wmsmm I'll To the Right Honourable GEORGE Lord PARKER, Vifcoiint of E W E L M E, &c. My Lord, TH O' I am fenfible this performance is little worthy of your Lordfhip's notice, and lefs of your patronage, yet the inducements for offering it to You in this pubHck manner, are too ftrong for me to refift, and will, I hope, fufficiently plead my excufe for doin^ it. The following account owes its origin to the ho- nour I had of attending You thro' the feveral places which furniflied the obfervations prefented in it ; which gives You an undoubted right to it on that fccre. But You have a yet better title to it from the many obfervations, and fome of them the moft confiderable in it, wliich are Your's, (if I have not made them too much mine, by a difadvantageous reprefentation -,) an acknowledgment which, in fome of the letters 1 iiad A 2 the 17 The D E D F C A T r O N. the honour to write to my Lord your Father from? abroad, containing feveral of the following particu- lars, I thought myfelf obliged to make to Him, and; muft here do it to the Publick. At the flime time it will be a proof of my not be- ing confcious of any mifreprefentations, that I ven- ture thus to lay thefe things before You, who were Yourfelf an eye-witnefs of moft of them : and vera- city. My Lord, in a traveller, will make amends for a great many other failings. May the fame good-nature, and fweetnefs of temper^ which fo greatly raifed the deHght and pleafure of our journey, appear at this time, in your candid accept- ance of this imperfect defcription of it ; which, tho' it had belonged to Your Lordfhip on no other account, would be moft certainly Yours on this ; that it is the only return I can make for Your many Favours, and, the only teftimony 1 can give of the fincere refpeft,. wherewith I am, My Lord, Your Lordfliip's moft obliged,, and moft obedient humble fervant,. ED. WRIGHT, THE PREFACE. WHEN firft I took the memorandums from whence the following obfervations were compiled ; and for fome years, after I had digefted them into the method in which they now ap- pear, I had no intention of troubling the publick with them ; having had as little thought of being an author, as any man (I believe) that ever became one. I had a great patron and good fi'iend, to whom I' diought myfclf obliged to fay fomething more of the -places I had vifited abroad, than barely that I had been there ; and for his entertainment it was, (if indeed any entertainment might arife from fuch a performance to fuch a tafte) that I fii-ft put my fcattered obfervations thus together. Now that, for reafons I need not trouble the reader with, they lie at the mercy of tlie publick, they muft e'en take their fate, as others have done be- fore them. There may doubtlefs be many improprieties of ex- preflion in an account of fo many different fubjects, and fuch a variety of partictilars ; there may likewife be fome errors ; but none (1 am fure) that are volun- tary. The PREFACE. •tary, nor any thing (that I am confcious of) taken iUghtly upon trull ; fome things 1 was obhgcd to re- ceive from the information of others ; tho' I never con- tented myfelf with that, where the fubjed fell within the compafs of my own oblei'v^ation ; I was cautious in receiving the former, and as esa^St as I could in making the latter. Wiien I. differ, in any material- circumftance, from thofe who have gone before me, I generally give my rcafons for it, where there is room for reafoning upon fuch difference : In matter's of mere .fac% fo Or not lb, where there is nothing more for it than one afTir- mation to (land againil another, the reader is poflefled of a right to belie%"e which he pleafes, till future coh- -current teftimonics may put the matter beyond, diijp^tq, •in favour of the one or the other. .;H: »>^ iiW^A^i Many things which occurred to my obfervation, and -were fet down in my papers, upon fearch, I found <lefcribed in other accounts, and have therefore flruck them out of mine: indeed, fome of my friends, who "had fccn them as they ' then ilood, have thought that I was too I'crupulous in that particular ; and at their inftancc I have fuffered fome paflages of that kind (which v,^crc not thrown away, and quite deflroyed) . to iland, which elle had gone with the others. .i.. l^- 1 have enlarged more upon the articles of paint- ing and i'eidpturc, than may polllbly be agreeable to tile tafte of every -reader, thofe parts (which wa'c indeed at lirll inferfed at the command of friends who have great 'power^oyer me, and afterwards by them appointed to Itaiid as 'part of the worI>) arc eafily pafied over, .l>y fucli The P R i: F A C E. luch as arc indifferent to thofc ilibjccls. And there arc a confiderable niunber oF paintings, that I h:\d taken notice of and fet down, wJiich I ha.ve'llill omitted, f(u- fear of being tedious on that head : tho' perhaps th.c general, and I had ahuoll faid, the falhionabie talle for thofe things, which now prevails, and feems too in a way of prevailing {lill more, rather than of declining among us, might well enough have juftified my inferting more than I have done. We may well look upon this talle as prevailing, when we fee fuch additions yearly made to the fine coUeftions of the nobility, and the principal gentlemen of England, in the way of painting ami fculpturc : and of this the Italian virtuofi, who make a trafEc of fuch things, are very fenfible, as they con- llantly find the fweets of it with regard to themfelven ; and the Romans in particular, who have fuch a notion of the Englifli ardour, in the acquifition of ctu-iofitics of every fort, that they have this expreflion frequent among them, *' Were our amphitheatre portable, the '* Englifli would carry it off." The defigns for the prints here given, were taken by myfelf immediately from the things reprefented, all except two or three. Tranfient opportunity, (fuch as a traveller is often forced to be content with), incommodi-- ous fituation, and fometimes very cold weather, were \\n- avoidable difadvantages, joined to a fmall Ihare of fkill : if, upon thefc accounts, they have lefs delicacy than 1 could wifh, I hope the affurance I can give my reader, of fidelity in the delivery of them, will make feme amends : and that affurance I could not have given, had I taken them upon truft from others -, as fome have done,. The PREFACE. flone, and that too perhaps at fccond or third hand. With regard to the engraving them, befides the choice of a very good hand, care has been Hkewife taken, as to a particular circumllance in the execution ; that- is, to have all the defigns reverfed upon the plates, which brings them off right in the prints ; fo that what {la- tucs and baiTo-relievoes are here prefented (as well as the views, Sec.) are feen as the things do them'^clves appear, which has not been obferved by Perrier, Sandrart, Bilchop, or the engavers of RofTi's edition of fiatues ; in which fome are right, and fome reverfed ; which leaves you at an uncertauity, a greater .inconvenienoy than if all were reverfed. I had, for the illuftration of what I fay concerning Caflini's Meridian Line at Bologna, made a little fketch of that part of the floor of the church, where the line lies, with only marks for the places of the pillars be- tween which it pafles ; but afterwards finding in Cafliui's book (in the poJTellion of a friend of mine, tho' very rare in England) a print, reprefenting a fection of the church itfelf, with the rays defciibed as pafiingthro^ the hole in the roof, as^ well as falhng upon the ^c Avhich is on the floor ; I took fo much of that print as ferved my purpofe ; wliich I thought might be more fa- -tisfacfldry to the reader, than the plaindlvctch above- liientione<l, which I had made, of the floor only. If, in fome parts of the following account, the reader fliould obferve a tliflerence of time ; fome things being taken notice of as -prefcnt, or frefli, which now are not 4h ; artd ^Mier things here - and' ; there .'int>2n"per£ed, which fhew a; la^er date ; he will -plea fe to^ coniider it 2, as The P 11 E F A C: E. as owing lo the dillancc of time, between the writing and the piiblieation: I have in many, I believe in moft places, altered the cxpreiTion from what it: was at firft, or by a note reconciled it to the prefent time ; fame few may pollibly have cfcapcd me. To the time of my drawmg up this account, is like- wife to be attributed the putting into it fome things, which I fliould hardly have put in now, as being what are become much more familiar to the Englilli at this time than they were then .- as the Italian comedy i the Venetian mafking, the Ridotto, and other entei^ tainments of the Venetian carnaval j however, as this book may fall into the hands of feveral, who have not been in the way of thofe kinds of entertainment here, any more than abroad, what I have faid concerning them is fuffered to fland. I have here and there intcrfpcrfed fome little flories, as they came in my way, relating to celebrated pieces of painting, and other arts ; which, befides the entertain- ment they may poffibly give, by a little variation of the fubje^rt, may alfo enable the reader to enter a little further into the performance, and into the temper and humour of the mailer too, than a bare defcription alone could have done. Some, of another kind, I could not forbear inferting, only as a tafte, or fpecimen, of multi- tudes of others of the like nature, current among them, which may ferve to fliew the ftrange fuperftitious ab- furdities, which are fwallowed in grofs by the common people, and fecm to be even a part of their religion : they arc laughed at indeed by the men of fcnfe, even there ; but as they have their elTccl upon the w^eaker a minds, The PREFACE. minds, in fubjugating them flill more to the power of the priefts ; the gentlemen are not only fuflfered, but encouraged to carry on the pious fraud, and catch the people with whatever bait will ferve beft to take them. The index I have diftributed into three parts ; one, of the general mifcellaneous fubje(5ls ; another, of mailers and their works, containing a lift of the paintings and modern fculptures ; a third, of the antiques : thereby endeavouring to make it as ferviceable as I could to every reader ; that each may the more readily find what he feeks for, without being embai-afled with what is not to his purpofe; In the general index under the title of each city, as Rome, (for example) Florence, Naples, and the reft, I have immediately fubjoined all the remarkable places, and things principally obfervable in fuch cit}', that they may lie all at once under view -, and have again put fuch things as are common to more cities than one (as amphitheatre, aqueduct, palace, pillar, Sec.) in their alphabetical place. I have here and there made ufe of a few words, as occurring moft naturally upon the occafion, which are familiar to thofe who are converfant in the fubjecTis I treat of, but may not be fo to other readers ; for which reafon I have for the moft part, immediately after fuch words, fet down the Engliih of them : fome, that I had cither omitted to tranflate at all, or had not been careful to tranilate the firft time tlie word was ufcd, I have ex- plained in a fliort vocabulary, which is placed immedi- ately after tliis preface. A S II O R T A SHORT" VOCABULARY; EXPLANATION of a few Words made ufe of in the following Account. ^^ Dmtranda. The initial word of the title of a book of prints ; reprefenting fevcral noted pieces of fculp- ture, in baflb-relievo, at Rome. The title more at large is thus : Admiranda Romanarum Antiquitatum ac vetcris Sculpturce Vejligia, Anaglyphico opcre elabo- rata — a Petro Sai\cti Bartolo delineata, incijli '■^Notis Jo. Petri Bellorii illujlrata. JLdita a Joanne Jacobo de Rubeis. Rejlittdt, mixk, D6- MiNicus DE Rubeis mdcxciii. The book is commonly called by the fingle word Admiranda^ which I have accordingly made ufe of. Alto 1 Bajfo ^Relicoo. Are pieces of fculpture, where the figures Mezzo J rife, in fevcral degrees of projedlion, from the flat of the ftone ; as the figures in the imprefTion of a feal do from the field, or fiat part of the wax. Where they rife very high, 'tis called Alto-relievo ; where they rife but little, 'tis called Ballb-relievo 3 and the mean between them is Mezzo-relievo. a 2 Aai- A VOCABULARY. At/itiide. The acHiion or pofture of a figure. Caldano. A vefiel of filver, or other metal, not unhke the cifterns ufed at fide-tables : wherein they burn char- coal in the middle of the rooms, inftead of having fires in chimneys. Cameo. Heads moft commonly, now and then whole figures, cut baffo-relievo way, in fome curious ftone, which is fometimes only of one colour ; but often the feveral ftrata or layers are of different colours ; the ground or field of one colour, the face of an- other, the hair and beard, &c. of a third : fome- times feveral faces rife (as in the William and Mary coins) from the fame field, each of different com- plexions. €huiro Ofcuro. Sometimes underflood of light and fhadow in a pidure ; as when we fay. Here is a good Chiaro Ofcuro, 'tis the fame as to fay. The lights and fha-.. dows are well difpofed in this piece. Sometimes it is applied to a pidture done only in two colours, to diflinguifli it from one painted in all its natural colours. I>tjiemper. A term ufed with us for painting in water-colours, when 'tis not on velum, &c. nor in frefco [fee Fre/co], but upon canvas, &c. The French call it detrempe; the Italians, dijievipera, ox Jlempera ; alfo giiazzo. Facade. The front of a building. Fcde. Properly, faith. It is alfo the word ufed for a bill of health ; i. e. a teftimonial, required to be pro- duced at the gates of cities, &c. in times of infec- tion, in order to your admittance into them. Frefco, A VOCABULARY. Frcfco. Frefli. It is ufed to dcfcribe painting in water- colours upon frefli plafter, i. e. before the plaftcr is quite dry. It is alfo ufed to exprefs the frefli air, in the cool of the evening, ike. Applied alfo to cooling liquors, as lemonade, &c. GieJJb, A fort of plaflier, much the fame as what we call Plafler of Paris, wherewith they cafl: figures, &c. xiu Guazzo. See D/Jlcmpcr, Intaglio. A head, or whole figure, &c. cut hollow, in any fine llone, in the nature of a feal. Madonna ^ Bambino, The Blcfl'ed Virgin and the Child. Noli we tangere. The ufual term in Italy for the reprefenta- tion in painting of our Saviour appearing after his refurredion to Mary Magdalen 3 when he faid to her, " Touch me not." Pieta. The primary acceptation of the word is pity : It is fometimes ufed to fignify an hofpital, wherein are received foundlings, or other infants. It is alfo a term ufed for the reprefentation in painting of a dead Chrifl:, with the Maries, &c. weeping over him. Portico. Properly a porch ; fometimes applied to a building more extended, by way of gallery, or cloifter. Relievo. See Alto, &c. Ritratto. The fame as portrait ; a pidture, or fculpture, done by the life. Sarcophagus. Acheft,or cofiin, of marble; generally adorned with bafl"o-rclievoes ; wherein they did antiently put dead bodies, when they did not burn them. It is derived 1 fron-j A V O C A B U L A R Y. from two Greek words, which ilgnrify eating [or con- fuming of] flefh. 'Terra Cotta. Earth [or clay] burnt. Models for new works in marble, and copies after the antique, are generally made in clay j which is wrought while it is foft, and afterwards burnt in a furnace, to harden it. Tribuna. A term u'ed for a building, whofe area or plan is femicircuiar, as the fedtion of a cupola, 5cc. Some- times it is applied to a building quite round, or fuch as confifts of many fides and angles (and by that means inclining to a round), as the famous room within the great duke's gallery at Florence, which is mofl generally known by the name of Tribuna, SOME « n 11 n 11 ?^^^?fs^ $1 n ^^ r „i ^ « f"^ SS 1*""^ ^^ ff^A-^r^ feg ?«-^ §^ i«--*i ^ « 5^ SS M IS ^^-^«L>^ ft kj«l g^ k_^ g SOME OBSERVATIONS FRANCE, ITALY, &c. AFTER waiting at Dover four days for a wind, we at laft found a favourable one, that brought us in five hours from thence to Calais, March -t't, ijra-. As I did but juft pafs thro' France, in my jour- ney, (o I had not opportunity to make any confiderable ob- fervations on that country. I fliall offer fuch occafional ones as occurr'd in my way. The ordinary women at Calais made a very odd appear- ance, with a fort of defence from cold they had about their necks : 'twas of feme Hiaggy materials, feem'd a foot diameter in the thickeft part, and look'd like a flieeplaid acrofs a but- cher's (houlders. Afterwards at Abbeville, I found the fame ornament wore in another manner, the thickeft part on the top B of ABBEVILLE. of their head, the reft coming down over their ears, like feme monftrousill-fhap'd peruque : a mantle hangs from it behind : a great muff (which is worn univerfally, even by the meaneft of the people) fecures their hands, and wooden flioes their feet. By all this armour againft cold, I could almoft have fancied my felf in Iceland, rather than in France : but they have reafon for what they do : for, however hot their fummers may be, their v/inters are certainly not lefs cold ; their winds thin and piercing, againfl which deaths are hardly a defence. All along from Calais there appear'd a general air of poverty, till we came to the place laft fpoke of [Abbeville] ; where the meaner people are kept from idlenefs and want, by means of a great woollen manufadlure, which employs and fupports a vaft number of them. The broad cloth they make, is remitted from thence to Rome, and other parts of Italy, and even to England, as they told us : they work chiefly Spanifli wool. The work is all conduced by Mr. Vanrobais and his nephew. His houfe is very magnificent. The parterres before it, adorn'd with ftatues, &c. and little cannons on a terrace juft before the houfe. The wings behind the houfs f which feem'd about fifty yards long) are employ 'din themanu- failure. There are galleries in feveral ftories : in one are men fhearing off the nap, in another women and girls picking off the knots, &c. with nippers : in others the looms, a hundred and one in thofe wings, befides what are in the town : there were forty two in one gallery : in another the carders, men on one fide of the gallery, women on the other ; in an- , other the finifliers, laying the nap with brufties; the fcowrers below. Where the looms are, the gallery is divided by a row of pillars, and in each of the intervals between the pillars are plac'd two wheels and two reels, for ordering the wool and yarn. The fpinning is all done within the compafs of the town. He employs in his houfe, and in the town, fix thou- fand five hundred people. Other out-wings there arc, employ- ed in dying, and other parts of the work. Frames regularly rang'd along the fides, which look like thofe for efpaliers, are for drying the cloth : all plac'd fo well and regular, that no- thing of that great bufinefs is off:nfive, but the ftrudure of all the offices tends to ornament. The fituation is very advanta- B E A U V AI S. advantageous, jufl: by the river-lide, [the Somme*] where velTels come up to the very gates. I obferv'd nothing confide- rable in the town itfelf. The mod: agreeable part of it is a fquare, [La Place] where there is aview of four or five churches all lying near together. The fortifications about the town feem to have been good, and are fHll in a tolerable condition. We pafs'd over five draw-bridges before we entcr'd the town. At Montreuil, (before we came to Abbeville) I obferved houfes and churches built all of chalk. In the villages, as we went along, we frequently faw a con- fiderablc length of poor houfes without ever a window ; and the people fare very hard; yet are gay and fprightly. In one of the inns we were ferv'd by a poor fellow, who frisk'd about with all the vivacity imaginable : he told us he had Iluit f/2- fans, ^ point d' Argent y eight children, and no money: I ask'd him, what he meant to do with them all ? Oh, 'Tons pour le Rot: all for the king. For, notwithftanding the great tyranny they labour under, the glory of their Grand Monarque is their perpetual theme. At Beauvals, I faw two fine churches; they are of what we call Gothic architecture, but beautiful in their way, and very well adorn'd. One dedicated to St. Stephen \_AuguJlines\ the other to St. Peter [Chanoins Seculairs]. In the former are colour'd glafs windows very well worth feeing. Sculptures and bas-reliefs good, (at leaft what I then thought fo) both within the church and without, and a fine fleeple , the fcul- pturcs better than the paintings. Great piles of ituUs and bones furrounded the church, clofe up along its walls, with monitory infcriptions. The choir of St. Peter's is remark- ably fine; faid to be the beft in France. This church, and (I think) the other were built by the Engliih, when mafters of • Our chronicles record, among other anions of our valiant king Edward the third, his leading his forces himfclf thro' a fordable part of this river, againft Godmor du Foy, a general of the French king, who was ported on the other fide with looo horfe and 6000 foot to hinder his paflage : " But Edward (whom as oblladcs made impetuous, " fo notliing could difmay) enters himfelf into the ford, crying. He that loves me, let " him follow me ; as one that was rcfolved either to pafs or die." The pafTage won, he defeated du Foy, and kiU'd 2000 of his men. This was by way of prelude to the great battle of Creflie. B 2 France ; PARIS. France; as was likewife the Notre Dame in Paris, and feveral other churches. Here are fome good fculptures, and better paintings than in the other. Some of them fet in frames of marble. All the entrance into the choir is adorn'd with marble; with angels fupporting tables, &c. on each fide. About Beauvais were the firft vineyards I faw. The abbey of St. Dennis, within two leagues of Paris, is not only very fine it felf, but has a treafure immenfely rich. This is the burial-place of the French kings, whofe tombs they fhew. That of the late king [Louis XIV.] is cover'd with a pall, a lamp continually burning by it, and is fo to continue, till the prefent king be dead too. For about ten leagues before we arriv'd at Paris, the roads were very pleafant, with rows of trees planted on each fide the way. PARIS. THE fhort time I ftald at Paris allovv'd me opportunity of making but very few of the remarks which might have been made in fo great and fine a city, and the royal palaces adja- cent. And my expedlation of returning that way, made me lefs follicitous about it, than otherwife I fLould have been: but that expedlation was fruftrated by the plague breaking out in France while we were in Italy. The Porte St. Denis, a great gate at the entrance into Paris, with infcriptions, LuDovico Magno, Sec. and bas- reliefs defcribing his vidories, give a grand idea of that city. The fireets are narrow, and the houfes high, each perhaps con- tributing to make the other appear more fo. There are fome publick fquares, which they call Places, [in Italy, Piazze] which are well built, as the Place Roiale, des Vi&oircs, dc Vendome, &c. In each of thcfe are large ftatues, fome of their kings ; that in the Place des Vi5loires of Louis XIV. is gilt, with four flaves in copper, one at each corner of the pedeftal, which I thought much better than the principal figure: that feem'd too much embarrafs'd with fluttering drapery, and a vi- ftory that perfedly overwhelms the monarch. That in the Place Roiale is equeftral, of Louis XIII. There is another large PARIS. large one equeftral, of Henry IV. on the Pont Nciif. The fountaii*-of the Samaritan on that bridge, (lb called from the figures of our Saviour and the Samaritan woman, which adorn it) is much cried up, and is indeed pretty enough ; as are its chimes, mov'd by the water, which go every thi-ee hour's. But the finefl: fountain, and the fineft thing in its kind of any in Paris is the Fontaine des Nymphes, in the Rue St. Denis, a very good piece of architedlure, and adorn'd with bas-reliefs of nymphs, &c. of a very good tafle. This fountain is not of lefs ufe, than ornament to the city, which feems to be but ill-water'd ; for, hither the people come with their veflels for water, and cry it about the flreets, as they did here in London in the time of the great froft, and with a difmal tone they utter it. The river Seine, which runs thro' the city, is very muddy, and good for few ufcs ; and not made clearer by the numbers of walher- women, who take their ftation in boats, a row of which is planted jufl under one of the king's palaces. The river abounds much incai-ps, which the people carry about the flreets, alive, in water. The only finilli'd royal palace 1 faw, and what feemed to me the bell built, was that of the Luxemburg : the Louvre and Thuilleries are neither of them finish 'dj the former indeed al- moll ruinated ; the front of it is very fine, but fcen to difadvan- tage, by reafon of the n^rrownefs of the ftreet it (lands in.. The gardens of the Thuilleries are by fome eflecm'd the beft difpos'd of any in France, as gardens ; for, thofe of Verfailles they will have to be rather a coun try finely adorn'd . I faw them at the worft, it being then the beginning of March. They ihew'd me a fmall part enclos'd ; with a mall, &e. for the king to play in. 1 had the honour to fee his majelly twice janda very fine youth he was ; nor wanted any advantages (to be fure) to fet off his natural graces. The ar-chitcfture of the Luxemburg is Tufcanj and the pil- krs are fo excefllvely charged with the Ruftic, that they look'd like a heap of vaftChelhire-cheefes.or rathermill-llonesfet one upon another. I there faw the celebrated gallery of Rubens, fo well known by the prints : the paintings are fome of them much damag'd by wet ; but fuch as are preferv'd, fliew a great beauty of colouring, by which that great mafier fodiflinguiflied him- PARIS. himrelf; not that they were all wholly perform'd by his own hand ; Vandyke, and others, his principal difciples, having confiderablyairiflcd : and well might one fuppofe fome afli- fiance, when the whole w^s performed in two years time ; as monfieur Audran, an excellent engraver, and a very obliging perlbn, who rtiew'd me the palace, told me : fome of the plates were engraved by him. There is a fine pidlure of Guido in the fame palace, reprefenting David and Goliah. In the palace of the Thuilleries, I faw the famous pidiure of Le Briin, Darius's tent, of which we have fo many reprefen- tations in England : there is a fine expreffion in the counte- nances ; the draperies and ornaments are beautiful ; the colour- ing is warm and harmonious, but fomewhat heavy, wanting the tranfparency we fee in the Italian paintings : 'tis no great advantage to it, particularly in that refpefl, to have a fine pic- ture of Paolo Veronefe juft oppofite to it: 'tis a laft fupper. The Battles of Alexander I did not fee. In the Palais Roial, where the late duke regent then lived, I faw the Seven Sacraments of Nicola Pouflin, and other works of that mafter : there is another fett of them at Rome, of a diflerent defign, in the palace of Cavalier Pozzo. Amonftrous ftone-figurc of St. Chriftopher in the church of Notre Dame, rather amazes than pleafesj 'tis about ten yards in height. The advocates in Paris have their trains born up : I faw feveral of them going along : and I was told that their wives have the fame privilege. If the lawyers there have fuch a mark of efl:eem, it feems to be quite otherwife with the phyfi- cians, who (generally fpeaking) are not elleemed company for gentlemen : however the particular merit of fome may raife them above their brethren, this I was informed to be the cafe of the generality of the faculty. They are much upon the fame footing in Italy, if not worfe. There were two remarkable executions in Paris, while I was there; one was of two villains burnt alive, for their vile ufage of a poor prieft, of which he died. They flea'd the top of his head, where 'twas fliav'd for his orders, alfo the ends of his thumb and two fingers, which were confecrated for touching the hofl; burnt the bottoms of his feet, made him blafpheme 5 God, PARIS. A U X E R R E. God, and further treated him in a mofl: barbarous manner. They had pitch'd rtiirts put on them, and were then tied down to faggots, which wore fet on fire. The prieft had been found ffrolling in the flrcets at an unfeafonable hour, and put into a round-houfej or Tome fuch place, in the fame room with thefe villains, who, having got a priell to 'em, thought fit to divert themfelves with him in the inhuman way above-men- tion'd. The other execution was of count Horn and his accomplice, a marquis, broke upon the wheel, for robbing a flock-jobber in the Quinquempoix (their exchange-alley, and murdering him. The former is faid to have been related to fome of the chief fovereigns in Europe ; and when 'twas urg'd by fome, who follicited the regent for his pardon, or at leafl a change of the fentence, that it wou'd not look well that a perfon fo highly allied, fhou'd fufFer fo ignominious a death ; he anfwer'd, That the fliame and the difgrace lay in the crime, not in the punifliment, and that the former cou'd only be purged by the latter: fo order'd immediate execution. From Paris I went up the Seine in the Coche d'Eau to Auxerre, in the dukedom of Burgundy. When we arriv'd within two leagues of that place, we landed to take a view of the bifliop of Auxerre's country-feat, and were tempted, by the pleafing appearance of the vineyards, to take a walk through them to the city, and left the Coche d'Eau to follow with our baggage. The city has but a poor appearance ^ there arc fome good churches, but the houfes are mean ; the wine there is excellent, and the ftreets abominably pav'd : a warning not to be too free with the former. From hence I went by land to Chalons : but made no flay in any place. Not far from Chanfan, a fmall town, we pafs'd thro' a mofl pleafant vale, where ftreams ran ifTuing from feveral fources in the fide of a mountain, and lower down formed a fmall river by the village of Ponce. Here we heard wolves howling in the woods, which in hard win- ters fally out ; not much to the plcafure of the traveller. Further on, we pafs'd along a perfcd labyrinth of winding vales, which brought us to a little town, which itfclf is call'd the DIJON. CHALONS. LIONS. the Vale de SoiJJons, a pleafant brook running all along through the town. This is leven miles ftiort of Dijon, a parlia- ment city, under whofe walls we pafs'd, but had not time to fee it. On this road we faw a wedding cavalcade ; Mrs. Bride, drefs'd all in white, riding aftride among about thirty horfe- men ; and herfelf the only female in the company. At Chaigny, a fmall town further on, I faw an inftance of that well-plac'd charity, the redemption of flaves from Algiers, &c. there were forty-eight in the company : the fa- thers of Redemption were along with them. They told me there was not one Frenchman [that was a Roman catholick] left behind J but great numbers of Chriftians of other nations, and among them abundance of Englifli. But his Britifli ma- jefty has fhewn, that 'tis not peculiar to the French, or Roman catholicks, to commiferate the fufferings of captives, and re- deem them from their flavery. From Chalons, (which is a fmall city of Burgundy) to Lions, I went down the Saon ; it happen'd to be much overflown after fome violent rains; and our vefTel having mifs'd the courfe of the river, we found our felves fairly fet down in the middle of a meadow ; but our pilot foon retriev'd his er- ror, and brought us into the current again. As we came near Lions, we had a view of feveral plea- fant country-feats, and vineyards along the banks. But as to the former, France feems to be no-way fo full of them as England ; I fcarce faw any in my land-paffage : the few that are, lie generally near the great cities, where the quality re- fide ; a (hort and eafy retreat for them. LIONS. LIONS is a large and fine city ; the river running thro' the m'ddle of it, as the Seine does through Paris. Here the Rhone falls into the Saon, and by this conjundlion, as by a fort of marriage, the latter lofes its name ; and the former gives name to the whole, till it difcharges itfelf into the Me- ditterrancan. There LIONS. There are in this city fcveral good churches : thole of the Jefuits and Dominicans are richly adorn'd witli marble; and that of the Francifcans is well llor'd with pidiires. But nei- ther the ftru(flure nor ornaments of thcfe churches, nor of any that I favv in France, are to be compared with thofe in Italy. The chief church in Lions, is that of St. John : the canons of this church are counts. Here I favv the famous clock fo much talk'd of: I came at the befl: time for feeing it, which is twelve a-clock ; at which time the figures move. An an- gel opens a little door, and difcovers the Bleflcd Virgin ; a figure of GOD the Father defcends to her, and immediately a brazen cock crows a-top. There are a great rhany other movements, reprefenting the celeftial motions, 6cc. which I had not time to obfervc. I cannot fay that what I cou'd fee of it anfwer'd my expedlations, confidering the great talk they make of itj but, 'tis an old piece of work, and made at a time when fine works of that kind were not fo frequent as they are now; however, they ftill endeavour to continue the efteem it might once have juftly had. There are fome very handfome houfeS of the nobility. Sec. but thofe of the citizens have a difagreeable look, by reafon there is no glafs in the windows, but inftead thereof only oil'd paper, which is often tatter'd and torn. The like is alfo frequent in Italy. Generally at the corners of flreets, and in other publick places, there are ftatues of the Blefi^cd Virgin, and our Saviour, and fome of them I obferv'd not ill ones. At the entrance into the archbiiliop's palace, the Hotel of 1, the Intendant, and of all the chief magillrates, there is placed a tall and very ftrait fir [not growing], like the maft of a fhip ; but a fmall brufli of the branches is left a-top. About the middle of the body are hung the arms of the perfon : 'tis to diftinguifli thofe from the common houfes. The height and flraitnefs of the tree, is perhaps intended to point out the eminence and uprightnefs of the perfon. If the city of Lions had not a Sanazarius to celebrate her praifes, fhe feems to have had as good a friend, tho' a worfe poet; as will appear by the following epigram writ in letters of gold, over the great gate of the Hote/ de Ville, which is C a 10 LIONS. a noble ftrudture. I have fince been told it was written by one of the Scaligers. • Rhone. Flumtneis * Rhodanus qiuifefiigat incitus imdlsy t Saon. ^Mq; ptgro dubit-at f.iimine mltis '\ Arar, Liigdiinum jacet, antiquo ?ioviis or bis in or be, Liigdiinumq ; iietus orbis in orbe noiio. ^lod nolis, alibi queer as, hu queer e quod optes, Aut liic, ant nujquam, sincere vota potes. Lugdimi, quodciinq ; potejl dare mundus, habebis, Plura petas, hcec urbs & tibi plura dabit. Which may be thus tranflated : Where Rhone impetuous rolls, and where the flow And gentle Saon with milder ftream does flow. There Lions (lands; where we united find What fcatter'd thro' the world delights the mind j And if you ftill feek more with greedy eye, Lions can ev'n more wonders fl:ill fupply. The city of Lions has two pieces of antiquity which arc much valu'd : the firfl: is the fpeech of Claudius in the fe- nate, in favour of the people of Lions, that they {hould be made a Roman colony, and come into the fenate ; 'tis en- grav'd on a brafs plate, and preferv'd in the Hotel de Ville [or town-houfe] jufl: mention'd. Claudius was a native of Lions, which had thence the name of Copia ; being call'd Colonia Claudia Copia Augujla Lvgdunenfis. Copia, as the place of his nativity, and as it were his nurfe ; in allufion to the horn of the goat [or of Achelous, according to fome] that nourifli'd Jupiter ; Cornucopia. The fpeech is printed by Mr. Spon, and others. The other is an ancient altar, erefled on occafion of a Tau- ribolium. The Tauriboles were a facrifice begun late in the pagan fuperfl:ition, and thence continued to the lafl: of it: they were made to Cybele Magna Mater ; and were infliituted as a fort of baptifm of blood, in oppofltion (as is fuppos'd) to the baptifm of the chrifl:ians. The firfl: account of them is given by Julius Firmlcus Ma- ternus, in his book de enoribus prophanarwn rdigionum, and LIONS. 11 and afterwards by Dalenius ; alfo very particularly, as to the circumftances of the ceremony, by Prudcntius, in Martyre Roatnano. The manner of the Tauribole, as given by Prudentius, was thus : they made a fort of a pit, into which the prieft de- fcended, adorn'd with a crown of gold, and a fillc veft- ment j over the pit were plac'd boards, not join'd clofc, and with holes likewifc bor'd through them. Then they brought a great bull, adorn'd with flowers, and feftoons a- bout his horns, and his forehead gilt : then they cut his throat, [peBus facrato dividunt 'venabiilo\ and the hot blood ran down thro' the pierc'd boards, and rain'd a fliower upon the prieft, who ftood under, and receiv'd the blood on his head, and all over him. Not content with this, he turns up his face to receive it on his cheeks, nofe, lips, his very eyes, and into his ears. He opens his mouth, and moiftens his tongue with it, till well wafh'd infide and outfide, he is become all over blood. The other priefts take the now bloodlefs vidlim off the boards ; then out comes the high-prieft, (for fuch he is now become") like a drown'd rat, with his clothes and perfon all drunk with blood. The people at a diftance falute and adore the horrid fpedacle, not daring to approach him, whom they look upon now as wafh'd and fandlified. Befides the Tauribolcs, there were alfo Crioboles and ^gi- boles, of rams and goats. Thefe facrifices were perform'd by cities and provinces. Pro Salute Imperatoris, ^c. and by private people, for their own profperity. That at Lions is. Pro Salute Imp. Ccrf. I'iti JElii Ha- driatii Aut. Aug. Pit, pat. pat rice, liber orumq; ejus, & Jia- tus colonia Lugdiinenfis. The altar, or memorial-llone of this Tauribolium was found at Lions, Anno 1705- In the middle of the infcription is a bull's head, adorn'd with a ftring of pearl, or what makes fuch an appearance ; the ends hanging down behind the ears. On one fide of the ftone is a ram's head, adorn'd as the bull's j and on the other, a fword or knife, of a particular figure [the facratum vcnabuluni], with an infcription, Cujus McfonySliumfaBurn ejl 5 Idus De~ C 2 cembris -, LIONS. VIENNE. ccmbris; which (hews that the ceremony was perform'd at mid- night. By the ram's head it appears there was a CrioboJium join'd with the Tauribolium, which was done Ibmetimes. Vi- de apud Montfaiicon the figure of all, with a full account of the whole. This city was once poflefs'd of another piece of antiquity of extraordinary value, if it were really the thing they aflert it to be, a votive buckler in honour of Scipio's continence ; loft in the Rhone, at his return from Spain, and found in the year 1656. 'Tis now in the French king's cabinet. Near the entrance into the Hotel de Fille, is the Abbaie Roiale, all noble ladies ; the archbifhop of Lion's fifter, daugh- ter to the Marshal de Villeroy, was the lady abbefs, when I was there. There is a handfome fquare in this city, call'd La Place de Louis le Grand., where there were fome fine new houfes then building, with large fculptures of trophies and other ornaments. In the middle is a large equeftral ftatue of Louis XIV. in copper, on a pedeftal of white marble. On one fide are walks, after the manner of the mall in St. James's park ; but not fo fine, nor fo well kept. The [then] new efpoufed princefs of Modena, daughter to the duke regent of France, came to Lions while I was there, in her way to Italy. I faw her highnefs at the play, at- tended by the archbifhop (who fat in the box, with her), to- gether with the Intendant, and two or three of the chief ladies of the city. Her perfon was graceful, and her face much finer, than to need that addition of art, without which the French ladies (efpecially thofe of the firft quality) don't look upon themfelves to be dreft. Leaving Lions, I pafs'd through Vienne, an archbi- (hoprick, and once a Roman colony, called by Claudius, in his fpeech for thofe of Lions, Ornatijima colonia valen- tijjimaq ; Vienyienjiiim : but at prefent it makes but a poor fi- gure. Not far from hence is made the Cote rote wine. This name is not given it, as being taken from the roajled fide, in oppofi- tion to the other fide of the fame hill, as fome have formerly told T E I N. told me here in England ; nor, as others, that 'tis made of grapes pick'd from the moil funny-fide of the vine i but 'tis thus : there are two hills lying one on each fide the road, which my fellow-travellers flievved me, as we went along : one lies more advantageoufly to the fun, than the other ; and 'tis that which they call the CoU rote. Between S. Vallier and Tein they fhew'd me what they call the Chateau de Pilate, where they fay he died in baniih- ment j but that account is look'd upon as fabulous. Near Tein is the famous hill, whence the Hermitage wine comes, fo call'd from a hermit's cell, which they fliew'd me on the top of it. The hill is but fmall, and much un- likely to afford fuch a quantity of wine as goes by that name. We met with but poor ftuff at Tein, and there they told us that the bulk of the \intage was engrofs'd for the king's cel- lars, and thofe of the chief quality; unlefs, for the benefit of the clergy, fome were by-the-by Ilipt into a Jefuit's convent. Soon after we left Tein, we pafs'd over the river Lifeirre, and another after, called Drum ; the latter is efteem'd at fome times the worft for paflage in all France, but well enough when we pafs'd it. Here we had a fine and pleafant view of fome high mountains in Dauphine. At Bouleine, on a Meagre-day, we were ferv'd with a fri- caflee of frogs. This town is under the pope. A LITTLE before we came to Bouleine, we left Dauphine, and enter'd Provence. In the afternoon we pafs'd through the town and principality of Orange. Being confin'd to the Diligence, I here regretted the not obfcrving fome fine re- mains of antiquity, one of which I got a tranfient fight of, juft before we enter'd the town. I had fome comfort in the hopes of our returning that way -, but Orange was in no in- viting condition at our return. The Diligence, a great coach that holds eight perfons, is a machine that has not its name for nothing ; what it wants in quicknefs, it makes up in afliduity ; though by the help of eight ,4 AVIGNON. AIX. MARSEILLES. eight mules which drew it, we fometimes went a brifk pace too; having pafs'd from Lions to Marfeilles, which they call a hundred leagues, in three days and a half. The walls of Avignon [fubje6l to the pope], where we lay, are faid to be the finefl in Europe, whatever they are for ftrength ; but 'twas almoft night when we came there, and not day when we left the townj fo that much was not to be feen. There is on one fide a very fleep rock towards the Rhone. The day following we enter'd France again; for they do not call fuch parts France, as are not under the French king. A LITTLE before this, we pafs'd over the river Durance, near Bonpas, a ftream more rapid than the Rhone itfelf. We pafs'd by Aix, a parliament town, which they told me is a very beautiful one; but going only through the fuburbs, I could fee but little of it. The road from Lions to Marfeilles, efpecially the two firft days, did abundantly make amends for the ill ones I met with elfevvhere. We drove over a perfe(fl gravel walk, which in fome places, for miles together, was as ftraight as a line. In the vineyards on each fide, were flandards of apricot and peach-trees, then in full blolTom : groves fometimes of wal- nut, almond, mulberry, and olive-trees. The whole coun- try now appear'd in a pleafing bloom ; and even the face of the feafon, all of a fudden chang'd from cold bleak winds (fharper than in England) and violent rains, through aperfedl alteration of climate, to a delightful warmth. MARSEILLES. THE fituation of Marfeilles is moft agreeable. On one fide lies the Mediterranean ; on the other, 'tis en- compafs'd with pleafant hills, whofe fkirts are beftrew'd, as it were, with pretty houfes, which they call Ballides ; they are little villa's [or country-feats] of the merchants, and o- thers in Marfeilles, whofe hot fituation, having a fouth fun refledlcd from the fea upon the city, on one fide, and from 5 a MARSEILLES. ts a circular range of hills, on the other, itfelf as it were in the focus, will pretty well admit of a cool retreat in the fum- mer-timc. Of thefe Baftides they reckon eight thoufand in about nine miles compafs. The town itfelf is very pleafjnt ; the chief ftreets exadlly flrait; and the houfes well built. The principal ftreet, which is call'd the Courfe (the rendezvous of company in fummer evenings) is adorn'd with a double row of trees, with feats under them, and fountains at convenient diftances. The Hotel de Villc is a fine buildin?;, and the front adorn'd with good fculpture by Monfieur Puget, a very celebrated artift. The great room above is hung round the upper part with the pidiures of their confuls. On one fide, is a large hi- ftory-piece of the young king [Louis XV.] brought by Nep- tune on a large fliell drawn by fea-horfes, accompanied by Tritons, &c. and condudled by Mercury to Marfeiiles ; where, on the rtiore, are the magiftrates of the city ready to receive him : a little angel, or Genius, puts a crown on the king's head. At the upper end of the room, is the late King [Louis XIV.] received by the city of Marfeilles, reprefented by a woman in v.'hite and blue drapery, on her knees, prefenting the arms of the city, which are of the fame colours [field ar- gent, a crofs formee azure *.] Under it is writ, as follows : IMMORTALI GLORIiE LUDOVICI MAGNI REGIS CHRISTIANISSIMI POPULI SUI ET TOTIUS ORBIS DELTCIARUM SEMPER AUGUSTI ATQj UBIQj VICTORIS OMNIUM MASSHJENSIUM NOMINE iETERNI OBSEQUII MONUMENTUM HOC DICARUNT MATT: FABRE l£c CONSULES ET ANGELUS TIMON ASSESSOR. IN AMORIS, FIDEI, ET VENKRATIONIS ARGUMENTUM. ANNO SALUTIS. M.DC.XCVI. • This I took for granted to be the arms of Marfeilles, being prefented by a figure which reprefents that city ; and do ftiil believe them to be fo, at this day ; tho' Mr. Dacier, in his Annot. to Horace, Epift. 15. fays, the ancient arms of Marfeilles, as thofe of Velia, which cities were both built by the Phocians in the time of Servius Tullius, [Juftin fays, Tarquin] were a lion : lor that a lion was the arms of the Pho- cianf . But the arms of Marfeilles, Unce the times of chrjftianity, might very likely be chang'd from a lion to a crofs. This ,6 MARSEILLES. This is a moft profound compliment made by the people of Marfeilles, with the ftrongeft profeffions of " love, fealty, and ♦' veneration, to Lewis the Great, the delight of his own peo- " pie, and of the whole world, always auguft, and every where " conqueror." Blenheim field yet untried, elfe fure the poet had been more modeft. The harbour is efteem'd a very fafe and commodious one, tho' not very large ; and here are kept the king's gallies ; which ♦ Louis XIV. in the late king's* time were forty at leafl: in number; fincethen very much rcduc'd, now to only twenty. The gallies are filled with flaves, about 270 in each. In the day-time fome of thefe are let out chain'd, two, or fometimes three together, to fetch in frefli water and other things for the ufe of the refl. Such as have been brought up to manufadures, are chain'd in little huts, three or four toge- ther in a hut, all along the fide of the port, where they work at their feveral trades. Moft of them are notorious offenders, of their own nation, whom they ufe the moft feverely. The Turks, and others taken in war, are treated much more gently ; having only a fmall fetter about one ancle : firft, as being only prifoners of war ; and this to encourage thole of their nations to ufe the French flaves among them in like manner : and in the next place, for that thro' want of language, and the re- motenefs of their country, there is lefs danger of their efcape. Thefe go about felling coffee : and one, not long before I was there, who kept a fort of coffeehoufe, got enough to pay his ranfom. The others are moftly bare-foot and bare- legg'd, and have fcarce any clothes. To lee them (at fuch times as they are not let out) all crowded together, and chain'd down in the gallies, and lb loaded with irons, with fuch mifery and an- guilh in their countenances, is a fhocking fight to an Englifh- inan, and what would move the utmoft pity, even though you are told that fome of their crimes were luc.h as deferv'd death. I afk'd feveral of the French flaves, for what offence they were put aboard thofe gallies i the general anfwer was, Defer- tion. Which put me in mind of an old ftory of the duke of Offiina, who going to releafe fome galley-flaves at Barcelona, afk'd feveral of them, what their offences were. Every one excus'd himfelf J one was put in out of malice, another by bri- bery MARSEILLES. 17 bery of the judge; but all unjuflly, except one little fturdy black man, who fairly own'd his offence, that he wanted money, and had taken a purfe to keep him from Carving. The duke, with alittl;: (laffhe had in his hand, gave him two or three blows on the flioulders, faying, *' you rogue, what do •' you among fo many honeil innocent men r get you gone out " of their company." So he was freed; and the reft remained to tug at the oar. I was on board the royal galley, which was finely adorn'd for the princefs of Modena, and which went, attended with others, to receive her highnefs at Antibes. I was told by one of the flaves that they have not room to lie down a- nights, but reft as they can, fitting on their benches, where each ischain'd in his place, with their elbows (as hedefcrib'd it to mej refting on their knees, and their hands fupporting their chin. But 'tis time to leave a fubjed that affords fo little pleafure. The cathedral church is faid to have been a temple of Diana : I believe much unlike that of Ephefus, according to its prefent appearance. The church of St. I'iclor, they fay, was the firfl: chriftian church in France. On the outfide of an old little chapel, ftanding by itfelf in another part, I found this infcription. Ce lieu monftre on jadis Magdakin a jettc les premiers fondcmens de noire re- ligion, tirant les Marfellois de I'injidelite, leur pref^ant de yefiis, fa croix ZS Jd pajjion. " This place flicws where " Magdalen formerly laid the firft foundations of our reli- " gion, drawing the people of Marfeilles from their infidelity, " by preaching to them of Jefus, his crofs, and his pafiion." And when we left Marfeilles, and had coaficd a little ea(t- ward, they fhew'd me from the fliip fome defcrt mountains, where they fay fhe fpent the remainder of her days in foli- tude and devotion. The inhabitants glory much in the antiquity of their city, and in the ftrenuous oppofiticn it made to Julius Cffifar before it was taken. It is certainly very ancient, and, according to Jufl;in, of a Greek origin ; v.ho fays, that fome Phocians, in the time of Tarquin, came from Afia, and made a league with the Romans : that they weiit on, and ca.me in Sinum D Gal- St. rem O. GalHcum, oji'io Rhodani amnis: that being taken with the pleafantnefs of the place, they built Maflilia there ; and that from thefe Phocians, the [then] barbarous Gauls learnt a more elegant manner of living, agriculture, and walling of their cities, the planting of olives, and ordering their vines. St. rem O. AFter having been detain'd at Marfeilles a fortnight bycon- trary winds, a llrong Levanter blowing all the time, I had the good fortune at lalt to efcape (as I may truly call it) from thence, juft before the plague broke out there. I went on board a bark bound for Leghorn : we met with very bad weather ; after fix days labouring with wind and fea, and hav- ing two or three times had fight of Corfica, where our captain would have landed, but could not for the violence of the wea- ther, and being driven upon the Genoefe coaft, we u ere glad at laft to get alhore at St. Remo ; and 'twas not without fome difficulty we did it, for the fea continued very high. Some Spanitli pilgrims that were on board with us, as foon as they got afliore, kifs'd the ground with tranfports of joy for their efcape from the ftorm which had been the night be- fore J nor were any of us, I believe, difpleafed to find our felves upon terra firma; or with the fcent we found there upon our landing, of the orange and lemon trees, which when we came nearer, we faw loaded with fine fruit. 'Twas an exceflive boiftrous night of wind and rain ; and the rain continued all the next day ; however I made a fally out to fee a little of the town, which is fituated on the fide of a hill, pleafant to the view, but not very much fo to walk in, many of the ftreets be- ing very fteep. There are fome good houfes, and I faw one a very fine one, curionfly adorn'd with marble. The afcent to the church of Madomia da Porta, is a pretty good breathing : that being the firft church I had then (een in Italy, I might poffibly think it finer at that time than I (hould now; but there is a great deal of marble in it,andwell wrought; for the four twifted pillars at the great altar, they told me, there had been bid fifty thoufand crowns : but that bouncing way of fetting forth their things, I have not minded fo much fince, ha- ving been more us'd to it. The St. R E M O. 19 The weft end of the church is adorn'd, as I have feen vaft numbers fince (but take this firft opportunity of mentioning it) with little pidiurcs (fadly done) ex voto for efcapes from ftorms, flaipwrecks, &c. with pieces of cables, broken muf- quets, &c. hanging among them, as perhaps after a fea-fight, or engagement with pirates *, Thefe are moflly the fubjeft of thefe tabulce 'vot'ivce here, the fituation of the place giving frequent occafion for them. The BlefTed Virgin with our Sa- viour is placed in the clouds ; in a corner of moft of them is written ex tc falus : how 'tis to be underftood, whether of Chrift or the Virgin, is not faid. But I found the matter pretty well explain'd elfewhere, in other infcriptions on pidlures of the Blefled Virgin, which I met with on the road ; in one place, Sufficit aufpicio, Virgo, fubirc tuo. " 'Tis fufficient for me to *' be placed under thy prote(flion, O Holy Virgin." At Oneglia. Vergine Santa, cajla, pura, pia, Guardimi, die fia fictira via. " O holy, chafte, pure, pious Vigin, take care of me, that *' my voyage may be fafe to me." At Savona. Sub tuiim prcef.diiim, SanSia Dei Genitrix, " Under thy fafeguard, O Holy Mother of God." At Genoa. Sub umbra alarum tuarum. " Under the fhadow of thy wings." And, In te, Domitia, fperavi. " In thee, O Lady, have I put my truft." Terms appropriated to the Almighty, but by thefepeople tranf- ferr'd to her. I noted down thefe few, which were then a • Horace alludes to a like cuRom prevailing in his time. . Me tabula Jacer Voti'va pariei indicat, uvida Sufpendiffe fottnti Vejlimtnta maris Deo. Lib. I. Od. v. Me in my vow'd Piflurc, the facred wall declares t'have hung My dank and dropping weeds, To the Hern god of fca. MUtcn, " D 2 novelty, 20 St. R E M O. novelty, and may ferve r.s a fpecimen of muUitades more to the lame piirpole, which I have feen fince *. From that eminence, where the church (lands, we had a view of the grounds about the flvirts of the town, where we hw corn, vines, and ohves, growing all together, and fonie- times almonds and figs among them, with palm-trees frequent in the town and about it ; from whence, as I was told, are gather'd the dates that I had feen at Marfeilles. Churches with thefe forts of titles, Madona da Porta, /.; Guarda, &cc. are pretty frequent upon the fea-coaft, cfpeci* ally where there are ports. There are of the fame fort upon the coafts of France. At our arrival at St. Remo, we we were told that a Genoefe- veffel we had ken at fome diftance the day before, was taken' by the Turks ; we faw the Turki(h vefTcIs alfo, two of them r but the French being at peace with the Turks, they did not attack us ; for 'twas a French veffel I had the good fortune to be aboard, or I might poffibly have paid a vifit to Algiers,, which had not been much with my inclination. Finding the wind (till contrary, and the captain giving no great encouragement of its changing, I got my things from on board, and hired a guide and a couple of mules, and on Sunday May 12, fet out from St. Remo for Genoa. 'Twas a journey of three days, ninety miles : as for the road, 'twas pretty much in extreams, either very good or very bad, but much the moft of the latter; generally alongthe brinks of vafthigh mountains,, the path very narrow and very rugged; the precipices fteep, in fome places almofl: perpendicular; and for the depth \ tho' a fmall part of it would be enough to do a man's bufi- nefs effectually, fhould he be fo unfortunate as to tumble ' The Greeks are not a jot bthind the Romanics in the particularity of their ad- tlrelTes to the Blefled Virgin, ns may be feen in feveral of their offices ; iwifuyia. Oiormi, cua-ot ^/x«V. " O Mother of God, holy above all, fave us." 'E-jt-i o-e ^m ra? £A7ri&; i»'«9/pvi» 0EOTOXI. " In thee, O Mother of God, have I put all my iruft." ^voaiir,y,iii Stcc crw T^v "jTift^cicTtuy' ev yap £* >; cuTri^xa. th yti/u^ xo'c p^ftft«yf^v. " O blert'ed Mother of God, open to us the gate of thy mercy : let not us, who " hope in thee, err : but let us be deliver'd from dangers by thee : for thou art the " fafety of all chrillians." So in the taking of a journey, the Greeks alfo are careful to commend themfelves to the protcflion of the Blefled Virgin, who is addrefs'd to under the title Ihy^f'm, hence bcAcwed on her. down ; MOUNTAINS. ALBENGA. FINAL. down J as upon the lead falfe ftep he muft do : yet our fure-footed animals made no more on't than if it hud been a plain; tho' we were fometimes forc'd to climb where no- thing but they or a goat could have gone. At the bottom, the Mediterranean accompanied us on the right hand all the way ; which came rolling to the fhore with luch a force, that the found it made refembled thunder : the vaft waves with a grumbling at flrll:, forcing flioals of pebbles along with them, which ended with a rattling like that of the thunder-clap } and made me think the ftories I have formerly read much more pro- bable, of the catara(fts of Nile deafening the neighbouring in- habitants. Where the waves had met rocks on the (hoar to refill them, it rain'd upwards to the height of fome lleeples. The eminence I rodealong, gave mevarietyof diftant profpeftsj and many of them not difagreeable j the nearer ones often ro- mantick enough, and would have been fine lituations for en- chanted caftles : the pleafant cafcades I met with fometimes in natural grotto's, would only have been made worfe by art. As I went along, I frequently met with a fort of tree which my guide called Servata, the leaf much like an oak, but not fo firm ; another which he called Ceruba, an evergreen, the leaf not unlike Launiftinus. The mountains were in ma- ny places for a long way together cover'd with olive-trees, and we rode fometimes through vaft groves of them. Where the olives did not grow, there were often great woods of pines^, with myrtle, and juniper 'under them, lavender,, marjoram, alecofl:, angehca, &c. On the mofl barren of the rocks, and where nothing elfe grew, not fo much as grafs, I obferv'd thyme in the greatell abundance j particularly on the vaft rocky mountain near Final, which feem'd a fort of dark-grey marble.. On the Albenga-fide of Final we found the moll: rugged way and moft horrid precipices of any we met with between St. Remo and Genoa. The mountain was vaflly high, and fo fteep. that we faw the very plan of the town under us, which with- the fea on the fide of it made a very agreeable profpedl. On the Genoa-fideof Final was another mountain call'd Capo Final, by fome Capo Noli, (being likewife near Noli) but generally Capo Malo, and Capo di Diavolo ; though I think the other better deferves that name. We travelled further on thro* feveral FINAL. feveral woods of chefnuts: I tailed of bread made of the nuts i it was of a fweetifti tafte, and rather cloying ; fo that a little of it might go a great way. I obferv'd feveral baftions or towers along the fea-fide, which my guide told me were built againfl the Turks, who fometimes annoyed thofe coafts. The citadel of Final is fortified well by nature on the fide towards thefca, being fituated on a high and very fteep rock. There is a good handfome church at Final, well adorn'd with marble, and fome pieces of painting by the better fort of mo- dern hands. The plains I met with fometimes in my way, made good amends for the other parts of it : the country was perfectly laid cut into gardens ; and the richnefs of the foil fhew'd itfelf in the luxuriant growth of what it produced. The vineyards were moil: delicious j thedifpofition of them I obferv'd to be different, in the different places thro' which I pafs'd. In thefe parts the vines were planted in rows, which anfwer'd regularly each way, about four yards diftant from each other : the bodies of the vines, about feven feet high (ftrengthened by ftakes) fupported a flat roof made of their branches, which were tied down to a frame of cane, fo that for the compafs of a large field you might walk as in a continued arbour. We faw many nurferies of cane planted for that purpofe. I crofs'd abundance of little rivers, which were moft of them fordable at that time. I fuppofe they had not run very far; but took their rife among fome of the neighbouring mountains on my left hand, and emptied themfelves into the fea on my right. The little towns and villages at the foot of the mountains a- long the fea-fide, were prettier than anyof their fize I have met with elfewhere. As Genoa is a very fine city itfelf, fo the little places under its dominion were in their proportion fuit- able. The door-cafes in thefe little towns were many of them marble, fo were the window-frames and flairs : but marble is no rarity in thefe parts, and no otherwife coflly, than by the labour of working it. At Sputorne, a linall town in this road, I met with the for- rowful mother of a youth who was in the vefTel taken by the Turks the Friday before. At SAVON A. GENOA. At Savona there is a ftrong citadel, and a pretty harbour. At Alenzano they were building a great many barks of feveral lizcs. From thence to Uilri is a bad way, rough, and full of precipices : but from Uftri to Genoa, which is ten miles, is not only an excellent road, but adorn'd all the way with conti- nual buildingsand plantations. In the intervals between the vil- lages were feveral country feats, and fomeof them very fine ones. When we came to Sellri, and efpecially to S. Pietro d' Arena, [call'd by the country people Piederino] the buildings ilill mended : in tlie laft we pafs'd by feveral palaces very magnifi- cent, and finely adorn'd with marble ; others painted on the outfide with ornaments of architecfture in the fame manner as they are at Genoa. GENOA. AT my entrance into Genoa, I pafs'd by the lantern- tower, which is for lighting fliips in the night ; and fo along the fides of the harbour, which is a large one ; and had, as I went along there, a very fine view of the city. There were in the harbour five gallies with fl ives : and, as I was told, they are not to exceed that number, being oblig'd to it by powers Itronger than themfjlves. I had opportunity of feeing but little of this fine city, being obliged to purfue my journey on- wards with what convenient fpeed I could. In order to which, I hir'd a Felucca that night to go ofF next morning ; but the wind proving contrary, the Felucca would not flir ; fo I was forc'd to alter my meafure : for thofe fellows care not how little they labour at the oar; therefore will not put out but when they have a profped: of a fail's doing their bufinefs; and in ;jny confi- derable voyage, the Italian failors, and the French too, arc very different from ours. 'Tis not enough for them to have a fair wind ; but they muft ftay two or three days to have it fettled, before they will hoifl: up fail. I have reafon to fay this upon my own experience of tlie latter ; our captain at Marfeilles having fo long waited the fettling of the wind there, as (had he made ufe of it in the beginning) would have brought us to Leghorn, by the time we got o'.;t of port. But to return from this di- greflion. Being difappuintcd of my Felucca, I ftay'd that 5 ^^y 24 GENOA. day to fee a little of the town, and it truly deferves its epithet of Genoa la Superba. The town in general makes a very fine appearance, and the principal palaces are extremely noble. Tht Jirada nuova con- lifts almoft all of fuch, being moft of them all over marble, and the architedture magnificent. 'Tis a great difadvantage to them that the ftreet is exceflively narrow : but, a reafon is af- fign'd for the ftreets being fo here, and in other cities of Italy, that 'tis for the fake of the fliade. The painting the outfide of the houfes is very frequent ; fome with hiftorical fubjedts, or landfkape, perfpeftive, Sec. but many with pillars, cornices, and other ornaments of architecture, reprefenting iuch real ones as had been proper in their place. Againfl; thefe laft an objec- tion has been made, " that it puts us in mind of fomething that *' is wanting." 'Tis true, the reality is wanting, and would ftill be wanting, tho' other painted ornaments had been made there rather than thefe: but, if any fort of paintings be allow'd, why not that which reprefents fuch ornaments, which, if real, had been of all others the moft proper in its room ? the author Mr. AJdifon. ^^ ^^^^'^ objedion is truly a great onej but this great city does likewife on her part demand fo much juftice from the traveller, (who cannot but be delighted with her beauties) as to oblige him to confider at leaft, whether fuch fort of ornaments are indeed to be accounted fo ill-judg'd or no. The churches of Genoa are fome of them very fine.efpecially thofe of the Annunciata and St. Cire, in which you fee nothing but the fineft marble of feveral colours; rich gilding and paintings, and even incumber'd with ornaments. Among the reft, vail numbers of the TabuIcB Votivce, and other vows, in filver, mother of pearl, &c. of legs, arms, hearts, and almoft all parts of human body, hung up [Ex voto) upon recovery from ailment in fuch part, as is there reprefented. The ufe of thefe is fo frequent all over Italy, that in the prin- cipal cities, you fee fome filver-fmiths ftiops intirely furnifti'd with them; infomuch that they feem to deal in nothing clfe : as there are other (hops, and whole ftreets of them, (particular- ly at Rome and Loretto) that deal in nothing but beads and rofaries, little crucifixes and Madonna's, of brafs and other metals ; and thefe nrtifts, like Deu^etrius that nnde filver 4 ftirines GENOA. flulnes for Diana, by this craft have their weahh. At the weft tml of the Annuiiciata is a Laft Supper of Camillo Procacino, [large] not fcen to advantage ; tlie liglit of the great \vifidow over it, and of the dcor under it, glaring in your eyes. The cieling is painted by rrancefchino Boiognefe, and other modern mafters. In St. Lewis's chapel, in the fame church, there is a good pidure of that fiint kneeling before an altar, with his crown and the rell of his regalia at his feet : great devotion is exprefs'd in the countenance. There is a crucifix of white marble, in another chapel, in a niche, where a real light is let in fome where from above, accom- panying a rcprefented one of carv'd and gilded rays, which has a very good effetft. I favv feveral fuch afterwards at Rome, where the light tranfmitted thro' a yellow glafs (efpecially •when the fun happen'd to ihine through it) falling in with thofe gilded rays, and fo flriking on the figure, gave a furpri- fing beauty to it. The church of St. Philippo Neri is painted by Parodi, a mafter now much efteem'd in Genoa. In the church of St. Luke is a pidture of the Holy Family, where an old man with a fort of garland about his head, is entertaining the BltiTed Virgin and the Chrift with a lefTon on the balloon. The church of St. Cire has a double row of carious marble pillars, large, and all of one entire piece; which they told me coil fix hundred Spanilh piftoles each ; — but all they fay of that kind is not to be depended upon. The altars on both fides of the church with their little chapels, do each of them belong to fome noblemen of Genoa } and it feems as if each ilrove to out-do the other in richnefs and beauty of ornament. The fidc-chapels in other places are likewife appropriated to particular families. The church of St. Ambrofe has fome vafl: marble pillars, each of one piece, with fome good paintings. In the church of St. NIaria de Carignano are four large ftatues of white marble, which fland adjoining to the four great pillars which fupport the cupola. The St. Stbaftian ' and the Beato Alelfandro Sauli by Puget, are both good ; and that of St. John by Parodi [brother to the hiftory-painter of that name] is lb too. A fourth of St. Bartholomew (what author, I know E not) 26 GENOA. not) is but Indifferent. There is in this church a hiflory-piece faid to be of Vandyke (and has a good deal of him) St. Aiax- imin, bilhop of Marfeille, adminilbing the flicrament to St. the/'gi^e che Mary Magdalene; that they told me is the ftory ; but either Antiquaries, my Cicerone* was out in his account, or Marfeille muft have W pans'" ^^^^ ^^'■y early provided with a bi(hop. There is in this church cf Italy. a fine pidlure of St. Francis by Guercin del Cento. The church flands on the top of a hill : and I went up the cupola of it ; from whence 1 had a fine view of the city, fea, and the ad- jacent mountains : the feveral terraces on the outfide of the cupola, and other parts of the church, are all of marble : but that is no rarity here ; for, befides the fine white marble of Carrara, which is not far ofl-', the nearer mountains on each fide Genoa afford great quantities of other forts. In the town-houfe, one great hall is painted in frefco, cieling and fides, by Francefchino of Bologna. There is an- other room (as my guide told me) painted by Solymini of Naples ; but the fenate was fitting there, and I could not fee it. Over the door of the arfenal, I faw the rofirum of an old Roman Ihip ; 'tis of iron, with the reprefentation of a boar's head at the end ; the neck of it is hollow ; the fides of that are eat through with ruft in fome places: 'twas found in clean- ing their port, as the infcription under it fets forth. 'Tis plac'd. as looking through a fort of window, and, I believe, the whole length of it is not feen: about half a yard of it appears j but the refi; may probably be no more than a further continua- tion of the lame iron which is in view ,• within which ('tis likely) went the beam of timber 'twas fix'd upon. If this be, (as the infcription fays it is) the only original one hitherto • feen, (though thofe on the Columna Rofiirata in the Capitol at Rome,, are doubtlefs authentick reprefentations) it mud cer- tainly be efiieem'd a very valuable rarity. As I was going about the town, I obferv'd on the principal gates fome pieces of great iron chains hung upon each of them; thefe my guide told me were brought from a ]X)rt of the Pi- fans, which, (while they were a republick) they had near Leghorn. Thefe Pifans had taken fome gallies from theGenoefe, which the Genoefe retook ; broke the great chain which was to fecure the gallies in the harbour, and brought away the gallies. //V^t^j//'///// .a/ /// VETV5TIORIS HOC JEVI ROMAN I K05TRUM IX EXPURGANDO PORTL^ AXXO MDXCVII ERUTUM UNICUM HUCUSQ A^I$UM,EXIMli£. MAJORUM IX RE XAL'TICA GLORIA DICAVERE CONCIVES. Ji///*/ //u)i /// Jiu/ J.O. y/7j/n/^//irjz/j ^ 6''/rcuwicuio77. y?£^. fs. G E N O A. S A R Z A N O. M A S S A. 2 gallics, chain and all, which they diflributed in pieces, as abovc-niention'd. After 1 had left Genoa, I was told of a law they have there againft fodoiiiy, in thefe words: Contra natiiram luxurians, ^X Pro prima vice pa-nd Jolidorwn duodecim condemnctur ; pro ^ fecundd vice, pcend folidorum viginti ; pro tertid, igne creme- tur ; nifi tamen tituhfanitatis id fecerit ; eo cafu, ab urbe e/i- cjJtjir, tanquam fajlidiofus, How they explain the titido fanitatis, I could not learn. However it be, they feem willing to give a falvo even to the third offence. Having taken this fliort view of Genoa, I refolv'd to attack the moiintains again, and took pofl next morning for Sarzano, fometimes horfes, fometimes mules, according as the roads would admit. When I came to Sarzano, I had done with the mountains : the country was then plain, and the roads good ; fo from thence I took a port chaife to Pifa, and fo to Leghorn. I pass'd through Maffa ; and near Carrara, where are the famous rocks of white marhle, which fupply all Europe for Aatues, and other fine works. The duke of Mafia's ter- ritory is but fmall, yet by fqueezing his fubjedts, he makes fliift to keep up the port of a prince as to himfelf, and is faid to keep a gay court. He was at that time (I think) in France. On my road this way, I faw a young lafs tolerably well drefs'd, fine yellow fhoes, and fcarlet flockings, riding aflride on an afs. Such fights were afterwards more frequent. I forbear to fay any thing now of Pifa, Leghorn, or Rome, (whither I went at this time) or any other places I did re-vifit, choofing to refcrve what I have to fay of thefe places 'till I come again to them. After a fliort ftay at Rome, I came to Reggio \\w Lomhar- dy] in company with a Milanefe baron. We let out about fun- f'et, and travell'd all night. Being a little fatigued that day, I was very fleepy in the chaife ; and every time I began to nod, my baron gave me a fliake, or touch of the elbow, with thefe awakening words, Sidormis, moreris ; " If you fleep you die ;" (for we fpoke Latin, I being then but very ilenderly furnifli'd ~E 2 ' ' with 28 T O R N I E R I. with Italian) and enforc'd his elbow-arguments with exam- ples of fome terrible effeds of fleeping in the Campagna of Rome, to thofe who come out thence during the time of the heats J for this was about the middle of June. We came to Tornieri, which is 105 miles from Rome, before we went to bed ; but that was for expedition ; for the danger of fleeping does not continue for above thirty miles from Rome. The perfedly fuperftitlous caution of the Romans, as to what I have been fpeaking of, is very great. For, for tho.e that have been any time in the city, to go out of it, and fleep within the Campagna, is efteem'd death : on the other hand, for fuch as live in the Campagna, and come into Rome in the time of the heats and fleep there, is efleem'd death likewife. This notion had fuch weight with a prieft, who belong'd to a convent at ibmediftance from Rome, and was tutor tothefonsof the houfe v;here we lodg'd, that having occafion to come to Rome in the time of the heats, and vifiting there the |-arenls of his pu- pils, (we were there at the fame time) though he ftaid in town two nights, he kept himfelf awake (drinking quantities of tea, &c.) all the time : which was the more extraordinary, it be- ing the general cuflom of the Italians, befides the night-reft, to go to fleep for two or three hours after dinner in the hot weather. Some, I have been told, carry it fo far, that they would not change their room, nor even have their bed remov'd to another fide of the fame room, upon any account. Meafunng of 'j'jjj, ^,^y. ^f meafurlng of time in Italy, appears pretty odd to a new comer: it founds a little ftrangely to hear them talk of fifteen or twenty a-clock : for they reckon round all the twenty-four hours. The fetting of the fun, or the ringing of the Ave-Mary-bell, which is fomewhat after, in fome places, is what they begin from; fo that if the fun fet at a'g/it a-clock Englifli, then nine is one hour, and fo on, till the fun fet again, which is twenty-four. But the compafs of the clocks rarely goes any farther than twelve ; in many places, no more than fix ; and fo begins again ; fo that when a clock ftrikes three, at one time it is to be underfl:ood as t/iree, at another as ;//;/£', at another as ^?^£';;, at another 2.% twenty-one : the general time of the day is guide fufiicicnt for you to know which R E G G I O. «9 which of the threes it is. By this way of meafuring from fun- fet, tlie noon-hour (and indeed every other) is continually va- rying ; it being mid-day fometinies at fixteen hours, and fome- times at nineteen ; and I'o at all the intermediate times: lb that 'tis impoflible for a clock or watch which is fet the Italian way to go exadlly right any two days together j therefore they alter them once a fortnight ; and in the mean time make allowance for the difference. It feems as if the contrivers of this way of reckoning the time, [beginning from the fctting of the fun] took their hint from the Mofaic account of the creation, and the expreflioa there us'd, ^mi the evening and the morning ivere thejirjl day. In Rome, and fome other places, the clocks flrike the hour twice, after about a minute's paufe between. On my road to Reggio, I faw a pilgrim repofing himfelf with a valt heavy crofs, a perfect tree, lying by him, which after fome time he began to tug at, and raifing one end, got it upon his Ihoulder, and putting the crofs-beam before hisbrealt, theotherend lying on theground, march'd along with it; which (according to the account of the time, and the fize of the timber) feem'd to be the fame we faw afterwards at Rome \\\ a cloyfter of St. John Lateran, which we were told the pilgrim had carry 'd or dragg'd along from Bohemia thither. But one muft not be too fecure upon fuch appearances of penance : for we were told of a foot-pad, who being drefs'd in the habit of a pilgrim, and having a great crofs along with him, robb'd the padcngers, and when he was taken, a confiderable lum was found, llow'd in a hollow within his crofs. REGGIO. REG G I O is a city fubjed to the duke of Modena, and the people there give their own city the priority in the duke's title, fiyling iiim duke of Reggio and Modena ; to which may now be added Mirandola, which is fubject to him. We had audience of the duke at his palace within the ca- ftle. His highnefs receiv'd us playing his fan. After the firCt reverence, at his highnefs's command, we all put on our hats : ^o R E G G I O. hats ('tis the cuftom) ; and his highnefs difcoius'd of his being at London in king Cnarlcs's time; fpoke of the great chan- cellor's houfehe had (<;en [Clarendon-houfe]; and told ushehad pafs'd under London- Bridge. We had audience afterwards of the two princes his fons ; and then of the dutchefs of Ha- nover, mother to the late dutchefs of Modena. Our audience of the younger prince was fitting ; of all the reft that have been mention'd, fbnding. The dutchefs was pleas'd to talk to us with great condefcenfion and affability; and did us the honour to take notice of her being coufin to king George, as well as of her being mother to the emprefs, &c. We faw a bill at court : the two princes took out none to dance with, but the two princeffes their fifters. The palace is but ordi- nary for a fovereign prince ; 'tis not indeed his chief refidence; that is at Modena. In the hall are pidlures of his highnefs's anceftors : fome of which, according to the accounts there under-written, liv'd about 1200 years ago. There was a fine opera at Reggio, as there is always at the time of the fair ; and is generally efteem'd the bsft in Italy : the new-marry'd princefs of Modena (already menuon'd] then made her firft appearance there. The opera-houfe at P.eggio was themoft noify one I ever heard ; the company went from box to box to vifit one another ; others were playing at cards ; and minded the opera no more [though Fauftina fung] than if it had been a fermon. In the churches of Reggio are copies of fuch original pic- tures as were once there, but have fince been remov'd to his highnefs's palace at Modena. In the dome I obferv'd an epitiph, Pe/egrino Aherno, facerdoti graviffimo, virgini- tatis laiide maxime claro ; *' To Pelegrine Alverno, a very " grave prieft, who was moft famous for his virgin-chaftity." Whereby it fliould feem that fuch a charafter was efteem'd a rarity among them, notwithftanding their perpetual celibacy. The women of Reggio and Modena go veil'd : the firarf that goes about their ftioulders being thrown alfo over their heads, and brought over their faces in fuch a manner, that you fee nothing but their eyes; fo that they take care to fee you, though you fliall not fee them. When I firft faw a number of them together, I thought they had been fome mourners be- longing t,o a funeral. The R E G G I O. ;; The Jews of Reggio, who us'd to be fcatter'd about the town, were in the year 1671 (as I found by an infcription over one of the gates) limited to one part of it [a. g/n\'to, as they call fuch plates in the cities of Italy] by order of a dutchels- regent at that time. It has feveral little ftreets, and- a fyna- gogue. The gates at the feveral entrances, I was told, are all (hut about fun-fet. I faw them Huitting and locking one on the outfide, as I pafs'd by one evening aboirt that time. One day in the fair, 1 happen'd to liglit upon the fight of a monftrous birth, expos'd there to view by thcfat/icr and f/io- ther, who were of Cremona. The half-brother (if I may fo call the addition) wanted all the upper parts, and had all the lower ; they were join'd belly to belly above tlie navel of the intire one, the half one having no navel j they were both male ; the whole one was a fine jolly child, and had a beautiful face ; about nine months old, and was very fprightly. The urine paffes fometimes from one, fometimes from the other;, (never from both together) the excrement only from the intire one. The limbs of the half one fcem'd to have grown very little fince the birth ; nor were they quite fo warm as thofe of the other ; and the finews of his hams were very much contraiHed. I was the more particular in my enquiry,. looking, upon this (tho' not fo extraordinary as the famous Hungarian twins fliewn fome years ago in London, yet) as a very uncom- mon work of Providence. We faw at Milan and Verona fome embryoes of two bodies join'd, with one head. The country of Lombanly is perfedtly flat; a rich foil; fine paftures and corn-fields; abundance of vines, and white mul- berry-trees for the filk-worms ; the vines running up their branches. This country is the fineft we faw in Italy, unlefs you'll except the Campagna Felice about Naples. We obferv'd few timber-trees, only elms and poplars, which fupport the vine-branches, as I obferv'd before of the mulberry-trees. The roads are very broad and even, and moll pleafant travelling in the fummer; but fome of them deep enough in the winter : the hedges by the road-fide are many of them cut, and manag'd with a great deal of exadnels. The vines run up the bodies vines in of (he trees, and intermix ihemfclvcs with their branches \altas LombarJy. maritant %^ ( .riiages. L O M B A R D Y. maritant populos] ; and the extremities are drawn out from tree to tree, and hang in feftoons between them along the road- hedf^es ; from thofe hedges there go rows of trees along the £;rounds, at about forty or fifty yards diltance from each other; the vines all running up their bodies : and here, befides the felloons hanging from tree to tree, the vine-branches are ex- tended ris^ht and left, and fallen'd to a row of ftakes on each fidci which run parallel to the trees : and thefe flakes are as fo many pillars, fupporting a fort of penthoufe, or oblique roof, which is form'd by the vine branches on each fide the trees. Thus are the grounds difpofed and planted on both fides the road, and the trees with the vines manag'd in this fort of na- tural architecflure, generally fpeaking, all over Lombardy, The carriages in Lombardy, and indeed throughout all Italy, are for the moft part drawn with oxen ; which are of a whitifli colour : they have very low wheels. Some I faw with- out fpokes, folid like mill-ftones j fuch as I have feen defcrib'd. in fome antique baffo-relievo's and Mofaicks. The pole they draw by, is floped upwards towards the end; which is rais'd confiderably above their head ; from whence a chain, or rope, is let down and faften'd to their horns; which keeps up their heads, and ferves to back the carriage. In fome parts they ufe no yokes, but draw all by the horn, by a fort of a brace brought about the roots of them : the backs of the oxen are generally cover'd with a cloth. In the kingdom of Naples, and feme other parts, they ufe buffaloes in their carriages, &c. Thefe do fornewhat refemble oxen : but are moft four ill- looking animals, and very vicious ; for the better management of them they generally put rings in their nofes. The butter and cheeie made of buffalo's milk, is fad fluff: the latter (o much refembles hog's lard," that 'tis fometimes miftaken for it ; of which we had fome pleafant inftances. Thev have one fort of favourite Madonna all over Lombardy, •which is painted on the outfide of the houfes in the towns and villages, and on little walls raifcd altar- wife along the roads. The Chrift is laid on a bank, &c. at a little diflancefrom her ; and Ihe is in an inclin'd pollure of admiration and adoration, looking towards him ; and thefe words are writ under, ^lem genuit, adoravit. '• Him, whom ihe brought forth, llieador'd." This PARMA. G U A S T A L L A. Tills, I think, is the only inllance I haveoblerv'd amor.g thoin, wherein the Madonna does not fcem to have the Superiority over the Clirill. From Reggie, ofwhich I have been fpeaking, the firA place of note we came to, was Parma : from thence we made a (lion vifit to Modena ; and at our return, purfued our journey, by the way of Mantua, Verona, Padua, &c. to Venice. We vifited Modena, Parma, and Verona a fecond time, after we had left Venice, and had been at Rome, Naples, &:c. So I reierve what I have to fay of thofe places, 'till I come again to them. In our way from Parma to Mantua, we pafs'd the river Leinza by a ferry, near a little village call'd Sorbolo : a large bridge there had been broken down by a great inundation about two years before. We afterwards pafs'd through Guaftieri and Guaftalla : at the former, there is an uninhabited palace of the duke of Modena. There is a large handfome fquare, with a portico going about three fides of it. The dutchy of Guaftalla is now in the hands of the empe- ror : as we pafs'd by, we faw fome antique ftatues left about the palace, but all feem'd to be in great diforder. W'e afterwards pafs'd the Po byaferry nearBorgo Forte. The roads hereabouts were then bad in July ; though rais'd in fome places about tvv'elve or fifteen foot above the level of the country. The way of pafling the Po, and fome other of the great rivers, is by a ferry made of two boats, over which is laid a floor of planks large enough to receive four or five coaches with their horfes at once. The planks are fo laid as to keep the boats at two or three yards dirtance from each other, for the water to pafs between them. In the middle of the river, about lOO yards above the part which is to be crofs'd, or more, if the pafi^agebe very broad, isfix'd an anchor, or fome- times the body of a tree, for a center ; from thence is brought a cable held out of the water by a row of fmall boats (perhaps a dozen) and continued to the ferry-boat ; this cable keeps it from being carried down the flream ; and as foon as 'tis put in motion by the current, the dire*flion of the rudder carries F it '34 M A N T U A. it a-crofs. The joyn'd boats, of which the veffel is made, move fide- ways ; fo that the current of the water runs along between them ; by which means the cable is lefs ftrain'd, the ftream having lefs power upon them. In this journey we pafs'd by Luzara, where was fought the battle between prince Eugene and the French. MANTUA. MAntua, in or near which place Virgil was born, as ap- pears (among other teftimonies) from his old epitaph [Mantua me gemiit, &c.] is faid to have been built 600 years before Chrift. 'Tis fituated in the midft of a lake, which is made by the river Mincio : we pafs'd over it by long bridges; The water of this lake was very low, when we pafs'd it in July, and all over-grown with reeds and fedges. We find 'twas fo in Virgil's time. > — —~veJatus Arundine ghiica Minchis > • • • > — JEn. 10. Mincius with wreaths of reeds his forehead cover'd o'er. Dryden. To this perhaps may allude that other paffage of Virgil, Et qualem infelix ami/it Mantua campum Fafcentem niveos Herbofi jium'me cygnos, Geo. L. 2. Or fuch a field as haplefs Mantua loft-. Where filver fwans fail down the watry road. And graze the floating herbage of the flood. Dryd. When it was that Mantua loft: its country, Servius in his notes upon this pafl^age informs us, together with the occafion of it ; v/hich was, when Auguft;us order'd the grounds about Mantua, as well as thofe of the Cremonefe, to be diflributed among his foldiers. Augufl:us having gain'd the vicflory over M. Antony, as a punifliment to the Cremonefe, who had fided ■with Antony, took their grounds from them, and gave 'em to Jiis army ; and thefe being not fuflicient, he added thofe of the Mantuans ;. MANTUA. Mantuans ; not through any fault of theirs, but by reafon of their unfortunate neighbourhood ; and this gave occafion to that other pallage. Supcrct tiiodo Mantua nobis ; Mantua, VoE mlferce nimium vicina Cf-ettioria: ! Eel. i.v. ■ Sliield the Mantuan towers. Obnoxious by Cremona's neighb'ring crime. Dryden. The fituation of Mantua we find by Livy to have been the fame as 'tis now in, and long before his time ; Pontibus, ut nunc, oUm terra continenti adnexa fiat. " It was formerly, as *• 'tis now, joyn'd to the furrounding land by bridges." He further adds, that '* that was the longeft bridge, which leads ** towards Verona." At our coming into Mantua, we were examin'd by fome Huffars belonging to the emperor. The firft ftreet at the entrance is fair and open ; and there are a great many good houks throughout the cityj but it did not feem to beany better peopled than the generality of the Italian cities are; which is ufually thin enough. By reafon of our (liort Itay there, we could not fee the palace, which is called T, from the figure of its area, refembling, as 'tis faid, that letter : nor was it {o great a lol's, as it would have been fome time ago, while the duke of Mantua was there himfelf, poflefs'd of that noble col- lodion of ftatues, pidture?, and other rarities, which are now difpers'd all over Italy : for at this time you Ibarce feeanycol- ledtion, where they don't (liew fomcthing that belong'd to the Duca di Mantua. The emperor was making fome new for- tifications at Mantua, which we faw as we left it. As we came towards Verona, a large open plain gave us a clear view of a part of the Alps. We went dired:ly upon them for a good while; then left them on our left hand, when we turned' to Verona. The country on that fide being fiat, we had a view of Verona a good while before we came to it. The beginning of this day's journey, we had very bad roads, confidering the time of the year [July]; fome deep holes, with water lying in them. They chang'd to a fine gravel, as we came nearer Verona. F 2 From 3-6 PADUA. From Verona, we came to Vicenza, plentiful of counts, ever lince Charles the fifth, according to an old fiery, dubb'd them fo all at once. Here are a great many buildings of Palladio, publick and private : among the reft, a theatre, and an arch, in imitation of the ancient triumphal ones. This makes a very pleafant view from the road, together with the Campo-Marzo, which is feen through it : it lies a little on the right hand as we enter the city. We made no ftay here, but pafs'd on to Padua. PADUA. OUR approach thither was by a rais'd way, which we went along, fome time before we enter'd the city ; not unlike that as we enter Canibridge from Huntingdon. But, if we compare the roads, we murt not compare the univer- iities. That of Padua is not now in fo f^ourifliing a ftate, as it has been. The fame may be faid (and that in a much greater degree) of the city in general. 'Tis encompafs'd with a double wall ; the inner, which is the ancient one, is very ruinous i and the outer (a fortifica- tion made by the Venetians) is but in a bad condition. Here is truly rw m itrbe ; for a great deal of ground within the walls is unbuilt, and where it is built, the flreets are in feve- ral places over-run with grafs ,• for a great many confiderable Iioules are uninhabited. Some of the beft are in the nature of villa's to fome of the noble Venetians. That of the Fofcari has a court before it, which to an antiquary would be the mofl precious in the world, and preferable to one f'urrounded with the flatelieft porticoes or noblelt ornaments. 'Tis the arena of the ancient amphitheatre of Padua, and fome ruins of the amphitheatre itfelf remaining are its walls, but fomewhat debas'd with modern reparations. Of the churches, that of St. Giuftinais much the fineft, as to theflrudure, though St. Antonio's doesfarout-ftrip it, as to the devotion of the people. The great refort of the devout to this church, arifes from its being pofTefs'd of the body of that faint; who, x<«7'«|ox»V» is there call'd 11 Santo : though, by the by, as great a faint as he was, he has turn'd the BlefTed Virgin 1 PADUA, 37 Virgin out of doors ; for tiie church was formeHy dedicated to her, hut fincc he fet footing there, it is no longer Jiers. The whole church is very rich in monuments, filver lamps, and other ornaments; but the Capella del Santo [the chapel of the faint] is fo in a much more extraordinary manner. There his body is depofitcd in a rich tomb of white marhl?, the upper part of which is an altar ; it /lands ifolata, as they call it ; that is, not joined to any wall or pillar, but fingle by itfelf, fo as that you may go quite round it, and view it on every fide : there are fome chinks between the ftones, on the back part of it, through which there pafles from his bones (as they tell you) an aromatick fcent. Such a fcent there cer- tainly is, but that may be accounted for without a miracle. Three fides of the chapel are fill'd with balTo-relievoes in white marble, reprelcnting the hiftory and miracles of the faint : they are moft of them excellently well done, by San- fovino, and other very good mafters * : the fourth is open to •Tulli Lom- the church. There are two great filvcr-candlefticks fupport- barJo and ed by angels finely done in white marble by Parodio •■, befides Cam'^^^^r^ near forty filver lamps continually burning. The relbrt to \cKn.c?e. this chapel, and indeed to the whole church, for the fake of this faint, is incredible ; fcarce yielding to the Cafa Santa-\\\.{t\L t The holy Hither fometimcs come pilgrims from very diltant places ; and ho"feof Le- the concourfe from the neighbouring cities is very great. Here they hang up their vows ; here they rub their beads, and fore- heads too upon the facred marble, after they have greedily drank up the precious fcent at their noftrils. In ihort, however thia of people the other parts of Padua may be, this church is al- ways futticiently crowded. In the choir are fine bas-reliefs, in wood, by Andrea Briofco, anno 1515; others in brafs, by Giacomo Velano, diliriple of Donatelli ; Scripture ftories. Near the choir, hangs a pi(fture of St. Antonio, which they ,fay is an original, drawn from his own face. The infciiptioa tells us he died anno i23i, a;tatis 36 ; a young age to have aitain'd to fo great a reputation for fandtity ! Behind the choir is an additional building, which they call the Anduary, a Ro- tonda, begun thirty years ago, and not quite finifb'd when we were there in 1720. 'Tis richly adoin'd with marble, and Ivas fome good ilalues of Parodio. Behind the pulpit is an old 3'8 P A D U A. old chapel [of Sl Felix], where there is the crncilixlon of our Saviour, the carting lots for the garment, &c. finely painted in Frcfco by Giotto, and the belt preferv'd of any thing I have fcen of that old in.iAer. There is another chapel, all hung round with vows ; among which there is a pretty odd one of a man, who, they tell you, v/as wrongfully imprifon'd in a tower : he implor'd the alliftance of St. James, who came, and gave the tower a tip, to make it lean a little on one fide ; and cut crept the prifoner at the bottom : and the repre- fentation of this matter, is the rubje(5t: of the votive pifture hung up there. I know not how St. James, or any fuch old- fafliion'd faint, came to be in fo much credit with him : for, generally fpeaking, the fcripture-faints hold no degree of efteem, if compar'd with thofe of the modern kalendar. Near this church, is what they call the fchool of St. Anto- nio. There are at Venice a great many buildings of this na- ture, which are meeting-places for certain confraternities. ipoi reliirious and charitable accounts. The infide of this fchool is all painted in frefco; the fubjedl, the life and miracles of the faint. Several of them are done by Titian. In one of them, a new-born infant, at the command of St. Antonio, pronounces who was his father. The man had come home from abroad, and found his wife brought to bed : He was not fatisfied as to the child, thinking he was not his own. St. Antonio, knowing the fufpicion to be unjufi, to clear the innocence of the mother, gives the new-born infant the power of fpeech : the wife child knew his own father, and im- mediately claim'd him. In another, a youth had kick'd his mother, and at confefilon declar'd it to St. Anthony: St. Anthony told him, he deferv'd to have his foot cut off for fo wicked an acft ; the youth, ftruck with remorfe, immediate- ly went home, aad cut of his own foot. The mother went and told St. Anthony what had happen'd. St. Anthony came, fct his foot on again, and perfedly heal'd him. In a third, a foldier had kill'd his wife, on fulpicion of her having play'd him foul play. As he was making off, St. Anthony met him in the way,' and bade him go back; told him his wife was not dead; that fhe was alive, and innocent. A great many other iloriesof the like fort, arepainted round by other mafters, which 1 PADUA. I did not much regard, nor fliould I have bgen fo particular in thefc, but that I found them (o well told by Titian. 'Tis the general way in moft of the convents, to have the life and miracles of their founder, or fume confiderable faint of their order, painted round their cloifler, in feveral compartiments under the feveral arches : and be the cloifter never fo large, they feldom fail of miracles to go round with it. At a little dillance from this church and fchool, is an eq^ue- ftralilatucin brafsof Gattamelata, a general of the Venetians, The church of St, Giuflina was defign'd by Palladio : 'tis truly a noble ftrudture, and moft richly adorn'd on the infide with marble, paintings, and gilding. Icannot faymuchasto the beauty of the outhde. In the firft place, you don't come well at the fight of any part of it, except the P'a^ade, and that is ut- terly unfinilh'd, left only in rough brick-work, to be covcr'd fome time or other with a fine front of marble, Tlic feveral lelTer cupola's, which go along the nave, though they look ex- tremely Well witliin tiie church, have not fo good an effctf't on theoutfide; but feem'd rather to embarrafs it, according to fuch views as we had of it, at fome diftance : but the infide is truly beautiful, well lighted, having fair open views, enliven'd, but not incumber'd with ornaments. I know not whether (after St. Peter's atRome) any church I have feen, would afford a better and more agreeable variety of profpec^ls, if well taken in perfpedlive. The architedl: indeed feems here clearly to have out-done himfelf, if we compare any of his other works (tho' he has done many fine ones) with this. As the whole is finely adorn d with marble, fo is the pavement extremely rich : the figure of the defign in the dilpolition of the marbles, is various in the feveral chapels ; and in the feveral parts of the nave ; the fancy in fome places is a little odd : a good deal is kid in fuch form and rtiades, as to reprelent cubes fet on one corner : one chapel reprefent beams fet a-crofs, and hollows between them. Quaere, How well judg'd, when the floor you are to walk upon is (as it fliould be) really even, to contrive induftrioufly, with great art and greater cofi, to make it appear uneven^ One mull not over-much regard the ac- counts they give fometimes of tire expences of fuch works : but they told mc, that this pavement alone cod three hundred thou- 6 39 4© PADUA. thouHmd filver ducats, which are worth about 3^. 4^. or 3J-. bd. apiece. [At 3J. 4^'. apiece, it comes to 50000/. fterling.] The lame perfon told me they had offcr'd eighty thoufand cjowns to have the Fa9ade adorn'd with marble ; but that it would not be undertaken for that price. The friars of this convent [Benedidines] are rich enough to do almofl any thing. There is within the church, a fine Dead Chrift, Blefled Virgin. 5cc. in white marble, of Parodio Genoefe. There is a well in the fame church cover'd with a grate, and encompafs'd with a parapet-wall, in which are preferv'd the bones of a great many martyrs, who fufifer'd death (as they fay) in a large open place before that church ; part of which is from thence call'd Campo Santo. Hither tlie pilgrims come to rub their beads upon the ilones that are about the well, and kifs them with great devo- tion. They are not content with lefs than two of the four evangelifts, St. Matthew and St. Luke, both whofc bodies they lay they have there, and whofe tombs they fliew ^ and infift, that, tho' they pretend to have a St. Luke at Venice, this of Padua is the trueone. They told us, that the then prefent pope [Clem. XI.] had indeed declar'dinfavourof the other; but time would come, they did not doubt, when their's would be again pronounc'd the authentick, as it had been in times part. I law a fellow crawling on his hands and knees about the tomb of St. Matthew. There are fine balTo-relievoes in wood in the ftalis of the choir. The great altar-piece reprefents the mar- tyrdom of St. Giuftina; 'tis of Paolo Veronefe; the defign feems a little confus'd, and not fo degage as moll of his other works are. In an old choir adjoyning, there is fome painting of Andrea Mantegna, and an altar-piece finely colour'd by Hieronymo Rumani. There is a fubterraneous chapel with a corridore leading to it, painted in frefco. This (as I re- member) they laid was St. Giuftina's prifon. The convent is very large : one of their cloyfters is lurrounded with very old painting in frefco. They have a very fine library with curious pillars of marble, and fine carving in- wood; for they pretty much lludy the ornamental part ; there is a line vifto through it and the abbot's apartment. Their cellar is not worfe furnilli'd than their library ; it has feveral large vaults, with double rows of butts two yards diameter each. At P A D 11 A. 41 At the church of the Emeritani, the Eiiglifli, though pro- teftants, have a right of burying ; a privilege not elt'ewhcre allowed to thofetheycall hereticks. On each fidethcgreataltar, is a faint painted by Giorgionc. In a fide-chapel, the death of St. James by Andrea Mantegna, and the death of St. Chrifto- pherbyGiullo. Tliere is a fineSt. John ofGuidoin the facrifty. At the entrance of the garden of fimples are dire<5tions for your behaviour when admitted. Hh: Oculi, hinc Majms, &c. *' Look, and welcome, but, handsoff." We faw there the "Ju- jube, which bears a fruit fomewhat like an acorn ; we ate of them at V^cnice. There was the Lcntlfco di Scio, the F/os Pajfionis, reprefenting the inftruments of the Paffion, and feveral African and other foreign plants. The garden of Papafava is very pleafant, with flatues and other fuitable ornaments. From the top of a fummer-houfe in the middle of a wildernefs or maze there, we had a pleafant view of that partof the town. There is a whole houfe of ar- bours, with galleries, chambers, and beds of earth inftead of feather-beds, and all paflages of door-cafes, &c. as in a houfe. At the garden Morofini, we faw the Pompelmu!, a fpecies of orange of a vafl: fize, an Eaft-Indian fruit : 'tis ripe in May. The gardener told us he had four thoufand different fpecies of plants. At the Palazzo di Mantua, we faw a coloffal flatue of Her- cules, nineteen cubits high : 'twas made by Ammanati Fio- rentino. The univerfity is better regulated than it has been. There are none, or very rarely now, any of thofe * Chi-va-li, mur- ders that formerly were frequent. The number of fludents is not fo great as it has been : and they have found a neceffity of bringing it under better regulations. All the building belonging to the univerfity is no more than the fchools in ours, and difpos'd in much the fame manner ; with halls for readings in the feveral faculties ; for the fludents lodge in the town ; and fo too they do in moft of the other foreign univerfities. The arms of thofe thathavebeen redor6,profefrors, fyndics orcounfellors, ^q^^^^I Sindici. iarii. • That was the worJ, when the Mohawking fclioiars rambling among the Porticoes the llreeis a-nights, knock'd down people, and murdcr'd thsm for ff ort, V.M'Jfon. 42 PADUA. are hung round the Porticoes within the court. Of tlie coun- fellors there are twenty-two ; one out of each of the feveral countries, from whence ftudents come ; EngliOi, Scotch, G'ir. as well as thofe of roman-catholick countries. Among thole of our nation I ohfei-v'd the nam.es of Finch, Willoughby, Stokeham, Frewen, &c. Befides the coats of arms, there are pidures and hurts of feme of them. There is a theatre for anatomy, difpcs'd in the fame manner as I fuppofe is ufual elfe where. A table for diifeftion of the body is in the area,, and but juft room to go about it. Galleries go round in feveral heights, as narrow and fteep as well can be ; that fuch perlbns as are in the upper ones riiay be the lefs hinder'd from feeing J but thofe toward the top, I think, cannot fee much. There are feveral houfes in the town painted on the outfide by Paolo Veronefe, Giorgione, &c. The knockers at the doors of fome of the principal houfes are finely imagin'd ; animals of feveral forts, foliage, &c. like fome of the antique lamps, Mr. Talman had feveral of them defign'd by fignior Grifoni to. bring into England. At the Cafa Verefe is a pretty good collecflion of pidures, antique bufts, and llatues. The fuppos'd bones of Antenor and Livy are almofl in as high efteem with the Paduans as-thofe of their two evangelifts j and the two former may in time become faints, as Boetius is now at Pavia. The tomb of Antenor is placed at the end of a ftreet, (I think 'tis that of St. Lorenzo) in a row with two others ; one of which is Zabarella, an ancient noble Paduan. The tomb of Livy is plac'd at the upper end of the town- houfe, which is very large, and much refembles V/eftminfter- Hall : 'tis up ftairs. About the upper end there are fome old paintings, much decay 'd j they are faid to be of Giotto. To- wards the lower end is what the call they Lapis Vituperli. On this ftone 'twas anciently a cuftom (not pradis'd of late) that if a debtor would fit down bare-buttock'd, in a full aflembly, and fwear himfelf not worth fuch a fum, (about five pound of our money) he fliould be freed from his debt, and all further profecution of his creditors, 5 Though J^a^. ^^. fe ijiSteArf... .....rf-.:- 1> ; ■-'^2^--'''^;. Liili A.i^a/r/'//^' B..A^v///a^/-^ C.i>cvza^4Z.> r a; y , fy^ ^ PADUA. Though there are fcveral large open places, and much wafte ground within the walls of Padua, the ilreets are many of ihcm very narrow, and very ill-pav'd. There are Porticoes along the fides of the flreets here, as in moft of the other cities ofLomhardy. The river dividing itfelf into branches, runs through feveralpartsof thecity, which makes it very pleafant. They have here a cloth-manufadure ; and the noble Vene- tians are, for the encouragement of it, by their laws oblig'd to wear no other cloth, at leafl; for their gowns ; but they find means to evade it. Martial makes himfelf merry with the T^unkce Patavma in his time. . • Vcllera cumfiimant Patavim-e miilta trilices, Vix pingiies tunicas ferra fecare potejl. L. 14.. Ep. 143, Coarfe Paduan drabs exhauft: the waded fleece, A faw can fcarce work though the flubborn piece. We find by this, that the cloth-manufadlure of Padua is at leafl: an ancient one. Our antiquary at Padua, Dr. Mingoni, a do6tor of laws, keeps a regirter of the itrangers he attends upon ; his fee is a piftole. From Padua we went in a Burcello down the Brenta to Venice. The Burcello is a large handfome boat ; the middle part of which is a pretty room, generally adorn'd with carving, gild- ing, and painting. 'Tis drawn down the Brenta with one horfe to Fufino, the entrance into the Lagune; and from thence to Venice, 'tis hawl'd along by another boat, which they call a Remulcio, with four or fix rowers. The pafl'age down the Brenta is very pleaiant, being enliven'd on each fide with pretty villages, and with palaces, many of them built bv Palladio, which are villa's to the noble Venetians. There is one which they call ill Albero dOro; it belongs to a family of the Grimani. Of one of this family they tell this (lory : that he had loll: at play a great fum of money, and all his real efl:ates .one after another, but this villa : when this came to be made the (lake, he infilled upon excepting out of it a great tree he had aparticularkindnefsfor : itwasagreed to ; but his ill fortune G 2 Aill 43 VENICE. Aill purfuing him, and this villa being gone after the reft, be at lad: fet this dear tree likewife againft a fum of money. At this throw, fortune again turn'd ; he fav'd his tree, and won the money. He continued his play, got back his eftate, and with it a fum of money too, much greater than that he had loft. From this lucky turn, that fortunate tree to which it was owing, takes its name ; and is called Albero d'Oro, the golden tree. We pafs'd through feveral fluices, which are for keeping up the water in the river. From Fufino, where we enter the-Lagune, 'tis five miles to Venice. VENICE. THE Lagune, or lakes, (in the plural number, tho' it be but one) * is the name given to that vaft harbour,- or inner gulph, in the midft of which Venice ftands. It has in it many iliallows ; and, for the avoiding of them, there are rows of poles, on each hand, whereby the boats are diredled to keep the channels in the feveral roads that are to be taken. It is partedfrom the outer or great gulph, the Adriatick, by a long neck of land, which they call the Lido ; the word in the general acceptation fignifies no more than JJoore ; and this Lido ferves as a mole to keep the main force of the fea from much afFefting the Lagune : thefe are generally pretty fmooth, except in caieofhigh winds, which fometimes rife very fudden- Iv, and with great violence : in fuch cafe, woe to the Gondola's that are abroad, for they can endure no weather. When there is any fign of a ftorm approaching, they immediately make home- wards, with all the hafte they can ; and if they happen to be caught, they ftrait throw away the tilt or awning : one of thefe is the neareft word we have for the covering of a place in the middle of the Gondola's made with a frame of wood, done over with black bays, with a door at the entrance, and little Aiding windows on the fides. Not only on the Lagune, but in the canals * The fpeaking of the Lagune in the plural number, is not without reafon neither ; they being diflindl enough in their bottoms, tho' their waters be united in one comjnon furface at top. within VENICE. withintliccity, when a fudden florm arifes, though the canal be now fprcad over with Gondola's, in a moment's time they all dilappcar. The figure of the Gondola's is very long in proportion to their breadth ; and yet 'tis wonderful to fee with what dexterity the fellows will manage them, at a fliort turning in the narrowell of their canaL?, and avoid clalhing againlt other Gondola's; and this is frequently done by one Gondulier, for the hackney Gondola's have no more. At the fore-part of the Gondola is an iron plate, rais'd about five foot, in figure not much unlike a fwan's neck; there are (a furt of) broad teeth which go along the fore edge of it ; and it terminates in a kind of ax's head at top. The Gondola is not a veffel made tor war, but by the formidable appearance in the front of it, it feems to threaten as much as a Roman Roftrum, Tho' the Gondoliers are a fett of fellows that have all their paces, they do not in a literal fenfe " look one way and row another;" they row {landing:; one at the fore-part of the Gondola, and the oiher behind. The beft place in a Gondola, and that you compliment your friend with, is on the left hand; thereafon is, that you have there a fuller view of the fore Gondolier, who flands on the right fide of the Gondola, in cafe you would give any diredlions to him. But they are very exad: in Italy to give the right hand in a coach tothe moll honourable perfon. 'Tis time I fliould fay fomething of the city itfelf ; I have been led infenfibly to fpeak of the Gondola's firft ; and, I hope, not altogether amifs ; for they are made ufe of fome- times as a conveyance to the city, as well as in it. To begin then with: the diftant view of the city : 'tis a pleafure, not without a mixture of furprize, to fee lo great a city as Venice may be truly call'd, as it were, floating on the furface of the fea ; to fee chimneys and towers, where you would expedt nothing but ftiip-mafts. It (lands furrounded with waters, at leail five miles diftant from any land ; and is thus defended by its fluid bulwark bettc-r than by wallsor ram- parts; for, let the Venetians but pluck up their poles out of the Lagune, and they may defy any foreign velTcls coming near them by water ; and by land there's no coming at them. Though 45 -46 VENICE. Though the excellence of Sannazarius's epigram has made it fo generally known, I cannot forbear repeating it on this oc- calion. Viderat Adrlads Venetam 'Neptiinus in iindls Stare urbem, & toti ponere jura mart. Nunc m'lhi Tarpeias qiiantumvis yupiter arces Ohjke, Cy ilia mesnia Martis, ait. Si pelago Tibrim prafers, urbetn afpice utramque, Illam homines dicasy hanc pofiiijje Deos. The following tranilation was taken in part from Tate'^ mifcellany. Neptune faw Venice on the Adria ftand Firm as a rock, and all the fea command ; If thou Tarpeian tow'rs, great Jove, faid he. Prefer to thefe, itnd Tiber to the fea. Compare the cities, view 'em both, and then Own this was built by gods, and that by men. The * firfl: rife of Venice was owing to tlie terrible havock made by Attila, that Flagellum Dei, that fcourge of god, (as he is call'd) on the Terra Jirma, when he routed the people from their habitations, and drove all before him with Fire and fword. Such as could, betook themfelves to the banks where Venice now flands, and there took refuge ; and the repofe which was denied them on land, they found amidft the wa- ters. And as Romulus's Rome was only clay cottages, and con- tinued little better, 'till Auguftus gave her marble palaces ; fo * That is, firft as to any thing confiderable : tho' the iflands of the Lagune where Venice now ftands, were inhabited long before; but that was -only by poorfiftiermen, till the beginning of the fifth century ; at which time the Rialto being declar'da place of refuge by the Paduans, who were lords of tlie iflands of the Lagune, it began then to be flock'd to as a fafe retreat, in times of calamity and didrefs ; which were brought upon them by the feveral incurfions of the Goths and Huns : of the Goths, firft under Radagaifius in the year 407 ; afterwards under Alanc, in the year 413 ; of the Huns under Attila, as above mentioned. | was VENICE. 47 was the original Venice Lateritia*\ tijo' it be now Marmorea; Ron^am Ln- J'or lb in fad it now is.inagreat meaiure; leveral of its churches, vol!! Iwiiniio. other publick buildings, and the principal palaces, being allof "amrcliqui. ni.irble; and not plain marble only, but inlaid with Serpen- tine, Porphyry, and other richer ilo'.ies. That part of Venice we firll came to, is much broader than the other, which is in a great mcafure taken up by the arfenal. The great canal runs througli the nearer part of it, in the figure of an S inverted -jZ the famous bridge of the Rialto going over the middle of it. There is another confiderable canal called Canal Regio, but Jiothing fo great as the laft named : that canal is ftrait : the lefTer canals like veins in a body difperfe themfelves through every part of the city. Thefe canals are the great flreets of Venice ; for the land-pafiliges (which they call indeed no more than Calle, paths or toot- ways) are much the fame with our alleys in London. Nor do 1 know any thing fo like them as the alleys by Round-Court near Covent-Garden. There is ge- nerally little more room than for two to go a-breatl; and when you come to a place big enough for a boy to whip a top in, they call it a Campo. Tho' the general and moft publick pafiagc be by water, there is a communication between ail the land- pallages (except thofe of the Giudccca) by bridges j of which there are between four and five hundred. Thefe bridges very rarely have any battlements, and generally conhfl of one arch. The afcent to them is by Aeps, made of what they call the Pictra dura, a fort of white marble j which is often fo flippery, :r requires a carelul footing. There is not fuch a thing as a voach or a cart to be fcen in all this great city : if there were, I know not where they mufl: drive them. Ail weighty burthens are carried by water; all vifits paid the fame way; and you have no more to do than ftep out of your Gondola into your friend's houfe. In fome few places, they have what they call the • It was, in ftriftnefs, then not fo much as Lattritia. Reeds and wood were the iitft houfes, in the time of Al.iric Afterwards, upon the miferiblc deilruftion of the cities on the Tmrafatna, by Attila, the people that were driven from them having now no hopes of returning to their former habitationi, be ».ia by degrees to fettle t.'iem- fclvcs in the Laguiie ; fetching away the Rones and nufbleof thofe dcraolith'd places to build themfelves others more fafe in thofe jflands. jijipcndix to Pufftndorfs /»- tiidufnoii to the Hifiory of the principal Kingttomi and Sta'cs of Euroft, Fun- 48 VENICE. Fundament e httwttn the canals and the houfes, like the quays [or keys] they generally have in the towns of Holland, and in fome places here : thofe that are on the fides of Fleet-ditch are mofl like them of any that I know here. But for the moft part the houfes ftnnd direiftly in the water; with a pair of flairs for conveniency of landing. We frequently fee crab-fifli, left at low-water, crawling on the fides of the houfes. They call them Grand tenert, tender crabs, their fhells being foft. The profpedts are often very agreeable as you pafs along the canals : the perfpedlive view through the arches of many bridges at once, in the lefler canals, and palaces fre- quent in all, but more particularly adorning each fide of the great one, make the voyaging through thefe watry ftreets very entertaining. I know not what there may be in other parts of the world ; but there feems fomewhat particular in this city that diftinguilhes it from all others I have feen ; not only rn its extraordinary fituaiion, but the very look of the city itfelf; in the appearance of the nobles ; in the diverfions of the peo- ple ; a good denl in their habits, efpecially thofe of the wo- men, which differ even from thofe of the other cities of Italy. The churches, fchools and palaces, are many of them built in regular orders of architefture, and in a good tafie, by Pal- ladio, Scamozzi, Sanfovino, &c. The older ones have a fort of Gothick finery, which may be call'd rich at leafi:, if not beau- tiful. The outfide ornaments of each of thefe feldom extend -further than the Facade : there are indeed fome exceptions. 'Tis not enough that the churches, and other principal build- iings, abound with fine paintings within ; but you'll fee many private houfes, and fome of them mean enough in other refpeds, ennobled on the outfide walls, by the hands of Titian, Tinto- ret, Paolo Veronefe, Giorgione, Pordenone, and other princi- pal Venetian maftcrs. This praftice in general is common enough in other cities of Italy ; but we do not often elfewhere meet with fuch hands on the outfides of houfes as we do here. The chief and much the mofl beautiful part of the city is the Piazza di S. Marco.' 'Tis of an oblong figure, having the church of St. Mark at one end, and that of St. Giminiano at the other. On the fides, are the Procurati's; the old on one fide, the new on the other. The Piazza makes VENICE. 49 aretiim at a right angle, towards tlie fea ; and with it the new * prociiraties on one fide ; the Doge's palace is on the other. This return of the Piazzi is called the Piazzetta, or little place. On one fide of the Piazzetta [that next the Doge's palace] is the Broglio, where the nohlemcn meet and walk, and no other perfon is to intermix among them, or walk in that part while they are there, except barely to crofs. I have fcen them fomc- times on the other ilde, but the firft is that which they moll ufually frequent. They are fo civil as to take up no more than one fide at once. At the corner of the new procuraties, juft a« you turn out of the Piazza into the Pia~zetta, Hands the Campanile [or lleeple] of St. Mark ; for in Italy the ftee- ples are generally feparate from the churches. At the end of the Piazzetta next the fca, are two 'I- Granite pillars; on the top of one is St. Mark's lion, on the other is St. Theodore, and a crocodile at his feet. St. Theodore was the ancient patron of Venice, but was forc'd to give way to St. Mark upon the arrival of his body there. St. Theodore holds a lance in his left hand, and h;is a buckler on his right; which they fay is a fymbol, denoting that felf-defence is the principal thing they aim at, and that they are never forward to take up oflenfive arms but in cafe of necelfity. Notwithftanding this plauhbleexplicntion they giveof the matter,itfeemsto have been the fculptor's blunder; which the Venetian engravers of thefedayschoofe rather to cover than accountfor, by puttingthe lance in the right hand, in the prints they give us of him. Be- tween thofe two pillars is the place where criminals are execu- ted : and 'tis faid that the noble Venetians won't by any means pafs between them; that they look upon it as ominous, and a prefjge that he that does it, fliall end his days there. This ibperllition had its rife from the example of the doge Marino Falieri, who arriving at Venice after his election, and not be- ing able to pafs under the bridge of the Canal di S. Alarco, the waters being fo high, landed between thefe pillars : which • The Pioairaiit, as they call them at Venice, (or Procuraties in Englifli) arc r?n-es of apartments bi-lonyng to the Procurators of St. Mark. Somewhat more wi'l be Taid of thefe hereafter. t .^n /Egyptian ftonc ; wherein are many grains, or fmall ftones, dillinia ; like thoitr ol which gravel coiifiQs. I have feen, in die obelilks at Rome, which arc of The C.ime fart of (lone, empty holes or fockets, whence the fmall ftones had been iL'uck or pick'd cut. H did 50 VENICE. did indeed precede his ill fate, but furely did not caufe it. This doge, not able to obtain the juftice he demanded againflr Michael Sten, who had been too free with his wife, or one of his family, refolv'd to revenge himfclf by a maflacre of the principal nobility ; but one engag'd with him in the confpiracy, [Bertrand Pelizzarre] difcover'd it to the inquilitors of ftate, who the fame day cut off this doge's head in the firft year of his government, and the 8oth of his age. In memory of this difcovery they have now an annual pro- ceflion round the Piazza di S. Marco on the i6th of April,. St. Ifidore's day ; and in the hall of the great council, where are the pidtures of the doges, with their names, there is only a black cloth in the place of his, (per infaujla memoria di dijho- iiore, for the unhappy memory of the difgrace, as fays Contarini in his hiflory of Venice) with thefe words, hocus Marini Falc' tri decapitati, " The place of Marino Falieri, who was be- headed." They have it nov/ for a proverb at Venice, Guardati dal Inter colonnio, " Have a care of the fpace between the pillars." Near the other end of the Piazzetta are two fquare pillars of white marble, between which 'tis faid a doge was once hang'd ; and they have fince been called The Doge's Gibbet : they ftand- juft at the entrance into the doge's palace. Hard by are four figures, two and two, as whifpering ; which they fay reprefent fo many brothers, each two of them plotting to poifon the other two, which accordingly they did, and all four died. We cannot fay of the church of St. Mark as Ovid does of the palace of the fun, that the workmanfliip out-does the mate- rials, but jufl the reverfe. I have never feen fuch variety of marble in any one place, and that fo beautiful ashere; the whole church, infide and outfide, is all marble and Mofaick, cieling, fides, and floor. There is indeed an exceffive diligence (een in the workmanOiip, which has produced a perfedl exadnefs as to the manual part: 'tis pity the defign was not conduced by a better judgement, and a iiner tafte of architecflure : 'tis neither what we call gothick, nor is it regular: thofe tHat have been in Greece fay 'tis built after the manner of the churches tliere ; and it feems to be an aukward irregular putting together of fome of the regular parts of architedlure ; for the pillars are many of them of the Greek orders, but not right either in their meafures or difpofition. There are a world of trifling fmall pillars at the S front VENICE. 51 front without ; four or five little ones mounted on the top of a big one. The infide fcems much better than the outfidc ; the parts larger and more noble; b\it 'tis heavy and dark. The Mofaick defigns (after Titian) arc fome of them as good, as others (the elder ones) are odd and extravagant. They are moft of them fcripture-flories, or legendary accounts of fome of their faints : but there are likewife other fancies. Among the reft there arc reprefented two lions fair and fat, plac'd in the water; two others, lean and ineagrc, upon dry land ; to de- note that the Venetians (whofc enlign is the lion), while they employ thcmlclvcs at fca, will be rich and powerful ; but if they leave that for the land, will become poorand weak. There is a fort of Portico at the entrance; which likewife makes a return, and encompafles a good part of the church: this alfo has a great deal of Mofaick. Over the chief entrance there is a figure in a prieft's habit, with his hands extended upwards; and over his head a fingle hand, as blelTing him. This is a very good piece of Mofaick after a defign of Titian. They have here a Madonna, which they tell you was painted by St. Luke ; and fome pillars from Solomon's temple : I think they are of Serpentine. St. Luke is but little oblig'd to them for the pieces they afcribe to him: charcoal and brick-dufl: are generally their prevailing tindts. It feems as if they pick'd up the mofl fullied gloomy Madonna's they could get, as better favouring of an- tiquity, to affix St. Luke's name to : but the mifchief on't is, that leveral we have feen appear to have been painted in oil ; which was not made ufe of in painting, 'till of very late days, compar'd with thofe of St. Luke. They generally indeed take care you (hall not come very near, toexaminetheworkmanfliip; but keep you at an awful diftance, under a fliew of reverence to the facred image ; which has for the mofl part a glafs over it too. The middle gates at the principal entrance into this church are of brafs ; I think thofe on each fide them are fo too. 'Tis not only the infide of this church and Portico that is fil- led with Mofaick; but they have a great deal on the outfide likewife, open to the Piazza, in the Mezzo-Lune, as they call 'em [half-moons], under the feveral arches, dcfign'd by Maffeo of Verona. Over the middle gate ftand the four fa- mous antique horfes, of brafs gilt. It is faid theyare the work of Lyfippus, and that they were prefented to Nero by Tiridates 11 2 king s^ VENICE. king of Armenia. Tliey flood firfton Nero's triumphal arch at Rome, and were remov'd thence by Conllantine to Con- ftantinople ; when the Chriftians took that city in the year 1206, they were brought thence by the Venetians, and plac'd where they now remain. A good deal of gilding yet appears : in the other parts they are greenifh, occafion'd by the wea- ther. They are of a fine defign, and great fpirit in the ex- ecution. I have feen medals of Nero, having on their reverfa the triumphal arch, with the horfes upon it. 'Tis faid it was the intent of the Venetians at the building of this church, to make it the finefl thing that fliould be feen ; and had the architedl been as good as the materials are rich, it might have been fo; for certainly no coft or pains have been wanting, that might contribute to its ornament. On the fouth fide of this church {lands contiguous the trea- furyofSt. Mark, rich in jewels and inrelicksj thedifferenttrea- fures are kept feparate ; the ftate-jewels in one apartment, the relicks in another: tho' the later are pretty well enrich'd with jewels too. The fight of this treafury is. not a matter very eafily to be compafs'd. Three procurators of St. ATark have the three keys otit, and 'tis neceffary that oneof them be prefent whenever it isrtiewn, and that the other two fend their keys : ibthat the opening of it is generally in compliment to perfons of diftlnftion; and there have been inftancesof fomeof them, who tho' they have been promifed a fight of it, and had a time fixed for that purpofe ; yet have waited for fome hours, and been difap- pointed after all : but my lord Parker had a quick and refpedlful admittance. The procurator Fofcarini was the gentleman who took the trouble of being there that day. The principal relicks they fliew'd us, were, what they call'd the blood of our Saviour, ibme of the wood of the crofs, one of the nails, and one of the thorns; a knife made ufe of at our Lord's lafi: fupper r fome milk of the BlclTed Virgin, fome of her hair, and Ibme of her veil. Relicks of laints in great abundance ; their ikulls and other bones ; parts of their garments, &c. Among the reft they fliew'd ajointof St. Chrifi;opher's finger, which a lady who flood next to mc obferving to be a very large one, declar'd fhe ihould now no longer wonder that they painted St. Chrifto- pher of fo vaft a fize ; and, large indeed are the reprefentations cf him : 1 have feen pi(3ures and ftatues of him which I bejieva were. V E N I C L\ were ten yards high. There were leveral noble ladies tlierc; for this ireafury is lb feldom feen, that when it is to be opened, 'tis prefenily nois'd about ; the procurator admits Ibme of his acquaintance, and others are ready to crowd in j fo that we had Ibme difficulty to get a light of what we came for. This apartment was flicwn by a canon of the church of St. Mark. At the ilicwing of the temporal treafury, the Procurator was clofely prefcnt himfclf. Here are kept the ftate-jewels : the chief of which is the doge's Corno ; the fellow who fliew'd it inadvertently call'd it Lcv^Bcretta del Seraiiffmo ; but, by di- * Cap. rcdian of the procurator who prefided, he chaag'd the term to that of Corona. The cap-part of the Corno is of crimfon vel- vet, brought forward with a fort of pufFa-top, after the man- ner of what is always called among the virtuofi, the Phrygian bonnet -, as it is i's.iw in feveral antique flatues and baflb-Relie- vo's ; particularly their own Ganymede, which hangs from the cicling at the entrance into their publick library; and alfo on fome medals. The lower part is encompafs'd with a circle of gold, fet with large pearls, and other jewels of a great value (as are likewife the other parts), and a rich carbuncle a-top. The origin of the ducal Corno, fome pretend to have been this. That Pepin, fon of Charles the Great, being by his fa- ther eftabliflb'd King of Lomardy, had a mind to fee the rialto (for as yet it was not call'd Venice) ; and being received there with great marks of honour, did, on his part, make a Return> by feveral ads of liberality ; difcharging the annual tributes, payable by them to him, and prefenting them with land of five milesextent in the Terra frnia againft thcLagune; with ample liberty of trafficking, both by fea and land : and that Pepin, obl'erving the doge to vvear no external mark of dignity, took off one of the lleeves of his veft, and put it upon the doge's head in the form of abonnet : and from hence came the original of the ducal Corno or horn ; fo named, from the pointed end of this fleevc upon his head. And at that time, it is faid, the place firfl received the n^me of Venice ; for that Pepin would have the ifle of Rialto, with the other neighbouring illands, to bear the name of Venice, by whi^li name the whole ^"^IfJ;'; province aojoining to the Lagune wjS then call'd. They fliew alfo the crowns of Crete and Cyprus j the Vene- tians havo the crowns, and the Turks the kingdoms. We law like- i 53 .54 VENICE. likevvlfe twelve gold breaft-plates, enrich'd with large pearls, and other jewels, which belong'd to the ladies attending the Queen of Cyprus* ; and as many rich ornaments for the head which were for the ladies of Helena the emprefs. There were A great many other rich jewels, and curious veflels of rock- tryftal, agate, and jafpers, of which it were as endlefs as ufelefs, to attempt an inventory ; befides, that fome of them have been mention'd hy others. Over the door there is placed a very cu- rious piece of art, a St. Jerom in the wildernefs, in Mofaick: 'tis of a very good defign, and particularly curious for the workmanfhip : the bits of ftone are exceffively fmall, and fo they had need, for the whole figure feem'd not above a foot in length J yet every part perfedlly well exprefs'd ; not only in the principal figure, but in his companion-lion, and the landskape. The doge's palace is contiguous to the church of St. Mark ; a corner of the church comes into the court, and appears as a part of the palace. At this corner ftand two good ftatues of Adam and Eve, made by Andrea Riccio a Paduan. The ar- chitedlure of the palace, on the outfides which are towards the Piazzetta and the fea, is very odd and extravagant. There are two heights of porticoes which go all along ; above, there is a flat Brick-wall carried up, without either pillar or pilafter ; only variegated with diiferent-colour'd bricks, and fome ill- fhap'd gothick windows. The depth of this plain wall is more than that of the two porticoes which are under it put together ; fo that it has a very heavylook. The pillars in the lower por- tico have no bafe, and are fcarce half the length they fliould be; « The ftory that is to!d of the method whereby the Venetians became pofTefs'd of the crown of Cyprus, and the breall-platesof thefe ladies, has not all the circumrtances of honour that one could wifli. James, tlie laft king of Cyprus, confidering the intirc friend Ihip that had been kept up between his anceilors and the Venetians, came to Ve- nice, and defir'd the fcnate to fingle out one of the noblemen's daughters, and adopt her as daughter of the comuion wealth, in order to be his wife. Accordingly they gave him in marriage Katharine Cornaro, a very beautiful young lady : upon which he rcturn'dhome, and lived in peace. At his death, leaving his wife big with child, he ordain'd that Ihe and her child fliould enjoy the kingdom. The child died foon after it was born : and the Venetians hearing of the king's death, fent fome armed gal- lics, under the command of her brother, George Cornaro, with the pretence of acom- pliment of condolance, Mn the name of the fenate. Purfuant to the inllrudlions given by the fenate, Cornaro no fooner came before Famagofta (the metropolis of Cyprus) than he feigned himfelf fick, fo that he could not go afliore : upon the news of which, the cjueen, with fome of her courtiers, came on board to vifit her brother ; where (he and her train were.fecur'd ; and the Venetians furprifing the city, fubdued it, and the whole kingdom. See appendix to Puffendorf's introduction. fo VENICE. {o that you can hardly forbear imagining the other half to be in the ground, and that they have funk beneath the heavy weight a-top. The third fide [which goes along a narrow canal] is built in a much better manner of architedlure, of the pifSra dura, a fort of marble they have from Iftria : This fide has a very rich look ; but whatever beauty there is in it, is in a great meafure lort, for want of a due diftance to viev/ it at, fo that you fee all forefliorten'd above you. On the other fide the canal are the prifons ; to which there is a cover'd bridge of communication from the palace, for con- veying the prifoners thither to be examin'd by the magillrates in the palace. This bridge they call (and juftly enough) Poute de Sofpiri [the bridge of fighs] perhaps in allufion to the Sca/^e Gemotiice of old Rome. There is a front of the prifons towards the fea, handfomely built by Sanfovino ; a double row of por- ticoes goes along three fides of the court within the palace ; the church of St. Mark is on the fourth. On the top of the principal flairs, which lead to the upper portico or gallery, are two colofial ftatues of white marble, which are ufually call'd the Giganti ; made by Sanfovin, who was a very good fculptor, as well as architect : they reprcfent Mars and Nep- tune : thefe are intended to fet forth the power of the Vene- tians by land and fea. Among other ornaments on thefe Itairs are reprefented fome baskets of medlars ; and the Vene- tians, who are very fond of conceits, have found out one in tliis : thefe being plac'd as ornaments to the publick palace, the rendezvous of the magiftrates, and the feat of government, and being a fruit very harfli and unpleafant, till fully ripe, they tell you 'tis a fymbol or emblem, denoting that the admini- flration of publick affairs in a well-ordcr'd government, ought not to be in the hands of young raw perfons, but thofe of ma- ture age and experience. As you go along the porticoes, you fee fevcral gaping mouths, which they call the Demiticie Secrete; they are to receive informations, by billets dropt in there, of any offences committed againfl: the government; as importing of contraband goods, fiiife coining, abufes in the arfenal. navy or army ; publirtiing prohibited books, cabals, or inter- medling with affairs of Itate ; with many other particulars in the feveral branches of their government. And there ate infcrip- SS r6 VENICE. Tnfciiptlons on the wall, near each of the mouths, to fhew leverally what the crimes are that are to he inform'd of in each : what in this, and what in that, &c. The ceP.s that thcfe billets are dropt into, have a proper oflicer belonging to each, whofe bufinefs is to infpedl thefe particular matters, and make their report to the inquifitors of ilate, as feme have told me : others, that the inquifitors of ftate go from box to box, and infped them themfelves ; and that they keep the keys of them. In this palace arc the feveral halls of the m:?giftracy, and courts of juftice; for though it be called the doge's palace, he is lit- tle more than a lodger in it : it is indeed the palace of the republick, the publick halls and offices belonging to them making much the greatefl: part of it. The flairs that lead from the upper portico or gallery into the apartments, are moft richly adorn'd with paintings, and Stucco [plaifter-work] gilt ; the ftairs themfelves arc of the finell: marble inlaid ; and now who would believe but thofe who have feen it, that thefe ftair-cafes, and other avenues adorned in like manner, with fuch exceffive labour, art, and expence, (hould be fuffer'd to become perfect houfes of office -, with fuch filthy heaps, and nafty lakes, even at the entrance into the hall of the great council, that one fcarce knows where to tread ? 'twould make the reader fick to fay any more of it. But, this is a top inftance of the Venetian jiberty. 'Tvvould require a whole volume to defcribe the multitudeof line paintings in the feveral courts of juftice, and the apart- ments belonging to them. There are fome few of Titian, but vaft numbers of Paolo Veronefe, Tintoret, the Palma's, Ballano, and many others. I need not attempt a defcription of the particulars, there being feveral printed accounts of them. The hall of the Great council (which would be a noble room,butthat it wants a little proportional height) is fill'd with paintings; cieling, fides, and ends. The fubjedts are chiefly hifiorical, relating to their own ftate : embaifies ; the inter- views of fome of tlieir doges with popes; expeditions ;vi(ftories; taking of particular cities; fome emblematical and pompous pieces ; as, Venice triumphant, emprefs of the Adriatick, &c. moll: remarkable for its fubjeft is that of pope Alexander ihe third, putting his foot on the emperor Frederick's neck. Another VENICE, another particularly taken notice offer its vail fize, is a rc- prefentation ofParadife, by Tintoret : there are a multitude of figures in it; but too much confus'd: this is over the Doge's throne, and almon: takes up that whole end of the hall. In the hall of the college, (whicii is a feled body of the no- bles, who difpatch matters relating to embaffies, and fomc other publick affairs) and in the hall of the Council of Ten, nrc a great many piecesof Paolo ; and fomc of them excellent- ly good : efpccialJy thofe in the place lall: mention'd : moft; of his in I'lefe apartments are painted on the cieling. I was particularly pleas'd with two of them ; one is Jove carting down thunder upon fome figures which reprefent fo many vices : thefe arc intended to fet forth the offences which come under the poice of this rigorous Council of Ten ; whofe fentences are indeed as fo many thunderbolt?. Hard by, is an Angel with a book, which is to rcprLfcnt the decrees of this council. The other is Juno, who is pouring down from hea- ven, gold, jewels, crowns; and among the reft, the Ducal Corno ; a figure of a woman below is receiving them on her lap : this reprefents Venice, and the Lion of S. Mark is by her. In this palace is a little Arfenal or Armory, which has a communication with the hall of the Great Council : in this Armory are kept a number of mufquets always charg'd, and ready in cafe ot any fudden tumult, or popular infurredion, againft the nobles while they are fitting ; for them to lay hold of, and defend themfelves with. The charges are drawn and renewed every three months. Befides thefe neceffary arms, there arc others, old ones, kept more for ornament than ufe. And fome curiofities of other forts : in the firft place a Madonna of St. Luke's painting ; the whole gofpel of St. Mark wrote in Latin, in fuch a figure as to reprefent the pidture of St. Mark and his Lion ; the whole is within an oval of eight inches by fix. An Adam and Eve cut in wood by Albert Durer with his penknife while he was in prifon, as they tell the ftory ; and for the fake of which he obtain'd his liberty. Here they (hew Attila's helmet, Scanderbeg's fvvord, a whole fuit of armour of Henry IV. of France, finely inlaid with gold, a ma- chine to light five hundred matches at once, a brafs ftatue of Morofini [Mattroceni Peloponejiaci] general in the Morea, made I in 53 VENICE. in honour of hitn while living. [The fame honour they have now beftow'd on General Schulenburg, in the Ifle of Coffu, in his life-time.] Several (landards taken from the Turks, horfe-tails, &c. A buffc of Francifco Carrara, lafl: lord and tyrant of Padua, fet round with little arrows, with which he us'd to kill people for fport. This Carrara exercis'd many other cruelties and tyrannies in Padua, and did fome injuries to the Venetians : they at laft got him into their hands, and made him pay for all at once. They ftrangled him and his brother in prifon, and to go thorow-ftitch with their revenge, (for 'tis their maxim never to do it by halves), they put to death all his young children, without regard tcthe innocence YiJ. Amelot. ^^ ^j^^j^ infancy ; at once putting an end to them, and ail apprehenfions of their future refentments. The occafion cf making an armory of this apartment, was upon the difcovery of a dangerous confpiracy againft the government by Bajamonte Tiepolo, who, unable to bear the elecflion of Peter Gradenigc.^ to the prejudice of his father, who had the voice ofthepople,. and was by them proclaimed Doge, confpired with fome of the noble families, and other diffatisfied perfons, to maflacre the Doge and the whole fenate : but the day being come for putting this their defign in execution, there fuddenly arofe fo terrible a ftorm, that it feem'd as if the wrath of Heaven had arm'd all nature againft the confpiratois. And, tho' violent ftorms do, at other times, come very fuddenly in Venice, yet their own confcioufnefs applied to themfelves the coming of this ; which ftruck them with fuch a terror, that they imme- diately fled, and fought their fafety out of the ftate. The palace of the Quirini (one of the confpirators, ftanding at the Rialto,) was turn'd to a llaughter-houfe ; and at S. Agoftino, the parifti of Bajamonte, was wrote his condemnation, on a pillar of marble j and the memory of the confpirators brand- ed with eternal infamy. This fame confpiracy gave rile alfo to the ereftion of the Council of Ten, who were at hrft no other than a chamber of juftice appointed for difcovery of the ac- complices in this horrible defign. They continue annually to commemorate the difcovery of it ; the day is the i 5th of June, the feaft of S. Vito, on which day annually the fenate vifits (he church of that faint -, and they, together with the foreign ambaf- VENICE. 5>j atlnbafladors, are entertained by the Doge. And as one mean? to prevent thi: effedl of like defigns for the future, ihcy h;n.c made a fort of lodge [they call it Lco^giettn] a pretty bill ding of marble at the bottom of the tower of S. Mark, whth juffc fronts the entrance into the Doge's palace : here lome of the Procurators of S. Mark always attend, as centi- nels of ftatc, while the great council is iitting ; employing themfelves at the fame time in other bufinels, relating to their office. The tower of S. Mark abovc-mention'd i-^ all built of marble ; the way up it is not by fteps, but a Hoping ulccnt along the walls ; a vacant fpacc being Iclt in the middle : by this afcent one might go up on horfeback ; or even in a chaife : ihe profped: from the top of it is very pleafant ; you fee not only the whole city, but have a view too of the open fea, with the little illes ; which, with the Lido that lies towards it on one fide, and the circuit of the Terra firina on the other, make a mod: agreeable variety. The old Procu- rari's are built of a dark-colonr'd fort of marble : the new ones on the oppofite fide are of the Pietra dura of lllria , which is a fort of marble too : the church of S. Giminiano at one end, and that of S. Mark at the other, (as has been faid) arc of marble like wife ; fo that the whole piazza may be faid to be all of marble. The pavement of the area is of brick ; it is now very much broken ; 'tis divided into compartiments by borders of Pietra dura. The church of S. Giminiano is little, but a very pretty piece of archi- tecture ; 'twas built by Sanfovino. The old Procurati's are built iipon a good handfome portico that goes all along; but the fuperftrudture isalmolt all windows, which are fepara- ted only bv pillars: the apartments are now turned into pri- vate habitations. The new Procurati's make nine large apartments ; belonging to fo many procurators of S. Mark. (3f thele officers there was originally but one, who was call'd Procurator operis beati Marci. His office was to fuperintend the huildingof that church : but, as by many benefatftions, the revenues of the church increas'd, it was thought fit to in- crcafe the number of Procurators too : fo that fince the) have been call'd Procuratores [not operis, but] operuni beati Marci. I 2 Thefc 6o VENICE. Thefe Procurati's are a noble range of building, begun by Scamozzi, and finifhed by Sanfovino : they ftand on a portico of the Dorick order ; the two orders above, arc lonick and , Corinthian; but the uppermoft order is not continued the wholelength ; a little before the return, which (as I faid before) they make along one fide of the Piazzetta, there is only the Dorick and the lonick, and are fo continued after the return s this part is adorn'd with a balluftrade, and ftatues all along a- top. Towards the middle of this part, there is an afcent to the publick library, which is a very handfome room ; and, befides the books and manufcripts, which are its proper furniture, it is well adorn'd with very good paintings : there are feveral por- traits, hiftories, and emblematical pieces^ head of philofophers, &c. by the beft Venetian, and fome other mafters, as Battifta Franco, Salviati, &c. This library was confiderably augment- ed by cardinal Beflarione, as appears by an infcription upon marble which is there in memory of it. Before we come into the library, there is a fort of lobby, or hall of entrance, well ftor'd with good fculptures, antique 5 given to the publick by two of the Grimani, one of whom was patriarch of Aquileia, and had collecflcd them in Rome, Greece, and other parts. There are feveral of the Roman emperors, among which there is an Auguftus with a Corona civica ; and a Pertinax, much ef- teem'd. There is an Apollo and a Pallas, larger than the life, whole figures ; and another fine one of Pallas, a buft ; a Leda (landing; a dead gladiator ; a Bacchus and Faunus ; an an- tique mafque ; Cupid bringing a bow ; Jupiter Ammon very ancient ; feveral fine bafTo-relievo's, efpecially one that repre- fents a facrifice ; there is another good one of a vintage. Some old Etrufcan vafes ; altars and infcriptions, fome of which are ancient Greek ones, which I think are publifli'd by Gruter. There is a pretty Ganymede and eagle, hanging from the ciel- ing, the Ganymede has a Phrygian bonnet, as above menti- on'd. There is likewife among other paintings on the cieling a fine piece of Titian, a woman fitting, with a fcroll in her hand, and a boy by her. At the bottom of the flairs are two large figures, in white marble, by Sanfovino. He and Sca- mozzi are in great efteem at Venice ; and fo is Palladio, who has built feveral churches and palaces there. 5 What^. VENICE. 6i Whatever outfide beauty there is either in their palaces or churches, is feldom carried beyond the Fafade j though there are (bine few inflanccs to the contrary. Tlie churches of the Redcntore and Salute were both built ex voto, for deUverance from plagues : the firft ftone of each being laid by the Doge and Patriarch, one in the year 1577, the other in 1631 ; there is fomewhat grand in the look of each of them, efpecially that of the Salute; but it fecms overcharg'd with ornaments on the outfide: there are fome very fine paint- ings within, both in the church and the facrifty; particularly fome of Titian, which were rcmov'd hither from the church of S. Spirito. That of the Redentore belongs to the Capucins. The front of the church of S. Mofcs [for he is fliinted there] is much admired by the generality of the Venetians ; but is encumber'd with extravagant ornaments, the raoft of any thing I ever faw that aims at regular architecture. Befides the faints of the New Teftament, and the numerous ones of their own kalendar, the Venetians have likewife ca- noniz'd S. Mofes (now mention'd) S. Samuel, and S. Job, and built a church to each of them : alfo to S. Daniel and S. Jeremiah. Thefe being reprefented as holy perfons, and fa'mt implying no more, the title feems not improper, tho' not ufually given by us. In the church of S. Sebaftian, which is not a large one, and in the facrifty, there are forty pieces of painting by Paolo Ve- ronefe, befides a large one in the refedlory. In this church he lies buried. The church and convent of S. Giorgio Maggiore, belonging to the Benediftine monks, are very fine. Thefe, with the gar- den, take up a whole ifland. In the church are a great many paintings by Tintoret, and other good hands. The monks of this convent give out that they are pofiefs'd of the body of S. Stephen the Protomartyr, which they pretend was brought firltfrom Jerusalem to Conftantinople, in the time of Honorius Gsfar, and from thence to Venice in the year 11 10, by a monk, to whofe memory they have given this infcription. Ojfa Petri Veneti monachi, qui corpus protomartyrii Byzantio hue advexit 1 1 10. " The 62 VENICE. " The bones of Peter monk of Venice, who brought the body *' of the firft martyr hither from Conftantinople, i i lo." The upper part of the Tefedlory, which is about twelve ■yards wide, is intirely taken up by that celebrated piftire of Paolo Veronefe, the Marriage of Cana in Galilee: Paolo's wife is painted for the bride: himfelf, Titian, and one of the Bafl'ans, are joining in a concert of mufick, and Paolo's brother is go- vernor of the feii\, and is tafling the wine : 'tis a very gay pleafant pidture, and the architedfure in the back-ground is particularly beautiful. On the great ftair-cafe of the convent is painted Jacob's ladder, by a difciple of Paolo's ; and there is an infcription, which has regard both to the pifture, and to the flairs, which it adorns, ^ifquis Jios gradus premis, "vitia quoque calca, fic tibi ex piacuIJs novo more fcalam fades ad Cit- lian. " Whoever thou art that treadeft thefe fteps, tread alfo " under foot thy vices; fo (halt thou, out of good works, raife ■" to thyfelf, after a new manner, a ladder into heaven." There is a very handfome court encompals'd with a portico. The garden of this convent is the beft in Venice. There are many fine palaces that have no garden at all belonging to them : the moft that there are, are in a part they call the Giudecca, ■which is feparated by a broad canal from the reft of Venice. The churches are all, for the generality, very full of paint- ings, of the Venetian and theLombardmalters; of which there are fo particular accounts in print, it were fuperfluous to en- large here upon that head. The Venetians are excelTively lavish of their white wax ta- pers in their procefTions, at their night-litanies, and at the ^laranta Hore; i. e. theexpofition of the Hoft for forty hours, for the gaining of indulgences. I have fecn near five hundred lighted up at once over onealtar, rifing pyramid-wife, almoft to the top of the church ; and a glorious fhew it makes. The HofI: is feen through a circular plate of crvftal fet in gold, or filver gilt ; adorn'd richly with jewels, and rays of filver, as fliooting from it. In fome churches, upon fuch an occafion, we have feen jewels fet in ftars, and other figures, and rays of filver coming from them plac'd among the candles ; which made fuch a glittering, there was fcarcely any looking upon them. The folemn mufick playing, and incenfe wafting all the VENICE. 