i lilill WSaaSSSSiSmmSKKmEi mSUS&ili&siiSBSSoSSlSSmm w&SBSS3slfflKtS&Bi$xmK '*< ii< i vSiMBi ' ' m iRfflnHUufiCM ^I^^HHRiHIBI99Hlfr THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESENTED BY PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID THE HUNTING GROUNDS OF THE OLD WORLD. "Fiom a. Pkotograpr THE HUNTING GROUNDS OF THE OLD WORLD. * BY "THE OLD SHEKARRY," P^ H. A. L. II FIRST SERIES. " There is a pleasure in the pathless woods." . SECOND EDITION. LONDON: SAUNDERS, OTLEY, & CO., 50, CONDUIT STREET, HANOVER SQUARE. i860. 1OVDOM * FRIKTKD BT WILLIAM CLOWES AND BONS, STAMFORD STREET, AND CHAHING CROSS. PREFACE. THE following pages, descriptive of different incidents in a Hunter's life, are selections from the journal of a wanderer over many lands, which, having excited a certain degree of interest amongst a class who have themselves participated in similar scenes, the Author has laid before the Public ; in the hope that some of his comrades, many of whom are " mighty hunters," and abler with the pen than himself, will follow his example, and disseminate the knowledge they have acquired by experience during their sojourn in " the path- less woods," as their accounts cannot fail to be of intense interest to their brother sportsmen, and a great assistance to the uninitiated who may wish to follow in their footsteps. CONTENTS, PART I. INDIA. Section 1. The Deccan. CHAPTER I. HYDRABAD. BTY FIRST DAY'S DEER-STALKING. Leave of absence obtained. My Mentor. Departure. Abdulla-ben- Ali, the Killadar. A Banian. The hill-fort of Bhoonghir. Old cannon. Native hospitality. Visions of deer. The start. Plenty of "slots," but no deer. The sambur described. His habits. A deer-stalker's qualifications. Hints. The trail. Walter's com- panion. Tracking. The sambur's instinct. The bark of a buck- elk. The game in view. An anxious moment. My first stag. Two harts die, a third hard hit. The chase. Ponto brings him to bay. A good shot. Re turn to camp .. Page 1 CHAPTER II. HOG-HUNTING IN THE DECCAN. The fortress of Golconda. The Tombs of the Kings, The gardens. Persian inscriptions. The gathering. Plan of operations. Remini- scences of the past. The start. The rendezvous. My nag " Lai Babba." A moment of suspense. The find. We 're away. The chase. The first blood. A purl. The advantages of being on good terms with one's nag. The tug of war. Exciting moments. The struggle for the spear. It is won. The charge. Mischief ensues. The death of the boar. The wounded hog-hunter. The death of an old friend. The try sting- tree.- The trophies. The return to can- tonment 23 vi Contents. CHAPTER III. MULKAPOOB. Our camp. Mulkapoor. The Patel. Good news of shekar. W 's family. Scheme for a Nautch. The Begum. Her love of good liquor. The prescription. Chineah and my Shekar-gang. The Doctor's ruse. News of a man-eater. Departure of the gang Page 44 CHAPTER IV. THE MAN-EATER'S LAIB. The start. The man-eater's depredations. His habits described. His last victim. His trail. We are on his track. More game. The scent becomes warm. The lair. The remains of many victims dis- covered. The plan for the morrow. A resolution. W 's idea of shekar. We arrive in camp. The Pill's garden. The bath. Dinner. The Doctor's visit to the Begum. Effect of his medicine. My future husband. The nautch arranged . . . . . . . . 59 CHAPTER V. A BATTUE, Preliminary arrangements for the beat. The Doctor's great appearance. His famous feat. W falls in with tigers. Fatal accident. The death of a tiger. The game warms. The battue. Another tiger dies. The bag of the day. The Doctor again. The ceremonies of my gang 77 CHAPTER VI. THE GANG. The Begum's invitation accepted. My Shekar-gang. Googooloo's history and the discovery of the Yanadi caste. Googooloo's gifts. Insinuations 91 CHAPTER VII. THE NAUTCH. The Nantch : its fascinations. Indian dancing-girls. Oriental eyes. Their dress and jewels. Soaping the Begum. Indian jugglers and their tricks. The celebrated mango-tree. The sacrifice to Bowanee. Explanation. The Doctor's wonder 109 Contents. . vii CHAPTER VIII. THE DEATH OF THE MAN-EATER. News of the man-eater again. We are once more on his trail. The scent lost. Googooloo gives tongue. It warms. My plan. Pre- paration. Execution. A ticklish moment. Death of the man- eater. Ceremonies of the Shekarries Page 129 Section 2. Southern India. CHAPTER IX. TRICHINOPOLY. Trichinopoly. The evil influence of caste in India.' The return of Chineah, and our prospects of sport. My shooting-cart and battery described. Preparations for a start .. 141 CHAPTER X. THE SHEVEEOYS. Departure of the gang. Our start. The journey. Salem. The Shaveroy Hills, and our reception. Anglo-Indian hospitality. Claret cup. News of bison and bears. Googooloo on trail. We follow. A bull-bison lost. The news of bears confirmed. Their habits described 157 CHAPTER XI. BEAR-HUNTING. We start for the Bear Hill. The reconnaissance. Bears afoot. Their strongholds invested. A foraging party surprised. Two bears die. Three more afoot. Another couple yield their spoils. Desperate encounter with an enraged vixen, who almost proved a Tartar. " The Old Shekarry " in a fix for a time, but wins the game at last. The bag of the day. The return 170 viii Contents. CHAPTER BOWANI. Sankerrydroog. An adventure with hyenas. Bowani. Alligator- fishing. We start for Andior. " Gooty," my shooting pony : his pedi- gree and achievements. Small-game shooting. Antelope-stalking. Andior. The monkeys and the Brahmins. Murrel-fishing Page 179 CHAPTER XIII. THE COMBEI JUNGLE. Early rising. " Tiger's milk." A sloth-bear started. Combei. Our encampment. A salt-lick. Great bag of deer by night. Ding- ding. A strange rencontre whilst peafowl-stalking. Leg-bail. The death of the tiger. B - 's sport. A glorious chase. The bull- nilghau. The bag. A black panther. Strange mode of catching deer. Return to Bowani. Finale . 193 Section 3. The Mountain Ranges. CHAPTER XIV. THE NEILGHERRIES. Index. Pleasing recollections. The deep forest described. The plea- sures and excitement of a hunter's life. The requisite qualifications. The Neilgherries and their productions. Variety of game. Oota- camund. Englishmen and their love of Sport. Dawson's Hotel. Burnside Cottage. Mala-mund. The Todas : their women, habita- tions, and strange customs. Kews of elk. The start : preliminaries. The drive. Game afoot. A capital shot. Three deer bite the dust, and Bruin yields up his spoils. A stag at bay. The return. Convivial gathering. The Major's story 208 CHAPTER XV. THE NEILGHEEBIES, Continued. A NIGHT AFFAIR. News of a tiger. His last depredation. The ambuscade. Lying in wait. A night attack. Exciting moments. The spoiler vanquished. The return. News of ibex, and an expedition to the Koondah range. Ibex-stalking. B 's wonderful shooting. The game nearly lost. The ibex described. Return to Ooty 228 Contents. ix CHAPTER XVI. ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN THE FOREST ABOUND THE BASE OP THE NEILGHERRIES. The elephant-hunter's qualifications, " Mighty Hunters." The start. The Coonoor Pass. The trail. Signs of a tusker. The herd. A bull-elephant dies. A cow and calf fall. The bivouac .. Page 248 CHAPTER XVII. ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN THE ANNAMULLAY FOREST. Coimbatore. News of elephants. A Poojah to propitiate the Hindoo deities meets with no satisfactory results. A court-martial held on the recusant Sawmy. Sentence and execution. The ghost of the injured Sawmy appears to the Gooroo. His threat. The laying of the spirit. Eesult obtained. The start. M 's hut at Tunna- cuddoo. His hospitality. A bison wounded. Taketty. News of a herd of elephants.-^ Our bivouac. A night alarm. Elephants astir. A bull-elephant yields up his spoils. An immense snake caught. We follow up the spoor of the herd. Beautiful forest scenery. Tracking by torchlight. Difficulties surmounted. AVe swim a nullah. The trail. The herd in view. A bull-elephant anchored. A second tusker wounded. A charge. A predicament. A lucky shot decides the day. The result of a pat from an ele- phant .. , 261 CHAPTER XVIII. THE GREAT ANNAMULLAY FOREST. TIGER-HUNTING. Our plan of operations. The hunting-grounds. Preparations. The journey. Jungle travelling. Our bivouac. A lonely glen. Signs of game. The ambuscade. Forest signs and jungle melody. Googooloo gives tongue. The spoiler spoiled. An unexpected rencontre. A wounded tigress. Her retreat stormed. Fatal acci- dent. Retribution. The Shekarry's grave 293 CHAPTER XIX. THE GREAT ANNAMULLAY FOREST, Continued. BISON-HUNTING. Our hut. A gigantic carp. Fish-shooting. His dimensions. Dis- covery of a cave ; an exploring party. The tiger's spoils. His C Contents. dimensions. ** Away with melancholy." Chineah's reconnaissance and bag. Our open council. Jungle harmony. Our proceedings and plan for the morrow. The turn-out. The start. A hard fag. A fresh trail of bison struck. Googooloo has the ear of a hare. Two buck-elk and a hind bite the dust. We follow up the bison's trail. Heavy work. Land-leeches. The find. A heavy bag and a good day's work. The gigantic dimensions of the patriarch of the herd. The game bushed. Again en route. A teak-forest. The head of the fall. Magnificent views. Our bivouac .. .. Page 319 CHAPTER XX, THE GEEAT ANNAMULLAY FOEEST, Continued. A EOGUE ELEPHANT. Naga's party join us. News of a rogue elephant. Chineah despatched for the bison's spoils. B 's luck. The start. We strike a fresh trail. Fall in with the tusker. Our proceedings. B 's excel- lent shot. The ivories. A discussion on " rogues." The cutting- out of the tusks. Return to the low country. Arrival of our guests. Dinner. B 's adventure of a "griffin." The lion and tiger compared. My first lion. We again ascend the ghaut. Good cheer. Consultation. Elephant-spoors. The trail followed up. K 's rashness. An escape. A small tusker falls. Return to the hut. B 's bag. A storm. Return to cantonment ., 343 PART II. CIRCASSIA. CHAPTER XXI. Omer Pacha.- My folio wers. Bashi-Bazouks. Houssain the Arnotit. Ahmed the Koord. AH the Nubian. Mahomed the Arab. Sied Cassim the Dervish. Abdulla the guide. Captain Dymock's grave. Godova. Wild-fowl. A heavy bag. The climate of Circassia. The. inhabitants : their manners, customs, and dress. Circassian women. The Illori chieftain. The "Faithful" and the " forbidden indulgence." Omer Pacha, a humbug. His reputation amongst the Turkish officers. His wound accounted for. His acquisitiveness and plunder. A fearful chase by wolves. The Turkish colonel's ad- vice. Sulleiman Pacha. His purchase. Revolt of the Hareem. The catastrophe and finale . 3G6 Contents. xi CHAPTER XXII. CIRCASSIA continued. Circassian scenery. A false alarm. The Bey's Konak. Rifles and revolvers. Circassian cuisine. A goose cooked a la Mrs. Harris. Uninvited company. News of a bear. A night prowler. A hunts- man's toilet. The route through the ravines. The lair. The Bey's dogs give tongue. An enormous bear wounded. A man mauled. The Bruin bites the^ dust. The bivouac. Horses stolen. Mussul- man apathy. The pursuit. The trail. The plunderers surprised and taken. Their punishment Page 389 CHAPTER XXIII. CIRCASSIA continued. On the sale of Circassian females, and extenuating circumstances. Their character. An exploring trip premeditated. The start. A Russian fort. Bustard-shooting. Forest scenery. Difficulties en route. Trout-fishing. Mosquitoes. A lovely valley. Wild-cattle hunt. An awkward predicament. A bull and cow slain. Mode of preserving the flesh. More game afoot. The ascent of the first range. Mountain scenery. Mount El-Bruz in the distance. Diffi- cult travelling. A bear started. A long shot. Strange feelings. A frightful chasm, and exciting moment. Journey along the ridge. The descent. Wolves. A Circassian hamlet. Hospitality. A noble race. A Durbar, and the result of our consultation . . 407 CHAPTER XXIV. CIRCASSIA, continued. THE ASCENT OP EL-BRUZ. Forest scenery. The first halt. A glacier. A beautiful panorama. Sunrise. A lammergeier slain. Glacier travelling. Eternal snow. Avalanches. The lower summit attained. Our exultation. A description of the higher summit. The impossibility of reaching it. Grand scenery. Intense glare. The descent commenced. A sudden death. Kuchuc's last resting-place. Fatiguing fag. The bivouac in the pine-forest. An ibex killed. Return. Finale 427 xii Contents. PART III. ALGERIA. CHAPTEK XXV. A SPORTING RECONNAISSANCE IN ALGERIA. The origin of the Expedition. The start. Paris. Difficulty about the importation of gunpowder. A ruse. Marseilles. The voyage. Stora. Bone. French hospitality. Lake Fedzara. Ain-Mokra. Convivial evening. Songs. The trail of a lion. Small-game shoot- ing. Lions afoot. Night-watching. Uncomfortable position. The lion again. His currishness. ~- Preparations for a trip inland. Philippeville. Koman remains. The kindness of the French autho- rities. Our journey. A strange Jehu. Constantine. The game of Algeria Page 444 PART IY. PRACTICAL HINTS ON FIREARMS AND THEIR USE. CHAPTER XXVI. The advantage of breech-loading guns and rifles. The different systems. Advice on purchasing fire-arms. The theory of rifle practice. Aiming, position, judging distance, and practical hints on shooting. On the colour of sportsmen's dress Table, Experiments with targets 487 THE HUNTING GROUNDS OP THE OLD WORLD. PAET L-INDIA, Section 1. Tlie Deccan. CHAPTER I. HYDRABAD. MY FIRST DAY'S DEER STALKING. Leave of absence obtained. My Mentor. Departure. Ab- dulla-ben-Ali, the Killadar. A Banian. The hill-fort of Bhoonghir. Old cannon. Native hospitality. Visions of deer. The start Plenty of " slots " but no deer. The Sambur described. His habits. A deer-stalker's qualifica- tions. Hints. The trail. Walter's companion. Tracking. The sambur's instinct. The bark of a buck elk. The game in view. An anxious moment. My first stag. Two harts die, a third hard hit. The chase. Ponto brings him to bay. A good shot. Return to camp. IN the year 184 I was a jolly sub. in the old th regiment, then forming part of the Hy- drabad subsidiary force, and having got over the early troubles of my griffinage (i. e., the goose 2 The Hunting Grounds step, adjutant's drill, &c.) in a weak moment after dinner I obtained three days' division leave from my colonel (a regular Tartar) who during the' temporary absence of General A n, was in command of the garrison, in order to accom- pany my great chum, Walter M., in a sporting expedition to the Jaghir of the Killadar 1 of the hill- fort of Bhoonghir, which was about twenty miles from our cantonments. Walter, who commanded the company to which I was attached, had been my Mentor in all duty matters from the day I first joined the regiment, and he now undertook to initiate me in the mys- teries of " Shekar," in all its branches, a task which he of all others was well qualified to per- form, being well known as the most fearless hunter and unerring shot in a country pre-eminent for the excellence of its sportsmen. Years have rolled since poor Walter went to "that bourne from whence no traveller returns;" and the kindest heart that ever warmed human bosom has ceased to beat, for my friend sleeps his last under the shade of a giant forest tree, and his name is seldom called to mind, save when, at the close of day, his old comrades assemble round the social board and speak of " moving incidents by flood and field ;" of hair-breadth " scapes," of mighty feats and daring deeds, and an old hand 1 Killadar, the governor of a fort. of the Old World. 3 pointing to some grim trophy of the chase hanging in the mess-room, will tell how the daring spirit that is gone plunged in some angry torrent, "and did buffet it with lusty sinews" after his quarry, bearded the tiger in his lair, and slew him single-handed, or saved a comrade from inevitable death by the fatal accuracy of his deadly aim. Mais revenons ci nos moutons. We left canton- ment at the first indication of dawn, and accom- panied by all our people and baggage, which was furthermore escorted by a corporal and three sepoys, as the country was hardly deemed safe, on account of predatory bands of Rohillas and Puthans, we proceeded along the bank or embank- ment of the Hussain Sauger Tallow, an artificial lake which was upwards of thirty miles in circum- ference in the rainy season, and passing by the princely palace of the Resident of Hydrabad, we arrived at the bungalow of Captain M , the As- sistant resident, with whom we breakfasted ; and having rested a few hours, until the heat of the day was passed, we again set out, leaving the city of Hydrabad behind, crossing the Moosa river by a ford, and after a ride of three hours arrived at Shajehanpoor, where we remained for the night, and from which place the lofty hill-fort of Blioon ghir was pointed out to us, looming high above the surrounding hills. B2 4 The Hunting Grounds At daybreak the next morning we were again in the saddle, and after a pleasant ride through low jungle arrived at an immense banian tree, where we found Abdulla-ben Ali, the Killadar, and his son, waiting for us with " Saindee " (the sap of the date palm, which, when fresh, is a delightful beverage) and trays of fruits and sweetmeats of different kinds. He offered us accommodation, for ourselves and followers, in the fort, but we preferred encamping under this magnificent banian tree, which in itself was quite a grove, being of amazing size. Con- trary to most other vegetable productions, this tree seems to be exempted from decay ; for every branch from the main body throws out its own roots, at first in small tender fibres several yards from the ground, which continually grow thicker, until by a gradual descent they reach its surface, where striking in they take root, and receiving nourishment from the earth, increase to large trunks, which themselves become parent trees, shooting forth other branches; thus continuing in a state of progression, independent of the first parent of them all. A banian tree, with its many trunks, forms the most beautiful walks, vistas, and cool recesses that can be imagined, for the leaves are large, soft, and of a lively green, and the grateful shade it affords is infinitely preferable of the Old World. 5 to that of any building. The fruit is a small fig, which is of a bright scarlet colour when ripe, affording sustenance to monkeys and birds of various kinds, which dwell among the branches. We killed several dozen green pigeons, besides others of different kinds, the morning of our arrival, but the next day they came just as nume- rous as ever. Having seen that our tents were properly pitched and our horses firmly picketed, we accom- panied the Killadar to his quarters in the fort, the ascent of which is very steep, and almost imprac- ticable for horses, and he took us round the forti- fications, which were tolerably strong for a native fort, consisting, as usual, of a loop-holed wall, with square bastions of masonry, and a kind of fausse brae, with a line of interior defences, which formed the citadel. He appeared to think the place impregnable, and neither Walter nor myself cared to undeceive him, although we both made up our minds that it would take our troops some- thing less than an hour to get into it. He showed us some curious old native guns, one of which was of very large calibre, being formed of bars of iron welded together and fastened with large iron hoops, and the shot, which were of stone, we found to be rather heavier than we could lift. 6 The Hunting Grounds After our inspection we adjourned to the Killa- dar's house, which appeared to have been formerly the gateway of an old Hindoo temple, but all the images had been destroyed and replaced by stone slabs bearing Persian inscriptions. We were shown into the " dewan-khana," or guest-room, where a very nice dinner, in the native style, was served, and our host conversed with us whilst we partook of his hospitality, and appeared much amused at my awkward attempts to convey the food to my mouth with rny fingers, a feat which I was not then accustomed to perform, although it is the ordinary mode of eating among all classes and castes in India. I had my turn when he came to visit us, afterwards, and attempted to eat with a knife and fork for the first time. After we had dined, sherbet and sweetmeats were handed round, with hubble-bubbles and hookahs (water-pipes), and the Killadar informed us that his shekarries 1 had not returned from the jungles, whither he had sent them to try and find out the whereabouts of a large tiger, who had been committing a good deal of depredation among the herds in the low country ; but that if we would like a day's sambur 2 shooting, he would accompany us on the morrow, and show us a place where we should be nearly certain to find. 1 Slickarries, hunters. - Sambur, elk (Rusa Aristoteles}. of the Old World. 1 Of course we were agreeable, and after expend- ing a good deal of breath in interchanging compli- ments, &c., we took our leave and returned to our tents, the Killadar having promised to be with us before day-break with masaltjies or torch-bearers, as it was some short distance to the jungle where we were to hunt, and early dawn was the best time to catch the deer feeding. I had never killed a deer, or, indeed, any other large game (except a hyena, that ventured into my compound, or garden, one night, after my dogs, and which I managed to knock over with a charge of buck shot), and consequently I was in too excited a state to rest much during the night, for visions of deer came and vanished amidst broken slumbers, and I awoke dreaming that after a long and weary chase over mountains, and across ravines, I came upon a monstrous stag, put up my rifle and pulled, but all in vain it would riot go off. I had only just dropped into a refreshing sleep, when I was awakened by Walter beating the " British Grenadiers," with his hair brush on a huge brass basin, which was formed out of one of the gongs taken from the Pagoda at Rangoon. I sprung from my bed as if the deer were already before ine, and donning my toggery, which was of mole- skin of most approved colour and cut, buckled 8 The Hunting Grounds on my spurs and examined my rifles, whilst my servant poured out some hot coffee, flavoured with but just a " threatening of cognac," and in a few minutes we were joined by the Killadar, his son, and three or four " juwans" (young men in atten- dance), and, mounting our horses, we wound round the scarped side of the hill-fort, and entered a long narrow defile between two hills, by a narrow path running along the banks of a moun- tain stream then nearly dry. After a tedious ride of about two hours' dura- tion, by torchlight, the gray dawn broke over the mountain tops, and a gentle breeze arose, just moving with its refreshing breath the leaves of the loftier trees ; now and then a hare or a covey of partridges sprang up on either side, and van- ished amid the gloom of the surrounding thickets, alarmed at the noise made by the feet of our horses over the rocky path. At last the ravine opened into a beautiful glen, in which there were small patches of cultivation, and here the Killadar begged us to dismount and keep quiet, as the dun tenants of the waste were in the habit of quitting the dense jungle during the night, and browsing upon the young cholum (Indian corn) in the early morning. He sent two of his people that knew the ground, to reconnoitre, who, after a few minutes, came of the Old World. 9 back with the information that they had seen a sounder of hog, but that there were no sambur on the ground, although there were several places covered over with fresh slots (the marks of a deer's tread), showing that they had been there during the night. The Kiiladar gave vent to his disappointment by a volley of strange oaths, and was for returning home, but Walter begged him to remain and enjoy a quiet smoke under the shade of a tree, whilst we followed up tracks and attempted to stalk them. This he was delighted to do, as he did not like the thoughts of following up the game through the thick jungle, being a stout, thick-set, phlegmatic individual, hardly fit for such work. Walter divested himself of his extraneous cloth- ing, substituting a pair of thin elk-skin shoes for his ordinary riding-boots, and I followed his example ; then unloosening the girths of our sad- dles, w r e gave strict injunctions to our people to remain quiet, and sallied into the glen, accompa- nied by one of the men who had seen the fresh slots. I was so impatient to get on the trail, and plunge at once, as it were, in medias res, that I have omitted to describe the sambur, and also to point out the properties requisite for a deer- stalker. This species of deer, which is to be met with in almost all the large jungles throughout India, is 10 The Hunting Grounds considerably larger than the Scotch red deer, and cannot be mistaken for the same species. The horns are rather upright, having two short brow antlers only, and at three years old two points at the extremities of each beam ; the eyes are large and very prominent; the ears rounded; the tail longer, and the arm more muscular than our red stags. The hair immediately next to the jaw is longer than any other part of the neck, and when he is alarmed or excited it stands on end, and forms a kind of ruff, sometimes called the mane. The colour varies slightly, but is usually of very dark slate, mingled with gray, nearly black about the face and points, and a light buff between the haunches and underneath. The female is much smaller than the male, and is of a lighter colour. The horns vary in size, according to the age of the animal, and are cast annually, not, however, always at the same time, for one generally drops a day or two after the other. The new horns attain their full growth in about three months, appearing about a week after the old ones are shed, and are covered with a thick, leaden-coloured skin, called the velvet, which, after a time, begins to fall off. At this period the horns are very sensitive, and the stags avoid bringing them into collision with any substance. The period of gestation in the hinds is eight of the Old World. 11 months. She drops the fawn in some secluded and shady spot, making it lay down by pressing her nose and forehead against it, after which it will never stir until she comes again, for she leaves it until the close of day, remaining a short distance to windward, so as to be at hand in case it should be found out by foxes or jackals. The natives say, and I believe with some truth, that if you find a young fawn that has never fol- lowed its dam, take it up and breathe in its nostrils, allowing it to suck your fingers for a few moments, that it will follow you for miles, becoming instantly tame ; but if it has once followed its dam, for ever so small a time before you found it, it will never follow a human being. The female does not cohabit with the male until three years old, and never has more than one fawn at a time. During the rutting season, which period lasts about a week, the harts are extremely vicious, and may be heard roaring all over the forests, calling and answering each other. When they meet they engage in savage conflicts, rearing themselves on their hind legs, sparring with their fore-feet, and butting each other with their antlers, until one feels himself worsted, and leaves the herd ; the hinds, who generally watch the engage- ment with the utmost nonchalance, bestowing their favours on the conqueror. 1 2 The Hunting Grounds There is no animal more shy or solitary by nature than the sambur. He takes alarm from every living thing in the forest; the slightest sound, be it only the fall of a leaf or the scratching of a jungle fowl, will scare and set him off in a mo- ment, Except in certain embarrassed situations, they always run up wind, their great security lying in their extreme keenness of scent, for they can smell a taint in the air at an almost incredible distance. When a hart is disabled or run down by dogs, and he feels that he cannot escape by speed, he will choose the best position he can, and defend himself to the last extremity with his antlers. Powerful dogs may pull down a full-grown stag when running and breathless, but not a cold hart (one that has not been wounded) when he stands at bay, for he takes such a sweep with his antlers that he could exterminate a whole pack, should they attack in front only. The sambur, like many other animals, seems to foresee every change of weather, for they leave the hills and descend into the plains whenever any rough weather is about to take place. The deer-stalker should not only be able to run like an antelope, but he should possess the bottom of an Arab horse, to enable him to keep the game in view; he should be able to creep like a leopard. of the Old World. 13 arid to run with his back bent almost double, and at a pinch to wriggle himself along the ground, venire ci terre, like an eel. He should be able to wade or swim torrents, to keep his footing on slip- pery water-worn stones, remembering, if he does fall, to keep his rifle dry, whatever becomes of his wretched carcass. He should never go rashly to work, keeping always cool, wary, and steady, never allowing any untoward circum- stances to interfere with his equanimity and self- possession. Before commencing operations, he should care- fully survey his line of route, marking any cover that inequalities in the ground, or bushes, rocks, &c., might give. I need not add, that temperance and moderation go a long way to keep the hand in and the nerves steady. When I first began deer- stalking, my Mentor endeavoure 1 to instil the fol- lowing general rules in my mind, and several years subsequent experience has proved .to me that his theory is correct. Be on your ground betimes in the morning ; consult the clouds, and keep well to the leeward, even if you have to make a circuit of miles ; be silent as the grave; when you step on stones or dry leaves, fyc., tread as lightly as a ghost ; keep under cover; exercise extreme judgment in approaching your game, which is a happy mixture of wary caution combined wit/i prompt decision find boldness of execu- 14 The Hunting Grounds tion. Memo. All this is useless, if you do not use straight powder. When we arrived at the cultivated ground in the bed of the glen, we found marks showing that a large herd of sambur had been very lately feed- ing on the young shoots of the Indian corn, for the slots were quite fresh, and Walter pointed me out the difference between the tread of the harts to that of the hinds, the former being much larger and broad, and round at the point, whereas the latter is long and narrow. One impression, which was very deeply indented in the ground, measured three inches and a half at the heel, and the hind feet appeared to have been brought up to the same mark as that made by the fore, on which account Walter concluded the slot to belong to a heavy hart, who was most likely the leader of the herd; so we agreed to follow it up. We were accompanied by a curious nondescript kind of dog, a cross between an English foxhound and a Bringarry greyhound, which had its ears and tail cropped close to the roots, to enable it to get through the jungle. He was Walter's inse- parable companion, and the most highly edu- cated dog I ever saw ; like his master, being per- fectly au fait at every kind of sport. In the jungle he never left his master's heel except when set by of the Old World. 15 him on trail. On scent, no jungle, however thick, or rocks, however steep, could check his course; no stream, however rapid, would discourage him; he would enter without splashing, cross and double about until he recovered the scent and came up with his quarry, which he would keep at bay until his master came. He was also first-rate after small game as a retriever, and was very successful in putting up florakin (or the lesser bustard), which bird generally makes a practice of running when disturbed. Walter was an adept at tracking, and under his guidance we had no difficulty in following up the trail, the slots not being more than an hour old. I remember being much struck with the extraordi- nary facility he had in discerning the trail over the most difficult ground ; the slightest mark, an up- turned stone, a bruised leaf, or a bent twig, being sufficient to indicate the route pursued by the game with the greatest certainty. The gift of tracking or following up spoor, appears to be innate, or a kind of instinct, in the red men of the " Far West," and to certain jungle tribes of Hindostan; but it takes careful study, great observation, and long experience, before " dwellers of cities " are able to mark and under- stand forest signs with any certainty. We found the elk had left the cholum fields and 16 The Hunting Grounds made for a steep ravine, at the bottom of which wound a mountain torrent, sometimes creeping silently among mossy stones, and at others dashing down over huge boulders of greenish granite, with a roar like distant thunder. " The deer evidently know this ground well, Hal," exclaimed Walter, breaking silence after an hour's heavy pull up and down hill, " for see, they have gone up stream to find a more convenient ford, as the current here is so strong that the fawns not being able to keep their legs, would have been swept away in crossing, so if you are not out of breath, we will after them at once, as the quicker we get over the ground the less will we have to cover, provided we go about it quietly and cautiously." On we went, sometimes on our hands and knees, creeping through dense underwood, and at others climbing rocks or wading watercourses, until we came to a place where the stream was shallow, and here it was evident that the deer had crossed very lately, as water was still flowing into the deep imprints made by their feet in the soft sands near the banks. " Take care not to make any splash as you go over, and tread carefully, Hal," whispered Walter; " the trail is warm, and the herd cannot be far off, for the slots indicate they have been going slowly, of the Old World. 17 browsing as they went, so they cannot have taken alarm." " Go ahead," I replied, feeling, I must own, rather nervous and excited, as who would not be, when after his first stag; and on we went, creeping along with the utmost caution for a quarter of an hour, when suddenly we heard a sharp noise, like the barking of a dog, which seemed to come from a dense thicket some short distance in our front. Walter pulled up at once, and I noticed Ponto, his canine friend, had also caught up the sound, for he had his head knowingly cocked on one side, as if he was listening carefully, and his nose elevated, as if he was trying to sniff the air, whilst a small stump an apology for a tail made sundry eccentric movements, indicating that something was in the wind. After a moment's pause, Walter touched my shoulder, and whispered below his breath, " That was the bark of a buck elk, so cock your rifle and step in front, as I want you to kill him ; he cannot be far off, therefore keep a bright look out, and be very careful not to make the slightest noise." I stole noiselessly along the run, following the slots, which were distinctly visible, until I came to a more open spot, where the jungle had been burnt the preceding year, and, crouching behind a thick bush, I had the extreme satisfaction of seeing the c 1 8 The Hunting Grounds herd, consisting of three harts and fourteen or fifteen hinds, some of which had fawns at heel, quietly cropping the herbage about two hundred yards distant. It was a glorious sight, and I felt my heart thump against my ribs as I gazed for some seconds, too full of admiration to think of firing, when Walter, touching my shoulder, whispered, " They are too far off to make certain, so try and crawl under cover of the bushes to that thick clump, and you will get an easy shot. If you go carefully you will not be discovered, as the wind blows strong from them to us, and I will follow when I see you safely posted." I did as he desired, and we were now about a hundred and twenty yards distant from the herd, which, still unaware of our presence, continued browsing on the young wood and tender shoots. This was the anxious moment everything hitherto had succeeded ; much time had been spent in tracking ; the game was before us ; and all now depended on a steady hand. " Take the nearest, Hal," whispered Walter, " and leave the further one to me fire when I whistle. Are you ready 3V I had covered the shoulder of a stately stag, with towering antlers and a large black ruff round his neck, and on the signal being given, let drive. He made a bound, staggered, then fell forward, and was instantly dead. of the Old World. 19 Walter, who had a very much longer shot, brought another fine hart to the ground, hitting him through the hind quarters, and paralyzing them, and, as the herd rushed by, wounded another as it sprang from an adjoining thicket, where it must have been lying down unobserved. I heard the " thud " as the ball struck against his dun side, and, jumping on a rock close by, let fly with my second barrel, but the shot was too high, it only cracked against his horns and stunned him for a moment, for he soon recovered and went off with the rest, seemingly as well as ever. " A splendid shot, by Jupiter!" exclaimed Walter, u for he was a good three hundred yards when you fired, but you were not quick enough, and as it has failed to stop him, we will first 'pay the last offices to the fallen,' and then sent Ponto on his track, for I feel sure he is hard hit, and if we do not urge him whilst the wound is fresh, but give it time to stiffen, he will be obliged to slacken his pace and fall out from the rest of the herd." Walter had shot his stag through the small of the back, and although completely- disabled, so as not to be able to drag itself along, it was not dead, and it was with some difficulty that he managed, with Ponto's assistance, to plunge his long knife in his chest and finish him. After we had bled, opened, and " gralloched " both, we covered the c 2 20 The Hunting Grounds carcasses over with thorny bushes and stones, to preserve them from the vultures, without which precaution we should only have found the bones when we returned with the coolies to carry away the game ; and having refreshed the inner man with a nip of "brandy panee," we reloaded our rifles and tracked up the hart Walter had wounded, which, from the size of the slots, appeared to be larger than either of those we had killed. Here and there we found the ground dyed with drops of blood, and where he rolled over when iny bullet struck his horn there was a bright crimson pool, which showed that he was hard hit. " He cannot travel far, Hal, in that state," said Walter, " so we will set the dog after him, and I do not doubt but that he will soon bring him to bay. Hey, Ponto! fetch him, boy." The intelligent animal looked up in his master's face, as if he could there read what was required of him, then made a cast with his nose along the ground, until he got scent of the wounded deer, when off he set at speed. We followed at our best pace, and, after a sharp run, had the gratification of hearing Ponto's deep tongue echoing among the rocks. "Bravo, my dog !" cried Walter ; "keep up, Hal, for five minutes longer, for by that cry I know the stag is at bay." We tore down the slope of the hill leading to the of the Old World. 21 river, and there he was, standing in the torrent, every now and then menacing Ponto with his antlers, who was swimming in the stream, and had enough to do to evade his frantic rushes. I was quite out of breath and powerless with the run, but Walter, standing up, at once firm and col- lected, took a deliberate aim with his unerring rifle; an echo was heard rumbling among the rocks, and the stag, taking a mighty spring, plunged into the stream, shot through the brain, and rose a lifeless thing. The current, which was extremely rapid, bore the carcass down for some distance, dashing it amongst the rocks and whirling it in the eddies, and we had considerable difficulty in getting down to drag it out, as the ravine was very steep and full of precipices and huge rocks. At last we managed to haul him high and dry on the bank, and having gral^ched and covered him over with branches and stones, we set off for the spot where we had left the Killadar some five or six hours be- fore. Just awakened from sleep, he had no idea that we had been away so long, and fancied we were joking when we told him of our sport. He sent his people, guided by Ponto, to sling the venison on poles and bring it in, and " there was a sound of revelry by night " in his little for- tress, for after sending a couple of haunches into 22 The Hunting Grounds cantonment, we divided the rest among his fol- lowers. I turned in that night very tired, and con- siderably bruised with sundry falls, but delighted with the success of my first day's deer stalking. On the following morning the Killadar got us up a beat in the ravine where a tiger had been seen some days previously, but it proved "a blank ;" and the day after, "our leave being up," we had to bid adieu to our native friends and return to canton- ment. of the Old World. 23 CHAPTER II. i HOG-HUNTING. The fortress of Golconda. The Tombs of the Kings. The gardens. Persian inscriptions. The gathering. Plan of operations. Reminiscences of the past. The start. The rendezvous. My nag Lai Babba. A moment of suspense. The find. We're away. The chase. The first blood. A purl. The advantages of being on good terms with one's nag. The tug of war. Exciting moments. The struggle for the spear. It is won. The charge. Mischief ensues. The death of the boar. The wounded hog- hunter. The death of an old friend. The trysting-tree. The trophies. The return to cantonment. IT was evening; the oppressive glare and over- powering heat of the day were gone, and the sun was setting with that gorgeous magnificence which is rarely to be seen except in " land of the cedar and vine.'' His last expiring rays tinged the whole of the heavens, from the western horizon to the zenith, with indescribably beautiful gold and crimson hues, and striking upon the numerous gilt pinnacles of the mosques and minarets which rose 24 The Hunting Grounds above the castellated walls of the hill-fort of Gol- conda, formed a contrast with the deep verdure of the mango groves and the lighter foliage of the graceful tamarind, on which the eye rested with delight. On the one hand lay Golconda, with its lofty rock-built citadel, bastioned walls, and loop-holed battlements; and on the other rose those magni- ficent structures of ancient days, the tombs of the kings, with their massive domes, gigantic cupolas, towering minarets, and stately piazzas. Many changes have taken place since the last of the Kootub Shawee dynasty was placed in his regal sepulchre. His kingdom has passed away into the hands of strangers, and his very name is now forgotten in the land where he was once pre-eminent'; still, these time-worn but stately monuments will attest to many succeeding generations the splendour and magnificence of the ancient rulers of Hindostan. No such works are carried on in the present day; and what makes these buildings more re- markable is, that the immense blocks of granite with which they are constructed have had to be transported from long distances, none being pro- curable in the immediate vicinity. The stupendous domes of these royal mausoleums were formerly ornamented with inlaid enamel of different colours, of the Old World. 25 forming beautiful arabesques ; but time, aided by the depredations of the ignorant, has succeeded in obliterating a great part, and it is only in the more sheltered and out-of-the-way places that this beau- tiful enamel can be seen in the same freshness of colour as it exhibited when first laid on. The wilful damage these relics of the past have sus- tained is the more to be regretted, as the very art of making this beautiful enamel has been for- gotten. The gray granite walls in the interior are beautifully carved, and in some places the door- ways and ornamented niches are of highly-polished black granite. The largest of the tombs will contain about 8,000 people, it being built in the shape of a square, having a verandah with forty-eight arches all round. Some of the pillars are carved out of single blocks of granite; and I noticed slabs with which the interior is paved upwards of sixty feet in length. Under the centre of the dome is the tomb itself, hewn out of a solid piece of black granite, highly polished as the finest marble, and covered with beautifully carved arabesques, Per- sian inscriptions, and verses from the Koran. At each corner of the building is a small arch- way, and a circular staircase in the thickness of the wall, leading to the tops of the minarets, from the upper galleries of which the Moussins used to 26 The Hunting Grounds call " the faithful " to prayer at five certain times during the day. In capacious vaults below are the tombs of the wives, favourite mistresses, and children of the kings, also of black, polished marble, covered with inscriptions. Besides the seven large tombs there are several smaller ones, also numerous Mosques, Eedgahs, Shrines, Tanks, Baths, Durm-salahs (alms-houses), Caravanserais, and Choultrees, for the accommodation of pilgrims and travellers, which are falling to ruin from neglect. There is a very tolerably kept up garden round one of the tombs, in which the mangoe, orange, lime, citron, pumelow, fig, jack-fruit, pomegranate, plaintain, cocoa-nut, vine, and betel-nut flourish. It is a delightful place, and quite in the Oriental style, having long shaded avenues, with stone borders, numerous fountains, and streams of run- ning water on each side, to irrigate the plants. Parterres of roses and Indian jessamine load the air with the most delicious fragrance, and at intervals are beautiful " kiosks " or garden-houses, of the most elaborate and delicately carved Sara- cenic architecture, profusely ornamented with ara- besques and quaint Arabic and Persian inscrip- tions, some of which I took the trouble of deci- phering, and found them to be guzzels, or verses, in which some fair beauty is described " as having of the Old World. 27 dark, almond-shaped eyes, in which the purity of her heart was reflected; but which committed more des- truction among the hearts of men than the double- edged sword of Rustum ; whose voice was like the evening song of the Dul-bul, mingled with the distant murmuring of many waters ; whose beauty made the rose turn pale with envy, and the passionflower drop to the ground from jealousy ; whose gait was grace- ful as that of the silver moon sailing through the firmament; whose lips were more delicious to taste than the rosy wine of Sheraz : whose smile gladdened the heart of all beholders, which became water in the presence of the lovely one" Numerous fountains to cool the air, and places for streams of running water, encircled many of these retreats; but the former would not play, and the latter were choked up, from neglect, and falling into ruin. The large tomb was appointed the rendezvous for a party of hog-hunters, of which I formed one ; and the number of cots stowed away in the nume- rous recesses round the interior of the building, showed that the " meet" would be well attended. Almost under the centre of the cupola, numerous gaily dressed attendants were engaged in laying out a table for dinner, and in the verandah, knots of Anglo-Indian officers, of all ranks, were sitting, with their feet resting against the stone pillars, or on tables, enjoying the comparative coolness of the 28 TJie Hunting Grounds evening breeze. A light and airy costume, con- sisting of silk long drawers, shirt sleeves, and slippers, was the order of the day ; some of the dandies amongst us indulging their penchant by " coming out " in gorgeous smoking caps, fancy muslin shirts, gold or silver kinkob pajamas (loose drawers), and embroidered papouches (slippers). We were a motley gathering of all arms. There were Light Cavalry and Light Bobs, Queen's and Company's, Kegulars and Irregulars, old weather- beaten veterans, bearded like the Druids of old, who had passed a quarter of a century in the country; and smooth-faced youngsters, who had not yet passed the first year of their yriffinage; yet all were in the same state of excitement at the thoughts of the morrow's sport. As we sat, waiting until dinner was announced, enjoying the murmuring, gurgling melody of our hookahs, or the fragrant weed in the shape of a Manilla or Trichinopoly cheroot, N , who was the originator of the expedition, proceeded to unfold the programme of the morrow's sport. We were to partake of an early breakfast at three A.M., and mounting our hacks, were to pro- ceed to the scene of action, near Raneepet, a village about twelve miles distant, where our tents and best cross-country horses had been des- patched the day previous. Our shekarries and of the Old World. 29 beaters had marked down several sounders (herds) of hog in a long strip of low jungle, contiguous to some tolerable riding ground, and had formed a chain, so as to prevent them making their way back into the denser cover. As the moon was nearly at the full, and the distance but short, beating was to commence at daylight, and first-rate sport was anticipated, for we had some old hands amongst us such as D , S , N , C , and O , who were well known as the best spears and the boldest riders in the Deccan, where hog-hunting, ever the favourite sport, was carried on in the greatest perfection, so that the first sportsmen of India came from far-off stations to display their skill, and the goodness and courage of their cattle, at these meetings. As it became dusk, some one sounded the din- ner-call on a key-bugle, which had a very fine effect, as the sound was echoed in the dome several times, as also among the other tombs. We sat down nearly thirty to table; and after the clatter- ing of knives and forks, and the popping of corks, had subsided, we withdrew to one of the kiosks or pleasure houses in the garden, where songs and brandy panee* passed round freely until a late hour. Since that night many long years have glided * Brandy and water. 30 The Hunting Grounds on, and I have wandered over half the globe ; still, when I hear those old, familiar airs, the scene often comes before my eyes, and I think I see the well-remembered features of my old asso- ciates, in the forest and the field, who used to sing them, although I know that many sleep beneath the sod, having fallen on the field, or been cut off by pestilence in the flower of their years, and the few survivors are scattered, and I have lost sight of most of them. India is not, perhaps, a land to live in from choice, still my heart clings to it with a kind of unhallowed love ; for it ever appeared to me to possess a peculiarly fascinating charm, which I have found wanting elsewhere. Memory takes me back to those happy days I passed in that glorious land; and as I look around my boyhood's home, in my native land (which to me long absence has given a novel freshness), and see the trophies of many a hard- fought field, and the spoils of my rifle and the spear hanging against the wall, I often think with affectionate regret of my old companions, and dream of the land " Where the maidens are soft as the roses they twine, And all, save the spirit of man, is divine." In the morning, at the time appointed, a bugle again rang through the place, and we were soon of the Old World. 31 round the breakfast table, equipped in leathers and boots. Some of the old hands had also sambur (elk) skin jackets, and all wore hunting-caps. We were soon in the saddle, and after a couple of hours' canter by the light of the moon, arrived at our tents, which were pitched under a stately banian, under whose widely spreading arms some sixty Arabs were picketted, each being groomed by his respective syce (horsekeeper). Coffee, brandy and soda water, and cheroots, &c., were handed round, and half an-hour was allowed for the saddling, when a messenger came from the head man of the village (who was with the beaters) to say that the hogs were undisturbed, and that all was in readiness. The tree under which our encampment was pitched must have been of great age, for under- neath were the ruins of a small Hindoo temple, which bore traces of great antiquity. Some of the shoots of the trunk had insinuated themselves amid the masonry, and appeared to grow out of the roof. The scene around was very picturesque ; craggy hills were towering above the sea of forest in every direction, and a beautiful lake lay between us arid the village, on which water-fowl of different kinds were distinctly heard. Partridges were calling all around as we mounted, and the first streaks of dawn were visible in the East. 32 Tfie Hunting Grounds I was mounted on a very favourite chesnut Arab, called Lai Babba (Lai signifies red, and Babba is a term of endearment, generally used towards children), full of fire, and who seemed to be as eager for the sport as any of us. He was of a very high caste, of great courage, yet exceed- ingly docile, having a good mouth an essential quality in a hog-hunter, and a famous cross-country horse, although small, not being over fourteen hands two inches ; but extremely active, very swift, and of great endurance, and I felt, as he bounded under me, that he was in first-rate working con- dition, and would not disgrace me. We cantered out to the scene of action, which was about half-a-mile from our tents, mustering twenty-seven well-mounted horsemen, and as soon as we had all taken post, two and two, some short distance from each other, like videttes, in the dry bed of a nullah, or watercourse, the banks of which hid us from view, the signal was given, and the beat commenced. We waited some twenty minutes without being able to distinguish anything, although we heard the distant sounds of tomtoms (a kind of drum), and cholera horns (a huge brass trumpet shaped like the letter S). After some time we began to discover, here and there, a long line of men slowly advancing through of the Old World. 33 the bushes, and when they got near enough for us to distinguish their turbans and black faces, the yells and ferocious shouts, together with the wild flourishes of the cholera horn, the rolling of tom- toms, and the constant discharge of matchlocks and rockets, made them appear like some wild horde advancing to attack us, with some slight show of discipline. As they closed upon us the din became horrid, and their screams and yells were more discordant than ever, when suddenly loud cries were heard along the line of "Soor! soor! (hog! hog!) Kaleejan- war!" (black beasts) and each horseman stood up in his stirrups and strained his eyes to ascertain which way the game had broken. It was an anxious moment, and intense excitement was de- picted on every face, as we waited impatiently in our hiding-place for the signal bugle which was to announce the start. At last the long- wished- for note rang forth ; each horseman grasped his spear, crushed his hunting-cap firmly on his head, dug in his spurs, and sprang from his cover at speed upon the plain. A sounder of seven hog were seen scouring over the ground at a tolerable pace, some four hundred yards from the cover from which they had broken. As soon as they heard the tramp of our horses approaching, they increased their speed, and a S4 The Hunting Grounds huge gray boar fell back to the rear, champing his tushes and tearing up the ground in a most threat- ening manner. As our object was to force them further into the plain, so as to cut them off and prevent their returning into the jungle, we rode slowly for the first quarter of a mile, then our pace increased, and we went fairly in at them. When we approached they separated, and some of the youngsters of our party made after four sows which kept off to our left. Although the pace was now becoming severe for some time, we appeared to gain but little on the boar, who, with a couple of sows, dashed away in a gallant style, clearing en route a nullah (watercourse), which brought many of the field to a check. Lall Babba was doing his work well, although he had become so excited with the chase that I had some little trouble in keeping him in hand. We cleared a yawning chasm which, though not more than nine feet wide, was difficult, as the opposite bank was two feet higher than the near one. Hearing a burst of laughter behind from O , I turned my head, and saw five or six of our number rolling in the dust, and one seemed hors de combat. Still on we tore, the field becoming more select, not numbering more than a baker's dozen. We now had a good burst, and one of the sows lagging of the Old World. 35 behind, bit the dust, after having twice charged in a most gallant manner. N claimed the first blood of the day. The pace was now becoming tremendous, and the second sow was rolled over by S , O , and D , whose spears were applied several times before we heard the final squeal (the signal of dissolution). I kept steadily after the boar, and by this diver- sion gained a couple of lengths ahead, when my horse put his foot on the loose stump of a tree and rolled over, giving me a header which made me see a considerable number of stars, and left me rather confused for the moment. On swept the field, which I could see was " tailing off" very considerably ; and after I had ascertained that no bones were broken, and Lall Babba had given himself a shake, I sprang into the saddle again, and was once more en route. I was very much thrown out by this spill, and had lost ground, but, as luck would have it, the hog made for a deep ravine, having a drop of more than a dozen feet, which brought our field to a check. The boar managed to scramble down, and running along the bottom of the nullah for some distance, climbed up the opposite bank. After riding some distance along the edge of the chasm, which was overgrown in "places by D 2 36 The Hunting Grounds stunted bush, I found a place which was a little more practicable, though the drop was still about eight feet deep, and the slope of the bank very steep. ^One more chance, thought I, springing from my horse, taking off the saddle and tying up the bridle Lall Babba and I were old friends, and he would follow me like a dog I threw the saddle into the bed of the nullah, and scrambled down afterwards myself. I then called him by name several times, and he came trotting along the bank as if he was seeking a more suit- able place to descend. He then returned to that part of the bank dow r n which I had scrambled, and stood pawing the edge hesitatingly. I again called him, and pretended to turn away down the bed of the nullah, when I shall never forget his appearance as he stood cocking his ears and lay- ing his head on one side, as he watched my motions with evident distress. He remained motionless a moment, as if he was considering what was to be done, then gave a loud whinny, sprang, and in a moment was rubbing his nose against my shoulder. I patted him on the shoulder, and talked to him as I adjusted the saddle, and from his intelligent looks one would have thought he understood every word I said. I then walked along the bed of the nullah for some little distance, and we of the Old World. 37 managed to scramble up the opposite bank, at a place which was not so steep. I then looked around for the hog, and at length discovered him jogging along at a very easy pace, about a quarter of a mile off, in the plain. I made after him, having first dipped my pocket- handkerchief in a pool of the nullah, washed the dust from the mouth and nose of Lall Babba, and given him a mouthful of water in my hunting-cap to refresh him ; and, in a short time, found myself within fifty yards of the boar, who evidently ex- hibited signs of distress, for he reeled from side to side, as he ran with his head strained forward, and his flanks heaved and were covered with foam. I was now joined by N , O , S , D , C , and W , who came up with their horses nearly " pumped," as they had had to ride nearly a mile down the nullah before they could find a place to cross. We were perceptibly gaining upon our prey, when, with a burst of recovered speed, he swerved off to the left, and in a moment I saw amid a few bushes a break in the ground, about a hundred yards in advance. I knew another " yawner" was ahead, and took a pull of my horse, so as to get him more in hand, and gather him together for the leap. This let N and C get a couple of lengths ahead, and S and T were neck and neck, closely followed by O , D -, and W . 38 The Hunting Grounds The hog cleared a deep chasm like a bird, and we all followed except W , whose horse fell on landing, giving him a heavy fall, and rolling over him. The ground now became firmer, the pace was terrific; and now came the tug of war for the honour of the spear suddenly the hog, which was not more than a dozen horses' lengths in advance, disappeared. "What's that?" cried some one behind. " God knows," cried N , ramming his hunting-cap down over his eyes, and in another moment we had leaped the steep bank of a nullah (a perpendicular drop of about seven feet), and were floundering in sand and water. D got an ugly fall, his horse rolling over him, and putting him liors de combat ; S also found his horse sprained in the stifle, and he had also to pull up. N , C , O , and myself, managed to scramble up the opposite bank, and were once more on terra firma. The pace was very severe, and began to tell; and although Lall Babba appeared less distressed than the other horses, I knew he could not last much longer. Still, on we went. I was neck and neck with N , and C and O were close behind. We were evidently fast closing with the hog, when we came to another yawning chasm, of which he made " an in and out." "Never say die," cried N , and over it we both flew, landing of the Old WorU. 39 safely on the other side (it was a good thirteen feet from bank to bank). O 's horse fell with him, and C 's was fairly done up to a stand- still, so we left them both behind. The game now lay between N and myself. He rode a splendid large-made Arab, of high caste, called Bidgeley (lightning), well known through- out the Deccan as a hog-hunter. My horse was smaller, but I had the advantage in weight of at least a stone, besides which, Lall Babba had been spared the long run down the banks of the ravine, and had not had the lost ground to make up, which told severely on the other horses. We were now upon a bit of very fair riding ground, and the boar was not more than a couple of spear-lengths ahead. The pace was too good to last long, and I could see it was telling severely on N 's horse, who was doing all he knew to keep him together. We were neck and neck, and now came the " struggle" for the spear. N made a vigorous attempt to hustle his horse, but without avail. Sitting steadily in my saddle, I gained the lead and kept it easily, Lall Babba following every twist and turn of the boar, like a greyhound after a hare. The tusker, now evidently nearly done, was slackening his pace, and reeling from side to side as he ran. Another moment, and the point of my spear was among his bristles a touch of 40 The Hunting Grounds the heel a lift of the bridle a Chiffney rush and the victory was won. The blade of my spear was planted deeply into his loins. With a ferocious grunt, a rolling of the eyes which portended mischief, and a champing of his tushes, he turned short round and charged. I wheeled Lall Babba round on his haunches, just in time to evade his frantic rush, he passed me like a shot on the near side, and attacked N , who was a couple of lengths behind, who received the charge on the point of his spear I saw the bamboo shaft bend like a wand, and then fly high up into the air; another second I heard a crash, and horse and man were rolling in the dust. In the twinkling of an eye I was alongside the infuriated animal, who was indulging in a series of grunts of defiance, preparatory to another charge, and, watching my opportunity, I buried the blade of my spear behind the shoulder blade, and drove it out of his breast. He uttered a faint squeal (the note of departing life), gave a sudden twist (his expiring effort), which wrenched the spear from my hand, struggled a few paces further, fell, and bit the dust, dying game to the last. I dismounted, and drew my hunting-knife across his throat, to let out the blood, loosened the girths of my saddle, and then went back to see what had become of N . of the Old World. 41 I found him sitting on the ground, with his face buried in his hands, in great distress, for his horse was struggling in the agonies of death a few pace's from him. This boar, in charging, had ripped up his belly, his tushes cutting like a knife, and the intestines, also much injured, were protruding from the wound. I saw at a glance that it was a hopeless case, and tapping N on the shoulder, I gave a significant look to a small pistol that I always carried loaded in my belt on such occa- sions, in case of accidents. He understood what was passing in my mind, walked up to his dying serviteur, and patted his neck. The poor animal, in spite of his agony, recognised his master, for he raised himself up partly from the ground, and rubbed his nose against his shoulder in a most affectionate manner. N kissed his forehead, and, passing his hand across his eyes, rushed into the jungle, saying, " Do not let him linger." When his back was turned, I placed the muzzle of my pistol to the suffering animal's temple, arid pulled the trigger a slight quiver of the body followed the report, and " Bidgeley" was dead. N cut off some of the hair of his forelock and tail for a souvenir, I slung his saddle and bridle over Lall Babba's back, and we slowly retraced our way towards the tents. We soon fell in with and C , who were 42 The Hunting Grounds reclining under a tree, as their horses were quite done up; and in a short time our syces (grooms) came up with fresh mounts. After having directed them where to find the hog, we mounted and rode into camp a distance of eight miles ; the boar having led us a chase of at least seven. We had a fearfully hot ride, as the sun had risen high above the horizon, and there was not a cloud to intercept his rays; the sultriness was getting more and more oppressive, and we found the wind scorching. To add to our distress, every now and then a " pishash," or whirlwind of dust, came twirling amongst us, filling our eyes and mouths. At last, as our encampment came in view, we could distinguish six hogs hanging to our trysting- tree ; and shortly afterwards the boar was hoisted up alongside of them. He was a huge brute, measuring thirty-eight inches in height at the shoulder, and his tushes were nearly nine inches in length. We sat down to a substantial breakfast (pork chops forming one of the items) and in the cool of the evening we returned to cantonment, some of us with aching bones and curious bumps on the cranium, which would have puzzled Gall or Spurtz- heim ; others with stripes of diachylum plaster on the face ; and all of us with cracked lips and sun- of the Old World. 43 burnt faces. Our horses, too, showed their work, and " our gayness and our gilt were all be- smerched." Still every one was content with the sport, and the incidents of the day afforded us ample topics of conversation when we met at Mess, when N was heard consoling himself for his loss by observing, that Bidegley had died as his master hoped to do " on the field in the mo- ment of victory " 44 The Hunting Grounds CHAPTER III. MULKAPOOK. '* Here couched the panting tiger on the watch ; Impatient but unmoved, his fire-ball eyes Made horrid twilight in the sunless jungle Till on the heedless buffalo he sprang, Dragged the low bellowing monster to his lair, Crashed through his ribs into his heart Quaffed the hot blood, and gorged the quivering flesh Till drunk he lay, as powerless as the carcass." Our camp. Mulkapoor. The Patel. Good news of shekar. "W" 's family. Scheme for a Nautch. The Begum. Her love of good liquor. The prescription. Chineah and my shekar gang. The doctor's ruse. News of a man-eater. Departure of the gang. IT was a fine morning, soon after sunrise, in the in the month of March, 18 , when I arrived at the little village of Mulkapoor, two days' march from Hydrabad, in the Deccan, in command of some irregular cavalry, which, with two companies of native infantry, formed the travelling escort of a begum (a lady of rank) and her daughter, who, with a large suite of followers and attendants of of the Old World. 45 both sexes, was en route for the Presidency. The cavalcade consisted of numerous elephants, camels, palanquins, tonjons, hackeries, and vehicles of every description and colour, accompanied by a large body of gaudily dressed mounted attendants. The principal personages occupied the public bungalow, round which high canvass walls had been placed, and sentries posted, so as "to pre- vent intrusion, and render it entirely private ; besides which numerous black eunuchs guarded the fold, and seemed to take a jealous care " that none should pierce the secret bower, but those who watch the women's tower." The troops and camp followers halted on the open ground in front of the traveller's bungalow, and in a few short moments tents of every descrip- tion uprose as if by magic ; elephants, camels, and horses were eating quietly at their pickets; and in less time than it takes me to write, this little clearing from the surrounding jungle was con- verted into a busy camp. The scenery about Mulkapoor is very wild and beautiful. On all sides are ranges of hills, some covered with luxuriant jungle, others presenting bold * scarped rocks and naked fantastic peaks, whilst in every direction from amongst the dense foliage noble forest trees towered like giants above the lower waving jungle. 46 The Hunting Grounds The scene in camp, though of every-day occur- rence in India, would appear curious enough to a stranger, and merits description, for the noise of the trumpeting of elephants, the jingling of the camel's bells, the neighing of horses, the lowing of carriage bullocks, the bargaining of sepoys and camp followers with the bazaar men, was only heightened by the chase of a stray capon, whose errant ways were calling forth the indignation of my maity (cook) "Five minutes" (a cognomen he had acquired from the invariable answer he gave when anything was wanted), who, joined by half a dozen sepoys, was shying his slippers at this victim devoted to "sudden death" for our break- fast, and venting their spleen by abusing its fe- male relations up to the tenth generation. Three English officers belonging to the detachment of infantry, and a Scotch doctor, who had medical charge of the party, had taken refuge under a large tamarind tree from the rays of the sun, that was rising high on a sky which had not a cloud upon it to intercept his beams, and were discussing brandy panee, tea, and manilla cheroots, waiting until their tents were properly established. As I joined the group, the old Patel, or head man of the village, came up, and having presented the customary lime, performed a series of low salaams to each of the party. He then drew up of the Old World. 47 his hands together in token of respect, and begged us to excuse his not having made more prepara- tions for our reception, stating " that he had only received intimation of our coming the day before, and that, on account of this short notice, he had become "lachar" (desperately miserable) when he thought that, perhaps, we might want something that he had not had time to provide. As the old man had provided plenty of "gram" (beans) and forage for our horses, with a fine table sheep and fat fowls for ourselves, we declared ourselves satisfied, upon which his face brightened up, and stroking down his long gray beard, he exclaimed several times in a very complaisant manner, "Allah talah !" " Al-humda lillah !" (thank God! God be praised!). " I should much like to halt a few days here," said Mac, the senior subaltern, addressing Captain W , who commanded the infantry detachment, "for there must be splendid shooting in those dense ravines." "Yes," answered W , "it looks quite In an hour I received intelligence that the line was formed ready to advance, and, it being now broad daylight, I gave the signal to move on, by a ferocious flourish of cholera horns, which sound was imme- diately taken up by all the tomtoms, horns, and dubties ; and this discordant music was only surpassed by the unearthly howling and shouting of the beaters, who seemed to outvie with each other as to who could utter the most fiendish yells. The Doctor, who kept near me, was armed with a heavy single four-ounce rifle which he had taken from one of the gang ; and as he marched along he shouted at the top of his voice, in a most ferocious and threat- ening manner, something that appeared to me to be some very ancient Gallic war-cry, until his breath failed him. His route was perfectly well marked by strips of his old blue regimental frock-coat, which were left hanging on the thorns of the bushes as he passed. As we advanced, sudden crashes every now and again in the jungle let us know that the game was a-foot. Now a herd of deer, or a sounder of hog were visible for a moment, as they bounded through the thicket in front of us. Sometimes a flock of pea- fowl passed over our heads, or a swarm of monkeys went jabbering away in the trees above us, shrieking 80 The Hunting Grounds and making faces at us as we passed, and perhaps thinking the Millennium was at hand, from the terrific noise made by the beaters. Suddenly, cries were heard along the line of "Keech, Keech!" "Yellago bunte!" (a bear, a bear!). And almost immediately a large female bear and her two cubs came rolling along the line of beaters towards us. The Doctor gave a fiendish yell, and, unable to restrain his impetuosity, let drive and hit one of the cubs which passed within six paces of him the recoil of the piece, for which he was not prepared, knocking him down on the broad of his back. The enraged mother charged right at him, overturning a beater in her course, and in a moment more she would have given him a severe mauling, if I had not tum- bled her over, dead, with a ball behind the shoulder, as she was in full career towards her fallen enemy. Bones picked himself up, and, though considerably shaken by his fall, rushed frantically to secure his prize, which was struggling in the agonies of death. The other cub was caught alive by one of the beaters. I reloaded my rifle, and then took the Doctor to task for firing on the lesser game ; but it was of no use talking to him, he evidently considered he had performed a great feat, and, although tears ran down his goodnatured old face as he wrung my hand and thanked me over and over again for my lucky shot, of the Old World. 81 still he felt he was quite a hero, and shouted at the top of his voice for the rest to hear him, " I've killed a bar! I've killed a bar! Jock, mon, do ye hear? I've killed a bar!" After much difficulty, I per- suaded him to relinquish his much esteemed trophy to the charge of a beater, and Chineah having re- loaded his gun, the line again moved on. The old man went along delighted as a child ; and amid a succession of grunts, which with him denoted satisfaction, I heard him muttering something about preserving the skeleton, tanning the skin to make a muff, and boiling down the fat to be sent to an old sister, &c., although the wild animal he had killed was but little larger than a sucking-pig. He strode along perfectly happy, as if he had done his work. Very shortly afterwards we heard several successive shots on the right, where I knew W was posted, and almost immediately a beater came running up with the news that three tigers were afoot, and that W had wounded one severely, but that it had taken refuge in the high grass we had passed through yesterday. Ordering the line to halt, and taking three troopers with me, loaded with rockets, to drive them out should it be necessary, I went to join W , who had just reloaded his guns as I came up. He told me that he had seen three tigers, one of which he had wounded, after having fired five shots G 82 The Hunting Grounds as they were bounding through the long grass and brushwood. I examined the pugs, and found them to be the same as those that had crossed the trail of the man-eater the day before, and which I had sup- posed to have belonged to a tigress and her two cubs. Several of the beaters saw the wounded tiger linger after the others, and had marked it take re- fuge in the small island caused by the dividing of the nullah. It was a kind of bank, raised about three feet above the bed of the water-course, and, perhaps, eighty yards long, by thirty wide, being covered with grass and reeds about five feet high, and so overgrown with low bushes, and tangled underwood, that it would have been impossible for the beaters to have made their way through it. I posted the Doctor, W , and some of the gang, with fire-arms, so as to command a view on all sides, cautioning each how to fire so as not to hit any of the rest, and when all was ready Chineah struck a light with his flint and steel, and standing to windward fired the high grass, which was as dry as tinder from the long drought, and blazed up, roaring and crackling, in an instant. I then took post by a hole in the bank, where the grass bore traces of having been recently disturbed and trodden down, it being, I thought, a likely place for the tiger to break. of the Old World. 83 Everything promised well ; we were all ready with our arms, and waited with impatience for the appear- ance of the tigers. The devouring element had burnt half through the patch; still we could perceive no signs of their presence, or, indeed, any movement in the grass. The fire roared and crackled like the file-firing of musketry, dark and dense volumes of smoke rose in a huge column against the cloudless sky, and I began to be afraid that the beaters had been mistaken in supposing the brute to have taken refuge in the cover, when suddenly the air resounded with a fear- ful roar, and immediately a magnificent tigress and a half-grown cub sprang into the sandy bed of the nullah, from a place close to where the fire had reached. I heard a simultaneous discharge of half-a- dozen shots, and through the smoke I just discerned the brute make a second spring, which was imme- diately followed by a piercing yell. I knew that some calamity had taken place, and sprang forward just in time to see the infuriated brute tear away the flesh from the thigh to the knee of W 's poor horse- keeper, who was lying motionless. The tigress, who appeared wounded, was stretched half-leaning over her victim ; she turned her head as I approached, and couched, as if to make a spring ; I raised my rifle slowly, fearing to injure the poor fellow, and then let drive. The ball went crashing into her G 2 84 The Hunting Grounds brain, and she fell dead on her side, the blood stream- ing from her mouth and nostrils. The poor horsekeeper did not appear quite dead, though I saw at once that there was no hope for him ; for the whole back part of his head was carried away by the first blow from the paw, which, at the same time, had torn down the flesh from the back of the neck between the shoulders as if it had been done with an iron rake. The hands were beating the ground with a nervous, palpitating motion, and two or three tremulous shudders passed over the whole body ; but soon all was over, and I gave orders to a couple of coolies to carry the corpse to the village for burial. One of the shekarries had killed the cub with his matchlock, and the remains of the other was found partially burnt by the fire, W having wounded it so severely in the hind-quarters as to prevent it being able to move away on the approach of the line of fire; and the tigress appeared to have remained with her offspring until the fire had actually reached her, for I afterwards remarked that the skin was much singed and burnt in places. W was much affected at the loss of his horse- keeper, for he had been in his service for some years, and had always proved himself a faithful servant. However, as nothing could be done, we retook our station in the line and the battue was continued. of the Old World. 85 On approaching the lair discovered the day be- fore, we discharged several rockets into it, and a fine bull-neilghau and two cows charged boldly against the line of beaters. Mac broke the shoulder of the bull with a well-directed shot, which stopped him in his mad career, and, stepping up, despatched him with the second barrel as he lay upon the ground before he could pick himself up. He was a very fine specimen, with a long, flowing mane. The two cows broke through the line of beaters and escaped, though one of them appeared severely wounded by a volley from the beaters. A young cheetah was killed by the dhoby, as he attempted to sneak away through the bushes. We had now driven the game into a large patch of jungle running along the river, on one side of which was a piece of tolerably open ground, and here we posted ourselves behind trees or rocks, in the most favourable places when the game broke. I also formed a second chain of men armed with muskets and matchlocks, as I knew that an immense quantity of game had been driven into that patch of jungle, and that some of it might escape our first line of guns. When we were all ready I gave the signal, and the beaters began to drive the game towards us. Sounders of pig and herds of elk and spotted deer burst several times to the edge of the jungle, but 86 The Hunting Grounds always broke back again, as if they dreaded danger in the open ground and feared to cross it. At last a sturdy bear showed the way into the plain, and was rolled over by Mac with a single ball. Soon afterwards a herd of sambur (elk) and a sounder of hog broke ; and a fine buck, two does, and a sow bit the dust from the united volley poured in from all sides. Then two cheetahs came bounding into the plain, followed by another bear ; and one of the former fell by a ball from Kistiinah's matchlock, and the other was badly wounded by one of my troopers, and after- wards despatched by the matchlock - men on the second line. The bear was killed by Jock, having made several ferocious charges after he had been wounded, in one of which a cooly was slightly mauled by his claws. Then another cheetah broke, and charged through our line scathless, though several shots were fired at him. The beaters were now heard approaching very near, and I thought everything in the shape of large game must have been driven out of the inclosed patch of jungle, when suddenly I heard a cry of " Bagh ! Bagh I " (a tiger ! a tiger !) from one of my troopers, and almost immediately I saw a magnificent full-grown tiger stealing quietly across a little open glade or break in the jungle. He was almost broadside on to me, but I was of the Old World. 87 afraid of firing as I saw a group of my people were beyond him in the line of fire. I let him go on a little, threw up my rifle, and took a steady aim just behind his shoulder, pulling the trigger just as he moved his fore arm whilst walking. When the smoke cleared away a little, I had the pleasure of seeing him stretched lifeless on his side ; my ball having passed through his heart, death was instantaneous. He was a fine, full-grown male tiger, whose beautifully marked skin measured eleven feet four inches from the tip of the nose to the end of the tail. I got another shot at a buck spotted deer, which I wounded in the hind-quarters, paralysing them, and W finished him for me. The beaters now made their appearance ; they had killed four deer, three pigs, and a bear, and reported that two other tigers, some neilghau, and several herds of deer and hog had burst through their line. One of their number was severely wounded in the thigh by a huge boar, which charged and knocked him down after he had been wounded. The flesh of the thigh was cut as clean as if it had been done with a knife, so we bandaged it up as well as we could, the Doctor devoting a certain part of his nether clothing for the business, which performance caused us no little amusement, as we could not for some time make out what the old gentleman was after. 88 The Hunting Grounds Constructing a litter with the branches of trees was the work of a few minutes, and we sent him to the village carried by coolies. Although he must have suffered a good deal of pain, he kept up his spirits in a remarkable manner, and seemed quite satisfied when he saw his antagonist brought in dead. We halted by the side of the river, where we bathed whilst the beaters were collecting the game, of which the following is the list : Two tigers and two cubs, three cheetahs and one cub, three bears and two cubs (one taken alive), five elk, four spotted deer, four pig (four small squeakers, taken alive), one porcu- pine, and one bull-neilghau total, thirty-two head of game. I then dispatched the gang to cut some stout poles, which, being thrust through the back sinews of the game, the coolies were enabled to carry it away slung on their shoulders, after having disembowelled the neilghau and deer. The total weight of our bag may be fancied, as over two hundred stout coolies were employed to carry it, and even then they went but slowly, had to rest often, and were frequently relieved by their comrades. My gang went in front with their bill-hooks and axes, cutting down the branches so as to enable the loaded coolies to pass, and as the jungle was thick in some places our course was necessarily slow. As we approached the village of Botta Singarum of the Old World. 89 all the cholera horns, tomtoms, and dubties, forming up in procession, poured forth their notes of triumph ; and, joined by the voices of the united company of beaters, bearers, coolies, servants, sepoys, and vil- lagers, the row was something fearful, and better to be imagined than heard. When we came near our camp the procession was re-formed : my gang and some of the sepoys amused themselves by dancing in front of the dead tigers, before which our guns were carried decked out with flowers, and singing an ex- temporary song, the burden of which was something to this effect : " That great and gallant deeds had been performed that day ; that four tigers of burnt fathers having eaten dirt, and the brave and generous gentlemen being satisfied with their day's sport, plenty of buksheesh and inam (rewards and presents) would, as a matter of course, fall to the lot of their well-wishing followers, whose mouths were watering and stomachs panting with the thoughts of how they would be filled by the sheep which the well-known charitable and generously-minded gentlemen would certainly distribute." The chorus, being taken up by the whole party, was something deafening. The game was laid down on the open space o ground in front of the bungalow, and the ceremony of breaking up was commenced by the oldest shekarry present burning the whiskers of the dead tiger, whilst he sang a monotonous song, in which he abused the 90 The Hunting Grounds whole race, and finished by spitting on his face and right paw. The Begum, who, it appears, was watching the performance with great interest from the bungalow, sent one of her followers to me with plenty of salaam, and a request that I would send her a tiger's heart and liver, with some of the blood, for medicine : which I did, to her great satisfaction. The game being now all broken up and cut into pieces, a fine haunch of venison was sent to our tents, and a young doe, which, when wounded, had been properly " hollolled" by a Mussulman (that is to say, had its throat cut whilst the operator mut- tered a certain text of the Koran, asking a blessing on the meat), sent for the acceptance of the Begum ; the rest was divided among the whole number of troopers, sepoys, beaters, and camp-followers. We also made a subscription amongst us, which was divided as buksheesh, and every one went to his home satisfied and happy. of the Old World. 91 CHAPTER VI. THE GANG. The Begum's invitation accepted. My Shekar gang. Goo- gooloo's history and the discovery of the Yanadi caste. Googooloo's gifts. Insinuations. A S I was standing superintending the preparation ** of the skins, which my gang were pegging down tightly on the ground and rubbing with cocoa-nut oil and turmeric to preserve them, the black aide- de-camp of the Begum came up, and, with many compliments on the part of his mistress, informed me that she would only be too happy if we would do her the honour of attending a nautch that evening. I accepted the invitation on the part of us all, bidding him tell the Khanum sahiba "that her kind- ness had made a deep and lasting impression on our hearts, and that, ere the evening gun boomed through the camp, our shadows would cross her hospitable threshold," and then joined the other officers, who were sitting smoking in front of my tent and dis- cussing the sports of the day. 92 The Hunting Grounds " Do you think, Harry/* asked W , as I came up, " that the tiger you killed to-day was the man- eater who has committed all these depredations lately ?" " No," I replied, " Kistimah assures me that it is not ; and I have no reason to doubt his assertion, as tigers are common enough in this part of the country. I shall, however, again try for him, for I hear we shall be detained here three or four days longer, as the Begum expects some one coming from Hydrabad. You are aware that I have sent the best of my gang to follow up his trail, so we have not heard the last of him ; for if Googooloo and Naga are at fault and cannot find out his whereabouts, I do not believe that there is a man between this and Cape Comorin who can." " I readily believe you," answered W . " There is not such another shekar-gang in the country, and Googooloo is certain as a bloodhound if he once gets on trail; I have seen him track a bear over rocky ground when I could not observe the mark of a single pug it must be innate instinct." " Yes," said Jock, " he is a wonderful fellow. But what astonishes me most is the extraordinary manner in which he watches his master's eye, as if he could there read what was required of him ; and when he speaks I can only understand a word or two of the Old World. 