63 while, entertaining fcveral Tcnfcs at once, after the moH: agree- able manner. One night in S. Mark's church, belides the vafl illumination of the great altar, a row of candles went round the whole body of the great nave, and they were all lighted in a minute's time, by the i^eans of a line ot loofe flax, extended all along their wicks, which were ready prepar'd by being dipp'd in oil of turpentine. The occafion of this illumination was upon a gr;)nd procellion of the nobles, Cittadini [citizens], and others, who walked with wax tapers in their hands, round the Piazzii ; while the Hod: was carried under a canopy, attended by the Patriarch, and Primocerio, with the croficr : the in- cenfe wafting, lill'd the whole Piazza and all the adjacent parts. When they had taken their compafs round the Pijzza, they went into the church to receive benedidb'on. This pro- celfion was on the 3.d of January, to implore a bicfling for the new year. I never faw this church to fuch advantage as upon this occafion, it being fo well lighted ; which was ow- ing to the great number ot candles, without which, even in the brightcll day, it is dark enough. It is generally faid, th u more wax candles are fpent at fcrtivals and procetTions in \'e- nice than in any other city of Italy. I heard a Venetian carry it fo far once, as to fay. More than all Italy befides. But, that I know not whether I am in the right to repeat. The Primocerio, lately mention'd, is dean of the canons of S. Mark : he and they are all of the Doge's nomination ; for the church of S. Mark owns no other jurifdicftion than that of the Doge, who takes pollelfion of it, as the Pope does of S. John Lateran ; and in this ceremony the Primocerio or his great vicar prcfents to him the red ifandard of S. Mark, In figr num verce dominatvmis ; " As a mark of his real dominion over " this church." Monf. Amelot calls him the bifhop of the no- bles, as the prior of S. Johnof Malta is biftiopof thofe knights. S. Pietro di CafteUo is the patriarchal church, tho' that of S. Mark be the much richer Itrud.ure, Both the Patriarch and Primocerio are always ions of noble Venetians. The Greek church, as to its fabricJc, confitls of three parts, ji.e c,xi:etL which they reckon eflential, the'hxjtA»fict, x'jpof, and''A;'/5j' a^/^f, church. " The body of the church, the choir, and holy of holies." In the firil the lay-men fit j in the choir are the prielts and monks of 64 VENICE. of their church; tho' lome others are hke wife there fometlmesj this is feparated from the body of the church only by balufters. Into the Holy of holies there do ordinarily enter only the prieft who officiates, and his affiftants : when ftrangcrs are admitted to fee it, they are to put ofFtheir fwords; wh ch wedid. This is feparated from the choir by a wall, in whi(.h are three doors, over-againfl: the middle door, within the view of the people, ftands the chief altar, which is the altar of confecration j on one fide of that is the altar of preparation, where the elements are fet ready ; on the other fide a table for laying the veft- ments on, to be ready for the feveral changes which there are of them. There is likewife a Veftibulum to this church, which I am told is uncommon ; and is attributed here to the particular fancy of the archite<5l. The women in this church arefeparated from the men; fome lit in the Veltibulum, others in a gallery which is over it. The pried who officiates in the Holyof holieshas habits not unlike thole in theRomifh church, and fome of them very rich. Thofe in the choir, by whom the reft of the fervice is perform'd, (viz. alternate chants of pray- ers, &c.) have no particular habit, but are in the gowns they ordinarily wear. The Epillle is chanted by a youth, in the middle of the choir : and the Gofpel, by a prieft, ftanding at the middle entrance into the Holy of holies, who afterwards in the fame place makes a difcourfe, by way of explanation of the Gofpel: his aftion was very graceful and juft, and not fo theatrical as we ordinarily lee among thofe of the Romilh church in their preaching. At the time of the confecration of the elements, a curtain was drawn over the entrance into the Holy of holies; I fuppofe that it might feem the more myfterious. In their confecration-fervice, the words t«to y.i iW to <TZfj.a. [T/iis is my body] are introduced and fpoke by the prieft much in the fame manner as in our prayer of confecration ; but I • This prayt IS called the v-^nn,o^>.o- was told that they did not reckon that to be the confecration, ■'^«- properly fo called ; but that the confecration confifted in the * prayer for the for turning the blood of Chrift. * prayer for the Holy Ghoft, and in the following fufFrages, n is ufed for turning the bread into the body, and the wine into the when the ele - - - - merits are brought for confecration. The VENICE. 65 The material words in the prayer for the Holy Ghoft, arc thole wherein they pray, 'FTianwuTu.! ro ■xaiuA tm? ydfi- Tof ffi T'j iya^iv sj H,"aV» x«/ 'tj to) Tpoxs/M?!'* fu^<t TaCra.- - that God would fpread over theirr, and the gifts there lying, the fpirit of his grace. The fuffVagcs as follow. Pricit. no/iKroi- tJk fAiy^Af^oy 7sTiV T;ju/;f o-fcu* 7Z Xp/Ti'ffjt/. • " Make this bread the precious body of thy Chrifl:." Deacon. 'Ajxnv. " Amen." Pnelr. tl J'i \v •T57irp/« tktw t/u/oc au/* ri; Xp;<-» aw. " And that which is in the cup theprecious blood of thy Chrifl:." Deacon, 'a/^;'. " Amen." Prieft. W.(\ii.^AKuv Tu rrviiyLATi ca ru 'Kyi». " Changing [them] by the holy fpirit." From which lafl: arifes the /y.^«(33;..'i, ov change. I was likewife told, that in the Greek churches in the ealli they pray to the Holy Ghoft himfelf to defcend ; and not, as in this liturgy> that God would fend his holy fpirit [or more flridtly, according to the words above-cited, that God would fpread over them, &c. the fpirit of his grace.] The priefl: afterwards comes out of the Holy of holies, with the bread in one hand, and the wine in the other; which he carries round the choir ; the bread above his head, and the wine before him : as foon as he nppears, ihe people bow down with a low obeifance, and continue in that polture, without raifing themlelves up, till the elements are lodged again in the Holy of holies. After that is done, the people come up to the middle palfage of the Holy of holies, to receive the fscra- ment, which the priefl adminifters to them in a fpoon ; both kinds together : they rc-ceive it {landing: there is no kneeling at any part of the fervice, either by priell or people. And be- fore the fervice begins, the men fit cover'd in the church. They ufe incenfe, wax tapers, and lamps, as in the Romilh churches. They crofs themfelves at firfl: coming into the K church, 66 VENICE. church, {bme of them no lefs than eightor nine times j but they life no holy water. The manner of their crofiing is juft con- trary to that of the Roman CathoHcks ; the former doing it from right to left, the latter from left to right : and I was told that this was on purpofe to diftinguifli thetn from thofeof the church of Rome. The architedure of their church is good ; but the paintings bad enough. Our St. George is a great fa- vourite among them : they have three or four of his pidures killing the dragon. The church is dedicated to him. I obfer- ved fome of them kifs the pidluresof the Madonna and 13am- bino, as the Roman Catholicks do. Tho' they admit painting in their church, they allow no fculpture. But, in the Greek church at Rome, we faw a ftatue of a Dead Chrift, (painted over in the natural colours) expos'd in the church for moving of devotion ; where they came and kifs'd its feet with great reverence ; and there were fome Roman Catholicks among them. 'Twas in. the holy week. The church of the Ar- menians feems in nothing different as to its ftrudure from thofe of the Roman Catholicks. That at Venice is little, but vveR built. Their manner of worHiip is likewife much nearer the Roman Catholicks than thatof the Greeks. Tlvey ufe holy water; kneel at receiving the eucharilf j in which they ufe wafer, as the Roman Catholicks do; but they dip it in the wine*. The Armenians exalt the hoft ; and the people who are kneeling, thump their breads, and kifs the ground, as the Roman Catholicks do. Some little cuftoms they have, which the others have not. They have an altar of preparation (as the Greeks) a little one, at the fide of the great altar, on which the elements are put before confecration. They em- brace one another atone part of the feivice^ but not imme- diately before receiving of the eucharifi:, as the Greek's do : They diftribute confecrated bread, [not that of the eucharifi] thin, as the oatcake they make in feveral parts of England,' broke- in little bits, and the people kifs the hand of him thac diftributes it. This in their language is the fame thing as^ • Though the Roman Catholics allow the communion to the laity only in one kind, yet I have feen them (particularly at the church of S. Petronius in Bologna) Dive about a cup of wine to the communicants, after the receiving of the hoA; but chat wiee is not confecrated; and, as I ri-membtr. it was white wine. Lhc: VENICE. 67 the '.\ylr» of the Greeks, and the people at the talcing of this bread, give a p'ecx of money into n dilJi, vvliich is held for that piirpofe : though they have another collection of alms before tlie eucharifV, as the Greeks have. By what I have been fince told, the Armenians of Venice are no other than Papifts; they allow tranfubflantiation diredly ; but, what compleats the matter, they own the Pojie's llipremacy, which (as I was told) lor a more convenient being there, they were indiic'd to do. There is an Armenian church at Rome in one of the old temples* ; but the congregation there is very flen- * '^''"'P-.,. der. ihey are much more numerous at Venice, upon the riiis; now account of trade : and by the fime inducement, there is in- ^- '^'•'f.'^ deed a general contiux of all nations ; Perlians, Syrians, In- syp"^"- dians, 6cc. as well as P^uropeans j with all of whom, when together, the Piazza di S. Marco is pretty well fill'd. Befides the ufual ornaments, which are common to the reft of the Italian churches, fome of the Venetian ones have a conhderable addition from the magnificent monuments of their Doges, of fome of the moft \\ealthy Procurators of S. Mark, generals, and other great men among theni : which arc, generally fpeaking, more fumptuous, and more numerous, in proportion to the place, than they arc eUewherc, They have many of them large eulogies and encomiums, which the Vene- tians are no way fparing of after their deaths; however in- dudrious to fupprefs their glory in their life-time. In the church of S. John and S. Paul there is a monument ereded to the memory of the valiant Mark Antonio Bragadino, go- vernor of Famagofta in the illc of Cyprus ; who was there flea'd alive byordcr of Muft.ipha, general of the TurkiHiarmy : The Itory is told at large in feveral of the \'enctian hillorics, with its barbarous circumllances : and we have ieen fome rc- prefcntations of it in painting. There are near twenty Doges buried in this church. One day as we were walking there, obferving the monuments and picTturcs, a girl came and bcgg'd a Triary -f, and if we would give it her, Ihe would go | Abrut hear a mafs for us ; the Triary was given, without infilli.ig on '"^ " ''J!"' the condition : in a realbnable time flie came back again to giiii,. uf, told us Ihchad heard the mafs; recomtnended us to theHlef- K 2 kd 6B VENICE. fed Virgin, and went off, fully fatlsfied fhe was no longer our • That h, debtor. 'Tis a happinefs in Italy, that a man may pray or faft, nioi'tificadon. °^ difclpline *, or fight, all by proxy, if he has no mind to do it in perfon. During the time of our flay at Venice, we were prefent at a circuincifion, in the Ghetto, which fignifies here, as in other cities of Italy, a part of the town appropriated to the Jews only. The godfather, with a fort of white crape fcarf about his fhoulders, is jet in a chair; the child is laid upon his knees; anaffiftant is ready with a filver falver, which holds the inftruments and veffels ; viz. [i] a fm.all filver plate, having a nick along the middle of it, to Hip over the Prepuce or fore- jfkin, at the place where it is to be cut ; [2] a Ihort knife of If eel, having a pretty thick back like a razor ; [3] a little filver cup with fand, to throw the Prepuce into ; [4] another fmall filver veffel with fangiih drnconis [dragon's blood] in powder, to flrew over the new wound ; and another of the fame fort with balfam to apply to it. He that performs the operation having a white filk fcarf thrown about his flioulders, takes the fmall filver plate, and drawing out the Prepuce with the other hand, fiips it within the nick, and with the knife cuts it off at once, and throws it into the fand : when that is done,, with his thumb-nail (which iskeptpretty long for that purpofe) ; he tears open the fkin which yet remains about the Glans ; and ftrips it back, fo as to leave the Glans quite bare ; he- then fuck's the blood from the wounded part, and fpouts it into a glafs of wine, of which he fups fome himfelf,. and puts ?. little into the child's mouth; and the refi: is handed about, as a ■pociilum charitatis, for the friends, each of them to take a fup : mean while he proceeds to ftrew on the fangnh draconis,. which he does pretty plentifully; and over that applies the bal- fam ; which is fpread on a round bit of rag, having a hole in the center, for the Glans to come through : he puts on two of them, and then binds all up. It is not neceffary that a priefi; fliould perform the office; or that it fhould be done in the fynagogue; any friend may doit, inthehoufe of the parents, as this was done; and it is efteemeda meritorious adl. All thefore- ■flcins any one of them cuts oif^he keeps by him till uis death: at which V E N I C E. 69 which time they are put into the coffin, and buried with him ; as if he were to take them along with him, to appear for him in the next world, as fo many tellimonies of thofc good offices he had perform'd in this. Preparatory hymns arc lung by the friends, in Hebrew ; and the circumcifor chants fomcvvhat, during the operation. The circumflantial cere- monies of fucking and fpouting the blood into the wine. Sec. they hold from oral tradition. The mother fate dred up in her hed, in the next room, as our Engliffi ladies do at chrillnings. Tlic Jewilh women have the privilege of dreffing like the noble ladies, [i. e. after the French manner] which the other women of Venice are not allow'd to do : and fomc of them were fet out very richly with jewels. The Schools of Venice (which I iuft mention'd when Ifpoke of Padua) do, in fomc refpedts, refemble the halls of the com- panies in London. They are meeting-places for confrater- nities ; fofiic for difpenfing of charities to the poor ; fomc for bellowing dowries upon poor maids at marriage ; fome for burial of executed malefadlors ; and fome for affifting to- Avards a recovery of the Holy Land ; befides other purpofes which I had no account of. That of S. Rocco is the fineft flrudure ; the front of it is very rich. Out of the great hall below, we enter upon a large flair-cafe, which leads into the principal room, a fpacious and noble one. The cieling and fides are all painted by Tintoret. There are in this School, in the fcvcral apartments, near forty pieces of that mailer; moll of them as large as the Cartoons at Hampton-Court ; and one in tliC yllL-crgo [an inner room] much larger i which reprefents the crucirixion of our Saviour; and is held in fo high eltcem, that Agollino Caracci has engrav'd it. That piece is done with more accuracy than the generality of his large compofitions ; many of which have more of fpirit and fire than corredtnefs : a great and^ rapid genius appears in moO: of them ; fometimes not without u little extravagance. When this fchool was to be painted, other mailers belidcs himlclf, were to give in their ccfigns, for the middle part of the cieling of this Albcrgo : Tintoret took meafurc of the place, and before the reft had brought 70 V E N I C E. bi-OLi"hf their deiigns, he brought his pidture liiiifla'd ; and Cct it up; which was lb well approv'd, that he was unaninioufly chofen to do the whole. In Ibme vacancies between the paint- in^s, in the principal room, are fome fhelves of books cut in -wood, fo exadtly natural, that they perfedtly deceive the fight; the choice they have made of the woodexadlly reprefenting the • colour of their parchment bindings ; and old leaves, which are tumbled about, in a very well-fancied manner. On the flairs is a fine Annunciation of Titian. There are likewife two large pieces, one reprefenting a Plague, the other the de- liverance from it ; which is flievvn by a ray of light darting ■upon a Death, and upon another figure reprelenting the Plague : who, arm in arm, are taking flight. There is on the fame flairs, an infcription in marble, in memory of the great plague there in the year 1756 ; whicii I tranfcrib'd, and is as follows. 1756. Aloyfio Mocenico Principe Ven. SiKviebat pcjiifcra Lues, qua nulla unquam vel diuturnior, roel perfiiciojior extittt ; nojlroriim Crimmum ultrix. Pajjim urbe totd Cadavera jacere pro/Irata, Carbuncidis, Macu- lis, Biibonibufq ; horrentibiis obfejfa ; iifdem JEdib eddem hard, funcra funcribiis cofitinuari. Ub?q; Lac/iryfiia, Sufpiria, Sin- gultus;ubiq; totius civitatismiferabilis adfpeSlus. Civib. repen- te vel obeuntib. lel metu perterritis dulcem patriam dcfermtib. Denium aliquando Deipara Virgine ac Beatijjmo Rocho Deprc- catoribus, •vifa eji hcec Erynnis adeo trtjlis ac dira, extremo Menfe Decembris fcum Martio ccepiffct grojfari ac furercj rjimfere omnem amijijfe ; quo quidem temporis intervallo cmn Societatis nra cccc plus minus f rat res intercidijfent, iifdem ipfisfratr'ib. eorumq ; Familiis, prcejlantifimi Viri Dnici Ferro Magni Societatis Magijiri Siudium, Diligeniia, Benignitas, Charitas, mmq. fane defuit. ^li quidem tantam cladem hoc ipfo Manumcnto tcjlatam voluit, utq ; legens Pojicriias admt- retur, ingentemq; Venetor. multiiudinem pejlis crudclitate ab- Jumpt. piintif. lachrymis profequatur. J576. VENICE. J 576. " Wlien AloifioMocenigo was Doge of Venice," " Tl)ere raged a pcflilcntial contagion; tlian which none " ever was of longer continuance, none ever more dcllructivc; " the jull avcngement of our fins. " All over the city lay bodies of men that had dropt down dead, " ovcrfprcad with blotches, carbuncles, ar.d horrid buboes. The " fame houfe furnifli'd funerals upon funerals, [the fame day] " the iamc hour. On every fide were tears, fighs, and fobs; on. " every fide lamentable was the afpedl of the whole city. The " inhabitants, either fuddenly dying, or haftily defcrting their *' dear country, in fright and confiernation. At laft, thro' the. " intercefiioaof theVirgin-.Mother ofGod, and the moft blef- " fed S. Rock *, this fo fad and direful fury, which in March '•' had begun to fpread and rage, and the latter end of De- " cembcr fcemed to have loft almoft all her ftrength. In which *' interval of time 400, more or lefs, of the brothers of our fo- " ciety were cut oft; to whom and their families the con- " cern, diligence-, benignity and charity of tliat moft excellent " perfon Dominico Fcrro, Great Mafter of the Society, was " never wanting ; who li'cewife willed that this monument " (houldbcar witnefs of fo great a mortality; and that pofte- " rity may admire when they read it, and with pious tears " bewail the vaft multitude of Venetian citizens Iwept away " by the cruelty of this peftilence -j-." The fchool of S. Mark has a very rich front of marble ; in the pannels, between the pillars, are reprefented beautiful per- fpcctivcs, going really Rewards, into the marble; with the lion of S. Mirk, and other figures left ftanding ffirward^ in relievo. In this fchool are foine of Tintoret's bed performances ; which are truly fine. The mod remarkable of them reprefents the Ve- • It is remarkable that S. Rock, who himfelf ha] the plargue, is (for tliat reafon, I , I'.ippofe) always call'd upon in cafe of the plague or any infeftious dillcmper. So. S. Lucia is call'J upon for fore eyes, becaufe her eyes were put out ; and (he is painted lomctimes carryi^ig her eyes on a falvcr, or plate. For the fame rcalbn S. John Neo- pomuccnus is the patron of bridges, becaufe he was tumbled over the battlements of a bridge. t It ftcras that by the lofs in this fa;icty, that in the whole city i; intended to be co.niputed. netian: VENICE. netlans bearing awa}' the body of S. Mark ; which, by fonie revelation, they had difcover'd, and had newly dug out of the earth, at Alexandria in Egypt; and the Alexandrians hinder- ing their carrying away the body, there is reprefented a terri- ble ftorm, which arofe thereupon ; the lightning darting out of a black fky upon *em ; fon:ie ftruck down and fainting ; others running for fhelter under a large portico, and all in a terrible confufion : a fuhjedl fit for his rapid genius. There is repre- fented, in two other pidlures, another famous ftory relating to S. Mark ; which I think is told by fome of our voyage- writers; fo I forbear repeating it at large : it is that of a Gondolier taking on board him, in a grievous ftorm, three men, which prov'd to be S. George, S. Nicolas, and S. Mark j the faints allaying the fl:orm, by rebuking fome evil fpirits that had rais'd it ; and the laft faint giving him a ring, with orders to deliver it to the fe- nate. Thepidures which reprefent this ftoryare within the ^7- /)erga of thefchool; the former part, which fliewsthe florm, and the three faints, was painted byGiorgione; andthat of theGon- dolier delivering the ring to the fenate is by Paris Bordone. In this fchool, among their relicks, they fay they have one of the thorns with which they crovvn'd our Saviour. Contiguous to this fchool, is the church of S. John and S. Paul, where is that famous mafter-piece of Titian (prefer'd by Vafari to all his other works) reprefenting the murder of St. Peter Martyr, who, being Inquifitor in Lombardy, had made himfelf obnoxious by his feverities, and was murder'd not far from Milan : there is a rich chapel dedicated to him in the church of the Dominicans at Milan, where he is bu- ried. This admirable pidure is in very ill hands : thofe flo- venly monks negledl it fliamefully : it is painted on board, larger than the life J with a prodigious ftrength and fpiritj and moft admirably colour'd, both figures andlandfcape. Some of the lower part is crack'd and peel'd off, and the whole fcandaloufly dirty. It was done on a white priming ; as one may fee where the cracks and peelings are. The chapel of S. Orfola, near this church, is painted by Vidlor Carpaccio Venetiano, anno 1495. Tis of a dry man- ner, according to that age; but an excellent clofc purfuit of Nature. One half of the chapel is taken up with the flory of 5 i'omc VENICE rortiC Engliili ambaflaHors coming to treat with the father of the princefs Orfob, who was king of fomc place, to dttnand lier ill marriage for a king of England's Ion ; together with their departure, return into England, and making a report of their embally j and lalliy, the Englilh prince taking leave of his father, to go meet the princefs. (We meet fometimes in Italy with memorials of kings of England, which we tind no mention made of in our chronicles.] This princels after- wards became a martyr : and the reft of the chapel is taken up with that part of her ftory. In the church-yard of S. John and S. P.iul ftands, on a high ]iedeftal of marble, an equeftral ftatuc, in gilt copper, of Bar- tolomeo Coglioni of Bergamo, a valiant general of the V^cne- tians ; who had his fervices to this republick rewarded by poi- {on ; only becaufe he was become richer than thev car'd he Ihould be ; but when they had once got him out of the way, they did this honour to his memory. —Virt litem incohman odimus, Sublatam ex ocii/is qiicerimus inviJi. The fchool of the Carita. is the oldeft of all the reft ; and from this they took their model of forming the xonftitutions of the latter. This was firft founded in the year 1260, but reftored fince. The ftrudture of it is Gothick, and nothing fo beautiful as the above-mention'd. They have a great number of paintings within, of good modern mafters ; not thofe of the f.rll: rank. But in the Albergo is an admirable one of Titian, and very well preferved : it reprcfents the Prefentation of the BlelTed Virgin : flie is as a girl of ten or twelve years of age, going up a pair of ll:airs ; at the top of which the high priell llands ready to receive her. At the foot of the ftairs is a great train of company ; but, as is very ufual in the Italian compcfi- tions, the chronology is not at all regarded, for he has put there feveral ritratts of perf ns then living ; as he that was then great chancellor of Venice in his robes of fcarlet cloth ; and other great men of that time, in their proper habits. There is no- thing more common than thefe freedoms as to chronology; fo t!iat we often fee a Madonna and Bambino, with a S. Antony or S. Francis, or fome other favourite faint (to whom perhaps L the 74 VENICE. the chapel it adorns is dedicated) in the fame pidlure. There is an old woman that lits below, at the fide of the fteps in this pidure ; with a balTcet of eggs, and feme fowl ; which is the fineft piece of what we maj' call Low Life, that ever I faw. Among the reliques in this fchool they boaft of a piece of the Crofs, and of our Saviour's Garment. There are fix of what they call the Great Schools; and many fmaller ; feveral of which we faw : but thefe already men- tion'd may ferve as a fpecimen. The palaces of Venice (or at leaft what they call fo) are very numerous ; as for the architedture, to fay nothing of the old Gothic ones, which are fome of them very rich in that way, thofe built by Palladio and other celebrated architeds, are of a manner quite different either from the Roman or the Floren- tine ; both in the ornament of the front (which is indeed all the outfide ornament they have) and in the difpofition of the apart- ments within. The windows in many of them are, at leaft, four fquares in height, arch'd at the top, and reaching quite to the floor; with balconies before them, into which you pafs thro' the lower part of the window. All the parts of the window are made to open, from bottom to top ; for the let- ting in of air in the hot weather. The middle of the front is generally almoft all window j for the enlightening of a long portico or gallery, that paffes thro' the houfe in every flory. Out of this gallery you go into the apartments on each hand. The beft apartments are for the moft part up two pair of flairs J. fometimes I have feen them up three. Whether it be that they would have them further from the water, for the fake of their furniture; or that, not being given much to hofpitality, and fo not having frequent occafion to fliew them, they don't fo much mind the eafy accefs to thofe, as to the apartments they daily make ule of, I cannot tell ; for I could learn no other reafon for it, than that it was La Maniera, the fafliion of the place. They have fomestimes a ftory of high apartments, and another of what they call Mezzanine, which are low ones^ alternate : the former for ftate, the latter for ufe of the family. The floors are for the moft part of a red plaifter ; to which they give a glofs with oil, which makes them fo flippery, that 'cis hazardous to walk quick upon them, Inftead of the redj, . we VENICE. we have feen fome few of a whitilh colour, not unlike marble, and with bits of real marble united with the plaillcr along the furface, which looks cxxeeding well, and tlicv fay is very durable. The ground-lioor is generally a walle fort of a place; either for fome fort of wares, (for tho' the nobility are not to merchandize profefledly, yet they often join with the merchants in traffick) or for fuch lumbering utcnfils belong- ing to the houfe, as (oftentimes having no outlet) they have no other repofitory for. Sometimes, indeed, you fee the firfl: entrance handfomely adorn'd with Aatues ; or arms and trophies, where the mailer of the houfe has been a military man ; and, in fome few, with infcriptions, and curiofities of that kind. The paintings which I have menlion'd to be on the outfide of the houfes, are pretty much damaged; one would wonder indeed they are not all delkoy'd , confidering how long fome of them have been done, [two hundred years] Handing againft all the vicilfitudes of weather ; befides the vapours always ri- Ung from the fait water, and refling upon 'em. The Fantico de i Tedefchi [a general warehoufe of the Ger- man merchants] has been painted almolt all over the outfide, (and 'tis a large building) part byTitian, and part by Giorgione. There are, within this Fontico, a great many paintings by the beft Venetian niafters. For this warehoufe the Germans pay to the republick 130 ducats per day. A ducat is worth about y. bd. Englifh. There is one houfe painted very whimfically onthe outfide by Tintoret ; they call it " Hands and Feet ;" and 'twas upon this cccafion, asthey tell the llory there. WhenTintoret was making his draught upon the houfe, which he intended to have been pillars, and other ornaments of Architecture ; Paolo Veronefe happen'd to pafs by, and alk'd him, " What do you there " drawing thofe lines ? Make me Hinds and Feet." The other taking him at his word, alters the defign, and makes a parcel of hands and feet : huge Coloffal hands, bearing felloons of flowers and fruits : there are fome whole figures too. - There are feveral other houfes painted on the outfide, by Paolo Veronefe, Perdenone, the Palma's, and other celebrated Venetian mafters ; a little of whofe works we are fo glad to L 2 adorn 75 ^6 VENICE. adorn the infideof our houfes with, now a-days. Therlcheft furniture of the Venetian palaces is their paintings ; with which they are often well ftored. * There are We faw very good ones at feveral palaces of the * Grimani, f'xMiesZI Maniani, Graffi, Delfino, Pifani, Barberigo, and others. In thrt'name. one of the palaces of the Grimani [that near the Servi] is the moft celebrated piece of Paolo, of any that is in private hands. ]t is the Finding of Mofes ; the whole piece is very fine ; but what fliines moft, (as indeed it fliould) is Pharaoh's daughter. Befides the beauty of the lady's perfon, the exquifite delicacy of her drapery is furprifing. At two other palaces of the Grimani-family, there are feve- ral antique buds, and other pieces offculpture; at one of 'em- there is a theatre in the palace, for the rehearfal of operas ; this family being proprietors of two or three of the publick theatres. There are in the court of this palace feveral antique infcriptions and baflb-relievo's, and fome flatues. And within the palace there is a fort of Trihima, fomewhat in the manner of that of the Great Duke's at Florence; furnifh'd with fculp- tures, infcriptions, and feveral forrs of curiofities. At the other of the two laft mention'd Grimani-palaces, there is a I Thu Ca- portico painted all over by the cavalier Liberi -j-, whofe works valier Liberi, ^^^ niuch efleemcd at Venice •, feveral of his paintings are in Injei the churches. In the Loggietta under the Campanile di S. Marco ;.re fome pieces of him, which for colouring are cf- teemed little inferior to Titian. At the Palazzo Pifani is another much celebrated piece of Paolo Veronefe, it reprcknts Darius's tentj or rather his fa- mily; for the tent itfelf is not defcrib'd in the pidure. We have fome copies of it here in England. At the Palazzo Barberigo there is a r'ltratto of a Doge of that family, Marcus Barbadicus, Veil. Dux. 1485. And amongfl a great many other excellent pieces, they fhew'd us Titian's laft work; a S. Sebaftian left unfinifh'd by him. At the Palazzo Delfino is an admirable piece of Holbein ; 'tis called Sir Thomas Moore and his Family; but how truly I know not. The face is fomewhat fuller than thofe I have elfewhere feen of him by the fame author; and I think in other refpedts different from them. Befides, how the children reprefented in this VENICE. ^7 this pidlure fuit with the account of his family, I cannot tell. In the principal part of this pi<^iire ftands the Blefled Virgin, w ith the Bambino in her arms, which is done in a wonderful taly natural attitude; on one fide is Sir Thomas himfelf (if it be he) kneeling; by him are his two fons; one of them kneels; the other, who is an intant, is ftanding naked, fupported by his brother: on the other fide is the lady with her two daughters kneeling; and faying their beads: the little naked boy could hardly have been outdone (if I dare fay fuch a word) by Raphael himlelf. The ornaments of the young ladies heads, and other parts of their drefs, are finilh'd as neatly as thofe in his finallelt pieces : the fize of this is what (I think) they call half life, or rather lefs. It is painted upon board. The owner values it at 3000 fequins, or 1500 guineas. I have {<:zn a fine drawing of it imported lately * into England, perform'd * J'''* *'• by Bikhcp in foot- water; wherein the likenefs of the counte- '^I',,^" nances, as well as the juftnefs of the attitudes, is very well preferv'd. The flcor of the hall in this palace, is of the lighter- colour'd plaifter, and fo well laid, that it looks like one con- tinued marble. The cieling and fides of it are painted in Frcfco by the Cavalier Bambini, who was there with us, and told us he periorm'd it in fifteen days. There is an old rich fenator, Sacredo, who, as we were told, has the finefi: coUedlion in Venice, of paintings, drawings, fculptures, and all forts of curiofities; but either his real or pretended fcruples of flate would not fuffer us to fee 'em. Their policy won't allow any of their nobles to have the lealt convcrfation with any foreign miniftcr; this gentleman's c.;uiicn carried it fo far, that, becaufe we had convers'd with the refiJent of our nation, he would not converfe with us, nor funcr us to come into his houfe. One day he was coming to !ce a French painter in our neighbourhood, and was got half <\ay up llairs ; but being told my Lord Parker's valet de chambre was there, he hurried down flairs again as if the houfe had been on fire. At*C^. Capcllo Senatorio, as they call it, ('tis the houfe of*Ca. to, Signior Capello a fenator) we faw a great many curiofities in Mofaick, painting, fculptures, antiquities, medals, cameo's, and abundance of rarities, natural and artificial ; all coilecfted 7? VENICE. by himfelf. An intire urnmy, and great vanty of i'Egyp- tian idols. A large old Reman plate in copper with the names of the Decuriones, when L. Marius Maximus, and L. Rofclus ^lianus were Confuls. My Lord Parker has an impreflion of the plate. A Centaur : the body of the human body, and the buttocks of the horfe part, are two pearls of thofe two forms : that which reprefents the human body, anfwers ex- treamly well, both bread: and back. A nail half iron, half gold ; \\hich the gentleman told us was done by tranfmuta- tion : and alledg'd further, that iron and gold would not unite, as the parts of that do. They fiiew'd one formerly of the fame kind at the Great Duke's at Florence; but forbear fhewing it now : And there are thofe who think this gentleman might as well forbear {hewing his too. He had bear-fkins fpread before each of the cabinets, where the rarities were, for warmth of ftanding on thofe plaifter floors; for the Venetians (as indeed all the Italians) are very fparing of their fire. I hope this gentleman far'd no worfe with the Inquifitors of (late for his civility, than the other did fftr his morofenefs. At an advocate's houfe, Sieur Giovanni Battifla Rota, we faw a very fine colle(5tion of paintings, and fome fculptures : the principal of his pidures is a Holy Family, which he call'd a Raphael, but I believe it certainly to be of Julio Romano, his chief difciple. The BlefTed Virgin has a fine countenance; great fweetnefs about the mouth, and a fine hair of the head : the cheeks of the Chrifl are very ruddy : the hair of hini and the S. John are both yellow ; the latter a darker than the other. His felling price of it he fix'd at 600 fequins, or 300 guineas : and told us it had been valued at double that price. He has four figures equally curious in their way, by Andrea Mantegna, in Diflemper; Chiaro Olcuro, on a gold ground: they are finifh'd with the utmofl neatnefs ; the draperies finely difpos'd, and not fo flifr as fome of his things are. An- other in oil by the fame hand : 'tis the portrait of a Cardinal, with a letter diredted to him ; the writing fo fmall as not to be read without a glafs, unlels it be with very good eyes in- deed. There is an admirable baflb-relievo in white marble, by Puget, the Allumption of the Blefled Virgin; the draperies very finely difpos'd ; the Naked of the angels, 6cc. exceeding tender VENICE. tender and foft : one of the angels is dcfign'd much in Cor- regio's llyle. Another AfTumption, in painting, fo I venture to call the fingle perlbn of the Madonna, there being (as I re- member) no angels in this piece : for 'tis done by the Cavalier Lanfranc ; and is the very fame figure with that of the Ma- donna in his famous Aflumption in the church of S. Andrea in Valle at Rome, Thefe, with abundance of other fine things lie has, were part of the Duke of Mantua's coUcdlion. At a merchant's houfe, Sieur Natale Bianchi, we faw as good a col- ledlion of piftures as in any private hand. The principal of ihem was a Venus and a Cupid holding a looking-glais, by Titian. 7 his pidure is certainly the very perfedlion of colour- ings efpecially the Cupid. He told us he had been offer'd a thoufand piftoles for it. We have feen two more of the fame dcfign, and by the fame author; one at the Palazzo Barberigo at Venice, and another at the Palazzo Odefkalchi at Rome; fince fold, with the reft of that fine colledlion, to the late Regent of France. It is very ufual with the mafters to repeat their favour- ite defigns; as Paolo Veronefe frequently did that of Europa and the bull. This merchant married his wife out of the hofpital of the Incurabile. She fings admirably well, as the gentleman who introduc'd us there, told us : but we were not fufFer'd either to hear or fee her. There are in Venice four of thefe female hofpitals; this of the Incurabile, the Pieta, Ofpitalletto, and theMcndicanti. Infants are receiv'd into thefe hoipituls ; into the Incurabile (originally dcftin'd to another ufe) not without a fum given with them; into the Pieta, and the other two, as I take it, without any. Thofe who would chcofe for a wife one that has not been acquainted with the world, go to thefe places to look for 'em; and they generally take all the care they can, they fliall be as little acquainted with the world afterwards. Thofe put into the Pieta are generally baftards, There are a prodigious num- ber of children taken care of in this hofpital : they fay they amount fometimes to at leaft fix thouland ; and that before the erection of this charity, multitudes us'd to be found which had been thrown into the canals of the city. Every Sunday ajid holiday there is a performance of mufick in the chapels of 3 t:iefe 79 So ' VENICE. thele holpitals, vocal and inftrumental, perform'd by the young women of the place; who are fet in a gallery above, and (tho' not profefs'd) are hid from any diflinft view of thofe below, by a lattice of iron-work. The organ-parts, as well as thofe of the other inilruments, are all perform'd by the young women. They have an eunuch for their mailer, and he compofcs their mufick. Their performance is furprifingly good; and many ex- cellent voices there are among them : and there is fomewhat ftill more amufing, in that their perfons areconceal'd from view. When we were at one of thefe folemnities at the Pieta, there was perform'd the ceremony of blefling the Holy Water; which is done by fprinkling fait into it, in the form of a crofs : fometimes they drop in fome oyl, and immerge a blefs'd wax- taper; repeating at the fame time fome prayer, " That it may " prevail againft all evils, witchcraft, llorms, fire, and all " powers of the devil, &c." As loon as the ceremony is over, the people come in (lioals, to fetch it away, in kettles, pitchers, flalTvS, &'c. to carry it to their houfes. A fmall veflel of it is always plac'd by their bed-fi^e, for the croffing themfelves at lying down, and rifing. And at fett times of the year the priells come and blefs the whole houfe, going through all the chambers, and fprinkling the Holy Water. This ufe of the Holy Water doubtlefs arofe from the d^ua hjlralis of the ancient heathens; who had it always at the entrance into their temples and other places. The Lap- landers (I think) have a way of warming their devotion, by placing a velTcl of brandy, at the entrance into their churches; and every one that goes in takes a fup. The Arfenal of Venice they call three miles in compafs; but we muft allow fomewhat for their ufual exaggeration. It is large indeed, and well ftor'd with all warlike provifions. It's encompafs'd with a flrong wall; on which are feveral little towers, where they keep guard in the night; as well to watch againft any fire or other accident within, as to prevent any furprize from abroad. Large asit is, there are buttwo entrances into it, and thofe very near together one by water, for the veflels to pafs in and out ; and the other by land. The land- entrance is adorn'd with marble pilafters; and ilatueson them, by pretty good hands ; but the truly noble ornaments of this entrance V ]• N I C 1'. 8t entrance are two great antique lions of marble, broiiLjht from Athens ; under one of them is wrote this infcription. ]• RANCISCUS -MAUROCENUS PELOPONESIACUS EXPUGNATIS ATHENIS MARMOREA LKONUM SIMULACRA TRIUMPHALI MANU E FIR/EO DIREPTA IN PATRIAM TRANSTULIT, FUTURA VENETI LEONIS QXJJE FUERANT MINERV^E ATTIC/E ORNAMENTA. Under the other, ATHENIENSIA VENETAE CLASSES TROPH^A VENETI SENATUS DECRETO IN NAVALIS VESTIBULO CONSTITUTA ANNO SALUTIS MDCLXXXVII. There is a third little one, and under it only thefc two words, EX ATTICIS. The fum of thefe infcriptions is, that thefc marble lions were triumphantly brought from Athens by FrancefcoMorofini, in the year 1687, and by decree of the Venetian fenate plac'd at the entrance into their Arfenal. Within this Arfenal they build their fhips, caft all their can- non, balls and bombs, make their powder, anchors, fails, cables, and all other provifions for war: fo that 'tis a general work-houfe as well as a ware-houfe, and repofitory for them. We faw feveral fine cannons, of which fome were caft when the kings of France, Denmark, &c. [at different times] were there. All materials were got ready, and the cannon caft while the king was at dinner. The principal matter wherein the furniture of this Arfenal differs from that of other places of the like nature, is the famous Buccntaur and Galeaffes. In the Buccntaur the Doge goes annually to marry the fca, a well- known ceremony : this is done at the feaft of the Afcenfion ; when there is a little fort of Carnaval of about a fortnight's continuance, being a time of maiking and other diverfions. The Buccntaur has forty-two oars, four men to an oar ; there is a feat at the upper end for the Doge, others on each fide for M the 82 VENICE. the Council of Ten : below is a double row of benches for the Senate. On the outfide there is a border or frieze of pretty good baflb-relievo that goes round it. The Galeafles have fifty-four oars a-piece, feven men to an oar. Thefe Ga- leafles are perfedt floating caftles ; they generally have in each of them I coo men and loo pieces of cannon. The captains of them are call'd governors ; and are always noble Venetians. Here likewife we faw fome machines they call Camels ; which are us'd for bearing fhips over fliallows.or raifing them up when »Capt. Ban- they are funk. One* was fo rais'd while we v/cre at Venice; EngfimmTn. They are, I think, in ufe. in Holland; and, if fo, can be no rarity to thofe among us who are vers'd in naval affairs. But the Venetians fay, that theirs are an improvement upon thofe of the Dutch ; and much better in feveral refpedls. However the Venetians may abound in falt-water, they are ill put to it through the want of frefh. All the frefli water they have is either what they rcferve from rain, or bring from the river Brenta : and this they keep in cifterns, or wells made for that purpofe; which are generally furrounded.with.a handfome para- pet of marble. The water brought from the Brenta is not put diredliy into the wellj but by a hole, at fome diflance from it, is convey 'd into a fort of refervoir ; which (as I was inform'd) is fsparatcd from. the well, by a bed of chalk-ftones ;. through which the water is, as it were, flrain'd, or filter'd into the well : by which means it is freed from any filth or ill tadc which it may have contradled. And this is necelfary j becaufe the hole abuvc-ni-ention'd is fa pluc'd', as to receive a good deal of the rair,--.vater that falls upon the Campo, where the well is plac'd. Thcfe wolls are interfpers'd at fuitable diftances in the publick parts of the town; for the convenience of the neighbouring inhabitants : there are two fine ones in the great" court of the Doge's palace, well adorn'd with fculpture. And in the convent of the Frari there is a noble one dedicated (as in the infcription) DEO UNI ET TRINO OMNIUM BO- NORUM FONTI. " To GOD THREE-ONE, the foun- tain of all good." The three Holy Perfons are cxprefs'd in fculpture. It has a cohering fupported with pillars, and is ibxnewbat like that in Vignola's archite<fture. There V E N I C E. 8j There is *a ^^rcv.i n;-pantus and fuleninity for t];e initking of their famous mediciml treacle at Venice : the ingredients are cxpos'd to publick view for fonie days before they are put together, and a-e likcwift; infpevfted (as we were told) by cer- tain perfons fvvorn to examine them. We one day faw thetn -ict out in great order, 64 fever<d forts, at the entrance into an apothecary's fliop ; 32 on each hand, in regular partitions. The infpeiftors are not only to examine the quality of the fe- veral drugs, but liktwife to be prt fent at every circumllance of the compofition, to fee that all be fair and right. The manner of pounding them is very regular : we faw a double row of men at work with their mortars, upon the afcent of the Rialto bridge ; all keeping time as duly, as if it had been a concert of mufick. Our apothecaries difpute the point with them, and fay they can mike as good here, as any that's made at Venice. I think they allow the Venetians to have fome- what the better of it, as to one of the ingredients (and I doubt a principal one) the vipers : but for the reft, and the procefs of the compofition, they fay we at leafl: equal, if not outdo them. This is eafy for them to fay ; tho' I know forne, who have taken enough of both forts to perceive a confidera- ble difference, give much the preference to the Venetian. But, whatever our improvements have been with regard to the treacle manufacture, we certainly have come up with them as to glailes, and far outdone them too, by all that I cou'd fee at Murano; which is an ifland at a fmall diftance from Venice, where the glafs-works are. There are more theatres in Venire than in any city of Italy that I have heard of: there are feven for operas, bcfides others S- J- ChrjoiT- for comedies, Sec. There were operas in three of them, when s°"samueie we were there. The theatres are the properties of fcveral s. Giovanni noblemen. That of S. John Chryfcftom belongs to one of the ^ ^^°^°-^^ Grimani-families : and the fame family has likewife two others! Moyfe.' theatres, S. Samuel, and S. Jchn and S. Paul, the greateft in ^- Pant'n- Venice. The theatres take their names from the neigh- g.' Lucafor bouring churches, and tho' they are in general the pro- comedies, perty of fuch and fuch noblemen, yet ethers have boxes as their inheritance, purchas'd of the general proprietor of the theatre ; and of thefe they keep the keys themfelves. But bc- M 2 fora 84 VENICE. fore you can come at your box, there is fomewhat to be paid (about 1J-. 6d. Englifti) for entrance into the theatre. There are no open galleries, as in London, but the whole from bot- rom to top is all divided into boxes, which one with ano- ther will contain about fix perfons each. They have a fcan- dalous cuftom there, of fpitting out of the upper boxes (as well as throwing parings of apples or oranges, &c. upon the company in the pit, a praftice frequent enough here,) which- they do at random, without any regard where it falls ; tho' it fometimes happens upon fome of the beft quality j who tho' they have boxes of their own, will often come into the pit, either for better feeing the company, or fometimes to be nearer the ftage, for the better hearing fome favourite fongs> Indeed as to feeing the company in the Venetian theatres there is not much entertainment in that ; for, not a face is to be feen ; but the chief amufement is, to find out, through the difguife of the mafque, who fach and fuch a one is, which thofe that are accui^omed to the place can very readily do. Thofe that make ufe of books to go along with the perfor- mance, have commonly wax-candles in their hands; which, are frequently put out by favours from above. 'Tis very ufual there to fee priells playing in the Orcheftra : the famous Vivaldi (whom they call the Pi-ete rojfo) very well known among us by his concertoes, was a topping man among them. They are very dextrous at managing the machinery of their operas. In one of them Nero prefents Tiridates king of Armenia with a Roman fliow, of which himfelf makes a part. The emperor with the emprefs appear in a triumphal chariot, drawn by an elephant. The head, trunk, and eyes of the great beaft move as if alive, and Tiridates believe he is fo. V/hen, all of a fudden, as foon as the emperor and emprefs are difmounted and have taken their' feats, the triumphal chariot is transform'd into an amphitheatre, and fill'd with fpe(fl:ators. The elephant falls all in pieces, and out of his belly come a great number of Gladiators, arm'd with bucklers, which were fo many parts of the elephant's fides, fo that he feems in a moment to be transform'd into a company of arm'd men, who make a fkirmifli, all in time to the mufick. We VENICE. 85 We fliw another piece of machinery. In a vail hall were reprefented the four elements, emblematically, in pidlure; thefe opening themfelves, form'd two palaces, thofe of Love and Hymen, thele again were transform'd into the palace [or temple] of Mars, all furrounded with weapons of war. This fcene was fo hnely imagin'd, and the lights fo well difpos'd that I think it was the mofl: entertaining light I ever favv upon a ftage. The Intermezzi (or intermediate performances) which they have in fome of their fmaller theatres between the adls, are very comical in their way, which is fomewhat low, not much unlike the farces we fee fometimes on our ftage. They laugh, fcold, imitate other founds, as the cracking of a whip, the rumbling of chariot wheels, and all to mufick. Thefe In- termezzi are in Recitativo and fong, as the operas are. But, fuch entertainments, between the adts of an opera, fomewhat like it in the manner, but different in the fubjedi, feem to inter- rupt the unity of the opera itfelf ; and if they will have fuch laughing work, it fliou'd feem better at the end of the en- tertainment ; as xht petite piece in France, at the end of their comedy, and the farces with us fometimes are. Their tragedy borders upon the bombaft ; and the comedy is much upon the fame fpeed in the theatre as it is on the mountebanks flage. The principal charadlers, and without which no comedy will pafs among them, i. e. Harlequin*, the Dodtor, Pantalone and Covielli are now well known here. All thefe fpeak different dialeds. The firll fpeaks Bergamofco, (reckon'd the worll dialcdl in Italy) the 2d Bolognefe, the 3CI \'enet an, and thelaftNeapolitan. They have likewifeFenochio, a pimp, who fpeaks Bergamofco too. However it paffcs in other parts of Italy, 'tis pretty odd that in Venice, where the no- blemen are fo jealous of their honour, they fhou'd fuffer Pan- talone -f- to be the cully of the play : for that is the name the noblemen themfelves go by. I have heard the etymology of it (whether true I cannot tell) that it comes from plantare kotiemt; becaufe that wherever any place becomes fubjedl J Or piantare Hone. • Harlequin is alfo call'd Trufaldin, or fometimes Baggatino, but the charaiHer is t)ie rime. Covielli is tnc fame as Scaramouche. t Thev perfonate pretty nearly the very drcfs of them too, as well as language. 3 to S6 V E N I C E. .to them, thoy do there platitare leonem, plant or fet up tin -lion of S. Mark, the enfign of their dominion. The Italian gravity feems to require fomev/hat very comi- cal to move their mirth. And this fort of comedy feems to hit them very well in that refpcft : for 'tis plcafant to fee, with what extended necks, what open mouths, and what prick'd-up ' t Suo mihi em-c^- they catch at the iokes, and bulls, and blunders. Ur.- rexit Aiires. ving mention d ears, it puts me in mind or lomething pecu- Pkut. li^j. ip, thg £21.3 of the Venetians, which in many of them are fl;anding out, and fpread, like little wings, on each fide their head; fo that you fee the very hollow of their ears almoft fronting with the fcre-right view of their face. This is fcen fully in the Barkerls [or Gondoliers] who have only caps, and fliort hair: and the fame may poflibly be cover'd under many a full-bottomed peruke. The only time for opera's at Venice is the Carnaval, or perhaps fometimes about the Afcenfion. Thofe time of m.ai'k- ing are the dear delight of the Venetians ; and the approach of the Carnaval feems to be to them, as the approach of the fun to the Polar Nations after their half year's night. The molt common mafking drefs is a cloak, a Baout, and a white mafk : this drefs with a hat over all is the general one for both {^yit^y women as well as men. The Baout is a fort of hoed of black filk, which comes round the head, leaving only an opening for the face, with a border of black filk lace which falls about the fhoulders. The white mafic comes no lower than the bottom of the nofe, the Baout covers the rert. Some- times they have a whole mafk punted with the natural co- lours ; in the mouth-part of which the women place a ftone- ring, to hold their mafic on with, the fione glittering on the outfide, as it were to accompany the fparkling of their eyes. As the Carnaval advances, the drefs grows more various and whimficai : the women make themfelves nymphs and fliepherdeffes, the men fcaramouches and punchinello's, with twenty other fancies, whatever firfl comes uppermoft. For further variety, they fometimes change fexes ; women appear in men's habits, and men in wonien's, and fo are now and then pick'd up, to the great difappointment of the lover. In thefe various difguifes they go, not only into alfcmblics withia VENICE. 87 within doors, butpublickly all the city over : and during ihe Carnaval 'tis fo much the drefs of the fealbn, that whether upon vifits, or any other occafion, they go continually in malque. Their general rendezvous is the Piazza di S. Marco, which, large as it is, is perfedlly thronged with them ; from thence they march in flioals to thcRidotto, which is not far off. Here none is to enter that fliews a human face, except their Excellencies, who keep the bank at the baflet-tables. In other places people wrty mask, but here they ninjl: what is a privi- lege only in otlier places, is here turned to an obligation ; perhaps for the better maintaining that appearance of equa' lity which is requifite to the profefs'd liberty of the place ; That is a reafon I have heard given for it : And thus a tinker, by virtue of his mafquc, may come to a baflet-table, and fet a ducat with one of the princes of the people. Nothing fure can affedl the Stoick more than a nobleman behind one of thefe baflet-tables : they would feem unmoved by either good or bad fortune: but I have fometimes feen the apathy fail a little, and the contrary dilcoverit fclf in fome involunta- ry contradlion of the mufcles. All is tranfadled with a great deal of filence : and I have feen large fums won and loft with- out a word fpeaking. Generally he that keeps the bank is the winner ; and it may be reafonably concluded, without enquiry into the chances of the game, that the odds lie on the banker's fide; fince the noblemen fecure that privilege to themlelves : Tho' 'tis poflible for another to keep a bank by proxy, for there nre noblemen that will do it for you for \tv\pcr cent, of tlie winnings. The Ridotto makes a pretty odd appearance at firfl light. There are leven or eight roums which I remember, and I believe there are more. The place is dark and lilent, a few glimmering tapers v/ith a half light fliew a fft of beings, flalking along with their pale faces, which lor k like fo many death's heads poking out through black pouches ; fo that one would almoll imagine himfelf in fome enchanted place, or fome region of the dead. But there are thofe to be found thera who, it you have a mind, will foon clear your doubts, and let you know they are true flcfh and blood. Play and intrigue are tile two aftairs of the place : he that has more money than he cr.rcs for, needs O!:!.;- tjep afide to a bafTet-tabJe, . where tlia noble- 88 VENICE. nobleman who keeps the bank will foon eafe him of his fu- perfluous load. Others, who are for forming or carrying on intrigues may without much difiiculty find what they (e.-ik, and fomewhat more perhaps than what they \vi(h. With- out doors, puppet-fliews, rope-dancers, mountebanks and aftrologers are bufy at work all the day long. Thefe laft dif-' penfe deftinics thro' a tin trumpet plac'd at the ear of the in- quifitive patient ; who ftands trembling below on the ground, while the other is exalted on a little fort of ftage, and thence in an inclined poiiure with his mouth at the other end of the trumpet pronounces vjhM fiall or JI:aIl not be. On JovediGraJfo (the Thurfday immediately precedingLent) all Venice is perfectly in an uproar ; the public frenzy, which from the beginning of the Carnaval has had a fort of gradual increafe, feetns now to be at its utmofl: height. Now we fee a thoufand odd difguifes, fuch as each one's caprice fuggefts ; with diverfions as boifterous and noify without doors, as be- fore we had feen quiet and filent within. Young fellows dri- ving bulls all about the town, along thole narrow alleys, (for moll of their ftieets, as I obferved above, are but fuch) hollow- ing in fuch a frantic manner as tho' they were endeavouring to make the hearts they follow as mad as themfelves. 'Tis not a very fafe curiofity to be in the way of them. Thus thev hurry them to the CaKipo's (the more open parts of the city) where they bait them after as extravagant a manner ; not ty- ing them to a ftake, but dragging them with cords ; and fome- times dragg'd by them, as the fury of the heart; adds to his flrength, while three or four great dogs are fet all at once up- on them, to catch at their cars, or any part, 'tis all one. The grand Ihews are in the Piazzetta, juft before the Doge's palace ; one of them looks more like an execution than a di- verfion ; or 'tis (if you pleafe) a pompous piece of butchery. A decollation of three bulls, which are led there in great rtate. Gunners, ^^rrounded with the Bombardieri -f-, halberdiers, and a world thofehave ' of Other armed attendants; drums beating, and trumpets found- fomekindof i,,^ before them. Thofe that perform the feat have a great halberds too, /-,/-, r -iii- r~- n with matches iv^ord ot three or tour inches broad; lome afliftants hold the twifted about head, and others the tail of the animal ; which befides keep- ing him fteady (for there is no block under) puts the parts of the V E N r C K. 89 tiic neck to a full ftrctch, and with one blow tiic executioner fcparntcs the head from the body. The name of execution beil fiiits the performance, if the account which they give be true, of the rife of this tultom. About nine hundred years ago the patriarch of Aquileia in Friuli, with twelve of his vicars, re- bcll'd againfl; the ft.itc of Venice; they were taken and behead- ed in the Piaz^.a di S. Marco ; and every year for fome time after, a bull and twelve hogs had their heads flruck off", for continuing the remembrance of it : but the aftair of the hogs looking too much like a joke, they fome time after fublHtuted in tlieir room two more bulls; fo that now three bulls are thus iacrificcd every year. Others call this not a rebellion, but a hot war; in which the Venetians took the patriaicli prifoner ; but gave him his liberty, on condition that he (hould (end yearly to \'cnice, on the fame day that the vidory was got, twelve wild boars, which with a bull fhould be kill'd before the general alicmbly, by way of facrifice. This vidory was obtain'd when Angelo Partitiato was Doge, in the beginning, as I take it, of the ninth century. Another -j- entertainment is what they call the vo/a, or fly- , -. * ing. A boy Hides down a rope, in a flying pofture from the wrotethis, wc Campanile of S. Mark with a nolegay in his hand, to a window I'avL-been of the Doge's palace, into which he enters, prcfents the nofe- ac)i'uain"tcd gay to his ferenity, and up again he mounts like a Ganymede, with this en- by the help of a cord, by which he is drawn up the fame rope J^'l^Xo.' lie came down by. Another vola they have upwards on the back of a Pegafus, fliooting oA'pirtiols in the midfl; of their flight. But what to me was the mod agreeable fpeftacle, was the Force of Hercules, focall'd, but not very properly ; for 'tis a performance rather of flight than flrcngth : I mean the excrcife of the young fellows, who build thcmfelves up into a kind of pyramid, as Mr. Addifun truly terms it, Ave or fix (lories high. Tiiat gentleman's account, which perfedlly defcribes the manner of it, makes it needlefs for me to enlarge upon it. The agility wherewith they perform it, is very pleafing ; as is the variety of their pofltions, which I cannot pretend to defcribe. All their fcvcral changes are made without the leaft diforder or confuflon ; for this fett of felf-builders Diruit, cedijicat-t mutat quadraia rotiindii, N do 90 VENICE. do hulld, unbuild and build again, ftill varying their figure, and all with thegreateft adivity. This, when Ifawit, was done before the Doge's palace ; but 'tis fometin:ies perform'd in a boat on the great canal. On the Sunday following, the Doge's pa- lace was become a perfedl amphitheatre for the Caccia delTau- roy in plain Englifli a bull-baiting. The poor animal is turned loofe into the court of the palace, and an unmerciful number of dogs at once fet upon him ; you fee dogs, bulls, and •^OrGondo- Barkerolls*, all in a heap together, within his Serenity's court; lows' that row but this is to be taken as another inftance of the Venetian li- the Gondolas, beny^ where the meaneft of the people may make thus free, with their prince j tho' it does not come up to that before- mentioned, of the perfuming of his ftair-cafes. And now the fatal day drew near, when the mafque, and all its attendant diverfions were to be laid afide : for, to the Piaz- za di S. Marco now they come, not to fee bull-baiting and rope-dancing, but to be fprinkled by the prieft with afhes. Un grail Pajfagio ! A great change ! as a nobleman of Bologna exprefled himfelf to me upon the occafion. This puts me in mind of a remark I have Ibmewhere read or heard, faid to be made by fome remote Indian, who was at Venice, during the time of the Carnaval ; that the people of Venice, about the be- ginning of the new year, are feized with a fort of phrenzy or madnefs : which goes on ftill increafing, till a certain day, on which a grave perfon, by fprinkling a fort of powder on their head, brings 'em all to their fenfes again. Another entertainment they have, a pretty robufi: one, which is not annual, nor confin'd to the Carnaval, but exhibited upon fome extraordinary occafions, as when a fovereign prince, or great embaffador is there ; it is ihtGuerrade'Pugne, a pitch'd battle at fifty-cuffs between the Caftellani and Nicoloti [inhabi- tants of the diftrids {f fe/lieri they call them) di Caftello and S.Nicholas.] Their Campus Martins is fome bridge, generally that of the Carmine, or S. Barnabas: from whence, as there are no battlements, they oft plunge one another into the canal, where ladders are plac'd for them to get out again, and rally. They us'd cudgels heretofore, but that proving often fatal» they were fince confin'd to the fill. + Venice is divided into fix regions or diftrias, which from ihe number of the whole are each of them call'd a Selliero, or fixth part. There VENICE. gj There Is a fworn inveteracy between thefe two parties ; and is fo entail'd upon their children, that even the boys, when they meet, battle eacli other. This enmity is encourag'd, and induftrioully kept up by the fenate; who, apprehenlive of the force of an unanimous people, ill-treated by their governours, do this to weaken and divide them j who if they knew, and confider'd their numbers, might become formidable to the no- bles. And as they do by this means make the people really weaker than they would be, fo they have another artifice to make themfelves appear ftronger than they are : for, the -f- Ci- | of this or- (aJini are ailow'd to wear the robe of the nobles, and all their ^" t^ore win habit, except ihtjiola, a little piece hanging from their flioul- ^r '^"^ ^^''^' der, which does not make a diltindion very obfervable. And " of this, fome aflign the reaibn : " That it isto make the num- " her of the nobles apj-car the greater, fo that the people may " not be ll-nfiblc how few they arc that govern them." Tho' I have heard a different reafon given, That the nobles, confci- ous how ill they deferve of the people, and apprehenfive of the efFcd:s of their refentment ; think they would be a readier and more diftinguifli'd mark, if themfelves alone did wear the robe: and that therefore they wifli it rtiould be known, as it very well is, that all are not noble who wear the noble robe ; and fo if a Plebeian fliould have a mind to oblige a Pantalone (one or other, for they are hated all alike) with a flilettata ;|:, he % Ailabwith might not pofljbly be fo free to give it ; as not knowing lureJy '.'■'^ 'liietto, a now, whether he be a Pantalone or no. Thus did the an- j" ' °" " cient Romans provide for the fafeguard of their ancyle, by making a number of fali'e ones, that fo the true one might not be fo eafily fix'd upon. As the nobles ftudy to divide the populace, io they affedl to fliew asmuchequalityamongthcmfelves, as there can be among fuch different fortunes in the fame order : Fo."-, as fome of them are vaftly rich, fo others are miferably poor. Thefe are the Barnabotes; fo call'd from the neighbouring church [S. Bar- nabas] where the poor habitations of many of them are. And that they may appear lei's deipicable, the others fhew not that grandeur themlelves in their own equipage, as their fortunes would well allow them to do. And that all may be obliged to this equality, they have magiftrates, Sopra inte?2dentl delle M 2 Pompe, 92 VENICE. Pcmpe, fomewhat like the Roman cenfors, who are to take care it beobferv'd. The robe of the nobles is of black cloth, or bays ; it is or fliould be the manufadureof Padua, as has been before obferved : 'Tis not much unlike our lawyers gown. In the winter they have one fac'd with furr, and bound with a gir- dle of the fame about their waift. They have no hat, bu: a woollen cap in the fliape of a deep crown of a hat ; but they very rarely wear it, otherwife than under their arm : for they wear large full-bottom'd perukes j. which they all have of one fort or other ; but I have it^n many a cherry-tree adorned with as good as fome of them. The gayer fort of them, ef- pecially fuch as have travell'd, are not at all in love with their drefs, but would much rather be equipt with hat and fword, as the gentlemen of other places are, if their laws would allow iti but the power that attends their drefs reconciles them pretty well to. it. Thefe noblemen (as coinpofmg the ariftocracy) look upon themfelves as fo many princes ; and all perfonal ad- dreffes are made to them with the title of Eccellenza : their fubjedls, how little foever they love them, fliew. them great outward refpedl. When a nobleman and tradefman, that know one another, are near meeting, I have feen the latter make a ftand (a little out of the way) and make a low reverence ; not raifmg himfelf till the other is part: him ; and, as he pafTes by pro- nounces the word Eccellenza. The magnificence of the rich fhewsit felf in their fine houfes and furniture ; not as I could hear in their houfe-keeping, anymore than in their drefs or equipage -, for tho' their fumptuary laws do extend to their table, as well as other matters, there feems nogreat force needful to re- train luxury in that : for they are naturally fparing enough in that refpedt : and the greateft of them are fuch oeconomirts in afcertaining the expence of their table, that they agree with their cook to furnifh them out fo many diflies at fuch a certain price. One of them, who kept a French cook, (he afterwards fciv'd my lord Parker) and would have eighteen dilhes on his table every day, allow'd but eighteen lire a-day, [that is, fomething lefs than eighteen fixpences Englifli] to do it with. A couple of eggs, or a little fried parfley would help to make out the number. If fome of them live well as to themfelves, they very rarely make entertainments for others : and thi^ clofe- VENICE. 93 clolenefs extends itfelf, not only to ftranges, whom the policy of the place makes them fliy of converfing with, but even to one another ; fo that when they have a mind for a merry meet- ing, they have it not at their own houfcs, but at a third place, where they pay their club alike. A houfe where we lodg'd, jointly kept by a French cook and confedtioner, was fome- times their rendezvous. The noble ladies are allow'd but little finery any more than the men : tiiey are by their laws to go all in black too: they are to wear no jewels, except the firll year after marriage : A gold chain, or fome pearl about the wrift, is the chief orna- ment that's allow'd, and the moft ordinary tradefmen's wives make fhift to get fomewhat of that fort. Thefe laws are very ftrift, and the noble Ladies do for the mofl: part comply with ' them; becaufe there is now and then a Superintendant that puts them in execution againft all perfons ; tho' generally the magiftrates wink at the noble ladies who happen to tranfgrefs. Upon extraordinary occafions, as when fome fovereign prince is there, the fumptuary laws, or the laws of the Pomp, (as they call 'em,) are I'ufpended for that time.; at other times the fine jewels which fome of 'em are poflefs'd of, are never to fee light within the city; and out of it they rarely go, the rather, be- caufe the fituation of the place allowing no coach, and their policy no equipage at home ; both, if they would go abroad, mull be fet up on purpofe to make a figure, there, and at their return home would become wholly ufelefs. We faw a Ve- netian lady at Reggie, the prociirateffa Fofcarini, [procura- tor Fofcarini's lady] who for finenefs of jewels outflionc all the princeffes there, even the bride* herfelf, I think. Her jewels * The [then] arc faid to be worth 50GOO pounds fierling, which at her return Pril^c^sof^ home were all to be buried in the cabinet. The procurator her Modena. hufljand was he, who, as I mention'd before, prefided at our ^'"'' P 3°- feeing the trealliry of S. Mark.. As the Venetian ladies can ufe no coaches, a fmall matter furniflies out their appearance in the city; a Gondola (cover'd with bhick, ns their pei Ion's are) with a couple of fellows to rov/ it, does the bufinel's. Nor do any other fervants ever attend tliem in their Gondola's, except a female guard upon the lady when fiie goes to mafs, which is the aiofl frequent occafion they go abroad upon ; and we often fee 94 VENICE. fee 'em v/ith their book in their hand faying over their offices, as they pafs by in their gondola's. The noble ladies, as to the falhion of their clothes, imitate that of the French ; but the air of moft of them is what would not be call'd genteel in another place; nor is it to be wonder'd at; confidering how little they converfe, or come into public company. The citizens or tradefmen's wives, at or near home, go bare-headed : when they go abroad, they have a plain black fcarf about their (boul- ders, which comes over their head too, ferving at once for a fcarf and a veil. None of the inferior orders are to drefs in the fafliion of the noble ladies, how well foever they may be able to afford it. Only the Jewifli women of fortune are, for a va- luable confideration, allow'd that drefs, with a further privilege of wearing jewels alfo. The courtezans do frequently drefs, as ifthey had the fame liberty ; but it is at their peril: tho'ifthey are at any time accufed of having broke the laws of the Pomp, the acculation going firft thro' the hands of inferior officers, they generally get off by making a prefent to thofe officers; or getting fome nobleman to fpeak to them to fliiflc the matter ; ■otherwife the puniffiment isfevere. The Venetians, for the dignity of their government, would reprefent their Doge as a' King, but for the freedom of it, as a King without power; and fo indeed he is; for he can't do fo much of himfelf as an Englifh juftice of peace : all there is the adl of the council : and even by the word Principe the whole arirtocracyisunderftood. He has not the liberty of themeaneft fubjeft, for he is not to ftir out of Venice without leave. He is therefore faid to be Rex in purpura. Senator in curia, in itrbe Captivus, "A King in his robe, a Senator in the affembly, a Pri- ** foner in the city." He is liable any night to be furpriz'd in his own chamber; for the inquifitors of ftate have keys to all his apartments, and may enter them at pleafure : may rifle his ca- binets, and tumble over kis papers, and he the while lie trem- bling in his bed, and not dare to afk who's there, or what they are doing. The revenues of the Doge's office rarely anfwer the expen- ses of it. From whence it fometimes happens, that the ancient families, who want not the honour, and with whom perhaps the expence may not fo well agree, are in no wife fond of itj 5 but, VENICE. ^ but, if eledled, they mufl. not refufe it. It is fald that this was the cafe of Cornaro, who was Doge while we were there; fmce dead : and that when his lady heard that he was elefted Doge, file fell into tears, and faid fomewhat to this purpofe to her lord ; " We have hardly enough to live up to our quality as it is, and they have made you Doge to ruin us quite." The inquifitors of flate, lately mentlon'd, are three of the Council of Ten, that formidable Decemvirate, the terror of all the nobles as well as the Doge himfelf. Their proceed- ings are fecret and acftive, their judgments rigorous, their fen- tence irreverfihle, and the execution of it fpeedy ; fo that at the very name of the council of Ten all Venice trembles, from the lowcfl: to the highefl. If the guilt of the party be clear to them, they don't ftand much upon forms of trial : fo that a criminal is often tried and condemn'd, without hearing a word of the procefs himfelf, or the event of it, till he is call'd to execution. And the rather, if he be a perfon of confiderable alliance, whofe public trial might be apt to make the more noifej in fuch cafe, he is perhaps ftrangled in the camerotta [dungeon], or convey 'd thence in the dead of night to the canal Orphano, and there drown'd. The manner of which, I have been told, is thus : he is tied down to a plank, which has a. weight aflix'd, fufficient to fink it, and fo laid acrois two Gon- dola's ; the gondola's then feparate, and down he goes. This canal Orphano is the decpeft part of all the Lagune, and has its name from the many orphans it has made. This fecret way of preceding is exadtly according to the rule given them by the famous Fra Paolo the Servite* ; which is, in the firft place, not * In a littie to condemn a nobleman, however criminal, if it can be avoid- ''""'^ 9^^ ^''' ed ; at leall:, not to have him come publickly under the hands propofe" to of the executioner, that the order may not fuffer in the efteem '''.« republick and veneration of the fubjefts — Ma, o lafciarli fornire la fome^rules of vita in car cere; o qiiando Jia pur ncceffario, farlo con ?//7^ OTOr/^ government, les.reta." But, rather to let him either end his davs in prifon, or ^^hercby they where neceiTiiy requires it, to dilpatch him by a fecret death." theirdoir.i- Tiic bare imprifonment has fometimes its deiired effedl, by "'°" P"^''P^" foon putting an end to the life of the unhappy prifoner in thofe unwholefome dungeons under ground : if that fail, or that they are in greater hafte than to wait the ilTue of it, the other method ^6 V E N I C £. method is taken with that fecrecy, that the criminal is per* haps become a prey to fifhes, feme months before his friends know any thing of the matter. Their friend Fra Paolo (a rare friar ! ) puts them into another way, which they may poffibly fometimes malie ufe of; that is, rather than make a pnblick bufuiefs on't, — fare che il veleno uji I'qfficio del jnaiiigoldo, ■perche il friitto e lo Jiejfo, e I'odio e mitiore. " Let poifon " do the ofhce of the executioner; for the efFedt is the fame, " and the odium is lefs." • -' The fecrecy of their councils they have been long famous for, even in the numerous alTembly of the Great Council. For that in tiieir debates long ago, upon the condemnation of Car- mignola, among a number of three hundred judges, the matter was kept private for eight months fucceffively ; and at the de- jjra Paolo. poliHg the Doge Fofcari, fuch fecrecy was us'd, that his own brother knew not of it. Their way of ballotting (which I was admitted to fee) in the Great Council, has been defcrib'd by fo many, that I forbear ■faying anything of it. Though it be a rule given them by their oracle Fra Paolo to difcourage thofe of their fubjedls who apply themfelves to the fervice of other princes, (forafmuch as they eftcem fuch to de- ferve little of their own ;) yet they don't wifli thofe of other natioPiS to obferve that rule towards them; but choofe to get foreigners into their fervice, to fight their battles for them. Nor are they apt to be over grateful to thofe that ferve them, by wha-t I could umierftand, few have dealt fo well with them, as General Schulenberg (who has been mention'd before :) and perhaps it would be dangerous for one of their own body to de- ferve fo well of them as he has done: for 'tis as fatal to deferve too well of them as to deferve ill. And we faw a noble- man of their own, who loft a hand in their fervice, con- cerning whom it was debated in council, whether he fliould be brought home in chains, or be made Procurator of S. Mark. The latter, as it prov'd, was the refolution. The Athenian Oftracifm is their favourite expedient ; and 'tis pretty well to come off with an honourable baniftiment, when a man is become too popular. Death has fometimes been iheir portion for it. And in this they agree with the policy of their VENICE. 97 their old friends, old foes, the Turks, as given us by Sir Pau ilycaut ; for that when a man is become too popular among them, or that his wealth or natural abilities render him formi- dable, all fair treatment is counterfeited, till the executioner gets the bow-ftring about his neck. Jull like the birds in Plu- tarch, who beat the cuckow, for fear that in time he (hould become a hawk. They arc very ([n<3: in difcouraging meetings or cabals of any fort J in fogiuch that, .io the. piiivlifkcofeF-h nurt;:^^ ^ jjyrj-^j a , rc no feats, nor dare the mailers of them keep any ; that company may not with eafc to themlelves ftaylong together in fuch oc- cafional places of meeting ; nor is any body allowed to difcourfc at all upon the affairs of the government, not even in praifc of the adminiftration, any more than againfl it. Neither arc the noblemen themfclvcs indulg'd in fuch difcourfe any more than others : for even they are not to talk over the affairs of Hate out of the proper place, tho' thenifelves are adors in them. The caution, \'. hich I have occafionally hinted before, that they vife againd being feen with a foreign minifter, carried fome of them fo far, that they forfook a frefco * fliop they us'd to fre- •where they quent, becaufe the Refident of. our nation was fometimes anJ/oX^r'*' there; and the poor man was forc'd to defire he would not come cooling li- thither, elfe he Hiould difoblige and lofe his noble cullomers. ^"°"- One of the nobility, an acquaintance of my lord Parker's, behav'd himfelf very handfomely upon the account of a foreign minifter's coming to his houfe. This nobleman is a man of letters, and has a good library, with fome antique Greek in- fcriptions, and other curiofities : being told that a curious gen- tleman, a ftranger in Venice, defir'd a fight of his library, he confented, as not fufpedting any thing irregular; when to his furprize, upon his coming, he found he was a foreign minifter. Tho' flruck at firil, he iccollctfled himfelf; entertaiu'd thegen- tleman with all humanity ; and as foon as he was gone, went ftrait himfelf to the inquifitors of ftate, and acquainted them with the matter, and the circumllance;; of it ; and fo avoided jhe ill confequcnces, which otherwife might have attended it. , jThe terms of diftindion of the feveral orders in Venice are, f^^c TiohiJi or gefitilhuomini (which with them are terms con- vertible) 1. e. the nobility or gentlemen; cittadiui, the citizens; O and ^8 VENICE. and mercanti, the merchants and trndefmen. And as the knowledge of Ibme of the Venetians extends no further than their own Lagune, I have been aflc'd, whether we had any gen- tlemen in England : for they have no other notion of a gentle- man, than as he has a (hare in the fovereignty. The order o{ cittadini comts the neareft to that of our gentlemen, as living upon their income without trades. They are the next in rank to the nobles, and wear (as I obferv'd before) an habit little different from theirs : and no nobleman thinks it below him to keep company with a cittadino. Out of thefe are cho- fen fomc officers of trufl: under the government : and par- ticularly the chancellor is always taken from amongfl: them : and yet his pofl is fo confiderable, that, if I am not much miftaken, he has a feat in the Great Council. And here I mud take notice of a notion common among the Italians, who think that none can be a gentleman, but as belonging to, and having his principal refidence in fuch or fuch a city ; and the greater the city, the better the gentleman. They have no notion of a gentleman being ffyled as of fuch a feat in the country. I was once afk'd, whether fuch a young nobleman were of Lon- don ? When I anfwer'd, he was ; that queftion was feconded by another, Ma, di Londra propria ? " But is he of the verv city " of London ?" for if he had not been of London-city itfelf, all clfe I could have faid would have pafs'd for nothing. By mer- canti are underftood traders of all forts, whether in wholefale or retail, as the mercharids in France : and the term being {o generally applied to the meanell: retailers, they have no notion, (except in the great trading cities) what a merchant of London is : one of whom would buy a fcore of their marqueffes. The living in Venice is like being on board a vail fliip; out of which you go now and then for airing in the long-boat. All their diverfions of taking the air are upon the water (where elfe indeed muft they have them ?) Tliere they take the Frefco, as they call it, (for 'tis m the cool of the evening,) where the gon- dolas wheel about, pafs andre-pafs on the great canal, juit as the coaches do in Hyde-park. This they do every holiday evening, of which they have good {lore. There the Donne Sponfate take the opportunity of fliewing themfelves. Thefe are young ladie?, who after their efpoufals, which is perhaps a year VENICE. ' 99 year before the folemnization of marriage, goabroad in maflvS ; th«ir lovers [or fpoules] with them. They are drefl: in ftrait- bodied gowns, with flioit fleeves, as the maids of honour in ths courts of thofc countries are. 7 hofc that are to be nuns fponfi diChriJfo [fpoufes of Chrift,] the year preceding their en- trance into the convent, go abroad in the lame drels, to take leave of the world. We were at a divcrfion of this fort one day upon the Lagune, near the church of La Gratia, occafion'd by a benedidion that was there of a fliip-load of pilgrims, who were fetting out upon their holy voyage. They have fome- times ferenades upon the water, of inftrumental and vocal mu- fick, fong and recitativo, after the manner of the operas. The nuns of S. Lorenzo, and thofe of S. Maria Celeftia, have on their feaft-days, one the loth, the otlier the 15th of Auguil:, a great concert of mufick in their fcveral churches. The nuns of both thefe convents are noble ladies ; and they vie for fuperiority with eacii other, which fhall have the beft mu- fick : and therefore each obliges the chief of their muficians when they engage them to be at their feafl:, not to be employed at the other. So that which ever of the two gets the beflofthe home-muficians firll for their feafi, puts the other under a ne- cefllty offending to Bologna, or fome fuch dillant place, for others. At the Celeftia there was an occafional portico, and a colonade on the bridge that leads to the church, with ex- tempore-ftatues, made up of pafl:eboard and fliffen'd linen cloth, both without the church and within. The churches on thefe occalions are adorned with the richeft hangings they can get. Without doors thefe viragoes have guns firing, with trumpets and hautboys founding, to make all the noife they can. Their guns are a little fort of mortars -f- ftuck in the ground, which f Much the, are fo hard ram'd, that they make a report like a cannon. On ^anie as what their feaft-d ays the door of their convent is flung open, '"ind ^^^'^j.^'^i,'^!^^ ^'"" they ftand in crouds atthe entrance, wherel obferv'd them talk- ing to their acquaintance with great freedom. Nor do thefe no- ble veftals at any time confine themfelves to fuch clofe rellric- tions as others of their order are oblig'd to do. Thole I faw at the Celeftia were drefs'd in white ; no veil over their faces ; j Here called a fmall tranfparent black covering ;}: goes round their Hioiild- " *^'''ft. or ersi their heads were very prettily drefs'd ; a fort of fmall thin ip'Jp^ecc'un- O 2 coif ties. loo M A L A M O C O. coif went round the crown, and came under the chin : their hair was feen at the forehead, and nape of the neck : the co- vering on their neck and breaft was fo thin, that 'twas next to nothing at all. The Italian women in general, and the Venetians in par- ticular, fet their hair with a very agreeable, and well-fancied variety; which they feem the more induc'd to, by reafon of their going fo much bare-headed, and fo having greater op- portunity of difplaying their {kill in that particular. The men when they are in mourning, do it pretty thoroughly ; they wear black fhirts ; with neck-cloths and ruffles of black filk. Befides the known fanduaries of the churches and convents, they have in Venice other privileg'd places in the open parts of the city; which are mark'd out, by the vford Santo being cut on the pavement ; and if a perfon flaying for his friend, or fo, fhould happen to loiter about a little in one of thefe places, he is prefently concluded by thofe that fee him, to have dons fomewhat whereby he is liable to an arreft. In cafe of arrefts here, [as in other cities of Italy] there is a band of men, the Sbirri, arm'd with long guns, commanded by a Barigello or captain, who makes detachments of them upon occafion. Theperfons of thefe are fo odious to the people, not only the private men, but their captain too, that notvvith- ftanding his pompous appearance, with a gold chain which he wears, 'tis fcandalous to be feen fpeaking to him. Tho' the exceflive caution and jealoufy of the governours here be fuch, that people are fometimes taken up upon flight information, and fometimes perhaps when they know not wherein they have offended, yet thefe cafes do not often hap- pen; and generally fpeaking, let their Politicks and Amours alone, and a man may live at Venice quiet and fecure enough. t Malamoco From Venice we went in a Peota of Malamoco y, a boat is about four vvith fix oars, along the gulph to Ravenna. from've^nice. ^"^ mafler Joachim, who was jy years old, had been em- ploy 'd by the Englifli 50 years ; and by converfing with our failors at Malamoco had learn'd to fpeak pretty good Englifh ; and yet told us, he had not learned to drink either brandy or punch. The C H I O G G I A, ice. The firft night we came to Chloggia : It is a bifhoprick, and has a Podefta, or governor, who is deputed by the republick, and is always a noble Venetian. The name of the then Podefta was Manini. It is an expenfive office ; the place lying at a con- venient diftance for vifits from Venice in the fummer-timc.j about five and twenty miles. The city is faid to contain about forty thoufand fouls. It is built in an ifland, or rather feveral iflands ; with canals and bridges j in that refpedt fomcwhat like Venice : we came to it and left it in the dark, fo could fee but little of it. The next night we lay at Volana, a fmall by- place on the fliore. The night following, we might have come in very good time to Ravenna, but were ftopp'd at Candim, fix miles Ihort of the city, by the officers of health, wlio had receiv'd new flri(5l orders from the cardinal [ Bentivoglio ] not to let any pafs whofe Fcdcs, i. e. bills of health, did not Jpecify the particulars of their baggage, as well as perfons. Be- fore the return of the mefTenger, whom we difpatch'd to the cardinal, 'twas too late to enter the city, the gates being (hut; fo we were forc'd to perform quarantain in the boat all night. In the evening, while we were waiting the return of the mel- fenger, one of the Candianefe, a number of whom were loiter- ing on the fliore to ftare at us, happen'd to join himfelf to one of our boatmen, who was ftcpt out upon land ; which his fel- lows feeing, one of them came and pluck'd him away for fear of his being infeded. Our mafter wanted feme fi(h for his men, and call'd to a filherman he faw to bring fome : the fi'flicrman agreed to leave fome in fuch a place, from whence the men might fetch them; but would not be prevail'd on to come near us. From Candian we came up a canal of fix miles length to Ravenna, where we arriv'd before the gates were open in the morning. Before I fpeak of this place, I will mention fomc- thing ot what I obferv'd before, in the land-way from Padua, which leads towards it. The firft flop we made, was at a palace about feven miles from Padua, Palazzo Obizzi near Battaglia; a fine fituation, and finely adorn'd with paintings ; it has fome on the outfide, but they are fomewhatdecay'd; thofc that are within, are verv well :xx(L PALAZZO O B I Z Z I, 6cc. well preferv'd : the hall ina lix o.her rooms are painted in frefco by Paolo Veronefe j they were done in the beginning of his time, andconduc'd to the railing of his reputation. The colouring is not fo mellow as what we fee in his later works; but the defign is fpiriiful, and the execution free and well. In one is reprefented a war between Edward III. of England, and David king of Scots, wherein Obizzi ferv d : and in an- other compartiment King Edward acknowledges the taking * of David to be owing to Obizzi, and in another makes him knight of the Garter, as fays that hiftory, h.nvever it may fquare with ours. In another is painted ?,n expedition for the holy war ; wherein is a (hip of Richard king of England, in which Obizzi attended that king. Over a door that leads to this apartment, there is a noble figure, 'tis of Fortune (as I remember,) finely defign'd, and as finely colour'd. In another apartment, we faw a pidlure (by another hand) of one of the Great Dukes of Tufcany, when a boy, on a great horfe; whofe mane was fo long, that the end of it was tnck'd to a buckle on his buttock: we faw the mane itfelf, after- wards, at Florence. Behind the palace we pafs'd thro a long narrow gallery to a pretty armoury; oppofite to which was a theatre for performing of operas. The palace ftands upon a fine eminence; and from hence we had a pleafant view of Palazzo Delfino, which we had pafs'd by a little before : this palace was newly built, the out-buildings not then finidi'd : on the top of it were many modern flatues; a good num- ber of the like had been plac'd in the garden, but were over- turn'd, and the garden fpoil'd, by the overflowing of water. We din'd at Montefelice, a little town, about ten miles from Padua ; and from the room we fat in, had a pleafant view of an old caftle upon an eminence above us. We pafs'd the Adige at Boara, three miles fliort of Rovigo, which is 25 from Padua. t If this account be true, our chronicle-writers fail of doing Obizzi juftice; they not fo much as at all mentioning any fiich perfon ; the' feveral others who were in the action wherein David was overthrown, and taken, are particularly named. RO- R O V I G O. 103 Rov I GO has nothing very remarkable ui it. There is a dome well enough wortii Teeing ; 'tis of an octangular figure;, and put me fomewhat in mind of the Pantheon at Rome; it has a colonade round it on the oiitfide, as the temple of the Sibyl at Tivoli. Th^re is one gentleman * who is .Count faid to have a good colledlion of antique bufts, and infcrip- S>lvellre. tions; but he being from home, and our ftay at Rov i go be- ing too fliort to admit my going thither again, I cou'd only fee a few of the lefs confiderable ones in the portico at the entrance. At the ^ve Maria, which is at 24 hours, we i'dw them lighting up their wax-tapers before the images of the Ma- donna in the piazza; and, like good hufbands, as foon as that was over, which was in a minute or two, they immediately put them out again. In fome places they have evening li- tanies, which they fing at the altars, under a pidlure or image of the Madonna in the ftreets; and 'tis pleafant enough to fee a parcel of children only, got together Ibmetimes, before one of thofe altars, (girls very often) one of them, the pro- locutor, calling over the names of the faints, and the reft joining in a chorus oi era pro nobis to each. They had at Venice fplcndid evening litanies at an altar under the Prccuraties, which was brightly illuminated. The litanifts waited the motion of a mountebank who pradtis'd. jufl; by J and as foon as his affair was over, the bell rung for the congregation to adjourn from the piazza to the portico 5, 'twas in vain to offer at it before. At Canara, fix miles fhort of Ferrara, we left the Vene- tian dominions, and entcr'd the Pope's. -In this road we obferv'd abundance cf dwarf-elder, and hops, there a ufelefs plant, running along the hedges; and a good many medlars as we went along the canal Biancho, which we pals'd eight miles from Rovigo. The pleaiure of the road, along the banks pf this canal, invited us to walk a little, and we ob- ferv'd fome plants not frequent with us; as the Cucumer Afi- ninus, Calamintha, Melifl'a, and theRicinus Americanus, a fine plant, with a large leaf, not much unlike that of the fig, but 5 larger. I04 F E R R A R A. larger. On the poplars, that grew along thefe banks, we oblerv'd fome fhoots of one year, that feem'd full three yards in length. In the fields we faw a good deal of what we call here Virginia-wheat, or fomewhat very like it ; and another grain, they call Surgo, growing on a fort of reed, and which they mix with wheat, for bread. On the rivers in thefe parts, we faw a good many floating mills. We pafs'd the Po at a place call'd Ponte di Lago Of- curo, three miles fhort of Ferrara, to which a canal leads from the Po, FERRARA. THE flreets of Ferrara are the faireft and widefl: of any we faw in Italy: there is no danger indeed of joftling upon any account, for 'tis very thinly peopled, A little tower, where they keep guard, fronts the end of the great ftreet; which has a very good efFedt : acrofs that goes ano- ther, ftrait and fair; fo that every way you have a fine view, and nobody to interrupt it. In the churches here we faw a great many fine paintings, of mafters who are fcarce known in England, exxept perhaps by a few drawings; as Benve- nuto da Garofalo, Scarfelino, Monio, Panetus, Bonon, Car- pacio, Francia, Dorfo, with feveral others. One there is, in the church of S. Maria in Vado, painted by Carpacio, in the year 1508. A chapel in the church of S. Francefco, painted in frefco, by Benvenuto da Garofalo in 1524, in a tafte little inferior to Raphael himfelf. In the fame church there is a miracle of S. Anthony painted by Bonon: a rich mifer dying, his heart was found among his money; the faint reftores the heart to its right place, and the man to life. Some fore- Ihorten'd figures of Bonon, on the cieling of S. Maria in Vado, raife themfelves the moft eredt of any I ever faw painted on a cieling. The * Scuola della Madonna deUa Circoncifione, [The fchool of our Lady of the Circumcifion] has fome excellent pieces j efpecially a Circumcifion, by Ludovico Caracci, * Call'd fometimes La Scala, becaufe you go up ftairs to it. 'Tis juft by the church of S. Francefco. The firft mention'd name of this fchool may perhaps be taken from that famous piece of the circumcifion, which fo eminently adorns it. 'Tis F E R R A R A. 'Tis pity the beauties oflb fine a place as Ferrara fliou'd be enjoy 'd by l"o few ; bat the rigour and extortion of the Pnpal government is aflign'd as a reafon for it. There are fonie good bulls of philofophers, ^c. on the outfide of the Palazzo Bevelacqua. There is another palace, call'd the Diamond- Palace, 1 1 think it belongs to the fame family] fo call'd from a fort of ruftic on the outfide j the feveral llones projedling after the manner of diamonds. We were not within it, be- ing told there was little to be feen. Our names were here (as in other places) fcnt, upon our arrival, to the governor, a vice-legate of the Pope. We had trom him a permifTion to ftay three days in Ferrara; and if we wou'd then ftay longer, might have our time enlarg'd by him. It was fpecify'd in the permiflion, that if any one gave a falfe name, in cafe he were noble, he fliou'd pay a hundred crowns, and be immediately banifli'd ; ifotherwife, he fliou'd pay fifty crowns, and have Tre tratte di Chorda, " Three plucks of the cord." The manner of it is thus : the arms of the offender are brought behind him, a cord is tied to his wrilts, he is fo drawn up by a pully, to the height of an ordinary houfe, thrice, and let down again. Some have their flioulders put out, or are otherwife maim'd in the exe- cution of this fcntence. Over-againll the Dome, which is a fair and large church, but net fo much adorn'd as ufual in that country, are two e^ueflral copper flatues ; one is of Nicolas, marquis of Efte, Tef Facts Auclor, as he is called in the infcription ; the other is of duke Durfo, who was (I think) of the fame family, and whofe memory is held precious among the Ferrarefe. From Ferrara to Cento we went almofl all the way along the banks of the Renno [or little Rhine ;] fometimes over a ridge of a high-rais'd way : 'tis fometimes but bad tra- velling this road, either above or below 3 for 'tis a rich foil, and verifies our Englifli proverb, " Bad for the rider, •' Good for th' abider." P CENTO. J 05 ,o6 CENTO. CENTO. T hunch b:ick'd, H E town of Cento is famous for little elle than the _ multitude of paintings done by Franccfco Barbieri, call'd Guercin del Cento from his fquinting : and with thefe, tho' poor enough in other refpei5ls, 'tis perfedly enrich'd. As the ancient Romans gave furnames from fomething par- ticular in the perfon of the man, as Cicero, Nafo, Labio, ^c. fo the modern Italians obferve the fame cuflom ; and people are often more generally known by fome fuch nick- name, as ,nX"'"' this of* Guercino, thofe of Gobboy Sto)-to, &c. than they are ick'd, by the name of their family ; which indeed is in a manner barvlylegg • ^ggj^^gj \^ perfonal addreffes, and the Chriftian name 'only made ufe of i [as fignior Francefco, Giovanni, Thomafo, Sec.] in cafe they call 'em by either of their real names j as for our Guercino, he has lofl: both. Among the accounts we have of the pidlures in Italy, I have not feen any that takes notice of thofe in Cento ; where there are great numbers, very well worth notice, of Guercino and his nephew Gennaro ; with fome few of other celebrated mafters ; but thofe of the uncle and nephew are much the mod numerous. I made a lift of the chief of them ; but'tvvou'd be tedious to the reader to be troubled with it here. Had Guercin in his life-time been paid for fuch of his pidlures only as he has left in Cento, but the tenth part of the money that they wou'd now yield, were they to be fold, he might have rais'd a great eftate. We faw about twelve churches, and four or five gentlemen's houfes, enrich'd by his works. In the church del Spirito Santo, we faw a large piece with a mul- titude of figures, 'tis the ^ladro de' Tutti Santi, " the picture •' of All Saints," which he had but 20 crowns for painting j and I doubt not but in Italy itfelf 'twou'd now take 200 pif- toles J worfe piftures I'm fure have yielded fo much or more. In one of the gentlemen's houfes [that of cavalier Chiarelli, a very obliging perfon,] befides the cieling of the ftair-cafe, we faw feven or eight rooms, in fome of which the whole walls, in others the friezes above the hangings, were 4 painted. P I E V E. IC7 painted by him ; foine hirtorical fubjeds; as the ftories of UlyiTcs ; of j^neas and Anchifes ; fome out of Taflb; in others, horfes, huntings of wild hearts, landfcapes, and other fancies. Over one of the chimneys was a Venus and Cupid, with Mars in the air, an admirable figure : thcfc are moft of them, if not all, in Frefco. He work'd by the day j and, as the cavalier told us, had but a Paul per day, [about 6d. Englifli.] Money fure was then worth more, or painting lefs, than it is now a-days. In S. Peter's church, we favv a pidture of S. Fran- cis and S. Bernard in an ecftafy ; an angel in the clouds is play- ing on the violin ; and the harmony overpowers the fiiints. This fubjedt is pretty frequent in Italy. In the church of the Capucins out of town, to which we went along a pleafant walk from the town-gate, is a celebrated piece ofLudovico Caracci, which they call Guercino's ftudy. There is in it a gentleman and his wife, donors of the pitfture, recommended by a Capucin to the Blelfed Virgin : and under it is written, 'Exaiidi preces fuppHcantium te, Virgo Maria'^. A canal goes from this gate of Cento, to Ferrara ; which is eighteen miles. About a mile from Cento, we came to a little wali'd place, call'd Pieve. As I remember they told us, that was a city, which Cento is not; but that they went from thence to Cento to market. They were very fcrupulous here about our entrance into their famous city : the general road leads along the outfideof it ; and though we (hew'd our fede%, they wou'd not let us come in at their gate, till they had fent to confult the governor : we faw fome very good paintings in three or four of the churches. The avenues of this little city were pleafantly adorn'd with fine rows of poplars ; and the diflant "rounds fet with vines, and mulberry-trees for the filk-worms, with great quantities of hemp, which they deal much in here- abouts ; as they do likewife in Bologna. In this road we met fometimes with a tall tree they call Sorbolo, the leaf fomewhat like that of an a(h ; the fruit is a little like apples, which they keep to grow mellow in liay or ftraw ; and (as a medlar) is not fit to eat till almoll rotten. * n ar ihou iLe petitions of us, that fiipplicate the.-, O Virg'n M.i.y. p 2 R A- I RAVENNA. RAVENNA. Now return to Ravenna, whole antiquity is taken notice _ of by the ancient writers, and no wonder it ihou'd now be diftinguifli'd, as it is, by the epithet ^«//V^;. There was an- •t Page 101. ciently no occafion for fuch a canal as we came by -f-, to bring •'Twasfoinj^ up hither, for the fea walhed the very walls *. The 'he time or r , ,. ^ i i i Honorias. town itlelf makes no extraoramary figure, though the country Vid. Claa- i^ fertile about it. "'^"' In the Dome is a chapel painted by Guido, the altar-piece and cieling ; the former is Mofes, and the gathering the man- na ; the other is our Saviour in the clouds, with the crofs in his hand, and feveral angels about him ; among which S. Michael is particularly efteem'd. In the former piece is a head, not much unlike the famous Turbantina, of the fame author, in the fine cloyfter of S. Michael in Bofco at Bologna. Near that figure is a woman with a veflel of manna ; very genteel attitude, and fine air of the head. The church is old Gothic archi- tedlure ; much Mofaick, but none, that I faw, fine ; I mean as to the defign, for 'tis rich enough : the floor is Mofaick, like- wife; it has fuffer'd much by the fall of the old roof, a good while ago. The great door of this church is made of large planks of vine : fome writers fay there was a pair of ftairs in the temple of Diana at Ephefus of the fame fort of wood ; but I don't remember that they mention the length of them ; feveral of thefe planks feem'd to be lo or 12 feet long, at leafl a foot broad, and above two inches thick. In the church of S. Vitalis is a pidliure of Federico Baroccio, 1583, repre- fcnting the death of that faint. He was drown'd in a well ; and they fhew the place in the church behind one of the al- tars ; the water of that well cures all diftempers, as they tell us. The body of the church is a fort of Rotonda ; here is a great deal of old marble and Moiaick, but the Mofaick is not good. There is in the fame church a baflb-relievo of white marble, reprefenting an antient facrifice. In the church of S. Nazarus and S. Celfus, built by Galla Placidia, we faw her tomb, between thofe of Valentinian and Honorius, as they told us ; I fuppofe from fome traditional accountj^ RAVENNA. account, for we faw no infcription to aiithorile it. Thefe tombs are great cumberfome cherts of marble, without orna- ment : the church itfelf is a little dark place; there are fome old Mofaic figures of the apollles, which are bad enough. The mod extraordinary thing we faw in Ravenna was the covering of a lide church, which they call the Rotonda, all of one vafl fl:one ; they told us 'twas anciently the maufoleum or monument of Theodorick. This building confiils of aground floor, and a ftory above it : the former was heretofore a church or chapel, but long fince incapable of being us'd as fuch, by the acceffion of earth, which has been wafli'd, or fome how brought thither; fo that the ground is now rais'd fo much, that you can't enter the door (which, according to the breadth, muft have been once of a conllderable height) without loop- ing very low; almoft indeed creeping on all four. Water lay within it when we faw it. The llory above, which is imme- diately cover'd by this extraordinary roof, is now us'd as a chapel. I meafur'd the diameter of the floor, (wliich was 107 it lay, as they told us, four feet more each way on the wall which brings it to about 38 feet diameter. As to the thicknefs of it, Mr. Addifon's and Millon's account may both be true, though one fays 'tis 15 feet thick, and the other only 4 : for the original thicknefs of this vail ftone, taken from the top to the level of the bafis at the edges, may be 1 5 feet ; but it is now hollowed within, and cut to a fuitable convexity with- out ; fo as to be reduced to a (hell of four feet thick. It appears of a furprifing bulk ; efpecially as you fland on Th the top of it, on the outfide. the bottom gives fome Together RAVENNA. Together with its hiftory, and the account of its dimenfion?;, they fliew thefe h"nes : S' ella e una pietra fola Dhmni tu con qtial arte o ordegno JlranOy j^/a fu I' ha collocata ingegno humano : O, fefono piu pietre unite injieme, Mojl-ra duna di lor le parte ejireme. " If what thou feefl; be but one fingle flone, " Tell me by what device, what ftretch of art, " By what machine, at fuch a height 'twas plac'd ; " Jf more than one, fay where their edges meet." I remember a Latin diftich, (I think 'tis infcrib'd under one of the obehfks in Rome) of which the lines above feem to be a tranflaticn. Si lapis ejl unus, die qudfiiit arte levatus ; Velyfifuntphires, die ubi contigui. " If it's one ftone what engine cou'd they find " To raife it up ? if more, fliew where they're join'd." On the top of the convex outfide flood the porphyry-tomb of Theodoricj but it was beaten down, as fome write, by a cannon-ball of Lewis XII. but as people of the place fay, by a thunderbolt ; which likewife made a great crack we faw in the ftone which makes the roof. The tomb was afterwards brought from thence, and fix'd in the convent-wall of the Soccolanti ; where was once the magnificent palace of that king; and 'twas therefore they chofe that fituation for it, after it had been lb hurl'd from the palace where it firfi; ftood. The people of Ravenna bewail the lofs of an equeftral fla- tue of copper, taken from them by the Pavians : but they boaft of having had their revenge ; and now fhew feveral pieces of fome brazen gates of pierc'd work, hanging under the arches of a portico, in the great piazza, pretended to be part of the fpoils taken by them from the Pavians ; the reft beins R A V E N N A. being melted down to make a bell for one of the churches, as they told us : perhaps to give us fomc greater idea of their booty than what appear'd to us ; for it fl)ould feem natural for 'em, if fuch was the cafe, to have kept in full view, what repril'ali they had made upon their enemy. In the fame piazza we faw a fine copper flatue of pope Alexander the Vllth, and two other lUtues. We left Ravenna, furnifh'd with a doubleyi'd'^ [or teftimo- nial] one to certify that we were well, the other that we were fick ; the former, on account of their fear of the plague*, to get us entrance into their cities j and the other (it being Lent) to get us fome grajfo [flefli-meat] in the inns. 'Twas neceflary in our cafe to Ihuffle our cards right. A merry fort of formality attends the obtaining the later fede in fome places. Firfl of all, a phyfician afiirms upon his confcience that A. B, is fo indifpos'd that he cannot, with- out great danger of his corporal health, keep Lent. Then the curate of the pari/li declares, that the party, with ^^'hom he has difcours'd in perfon (tho' he has never feen him) affirms the fame upon his own confcience; and that he has had the judg- ment of the phyfician for it. Then one of the Signior Depu- tatiy upon the certificate of the two doctors, grants the licence for eating flefli-meat, excepting Friday and Saturday, unlefs the party be forc'd to it by infirmity ; and this he is to do apart from others ; is to ufe this liberty with moderation ; and with forrow that he can't, through his infirmity, keep the holy-fall of Lent. It was not till we came to Bologna that we had this matter in its full forin ; and there we met with a good natur'd doftor, who, I believe, would have given my lord a carte blanche to have inferted a troop of horfe if he had pleas'd ; and he would have affur'd that they were all fick enough. For he was fo obliging as to fend us zfede or tefiimonial in form, — that Milord Parker & tutta fua famiglia [my lord Parker and his whole family] were indifpos'd, £cc. without fpecifying either the names or the number j and thought his lordfiiip very fcru- pulous for propofing the fetting down all their names. The curate and the other ofiicer fign'd their parts likewife, without * The plague raging at that time in Fr-ince, the I:aliar.s were very cautious how lliey admitted ftrangers into their ciiies. feeing i,,2 CERVIA. CESENATE. feeing any of us ; for our landlord fent or carried it to them fo he fign'd. At Ravenna we had only the fe^e of the •phyfician ; not any of the curate, &c. A canon of the church, who recommended the phyfician to us, told us he was a very famous one, and well known thro' all the ecclefiaftical ftate. Coming from Ravenna, we pafs'd through part of a great wood of pines, the whole of which, we were told, is thirty miles long. Our way continued not above four miles in it. We eat lume of the kernels of thefe pine-apples at Ravenna, which were very good ; in tafte net much unlike almonds. This wood, all of it, belongs to fome convents ; Benedidines and otheis. The next city we came to was Cervia; which I believe would all ftand within Lincoln's-Inn- fields. It is a new city, and not quite finifh'd within ; the out-wall is: this wall is built quite round with houfcs upon it, as far as I could perceive in paffing through. By an infcription over the gate, I found 'twas re- mov'd thither in the time of Clement XI. and his predecefTor Innocent XII. from another fituation, which was unwholefome. Here they make fait. We pafs'd thro' Cefenate, a fmall town [anciently Casfena] and a little after that we came to the famous river Rubicon, ac- cording to the modern geographers, called of the country peo- ple, Pifatello by fome ; by others, Rugone and Rigone ; and nearer the fea, Fiumecino. It was fo low, that we drove the « 'Twas the chaife* thro' it j and is inconfiderable enough in itfelf ; famous n'^s*^ whe'i!''°"'y ^^ being the ancient boundary between Italy and Gallia >vc pafs'd it. Cifalpina ; and was not to be pafs'd by any Roman in arms, un- der the penalty of being adjudg'd an enemy to the fenate and people of Rome. It is called only amnis in a decree of the fenate, which is faid to have been infcrib'd on a itone, plac'd near the fide of it, but now not appearing there. Blond (as cited by Cluverius) fpeaks thus of the river, and of the infcription. Sequitur RUBICON. H3 Sequkiir magn'i quondam Kominls Tor mis Rubicon ; Pifatel- hm nunc qidfub Flaminia * Vid^ Ruccnem, qui fupra adcoliint, vocant ; Juilq; olim fiante & integrd Rep. Romana Lege prohi- bitum, tie quifpiam Armatus ilium injujju Magijlratuum tranj- grcdcreter. Eaq; Lex loco mota, in quo ab initio Juit po/ita, Marmore Uteris elegant ijjimis ctiam nunc vijitur : quan Ubult lieic ponerc. yuffiim Mandatumve P. R. Conf. Imperator, Miles, Tyro, Commilito, quifquis es, Manipulariaeve Centurio, Turmaeve Legioniijriae -f, hie fijlito, Vexillum Jinito, nee citra /lunc am-'^^\^K^'^'^'* nem Rubiconem Signa, DuSlum, Commeatumve traducito. Si quis hujus jujjionis ergo adverfus praecepta ierit fice- ritve, adjudicatus efto hojiis P. R. ac Ji contra patriam arma tulerit, pcnatefq; e facris penetralibus ajportaverit. S. P. QJl. SANCf 10- PLEBISCITI . S • VE • C . There is In the long gallery of the Vatican at Rome, a copy of the infcription ; with the figure of the ftone, to the beft of my memory. It is in one of the geographical defcriptions (which are there painted on the wall) of the feveral flates and provinces of Italy. 1 tranfcrib'd it from thence, and it agrees in fubdance with this of Blond, but there are ibme variation?. Particularly, the two firft words are in the ablative, Jujfu Mandatuve. [Trib.] is between Imp. and Mi/es. [Armate] is after Commilito. [Arma deponito] follows Vexillum Jinito. [Eav/v/V //;;;] is between DuSlum and Commeatum. Inftead of P. R. it is S. P. ^ R. And at the end, VUra hos fines Arma proferre liceat Nemini. But for the reader's more diftinft view, I will here add at length the tranfcript I made from that in the Vatican. There is firft writ by way of title, S.P.^R. • i^^it non fotiui JEm'iliu? ^uciiitiM, '' jirm:i:o termlnari dUilur Flaminia.^' Jac, ^'iilanius : de quo infra, p. i:C, ^14 RUBICON. S. P. ^ R. SanBio ad Rubiconis Fontem. And tlien follows, 'Jujju MandaUive P. R. Cof. Imp. Trib. Milrs, Tyro, Commi- lito Artnate, qidfquis es, Maiiipiilcriceve Ce?iturio, Turmave Legionarice Hie fijiito, Vexillumfinito, Anna deponito, 72ec citra hunc Amnem Rubiconem Jigna, Du6lum, Rxercitu7n, Commca- tufnve traduciio. Siqicis hujiijce jiijionis ergo adverfus pr^vcepfa ierit feceritve, adjudicatiis ejlo hojiis S. P.^R. ac Ji contra patriam arma tiilerit, Penatefq; e facr. penetralib. ajportave- rk.S.P.^R. SanBio Pkbtfciti. S. Ve. C. Ultra hos fines arma proferre liceat Neminr, Leander, who gives this infcription, has thefc addition^!, which are not in Blond : two or three of his words ;ue oddly penii'd [Tirori. Commiltton. Arma], inftead of Tyro, Commilito, Armale. How his are to be conftrucd, 1 do not apprehend. Leander further adds, Blondus tabidam banc marmoream cum hifcriptione fe vidijfe ait, quod mihi fcepe bac eunti ac fediilo inquirenti baud licuit, quanqiiain fortaffe nunc alio tranflata, aut humo tedla ejje pojjh, quum fuo loco motam fe vidijj'e ille dicat. Blondus does not diredtly fay Vidi, but Vifitur. Tho' in- deed his defcribing the beauty of the charaders does not imply his having feen it. Cluverius again wonders how it Oiould efcape Leander, when it had been ft^.n by Blond but eighty years before; declaring that he himfelf had feen it in the pub- lic way two miles from Csefena, hard by the brook commonly Cdii'd Rugone; infcrib'd on a moft white marble, but in letters not very elegant. Whether that which Blond, and that which Cluverius faw, v/ere the fame, will admit of fome doubt : for, not to infill on the quite oppofite accounts given by them of the charac- ters, one fpeaking of them in the term of Uteris elegant ijjimis, the other. Uteris baud pulchris, (becaufe that may appear beautiful to one, which does not to another) ; there is yet a confiderable difference in the reading of each ; as will appear by the foUovv'ing one of Clwverius, compar'd with the above- JOiention'd of Blond, 5 IVSSV. RUBICON. ri5 IVSSV . iMANDATVVE . P. R. COS IMP. R/IILI.* TVRO . COMILITO * Both thefe MANIPVLARIEVE . CENT. TUR bctmiil^. M.^VE . LEGIONARIOE *. ARMAT QyiSQ\'IS . ES . HIC . SISTITO . VE XILLUM . SINITO . NEC . CITRA HVNC. AMNEM . RVBICONEM SIGNA , ARMA . DVCTVM . CO MEATViM . EXERCITVMVE . TR ADVCITO . Sr. QVIS . HVIVSCE IVSSIONIS . ERGO . ADVERSVS * - [Pr^cffta] lERIT . FECERITVE . ADIVDICAT tkbrVcM VS • ESTO. HOSTIS. P. C, f AC. SI. CO in thi's, and ' NTRA . PATRIAM . ARMA . TVLER "°\ C^/ ^"^ _ as in the IT . SACROS . Q.. PENATES . E . PEN others. ETRALIBVS . ASPORTAVERIT. SA NCTIO . PLEBISCITI . SENATUS VE . CONSVLTI . VLTRA . HOS . FI NES.ARMA . PROFERRE . LICEAT NEMINI ^ S.P.Q,R. Cluverius, tho' he took the pains to copy this infcription, does not look upon it to be genuine : he fpeaks of it in the terms of marmor adultermum, and Barbara atq; inepta ora- tio : and further adds, S>uod Ji heic pofita fuijfet lex, quum 'Jul. Ccefar amnem cum exercitu trajiceret, belliun Pompeio Mag7io moturus, certe earn refpexiffet : certe refpeSlam ei lec- tamq; retuli/fcnt aiiBores, Suetonius, Plutarchus, Appianus ; qui hunc ejus trajeSlum contra legem Senatus populiq; Romani adc urate narrarunt. And I further find, that not only Ciuverius, but others too, do condemn this infcription as fpuiious, and deny the Pifatello to be the Rubicon. It has, in fliort, been for many years paft the fubjcft of an eager paper-war between the people of CiEle- nate and Pvimini ; the former contending for the infcription and the Pifatello, the latter denying both ; and affirming the Q^ ancient i,^ R U B I C O N. ancient Rubicon to have been another river, which is a little further on, nearer to Rimini, now call'd Luia or Lufo. The fum of the whole controverfy may be feen in a book intitled, Arminenfn Rubicon, writ by jacobus Villanius of Rimini, in anfwer to Scipio Claramontius of Casfenate : each of thefe violently contending for the Rubicon, as the cities of Greece did for the birth of Homer; and each affirming that river or brook to have been the Rubicon which (of the two in difpute) runs neareft to their own town, the Pifatello to Csefe- nate, the Lufo to Rimini. So all a traveller has for it, is this ; between Csfenate and Rimini he palfes the Rubicon, but he mud not pretend to pronounce at which of the two currents it is that he pafTes it. Lucan describes the ufual condition of the Rubicon, and how it was when C^efar pafs'd it. Fonte cadit tnodlco, parvifq; impellitiir undis Funiceus Rubicon, qimm fervida candiiit cejias, Perq; itnas ferpit valleis, & Gallica ccrttis Limes ab Aufoniis dijlerminat arva colonis. Turn vires prcebebat hyems, fit que mixer at undas Tertia jam gravida pluvialis Cynthia cornu, Et madidis Euri refoliitce fiatibus Alpes. Primus in obliquum fonipes opponitur afnnem, Excepturus aquas ; inolU turn ccetera riimpit Turba vado facileis jam fraBi fJuminis imdas. Ccefar, ut adverfam Juperato gurgite ripam Attigit, Hefperia vetitis & cojijlitit arvis ; Heic ait, heic pacem, temerataq; jura relinquo, Te, Bortiina, fequor ; procul hinc jatn feedera Junto. While with hot flcies the fervent fummer glows. The Rubicon an humble river flows; Thro' lowly vales he cuts his winding way. And rolk his ruddy waters to the fea. flis bank on either fide a limit (lands, Between the Gallic and Aufonian lands. But ftronger now the wint'ry torrent grows, The wetting winds had thaw'd the Alpine fnows; And RUBICON. And Cynthia, riling with a blunted beam, In the third circle drove her wat'ry team j A flgnal fure to raife the fwelling ftream. For this ; to flem the rapid water's courfe, Firft plung'd amidft the flood the bolder horfe; With llrength oppos'd again (1: the ftream they lead j. While to the fmoother ford the foot with eafe fucceed^ The leader now had pafs'd the torrent o'er, And reach'd fair Italy's forbidden (here ; Then rearing on the hoftile bank his head. Here farewel peace, and injur'd laws^hefaid :) Since faith is broke, and leagues are fet afide. Henceforth, thou, goddefs Fortune, art my guide. Let fate and war the great event decide. Mr. R o w E 117 } It fliould feem by Suetonius'saccount of the matter, as if there was a bridge over the Rubicon when Caefar pais'd it — Confccutiis. cohorteii ad Riibiconcm fiimen, qui provincice ejus finis erat, -pallium conftitit ; ac reputans quantum moUretur, convcrfus ad proximos, Etiam nunc, inquit^ regredi poffumus ; quod Ji pon- ticulum tranfiernnus^ omnia armis agenda, crunt " 'Tis not " yet too late to go back ; but, if we once pafs this little bridge,. <« every thing mull be decided by the fwoid." The pretended prodigy which Suetonius tells us determin'd. him. to pafs it, is pleafmt enough j and (if there was, indeed, any fuch thing) was doubtlefs an artifice of Cafir himfelf, to fpirit up his army in fo critical a jundlure. CunSlanti ofientum- tale faBiim efi. ^idam eximid mag-^- nitudine & forma, in proximo fedens, repent e adparuit, aruri" dine cancns ; ad quern audicndum, quum, prcetcr pafiores, phi- rimi etiam ex fiationibus milites concurrijjent, interque eos & JEMeatores, rapt a ab uno tuba, profiluit ad fiumen ; G* ingenti' fpiritu clajficum exorfus pertendit ad alteram ripam "Iiinc Ccefar, Eatur inquit, quo deorum ofienta, & inimicorum ini- Appian quitas vocat Ja^a ejl alea. 'I'a^uaiel'"' " A perfon cf extraordinary ftature and beauty of a fudden I'^/c-.^Jw^-j^. **■ appeared near them, fitting, and playing upon a reed-pipe. *"- " The. RIMINI. ^' The neighbouring fhepherds, and many of the foldiers and ^' trumpeters flocking about to hear him, he fnatch'd one of *' the trumpets, and fprung away to the river; and founding a " charge with an amazing blaft, made over to the other fide. ♦' Cajfar upon this cries out, *' Let us go, the prodigies of " the gods as well as the injuflice of our enemies, call upon " us to march on ; — the die is thrown*." Julius Celiusin his Commentary (if it be his) De VitayiiUi Cafar'is, calls it Amnem exigjiiim, Jed magyiariim tunc limitem regiomim, " A fmall river [or brook] but at that time a boun- " dary of great countries." Rimini [formerly Ariminum], the next place of any note we came to, has two confiderable pieces of antiquity ; a bridge of marble begun by Auguftus, and finifli'd by Tiberius Ciefar, as may be feen by an infcription, along each battlement, in large capitals, which are moll of them ftill legible enough ; and, a fair triumphal arch, which now ferves as a gate to the city. This was rais'd for Auguftus Casfar : it confiils only of onearcii. The general bulk of it remains intire ; and tho' the infcription be defac'd a little, and made not fo eafy to be read by the disjointing of the ftones in fome places, one fees they're of a much fairer charadler than thofe on the bridge. There are ibme very fmall remains of an amphitheatre, which make a part of the patch'd-up wall of the Capucins garden behind the convent. There is a ftone above, on the outfide, with this infcription ; Amphitheatri olim P. Semprojiio Cof. excitati reUquias indigitat Sen. Ar. With an index thus. They fliew'd us in the market-piace a ftone, in fhape fome- what like a Corinthian pedeftal : the modern infcription they have given it, fliew what they would have it pafs for — The Suggeftum on which Ca^far harangued his aimy after having pafs'd the Rubicon. On the one fide is • Ut lufir. Fortune reiiquum credent; (for fo it has been gloff'd upon) " as one at " play, who leaves the leil to Fortune." Ant. JugufliK. AnhUp. Tarracomnf. <*. A«- imj'm, y Ahujuorum Momnttntiu Dial. XI. Caius RIMINI. Cai'us Ceefar Dicl. Rubicone Juperato, civili hello, com' milit. fuos hie inforo Ar. allocut. On the other fide, Siiggeftuin kunc 'uetufiate collapfum Cojf. Arim. Menjium Novembris & Decern. MDLV ReJHt. Thefe confuls are Imejlres [officers for two months] a» the gonfaloniers of Bologna ; and thofe \v;ho have tranfcrib'd it ariminenfiiim, in one word, have not copied it exadtly ; tho^ the difference be not very material, and the miftake eafy. In Cxfar's Commentary De Belio Ci'vili, S. 7. 'we have an account of a concio apud mililes [an harangue to his army] at Ra- venna before his coming to Rimini [Ariminum ; ] but nothing is faid of a concio at Rimini ; there is only a mention of his cal- ling in of fome legions from their winter quarters, &c. and his- making fome new levies, during his flay there : tho' 'tis not unlikely a ccncio might accompany thofe proceedings. Julius Celfus indeed does fay, that Csefar did haracgue his army at Rimini ; and adds, that " when he was a boy, a llone was Ihew'd •' in the market-place, on which Csefar v/as faid to have haran- '' gued." Such a flone, we find, is fhew'd there now; andisjuft fuch a proof of the harangue, as one gave of fome unaccountable fort of kick given by a horfe : — S.r, if you make any doubt: of the kick, 111 Ihew you the horfe that gave it. They fliew'd us the church of S. Franccfco, built by Mala- tefta, lord of the place, anno 145a, out of the materials of the old port. 'Tis not yet finifh'd, nor does it feem likely to be fo now. There are tombs within the wall on the out fide, under each window. We faw, within the church, the cell of S. Antonio, where was a fort of gridiron on the floor, which he ns'd to lay himfelf acrofs for mortification. -. We went in this road, for feveral miles, along the fandsby the fea-fide. Some friends of ours, whether caut'ht by the tide, tho' it do not rife high here, or by fome other accident, ha!d;a feafoning in the f'.lt-water. From Venice, where the tide, rlfes full four foot, it diminiflies gradually (as they fay) till be- fore the end of the gulph it comes to nothing at all. About a mile fnort of a little town they call Cattolicn, we pafi'd the river Concha in a cart drawn by oxen : 'twas fo high PESARO. ANCONA. hich \v£ could not get through it in the chaife. It rifes very fuddenly, as many of the rivers in Italy do, by reafon of the currents that fall from the inountain?. We faw feveral towers by the fea-fide, all along from Ra- venna : [one we faw before at Candian] in each of which was & fmall garrifon, as a defence againft the Dulcigneot-Turks who infelt thofe coafts : notwithQanding which, they once gut- ted Cattolica of its goods and inhabitaius. Pesaro [call'd Pifaurum by Carfar] is a pretty pleafant city, the houfes good, the ftreets clean and even, all pav'd with brick fet edge-ways. We Cwv fome good paintings hereof Si- mon Contarini, ufuallycaird Simon dePefaroj but no antiqui- ties. There is in the great piazza a fine fountain, and a lla- tue of pope Urban VIII. We made no ftay at Fano or Senegallla, but came ftrait to Ancona ; there we faw a beautiful arch of white marble, made in honour of Trajan ; " For that out of his own money " he made the port fafer for feafaring people." ^iOi^ ex pe- cwiid Jua for turn tiitiorem navigantibiis reddiderit, as fays the infcription, which is very fair and well preferv'd ; the letters being large, and cut very deep. The arch is only a llngle one, between pillars of the Corinthian order. The key-flone of the arch is (hrunk much, but in no prefent danger of fal- ling. From hence we had a fine view of the port, which lies juft under it. Their town-hall, or exchange, is a handfome building, and well adorn'd with paintings on the citling, 6cc. The city is larger than any we came through in this road; but nothing fo beautiful as Pefaro : it is uneven to walk in, by reafon of many afcents and defcents. We faw fome good paintings in the churches of Titian, Barocci, Guercino, 6cc. At our entrance into this town, the officers of health receiv'd our fede at the end of a long reed ; and fo fmoak'd it over frank- incenfe, &:c. before they touch'd it. LoRETo is a little city fuuated on a pleafant eminence ; the title of a city was given to it by Sixtus V. whofe flatue in LORE T O. in copper is In the piazza before the church. The fta- ple trade of this place confirts in little crucifixes, rofaries, and medals [of the Blefled Virgin and Bambino] to hang at 'em ; with meafures of the length of the Holy Image of Lo- reto, on which are mark'd the particular meafures of the head and waift. The former being bound about the head, they tell you will infallibly cure pains in that part ; and the latter ap- plied to tlie wafte of women in labour, will fave the midwife the trouble of attendance. The ftory of the Santa Cafa [holy houfe] being brought hither by angels from Nazareth, with its feveral ftages, and its being fix'd here at laft j the light that flione over it in its paflage; the celeftial harmony that attended its motion, with the obeyfance the tall trees made to it in a wood where 'twas once fet down, is given with all its circumftances in little books, they put into your hands there; and may be met with in fome of our Englifli itineraries. The houlc itands in the middle of a great and fine church; which they have built about it, as well for further fccurity as vene- ration. 'Tis again more nearly encompafs'd by a moft beau- tiful cafe of white marble; but that not fo as to touch; which they tell you 'twas once intended it fliou'd have done, but the ftones had more manners, than the mafons ; for when they were going to place 'em fo as to touch the facred wall, they immediately recoil'd back of themfelves, nor cou'd they be got nearer than about a foot, which is the prefent di- llance from the fine marble cafe to the plain brick-wall for that, and no other, is the material of the holy houfe ; bricks of unequal fize and fliape, with flat bits of fome other flone here and there interfpers'd : tho' they tell you 'tis all of a flone, not found in Italy, but frequent about Nazareth ; to facilitate the belief that it was brought from thence. The figure of it is an oblong of two fquares or thereabouts ; the length withia may be about 30 foot. It ftands due eaft and weft. Towards the eafi: end there is a feparation, made by a grate-work of filver, of a part which may be about a fourth of the whole ; this they call the Sandtuary ; and here flands the Holy Image. The other part, which is as it were the body of the houfe, has at the upper-end an altar, and at the lower, [i. e. the weft] a windov/, through which, they tell you, the angel enter'd at R the 524 L O R E T O. , the Annunciation. The walls of this part are mofl: of them left bare, to fhew the true original fabrick. But there are feme forry fcatter'd dabs of painting on irregular fragments of plaifler ; thefe are moft of them Madonna's : it is pretended that Lewis IX. they were done at Nazareth by order of S. Lewis of France, when he made his expedition thither, for the recovery of the holy houfe, and holy land, from the hands of the Saracens ; and that we therefore fee his pidure there, he having order'd it to be done among the reft, out of devotion to the Blefled Virgin. The rudenefs of the paintings feems to me to have been induflrioufly defign'd, the better to cover the holy fraud, and give the greater colour to the ftory of its having been painted at Nazareth. In the Sandluary, over the chimney, which they fay the Blefled Virgin made ufe of, flands, in a niche of filver, her rich image, about four foot in height, with that of Chrift in her arms ; but he is in a manner hid, by a golden globe he holds in his left-hand; the right-hand is held up, as in the adl of blefling. The image, they pre- tend, is Cedar of Lebanon, carv'd by the hand of S. Luke : the Scripture tells us he was a phyfician, the Italians have made him a painter too, and thofe of Loreto a fculptor into the bargain. The dark complexion of our lady wou'd befpeak her an Indian queen, as well as the glittering lullreofher robes, than which nothing can be more rich ; and of thefe flie has great variety, for" the feveral feafts that are held in honour of her ; of which that is not the leaft which commemorates the removal of her habitation from Nazareth to Loreto ; flie has a triple crown on her head. This holy houfe is perfeftly crouded with great lamps, of which they reckon 62, gold and filver. One of the golden ones, they fay, weighs 27 pounds, which was prefented, ex voto, by the republic of Venice, for their having been deliver'd by our lady of Loreto from a plague, with which the neighbouring countries were infefled. Befides the lamps, there are angels too of maffive gold, which wait about the holy image. One of thefe, hold- ing a heart of the fame metal in his hand, fet thick with diamonds, and a flame of rubies at the top, was prefented by our king James the lid's queen. The wall of the fanduary are as it were wainfcotted. with fllyer ; being entirely cover'd 6 with. L O R E T O. 123 with plates of tliat metal, wiiich were fix'd there, ex 'veto, for deliverances oi" fevcral forts. In the repofitory within the f.'.ndliiary, they keep with great veneration fome earthen vefiols, which they fay the holy family eat out of: the touch of one of thefe is fufficient to cure fome diftempers ; but wa- ter drunk out of one of them will remove the moft malignant. The outer-cafe, which has already been juft rnention'd, is of the fined marble of Carrara j and a mod: beautiful architedlure. The order is Corinthian, with a baluflradc a-top. The pil- lars, which are plac'd two and two, have, in their narrower intervals, niches one above another ; in the upper row are the ten SibylSi in the lower as many Prophets ; in the broader intervals are baflb relievo's, reprefentiiig the ftory of the Blefled Virgin. The fculpture is very good, by Sangallo, San- fovin, Baccio Bandinelli, and other the beft mafters of thofe times. It has two doors on each fide : at our going in, our (words were taken from us. Fair warning to unarm is given over one of the doors ; Ingredientes cum armis funt excom- tminicati : "All who enter here with arms, are ipfofadlo ex- *' communicated." The crawling of the pilgrims round the holy houfe on their hands and knees, faying over their beads, every now and then killing the ground as they creep along, is very ridiculous ; but fhews fo low a degree of weaknefs and folly, as provokes pity rather than laughter. Befides the rich ornaments of the holy image, of the golden angels, and gold and filver lamps > there are many jewels of great value within the holy houfe; but thefe are nothing in comparifon to the trcafury which is hard by; where the vaft number, variety, and richnefs of the iewels, of the veftments for the holy image, and for the priefts ; with the prodigious treafure of all forts, does almoft furpafs imagination ; far, far beyond the reach of defcription. How prodigal the devotion ! How great a gain is here iiiade of god- linefs ! The room where this treafure is kept, is fpacious and fine; the cieling is painted in compartiments by the cavalier Pomerancio, and there is a crucifixion at the upper-end, for an altar-piece, by the fame hand. The divifions of the com- partiments are of gilded Jlucco [plaifter-work]. They fliew'd us what they very feldom fliew, for 'tis kept fliut up in a fort R 2 of 124 F O L I G N O, of prefs, a Madonna of Raphael, with a Chrift lying on his back, the legs and arms flung up. In the gallery at Parma there is one of the fame ; and they are both avovv'd to be ori- ginals : they are both very fine pidlures. In the church, which is very fpacious, are feme very good paintings by Hanibal Caracci, Fedcric Barocci, Simon Vouet and others. There are three fine brazen gates at the entrance, and the whole front is very noble. The Apoftolick Palace, as they call it, which is juft by, is a fine flruftiire, the defign of Bramante. Under it are large vaults, furnifli'd with butts of wine of a fuitable bulk; for the ufe of the attendants of the holy houfe, and the refrefhment of pilgrims. If the treafure within the holy walls be furprifing, the po- verty without feems not lefs fo ; fuch flioals of beggars, and thofe fo excefTively importunate I They follow'd us from the church to our inn, and were fcarce to be kept out of our chambers. The relieving of fome was only drawing a greater crowd upon you. But let who will flarve without, the holy Corban Vvithin is not to be touch'd. From Loreto, having pafs'd through Rccanati, Macerata, and Tolentino, where nothing very remarkable occurr'd, we foon after enter'd the Apennine mountains, tedious enough in the paflage, by reafon of the many rugged afcents and dcfcents, and fometimes dangerous precipices ; but the vafi; variety of pro- fpedts made good amends. If fome of thefe were rough and horrid, almofi: beyond imagination, the novelty even of that was not without its entertainment ; at leafl:, this very fure effedt it had, that by fo ftrong, and fometimes fudden oppofition, it fet off in a moft furprifing manner, the mofl delicious vales in the world. This fully {hew'd it felf in the vale of Foligno, than which nothing can be more beautiful. This city feems fituatedin the midft of a vaft garden ; fo even is the plain ; fo well water'd, cultivated and planted : the mountains all about it look like fo many high walls to the great garden. In a convent of nuns at Foligno ['tis that called La Contefia], we faw a moft admirable pidture of Raphael : 'twas painted by order of Mifere Gifmondo Conti, principal fecretary to pope Julio F O L I G N O. Julio II. and Sora Anna Conti, (a nun of tliat convent) niece toGifmondo, caus'd it to be brought to Rome, and fix'd there, anno 1565; as appears by an infcription under the pidurc. No doubt, confidering who 'twas done for, Raphatl exerted all tlie ikill lie was mafler of, in this piece. The fubjcrdl: is a Madonna and Bambino in the clouds; below, on one fide are S. John Baptift and S. Francis; on the other fide are likewife two figures; the countenance of one of them is fo like that of S.CarloBorrhomeo, that, had he not been later than Riphacl's time, I Ihou'd have taken it for him : the other I take to l)e the gentleman for whom the pitfture was made ; which is a way very frequent among them. In the middle of the lower parr, a little angel ftands on the ground, holding a fmall box, or cafket, in his hand. The whole pidure is moft highly finifh'd ; yet not fo as in the leaft to diminiili the fpirit of the defign ; it has the neatnefs of Carlo Dclci, with the genteclnefs and ma- jefl:y of its real author: and the colouring, (let fome fay what they will of Raphael in thit particular) is no way inferior to its other excellencies. It is now the great altar-piece to the church of the convent; a treafure which feems very little un- derftood by the ladies who are poflefibrs of it. 1 have feen prints of the Madonna and Bambino, without the other figures. A very pleafant flrait way, like a walk in a garden, of more than a mile, leads from the gate of Foligno to a pretty village. Another fmall town, about four miles further, call'd Treva, fituated on a round hill, lower than the great mountain, is a very pleafant fight ; it feem'd very compadl : and a fpire iteeple juft in the middle, of it has a very good effedt. Pesignano, about two miles further; and feveral little villages and fingle houfes in the way between it and Spoleto, afford very agreeable views. Just before we came to La Vene (the firfl: pofl from Fo- ligno) on the right-hand, a little below the road, but clofe by the fide of it, is a little ancient temple of white marble, Corin- thian order, faid to have been built by the primitive Chri- flians. That it has been for many ages ufed for Chriftian vvorrtiip. (ienda- 126 S P O L E T O. worfliip, is evident enough by fome iiilcriptions on the frieze, which menticn Refurreftion and Redemption, with a crofs thus >f, at the beginning of the fcntences, which fliew con- fiderable marks of antiquity ; but the architedure feems too good for the early times of ChrJftianity, and the building too old to have been made fince the revival of architedure ; from whence it ftou'd feem rather to have been fome old Heathen temple converted to Chriftian ufe. The argument of its having been built by the Chriftians, from its fituation eaft- ward, is of little force j for 'tis well known that that rule is not at all obferv'd in Italy ; any more in the ancient Bafiliche than in the modern churc'hes. That piece of fuperftition is See the Ad- not of Italian growth*: the church of S. Peter in Rome ftands with its great altar to the weft i and that of S. John Lateran [the moft ancient Bafilica] to the north : therefore the eaflward fituation of the church I am fpeaking of, whether it were originally Heathen or Chriftian, feems perfedly accidental. From Foligno to Spoleto is a very pleafant way; planted on each hand, for the moft part, much after the manner of Lombardy; with vines running up the trees. We went round three parts of the town of Spoleto before we enter'd it : the inhabitants value themfelves much upon the valour of their anceftors in beating Hannibal from their walls. Whether he was beaten from their town or no, he might poffibly have had fome difficulty to have found his way into it. We faw the large and very high aqucedufit defcrib'd by feveral ; but the re- mains of an amphitheatre they fpeak of, we were told, are within a convent of nuns 3 and not to be fecn. About three miles beyond Spoleto, we pafs'd the higheft part of the Apennines in this road ; which is therefore called La Somma. In our paflage over the Apennines, we faw the fliepherds cloath'd with jackets made of (heep-fkins, with the wool on J and children with lamb-fkins, after the fame man- ner, barefoot in the fnow. They have a pretty odd way of begging ; they run along the fide of the chaife, throwing daifies, ■which they pick up in luch places as the fnow-drifts have left bare, and other little fiowers in your face, all the while. Now and T E R N I. 127 and tlien we met with an hermit, whofe falutatlon was an offer of holy water to us, and a fprinkling feme of it iiporr us with a fort of afyergilliim, to get a fpill of money. We fiw licini [i/ex] in vaft abundance, on the mountains ; the leaf fome- what like bay, and ever-green. There is great plenty of thefe all over Italy. From Spoleto, we had a rough and bad way, with many precipices, till we came near Terni. We took horfcs to go fee the great cafcade, which is about five miles off, and is in- Cafcade. deed an amazing fight ; the way to it is up a high mountain of white marble : 'tis call'd Monte di Marmore. The afcent is fo fteep, and the marble footing fo flippery for the horfes, that we were forc'd to difmount; and have our horfes led part of the way, and that not without fome difficulty too. The place where the cafcade is, difcover'd itfelf to us fome time before we came near it, by the appearance of what at that dif- tance look'd like a great Irnoke ; but is indeed no other than the particles of water rebounded from the rocky bottom, to a height which is computed to be double that of its fall ; and from that height falls again, in a fort of drizling fhower, upon all the circumjacent parts. The leaves of the trees and flirubs (of which there are many hereabout) are cover'd over with a whitenefs, not unlike what we fometimes fee on ihofe that grow near corn-mills : at firfl: I imagin'd it might be fomewhat nitrous, but upon examination found it otherwife : It feems to be only what fubfides from the conflant fprinkling of the dew : which, as it is all rais'd from the bottom, may well be impregnated with fome terrene particles ; of an impalpable finenefs, or they could never be carried to fuch a height, among particles of water which are themfelves (o fine and light. 'Tis the ancient Velinus of Virgil [now called Velino, and by fome Piediluco] that makes this cafcade : the plain the river runs along before its fall, fo far as we could fee it, has fo little defcent, that it is fcarce perceptible to the eye; yet the current is extremely rapid. This velocity prevents the water from running along the fide of the rock in its fall ; and throws it off, fo that it defcends in a curve. But the depth to which it falls is lb great, that the horizontal velocity, it had in its - channel. JE O L I A K HILLS. channel, bears fo fmall a proportion to that which it has galn'd at laft by its gravity, that it falls plump into the hollow bot- tom ; and it being a whole river that thus falls, it ftrikes with fuch a force, and in fuch a quantity, as to occafion fo vail a •rebound as is above-mentioned. The depth of the fall, fa- ther Kircher fays he has meafur'd to be 300 foot; tho' F. Montfaucon will allow it to be but 100 ; but he fpeaks only as judging of it by view. Though the fall begins in fuch a compadled mafs of water, yet before it reaches the bottom, 'tis very much difunitedj and falls at laft but as a very grofs rain ; which makes it the more ftrange to fee it rain up again to fach a vaft height, and then return in that drizling dew. The hollow at the bottom feems to be very great ; but that is to be judg'd of rather by the found than fight ; for there is fuch a grofs mift, thro' the clafli of the falling and rebounding water, that quite prevents all fight of the bottom. From this bottom it ruflies out all in a foam, labours its way among the rocks, and hurries along in a fliallow channel, till it falls into the Nar of V'irgil, now called Nera. Next morning we made another excurfion, on horfeback, from Terni, to fee the /Eolian hills of Cafis or Ca?fium. The towm, which lies on the fide of the hill, is but a poor fort of a place ; nor likely to be otherwife : we faw no-body at work ; but a parcel of idle fellows, with their cloaks, once black, thrown about 'em (il' Italiano^ lounging and gaping at one another. From the caverns, within that part of the hill which lies above the town, come forth, moft part of the year, ftrong winds ; which they told us are much ftronger in fummer than winter : and fo it eafily may be -, for when we were there, none came out at all ; which was at firll a little difappointment, but afterwards turn'd to our greater fatisfadlion, when we found upon a little trial how the matter was : which in effedl is no more than an antiperiftafis : for the whole feem'd to us to depend upon the temper of the outer air, compar'd to that within. When the air is more rarify'd abroad, the comprefs'd air within rufties out; and (o lice verfd : and of confequence •when the denfity of the outer and inner air is upon a par^ which yE O L I A N H I L L S. 129 which mufl: be fometimes, there can be no current either way. Before the door of the firft cave we canie to was opcn'd, we heard a roaring noife within, like that of the cafcade we had feen the day before : this, together with the raifing our ex- pcdations, as the manner of the Italians is, made us Hand firm, as almoft expcdling to be blown backwards, when the door fhould be opcn'd; but inftead of that, the noife immediately ceafcd, and we felt no wind at all. Well, for all this, can- dles were to be fetch'd, and wc fhould fee them blown out by the wind ; they brought fomc fmall links, and held them to the mouth of an inner cave, which had an opening to that we were then in. They held the link about the middle of the mouth; it fl:ill flam'd, but the flame rather drew inwards; we begun then to be fenfible how the matter was; took the links ourfelves, and held them nearer the extremities of the mouth, where we did imagine what current there was would be itronger ; and fo we found : the link went out, but the fl;ime and fmoak drew into the inner cave. All was now pretty clear. Nor is it, I believe, very difficult to folve the bufinefs of the roaring when the door was fliut, and its ceafing when 'twas open'd. The refinance of the door hindred the free en- trance of the outer air; which then forc'd itfelf in a fmaller, and therefore ftronger current, thro' fuch chinks as it could find ; as the gaping joints of the boards, and the ill fitting of the edges of the door to thofe of the cave : this forcible entrance of the air making that tumultuous grumbling in the hollow cavern; which ceas'd, with its caufe, when the door was open'd. An effeft not unlike this, tho' in a much lower de- gree, we frequently find, in rooms that have been well heated with fire, and the air thereby rarify'd ; a noife is heard while the door is fhut, and ceafes when 'tis opened. They brought us then into another larger cave, which had within it feveral further chafms, which went into the bowels of the rock, and ferved rather to give us an idea of the general ana- tomy of the hill, than any thing new as to the affair of the wind. Then they took us to the church, and Ihew'd us an inlet of air, to fan the congregation in the heat of the fum- mer.— This was at a height in the wall above our reach ; but I put my hand upon another, they (hew'd us in a portico, S and i5LOLIAN HILLS, and found it rather fuck'd in than- otherwife j— a little v^ind I did perceive, as my hand came near the hole ; but not as coming out of the hole, nor to the middle of my hand ; and it was plainly no other than the outer air forcing itfelf, about the edges of my hand, into the hole. At a gentleman's houfe [Signer Spada] we were lighted down by links into a cave; trom whence he had conveyances of air into his cellars to cool his wines ; into his parlour, and other places- The defcent into the cave was narrow and pretty long } and in that paffage there came fo ftrong a current of air, that it blew out the links ; but all ftill inwards. In the upper part of the buffet in the parlour, there was a head with a gaping mouth, like the denmicie fecrete at Venice; over it was this infcription, Aura, quce per acris regionem libera pererrahat ; a Peiro Spada hue vchiti captiva dediiBa, hofpes, tuis cotiatur faimdari deliciis. •' This breathing gale, from its free ranging through " the open region of the air, led hither as a captive by Peter " Spada, endeavours, gentlemen, to adminifter to your re- " frefhment." In the lower part was another fpiramen, to cool the wines, and whatever other liquors fliould be put there. Though our climate rarely (lands in much need of coolers, yet fuch a draught of cool air, brought out of our cellars into the rooms above, in the heat of fummer, might not be difagreeable. From Terni we went on to Narni, a good pleafant road, of about feven miles, and a fertile country. When we came juft below the town, which ftands on a hill, we went out of our way a little further on, to fee the remains of what is ufually call'd Auguftus's Bridge. Writers differ in their opi- nion of it; fome will have it ,to have been a bridge, others an aqueduft ; and poffibly it might have been both; as the Pont du Garde in Languedoc, I have been told, is. Certain it is, that, if we may judge by the prefent condition of the river, the arches are much higher than what had been neceffary to a fabrick that was intended as no other than a bridge over, it ; for there is now a bridge, on which we rtood to view, and where I took a Iketch of thofe ruins : the arches of the modern bridge N A R N I. bridge are by many degrees lower than thofe of the antique one, and yet fuflicient for any height of water. The epigrani of Martial, brought in proof of its being a bridge, may per- haps not very improperly be applied to an aquedudl. Sed jam parce miht, nee abutere, Narnia, ^dnio ; Fcrpettio Uceat Jic tibi ponte friii. Lib. 7. Ep. 92. Preferve my better part, and fpare my friend, So, Narni, may thy bridge for ever fland. Mr. Addison. The ancient aquedudts, as is well known, were brought over arches, in the manner of bridges ; and from the refemblance of this to a bridge, a poet might well be juftified for calling it one. Then, the word [/h^/] may be thought to imply a benefit fomewhat greater than that of a way over a bridge ; and the epithet \;pcrpetiio\ frequently applied to fountains, not impro- perly be transferr'd to a conveyance of fountain-waters. The arches of this are indeed much wider than thofe common to aquedudls ; but the remains of thofe we fee are generally over tra(5ts of land ; this over a river j rapid fometimes, as moft of the rivers of Italy are, by reafon of the fudden melting of the fnow off" the mountains. This bridge, or aquedud:, has con- filled of, I know not whether to fay, three or four arches ; but leave the reader to judge by the annexed draught. Thefirll arch only is intirej 'tis a wide, and very high one. This had no water under it. The fecond is flill much wider, faid to be 170 foot, but feems never to have been fo high as the firft : and the fpring of this arch is much lower on the further than the nearer fide of it ; nor do the parts of the arch itfelf feem to correfpond, which would make onealmoft think that the whole bafis had funk, on which the further fide of this arch, and the nearer fide of that beyond it depended -, and thereby occafioned the ruin of both. The remaining part, I am mofl Inclin'd to believe, muft have been two arches more. The chief reafon for the contrary, is, that that which fliould be the bafis from whence they had fprung, has no refemblance, as to its ftrudiure, to the other two j and might therefore have pofiibly been no more than a plain fquare pillar, rais'd to fupport the middle of that vaflly wide arch (as it muft have been, if only one) S 2 when 132 • Mr. Addi- for. t Narni. U T R I C O L I. when they found it going to ruin. But, as there is no exail cor- refpondence in thofe undoubted bafes which do remain, this ob- jedlion may have no force, nor hinder but that the number of the arches may have been four. It is all built of marble : the pieces are very large, and join'd without any cement, that we could difcover; as feveral other antique buildings are. I have been the more particular in my account of this piece of anti- quity, becaufe it is called by a celebrated * writerone of the flate- lieft ruins in Italy. Returning from hence, we clamber'd up a fteep hill into the -f- town ; which has the name of a ci^y, but is a very poor one ; and we had in the town itfelf, a fpeci- men of the rough roads we were to enter upon afterwards, which lafted till we came near Utricoli, about eight miles from Narni. A little below the road, on the right hand, we went to fee the remains of the old Ocriculum ; where are many loofe antique fragments, and fome intire vaults now employ 'd only to put fheep and cattle in ; the walls were moftly of brick, laid in the manner which they call opus reiiadaticm, or net- work, as here reprefented. ^•^vr-rrr-r=-v-y^vr-vv--; Being paft Utricoli, we had now an ear- V; •■•'Inen: of fome fort of approach towards Rome, ')<: :1 by paffing a bridge over the river Tiber ; tho' y.l'/ ; 1 we had yet above thirty miles to go; about )(/: ')} twenty of them (but with fbme difcontinu- '^'''•'v\Xaa'a )0^ ^"'^^) were over the old Flaminian-way ; ■/s(\^^J^'''^y\t P^^ '^^^^ broad flat pieces of hard ilone /wO^'VV'Xa/^): [feem'd a fort of marble] of irregular fi- liiji.A.K.i'kiii-liiliiZi! gure J as the other old confular ways, we pals'd over afterwards, are. As we proceeded on towards Rome, we pafs'd at fome dif- tance) by the mount Soracle of Horace. Vides ut aha jiet nive candidiim Soradie. L. i. od. ix. See how Soradle's mountain fcarce fuflains Her hoary load ! It appear'd (as I remember) of a roundlHi figure, as the Rekin in Shropftiire, and had then on its white cloathingof fnow. The modern Italians, who are for fainting every thing, call it S. M A Pv I N O. V E L I T R I. 133 it S.Orefte. Monf.Dacier fays 'tis nowcall'd Monte San-Sylveflro, and, by corruption, Monte Treilo, There is indeed fome con- vent or hermitage at the top of it, call'd S. Sylveitro; but the mount itfeJf is called S. Orefte, and is fo mark'd in the map of the Campagna of Rome. About two miles (as they call'em, but they are but little ones), fhort of Rome, we pafs'd the Tiber again, over the Ponte MoUe, anciently Pons Milvius, famous for the defeat of Maxentius by Conflantine. When we enter'd the city, the poftilion durfl; not fet us down at the inn ; but brought us ftrait to the doga- fia, or cuflom-houfe, to have our baggage fearch'd for contra- band goods, or prohibited books ; but they gave us little trouble ; a fmall gratuity made the fearch very eafy. We were pcfter'd much more with crowds of valets, wrapp'd up in their cloaks ; who are always there ready to offer their fervice to Grangers upon their arrival. We made but a fliort flay at Rome this time ; taking the ufual method of travellers, in going to fee Naples, before the weather grew hotj and accordingly fet out for that place the 1 7th of March, N. S. and lay that night at Piperno, the Priver- num of the ancients ; about fifty miles from Rome. At the end of the firft pofl, we pafs'd through an arch of an old aquedudl, which we faw extended a great way, but with fome interruptions. At S. Marino, the fecond pofl, we faw in a church a pidture of Guercin del Cento, the Flaying of S. Bartholomew, the beft colouring and greateft flyle of any of his works that I remem- ber to have feen. At Velitri, the next pofl, a fmall city, Auguflus Ca;far is faid to have been born : The people of that neighbourhood in Suetonius's days thought fo, tenetq ; vicinitatem opinio taiiquarn & ibi natusfit ; and at this day the inhabitants fay the fame thing : but Suetonius fays, he was born at Rome, tho' nurs'd in- deed near Velitri. From hence we pafs'd thro' Cifterna to Sermo- netta. About Sermonetta there is a great deal of fulphur We pafs'd thro' a brook that was all over white with it, and fmelt very ilrong of it. Thence to Piperno, which are two ports, wc had the moft horrid road for a chaife that, I think, can be pafs'd : great ,34 S E T I A. great rough llones, and as bad in every refpecft as a way can be that is pallable at all. In the firft of thofe pods, between Ser- monetta and Cafe Nuove, they fliew, what they fay are the re- mains of the three taverns, where S. Paul's friends met him. On the hill above, is the city Setia -, in whofe neighbourhood grew the vinuin Setimim, formerly To famous. 