93 now and then, although I have a tolerable knowledge of the different lingos." " You must give us a history of the gang after dinner, Harry," said W , " for we have not time now, as the first bugle has sounded some time." " Yees," put in the Doctor, who just joined us, " and ye had all better be quick, too, as my stomach has been crying cupboard this long time, an' this child will no be answerable for his actions 'gin ye come not soon after the viands are placed on the table. Ugh! ugh! ugh!" So we all rose and returned to our tents, and after a refreshing bath again met at the table. We were in good appetite for our dinner after the day's fag, and " Five Minutes," whose ordinary- colour was a bright black, assumed quite a greenish tinge, as he blushed at the praise his cuisine called forth. The old Doctor was in great spirits, and became actually uproarious when Mac, alluding to his feat with the bear, proposed his health as a sportsman who that day had made his debut, and he actually crowed and purred again when I advised him now to adopt a bear for his crest, with the motto, " Ursus Vinci." " Now, Harry," said W , when dinner was over and cheroots and brandy panee (water) cir- 94 The Hunting Grounds ciliated, " you must give us the history of the gang." "Yes, yes !" vociferated the rest, " let us have it." " Very well, gentlemen," said I, drawing in a long pull at my hookah ; " I shall begin with Chineah, my head shekarry. He is the son of my old water- man, and has been in my service since he was quite a boy, when he used to carry my powder and shot, and act as a beater when I went after snipe. I found him very clever in marking down birds, and he seemed to take such an intense delight in going out with me that I bred him up to the work, and taught him to clean and look after my guns, which you know he does now to perfection. This is seven years ago, and now I should hardly know what to do with- out him. " He is devoted to my interests, very cool and steady in time of danger, a first-rate hand in picking up news of game, and never so happy as when out in the deep jungle. His only fault is, that he is at times too fond of rackee (spirits), and has too large an establishment of the fair sex, who are always squabbling and fighting for him in the servants' outhouses." " Oh, yes," said W , " I know him of old ; but tell me about Googooloo, and let us hear where you picked him up." " GoogoolooV history is a strange one/' I answered, of the Old World. 95 and I came across him in an extraordinary way. You may all perhaps remember poor old M of the th, the kindest-hearted fellow, the best shot, and the coolest sportsman who ever pulled trigger, and who came to such an unfortunate end. We were great chums, and were always out together in the jungle ; and to his intuition I must attribute my knowledge of forest life, for, although always fond of sport, I must confess I was but a griffin until he took me in hand. Well, we were out together in the Chettagunta jungles, about five years ago, in the very hottest weather, and had fagged for three days with very little success. There was no possibility of * stalking/ for, in consequence of the great drought, the leaves and twigs on the ground had become so very dry and brittle that every step we took they cracked underfoot so loudly that the game always took the alarm before we could get within shot. On account of the great heat, we had been expecting the monsoon to break every day, and M had observed that it was that day the 6th of June, and that for several years past the hospital register showed the monsoon had broken between the 6th and the 10th. As there was not a cloud to be seen on the deep cerulean sky, I stated my opinion that we should have no change of weather that day, and away we went far into the deep jungle, where we intended to sit up at night by a pool of water, near 96 The Hunting Grounds which a tiger was said to lurk, and where bison often drank. We had come into a beautiful open glade in the jungle, in the centre of which, on a rising ground, stood a magnificent ' banian,' whilst clumps of huge forest-trees were scattered about in groups here and there, giving the place much the appearance of a gentleman's park in England. In a ' jheel ' or swamp, which was nearly dry, orchideous plants of every form and hue formed such a parterre that Chiswick itself could hardly equal ; and never did I behold such luxurious vegetation. Yet this was in the centre of dark and almost impenetrable jungle, and at least twenty miles from the nearest habitation we knew of. Whilst we were remarking on the extreme beauty of the scene, suddenly I observed that the sky had become overcast, and thunder was heard rumbling in the distant hills. Presently large drops fell, and we had every indi- cation of a heavy fall of rain. I gave orders to my people to pitch a small hill-tent we had with us as soon as possible, so that at any rate we might keep the guns and ammunition dry, and in the mean time we took shelter under the banian tree, where the people were employed in cutting tent- pegs and gathering firewood. M was reclining smoking on a carpet, close to the main trunk of the tree, when suddenly we thought we heard a rustling above our heads, about ten feet from the of the Old World. 97 ground, just where the branches and arms began to shoot, and almost immediately we heard an extra- ordinary kind of sneeze coming from the same quarter. We started up and seized our guns, but could see nothing, for the whole fork of the tree was covered with masses of various kinds of parasitical plants. 4 Look out Harry !' cried M , ' there is some beast in that tree ; most likely a leopard lying in wait for deer/ Having warned our people to move out of the way, we walked carefully round, trying to discover where the brute lay hid ; but all was now still, and we could see nothing from below. I got up one of the many branches thrown out by the parent stem, and looked carefully among the mass of vegetation which rested on the fork of the tree, still I could perceive nothing. I then got down and climbed upon the shoulders of a stout cooly, with a couple of men holding me by the calves of my legs, so as to keep me steady, and rifle in hand I made them walk up close to the foot of the tree, M standing near ready to cover me with his fire should any beast make a spring. Still I could see nothing. Bidding one of the coolies hand me up some stones, I threw them in the thickest parts of the masses of creepers, when I distinctly heard a low grunting. I desired the coolies to go to that part from whence the noise appeared to proceed, and, after a careful investigation, I thought I saw a pair of bright eyes H 98 The Hunting Grounds twinkle, and something black moving about, which at first sight looked like the hair of a bear. I put up my gun and covered the object, but did not like to fire, as I was afraid of only slightly wounding the beast. M- , who saw the motion I made with my gun, asked me what I saw. I told him I thought a bear was concealed in the tree, as I could distinctly see some long black hair. ( A bear ! ' said he, 'perhaps it is, these gentry often climb trees on the look out for honey, yet I think it is much more likely to be a black monkey. Fire at it, however, whatever it is, I am ready to look out for squalls, and perhaps it may be a black panther.' With any other man than M I should have hesitated to fire, considering the awkward position I was in, perched on the shoulders of a man who I knew would bolt at the first sign of danger, and expose me not only to a nasty fall, but also to the mercy of a wounded brute. But with M I felt quite safe, knowing his extreme coolness in time of danger, and the fatal accuracy of his aim. Again I raised the rifle to my shoulder and was about to pull trigger, when I bethought me that if it was only a bear he could not spring on me, and that I could fire with more fatal eifect from the tree itself. I accordingly got on to the fork of the tree, and as soon as I got a steady footing I raised my rifle to fire. Again I put it down, thinking that I might only of the Old World. 99 slightly wound the brute by firing in this way, so I gave the black mass of hair a poke with the end of the barrel of my gun in order to stir it up. Imagine my astonishment when 1 saw the upper part of a human face and a pair of eyes bob up and then go down again I To hang my rifle on a broken branch and whip out my shekar knife was the work of a moment, and thus armed I clutched the supposed animal by the hair, and shouted to M and the rest to come up ; when the thing I was holding began to moan and struggle, and shortly a curious kind of paws, with huge claws, emerged from below and fastened on my hand, and it was only by frequent blows with the handle of my knife that I could pre- vent them from tearing the flesh. At that moment I was not sure whether I had not got hold of some kind of chimpanzee or ourang-outang, and I shouted out lustily for help. M , the shekarries, and coolies soon got up into the tree, and with their assistance I dragged up from a hollow in the trunk two most extraordinary creatures in human shape. One was old and wrinkled, the other quite a child, and both belonged to the weaker sex, but whether of the genus * man ' or ' monkey ' I was not at all sure. They were of a dark olive colour, and the tallest was nothing like four feet high. She just was a beauty, without a stitch of clothing, except a piece of creeper tied round her hair to keep it out H 2 100 The Hunting Grounds of her eyes, which were small, and very piercing when she opened them, but she kept them shut, just taking* a peep now and again like a frightened ape. She grunted very hard, and I saw a couple of tears rolling down her weather-beaten and wrinkled cheeks as the gang tied her by the leg to the root of the tree to prevent her running away. The child hung close to the mother, keeping its face hid in her lap, and I had a dog-chain passed round its ancle, and fastened with a padlock to a root also. We looked at them for a long time before we were quite sure whether they were human. I fancied at first that they were some kind of hybrid, for I never beheld such strange objects. The nose was nearly flat, the mouth most capacious, and full of large yellow teeth. The arms were long, attenuated, and wizened ; and may Jove defend me from such nails as were attached to the extremities of the digits, which resembled more the claws of a huge vulture, both in colour and form, than anything else. M said that the existence of these wild people of the forest had been often questioned, but that he had always believed that there were such tribes, having come across their traces in the dense forests to the south of the Neilgherri Mountains. " A heavy shower of rain fell in the afternoon, but towards evening the weather cleared up again, and we pitched our tent, built a hut of branches for the of the Old World. 101 people, and lit a huge fire, round which all were as- sembled, preparing the evening repast. One of the shekarries brought a piece of hard wood with a sharp point, and three or four wild jungle yams, which he said these wild people must have dug up just before we surprised them, as they were quite fresh. I gave the yams to the child, who, after a little hesitation began to eat, in which operation the mother assisted. I then sent for some raw potatoes, which both ate with great relish, though they still evinced great fear of us, and watched with suspicion every movement we made, with their little twinkling eyes. When our dinner was served we threw them bits of meat and some boiled rice, which seeing us eat, they followed our example. When we took our coffee after dinner I gave them some sugar, at which they evinced their satisfaction by clapping their hands on their thighs as they sat on their heels, smacking their lips and utter- ing some curious grunting sentences to each other, which neither M , myself, nor any of our people could understand. Towards evening they appeared to have gained more confidence, and I made one of the servants unfasten the old woman. He had hardly done so, when, finding herself at liberty, she gave herself a shake like a dog on coming out of the water, and with a grunt and a yell sprang into the jungle before any of our people could stop her. Finding, however, that the child, which was still fastened, did 102 The Hunting Grounds not follow her, she returned, and again crouched down by its side. I made the people take no further notice of them, and gave her more sugar, which she took and ate without hesitation. She now seemed to have made up her mind that we did not intend to do her any harm, for she began to examine us more closely, and even to finger our clothes, which she must have imagined to be of Nature's own providing, for she slunk back alarmed when she saw M pull off his cap, as if she thought his head would have followed. At dusk we were all sitting round an immense log- fire. The usual glass of rackee and allowance of tobacco had been distributed to each of the gang, and we were discussing the prospect of the morrow's sport, for we were not inclined to sit up for game that night, when suddenly M sprung up and shouted in Hindostani, 'Look out, men! those jungle wallahs are about. 5 I seized my rifle, and listened attentively, but could hear nothing. M said, 'I am sure they are near at hand, for I distinctly heard the chirping of a squirrel, which sound, you know, is never heard after nightfall, and I noticed the old woman's eye glisten as she caught up the sound.' He was right, for almost immediately four or five arrows fell about our fire, though without hurting any one. I took one to the old woman, and, giving her a lump of sugar and some raw potatoes, told Chineah to lead her towards that part of the jungle of the Old World. 103 from whence the arrows appeared to come, I following at some little distance with my gun and one or two of my people, to protect him should it be necessary. When we got out of sight of the fire she made a queer noise, like the cooing of the imperial pigeon, which sound was almost immediately taken up in two places from behind some clumps of bushes. Again she uttered a curious note, and shortly after- wards I saw other figures join her in the gloom. At first I felt rather apprehensive for Chineah's safety, but, as they did not seem inclined to offer him any violence, I did not join their party, fearing to give them alarm. After a consultation, which seemed to last nearly a quarter of an hour, between the old woman and her people, they followed her towards our fire. When I came up I found the group consisted of three men, two women, and a child, all in the same state of nature as those we had discovered in the tree. The men were but little over four feet, and the women considerably shorter, and they all wore their hair tied with a piece of creeper at the back of their head, and spreading out behind like a peacock's tail. They had short bamboo bows, the strings of which were formed of the sinews of some animal, and the arrows were reeds hardened by fire, and tipped with the quills of peafowls. They were in great fear when we first approached, but seemed to get over it by degrees, and ate sugar, raw potatoes, and rice with 104 The Hunting Grounds great relish. They held a long communication with the old woman, in a strange guttural language which none of us could understand ; and she must have allayed their fears, for they all laid down by the fire and slept, or rather pretended to sleep, for every now and then I saw one or the other open his eyes and look suspiciously, round. Some of my gang kept watch during the night, and I still kept the first child chained by the leg. In the morning when I got up I found them squatting on their hams in deep consultation. I showed them the skin of a bear which M had killed a few days before, and they evidently knew what the animal was at once, for they imitated the noise of his grunting exactly. I pointed out the bullet-holes in the skin, and showed them my gun, which, much to their consternation, I fired against a tree ; and, when their fright had a little subsided, I showed them the hole in the trunk which the bullet had made, and one of my people cut it out with an axe. This instrument seemed to surprise them more than anything else. They could not understand it at all at first ; but, after they had seen it used a few times, nothing would please them so much as to set them to work chopping up firewood. They amused themselves thus for hours together watching the chips fly, laughing and grunting to each other, and con- versing in their curious guttural language. " I shot in those jungles nearly a month, and then of the Old World. 105 it was that I found what invaluable shekarries the Yanadi tribe make ; for as trackers none equal them. Day by day they acquired more confidence in us, and in a short time they began to fall into our ways, and joined my gang. Googooloo attached himself to me like a dog, and has been with me ever since ; the others are still in their old haunts. We speak a jargon of our own that no one understands but our- selves; it is a medley of Hindostani, Malabar, Tellegoo, and his own peculiar grunts. He can, however, now make himself tolerably understood by my people, though we are sometimes at a loss to know what he means. Chineah and he are great friends, and each in their way are unequalled as she- karries. Googooloo used to look upon me as a superior being for some time, but now I think his adoration has been transferred to my huge bone smasher (a six-ounce rifle), to which he has fre- quently been seen to salaam and pray, laying the choicest flowers before it, much to my gardener's indignation. I have since heard that these aborigines of the forest have been found in all the deepest jungles throughout India, and are called Yanadi, Crumbers, Mulchers, Yaks, Carders, Morats, and Coons. They live upon roots, fruit, and any small animal they can catch in the jungle, having no habita- tions of any kind, but generally living in trees or caves. From constant practice, their senses of seeing, 106 Tlie Hunting Grounds hearing, and smelling are developed in an extra- ordinary way. Googooloo has the eye of a hawk, the ear of a hare, and the nose of a hound. Often, whilst going along in the jungle, have I seen him suddenly halt, stand a moment with his nostrils dilated, as if he was snuffing the air, and then, draw- ing his axe, rush into the jungle, from which he would presently return with a honeycomb, which he had discovered in some hollow tree by the scent alone. He is wonderful in this way, and you may fancy what a useful follower he is in the deep jungle." " I can, indeed," said W , " but your fellows are all the same ; they seem to consider you and everything belonging to you as part and parcel of themselves, and when anything is required they go to work with a will. You never seem to have any trouble in looking after them, yet your horses are always in the best condition, your dogs are well cared for, your guns are kept so clean that one might rub them with a cambric handkerchief with- out soiling it ; your cob, saddles, and harness are always in first-rate order, and you always sit down to a comfortable table. I cannot imagine how you get everything done exactly as it should be, without giving any orders or directions ; I am always chang- ing my servants, and still never get any to suit me." of the Old World. 107 " Just the very reason why you are always un- settled and uncomfortable," I replied, " I have had almost all my servants for a long time. My head boy has been with me ever since I arrived in the country, and knows all my ways ; the same with my hooka-badar (pipe-bearer), and Abdulla, my horse- keeper. My dressing boy is the grandson of an old native officer, who fought at Assay e and Serin gapatam under Wellesley Bahadoor (the Brave) ; and " Five Minutes" my cook, Chineah, Googooloo, Naga, and sundry other of my retinue, have been with me for years, and will, I think, stop until the end of the chapter. They all required some little teaching and breaking in at first, but now they know what is to be done I have very little trouble with them." " You are somewhat right there," said the Doctor, " and ye certainly have a weel managed household ; but there's mair in it than a' that. Flunkies are somewhat like the brute bastes of the field; they know right well when they are kindly treated, and they are easier led than driven, but from certain strange coincidences, this child is of opinion that there is a third party behind the scenes who rules the roast. Tell me, oh, ye Irregular ! have ye not a pair o' bright eyes, belonging to some gentle Lallbee, Amirbee, or Zenobee, who has taken a kindly interest in the management o' your affairs for the sake o' the master ? or what are ye doing wi' palan- 108 The Hunting Grounds quins and covered carts in a bachelor's establishment, when you belong to a moss-trooping order, ' whose word is snaffle, spur, and spear ' ? Ugh ! ugh ! ugh !' " Spare Hal's blushes, and let us adjourn to the Begum's nautch, for I hear the sound of native music in that direction, and I suppose they are only waiting for our attendance to begin," said W . rising from his chair. of the Old World. 109 CHAPTER VII. THE NAUTCH. The Nautch : its fascinations. Indian dancing-girls. Oriental eyes. Their dress and jewels. Soaping the Begum. Indian jugglers and their tricks. The celebrated mango-tree. The sacrifice to Bovvain. Explanation. The Doctor's wonder. " No treacherous powder bids conjecture quake, No stiff starched stays make meddling fingers ache ; No damsel faints when rather closely pressed, But more caressing seems when most caressed." BYRON. A S we entered the garden or compound round the ** bungalow we found great preparations had been made for the nautch. The verandah was inclosed all round with fine mat tatties or screens, behind which the Begum and her attendants sat, and through which they could see the performance without being exposed to the gaze of the public. In front were placed about a dozen chairs, the centre ones being left vacant for us, and the others occupied by the native officers of the detachment. In the centre of a large circle of troopers, sepoys, camp-followers, villagers, and at- 110 The Hunting Grounds tendants, who were seated in rows, on mats placed on the ground, was stretched a large carpet, round which several huge brass candelabra were placed. Overhead a large red and white chamiana was stretched, shelter- ing the spectators from any dew that might fall ; and in the rear was placed an open tent, containing the musicians, who were about twenty in number. The instruments consisted of sarindas (a kind of guitar), clarionets, several queer-shaped fiddles, cholera horns (trumpets, about five feet long, shaped like an S), hautboys, tomtoms, dubties, dolkies, and drums of every size and shape ; besides small bells, which were used as castanets. Large brass and wooden trays piled with betel-nut, pawn-leaves, mangoes, oranges, figs, plantains, limes, grapes, melons, pomegranates, custard-apples, and every kind of fruit of the country, were scattered all round, besides cakes and sweetmeats, which were served up ad lib. to the spectators. As we entered the music struck up, and the whole company rose and saluted us, remaining standing until we were seated, and the Begum's black aide-de- camp paid us many compliments on the part of his mistress. The tinkling of the bangles and gungroos* was now heard, and about forty handsomely-dressed dancing- * Feet-ornaments, and strings of small bells of various tones worn round the ancles when dancing. of the Old World. 1 1 1 girls entered the circle, and salaamed gracefully to the company. Half-a-dozen of the youngest and prettiest then stepped forward and placed garlands of double jessamine flowers round our necks, at the same time presenting each of us with a lime and a curiously-fashioned bouquet, tied to a short stick of sandal wood. They then deluged us with rose water, and scented us with otto of roses and oil of sandal, and tripped away to the rest of the performers in the centre of the circle. The music, which up to this time had been rather monotonous, now broke forth into that extremely beautiful Persian air, by the immortal Hafiz, " Taza ba Taza, Now ba Now," and each of the fair minstrels, taking up the words of the song one by one, it gradu- ally swelled into a full chorus ; so x in a like manner, one by one they commenced their graceful and volup- tuous measure until all were in movement, and at last their beautiful sylph-like forms seemed to flit before us as in a vision. As I reclined upon the sedan, inhaling the fragrant narcotic from my hookah, which at the same time soothes and exhilarates, and drank in the words of the songs, I felt a strange delightfully ravishing sen- sation stealing gently over my senses, such as I never before experienced ; and as I gazed on the graceful, fawn-like carriage of the exquisite figures, cast in the purest mould of elegance, before me, I thought of the 112 The Hunting Grounds prophet's seventh heaven, and the green-kerchiefed damsels who ever attend " the Faithful ' : in Paradise. Their regular features, soft skins, and full swim- ming eyes glancing through their glossy raven hair, gave them, in my eyes, an interest which the colder beauties of northern climates have never raised. Gentle reader, have you ever visited the land of the sun ? If so, you, too, must have marked that languid, expressive voluptuousness issuing forth from the gazelle-like eyes of her daughters, which you seek for in vain in other less favoured lands. You, too, may have been captivated by some one of the many fair maidens of Hind ; and, perhaps, as you have gazed intensely into the depths of her dark and ever- changing eyes, which, sparkling with their brightness, lovingly refracted back your own, you have felt they spoke a language your heart has well understood ; and perhaps at such a time, as you have gently put away those thick jet-black and glossy tresses from her fair brow, you have whispered softly in her ear, " Mera Jan, tera waste mera dil panee ho gia!" (My life ! on account of you my heart has become water) ; and when her fond, expressive glance has met your gaze, and she has twined her snow-white arms around your neck, you have " ta'en her answer from her murmuring lips," and felt, as you pressed her delicate and yielding form the closer to your bosom, of the Old World. 113 that e'en the much lauded beauty of your own loved though far-distant land was cold and tame compared to hers. But I am wandering, and bygone scenes and happy days passed long ago in those fair lands "flit o'er my mind like blissful summer's dreams," and as my thoughts veer back to days of yore and long-lost friends, I feel those bright recollections stealing vividly back to memory like sunny spots and pleasant oases in my varied life's career. Mais revenons a nos moutons. The ordinary dancing of the kunchnees (or dancing-girls) consists more of different changes of position than any defined step or figure; and in the elegant attitudes and graceful postures with which they advance and retire, the arms, hands, feet, neck, and eyes, moving in uni- son with the music ; and I think they ought rather to be called singing than dancing girls, for it has always appeared to me that their dancing is only a graceful and expletic accompaniment to their songs, which, treating, as they generally do, of love, often assume rather a lascivious character. The interior edges of the eyelids are darkened with "soormah," a prepara- tion of antimony, which heightens their beauty, and gives them a peculiarly fascinating and bewitching appearance. The nautch has charms which possess a powerful and almost irresistible influence on the affections and passions of the inhabitants of the East, and forms the 114 The Hunting Grounds principal recreation and amusement both with high and low. The European stranger who does not understand the language, and is unacquainted with the habits and customs of the country, may look upon a nautch as a monotonous and unmeaning performance ; but to one who can understand and appreciate the beauties of Sadi and Hafiz, it has an inexplicable and alluring charm, and many a live-long night have I passed most delightfully, whilst my regiment was quartered in the Nizam's dominions, in the kiosk (or garden house) of one of my native friends an Emir of Hydrabad, where, lulled by the sounds of gurgling waters and flowing fountains, which cooled the air, deliciously impregnated with the fragrance of groves of roses and jessamines, I have remained until grey dawn broke, listening with rapture to the flowery language of the Persian poets, and gazing on the elf- like forms that flitted before me. The ordinary costume of the Moosulmaunee danc- ing-girls consists of a "choice " or boddice, fitting tight to the form, and cut low in front down the breast, with short sleeves. It is generally made of bright-coloured silk, richly embroidered with gold, and is supposed to answer the purpose of stays, corsets, and all such abominable gear with which European damsels are in the habit of distorting their form into what they call shape, and which must, / fancy (I am not a Benedict), prove a considerable of the Old World. 1 15 obstruction towards their lover's advances ; for clasp- ing one of those stiff, whalebone-sided damsels round the waist must give one nearly the same sensations as embracing a lamp-post or a milestone. The " loonga," similar to the Persian " peshuajh," a richly-embroidered petticoat, is gathered,. round the waist, and seldom falls far below the knee, showing the graceful swell of the leg and beautifully-turned and slender ancles. Oh! ye fair maidens of the North, with what envy would you behold the delicate forms of the daughters of "the Faithful," whose full- flowing garments are confined round their naturally taper waists by a silver or gold zone, of less than eighteen inches in circumference. The "kurtnee," a vest of the finest and most transparent muslin, without sleeves, with the edges richly embroidered, is worn over the " choice," reaching to the waist. Over all is the "sarree," a bright gauze scarf, often of gold or silver thread, which is passed round the waist, having one end thrown gracefully over the shoulder. The hair, which is almost always very long and silky, and of raven black, is worn in the Madonna fashion in front, but gathered up in long plaits be- hind, often falling to the ancles. The edge of the hair from the centre of the fore- head to the back of the head is often adorned with a fringe of seed-pearls, or small gold chains, which hangs parallel to the arch of the eyebrows, and has a I 2 1 1 6 The Hunting Grounds beautiful effect on their clear skin. This ornament is also worn to this day by the Jewish women of Constantinople and Syria, and many of their other jewels are of great antiquity, and resemble those de- scribed by the prophet Isaiah as having belonged to the daughters of Zion ; more particularly " the tinkling ornaments about their feet, and the round tires like the moon, the nose jewels " which latter ornament is called the " boolaq," and is generally a golden crescent, set with rubies, diamonds, or eme- ralds, and worn in the cartilage of the nose, through which a hole is bored, falling to the upper lip with very pretty effect. Round the ancles, heavy massive silver or gold "gungroos" are worn, of curious construction, resem- bling three double curb-chains, to which rows of small fuschia-shaped bells are attached, of different tones, which jingle as they walk, and with which they keep time to the music when they dance. Ear-rings are worn all round the ears, but from the lobes hang beautifully-formed bell-shaped drops, fringed round with seed-pearls. The neck and arms are covered with all kinds of necklaces, bracelets, armlets, bangles, and silver or gold rings, besides numerous charms and amulets, which are supposed to shield the wearer from mis- fortune, and to avert the influence of the Evil Eye. The fingers and even the toes are ornamented with of the Old World. 117 rings, and the nails of both are stained a bright red with " maindee," or the juice of the "henna." During the nautch several curious feats requiring great suppleness of body were performed. For in- stance, a row of girls stood fronting us, standing with their feet about six inches apart, between which was placed a rupee or a needle with the point upright ; they then all bent backwards together, and intro- ducing their hands between their feet, picked up the money with their lips, or the needle with their eye- lids, regaining their standing position without having moved their feet. Various kinds of fruit and sweetmeats were handed round to us, the latter having been expressly prepared for us by the Begum herself, as her factotum informed us. As they were really famous in their way, I broke out in a rhapsody, in which I declared " that the Nawab with the lump on his face was indeed born under a lucky star, and was much to be envied, in spite of the misfortune with which Allah had afflicted him. Was he not to get into his harern the same day a young wife, beautiful as a peri, and a mother-in-law who must have made her studies of the cuisine in heaven! The only thing that astonished me was, that the chobadar or gatekeeper ever allowed her to leave the abode of the blessed." The Begum, her daughter, and female attendants, could hear everything I said, they being seated on 118 The Hunting Grounds the raised verandah just behind our sedan, a fine mat screen preventing them from being seen ; and the old lady took the whole of the compliment to her- self, and warmly reproved her followers for tittering at my speech, assuring them all in a very grave manner, " that the Mogli sirdar (Mogul officer) with the long black beard (meaning myself) was a very respectable man, and knew what was what ; and that when a man was hungry, a group of peris from heaven would be but a poor exchange for one good cook." On hearing this I drew in my breath, gave a deep sigh, and declared " that the gifted woman who was hid from my sight by the cruel screen spoke like a book ; and that, although pretty women were as nu- merous as the hairs of one's beard, yet an observant man might travel from country to country until his hair was white without finding or even hearing of such a paragon of perfection as she whose hospitality we were then enjoying." Just at this moment two jugglers entered the circle, during an interval between the dances ; and one of them placed before him a large earthern jar, over the mouth of which a piece of skin was tightly stretched, so as to form a kind of drum, which he beat with two small sticks, keeping time to a curious monotonous song, in which he exhorted his companion to display the utmost of his talents, so as to amuse the noble of the Old World. 119 gentlemen, if he did not wish to eat dirt and have his face blackened. The other replied that, Fate helping him, he would receive great presents from the truly charitable gentle- men on account of the great feats he would perform ; and, after having beaten his breasts and uttered sundry cabalistic incantations, he rummaged in a bag containing the implements of his profession and produced a queer-shaped doll, which, when touched with his wand, appeared to utter curious squeaks and groans. This he designated Madras Ramasawmy, and he proceeded to inform us that it was by means of his aid that he was going to amuse us, for that he was a great jadoo-wallah (magician). I noticed, however, that, during the course of the performance, he (the doll) received several cuffs if some of the feats of skill did not succeed the first time. The juggler then passed round a common-looking white stone for our inspection, and then gave it to a pretty little dancing-girl who was sitting close to me. She closed her hand on it, and, after he had touched her with his wand, he told her to open it, and it was found full of white sand. He then called a very black musician, and, re- moving his turban, made him sit down near him ; then taking a pinch of the sand, rubbed it down his forehead, leaving a bright yellow mark. A second 120 The Hunting Grounds pinch produced a blue, a third a red, and so on, every pinch producing a different colour. He then told the girl to close her hand, which he again touched with his wand, and the sand was turned into a small live snake, which the little woman threw down with a loud cry, which awoke the Doctor, who had fallen asleep on his chair near me, and caused him to stretch his legs and arms, and rub his eyes for some time before he knew where he was. " Ugh ! ugh ! ugh ! " he exclaimed, starting to his feet with a grunt of amazement, " I must surely ha' been dreaming, for I thought that auld vixen of a bear was after me, and, ugh ! but she was no just a cannie customer, coming tearing and rampaging after a puir body wi' her lug in th' air, an' her jaws open like a bluid- thirsty cannibal, looking for a' the world as if she thought no more o' swallowing ane o' the faculty than a blue pill. Och, the varmint! but what can you expect when one o' the profession goes black- guarding about the country wi' a real gun in the company of the likes o s ye Irregulars ? Ugh ! ugh ! ugh!" " The juggler then caught the snake, and tapping it with his wand appeared to turn it into a stone again, which, after having passed round for examination, he swallowed. Then, stroking his stomach, he made us understand that this hard living did not agree with his constitution, but that, with the proceeds of the ge- of the Old World. 121 nerosity of the sahib log (gentlemen), he hoped to live well in future, and not to be obliged to make such meals as he had done that morning, the nature and quality of which he proceeded to show us ; for, striking his chin with his wand, and opening his mouth, he pro- duced some pounds' weight of pebbles, followed up by a quantity of small shells, then long strings of paper of different colours, and finishing off by ejecting a huge black scorpion all alive, round which he danced, testi- fying his joy, as he proceeded gravely to explain to\ us that this bold reptile having got into his stomach in some water which he had drank from a well on which the Evil Eye had fallen, he had had no peace ever since, as it devoured all the food he put into his stomach, and prevented his appetite ever being satisfied. He now handed round for our inspection a dry mangoe-stone, which he afterwards buried in the ground, muttering imprecations against all evil spirits as he did so, and pouring a little water over the spot, which he assured us came from the blessed Ganges. He then produced a small stone image of the goddess Bowanee,* to which he prayed that he might live to eat of the fruit of the tree of which he had just planted the seed. Immediately afterwards he dug up the stone, and finding it in the same state as * Bowanee or Kalee the Hindoo goddess of destruction, the deity of the Thugs. 122 The Hunting Grounds when he had buried it, pretended to be in a great rage, and commenced abusing the goddess in not very measured terms, revealing certain antecedents to her memory which, if true, did not speak much in favour of the general morality of the Hindoo divinities. His ire even led him to forget common politeness to the sex, for he struck her repeatedly with his wand, but finished off by promising to break cocoa-nuts in her name, provided she assisted him to please the gentlemen ; and after having effected a reconciliation, he again dug up the seed and showed it to us, with little white germs growing out of one end. He again buried it, and recommenced coaxing the image to assist him, promising to sacrifice a cock to her, provided she listened graciously to his prayer, then covering the spot with a basket, to prevent the influence of any evil spirit from interfering with the working of his spell ; in the meantime he showed us some very clever sleight-of-hand tricks with cups and small cloth balls, something like thimble-rig. When this was over he removed the basket and showed us a young mangoe-plant growing, it having put forward the two first leaves ; and at our request he dug it up from the ground and showed us the roots with the stone still adhering to them. This he again planted and covered it over with the basket, after which he showed us some very clever juggling with knives and balls. When he again uncovered the plant it was covered of the Old World. 123 with blossom, which we examined carefully before the basket was replaced. He then showed us a very interesting feat, in which there was really no deception. He made his comrade lie down on his back, and placed on his bare stomach a double betel-leaf; then, taking a sharp sword, he made a ferocious drawing cut, entirely dividing the leaf and making a line on the man's stomach, yet not dividing the skin. He then placed a lime on the palm of a man's hand, and cut it in two with a stroke, so that both halves fell on the ground, making a mark with the edge of the sword on the man's hand, yet not cutting the skin. When this feat was ended he asked the Doctor to remove the basket, and when he did so, lo! and behold, the tree was bending from the weight of five fine mangoes, which were plucked and offered for our inspection. The performance was deservedly much applauded, but the operator was looked upon with much distrust and suspicion by the natives, who imagined he did everything by supernatural agency ; for when I cut the mangoe he presented to me and offered half of it to the little Mussulmannee girl who sat at my feet, she actually shuddered as she put it away from her, begging me in the name of Allah not to eat any of it, as it could not be otherwise than bad, coming from such a source. 124 The Hunting Grounds I however ate it, and found it very good, though I could not persuade any of the natives to taste it. The next trick was also exceedingly good, and merits description. He crouched down before the stone image of the goddess, and, making a most pro- found obeisance, thanked her for the favour he had found in the eyes of the honourable company then as- sembled, and declared himself her most humble votary from that moment; and in confirmation of which solemn vow he declared that he would immediately sacrifice his only daughter, and henceforward devote himself to her service. He told his intentions to a beautiful little girl, about six years old, who was sitting near, and she began to cry and struggle in a most natural manner ; but he seized her, and, after stripping off all her jewels and upper clothing, and loosening her long black hair, which fell over her little naked breast and shoulders, deliberately bound her hands and feet, covering her with a thick black veil. He then swept the ground, on which he sprinkled some of the holy Ganges water, and laying her down covered her with the basket he had used with the mangoe trick, spreading a white cloth over all. He then commenced a prayer to the goddess Bowanee, prostrating himself before the stone image and in- voking its aid, and finished by breaking a cocoa-nut as a sacrifice, and placing the pieces before it. of the Old World. 125 Then breaking out into a long, wild cry, he rolled his eyes, foamed at the mouth like a maniac, and seizing a double-edged sword plunged it into the centre of the cloth, through the basket under which he had placed his child, repeating the stroke twice in different places. Dark streams of blood were seen running from underneath the cloth, the sword being also stained ; and at each blow shrieks and groans appeared to rise from under the basket. For a moment all was still, and every face transfixed with horror at the supposed crime ; loud murmurs were heard among the men, and cries of alarm arose among the females, who rushed wildly about screaming and beating their breasts; then the juggler coolly made an obeisance to the idol, and lifting up the bloody cloth and basket, displayed to the excited spectators only the veil pierced in three places, and the cord with which the child was bound. The child had vanished. All were thunderstruck, and some of the by- standers seized the juggler and threatened him with their vengeance if he did not restore the child he had spirited away by magic. He shook them off, and bowing again to the image, called thrice the name of Chandbee, and the little girl came tripping in from somewhere outside the circle and embraced her father. Our applause was long and loud, and when the little maid went round with the plate, the numerous dona- 126 The Hunting Grounds tions placed upon it announced the satisfaction of all the spectators. The old Doctor, who had been rubbing his eyes and twisting himself uncomfortably in his chair for some time, now burst out into a dolorous grunt, and with a serio-comic expression of countenance ex- claimed, "Ugh! ugh! ugh! Weel! weel! Dinna ye believe in the de'il and a' his works noo, as yere catechism says ? but I reckon that was no a part o' the bringing up o' the likes o' ye. But, oh! dear inon, was it no just a fearfu' sight ? This chiel felt his e'en maist greeting, an' his temples bursting, when the auld heathen streck'd his gullie wi' sic a like thud into his sonsie little bairn as coolly as if he was open- ing a haggis, and she just felt as if she couldna thole it; for brimstane smelt right strong, as the auld bleezin' hornie went down on his marrow-banes to the little ne'er-do-well stane kelpie ; and whilst the carle was in that position this half-scared infant just peeped twice at his nether end so as to mak' sure there was no dark, ill-looking appendage attached or hid in the folds o' his cloth." " It was a magnificent trick," said W , " for though I knew what was to follow, having seen it before, and studiously watched every motion, I have not gained the slightest clue towards finding it out, and I cannot understand it at all." " It was certainly an extraordinary deception/' I of the Old World. 127 replied, " but the mangoe-trick puzzles me most. I have a shrewd suspicion that I know how the child vanished from under the basket, although I must con- fess that I did not see it move ; but do you not re- member that, when he struck the first blow through the cloth and drew out the sword reeking with blood, several women rushed frantically round with shrieks and cries of horror, causing some confusion : well, I imagine that at this time the child must have crept from under the basket, and slipped away concealed under the flowing drapery of a female accomplice. I remember I fancied the outrageous grief of one old Mussulmannee woman was got up for the occasion to divert our attention, for I noticed that, although she was wailing and beating her breasts most vehe- mently, no tears fell, and she raised her hand and put a piece of betel nut and a paun leaf into her mouth, which action impressed me with the idea that she was a confederate, and that her grief was ' all my eye.' ' "It must have been as you say," says Jock, "if Sawbone's friend * Old Hornie ' did not play a part in the performance, which, in my eyes, at first bor- dered on the supernatural, I must confess." The jugglers then withdrew, and the nautch con- tinued until the grey of the morning, when our rising from our seats was the signal for the sports to cease, and the spectators to retire. 12S The Hunting Grounds We, the European officers, having distributed our largess to the dancing-girls, proceeded to a tent close by, where a handsome native supper was served in the Mussulman style of cooking, and here we re- mained chatting and smoking our hookahs until inti- mation was given us that the sun had risen, when each retired to his tent. of the Old World. 129 CHAPTEE VIII. THE DEATH OF THE MAN-EATER. News of the man-eater again. We are once more on his trail. The scent lost. Googooloo gives tongue. It warms. My plan. Preparation. Execution. A ticklish moment. Death of the man-eater. Ceremonies of the Shekarries. A S I was preparing to turn in for an hour or two, "*-^ > my head shekarry, Chineah, came up grinning, and told me that the patel of the village of Botta Sin- garum had sent to say that the tiger had been seen skulking near the outskirts of the village a short time after our return to camp. I immediately sent for the dhoby and Kistimah, and despatched them, with Chineah and the gang with my guns, to the village, to find out all the par- ticulars ; and, having questioned the villager who brought the message rather closely, for I had some doubts as to the truth of the report, I appointed a place of meeting, and after a couple of hours' repose, a bath, and a hurried breakfast, I mounted my nag without disturbing the other officers, who were still sleeping, and joined my people at the Botta Singarum police-station. 130 The Hunting Grounds Without dismounting, I went, guided by a villager, to the place where the tiger had been seen the even- ing before, and there I found unmistakeable signs of his presence, as the pugs were plainly visible. I sent my horse back to the village, and, accom- panied by the gang, followed his track through a narrow ravine densely wooded. Here the trail became exceedingly difficult to follow, as the brute had evidently been walking about backwards and forwards in the bed and along the banks of a dry nullah, and we could not distin- guish his last trail. I caused the band to separate, and for half an hour or so we were wandering about as if in a maze, for the cunning brute had been describing circles, and often, by following the trail, we arrived at the place we started from. Whilst we were all at a loss, suddenly I heard a low " Coo " twice repeated, and I knew that Googoo- loo, who was seldom at fault, was now on warm scent, and from his call I was as certain that the game was a-foot as any master of hounds would have been, while breaking cover, to hear his favourite dog give tongue. The gang closed up, and, guided by the sound, we made our way through thick bush to where Googoo- loo was standing by a pool of water in the bed of the nullan. of the Old World. 131 Here were unmistakeable marks of his having quenched his thirst quite lately, for when we came up the water was still flowing into the deeply-im- printed pugs of his forefeet, which were close to the edge of the pool, and I noticed that the water had still the appearance of having been disturbed and troubled. After having drunk, the brute had made his way to some very thick jungle, much overgrown with creepers, through which we could not follow without the aid of our axes. Thus, stalking with any hope of success was out of the question, so I held a solemn consultation with Kistimah, Chineah, Googooloo, and the dhoby, as to the best means of proceeding. I felt convinced that the brute was still lurking somewhere near at hand in the jungle, for, besides the very recent trail we were on, I fancied I heard the yelling of a swarm of monkeys, which I attri- buted to their having been frightened by his appear- ance ; besides, this was just the kind of place that a tiger would be likely to remain in during the heat of the day, as it afforded cool shade from the sun, and water. All the gang were of my opinion, and Kistimah observed that, on two different occasions, after a post- runner had been carried off, he had remarked that the trail of the tiger led from this part of the jungle to K 2 132 The Hunting Grounds a bend in the road, where he had been known fre- quently to lay in wait for his prey. "These man-eaters," added he, "are great devils, and very cunning, and I should not at all wonder if even now he was watching us from some dark thicket." As he said this I carefully examined the caps of my rifle, and I observed some of the gang close up with a strange shudder, for this brute had inspired them all with a wholesome fear, and prevented their straggling. Two or three spoke almost in whispers, as if they were afraid of his really being sufficiently near to hear them conspiring for his destruction. At length Kistimah said that he had been thinking of a plan which, though dangerous in the execution, might be attended with success. It was for me to go, with a man dressed as a runner, down the main road at sunset, being the time the tiger generally carried off his victims, and to run the chance of getting a shot. At this proposition sundry interjectional expres- sions, such as "Abah!" "Arrez!" "Toba!" "Toba!" escaped from the lips of the bystanders, and, from sundry shaking of heads and other un- mistakeable signs, I could see that it had not found much favour in their eyes. Chineah, the dhoby, and one or two of the gang, however, approved of the plan, and Kistimah offered to accompany me as the post runner. of the Old World. 133 This, however, I objected to, for I thought that I should have a better chance of meeting the tiger if I went alone than in company ; besides, I preferred having only myself to look after. The plan of action once settled, I returned to the village and obtained from the patel the bamboo on which the tappal- runners sling the mail-bags over their shoulders. To the end of this is an iron ring with a number of small pieces of metal attached, making a jingling noise as the man runs, which gives warning of the coming of the post to any crowd that might be ob- structing the path, allowing them time to get out of his way. Having broken off the ring, I fastened it to my belt, so as to allow it to jingle as I walked ; and, arming myself with a short double rifle by Westley Richards, a brace of pistols, and a huge shekar knife, I made Kistimah lead the way down the road towards the place where the man-eater was said to lurk. About a mile from the village I made the gang and the villagers who accompanied me halt, and went on with Kistimah, Chineah, and Googooloo to recon- noitre the ground. The road was intersected by a narrow valley or ravine, along the bottom of which was a dry, sandy watercourse, the banks of which were overgrown with high rank grass and reeds, intermixed with low scrubby thorn-bushes. To the left was a low, rocky 134 The Hunting Grounds hill, in some places bare and in others covered with thick jungle, with wild date or custard-apple clumps here and there. Kistimah pointed me out a clump of rather thick jungle to the right of the road, where, he said, the tiger often lurked whilst on the look-out for his prey, and here we saw two or three old trails. He also showed me a rock from behind which the brute had sprung on a post-runner some weeks before, but we saw no signs of his having been there lately. It was, however, quite what an Indian sportsman would have termed "a tigerish spot," for bold scarped rocks and naked fantastic peaks rose in every direc- tion from amongst the dense foliage of the surround- ing jungle. Here and there noble forest-trees towered like giant patriarchs above the lower verdure of every shade and colour. Not a breath of air was stirring, nor a leaf mov- ing; and as the sun was still high up, without a cloud to be seen to intercept his rays, the heat was most oppressive, and respiration even was becoming difficult, on account of a peculiar closeness arising from the decayed vegetation underfoot, and the over- powering perfume of the blossoms of certain jungle plants. After having reconnoitred the country I felt rather overcome with lassitude, and returned to the rest of the gang, whom I found sleeping in a clump of of the Old World. 135 deep jungle, a little off the roadside. Here I laid down to rest, protected from the piercing rays of the sun by the shade of a beautiful natural bower formed by two trees, which were bent down with the weight of an immense mass of various kinds of parasitical plants, in addition to their own foliage. The mournful silence and strange stillness that reigned was only broken at times by the distant scream of peafowl, or the shrill crowing of a jungle- cock, who, unsuspicious of our presence, was scratch- ing up the ground and clacking to his hens in an adjoining thicket. The shrill and peculiarly wild notes of these birds seem as if they were ordained by Nature to accord with the calm, still solitude and sublime grandeur of scenery of "the deep jungle." They inhabit that deep jungle of which Ferishta says truly, " that death dwells in the water, and poison in the breeze ; where the grass is tough as the teeth of serpents, and the air fetid as the breath of dragons." For so it is : the deadliest fevers lurk in these places most beautiful to the eye, the air being poisoned and impregnated by the exhalations of decayed leaves and other decomposed vegetable matter. I must have slept several hours, for when I awoke I found the sun sinking low in the horizon ; how ever, I got up considerably refreshed for my nap, and, giving myself a shake, prepared for the task I had undertaken. 136 The Hunting Grounds I carefully examined my arms, and, having ascer- tained that nothing had been seen by any of my gang, some of whom had kept a look-out, I told my people to listen for the sound of my gun, which, if they heard, they might come up, otherwise that they were to remain quiet until my return. I ordered Chineah, Kistimah, Googooloo, and the dhoby to accompany me down the road with spare guns, in case I might want them, and when I arrived at a spot which commanded a view of the ravine I sent them to climb different trees. Kistimah begged hard to be allowed to accom- pany me, as he said this tiger never attacked a man in front but always from behind; but I would not permit him, as I thought that two people would per- haps scare the animal, and his footsteps might pre- vent me from hearing any sound intimating his approach. The sun had almost set as I proceeded slowly down the road, and, although I was perfectly cool and as steady as possible, I felt cold drops of perspira- tion start from my forehead as I approached the spot where so many victims had been sacrificed. I passed the rock, keeping well on the look-out, listening care- fully for the slightest sound, and I remember feeling considerably annoyed by the chirping made by a couple of little bulbuls (Indian nightingales), that were fighting in a bush close to the roadside. Par- of the Old World. 137 tridgeswere calling loudly all around, and as I passed the watercourse I saw a jackal skulking along its bed. I stopped, shook my jingling affair, and listened several times as I went along, but to no purpose. Whilst ascending the opposite side of the ravine I heard a slight noise like the crackling of a dry leaf: I paused, and turning to the left fronted the spot from whence I thought the noise proceeded. I distinctly saw a movement or waving in the high grass, as if something was making its way towards me : then I heard a loud purring sound, and saw something twitching backwards and forwards behind a clump of low bush and long grass, about eight or ten paces from me, and a little in the rear. It was a ticklish moment, but I felt prepared. I stepped back a couple of paces, in order to get a better view, which action probably saved my life, for immediately the brute sprang into the middle of the road, alighting about six feet from the place where I was standing. I fired a hurried shot ere he could gather himself up for another spring, and when the smoke cleared away I saw him rolling over and over in the dusty road, writhing in his death agony, for my shot had entered the neck and gone downwards into his chest. I stepped on one side and gave him my second barrel behind the ear, when dark blood rushed from his nostrils, a slight tremor passed over all his limbs, 138 The Hunting Grounds and all was still. The man-eater was dead, and his victims avenged. My gang, attracted by the sound of my shots, came rushing up almost breathless, and long and loud were the rejoicings when the tiger was recognised by Kistimah as the cunning man-eater who had been the scourge of the surrounding country for months. He was covered with mange, and had but little hair left on his skin, which was of a reddish brown colour, and not worth taking. I made Chineah cut off the right paw with his axe, and sent a post-runner into camp with it to announce my success. A bullock- cart was then fetched from the village, on which the carcass was with much difficulty hoisted, and dragged off in triumph by the villagers, for the bullocks were so frightened by his smell that they would not allow themselves to be harnessed to the cart ; all force and coaxing being in vain to get them sufficiently near to place the yokes on their necks. All the villagers turned out to witness our entry, poojahs (religious ceremonies) were performed, sheep and cocks sacrificed, and prayers offered up to sundry Sawmies (Hindoo gods) in my name. I was the centre of attraction of all the young girls of the village, whose dark sparkling eyes flashed kindly on me as they stood waving their hands on either side of the road. As for the old women, I really had some difficulty to get out of their clutches; they of the Old World. 139 kissed the hem of my old green baize shooting-coat, cracked their knuckles over my forehead for luck, stroked my face and beard, patted me on the back, and at last became so vehement in their attentions that I had to beg of my gang to keep them off. All the men in the village turned out with torches and firesticks to escort me home to camp. Rockets and fireworks were burnt, matchlocks discharged, and tomtoms, dubties, and cholera horns poured forth their notes of triumph before the dead tiger, whose head was carried in the front on a spear. My gang marched at the head of the procession, and five ancient dancing- girls from the village were pirouetting before the cart, howling and yelling as they whirled on the " light fantastic," in such a manner that they reminded one strongly of the witch scene in Macbeth. The whole camp turned out to view the carcass of the man-eater, and many were the congratulations I received from all parties that evening. I gave a few sheep and fowls to my gang, with some rackee, and throughout the night " there was a sound of revelry." The next day the mutilated carcass was paraded on a cart in all the neighbouring villages by Kistimah and the dhoby, who, by levying contributions either in coin or kind, realised a little fortune for themselves. I have killed many tigers both before and since, 140 The Hunting Grounds but I never met with such a determined enemy to mankind, for he was supposed to have carried off more than a hundred individuals. He fully exem- plified an old Indian saying, " That when a tiger has once tasted human blood he will never follow other game, men proving an easier prey." On the spot where the tiger was killed a large mausoleum now stands, caused by the passers-by each throwing a stone until a large heap is formed. Since that day many a traveller who has passed that way has been entertained by the old pensioned sepoy who is in charge of the public bungalow, with a long account of the death of the celebrated Admee Khanna-wallah (Man-eater), and old friends have told me that many anxious and kind inquiries have been made as to the health and welfare of the black-bearded cavalry officer who slew him. of the Old World. 141 SECTION II. SOUTHERN INDIA. CHAPTER IX. TRICHINOPOLY. Trichinopoly. The evil influence of caste in India. The return of Chineah, and our prospects of sport. My shooting-cart and battery described. Preparations for a start. WAS quartered for some time at Trichinopoly, - one of the dullest of our military stations in Southern India, which city certain learned authorities aver has only a single sheet of brown paper between it and the infernal regions. Every Anglo-Indian will tell you that it is famous for three things viz., mag- nificent snipe-shooting, unrivalled cheroots, and deli- cate and exquisitely wrought gold-chains. Trichy (short for Trichinopoly), like most other Indian cities, possesses a stone citadel, formerly an old pagoda, built on an almost inaccessible rock, which rises isolated out of the plain and commands the neighbouring country. This is surrounded by a pettah or native town, fortified by double bas- tioned walls of solid masonry, a deep ditch (which 142 The Hunting Grounds can be filled from the Cauvery, that flows at a short distance from the northern face), a covert- way and glacis. This place was the scene of some severe fighting in the year 1753, when the French attempted to assault the place by surprise without success. Within the walls are the ruins of a hand- some palace, which was formerly the habitation of Ameer al Oomra, also several Mussulman mosques, and Hindoo pagodas, dedicated to divers Sawmies (images) of uncouth appearance and very question- able character, if we are to believe the history of their lives, which is generally carved on the exterior of their temples. The mainguard, commanded bv an European officer, is in one of the principal gate- ways of the fort, which also contains an arsenal (formerly an old pagoda), barracks, magazines, store- houses, and a well-stocked bazaar, in which every- thing may be bought, from a handspike to an elephant. Outside of the walls are extensive suburbs, and at a short distance is the military cantonment, where are quartered an European regiment of foot, either of Her Majesty's or the East India Company's service ; a regiment of Native Light Cavalry, some Artillery, and three battalions of Native Infantry. Trichinopoly is situated on the south bank of the river Cauvery, and is considered a holy city by the Hindoos, being to the Madras Presidency what Benares is to the Bengal. Almost opposite the town, upon an island formed by the division of the stream, of the Old World. 143 is the celebrated temple of Seringam, the outside wall of which contains an area of more than a mile square. It is the very hotbed of Brahminism, and here con- gregate from all parts of the south of India those fat, lazy, greasy cumberers of the earth, who live upon clover, by the sweat of other men's brows, and thrive and grow rich upon the offerings which they wring from poor deluded Hindoo pilgrims by working upon their credulity and superstitious fears. It was in the latter end of the month of April, and our old stagers declared they had never felt anything like the heat. We were all nearly baked, and, as old Paddy S , of the th, used to say, " looked like carefully dried resuscitated mummies ;" for our faces were burnt almost coffee-colour from constant exposure to the sun whilst out snipe- shooting. I felt thoroughly disgusted and worn out with the changeless monotony of an Indian garrison life, and was heartily sick of parades, drills, guard-mountings, inspections, courts-martial, courts of inquest, inquiry, request, committees, meetings, and boards of every kind. Mainguard and regimental duty seemed to come round oftener than usual, and nothing was stirring except the mosquitos, which are one of the plagues of India, and those of Trichy are celebrated as gal ley nippers. I was sitting, after dinner one evening, in the verandah of the mess-house, conversing with three or 144 The Hunting Grounds four of my brother officers, listening to the regimental band, and cogitating upon the vapid life I was lead- ing, when suddenly my chochra (a young Mussulman lad, whose office it was to assist me to dress and wait at table) rushed up with frantic haste, exclaim- ing, "Sahib, sahib, Chineah iya hy!" (Sir, sir, Chineah has come !) Now Chineah was my head shekarry or huntsman, who had been out on a reconnoitring expedition after large game, and a great man in my establishment. " Let us have him in at once," said B , " and hear where he has been, and what shekar-khubber (hunting news) he has brought." So Chineah was sent for, and in a few minutes was salaaming before us. " Well, Chineah," said I, " what great news have you brought, that you have been away so long ? From not having heard from you, I have been expecting you back every day for the last fortnight, and at last began to imagine that some accident had happened, for three or four of your women came up to me declaring that they had heard in the bazaar that you had been eaten by a tiger." " Women no good, master," answered he, " tell plenty lies, go too much to the bazaar; plenty, plenty talking, never do any work. I go away nearly two months, then come home, find no cloth in go-down,* no rice, no nuffiri. To-morrow * Go-downservants' quarters, generally out-offices. of the Old World. 145 make plenty bobbery (noise), plenty floggee. Ah, sahib ! karree log kuch fida na (Ah, sir ! women-kind are of no good)." " Never mind them," replied I, "let us hear what news of game you have brought, for B sahib and I are going out on a shekar trip in the course of a few days, and we want to hear what our chances are." " Well, sahib, master knows very well I went to Putchee Mullah and Koolee Mullah Hills, where I only see a few chetel (spotted deer), so I went on to Salem, and on the sides of the Sheveroy Hills I saw some sambur, chetel, arid old trail of jungle bice (bison). I stop at Mulliarry village, five, six days, and there I meet one man, Naga, very good shekarry, so I bring with me ; suppose master want other shekar man. This man tell me that there plenty shekar got in Bowani Jungle, so I go there with him, and all over the Combei Jungle, where I see plenty janwars (wild beasts). There got tigers, panthers, bears, bison, elk, spotted deer, and ante- lopes, and near the Hassan oor Pass I saw plenty old marks of elephant and some neilghau (literally blue cow). Suppose master go to Bowani, get plenty good shekar. Naga knows that jungle very well ; and I tell all Mulcher men (a jungle tribe) that master coming soon ; and suppose master get plenty shooting, Mulcher men get plenty, plenty bucksheesh (presents)." 146 The Hunting Grounds " Well, Chineah," said I, " you have done your work very well, and in the course of a few days, Inshallah (please God), we shall try our luck in that part of the country. Now go to Yacoob-Khan, and tell him to give you a gold mohur (about 30s.) for yourself and the gang to make merry with, but take care none of you get into trouble ; for if any of you find your way into choJcee (quod) and are brought up before the gora sahib (white gentleman, a name often given to the European magistrate), I shall ask him not to fine you, but to take the change out of your backs." " Me nebber want to see that gentleman till me goes to ' Jehanum/* " exclaimed Chineah, as he with- drew, grinning and showing his teeth " him no good." ' Well, B ," said I, " I do not think we can do better than try the Bowani Jungle, for I anticipate good sport from Chineah's account of the country, which you may rely upon is correct, as he has been with me a long time, and I have never yet found him deceive me. I shall go at once to H , and ask him to forward my application for two months leave of absence, and I will then ask the general to give me permission to start at once in anticipation of leave from army head-quarters." I found Major H , who was then commanding the regiment, in conversation with old S of the Commissariat, and he consented at once to forward * Jehanum " the infernal regions." of the OWL World. 147 my application, at the same time telling me that he had no doubt but that it would be granted. The next three days were devoted to preparations for my sporting campaign, which I shall describe for the benefit of the uninitiated. I had constructed, according to my own plan and fancy, what I should advise every Indian sportsman to possess that is, a very comfortable teak-wood bullock-cart, on springs, and fitted up for travelling. Mine was seven feet long by four broad, and con- tained three large watertight boxes or compartments, to hold my kit and comestibles en route, with a fourth, copper-lined and fitted with a screw-top, which fastened with a lock, for my ammunition, besides a rack for eight guns. The wooden sides were about two feet and a half in height, and from them sprang six bamboo hoops, on which the white painted canvas top was extended ; the whole of which gear was moveable, and could be cleared away at a moment's notice. The bottom of the cart was slightly bevelled off round, caulked and sheathed with copper, so that, by taking out the linchpins and putting the wheels into the cart, my trap served me as a boat to transfer myself and goods across rivers otherwise impassable. When in cantonment I took out the pole and bullock-yoke, and fitted in a pair of shafts ; and although it was not a very light vehicle, an old Australian mare I had used to trot along with it with great ease. The whole L 2 148 The Hunting Grounds length of the bottom of the cart was fitted with a hair mattress, and the sides were well padded, so that I managed, when travelling, to get along pretty com- fortably. With posted bullocks I could generally average about four miles an hour ; and, as I halted only during the heat of the day, I managed to get over the ground pretty quickly for India. My battery, on which I prided myself very much, consisted of a brace of ten-gauge rifles by Purdey ; a double rifle and two smooth-bores eight-gauge, by Westley Richards; a double rifle by Burrows of Preston ; two fowling-pieces, sixteen-bore ; a Purday and a long Joe Manton, both clipping shot-guns ; a long four-bore duck-gun by Fullard (after a single discharge of which I have picked up seventeen duck and teal) ; and a German pea-rifle. A large Yankee backwoodsman's axe, a couple of bill-hooks, an adze, arid other tools, were fitted against the side of my cart, so as to be ready at hand in case of a break-down, which is an event of frequent occur- rence in Indian travelling. An obstreperous bullock or a careless driver is very liable to smash a pole or a yoke en route; and, in many parts of the country where game abounds, village smiths are difficult to be met with, and I have often been saved hours, and even days' delay, by having the means of repairing them at hand. of the Old World. 149 A well-supplied medicine-chest, in which the quinine bottle loomed very large, was carefully stowed away in one of the compartments a very necessary pre- caution in a country where disease makes such rapid progress. Besides having often found this chest ex- tremely useful, the mere fact of having it with me in- spired my people with confidence, and overcame their fear of the malaria of the dense jungle. My supplies consisted chiefly of tea, coffee, sugar, spices, curry stuff, brandy, tobacco, biscuits, and kiln- dried flour (country flour will not keep). As bread soon gets dry and spoils in a hot climate, I used to prepare a kind of rusk for travelling, by cutting up loaves in small pieces, and having them baked until they became of a light brown colour. Prepared in this way, if they are carefully kept in tin cases, they remain fresh and palatable for many weeks, and are a great improvement upon Indian biscuits for breakfast. My boy was very clever in preparing chapaties or hoppers, which are a kind of girdle-cake baked on an iron plate, and generally made of rice-flour. The materials being always to be procured, even in the smallest village, these cakes are much used in India as a substitute for bread. My time for three days was occupied in preparing for the trip, hiring coolies, and superintending the casting of bullets for my different guns. In case of meeting with elephants I had some brass bullets 150 TJie Hunting Grounds cast, besides others, which I now infinitely prefer, made of a mixture of lead and zinc. Bullets of this material are much heavier than if they were made of brass, and are sufficiently hard for any purpose. I generally put in one-third of zinc to two of lead ; and often, when I could not get zinc, I have used tin in the same proportion, which I found equally good. For my large smooth-bores I used round balls, and generally put a couple in my second barrel ; for, although I have frequently heard people animadvert upon this practice as dangerous, I never found any evil effects resulting from it : nor are the guns shaken, although I have used them upwards of a dozen years, generally firing from four to five drachms of powder. For close shooting (when I have a gun by a maker whom I can depend upon) I prefer to have a brace of balls in my second barrel ; and although I do not advo- cate this as a principle, I have found it more effectual in stopping the charge of an infuriated wounded animal. I may, however, observe that I go to a good gun- maker, pay a fair price, and see that I get a first-class article for my money. I have always found it cheaper in the end to have a first-class arm, and I think that success in the field often depends upon the degree of confidence which is placed in the guns. Having given some account of my shooting-cart and battery, I shall go on to describe the rest of my equipment, as perhaps a few wrinkles on the proper of the Old World. 151 dress for a sportsman might be useful to young hands. The first great rule to be observed is to have all your dress as nearly as possible of the same colour as the general aspect of the country you are going to shoot over. Thus, when you are deerstalking or tracking large game in woods before the leaf has fallen, green is the best colour; when the trees are bare, dark brown, the colour of the trunk and branches; are you after antelope on the plain or ibex among the rocks, drab is the best colour. Should you be waging war against the grisly bear or ibex in the snow, you would be able to get much nearer to your game unobserved if you, as I have done, wore a shirt outside. Even in duck-shooting on the coast of England, in winter, you stand a much better chance of making a heavy bag if you follow this plan of dressing. The second rule is, having all your clothes made to fit well. The most convenient costume for large- game shooting is a long jacket, reaching a little over the hips, with pockets outside, and sleeves like a shirt, fastening at the wrist with a couple of buttons. It should be loosely made, so as to allow the greatest ease and freedom to the limbs. A long waistcoat, with pockets, and breeches fitting loosely over the knee but rather tightly over the calf. The gaiters, which I like to fasten with leather 152 The Hunting Grounds buttons down the outside, should fit tightly to the leg and well over the boots. The best material to have them made from is corduroy, fustian, or moleskin, when you cannot get properly dressed deerskin. I always found laced-up ankle-boots of deerskin the most comfortable wear for hard fagging, and I prefer substantial single soles, double ones being too heavy to run in. A leather hunting-cap is the best protection to the head for large-game shooting in the jungles of India, and I prefer to have peaks both before and behind, as the one saves the eyes and face from thorns, and the other prevents anything from falling down the back of your neck. In jungles where the tree-leech abounds this is a great consideration, for those animals often drop from the branches as you shake them in passing and alight upon your person, when they seem all to make for the back of your neck by instinct. When in such jungles it is abso- lutely necessary to wear leech-gaiters, or long closely- woven cotton stockings, over your socks (which should be of lambswool), under your boots and gaiters and over your breeches, as far as they will go. Even with this safeguard I have sometimes found my boots and stockings drenched with blood in the evening, though I could not ascertain how they got in. I found velveteen, corduroy, or moleskin, the of the Old World. 153 most comfortable for wear whilst out after large game, and I had entire suits made of different colours, so as to suit the ground I was going to shoot over. Eound my waist I always wore a stout, broad leather-belt, with an iron ring substantially fastened at the back, to which I could fasten a strong silk cord. This I found of great use as a safeguard in case of having to descend any steep slope or narrow ledge of rock when in the pursuit of game. In my belt I carried a small double-barrelled pistol (a revolver would have been preferable), a double field-glass, a small pouch for ammunition, a leather case containing flint, steel, and tinder, and a straight double-edged hunting-knife, which, with the glass and pistol, had small rings attached, so as to enable me to fasten them by thin cords to my belt, to prevent their being lost. In my pocket I carried a pricker, a nipple wrench, turnscrew, spare nipples, and a little instrument for filling the nipples with fresh powder. Chineah, my head shekarry, carried a telescope, by Dollond, and a brandy flask slung over his shoulders, a shekar knife, and small axe in his belt, and my favourite rifle, with its ammunition. Besides which, he always managed to stow away for me a pair of clean socks, which I found a great luxury after a severe fag. 154 The Hunting Grounds Googooloo, who was my best tracker, always kept at my heels, with my second gun, and carried in his belt a knife, a bill-hook for cutting the way through thick jungle, and a few rounds of ammunition. Mootoo (short for Choury Moottoo), Veerapah, Narinah, and Rungasawmy, trackers, each carried a spare gun with its ammunition, and a knife with a saw, bill-hook, or axe in his belt. Ramasawmy (a preparer of skins) carried a large backwoodsman's axe, as well as the implements of his profession, and Perriatunibee, who usually went by the abbreviation of " the Gooroo," on account of his having some pretensions to priestcraft, carried a large leather " mushuk " or skin containing water. To Naga, the Mulliarry whom Chineah had en- listed in his late reconnaissance, I entrusted a gun, and furnished him with the bill-hook and short spear, with which weapons all my people were armed, as they served not only as a protection, in case any of them were detached, but also as a kind of badge which showed they belonged to the shekar gang. Besides my own regular shekarries, I engaged four coolies to carry my traps through jungle-paths where carts or ponies could not go. I had given orders to my head servant to see that every man was provided with a new pair of " chup- ples" or sandals, a dark "langooty " or waist-cloth, and a " combley jule" or country blanket, made of of the Old World. 155 coarse wool, as I could not afford to have any of them laid up with sore feet or illness ; and the day before they were to start I had an inspection parade, at which each man appeared in his new tog, equipped for the road. B did the same with his followers, and we had our tents pitched, our horses and dogs picketed, and our coolies, baggage-ponies, and bullocks ex- amined, so that we might be certain that nothing requisite was left behind, and everything in order. We had a large double tent for ourselves, whilst en route, fitted with cuscus-grass tatties, a hill-tent and a bachoba (a tent without pole) for jungle work, two bell-tents for our people, and a large "shamiana* or canvas screen, to sling between trees or fasten on poles, so as to shelter our horses from the intense heat of the midday sun. My stud consisted of two Arabs (first-rate horses for cross country after hog), " Gooty," a Mahratta shooting-pony, who could do everything but speak, and an Australian mare, which I generally rode on the march, and sometimes, when the road was good, drove in the cart. B had two horses and two ponies, and we had besides hired four baggage-tattoos and four carriage-bullocks for our tents and baggage. My servants, who were almost all Mussulmen, consisted of Yacoob Khan, my head man, "Five Minutes," my cook, Hassan, a hooka-badar, Cassim 156 The Hunting Grounds Bey, and Lall Khan, two youngsters who waited at table and helped me to dress, a waterman, a tent- Lascar, four "syces" or grooms, four grass-cutters, two dog-boys, and two soldiers, who, in cantonment, were supposed to keep my regimentals in order, but when on a shekar expedition made themselves gener- ally useful. B 's followers numbered more than a dozen, so that altogether the gang, our servants, coolies, and camp-followers amounted to about forty indi- viduals. They all paraded in marching trim, to receive a small advance of pay to be left with their families, and I gave them a trifle to be expended in making caste ceremonies, and offering Poojahs to their favourite deities, so that each might propitiate his Sawmy for good luck on the expedition. The Gooroo rendered himself very conspicuous by killing a sheep in front on an image of Cajasoura- mardanam (the god of Hunting) who is represented with four arms, having a lance in two hands and curious reptiles in the others, clad in a tiger's skin, and seated upon that of an elephant. of the Old World. 157 CHAPTER X. THE SHEVEROYS. Departure of the gang. Our start. The journey. Salem. The Sheveroy hills, and our reception. Anglo-Indian hospi- tality. Claret cup. News of bison and bears. Googooloo on trail. We follow. A bull-bison lost. The news of bears confirmed. Their habits described. A LL were in good spirits, and it would have been 4^- a curious sight for a stranger from Europe to have witnessed the departure of our party as they filed through the gateway in front of my bungalow, singing an extemporary song descriptive of the great sporting feats they were going to perform. First came our eight horses in their head-stalls and jules (stable-clothing), with their saddles loosely girthed, each led by his respective syce or groom and followed by the grasscutter, who carried the head and heel ropes, gram (a kind of bean), and cooking- pots, &c. Then came my two dog-boys, one with a couple of Anglo-Persian greyhounds, and ' the other with four huge creatures of the Poligar breed, famous animals to lay after a wounded deer, or to 158 The Hunting Grounds bring a bear or hog to bay. These were followed by the gang, with Chineah at their head, each carrying a gun or rifle and short spear, and numbering with B 's followers close upon a dozen strong and wiry fellows, fit for any kind of work. Baggage-ponies, bullocks, and coolies, laden with tents, boxes, &c., with a troop of servants and hangers-on, brought up the rear. Our people were all going on three marches in ad- vance to the village of Totteyum (about thirty-five miles from Trichy, on the Salem road), where they were to await our arrival, as, our leave not having yet appeared in orders, we were unable to quit can- tonments until the next day. The police authorities had been previously warned to have carriage-bullocks posted for us every five or six miles, as we deter- mined to lose no time on the road. The next day being the 1st of May, we attended a muster parade, and, after paying a few visits P. P. C. to the ladies of our acquaintance, and bidding adieu to some " of the kindliest men who ever drew sword," at about 3 P.M. we attired ourselves in the light and airy cos- tume of muslin shirts, silk long-drawers, and slippers, and stepping into my cart, in a few moments we were rolling along at the rate of five or six miles an hour on the northern road leading to Salem. For some time we amused ourselves by chaffing and poking fun at the wayfarers, particularly with some pilgrims who were carrying two encased chatties of the Old World. 159 (earthen pots) of Ganges water,* which we taxed them with having taken from some tank on the road, and which at last they avowed. When it grew dark we lighted our lamp, and chess and Icarte served to pass away the time until we grew sleepy, when we rolled ourselves in the coverlids, and were soon in the arms of Morpheus. About 2 A.M. we were awoke by the flashing of torches and the sound of voices, and found our- selves halted in front of the Travellers' Bungalow at Totteyum, surrounded by our people, who had arrived the evening before. After hastily swallowing a cup of coffee, and lighting cheroots, fresh bullocks were yoked, and we were soon again en route, surrounded by the gang, our tents and baggage having gone on before. At about 8 A.M. we arrived at the Travellers' Bun- galow of Namkul (distance twenty miles), where we found our servants, a bath, and breakfast awaiting us. After having arranged these preliminaries to our satis- faction, we strolled out with our guns, shot a few teal and snipe under the bund or embankment of a tank, and visited a fine old hill-fort, which is close to the town, and which was built by the inhabitants in former years as a refuge against the Mahratta hordes and other predatory bands which then ravaged the country. * The water of the Ganges, being considered holy, is much used by the Hindoos in the performance of their " caste ceremo- nies," and is an article of commerce in the south of India. 