'Tis call'd by Martial pendula Selia, from its fituation near the brow of the hill. Pendula Poitinos qure fpcBat Setia campos, Exigiid vetulos tnijit ab w'be cados. L. xiii. Ep. cxiiv • Wetrave'l'd Setia, which penfilc views the Pontine fens *, along the fide Old hogflieads from her little city fends. cf thefe fens. ° ^ Nec qua paludes delicata Pomptinas Ex arce clivi fpedlat u-va Setini. L, x. Ep. Ixxiv. Nor the delicious grape, which from the brow Of Setia views the Pomptine fens below. It's wines are frequently celebrated by this poet, and other ancient writers. Pliny fays that Auguftus prefcrr'd this wine to all others, and that it grew above the Appii Forum. Divus jiiigu/ius Setinum vimim prcetiiUt cunBis : nafcitur fiipra Forum Appii, Nat. Hift. 1. 14. c. 6. This paffage feems to be a proof that the three taverns were hereabouts, being mention'd in the Adls of the Apoftles as near Appii Forum; which we find here by Pliny was below the Setine vineyards. For curiofity, we call'd for fome, of what they have now, to tafte, but found Jt very indifferent; and we were told that now-a-days they are fo far from fending wine from thence to other places, that they fetch it from Frefcati, Velitri, and other parts thither: 'Tis a white wine, as mofl of the Italian wines are. Hereabouts, and further on towards Naples, we faw a great many of the Ficus Indica, which are much larger in thefe than in the other parts of Italy. In this road we pafs'd through herds of buffaloes, a four fort of animal, already mention'd : they are very frequent in thefe part?. They are fo fluggilh, that tho' we fluck the points of our Avords into their hides, we could hardly make 'em ftir out of ou • w y. 6 Before VIA A P P I A. ^35 Before we came to Terracina, we enter'd on the Appian- way ; we faw it continued along a marHiy ground on our right The ;«/«</,•, hand, which would have been a nearer way than what we had P^'"/''"'" come; but 'tis now unpsfTlible, by reafon of the condition ofthc tioncd. marHies. Though in fome places it be much broken, and the travelling over it very bad, in others it is wonderfully well preferved, notvvithftanding it be computed to be near two thoufand years old. I know not how the ancient noble Romans came to take fuch fhort journeys over this way, which was then in its perfedlion, as not above fourteen miles in a day: fo computed from Ho- race's account of his journey from Rome to Brundulium ; when in our return from Naples to Rome we travell'd above fifty miles a day, and one day the much greatefl part of our road was over this fame Via Appia in the very unequal condition' tis in at prefent. But we mult not judge of this way by Horace's account of his ftages ; nor reckon that the common rate of travelling in thofe days : for Horace tells us plainly that he and his companions made two days of it from Rome to Appii Fo- rum ; which more diligent travellers had made but one : Hoc itej- ignain dividimus, altiiis ac nos Pracinblh uniim. and then immediately adds — •Minus ejl gravis Appia tardis ; " that the Appian was the leaft irkfome to travellers that were *' not in hafte ;" as intimating choice of inns on that road, for fuch as like to take (hort journeys ; for fo is this pafljge cxplain'd by more than one commentator, and not of the difagreable- nefs to be carried in hafte over this pavement. The middle part of the way, i. e. where the horfcs, coaches, &c. go, is about four yards wide, and flat, not raifed at all with a round- nefs in the middle of that part ; nor does it appear ever to have been rais'd fo ; for notwithftanding its age, and the allowance for its wearing in the middle, had it ever been fo rais'd, it might be difcover'd, even now, in one part or other. A flat border is rais'd, on each fide, for foot people : we faw feveral of them walking along wath fandals, made of buftaloes hide. On each fide we faw remains of feveral old monuments, now much ef- fac'd. It lies in foine parts lower than the adjacent grounds ; and ,.6 T E R R A C I N A. F U N D I. and was, when we went over it the firft time, fo overflow'd with water, by the fall of abundance of rain, that it ran like a brook all along it. About the mid-way between Terracina and Fundi we leave the Pope's dominions, and enter the kingdom of Naples. Near the road-fide we obferv'd an infcription on a fort of monument fet up by Philip the fecond of Spain. Hi funt fines regni Neap, fi amicus veneris, omnia arnica invenies, & puljis tnalis moribiis, konas leges. " Thefe are the bounds of the kingdom of Na- " pies : if thou comeft as a friend, thou flialt find every thing " friendly, and, upon thy putting away ill manners, the pro- •' tedion of good laws." This infcription the poftilions call'd an epitaph, led to it (perhaps) by others, that were really fo, on the fepulchral monuments along this road. Within three miles of Fundi they demanded our paflports. This was be- which we had from cardinal Althan at Rome, without which fore his emi- ^one is to enter the kingdom of Naples. viceroy of In "this road we met with abundance of bay-trees, Laiirus- that kingdom, tjnus, myrtle ; and another tree which is much like it, but was a longer leaf, they call it Purtella ; Spina Ulpana with a leaf like rue, and a yellow flower : Genefter, the fame as our broom : vefcovel, which fpires up after the manner of rofemary, and fuch a colour'd flower, but for the reft, more like juniper : one call'd it Rofetta, another Scopetta, for they make befoms of it. We were forc'd to take fuch names as the country people gave us : what fort of botaniils they were, I know not. Ventref- chi, much refembling the Purtella ; of the berries of this they make oil for lamps, &c. Pianello, like the Licino ; this bears a fruit which they ufe in horfe-phyfick. All thefeare evergreens; as is like wife the cork-tree, [Sugharo.] We pafs'd thro' large and pleai'ant woods of them ; they are large and fpreading trees, as our oaks in that particular ; the leaf diredly like their ever- green oak, which likewife is a large foreft-tree. As we walk- ed along the Appian-way, (which we were induc'd to do for a while, thro' the pleafantnefs of it) we had the better oppor- tunity to obferve great quantities of all of them. When this way was in its perfedion, adorn'd with the many monuments, now in ruins, and fuch variety of cver-greens on each FUNDI. each fide, the feveral objeds (tho'lome of them memento's of mortality) miift Iiave been entertaining to the eye; and might flacken a traveller's pace; and in that fenfc too one might truly lay with Horace, Minus efi gravis Appia tardis. We favv a great many orange-trees in the orchards about Terracina and Fundi, and Ibmetimcs in the hedges about the fields : tho' in the northern parts of Italy they are nurs'd with the fame care as with us ; liich as are not houfed having a thatched flied over them in the winter. Indeed about S. Remo I faw feveral growing in the orchards and fields, as in the parts I am now fpeaking of; but then we mull confider their fitu- ation, defended by the mountains from the north winds, and having the fouth fun diredt, and its refledled beams likevv'ife coming from the fca, full upon them. Near Terracina, Galba was horn, according to Suetonius ; in a village that lies under a hill, on the left hand as you go to Fundi. Ser. Galba natus cjl in villci colli fuppojitd, prope Ter- racinam fmijlrorfum Fiindos petejitibus. Terracina is for Trachina, from the Greek TfAyjvn, ajpera, rudis, (according to M. Dacier) by reafon of the rough rocks on which 'twas fituated. It was anciently called Anxur, or Axur J becaule Jupiter [imberbis] was worfliipped there under that name. Horace gives us its fituation, upon white rocks ; with its old name, Anxur. Impofitum faxis late candeniibus Anxur. Snt. v. I, i. Fundi is fituated in a plain, at the bottom of a hill, and per- haps has thence its name; as another town in our road thither, which is fituated on the top of a hill, is call'd Montagnella or Monticella. The Appian-way goes all along it; and care is taken to keep the fireets of the town well pav'd, perhaps with llones taken out of the broken part of the way ; for 'tis in many places difcontinued. At Fundi, Tiberius was by fome fuppos'd to have been born, as Suetonius tells us, though he dilfcnts from them, and fays, " that more, and thofe of better authority, tell us he was born " at Rome, in the palace [of the Augulli."] Tiberiam quidam T Fundis ni 138 ?vl OLA. Fundis . natim cxijiimaveriint ; feciiti levem conjeBuram, quod materna ejus avia Fundana fiierit ; & quod max fimidachyum felicitalis, ex fenatus confidto, ihi publicatiwi fit. Sed ut plures certiorefqiie tradimt, natus ejl Roma, in palatio. From Fundi, in our way to Mola, we pafs'd through groves of olive-trees, at lead eight miles, the Appian-way continuing all along thro' Itru, 6cc. At A'lola [anciently Formi^e] we {ii\N what they call'd Ci- cero's Garden, [Villa Formiana] : they led us thro' ieveral long vaults under ground ; the wet by long trickling down had per- fedly enamel'd fome of the old walls with a hard crult. What they call his garden (which is now an orchard of orange-trees^ was doubtlefs formerly, at lead a good part of it, the floor of a houfe built over thofe vaults, for in feveral places the remains of the pavement [Mofaick in fome parts] do ftill appear : the refl: might have been the ancient garden. They {hew a round deep bafon, which they call his fifh-pond, at prefent dry. There are fragments of other old walls, now wafh'd over with the fea-waves, but plainly to be feen under them. That Cicero had a villa at Formia2, as well as at feveral other places, is not at all doubted j his own epiftles prove it ; but 'tis not fo free from doubt that this was the very place of it. The extent of this ruin, and the appearance there is of ancient magnificence, feem to befpeak it rather to have been the palace of the Mamurra:. Formise is call'd by Horace, the city of the Mamurra; ; where he fays he took up, when tired with the journey. In Mamiirrararum lajfi delnde urbe manemus, probably becaufe the Mamurra^ deduc'd their origin thence ; and further, becaufe in M. Dacier's opinion, the city did belong to Mamurra ; Car, cet amy de Ccefar (fays he) ejloit tin des plus riches homnes de Rome. " For this friend of Ca'far's was one " of the richeft men in Rome." It is not therefore neceflary to conclude the mofl: remarkable ruin of Formia; to have been the remains of Cicero's villa, rather than Mamurra's, who was proprietor of the whole place. The flill more ancient names of M OLA. 129 of Mola befides that of Formise *, and likewife Hormi;c, were Ivami Urbs, Antiphata; Domus, and Urbs Laefti ygonum. You have the reafon of the three lall in Ovid, who calls it by the name of the firft. IfJife La}?ii '■aetcrcm Lajlrygoiiis, in qui t, in iirbem Vcnimus, Antiphates terra regnabat in ilia. Ov. Met. 1. xiv. — Ji guft, which bore T Oar gallics to the La-ilrigonian fliore, I Whofe crown Antiphates the tyrant wore. J Garth, 'Tis into this port between Mola and Cajeta that Homer brings UlyllVs and his friends, Odyfl". x. where they were fo frighted with that gigantick breed of man-eaters the robuft Lacftrygons, "i^Jiy.oi AAi^fvyoi'n t- VK a.vS'fiaciv iaiMTii ciK>.a. Viydiri. — — — — — — rnv J^i yupci'r/.a, VtfSV 0(TAV r OfiOi KofV(ph Whofe queen they found, vafr, as a mountain's top. • O/'fia'ii/n Formitr, Honm^t ante dicium ut exijllnhwere, antiqua L^Jirygonum fedes, Pliny, 1. 3. c. 5. " The town Formic, before that Hormis, (as fame have thought) " the ancient feat of the Lajftrygons." It was called Hormirs, according to Strabo t <t>c,'ui«(, AaxaiHi-.M KTis-fta, "Off*(a ?,i>.oVt*<"' ^« " Hoffo'- " I'ormia; WES built by a Laco- *' nian, called alfo Hormia;, from its being ati excellent [lation for fliips." hlr. Pope's Jlnnotat. to Odtfey, I. X. t Thefe Lfcftrygons were Sicilians, according to Thucydides, 1. vi. Mr. Pope, to another part of the fame Odyfley, f.iys, " It is evident that the Lxilrypons alfo inha- " bitcd Formia;, a city of Campania'near Cajeta. Thus Horace, lib. iii. od. 17. " AiU, 'vetufio voiiUs a& Lame ' ' Aujiore ab ilh du:ti originem " 9«/ Formiarum mosnia dicitur " Princips " Dacier" [to obviate the difnculty of their being called Sicilians by fome, by others Campanians], " anfuers. That they were originally Sicilians, as appears from Pliny, " 1. iii. C. 8. Flnmina, Symcrthus, Terias, ititus Licjlrygor.ii campi, oppldum Leoniiiu. " And why might not thefe Lxllrygons, or a colony of them, leave Sicily to fettle in " Italy, as it is evident the Phsacians had done, and fix'd in Ccrcyra ? Bochart's opi- " nion concerning this nation is not to be negltcled : The words La.llrygon5 and Le- " ontines are of the fame import : LsrHrygon is a Phoenician name, laii tircam, that is, " 3, devouring lien. This is rendered literally by the Latin word leontinum, and both " denote the f.ivage and leonine difpofition of this people. The word La7nus is alfo of " Phoenician cxtmft: laham, or laha7iui, fignifics -3. devour er i' [and /«^7/« in Arabick, which is a branch of the Phoenician, or rather the new Phoenician itfelf, is rcnder'd by Golius cxprefly /lo, and fo exaftly anlwers in fignification both to L.-c(higon ard Leontinum. Fid. Gol. Lex. p. ZII4. col. ).] " From hence probably was derived " that Lamia, who devoured young infants, mentioned by Horace in his Art ot Poetry, " Ncc pranfte Lamitc 'vivum puerum extrahat ahe, iVIr. Pop£, ulijul'c. T 2 I will 14? M O L A. I will not trouble the reader with any more Greek ; hut perhaps the account Mr. Pope has given us (from Homer) of this people, and his defcription of this port or bay, may not be difagreeable. Six days and nights a doubtful courfe we fleer, T The next proud Lamos' flately tow'rs appear, I And Lieftrigonia's gates arife diftindl in air. J Within a long recefs a bay there lies, Edg'd round with cliffs, high pointing to the fkies; The jutting fliores that fwell on either fide Contradl its mouth, and break the rufliing tide. Our eager failors feize the fair retreat. And bound within the port their crowded fleet j For here retir'd the finking billows fleep. And fmiling calmnefs filver'd o'er the deep. I only in the bay refus'd to moor. And fix'd, without, my haulfers to the fliore. From thence we climb'd a point, whofe airy brow Commands the profpeft of the plains below : No tracks of beads, or figns of men we found. But fmoaking volumes rolling from the ground. Two with our herald thither we command. With fpeed to learn what men pofTefs'd the land. They went, and kept the wheel's fmooth-beaten road. Which to the city drew the mountain-wood. When lo ! they met befide a cryflal fpring. The daughter of Antiphates the king; She to Artacia's filver ftreams came down, (Artacia's ftreams alone fupply the town :) The damfel they approach, and ask'd what race The people were ? who monarch of the place .'' With joy the maid th' unwary ftrangers heard. And ihew'd them where the royal dome appear'd. They went; but as they ent'ring faw the queen Of fize enormous, and terrific mien ; (Not yielding to fome bulky mountain's height) A fudden horror ftruck their aking fight. Swift M O L A. J41 Swift at her call her hufband fcour'ii away To wreak his hunger on the deftin'd prey j One for his food the raging glutton flew, But two rufli'd out, and to the navy flew. Ballc'd of his prey, the yelling monfter flies. And fills the city with his hideous cries j A ghaftly band of giants hear the roar. And pouring down the mountains, crowd the fliore. Fragments they rend from off the craggy brow. And dalh the ruins on the fliips below : The crackling veflcls burft ; hoarfe groans arife. And mingled horrors echo to the fkies. The men, like filh, they fluck upon the flood. And cram'd their filthy throats with human food. It appears by Cluverius that this port, between FormitE and Cajeta, was the port certain! v underltood for that into which Ho- mer brings Ulyfles and his companions, and takes notice of the exadl as well as elegant defcription he gives us of the bay, and of the high promontory above it. And as a further confirmation that this was the port deicrib'd by Homer, he mentions the old authors as all along underflandingit as fuch j and inflances par- ticularly in Ovid, who feigns JEnesLS to have found* Neritius • so Cluve- Macareus one of Uiyfles's companions, in the Cajetan nusinterprets fliore. The paflage of Cluverius is as follows. Ex hifce 'verbis \fc. Homeri'\ fatis diferte paiet, non -|- ad ipfum Lcejfrygonum cppidum Formias adpulfian finxijfe IJlyJfis Homerum, Jed in Cajetanutn Portum, quern graphice atque eleganter defcribit ; una cum fKyri^ o-a/Tctxcii-j-ii, /"■ e. cuvi fpeculd excelsdjive promontorio quod illi imminet, in quo hodie validijjimum cajlellum. Atque ne dubites in lianc fententiam intellexijfe jam inde '■ceteres auSiores Homeri verba, hinc fc. eji quod Oi'idius elia/n t Tho' Ulyfles himfelf, and perhaps the greateft number of his men, did not come to the city, yet, according to Homer, fome of them came both into the city and to the palace too, where they were fo terriSsd with the fight of the monllrous quee::, &c. Mneam 14:: C A J E T A. /Eneam offendiffe finglt in Cajctano litcrc fociuin Uhffis- Neridum Macareimi. Tal'ta convvxum per iter mcrr.orante Sibylla Sidibui Kiibo'icam Stygiis emcrjii in urbtm 'Trdius Mfieus, facrijque ex more Hlatis, Litora adit nondtim nutricis habentia nometu Heic qiioquefiibfiiterat, pojl tcedia longa laborum, Ncrkius Macarevs, comes experientis Ulyjjei. Metam. I. xlv. The Sibyl, mounting now from nether fkies. And the fam'd Ilian prince, at Cumas rife. He fail'd, and near the place to anchor came, Since call'd Cai.eta from his nurfe's name. Here did the lucklefs Macareus, a friend To wife UlyfTes, his long labours end. Garth, That Cicero likewife (who well knew the place, as having himfelf a villa there,) underftood Homer as fpeaking of Formiae, will appear exprefly from an epiflle of his to Atticus, 1. xJ. The very ep. xiii. Si vero in ba?2C * rin.i-jv?.ov veneris ^' Aa^fvyonit!, (Fof:- mtas ciico) qin Jremitus liomtnum ! quam tratt ammi ! " \\ you " come into this wide-gated L^Ellrygonia (I mean Forrr)iae) " what murmurings of men! what angry minds !" C A J E T A. THOUGH it was not now, but in our return from Naples, that we went to fee Cajeta, yet I will here add what little I have to fay of that place. We went to it over the gulph or bay [juft mention'd in the verfes] that lies between that and Mela, \Jiniis Cajetmius, more anciently Amyclanus] though, there is a land-way too along the circumference of the gulph : our pallage over it was what they call four iriiles ; all along which we had a full view of Cajeta, as we had indeed at Mp- la. The fea was as fmooth as glafs, and the profped round us, in a fine morning, as that was, extremely pleafant. i'l Cajeta words of Ho- C A J E T A. 143 Cajeta is built on a promontory, which forms one fide of the gulph, and the buildings are continued to the land-ward a confiderable way along the borders, with fruitful and pleafint vineyards on the rifing ground behind them. Here it is that Virgil buries Cajeta, i^neas's nurfc, and attributes to the place the honour of receiving its name from her. Tu qiioque Utoribiis nojiris, ' JEneia nutrix, /Eternam inoriens f amain, Cajeta, dedijli, Et nunc fervat honosfedem tiiiis, oJJ'aqiie nomen Uefperid in inagnd [Ji qua ejl ea gloria) f.gnant. yEn. 7. And thou, O matron of immortal fame ! Here dying, to the fliore has left thy name; Cajeta Hill the place is call'd from thee, The nurfe of great /Eneas' infancy. Here rell thy bones in rich Hefperia's plain?. Thy name ('tis all a ghofl: can have) remains. Drydek. The moft remarkable thing we faw there was a great fif- fure * in a high rock of marble, which they fay happen'd at the • They call it death of our Saviour. Whether it were fo or no, the rock is i^^Spaccata, torn afunder in a very extraordinary manner. The feparated fics a thing parts feem to the eye to be much of the fame diftance at the top rent, or bunt as they are at the bottom, which may be about four foot, or ^ "" "' fomevvhat more, and the height about that of an ordinary fleeple. The indentures (it I may fo call them) of the feparated parts, tho' very irregular, feem to have an ex- adl correlpondence with each other ; and have a rough- nefs of fuch a fort, as to exclude all fufpicion of art. We can hardly fay the fame of what they call the impreffion of a man's hand in the rock : the ftory they relate of it is, that one, who was told that the rock was thus miraculoully fepa- rated at our Saviour's death, declared his giving no credit to it ; and at the fame time, with an air of contempt, ftruck the palm of his hand againft the rock : the ftone immediately foftened, and received the impreirion they now fliew : which has 144 C A J E T A. has fome refemblance of a band, but a very rude one. We went along this cleft, in a continual defcent, for about 40 or 50 yards ; at the end whereof, is a pretty little oratory or cha- pel, frequently vifited by pilgrims : this is jufl by the fea-fide. From the Spaccata, they led us a long and tirefome walk up to thecaftle, to fee a fight which prov'd very little worth the pains that brought us thither. 'Twas the fkeleton of Charles of Bourbon, conftable of France, who ferv'd under the empe- ror Charles V. at the fit-ge of Rome, and was fliot as he was • Not laid a- fcaling the walls. He is fet upright * in a cafe, as we fee fkele- h'"^'rd'°"'* tons in furgeons houfes; only drefs'd up in a tawdry fuit j with hat and fword. Fie had been new cloth'd with plufli juft be- fore we faw him. In the dome they fiiew'd an antique vafe of white marble; with very fine baflb relievoes, reprefenting the birth of Bacchus : t Pricfteffes, Mercury delivers the new-born infant to a nymph, Bacchantes-f- &c.attendants ^ Satyrs atteodina;. There is an infcription of the name of uponBacchus. , ' , ° f^ ^ . 1 Sal ion the *"^ workman, sAAnifiN A0HNAIO2 f.noiHSE t- It is now Athenian ufed as a font. In the fame church they fhew'd us a pillar, made [it], .^vhich they fay came from Solomon's temple, but, unluckily, in one part of the baflb relievo that is on it, there happens to be fomewhat that looks very much like a reprefentation of Purgatory. On the fummit of a high round hill ftands the fepulchral monument of Munatius Plancus ; of a round figure, as feve- ral other ancient Maufolaea ** are. There are feveral prints of it extant. In our return from Cajeta there were fome friars going thi- ther; and had left orders at Mola, for the people at the inn to get 'em fomewhat to eat againft their return ; — un Spirito Santo — cofi : " a Holy Ghoft, or fo;" when they wou'd not name a pidgeon, it being Lent-time. At Mola, we drank wine, of the Ca,'cuban hills, once fo famous ; 'twas good wine, but might at lealt be equall'd in other parts of Italy ; not iwcQX, as mofl: of the Italian wines are ; 'twas red. " As the Maufolieum Augntli in Rome ; the Moles Adriana, now calllc of S. An- gclo j the monument of Metella Craffi near Rome, &c. The GARIGLIANO. The Csecubus Ager [according to the ancient geographers] was between Formix- and Fundi. Martial teftifies much the fame : CfTCuba Fitndanis gcncrofa coquunttir * AmycUs, Vitis & in media riata palude viret. L« 13. ep. 1 ic. Rich Ciccubans from mellowing Fundi flow. And blooming vines amidfl: the marlhes grow. From Mola, we went along the fea-fide on the Appian way, to the river Garigliano, which we pafs'd in a ferry : part of our road was thro' olive groves. About eight miles from Mola, a little fhort of this river, we faw the ruins of the ancient Minturna. There ftill remains part of an old amphitheatre and aquedudl. Garigliano was anciently call'd Liris : 'tis mention'd by Horace as a very ftill and quiet llrcam : Riira quce Litis qiiietd. Mordet aqua, tacitiirniis amnis. L. i. od. 31. — -thofe rich fields where Liris runs With quiet flreams, and wanton play i The fmootheft of the ocean's fons, And gently eats his eafy way. Creech. It was not fo very quiet a water when we pafs'd It; having been made more rapid by the rains. It was near this river, t!iat the firft battle was fought between the Romans and the Tarentines; when Pyrrhus the Grecian king came to the af- fiftance of the latter, with an army of elephants as well as men. A little further was the ancient SinucfTa, where Horace rejoic'd. fo much at the meeting of his friends. Pkiius & Farias Sinuejfce Virgiliiifque Occtirrunt : aninue, qiiales neque candidiores Terra tulit, neque qiieis f/iejit de-cinSlior alter. O, qui complexus ! (sc. Sat. 5. 1. i. * Some editions read Ahcnis [fc. Fundanis] taking no notice of Amycla-, which was not far from Fundi, U At '45 •146 CAPUA. — . -^At SinuelTa on our way Plotlus, Virgil, Varius too attends, All worthy men, and my obliging friends. Oh, how did we embrace! Creech. This neighbourhood abounded with white fnakes in Ovid's time : — — Niveifque freqv.em Sinuc/Jli colubris. The parts of the country on this fide Rome are more frequent- ly mention'd by ancient writers than any other ; mofl: of their fummer retirements lying this way. After we had pafs'd the Garigliano, we travell'd over a pleafant plain to S. Agatha ; and there we again found the Ap- pian way ; but it left the prefent road a little after we had pafs'd S. Agatha, and fo we loft it for a time; tho' we had it again fometimes between that and Capua, particularly in a village called Cafcaro. CAPUA. N'E.W Capua, through which the road from Rome to Naples lies, is a fmall place ; the emperor was making a new fortification there when we pafs'd ir. They had at that time 400 foldiers there, they have fometimes had 1500. There is but one inn in the town, and that a very forry one. Old Capua, about two miles diftant from the new, hasfeve- ral ancient ruins, among which the chief is the amphitheatre ; which feems by its ^rf«^*, that ftill fliews the original di- nienfions within, to have been larger than tliat of Verona : by the three columns of the outermoft row, which ftill remain intire, with the arches between them, one might alfo trace the line of the outfide, fo as to determine the dimenfions of that too. Thefe columns are of the Doric order. There is a head [or face] in the crown of each arch, but the fcuipture " The oval fpace or coutt within the amphitheatre, which the feats for the fpeftators immediately cncompafs'd. The ground of this court was covered with fand, t^ foak up the blood of the gladiators, of the lions, and other wild hearts, that were eypofcd tl>ere to combat. Vid. Kenmt's andGccd-.vin's Rom. Anti'iKhia, is CAPUA. is not of a very good taflc. Part of the entablature above the arch does ftill remain. The outfidc of this amphitheatre is of ftone, but the for- nices [the vauhs] within, are of brick. We got upon feme of the higheft parts, and from thence had a moft agreeable profpcdl of that fide of the Campania Felix, the molt fertile and delicious fpot in all Italy ; but this fertility induc'd fo much lazinefs and luxury, as in fine prov'd the ruin of the inha- bitants. Inftances of each are deliver'd in fuch ftrong terms by feme of the ancient writers, that the rcciial of a few of them perhaps may not be unacceptable. Lucius Florus gives a moft agreeable account of the whole Campania, and clofes all with that of Capua. Omnium non modo Italia, fed toto orbe pulcherrima Cam- panice plaga eji. Nilnl moUiits ccelo : deniqiie bis fioribus -j^r- nat : nihil ubtrius Jolo : ideo liberi Cererifque cert amen dici- tur : ni/iil liojpitalius mari : hie illi nobiles partus, Cajeta, AJifnus, & tepeittcs fontibus Baice : Lucrinus G" jivernus qu(tdam maris ojiia. Hie atniSIi vitibus f?iontes, Gaurus, Fa- lernus, MciJJicus, & pukherrimus omnium Vefuvius, /Etncei ignis iviitator. Urbes ad mare Formice, Cuma, Puteoli, Nea- polis, Herculaneum Pompeii, & ipfa caput urbium Capua, quon- dam inter tres maximas, Romam Carthaginemq; ?iumerata. Lib. i. c. I 6. " Campania is the moft beautiful region, not only of Italy, •' but even of the whole vvcrld. Nothing more mild and " gentle than its air ; it blooms with flowers twice a year : *• nothing more fertile than its foil; where Ceres and Bacchus " contend for vidtory : nothing more hofpitable than its ihores ; " here are thofe noble harbours, Cajeta, Mifenus, and Bajae " (learning with its hot baths ; and thofe inlets of the fea, '* Lucrinus and Avernus. Here are mountains cloathed with " vines, Gaurus, Falernus, Mafiicus, and the moft pleafant " of all, Vcfuvius, imitating i^^tna's fire. Here are mari- *' time cities. Formic, Cumac, Puteoli, Naples, Herculaneum ♦' Pompeii, and Capua, the head of all, formerly rank'd with " Rome and Carthage, in reckoning up the three greateit cities." It is call'd by Livy, urbs maxima opulent iff maque Italia. • ■ **• the greaiert and moll wealthy city of Italy ;" - . Jed magna s U 2 illat. 147 ,4?? C A P U A, Was opes Jlatm feqiiuta cjl luxuria atqiie- ftiperhla ; — ** but pride " and luxury immediately followed thele great riches." And then v/e find that this luxury made them a prey to their ene- mies the Carthaginians : Cawpr.iios hatid dubk magis nimio hixn fJiicntibus rebus, mollitiaque ftiil, qtiam virtute hojhiim viBos ejje. Liv. 1. 7. " The Campanians were doubtlefs overcome more *' by the excefllve and uninterrupted flow of their profperity, " and their own foftnefs, tlian by the valour of their enemies." Indeed in this place, fo furniOi'd with a profufion of every thing that ferves for pleafure and delight, luxury feems to have fix'd its feat of empire, to be here irrcfiftible, and to fubdue all that come within its bounds : for, as it ruin'd the Capuans, fo^ in a very fhort time, it wrought their revenge upon their conqueror Hannibal, and vanquifii'd them too ; in weakening^ him fo, that after he had deftroy'd the Capuans, he became himfclf a prey to the Romans ; as appears by Valerius Maxi- mus, 1. 9. c. I. At Campana luxuries perqucim utilis chitati nojlrce fuit ; mviBum enhn armis Hannibalem illccebrh fuis vin." cendum Romano militi tribuit. Ilia vigilantijjimum diicem, ilia exercitum acerrijuum, dapibus largis, abundanti vino, ungiiento- rum fragantia, veneris ufu lafciviore, ad fomnmn Gf delicias evocavit : ac turn demum fraBa & contufa Piinica feritas eji, qiium Seplafia ei & Albana cajira eJJ'e ccepcriint. — " But the lux- •* ury of Campania was of fingular fervice to our city ; its en- " chantments contributed more to the fubduing of Hannibal *' than our arms ; and deliver'd up that general, who was be- " fore unconquerable, as an eafy prey to the Roman foldiery. •' 'Twas this, that with the fulnefs of feafting, the excefs of •' wine, the fragrancy of ointments, and the too free ufe of " women, call'd off that moft vigilant commander, that vi- " gorous and pufliing army, to floth and voluptuoufnefs. — And *' then it was that the Punick fiercenefs was blunted and " broken, when the Seplafian and Alhan ftreets became their " camps." — Thefe were two famous ftreets in Cipua, where the ungJicntarii [fellers of ointments] and other affifters of pleafures had their refidence. Tully in his orations ad popiilnm contra Riillwn, fpeaks pretty much to the fame purpofe. But what has been offer'd, is perhaps more than enough. We had now about a dozen miles through Averfa, a little city, to Naples. N A r L NAPLES. 147 THE r6ic] !s (hamefiiJijLhad that leads to this great and fine ' ' city ; but it is remote from its fovereign, always govern'd by viceroys, who perhaps have not thought the care of the roads to be of fo much confequence, as to defervc their no- tice. The mod pleafant fituation of Naples, with its large and delightful bay, have been fo fully defcribed by authors extant among us, that it wou'd be fupcrfluous for me to attempt it. The temperate winters they have, make it the moft agreeable place in the world topafs that feafon in ; and as the Italians in gene- ral are not fond of coming near a fire, fo here they have put it out of their power to do it ; for there is not fo much as a fire- place in many houfes, except only in the kitchen : if a day colder than ordinary happen, a caldano *, with a little charcoal « A vefTcl in it, is all they have to air the room. nr.^^h''"r They have green peafe all winter, and none in the fiimmer, terns at fidc- as we were told; occafioned by the too great heat in that '^^^les here. _ feafon ; though it be very much alleviated by the pleafant fea- arefomcttmVs breezes. We faw the little children, boys and girls, play- of copper, ing before the houfes, quite naked, in the month of March. J°i^,V.''"" °^ The city of Naples, taking it in general, I think may be call'd the finell: in Italy. If in Rome, and perhaps fome other cities, there are finer, and more magnificent palaces, ei- ther the narrownefs of the flreets, or the comparative mean- nefs of the private houfes, takes off from the general beauty of thofe places; but in Naples the beauty of the buildings is in a great meafure equal and uniform : the flreets are large, ftrait, and excellently well pav'd with flat (tones about 18 in- ches fquare ; and to prevent horfes flipping on them, they are pick'd or tool'd fo as to give them a roughnefs. The tops of the houfes are flat, fo as that you may walk on them, and there receive the benefit of the evening breezes ; they are co- ver'd with a hard plaflcr. The Strada di Toledo is the prin- cipal flreet, and is the noblefl: I ever faw, and of a great lengtli as well as breadth. The plenty of provifions, and frequency of people makes it as chcarful, as the rnagnificence of the buildings makes it noble. When you come to the end of it, a turn- ing 3 15° NAPLES. ing on the left-hand brings you to the viceroy's palace, which ftands, in refpedl of the ftreet laft mention'd, as the Banqueting- Houfe does in refpedl of the Strand at London ; and the fea lies on the left-hand, partly as the Thames does here. This palace is the architecflure of the cavalier Fontana, three flories . in height, and of a great length. By it ftands a colofTal flatue of Jupiter, antique, but with modern reparations ; it was brought from an ancient temple near Cumas, which bears the name of the Tempio del Gigante [the temple of the giant,] from this gigantic ftatue. The public granaries are very large; and fo they had need, if what I was told be true, that the magiftrates, intendants of the grain, are oblig'd to furnifh to the markets 60 thoufand bufhels of corn every week. This is the way in moft: of the cities of Italy ; the corn is all brought into the public granaries, and is thence iflued out to the markets ; and of this his Holi- nefs makes a pretty good hand at Rome, between the advance of the price above what it is taken in at, and the fmallnefs of the meafure. Not far from the public granaries is the univerfity, which they call the Studii Nuovi, a large and handfome ftrudure; but it remains, as it has done for along time, unfinifh'd. The churches and convents of Naples are excefllvely rich, . and indeed very fine. The profufion of marble we fee in thenv is fcarcely to be imagin'd ; but the difpofition of it in the in- cruftations is not fo well judg'd, as it is in the churches of Rome : Their putting fuch variety of gay colours together, and- in fo many figures, made the finery appear to me as border- ing a little upon the tawdry. The dome is exceedingly rich- in all forts of ornaments of fculpture, painting, and gilding, as well as marble. Among the ftatues there is one in copper of S. Gennaro [or Januarius], the principal patron or protedor of their city : whofe body is buried in a beautiful chapel un- der the choir: the floor of this chapel is finely inlaid, the roof and all is of marble, bafib relievo's, &c. with flatues- of faints in the wall in niches. Near the great altar above, are two fine pillars of jafper, their pedcftals of verd antique, [a curious green marble]. Behind the great altar is a ftatue ©f fins marble, of cardinal Caraffa, once archbiOiop, kneel- in.? V NAPLES. 151 jng ; 'twas he tlut built the tliapcl under tlic chulr. But tlie fiiicfl: part cf all this nuble church is the chaptl ucdicated to S. Gciiiiaro, where are kept, with the highert; veneration, the head and blood of that taint, with which they Hiew, two days in the year, their famous miracle of liquifying the congealed Mood at the approach of the head. This chapel, (which they call ilTcjoro, the Treafure, from the precious relicks that are in it) has a marble facade towards the church, of a good tafle of architedure; in the middle is a mod curious brafs gate of picrc'dwork, which they fay coft 36 thoufand crowns. The marble pavement and iiicrufiationsX)f this chapel are mofl: rich, the pillars, Sec. of the Corinthian order. There are 19 cop- per ftatiies in niches, of fo many former patrons of their city, whicii they fay cofl: 4 thoufand crowns apiece. But whu gave me the greatcll; pleaiurc was the cupola, painted moft admi- rably by the cavalier Lanfranc, and the corners under it by Dominichino. The church of S. Paolo Maggiore flands wlie.-e was once a ♦ ti-.cv mfai, temple of Caflor and Pollux ; part of which ftill remains and "" '""'■e than ferves as a portico to the prefcnt church. The pillars are. very T. jlroacj^;!,'''' noble and magnificent, of the Corinthian order, Huted : befides "ofPcter.the thofe which are now standing, there are hu^c piects of other "'"^'^'^'^^' 11 1 1*1 *.', ^ ■ "tucsofCaf. broken ones on the ground. At the entrance into the prefent " torandl'oi- church are two dilUchs, one on each fide the door *. " '"'f '"m- " bled c'own; " and altho' Audit iielf Urdus Pollux cunt Cojlore Pet rum . " this intire Ncc mora : prcecipiti marmore uterque ruit. \\ conqucii ^^ Tyndarides vox mi/fajl-rit, palma integra Petri cjl " )«' *"= a'- Dhidit at tecum, PuuIj, trophcea)ibens\. «' lo^fl'triu " it." The cielineof this church is finely painted by the cavalier t ^' '^^°"''* •\ It T • 1-I/--1 r r •/-/• lecm a little Maliimis, and in the iacnily are two fine performances in frcfco odd then, of F. Solimea, commonly call'd Solymini, done in the year i68g. ^\^^ ','"■■, ,, TT I \\ r 1 A -J 1 1 ^ church lliould He was, when we were there [172 i ), elteeni d the compleatelt (>o (as it does) mailer in Italy. One of thele reprcfents the ftory of Simon by st. Paul's Magus ; the o:her, the ccnverfion of S. Paul. We pay a vifit to this exxellcnt mafter, and found him very civil and obliging J notwithftanding fome reports we had heard of him to the contrary : he drefies as an ecdcfiallick, which is very frc- 152 NAPLES. frequent there with thofe that are not in orders. Befides other fmaller pieces of his work, he fhew'd us a large one he was doing for prince Eugene, the ftory of Cephalus and Aurora, extremely beautiful. As I remember, 'tis that part of the {lory where Aurora is taking up Cephalus into heaven, which {lie is faid to have done, when all other means, (he had us'd to induce him to a breach of his conjugal vow to Procris, had prov'd in- effedual. In one church of the Theatins we faw a large and fine piece in frefco, done by his mafter Luca Giordano, Anno 1684, Chrifl: driving out the money-changers. In the fame church is a fine piece of Pietro da Cortona, the death of a faint, with angels above ; and another of S.Francis by Guido, for which, they fay, they gave 400 piftols. Thefe poor fathers ! who have no poflefiions, fubfift all upon charity, and yet muft afk none, to buy piftures as fuch a rate ! The other ornaments in their church befpeak their poverty juft as much as this of painting does. In another church belonging to the fame or- der ['tis that of S. Apoftoli,] is a fine piece in frefco by Lan- franc, the pool of Bethefda, and the cieling all painted by the fame mafter : the other paintings in this church by Guido, So- lymini, &c. the architedture of the church itfelf, the mofaic, fculpture, and other ornaments, intitle it to a place among the firfi: in Naples. The facrifty of S. Domenico Maggiore is painted by Solimea: we faw the defign of it in the prior's apartment at the Car- thufians convent of S. Martino : in a gallery above, which goes round the facrifty, are depofited, in chells, the bodies of the kings of Naples, and others of the royal families. And in the fame place they Ihew the body of a fecretary, who had been ftrangled wrongfully ; they have given him burial here, as endeavouring by this honourable lodgment of his bones, to make fome amends for his injurious death. This con« vent is very rich in plate for facred ufes : they Ihew'd us in the repofitory a large crucifix of filver, ftatues of faints, as big as the life, and candlefticks of 7 or 8 foot high, all of the fame metal. But what is more precious to them than fil- ver, is amanufcript of S. Tho. Aquinas, which they keep with great veneration. In one of the chapels in the church they ihew the crucifix, which fpoke to S. Thomas, Bene Ja-ipjijii de NAPLES. me, Thoina ; " Thou haft written well concerning me, Tho- mas ;" and in t-lie convent they (hew his cell, which is held as lacred. The church it ielf is very larcre, and extremely rich ■in all forts of ornaments. Among the pictures they have a Madonna of Raphael. The church of S. Sanfeverino is finely adorn'd, the cieling painted by Berifario. The marble pavement has a troublcfome ■ibrt of finery, coats of arms in bafib relievo, rifing above it, and ibme of them to a confiderable height : an even floor, however curious, might have been unobierved, but in regard to your own I'afety, you are obliged to take notice of the ornaments of this. In one of the chapels is a beautiful monument of three youths, of the Sanfeverini family, who were all poifoned at the fame time by their uncle, in order to get their eflate : there are ftatues of them with infcriptions, declaring the manner of their death. There is a cloyfter, painted in frefco by Zingaro, the fubjedt is the ftory of S. Benedidl's miracles. In the church of Mount Olivet is a chapel, in the middle of which there is a fine rcprcfentation in terra cotta, [clay burnt] of a dead Chrift, with fevera! figures about him, the Marits, and fome of the difciplts, which are all ritratts of real perfons as big as the life; Alphonfo II. king of Naples, and his fon are two of them : Sannazarius, and his friend Pontanus, are a jofeph and a Nicodemus. Tho' the rcprcfentation of thisfub- jedl be in a manner quite uncommon, yet it is fo natural, tlie figures being plac'd, not in the ufual way of ftatues, on pedeft- als, but upon the floor, in fuch a place and difpofition, as you migiit expect real perfons to be, that one would at firft fight even take them to be fuch. They are the work of Modavino of Modena. There is in this church, befides fcveral other good pictures, a S. Chriftopher finely painted by Solymini. And in the refedtory, the gathering of IVlanna ; and Mary Magdalene vvaOiing our Saviour's feet, of the fchool of Raphael. The church ofS. Catherina a Formello has the cieling finely painted by Louigi Gaigi : and the Cupola by Paolo de Mauheis, a good martcr of this time, but the vaineft I think that ever I faw. The fpeciary, where they keep their drugs and me- dicines for the ufe of the convent, is well worth feeing: they have a fioe colledion of natural curiofities ; among the reft, X they 153 ^54 NAPLES. they fliew what they call .mandrakes, reprefenting both fcxes^ They fliew likevvile the head of the famous Thomas Anielo;. commonly called Maffanello, in plailler. The church, hofpital, and monaftery of the Annunciata, are vartly rich in poffeflions, fome of which are in terra Jirmct, others in gabells [or impofitions] on feveral commodities, brought into Naples j which amount to a very large annual re- venue. Here they have what they call a Pleta for the reception of infants, ballards or others, of which they take in great numbers, Ibmetimes twenty in one night. 'Tis faid that there are belong- ing to this hofpital 2500 nurfes (an incredible number) to take care of fuch as are brought in. When they are grown up, fuch of the girls as cboofe a monaftick life, become nuns; thofe that would rather have hufbands, have a portion given them, fome 100, fome 200 ducats, to marry them, and at fome times they are fet out to be view'd ; we once faw 'em ftanding for that purpofe, putting up their €u%ai yiLfiiixici, their ejaculations for good luck in a hulb.md. They have a further conveniency here, a provifion for fuch as have been married hence, and are become widows, or whofe huibands have over-run them, or fuch as by misfortunes, are reduc'd to poverty; if they return hither, they are receiv'd and taken care of,, with an allowance of all necelTary provifions, notwithflanding the portion they had before receiv'd. The boys, as they grow up, are fome of them put out to trades ; thofe that fliew a genius for learning, are bred up to uie church. I was told a pleafant ftory at Rome upon the occafion of a marriage out of one of thefe places, and by a party concern'd, at leaf! as he pretended. The gentleman had had a man- fervanr, who had quitted his fervice,.and gone into the coun- try : after fome time fpent there, he bethought himfelf of mar- riage ; and came to Rome on a day when the diimfels were fet forth of view, in one of the hofpitals ; I think 'twas that of S. Spirito. The man comes to his old mafter, and tells him he had a mind of a wife, and was come to look out for one among the girls in that hofpital ; and having a great opinion of his mailer's judgment, defir'd he would go along with him, and alTirt: him in the choice of one : the mafter would have excus'd himfelf, that NAPLES. 1S5 tliat none could choofe fo well for another as any man miglit do for himrdf; every one to his own goQc. The fcrvant flill importun'd and the rnafler at laft confents. Away they went to the hofpital ; and the mafler was not long e'er he pitch'd upon one, and propos'd her to John's approbation. If you hke her, Sir, I fliall ; — fo the matter was foon ftruck up ; for thofe lades don't ftand much upon courtfliip. As foon as the knot was tied, the mafler thought his affair was over, wifli'd 'em joy, and was for taking his leave. But John had another favour to afk; which was, that his mafter would be fo good as to take the bride home with him for a day or two ; for that he muft nov/ go about, to look for fome goods to fct up lioufe withal; and he had no place to bring his Jpofa to in the mean time. Why, Jolin, fays the mafter, I would do you all the kindnefs I can ; and your fpoufe (hall be welcome : but, what muft we do a-nights .'' for I have got but one bed.— —John fubmitted that matter to his wifdom, and did not doubt but he would fome way or other contrive it very well.— —And fo (faid the author of my ftory) we did. In a day or two John had made all his purchafes; came and fetch'd away his fpoufe, and thank'd his mafter for the good offices he had done him. The reader will pardon this digreflion. Of all the monafteries in Naples, the moft delicious, and I think the moft magnificent, is that of the Carthufians di S. Mar- tino: It ftands juft under the very high caftle of S. Elmo or Eramo, and is itfelf fituated on fo extraordinary an eminence, that from hence you fee almoft the very ground-plot of the whole city of Naples lying under you, the delicious bay below that, and part of the lovely territory that encompafles both, which on one fide is terminated with a diftindt view of Mount Vefuvius. Here you have a full profpeilof the feaand its ifles, particular- ly that of Caprea, the famous fcene of Tiberius's extravagant pleafures. The prior's apartments would be fit for a prince ; 'twas from an open gallery in them we had a great part of the whole noble profpedl juft mention'd. In one of the rooms, among other fine pidures, they fliew a crucifixion (about two foot long) which they fay is of Mich. Angelo; and to this they tack the old ftory of his having ftabb'd the fellow that was his model, in order morejuftly to exprefs the agonies of a dying man. But X 2 fure )56 NAPLES. fure Mich. Atigeld would have attempted othef ideas, in the reprefentation he intended, than what would arife from the lafl: looks of a poor fellow fo gull'd out of his life ; one would hardly fuppofe fuch a one to have gone out of the world pray- ing for his murderer. We faw another at Rome, in prince Bdrghefe's palace, and a third (I think) at Florence, to which they affix the f.ime ftory. The great quadrangle [which feems a juft fquare, and the fides thereof full as long as the longeft of that at Trinity college in Cambridge] is encompafs'd with a cloyfter, whofe pavement is of marble finely inlaid with vari- ous colours ; and the whole cloyfter adorn'd with a great deal of very good fculpture : the galleries above it, which go all along the four fides, are fupported each by lixty white marble pillars of Carrara, every one an intire piece, and the entablature above them is of the fame material. In one corner of the quadrangle is a burying-place encompafs'd with a handfome baluftrade of white marble, with death's heads (as we call 'em) of the fame, excellently well cut. The monks of this order are in the nature of hermits, each having his particular cell, confifting of two or three little chambers, (one of which is a ftudy) and a pretty garden. They live altogether upon fifli and vegetables, and fome have in their gardens little refervoirs to keep the fifh in. They eat feparately in their feveral cells four days in the week, and the other three days, at a common table, in the refe^itory ; and like others of the hermit-kind, they are not to fpeak when they are together. Thefe cells of theirs are rang'd along the outfide of the cloyfter. "They have large and fine apartments for the reception oP Grangers of their order, where they are handfomely entertain'd for three days. Their church is not fo remarkable for its large- nefs, as for the exquifite beauty of its ornaments j but the facriftyj the treafuries, and other apartments belonging to the ehurch, do all together take up a confiderable extent of ground. The rlchnefs of the materials, and exquifite workmanihip in this church, is really aftonifliing; and if there be any thing to be objedted, 'tis the too great variety of marbles, and other rich ftones, which are inlaid all along the walls and pillars, from the beautiful pavement, which is of the fame materials, quite up to the cieling. This is divided, by ftucco-work giltj into N A P L E 5. 157 into compartiments, which are admirably painted by the cava- lier Lanfranc : other pieces perform'd by that mafler, by Giiido Reni, Cavalicri Arpinas and Maflimo, Spagnolet, and others, however fine, are too numerous to be particulariz'd. I fliill only mention one, as being the lafl: public work of Carlo Ma- ratti, ('tis the baptifm of Chrifl) done in the year 17:0, v.'hich is finely imagin'd ; but the languid execution docs manifeftly Ihew the decay of a great mafter. The ficrifly and the trea- furies are no lefs adorn'd than the church with excellent paint- ings, curious pavements, and cafes or repoQtories, adorned with the richeil inlaid work of various beautiful wood?. The cieling of one of thefe treafurics is painted by Luca Giordano : and at the upper end is a Pieta [or a dead Chrift, with the vir- gin Mary in a mournful pofturc over him] of Spagnolet, much the fined thing I have feen of that maftcr ; and the exprelTion indeed is admirable. Among the various curioficies here, they lliew fome pots of flowers in filver, of admirable workman- lliip, which are wrought with that delicacy, that with the leafl motion they play to and fro, as if fann'd with the wind. They have relicks of faints in great abundance ; bits of bones piled up in a mofl: exadl manner, within glafs -cafes, and the name of the faint infcrib'd on each glafs. He feem'd a good hDncft fort of a prieft that fliew'd 'em us, fo ue ventur'd to aflv him, what authcntick proof they had of the reality of thofe reliques , which we faw in great numbers, and of the names fo regularly affix'd to each. He confefs'd fairly with a fmile, that thcle bones' were indeed taken out of the neighbouring catacombs (a fuflicient magazine to furniOi reliques to a thouland churches) were fent up to his liolinefs, and fo baptis'd by him. Our fliort ftay at Naples, by reafon of our intention to return to Rome againft the Iloly Week, would not allow our fpend- ingmuch time among the palaces. V/e went to fee one of them, as a fpecimen ; 'twas that of the marquis Janfano, who being a rich citizen, had purchas'd a principality *, and in right oi ' 'Pr\rxi% htc that had ftate-canopics eredled in his principal aparrments. His ,-„ Kap^M^and chief apartment was painted by Giae-omo del Po, but unhap- Sicily, pily confronted by fome pieces of Solymini in fome of the rooms. When we went to fee this art id [Giacomo] at his houfe, inftead of (hewing us his pidures, he firft falutfd us with the fight of fome letters prince Eugene wrote to him. We ^5^ N A P L ]■: S. We went alfo into the court of the palace of Dom DIomede de Caraffa, and no further. We there faw feveral ancient in- fcriptions and fculptures ; and, among the reft of the curiofities, the head and neck of a large brazen horfe, anrJently plac'd in another part of the town, and indeed intended to reprefent the city ot Naples, which bears a horfe for its arms. But fome ridiculous people had got it into their heads, that thishorle was made by Vu-gil, thro' his llcill in magick, and that foaie fecret virtue pafs'd from it prevalent againil diieafes in horfes ; for which reafon they us'd to bring their horfes in circular procef- fion about it to be cur'd by it. To put an end to this llrange fort of fuperftition, the brazen horfe was broke to pieces, the body of it made a bell for the great church, and the remaining head and neck were brought to the place where we now fee them. The library of Valetta was too celebrated a thing, to leave Naples without feeing, tho' we could only fee it, which is indeed the mod that a traveller can ordinarily be fuppos'd to do, who has fo many various objedts to employ his obfervations, and fo little time to beftow upon 'em. The real benefit of fuch valuable colledtions is only to be reap'd by thofe who do refide in the neighbourhood of them. But, that we might not only fee covers, they reach'd us down two or three to look into i an Apollonius, Rliodius, in capitals, with accents, printed in 1496 ; an ancient MS. of Pliny's Epiflles ; and another of Tully's Ora- tions j Rrajini Adagia, printed by Frobenius, with Erafmus's emendations, in MS. This library is faid to confift of more than 18000 volumes; all valuable well chofen-book?. It is adorn'd with fome good paintings: there is a ritratt of their famous Malianello, and an admirable one of Cxfar Borgia, (Machiavel's favourite politician) by Titian. They have in the public parts of the city certain buildings, fquare porticoes, open on three fides, which they call Seggi, [feats or fitting- places.] At the upper end, (where there is a lort of tribunal,) and on the cieling, they are finely adorn'd with paintings. Of thefe there are fi.x in all, five belonging to the nobility, and one to the people. Such as are No/^i/i dc Seggi, [nobles of thtfcggio'] are denominated in difcourfe as of fuch or fuch a/eggio. Here they deliberate concerning the affairs of each diflrift of the city, to which fuch a feggio belongs ; and out of the body of eachyJ^^w, they choofe one, whom they 3 call NAPLES, J59 c.iU their ektto [or chofen.] The ektti of the fcveral fcggi meet in another place appointed for that purpofe; where from tioie to time they fettle the price of corn, and make regulations as to the importing and vending it : they take care of the ge- neral matter of vidtual, that the fellers commit no fraud ; they fee that the Greets, the aqueducfts, and fountains, are kept in good repair, with fuch other things as occur for the well- being or ornament of the city. Many of the perfons in office, and fome others, affedl ftill to go in the Spanilli'^refs. We went a little out of town to fee the catacombs, which are indeed an extraordinary fight. They are ancient burying- places, cut out of the rock,, in three ftories; we were only in two of them ; they fliew'd us the place where the entrance was into the third, but it is now block'd up by the fall of the rock and rubbidi. Each ftory that we faw begins with one long and large gallery, which, after fome time, branches itfelf out into others, right and left; and thefe ftill into others, fome bigger, and fome lefs, which run in fome meafure parallel to the firlt; not that much uniformity feems to have been ftudied in the making 'em. Our guide told us thefe galleries run to an extent of ten miles under ground ; we were not like to difprove him : he fliew'd us a pafTjge to a further part, which had been made up, by reafon that robbers had us'd to harbour there, and fet upon people that came to fee thefe folitary abodes ; and that way he told us was the furtheft extent of them. On each fide of the feveral galleries, are rows of horizontal niches all along, five or fix, or fometimes more in height, one over another, cut into the rock; fo that where they are open, the ribs of flone left be- tween them lock like fo many thick flielves, the niches being the hollow fpaces between the fhelves, of a proper length to receive the dead bodies, and into which they were put fide- ways, and fo lay flat upon the fhelf, in full view, till the nich was doled up ; which was done by a fione of about two or three inches thick, fitted to the length and height of the nich, which . had a rabat cut round all the edges, on purpofe to receive the l\one, juft fo far as that it might range with the face of the rock, and to give better hold to the cement, which was neceffary to fallen it in the place. Pieces of thefe clofures, or ftones clo- fing up thefe niches, are in many places flill remaining, and the i6o NAPLES. the rabats are very vifible where the clofure is gone. I am the more particular in this, becaufe an eminent writer, not happen- ing to obferve the manner of clofing up thefc niches, and indeed declaring that there was no clofure to them, argues from thence the loathfome condition the place muft have been in, while fo many corps were rotting there, and the niches all open : and loathfome indeed it muft have been, to fuch a degree, that the ftench muft have been inibpportable, and the very going in impradlicable, had that been the cafe ; but they were all doubtlefs well clofed, and cemented at the edges, as the re- maining pieces of the clofures now are, and as we fee at this day many whole ones in the catacombs at Rome; and perhaps all this care might be little enough. In one part they fliew'd us a large funnel in the roof, about eight or nine feet diame- ter, as I remember, which, tho'now quite clofed up at the top, was formerly in all probability a well from the furface of the wround, down into this vault, by which it had communication with the open air, to let out fome of the ungrateful fmell, (which poffibly might ftill afFedl the place, notwithftanding the clofing up of the niches), or perhaps the damps and ftagnated air, when thefe receffes were remote from the entrance. And if the catacombs were any thing near the extent they fpeak of, there muft have been more of thefe draughts, tho' we did not fee them. Tho ranging of the niches is not very regular, nor are they of equal fize, feeming defign'd to fuit the fize of the corps that was to be laid in each, without much regard to uniformity. Befides the leder galleries, which branch out from the larger, there are fome inlets in the manner of chapels ; thefe have generally the like niches cut in the walls or fides, for recepta- cles of the dead bodies, as the galleriis have: but in fome of ' the chapels repofitories are cut with more trouble and expence, that the b;)dies may be laid in them as in a ftone chell, and the clofure to he by a grave-ftone laid over it; the top of thefe is about three foot above the floor, and the bottom about the level of the floor, and fo the rock over them is cut quite away to a confiderable height, fometimes with an arch at the top, fo as to make a fort of alcove, fometimeS to the top of the vault, without leaving any of the flielves I before men- tion'd : NAPLES. i6i tion'd : Co that the bodies which He in thcfe have no other body direilly over them ; but then in the wall beyond fuch tombs or chelb, from the level of the ftonc that covers tlicm up to the top, are often cut niches in the rock, as in the other fides of the chapels or galleries. In fome places there are two of tliefe chefts, one beyond the other. The chapels proliably were appropriated to particular families : that one of them was fo, is, I think, pretty evident from the remains of a Mofaic in- fcription which I fliall give by and by. If that be fo, it feems to me moft likely, that thofe of the later fort belonged to more eminent families ; and that in the chefis, or places which were to be clofed at the top, the mafter or head, and perhaps mif- trefs of the family might be laid ; and in the niches in the wall beyond, the children or branches of it. I have here prefented two views within the catacombs, which I defigned myfelf upon the fpot. The fmell is fo much gone, only a parcel of dry bones now remaining, (tho' of thefe indeed a vaft number) that there is little more to be perceived, than what we meet wiih in other fubterraneous places. In the Mofaics that we faw, the figures were generally fo deftroyed, we could make nothing of them ; but we made fliift to read the remaining part of one infcription (the other part of it is defac'd) which plainly denoted a particular property in that chapel. The inicription is upon the arch of a circle ; the compafs which the whole took up, feem'd near the quantity of a femicircle ; a Imall part only now remains legible: we read MARITUM IPSA SIBI I A ; but part of the firft M was wanting. Thole who are better vers'd in thefc m.uters, may pofiibly make cut the [I A] to latisfadlion. I fliall only offer my guefs what Seethe that was, ar.d the refl: might be; taking any names that will ,^[,^g'^_'^"' fit the fpace : as Calphurnia Sempronii (for example) propter di- k£lij]imum mar it urn ipfajibijaci voluit Jlpulchrum. It jacere be not the mofl ufual word upon fuch occafions, the whole work is Gothick, and 'tis only allowing the infcription to be fo too. There are frequent paintings in' feveral parts of the cata- combs, but done in a very bad age, in a fort of guazzo [water- colour] upon plailler. Some rcprefent faints, others the perlons buried there, as appears plainly by one infcription, HIC REQUIESCIT PilOCULUS. \Vc obferv'd in one of the Y by- l62 • The Greek manner is with the thnmb and third finger deprels'd, the reft up. The Latin manner is with the thumb, the third and fourth finger depreiled and the firft and middle linger up. t rhis man- ner of writing is very fre- quent in old Mofaics.done in the Gothic times at Rome, and clfewhcre. NAPLES. by-parts two figures : over one was written PAULUS, over the other LAUR both in a pofture of bleffing, one doing it in the Greek manner, the other in the Latin *. He on whom LAUR was infcrib'd, had a garland in one hand. In one place was the figure of a bifhop, and S. lOAN. written on the fide of it J the letters written under one another with aline ftriick -f horizontally thro' the S, much after the manner cx- prefs'd below [i]. In another was JANUARIUS, writ the lame way; and the letters S C S over it, which have odd marks above and below them, and a crofs over all, as in the fecond fcheme below [2] : the S C S moll probably ftands for SANC- TVS. Not that their Great S. JANUARIUS is pretended to have been buried here; but the dormitory could not have been lafe without fome memorial in it of their proUt tore [protedlor.] In another place were reprefented the four evangelills, in the fame elegant tafte of painting. * "P In many places we met with the old cypher for )"4^ Kp/rif *, and fometimes with the addition of A and J- n dcfcrib'd thus -f. I ihall mention only one more ; it is a crofs painted on a wall with fuch letters about it as are here below cxprefs'd. [3] ^J [3] b] S '' 1 s c A s N •^ IC NI I XC KA Miy NAPLES. i( AnJ this is the true writing of nil ihofc letters ; of wliich I t^ok particular notice ; becaufe that for the C [the olil 2j in XC a great man happening to read O, explains that to have Dp. Burnet, been once a 0, and the little line in the bo(bm of it to have been worn out: and upon that fuppofition takes the whole in- fcription to have imported 'ha^f x^irU GF.o's Kn.3., " Jefus «' Chrift GOD overcometh." It is carted to fuppofe it always to have been, as it appears now, without any thing intended for &ii(; and then both thecontradions will be alike in thofe two firft words 5 the line at top feeming as it were 10 tack together the initial and final letters of the words intended in ea.-h. The Mofaic in thefe catacombs, which has been fo much dcftroyed, muft have been very much older than the paintings, or have been done in an age when the art of making the ce- ment for it was not well underftood. This vail fubterraneous work feems likely to have been carried on in feveral fucceflive ages, proceeding ftill further into the rock, as the number of the dead increas'd. It is indeed a very extraordinary fcene of mortality, and has fomewhat very folemn in its appearance; and one cannot but be greatly affedled at the fight of fuch a gloomy region of fo vaft an extent, a perfedl city under ground, with its ftreets, and windings and turnings, every way, on all hands, inhabited wholly by carcaffes. My reader will be glad by this time to get out of thefe folitary manfions ; and where can we go for frefher air than among the bonny hermits of Camaldoli, whofe region is as exalted, as that we have left was low ? The fituation of this hermitage, and the way to it, is the moll romantic that can be ; 'tis about four miles from Naples, on a very high hill, a perfeit labyrinth of a road leads to it, all among woods of chefnuts. When we had gain'd the top of the hill, the firft thing we faw, a little fliort of the convent, was an infcription which forbids any woman to pafs further than that place, under pain of excommunication. But, Quaere, whether there were another fuch at their back-door ? The true name of their order is Ercnvta; San^ce Man-.t ^calce Ccel'i, or, de Scald Coeli : but they are commonly called Hermits of Ca- maldoli, from a place of that name in Tufcany, where the chief convent of the order, and the firft that was of^it, now is. This Y 2 order i64 NAPLES. order was founded by Romoaldo. -There are convents of them in other places, one at Vienna, two in Hungary, fix in Poland, and twenty in Italy. The friars or hermits are all gentlemen, and in a frank gentleman-like manner they receiv'd us : They take it in their turns to be porters, and immediately after the firfl falutation, when ftrangers come thither, is over, they go quick away and fetch the prior, for they are not to fpeak afterwards at all, except in his prefence. The prior defir'd,lhat, ifot-r time would allow it, we would flay and take fuch a dinner as they could provide us ; if not, that we would accept of fuch a re- frefliment as would be no hindrance to us : We chofe the latter; fo they treated us with anchovies, and excellent pickles of fe- veral forts ; among the reft was the caper fruit, in {hape and fize not much unlike our little pickled cucumbers, but (harp- er pointed at one end, delicately crifp and fine. They brought us wine with a liberal hand, in a great pitcher, and e;irthea porringers to drink it out of, which they fill'd up to the brim ; and when they faw us a little ftartled at fo unufual a fight, ef- pecially at that time of day, they bid us " Fear it not, for their " wine had that fingular property, that it would never offend " either the head or ftcmach." So fingular a charadler was not too fiir to be relied on; but indeed the wine was excellent and of their own growth ; vino di Chiaia, was what they called it. They have each a feparate cell, with a large garden, as the Carthufians. Their cells, are rang'd in rows, pointing upon the church, on each fide of it, and not forming a quadrangle as thofe of the Carthufians do. Their church is not large, but very pretty ; and as you ftand in it, the profpeft of their cells through each of the oppofite doors is very pleafant. But the nobleft of profpecSs is from a ftation at the further corner of a common garden, which they have, befides their little par- ticular ones. Here you fee the city of Naples on one hand, with the high convent of the Carthufians, and the higher ca- ftle of S. Elmo all lying under you. On the other hand, Poz- zuoli ; the whole fea-coaft round, to BaisE ; the promontory of Mifenum, and the adjacent iflands : a delightful variety of fea and land, hills and valleys, antique ruins, fruitful vineyards, and pleafant paftures, all at one uninterrupted view. No wonder if in fuch a fituation as this, thefe fathers breathe freHi VESUVIUS. 165 air ; which added to their ?.bftemious diet, and daily exercifc, makes them live to a great age, 80, 90, fome 100 years. Bread and water is their only fullenance three days in the week ; and at other times they never eat rielh-meat, except (I think) in cafe of ficknefs : [the Carthufims not even then.] The feve- ral portions of their time are appropriated to feveral purpofes : feven times a-dny, i. e. the natural day, they are in church, for molt of thefe ftridt orders rife at mid-night to repair to their devotions. They dig one hour in the garden, at the toil of a bell. They do all their offices of life themfelves ; wafli their clothes, which are a fort of white flannel ; drefs their meat, and make their own bread. When they are met upon thefe, or fuch like occafions, they have one to read to them, to entertain their thoughts, and furniH;! matter of meditation, becaufe they are not to fpeak to one another. There is a con- vention once every two years at Camaldoli of the priors of the feveral convents of this order, where exchanges are made of them from one convent to another, and other matters fettled among them. They have a foldier, belonging to the garrifon of Caftello Nuovo in Naples, to take care of their woods and vine- yards, and to fee that no trelpafs be done in them. VESUVIUS. "ITTE took the opportunity, when we were at Naples, of go- ^^ ing to fee mount Vefuvius, which lies fouth-eaft from thence, at the diftance only of four miles, if we reckon but to the beginning of the afcent, and four more they call it up to the top. Jufl at the beginning of the afcent, Hands a monu- ment, with an infcription which is here inferted, giving an ac- count of the tenible manner of its eruptions ; it feems to have been erected by one who had been heartily frighten'd, and had perhaps narrowly cfcaped one of them ; moft probably the flime which happen'd the year this infcription bears date, 1631 ; and a very terrible one that was. There have been feveral ethers fince, as well as before, of which there are large accounts publiHi'd. i66 V E S U V I U S. POSTERI POSTERI VESTRA R£S ACITVR DIES FACEM FKJEF'jLRT DIEI NVDIVS PERENDIKO ADVORTITE VICIES AB SATV SQLIS NI FABVLATVR HISTORIA ARSJT VES^VVS IMMANI SEMPER CLADE H^SITANTIVM NE POSTHAC INCERTOS OCCVPET MONEO VTERVM GERIT MONS HIC BITVMINE ALVMINE FERRO SVLPHVRE AVRO ARGENTO NITRO AQVARVM FONTIBVS GRAVEM SERIUS OCYVS IGNESCET PELAGOQVE INFLVENTE PARIET SED ANTE PARTVRIT CONCVTITVR CONCVTITQVE SOLVM FVMIGAT CORVSCAT FLAMMIGERAT Q\'ATIT AEREM HORRENDVM IMMVGIT BOAT TONAT ARCET FINIBVS ACCOLAS EMICA DVM LICET JAM lAM ENITITUR ERUMPIT MIXTVM IGNE LACVM EVOMIT PR^CIPITI RVIT ILLE LAPSV SERAMQ%'E FVGAM PR^VERTIT SI CORRIPIT ACTVM EST PERIISTI ANN. SAL. CIDIDCXXXI. XVI KAL. IAN. PHILIPPO IV REGE EMANVELE FONSECA ET ZVNICA COMITE MONTIS REGII PRO REGE [mITATIS REPETITA SVPERIORVM TEMPORVM CALAMITATE SVBSIDIISQVE CALA- HVMANIVS QVO M VNIFICENTIVS f ORMIDATVS SERVAVIT SPRETVS OPPRESSIT IXCAVTOS ET AVIDOS QVIBVS LAR ET SVPPELLEX VITA POTIOR TVM TV SI SAPIS AVDI CLAMANTEM LAPIDEM SPERNE LAREM SPERNE SARCINVLAS MORA NVLLA FVGE ANTONIO SVARES MESSIA MARCHIONE VICI PRi^FECTO VIARVM. Pofterity, VESUVIUS. 167 Pofterity, poflerity. This is your own concern. One day furniflies light to another ; this day to the following. Attend ! Twenty times fince the fun was form'd, if llory fable not. Has Vefuvius flam'd out. Ever to the dreadful dcftruflion of the tardy and irrefolute : Left hereafter it furprife the uninform'd, I give this warning. This mountain has a womb Pregnant with bitumen, alom, iron, fulphur, gold, filver. Nitre, and fprings of waters : Sooner or later it will take fire, and, the fea breaking in, will be deliver'd. But not without previous throws. It is convuli'd, and gives convulfions to the ground about it : It fmothers, it flaflies, it dans out flames ; It (hocks the whole atmofphere : It roars horrible, it bellows, it thunders, it drives the neighbourhood out of their Hence, while thou may'rt, [country. Now, now it is in labour, it burfts out, it vomits forth a lake of fire : The ftream rufhes down precipitant, and leaves no time for flight. If it catch thee, there's an end of thee, thou'rt loft. In the year of our redemption cioiDCxxxi the 17th of December, Philip IV. being King, And Emanuel FonfL-ca and Zunica count of Monte Regio Viceroy, [This was fer up] Recounting the calamity of former times, and ilie proper relief for the calamit}'. With equal humanity and munificence. [the covetous. When dreadful, it has been efcap'd ; when flighted, it has overwhelm'd the unwary aud Whofe care of houfe and goods has exceeded that of li.*e. Thou, therefore, if wife, hearken to the ftone that calls out to thee : Mind not houfe, mind not goods, make halle, be gone ! Antonio Suares Meffia, marquis of Vico, • Prsfeft of the ways. The infcription is on a Hiir large marble; and on the fop of :hc mountain (lands the figure ot" the mountain cut in llone. It lifli edition. i68 V E S U V I U S. It is pretty hard to decypher the whole meaning of this In- fcription : the Enghfli reader may fee my guefs, which I have been forced to help out with the addition of fome words be- tween crotchets in one part. If any one diflike it, it is no more than I do my felf j and I give him my free confent to alter it as he pleafes. Mr. MiiTon has publiHi'd this infcription, but not given all of it : fome of the words which he has given are not right; as [pa}-tu»2] inflead of [part la- it], [e;fiigra] inftead of [arnica] with other miftakes, lefs material. His year is wrong ; intheEiig- 1632* inftead of 163 i, and therein not agreeing with his own marginal date. Some of the fucceeding lines which he has left out, he might have fome reafon for omitting, as not finding them very intelligible : but I have inferted them, that the in- fcription may be feen intire ; and that fome body elfe may pof- fibly hit off their true meaning, which I am far from being confident that I have done. As foon as we had pafs'd this monument, we began to afcend, which we did on horfeback for about two miles. On the fliirts of the mountain we found loofe flones of feveral forts, fome light, like pumice, but did not feem of the fame confiftence ; others heavy and hard, like the drofs of the iron and half vitri- fied cinders that we fee come out of the forges : with thefe piled up as walls, they fence their vineyards; which, notwith- llauding the terrible havock made by the eruptions, they ftill venture to plant about the fkirts of the mountain : the exceed- ing fruitfulnefs of the place encouraging them to run fome rifques ; for, befidcs the warmth of the climate, and the na- tural fertility of the foil, the digeftive fubterraneous heats doubtlefs contribute largely to accelerate and perfeft the maturity of the fruits. In our afcent we pafs'd along the fides of fe- veral torrents of fuch matter, as when the vaft and horrid caul- dron boil'd over, came rufliing down in a fiery ftream along its fides. Matter, tho' then liquid, yet now hard enough, lies at the bottom : but it is impolTible for any one to think the whole was ever fo, who obferves the prodigious roughnefs of the furface : perfedl rocks torn out of the bowels of the mountain, and hurried along by the burning torrent, feem fluck as it were in a mafs of melted metals, and vitrified earth and flones, and 7 well VESUVIUS. 169 well cemented together in the lower parts, tho* rifing in very unequal lieights at top. Some part of thefe currents put me in mind of the Thames after a great froft, in thofe places where vaft flakes of ice had been flung up by the tide, and were then frozen into irregular and rugged heaps. A like cfieft, but from how different a caufe ! After we had rid about two miles of afcent, it then grew fo fteep that vve were oblig'd to difmount ; we flriptinto our Wiiftcoats, boots on, by realon of the fand and pulveriz'd cinders ; took a fl;out ftake in each hand, and fo fet out. We kept our way upon the current where that was pracfticablc, for, tho' rough, 'twas firm footing ; when thro' the cxcefTivc rough- nefs, and vaflnefs of ttie fiones, we could not fcramble over them, but were oblig'd to take other paths, we were almoft up to the knees in a(hes and fand, and final] cinders (which came in even at our boot-tops,) and thefe giving way, brought us back, fo that we loll almoft as much ground as we gain'd : 'twas panting work to wade along fo iieep an afcent, with fuch foot- ing. Our labouring in this fand put us in mind of Alexan- der's march over the Lybian defert, as dcfcrib'd by Q^C-urtius. hudlandum cfl non folum cum ardore & Jiccitcite fed ctiam cum tenactfsimo fabulo, quod frcealtum Gf vejligio cedens, agre jiioliunter pedes. '.^ You are to ffruggle not only with heat and " drought, but alfo with the incumberingfand, which is fo deep, ^* and fo yielding at every flep, the feet can hardly work their " way through it." Where we could, we ftepp'd from one lump to another of the drolly fubflance that lay fcatter'd about. Some- times we were forc'd to quit our Hakes for a while, and climb, by the help of our hands, up the craggy pieces of rock that oppos'd our pafiage. When we had at hit gain'd the firfl af- cent, we found ourftlves on a fort of plain ; for fuch is now become that which was the mouth of the former eruptions, but has been fill'd up by the fucceeding eruptions from the now higher parts. Upon our landing (for fo I may call it in re- fprcfl of the fluid fand &:c. we had been wading in) we turn'd back to take a fiuvey of the way we had come ; and as we look'd upon the rough currents we had pafs'd along, their fur- faces, which feem'd fo very irregular, when we were upon them, and like rude heaps hurl'd together at random, at that di- Z ftance ,-0 VESUVIUS. fiance appear'd plainly to have form'd themfelves Into a perfect natural wavy lurface ; which could only flievv itfelf at llich a dirtance as took off thofe afperities, which diftradted the eye, and obftruded its appearing fo at a nearer view, where the eye cou'd not take it in all together. Had one, when {landing upon them, view'd them thro' a diminilhing glafs, he vvou'd probably have ieen the like appearance. Turning again towards the plain we had iuft enter'd upon, we law it full of faioke and vapour, which at firft we took to be all fmoke ; but what we apprehended wou'd have been our greateft annoyance, prov'd fomewhat of a refrediment to us j for it having rain'd that morning, the heat of the mountain rais'd tlie wet again in a fleam or vapour, which was not dif- agreeable, and which allay'd the ftrength of the fulphureous lleams, and real fmoke that was intermix'd with the va- pour ; for the plain we were now on, had abundance of cracks or chinks, thro' which a grofs fmoke ifTued out; into forne of thefe we put bits of wood, and looking at them as we cama back, found them half burnt. Tiie ground founded hollow 1. Sub pcdibus under our ^- feet, and the heat of it was fuch, that we perceiv'd Vife ' " ' ^^ ^° '^ confiderable degree through our boot-folcs, tho" wc were in fo great a heat ourfelves, after our fatiguing march ; and it mufl be no fmall heat that was then greater than our own. Now the thunders and the roarings we had heard in our afcent hither were redoubled ; tho' we were not yet come within fight of the mouth that gave them vent ; for we had ftill another afcent to make, ffeeper than the firll. This lecond flory (if I may fo call it) has been rais'd, and is con- tinually increafing from the frefh matter thrown out of the bowels of the mountain, fin ce the old mouth has been fill'd up. Thus is the bulk of the mountain continually enlarg'd on the outlide, and the hollow of confequence widened within. When we had with much difficulty gain'd the top of this fecond mount, we found the v/hole face of the ground cover'd over with the droffy fubftance above montion'd, of va- rious confiftencies ; and with fulphur of a thoufand colours, from an almofl red, thro' the feveral degradation?, to the palefl yellow, and fome of them extremely beautiful. When we bad travers'd fome time, to and fro, among the fulphup, cinderSj, VESUVIUS, 171 cinders, drofs, and flones, we came within fight of the roar- ing mouth ; and our curiofity led us indeed full as near it as was confillent with difcretion, confidering the temper 'twas then in. Immediately before an eruption, we heard a tumul- tuous grumbling in the dreadful cavern ; then came out a thick black fmoke, which was immediately kindled into globes of fire, and this ftrait fucceeded by a furious flame, and vollies of Ifones, glowing hot, Hiot up into the air : (t)me fell down again into the mouth, others. If riking againft one another, di- verg'd J and one of the fmaller (about the bignefs of a man's head) we found glowing at our feet : we had not heard it fall, thro' the vaftnefs of the other noife ; for, befides the bellow- ings and thunders immediate upon the explofion, the refinance of the air to tiie vollies of (foncs, founded as tho' a thoufand fky-rockets had been let off at once. The thunders, the thick fmoke, and the mountain burning, put me in mind of the defcription given by Mofes of the delivery of the law upon Mount Sinai*. What Virgil fays of Mount /Etna, • Exodxix. does fo exadlly defcribe this, that nothing can be more clofe '^- ^''.- '^• , ,. , ■' " Deut. IV. 1 1. and lively. Inter diimque air am prorumpit ad (Vt/iera nubem, '^rurbine fumantempkeo, iS candente fainlld : Attollitque globos Jiammariim, & fide?-a Iambi t. Inter dum fcopidos, aiJidfaque vifcera inontis Erigjt erublam ; Uqucfatlaqiie faxa fub auras Cum gemitu glomerat, fundoque excejluat imo. /En. 3. Ry turns a pitchy cloud fhe rolls on high, "j By turns hot embers from her entrails fiy, |- And ii.ikes of mounting flames, that lick the fky. J Oft from her bowels mafly rocks are thrown, And fhiver'd by the force, come piece-meal down : Oft liquid lakes of burning fulphur flow, Fed from the fiery fprings that boil below. Drvde.v. When we had obfcrv'd this extraordinary fight a while, we 1 bought it bcft for our curiofity to give way to our fafety ; fcr I think we might have been at leaft as fecure in a befieg'd Citadel. Pliny had paid dear for his curiofity at a much greater Z 2 dJitance. J72 VESUVIUS. diAance. Therefore emica diim licet, was good warning ; but V hen we were determined to comply with it, we were put to a {land a while, by a thick cloud of fmoke that came and intercepted our fight of a ridge of rubbirti we were to go along in our return : but a favourable guft of wind came in a little time, and clear'd the way for us. We were not long in laying hold of the opportunity : we hobbled down the firft defcent as fall as we could, and got to the plain above-men- tion'd; where we examin'd the bits of wood we had put frefli into fome cracks and chinks there, and found them half burnt. Now our defcent was as eafy, as our afcent was difficult, by another way our guide led us to, a perfe6t rivulet of fand and afhes, and pulveriz'd cinders, that ran down along with us : all our care now was to flacken our motion as much as pofTible, for we were perfedly carried away with the ftream. Varenius reckons up twenty of thefe Volcano's in feveral parts of the world, among which Vefuvius bears almoft the chief place. And by what I have heard, more is to be {t&n of this than of x^tna, for the ways up that are now become unpayable. There was a very great eruption of Vefuvius about three years before we were there, at which time it threw out two of thofe fiery torrents which ran down the fides of the moun- • Since Con- tain_ /\ri Englilh merchant * refiding there, with his friend, had a narrow elcapc from being caught between them. It burnt all the while we were at Naples. All day-long we could fee the top of it involv'd in a cloud of thick fmoke ; and towards evening the clear flame fhew'd itfelf. The Neapolitans are eaheft when they fee the mountain burning; for while it has that vent, they are not fo apprehen- five of thofe terrible earthquakes which have frequently made fuch havock among them. Their deliverance from the ter- rors of them, whenever they happen, and their not being con- lum'd by the eruptions of the mountain, which has fometimes fiU'd the very ftreets of Naples with allies, they all afcribe to their protedor S. Januarius. And upon fuch an occafion in the year 1707, they flruck a medal in gratitude to their pro- tedor, Z). Janu. liberatori urbis, fundotori qnietis ; [To S. Januarius, the deliverer of our city, and the founder of 2 cur VESUVIUS. cnr refl.] An inlcription borrow'd from the arch of Conflan- tine in Rome. It is obferv'd, that before any extraordinary eruption, the furface of the fea is lower'd : and the monitory inkription gives it as a precedent fign of an eruption of the mount, that it burrts out upon the breaking in of the fea ; Fchigo injhente pciriet : — if (o, the fame may be the fign and the caufe of it too : for fuch a quantity of water, fo impregnated with fait, rufli- ing into a cavern fill'd with fire, fulpliur, nitre, bituminous matter, and twenty heterogeneous fuhllances, may be fuppos'd to make a terrible rumbling. Such a war of contrary elements pent up in the bowels of the earth, mufl have vent fomewhere, and force their way out, where firlt they can find it. I lliall take leave of this mountain with Martial's agreeable defcription of what it had been in his time, and his account of the change it had fuffer'd when he wrote. Hie eft pampineis viridis modo Vefvius iimhris, Prefferat hie maduios nobilii nva lacus. Hcec juga quam Nyfce colles plus Bacchus amavity Hoc nuper fatyri monte dedere chores. HiVc Fcneris fedcs, haccdamone gratior illi ; Hie Ice us Hcrculeo 7iomine clams erat. CunSia jaccnt Jlammis, & trijli merfajavilhi ; Nee J'uperi vellent hoc licuiffefibi. L. 4. ep. 44, This Vei'vius is, late green with fhady vines. Here from the loaded prefs gufh'd generous wines. Thefe fummits Bacchus more than Nyla's lov'd, Here late in dance the wanton fatyrs mov'd. ' Here Venus dwelt, (Sparta Icfs pleas'd the dame) This place was honour'd with Alcides' name. Now all's on fire, with cinders cover'd o'er ; And the gods wilh they had not had fuch pow'r. On the other fide of Naples, about Pozzuoli, Baiae, Cuiiix, &c. there is a very entertaining fcene of antiquities and curio- fitics. We took a Virgil along with ns in this tour, and with a great deal of plcafure read fuch paffages m his fixth iEneid, 6cc. 73 ^7+ P O Z Z U O L I, &c. •&;c. as referr'd to fome of thele places, in the places them- Telves. From Naples, quite away to Cumx, which is about eight miles, there is the greatelT: variety of objects, and thofe, for the 'jencrality, the moil; plealingof any we law in all our travels. Beginning at the hill Paulilypo, which lies next N.iples, you tind the whole country niofl: delicioully varied every way : there is a perfedl labyrinth of little roads that lead to all the remarkable places difpers'd thereabouts : and the plots of ground, which lie on each hand, inclofed between the feveral roads, are fome of them vineyards, others intire groves of peach-trees, all (when we were there) in full bloom ; others of olives. Other fpots, fovvn with corn, had thefe fruits, with feveral others,- as figs, almonds, cherri:s, S>cc. interfpers'd. Thus beautiful was all that part, till earthquakes and erupticnii made a fad change in fome places. But I am got a little too far; I muft firft take notice of our palling through the Chiaia, (whence perhaps the French giiai, and our key) a mod deli- cious ftrand, adjoining to Naples, having on one hand a noble row of houfes, and the lea on the other, with ranges of trees and fountains between. The fountains have beautiful arches built over them, thro' which the profpedl of the lea, and fome diitant mountains is very agreeable. Here the nobility of Naples tafle the frefco of the evening in their coaches. After this, the tombs of Virgil and of Sannazarius, not far diflant from each other, are the firfl: remarkable things we met with this way. Sannazarius, (well known by his pifcatory ec- logues and many other works) chang'd his name to Adius Sincerus, and two fine ftatues of white marble, which grace his beautiful monument, have changed their names too; an Apollo and Minerva are now become a David and a Judith- 'Tis no new thing in that country to fanftify prophane ilaiues with fcripture-names, that they may appear in their churches without offence. This poet's tomb is in a little, but beauti- ful church, built by himfelf, and dedicated, til fantijjimo parto dclla Gran Madre di Dio, [to the mofl: holy offspring of the Great Mother of God.] It is at the bottom of the hill Pau- lilypo, as thatcall'd Virgil's is on the fide of it. There is a genteel dillich of cardinal Bembo's infcrib'd on the m.onument, in allulion to the fituation, &c. Da P A U S I L Y P O. i-y Di> facro ciiieri fores ; hie ilk Mcironi ^inccrus, mnjd proxlmus, ut tiimulo. Here lies Sincere, (let fiow'rs the place perfume,) To Virgil next in \iirk, as next in tomb. Befulcs a bnfi: of Sannazariiis, which is at th? top of his tm- Tiuuienr, they keep his real llcull in the chapel there, which may perhaps in time become a facred relinue ; and he pals tor a faint, as poor Virgil does for a conjurer. The tomb of Virgil is at the brink of a precipice, which has been made by enlarging the entrance into the famous Grotta Aviiich bears the name of the hill *. The area is almoll: a fquarc, • Paufil/po, of about live yards ; there are fome niches in the wall within> but nothing now in them. At the top of it on the outfidc ar« fome bays, and the people there take care to tell you they grow fpontaneous, and that they are green all the year. There is a wretched diftich infcrib'd on a wall jurt over againft the place wliere we enter, enough to fright away Virgil's afhes thence, if ever they were there. The Grotta fcems to be about half a mile long : the people there call it a mile : 'tis cut thro' the body of the hill, diredly iiraight, and is the publick road from Naples to Pozzuoli, £cc. Two carts or coaches may eafily pafs, if they don't fall foul oa one another by reafon of the darknefs ; added to this darknefs there is a grievous duft, even now that it is paved, which it wlis not in Seneca's time ; it was fo bad then, that he fiys, Ep. ^y. Etiauiji locus luiberet liicem, puhis auferret : ' — ar-qnid tamcn mihi ilia ohfcuritas quod cogitarem dcdit. Stiiji a tie n Jam ithim animi, & Jine tnetu mutationem, qiuvn infolitct ret noviias ac fc^ditas fecerat : rurjiis ad primipii confpccium redditce lucis, alacritas incogitata rediit & injujja. " Tha '• the place had light, the dull: is fuch as v;ouId take it away : — " yet that very gloominefs yielded matter (jf reflection, I felt " a kind of (hock and alteration in my mind, tho' without " fear, caus'd at once by the novelty and oftenfivencfs of a thiiv^- " fo uncouth ; again, at the fird glimpfc of the refjrninL-; -' li^ht, a fudden chcarfulnefs return'd with it, unbidden and. " ur..- J76 P A U S I L I P O, &c. '" unthought of." I believe it has fomevv'hat of a like efFe<St upon every ftranger at his firfl pafling through it. The arch at the entrance appears very high in proportion to the breadth, and is much higher at each end than towards the middle, for the fake of letting in light. Being cut thro' a folid hill, there is no poflibility of its having any fuch thing as windows to enlighten it ; fo that except what comes in at each end, there is no other light than what is darted thro' two floping funrr-ls at the top ; each of which ftrikes a ludden bright fpot on the ground, which, amidft the furrounding darknefs, ferves rather to dazzle than diretfl. The palljge, taking it altogether, is very romantic and uncommon. The paving of it is much after the manner of that of the city of Naples, with broad flat flones. J ufl before the entrance, there are large infcriptions on marble, enumerating the feveral baths which that way leads to, and fetting forth the virtues of them. There is a little chapel hollowed into one fide of the rock within the Grotta, with a fe^w glimmering lamps for devotion to the Madonna, but of very little fervice to light the paflenger ; and there are fome foldiers fet there as guards to prevent rob- beries in a place fo dangerous on that fcore. If the infide of this hill be lb difmal, the outlide is as gay and pleafant ; all be- fet with delicious villa's and vineyards. There is a church there, SanMce Maries ad Fortiman}, which was an ancient tem- ple of Fortune. The villaofVediusPollio was formerly here. As we went along the fea-fliore, we faw feveral ruins of the old Puteoli, as we did of other places, wherever we went in that journey : and we were told, that from the promontory of Surrentum on one fide the great bay of Naples, to Mifenum on the other fide, an extent of above thirty miles, the whole Ihore was once fill'd with fine feats, palaces and temples ; and the remains of feveral doftill appear. Tiberias's fondncfs for Ca- prea, where Juvenal fpeaks of him - angujla Caprearum In rupe fedcnth Cum grege Chaldceo — — . — Coop'd in a narrow ifle, oI)ferving dreams With flattering wizards, and ercdtuig fchemes. Drvden. M O N T E G A U R O. J77 doubllefs Induc'd many of his followers to take their refidence in its neighbourhood. We faw remains of feveral temples built in the round figure, like the Pantheon at Rome, which (whether upon any certain authority, I know not) they diftinguiOi by the names of Apollo, Diana, Neptune, 6cc. One, which is faid to have been dedicated to Venus, has in its neighbour- hood fome apartments, whicii they call the chambers of Ve- nus : thofe certainly have a jail clami to that patronels, what- ever the temple may have ; as may be leen by fome baflb- relievo's * flill remaining in plailler on the roof. The place is intirely dark, fo tliat what we faw of it was all by torch-light. The feveral groupes were divided by bordiirei [or mouldings] into fquarc compartiments ; and I am apt to believe they were flamp"d, from the repetition we ohfcrved of fome of the fame things exadly in the lame manner, and likewife from the maor ner of joining the feveral bordures to one another. The Monte Gauro, once fo famous for its wines, afterwards .became (thro' earthquakes, 6cc.) in a great meafure barren, and continued fo for fome time, infomuch that it obtain'd the name of Monte Barbaro, but has fince been cultivated and planted, and is at this time very fertile in fome parts of it. Hereabouts they fay was produced the famous -j- Falernian wine, and the conful of Naples gave us fome that came from thence, which he would call by that name. This mountain is in the form of a vaft amphitheatre ; and what we call the arena of it is a fine fruitful plain. litre our Cicero told us the ancient Ro- mans us'd to exercife their foldiers. There is a ruin at the top of the mountain on the fide next the fea, which he call'd Julius Caefar's Caftle. Thib Cicero of ours, I think, might have been reckon'd among the antiquities and rarities of the place ; he difdain'd to fpeak any thing but Latin to us ; and though he rode on an afs, he was as learned as if his afs had been a Pega- fus. I know not whether the title of Cicerones for thofe ibrt of • Thefe ha»e fome of them been taken away or oiherwife deftroycd fincc we were there, but Signicr Eartoli has the defigns of feveral of them, whether done by himfelf or his father, I don't remember. f 1 he McJKcum niinum is by fome fuppofcd to have grown on the Mount Gaiirus, «nd the FaUrnum on the plain below it. A a antiquaries ly? M O N T E N U V O, &c. antiquaries be more antient than this old gentleirian, elfe he might pod'ibly have been the occafion of others being fo called; for he ^eems to be an original. Not far from the foot of this mountain, near the fea, is what is left of the famous Lucrine Lake, fo celebrated by the ancient poets for its oyilers; but by that great earthquake, and dread- ful eruption in the year 1538, it was ahnoft filled up. If a lake was almoft loft, A mountain \<ras then gain'd, which they now call Monte Nuovo. This mountain of three miles in compafs, and in height near equal to Mount Gaurus, was form- ed by a moft violent eruption in the place where it now flands *, in one night's time, [according to all the accounts there given] and a terrible night it was. A caftle with a large hofpital, a great many houfes with their inhabitants, cattle, &c. were all deftroy'd. The people of Pozzuoli (whofe fituation gave them a full view of all that happen'd) were in the utmoft confternation to hear the dreadful thunders, to fee the vomit- ings of fire, the ftones and fand thrown up, and the lamenta- ble havock it made, expecting nothing but that they all fhould be deftroyed. In that fright they all ran to Naple's, and for two years their city v^'as uninhabited. Don Pietro di Toledo was then viceroy of Naples ; and feeing Pozzuoli thus aban- doned, and that the people would not return, he took a refo- lution to animate them by his own example ; he fet vigoroufly to work, built a palace there, and came and liv'd in it himfelf, and by that means brought them back. The place having been built only u-pon that occafion, has not been inhabited of later years. We went to the top of a tower in it, whence we faw the remaining efFedls of that eruption which gave oc- cafion to its ftrudlure, and at the fame time had a moft lovely profpecft of the other parts of the country. In one or two rooms we faw fome good frefco paintings, the battles of the Amazons, Centaurs, &c. This new mount is hollow [which feems a proof of its being made by an eruption in the place where it llands] and barren, as confifting of burnt fand, and ftones half vitrified : a great many of the like ilones, pro- ■"^ Blfliop Burnet was mifinfbrm'd, that a vaft quantity of earth was carried from Soj- fatara hither, above three miles, and fo formed the hill called IVlonte Nuovo. bably S I B Y L's G R O T T A; 179. bably thrown' up at the fame time, lie loufc at lume diftance fiocn the hill on every fide. There are in thcfe parts abundance of bathe, and fweating- places; one among them they call Ciceio's, at Baia: ; another Nero's J to him are afcrib'd thofe famous ones of Tritoli, which Hot fpring* could indeed be made by none but an emperor, and fuch a"'^"'^^'- one too as did not value the toil, or indeed the lives of his flaves, who mull; have worli'd hard where the heat was fo fuf- focaiing, that we were fcarce able to (land. There are feveral paflages cut thro' a hard rock, which lead to fprings of feveral degrees of heat : one is fcalding hot. Some of thefe paflages are loo, others from 140 to ibo paces in length. We went into one, and that none of the hotteil, and were hardly perfua- ded before weenter'd, that it was neceflary to ftrip to our fiiirts, but when we had gone a little way, we could almoJl have been contented to have parted with our ikins': that paf- fage is of a breadth but for one perfon, and of the height only of an ordinary man, lo that the heat comes along very power- fully, and at hill is indeed furpriiing, even there : in fome of the other paflages they fay 'tis in a manner infupportable. To- wards the further end there is a defcent to the water, ft:eep and flippery, which makes it difficult enough to keep your feet. I think this is as extraordinary a place as any we met with. Another great curioflty is that vafl: fubterraneous work which they call the Cuma^an Sibyl's Grotta. -The pafl"age they told us Sybil's Gro;v was of three miles in length [all under ground] from one end '^' near Cuma; to the other juft by the lake Avcrnus ; but by earth- quakes, 6cc. is now flufl^ed up with rubbilh, fo that we could not go forward above 100 paces at one end, and about ^00 at the other. In that part next Cumae there is a pair of flairs in the rock which goes winding a little j at the top of thelb is a narrow paflage, which had a communication with what they call the arx jippollinis [Apollo's tower] the remains of which, they flievv above. — — — Arces quibus altus Apolh Traftdet, Virgil. the facred hill. Where Phoebus is ador'd. Dryde.nv A a 2 Th^ iSo A V E R N U S, &c. The defcent at this end, tho' rugged and horrible, is wide enougli : Excifim Enhoicce latus in gens rupis in antrum. VlRG. A fpacious cave within its farmofl: part, Was hew'd and fafliion'd by laborious art. Thro' the hill's hollow fides. Dryden. But that at the other end next Avernus is narrow, and fo low, that one muft crawl on hands and knees to get into it : but afterwards it widens and heightens very much. The prefent ftraitnefs at the entrance is only owing to the obftrucflion of rubbifh, the removing of which would prefent the true mouth of the cave at this end next Avernus, according to Virgil's defcription. Spelunca aha fait, vajloque immanis hiatu Scrupea, Deep was the cave, and downward as it went. From the wide mouth, a rocky rough defcent- Dryden. He then goes on to defcribe the adjacent lake in the condi- tion 'twas then in ; -Tuta lacu nigra nemorumqiie teneh ^lam fiiper hand ulla poterant impune volant es Tendere iter pennis ; talis fefe halitiis atris Faucibus effundens fupera ad convexa ferebat, Unde locum Graii dixerunt nomine Avernum *. • So Dryden read it ; but fome read And here th' accefs a gloomy grove defends, whic"h better And here th' unnavigable lake extends. fuits t!ie de- O'er whofe unhappy waters, void of light, of'''h'°h a'"^ No bird prefumes to (leer his airy flight ; Such deadly ftenchcs from the depth arife, JS IS pro bably a cor- ^nd fteaming fulphur that infeds the fkies. ruption. From hence the Grecian bards their legends make, And give the name Avernus to the lake. ■ Dryden. The A V E R N U S, &c. The trees are now long fince remov'd that corrupted i;s wa- ters ; birds play freely o'er its furface, and the fi(h within it : befides, we may allow the poet, defcribing an entrance into hell, to make the place as difmal as he could. And that this wr.s the aver/ius deftrib'd by the poets, we may gather from Tully, who applies to the laciis avcrnus, in his own country, the lines of one of the old poets, defcribing the entrance of their hell. hide, in vicinid nojlrd Averni Lacus, Ufide animce excitantur, chfcurd umbra, apcrto ojllo Alti Acherontis. Whence ghofts are fummon'd, from the duflcy (liade. The gates wide-open'd of deep Acheron. The many hot fountains hereabouts might give occafion to Homer, whom the other poets follow, to fix his fcene here for the rivers of hell. At the diftance of about 300 paces from this entrance, a great heap of ruhbifh prevents further palfage. A little (hort of that, we turn'd on the right, and went along another way for about 200 paces, and found two cells, in one of which are what they call the Svbyls Baths. On the roof and lides are forne fmall remains of old ornaments of gilding ; and the floor they fay was wrought in I\Io- faic, but that was fo cover'd with water, that we cou'd not fee it; which likewife prevented our going into the room; but it being a fmall one, wc faw it well enough at the door. Op- pofite to this there is another cell, which (as I remember) they call'd the Sibyls lodging-room; out of this there gees an afcent of about 40 or 50 paces, but it is there ftop'd up again by rubbifli fallen in. There is no manner of light but what one brings with one, of torches, &c. Several other paflages there are, ftill open, and many more, no doubt, choak'd up with rubbifli, which therefore wc could not fee. Whether this was really a Sibyl's Grotta or no, 'tis generally agreed to have been tJiat from whence Virgil took his idea ; fo that 'tis at leait the Grotta of the /Eneid ; and in many rcfpedts anfwers the def- cription there given extremely well. C U M yE, J.82 CUM M, &c. CoMJE, while it ftood, was efteem'd the ancientefl city in Italy; built by the Eub^ans. Et tandem Eiiboicis Cumarum ndlabitiir cris. JEn. 6. And reach'd at length Euboic Cuma's fliore. There are now but poor*remains of it : the moft intire thing belonging to it is an old arch, called Arco felice, which is the entrance into the territory of Cumae. This arch is made of brick, and notwitiiftanding its vaft age, the bricks are the moft entire, and beft joined, as well as of the fineft confiftence, and largeft fize that ever I faw. What has contributed very much to its long duration, befides its own ftrength (for 'tis of a great thicknefs) is, that it ftands between two hills, which are a never- failing butment to it on each fide. Not far from hence is the Tempio del Gigante [temple of the giant] fo call'd from the colofTal ftatue of Jupiter, already men- tion'd, which was taken out of it. There is a great nich at the upper end, and two more on the fides. Its vaulted roof is di- vided into fquarecompartiments after the manner of the Panthe- on at Rome. A little further we faw another antique ftru<fl:ure, with a vaulted roof; this feem'd to have been a burial-place, i. e. a repofitory for urns, by the niches about the walls, they being of a proper fize for that purpofe. The remains of Cumce are now very fmall above ground, but by digging among the heaps that are there, a great deal might doubtlefs be difcover'd j and fuch as have taken the pains to do it, have found pieces of walls, incrufted with marble, bro- ken entablatures, pillars and ftatues, which have been carried away to Naples and other places : but the beft that have been found in any of the parts hereabouts, are gone to Spain, which makes us fee fo few at Naples itfelf, in proportion to what one might expedl from the ruins of fo many temples, palaces, and other magnificent ftrudlures which were anciently in its neighbourhood. Our Cicero ftiew'd us at a diftance the remains of the old Linternum, a colony of the Romans, now call'd Patria, and Torre di Patria, from a tower eredted in the place where Scipio Africanus was buried. He had a villa there,^ B A I /E. iSg there, where he ended his days in privacy, havlngmade hlm- leU'a voluntary exul, thro' a dilgull he had taken at the ingra- titude of his countrymen ; and it is faid that the name Patria was given to this dillridl, from his having chofen to make it his country. Valerius Maximus tels a pretty odd rtory, "That " leveral captains of bands of robbers, that had a defirc to fee " Scipio, happen'd to come to this villa of his, for that pur- " pofe, at the fame time. He imagining that violence was their " dcfign, put himfelf and his domefticks upon their guard ; " they perceiving it, fent off their men, laid down their arms, " and coming to the gate, declar'd aloud, that they came to " him not as enemies of his perfon, but as admirers of his " virtues, and earneflly defiring, as a blefling from heaven, •' admittance to the prefeiice of fo great a man. They were " thereupon admitted ; and doing reverence to the very door- " ports, as tho' they had been the altars of fome moft holy " temple, eagerly laid hold of Scipio's hand, and kifs'd it over " and over; and then placing at the entrance fuch offerings " as are ufually confecrated to the divinity of the immortal " gods, returned home tranfported that they had been fo happy *' as to fee Scipio. \ L. 2. C. i,o, 'Twas pretty extraordinary that virtue fliould appear fo amiable to perfons who liv'd upon rapine and plunder. I fliould not have troubled my reader with an old ftory of Scipio, but that I happen to be now at that place of his retirement v/hich was the fcene of it. Having done with Cuma: and its Territory, we'll make a fhort vifit to Baire, the fong of all the poets: I ihall only inftance what Martial fays of it in one place. Lifus bcatce I'encris aurmtr. Baias, Baias juperbce bUnda dona vaturce ; Ut milk laiidem, Flacce, verjibus Baias, Laudabo digne nonfath tamen Baias. L. 1 1 . Ep. 8 1 . Baia?, bled Venus' golden fliore ; BaijB proud nature's richeft ftorc ; Sing Baia[? in a thouflmd lays, You'll ftill fall iTiort of Bail's praife. i84 B A I ^. M I S E N U M. We fee nothing of its nncient buildings, (which were moft beautiful) except a few ruins, great part of which are cover'd with water ; but its delicious fituation remains always the fame, and its port ftill comnnodious for fbipping. For the defence of this, Don Pietro di Toledo, in the time of Charles the fifth, built a ftrong caflle upon a high promontory, jufl at the entrance into the port. What they call the temples of Venus, Diana, and Mercury, bcfore-mention'd, are near the fhore of this port; as is what they fiiew for the tomb of Agrippina. We have the authority of Tacitus, that it was fomewhere in thefe parts Dome/ii- corum curd levem tiimiduin accepit, viam Mifeni propter & vi7km Ca'fciris ditlatoris, Annal. lib. 14. " She had a flight tomb *' made for her, by the care of her domefticks, by the fide of " the way to Mifenum, and near the villa of Csefar the Dida- •' tor." But, that what they fhew'd us was the place, is as little certain as 'tis material. They ftill fhew the remains of the villa's of Csefar, Pompey, C. Marius, and feveral others. bihs'"* '^"^^" Between Baiee and Mifenum is the Fijcina Mtrabilis [wonderful filTi-pond] : we went down about forty fteps into it ; its roof is fupported by pillars, that are incrufted with a plaifter as hard as the ftone it felf; this was doubtlefs a refervoir of water; the cento camerelk [hundred chambers] might poffibly have been fo too: fome will have them to have been a prifon j they can give no certainty of the matter. The firft entrance into this is fup- ported by pillars ; the paffage into the further part is fo low, that one is forc'd to floop, and go almoft double to get into it. The difpofition of the cells, and the pallages from one into a- nother are foodd and out of the way, that it puzzles the curi- ous to find out what ufe they were for. Near this place lie what they call the Elyfian fields, which we walk'd along the fide of, and afterward pafs'd in a boat by the Mare Mortuwn [Dead Sea] toward the promontory of Mife- Mifeniim. num, where Virgil buries iEneas's famous trumpeter : Monte fiib aerio, qui nunc Mifenus ab illo Dicitur, aternumque tenet per facula nomen. /En. 6. Thus v/as his friend interr'd : and deathlefs fame Still to the lofty cape configns his name. Dryden. Virgil's B A I ^. P O Z Z U O L I. i3<; Virgil's words have prov'd true hitherto. Somewhat fliort of the point of the promontory, we faw wliat they call the Grotta Dragonara, another large refervoir of water, its roof fupported by vaft fquare pillars. There are a world of an- cient ruins in this neighbourhood, but no certainty what they are the remains of. Tiie villa's of Hortcnfius and Luculkis are faid to be two of them. We have Pliny's account of the fituation of Hortenfius's fiOi-ponds. j^puci Baulos in parte Baiand pifcinani habuit Hortenjhis orator. " Hortenfius the •' orator had a fifli-pond at Bauli on the fide of Baix'." Thefe Bauli or Baulia {quaji Boau.'ia] is the place where (according to the old ftory) Hercules brought the cattle he had plunder'd from Geryon in Spain. This is by the fca-fide below Baiaj. There are abundance of caverns about Baia; and Mifenum, which we faw the mouths of, but did not go into them. We had been pretty much apiui inferos [under ground] in this fmall excurfion ; and had pafs'd the Acheron and Avernus ; had fcen the Elyfian fields ; and, without the help of a golden bough, made Ihift — — revocare gradum, fuperafque evadere ad aiires. to return, and view the chearful ikies. Dryde^v. At Pozzuoli there arc Aill remaining fome arches of the old Cai;gu'a> mole of Puteoli, commonly called Caligula's Bridge, from its ^"^^c- refemblance to a bridge, as being built upon arches, and be- caufe Caligula did make a bridge from thence quite over to Baiae, an extent of three miles, but not a bridge of llone or brick. Suetonius thinks it miracle enough, and calls \t Novum cic inauditum genus fpcclaculi, " A new and unheard-of kind " of (liew, that he made a bridge of boats, over fuch an extent " of fea; the boats being join'*.! together in a double row, fix'd " to their anchors, and covcr'd with a bed of earth, and fo " carried on diredt, after the manner of the Appian-way/' ContraSIis undique onerariis navibus, & ordine duplici ad ancoras callocatis, fuperje&oque nggere terreno, ac dircSio in Jppi,v Vice fonnam. Vit. Calig. cap. 19. B b Tiierc j86 P O Z Z U O L T. S A L F A T A R A. There are the remains of an amphitheatre near Pozzuotr> and of two circus's, or at kail what are thought to have been lo. We faw in the market-place at Pozzuoli a fquare piece of marble with fourteen figures in hallo relievo, which is luppos'd to have been the pedeftal of a ftatue ereded to Tiberius, upon his reftoring fourteen cities of Afia which were deftroyed by an earthquake. That thefe figures reprefent fo many Greek cities, is part: all doubt, for the names are under-written ; but the figures ara not of fo good a tafte as one might have ex- pecfled to have been done in the time of Tiberius. They fhew'd us at Pozzuoli one of their churches which had been an old temple of Jupiter : fome fine Corinthian pillars^ are now remaining on the outfide. The houfes here are flat at top, as thofe at Naples, and plaifter'd over. Between Pozzuoli and Naples, a little out of the commorr. road, is the Solfatara, and Lago d'Agnano, &c. Solfatara. The Solfatara is a large plain v/ithin the top of a hill,^ which as it were rims it round. On one fide is an opening,, where we enter. In fome refpefts it refembles Vefuvius for its continual fmoke, &c. and was therefore anciently call'd Forum Viilcani, and Campus Phlcgrceus. The fmoke iflues out in feveral places, and in one with a great noife, much after the manner of a finith's bellows when they are blowing- their fire, but much louder, — — — This blaft and flream of fmoke is continued, and not as it were by fits, as that of Vefu- vius is. The mouth of it is very fhiall : the man that fliew'd- us the place, rak'd the little flones that lay thereabout, to it, and- they were blown upwardstoaconfiderableheight. Heheldaniron pick- ax near it, which in a moment's time became fo wet, that: the drops fell from it ; but holding a piece of paper near the fame vent,, that was not v/et at all ; rather more dry than when put there. I know not how to account lor it, unlefs the coldnefs and hardnefs of the iron refifting, condens'd the va- pour, which pafs'd through the more porous contexture and thinnefs of the paper. I remember he held the paper a good deal clofcr to the mouth than, he did the pick-ax ; which had S O L F A T A II A, 6cc. 187 had I confidei'd while we were there, I would have made him change their places, and tried how the effeft would have been then. — A bit of wood put into one of thefe holes is burnt to charcoal, but not to alhes ;-^whethcr it be that the fiery par- ticles are lock'd in as it were, and clogg'd with feme others that hinder the wood from flaming, or that it be only for want of a fufficient inlet of the outer air, which the vapour continually ifTuing out may hinder from entering, or from what other caufe, I leave to the philofophers to determine. The place is all bcftrew'd with lumps of Ailphur of different contexture and colours, and the air lillcd with the ftrong fccnt of it. Thro^ the cracks and crevices of the ground, fteams are continually ri- hng in abundance of places; for the fake of thefe, fuch as arc confumptive, ficc. come frequently hither, and receive great benefit. VVc faw one fitting, and lleaming himfelf near a place ^vhere the fmoke came gently out. The hill is all a perfedl drum ; they are cautious how they fufter horfes to come on it, as not daring to truft too far to the uncertain llrength of the cruft we go upon. The man, how- ever, took up a large Hone, and threw it down v^ith fome force, which made fuch a rihomh (as they call it) as fhew'd a pro* digious hollow was underneath. Befides the vaft quantities of fulphur, here they find abundance of nitre, and the bcft of vi- triol : they likewife here prepare and bring to perfedion their alom, which is digeflcd in cauldrons of lead (found by expe- rience to be better than copper, which they made ufe of be- icre) let a little way into the ground, and there it boils with no other fire than that of the mountain ; — and aftual fire they {ay there does come out of ihofe crevices, whence we faw the fmoke iffue, and is frequently feen in the night, though not vifible in the d-iy-time. . The Lago d'Agnano is likewife furrounded with hills, (0 that Lago d'Aj. the place looks like a vaft bafon, with water in the bottom of "^"°' it : it is about a mile in compafs. The water in feveral places boils and bubbles up as in a kettle over the fire :-^and fire no doubt there is under this. In the deeper parts of the lake, the water thev fay is hot below, though cool at the top : which I believe is true ; for, near the fides of the lake, the little orifices at the bottom, iuft under the bobbles which flicw'J 13 b 2 them- G R O T T A D E L C A N E. themfelves upon the furface, I could perceive fcnfibly warm! to my hand, tho' the water itfelf being fo very fliallow there, be i<ept cool by the outer air. Near this lake is the famous Grotta del Cane ; fo called, be- caufe it is chiefly with a dog they fliew the experiment of the fuffbcating vapour which is there. It was anciently called Chas- ronea Scrobs. This place, to which they give the fine name of a Grotta, is no more than a hollow of about eight or nine foot made in the fide of a rock, in which a middle-fiz'd maii cannot ftand upright. The bottom of it is flat, and out of it there arifes a vapour to the height of about a foot, which waves and curls within itfelf, does nut fcatter, but keeps its furface parallel to the bottom. And tho' you ftoop within the place, keeping your head above this wavy furface, you perceive little or no offence ; fo clofely united does the vapour keep itfelf within that compafs. The dog, with which we favv the trial made, as foon as he was laid down within it, began with a fort of fneezing, then loll'd out his tongue, and foam'd at the mouth, his eyes roll'd and grew dini, he panted much, with a fort of hafking noife, then he went into convulficns, his ftrug- gles (till growing more languid by degrees, till at laft he lay in a manner as dead. Then they took him out, and laid him on the grafs, not far off the lake-fide, where (like Antsus when he had touch'd the earth) he very foon recover'd, andfrillc'd about as if nothing had been done to him. The pretended particular qualities of the lake for recovering animals that have i)een in the vapour, are certainly nothing : the animals cannot breathe within the vapour j as foon as they are brought out of it into the open air, they begin to recover; when they are laid on the ground they receive more refreshment, and more ftill perhaps when laid with their body in the water, and their head on the bank, as is fometimes done. The dog was in the vapour about a quarter of an hour. A viper and a toad both feem'd to prefent themfelves as facrifices to philofophy : by accident we found them in our way to the grotta, and put them both in ; each of thefe liv'd much about the fame time, and that was about half an hour. When they feem'd to be quite dead, we took them out, laid them on the grafs, but no figns of recovery. A fcrvant that was with us, whom we had hired for the time of ROME. itg of our ftay at Naples, took the viper as a dead one, and carried it along with us to Naples : fome hours after, he came to us with a ftory, that the viper had recover'd and had bit him ; but we look'd upon it only as a fham to get money, and did not re- gard him, (for I had feen it dead enough to all appearance, fome time after our arrival at Naples, and had meafur'd it, and found it to be about a yard long) fo we heard no more of the viper nor the wound. I'lie fellow at the grotta fliew'd us the uliial evperiment of lighted torches, which, as foon as held within the vapour, were iinmediately extinguiOied. A fowl, thty lay, dies the (bonefl in the vapour of any thing. At a little dirtance from this peftiferous grotta, there is an-Suciatorii df other as much the contrary. The place b^^ars the name of ^- *^^''"'^"°» / Sudatorii, or Fiimarole di S. Girniano : [the fweating or fteaming-placesof S. German.] There are two or three little cells under one roof, with feats or forts of couches in them, cut out of the (ulphurous rock, where people may fit or lie and fweat, and at the fame time fnufFup the fleams, which arc fo llrong and fudbcating, and the heat fo intenfe, that a perfon in health c.ires not how (hort a time he ftays in the place: but there are vifitants to it fometimes from Naples, that mull be content not to make too mucii hafte out of it. Thele are the principal things we obferv'd in Naples, and the country about it, during our fliort iVay there. R O M E. TXTE made the more halle from Naples to Rome, in cxpec- ^^ tation of feeing the ceremonies of the Holy Week; but the principal were omitted, by reafon of the death of the pops [Clement XL] which had happen'd a little before. We faw one thing there during Ontfcde vacantc, which wa^ much difcourag'd by Clem. XI. in his life-time. A piece of dif- cipline which fome zealots cxercife upon themlelves with a fort of fcourge made of fcveral twilled cords, in which were interwoven ends of pins, or fome fort of wire i with thefe they fcourg'd and fladi'd themlelves to a horrible degree, walking along the flreets. Their faces were veil'd j they had nothing 190 R O M E. on from their walil upwards but their fliirts, which had a flit open at the back, that the bare flcin might receive the ftrokes, which leem'd to be given pretty heartily, all in one fpot, which was as raw as one can imagine. ^What ends, other than bare penitence they propofe to themfelves in thefe exerciles, I know not ; but feme parts of their behaviour feem ill to fuit with that ; if what is fiid they do fometimes be true, that they play tricks with the people they pais by, and dalh their blood in their faces and upon their cloaths. Thole that play thefe fort of tricks are mofl likely to be fuch as difcipline themfelves for hire, which has been a pretty common praftice ; and thofe that pay them have the merit of the penance. I have been told there arc fome fellows at Naples, that make it their bufinefs to flafh them- felves thus for other people's fins ; and if no body happen to employ them, they are forc'd to do it for their own, their con- flitution requiring afcarification at that time of year, by having been accuftom'd to it. . Clement XL died the 19th of March 172 i, N. S. after a reign of twenty years, and about three months. He was efteem'd a man of learning, and aftable behaviour, and gave patient audi- ence to the meancfl: : however, his fubjedts thought he had reign'd long enough. The Romans pleafe themfelves with the jubilee of a new promotion ; the court-favours are then to run in a new channel, and every man is in hopes of fome bene- fit by the change. The conclave for the eledlion of the new pope fate about five weeks, which is reckon'd but a fhort time. It was fhut up the 30th of March, and the new pope was proclaim'd the 8th of May by cardinal Panfilio, who came to t\\t Loggia della Bene- ditione, over the noble portico which is at the entrance into S. Peter's church, there with a thundering voice he fpoke as follows : AiiJiuncio vobis gaudlum magnum : papain habemus ; ennnen~ lij/imiim & re-verendijfimum patrem ac dominum Mich. Ange- iiim, titulo S. S. ^{irici & 'Julita facrcs Rom. eccl. presby- tcrutn, cardinalem de Comitibus, qui nomcn fibl a[lumpj:t Inno- CENTiUM Xlir. " I bring you tidings of great joy, we have a pope ; the *' moll: reverend father and- lord Michael Angelo, pried of " the ROME. J 9* " the holy Roman church, cardinal de Contf, with tlie title* " ot S. Quiricus and jiilit.i, who has taken upon him liie *' name of Innocint XIII." This fort of Annunciation to the people feems to have a plain allufioa to that of the angel to th€ fhepherds, upon the birth of our Saviour ; " behold I brinq you glad tidings of great " joy." When he had done fpeaking, he dropt a paper, which contain'd the fame words, down among the people. " Immedi- ately after a pope is chofcn, the mob run and rifle the pa- lace he had when cardinal ; and fuch as have a prcfptd of being chofen, do therefore remove the richeft of their furniture before-hand. In the atternoon of the fame day his new holi- ncfs went to S. Peter's church to receive the third adoration of the cardinals [the two firH: had been made in the chapel of Sixtus IV. within the palace of the Vatican] and to give his firft bcnedidlion to the people. Hisholinefs fate on the great altar; then the cardinal dean [Tanara] beginning to chant the TV Dcuin, was followed by ihc muhcians of the chapel. At the adoration the carviinals kif^ the pope's foot, then his hand, and then his cheek : the lafi: they call being rcceiv'd ad ofcnlinn & amplcxnm [to the kifs and the embrace;] for his holmefs at the fame time embraces them. As foon as the adoration was over, and the prayers ufual on this occafion, all was concluded with the benediction. On the i8th of the fame month was the coronation ; before that ceremony a pontifical mafs was. celebrated by the pope himlelf in the church of S. Peter; his holinefs fucks the facramental wine thro' a tube, all other pricfts and biHiops drink it out of the chalice. As he was carried from the chapel of S. Gregory (where were perform'd fome fundions preparatory to the mafs) exalted in his chair \\\\zf:dia gcjlatoriii] with the bahiachino, or canopy over his head, and the tlabclli for driving away the flies on each fide, one of the malters of the ceremonies went before him with fome flax tied at the end of a long cane, and one of the clerks of the chapel with a lighted torch fet fire to it ; the mailer of the ceremonies at the fame time pronouncing aloud thefc words, • Each cardinal has .i church, of which be Is faid ta be utalarc, and fo this of thi Saints Qiiiricus aud Julita gave title to cardinal Conii, Zanc- 192 ROME. Sanciijime Pater, fic tranfit gloria mundi, " Mod Holy Father, " thus palTeth away the glory of the world." This ceremony was repeated twice more. It was greatly faid by Sixtus V. on that occafion ; " but mine " fliall never pafs away, for I'll do jurtice to all the world." Nor was it lefs prophetick ; for, certainly the glories of his reign will never pals away, or be forgot, as long as hiftory continues. ''J'he pope was thus carried to the great altar : there, after confcflion for the mafs, and fome ufual prayers, he receiv'd the pall from the firll. deacon with thefe words, Accipe pallimn, fc. plenitiidlnem pontijicalis officii ad honorem, omnipotent is D E I, & glorioftffimce Virginis Marice ejus matris, & beato- riun apojlolorum Petri & Paii/i, (s? fanBcc Romance ecdejice. " Receive thou the pall, fc. the plenitude of the pontifical of- •' fice, to the honour of almighty GOD, of the mofl: glorious " Virgin Mary his mother, and of the bleffed apoftles Peter " and Paul, and of the holy Roman church." His holinefs then going up to the altar, kifs'd it, and blefs'd the incenfe in the cenfer, and incens'd the altar, and one of the cardinal- deacons incens'd him. He then went and feated himfelf in his pontifical chair, or throne, which was plac'd about a dozen yards from the altar, looking towards it, and receiv'd the car- dinals again all'adoratione, or obedienza, as they more par- ticularly call this. The cardinals kifs'd his foot and hand, and were all admitted allamplejfo, as before : the prelates kifs'd his foot and knee; the penitentiaries of S. Peter his foot only. Then after fome hymns and fuft'rages, his holinefs celebrated the mafj. When that was done, he took the gloves and ring; ' About fix- =i"J twenty fix Julio's* in a rich purfc, ofi:er'd him by cardinal ^tnceapitce. Annibale z^lhani, in the name of the chapter, pro bene can- tata mnffa, [for having chanted the mafs well,] which he gave to one of the cardinal-deacons. / ftcr thir, he was carried in the fame ftate to the loggia della beneditione, where he fate in his pontifical chair, in Jul! view of the vaft croud of fpec- tators, with which the great Piazza below v/as fili'd, where all the pomp of Rome was united, in the rich coaches and equi- pages ot the nobility. After fome hymns and prayers, one of the cardinal-deacons took the mitre off his head, and an other put on the triregnd, or triple crown, with thefe words, (as R O M E. i9j (as I was infonii'd afterwards, for he did not tluindcr it out, as cardinal Panfiiio did ihc proclamation) Recipe tiaraniy tribm coronis ornatam, & fc'tas te ejje patrem principuin & rcgiwi, rec- tor em or bis, in terra vicar ium Sahatoris nojlri Jcfu Chrtjli ; cui l.onor eji, & gloria in facula ficculoruin. A)ncn. " Receive " thou the tiara, adorned with three crowns, and know tliy- " fell" to be father of princes and of kings, ruler of the world, " upon earth vicar of our Saviour Jefus Chrill: ; to whom be " honour and glory for ever and ever. Amen." For two or three nights, upon this occafion, the city of Rome was pcrfedtly on fire with illuminations of all forts j the nobi- lity and all the people ftriving who ihould teftify moft zeal and joy on this acceffion * ; for the new-created pope was a man very agreeable to the people of Rome, as being a Roman born, brother to the duke of Poli, of a mod: ancient family; out of which they reckon twelve popes to have been, fince the family name was Conti, and four more while it was Anicia, the an- cient name of it, from which they fiy 'twas chang'd to Conti, Irom the great number of counts that were then of it, above a thoufand years ago. There was a report {^iven out by fome (I know not how well grounded), that there was a finefle ufcd by thofe of the concla- vifts who were in the intcreft of the then cardinal Conti, for the procuring him to be made pope, by declaring againlt him themklves, in order to draw in the party that was oppolite to them, to his fide : and when they found a fufiicicnt number of the others to come in to vote for him, they then Itruck in with them, and made him pope. — But, as there is no entering into the fecrets of a conclave, it is hard for thofe that arc without, to be aflured of truth in matters of fuch nature. The cardinals have each their feparate cell in the conclave, and there is all pofiihle caution ufed that no letters or notes be fent in to any of them ; for wTiich purpcfe the prelates are ap- pointed by the governor of the conclave to watch in their turns at all the feveral avenues, and take care of that matter. • The illuminations of the Cupola, and front of S. Peter's church, and the fire- works which they call girandole, on the caftle of S. Angelo, were very beautiful. C c The [94 ROME. The very windows of the conclave are made up with brick, within a very little way of the top, and that part clos'd with fome linnen cloth, which admits exceeding little either of light or air: the want of the latter often proves prejudicial to the health of their eminencies, fome of whom are of too great an age to be able to bear it; fo that many fall fick, and fome die in long conclaves. In that fhort one which was held while we were there, one of them [Pariciani] came out fo ill, that he foon died, and was buried within three days after its breaking up. Prince Chigi was at that time governor, or guardian, of the conclave ; (I don't very well remember the title:) and we were told, that office is hereditary in his family, and that the occafion of it was as follows. The brigues and diffenfions of the cardinals had once prolonged the Jede vacante for fo confi- derable a time, that there were apprehenfions the church might receive great detriment, if a pope were not foon eledled : where- upon, one of the Chigi family, who was then governor, or guardian, of the conclave, uncover'd the roof of a great part of it, and thereby letting in the foul weather upon the cardi- nals, foon forc'd their eminencies to an eledtion. As a reward for this fignal piece of fervice to the church, that office was made hereditary in his family. It is well known that Pafquin and Marforio are always bufy at the eledtion of a pope, and for diverfion to his new holinefs his friends fometimes tell him what Pafquin has faid of the matter. At this time that merry gentleman was making figures. Marforio alks him. Is be turn'd arithmetician ? Paf- quin anfwers, Fo Conti * : Per fapere quanta bifogna per arrichiare trenta nepoti. "I make Conti, or compiita- " tions, — to know how much will go to enrich thirty poor " -{-nephews." It is faid that the pope being told of it, anfwer'd, " That they had not reckon'd half, forall the decay'd nobilitvof " Rome fhould he his nepoti.'" Other pafquinades there were about the pope's lethargy. His anfwer to them (they lay) was, that " He flept before, that he might wake the better now." • The family-name of the new pope. Alfo, it fignifies accounts or computations. + For, notwithftanding the pope was of fo noble a family, he was faid to have a great nwny poor relations. This ROME. i^j This bufincfs of the conclave, and what it pioduc'd, was the grand atlair on foot at Rome when we return'd thither from Naples, fo that I was induc'd to fay fomewhat of that, before I fpeak of the city itfelf. And what indeed can I fay, but what is pretty generally known, of a place fo famous thro' fo many ages, of which fo much has been written, and which has fuch condant vKits paid to it every year from England as well as other countries ? However, that there may not be a chafm in this my account, fuch as it is, I Ihall offer what occurr'd there to my own obfervation. As to the general fituation of Rome, it is built (as is well known) upon feveral hills near one another j now niofl of them are become rather eminencies only, by means of the ruins that have raifed the ground between them : but thefe hills fland in the middle of a plain, which is low, and tho' very wide, is in the nature of a valley to the mountains, which lie at fome di- flance round, as may be plainly feen by the feveral approaches to it, and particularly that from Naples. And to the lovvnefs of this plain, and the flagnated waters that lie in fome parts of it, which have no natural outlet, and are not carried off" by proper methods, is doubtlefs owing that unwholefome air, fo much complain'd of in Rome and the Campagna * [or country] • 'tis ufually about it, efpecially in the time of the heats. called Cam. The nobleft entrance into Rome, is that thro' which we came ^ff"* ^^ ^*'' firft into it from England. After having for fome time travell'd over an old Roman way [called in the maps Via Caffla] and paffed by feveral old towers and ruins on each hand; at Ponte Molle [anciently Pons Milvius] we ftrilce in with the Via Flaminia, and pafs along that in a dircdt line, what they call two miles, having good buildings, plcafant villa's, and vineyards on each hand, till we come to that beautiful gate, the Porta Flaminia, now called del Popolo, from the church and convent of S. Ma- ria del Popolo, which you find on your left hand, immediately after you have enter'd the gate. We are now got into a handfome area, or piazza, with a noble Egyptian obelilk and a fountain in t4ie middle, and have before us two very handfome churches (which, from their uniformity, and near refemblance to each other, are called le gcniclL'y the Twin;,) and three ftreets, all in full view at once. C c 2 The 195 ROME. The middle one Is the principal ftreet of Rome, which they call the Coifo, the place where the quality take the frefco of the evening in their coaches. The obeliik in this piazza is YiJep. 49. of granite*, (as are all the reft ereded in feveral parts of Rome) a 'moil hard llone, of a fomewhat coarfe grain, all in- fcribed with hieroglyphicks : it was tirft plac'd in the Circus Maximiis, and dedicated by Augullns Caefar to the fun, as ap- pears by one of the infcrlptions on the bafis : it was lix'd where it is by Sixtus Q^ntus, and dedicated to the Crofs, with this further infcription alluding to the former: Ante facram iUhis cedem augiijlior Iceticrgue Jurgo, ciijus ex utero virginali Aug. inipsrante, fol jujlitice exortus ejl. " I rife more majeftick and " more joyful before her holy temple X> out of whofe virgin " womb the Sun of Righteoufnefs arofe, in the reign of Au- " guilus Caefar." The ftreets of Rome are many of them exad;ly ftrait, efpe- cially thofe which were regulated by Sixtus V. and, among thefe, particularly that which bears the name he was call- ed by before he was cardinal ; Strada Felice. This they call two miles in length, i. e. taking in the whole, from the French convent of Minims [Trinita del Monte] on the Pincian Mount, to the church of S. John Lateran ; though at about midway tlie view is intercepted (but very agreeably) by the church of S. Maria Maggiore, and there bending a little, it goes on from thence in a diredl line again to "the other, which is called Omnium in urbe atqiie in orbc eccle- Jiarum mater atque caput. " Of all churches, in the city " and in the world, the mother, and the head." This Strada Felice is croffed by another as ilrait as itfelf, [Strada di Porta Pia] and where they crofs, are four fountains, and tlie four corners are each of them adorn'd with the figure of a water-nymph, &c. This ftreet is terminated at one end by the Porta Pia, and at the other end by the noble view of two colollal ftatues of marble, fuppofed to be Alex- ander taming Bucephalus. The prefent middle part of the city,, about the place where was the old Campus Martius, now call'd t Alluding to the before mentioned church of S. Maria dclPopolo, Canding on ( fide of the piazza. Car ipo ROME. Campo Marzo, is built clofc enough : but fevcral of thcfc rtrcets that are extended towards the walls are adorn'd more with gardens than houfcs, towards the further end of them efpecially, where are feveral villa's fo call'd, the' within the walls. The walls arc of brick, fet thick witii towers, which, tho' confiderably decay'd by age, arc ilill for the mofl: part fo intire, as to fliew very well wliat they were at firft. Thefe walls, as the antiquaries there fay, (and we have other authorities for it) were built by the unfortunate Bclil'arius, The private houfes are many of them mean enough ; but this ia well made amends for in the palaces, which are numerous, and many of them very noble. They generally range with the flreet, (as Somerfet-Houfe in the Strar.d) without any court before them J and often a narrow llrect into the bargain, which makes them not appear fo graceful as otherwile they might do : but if they ftand not to fuch advantage as to themfelves, they arc a great ornament to the flreets in which they are plac'd ; and in the chief ones they arc pretty numerous. The fronts of them are not fo full of work as fomc of thofe at Venice ; but they have a noble plainnefs, which is truly majeflick : but their yet greater beauty is often in the court ihcyare built about, which is form'd by a portico fupported by marble pillars (many of them an- tique) and this fometimes repeated in the Itory above. What enlivens them extremely, is, the great number of antique fta- tues and baflb-relievo's, with the addition of fountains, which are either in the court, or in the view of it. The apartments within are noble, and the rooms well proportion'd : llate and grandeur they fcem chiefly to aim at, to which they are con- tent that convenience (liall fometimes give way. In thegreatcfl palace«, the fuite of rooms one withm another, with the vifto thro' the niarble door-cafes, is very magnificent. As many of them are princes, fo they diftribute their apartments accor- dingly ; into anti-chambers for waiting, chambers of audi- ence, (for they afte(5t the higbeft names) with baldacJi'mos, or canopies of flate ; and thele lead to the private apartment of the prince himfelf, i. e. one for form fake on the flate-floorj for their ufual sbode is either at the top or the bct.om of the houfe; the former being their winter, the latter their fummer- apartment. Thefe latter have an appearancepeculiarly amufing to us> '97 198 ROME. 113, who are us'd to fee little of that nature in England. They have generally arch'd roofs, painted in frefco, and adorn'd with ftatues and fountains : they are moftly v/hat we call under- ground, which makes them very cool and refrefliing in the hot weather, and their way of adorning and furnifhing them gives them a very cool look too. The windows of their palaces have not farties, to Aide up or down, but all the parts of them are made to open, by way of cafement, from bottom to top : neither do they ufe wainfcot, their rooms being gene- rally either painted in frefco, or plain plaifter-walls cover'd over with pidlurcs, or hung with tapeftry, velvet, or damafk, as in England and other places. But what looks the moft odd- ly to a ftranger, is, to fee a room hung perhaps with velvet or the richeft arras, a velvet bed perfedtly embofs'd with high- rais'd gold-embroidery, the chairs, cabinets, glafles, and all the reft of the furniture fuitable, fet out in the moft coftly man- ner ; the porphyry tables fupported by carv'd-work in various figures, richly gilt ; and after all this, a plain brick floor. For though it may be true, as ihey fay, that marble would be too cold in winter, and boards inconvenient in fummer, becaufe fubje£l to cracking or breeding of vermin, one would think they might have fome fine fort of tile, of a better fhape and confiftence too than thofe plain bricks are. Their furniture is fometimes fancied after an extraordinary manner, fome of the ornaments having been defign'd by the beft mafter?, [Carlo Maratti, and others of the firft rate] as the frames of their chairs, tables, ftands, and ornaments about their beds and elfewhere. They have indeed fometimes fo much of the grand gufto in them, or to fpeak more plainly, are foincumber'd with finery, that they are much fitter to be look'd at than us'd. It is the general cuftom to have curtains to draw over the doors j and that not only in the palaces, but in the meaner houfes too. The ufual gratuity to the fervant who fliews a palace, is a Te- » About 18 d. ftone*. The nobility there feem to have judg'd perfe<flly Enghft. ^g|j jj^ fettling thefe gratuities : ftrangers are thereby at a cer- tainty what they have to do ; and as in cafe a large gratuity were expefted, that might deter fome from making fuch frequent vifits to the palaces as they could wiHi ; fo, were the fervants order'd to take nothing at all, people could not for fhame have 5 come R O M E. come often. But, a gratuity being fix'd, and that fo moderate, makes the matter cafy to every body. The ciiurches of Rome arc many of them as jfinc, as painting, fculpturc, gilding, and ornaments of all forts of marble, can make them. Of them, fome arc called Bajiliche, as that of S. Peter, S. John Latcran, and S. Maria Maggiore within the city, and S. Paolo without it. 'Thefe and other principal churches of ancient foundation, in Rome clfewhere, have obtain'd the name of Bafilichey for that fome of them were turn- ed from palaces or courts of judicature into churches; and others were built in the fame form, with a long nave, and a half-round at the upper end, call'd TrUjuna, from the tribunals which were held in th.it part. For thefe Bafilicce were not only royal palaces in the ftridleft fenfe, but palaces of the principal nobility, and fome of them courts of juflice, where the Cen- tum viri fate. That of S. John Lateran was the palace of one Lateranus a fenator in Nero's time, who was put to death by that emperor, and his eftate confifcated. The gallantry and invincible courage of this Lateranus were fuch, as Epidtetus tiiought worthy his notice; as we learn from Arrian. The fituation of the churches eaft and weft is not at all ob- ferv'd in Rome, or in other parts of Italy, as I have already mcn- tion'd. For the (hapc, there is generally a regard had to the form of the crofs ; even in fuch where the body of the church is round, and ftands all under a cupola, there is a wing extend- ed on each hand, which makes a fide-chapel, or altar, and be- twixt thefe, another part carried on beyond the circle for the great altar. The great altar is not always quite at the end of the church, tho' for the moft part it is. In S. Peter's church- it is dircvflly under the cupola, and in fome others, efpecially the oldeft churches, it is at fome diftance from the end, with a pa- vilion over it, fupported by four pillars, according to what is faid to be the manner of the Greek churches in the eaft : for thofe Greeks that are in Italy do not always regard the ftrudure of their churches, to have them mads after the manner of their own country,, any more than they do other matters relating to them : for they are pretty much Romanized. In all the churches here and wherever elfe the Romifh religion is cxcr- cifed, there are, befidcs the great altar, fcvcral lelfcr ones car- ried. 99 R O M E. ficd on all along on each fide the church, fometlmes inclofed in chapels, fbinetimes not : fo that it is not uncommon to fee half a dozen or more mafl'es going on at once. Thefe chapels and fide-altars generally belong to particular families, and are adorned after fuch a manner, as "if their owners were endeavour- ing to fliew which (liould outdo the other in magnificence, and richnefs of ornament. This is flillfeen more, where the cha- pel or altar is dedicated to any favourite modern faint j for there care is taken to have fome reliqueof that faint preferv'd in fonie rich repofitory, with one lamp at leall continually burning by it ; fometimcs feveral, according to the credit of the faint. Over the altar there is always a piece of painting or fculpture, generally encompafs'd with ornaments or archi- tedlure. The whole entablature is of marble, inlaid very often in the frieze, with lapis lazuli, and other beautiful Itones, fupported by pillars of oriental alabafter, giallo antiquo, por- phyry, 'verd antique, and forty other forts, which lean neither remember, nor were it fit to trouble the reader with enu- merating. The old churches, built in the time of Conftantine, or foon after, tho' not extraordinary for the rert: of their architedlure, have fome of the hobleft and fineft pillars that can be feen; which were taken from the heathen temples, &c. particularly the church of S. Agnes, and S. Lorenzo without the walls, the church of S. Maria Traftevere, and that of the Carthufians, which ftands within the ruins of Dioclelian's baths, and was built with part of its materials. Among the refl of which, there are four of the vaftefl granite pillars that are in Rome. The modern churches, and thofe efpecially which are dedi-. cated to modern faints, are adorn'd moft. That of S. Catharine of Siena is a perfedl cabinet for neatnefs : nothing is to be feen in it, but carv'd-work and ftucco gilt, marble and painting. They have apiece of good hufbandry, whereby they make a little marble go a great way, only by incruflation, as they call it, or cementing thin flakes of it upon the wall they would cover. The fame method was in ufe among the ancients, as we have feen in fome old ruins. They cut it fometimes to not above a quarter of an inch thicknefs, and difpofe the veins fo, as to anfwcr one another, as the joiners here do in their cabinets and R O M E. and other works of wallnut-tree, which they call finceriiig. Thus, tho' there be a great deal of labour in the workmanlhip, a final! quantity (comparatively) fprcads over a whole church ; and has the fame effedl to the eye, as if the wall were all of i'olid marble. And it is neceHary they fliould hufband it thus in their fineft works, where they employ fuch forts of marble as are not the growth of Italy, and are fcarce (if at all) now to be had, except in the ruins of old temples, palaces, baths, fe- pulchres, and other antique monuments; for tlie adorning oi which, Egypt and India were ranfack'd, while the Romans were mallt-rs of the world. Another art they have, of imi- tating marble fo, that the difference is hardly to be perceived. It is done with what they call fcaglioh, which is not unlike what I have feen here in England called fpar, and by Ibme, nwter 7tietailoriim, which is found in the lead-mines. With this material, burnt and powder'd, and made into a parte or plaifter, and fo mixt up with proper colours, they imitate mar- ble to a great nicety ; and with this mixture, in feveral vari- ations, fome of the churches are incrufied, and make much the fame appearance as if they vvcie incrulled with real marble. I fuppcfe our imitators of marble tables in England ufc the like materials. I have mentioned fomewhat elfewhere of the tabellce votiva [votive pictures.] With thefe the churches at Rome do very much abound. The walls of fome chapels are intirely cover'd with them, from top to bottom. Thefe generally are chapels dedicated to fuch faint as happened to be call'd upon together with the Blelled Virgin in the diilrefs from which the votaries were deliver'd, whether of licknef:;, fire, fliipwreck, airault, overturn of a coach, or any other accident. The Blefied V^irgin is plac'd in the clouds, and at fome diftance from her, the other tutelar faint is added. Below, is reprcfented the cir- cumliance the party was in ; and the reprefentation is generally as difmal as the dififter. At the bottom is added P. G. R. per gratia ricrcuta [" for mercy receiv'd."] Where, in cafe of a bodily diforder, any particular part was affedted, the figure of that part is often fix'd up in filver, ivory, or mother of pearl. This they certainly learnt from the ancient heathens, whofe manner it was to dedicate ex voto in their temples, legs, D d arms. 202 R O M E. arms, and other parts, in ftone, upon like occafions. Several jof thefe we hnve feen in repofitories ot antiMiities ; particularly a foot I remember, and part of a leg, with a fnake twifted about the ancle, in the numerous coHedlion of father Bonanni, a learned Jefuit at Rome. This might either have been offer- ed upon deliverance from fuch a difafter as the iwhim feems to reprefent, or might be taken fimply as a vow to TEfculapius, whofe fymbol was a ferpent, as it was likewife of Hygieia. And that they us'd to hang up votive pidures too in their tem- ples, we find by TibuUus : Nimc den, nunc fiiccurre m'lh'i, nam poffe mederi Pitia docet ternplis midta tabella tuts. L. i. el. 3. Help, goddefs, help me, for thy pow'r to heal The painted vows, hung round thy temple, tell. Some paffages in Juvenal and Perfius do fully prove the fame. I wifli the niodern devotees would fpare one thing in their churches, which their miftaken zeal puts there for ornament, I mean a plate of filver (or fometimes perhaps bafer metal), which we fee often fix'd upon the pidture about the head of the BlefTcd Virgin, intended for a glory, but looks jull like a horfe- flioe : fometimes the plate is in the form of a crown, and it is al- ways attended with another of the fame fort, but fmaller, about the head of the Chrift. Another way of drefling up theMadonna, much of the fame tafte, but I think rather more rarely ufed, is flicking a huge amber necklace upon the pidVure, acrofs the neck ; and covering the painted drapery with a real one of fome rich fluff, fpread over like an apron. 'Tis well when this zeal lights upon a bad pidture; as (to fpeak truth) it generally does ; but, to my great vexation, I have fometimes Icen a good one thus mauled and difguifed. They have upon fome of the ftatues of their faint?, a circular plate, fluck horizontally above their head, which has not fo ill an effed. This they have borrow'd from the ancients, who us'd to fix fuch plates on the top of their idols to prevent birds from lighting on, or from fouling them; but with the moderns, it is intended for a glory 3 as particularly that ROME. that upon a fine bud of our Saviour, done by Michael Angclo, in v.liite marble j which is at the church of 6. Agnes without i^e walls. They have no pews in their churches, and 'tis a I eat advaxitagc to the proipecl within them, that they have not : for by this means, at the entrance, you have one clear uninterrupted view quite to the farther end. The people kneel upcn tlie bare marble ; only ladies of the firft quality, and am- l all'adors ladies, have cuHiions. They feldom have preaching on a Sunday, except it be fume extraordinary fcftival. Lent is the great time lor that per- formance 3 and then they fill the middle of the church with benches, and ftretch a canopy of canvas quite over preacher and people, a little higher than the pulpit, partly for warmth, and partly to afllll: the voice of the preacher, niorc than what the canopy of the pulpit alone could do. Their pulpits arc fomc of them perfciil; galleries, or indeed l.i.ges; on which many of them adt their parts extremely well, nd pcrfuade their audience that they are in very good earnefl: ..eir.klves. Their aftion is what we fhould be apt to call uverdone, but 'tis what the people there arc us'd to, and expedt ; end the preachers find their account in it. They'll walk ibme- times from one end of the pulpit to the other, in much com- motion, their eyes perfcdly fparkling, and tears llalhing in them, to produce the fame effect in their audience, as well knowing Ilurace's rule ; — — y? vis we fierc, doJoidum ejl Vrimum ipfi tibi. — — — — • He only makes me fad who fliews the way, And firlt is fad himfelf. Roscommon. The lowncfs of the parapet, or defl<.