160 The Hunting Grounds As our people had not yet got quite into marching trim, we slept at Namkul, starting the next morning for Moonoo-Choudy, distance fifteen miles, where we remained during the heat of the day, going on in the cool of the evening to Malloor, distance eleven miles, in which place we passed the night, and rode into Salem the following morning, putting up with Captain S , who was commanding the detachment of native veterans which garrisoned the station. After breakfast we visited the shop of the celebrated Arnatchellum, whose well-balanced boar-spears, axes, and hunting-knives are renowned throughout India for the temper of the steel and the superior finish of the workmanship. He charges European prices for everything, and I found him as overreaching a rogue as any other nigger. Salem, though a large and densely-populated town, possesses very few attractions, and as the weather was fearfully hot, and cholera was carrying off great numbers of natives daily, I did not care about ex- posing my people to it more than necessary, so I sent them off at once with the baggage to Bowani, there to await our arrival. I kept "Five Minutes," Googooloo, a couple of servants, and the pony with me, together with one of B 's horses and the cart, and directed Chineah and the rest of the gang to try and gain all the informa- tion they could about the country round about Bowani. of the Old World. 161 As soon as we had seen them en route we made preparations for ascending the Sheveroy Hills, which rise from the plains about five miles to the northward of the town of Salem, and are about six thousand feet above the level of the sea. The magistrates, judges, and collectors reside here during the greater part of the year, and we were fortunate enough to be able to engage a furnished bungalow belonging to Mr. B , a coffee-planter, where we resolved to stay for a few days, as B had been ailing, on account of the excessive heat. A short time before sunset we began to ascend the ghaut (pass), by a rather steep winding road cut through the jungle, so that it was almost dark by the time we got to the top. The air was delightfully cool, and we appeared to inhale quite a different atmosphere to that we had lately left in the low country. We found a very comfortable bungalow prepared for us, and, being rather tired, we turned in early, and enjoyed a most refreshing night's rest, the first we had had for some time, . as in the very hot weather, unless the "punkah" (fan) is kept going over the bed unceasingly, but little sleep is obtainable one tosses about from side to side all night, and gets up in the morning exhausted, and overcome with lassitude and languor. I rose quite a new man the next morning, and, finding B still asleep, strolled out into the garden M 162 The Hunting Grounds to enjoy the fresh air, which was mild and cool, as on a May-day in England. The cottage we occupied is built on a little hill or knoll, and surrounded by beautifully-kept coffee- plantations. The sides and roof were literally covered with odoriferous creepers, among which I noticed the woodbine, honeysuckle, -jessamine, passion- flower, and a tall climbing fuchsia with very large scarlet bloom. Flowers which I never saw in the low country appeared to grow indigenous. I noticed the primroses, violets, and crocus in the parterres round the house, besides lilies, roses, and geraniums, of all kinds and colours. The kitchen-garden was full of European vegetables, and the cabbages, cauli- flowers, turnips, carrots, lettuces, peas, artichokes, radishes, and mustard and cress forcibly recalled to mind my boyhood's home in Old England. B joined me in the garden, and we were engaged in gathering the .materials for a salad for breakfast (which in India is considered a great luxury), when we heard the clattering of horses' hoofs on the road, and almost immediately two coffee- planters, D- and B , rode up to the cottage- door and introduced themselves. In no part of the world, and I have travelled over a good deal of it, have I met with that free courtesy and affable urbanity which is invariably to be found among the British residents in India. A stranger of the Old World. 163 passing through the country meets with the most generous and openhanded hospitality wherever he goes, and the supposed characteristics of an English- man " stiffness and cold hauteur of manner " are rarely to be met with in the East. On the arrival of a stranger at an up-country station, it is the custom for all the residents (whatever may be their rank) to call upon him ; hence arises that kind and friendly intercourse which exists everywhere in Anglo- Indian society, and is rarely to be met with else- where. " We heard you had come up," said D , a fine specimen of an open-hearted, good-tempered Englishman, " and not knowing whether you had thought of laying in a supply of provisions from the low country, as you can procure nothing here, I have taken the liberty of bringing you half a sheep of my own breeding, a few fattened fowls and ducks, some eggs and cream, a leash of hares, and a few brace of partridges, which ought to eat tender, as they were killed nearly a week ago." " Thanks, old fellow !" said B . They will indeed prove a treat, for we have been obliged to eat mutton and fowls almost immediately after they have been killed, lately, as nothing will keep throughout the day in the low country this weather. Here, Harry, do you concoct for us one of your insinuating ' claret cups/ whilst I see ' Five Minutes ' about M 2 164 The Hunting Grounds the breakfast, for I think we shall be six, as I expect K the collector, and the sub-judge, their horse- keepers having already arrived." Whilst he was speaking they rode up, and in a few moments we were all sitting in the % porch discussing the brew; which was so highly approved of by all parties that I will give the recipe, for the benefit of my readers, as it was prepared by the factotum of the late Brigadier of Hydrabad, Arab Mac (a celebrated old Indian general, of great racing and sporting notoriety), who gloried in having the finest stud and the best kitchen in India: "To a bottle of claret add three wine-glasses of cognac, a couple of large table-spoons of sugar, the rind of a lime cut thin, a dozen cloves, the seeds of three cardamum-pods, a quarter of a nutmeg, one green chili, a small sprig of burrage, a dozen leaves of mint, and a threatening of lime-juice, or, what is perhaps better, a lime cut into thin slices. Let it stand for twenty minutes, and then add three bottles of cooled sodawater, stirring it up well, and serving it out with a ladle whilst in a state of effervescence." After breakfast, at which sundry shekar projects were discussed, D and I rode out to a Mulliarry village, followed by our horsekeepers and Googooloo carrying guns, in order to hold a consultation with two men who were said to know the country well. On the road I shot a brace of spur-fowl and a hare of the Old World. 165 weighing nearly ten pounds almost twice the size of the ordinary Indian species, which rarely averages more than six. I also enjoyed the wild raspberries, which grew in the woods in great abundance. On arriving at the village we soon found the men we were looking for, and learnt that bison had been seen the day before in the jungle on the side of the hills. I accordingly sent Googooloo and one of the Mulliarries to follow their trail, and find out if they were there still ; and, accompanied by the other, we went to a second village, where a man resided who knew some hill full of caves which were inhabited by several bears. From the account he gave, we determined to try our chance the day after; and, after having waited some time for Googooloo, who did not make his appearance, we returned to our cottage. Whilst we were at dinner he came in and told me that he had tracked a herd of fine bison (a bull and four cows) to a small detached hill, a short distance from the foot of the Sheveroys, where he came up to them whilst they were feeding, and, after watching them for some time, he retired without disturbing them. As this was not very far from the place where the bears were said to be, B , D , and myself agreed to start early the following morning to try and beat the bison out. The collector sent some of 166 The Hunting Grounds his u peons" (police) to prepare beaters, and D sent down a small tent to a village where we intended to sleep the following night. The next morning we started at daybreak; de- scended the ghaut, and wound round the base of the Sheveroys for a distance of nearly seven miles, when Googooloo pointed us out the place where he had come up with the bison. Had I been alone, I should undoubtedly have preferred to try stalking rather than beating, but with three (and one a green hand, D ) it was out of the question. We found the peons had collected about forty Coolies and villagers, whom I sent with Googooloo to the further side of the hill, as I felt convinced the herd, if it was still there, would endeavour to make for the thick jungle on the sides of the Sheveroys. There were two likely-looking places for the bison to break, at one of which B posted himself, and D and myself took the other. Both places were by a broad stony watercourse that wound along the valley which separated the hill where the bison were said to be, from the Sheveroy range, and the herd would have to cross it in order to gain the opposite jungle. D was very anxious to kill a bison, and I promised to give him the shot should the herd break into the open near us. He annoyed me very much, however, by his fidgety movements, for he could not of the Old World. 167 sit quiet a moment, and kept handling the lock of an old rifle, until I made up my mind that he would either shoot me or some of the half-a-dozen people whom, in spite of my remonstrance, he would have sit- ting near us, to my intense disgust ; for my olfactory organs received a shock they did not get over for some time, from the offensive smell that was emitted by the exhalation from their bodies, the cocoa-nut oil in their hair, and the garlic and sour rice they had been eating. At last the bison broke, and a fine bull came tear- ing down right in front of us, and, when about twenty paces distant, D put up his piece ; but, being an old and unserviceable piece of goods, it snicked, and away went the quarry in the thick jungle on the other side the watercourse. I caught a glimpse of his hinder quarters as he was tearing along the rising ground on the opposite side of the ravine, and I let drive with my rifle, hoping to stop him by a chance shot. I heard the " thud " of the ball as it struck him, and doubled him up for the moment, but he was not hit in a vital place, and I heard him bellowing as he tore through the dense jungle that covers the sides of the hills. Both D and I tracked him for some distance, and in some places large gouts of blood were visible ; but on coining to a watercourse, which bore the marks of his having cleared at a bound, I gave over the 168 The Hunting Grounds pursuit, and went in search of B , whom we heard fire a double shot. We found him taking out the offal of a doe spotted-deer he had killed, and pre- paring it for carriage. He had seen three bison break, but they were out of range of his rifle. The beaters now made their appearance, and, slinging the deer on long poles, which they carried over their shoulders, took it to the place where we had left our horses. I chose a dozen of the most intelligent-looking of the number to accompany us, and dismissed the rest with a bucksheesh, telling them they would be well paid if they brought us news of large game. Then, mounting our horses, we rode off to the village where our tent had been sent, which was about six miles further, and found " Five Minutes " anxiously expecting our arrival, dinner being nearly ready. We had a most refreshing bathe in a tank, on the bund or stone embankment of which our tent was pitched, under the shade of a beautiful banian-tree, and afterwards did ample justice to his entertainment. Poor D was in a dreadful way about his old piece, and I spared him the roasting I had fully in- tended to have given him for the nervous agitation he had shown whilst waiting for the bison to break. After dinner was over I sent for the head man of the village, and told him our intention of setting out very early the next morning after bears, and we of the Old World. 169 were agreeably surprised to find he had already pre- pared people who knew their haunts to accompany us. We assembled all our people in a circle, distributed the usual allowance of grog and tobacco, and after- wards heard all they had to say about the game to be found in the country, and the most effective manner of pursuing it. After I heard all their opinions, I made up my mind to start an hour before the first appearance of dawn for the hill where the bears were said to be, which was about a coss, or two miles, from the village, and to await their returning to their caves ; as in this part of the country, during the hot weather, bears roam about the jungle in search of food all the night and return to their caves in the morning, where they remain during the intense heat of the day, issuing forth again at sunset. They live chiefly upon the wild fruits of the jungle and white ants, which latter insect they devour in thousands, by scraping a hole with their claws, and sucking them out of their nests. They are also passionately fond of honey, and show themselves wonderfully sharp in finding out wild bees' nests, climbing lofty trees in search of them. 170 The Hunting Grounds CHAPTEE XL BEAR-HUNTING. We start for the Bear Hill. The reconnaissance. Bears afoot. Their strongholds invested. A foraging party surprised. Two bears die. Three more afoot. Another couple yield their spoils. Desperate encounter with an enraged vixen, who almost proved a Tartar." The Old Shekarry" in a fix for a time, but wins the game at last. The bag of the day. The return. THE next morning we were all up and equipped for sport by 2 A.M., and, after a substantial feed, started for the Bear Hill on foot, as the villagers said the route was difficult for horses. At this season of the year the night is not at any time dark, and we managed to get along very well in Indian file, although the path was very narrow, and in some places we had to crawl along on our hands and knees. We arrived at the foot of the hill some time before sunrise, and here I halted the party, which numbered about twenty Coolies and villagers, and telling B to prevent any of them from straying, and to keep as quiet as possible, I went forward to of the Old World. 171 reconnoitre, accompanied by Googooloo, the Mul- liarry, and two villagers who knew the bears' caves. Although the hill was not more than 800 feet in height it was very steep, and the ascent was the more difficult on account of numberless rocky crags which were entwined with thick bush. At last we managed to climb up the dry bed of a watercourse, in which we noticed the fresh traces of bears in many places, and after a good deal of scrambling and climbing up ledges of rock, we arrived at the summit, which was a small table-land covered with tufts of coarse grass and large boulders of rock. As we were going along Googooloo suddenly stopped, gave his usual grunt to attract attention, and tapping me on the shoulder, pointed me out two bears at the foot of the hill. With the aid of my glass I could see they were very busily engaged in digging up the earth; so, setting the Mulliarry to watch their movements, I went on to the caves, and, after a careful examination, found seven entrances, five of which bore marks of being inhabited by bears. I sent one of the villagers and Googooloo to bring up the rest of the party as quietly as possible, so as not to disturb the game we knew was afoot, and by the time they arrived, I and the other villagers had managed to block up the two smallest entrances (which did not seem to have been frequented of late) with stones and pieces of rock. 172 The Hunting Grounds I posted B on a rock which commanded the two entrances of the largest cave, and D by another. The other two I guarded by some of the villagers who were armed with matchlocks, and I despatched half-a-dozen others to different elevated peaks, from which they could survey all the surrounding country. When all were in their places I went with Goo- gooloo to the Mulliarry, who was watching the two bears, and he pointed them out to me in the same place we had first seen them. Accompanied by Googooloo, carrying my second gun (an eight smooth-bore), I stole down the hill as gently as I could, making for a large rock which appeared to me to be within a short distance of the place where I had seen the bears. I was some time before I could make my way to it, as the bush and underwood were thick, and we had to make our way through dense masses of en- tangled creepers. At last we gained the rock, and Googooloo's quick eye soon discovered our friends still hard at work scraping up the earth of the ant- hill. We stole gently up, seeking the cover of rocks and bushes, until I got within fifteen paces of them, still undiscovered. Watching their movements until I got a fair opportunity, I planted a rifle-ball behind the shoulder of one, which rolled over and over on the ground in the agonies of death, and then gave of the Old World. 173 the other the contents of my second barrel, which took effect about the small ribs, tumbling her over for the moment. She, however, soon got up again, raised herself on her haunches, uttering a peculiarly melancholy cry, and looked round in a most woe- begone manner. This position offered me a splendid shot, and I finished her career with a ball from my second gun. Having ascertained that both were dead, Goo- gooloo climbed a large tree that was near, and fastened the Mulliarry's turban-cloth, like a streamer, to one of the highest branches, in order to serve as a land- mark for the Coolies when they came to collect the game. He also cut off a claw from the right fore- paw of each bear, so as to mark it as mine, a precau- tion the gang always took, in consequence of an individual having obtained a deer which I had un- doubtedly shot at a battue some time previously, and, to the intense disgust of all my people, allowed him to appropriate and carry off. As we were leisurely returning up the water- course towards the caves where B and D were posted, I heard a rolling of stones and a curious grunting noise close behind us. I jumped on a large boulder of rock, arid saw three bears making their way slowly up the watercourse in the same direction we were going. I immediately made signs to Goo- gooloo and the Mulliarry to hide, and I crouched 174 The Hunting Grounds behind the rock until they were past, as I wished my friends to get a shot, and they were evidently bound their way. These three had hardly passed when Googooloo pointed me out two others making their way up the hill by the same route. Standing behind a rock so as not to alarm them, I let drive right and left as they passed within a few paces of me. They were both badly hit behind the shoulder, and each must have imagined the other was the cause of his injury, for with a ferocious noise they immediately attacked each other, and closing in a hug, rolled down the hill some short distance. I followed with my second gun, and found one dead and the other leaning over him in a very deplorable condition. He was too far gone to take any notice of my approach, although he continued to make a fearful moaning, which I put a stop to by giving him a quietus in the shape of a pill behind the ear, which finished his career. I had just commenced reloading, when I heard a loud straggling volley from the top of the hill where my friends were posted, and almost immediately it was followed by a shriek from the Mulliarry, whom I saw make a spring into the jungle just in time to avoid the charge of a huge female bear who came rushing down the watercourse in a most ferocious manner. I was directly in her path, and with a roar she made right at me ; I let drive at her head with of the Old World. 175 my only barrel that had not been discharged, but it failed to stop her, and she had knocked me down and was on me in the twinkling of an eye. The slope of the hill was steep, and we both of us rolled over and over several times; I was almost breathless, when Googooloo rushed on her with his bill-hook and endeavoured to attract her attention. Luckily she could not bite at all, as my shot had smashed her snout and lower jaw to pieces ; but she kept me locked in her embrace, and squeezed me more roughly than affectionately. My head was well protected with a bison-skin cap ; and getting a tight grasp of her fur on each side, with my arms underneath hers, so that she could not do me much injury with her claws, I regularly wrestled with her for some time ; and although I brought my science to play, and threw her on her back several times " by giving her the leg," she never let go her hug, and I was almost suffocated with the quantity of blood and froth that came from her wound and covered my face, beard, and chest. Googooloo made frantic hits at her from time to time with his bill-hook (the only weapon he had, having lent D his knife), but I ordered him to desist, as his blows did not appear to do the bear much harm, and I was afraid of catching one. At last Bruin appeared to be getting weaker, and I saw her wounds and loss of blood were telling ; and after 176 The Hunting Grounds a little trouble I managed to draw my knife, and drove it up to the hilt in her body under the arm- pits. She gave me an ugly hug, and fell over on her side, pulling me with her. It was her last effort, and I picked myself up quite out of puff, but not much injured, having only received a slight claw on the loins and another rather more severe on the instep. I drew my pistol, which I could not manage to get at before, to give her a settler, but it was not re- quired the game was over, my antagonist was dead. Being covered with blood and dust from head to foot, I must have presented a comical appearance to B and D , who came rushing down in pur- suit of the bear, which D had slightly wounded before she fell in with me. They had met the Mulli- arry en route, who said that he had seen me killed ; and no sooner did Googooloo get sight of this indivi- dual than he sprang on him like a tiger, for his cow- ardice in running away, and we had some difficulty to prevent him from strangling him and in releasing him from his clutches. One of the Coolies brought me the water-skin, and I washed the blood away from my person and threw off a part of my soiled clothes. I then tore off a part of my shirt and bandaged up my loins and foot, which latter bled considerably, and was very painful when I walked, as the claws had penetrated gaiter, boot, and stocking, entering the flesh to the depth of half an of the Old World. 177 inch. Having arranged matters as I best could, I managed to scramble up the hill, though I had some difficulty in doing so, as the back of my head and my arms, shoulders, and knees, were considerably bruised ; and I felt rather shaken and tired after my encounter. When I arrived at the caves I found B had killed the two bears, and D had caught a young one alive. We remained there about half an hour longer, when another female and two half-grown cubs came rolling along, all of whom bit the dust before our united volley. D also went after two others which were seen coming up the hill, but were de- terred from coming near the caves, having taken alarm at the firing. He killed one and severely wounded the other, but somehow or another managed to lose it. The sun had now risen high above the horizon ; the breeze had died away, and not a breath of air was stirring ; a mirage was seen spread over the plain, out of which the wooded hills rose like distant islands. The sultriness was getting more and more oppressive, and it was piping hot before our coolies had managed to collect the game at the foot of the hill, which con- sisted of four male bears, five females, two half-grown cubs, and a very young one caught alive. A number of village people, hearing of our sport, came to carry the game in ; and my servant thought- N 178 The Hunting Grounds fully brought my pony, which I was glad of, as my foot gave me considerable pain. I superintended the preparation of the skins (as my own man who usually did that kind of work was with the gang at Bowani) by seeing them stretched tightly and pegged down on the ground, exposed to the heat of the sun, whilst wood-ashes, cocoa-nut oil, hul.de (turmeric), and arsenical soap were rubbed in. Finding myself rather stiif and sore from my bruises, I mounted my pony " Gooty" and rode back to our bungalow at the top of the Sheveroy Hill, where I arrived late in the evening, leaving B and D to continue their sport with the bears a few days longer, whilst I had my foot looked at by the Doctor, and got fit for work again. of the Old World. 179 CHAPTER XII. BOWANI. Sankerrydroog. An adventure with hyenas. Bowani. Alli- gator-fishing. We start for Andior. " Gooty," my shooting pony : his pedigree and achievements. Small-game shooting. Antelope stalking. Andior. The monkeys and the Brah- mins. Murrel-fishing. A FEW days after our encounter with the bears, -*- I received a note from B telling me that he had heard of rare sport near Bowani, and begging me to join him at the public bungalow at Sankerry- droog, which is two marches from Salem, and about half-way between that place and Bowani. As the wound in my foot was not quite healed I borrowed a palanquin from the collector, and starting the next evening at 4, arrived at Sankerrydroog at 6 A.M., distance thirty-five miles, having stopped a couple of hours for refreshments at McDonald's choultry. I found that the trophies of two bears and a fine buck spotted-deer had been taken during my absence, and B informed me that a large cheeta had been seen prowling about the old hill-fort for some days N 2 180 The Hunting Grounds previous, and that at last, after some trouble, it had been tracked (the evening before) by some of the villagers to a cave, half way up the hill, and large stones had been placed at the entrance, so as to prevent its coming out. After breakfast we began to ascend the hill, B and D - on foot, armed with rifles, and I mounted on my favourite little nag " Gooty," with a boar-spear and my famous dogs "All " and " Hassan," which were half Poligar, half bloodhound. We soon came to the entrance of the cave, which was about four feet in diameter, and, after a fruitless examination for pugs and trails, some of the villagers who were with us pulled down the stones built up at the mouth, and D , B , and a massauljee with a couple of lighted torches entered, but were almost im- mediately obliged to return on account of the foul air and stench within. We then placed a bundle of straw inside, and set fire to it, hoping to drive the brute out with the smoke, but no good result was obtained, although B- thought he heard a moan- ing kind of noise inside. We also fired off several rockets and crackers, which had the effect of dis- lodging some of the inhabitants, for hundreds of curious little four-eared bats came out. Finding that none of these annoyances would bring out the cheeta, I sent in my two dogs, and imme- diately knew that game was a-foot, as AH gave of t/te Old World. 181 tongue the moment he entered, and very shortly afterwards dismal howls and strange rumbling noises were heard issuing from the bowels of the earth, and I began to be alarmed for the dogs, when suddenly I heard a row, and saw my poor friend D (who in spite of my remonstrances would stand right in front of the mouth of the cave) knocked over on the broad of his back by a huge male hyena, whilst in the twinkling of an eye the female, a couple of cubs, and my two dogs passed over him as he lay almost help- less on the ground, and made the best of their way down the hill and across some cultivated fields ; B - let drive a couple of shots as they passed and doubled up the female, and I descended the hill as well as I could, and after a burst of a few minutes, Gooty brought me alongside of the male, who was vainly struggling to get away from my two dogs, one of whom had hold of him by the ear, and the other on the opposite side by the throat. As I did not wish to run the chance of having either of them mauled or bitten, I drove my spear home between the shoulders, and finished the gan^e, after which I went to look after poor D , whom I found much shaken with the fall, his chin and throat being considerably damaged by the claws of the brutes as they passed over him. We returned to the bungalow, convinced that the villagers had mistaken the hyena for a cheeta; and 182 The Hunting Grounds after D had washed, and plastered up his face, we all three got into my bullock-cart, and arrived at Bowani soon after sunset, where we found Mother Garrow and her dusky train of dancing nymphs from the Pagoda awaiting our arrival at the public bunga- low, which is very pleasantly situated on the ruins of an old fort, which, with a large and rather cele- brated pagoda dedicated to the worship of the God- dess Bowani (the deity of the Thugs) is built at the sungum or conflux of the rivers Cauvery and Bowani. Chineah and the gang were delighted with the place, and described the Andior and SamHngalum jungle as being alive with game of all kinds. The next morning we strolled along the banks of the river with our rifles, as Chineah had seen several alligators basking in the sun on a sandbank the day before ; and although we saw plenty of marks of their huge claws imprinted in the sand near the edge of the water, none were to be seen. In spite of Dr. Johnson's reflections on anglers, I determined to try a piscatorial experiment, so I re- turned to the village, and got the "lohar" (black- smith) to forge two large barbed hooks on the ends of a couple of strong English dog-chains, which I made fast to the storm-ropes of my tent, attaching large logs of very light mangoe-wood as floats. I then got a village "chucklar" (shoemaker), a Pariah of the lowest caste, to accompany me with a couple of young of the Old World. 183 pigs, and my servant brought a quantity of raw mutton to serve as bait. Having made all my ar- rangements, I returned to the spot where I had left B and D , couched behind bushes waiting for the chance of a shot, and explained my intentions ; then passing the ropes over the forks of trees so as to give me additional purchase, I baited my hooks and flung them into the river. The "chucklar" soon caught up my idea, and by chewing the end of the pigs' tails he elicited the most melodious music, which soon had the desired effect and attracted the alligators to that part of the river. I threw several pieces of mutton into the stream, and in a very short time there were upwards of a dozen of these immense brutes splashing about and scrambling with each other for the meat. At last one of my floats gave a bob (it was more than a nibble), and then disappeared under water. My gang and a number of villagers seized the rope, and with some difficulty we hauled the brute to the bank of the river, when he began rolling about in the sand, trying to disgorge the bait, and knocking about with his tail so that I began to be afraid he would cut the rope and escape. I ran down with my rifle, and with some difficulty slipped a bowline knot over his head, and in a few moments the gang had fastened up his mouth with a roll of strong cord, and doubled his legs over his 184 The Hunting Grounds back, and in this manner he was dragged along in triumph. In less than two hours we had caught four more, the largest being a little over eleven feet in length. We afterwards let them loose on the plain, and, mounting our horses, killed them with our boar- spears, which entered the throat behind the shoulders and the under parts of the body easily enough ; and we found that a hardened rifle-ball would enter any part of the back or head, which have been stated to be shot-proof by some writers. In the evening we had another nautch, which was prolonged until the " short hours," when we distributed our " largess " to the votaries of Terpsichore and turned in. On the morrow we started for Andior en route for Combie Jungles, and as the distance was not much over twelve miles, and small game was said to be abundant, we determined to shoot our way, having our horses following in case any of us being tired. My little nag " Gooty" was a thoroughly broken shooting-pony, and, although the Rarian system had not then come out, a perfect understanding existed between us : he would come at my call or whistle ; stand perfectly quiet when ordered ; allow me to fire from between his ears, without flinching ; would take the water like a duck ; was famous in a scramble across country ; had no fear, and could almost do everything but speak. He came into my hands in a strange of the Old World. 185 way ; I was encamped outside the village of Nandeir, being en route from Hydrabad to Seetabuldee, and tired and overcome with lassitude, having ridden from Mudnoor, a distance of fifty-two miles, in the heat of the day ; I was lounging on a carpet stretched in front of my tent, enjoying the soothing fragrance of my hookah, and amusing myself with talking to some handsome Mussulmauni damsels who constantly passed to and fro, as they went to draw water from a ghaut on the Godavery river, when a venerable-look- ing old man with a huge silver beard rolling down his chest, and clad in a fakeer's or dervish's garb, came up leading a chestnut mare, and accosting me with the usual salutation, begged "Allah ka nain se " (in the name of Allah) that I would assist him. He evidently took me to be one of the " Faithful," for besides speaking the language fluently, I wore a native dress, consisting of a muslin ungreka, em- broidered silk long-drawers and turban, and my natu- rally dark complexion was considerably deepened by constant exposure to the sun. He told me that he had given up the world, i.e. his wives, and family, and had devoted the remainder of his days to the service of Mahomed, but that lately " dark clouds had been hanging over the garden of his fate, and the blossoms of hope were almost withered." He was en route from Boregaum on the Wurdah river to Hy- drabad, in order to be present at the Mohruin festival 186 The Hunting Grounds in that famous Mussulman capital, but he had been detained by illness on the road, his cash was nearly gone, and moreover, the back of his mare, which had been presented to him by the Oomraootee JSTawab, on the occasion of his son's recovery from illness, was so galled that he could not ride her, and did not know how to proceed on his journey. His mare was a blood-looking little creature of the Mahratta caste, with a running sore on her withers nearly the size of the palm of my hand ; and although at the time I thought the wound was incurable, and she would never again be fit for work, I offered ten rupees for her, which the old man very gladly ac- cepted. I had an old Arab syce who was famous for his knowledge of herbs, and under his care she got rapidly well, doing me good service for several years. " Gooty " was one of her progeny by " Chunda lal," (the Red Moon), formerly the property of the late celebrated Dewan of the Deckan, of that name, a magnificent chestnut Arab of remarkably pure caste, well known in the Nizam's dominions as the winner of the great Moul Alii steeple-chase. Gooty proved a " chip of the old block," and com- menced his career by carrying off the pony races, Galloway stakes, and hurdle-race (weight for inches) at Hydrabad, under the name of the " Eed Bover," afterwards beating General W 's celebrated black pony " D. I. O." in two matches, and distinguishing of the Okl World. 187 himself at Bellary and Bangalore, where he put a good many gold mohurs in the pocket of his master, ever proving a thorough good one. His greatest achievement was, however, performed at Gooty (which name he has since borne), where he carried his master safely up the steep rocky scarp of that celebrated hill-fort to the round-house on the extreme summit, and down again ; a feat which, although it has often been attempted, was never accomplished in the memory of the oldest inhabitant, or of the old Nawab who had been confined there as a state- prisoner for upwards of five-and-twenty years. A gallant officer of the 48th had a brass plate fixed on a rock about half way up, to commemorate his having ridden a horse named "Firefly" up to that point. "Gooty" although he measured barely thirteen hands two inches, was famous in difficult country, and would follow a boar con amore, doubling like a greyhound after a hare. " Mais revenons a nos moutons." We passed through a good deal of low brush jungle and rumnah grass, alive with small game ; for in less than four hours we were satiated with our sport, having killed three couple and a half of " florikin" (or lesser bustard), the finest bird for the table in India, thirteen leash of hares, nine brace of grey partridge, and three of grey quail ; and as the sun's rays were burning intensely powerful, and our 188 The Hunting Grounds beaters began to show unmistakeable signs of distress, we adjourned to the shade of a widely-spreading peepul-tree, and were enjoying our " kieff" (a Turkish word signifying a state of dreamy existence, when the body is motionless, all the senses are at rest, and the mind dormant), and discussing cheroots and brandy-panee, when a villager who was passing by informed us that he had just seen a large herd of antelope on a " maidaun " or plain about two miles further on. We loaded our rifles, and after a few minutes' canter arrived at the place indicated, where we saw a herd consisting of about sixty does and seven or eight bucks, which were easily distinguishable, on account of their long spiral horns and much darker colour. They caught sight of us almost immediately, and our sudden appearance caused some consterna- tion ; for the does collected in a body behind the bucks, who stood as if on sentry, carefully watching our movements, although we were at least six hundred yards distant. I saw at once that they were very wild, and that the utmost caution would be necessary in stalking so as to get within shot: we therefore rode slowly away, until I could see by my field-glass that they had ceased to take any notice of us. I then directed B and D where to take post under cover of some bushes, whilst I undertook to stalk the leader, a fine black buck with a beautiful of the Old World. 189 pair of antlers, and to draw the herd if possible towards their ambuscade. I divested myself of my white pith hunting-cap, substituting a head-dress formed of creepers, and cutting a number of pliable twigs I interwove them into a kind of basketwork screen, in which I fastened green boughs, so as to make it resemble a bush as much as possible, leaving an opening through which I could point my rifle. When this was completed I sallied forth, taking care to get to leeward, and seeking any cover I could find, either behind bushes or from any slight undula- tions of the ground, until I got to within five hundred yards of the herd, who were quietly browsing, uncon- scious of danger. Here I lay for some time at full length on the ground behind my screen so as to give my com- panions time to get posted, and taking out my tele- scope I surveyed the herd for some time before I could make out the position of the leader, whom at last I twigged lying down and chewing the cud, under the shade of a bauble-bush, some short distance from the others. I stole gently forwards, sometimes stooping and walking, and at others creeping on my hands and knees (which is extremely laborious work), until I got within two hundred yards of him, when, feeling out of breath and rather unsteady, I rested for some time. As soon as I had recovered my breath, I slowly commenced my onward progress until I got 190 The Hunting Grounds s within a hundred and twenty yards, when, from the motion of the herd, I saw that my walking bush had excited some suspicion, for they began to close up, and crane their necks in my direction ; which movement was immediately perceived and understood by their leader, who sprang on his feet, stamped, and advanced some five or six paces towards me, snuffing the air as if to reconnoitre. This position offered me a fair shot I raised my rifle and pulled the trigger just as a low bark escaped him (the signal of alarm to the herd). It was his last warning, for my grooved-bore was true the bullet sped, and entered his heart; he sprang high into the air and fell dead. I fired my second barrel at the herd, which was in full retreat, bringing down a doe, my ball entering the small ribs near the spine, and "paralysing her hind-quarters ; and, after drawing my knife across her throat, I jumped on Gooty, who was brought up by my syce, and followed the herd, driving it towards the spot where B and D were posted. Both got shots. B rolled over a young buck at a long distance ; and D bagged a doe, missing two other fair shots. We collected the game tied up in front of our sad- dles, and then made the best of our way towards Andior, where we found our tents pitched under the shade of a beautiful mangoe tope, in front of which was a large square tank, full of water-lilies, and an of the Old World. 191 old dilapidated pagoda, on the walls of which some scores of the common green tufted monkey sat grin- ning, jabbering, and making mouths at us, as we passed. A curious tale is told of a detachment of the th Native Infantry having made a colony of these monkeys revenge an insult which was offered them by the inhabitants of Trippasore, the greater part of whom consist of Brahmins. It appears that the military were en route to the Presidency, escorting treasure, and the Bunnias, or grain-sellers, raised the price of rice very considerably the day before they passed through their town, which conduct aroused Jack Sepoy's indignation, who, however, smothered his resentment until his return from Madras, when each man filled his haversack with rice and dhal (a kind of sweet bean), and on repassing through the town he threw it on the roofs of all the tiled houses, on which lived hundreds of monkeys, occasioning a most ludicrous scene for immediately the tiles were seen flying in clouds into the streets, until the greater part of the town was unroofed; for the monkeys, finding the grains slip under the tiles, lifted them up, and threw them into the street, and as they took one up the rice slipped under the next, and so on, until a good roof was demolished in a few minutes, to the utter disgust and mortification of the Brahmins, who dare not molest the monkeys, considering these 192 The Hunting Grounds animals sacred, as being the incarnation of their powerful god, Hanimann. After we had imbibed some cooled Bass, the best beverage for India, B , who was a fisherman, went down to the tank with his rod, and in the course of half an hour landed over a dozen fine murrel (a voracious kind of fish, somewhat resem- bling the jack), from four to eight pounds in weight. On cutting them open we found the inside full of leeches, so we declined having them put upon our table, to the great satisfaction of Chineah and the gang, who pronounced them delicious. of the Old World. 193 CHAPTEE XIII. THE COMBEI JUNGLE. Early rising. " Tiger's milk." A sloth-bear started. Combei. Our encampment. A salt-lick. Great bag of deer by night. Ding-ding.- A strange rencontre whilst peafowl- stalking. Leg-bail. The death of the tiger. B -- 's sport. A glorious chase. The bull-nilghau. The bag. A black panther. Strange mode of catching deer. Return to Bowani. Finale. ETTING up early in the morning, after a hard fag the day previous, is at all times a painful operation, more especially during the intensely sultry weather preceding the downfall of the monsoon in India * r when sleep, balmy sleep, is banished from the couch of the weary one, and he tosses and rolls about, feverish and restless, in an irritable state of mind, with aching bones, overcome with lassitude and fatigue, the whole night long, unable to obtain even a doze until the cool refreshing breeze of the morning sets in, when to be awoke suddenly is indeed a martyrdom, and to arouse a man without a cause at such a time is to render him unaccountable for his actions. 194 The Hunting Grounds My servant, " Five Minutes," upon whom the task of getting us up in the morning usually devolved, was well aware that at this period "Sahib-log" (masters) are somewhat in the same humour as " bears with sore heads ;" for many a boot, candlestick, and empty sodawater-bottle had he dodged in his time whilst attempting to rouse some heavy sleeping " sub " for parade after a public night at Mess ; and, being a wide-awake nigger, he now never exposed himself in this somewhat perilous undertaking without having first provided himself with some emollient and resusci- tating mixture calculated to better the human feelings, such as well-cooled claret-cup, soda and brandy, or "tiger's milk," which served better than any u soft words," the nigger knew, " to allay wrath." As the latter concoction was considered the most effective, I give the recipe ; and if ladies with surly husbands would only try " Five Minutes' " dodge, of admini- stering a dose of " tiger's milk " before they asked for " the needful '' to settle the little account of crino- line, &c., they would find it acted upon the milk of human kindness far better than all the wheedling and soft sawder which husbands (too soon, alas !) get ac- customed to. Kecipe Beat up the yolks of three eggs well with half a pint of brandy, a wine-glass of sugar, a bit of lemon-peel cut thin, and a dozen cloves and cardamums ; add a quart of new milk, mix well, grate in the third of a nutmeg, and serve it in a tankard, of of the Old World. 