-part of the pulpit, fliews their aition to the more advantage : they'll fometimes lean over, flrip their fieeve up to the elbow, and fliake their fift at the people j fometimes fnatch a little crucifix, which is al- ways ready within reach, and fliake that at them, and make ap- peals to it, and exportulations between it and the people. They preach all without book; but I have fometimes iztn a prompter, D d 2 with 504 R O M E. S. P E T E R's. with the notes behind the preacher. The men don't feem near fo much to regard their being uncover'd in the churches as we do here, except it be while a mafs is celebrating, to which they pay the profoundeft reverence. At fermons we frequently fee them cover'd, as the preacher always is, with his beretta [cap] unlefs when his aflion occafionally requires his taking it off. They allow Grangers more liberty in their churches at Rome, and, indeed, all over Italy, than in Flanders, and other Roman- catholic countries.. They won't difcourage thofe whofe chief bufinefs in their country, generally fpeaking, is curiofity, which they well know brings a good deal of money among them. Befide«, that the Englidi, who they are fenfihle fpend more freely than any other people, being for the moft part what they call Hereticks, fliould not by any incivilities be fowr'd into a further diflike of their religion. At the exaltation of the hoft, when they are all upon their knees, many of them thumping their breafts and kifllng the ground, and fo remaining in that loweft inclination, till the exaltation is over, 'tis fufficient for flrangers to incline their bodies a little, without diredlly kneel- ing down J and if they omit even that, they lland indeed the gaze of the congregation, as diftinguifhing themfelves for He- reticks, but receive no perfonal affront. They will perhaps have it faid of them, No7i fono Chrijiiani, [They are not Chri- ftians ;] for they account none to be fuch, but thofe that are direftly of their ov/n communion. S.Peter's. ^^ what I have faid in general of the churches in Rome, I ought to add fomewhat more particular ; but am perfedliy at a lofs where to begin, or how to avoid being too long upon fo copious a fubjeft. S. Peter's alone has had volumes written upon it in folio. By the prints of that noble temple, frequent amrmg us, it is very well feen after what manner it is built : and that, for its general form, our S. Paul's agrees pretty much with it. It were to be wifli'd th^Jt our's had fuch an approach as that has, than wliich nothing can be more grand or magnificent. As the church ftands near the place where was once the cirque of Nero, fo fome will have it that the obelii'k, now in the middle of the circular theatre which is form'd by that ftately colonnade, is ereded in the fame place where it flood in Nero's ROME. S. P E T E R's. Nero's time ; but that cannot be ; for, befides that (if the maps of old Rome are true) the very topography contradids it, it is likewife exprefly faid in one of the infcripiions, that it is ■ ■ priori fede (ivulfus — " remov'd from its former fite." This obchfk is faid to have been the firft that was brought from Egypt to Rome by the order of Julius Cjefar : itwasfiift plac'd in tlie Circus Maximus, and dedicated (as appears by one of the in- fcriptions) to Auguftus and Tiberius Ca;fars ; afterwards remov'd by Nero to his circus on the Vatican mount. It was plac'd where it is by order of Sixtus Quotas, under the direction of the cavalier Fontana. It is fupportcd by four lions of copper, couching on the four coiners of the pedeftal, or bafis, which bears them. The two great fountains, in the fame area, are a noble and moft plcafant ornament, and do fenlibly refrcfli the air of the place in the hot weather. The baluftrade over the colonnade is fiU'd quite round with ftatues, many of them very good : ftatues are likewife con- tinued over the portico, which, going up from the colonnade in a ftrait line on each hand, forms a fquare court immediately before the afcent into the church. There is one objedlion I think may be made to the colonnade; that it feems crouded with thofe vafl: pillars which fland fo thick : but feme give this- reafon for its having been built fo : that it was intended to fup- port another building which was to have gone round above, and Ihould have been for the conclave. The church i'f.-lf was built by feveral popes, and the form of it changed by leveral architcds. Bramante made the firll defign ; his model is now in the Vatican palace; it is io large that we went into feveral parts of it. After his death, the defign was alter'd by Raphael Urbin, Sangallo, and others : it was brought to the form of the Greek crofs by Alich. Angelo, prolong'd afterwards to the form of the Latin crofs by the cavalier Fontana, Carlo Maderni, and others, who ftill con- tinued the order of Mich. Angelo. The Facade, and noble portico, which we crof^ immediately before we enter the churchy was made by Carlo Maderna. Nothing cm be more beauti- ful of the kind than this portico; 'tis extended along the whole breadth of the church in the manner of a gallery. At each e.ad 2o6 R O M E. S. P E T E R's. end of it there is a loggietta, adorn'd, as the portico itfelf is, with acuriousmarblepavement, andcielingof lliucco gilt. The Colon- na-gallery, with its lobbies, doth io far refemble this portico, with its loggietta's, that one may imagine the architedl of that to have taken his hint from this. In a further fpace, beyond the loggietta's, are two ftatues on horfeback, larger than the life. That at one end was done by cavalier Bernini, in white marble: 'tis Conftantine the Great looking up towards a crofs, which is forin'd in bas-relief upon the Tide of the portico, accompanied with the famous inlcription, lu hoc Jigno "olncei. *' In this " fign thou fhalt overcome." The other was then only in ftucco, in order to be executed in marble by a young Florentine, [Au- guftino] who, by what we faw in the ftucco, gave great profpedl of a noble performance. It reprefents Charles the Great. I Hiould have been counted by the Romans as great a heretick in architedure as in religion, had I there fpoke all I thought of the front of that admirable fabrick. The parts are certainly very beautiful, grandandnoble, the pilhrs being nine foot in diameter; but the whole is terminated by a flrait line at top, which (^with- out any prejudice in favour of my own country) I cannot think has fo good an effcdl as the agreeable variety, which is given by the turrets at each end, and the pediment riling in the middle, of the front of S. Paul's. The prints indeed give us a prof- pe(ft of two fide cupola's (together with the great one in the middle) which appear in the draught to break the line; but, in the fabrick itfelf, are not feen at all as you approach it, being in reality caft back at a good diliance from the end of it, fo that the fight of them is intercepted, and quite hid from the eye, by the afore- mention'd flrait line of the top of the portico, which terminates the whole view, without any other break, than what the ftatues upon it give. Bernini feem'd of opinion, that fomething was wanting, and would have eredled a tower at each corner, of which my lord Parker has the defign : but {o heavy lie defign'd it, and (I think) had begun to make it, that 'twas thought it would have ruin'd the portico ; and fome rtick not to lily, that that was his intent out of tr^vy to the former architect; io he was oblig'd to defifl; and fome of the pillars intended for that, v/ere employed in the porticoes of the two twill-churches in the Piazza del Popolo. They have a flory. R O M E. S. P E T E R'?. 207 a Aory, that with fome of his fiiperftrudures he did occafio.-i a c rack in the cupola ; which hiinfelf, by another ftroke of his envy, was the accidental occalion of having difcovcr'd to the pope, [Innocent X.] who till that time was ignorant of it. The itory I heard is thus : at the four angles, under the great cu- poh, are the ftatues of four funts, made by as many fcveral Iciilptors. Bernini made one ; another is that of S. Veronica, with the handkerchief, on which the form of our Savrour's countenance was faid to have been imprinted : this .was made by Francefco Mochi j the iiandkerchief and drapery arc very light, and leem as if moved by the air. When the ftatues were fct up, the pope came to fee them, and feveral fculptors along with him : when they came to that of S. Veronica, Bernini had a mind to carp a little, and looking at the drapery, aHc'd, whence comes all this wind ? Mochi furpriz'd him with a fud- den anfwer, " From the crack you made in the cupola." Bernini, ftruck with this unexpected reply, and fearing the ccn- fdquences of the difcovery, ftaid not to take leave, but im.me- diately tied, and got into France, where he continued for fome time ; till at laft he found means, thro' Donna Olympia, fifter- in-law, and great favourite of his holinefs, to make his peace. He made her his friend, by prefenting her with a model in fil- ver of the fine fountain which he propos'd to make, and at his return did execute, in the Piazza Navona. I fliall hereafter take more particular notice of this fountain. The reader will pardon this digrelTion :' I was infenfibly led into it. The upper end of this church ftands to the wert. There is no feparation of that part for a choir, as is in S. Paul's, and otlier cathedrals with us. A fidc-chapel is appropriated to that pur- pofe there ; lb that at firft entrance there is a Ipicious open view continued quite to the further end of the church ; where, aloft, againft the wall, is plac'd the chair of S; Peter, fupported by the four dodtors of the Latin church *, and a glory above, with • s /.-'-. igels, &;c. all of copper, a moil collly and noble ornament. ^ ;.it the real chair of S. Peier they pretend is within that which i; , u fee. 1 he pavilion of the great altar, which ftands under the L ipol.i, is in my mind the iinefl ornament in the whole ciu'.rcli ; ih:^re is fomething in it fo uncommon, and at once 6 fo ROME. S.PETER'S. fj magnificent. It is the work of Bernini : 'tis fupported by iour wreath'd pillars of Corinthian brafs, which was taken by Urban VIII. from off ths portico of the Pantlieon ; they are adorned with feftoons and foliage of the fame metal, difpcs'd in a mod agreeable manner. There are little angels of a fine- defign, playing among the vines, and fome bees (in allufion to the Barberini arms) are {ten upon the leaves about them. Thefe pillars are by much the moft finely adorn 'd of any I ever faw. Whether the hint might be taken from Raphael's car- tone of the beautiful gate of the temple, I know not ; but they put me much in mind of the pillars in that. They fay that under this altar are depofited half the bodies of S. Peter and S. Paul, and that the other half, of them is elfe- where ; either at the old Bafdica of S. Paul without the city, or that of S. John Lateran ; I am not fure which. Above a liundred lamps are continually burning before this depofitum, "ivhich is encompafs'd with a marble baluftrade. Not far from this altar is an image in copper of S. Peter fitting, in the aflion of blefling; his right foot is extended, and is confidera- bly worn by people's kiffing it, and rubbing beads againfl it. On the feaft-day of that faint, we faw this image drefs'd out in fontificalibus, with a canopy of ftate over head, and lamps burning before it : the people inceflantly coming in fhoals to kifs the foot, rubbing their beads, and fome their foreheads on it. Some will have this image to have been an old one of Jupiter, turn'd into a S. Peter, led perhaps to that guefs, by fotne little refemblance which they might find between the countenance of this, and feme which have been done to repre- fent Jupiter. I know they have that trick fometimes of changing an antique idoJ into a modern one : (for I queftion much whether the ancient images were more idols, than fome of the prefent ones are :) but this i am inclined to believe was origi- jially intended for what it is ; for I take it to be a caft from a marble one, which, with feveral others that were formerly or- naments of the old Bafilica, ferves now to adorn thofe grotta's or chapels under the new one. That llatue, they fay, was made by order of Conttantine the Great, who built the old church ; and it has enough of the coarfe taile of thofe ti.mes. The R O xM E. S. P E T E R's, 2oy Tlie great cupola is all wrought in Mofaic, as are the four angles immediately under it. Within the cupola itJelf are the twelve apollles in fcvcral compartiments, which fill the firft great circle that goes round the cupola: above them, angels in like manner J and at the top ot a lantern, which rifes above the cupola, is reprefented the Pudrc Etcrno^ as an old man with liis hands extended, perform'd in Molaic too, after a very grand dcfign of Annibale Caracci. In the four angles under, are re- prcf:-r,ted the four evangelifls, of a great and noble d<i(r^vi. Some of the fide-cupola's are alfo wrought in Mofaic, after fine dcfigns of Pietro da Cortona, and others. They are going on with the rert. We went up into one, where they were performing the Molaic, after the defign of Carlo Maratti. TJie cartone upon which the defign was painted, was (as I re- member) about the height of eight or nine foot, and the breadth more. Jt was plac'd at fome diflance behind the performer, parallel to the wall upon which it was to be copied in Mofaic. Mofaic, how The manner whereof is thus. The artift fits upon a bench, with P"f°f™'''' bits of marble, and of faiflitious flones, feemingly of a glafly fubllance, of feveral coJours, lying on his right hand. The bits of il:one are mofi; of them fquare, and larger or fmaller, according to the dillance at which the work is to be viewed. They are of all colours, in the feveral degradations of them, from the lightell: to the darkeft, and lie fortcd in feveral boxes, like thofe for the letters in a printing-houfe. On his left hand lie the feveral tools necefiary for his work ; and, among the refl-, there is fix'd upon the bench a piece of iron, with an edge on the upper fide, like the end of a chizcl, with the ecige upward, on which, with a hammer, he forms the bits, when there is oc- cafion, to a proper fliape or fize, as the work requires. In the morning he Ipreads upon the wall a layer of plailter or cement of fuch breadth as can be covcr'd with work in a day: and then, being feated upon his bench, and turning back from time to time to look upon the pidure, choofes out bits of fui table colours, and fticks them in the cement, and with them forms the like colours as he fees in the pidture he copies. The ce- ment, in which the bits of ftone are rtuck, is made of marble, nnd Tiburtine fl:one, pounded to powder, together with lime, and wcrk'd up with oil. As we went up we obferved fome E e mortars, ROME. S. P E T E R's. mortar?, where the pilgrims work out their penances, in pound- ing marble to make cement for the Molaic. So'that if the church was erected by the piety, 'tis in feme meafure adorned by the fms of the people. A great part of this church is already incrufted with marble, and the reft is to be fo : they are daily adding to its ornaments; tho'it is at prefent without doubt the fineft temple in the world. 'Twere endlefs to enter into par- ticulars of the ftatues, paintings, Mofaics, and baffo-relievo's, which every part of it abounds with, together with the noble fepulchral monuments of feveral popes, and that of Chriftina queen of Sweden, all adorn'd with curious fculpture. The body of that queen is depofited within a plain tomb in a grotta under the church, though her monument be above. Every time one goes thither, frefli beauties prefent themfelves ; and the entertainment you find there is fo far from giving fatiety, that the pleafure flill increafes, upon every view of that noble pile. The ornaments are fo many, and fo curious, they flrike you with fuch amazement at frrfl entrance, and the eye is fo call'd off from one beauty to another, that 'tis fome time be- fore you can fix upon any in particular. One pretty odd thing is obfervable among the baffo-relievo's on the brazen gates, at the entrance. There are fome figures of heathen ftory intermix'd with the foliage ; Ganymede and the eagle, Jupiter and Leda, &c. Whether they were taken from fome heathen temple, I know not; but certainly they had been more fuitable there. The illumination on the outfide of this church on the eve of S. Peter, is indeed a glorious fight ; they place the lights in fuch a manner, all along the feveral members of the architec- ture, on the outfide, and make them fo to conform with them, that the whole has (efpecially at fome diflance) the appear- ance of a perfect temple of fire. In the fubterraneous church are feveral beautiful chapels finely adorn'd with marble, &c. The whole is low, and has not fo fpacious a look as that under S, Paul's, London. They made us take notice of an inlcription in a pafTage be- low, which leads to the grotto-chapels. Hue midieribus ingrcdi non licet, niji unico die Lunce pofl Pen-' tecojien, quo vicijjim viri ingredi prohibcntnr. ^li fecusfaxint, anathema funto. *' Into R O i\I E. P A N T H E O N. 211 " Into this place women are not allow'd to enter, cx'ccpt •' only on Monday in Whitfun-week ; on which day, men in •' thjir turn are forbid to go in. — Whoever fhall do contrary, " let them be anathema." Here arc fixM up in tiie walls, and other place?, feveral orna- ments of the old church, Mofuics, baflb-relievo's, old ftatues, 6cc. the real tombs of popes, and other great perfons, whofe honorary ones are above. There are likcwifc many modern ornaments of diverfe forts. Among others of lefs note, we here obferved four of the fineft pieces of Mofaic that I think I ever faw : they are after dcfigns of Andrea Sacthi, who was mafter to Carlo Maratti, The fubjedts are, Chrift carrying the crofs, S. Andrew kneeling before the crofs he v.'as going to be crucified on, the Death of S. Longinus, and the Inventlo Crucis, [the finding the crofs.] Added to the noblenefs of the defign, the colouring in thcfe is the melloweft and moft harmonious of any I have feen, in that fort of work. Thefe adorn four cha- pels in the fubterraneous church. Above, is the Bark of Gi- otto (fo call'd frcm its being perforrn'd after his defign), a piece of Mofaic, remarkable for its antiquity, being near four luindred years old; nor does it want intrinhck merit ; efpeci- ally in the figures, which are rather of a better defign thaa the vefiel is. The people there find a myftery in this flufluat- ing veffcl, that 'tis an emblem of the church, tofs'd and fliock'd with the waves of perfecution, but not funk by them. This was one of the ornaments of the old Bafilica, but is now fix'd aloft within the new portico, juft facing you as you come out of the church. As S. Peter's is inconteftably the noblefl: piece of modern PintDeoa, architecture in Italy, fo the Pantheon mufi: as certainly be al- low'd to be the fineft and moft pcrfcdl remain of tr.e antique; tho' it has undergone fome alterations fince its firfl building. The portico at the entrance, fupported by fixteen granite pil- lars of near five foot diameter, befides pilaflers, of the Corin- thian order, each of one piece, makes a moft magnificent ap- pearance. Upon the frieze, in the front, is an infcription ia very large capitals, fliewing by whom it was built : E e 2 M. ROME. PANTHEON. M. AGRIPPA L.F. CONSUL TERTIUM FECIT. '* Marcus Agrinpa, the ion of Lucius, built it, when conful " the third lime." And in two large niches, on each fide the entrance into the temple, are laid to have been two coloflljl ftatues, one of the fame Agrippa, the other of Auguftus Caefar, his father in-law. The Corinthian brafs, with which this portico was cover'd, was taken away by * pope Urban VIII. to make the pillars at S. Peter's above-mention'd, and a cannon which is kept in the caftle of S. Angeloj as that which cover'd the roof of the temple itfelf had been before by one of the emperors, and car- ried to Conftantinople. The round figure of the temple has given it the common name it now goes by, the Rotonda. There was formerly (they fay) an afcent of nine fteps to the entrance of the por- tico from without, but you rather defcend to it now. The fame has happen'd to moft of the old buildings, by the accefs of earth, (through the concurrence of feveral accidents) which has rals'd moft of the ground of New Rome confiderably higher than that of the Old j which is evidently feen by Tra- jan's pillar, the amphitheatre, the arches of Conftantine, and Septimius Severus ; particularly the laft, where the earth may have been rais'd more than ordinary by the ruins of the old Capitol; which did (land, as the new Capitol likewife now does, upon the hill jull above this arch. But Clement XL remov'd fome of the earth in the piazza before the Pantheon, and thereby brought again to view fome of the fteps of the portico. The cal'e or frame [lo Jlip'ito as they call it] for the brazen gate which leads out ot the portico into the temple, is, as they affirm, all of one intire piece of marble : and by the ftridlcit obfervation I could make of it from the ground, it does appear to have been fo, before the accidental crack, we fee, was made in one part of it. It is about twenty-four foot wide, and muil be at leaft twice fo much in height. There are no windows in the temple ; all the light comes in at a • Thfy tell you ftiil in Rome what was then faid upon the occafion, Barbarhufaciunt tarbara [the Barbari:;! do barbarous things.] But fure whoever fees the pavilion in S. Peter's, will hardly wilh the metal in its old place ag^iiii, circular R O M E. P A N T II E O N. 213 circu'ar cpening in the croivn of the vault, which has a t\i\<: e iert, and gives an awful appearance. There rmy be ihinc inconvenience from this op-ninw in foul weather, hut not much : !or the altars arc all round the fides which are under cover. It was anciently dedicated to Jupiter and all the Gods, as it is now to S. Mary and all t'te v^aint.':; Omniiui Ji-uis for fo is underllood the prefer.: dedication oi i(, Saiuuv Maria '^'"" a.l Mar tyres ; and their llut'ies do in part fupply the place .of the old heathtn deiries, which went round tiie temple, of which It is laid that the Venus de Medicis was one; arid that in one of her cars was hung a peatl of Cleopatra'?, of im- nienfe value, the fellow to that !lie diHblv'd and drank. The floor is of maibles of feveral forts. Atnorig the l.'j£"e circular pieces of porphyry, that which is in the Center is perforated, to let off the wet tliat fulls. The great vault of the roof is divided into qaadrangular compartitTients, hollowed j the ribs (cr mouldings) left betv/een them, all terminating upoa- a rim whiLJi gees round the central opening at top. Below, ihe compafs round is divided into tight principal parts, reckoning the gate at the entrance for one. Oppofite to that is aTribuna for the great altar: this, as the other fix prin- cipal altars, are as fo many chapels, going beyond the gene- ral circle; ; the entrance into each is adorn'd with two noble pillars, and as many pilafters of gicillo antico, Corinthian, fluted, the capitals and bafes of white marble. Thefe fup- port the great entablature, that goes round. Above that, there is a plain wall ; i. e, without any projeding ornaments, which they call the /rtw^z/rro * of the building, from its refemhlance • Djum.. to the body of a drum.. But in. the marble incrurtation of this, there are the reprefentations of pillars and cf other or- naments of architedure inlaid ; and this inlaid incruRation they told us is antique as well as the reft. From the top of this Tamburro, fprings the main vault already mention'd ; which makes the upper half of the temple, as the pillars with their entablature, and the Tamburro, do the lower half : the height of the vault being exaiftly equal ro the height of the upright below it. Between each of the chapels or altars bcfore-men- tion'd, whfth go beyond the circle, are fo many lefier alt.ir? within the circle, each adoin'd with pillars, entablature anu. 6 ixon^- 2,4- ROME. PANTHEON. frontlfplece, of feveral forts of marble, porphyry, ginlh anlico, 6cc. The flat parts are alfo all incrufted with mar- bles. Some of the iiicruftations within the chapels are gone, but are intended to be reftor'd. The great altar is not yet made ; the model now ftands without the Tribuna : perhaps the altar itfelf is to fland io, after the manner of the Bjfiliche. Thcfe fine pillars, and the other marbles were clean'd by order of Clement XI. and arc, I think, as fine a fight as can be fcen, I find in Defgodetz's deR-ription of this temple, an account of feveral meafures taken by him of the diameter of the floor, to find whether it is exaftly alike each way; there is the difference of an inch and fome odd parts of an inch, in his feveral meafures; but his medium is 133 feet and about two inches, not going beyond the great circle of the floor, into any of the further chapels. Some of the niches remain yet unfurnifh'd with fl:atues ; having at prefent only models of fuch as are to be put there. Here lie buried thofe two great mafl;ers, Raphael Urbin, and Annibale Caracci, and have each their bufl: of white marble on their monument. Under the profe epitaph of each is a diftich. That celebrated one under Raphael's is thus ; lUe hie eft Raphael, timult qiiofo/pke vinci . . Reriim magna parens., & moricnte mori. Here Raphael lies, Nature's great rival late. In life his art fbe fear'd, in death his fate. You'd expofe your judgment very much to cenfure, fhould you advance any thing at Rome in diminution of the juftnefs of thought in this epigram. 'Twas made by cardinal Bembo. The other is too mean to have any defender; but, out of refpecT; to the fubjedl, I tranfcrib'd it; and the tranflatioa ■ought to match the original. Arte mea vivit Natura, & vivit in arte Mens decus & nomen, cat era mortis eriint. By my art Nature lives, and in the fame fTho' the rt.ll: die) my genius, honour, nnme. In ROME. S. J O H N L A T E R A N. 215 In the middle of the piazza, jiift facing the portico, is a handfome fountain, adorn'd by Clement XI. with an obeliflc fppported by four dolphins of white marble : as there is a little further, in the piazza before the Minerva another obe- lilk fet on the back of an elephant, a noble performance of BL-rnini. Thefc obclilks are likewife Egyptian, but of a far Icfs fize than thofe before-mention'd. Tho' there are remains of fome of the old temples which fliew them to have been of the oblong figure, yet the greateft. number, by what appears of them at this day, feem to have been round : as the temple of Minerva Medica, VeAa, For- tuna, 6cc. here, and thofe of Venus, Diana, Neptune, and others about, Naples. But the Rotonda I have been fpeaking of, feems a good deal larger than moll of them. This being {o eminent a remain of aniquity, I have been the more par- ticular in my account of it, as it appears at prefent j in what fliall be faid of others, it may be fullicient to fet down only what feem'd mod remarkable in them. The Bjfilica ot S. John Lateran is very ancient; and iscall'd S. John La. (as I before obfcrv'd) the " Mother and Chief of all Churches ^'■""• " in the world." It takes its name from the above-named Plautius Lateranus, who having been accus'd of forming a con- fpiracy agninrt: Nero, upon the difcovery, his noble palace was confilcated by that emperor; and was afterwards by Conftan- tine the Great turn'd into a Chrillian church. Tho' it has fince that time undergone much alteration, there is now to be (een on one fide a confiderable remain of the ancient palace; large pillars with their entablature, all of p ^phyry. The architrave of this entablature fccm'd to be larger, in propor- tion to the frieze, than what is agreeable to the rules ufually given : but, without criticifing on that matter, if the rell of the fabrick was once fuitable, in architedture and materials, to wh.u we ftill fee of it, it mull: have been a moft noble pile. They fhew'd us, in the facrifly of the church, the remains of fome appurtenances to the old palace, which were found in the ruins of it: they were pieces of conduit-pipes for wa- ter, on which were infcrib'd fome of the family-names ; on one was SEXTI LATERAN I, on another was C R O V A T I L A T E R A N I, in charaders legible enough; . cnly>. 2i6 ROME. $. J H N L A T E R A N. only, the initial letter in CROVATI feem'd fomewhat doubtful; nor do I remember that word, orOROVATI (which poffibly it might have been), in any other infcriptior. The nave ot the church is large, and finely adorn'd : the twelve apoftles, twice as large as the life, in white marble,' have a moft magnificent appearance: they are modern per- formances, i. e. of the prefent age, but by the beft mafters in it, asMonf. le Grot, Camillo Rolconi, &c. and feme of them may juflly be called very fine. They ftand in fpacious niches, adorn'd on each fide with pillars of verd antique ; which were defign'd by the cavalier Boromini, who in fome of his works was a little particular in his fancy, but in the main a great mafier. Above thcfe fratues are balTo relievo's, -fix out of the Old Tefiament, and as many on the oppofite fide out of the New, by way of type and antitype. Adam chas'd out of Paradile. The Deluge. Ifiiac going to be facrific'd. Jofeph fold. The pafiage of the Red Sea. Tona coming out of the ■) Whale's belly. i Chrill: cruclfy'd. Chrift baptifed. Clirift carrying the crofs. Chrift betray'd. Chrift in t\i& Liinbiis Pafriir^. Ch rift's refurredlioHi Above thefe, are a§ rnarly prophets, painted by the mofl' eminent mafteis of thefe times, Sebaftian Concha and others. Tl-ie great brazen gates at the principal entrance, they fay were taken from the temple of Saturn in the Campo Vaccino; The Tribuna at the upper end is wrought in Mofaic, between four and five hundred years old. Oneoftlicfe I'l this church they ihew Aaron's rod which budded, and rods, i'' not that of Mofes wherewith he divided the Red Sea : and other relicks, equally' authen.tick, relating to perfons or ftories in the New Teftament. There are many large, and fome good paintings in the church 3 and in the facrilly is a fine Annunciation in oil, by Mich. Ar^gelo; and a Crucifixion by the fame mafter, faid to be that of which they tell the famous ftory ; but there are fe- veral others of w'aith they fay the fame, which 1 have before taken notice of. In both, IS curi- ouflv inlaid xviih ivory. ROME. S. J O H N L A T E R A N. 217 In a room within the facrifty is a cartonc of Raphael In black chalk, a Madonna and Chrift, and S. John. In a cloifter adjoining they flicw'd iis pope Joan's chair, or one, which, according to the old flory, pope Joan gave oc- cafion for. 'Tis a pierc'd chair of rofj'o antico (not porphyry as fome call it), the pierc'd part is in this form Cp. ; there is another hard by of the fame fort ; and our antiquary aflur'd us they were no other than old chairs belonging to Caracalla's baths, of which there were 600 in number ; and that we Pro- teltants took occafion to make that ftory from an old wooden chair, which is near the other, where he Did the new popes are now feated, when they come to take pollclTion of S. John Lateran, foon after their eledlion. A little further he fliew'd us a porphyry pillar, on which they fay the cock perch'd, by whofe crowing S. Peter was put in mind of his having denied his mafter. There is a brafs cock on the top of it; and he told us the common people do believe, that that is the very fame individual cock, turn'd into brafs. Beyond that, they fhew a porphyry ftone, on which the foldiers caft lots for our Saviour's garment. Near thefe was a perfedl tree of a crofs carried by a pilgrim ex voto, or for penance, from Bohemia to Rome, the year be- fore we faw it there : I believe I faw the fame crofs, and him who drag'd it thither, upon the road in Lombardy. See page 29. I here is an altar of marble, on which 'tis faid an unbeliev- ing pried prefuming to confecrate the hoft, the wafer dipt from betwen his fingers, forc'd its way thro' the marble table, and ftuck to one of the little pillars underneath, and there left its impreflion in the colour of blood. At a corner of the fame cloifter they fliew the porphyry fepulchre of S. Helena ; a very large one, with a cover like that of S. Conftantia in the temple of Bacchus. It has balTo relievo's on it, men on horfeback, and other ornaments. Before the ufual [though not principal] entrance into this church, ftands the higheft obeliflc in Rome, all infcrib'd with hieroglyphicks, which are faid (but with what certainty I know not) to lignify the praifes of king Ramefes. It was confecrated Ff to 2i8 ROME. S C A L A S A N T A. to the fun in Egypt, and brought to Rome from Alexandria, where it had lain fome time, by Conftantine the Great, Tre^ centoriim reniigiim impofitus ttavi miranda "cajlitatis : " Upon a " veffel of a wonderful vaft fize, with three hundred oars." It was then plac'd in the Circus Maximus, out of whofe ruins it was dug in feveral pieces, was join'd together, and fet up where it is by the cavalier Fontana, at the command of Sixtus Quintus, to whom modern Rome owes a great (hare of its glory. Near adjoining is the baptiftery of Conftantine, antique, be- ing the place where they lay that emperor was baptiz'd by S. Sylvefter : it was part of the old Lateran palace j 'tis now finely adorn'd with paintings, which are chiefly the ftory of Conftan- tine: two by Carlo Marat in frefcoj others above, within the cupola which is over the font, by his mafter Andrea Sacchi, in oil; fome by the cavalier Camallei, and other hands, finely perform'd. Befides the ufual fubjed:s, as the apparition of the crofs, the battle and triumph, &c. there is one, where feveral bifhops of thofe times prefer'd accufations againft one another to Conftantine, who would not look into any of them, but order'd them all to be burnt before him. The font-part of the baptiftery is furrounded by eight large pillars of porphyry, with as many of white marble over them, which fupport the cupola above. Here we faw a Jew bap- tis'd. Near this church is a large hofpital, and a palace i both built by Sixtus Quintus : the laft he did not live to finifli, at leaft not to inhabit, Scala Santa. A little further is the Scala Santa; they fay that thefe are the very ftairs our Saviour went up, to be examined before Pontius Pilate ; and that they were brought from Pilate's pa- lace at Jerufalem by Helena the emprefs, mother of Conftan- tine. They are of marble, and have a fort of channel, which fcems to have been cut all along the top of each, parallel to the edge, for it does not feem fuch as could have been made purely by wearing. None are to go up thefe ftairs, but upon their knees, faying a Faier Nojier, and Ave Maria at every ftep ; for the doing of which they obtain a remiffion of a third part of their fins. We faw a pilgrim creeping up them, and cxercifing the difcipline on his back all the way. The ROME. S. M A R I A M A G G I O R E. 219 The form of begging in the neighbourhood of thefe ftairs is, that you'll give them a bcijcc *, and they'll go up the Scala •Tenofthcm S-^"ta for you. _ / -f,f- At the top of the flairs is a Crucifixion, the Bleficd Virgin and S. John, painted by Cigoli ; and beyond that is the Sancium San^orum, a repofitory of reiiqucs. Parallel to the afccnt of thefe holy (l:airs, are two pair more on each fide, which l^rad up into a portico or gallery, common to them all. Thefe were made by Sixtus V. for the convcniency of the devout, and there is a handfome front of the Doric order to the whole. The church of S. Maria Maggiore -f-had the place of its foun- s. Maria dation pointed out by a miracle, according to the flory they Maggiore. tell, which is this ; That two rich devotees, who had a mind t The to build a church to the honour of the Bleficd Virgin, bcfought fj^nrbe^" her to fignify to them her pleafurc where fhe would have it caufe 'lis the built. It was revealed to them that they fhould build it in 'a'^g^'^ o*" ^"X fuch a place as they fliould find next morning cover'd with fnow. churches de- This accordingly they found on the Efquiline Mount the fifth djcatedtoihc day of Auguft ; fo to work they went, and built the church ^"^"' '^^'^^ there : and annually on that day, they ftill gather leaves of fome fmall white flowers, and flrew them on the top of the church, and about it, in memory of the miraculous appoint- ment. This church is very noble and magnificent, as well as ancient. The back front, which makes much the greatefl appearance, is modern : the portico at the principal entrance is ancient, fupported by antique pillars, and is adorn'd with old Mofaic work. The pillars which are on each fide the great nave are % There are antique t ; there are feveral fmaller, which fupport tabernacles, fo"y°!" ''"^n» 1 , +,' , /- , , , I - ' ' • 11 taken from towards the upper end of the church ; thele are antique like- thetempleof wife, of beautiful colours, and rare kinds of marble ; particu- JunoRcgina. larly the cipolim, fo called from the refemblance of its veins to an onion cut acrofs : and another, tho' only black and white, Angularly priz'd for the exquifite delicacy of thefe colours (if Jiich they may be call'd) and the beauty of the veins. This fort is called the nero e b'wncho dcgli anlichi, [the black and white of the ancients], and properly, for there is no quarry of it now known ; nor indeed is there any of t!ie ftone in Rome, that I could hear of, befides what is here, and in the church of F f 2 S. 220 ROME. S. M A R I A M A G G I O R E. S. Caecilia, which I fhall after take notice of. It is mention'd by Pliny, as what was very fcarce in his time. This done is • Their palm valued at 1 5 piftoles per palm *. For pillars of porphyry fup- is about nine port the tabernacle of the great altar. There are two pil- li'fh "^^ "^ ^^^^ of marmo di porta fanta, a beautiful reddidi bnnvn, with tranfparent veins. They have no other name for this marble, it being very fcarce, and call it fo becaufe the frame of the porta fanta [holy gate] at St. Peter's church is of the fame fort. We faw a vail pillar of the fame kind, unpolilh'd, of fifteen foot and a half diameter ; it lay near the Tiber, and very likely in the fame place where it was firft landed, for it would be no fmall piece of work to remove it. At one end is engraved, hup. Caf. Domitiani Aug. Germanici^ N. III. This no doubt was intended with others for fome great work of that emperor, which pofTibly might be prevented by his death. Indeed among all the remains of antiquity fcarce any thing I think is more entertaining than the columns, of an incredible variety of marbles, (if by that general name we may call all thofe beautiful ftones), which were colleded from all parts of the univerfe, when the Roman empire was in its fulleft extent and greateft glory. Of thefe columns, befides fuch as have been ereded in later fabricks, many others are kept in the palaces^ without being put to any other ufe, than fometimes to fupport bufts at the top of them, and often without any thing at all, as being efleem'd a fufficient fight themfelves ; as particularly at the Palazzo Bracciano. The two great ornaments of this church, are the magnifi- cent chapels of Sixtus V. and Paulus V. on each fide the church, oppofite to each other. Thefe chapels perfectly match one another, and are both furprifingly fine. The cielings are of flucco gilt J and the walls perfedly cover'd over with marble, fculpture and painting. In each of them is the monument and ftatue of the founder of the chapel on one fide of it, and on the oppofite fide is that of the patron or benefaftor of the foun- der. The founder in each is kneeling, and the patron is fitting, and under each of the patrons is exprefi"ed that it is grati animi monumentmn [a monument of a grateful mind.] The pa- tron of Sixtus V. was Pius V. who had made him bifhop of S. R O M E. S. M A R I A M A G G I O R E. 221 S. Agatha, and a cardinal. The patron of Paulus V. was Clement VIII; under his monument is wrote, C/emrn/i VIU. P. M. Paiiliis V. P. M. Rom. grati animi monumentum pofuit. And under his own is, Paulus V. P. M. mortis me/nor, vi'vens Jibipofuit. " Paal V. pope, being mindful of death, erefted " this for himfelf in liis Hfc-time." Befides the like inibrip- tion of gratitude under that of Pius, as there is under Cle- ment's, there are large accounts infcrib'd in marble of fome of the adtions of the former, as a temporal prince, with b.iffo- relievo's reprefenting them. I tranfcrib'd one of the infcrip- tions. Selinum Turcarum tyr annum, midtis iytfolcntem vicloriis, in gen- ii par at a clajje, Cyproque expugnatd Chrijiianis extrema minitan- tem, Pius V. fader e cum Philippo II. Hifp. rege ac Rep. Ven. inito, M. Ant. Columnam pontijicice clajji prajiciens, ad Echina- das inj'ulas, h ojii bus ■^oooo ccejis, loooo in potejlatem redaBis, triremibus \%Ci captis, ()o demerjis, \ ^000 Chrijiianis a feriiitute liber aiis, precibus & arm is deficit. The fubftance of it is, that Pius V. in alliance with Philip the fecond of Spain, and the republic of Venice, having made M. Ant. Colonna admiral of his fleet, with his prayers and arms, gave a great overthrow to the Turks (who were grown infolent with their vidtories, having taken Cyprus, and threatening utter ruin to the Chriltians) at the iflands Corzolari, in which engagement were 30000 of them kill'd, loooo made prifoners, f8o gallies taken, and 90 funk, and 15000 Chrifti- ans delivered from flavery. Another is upon his affifting Charles the Ninth of France againft his rebellious fubjedts, and refettling him in the throne. The ftatue of Sixtus V. tho' it be not of thehighefi: tafte of fculpture, is very good *, and the face muft have been like him: . <y\^ the for in the very marble-countenance one may read the charader ^ofk of Val- of the man ; the fubtlety of the fox, and the courage of the lion, ^"^'^j"° ^°^' and an air of pleafantry mix'd with a good deal of defign. In the middle of this chapel is an altar moft richly adorn'd with rt^tuesof metal gilt ; and under it is kept what they fay is the manger where our S-winur was laid : whence it is commonly called the Chapel of the Prafepe. 222 R O M E. S. M A R I A M A G G I O R E. In the chapel of Paulus, the chief altar is at the further end, fronting the entrance, and is as fine as can well be imagined. It has four pillars of oriental jafper fluted with pedeftals of that and agate ; and ornaments, difpers'd in other parts, of feve- ral forts of precious ftones. Befides the marble flatues, and baflb-relievo's, the decorations of gilt metal and other curious and rich miterials, there are fine paintings of Guido Reni, ca- valier Arpinas, and other mailers; and a Madonna, painted by S. Luke, in that curious tafte of painting which has been already fpoken of. Before the back-front of this church ftands a granite obe- lifk, which anciently ftood (with another anfwering to it) before the entrance to the fepulchre of Auguftus Caefar; as is intima- ted in one of the infcriptions. ChriJliDei in ceteniam viven- tis cunabula IcetiJJime cob, qui mortui fepulchro Augujli trijiis fe-rciebam. " I who with forrow ferved at the fepulchre of " the dead Auguflus, now moft joyfully pay homage to the " cradle of Chrifl God living for ever." There is another infcription pretty remarkable, but as it re- lates to a legend in the church De Ara Coeli, without which it is fcarce intelligible, I fliall forbear fetting it down till I come thither. This obelifk was ercdted by order of Sixtus V. and from it is a profpecfl of the Strada Felice, (above mention'd) of above a mile long that way, flrait as a line, which he likewife made, and called by his own name. Before the other front, is placed a noble Corinthian pillar, fluted, which was taken from the temple of Peace : it was the only intire one remaining there. This pillar was eredted by Paul V. and infcrib'd, BeatiJJimce Virgini, ex ctijm vifceribus Princeps vere Pads genitiis e/i. " To the moll bleifed Virgin, out " of whofe womb he that was truly Prince of Peace was born." Henry IV's A little further, going towards the church called Santa pillar. Crocein Gierufalemme, is a pillar of another kind, one that has nothing to do with peace : 'tis the pillar of Henry IV. of France. When that prince embrac'd the Roman-catholic faith, the • Clem.Vlir. pope * requir'd he fhopld erecft at Rome in memory of his con- verfion, a pillar, with a crofs on the top, and this infcrip- tion, in hocfigno vinces ; [under this enfign thou flialt conquer;] alludin? R O M E. S A N T A C R O C E, &c. 223 alluding to the ftory of Conftantine, who upon a vifion of fuch a crofs, with thefe words infcribed, turned Chrillian, and van- quifhcd his enemies. Henry IV. conlcnted, but made the pillar exaitly in the form of a cannon ; on the top of which he placed a finall crofs, and caufed the infcription [in hoc figno vinces\ to be written round the body of the pillar or cannon. Sir P. Rycaut, in the life of Clement IX. tells us, " That " the French king having allow'd this pope to demolilh the pil- " lar which was eredled at Rome in the time of Alexander VII. " for a memorial of the banifliment of the Corfi, the pope in " like manner gave licence to the French to take away and de- " molifh the crofs which was erefted at Rome over againfi: the " church of S. Anthony, in the time of Clement VIII. in me- " morial of the converfion of Henry IV. to the Roman faith." He muft mean the fame that we have been fpeaking of, which ftands in the place he defcribes : but there itilill ftands ; and it feems ftrange to me, that Clement IX. Ihould think the French would ufe the liberty he gave them to take it down ; and more flrange indeed that Clement VIII. fliould allow it to be fet up, in the form we fee it. The church of Santa Croce in Gierufalemme is more remark- Santa Croct. able for its antiquity than any extraordinary beauty. Ic was built, as they fay, by Conftantine, and confecrated by S. Sylvefter in the year 319. It has a good deal of old Mol'aic, and fome few good paintings. The Tribuna is painted by Pinturiccio, the ftory of S. Helena's finding the crofs at Jerufalem : in me- mory of which, the church takes its name. They ihew a llatue of her, which is very excellenrfrom the head downwards, but that part, I believe, wab midelong before (he was born, (for it has the appearance of the true antique,) and the head long after flie was dead. Here they pretend to have feveral reliqucs re- lating to our Saviour's crucifixion : the dice, the lpunL;e, and the fuperfciiption. The church of S. Bibianais little and ordinary enough : 'tis s. Bibiana. vifited by (Grangers for the fake of an admirable llatue of that faint in white marble by Bernini, which is efieem'd by fome the chief of all his works. Below the altar, is a vafe of oriental alabafter, wherein is kept the body of that faint. It was brought from the maufohtum of Augufius. Above the pillars. 224 R O M E. G R A N D G I E S U. pillars, on each fide the church, is painted her hiftory in frefco, by Pietro da Cortona, and Auguftino Ciampelli. They {hew the pillar to which (lie was tied, when fcourg'd to death. Whoever has a mind to read all the virtues of holy water, may read them at large in this church, in a tablet hungagainft the wall. To tell the reader that the churches of the Jefuits are mag- nificently fine, and exceffively rich, is very unnecefTary j and to attempt a defcription of them, in a manner endlefs. The beauty of the altars is perfedlly furprifing, both for materials and workmanfhip. There is none ftrikes you more than that Grand Giefu. of S. Ignatius in the Grand Giefu, where is a ftatue of that faint in filver feven foot high ; the ornaments of his habit are iet thick with jewels. This is ftiewn only on great days. At other times 'tis hid by a good pidlure, which clofes the nich it (lands in. The architecture about the altar is nobly defign'd, and exaiftly executed ; the pillars on each fide are fluted with lapis lazuli ; the capitals and pedeftals are of gilt metal, and narrow ribs of the fame metal go along between the flutings. On the outfides of thefe, are noble hiftorical and emblematical fculptures in white marble, [altiflimo relievo] full as big as the *DonebyIe life*. This is erteem'd one of the fineft altars in Rome. 'Tis ^'^°'' hard indeed to fay which is the fineft of all, fome excelling in one part, fome in another. S. Ignatius. That of the Beato Gonzaga in the church of S. Ignatius at the Roman college is little inferior to thelaft mention'd. Thecieling of this church is painted by Padre Pozzo, well known by his book of perfpedlive. The colouring is lightfome and gay, but not very ftrong. If in his famous cupola here, he had given us a little lefs of the ftrength, and more of the lightfomenefs, it would have had a better effc<5l ; not but -that it is extremely fine as it is. It is indeed but the reprefentation of a cupola upon the flat roof J it's made in that part of the church, where, if real, it ought properly to be; and from the place mark'd out on the floor, in the middle of the great nave, to viev/ it from, one would almort imagine it were fo. It is not unlikely that he might induftrioufly make the main body of it the darker, the better to fet off a aipoletta or lantern which feems to rife in the crown of this painted cupola, and to attain that furprifing efl?"ea. ROME. S, ANDRE A DE' GIESUITr. 225 efTc(5t, that the light feems to come through it, the' there be no real opening in it : and if he has for that purpofo a little over- done it in the (hades, the other excellencies of the performance make full amends. Tiiere is, I think, a print of this cupola in iiis hook of perfpedlive. The little church of S. Andrea, belonging to the Noviciates S. Andrea dc' of the Jefuits, is as beautiful as can be imagined ; 'twas built by *-""='""'• Bernini : he I'eems to have taken his thought from the Pan- theon, particularly in his diipofition of the altars. The church is of an oval figure, wherein perhaps he miglit induftrioufly vary from the other, that the imitation might not be lb eafily pcr- ceiv'd : but that ketn'd to me the only thing one would wifli otherwife in it : and the entrance is at the fide of the oval, which I think is far from mending the matter. No coft has been fpar'd in the adorning it. 'Tis all incrufted with the fineft forts of marble ; the ftucco-roof adorn'd with foliage gilt, and enliven'd with figures of angels and little cherubs, is as beauti- ful as can be imagin'd : a little cupola, in the middle, has a border round its bottom almoft fill'd with exceeding pretty heads of cherubs ; fome vacant fpaces are left, which fecrn ready to be fupplicd by others that are coming down along the fides of the cupola. Ttie beauty and richnefs of fome of the altars and tabernacles, having their whole friezes and other flat parts of the fineft-colour'd lapis lazuli, adorn'd with foliages of filver gilt, between the parts whereof you fee the beautiful variety of ilones, arc hardly to be exprefled. The altar-pieces, in the little chapels that go round, are painted by very good hands, Carlo Maratti, Padre Pozzo, Guglielmo Borgognone, Giacin- to Brandi, and Baciccio. In an apartment of tho convent, by this church, is a beauti- ful llatue in marble of Beatus Staniflaus lying on a bed, per- form'd by Monfieur le Grot, an excellent artill. 'Tis no wonder the churches belonging to the Jefuits fliould SMariaddl* be rich; fome of thofe, even of the begging orders, are fo to^'"°"^" a great degree. That called S. Maria della Vittoria belonging to the Carmelitani Scalzi, a bare-foot order, (whofe merry emilTary, Fra Stcphano, well known to all the Englidi that come to Rome, made us frequent vifits) is all overlaid with marble, gilding, fculpture, and fine painting : fo rich have they G g taken 2a6 ROME. S. P H I L I P P O N E R I. taken care to make their church, out of the alms they receive; for thev have no pofleffions, but fubfill altogether upon cha- rity, which 1 believe is fcarce ever wanting to them : the zeal of the people in that country, excited by the artifices of the priefls, is fuch, that many are open-handed to them, whofe ' own families fulTer for it. There are feveral paintings in this church by Guido, Dome- nichino, Guercino, and other great mafiers. One whole chapet is p.unted by Domenichino. But what makes the nobleft ap-. pearance, is the chapel ofS. Terefa. The ftatue of that faint: dying away, and the angel comforting her, in white marble, is elleem'd one of the principal works of Bernini : there is a won- derful exprefhon in the countenance of the faint ; the angel I' did not lb much admire. The vault of this chapel is finely painted by Baciccio, the fubjeft is a Glory, with angels. S.Philippo The church of S. PhilippoNeri, commonly called la Chi e fa "■ Nucvn, the new church, is a fine ffrudture, and has fome ex- cellent paintings ; the cieling, cupola, and Tribuna, all by Pie- tro da Cortona. The BlefTed Virgin crown'd, by the cavalier Arpinas. Two pieces by Barocci ; two by Lazaro Baldi, oval j three of Rubens ; not his beft manner. A Madonna by Carlo Marat, his beft man-ner ; an admirable piclure, both for defign and harmony of colours. s. Nicola To- xhe church of S. Nicola Tolentino is a new church too, and' moft exquifitely adorn'd with marble, gilding, and painting by Lazaro Baldi, Giro Ferri, and other eminent mafters, with a noble piece of fculpture at the great altar, by Algardi. s. Andrea The church of S. Andrea della Valle is a large and noble ftrudlure. The cupola, painted by the cavalier Lanfranc, con- ftdering it in all its qualities, the grandeur of the defign, the. freedom of the execution, with the beauty and harmony of colouring, is afurpriling performance, and may, I think, at leaft compare with any other whatever. The ftory is the Aluimption of the Elefled Virgin, with the apoftles round the bottom ; and above are angels playing on mulical inflruments. In the angels below it, are the four evangelifls, by Domenichino, well wor- thy to accompany the other. The Tribune of the great altar, reprefenting the ll:ory of S. Andrew, in feveral compartiments, is finely painted by Carlo Cignani, and the cavalier Calabrefe, difcipleof Lanfranc. In, JcUa Valle. ROME. S. ANDREA DELLA VALLE. 227 III an apartment adjoining to this church on Wednefdays Rxoicifm. in the alteinoon, is perfbrm'd the ceremony of cxorcilni, and they never tail of perfons pollefs'd with devils for thtm to caft out. Some of them might pollihly he poor creatures trou- bled with real fits, hyfterick, or fuch likci but otheis there we're that, I believe, could be polfefs'd or not, juft as they pleas'd. A fturdy beggar, that kept his ftation in a place we often pafs'd by, was once under exorcilhi when we came to fee the ceremony. Whether the fellow were confcious that we knew him, and that we had feme check upon his devil and put him out of his play, I can't tell ; but he adted his part in a very clum- fy and aukward manner, manifclllv affcded. Some ihe-dic- moniacks the holy father t'ound ditHculty enough to deal with ; their agitations and convulfions were very lirong, and moft of their fits came upon them jull as they were going under the prieft's hands. Violent Hiaking of the head, gogling of the eyes and foaming at the mouth, were the chief fvmptoms j thcfe were follow'd with fwellingof the breafl:, and fudden fprings and bounces. Wlien the holy water was fprinkled, the dicmon was moll outrageous; and then a little itroaking an<l foothing was nccellary to abate the fury. When the daemon was tired, the poor Pythonilfa lay a while as in a trance, and then all was well. As we came out, the exorcift told us that fometimes he hid fetch'd iron nails out of tome of them, co/l lunghi Jicuro [thus long for certain] marking out the length of his linger. I was once afk'd by one in Rome, whether we had any mi- racles in England ? i told him no : neither had we any Dacmo- niacks. And to Ipeak the truth, I believe they have no more th.'.n we; I ani afraid the fame may be faid of their miracles toj ; but the people mull be amufed every way, and if there were no Dxmoniacks, there would be no ej^orcifms. The church of S. Katharina di Siena is fo exadly finifli'd in s. Kath. di • -ry part with marble, gilding, and their other ufual orna- Siena, mcnts, that it looks like a perfecl: cabinet. The paintings en the cieling are by Louigi Gurzi. In this church we i'aw a nun (a noble lady) receive her Nun lubitcJ. h.ibit. She came into the church arefs'd as rich as hands cou'd make lier. Her air was pcrfedtly powder'd with jewels, and her clothes fet thick with them. She was plac'd in a chair G a 2 before 228 ROME. S. K A T H. D I S I E N A. before the great altar, while an oration was fpoken in praife of the monaftick ftate, applauding her choice of it, and magnify- int^ her pious refolution to abandon the vanities of the world, that {he nfiight become a fpoiife of Chrift. When that was ever, fhe advanc'd to the billiop, [fince cardinal Conti, bro-- ther to the pope, who was eleded that morning]. She came with all the appearance of complacency and fatisfaftion that it was poffible for her to put on ; yet we cou'd not but fancy her fmiles a little forc'd. Some ladies, her relations, then began to rifle her of all her finery, and difengag'd with fome difficult ty the jewels from her plaited locks ; off went her rich brocades, and ftript fhe was of all to her boddice. Then thebifhopcut off a lock of her hair, which was put with the jewels into a large filver bafon. Then they went to drefhng her, which was much fooner perform'd than the undreffing. A little cap of white crape, and a plain garment of the fame, were foon put on ; a crown of thorns was fet on her head, a lilly, the enfign •S.Dominic. of the * order fhe was enter'd into, put into one hand, and a crucifix into the other. Thus ihe went (poor lady) attended with tapers and anthems, in the bloom of youth, into clofe durance, there to fpend her days, and grow old, within ftone walls and iron grates. She was a handfome frefh-colour'd young lady, and feem'd of a conftitution that nature had meant for another way of life. How far this lady might be confenting to fo great a change of life, fhe beft knows ; for a confent is neceffary : but, with refpedl to fome, I have been well affur'd, that 'tis fuch a con- fent, as people atfea give that their goods may be thrown over- board in a ftorm; and a perfedl ftorm it is that thefe poor crea- tures undergo, when fair means and fine florid ftories won't do : 'tis reprefented to them fuch a fcandal and iTiame to refufe, they are fo teas'd and perplex'd, not only by their own relati- ons, but by the priefts and abbeffes, and others of the religi- ous, that they are at lafh reduced to the condition of the lady, who was fo clofely purfu'd by her lover, that at laft fhe faid fhe muft marry him to be rid of him. I was told by a grave perfon in Rome, one of their own religion, and in orders too, that as he was once talking at the grate with a nun of his acquaintance, another of them, 5 who R O M E. S. A G O S T I N O. 229 who was dctain'd there contrary to her inclinations, came, in a perfcdtly fraiitick manner, into the parlatorio *, tearing her* An outer hair, and making hideous complaints, and crying, Prrgafe ^°"'"^""' D'o per mi' fori defperata. " Pray to God for me, I am in X"nrc"™. " delpair." 'Tis certainly a mofl: grievous hardrtiip upon thcfe pafl°"r« poor creatures, (whether menaced or dccoy'd into profeflion, at an age they cannot judge what they are doing) to keep them there afterwards contrary to their inclination, and perhaps the violent impuhes of a confiitution, which may become more rebellious through the notion of a perpetual refliraint. I faw a young creature take the habit at Milan, whofe el- der filter had been a prob:itioner in the fame convent -, and when the time came for her profeflion, truly flie would not be profefs'd : all the means her relations or the priefts could ufc, were in vain j then they removed her from that convent to the female Capuchins, to try whether the feverity of that or- der would reconcile her to the other, which was more eafy : but 'twas all one to her, they were all nuns, and a nun ftie would not be; and bravely Aood it out to the laft. When they found they could do no good with her, they fairly difmiffed her; and foon after flie got a good hulband. She was there to attend the ceremony of her fifter's admiflion into the convent ; drefs'd out in her wedding-clothes, and richly bedeck'd with jewels ; and feem'd very well fatisfy'd to find herfelf on the right fide of the grate. The door of the convent was flung open upon this occa- fion ; whither the fair prifoners came by turns to fee the com- pany, and talk with their friends at the entrance. There was a handfome entertainment of chocolate and frefco liquors, and very free converfation. They bade me be fare when I return'd into England, to perfuade fomc of my relations or acquaintance to come and be amongft them. The poor girls feem'd over- joy'd at a little converfe with flrangers; diverted now of all artificial referve, which is of no ufc in & cloifter. In the church of S. Agoftino is a fine pidure of Raphael, s. Asortin* . reprefenting the prophet Ifaiah, and two angels. It is painted in a grand liile, and, as we were told, in emulation of Mich. Angelo, after he had drawn the large head in the Piccolo Far- nefe, in Raphael's abfcnce ; which 1 fliall take notice of, when I comt 230 R O M E. S. O N U P H R I O. -I come to fpeak of that place. There are feveral other very good paintings and fculpcures. The church itfelf is of the plainer fort. S. Onuphrio. We went fometirnes to vifit the hermits of S. Onuphrio, .from whole convent is a fine prolpedt of the city; as there is too of Frefcati, Mount Algido, and other parts of the countr}'. From hence we had the entertaining fight of the Girandoia, -and other fire-works, on the callle of S. Angelo, upon occafion «f the pope's acceffiori. They fay that this S. Onuphrio was fon to a Perfian king, was expos'd in a foreft, and fuckled by a deer; and that every year, on the twelfth of June, the deer of the neighbourhood come and pay homage to his (hrine. In their church is a ftatue of the faint with his hair and beard reaching as low as his * J'ia^'e''«n knees *. There is lik^wife Taflb's monument, with a good Drui'ds repre- "trattO Ol him. iented much In the garden of thefe hermits we faw great numbers of the mtmler '^"^^ ^"^^^^^^^' °'' Alining Ai^s, frilking about, and dancing by their own light. Some have wrongly afferted that thefe creatures iliine only while they fly ; as if their light proceeded entirely from their motion : 'tis no fuch thing : I once faw a little boy that had patch'd his face with them ; he came into the cofFee- houfe, and there they fhone as they ftuck on his face, notvvith- ftanding the light of the candles. I afterwards crulh'd one of them, and the I'eparated parts ail flione. -T'-i-nnadel In the Madonna del Portico, called likewife the Madonna '■"^^- in Campittlli, a pretty church, built by Bernini, is a chapel of the family Altieri, a great family in Rome, where are mo- numents of a hufband and wife oppofite to each other ; the only infcription on hers is Uinbra [fliadow], on his Nihil [no- thing]. Bufts are on their refpeclive monuments. At a confiderable height above the great altar is a crofs cf oriental alabafter, fix'd in the wall by way of window ; for it tranfmits the light, and that in a glorious manner; this crofs was cut out of part of an old pillar that was taken from Livia's portico. Where this church flands they fay there was for- merly a temple of Apollo, and that.it was built with part of the materials. The' R O i\I E. M O N T E D I P I E T A. 231 The chapel of the Monte di Pieta is all incruftcd with mar- Monte c'i ri- ble, and has feme fine modern fculptures. A dead Clirift in '^^''^• mezo relievo, by Domenico Guidi. Tobias figning a writino- for the payment of money, by Monf. le Grot*. Jofeph giv- * The origi- ing corn to his brethren. * nlmodeKoF There are niches for four ftatues, whicli they were at work IcnJ^^ndT upon when we were there ; Fi^cs, Spes, Charitas, EkcmoJ'yna: y<-ry fine one) [Faith, Hope, Charity, Alms] : the painted models were then Kn"Tan<j" in the niches. Ch.frity was exprefs'd by a woman accompa- nied with fome boys, whom fhe was embracing ; Alms, by a wom4n giving fomelhing to boys, that accompanied her. The former has the emblem of a flaming heart. The ornaments of this chapel are fuited with an allufion to the bufinefsof the place, to which the chapel belongs, which is a great bank for money ; and in which there is an cflice for the lending of money out upon pledges, and particularly fmall fums to poor people : if the fum exceed not fifty crowns, they may have it without intereft for twenty months ; if it do exceed that, it is liable to intereft, of only 2 per cent. And there is a way whereby people avoid this too, by taking out the money they want in levcral fums of fifty crowns upon difivTcnt pkdges, and perhaps at u little difiance of time between the one and the other : the pledge is to be the value of one-third more tlian the fum borrowed. The church of S. Pudcns and Pudcntiana was once (as they s. Puiicn., fay) the palace of the former, a fenator of Rome, converted '^^• to the faiih by S. Peter, who alfo lodged with him.; and there is in the church an infcription to that purpofe : Hac cvdes pri- mum hcfphium S. Petri. " This edifice was S. Peter's firlt " lodging." In the fine chapel of duke Gaetano in this church, are lome beautiful pillars of gid/lo atiiico, taken from Diocltfian's baths ; and of granitella orieiitale, called alfo pcdiculcjh, from little fpecks in it, which they fancy to have fome. rcfemblance to lice. Here are fine Mofaics in compartiment>, from dcfigns of Zuccharo, the ftory of S. Pudentiana, and her filler Prax- edes, gathering up the blood of the martyrs. And other ilorics. There is a well in the church, in which, they fay, are. ilt ROME. S. PIETRO IN VINCOLI. S. Pietro ^'illColi. are the bones of 3000 martyrs ; which probably gave cccafion to an infcription in this church, which pro-nifes to fuch as pay their devotions here, an indulgence for 3000 years, and a re- miffion of a third part of their fins. The church of S. Pietro in Vincoli, is now near the ruins of the baths of Titus, and is faid to have been once a part of them. The moft remarkable thing in this church is the noble monument of Julius II. the delign of Mich. Aiigelo, with the majeilick ftatue of Mofes in the middle of it, more than twice as big as the life j (which is pretty well known by the prints :) perform'd by that great fculptor's own hand, and efteem'd equal to the generality of the antique. The figures on each fide the Mofes, and finegrotefque baffo relievoes on the pedef- tals, are faid to be by Mich. Angelo himfelf too. One of thofe figures is intended to reprefent the contemplative, the o- ther the aftive life; tho' both fliew contemplation enough. The one looks downwards, the other looks upwards, both in a thoughtful manner. The latter, as I remember, they call'd the A<flive; tho' I think I fhould not have done fo. Thefe two figures are faid by others to have been only defign'd by Mich. Angelo, and cut by Rafaelle da Monte Lupo. A full account of this monument is to be (zcn in Condivi's life of Mich. Angelo. They keep in this church the chain wherewith, they tell you, S. Peter was bound ; it is expos'd and kils'd with great devo- tion by the people on the feaft day of S. Peter, in Vincoli, which is the firlt of Augufl, N, S. S. Martlno. The church of S. Martino a i Monti is part of the baths of Trajan. Under it are fome pieces of the old Mofaic floor, and other remains of the ancient building The pillars of the church are antique, taken from the baths ; the capitals feem modern ; the order is Corinthian. In this church they fay the Chriftians had the firft free exercife of their religion in Rome. Here are fome fine landfkapes in frefco of Gafpar Pouflin. Dell'Anima. In the facrifly of the church call'd DeH'Anima is a fine pidlure, an altar-piece, by Giulio Romano, wherein S. John prefents S. Rocco to the B. Virgin and Chrill:; S. Mark is below with the lion ; angels above : architecture and fmall figures in 23J R O M E. S. M A R T I N A. in the back ground. 'Tis all highly finifliM, but fomewhat hard ; the hair is all done with the point of tlie pencil ; the flefh is high colour'd, a little bricky i the fliadows are grown blackidi. The lion having been damag'd, was reflor'd by Carlo Marat. The cieling of the fatrifly is painted by Ronianelli, the flory of the Aflumption in the manner of Guido. In the church are two monuments by Fiamingo ; in one of them the countenances and bodies of the angels are moll ad- mirable. A priefl belonging to this church is eftecm'd to make the beft optick glalTes in Rome. We were inquiring for him one time in the facrifty, to fpcak to him upon the afl'air of glafTes, and were told that he was going to celebrate mafs, but that he was a /)uon huomo [a good man] and wou'd foon difpatch it, fo that we fliou'd nut need to wait long ; and he aniwer'd the charatfler they gave him. I think 'tis faid of cardinal Woolfey, that his expe- ditious difpatch of mafles, was his firft recommendation to king Henry the Vlllth's favour. The church of S. Martina in the Campo Vacclno, belonging S. Martina, to the painters, was built by Pietro da Cortona. There is a pidlure of Raphael, reprefenting S. Luke painting the BlefTcd Virgin, and himfelf flanding behind S. Luke's back. Whoever fees the Madonna's they afcribe to S. Luke, will believe he had more need [as a painter] to have llood behind Raphael's back. There is a grotta, under the church, of very good architedture ; fine antique pillars, and incruftations of marble in the pannels. There is a baflo relievo in terra cotia, of Algardi, a Dead Chrlll, 6cc. and other figures of martyrs, by the fame hand. The tomb of S. Martina is very fine, of giallo orientale. In the academy of S. Luke, adjoining, are colledtions ofcafts Aeadrm,- of from Trajan's pillars ; bafib relievo's in terra cotta, and mo- ' '' d«ls or defigns, in painting and drawing, of fuch as are to be admitted members of the academy, or contend for the prizes, which are only honorary, being medals, not worth above half a guinea apiece ; they are given by the pope ; the motto is. Virtus ipfa Jibi premhun. " Virtue is itfelf its own reward." There were two performances, for admittance, particularly pret- ty in their kind : one was a limning, done by Rofa Alba; H h it 234 ROME. S. A G N E S. it is a girl with a pigeon. The different finds pf white, in the pigeon, in the linen, and in the other white drapery, were very judicioufly obferv'd, and the whole finely executed. The other was a fmall model in white wax, haflb relievo j it was done by Ermenigildus Hamerani, that cuts the dies for the Pope's medals: it reprefents S. Luke fhewing a pidture of the B. Virgin, fupported by angels. There are likewife in the French academy founded at Rome by Louis XIV. colledlions of cafls in giefib from the pillars,, and feveral of the beft ftatues in gieito, for the young people to delign after, which they may do better there (by reafon of the more commodious fituation, and better lights) than from the original ftatues themfelves. I'he reader will pardon my non-obfervance of the order of topography, as to the places I fpeak of :— — I take them as they were Ihewn me, and as I find them in my journal : fo, from the church lafl-mentioned, I proceed to that of S. S.Agnes. Agnes, without the Porta Pia I there tranfcrib'd an in- fcription on a tomb-flone, for the oddnefs of the Latia and writing. DEPOSITA SVSANNA IN PACE DIE X^^II KALENDAS NOBENDRES CONSVLATV ANICI BASSI ET FLI FYLIPPI V V'c'c QVAE BIXIT ANNIS pFm XXV FECIT CUM • MARITO ANNVS F M SEPTE EXVPERANTIVS MARITUS SE VIVO VXORI DVLCISSiME SIBI ET POSTE RISQVE SVIS HOC TVMVLVM FECIT. At the botttom, there ^^-"~"— ^"^'•~— >^ A-P.-xi^ You go down about forty-eight marble ffeps to this church j it is very old, and as to the bulk of the ftrudlure not at all fine, but it has four porphyry pillars fupporting the tabernacle over the great altar, which are the finefl that can be feen. There are ROME. S. A G N E S. 235 arc fevtral otlicr antique pillars in the church, of fcverai ibits. two of them are white marble fluted, exadlly wrought and very curious. There arc two cancllcUicks antique, of marble, fine foliage, figures, and other ornaments. As I remember they were about 4 or 5 foot high. In a little chapel belonging to this church is a moil admira- ble buft in white marble, of our Saviour, done by Michael Angclo. I was furpri6,'d to ice fo much delicacy, mildnefs and fweetncfs proceed ifom his rapid chifcl. The lower pare of the face put me in mind of the frequent reprefentations I had feen of Marcus Aureliu? ;■ and who knows whether the fculptor might not defigncdly take a hint from the reprefenta- tion of a perfon who had in his cljaracter what the artifi; had a mind to exprefs, and has exprcLfcd, in this countenance. Hard by is a rotonda, call'd by the common people, and by Tr-mplc of moft antiquaries, the Temple of Bacchus, and 1 think indeed '^-"hus. it carries the marks of having been done at a time of good archi- teiSture, efpecially in the make and pofition of a double circle of Co^intliian pillars which fupport the cupola. But, Ficaroni wou'd allow it to be no other than the maufola:um of Conftan- tia, daughter of Conftantinc j and that thofc who call it the temple of Bacchus are induced thereto only by the Mofaic or- naments of vintages, which are feen on the roof. Among the reO, is a cart driven along, full of grapes ; the wheels of the cart arc folid, without Ipokes, like a mill-ftone. The fame fort is to be feen on the Antonine pillar, and in feverul old bailo relievo's. In fome parts where the Mofaic is dtflroyed, the plafter is painted, in imitation thereof. On one fide is a huge Sarcophagus of porphyry, in which the body of Conftan- tia, they fay, was depofitcd. It is 'hewn out of one folid piece; the length 8 foot ; the breadth 5 foot and half, and the height 4 foot 2 inches. The cover, about 2 foot thick, is of one folid piece likewife. This Sarcophagus is adorn'd with grapes too, and boys in baflb relievo, (a moft difficult and laborious work in fo hard a ftone) but of no very elegant taftc. There are prints of it extant. The church of S. Lorenzo, without the walls, is very old; S. Lorcnre. faid to have been built in Conftantine's time. The pillars of it were taken from a temple of Mars, and other places, for they H h 2 arc 236 A fine Sarco- phagus. ' A fow, be- tokening Sruitfulnefs. ROME. S. LORENZO. are of feveral forts. The pillars in the nave are Ionic, granite, large anJ fine. In the upper part, beyond the great altar, which is after the Greek fafhion ifolata, [i. e. detach'd from any wall] are Corinthian pillars of a white marble, which they call pa- vonata, from fome fpots in it like thofe in peacocks feathers : the capitals of thefe are admirably wrought. There is in this church an old Sarcophagus with fome fine baf- fo relievo's reprefenting the ceremonies of an ancient wedding. It is not in that circumftanceof time as the Aldobrandine, which I fhall fpeak of hereafter. In this they are joining hands, with Juno Pronuba between them, who lays her hands on their fhoulders as putting them together. This is engrav'd by Bar- toli, and is to be feen in the Admiranda, page 58 ; to which I refer the reader for the front-part. There are baflb relievo's too at each end, which he has not engrav'd. At one end are three fninijlra [attendants;] one has fomewhat in her hand, which fignior Ficaroni called a Patera [a fort of di(h ufed in facri- fices,] it is of a larger proportion than thofe are ufually reprefent- ed ; the other two have callcets or boxes, which feem as for unguents. At the other end is the Porca Fcecunditath *, and one with a knife in hand to kill it. Behind thefe are two other figures, one with a garland, and the other with a bafket of flowers and fruits. On the front of the coperchio, or cover, (the other part is gone) is a reprefentation of the birth and death of man. The birth reprefented by a chariot and horfes mounting, as if going up a hill ; death, by their going down : and the horfes knees bent, as falling -J-. In the middle ftands Jupiter, on his right hand Juno, on his left Proferpina, ac- cording to fignior Ficaroni, for their infignta or fymbols are damaged, but feem to be a peacock and Cerberus : beyond thefe are, Caftor flanding, with his horfe, on one fide, and Pollux with his on the other. I have been the more particular in the defcription of this Sarcophagus, it being efteem'd one of the moft curious for this fort of antiquity. There is rn this church another Sarcophagus, of Greek marble, all adorn'd with grapes, young Bacchus's, birds, &c. f In Conftaiuiue's arch the eaft and weft are exprefled by a like reprefentation ; pro- bably as the one is the place of the fun's rifing, and the other of liis fetting. The. ROME. T I B E R I N E I S L A xN D. 237 The ancients feemcd to afTeifl a good deal of feflivity in the decoration of their funeral monuments, as if they would make death appear as little like death as might be. Tins is to be fccn in the epula fiinebiia [funeral banquets] which are rcprefenteil on fome ; and hunting-matches, and Bacchanals, which arc both of them frequent ornaments. In one at Pifa, there is a Triton carrying oft" a naked nymph ; and a naked man and wo- man embracing one another, of which I have given the defign. At Boliena is one very remarkable, which will be fpoke of when we come to that place. And, as if they thougiit the dead them- lelvcs could partake of the materials of luxury and jolhty offered at their fepulchres, they us'd to pour wine upon them, beftrew them with choice meats and flowers, and anoint them with, fvveet ointments ; which cuftom is alluded to by Anacrcon, Tl J'S yn "XiilV iii«.TitlsC. And fomewhat more fully by Mr. Cowley in his paraphraftlcal' tranllation. Why do we precious ointment fliow'r ? Nobler wines, why do we pour ? Beauteous fiow'rs, why do we fpread Upon the monuments o'th' dead ? The fame gaiety of fancy fhew'd itfelf in the nurfe at Co- rinth, who brought her dead child's bafket of play- things after the burial, and left them on the grave, cover'd with a tile, to keep the wet from them. How this accidentally gave a hint to the invention of the Corinthian capital, is well known to all profefTors and lovers oi architecture. In the church of S. Bartholomew all' Ilbla Teverina [on a Church of S little ifland within the Tiber | they keep what they call the body^-^^t'iO'°"'=*"- of that faint, under the gre-it altar, in a very fine old bathing- vale of porphyry. Four noble pillars of the fame ilone grace the great altar,' and the other pillars in the church are likewife antique, taken from the famous temple of i^fculapius, which flood in this place. In other refpedls this church is not of the fiuer fort,. Li^y. '33? ROME. TIBERINE ISLAND. Livy fays this ifland owed its original to the corn of Tarqui- nius Superbus, which, upon his expnlfion, was cut down by the people, and thrown into the Tiber, on the banks whereof it grew, when the water was very low, and flicking at the fliallows, the mud of the river fettled upon it; and by degrees, with the filth, carried down by the water, refting upon it, it became an iiland : but he fays he believes that additions were afterwards made to it by art, to raife it to that height, and bring it to that folidity, as to be fit to fupport temples and porticoes. It was afterwards built all round with ftone in the form of a great boat, and the two bridges Ceflius and Fabricius, which lead to it on each fide, are fo fituatcd, as if they were a pair of oars belonging to it. Thefe bridges remain, and part of the old boat. The ftatue of ^Efculapius, which was in his tem- ple here, is now in the Villa Farnefe, in the Palatine Mount. An infcription now remains, where his temple flood. AISCVLAPIO AVGVSTO SACRVM PROBVS . M . FICTORI . FAVSTI MINISTER . ITERVM . ANN I . XXXI . Jufl by, is another infcription, as follows : SEMONI SAN CO DEO FIDIO SACRVM SEX. POMPEIVS S P. F. COL . MVSSIANVS DECVR BIDENTALIS DONVM DEDIT. This is faid to be the infcription Juftin Martyr complains of, miftaking SEMONI for SIMONI, and applying that to Simon Magus, and therefore blaming the Romans for honouring as' a God fuch a magical impoftor as he was. It is agreed by the antiquaries that this was an old infcription to one of the Dii Indlgetes of the Sabines, thofe being called fcmoncs, a fort of middle deities, between the celeftial gods and mortal men. Deos, qiios neque ccelo d'lgnos afcribcrenl cb meriti pau- pertatem. ROME. T 1 B E R I N E I S L A N D. pertateni, neque terrenos eos depiitarent fro gratia veneratione. And the particular one, to whom this infcription is addrcfs'd, is i'uppos'd to have been Hercules, who was fometimcs called Scif!cus, q. d. Sanctus, an epithet often given hini by the poets, and Dens Fidius, as prefiding over the religion of oaths, quibus viaxima fuki dcbita. But the qucftion further dil- puted, is. Whether this be the very infcription Judin Martyr alludes to or no. Daille in his book De Ufu Putrum, who feems to be the firfl: objedtor to Juftin upon this head, re prc- fcnts it as the fame ; and charges the father with a falfe read- ing. Ficaroni fhew'd it to us for the fame ; Nardinus, Borri- chius, and others who have written of the antiquities of Rome, feem to take it for granted that 'tis the fame. Valcfius too and Dr. Grabe conclude that Juftin was impofed upon in the infcrip- tion. Others are of opinion, that he could not be impofed upon or miftaken in a thing he reprcfents as fo notorious. That the infcriptions Semoni Sanco were frequent, but tiiat this, which Juilin compluns of, is leprefented as the only one of the fort. That the Ifatue of Simon Magus [for he fpeaks of a flatue as well as of an infcription] was eredled by publick authority, whereas this Semoni Sanco was of private donation, fc. of Sex. Pompeius. That Simon Magus (according to Irenxus) was reprefented in the ftatue as a Jupiter; Semo Sancus always as Hercules. That the ftatue of Simon Magus (according to Theo- doret) was of brafs, but that the flatue which this infcription did belong to, mufthave been of flone. All the rcafon indeed given for that is, becaufe the bafis, whereon the infcription is made, is of flone. From whence they conclude, that the Itatue itlelf, tho' not now found, was of ftone too. But that argument is not at all conclufive; for, the bafcs are generally of fiione, even where the ftatue is of * brafs. It does not certainly appear to me, whether this was an infcription upon the peoeilal of a flatue or not. It is upon a flone which i? now part' of a wall, and ap- pears fiat and plain, like the refl of the Hones of the lame wall, * V:de Dtfoif. S. Augujlini mlvtrfmjcan. Fkirtfm. {fc. Mr. Le Clerc] f;ilJ to he writ bv Dr. Jcnkir, late maftcr of b. Joli. Cantnb. Reeves's Notes on the Apolofn,- of JufUn Martyr. And Richardfon's Pr^lcSliunn Ecclefittjlict. Amonij ihefe, I believe, is to be found the fum of what has beer, urged on this fide the qucftion. Wh.it Monf, Tillcmont fays of the matter is much to the fame purpofe, with what is advanc'd ia the books here cited. r and: 239 24-0 R O M E S. C i£ C I L I A. and ranging with them. Jufl by the other end of this ifland they fliew the foundations of the temple of Jupiter Lycaonius. The place where they are, was formerly part of the larger ifland, but is now a little ifland by itfelf. Here was likewife once in this ifland a temple of Faunus, but its remains are now under water. 9, chryfogo- In the church of S. Chryfogonus, of the Carmelites, lies an ""'• Englifli cardinal * buried in the beginning of the thirteenth century. They have here two moll: noble pillars of porphyry, and one thing very particular, an image of S. Maria de Carmine drefs'd out in a perfed: modern hoop-petticoat, with a world of other ornaments, which they had hung upon the ftatue againft one of her holidays. She was mightily fet out with candles, and had great adoration paid to her. They Ihewed us a large machine to carry the image, with its appurtenances, in proceffion. S. Cjecilia. The church of S. Ccecilia, according to the account there given, is that which was once her houfe. At the entrance, * I could not there is buried another Englifli cardinal*, with fome fpecial ^i^ny^mIc'o(?^^^U about his monument; as follows. thel'e cardi- "^'^- Artibus ijle pater famofiis in omnibus Adam 'Theologus fufmnus, cardiqiienalis erat. Anglia quce patriam, &c. The (que) fo ingenioufly put in the middle of cardinalis, I have endeavour'd to match in the tranflation. Fam'd father Adam, learn'd to a high degree, A top divine, cardaWinal was he : England his country — — — Under the great altar is a fine fl:atue in marble of S. Caeci- lia lying dead, done by Stephano Maderno, in the fame pofition her body was found (they are fure it was her's) in the catacombs of S. Sehaftian ; from whence it was brought hither. The ta- bernacle of the altar is fupported by four moft beautiful pillars of Nero e Biancho de i Antichi, the black and white of the ancients, which I before gave fome account of, in fpeaking of the R O M E. S. S A B I N A. 24 1 the cliurch of S. Miria Mafrgiore. That part in wliitli thi reat altnr flands, is feparatcd by a femicircular baluflride from • )e reft of the church, and ciirirjufly pav'd with feveral forts of i inible, oriental and others. A hundred lamps, as fo many veftal fires, are continimlly burning before the body of the Virgin Martyr. They fliewcd us the place where fl:ic was mar- tyr'd, which was then her bagnio. Her martyrdom, and other parts of her ftory, are there painted by Guido in his firfl: manner. They began with an endeavour to ftrangle her, but that would not take effedt : then they cut off her head, and after three days (he died, but not till (he firft had fcen her houfe confe- crattd by S. Urban, then pope, into a church. In the church of S. Franccfco della Ripa is an altar-piece s. Franctf.o painted by Ilanib.il Caracci, a dead Chrill, the BlcfPed Virgin, dc!!a Ripa. S. Magdalen and S. Francis, and two little angels attending. There is a moft beautiful forrow in the B. Virgin, and S. Mag- dalen. The two little angels arc fhewing the wounds, one in the hand, the other in the foot of the Chrifl. There is a moft admirable expreflion of fcdate forrow in one; and the other is crying outright ; the tears which trickle down his checks arc in pcrfed: motion, and you plainly read the paffion in every feature. Here is a very good figure in marble of S. Ludovico dying, by Bernini. They fliew S. Francis's chamber abuve; it is now a repofitory for relicks. There is a pretty contrivance of a friar of that convent to turn at once all the cafes of relicl;s to (hew them ; fo as that you may fee firrt one fide of them, then the other. The church of S. Sabina, on Mount Aventinc, was once a s. S^bina. temple of Diana, built by Servius Tullius. V^e faw there twenty-two antique pillars, Corinthian, fluted, and were told tiiat tv/o more are conceal'd by fome wall that has been built up there. They fliew a very large piece of touch-done, which the devil (they fay) threw at S. Dominic one night as he was praying in this church : it fell upon the pavement, and broke one of the ftones, which is now fixed up in a wall of the church. There is an odd fort of a pidlure of that faint in a {it-Uquifm, and the B. Virgin mHking her breall upon him to recover him. In one part of it is a dog with a lighted torch in his mouth ; a reprefcntation which is often repeated, I i particularly 242 ROME. S. M A R I A I N A V E N T I N O. particularly in the churches of the Dominicans, and (as I have fomewhere read) is an emblem of the inqiiifuion, or has fome alluiion to it : and this is the more probable, becaufe the inqui- fition is wholly in the hands of the Dominicans. There is a fine chapel in this church, the altar-piece painted by Moran- ' di ; and another above, where S. Dominic and two other faints us'd to watch whole nights in divine converfations : In divinii colloquiis vigiles permSidrunt, as fays the infcription. Thefe two chapels are both incruftcd with marble. Tiiere is another, which was the chamber of Pius V. now a chapel, with moft curious fret-work on the cieling, and paintings by Domenico Muratore. They fhew ftitl fome old baiTo-relievo's which did belong to the ancient temple, reprefenting the taking of crocodiles. 3. Maria in In the church of S. Maria in Aventino is a Sarcophagus; Aventino. JVJjnerva and the deceafed in the middle j on each hand the nine mufes j at one end Homer, at the other Pythagoras, at leaftSigniorFicaroni will fbppofe the latter to be him, becaufe there .is extant a Greek medal, wherein Pythagoras is in the fame attitude, pointing to a fphere ; and he wdl likewife fup- pofe what is here pointed at to have been a fphere — part is now broke off; but that which remains feem'd to me to (hew quite a different ihape. Ficaroni, who loves to carp at Fa. Mont- faucon, falls foul on him for faying in his D/i^r/z/w //fl//(://OT,. that there are Chriilian figures among thefe. S. Vicenzo In the church of S. Vicenzo and Anaftafio, without the walls, are the twelve apoflles painted in frefco after the defigns of Raphael, and executed, as fay fome virtuofi, by his hand; but that did not ai all appear to me. If they are of his hand, it feem'd to me to differ much from what we fee of his in other places. There is a picture of S. Anaffafius, faid to be nine hundred years old, which frights away devils, and cures dif- eafes, as in the infcription, Imago S. Anajiafn tnonachi ^ mar- tyris, cujiis afpetiu Jtigari da^mones ['tis enough, indeed, to fright the deviij mo^-hofque curari, a5ta fecundi concilii Niceni tejiantiir — As this is cxpreffed, it is not clear whether the mi- racle is afcribed to the ll-mt or to the picture ; I lliould apply it to the faint, but the people there apply it to the pidture ; perhaps it may be equally true of either. Here aod Anaflafio. ROME. S. P A U L. 243 Here they have the head of Zcno, captain of ten thoiifand uvo hundred and three martyr?, wlio were all buried in a church ]\\i\ by J 'tis that of S. Maria dc Scala Caeli. It takes that name S. Maua I- irom a vifion of S. Bernard, who, as he was here celebrating ^^^'■^^'^''' niafs for the dead, fell into an extafy, and faw a ladder [like Jacob's] by which the angels convcv'd, from purgatory to pa- :.idife, the fouls of the above-mention 'd martyrs. And this \iry flory is the fubjeft of the altar-piece. I fliould not trouble the reader, or indeed myfelf, with fuch flories as thefe, but that I think they fliew a good deal of the genius and temper of the people, one part of whom is fo ready to impofe, and the other to receive them. There is a fineTribuna, wrought in Mofaic, after the dcfign of cavalier Arpinas : it reprefcnts Clement VIII. cardinal Ai- dobrandini, S. Zeno, and others j the B. Virgin above. Under this church is an opening to the catacombs: tiie f)aflage goes under-ground, firft to S. Paul's, and thence to the catacombs of S. Sebaltian, not lefs than five miles, as they fay. Juil by, is the place where they tell you S.Paul v.'as martyr'd, and there they have built a pretty little church, dedicated to him. Within it are three fountains, which according to them were iniraculoufly made, by fo many feveral leaps the head took, aftet it was cut off. The water of thefe fountains cures all difeafes. One would wonder what occafion they have there for doctors. Thefe three fountains are adorn'd with fix pillars of Numidian marble, with other handfome architecture of the fame ; and a -bufl: of S. Paul at each. Two pillars of black porphyry, and two of red, adorn one of the altars, which is there ; and four of alab^Jiro forito, the other. Here is a fine picture of Guide, the martyrdom of S. Peter. The Bafilica of S. Paul is a very large old church : in which s.'Paul BaR- are eighty marble pillars, antique, taken from the Moles Adri- l'*^*- ana, Corinthian, forty of them fluted ; there are ten other an- tique pillars, two of them taken from the Temple of Mars, lifteen foot round, Ionic. The tabernacle is fupported by four pillars of porphyry. The Tribuna is very large, and wrought with old Mofaic. There is an ancient pillar of white marble, not eredted, with fculptures of the Crucifixion, Pilate wafhing liis hands, 6cc. Ficaroni here again falls foul on Montfaucon for I i 2 fjyii'g Ara Coeli. 244 R O M E. A R A C O E L r. faying it is uncertain whether this fculpture reprefents fome facred or profane rites. S- M^^f.^e The church of S. Maria de Ara Coeli is juft by the Capitol, and was once the temple of Jupiter Feretrius. The ancient pillars are there ftill. The afcent to it is by 124 marble fteps. ■ The occafion of the name, the church now goes by, is from an altar, faid to be built in it while it was an heathen temple, by Auguftus Caefar, to the honow of Chrift and the B. Virgin. They pretend now to fliew the very altar, and jufl: by is an in- fcription which gives us the whole hiflory of this extraordinary matter, taken, as appears, from one of the legends ; which is fuch a topping flroke of veracity and eloquence, I could not forbear tranfcribing it. Hcec ejl ilia "oenarab. ara cceli, de qua in legendd nativ. D'^ haberitur hac verba. OSiav. imp. univ. orbe Romanorum dominationi fitbjugafo, & vi£lo, fcnatui placint ut eum fro Deo colere vellent. Prudem imp.fe mcrlakm cognofceiis di-vinitatis nomen tioluitjibi ufurpare, ad Jblius tamen fenatus injlantiam fibylla'tJi prophetijfam advocate Jcire volens per ejus oracula fi in mundo tnajor ipjo unq. nafceretiir. Cum igitur in die nat. D"' fibylla in loco ifto, quce^ tunc camera imp. ejfet oraret, in meridie circ. aureus appnruit circa folem, & in medio circuli Virgo pulcherrima puerum fuum habens in brae-' chiis. 'Tunc fibylla hcec inrperatori oftendit, qui tarn infolitam vijionem admirans, audivit vocem dicentem Jibi, HJEG EST ARA COELI. Statimque hanc aram conjiruxit^ ac Chrijio &. matri ejus thura obtidit. " This is that venerable altar of heaven, concerning which, " the legend of the nativity of our Lord has thefe words. " When Ocflavius was emperor, the whole world being van- " quifbed, and made fubjedt to the dominion of the Romans, " the fenate refolved that they would worfhip him as a god. " The prudent emperor, knowing he was mortal, would " not ufurp to himfelf the name of a deity ; neverthelefs, at " the inftance of the fenate only, he fends for the fibyl the " prophetefs, defiring to be informed by her oracles, whether " there ever would in the world be born one greater than " himfelf; when therefore, on the day of our Lord's nati- " vity, the fibyl was praying in this place, which was then the " emperor's R O M E. A R A e O E L I. 245 " emperor's chamber, at mid-day there appeared a golden " circle about the fun, and in the midft of the circle, a moft " beautiful virgin having her fon in her arms. Then the •' fihyl Hiew'd thcfc things to the emperor, who wondering at " fo uniifual a vifion, heard a voice faying unto him, THIS " IS THE ALTAR OF HEAVEN. And immediately he *« built this altar, and oftcr'd inccnfe to Chriil and his mo- «' then." In lome other accounts of this ftory, (which in the main do agree with this) inftead of [/la'c ejl ara ccsli] the words are [///(.■ pucr major te cJl, & idcb ipjiim adora\. " This child is " greater than thou art, and therefore adore him;" which is tnorc confonant with what goes before. Tho' there appear no footfteps of any fuch tranfadlion as this, for many ages after the time it is fuppofed to have hap- pened ; yet there have not been wanting attempts to prove it, from fome very modern tellimonies. If any one has the curiofity to be further informed concerning it, he may confult Rkhardjlns Prctlecl. Ecchf. Pral. xi. When, above, I fpoke of the granite obelifk ereded before the church of S. Maria M^ggiore, and the infcriptions upon it, I faid I would defer fetting down one of them till I ihould come to this place [Ara Cceli.] The infcription upon the obc- lilk is this. Chrijhim Domiriim, quern Augujlus de virgine nafciturum •vivens adora-oit, feque deinceps Dcjiiinum did 'vetutt, adoro. " I adore Chriit the Lord, whom, at the time he was to be " born of a virgin, Augullus, then living,' did adore, and for- " bad himfelf from thenceforth to be called lord." This infcription to me fecms plainly grounded on the legend j.nft now recited, tho' I know not well how to reconcile the word nafciturum in it, (which imports our Saviour not to be born when Auguftus adored him) to his appearing to Auguftus in. the Blefled Virgin's arms, before the offering of incenfe mention'd in the legend : but, as neither of the infcriptions Ihew any great fkill in Latin, I have ventur'd to tranllate n^ citurwn fo as to make it fuit with this legend, which I prefume is the authority upon which it is founded. They 246 ROME. S. SYLVESTER, &c. They flill keep in this church [Ara Cceli,] and formerly r.s'd to expofe for devotion at one of the altars, a ftone, having the imprefTiun of the feet of the Angel which flood upon it on the top of the Moles Adriana, thence called Caftdlo di S. An- gelo, while S. Gregory pafs'd by in proceffion. Alexander VII. [Chigi] forbad the further expofing it, but they ftill keep it in a repofitory; and a man of learning there prefent did fairly own to us it was no other than a Votiim Veneri [a vow to Venus.] What pretty objects of adoration ! Certainly a more efiedual antidote againft popery can hardly be, than to fee the abfurd impofitions, and ridiculous pieces of trumpery, the prieftsinake \\{t of at Rome to delude the credulous people, who fwallow every thing, tho' never fo grofs. S. Sylvellcr. In the church of S. Sylvefter [Monte Cavallo] are fomegood paintings, particularly the four round ones by Domenichin, known by the prints engrav'd after them by Giacomo Freij. The Defcent of the Holy Ghoft, by Palma ; and, the Wifdom of Solomon ; a defign of Rubens. There are two fine figures in ftucco, S. John and S. Mary Magdalen; very good countenan- ces. That of 8. John is excellent ; by Algardi. s. Agnes. The church of S. Agnes in Piazza Navona, by the appear- ance of the front without, one would imagine were much lar- ger than it is, within. Atfirftview, its outfide, methinks, has fomcthing of a general refemblance to S. Paul's London, with a cupola in the middle, and two fide-turrets ; the flrudure is modern ; within, it is only a rotonda: all or moft of the body is cover'd by the cupola ; the fide-parts are facrifties, or fome other appendixes. The cupola is painted by Giro Ferri, but is not the beft of his performances, and moreover it has been da- maged. The angels under it are good, painted by Baciccio. On the v/alls below is fome good fculpture, alto relievo, in compartimcntp. There is a facrifty painted by Giro Ferri too. S.Maria del The church ofS. Maria del'Popolo has fome very gcrod Popolo. paintings ; there is one chapel [that Dell' Afiuntlone] painted, cieling and altar-piece by Han. Caracci ; the fides by Cara- vaggio. On the right hand, as you come in, are two fine chapels ; the firft [call'd that of the Pmfepe] painted by Pinturiccio. The ROME. S. M A R I A DEL P O P O L O. 247 The next is that of cardinal Cibo, adorn'd by the cavalier Fon- Um with marble all round, except where the paintings are. The altar-piece is by Carlo Marat, the B. Virgin above, and faints underneath. Two lide pieces are by Daniel Turinefe, the martyrdoms of S. Lawrence and S. Katharine. The cieling by Louigi Garzi, angels and a glory. The whole makes a noble appearance. The chapel Chigi, oppofite to this, is famous for the Mo- faic and fculpture, done after defigns of Raphael. The Mofa- ics are the celeflial figns, on the cieling of the chapel. The flatues are, Jonah and the whale at one angle, and at the oppo- fite, Elias, whole drapery is particularly fine : both thefe fi- gures are very mallerly executed by Lorenzetto Bolognefe. At the other angles arc two of cavalier Bernini. The altar-piece is of Scbaftian Piombo, the Adoration of the Shepherds. They fay the tomb of Nero was once in the place where the great altar now ftandi;, and that the devils us'd to haunt a nut- tree that grew upon it, till they were driven away by S. Pafchal, who built an altar to S. Mary in the place; and they have now an infcription behind the great altar, thus : Altare^ a PafchallW. d'roino aff.atu, ritu folemni hoc loco erec- tuni, quo damo7ies procerce niici arborl infulcntes, tranfeuntem hinc populuin dire infejlantcs, confeJUm expulit, Vrbaiu VIIL P. M. authoritate excrljiorem in locum quetn confpicis tranjlatiim fuit. A. D. 1627. die 6 Marlii. " The altar, eredled by Pafchal II. by divine infpiration, " and with folemn rites, in this place, where he drove away, *' with precipitation, devils that fate perching upon a tall nut- " tree, in a dreadful manner from thence infefting the people " that pafs'd by, was, by the authority of Urban VIII. great '* pontiff, tranflated into the more elevated place where you " now behold it. Anno Dom. 1627. the 6th of March." Here arc two fine monuments by Sanfovin, the foliage and other ornaments excellent. Juli i r the door, at the entrance into th*; church, is a death in marble, the head and arms, .md drapery, admirably cut, with a motto, which, as I remember, is riec i/iic mortiais. " Nor, even here, dead." — or fomev/iiat to that pu/pofe. Over it are lilic-worms as an emblem of the rcfurredion. 3 The 248 ROME. CAPUCHINS. Capuchins. The church of the Capuchins is not finely adorned, otherwife thrin by Ibme very good pidiures. The great altar-piece is a Madonna, at full length, by Lanfranc ; from which Carlo Marat has evidently borrowed his favourite and ofren repeated defign of the B. Virgin, with the Chrifl: in her arms, dtftroying the lerpent. The moft noted of the reft are, A S. Francis by Domenichin, and another by Mutiano, One raifed from the dead; by Andrea Sacchi. A faint wafting Incenfe to the B. V. by the fame. 4,- Saul reftor'd to light ; by Pietro da Cortona. And, The famous S. Michael, by Guido, well known by the prints > and copies which have been made a;ter it. This laft pidure feems liable to an objedion, (if an objedtion may be hinted againil: a piece fo celebrated) that tho' the devil be beaten down and aftually chain'd, the arch-angel is Hill at him with his fword ; — and yet with a countenance a^l together fereneand difpafiionate, as unvv'illing to impair his beauty with a frown. Scbaftian Conch . has thought otherwife upon the fame fubje6l : he has given his angel an indignation; and 'tis the indignation of an angel, not of a man : he feems not mov'd by private paffion, but with a juft fenfe of his errand, as obeying the commands., and vindicating the honour of the Almighty : bis countenance is beautiful, yet, fuch as befpeaks him to be in carneft : he is driving a groupe of devils down the bottomlefs pit, and purfuing his blow, having juft got them within the entrance. The duke of Richmond has the original defign in oil, of the great pidlure; which was finiflicd and intended to be an altar piece in fome church ; but it was in fignior Concha's own houfe in the piazza Navona when he fliew'd it us. S. Ifidore. Irj the church of S. Ifidore *, belonging to the Irifli convent * rhis s. Ifi- (vvhich is very near that I have been fpeaking of) are fome ex- patron ot^ cellent paintings of Carlo Marat. One intire chapel in frefco ; hufbandraen. and an altar-piece in another chapel, in oil: this is one of the s. Carlo in Madouna's lately mention'd, whofe defign feems borrow'd from ^°4[?' ^ Lanfranc, it is one of the moft genteel, agreeable piftures in t The llreet t> o ' a r ^vhe^eth^ Kome. quality take The church of S. Carlo in Corfo f Is large and fine: the Ihelvenbfm elding IS painted by Hiacintho Brandi. There is an altar-piece their coaches, on the right-hand, by Mola, very good. S. ROME. S. L O U I G I, fee. 249 S. Giacomo de' Incurabili is of an oval figure ; but the en- S. Giacomo, trance is at one end of the oval ; and in that relpeifl: has a bet- ter cffcdl than the Noviciate of the Jcfuits before- mention'd, whofc entrance is on the fide. On the left-hanci, near the entrance, is a good flatue of S. James in marble ; on the right, a fine balTo-relievo, by Monf. le Grot, of S. Francis de Paula [founder of the Minims order] recommending fick perfons to the B. \^irgin, whofc miraculous pidture is plac'd above, in a fpacc left for it, within tlie compafs of the baflb- relievo, and fupportcd by angels. In the church of S. Louigi dei Francefi [the French church S- Louir;;. of S. Lewis] the great altar-piece, an afi'umption, is painted by Giacomo Baffan, his greatclf and bed: flyle. The counte- nances are good, and the ordonnance of the whole is grand. There is a fide-chapcl, whofe altar-piece is Raphael's S. Cascilia [of Bologna] finely copied by Guido. The cieling, and fides are painted by Domenichin in frefco. On the top of the vault is S. Concilia in the air, fupportcd by angels : on one fideof the vault S. Cacciliais brought before a magiilrate, and refufes to adore an image of Jupiter, which is there reprefent'd : the altar is in the middle, and the Popa", leading for facri- fices, a bull and a ram.^ The averfion of the faint is admi- rably exprefs'd; and fo is the earneftnefs of the judge, who points towards the idol ; as likev^'ife the fear of a boy, who bears a little cafket, and the concern of another figure that flands by. On the other fide of the vault is S. Caccilia and her hufbmd, crown'd with garlands by an angel. For, tho' fhe was a virgin martyr, flie was married, and her hufband was martyr'd with her. Upon the walls, on one fide, S. Cscilia is dirtiibuting her goods in charity : on the other fide, llie lies a dying : [we muit fuppofe her head to have been cut off three deys before, according to the florv told above,] her neck bleed- * J^" .^J?'* ing, a pope* giving his benediaion ; with other figures. A]lu;b.m" I. ac- thefe are painted bv Domenichin in frefco, in a great ftyle, and«^o,''J''"'St°i*'= a fine body of colour. The church of S. Gregory, belonging to the hermits of Ca- S. Grcgrry. maldoli, has an oratory belonging to it : where, in the Tri- buna over the altar, is a chorus of angels, and the Padre Etcrno, molt majellickj the countenance, hair, and beard very K k hii'.', 2^ R O Pvt E. S. G I R O L A M O. fine, and the drapery llung round in a noble manner j 'ris by Guide in frefco. In the chapel of S. Andrew, belonging to this convent, are two famous pidlures of that faint, fcourg'd before Nero in one» and going to be crucify 'd in the other : the former by Dome- nichin, the latter by Guido. The altar-piece, reprefenting the B.- Virgin, 6cc. is by Pomerancio. In another chapel is a S. Gregory kneeling, fupported by angels, an excellent performance of Hanibal Caracci : and the pidure of a Madonna, that was carried in proceffion by S. Gre- gory in the time of the plague, when the angel appear'd (as already mention'd) on the Moles Adriana : over againfl; it that flory is painted. In another chapel, or hall, is a pidlure, the; flory whereof is defcribed there in thefe two lines. Bis fenos hie Grcgorius pafcebat egenos, Angelus & decimus tertius accubuit. While Gregory here twelve hungry poor did feaft. An angel came, and made the thirteenth gueft. S. Girolamo. In the church of S. Girolamo della Carita is a noted pidure- of Domenichin, the communion of St. Jerom ; he is receiving- the eucharifr juft before his death. His body feems perfedlly macerated, and worn out with old age and penances, fo that the ikin fcarce covers the bones j he is fo feeble that he is forc- ed to be fupported upon his knees, and appears as julT: going to expire. They tell a ftory in Rome relating to this picflure, which is this J Domenichin, after having been abfent from Rome fome time, coming into this church, perhaps to take a view of his own celebrated performance, found a painter at work copying^ it ; and looking over him, pointed out fome particulars, which- he told him he thought might be mended. The copyer, wha poffibly might be one of fome account, not knowing who it- was that directed him, rofe up in a fort of difdain, put the pencils into his hand, and defir'd him to mend it bimfelf; Domenichin, who was remarkable for the mildnefs of his tem- per, filently accepted the offer, turned his back to the original.; and. ROME. S. P I E T R O M O N T O R I O. 25 r and not only fnended the faults he bad nam'd, but ran over all the whole pi(fl:ure, with a wonderful facility and freedom. The other needed not now be told who Domcnicjiin was; nor was he wanting in making fuitable acknowledgments for the fpcci- men of his ikill, and the uncxpeded civility of his behavi- our. This is one of the three piftures efteem'd the mofl: capital in Rome, that are not of Raphael's painting. The two others are, the S. Romoaldo, by Andrea Sacchi, in the church dedi- cated to that Saint ; which is indeed an admirable pidure ; and, the defcent from the crofs, by Daniel da Vol terra, in the church of the French Minims at Trinita del Monte [Pincio.J The defign of this is very well known by the feveral prints that are extant of it. There are very good prints of the others likewife. The church of the Madonna della Pace has the remains of La Pace, fome admirable paintings by Raphael; the prophets, and fibyls; but they are very much damaged, and moil of them at fuch a height, that one cannot examine them as one would wifh. Tiiere is a father in the convent adjoining [Padre Ramelli] that is efleem'd to limn * the beftof any body in Rome; but he ♦inwatcrco- is aged, and his eyes begin to fail ; fo that his latter works are °^^^' not fo delicate as thofe he did formerly. The moll capital and mofl highly celebrated pidlure in all s. Pietro the Roman churches, is the Transfiguration, by Raphael, in the ^^°°^^^'°- church of S. Pietro Montorio : the defign of it is fo well Jcnown * by the prints, particularly that of fir Nich. Dorigny, .that I need fay nothing of it. As to the execution, tho' fu large a pidlure, 'tis highly finilh'd, and the drawing part throughout tnoil admirable. The colouring feems to have been clung'd, for the Ihadows are become a little blackilh ; but the other parts are very mellow. The expreflion in the figures below the mount is very ftrong, as that of thofe above, particularly of the Chrift, is mofl: delicate : the whole affords an inex- preHible pleafure, notwithftanding the great difadvantage of a • Since I wrote this, there has been an old and fine copy of this pi(f^ure imported into England ; I fuppofe, it to be the fame I faw at Rome in the houfe of Sign. Giofeppe Chiari, who affirm'd tome that it was the hand ofGiulio Romano: Iti: in the pofleflion <jf Sir Tho. Seabright Bart. K k 2 very Loreci 252 ROME. TEMP. FORTUNi^VIRILIS, very bad light : the bed you have is Jufl: oppofite to it, and that only thro' the door at the lower end of the church. The countenance of him that holds the child that is to be exorcis'd, feemstohave been taken from one of the apoftles of Leonardo da Vinci, in his reprefcntation of the laft fupper, at Milan y where we faw his original drawings of the heads for that, and were told that Raphael had certainly copied them all. As this I have been fpeaking of is allow'd to be the moft capital pidlure, fo I think as plcafing a piece of fculpture as i-s in any of the churches, is a ftatue of Flamingo, in the church S. Maria ili of S. Maria di Loreto, or de i Fornari (for it belongs to the bakers*) jufl; by Trajan's pillar. I took it for a S. Katha- rine, by fome of the infignia, but they call it the Carta Su- li'iuna, I know not why, nor could be inform'd. It is a fland- ing figure, all cloath'd, with a palm-branch in one hand; at her feet, under a corner of the drapery, is fomewhat like a, crown turn'd upfide down. This ftatue pleas'd me beyond the celebrated one of S. Bi- biana (already mention'd) it has more of the air of the antique, and isgenteeler in all refpetfts. By the prints that are of each in Rofli's book of ftatues, one would be apt indeed to be of the contrary opinion. 'Tis pity but both of them had been engrav'd by the fame hand; lir Nicholas Dorigny, I think, did theS. Bibiana. I believe the reader will by this time have had enough of churches : I (hall now only mention a few of the old heathen temples, fome of which (befides thofe already fpoke of) have been turn'd into chriftlan churches. Templum The Temp'ium Fortune? Virilis is an oblong, having a por- fortunsViri- tico of Ionic pillars fluted, before the entrance ; and the lame order is continued along the fides, but there is only one half of each pillar that projects from the wall. The famous temple of Minerva at Athens was built a good deal in the lame man- • Several trades and profcflions, as this of the bakers, the painters,. &c. and fevera! nations, as the French, Spaniards, &c. have churches, which are as it were appro- priated to futh trade or nation, ereiicd (as 1 take it) .it thsir own expcnce or pro- ner -,, ROME. B O C C A D E L L A V E R I T A. X53 ;icr; but that, befidts the portico at the end, had a colonnade continued along the fides. The ornaments within this temple arc all modern. It now belongs to the Armenians, and is cal- led Santa Maria vEgyptiaca. There is a little chapel within it, in the form of Chrift's fcpulchre. The temple of Vefta, not far off it, near the Tiber, is a ro- Ttnip.Vtn.-e. tonda furrounded by twenty Corinthian pillars fluted. The Templum Pudicitiie Patricias is a patch'd up old Temp. Pudi- temple, now turn'd into a chriftian church, by the name of t^'iia^l'-xr'ti;*'. iJ. Maria Cofmedin, or in Schola Grajca. There are in it an antique Mofiic pavement, and antique pillars of feveral or- ders. At one end of a portico, before you come into the church, is what they call the Bocca della Verita, by which go(.j3(jpj,, name the place is generally known. It is a vafl platter- face baf- VcritL fo relievo, on a round ftone, like a miIl-fl:onc, the eyes, nof- trils, and mouth perforated : it is faid by fome to reprefent Jupiter Hammon, and to have been placed anciently in his tem- ple. There was a great veneration paid to it by the fuperflitioii of thofe times, and the tithe of their goods offer'd to it; as iignor Ficaroni faid : who further added, that one of their iblemnell purgations, was by putting their hands into its mouth, where they underwent a fort of fire ordeal ; tho' tlie fecret was kept from the people If the party that would clear himfelf was known to be guilty, or that it was refolv'd he fliou'd appear fo, the priefts, conceal'd behind, were ready with a hot iron, and burnt his fingers, when put into the mouth ; the people without, took the roaring as a proof of his guilt, and afcrib'd all the difcovery to the facred image, little dreaming of the trick the priefi: was playing behind it. When this account was given us, a good Catholick prefent, oblerv'd upon the occafion, / petri di qnci tempi erano brkconi, comme fmo alcuni de i riojiri. " The. priefts of " thofe times were trickfters, and lome of ours are no bet- " ter." I have found fince, in Fabretti, that an account fomewhat to this purpofe was generally given of this matter ; but he re- jedls it with difdain, and lays it is no other than a reprefen- tation of the Nile, qui cloaca aVicui operiendfe infcrviret, & per oculorum, oris, nariumque foramina infuentcs aquas re- citer ct.\. 551 R O M E. T E M P L E O F S A T U R N, &c. ciperet ; " which was to ferve for a cover to fome common- ** fewer, and to receive the waters, which ran into it, thro' the " holes of the eyes, mouth, and noRrils. [Col. Trajan. Cap, 9.] And that the excrefcencies rifing out of the forehead, which had been by others taken for the horns of Jupiter Hammon, are nothing but the claws, or arms of a crab-filh, [brachia cancn]. And that thefe are a mark of its reprefenting the Nile, he gathers from Pliny, quia ejiifdevi augmaituiit a fol- Jlitio aftho & folc cancnnn occupante incipit ; " Becaufe the " fwelling of that river begins at the fummer folftice, when " the fun is entring into Cancer." Another mark he obferves in this and other faces of this kind, are the fcales ffquama] on the cheek. The \\\i& f qua nice he takes notice of in whole fi- gures of Tritons, &c. on the breaft, and about the belly. And thefe marks he has obferv'd to be commune Id genus deajiris dif- cerniculum, " The common diftinguifhing mark of thofe kind " of underling deities." Thefe obfervations of his give a confi- derable light to figures of this kind, which before his time do not appear to have been fo well underftood. Temple of The Temple of Saturn, which was alfo the cerarium pub- Saturn. Ucum [the public treafury] in the Campo Vaccino, is now the church of S. Adrian. The brazen gates from the old temple are now the principal ones of the church of S. John Lateran, as has been above obferv'd. InZinuf '^'^^ temple of Antoninus and Fauftina, ereded by Marcus and Fauilina. Aurelius, to the honour of his father and Mother-in-law, is now the church of S. Lorenzo in Miranda. It is well known they deify 'd their emperors after their death, [when they had given the lafl: and fulleft proof that they were mere men] and the apothcofis, or confecration, of this emperor, is now to be feen as dcfcrib'd in a haffo-relievo, on the pedertal of the Colonna Citoria. There is a print of it in Rofii's edition of the Antonine pillar. The outer portico of this temple now remains ; and the infcription on the frieze, D. ANTONINO • ET • D . FAVSTINAE • EX • S • C • The altar-piece within the church is p.iinted by Pietro da Cortona. Romulus"'^ ' '^'^^ temple of Romulus and Remus is juft by ir, [in the Herald. '''"" Campo \^accino] now the church of S. Cormus and S. Da- rn iajius- ROME. T E M P L E O F P E A C E. 255 riianus. They take care to keep a couple of faints now, to aiifwcr a couple of gods before. The old bia2en gates are Hill remaining. Wlicn they were nt work, making fome alterations in this temple, thuy found a large plan of old Rome, cut in marble, and fix'd in one of the walls, as confccrated to the founders of ihe city. This plan is fuppofed to have been fix'd there by the dire(3:ion of Septimius Severus, who repair'd this tem- ple. It is now to be kai in feveral pieces, not regularly put together, in the Farncfe palace on one of the floors : thty were brought thither in the reign of Paul III. It is a wonder no greater care is taken of fo fingular a curiofity. They did tal'c indeed, while we were there, of an intention to have 'em put together. There is a defcription of them publifli'd by Bellori, which is inferted in Gra-vius's Thefaurus. Flaminius V^acca, who fays he faw thefe marbles at their firft difcovery, acquaints us with the p;irticular place and man- ner of their fituation ; that it was at the back of the church I have mention'd, and that they ferv'd as the incruftation ol" its wall. His account is publilli'd in the year 1594, and his words are theie : Mi ricor(/(? haver •vediito cavare, didro alia cJiiefa di S. S. Cop/10 e Damiano, e vi fu trovata la pianta di Roma projilata in maniio ; dttta pianta Jlriiva per incroftatura del muro : certa coja e, die detto tempio fufje edijicato ad honore di Romolo e Renw, edificatori di Roma, C al prefentc delta pianta Ji trova nell' antiquario del cardinak Farnefe. Not far from this, ftood the Temple of Peace; the grcateft Temple ot part of it lies in ruin?. What now appears, fcems to be one ^'"'"'^' iide of what the ancient temple was, and as it were a fedlion of it. It confifts of three great arches, or vaults; there are many prints of it extant. It was built by Vefpafian, and was ellecm'd the hneft temple of old Rome. Here were lodg'd the fpoils that were brought from t!ie temple of Jerufalem : and it abounded afterwards with an infinity of other riches. This temple, as we are told by Joftphus, who was in Rome at that time, was built immediately after the taking of Jeru- £jlem, when the Roman empire had put an end to all their wars, and enjoy'd peace on every fide. And according to him, the fpoils were firft brought to the Temple of Jupiter Feretrius [to «56 UOME. TEMP. OF JUPITER STATOR. [fo called a ferendis Spoliis] now Ara Ca3li, and afterwards re- ino\ 'd to the Temple of Peace, then newly eredled, and depo- fited there. The temple is faid to have been near 200 foot in breadth and 300 in length, and lin'd throughout on the infide •with brafs-plates gilt. The vaults of it are hollowed in com- partiments, fomewhat after the manner of the Pantheon. One of its noble pillars now ftands before the church of S. Maria Maggiore, as is above-mention'd : I do not know of any other of them that remains intire. There is a groupe of figures at the Farnefe palace, which was cut out of the lower part of one of them. Fis and Sera- Further on, towards the amphitheatre, are remains of the P"" ancient temples of the Sun and Moon, [or Ifis and Serapis] v/ithin the convent of S. Maria Nuova. There appears no- thing of them now, but a fort of tribune, or fedtions of cu- pola's wrought within, in compartiments, and thefe likewile are much after the manner of the Pantheon. jupiterStator. At the Other end of the Campo Vaccino towards the Capi- tol, are the fmall, but noble remains of the Temple of Jupiter Stator, they are only three Corinthian pillars, with their enta- ^ blature. Thefe they call the grammar of the architeds. The has befallen ^ops of the Capitals are become roundifli, by their corners be- many of the ing [iroke ofF*, and the whole does not feem likely to ftand old capitals in ,„, „i i„ ,„ other places, much longer. C ncord Hard by thefe is part of the portico of the Temple of Con- cord : the architrave and frieze in this are both thrown into one. Juft by it are three noble pillars, which feem to have been the angle of a portico to a temple, v.'ith part of their enta- blature. They are fo far buried by the ruins of the old Capi- tol, which flood a little higher, that fcarce half of them is above ground, and what is lo, is almoft hid by trees. Some call thefe the remains of the Temple of Jupiter Tonans, built by Auguflus CjEfar, upon his having had a nar- row efcapc from a ftroke of lightning attended with great claps of thunder. Others, who differ from them, do not yet »fay what thefe ruins originally were. If that opiniofi be not allow'd^, why may we not fuppofe thofe pillars to have been a part R O M E. D I V U S J U L I U S. 257 part of the temple of Julius Cjcfar [Divus Julius] which ^'v"' J"''"' according to Tacitus's account of the death of Galba, was certainly hereabouts. Galba was killed near the lake of Curtius, in the Forum Boarium. T. Vinnius, who came with him out of the palace, and was by him when he fell, fled to the temple of Divus Julius, and was there kill'd likewifc; [Titum inde Vinnium vivaferc ------ ante cedeni Divi Jul it jdciiit.'] Now fome antiquaries, upon a fuppolition that he would of courfc fly tofuch temple as was neareft to the lake of Curtius, where Galba fell, and it being manifell that the neareft temple mufl: have been that whereof the three curious pillars before- mention'd were part, conclude that they are remains of the tem- ple of Divus Julius, and are by miftake reckon'd to have be- long'd to that of Jupiter Stator, tho' they conlhntly go by the name of it : but, a hundred accidents might happen, in fucli a tumult, to prevent his getting to the very next temple; and this I am fpcaking of is fo very little further ofl^, that 'tis as likely he might make this his afylum ; and then there will- be no occafion to change the old rcceiv'd name of the other, to fupport fuch a fancy, nor to fearch farther for the temple of Divus Julius. There is indeed a noble fcene of antiquities all about this Campo Vaccino, which was itfelf the old Via Sacra, mention'd by Horace \lbam forte Via Sacra, (Sec] Part of the back of the old Capitol is at one end, and the arch of Septimius Se- verus juft below that : all thefe laft mention'd temples (be- ginning with that of Saturn) are on each fide of it; the arch of Titus at the other end : Juft: by that is the Palatime Mount, with the remains of fcveral palaces which were in the neigh- bourhood of the palace of the Augulli : a very little way beyond the arch of Titus is the arch of Conftantine on one hand, and the amphitheatre of Vefpafian on the other; all thefe lying very near together. The Temple of Minerva (tho' now a chriftian church) hasTc-npie of not quite loft its old name. The church is rais'd upon the •^'"''^' ruins of the temple, and is now call'd S. Maria fopra Miner- va. In this church is an adnrvirable llatue of our Saviour in white marbk, by Mich. Angelo and juft within one of the L 1 gates 25^ R O iM E, T E M p. OF M I N E R V A. gates is a fine old baflb-relievo of a tnan grappling with a lion, probably an ornament of the ancient temple. There is in the gallery of the prince Giuftiniani, a ftatue of Minerva, which they aver to be the fame that was worihip- ped in this temple. In the Forum Nervse are what Ficaroni called the remains of another temple of this goddefs, which was built by Domitian. They confift of two pillars of the Corinthian order, fluted, with their entablature; and the wall they project trom. The frieze is all along adorn'd with figures in mezo- relievo, expreffing Paliadis artes, the affair of houfewifery, as fpinning, wea- ving, &c. Some of thefe are much decay'd, but others very frefh. The prints of all of them, engrav'd by Pietro Santo Bar- toli, are publifh'd in the Admiranda. An old flatue of Pallas flill remains, flanding over this fine frieze. Near this are what were fliew'd to us for the remain*! of the palace of the emperor Nerva, from whom the Forum took its name, three moft noble pillars of marble, Corinthian, flu- ted, with part of their entablature : but thefe are (if I miftake not) what fome call the remains of the temple of Mars Ultor. The accounts that are given of the former grandeur and beauty of this Forum, as well as that of Trajan, is ftupendous. And tho' the pleafure of feeing what remains of them be very great, the grief to hear what is lofl: is not lefs. ■ They fay it was one of S. Auguftine's wifhes to have feen Rome in its glory ; and 'tis a widi, however fruitlefs, that I be- lieve none can forbear entertaining that fees Rome now, — in a much further remove from its ancient glory, than it was in that father's time. Near the church of Santa Croce, are fome remains of a temple of Venus and Cupid, but very ruinous. Minerva In a vineyard not far from this, is a beautiful ruin of the tem- Mcuica. pie of Minerva Mcdica, a decagon. The door-place takes up one of the fides; the oppofite fide is tumbled down. There was a nich in it when {landing, as there is now in every one of the eight other fides which remain, befidcs that in which the door is. And thur, the number of niches being nine, it is fuppofed that they were filled with the ftatues of the nine mufes. Over each of the niches is a window. There is now a fountain in J'ai/. ^jS. ,^/////^' ^y ////// r/vw ///r///r^!. Jif,/. -yrS. -tj ROME. TEMP. OF F O R T U N !• . 259 in the middle, in all probability made fincc the ground about it was turn'd into a vineyard. Without the city, is theTemplum Fortuna?, which (lands in '^'"^ nip- Ft- a wiy anticntly call'd Via ad Gabios. It is a rotonda; not open'""^' at the top as the Pantlieon, but has round windows at a confi- derable height in the wall, near the i'pring of the vault. There is a circular vault beneath, which goes round a thick Hjrt of pil- lar. The like fort of vault we fee under the Palazzo dei Am- baftiadori, or Villa Publica, which was a pahce for the re- ception and entertainment of aniUafl'.dors from foreign ftate?, they not being allow'd to enter the city. In the inner part of the arch, over the door into this temple, we obfery'd in fome parts where the wall was bioken, that inftead of llones, they had madi; ufe of empty pots, laid on their fides, wiih mortar round them, probably to make the work lefs heavy ; as pumice-ftones are, for the like reafon ufed, in the vaults of other old build- ings: as is to be leen in the baths of Caracalb, and other places. Having now gone thro' what occurr'd as molt remarkable in the principal modern churches, and the remains of fome of the ancient temples; I proceed to add, to what I havefaid in gene- ral of the palaces, fome particulars of what I obftrv'd in them. The palace of the Vatican, for the vaftnefs of its fize, forvaiicank its being the principal feat of the holy pontiff, and above all, for that noble library, and the glorious paintings of Raphael, claims the firfl place ) but if you were to regard uniformity, re- gularity, and a graceful approach, or entrance, I do not know whether it ought not to ftand in the laft. It is a vafl: mafs of building put together at feveral times, by feveral popes; — the firft having been done, as they fay, by pope Symmachus toward the latter end of the fecond century. Some of the courts are really fine and noble, with rows of porticoes one above an- other, very magnificent ; but the whole looks very heavy, and is a great annoyance to the profpe(fl of S. Peter's church, juft by which it Itands, as I had often thought by the prints, be- fore 1 had feen the pile itfelf, and was much confirmed in that thought when I did fee it. T\\q guardarobbe, the officers who have the care of the furniture, and flievv you the apartments, tell you that there are above 12000 rooms in that palace ; and for your faiisfadlion they refer you to a model of the whole in L 1 2 wood. 26o ROME. VATICAN. wood, which is kept in one of the upper chambers, and may be taken afunder, ib as to come at the leffer rooms that lie in the body of it. But whoever would take the pains to count them all, would pay dear enough (I think) for his curiofity. Befides the noted paintings of Raphael in this palace, there are a great many others, and by good mafters, in the other nu- merous apartments there. A few of the principal I will name, in the order they were {hew'd me. In the Camera della Spogliatura, the cieling is painted in frefco [the Defcent of the Holy Ghoft] by Girolamo Mutiano. The Sa/a Regia [Royal Hall] has feveral large paintings in frefco ; the Pope condemning Herefy, with S. Peter and S. Paul in the Air, and feveral other figures, by Geo. Vafari. He has written his name and country at a corner of the piece, in Greek, for what reafon, I know not. lEoprios otasafios •He came APtTiNOS * EnoiEi- There are other piftures of the fame from Arezzo. j^^j^gj.^ and particularly three that reprefent the circumftances relating to the afl'aflination of admiral Coligni in the maffa- cre at Paris. That the memory of fo glorious an adion might not be forgot. Pope Gregory XIIJ. caufed a medal to be ftruck upon the occalion, with thefe words, Vgonottorum ptrages [the flaughter of the Hugonots] on the reverfe : the medal is publicly fold in Rome at this time. There are feve- ral other paintings in the fame hall by Zuccaro, Salviati, and other mafters. In the Capelle Siftina and Paolina, are feveral paintings of Mich. Angelo. In the Siftina, as foon as you come in, you fee in front at the furtlier end that great and fo much noted performance of his,. The Laft Judgment. The defign of this famous piece, and the- capricious fancies that are in fome parts of it, are fo univerfally known by the prints, and the accounts of it in feveral authors,, that I need fay nothing of that matter. The execution is very bold and ftrong, but is hard in the out-line, as are the works of moft of the Florentine maflers. The excellive ftrrong expreffion of the mufcles even in the women, and the youngeft figures, fhew rather an oifentation of his knowledge of the fituation and movement of thofe mufcles, than a juft thought of what, was altogether fit to be done in fuch fubjedls ; but he feem'd indu- ftriausv- R O M E. V A T I C A K. 261. ftrlous in all his works, that the world fliould know he was an anatomifl: ; and 'tis perhaps as learned a piece, in that relpedt, as there is in the world. The colouring feems never to have been very heautitul (tho' ibmewhat mud: be allow'd for age) and the want of large inaiTcs of light and fhadow, makes the whole lefs aijreeable, tlio' the particular figures are exceeding mafterly. Some of the nudities have been cover'd, by order of one of the popes, by Daniel da Volierra, as 'tis faid : he has given S. Katharine a green drapery, who was before entirely naked. The Charon and fome other extravagances (which fure he had not brought in at all, had not fuch been the darlings of his genius) he has hicceeded in wonderfully ; as he has in fome other figures hurried downwards by devils in Aich odd poftures, as are apt rather to produce laughter than fuch fenti- ments as Ihould aiile from a picfture of that fubjedl. With all this, if we confider the vaft variety in fuch an infinity of figures, and the very great and maltcrly expreflion in them (with allowance for the oddncis of fome of the thoughts, which was pretty much the way of thofc days, as is to be fcen in the cupola at Florence by Zurcaro, and elfewhere) it mud certainly be efteem'd a moft grand, and amazing performance. Upon the cieling of this chapel arc alio painted by the fame mailer the Prophets, the Sibyls, and other fubjeds. On the walls are painted, by Pietro Perugino, the hiflory of tlie Old Tcflament on one fide, and that uf the New on the other. At the end, over the entrance, is the Afcenlion of Chrill, and Angels deftroying the feven mortal fins ; by Mattea di Leccia. The Capella Paolina was the architeifture of Antonio San- gallo. This chapel has two paintings of Mich. Angelo, the crucifixion of S. Peter, and the converfion of S. Paul. The cieling is painted by Federico Zuccaro. The Sala Clementina is lined with marble, inlaid, and' painted in the other parts by Carolino di Borgo S. Sepulchro : he has drawn himfelf and his wife, in one part. The chief of what ell'e he has painted there is architedure, which is ex- ceeding well. At one corner is a fort of brazen hoop in pefpcdli'e; for whafpurpole, I could not learn : which, tho' fc inconfiderable a thing in itlllf, is reprcfented v. ith I'uch ex- adnefs, that it affords a coniiderablc amulemcnt, by deceiving- the a6a R O M E. V A T I C A N. tlie eye in a very extraordinary manner. The Capella Secret* is painted by Romanelli. In the Sala di Predicatione is a piece of Moies breaking the tables, very boldly painted, faid to be of Moki — and, a Na- tivity begun by him, but fini(h'd by Louigi Garza. In the Galaretta is a hiltory of the Pope and Charles the Fifth, painted by Romanelli. Wliat they call the Bible of Raphael is almoft univerfally known, being difpers'd all over Europe. The originals of thefe prints are painted all along the upper part of an open portico, upon the cieling and fides of each divifion. Thefe were all defign'd by Raphael, tho' but very few of them executed by himfelf. The Eve in the Creation is generally agreed to be of his hand; and a mod beautiful hgure it is. The Finding of Moks is another j in which, befides the ad- mirable genteel drawing, there are lovely tinfts of colouring : and the colours in the feveral draperies, in Pharaoh's daughter and her attendants, do moll: agreeably fet off one another. The Laft Supper, and fome others, are faid to be of his hand too ; but of thefe there is no doubt. The reft of them were painted by his principal difciples ; and are for the moft part very finely done. The flat wall at the back of this portico, and of that which returns from it, and goes along another fide of the fame court, is moft elaborately painted in grotefque figures, moft of them by Giovanni da Udena ; they are exceeding neat, and very fine in that kind. We are now come to thofe noble apartments, generally called the Apartments of Raphael : all the principal paintings in them having been either done by his hand, or at leaft de- fign'd by him. I fliall not pretend to give any particular def- cription of thefe admirable performances ; 'twould be hat aBum agere; they have been fo largely and fully defcrib'd by Bellori and others formerly, and by Mr. Richardfon of late, that to thefe I refer the reader. I fhall only mention the fubjeifls of them in Ihort, as they are ufually call'd, that the reader may have them more at one view than they are in the larger accounts above-mention'd. 5 The ROME. VATICAN. The firft and largeft of the rooms is what they call the SaJa iii Conjlantino, [the Hall of Conftantine] and fometimcs di Giiilio Romano ; becaufe, tho' the defigns for this room were made by Raphael, they were painted after his death by Giulio, tho' not without the affillance of fome others. The fubjeds of the paintings in this hall are, 1. Conftantine haranguing his army, and the Crofs appear- ing in the air. 2. The Battle of the fame Emperor with Maxentius, at the Pons Milvius, a mpft grand and amazing performance. 3. His being baptiz'd by Pope Sylvefter. 4. His Donation of Rome, &:c. to the fame Pope. The donation is made by the emperor on his knees, to the Pope fitting. Beyond this are three other rooms : the principal paintings in which were both defign'd and executed by Raphael himfelf. In the hrft of ihefc is, 1. Attila, king of the Hunns, on his march with his army to fack Rome, but diverted by the prayers of S. Leo the Firft, the then Pope, and by the terrifying appearance of S. Peter and S. Paul in the air. 2. Heliodorus drove out of the temple of Jerufakm. This is etch'd by Carlo Marat. 3. Peter deliver'd out of prifon by the angel. There is fuch a civaro ojhiro [light and fhade] in this, as I never faw elte- where, added to the inimitable beautv of the defign. The fourth is what they call the Corpus Domini, being a re- prefentation of the miracle which gave occafion to the annual feaft of that name, en which day they have their proct'J/io ge- neralijjima, in memory of it : 'tis cf the unbelieving priclt at- rcadv mention'd, page 217, from whofe fingers the water he Was confecrating Hipt out all bloody; for fo the ftory was given in that place. In this reprefentation the circumHiance is varied ; the wafer remains between his fingers ; and drops of blood, jffuirvg from it, fall in the form of a crofs. — A rare expedient to enforce the doiflrine of tranfubftantiation ! In the next chan-\i^er is, I. What they commonly call the Difpute of the Dc dors, concerning the Holy Sacrament, there being a reprcfi:ntation cf 264 R O M E. V A T I C A N. of the hofl, and of feveral perfons about it, feeming to be In- gaged in difputation. 2. The School of Athens. 3. The Parnaffus. The defigns of thefe two are engrav'd by Marc Antonio ; , but the kft with confiderable variations from the painting. 4. Pope Gregory IX. (though the face of Juhus 11. is given inftead of his) and Juflinian Emperor delivering the digefls and other books of the law. Above are reprefented Pru- dence, Temperance, Sec. In the laft of thefe chambers is, 1 . The Incendio del B or go ; a Fire in that Part of Rome call'd the Borgo di S. Pietro, extinguifh'd by Pope Leo IV. making the lign of the crofs, and giving the benedidion. 2. The Juftification af Pope Leo III. from fome crimes laid -to his charge by the Senate and People of Rome, in a complaint prefented to Charles the Great, then King of France, foon after Emperor: where the bifhops aflembled, by Charles's order, for the trial, declared that the Pope could not be tried by any judi- cature upon earth but his own ; and he being call'd upon there- fore to judge himfelf, he laid his hand on the Evangelifts, lying open upon the altar,' and pronounced himfelf innocent : and they all look'd upon him as fairly acquitted. There is, 3. That Pope's crowning the fame Charles the Great, Empe- ror of the Romans; which was the beginning of the prefent Roman empire, that is, the empire of Germany. 4. The Vidlory of Leo IV. over the Saracens. In the fame chamber (as I remember, or one adjoining) is ■what they call I'ljiorid di Pipino : there is wrote at the bottom of it an account of Pepin's making an oblation of the exarchate of Ravenna and other things to the church; Pipinus pins pri- ffius a'lUplificajidce ecclefice viam aperidt exarcatu Ravennate, & aliis plurimis ei oblatis. This being decay 'd, was reflor'd by Gaudentio Milanefe. In the Hall of Conftantine, near the further corner, at one end of the battle, is a moft admirable figure of Juftice, painted by Raphael's own hand, and the only thing he liv'd to paint in that hall. It has the perfection of colouring, as well as all other excellencies. On the cieling of the hall is painted the inner R O M E. V A T I C A N. 265 Inner peiTpcdliive of a building with a crucifix in the middle, and an idol broken to pieces lying under it. In the chamber where is the fine pidtnre I before-mention'd, of the Deliverance of S. Peter out of prifon, are painted on the cieling, Jacob's Ladder. Mofes and the Burning Bufli. Abraham offering Ilaac ; and, Nc-ah jult come out of the Ark, kneeling before the Pildrc £rir«o [Eternal Father j who is rcprefented as fupported in the air by angels. Thefe arc not forefliorten'd, as is ufual in figures upon ciel- ings, but painted in the fame manner as if they had been done upon an upright \* all. The borders at the bottom under the great pidures, are paint- ed in chiaro ofcuro, mod of them by Polydore. Someof thefc being decay'd, were renewed by Carlo Alarat. There is one thing in the Parnafllis which looks a little odd, and has frequently been found fault with. Inftead of the harp, his ufual inflrument, Apollo is playing upon a violin.—- But Raphael had his authority for this from the antients. There is now to be feen in the Villa Montalta an antique ftatue of Apollo playing on the very fame inllrument, and a fmali c ne of the fame in the great duke's gallery: but Marc. Antonio, in his print of the Parnaflus, has put a harp in the Apollo's hand : the print differs too from the pifture in feveral other particulars. Raphael himfclf often varied his defign of the fame fubjecl; as in that of the famous S. Concilia at Bologna, and others. In thefe admirable paintings there is no great gaiety or gaw dinefs of colouring to allure the eye, but there arc things of much greater confequence, the noble ftyle of drawing, the grandeur of the ideas, the dignity of the charadtecs, and the fublimity of exprelTion, raifc fuch fentiments in the mind, as one would think the eye could hanily tranfmit to it: and as a certain fign of fuperior excellency, the more they are feen, and the more they are confuler'd, the greater is the pleafure and the admiration. Mm This 26^ R O M E. V A T I C A K. This is well exemplified iir a ftory they tell of the two Carlo's, Maratti and Cignani, men very well known by their own per'ormances ; which is this. When the latter was newly come to Rome, the other aili'd him, whether he had been in the Vatican, and how he lik'd the paintings there : Very well, fays Cignani, — fono belle cofe. " They are good pretty things." Pray lieur Carlo, (fays Marat) next time you go thither, do me the favour to make me a drawing after fuch a figure, (de- fcribing it) in the Incendio del Borgo ; I have occafion for it, but can't conveniently go mv felf to do it.- ^Cignani went to woik, and after two or three elfays he fmok'd oat the matter, tore his- paper, and came back to Marat with a confeffion, that Ra- phael was an inimitable mafter. In another room in the Vatican, we faw a fine pidfure of Domenichini, an Ecce Homo, when Pilate brought forth our Saviour to the multitude ; there is a very extraordinary expref- fion of flouting and mockery i-n the countenance of him that offers the reed. In another arc tliree fine cartoons, one is of Raphael: 'tia the Dzemoniac brought to be exorcis'd, as reprefented in the lower part of the Transfiguration. It is fince come into the pof- feffion of Cardinal Albani, upon his uncle's death. The other two are of Carlo Maratti, and Domenichin ; the former, a nativity; the other is a friar, and another figure. Another room (I think 'tis a chapel) has its cieling painted by Guidoi the Transfiguration j the Afcenfion ; and the De- fcent of the Holy Gholt. There is a finall chapel painted by Federic Zuccharo : from this chapel there is a view thro' a long gallery to a fountain which is on a terrace at the further end, five hundred ordinary paces in length, as they told us; for I did not pace it: I found employment enough in obferving the ornaments of the fevcral parts of it which are various in each: and the additions to the length of it were made at feveral times, io that the height and breadth are no way proportionable to fo vafc a length ; and per^ haps to redrcfs the ill confequence of this, they have made fu(.h diitindtions between the fevcral parts, that iho' they are ail in one line, they are as two or three feveral galleries. The ROME. VATICAN. 267 The ornaments of ftucco gilt, in the iirft part, withgrotcfquc and other figures, Ihcw very rich. Along the walls are painied large geographical defcriptions, mention'd before, of the fevcral ftatcs and provinces of Italy, and fomc other places : with landikapes by Paul Brill and other inafters : and along the cieling are feveral hiflories, and fic- tions painted in compartiments : one of them is an inftanceof their charitable difpofitioii ; T/ieodoricits rex in infermim pro- jicitur, as fays the infcription about it in cxprcfs words, [king Thcodoric is thrown into hell. J The other parts of the gallery are adorn'd with feveral paint- ings, large drawings, or cartoons of various hands, Domeni- chino, Pietro da Pietris, and others, with antique bufts, and baffo-relievo's. In that part next the terrace are the hurts of Ftolomceus Sot a-, Biblioth. Alexandr. Condi tor, Miltiades, jirijloteles, Pythagoras, M. Varro, Plato, Pittaciis, Jaiius, Homer, Mi'rcur. Jive Hermes Hicorogrammateus, Hercules JEgyptic^ iic Pliccnic. Dlfciplifiit propagator. — Thefe two lall are paint- ed in the library of the Vatican among the inventors of letters. This Ariftotle does not refemble others I have feen, particular- ly that of cardinal Gualtieri; this has no beard, and you fee along prominent chin. Among the bafib-relievo's, I obfcrv'd, on a Sarcophagus, a chariot-race of Cupids. There is a little chapel below, painted by Andrea Mantegna. The ftatues in the court of the Belvedere*, are, as to their Belvedere, attitude?, fo well known, not only by the prints, but carts from * '^ P"'.°^ them, or models after them, which are in England, that I need palace Co caU only name them. The Apollo, Laocoon with his fens, Venus '.'j'^; »* '« and Cupid, another Venus, the Antinous Admirandus, (as 'tis ^!^'^n^ ' "^ ufually call'd) and Commodus the emperor as a Hercules. The " Apollo, the Laocoon, and the Antinous are much thebeft; and they are all excellent. — The Commodus is good, but fliews a plain difference between the Greek and Roman tafte of fculp- ture. Neither of the rtatues of Venus is in the bert talk; one of them can hardly be called good. The beauty of the marble, and the airs of the figures in moll of ihefe are what no copy can thoroughly reprefent; and in- deed they are exquifite. — For even in carts, which mull: be M m 2 crteem'd 268 1\ O M E. V A T I C A N. efleem'd the mod exaft copies of any, as thefe are taken off in feveral pieces, when the pieces come to be put together, it is great odds but that fome little wrong turn at the fetting on of ihe head, or of an arm or a leg, may make the flatue not ex- actly fuit with the air of the original. They have parted upon the door that {huts up the nich of the Laocoon, that pifTage in Pliny which fpeaks of that groupe, as being the joint- work of Agefander, Polydorus, and Athenodo- rus, Rhodians. In the fame court are two large figures of the Nile and the Tiber, and a fine Sarcophagus, with a beautiful baffo-relievo upon it. In the walls of this court are fluck fome large faces, -TheycaiJ or mafks ■*, whicli they fay were brought from the baths of them^r^v- Agrippa behind his Pantheon. Towards one corner of the fame court is a noble vafe of porphyry, about fix yards diameter : this was brought thither lately. In a place adjoining is the famous Torfo, a mutilated antique ffatue, whereof there is now left only the body and thighs, called the School of Mich. Angelo, as being what he fludied much after. It appears by the infcription that it was made by Apollonius the fon of Neftor, an Athenian. It is al- low'd by all to have been the trunk of an Hercules ; and fome at Rome fuppofe him to have been in the aft of fpinning; but Mich. Angelo fcem'd to have been of another opinion, accord- ing to a model we law at Florence, which he made in order to reftore it, as he was to have done, had he lived. In that mo- del, his right elbow refls upon his thigh, his head is inclin'd as going to reft upon that hand, the other hand lying loofe upon the left thigh. By this it fliould feem that Mich. Angelo's opi- nion was, that it was Hercules repofing himlelf, after his labours. In the place where the Torfo is, are fome'Vound altars, and fome porphyry pillars, which were brought from the Pantheon. In a portico, coming out of that court, as you go towards the library, is an admirable dying Cleopatra, much in the fame attitude as that in the Villa de Medicis. This fof the Belve- dere] feem'd to me much better and more delicate than the other, the head of which is modern. From hence you go down a very long corridore or vaulted paflage, they fay 'tis five hundred paces in the whole; about the mid-way, is the entrance into the library. R O M E. V A T I C A N. 269 The library of the Vatican is replcnifhed with fo noble a trea- Library. fure, that one who Ipends but a fhort time in Rome, muft not pretend to give any fuitable account of it, efpecially unk-fs his bufinefs were wholly there. I (hall therefore only mention feme of the principal ornaments, and fuch few things as they commonly (hew to Grangers. Here are painted the chief works of Si.Ktus V, the great founder of this library, and in a great meafure the reftorer of Rome. The hiftories likewife of fix- teen councils. And, what is a well chofcn ornament for fuch a place, there is a reprcfcntation of nine of the molt eminent libraries, the Babylonian, Athenian, Alexandrian,. Palatine, &c. with fliort infcriptions giving an account of each :. and to fct in view the origin and firfl: advances of learning in feveral countries, there are painted on large pilafters ranged along the middle of the library, thofe perfons who were repu- ted to have been the inventors of letters in feveral languages, Adam, Abraham, Mofes, Mercurius, TEgyptius, Hercules iEgyptius, Cadmus, Cecrops, Pythagoras, and feveral other?,, with the letters which each of thefe are faid to have invented written under their pidtures. They fticw'd us the famous Vatican Greek Tel^ament, nine hundred years old, written in capitals, with the accents. The gofpel of S. Luke and S. John in Latin, eight hundred years old, written rnofHy in capitals. A Virgil, one thoufand four hundred years old, (as they fay) with limnings of no extraordinary performance. — I confefs I thought them fadly done, however valued there for their anti- (julty. It is written in capitals on vellom. The four difputcd lines which ofccn ftand at the beginning of the JEne'\d [Ille Ego, fee] are not in this copy. There are arguments in verfe before each book, a circumftance which fcems to me to favour of a later age. They never fail of (hewing an Englidiiman King Henry's book of the feven Sacraments againft Luther, with a writing of the king's own hand in the beginning, which I tranfcrib'd, Angk- rum rex- Hcnricns, Leo dccinic, mittit he opus, <i fJci te- Jiem, & amclt'ue. " Henry, king of Lngland, O Leo X. '" fends this work, a tellimony both of bis fjith and of his •*• frienddiip." 5 Vvhen 270 R O M E. V A T I C A N. When they have flievv'd you how good a Catholick he once was, they.prefently bring forth his letters to Anna Bullen, who they fay made him an apoftate. There are fome in French, fome in English; in feveral of them his majefty is very gay: — — " Hopes in a little time to kifs her pretty bubbies," &c. ■ In that which Mr. Addifon has given us, there are feme little miftakes : inftead of [your fifter's mother] it is [your fifter ma- ter, or, matez\ (there is a fort of r like a 2;), and there is no mention of a lord Manwring ; it is, ['* wrice to my lord myne " mind therein."] Mr. Addifon does not fay he tranfcrib'd the letter himfelf. . In an ancient officio, or miifal, are fome curious limnings, reprefenting the hiftory of the B. Virgin. Some other miifals, iinely adorn'd in the fame manner, by Giulio Clovio. An hiftory of the lives of two dukes of Urbino, with fome of the ftories painted in them, by the fame mafter, A fine manufcript of TafTo [not his own hand] done in the year 1620. Alfo, Some manufcripts, in five volumes, intituled, Hijioria Im- peratorum Roman, Grccc. Jive Conjlasitinop. & Germ, a yu/io Ccef. ad Rodolph. II. cum Effig. e Niunifm. per OSlavium Stradam Nob. Aulic. S. d?/. Maj. abfoluta, incept, a Patre yacobi. I think I never faw a cleaner pen than there is in the cfRgies of the emperors in thefe hooks. I have fince feen fome others of the fame hand, in the Cafa Gaddi at Florence : Thofe (as I remember) were in purple ink, thefe in the Vati- can in black. The antient Papyrus, [the thin bark of a tree, on which they wrote antiently] and the Pamius j^jbejiinus -f- are not fo great rarities as they would there reprefent them. I have ken. of each feveral times in England. There is a moft lovely pillar of oriental alabafter, tranipa- rent, which was dug up in the Via Appia. f Called alfo Amianthus, a doth not confumed by fire, in which the ancients ufed to wrap their dead bodies which were to be burnt, thereby preferring them, when reduc'd to aflies, from mixing with the alhes of the funeral pile. This cloth is made of fome .^ne kind of filaments* found within the veins of a ftone. The ROME. VATICAN. The great body of this library is faid to be three hundred foot in length, and about fcventy in breadth. Acrofs the further end, another gallery extends itfelf on the right and left to a great length;, and in that are contain'd the libraries of Heidelberg and Urbino, which are a noble addition to the other. Within the Vatican palace are kept the great arras Iiangings done after the cartoons of Raphael, nineteen in number. They are expofed pjblickly for three days in one of the cloillers leading up to S. Peter's church, at the teaft of Corpus Chrijii, when they make their grand proceflion. After this, they are hnng up in fome of the apartments within the palace, a few days, to be ktn there; and then they are put up in their ward- roi^es, where they continue all the reit of the year. The fub- jedls are, 1. The Birth of our Saviour.— — One of the fhepherds is playing on a bag-pipe. 2. The Prefentation in the Temple. •^. The Magi, adoring our Saviour. 4. The Slaughter of the Innocents. This is in three divifions, three feveral pieces of tapeflry : there is a print of this extant; but the Slaughter of the Innocents, engraved by Mark Antonio, is not after this; but taken from fome other defign of Raphael : the original cartoon after which this piece of tapeftry was made, was torn to pieces, and fome of thcfe pieces grace Mr. Richardfon's fine colledion. :;. The Defcent of our Saviour into the Limbus Patrum. There are in this feveral old men in a fort of large grave; you fee only the upper part of them. Our Saviour Hands with a banner in one hand, difplay'd, [a crofs gules, on a field ar- gent] with the other, he takes one of the tathers by the hand, as raifinjj; him up. A naked man and woman are quite above ground ; they feem to be Adam and Eve. There is another old man alfo above ground, who looks as if newly wak'd with a fort of furptize. 6. Chriil and the two dilciples at Emmaus. 7. Chriit appearing as n Gardener. 5. The R'-iu.reaion of Chnft. The confufion of the foldiers is nobly exprcfa'd. 9. The .•27- ROME. VATICAN. 9. The Afcenfion. 10. The Defcent of the Holy Ghoft. The B. Virgin Is fitting in the midft of the apoftles : two attendants behind her, one of them is leaning over the back of the chair. The feven next follovvLng are after the cartoons of Raphael now at Hampton-Court. 11. The Delivery of the Keys to S. Peter. 12. The beautiful Gate of the Temple. 13. S. Paul preaching. 14. Ananias and Sapphira. 15. Wonderful Draught of Fiflies. 16. Sacrifice to Paul and Barnabas. I"]. Elymas the Sorcerer. The other two are, 18. The Converfion of S. Paul. J 9. The Stoning of Stephen. That of Elymas is cut or folded, you only fee the upper part. I law it two feveral years ; it was both times put up over the entrance in the infide, of one of the portico's, and fo perhaps only folded in, to fit the place. Thefe nineteen are intire ; there are fome pieces of one or two more. The nine lafl have borders, of figures and foliage: I know not whether the borders were made at the fame time with the rell of the work; one of them certainly was not, for it contains an ac- count of fome pieces of tapeftry, (not mentioning the number) having been carried off by pirates, retaken, and reflored to pope Julius III. in i<J53, by Anne Montmorency, who was admiral of France : the words are thefe ; IJrbe captd partem Aidceorum a frcedonibus diJiraSiormn conquifitam, Annas Morno^ rancius Gallkce ??iilitice preef. refarclendam, atquc Julio 111. P.M. rejiituendam curavit, 1553. This is in the border of that which reprefents the Conver- fion of S. Paul. The materials of thefe tapeftry are rich, and the work cu- rious : but for firmnefs of drawing, and greatnefs of expref- fion, fall vaflly fliort of fuch of the originals as I have feen : the figures are either really lefs than the originals, or for want of that majeftick exprefiion which Raphael's own hand never fails of, they appear to be fo. We R M E. MONTE C A V A L L O. 273 Wc have an altar-piece in the choir at Cheftcr after one of the fame cartoons, (it is that of Elymas the Sorcerer,) which in my mind is much fuperior to any of t!iel>: however, thuv are a glorious fight all together. They are fome of them about eight yard'; long. In the great garden of the Belvedere arc kvcral fine baflb-re- licvo?, ftatues, and fountains. In one of thclc there is a (liip, out of which the guns (lioot water inllcad of tire. In another part of the garden is a pleafiire-houfe, made in the manner of an antique villa. The houfe itfelf is not much dif- ferent from what they ufe now-a-days : the court before it is an ellipfis, or oval; the houfe joins to the middle of one fide of it, and on the oppofite fide is a handfome portico fronting the lioufe, and there are two leflcr porticos at the two cnd<, thro' one of which we came into the court ; I don't remember that there is any entrance at the large one which fronts the houfe. It was made by Pyrrho Ligorio, and mod of the materials were taken from an antique villa. A pine-apple of copper, brought from the Moles Adriana, and two peacocks, of the {:\me metal, are placed in one fide of another of thefe gardens, next the palace -, the pine-apple feem'd to be not Icfs than five yards high. Tho' the Vatican be (as I have faid) the principal pnlace of the pope, yet Clement XI. for about half of his time ** made that of Monte Cavallo his ordinary refidence, as • And inno- being the wholefomer fituation : — lb thither wc will follow "l[y^ <;„'" the pontiffs.' But, having been infenfibly led on to a greater Wn^ ir.fo'n. length in my account of the Vatican than I intended, I ^^11 of\|f/t^||,c'^ be the briefer in what I have to fay of this and the rert of the palaces. This palace ftands on what was formerly called Mon.^ Q^d- ^,^J'°'''* '^''■ rinalis, and has chang'd its name to Monte Caval'o, from the'' two great horfes of white marble which Hand fronting one of the entrances into tlie palace. Thefe horfes have each of them his manager, and the figures in both have been fuppoftd to rc- prefent Alexander and Bucephalus : they give us moreover names of the fculptors on the pedcltals ; there being written on one Opus Phidice ; on the other. Opus Praxitelis. That writing, 1 doubt, is not verv confirtent with chronology; both N n th.cfe XXXIV. C, Mil. 274 ROME, MONTE CAVALLO. thefc fculptors were before Alexander's time. Phidias ninety Piin. lib. years, according to Pliny *, fome % more; Praxiteles, about ■ forty. They are very large, and indeed of a great and noble ftyk; but one of them, upon an attentive view, feems confi- derably better than the other, and has a good deal more fpirit. , The attitude is much the fame in each; only, one is as it were revers'd from the other, as a print is from the plate: and it is the opinion of a very ingenious perfon with whom I went to confider them, th.it one is no more tharl a revers'd copy from the other (only with fome little variation) poffibly by a dif- cipk or fome under- workman of the firfl: ; and that the fe- cond was made in the revers'd attitude of the firft, that they might the more exa>ftly anfwer one another, as ornaments to fome entrance, or fuch other place, where uniformity might be required. In the great court, on the fide of a turret, is a Madonna and Chrift m Mofaic, done after a painting of Carlo Marat j the original is kept within the palace. Upon the great ftair-cafe is a piece of painting which was remov'd from the Tribuna of the church of S. Apoftoli ; 'tis by Melotius Forolivienfis, who is faid there to have been either the firft inventor, or great improver of the way of fore-fliort- ening figures for ciclings. In a hall as you land from one branch of the flair-cafe, are feveral large cartoons, defigns for the Mofaic in S. Peter's church, by Carlo Marat, Andrea Sacchi, Pietro da Cortona, CiroFerri, and others. In the apartments which go off from the other branch of the ftair-cafe, are feveral excellent paintings, by the cavalier Lan- franc and other maUers. There is a little chapel, the cupola painted by Guido in fref- co, the altar-piece by the fame, in oil; the Annunciation. In one of the galleries they fliew'd us the model of a portico, propofed to be ercfted before the opening to the entrance of the colonnade which leads to S. Peter's church; and models for an afcent to the church of Trinita del Monte, which in- deed is very much wanted : when we were there, the afcent was not only rude and wild, but troublefome and Oifficult from the Piazza di Spagna to it. la R O M E. J\I O N T K C A V A L L O. --, In the I'.ime place is a Mtidonna and Chrift ruid S. John, lit- tle life, by Raphael ; and two others, S. Peter an ^ '■: !-"•, I'wJ to be l>y him likcwife, but of thefe I donhtcci. There is a very fine Nativity, hv Carlo Mar..: ; Jofcph and hi? Brethren, by Moh ; and A Batile, by Borgognonc; dll in frello. Tiiis palace is very large, bat nothiiig to that degree as the \\itican. It was begun by Gregory XHI. carried on and en- larged by feverid fnccceding popes ; and was ulcd to be their rummer rcfidence only, a-^ Handing higher, and more airv ihaii the V'atican, till the two hift popes took to it altogether! It was Sixtus V. that fet up the two great horfes above- mention'd, and raifed a noble fountain before them. They Were found in the ruins of Conrtantine's Baths, which were juft below the Quirinal Mount, where prince Colonn^'s gardens now are. In this palace of Monte Cavallo we wxre prefent at a con- Conuilory. fillory held there, for the delivery of the hats to futh of the cardinals as had been created by Clement XI. but had not re- ceived that completion of their dignity from him. In coming thither, all the cardinals, old and new, make their folemn entry into the city thro' the gate del Popolo, and fo march on in cavalcade through the ftreets on mules ; the caimrarie [chamberlains] going before on horfeback, with ornaments of embroider'd velvet, on the necks of their horfes. After them the gentlemen, the Swifiers, and what they call nuizzicri, i. e. pole-ax-men and mace-bearers, &c. Then the cardinals on their mules, two and two at firft, with Xhc\i Jiojieri, or footmen, and huflars on foot. Afterwards they came three in a row, one new one between two old ones. That part of the bridle-reins that was on the fides of the mules necks, was near a quarter of a yard broad, all embofs'd. The new cardinals had hats which were of a deep purple colour, as were likcwife their robes, much like the colour of tlie robes of the bifliops. The old cardinals had red hats and robes. All their hats were tied under their chins', by thofe filken cords, with taffels at the ends of them, which we fee in the prints of cardinals hats over their coals of arms. The prelates and attendants followed them. N n 2 When 276 ROME. MONTE C A V ALL O. When they were come into the confiftory, all the old car- dinals kifs'd his holinefs's hand ; the new cardinals went into a chapel to take the oath ufual upon the occafion. When they return'd thence, they made their adoration. When the pope put on the hat, he read a prayer out of a broad book that was held before him. The new cardinals then kif'r'd his hand, and afterwards went round and falutedall the cardinals. The pope then went out to change his drefs in another room, the bifhops and prelates attending, at the feveral doors he pafs'd through, as fo many porters, to hold up the tapeflry that hung over them. When his holinefs was ready. Cardinal Rohan made a Latin oration in the name of himfelf, and the rell: of the new car- dinals, to thank him for the honour he had done them ; then took notice of the nobility of the pontiff's family, out of which had been chofen fo many popes, ornaments of the church, himfelf the brightefi: and the greateH: : eledled (as was the will of heaven) by the unanimous voice of all the con- clave, approved, rever'd and lov'd by all the people. Favour'd of God and man, as Mofes; pious as Phineas; upright as Samuel, &c. &c. &;c. And that there was a profpedl of great fe- licity to the church and holy religion, under fo wife and ex- cellent a head and governor. The pope anfwer'd in Italian; congratulating with them on the bufmefs of the day, and applauding the choice made by his predecefibr; that what was begun by hiaiv was with a great de.il of pleafure finifliM by himfelf: and that no doubt but all wou'd go well, the church flcurilh, and every thing profper, now that an addition was made to the Sacred College of fo pious, fo learned, and fo worthy perfons as loro fignori. This is the fubftance of what I could remember of the fpeeches: I was promis'd copies of them, but was difappointed; p rhaps they were not to be had. When the fpeeches were over, the capellain [gentlemen of the ch^ptl] fang the Te Deim, which finifli'd the ceremony. Don Alefiandro Albani, one of the fo nier pope's nephews, [lince made cardinal by Innocent XIII.] was afk'd by an Engl.lh nobleman, who had known him while he was pope's nuncio 6 at ROME. MONTE C A V A L L A. 277 at Vienna, How he lik'd the- fpceches r He told him, That the late pope would not have aniwer'd in Italian to a Ipccch made to him in Latin. Though innocent XIII. was not accounted a fcholar, as Cle- ment XI. was, yet he had more of tlie Ipirit of government, and was laid to keep the greatcll: of the nobility at more diftancc^ than the other did the inferior Ibrt. Having been induc'd, in fpeaking of the palace of Monte Ca- vallo, to give I'ume account of a ceremony \ok funttione, as they call fuch matters] perform'd there, I will now take ccca- fion (before I proceed to the reft of the palaces) to mention an- other funtflionc, the Corpus- Chrifti proccfllon, which is annual- ly made from the palace of tho Vatican; they reckon it ihc greateft proceflion they have, and call it Proccjjio GencraliJJhna. The procelfion began with charity-boys, orphans, linging anthems in p.irts. Then follow'd the feveral religious orders (fome of them finging) a prodigious number. After thefe, a company carrying white wax flimbeaux, fotiie ot tliem vsry religious, fome citizens, among them gen- tlemens or rich citizens fons, pretty youths. The number of the cumpiny which bore the tlambeau.x, as 1 was told, was about two ihoufand j I counted above a thoufind, and I believe there were as many more. J thought there was little need of fo many Hambeaux in fuch bright and hot fun-fliine, as we then had. Then caTie the pavilions (a fort of tents) to reprtlcnt the feveral Hahliche, with infcriptions upon each, and little bells about fume of them, with chorifters finging in parts, attended with feveral oiiicers, and gentlemen with liambtaux li^c- wile. Then follow'd the generals of the feveral orders, and their ferxants. Then the Sbirri *, with their barigello, or captain. . officers cf The prctonot irti apcjloltci. jiiili.c. Some officers, bearing tlie four tnrcgni [triple crowns] richly ado ii'd witli jewels j ami three mitres. The muficians.ot the pope's chapel, the prelates, the per, i- tentidnes of S. Peter's. The V7^ ROME. MONTE C AVAL LO, The bifliops, thirty-one In number, among them the Greek •and Armenian bifnops. The cardinals, forty-fix in number, with their trains born up, and officers attending, carrying their red hats of ceremony, (for they ufe red hats without taffels upon fome other occafions.) The fenators and confervatori, and other officers of the city of Rome. . Then followed the I'oft, placed iipon a' fort of 'table, and his holinefs, as in the &&. of adoration to it, refting his arms upoh the fame table, and holding up his hands, the palms with the fingers ftretched out, clofed together : the table, on which the hoft is placed, ftands upon a frame, which bears his holi- nefs likewife, and is carried on men's fhouldersj and there was a baldachhw or canopy carried over the hoft and him, and in- cenfe wafted before them : the life-guards in fhining armour were on each fide : the camerarii d'honore followed. His holinefs feemed to kneel, the folds of his robes being fo difpos'd as to reprefent him in that pofture, but he really fate on a feat hid by his robes, as one confcls'd to me, with an apo- logy for the imbecility of old age. After them the cavalli Icggieri [light horfe] all with banners, helmets, and feathers ; the officers in rich habits, with very fine armour. The atirajjieri, and foot-guards clos'd the proceffion. It may be a fatisfacflion to fome that are curious, to have the feveral corps of the proceffion more particularly fet down, [by others 'tis eafily pafs'd over.] There was one with me whom I thought as able to inftruft 1 took tills i^ie in whatever we ffiould fee as any perfon in Rome : he told more parucu- me the names hereafter fet down, as they palled, but fome theoTde"",'"^^'''^'''''^ he knew not the names of, and I have defcrib'd thofe, &c. atthe only by the colour of their habit. proceffion that was made in^, r c^ -k »• i i/» ihcfirllyear Orphans of S. Michael finging m parts. of Innocent White orphans, finging in the fame manner. mer mor^e ge- ■^'^'^^^' [brothers] di Giefu Marin. nerai one, in Padri Fvanceji [Frcuch fathers] of the Madonna del Miracoii of c'lelenr t*^^ °"'' '^'^y °^ ^^ miracles] Francifcans. XI. Capuchins. Fathers ROME. M O N T E C A V A L L O. 279 Fathers of the Redemption [J'c. of captives] of the convent of S. Adrian. Their habit white. Fathers of S. Onuphrio. Hermits. French Minims, fathers. Black. Francifcans; of the convent of the H. Apoftles. Francilcans, of S. S. Cofmus and Damianus. radri ScrvitI o( S. MarccUus. Fathers. Francifcans of the Ara Cocli. A very numerous order. Padri AugujUnl. Fathers. A black order. Fcidri Carmelitani. White. Fathers. A black order. Fadri Dommicani. A dark-coiour'd order. Regular canons of S. Pet. in Vincoli.. Fathers of S. Bernard. White. Two blick orders. A white order. A black order. Regular canons of the convent dcl/a Pafe, [of the Peace.] Brutheri- of the college in S. Peicr's. Pan(h priefls. Canons of the Bocca di Ferita, [Mouth of Truth.] Canons of S. Celfus. Canons of S. Vlaria inviola^a. Pavilion of the Bafilicadi Sand. Sanflorum, with bclJs, as de- fcribed bttore. Another pavilion with chorifters finglng in parts. Ca:ion.s of the apoftolick ch-incery of S. Lorenzo in Dam.ifo. The Bafilica of S. Maria Maggiore, with miificiaiis, canoas» prelates, ficc. The Bafilica of '^. John Lateran, with canons, &c. Officers, gentlemeii, ficc. with flambeaux, tapers, 6cc. Generals of the orders, with their lervants. The Sbirri with their captain. The apoftolick protonotaries. Four trere^ni, or triple crowns ; and two mitres. Mufick ot the pope's palace. Prelates. PenU 2So ROME. MONTE CAV ALL O. Penitentiaries of S. Peter. Bifhops, thirty-one. Cardinals, forty-fix, trains born up. Otticers with their red hats, &c. Senators and confervators, 6cc. Hoft and Pope under canopy, as above. Caniei-arie d honore [gentlemen of. the chamber, 6cc.J Cavalli leggierL Light horfe,. as above. Cuirafiicrs. FoQt-guards. The procefTion began from the Vatican fide of S. Peter's church next the portico where Raphael's tapeftries theii were hung up, as I before obferv'd was ufual, and continued under a fort of occafional portico, whofe covering was linen cloth, to keep orf the fun, fupported by wooden columns, wrap'd round with green boughs i feftoons reaching all along at the top from one column to another ; and in the midft, above each felloon, feme fort of pidure hung with a green garland round it. .The way was all along ftrevv'd with frefh fand, and bay- leaves fcatter'd over it. . When they came to the Piazza di Scofla Cavalli (about a quarter of ia mile from the ch^urch, they call it a great deal more) they fetch'd a compafs about that piazza, and went up by the portico on the other fide the area before S. Peter's into the church. His holinefs afcending the great altar, gave his benedidion, and elevated the holl. At the elevation, there was heard fuch a found of the people thumping their breafts, as you hear when a regiment of foldiers are grounding their mufquets. — Anthems finging before and after. When his holinefs was gone, the hofl, which after the ele- vation was fepofcd by him upon the great altar, was carried by the canons, and plac'd on the altar at the upper end of the church. After the papal palaces, comes next in dignity that of the Cancellaria, which is a noble ftruQure, built round a large court, with porticos one above another. The apartments are great and noble, as well thofe for audi- ence ;^nd entertainment, as fhofe which are fet apart for bufi- nefs, -for the attendance of the prelates and others, upon the affairs of the apoflolick fee. There R O M E. C A N C E L L A R I A. 281 There i.van antique Flercules, in the attitude of the Farnefe ; it is very fine, hut iVnall. One of the halls is painted in frefco by Giorgio Vafarl. Some very good paintings arc in the galleries, and difperb'd in the apartments. Tht: eminent pcrfon, who inhabits this palace by virtue of his high office, is cardinal Ottoboni, vice-chancellor of the apo- ftolick lee. Heretofore they were called chancellors, while it was held by cardinals, as it has been now again j but for a con- fiiierable time it was in the hands of others, that were not car- dinals,- and he that held it then was called canceliarii viccm gereris ; and there being a pretty long fucccOjon of fuch, when It came to be held by cardinals again, they were not mindful of reltoring the antient tide it had before. This cardinal is a man of great courtefy and generofitv, and makes all his entertainments da grand prencipe [a^ a great prince ;] one particuhirlv at which my lord Parker was prefent (I had the honour of being there likewife) which they fay coft him fix thou- fand crowns ; it was in honour of the [then] new-eleded popir. In the publirk piazza, before the palace, was a concert of vo- cal and inlfrumental mufick, of a hundred and fifty performers : there were tv/o large palco's or galleries eredled, one on each fide the piazza, for the [Iferformers, with others for fuch of the company as the numerous v.indows of the palace coUld not contain : at a diflance, fronting the middle of the palace, was a machine, built in very handfome archited:ure, rais'd on an arch of rock-work, with fcvcrai large figures, for the fire-works : the four principal figures reprefenting the four c|uarters of the world. Thef.-, with others at a further diftance, which they call girnndoli.\ whirling in a thoufand varieties before the eye, and ib numerous a chorus of admirable mufick filling the ear, gave a furprifingiy magnificent entertainment to both. The mulick was a Ibrt of drama, wherein the principal perfonct w"re the fame as were prcfcnted on the machine, i, e. the four c]uarters of the world, who, fometimes in alternate fbng, fome- tiines in united chorus, celebrated the praifcs of the new pope, with th great advantages arifing to the world in general, and t(j Ronw in paticular, from this her prince, pafl^r, and citi- • Being a ztn *. Within the palace were entertainments of another It^r' 1 fj^jl'ready""'' O O a longmentionM. 28« R M E. P A L. F A R NE S E. £ long fuite of rooms linely illuminated, and tables fet out with great vaiiety of fweetmeats, and all Torts of fruits rcprefented in ice. The appearance of the company was exceeding fplendid, a very great nun:iber of the principal quality of both fexes being there, and the ladies very richly fet out with jewels. The aff-ible, genteel, and courtly addrefs of the cardinal was •an entertainment at leaft equal to any that I have mention'd. His eminence was pleas'd to fend us books of the drama the next morning. :PalaceFar- The palace Farnefe, belonging to the duke of Parma, noble and fine as it is, one cannot fee without feme regret, when one confiders the havock that was made in the amphitheatre for the building of it : moft of the ftones that were employed in it having been brought from thence. The projections are all of flone ; the flat parts are moflly brick, but the fineft, and bed wrought, that can be feen. In the publick piazza before it are two noble fountains, with bafons of oriental granite. The principal front is not much adorn'd, but has a noble plainnefs which is truly majeftick. Whether the lights would not have borne to have been fome- Avhat larger and higher, I leave to the more knowing to deter- mine : certain it is, that the great dark fpace there is between the windows and the top of the rooms on the infide gives them fomewhat of a melancholy air ; perhaps that might be intended, as being judg'd confequently more awful. * The palace is built about a court, with porticos one above another going round it. As foon as you enter the court, you are fronted by two great ftatues of Hercules, on the oppofite fide, both in the fame attitude. The people there take it for granted, that every body that comes thither is immediately looking Qut for The Farnefe Pler- cules, (whofe attitude is very well known by the many prints, drawings, and models after it that are in England) and fo by way of pleafantry they afk. Which of thofe you fee you judge to be that you feek for ?— It is not very hard to diftinguifh, though .the other, in the abfence of the famous one, would make no ill ROME. P A L. FARNESE. 283 ill figure. The other is fuppos'd to have been done while the hert lay iindifcovcr'd, either from I'uch tnedals which have this fv^urc (in the reverie, or from fonv; ancient fniall copy of the llatue ; ot winch there are feveral : — for that there is kich dif- ference in the proportions, as he that was capable of making that ftatiie would hardly have been guilty of, had he done it immediately from the original. The fine one was made by Giyco the Athenian, as appears by the infcription, rATKf>N AeuxAios kroifi. The countenance is majeftick and fcdatc, as ruminating upon the hft labour he had been performing: which muft have been that in the garden of the Hefpcridcs, for (to the beft of my me- mory) he has an apple in his right hand, which is rcfted behind his back. The body and limbs have an admirable exprellion of mafculine ftrength [as that of the Medic*;an Venus has of female delicacy] — the joints well knit, the mufcles ilrong, and yet na ways incumber'd or exaggerated ; which excefs IVIich. Angelo wa& too much inclin'd to, left you fliould not find it out that he was a mailer in anatomy ; — like fo.me that fancy you can't hear, uniefs they bawl to you. Near this excellent ftatue ftand the Flora, and a Gladiator; the extreme pa: ts of the Flora are modern, but very good. All the reft is antique, and is cloathed with the moft beautiful dra- pery that can he imagin'd ; and for the fuperior excellency of which this ftatue is particularly remark'd. Signor Antonio Borioni, the famous virtuofo-apothecary, has a maim'd ftatue in much the fame condition the Flora was in before it was re- pair'd, wanting the head and hands. The drapery of his too is admirable, and the fwecp of the body beautiful j his feems to have been a Flora too. The Gladiator, fome fav, reprcfents Spicillus Mirmillo, a freed-man of Nero, who had il.miliz'd himfelf by his bravery. A youth, whom he has kill'd, is thro-vn over his left niouldcr. Others call this a Commodus, in the appearance of a gladiator. Gronovius is of another opi:^ion, and will not allow it to be any gladiator: he fuppofes it to be an Atreus with one of the chil- dren ot his brother Thyeftes : Ibilefs (fays he) you'll fuppofe gladiators to have been fighting with boys. [This indceu he has OD his back, is- no more.] His defcription of this figure is very O 2 juft. 2?4 U O M E. P A L. F A R N E S E. ^iifl:. FJl imago favienth, & ctroc'uf.n-.e contreElantis pueruw, in qnem crudelijime vult confnlere. Hinc arrcptum pede dextro jam jam gladio efi d'ljfeblurm -y ccrle fic minahundus Jlat Afreiis^ atque ird tiunct. " It is the reprelentation of a perlbn much " enraged, who very roughly handles a lad, whom he is going • " to ule with the utmoft cruelty. He has caught him up by " his right foot, and is juft a going to cleave him afunderwith " his fword. With fuch a threatning countenance, indeed, " does Atreus ftand, and fvvells with rage." The meflenger, indeed, in Seneca's Thyelles, gives another account of the death of his children, fc. a formal facrifice of them by the hand of a prieft, with all accuilom'd ceremonies. But fuch variations are a liberty allowable to poets of every kind, whe- ther verfifiers or fculptors, &c. In a wafte ground, without the back gate of the palace, is cnclos'd within a rude fort of a place, that famous groupe call'd the T^oro ; [the bull]. There is the bull, two men and two ' women, and a youth as big as life, with animals, and other ornaments. Thefe, and the rock they all fland upon, are cut out of one block of marble. The ftory is, Dirce tied to the Horns of the Bull. The otlier circumftances of theilory are too well known to need being inferted here. I did not find, any infcription upon the marble, but 'tis look'd upon to be the fame which is mention'd by Pliny as brought from R-hodes, and plac'd before the houfe of Afmius Pollio ; the joint work of Apollonius and Taurifcus. It was remov'd from its firft fituation by Caracalla, and plac'd in his baths ; in the ruins of which it was found in the time of Paul the Third. It is of unequal goodnefs in the feveral parts : the countenances of Zetus and Amphion have a noble expreffion of indignation and revenge : their hands, and the head of the bull, have a great deal cf force, which none of the prints of it, which I have feen, do in any degree come up to : but the expreffion in the countenance of Dirce is not fuch as one might expert on the occafion : it is quite without paffion. Antiope (lands by as a fpeftator, and not much concern'd any way ; perhaps the fatisfadtion fhe might take in the fate of her rival, and yet the horror naturally arii- ing from fuch a fight might be fuppos'd as mutual checks upon each other, and fo to keep her foul in an equilibrium. .3 Amphion's R O ME. PA L. P A R N E S E. 285 Amphion's harp lies at one corner of the rock, and gives us an autlientick, rcprelontaticn of the old tt-fiuilQ cithani. TJiis groupc, taking it all togctiier, inufl be titeem'd a moll: niagni- liccnt and noble perforinancc. In the fame place arc a great many other pieces of antique iculpture; Ibme fragments, others intirc. Among which a young Auguflus on horfeback, about the fize of half life, is excellently good. And, a ram, which for fuch a fubjcdlis ad- mirable : one would wonder how marble could be fo foften'd into wool. The gallery, painted by Caracci, is univerfally known, as to the defign, by the prints that are of it. The execution is mofl maflerly in all refpeds: and for colouring, it is certainly the very perfe<flion of frefco-painting. The feveral ftories are feparated from each other by large fi- gures, in chiaro ofcuro, of Termini, Cariatides, 6cc, which give a moft agreeable variety, and a relief to the eye from fuch an effetfl, as the luxuriancy, which fo great a work all painted in the proper colours, would have produc'd. The iJca of the figures of Polypheme, of which there arc two in this work, feem evidently to have been taken from thofc of Pelegrino Tibaldi, in the Inflituto at Bologna, under whom thefamily of the Caracci made their firftfludies in painting. The part of the ftory reprefented here is different from that at Bo- logna, and conlequently fb is the attitude too; I fpeak therefore only of the idea in general, being taken llrom the other, which I think muft be manifeft to thofc who have confider'd both. Befidts this admirable performance in painting, this gallery is adorn'd with feveral pieces of excellent antique fculpture, which are rang'd at proper diftances all along it. Here is the famous Homer, the original of fo many other?, which are antique too. We faw four togetlier in one colledi- on, [that of cardinal Albani] fome a little varied in fome inccn- fiderable circumflances, but all vifible imitations of this. There is likewif'e a veftal virgin of exquifite beauty, and fe- veral others, too many to recite. But, I mufl: not omit the Seneca, the very pidure of fignor Trevifani, a famous painter now in Rome. It is not necelfary that a great man {hould be a great beauty, ai^ There J686 ROME. PAL. FARNESE. There are a great many reprefentations of this philolbpher at Rome and ehewhere : as good a one as any, 1 think, is that of the great duke's at Florence. Juft as you come out of the gallery', in the room adjoining, you fee the Venus Callipygis [with fair haunches] ftie turns ■ back her head to look at them -, with one hand flie holds the drapsry before her, which flie has drawn from behind, and with the other fhe raifes part of it above her head. The head is mo- 2i dern, and indifferent enough , but the back is excellent. The occafiun of this epithet being given to Venus, is dcliver'd by Athenacus, and is as follows. '* Two pretty young girls, daughters of a countryman near " Syracufe, taking a walk in a pubhck way, fell into a difpute " which of them had the handfomer buttocks. A young man " happening to come by, who was fon to a chief perfon in " the city,, they agreed to refer the matter to him, and both. «' fairly lliew'd him the parts in queftion. After a careful view " of each, he adjudg'd thofe of the elder to be the handfomeft, " and became violently fmitten with the lafs. Back he goes "* into the city. Tick of love, and tells his younger brother "^^ what hadhappen'd. Upon this, out went he, and taking " his furvey of the girls, fell in love with the other. The fa- " ther of the young men coming to know of it, urg'd them ta " bethink themfelves of more confiderable matches; but find- " ing all he could fay fignified nothing, rcfolv'd at laft to indulge " their love, fent for the girls out of the field, well to the " content of their father, and married them to his fens. The- *« young ladies [for fuch we muft now call them] upon this «^ got the name of v^aKhnrvyoi among their fellow-citizens, ac- • «* cording to the Iambic of Cercidas the Megalopolitan. There was a fair-haunch'd pair in Syracufe. " They being now advanc'd to a fair fortune, built a temple *' to Venus, calling her likewife Y.<t\7'j')rvyovy In the fame room is a marhle head, which they call Demo- .{Ihenes, but it is very much different from other reprefentations Ihave feen of him. It has no .beard, the others have. Itr fome- R O M E. P A L. F A R N E S E. ^.^-, fomewhat refembles the head of the Rotatore at Florence ; info- much th;it I have known tlie plaillcr-caft of the one mirtaken fcr the otlicr, by feme, that have not been well ac(juaintcii vvidi both thele figures, tho'otheruifewellllciirdin things of tliis nature. Among a confiderable number of the Roman emperors, in another room, tliere is a famous buft of Caracalla, which is par- ticularly ellcem'd; it is a moft elaborate, as well as ma fterly per- formance, and (as the Homer above mention'd) has had grea't numbers done in imitation of it, which we have feen difpcrsM in feveral coUcdions. In the fame room are two fine Bacchanals in baflb-relievo. Here is the plan of old Rome in marble, taken from the tem^ pie of Romulus and Remus, as has been already mention'd. There is extant a map of old Rome, which was taken in part from thcfe marbles. In another room is painted the hiilory of that great general of this family, Alexander Farnefe, but not very well. The fame I'ubjedis reprefented at Piacenza, and takes up a whole fuite of rooms. A particular account of this great man may be fcen in Famla- nus Strada's hiftory of the Low-country Wars. In the hall is a large ftatue of the fame Alexander, crown'd by Vidory; the river Scheld in chains, and Flanders kneeling under him. This great groupe, they fay, was cut out of the low*- er part of a pillar which once belong'd to the temple of Peace. Around this hall are feveral ftatues of gladiators, and two of Piety and Abundance, by Guglielmo della Porta, Milanefe, very good. 'Tis a thoufand pities that fo noble a palace as this is, fliould be le(t uninhabited, and in a manner delblatc. From a terrace behind this palace you have a view of the leffer palace of the lame family (called therefore the Piccolo Little F«r- Farnefe) in the Lungara, on the other fide the Tiber. And we "'^'^' were told there was once a defign to have a bridge built over that river, and a communication made between the two palaces. The Ifclier palace is rather mean than otherwife, if compar'd with the greater. It is uninhabited too, and very much neglecfl- ed. 'Tis pity that the line paintings of Raphael -hat arc within cannot be remov'd to fonie other place, where bettercarc might be taken ROME. LITTLE FARNESE. taken of them. But they are done in frefco, and confequently unmoveable, unlefs by taking wall and all. One of them is the famous Galatea, with Nymphs, Tritons, and Cupids, a very gay defign : there are feveral copies of it in England, befides the prints. It has been well prei'erv'd from fraftures, but for want of fires, and by itsftanding not far from the Tiber, the colouring has fuffer'd, thro' damps. — In the fame room, with this celebrated piece, in a corner towards the top, they (hew a large head, in black chalk, done upon the plaitter, by Mich. Angelo, in Raphael's abfence, which was intended, as they fay there, as a reproof to Raphael for making his figures in the Galatea toofmall. If that was the intent, there is a ca- ricatura in the reproof; for had Raphael made his figures fo large in the place where they are, they would have been mon- fiirous: Galatea had been then a fair match for Polyphemus. On the fame floor, is a room filled with the ftory of Pfyche, all defign'd by Raphael, but chiefly executed (as they fay) by Julio Romano, i. e. the two large pidlures on the flat of the cieling, reprefenting the council of the gods, and the marriage- feaft of Cupid and Pfyche. The other parts of the ftory, in- troduflory to this conclufion of it, and other fancies allufive to it, reprefenting the Power and Triumph of Love, are paint- ed in triangular compartiments, feparated by fefl:oons of fruits and foliage, on the coveing flope, which rifes from the wall to the flat of the cieling. Thefe they fay were moftly painted by Raphael's own hand, and do much furpafs the cieling in the execution. The ground of that is a ftrong blue fky, with fnowy fort of clouds, which is no advantage to the figures. This they told us was nothing fo to that degree, till painted over by Carlo Maratti, who was employed to repair it. Bellori has given a large account of the ftory, and the performance; und under the prints of it engrav'd by Sir Nich. Dorigny, are fummary accounts of the feveral parts of it, to which I refer the reader. The Venus in the Council of the Gods is as clumfy and grofs in the painting as 'tis in the print ; one wou Id rather take it for a defign of Rubens than of Raphael. Pluto's fide-glance to- wards her is ad-mirably exprels'd in the original, as is Neptune's more dire(ft one. But the Venus that comes in dancing at the Nuptial ROME. PAL. BARD K R I N I. i^g Nuptial Feaft, is a mod genteel and beautiful figure ; fo light and air}', as if flie could lead on her dance in pure a?thcr, and not need the footing even of a cloud to fix her fteps upon. The Mercury, which is painted at the upper end of the gallery [below the cicling] is, I think the iivcliefl figure I ever faw : you can hardly perfuade yourfelf, but that he is really coming forward to meet you. The paintings above flairs fcarce dcferve to be mention'd (at leafl: after what we have been i'peaking of), though they cali'd them all Giulio Romano's. Vulcan's forge, over a chimney in the firrt room, Giulio pofTibly might have had fome liand in. The Palazzo Barberini is a vallly large, and mod noble pa- P^V Barbc- lacc J being at the lametiire the habitation both of a prince/"'*" and of a cardinal, each having their feparate grand apartments in it, cither of them fufficient to make a gre;it palace of itfelf. And yet there is, befides, another lefler one, of tlie princefs Paleftrina. In this palace is a very large and fine library : the keeper of it, Monf de Rom.ain, is a curious and learned, but very mo- rofe gentleman. Pie would not fo much as accept the money oft^er'd him by way of gratuity ; others in his ftation are upon fuch occafions generally more complaifant. He is the fame perfon that wrote a large account in Latin of S. Peter's church, intitled, Templum Vaticanum. Throughout the apartments are difpers'd a perfect infinity of paintings, ftatues, and other curiofities. The great flair-cafe has in the middle of it an antique lion in marble, mczo-relievo, in a verv great tafte. This lion is fup- pos'd by Bellori [Fctcrum Scpulclini, N*^ 49.] to have belong'd to an old fepulchre at Tivoli, now deftroyed ; but the memory of it is prelcrv'd by a drawing of Pietro da Cortona, and publiih'd by Bellori from that. The Barberini-family might pofiibly come by this lien ihro' the means of Pietro, when he was paint- ing their great hall. A pair of back ftair ., on the other fide, oi the Inmacha fort [winding,] are reckcnVl the fined in Rome ; the area of tiiefe ftairs is not rouad, but oval. Either of thcfe rtair-cjfes delivers \'nu into a very noble hall, the cieling admirably painted by Pietr-o da Cortona, (as iull now hioted) the Triumnh of Glorv, the iVuir Ciivlinnl Vif- ' Pp ' tJSS, jjpo ROME. PAL. BAR BE RIN I. tues, &c. all by way of compliment to the family* There is a vafl multitude of figures in this great performance, and won- derfully good. It is there efleem'd the principal of his works j there is a vaft luxuriancy of fancy lliew'd in it, but I did not think it fo degage as what he has done in the Palazzo Pitti at Florence. In a room adjoining is a cieling curioufly painted by Andrea Sacchi-: it reprefents the Divine Wifdom. I lliall trouble the reader with only a very few of the nume- rous fine things which we law in this palace. On the cardinal's fide, is a fine antique ftatue of Brutus the conful, with the heads of his two fons in his hands. — The flory is very well known. A Satyr fleeping. A large Bacchanal painted by RomanelHj there is one of the fame among the royal pidures, at Somerfet-Houfe in London. S. Sebaftian carried by Angels, finely painted by Lanfranc. There is a fine chamber of buflis : Julius C^far, Scipio Afri- canus, Marcus Aurelius, Lucius Verus, and many others. In another chamber, a fine buft, faid to be of Alexander, with a helmet : and another of Pallas. The cieling of this room is painted by Giofeppe Chiari, and is the befl, I think, that I have feen of his works : it reprefents Plato in the cradle, and the bees playing about him. This, no doubt, v/as done in allufion to the Barberini-arms, which are bees. In another room is a mofl: curious portrait-bufl:, carved by Bernini, a lady of the family Gakoti, wife to one of the Bar- berini. I have feen other faces of his, full as well done as this : but there is fomewhat in the drapeiy almoft furpafling imagination. The delicacy of the lace about her neck and bo- iom, fo wrought in marble ! — it is not to be exprefs'd. In another room, fome naked figures painted in chiaro ofcu- ro, by Mich. Angelo, in capricious attitudes, called Academia delle Forze, as if it were a fchool for inft;ru(5tion, how to repre- fent actions of ftrength and adlivity. A fine pi(fture of Leonardo da Vinci, two women : one of them has a flower in her hand. In other rooms are Marcus Aurelius, as haranguing his army j Septimius Severus, a whole figure, both in copper. ROME. PAL. B A R B E R I N 1. 291 HIppomanes and Atalantain marble, fine. An old Mof'aic of Europa and llie Bull, brought from the temple of Fortune at Pra:nefte, now call'd Palcllriin, whereof the family of the Barberini are princes. Three Bacchantes in ballb-relievo, on an altar, half round. Ifis and Ilarpocratcj, with a cornucopia. A very fine antique Venus afleep ; marble. A Boy afleep, finely painted by Guido. Polypheme and Galatea, by Han. Caracci, in frefco, fmall. The famous Magdalene of Guido, which (as I remember) they diftinguifli by the addition of con pic Ji ««a'/ [barefoot.] And A S. Francis over againft it, by the fame hand : of both thefc there are copies in England. Noah and Cham, by Andrea Sacchi. AS. Katharine, by Leonardo da Vinci; admirable. A Roma Triumphans, an antique painting in frefco, with iiitloriolcv. Under it is a modern infcription, Virtus, Honor, Imperium, [Virtue, Honour, Empire.] Over againfl: this is a Venus, antique, likewife in frefco ; with fome boys added by Carlo Maratti : a good copy has been made of it by Thomafo Chiari, brother to Giofeppe. Near ihefe is a fmall head of an old woman, which has the moft of nature of any thing, I think, I ever faw. A Rogus *, and feveral other fine bailo-relievo's. • Funeral The twelve apoflles, whole lengths, painted by Carlo Ma- C '''L*''"" ^°' ,. *, , ''ill , ^ -i''^ burning, rat: and, in another room, lome whole-length portraits by i.-c. the fame. On the prince's fide, is a celebrated pidure of Nicola Pouf- fin, reprefenting the death of Germanicus. Mr. Richardfon ^ has a fine copy of it. A faint praying; by Guido. A Pert ; by Carlo Marat. The Baptifm of Chrift; by Andrea Sacchi. Another Magdalen by Guido; fomewhat in the attitude of tThisi.whn that on the cardinal s lide. ly call the pic- A Noli me tangerc-j- ; by Han. Caracci. turcs which Silenus, an antique ftatue, fine. Chria'aft.-r Pope Urban VIII. in Mofaic. He was theraifcr of this fa- his nfurrcc- mily. 'r' '"t Ppa A goat '^"'•''■^■- fer^a ROME. P A L. B A R B E R I N r; A goat fcratching his ears, marble, antique. Some capricious fancies of Mich. Angclo, call'd his Drean^, There is a print after it. Raphael's Millrefs, painted by himfelf ; with naked breaft and arm. Upon the bracelet on her arm is written Raphael Urbinas. The pi(flure has abundance of nature, but reprefents no great beauty. There is a copy of it above ftairs, by Giulio Romano. In the princefs's apartment are, A Chrift afleep, and a Madonna ; a fine countenance; by Guido. A Holy Family, call'd Raphael. 'Tis doubtlefs of his defign. King Charles the Firft's Queen, by Vandyke. A Holy Family and S. Catherine, by Parmegiano. Some ftudies, as they call them, that is, drawings and llietches after Coregio's cupola at Parma ; faid to be done by Andrea Sacchi. To avoid prolixity, I forbear adding feveral others in this palace which I took memorandums of. But I muft not omit mentioning the famous Vas Barberinum ; the figure of the vafe itfelf, with thofe of the baflb-relievo"s that are upon it, are in print. The ground is black, and the figures in the relievo are white : fo that it is what tl>ey caM cameo, and there they do aver that the black and the white in the flone are both natural. But Signer Ficaroni, upon frequent examinations of it, is of a contrary opinion : for that the an- cients had certainly the way of making artificial cameos; Qi which he fliew'd me feveral in his pofleffion j and made me a prefent of a little one that was fo. This vafe contain'd the aflies of the emperor Alexander Se« verus, and was found in his tomb, within a vafe of porphyry, which is now in the Capitol. At cavalier Pozzo's we faw a copy painted in oil-colours by Nicola Pouffin, of the baflb-relievo's that are on it. With this vafe they fhew'd us an antique Jlatcra Romanes [Roman fleel-yard] with a bufl for its weight. There is a very pretty fountain in the middle of the falone,, bflow flairs,, looking to the garden. ROME. PAL. B A R B E R I N r. 293 A fort of trench goes along the back parr, and fide of the palace, and over one part of it is a bridge built by Bernini, in ^^j-. imitation of the ruins of an old one: it is very fafe palTifig over "^ \ it, tEo' by the appearance one would not think fo. A very ingenious perfon who v/as with us, and one who had Audied many years in Rome, arcliitedure as well as painting, (but had never happen'd to fee this bridge) was fome time before he could be convinc'd that it was not a real ruin ; lb well is it reprefented. As we were obferving this bridge, I happen'd to cafl my eye upon a marble inlcription in one of the walls of the trench, that keeps up die ground from tumbling in, which, large and fair as it is, may eafily efcape the fight of a traveller, unleis he be taken on purpofe to fee it, which we never were, tho' wc feveral times vifited this palace. It was the incredulity of my friend leading us to the further fide of the bridge, that gave me an occafion of efpying it. I fcund the infcription related to our nation, and fo I tranfcrib'd it, as follows. TI . CLAVDIO . C.ES. pontifici^'max'^^tr . p . IX . ^^'•£/^i" ';^;^^*''' COS . V . IMP . XVI .P.P. o iti'Jf^ti>r]^ ; f^ht^ -^*^. SENATVS . POPVL • Q.. R . QV'OD REGES . BRITANNIyE . ABSQ, VLLA . lACTVRA . DQMVERIT. GENTESQ.VE . BARBARAS PRIMVS . INDICIO . SVBLGERIT. This palace is built all upon Arong pillars and arches, {o. that from the front you may drive a coach under it, quite thro' into the garden, which is on the back- fide the palace. The Palace Horghcfe h very large ; the Ihape of it fomewhat Pal. Bcrc- refembles that of an harpficord. The principal part of it is "''■■■ built about a court, which has two portico's, one above another, with antique granite pillars, Doric and Ionic, and leveral antique ftatucs. On one fide it is extended to a very great length, with a villo through all the apartments, to a fountain at adilhntc from the palaic; 294 ROME. P A L. B O R G H E S E. palace : this fountain (lands upon another perfon's ground ; but the prince Borghefe was at the expence of making it, that his profpeft might terniinate upon a beautiful objedt. A bare catalogue only of the pidlures that are in this palace would fill a large volume. J fliall mention only a very few of them. ■f^ A celebrated pifture of Domenichini. The Ripofo diCaccia; 'tis of Diana and her nymphs repofing themfelves after hunt- 4- Ca^far Borgia and Macchiavel, an admirable pidure of Titi- an j by fome call'd a Raphael. A Laft Supper by Titian. X A Prefentation by Giacomo BafTan, excellently colour'd, has a vaft force of light and fliadow ; and the figures are gen- teel. A Magdalen by Han. Caracci. f- Albani's Loves, the round. The originals of thofe multi- tudes of prints we fee of them in England and elfewhere. There is a fet of the fame at Bologna, original too : i. e. a repetition of the fame defign by the fame mafter ; a pradlice frequent in favourite fL'.bje(fls. , r-, ,^ A Crucifixion, faid to be of Mich. Angelo j of which they A-iu'/i ini.jH,f tellthej^ory, already more than once mention'd. TheGraces hood-winking Cupid ; a fine pidure, by Titian j it has a glafs over it. A ritratto of Titian's School-mafler, painted by Titian him- fc'lf; a moft admirable pidture; great force and vivacity ; and a lovely chiaro ofcuro. The Temptation of S. Anthony, by Han. Caracci. I think my Lord Burlington has one of the fame. The three Graces, by Raphael, after the antique. Chrill carried to Burial, by the fame. The Marriage of S. Catharine, by Parmegiano, excellent. -4- A ritratto of Paul the Fifth [Borghefe] by Marcello Pro- vencialis di Cento 1609; a wonderful performance in Mofaic. The bits of llone are exceflive fmall, fo as to exprefs even fome fingle liairs of the beard, &c. and to mark out other the mi- nutefi: touches. And yet the general parts are kept broad and open, and well colour'd. One would think fuch a piece of work ROME. PAL. P A L A V I C I N I. 295 work would take up a man's life, or di fable his eves for an« other like attempt. I have feen feveral of his performances, but this I think much the moft capital. In the chamber where the prince fleeps after dinner, are pic- «*v tures of naked figures, and fome of them a little lafcivious. There is Adam and Eve by Giovanni Bellino. Leda, by Leonardo da Vinci. , Several Venus's of Titian. One of which is that fo often re- peated, where fome women are feen at a diftance, in another room, at a cheft, as if looking for fome linnen to cover her. The great duke has one, if not more of ihefe, and we have feen others of them elfewhere. There is a gallery, not large, but very richly adorn'd with marble, ftucco and gilding : it is pannell d with large lookin^- glafs, on which arc painted foliage and flowers, and Cupids playing among them, by Giro Ferri. In this gallery are two tine marble fountains. Along it are feveral heads of emperors and confuls, of porphyry, and other ftones, fct in niches. There is a parlour (with a large table of fome fine fort of alabafler in the middle) all painted round with landlkapes by Giovanni Francefco Bolognefc. It were endlefs to enter into further particulars of this moft rich and magnificent palace. The prince was fent viceroy to Naples after we came away. He is eileem'd a man of great abi- lities and worth. In the palace of the marquis Palavicini is a double ritratto : Pal- Palavi- 'tis of Carlo IVIaratti, painting that of the marquis. The burto of the marquis, by Camillo Rofconi, (the beft fculptor now in Italy ;) and the four feafons, reprefented by little boys, in white marble, by the lame. A great many other paintings by Carlo Marat, and many of Gafpar PoolTin; particularly a very fine fca-ftorm, with Jonah and the Whale. A naked Apollo crowning a youth playing on a fort of a harp- fichord, the firings fet upright ; a very fine pidure, by Andrea Sacchi. This pidlure was once copied by Pietro da Pietris, who was himfelf a great maftcr. A Prefentaiion, finely painted, in the chapel, by Pietro da Pietris. I In Clllb 2^6 ROME. PAL. CHIGI. In this palace is very rich furniture of velvet, embroidery, &c. Some of the paintings and fculptures of this palace have been fitlce brought into England. Pal. Chigi. The Palazzo Chigi has four lower rooms, all full of ftatues, and fome of them exceeding good. A very fine Bacchante. A Sil'enu?, efteem'd the beft of any that is known of that fuhjea A dying Cleopatra, fomewhat different from that of the Bel- vedere, &c. A Bacchus, drunk. A Diogenes, cujn pene infer digitos, qiiqfi miBurtis. It was part of the character of that philofopher, and others of his fedl, truly Cynic, to negleft and defpife all rules of decency, fo as not to ftick at doing any of the moft indecent aftions even in the moft publick places, and in the moft open manner. Several Gladiators; one particularly good. A head of Caligula, in porphyry. Tuccia, the veftal virgin, carrying water from the Tiber to the temple of Vefta in a fieve, to prove her chaftity, which was called in queftion. One may obferve in this ftatue an ex- preffion of fo much modefty, accompanied withfuchan affur'd in- nocence, as I have not feen in any reprefentation whatloever. I fiw in the Capirol, a pifture painted by Carlo Marat, of the fame fubjed. Tho' his be a fine picture, one may venture to fay how-ever, that 'tis pity he had not confider'd this ftatue, (to which he could be no ftranger) before he fet about that per- formance. There is a print extant of the picture I fpeak of, en- grav'd by Giacomo Freij. This palace is very large and noble, has a wo. 4d of pii5lures, anid very rich furniture of all forts. Pal. Vciofpi. -pj-jg p^ijce Verofpi (next door to this) has many fine ftatues, one of them ftands full in view of the entrance from the ftreet j 'tis a Hercules with a torch in his hand, fearing the necks of the Hydra whence he had cut off the heads. There is fom.e good painting in the cieling of a portico juft behind this ftatue. Pal Piom- In the Palazzo Piombino is the ftatue of the dying Mirmil- lo, well known by the copies and prints. It is an admirable ftatue. bino. ROME. P A L. S A N T A C R O C E. 297 Aatuc, but the fingers of the left hand look tuo regular, like organ- pipes. In the fame room are two baflb- relievo's, faid to be of Mich. Angelo; one of them nprelents Mofus flriking the rock. At the Palazzo Santa Croee are fome fine fculptures. There ^.'''- ^*"'* is a frieze in baiTo-rclievo, an apparatus for the facrifice of '°"' Suovetaurilia, or Solitaurilia, on occafion of finding the Sibyls b^oks in the fcpulchre of Niima Pompilius, Monte Janlculo. This facrifice was moll ufually made to Mars. It is reprcfen'ed thrice on the Trajan Pillar; it is feen alfo on Conflantinc's Arch, and elfewhere. And tlie feveral animals, the boar, the fhecp, and the bull, arc always, in fuch as 1 have obferved, led to facrifice in the fame order they are named in, except in this I am fpeaking of, at the Palazzo Santa Croce, where the order is inverted ; Fabretti, taking notice of which, and of fome other ditterences between this and other reprefcntations of the fame fokmnity, fays, it rather exhibits a preparation fo; the So- litaurilia, than a full celebration of the facrifice. — Praparalio" nem qiiandam potius quam Solitaurilia rite iiijlru£la exhibcrc diceii' dum cjl. The performance in this baflb- relievo is admirable. VVhen thefe facrifices were called Solitaurilia, they were un- derftood to confifl: of animals which were all mafculine and intire; i. e. not caftrated ; fc. a bo?.r, a ram, and a bull; the etymology b^ing taken ab integrita'.e gcnitalium ; for folum, in the Ofcan * language, is faid to have fignified the f:;me as to- * The old turn, integrum, JoUdum ; and touri, in the old Latin and Greek f^^^^^H^' too, the pirt taken away by caflration. V. Fcjii Antiq. /i^w. province of <-x Donpjterii emeiidatione, ]. iv. cap. xvii. CampaniH. Fabretti deduces a reafon for leading the animals to facri- fice in this order from Varro, lib. ii. cap. iv. de Re RujL who tells us that fwine were the firlt animals that were facrificed, and that from them (as fays Fabretti) facrifices even took their etymology. A fuillo pccorc immohindi initium primum fuinp- tum. And, Sus Greece dicitur u'<, oUin Ohn, ab ilh vcrh diclus, quod dicitur iCui', quod ejl immdarc. There is in- deed a plain relation between Sut^, a boar or fow, and flur/r, to facrifice ; but it feem.s by the words of Varro, that the ety- mology ought to change place, and that flui/r did not take its Q^q origin 298 R O M E. P A L. S P A D A. origin from 9u't/j, but rather gave that name to the animal, becaufe (lain in facrifice. Ovid gives us his realbn why this animal was the firft that was facrificed. — — — — prima putatur llojiia fus 7nerin[fe mori, quiafemina pando Eruerit rojlro, Jpemque interceperit anni. Met. xv. — — — — the delving fow. The firft offender, felt the fatal blow. For fpoiling of the crop, to death decreed, Murd'ring the harveft in the new-fown feed. By Far. Hands. A Bacchanal. A Bacchante towards the middle of it is a moft genteel figure ; and all the reft are very fine. Trimalcio, with his Gang waiting on him towards his Bed, fome bringing eatables, fome playing on mulical inftrumcnts, according to Petronius Arbiter's delcription. Another reprelentation of this gentleman is to be feen in the ^dfjiiranda ; taken from a baflb-relievo in the Villa Mon- talta. The famous vafe at Pifa is of the fame fubje<ft. Here are bufts of Seneca, Aratus, Alcibiades, [fo call'd, but not like others of him] Annius Verus, &:c. Pal. Spada. In the Palazzo Spada, is the great ftatue of Pompey moftly naked ; the right hand is extended, the left holds a loofe dra- pery up to his lide ; a fiiort fword tuck'd up among it. When this ftatue was found, it lay fo, that the head was on one man's ground, the body on another's. He on whofc ground the body lay, claim'd it, as having fb much the greater part ; fhe other claim'd it as having the more noble part, and that which fhewed whom it reprefentcd : each having thus a pretence, lie to whom the matter was referr'd, aajudg'd to each the part that lay on his own ground, fo the head was fawn off and given to one of the claimants, the rtit to the other. The Pope hearing of the wife decifion, bought of each of them his feve- lal Ihare, and liad thciu join'd. again. This is Ficaroni's ac- course; ROME. PAL. G U A L T I E R I. 299 count of the matter : and thus he accounted to us for a viable learn th it goes acrofs the neck. There are other fine things in this palace; feme antique baflo-rclievo's. Perfeus watering Pcgafus. Morpheus with poppies about his head, white marble. He is generally feen in black marble, as more alluding to night. A Bambino Rovtano (as they call it) col Mantel/o ; a Roman boy, with a cloak. A boy with a bcrctta [cap] who ferv'd at the Bacchanal feafls, with a fkin over his flioulder?. A Venus, cloath'd, and Cupid. Seneca fitting. Scipio Africanu;;, and Septimius Severus, biifts. In a little gallery are fome figures in flucco, faid to be bv Dan. da Volterra. Ganymede, &c. painted on the cieling, Iccms to be of the fchool of Mich. Angelo, tho' call'd there Giovanni Bellini. Another room, ftucco as above, and paintings in the Flo- rentine manner. In the great gallery is a moft admirable ritratto of cardinal Spada, a whole-length figure, fitting ; by Guido. The Rape of Helena, by the fame. Mafl"jnicllo's Revolution in Naples, by Mich. Ang. da Bat- talia. Two fine Claude Lorains. Other landfkapes by Gafp. Poufiln. Several ritrats bv Titian ; and other good picflures. There is a fine view from this gallery of the Fonte Janiculo. Tlie palace of cardinal Gualtieri, tho' not very remarkable Pal. Gual- upon other accounts, (at lealt fo much of it as we faw) is a ma- ""'• gazine of learning and curiofities. Befides the library, which confifts of four large rooms, there is a fuite of eighteen more fill'd with variety of curious things of feveral forts. In the firfi are bufts and infcriptions upon marble, fepulchral and other. Upon an ojjuanum (of which there are great num- bers) is writ an adjuration that you do not violate it, in thefe words— PFR DEOS SUPERCJS INFEROSQUE TE. ROGO NE OSSUARIA VELIS VIOLARE. M. CALPHURNIUS. (^_q 2 M. 300 ROME. PAL. GUALTIERI. M. L. SULLA CALPHURNIA. M. L. FAUSTA LIBERTA. There is an antique bairo-relievo of Ariftotle in profile ; he has a long beard, with a Phrygian bonnet on his head. Under it is written apistotfahs- In the fecond, idols and other antique figures in copper, marble, &c. Among them is the Judgment of Paris in cop- per ; it is fmall, and only two of the goddeffes are there. Li the third, antique inftruments, fome ufed in facrifice, fome on other publick occafions, and fome in common life. There is a fragment of an old triumphal chariot. In the fourth, urns, fome Greek, in terra cotta, found at Nola. Several old Etrufcart urns, fome with baifo-relievo's. Some glafs velTels which were within the marble urns, with figures done in gold on the infide. Alfo vota, fome in marble, others in terra cotta, &c. which they hung up in their temples : heads, hands, feet, and other parts. Among them is a Natura Foeminina. Two little pieces of antique frefco, Diana and Mars, found at Tivoli. In the fifth, curiofities antico-moderne. A Genius, antique, frefco, fomewhat after the manner that they defcribe the che- rubs now-a-days. A ritratto of Mafianiello. In the fixth, diflies of feveral forts of earth, and modern urns. In the feventh, mixt curiofities. An antique Venus, in ame- thyft ; 'tis a buft, fixteen inches high, twelve broad. An Europa painted by Guido. In the eighth, curioiities, moftly modern, kept in cabinets. There is an antique Bacchanal in ivory. In the ninth, Indian, Perfian, and other idols. In the tenth, China vi'are, which when firll plac'd there, was undoubtedly a great rarity, and may poflibly be moll: of it a greater now, fince they have for fo many years made that work far (hort of what they did formerly. Our ladies know how to put a iuft value upon old China- 5 ^^ ROME. PAL. MATT HE I. 301 In the eleventh, great variety of matliematical inilruments. In the twelfth, globes, fpheres, charts, &;c. In the thirteenth, optical inilruments of various forts. In the fourteenth, anatomical curiofnies. In the fifteenth, mummies, crocodiles, fidics, feveral land- animals; and other natural curiofities. In the lixteenth, corals in great variety, very curious; and Ihells of bcautiiul colours and iliapes. In the fcvcnteenth, all forts of marble. In the eighteenth, ores of all forts, with other minerals. Petrified iTculls; one with a viper twiAed in it, which is petrified too. This cardinal was, when living, the protector of the Englidi nation : for all nations have their protedlors among the cardinals. At the Palazzo Matthei are fome very fine fculptures. ^^^- ^latthci Ifidis Pompa, b. rel. It reprefents a proceffion for an M- gyptian facrifice to that goddefs. A print of it is to be feen in the yldiniranda, N"* 16. Some itatues of emperors, naked, in poftures of gladiators. A bal'. relievo of the Praetorian foldiers conAihing, dreiled in fliort tunicks, and having upon their arms long bucklers. The temple of Jupiter Fulminans, and a bull adorn'd for fa- crifice, with the pope?, and other miniflers. A noted bafib-relievo of Venus newly fprung out of the fea; flie is held up on a concha marina between two Tritons. This, with the other parts of the fame balfo-relicvo, is to be ietn in the Admiranda, N" 30. So 1 l\jrbcar adding any more about it. On the ftairs, are huntings of lions, i^z. in ballb-rclievo, inferted in the wall, &c. In an open gallery looking into the court is an ancient Sar- cophagus, with a reprefentation upon it of a vintage, and of the facrifice of a goat to Priapus. Priapus holds fruits in the lap of his Ihirt, with a circumftance ufual in the reprefenta- tion of that deity. Several b. relievo's The Rape of Proferpina. The three Graces, with Cupid and Pfyche embracing. There 302 ROME. PAL. G I U S T I N I A N T. There are two pillars, the capitals vphereof are bafkets, with eagles at top. Thefe bafkets muft certainly De an aliulion to what is laid to be the original of the Corinthian capital, which is very well known. In the publick Piazza near this palace is a fountain with good figures in brals, by Carlo Siciliano. :'jl. GiuftU The Palazzo Giuftiniani is another of the palaces of great liiiii. rank: it has a world of piftures ; and for number of ftatues and ballb-relievo's does at leaft equal any in Rome. The keeper of the Barberine library fhew'd us two large volumes of prints after them ; which to me feem'dbut mode- rately perform'd. There are feveral of the fame in England. One gallery is fet round with a double row of ftatues. There are indeed fome indifferent ones among them ; but others very good. A head of Vitellius, good. A buft of Julius Ca;lar, with feveral others of the emperors. A figure with a Phrygian mitre : as I remember 'tis an Har- pocrates. a. The famous ftatue of Minerva, moft highly valued, as being the fame that was worfhipp'd in her temple [where is now the S. Maria fopra Minerva.] They fny the youth of Rome us'd to come and kifs the hand of this Itatue before they went to their fchools. A veftal virgin. The upper part of this ftatue is much better than the lower j the drapery hangs down from her mid- dle perpendicular, and looks like the flutings of a pillar. Hercules with the dragon ; and apples in his hand. iEfculapius with the ferpent. There are two or three more of thefe. A Bacchante. The defign is very fine, but the execution not corredt ; therefore probably a copy, tho' antique, from fome noted original, which is now loft. Diana, with a dog, as in the ad of ftiooting ; but the bow i-s broken off. A fine buft of Apollo ; under it the harp and tripod, fmall. ^ A fine head of Jupiter, large, the manner very grand. Another buft of Apollo, a fine face. The countenance of thefe Apollo's, and many elfewher°, have more of female de- licacy ROME. PAL. G I U S T I N I A N I. licacy than what is common even to young men. The hair of thefe is rais'd like that of women. Tlie Apollo in the Bel- vedere is very much fo. A young Marcus Aurelius, a whole figure. Two fcenical masks, fine. — There are an infinity of thefc {cen on the antique lamps, and fome excefiively comical; but thefe I fpcjk of, are in a fine talle. A fine Bacchante with grapes. Cleopatra, with the viper about her arm, in the poOure of Venus coming out of the fea. — A copy of this is over-againll it, by Bernini, as they told us, with the addition of a fmall. cup in her hand. Bufts of Pindar, Plomer, Socrates, and others. Meleager, a whole figure, excellent. A large buck-goat ; a noble llyle, for fuch a fuhjcd.. A ram, with drapery on his buttocks. A priellefs, in Parian marble. In an out-place at the end of the gallery, is a vafe, with fi- gures in bafib-relievo upon it dancing, and one fitting under, playing on a fiute. In the apartments, there is one room furaifli'd all with pic- tures of Raphael, and his mailer Pietro Perugino, as they iay, but I doubted much of many of thofc theycall'd Raphael's. In- deed fome are hung at fuch a height, that one could not well judge of them. They are moflly Madonna's. In another room is a picture of Titian, of that favourite dc- i'ign wnich he repeated fo oltcn, the Woman with the Look- ing-ghfs. S. Paul the Hermit, and S. Antonio, byGuidoj a ravca bringing ihem bread. The Angel fetching S. Peter out of prifun, by Galardo Fiamingo; a light ab of a torch cumts in at the door of the prifon. A piece taken out of a wall, painted in oil upon plaifter; fomcwhat in the manner of Parmegiano : it reprefcnts a wo- man's head in the middle, an old head on one fide, and a boy on the other. Some of the flatues in the apartments are, Marfias excoria- ted, and Apollo v.ilh his flvin. A Hygitia. A Diana. 3^3 304 ROME. P A L. G I U S T I N I A N I. A Diana Ephefia Multimammea, with animals. Cybele is often exprefs'd much in this manner; the name they give her, when fo reprefented, is, v^va.itKr.^ aCTf;, [all-various na- ture,] but flie has the diftinguilhing addition of a caftl , or tower on her head, figures made up of thefe compofitions- •which join things wholly heterogeneous merely becaufe emble- matical, are no way agreeable to the eye. Two centaurs, a male and a female. A bufl of Innocent the Tenth. 1 think it was in one of the apartments of this palace that I faw a buft of a woman, which, inftcad of a rcpreientation of growing hair, had a perf.<5l Hone peruque very much in the fliapeofone of our bob peruques, and moveable, fo as to be taken off, or put on at pleafure. . In ah open gallery at the top of the great ftair-cafe, is the famous alto-relievo of Amalthea, giving young Jupiter goals milk to drink out of the horn of Achelous. The goats are play- ing about the rock on which the Jupiter fits, and behind him is a young fatyr playing on his pipes. This is in the Admiran- da, N*^ 26. Bellori, in his notes upon it, reckons the eagles which are at top as farerga, only put there for ornament : but, fure they have fome meaning; the eagle being the bird of Jupiter \Jovis a/es,] here is a young brood of them atten- dant upon their new-born mafter; and the ferpent, which is there, may poflibly reprcfent Achelous in his former- fliape ; who (as ftories tell us) was firft a ferpent before he became a bull. There are other ftatues. A fine Apollo, with the harp and pledrum. Titus the emperor. Septimius Severus. M. Aurelius, good. 4- On the lecond ftair-cafe is an admirable Apollo in alto-relievo. This is efteem'd one of the finefl things in this palace. A woman in baflb- relievo fleeping. There is one in the print of Raphael's Peft fomevvhat like it. ■ u A figure ea a panther, vvirh a garland of vine-leaves about the head, &c. An infcription under, Serapidi & IJldi facrum. In the court, is an old ballo-relievo on an altar. Her cult fa- crum, the Labours of Hercules, and a facrifice to him. A Roma Triumphans. A Roman ROME. PAL. COL O N N A. 295 A Roman conful fitting. Two Fauni on each fide of an altar. Two fi-^ures call'd gladiators; one has the other under him. The fwords (if they had any) are broke. A fine Hygieia, with the fcrpent and cup. On one lidc the Piazza de' S. Apoftoli, ftands the Palazzo P-il- Colcnn* Colonna, which by the appearance it makes on the outfide, dots not give you any rcafon to expedl the beauty, magnificence and elegance you find within. There are many noble apartments, and finely adorn'd every way. But, above all the reft, is that niofl: beautiful gallery, which furpalles all I ever law, not for length, (for it has little more of that than to give it the denomination of a g^lery) hut for the agreeable proportion, and graceful difnofition of all the parts of the vafe * itfclf ; and the richnefs, the fine choice, ' ■'^s they and proper adjuftment of the ornaments. of tiicAuer^ They lead you to it artfully enough, thro' a narrow blind corridore enlighten'd only by gelo/ie, as they call 'em, fmall lattices along one fide ; which, like a difcord in mufick before a full harmonious clofc, heightens the furprize, when you find yourfelf immediately in one of the mofl glorious galleries in the world. The cieling is vaulted, and painted in frefco : the fiibjccn: is the hifiory and exploits of feveral of that noble family, particularly the vidlory of Marc. Antonio Colonna over the Turks in the Levant. The frames of the windows are of marble, and between them are pilafters of giallo antico, a fort of yellowifli marble, highly cflccm'd ; the order is, the Compofite : the capitals arc of white marble. Military trophies of ftucco gilt run up each fide of thefe pilafters. The cornice, which goes round the top, is all gilt likewife. At proper diftances are pannels for pic- tures, fiU'd with thofe of the bcft mafters. The fioor is, of all I ever faw, the fineft in all refpcd:s. The choice of the feveral forts of marble, which makes the pavement, is judicious and happy, the feveral colours let off one another perfedly well : there is juft fo niuch variety of forts as to di- vert the eye, not to confound and diftradt it : a fault which I have often obferv'd in the mixture of too many forts of R r marble. 3o6 R O M E. P A L. C O L O N N A. marble. The feveral pannels or compartiments, into which it is divided, are fine and large, the defign is great, and difpos'd with a noble gufto. Lovely marble tables, with antique ftatues, buds, and other valuable and rich furniture, are plac'd in the molt agree- able manner all along on each fide. At each end is a fort of lobby, or entrance, of the fame breadth with the gallery, and adorn'd after the fame manner, with paintings on the cieling, &c. Thefe have their commu- nication with the gallery by a large opening, arched at the top, and grac'd with magnificent pillars, of the fame materials and order with the pilafters I mention'd before. By the time you have pafs'd through this beautiful gallery, and are got to the further end of the fartliLfl: lobby, and turn back to take a review of it, they have open'd a door at the other end, beyond the place where you firfl enter'd, which difcovers a part of the garden, where as you at once look thro' the lobby you ftand in, the gallery, the lobby at the ether end, and the gar- den, you have a fountain there, which terminates the view. There is in this palace another gallery, (a little one) all paint- ed with geographical charts, fomewhat in the manner of that very long one in the Vatican. In a room adjoining is a bed, in the form of a co?2c/ia ma- rina, [fea-fhell] with four fea-horfes at the corners, Nymphs and Zephyrs at the fides, with flying Cupids above. They are of wood, all gilt over. This bed was made at the birth of the prefent prince Colonna, for the princefs his mother to receive her company upon that occafion, where flie fate like a Tethys or an Amphitrite. In one apartment are filver flower-pots, with baflb-relievo's, finely done, after defigns of Raphael. At the top of the llairs, facing the door of the great hall, is a head of Medufa in porphyry, which was found in the ruins of Nero's golden houfe, to which they have given this Infcription, hi hac aured domo memoriam Ne^-ojiis Iiabes, non fa£la j Medujce caput, noii damna ; momimcntum huic Jalo datum placare Mcdufas, nonfcrre Neroncs. « In ROME. PAL. C O L O N N A. 307 " In this golden lioufe, you have a memorial of Nero, not *' his adions : the head of Medufa, not her mifchicfs ; a mo- " nument, tliat to this ground it is granted, to make Mcdula's " harmlefs, and not to fuffer Nero's." Dcfides the numerous fine paintings, which are in the fcvcral apartments above, there are a great many in the I'ummer- apartments below, witli llatues, bulls, baflb- relievo's, and plcu- fant fountains. One of thefe apartments is painted in frcfco with land/lcapef, by Gafp. Poufin : and another, with lea-llorms, by Tem- pera. There is likewif.; a wrcath'd pillar of roJJ'o-antico with little figures and foliage. Among the b. relievo's, is that mofl: curious one of Homer's apotheofis or confecration. It is to be fecn in the ^dmiramia, toward the latter end ; (o \ forbear enlarging on it here. There are two or three afcents of g.irdcns behind this palace. Here were the baths of Conftantinc, (as has been faid); and part of an old aquedu(Sl ferves now as a wall to part of the garden. Here was likewife a temple dedicated to the fun, of which fome vafl fragments a re now to be (cen in one of the upper ^ garHeril^ A piece oT a cornice, with the modiglions, 6cc. al- \~ moft twelve foot fquarc, all of one piece. A piece of a Corin- thian capital of a vafl fize; part of this was lately favv'd off. Part of an architrave and frieze, both of one ftone, almofl: fixtecn foot long, all of white marble. At the acceflion of Innocent XIII. this prince made a mufical entertainment in his garden. The mulick was upon two bridges which lead fro.m the palace over a publick ftrect to the garden. The orange-trees were hung with lamps put in the hollow'd rinds of oranges, and ftuck :imong the branches, as growing fruit. During the intervals of the mufick, the fireworks were played off at each end of the garden. Thefe princes, the Colonna's, by virtue of their otliceof con- ftable [contcjiabile, or corner JIauilis, as I have fomewhcre fccn it in Latin] affift at fome of the publick ceremonies, at the right hand of the pope. R r 2 This ciano. ■308 ROME. PAL. BRACCIANO. This is a very noble family, and has produced feveral popes, cardinals, and generals, whofe ritrats are hung in the great hall on each fide the bahliuhiito, or canopy of ftate. Befides other great revenues, the whole town of Marino is theirs, where ihey have another fine palace. In the fame Piazzo dc' S. Apoftoli, oppofite to the palace I Pa!. Brae- \'\'^'^<^ been fpeaking of, is that of the Duca di Bracciano, built by Bernini, lately a fingular treafnre of paintings, as it is ftill of fciilptures, with which the fummer-apartments, confifting of four ground-rooms, are finely fiil'd. The paintings were purthas'd by the then regent of France, and carried away while we were in Rome. Such a beautiful fight of Corregio's I never faw, as were in this colledtion : — but, as thefe, and the reft of thofe admirable pictures, have now ceas'd to belong to the palace I am here fpeak- ing of, I fliall not enter into particulars of them : — they are now to be feen nearer home : and to a true lover of fuch things, it were well worth a voyage to France to fee fuch fingular ma- fter-pieces : feveral of them, they fay, did belong to our king Charles the Firft, and were, after his death, bouglu and car- ried hence by the queen of Sweden, and after her deceafe, came into the hands of the family Odefchalchi [nov/ dukes di Bracciano.] — They are now got pretty well on their way back again towards England, where every English virtuofo cannot but wifh to fee them fafely lodg'd. I fhall only mention one of the pidlures, which is faid to be done by Mich. Angelo, and pafles for an original defign of his : — but it is not fo. — • I accidentally obferv'din the duke of Par- ma's colIe(flion an antique Cameo juft in the iame attitude : it is the rape of Ganymede : it is a fmall picture, and finely per- form'd. I have feen a larger one in England of the fame de- fign, and faid to be of Mich. Angelo likewife ; but 'tis nothing fo good as that I am fpeaking of. Among the ftatues, there is a dying [or fleeping] Cleopatra; much in the attitude of that in the Belvedere, and Villa dc Mt- dicis. Julius Caefar (landing in his facerdotal habit, as Poniifex Maximus. A Faunus with his pipe. A bull and a cow, antique, and moft excellently perform'd. Whether ROME. P A L. B R A C C I A N O. 309 Whether this may be taken as a proof of their excellence, I know not ; but a dog that \v.is with us, and was remarkable for his fubtlety and tunning, was deceiv'd by them as much as the birds were by the grapes of Zeuxis ; for he bark'd eagerly, Sec the Ad. as if he was going to fallen upon them. acnda. Thefe are faid to have been made in allufion to the cow and bull that drew the plow, with which the foundation of Rome was mark'd our. This ceremony in the marking out the foundations of cities was taken from the old Tufcan^, whofe country, Etruria, is called the Mother of Superftition, [ylrnobius adv. Gent. 1. i.J The method of it was this : they yoked a bull and a cow toge- ther, the bull on the right, the cow on the left, or inner fide : it was called inner, bccaufe the courfe the plow took, was to- wards the left, by that means turning the turf to the left or inner, and leaving the furrow on the right or outer fide : the compafs being thus mark'd out, the foundation of the wall was laid within it. He that held the plow was cinSlus ritu Ga~ bino, " girt after the Gabine manner j" which, according to fome, was with the toga [gown] thrown over the left fhoulder, the right being bare; according to others, part of it covered th^i head, and the refl: was girt about the body, and drawn up and Ihorten'd by the cindure. [See Servius upon the fifth and k- venth iEneids.] Fabretti, from an old Greek MS. gives u? an account of a conceit which was couch'd under the yoking the cow and bull, in this manner. " That the male was yoked on the fide to- " ward the country, the female on the fide towards the town; " as denoting that the males (hould be terrible to foreigners " the females fruitful to the inhabitants; «Vs rl^ yXv a.j>fiva.( tSu In the next room are, Apoilo and eight of tiie Mufes ; tlie ninth is in the Capitol. The Mufes are antique, but not of the higheft tafle. The Apollo is modern. Behind his back is Pegafiis, painted in frefco on the wall. Between each of the Mulcs aie antique pillars, of feveral curious forts of marble, with bufts on the lops of them. In the following rooms are, Clitia, with the fun-tiower lato which flie was transform'd. 4 Two 3IO ROME. PAL. ROSPIGLIOSI. Two beautiful figures, called hy {owe, Caftor and Pollux, by others, two Hymens, by reafon of the torches in their hands. By thefe ftands a little figure, holding an egg in her hand ; which tho(e of the former opinion call Leda ; thofe of the latter, fuppofe it to be a Lucina, or fome goddels prefiding over women in child-bearing; and that the egg is no other than an emblem of fecundity. A moft beautiful Venus, in the attitude of that of Medicis, cloath'd with a delicate thin drapery, moll agreeably conform- ing with the naked, and even fhewing thro' it the form of the parts it covers. Another beautiful Venus, as coming out of the bath. One of the Ptolemy's, king of Egypt. A faun, with a young goat on his back, admirable. A round altar of white marble, with a moft curious baflb- relievo upon it, reprefenting a facrifice to Bacchus. It is to be feen in the Admiranda, fol. 44. and 45. There is the fame defign, but with the addition of one faun upon a large and beautiful vafe, in the Villa Giuiliniani. This has more marks of age, and is probably the original, but the other is antique too, and admirably perform'd. Pal. Rofplgli- In the palace of duke Rofpigliofi, is a fine pidture of Nic. Pouflin, reprefenting a dance, and Time playing on a harp. A Crucifixion, by Guido; with a fine marble buft under it. S. Peter in Mofaic, by Ph. Cocchus. The guardaroba told us that a thoufand crowns had been lent upon it. There "are fome antique paintings, but of no great ftyle :— . they look like Indian. On the cieling are painted the Rapes of Jupiter and Europa, Neptune and Theophane, Pluto and Proferpina. ■There is a fine bafon of verd antique two yards diameter; and a table of fine oriental alabafter. At the garden-houfe, on the outfide, are fome good antique bafiTo- relievo's, huntings of lions, &c. On the cieling of the portico is the famous Aurora of Gui- do, fo well known by the copies and prints of it that are in England. At the ends of the fame portico are the Triumphs of Love and of V^irtue ; by Tempefta. Within oil ROME. PAL. PAMPIIILIO. 311 Within the apartments of the gardcn-lioufe are, An Andromeda by Guide, the fame as the duke of Devon- f 3^ >J-^/'- fliire's ; the colouring is warmer than that of his grace's : but I know not whetlier 'tis better for that or no, or whether a fomcwh.it colder colouring do not full as well fuit a figure in i'uch a fituation ; expos'd n;iked, chain'd to a rock in the fca, expcdting every moment to be devoured by a horrible monfter, which advances towards her with dreadful wide-open'd jaws : the colour of the (a is turn'd blackifl). Sampfon pulling down Dagon's Temple upon the Pliili- nines. M: PtuJ/ji David with Goliah's Head, In this piece Saul is tearing his garment as in vexation to fee David win the hearts of the people. Adam and Eve; he is giving her leaves to cover her naked- nefs. The Adam and Eve arc by Domenichini; the animals by Piola. S. Peter Mattyr, by Preziani. He is writing Crt\h on the ground with his finger dipt in his blood. Rinaldo and Armida, by Albani. In the great and noble palace of prince Pamphilio are abun- Pal. Pamphi- dance of tine paintings, by Titian, Han. Caracci, Guido, Lan- ^'^• Iranc, Pietro Pjrugino, and others, which I will not trouble the reader with particularizing. There are portraits of the two famous lawyers, Barlolo and Baldo, by Raphael. A very fine S. Catharine, by Benvenuto da Garofalo. The ritratto of Innocent X. who rais'd this family, by Don Diego Velafques, [a Spaniard] half-length, very boldly painted. Another of Donna Olympia, that pope's lifter-in-law, fa- vourite, and governefs, by Scipio Gaetano. For a full ac- count of this famous lady, fee her life written by the Abbate Gualdi. Among thofe by Han. Caracci, is a Sufanna and the Elders, 4- the fame defign as that of the duke of Devonlhire's. Two very fine and large Claude Lorains : one of them repre- fents the Setting-fun ; a moll lively repole ! Other landfkapes by Gafpar PoufTm, Paul Brill ; and feme mofl elaborate brughelU. — But of thefc, enough. Over 312 ROME. ROM AN COLLEGE. Roman Col- Over againft this palace is the Roman College [Jefuits,] lege. where are two long galleries, meeting in a right angle, with repofitories of curiofities and antiquities from one end to the other. There are a good many trifles among them, but the greateft part are very curious. The co]lev5tion was firfl. begun by father Kirther, but much increafed by father Bonanni, who has publiflied a large account of them in feveral books. There are great numbers of urns, infcriptions, baffo-relie- vo's, fepulchral lamps, and lachrymatory veilcls : abundance of ava.^n[JL<tTa. Qv 1-ota to the heathen deities, in marble, and other materials. The habits and weapons of war of feveral remote nations. Inftruments for facrifice, and other utenfils of the antient Romans. The habits of all the very numerous religious orders of both fexes that are at this day, very prettily and freely painted, much about the fize of the prints that are done after them, and pub- liQi'd in father Bonanni's books upon that fubjecfl. An infinity almoft of other curiofities, artificial and natural, which are defcrib'd and explain'd by that learned fatl^er, in his feveral volumes. He is communicative and obliging, more in- deed than a man almoft worn out with labours and years could be expefted to be. Cardinal AU Cardinal Albani's collection of ftatues, bufts, and baflb- bam's collec- relievo's, is very valuable. They are (I think) the property of cardinal Alellandro, the younger brother, for there are two of them, both cardinals, nephews to Clement XL The elder is Annibale, who was made camerlingo [chamberlain] in the time of that pope. It is the cuftom in the court of Rome for a new-eledled pope, foon after his acccflion, to raife to the degree of cardinal, a nephew of that pope who had made him one So Don Alellandro Albini (for fo he was call'd before) was rais'd to that dignity by Innocent XIIL who himfelf was rais'd to it by Cle- ment XL Some of the things I noted in the fine colledlion I have mention'd, are as follows. Otho, a head ; rare, as are his medals, a natural confequence of fo fliort a reign. A tion. .^%-/V' //<!/ ^// /?/^/ ^'/^ R0M1-. CARD. ALBANl's COLLECTION'. 31; A Cieftiarius* with a defence on his head rcprefenfing iron- p'ates, crofling one another ; or, perhaps, thongs of leather : this is erteem'd rare too. One making a will [ba(To-rclicvo ;] a reprcfentation of th.s fame pcrfon's head, with a round frame about it, in ihe lame piece. * ■ • ' Ptrfcas taking Andromeda by the hand, to aflift her dcfcent from the rock, the fea-monfter lying dead under; a fine bafio- rclievo. There are others of the fame defign in Rome ; one I remem- ber particularly, at one end of that ballb-relicvo, at the Palaz- zo Matthci, .already mention'd j wherein is the Venus newlv fprimg out of the fea. Here is likewife a Copia, .'Egyptian,' a whole-length figure. An urn of oriental alaballer fix'd vyithin a large vafe, with fomc cement at the bottom. A boy, with a great old malic on his head, his hands wrap'd in the heard. — This was found at Antium. Antiflhenes, a whole-length ftatuc. Two buds of Plato. Alexander with a helmet, and armour ; fine ornaments or them. Pyrrhus, in alto-relievo. Pudicitia, [fo call'd by Ficaroni] with a garland of bays, the berries on it; her hands wrap'd in the drapery; finely pre- fcrv'd. Vcniis, the fame as that de Medicis; the upper part antique and fine; the lower, modern. A Ivjft of Sappho : the great duke has another of her very like this. Ifis, or a prieflefs of hers, a whole figure, /F.gyptian, with the Ji/.'nufi in her right hand, and a vafe for the jjua lujiralis in her left. The figure of a /ijirum is here prefentcd, as it is feen in the flatue I fpeak of: the crofs-wyres were loofe, which they ihook backward and forward to make a rattling noife. Tiie great duke has a real antique yiy?rK/// at Florence, in much the fame figure with this. s f in? 3!4 ROME. CARD. ALBANI's COLLECTION'^ Ifn & irato fer'iat mea lumlna Jijho, Dummodo vel ccecus tejieam, quos abnego^ mimmos. Juv. Let Ifis' AX\gTy Jijlrum finite my eyes, So I, tho' blind, may keep the forlworn priae- • Thefe nm^iAPOC *, a buft. names ye EniKOTTos *. The fice of tliis IS 3 o-Qod deal like what W2 under tae re- - - _ '-> fpeftive bu!!s, lec of Socratss. in Greek let- ASKAHOIAi^HC* ifave written Mivc. Aurelius Anatellon^ them. Scipio Africanus. Diogenes. Euripides : two of them. Homer: four of them. ^All thefe are fomcwhat like the famous Farnefe. — One of them comes pretty near it in good- nefs. Zeno, a long face with a beard. A Pompey, no beard, the face rather full and roundirti than- otherwife. My lord Malpas has a fine buli, which has a good deal of general refemblance to this, but fomewhat thinner and older. Sylla. Fauftina, fenior. An ^Egyptian balTo-relievo.. It rcprefents, to the bed of my memory, an Ifidis Pompa, " A ProcelTion in honour of Ifis." Hadrianus, and Sabina his emprefs. Six curious bufts of the Antonine-family, found fome time fince at a villa of prince Ciefarini [call'd Villa Antonina] at CitaLavinia nearGenfano. Thefe fix bufts reprefent Antoninus Pius ; Marcus Aurelius ; the fame when young J Fauftina junior, his emprefs. Annius Verus, with the latus clavm ; (o call'd by Ficaroni^ Of the latus chivus, more will be faid hereafter. A young Commodus. Thefe are all exceeding beautiful, and in perfetl prefervation. Signor Ficaroiii told us they were all found in feveral niches in one room pav'd with Molaic, and that he faw them there : that they were at that time (as indeed they ilill continue) all frefh and no way damag'd. Princs. HOME. PAL. RUSPOLl. 315 Prince Cx'larini had a favour to afk. of Clement XI. and made his way by prefcnting thefe bufts to his nephew. That prince Jiad no occafion in the fucceeding pontificate for fuch methods j he then became [by affinity] a pope's nephew him- fllf, his princefs being niece to Innocent XIII. There is a curious buft of Cdligula, in a ftone called baffultCy very hard, and o( an iron colour. Domitianus and Domitia : the medals of Her arc very rare, and of great value. Nero, — Nerva, and fome others of the emperors. The buds of philofophcrs in this colledion are fifty-five ia number. There are feveral Sarcophagi with fine baflb-relievo's ; one of them is a boar-hunting, very fine. A lynx cut in a fort of llone they call pavonazza, which is naturally fpottcd, and has a very agreeable efiedt in the reprefen- tation of this fpottcd animal. Befides thefe mention'd, there are a great many others, very curious and valuable. They were not, when we faw them, fdt up in the cardinal's own palace : the gallery defign'd for them not being ready. In the Palazzo Rufpoli is a long vifto of rooms very noble, Pa!. Rnfpoli. with double door-cafes of giaiio ant'ico. Many of the rooms are painted in frrfco, cielings, and walls. 1 he great flairs are of Greek marble, each of one piece. In this palace are a great many antique ftatucs, bufts, and bjlfo-relievo's ; I ihall mention only a few. A large bufl of Nero. The three Graces. Julia Mammea, with a perfect bob peruque. Plautilla, with her hair tied up behind, jull as our ladies now tie up thcir's. A balTu-rclievo of a foldier taking leave of his wife, upon his going out to war; on one fide is a ferpent (the fymbol ot y*,rculapius) in a tree, as an augury of health. This piece is much ertcem'd by the curious. Silenus, and young Bacchus; two of them. Didius Julianus, a lawyer,, who bought the empire. Claudius J and Hadrian; both whole figures, Sfz Julia 3,a ROME. PAL. ALTIERI. : Julia Pia, wife of Septimius Severur, drefs'd as an lole, a whole figure. Several Faiini. Antoninus Pius, Commodus, and other emperors, frequent elfe where. Pal.Fiorenza. In the Palazzo Fiorenza, Campo Marzo, in the Conte de Fede's apartments, is a groupe of two figures (probably. Salma- cis and Hermaphroditus) exceeding fine. A head of Apollo^ and the trunk of the fame, feparate. A Terminus. All thefe were found not long fince in the Villa Hadriana, in the way to Tivoli, belonging to that count. Some portraits in oil, by Bernini, a bold mafterly manner :■. but fculpture was his excellency, as 'twas Mich. Angelo's. Several other good piftures and drawings. "Pa!.. Alikri. The Palazzo Alticri is a very large and magnificent flruc- hire. They fay there are in it three hundred fixty-five rooms. The flair-cafe is efleem'd the grandeft in Rome. The apart- iiients are very noble, and richly furnilh'd. The door-cafes are of Sicilian jafper. The cielings of fome of the rooms are painted by Cailo Maratti, Nicola Berettoni, and Francelco, or ^abricio Chiari, not known here fo v/ell as Giofeppe Chiari is.. One great hall has part of its cieling painted by Car. Marat,, but was never finifh'd : though there is a print extant of the whole defign, engrav'd by Giacomo Freij. There are a great- many fine pi'ffures, by Claude Lorain, Salvator Rola, Philippo: Laura, Borgognone, Paolo Veronefe, Andrea Sacchi, and othec great mafters. There is a ritratto of Titian, by himfelf. Another of a boy, one Domenico Jacovacci, faid to be of Raphael; but it feem'd to me more of Titian's manner. . ^ In one room is, what they call the grotta Jinta, a repre- fentation of a folitary retreat, as for ahermit; with rocks all round, and a cave for his repofe : the feveral parts are painted: on cloth, and difpofed in a fcene-like manner, romantick enough. ITal. Savelli, The Palaz-zo Saveili {lands within Vv-hat was the theatre of Marcellus, a confiderable part of which does now remain.. The fabrick is antient', as was the funi!)! (now lately extindl) which ij-.habited it, being dsfcended from the antient Roman SAbclli. R O M IL P A L. M A S S I M I. 317 Wc faw in the court of the palace fome antique baflb-re- licvo's, a fight of gladiators with a lion, bear, and tiger. Two Sarcophagi of marble, one with the labours of Ikr- cules, the other of a man combating a lion ; a deer under- ^ Death, A baflb-rclievo of Marc. Aurclius after his conqviefl of the Sarmatian?, and an embairador of theirs kneeling before him. This is much in the mmner of thole on the ihirs in one of tlu; wings in the Capitol, and is fiippos'd to have been taken from the Arcus Portugallia;, as thofc were. In the Palazzo Mafilmi are two curious pieces of antique ''•''• '"^I"^"'- IVIofdic, repreicnting combats of the Ret ian'i and Stxuiores *. * For an h.-.. In one of them are written the names of the combatants, Ca- ^°"^.'°'^'''^''^' , ,. 1 A n- 1 .- 1 • 1 T^ • • > 1 ICC Kennels lendio and Altianax ; the former bemg the Retiarius, and the Roniar» Ami- \.\nc'c xhit Sca/tof : and 'twas he that got the vidorv, as the 1"''''*- infcription tells us [/Jjtianax vicit ] tho' the other is rcprefented there to have fo much the advantage, as to have thrown his Bet quite over his adverfary. There are likcwife other Mofaics of gladiators, and one of a crocodile devouring a man. A fine Sacrifice in bailo-relievo. And Another baffo-relievo in Mofaic. Performances of this kind" are what we very rarely meet with. Some of the paintings that were found in the fepulchre of ihe Nafonian-family, commonly call'd Ovid's tomb. A curious fcpulchral urn of porphyry, with a cover, found within a large vii'e. Some of Pietro Santo Bartoli's dcfigns after the antique, finely copied by cardinal Mafiimi. There is in this palace a whole book of thofe done by Bartoli himfclf; but the keeper of them was out of the way, fo that we did not fee them. There is a ritratto by Raphael, two by Titian, and one by Guidoj and a ritratto of the cardinal, by Carlo Maratti, An i^lculapius, and Tcicfpliorus, with a drefs like a Ca- puchin. On the outfide of the boufe, is a Hunting in ballo- relievo, and paintings to the ftreet, by Polydore. In a portico within the court is a great ftatuc of Pyrrhus, in very fijic armour. There HOME. P A L. M A S S I M I. There is painted by Perino del Vaga in another portico, Ju- piter drawing up a groupe of figures by a rope or chain, which leem to be t!ie gods and goddeffes in Homer, whom Jupiter challeng'd to take one end of the chain while he held the other, defying them all to flir him from his place, and undertaking to draw them and the whole world at pleafure ; and then to fix the chain round the top of Olympus, and leave them all hanging at it. Macrobius makes a moral application of it in the following words— — Invetnetiir prcjjhis iiitiienti a fummo Deo itfque ad uhimam rerum faccm Connexio : & lute eft Howeri Catena Aiirea, qiuim pcndcre de ccelo in terras Deum P'JJ^Jfe .coinmemorat — ^—- " There will be found, by him that obferves " attentively, from the fupreme God, quite down to the •' meanefl of things here below, a connexion, which ties them " all together by mutual bonds, and is in no part broken, or " interrupted. And this is that Golden Chain of Homer which •" he mentions to hang down, by Jupiter's command, from hea- ." ven to earth." There is a fair fepulchral infcription in marble, which Signor Ficaroni made a prefent of to the marquis Camiilo Maffimi, at the digging up whereof he was prefent, and bought it of the workmen ; it was found in a field where they were plowing on tlie lide of the Via Latina, with The whole urn it belong'd to, and within the urn was a round vafe of alabafter, wherein among the burnt bones was a gold chain, two gold rings, and a gold medal of Alexander Severus. Signor Ficaroni was follicitous I fliould tranfcribe the infcrip- tion, that I might be a witnefs of his being in the right in his corredlion of the reading of this inicription, publidi'd by Fa- bretti, who has put SILIANO inftead of SITTIANO. The infcrip-tion, as I tranfcrib'd it, is as follov.'S. 2 DIS R O M E. C A P I T O L. jr^ DIS MANIBVS C . SEIO M . F QV'IR . CALPVRNIO QVADRATO SITTIAXO PROCOS. PROVING . NARBONENS . PRAET PEREGRINO TRI13.PLE1JIS QVAESTORI PROVING . AFRIG. iTl VIRO CAPITAI.I CVIVS CORPVS HiG GREMATVM EST. It appearing by the infcrlption that the body of this great perfoii was burnt in that place [Via Latina] and that a gold medal cf Alexander Scverus was found in the urn ; Ficaroni thence argues, that the pradice of burning of dead bodies continued after the tinic of the Antonines, (contrary to the common opinion of the antiquaries) for it was not till after the Antonines that Alexander Severus was emperor. In the houfe of the cavalier del Pozzo is a copy of the Nozze Aldobrandine, commonly called the Grecian Wedding, which I fliall take notice of in its proper place; and another,, of the figures on the Vas Barberinum,. both by Nicola Poullin : the latter is in chiaro ofcuro. The Seven Sacraments, and fcveral hiftorical fuhjecfts, by the fame author. Tie liv'd a confiderable time in this family. Be- fides the Seven Sacraments, and thofe already mention'd at Pari?, I was told there is another fet done by him in Rome, at the palace of the marquefs Buffalo, which I did not fee. I ihall conclude what I have been faying of the palaces, with Cai itol; fome account of that publick one of the Capitol : the place where the religion of the antient Romans made its moft rj)lcn- did appearance, and now the refidence of the publick jultice. The prefent Capitol (call'd by the people Campidoglio) iknds upon the fame hill where the famous old one was ; and part of it is built upon fome of the very fame foundations. The llruc- ture of this is very noble, chiefly defign'd by Mich. Angelo. The print that is extant of this ftately fabrick makes it need- lefii for me to be particular in tlic defcription of it. The ROME. CAPITOL. The marble trophies which grace the baUiftrade on the para- pet at each fide of the entrance, are commonly called the tro- phies of Marius : they were brought from the Caftello dell' Acqua Martia, to which they long ferv'd as an ornament, and were of late years, plac'd in the Capitol, ranging with the ftatues of Caflor and Pollux, the Colonna Migliaria, and other orna- ments. Bellori would change the long-receiv'd appellation, and en- deavours to prove them to be the trophies (not of Marius, but) of Trajan. Which he argues, firfl:, for that the Caftello dell' Acqua Martia was reftor'd and enlarg'd by Trajan : and farther, that the fculprure is of the manner of that emperor's time, and particularly of his pillar: that thefe trophies refemble thofe that are on the pillar, and that the particular fliields are the fame with thofe that are feen on feveral medals ftruck in honour of that emperor. But, in the arch at Orange likewife, which was certainly erec- ted in honour of C. Marius, the trophies are the fame as thefe ; the fliields, &c. of the fame manner : and on one of the fliields is infcrib'd [MARIO ;] as a friend of mine, who carefully obferv- ed thofe ornaments, has affur'd me. If therefore thefe Ihields, &c. do refemble thofe on the arch at Orange, as well as thofe on Trajan's pillar, that part of Btllori's argument is of lefs force: and fuppofc Trajan did repair the Caftello dell' Acqua Martia {tho' there is a difpute even concerning that matter) yet it does not neceffarily follow, that thofe mull: have been his trophies which were plac'd there. Fabretti, in his learned remarks upon the Trajan pillar, de- livers his opinion firmly and vigoroufly, that thefe trophies are not to be afcribed to Trajan ; denying even the alTerted refem- blance between thefe, and thefe which are feen upon the pillar; and for goodnefs of work, will allow no comparifon between them ; fo thst, upon the whole, there does not yet appear any convincing reafon to the contrary, why the old receiv'd appel- lation of thefe trophies may not yet be continued. Theequeftral flat ue of Marpus Aurelius, in copper, is the finert now known to be in the world, and has the finell fitua- tion : it is placed in the midil of the piazza or area of the Capi- tolj from which exalted ftation the emperor feems to take a furvey R O M E. C A P I T O L. 321 fiirvey of the city, and with his liand extended to be now gi- ving laws to Rome. This noble iLituc in the midll of the area ; thofe of Cartor and Pollux, with their liorfes [coloflal] in white marble, on the fides, at the top of the afcent, and two ^Egyptian lions, wliich form two fountains at the bottom, witii the other orn.iments fo agreeably rang'd on each fide, domske the approach to this noble fabrick the mofl beautiful that can be iinagin'd. Within the wing, which is on the left hand as we enter the area, there is a court with a portico, in which they fhew'd us a fine Roma Triumphans, of Greek marble, fitting, which is the pofture they always give this figure : they told me it was twen- ty Roman palms high * ; but I did not meafure it. iiome in- • A Roman confiderable parts had been broken off, and reilor'd, but the P'J^^^^^"" bulk of the figure is all antique, and of a great talte. This, Engliili. with fome other figures, was lately found in the vigmi [vineyard] of the duke of Acqua Sparta near S. Peter's. Three /Egyptian idols of granite, one male, the other two female, each twelve palms high, with obelilks at their backs, infcrib'd with hieroglyphicks. An Lis in dark-colour'd flone, fourteen palms high. The male and one of the females were all intire; the other female and the Ifis were broken, but have been repaired. Thefe had been found near the Porta Salara, about eight years before we firlf law them ; and were thence brought into the portico on the left hand -.bove-mention'd ; and were again remov'd, while we ftay'd at Rome, into a portico within the wing on the right hand : but I defcribe them from my notes in the fituation I firfl faw them. Within the court of the win^ where I flill am *, is Pafquin's 'That next old correfpondent Marforio, a figure reprefenting the river '"'^•^'*^'"=''- Rhine ; it lies along, leaning on one elbow, the moll common porture of the river-gods. It lay formerly before the temple of Mars in the Forum Romanum, and is fuppofed to have got itc name of Marforio, from Martis Forum, the name they gave to that part of the Forum which was next the temple ot Mar^. It is a coloffal figure, of a great ayle, and not fo ma!?gle i as his friend Pafquin. T t O.. 322 R O M E. C A P I T O L. On the ftair-cafe of this wing are two fine mezzo-relievo's, taken from the Arcus Portugalliae, which is now deftroy'd : they reprefent part of the ftory of Marcus Aurelias, with the apotlieofis or confecration of Fauftina. They are pubhfli'd in the Veteres Arcus Augujlonim. Another mezzo-reHevo, ■ fuppofed to have been taken from the lame arch, and contain- ing another part of the fame emperor's ftory, I have before mention'd to be in the Palazzo SavelH. Above ftairs on this fide, is a fuite of rooms, the length of the whole wing, where are abundance of antique flatues and bufts. I (hall name only a few of them which I chiefly obferv'd. A fine ftatue of Agrippina, with the young Nero. The hurts of Plato, Alcibiades, Diogenes, and Archimedes. Apollo and Bacchus, whole figures. Bufts of Pan, Marcellus, Flora, Diana, Fauflina, Sappho, Hiero, Socrates: with feveral of the emperors, Tiberius, Tra- jan, Alexander Severus, &c. A fine flatue of the great Marius, who was feven times con- ful ; to whom were alcrib'd the trophies lately mention'd A Flora, Poppjea, Sabina, Adonis, one of the fibyls, [ex- cellent] whole figures. One which they call'd Heros Aventiims Herciilis flius ; it is no other than a young HercuJes with the ferpents in his hand, of a dark iEgyptian ftone. The wing on the right hand, as you enter the area, has within it a court, with a portico at the entrance into the court, as in the ether wing ; but in this they have added another por- tico at the further end of the court, which was finiih'd fo late- ly as while we were at Rome, and the figures before-mention'd to have been found at the Porta Salara were removed into it as loon as it was finifhed. In the firil: portico you enter into within this court, fland the fiatues of Julius and Auguftus ^Csfar, on each fide the entrance ; the former has a globe in his hand, v/hich they ex- plain to denote his dominion of the world. The other has what there they call a rofirum at his feet,, and what they would have to fignify his viftory at Adlium over M. Antony and Cleopatra, which open'd him the way to the empire ^ R O M E. C A P I T O L. 32; empire; but, I rather take it to be a rudder: if Co, it may denote his being at the helm of governinent ; fleering and direding all affairs, as monarch of the world. A little beyond this, is that moft ancient monument, tlic Co- lumna Roftrata, ercdted as a trophy for Caius Duiliu?, after his fca-vi(5lory over tlic Carthaginians : the very antique in- fcription is preferv'd, but incompaflcd with work which is ma- nifeflly of a modern date i tho' there they pretend the neweft part to be as old as Augudus*. The infcription fcts forth the number of veflels that were taken from the enemy, togctiier with the booty of gold, filver, and heavy brafs [* CRAVE • C for C. CAPTOxM AES]; of the laft, the booty was two millions one hundred thoufand pound weight There is a D added to the end of feveral words ending in vowels, as PV^CNANDOD— ALTOD MA RID. FiJe Ciacconium de columna Rojlrata. Within this court are the fragments of a cololfal ftatue of Apollo, the two feet and part of a hand : I meafured one of the feet, and found it fix foot long — ex pcde Hcrculem. A coloflal head of Doinitian in marble, and one of Corn- modus in brafs. In the wall on one fide of this court arc inferred in a marble, brafs lines, exhibiting the ftandards of the prefent, and fome of the ancient meafures. The Greek and Roman foot, tho palm and canna now in ufe. A little further on the fame fide is a fine groupe of a lion and horfe in marble. Ficaroni I'uppofes this to reprefent the en- gagement of fome particular wild horfe with a lion in the amphitheatre, and that he had perform'd his part io well as to defcrve his Ifatue in marble; but the lion has got the better on't in this reprefentation, having faft hold of his flank ; and 'lis exprefs'd with a wonderful Ipirit. In the new portico, at the further end of this court, are the ^Egyptian flatues, -with the Roma Triumphans, already men- tion'd. • One mud be cautious how fine receives the accounts they give; foraetimcs they pivc you a wrong account merely thro' downright ignorance : fonictimcs, Oiily to fet off, ami raife your idea of the tiiinc they are fhtwing you : a: other timts tr.ey'il play tricks to found your depth, and try what lengths they may go with you. So thit in each refpeft t.^ well for a man to be upon his guard. 5 T t 7. On 324 ROME. C A P I T O L. On the ftairs going up to the apartments of this wing, are four large and fine mezzo-relievo's, in white marble, part of the ftory of Marcus Aurelius. They are to be fcen in the Ad- 7mranda towards the beginning of the book. The great hall above ftairs is finely painted by the cavalier- Arpinas, the fubjefts are the Rape of the Sabine women, the Battle of the Horatii and Curiatii, and other parts of the an- tient Roman hiflory. In the apartments within this hall are, The Wolf, in copper, fuckling Romulus and Remus : there: is a breach in the kit thigh of the wolf, which they fay was. made by lightning; and they do aver this to be the fame ftatue which was in the old Capitol, and is mention'd by Cicero as flruck by lightning in his time. The paffage they mean, I fup- pofe, muft be that in the third oration againft Cataline, where fpeaking of oihtr portcnta [prodigies] he introduces this pafiage with a particular ftrefs — — TaElas ej] etiain ilk qui hanc iirbem cojididit Romulus; quern inauratiim in Capitolio parvian atqiie lac^ tent em uberibus lupijiis inhiantem fiiiffe meminijlis " The " Romulus, founder of our city, was ftruck likewife by the " fame lightning, I mean that gilt one you remember in the " Capitol, reprefenting him a little fucking child, ftretching " his lips towards the dugs of a wolf." Thefe words indeed, feem to point at the perfon of Romulus, but that may be onl}i by fome fuch figure as that of Virgil, ■Proximus ardet Vcalegon- Whereby it is not neceflary to fuppofe that the perfon of Uca~. legon was touch'd : and this whole flatue or groupe might well enough go by the fingle name of Romulus, as we fee the Laocoon in the Vatican, and the Toro in the Farnefe. And- this, I think, favours lefs of an impofture, than if the wound were feen in the perfon of the babe, which, had it been inten- tionally .made to correfpond with the .words of Tully, it is more likely it would have been. I do not remember to have obferv'd any gilding on it, but that might eafily be fuppos'd to have been worn off in fo long a trad ROME. C A P r T O L. 3? trai^t of time. Thu^ much may Ik offlrVl on one fide. Biiti On the other fu'x, Is there not another ohjcrtion nrjTlnfl this being ihc (htue /pokcn of h. Tiilly ? — Th;it it was dtlboy'ii hy tJic hghtning 1 own the ^/em Uberihus lupinis inhian^ tern FUISSE MEMiNisTis fuits hotter with a ftatue that was de- fiic'd at leaft, than with one wherein Jlomuliis Hill continued, and might be feen every day in the lame poflure and adion. There is likcwife a further dlllk-ulty arifing from the place- where, according to (bmc, this groiipe was found; viz. In the ruins of the Ara Maxima in the Forum Bo.irium. And this- objedlion would have a great weight, could it be prov'd that it was originally an ornament to the Ara Maxima, never plac'd- in the old Capitol, nor brought from thence to the Ara Maxi- ma, as it has been fince from the Ara Maxima to tlie I'.cw Ca- pitol ; but if thefe objedions have more weight than the other liippoiitions, we muft e'en give up this circumllance, how dear foever it may be to the antiquarie?, and who can help it? Tnere is likewife a very hne flatue in copper of aCamillus, one of the youths who afliftcd at facrifices. Thefe figures are rare in ftatues, though frequent in baiTo-relievo's, where the whole ceremonies of the facrifice are exprefied. There is one in marble at Florence ; but this, as I faid, is in copper. The Mcflenger [Cn. Martins] pulling the Thorn out of his Foot, which he endured, and would not lofe fo much time as to pull it out, 'till he had deliver'd the letter he was fent with ') the fenate. Tliis is in copper too. There is one at the Villa iorghefe in marble, in the fame attitude and fize. He feems :j be a youth not above fixteen, with fuch a fleiideinefs of the arms, as befptaks him to be a good deal fliort of manly growth. If fuch were the psrfon of the m-ffengcr, that diligent expedi- tion, and conflancy of mijid, were the more remaikablc. The Fiijl: Confulares, engrav'd in marble : there are great chafms in them: the middle part is moll perfed:. A very fin? medaglione in marble, of Mithridates, king of" Pontus, profile. ' A fine luaJ of Biutus the conful, in copper. A llatue of Hercules in copper, with the club in one hand, end apples in the other, bigger than the life. Some remains of gilding riill appear on it. ■^- 326 ROME. CAPITOL. A marble ftatue of Cicero, at leaft fo call'd ; but the coun- tenance is not like the buft-s or antique intaglio's they elfcwherc fliew of him. On his left cheek is a broad and flattifh excrc- fcence, with a little round one rifing again above it, which is for the cicer [the pea], from which he had the name of Cicero. Some antique meafures in marble, which were for corn, wine, and oil. They feem intended to be in the nature of ftandards, being too unhandy for common ufe. That part of the Capitol which fronts you at your firft en- trance into the great area, is the refidence of that magiftrate, M'iio is now called The Senator of Rome; and has order him three judges, one for criminal, and two for civil afrairs. In the hall of this part are the feveral tribunals for thefe judges. I favv them one day fitting on civil affairs ; the parties concern'd telling their own flories themfelves to the judges. The fide- wings are for the Confervatori di Roma, to meet in upon their bufinefs ; part of which is, to take cognizance of abufes in the markets, as to weight, meafure, or price; and to take care of the antiquities of Rome, the walls, and the aqueducts. I mufl not leave the Capitol without mentioning the Rupes T^arpeia [Tarpeian rock], to which Ficaroni brought us, to convince us of the miflake of father Montfaucon, who fays « Bp. Burnet, there is little precipice left ; and of another very great writer *, who reprefents it as what a man might jump down without danger. — What he (hew'd is on your right hand, as you face the Capitol, and not far from the Palazzo Calfarelli ; he affirms that he meafur'd it, and found it to be eighty palms [that is, fixty foot] above ground, as it now is, befides what is hid of it vith rubbifii at the bottom. Whtiher his meafure is exadt or not, 1 do not know; but it is manifeftly fo high, that no man that was not quite mad, would take fuch a defperate leap. After what has been faid of the palaces of Rome, I muft add fomewhat of the villa's; feveral of which are within the walls. . Rus in arbc in a literal fenfe. In Encland, the nobility generally make their feats in the country the moft magnificent, and content themfelves with little more than mere conveniencies in town ; but here it is juft the reverfe ; the city-houfe is much greater, as well as generally ROME. VILLA D E MEDICI. 327 generally more fplendid than the vilhi, which is only intended for a ihort retreat in the hot feafon. The gardens therefore of thefe villa's have in them great numbers of fhady tall trees and high hedges, abundance of fountains, and thofe forts of water-works which thty call fcherzi d'acqiia, [fports or plays of water] partly as the contri- vance of them it) humorous, and the play of fancy, and partly as they are often emplfi^y'd to play tncks with the company ; but rarely with any other than fcrvants ; for, the Italians pique themfelves fo much upon decorum, that they are cautious of giving fuch jefts as they would not care to take : however, a iivery, they think, will bear a fliower well enough, which a finer fuit would not. But thtic fcherzi d'acqua have likewife a real ufo, for laying the dufl:, and cooling the air. The flatues in fome of thcfe villa's are very numerous, and do exceedingly enliven thofe fliady retreats; fo that a man can never be fliid to be alone there, if he can be content with filent company : and a perfon that is a lover of fculpture. or anti- quities in general, may be mofl agreeably jn.ertaui'd in thofe places, and have abundance of quasries anfwcr'd, without a word fpeaking. TheVillade' Medici on the Monte Pincio [anciently Collati- J^''''-' <Je'Me«- nus] is a precious magazine of fculpture, both for ftatues and baflb-relifvii's. In the portico of the palace of this villa, juH: fronting the entrance, is a curious vafe of wliite marble, excellently well preferv'd, as well as finely perform'd : it reprefents Iphi- genia, going to be facrific'd, with Agamemnon, Ulylfes, and other figures encompalTing the vafe. It is to be feen in the jidmiranda. The fanie portico is fet round with feveral flatue?, much larger than the life, moll: ot them in a very great ftyle, to which they give doubtful names, which I fpare repeating. As you go out of this portico into the garden, are two great lions in wliite marble, one on each fide the flairs. One of them was made by Flaminius Vacca, of wliom mention has been made before: one half of the other (as fays the fame Vacca) i. e. one fide of it is antique, for it was a mezzo-rclievo only ; but John Seranus, a fculptor of Fiefoli, having carv'd ^Z'o ROME. VILLA DE MEDICI. the other part of the marble, made the lion folid and entlte. Afterward (fays he) by order of the great doke, I made a whole one like it. /H;^ fpeaks very modeftly, for he is much the bet- ter of the two. At a little diflance from the flairs is a fountain, adorned with three fine ftatucs in copper of John de Bologna; one ia the Mercury flanding on one leg, and pointing upwards, of which are feveral copies in England. The fecond is a Mars. The third they there call Saturn, going to eat one of his children ; but it is more likely to be a Silenut, and young Bac- chus : the vine branches that are curiouHy twilled about the trunk of a tree, which the great figure rel1;s againfl, denote it : and there is. a marble ftatue at the Villa Burghefe, there con- flantly called a Silenus, which the figures in this fo much re- f'emble, that I am inclined to think they are caft from it. A little further are two great vafes or cifterns of oriental granite, v. hich were brought from the baths of Titus : one of them is four foot deep, twenty foot long, and nine foot over, of one intire piece ; the other is about the fame breadth, not quite fo deep, but longer by about two foot. Beyond thefe is an .Egyptian obelifk infcrib'd with hlero- glyphicks. The fineft allcmbly of flatues (if I may give it that term) that ever I faw relating to one ftory, is that of Niobe and her children : they are not all of equal goodnefs, (that rarely happens in fuch a number) but all, I think, have a good deal in them to be admired. The Niobe herftlf is excellent, fo are two of the daughters that ftand in front; and the fon who is between them, and has one hand grip'd and preiUng on his thigh (exprelTuig great anguifli by that, and by his head being liung up), the other refting on the point of a rock, with the fingers finely fpread. Another fon, who with one hand brings fome drapery over his head (as if therewith he would defend himfclf) and the other flretch'd out, is excellent too ; and fo is one that lies along, dead : this is the only one reprc- fcnted as dead; the red: appear all aghafl, as thunder-flruck, fome with one knee on the groumi, others with the limbs llretch'd, even to a degree of diftortion, which 1 doubt not v.as intended ROME. VILLA DE MEDIC L intended to exprefs their greater anguifh. The miferabic mo- ther is rais'd upon an eminence behind, having her diftrcfs'd children all in ngonics before her ; the youngeft, who has run to her lap for flielter, ilie hovers over. Ovid exadlly dcfcribes the attitude, and gives us the words one would imagine Niobc to be ipeaking, •—«-— — —• quam toto corporc mater Tota vcj}:' tegens, unam minimamque rt'linqiie, De inultis mtnimam poj'co, damavit^ & unam. lib. vi. to {hield the laft Her mother, over her, her body cart. : This one, the cries, and that the leaft, O favc ! The leaft: of many, and but one I crave. Sandvs. A horfe is brought among them prancing ; for fome of the fons were (according to Ovid) at their exercifcs on horfcback, when they were ftruck by the angry deities. Therefore Mont- faucon is in the wrong when he fpeaks of the horfe, as not belonging to the ft:ory. E qu'ibiis Ifmenos, qui matri fivcina quondam Prima fu^fuerat, dutn certum flcJIit in orbem ^ladrupedei curfus, fpumantiaquc oracoercct. Hii milii I conclamat j medioque in peciore jixus Tela gtrit ' Ifmenus from her womb who firrt: did fpi ing. As with his ready horfe he beats a ring. And checks his foaming jaws; ah me I outcries ; While thro' bis groaning brcafl: an arrow flies. Sandv3. Part of this fable Ovid might be fijppos'd to give from fuch accounts as were then generally receiv'd ; and drefs'd them out according to his poetical fancy ; but the particular defcrip- tion of Niohe's adtion, and her youngell child, feems very probable to have been taken from thcfe ftatces of them ; this '..ork bcin^ lon;^ before Ovid's time: fince in the days of U u riiny 529 ^3* R O M E. V 1 L L A I) E M E D I C I S. Plitiy they were agreed to be antique, and of the hand either of Scopas or Praxiteles, tho' of which of the two was then difputed. Gronovius, on the other hand, not confidering the time of the work, fuppofes the artift to have taken his hind from Ovid : fo that on all Tides there is a confefs'd agreement between the fculptor and the poet. They were found in the time of Flaminius Vacca (as he fays),; not far from the Porto di S. Giovanni, without the city, and. were bought by the great duke Ferdinand. Perrier has engrav'd them, not much to their advantage; I mean that plate mod: particularly where they are all fcen toge- ther, which is very flight, but has enough to fliew the general defign : he has moreover added Apollo and Diana in the air, fhooting at them, which led father Montfaucon into a miftake, aijd Gronovius likewife,. who (peak of thofe figures as a part of the work itftlf : and feme curious friends of mine have by the iight ef that print, been naturally led into a fuppofition, that the work mull be in^ baflb-rehevo, they likewife taking the Apoilo and Diana for part of it, and well knowing it was not likely for ftatues to be fo fufpended iji the air. On another fide of the garden is the dying Cleopatra, much) in the attitude of others already fpoken of. It is an excellent figure, of a very great flyle : the head, I was told, is modern, but is very good. A little further, is a coloffal Roma Triumphans. From this flatue, all along that fide of the garden, leading; hack again to the palace, are ftatues rang'd along the ontfide wall of two porticoes or galleries, [in the fame line] and baflb- relievo's infer.ted in the wall. There are many of them to be feen in the Jldmh-anda towards the beginning. Out of one of thefe, Raphael feems evidently to have taken that groupe of the Ox and Popa, 6^c. in the cartoon of Paul and Barnabas at Lyftra. Within thefe portico's, on each fide, are ranges of ftatues, fome exceeding good, but very much ncgleiSed. That fide of the palace fronting the garden is in a tijanner in- idrely fiU'd with ftatues and balTo-relievo's. At: one corner of the palace I obferv'd a votive infcription to^ Biicchiis, which is as follows. LIBERQ ROME. VILLA O I U S T I N I A N' L 2Vr LIBERO PATRI SANC TO SACK SEX • CAELIVS PRliuIriVVS ET PUBLIC r A • ANTVLLA VOTO SVSCEPTO D. D. Within the palace are a great many fine ftatues ; an antique copy of one of Niobc's daughters. A Venus coming out of the bath. The duke of Rich- mond, I think, lias a copy of this in fcagliola. IVIarfyas tied up to a tree to be flcad ; exceeding good. An Apollo, leaning againft the ftump of a tree, with his right arm brought over his head ; as beautiful a figure as can be feen, and were well worthy to accompany the Venus de Medicis. I forbear adding feveral others I obferved there. In one part of the garden^ within a fhady grove of Licini [Ilex J is a mount where they fay was once a temple of the fun. On the outer gotes of this palace, which are covered with metal, they fliew the marks of two or three cannon-balls which that heroine Chriftina queen of Sweden fhot off" from the caflle of S. Angelo for diverfion, about a mile over the houfes. In the Villa Giuftiniani *, by S. John Lateran, are abun- "\;''!>? Giufti- dance of bufts, feveral fine ftatues, baffo-relievo's and infcrip- •^-J-hj^, j, tions. another villa One I obferved, which was made to a moft highly cfteem'd \'^.'o"8.!"g '^ ' o y this prince, wife. juft without CONIVGI SANCTISSIM/E, CASTISSIM/E, ^^^ Porta del Potiolo ; bat INCOMPARARILI FOEMINARVM. all the finc.l Another to a wife who had liv'd with her hufhand forty- [J'e'Jifjcmovcd eight years. Another to a (o7\, the lofs of whom is much from thence. lamented ; FILIO, OPTIMO, PIISSIMO, DVLCISSIMO, SODALI J>ESIDERAriSSIMO, VIXIT ANNIS XVI MENSIBVS V DIEBVS XXI. PARENTES INFELICISSIMI. U u 2 Another r^'' ROME. VILLA GIUSTINIANr. Another to a daughter, wherein the odd hours of her life are- expreffed. UUJE PIENTISSIM/E QU^ VIXIT ANNIS XIX MEMSIBUS X DIEBUS XXUX HOR. VIII. One fiTids in thefe, and many other fepulchral infcripllons,, the ablative cafe ufed in exprefling the continuance of time in- itead of the accufative. Among the bufis, I obferv'd one called thefe C. Marius,, but Ficarohi told me it is of L. Sulla. Among the (latiies, there is one of M. Antony, and another of Juftinian the emperor. i'have already occafionally mention'd a moft curious vafe that is- in this villa, when 1 fpoke of an antique altar a: ihe Pala2zo Bracciano,. which is of the fame defign. There are four other fma'.ler antique vafes with baiib-relie- vo's on one fide only of each ; they ftand at the four corners of a little fquare, formed by efpalielrs. They reprefent Hercules in the garden of the Hefperides. A Triton carrying off a Nymph. A Faun picking a. Thorn out of a Satyr's Foot. The fourth feems to be Venus and Adonis. I have here given defigns of them. There are feveral other vafes in this garden, with ba/To- lelievo's round them, which are not fet up. On one of thefo is a bafket full of Priapus's. The palace of this villa is but fmall, and they therefore call it the Falazzino or Palazzetto, that is, the Little Palace; there is in it an antique balTo-relievo, which is valued not fo much for the workmanfliip, for that is indifferent enough, but for the fubje<ft : it is a votitm to Aglibolus and Malach- belus, deities of the Palmyreans, by which are underflood the iwn and moon ; for the moon was fometimes worfhip'd as a mafculine deity, [Lutius.'] There is under it an inicription in the Palmyrcan language, and another in Greek. I let the former alone, (not underftanding the charader) and: tranfcrib'd the latter, together with an interpretation of it by Mr. Spon, which they Ihew there with it i which are here innex'd. - Mr,. im^E^mmLmjrjMi^im. f' V'i\ 1 ) :iiiiiiiiiiiiiiii'ir"'i""'i''^"""i"ii"':'-'^ ^%/- 33^ AFAIBCDACO K\I A\AAAXBHA6) r^'li;, Jbx//C irf.'^r /-• hfur M a'- 'If'.i^f.. /',>■■ ArAIBU)ACD KAIAAAAAXBHAU) TTATPCDOIC eeOIC KAI TO CITNON APTYPOYN CYN TTANTI KOZAACD AN60HMLAYP II AIOACDPOC ANTIOXOYAAPIANOC TTAAAAYPHNOCeKCDNIAICDNVneP CCDTHPIAeAYTOY KAIT? lh^3l()Y vva,..^/; KAI TXeKNON eTOYC Z AA 4) A/rMOC AGLIBOLO ET MALAnUiKLO PATRIIS DIIS F,T SIGNN^I ARGI'NTJ'V>! (AM OMNI ORNATMENTO ORIA'IJT L AVR IIELI()UORV< ANIKX III CI] IIADIUANA- PAIAIIRILNV^ DK SVA IMH A'NIA Oli SAIATKM ^^AM I'/l' VXOIUr KT nJJORVM ANNO DXIAJI MI'.NSK iMJirno ROME. VILLA LUDOVISIA. -3 Mr. Spon goes on, Err. Alcxandri pro coufuctiidine Pa'my- renorum Gf Syrorum infcidpta hoc in monitmcnto^ indicit annum erce C/iriJii communis CCXXXIV. Mcnjis vero per id us rejVjn- det nojlro Fcbruario. F. Montfaucoii has publifti'd what fecms intended for this votum in his great work, vol. IV. His draught oC the figures is taken from 6pon. The figures are there without arms, which are not wanting in the ftone ; whether they are of late addition or no, I will not take upon me to have ohfcrv'd. Some • other differences there are between his reprefentation of it and mine; but as I took mine from the ftone itfclf with my own hand, I'll abide by the truth of it. In one part of the garden I obferv'd a flonc infcrib'd with this dillich. Mgeria ejl quce prcebet aquas, dea grata Camccnisy Ilia Numce conjunx cotifiliumque fuit , iEgeria, Numa's counfellor and fpoufe. The mufes much-lov'd nymph, this llream beftows. This is fuppos'd to have been brought from the Fons ^Tlgerla?, which is now Hiewn without the city not far otf the Circus of Caracalla, where it was faid Numa Pompilius had familiar con- verfe with the nymph. In the Villa Ludovilia are a multitude of ftatucs. The few v;i'a Lu^'otU Ifhall trouble the reader with, are as follows. ^^• In the garden, a moft genteel ftatue of Meleagcr, fitting, a fmall horn in his right hand, which refts upon his knee; his left hand refts upon the rock he fits on. There is a very fine contrail in the turn of the fcveral parts of the figure. A Leda, Cupid, and Swan : the Swan is bufy with Cupid, a parte poji. -^ A Centaur teaching Apollo. Silenus is by, with ^^^ ''''''"*• ;J„;!^,f'or*a Venus newly come out of the bath, and Cupid by her with a &,„ ,0 <larry towel. winciB. In this villa are two palaces or pleafure-houfcs, a larger and a Icfs In the larger are an Apollo, Mara- 334 ROME. VILLA LUDOVISIA. Mars at Rcpofe. Papirius the young fenator, and his mother cajoling him to difcover vvhat was done in the fenate. Under it is thic infcrip- tion. Uii'iKio; ■s.Ti^dvts McL^tiriH i-TToni. " Menelaus, the fcholar of " Stephanus, made it." Arria and Foetus ; he is flabbing himfelf with one hand, and holds up his dying wife (who had fliewn him the example) with the other. Her linking body hangs lb loofe as if every joint were relax'd. Martial gives us a fine epigram upon the fub- jeft; Cajiafito gladium cum traderet Arria Pato ^em de vifceribus traxerat ipfafuis, Si quajidcs, vulnm quod feci non dolet, inquit, Sedquod tu fades, hoc mihi, Pcete, dolet. When faithful Arria pluck'd the reeking fword From her chafte breaft, and gave it to her lord ; This wound, faid fhe, gives me no pain, but I Feel that by which my Pectus is to die. An Agrippina : A Venus : the drapery admirable in both. An oracular head, in rojfo-antico, with holes at the eyes and mouth. A Pluto carrying off Proferpinai by Bernini. LithePalazzetto, or leffer pleafure-houfe of the villa, are, A flatue of Nero in the facerdotal habit, with the patera m his right hand, and a fcroll in the left. Egeria. Mars. Two Daclan llaves, with breeches reaching down to the feet, and tied about the ankles. On thecielingof the hall is an Aurora painted by Guercino. The Aurora is preceded by Phofphorus, and Tithonus bears up a curtain ; Aurora is drawn in her chariot by party-colour'd horfes, and attended by the Hours ; in one corner Night is repre- fcnted by a Woman lleeping, attended with an owl and batts; .and girls reprefent the hours of the night. This is a fine pidure, but comes rtiort of the Guido at the j)alace Rofpiglioli above-mentioo'd. Here ROME. VILLA A L D O B R A N D I X A. 535 Here are landfkapes in frcfco by Guercin and Dnmcniciiin. They fliew'd us here fome bones of a human body, all cruRed over with a petrified fuhftance. Where this villa now i";, were once the gardens of SalluO, in the midft of which Hood a vaft obelifk, with hieroglyphicks, which now lies in leveral pieces in a wafte part of the garden. Hard by this villa, we faw the Circus of Flora, where anti- ently were celebrated the Floralia. On one fide of this Cir- cus, upon an old wall, are fome remnants of antique paint- ings. The Villa x-Mdobrandina of prince Painphilio, (tlio' there are\"iil3 AWo- a great many very good flatucs in it) is chiefly vifited for thc^'''"'^'""''' fake of that famous pidure, call'd the Nozze Aldobrandine, from its reprefenting a wedding, and being lodg'd in this villa. Bartoli's print of it in the Aclmirmida, and the copies we Lave of it in England, make it needlefs for me to fpeak of the delign. It is not at all damag'd by fradure, tho' brought, with tlie piece of the wall it was painted on, from the Efquiline mount, where it was found, to this villa. The colours are a good deal decay 'd, and well they may, if it be above two thoufand years old, as the antiquaries judge it to be : yet not fo much, but that one may llill obl'crve a great deal of beauty in them, particular- ly as they let ofT one another in the feveral draperie?. Tho' there are a great many other paintings nov.' in Rome which mull be call'd antique in refpedt of our times, (fome of thern being doubtlefs fifteen or lixteen hundred years old) yet Bellori calls this JJntcum veteris artis exemplar 6? miraculiwj, " The fingle pattern, and miracle of antient art:" Which muft be underftood Kt.r i^r/h with refped to its fuperior age, if compared with the others. Here is a noted bafTo-relievo of two cajliarii, fuppos'd to be intended for the Dares and Entellus of Virgil. This bafTo- rclievo reprefents only the upper half of the figures ; but Raphael, in a defign of his, (of which a print is extant) has added the rcfl, and made fome alteration in the contrail of the I'he Villa Paloinbara is by fome fuppos'dto be in the place, villa PiloB*^ where the palace or garden of Meca-nas was. Others fay that'" ' bara. here 336 HOME. VILLA PALOMBARA. here was part of Nero's golden houfe, ruin'd by Velpafiarii and where afterwards was a part of Titus's baths. Here we faw a beautiful trunk of an Apollo, with fome very . good drapery, found not long fince in this villa, together with ibme fine antique pillars. A fmall Apollo with the harp, a genteel attitude : baflb- relicvo. A 1 mall Fauftlnaj baflb-relievo ; profile; in the wall of a* neglected room. There is a lovely profpeift from this villa, Tilla Far- The Villa Farnele is on the Palatine Mount, where was **^''- once the palace of the Augufti, of which there are confide- rable ruins now remaming in the further part, looking towards the Circus Maximus. In fome wafte parts of the garden of this villa, we faw men digging in fearch of antiquities in old vaults, which were re- mains of the palaces of fome of the great men who liv'd near the court of the emperors. There were feveral old walls incruftcd with various forts of marbles, and old paintings [fmall figures] on the fiucco of the cielings and friezes j with fome gilded fragments. Several fragments of pillars, and fome fmall pilafters entire, of white marble, all wrought with foliage and other orna- ments. Some of the paintings that were found in this villa were brought to the great Farnefe, where we faw them. There wer€ lome pretty things, but nothing very extraordinary. In a fummer-houle of this villa are feme paintings of Perino del Vaga. Villa Spada. At the Villa Spada, which is jufl: by the Villa Farnefe, are paintings after the antique, on the cieling of a portico. The garden is iufl: over the Circus Maximus. Ficaroni thence fliew'd us the place where he faid the famous Palatine Library antiently flood. Villa diMon. The Villa di Montalto was made by Sixtus V. when cardinal : ■^^''''- he having affumed the title of cardinal di Montalto when he received the hat. Among the many antique fiatucs which are there, is the Apol- lo, occafionally mention'd before; v/itli a violin, jufl fuch as ;-no.w us'd, and held in the fame manner. This A^j/^7 - iaamyiujiiMiiujiniiMM^^ liT' i ' UUlu ' iWitimmHu ^fgf iiiillliiiiil i liiiiiliiiiiilli ii i i i tMl iMilJP larse ROME. V I L L A M A T T E I. jj; This ftatue ftands among fcvcral others, which enLoinprifi a hafoii adorn'd witli a balullr.ule round it. At the upper part is a inodtrn ftatuc, a Neptune, by Bernini, httle infcrioi- to any of the antique, that accompany it. In the portico of the palace is a fenator, fitting in a chair, his right h^ind rcilingon his lap, and his left hand on the back of the chair, holding a fcroU. Near the great gate, which is the principal entrance into the villa, is a curious baflb-relievo [but damag'd] reprefenting Vul- can's forge : of which a defign is here given. Juft by the fide of this villa were the baths of Dioclefian, of which there are very confiderable remains. The Carthufmns have now their convent there. That which is now their church, was the grand refervoir of water; The Villa Mattel is very large and fine : they fay it is two Villa Mattel, miles in compafs ; it has abundance of fine fountains. The entrance into the palace of the villa is a long walk, with cfpalier hedges of cyprefs on each hand, and antique urns, ojjuaria *, &c. which ferve as flower-pots. On one lobferv'dan infcription Uxori KariJJima, with a K. On another, ylfiice, have & "oak. Ego hie fitusfum. " Friend, •■' Cod fave you, fare you well, lam laid here." Within the palace are abundance of fine antique flatucs, and two very good modern ones by P. Paolo Olivieri. One reprefents Apollo fleaing Marfyas. The other is Friendfliip : reprefented by a woman naked, and opening the fkin of her breaft, as difcovering her heart. An antique E.igle, of a very great ftyle. A noble groupe of Brutus and Portia. Martial has given us a fine epigram upon the heroic bravery of this lady. C-ovjugh audijj'ct fatum cum Portia Bruti, Et fubjlradajibi qu<xreret arma dolor ; • The o/7;/ar;a are little cherts of marble, generally about a foot fquare, more or Iffs, And much abaut the fame depth : having a cover of m.iible likewife ; into tbcle were put fuchof the bones as remained after the burning, not turned into alhes. 35$ R O M £. V I L L A. C O N T L Nondttm fcitis ait, mortem non pojje negari ? Crediderim fatls hoc vos docuijfe pat rem ; Dixit, & ardentes avido bibitorefavillai; I nunc, ^ ferriim, turba molejfa, nega. When Porcia lieard how Brutus fell, and grief For weapons fought, withdrawn from her relief^, *' Has not my father's great example fhewn, " (Says Ihe) that death can be deny'd to none ?" Then fwnllowing down the burning coals, fhe cry'cf,, " Now keep your fwords, officious fools I" and dy'dt A large head of Sabina.. A moil genteel and beautiful ftatue which the people of the- place call Fauftina junior, but Ficaroni calls that Sabina too : it is publifli'd in RoiTi's coUedion, and there too is called Sabina.. A bull which they call Cicero, but what I think unlike all others I have feen of him : it h-as an antique pedeftal, in which- there is an evident rafure, and in the place of the old name \& put that of Cicero. — The pedeftal might indeed have for- merly belonged to another ftatue.. An antique mafque, which by fome is fuppos'd to be the Gnatho of Terence. But there is fo vaft a number of the fcenical mafks, reprefented in antique fculpture, and in terra cotta, (particularly on their lamps, to which they were a molt common ornament,, the mouth-part of the mafk being the place the wiek of the lamp came thro') and many differing from others, only in fome fmall circumftance, that it is hard to de- termine particularly. A bufl of Jupiter Serapis in black ftone, agrandflyle, A fine Bacchante, &c. baffo-relievo. A lovely ftatue of Antinous. A dead ram cut open, with the bowels falling out, very good 5, all the parts hang very loofe. Near the entrance into this villa, there's a boat in ftone,, which they fay is antique, fuppofed to have been a njotum : its rojlrum is a boar's head. YillaConti. jn the Villa Conti were the baths of Helena the emprefs,, mother of Conflantine,. of whicli there are now fome remains.. Thefa R O M E. V I L L A C H I G T. 339 Thefe baths werefupplied by theClaudian aquedu<fl. What now ■appears of them conlilb of twelve httle apartments, each commu- nicating with the other, and incrulled with a hard compofition, as tht pifcitia mirabtk near Bayas : they were formerly covered with arches. At the further end [not at the entrance, as ad- vanced by Ibmej is a large ftone with the following infcription : there is a break in the ftone, as here reprefented, \ VG MAT AVIA . BEATISf^ > THER1VI|: Hard by is another to the wife of Septimius Severus. IVLIA DOMNAE AVG MATRI AVG • N ET CASTROR. The Villa Chigi is a fmall one, but remarkable for the great villa Chigi. variety of the fcherzi d'acqua.' - ■■ A man had need walk very warily, and didruft every flone he fets his foot on, to avoid being waflied by feme or other of the many fecret pipes, that are framed fo as to open and fpout out water, if you tread in feme particular places ; and are fo diredted, as unavoidably to give you a wetting. Within the Palazetto we faw the original dellgns of Bernini for S. Peter's Chair, and the dodors of the church that fupport it. An extravagant Priapus, with another hanging from it, and bells affix'd. This, according to Ficaroni, ufed to be carried by the women in ^roct(^\on, Jaciinditatis grati<.i. An antique y?rt/t'rfl Romatia, having fquare chains to the fcale, wrought after the fame manner as the chains of our vva'ches, and a little buft for the weight, as that at the Bar- berine Library, already mentioned. Part of a holJow'd cane, five inches diameter. X X- 2 Some 340- ROME. VILLACASALI, &c. Some moF/ftrous krge bones : a tooth, &c. laid to be hu- man. An intire mummy, very finely adorn'd, which they fay was- a queen of iEgypt. The bed, or couch it is laid on, is fup- ported by animals of tliat country. On the Monte Celio [under the fide of which lies the old Pifcina], in a vineyard, is an old grotta, which has an antique piece of painting on the cieling, confifting of portraits, fef- toons, animals, &c. much decay'd. They fl'.ew'd us there a wafli'd drawing which had been made after it. Villa Cafali. At the Villa Cafali [in the portico at the entrance] is a very fine Antinous, drefled as a Bacchus : it was found in feveral pieces, which they have put together. There are other frag- ments of ftatues, &:c. which were broken, as they fay, by the zeal of the primitive Chriftians, and made ufe of to fill up in making walls, &:c. The mortar is now flicking tofome of them. VVitiiin the Palazetto is a buft of Julia Moefa, with the marks of twelve rays that had been fiiuck about her head, in the fame manner as is foiiietimes fiill pradlifed upon the ftatues of the B. Virgin. She is drelTed as the goddefs Pudicitia, in a veil. A large flatue of Geres, with a thin drapery clinging about the brealls : (he has ears of corn in her hand. A countryman with a kid, &c. wrap'd in the fkirt of his- drapery. Bacchus with the tiger, and a Satyr. In the garden is an antique meta of a circus, antiently be- longing, as is mofl likely, to the Circus Maximus, which is- near this villa; and in this villa it was found. A baflb-relievo of a father, mother, and daughter, all to- gether in one flone : there is no infcription to declare whdm. they reprefent. Villa Borg- The noble Villa Borghefe is juft out of town, 'tis but at the ^sfe- diftance of a little mile from the Porta Flaminia, and lefs from the other parts of the wa'Is of Rome : yet we were obliged to have our fede's [bills of health] for fo fliort an excurfion, elfa they would have made a difficulty to have admitted us again at the gate, upon our return. Thia. R 0:iM!% i.Vil]^ Ig^4T f^O R G n E S E, 341 ■ Tt^^ vJila is thf^ ipilcs in comp^als^^ \\;jtli a noble palace in the middle. I think it is the niofl: magnificent, and the parts diipoiVd with the greatefl gufto. of any I liw in Italy. There is luch an agrceabk- variety of walks and vifto's, wood;, of ever- greens of various forts, fountains and ftatucs in vaft abundantc, as makes the proipe(5l extremely entertaining; it i.s indeed a perfed: country, cut out into various fccncs of pleafures, Befides the vaH: number of ftatues that are in the gardens, and within the palace, the outer walls of the palace are in a nianncr entirely fpread over with flatucs and b a (To- relievo's. Among the reft, is a fine figure of Curtius on horfeback, as leaping into the gulph, in alufiimo-relievo : the rider and the horfe too feem prone and eager for the meritorious leap. This piece was found near the place where the famous leap was taken, in the Campo Vaccino. — Whatever the lake once was, it has been long fince fill'd up; and a church now ftands in, or near adjoining to the place, and goes by the name of S. Maria Liberatrice. Among a multitude of other curious pieces of fculptiirc within the palace, are. Two fine bafib-relievo's, reprefcnting nuptial dances: they are publifh'd in ihe Admiraiida. . A vafe fiipported by the three Graces. The Gladiator : the famous original of that at ITampton- court, and the others which are in England : it was made by Agafias, the fon of Dofitheus, an Ephefian ; as the infcription fliews, which is in thefe words, afasias AnsiGEOY F4>¥2Ios EnoiEi. Silenus and Bacchus in marble : the fame as that copper- one already mention'd in the Villa de' Medici, with this ditie- rence only, that the ftump the other refts againft, is adorn'd with vine-leaves, &:c. which this is not. A famous ftatue they call the Zingara, or Fortune-teller, with a chin-cloth. Caftor and Pollux. Coriolanus, and his mother Veturia. A large and very fine buft of Lucius Verus. Aiiotlier of Marcus Aurclius. . 34* ROME. VILLA BORGHESE. A ritratto bufl: by Bernini: it is of one of the family; I think of cardinal Scipio Borghefe : it is moft admirably per- form'ds — ^This is the fame in jfculpture, as the very beft Van- dykes' -afe'in pairtting. A mod beautiful vafe in white marble : the baflb-relievo's r'eprefent a Bacchanal. Thefe are in the Admirajida. Fauftina junior, a buft : a lovely face. Thefe laft-mention'd are in an upper portico, the cieling whereof is finely painted by the cavalier Lanfranc. At the fpringing of the vault are fome figures in chiaro ofcuro ; the fhadows have the appearance of duft refting on the projedting parts : whether that were the intent, I know not, or that it is ■only a confequence of the light being reprefented as flriking from below: but it has di redly that efFedt to the eye : the performance indeed is admirable. A flatue in a fuppliant pofture, which they fay is intended for Belifarius, when reduced to begin thefe terms. T)ate cbolum Belijhrio. " Befiow a half-penny on Belifarius." The Sleeping Hermaphrodite : one of the genteeleft, fineft- turn'd figures in the world ; the member virile j but the coun- tenance, fhape of body, and breaft, like a woman: it lies on a matrafs, made by Bernini. — The great duke has another di- redtly in the fame attitude ; except that one foot of this is a little more raifed. Antonia AuguRa, a buft j a moft beautiful countenance. Cornelia Salonina J 7 n n. Julius Caefar; J * A little Venus fittings very fine. The famous Centaur, with Cupid on his back. The young Faunus with the flute; a noted, and moft beau- tifully turn'd figure. The three Graces. The Meflenger, in marble : the fame with the copper one in the Capitol. Seneca in the Bath, in black marble; his knees half bent, and as trembling under him. Thefe are all antique, except the buft by Bernini, already rmention'd. There ROME. VILLA B O R G II E S E. There are three more celebrated performances of his, viz. David going fo encounter Goliah. The cxprclllon of the countenance (as indeed the whole figure) is excellent ; he draws up his chin, and fixes his eyes fo, as to exprefs a great deal of ardour, and intent aim at his advcrfary. /Eneas carrying his father Anchifes ; a very fine, and much celebrated groupe : but the loveliell thing, and what they told us was made by Bernini when he was but eighteen years old, is the Apollo and Daphne. The attitude of thefe lovely figures- is well known by the reprefentations that are of them in Eng- land. Underneath is written this diflich. ^ifquis amans fenuitiir fugitive gaudia forma', tro/uie tnaniis impfei, baccas feu carpit amaras. Whoe'er makes fleeting beauty his purfuit, Grafps only leaves, or gathers bitter fruit. I was told cf an amendment propofs'd by an Englifh gentle- man of the two firft words ; inilcad of ^nfquis amans, he would have Lubrka qui, &cc. It is not without reafon that they fay there is a people of Jiatut's in Rome. Ficaroni told us ifi qua fdcs) that he has counted eleven thoufand four hundred and odd, that are antique, befides the vaft number of modern ones. Of all the entertainments in Italy, there is nothing, I think, more agreeable than that which arlfes from the obfervation of the antique flatues. To fee the emperors, confuls, generals of armies, orators, philofophers, poets, and other great men, whofe fame in hillory engag'd our earlieft notice,, ftanding (as it were) in their own perfons before us, gives a man a caft of almoft two thoufand years backwards, and mixes the pafl ages with the prefent. If we cannot (according to one of S. Auguftine's willies) fee S. Paul preaching, we can fee Tully declaiming, and Cajfar didating. We can fee the beauties too ©f thofe early times, the Fauftina's, the Livia's, the Sabina's,. the PlautilU'i ; to fay nothing of the ideal beauties, the nymphs and gjiidclies; yet thefe in one refpedt may have a good' zvs 344- ROME. V I L L A B O R G H E S E. good deal of reality too, where the fculptor might make his own miflrefs a Venus, with a J^amqite erit ilia mihi feriiper Dea.— — — for, as a goddefs, flie Shall ever be efteem'd by me. We fee too, in the ftatues, (befides the countenance) the habits of thofe times, civil and military, which gives us r» com- pleat idea of the whole perfon, and in that refpedl makes every portrait a hiflory-piece, as giving us a hiftory of the habits of thofe times : I mean hiftory as oppos'd to fable ; for the habits in the portraits of late ages, whether in fculpture or in painting, are for the mofl part m.erely fabulous, and (hew a perfon to after-ages in a drefs and mien, fuch as they who were acquaint- ed with him never faw him in, and if they had, would poffibly not have known him. Tb.e mafters that firft introduc'd the change, had doubtlcfs their reafons for it, (as this perhaps for one, that the modern habits are not pittorefqiie enough;) and fuch reafons may have their weight as to a pi(fture in general, but thereby we loofe a principal end propofed in a portrait, the reprefentation of the whole perfon. As the ftatues give us the pleafure of feeing the perfons of fhefe great men, fo the baffo-relievo's give us authentick infor- mation of their cuftoms ; in their wars, their triumphs, their facrifices, their marriages, feaftings, funerals, and many other particulars. And in thefe, indeed, the learned antiquary will find the greateil: variety to his purpofe ; tho' in the ftatues there be a great deal of learning too. In them we fee the particular fymbols of the feveral deities; and again, the feveral fymbols of the fame particular deity, whether as worfliip'd in different nations, or under different attributes in the fame nation. We fee the frolickfome humours of fome of the great perfons ; an emperor perhaps reprefented as a gladiator, or an Hercules ; an cmprefs as an lole. In which cafe, tho' the proper habit of the emperor or emprefs muft of neceffity be laid by, yet that of the afiumed perfon or character, under which fuch empe- ror or cmprefs is reprefented, isftridtly obferved by the fculptor, with- Taf. 34^. -14- ROME. VILLA D O R G II E S E. without indulging his fancy in imaginarv unmeaning orna- ments, and fo he ftill takes care to keep to his text. By the great dilagreement there is amon;^ the antiquaries and criticks concerning tlie latus clavus, and the very difFcring ac- counts, thole who take; upon them to defcril>e it, give of it, it (hould feem that it was Ibme ornament, either woven in the garment, or very thinly embroider'd on it, fo as not to come properly within the province of the fculptor ; elfe in fuch a multitude of reprcfentations of the fcveral forts of the Roinaa garment?, as we fee in the nntiquc (latues, one would think fo diftinguilhing an ornament as that was, muft have been found, and the matter long ago put beyond difpute ; and the rather, if it was a diftinft and feparate ornament of itfelf, asFicaroni would have it, and did affirm it to be. What he fliew'd us for it, was not unlike a flioulder-belt, but that it feem'd toconfift of feve- ral folds, and to hang the contrary way, and not fo low; lying obliquely acrols the breafl:, over the left flioulder, and under the right arm-pit ; and one part of it (or what fcemed to be fo) hanging down upon the left breafl:, from under that part which went quite acrofs. Some of them appear'd as if tuck'd into the tunick about the flomach. I have given a draught of each, ta- ken as exadtly as I had time and opportunity to do them, which will give a more diflin6l idea of them than any words I can ufc. That which is here reprefented, N^ i. is a drawing I made after a hurt of Annius Verus in card. Alexander Albani's colledion, already fpoken of. Some others, that I likewife took draughts of, differ very little from this. That N" 2. is after a bufl: of Scipio Africanus in the Pal. Rufpoli. Since my return home, I obferv'd upon a curious bufi:, which my Lord Malpis brought from Rome, one fo much differing in the dilpofition of this ornament from both thefe, and from all others that I remem- ber to have feen, that I have, by his lordfhip's permiffion, given a draught of it likewife. I do not find that tlie connoiffeurs .Trc fully agreed what this bufl: of his lorddiip's is ; but to me it fccms to have a nearer refemblance of Fompey the Great than of any other that I remember ; only the face feems rather thinner and older; which, I believe, I have elfewhere hinted. This ornament, whatever it is, is pretty frequent in the buffs and ftatues of great men : therefore if it were indeed the latus Y y ^IjVUi, 345 346 ROME. TRAJANPILLAR. c/avus, one would hardly imagine it fliould have efcap'd the obfervatioa of fo many learned and inquifitive perfons who have treated of that fubjedl. The opinions of feveral of them may be feen in Kennet's Roman Antiquities, and Dacier's Re- marks upon Horace, fat. v. 1. i. The /?ii//a aiirea is to be feen on fome few of the ftatues; particularly one upon a young Nero, in this villa. Ficaroni has a real one, which he lliew'd us, and of which a draught is given in the plate of page 313. The bulla, as Macrobius in lib. i. Saturn, c. 6. tells us, was antiently borne by conquerors in their triumphs : he calls it gejlameti trhwiphantium, and adds, that they put certain charms in it, which they imagined were powerful againftenvy. He mentions likewile that Tarquinius Prifcus bellowed the bulla and the prcetexta upon his fon, who at fourteen years of age fignaliz'd himfelf in the war againil the Sabines -, Infigniens (fays Macrobius) puerum ultra annos fortem prcemiis inrilitatis. & honoris. " Adorning the boy, who had fliewn a valour " beyond his years, with the rewards of manhood and ho- " nour." It became afterwards a more common ornament of. young noblemen. Trajan pillar. The Trajan and Antonine pillars, very well known by the prints, are (I think) two as noble monuments of antiquity a^ any in Rome. They are both of white marble, or what was once fo, though time has now confiderably chang'd their colour. The flones, of which thefe pillars are builr, are fo broad, that there is no part, from the bottom to the top, where the whole breadth of the pillar takes up more than one fingle flone; iho' the ihaft of Trajan-'s pillar be above twelve foot diameter at the lower end, and ten foot and a half at the upper, and the plinth of the bafe one and- twenty foot fquarc ; and the plinth of Antonine's pillar eight and twenty foot fquare. Thefe large flones are piled one upon another till the pillar is raifed to its height. On the outfide of them are carved the figures in a con- tinued fpiral, going round the pillar from the bottom to the top ; and within thefe is hollowed, out of the folid Hone, a flair-cafe winding round a folid newel or pillar of the fame llone left iathe middle for thatpurpofe. The lights arc very narrow oa the R O M E. C O I. O N N A C r T O R I A. the oiitfuip, that they might break in ns little ^,s poffible upon the train of figures in the bnlVo-relievo's ; but are widen'd miich within, Co as to ditYufe what light there does come thruiigh ; and 'tis fufficient to enlighten the ftnirs. By the accefs of earth, to which the ruins of the mapnificcnt Forum Trajanuni might not a little contribute, the Trajan pil- lar was part of it hid, being buried near twenty foot deep ; but they have dug a fort of broad trench about ir, which is iquare, being parallel to the pedcftal, and walled up on every lide to prevent the earth from tumbling in again ; and the bottom of it is even with the bottom of thepedellal ; fo that now you may fee the whole. This pillar has been better prefcrv'd than the Antoninc, which has fuffer'd much on one iide by fire : but the noble figure of the Jupiter Pluvius is perfedlly well preferv'd. The Ibblimity of idea in that figure, I think, cannot be too much admired. It is to be feen in Bartoli's edition of this pillar, p. i r. This h(i mention'd pillar contains the ads of Marcus Aure- lius Antoninus j but by one of the infcriptions it appears to be dedicated to his father-in-law Antoninus Pius, Not far from it was the Bafilica Antonina, of which fome noble pillars are flill remaining. The Dogana or cuftom-houfe, in the front of which they ftand, is now built up to them. There is another pillar, which was dug out of fome ruins in the time of Clement XI. and is not hitherto fet up: it lies on the iVIonte Citorio, and thence is commonly called theColonna Ci-Colonna toria. This pillar was dedicated to Antoninus Pius, by Mar-*- ''°"'*- cus Aurelius and Lucius Verus, his adopted fons, as appears by an infcription in I'.rge brafs capitals cemented in the pedeftal of the pillar, but rifing confiderably above the face of the flone : and lo I find Fran. Aquila, in his print of that fide of the pe- deftal, and the infcription upon it, has reprefented the fhadow cad from every letter. The infcription is, DIVO • ANTONINO • AVG • PIO • ANTONINVS • AVGVSTV'S • ET VERVS • AVGVSTVS • FILlT. Y V 2 The 34$ ROME. COLONNA CITORIA. The column is plain, of one intire ftone, a fort of red gra- nitej but the pedeftal, which is likewife a fingle ftone, befides the infcription, which takes up one fide, has bafib-relievo's on the other three fides, but not of the beft tafle. One fide reprefents the apotheofis of Antoninus Pius, and Fauftina his emprefs. They arc borne up by a genius, who has in one hand a globe^' and a ferpent feeming to crawl upon it, with his tail hanging down, crofs the arm that hears it : on the globe are reprefented theligns of the zodiac ; and that fign which is moft confpicu- ous notes the time of the emperor's death. There are two eagles above, one looking towards the emperor and emprefs ; the other looks down towards Rome, reprefented by a woman fitting in a mournful poflure. At the other corner below, is a reprefentation of eternity, by a woman fitting, holding an obe- lilk. On each of the other two fides is the funebris decurjio of the foldiers, as marching round the rogus; the rogus itfelf is not exprefs'd there. This is Ficaroni's explication of the figures. They are to be feen engrav'd by Fr. Aquila at the end of Bar- toii's Antonine pillar. But Aquila has defcrib'd but three of the fides, having omitted one of ihe dccurfios, probably becaufe he thought it fo much in the fame manner with the other, as not to be worth being reprefented by itfelf. This pillar lies juft by a very ftately fabrick, which they call Curia hinocentinnay being eredled by Innocent the Xllth.