195 which the bottom should be seen before it is removed from the lips. When "Five Minutes" thought his master was tired over night, and would be reluctant to move in the morning, he would carefully prepare a bowl of this insinuating mixture, and, creeping with noiseless steps to the head of the bed, would there remain, bowl in hand, whilst the " chochra," or dressing-boy, turned up the coverlid, put on the unconscious sleeper's socks and boots, and shampooed his limbs until he awoke, when, as soon as he began to rub his eyes, the soothing draught 1 was applied ; and its kindly effects would almost immediately demonstrate themselves, for he would allow himself to be dressed " like a good child," and after a cheroot was as mild as new milk. Antelope-stalking, the day before, had somewhat knocked me up, and I felt rather stiff on first rising ; but after my matinly cup, a plunge in the tank of the pagoda, and a few whiffs of the " fragrant narcotic weed," the lassitude wore off, and we all three mounted our nags and started for Combei, distant from Andior fourteen miles, where we intended to sojourn for a few days, as a herd of bison was said to be in the neighbourhood. As we rode along, D twigged a female sloth- bear climbing leisurely up the side of a rocky hill ; so slipping the two Poligar dogs, AH and Hassan, we o 2 196 The Hunting Grounds gave chase with our boar-spears, but the old vixen was close to her cave, and gave us the slip, to D 's intense disgust. On arrival at Combei, which we found to be a small deserted village, abandoned by its original inhabitants on account of fever, and occupied only by four families of the Mulcher caste (a jungle tribe), things did not appear very promising, so we pitched our camp under a large peepul-tree by a beautifully clear stream full offish. When all was arranged to our satisfaction, we strolled out in different directions to look out for bison. D and B came across fresh trails, but re- turned immediately, as it was too late to follow them up. I was not so fortunate, although I killed a young spotted-deer, and found out a salt-lick, where there were innumerable fresh marks of elk, spotted- deer, jungle-sheep, and some old ones of bison. These animals come for miles round about to eat the earth which they find here and there in the jungle, strongly impregnated with salt, of which they are extremely fond. At dinner I mentioned the salt-lick 1 had dis- covered, and, as it was not more than half a mile from our tents, we resolved to try the Burmese experiment of shooting deer by aid of an artificial light, as the moon did not favour us. Accordingly, Chineah made a lamp with pieces of rag, and a of the Old World. 197 quantity of fat, oil, and tar, which he got from the cook, and fastened it to a bamboo pole about fifteen feet in height ; then, providing ourselves with several guns, a carpet, brandy-panee, &c., we went to the salt-lick, a little before dusk, and, having erected a kind of screen with bushes and branches, comfort- ably established ourselves in front and to leeward of an open space of ground, which was covered with the footprints of different kinds of deer. Our pole was planted in the ground some half dozen paces in front, and when it got dark the lamp was lighted, and a piece of bright tin (the lid of a cowrie-box) placed behind, to serve as a reflector, and also to prevent the light from revealing our ambuscade. We waited for nearly an hour without hearing or seeing anything, when suddenly I thought I saw a pair of bright eyes shining like stars from the thicket in front of the light, and in a moment a low bark informed me that my plan had succeeded, and that a buck-elk was at hand. I whispered to the others not to fire until I gave the signal for I knew, from the cry of the buck, that the herd was at hand ; and in a few moments he stepped forward, barking, stamping his hoofs, scratching his back with his antlers, and staring at the light; and almost immediately he was followed by the rest of the herd, which must have numbered nearly twenty. The light engrossed all their attention, and they came to within a dozen 198 The Hunting Grounds paces of it before I gave the signal to fire by a low " Coo." B , D , Chineah, and myself, let drive double shots, and our volley threw the herd into such confusion that some of us had time to make use of second guns before those that were unwounded could get away. When the smoke had cleared, we found five dead, and four others wounded, which we despatched. Both B and myself felt that it was a poaching kind of game, so we did not care to continue it, and returned to the tent ; but D and Chineah re- mained in the ambuscade all night, and managed to bag another buck-elk and four spotted-deer, besides which the gang, with the dogs' assistance, next morning brought in five other deer, which they found dead or wounded some distance off in the jungle. The game proved very acceptable to the Mulcher tribes who roam about these jungles ; and the gang jerked a considerable quantity of venison, or rather converted it into what they term " Ding-ding," by cutting the meat into long strips, which they rub with salt, ground spices, and dry in the sun, until it becomes as hard as a board. When required for use, it is allowed to soak in water for a couple of hours to soften, and is then broiled over embers, when it is not at all unpalateable, and often constituted the prin- cipal part of a Shekarry's fare whilst on trail. During the next three days, although we constantly of the Old World. 199 made long excursions into the jungle, we were very unsuccessful in meeting with large game, only killing a few deer for food. One evening, as I was re- turning towards the tent after a long weary fag, during which I had not pulled trigger, Chineah and one or two of the gang who were with me asked me to shoot a peacock for them that was screaming in a thicket close by. I bid them remain perfectly quiet where they were, whilst I followed it up guided by the cry, and at last I got so near that I could hear the old birds scratching up the ground, and the young ones chirping or rather whistling; but the under- wood was so dense that I could not get sight of them, although they must have been within a few paces from me. I clambered down the dry sandy bed of a nullah, and was peering between the trees in the expectation of getting a glimpse of the brood, when, turning stealthily round a large jummona-bush (a kind of willow), I suddenly came face to face upon an immense tiger, who had evidently been taking his "siesta" under the cool shade of the shelving bank, for when I first caught sight of him he was stretching himself and yawning as if only just awake. Doubtless it was a mutual surprise, but I was the first to recover my self-possession, for with- out a moment's hesitation I swung round, and not- withstanding we were barely six feet apart, and my gun (a double eight-guage by Westley Richards) 200 The Hunting Grounds was only loaded with No. 4 shot, I let drive right and left full into his face. Before the smoke cleared away, the tiger, uttering an appalling shriek of rage, sprang clear over my head, and fell with a crash against the opposite bank : whilst I, without waiting to watch his further movements, gave " leg bail, " and ran in a contrary direction down the nullah. Finding that I was not pursued, I reloaded with ball, and " Richard was himself again," for I must own my serenity of mind was somewhat disturbed at such an unlooked-for rencontre. Chineah, attracted by the double report, now came up, and, having taken my pet rifle from him, I slung the smooth-bore over my shoulder, directed him to remain quiet in a tree, and again made my way to the scene of action. I soon came across the tiger's pugs, and followed them up to a pool of water where there were marks of his having quenched his thirst a few moments before. The double charge of shot I administered at such close quarters had evidently taken effect, for the trail was marked with large crimson drops, and I knew that his sight was partially if not entirely destroyed, as from time to time he had struck his head against the steep banks on each side of the nullah, leaving large gouts of blood behind him. In a few minutes I heard sundry strange noises in a patch of reeds and corinda-bushes by the side of the nullah, and from the " swearing" of a troop of of the Old World. 201 monkeys in the trees overhead on each bank I knew what to expect. I clambered up a boulder of rock, from whence I could see the tiger going round and round evidently quite blind, for every now and then he knocked his head against stones and bushes, when he would give a short angry roar, tear up the ground, and bite at everything within his reach. I saw at a glance how matters were, so stealing gently up I aimed just behind the shoulder, and the ball passing through the heart immediately put him out of his misery, for he sprang high into the air and dropped stone dead. On examination I found the whole of the upper part of the face was blown to pieces and both eyes destroyed with the effect of my first shots, indeed the head was a mass of congealed blood, none of the features being distinguishable ; however, such is the tenacity of life in the feline race that he managed even in this condition to make his way for upwards of half a mile although totally blind. A whistle brought up my followers, and we imme- diately commenced denuding the tiger of his spoils, in which operation we were overtaken by darkness, but by lighting a huge fire we managed to accomplish our purpose, and afterwards made the best of our way to the tents, where I found B and D deeply interested in exploring the interior of a huge marrow-pie, the former having that morning killed a fine nilghau within a few hundred paces of our 202 The Hunting Grounds encampment. After dinner we superintended the pegging down of the skins, and retired early to rest, as the Mulchers had tracked up the herd of nilghau, and we determined if possible to drive them into the more open country on the morrow, and ride them down with our boar-spears. I sounded the "reveille" through the camp an hour before dawn, and after having fortified the " inner man " and partaken of a " stirrup cup," we lighted our cheroots, mounted our nags, and under the guidance of the Mulchers set out for the cover in which the game had been marked. It was a glorious morning, and we were all in the best of spirits. As we rode along, accompanied by the gang and the greater part of our followers, who were to act as beaters, every now and then we put up coveys of quail, partridge, or rock-pigeon, and once or twice we caught sight of troops of antelope and spotted- deer bounding through the more open jungle. After a cursory survey of the country, which was anything but fair riding-ground, being covered with low scrub jungle and intersected with innumerable nullahs and gullies, we took our post some little distance from each other, whilst our people extended themselves in a large semicircle, and advanced slowly, shouting and beating tom-toms. In the course of a few minutes a tremendous yell informed us that the game was afoot, a crashing of underwood was heard, and a herd of the Old World. 203 of nine nilghau, consisting of two bulls and seven cows, broke into the plain. We immediately laid the dogs into them, and, after a smart burst of about a mile, two of the hindermost cows were brought to a stand- still, Hassan and Slogee pursuing one, whilst Bran and Ali fastened on the other ; the greyhounds yelping and giving tongue, but not having the pluck to lay hold. Leaving the fallen to the care of D who, being but indifferently mounted, was pounding along in the rear, B and I each selected a bull, and after sundry purls and divers charges, in which we were often the pursued, both of us managed to " bring our game to grass." The one I was after charged repeatedly, and, notwithstanding I was admirably mounted on my pet hog-hunter Lall Babba, it was not until we had covered a good four miles of ground that I managed at last, when the quarry was swerving about from side to side, breathless and exhausted, to drive my spear in behind the shoulder and out of the chest, when he succumbed and bit the dust. The bull-nilghau (from the Hindostani nil, blue, and ghau, cow) is about the height of a galloway, and somewhat resembles what a hybrid would be between a deer and a cow; he has curved pointed horns, a short mane, but hardly any dewlap. The cow is smaller, and of a dun fawn-colour. Both have beautiful black eyes, like those of the deer. 204 The Hunting Grounds On rejoining the gang we found that D had despatched the two cows seized by the dogs, and wounded a third with his rifle, which latter the dogs were still chasing. We accordingly loosened the saddles of our nags, and reclined under a tree whilst our syces rubbed them down ; and after some time D returned, having killed the third cow, when, as the sun was extremely powerful, we remounted and made the best of our way to the tents, leaving the gang to break up the deer and bring in the skins. The flesh of the nilghau somewhat resembles venison, but is coarser; the hump, however, when salted and spiced is not to be despised, and the marrow is one of the greatest delicacies to be had in India. In the evening, just as we were going to sit down to dinner, one of our people, who had been bathing in the stream a short distance below our camp, came running in with the information that he had seen two bears drinking, close to. We immediately sallied forth in pursuit, and B had the luck to fall in with them, killing one outright with the first shot, and disabling the other, which Chineah despatched. After this little episode we dined, and sat round the camp-fire discussing the events of the day until a. late hour, when we turned in highly satisfied with our sport, for slaying a bull-nilghau single-handed with the spear is not an every day occurrence even in an Indian sportsman's career. of the Old World. 205 The next day we moved on to Kaupoor, distance nine miles, where we pitched our tents, having heard that a herd of elephants had been seen by some Mulchers a few days before; but after a couple of days' search, during which we found no fresh trails, we advanced to Dewara, where, as we were beating a very thick and likely cover, a black panther started up from a cleft in the ground close under my feet, and I had the good fortune to roll him over with a single ball, which took effect just behind the ear. The skin was magnificent, the spots being distinctly visible when held up to the light, appearing of a deeper black than the rest. The gang declared that the black panther was a much more dangerous animal than the ordinary species ; and as I had on a previous occasion seen one, that Walter M had wounded, charge most desperately several times, perhaps their assertion is correct. The one I killed certainly was a most formidable-looking customer, having great yellow eyes and long black whiskers, but the fur was soft and silky as velvet. The next four days afforded us no sport except an old she-bear, which was killed by B and D whilst engaged in eating the fruit of the " mowra" tree ; but I was very much struck with the singular and ingenious manner in which the Mulchers of this part of the jungle catch spotted-deer and antelope. They cut strong pieces of the creeping-bamboo about a quarter of an inch in diameter and four inches in length, leaving the curved 206 The Hunting Grounds sharp-pointed stout thorn that grows out of the joint. In the other end of this is a notch, in which is fast- ened a piece of strong fibre made from the aloe, about eighteen inches in length, to the end of which is attached a small round pebble by a hole drilled in the centre. In some parts of the jungle is found a small sweet- tasted gourd, somewhat shaped like a cucumber, and of this both spotted- deer and antelope are particularly fond. The natives, being aware of the fact, bait a number of these hooks with this fruit and throw them in the runs ; the deer unsuspiciously begin to eat them, and, finding the string and pebble knocking about, they bend down their head and attempt to break it off by treading on it with their fore feet, or striking it with the hind. In either case, the chances are that the cord gets between the division in the hoof, and, being arrested by the stone, they are irretrievably caught, as the hook fastens in the mouth or throat, and the more they struggle the firmer they are held. They generally struggle so violently that death from of the Old World. 207 exhaustion follows in a very short time, although I have seen both spotted-deer and antelope brought in alive, having been caught in this manner. Our leave was now nearly expired, so we were obliged to commence a retrograde movement, and, having packed up our trophies, we returned to Bowani, where Mother Garrow, a very Paphian queen, was awaiting our arrival with a formidable array of dusky nymphs. For three days we kept up a continuous nautch, and even after that time we were not tired of gazing upon the graceful pirouettes of the fair votaries of Terpsichore, or listening to the warbling of the dark-eyed songstresses as they sang on the old subjects, " Love and War ;" and, when the time came for us to take our departure, more than one shed tears as the farewell words were spoken : indeed if "Rumour with her many tongues" spake true, it was discovered, soon after our departure, that there were vacancies to be filled up in the Pagoda of the dark mysterious goddess. Oh, D , " I could a tale unfold " that would raise up a spirit on thy fireside, that all the soft* sawder of thy oily tongue would never calm ! But I'll spare your feelings for the sake of " Auld lang syne " and the jolly days we spent together in the merry green woods. We got into Trichy just in time, for two days after- wards the monsoon broke, and there was a continuous downfall of rain, which inundated the whole country. 208 The Hunting Grounds Section 3. The Mountain Ranges. CHAPTER XIV. THE NEILGHERRIES. " Primaeval woods, and forests vast and rude, Where reigns a deep unbroken solitude : Eternal teaks, who 've wider stretched their arms And deeper struck their roots amid the storms." Index. Pleasing recollections. The deep forest described. The pleasures and excitement of a hunter's life. The requisite quali- fications. The Neilgherries and their productions. Variety of game. Ootacamund. Englishmen arid their love of Sport. Dawson's Hotel. Burnside Cottage. Mala-mund. The Todas : their women, habitations, and strange customs. News of elk. The start : preliminaries. The drive. Game afoot. A capital shot. Three deer bite the dust, and Bruin yields up his spoils. A stag at bay. The return. Con- vivial gathering. The Major's story. Neilgherries. How many pleasing recoil ec- tions of heart-stirring events are associated with that name ; how many glorious days' sport does it recall to mind ; how many a dear friend does it bring before me, with whom I have bearded the tiger in his lair, tracked the mighty elephant to his haunt in of the Old World. 209 the pathless forest, and there despoiled him of his trophies, or pursued the watchful ibex from crag to crag, over precipices, chasms, and ledges of rock which men dared not look down in their cooler moments ! Many a hand I then clasped has become cold, many a voice I loved to listen to is hushed for ever ; he with whom I have often scoured the plain and struggled for the spear after the mighty grey boar, fell a shattered wreck before my eyes in the van of the fight that murky morn when " the Six Hundred" charged. There are times when the past comes before me with sadly painful distinctness, and my heart yearns to return once more to that land where I have passed the happiest years of my life, and to revisit those scenes which are engraven in my memory in strong and ineffaceable colours, although I know that my merry companions are gone, and that their places are occupied by strangers. Who among us have not some sunny spots in their exis- tence, some remembrance of happier days gone by which they love to look back upon with pleasure, however bright future prospects may appear ? Almost all of us have some fondly cherished souvenir or trophy upon which we love to gaze and think of the past, until the soul-stirring scenes of " auld lang syne " again come vividly to mind ; and although we feel that they may never come again, we look back with pleasure upon the time when sunshine illumined our path. p 210 The Hunting Grounds With some the golden age appears to have been passed at school with others, later in life. Here a stately old general tells of the glorious time he passed as a jolly sub in the days of powder and pigtails ; and there a sturdy old squire of the last generation recounts with glee the doings of his time, 'when hounds could run and huntsmen went the pace ;' yon phlegmatic looking old divine, with blanched locks and rubicund nose which bespeaks his love of the pleasures of the table, relates, with intense satisfac- tion, the roistering days he spent as a young man in a fast regiment of Light Dragoons, when it was con- sidered a " crying sin " for any one to quit the social board until he had disposed of a couple of magnums under his belt ; and that shrivelled-up old relic of mortality, who seems to stand before us as a specimen of what the hand of Time can effect on our mortal frame, will prate by the hour of the jolly dogs of his day, and the fascinations of town when he was a gay Lothario. Each and every one has some period of his life on which he loves to look back and think upon, although, perhaps, he may talk much more about the future. The soldier loves to recall to mind the scenes of many a hard-fought day ; the sailor his adventures on the heaving main ; the wanderer delights in the reminiscences of travel in many lands ; and the foxhunter in the stiff bursts and glorious runs of bygone times ; but the sportsman who has visited of the Old World. 211 the Neilgherri mountains and stricken the mightiest denizens of the jungle, muses by day and dreams by night of the dark deep Wynaad forest. Those who have never explored a primeval forest can have but a very faint conception of the mysterious effect that absence of light and intense depth of gloom have upon the human mind. The unbroken silence and utter stillness that everywhere pervades its leafy arches, creates a strange feeling of awe and loneliness that depresses the spirits and appals the heart of those who are unaccustomed to wander in its solitudes ; and even the stoutest heart feels overpowered with a strange sensation he can neither account for nor explain the first time he enters, for the voice of man resounds with a strange and startling echo, and even the very hound whines with fear, and couches close to his master's side, afraid of being left alone. Soli- tude is too insufficient a term to convey an idea of the intensely overpowering sensation of desolation and loneliness that pervades these regions ; yet to the hunter, who is accustomed to sojourn in their deepest recesses, the wilderness is a home which he would not exchange for any other ; and as he roams through its boundless expanse of verdure, with no other com- panions but the silent trackers and his dogs, and no guide but a pocket-compass and certain jungle signs not to be understood by the dwellers of cities, he imbibes certain feelings that cannot be entered into p 2 212 The Hunting Grounds save by those who have themselves experienced the charms and fascinations of " forest life, 5 ' and enjoyed its pure and heart-felt pleasures. To him it possesses a peculiar spell, not to be found elsewhere ; and, far away from the haunts of man, he gives no care to the turmoil and bustle of the busy world but loves to study Nature in her grandest forms, and silent un- sullied beauty, whilst his heart glows with thoughts that bear him untiring company. There is a peculiarly exhilarating delight passing all description in the wild excitement of this life, which dispels all anxiety, and strengthens the mental and physical energies for the ever-changing scene, delights the eye, and gives pleasure to the intellect ; whilst, at the same time, the constant excitement arising from the varied incidents of such a state of existence invigorates the mind and stimulates the powers of thought and obser- vation. The body sustained in continued exertion by constant exercise, enables the hunter to maintain his course for days together through the pathless woods, with that dogged stubbornness and inflexibility which is necessary to ensure success in the pursuit of the game he seeks. He moves noiselessly along, without a care as to what he may encounter, for he has implicit confidence in the power of his trusty rifle ; and his vigilant eye, piercing the shadowy depths of the jungle, leaves no hollow unsearched, for he and his followers are dependent for their subsistence on of the Old World. 213 their exertions in the chase. Nothing is so conducive to the keen development of the senses as the constant exertion of the different faculties during a sojourn in the jungle ; quickness of eye (an indispensable quality in a hunter) and unceasing watchfulness are there attained; habits of observation are engendered, for anything out of the common immediately attracts attention, and the ear is habituated to catch the slightest sound. The hunter should have a thorough knowledge of the habits of the wild animals he seeks, bearing in mind how suspicious they are, and how quickly their attention is attracted by unusual noises, strange traces in the jungle, or even the taint in the air which the presence of man always leaves behind it. The ranger of the forest experiences a thorough feeling of independence and a freedom from restraint in these wilds, that contrasts most favourably with the desagrements of artificial existence, and few of those who are fitted to enjoy it ever quit these scenes to return to civilized life without deep feelings of regret that their unalloyed pleasures are at an end ; and in after life the murmuring of waters and the sighings of the wind through the trees will recall to mind moments of intense interest, and they will ever feel at heart that there is no music so sweet as the wild voices of the woods. All forests are gloomy, but they have their com- parative degrees of shade, and none present a greater 214 The Hunting Grounds diversity of appearance than that round the Neil- gherries. The tall feathery bamboo contrasts most delightfully with the stately teak, ebony, blackwood, and other gigantic trees of the primeval forest, where the air, being confined, is generally close and suffocat- ing. The surface of the ground is everywhere thickly strewn with decayed leaves or dead branches, and underneath the trees may be seen the green of young seedlings which spring up by thousands during the rains, but for the most part pine and die, being deprived of light and heat. The climate on the tableland is about the finest in the known world exempt alike from the extremes of heat and cold, it realizes as near as any land " eternal spring," for its great elevation (8000 feet above the level of the sea) tempers the heat generally felt in these latitudes, and gives the air a pureness and bracing elasticity peculiarly grateful to Europeans after a lengthened sojourn in the scorching plains; indeed if cloudless skies, continual sunshine, and pleasant weather were the only essentials to human happiness, the Neilgherries would be the most likely place to seek it of any that I have yet met with in my wanderings over land and sea. In its peculiar style of beauty nothing can exceed the scenery of the hills. Stupendous peaks, groups of gigantic forest- trees, hanging woods and foaming cascades, alternate with clumps of rhododendrons, of the Old World. 215 covered with crimson bloom, wild camellias, jessa- mines, and high waving ferns, whilst vines and other climbing-plants hang in festoons from branch to branch ; and here and there the landscape is diver- sified with verdant lawns of velvet turf, natural parterres of scarlet geranium, or orchids of luxuriant growth. Where a view of the low country can be caught through an opening in the thick woods, it is equally grand and impressive, for a blue haze spreads over the scene, softening and blending its beauties, and giving it a dreamy appearance peculiarly en- chanting. Wild raspberries and strawberries, noted for their excellent flavour, are to be found every- where in the woods ; and the ferns, buttercups, and daisies that grow on the banks of the numerous rills and burns that flow rippling on every side, present a similarity of appearance that recalls visions of dear old England. Birds of gaudy plumage dart amid the branches, gay butterflies hover about, insects of metallic hue glitter on the leaves, and all nature seems glad in this highly favoured spot. I have never yet met with any hunting-grounds to be compared with the great Wynaad Jungle for diversity of game, which includes elephants, bison, elk, spotted- deer, jungle-sheep, hog-deer, tigers, panthers, leopards, cheetahs, bears, hyenas, tiger - cats, boars, wolves, jackals, wild dogs, porcupines, hares, pea-fowl, jungle- fowl, spur-fowl, partridges, quail, and snipe, whilst on 216 The Hunting Grounds the hills are found ibex and woodcock, which are never seen in the low country. Ootacamund, the principal station, is the most de- lightful place of residence in Hindostan. It possesses a handsome church, well-established club, two first- rate hotels, several handsome shops, which are chiefly kept by Parsees, a well-stocked bazaar, and many hundred excellent houses and bungalows, some of which are perfect mansions. The cantonment occupies a great extent of ground, as, the country being extremely undulating, most of the houses are picturesquely situated on slight eminences, and sur- rounded with large gardens which are generally ex- tremely well kept up. Apples, pears, quinces, peaches, apricots, plums, cherries, currants, and most European vegetables, thrive well; whilst fuchsias, honeysuckles, woodbine, jessamine, clematis, passion- flowers, and geraniums, grow in the wildest luxuriance, and require little care. In the centre of the canton- ment is a beautiful artificial lake, round which is the drive or promenade, the "Kotten Row " of Ooty, where in the afternoon may be seen several hundred Anglo- Indians, either on horseback or in vehicles of every description, from the stylish barouche to the humble " bullock-garree," listening to the band or driving about to gain an appetite for dinner. The Neilgherries being considered among the healthiest spots in Southern India, have been consti- of the Old World. 217 tuted a sanitarium ; and here may be seen invalid officers from all parts of the Madras and Bombay Presidencies, who have obtained leave of absence from their regiments, for periods varying from six months to two years, in order to recruit their health, during which time they draw their full pay and allow- ances, which from some stupid fancy of the East India Board is not the case when they are obliged to return to Europe. The consequence is that Ooty somewhat resembles a fast watering-place, and is ex- tremely gay ; balls, parties, and picnics being of com- mon occurrence. Surrounded by splendid hunting-grounds, it is the head-quarters of sportsmen; for wherever there is anything to hunt that promises sport, Englishmen are sure to set out in pursuit. As a nation we are essentially sportsmen, for the chase in all its branches seems indigenous to the country. Taking, for example, the officers of our army and navy, who are scattered all over the face of the globe, thousands of miles from their native land, we find that neither a burning sun and the enervating influence of a tropical climate, nor an icy temperature, can damp their ardour for field-sports, which, notwithstanding every disadvantage, they endeavour to keep up. Such being the case, it is not therefore surprising that in Ooty there is a well-established subscription pack of hounds for hunting the fox and jackal, besides 2 1 8 The Hunting Grounds several private ones of beagles, spaniels; and cockers for driving the covers. In no part of Great Britain are woodcock more eagerly followed than on the hills, and every year large sums of money change hands in wagers as to what sportsman will kill the first cock. The season begins in October and ends in March, although solitary birds may be found a month earlier or later. On my first arrival, Ooty was very full ; and, as vacant bungalows were scarce, I put up for some time at Dawson's Hotel, where I had every reason to be highly satisfied with the accommodation, for my quarters were extremely comfortable, and the living first-rate : indeed I have seldom come across such a cuisine. There was certainly only another like it on the Madras side, that of the Club of Secunderabad, where the mighty Tatiah ruled the roast. Having all my establishment with me, including my celebrated hunting-gang, which comprised some of the best trackers in the country, my old chum B and I took a snug compact little box called Burnside Cottage, with good stabling, outhouses for servants, and a well-stocked garden ; which was most delightfully situated just below the crest of a hill, and overlooking the glen of the Mala-mund, a village in- habited by the Todas, a strange race of people, who are supposed by some to be a remnant of " the lost tribes." The men are generally above the common of the Old World. 219* height, well made, athletic, and with open prepos- sessing countenances. They have a decidedly Jewish type of nose, large oriental eyes, fine teeth, and oval faces, the lower part of which is generally covered with a fine jet-black beard. They wear no head-dress, but the hair, which grows in great profusion,- is parted in the centre, and flows in curls all round the head. Their dress consists of a waist-cloth and a kind of cotton sheet, which they wear like a Roman toga, thrown over the body, leaving the arms and legs bare. The men are decidedly the finest-looking race in Hin- dostan, having a noble independent bearing, and none of that cringing and fawning obsequiousness which is observable in every other caste of Native. The women are tall and commanding, with figures for the most part faultless ; erect but remarkably graceful, somewhat slight perhaps, but exquisitely rounded ; every line full of softness and beauty, every limb in fine svmmetry, supple, and delicate. The head is peculiarly small and elegant, the face oval, and gene- rally of the Israelitish type. The features are small and finely chiselled ; the mouth beautifully formed, and graced with pearl-like teeth ; the eyes large, lustrous, wild, soft and gazelle-like ; the eyebrows are much arched and finely pencilled ; the lashes very long and full ; the hair of the head abundant, full of natural waves, and flowing in ringlets over the neck and shoulders. Their skins, of a softness beyond 220 The Hunting Grounds that of other women, are of a rich, clear, olive colour, several shades lighter than the men, in conse- quence of less exposure to the weather ; and their hands and feet are comparatively small and beauti- fully formed. They arrive at maturity at a very early age, and it is no uncommon thing to see outside the huts a pretty little girl, under twelve years of age, with an infant on her hip ; but as they arrive speedily to womanhood, so their beauty decays ; at sixteen they are in the prime of life, and at thirty aged, when they retain no trace of their former beauty. The women have a plurality of husbands, the brothers of a family generally marrying one wife, which practice is also common among the Nairs and other castes on the western coast. Their huts are built in the shape of the tilt of a waggon, of bamboos thatched with turf. They are about ten feet long, seven broad, and six high, and the door (the only aperture in the building) is only about two feet square, so that the inhabitants have to crawl in and ' out on all fours. Half-a dozen huts constitute a "mund" or village, which is generally situated on the side of a hill, in the most picturesque spots on the hills. They are a pastoral people, possessing large herds of the finest buffaloes in India ; having a strange language of their own, but no character to express it. The men sometimes wear small gold earrings, and the women silver or brass armlets, and a rude kind of the Old World. 221 of zone, which is worn loosely round the hips. The Toda men call themselves the lords of the soil, and look down with supreme contempt upon the Burghers, another hill race, who are of inferior stature, and cul- tivate the ground, for which they have to pay the former a certain tribute. One morning as B and I were engaged in su- perintending the laying out of a piece of ground as an addition to our kitchen-garden ; a Toda, to whom I had one day paid some slight attention, came to inform us that he had seen a large herd of elk in a wooded ravine about three miles distant. I immediately wrote off to Major S , who had a pack of dogs, and W- , K , C , and B , then staying at Dawson's, informing them of the news ; and in half an hour they all assembled in their hunting-togs at my crib, with two or three other fellows whom they had picked up en route. In the meantime Chineah, my head " shekarry " had mustered the gang, with a dozen extra beaters; and after having partaken of some refreshment we mounted our nags, and, accompanied by horsekeepers and gunbearers, set off for the cover under the guidance of the Toda. An hour's ride brought us to the spot, and, dis- mounting, we reconnoitred the ground, so as to make sure the game had not stolen away. No slots were seen to lead us to suppose this had been the case, so we took post along the edges of the cover, whilst the 222 The Hunting Grounds gang-beaters and dogs descended the ravine by a circuitous route, so as to drive the game up the hill, and force it to break towards that side where we were lying concealed. I also ordered the Gooroo and AH to remain with my polygar dogs on the high ground, so as to be ready in case any of the deer should get away wounded, which afterwards turned out a lucky hit. After nearly half an hour's suspense, certain sounds issued from below which informed us that the beaters and dogs had entered the lower end of the cover, and presently a low yelp told us that one of the pack had taken up the scent. " Hark to old Ponto !" cried the Major, who was ensconced behind a rhododendron-bush a few paces distant from me ; and a smile of contentment gleamed over the time- worn and weather-beaten physiognomy of the old sportsman as he recognised the voice of his favourite hound. " Hush ! hark ! there he goes again. The game 's afoot, take my word for it. He never gives tongue without a cause, so pass the word along the line to keep a bright look-out. There goes Rupert and Gelert chiming in/' Shortly after this prelude, hound after hound opened on scent and took up the cry, until at last the harmonious chorus burst forth from the ravine, and awoke the echoes of the sur- rounding woods. I need not describe to sportsmen the intense excitement and pleasurable sensations this melody raised in our hearts 5 for we knew that the of the Old World. 223 deer were afoot, and each internally wished that they might break sufficiently near to give him a shot. From time to time the crashing of branches informed us that the herd were close at hand, and each pre- pared to raise his deadly weapon, but again and again they broke back. At last an enormous buck-elk, with widely-spreading antlers, summoned resolution to leave the cover, and came tearing through the bushes with mighty elastic bounds some distance to my right, and within easy range of W and K , who let drive double shots with apparently little effect, for he continued his course without relaxing his speed for a moment. I tried to get a shot as he was bounding away, but could not catch sight of him on account of intervening bushes, when the old Major, who was quietly seated on his right heel, with his left knee thrown well forward, and his left elbow resting upon it (the best position for steady shooting), let fly right and left ; and although I could not see the stag, I knew from the double " thuds " I heard that both shots had taken effect " Hurrah ! he 's down, boys !" vociferated the gallant old soldier, as he sprang to his feet, and picked up his second rifle ; but before he could raise it the stag had regained his legs, and a slight undulation in the ground prevented his getting another shot. "Bravo, Major!" I exclaimed; "you 'wiped the youngster's eyes' beautifully, and made a couple of excellent shots, for both were over two 224 The Hunting Grounds hundred yards distant. We will now loose Hassan and AH, and I '11 warrant you they will soon give a good account of the quarry." I accordingly gave the necessary orders to lay in the dogs, when just at the moment I heard a crash in the jungle, and two young bucks with velvety horns, and seven does, broke cover, followed by an old she-bear. I brought down one of the bucks, and three of the does fell before a combined volley, whilst the bear received two or three gentle reminders of our presence that did anything but increase her stock of good humour, for she growled most savagely, and made a serious charge at W and K , who could only give leg-bail, as their rifles were empty. Luckily the dogs caught sight of her, and Hassan seized her by the hind-leg, which brought her up, and gave Ali the oppor- tunity of pinning her by the ear on the opposite side. Both were immensely powerful dogs (a cross between the blood-hound and poly gar), and poor Bruin stood no chance of doing mischief, although she seemed most maliciously inclined. As soon as I came up I called off the dogs, and B gave her a coup de grace be- hind the ear. The beaters and the Major's pack now made their appearance ; and after the dogs had been collected, I laid Ali and Hassan on the trail of the stag that had been wounded by the Major. Large drops of blood marked his course ; and as we were following it up a loud deep bellow in a patch of high of the Old World. 225 fern close at band, that told us the stag was at bay. When we came up we found him covered with blood and foam, struggling desperately with the dogs, who had seized him by the throat and held him fast. His bloodshot eyes rolled savagely as we approached, and he lowered his head as if to make a stroke at us with his horns ; but he was weak from loss of blood, and stumbled, which gave Chineah the opportunity of drawing his knife across his throat, when he made a feeble attempt to regain his knees, but staggered, reeled, and fell, uttering a deep groan. A convulsive tremor passed over his limbs, and all was still. As soon as the venison was broken up, and slung upon poles, we mounted our nags and returned to Ooty, where we all met round Major S 's social board in the evening ; when, after the cloth was re- moved, songs went round, and many animated recitals of hair-breadth escapes and perilous encounters with the grim monsters of the forest were related by the old hands, which caused our sitting to last until a late hour. Just as we were about to separate, W happened to mention something about a cantonment ball that was to take place shortly ; when our worthy host, pricking up his ears, asked if any of us had heard of the direful effects matrimony had upon Geordie S , a connection of his. " He was before your time, but no one who knew could ever forget him, for a better or keener sportsman never breathed.. Q 226 The Hunting Grounds It was a pleasure to see him dashing across country after the grey boar, or hear his merry laugh, pithy saying and jolly song, in the evening, round the camp- fire when the sports of the day were over. 'A change came o'er the spirit of my dream,' Geordie got 4 touched,' was led to the altar, 'tied up;' and I met him again after a lapse of years but oh ! how changed ! The jovial sunburnt face had become long ; his laughing eyes, that once beamed with mirth, shot out melancholy glances; the formerly strong arm had become flabby; and the legs no better than broom-sticks! He received me kindly as ever, but looked, I must own, rather sheepish and glum. After some conversation* in which I brought ' old times ' to his recollection, he brightened up a little, his old smile returned, and for a moment he looked some- what like himself again. It was but a temporary glimmer, for a shrill harsh voice in an adjoining chamber, followed by a smart slap and a lengthened squall, reminded him of his wretched situation ; and as I rose to avoid meeting his (can I say) better half, who was evidently getting herself up for the occasion, he pressed my hand in his old affectionate manner, muttering with a deeply-drawn sigh, *S , my dear fellow, you see the unfortunate mistake I made and what it has brought me to ; take warning, steer clear of wedlock, and you'll be a happy man/ ' I'll be if I don't,' I replied, feeling at the same of the Old World. 227 time a choking sensation, as I mounted my nag, and rode off just as the temptress was sailing into the room." After a hearty laugh at the Major's anecdote we bade him good night, and each made his way home. 228 The Hunting Grounds CHAPTER XV. THE NEILGHERRIES CONTINUED. A NIGHT AFFAIR. News of a tiger. His last depredation. The ambuscade. Lying in wait. A night attack. Exciting moments. The spoiler vanquished. The return. News of ibex, and an expedition to the Koondah range. Ibex-stalking. B 's wonderful shooting. The game nearly lost. The ibex described. Keturn to Ooty. passed most pleasantly on the hills, for the days were spent in exploring parties and field sports of every description ; the evenings in social gatherings, enlivened by the presence of female society; and the nights in deliciously sound repose, which in itself is one of the greatest luxuries an Anglo-Indian can enjoy, for in the low country during the hot season the unsupportably close and oppressive period between sunset and early dawn is more distressing and enervating than the intense heat of the day ; for during this time not a breath of air agitates the branches of the highest trees, candles burn in the open air without flickering, the atmos- phere is suffocatingly close, and unless the punkah of the Old World. 229 is kept continually going the European can obtain no sleep, but tosses about restlessly on his couch, and gets up in the morning feeling as weary, tired, and overcome with lassitude as when he laid down. This want of rest is more trying to our soldiers than any privation or fatigue they may experience during their sojourn in tropical climates ; and of late years officers commanding regiments have been em- powered by the Indian Government to employ coolies to keep the punkahs going day and night during the hot months, which has been found to have an ex- tremely salutary effect. One day I was superintend- ing the manufacture of a batch of " goorakoo " * for my hookah, according to a recipe I obtained from one of the retainers of Mah-rajah Chundalal, the late Dewan of the Deccan, when Chineah came with the * Goorakoo, from the Sanscrit word "goor," sugar, and the Telegoo " akoo," a leaf, is the compound used in the hookah. The following is the best recipe I ever met with : " Take of tobacco four seers (16 Ibs.), common treacle four seers, wood- apple (feronia elephantum) half a seer, preserved apples, plan- tains or pineapple, half a seer, raisins half a seer, and * gool- gund ' (conserve of roses) half a seer. Pound these ingredients well together in a large wooden mortar, adding cardamums, sandal-wood, otto of roses, and spikenard, according as you want it more or less scented. When it is well mixed, and has assumed the consistency of a thick paste, add a seer of dried rose-leaves, then put it in an earthen pot, the mouth of which must be made perfectly air-tight by being waxed over, and bury it for three months, after which it is ready for use. 230 The Hunting Grounds intelligence that a tiger had struck down a bullock belonging to some Mulchers about five miles distant, and after having sucked the blood had left the carcass, which Naga and Googooloo had gone to watch, to prevent its being carried away by the chucklars (shoemakers), or Pariahs (low caste people). B had gone out to reconnoitre some ibex ground on the Koondah range, and as I did not expect him to return until late in the evening I made preparations to start alone. Tiffin eaten, I set out for the spot accompanied by Chineah, the Goo- roo, and a horse-keeper who carried my rifles, and after an hour's ride arrived at a little patch of cultiva- tion surrounded on three sides by dense wood, where we found a fine white bullock lying dead in a pool of blood, with bis throat torn and shoulder dislocated. I saw at a glance that the marauder was a large tiger, for besides the holes made in the throat by his fangs, and the marks of his claws in the back of the neck, which had torn up the flesh in ridges, there were several immense " pugs " deeply im- printed in the soft ground, near which the struggle had taken place. Googooloo and Naga had built an ambuscade in a tree, about ten feet from the ground, which com- manded an excellent view of all approaches from the cover ; but as I did not imagine that the tiger would return to his prey in the earlier part of the evening, of the Old World. 231 and I should not have the advantage of the light of the moon until late, I determined to await his approach at close quarters, and made the gang dig a hole about four feet deep under a low overhanging bush, much overgrown with creepers and parasitical plants, which was about half a dozen paces to leeward of the carcass. By making my place of concealment in the ground, I knew I should have a better chance of getting a sight of the tiger and taking more certain aim in the dark than if I was perched in a tree above him, besides which it seemed something more like fair play. Having lined my place of ambuscade with a carpet, so as to make it more comfortable, I care- fully loaded my weapons, which were two double ten- bore rifles, a double two-ounce gun, and a brace of large double holster-pistols; arranged my comforts for the inner man, consisting of a stone bottle of strong green tea, a flask of brandy, and a huge pile of sandwiches ; and ordered all my followers to return to Ooty, with the horse, excepting Chineah and Googooloo, who were to keep watch in the tree so as to be at hand in case they might be wanted. All being prepared, as soon as the shadows of evening began to lengthen we took post, and during the few remaining hours of daylight I carefully noted every bush and undulation in the ground, so as to be better able to perceive anything in the dark. As the day declined the last rays of an mi- 232 The Hunting Grounds clouded sunset threw a rich purple haze over the whole scene, and the many-tinted foliage of the sur- rounding woods glistened with golden tints in the light of departing day. The tuneful songsters ceased their warbling, and the woods no longer resounded with the sharp strokes of the woodpecker ; but the night-hawk was on the wing, and darted swiftly to and fro after the moths, which at that hour were flitting about in great numbers. The air became redolent with the fra- grance of numberless flowering shrubs, which seemed to emit a double perfume towards the close of day. The evening deepened into twilight, the twilight darkened into night, and the stars with their mild radiance seemed as if they strove to eclipse the lingering rays of sunset. At length the mighty forest became silent, and no sound reached our ears save the occasional chirping of a cricket, the dismal hoot- ing of the horned owl, the howling of troops of jackals, or the melancholy booming of the great hill- monkey. As the night wore on, the tall trees could hardly be distinguished one behind another, as they loomed darker and darker against an indefinable background. Time passed slowly, the night air became chilly, and at last I began to fancy the tiger, having satiated his thirst with blood, had no intention of returning for the flesh (a frequent occurrence) ; so I wrapped of the Old World. 233 myself up more closely in my " combley " (a blanket made of goats' hair, impermeable to wet), and set to work at my pile of sandwiches and cold tea, with occasional nips of brandy, when suddenly I thought I caught the sound of a rustling of leaves followed by the snapping of a dry twig. I set down the bottle of tea I was in the act of raising to my mouth, noise- lessly grasped my rifle, which I raised with the muzzle directed towards the spot from whence I thought the noise proceeded, and listened attentively, but I heard nothing save the palpitations of my own heart that seemed to be thumping violently against my side ; and as to seeing anything, it was out of the question, for the night was so dark and gloomy that I could scarcely even recognise the outline of the dead bullock. A long anxious hour passed and I repeatedly heard the tearing of flesh and crunching of bones close in front of me, but the sky was so over- cast that I could not distinguish anything, although now and then I caught sight of a pair of greenish looking eyes, and heard a low purring. At last, finding there was no prospect of getting a fair shot, I resolved to risk a chance one, and having waited until I again caught sight of his eyes, I gave a whistle which immediately attracted his attention, for he raised up his head, uttering a low savage snarl, and I saw his eyeballs glare as if he was peering through the gloom in my direction. This was the 234 The Hunting Grounds opportunity I wanted I took deliberate aim between the glittering orbs that shone like burning coals, and pulled both triggers almost simultaneously. A hoarse roar followed the double report, which was re-echoed by the distant hills something dark passed over head, and I heard a crashing and rending of wood in the bush immediately behind me, with a loud whine and peculiar grunt which told me that the tiger was hard hit. I grasped my second gun, stuck my pistols in my belt, so as to be ready for immediate use, and turned towards the spot where the tiger appeared to be, at the same time calling to Chineah and Googooloo, to prevent them leaving their post on any account, for I well knew how dangerous a wounded tiger is at any time, more especially in the dark, when he can see and man cannot On receiving the contents of my rifle, he must have sprung clear over the ambuscade, for I heard him struggling in the bush just behind it, grinding his teeth and emitting strange moaning noises. Every now and then he seemed to be moving restlessly about, and at times I thought, from his hard breathing (which somewhat resembled a loud snore), that he was close to me ; indeed I fancied once or twice that I felt the bushes shake, as if he was trying to get at me. Although prepared for all emergencies I remained perfectly quiet, listening intently to his movements, for the darkness was so profound that I of the Old World. 235 could not see my hand before me. Chineah gave a signal to me once or twice, but I dared not answer it lest I should attract the enraged animal's notice towards the place of my concealment. After a lengthened period of anxious and exciting suspense, I heard the wounded tiger heave a long deep-drawn sigh, which was followed by a succession of smothered groans and gaspings for breath ; then came a heavy fall, another violent struggle, a gurgling bubbling sound in the throat as of suffocation, a hollow rattle, and all was still. I knew my antagonist was dead, but to make sure I waited a few minutes before leaving my ambuscade, when hearing nothing I lighted a bull's-eye lantern I always carried about with me, which fastened by a spring to the front of my belt, and rifle in hand I took a cursory view of the bullock, the hinder part of which was half eaten, and then examined the bush, where I found the tiger stretched lifeless on the ground, in some low cover about fifteen paces behind the place where I had been lying in wait. I called down Chineah and Googooloo, who lighted a torch, and we found that both of my shots had taken effect ; the first had struck him in the centre of the forehead, ploughed up the skin, and glanced off the bone ; the second entered the chest and apparently traversed the lungs, for the ground about was covered with blood and froth that had issued from the mouth. He 236 The Hunting Grounds proved to be magnificently marked, although not so large as I expected, from the large imprints of his paws. We now lighted a large fire, wrapped ourselves carefully up in our blankets, and indulged in a brew of hot punch and the " fragrant weed," which never appeared more grateful than on that bitterly cold morning. After some time the summits of the oppo- site hills began to appear more distinctly against a clearer sky, and presently the moon slowly emerged above the horizon, and her silver rays lighted up the whole scene. After having cut off the centre claw of the tiger's right foot, by way of marking the game, we collected the carpets, blankets, &c., and leaving Googooloo on the platform to watch the body, Chineah and I shouldered our rifles and made the best of our way to the bungalow, where we arrived just as the first faint streaks of grey in the East proclaimed that day was about to break. After having given orders to the " gooroo " to go with some of the people and bring the skin, I turned in and enjoyed several hours' refreshing sleep, tiffin being on the table before I made my appearance, when I was warmly congra- tulated on my success by several friends who dropped in to admire the spoils. B gave a very good account of the ibex on the Koondahs, having seen two herds on the summit of an isolated ridge over- looking the low country, which he forebore to follow of the Old World. 237 on account of the weather threatening fog in those altitudes. We determined, however, to make an attempt, and ordered the people to be ready to start with a tent before daybreak the next morning, we in- tending to follow soon after. The following morning B and I mounted our nags soon after breakfast and sallied forth from the glen of the Mala-mund, equipped in suits of drab moleskin, which colour is the best adapted for ibex- stalking, as at a short distance it is scarcely distin- guishable from the bleak crags among which they dwell. The pursuit of the ibex, although an intensely exciting sport, is the most difficult of all deer-stalking, and proves the severest test of the qualifications of a hunter; for not only are these animals exceedingly shy arid watchful, but they are also gifted with remarkably keen sight, and their senses of smelling and hearing are developed to an extraordinary de- gree. From the almost inaccessible nature of the ground on which they are found, he who would take their spoils should be endued with great strength, perseverance, and endurance, besides which he must have the agility of a mountaineer and a steady head, or he can never follow up his game to their haunts along narrow ledges of scarped rocks and beetling heights, where a false step or a moment's giddiness would entail certain destruction. There can be no 238 The Hunting Grounds doubt but that intense excitement takes away all dread of danger, for I have seen it exemplified many times, not only on the hunting-ground but also on the field of battle. The same spirit which animates a " dare devil " in the front rank of the hunting- field at home accompanies him in the van of the fight abroad, and in both cases, if his career is not stopped by "a fall," he will be found " well in at the death." An ardent hunter, like a daring soldier, possesses a mental energy superior to all thought of peril ; for, seeking only the attainment of his pur- pose, he pursues his course with that dogged stub- bornness, inflexibility of purpose, and recklessness of self-preservation that make him invincible and en- sure success in the end. In my opinion, the greatest compliment the British army ever received was when the great Napoleon said that " the men never knew when they were beaten" The saying marked the discrimination of the man, as it was that feeling that gained us Waterloo, Inkermann, and numberless other glorious days ; for our soldiers, in the words of our greatest bard, " Could for itself woo the approaching fight, And turn what some deem danger to delight." But, gentle reader, I crave your pardon for di- gressing, having wandered from my subject by musing upon bygone days and the many hard-fought fields of the Old World. 239 that I have seen won. So now to describe the Neilgherry ibex, which is, I believe, of a species peculiar to the range, differing in many respects from those found on the Himalayas or the Caucasus. In shape they somewhat resemble the common Indian goat, but the body is much shorter in comparison with the height. The largest I ever saw which was killed by B on the precipitous heights of the Koondas, overlooking the low country mea- sured 6 feet 8 inches in length from the point of the nose to the end of the tail, 50 inches in height at the shoulder, and weighed, I should think, over 200 pounds, as it was in first-rate condition, the rutting season not having commenced. The horns are dark olive with black points, about 10 inches in length, ringed, and 4i inches in circumference at the base, gradually diverging until the points become nearly 6 inches apart. These ibex are uniformly of a light ash, deepening to dark brown on the hind- quarters and forepart of the legs, with an almost black stripe running along the ridge of the back. The head is fawn-colour, part of the face being of a rich brown, and the muzzle nearly black. The back is furnished with a shaggy, stiff, upright mane, run- ning along the neck and shoulders, which gradually grows shorter on the hind quarters. The smell of this animal is particularly rank and offensive, and the flesh is scarcely eatable at any time, being so 240 The Hunting Grounds strong-tasted and coarse. Ibex are found in troops, rarely exceeding a dozen in number, amongst the rugged crags of the highest and most inaccessible mountains, their food consisting chiefly of the dif- ferent mosses and short, crisp, delicate herbage indi- genous to great altitudes. A wary old buck who has often quite a patriarchal appearance, is generally chosen as the leader of the herd ; and if he sees anything suspicious, or catches a taint in the air, a peculiar whistle alarms the rest, causing them to collect together and remain on the alert, and on a repetition of the signal away they scamper, always ascending or descending a slope in an oblique direc- tion. Sometimes I have seen an old female lead the herd, and on such occasions I have always found it extremely difficult to get within range, as they are doubly cunning. Six hours' ride over most picturesque-looking country brought us to our encampment, which Chineah had chosen close to a small mountain- stream that took its source in a cavern on the side of a lofty peak, which stood out in bold relief, and towered high above the rest. Its rugged summit, round which wreaths of white fleecy-looking clouds were floating in a deep blue azure sky, had the re- putation of being the most likely ground to meet with ibex, as from its extreme inaccessibility it had rarely been trodden by man, and the game had been but of the Old World. 241 little disturbed. Having taken a cursory survey of the mountain, in order to endeavour to form some judgment as to the best side to commence the ascent on the morrow, we adjourned to the tent, where we found a dinner waiting to which we did ample justice ; and, after making a few preparations, turned in soon after sunset, so as to have a good night's rest previous to the morrow's fag, which we well knew would prove a trying one. Rising at dawn we found the cold severe and piercing ; and, on looking out of the tent door, we saw that the whole range of hills was enveloped in mist, a dense white cloud entirely obscuring the summit of the peak we intended to explore. This was not encouraging, to say the least of it ; but towards sunrise the vapours began to open and disunite, and in the course of an hour portions of clouds separated themselves from the main body and moved slowly and majestically down the mountain, some remaining stationary on its side, whilst others hung suspended over the neighbouring densely-wooded ravines and valleys. Seeing that there was every prospect of a fine day we set out, having each selected our favourite rifles, Chineah only being entrusted with a spare gun, whilst Googooloo, Naga, and Hassan, carried long ropes and short spears, which were to serve us in the ascent as " Alpen-stocks." For some short distance the route was not very difficult, but it soon changed B 242 The Hunting Grounds its character and became full of obstructions ; for we had often to crawl along the smooth slabs of rocks on our hands and knees, and sometimes were obliged to take off our sambur-skin shoes (which were made purposely with very light soles) in order to get a better footing. The scenery was extremely wild, and a solemn silence reigned around, which was only broken at times by the deep grunt of some one of the gang when he came to a scarped rock or gully more difficult than the rest. On slopes here and there the mountain's vegetation was spangled with dew-drops, which sparkled like diamonds in the reflected rays of the morning sun. After a severe fag we rested on a ledge of rock to take breath, and, being from constant exercise in rather better training than the rest, I pushed on a short distance in order to reconnoitre the ground, which seemed to be getting more and more difficult as we ascended. Whilst so engaged I heard a slight rustle, followed by a sound like the rolling of a pebble, and to my surprise saw a fine buck-sambur rise from his lair, just below the boulder of rock against which I was leaning, and gaze majestically round with erected head. I noiselessly took up my rifle, and, as he was leisurely trotting along the side of the mountain, brought the sight to bear just behind his massive shoulder and fired. When the smoke cleared away I saw him stretched lifeless on the ground, shot through of the Old World. 243 the heart. The report soon brought up the gang, and, having little time to lose, we merely hoisted our quarry which proved to be a full stag with fine branching antlers on to a huge boulder of rock, where, having fastened a pocket-handkerchief to one of the tines of his horns to scare away the vultures, we left him until our return. After several hours' clambering over broken ground, scarped rocks, and deep gullies, without seeing any indication of animal life, except a few butterflies, Naga called our atten- tion to something moving along the scarped edge of a high ridge of cliff which frowned like a wall high above our heads, and with the aid of my field-glass I discerned a fine buck-ibex, evidently the sentinel of a herd, poised on a pinnacle of rock nearly half-a-mile distant. As his head was turned towards us, and he seemed to be watching our movements, I took it for granted that our presence was discovered, so I told Googooloo, Naga, and Hassan, to remain quiet where they were, whilst B , Chineah, and myself, made a detour so as to circumvent him. After intense labour we clambered up the face of the cliff, having frequently to crawl along ledges of rock, overhanging precipices down which we dare not look, and with a good deal of manoeuvring managed to get above our wary quarry, who was still apparently intently observing the movement of our party below, whilst seven others, confident in his watchfulness, R 2 244 The Hunting Grounds were carelessly browsing on the short crisp herbage close by. By dodging from crag to crag, after some intensely-exciting stalking, we crept behind an isolated boulder of rock about a hundred and twenty paces to leeward of the herd, who were still grazing uncon- scious of danger ; and, as the nature of the ground was such that we could not hope to steal any nearer without great fear of discovery, we prepared for im- mediate offensive action. Having taken the pre- caution of putting fresh caps on our rifles, B aimed at a fine buck that was carelessly receiving the caresses of a couple of does, whilst I took the sentinel, and firing almost simultaneously both fell to our shots. I wounded a doe with my second barrel, but it got away with a broken leg ; B , however, was more fortunate, for he stopped a second doe with a ball through the spine, and killed a young buck with the second gun. as it was bounding along a ledge of rocks at least four hundred paces distant. "Well done, indeed, Ned !" I exclaimed, rather taken aback with this splendid display of marksmanship ; " that was a shot I envy you for having made, as I have rarely seen a bounding deer bagged at such a distance, not- withstanding I have hunted with the crack sportsman of the day. It would have gladdened old Walter's heart to see one of his pupils do such credit to his 'bringings up." " Yes Hal, it was indeed a long shot, and I could of the Old World. 245 hardly believe my eyes when I saw him drop, but the credit of it, if any there be, must be given to old Purdey, the maker of your rifle ; for never do I think that grooved bore threw lead so true, and I now do not wonder at your luck in bringing down the hatties (elephants) right and left. It 's the gun, man ; it 's the gun ! Look after the game, whilst I pace the distance for my own satisfaction." This was done, and it proved to be five hundred and forty-six paces, or, allowing for inequalities in the ground, about four hundred yards. Whilst Chineah was despatching with his knife the still struggling doe that B had wounded, and B had gone to gather up his game, I went to look after the sentinel, which, to my surprise, was nowhere to be found, although I saw him drop the moment I fired, appa- rently lifeless. Whilst looking about, I crept on my hands and knees towards the edge of the precipice, and, lying my full length, looked over;, when, to my astonishment, I saw the carcass on a narrow ledge of rock jutting out of the scarped cleft about thirty feet from the top. With the aid of my glass I could see that it was a fine specimen with splendid horns, which I determined coute qui coute should not be lost. I scrambled carefully back, and explained the case to B , who advised me to give it up as " lost game," it not being worth while risking life for the sake of a pair of horns ; but I did not like to return empty- 246 The Hunting Grounds handed, and my determination was soon taken, for I despatched Chineah for the rest of the gang. As soon as they arrived, I took the strong silken ropes they carried, on which I made a few knots, so as to enable me to get a better hold, and prevent myself from slipping, then fastening one end securely round the base of an immense boulder of rock, I threw the other down the abyss, taking the precaution of plac- ing my coat and the turban-cloths of some of the people over the rough edge of the cliff, so as to prevent chafing. All being prepared, in spite of the remonstrance of my people, who feared some accident from the snapping of a rope which I knew would sustain a ton in addition to my weight, I commenced the descent, even B turning away, as the thought made him feel giddy. To me it was easy work enough, although I must own that I felt rather nervous as I first swang myself off, and hung sus- pended over a precipice, six hundred feet in depth, by a cord not three-quarters of an inch in diameter, which, not being steadied at the bottom, kept turning round and round, now and then knocking me against pro- jections in the face of the rock. However, my " suspense " was of very short duration, for I soon found firm footing upon the ledge of rock where the dead ibex lay, which luckily turned out to be much wider than I had at first imagined from its appear- ance from, the top. I soon fastened the rope round of the Old World. 247 the buck's head, and on giving the preconcerted signal of a whistle, he was hauled up by the gang, who again threw down the cord for me. I climbed up the rope easily enough, but had great difficulty in scrambling over the crest, as my eyes were nearly filled with sand, which fell from the sides. At last I managed it, and we commenced the operation of skinning, that occupied us nearly an hour, after which we commenced our descent, and taking the head and skin of the sambur en route arrived at the tent just before sunset. During the next five days we hunted over these grounds, bagging thirteen ibex and a couple of bison, a herd of which animals came early one morning close to our tent, after which we returned to Ooty. 248 The Hunting Grounds CHAPTER XVI. ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN THE FOREST AROUND THE BASE OF THE NEILGHERRIES. Trampling his path through wood and brake, And canes which, crackling, fall before his way, And tassel-grass, whose silvery feathers play, Overlapping the young trees, On comes the elephant to slake His thirst at noon in yon pellucid spring." The elephant-hunter's qualifications, "Mighty Hunters." The start. The Coonoor Pass. The trail. Signs of a tusker. The herd. A bull-elephant dies. A cow and calf fall. The bivouac. A NY sportsman who is a fair shot, cool, steady, *-*- persevering, and active, may count upon kill- ing heavy bags of most kinds of game with tolerable certainty ; but he who would slay the elephant in his trackless jungle-home must have other qualities com- bined, or he will fail in his attempt. The elephant-hunter must have a thorough know- of the Old World. 249 ledge of the nature and habits of that sagacious animal, whose keenly-developed senses far exceed that of any other denizen of the forest ; he must be well acquainted with its peculiar structure and ana- tomy, or his bullet, however true, will never reach the vital part with any certainty ; he must be an adept at l \ tracking," or following spoor, and in the understanding of jungle signs, which, although a natural gift to the red men of the Far West and Indian jungle-tribes, is only acquired by intense study and long practice ; he must be patient and enduring, satisfied with hard fare and short commons, as he will often have to subsist wholly upon his gun, with the ground for his bed, and a forest-tree for his canopy. He should feel with the great poet, that "There is a pleasure in the pathless woods," and " society where none intrudes :" for he must often be content with nature and his own thoughts as compa- nions, and he must not let his spirits be depressed by the solitude and intense stillness of the deep jungle. The hunter must sleep like a hare, always on the alert, ever prepared and watchful ; for he never knows what he may meet, or the danger a moment may bring forth. Inured" to peril, he must never be cast down or faint of heart ; or he had better not attempt to follow up the spoor of the elephant to his haunts in the dense, deep jungle, where the rays of the sun seldom penetrate, and the woodman's axe was never 250 The Planting Grounds heard where the deadliest of fevers lurk in places the most beautiful to the eye ; and where, with the exception of certain times in the year, the air and the water are poisoned by malaria, and impregnated by the exhalations of decayed leaves and decomposed vegetable matter, entailing certain death to the hunter, were he tempted to follow up his perilous calling out of season. Notwithstanding the danger of elephant-hunting, it has ever been a favourite sport amongst the cove- nanted servants and officers of the Indian army ; and the names of Oswall, Rogers, Godfrey, Garrow, Michael, and one or two others, are " as familiar as household words" throughout India, on account of their numerous daring feats and perilous escapades. Sometimes herds of elephants are tempted to roam, and leave their homes in the deep jungle to devastate the sugar-cane plantations and rice-fields of the ryots, where they commit great damage ; and on such occa- sions the Anglo-Indian sportsman is enabled to get amongst them without being obliged to penetrate the dense forests so pernicious to health. One evening, on my return to my domicile at Ooty from a very jovial pic-nfc given by P , a sporting collector of Coimbatore, at the celebrated Dodabetta Peak (which rises to the height of 8700 feet above the plains), Chineah, my head shekarry, informed me that a party of Mulchers whom I had of the Old World. 251 sent out to look for game, had come up from the low country with the news that a herd of elephants had been seen near the Colunda nullah, a small mountain- stream a few miles to the north-east of the hills. My gang did not need any orders to prepare ; for, as I entered the garden, I found them all assembled in front of the gate in full shekar costume, ready to start, and many a knowing look and broad grin they gave me as I passed to don my leather hunting-gear and prepare my battery and ammunition. The cylindro-conical bullets of my rifle, as well as the round ones I used in the smooth-bores, were made of a mixture of lead and zinc, which amalgamation I prefer to any other for elephant-shooting, as leaden balls are too soft, and flatten on striking a bone, and brass balls, which are generally used, are too light to carry truly. My preparations did not take long to make, and in the course of a few minutes I mounted my favourite nag, " Gooty," accompanied by Chi- neah, Googooloo, Mootoo, and the Gooroo, carrying my guns, axes, spears, telescope, &c., a couple of Mulchers to show the road, and a horse-keeper, who led a baggage- tattoo, loaded with a large " combley " blanket, which served either as a covering or a tent, as occasion required, a change of clothing, some prog and tobacco. The moon was favourable, being at its zenith as we passed the village of Coonoor, making the night clear 252 The Hunting Grounds as day, and allowing us to enjoy the magnificent scenery of the celebrated Coonoor Pass, where " fern flowers and grasses creep, fantastically tangled," amid gigantic forest-trees, and the graceful bamboo con- trasts with the darker foliage of the wild fig, and thickets of rhododendron and wild camellias. The wave-like looking sea of deep forest was diversified with white lichen-covered precipices, and darkly- frowning crags of every imaginable form and shape, some thousands of feet in height, which seemed to shake their fern-fringed foreheads at the passing tra- veller as he followed the winding road leading down the ravine, every bend of which, like a turn of the kaleidoscope, revealed something new and pleasing to the eye. Upon the summit of a rugged and almost inac- cessible peak, which cast its dark shadow on our path, is the small hill-fort, Hulli kul Droog, built by Hyder Ali, which long since has been abandoned to the birds and beasts of the forest. As I rode along I frequently heard the sharp bark of the elk above the murmur of the mountain-stream, which glistened like silver in the rays of the moon as it glided over rounded masses of granite and smooth angular pieces of green stone, or, leaping in little cas- cades, dashed foaming down the steep ravine ; and at times I distinguished the distant hoarse roar of the tiger reverberating through the woods, which was of the Old World. 253 immediately followed by a dismal howling chorus from a troop of jackals. It was past midnight when we arrived at the bun- galow at Metrapolliam, a village on the right bank of the river Bowani, and, after a few hours' repose, started for the place where the elephants were said to be, just as the first streaks of grey in the East pro- claimed the dawn of day ; and after a tramp of about twelve miles, some part of the way through very dense jungle, we arrived at the huts of a Mulcher tribe, where I left my horse and baggage-pony under the care of the horse-keeper. They could hardly make their way through the bush. The Mulchers gave us to understand that the herd could not be at any great distance, as some of their tribe had seen them the evening before, in a valley close to the foot of the hills, and they had been heard trumpeting during the night. We rested for an hour, and broke our fast by the side of a beautiful little stream, which we followed for some distance, when the Mulcher who served as our guide pointed out to us the spoor of an ele- phant about three days old, and shortly afterwards we came upon the trail of a herd of eight, which I made out to be about twenty-four hours old. It was now noon, and the rays of the sun were in- tensely hot, so we sat down for an hour under a tree, whilst the Gooroo and the Mulcher went to consult 254 The Hunting Grounds with some of the tribe, whom he had left watching the movements of the herd. They returned shortly, accompanied by two other Mulchers, who informed us that they had seen a herd, consisting of a tusker, eight females, and some young ones, passing over one of the lower spurs branching off the Neilgherries the evening before ; and under their guidance we soon came upon their trail, which consisted of several foot- prints of all dimensions, from six to twelve or fourteen inches in diameter. I held a brief consultation with the gang, and it determined nem. con. to follow up the spoor as expe- ditiously as possible ; so we continued on trail through dense jungle, over hills, and almost impenetrable ra- vines, until the sun had almost sunk below the western horizon, when we collected some dry logs, made a fire to keep off the tigers, &c., distributed some provisions and tobacco, and turned in, two keeping watch by turns whilst the others slept, until the moon had risen high enough to enable us to see the spoor, and continue the pursuit. A sloth bear (Prochilus labiatus) and a half-grown cub were descried by the Gooroo as we went along, and a bull-bison was heard bellowing in a thicket close by; but we left them unmolested, continuing our course by the track made by the herd bursting through the jungle, and treading down the brushwood otherwise impenetrable. Huge boughs and branches of the Old World. 255 had been broken off, and trees uprooted or torn up in their passage ; in places they had remained for some time browsing on the young wood, tender branches, and succulent plants, and as we passed a watercourse, it was evident from the marks that some of their number had been rolling in the sand. Here it was I made sure that there was a bull in the herd with large ivories ; for I perceived marks in the bank where he had thrust his tusks under the root of a large jungle-tree, covered with creeping oleastor, full of rich bunches of sour scarlet plums, which had resisted all his efforts to tear up. I saw, from the freshness of the spoor, and other traces which remained, that we had gained very con- siderably upon the herd, and, as we all felt rather fatigued, we lay down to repose for a couple of hours, continuing our course when the day broke. Towards noon, after crossing several densely- woocjed ravines, and rocky hills, where the elephant, in spite of his great weight, scarcely leaves any trace, the spoor being only indicated by a broken leaf, bruised twig, or a lately-upturned stone, we entered some thick bamboo jungle, and here we found a " jheel," or swamp, where they had remained during the night, and which bore traces of having been very recently occupied. The trail was warm. Being inspired with fresh vigour, fatigue was for- gotten, and after having made our way through a 256 The Hunting Grounds wide ravine, and crossed a stony watercourse, where the spoor was certainly not an hour old, at about three o'clock in the afternoon, we began to ascend a long ridge of low rocky hills; a difficult route, one would think, for such unwieldy-looking animals, but the spoor was plain, so on we went ; and after an hour's clambering up a steep and rather difficult ledge of rocks, we arrived at the summit, where I had the indescribable pleasure of beholding the broad backs of the objects of our search, who were quietly browsing, unconscious of danger, under the shade of some tall forest trees. I sent Moottoo, the Gooroo, and the Mulchers to a high peak, by a circuitous route, from whence they would be enabled to watch the move- ments of the herd, should they take alarm. After resting for a few moments to reconnoitre the ground and take breath, and having tried the wind, which was favourable, a light air blowing from them to us, I carefully examined my guns, ascertained that the powder was well up in the nipples, and then stole gently forward, taking advantage of any cover or undulation I could find, until I got behind a thick tree, with a patch of low bush at the foot, from whence I could distinctly see the herd about sixty yards distant. The tusker was standing on three legs, swinging his huge carcass too and fro, and fanning himself with the branch of a tree, which he held in his trunk, and near him two females were of the Old World. 257 reposing, whilst several others were standing a short distance off. I remained a few minutes to make sure that I was well to leeward, and not in any immediate danger of being discovered by their remarkably keen scent, and then making signs to Googooloo to remain concealed, I crept forward with my rifle, followed by Chineah, carrying my other two big guns. After some very careful and exciting stalking I reached a tree about thirty paces from the group, which, unconscious of our approach, were still in the same position, and taking a moment to draw breath, and wipe my eyes from the perspiration which streamed down my forehead, I crept under the cover of some low bush to a clump of bamboos, within pistol shot of the tusker ; which I had hardly reached when I saw that I was discovered, for one of the females sprang up suddenly with a strange wild cry, and rushed a few paces forward, tail on end. The bull also made a simultaneous movement, stretching out his trunk with a grunt to catch the wind, and giving me a fair shot not a second was to be lost I threw up my rifle, took a deliberate and steady aim at the hollow above the trunk (which is about the size of a saucer) in the centre of his forehead, and pulled the trigger; a heavy fall immediately followed, but before the smoke had cleared away, and I could see the result of my shot, the female rushed frantic- s 258 The Hunting Grounds ally forward, nearly capsizing me in her course, and tore up a wild date within three yards of the spot where I was standing. As she did not appear, however, to notice me, but went off trumpeting in an opposite direction to that taken by the rest of the herd, I did not molest her at the time, for I felt too anxious to secure the tusker, whom I found stone-dead, with his fore-legs doubled under him, his hind ones stretched out, and his tusks deeply embedded in the ground with the fall. I had hardly made sure of his being dead when Googooloo called my attention by a signal, and turn- ing round I saw my quondam friend, the female who gave the alarm, helping a young one over some rough ground about a couple of hundred yards distant. As she was going off at a shuffling trot that forbad any hope I might have of overtaking her, I took a steady aim at the young one, hitting it severely and rolling it over ; the smoke had scarcely cleared away, and I had just snatched a loaded gun from Chineah (who ran like a cat up a tree) when down she came on me with a hoarse roar of vengeance. I let her charge to within twenty paces from me, when I gave her a right and left full in the forehead, which stopped her career, and brought her to her knees, and Googooloo, who stood steadily by my side, handed me my second gun, with which I gave her a "finisher" as she was of the Old World. 259 attempting to regain her legs. A convulsive tremor passed over her body, and all was still. I reloaded the guns, and despatched the young one, which could hardly drag itself along, and as there was no other tusker in the herd, I did not care to follow it up further, so I gave directions to Chineah and the rest of the gang, who came up, to build a hut, whilst I and Googooloo went out to try and kill a deer for food ; but after a hard fag our only bag was a large porcupine, a peafowl, a wild cat, and three black monkeys, which 'latter proved very acceptable to the Mulchers. On my return to the gang, I found a very comfort- able hut constructed, a soft bed of leaves prepared, and a tolerably savoury dish ready for me, consisting of an elephant's foot baked in a paste of clay amongst the embers ; after having partaken of which, a large fire was made, and we all sat round enjoying "the fragrant narcotic weed," whilst the Gooroo and Chineah by turns chanted an extemporary song in a very monotonous tone, commemorating the ex- ploits of the day, and all the rest took up the chorus. Being very tired, and perhaps not musically in- clined at the time, I fell asleep, and did not awake until broad daylight the next morning, when I found the gang busily employed with their axes in cutting out the tusks, which weighed ninety-four pounds the s 2 260 The Hunting Grounds pair. This job took them about six hours, so that it was nearly noon before we commenced our homeward route, and late at night when we arrived at the Mulcher huts, where we had left the horses. There we slept, returning to Ooty the night afterwards. of the Old World. 