— — • Here are held feveral courts of juflice. Triumphal The principal triumphal arches which now remain, are thofe arches, ^^ Titus, Septimius Severus, and Conrtantine : The laft is the: moll magnificent, and bed: preferv'd. That of Titus has only one opening or pafiage thro' it ; the other two have each of them, befides one large opening in the middle, a fmaller one on each fide, after the manner of Temple- Bar, &c. as may be feen by the prints of them that are extant. Within the paffage thro' Titus's arch are three bafib-relie- vo's, one r.t the top over head, and one on each fide : in that on the left hand, as you go thro' it, towards the Campo Vaccino, we have an authentick reprefentation of the golden candle- flick, and table of the flhew-bread, which were in the temple of Jerufalem. Thefc, and the other magnificent ornaments of ROME. T R lU M P H A L A R C II E S. 349 of them all, are to he fccn in Rofli's book of the Vdcres Arcus Augujloruin. — But Bartoli, who engrav'd the plates, has, in his prints of the Conitantine arch, reprei'cnted thofc baflb-relic- vo's as equally good, which are really in themfclvcs mod un- equal : for, as this arcii had its principal ornaments from the ruins of that of Trajan, in whofe time fculpture did highly flouridi ; fo, where they fell iLort, to compleat the defigii of the architcdt, and that there might befonicW'hat of Conftantine's own rtory fcen in an arch ereiflcd to his honour, fome additional ones were carv'd by the artifts of that time, which arc moll vile ; at lead they appear fo in prefence of the others. An admirable long balTo-relievo, which was intire, and re- prefentcd Trajan's viiflory over the Dacians, was cut into four parts to adorn this of Conllantine : two of them are plac'd on the outlide, at each end one ; and the other two are within the great middle arch : over one of thefe is written LIBERATO- RI URBIS; over the other, FUNDATORI QUIETIS. Thefe infcriptions were addrefs'd to Conflantinc, tho' the balTo- relievo's under them did belong to Trajan. The words INSTINCTU DIVINiTATIS in theinfcrlp- tion, Ficaroni interprets to allude to the vifion of the crofs. There was once on the top of this arch a triumphal chariot, drawn by eight horfes of gilt metal, taken likewife (as fays the fame gentleman) from the arch of Trajan, which the Goths afterwards carried off as plunder. That feveral of the triumphal arches were fo adorn'd, is evident from the reverfcs of the medals which were flruck upon occafion of their being crcfted. The trunks of lome fine Aatues ftand there, the heads of which were broke off in the lime of Clement VII. by Loren- zinoof Medici*, and the heads brou^^ht to acolledion, which' Ifs faid he ^ . ,,.. I- ri.cn.- I *^^' therefore wanted not fuch an addition to make it one ot the tinelt in inebaniiTi'd yyQj.]J_ Rome: it was We obferv'd part of a fine cornice, which was brought from }J^ [j^^^'^^J; Tnijan's arch, us'd in that fide of this arch next the amphi-dcr'd duke theatre as a common unwrought ftone ; the plain fide is turned Alexander, outwards, and fome of the letters of one of the infcriptions are cut upon it; the wrought fide is turn'd inwards, and hidtrom thofe that view it on the outfide; but we difcover'd it when \vc ^S'=> tre. ROME. AMPHITHEATRE. \ve were in a ropm within, over the great pulTuge : we had but an indifferent way to it, beingobliged to mount by a ladder cp to a fort of window at one end of tlie fabrick, and to go thro' a narrow entrance we found there to a fmall ftair-cafe, which brought us into the inner room. Some of the pillars of this arch are of gml/o mitico, the reft • of inarvio Greco. The baflb- relievo's in Septimius Sevcrus's arch are much damig'd ; more (I think) than thofe in that of Titus, tho' his •be fo much older ; but the fabrick of Titus's has fuffer'd full as much in the extreme parts. Aniphithea- The amphitheatre of Vefpafian, finiHi'd by his fon Titu;-, which is juft by Conftantine's arch, has had fo much written of it, and the prints of it are ib common, that I need not attempt any particular defcription of it. The loweft flory is pretty much buried. Ficaroni fays he faw an arcliitecl of Verona un- cover feme of the buried part, and found there was an afcent of three fteps up to it. All the arches within were covered with ornaments of Itucco, of which there are fome ftill remaining. This noble fabrick had feats fufiicient to contain eighty five thoufand fpedtators : the feats are all gone, but the flope ftill re- mains on which they were plac'd, almoft round the areiw. If the incurfion of the Goths gave it the firft fliock, fome worfe than Goths at home have further'd the ruin of it, to raife palaces to themfelves. It is built of the Tiburtine ftone, which has not a fine grain, but is very durable. The outfide of about one half is entirely gone, but the other half is all ftanding yet, quite up to the top. The body of the amphitheatre, behind the feats, confifted of double gallerie?, that is, galleries divided with pillars all along the middle of them ; each gallery going quite round, and inclofmg the feats, as they did the arena. There were four ftories of thele galleries j three of them were pro^ perly portico's of the Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian orders : the uppermoft is adorned with pilafters of the Corinthian or Compofite order, and is lighted by windows in the wall be- tween the pilafters, and not laid open, as the other three are. Some parts of all the galleries are yet intire, for a confiderable extent together, with the feveral communications between them and the feats by the '•jmitoria (as they called the mouths of R a M E. C I R C U S M A X I M U S. 351 of the palTages througli which the crowds of people were poiir'il into the amphitheatre to fee the fhews ; ) and fuch parts as itill 'remain give us a futhcient idea of what the whole was, when the circle was complcat. Several of the fornices too, below, under the feats, where the flaves and wild bealb were kept, th.\t were let out for combat into the arena, remain pretty intirc to this day. There is fcarce a ftone, even in the rnoll intire part of the amphitheatre, which has not one or more deep holes made in it, which fome afcribe to the malice of the barbarous nations, who upon their incurlYons into Rome, befides other ravages, made thofe holes, merely to deface fo noble a monument of the Roman grandeur. Others afcribe it to their avarice, and lay they did it for the fake of thofe cramps of metal, which were put there to ftrengthen the joints of the fiones. Ficaroni op- pofcs both thcfe opinions, looking upon it to be highly impro- bable that they would fpend their malice upon the amphithe- atre, and not rather upon the Trajan or Antoninc pillars, or upon t|^ triumphal arches, which are fo many fiianding monu- ments or their having been brought under fubjedion to the Roman?; and as improbable that they Ihould be prompted to do fuch a thing out of avarice, and take fuch pains to pick out thefe cramps which could yield them nothing but the iron they were made of, and the lead they were fixed with, and at the fame time Icjve untouch'd the plates and other ornaments of rich metal, with which the portico of the Pantheon was cover'd-, and which remained there till the pontihcate of Urban the Vlllth, who employ 'd them in S. Peter's church, as above mention'd. He therefore concludes that this was not done at all by the hands of the barbarians, but by the people of Rome them- felves, who were by thofe incurfions become poor and mifera- hle : and pick'd out thefe iron cramps for meer necellity ; vcn.- turjng to make free with them, when perhaps they durll not meddle with that more precious booty of the Pantheon. The figure of the Circus Maximus ftill remains, and fome circus Max 1- of the fornices are now feen, over which the feats were builr. ">"»• This Circus was vaftly capacious : fome compute the number of fpeCfators it would contain, to be two hundred and fixty dioufand ; others make the number Aill greater. M ..2 R O M E. P A L. A U G U S T r. Pal. of Au- Juft above this, are confiderable ruins of the palace of the gufti. Augufti. Some of the windows Teem to have been of three or four fquares in height, and reaching from the top to the bottom of the rooms ; as many in the Venetian palaces now do. Baths of Ti- The baths of Titus, the' very much ruin'd, fhew the remains tiis. of great magnificence. We l\w twelve large and long vaults contiguous one by the fide of the other : at the further end of them are a great many leller ones, fome of them plaiftered with fertoons and other ornaments on the ftucco. There are fome few remains of the old paintings, particular- ly the ftory of Coi iolanus, with his mother and wife ; but it is now grown very faint, and is in fome parts little more than bare- ly vifible. Mr. Richardfon has a fine drawing of it by Hani- bal Caracci, after which Bartoli made his plate. Bellori has given us an account of the colours of the feveral draperies, which are now fcarcely perceptible in the pidlure itfelf. In the fame vault we faw the large nich, whence was taken the famous Laocoon of the Belvedere. Over fome of thefe vaults was a palace of Titus, built in view of his amphitheatre. Baths of Ca- The baths of Caracalla fhew much greater remains above racalla. ground, than thofe of Titus ; there are many high walls which enclofe large fpacious courts, and feveral great arches, now flanding. We obferv'd in fome of the broken vaults large pieces of pumice-ftone, which were put there to make the building lefs heavy. There were In thefe baths fixteen hundred feats of marble for thofe that bathed to fit in, in order to be cleanfcd with the ftrigils, bruflies, &c. Thofe f>:ats in the cloyfier of S. John •Lateran, already mention'd, are luppos'd to have been two of thefe. Befides the buildings which particularly belonged to the baths, here was a great palace built by this emperor, and fchools fot all forts of exercifes. There were fubterraneous vaults throughout the whole extent of thefe baths, pilaces, &c. but many of them are now choak'd :up with earth aud rubbilli. At ROME. BATHS OF C A R A C A L L A. At each end of a great hall (or rather court, for 'tis now opcrj at top) are Tribuna's, or femicircular portico's, with niches for ftatucs. In one of thcfc the great groupe of Dircc and the Bull was found. That and feme other Aatues were carried hence to the palace Farnefe ; and great quantities of matble incruftations were taken iVcm the walls, 6cc. and removed to S. Peter's church. Here likewife we faw the remains of a temple of Ifis, a ro- tonda. It was thi.^empcror [Caracalla] who reflored the wor- fliip of Ifis in Rome, which had been abolilh'd by TibcriuF. Jofej^^hus gives a pleafant account of the occafion of it. An!. 1. 18. c. 4. I will fave the reader the trouble of turning over the book itfclf, and will infert the fubflance of the flory here. Dccius Mundus, a young Roman knight, [in Tiberiu&'s time] was violently in love with a noble lady, call'd Paulina, wife to one Saturninus, a fcnator. Paulina was virtuous, as flie was fair j the young man courted, intreatcd, offer'd prefents, but all in v:.in : at laft he tried the power of gold ; and if two hundred thoufand Attic drachma's [about fix thoufand pound] might purchafe his happinefs, he was ready to lay that with liiinfclf at her feet ; but all to no purpofe : the lady remained obflinitely virtuous. The young man, unable to b:?ar the de- nial, rcfolved 10 flarve himfelf to death. A good-natured wo- man, a freed-woman of his father's, call'd Ide, who had a dextrous turn in affairs of that nature, faw how 'twas with liim : flie faw, and fympathiz'd : Come, fays flie, don't pine thus, chcar up, never fear butTIl find means to help you. Pie hearkening very attentively, flic added, Give me but a fourth part of what you f.ffcr'd the lady, and I'll lay it out f), that, my life for your's, I'll fcon put yoii to bed to her. She receives the money, and knowing that Paulina was prodigiouHy devoted to the ftruce of Ifis, av^/ay Hie goes to the temple of that god- dcfs, with her purfe of gold, and found no difficult accefs to the priefls. Holy fathers, fays fhe, I'm con.e to beg a little of your afiifiance ; there's money to be got ; only be you hearty JM the bufinefs ; 'tis a love-affair : and then flie tells her talc, fifty thoufand drachma's is the fum ; here's half in hand, and the. -ell readv when your work is done. There v. as no withlland- Z z ing is: 3S^ ROME. BATHS OF CARACALLA. ing fuch a temptation : — 'Tis very well, Midrefs, go your way, the bufinefs fhall be done, Paulina's devotion to the goddefs was fuch, that the priefts had accefs to her when they would : the eldcft of them undertakes to manage the matter with her: he defires a conference with her in private, which was granted : he telli her he was fent to her by the god Anubis ; that he was delighted with her perfon, and had fignified his pleafure that Ihe Ihould lie with hmi. She was all devotion, and receiv'd the meflage with tranfport, gloried of the honour to her acquain- tance, and told her huiband how god Anubis would lie with her. The hufband, well allured of her virtue, without any difficulty, confented. So to the temple (he goes. The priefls are ready to receive her, and conducft her to her apartment. The doors of the temple are lock'd, and the lights taken away. Mundus lay hid within : we'll fuppofe that it was not long e'er he addrefied Paulina, nor that Paulina was coy to her fuppofcd Anubis. All night they lay together, and early in the mornings e'er the priells were ftirring, he retired. Paulina too went, and repaired to her hufband, acquainted him how Anubis appear'd to her, and boafted among her familiars what conference he had with her. The account was varioufly receiv'd by them, fome believing it, others mifi:ru(1:ing fome roguery. About three days after this affair was over, Mundus meeting with Paulina, could not forbear letting her know that he was her Anubis, and that under that name flie was pleas'd to oblige him with her favours, tho' Mundus could not be receiv'd. Paulina, now fenfible of the villain}', and amaz'd at the man's impudence, in a fury tears her clothes, goes ftrait to her huiband, and acquaints him of the whole matter, begging of him to profecute her revenge to the utmofl:. He needed not much intreaty; went ftrait to the emperor, and laid each particular before him. The emperor, upon a full examination of the matter, order'd the prielts and Ide to be hang'd j pull'd down the Temple of Ifis, cart Anubis's ilatue into the Tiber, and banifhed Mundus : his punifhment being lefs than that of the others, confidering his crime pro- teeded from extreme love. The aqueducts to thefe baths were vaftly great : one of them (according to Ficaroni) was brought over the triumphal arch of Ntro Claudius Drufus, which is juft within the Porta Appia,, [or ROME, CROTTADEEGERIA. {or Capena.] There are two of the pillars, Compolite, now remaining, one on each fide this arch [of Urufus] ; his Hatuc on horfcback was on the top of it, as is to be fecii in foinc medals of him, where this arch is the reverie. The circus of Caracalla is a little way out of town, near the fide of the Via Appia : the figure of it ftill remains (but all ruinous) and fo do the met;v within it. Theobclifk, which was within it, is now fet up on the fine fountain in the Piazza Na- vona. This circus is laid to have contained a hundred and thirty thoufand Ipetitators. By the fide of the way that we went to this circus, arc the ruins of the temples of Virtue and of Honour ; which were contiguous, and fo built, that the way into the laft was thro' the former, to denote that honour was to be attained only by virtue, or valour ; virtus includes both. Alfo The temple dedicated Deo Rcdiculo, \_a redeundo, according to fome] built upon occafion of Hannibal's advancing towards Rome, and then fuddcnly retreating : others write it Ridiculo, giving it this turn, that Hannibal retreated as baffled — rctro- cejfcrit illufus. So Panvinius has it, and Marlianus likewife : the whole pallage in Panvinius is thus. Extra Capcnam lapide II. fuit templum Ridiculi, ibi excitatiim, quod eo loco Hannibal cajiramctatus retrocefferit illufus. An account of his encamp- ment and retreat, and what induced him to tlie latter, maybe feen in Livy, 1. xxvi. And likewife, The temple Fortunse Muliebri, built in the place where the mother and wife of Coriolanus met him, and prevail'd upon him to raife the fiege. In the fame way we law the Pons Egeria?, now called the Crotta, or Spelunca d'Egeria [the cave of Egeria], where Numa made the people believe he had conference with that goddefs, and received directions from her in forming his reli- gious inltitutions. Not far off this we faw the noble monument of Cxcilia Mctella, the daughter of QMJreticus, and wife of Cr^fTur, as the infcription, llill plain upon it, fliews. QELClLhY., a CRKTICI F. METELL/E CRASSI. Z Z 2 It zss 3-6 R O M E. C A T A C O M B S, It is a rotondd, as feveral of the antient Maufolea were : one- fide is oiwch ruin'd ; and there we had opportunity of obferving that the vart ftones whereof it is built, were laid together with- out mortar, or any other cement. There is a frieze toward the top, adorn'd with heads of oxen, from whence the whole Ilni(fture is commonly called Capo di Bove. There is a fine Sarcophagus in the court of the Farnefe pa- Jace, which they fay was brought from hence, and is fuppos'd to have contain'd this laiiy's remains : fhe was wife to the rich MircusCraffus, who fell in the wars againfl: the Parthians. The catacombs of Rome have nothing of that magnificent appearance which thofe of Naples have : two perfons can fcarce go a-breall: within them: I fpeak of thofe of S. Sebaftian^,. which are reckon'd the principal ones of Rome, and we were not in an_y other. But what they want in breadth, they have fufficiently made out in length, if what Ficaroni told us be true, that the extent of all the galleries oi- walks, of which there are a multitude, branching themfelves out feveral ways, amounts in the whole to forty miles. The narrownefs an^ clofenefs of them occafions an unwholefome damp, which I felt the effld: of fome days after. It is certainly not advifeable to fpend much time in- them, but curiofity fometimes makes one urrmindful of fafety. It is dangerous to venture far into them without a condudor, by reafon of the many labyrinths and mazes made by the numerous branches of the feveral galleries. Our guide told us, that fome that have gone in too far, have not been able to find their way out again, and have perifhed there. It was much eafier cutting thefe catacombs than thofe of Na- ples, becaufe. the rock is much fofter; but that quality occa- fion'd another, which was very inconvenient, I mean their nar- rownefs ; for the ftone not being of a fufficient confiftence tO' fupport itfclf in a wider arch, they were obliged to cut thefe fo narrow, as I have obferved before; which muft have made it exceeding troublefome and tedious to get out the rubbi(h that was made by the hollowing of the vaults, there not being room for thofe carriages- to pafs by one mother, or turn in thefe nar- row vaultr, which in the fpacious ones of Naples might be employed to carry off the rubbifli, and might pafs and repafs by one another, as well as turn about with the greateft eafe and: con*- ROME. MAUSOLEUM OF AUGUSTUS. 257 convenience. We found a great many of the niches in thcfc tlos'd ; fume of the company opcn'd one or two of tlicni ; the bones, which to the eye appeai'd intire, we found upon toucli to be nioulder'd, fo as to crumble away between the fingers. In one was a llcelcton of full growth, with another very little one by it, which might probably be a woman doad in child- bed, with her infant buried by her. At the mouth of fome of the niches we faw little vials of glafs like lachrymatorie?, with a tindure of red at the bottom : thefe they told us were indications that thofe who were depofitcd in fuch niches, were martyrs. The Maufoleum of Alexander Sevenis is a little way out of town : It is a rotonda. The (tone vault is furrounded on the outfule with a great thicknefs of earth. The Vas Barberinum was found here. In our wiy we faw part of the old aquedu": of Ancus Mar- tiuF, brought over high narrow arches, the remains of which are feen in feveral places, and in fomc without any interruption for a long way together. That of Claudius and the reft of the antient aqueduds, were carried over the like narrow arches, as appears by what is left of them.. Thofa modern ones of Six- tus V. are much in the fame manner. The Maufoleum of Auguftus is within the city ; this is a ro- tonda too, of about four and forty paces diameter : the vaulted roof of it is dcftroyed ; but the fides remain intire quite round. The area within is now a garden. It was built by Auguftus for a repofitory of the remains of Julius Ca-far, and was after- wards the burial-place of the Augufti. The catmre fc-pulc/irale [fepulchral chambers] in which the urns were depofited, go round the outfide in three ftories. In thefe a great deal of the old opus reticulatum is feen. Here we fdw a large ftatue of iEfculapius, a fine one of the goddcfs Copia, with the cortiu, isiz. and fome others. A fine old Sarco hagus of white marble, with bafTo re- lievo's of Pan, Faunup, Satyrs, Sec. [heads], and of Cupids, [whcle figu;es] holding up feftoons. On the front of the cover are little Cupids riding on dolphins, fea-horfes, a lea- cow, and a fea-ram. 1 he entrance into this fcpulchre was antienily grac'd with two obchllcs, one of which is now before 3^S ROME. PYRAMID OF CESTIUS. before the church of S. Maria Maggiore, as has been already niention'd. Pyramid of The Pyramid of Ceftius, all built of white marble, ftands c'eiliiis. half vvithin, and half without the wall of Rome, near the Porta Tergemina. There arc feme antique paintings ftill with- in, but we couKi not fee them ; the lock was out of order, fo' that the door could not be open'd. The lower part of this py- ramid was a good deal buried, till Alexander VII. took away the earthfrom about it ; at which time were found, lying along, the two pillars that arc now fet up at the two corners of the pyra- Falcomrnde mid Within the city-wall *. Pyramid! C. The Porta Tergemina, or Trigemina, is juft by this pyramid : imrfltTn''" it is fometimes called by that name at this day, but mod com- monly Porta di S. Paolo, from the church of S. Paul, which is not far from it. The old name was given it, becaufe it was this way the Trigemina Fratres, the Horatii, [three brothers born at one birth,] went out to that famed combat with the Curiatii. Nardinus and Borrichius make fome obie(5tions to this account, and fay this could not be the gate the Horatii went out at ; alledging, that it was at that time unbuilt, and that the city-walls did not then extend fofar as the place where this gate is built ; that the old Porta Trigemina was at the foot of the Aventine hill, but that this gate is at a conllJerable di- llance from thence, being juft by the pyramid of Ceftius. All this may be true, and may perhaps prove that this is not the very gate through which the brothers palled to the field of battle, nor the firft gate which was called by that name ; but it may be likewife true, that this gate was fo called becaufe thefe bro- thers pafted upon that occalion along the way where this gate rtands : for when the Romans, to preferve the memory of an adlion, to v\hich Rome ow'd its fovereignty, had once given the name of Tergemina or Trigemina to a gate leading to the place where that adtion was perlbrm'd ; nothing could be more natural than that their poflerity, when they remov'd the city- wall, Hiould call the new gate that anfwer'd to this old one, and led to the fame place, by the fame name, and thereby con- tinue the memorial of this important vidory. Nor indeed is it eafy to imagine why, upon Shifting the gate fomething further outv/ards, they Ihould change the name, though there had not 2 been ROME. PYRAMID OF CESTICS. ^50 been fo particular a reafon for continuing it. The furvivor of the Horatii came not back the very fame way, as vvc arc in- formed by Livy, but returned thro' the Porta Capcna, where feeing his filler with tears lamenting the death of one of the Curiatii, who was her lover, killed her fur bewailing the deatli of one that was an enemy to Rome. Livy gives us his fpecch when he ftabbed her, yl/>l hinc cum immattiro amore ad fpon- fum, oblata fratrtim mortiioriim vhiqiie, obit t a patria : fie cat, qutxciinque Romana lugcbit liojiem. " Get thee hence, with thy " unfeafonable love, to that fpoufe thou mourneft, forgetful of " thy brothers, both of thofe that are dead, and of me that " furvive ; forgetful of thy country : and thus let every Ro- *' man go, that mourns an enemy to Rome." There was, in the early ages of Rome, a fort of a favagc public-fpiritednefs, which was forward to fignalizc itfelf againlt the neareft of relations, if they appeared to be enemies to their country ; as in the cafe now mentioned ; and in that famous one of Brutus, flriking off the heads of his two fons ; upon which Monfieur St. Evremont obferves, that the fentiments of liberty made him forget thofe of nature. At a little diftance from the other fide of the pyramid, lately fpoken of, is the Monte Teftaccio, a hill rais'd by degrees in the time of the old Romans, chiefly from broken pots, but with the addition of other rubbilh. They have now made feveral large caverns or grotta's within it, for the keeping of wine, which, when newly brought out from thence, drinks as cool as if it were iced. The grotta's themfelves are fo cold, that it is dangerous for thofe to go into them in the hot weather, who are not accuflomcd thereto, efpecially in the day-time, when the antipcriflafis is ftronger. I flood once only at the entrance ot one of them, and not above a minute, and that in the even- ing too, when the outer air was more upon a par with that within, and there came out {o piercing a cold, th.it it pcrfedly llruck thro' me : I have recolledted fince, that one might have better gone quite into the grotta, where the cold would have been equal on all fide, and not come in a torrent one way only, as it did at the entrance. The fepulchre of the Nafones [commonly called Ovid's OviJ'i Tomb. Tomb] is under a bill on the fide of the Via Flaniinia, not far frctn 2bo ROME. O V I D's TO M B. from the Ponte Molle. It is well known that Ovid died in banifliment, in a country far diflant from Rome, and was there buried. This fepulchre, therefore, is not of Ovid himfclf, but of the famil/a Niifonla, defendants from him. Bellori obvi- ates a difficuhy which may be rais'd, that Nafo was only a fur- name perfonal to Ovid, and not his nome gentilizio, the name, of his family. To this he fays, «' that it was curtomary fome- *' times to change the particular furname into a family-name, " for the eminerit charafter of fuch perfon as had made that •' furname famous." And indeed the antient Romans having been fometimes (as the modern ones often are) more generally known or diftinguifh'd by fuch adventitious name, than by that of their family, it is very natural to fuppofe that Ovid, having been generally known by the name Nafo, and having made it fo famous, his dcfcendants might take the fame, (or the nameNafonius, deriv'd from it) for their family-name, inftead of Ovidius, which was the family-name before. The perfon, who built this fepulchre, was Q^Nafonius Am- brcfius, as was difcover'd by an infcription on a marble, found in the principal nich, at the upper end of the fepulchre. In the:ranie nich was reprefented in painting the perfon of his an- ceftor, Ovid, (with Mercury and other figures) placed there in the chief part of the fepulchre, exadly fronting the entrance, that he might be the more confpicuous, as being the principal objeft. The defigns of all the paintings, with which the rert of the niches, and all the other parts of the fepulchre were co- ver'd over, may be known by Bartoli's prints, and Bellori's il- lurtrations, in their book of the Grotte Aniiche. This fepulchre was accidentally difcover'd in the year 1674, by fonie workmen who were getting ftone out of the rocky hill within which it is built, to repair the Via Flaminia againfl the lucceeding year of jubilee, u hich would bring a concourfe of people that way. At thehrft opening of it, the colours of the piintings thce- i 1 were very frt Hi and lively ; but upon the admiffion of the outer air, they changed, and by degrees grew languid, and the very plaiftcr they were painted on begin to part from the walls; but that excellent artift, Pietro Santo Barloli took ■,care in time to preferve the memory of the defigns, by copying them R O M E. C L O A C TE. 361 tlicm, and waHiing tlicm in tlie proper colours of the originals. Thcfe ddigns of Bartoli, in colours, arc to be fcen all together in a book at the palace of the Marchefc Maflimi above-men- tioned. And luch of the paintings as they could get away in any tolerable condition, were carried oiT, and arc difperfcd in levc- ral palaces ; fome of which have been nuiuioncd : fo that there is little now remaining there, but t!ie figure of the fepulchre within, which is entire j but the paintings arc in a manner all goiK', except two ligures which remain on one fide of the vault. The Cloacit, which are conveyances for the filth and dirt of Cbacx. the city, arc a work of very great antiquity, and arc called by Pliny opi/s omnium muximum, on account of the great capaci- oufncfs and firmnefs of the vaults. They were eight hundred Src Pliny's years old in his time, being m.ide by Tarquinius Prifcns, and "^o^'^fo"'''''' continue to this day. We faw the mouth of one of them, them, 1. 36. confining of a flrong triple arch, at the lide of the Tvber,*^ '5- near the remains of the Pons Sublicius, which Horatius Codes alone defended againft all the forces of king Porfena, till the bridge was broken under him. The pompous accounts, which we find in the poets, relating to the Tiber, raife an idea which finks very much upon fight of it : that of Dionyfius in his w-'^nyMn is pretty extraordinary, Qvii^fif tiJikniK 'jo']it.ixuv [iotf/AsuTetTof a.fhav, Q\iu^fiif, 'if lujpTMi' d/roTiixviTtti hiT/jt 'PftiwDr. Tyber, that rolls tranfparent to the fca, "j Tyber, wide ftrcam, whom other tloods obey, |- Tyber, that cuts thro' fairefi: Rome his way. J Notwithilanding this fine account of this prince of rivers, with its limpid ftr earns, whenever I looked on it, I could not forbear thinking rather of Tower-ditch, than the river Thames. Certain it is, th^t Rome has made the Tyber famous, which elfc had been but an inconhderable river ; and the city was doubtlefs very ill w.itered while it depended only on that ftream, which is always muddy, and generally low, except when rais'd by floods,, v/hich bring it to the other extreme, as is to be fcen A a X by 302 11 O M E. T y B E R. by m.uks Inlcribed on pillars at the Nuovo Navalo a Ripetta, •a fort of quay] which fliew to how great a height the inun- dations have arifen. This condition of the river, each way inconvenient, was doubt- lefs what pat the antient Romans, in the very early ages of their city, upon that moft coflly, but iiiolT: noble expedient of the aquedudi:, already mentioned, fome of which are near two thouland years old. Several of thefe being decayed, were re- Itored by fome of the firlt emperors (as may be feen by the in- fcriptions on the Porta Nsvia, or Maggiore) to which others were afterwards added : and inllead of fuch as have fince that time failed, a rich fupply has been made by Sixtus V. and Paulus V. of the Acqua Felice and Paula : fo that Rome, however deftitute of waters naturally, has by thefe means been made one of the beft watered cities in the world : infomuch that befides the publick fountains, which are numerous, and fome of them very magnificent, there is fcarce a private houfe of any confideration that has not a fountain belonging to it. Some of the antient aqueduds brought the waters above fixty miles, and the more modern, above thirty. I Ihall not attempt a defcription of any of the fountains, which are many of them very beautiful and finely adorned j the figures of them are well enough Ccen by the prints. When that flately one was eredted by Bernini in the Piazza Navona, people wondered from what part of it the water was to ilTue, fome expeding it from the cololfal figuies at the four corners, fome from one part, fome from another. While all were big with expedation, upon a fignal given for the opening the pipes, a whole deluge came thro' the clefts of the [artificial] rock i which falling with a force on fuch parts as were contrived to give it a proper refillance, made it refled and rebound again in a thoufand varieties, to the amazement of the fpedators. Of ail the fine fountains that are in Rome, this, I think, is much the moit entertaining. Oratorio c'i As we Were taking the air one evening in this piazza (Na- vona], we faw a Jefuit mounted on an eminence, haranguing the people. When this aftair was over, they followed him in proceirion to an oratory, commonly called Caravita, from a iather of that name, who ufed to perform there : where, after a litany to the faints, and fome few prayers, &c. the doors X of ROME. O R A T O R 10 Dl C A R A \ I T A. of the place were {\mt, and the candles put out; then the congregation ftript their ihouldeis bare (as we were told, for it was then Co dark we could not fee what was done, tho' wc could hear fufficiently), and fell a difciplining themfclvcs, fomc with chain?, others with kourges, for about a quarter of an hour; the prielt every now and then crying, E/i / Pcccatori ! [Ah finners !] and ufing other expredions to the like purpofe ; whereupon the ftrokcs were redoubled : he had rattled them pretty heartily before about their fins, and made abundance of Ipceches to a crucifi.x he held in his hand, with expoflulations now and then betwixt that and the people. At the rini»ing of a Imall bell the difcipline ceafcs : then they put on their clothes, and the candles are lighted again. Thev offered us difciplines, if we had thought fit to make ufe of them ; but did not (indeed) prefs the favour. We were told, that one night when thev were met upon the like occafion, while they were all in darknefs, they felt fome- what that was rough, brufhing very rudely by feveral of them, which put them into a great confternation. The priefl had been fiying terrible things to them, and they now thought the devil was indeed come among them. The uproar was fo great, that they were forced to light the candles again fooner than or- dinary ; whereupon they difcovered a bear's cub, that had broke loofe from a neighbouring houfe; (for there they fometimes chain thofe creatures at their doors, as they do foxes with us) : their fears were then pretty well over, but the prieft doubtlefs knew how to make ufe of the accident, if it were really an accident, and that himfclf were not in the fecret. Another evening, as we were walking on the Pincian Mount, we met with a very agreeable entertainment, a fort of carmen Anmbceumy much in the manner of the old eclogue. Two perfons had placed thcmfelves under the wall of the duke of Tufcany's palace. Villa de' Medici, v.ith their guitars, and fang alternate. They were at firit very courteous and complai- fant ; then taking occafion from feme litth incident^ they went \o\.\\t\x viutua coiroida, their little taunts and banters; a!'t«T that, by degrees, all matters were healed, and they parted very good friends. They managed the matter fo, that the poetical dialogue feemed at leall, if it were not really, ex tempore > fe- veral of the company did believe the greateft part of it \Ta? fi ; 3^4 ROME. P I N C I A N MOUNT. ■for many of thofe fellows have a head very much turned that wav : and their frequent prafticc may make it eafy enough. Be that as it will, it was very pleaiant and entertaining. Sometimes we have fcen the better lort take the frefco of the evening in their chaifes, which in agreeable places they caufe to llop, and fit in them there, finging and playing on lutes or guitars. The fireet- murders at Rome are nothing fo frequent now as they are reported to have been formerly; tlio' there were fome few while we were there : but the vigilance of that excellent maeirtrate Signor Falconieri, governor of Rome, [lince m^de cardinal] gave a great check to thofe infults. I was told that he is of an Englifh family, of the name of Falconer ; and that he himfelf declares (o, and feems to take a fatisfadlion in it. This is certain, that he was always particularly ready to dojuf- tice to any Englifliman that had a complaint to make to him. As it is necellary in Venice to avoid difcourhng of policy, fo in Rome one muft forbear difputcs about religion, and then all is fafe enough : the rule, though different in words, is in effedl the fame ; for at Rome religion feems in a great meafure the policy of the place : the government is purely hierarchical ; and thro' the whole ecclefiallical rtate fcarce any are admitted to pofls of any confiderable truft, but cardinals, or prelates, or fome other fort of priefls : and I was told (tho' I dare not anfwer for the exaiSnefs of the computation), that of about thirty-five thoufand houfes that are reckoned to be in Rome in the whole, there are twenty- three thoufand that they call religious, or that are inhabited by perfons in fome fort of ecclefiaftical orders, or fome way belonging to Holy Church : if it be fo, Who can difpute the epithet they give it of Ro/m la Smita ? [Rome the Holy.] The many things obfervable atRome have led me to a greater prolixity than I had intended ; and for the fame reafon I am obliged to omit many, I myfelf had obferved, which might well deferve notice. That certainly is the place of the world where a perfon any way curious may find the moft variety of enter- tainment, and fpend his time the moft agreeably. What oc- curred in a fliort excurlion or two we made from Rome, and in our return home, I Ihall draw into a narrower compafs. The E N D of the First Volume. S O M !•: OBS E RV ATION S Made in TRAVELLING thp.ou-.u F R A N C E, I T A L Y, &c. IN THE Years mdccxx, mdccxxi, and mdccxxil By EDWARD WRIGHT, Efq; VOL. II. THE SECOND EDITION, LONDON, Printed for A. MILLAR, ia the Strand. MDCCLXIV. I « 1^ « ^1 «,,*,J^.« €S ;Mi ^a «i J i y li y If '^^^f.^''^ IS l^ If y I SOME OBSERVATIONS Made in Travelling through FRANCE, I T A L Y, &c. VOL II. D URING our flay at Rome, \vc made Come fliort ex- curfions to Frefcati, Tivoli, and Albano. FRESCATI. FR E S C A TI is the place where, according to the opinion of feme, Tufculum anticntly flood, near which Cicero Iiad hi5 Tufculanum.. Several fine villa's are now in and near the town. It is fituated on the file of a delightful hill, the top whereof affords vafl quantities of water, which fupply the noble fountains thofe villa's abound with. Thefe have been fo^ long famous, and fo often defcribed, that I lluU fay little of them. Vol. II, A What g66 T I V O L r. What I was particularly pleas'd with, were thehydrauh'cs ; wgans, where the water performed at once the office of the bcUows-blowcr and orgaiiift ; and other wind-inftruments, contriv'd lb as to be founded by the like artifice. The original invention of thefe, according to Pancirolli, is very antient; forae afcribing it to the ^Egyptians, others to Archimedes. At the Villa Belvedere of prince Pamphllio, is a beautiful grotta or hall, at the further end of which is mount Parnaflus, with Apollo and the Mufes founding their inftruments, in con- cert with an organ, which is in a further part behind, all found- ing by force of water*. By' the fame hydraulic method, a great marble flatue of Polypheme founds his pipes, anda Centaur his horn : and by a like' expedient, in a fountain between thefe itatues, (which they call the Girandola from its fliooting out water in the manner of the fire-works which bear that name) is produc'd a tumultuous found, like thunder and tempeft. This place is about twelve miles from Rome. f. The a;itieiit '~T^ ] VO LI -f-, which is aboiit eighteen miles from Rome, h ' ^" -■- famous too for its water-works, and other curiofities, in the Villa d'Efte, belonging- to the duke of Modena. Here is another fine water-org;in, with abundance of cafcades, foun- tains, and grotta'?, which have been once very nobly adorn'd,. but are many of them now in a very ill condition : there is a long walk with a row of fniall fountains continued all along one lide of it ; at the further end of it is a reprefentation of fome of the temples and other buildings of old Rome, in marble : a city as it were in mignature : they muft have been a work of more expence, than their appearance anfwers. Among the flatues, of which there is a great number, I cbferved one of a cajlhirius, with the Phrygian cap. The thong?, reprefented round his hand, are continued up to the elbow ; as they are in the balTo relievo of the two Ctrf- * For the mjri-;.' of thefe water organs, fee father KirckeT's Ma/:ir^ia Uai'vsr/a/is, ffo^ An '^.lugna Qonfoni ts'. DiJ/hni. L. ix. part. v. pragni. i. & ii, tSiV ii: J^a^^ ^^> S^w/iA' ^y'///r S//u///, ^/ ^li'^/l . T I V O L 1. 3^7 i'uirii in the Villa Aldobrandin.i in Rome. The real tl)on-»- the civjliiirii made ufc of (they fay) were of buffjlo's hide. The cafcade of Tivoli is nothing fo deep as that of Tcrni, Cifcadf. but of a greater breadth (unlefs the great depth of the other make it appear narrower) and riiflies down witii a va(t force. It is the river Anio falling down a precipice \ prcvceps Atiio, as Horace terms itj now called the Teverone. This immediately, after its fall, divides itfelf into two parts ; one of which fetches a compafs about the town; the other is foon lof): in a gulph, and runs in feveral channels under a great part of the town, and then rifing again, comes to the Palazzo d'Ede, whence a bmnch of it runs to Mecaenas's villa, the remains of which flill appear; and afterward it falls in feveral fmall cafcades into the other part of the river, which comes round the town. Upon an eminence, oppofite to the cafcade, ftand the beau- tiful remains of what they call the Temple of the Sibylla Tibur- ti.'ia, as alfo of her houfe jufl: by, which is now a church de- dicated to S. George. The anticnt temple is fuppofed to have been once before ruinated, and to have been reftored by L. Gel- lius : and, tho' it has not been commonly obferved, his name is feen on the architrave, L. GELLIO • L . F. The pillars which fupport the portico that goes round it are Corinthian, fluted, but the capitals are different from what we ufually meet with in that order : though the difference is not fuch as could well be expreffed in fo fmall a draught as is here given ; but the curious may fee it in Defgodetz. Bulls-heads with fcf- toons piffing from one to another, and fomewhat like a rofe over each feftooo, arr; the ornaments of the frieze. The roof of the portico which goes round is adorn'd with rofes in com- partiments. Palladio and Defgodetz fpeak of this flrudure under the name of the Temple of Vefla. Defgodetz correfts many midakes of Palladio, and fliews the particularity of the capitals; which Palladio mentions by way of commeniiation, without taking the leall: notice of their being at all different from the common form. In an open piazza we faw two granite /F.gvptlan ftatucs of Ifis, flanding now on pedeflals which certaiidy did not belong to them; for they have upon them infcriptions wliich arc an- tiepe, but have no relation to the flatucc. A 2 From 368 T I V O L T. From an eminence a little farther we faw the remahis of the villa of Mecjenas above-mention'd, as likevvife thofe of Horace, and of Quintilius Varus, which they now call Qmntiliano. Horace, in an ode infcrib'd to Varus, encourages hiiia to plant vines, before any other tree, at this villa. Nullum, Vare, facra 'vite prius feveris arborem Circa viite JohiinTiburis, ^ mania Catili. L. i. od. i8.. Dear Varus, urge thy wife dc-fign. And chiefly plant the noble vine In Tibur's fertile (hade. Or round Catille's wall.. Creech.. This was Varus the poet, according to Monfieur Dacier, and not the general, who perifh'd in Germany. Horace defcribes- himfelf making verfes, at his own vil!a here. ■ — — • — £^£7, apii matinee More modoque Grata carpentis thyma, per laborem Phcrimum, circa 7iemus, uvidique Tiburis ripas, cperofa parvus Carmina fingo. L. 4. od'. 2^. I, like a bee, with toil and pain. Fly humbly o'er moift Tibur's plain. And with a bufy tongue The little fweets my labours gain I work at lafl; into a fong. Creeg». Between this place and Rome, Horace feems, at one part of bis life, to have divided his time, being alternately fond of each. Komce Tibiir amo vefitofus, T'ibure 'Rsmam. At Tibur Rome, at Rome I Tibur love. Creech. In our way to Tivoli we faw fome confiderable remains of Lh.e ViJIa Adriana ; where were fchools of philofophy, and a temple T I V O L I. 369. s temple dedicated to fcven deities ; the nii-hcs which licld their (iatues arc ftill to be fccn. There are fcveral vaults-, ro- tonda's and others, of the opiis reticttlatum. The whole is brick-work, laid in fcveral manners. There arc ornaments of flucco in fome of the roofs. This villa was of a vaft extent, as is now feen by its ruins. In the fame way, juft by the river Anio, we faw a large fepulchral monument, v/hich tiie inlcrip- tions that are on it Ihcw to be of the Tlaiitii. One of them I tranfcrib'd, which was for Marcus Plautius, and is as fullowa-. M . PI.AVTIVS • x\I. F . A ■ N • SILVAN VS COS . vTl VIR. EPVLON . £1VIC . SENATVS . TRIVMI'IIALIA ORNAMENTA DECREVIT OB . RES • IN . ILLYRICO BENE . GESTAS LARTIA . CN. F . VXOR A • PLAVTIVS • M • F . VRGVLANIVS VIXIT • ANN . IX . Here feems fome difficulty in the lafl line of tlie infcrip- tion, as to the age of Plautius ; which fome explain thus, (but idly enough, I think) That of the years of his life, only the lall nine are reckon'd, wherein he had fignaliz'd himfclf in the fer- vice of the common-wealth. But poffibly there may be an- other way of eafing the difiiculty, if we fuppofe what now ap- pears to be JX to have been once LX, and the tail of the L worn out by time. In the little while I had to copy the in- fcription, I confefs I had not time to confider it, nor can I now take upon me to remember whether the fpace between the pre- fcnt I and X be fuch, as to admit of a fuppontion, that the former might once have been an L or no. If it be, that feems much the cafieft way of clearing the matter. The other infcrip- tion was for Titus Plautius, fon of Marcus, Legat. t? Com^ Claudii Ccvfaris in BritanmJ, Sec. The red of the infcription was very long ; fo I did not tranfcribe it. ALBA- A L B A N O. A L B A N O. WE made an excurfion likewife from Rome to fee Al- bano, [about fifteen miles thence] and the places about it. It is thought by the inhabitants, and by fome writers not very modern, to have been the Alba Longaof the antientsj but that is doubted by others. We took in our way thither, Marino, (a town already mention'd) where we faw, in the new church, the fincft pidlure that Gucrcin del Cento is known ever to have painted. It is the Flaying of S. Bartholomew. The de- fign is bold, and the colouring excellent. In another church there, we faw a celebrated picture of Guido, a dead Chrif}, and Padre Eterno. From hence we went to take a view of the Lacus Albanus famous in the Roman hiftory, now called Lago di Caftello Gon- dolpho, from the Pope's country-feat of that name, which is fituated on a moft pleafant eminence on one fide of it. On the o- ther fide is mount Algidus, whither Hannibal came with his ar- my, and thence took a view of Rome when he was going to make his encampment before it ; which has been already fpoken of. The lake is about two miles round, lying as it were in a bafon of high hills which furround it. We went down a diflicult and unfrequented defcent on one fide, to fee ths outlet of it, made puifuant to the anfwer of the oracle at Delphos, and one of the mofi: antient works now to be ken. It is call'd by Cicero {Diviiiationuw, 1. i.] AdniirabiUs oquce Alhanrs dediiBio, The account of the whole matter, as given by Livy, 1. 5. is fomewhat extraordinary. The fum of it is this : While thq Romans were at war with the \'eientes, they were alarm'd by what they efieem'd an extraordinary prodigy, that the Alban lake, without rain, or any other apparent caufe, was rais'd to an unufual height. They fent to confult the oracle upon it \ before the return of the mefiengers, a prifoner they had taken among the Veientes explain'd the matter to them. He told tliem, Sic librh fatallbus, ftc difcipUnd Etrufcd traditum eft, lit quando aqua Albaim abundajjety turn fi eum RomarMs rit} emiJiff'ct, "victor tarn de Veientibiis dari; nntequai7i id fiat, Decs nhmia Vciintivm dcfertzircs ncn rfjc. " It is fo ftt down in " the Jiui ,^f^. /jn/fOuAi^aU A L B A N O. 37r •' the books of Fate, and lb dcliver'd by the Thiifcan difciph'ne, " that vvhcntvcr the Alban water fhouKi Ivvcll extraordinarily, " then, if the Romans Hiould in due manner let it out, they " fliould vanquifli the Veientes ; 'till then, the gods would " never forfake the Veientine vvalli.." The meillngers returii'd from Delphos with an anfwcr from the oracle, conformable to what the Veientine captive had declared ; part of it in thefe words : Romane, oquam Albav.cim cave lacti contineri, cave in mare mannre fuo f.umine Jinas. Etiiif- fam per agros rigabis, dijjipatamque rivis extingiics. "Roman, " take care the Alban water be not kept \Aithin the lake. " Take care thou fuffcr it not to run with a llream into the " fea. Let it out into the fields : divide and branch it into •' trenches, and fmall channels, foas that it may bedifperfed and " loft." The water was accordingly let out into the fields, and the Veientines were made fubjedl to the Romans. The pafiags is cut thro' a rock; it is about a yard wide, and four yards high at the mouth of it; and extends tofuch a length, that, as you Took into it, the arched top and the current at the bottom fcem as it were to meet -, or undiftinguifticd, at laft, become both left: in darknefs. There is now a conftant current of clear water, which they can make greater or lefs at pleafure, having flood- gates to keep the lake up higher, or let it down lower, as there is occafion. Further on, at the fide of the fime lake, is the Villa Barbe- rini, which was once the villa of Pompcy. Here were what they called horti penjiki, gardens made upon portico's, which were brought down in fevcral defcents one below another, to t!ic lake on that fide the hill. The like were on the other fide, towards Albano, where the portico's do many of them now remain. There is one long and large portico, which has fome remains of the old painting now on its vault, with ornaments of ftucco, in compartiments as the Pantheon. Near Albano, by the fide of the great road there, which i"; the Via Appia, they fliew an antique monument, which the\ call the fepulchre of the Horatii and Curiatii ; of whom fomewhat his been already mention'd. Thefe brothers could not be buried together in this monument, if we will believe Livy, 1. I. " iSepukhra extent, quo qidlque loco ccc'tdit, duo " Romandy, 372 A L B A N O, 6cc. " Romcina, uno loco propius Albam, tria Albana Rommn verfus ; "fed dijlanfia locis, ut & pugnattan ejl." " The fepulchres *' are now to be feen, in the place where each of them fell : " thofe of the two Romajis in one place nearer Alba ; thofe of ■" the three Albans, towards Rome, but [thefe] in diftant places, " as they had likewife feverally fought." Livy's words are fo exprefs, as tho' he had forefeen the error they would be of uk to redlify. However, fome are of opinion, that this may have been an Honorary Monument in memory of them. The remains of five pyramids there are, [the number of thofe that died,] on one large bafe. They fliew'd us the vale, a little below, toward GenHmo, where they fay the adtion was per- form'd ; the ceremonies preceding it, as well as the aftion it- ielf, are finely defcrib'd by Livy. At Genfano we faw the nemus, [grove] znifpecuhim DiancSy [looking-glais of Diana.] From the old nemus, the place now retains the name of Nemi, and the lake, that of Lago di Nemi J and fometimes of Specchio di Diana, flill. The lake is almoft fquare, about a mile in compafs : we faw it from a convent of Capuchins, who have a fine garden, the befl of any belonging to that order that I have {ztn. At Genfano, we were brought to the villa which was Carlo Maratti's, where we faw feveral of his pictures, which, as well p.s tiiole I mention'd in the Cipitol, remain'd undifpofed of. The wines of Albano and Genfano are very pleafant, and much cfteem'd at Rome : they are white. Horace celebrates the for- liicr, 1. 4. od. II. TLil mihi nonum fuperantis annum Fleniis Albani cadus. • — — r— I have a cafl<. of Alban wine Full nine years old. — ■ — Creech. And Pliny gives it the next place after the Setlnum and Fa- lernum. How A L B A N O, £cc. How gooil foever fome of the Italian wines arc, that is no temptation to the people for drinking : they are general! v nt this day extremely fober. It I'eems to have been othcrwife with them formerly, by what we find in theantient poets, and particularly Martial, of their drinking a glafs for every letter in the name of the perfon they were toafling. Nivvia/ex cyathis, Jl-ptem Jujlina blbatur. Na^via fix glaflcs, fcv'n Jullina claims. Another inllance we have upon the occafion of a fine filver cup prefcnted him by Inltans Rufus. Dd numerum cyathis Injlant'is litera Riifi, Alitor cnim tanti muneris ilk mihi. L. 8. ep. 51. For ev'ry letter of his name, fill up A bumper to the donor of our cup. If his miflrefs Telethufa comes to him according to appoint- inent, to keep himfelf in plight for her, he will venture on no more than four glalles, the number of letters in Rufe, the vocative of Rufus, the laticr name only, ?nd the third part of the whole : if it be doubtful whether flie comes or no, he takes fevcn, which is the number of letters in Inftans, the firft name : if Ihe difappoints him, in not coming according to aflig- naiion, to drown his care, he refolves to drink a glafs to every letter in both the names of his donor, i. c. twelve. SifaUit amantcm Ut jiigulem curas, nomcn utrumquc blbam. To drown my cares, if flie negleft my flames, I'll Inlhms Rufus drink thro' both his names. Inftead of that fort of work, they now-a-days never diink between meals, y?/3rrt di pajlo, (to ufe their own exprefijon) and then very fparingly. So that if any of them happen to Vol. II. ^ 13 come ?73 374 BOLSENA. RADICOFANI. come in juft after dinner, before the wine is remov'd, 'tis not thecufto'mtoafkthem to drink. If they are thirfty, whether you aflc them orno, and whether it be there or no, they will defire a glafs of wine and water, for one draught, and no more. BOLSENA. AT Bolfena, [about forty miles from Rome] in a church- yard, is an old Sarcophagus fet on two pieces of pillars, with fome odd fculptures in baffo-relievo. At one end is a woman naked, more than from the waift upward, — qiice mi- ditatem fatyri prehendit '. at the other end -is Silenus drunk, fupported by one behind him, who embraces him round the middle; and there are other figures on each fide of him : on one fide of the Sarcophagus are two lions heads, larger, in pro- portion, than thofe of the other figures : a woman lying down, almoft naked, with other naked figures, boys, &c. On the other fide are two Mcdufa's heads, large as life : a youth playing on the tib'm dextra & Jinijlra, [pipes, one for the right hand, and the other for the left :] another with an inftrument, crooked at one end, as the Augur's flafFis de- fcribed ; moft likely to be here that fort of trumpet which in fhape refembled the Augur's {tafl\, and thence borrowed the name of littms, or fome other, not much difi^ering from it, ufed in the Bacchanalia, [the feafls held in honour of Bacchus :] a Satyr, with his hands tied behind him, butting with his head at a goat : this laft is an exceffive comical groupe. We may fee by fuch a fett of fanciful ornaments how merry the antients made with death. This Sarcophagus, as a notable memento mori, is placed hard by the entrance into the church. This ' town fiands at the corner of a fine lake, which bears the fame name, Lago di Bolfena, which they told me is thirty miles in compafs. About twenty miles further, at Ponte Centino, we leave the Pope's territories, and enter thofe of the great duke. About eight miles from thence is the caille of Radicofani, the firfton the great duke's frontiers that way : it flands on an high eminence, which is rais'd confiiierably above the rtfi: of the mountain. Below the caftle, there is a large and well- < built SIENNA. built inn, with a, chapel in one part of it, erc<5led by the great duke, for tlie convenience of travellers ; for, tho' there is a town on the mountain, below the caftle, the afccnt to ic from the road is difficult. Ju(l before the inn is a fountain of very good water. There are fevernl high mountains on each lide of this, whofe tops are generally covered with clouds. The country is rocky and barren hereabouts, but the niads arc well pav'd, as they arc generally throughout the great duke's dominions ; much better than in thofe of his holinefs. In the way further on, towards Sienna, we palled at fomc diftance by Mont Alcino, and Monte Pulciano, famous for their wines. S IE N N A. npHE dome of Sienna is a fine ftru^flure, the materials are sienna, -*• rich, and the workmaniliip mod elaborate : it is all of mar- ble, infide and out : the ornaments are exquilitely nice in the Gothick way. The great pillars of the church are black, and white xmxh\t^ Jlratum fiiper Jlratum, alternate} which looks tawdry; but the floor has an ornament truly fine, and uncom- mon : it is defigned, in Scripture-ftories, by Domenico Becca- fumi, commonly called Meccarino ; the defigns are not Mofaic, (as fome have faid) but are engraved in white fnarble, and the gravings filled up with a black mixture. The ftyle of thefe de- figns is truly great, and in fome parts well executed, particularly in that of Abraham ofi'ering Ifaac : they keep them cover'd with boards framed and joined together as lb many table-leaves, at all times, except when they (hew them to ftrangers. Signer Spanochi, a nobleman of Sienna, has the original defigns : I went to have beg^'d a fight of them, but he happen'd to be out of town. The Capella Chigi in this church made by pope Alex'ander VII. is exceeding beautiful, and in a true tafte of architedure. There are in it two fine fi:atues of Bernini ; S. Mary Magdalene, and S. Jerom ; and two fine paintings of Carlo Marat, a Holy Family, and the Vifitation of the B. Vir- gin. Thefe they do not always fliew, unlcfs enquired after. A place they call the Old Library, but which has now no books in it, is painted in compartimcnts on the wall, the Hiftory of Pope Pius II. TEneas Sylvius, defi^^n'd by Raphael, and executed, as moft agree, by Pintnriccio, but as they fay there, B 2 by Hi '%1^ SIENNA. by Pictro Peruglno, who was Raphael's rtwfter. The faces are many of them portraits : they are moft of them exceed- ing frefli and beautiful, not the lead damag'd by fo long a time, not lefs now than two hundred years : there are feme real embofTments of horfe-trapping?, fword-hilts, bzc. which look a little tawdry. Under each hiftory is an infcription to declare the fubjedl. Mr. Miflbn has made a great blunder about one * of thefe, and in a fucceeding addition ftands to it. He tells us, vol. II. p. 315, of the Englilli edition, that " The Pope's " foul flying up under the figure of a Bird of Paradife, and the place, the <( {^g honeft hermit gazing on it, is a much efteemed piece.'* ltay.''''°^'''^Thatis not thefubjedl of the piece, nor is anyfuch thing in it. The dtfign of the piece is a reprefentation of the expeditior^ of that pope againll: the Turks ; and he is rcprefented in the pidture, living, and going out upon his expedition. That he • 'Tis the fur- theft on your left hand as you come ' ^^?^ died I E N N Z':7 dicii in that expedition, and that his foul was fccn by a hcrnjit <if Camaldoli carried up into heaven, is told indeed in iha Latin lines written under the piece, but ii; not rcprcfentcd in it : nor is there any Bird of Paradifc either feen in the pidurc, or mentioned in tlie inicription. What he might miftakc for that, are two birds flying (not upwards, but) downwards to- wards a tree, one a little after tlie other, and their two tail.s diverging a little, make fuch a fort of appearance as the tail of a Biid of Paradile is reprefented with, as in the dcfign here givjr). He tells us further, that fince, palfing thro' Sienna, he (iid not find this pidure there; and would make the v/orld be- lieve that the picture was removed, in order to contraditSl his relation. They would think that well worth their while, no doubt, fuppofing it could have been done; but this piece, as it happens, is painted on a wall, as the other parts of the (lory are ; and there it remains, and the very fame infcription h(; cites is ftiil under it. In the middle of the fame room are the three Graces, antique, in marble. In the chaptl of S. John Baptifl they have an arm (as they tell you) of that faint : it is kept under three keys, in the poffcflion of three difrerent perfons : fo we had the great mif- forlune not to fee it. But they flicw an infcription as long as the arm, importing. That it was given by a king of Pelopo- iiefus * to Pius II. and by him to this church, 1464. A Thoma" TheMo.-cav Paleologo Pehponneji rcge datum Pio fccundo, £5? ab illo hu'ic cc- ili'/i<se, J 464. The ftrccis of Sienna are fevcral-of them paved with brick fet edge- ways; and in many of the publick places of the city there are figures of the- wolves fet, fingle, upon pillars, and other eminencies, fomc in marble, fome in copper ; feveral cf them have confiderable marks of antiquity. The flie-wolf is (as 1 was told) the arms of Sienna. It is pretty generally known that here is a confiderable uni- verfity; and fome fay that Italian is fpoken btd: here, if you take in both the hnguage and the pronunciation together, which are confidcred feparately in the proverb, Lingi/a Tofcana in bocca Romana. " The Tufcan language in a Roman mouth. ' Tho' Sienna be fo near Florence, and nov/ under its dominion, I did not obferve any cf that guttural pronunciation which the Florentines 373 LEGHORN. Florentines have. They do not hke the Florentine yoke fo well, as to compliment them in their difagreeable manner of I'peaking. LEGHORN. LEGHORN, the Libernum of the antients, now Livorno, is too well known to the Englidi nation to need much to be faid of it. There are fo many Englifli always refiding there, and fo many of our merchant-fliips ufe that port, that our language is underflood by many natives of that place ; fo that even m walking along the ilreets, one Ihould not fpeak that in Englifli, which he would not care to have a Livornine hear. This is the only city in Italy where the Englifli nation is allowed to have the free exercife of their religion. Their chapel is a handlbme apartment in the conful's houfe, which is large and fine, and efteemed the heft in the city. From the top of this houfe one may fee eight or nine feveral independent dominions, or fuch at leaft as have been lately fo. We faw at Mr. Crow's, who was then chaplain of the fac- tory, a fine colledlion of drawings, antique intaglio's, cameo's, and other curiofities. They were (I think) the colledfion of a late viceroy of Naples The {tatue of the Great Duke, with four flaves chained to the pedelfal, is a very noble ornament ; the figures are about twice as big as the life: they lland juft without the city-wall, by the fide of the old port. That of the Great Duke is of white marble, the work of Felice Paima ; thofe of the Haves are of copper; the old flave is by Giovanni de Bologna, the other three by Pietro Tacca ; as I was told by a Florentine fculptor, who has the original clay-models of them the fame fize with the flatues : that of the old flave is moft excellent, and all the flaves are (I thinky better than the principal figure. Some imagine the four flaves to reprefcnt four feveral parts of the Turkifli Dominions : one of the young ones is manifcftly in- tended for a negro. The galley-flaves at Leghorn feem to fare better than thofe at MarfeiUes, Genoa, &c. They are not confined to fleep a-nights upon theirbenches, but have lodgings on Ihore, fuch as they are, in a place they call the Bagnio : they are exceed- ing LEGHORN. ing clofe, and muft certainly be noifome in the hot weather : 1 he beds lie as on fliclves, one over another (with only room enough left between the flielves, for them to creep into the beds) as the bodies do in the catacombs. There arc hofpitalsfor the fiek ; one for the ChriAians, an- other for the Turks ; the former has an altar at the further end, where I faw the piieit officiating, and beds rang'd all along on each fide. Not far off the new port there ftands out in the feaan odtan- gular tower of marble, made by the Pifans when Leghorn was theirs, much in the man; crof that at Athens, asdefcrih'd by Monf. Spon, and others: the eight faces anfwering to the eight winds. The Jews have a handfome fynagogue in this city. The king of Denmark being there in the year 1709, would not go to any of the Roman Catholic churches, but went to the fyna- gogue, as they fay ; of which they keep a memorial in an in- Icription on the ftair-cafe which goes up to it. Leghorn had a narrow efcape from the plague that infe<fted Marfeilles : the officers of the Sanita had once allow'd the cargo of the fliip, which carried the infection thither, to be brought on fhore ; but upon fomefrefh information, it was for- bid by the great duke ; and the deliverance is afcrib'd to an image of the B. Virgin, a little way out of town, called the Madonna di Monte Nero. About four miles from Leghorn is a houfe which they call Palazzo Inglefe; it is a place of refrefliment for the Engliffi that go out a fhooting, and upon other diverfions. There are in the road from Leghorn to Pifa, and alfo on another fide Pila, great woods of cork-trees, ever-green oaks, whofe leaf much refembles that of the cork, Licini [/A'.v] and our common oak: fume of thefe woods are about eight miles long: at the end of one of them, about three or lour miles from Pifa, whither the fea (they lay) formerly came, is the church of S. Pietro in Grado, built in memory of S. Peter's landing there, w'heu he came from Aiuioch in his way to Rome; and in it they ffiew the altar, at which they pretend he faid his firft ma!s. That the reader may have the hillory the more auihenti^-k, the infcription follows, which I took in the church. ^• 379 3^0 D ■ O • M • A *. ANNO A PARTV VIRGINIS XLIV. D. PETRVS APOSTOLORVAl PRINCEPS, DVM ANTIOCHIA ROMAM PETERET, AD PISANViM LITVS APP\TSVS, t HOC IPSO LOCO, VBI MEDIO FERE TEM- PLO sacellvm visit VR, ARA INSTRVCTA MARMOREA IN- CRVENTVM FECIT SACRIFICIVM. " In the forty-fourth " vear from the birth of Chrift, S. Peter, prince of the apo- " iWes, in his way from Antioch to Rome, arriving at the " Pifan fliore, in -f that very place, where, near the middle of " this church, the fhrine, fo much reforted to, now ftands, " built a marble altar,- and offered the unbloody facrifice." They fliew likewife the place where S. Peter tied his boat, v.'ith a grate before it. There are in this church antique pillars of leveral orders, as in fome of the old Bifiiicae about Rome. PISA. p) I S A is of very antient origin, having been built by the ■*- Alphean Pifaans, foori after the war of Troy, . according to Strabo and others, and antiently called Pifas, as* the city in Greece was from whence its founders came. Virgil gives it the fame original, but makes it an;ienter ; intimating it to have been a city, before /Eneas's arrival in Italy. Hos parere jubent A'phece ab origme Pijce Vrbs Etriijca Jolo. • .^n. x. Pifa?, a Tufcan town, fjpplies thefe bands, Pifie, firft founded by . Iphean hands. The city is large and fair, water'd by a fine river, the Arno, which runs through it ; but it is thinly peopled. The principal things they take travellers to fee, are the Dome, thel3aptiftery, the Campo Santo, and the Leaning Tower, all bailt of white marble, and ffcinding near together under one view, in a large open pleafant place. *. I kno* not what tliis [A] fhouM ncan, unit's it be an initi:il for AKTERNO. t Hoc muft be tranflated [^ihat'\ not [riv/], for the ir.fcriptbn is at one end of the church, at a diHance from the chapel. J The PISA. 281 The dome is built, accordirg to fignor Martini (a canon of that church whom wc Uw there, and who has written a large account of it) in the phtce whcic were formerly Adriiii's baths, whereupon he makes the following remark. ; Locum quern pro dctcrgcndis corporuin fordihin fupcrJUtiofa gent'tUtm confccra- vcrat, pro abluendis animarum viaculis rcligiofa civitcis Pl/'ana dediciruit. " Tlie place which the fuperftitious hca- •' thens had confecratcd to the clcanfing away the tilth of the ♦' body, the religious city of Pifa has dedicated to the wafli- " ing out the fpots of the foul." It is a fine ftrudture, and full of paintings, fome of which are verv good : but what I thought the moil: remarkable ornament, was, the three bra- zen gates at the weft end, dcfign'd (as they told us) princi- pally by John de Bologna, afiifted by Francavilla and others ; executed by Fa. Domecino Portigiano, a Dominican, and An- gelo Serrano. This is the account they give there ; but the work feems to be much more anrient than the time of thofe mafters here mention'd. On the middle gate is reprefented the hiftory of the B. Virgin, and on the other two, the hif- tory of our Saviour, in baftb-rclicvo. The feveral ftories arc fcparated by moft curious ornaments of foliage, fruit, birds, lizards, and other anim.ils, all exquifitely perform'd. Without the church, towards the eaft end thereof, ftands a pillar, on the top of which is placed the famous vafe of white marble, given (as they told us) by Julius Ca?far, to the Pifans ; with this hard condition, that they fhould fill it with gold as an annual tribute to him. Somewhat to this purpofc is written upon the plinth on which the vafe ftands, but the name of Julius is not exprefs'd. ^fj^o e il talento die Ctrfare inrpcradorc diede a Pifa, col quale Ji 7mfurava lo cenfo che a lui era data. " This is the talent which Csfar the emperor gave to " Pifa, wherewith they meafured the tribute tliat was paid to " him." The vafe needs not fuch a ftory to make it taken no- tice of: it is a very fine one : but later than the time of Julius Ca^far, The bafto-rclievo's on the outfide of it feem plainly to reprefent the Trimalchio of Petronius, with his ufual atten- dants, and are much in the manner w;th thofe already mention'd in Rome, \\hich arc conftantly by the antiquaries there fo cal- led. But Fa. Montfducon I'unpoics them to be rather r.prefcn- VoL. II. C tations 382 PIS A. tations of a priefl of Bacchus, return'd from fome fundlon of his office, by reafon of the Bacchantes, Silenus, Faunus and Satyrs attending. ' The Baptiftery is built fcmewhat in the form of a bell, and has the efFed: of one : it is a rotonda, whofe fides and cupola- roof do fo reverberate the found of a voice or inftrument, that you have it extremely loud at firft; and then it diminiflies by flow degrees, till it goes ofFatlafl: as at a great diflance. The Campo Santo is built of the fame length and breadth, • According they fay, as Noah's ark was"*: its inner area is encompafs'd with *°""r"count"* curious cloifter of white marble, and is filled with earth the breadth of which was brought from Jerufalem, as ballaft in the gallies of this fabrick is j}-jg pjj'^ns^ when they returned from warring with the Turks, fixty pa^ms" and from thence takes its name ; it was begun to be built in the itslength fiveyear I 200, and was finifh'd in 1278. It is a moft delightful hundred and ^^ucTiure, tho' Gothick : the pavement, which is all of marble, with divifions of feveral colours, has under it the fepulchres of the then noble families of Pifa, &c. and if departed fouls have any pleafure in the pofition of the carcafes they have left behind them, fure thofe of this place have a large proportion of it. All along the wall of the cloifters next the area, under tlie windows, are antique Sarcophagi of white marble, with bafib- relievo's. The other walls are all painted in frefco, quite round and from top to bottom, by Ibme of the firff re- l^orers of painting in Italy, after the terrible fhock all arts had undergone there, by the incurfion of the barbarous nations. The principal hands are, Giotto, Mecharino, BufFalmachi, Benozzo, Sorio, Orgagna, ficc. The fubjedls are chiefly fcrip- tural, with an addition of fbme of their own legends, and other fancies, which have fome particulars whiml^cal and extravagant enough. To begin with the fide we come in at, which is the fouth fide ; the firfi: defign at the ealt end of it, is what indeed more particularly fliits a ccemetermn ; they call it the Triumph of Death. The three next are, Judgment, Paradife, and Hell. Then follow what they call The Lives of the Hermits. After that, the hiftory of the great faint and patron of Pifa, S. Rainerius, in fix compartiments. Then, the flories of fome others of their faints. Lafl of all, on this fide is the fiory of Job,. PISA. ' 3^i Job, in fix large compartiments, by the famous Giotto. All thdc are contain'd in the louth fide. The well end is chictiv taken up with (onie bi(]:ories of the OK! Tcrtanicnt, as queen Hellher and Ahafuerus, Judith and Holofcines. Tlie paint- ings on the nortli fide begin with a rcprcfentaiion of the GREAT CRRATOR, of whom are fccn only the head and hands; for, the whole Ipace between his extended arms is fili'd with hierarchies of angels, the celeflial orbs, with the elements. Sec. as comprehendinc; the whole creation. Then immediately follows the formation of the leveral animals ; of man ; of his plantation in, and his expulfion out of, piradife, with feveral other hiilories as they follow in the Old Teltamcnt, which are continued the whole length of this cloifier without any interruption quite to the end. At the eaft end is a chapel ; and on each fide the entrance into it are likcwife paintings. On that toward the north are continued fome other hiftorics of the Old Telfament. On that toward the Ibuih are the crucifix- ion, re furred ion, and afcenfion of our Saviour. And now, having taken a general view of the defigns, and being come again to the point where I began, I will mention a few particulars in fome of them. In the piece firft mention'd. Death is reprefented by an ugly old woman with a fcythe, flying with black wings : heaps of carcafTcs lie under; empe- rors, kings, pc pes, poor and rich, all contufed : angels are taking the fouls of the juft: out of their mouths, in the fhape of little naked infants ; devils, thofe of the reprobate ; which are reprefented more grofs. An angel and a devil have got that of a fat friar between 'em, in the air, tugging hard, one at each end, which fliall have hini : a crowd of people below, old, poor, lame, and miferable, as wifliing for Death, but (he rather diredls her fcythe to fome gay joung perfons of both fexef, who are making merry in a pleaiant (hade of orange- trees, 6cc. In a corner of this piece is rcprci'ented what they lay is the property of Jerufalem earth (alluding to that in the area) to reduce a body to a flceleton in twenty four hours : in tlie ficii eight hours it (wells; in the fecond, the ("welling is (al- ien t]at, the body corrupted, and worms crawl out ; in the third it is reduced to a fkeleton : but, till fome good proof be produced that this is really the property of Jerufalem earth, I C 2 (hall 384 PIS A. iliall believe It only an inilance of the Triumph of Death which it was the painter's intention to reprefent in the general, piece, in feveral manners. However, in this condition lie three carcalles, in fo many feveral Sarcophagi j and there is one who iliews them to three great perfons who come towards ihem 01 horfeback : one of them leans back, with much dillike, ana. holds his nofe ; the horfe pokes out his head, as frighted, and fnorting. On this piece is written, Schermo difapere e di richezza, Di nobiltate e di prodczza, • Sc. Morter Val niente alcolpo di cojiei *. Nor wlfdom's guard, nor riches, join'd. Nor noble birth, nor val'rous mind f- Sc. Death. Avail againflher-f* blow.— In the piece of the Lafl: Judgment, the painter has put fe- veral particular perfons of his own friends in paradife, and a- mong the reft. Pope Innocent IV. A friar, who is got among the bleffed, is lugg'd out by an angel to take his ftation on the other fide. In the reprefentation of Hell, a great monftrous devil fits in the middle, with flames as it were fliooting from him each way : his underlings are varioufly employed in inflid:ing torments, fome with fcourge&i, which they call Difciplines, and feveral other ways : they are roafting one before the fire, with a great fpit run up through him ; a little devil is turning the fpit at one end, the other end of it is in the mouth of one of the tor- mented. — The piece of roaft-meat, fo fpitted, they tell you, is a Florentine. Very whimfical fancies in fo ferious a fub- jed: ! King Solomon is plac'd in the middle between paradife and hell, the painter not knowing where to put him, becaufe (as they fay there) it is a diiputed point among thedod:ors whe- ther he be faved or damned : they're well employ 'd, furc, in fuch difputes ! In the life of S. Rainerius is reprefented a paf- fage between that faint and a vintner, who brought him water among his wine. The faint ftiews him the coufequence of fuch praflice, by pointing out to a devil, who fits perch'd upon a hoglhead PISA. 385 a hogfliead in the form of a flying cat. The faint miraculouny ' Icp.irates the water from the wine, and pours it diftindt upon the ground. In another piece, which reprefents the ftory of Noah and Cham, &c. Nuah lies naked, and a young woman going off, turns back her head, covers her face with her hand, but with tlie fingers Ipread, fo as to fee between them : this figure is what they call the Vergogna [(hame or baflifulnefs.] Several other ludicrous fancies there are, which I forbear repeating : thefe are perhaps more than futficient for a fpecimen of the manner of thinking of thofe old mailers. Mich. Angcio, in his famous piece of the Lalt Judgment, and Zuccaro in his cupola of the dome at Florence, feem to have retained a good deal of the fame ludicrous and capricious way of thinking in fuch fubjeds. The painting in this fine cloifler is moft of it hard, according to the manner then in ufe ; nor is there any great obfervance of the chiaro ofcuro [Raphael himfclf, a good while after, was fcarce come into it j] but many of the countenances are very expreflive and good, particularly in thofe of Giotto and Be- nozzo. In fuch pieces where there is archite(flure reprefented [as particularly in the flory of Job by Giotto,] it is very accu- rately performed, according to the talk of thofe times. There are fevtral fine marble monuments of a later dare, with good fculpture ; one of them is of Philippus Dei-ius Mediolanenfis, who (according to the infcription) not willing to trult thofe who were to come after him, took care himfelf to have a fe- pulchre made for him. — Hoc fepulchrumjibi fubricari ciiravit, iie pojleris fuis crederet. 13ut the moft curious things for an antiquary's obfervation are two infcriptions on marble, fet up in the fouth wall of this fine cloifter : they contain the particulars of the honours de- creed by the Pifan colony to the memory of Lucius, and of Caius Caefar, funs of Au^uftus*; one of them, thofe decreed * Thaiis, by to Lucius, the other thofe to Caius. In thefe we fee authen- *'°f'"*'"- tick inltnnces of fome of the funeral rites obfcrvcd by the Ro- mans, with the manner of their puhlick mourning, txc. In that of Lucius, among other things, it is ordered, " That " a black ox and a black Oiecp, adorned with blue fillets, fliouKl 5 "be 3"86 PISA. " be facrificed to his manes ; and that the facrifices fhould " be burni-Li, and that urns of milk, of honey, and of oil, " fliould fcver.illy be pou:ed upon them, whiht thofe that of- *' ficiated, having their garments tucked up according to the *' Ctbinian rite, flioiild fee fire to the pile of wood, &c. BOS . Er . OVIS.ATRI . INFVLIS . CAERVLEiS . INFVLATI . DIIS . MAN1J3VS . EIVS . MACTENTVR . EAEQ,VE . HOSTIAE . ADOLEANTVR . SVPERQVE . EAS . SINGVLAE . VRNAE . LACTIS . MELLIS . OLE! . FVNDANTVR «• With a C. DVM . ir . QVI . IMMOLAVERINT . CINCTI . * CABINO . RITV . STRVEM . LIGNORVN . SVCCENDANT. &c. In that of Caius is fet forth the general grief at the news of a prince's death, who died of wounds received for the com- monwealth ; VOLNERIBVS . PRO . REPVBLICA . EXCEPTIS, 6cc. and at a time while their forrow was yet frefli for the deceafe of Lucius his brother, who died but the year before. Among other things, •' It is declared to be agreed by general " confent," (for the magiftrates were abfent, to whom it be- longed to command it) " that from the day that his death was " notified there, till the day that his bones fhould be brought " back and buried, and the funeral rites to him compleated, " all ought to go into mourning, the temples of the inmiortal ** gods, and the publick baths, and all the fliops be fhut up, " and affemblies and entertainmen'S be forborn. That the " matrons fliould mourn filently. That the day on which " C. Ctcfar died, which day w.is the 2 i ft of February, fhould " be noted down to pofterity, and remembered as an unhappy " day. That care fliould be taken that from that time for- " ward no facrifices fhould be performed, no fupplications " made, no efpoufals entered into, nor publick feafts ap- *' pointed on the 21ft of February, and that no ftage-plays, " or games of the circus, fhould be performed or ken on that " day; inafmuch as on that day annually, funeral rites (hould *' be performed to the manes of C. Casfar by the magiftrates •' of Piih." OPORTERE . EX . EA . DIE . QVA . EIVS . DE- * Itiswlih CESSVS . NVNCIATVS . ESSET . VSQyi*. AD . EAM . DIEM. an I. QVA . OSSA . RELATA . ATQVE . CONDITA . IVSTAQV'E . EIVS . MANIBVS . PERFECTA . ESSENT . CVNCTOS . VESTE . MVTATA . PISA. 387 MVTATA . TEMPLISQVE . DEORViM . IMMORTALIVM : BALNErSQVE . PVBLICIS . ET . TABERNIS OMNIBVS . CLAV- SrS . CONVICTIBVS . SESE . APSTINERE . MATRONAS .... SVBLVGERE . DIEMQVE . EVM . QVO DIE . C. CAESAR . OBIt . QUI . DIES . EST . A. D. VTUT K. MARTIAS PRO . ALLIENSI . LVGVBREM . MEMORIAE . PRODI . NOTARI- QVE CAVKRIQV^E . NE . QVOD . SACRIFICIVM . PV^BLICVM . NEVE . QVAE . SVPPLICATIONES . NIVE . SPON- SALIA . NIVE . CONVIVIA . PVBLICA . POSTEA . IN . EVM . DIEM FIANT . CONCIPIANTVR . INDICANTVRVE • NIVE . Q\'I . LVDI . SCAENICI . CIRCIENSESVE . EO . DIE . FIANT . SPECTENTVRVE . VTIQVE . EO . DIE . QVOD ANNIS . PVBLICE . MANIBVS . EIVS . PER . MAGISTRATV^S . EOSVE . Q.VI . PISIS . IVRE . DICVNDO . PRAEERVNT . EO- DEM . LOCO . EODEMQVE . MODO . QVO . L. CAESARI . PARENTARI . INSTITVTVM . EST . PARENTENTVR. And all this is let forth to be PRO iMAGNITVDlNE TANT.E AC TAM IMPROVISE CALAMITATIS. " Upon account of the " greatnefs of a calamity fo heavy and fo unforcfeen." It is likewlfe agreed that a triumphal arch rtiould be erected, and adorned ivith the fpoils of the nations Caius had conquered, &c. and with a ftatue of Caius in a triuii:iphal habit, and with equellral ftatues gilt of Caius and Lucius both. I made en- quiry concerning the arch, but could not hear of any remains of it, or of the ftatues. Thus much of the fubftance of the infcriptions may fuffice here: they are publiflied at large in canon Martini's book above-mentioned*, which we compared carefully with the , 5^^,^^^ ^^^ originals, and marked fome little differences; as in that to dinal Noris Caius, he has CLAVIS, after TABERNIS OMNIBVS, inflead of"FO"i^«'"- CLAVSIS ; with fome other literal miflakcs. I have infcrted nothing but what I tranfcribed from tb.e infcriptions ihem- fclvcs, and what agrees exadly with them. While we were com- paring the copies given i;^ Martini, and a tranllript which I had made of the moil material parts, with the original infcrip- tions, and were reading concerning tapers and torches [of ^yhich mention is made in another part not here inkrtcd], in 388 PIS A: came a parcel of friars, all with tapers in their hands, to fing a requiem to fome body that had been buried hard by. — I al- mod thought they were come to do the honours of the decree we were reading. Between thefe infcriptions is a columna mil/iaria, on which Is infcribed as follows : Co-far Impe. CAES . I . AEL . rotor jElius, f—^ -> ADRIANVS . aNoNnVS . AVG . PIVS . P • M • Tr . P . VT . COS . iTT. IMP • 11 . P • P • VIAM . AEMILIAM . VESTVSTATE . DILAPSAM . OPERIB . AMPLIATiS . RESTITVENDAM . CVR . A ROMA . M • P . CLXXXVIII . There are marks of the remains of fome letters in this in- terval, but not legible. AD PISAM TRANSLATA MDCCIV. The famous Leaning Tower ("of which w'e have many print» in England) is a piece of fine architedture, tho' its not land- ing upright has a very difagreeable efFcdt : the people of the place fay that its leaning on one fide was contrived on purpofe by the archited: : if that be true, he feems to have exxelled in an error, and fhewn rather what might, than what ought to be done. But Signor Galilei, the great duke's architecfl, is firmly of opinion, that it was by accident, by the ground's giving way on one fide after it was built ; for that the pedef- tals of the pillars, which are under ground, are in the fame inclined pofition with thofe above ; and (what is more) that the fcafFold-holes, which remain unfilled, are all Hoping. The flairs within, by which we went up to the top, are all inclining too. Though it appear fo tottering, it flands very firm, the whole being of marble, and the parts very well cramped and cemented together, fo that it may be confidered only as one ilone, and the center of gravity falling confidera- bly within the bafe. I forbear L U C C A. 38, 1 forbear faying any thing of the Garden of Simples, and fome other things of lefs note, which they Ihcwed us, to avoid prolivity. From Pifa towards Lucca the country is plain, and well planted, for three or four miles, to the mountain of S. Julian ,- whicli we mounted by fcveral indentures; the afccnt and de- fcent is called three miles. — From thence, the way, for four miles more, lies over a fine, fertile, and well-cultivated plain, to Lucca. LUCCA, ' I^H E Lucchefe are fo fcrupulous and nice, in their care to -■■ prevent infedion, that we were forced to have not cnlv ourfelves and fervants, but our horfcs and our dog fpecified in our Jc'c/e. At the gate the officers took all the tire-arms we had in their curtody, and gave us a tally for reftoring them at our going away : they likewife gave us a billet to be deliver- ed to the landlord at the inn, without which he could not re- ceive us. So careful is that little republick againll any furprize too! the town is well fortified, and the walk on the ramparts is very pleafant, and fliews a fine country below it. The better fort of houfcs are handfomely adorned with architedlurc at the entrance. In the church of S. Fredian is the tomb of S. Richard, a king of England, unknown to our chronicles : he was father to S. Valburga, to G. Villebald, and S. Vinebald, as Ibme monk- ifn verfes there fct forth, which I forbear troubling the reader with. In the church of S. Michael is a monument eredted to a billiop of Worceller, Siht'/lro Giiio, Epifcopo JFigcrnien. Bri" /unfiiit Regum Uenrici VII. & I'lIL cipud Tout. Max. Le- gato. The chapel of the Volto Santo, in the great church or dome, flands ijolata, and has on its outfide the four Evangc- lifts, and ij. Sebaftian in white marble. The Volto Santo is an image of Nicodemits, to which the Lucchefe pay very great venefation, and their coin is ftampff'd with a copy of it. One of their ftories concerning it, is, that a poor man praying Vox.. IL D before ]0o L U C C A. fore that image, for relief in his extreme poverty, the image having a pair of filver llippers on at that time, threw one of them to him : the flipper was miffed, and the poor man feized : he confeffed he had it, but declared how he came by it : the flipper (however) was taken away from him, and pat again upon the foot of the image ; but the image again tofled it to the poor man ; and the foot, that had kick'd away the flipper, re- jnaining held up after, they thought fit to put a chalice under it, to fupport if, which we fee continuing under it ftiU.. In the church of S. Auguftine, in one of the fide-chapels^ is what they call tlic Itnagme MiracidofZf the Miraculous Image,, or pidlure : it is a pidlure of a Madonna, with a Chrifl; upon her left arm ; they fay that originally flie held him in her right- arm ; bat that an unfortunate gamefter, being enraged, and defperate at the lofs of his money, and imputing to the Virgin his ill fortune, and blafpheming, threw a flone at her, which coming diredly at the head of the Chrift^, flie dextercufly fhlft- ed him to her left arm, and received the blow upon her own Ihoulder J from whence the blood immediately ifl!ued. Howel» in his letters, mentions a pidure in France of which they tell alike flory : but they further add here, that the gamefter im- mediately funk into the ground up to his middle, and ftuck fo for about two hours, to give him time to repent, and afk the Blcfled Virgin's pardon ; but he continuing ftill to blafpheme,, at laft funk downright ; and the hole which is ftiil open, thro' which he fell, they tell you is not to be fathomed. They unco- ver it for the curious and the devout to look into, but at the depth of a few feet, you fee an iron grate crofs it, which breaks any further view into the pretended great abyfs. On the wall,, ever the hole, are thefe two verfes cut in marble : Proluat lit culpam dat Virgo faiiguinh undam. At cadit ignorans impius ejje piam. To cleanfe his fault, her blood the Virgin gives ; But the wretch finks, nor yet the grace perceives. And over that is painted in frefco the fellow naked, (for he- liiiid loflifliirt and all) fluck to the wafle in the ground, with flames LUCCA.- fl.imes all about him. Some drops of the blood, which they j)ietend came out of the flioulder of the pifture, are preferved \vithin a cryftal, and Hicwn with great ceremony, tapers be- ing lighted up, and rhcpriefl: that fliews it being folemnly clo- thed in his vertments, with other affiants attending. We were unawares led to this extraordinary fight by a Genoefe abbcf we met with in the church, but were not appriz'd of the pom- pous apparatus and folemnity which was to attend it. The company was ail to kneel, and kils tiie facred relique as the prieli handed it about : one of the company, whom the pricft obferved to kifs it but flightly, and not to touch the cryftal with his lips, but fome gilt pillars only with which it was arm'd, gave it a further thrull forwards, to the hazard of ths gcD'JeaKin's teeth. The Genocfo abbe was got in the rear of a numerous company, that had got together, upon hearing the facred relique wa^ to be expos'd, and the pricft had like to have mifs'd him ; upon which he call'd our, lo non ho bafiato [I have not kifs'd itj and had it then handed to him. It was hoped his 2eal would atone for the other's lukewarmnefs. A fine golden crofs which they keep at the Dome was pawn'd to them by the Pifans, while they were a republic, on condition the money ihould be repaid on a certain day, or the crofs be forfeited; as I was inform'd by the Genoefe abbc; wlio told me further, (what I fliould hardly have heard from a Lucchefe) that the day the Pifans were to come with their mo- ney, the l.ucchcfe form'd a iliam tumult in their city, and un- der that pretence fhut their gates ; fo that when the Pifans came, they could not get admittance, and thus incurr'd an in- voluntary forfeiture, thro' the artifice of the others. P I S T O I A. T) I S T O I A, about twenty miles from Lucca, and the fame -■■ from Florence, is fubjeit to the great duke : it is a good town, with fair open ftreets. The church of the Madonna dell" Humilia is the beft archi- tcdure of any I obferv'd there : it is sn ocflagon : the general look of it wrLia puts one ii mind of the Pantheon at Rome. D 2 Lt r9i 39^ P I S T O I A, &CC. In an obtong portico at the entrance, are paintings in frcfccrj which repreVent feveral feails of a miraculous Madonna, which is kept in the church. The dome or great church is nothing extraordinary. The Baptiftery, oppoiite to it, is a handibme plain building ; a ro- tonda. ... . , ■ There i^ another church [I think it is the Annunciata] in- crufled all with marble on the outfide, but nolhing extraordi- nary within. It was market-day when we were there ; I obferv'd a banner hanging out in the market-place > which they told me was a re- ftraint from felling fo long as that hung out, to prevent fore- ftalling, and to allow time for more fellers and buyers to come in. In the mid-way between Piftoia and Florence is Poggio a. Caiano, one of the great duke's country-feats. There is a hall, which was begun to be adorn'^d by Pope Leo X. finifli'd by Fran- cefco de' Medici, the fecond grand duke. Here are frefco- paintings by Andrea del Sarta in 1521, and by Alexander Al- lorius in 1582. On the cieling of the next room is the apotheofis of Cofmo the firll:, by Gabbiani, a painter living at Florence, when we were there ; — the youngeft man of feventy years that I have feen ; and a good mafter. — I hear fince that he died unfortu- nately 3 painting, after that age, in a high part of fome church,, and unwarily ftepping back to view his work, he fell off the fcaffold to the ground. There is another room furnifli'd with fmall piftures of feveral eminent mafters, Leonardo da Vinci, Caracci, Barocci, 6cc. A Holy Family, by Han. Caracci : The countenance of the Chrift excellent. We faw a fine copy of this afterwards, done by Fratolina, a female artift of Florence, who comes nearcft to Rofa Alba of Venice for miniature, and I think does at leall . equal her for crayons in large. Another Koly Family by Lucio MaiTari, well perform'd, but of a low thought: — theB. Virgin is waihing linen: Chrift is wringing them ; and Jofeph is hanging them on the hedge to dry. Abundance of excellent pieces there are in this room., too many to enumerate, z. F L O- ^....,. ! =r^fc -# ;=S==^==^=J" , _^ ^ O" 'r^a^iiwiiiwipiiiiiiiiir 1^^ Di ^^^^^^^3| f 1 1 a W^fz-A/c J??/-/./^ ^/ C/'U^^UY /m t'^,-/,^/d /'//r/ii'. F L O R E N" C n, F L () R E N C E. TT is not undcfervedly that this place has obtain'd the name ■*■ of Florence the Fair. Nothing can be more pleafant than its fituation, as we iaw it, and the country on all fides of it, from the top of the cupola of the dome. It flands in the middle of a fine fertile plain, all planted with vines, &c. that again encompafs'd alnioll round with hills, whofe bottoms are very agreeably enliven'd with a great number of pleafant villa's cf the nobility, and other private houfes. The river Arno runs thro' the city, and has four handfomc bridges over it j one of which is particularly celebrated : it was made by Ammanati ; the arches of it, after a rife of a few feet from the place whence they fpring, are turned in the form of a cycloid ; a particularity which they fiy no other bridge in the world has. It is all of fine white marble ; and there are four ftatues of the fame, re- prtfenting the four feafons, two placed at each end of the bridge : the whole is very fine, and I have therefore given a draught of it, as taken with great cxatflncfs by Signor Galilei, the great duke's architcift above-mentioned, who is a mofl excellent ar- tiH, and a perfon the mod; obliging, the mod: communicative, and of the greatell civility in all refpe<5ts that I think we met with in our travels ; he was fome time here in England, and ex^rcfles a particular refped: for the EngliHi. He was very lerviceable to us upon many accounts, both while we were at Florence, and after we left it. The flrcets are pav'd with broad flat ilones, after the manner of the old Roman ways. Abundance of very good ilatues are interfperfed in the publick parts of the city ; fome antique ; others by Michael Angelo, Baccio Bandinelli, John de Bologna, Donatelli, and other eminent fculptors. The palaces are fome of them very noble: all of them, al- mofl:, adorned after the true Tufcan manner, v/ith the heavy ruftick charges : this, in the largefl; buildings, has a very good effedl; but not fo good in the fmall ones. In all. it feems to me to agree much better with the flat parts than with the pillars. The more modern churches are built in a good tafte ; the red Gotliick, bu[ line in their way. It has fo happened to many of tiie S7i 194 FLORENCE. tTie churches in Italy, (but more, I think, in this city than others) that the front, which has been referv'd to a more than ordinary degree of ornament, has often fail'd of having any at all : fo that many of them we fee wholly in the rough, expect- ing fuch finery as never yet has happen'd to be beftow'd upon them. That of the dome continued for a long time fo, till at . liift at the marriage of the late prince Ferdinand, it came off with painting indead of porphyry. All the reft of the church (and 'tis very large) is overlaid quite round with marble, the pannel white, with borders of a darker colour; and the reft of the ornaments difpofed with a very agreeable fancy. Its firft archittdt was Arnolfo di Cambio, difciple of Cimabue, who was the firft reftorer of painting in Italy. Though the fine tafte of architecture as well as painting was then in its iiTlancy, that church mny truly be called :\ beautiful ftrudlure. The cupola was made fome time aher, v-i a better tafte of architedlure, by Brunellefcho, the greateft man of his time, and now highly celebrated in Florence. This cupola was the firft in Italy, raifed upon another building, as Sigrior Galilei told us; and when the architeift made his propofal for doing it, it was received with furprize, and looked upon as a thing not to be done by any other art than that of magick. However, he compleated it according to his fcheme ; and it has been as it were the parent of the great numbers that have been made fincc. It was particularly ftudied by Mich. Angelo, when he fet about that at S. Peter's at Rome, and while he was con- lidering it, he declared, that juft fuch a one as that he would not make, and a better he could not : —come te non voglio, .megllo di te non poffo. It is finely painted on the infide by Fe- derico Zuccaro : the fubjed: of the upper part is the Refurrec- tion. A reprefentation of Hell goes round the lower part, Avith a world of capricious fancies, in the fame way of think- ing with thofe of Pifa above-mentioned. There are fome good ftatues in the church ; and the floor is finely pav'd with marble, but its other ornaments vv-ithin are not extraordinary for that country, nor equal in proportion to the iinifh'd beauty of the outfide : we obfcrv'd within, a pidlure of asi Englifli knight, Sir John Hawkwood, mounted on a pacer, Joharincs aciitus eques Britanniciis, dux crtatis fiia caiitif/imus. FLORENCE. & rel mlUtaris peritljjmus habitus eft. Under It is written, Fauli UccclH opus. This charadcr of acutus is taken from that of Fabius Maxinius, in an antique inlLription in the "al- lery of the great duke, which will follow by and by. There is likewife Dante's pid;ure by Andrea Orgagna, walk- ing in the fields, and reading : with this epigraph, in lines i'ar unequal to thofe they fpeak of. ^/7 cat! urn cccinit, mcdiiimqiie, i mum que trihinal, Liijiravitque nnimo ciincla poetajuo ; DolIus adtft Dantes, fiui quern Florcntiafcepe Senjit conjiliis ac pietate pat rem ; Nil potuit tanto mors fctva nocere poeta-, ^tem vivum virtus, carmen, imago facit. Behold the poet, who in lofty verfc Heav'n, hell, and purgatory did rehearfe ; The learned Dante ! whofe capacious foul Survcy'd the univerfe, and knew the whole. To his own Florence he a father prov'd, Honour'd for counfel, for religion lov'd. Death could not hurt fo great a bard as he. Who lives in virtue, verle, and effigy. This great man, we are told there, had a moft unhappy itch of pilfering; not for lucre (for it was generally of mere trirics), but it was what he could not help ; lb tiiat the friends whofe iioufcs he frequented, would put in his way rags of cloth, bits of glafs, and the like, to fave things of more value (for lie could not go away without fomething) ; and of fuch as the.'c, at his death, a whole room was found filled. JuU by this church ftands the famous tower of Giotto, built all of marble, chiefly white; tho' the tafle be fomewliat Go- tiiick, according to the time of the architcd, before they had entcr'd fo much into the ftudy of the antique, the ornaments are fo well imagined, the pans io well difpofed, and the whole fo lofty, that it is by much the finell tower I ever faw. It has l\ood three hundred years, and feems as frefli as if it were not n years old- 395^ ;9fe FLORENCE. Juft fronting the church ftands the Baptiftery, built odago- nal. It was formerly, they fay, a temple of Mars. The whole outfide, covering and all, is cafed with marble. It has three pair of brazen gates ; that pair facing the dome is parti- cularly celebrated, and with the higheft juftice : they are adorn'd with hiftories of the Nev/ Teftament in the pannels, with bor- ders of foliage, &c. going between them. The figures are of a much higher relievo than thofe of Pifa, and are indeed moil of them excellently fine. They never fail of telling Mich. An- gelo's compliment upon them, That they were fit only to be the gates of heaven. They were made by Lorenzo Ghiberti. •Gallery. The famous gallery [that of the old palace] is fuch a repo- fitory of rarities lying all together, as is not (I believe) to be matched in all Europe. The figure of the gallery is this. The ufual entrance is thro' ^ the lobby on one lide, mark'd with the let tcr [a] ; the walls of it are all fet round, ' i ' ^ ~J~ from bottom to top, with flatues, hurts, ' — ' balTo-relievo's, and antique infcriptions. The length of each • The paces wing of the gallery is two hundred and ten of my paces*, with which I jhe whole fct round on all fides with flatues and bufts; many fbund'byVe- of them admirably good, and others having their value for veral trials to their rarity. ih ^^f"'t There is a feries of the Roman emperors from Julius, down to Gallienus, all except about fix ; and the emprefies of many of them fronting them : where thefe are wanting, the place is fupplied with other figures. Among the emperors, are plac'd Marcus Agrippa, fon-in-law to Auguftus; and Antinous, the favourite of Hadrian. Befides thefe, there are philcfophers, heroes, confuls, mufes, deities, and other figures interfperfed, as Leda with the Swan, Cupid and Pl'yche, very beautiful ; there are ftatues of Paris and of the three goddefies, which tho' done by different hands, and at different times [the Juno is by Mich. Angelo, unfinif]:i'd,the reft antique,] are fo well chofen and difpofed, that they anfwer to one another as tho' they had been originally intended to accompany each other as they do. Paris regards not Jujio nor Pallas, one ftanding towards his right hand, and the other iufl before him; but turns directly to Venus, who is at a further dilfance towards his left ; he reaches out the apple ■^ o 5 ^■ t 1 g ^ ■^ f, >' E V g 55i M III ^^ f 4- 4- » 1 3. s ^ ;<f~ -J ii?: •« Jl t ® S I S -jMtS H S j J ^ j ^ <. ^ s -I i ^ ! refill I f h^ ■n H I J ! t\l I ^ I ^ 1 .1 ,::r >• ^ - %, -^ ^ /: .r„/.„,„. / -^{'^ 397- ///^'/. ^/>. Z8 Jia/r//?//^ ih'^rm^^/Z>i^^^)^^z//^n/ /// C/'/^'r^M^i' ^(./. t^^jy. tZ{^.^m///u^. ^^^h^:^^^tuA^ S^e,^. Jh^.3JJ7 30 /n.^/Y'er^ i^///^' F T> O R E N C E. npple towardiiher, and (lie with a plcafiiig air inclines, as ready to receive it. — I (liall not I'pcak particularly of the I'evcr.il Ita- tues and bulb; it were cndlcfs : hefides that the principal ones Jiave been taken notice of and dcfcrib'd by others : I (hall how- ever, by way of catalogue, annex a fcheme of tiie wiiulc, to Ihew in what order they lland in the gallery. I rook the opportunity while I was there of making fomc HcetLhes, fuch as my time, and the exctflive culd weather would admit ; a few of whicii are here prefciited. TheNjrcilTiis. The Camillus. The Phrygian Commander. A ballb-rclievo, intended, as they f.iy, to reprefent three of the Elements. A Bacchus and Faunus, antique. A Bacchus and Faunus of Mich. Angclo. Of this lad there goes a noted ftory, which is varioufly re- lated by authors, fome telling it of a Cupid ; but at Florence they fix it to this Bacchus, and tiiere relate the llory thus: When M. Angelo's reputation was raifed to a great heiuht, his adverfaries, envious of his fame, had no other way left to lelfen it, than by comparing his works with the antique, and endeavouring to fliew how far he fell (hort of the anticnts : he took a refolution of putting the fkill of hisjudgcs to the tell:, and made this Bacchus, &c. When the work was perfcded, he broke oft' the right hand, which holds a cup, and laid it by ia his clofet ; the rell of the figure he buried, and let it lie Ibme time in the ground : at a proper opportunity, workmen were order'd to dig as for other purpofes, in another part of the ground, and to carry on their work fo, that they iiHift of courfe come to the place where the (latuc was hid : they did fo, and found it; and by dirtdion talk'd of it in fuch manner, as that it might come early to the ear of forne of his adverfaries; who were not long in going to view the new difcovery ; and, when they had cleanfed the earth from it, found a fine groupc of a IBacchus and Faunus all in- Vox. II. E tire. 397 398 FLORENCE. tire, except one hand which was wanting to the Bacchus. They judg'd it ftrait to be antique, and a fine antique too : the difcovery was foon noifed about, and among the reft that flock'd to fee it, M. Angelo came himklf ; he was not ib loud in his praifes of it as the refl: were:- It was a bella cofa, a good pretty thing. '—Well, (fays one of them) you can make as good' a one, no doubt ! He play'd with them a while, and at lafl afk'd them, What will you fay if I made this ? It may eafily be imagined how the queilion was receiv'd : he then only defir'd their pati- ence while he ftepp'd home, as he did ; and brought with him the hand he had broken off: which, upon application, was found to tally exadly with the aim. It was boke off in the fmall part of the arm, juft above the wrift, where the feam is very vifible, and is exprcfs'd in the draught here given. Upon it was made this diilich by an EngliQi gtntleman : JEmuld dum veteres-imitatur dextra, novo/que Fallit fcidptores^ fuperat veterefque novo/que. Thus tranflated, by way of addrefs to the artlft ; Th' old fculptors thou doft imitate fo well. So cheat the new, that thou doft both excel. Under Michael Angelo's unfinifh'd buft of Brutus is written a diftich, commonly faid to be cardinal Bembo's, but fignor Bianchi told me it was made by cavalier Rondinelli j it is as follows, Dum Bruit cffigiem fculptor de mar more jinxlt. In me litem fee ieris venit, & abjlinuit. An Englifh gentleman reading this diftich there, told the perfon who attended, that there was certainly a miftake in the lines i — that they fliould have been thus, Brutum effinxijjet fculptor, fed mente recurfat Multa viri virtus ; fijlit, & objhipuit. Both FLORENCE. Both the diftichs were thus tranflatod by the f.ime gentleman. The fird: thui?, The marble buftdocs now unfinidi'd ftand, The thoughts of Brutus' crime ftopt the great fculptor's hand. The latter thus. The fculptor by th' unfinifh'd piece does tell, He thought of Brutus' worth, and down liis chifel fell. Which latter was likewife tiius paraphras'd by another liand, While Brutus' hufl: th<' artifan defign'd, A'ld the great hero's virtue fill'd his mind ; Whilll: his brave love of liberty he view'd. He drop'd his chifcI, and aftoni(]i'd flood. To defiribe particularly the cieling only of this gallery, would require a volume of itfelf. It is all painted in frcfco, divided into compartiments ; in each of thefe, all along one wing, are reprefented the arts and fciences, and alfo profeffions, qualities and qualifications of feveral forts. Here the titles follow, in the words there given. AgricuUura, Pittiira. Scultura. Architettiira. Pcefia. Ijhria. Eloquenfa. Acadcmia. [fc. the P'lorentinc academics of the Virtuofi.] Miijka. Medicina. Politica. E 2 FHo' 3"09 4©o FLORENCE. Filofofia. Legge. Teologia. Amore delle Lettere. Amove ddhi P atria. Mateniatica. Segreterta. Ainbafciarla. Varia Eruditione. Magnijicenza nellejabriche, Prudenza Civile. Ofpitalita. Fortuna. Valor e Milltare in Terra. Valore Militare i?i Mare. Signorle appreJJ'o gli Straiiieri. JLiberalita. Liber alita verfo la F atria. Prencipi fecondi geniti. Prencipi con Dominio. And about each art are the portraits of fuch Florentines as have excelled in it. There we fee feme of their divines, lawyers, politicians, [Maehiavel is twice defcrib'd there] foldiers, philo- Ibphers of all iorts, moral and natural, aftronomers, geometri- cians, phyficians, anatomifts ; every thing in fliort one can think of. In the other wing are chiefly emblematical and grotefqvie figures. In the end that goesacrofs joining the two wings, are reprefented the virtues of the princes of the houfe of Medici. Le virtu dei prencipi dcllacafa Medici^ With thefe infcriptions. COSMO I. FORTITVDO. Frangit obftantia. FERD. I. VIRTVS. Fraudis viBrix. COSM. 11. PROVIDENTIA. Pmvertit audaciam. FERD, II. PRVDENTIA. Monfirorum domitrix. 6 Some FLORENCE. 401 Some of the councils held at Florence ; Confilium OEcumcui- cum Jul) Eugenia ^iarto. Ecclejice Graoe cum Latmd Con^ cordui. Paiadife, furniflied with Florentine faints. The Inftitution of the knights of S. Stephen [at Pil'a] by Cofmus the FirA. On the wall?, over the ftatues, arc the ritratts of fcveral of the Medici family, and perfons of all nations that have t-xccllcd in arms or arts. There is the duke of Marlborough [two of him,] Sir Ifaac Newton, Dr. Wallis, Mr. Boyle, Mr. Ray, and feveral others of our nation. We were then conduded into fcveral rooms, into which there are pafl'ages out of the gallery. In the firft we faw about two hundred ritratts of fo many different painters, all drawn by their own hands : and the flatue of the cardinal [Leopoldo de' Medici] who begun the colledion. The next is what thev call the Chamber of Porcelain, where are abun- dance of vcflels of Chincfe, y^^gyptian, and other earths. In the third we faw a world of i^gyptian, and other antiertt idols in copper, antique lamps in great variety ; one had the figures of the fun and moon, preceded by a Triton founding ; an- other was the image of Night, with bats and owls about her fhoulders. Among fcveral old urns we f.iw there, I obfcrved one in- fcribed, H MNHMH AF.I0AAH2 : " The memory of the good' is ever"#tHTrtft»rng." Tliis might probably be one in the early ages of Chrilli.mity ; as Ibme vota, and lamps we obferved were faid to be; one whereof was in* Flora fur- the form of a fliip, with S. Peter at the helm, and S. Paul [or iJ^J^^^;;;;;^"^'^ Chrift, acceding to fome] preaching*. Two or three tri- fc- Bdlori''.* podes : and fevcral inftruments ufed in facriiices, war, baths, ''""'''« ^"- n '• ■\ f • 7*-i_rt. ftrHrr i>t'itl- as flrjgils, &:c. A corona mira/'s in hr^As, thus 3 fA.-mV,. put. A.iii. 6^- .u« FLORENCE. A corona radiata of eight rays, with the refemblance of a lyger on one fide. The aqulla and the manus, both miHtary enfigns. The eagle is infcribed, Legion. XXIIII. Some te(fera of copper.: here are the figures of two of them; t a •On that marked with the afterifk, there is this infcription, IVBEO ET IS EI SI FECERIT GAVDEBIT SEMPER. Thefe, | FLORENCE. Thefc, according to foine, are of the kin J whith were called fortes pranejlince, ufed in divination ; a fort of lots, which were put into a box, each having its particular nr»ark, and were drawn out by a boy : but to me they feem rather to be the tcj'cr^ >?}i lit ores ; which were a fort of tallies made fometimes of copper, as thefe are, fometimes of filver, and fon)etimcs ivory, having a particular infcription, either of a fingle word, or ot a fcnteiice; which, at the fctting their night-guards, was given from one Centurion to another, quite thro' the army, till it came again to the Tribune who at firll delivered it. The like were alfo made ufe of at the beginning of engagements ; at which time the word or fentencc was communicated by the general to the chief officers, and by them to the whole army, juft before the onfet. This kind of tally was alfo delivered to every foldier, to dirtinguidi him from the enemy. Among the feveral figure? we fee in the Roman ftandards, on the Trajan and Antonine pillars, (befidcs \.ht mafius or aquila, 6cc. which are at the top of each) thi? kind of tefj'erce are often repeated ; which confirms me in the opinion that thefe I fpeak of arc tejferce miiitares. Fa. Mtintfaucon, among the teffcra he def- cribc-s has two, not much unlike thefe : one of his is in this form. 4^: G infcribed thus, DE VERO FALSA NE FIANT IVDICE TALSO. Another thus. infcribed. f AVSTE VIVAS. He A^^ FLORENCE. He does not determine for what particular purpofe thefe. were ufed : but the infcription in the tirft feems evidently de- figncd as fome fort of dilcritnination or diftindion ; which may, not unnaturally, be applied to that of a friend from an enemy : the other plainly contains an omen of good luccefs. And of fuch import were the words they ufed at the beginning of en- gagements, in the clamor, or fliout which they raifed with their voices; and which were alCo infcribed on their tefferce-, a?, ViBoricj, palnia, Deus 'vobifcum., "Triumphus Imperatoris, &c. And perhaps it may not be a far-fetched interpretation, if I underltand that infcription, which is in one of the tejfera I have given, in a military fcnfe ; it contains a word oi command, and an encouragement to him that Jhall aSl according to it. — — IVBEO . ET IS [fc. Romanm mUes] EI [lb. hojii] SI FECE- RIT [fc. ficut jujji] GAVDEBIT SEMPER. I offer this only as my guefs, in a matter not very clear : for the antients feemed fometimes to affed a fort of ablfrufenefs and obfcurity, in the infcriptions they made upon thtk tejjerce : which, no doubt, they had a good reafon forj perhaps that they might not be fo eafily underilood by the enemy, in cafe any of them Iliould come to their hands. Some old Tufcan veflels, with figures on them. An antient yr/V/7///j [dice-box] of brafs. A fmall Apollo [or Orpheus] playing on a violin, much in the fame attitude with the great one in the Villa Montalta, already mentioned. A Juno Sifpita. This figure is a reverfe common enough among the confular medals, particularly thofe ot the Thorian and Procilian family. A Sibyl, dreffed juft like fome of the modern nuns. Andromeda. Amphitrite. The Laocoon, as in the Belvedere. Minotaur, Cleopatra, and feveral other antiques, in cop- per, Befides FLORENCE. 405 Befides thefe, and abundance of other antiquities, (fome of wliich are frequent in other collcdions) there are a great many modern curiolities, which for brevity I omit. The fourth is chiefly furnilh'd with moft elaborate pieces of painting of the Diitcli and Flemilh mailers, finilh'd to a miracle : and in the fame room are two pieces of wa.v-work very curi- ous ; one reprefcnting a Plague ; the other a vault full of car- caffes, in the feveral degrees of putrefadion : no very pleafant fight, but furprifing and admirable for the work. Within that, is the Mathematical Chamber, furnifli'd with mathematical inftruments of all forts. A globe and fpliere of a vafl: fize. A loadflone that bears up between forty and fifty pound weight- On the walls of this room are painted the maps of the great duke's dominions. The next room is furniflied with pii^lures of the moft celebra- ted Florentine, and fome other great mafiers, with curious and coftly cabinets, tables inlaid with marbles, and other richer ftones : in the making of thefe they cxxel much at Florence. The grand duke keeps a great number of men continually em- ploy 'd in works of this kind. One of thefe tables reprefents the old port of Leghorn inlaid in lapis lazuli. Many other curiofities there are of that fort. But what they always referve for the buon boccons, to make up your mouth with, is the glo- rious odangular room called the Tribuna, which looks like a lit- tle temple inhabited by goddefTes ; for thefe are what prefent themfclves firft to view at the entrance. The vault of the roof is adorn'd with circular pieces of mother of pearl fet in a rich ground : the windows, cryftal ; at lead what they call fo ; [they are at a great height above the eye.] The floor delicately paved with the finefl: marbles. The walls are hung with crim- fon velvet ; that cover'd with mofi: excellent matter-pieces of painting* and Mofaic. ;,X"!;. There is Martin Luther by Holbein. Titian. Sir R. Southwell, by the fame ; he was privy counfellor to Corrcggia, king Henry the Vlllth, as mcnuon'd on the frame. A dutchefs of Buckingham, by Rubens. Vol. II. F The 4o6 FLORENCE. The emperor Charles the Vth, on horfeback ; by Titian : with very many others. In the' middle flands a moft rich table of lapis lazuli, and other ftones of very beautiful coiours, and mort delicately fet together. Round this table ftand fix admirable ftatues, all of white marble ; three of them are of Venus, in different atti- tudes : one of them foon dillinguiflies herfelf to be THE VE- NUS OF MEDICIS, fo well known by the copies in England, and all over Europe. To attempt a defcription of this miracle of fculpture, would be to injure it : 'tis enough that it is the moft beautiful part of the creation reprefented in the moft ex- quifitely beautiful manner. If the other two have not fo many ■ ■ beauties as this, they have more than are to be found in moft others J and two excellent ftatues they are ; more efpecially the Venus Urania, which ftands on the left hand of it, and is much of the fame fize : the other, [Venus Vidrix) which ftands on the right, is about a foot higher, much in the lame attitude vi'ith the famous one ; but her right hand with an apple in it is brought over her head : the head of this was reftor'd by Hercole Ferrati. I meafur'd the famous one, and found it to be five foot two inches high : I obferv'd fome remains of gilding between the locks of her hair; and the ears are bor'd : under it is written KAEOMFNHS AnOAAOAnrOT A0HNAIO2 FnP.EStN " Clcomenes the Athenian, fon of Apollodoru?, made it." I was the more curious in taking this infcription exaftly, be- caufe in the colledion of antient and modern ftatues, by Do- menico de' Rofli, I obferve, in the infcription on the plinth un- der the ftatue, Diomedes fet down as the fculptor, tho' in the account of it, in Italian, underneath, he fays it was done by Cleomenes : his Greek infcription is [ aiomhahs ahoaao- AOPOC A0HNAIO2 Enoiti] where'three of the four words are miftaken. The arms were reftored by Baccio Bandinelli. The original ones, I was told, are in the palace of the Marchefe Cofpi at Bologna. While FLORENCE. While a lover of thefe arts was obferving thisfingular maf- ter-piece, and admiring its beauties, an extempore-thought came into his head, which is licre pr(;rentcd. Ex pptra num ftiSliJ caro cjl, ex carneve petra ? Credo Mi'ibtji-eiim lioc, uullius nrfis, opui. I have not given a literal trandation of this diftich ; becauf- a noble and learned peer, to whom I prefimu-d to fend it while abroad, with an account of Tome of the curiofitics 1 have been dcfcribing, was pleas'd to honour it fo far, as upon the occa- fion of the hint, to fend me the following beautiful lines ; which have not only rais'd and improv'd the thought, but are likewife more expreffive of the beauties of the flatue, than any defcription I have ever read of it ; and give us more lively ideas ci fome of its perfedions, than what we have even from the carts themfelves. When Tufcany's great duke, whofc breaft Of all that's noble flands poffefs'd, Pleas'd to regale a Granger's eye With art's compleateft treafury. After more feen than all below, Without his palaces, can fliow, Laft to th' affembly grants accefs. Made up of gods and goddelles ; In that bright groupe, the Paphian queen Is withdiflinguifli'd luftre feen; Her charms, furprizing with delight. At dirtance llrike the wond'ring fight : But when approach'd, the marble dame Gives not aftonilhment, but flame; So iurt, fo fine, ib foft each part. Her beauties fire thclab'ring heart. The gentle rifings of the ikin Seem pufli'd by mufcles mov'd within : F 2 The 407 4o8 F L O R E N C E» The fwelling breafts, with graces fiU'd^ Seem eafy, to the touch, to yield -, Made loveHeryet by a modelly. Forbidding us in vain to fee ; •Other lines ************** f-^^,- '^V r. Striaiy examine every part, fcription left ^ , -^ , ,■' \ r our, which Each leems above the hope or art : could not be View all at once, behold I the whole Seems animated with a foul. Beauties of ev'ry fort we find. Without a fingleblemifli join'd, Charm'd, we confefs the Qneen of love,. And wonder fhe forgets to move. The tranfports rifing at this view. Think not to human labours due ; ToCyiherea's felf they're paid, Fix'd thus by ftern Medufa's head. By the fame table, with the Venus, ftand the Fannus, and that which they there call the Rotatore, or Arrotino the [Whet- ter,] and the W'reftlers : all, indeed, for the excellency of the workmanlhip, are fit to accompany her. In a converfation,. after my return home, with fome Englifh gentlemen, concern- ing thefe ftatues, when vi'^e had before us admirable copies of the two firll, and a tolerable good one of the laft; fome of the company made epigrams upon them, in Latin and Englifh,. which I believe will not be unacceptable to fome of my readers :, fuch as may have no inclination to things of this nature, may eafily pafs them over. Upon the Venus was this, Eic niidam Paridi fefe tidit obvia Cypris, Victt certantes judicio'jue Deas. Perdidit hoc Trojatti : fi "^Troja antiqua ?nan€ret, Troja iteriimvel te judce corrueret. Ejaage, quidvultus inhias formofaque membra .? Mar more a eji ; fuge^ ne Pygmalion Jieres. Given FLORENCE. Given thus in Englidi by the fame gentleman : Thus Venus flood, and who could blame the boy. For giving ientence, tho' it ruin'd Troy ? Were they t' appeal, and you to judge the prize, Muft not Troy fall, were Troy a^ain to rife ? Be gone, Icfi: you thefe naked beauties view So long, you make Pygmalion's flory true. The reft I will fubjoin to the fhort defcriptions which it will be proper to give of the other ftatues. The Faunus is dancing, with the crotala in his hands, the claftiing whereof, one aijainft the other, was to accompany his dance; and w'wh z fcabillum under one foot, and tied to it. This has the appearance of a pair of bellows, pr bably drawing the air in when he lifted up his foot, and prelUng it out again, thro' fome fort of hole or fliort pipe, when he fct his foot down again *. Tlie liatue is antique, only the head of it, having been broken off and loft, Michael Angclo has made anotlier to it, in fuch manner, as to leave little room to lament the lofs of the old one : fo admirably is the fetting on of the head, its pofture, the look, and the mufcles of the face, adapted to the form of the limbs, the motion and attitude of the body, and the inftru- ments it is furnifhed withal. Of this ftatue there are feveral. prints extant : one of the epigrams upon it was this, Ebria funt ilti vejiigia, faltus agrejlis, Lafchi vultus, os durum, rifus tncptus : Riciu dcnudat denies, dum dijfona cantat jid crotalum, pulfatque Jcabillum ; jiJui Achates SJletio, dignus Faunis !SatyriJque choragus. - The feveral opinions concerning \\\c /cahillim may be fcen in Albcrtuj Robeniiis Je re Vtjl:ani, and in OdUvius Fcrrarius's Analida dr re rijiiaria. They are lo be found in Grxvius's Thcfaurus, vol. IV Rubenius givci the i<oinlu the name ot cymh^la, and dcfcribca them by the terms of fenurotundi pelvn, h.ilf-round bafons : but why half- roiir.d, I Jo not koow ; they have indeed a rcmiRlobular rifmg in the middlf, which leaves a hollow of ihc like figuie on the infide; but they arc inlirely round in their cir- cnoifcrcncc, to which t e femiglobular rifiiig, or hollowing, is concentrick. 6 T'Jius 409 4IO FLORENCE. Thus tranflated; His tott'ring flep?, and clumfv movement view, His thoughtlels maudlin look, and cudden laugh ; Grinning, he fliews his teeth, and jumps, and chants To the harfli mulick of his hands and feet j A choice companion to Silcnus old. Fit to lead up the Faun's and Satyr's dance. Another, this ; Praxitclen miror corpus dura f exile fpcclo, Dum caput, haud miror te minus, 6 MicJidcI. ^tod, modo divij'um, dextram exercebat utramque, Conjunclum, Michael, incipit ejj'e timm. 9>ui fpedlat corpus, damnabit tempus iniquuin ^i caput, ignofcet temporis invidice. Tranflated thus; The trunk to fam'd Praxiteles we owe, The head to the great Michael Angelo : Ench brought his part to perfeifl the defign ; When join'd, O Angelo ! the work is Thine ! Viewing the trunk, we curie relentlefs Time ; But when we view the head, forgive the crime. The Rotaiore is a famous ftatue ; but the virtuofi in Flo- rence are divided about it, as to what it was intended to repre- fent : fome pretend that it is a reprefentation of the Augur cutting the Whetftone, mentioned by Livy, 1. i. f. xxxvi. where the famous Augur, Accius Navius, oppofed Tarquinius's defign of increalinghis army, becaufe he had not confulted him. Vide Dionyf. Kalicarnaff. 1. iii. f. Ixxi. who makes the king himlelf FLORENCE. 41X himfclf to cut the vvhetflonc. Livy indeed mentions a ftatiie of Accius, but (ays it was capite velato [with the head veiled], whereas this has the head hare. Others again pretend it was the flavc that overheard and revealed the confpiracy of Catiline; which is againil all hirtori:ins, who agree that this plot was difcovered by a woman. It feems therefore much more probable, that it was the Have who revealed the plot of Brutu.s's fons to bring Tarquin back again : a ilory mentioned both by Dionyf. Halicarnali'. 1. v. f. vii. and Livy, 1. ii. f, v. Both of them agree that the name of the perfon who over- heard, and difcovered this confpiracy, was Vindicius ; Diony- fius Halicarnaffjcus fays he was cmyj,o(^ the butler; that he fuf- peded tiiere was fome mifchief in hand, becaufe all the fer- vants were fent cut of the houfc ; that he therefore rtay'd at the door, and thro' a chink of it faw them fubf.ribing fome letters. The fculptor feems to have taken his hint from thcic particulars, and rcprcfents the flavc as whetting liis knife (the proper bulinefs of a butler, very likely, in thofe days, as well as now), and liftening very attentively to what they were about. The epigram upon it was, DeUrant Bruti reducemque tyrannida pcjcunt : Vindice tnancipio libera Romajlctit. In Englifl), a little more largely, thus; See how Vindicius liftens to reveal The plot the Bruti labour'd to conceal : They, traitors to their country ! while this flavc Refcues the liberty their father gave. The Wrefllers, of which there are feveral copies in Eng- land, Ihew a great deal of fpirit ; the expreffion of the muf- cles (wherein the utmofl: force feems exerted),, and the con- traft of the limbs, are very fine : and the countenances (if one can quarrel with fuch a fault) too beautiful for people at that fport. This diftich was made upon them. .•4C2 FLORENCE. Did living wreftlers with fuch vigour flrive, Exhaufted foon, they'd teem far lefs alive. Thus turned into Latin by another gentleman j Taiibus exhaiijli pugnis in faxa rigercnt Vivi; dimi vivutit marmorei pugilcs. Thefe four capital ftatues were cad: in copper, exceeding well, by Signer Soldani, for the duke of Marlborough, and are now at Blenheim. When my Lord Parker was at Florence, and greatly delighted with thefe ftatues, Signer Fietro Cipriani, an excellent artift, and formerly a fcholar of Soldani, and his affiftant in cafting thofe ftatues for the duke of Marlbo- rough, undertook to make for him copies in copper of the Venus and Faunus ; which he engaged fliould at leaft equal Soldani's, and be the moft exadl that ever were made. Ke had moulds of the fcveral parts of them, and only defired that leave might be obtained from the great duke for him to have re- courfe to the originals, for the more exadt putting the parts together (for want of which, cafts often differ more from the originals, than one would eafily imagine j as has happened par- ticularly in moft of the cafts of this Venus). My lord agreed with Cipriani, obtained the great duke's leave, as he defired; and Cipriani has done them, and lent them to England : nor has he failed in his engagement. My lord likewife had cafts made in copper of the bufts of Plautilla and Geta, which are in the great gallery there, and they are performed admirably well ; and, of the Plautilla, my lord has not only the copper caft, but the very mould, which was made on purpofe for him, with the leave of his roval highnefs ; who infifted that the mould ftiould not be left at Florence, for the caft to become common there, but ftiould either be broken to pieces, or carried away by my lord : his lordftiip was not long in determining upon the latter, and accordingly brought it into England. At the fame time that Soldani was making the cafts for the duke of Marlborough, Signer Baratti, a fculptor in good «fteem there, made two ft:atues for his grace. An Englilh man of FLORENCE. of quality, and of a very good tafte, was intruded by his Grace, toJ)eipc;ik the twoflatues, and to appoint what they Ihould be, and in what manner and attitude : he ordcr'd one of them to be a Mars, witli the duke of Mulborcuigh's face ; and a piaure of the duke was got from England to do it by ; the other was a Glory with a garland in her hand, 6cc. On the former was made this diltich, by an EngliHi gentleman : ISfon alio vultufremuit Mars accr in armis ; Noil alio, Cypriam perculit ille Dcam. Tranflated thus by another Englifli gentleman ; With fuch an air and mien Mars took the field ; To fuch an air and mien did Venus yield. On the other was this epigram : Gloria, Marllmrio jam ferta recent ia nt^as, Non quce falfns honor, vcl mendax farna, tyrannis Obtiilerat dudum, fed qualia condecorajJ}nt Sive Epaminondcefrontem, feu 'Timolcontis. Tranflated thus; For Marlborough let Glory. wreaths prepare. Not fuch as, wioughtby Flatt'ry, tyrants wearj But ibch as, Greece being judge, were fit to crown Epaniinondas, or Timoleon, The fleeping Cupid [in the Trihuna") the young Hercules, the heads of Nero, and M. Aurelius when children, and that of Tiberius in a Turcoife (b)ne, are all \'ery curious ; and io are a valf many more fnialler pieces of antiquity, which are moft agreeably diipos'd on flielves round this rich cabinet. Bclides all this, there is a hidden trcafure, which fignor Bianchi was fo obliging as to lay open to us, of the greatrft variety ot" curious veflels of rock-cryftal, wrought in leveral (hapes, of bafons, boats, caikets, beakers, ficc. adorn'd, fome with very fine fi- gures, others with foliage, &,c. many fine vellels of lapis la- VoL. 11. G zuli. 41? ■4I.4- FLORENCE. zuTt, onyx, ngate, anci many other curious flones. Some of thole in rock-cryftal, wrought in fuch' manner as to appear Irk 15 a very fine baffo-relievo without, and fcarce inferior to the heft antique, are tlie work of Valerius dc Bellip, more commonly called the Vicentine, from Viceir,^a, the place of his birth : he flouri(hed in the time of Clement VII. end upon one of thefc veffels he has put his name, with the time when he wrought it. Valer. de Belli s, temp. Clem. VII. 1532. We likewife faw there a ring, with a fine ftone, in which appears the figure of a Cupid, which they affirm to be natural ; the Cupid is white, the reft of the ftone rcddilh. In a moft rich cabinet within the fame room are kept the fine colledion of medals, intaglio's, and cameo's. I fhallfay nothing here of the medals, to avoid tedioufnefs and the rather, becaufe curiofitiesof that nature are the remains of great numbers, fiamped at the fame time, and therefore 0- thers of the fame imprelTions may be feen elfewhere ; and con- jequently an account of them is no novelty. The chief that I obferv'd among the numerous intaglio's, were Caius and Lucius Casfar, [above mention'd] with Romulus and Remus. Domitilla, fuppos'd to have been fetin the ring of Vefpafian: this head, fignor Bianchi told us, is not extant in medals. Pefcennius Niger ; grofier than the medal. Pyrrhus : like the ftatue at the Palazzo Maffimis at Rome. Mithridates : like the ballo-relievo Medaglione in the Capi- tol ; only this has no helmet : which that (as I remember) has. It is alfo very like the gold and filver medals of him. A Pallas, in an onyx, two inches and a half long ; a whole figure. A fine Apollo, the head only : on the other fide of the fame ftone is a whole figure of Mars. A Cameo, very fine. A Hercules : the fame as the Farnefe. A moft beautiful Bacchans : the drapery flung about admi- rably. An antique fcenej with mafques. The She-Wolf with the Infants, &c. The Circus Maximus ; and race of the Sluadrigcc. Several FLORENCE. 415 Several Talifmans ; and the other magical flones call'd A- braxas ; with various inlcriptions ; fome in Greek letters, but the words Chaldec; at Icail: i'o lignor Biuichi told us: I pretend not to underftand that language; but of Greek fignification I am fure they were not. The magical itones call'd Abraxas are engrav'd ftones, us'd by the /Egyptians and Perfians to reprefent the chief deity who made the heavens, which they reckon three hundred fixty five in number, anfwerable to the days in the year ; and in the feve- ral Greek numeral letters of that name added together, that number is found, as will be feen by what immediately follows, P 100 A I S 200 The fame was alfo fignified by Mithras, writing it with an [E] before the [I], MKiepAS, as here under. M E I P 40 5 10 9 ICO A I 2 200 365 Talifmans are often, if not for the moft part, in metal : both thcfc were fuppoled 10 have great efficacy in charming away difcafes, putting to flight evil fpirits, prolonging life, and do- G 2 ing 4i6 FLORENCE. ing abundance of other feats. The Gnofticks, particularly thofe of thefchool of Bafilides, being much addidcd to magick, did believe there was a great virtue in this fort of things. Among the Cameos's, I obferv'd one with afatyr and goat, butting, as in the Sarcophagusat Bolfena above mentioned. Ahiftory ; with a building, Corinthian pillars, and Doric frieze,* A young Hercules, and the lion. A finelole : the fame is amongft the intaglio's. Milo and the Bull. - A Bacchans : the head and breafl; are beautiful, Tiberius and Livia, in profile, very fine. -f Vefpafian, in alto-relievo, excellent ; the face almoft full ; being turned from you but very little. Thefe are antique. Amongil the modern ones, there is a moft excellent mafque of a faun. The Centaurs and Lapithae, • The Slaughter of the Innocents ; on an Heliotrope. In fignor Bianchi's room, [another apartment within the gallery] among other curious things, is a very fine fleeping Hermaphrodite, much the fame with that in the Villa Borg- hefe : which of them is the finer, is a difpute hard to be de- cided. In the room which they call the Arfenal, is a numerous col- ledtion of drawings, and feveral fine ones ; but I think it comes not up in excellence to the collection of other curiofities, with which this gallery, and the rooms belonging to it, are fo glo- rioufly furniflied. There are fome few of Raphael. The principal groupe is that which is commonly called Ra- • Adef.gn phael's Pert*, reprefeminga ^ defign in fmall for the cartoon at Hampton-Court, of S. plague ; T» 1 1 • whether it "aul preaching. waseyer exe- That of Chrift delivering the keys. ingVno.^T" Part of that for the v/onderful draught of fidies. know not: the In the paflage from the gallery to the old palace, and in feve- onfofihT''' ^^^ other places about this gallery, are abundance of other anti- print are fold quities, and curiofities of various forts, which I avoid troubling '"uit^s'"'''' the reader with. 1 (hall take leave of this famous gallery with inferting four in- fcriptions I took in the lobby at the entrance : Two 4»7 FLORENCE. Two of them are jocofc, on two i-aj'a cineraria, or urns. PFIILAETIVS PRIVIGNVS ET DVSERIS NOVKP.CA IN VITA VIX CREDIBILE VNANIMES .MORTVI HAC EADEM VRNA CONCORDES REQVIESCVNT. " PhiUrtuis the fon-ln-law, and Dufcris the ftep mother, " who while living (you'll Icarce believe it !) were unanimous, " now they are dead, refl lovingly together in this urn." The other is, D . M. PHILONICI PRIVIGNI ET DYSCHERIAE NOVERCAE CINERES HEIC CONDITI PRISTINI ODII MEMORES VNA RENVVNT COMMISCERI. " The aflies of Philonicus the Ibn-in-law, and of Dyfchc- «' riathe rtep-mother, retaining flill their old hatred, reiufe to " be mixed together." The antiquity of thefe two is by fome called in quellion, but the two following ones are of undoubted, as well as of very great antiquity. The firft is in honour of Appius Caucus, who (as the inlcription fets forth) took feveral towns of the Sam- nites, routed the Sabine and Tr.fcan forces, prevented the ma- king a peace with king Pyrrhus, pav'd the Appian-way *, fup- ' St'^l in be plied the city with water, and built a temple to Bcllona. '"''■ APPIVS . CLAVDIVS C . F . CAECVS • CENSOR . COS . BIS . DICT . INTERREX . flT PR . IT . AED . CVR . IT . Q.- TR . MIL . Fl . COM PLVRA . OPPIDA . DE . SAMNITIBVS . CEPIT SABINORVM . ET . TYSCORVM . EXERCI I'^rt of the P TVM . FVDJT . PACEM . FIERI . CVM . FYRRHO i.uornol,.: REGE . PROHIBVIT . IN CENSVRA . VIAM ■'"'' '^^I' ""^ APPIAM . STRAVIT . ET . AQ.VAM . IN BELLONAK VRBEM . ADDVXIT . AEDEM . BELLONA ii broker. o/T. EECIT . The 4i8 • CunBando Ujiitutt rem. Ennius. FLORENCE. The other Is in honour of the famous didlator Fabius Maxi- mus, who bafHed Hannibal with obferving * his motions and forbearing to come to adlion, fubdued and triumph'd over the Ligurians [now Genoefe] took Tarentum, and was efteemed the mofl cautious commander of his time, and the moft expert in military affairs, &c. The N in CENSOR h broke ofF, as is part of the R ifl AUGUR., • One fide of the O in MA- GISTRO is worn out. t Pro Cuju!.. :Not REI MIL. &c. Part of the M in SENA- TVMis gone. Q,. F . MAXIMUS DICTATOR . BIS . COS . V . CE SOR . INTERREX . II . AED . CVR Q, II . TR . MIL . II . PONTIFEX . AVGVI PRIMO . CONSVLATV . LIGVRES . SVBE GIT . EX . lis . TRIVMPHAVIT . TERTIO . ET Q.VARTO . HANNIBALEM . COMPLVRI BVS . VICTORIs . FEROCEM „ SVBSEQ\^EN" DO . COERCVIT . DICTATOR MAGISTRC* EQVITVM . MINVCIO . QVOIVS \ . POPV LVS IMPERIVM CVM DICTATORIS IMPERIO . AEQVAVERAT . ET . EXERCITVI PROFLIGATO . SVBVENIT . ET . EO . NOMI . NE . AB . EXERCITV . MINVCIANO . PA TER,. APPELLATVS . EST . CONSVL . QVIN TVM . TARENrVM . CEPIT . TRIVMPHA VIT . DVX . AETATIS . S-VAE . CAVTISSI A4VS . ET . RE t . MILITARIS . PERITISSIMVS- HABITVS . EST . PRINCEPS . IN . SENATVM DVOBVS . LVSTRIS . LECTVS . EST, Oppofite to this infcription is a -large Ba:ffo- relievo, intended (as they fay) to rep re fen t three of the elements, viz. air, earth, and water. I took fuch a fketch of it as the opportunity 1 had would admit, which is given at p. 397. In ths great hall of the old palace, which is a noble, but up negledcd room ||, and in fome fmall galleries adjacent, are fe- ll r went and down and found i body there, but all open. The fine [modern] ftatues in the piazza before the old palace^ have been.defcrib'd by others 3 for which reafon I omit them The veral very good rtatues, and frefco-paintings, too maay toenu- merate. Some of the ftatues are by John de Bologna. FLORENCE. 4:9 TheRapeof t!'.c Stbinewcmin, by Jolin de Buhp^ni, lafpcr tlvan the life, is (I think) infciior tn few of the antiduc ; the I'jldier who carries iicr oiThas another hgiirc under h'\m, I ctwceij Ills legs : ihey are all three cut out of one block u[ whiie marble. The other noble ftatucs difpers'd in the publick pans of the city, fomc modern, fome antique, have likewife been defcrib'd by others : they do exceedingly beautify and enliven the city. From the great gallery (lately mcntlon'd) to the Palazzo Pitti, now the refidence of the great duke, is a corridorc, or gallery of communication, half a mile long, and goes acrols the river. This fine pahce was built by a nobleman of Florence, whofe Palazzo name it bears ; but he having over-built himlelf, it was purchas'd ^'"'• by one of the great dukes, and has fince continued to be their refidence. It is built about three lides of a court ; the fourth is open to the garden call'd Boboli. A portico of the Doric order goes all along the three fides below, two others go over them, one of the Ionic, the other of the Corinthian order. Along one of thefe there goes an iron balcony, in which they fliew'd us a part which had not been well joined ; and this they told us feparatcs confiderably in cold weather, and reunites [or comes clofe again] in hot. The fwelling of metals in hot wea- ther, and flirinking in cold, has been obferved by the curious, to be in a fmall proportion; poflibly it may be the great lenj^th of this balcony that may make the alteration more vifible here. So that what is almoll infenfible in a foot of metal, may be con- fiderable in the length of a court. In the court is a pretty Grotta, with Cupids as fwimming, and a flatue of Mofes in porphyry. In the fame court are the fta- tues of Hercules and Anta?us, the fame attitude with thofe figures in the rcverfe of a medal of Antoninus Pius. This is one among nine which the great duke has of the twelve labours of Htrcules ; the reverfes of fo many medals of Antoninus Pius. Thofe of the Stymphalides, the Amazons, and Geryon, are wanting. Alexander, as taken out of the river Cydnus ; excellently good. 420 FLORENCE. A Hercules j the fame with the Farnefe. Under this ftatuc of Hercules is a baflb-relievo of a mule, which feems to have undergone fome fort of Herculean labour, and whofe memory is thus perpetuated, for the fervices he had done at the building of this palace : thefe, and likewife what was more perfonal to his mafter, feem intended to be recorded in this infcription. LeSlicam, lapides, & marmora, ligna, columnas, Vexit, conduxit, traxit, & ijla tulit. Sedan, flones, marble, columns, timber too. He bore, he led, he carry'd, and he drew. An extraordinary diftich this, to be cut, in fo fumptuous a manner, in the portico of fuch a noble palace ! There lies neglefted on one fide this court a loadflone, about five foot long, four broad, and three deep: they told us they were forc'd to burn it, to diminifli its attradlion, which was fo violent, that it drew the iron bars out of the windows, bal- conies, &c. True Italian ! . The great duke has a loadftone of three tenths of a grain, which draws above a hundred twenty one grains, which is four ■ hundred times more than its own weight : it was fet by Quare the famous watchmaker of London, and fent by him to his royal highnefs in the year 1703. The ftone, as I was told by lignor Beneditto Brefciani, the great duke's library-keeper, is perforated, and has an iron v/ire pafling thro' it, which augments its attradion. It is allow'd (I thing) among the Virtuofi, that the fmaller a loadflone is, its proportional attradion is the greater ; the larger being only as it were an aflemblage of fmall ones, whofe poles often croffing one another, do make the attradion lefs in pro- portion to the bulk of the whole mafs. The figure of this fmall loadltone is given in the plate oppo- fite to page 313, as fignor Galilei, who drew it from the ori- ginal, gave it to me, and which, as he told me, the great duke us'd always to keep in his own cudody. The weight is aUb added ia the draught. 3 The FLORENCE. 421 The apartments in this palace arc very handfomc, and finely fiiiiOrd : the cielings offomc of them are admirably paintc<i by Pictro da Cortona, and pleab'd mt: the mofl of any of his works that I have fcen. It was incumhcnton Pietro to ilicvv his utmort fl;ill at Florence ; where at that time were Tome ready enough to have taken notice ot any derc(fl: in his peifoimance ; as may I)e fiippos'd, if a ftory they tell there be true. When the great duke knt to Rome for Pietro to do this work, one of the Flo- rentine painters (I think it was Giovanni di S. Giovanni) being piqued at it, fet to work to Hiew him at his entrance into the town how little need there was to fend for a foreign painter to Florence, and painted a piece of frefco, which ftill lemains, and is indeed very fine, upon the outfide of a houfe that jufl fronts you as you come in at the Roman gate : and it was not with- out its effciSt. Pietro did (as was expeded) immediately caft liis eye upon it as he enter'd the gate ; and feeing a performance, which (hew'd itfelf to be new, aik'd who did it : they told him, it was an ordinary painter they had among them, naming him. Ay, fays he, if fuch are your ordinary painters, there's no hufmefs for me here ; and (as the (lory goes) turn'd back again immediately: nor was it without repeated and prcfling inllances that he was induc'd to return to Florence. At laft he was prevail'd upon, and painted the cielings I have mentioned : and Giovanni di S. Giov:inni was employ 'd in the fummcr-apart- ments below, in which he fuccceded admirably well. Santi di Tito, I think, did fome part. Thele fummer-apartments are vaulted with ftone, high and fpaciou=, cielings and walls all painted ; and are much the fineil of the kind I have any where fcen. In one of thefe apartments is kept the pidure of my lord Somers, painted by fir Godfrey Kneller. Sir Godfrey told me once, that upon the arrival f>f this pidurc at Florence, the great duke faid, " The queen of England promis'd to fend me *' the pidure of the prcfident of hci council, but (lie Um, lent " me the prefident of her council himjclf." The Florentine mailers don't feem much to relifh it, but I think there's none there now can make fo good a one. The paintings in this palace are very numerous, and many of them exquifitely fne. i forbear entering into the particulars, this having been done by -thers; and particularly of late bv ?vlr. Kichardlcn. Vol. II. H ' The FLORENCE. The library of this palace is a Ipacious handfome apartment, and furniflied with many valuable books and manufcripts : but the principal one for manufcripts is that of S.Lorenzo, a beau- tiful ftrudure, defign'd by Mich. Angclo. Chapel of S. The fine chapel of S. Lorenzo has been defcrib'd by feveral ; Lorenzo. ^^ ^j^^j. j ^^|} ^^^ jj^^ j^^g ^^ jj . j^ jg ^^ odagon : the height of. the chapel is about twice the diameter; the diameter is forty- eight palms, and the height ninety-eight. There is another thing in it uncommon ; tho' it is a regular o6tagon in the upper part ; in the lower, four of the fides are brought lo much for- ward, as almoft to form a fquare; a fmall part only of the an- gles being cut oft. That I may be the better underflood, I have added a little Icheme, wherein the continued lines repre- fent the fides of the odiagon above, and the prick'd lines the four fides brought forwarder below. One of the great princes * was the principal architecfl of it. Some of the marbles and other rich ftones in the inciuftations ther'to'cof- I thought did not fet cfFone another (as to their colours) to the mo III. the beft advantige : and a much more knowing ptrfon in thofc mat- ters (a Florer.tine) dcclar'd himfclf of the fame opinion ; but it will doubtlefs, when finifli d, be the moft fumpruous fabiick of its bignefs in the world. They fliew'd us the very rich taber- nacle * I think It was Feidi- nand II. fa- late great duke. FLORENCE, naclc which is to be for the aliar, in one of the apartments be- longing to the great gallery. This chapel ftands juft beyond the eafl: end of the church, whu Ii bears the fanic name ; and when finiflied, there is to be a communication between them opened at the place where the great altar of that church at prefent Aands. In another chapel belonging to this church are placed in cof- fins lying on the floor, the bodies of the great dukes, and others of the family, which arc to be removed hence, and dcpo- fited in the new rich chapel, as foon as it is finidi'd. On the coffin of the late cardinal dc' Medici (who married the prin- cefs Eleonora of Gualbdla, a fine young lady^\ I obfervcd thi' inlirription. FRANC. My\RIA PRINCEPS AB ETRVRIA PRIMO S. R. E. CARDINALIS MOX VXORE DVCTA OBIIT. Ill FEB. MDCCX. " Franc. Maria, a prince of Tufcany, firft a cardinal of the " Holy Roman church; then married, and (trait died, iii " Feb. MDCCX." His eminence would willingly haveexcus'd himfclf at the age he was of from marrying at all ; but his elder nephew, prince Ferdinand, being dead without ilTue, and his other nephew Don Gaflone [now great duke] not being likely to have any, he was over-perfuaded to it. Others of the Medici family are depofited here, whofe monu- ments are adorned with admirable fculpture of Mich. Angelo, particularly with four figures which rcprefent the Day, the Night, the Day-break, and the'Twilight. One of thefe i$ much in the attitude of the Leda of hisw^hich is in print. The late great duke [Cofmo III.] ordered the nudities of thefe to be covcr'd, which was doing while we were there This chapel was built by the dirciftion of Mich. Angelo, and is therefore called by fome Capella di Mich. Angelo, by other.--. Capclla de' Prencipi, becaufe fo many princes have been buried there. In the piazza before this church flands a bafe or pedellal of white marble, with an admirable hallo- relievo by Baccio \hn- H ?. dinelli. 423 424 F* L O R E N C E. dinelli, reprefenting fome foldiers bringing feveral prifoners be- fore Giovanni de' Medici, father of Cofmo I. One of the fol- diers is carrying a woman in his arms, whofe ftruggling to get from him is finely exprefs'd. The ftatue, which fbou'd have been fet on this pedeftal, remains unfinifh'd in the great hall of the old palace. i. The palace of the Marchefe Riccardi, who is a very affable courteous gentleman, is very magnificent in ftrudlure, and as rich in furniture. The magazines of plate they fliew'd us in five or fix prefles reaching from bottom to top of a high room, fur^ pafled all I ever fav/ belonging to a private perfon. There is a gallery, finely painted in frefco by Luca Giordano. In the court are a great many infcriptions : one i«, SOLI INBICTO MITRE M. VLP. MAXIMVS PRAEPOSITVS TA- BELLARIORVM ARAM CVM SVIS ORNAMENTIS ET BELA DO- MINI INSIGNIA HABENTES N. IIII VT VOVERAT D. D. Another, where [B] is likewife us'd for [V.] D. M. L. BOLVMNIVS SEBERVS SE BIBO COMPARABIT QUI BIXITANNISXLVIII. &c. Another, which doubtlefs belonged to fome bafib-relievo of Pfiapus, &c. wherein a girl might poffibly be reprefented as pulling the boughs of a tree to get fome fruit ; and Priapus its coming along towards her, with fruits in the lappet of his fbirt ; as he is feen in a bafib-relievo in the Palazzo Mattel. Vide p.. 301. QUIDNAM QVID RAPIS O PVELLA FVRAX NE RAMOS TRAHERES TIBI HAEC FEREBAM SED POSTHAC CAVEAS FERAS Q_VID ORTO OBDVXI LICET ARMA SVM PRIAPVS. What, pilf'iing girl, what is't you're pulling there ? To fave the boughs, I've brought you fomewhat here. ^ Don't FLORENCE, 425 Don't play thefe tricks again, and think t' cfcapc us. My weapon's hid :— but know I am Priapus. There is another infcription near it, which I had not time to tranfcribe ; it is in a fqiiare rharadler ; hke that of an old Virgil there is in the library of S. Lorenzo. There is a modern infcription in marble, made by the famous Salvini, dodtor of laws, declaring what emperors, kings, popes, and other princes have been entertained in that place. Wc had feveral times the pleafurc of this learned dodtor's company, which is as entertaining as it is improving. If he has that quar- lity of a fcholar to be regardlefs of drcls, he is perfcdly free from others which are frequent, that is, morofcnefs, pride, and refervedncfs : he is facetious, affable, and communicative. Ba- fides his great knowledge of the civil law, and other uleful parts of learning, he is particularly eminent for his profound fkili in the claffical Greek; and among the modern languages, has made himfelf fo much a m.iiter of EngliHi, as to read any thing extempore out of that into Italian, 6cc. It was he ihat tranila- ted Mr. Addifon's Cato into Italian ; which he did fo well, that Mr. Addifon himfelf declared it was the bell: tranflation he ever faw. He likewife Hiew'd us fome parts of Milton's Para- difc Loft, which he had occafionally turn'd into Italian ; and they read admirably well in that harmonious language. There are two fine palaces of the noble family of the Strozzi, !'•>'• S::o72.i. one of whom contended againft the Medici for the liberty ct his country ; wherein tho' he mifcarried, Miignis tamen excidit attfiSy Ovid. Yet in a glorious cntcrprize he dy'd. Addison. It was Philip Strozzi, of an antient and rich family in Flo- rence, who, with others, endeavouring after the death of Clement V\\. to deliver themfelvcs from the exorbitant power of Alexan- der de Mcdicis, by expelling him from Flon-nce ;and failing in that attempt, procured him to be all'ilTinated : but the cutting off Alexander prov'd more fatal to the liberty of the Florentines, than the difappointment and the difcovcry of the whole con- fpiracv would have been. The death cf Alexander n-.adc room ^ ^ for 426 FLORENCE. for Cofmo, a perfon much better qualified than he was, to fettle a new fovereignty, which he did, and became t e firft Great Puke of Florence. He beat the malecontents; Strozzi was made a prifoner, and believing that his enemy would poifon him, or put him to an ignominious death, refolved to kill him- felf. Before he executed that violent refolution, he made hi:s will ; wherein he orders and intreats his children to dig up his bones out of the place \\ here they fhall lie in Florence, and to get them tranfported to Venice ; that, fince he cannot be fo happy as to be in a free city when he died, he may enjoy that blefling after his death, and his arties may reft in peace, out of the con- queror's dominions. He then engrav'd upon the mantle-piece of his chimney, with the point of the fame dagger wherewith he afterwards kill'd himfelf, this verfe of Virgil : Exoriare aliquls nojiris ex ojjihus iiltor. May fome avenger from my aflies rife ! All which was faithfully executed by his children, who remo- ved his bones according to his will ; and then, to profecute their revenge, went into France, and engaged in the fervice of the French king, againft the emperor Charles the Vth, who had founded the dominion of the Medici at Florence. Balzac, who gives this part of the account, [Entrefien T^^. C. 6.] further adds, that the fame Philip Strozzi, in the begin- ning of his will, exprefles a great confidence in God's mercy, hoping he will forgive him for killing himfelf, fince he did it like a man of honour, to maintain his liberty, [en homme d'hon- neur, z\Q, Balzac's words j] being of opinion, that when a freeman has loft that, that lie may lawfully die. It was at the battle of Marone, near Florence, that Philip Strozzi was made prifoner. We Aw in the houfe of the cava- lier Strozzi in Florence, the reprcfentation of that engagement, and likewife of feveral others, between the Medici and 5trozzi, painted on the friezes of the apartments. One of the paUces of the Strozzi has this infcription on the frieze. MDCVII I FLORENCE. 427 MDCVII FERD. MED. M. ETRVRIAE DVCIS III AVSPICIIS RODERTVS STROZZA CA^IILLI F. K. A compliment one would hardly have expc<fted, confidcring the tranfuiStion which I have juft been fpcikmg of. At the palace of the marquis Ridolfi we law in the garden a Pal. Rido'fi. colofTal ftatuc of Hercules, drinking out of an titer: his club reding on his thigh. The height of the ftatuc the marquis told us was eighteen bracciy about fix and thirty kot. I nicafur'd the foot, and found it to be five foot Engliili. There is a grotta, imitating ruins on the outfirle; the infide is finely adorn'd, and one apaitmtn: painted by Coluiina. In the palace we fiw a battle ot the Borgognone, of nine foot by fix, which the marquis was pleas'd to value at ten thoufand crowns. He told us, that whoever had not feen thefe, had not feen Italy. At the Palazzo Gierini we faw a line colledion of pidurcs, which I won't trouble the reader with particularizing. At the palace of the fenator Buonarota, we faw tivo books Pal. Buona- filled with fketches of architedture, defigncd by MJch. Angclo, '■°'*- who was his anccftor ; and the ritratto of Mich. Angelo him- felf, by Bronzino Vecchio. Here we were (hewn fome of the fineft of thofe fort of prints which imitate drawings, that ever I faw ; they were made after defigns of Raphael, Titian, Parmegiano, Mecharino, and others ; fome by Mecharino himfclf, excellent ; others by Ra- phael daRegio, Barthol. Coriolanoda Bologna, and Parmegiano. At the C afa Gadda are many pieces of antiquity, infcrip.tions, ftatues, and bufls, but not difpofed in proper order, the houfe not being inhabited. Among the reft is an old copper Laocoon, and feveral pieces of old Tufcan copper llatues. In one of the rooms we faw feveral pieces of marble ; upon which, when joined together, there had been plans drawn of the floor of f nne p.ilace or other building : upon feveral of thcin, numbers were cut, which probably exprelTcJ in feet the dimenfions of the refpedivc rooms in the plan. Here we faw Odavius Strada's (cries of the emperors, done in the manner of thofe mentioned in the Vatican Library ; buf thcle arc in purple ink. "''' 42S FLORENCE. At the palace of the cavalier Gaburri is a fine colleftlon of drawings, feme antique ftatues, and feme good piftures : he has the original drawings of the famous Madonna del Sacco, by Andrea del Sarta : and of part of the cupola of the dome, hy Fed. Zuccaro ; alfo a drawing of the Marcus Aurclius on horfe- back, from the ftatue in the Capitol, by Giulio Romano. The fummer-apartoients below are painted in irefco, architedlure, and landfkape, very pleafant. The gentlemen of Florence are very fociable in a fober way. They have a nightly affembly in a houfe they have taken for that purpofe, where the feveral apartments are alcertain'd for play or converfation. There are perfons attending to furnilh iced li- quors, coffee, &c. From hence they go, fome to the ladies Academies aflemblies, and card tables; fome to the academies of the Virtuofi, of which there are two: one intitled Delia Crufca, and the other known by tlie general title of I'Academia Fiorentina. We were prefent one night at the latter: the exercife began with a recital of epigrams, and other little poems, fome in Italian, fome in Latin, and they were as eager who (hould repeat firfl, as the boys are at the Weftminfter eledlion with their extempore verfes. Then fucceeds a performance of another kind. A quellion is put. One whom they call the fibyl makes anfwer to it in one word, and that a difpropofito (as they call it); fomevvhat that feems c]uite foreign to the purpofe : then, the expofitors of the fibyl are to reconcile this dij'propojito-'xw- fwer, to the queftion given ; as for example, a queftion was put, Whether 'tis more wholefome to fleep much or little ? ■ The fibyl anfwer'd. Sugar. The expofitor added, As fugar is differently proportion'd to fuit with different taftes, fo is llecp, to fuit with different conflitutions : fome requiring more, fome lefs. O^Why Myopa [the fliort-llghted] hold the objeft near, Prefiyta [the old] hold it at a diltance .? Sibyl ; Hair. The expofitor compar'd a lock of hair to the allemblage of capilla- inents or fibres in the optick nerve ; whofe expanfion within the bottom of the eye makes the tunica retina : then he went on to explain how the image of an objedl is formed on the re- tina, in the convex eye, and the flat eve, in the ufual way. I will indance only in one more. Q Why women's tears lie fo near the eyes.'' Sibyl; A bean. Expofitor. There are tear.s or F L O R E N C E. 429 of forrow, and tears of joy. In a bcnn is found the rcfcmhlance of that part where a woman finds men: joy, Sec. I advance no further in their arguinenis, than to Hicw how they endea- vour to bring matters together, and to reconcile the Difpropo- fito-anfwer, to the qucftion. The Acadcmia dclla Criifca have for their emblem or device, a Mill : they take the title of Crufca, or Bran, as profefilng thcmklves to feparatc and clear the fine flower from it, i. e. the iifcful and valuable from that which is not fo ; as there are fotnc other academics in Italy which take their title from fome dcfed: or imperfedion, which it is their endeavour to deliver thcmklves from, and ftudy its oppofite ; as Otiofi, Ofcuri, Oftinati, Sec. The people of Florence arc very highly tax'd ; there is an impolitibn laid upon every thing they cither wear or eat : and to keen the people in awe, and reftrain them from entering into any feditious difcourfes, there were, when we were there, fpies in all companies ; by which his royal highnefs was acquainted with every thing that pafltd; and the cannon in the caftle, which were planted towards the city, were always ready charg'd in cafe of any popular infurretflion. His royal highnefs [Cofmo III.] was about eighty years old when we were there : his ftate of health was then fuch as would not allow his going abroad ; but whilfl; he could do that, he vifited five or fix churches everyday. I was toldhehadamachine in his own apartment, whereon were fix'd little images in filver, of every faint in the kalendar. The machine was made to turn fo as ftdl to prefent in front the faint of the day j before which he continually perform'd his offices. His hours of eating and going to bed were very early, as was likcwil'c his hour of rifing. He never came near any fire ; and at his coming out of his bed- chamber, had an adjacent room warm'd only by the breath of fuch attendants as were to be always ready there againfl; his rifing. His zeal was great for gaining profelytcs to the R'unifh church ; and he allow'd confiderable fiiipends to fome of our nati- on, that had been brought over by that expedient. The Poggio Imperiaie, a little mile out of town, has in it rnprio Im. many excellent original pictures. There are alio copies of fir fc-''^- Peter Lely's Englifli beauties at Windfor, which his highnefs procur'd to be copied when he was in England. Vol. II. I At 430 FLORENCE. PRATOLINO. Pratollno. At Pratolino, another villa of the great duke's, about fix miles from Florence, on the road to Bologna, are mofl: plea- fant grotta's : the v;ifl variety of water-works in them, and of the figures moved by the water, with their feveral geftures, would be too tedious to enumerate ; befides, that fome of them have, I think, been taken notice of by others. But' I mufi: not omit a vaft ftatue there is fronting the palace at fome diilance, which is intended to fignify the Appennine- mountain ; and a very mountain the ftatue itfelf is. The fi- gure fits in an inclining pofture, as looking into a bafon or pond juft below it : from it's vafi: long beard, it's arms and other parts hang what look like icicles, the only reprefentation ftone could give of water falling from it : it put me in mind of the Jupiter Pluvius on the Antonine pillar at Rome; — perhaps the fculptor might take his hint from that. This reprefenta- tion of water falling from him feems to fignify the fprings and cafcades, frequent in the tradt of mountains this figure is in- tended to reprefent. It is built of feveral great ftones, which ■ near the eye look very coarfe, but at a diftance have a noble efFe6l. The iris of each eye looks like a great glafs bottle. I meafured one of the feet, and found it to be nine Englifli foot long, and. all the other parts of the figure feem to be in a juft proportion to the feet. Within it's body is a pretty grotta, adorn'd with various ftones, mother of pearl, &c. and fome of their ufual fcherzi d'acqua. It is the work of John de Bo- logna. This performance might have ferv'd him as a model to ■» Dinocratef. cut the Appennine itfelf by, into a flatue ; as a fculptor * in Alexander's time propofed to have done Mount Athos. The figure of the ftatue is here prcfented. About a mile or two further, the fame way, lies the convent La Trap. of the La Trap monks, of the Ciftercian order ; the ftridleft of all others in the Rornifh church : they eat neither flefh nor fi(h, but live upon roots and herbs -, and, at the beginning of their inftitution, drank nothing but water; but they died fo fa(l ■with that extremity of abftinence, that now they drink wine, to correifl the coldnefs of their diet. They entertained us very handfomely in their way : before dinner, the prior and two of the monks brought water for us to wafli ; one held tlie bafon, another poured water out of the ewer, and the thiid held the FLORENCE. LA T R A P. 431 the towel. We had herbs and roots in great variety ; among the reft was beet-root, drelVd wiih oil, which was the principal diHi, and tailed very well. They l>ad alfo ibme plates of eggs drelVd for us; but thefe are not allow'd to thcmrclves, except when they travel i and then they may eat fidi likewile. They rile at midiiight to go to church, and continue there at their oilices two hours and a quarter ordinarily ; upon the principal fcftivals, four hours complete. They have all things in common, — No/i ferinetlendcji a chi die Jia, ne damro, nc dcpojilo, offtrva^doji perfctia communita di betii, as the book of their conftitutions cxprefll'S it. " Not allowing to any either money, or pro- " perty in any goods, but oblerving a perfedl community in *' every thing." Nor are they allow'd to have any will of their own, even that is to be perfectly refign'd to the command of their fuperior; and this is required to be with the utinoft ala- crity and readinefs. SpogUat'tJi affatto ddla propria volonta. " Diverting themfelves intirely of any will of thtrir own."-^And afterwards, Nonfuo ar/)ilrio invcntes, '■jcl de/Ideriisfuis, &c. Jid ambidantes alictiojudicio & imperio, &c. non tardc, non tcp'tde, ^c. •' Not living after their own way, or their own inclination, &c. " but conforming themfelves to the judgment and command " of others, &c. and that not with reludancy or lukc warm- " nefs." If any of them has committed any fault, tho' it be only breaking or lofing any utenfil belonging to the convent, or has been guilty of any excefs whatever, he is to declare it fpontaneoully forthwith. If it be difctlo efteriore, [an out- ward failing] it is proclaim'd in the chapter. Le colpc intc- riore rengono rifcr-jatc al facro tribunak della penitenza. The " inward offences are referved to be cenfur'd by the facred " tribunal of penance." If a fault be difcover'd by any other than the offender himfelf, his punidiment is to be greater: they arc to work at gardening, or other rural labour three hours in the day. Tho* their life be a continual abflinence, they have likewile fet falls at appointed times. They wear no linnen; and the woollen (hirts that are now allow'd thcin, is morv.- than what was anciently admitted in the Ciftcrcian order: they lie upon ftraw-mattraffes, with very coarfe covering. They have a phyiician find chirurgeon to 1 2 attend 432 FLORENCE. LATRA P. attend the infirmary with proper medicines; which is more than S. Bernard allows his dilciples ; the words of whole rule are, M'lnime competit religioni vejlra medicinas qiicerere corporalcs. De vilibtis quidetn herbis inter- dim aliquid fiwiere tokrabile eji. At vero /pedes emere, quarere medicos, acctpere potiones, religioni indecens ejl, &c. It " is no way fuitable to your religion to feek after medicines for " the body: — Now and then (indeed) to make ufe of fome *' common herbs may be allowable. — But to go and buy drugs, *' to fend for dodors, and takepotions, is unbecoming the •' religion you profefs." When any of them is near death, he is brought into the church to receive the extreme undtion: after which, he is carry'd back into the infirmary to die in form; for he is to die not on his Uraw mattrafs, but on loofe ftraw. The abbot firft fprinkles afhes, which have been blefs'd, in the form of a crofs, on the floor: then the fl:raw is laid, and the dying petfon upon it: the • They make reft of the convent are fummon'd by the beating of a board *, ufeof the like jQ fee him die; repeating the creed two or three times over, expedient ^ ^ among feveral audibly. orders to call They are enjoin'd perpetual filence among themfelvcs ; nor is to their mid^ ^ word fpoken, but in prefence of the prior, or fome fuperior; night orai- and that fcarcely at all, except in pious conferences, which are **"*'• appointed at fet times, and when ftrangers are with them. The only return they expedl, or will receive for the enter- tainment they give you, is, that you buy fome fealing-vvax, which they make of feveral forts, and a book of their confli- tutions. In our way from Florence to Bologna we pafs'dover the Giogo, the highefl: and iteepefl: afcent of the Appennine, that is in that part of Italy. The old fellow that liv'd at the top of it (where v/e chang'd horfes) feem'd a fort of deity of the place; always wrap'd in clouds : thehoufe within was full of continual fmoke, which arofe fcarce at all here, but kept company with the clouds, which were likewife continually hovering without. The old laird of it, who was feventy-three years old, had liv'd feventy of them in that place. Having got down the Giogo, and coming on to Fiorcnzola in the night, we faw the fires towards Pietra Mala : — Which father FLORENCE. LA TRAP. 433 father Kircher, in his Mundiis Subtcrramts, lib. iv. fedt. i. cap. iii. fuppolcs to ht fpiraciila fubt err and ignis, " Vents of " llibterraneous fire." They appcar'd to burn very clear in two places. The burning, they told us, is increas'd by rain. Father Kircher, in tlic fame place, affirms further, that this fire in the day-time (.is I undcrlland him) ceii ex ardent c fubtusfornaccy call gat & Jutiuit, ifijeSliifquc cakfacit aquas, ac incendit Jlipuhs. — — " as tho' there were a burning fi^rnacc under, linothers " and fmokes, will make water hot, and fet ftraw on fire." But the people there atfirm it to be a fort of lambent flame, and without fiiioke, fo that in the day-time noticing is feen there of it. And I myfclf, once before pafiing by that way, in the day-time, faw not the leaft appearance of finoke there, tho' I took particular notice; the pollilion fliewing me the place, where he faid there appear'd fire in the night. And a Milancfe baron travelling in company with us at the fame time, before we came to the place, had told us, that fomewhcre thereabouts, a fire appear'd in the night, but he did not know whether it were not then too light to fee it. One thing indeed is to be confider'd, that the temper of this place may vary, as that of mount Vefuvius does ; which burns not, nor fmokes alike at all times, and fometimes not at all : and further, that, thro' fome difference in the pabulem, this may be fupplied with at different times, when there is fire there it may be more or lefs grofs, and emit more or lefs fmoke. At Fiorenzola (a little town, but wall'd, as I remember) a poor Capucliin had taken poficffion of a bed, and wasjuflgot warm in it, when we came to the inn. But upon our arrival, they rouz'd the poor fellow to make room for one of our compa- ;iy : thofe gentry pay little or nothing for what tiiey have, and money was better to the hofl than a firing of Ave Maria's. After wc had left Fiorenzola, we went over the mounts Li- voli and Rcdicota, the later a bad pafiage. Thele are parts of the Appennine fiill. Soon after, we came to Fcligari, a fmall town ; a little on this fide of it, we left the great duke's domi- nions, and enter'd the Bolognefe : there were fbme altars on the road-fide. BOLOG- 434 B O L O G N N TH E city itfelf lies much upon a flat, bat has on one fide of it feveral confiderabie eminences ; as that on which the noble convent of S. Michdel in Bofco llands, that of the ■ Capuchins, and others : from each of thefe we have a very fine view, not only of the city itfelf, but of the vaft plain of Lom- bardy beyond it; which looks in the nearer part like a perfe«5t wood, as fhewing at one view the many rows of trees which • the vines run up; fome encompafiing, others running crofs the fields : the plain goes off at a diftance not unlike the fea; for thefurface, as the diftance increafes, appears fmoother, by the leflening of the objedls that are upon it, ftill as they go off from the fight, which has no other bounds than what the convexity of the globe gives it. I have here prefented a iTcetch of th-e fituation of this city. • Bologna la The grounds about it are verv rich*, not onlv in the vaft fogna'theFat. abundance of vines, olives, chefnuts, and other fruits, but likewife in corn, and good pafturage, which fills the markets with great plenty. The beef they have there, is (I think) the finefl I ever taited. The poorer fort (tho'in fo rich a country, that abounds almoft with every thing that even luxury can defire or wilh for) do in a manner fubfifi: upon the bifcottiy as they call there the roafted chefnuts, which the huckfters roaft in the ftreetsall about the town. All the principal ftreets of the city, and many of the leffer ones have on each fide a handfome portico, after the manner of that in CoventGarden. Some portico's are of one order of pillars, fome of another; fome oddly fancied, of no regular or- der. The entrance into the palaces (of which there is a great number in this city) is generally very pleafant: you fee at once from the ftreetinto the gardens quite through the whole houfe, which is often built round a court : the difpontion of the pillars is handfome, with a mixture of ftatues fometimes, and greens, to enliven the profped ; and often a perfpedtive painting on a wall, at the further end, to continue it. The front on the outfide is generally well built, and in fome mufl be called fine ; the proportion of the rooms within, very good : but brick floors. BOLOGNA. LACERTOSA. .;- floors, as in other parts of Itnly. The paintings in the palaces, but more elpecially in the churches, are vaftly numerous, and many of them exceeding fine, by the bcft mailers of the Lom- bard-fchool, which the virtuofi of the place arc fo hardy as to prefer not only to the Venetian, but even to the Roman itfcif : lb much I believe may be allow'd, that no one family ever fent out fo many great difciples as that of the Caracci did, of whole excellent works there is great plentv. The churches are fomc of them very fine ; but, after having faid lb much of thole at Rome and N.iples, &c. I Hiall forbear enlarging upon thole of this city. The convents are many of them exccedingmagnificent, particularly that of the Dominicans, the Olivetans, and the Carthufians. The two lart are a little way out of town. The Olivetans is that of S. Michael in Bof- co, already mention'd. Thefe fathers have a circular cloyfler, which was admirably painted by Guido, Ludovico Caracci, and others; but has been miferably abus'd : they have a gallery a hundred and eighty four paces long. The Certofa [Carthufians] rtands in a fine air, and pleafant LaCcrtci*. fituation, in the midft of vineyards. They have fcveral courts with cloyftcrs, one as large as the great court of Trinity col- lege in Cambridge. Each father has to his proper cell a pretty garden, in which fome of them are very curious, having many cxotick plants, &c. one of them had filh in his cifiern, which did eat lettuce, and other herbs out of our hands. This fa- ther had tried fome experiments in grafting ; as of a vine on a fig-tree, jafmin on an orange, which had taken, and grew. All of them have fome employment for their vacant hours. VV^e law a fine inlaid table which was made bv one of them. Another makes little images : another, IhufFj carrying it thro' the whole proccfs, from the planting the tobacco. Father Giovanni Girolamo paints in oil, and water; turns with the rofe-engine, &c. He fhew'd us a balTo relievo in ivory [good figures] which he had made, and hollow'd behind, that it look'd as if it werechas'd. He is well-lkill'd in perfpcdive andopticks. Hefliew'd us fcveral dillorted draughts of his own, which in po-- lilhed cylinders appear'd regular. He has a fine (clledlion of prints, intaglio's, cameo's, and natural curiofitics. In one part of the convent they have Ibme very handlbme apartments for 436 BOLOGNA. MENDICANT!. for the recepuotj of ftrant^ers. Thsy have excellent paintings in tiieir church, of all the Caracci, and others. About the church are as niaoy feveral chapels as there are f^the^s in the ccnvent, with an altar to every one. In one of thefe is the celebrated piece reprefenting S. John preaching in the vvilder- nefs ; by Ludovico Caracci : Padre Giovanni Girolamo tried his hand at engraving it. In another part of the church is the Communion of S. Jerom, by Agoftino : which the Bolognefe oppofe to that of the fame fubjecft at Rome, by Domenichin. Thefe (as feveral other orders) eat no flefli, rife at midnight, and keep filence ; two or three days in the week they dine together in the refectory, the other days feparate, in their cells. It were endlifs to enter into particulars of the mofl excellent paintings in the churches, conventual and others j befides, that there is a printed book which gives fome account of them all. I think, indeed, one can hardly have a juft idea of the Bolognefe mafters, fuch as the Caracci's, Guido, &c. who has not feen their performances in the churches here; the great freedom of hand, and the fuperior fpirit in thofe grand defigns ftrikes much more than what we generally fee in their fmaller pieces does. I can- not forbear mentioning one piece (of a lower rate than what I have been fpeaking of, tho' a very good piiflure too,) which I chiefly remark'd for the particularity of the defign : 'tis in the " There is a- church of the Mendicanti * within the city. S. Jofeph -f- [for nother of the j|-,gy always faint him in Italy ; is on his knees, before the Blefled without the Virgin big with child, aflcing pardon for having fufpedled her walls. chaflity: with one hand (he raifes him up ; with the other flie pifture? points upwards, as fliewing from whence her pregnancy was deriv'd : fome angels are clofe by : one claps his finger to his nofe, as in waggery ; another goes off with his face turn'd a lit- tle afidc, and his arms ipread, as in derifion. Tiiey keep this pidlure cover'd, but ailow'd us a fight of it, and 1 fnatch'd the opportunity of making a very hafty fketch of it, which I have here prefented. Tiiepicfture was painted by Tiarini, and is an altar-piece in one of the fide-chapels. BolyofS Cs- 1,1 the church of Corpus Domini they fhew'd us the body of X anna ign. g^ Catharina Vigri, clothed in cloth of filver : in her right hand Ihe holds a filvcrcrofs, her left refls on a book which lies on her knee ; flie fits under a canopy, the curtains of wbich 'V ¥3^' S.^iXf^//// /'^t/t//ni/^/M/h/^y/ t/yffd. /'^//i Sec, ff^^'t^rrtfl 3^^ S^/f/r/ru' /////^r// .C^,v,\'/.>//r. M .'X-..> BOLOGNA. S. P E T R O N I U S. 43^ which r.re held back by angels, gilt over : other angels of the fame fort hold wax tapers 011 each fide. This lad\', acccnding to their account, has been dead above two hundred and fifty years, yet her nails grow, and are pared once a year, and her body waflVd, the flefli of which they tell you is as foft as when alive : — that is to be taken upon their words, for you fee her only thro* a grate. The upper part of the face is black ; about the lips it is more of a flelh-colour ; the hands and feet look b'cKk. In this church is a moft celebrated pifture of llan. C'aracci, it reprcfents the refurredlion of our Lord. There are ioveral painted upon canvafs in guazzo [water-colour], by Francefchini, who was living when we were there, but old : this expedient he made ufe of to obviate the ill efFedl whicli the various lights in a church have upon oil-painting, as to the fliining. The der^ith of S. Jofeph, in a fide-chapel, is the moft celebrated of all his pcrfonnances, and is highly efteemed. Mr. Mifibn, furc, fancied Bologna to be diredly under the MeriJ'M equator, or at leaft within the tropicks, when he fet about to ''"'^* defcribe Cafiini's meridian line in the church of S. Petronius ; or he never could have told us,The hole in the roof thro' which a ray of the fun enters, was diredtly over the noon-point of the line. But tho' the latitude of Bologna were changed, to ferve his purpofe, he wanted ftill another expedient, when he ima- ginL'd the noon-point of the line could be always the fime. Every point in the Hne where the fjn's ray at any time falls thro' this hole is a noon-point, but never exadly the fame any two days together ; nor can ever be diredly under the hole, in a place that is not within the tropicks. The fituation of the church is almoft fouth and north, and not almoft eaft and weft, as that gentleman tells us it is : How elfe fliould a meri- dian ray fall, as he himfelf does (in that refped truly) defcribe it ? i. e. obliquely between the pillars that go along one fide of the great nave, and fo as but barely to find a palTage between them : whereas, if the church Hood almoft eaft and weft, the ray would take its courfe [with fome obliquity] acrofs the body of the church. The rays enter into the church through a hole in the roof of the fide-ifle : the line on which they fall be- gins in that ifle diredly under the hole, and ends at the bottom of the great nave : it confifts of a narrow flip of copper, with a Vol. H. K border BOLOGNA. S. PETRONIUS. border of white marble on each fide of it, laid in the pave- ment; and has divifions upon it for all the degrees of the ecliptick ; and the feveral figns are marked, and every tenth degree of each numbered. The height of the hole above the floor is about ninety foot Englifh, as I gathered from a meafurc, cut in the wall, which is expreffed to be the one liundredth part of the height of the hole ; the length of the nieafure is ten inches Enghfli, and about fix eighths of an inch. One end of the line is, as I have obferved, diredlly under the hole, at the point upon which a line let down from the hole per- pendicularly to the floor, would fall ; and for thirty-five foot from thence has none of the divifions or marks above-men- tioned upon it: at that diflance is the firft divifion, and by it is cut the mark for the tropick of Cancer, becaufe when the fun is in that tropick, the middle of the meridian-ray falls on the middle of the line at that divifion; and as the fun is then at its greateft height, that point is nearer the perpendicular of the hole, than any other upon which a ray of the fun can ever fall. From thence to the mark for the tropic of Capricorn, ■which is at the extremity of the other end of the line, is a hundred and eighty-feven foot Englifh, fo that the whole line is two hundred and twenty-two foot Englifli long ; whereof a hundred and eighty-feven are graduated, for the degrees of the ecliptick, and the other thirty-five (as I have mentioned) are undivided. The ufual charadlcrs of the feveral figns are cut in the marble borders, at the proper divifions, the afcending figns on the one fide of the copper flip, and the defcending on the other. You have here a draught of that part of the church whtre the line is defcribed, as alfo of the line itfelf : on the wall, near the meafure which I mention'd to be cut there, which flitws the height of the hole, is the following infcrip- lion cut in a fair marble. D. O. M. ,'/■;• /,Avy. v^y. 5%// ^7 'i v/i • ^//^/r/^/ • . / >/!' /////?A////A/M • ^f/ / '^^ •''•'^'' /%/ ^s^. 3S y////vv' //'///'/// //.■V/////////'//V///'/- ^^/ '/. BOLOGNA. S. P E T R O N I U S. 439 D. O. M. AVCTORITATE ILLVSTRISSIMOR VM SENATORVM I'RAESIDIS, ET FABRICENSIVM MERIDIANA HAEC LINEA HORrZONTAMS SOLEM IN MERIDIE E TEMPLI FORNICK AD INSCRIPTA COELESTIVM LOCORVM SIGNA TOTO AWO EXCIl'IENS ANTE XL. ANNOS PER INTERCOLUiVINIVM OBLICiVE' OCCVRRENS REPERTO ANGVSTISSIMO TRAMITE PERDVCTA ECCLESIASTICIS ASTROXOMICIS CEOCRAPHICISQyE VSIBVS ACCOMMODATA A' lOANNE DOMINICO CASSINO BOXONIENSIS ARCHIGYMNASII ASTRONOMO PRIMARIO ET MATHEMATICO PONTIFICIO AB ZODEM IN ITALICO ITINERE E' REGIA ASTRONOMICA PARISIENSJ REGIAQVE SCIENTIARVM ACADEMIA q%'0' AD CHRISTIANISS. REGEM LVDOVICVM MAGNVM ANNVENTE CLEMENTE IX. SVM. PONT. CONCESSERAT AD SOLEM ITERVM DILIGENTISSIME EXPENSA ■COELEST-I MERIDIANO ADHVC MIRE CONCRVERE INVENTA EST ET SEXCENTIMILLESIMAM TERRAE CIRCVITVS PARTEM AB INITIO AD SPECIEI SOLIS HYBERNAE IPSAM FINIENTIS MEDIVM ACCIPERE HORIZONTAL! AVTEM POSITIONI VNDE EXIGVO TEMPLI MOTV •NAEQyALIQyE SOLI ATTRITV RECESSERAT ACCVRATE' RESTITVTA INSTANTE ANNO MAXIMAE AEQVINOCTIORVM IN KALENDARIO CREGORIANO PRAECESSIONIS HIC' POTISSIMVM' OBSERVANDAE I.ABENTE ANNO SALVTIS MDCXCV. K 2 There 440 BOLOGNA. INSTITUTO. There is in the Certofa at Rome a meridian line, much in the nature of this, on the floor, made by Signor Bianchi, who (I think) was difciple to Caffini. In this church, on the feafl-day of the faint, to whom it is dedicated, and who is protedlor of the city, we heard a noble concert of mufick, vocal and inllrumental, in which the pcr-r formers were above a hundred and forty in number. They have here a bank for lending out money to poor perfons, much in the fame manner of the Monte di Pieta at Rome. Befides the antient univerfity of Bologna, they have an aca- Inflituto. demy of a late eredlion, which they call the Inftituto : tlie La- tin infcription over the gate at the entrance, ftiles it BONONIENSE SCIENTIARVM ATQVE ARTIVM INSTITVTVM AD PVBLICVM TOTIVS ORBIS VSVM. The ground-floor is fet apart principally for defigning or drawing, and is furniflied with cafl:s in gielTo of fome of the principal fl.atues in Rome and Florence, to defign after; and at certain times is provided with living perfons likewife. At the entrance into this apartment are two defigns of human figures, large as life, with meafures upon them (hewing the proportion of the feveral parts ; done by Valeriano Milani, who is for juftnefs of drawing efteemed one of the befl in Italy. There is liberty for any body to defign htre gratis. In another room, architecture and perfpedlive are tauglit by a mafter, who gives daily attendance there. The cieling of this room is painted in frefco by Pelegrino Tibaldi, in a bold mafterly manner ; fome academical figures, forefliortened : fome hifto- rical, particularly fome parts of the ftory of Polypheme ; from whence Hannibal Caracci feems manifeftly to have taken a hint for his Polyphemes in the Farnefe gallery at Rome. In u room within that, are models in wood of the Trajan and An- tonine pillars, and the chief obelifl^s in Rome, according to . their juft proportions, tho' of fmall fize. Above ftairs are many apartments, repofitories of feveral forts of curiofities, natural and artificial. In the Stanza Botanica, bcfideS- vaft variety of plants, are pieces of wood of all trees that are known. Another is for minerals and foflils. Another for. BOLOGNA. I N S T I T U T O. 441 for the various forts of marble: in others, are inftrumcnts us'd in aftronomy, and other parts of the mathematicks; fortification and gunnery, with models of fortifications and cannons, &c. In another arc air-pumps, and other inftrumcnts us'd in mecha- nical experiments. There are profefibrs likewife, upon whom ftipcnds arc fettled to read le(ftures in thefe and other matters. In other apartments, are inftruments us'd in the feveral forts of handicraft trades; till it comes to a perfedl finith's fhop in one of them. They fliew'd us fome of the old wooden plates lor printing, in imitation of drawings ; an art which once flou- riih'd much in Bologna. There are three of the plates for the fame print; the firll gives the lighter dye of the middle tindt, all over, except the principal lights,^ which arc left hollow'd in the wood ; the fccond gives a deeper dye of the middle tindt, where it is neceflary ; the third is for the ftrongeft Hiadows and the contours of the figures. We have an ingenious* Artift a- Mr. Kirk- mong ourlelves, who e.\cels in this way, whofe performances'^^"' the world is no flranger to. His plates (fome at leall) feem to be of metal. In another room are reprcfentations in painting of feveral meteorological pha^nomena, about the Alps, 6cc. One fhewing clouds where thunder and liglitning are generated, below the tops of thofe mountains. Fuljfeira noii deorfum modo,fedetiam furfuin o quaqiiaverfum cm'itti, as in the infcription on it.— — Views of cataradls of the Nile, and other places, with the rain- bows formed by them. Other apartments there are for antiquities, idols, infcripti- ons, and other curiofities of that nature, with four hundred copper plates of animals, plants, &c. intended to be publilh'd, with books giving defcriptions of them. The principal apart- ments have friezes painted by the Abbate Primaticcio, Nicola del' Abbate, and others. This building was a palace, but was appropriated to this ufe with the allowance of Clement XI. -f- being purchas'd by thet Ihavefccn' Publick, (as I was there told) at the inftance of general Marfig ^.WntXl. li, who at his own great expence furnilh'd moll; oi the apart- where thisln- mcnts above mention'd. ^:^^^ "^^ One 442 BOLOGNA. PUBLIC K PALACE. One day, as I was defigning fomewhat there, the general came in, and finding I was an Englifhman, he told me he had been in England, and fpoke much in praile of it. Publicl: pa- The Publick Palace, where are feveral courts of juftice, the '*'^*' refidence a\'o of the cardinal-legate, and Gonfaloniere, with his Antiani, is vaflly large, but not at all beautiful on the outfide. There are 'feveral fine apartments within, and fome excelLnt paintings by Guido, Paolo Veronefe, Carlo Cignani, &c. In one part is a large repofitory of curiofities ; and here are fhewn the hundred and eighty feven volumes in MS. of Aldrovandus, with the wooden plates for the cuts of the printed editions, and lim- nings in other books [fome very curious] of the animals, ve- getables, Szc. that he treats of. We were at a collation in this palace given by the cardinal- legate in carnaval-time ; where were mobbifli doings among the ladies, even thofe of the firfi: quality, who fcrambled like boys for the fweetmeats, Vv'hicb they pockejed, and fent ofi:" in • So they call handkerchiefs, &c. A Tramontane* company could but have the^AVs. ' ^ behav'd thus. However grave and referv'd the Italians are at other times, they throw off all at the carnaval, in other places, as well as they do at Venice. In the piazza before this palace, is a noble marble fountain, with an admirable ftatue of Neptune in the middle by John de Bologna, and water-nymphs below, with the water fpouting out of their breads, in copper. PalTice Ra- The Palazzo Ranuzzi is particularly famous for a very large ^■""'' and fine double ftaircafe, and a noble hall : the later is quite new, and but juil finifli'd when we were there, 1721. It is adorned with Corinthian pilafters, and other ornaments, well imitating ftone; with paintings in guazzo, the hiftory of the family, and one reprefcnting the king of Denmark's reception in tliat palace. In the apartments, inftead of chimneys, we faw large caldano's of filver, for charcoal, in the middle of the rooms. Pal. Fantucci. At the Palazzo Fantucci J is another fine flair cafe, which they fay cofl: fifteen thoufand crowns : the fleps are of Greek marble, each of one piece- t Elephantucius : there has been a faint of this family, whofe pi^ure is in the pa- kce. 3 At BOLOGNA. P A L. C A P R A R A, Sec. 443 At the Palazzo Pepoli I obfcrv'd an infcription which Hiews Pal. Pcpoli. they deduce tlie origin of their family from fomc imaginary fon of a king of England. lOANNES ALVERDI VI REGIS ANGLIAE FILIV3 FAMILIAE FVNDATOR CC.MLXXII. Elfred, or Alfred, muft be the king they mean : who accord- ing to fome of our chronicles did begin his reign in the year 872 ; but how he is made the fixth of that name, king of England, or the fixth king of England, I know not : and we Iiear but of two fons that he had, Edward and Ethelward. The P.\lazzo C.'.prara is one of the mo(l: magiiihcent for ar- Pal. Caprara. chitedure; it is built round a court, of which a largo ftiiircafe with a double afcent, takes up one fide : a gallery runs along the oppofite fide, furniOi'd with fpoils taken from the Turks, by a general of this family. In this, and fome other palaces of Bologna, we faw fome of thofe admirable carvings of Bonini in wood, fix'd within boxes, reprefenting forerts of trees ; fo deli- cately wrought as to move with a blaft of wind : one of this fort I have heard is fomewhere in London. The Palace of the Marquis San Pieri is nothing extraordinary Pal. SmPIcru for its ftrudture, but has the belt colledlions of paintings I faw in Bologna. There are of all the Caracci, fome in oil, fjme in frefco ; of Guido, Albani, Siriion da Pcfaro, Guercino, and others; with fome excellent fculpture of Algardi, and fig- nor Mazza, a very good marter, living when we were there. Count Favi has alfo a very good collecftion, fomc friezes, and Count Favi. other pieces by the Caracci, and other of the Lombard maf- tcrs. This count Ihew'd us feveral things of his own copying, very well perform'd. In the Palazzo Bonfiglioli Senatorio, among feveral other Pal. Bonfig- excellcnt painting?, is a Flight into Egypt of Jofeph and the''°''* Blefled Virgin with Chrift; by Ludovico Caracci: they are pafiing over a water in a boat : one angel holds the fail, and another the mart, and fpreadshis wings to the wind. The linen about the Blelfcd Virgin's head fcems to gather the wind too : fo that every thing appears as contributmg to the motion. The countenances of the Virgin and Chrifl are admirabk ; as indeed 444 B O L O G N A. P A L. Z A N I, &c. indeed is the whole pidure. The ferry-man rows after the Venetian manner. TheBolognefe will not bear a comparifon of Hanibal Ca- racci with Ludovico. Had Ludovico been as equal to himfelf as Hanibal was, I know not whether indeed he might not have claim'd the preference; but fuch inequalities as are fometimes feen, even in the feveral parts of the fame piece, do take off agood deal from his general charadber j particularly in that famous piece of his, the Caduta di S. Paolo [which is the term they give to what we call the Converfion of S. Paul] in the church of the Francifcans. But, in fome he is almcit fuperlative. The Bolognefe give his manner the epithets of ferocijjima, terribik, tremenda, occ. as fcriking with awe and reverence. Pal. Zatii. In the Palazzo Zani is that celebrated picfbjre of Parmegiano, the Madonna della Rofa, the defign of which is pretty well known by the many copies there are cf it. Plere are feme cielings painted in frefco, by Guido. Bor.figl. di At fignor Bonfiglioli's di Galiera, are fome good paintings ; Galieia. jj^j there is likewife a great coi!e<fi:ion of fine drawings, of all the Caracci, Raphael, Giulio Romano, Midi. Angelo, Poly- dore, Guido, Coreggio, &c. Some in frames and glaffes hung up in the apartments, and two large books fuil : thefe contain great variety of the beft mafters of the Roman, Bolognefe, and Venetian fchools : fomiC of the higheft finiih'd that 1 have feen of Giulio Romano, heighten'd with a white- wafli. Befides thefe, this gentleman has a fine library, and colledlion of medals j he was was extremely obliging and com- municative. Sign.Belucci. Signor Belucci [a banker] has feveral good paintings; and one room furnifh'd all with drawings ; a great many very good, by the Caracci, Guido, &c. Among them is an original drawing of Raphael for the famous pi(iture of S. Ca;cilia in the church of S. Giovanni in Monte : it varies a little from the pidlure. In thcjlra * maggiore [the greater flreet] we faw a hall finely painted, fides and cieling in perfpedive; by Dentone. The • Siraiorflra.ia. The Bolognefe are very frugal in their nronunciatioii ; they feldom give you above half the word. per- BOLOGNA. PAL. ALEE R GAT L -44.^ performances of Mctelli and Colonna the fame way (pretty fre- quent in the churches and palaces) are very much eflcem'd. On thcoutfidc of the Palazzo Bolognini wc faw fomc very Pai. Boj(,-„i. fine heads in fculpture, much rcfcmbling tlie antique ; by Al- »•• phonfo di Fcrrara, and Giovanni Tedcfcho, as fignor Mazza [lately mention'd] faid ; but count Bolognini himlclf told me they were all by Alphonzo, At the palace of the Marchefc di Monti (who was Gonfalonier Pal. Monte, when we firft ramc there;) at the Pal. Malvafia ; at that of fignor Quaranta Ifolani, Tanari, Magnani, Ratta, Zambcccari, and others J bcfides thofe of Ranuzzi, Caprara, 6cc. above- mention'd, are many excellent paintings, which I forbear troubling the reader with particularizing. About five miks out of town is a fine palace of count Alber- p^, y^n.^. gati; there is a noble plainnefs on the outfide. The wall ofgr.ti. the lower part is built, not perpendicular, but lloping, balHon- wife. Within, is one of the noblell halls I have feen. A portico at each end, with pillars of the Corinthian order, whicii fupport a gallery above. On each fide is a fort oi vef.i- buhim (the cieling painted in frefco) which has an open pafiage each way. Thro' thefe and the portico's you may go quite round the hall, which goes up to the top of the houfe. There is a cupola in the middle; at the top of which is the hour- circle of a clock. Unicorns, arms and trophies are at each corner above. All the ornaments are of fluccc, but perfectly refembling ftone. There is a pair of ftairs towards one corner, which leads to fome fmall upper rooms, where the afcent is ftrait, ard the flcps mull confequently have been fteep ; fo it was contrived to divide them, to make them more eafy : in the manner as will be feen in the following page. There is a viflo quite thro' the houfe, with a moft pleafant profped: each way. The grandfather to the prefcnt count built it, and defign'd it all himfclf. Vol. IL L ' Another 446 BOLOGNA. Illliiililllijrlllililiii Another piece of work we favv (and 'tis an uncommon one) a portico of three miles in length, which goes from one of the city-gates along a flat of a mile and a half, and from thence for a mile and a half more up an afcent to a little church BOLOGNA, church on the top of a hill, where is lodg'd a pidurc of the Blcircd Virgin, pretended to have hcen painted by S. Luke. 'Tis for tlie fake of this Santa Imagine (as iheyjcall it) that this portico was built, to make the proccdions .ilong it, in devotion to that image, which is not at any time to be fecii without a great deal of apparatus, lighting great number of wax-tapers, &c. tho' the fun Hiine at the fame time upon it, as it did when wc law it. The devout look upon it kneeling, and have a fct ol: prayers ufual upon the occafion. This portico was built by voluntary contributions ; many of the arches were done wholly at the expence of the nobility, and aredirtinguiHied by the arms of the builder, which are paint- ed within them, and are repeated in every arch where the fame perfon built Icvcral. The meanefl artilicers, the olUers in inns, and other fcrvants, have alfo done their quota, which is likewife diilinguidied by infcriptions, and fome device under each arch inilead of a coat of arms. At certain diftances arc little chapels or oratories, with devotional pidlures in frefco. In another church, called S. Paolo in Monte, fometimes I'Oflervanza, a little way out of town, I faw a crucilj.v of wood, under which was written ^cjlo crjicijijfo ha parlato, [This cru- cifix has fpoken.] I afked one of the monks what it had Aid ; but he was not ready to tell me. He had doubtlefs tho befl of reafons for it. The well-known cenigmatical epitaph [JElla LcsUa, &c.] is in the poiTclTion of Domenico Francia, a merchant, at the Cafa llalta, about a mile out of Bologna. It is inferred in the out- fide wall of the houfc. There have been above forty books written with an endeavour to explain it, and, by what I can find, it is Aill as far from being cleared as the dark author in- tended it iliould be. One of the lateft (which ought to be the clcarert) is a piece of jargon as unintelligible as the thing it.felf. In the garden of the marquefs Poeta, we fivv one kind of theyiVwj hid'tca^ the fruit red, the leaf thick, and like a dog's ear. This grew not as a tree, but rather as a plant, clofe to the ground. There are of the fame name about Naples, which grow as trees about two or three yards high. We faw jcflemin here flowering in November, and the gar- dener told us it docs fo all the year round, and that they made twenty pilloles per annum of the flowers, and fomttimes more. L 2 They 447 448 BOLOGNA. They grow all along an efpalier, not above twenty yards in length. Bologna is a place where they deal much in effences and per- fumes, as they likewile do at Rome; which makes the market the better for odoriferous flowers. The Gonfalonier for the time being is the cliief magifl:rate in the city, on the part of the' republick, as the cardinal-legate fs on the part of the pope, and goes attended with guards. The fenaiors take this ofHce in their turns. Of thefe the number was once only forty, but upon their becoming fubjedt to the pope, he added ten more; yet they are ftill called the Qua- •» They often ranta, and in all perfonal addreffes they are ftiled Sieur * Qua- there(ayA/-r r^„{jj_ The office of Gonfalonlcr continues but two months, and long enough too, confidering the conftant attendance they are obliged to: for they are required to be continually at the publick palace, and there to hear in perfon the meaneft that comes upon any bufinefs to them. If the Gonfalonier fleeps a-nights at home, 'tis in flridtnefs a defertion for that time, tho' not infifted on, for they do at night go to their own houfes by connivance : but he is accountable if any thing ill happen, dur- ing his abfence from his pofl ; where he is fuppofed to be always prefent, and ready with his guards about him upon any emer- gency ; which a noble perfon very truly called a mounting the guard for two months. The office devolved, when we were there, upon Signer Legnani, our next neighbour : the Marq. di Monte was his predecelfor. At the acceffion of each new Gonfalonier, there is a cuflomary fee of eatables to the Swifs guards, called a meraida, which they fetch from the Gonfalonier's houfe to the publick palace in great ceremony. The proceffion of the animals, the oxen led along with gar- lands, the wine, &c. put me in mind of an antient Roman facriiice; the hog, the wether, and the ox, much refem'- bling the o\d fuovetaurilia. The particulars of the proceflion would be too tedious and trifling. They made the creatures as fine as they could, gilding tiie horns and hoofs of the oxen, i5cc. and likewife the fnouts of the hogs; perhaps as having now done with rooting in the dirt. A fountain of wine was running all the time of the ceremony ; which was finirtied with a largefs of bread to the common people, and money thrown among them ; then the Gonfalonier goes attended by BOLOGNA. 449 Sy the Antiani *, who are eight nublcmeii of the city chofcn* riiey aie by him as l)is companions, together with the reft of tlic nobi- '^^"'■'' ^"""'"• lity, lenators, &c. to the piibHck palace; where he receives aVjhavoob-' from the preceding Gonfalonier the l^andard [gonfa/onc] of the 'erv''^ '" «hcir republick, and inltruflions from him of the prefcnt poftiire of ^"1*''^^^'^"' afiiairs, and what he is to do : and tiien he takes the ufual oaths, which are admiiiillrcd by the cardinal-legate. The cardinal- legate continues for three years: he is appointed by the pope, together with a vice-leg3te, and other afliilants. He illues out his orders, with the conlent of the Gonfalonier and fenate ; who, I fuppofe, mufl: not refufe it. They have the word LI- BERTAS llill fioiiriHiing in their city-arms, and glory much in their republick, with a S. P. Q^B. in all their publick places : vet they feeni to be pretty much under the hank of his hulinefs, -iio' in a far better llate than moll of their neighbours. They have in their cluuchcs a diverting piece of devotion, Oratorio, which they call an Oratorio : it is a mufical drama of two adts, after the manner of the (lage-opera's, with recitativo between the fongs. The fubjeift is either fome fcripture-dory, or a rtory of fome of their own faints ; generally the lall. Be- tween the ads there is a fermon ; fo timed fl fuppofe) to fecure fuch of the audience as might be apt to leave the preacher in the lurch, if they were not to have fome mufick to fweeteii their mouths with at laft. 'I he whole is introduced with a per- formance fwmewhat unufual, a difcorfo (as they term it) fpokcn by a little boy : we heard two of them : the firft was about fijc years old, who mounted the roftrum with a manly gravity, and after having faluted the audience, cock'd his hat, (for they are cover'd upon fuch occafions in the churchs) and with a folemti wave of his hand, pronounced SHetitio ! before he began his difcourfe. The latter could not hi above four years old, both by his fize and fpeech, tor he could but jurt fpeak plain ; him they drcft up in the habit of a priefl; and the little creature performed to a miracle. The fubjcdl: of the difcourfe is ta- ken from the occafion of their meeting ; the former was upon the eve of All-Souls ; Charity to our Friends in purgatory was the topic. The latter was on the night of the grand procef- fion, on account of the plague, which was then at Marfeilles : of that. Repentance and Humiliation was the fubjcC;!:. They teach thofe little orators, not only the emphafis and accent,. . but- ^5° BOLOGNA. bat the proper adlion likewife, which they perform extremely well. There was at Bologna (as in other cities of Italy) upon the laft-mention'd occafion, a week's intermiflion from operas, and all publick diverfions, by order of the pope, which they call a Jubilee, for the taking out of indulgencies at certain churches *■, appointed by the pope. I thought it odd to call a time of hu- miliation a Jubilee ; but it is termed fo, as I was informed, be- caufe Heaven is then declared by his holinefs to be in a particular manner open. On the firft day of the Jubilee there was a gene- ral proceffion of all the religious orders, and alfo of the citi- zens in feveral companies, thro' the moft publick parts of the city. Several particular proceffions continued all the week. The proceflloners wear upper garrrjents of linen, which they have ready upon fuch occafions, with veils over their faces, hav- ing holes only for their eyes to peep thro'. He that carries the crucifix goes before them bare-foo^ They go to attend fune- rals in like manner ; and upon thofe occafions boys are fome- times drelled with wings to reprcfent angels attending the corpfe, which is carried with the face and hands and feet uncovered. On the eve of the Immaculate Conception [Dec. 7.] we heard an 'j- academical performance, confiding of ihort exerciles, fome in verfe, fome in profe, upon the immaculate conception of the Bleflcd Virgin, fpoken by feveral in their turns ; among which were fome of the chief quality in the city, the prefident of the fociety beginning the performance. It was in the church of S. Francefco ;|:. The cardinal-legate, and Gonfiilonier, were prefent. The firfl of them upon this and all other occafions of his appearance in publick has a fort of throne, with a balda- chino or canopy, eredted for him. The perform.ance conclud- ed with fireworks, illuminations, &c. On the day following (which was the feaft-day) was a great concert of mufick, both vocal and inftrumental, in the fame church, which they told us was compofcd by a boy of thirteen years old. * Some churches have more privileges than others, and fome altars in the fame church, for this purpofe. t An Academy is a general word us'd among them for publick aflemblies and perfor- mances, whether of mufick, or of belles-lettres. X The Francifcans are extraordinary fticklers for the immaculate-conception ; in op- pofition to the Dominicans; for wliich ref.fon tliev fignalize thecafclves rarticuIarJy on thisfeaft. ' ^ 1 / 7 On BOLOGNA. 451 On the nth of November [S. Martin's day] is held an annual feart: in memory of the banifhmcnt of the Bentivo^lio family ffom Bologna for attempting to maintaiji the fovercignty of that place againll the pope, [JuHus II.] after fevcral popes his prcde- ceflbrs had been pollcflcd of it. Their palace was pulled down, never to be rebuilt, and the ground ftill lies vacant. The family is now fettled at Ferrarj, where they have a fine palace. The cardinal of that name and family happened to be at Bologna about the time of this annivcrlary, when we were there, and did not fcrupic to remain in the city the very day of the feaih Next to tile place where the Bentivoglio palace was, that of the marquis Palcoti is. The execution of the brother of this marquis in England occafioned this refleftion at Bologna, with refpedl to their having imprifoned the earl of Peterborough, in fort Urbano : " That theEnglilh were a people not to bejclkJ " with. We did (lay they) but imprifon one of their counts, " and they have hanged one ot our niarquiires." The marquis we faw at Bologna converfed with us with more candour and freedom, than (as Engliflimen) we could have expcdled. I obferved more poor naked boys in Bologna th»n in any city ■whatever that we were in. The reafon I was told is, that they are turned out of the Piefa at fix or feven years old, and no care taken of them afterwards *. When I have gone out early in a * fn the morning, I have feen them lying in heaps by dozens, ncHling M^an and together as clofe as they could, like little pigs, having no other clffwherctSry covering than the ferry rags they wear all day, nor any thing '^f.f°-"^"^'"" , f I 1- 'i n I i{n " cti nil lourceCQ Hnder them, except perhaps a little Itraw, upon the cold (tones years, under the publick porticoes ;. and the winters there arc at leali as cold as ours. Wc fee there feveral children of the better fort, dreficd (as foon as they go) in the habits of feveral orders of friars. Thefe are devoted from the wonib ; either for fomc deli- verance of the mother from fome imminent danger at the birth, or upon fomc particular occafion during the preg- nancy. Ttie Bolognefe nobility, tho' they live in the city, keep their country eftates in their own hands, which are manur'd and till'd by their vali'.ils, and other poor people, at low rates. The produce of them, or great part thereof, is brought to their ma- gazines in town ; and in their dealings they make a chief part of ihcir 45i M O D E N A. their payments in corn, fometimes in wine; which the people of quality there retail ; as they likewife do at Florence, where they have little wickets in their gates, or walls, of a fize only to put thro' a fingle flafk of wine. Bologna is a place of freer converfation than moft in Italy; the men gay, genteel, and fociable; and the ladies not fo re- clufe as. in mofi: other places. About a pod and half from Bologna, towards Modena, is the FortUrbano, already mention'd, built by Urban theVIIIth, who raifed the Barberini family. A little beyond that, near thePonte del Einza, we left the Bolognefe, and enter'd the Modenefe, MODENA. WE went here to fee the duke's palace, and the fine Gallery of Pidures, for that they call it (a Gallery of Pitlures Ijeing the ufual term in Italy) tho' it is indeed a fuite of rooms one within another. To give a particular catalogue of them all, would be but fuch an entertainment to the reader as the calling over an inventory would be. The moll: noted ones are. The famous Notte di Coreggio, a Nativity : 'tis fo far a night-piece, as that all the light of the pifture flows from the infant, who feems perfedly to fliine : and tho' there be fcarce any fliadow at all in that figure, yet the Umbs are all perfedlly well rounded off, with an inexpreflible delicacy and tender- nefs. The fliadows caft on the rell of the figures, with little lights catching on the feveral parts, and a bright one on the face of the Virgin, which is jufl: ov'er the Chrilf, have a moft de- lightful effed:. This thought has been followed by great num- bers of others, which we have feen. This is one of many that were taken out of the churches : and there is a copy of it now in the church of S. Profper at Reggio, where the original once was. The copies ferve the devotion of the people as well ; and •the virtuofi fee them in a much better light where they are, and better preferv'd. His highnefs doubtlefs thought fo, or elfe he who was once a cardinal himfelf, would hardly have de- prived the church of them. Among the many pieces of Titian in this gallery, there is one particularly noted for its high finifhing ; it is called the Moneta, being the tribute-money fliewn to Chrift. But fome of his in this M O D E N A. this collcdion, tho" not fo higlil)' hniflicd, arc (I think) prefe- rable to it. They (hew another piiflurc, which is faid to be of Coreggio, but a good deal differing from his ufual manner : it is moft high- ly finidi'd, and (if one may objedl any thing to fo celebrated a piece) feems rather over-labour'd, and the feet not very corrcfl- iy drawn. It is a Magdalen lying afong, and reading, with her head rais'd up, and fupportcd by hvr right liand. Tis fct in a filver frame adorn'd with jewels. There is a copy of it at Parma, faid to be by Titian, but it feem'd to me rather in Ca- racci's manner. This famous picflure is clofetcd up, and when flicwn, is brought forth with great folemnity. I have fcen at London a little pidure reprefcnting part of the fame figure, faid by the poileffor, Abbate Riari, to be Coreggio's firft thought for this. In the room where they fhew this pifture, are feveral ritratts of his highnefs's anceliors at full length, byTitian, and other eminent niafters. The colledtion is chieHy of the Lom- bard-l'chool, except a Madonna of Raphael, and another, which is a Bacchanal, faid to be of him; but, only call'd his firfh manner, and that dubitable ; and, three battles of Giulio Ro- mano, with one or two more pieces of other mafters. The apartments are fmall, and have but little furniture, whii-h you can call fine, befides the pidlures. There has been fome new work at the palace, but it feems at prefent to be at a ftand. The facade to the right is finirti'd without, and the fame (idc of the palace unhniOi'd within : the other fide 'cice verp. There is a handfome lliir-cafc, and an op.n portico leading to the apartments. From Modcna we pafb'd thro' Reggio, already fpoken of, and fo to Parma. R M 453 X e in TH E view of this city thro' an arch (like a triumpl about a furlong dilbnt from it, is very plcafant. You come a confiderable way in a flrait road, and all along have in view one of the principal towers, exadly anfwering the middle of the arch. Vol. II. M The 454 PARMA. The two famous cupola's of Coreggio, and other paliitlngsof that inafter in the dome, and in the church of S. Giovanni of the Benediiftines, have been defcrib'd by feveral ; fo I forbear enlarging upon them. Though 'tis with great pleafure one ob- fervesthe admirable beauty and harmony in thefe grand perfor- mances, even at the dirtance they are feen, yet I believe every one that Ices them, feels fome regret that he cannot have a nearer view of them, efpecially fuch as would be inquifitive as to the colouring part, which had fo great a fhare in the charadler of that mailer. They are much decay'd. The theatre at Parma outdoes all I ever faw for magnificence of flrudlure, and advantage of feeing ; and of hearing too j at leafl in fome refpefts. It will contain (as they told us there) fourteen thoufand fpedators. One effedt of the contrivance in it is wonderful with refped to the hearing ; that fpeaking but a degree above a whifper, the words are diftindtly heard from the remotefl: part of the ftage to the very door of the entrance at the other end, as we tried in feveral inftances. This was what we took notice of in the empty theatre ; for there were no opera's on foot when we were there. But I have heard an eminent mafter of mufick in Italy complain of this theatre, as not doing juftice to the mufick, in the performance of an opera ; that it is not heard to fo much advantage here, as in fome other theatres. The pidures in the duke's gallery are too numerous to trou- ble the reader with a full account of them, and many of them too fine to be barely mention'd : however, I will take notice of two or three of the principal. Some Madonna's of RaphaeL ^One is call'd the Madonna del Gatto, from a cat coming from under the table. This man- ner of dcfcription is frequent in Italy : as Parmegiano's famous Madonna della Rofa, at Bologna. Anotiier, with the Chrirt: lying on his back, and the arms flung up, a moft lively figure ; 'tis the fame attitude as that at Loreto. Another of Raphael, a Holy Family, painted in that palace; of which fome copies are in England. Andrea del Sarta's famous copy of Raphael's ritratt of Leo X. &c. which is at Florence. The gallery-keeper, when hefliew'dit us, called it an original of Raphael. I knew that other account they fometimes give of it, and advis'd him for 5 the PARMA. the future to allow it to be a copy ; and ftick to tlic old ftory of its being fuch a copy as even Giulio Romano could not di- ftinguifli from the original, tho* he himfclfhad work'd in one part of it. A fine ritrat of Paul III. by Titian. There arc two or three ritratts of this pope : one when he was very old, in Guxzzo, over the door at the entrance. A Danac and Cupid, by the Time ; excellent. Antca, Parmcgiano's millrcfs, with a fquirrcl on her arm : the figure ftands with the face fore-right ; by Parmcgiano. A Venus, furrounded with Cupids; one leads off a girl : by H. Caracci. The marriage of S. Catherine, little; admirably good. I think it as agreeable a pidlure as moft I have feen : by Curcg- gio, Signor Gahbiani of Florence made a very good copy of it, which wc faw at his houfe there. At the upper end of the fecond gallery, which makes a right angle with the firft, is a piece of frefco-painting of Corcg- gio, reprefenting the coronation of the BklT;d Vir;iin, which was brought from the Tribuna of the choir of S. Giovanni, when that Tribuna was taken down to enlarge the choir : but the painting was taken care of, and brought to this gallery, by the father of him who fhew'd us the gallery, who was then living, 1721. It is finely colour'd, and in a great ftyle ; much in the manner of the cupola of that church. There is in this gallery a piece of rock-cryftal two foot ten inches, by two foot fix j it is a Biceps, in the figure they gene- rally defcribe Parnaflus. Out of this fecond gallery you go into a room, where is a very large, valuable, and finely difpos'd colledion of medals, which will flill be much enlarg'd by a late purchafe, not yet added to them. Thofe now there, are not hid in drawers, as ufual, but are all ready for view at once on feveral tables, which have over them a defence of wire (no hindrance to the fight ot them) to prevent pitchy fingers, which are now and then found among Virtuofi, and which that very room has not been free from. And for feeing the reverfes, there is a contrivance to turn them all, a whole row at one turn. Befidcs the medals, here are a great many fine intaglio's and cameo's ; among the M2 lart 455 456 PARMA. laft I obferv'd a moft excellent one of Marc. Aurelius ; and an- other of the Rape of Ganymede; from which Mich. Angelo, no doubt, took, his defign for that pidure of his which was in the duke Di Bracciino's palace, pnrchas'd among others by the duke of Orleans. I have ktn in England one of the lame defign. Among the drawings which are hung upon the walls of this room, I obferv'd an admirable one of Giulio Romano, a Banquet of the Gods, with this line writ on it. XuiJ-rrlxnov t^t \ti Gi^i-, Procul cjic prophaut. They fliew likewife drawings of Raphael's Transfiguratfon, and Michael Angelo's Laft Judgment, whic h they call originals ; as they do a pidure of the latter, at the upper end of the firft gallery, which they fay is IVlichael Angelo's Jbozzo [or firfl model] for that performance. I could not agree with them, tho' it is a fine piece : it has too much finishing, and too little fpirit, and is not fo firmly drawn as to induce one to believe it to be what they call it. The chief mafters, whofe works make this admirable colledion, (and ibme of whom have beeu nam'd already) are Raphael, Giulio Romano, Coreggio, Titian, Schidone, Ludovico and Hanibal Caracci, Parmegiano, Andrea del Sarta, Guido, Lanfranc. Nor muft we forget a mod in- genious female artift, of whofe work there are two pieces : in one is her own ritratt : in the other are her three fifters, &c. as the infcription fhews, Sophonhba Anguff'ola, Amilcaris filia, ires fiias for ores., & ancUlam pinxit MDLV. The former is much the fame with that in my lord Cadogan's gal- lery. In the Palazzo di Villa, or garden-houfe, which is at the other end of the town, tho' there are many excellent paintings of Hanibal, &c. yet in fhewing this palace they lay the greatell ftrefs upon the laft and unfinifh'd work of Agoftino, in frefco, the fides and cielingof a fmall, but pleafant room. In one part they fliew this infcription. Augujlimis Caraccus, dton extremes immor talis fui penicilU iraSlus in hoc femi-piSlo forjiice moUretur, ab qficiis pingendl ^ vivendi fiib umbra UUorum gloriose vacavit. Tu, J'peBator^ inter PARMA. P I A C E N Z A. inter has dulces pi^ura acerbitatcs fufce oculos, ^ falebere deculJJ'e potiiis intaclas fpeSlariy quam alicnd tnanu traUatas maturari. " While Auguftine Caracci was attempting to give tlie hiii/h- ** ing touches of his immortal pencil to this half painted vauir, " he here beneath the fliaiic of" lillies, with glory rcfign'd at *• once both his art and lii'c. Whoever thou art that vicwefl: " the fweet roughneHes of thcic paintings, feed thine eyes, " and confcfs that it was fit they lliould rather be vjcw'd with- " out being farther touch'd than be wrought up and finilh'd by " any other liand." About five miles from Parma, wc pafs'd the Taro, in a ferry made of two boats, as already defcrib'd at the Po. About a mile further, we pafs'd by the Caftello Gutlpho. About three miles beyond that, wc came to Colorni, a feat of the duke of Parma's : > Nothing there fo remarkable as to engage our flay. At Borgo S. Domino, which is two ports, about fifteen miles, from Parma, we faw a convent of jefuits newly built, where thole gentlemen have good fat polfcirions. P I A C E N Z A. T^HREE pofls more brought us to Piaccnza, another city -*- of the duke of Parma. In the ducal palace, upon the walls of the hall, and in the apartments, are painted in frefco the hiftories of Alexander Far- nefe, and of Pope Paul the Third. In the great Piazza is an equellral ftatue in copper of the fame Alexander; and another of Ranuccio, with this infcription, RANVCCIO PIACENTiAE ET PARMAE D. GONFAL. PERPET. In the church of S. Siflo is a Madonna of Raphael, with the Chrift in her arms, {landing on a cloud, If one may call it flandinu:, for (lie feems perfeilly in motion : below is S. Sillo on one lide, and S. Scholaftica on the other. In the dome arc fjmc very good paintings of Lud. Caracci, Lanfranc, Guercino, Camillo Procacini, and Francefcliini of Bologna. The organs and mufick-gallcries in this church are finely built. i'l' 457 458 P I A C E N Z A. In the church of the Madonna Campagna are fome good paintings of Pordennone in frefco. This duke has an Irifli company in pay, who keep guard at the palace where his highnefs refides. After we had feen the palace, and the fervant who fhew'd it had been hanfomely gra- tified, one of the inferior fervants came to our houfe to afk money, tho' he had given no attendance at all, nor had any thing to do with us. Such a thing would look very odd in England, how far foever the Italians may value themfelves upon piin(5lilio above the Tramontani; were there indeed any flrefs to be laid upon the behaviour of fuch fellows, who have as little regard to the honour of their own mafters, as they have of civility to ftrangers. We pafs'd the Po a little without Piacenza. At Mirandola we left the duke of Parma's dominions, and enter'd the Mila- nefe : a fmali ditch parts them. In this road we met one with a cloak made of rufhes. At Lodi, two pods fhort of Milan, they now make the beft cheefe in Italy ; formerly the beft cheefe of that fort, ufed to be made about Parma : and thence took the name of Parme- gian, or Parmezan, which, notwithftanding the change of place, it flill retains. It has a quality very oppofite to our CheQiire ; for 'tis reckon'd moft in perfedtion, when a moifture ftands vifible in the pores of it: and that is of fo vifcous a con- fiftence, that when you break a lump of it in two pieces, and draw them gently afunder, you may fee the moifture extended like a multitude of fmall hairs from one to the other. Such as I have tafted in England has been drier, fo as not to (hew that efFedt. We met with nothing more, worth taking notice of, till we came to Milan, which is feven teen pods from Bologna, all an open, fair, and exceeding good road, except about five or fix miles near Cafali. MILAN. M I L A N. M I L A N. THIS city is celebrated for its extent, the fortifications being faid to be near eight miles round. As all the chief cities of Italy arc diftinguifli'd by their fevcral epithets, Genoa the St.Uely, Florence the Fair, (?cc. fo Milan is fliled the Great; not but that I found it much finer too than I cxpefted, by fome accounts I had heard of it. It is fituated upon a fair and fer- tile plain, well water'd with abundance of rivulets, which have been brought thither with a good deal of art and contrivance, as well as expence. In fome places as we came along, we faw them brought one over another, where the grounds lay Co that the currents mufl crofs ; fo that one brook ran over the bridge, while another ran under it. By the help of thcfe currents thty lay their rice-grounds under water, which that grain requires : it grows in great quantities about fix or feven miles from the city. I fuppofe they have induftrioufly avoided planting it nearer the city ; for, tho' the grain be wholefome, the air where it grows is not efteem'd fo, by reafon of the ftagnated water. The vines about Milan are made to grow much in the form of a hay-rack for a farm yard, raifed about four or five foot from the ground; and with thefe the fields in fome parts are over- fpread. 459 /^><Tl. !: T 460 M I L A N. From the top of the dome we had a full view of the great plain around the city; the neareft hill we faw, they told us, was above thirty miles off: others, to which the plain extends itfelf, are vaftly further. The city is almoft circular, and has been fortified all round, having a large caflle on one fide. Tho' fo large a city, it has not what one can properly call a river-; but it is water'd by two currents, to each of which they give the name of Navilcj one of them furrounds the outfide, the other runs concentrical, within the town. As thefe were brought thither by art, fo they are not very large, but, in the manner they are difpos'd, they do very well anfwer the conveniency of the place, efpecially that within the town. The great church, and the chief plice of the tradefmen, [Piazza de* Mercanti] are much about the centre of the city ; as if at the placing them they had in view the equal conveni- ency of all the furrounding inhabitants, both with regard to their fpiritual and temporal concerns. The ftreets are generally broader than what are ufually found ■in the cities of Italy. The houfes are not very fine on the out- fide ; nor are the people fo fond of giving the better fort of them the title of Palazzo, as in other parts of Italy. The gover- nor's houfe is indeed difcinguifli'd by that name; tho' it has little title to it for any beauty on its outiide ; but it is very large, and has fome good apartments. In one part of it are held the tribunals of jullice. His excellency gives audience as a prince, (landing. Count Coloredo was governor when we were there. He receiv'd my lord Parker with a great deal of civility and refpedl; invited his lordfliip and me to dinner, and entertain'd us with great courtefy and freedom. In the Archi-Vefcovato, where the cardinal archbifhop lives, there is one very handfome court ; a doable portico going round, Doric and Ionic, with the Tufcan charge of Ruftic. It was built by S. Carlo Borrhomeo when he was archbifhop. From this palace there is a palfage under the flreet, to the dome, whither S. Carlo us'd to go in the night to pray. That faint is now had in fuch veneration at Milan, that he ieems to have quite eclipfed S. Ambrofe, who ufed to be the principal and favourite faint there. Some M I L A N. 461 Some few of the principal houfcs have haiidfome fronts; auci many others, which want that advantage, arc very handfomc within, and have line apartments; and their portcflbrs arc courteous. The churches are feveral of them fine enough ; fome of them fronted with white marble, and in a good tailc of architcdurc ; but now and then a little over-charged with ornaments. The famous Dome, lb much talk'd of, difappoints one a little Dome, at full fight, the front being not half finilli'd, and the floor within, above half way up the great nave, being yet only pav'd with brick ; and women arc allow'd to have (lalls, and fell fruit there. A great deal of the reft of the outfide is yet unfinirti'd too; tho' it was begun to be built anno 1387, which is above three hundred and thirty years fincc. Antonio Homodei was the architedlof it ; as I found by a medaglion of him in white marble among other ornaments, at the tt p of the church. The architcdure is Gothick, but as rich and fine of the kind as can well be. It is all white marble within and without; but dirt and finoke iiave pretty much chang'd its colour in the older parts: and for ornaments, it is indeed furprifing. Bcfides above two hundred ftatues of white marble, fome of them very good, which I counted, larger than the life, that go round the two fides and the eafl: end, there are leflcr ones almoft innume- rable, about the windows and other parts ; they are in one re- fped literally fo, there being great numbers of them hid behind other ornaments, and clofcted up in niches, fome in perfed cages, of what we call tabernacle-work: there arc a multitude which cannot be fcen at all, without going up to the leads of the fide-ilks ; and there you have them peeping out of every corner bv the windows and buttrefles, together with other orna- ments of baflb- relievo figures and foliage, perfec'lly curious in their kind, and finer (I think) than any below ; as if they meant particularly to reward the pains of thofc who .Oiould come up fo hii^h to fee them. Befides what is already I'poke of, there arc a great many large Cariatldef, and a world of figures in grotef- que attitudes, reprcfcnting dragons, and I know not how many forts of chimerical fancies, about the watcr-fpouts and other parts. \'0L. ir. N The 462 M I L A N*. The top is all to be cover'd (but who knows when ?) with white nrjarble : a good deal is done ; tho' it feems but little, when- compar'd with what flill remains to be done. The new marble covering is of large flat ftones, about three inches thick ; the joints are not covered, but well cemented to- gether, with a mixture of pitch, oil, and pounded marble, and. there is a narrow border left round the edge of each ftone, whereby the joint becomes the higheft part ; this is to prevent the wet from refling there. And as this marble covering can- jiot fo well conform with the fliape of the feveral vaults which form the roof of the church, the outfides of the vaults are rai- fed with brick, to bring the work to an even Hope, or hanging level, at the furface ; by which means there is a very unequal preflure, there being a vaft thicknefs of bricks in the lower parts', and by a gradual diminution they end in nothing at the top. Count Forieri, a nobleman of Milan, a great virtuofi, {hew'J' us one day two old original defigns of the architedf [Homodei] for the front; but they have neither of them been follow'd in the work itfelf; and the later directors of it have ft u died a re- j^nement in the tafte of architedture, by making the pilafters-, . door-cafes, and fuch window-cafes as are done, fomewhat in the Greek way inftead of Gothick: but it feems not to have fo good an efFedl as they propos'd ; for the work is now not of a. piece; this is, 'varias inducer e for mas, the very thing that Ho- race v/arns eompofers of all kinds to avoid. There are fome- good alto-relievo's on the front, by Jo. Pet. Lafanius : birt they have left more than half of it unfiniflied, ('tis above a hun'- dred years, they fay, that it has not been toueh'd) and are at workon other parts, which they go on with in theGothick way, fuitable to the reft ; but in a very flow manner; which they are not without their reafons for. All the Ave gates are finifliedi, and two windows on the left hand of the entrance. The front they give in the print oi this church is all imagi- nary ; it is what never was there ; and never is like to be there, fince they have now changed the defign of it. The infidc puts one a good deal in mind of Weftminifer abbey, e.xcept that this has five ifles. The outfide of the choir is fct round with alto- relievo's of white marble, fcripture ftories ; by Andr. Bif£. Thcinfide, over theftalls of the canons, is adorned with mezo- relievo'st> M I L A N. 46? r«lievo's in wood, of the life and miracles of S. Anibrofc They have taken care particularly to rcprdfcnt his expiilfion of Theodofius out of the church, the emperor's lubmifi'ion at his feet, and re-admiflion tht-rcupon. Tiic gates, which upon thatoccafion he fliutagairilt the emperor, theyflicw'd us at an- other church, built (as they iay) by S. Ambrofe, and fincc dedi- cated to him. So much of the floor as is pav'd with marble, is indeed very fine. More than half of the whole church is done ; but they do not go on with it now, nor have they in the me- mory of any man living. The capitals of the columns are fct round with niches of fpired tabernaclc-work, and many of them are fill'd with ftatues. The whole number within and without the church is faid to be four thoufand four hundred ; and they arc ftill making new one? to fupply the vacaiit niches. The mod celebrated of all is one of S. Bartholomew, which was once on the outfide, but is now plac'd on a pedcflal within the church. It is indeed a fine piece of fculpture, the mufclcs all firmly cxprefs'd ; for the faint is intirely itript of his flcin, which is llung as a loofc drapery over fomc parts of him. Marco Ferrerio, called Agratc, was the author cf it; and they have written under it, Non vie Prasi teles, fed Marcus finx'it j^ grains. Over the choir, high in the roof, is preferved what they fay is a nail of the crof;, in a cafe of cryftal, plac'd in the center of a fun of gilt metal, with angels of the fame material among the rays; fonie with veilcls of incenfe ; others, with the other inft{ uments cf the pafTion. Under the choir is a grotta-chapcl, where arc dcpofitod the rclicks of fome martyrs. Lamps are continually burning there. But the mort precious relique of that kind is the body of S. Carlo, which is kept with great veneration in another fubterran^ous chapel which has a coni- munication with that laft mentioned. In the church, juft un- der the cupola, there is an opening thro' the floor into this cliapcl; the opening is covcr'd with a grate of wire, and has c parapet-wall round it, as if it were a well ; it is all furround- ed wiih great filver lamps, and has a canopy over it, hanging from the crown of the cupola : the ordinary one is changed N 2 ' for 4(54 MILAN. for a very rich one, on the feaft-day of the faint. Whenever I came into the church, I always found people at their prayers before thefhrine of the faint; and I obferv'd upon the wire- work, which covers the opening, feveral fmall pieces of money thrown there by the devotees ; which I was told is their offering towards fupplying the lamps with oil. The windows of the church arc moft of them of flrain'd glafs, like thofe of King's College chapel in Cambridge. This church is not incrufted, or cafed, as the moft ufual way is, but built with folid marble; except that there is feme brick-work in the middle of the very thickeft walls, as we faw in feveral of the unfinilhed parts, when we were going up to the top of the church; but there too the marble was of a very confiderable thicknefs and ftrength. By I know not what fort of computation they reckon that the ex- pence of the fabrick amounts to two Bajocs, that is, about a penny farthing Englifh per ounce. I have been the more particular in my account of this churchy becaufe it is fo much talk'd of, and from which I had fuch ex- pcdtations; fuch as were indeed baulk'd in fome refpedls ; but> at leaft anfwer'd, if not exceeded in others. The meafures of it are feen in the prints. Ch. s. lau- xhe church of S. Laurence is a fine ftruflure, not large, of an oftagonal figure. Juft before it ftands a row of fixteen noble antique pillars, Corinthian, fluted. I could not be certainly in- formed what they are the remains of; nor does father Montr faucon, who mentions them in his Italian Diary, fay anything to that matter. At one end of them is an antique infcription, but it gives no light as to the flrudture of thefe pillars ; unlefs (poffibly) a guefs about what time they were ercded : but that is very uncertain, for the infcription might very likely be brought thither from fome other place. The infcription is to Lucius Aurelius Verus ; it contains nothing more than his titles, and genealogy as far as Nerva. I tranfcrib'd it, but finding it pub- lifh'd by Montfaucon, I omit it here. Color.na In- Near this is the Colonna Infame, a pillar erecfled in the place where ftood the fhop of a barber- furgeon, who in the time of a plague, with other confpirators, dellroyed many people with poifonous ointments. It is no more than a plain Tufcan pillar sreded on a pedeltal, with a ball on the top of the pillar ; on 2 onei lence, fame, M I L A N. 465 one iide of the pHlar is cut COLONNA INFAME. There Is an infcription infcrted in a wall jull by it, lotting furiU the crime and pnnirtjment of the confpirators. The inilriptiou is pub- lidi'd by Mr. Addifon. Tlie church of S. P.ml has a rich marble front, adorned with Ch. s. P^u.'. two orders of architediirc; the firft Doric, the ftrcond Corin- thian ; which is an unufual tranfition : there is no frieze in the fecond order; the dentellc, or dcnticuli, are immediately above the architrave. In the church of S. Euftergio they (liew the tomb where what S- Eufter^jio. they call the three kings, the Magi, who came to worfliip our Saviour, thcv fay, once lay ; with the liar in relievo on its co- ver : and at the fame time bewail their being tranfportcd to Co- logne by Federico Barbaroffa, the Innumano Fcc!:rico (as they call him) when he laid wafte their city with fire and fword. In the fame church tliey Ihew the chapel and fepulchre of S. Peter Martyr, with fo(ne of S. Tho. Aquinas's poetry upoa him, when he vifited his tomb. Prceco, lucerna, ftigil, Chrijliy populi, fidciquc Hicfikt, hie tegitur, jacet hie fnaBatus iniquh The monkifli conceit in thefe lines requires fomewhat of a- fuitabJe turn in the tranflation. The voice, the light, the cavalier. Of Chrift, men, and faith Roman, Is dumb, is out, is lying here, Butcher'd as e'er was no man. The occafion and manner of his death were mention'd, when I Ipokeofthefine pidure of Titian at Venice, which rcprefcnts if. In the church of S. Nazaro 1 obferv'd an epitaph which is S. Niziro^ upon the tomb of Trivulcio, a brave and very adivc general; but, to one that knew nothing of his character, would fcem to have an air of ridicule upon his being rcftlcfs and troublefome ; and it is not impoffiblc but fomething of that fort might be intended by the pcrfon who wrote it; fince Trivulcio was a Milanefe, and, af- ter having beenbanifh'd from Milan, ferv'd the French king, and was 466 MILAN. was by him made governor of Milan; and therefore the more a6live he was, might polTibly be fo much the more troublefomc to the people of Milaa, and hated by them. The epitaph is as follows : JO. JACOBVS MAGNVS TRIVLTIVS ANTONII FILIVS Q.VI NVNQ\^AM QVIEVIT Q.VIE6CIT. TACE ! " The great Jo. Jac. Trivultius, fon of Antonius, " Who never refled before, is now at reft. Hufli ! Conv. S. Am- Ambrofian li The convent of S. Ambrofe is large and fine ; it has two fpacious courts, and a gallery of a hundred and fixty-five paces long. The prior of this convent is a great virtuofi ; he fhew'd us .the library himfelf, which is finely adorn'd : I believe there are as many pidlures, and other curiofities, as there are books; tho'thefe are very numerous too. A fine marble ilair-cafe leads up to it. The convent of the Olivetans is very fine too, and in aplea- fant airy fituation. Thefe monks feem too well provided for, to trouble their heads much about ftudy. They were adjufting their library when we came to fee it, (perhaps difpofing fome new scquifition ;) there were two of them at it, an old friar and a young one; they had got a book between them, which they knew not what to make of, or where to put it ; whether to the Greek or Hebrew clafs : -I could hear them at it, one faying, J^ Greco, [It is Greek] ; the other. Mi pare Ebreo, [It feems to me to be Hebrew :] the firft: again, E Greco, ficuro c Greco. I ventur'd to join myfelf to them, and bcg'd the favour of feeing the hook. It prov'd to be the Old Tertament in Hebrew ; and 1 happen'd to have fo much of the language as to read them the firft verfe. Irepented afterward I had not given them Englhh G! fir, it fays the old gen- s Hebrew ; " and for Hebrew ; it had done full as well tleman, Sigiiorji, e Hebrco. " Yes, order'd it to the Hebrew clals. So many accounts have been given of the famous Am- brofian library, that I fhall fay little of it : they told us they had thirty-five thoufand printed books, and above fourteen thoufand maniiicripts. They have pidlures of a great many learned per- fonSe M I L A N. i,('j fans, which go by way of Jriezc round the upper part, and nmong the rdl, our fir Thonuis Marc, Another they ihcw'd us of a lady (I think a Venetian) who was perfcft millrcfs of fcven languages, and a great proficient in feveral parts of learn- ing. They fticw'd us feveral nianufcripts, which they look'd upon to becurious. A m.inufcTiptofNicoladeLyra, being acom- ment on the Old Teftament, with limnings. Among the aninuls atthe creation we found a fphinx, a mermaid, and a centaur. A mod: beautiful MS. of paitof the Old Tcflamcnt, in He- brew, beginning with Jofiuia, faid to be one of the moft anticiic Hebrew manufcripts now in being. Alfo, A MS. of a letter from the Sultan * to Pope Innocent IX. • B.j.Tzer. anno J 400 and odd, in Greek, with a Latin tranfliition. It was written upon account of that fiiltan's brother, who was Bed info Italy. It contains ptrfuafions to prevail with the pope to deli- ver him up : he likewife threatens to invade Italy if he did net. Along with it was ftnt the Ipear wt.erevvith cur Saviour \va<; pierced, as they fay. There are very refpe(5tful exprclhons to- wards our Saviour in the letter. They Ihew'd us part of the thumb of a flatue of S. Carlo; it was two foot five inches and a half round; the nail was five inches and a half deep ; what is become of the reft of the (latue, I know not. There are feveral relicks of S. Carlo, which may be believ'd authentitk, he iiav- ing liv'd fo lately (comparatively) in that city; and been fo highly reverenc'd in his life-time, as well as ador'd fince. We faw the heads of his Quadragefimal and other lermons in his own hand-writing, which being branch'd out intodivifions, he calls at //ores. From thefe heads thus written down, lie made his difcourfes, and enlarged upon them extempore. As S. Carlo is held in the higheft efteem at Mdan upon tlic account of his piety, fo is Leonardo da Vinci upon account of his fkill in arts and fciences. His paintings are efteem'd there at Icill equal to Raphael's; and his twelve volumes of mecha- nical defigns, which they priferve in an apartment near the library, almo(l:v\ith veneration, are held ineltimable. Thi^y were given to the library by count Galeaz Arconato, and recei- ved with an unparallcl'd foleninity. The donation was regi- fter'd in great form, in prelcnceof the conic rvators of the libra- ry, the lyndic and notary, and a lolema meflagc of thanks was. 468 - M I L A N. was fent to the count ; the form of which Is alfo regifter'd among their archives. A large infcription in marble over the place where the volumes are kept, fets forth that the king of •England [James I. ] had offer'd the count three thoufand piftoles for one of the volumes, which he, regio animo, refufed. There is likewife regifter'd an affidavit made by an agent of the count, of the reality of fuch offer, by James king of England, and of letters from the earl of Arundel, and of other preffing in- •ftances, to have obtain'd the book upon any terms. A great deal more formality there was in the matter, which I forbear troubling the reader with. I muft not enter into the other drawings or paintings here, which are very numerous, and many of them admirably good. But I can't omit the ritratto of a friar, by Fede di Galitia, a girl of eighteen, very finely done, with a wonderful expreflion of nature. * A fort of They fhew'd us fome excellent Caricatura's * done by her ^'■°^'jP^g^°^" with a pen ; and otheis by Leonardo, admirable. There is, at geratin'g or onc of the entrances into this library, a palm-tree curioufly over-charging ^of^e in copper, with the dates upon it. There is alfo an an- Cures!' tique infcription, .^SCVLAPIO ET HYGIEI^. •Hofpitel. The Swifs College, the Seminary, and the Great Hofpital, are all handfome ftruduresj the laft mention'd is vaftly large. Befides the great court, which is encompafs'd with a double por- tico one over another, there are eight leffer ones. There are three and twenty galleries, with beds all along, for the fick, the larhe, and the wounded 9 and where the gal- leries crofs one another, there is an altar placed, fo that the fick may fee from their beds the elevation of the hoft. Befides the fick, lame and wounded, they receive infants from five to fix hundred generally in a year : there were three taken in the night before v/e came to fee it. The boys are maintain'd here till the age of fourteen, the girls as long as they live, if they pleafe : when they become marriageable, a portion is gi- ven with fuch as chufe to marry ; others are put into convents; thofe vi'ho chufe to ftay, attend the fick, and ferve in the feveral offices. Such women with child as defire it, are receiv'd there to be deliver'd. They have a good fpeciary or difpenfary, fur- nilhed with excellent drugs of all forts ; and a cloylfer lying open M I L A N. 46^ open to the garden, in one of the courts, for placing their rtills and other utcnfils. There were about nin'.- hundred invahds when we were there. They told us the annuil income is about a hundred thoufand crowns. Ten thoufand Lire (about two thouland five hundred pounds fterling) were not long fmce be- queathed to it by a charcoal-merchant. Ail provifions coming thither arc free from tax or toll. It is placed juit by the fide of one of the naviles, out of which there is not only water conveyed to all the cffices with great convenience, but likewifc a ftream conftantly running to receive and carrvuJFall the filth. The Lazaretto, a little way out of town, is a receptacle for Lwarcuo. people fick of the plague, or other infedious di(tempers. This confills only of one vail: fquare, with a portico all along each fide, before the chambers, and a chupel in the midft of the fquare. There are in the whole compafs three hundred hxty-fix chambers. They fliewed us fome fort of a mark in one of the pillars, which, they fay, was a plague-fore fixed there by S. Carlo ; and from which there is always an ouzing before the beginning of a plr.gue. Crcdat, &c. In many of the publick parts of the city there are devotional pillars creded, (I think) about fixty in number, at the fcveral places where S. Carlo, in his procefl'ions during the plague, made his ftands, and faid mafs. The callle, or citadel, has been dcfcribed by fcveral. I will Cafllc. only mention a fcandalous cuftom of the officers there, who take from the poor foldier that goes about to ihew it, whatever gratuity is given him. If he conceals any part ol ir, a hundred baltinadocs is his reward : this the fellow told us. The nobility, in their turns, keep continual guard in pcrfon at the gates, in time of war or plague, Guorra dd ciclo ddla terra, as faid the facetious count Forieri. Thofe of fuch a difiridt keep at fuch a gate, and the fcveral diftridls or wards in the city are dillinguillied by the names of the gates. At the age of fixtv they are emeriti, exempt from attendance. There were, when we were in Milan, three entire galleries of piclures (feveral of them very fine) to be fold; they were General Martini's, General Arch's, and Count Airoldi's. The Vol. II. O firii 470 Cafa Dad a. Cafencdi. M r L A N. firft of thefe has been fince fold, and fome of the pieces brought into England. There is a fine gallery of pictures at the Archi'vefcoiiato [arch- bifhop's palace ;] feveral very good pieces at the Cafa Crevelli, [fine Borgognones :] at Marchefe Corbella's, Count Archinta's> Secretary Maggi's, Signor Dada's, Capt. Porta's, and others. ■ I was particularly pleafed with a Holy Family of Andrea del Sarta, at Signor Dada's, equal almoft to any thing I have feen ; there is the grace of Raphael, with the fweet natural eafinefs of Coreggio ; and the utmoft delicacy, with fuitable force of expreflion ; particularly in the countenances of the Madonna , and Bambino: flie inclines her head downwards, towards S.John; . the Bambino is ftanding, and fhe holds him with her left hand under his arm : another figure is juft above the S. John ; it is young, and feems intended for an angel : there is another an- gel, at a very great diftance, in the air. On the two fides of this picfture hang a S. John of H. Caracci, and a Holy Family of Titian, his own ritratt being in the place of S. Jofeph. And who would expedl to fee Han. Caracci and Titian outshone by A. del Sarta ? But, I had almoft faid, fo it is. The perfon wh© attended us here, would take no money : Rata avis, in Italy. Count Archinta is a grandee of Spain, and has an uncle a cardinal. He has a very handfome library: in the cabinet within it, is a fine little piece of Coreggio, the upper part of three young girls naked : it is not much finiflied, but left with a fpirit. It has been damaged. He has two large and fine pieces of Jul. Ca3f. Procaccini j a very bold free manner ; one of them is the Slaughter of the Innocents j there is in it a mother hold- ing up her child, with arms flretched out. It is done with a vaft fpirit, but is unfiniHied. I dare not fay much to the Titians and Raphaels which they (liew here in confiderable numbers. The count is a very obliging courteous perfon. The Marquis Cafenedi, the fon, has a room entirely furniihed with draw- ings; many very good ; fome of Raphael, the Caracci, And. del Sarta, Pietro da Cartona, &c. alfo of the Procacxini Camillo, Jul. Caefar, and Hercules, with feveral others of the Milanefe fchool : But thofe which are moft admirable in this colledlion, are cartones of Leonardo da Vinci,, done in chalks, but: railbd a little. MILAN. 47» a little higher with other crayons : they arc fo excellent, that Raphael, as they affirm there, copied them all. He has cer- tainly taken the countenance of one of them in his Transfigura- tion-piece J it is the figure below the mount, which holds the pofll-ffcd boy ; at leaft the one put me very much in mind of the other. Eleven of them arc defigns of all the heads, and fome of the hands, which Leonardo put into his cekbrated piece of the Laft Supper painted by him in frefco in the refec- tory of the Gratie, which is now in a manner fpoiled. Two of thefe cartones contain two heads a-piece ; fo that in the ele- ven cartones are drawings of thirteen heads. The relt of his are as follows, A ritratt of a Duchefs of Milan [SforzaJ. Another ritratt profile, without hands. An old man refting his cheek on his left hand. A Holy Family, the fame which is painted in oil in the fa- crirty of S. Celfus. A Lcda ftanding *, naked, with Cupids in one of the cor- ners at the bottom. All thefe are by Leonardo da Vinci, and are as big as the life, There is likewife, in the fame room, a drawing faid to be of Raphael, and another of And. del Sarta. Tnefe drawings of Leonardo da Vinci, and the two lail: men- tioned, were purchafed together by the marquis for about three huntUed pilloles, a year before we faw them, or thereabouts, of Count Alconati, defcendant of him that gave the volumes to the Ambrofian Library. The marquis of Cafenedi, the father, who is general of the artillery, has likewife fome good paintings. Count Forieri has a very numerous colle>flion of medals, in- Cafa Forieri. taglio's, cameo's, and drawings; fome of Pictro da Cortona : the fineft I have I'ccn of his. The canon Settala's colle(flion has been fo long famous, ihatScttda. it has been defcribed by many; 'tis Hill kept together, and flicwn, '^ formerly. It feems as thoui;h a collcOition in Italy were not LlVeemed complcat without a bafiliili. Wc law llveral, artificial as 'tis faid, trufTed up out of fome fort of filh, which they make to look fierce enough, I took a Iketch of what they call one, in • I think there ii at Kenfington, or in fome of the king's coiutt, one painted much in the fame attitude. O 2 this 472 MILAN. this colledion ; alio of an embryo, one head with two bodies, kept in fpirits of wine; the firft is reprelented in the plate which faces page 26. Ch. S. Seba-. The church of S. Sebaflian, a rotonda, belongs to a confra- '''*"■ ternity for the dead. There are ritratts of fome of the brother- hood, with fkeletons by them in feveral attitudes : one of. them has his own head fet on the fhoulders of a fl-celeton, as (hewing how thoroughly he interefted himfelf in the affair of the dead, reprefenting himfelf as one of them. There is another confraternity at S. Giovanni delle Cafe Rotte, who attend criminals to execution ; bring their bodies back, and bury them ; and employ people to gather alms to fay mafTes for their fouls. On Maundy Thurfday, we faw the then archbifliop of Mi- Ian, Cardinal Odifchalchi, brother to the Duke Di Bracciano, wa{h the feet of twelve poor men. He was girt with a towel, his mitre on his head. He vvaflied, wiped, and kiffed the foot of each. He did not ufe the towel he was girt with, each of the men having one given them, which the cardinal made ufe of. An anthem was fung while the ceremony was performing : when that was done, they went down to another hall to dinner, where they late, three at each table. They had fourteen feveral plates to each, including fallad, fruit, &c. all meagre. What they did not eat they carried away, each of them having a bafket provided for him for that purpole. They were ferved by the cardinal, and the canons of the dome, and had a fcrmon on humility preached to them while they fate at meat ; it continued all dinner-time: Nee dum finitiis •■, for, when they had done, the cardinal beckon'd to the preacher to leave off, then faid grace, and fo put an end to that part of the ceremony. They had each a coat given them of a white fort of cloth, which they came clothed with, and a round cap of the fame; and after grace was faid, a pretty boy, nephew to the cardinal, went about with one ot the canon?, and diftributed to each of them . a Philip, which is about 4 s. i o d. Englifli. Conv.S. Ra- On Good Friday we went to the convent of S. Radegunda, degunda. where we heard an excellent chorus of the nuns, at the receiv- ing of the crucifix : they fung it on their knees at the entrance within the convent, while a prieil held the crucifix at the door. MILAN. 473 door. The nuns had lighted tapers in their hnnf^^ and wore black tranfparont veils. The abbeCs took the cniiihx- ; ami the fell followed in proccllion into their choir behind the church. Here they lung their hymns and anthein<;, which we heard in the church. Among the reft, the admirable (iuinfana iigna- liz'd herCelf, who has been famous above thefe thirty years ; and continues (till to charm, unfcen. Two other nuns in this convent, Palazza and Doria, are Ukcwife much eftecmed fur. their voices, and fine manner of finging. On the fame day we faw at the church of S. Angelo, a re- Ch. S. Ange. prefenration of Mount Calvary; our Savicjur and the two'"" Thieves on three croHcs, carved in wood, and painted, as big as the life J the. Bled'ed Virgin, S. John, 6cc. (luod below the crofs, and palm-trees were fct round the top of the mount. In the afternoon the Chrilt was taken down from the crofs ; the body was fo contrived with joints to the fcveral limbs, that as foon as it was onnailed, the head and all the parts hung quite lool'e, to reprefent the circumftances of the paliion in the moft lively manner they could to the people. I have been infonn'd that the fame pracftice is frequent in the Greek church too. In the procefilons upon this folemnity, they carry the feveral inftruments, and other things mentioned in the llory of the Paffion, or fuppofed to attend it. There were a great many that carried crortcs : the ladders, nails, pincers, the pillar, and fcourge^, the coat without feam, dice, fpear, and fpunp;e, were carried by others : fome of them had crowns of thorns on their heads, chains about their middle, and ropes about their necks. The dead body was carried along alter them, un- der a canopy, and the Blefled Virgin in wax as mourning over it (the forrow very well exprclled) : at^d fulcmn mournful mu- fick played all the while. No bells or clocks muft be heard from Good Friday morn, till next morning; thereby intending to exprefs fomewhat of the folemn filence all nature was fuppofed to be in at the paf- lion of our Lord, Some of the people in Milan, particularly thofe in oflicc5, continue the Spani(h drefs, as they do at Naples. About a mile out of one of the gates of Milan [Porta Co- Villa Simo- mafinal is the Villa Simotietta, wlure is the Lcho fo much g^^; talked 474 MILAN. talked of. The report of a piftol-fliot off is repeated Co as to be perceived at leaft fixty tinies, all along diminifliing gradually. The repetitions are very quick, not above half a fecond afun- der, fo that it does not fo well return words of many fyllables. A diffyllable will be repeated fo as to be diftinguiflied two or three times -, but after, goes all confufed. A nionofyllable is diftinguifhed longer, but the vowel then only prevails ; fo that after a few repetitions, you hear nothing but that. A fingle vowel, pronounced with a fpirit, [as /la] makes a perfedl laugh, diminithing by degrees, 'till the airy nymph can hold it out no longer. The effedl is bell when the air is cleareft j it is produced only from one particular Nation, a v^indow in one of the wings at the back of the houfe, the voice or piftol being directed to the oppofite wingj and from thence no doubt it is that the found firil: refledls, and fo is reverberated backwards and for- wards between the two wings : for the very quick return of the found lliews that it is reverberated by fomething very near; whereas all is plain about the houle, nor is there any rock, wood, building, or other objedt to be feen, capable of return- ing the echo, except llich as are at vaftly too great a dillance to be taken into confideration with refpedl to this effedt. And the reverberation between the two wings of the houfe is the better performed, becaufe in one of them there is never a windov/, but all the upper part of the building is quite plain and even ; and in the other, tliere is only that one window at which we make the obfervation, fo that none of the found is loft : below, there is a portico, which goes along both the wings, and the body of the houfe ; and this, as well as the wall of the houfe, father Kircher thinks may help to make the found fomething the louder. A ftone terrace paffes along the houfe, and wings, over the portico, which may pofllbly help further. The Italians are apt to make miracles of every thing [father Kircher particularly gives this Echo the epithets of ;///V/^t'« and porteutojli^ ; and travellers can hardly avoid going to fee what is much talked of, tho' fometimes they find little in it. And I doubt not but fuch an echo, were it worth the while, might eafily be made any- where; and a better in one refpedl, if the .wings were placed further afunder; for then the refledtions would I P A V I A. 475 would not be fo quick, and confequcntlv would he more dif- tinift, tho' not (b many. The boulf ftands on a lovely plain, and did formerly belong to the dukes of Milan; now to Count Simonetta. P A V I A. T^ R O M Milan wc went to fee Pavia (about two ports from •*■ thence), and the fine church and convent of the Carthu- fians a little (bort of it. The front of this church is as richly adorned in the Gotbick Cannula. o. way as is poffihle to imagine. The minute nicety of the c^rv'd work, the almoft infinite variety of figures, Scripture ftories, &c. the trophies, and a multitude of other ornaments, all in white marble, are indeed furprizing. There are feme medag- lionsof the Roman emperors, &c. brought out of the cabinet of Duke Galea-zi, who built the cburcli. Within the church is a vaft variety of marble ornaments, yet the pillars are not what is ftridtly marble, tho' a good deal refembling it, being of a hard ftone, which they particularly call pictra dura. One ol" the chief ornaments is the noble depcfitum of the dukeof Gale- azzi jufi: mentioned. Bcfides the rich great altar, and the al- tars of S. Bruno, and of the relicks, which are one at one end of the crofs illc, and the other at the other, there are fcven al- tars more along each fide of the church, in fo many very hand- fome chapels. In all thofe altars, the fore-part of each, uhidi they call ihc pallio, is cither of rich inlaid work of fine Aonc, [pietre comi)h'l[e\ or bafib-relicvo of white marble. The ancona, or altar-piece of each, is a fine painting, by fome good mafler, in oil J and the reft of the chapel is done all over in frcfco. In one of tbefe dispels is an excellent Madonna of Pictro Ptru- gino, a mod beautiful countenance. The great nave is fepa- latcd from the crofs-ifle by fine brafs gates of picro'd-wcrk, and all the fide-chapels are fcparated from the great nave by brafs and iron-work finely wrought. This church is kept pcr- fc(ft!y clean, which cannot be faid of fome churches in Italy, that are very fine in other rcfpcdt. There is in this convent an old copy of Leonardo da Vinci's Laft Supper, in oil, as largo as the 'original, which is now ^ become Boirhoineo. 476 P A V I A. become the more valuable, by the other's being (o much pe- ridied. Pavia is now more remarkable as an unlverfity, than as a city ; and, what is not common in the univcrfuies of Italy, has feveral colleges, for the lodging and entertainment of the fcholars. Collegio That of Borrhomeo is the chief; which is a fine fliruflure. The great court is encompaflcd with a double portico, Doric and Ionic ; the pillars which fupport the portico's Handing two and two between the arches : and there is a handfome garden behind it. In the refedory, there is a pulpir, where they read fome led:ure while the lludents are at dinner ; on this was infcribed, Non in fob pane, &c. " Not by bread alone," .&c. The falt-fellers on the tables, h'^d /lumilitas, the motto of S. Carlo, ingraved on them, and on the lalt was defcribed the fign of the crofs. There is a great hall finely painted by Fed. Zuccaro, <tnno<et. 65. In one part we law S. Carlo's father and mother painted, and himfelf an infant ; and were told that he would Yi&vtr fuck on faji-dayi ; fo early did he begin to conform with •the hules of holy church ! Before the college Ghifleri is placed a ftatue of pope Pius ■the Fifth. In the dome of this city they have got zfpina fanta, one of • the thorns (as they pretend) with which our Saviour was crowned ; 'tis finely fet round with gilt rays, which come from a hollow above, where the real light is trani'mitted thro' yellow glafs. The equeftral llatue of copper before the dome, fome call by one name, fome by another; Antoninus Pius, Conftantine, .&c. To me it feeiiied moft like the reprefentations we have of M. Aurelius ; the attitude is much the fame with that of the fame emperor in the Capitol; which might poflibly in- cline me to fancy a refemblance between the llatutrs in other relpedts : but I guarded againll that, when I confitlered the coun- tenance; and thought the refemblance of this, to that in the Capitol, fuch, that 1 liiould have judged it to be made for the fame perfon, tho' the attitude had been wholly different. As I remember, there is a dog catching with his moulh at the foot of the horfe. ]n P A V I A. In the cluirch of S. Peter is the tomb of Boctius, who is i faint among tliem, under the name of S. Scvcrino, from his other name, Scverinus. The tomb is very plain, and has the following infcription, which is as plain : Sc'Vi'ririi Bo'c'tii. Mtvonid is' Latia lingttd clariljhma, & qui Conjul cram, hie pcrii mi [jus in exilium. Ecquid mors rapuit ? frobitas me -cexit ad auras ; Et nunc Jama viget maxima, liiit opus. In Greek and Latin I did all furpafs ; Was conful ; dy'd in exile at this place. What has death feiz'd ? My virrue foars on high j My glory fpreads ; my work will never die. This faint has done a miracle, and a votum is hung on his tomb for it, with the figure of the toinb in it. They pre- tend, that when his head was cut off, he took it in his hand, and fet it on again ; and that, not having received the holy vi- aticum before his execution, he went to this church and com- municated ; and fo died. This ridiculous flory was told mc bv a young deacon of this church ; and he fhewed me an altar, over which was painted the faint communicating, with the mark round his neck. There is likewife in this church, as they fay, the body of S. Auguliine, inclofed in four cofhns, of marble, wood, lead, and filver, the lail next the body ; tho' his honorary tomb be in another church, jul^ by this, adorned with a multitude of figures. At the convent of the Zoccolanti wc faw a clock made by a father of the convent, then a mifiionary in China. It Ihewed the motion of the planets, and marked the days and hours fc- veral ways. A figure reprefenting Time l^ruck the quarters and hours. As loon as the hour \.as Ihuck, a tune followed, on a little organ behind, a different tune each hour; then the clock rtruck the hour again. They (hewed us a covered bridge over the Ticino. and told us, that at the great defeat of Francis the Firil, an arch of this Vol. II. P bridge 478 B E R G A M O. B R E S C I A. bridge was broken down, and the breach covered with parte- board, and dirt ftrewed over it, to entrap the French. Dolus an virtus quis in hojle requirat ? Upon our return from hence, we puri"ued our journey from Milan to Verona. At Vavero, two ports and a half from Milan, we pafled the. river Adda in a ferry to Canonica. About two miles further, we left the Milanefe, and entered the Venetian rtate. A port and a half more [from Vavero] brought us to Ber- gamo. BERGAMO. /^ U R way lay only through the fuburbs ; the city is half a ^^ mile higher up : the view of it at a diftance is very plea- fanf, with the houfes on hills round it, as about Florence. Two or three miles farther, we came to the bank of the ri- ver Seri, which we did not crofs over, but travelled for fome time along by the fide of it, having the river on our right hand,^ and a range of mountains,, which are flcirts of the Alps, on the left ; the road is very bad, but the ground on each fide rich, and finely planted. The vines here are carried rtrait up for about four foot j then the branches are laid almoft horizontal,, and rtretch a confiderable length to meet one another, and thero are tied together. BRESCIA. T^IVE ports from Bergamo brought us to Brefcia, which ■*- is a handfome, large, and populous city. It is governed by a Podefta, as all the confiderable towns in the Venetian rtate are. The fituation of this city is fomewhat like that of Bologna, having a verge of the Alps on one fide, and a vaft plain on the other, as we faw from the top of the caftle or citadel : the view of the dirtant country all round was extremely pleafant. There is a fine rich plain between this city and the foot of the Alps, befides the vart one on the other fide, where we faw Cre- mona at thirty miles diftance. From U R E S C I A. From this height we faw the whole city of Brcfci.* lyin:^ jiifl under us, in a figure ahnod iqiiare, the ciiilk- miking (inc\or- ner. The inhabitants compare it to a cloak fprcail, an.! the caftle to the neck-part: but, if futh a comparilbn mull be made, it would better fuit with Milan, which appron hcs niirc towards a round figure. We met with a Dutchman in the caftle that had been in England but fix month?, when King William came firft over, and in that time learnt Englifli per- feiftly, and retains it (tho' he has never been here lince) fo as to fpeak it very intelligibly ftill. By what I faw of the fire-arms in Brefcia, I think thofe of London outdo them as to their outward look ; but tluy talk much al' Itciliano of the temper of the barrels. There are abundance of people, in Brefcia particululy, as ir» all the towns near the Alps, with vaft fwellings or excrefcence's on their throats, which they calf g-o/i'/V; they are kippofed to be occafioncd by the waters which they drink, having a good deal of the melted fnows among them. A lump as big is one's fift is reckoned a moderate one. I have feen one as big as one's head, and have been told that there are perfons in Brefcia that have them reaching down to the middle of their ftom-^ch. I heard there of one woman who had (ttvcn about her throat, each as big as an ordinary cggj and of two men who have 'em behind, reaching to the middle of their fhoulders : thofe of the Idrgell fize they keep up with bandages. One, who In" acci- dent was ihot thro' his gofcia, was carried to the hofpir.I, had his wound cured, and the g^fciu went away. The ordin.-iry method whereby they endeavour the removing them, is to take powder of burnt fpunge with white wincj fome take it with vinegar, which is efteciiied more prevalent. I faw one woinan, who told me fhe had her's entirely removed by that means ; hut with many it fails. It fecms to be a miftake in thofe who write that they are efteemcd as ornaments. Thofe that have them are willing to make the heft of them ; but by the methods they ufe to remove them, 'tis plain they would rraher be rid of them. There are fome places indeed where they are fo general, that it is a rarity to fee one without thetn j and in fuch places they cannot be cfteemed (o great blemiflies, as clfcwhcre. I fpoke with one who lived in a town within the Alps, cnclofed P 2 with 471 ^So BRESCIA. with the mountains, who told me there are fcarce any there but have them, and feme vaftly large; and that when they fee one without them, he is fliewn as remarkable, Ecco ! Look, there goes one without a gofcia 1 We find by Juvenal that they were very frequent in the Alps in his time : ^is tumidum guttur miratur in Alpibus ? Who at fwol'n throats would wonder in the Alps ? I enquired whether they were painful ; he faid they gave no pain, but only an uneafinefs occafioned by the weight of thofe which were large and heavy ; and that they hinder the free breathing, in going up a hill, or ufing any extraordinary exer- cife. I afked. If there were a numbnefs in thofe parts ? He faid, No; but that there was the fame fenfibility and feeling in that part, notwithftanding the fwelling, as when it is not fwell'd at all. We fee as many of them in Milan, as in the towns nearer the Alps ; not that the natives are fo fubjedl to them, but great numbers of people come thither out of other towns, and ihe adjacent country. A countryman ufed to come fome- times on market-days to the Three Kings there, who had a, gofcia vartly large. lirefcia is faid to have in it a hundred thoufand fouls ; forty thoufand men that, in cafe of extremity, might be able to bear arms. In Bergamo, not above half fo many; tho' the diffe- rence in bignefs of each place (including the fuburbs of Ber- gamo) be nothing fb great as the difference in the numbers. Tiie reafon given for this is, that in Bergamo the meaner fort live hardly, upon piilknta, a coarfe fort of grain, mixed with water, with the addition fometimes of fome favoury oil; fo that many leave that place to go to Milan, and other places; which they do not who live in Brefcia. But all this was told me by a Brefcian. In Bergamo 1 might poflibly have heard another fliory ; for my friend exprcffed himfelf in fuch a man- ner as I thought plainly difcovered fome emulation between the Bergamotes and the Brefcians. In the old dome at Brefcia are two fine flatues of Alexander Vittoria : there is a new dome building, which they have been many years at work upon, and which will be a fine one when finifiied. la V E R O N A. 481 In the church of S. Aphra there is a chapel runiiihcd vvitli rchcks of 6. Judith and S. Julliaa : it lias a ibrt of window to it, where, inilcad of glafs, there is an iron plutf, with jiolcs in it J thro' fonic of which, at certain ftationij, you fcc'futnc glimpfcs of light ; which they would have you believe to be miraculous, afiirming, thit there is no natural caufe of li'^ht in the place; but it is a fufpicious fign, that no-body is aduMttcd to go in : luch as have been fo hardy as to venture, have al- ways died (they fay) before the year's end. In the fecond poll from Brellia, we palfcd thro' Donartio, a little walled town, and foon after that, thro' Defenzano, a tair and pleafant town by the fide of the great Lago di Guarda, the Benacus of the antients. This lake abounds with an exccllciu hlh they call carpione, in look and tarte much like a trout, not carp, as fome have written. We coalled along this lake, tho' not always very near it, for about eight miles, to Pclchiera, a fortified city. Not far from thence wo palled by ferry over the Mincio, which runs out of the lake, to Mantua, and fo into the Po. The ferry-man's houfe Hands on pells in the middle of the river, for equal convenience of hearing people that call on either lidc. We obferved a great ditfcrcncc as to the forwardncfs of the vines between Bergamo and Brelcia, and of thole between I3re- fcia and Verona ; the former were a great deal the forwarder. VERONA. IT is five ports and a half from Prcfci.i to Verona. The moll noted antiquity of this city is its amphitheatre, whole infide is the moll intire of any now in being. The \'cnetians have rellors.d luch of the feats as were ruinated, to the CL^ndi- tion they were antiently in; and continue to keep them in re- pair : on the outfide there went round fevcral porticoes, 01 c over another, and above them another order of work, a fort cf Attic, wherein were arches for the windows over the fevcral arches of the porticoes, tJ give light into the anjphithcatrc. above the feats which rofc as high as the bottom of that Attic ; for when the amphitheatre had its canvafs covering llreithcd over 4S= VERONA. over it, windows on the fides were necelTary. The oiitfide lliell, or outermofl: circle oi' piljflers and arches, is all deftroy- ed, except a little at one end, which contains the fpace of four windows or arches in breadth ; but by thefe remains one may form a perfedt idea of the whole outlide fhell of the amphi- theatre. The next circular row of arches and pilafters, which,' with thofe in the outer rtiell, formed the outmofl: porticoes or corridores round the amphitheatre, one over another, are flill remaining ; there are two heights of them. The fteps, or feats, which go quite round the area, are forty-four in number, now vifible above ground, as I counted them, tho' fome have mention'd them to be but forty-two. They there fliy, that fome more are buried within the ground ; but I cannot eafily believe it ; for the greateft height of any of the fteps, above that next below it, is not quite eighteen inches, and that which is now the lowed of thofe that are vifible is two foot and a half above the ground J and therefore I judge it to be the loweft of all, and that its height was much more than what we now fee of it, and that the relt is now buried within the ground; for when the am- phitheatre was made ufe of, the bottom ftep, or podium, on which the lowefl: rank of fpedators fet their feet, muft have been at a far greater height above the arena, than the other fteps or feats were one above another, that thofe that fate on the loweft feat might be out of the reach of the wild beads that were put to fight there. I would have had the fellow that attended us to have dug away fome of the earth, to try how it was within the ground, but he told me he durfl not, nor would the promife of a good gratuity induce him to venture. I mcafured feveral of the ileps, and found the height of them from fifteen to feven- teen inches; and the depth of the feat from two foot three to two foot fix inches: this difference of two or three inches in the heights of the upper fteps might poffibly be accidental; but that the height of the loweft, as it appears even above the ground, fliould exceed the height of any of the reft, a whole ibot and more, muft liave been with defign. In fome particular places the fteps or degrees are halved, for the eafier decending or afccnding between the lower and higher ranks of fttps or feats ; and therefore thofe halved fteps are indeed moft pro- perly to be called fteps, the reft were properly feats. This 1 amphi- VERONA. 4S3 amphitheatre is computed to have room to contiiri upwards of three and twenty thoul'und rpe(5tators to fit ccinmodioiilly up- on the feats ; that at Rome, eighty-five thcjufaiui : only two and forty ranks of feats, according to Carotti's computaiiun, (who is quoted as a mcafiirer and computer, both liy I'anvini and TorelH) would contain three and twenty thoufmd a hundred and eighty-four pcrfons, allowing a foot and a half to each pcr- fon. The foot of Verona is above an inch longer than ours. In the middle of the area is a deep hole, lil<.e a little well, where they told me was antieiitly fixed a great pole, or ma!t, to fupport the middle of the canvafs or filk covering, which was extended all over the top of the amphitheatre, to defend the people from the fun-beams. There went three galleries or corridores, round the area of the amphitheatre ; one is dc- flroycd by tJie ruin of the outward fliell, which formed one fide of it : the other two go under the ileps or feats, and are vault- ed in the top, but manv p.uts of them are now filled with rub- billi. There were palfages from one of thefe galleries to a.'i- other, and from the inncrmoft of them to the arena : 1 was in one of the galleries that remain, and obferved, that on the fide next the arena, were, here and there, palfages to go into the arena, and ftair-cafes to go up to the feats, and between thole are the dens, in fbme of which the wild beafis ufcd to be kept ; in others, the flaves, gladiators, and other combatants. I took a note in what order thefe entrances into the arena, ftair-cafes, and dens were difpofed, in one quarter, which I have given a fcheme of, and the fame order is obferved in the other quarters*. In thefe galleries, or corridores, are channels, • Here half* which pafs all along the middle of each of them, with crofs-cuts J^J^I^'f^^. from the outer gallery to the inner, and thence to the arena Jof a vicL'Tn one ufe of thefe was probably for the eafier cleaning the dens, ihe fame cor- and pafiages, and carrying off the filth ; and perhaps another [^Jj;^'^"'';^;''- ufe mi"-ht be, the bringing water into the arena for the nan- ihcws ho<v it machia^ov fea-fights, which they had at Rome in the =^mphi- 'PP;^;,;;;^'^; theatre, as well as in the llrudures made purpolcly for that kind fom"uch« of fliow : and it is probable they had the lame in the amphi- would come theatre here. The river Adige is near enough to fup-ly water ^"^J/" for that purpofe; and in (o noble a work it is hardly to be ima- would be omitted to m\kc it compleat. Thcf^ 4S4 VERONA. 'Thefe channels lie now quite open ; but it is moft likely that ^ntiently, when people were to pafs much thro' thefe galleries, they were covered ; except where ibme openings might poflibly be for the convenience of cleaning the dens, 6cc. The flair- cafes I have mentioned, led to fome of the lower rows of feats, on that fide of the gallery or corridore I was in, which is next the arena : between it and the next corridore were other Aair- cafes, which they went into out of that corridore or portico ; thefe went up to the upper portico, and to the upper ranks of feats J from thefe feveral flair-cafes they had entrances to the feats at feveral heights, and proper diftances, that thofe who were firll feated might be difturbed as little as polTible by thofe who came in after, and that the great numbers of people might not be confined to a few pafl-ages. The height of thefe en- trances cuts through four or five rows of feats ; they were called '■comitoria, as I mentioned when I fpoke of the amphitheatre at Rome, p. 350. Each order of people had a certain number of rowsafligned them for their proper feats ; the fenators had the loweft, as beft for feeing, being nearell: ; the knights the next above them ; after thefe were placed the citizens, and then the common people ; above all, the fervants had their flation. The length of the arena I found to be eighty of my paces, the breadth forty-fix j the more particular meafures, and general defcription of the whole, may be k^n in Defgodetz, Panvini, and Torelli. In a court which leads to the academy of belles-lettres, of fencing, and of mufick, (adjoining to which there is now built a new theatre for operas) the wall is fet full of antique infcrip- tions and baflb-relievo's. I obferved among them a votive in- Icription, which feems to have been made in the early ages of Chrilfianity. DEO MAG NO AETERN L . STATIVS DI •ferQVOD. ODORVS QV'OT * SE PRECIBVS COMPOTEM FECISSET V . S . L . M . Another JPa., .i mXKKZK AFAQ^Mii^rrMH AE APl£TOAHMOY ''] H ^ h N n % VERONA. 4«,5 Another there was to His, 6cc. ISIDI SERAPIDI LIBERO LIBERAE VOTQ SVSCEl'TO PRO S.^VTE SC/U^VLAE FUj S.VI. S . h . AI . Another J D. M. GENEROSO RETIARTO INViCTO PVGNARVM XXVII Oyi PVGNAVTT YIR [ILITER 'J * I guef^ It b thuj to be A Gentleman, very well verfcd in thefe matter?, inftcad of "'*" '^ ' [VIR] reads [VB,] and fuppofcs the whole word to have been ubiqiic or lubeiis. But I believe my reading is right, finding the fame in Torelli j who wrote near two' hundred years z^o, when the infcription mud have been plainer, in all probability, than it is now. Torelli does not give any fuppofuion how the reft of the word might have been. There is another fliort one, to a dcccas'd wife [or daughter.] HPAKAFIA MNA S-lyOS. XPHSTH XAIPE Among the ba (To- relievo's there is an Epulum Funebre [a Funeral Banquet] where both men and women are feaflin^, inlcribcd thus ; ETKAFA ArAGP-NOS rrVH AK APISTO.M1MOV. The daughter (I fuppofc) of Agathon. The women are not lying along as the men are, but fitting. Befidcs the dcftription of the cpuhtm itfelf, there is at the up' per part of the ftone a Doric entablature, and frontifpiece, or pediment ; and immediately under that (over the heads of the figures) are fome fort of utenfils ; one that feems to be a bnifh, another is a fort of cajetta, or caniftcr, another a drinking- VoL. 11. Q_ glaVj ^86 VERONA. glafs or cup, another a little bottle or vial, which may be ei- ther a guttus, or a lachrymatory ; fome others, which may be fome Ibrt of jftrigils, &c. There muft be a good deal of giiefs-work in this kind of things: a draught of the whole is here prefented. The baflb-relievo'S' and infcriptions were given to the academy by the Marq. Scipio Maffei. I was told there is an account of them all publiflied, or fooa to be fo, by that gentleman. Juft before the entrance into this .court is the Arfenal, a very fair Doric flrufture, begun in the year 1610, and finifli'd in the year following, as appears by the tvvo following in- fcriptions, which are fixed in the wall of one end of the building. The firft is this; DESIGNAVIT, A FVNDAMENTISQVE EXCITAVIT, EGREGIAM' PRAECLARI OPERIS MOLEM JOANNES MOCENICO P.P. MDCX. CONCILIO CVJVS ET SVASV EX S. C. VNIVERSA RESP. FIERI JVSSIT IN VARIOS MARTIS VSVS. The fecond, this ; SCIPIADVM VERA SOBOEES, HIER. CORNELIVS, NON EVER- SaE CARTHAGINIS GLORIAM, SED INCLYTAS AVORVM VIR- TVTES AEMVLATVS, PRAEFECTVRAM PRVDENTISSIME GE- RENS, MOLEM HANC VIX SOLO EMERGENTEM, ECCE IN QVAM AMPLITVDINEM EXTVLERIT. MDCXL The garden of count Giuflo is very pleafant, but nothing fo extraordinary as they would reprefent it there : it is chiefly remarkable for the great number of ftately cyprefs-trees, and for a terrace upon a confiderable eminence on the fide of a rock, from whence you have a fine profped: of the city : It put me in mind of that from the Pincian Mount at Rome. There is a chapel in the rock, and another grotta or two, pleafant. enough. There are feveral modern ftatuef, fome of them fet upon old altars or fi-ionumental marbles, haT/ins: VERONA. 487 having antique irfcriptions for their pcdellals. There arc fta' tues of Venus, Bacchus, and Ceres, with modern infcrintions- Under the tirll is, SINE ME LAETVM NIHIL EXORITVR S EA rVA IN VliUDARlO Mi HI POSIT A EST Vr IN VENERE VENVS ESSET. " Without me nothing is gay or pleafant, therefurc tliey " have placed my llatue in the garden, that, amidll lb many *' beauties, the goddcls of beauty may not be wanting." Under the lafl: is, NE OyiD VENERI DEESSET CVM BACCHO CERES ASSOCIATVR. " That Venus may be perfcvflly well accompanied, Bacclius " and Ceres have both joined her." Count Mofcardo's famous colledion of antiquities and other curiofities has been defcribcd by fevcral, io I (lull fay little of it. There are fcvcn or eight rooms filled with piflures, anti- quities of many kinds, idols, Roman, /Egyptian, &cc. \'^ari- ous inftruments ufed in facrifice ; fomc vcill-ls fuppofed to have been prafcricula *, of an elegant flnpe, and moil beautifully adorned with b-inb-relievo's, &c. There are abundance of in- fcriptions in marble and brafs ; with a world of fcpulchral lamps and lachrymatories, the ufual furniture i,i luch collec- tions : weapons of all countries : a great colledion of me- dals : natural curiofities in great abundance ; as rticlis, folTiIs, petrified fubftances, paits of filhes flicking to lloncs petrified. • The frtrf.riculum wa-; a bellied vefTcl, having 1 narrow neck, and a Tpout U. the top, with an anfu, or handle, behind. It was made ufe of to carry wine, or other liquors ufid in lacrihcei. iMr. dc la Chauflc, in his bo«ic dt InfigM. Poniif Mix. de- fcribes it in theic words ; F a-fericuUm trat ■vai, in J'acrijicii$ fr.rftrri jctiium, in juo viium, alijjve liiuar, inctudibaiur. Q 2 What 488 V E R O N A. What is fliewn here for a bafililk is much in the fame figure, but very much, larger than that of Settala in Milan. They drew forth a whole drawer full of thunder-bolts, as they call them. I was then fatislied they were not fo. Father Montfaucon fays they are no other than battle-ax?o of barba- rous nations. Some eggs they fhew of uncommon forms ; and one in the common form, with three little horfe-flioes nailed on it, the clenches brought a fecond time thro' the fliell, and turned down on the outfide : this was the notable per- formance of a Capuchin friar : 'tis pity he fhould ever have wanted iron or egg-lliells. They (hew here the armour of fome of the Scaligeri, who were princes of Verona, with their • Suii'j, in coat of arms enamel'd on it ; g;ules ; a Ladder * or. A daugh- inS"'°"'^ ter of one of the Scaligers married into the Molcardo family; her pidlure is there. The tombs of fome of thefc Scaligers are now feen in Ve- rona, very richly adorned in the Gothick way ; they are in an open place without doors. At Signor Antonio Odoli's, a rich citizen of Verona, we faw feveral good pidures and drawings, with other curiofities. One thing we faw there, an Abortive- kept in fpirits of wine, was very uncommon upon two accounts^ both as to its figure and the circumftance of its birth : it has but one head, and two bodies ; in that refpecft like that already mentioned in the Set- tala-colledion at Milan, It feemed to be of about five or fix months growth from the conception, and was brouglit forth about fix hours after the birth of a perfedl child at its full time. This is what the dodlors (I think) call a fuperfcetation ; arKi what they fay does very rarely happen. The perfedl one was living, and about five years old when we faw this. It was hinted to us, that thefe were the offspring of a miflrefs of the gentleman that fliewed this to us, and fo prefumptively his.own begetting. So far the gentleman went himfclf, as to afllire us of his own knowledge of the truth of the circumflance. At the dome they fliewed us the tomb of Pope Lucius the Third, with an infcription, fhewing that this pope being invi- dioufly driven from Rome, was well received at Verona, where, after a council called, and feveral great plans laid, he died. ' . - ' ' OSSA V E K O N O. OSSA LVCII HI PONT. MAX. CVI ROMA OR TN-VIDIA.M PVLSO VERONA TVTISS AC GRATISS. PKRFVOIVM FVIT : VBI CONVENTV CHRISTIANORVM ACTO, DVM PRALCLARA MVLTA MOLIRETVR, E VITA EXCESSIT. fn this church there is an Aflumption hy Titian, and a cha- pel painted in frefco hy BeUini. At tlie conventual church of S. George there is a fine pi(fture at the great altar by Paolo Verontfe j it rcprefents tlit- force ufcd to that faint by an old pricll of Apollo, hooded, and with a great beard like a Capuchin, to compel the faint to vvordilp a brazen ftatue of the idol. There are fevcral other figures in the pidturc, which is a very gay one, and painted with a great freedom. There is another of the fame mailer, rcp.-cknting S. Barnabas bleffing a fick perfon. Chrirt feeding the Multitude, painted by P.ioli Farinati when he was feventy-nine years old ; a very good pi<fture. The Gathering of Manna, hy Bruzaforfi ; and S. John haptifing Chrift, by Tintoret, over the church door. This is a convent of nuns, few in number; but moftly no- ble. We were told they were to be removed into other con- vents, and to leave theirs to friars, who were to fuccecd them in it. At the church of the Madonna de gli Organi they have a precious relick, and give a fpecial account of it : it is an afs about the fize of a large dog, having upon his back our Sa- viour in the a6t of bltfiing, cut in wood, about four hun- dred years ago, by a friar of the convent, who left it there ; liaving declared in his life-titTie that he would leave them /jua/- que fegm fome remarkable thing. This afs, as they tell you, was by fome means conveyed away from the convtnt three fe- veral times, and as many times returned on his own accord ; how he travelled hy land, the ftory fays not ; but when he got to the river fide, he took water and fwam along a branch of the Adige, which comes jufl by the convent, and llopt under the bridge that leads to the church. To alTure us of the truth of the 4^ 490 VERONA. the ftory, they (hewed us the pbce. It is now preferved with great veneration, as miraculous, in a little vault uver the altar in one of the chapels ; it is kept covered, and is not expoled but on great days. Two days in the year it is carried in pro- ceffion ; one of" the days is the Feaft of Corpus Domini. They lay no-body csn tell what wood it is made of"; and like enough, for 'tis painted over. It is related by feme, thai: .'le remains of the afb- that carried our Saviour, are pretended to _ .■ within the bodv of this : but that was not faid to us by ii-ic perfon who fhtwed it. How ridiculous foever fuch ftories as this may be, I think 'tis of ufe to mention them, that the Kngliih readers, who have not been abroad, may fee by what grot's means the people are impofed upon : but this is the laft I ihall trouble the reader with. We lodged in Verona at the Two Towers, next adjoining to a convent of the Dominicans ; and we every day palled by a fellow, whom we law loitering in the area before their church, proteded by thole good fathers, tho' he h:id in the compafs of a month murdered two perlons, one of whom was his own wife. He was in a fair way of murdering a third, for giving him fome reproachful words ; and had the hardinefs to tranf- grefs the limits of his proteftion, and ran to fetch a gun to have been revenged upon him : and, upon his return, find- ing the man was gone, he lodged his gun in the convent, in ■order to have it ready, if he lliould come that way again. He feemed to be very intimate with the icquilitor-general, .ho' he was no more conliderable a perfon than a common foot- Ibldier. Theie fanduaries and protedions in the churches and con- vents are doubtlefs one principal caufe of the frequent mur- ders in Italy. To this may be added the little ftrefs laid by the priefts at confeflion upon this or any other crime againil the laity, compared with fuch offences as are immediate againft the church. Another thing is, that the people of all conditions Iiave the office of the Sbirri (whofe burinci's it is to arreft crimi- nals) in fuch hatred and contempt, that no man, that is not one of them, will do any thing that is reckoned a part of their fundion, or any way to belong to it; lb that a man may kill another at i>ocn-day, in the open Ikeet, and no-body will lay hands on him ; VERONA. 49» him J by which means it comes to pnis, that if the Sbirri are not at hand to apprehend liim, he has opportunity to fly to the next churcli or convent ; and there he is fate, till means tan be Ibur.d for his furtlicr efcape, or compounding the matter. Another caufe, in fome parts of Italy, is the quick paflage out of one ftate into another; fo that in feveral cities we c.ime to, one or ether of the fcrvants that attended us, we were told, had h;;d a misfortune ; that is, he had kill'd a man, and was forc'd to quit his own country. Another thing is ^what paflls for prudence there, but what other nations would call cowardice and bafc- iiefs) th.^ir pronenefs to afiafrination and fecret flabs ; to take their revenge fccurely, without hazard to their own pcrlbns : for an Italian thinks it pretty odd, when a man has trod on his toes, that he Hiould give him an opportunity of cutting his throat too ; therefore your challengers, they think, a very un- accountable fort of pcrfons. They generally take care to go urmed, that they may never be unprepared, in cafe any fudden rencounter Ihould happen. The Jlilctto, notwithftanding the prohibition, is generally worn, cfpecially in fome parts : 1 have levcral times leen that and the roj'ary come out of the fame pocket. And befidcs this we.ipon, even the meaner fort are often furni(hed with a long fword, which they carry under their arm. I have (ccn them go to harveft-work, with long fwords and guns among their implements of hufbandry. As it is not fafe to affront an Italian, unlefsyou are upon you-r guard, and refolve to be as quick as he, (o, on the other hand, you have generally the leaft provocation to it from them of any people : they are very civil and refpcvftful, and not at all im- pertinent in tlieir behaviour. Meddle not with their atfairf, and give them no caufc of jealoufy, and they arc a people very well to live with. BelJdcs the taking leave at going to bed, thty bid good night twice before ; one at theyiw M.iriiU which is about fun-fct, and again at the bringing in of candles; ;.t both which times the company bow r.ll round to one another. In cafe of thunder, it is ufual in Italy to fet all the bells in a town a ringing; in which there is a mixture of philofophy and fuperl^ition. 'They fuppofe that the motion, which the ring- ing puts the air into, helps to break the clouds, and give vcnl to luch particles, which by their being pent up do caule^ the CM lofion : 492 V O L A R N I A. LA C H I U S A. explofion : and further, that their bells being bleffed, and fprinkkd with holy water, have a fovereign power to make thunder and lightning ceafe. Notwithrtanding all the bells and holy water, there was the dreadfulleft day of thunder and lightning in Rome, while we were there, that ever I faw. The lightnins; fell fo as to do hurt in thirteen places within the walls. In the facrifty of S. John Lateran it burnt the pallium of the altar, and had like to have ftifled the priefts that were attending. It fet fire to a magazine of hay in a brick build- ing of three or four bays near the amphitheatre, which we faw continuing to burn two or three days after. A young girl, niece to a nun, in one of the convents, was going to Ihut a window there, and had her arm and hand flruck in fuch a manner as to be black and fenfelefs : her fingers flood out from one another, nor was fhe able to reduce them. By chafing the part with oil of clove?, I was told they were fet right again. In the fummer-time, at Venice, it lightned almoft ev-ery night, and often without any thunder. From Verona, we came by the way of the Tirol, and fo thro' Germany to Holland. As we made little fiay in any place by the way, fo I fhall do little more than name the principal places we palled through. Between Verona and Volarnia, the grounds were all planted with vines and mulberry-trees, &c. as already defcribed in Lombardy. In the fecond pofl from Verona, we came to that difficult pafs, called La Chiufa, where there is a garrifon of the Vene- tians. It is a pafiage cut out of the fide of a great rock of white marble; the afcent is fo fteep, and the footing fo ill for the horfcs, that we were forced to have the coach drawn over it by men ; I think there were fixteen of them. The rock was a great height above us on one fide, and on the other was a pre- cipice almofl perpendicular down to the Adige, which runs a- long the bottom. We had another precipice over the Adige a little after, at a place called Dolce. In the next port, between Peri and Alia, we left the Vene- tian territory, and entered the Trentine. At 1 TRENTINE. ALPS. At the pafs of Scrravalle they demanded our paflport*. Soon after we parted thro' the Sclavini, which is aho called the wood of Roveredo, though there is not a finglc tree now in it, but a world of vaft ftone?, which covered the wliole plain, and made the pafTage exceeding diflicnlt. After this the Alps pcrfeiflly hovered over our heads, on each fide ; there were fome moil: pleafant vales, planted with vines, 6:c. In the lafl port: towards Trent, we obferved a great fl:onc fct upon others, of which a rt<.etch is given in the plate of page 313. This ftone feems to be of the fame kind with thofe taken notice of by the author of Mona Ayitiqua Rejlmtrata, in his account of the antiquaries, &c. of that irtand [Anglefey], fcveral of which ftones are now to be feen there. The name thefe ftones go bv in that irtand, is crom-kch; and the author, as well from his fuppofed etymology of the word, as from the figure and pofition of the ftones, and for other reafons, concludes them to have been altars, erefted for reli- gious worftiip, and the performance of oblations and facrifices-, by that famous fct of Druids, with which that irtand was once well filled. The original of thefe altars he deduces very high, even from the difperfion of n.Jtions after the coniufion at Babel ; and fup- pofes that on the firft ereded of them, the firft- fruits of the place might be ort-'ered to God, by thefe very firft mtn wlio came thither ; and that thefe firft men (he adventures to guefs) carried the name with them from Babel, as they did feveral other words, and called it carem-kch, from the Hebrew T^^ D^n ccerem luach, a devoted- ftone or altar. The defcription he gives of them is, that thefe altars of ftone were huge broad flattifti ftones, tnounted up and laid flat upon others that were eredl : the length of one, which he gives us a print of, is thirteen foot. Thefe ftones, befides what he obferves of their figure and pofition, the adthor further concludes to have been altars, and thofe of the mcft antient fort, from their niJv and unfartiioned Tfiakt' ; appearing to be (uch. as [after they had been hewn out of the rock or quarryl " had not a tool ftruck upon them, ovcf " which no man hath- lifted up any iron ;" "as-expreffcd in the Vol. II. K> b^'^^s 4^' 494 TRENT. N E W M A R K T. books of Exodus and Jofhua, and of which fort the oldeft pa- triarchal altars were. Such the author defcribes thofe in Anglefey to be, " rude " natural (livers of lloiie, coarfe and unhew'd ;" and fuch is this I fpeak of near Trent, v/hich feems to have no other fafliioning, than what it received in its being hewed out of the' rock. The length of this I judged, by my eye, to be about fourteen or fifteen foot. It lies juft by the road-fide, on the left hand, as you come from Verona towards Trent. A great deal more may be feen concerning thefe ftones in the book I have cited; but I have inferted thus much (and what I think is the principal of it) here, becaufe the book is at prefent pretty rare to be met with, except among the gentlemen of Wales and of Ireland. TRENT. T N our inn at Trent I obferved the arms of a noble Venetian, -*• who had been ambaflador in England, with this infcription. Pet. Grhnani eqiics, peraSld tn AngUd legatione. Loquebar in confpeciu regum. " Peter Grimani, knight; after having per- *' formed an embafly in England. I fpoke in the prefence of " kings." Their noon at Trent is an hour before true mid-day. I could not learn the reafon of it there ; but it is probable the cuftom of thus anticipating the time, may have taken its ori- gin from the fitting of the council there ; for the fame cuftom bifhop Burnet tells us is inBafil, and is fuppofed to have taken its rife from the like caufe ; and that it was in order to the advancing of bufinefs, and the fhortening their feffions ; and fo it has continued ever fince. I had fome difcourfe with my landlord at Trent concerning cleanlinefs J upon which he took occafion to tell me, I muft not imagine myfelf to be in Italy now. At Newmarkt, two pofts from Trent (as at other places afterwards in the Tirol) two young damfels went before us, at ©ur firft coming in, wafting frankincenfe in the chambers^ as the' they were oiicring incenfe to the Lares. The reafon oi this N E W M A R K T. B O L S A N O. 495 this cuftom is, to take off a difagreeable fmell which is left in the rooiH'^ by the ftoves j for now there began to be no fuch thing as chimneys in the rooms, and yet no enduring in winter without the help of fires; tho' indeed at ilie leafon we palled, which was in May, tliere was no occafion for them ; but ihe flench, that they caufed when in ufe, was not yet gone. The ftoves were either of earthen ware or call iron, fometimcs prettily adorn'd with baiib-rcHevo's. The body of the ftovc ftands in the room where you are, but the fire is put in from the other fide of the wall. The people in the Tirol are faid to live well, and enjoy their liberties; nor are they taxed, as other places under the emperor arc: they are his hereditary country, and love him, and rtood firmly by him againfl the French. It is looked upon as policy in him to treat them well ; elfe tiicy might pat themfelves un- der their neighbours tiie Venetians (whatever they might get by fuch a change), or rather join with the Swifs cantons. Between Newmarkt and Bolfano we faw little huts or cabins raifed on three ports, where people watch to llioot the bears. Thefe and wolves are frequent in thofe parts. The rocks were now high and clofe about us, the mountains fometimes perfedlly furrounding us like an amphitheatre. In fome places we fiw great currents of ftoncs, which had been hurried down the mountains by the melted fnows. A houfc had lately before been ruin'd by one of them. P'urther on, wc faw a great many yews, firs, and fig-trees, among the mountains. The country- people we met with in thefe parts had fome of them green hats, and others blue bonnets. S. George and S. Martin feem to be the great faints of the Tirol ; we faw pictures of them frequent in the roads ; and fometirnes of S. John Keopomucenus, the patron of bridges. At Bolfano we drank fome excellent wine, not much unlike that of Vienne in France. We had mofl plcalant views of vad plantations of vines about Bolfano on the fides of the hills ; and the vallies were quite cover'd with them, Specially on this fide : they were kept low, and their branches tied to frames of wood. They grew in long narrow terraces, whofe fronts were kept up with brcaft-walls of llonc ; and in this manner they were carried one row above another, gradatini, up the fides R 2 of 496 BRIXEN. MOUNT BUENNER. of the hill. The fituatloti of the ground where thefe vines grow, is comparatively low, in refpedt of the great afcents we came to afterwards : and the vineyards, lying on the fouth fide of thefe great afcents, have the full influence of the fun, and are at the fame time defended from the cold attacks of the north winds ; lb that the grapes and other fruits arrive to a' great and early maturity. As we came on, we found the mountains rife to a vafl: height j fome fides of the rocks were as perpendicular as a wall. Brixen From Verona to Brixen are fourteen pofts. We had here the moft delicate bread I ever tafled in any place; and very good wine. Soon after, the vines began to ceafe ; and now we had great numbers of firs on each hand, with goofeberries, barber- ries, &c. by the road fides. I obferved that the young twigs of the afh-trees were cut off, which I was told they took and dried to feed their flieep with. In one place they were putting up fome pales ; and the ends of the polls that were to go into the ground they burnt till they were black, which would fecure them from being rotted fo foon by the moiiture of the earth, as they would otherwife be. I have underflood fince, that this is pradifed in fome parts of England ; but it is not fo in the parts where I have been moft acquainted. When we had gained the afcent of the mountain Brenner, ■which is the higheft part of the Alps in this road, we found ourfelves perfedly in another climate ; the air was as cold the twentieth of May there, as in February with us. The fummits of the mountain on each hand (which were yet higher than the •road part) were all covered with fnow; and tho' we had eaten ripe cherries the day before at Bolfano, we found the trees here but beginning to bloom. Crucifixes, oratories, and vows, were very frequent in thefe parts, by the road-fide. We had now traced the Adige, frequently clofe by the fide of it, quite up to its fountain-head. It is of a great breadth at Verona ; and it was pleafant enough to obferve by what degrees it leffen'd, fi:ill as we got above the mouths of the feve^al other rivers, and leller brooks, which emptied themfelves into it, till at laft it was no wider than a common ditch. The head of the Aaige is but part of another ftream, that throws itfelf in a fpout from I N S P R U C: K. from the llde of a rock j the otiier part of which llrcam docs not form (as Miflbn fays it doesj, but falls into, the beginninj^ of the river Inn, which runs along the other fide of the road! and goes down to Infpruck. The firs continued all along the mountains on each hand, almofl: all the way to Infpruck. I N S P R U (.• Iv. 1_I ERE we faw the roof of the porch before the chancery, ■'■ -■■ covered with plates of gold, or what they do at lealt pre- tend to be fuch J of which there are already accounts pub- lillied. The monument of the emperor Maximilian, and the flatues of copper in a church of the Francifcan?, larger than the life, reprcfenting great perfons related to that emperor, are a noble fight : they (land in two rows, on each fide as you go up the middle of the church, and have a very magnificent ap- pearance. The profpc(5t of Infpruck, at our defccnt from the mountain towards it, is very pleafant; from Brixen hither, about fevcn pofls, and again from hence to Ober Mcmingcn, about two ports further, we had much precipice. At Ober Memingen, a little place, the hoft had built a chapel oppofite to his houfe, and a grotta at a little diftance, with cirterns for fifli, each having a pipe for a lupply of frcfli water. Between Noflereit and Lermcs, the two next poft«, we had great precipices ; the vallies were filled with hn. Somewhere hereabouts we faw a rtatue of Chrill, for a foun- tain, with the water fpouting cut of his fide. At Fiefa, a good town, fix ports diftant from Lifpruck, is a convent of Benedictines. Irlere the mountains begun to Icf- {en and leave us, going off from us on each hand. The firs rtill continued all along the grounds ; we travelled through fc- veral woods of them. Wc 49; 498 M I N D E L H E I M. AUGSBURG. Wc paffed along the confines of Bavaria, leaving them on the right hand going from Fiefa to Hiirlach. We left Min- delheim [the duke of Marlborough's principality] on our left. From Hurlach to Augfburg all is an even plain of about fif- teen miles. Here the French encamped, before the battle of Blenheim : we faw fome remains of their works. We had a palace of the elector of Bavaria within view, on our right. From Infpruck to Auglburg are fifteen polls and a half. AUGSBURG. A Ugsburg lies jufl by the confines of Bavaria. It is ahand- •^^ fome city, with fair wide lireets, efpecially the Wine- markt Street, fo called from a llorehoufe of wine, a handfome fabrick, that is in it. There are two handlbme fountains in this ftreet, one with the figures of Mercury and Cupid in cop- per ; the other with thofe of Hercules killing the Hydra; Cu- pids with Swans j Tritons and Nymphs : one of the nymphs is fqueezing water out of her hair ; another is wringing a cloth j the third is pouring water. On the front of the arfenal is St. Michael and the Devil, in copper. The Hotel de Ville is a rich ftrudlure, adorned with paint- ings of the fevcral forms of government, and other fubjeds. There are marble pillars, with the capitals and bales of brafs, of the Corinthian order. The floves in the feveral apartments are finely adorned with pillars, bas-reliefs, &c. The Secret, or Private Gate, is a curiofity they fliew to Gran- gers, and boaft much of. To come to it from without, you pafs through two doors, by the fentinel's box : then you come to the firfl: gate th.it opens by the machinery ; then you go over a bridge of forty-three paces : eleven paces further, there is a little iron gatej then immediately is a draw-bridge; when the draw-bridge is let down, the iron gate opens, without any body near it, and that (huts as the bridge is drawn up again : then the firfl great gate opens; after that, two more, at a few paces diftance from each other. As foon as the fecond opens, the 1 AUGSBURG. the fiill (liuts, and (o on. TIktc is an iron ll.iy, which fnffcrs the gate to open only fo far as to let in one perron at a time. Each gnte is governed by two powers, one to unbolt n:u] bolt, the other to open and iTiut ; and tiicfc are managed in a gallcrv above, fo that you fee them open and (hut, as tho' it were by enchantment i for no-body is near them. The bar which is for bolting and unbolting, is placed perpendicularly along the edge of the gate, and is moved up and down to unbolt and Iwlr, having knobs or knuts on it [o] [a] that flip into fockcts. [Sec the fcheme.] That bar which is for opening and Hiutting is placed behind, toward the heel of the gate, and the gate is opened by the branch marked [/^J. The manner of moving each bar is thus. By pulling the handle [c], at the fame time that it comes towards vou, it is raifcd upwards ; and with it is raifed the hock [J], which pulls up the bar that is joined to it, and brings the knobs [a] [a] out of their fockcts. By pulling the handle [e] towards you, at the fame time the branch [It] is brought forward, and brings the door along with it, fo far as it is intended to open. In the place of the pricked lines, is the floor of a gallery, where they ftand to move the bolts, which pafs thro' the floor of the gallery. The machinery that raifes the bridge, and lets it down, is in an upper room ; it is inclofed in a caie, and the whole of it is not to be feen : we fee no more of it than an iron wheel with teeth, turned round by a winch, and this managed by a young girl ; a child might do it, it goes fo cafy. The firll gate 1 mentioned [that before you come to the bridge] is opened from within, about fix paces dillant from it. Any may go out of this gate that will, but none may come in [in times of dif- turbance] without particular leave of the governor. The re- verfeof Janua Ditis. This woik, they told us, was performed by a fmith of the Tirol, two hundred years ago ; was never re- paired fmcc, and all continues firm. There are in this town three water-towers, in which the water is raifed by engines a hundred and thirty f)ot. The foldiers of the garrifon have little houfcs built for them in the nature of barracks, like the cells of the Carthufians, four hundred in nurnbcr, which make flrects of thcmfclvcs in one part of the town. Vol. II. S All 499 500 AUGSBURG. M E M D I N G E N. All orders, degrees, and conditions of perfons in Aug{burg are diftinguiflied by their proper dreflts. The women's are many of them very odd and uncommon, but fome of them very pretty. They fell there prints done upon pieces ot paltcboard, and waftied, reprefenting their feveral drclTcs j a fet of them looks like a pack of cards. We faw there an experiment for extinguilliing fire. They had made a fabrick of boards fct round with faggots, dry cloven wood, and other combuftible matter ; the boards were finged within, that they might fooner take fire : when all was thoroughly on fire, thry threw in a little barrel, it made a fmall expi.nion, and the :ire immediately- abated j but, continuing lliU to barn at one end, they threw in another barrel, and it was all extinguKhed. The fame, I ani told', has fince been performed here in England. When we had come about two ports from Augiburg, we en- * Or Donau-tere,d on a fine plain in view of Donav/ert * and Schellenberg, *°" ■ fignalized by the duke of Marlborough's great vidlory there. Some works of the French were ftill remaining. We went thro' Donawert, having firft pafied over the Danube by a bridge: the Danube is but narrow here. There is a wood of oaks ca one fide of the French intrenchments ; we went thro' part of it. We paflcd through feveral woods afterwards, whofe un- derwoods were chiefly juniper. There is a convent of Benedidines about zjliin -}- and a half from Donawert. We had very bad roads till we came almoft to Memdingen, [four ports from Auglburg.] We were four hours in coming this port. Memdingen. At Memdingen we faw ftorks on the tops of the houfes, as in Holland. We obferved fome fir-poles placed at feveral doors, which we 'were told were a compliment to young maids by their lovers, on May-day. We were there the 29th of May, N. S. Not only fome of the cuftoms in Germany have an affinity with ours, but the complexion of the inhabitants, and the face of the country itfelf refembks ours, more than I have feen t ^ftuH, or fliiniit, is half a German mile ; that is, two miles and a half, or three siiles Engliili : ,1 take it to be theee meafuicd mifes. M E M D I N G E N. 50 . in any other country. The general look of ih .ir buildings, (many of them timber) and particularly that of their villages, and the furniture in their inns, is very much like whnt wc meet with in the old ones among us : fome of the old dred'es too, as ruffs about the neck, and fcver.d ether particulars, give one reafon to believe, that fomc parts of Germany arc now a c:;ood deal like what England was a hundred years ago. The afVmity between the German language and the old Englilli, both in expreflion and character, is generally known. • On this fide Mcmdingen wc palled through fevcral woods of Oeiingcu. pines, &c. At Oetingcn, three quarters of a poH. more this way, we obfcrved many of the prince's palace-windows much broken, which we were told were with hail-lloncs of above an inch diameter, about a month before we were there : other houfes had fuffered ; but this being higher, is mo(1: cxpofed. There are valt woods of firs towards Creillheimb ; this place Crei'.nicimW. is fubjcdt to the prince of Anfpach, and the inhabitants are all Lutherans. After this, wc met with fevcral v.oods of oaks, &c. There is a pleafant valley below the road as you come to Mcrgcnthal. The view of this place at a diftance is like that of Infpruck. Hereabouts, and further on towards Miltenherg, we found Miltenbcrg. vines again. The laft-mentioned place is fubjedt to the eledor of Mentz; it is all one long flreet, called a league in length, turning along the n<irts of a mountain. From Miltenberg we pafled the Maine in a ferry; thence to Afchaffenberg, a pleafint vale by it, planted with vines and tobacco, with corn interfperfed : the river Maine running all along on one fide. After this, a fandy way brought us to Hanau, a handfomc town, fubjeft to its own count. Moft of U*"''"- the inhabitants are proteftants, and feveral of them are French refugees. A fine palace of the count's is about a mile from it, with good gardens after the French manner. Guards were at the gate. Corn, and in fome parts tobacco, continued all the way to Francfort. From Augfburg to Francfort are fixteen pcfls and 3 quarter. s 2 r R A :^' ^ - 502 F R A N C F O R T. RANCFORT. T' HERE are four towers marking the extent of the liber- ties of this city, four feveral ways, at fome diflance from ir. Saxhaufen [or Sachfenhaufen] is fituated with refpedt to Francfort, as Southwark is to London, the river Maine part- ing them. In the Lutheran church there is a good deal of painting, and feme fculpture. The cieling, and the fronts of the galleries, are painted with Scripture hiftory : the altar-piece is our Sa- viour's paffion in the garden : the altar is of black marble,- the pulpit and reading-defk are marble. There is the figure of Chrift, with a globe, and a crucifix j both of alabafter; and a pidure of S. Paul. The city is of the finer fort, well peopled, and has a confi- derable appearance of bufinefs. From Francfort we took a boat to Cologne, for which we paid forty dollars. The firft night from Francfort we lay at Rifleil- fleim, a village two hours fliort of Mentz. Next morning we faw a great number of people going on devotion to fome Ma- donna j it was faid there were two thoufand of them : I fup- pofe it v/as fome feftival they obferve there in honour of the Bleffed Virgin, June 6, N. S. The Maine and the Rhine join jufi: before we come to Mentz, or M.iyence. The villa of the eledtor, and the con- vent of the Carthufians, are oppofite to the mouth of the Maine, where it falls into the Rhine. Hockham. We paffed by Hockham hereabouts; which place being fa- mous for good wine, is the occafion that the befl old Rhenirti wines are among us called Old Hock. A bridge of boats goes acrofs the river, which is there very broad, from Mentz to Cafiel : they loofened fome of the boats which help to fupport the bridge, and feparated them to make room for our boat to pafs between them. Kats Tower. We pafied by the Rats Tower (of which the flory is well known) near Binghen. It is on a little illand in the uudfl of the CODLENTZ. COLOGNE. 503 the Rhine. There is a dangerous place in the river, a whirl- pool, a little before we come to this place. The mountains here were very hi^h, and clofo to the river on each fide. COBLENTZ. /^OBLENTZ is very pleafantly fituatcd, in an angle where ^^ the Rhine and Mofclle meet : and is therefore called Con- fluentia, or Conflucntes, a Confiuxu dttorum Vlnminum. Over againft Coblentz, on the other fide of thf Rhine, is a flrongcaftle, on a high craggy fnuation, called Ebrcnbreftein *• « ^'.^''^J j"*" There is a palace of the archbilhop of Triers at the bottom of Ic'.'/m^.*' it, juft on the fide of the Rhine. About Bonn, the country ^'<-"'""''«>°- on the fides of the river began to grow flat, it having been hilly and mountainous for a confiderable time before. COLOGNE. A T Cologne the women go veiled, as in Italy ; there is a ■^ •*■ large piazza [or fquare] in this city, and a leficr one not far off it, which lie, in rcfpedl; of one another, tnuch in the manner as the Piazza Navona, and Campo di Fiore at Rome do. The buildings here have very fteep roofs, fo that the ga- ble-ends [or pediments] make a very fliarp angle at the top. The fl'jpe of thefe gable-ends, infl:cad of being one continued line, is formed into lleps ; upon each of which is placed a pin- nacle, or banner, as r^preftntcd in the following cut, and has a tawdry trifling appearance. Tlie 504 COLOGNE. The Dome, what is done of it, is fine in the Gothick way, in the manner of that at Milan, but is not half finifhed, tho' of an old foundation. The canons there are all princes or counts. The bodies of the three kings [already mentioned] removed hither from Milan, are kept with great veneration : a canon is always prefent at the fhewing them. Prince NafTau prefided when we were there. The names they give them are Gafpar, Melchior, and Bahhazzar, and thefe names are frequent among the people of that neighbourhood. There are great numbers of juniper-trees hereabouts, and the Genevre, or (as we call it) Geneva or Gin, which is a compound fpirit from the juniper-berries, is here to be had in the D U S S E L D O R p. N I M E G U E N. 505 tlie greatcft perfcdioii ; the Cologne Gencvrc being generally cfteemed the moft excellent. At DussELDORP there is an cquertral flatuc of the clcdor Du<'i--lJo/p. Palatine in the piazza. KAYSERSWArRT, tWO hourS from DulTcldorp, is a pafs. Ka>/crfv.aert. This place was bombarded by the allies in 1703. There is an illand, not far off, in the Rhine, which they upon that occa- hon poffclled themfelves of. The place is fubjedt to the elector RoERwoRT, at the mouth of the Rocr, is another pafs : Rocrwor:. this is fubjed: to the kii^g of Prulua. Shexkinshans, a little iiland in the Rhine, was the firflShenkindini. ground in Gelderland we touched upon. There is a toll there of a fol and a half per head. By reafon of contrary winds, our boat could not come on, fo wc left it, and walked three miles to Nimeguen ; and though the fun flione, and it was then the tenth of June, N. S. yet the wind was fo cold, that we thought fit to wear cur cloaks all the way, and found them very comfortable. NIMEGUEN. WE came to Nimeguen by a ferry acrofs t!ie Wahl, which, is a branch of the Rhine, and parts from it nt tlie Fort de Schenck. The firft Itreets of this city we came into, have aconliderable afcent from the river : in the middle of the town is a fpacious fquare, with handfome buildings about it. The Calvinifls here have organs in their church ; no altar or communion-table is continually kept there ; but they bring one in when they have cccafion to ufc it. The having of or- gans we afterwards found to be general in the churches ot Hol- land. We afterwards paffed by Loveilein, or LovenAcin, a conhnement for the ftate-prifoncrs, juft at the mouth of the Maefe. Doa Tv 5o6 DORT. ROTTERDAM. DoRT, or Dordrecht, famous for the fy nod there in i6i8, was the firft city of Holland we came into ; it is pleafant and very clean, as indeed all the cities in Holland are. One would think they were little dealers here in roart-meat : we were to have a few pidgeons roafted at our inn ; they had never a fpit in the houfe ; and after a long fearch they could find no better a utenfil to ferve for one than a piece of a pitch'd rope : I think fome body's fword at lail adted its part as well as I am now come to a country fo near our own, and fo well known to thofe of our nation, that I fliall detain the reader with only a very few curfory obfervations. ROTTERDAM. TTTHAT ftay we made in Holland was chiefly at Rotterdam, ^ ' where, inftead of idle abbes fauntering about the ftreets, (a fight we had been pretty much us'd to) every thing that had life was now bufy j all were at work ; not only men, women, and children, but dogs and goats ; for thefe I obferv'd drawing burdens on little carriages along the fireets : for the Dutch, together with their induftry, fliew themfelves to have learnt the art of making their heads fave their hands, as is feen in their mills for fawing of timber and for other purpofes, whereby a great deal of manual labour as well as expence is fav'd, in com- parifon to what is employ'd in other places. And, as when a ■man has got a thing with difficulty, we fay he has got it out of the fire, fo, on the other hand, they have in the literal fenfe got their territory out of the water, and with art and induftry main- tain their pofll-fllon of it. The indefatigable patience of this people is a good^ deal feen in the works of their painters, who, if they want the graceful defign of the Italians, make the befl: amends they can in the utmoft height of finiOiing, in which they have outdone all the world, and indeed performed mira- cles ; as fully appears by the great numbers of their pieces that are in England, as well as in thofe abroad. How R O T T E R D A M. How numerous the men of wit may be among them, I know not; but they have given a confiderdble inflance of the value and eflcem they have for fuch as are fo, in the copper llatuc they have crcdcd of Erafmus in his native ci(y : it is a whole- length figure, on a pedeftal of marble, with a book, in his liand, in the adion of turning over the leaf. There are four infcriptions under this flatue ; one is, DESIDERIO ERASMO, MAGNO SCIENTIARVM ATQVE LITE- RATVRAE POLITIORIS VINDICI ET INSTAVRATURI VIRO SAECVLI SVI PRIMARIO, CIVI OMNIVM PRAESTANTISSIMO, AC NOMlNiS IMMORTALITATEM SCRIPTIS AEViTERNIS JVRE COKSECVTO, S. P. Q, ROTERODAMVS NE QVOD TAN- TJS APVD SE SVOSQVE POSTERIS \'IRTVTIBVS PRAEMIVM DEESSET, STATVAM HANC EX AERE PVBLICO ERIGENDAM CVRAVERVNT. " To Defiderius Erafmus, the Great Patron and Reflorer of ' polite Literature, a man the moft eminent ol his age, the ' heft of Citizens, one wlio by his never-dying Writings has ' jullly procured Immortality to his Name; the Senate and ' People of Rotterdam, that a Reward of fo great Virtues ' might ever fubfilt among them and their Poftcrity, have ' caufcd this flatue to be eredcd at the publick Coft." On another fide the pedcfLai are the following lines, which I believe will hardlv be thought in any meafure equal to the ful^jea: : Ba>/^c,,,\, /„,.//. ft- ciebelLUor Erafmus, Maxima hits Bafavi 7icmims, ore tu'it. Reddidit en fcuis ars oblu^ata Jiniftris J)l' tanto fpoliiim nabla quod nrna viro rji. Ingenii ccelejie juhar, via'p/fquc cr.duco "tempore qui reddat Joins Erajr:-ts erit. In Englifh thus j Here flands Erafmus, wlio did high advance The Bclgic name, and beat down ignorance. Vol. II. T Sec 507 5o8 R O T T E R D A M. X See Alt, here ftriving with the Fates unkind. Shews the great fpoil, which in the grave's coniin'd* But would you his immortal wifdom fhow ? That's what Erafmus' felf alone can do. On the other two fides are infcriptions in Dutch. On the front of a little houfe not far off the ftatue, where they fay he was born, are thefe lines : JEdiliis his ortiis, mimdum decor avit Eraf?}ius, Artibus ingenuis, religtone, fide. Fatalis feries nobis invidit Erafmiimy. At defiderium tollere non potuit. name had been more evident. defiderium with a little d, as aiming at a concealment of the • For had it pun * ; vvhich yet mufl be underllood, or the joke's all fpoiled. been with a 'pj^g p^,,j which concludes this epigram, makes a thorowtran- capital, the ^ . '^ i . . o- i i i i t- t i aiiufion to his 11-ation ot It mipradticable : and the Englilh reader may take my word for it, that he fuffers nothing by the lofs. In the great church of Rotterdam is a monument erefted by a lady of that place to an Englilla youth who died in her houfe ; and in the infcription there is this palfage, _____> qii^ exemplum Jlatuit in fe tlhijire quam Jan^ijftme foedus inter Anglos Batavofque colat Belgia, neque jniniis privatis beneficiis & b-enevokntid quam fociis arnm certet obfignare. - - - - _ .. — _ << whereby flie refolved to render herlelf an illuf- " trious example, fhewing after how facred a manner Holland " obferves the league between the Englifli and the Dutch ; *' which they endeavour to ratify, not lefs by private good of- " iices, than by their confederate arms." There is fine brafs-work in this church, feparating the nave from what was antiently the choir j there they now catechife and marry. There is a large organ in this church, with another fmaller one. The EngliOi church in this city is a very neat and pleafant flrufture : I oblerved an appearance of greater devotion here,, and in the Englifli chapel at Leghorn, than what is generally feen in our churches in England ; which feemed to me as if 6 thei£ AMSTERDAM. 509 their zeal were acftuated and invigorated by a fort of Antiperi- llafis, of people -zealous in a different way furrounding them. The fronts of tiie lioufes in Rotterdam, and otiier towns of Holland, are built inclining : when I firft obfcrved them fo, I thought it was by accident, thro' fome fettling of the founda- tion, many of them being built on piles : but finding them ge- nerally fo, I was told, upon enquiry, that they were defignedly fo built, the better to fhcd off the wet, that it might not rua down to the foundation. AMSTERDAM. T Was but one day in Amrterdam, fo could not fee many par- •*■ ticular things 5 but by its general appearance it feemed to me in fome refpeds the fincll city I have feen. If there be no very extraordinary publick buildings except the Stadt-houfe, (whicii is indeed a noble ftrudture) or many private ones of fuch fuperior rank as in other places would be called palaces, the uniform beaivty of the city in general is very great. The principal ffrects, which are the Kayfar's Graft, the Ileer's Graft, and the Prince's Graft, are indeed furprizingly fine ; they are called near two miles long, much upon a parallel (as I remember) to one another, and of a great breadth. The houfes on each fide are high, and very well built ; a large ca- nal going all along the middle of the ffreet, with handfomc bridges over it at fuitable diffances. On each iide of the canal, between it and the houfes, is a fpacious walk adorned with ihady trees. This manner of difpofition is common to moft of the cities and towns in Holland, but the vaft length and fpacioufncfs of thcfe ia what gives them a preference to all others. The beauty of the Stadt-houfe feemed to me greater within Stadthoufc than without. It has on the outfide a double row of pilafters, (one above another) both of the Corinthian order : or, whether the upper may not be Compofite, I cannot be pofitive. The windows are all plain ; the flope of the roof Is all feen, which gives it a naked look, and feems to want a baluftrade, or an Attic, to intercept the fight of (at lead) fome part of it. T 2 There 510 A M S T E R D A M. There is no great gate ; but they give this reafon for it, that in cafe of a popular rifing, it fliould not be fo eafily furprized. There is a portico below at the entrance, with four Caria- tides in good attitudes; alfo a bas-relief of Solomon's Wifdom, and two others. There are pilafters and other ornaments, all of white marble. The great hall above is finely adorned, having a reprefenta- tion of Juftice at one end, and of Peace at the other, with feveral figures about each, all of marble ; there is a double row of Corinthian pilafters fluted, with feftoons, &c. and a great Atlas There is a of marble placed aloft at the upper end. On the floor are fuTon thr hemifpheres, defcribed by lines of brafs inferted in the marble outfide, with pavement. A portico or gallery goes round the hall, upon the other^figuies l}^|^^^Q Aqqj- jq vvhich are bas-reliefs, with feftoons, &c. Out of this there go doors into the feveral chambers. The hall and portico are all of white marble. The cieling of the hall is painted, and there are feveral paintings in the portico and chambers, feme by Mynheer Flinck, father to the late famous virtuolb in Rotterdam. There is a pidure in one of the rooms, of M. Curius rejeding the gold of the Samnites, and under it is written Mar/cus Kurius burghomajler va?! Rome, [of Rome.] They (hewed us a chamber where people are married in prc- fence of the magiftrates ; that is, thofe that are not of the com- munion of that country, and whom therefore their priefts can- not marry, and lb they are married before the magiftrate. Another chamber there is, out of whi^h criminals, condemn- ed to die, are condufted through a balcony to a fcatfold ereded before it, upon which they are executed. In the marble floor are fwords inlaid, and other devices relating to the execution of juftice, and the power of the magillrate. Higher yet, in another flory, they flievved us an armory, where they told us were arms for eighty thoufand men ; they did not make the appearance of fuch a number; they were indeed not feen to advantage, being all cup-boarded up. There are fome old fuits of armour, placed in ranks in an open chamber, but no- thing extraordinary. There are chimes in this Stadt-houfe which are much cele- brated ; there are thirty-fix bells and fixty hammers. Tunes go upon them at every hour, and every quarter ; thefe are per- 5 formed. AMSTERDAM. 511 formed for the mod part by clock-work j but there are feme certain times, at which a man plays tunes upon them by the help of keys, as on a harpfichord. There is a fine view of the city and of the harbour from the highell part of this building: the fliips do as it were enibrace one fide o{ the town, and wind-mills tlie other. Under the Stadt-houfe are the prifons, out of which they look thro' flrong double grates into a paffjge that goes round j on theoutfideof which is a llrong wall i beyond that again ii the general out-wall of the building. In the torture-room, they fliewcd the ropes for flretching, valt weights to hang at the toes, and machines for fqueezing. There is a whipping-pod in the fame room, to which the cri- minal's hands are tied, with an iron hoop for his middle, and others for the ancles. There is a leather to defend women's bread:?. There are tables, and other ccnveniencies, at a little diftance, in the fame room, where they write the confefilons, Clofcty, there is a room to flrip thofe who are to be whipped, whence come out the men only in their breeches, and the women only in their petticoats and breail-piece. The whole is a vail pile of building; and it is hard to conceive how it was poffible to make a foundation here to fupport it, where the ground is not firm enough to bear an ordinary dwelling- houfe, without driving in piles to fet it upon. Mr. Evelyn, in his difcourfc of foreft-trees, ch. xxii. tells us, that there are no fewer than thirteen thoufand fix hundred and fifty-nine great malls of iir driven into, the ground, to make the foun- dation of this Stadt-houfe. The Spin-hcufe, which Grangers are generally taken to fee. Spin- houfe. is a handfome building. A little before we were there, fuch enormities had been committed in the mufick-houfes, that they were put down ; and at the fame time a draught was made, from amongfi: thofe that frequented them, to be difpofed of in the Spin-houfe. There the laflcs fate very orderly at work : the nioft heinous olfenders fcparated from the others : thofe in the inner apartments the governor told us were futh as me- riteil death rather than that confinement only; and that fome of them were likely to rcmiin there during life. Many of the faces were much out of repair, nofcs lallen, dec. At ouc coming L E Y D E N. coming away, the governor ftruck up a pfalm, the lafTes laid down their work, and joined very demurely. They feemed to be under good government, and much in awe. The Exchange of Amfterdam is much cried up there, but it is inferior in magnificence to the Royal Exchange of London : it is of an oblong figure ; and enclofed with a portico, as our's is. I faw feveral coach-bodies there drawn upon fledges ; they do not ufe wheels, to avoid fliaking the foundations of the houfcs, which are built upon piles; and thefe fo numerous, and fixed there at fo excefTive a charge, that Mr. Evelyn fays, feme report that the foundations of their houfes cofl: as much as what is eredted on them. L E Y t) E N. T EYDEN is a fine and very pleafant city ; it has not fo great •*-' a hurry of bufinefs as the two laft mentioned have. The fame of its univerfity, particularly for the ftudy of phy- fick, is known to every body; and the learned profefibr, E)r. Bcerhaave, is a great ornament to it. Their phyfic-garden is not large, but is copioufly furnifhed with curious plants. Anatomy- I" the anatomy-fchool are great variety of fkeletons, of men, fcliool. women, and animals. Some urns, lamps, &c. common elfe- vvhcre. They Hiew there what they call a Remora, and other natural curiofities, of which they give a printed catalogue. The Remora, if this be one, k a fmall round fifh, with a tail and head fomewhat like a bird, the fl<in prettily marked in hexagons. It is faid to flop fhips in their courfe, from whence it has its name. Burgh. What they call the Burgh is a low round tower, or the re- mains of a higher ; it has now no covering, and is faid to be an antient Roman fabrick : but it feems much more modern, if the brick- work which is formed into arches round the infide of it, be of equal date with the reft. A labyrinth of hedges now fills the area, with an arbor in the centre : they told me it was formerly a guard to a pafs of the Rhine, which then run between that and the town. It ftands on a little afcent. Monfieur HAGUE. 513 Monfieur de laCour, a gentleman of Leyden, a very curious and obliging perfon, has a fine colleftion of pidures, molt of them of the Dutch mafters, and fome flower-pieces done by a female artift [I have forgot hername] whicli are exceeding good. Befide the garden adjoining to his houfe, he has a large one, at fomediilance, in which he is particularly curious, for raifing the bell of ail forts of fruits. lie had grapes ripe in May ; when we were there in June, they were all gone, and the leaves brown as in autumn. The heat of the Itoves, which accelerate them, is regulated by thermometers. He raifes the ananas, and fe- veral other curiofities. He treated us with excellent wine ; nor was his water a lefs compliment ; the fountains playing all the while in a large bafon, which is not very frequent in the Dutch gardens ; for, the country being flat, the water is all raifed by Ibrcci not without a confiderable expence. HAGUE. np H E Hague is the gentceleft town in Holland ; this is tiie ■*■ place for thofc who have eftates to fpend, as the great trading ones are the places to get them in. It is called only a village, but it is a mofl: beautiful one; and the feveral ways that lead to it, whether by land or water, are as pleafant as can be imagined. The houfe of the princes of Orange, called the IVIaifon du Bois, becaufe it ilands in a wood, is a little way out of town, and is a mod pleafing retirement j it has a great deal of painting, and fome very good. From the Hague to Scheveling, a little fiilier-town by the fea-fide, the road, about a mile in length, is perfetflly like a walk in a garden, raifed in the middle, and finely planted on each- fide; and in the midway is a circular area, very prettily adorned. From Rotterdam, we went out one day to Tergauw, a pretty Tcrgav. town, and well peopled ; the raoft remarkable thing there is the great church, famous for its windows of fiained glafs. They are one and thirty in number ; the fuljcds painted in them are hi (lories, fcriptural and otiiers ; one of them was given by K. Philip and Q^ Mary of England : the upper part r?pre- 5T4 T E R G A U W. ROTTERDAM. fcnts the confecratlon of Solomon's Temple ; the lower, the Laft Supper. The way from Rotterdam thither, which is about twelve miles, is all paved with clinkers*, adorned with trees on each hand (many of them chefnuts), and country-feats of the citi- zens of Rotterdam, &c. For variety, we returned by another road, over a narrow high-raifed w^.y, along the fide of the ri- ver Ylfel, which we croffed in a ferry. There are in the United Provinces three towns of refuge, called (as I remember) YfTelfirein, Vianen, and Cuilemburg. Thefe v/ere once an afylum to all offenders, as we were told, and are ftill fo to fome ; but the moft enormous, as murderers, burners of houfes, &c. have now no refuge in them. We paffed in fight of the firft of them in our return from Tergauw to Rotterdam. The criminals in Holland are executed in the great towns, immediately after fentence, without being remanded to prifon, as with us, and in prefence of the magiftrates; for which pur- pofe fcaffolds are erefted, adjoining to the town-houfes, and are generally removed when the execution is over ; but in fome they remain, as at Haarlem, Tergauw, &:c. and where they do fo, we were told it is an indication that no perfon was ever known to have fufFered wrongfully in fuch places. If this be really the cafe, it feents a fort of flur upon the others ; theiefore I would rather fuppofe they have fome other reafon for it. As foon as the execution is over, the bodies are carried out of town, and expofed near the publick road in fuch manner as they were executed, whether on gallows or wheel, 6cc. and there they remain till they rot away: and it is the fame in Germany. But I have been told, that thofe that are beheaded are buried, without being expofed. The women are not hanged, but flrangled : the manner is thus ; the woman is placed with her back up to a port, and' a cord is put about her neck, and drawn through a hole in the pof!:, and there twifted with a flick, till (he is llrangled, and flie is then left. We faw feveral of them ib expofed, hard byDelpht. I have been told that it was once * A fort of nnrow bricks which rie made on purpofe for pavino-, and arc ofccn brought into England for that p.iipofc, r.iid called here Flanders bricks'. ROTTERDAM. H E L VO E T-S LU Y S. 5^5 t'le hard lot of a poor young fellow there to be obliged to /Iran- gle hi<; own fweetheart : his love, and concern, and rcluiftancv, lb diftraifled and enfeebled him, that he was much unable to perform his office, and fo put the poor creature to twice the pain that one who had Icv'd her lefs would have done. When we were at Rotterdam we went to vifit that ingenious and niolt indefatigably curious artill, Mr. Vanderweif, [fince dead] and faw fcvcral of his performances : as his chief per- fcdion was in the finilliing part, he would not let us fee anv thing of his work but what was finiflied. Cardinal Ottoboni had got one of his pieces at Rome, and made Signor Trev.ifani do one of the fame fize for a trial in that elaborate way, and they were both expofed together among other pivftures at a publick feaft of one of the convents *. It was no diigrace to Milton not to have rhymed like Dryden ; and he knew better things than to have entered upon fuch a trial. We faw as many of Mr. Flinck's admirable colledion of drawings as could he well feen in about three hours. He was a very obliging gentleman ; his toIlc6tion upon his de- ceafe was bought by the duke of Devonlhire. We were detained fome time in Rotterdam by contrary windf, and fet fail at laft with the wind atS.W. in theWilliam and Mary yatcht, Capt. Mofcs commander. We lelt Rotterdam July 5, N. S. about ten in the morning, and could not reach Helvoet- Sluys till the eighth about four in the morning : there we were detained by winds diredtlv contrary till the thirteenth, when about four in the morning we fet fail again with the wind S. W. in hopes of a favourable change with the new moon ; but it continued llill fo violently contrary, that we came not to Grays till the fixteenth, and in the night to Greenwich, where we left the yatcht on the fevcnteenth, and arrived in the boat at the Tower of London, about ten o'clock in the morning. Our captain told us, that in forty years that he had ufed the fea, he did not remember to have had fuch a fummer's voyage. • It is a cuftom at the feads of the convents or other focieties, to have fine rith hangings, and fine piflures, which their friends lend 'cm upon the occafion, hung up in the nioft confpicucus places of their convent, fee. Vol. II. U A 5-i6 L O N D O N. As we were drawing near home, I was reading in tlie yat(.ii^ Guarini's P^?/?<?r Fido, and coming to that fpeech of Carino in the beginning of the fifth adl, where he fets forth the pleat- ing fentiments he had upon his arrival in his native country ; I found myfelf fo much interefled in it, that I attempted parto£ it in EngUfli, with the change only of Britain for Arcadia.. O, da me piu d' ogti altra amata e caroy P'lii d' ogn' altra gentil terra d' Arcadia, Che CO I pie tocco, e con la mente inchino \ Se ne conjini tuoi, madre gentile, Fojf' io giunto a chiuji occhi, anco f havrei Troppo hen conofciiito, cofi tojlo M' e corfo per le vene iin certo amico Confentimento incognito e latente. Si pien di tenerezza, e di diletio, Che r hafentiio in ogni Jibra ilfangue. Hail fairefl: Britain ! whom L prize above AH other lands, and whom I deareft love; Hail fweeteft native ifle ! whofe much-lov'd (hores My ravifh'd feet now touch, and foul adores ; Had I been blind-fold on thy confines thrown. Thee, thee, dear foil, by inftindt I had known. Such a foft, friendly, fecret fympathy Strait ran thro' ev'ry vein, and witnefs'd thee, A more than filial fondnefs feiz'd my breaft. And ev'ry fibre my delight confefs'd. N ■ 1 >v i A GENERAL ALPHABETICAL INDEX TO BOTH V o U M E S. A. ABBEVILLE, odd drefs there, ^ Page i IVoollen manufacture there, 2 Abbey cf St. Denys, 4 Abraxas, magical Jlones, fome ac- count of than, .415 Academy of St. Luke at Rome, French, 234 \cailemies at blorence, 428,429 Academical performance in church, 450 Ad ICE \i-iver'\ head of it ^ j\.^6 Advocates /« Paris, 'their irarns Agrippina, her fuppofed tomh., 184 AIX, a -parliament town, 1 4 Alb AN lake, cutlet of it, 370 Alb AN I [Card.'\ his colleSlion of fculptures, ^ i z Albano, 370 Albero d'Oro, a ftory concern- ir.g it, 43 Aldrovandiis's manvfcripts, iHyzolumes, 442 Alexander VII. copper Jiatue of hivt at Ravenna, 1 1 1 Algidtts, Mount, 370 Alps, 493, & feq. home up, b Highcfl afcent cf them in the 'Ti- /Enigmatical epitaph near Bologna, rol-road, 496 447 Akar cf St. Pafhal, 247 I'olian hills, 128 Altars, }ncjl rich ajid fine, 224 -i. Agatha [tczn;:] 146 Alt IE p. I palace, 316 \gli bolus and MalachbeluSy repre- Amphitheatre, at Capua, 146 fenting fun and moon, 332 at Mnturn^, 145 U 2 Air, The GENERAL INDEX. Amphitheatre. Small remains of one at Padua. 36 at Rimini, 1 1 8 at Rome, 350 at Verona, 48 1 AMSTERDAM, 509 Ccccb -bodies draii-n- ~ on 512 Exchange, ib. Stadt-haufe,, 509 Tiles, numler of them under the Stadt-hciife, 5 1 1 Sfin-hcufe, ib. Streets furprizing!y fine, 509 Annunciata [church] at Genoa, 25 [Alonaflery'] at Naples, 1 54 Ante-nor, his fuppcfed remains and' tomb at Padua, 42 Av:'viA^i, at Bologna, what, 449 Antiquities at Ancona, 120 at Capua, i j^ at Lions, 10 at Milan. 464 at Mola\rcrmi,c\ 138 <?/ MinturniC, 145 about N/iples, 1 74, ^ 7^7. at. N ami, 130 rt/ Orange, 13,^20 fi/P.^^fi, 388 «/ Riraini, 1.1 8 //^<?«z, 257 ^/ Spoleto, 1 2 6 at Verona, 481^^84 at Utricoli, 1 3 2 Antonio [St.] called at. Padua, {nccr lioxn,) il Santo, 36 Atomatick fcmt from his dead body, _ 37 Great devotion paid to it, ib. Portrait of him, and what age died at., ib. School of St. Antonio, 3 8 Aiiracles done by him., ib. &: 1 04 His cell at Rimini, 1 1 9 Apartments [bejl] up two pair of flairs in palaces at Venue, 74 Apothcofis of Antoninus and Fdu- flina, 254,348 of Hojner, 307 Appennine mountains, 124,432, 43 J rcprefented in fculpture, 430 ArpiAX IVay, how old, 135 prefenti condition of it, ib. Appius Claudius, antique infc'rip- ticn concerning him, 4 1 7 Aqueduft, antique, at Minturn^,, •45 at Rome, 257^3^2 at SifOleto, 126- Aquinas [S. fho.'\ a M: S. of him ejleemed a precious r click, 152 Crucifix which fpoke to him, 153 Ara Coeli, 244 Arch, antique, white marble., at Ancona, upon what account a-ecled, 120 Arches Triumphal. Vide triumphal Arches. h.KQO FELICE at Cum^, 182 Armenian Church, 66,253 hai-e. fome Cufioms the fame as the Greeks, 66 in. the principal points are per- fealy Romiflj, 6y Arms of Marfcilles, what antiently,. and. what now, 1 5 of. Sienna, 377 Arras-hangings in the Vatican, 271 Arrefts in- Paly, by whom perform' d, 100 Arfenal [great] at Venice, 80 [little] S7 Occafion of ereSling it, 58 Allies fprinkkd on the people, 90 Remark upon it, ib. Ave Maria //w^, what, 103 Avernus [Pacus] 181 AUGS- The GEN E R A L I N D E X. AUGSBURGII, Jlatues in the principal Jtreets, 498 • Hotel de VilU, ib. Secret gate, and machinery em- ployed in it, ib. Water towers and barracks, 4^9 Odd dreffes, 500 fire extinguijljed by a new experi- ment, ib. Au c u s T L- s, mo-fed at Oelitri, 1 j 3 His bridge at Narni 1 3 i AVIGNON, fne walls there, 1 + Not ejleemcd a part of France, ib. AUXERRE, excellent wine there. BAjamonte Ticpolo, his conspi- racy,. ' 5'- Bai^., iSj Cajile built there in the time of Charles V. 184 Scleral antique remains in its neighbourhood, ib. iiiSj Baptillery- of Conjlantine, 2 ; 8 at F if a, 382 at Pifloia, 39 2 at llorence, 396 Barberigo [/W.J at Venice, fir.e paintings there, 76 Barberini palace, 289 I'illa, 3 7 1 Barigello, captain of the Slirri, a band of men who arrefi crimi- nals, 100 Barnabotes, a name given to the poor noble Venetians, and why, 0' Bafilics, what, i<y) Bafilinc, 471,48^ Baftides, country-houfes about Mar- feilles^ 14, Bavarja [confines of\ ^(jg Bauli, 185 Bears and wolves infefling roads, T, • "^^-^ Bcauvais, two fine churches built by the Englijh, . 3 Choir efteemcd the befl in France, ib. Vineyards thereabouts, 4 Beggars mojl importunate at Lor etc, 124 Begging, an odd way of it, 126 B E N E D I CI- 1 .V F. s, convent of, at Fi- efa in Tirol, 49 7 Another near Donawert, 500 Bentivoclio family, anniverfary of their expulfton from Bologna, and upon what account, 45 1 Bergamo, 478 Bevelacq^ua [Pal.'] at Fenara, 105 Bianchi [Signr.'] at Venice, fine paintings there, 79 Bianchi [Sig/ir.l at Florence, gal- lery-keeper to the Cr. Duke, 398- Bill of health, vide Fcde. Bifhops attending as porters at the doors of the pope's apartments, 276 BlefTing, Greek and Latin, manner of doing it, 162 Bleffing of houfes, 80 of holy water, ib. Bocca della ^'erita, 253 The common account ef it corretl- cd by Fabretti, ib. Body preferved 250 years, and nails grow, i^c. as pretended, 43^ Boetius, J»/V tonjb and infcripion, 477 a faint at Pavia, ib. has lione a miracle, ib. BOLOGNA, its fituation, 4U lUJ} grounds about it, ib. BO- The G E N E R EOLOGNA. Portico's along the jlrccts, 434 Palaces, general look of thera, ib. Paintings in Bologna, there pre- ferred to thofe in Rome, 435 Convents magnificent, ib. S. Mich, in Bofco, ib. Carthufmns, ib. PiSlure, an odd one, 436 Body of S. Kath. Vigri prcferved 2 ^o years, &c. ib. Meridian line, 437 Bank for lending money to the poor, 440 Jnjlituto, ib. Palace, [pul>lick] 442 Ranuzzi,, jb. F'antiuci, ib. Pepoii, 443 Caprara, ib. San Pieri, ib. Favi, ib. Bcnfiglioli Sena tor 10, ib. Zani, 444 Bonfiglioli di Galiera, ib. Belucci [^banker'] ib. Bolognini, 445 il'/c/rff, 'ib. Albergati, ib. Portico, three miles long, 446 ■Gonfalonier, his office, 448 ylntiani, 449 iCardinal legate, ib. Zp/j appearance in pnhlick, 450 Bentivoglio-fajnily , anmverfarj of their expulfion from Bo- logna, • ««</ w; k;/.'^/ account, 45' Marq. Paleoti, his execution in England, what rejietlion it oc- cafioned at Bologna, ■ ib. Beys, poor arJ naked, great num- ,lers of thctn, and from what canfe, ib. 2 A L INDEX. BOLOGNA. Children devoted from the womb, drejfed as fri- ars, and why, 451 Bolognele nobility, how manage their ejlatcs, ib. Bologna, a place of free conver- fation, 45 i BOLSENA, 374 Odd figures on a farcophagus there, ib. BoRGHESE palace, i()i njilla, 340 BoRGO S. Domino, a new convent of Jefuits there, 45 7 Bounds of Venetian territory and papal, J 03 Papal and Neapolitan, 1 3 b Papal and Tufcan, 3 74 Bolognefc and Modenefe, 432 Duke of Parmci's and Milanefe, 45 « Mlanefe and Venetian, 47 8 Venetian and Trent ine, 492 Bavaria, 498 Boys, poor and naked, great numbers of them at Bologna, from what canfe, 45 1 Bracciano palace, 308 Brazen gates at Venice, 5 1 at Lorcto, 124. at St. Peter's, Rome, feme odd figures in them, 2 1 o at St. John Lateran, 2 1 6 at the ter,iple of Romulus and Remus, 255 ai Pi fa, 381 at Florence, 396 Brenner, higbejt part cf the Alps in Tirol-road, 496 BRESCIA, 578 governed by a podefla, ib, its fitualioa, ib. cajlle, ib. vafi: fwellings on the throat fre- quent, 4r9 BRKS- The G r. N E R BRESCIA. Number of hifjAhi^ Hints, 480 Brick floors in palaces of Italy ^ evc/i in the iti-Jl apcrlmenls., 198 Bridges at yeuicc, above 400 cf them, 4 ; Bridge off.ghs, ^^ Bridge of marble at Rimini^ 1 1 8 at Narni, 1 3 1 Pons Milvius vozv Fonts Mo'iU; 133 Bridge [fo called] of Caligula, \^j Bridge, artificial riiin^ by Bernini, 293 cf Ammanati at Florence, cyclcid arches, 293 Brixen', tiiofi delicate bread there, 496 Biicentaur [^/ ^tv;/«] 81 Buckler ii?/rcV, 12 Buftaloes, 32,134 Bulla Aurea, zvbat, 346 Bulls beheaded at Venice, 8 8 the account given of the rife of this cuftom, ib. Bur CELLO, a vcffel fcr conveyance from Padua tc Voiice, 43 Burial-place cf the French kings, 4 Burning dead bodies ccntrtiued after the time of the Jntonines, proved from an infcription, ifc. 3 1 9 Burning mountain, 1 63, & feq. C-SciLiA [St.'] her body, a hun- dred lamps burning before it, 241 her ftcty cxprcffcd in painting, 24-1,249 CjE CILIA Crass I, her nwnument, 255 Crtcuban zvine, 144 G.tcubus Agcr, where, 145 C.9-sriAR!!, S' 3^335-3'^^ A I. I N D F, X. ^ C/EsiuM, yHolinn hills ("bei^^ 'Sn account of them, 12 b' Cajeta, its fituation, 14^ K'jik cf marble rent, as f aid, at the death of our Saviour, ib. yl pretended modern miracle there, ib. Charles of Bourbon his Jkcleton, 14^ l afc ani'.'iue, ib. MuNATius Plancus, Us fc- pulchral monument, ib. Calais, an odd drefs there, i. C A L I c u L A ' J bridge, -ujhat, 185 Calvinifts in Holland, lie. have or- gans in their churches, 505 Camaldoli [hermits of] their entertainment of us, 1 64 their xvay of living, and rules of their order, rb. & 1 6 ^ Camels, machines for raifing of fhips funk, 82 Campania felix, 147 Campo's at Venice, ivhat, 47 Camvo S.\tiTO at Pifa, 382 Canals the great Jlrects of Venice, 47 Canal Orphan o at Venice, ichy fo called, 95 Canal of ^x miles, from Candian to Ravenna, 1 o r Canal from the Po to Ferrara, 104 Canal cf eighteen miles from Cento to Ferrara, 107 Canal Biancho, 103 Cancellaria, 280 Candlellick, golden, of the temple at jerttfalem, reprcfentation of it, . 34S Canons cf churches, noble, at Lions, 9 at Cologn, 504 C A p E L Lo's [fenator cf Venice] fine coilecHon of curioftties Peitn with ccurtefy^ 77 Capitol, The GENERAL INDEX. Oapiiol, 319 Capo di Bove, 356 Caprea [ijlaiui] i^§,iy6 Capua, 146 Ruifis of an ctmphi theatre there, ib. Capua, its antient glory, 147 dejtroyed by its cjun luxmy, 14!^ Caraffa {^Palace '] at Naples, 2.5% Head, i^c. of a 'brazen hcrfe there, and kiftory of it, ib. ■Cardinals, Englifij, buried at Rome, 240 Cardinals, ca-vakade, and hats de- . liver ed to them, 275 Cardinal protestor in P.ome to all nations, 301 Cardinal de Medici, infcription on his coffin, 423 Cardinal legate at Bologna, ^4.c) his appearance in puhlick, 450 Cerlo [5/.] great veneration paid to him at Milayi, 460 his earlj religion, 476 Carmen AmcEbasum, 0,6^ Carnaval, Venetian, '^6 Bolognefe, 442 CARRARA, rocks of vjhite mar- ble there^ 27 Carrara \Francefco'\ tyrant of Pa- dua, hc-j} tifed by the Venetians, ■ 58 Carriages /« Lw«i^^ri^y, ^c. 32 Carthulians, feme account of this order, 156,435, 62:43 6 their convent at Naples, 155 at P.ome, ^^7 at Bologna, 435 at Povia, 475 Carvings in wood admirable, 443 Cafcade, the great one near Terni defcribed, iiy Castellani a7id Nicolati, t%vo adverfe parties in Vem^e^ ,90 Castello Guelfo, 457 Callle at Erefcia, 479 at Cajeta, 144 at Bai,e, 184 ■ at Radicofani, 374 at Milan, 469 Catacombs at Naples, a defcription of them, i§q at Rome, 243,356 Catharina, v. Katharina. Cattolica [tow?!] gutted by Turks of goods and inhabitants, 120 Caution of the Italians againfi in- fection, loi, & 1 20 CENTO, chiefy famous for the paintings of Guercino, 106 Chiarelli, [Cav.] his houfe, ib. Cento Camerelle, 184 Cervia, a little city, ivhere they make fait, :i 1 2 Cesenate, anticntly dffena, ib. Chain \St. Peter's] 232 Chain [golden] of Jupiter, 3 1 8 Chains hung up on gates of Genoa, and the reafon, 26 Chalk, houfes and churches built of It, 3 Q\i^\x of St.Pctcr, 207 ofpopeJoan,zvhat itrjsas, 217 CHALONS, 7^,8 Chancellor of the apofiolick fee, 28.1 Chapel of Monte di Pieta, 231 s of Sixtus V. andl c5 ofPaulusV. J ^°° ■^ of S. Terefa, .226 cf S. Lorenzo atSkrence, 422 of Mich. Angela, 423 Chafteau de Pilate, .13 Chaftity, a priefl remarked as emi- nent for it, 30 Cheilnuts, great woods of them, 22 Bread made of the fruits, ib. Cm A I A, afuhurb of Naples, 1.74 Chici The Q E N K R A L I N D lil X. Cm CI [princeyierfdUarf! ^pvernifiy of the cohddve^ '194 ptilaccy 396 Children devoted from the -lifomb^ drefj'ed as friars, and Ki'hy, 45 1 CHIOGGIA, a hiflieprick, has a fodejia, fituated fomcwhat like Ve- nice, lOI La Chiusa, a difficult pa fs, 492 Choir at Beauvois efieemed the bcji in Friuue, 3 Cryllal ir/Zt'/j cwioufly adorned, 413 Christixa, Sl^ of Sweden, her tomb, 1 1 o Chriltoplier \St.'\ a movflrous ftaiue of him, 6 foint of his finger, what a lady fiid concerning it, 52 Church [yli-menian] 66,253 V. Armenian. [EngHjh] at Rotterdam, 508 the frfl Chrifiian one in France, 17 IGreek] 63 v. Greek. Churclics at Florence, 393,394 t-ivo fine ones at Beativaii built by the Englifi:), 3 at Genoa, 24^25 at Lions, 9 at 'Naples, 1 5 o, & feq . 46 1 , & feq. at Padua, 37, & feq. at Rome, i-ide Rome. at Venice, 50,59,61,72 on fea-coafts, how eutituled, 20 Eaftwardfituation of churches not obferved in Italy, 126 Cicero, his villa's, 138,365 CiCERONES, a jocular term for the under fort of antiquaries, 177 CiNCTus Gabinus, 309 Vol. II. Circunicifion ho-jj performed at Ve- nice, 68 CjRcus Maximus, 351 Citadel, at Brefcia^ 478 at Final, 22 at Savona, 2 ? CiTTADiNi, citizens inVenice,-u-hat, 98 Clement XI. \_Pope]fome accoimt of him, 190 Climace pcrfc^ly changed all of d fudden, 14,496 Cloac.ne at Rome, ^60 Clock, famous one at Lions, 9 at Pavia, 477 Coach- bodies drawn on fledges, 512 COBLENTZ, 503 Cock \ft. Peter's] turned info brafs, fo believed by common people, 2 1 7 Coo LI ON 1 [Bartolomeo] general of the Venetians, equcftral ftatue of him, 73 ColleclionsofCuriorities,Pi(5lures, ^c. IH VENICE. At the entrance into the publick li- brary, 60 Pal. Grimani, i^c. 76 Senators, Sacredo and Capello, jy Signior Giovanni Battijla Rota, an advocate, 7 ^ Signior Natale Bianchi, a merchant, 79 In ROVIGO. At Count Sylvejire's, lOj /;/ CENTO. At Cavalier Chiarelli's, 1 06 In NAPLES. Pal.Caraffa, 158 In ROME. All the palaces and villa's which I have taken notice of; for the par- ticulars of which, fee Tit. ROME. X Col- The GENERAL INDEX. CoUeftions of Cviriofities, ^c. Roman College, 3 1 2 Card. Jll/ani's, ib. Signior Antonio Borioni, an apo- thecary, 283 In FLORENCE, draivings. Of the great duke's, 4 1 6 At Caval. Gaburri's, 42 8 In BOLOGNA. At Sign. BonfiglioWs, 444 At Sign. Belucci's, ib. In FARMA. The duke's paintings, 454 dra'-ji'ings, 456 In MILAN. Amhrofian Library, 468 Marq^. Cafenedi, 470 Count Fcrieri, 47 1 Galleries of piElures, 469 College Roman, 3 1 2 Curicftties there, ib. COLOGNE, 503 Squares there, ib. Women go veiled, ib. Dome, 504 Canons there all princes or counts, ib. Bodies of the Magi, ib. Their names, ib. Befi Genevre fold here, 505 CoLONNA, /^/rtf^ and gallery, 305 Office of this prince, 307 COLORNI, <? ^/?^/ c/ /^? Jz^^f c/ Parma, 457 COLUMNA MiLLIARIA, 320,388 Concha [nwr] 119 Conclave /or the cle"ion of a pope, 190 Sitting long, hoivferved by the guardian or governor, 194 Conclavifts have each their feparate cell, 193 Clofely made up, and ave- nues ti thent'tvatckid, ' 94 Confraternity for the dead, 472 for criminals at execution, ib. Vide Schools. Confiftory for delivering of bats to new cardinals, 275 Subjlance of Jpeeckes on that occafton, 276 Don Alex. Albani's remarks on them, 277 Confpiracy of Bajamonte Tiepclo, 53 Convents magnificent. at Bologna, 435 at Milan, 466,472 at Naples, 155 at Pavia, 475 Corno [doge's] the pretended ori- gin of it, 53 Corona Radiata, 402 Muralis, ib; Coronation of pope, vide Pope. Cote rote wine, iz- Council of Ten at Venice, a terrible magiflracy, g^ Country very fine betweenLions and Marfeilles, 1 4 Countiy gentlemen, Italians have no 710 1 ion of fuch, 98 Counti7 feats, France not fo full of them as England, 8 Country feats about Marfeilles, \ 4 Country f&ats in Italy, how differ from ours, 326 CREILSHEIMB, 501 Crofs, a huge one dragged ahng by a pilgrim, 29,217 Crofs [golden] at Lucca, a ftory about it, 391 Crucifixes, an advantageous fitua- tion of them for a beauti- ful vievj, 25 Speaking oti'.s, 152,447 Crucifixion, by Mich. Angela, of which they tell the oldflory, 1 5-5 The GENE R CUM.E, Vfry fnuill ymains of it above ground^ 182 Cujjola \great\ at St. Peter s at Rome, bozo adorned^ zc*) Side cupolas, ib. Cupola, the firft in Italy, ^1^4 of Padre Pozzo, 224. of Lanfranc, in cb. of And. in Valle, 226 of Correggia at Parma, 454. Curia Innocentiana, -548 Cuftom lioul'c, the place firjl vifited at Rome, and ivhy, i ^ :; CvBEi.E, bo^^v reprefented in fciilp- titre, 304 vjbat intended Ify fiich repre- fcntation, ib. Cyprus [^cro-jun of] how the Vene- : dans became pojfifj'ed of it, 54 J) DAs'TE, an odd fiory of him, 395 Danube [river] 1^00 Delphin'O [Pal.] at Venice, fine piilure of Holbein, called Sir Tho. Moore, 76 Denuncic Secrete at Venice, -^hat, 55 DENYS [^/.] abbey there, burial- place of French kings, 4 DiAKA Ephesia, hozv reprefented in fculpture, 304 Dii Indigetes, 238 DIJON, a parliament city, 8 Diligence [a jlage-coach] 1 3 J Dinner in Lent bcfpoke by feme friars, J 44 Difcipline, vide Scourging. Diverfions at Venice upon the wa- ter, 98 Doge of Venice, has very little power, 94 the reftraint be is under, i b. A L I X D E X. Doge, the revenues of his cffict rarely anfv:er the cxpeikts of it, ib. the ancient families not fond cf accepting it, ib. the concern of a dogcfs upon her hujband's clcfliou, g^ a dcge beheaded, r^o a doge hanged, ib. Doge's palace, 54 no other than the palace of the republick, 50 Doge's Corno, the pretended origin of it, 53 DoMENico [St.] his church at Na- ples, 152 Don A WERT, French intrenchments near it, 500 Donne Sponfate, ivhat, 98 DoRT, 506 Drcls, an odd one at Calais., \ Drertes at /iugjlurgh, 500 of noble Venetians, 92 i?/ the noble ladies, 9 -] of the private laomen, u 4 of the courtezans, ib. Spaniflj at Naples and Mi- Drinking for born by the Italians, 373 l^rum [river] i 3 Duke of Marlborough, vide Marlborough. DUSSELDORP, joj Equejlral Jlatues there, ib. Dutch., their indupy, 506 EArth of Jerufaletn, a pretended property of it, 383 Eaftward fituation of churches not cbferved in Italy, 1 2 6 Echo, the famous one near Milan, ^'^ no great matter in it, 474 X 2 EcloguC; The GENERAL INDEX. Eclogue, performance in manner of aricknt eclogue, 363 Ecftafy, faints in one, thro" muftc of angel, frequent fubjeB of pic- tures in Italy, 107 Eleftion, of pope, vide Tope. Elvsjan Fields, 184 EmbryoV, icv/^ one bead and two ladies, 472,488 Emperors \Rom.'\ their hifi. and effigies, MS. 270, per 0£l. Strada, 427 Encampment of French before the battle of Blenheim, 49 8 En'glish beauties, copies of them at Poggio Lnperiale, 429 English, church at Rotterdam, 508 English, cardinals buried at Rome, 240 the language underflood at Leghorn by many of the naffoes, 378 King pretended to he buried at Lucca, 391 tho' proteflants, have right of burying in a church at Padua, 41 Prince marries princefs Or- fola, afterivards a faint, 73 Prince fet forth as founder of a noble family at Bologna, 443 Englifli men, pictures of them at Floreiice, 40 1 , 405,42 1 Epigram on Lions by Scaliger, 10 on Venice by Sanazarius, 46 Equality [appearame of] affetJed among the noble Venetians, 9 1 Equipage, fine, not allsKved amfing noble Venetians, ib. Evangelifts, two of them buried in St. Ciufiina's church at Padua, 40 Executions, two remarkable ones at Paris, 6 Executions in Holland^ 514 Exorcilm at Rome,^ 227 FAbius Maximus, antique in- fcription concerning him, 4.18 Falconieri, governor of Ro'me, fince Cardinal, 364 Falernian wine, 177 Farnese marbles, 2^5 Fakuzse palace, 2S2 Hercules, ib. Gladiator there, what com- monly called, 283 Cronovius's opinion concern- ing it, ib. Villa Farnefe, 3^6 Alex. Farnefe, his hijiory painted, 287,457 Statues of him, ib. Little Farnefe Palace, 287 Fede, double, bill of health and of Jicknefs, 111 a merry formality attending the latter, ib. Fede received at the end of a long reed and fmoaked, 120 Felucca, a boat iifed for coafting /« the Mediterranean Sea, is'c. 23 FE R R AR A, fairfireets thinly peo- pled, 104 the reafon of it affigned, 1 05 jchool of our Lady of the Circttmcifion, fine paint- ings, 1 04 Pal. Bevelacqiia and Dia- mond Palace, 1 05 names of fir angers fent to the governor, ib. penalty of fending a falfe name, Tre Tratte di Chorda : the manner of it, ib. FER- The G E N E R FERRARA, equejlralftatuesthere^ ib. FiCL's Indica, 134,447 FiESA \jn Tirol,'] a convent of Be- ttedi^Jmssfiere, 497 FINAL, a mdeltbere, 22 FioRENZA, Pal. in Rome, 316 FlORENZOI.A, 433 Fires extinguijhed by a new experi- ment, 500 Fires ijfiiing out of the ground, 432 Firr-poles -placed at doors of cbief- 7na^iftrates at Lions, 9 and of young women at Mem- dingen, 500 Flax fet on fire before the new pope. Flies, Jh'.nnig, 230 Floating-mills, 104 FLORENCE, its fituation on the river Arm, 393 Bridge of marble, cycloid arches, ib. Palaces in general, ib. Churches in general, ib. and 394 Dome, its outfide overlaid ■iiith marble, 394 Cupola, the firfl in Italy, Jludied by Mich. Angela, ib. Marble tower by Giotto, 395 Bnptijlety, ancienlly a tem- ple of Mars, 396 Gallety of Great Duke, a vafi magazine of rarities, . ib. the figure of it, ib. Order of the fiatues in it, 397 Farther account of the gal- lery and curioftties in it, ib. to 418 The Old Palace^ 418 A L INDEX. FLORENCE, gallery half a mile long, 4 , 9 Palazzo Pitti, ib. Riccardi, 424 Strozzi, 42^ Ridolfi, 427 Buonarota, ib. Gierini, ib. Cafa Gaddi, 427 Chapel of S. Lorenzo, ^iz Libraries, ib. Chapel of Michael Angela, 423 Academies, 42 8,42 9 Entertainment at one of them, ib- Taxes high at Florence, 429 Cofmo III. feme account of him, ib. Poggio Imperiale, ib. Pratolino, 430 FOLIGNO, Convent of Nuns, and fine picture of Raphael, 124 Fontico de i Teciefciii, a general ivarehoufe of the Germans in Venice, a great rent paid for it, 75 painted on the oulftde by Titian, ^c. ib. Force of Hercules, afijeiv fo called, 89 FORMIC, 13S Cicero had a villa there, ib. Doubtful whether that fheiin for it were it, ib. The more ancient names of For - mix, 139 L.tfttygons brought by Homer, i^c. into the part between this and Cajeia, ib. &c 141 Fort Urbano, ' 451,452 Forum Nerv.^e &TRAJAN1, 258 Foundations of cities, ceremonies at marking (hm, 309 Foua- i,he G E N E.R A:L I N D E X. Fownt^ain <7/ J?/y<!r(7, 120 . in "Rome, vide Rome. Fountains in Paris, ... 5 Fr A Paolo the Seyjite, fome of bis maxims of gove-niment, 95 F.RAN'CFORT, Lutbcvan church . there, woz Frankincenie ivafted in chambers at ', firji entrance, and wh^, 494 F.KiiNCH encampment before [the bat- tle of Blenheim, 41^ 8 F^zyscH intrenchments near Dona- sjjert, 500 Frescati, the ancient T'lifculiim, Friars, a I.enten dinner befpoke by them, ivhat, 144 Fritillus \T)ice-box'\ antiq^. 404 Frogs [fricajfee of] 1 ^ F>Dnts of hciifes built inclining in . Holland, and the reafon given for , 'V, 509 PVuit-trees on road fides, between Lions and Marfeilles, 14 ylbout S. Remo, 20 About Cento, 107 Fundi, 137 Tiberius faid to have been born there, but Suetonius dijjents, lb. Funeral Monuments of ancients, how adorned, 237 Funeral Rites of ancient Romans, an account of them. from old in- fcriptions, 385 G Acinus Cinctc'5, 309 Galea, born mar Terra- cina, 137 where killed, 257 ■.Galeafies [at V enice] perfect floating cajllesy 82 Giallery of Luxemburg, 5 Gallery in Vatican, 266,2^8 Colonna, 305 of great duke at Florence, 396 another, half^j^fi mile long, 419. : ■ , at-Modena, 452 at Parma, 454 at Milan, 469 Galleys aiid Galley- (laves. Vide Slaves. Gardens of Tbuilleries, 5 of Ver failles, lb. at Padua, 41 of the Belvedere, 273 of villa's in Rome, i£c. ge- neral account of them, 327 Pen/lie on Portico's, ^jt at Verona, 486 at LeyAen, 5 1 3 Garicliono [river] anciently Li- ris, J 45 Gaie, fecret, at Augfhurgh, 498 Gates . to a. church, of kine-plank, 108 Gates of k-afs, at Venice, 5 1 at Lcreto, 124 at St. Peter's, Rome, odd figures in them, 2 1 o at St. John Later an, 2 1 6 at "Temple of Romulus and Remus, 255 at Pi fa, 381 at Florence, gg6 Gaurus [Mount] lyy GENOA. Palaces there extremely noble, of marble, 24 Streets narrow, ib. Painting on outfide ofhoufes, how at Genoa, ib. An objeSiion againji that kind confidered, ib. Churches there, 25 An nun ci at a, ib. GE- The G E N E R GENOA, churches there. S. Philippo Neri, ib. 5, Cire, ib. S. Ambrofe, ib. S.y^l^ria di Carignano, ib. Chains hung on gates, and the reafon of it, 26 Rojlruniy an antique one, ib. An odd law againji fodomj[ at Genoa, 27 GENSANO, 37 ^ Gentleman and Nobleman, terms ' convertible in Venice, 9 7 Gentleman, what notion fame of the Venetians and other Italians have of that -word, 9 8 George, the great faint of the Greek church, 63 GERMANY, its refemblance to England, 500 Ghetto, 31 & 68 GiMiNiANO [5/.] his church at Venice, S9 GiOGO, high fiimmit of Appennincs, 432 Giorgio [5/.] his church and fine convent at Venice, 6i GiottoV tc-jjer at Florence,. 295 GiusTiNA [St.] her cbtirch at Par dua, 3 9 GiusTiNiANi Palace,. 302 Villa, 53 1 Glafles [Venice] inferior to Englilh, Golden Candlcftick./rw« tanplc of feriifalon, an autbentick rcpre- fentation of it, 348 Golden Crois at Lucca, 391 Gondola's of t 'enice, 4+ GontalDnicr of Bologna, his office, 448 a cci-emor.y at the (lc"ion of a new one, ib. A L INDEX. Good-Friday, folemnities on that day at Milan, 473 Government of Venice, 94, &: fcq. of Rome, 364 Granaries, /)«Wr'd', at Naples, 150 Gratuity for feeing a palace in Rome, well judged, 19 j Great council {hall of] at Venice.^. 56 Greek cliurch at Venice, defcription of it, 63 Account of their fervice, 64 wherein they ufe the fame cufloms as the Rcmifii church., 6§. and where- in not, 66 Grimani-family proprietors offeve- ral theatres in Venice, 83 Grimani [Palace] at Venice, fine paintings there,. y6 Grotta del Cane, 188 Experiments tried there, 189 Grotta Dragonara, 185 GvAi.Tiv.v.\, Pal. in Rome, 299 G U A S 1- A L L A [ ducl^ of] n GuASTiERi, an old palace of the duke of Modena there, ib. Guerra tie Piigni, an oitertainment in Venice, 90 G uinfana, a mm, an admirable finger, 473 Gattamei.ata, general of the Venetians, equefiral flatue ofhivi, 39. H H. AGL' E, the gentcelcfi town m Holland, 5 I ^ "ib. ib. Maifon du Bois, A beautiful road. A Deautijm roaa, id. I.Iair dreffcd by the Italian 'womeih, with aji agreeable variety, 1 00 ^ 1 1.U1 TIic G E N E R A'L l.N^D E X. Hall 'of great council' at P^enice^ 5^ of the college there^ 57 Hanau, 501 Hands and Feet, a houfe in Venice fo c-alled, and why, ' "' '■ 75 Hats delivered to carditifils, 275 Health [i^Hl of] vide Fede. Henry IV. his pillar at Rome, 222 H^'cmxts, of Camaldoli, 164,165 cf St. Oniiphrio, 230 of La irap, 430 Hermitage Wine, 13 Hills, Molian, winds iffuing out of ■ thein, 12S Hockham, Old Hock hence, 502 Holes in the walls of ihe amphi^ ■ theatre at Rome, hotv accouftted for 'by Sigr. Ficaroni, 355 Holy Houfe cf Loreto, defcription of it, t2i, &leq. Holy Image there, 122 Halv-water, ceremony of bleffing it, 80 Pr^valencycfit,]b.&C2Z4 offer-ed on road, .. iT^y HORATII &CURIATII, 358,37! HoRTENSius his villa, 185 Holpital, ^r^^/, in Milan, 468 Hofpitals in Venice for females, 79 Wives chofen cut of them,ih. Vide p. 154 J Fine mufical performances in thofe hofpitals, ib. Hotel de Ville of Lions, i o of Marfeilles, 1 5 of Augjhurgh, 498 of Amflerdam, 509 Houfes built inclining in Holland, and the reafon given for it, 509 Hurlach, 49 3 French encampment near it, ib. Hydraulics, 366 I. JEr u s A L E M -Earth , pretended pro- ■ ptrty of a, 383 Jewels in Treafury of St. Mark at ' Venice, 54 ' Jewels net to be worn by the tioble , ladies of yenice, except at certain ii?nes, 93 Jewifti women of Venice drefs as the noble ladies, , . 69,94 Jews in cities of Italy limited to in-^ . habit a particular dijiriff, called a Ghetto, 3 1 Synagogue at Leghorn, 3719 Illumination of S. Mark's church at I 'enice, 67, of S. Peter's at Rome, 2 10 Immaculate conception of B. Virgin contended for by tlpe Francifcans, and oppofed by the Dominicans, 450 Incruilation of walls with marble, the manner of it, 200 the fame in tife among the ancients, ib. Indigetes [Dk] 238 Infection, Caution of the Italians againjl it, 101,1,20 Information of offences againji (he ft ate, how received at Venice, ^^ Innocent XIII. of what family, an- tiquity of it, 193 His eleilion, i3c. Vide Pope. How accounted in Rome, 277 His anfwer to Cardinal Ro- han's fpeech at the delivery of hais to. new cardinals, 276 Great entertainments of mu- fick, is'c. in honour of him, 281,307 Inqui- The GEN E R A L I N D K X. Inquiluion, an emblem of it. 242 always in the hands of the Dominiauis, ib. Inquifuors of State at Venice, a terrible magijtrncy. 9!'' Jnfcriptions, to Lewis XIV. ' J lo Miidonna, jy in memory of a plague. 70 under antiq. lion at A 'eniie. Ol at the Rubicon, 113,115 at the boundary of kingdom of Naples, 136 at Mount Vefuvius, 1O6 to Pius V. 221 odd Latin and writing. 23+ /Efcutapio, 238 Hemoni Sanco, lb. de Ara Ccsli, 2+4 Claud: C/ff. 29? on an offuarium. 299 under head of Medufa, 306 3'9 Libera Path, 331 Conjugi, lb. Filio, ib. Fili.e, 332 llelnue [Fmperatrici] 339 fulij: Dcmin.e, lb. Divo Antonio, 347 Cecilix Craffi, 355 M. Plantio, 369 iS. Petro, in Grado, 2S0 Caio if> Lucio C/ff. 3S6 in Columnam Milliariam, 388 on two Vafa Cineraria, 417 Appio Cteco, ib. Fahio NIaximo, 418 en cardinal di' Media's cof. M 4-^3 Solo inbido mitre. 42 + L. Bciumnius Seberus, isc. ib. &c. Quidnam quid ranis, Vol.. II. ib. U\kr\puon<i,concerningiheAleridia>$ Line at Bologna, 430 Some nrfcriptions at Vcrowi, 484, &L il-q. Defiderio Erafmo, 507 INSPRUCK, a porch there caver ■ ed with gold, 49 7 Chnrcb of Irancifcans, Max- imilian emp. his fine mo- nument there, ib. I .N r c 1^ M F z z I , performances between the ails in opera's, 85 Intrenchmcnts of French near Do- nawert, 500 John [6/.] and Paul, their church at Venice, y 2 Chapel of St, Orfola adjoin- ing, ib. Is IS \worfmp cf^ when abolifljcd :n Rome, and upon what occa- fion, 353 Her temple, ib. & 256 Ifland [Tiberine] 237 Italian, where befi fpoke, 377 Italians, temple of them, 491 Jubilee on account of the plague, what, and why fo called, 4 50 Justiniani, vide Giuftiniani. K. KAtharina [5/.] a Formcllo, her church at Naples, 155 Katliarini Vigri {St.] her body pre- fcrved 2^0 years, nails grow, i^c. as pretended, 436 Kaysarswaert, 505 LTE <; t R VG OS'S brought by Ilcmer, i^c. into the port between Mo- la and Cajcta, 139,141 Lago di Guarda, 481 Lacune, rt/ Venice, what, 4+ y Lake The GENERAL I N D E X. l.^kc Lucrine, i-8 Jvernus, i 8 1 d'Jgnano, 187 heatedivith fiibterraneoiis fires^ ib. Lapis Vituperii, 42 Lateranus, fenator, in Nero's time, his palace in Rome, 199, 215 Latus Clavus, fame enquiry con- cerning it, 345 Lazaretto c.t Milan, 469 Leaning T'lJ'K-w, 388 Leghorn, anciently I.il?urnuni,^jS Englip underjlood by many of the natives there, ib. Galley-Jlavcs, ib. Synagogue, 379 Lewis IV. Infcriptions in honour of him at Paris, 4 at Marfeilles, 1 5 Leyden, 5 1 2 Univerfity, ib. Anatomy School, ib. Burgh, ib. Monfr. de la Cour'^s garden, 513 Library [p/^Mr] at Venice, 60 of Vatican, vide Vatican, of Barberini, 289 I f Valet t a, 158 of Gualtieri, 299 <?/ Grand Duke at Florence, 422 Amlrofian, 466 Library adjujled by tivo lear?ted pcrfons, ^b6 LiciNi [Ilex] vajl abundance of them on Apennines, 127 Lightning, mifchiefs done by it at Rome, 492 LiNTERNUM, now Torre di Patria, place ef Scipio Africanus's retire- ment, 1 8 2 Lions, antique, h7-ought from A- thens to Arfenal of Venice, 81 at palace Barberini, 289 at Villa de Medici, 327 LIONS, 8. Churches there, 9 Famous clock, ib. Canons at the great church, counts, ib. Antiquities at Lions, 10 Epigram on Lions, by Sca- liger, ib. The birth-place of Claudius, and a Rom. colony, ib. LiRis [^River] now Garigliano, 145 Lifeirre {River'] 13 Livoli {Mount] a part of the A- pennine, 433 Livy, his fuppofed remains and tomb at Padua, 42 Loadftone, vafi, 405,420 a very fmall one of extraor- dinary attraSfion, 42® LoDi, befl cteefe in Italy now made there, 458 LoMBARDY, the face of the country, defcribed, 3 1 Vines how grow there, 3 2 Carriages in Lombardy, ib. Madonna, how painted along roads there, ib. LORETO, m.ade a city by Sixtus V. A fiatue of him there, 120 'Trade of Loreto, wherein confifts, 121. Holy-houfe, where plac'd, and after what manner, ib. a farther defcription cf it, ib. &c leq. 7wt to be entered zvithfwordsy 123 LO- The G E N E R LORETO. Apoftolic palace^ 124 Beggars mcjt importunate., ib. LovnsTEiN, 505 Louvre [Palace] ' .5 LUCCA, 389 a king of England preteml/d to be buried there., ib. Bijhop of IVorcejler buried there, ib. Volto Santo , ib. Miraculous image, -^no Lucchefe, a trick they piay'd the Paz-iciKS, :;9i LucuLLus, his 1-illa, i S j Luke [St.] Madonna's of his paint- ■ '"g^ 5^.57 Lefcription of fuch pieces as they afcribe to him., 5 1 His body contended for at Pa- dua and at I enice, 40 Holy image at Loreto carved by St. Luke, 122 Luxemburg [Palace] 5 Gallery tl^ere, ib. LUZARA, 34 M. MAcIiinery in opera's at Ve- nice, t;4 Madonna, Divine addreJJ'es made to her, 1 9 hew painted along roads in Lombardy, 3 1 Madonna of St. Luke, 51, 57.447 Grand apparatus at the fee- ing one of them, 447 Magdalen, [St.] place where fie preach' d in Marfeilks, 1 7 Mountains whither Jhe re- tired, ib. , Magi, their pretended tomb, 463 their bodies, where now, 504 their names, ib. A L I N 1) E X. Maine, [River] 501 Mal AMOCO, a pert near J 'enice, :oo Apleafant remark of an old mafler of a Peota belong- ing to that port, ib. Mandrakes, i r,i^ MANTUA, its filuation, 34 thinly peopled, ^^ how It came to fuffer together with the Cremonefe in Au- gufius's time, 34 Manufacture, ciw//f;;, at Abbeville^ ? at Padua, 43 Manufcripc ofSt. 'Thomas Aqttinas, efteem'd a precious relick, 152 Manufcript of Octavius Strada, the hijioiy of the Roman emperors with their effigies, 2 70, 4 2 7 Manufcripts of Aldrovandus ii>j Polutnes, 442 Marble, artificial, 201 Marble, incrujlation of walls with it, 200 Marbles [Larnefe] 255 Marbles of fcvcral forts taken notice of in this account. Granite, 49 Cipolino, 2 1 9 Nero e Bianco de gli Antichi, 219,240 di Porta Santa, 220 Giallo Antico, 2 3 1 , 3 o ; , 3 ^ o Oriental Granite, 328 GranitelUi Orient ale pediculofa, 231 Porp]jyry, 234,237,243,268 Black Porphyry, 243 Alaboflro fiorito, ib. Alcbaflro Orient ale., 2 7 Oj 3 » 3 I'crd Antique, 2 1 6, 3 1 o Nnmidian Marble, 243 Greek, 315,350,4+2 Y 2 iMarbles, The GENERAL INDEX. Marbles, ^c. Pavonazza, cr Pavonata, 2^6, 315 Rojfo Antico, 217,334 Mare Mortuum, 184 Marforio, 7?«/Kf, ivlrf fo called, 321 Marino, o toivn near Rome, 133 belongs to prince Colomia, 308 Mark [6/.] his church at Venice, 50 mofi rich in materich, and of curious workmanjhip, ib. Brcfs horfes antique over the principal entrance, 5 1 bis treafury, 52 his fchool, 7 1 his body brought to P^enice, 7 2 Marlborough [Duke of] Pi^ures of him at Florence, 401 Statue of him as Mars, 413 Marriage of young women out of hofpitals, 79i^54- a fiery concerning one of them, 154 MARSEILLES, its Situation, 14 its antiquity, 1 7 its arms, rohat antiently and what now, 15 Hotel de Ville, its orna- ments, ib. C allies there, 16 Firft Chrifiian church in France at Marfeilles, 1 7 Bajlides, country houfes near the city, J 4 MASS A, and its duke, 2 7 MafTanello, bis head taken in plai- Jler, 154 Portraits of him, 158,300 Massimi, Pal. 316 Matthei, P<?/. 301 yiUa, 337 Mausoleum, ^7■Jlf Monument. Maximin {St.l hifloop of Marfeillesy 26 Meal u ring of time, the manner of it in Italy, 28 Meafuring of Holy Image at Loreto, their virtues, 1 2 1 Meafures, Roman, ^c. 323,326 Memdingen, 301 Mentz, 502 Mercanti, merchants in Ve7iice, i^c. what, 98 Meridian Line [Cajfini^sl an account of it, 417 Metal, fwelling in hot weather, and Prinking in cold, an inflance of ity 419 Meteorological phenomena expreffed in paintings, 44 1 MILAN, tts extent, 459 Situation, ib. Rice-grounds, ib. lines, how grow, ib. City, hozv watered, 460 Count Corolledo governor, ib. Archivefcovato, ib. S. Carlo, great veneration paid to him at Milan, ^ ib. Borne, its architeSi, 46 1 Defcription of it, ib. &cc. Number ofjlatues in it, 46^ Church of St. Laurence, 464 St. Paul, 465 St. Eufiorgio, ib. St. Nazaro, ib. St. Sebaftian, 472 St. Angelo, 473 Convent, St. Ambrofe, 466 Olivetans, ib. St. Radegttnda, 472 Colonna infame, 464 Ambrofian Library, 466 Hofpital, great, ' 468 Lazaretto, 469 Caflle, ib. MILAN. Tiic G E N R R MILAN. Guard k.-pi at the.gatti l>y the nobiiily, 469 Galleries of pldurcs, ib. Gil fa Dad/:, 470 ArchtHta^ jb. Cafenedi, ib. Foricri^ 4; i 5f//aA.', ib. i>pamj}j drefs worn by ferns at Mtlan, 47 ^ ^/7/<^ Smotta, the famous echo tbere^ ib. Mills, floating, IC4 MlLTE.N'DERC, 5O I MiSENUM, 184 Mob, •:c'/jrt/ they do en ek£iion of a new pope^ 191 Models in wood of the cbelifks, the Trajan and Antonine pillars, 4+0 MODENA, 452 Duke's palace and gallery, 432, 453 Audience how given hy the duke, 29 how hy the rejl of {be court, , Antiquity of that family, ib. Princefs of Modena new efpouf- ed, i2,i7 MoLA, 'vide Formia:. Money lent out to poor people on eafy terms, 131,440 Monftrous hirth expofed iy father and mother, 3 i Monftrous embryo's, 472,488 Monte Cavallo, 273 the antique horfes there, ib. Pope's palace there, ib.&z 74 when built, 274 Monte Teftaccio, 359 Monte di Pieta, a bank at Rome, 231 MoNTESELiCE, fl« o!d cdfik there. A L INDEX. MO^i:\Vt!A}\Uboiifcsandchurcbes built of chalk there, 3 Monument of, 'Thcodoric^ i \ o Sannazai lus, 1 74 Chriflina, i^ cf Sweden, 2 1 o Raphael Urbm and Han. Caracci, 2 1 4 Tafjo, 230 Julius IL 232 Munatius Plancus, 1 44 Ciccilia Craffx, 3/55 Alex. Severus, ^57 Auguflus, ib. Hcratii isf Curiatii, 371 the Plautii, 369 Emp. Maximilian, ^^j an Englifh youth at Rotter- dam, 508 Monuments [funeral] of ancients^ how adorned, 237 Mol'aic, how performed, 209 Cement fcr it, ib. vtifl quantities of it at S.Mark's church at Venice, 5 1 a7td in S. Peter's at Rome, 2oc), 21 1 Mofaic baffo-relievoy 3 1 7 Molaics, At Venice, church cf St. Mark, At Ravenna, Ch. of S. Nazarus ^ Celfus^ 108 At Naples, in Catacombs, 1 6 1 At Rome, S. Peter's, 209,21 r i*^. John Lateran, 2 1 6 Ch.S.Pudens, 231 7 emp, cf Bacchus, 234 Ch. S. Maria de Scald dfli, 243 Pal. Monte Cavallo, 274. Lrban Vlll. Barberini, 291 Molaics, The IVlofaics .-:/ Rome. Paul V. Borghefe, 29+ S. Peter, by Ph. Cochm, 3 1 o Retia-rii, (^c. antique, 3 i 7 Mofcardo [count] his miction of ciiriofities, 407 Moles, a Saint at Venice, and Ch. to him there, 6 1 Mount Oltvct {church of] at Na- ples, 1 5 J Mountains to"i;ard Gettoa, 20 yipennine, 124. Sora£ie, 132 Vefuvius, 1O5 Gaurus, \~J1 Monte Nuovo, 178 Algid us, 370 yllcino, I ; 5 Pulciano, ib. s"^ S.Julian, si 9 \^ Uvoli, 433 |.<^ Redicofa, 433 j^ 5- Giogo, 432 ^//■f, _ 493 Mulberry /r?« bearing white fruit, vafi numbers of them, 3 1 Murderer, notorious, proteSled in a convent, 490 Murders, gtiefs at the caufe of the frequent ones in Italy, 490 Mufical drama in churches, 449 Mufical performances, great ones, 281,307,440 N. NAmes of fir angers fent to the governor at Ferrara, 105 Penalty cf fending a falfe name, ib. Nicknames, people 7nore ge- nerally known in Italy by them than by their real names, 106 GENERAL INDEX. NAPLES [kingdom of] where en- i er out of Pcfpe's dominions, 1 3 6 NAPLES, city, 149 Winters temperate there, ib. green peafe in winter, not in fummer, ib. Children playing about fireets naked, in March, ib. taken in general, the fineft city in Italy, Viceroy's palace. Public granaries, Untverjity, Churches in general. Dome, Ch. S. Paolo, S. DomenicoMaggiore, S Sanfeverino, Mount Olivet, S. Kath. a Formello, ib. 150 ib. ib. ib. ib. 15^ '5^ 153 lb. ib. Annunciata [ Monajtery ] Pi eta in this monaflery, ib. Toung women how provided for here, ib. Carthujians, their convent vaft- ly magnificent, 155 fonie account of this order, 156 Princes frequent in Naples and ib. 158 ib. ib. ib. office, 159 Catacombs, a defcription of them, ib. & feq. Chiaia, a fuburb of Naples, NARNI, Antique bridge cf marble there, 1 3 1 ^whether not anaqueduSf, ib. Neml-s Sicily, Palaces of Janfano, aud Caraffa, Library of Valetta, Seggi what, Nobili de Seggi, Eletti de Seggi, their The GENERAL INDEX. Nemus Dian/e, 372 Nicolati &c Caltellani, two advcrfe parties in Faiice^ 90 NIMF.GUKN, 505 Noble Venetians, a fuperjlitious notion of tbem^ 49 their robe, ^c. 9 2 worn by the citizens, and why, 9 1 Appearance of equality af- fetled among them, ib. Pompous iqtdpage difccu- rag'd, ib. In what particulars they fhew their magnificence, 94 Their title in perfonal ad^ drejjes, 92 Great a'conomifts, ib. tnujt not converfe with foreign minijlers, 97 The handfome and prudent behaviour of a nobleman upon a furprize in that r if pen, ib. Nobili, or Gentilhuomini, terms convertible, ib. ■Noble ladies of Venice, their habit Mack, 9Z rich in jewels, but re- Jlrained as to the wear- ing them, ib. imitate the French fa- fhion, 9 \. Nun, habited, 227 Nuns, fome decoy'' d, fame perfe^k forced into profejfv. n, 228 Nun, grown dcfperate tlxro' forcible rejlraint, 229 yln account of a young lady who flood it out agaiiijt all methcds ufedfor her profejfion, ib. Nuns, noble, at Venice, 99 Solemnities at the feafls of their fever al convents^ 99 Their drefs, ib. l^iwn?. fihging, 472 a OBizzi [Palazzo] near Batta- glia, 1 o I Obizzi ajtfts Ed. III. of England in taking David K. of Scots, 1 02 is made knight of the garter, &c. ib. Oetingen, 501 Onuphrio [St.] hermits of, 2;jo Opera, a fine one at Regio in Lom- bardy, at the time of the fair, 30 Opera'j at Venice, machinery in them, infianccs of it, 84 Opus reticulatum, what, 132 0.\ANGE, town and principality. Antiquities there, ib. &: 324 Oratorio, at Rome, 362 at Bologna, 449 Orders [religious] Vide religious orders. O rd QV of the general proceffion, 277 Orders of people in Venice, their fe- ver al dijiinilions, 97 Organs in the churches of the Cai- vinijts in Holland, i^c. r^o^ Orloia [St.] a chapel to her in Ve- nice, 72 fi-rj} married ly an Englifli prince, ib. 0<;suARiuM, with infcripthn, 299 OssuARiA, what, 337 Ottocohi [CcrdtnaF] courteous and generous, 2 S i a grand entertainment made h him, ib. OvidV toirb, fo called, 359 The GENERAL INDEX. PADUA, th-: approach to it, ,Winly peopled, ib. hoio fortified, ib. , Ampkitheatre, fmall j-emains of one ; its Arena, a court before a gentleman'' s houfe, lb. Churches there, s7->^ ^'^^• Church of S. Antonio, for- merly dedicated to B. Virgin, 37 •vajlly rich, particularly the chapel of the faint, ib. Church of S. Giujlina beau- tiful; pavement rich, but odly fancied infome parts,' 39 Expences of it, 40 Two evangelijts buried in this church, ib. Church of Emeritani. Eng- lifh, thd' Proteftants, bury there, 4 1 Garden of fimples, ib. of Papafava, houfe of ar- bors there, ib. of Morofini, four thoufand fpeciesinit, ib. Univerfity, i b. Antenor and hiiy, their fup- pofed remains, 42 Lapis Vituperii, ib. Cloth-ma7iufa£Jure now there, as there was alfo ancient- ly^ 43 Mingoni [Dr.] antiquary at Padua, ib. Painting on cutjide of houfes. at Genoa, 24 at Padua, 4 2 at Venice, 4^w3 Palaces in Paris, 5 at Genoa, 24 in Venice^ 54, 74, &: feq. at Ferrara, 105 at Naples, 1 50, 1 5 7, 1 3 8 at Rome, zide Rome. at Florence, 393,419,424, & leq. at Bologna, 434, 442, & hq. Palazzo, that title not fo much affeEied in Milan for the better fort of houfes, as in other cities of Italy, 460 Palavicini, Palace, 295 Paleoti, [Afcrj.] his execution m . England, what refle£lion it cc- cafioned at Bologna, 451 Palmyrean Vociim, 332 Pantalone, the etymology of ihe word, 85 Pantheon, defcription of it^ 21 x, 6c leq. Paper in windows infiead of glafs, 9 PARIS, 4 Statues of Fr. kings there, ib. Places [fquares] in Paris, ib. Palaces there, 5 Fountains there, ib. PARIVIA, -view at the approach to- wards it, 453 famous cupolcCs there, 454 Theatre, ib. Duke\f gallery, ib. Parmezan cheefe, 458 Parties among, the people encouraged, in Venice, 91 the reafon affigned for it, ib. Pafquinades at ekilion of Innocent XII. ,94 Paffion of our Saviour reprefented in a lively manner, 473 PAVIA, Carthufians, 475 Univerfity, 476 Colkg, BorrhomeOj ib. PA- The GENERAL INDEX. PA^'IA. Colkg. Ghijlcri, ib. Equejlra! ftatuey ib. Dome. Spina Santa thercy ib. Church of S. Peter, 477 Tombs of Boetius ami of St. .'ugujline, ib. Clock, a curious one, ib. Covered bridge over Ticino, 478 Stratagem ofPavians againfl the French, ib. Paul [5/.] his churches at Naples, 151 at Rome, 243 Three fountains made by three leaps of his head u-hen cut off, ib. Pausilypo [Hill] ly^ Grottc. cut thro' it, 1 75 Periique [6Vc«f] 304 PESARO [City] fine fountain, and Jiatue of Urban Vll I. 120 Peter, [St.] his churches in Rome, 204,232,251 his firft landing-place in I- ialy, 379 Peter Martyr, [St.] his tomb and epitaph by S. Tho. Aquinas, 465 Phocians, builders of Marfeilles, 18 Phyficians, how ejleemed in France and in Italy, 6 PlACENZA, 457 Equejlral Jiatues there, ib. Dome, ib. Piazza Navona, and fine fountain there, 362 Piazza di S. Marco at Venice, 48 Pidure, an odd one at Bologna, 436 Pieta [Hofpital] at Vemce, 79 at Naples, 154 Vol. II. PiETRA Mala, fires there iffuing out of the ground, 432 PiETRo[D«//] dt Tokdc. Vide Toledo. PiETRO [St.] d'Jrena, afuburb to Genoa, magnificent palaces there, 2 3 in Grado, 3 9 mEVE, a Itttlc city, J07 Pilate [Chateau de] 13 Piles, under foundations of houfes in Amfterdam, vafily expen- five, 5 1 2 Number of piles under the Stadt-Houfc, 511 Pilgrim dragging a huge crofs, 29 Robbers fometimes fo difguifed^ ib. Pilgrims crawling round Holy- Houfe at Lorcto, 123 Pillar, before church of S. Maria Maggiore, taken from Temp, of Peace, 222 of Henry \Y. ib. Ccltimna lojlrata, 323 Pillars, granite, the greateft in Rome, 200 Trajan and Antonine, 346 Citoria, 347 Curious, of various forts, 219, 220 a vaft one of Porta Santa, im- ported by D omit i or, 220 Pillars, antique, at Milan, 464 Colonna infame, ib. Pillars, devotional, 469 Pines, a wood of them called thirty miles in length, 1 1 2 PiOMBivo [Pal.] 296 PiPERNO, anciently Priveinum, PISA, very ancient. Dome, Antique Vafc, Baptiflery, Z 3S)0 382 PI- The GENERAL INDEX, PISA. Campo Santo, 382 Leaning tower ^ with Signr. Ga- lilei's opinion concerning it, 388 PiSANi [Pal.] at Venice, fne paint- ings there, 76 Piscina MiRABiLis, 184 PiSTOiA, 391 Plague, a great one at Venice, in 1576, commemorated in an infcription, 70 Deliverance from it at Leg- horn, to what afcribed, 379 Procejfions on account of it. Plague-fore fix' d by S. Carlo on a pillar, 469 Plan of Rome, antique, 255 Plants and trees. Vide tress. PO, [River] manner of pajfing it, 33 Podefta, the title of governors of cities in the Venetian flate, loi PoGGio a Caiano, a villa of the grand duke, 392 PoGGIO ImPERIALE, 429 PoMPEY, his flat ue, 298 Story concerning it, ib. his buff, 314 his villa's, 184,371 Pompous Appearance not alh-vSd among noble Venetians, (^1 Pons Milvius, now Ponte Molle, 13-3 Ponte de'Solpiri at Venue, §5 Pope [Innocent XIII.] eleaed,.i^o Proclaim' d, i b. Mob, what they do upon elec- tion of a new pope, 1 9 1 Jdoraticn, how perform'd, ib. Coronation, ib. Pope, how receives the fa era- mental wine, ib. Pope. Flaxfet on fire before the new pope, 191 Artifice reported to have been t fed at this eleBion, 193 Pafquinades at this eleSlion, 194- Pope, his poftitre at the general proceffion, 278 Porphyry, black, 243 Porta Trigemina, 338 Portico, 3 tniles long, 446 Poverty, great appearance of it di along between Calais and Abb'>- ville, 2 Pr^fericula, vefjels ufed in fa- crifice, 478 Pratolino, 430 Preaching on Sundays in Italy, not common, 203 Marnier of preaching there, ib. Preaching of a Jefuit in Piazza Navona, 362 Precipices, vaft, in road between S. Remo and Genoa, 2 1 Pricft, remarked as eminent for cha- /'■(?', 30 Priefts, play in the Orcheftra at the Venetian opera's, 84 Primg.cerio, his office, ncminated by the Doge, 6 > Princes frequent in Naples and Si- cily, _ I.-,/ Princeis of Modeva, new efpcus"!, 12,17 Proceffion, a grand one at Venice, to implore a bleffing for the new -year, 6^ at Rome, of Corpus Chriftt, calledaUhe mofi general procefiion, 277 Proceffions on account of the plague, / 450 Drefs of proceffioners, ib. Proccfiions on Good-Friday, 47 :} Procuraties at Venice, 59 60 ■ Pro.- 'I'he GENERAL I N I) E X. Procurator; if S/. Murk, tbcir cq- S'\ 59 Pioteclcr [Cunli/irJ'] in Rome, to (ill nations, 301 Proverb at Venice, 50 Pumice-Stones put in the vaults of the old buildings, to make the vjork lefs heavy, 239 PUTEOLI, KOIO PoXZUoli, 176,185, 186 Pyramid of Ceflius, 3^9 R. RAdicofaki, caflkt 374 Rats Tower, 502 RAVENNA, noiu at a diflance from the fea, anciently not, 108 Dome, a chapel there painted by Guido, ib. J 'ins planks the great door of this church, ib. Ch.'irch of S. Vitalis, ib. of S. Nazarus and Celfus, ib. Ritonda, anciently the monii- r.unt cfTheodoric, cover- ed by one vaft fione, 38 foot diam. 109 "S'L-. Aiidifoifs and Miffon^s different accounts of it re- conciled, ib. Ravennefe and Pavians, fame of their fpoils and rcprifals, no ylkxander VlVsfialue, 1 11 Rcik-mption of fiavcs, 8 Redentore \(lburch of'\ at Ve- nice, 6 1 Redicosa, Mount, fart of the A- pcmiine, bad way, 433 Refuge \Xcivns of] 314 Regent, his anf-jjzr to the follicit^- tions in favour of count fiorn, • 7 REGGIO, /;/ Lombardy, fuhjetl to the duke ,of Mcdena, 29 Fine opera^s at the time of the fair there, 30 fe^jjs there, 3 1 Women go veiled there, 30 Religious Orders. Carthujians, 156,4:^5,436 Hermits of CatnaldoU, lOj, 165 of Im "trap, 430, ik feq. of S. Omipbrio, 230 Remo \_St.'] its fituation, 18 votive piElures in church there, 19 Road, what fort, between H. Remo and Genoa, 20 Trees and plants, what forts in this roc.d, 2 1 vafl precipices, ib. REiMORA, 5X2 Renno [or little Rhine] a little ri- ver running along the read, be- tween Ferrara and Cento, 105 Retiarii, is'c. 317 RcTicuLATUM Opl's, wJjat, 132 Rhine [River] ' 502 Rhone [River] _ 8 R I. alto, the Jirfl inhabited part of Venice^ \ ■ ' ^6 Rice-grounds about Milan, 459 RinoTTO, Venetian, Zj RIMINI, antiquities thn'e, 1 1 8 a marble bridge, . ib. a triumphal' arch, ib. Remains of an amphitheatre, i ij. Suggcjlttm, ' ' ib. fame doubt concerning tlat,\ 19 Cell of S. /intcnio, ib. Z 2 Ki- Tlie GENERAL INDEX. River Soimie^ .aMoj3 Seine, " ~ .;^..t^ 5 Rhone, 8 Saon, ib. Lifeirre, 13 Drwn, ib. Leinza, 33 Po, ib. Brenta, 43 Renno, 105 Rubicon, ii2, Scfeq, Concha, 119 Tiber, 132,361 Garigliano \_Liris'] 145 Arno, 380.393 Taro, 457 Ticino^ 477 Adda, 478 Seri, ib. Mincio, 481 Adige, 496 Danube, 500 Mr.ine, 501 Rhine, 502 Roer, 5^S Wahl, ib. Maefe, ib. r£ei. 514 Rivers joining,. Rhone and Saon, 8 Maine and Rhine, 502 Rhine and Mofdle, 5°i Robe of noble Venetians worn by the' citizens and why. 91 Rocco [5/.] cchool of. St Venice, 69 5^5 ROERWERT, ROME, 189 ' ' its Jit nation. 195 Entrance into it on this fide. very noble. ib. Streets, many of them exa£ily ftrait. 106 Catnpo Marzo [ the ancient Campus Martins'] the clofefi ' built fart oj Romt . ^^1 ROME. r Palaces, a general defcription of them, 197 Brick-fioors even in the beji a- partments, 198 Gratuity for feeing a palace . well judged, ib. Churches, a general defcription of them, 199 Bajilica, what, ib. Tribune, what, ib. Modern churches tnoji adorned, 200 Votive pictures, 201 Pulpits, what fort, 203 Church of St. Peter [Bajilica] 204 S. Maria ad Martyres, an- ciently the Pantheon, 211 S. John Lateran [Bajilica'] S. Maria Maggiore [Baji- lica] 219 Santa Croce, 223 S. Bibiana, ib. Grand Ciefu, 224 S Ignatius, ib. S. Andrea de Giefuiti, 2 2 5 S. Maria della Vittoria, ib. S. Philippo Neri, 226 S. Andrea della Valle, ib. S. Kath. di Siena, 227 iS'. Agofiino, 229 S. Onuphrio, >. 230 Madojina del Portico ; or, in Catnpitelli, ib. i9. Pudens &" Piidentiana, 231 S.Pittro inVincoli, 232 S. Marti no a i Monti, ib. deWAnima, ib. S. Martina, 233 S. Agnes, without the walls, 234 S. Conjlantia, 235 ROME. The GENERAL INDEX. ROME. mv. Cb. cf S. Lorenzor^^'^'^^. 235 S. BartbolonieOy 237 S. ChryfogonuSi 240 S. Ca-a/ia, ib. S. Francefco delta Ripa, 241 S. Sabim, ib. 5. Mjria in Aventino, 242 S. Vicenzo &' Ancjtajioy ib. S. Mana de Scald dvli, 243 S. Paolo [B^/tlica] ib. S. A "aria de .,rd Call, 244 S. Syriejler, 246 S. Agnes ni Piazza Navona, ib. S. Maria del Popcla^ ib. de i Capucini^ 248 S. Iftdcro, ib. 5. Carlo in Corfo, ib. G. Ci.uuofiio de' imurabili, 249 5. Louigi de i Franceft^ ib. S. Gregorio, ib. 5. Girolamo della Carita, 2 JO Madonna della Pace, 251 S. Pietro Monteri, ib. ^. j\&?7fl 4; Z,or^ /o, 252 Churcl. ofth: Armenians, ib. 5. Mjr?c» ;» :^oJmedi>i, or in Schoui Gracd, 253 5> Adrian, 25 + 5'. Lorenzo in Miranda, ib. ^. Cofmus y Damianus, ib. ^/. M^na j/opr/? Mnerva,. 2.7 231 Heathen temples in Rome, thoi";r markeii [*] arc turn- ed into Chriftian churches, the reil are ruinous. * Pcntbeon, 2 i 2 • of Baccbus, 255 ROME. lleatben Temples, i^c. 'Jupiter LycaoniuSy 240 * Diana, 241 * Jupiter Feretrius, 244 * For tuna Virilis^ 252 i^VeJla, 253 * Pudiciti^ Patricia, ib. * Saturn, 254 * Antoninus (sf Faujlina, ib. * Romulus i3 Remus, ib. of Peace, 255 -5^-^> 253 ^j &" Serapis, 256 Jupiter St at or, ib. Concord, ib. Jupiter Tonans, or Divus Ju- lius, ib. * Miict^ja, 257 another 2,8 ^V««j ^»</ Cupid, ib. Minervr M-dica, ib. -f- Fortune in Via ad Gabios, 259 i" of Virtue and of Honour,^ 5 ^ •f- /".c; Kediculo. lb. ■\- Fcriun.£ Muliebris, ib. tS- Thefe four lalt marked [f] arc without the walls. Palace of t be Vaticant. 259 Monte CavaHo, 273 Cancellaria, 280 ■ Farnefe, 282 I./V/Zf Fartufe, 287 BaH'Crini, 289 £0'^ytf/"f, 293 Palavicini, 295 C%/', 296 Vemfpi, ib. Piombino, ib. 6Vj»/rt Croff, 297 5/)<7i/«, 298 Gualtieri, 299 Matthei, 301. Giujiimani,, 302 ROME, GENERAL INDEX. HOME. Pal. cf ColoHKa, 10 r. BrciccianOy 308 RofpigUofi, 310 Pemphilio^ 3" Rujpoliy 3^5 Fiorenza., 3it. AUieri^ ib. Savdli, ib. MqJJimi, 3^7 Del Pozzo, 3^9 Capitol, ib. Jugufti, 35^ De i Aiiibafciadori 259 Villas, a general account of them. 326 mojl of what follow are within the tvalls. Villa de Medici, 327 Giujliniani, 331 Ludovifia, 333 Aldohrandina, 335 Palombara, ib. Farnefe, 336 Spada, ib. di Montalto, ib. Mattei, 337 Conti, 33'^ Chigi, 339 Cafali, 340 Borghefe, b. & leq. Villa publica. ?o9 Pillars, Trajan and Antonine, 346,347 Colonna Citoria, 347 Granite, the gi cateft in Rome, 200 Triimphal arches. of Titus, 348 ConfiaKtine, 349 Sept. Se-jcrus, 350 ObeHfl<s, del Popclo, ,96 at S. Peter's, 204 at Pantheon, 3 ^15 ROME. OheJiJI:s, at S. John hater ail's, iiy cf S. Maria Maggiore, 222 de Medici, 328 [To thefe I mufl add one more which I remember, but do not find infer ted in the book ; Uis that of the Minerva, Jet up by Bernini, on the back of an elephant ; and Jljould have been itfertedjujl after •what is faid of that temple, p. 258. [c5= Two others I recoiled, not fet up, but lying in pieces: one in the Villa Ludovifia, the other before the Barberini palace. Amphitheatre, 350 Holes in the walls, how ac- counted for by Ficaroniy Circus Maximus, 351 of Car ac alia, 355 Theatre of Marcellus, 2 1 6 Baths, of Titus, 352 of Caracalla, ib. cf Diccleftan, 337 of Helena the Emprefs, 338 Fountain in Piazza Navona, 362 Pons Egeria; 3 85 Catacombs^ 356 Maufoleum, 'of Cecilia Metella, 255 of Alex. Severus, ■^^■j cf Augiiftus, ib. Pyramid of Ceftius, i^^^S Sepulchre of Nafones, 359 Monte Teftaccbio, i b. Cloac.f, 361 Aquedu8s, 351 ■>3^'^ Tyher [Riverl 361 ROME, The G E N E R ROME. Oratorio di Caravita, 362 Governor of Rome, Sig. I'al- conieri, fince made a cardi- nal, 364 Roftrum, an antique one at Ccr.ca, 20 Rota {Sig.'] fine colkP.irn of paint- ings and fadptures, 78 RoTONDA at Ravenna, vide Ravenna. RoTONUA at Rome, vide Pantheon. Rotonda'j, ruinous, towards Bai.r, ^c. 177 ROTTERDAM, 506 Erafmus'sjiatue, 507 Monument ereBed to an Eng- liflj youth, 508 Fronts of houfes built inclining, 509 ROVIGO, a handfoHie dome there, 103 /Intique hujls at count Sylve- Jlre's, ib. Rubicon [River] 1 12 'u/.^t Blond fays of it, 1 1 3 his reading of an old infcription faid to have been on the fide of it, ib. Tranfcript of a copy of the in- fcription, as feen in the Va- tican, 1 14 Cluverius's edition of the in- fcription, and opinion of it, Csnteft between the people of Ceftnatc and of Rimini, con ■ cerning the river, ib. a' tridge over it when Ca:far pafs^d it, as colleSled from the -words of Suetonius, Prodigy related hy Suetonius at Cxfar's puffing ity ib. A E I N D E X. Ruins, artificial, Rui'jis Tarpeia;, 293.427 3^6 SAcramental -Jijine, how received by the pope, 191- Sac REDO [Senator of Vetiice] fine collet! ion of curiofities, would not fijew them, yy Sacrifices of Tauribole, Criobole, and /EgiboU, 11,12 Suovetaurilia, 297 Sail rs, Italian and French, fiack at putting out to fea, 2 3 Saints of Old Tefiament at Venice,6 1 Salute [Church of] at Venice, ib, Salvini [Dr.] a learned Floren- tine, 425 Sandluaries in Venice, 100 Sannazarius'j /(?;«/^, 174 Sanseverino [St.] his church at Naples, 1 5 -^ Youths of Sanfeverini family poifoiCd by their uncle, their monument, ib. Santa Croce, church, 223 palace, 297 SARZANO, there quit the Genoefe mountains, 2 7 Savelli, palace, on the remains of theatre of Marcellus, 3 1 6 Family defended from antient Roman Sabelli, ib. Sbirri, officers of jujlice, employed in arrefts, 1 00 ScAGLiOLA what, how uftd, 201 ScALA Santa, 218 SCHELENBERG, 5OO SCHEVi:LI.NG, 513 School of St. Antonio at Padua, 38- School at Fetrara, della Madonna della Circoncifione, 104 Schools, meeting-places for confra- ternities. J 8,64 Scliools The GENERAL INDEX. Schools at VenicCy 6g, & feq. of S. Rpcco, 69 of S. Mark, 71 of the Cat- it ay j^ SciPio Africanus, the place of his retirement, 183 Scourging of meri's felves along the flreets, 189 Tricks plafd by fame of them during this feeming pe- nance, 190 do it for hire, ib. Scourging in the dark, at an ora- tory in Rome, 362 Accident at one of thefe meet- ings, which put the people under a confiernation, 363 St. Sebaftian \Church'\ at Venice, 61 Forty pieces of Paolo Vei'o- nefe there, ib. Secret Gate at Augfburgh, 498 Segci \_at Naples'] what, 158 Nobili de Seggi, ib. Eletti de Seggi their office, Seine [^Riverl 5 Semones what, 238 Sepulchre of Nafones, g§^ vide Tomb and Monument. Sermonetta, much fulphur there, SETIA, its fit nation, 134 its wines preferred by Augu- Jlus to all others, ib. Reverfe now of their antient excellence, ib. Shenkinshens [I/l^nd] 505 Shepherds hew cloath\i on Apen- nines, 126 Shew-bread [Table of] authentick reprefentation of it, 348 Sibyl [Cum^an] her grot ta, ij^ her baths, 1 8 1 Sienna, Dojne, &'c. .375 pav'd with brick, 377 Arms of Sienna^ ib. Univerfity, ib. beft Italian fpoke there, ib. Simon Magus, an infer ipt ion un- . derjlood as relating to him enquir'd into, 238 SiNUESSA 145 Siftrum, 313 SixTus V. the refiorer of Rome^ 269 his rich chapel in church of St. Maria Maggiore, 220 Slaves [^Redemption of] 8 Slaves at MarfeiUes, 16 at Genoa, 23 at Leghorn, 378 Sleeping under what circumfiances ejteemeddangercu; 'n Iia!j,2i an infiance of extraoiOinary caution m that particular^ ib. Sodomy, an odd law againfi it at Genca, 2 7 SoLFATAR A, its old names, 1 86 Smoke ifjuing out, ib. all hollow under, 187 / itriol and alum here, ib. SoMME [River] King Edw. III. his paffage of it, 3 Sorade [Mcunt] now called S. O- rejie, 132 a hermitage on it called St. Sylveftro, 133 Sorbolo, a fruit in quality like a 7nedlar, 107 Sortes Prjeneftinje, 403 Spada, palace, 298 Specchio di Diana, 372 Spin-houfe at Amfierdam, 509, &511 Spoils from Jerufalem where lodg'd, ^55 Spo- tl.e ' ti f^.ii EfL AL I N D M X. I'OLETO, J^tSqrte ylmteaUB;'' ■■■ 126 Spnnosfcn/iitng ho/, ''•,- 179 Stadt-houfe nt /imflerdBn', 509 Stair-cafe, «*:'rt/, 289 «*/fi5? ones at Bofc-rn.-i, 442 Cciitrivance for Jirait afcenl , 443 Statera Romaiia, 292,^39 Statues, enltvenwg the Villa's, is'c. a people of them tn Rome, 343 the pleafv.ye arifmg from the ohfer-cation of them, ib. Stephen [6V.] his body p-etended to be at Venice, 6 1 Stone, remarkable, fuppofed an al- tar, 493 Stones, fbewn for thnnder bolts, 48 S Fa. Montfaucon's opinion concerning them, ib. Storks, o>; tops of houfcs, 500 Stoves injiead of chimneys, 495 SfRADA [OCTAVIUS] htS M. S. ^Jlory of Roman emperors, ivith ■^^'their ejjigies, 270,427 Sttangers allowed conjiderable li- "^berty in the chttrches at Rome, .1:1 204 Strangers navies fevt to the governor at Ferrara, ■ 105 pnuilty offending a falfc name, , '^• . '• -cets narrorjj at Genoa^- and in 0- ther cities of Ttaly, and the rcafon given for it, 24 • - ivide at Ferrata, 1 04 and at Naples, 149, Strigiles, . ' •■ • > >. • ^^I Srirozzr, fhc^r contejt 'tiftb 'rhk Siidarorii di S. Oefmano, 1 80 Siiggeflium at Rimini, 1 1 8 fome doubt coUcOT.ifjg it, ib. Sulphur viticb at Sermonetta, 1 3 j at Solfatara, i8(. Sulplmrcous fiveating places, 189 SuovEi AURiLi.'V famfice, 297 Order of the animals inverted, ib. a modern proceffion at Bologna much in the manner of it^ 44« Supcrftitious notion of the noble Venetians, 49 SvjtdiUno-places of Tritoli, 179 of St. German, fulphiireous, J 89 Swelling on throats, vafl, 479 Alethod whereby they endeavour to remove them, ib. TABLE of fhexv -bread, au- thentic reprefcntation of it, 34« 1 ablcs inlaid ivith /;;.:;\'.V.', Lapis Lazuli, ^c. L jj Talifmans, r - Tapiftries of the /V..i,. ., i/i- TARrnrAN toc^, 326 Tasso, his monument f 230 Tauribolium, //'^ Wrt«^rr of it, ■ ■ ^ II . Jltar at Licv= '■■• ::•-:!< -w rf one, j'). Taxes, high at Ik , , ; 9 Tempio d^i,'>6k;an j r, ".■.by Jo called, ■ ''■ '■ "' ^ ■ ,182 Temple, ancient, r.f -rJ -'r mrrh!,:, ^'fa/d to have be five Chrijtians, •■ : , A ,. •*rein- The GENERAL INDEX. Temple of Jupiter at Pozzuoli, i86 I'emples cf Apollo^ Diana, Venus, Neptune, &c. Rotonda's tozuard Bai^e, &c. ruinous, 177 Temples [Heathen] in Rome, vide Rome. Tergauw, 513 Tern I, the great cafcade near it defcril'cd, 127 T2KKACIU A, it's etymology, 137 it's old name, ib. Galba born near it, ib. TefTerjE Milkares, 402 Theatres, at Reggio, 30 at Vicenza, ^6 thofe at Venice named from the neighbouring churches, 83 the property of feveral no- blemen., ib. Theodore [5/.] ancient patron of Venice, a fiatiie of him there, a particularity in it, ib. Theodoric, his porphyry tomb, 1 10 Three Taverns, 134. Thunder, bells ring ivhen it thun- ders, and why, ^q 1 i'hiinderbolts, flones Jhezv'd for fuch. Father Montfaucon's opi- nion concerning them. 488 ThuilJeries palace end- gardens, 5 Tlhzr [River'] 132 TiberineT/^^Wi/, 237 Tiberius, pedeflal of a flatue e- rscled to him upon his refloring fourteen cities cf /Ifui, 186 Tide, ^o:hal height at Venice, how faid to diminijh in other parts of the gulph, 1 1 9 Time, how meafured in It ah', 2S Tirol [People of] live eafy as to taxes, &'c. 495 TivoLi, the ancient Tibm; 366 Villa d'Efle there, ib. Cafcade, ^6y Toledo [Strada di] in Naples ve-- ry magnificent, 149 Toledo [Don Pietro di] viceroy of Naples, the means he ufed to bring back the people of Pozzuoli to their homes, after having been frighted thence by earthquakes, ^c. 178 built a cafile at Baia, 184 Tomb of 1'heod-oric, 1 1 o of Virgil, 174 cf Sanazarius, ib. of Agrippina, 184 of Chriftina, ^ of Sweden, 210 cf Raphael Urbin, and Han. Caracci, ,214 cf Ovid fo called, 359 cf the Magi, 465 of St. Peter Martyr, ib. cf duke Galeazzi, 475 of Boctius, 477 cf S. Auguflitie, ib. of the Scaligeri, princes of Verona, 488 of pope Luciuj III. ib. Antenor, and Livy, 42 Torture-room in Stadt-houfe at Amflerdam, 5 1 1 Towers built againfi incur/ions of Turks, 22,120 Tower, leaning, 38 8 of Giotto at Florence, ^^^ cf St. Mark, may begone up on horfeback, 59 Town-houle of Lions, 10 of Marfeilles, 1 5 ^ cf GenMy 2 6 ' Towns The G E N H R Towns of refuge, 5 [ 4 Iraile of Loreto, wherein conjijh, 121 L..\ Trap, religious order, 430 the way of living, ib. Rides of that order, 43 r Trajan, arch of white marb!e e~ reiled to him at Ancona, i 20 Treacle [Venice] grand apparatus for the making of it, H ^ Treafury of St. Mark, 52 of Lore to, 12,' TRENT, noon there an hour before mid-day, the reafon (as fuppofed) of it, 4t,4 Trees and plants, between Lions and Marfeilks, « + nhoiit St. Remo, 20,21 in Lombardy, 3 r in Padua, 41 towards Ferrara, 1 o 5 itbout Cento, 107 near Ravenna, 1 1 2 Apennines, 127 towards Naples, 134,136,137 about Pi fa and Leghorn, ^y ^ <ibout Bologna, 434,447 about Milan, 45.^ between Verona and Volarma, 492 intirol, 4g§,j[.g6,^^y near Donawert, 500 fsear Mondingen, 501 about Cclogn, 5O4 Tre Tratte cii Cliorda, the manner of that puniflment, 1 05 TiuBUNA, what, 199 the famous one at Florence, 405 Tricemim Fratres, the gates they went out and return d through, 3 -i X their monuweni, 3 7 1 A L I N D E X. Trimalcio and his gang repre- fen ted in fculpture, 298, 381 Fa. Montfattcon's opinion of thole rcprtfentations, 38' Tripodes, 401 Tr iTOLi, fprings fcalding hot ; paf- fages to fame of them infuppor ta- ble, 1 79 Triuinpluil arch at Vicenza, 36 at Rimini, 1 1 8 at Rutne, vide Rome. Trophies, whether of Marius or Trajan, 320 Turkilh pyrates, 20 'I'urks, towers built againfl their in- curfions, 22,120 Turks gutted Cattolica of goods and inhabitants, 1 20 TuscvLAfiVM of Cicero, ^6^ TvBER [River] 361 ViVs Barberinum, fuppos\i to be artificial Cameo, 292 contained afljes of Alexander Severus, ib. Copy of its figures, per Nic Poiiffrri, ib, Vatican palace, 259 Number of roans faid to be in it, ib. Gallery there, called five hundred paces long, 26^ Another, 268 Library, 2 Cy Ornaments of it, ib. n'hat thcyjhewed us in it ; Greek Teft. 900 ye.vs old, ib. (7c//). 5/. Luke and St. John hoo years old, ib. A a 2 A' a- The GENERAL INDEX. Virgil, 1400 years old, as /aid, 269 K. Hen. VIII. his zvritings, ib. Dimenfions of the library, 271 Tapijiry-hangings of the Va- tican, ib. Velitri. Aiigiiflus niirfed near it, 133 VENICE, its fituatiojt, 44 Gondola's, ib. Rife of Venice, 4.6 Rialto, its firfi inhabited part, ib. Canals, the great Jlreets, 47 Land paffages there very nar- row, ib. Campo's of Venice, ib. Bridges, above 400 without battlements, flippery footing, ib. Crab-ffo craivling on fides of houfes, 48 •Outfide of houfes painted by the greatefi mcifters, ib. Piazza di S. Marco £5? Piaz- zetta, ib. Thcodo7'e [ 5/. ] a flatue of him ; a particularity in it, 49 a fuperftitious cujlom of the noble Venetians, ib. Churches of Venice, 5 o, 5 9 , 6 1 Greek church there, 63 Treafury of St. Mark rich in jewels and in relics, c^i Doge's co-nw, the pretend.ed ori- gin of it, 53 Venice, "when firfi received that name, ib. ^ Crcivn of Cyprus, how the Ve- netians became pojjeffed of it, 54 s. VENICE. Deniincie Secrete, for what purpofe fet up, 55 Doge's palace, 54 the palace cf the republic, 56 naftinefs of it, ib. . Hall of great council, ib. Hall of the college, 5J Arfenal or armory, ib, Occafion of ereBingit, 58 Council of Ten, its origin, ib. a terrible court of juftice, 95 Tower of St. Mark ; may be gone up on horfe-buck, 59 Procurators of St. Mark, their origin, ib. Procuraties, defer iption of them, and by vjhom built, 60 Library ; fculptures antique at the entrance, ib. Convent of S. Giorgio, 61 Primocerio, his office, 63 Schools of Venice, for what pur- pofe erefied, 69 Schools of S. Rocco, ib. of S. Mark, 7 1 of the Carita, 7 3 Palaces of Venice, of a manner different from the Roman or Florentine, • 74 Some particulars of th^m,\h. 8c feq. Hofpitals m Venice for females, 79 fVives chofen out of thent, ib. & vide, p. 154. fine mufical performances in thefe hofpitals, ib. Arfenal, great, 80 Bucentaur, 8 1 Galeaffes, 8 2 Camels, machines for raifing of fhips funk, ib. Water, frefJo, fcarce at Venice, manner of providing it, ib. VE- The GENERAL I N D E X. VENICE. Treacle [Venice'] grand, appa- ratus for making it, 8 5 Glajps [Venice'] ib. Thiatres there, named frohi neighbouring churches, ib. Priejh plfiving in the Orcbe- fira, ' 84 Ctirnmal [Venetian] .S'6 Ridotto [Venetian] Sj Other entertainments of Car- naval, 88, &rcq. Nol/le Venetians their robe ivcrn by the citizens, 9 1 Reafons given for it, ib. Several particulars concerning them, ib. be Icq. Vide noble. Noble ladies, 93 Courtezans of Venice, 04 Doge, qs Inquifitors of flat e, ib. Canal Orphano, why fo called, ib. Some maxims of the Venetian govermnent, 95, & fcq. Orders in Venice, their fever al dijliniiicvs, 9 7 Nuns, noble, at Venice, 99 Solemnities at the feafls of their feveral convents, ib. their drefs, ib. SanHuaries, 1 00 Venus [Chambers of] hozv adorn d, m Callipygis, occafmi of that epi- thet, 286 VERONA. Awphitheatre, 4??r Arfenal, 486 Garden of count Giujio, ib. Count Mofcardi's collection, 487 Signr. OdoWs coll e^^ ion, 488 Scaligeri, princes of Verona, their tombs, ib. VERONA. Lucius III. [Pope] his tomb and in/cription, ib. Convent and church of St. George, 489 Ch. of Madonna de gli Or- gani, a precious relick there, ib. Convent of Dominicans, a notorious murderer pro- tetled there, 490 Infcriptions in a court before the academy, 484 Verofpi, Pal. Rome, 296 Vcfuvius, a burning mountain, 165 Infcriptionfetting forth the ter- rors of it, 166 a 7iarrcvo cfcape offome Englifh gentlemen from an eruption of it, 172 Neapolitans, mojt eafy while the mountain burns, and ■:vhy, ib. Previous f.gn of an eruptio7i, 173 Via Sacra in Rome, %57 VICENZA, 36" Theatre there, and triumphal arch by Palladia, ib. VIENNE, an archbifhopric, once a Rom. colony, 12 Villa antique in garden of Belvi- dere, 27:} cf Cicero, 138,36/; d'F.fe, 36(5 cf Mec/enas, 367 of Horace, 368 of :^int.Vr.r:'. , ib. Adriana, ib. cf Carlo Mam!, j; 1 t>imcnetta near Milan, 473 Villa'j a general account cf them, 327 Villa'j cf Julius Cefar, 1 84 Pompey, ib. &371 C. Marius, 1 84 VillaV The GENERAL" INDEX. Villa'.'- of Hortenjiiis, 1.S5 Lurullus, ib. in_Rone,\'\de Rome. YiWiiQes m the Gemefe by the fea- ftde, very fretty, 2 2 ^■ine ?hv\ks,gate ef a church made of them., 108 Vines, the maimer of their groiving hetween St. Remo and Ge- noa, 2 2 in Lomhardy, 3 1 about Milan., 459 about Bergamo, 478 about Bolfano in the Alps, 49 5 Vineyards, firfl tve fee going from England, about Beauvais, 4 Virgil'j toi7ib, 1 74 Virgin Mary, Divine addreffes paid to her, 19 Univerfity at Padua, 41 at Naples, i r^o at Sienna, 377 at Pavia, 476 at Leyden, 512 Votive pii^m es, 1 9,24,3 8 , & 20 1 V(^ive buckler, 12 Vows offilver, iyc. 24 of majfive gold, 1 2 2 Utricoli, the old Ocriculum, 132 W. w A filing feet of par men. » T -r/ - ^^'ater, frejl:, fcarce at Vmcey 8 2 manner cf providing it, ib. A\' ax-Tapers, « t^fl/? profufion of '.hem in procejflms at Venice, 62 Way [Appian] hoi;} old, 135 the prefent condition of it, ib. Wedding Cavalcade, 8 AVindows, curious, of flained glafs. \Vindows, paper in them inftead of glafs, 9 'Winds ijjuing out of hills, 128 applied to cooling of wines, 130 Wines, of Juxerre, 7 • Ccte Rote, 1 3 Hermitage, ib. Setine, 134 C<r Cuban, j 44 Falernian, 1 77 Albanoii Genfano, 372 Monte Pulciano, & Alonte Akino, 2,T-> Bolfano in the Tircl, 49 5 Hockham, 502 Winters, temperate at Naples, 149 Wives d'ij/t'w ea/ 0/ hofpitals, yq, 154 Wolf, &?<:. z« Capitol, enquiry con- cerning it, 324 the arms of Siena, 377 Wolves /« France, 7 z« Germany, 495 Women w/'/V, ■ 30,94,503 Women »e/ /o go into the fubterra- 7ieous part of St. Peter's church at Rome, except on Monday in JVbitfun-iveek, 2 1 o Women, in HoUand, not bang'd, hut flranglcd, 514 Wood of pines, called thirty miles in length, 1 1 z Woods of chefnuts, 22 Woollen manufacture, at Abbeville, 2 at Padua, 43 Worfliip -of Ifts, ivhen aboliflfd rn Rome, and upon what occafwn, 352 Y" EL [River] 514 Masters MASTERS and their WORKS, MENTIONED IN BOTH T H li VOLUMES. A GRATE [Marco Ferrerio] Sculpt. S. Bartholomrj} exco- riated. Page 463 ALBANf. Loves, round, 294 Rinaldo ^ Anuida, 3 1 1 ALESSAN13RO ALLORI. at Poggio a Caiano, Frefco, ALGARDI, Sculpt. Altar-piece, 226 Bead Chriji, i^c. terra Cot- ta, 23:; .S. John and M. Magdr.'cn, Stucco, .240 ALPHONSO di Ferrara, Sculpt. Heads rcfcmbling the antique, 445 AMMAN AT I, Sculpt. at Padua a colcffal Hercu- les, 41 ANDREA MANTEGNA. at Padua, 40,4 r at Venice, 7!) ANDREA SACCHI. Mofaics after his dcfigns, 211 Story of Confiantine, 2 1 8 A faint ivaftiug incenfe to the B. Virgin, 248 One raifed from the tdead, ib. St. Romcaldo, iSc. 2 5 1 Def:gi!S for Mofaic in St. Peter's church, 274 deling in Pal. Barberini, 290 Koah and Chaw, 291 the baptifm of Chrift, ib. Stupes after Coregio's Cu- pola at Parma, zaz Apollo naked, cro'viting a youth, lie. 295 ANDREA DEL SARTA. atPoggio a Caiano, Frcfo, 392 ct Parma... i'- Copy^if RrtpharPs Rilratts if Lee X. if c. 4^4 ANDREA MAS T E R S, and their W O R K S, ANDREA DE^^.SARl:A>..^ .• at Milan. ....--^-^ ,,. ^ . . aJtid^^family excdlsjil, - 470 -. Madonna del uacco, a draiving, 428 ANTIQUE. , Roma triuwphans, 291. Venus, lb. Diana and Mars, 300 Some inconfideraby. opes^ 310 Some good remdins in the Circus of Flora, 335 N-ozze Aldolrandine, ■ ib. "Coriolanus; iSc. ■ 332 Paintings brought from Ovid's tomb, 3 1 7 Retiarii, i£c. Mofaic, ib. Europa, i^c. Mofaic, 291 Remains of painting in Villa ' Barherini, formerly Poni- pefs, ^ji ARPINAS [Cavalier] Mofaic after his defigns Clan. VIII. &c. 243 JR.ape of Sabines, 324 Horatii and Curia tii, ib. B. BACCICCIO. a glory with angels, 226 Angels under Cupola of St. Ag- nes, 246 BACCIO BANDINELLl, Sculpt. B. Re I. on a pedsjlal, 423 BAMBINI [Cavai] a deling, yj BAROCCIO [Federico] at Ravenna, death of St. Vita- lis, loS BARTOLI \Pietro Santo'] Copies in colours froi.i antique paintings in Ovid's tomb, 361 BASSA.N [Giacomo'] An ajfumption, 249 . .. , . A prefentaiiou., - - 2 94 BELLINO [Giovanni] Adam and Eve, 29-; a chapel, 4^9 BENOZZO, - . . Paintings in Campo Satilo -at Pifa, 382 BENVENUTOdaGAROFALO at Ferrara, a chapel, &c. 1 04 al Rome, St. Katherine, 3 1 1 BERETTONI [Nicola] a deling, 5 1 G BERNINI, Sculpt. Conjlantine on horfeback, 206 Great altar at St. Peter's, 207 Elephant fupporting an obelijk, 215 5. Terefa, 226 Statues in S, Mar. del Popolo, 247 S. Bibiana, . 223 lS'. Ludovico dying, 241 a portrait buji, 290 portraits in oyl-paintikg, ^16 Neptune, -- 1337 His original defigns for St. Pe- ter's chair, i£c. 339 a ritrattobufi, i --342 David going to encounter Go- liah, 343 yEneas carrying Anchifcs, ib. Apollo and Daphne, ib. Fountain in Piazza Navona, 3tn at Sienna, Mary Magd. and S.Jerom, 373 BIFFI [Andrea] Sculpt. Alto Relievo's about the choir at Milan, 462 BONINI. Admirable carvings lA rccod, reprefenting fcrefl trees, &c. 4+5 BONON. M A S r E K S, and their W O R K S. BONON. CARACCI, [Annibau] at Ferrara, feva-al zvorks, ef- at Rome, peciallv a fine citUng^ 104 Sufanna and the Elders, 3 1 r BORGOGNONE. «t Poggio a Caiano, a ImttU, in Irefco, 275 a holy family, 392 a battle, lar^e, in oil, 427 at Bologna, BRONZINO VECCHIO. the refurrcBion of our Lord, Ritratt.of Mch. /Ingelo, 427 437 BRUGHl'LL. at Parma, Sotnc landjkapes moji elaborate. a Venus furrcunded ivitb 3" Cupids, 455 LE BRUN. at Milan, Darius' s tent, 6 a St. John, 4-0 BRUSASORSI. CARACCI [Ludovico] Gathering the A f anna, 489 at Ferrara, a circumcifwi, lo-i C. at Cento, B. Virgin and other figures. CAMASSEI. called Guercino'j jiudy. Story of Conjlantine, 2 1 S lo- CAMILLO ROSCONI, fculpt. ot Bologna, in cb. S. J. Lateran, 2 1 6 St. 'John preaching in the Bujl of niarq. Palavicini, 295 wilder nefs, 4? 6 the four jeafons, ib. Flight into Egypt, 44:; CAMPAGNA, vide Hieronymo. at Piacenza, CARACCI [/Igoftino] in the dovie feveral paint- Communion of St Jerom, 436 ing- ^ 457 His lajl work, 456 CARAVAGGIO. CARACCI [Annibale] •in S. Maria del Popolo, 246 at Rome, CAREO CIGNAN'I. Padre Eterno in Mofaie af- Altar at St. Andr. in VaUe. ter his defign, 209 21b a deling and altar-piece in Several pieces in public palace S. Maria del Popolo, 24O at Bologna, 441 S. Gregory kneeling, &c. CARLO MARATTI. 250 his lajl public work, i .- 7 Dead Chriji, B. Virgin, ^c. Story of Conflanti>'.(, 2 1 S 241 an altar-piece in S. Maria del Farnefe gallery, 285 Popolo, 247 a Noli me t anger e, 291 a chapel in FrefcOy 24.S' Polypheme anJ Galatea, ib. an altar-p:ece [B. Virgin, and a Magdalen, 294 Chrift dejl raying tbe/erpent] Temptation of St. Jntonv, ib. ib. Car tone, a nativity, 266 \ 01- II. B b -CARLO MASTERS, and their WORKS. CARLO MARATTI. Madomia in Mofaic, nfter his dejign, 274 'Defigns for Mofaic in St. Pe- ter's church, ib. a nativity, 275 apejl, 291 Himjelf painting the marquis Palavicini, 295 'Tuccia the vejtal, 296 a deling, 3 1 6 Cardinal Majfimi, 3 1 7 Holy family, 3 75 Vifitaticn of B.Virgin, ib. CARLO SICILIANO, Figures4n brnfs, at a fountain, 302 CAROLING di Borgo, S. Sepul- chro. Paintings in the Sala Clemen- tina, 261 CAV. CALABREZE. Jltar at S. Mdr. in Valle, 226 CIAMPELLI [Agoflino] • Story of S. Bibiana, 224 GIGOLI, B.Virg.^ S.Jchn, 219 CIRO FERRL Cupola of S. Agnes, 246 Bcf.gns for Mofaic in S.Peter's church, 274 Cupids and Foliage, ^c: 295 CLAUDE de Lorain; Tioofirie landjkapes, 299 Two' large and fine landjkapes, 311 COCHI [Philip] S. Peter, Mofaic, 3 1 o COLONNA. Paintingj in a grotta, 427 CONCHA [Cava!.] Prophets in Ch. of S. J. Late- ran, 216 5, Michael, &<. B48 COREGGIO. a nativity ctlled la Notte di Coreggio, 452 a Magdalen, 453 Two Cupola's, 454 Marriage of S. Katherine, 455 Coronation of the B. Virgin, ib. The upper part of three, young girls naked, 470 Paintings in the colleHion, late of the duke di Bracciano, noiv of Orleans, 309 D. DANIEL TURINESE. Martyrdoms cf S. Lawrence and S. Katherine, 247 DANIEL DA VOLTERRA, Defcent from the crofs, 251 dentone. a hall finely painted in perfpec- tive, 444 DOMENICHINO. Chapel in S. Maria della.Vit- toria, 226 The four rounds, ivh'ich-hre en- graved by Giacomo Freii, 246 S. Francis, 248 Story cf'S. Cecilia, a whole Chapel in Frefco, 2 49 S. Andrew fcourged before Ne- ro, 250 Communion cf S.Jerom, i b. an Ecce Homo, 266 Cartone,afriar,Wc. ib. other Cartones, 267 Ripofo di Cacciay 294 Jdam and- Et)e,- q 1 1 Landfkfipes in Frefco, 335 DOMENICO GUIDE Sculp). a dead Chrijl, 231 , F. M A S T lARIXATI [Paolo] Cirrijl fealing the K R S, and tlicir VV O R i^ S. GIOTTO. , , -^ rd Fiulua, a cnicifixm, Qf. 38 FAVI [Co!uu] Copies after the Caracci, muUitudCy 4«9 TEDE DI GALLITIA. Ritratto of a friar, Caricatura's, ivith a pen. FIAMINGO. Sculpt, /liigels, (sjc. Cajia Sufanna, ERANCESCHINO Bolognefe. al Ge/ioa, deling of the church of the yinnufuiata, 2 5 ;';/ lownhoufe, a deling, 2 b at Bologna, Death of S.Jofepb, FRATOLIN.-i. Mignature and Crayons. 46S ib. 233 252 453 392 G. GABBIANI. Apcthecfis of Cofmo 1 , 392 Copy cfCoreggid's marriage of S. Katherine. 45'^ G ALAR DO FIAMINGO. /ingel fetching 6. Peter out of prifon, 30J GIACOMO DEL PO. at Naples, 1 3 7 GIORGIONE. at Padua, faints, 4 1 Outfide of houfes, 42 at ienice, outjide of hotifes, 4«',7.> in fclMol of S. Mark, ■/ 2 GIOSEPPE CHIARI. deling in palace Barherini, Plato in the cradle, and bees, 290 at Rome, bark, at S. Peter's, 21 I at Pifa, in Campo Santo, j8? GIOVANNI di S. Giovanni. a Prefco painting on the out- fide of a houfe at Florence, 421 Summer apartments in the pa- lace Pitti, ib. GIOVANNI FRANCESCO BOLOGNESE. Landjlapes in I refco, 295 GIOVANNI GIROLAMO [Padre] Paint i?igs and draivings, cr<.. GIOVANNI DA UDENA. Gr.Ttefque figures, GIULIO CLOVIO. Mignatures, GIULIO ROMANO. at Venice, a MadaniiA, 434 161 78 at Rome, an altar-piece, at I'lorence, Marcus Aurelita on horfeback in the Capitol, a drawing, 42 S at Modena, three battles, 45:? at Parma, banquet of the gods, a drawine, 456 GIUSTO. at Padua, death of S. Chriflo- phcr, 41 LEGROT. Sculpt. iij Ch. S. y. Lateran in Grand Giefu, Beatus StaniflauL 7'obit,(s'c. •■ S. Frauds di P*iula, ijfc. B.Rei: -'249 GUERCIN DEL CENTO. at Genoa, a S. Franfis, 26 D b ; ' 'GUER- ai6 224 225 2M MASTERS, and their WORKS. GUERCIN DEL CENTO. at Cento, in churches and honfes, 106,107 at S. Marino, the flaying of S, Bartholome^v, 133 at Rome, an Aurora, 334 Landfkapes in Frefco, ^ZS GUGLIELMO DELL A PORTA. Sculpt. Piety and Abundance, 187 GUIDO. at Paris, David and Goliah, 6 at Padua, a S.John, 41 at Ravenna, a chapel, 108 at Naples, S. Francis, 1 52 at Rome, martyrdom of S. Pe- ter, 2 43 S. Michael, (^c. 248 Copy of Raphael's S. Cecilia, 249 Padre Eterno, i^c. in Frefco, ib. S.Andrew going to be crucify' d, 250 Stcry of S. Cecilia, 241 a deling in the Vatican, z66 a chapel in Monte Cavallo, 274 aboyajleep, 290 a faint praying, 2 9 1 r ,.^ M. Magdalen con piedi nudi, " ' '" ib. another, ib, Chrijl ajleep, and ^Aadonna, 292 Card. Spada, 299 an Europa, 300 S. Paul the hermit, and S. An- tonio, 303 a crucifixion, 3 1 o the Aurora, ib. Andromeda, 31 1 a portrait, 317 at Bologna, fever at pe<es in the public palace, 442 HAMERANI lErmenigildusI a model in -wax, B. R. S. Luke, &'c. 234 HIACINTHO BRANDL deling in S. Carlo in Corfo, 248 HIERONYMO CAMPAGNA. 1 at Padua, fculpture, q,j HIERONYMO RUMANL at Padua, an altar-piece, 40 HOLBEIN. at Venice, Sir 'Tho, More (fo called) and his family, 76 at Florence, Martin Luther, 405 Sir Rich. Southwell, ib. JOHN DE BOLOGNA. Sculpt, Rape of Sabine women, &c. 419 Coloffal figure, reprefenting the Apennine, 43 a Neptune, iyc. at a fountain in Bctogner, 442 JULIO ROMANO, vide Giulio. K. KNELLER {Sir Godfrey] Lord SOMERS, 421 LANFRANC [Caval.-]. at Venice, the B. Virgin as in effumption, 79 at Naples, pool cfBethefda, 1 52 a deling, 157 3 LAN- M A S l K R .\ ur LANFRANC [Caval.] at Rome, cupola of S. Andrea in Fal/e, 226 a Madonna, full length, ?. 4 ;-> S. Sebajlian carry d by An- gels, 290 Cieling ef a portico, 3+2 LASANIUS [7^. Pet.] Sculpt. Alto Relievo's at the front of the dome at Milan^ 462 LELY [Sir Peter] Copies of his beauties at IFinJ- for, 429 LEONARDO DA VINCI. two -women, 290 S.Katherine, 291 Leda, 295 Mechanical de/igns, twelve vo- lumes in folio, ^6y Caricatura's, 468 Cart ones of the heads and hands in his lafl f upper, 47 i ether drawings of his, ib. an old copy in oil of his lajl fupfer, 475 LIBERI [Caval] at Venice, Pal. Gritnani, a portico or gallery, 76 in the Logietta, ib. LORENZETIO BOLOG- NESE. Sculpt. Statues after dejigns cf Ra- phael, 247 LORENZO GHIBERTI. Alto- Relievo's on gates, ^q6 i.OVIGI GARZI. at Naples, a cieling, 15^ at Rome, a deling, 227 Angels and a glory, 247 LUCA GIORDANO. at Naples, Frefco in a churchy 152 at Floreme, the cieling of the Marq. Rsccardt's gallery, 424 d rJicir W O R K S. S.LUKE. Madonna's at Vemie^ 5 1", .17 at Rome, 222 near Bologna, 447 a defcription of the Madonna's afcrib'd to him, 5 1 at Lorcto, image of the Ma- donna carv'd by him, 1 2 2 M. MARCELLOPROVENCIALIS Paul V. [Borghefe] Mofaicy 294 MASSARI [LUCIO] a holy family, 392 MASSIMIS [Caval. d^] at Naples, a cieling, 151 MATTEO DI LECCIA. Angels defiroying thefeven mor- tal Jins, 261 MECCARINO. at Sienna, figures on floor of Dome, 275 at Pifa, in Campo Santo, 382 MELOZZO DA FORLI. Fore-fhorten'd figures removed- from Tribuna of S. Apofloli, 274 MICHAEL ANGELO da Bat- taglia. Majfamello's revolution in Na- ples, 298 MICHAEL ANGELO BUO- NAROTA. at Naples, a crucifixicn, 155 of li'hich the oldfiory. at Rome, others, 216,294 at Rome, S. John Lateran, an annunciation, 216 Mcfcs in monument cf Ju- lius II. Sculpt. 232 Bujt of our Saviour, 235 Statue of cur Saviour, 257 Lafl JiJgwcm, 263 MICHAEL MAS T E R S, and MICHAEL ANGELO. '^ai Rome, Prophets, fd>yls,&c. 261 . Crucifiximi of S. Peter, ib. Converfion of S, PauL, ib. His defign forr-cftsring the fTorfo, 26S Hcademta dells Forze, 290 His dream, 292 Mofes fir iking the rock, B. Rel. 297 Rape ef Ganymede, 309 at Florence, •••..T ^ Sculptures in a chapel, 423 Books, with Jketches of ar- chiteSlure, 42 7 His Rjtratto by Bronzino, ib. MILANI [Valeriano] Defigns of human figures^ large as life, 440 MOCHI [Francefco] Sculpt, S. Veronica, . 207 MOD A VINO DA MODENA. Figures in Terra Cotta, per- fectly refemiling living per- fi"s, 153 MOLA. An altar-piece, 248 Mofes breaking the tables, 262 a nativity, ib. Jofeph and his brethren, 275 MORANDI. an altar-piece, 242 MURATORE [Dotncnico] a chapel, ib. MUTIANO. S.Francis, 248 Defcent of the Holy Ghoji, 260 N. NICOLA del'Abbate. Friezes in Injlitulo at Bologna, 441 ihcir WORKS, O. OLIVIER I [Paolo] Sculpt. . Apollo flaying Marfyas, 337 Friendjhip, ib. ORGAGNA [Andrea] Paintings in Canpo Santo at Pifa, . 3S2 Dante's PJtralto. 395 PALMA. Defcent of the Holy Ghofi, 246 PAOLO DE MATTHEIS. at Naples a Cupola, 153 PAOLO VERONESE. at Paris, a lafi fupper, 6 at Padua, martyrdom of S. Gi- uflina, 40 Outjide of houfes, ^ 2 /it Venice outfide of houfes, 4S in Doge's palace, 5 7 in Cb. of S. Sebafiian, forty pieces of him, 6 1 in convent of S. George, the .marriage at Cana, 62 at Pal. Grimani, the finding of Mofes, 70 at Pal, Pifani, Darius's tent, y6 at Pal. Obizzi, near Bat- taglia, feven rooms, 102 feveral pieces in the public palace, 442 at Verona, S. George urged to worfJoip a fiatue of Apollo, 489 S, Barnabas blejfmg a fick per f on, ib. PARIS BOUDONE. at Venice in fcliool of S. Mark, 72 PAR- MASTERS, an PARMEGIAKO. a holy family and S. Katherhie, 292 Marriage of S. Katherini, 2a+ Ala Jon ua della Rofa, 444 His inifirefs, Jnfea, 455 PARODI. Sculpt. at Ge>iM, 25 at Paduay, 37 PAUL BRILL. Laudjkapes in the Fatican^iGy ftveral latidfkapes^ 3 1 1 PERINO del Vaga. Golden chain of Jupiter, 3 1 S fome paintings, ■^^S PJETRO da Cortona. at Naples, death of a faint, i^r. at Rome, fide Cupola^s at S. Peter'' s after defigns of his, 209 Story of S. Bibiana, 224 Cteling, i^c. in the Ch. of S. Phil. Neri. 226 Saul reft or ed to fight, 24!^ an altar-piece, 254 Defigns for Mofaics in S. Pe- ter's church, 274 deling in Pal Barlerini,2S^ at l-loreme, Cieiings in Pal. Pitti, 42 1 at Alilan, Drawings, capital, 471 PIETRO FtRUCilNO. Hiflcrtes of Old and New Te- ft anient, 261 Madonna's, i^c. 303 a Madonna, excellent, 47 ^ PIETRO. DA PIETRIS. Car tones in the Vatkatk, 267 a prcfentation, 295 PJNTURICCIO. the finding the crofs, 223 a chapel in S. ?*I(tria del Pc- pilo, 246 3'» d I heir W O R K S. I'LNTURICCiO. ^ upon defigns of Raphael, 37c PIOLA. ^ Animals, POLYDORE. Cbiaro Ofcuro in tht Vatican, 265 a hunting;, ijc. 3 1 7 pomi<:rancio. a cieling and crucifixion, 1 2 i PORDENONE. at Venice, outfidt of houfes, 4» at Piacenza, in a church, paint- ings in Frefco, 45^8 POUSSIN [GafparJ Landfiapes in h'refco, 232 Sea-ftorm, with Jonah in the whale, 295 Landfkapes in Frefco, 307 fever al landfkape^ 3 1 1 POUSSIN [Nicola] at Paris, fevenfacraments, 6 at Rome, the death of Ger- manic us, 291 Copy of figures on the Vas Snrberinum, -292,319 a dance, and Time playing on the harp, 3 , o Copy of Nozze'-yildobran- dine. 3>9 Sr^en facr anient s, i b . I'adre POZZO. his Cupola, 224 Cieling, il\ PRESCIANI. .s\ Peter Martsr,' ^ 1 1 PRIM A TICCIO ■[ Abbate] Friezes in hiftituto at Bologna, 4I« PROCACINO [Camillo] at Genoa, a lafl fuftper, 25 PROCACINO [Jul. Cafar] Slaurhier cf the bmoccnls, 470 PU.- M A S T li R S, and their WORK S. PUGET. 'Sculpt. MarfeilieSy Hold de Fillr, 15 Ge,'wa, S. Sebajlian, ^c. 25 , fenke, an ajfumplion, B. R. '^ -q .,-». J " R. RAFAELLE di Monte Lupo. Figures after dejigns of Michael Angeh, 232 RAMELLI [Padre] Limnings^ 2§i RAPHAEL. at Loreto, a I^Iadonna, &c. -; ^t FolignOy a MadoJiim, i^c. lb. at Naples, a Madonna, i si at Rome, a Car tone, 2 1 7 Prophet Ifaiah, 229 S. Luke painting the B. Vir. 'Twelve apofiles, 242 Defigns of his executed in fculpture, 247 Freshets and fybils, 251 transfiguration, ib. The paintings of what we call Raphael's bible, ^(i^ his great works in the Vati- can, ib. & ieq. Cart one, lower part of trans- figuration, - 266 Madonna, Chrifi andS.Jobn, 275 Galatea, Pfycbe, (^c. in the little Farnefe, 288 His tniftrefs, 292 Ihe three graces, after the antique, 294 Chrijl carried to burial, ib. RAPHAEL. Aladanna's and clhcr pieces, Bartclns and Baldus, 3 1 1 a Ritrattc, 3 1 7 at Sienna, hiflory of JEneas Sylvius, ^ys at Florence, drawings, 416 at Mcdena, a Madonna, 453 at Parma, Madonna del Gate, 454 Mad.onna, with Chrifi lying on his back, ib. at Piacenza, a Madonna, &'c. at Bologna, a drawing for the S. Cecilia, 444 at Milan, feveral drawings, 470,471 RICCIO [Andrea'] Sculpt. at Venice, Ada7n and Eve, 54 ROMANELLI. deling of a Sacrifly, 233 The Capella Seer eta, 262 a Bacchanal, 290 ROSA ALBA. a girl with a. pigeon, 234 RUBENS. the Luxemburgh gallery, 5 the IVifdom of Solomon, 246 a duchefs of Buckingham, 405 SALVIATI. at Venice, in public library, 60 SANSOVINO. Sculpt. at Padua, 37 at Venice, 55,60 at Rome, two fine monuments, 247 SANXI MASTERS, :)ANTI DI rno. at Florence, painting in fum- mer apartments of the pal. i'itti, 42 1 SCIPIOC.A'ETANO. Bcnm Olympia., 3 1 1 SEBASTIAN DEL PIOMBO. Adoration of the Shepherds, SIMON DI PESARO. at Pefr.ro, 1 2 o at Bologna, fe"jeral pieces in Pal. San. Pieri, 443 SOLYMINI. at Genoa. Senate-houfe. 26 at Naples, .in a facrifiy of S. Paul, Simon Magus and Cottvetfwn of S. Paul^ Cephalus and Aurora, 1 5 1 in facrifiy of S. Domenico, ib. S.Chriftopher, 153 SOPHONISJJA ANGUSSOLA. Her own portrait, isC 456 STEPIIANO MADEKNA. Scidpt. S. Civcilia, 2 40 STRADA [Oftavius] Effigies cf the etnperors, with a pen 270 alfo 427 TEMPEST A. Sea-ftorms, 307 Triumphs of Lcje and of Vir- tue. 310 TIARINI. Jofeph begging pardon of the B. Virgin, 436 TI3ALD1 [A'.cgrino] Stay of PoLpheme, i^c. 440 3fpt..JI. and their WORK S. TINTOUET. at Venice, outftde of houfes, 4«>7J in church of S. George; 6 1 ;■« fchool of S. Rocco, near forty pieces of his, 6^ in fchool of S. Mark, fome of his hefl performances, hands and feet, 7^ at Verona, S. John bapfizing Chrijl, ^ 3o TITIAN. at Padua, fevernl flories, 38 at Venice, outftde of hottfef 48,75 at Pub. Library, 60 in church tf Salute, 6 1 in fchool of S. Rocco, an An- nunciation, 70- in church of S. John and Paul, the Death of S. Peter Martyr, called his Mafier-piece, 72 in fchool cf Carita, Prefen- tation of B. Virgin, 7 ^ at Pal. Barberigo, a S. Se- bcjlian ; his lajt work, 76 Venus and Cupid with a lock- mg-glafs, 79 at Naples, Cafar Borgia, .58 oi Rotiie, C.efar Borgia and. Macbiavel, 294 the Graces hoodwinking Cu- pid, ib. His fchool- mafler, i b . Several Venus' s, 295 Several ritr at to" s, 299 JVcman with looking -glafSj 303 His even portrait, 316 Two portraits, ^ 1 7 C c TITIAN. MASTERS, and their WORK S. TITIAN. at Florence^ Charles V. on horfeback, 406 at Modena^ the tribute -money JJjewn to Chrifi ; it is called the Monet a, 452 at Parma^ fame ritratto's of Paul III. 455 Danae and Cupid., ib. at Milan., a Holy Family^ his own ritratto in it., 470 at Vercna, an Ajfumption, 489 TULLIO LOiMBARDO. Sculpt. at Padua, 37 VASARI. Story of Admiral Colignv, i b . VELASQUES [Don Diego de] Innocent X. 311 TheVlCENTINE. Curious works on rock cryftal., reprefenting facrifices, i^c. 414 VICTOR CARPACCIO. at Veyiice., chapel of S. Orfola., her Jl cry, 72 at Ferrara, 1 04 VICTORIA [Alexander] Sculpt. Two fine Jlatues, 480 V. VALSOLDINO LOMBARDO. Sculpt. Statue cf Sixtus V. 221 VANDERWERF. Several paintings, VANDYKE. K. Charles I. his ^een, VASARI [Giorgio] A pope condemning herefy 5^5 292 260 ZUCCHARO. Stoiy of S. Pudentiana, in Mo*- faic from defigns of his, 231 a deling in Capella Paulina, 261 a chapel in the Vatican, 266 cupola at Florence, 394 Drawings for it, 428 a hall in convent of Carthuftam near Pavia, ^y6 S O M E SOME WORKS, WHOSE AUTHORS are not mentioned. STATUE of S. Chrippher, ten yards high. Page 6 of S. Theodore, 4 c) of Gen. Morcfini, ry of Get:. SchuUnberg, ib. of /ilexander VII. at Ravenna, 1 1 1 of Urban VI I I at Pefaro, i 20 oj Sixttis V. at LoretOy ■ i 2 1 if S. Januarius at Naples, i cq of Cardinal Caraffa, ib. S. Peter, ancient, 208 Alex. Farnefe, with river Scheld, &(. 287 Pius V. at Pavia, 476 Ercjmus at Rotterdam, 507 Statues at Au^furg, 498 Statues equeftral, in iaris, of French Kings, ■ 4,5 in Padua, of Gattamekta, 59 C c 2 Statues WORKS, whofe Authors are not mentioned. Statues equeftral, in Venice^ of Bfirtolomeo Coglioni-, — — . 73 in Ferrara, of Mar. of Efie, and Duke Borfo, 105 in Piacenza, of Alexander Farnefe, and Ranuccio, 457 Buft of Francis Carrara, — ■ — 58 Bufts of philofophers at Ferrara, ■ — — 105 Bull of Innocent X. — 304 Madonna'Sj in what attitude fainted^ along the roads., IS c. in Lombardy, 32 A N T I Q^U E S ANTIQUES IN BOTH VOLUMES. A ftands for buji ; b. r. for bajfo-relievo : the reft are whole figures. What is included in () denotes where fuch a thing is. A Don IS {Capitol) — — Page 323 JEgypt\a.n idols., granite, (ib,) '^ 321 i^scuLAPius, {Villa Farnefe) 238 with the ferpent, (Giufiintani) 302 tvith Telefphorus, 317 at Maufol. Augufii, ^57 AcLiBOLUS &: Malachbelus, b.r. {Villa Giujliniani) 332 M. Agkipp A, b. at Florence, — — 3cj6 Agrippina, it'ith the young Nero (Capitol) 322 ( Villa Ludovijia ) 334 Alcibiades, b. {Pal. Santa Croce) — — 298 {Capitol) — — 322 Alexander, b. (Barberini) ^ — — 290 with a helmet and armour, {Card. Albani) 313 ' as taken out of the river Cydnus, {Florence) - 419 Alexander Scvtaus, b. {Capitol) — — {22 Altar, on occafion of a tauribole at Lions, — i o with Labours of Hercules, b. r. {Giujliniani) 304 with Fauni on each fide, b. r. — — 305 with Sacrifice to Bacchus, b.r. (Bracciaiio) 310 Altars, with Greek infcriptions, {at Venice) 60 Amalthea, giving young Jupiter milk out of horn, {Giujliniani) 304 Amphitrite, {Florence) — — 404 Andromeda, (ib.) — — — ib. Annius Verus, {Fal. Santa Croce) — — • 298 {Card. Albatii) — ^ — 3 < 4 Anti- A N T I Q^ U E S. Antinous, (hi Vatican) — 267 (Villa Mattel) .338 as a Bacchus (Villa Cafali) 340 b. (at Florence) oq6 Antisthenes, (Card. Albani) 2 13 Antonia Augusta, b. {Villa Borghefe) 342 Antoninus Pius, and others of the Antonine family, (Card. Albani) 314 (Rufpoli) 3 1 6 M. Antonius, (Villa Ciufliniani) 332 Apollo, (Vatican) 267 b. with harp and tripod, (Giujlinia?ii) 302 with harp and pleHrum, (ib.) 304 in alto-relievo, admirable, ib. head and trunk feparate, {Conte di Fede) 3 1 6 {Capitol) 3,0 coloffal fragments, (ib.) — 323 {Villa de Medici) 331 {Villa Ludovijia) — — — 3>3 {Villa Palombara) . 336 with a violin, {Villa Montalta) — ib. another at Florence, 404 Intagliato {Florence) 414 larger than life, {Venice) 60 Apotheofis of Homer, b. r. {Cclonna) — 307 of Antonius and Faufiina, • 348 Aratus, b. {Pal. Santa Croce) 298 Archimedes, b. {Capitol) 22 Aristoteles, b. {I'atican) 267 b. r. (Gualtieri) 306 A-RKiA &c'Pjs.i:\5%,{p'illa Ludovifta) 334 AscLZPi AD us, {Card, y-jlbani) — — 314 Atalanta & HippoMANES, (5<?r^m«/) 291 Augustus, "wzV^ fl corona civica, (/^ifKw) • 5o {young) on horfiback, {Farnefe) 285 in Capitol, 322 M. AuRELius, b. {Barberini) — — — 290 in copper, as haranguing his army, (ib.) ib. [yottng'] {Giujliniani) 303 [full grown] (ib.) 304 Anatellon (Card. Albani) b. 3 1 4 others of M. Aurelius, (ib.) ib. his Jlory,b.r. (Savelli) 317 {Capitd) 322,324 M. Aurelius, equeflral ftatue, (ib ) 320 b. {Villa Borghefe) 341 eqi'.eflral fiatue, {at Pavia) 476 A N T I Q^ U E S. B. BAcchanal, h. r, {Santa Croce) 298 hoy, fervant at Bacchanals, (Spada) — 299 on vafe, {Pllla Bcrghije) — — ^42 Baccliante, {Chigi) ' — — 296 (Giu/lmiani) — — jo2 with grapes, (ib.) — — 303 Intagl. {Florence) — — 414 Camee, (ib.) — — 416 Bacchantes, I/,r. d» altar, {Barberini) ■ 291 Bacchus, drunk, {Chigi) — — 296 {Capitol) 2 11 Kith the Tyger and a Satyr, {Villa Cafali) 340 and hattnus, {Florence) — — 297 (Hid Faunus, {Venice) 6^ Bambino Romano, {Spado) — 299 Bafkets, with eagles a-top, capitals to pillars, {Mattel) 302 Bafib-rclievo, in Mofaic, {Majfimi) 317 Belisarius, {Villa Borghefe) — 342 Boat, — — — — 33S Bocca dcUa Verita, — — 253 Brutus, with heads of his Jons in his hands, (Barberini) 290 /-. {Capitol) — 325 and Portia, {Villa Mattel) 3^7 Bull and Cow, {Bracciano) — — 308 Bulla AuREA, [y'ldQ the plate of page ^i^-^ 34^ Ci^tSTiARii, {Villa Aldobrandina) — — 335 Cj^sTfARius, {Card, yilbani) jig Caligula, b. porphyry, {Chigi) — — 296 Bajfalte, {Card. Atbani) ^ 315 Camillus, niinijler at facrifices, {Capitol, 325 {Hcrence) — 397 Caniik{[\ck from Jerufalem, reprefcnted in b. r. 3+8 Caracalla, b. {I'arnefe) — — ^^7 Castor & Pollux, {Bracciano) 3'" {Capitol) — — 321 {Villa Borghefe) — — 34 1 Cafts from the pillars and flatues at Rome., 23 + Centaurs, 7nale and female, {Giujliniani) 3"4 teaching Apollo, {Villa Ludovifia) 333 ivith Cupid on back, {Villa Borghefe) 342 Ceres, A N T I CL U E S. CzKZS, {Filla Cafali) — — 340 Cicero, (Capitol) — — 326 {Villa Mattel) b. — — 338 Circus Max. Intagl. {Florence) — — 414 Cii\erns, great, of oriental granite, {Villa de Medici) 328 Cities ofAfta, reprefented by figures in b. r. at Pozzuoli, 186 Claudius, {Rufpcli) — — 315 Cleopatra, {Florence) — — 404 dying, {Vatican) — — 2 68 {Chigi) — — 2p6 {Bracciano) — — 308 {Villa de'Mcdii;i) — — 330 with viper about her arm, {Ciufiiniani) 303 Clitia, {Bracciano) — — 30a COLUMNA ROSTRATA, 323; Com MOD us, as a Hercules, {Vatican) — — 267 yovAig, {Card. Albani) — — 3-14 {Ru[poli)b. — — . 316 Consul, fitting, {Giujliniani) — — 3c 5 Copia, Egyptian, {Card. Alberoni) — — '313 at Maufokum Augujli, — — 357 CoRioLA-Nvs 8iY£.TUKiA, {Villa Borghefe) — 341 {Baths of Titus) a paintings 3.52^ CoRNELLA Salonina, b. {Villa Borghefe) — 342 Country-man, zvith kid, {Villa Cafali) — 3^0 CuRTius, altiffimo-relievo, {Villa Bcrghefe) — 341 Cupid, flringing a bow, {Venice) bo and Pfyche, {Florence) — — 35b DEM0STHE^fES, b. {Farnefe) — — 286 Diana, with a dog, {Giujltniani) — — 302 Ephefia, multimammea, (ib.) ^04, b. {Capitol) — — 322 DiDius JuLiANUs, b. {Rufpoli) — — 315 Diogenes, quali mifturus, {Chigi) — — 296 {Card. Albaniyb. — — 314 {Capitol) — — 322 DiRCE, tied to horns of bull, {Farnefe) 284 where found, — — ^53 DoMiTiANus &D0MITIA, {Card. Albani) b. — 315 Cohf[cilhead,{-:apitol) — — 323 Domitilla, intagl, {Florence) — — 414 3-A 301 •j02 A N T I Q^ U r. S. i:. AN Eiglc, (nila Math'ij — — --7 Egena, (Filla Ludoi'ifia) Mmpcrois as I'/iidiaUrs, (Mattel) — — lujls offeviraly {Ciujlimam) {Rujpoli) — — ;^i6 ( Capit ol) • 322 Epicurus, b. {Card. /llbani) — — 314 Euripides tivo [b.] (ib.) ib. EuROPA, i^c. Aiofaic, [Barberhii) 291 Elements, three, b. r. {Florence) 397 E. FASTI Confulares,(C<z/)//o/) — — 325 a Eather, mother, and daughter, all in one Jlonc, b. r. (I'llla Caj'ali) 340 Fauni on each fide of an altar, {Giuftiniani) 305 feveral of them, {Rufpoli) ••• 316 Faun us, zvith his pipe, {Bracciano) 8 ivith a young goat on his back, (ib. ) 310 picking thorn out of Satyr's foot, b. r. (Villa Giujliniam) 332 with flute, {Villa Borghefc) 342 at Florence, — — 409 Faui\.'ma. fen. b. {Card. Jlbani) 314 Jun. (ib.) — — ib. (Capitol) 322 if. r. (Villa Palombara) 336 b. (Villa Borghefe) 342 Flora, (Farnefe) — — 283 of Sign. Ant. Borioni, ib, (Capitol) 3" (Capitol) b. — — ib. Funeral banquet, b. r. (Verona) 485. G Anymede and eagle, (Venice) 60 Gladiator, dead (ib.) >b. (Farnefe) Rome, -^3 (Chighi) J9<> dying (Piombino) 'I'- (Villa Borghefe) .^4» Gladiators, (Giuftiniani) 5^5 • fight of, with lion, bear and tyger, (SaveJli) 3»7 in Mofaic,(Maffmi) *' A Goat fa atching his ear ( Barberini) - 9 - a large back-^oat, (Giuftiniani) 5°- Vol. II. D cl '//-^ A N T I Q^ U E S. The three Gi-2,cti, {Rtifpoli) — — 315 {Villa Borghefe) 342 Supporting a vafe, (ib.) 341 with Cupid and Pfych'e etnbracing, b. r. {Mattei) 301 Golden candleftick of Jerufalem reprefented i;; b. r. 34S H. H Adrian, (Card. Albani) Rome, ■ 3 1 4 {RufpoH) 315 Harpocrates, (6'/z(/^/«/rt»i) 302 Heads in arches of the amphitheatre at Capua, 1 46 Hercules -Slgyptius, b. 267 ivith club and apples, {Capitol) 325 in garden of the Hefperides {Villa Giuftiniani) b. r. 33 2 Farnefe, — — 282 as Farnefe, in the CznctW^r'u, 281 Searing necks of hydra, (Verofpi) ~ 296 with the dragon, {Giuftiniani) -^ 302 labours of, andfacrifice to him, b. r. 304 {Savelli) 3 1 7 as the Farnefe Intagl. {Florence) • ■ • 414 and Antaus, (ib.) 419 as the Farnefe, (ib.) ■ 420 Hermaphrodite, _/7^ep/«^, {Villa Borghefe) Rome,. 342 {Florence) 416 Hermes Hierogrammateus, b. {Rome) 267 Heros Aventinus, {Capitol) — — -^ 322 Hiero, b. {Capitcl) ib. Hippomanes rt«i Atalanta, (5^r^«7';;i) 291 Homer, b. {Vatican) 267 {Farnefe) — •^— 285 {Giufliniani) — — 303 four of them, (Card. Albani) 314 HomerV Apotheofis, b. r. {Colonna) 306 Horks on Monte Cavallo, — — 273 four, brafs gilt, {Venice) • 51 head and neck of ah of e, {Naples) -— — 15S Hygieia, {Giuftiniani) — — 503,305 Hymens, {Bracciano) 310 I, J Anus, b. {Vatican) Rome. 267 loLE, Cameo, {B'lorence) — ■ — 4.16' Iphigenia going to be facrificed, b. r. on vafe, (Medici) Rome, o,x~j Is ID IS Fompa, (Mattei) ■ 301 {Card. Albani) 314 his with fjlrum, (ib.) . — 313 isis A N T I Q^ U E S. Is IS-, {Capitol) ■521 two of her c.t Tivoli , 367 and Harpocrates, ixjitb a cornucopia, {Barlerini) 2.<)i JvLiA Mammea, (Kufpoli) 315 JvliaMjesa, {FillaCafa/i) .■?40 Julia Pi a, as an Idle, [Rufpoli) ji6 Julius CitSAR, b. {Barbcrini) 290 (Giujliniani) 302 in his facerdotal habit, {Braccicwo) .joS {Capitol) . 3^2- b. {Villa Borghije) 34* {Florence) Z^^ Juno Sispita, {Florence) 4^4 Jupiter, ahead, {Giujliniani) 302 Jupiter Ammon, very ancient, {Venice) 60 Col offal, at Naples, 1 50 Pluvius, 347 Scrapis, {Villa Mattel) 3i^ JusTiKiAN Emp. {Villa Giujliniani) 3^^ L. LAocooN', in Vatican, {Rome) 267 where found, 35' a fmall one at Florence, — — 404 Latus Clavus, — — 345 'Lzda, Jlanding, {Venice) 60 Leda, Cupid and Swan, {Villa Ludovifta) b. r. 3?3 with Swan, at Floretice, J 9^ Lion, niczo-relievo, {Barberini) 2^9 {Medici) — — .^27 and hoife {Capitol) 5-.? Uxons, brought from Athens, {Venice) ^'i hunted, {Mattei) Rome, b.r. jor {Rcfpiglioft) b. r. 3 ''O Lucius'Verus, b. {Barberini) -^)0 {Villa Bcrghefe) A Lynx in Pavonazza, {Card. Albani) M. MARCthhvs, b. {Capitol), Rome, 3'-- Marcus Aurehus, vide AmcVius, Marforio (Capitol) 3^* - Mar.us,(C^///./) - ^3" Marmora Farnefiana, — '5j'^°7 Mars, {Villa Ludovifta) — 3.-i4 at rcpofe, (ib.) — '^• Cameo, {Florence) — ,/''^ D d 2 Mar- A N T I Q^ U E S. Marsvas excoriated, and Apollo with hisjkin, {Giujliniatii) Rome, 303' tied up to a tree, {Villa de Medici) — 3^1 A Mafk at Venice, 60 Mafl^cs {in Vatican) Rome, 268. {Gitijliniani) 303 a great one on a hofs head, {Card. Albani) 313' {Villa Mattei) ' 33S. Meafures, {Capitol) 323,326 Medusa's head, porphyry, {Colonna) — - 306 Meleager hunting, b. r. {Mattel) 301 flat, in Villa Ludovifw, 3^3 Mercurius Hierogrammateus, b. 267 Meffenger {Capitol) 325. {Villa Borghefe) 342. Meta of Circus, {Villa Cafali) 340. Mito and Bull, Catneo, {blorence) 416 MiLTiADEs, b. {Rome) 267: MiNERVA,7?^/^. zvhich was worjhip'din her temple, {Giujliniani) 258,302 Minotaur, {Florence) — — 404. "MiKMiLLO dying, {Piombino) Rofne, 296 MiTHRiDATES, marbk MedagUone, {Capitol) 325 Morpheus, {Spada) — 299 Mufes, {Bracciano) — 308' ^'TARCISsus, at Florence, — ^^y. \ Nero, b. {Card. Albani) Rome, — 315-- {Rufpoli) — ib. in facerdotal habit, {Villa Ludovifia) 334- Nerva, b. {Card. Albani) 315 Nile, in Vatican, — — 268 Niobe and her children, {Villa de Medici) — 328'. Copy of one of them, — — 330 ^M^ii^l dances, b.r. {Villa Borghefe) — 341 O. ORacular head in roflb antico {Villa Ludovifia) 334 Ofluarium, with infcript. {Gualtieri) — 299- {Villa Mattei) ■ — 337 Otho, head, {Card. Albani) — — 312 P. PAINTINGS, Roma Triumphans, — — 291 Venus, — — ib. Diana and Mars, — — 300 Some inconfiderable ones, — 310 Some good remains in the circus of Flora, ^^s Nozze Aldobrandinc, — — ib. Paint- A N T I CL U E S. Paintings, Coriolantts., &c. — — 352 Paintings brought from Ovid's Tcnil>, 3 1 7 Retiarii, ^c. Mofaic^ — ■ — ib. Europa^^c. Mofiiic, 29 c Ranains of painting in Villa Barkrini, formerly Potnpey'Sy 371 FAtLASy hrger than life, at Venice, 60 ^. {Barberini) Rome, 290 at Florence, . 396 Intagl. (ih.) 4,4 Pan, b. {Capitol) 322 J Panther, with figure on it, (Giiiftiniani) 304 Papirius and his mother, (Villa Ludovifia) 334 Paris, and three gcdJeJfes, [Florence) 39(5 and tzvo gcddejjes, Rome, (Cualtieri) . 300 Yasqv IK, at Rome, 321 Peacocks, in Vatican, 272 Persius, ivatering Pegafus, {Spada) 299 taking /Indromeda by the hand, (Card. Albani) 3 1 3 Pertinax, {at Venice) 60 Peruque, in flone, on a bufl, {Giufliniani) Rome 304 Pescennius Niger, Intagl. {blorence) 414 Phrygian commander, (ib.) 397 Pindar, b. {Giufiiniani) Rome^ 303 {Card. Albani) 314 Pine-apple, {in Vatican) 272 PiTTACus, b. (ibj — 267 Plato, b. (ib.) — ib, two of them, {Card. Jlbani) — 313 {Capitol) — 322 PoMPEY, (Spada) — 298 b. (Card. Albani) — 314 (LordMalpas) — ib. PopPiEA, (Capitol) — 322 VoKTiA &c^Kvrv%,{Villa Mattel) — 337 Pr2etorian/c/^/>;v, frff. />. r. (ib.) — 301 Priapus, facrifice to him, b. r. (ib.) — ib. A?nektk,{Giuftiniani) — 303 Proserpina, rape of, b. r. (Mattel) — 301 VxoLztA/Evs SoT^K, b. (Vatican) 267 Ptolomy, (Bracciano) 3'<^ Pudicitia, (Car^. y^/^fi«/) 3.' 3 Pyrrhls, alto-relievo, (ib.) ^^^ in fine armour, (Mafjimi) Z ' 7 Intaglio, (Ilorence) 4' 4 Pvthagcras, b. (Vatican) 2()7 K . A N T I Ct U E S. R. RAM, {Farnefe) — 285 {Giujtiniani) — 303 cut open, {Villa Mciitei) — 338 Ret'iar]], ^c. Mofaic, (Majiini) — 317 A Rogus, l^. r. {Barberini) — 291 Roma Triuinphans, (Giujiiniam) — 3C4 (Capitol) — 321 {Fi Ha de Medici) — 330 "RoMutus ScRemvs, ivith wolf, {Capi(ol) — 324 Roftrata Columna, — — 323 yf Roftrum ai Genoa, . 26 Rotatore, ai Florence, — 410 OAbina, {Card. Albani) Rome, — 314 l5 {Capitol) — 322 {Villa Mattel) ■ 338 Sacrifice, b. r. {Venice) — 60 at Rome, {Majfimi) ■ — 317 Salmacis & Hermapliroditus, {Conte di Fede) 31b Sappho, b. {Card, /llbani) — 313 {Capitol) — 322 Sarcophagus of porphyry, — 217 Another, — 235 "ivith a curious baffo-relievo, — 236 ethers ■with odd ones, — 237 loith chariot-race of Cupids, (Vaiican) 267 with facrifice to Priapus, {Mattel) — 301 ivith boar-hunting, and other fine ones, {Card. Albani) 3 1^ with labours of Flercules, {Savelli) — 317 with man combating lion, — ib. with Cupids, Pan, Faunus, ^c. {Maufol. Augujli) ^^y an extraordinary one at Bolfena, — 374 Satyr, Jkcping, {Barberini) — 290 and goat butting. Cameo, {Florence) — 416 Scipio Africanus, />. (5^rZ'm»i) — 290 {Spada) — 299 {Card. Albani) — 314 Senator, fitting, {Villa Montalta) — 336 Sen£ca, b. {Farnefe) — 285 {Sa?ita Croce) — 298 fitting, {Spada) — 299 in the Bath, {Villa Borghefe) — 3f2 Ssp- A N T I Q^ U E S, Septimius Severus, {Barberini) — _ 290 {Spada) 299 {Giujliniam) — 304 Sibyl, {Capitol) — — 322 at hlorcnce, 404 Si lENv s, (Barberim) — — 291 (Chigi) the heft kno-zvi: to be extant, 296 and yoiotg Bacchus, Izvo of tbem, [Rufpoli) 315 (Fil/a de Medici) 328 {villa Bcrgbefe) — — 341 Slaves, Bad an, {Villa Ludovifia) . 334 Socrates, b. {Ciujliniani) — — 303 {Capitol) 322 Soldier, taking leave of his wife, h.r. {Rufpoli) — 315 Suovetaurilia, b.r. {Santa Crcce) 297 SyLLA, b. {Card. Albani) — — 314 T. TAble, of fiiezv-bread, b. r. {Rome) 348 y/ Terminus, {Conte di Fede) — 316 Tiber, {in Vatican) — — 268 Tiberius, b. .{Capitol) — 322 and Livia, Cameo, {Florence) — 416 Titus, {Giujliniani) — — 304 Toro, {Farnefe) 284 where found, — — 353 Torfo, {in Vatican) — 268 Trajan, b. {Capitol) — — 322 his victory over the Bacians, b.r. — 349 TsiiMALCio, (Pal. Santa Croce) — 298 at.Ptfa, — S^*- A Triton, carrying off a Nymph, {Villa Giufliniani) b. r. 332 Trophies, {Capitol) — — 320 TucciA, the vejial, carrying zsater in a/ieve, {Chigi) 296 TuUy, {in Capitol) — ■— 32^ {Villa Matt ci) b. — 338 V. ), Marcus, b. ai Rome, — 267 Barberinum, at Rome, — 292 with b. r. {Ciujliniani) — — 3^3 ( n/la de Medici ) — 3^7 {Vtl'a Ciujiiniani) — 3i2 fever al mere, 5— — 'b. fuppcrted by the three Graces, {Villa Borgbefc) ? 4 1 7 ^''''' l/^ A N T I Q^ U E S, Vafe ivith b,r. a Bacchanal, {Villa Borghefe) — 342 with birth of Bacchus in b. r. at Cajeta, — 144. of porphyry, — 268 Venus [in Vatican) — 267 Callipygis, (Farnefs) 2 86 cfleep^lBarberini) — 291 ■Cloathed,(Spada) - — a 99 in amethyjl, b. .(Guallieri) — 300 on concha marina. J^etween two Tritons, b. r. (Mattd) 301 as Medici s, cloathcd, [Bracciano) — 310 as coming oiU of the bath, — ib. as coming out of the bath, (Villa de Medici) 331 and Adonis, b.r. {Giufliniani) — 332 as coining out of the bath, i^c. (Villa Lttdovifia) b. r. 333 a fiat tie, (Villa Ludovifta ) 334 afmallone, [Villa Borgbefe) — 342 fame as Medicis, [Card. Albani) — 313 The Venus of Medicis, — 406 two other Venus' s in the fame room, — ib. "Vespasian, Cameo, alto-relievo, [Florence') — 416 Veftal, b. (Farnefe) — 2 85 carrying water in a fieve, [Chigi) — 296 [Giufiiniani) — 302 -Vintage, b. r. at Venice, €0 Mofaic {Te7np. Bacchus) Rome, 235 ViTELLius', ^. (Gitifliniani) 302 Vota, [Gualtieri) 300 [Rom. College) 312 Urn, of oriental alahafler, (Card. Albani) 3 1 3 of porphyry, [Maffimi) 317 Vulcan's Forge, b. r. [Villa Montalta) 337 W. X^Hetter [at Florence) — 410 Will, a pcrfon making one, b. r. [Card. Albani) 3 1 3 W'olf, with Romulus andFiemus, [Capitol) 324 at Sienna, < — ■ — 377 Intaglio, [Florence) 414 Wx-c^hrs, [at Florence) 411 Z. ZE^o, b. [Card. Albani) — 314 ZitiCA&A, [Villa Borghefe) ■ 341 ADDEND A Adr '^g- I HAVE taken notice tliat the being curious in building churches eaft and \vc(t, and placing the principal altar at the eaft end of the church, is not a fupcrftition of Italian growth. I had a view to Italy as it is at prefent ; where (as I have faid) there is no regard had to the eaft, in the fituation of the churches or altars : tho' fome may poftiblv wonder how they came to drop this, when they retained lb many other rites, which were ufed by the antient heathens ; among whom the practice of turning themfelves toward the eaft, ui their adorations, fcems undoubtedly to have been in ufe. V^itruvius, 1. iv. c. 5. lays it down as a rule, to be carefully obferved by the temple-architeds, Arcv fpcSient ad oricntem; " Let the *' altars look toward the eaft :" which Ben("di<flus Averanius, an Italian himfelf, and a learned profcftbr at Pifa, in his dilfer- tations, reprefents more explicitly in thefe words ; Vitrwdus tta prcvcipic ced'tficanda tetnpla, ut orantcs oricntem IpcSlarc cogc- rentiir^. " Vitruvius direds temples to be built in fuch man- " ner, that thofe who came to pay their devotions there, " fliould be forced to look toward the eaft." At the fame time he produces an inftancc of this prafticc being what they were at that time familiarly acquainted with, by citing a paf- fage out of Virgil, in his XII i^^ncid ; where, fpeaking of TEneas and Latinus, ratifying the league they had entered into, he defcribes them as turning their faces towar^' '' '\ - •'- invocation of the deities ; • DitVcrt. ViW:- lo'^' Vol.. ir. .-..■. I: . ADDENDA. Sli ad furgentem comierfi lum'ina folem, Dant fruges manibus faljas, & tempora ferro Stimma not ant pccudum, paterifque alt aria Ubant ^ . Tion plus JEneas Jir't^o Jic enj'e percatur. Then, to the rifjng fun he turns his eyes, •And llrews the beafts, defign'd for facrifice, Witli fah, and meal : with hke officious care He marks their foreheads, and lie clips their hair. Betwixt their horns the purple wine he fheds. With the fame gen'rous juice the flame he feeds, i^^iieas then unfheath'd-.his fliining fword. And thus with pious pray'rs the gods ador'd. Drydek. •Some pam- But I fliall leave this fubjedl to the authors of Alkibla *, pubTiTM-^"^ the Kebla * and the Anatomy of the Kebla*: with this derthoieti- obfervation only, that if the motto of that Anatomy [Tendi- '^es. f,iiis in Latium !J be defigned to inllnuate a cenfure upon the practice of w-orfhipping eaft-ward, as having a tendency to popery, it is not proper : for, whatever fuperftition he may imagine that pradlice to be chargeable with, it can never be called a popifli fuperftition, becaufe (as I have already men- tioned) it is not at all obferved either in Rome, or in anv other part of Italy. Ad Pag. 163, I have fpoken of the Greek c'ly^n thus defcribed [C] as being the old slyij-a., in oppofition to the other, defcribed thus [s] ; and old it is, with refpedl to modern pradice : for, though fince the revival of learning in Europe, the [2.] has been more ufed than the [C] ; yet in infcriptions, and writ- ten books of feveral centuries before, the [C] was ufed almofi: univerfally. But, as the [2] is more in modern ufe, fo I find it is likewife more antient than the [C] ; and that the [Cj was introduced only for its being more readily made than the other, as being ftruck at one ftroke of the pen. At what time it was that the [C] was introduced, and likewife the [C] quadrum, together. ADDEND A. together with otiicr particulars concerning the fovcral ways of dcfcribing the ai'yiJit at (evcral times, may be fccn in father MontCaucon's Pa/^ograpbui Gr<Tfii, 1. ij. p. 153, I have here given part of what he fays upon the fubjcdt, in his own words. s _^c vulgo fcrtbltvr in numifviatilmi & tabitlis marmorei% ante Ccefarum avum, exceptis aliquot exemplis lovicec vetcrii formet. ------- in uumifmatibus item yulii Cerfaris -2. it a fcriptum cernitur. Veriitn quia hanc fortnam condnnc dcpin- gere difficile eft ; bince alia in uummis & iiilcriptioiiibus 'Augufti a-vo efficlis novated dcprehenduutu)\ videlicet L quadrats, ac frequcntius C Latinum, ut uno dutlu exarari poffet. Forma C. in marmoribus Europreis a prl/no Chrifti faculo frequnitijjime uj'ur- pahatur, in Gretcis & orientalibus iij'us r» s ad quartum ufqut ChrijH fecuhan perduBus eft -, ica tanien ut C etiam perftrpe ud- hibcatur : G? utrobique L non infrcqucnter compareat, pnvu au' tern forma 2 a quint fcecuio raro ufurpatur in marmoribus ctiam orienlalihus. In libris vera vetujlicribm, quoiquot unciali, ut "cocant, charoclcre defcripti funt, Q Jim per legit ur, nam iii?,:iru faciliores breviorefque calami ductus fcBati funt. In b. ftgurani Jho jam tempore pcr'uulgatam hac Martitdis. Accipe lunata fcriptum tcftudine figma. Ad Pag. 183. To what I have fiid concerning the pl.icc .j, .^.jmo- ..- tirement, I cannot forbear adding a very lliort dclcription of the villa, as I find it given by Seneca in one of his epirtlo, written from the very place ; together with fomc of the rc- fl.dlions he makes upon the lowlinefs of the villa, and upon the exalted charadler of that great man who had been poilclfo; of it. Jn ipjd Scipionis Africana "oilld jacetis bac tibi fcribOy odo- rniis manibus ejus & area, quam fepukhrum efte tanti •viri fufpicor, animum quideni ejus in citluw, ex quo erat, redl- ijfe perfuadeo miti : non quia niagnos c.wrcitus diixit, (hoi E c 2 cnim ADDENDA. enim^ & Camhyjcs furicfits, cic furore fcllc'iter iifus hdbuit fed'vb. egregiar^i moderationem pietatemque, magh in illo admi- rabikm, cum rdiquit patriam, qiiam cum defendit. ------ Vidi villam jlruSiam lapide quadrat o, murwn circundatum fd- •va, turres quoqiie in propiigjiacuhim v'lllce utrhnque fuhreSlai. Cijlernam adificih ac viridibus fubditam, quce fufficere in ujiim vel exercitus poffet. Balneolum auguflum, tenebricofiim ex confuetudihe antiqiid, non lidcbatur tnajorihus nojlris cal- dum, niji ohfcurum. Magna ergo me wluplai fubit, cmtem- plantsm' meres Scipionis ac fiojlrcs. In hoc aitgulo ilk Car- thagikis /lorror, ciii Roma debet, quod taut urn femel cafta e/i, abluebat corpus laboribus rujiicis fefum : exerccbat cniiii cpere fe^ terramque fut mos fait prifcisj ipfe fubigebat. Sub he tile tcSlo tarn fordido /let it, hoc ilium pavimentum tarn vile fiijiinuit. At 7iunc quis eji, qui fic lavari fujlineat ? Pau- per Jibi videtur ac fordidus, nift. parietes tnagnis & pretiofis crhthus refulferunt : nifi Alexandrina marmora Numidiofa cruf- tis dijUndia font. ^--~--~-Eo deliciarum pervenimus ut 7nji gemmas calcare Jiolimus. In hoc balneo Scipionis mini- ma J'urjt, rima magis quam feneftro', jnuro lapide o exfeSla, ut line injuria i7nmimenti, lumen admitterent. At nunc blattaria vocant balnea, fi qua non ita apt at a funt, ut totius diei folem fenejiris afnpli/Jimis recipiant ;-------- ^lanta nunc aliqui rufticitatis damnant ScipioneWy ------ O hominem calamilofum ! nejciit vivcre I Seneca, ep. 86. " I write this to you in the very villa of Scipio Africaiiu?, " whither I am now retired ^ having paid my devotion to his " manes, and to the tomb, wherein I fuppofe fo great a man " to have been buried. His foul, I am perfuaded, is returned *' to heaven, from whence it came ; not becaufe he com- •' manded powerful armies (Cambyfes, a madman, fuccefsful " in hi5 madnefs, did the fame) ; but, for his uncommon *' moderation and piety, which in him became more admira- *• ble, when he left his country, than when he was defending "it. " I viewed the villa, built of plain fquared flones ; ** the wall which encompaflTes the grove ; and the low " towers which are built on each fide for the defence of " the villa : a ciftern, below the buildings and greens, " that A D D E N D A. " that might Uiflkc even for tlic ufc of an army. A batli " little and narrow, and glooiny, after the antienl manner. •' Our anctflors did not think a bath warm, if it were not " dufky. Hence, therefore, a vafl plcafurc pcni-n'es me, •• while I ccntemplalc S^ipio's mind, and way of life, and " that which prevails now. In this corner did the terror of " Carthage, he to whom Rome owes its having been taken •' but ontc, wafti his body, fatigued with rural labours: for " he txcrcifcd himfelf with working ; and faccording to the " cuflom of the anticnts) tilled his ground himfelf. Under " this fo fordid a roof did he fland ; on this fo mean a pavc- " ment did he tread. But, who is he that would bear to " bathe fo now ? A man thinks himfelf poor and mean, un- " lefs the walls fliine with circular pannels, large and coftly ; '• unlefs there be marbles of Alexandria, inlaid with thofe of " Numidia. .----. -We are brought to fuch a pitch of " delicacy now, that we cannot tread but upon precious ftones. ■' In this bath of Scipio's are exceeding fmall chinks, rather " than windows, fo cut in the Hone wall, as to admit the ' light, without hurting the building. But now they call the " baths /)/atiiiria''^', if they arc not fo fitted with fpacious win-* " dows as to admit the fun all the day long. ------ ^' " Of what a coarfe and ruftick tallc do they now-a-days ■' efteem Scipio to have been !------ Alas, poor man ! " he knew not what it was to live !" Ad Pag. 293. To the inKription I have there given, cont.rming the tri- umphal titles of Claudius Calar, and fctting forth with how much eafe, and how, without any lofs, he had made the kings of Britain fubjc(ft to him ; it will not be amifs to add another, which in fubftance is the fame with the above- mentioned. This I am now going to add is given by Alex- ander Donatus, and is to be (een in Grav. Tbefiiur. vol. III. p. 752. He tells us, it was dug up in the year 1641, near an arch, which was commonly called Arco di Portogallo, in the Via Flaminia, which has fince been taken aw.iy. It was only a iragment [he calls it, Ingens martr.oris Jmfum, cum rnfefled iih moUiii ADDENDA. fnumphoUbiis thitJh hnper atari sCuuidii] one fide of it bcmg loilr, and the beginning of all the lines wanting ; but he has r-ellored them to w hat he efleems them to have been at firll, [gcmmi<^ refiituimiis antiquitatiP\ The antique part is in .the hvrger let- ter, the modern reparation in the fmaller. Ti. CLAuDIO. DRVSI. F. CAESARI avgVSTO. GERMANICO poNTiFicI. MAXIMO. TRIE. POT. IX. COS. V. imPERATORI. XVI. P. P. • sENATvs. POPULVSQ.VE. ROMANVS. QVOD reg'es. britANNIAE. PERDVELES. SINE VLLA. iactvRA. CELERITER. CEPERIT CENTEsQx^E. eXTREMARUM. ORCHADVM PRIMUS. iNDiciO. FACTO. R. IMPERIO. ADIECERIT. This fragment, Donatus fays, is kept in the Barberini palace ; but I did not fee it : tho' it was there I obferved the infcription I before gave, as I have mentioned at the page here referred to. The word [FACTO] in the laft line of the fragment, Vi^■^y help to explain its preceding one [IN- DICIO] which is likewife in the other infcription, but with- out the addition of [FACTO] : as they are put together, they feem to imply a notification to the Britons, by fome fcsciales, or heralds, of the approach of Claudius, and a demand of their fubmiflion to him ; which was accordingly made, upon his perfonal appearance among them, without any blood ihed, or blow ftruck ; as appears by what Suetonius fays of this expedition, Sine ullo frielio aut fatigidfie, inter paucijjimos dies, parte injulce in deditionem receptd, Jhcto qiiam profeSiiis erat metife, Romam rediit, triumphavitque viaximo apparatu. Ad Pag. 309. A friend of mind, reading this paflage of the dog barking at the figures in ftone of a bull and a cow, communicated to me the tranflation of fome Greek epigrams, in the An- thohgia, upon a cow cad in brafs by Myro, a celebrated 3 Corin- ADDENDA. Corinthian artift : the variety of incidents deviled by the /e- veral epigrammatids, to let forth, in a natural manner, the hvelinefs of the reprefcntation, by imagining a deception, not only of calves, but of the hcrdfmen, and even of the artift himfclf likewifc, made me think feveral of them very appofite to this palfage : and the tranflations appeared to me, and to fome others, fo elegant and entertaining, that I thought it would not be difagreeable to the reader if I infcrted tliem here. a' t'-.'/j"- ust^oif tit s>'i9M)ce yi.\<t.. Why dofl: thou thump my fides, dear calf? why low ^ Art on this udder could not milk beflow. Sec ! by thy Cow that calf expiring lie, Myro, expc(fling brafs lliould milk fupply. This heifer (hark !) will low : if flie does not. The ftupid brafs, not Myro, is in fault. liji/xoAS TOf tiyihity vi'fpa viu.i' i-u) to Mjp«;icf Swain, at a diftance feed thy herd, left thou Take with thee Myro's, for a living cow. Leave pelting, herdfmen, put your ftoncs away I'm Myro's ftatue of a cow, no flray. ADDENDA. O'u ya^ y.ai 7iyj'» 19 to/'' ISaxiv 'i'/J-iv- Leave ftriking ; whither would'ft thou have me gOy Neatherd ? That pow'r too art could not beftovv. A'Jrof epsT TtLyjt tb'to Mjpsi^'f Ivx. iTrKctira, TtivTHif Myro, himfelf deceiv'd, begins to fvvcar, I made the flatue of this cow, not her. Tlfh •4-''X«r ^AKiiiv, 'iipQd.<ri 7r»yvvy.iv@^- Phy, Myro, phy, to let the metal cool. And fix, before you had put in the foul ! Fr' i?OJ TttJ^' IfJulX'^'l" ?U^'f '^ TOTVIA TiXVt^ ' 'A//.^i)Tsp*/f J'i Mjpav Tirol' oTTAtrvi y'ifa.;, AspX.Of-il'OK f^5r ya.f, ipClTiOf KfdLTOi hfTTCLffi TiXVlt ' 'Ai/7ap l<petTT0/JL6Co/fj 11 (puViJ 4ri ipxjTK. Nature and Skill here {Irove to fliew their worth Myro has equal honour done to both. Confult your eyes. Nature gives place to Skill j But Nature's nature, when you come to feel. -f- iwa ^^ University of California dn!°uV/"!''.^ REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 405 Hllgard Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90024-1388 Return this material to the library ^^^^rornjwhlch it was borrowed. 7^^ ■ IVEWABLE - f^^cEim 'i!!!iH(«'Jii D 000 026 951 4