261 CHAPTER XVII. ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN THE ANNAMULLAY FOREST. Coimbatore. News of elephants. A Poojah to propitiate the Hindoo deities meets with no satisfactory results. A court- martial held on the recusant Sawmy. Sentence and execution. The ghost of the injured Sawmy appears to the Gooroo. His threat. The laying of the spirit. Result obtained. The start. M 's hut at Tunnacuddoo. His hospitality. A bison wounded. Taketty. News of a herd of elephants. Our bivouac. A night alarm. Elephants astir. A bull- elephant yields up his spoils. An immense snake caught. We follow up the spoor of the herd. Beautiful forest scenery. Tracking by torchlight. Difficulties surmounted. We swim a nullah. The trail. The herd in view. A bull-ele- phant anchored. A second tusker wounded. A charge. A predicament. A lucky shot decides the day. The result of a pat from an elephant. /COIMBATORE has ever been considered one of ^ the most desirable of our military cantonments in Southern India, not only on account of its prox- imity to the Neilgherry and Annamullay Mountains, and its comparatively cool and salubrious climate, 262 The Hunting Grounds but because it is a single station, where one regiment only is quartered, consequently the duty is extremely light, and " leave " easily attainable. The town itself stands about 1400 feet above the level of the sea, in dry, well-cultivated country ; is neatly built, and consists of twelve wide and well-ventilated streets. Tippoo Sultan, the Eajah of Mysore, occasionally resided in the old palace, the ruins of which are still standing, and built a handsome mosque. The officers' quarters are substantially built and delightfully situated outside the native town, by a lake three miles in length, which in the season is covered with waterfowl of every description, and in the reeds and paddy-fields adjoining snipe are to be found in thousands. To the lover of large game this station offers peculiar advantages, as the virgin forest jungle surrounding the Neilgherry and Annamullay ranges are celebrated as being the haunts of all kinds of large game, besides containing abundance of teak (Sectona grandis), blackwood (Dalbergia sati- folia, box-wood), sandal-wood (Santalum album\ and other valuable timber, which is, however, unfor- tunately too remote from water-carriage to permit of easy exportation. The end of December (when the north-east mon- soon rains are over, and the sun has gained his most southern declination) may be considered the coldest season of the year in all those countries north of the of the Old World. 263 equator, for at this period the range of the thermo- meter in the shade is from sixty-two to eighty de- grees, and the climate is there delightful, the north-east wind proving enlivening and bracing, and at this time the jungle is considered free from fever, the greatest danger to which the Indian sportsman is exposed. I had left my eyrie, " Burnside Cottage," near Ooty, having received information that a herd of elephants were said to have been seen near one of the collector's spice-gardens in the Bolanputty Valley, and was staying with M , who was in the regi- ment then quartered at Coimbatore, whilst my gang went out to gather intelligence. After an absence of five days they returned, their search having proved a blank, no fresh trails having been discovered. As was my general custom before the departure of my gang on an expedition, I had distributed some few rupees to purchase sheep, fowls, &c., for sacrificial offerings to their " Sawmies," so as to propitiate the deities, and bring good luck on the enterprise, and on this occasion it appears that the non-success of the reconnaissance had excited the indignation of the whole gang against a certain stone image of Haniman (the monkey-god) in the neigh- bourhood of the lake, as sheep had been sacrificed, cocks immolated, cocoa-nuts broken, and incense burnt before him, and yet the search for game had proved a failure. 264 The Hunting Grounds I was enjoying a weed after dinner, with M and B , when loud discordant vociferations were heard in the servants' outhouses, and going out to see what was the matter, we found the whole gang hold- ing a court-martial on the recusant Sawrney ; to which we listened, keeping out of sight. The Gooroo was gesticulating in an extraordinary manner, and holding out somewhat in this style : " Soono Bhai (listen brothers), here we are all very tired, with our feet broken, and our legs and arms full of thorns with tramping for five days through the jungle, and all to no purpose, for the elephants, may their fathers be burnt, were not to be found, and we had to come back, ' with blackened faces J before the gentleman and ' eat dirt ' (literally, get abused). Is not this vile conduct on the part of that monkey-faced Saw- mey, to whom we went to the expense of offering sacrifices of sheep and cocks ? Are we to suffer him to laugh at us in our trouble and throw dirt on our beards in this manner ? No, brothers, we will pay him out. Heigh ! Ali Beg, you are a Mussulman, and do not fear the evil eye of a Hindoo sawmey, so take the cursed son of burnt fathers and defiled mothers who has dared to bring all this evil upon us, cast dirt upon our beards, and make the master turn his face away from us, break off his nose and ears, put out his eyes so that he can never find his way back, and fling him into the lake." The whole gang of the Old World. 265 highly approved of this sentence, and amidst the hootings, groans, and expletive execrations of the party, the image was dug up from the spot where it had, perhaps, rested for centuries, and after having been mutilated by Ali Beg, and subjected to the vilest abuse and ridicule, was thrown in the lake ; none of the Hindoos, however, venturing to lay a finger upon it. We slipped quietly away without any of the gang discovering our presence, and after turning over the affair in my mind, knowing the character of my people, I resolved to work upon their superstitious fears to my own advantage ; and some few days afterwards, whilst out deer-stalking, I watched an opportunity, when the Gooroo was separated from the rest of the gang, and approaching tolerably near un- perceived, hid myself under a large mass of parasitical plants, and called out in a disguised low sepulchral voice, " Oh, Perriatumbie, Perriatumbie ! " (his real name, " the Gooroo" being a cognomen given to him by the gang, on account of his having some pretensions to priestcraft and sorcery) "am I not the God Hani- man, whom you and your wretched associates caused to be defiled and thrown to the bottom of the tank ? I am not dead, as you will find, although I have been eight days in the water; I can see you, although Ali Beg tried to put out my eyes; I can hear, although my ears are disfigured ; I can smell your 266 The Hunting Grounds vile carcass, although the end of my nose is off; arid I can hardly keep my hands away from your throat, although they are maimed." At the first sound of my voice the Gooroo tried to make a bolt, but in his mad terror he stumbled over the root of a tree, falling heavily his whole length on the ground, when he began writhing about in a convulsive manner, as if wrestling with some imaginary enemy, groaning and keeping his face covered with a cloth. Taking ad- vantage of his terror, I continued in the same tone of voice, " Oh, Perriatumbie ! are you not ashamed of having so ill-used your good Sawmy Haniman ? Did you not tie seven tails of male elephants shot by your master as a lignum (the sacred thread worn round the body only by the Brahmins) round the image of that pert god, Ganesea ? Oh, Perriatumbie ! my evil eye will always be upon you, and the rest of those who ill-treated me, to work you evil, until I have also a lignum of elephant tails on me, and my wounds are anointed with the fat and blood of many tigers. I want no sacrifices of sheep and cocks, for the price of them comes out of the pocket of your master, on whom be ' blessings and good luck, for he never did me any harm, and must not suffer for your ill-doings. Go and show him the fresh trails of elephants and tigers, that he may kill them, and bring me their spoils as offerings, that I may not destroy you all, as your crimes deserve." I then stole quietly away and of the Old World. 267 joined the rest of the gang, but in the course of half an hour I saw the spell had begun to work, for the people collected in groups, and whispered myste- riously to each other ; and every now and then the names of Haniman and the Gooroo caught my ears, which proved that a great sensation had been caused by this supernatural visitation, which I increased to an awfully exciting pitch by telling them that as I was passing an aspen-leaved Peepul (a sacred tree among the Hindoos) I heard a sweet voice, like that of a young girl, exclaim, " Why, oh ! master, do you hunt in these jungles when the elephants, bound by fate, are waiting for you on the Annamullay Moun- tain, where you can now follow them well, as there is no fever ?" And that although I looked everywhere to find whence the voice proceeded, I saw no one except an old, queer-looking black monkey, which hobbled away out of my sight in a moment. I told this tale with the greatest gravity and command of countenance, and the effect was prodigious the whole gang instantaneously exclaiming, shaking their heads, and nodding significantly at each other, that the voice had only spoken truth, and that we had better imme- diately prepare for an expedition to that part of the country. This was all I wanted; for although at this season of the year the jungle is said to be free from fever, such was the dread of the deadly effect of the malaria of those trackless and unknown forests, 268 The Hunting Grounds that up to this I could never bribe or induce any gang to undertake any very lengthened expedition in those parts, notwithstanding it was known that elephants swarmed, and large game of all kinds was abundant. Having, therefore, attained my object by working upon their credulity and superstitious fears, " I struck whilst the iron was hot," and having con- sulted with B , who proposed to accompany me, the morrow was destined for preparation, and the day after for departure. During the night I heard the shrill notes of the cholera horn and other discordant Hindoo music, and my head servant, Yacoob Khan, a Mussulman, in- formed me that the gang had that evening fed twenty Brahmins, and that they were then performing Poojah (religious ceremonies) in honour of the god Haniinan. The next morning, on my way to the racket-court, as I passed by the lake, I saw the image of the god in its original position, decked out with wreaths of jes- samine, and other fragrant flowers, and gaudily painted with yellow ochre and tinsel. Some of the gang must have had a cool dip during the night, for the water was deep where the idol was thrown in. We were very busy all the next day in getting sup- plies, casting hardened bullets, and arranging our baggage, all of which was carried on ponies or coolies' shoulders, and in the evening, as soon as the moon rose, the traps started, escorted by the gang, for of the Old World. 269 Annamullay, a considerable village about five miles from the ghaut or pass leading up the mountain. B and I rode on at daybreak, and passed the greater part of the day in hunting up villagers who knew something of the hills, in which search, through the agency of the Curnum, or head police authority, we were tolerably successful, as we secured the services of three men, whose employment was hunting in the deepest jungle for cardamums. Under their guidance, we ascended the mountains by a steep pass, extremely difficult for our baggage-animals, and, after a hard day's fag, arrived at the hut of M , the celebrated elephant shot, who had established his head-quarters on a little clearing he had made in the heart of the jungle close to the Tunnacooddoo waterfall. He is the Government agent appointed to collect the revenue of this wild district, and also superin- tendent of the teak-forests, no tree being allowed to be cut without the payment of a certain tax. The timber when felled is allowed to remain on the ground a certain time to season, after which it is dragged by elephants, who are trained for the purpose, down slopes and slides of the mountain to the low-country, were it is collected, and floated down the Ponani Biver to the town of Ponani, on the coast, from whence it is embarked for Bombay, where much is exported for the purposes of ship-building. M 2/0 The Hunting Grounds received us with great hospitality, and gave me a map of his explorings in the surrounding forest. He also deputed six Carders (some people of a wild jungle tribe he has domesticated) to accompany us in our trip. We lighted a huge box-fire outside his hut, and had a good warm, for the night was very chilly ; after which we dined, had a "jaw" as to our future proceedings ; and turned in. The next morning went out after bison, soon found a fresh trail, and M got a shot, wounding a bull, which was found dead some days after by the Carders. He recommended us to go to Taketty, and there build a hut as head-quarters, as it was a famous place for elephants, he having killed five tuskers near there at different times. As the jungle was im- penetrable for our baggage-animals on the top of the mountains, a part of the gang had to go down into the low country, arid ascend the mountains again by a different ghaut. They, however, managed to do this in one day, arriving at Taketty, which consists of three or four wood-cutters' huts, just before sunset. The next day the gang constructed two huts, one for ourselves, and the other for our servants and the ponies, which would have been taken away by tigers in the night had we left them picketted outside. M having some magisterial duty to perform in the low country, could not accompany us, so we bade him adieu, and, under guidance of some of his of the Old World. 271 Carder tribe, joined the gang, whom we found very comfortably established. The next day, sent down into the low country for six bullock-loads of rice and curry stuff, a dozen sheep, a couple of milch goats, and a gross of fowls, for whose reception we prepared places, after which we made a reconnaissance of the jungle round about our hut, near which several old elephant-spoors were distinctly visible, and one of the wood-cutters, who accompanied us, told us that some of his people had seen a herd a short distance from their huts at Cawderpuddy, where they were engaged in cutting timber two days previously. I therefore arranged with B , who was suffering from dysentery, and hardly fit for hard work, that I should start with Chineah, Googooloo, and two others of the gang, early on the morrow, to recon- noitre, leaving him, with the rest of the people, to get everything ship-shape in the huts. Accordingly, at day-break, we started, under the guidance of the wood-cutter, and a couple of Carders carrying axes, provisions for three days, and large comblies, or goats'-hair blankets, to serve as coverings. We soon arrived at Cawderpuddy, where we found about twenty men engaged in cutting timber. Here we learned that a herd of fifteen elephants, amongst which were two tuskers, had been seen quietly browsing in a valley some three miles off, the morn- ing previous, by some women, who had gone there to 272 The Hunting Grounds pick "barjee," a kind of wild spinach, and for the inducement of some tobacco one of the men offered to show us the spot. After a couple of hours' fag through thickish jungle, we came upon an open glade, at one end of which was a swamp, where a sounder of hog were wallowing, and here we found the trail of a large herd, not many hours old, which we followed until the sun began to get low in the horizon, when arriving at a watercourse, I gave the order to halt and prepare the supper, whilst I looked out for a suitable place to pass the night. Being an old forest-ranger, and used to camping out, I was not very particular, ray great object being to secure a flank defence, so as to avoid the possibility of being taken unawares by wild beasts ; and a dry bed of sand, under a high shelving bank, from which projected two high boulders of rock, about ten feet apart, seemed to offer a natural fortress, as by making a huge fire in front we were unassailable from with- out. Chineah and Googooloo spread one of the comblies over two bamboos, so as to form a kind of awning to shelter us from the dew, whilst the Carders collected heaps of dry leaves for our beds, and a sufficient stock of logs to keep a large fire burning throughout the night. Our supper, consist- ing of curry and rice, was soon ready, and dis- cussed ; a cheroot followed, after which the watch was set, arms carefully examined, and we turned in of the Old World. 273 for the night, every one rolled up in a combley blanket. I had slept for some hours, when suddenly I was awakened by Chineah laying his hand on my shoulder, with a significant low whistle, which signal with the gang denoted that " something is stirring." I immediately sprang to my feet on the alert, and, after listening attentively for a moment, heard a loud crackling of bamboos, as if some large animals were forcing their way through the jungle, accompanied by a curious blowing noise, which at first I thought was the grunting of a bull-bison, but shortly after- wards I distinctly recognised the " trumpeting " of elephants, and the continual crashing of trees at no great distance left no doubt on my mind but that a herd was near at hand. I put fresh caps on my guns, for fear the old ones might have been injured with the dampness of the night air, and taking Chineah (on whose pluck I knew I could fully depend) with me to carry my spare guns, I cau- tioned the rest to lie quiet until my return, and sallied forth to reconnoitre. A full moon was nearly at its zenith, so that, except where the foliage was very dense, or under the deep shade of the mighty forest, we had no diffi- culty in discerning our way, guided by the strange noises and frequent crashing and rending of trees, which sounded at times almost as loud as the report 274 The Hunting Grounds of musketry, as these huge denizens of the forest rushed through the thickets, snapping and tearing up everything before them. As we were going along, I heard a rustling and a low hissing, and I felt rather startled by seeing a huge snake, which appeared to be of the boa species, coiled round a date-tree, close to which I had passed ; as, however, it did not appear to move, I left it undisturbed, and, after a tramp of about half-an-hour, arrived at a jheel or swamp, at one end of which was a large pool, where three elephants were amusing themselves by sucking up the water in their trunks and spouting it into the air or over their bodies. After a careful reconnaissance I made sure there was no tusker among them, so I left them unmolested, and crept gently round the shady edge of the cover, taking care to keep well to leeward, so as to prevent their getting wind. Passing the swamp, I entered a rather open bamboo-jungle, when, from the peculiar noises on all sides, I knew I was in the middle of a large herd. I saw several groups of females browsing about, and threaded my way amongst them, with Chineah close at my side, keeping a sharp look-out for a tusker. We were several times very nearly dis- covered, although we kept in the shade as much as possible, and always strove to get to leeward. I had counted sixteen elephants without having distin- of the Old World. 275 guished any with tusks, when my attention was arrested by hearing a low grunt, and on turning a cover of dense thicket, I perceived a stately bull, with a fine pair of " ivories," swinging himself to and fro, whilst a female was caressing his neck with her trunk. I stole gently forward, closely followed by Chi- neah, and, after a little careful and exciting stalking, managed to conceal myself behind a clump of bam- boos near which he was standing, which fortunately was to leeward. I remained without stirring for a few moments, the bull not giving me the chance of a fair shot, although I could have doubled up the female half-a-dozen times over, as I got a full view of her forehead within fifteen paces. At last he swerved round, fronting me, but his head turned towards the female, who just at this moment seemed to have caught scent of us, for she raised her trunk in a very inquisitive manner, and tore down one of the bamboos in front of us. No time was to be lost ; I gave a shrill whistle, which caused the bull to extend his ears, and turn his head in my direction, presenting me with a full view of his forehead. Now was my time ; I took a steady aim between the eyes, and gave him both barrels, right and left, at a second's interval. A hoarse scream followed the report, awakening the echoes of the forest, the huge beast staggered back a couple of paces, and reeled T 2 276 The Hunting Grounds like a drunken man, then his sturdy legs gave way under him, and he sunk to the ground in a kneeling position. I snatched a second gun from Chineah, and fearing he might only be stunned, stepped up to him, and sent a ball crashing into his eye, but it was not required, he never stirred, he was dead. The female who was with him rushed frantically through the jungle, trumpeting, and the rest of the herd, taking alarm, dashed down a densely crowded valley at a pace which defied pursuit. Chineah cut off the tail as a trophy, and after we had examined our prize, whose tusks appeared to weigh heavily, we rejoined the rest of the gang, who were anxiously awaiting our arrival, and once more rolling ourselves in our blankets were soon in the arms of Morpheus. He who sleeps with a forest-tree for his canopy, a stone for his pillow, and the ground for his bed, is not likely to play the sluggard, and I was up and astir as soon as the soft blue light of morning became perceptible along the eastern horizon. A few hours of repose had had the desired effect restoring both strength of body and vigour of mind I awoke full of health, and fit for another day's hard fag. After a hurried ablution in the nullah, I lighted a cheroot, and, guided by my own footprints, proceeded with the gang towards the scene of last night's opera- tions. En route, I perceived the snake which had of the Old World. 277 so startled me in the dark, still in the same place coiled round the date-tree, evidently fast asleep, in a state of repletion. I saw at a glance that it was a beautifully marked "damian," or rock-snake (a kind of boa), which is not venomous, and I determined, if possible, to capture it alive, it appearing an excellent specimen. This was soon effected. Chineah fastened a slip-knot to a stout bamboo, and, passing it over its head, pulled, whilst some of the rest of the gang struck the tail with sticks until it unloosened its coil from the tree, and wound round the bamboo, to which it was tied with the stalks of creepers. It proved about eleven feet in length, and over a foot in circumference. A wicker-basket was soon con- structed, and in a few days it became quite tame, not attempting to escape when handled.* Our captive secured, we soon made our way to the spot where the dead elephant was lying, and whilst some of the gang worked by turns with the axe to cut out the tusks (a tedious and lengthy operation, requiring much care), and others prepared our morning repast, I strolled about with Googooloo, and examined the trail of the herd, in order to ascertain whether there were any other large tuskers in it worth following up. * The author subsequently gave it to A. Bain, Esq., of Madras, who transferred it to the Liverpool Zoological Gardens, where it is now, much increased in size. 278 The Hunting Grounds Our search proved successful, for the troop was evidently much larger than I had at first imagined ; and we found the spoor of a very large elephant, which, from the size, I concluded must be a bull with weighty ivories. From the trail, which I fol- lowed up for some distance, I perceived that the panic, occasioned by my shots, had not been general among the herd, for some of them could hardly have been alarmed, as they had broken off branches and browsed on the young wood, within half-a-mile from the spot where I had killed one of their number. I therefore made up my mind to pursue, and returned to the gang, to hasten them in their woi;k so as to be sooner on their heels. The tusks, which weighed about 70 Ibs., were cut out, and, with the snake, given in charge of Mootoo, Verapah, and three of the Carder ribe, for conveyance to the hut, to which I intended to return on the close of the present expedition. After a couple of hours' tracking, we came to a purling mountain-stream, meandering through dense forest-jungle, where we filled our " mushucks " (large leathern bottles), in case of not meeting with water further on, and continued our course, the spoor leading along the bank. As we advanced the woods became more and more open, here and there alternating with beautiful green glades, which much reminded me of the park scenery of the Old World. 279 of "merrie England." On every side were clusters of magnificent teak-trees, interspersed with peepul, jack, and acacia, their branches twined with wild vines, and covered with bunches of deliciously-sweet purple, or rather nearly black, grapes, many coloured corivolvuli, or other beautiful flowering parasites. It was a wild garden of Nature's own planting, and struck with the strange and almost supernatural beauty of the scene, I sat down to contemplate her handiwork. Every sense was gratified. The eye wandered with delight through numerous vistas amid the foliage, and on verdant glades, diversified with parterres of orchids, in full bloom, of every hue and shade, whose presence filled the forest round with fragrant aroma, and loaded the breeze, which was delightfully cool as it played round our heated temples, with pleasant perfume. The bulbul (the Indian nightingale) vied with the other feathered songsters in melody, soft, clear, and harmonious; and for some moments I felt so struck with the transcendent beauty of the scene before me (so like what I imagine the garden of Eden must have been) that I became absorbed in thought imagination, for the time, led me away, and even the elephants were forgotten : short- lived sensations, almost instantaneously passing away, for my eyes soon returned to earth, and my reverie was broken by Chineah laying before me several bunches of delicious grapes that grew temptingly on every side. 280 The Hunting Grounds After having rested some little time, Googooloo and Naga took up the trail, and we continued the pursuit. As they pressed forward, with bodies half- bent and eyes gliding along the ground, they re- minded one of hounds running by scent ; but, unlike these, the trackers made no noise, seldom or never speaking when on trail, and then only in a subdued whisper. Tireless, used to constant warfare with the elements and struggles with the wild denizens of the forest, as the bloodhound loves the trail so did they, and hunger, thirst, weariness, all must be felt to an extreme degree before they would give it up. We continued the pursuit for many long and weary hours, until at last night set in and arrested our pro- gress, as the spoor was no longer to be discerned. Halting simultaneously, we held a brief consultation as to what was best to be done, and, after some deliberation, my gang, who were all men of jungle experience, and well-versed in forest signs, were unanimous in their desire to follow up the trail by torch-light, for it was yet early in the night, and many hours must intervene before we should have the light of the moon, as it would riot rise until nearly midnight, and during this time the herd, which, from the freshness of the spoor, were evidently not very far ahead, might travel a long way. I therefore determined to be at once on their heels, and lighting a large bull's-eye lanthorn (which one of of the Old World. 281 the gang always carried) and branches of dry resinous wood, we continued the pursuit, following the trail almost as fast as before. I counted that we should get over many miles before morning, and perhaps even come up with the herd ; at any rate, we might expect to fall in with them before the next night. Notwithstanding we were tired and hungry, we did not linger, but followed up the spoor with every pre- caution, keenly scrutinising the ground in advance of us, in the hope of perceiving the objects of our search* After some time we descended into a deep valley, and there encountered an obstacle that proved not only a serious barrier to our progress, but almost brought our tracking to a termination. This was a tract of dense bamboo-jungle, with thick underwood, which we could hardly penetrate without the constant use of our axes. Our lights also proved very insuffi- cient, and for several long weary hours we followed the trail, the greater part of the time crawling on our hands and knees. At last the long-wished-for moon shone forth, lighting up the forest with her cheering rays. Darkness passed away, and the night became clear as day. Extinguishing our torches, on we pressed with renewed vigour. The roar of water sounded in our ears from the direction towards which the trail was leading us, and after a short time we came to a for- midable torrent, which, freshened by recent rains on 282 The Hunting Grounds the mountains, came tumbling down its rocky bed in a succession of foaming cataracts. To my surprise, I found from the spoor that the herd had crossed, although by what means was not evident either to myself or any of the gang, as the stream was extremely rapid and appeared too deep to be forded. Here and there, among the boiling frothing eddies, broken rocks of greenish hue were seen above the surface, but they were only the crests of large boulders, and between them the stream ran dark and rapidly. How the young elephants, of which there were several in the herd, had managed to get over I could not imagine, as no swimmer, however strong, could have stemmed the torrent for a moment; he must have been swept down and dashed to pieces against the rocks. At last I bethought me that perhaps the " fresh" had come down only lately, and that the herd had crossed before he torrent became so swollen, and by placing sticks by the edge of the stream I found my opinion was correct, and that the volume of water was still increasing. This was certainly not satisfactory, to say the least of it, but " Never say die " was ever my motto, and we knew the elephants were on the other side, and that if we intended to be amongst them, we must go too. How ? was the question* To cross where we were was impossible, but after some reconnoitring we found that below the falls the current of the Old World. 283 ran much less rapidly, forming a kind of pool about a hundred yards across or more. This was not the first time that either I or my followers had crossed a river without a ford, and many a stronger current had I stemmed in my time than that then before me ; the only difficulty was to get the guns arid ammunition over dry. After a moment's consideration, I made the gang collect a number of dry logs and bamboos, and with the aid of the stalks of creepers, which served as ropes, I tied them together and made a small raft, on which I securely tied the guns, tools, &c. I then stripped, and throwing my clothes on the top, cau- tiously entered the stream, and by laying hold of the raft, with the assistance of Chineah and Googooloo, pushed it before me. Plunge, plunge, plunge, I heard behind me, until the last of my gang had taken to the water, and was swimming silently to a smooth ledge of rocks on the opposite side, where, one after another, we landed, donned our togglry, and made sure that our arms had not got wet ; after which we clambered up the bank, and by keeping along the stream soon recovered the trail. Feeling considerably refreshed with our bath, we made short work with what little cold provision we had left in our wallet, and forgetting our fatigue, once more pushed on at a rapid rate. Hours rolled by, and daylight found us still on 284 The Hunting Grounds trail; hunger, fatigue, and weariness were all for- gotten in the excitement attendant on the pursuit, for from the freshness of the spoor, and other unmistake- able signs, we knew the herd could not be far distant. The utmost care was now necessary in following up the trail, as the slightest noise might have given the alarm : indeed, I felt apprehensive lest the elephants should get wind of us, as their senses are more acute in the early part of the morning than at any other time. We had crossed a broad belt of open teak-forest, and were once more in dense bamboo-jungle, when suddenly I saw Googooloo, who was half-a-dozen paces ahead, make a stand and turn his head as if to catch a sound ; a low grunt (a sign of satisfaction) was followed by an expressive hiss (his ordinary mode of attracting attention), and then I felt as sure that game was afoot as any English sportsman could be on seeing his favourite dog point. I laid my ear to the ground but heard nothing, and the jungle was too thick to allow me to see any distance round ; I therefore carefully followed up the spoor, creeping along as cautiously as possible, when again one of Googooloo's peculiar sounds attracted my notice, and after listening attentively a few moments, I heard a distant, low, rumbling noise, which I immediately recognised as being that made by elephants from the water rattling in their stomach. of the Old World. 285 I ordered Chineah and the rest of the gang to halt, and having looked to the powder in my nipples, and made sure of the direction from which the sounds proceeded, stole noiselessly forward, accompanied by Googooloo only, who carried a couple of spare guns. We soon came up with the rearmost of the herd, a group of five females, who were browsing upon the young and tender shoots of the bamboo and other succulent plants which abounded in that part of the jungle. As they were beneath my notice I gave them a wide berth, and Googooloo and I separated, in order that we might have a better chance of finding the trail of a bull. I soon came across a spoor larger than any of the rest, and Googooloo not being in sight I followed it up alone. After half-an-hour's tracking, in which 1 passed a young male and three other females, I saw a huge tusker standing alone by several large boulders of rock, against one of which he was rubbing his hind- quarters. Immediately I caught sight of him I dived into the deeper jungle, and, by making a circuitous route, got well to windward of him. I then regretted that Googooloo was not with me, as I had no spare gun, and I felt nervous lest my prey might escape. How- ever, there was no help for it, so after carefully re- connoitring the ground, in order to avail myself of any cover it afforded, I crept forward on my hands 286 The Hunting Grounds and knees, and, after a few minutes' intensely exciting stalking, managed to ensconce myself behind a low ledge of rock, from whence I could observe every motion he made. He was standing on three legs, the off hind-foot being raised from the ground, and leaning carelessly against the other, whilst the fore-part of his body was swinging to and fro. Although he was not more than twenty paces distant, I could not get a fair shot, as his head was turned directly away from me. I waited nearly ten minutes for a chance of his altering his position, during which I had ample time to ad- mire his stately proportions and magnificent tusks, but he never moved an inch. I could not get round in front of him on account of the wind, and as I did not like to risk the chance of losing so fine a fellow by an uncertain shot that might not prove mortal, after a few seconds' deliberation I determined to try another plan, which, as I had not a spare gun, was attended with considerable danger. I examined the ground carefully, so as to be pre- pared in case I had to make a run of it, and then taking off my leathern gaiters and extraneous cloth- ing, so as to have my limbs as free as possible, noise- lessly crept on my hands and knees behind him, and placing the muzzle of my gun almost close to the centre of the hind-foot which was raised, I pulled both triggers almost simultaneously and sprang out of the Old World. 28? of the way. A shrill shriek of agony followed the double report, and I just escaped a ferocious blow aimed at me with his trunk, being, fortunately, out of reach. I ran round to the back of the rock before I ventured to look over my shoulder, when, finding he was not on me, I reloaded as quickly as possible ; this done, I felt secure, and again approached the scene of action. I found my plan had proved completely successful, for my antagonist was entirely disabled. My gun (which was a double two-ounce smooth-bore, by Westley Richards) had been heavily loaded, having about six drachms of powder in each barrel ; and the bones of the foot were so completely shattered by the double shot, he could not put it to the ground, and every time he attempted to make a step forward he fell heavily. He must have suffered intense agony, for he uttered most piteous cries between his bursts of rage. As I approached he strove to charge with a shriek of despair, but he fell heavily to the ground, and, as he was rising to his knees, I stepped up and discharged both barrels into the hollow over the trunk, the contents of which, penetrating the brain, he fell " never to rise again." After having taken a cursory survey of " the spoils of the fallen," and made an estimate in my own mind as to the probable weight of the ivory, I hastily re- loaded and retraced my steps towards the spot where 288 The Hunting Grounds I had left Googooloo. A shrill whistle twice re- peated soon brought him to my side, and I learnt that my shots, being so far distant, had hardly dis- turbed the herd, for most of them were still browsing in the same place. He showed me the spoor of another bull, which we followed for nearly a mile up a narrow ravine, or rather gorge, in the mountain, where we found him drinking in a rocky nullah, and accompanied by two females. After having watched his movements for a few moments, I saw that it was advisable to gain the opposite bank, as it was much higher and afforded good cover. This I ac- complished, after some trouble, for the underwood was very thick, by making a circuitous route, crossing the stream some distance to leeward, and creeping along the banks of the nullah until I got behind a tree, about thirty paces from the group. Although I kept well under cover, I could see from the elephants' movements that their suspicions had been aroused, for they kept sniffing about with their trunks as if they were aware that " there was something strange in the wind." At last the bull moved forward a couple of paces and stretched out his trunk, as if to discover from whence the taint in the air proceeded, at the same time fully presenting his broad forehead to my view. This was the opportunity I sought.' I took a steady aim at the vulnerable spot, just over the root of the I of the Old World. 289 trunk, and dropped him with a single ball, like a rabbit riddled with buck-shot. The females, taken aback at the fall of their com- panion, rushed trumpeting down the stream, when just at this moment a cry from Googooloo attracted my attention to a crashing of underwood in the jungle close at hand, and I had hardly time to snatch up my second gun as a mighty bull and seven females dashed hurriedly past at a distance of about fifty paces. I threw up my rifle, and, aiming behind the ear, let drive a couple of snap-shots for the chance of stopping him, the last of which took effect, for it brought him to his knees; but he immediately re- gained his legs, and, separating from the females, tore frantically through the forest, which he made resound with his angry roar. I snatched my second spare gun from Googooloo (a heavy two-ounce double rifle), and, jumping down the bank, ran with all speed to cut him off at the gorge, which was extremely narrow, as the torrent made its way between a huge cleft in the rock, through which I knew he must pass in order to join the rest of the herd. I was running down the bed ot the stream, on either side of which rose high banks, when I heard a rattling noise among the stones be- hind me, and on turning my head I saw the wounded bull tearing after me, with his eyes flashing fire and his tail straight on end, about forty paces distant. 290 The Hunting Grounds Speed I knew would not avail me ; he would have been down upon me before I could have clambered up the bank, so I swung round and dropped on my knee, to take a more steady aim. On he charged with a fiendish shriek of revenge ; I let him come to within fifteen paces, when I let drive, aiming between his eyes (my favourite shot) ; but whether it was that I was unsteady, being breath- less from my run, or that my rifle, which weighed six- teen pounds, was too heavy, I know not ; but my left arm dropped the moment I pulled the trigger (not from nervousness, for I was perfectly cool and never lost my presence of mind for a moment), and my shot took effect four inches too low, entering the fleshy part of the root of the trunk instead of penetrating the brain. It failed to stop him, and before I could get out of the way the huge brute was on me; I saw something dark pass over me, felt a severe blow, and found myself whizzing through the air ; then all was oblivion. When I came to, I found myself lying on my face, in a pool of blood which came from my nose, mouth, and ears. Although nearly choked with clotted gore, a sense of my perilous situation flashed across my mind, and I strove to rise and look after my antago- nist, but he was nowhere to be seen. I picked myself up, and although fearfully bruised and shaken, found that no bones were broken. I was of the Old World. 291 lying on the top of the bank, although quite unable to account to myself how I got there.* In the dry bed of the nullah I saw my rifle, and after much painful exertion managed to crawl down and get it. The muzzle was filled with sand, which I cleared out as well as I could ; and then, sitting by the edge of the stream, began to wash away the blood and bathe my face and head. Whilst so employed I heard a piercing shriek, and saw Googooloo rushing towards me, closely followed by the infuriated elephant, who was almost mad from the pain of his wounds. Luckily a hanging branch was in his way, and with the agility of a monkey he caught hold of it, and swung himself up the steep bank, where he was safe. The elephant, baulked of his victim, rushed wildly backwards and forwards two or three times, as if searching for him, and then, with a hoarse scream of disappointment, came tearing down the bed of the nullah. I was directly in his path, and powerless to get out of the way. A moment more and I saw that I was perceived, for down he charged on me with a fiendish roar of vengeance. With difficulty I raised my rifle, and, taking a steady aim between his eyes, pulled the trigger it was my only chance. When the smoke cleared away I perceived a mighty mass * The elephant must have flung me a considerable distance with his trunk, as the bank was upwards of six feet high. u 2 292 The Hunting Grounds lying close to me. At last I had conquered. Soon after this I must have sunk into a swoon, for I hardly remember anything until I found myself lying in my hut, and B leaning over me. It appears that Chineah and the gang had carried me in on a litter, and finding my body very much swollen from the severe blow I had received, my back being black from the waist upwards, had applied a native remedy, and covered the bruised part with leeches, which had the effect of counteracting the in- flammation, although I shall carry their marks to the grave. As it was, I was entirely laid up, and had to return to Oooty to recruit. B sent a part of the gang to fetch in the ivory, which altogether weighed nearly three hundred pounds not a bad bag for three days' " shekar." of the Old World. 293 CHAPTER XVIII. THE GREAT ANNAMULLAY FOREST. TIGER- HUNTING. Our plan of operations. The hunting-grounds. Preparations. The journey. Jungle travelling. Our bivouac. A lonely glen. Signs of game. The ambuscade. Forest signs and jungle melody. Googooloo gives tongue. The spoiler spoiled. An unexpected rencontre. A wounded tigress. Her retreat stormed. Fatal accident. Retribution. The Shekarry's grave. COWARDS the latter end of May, having become somewhat weary of the commonplace routine of ordinary cantonment-life in Ootacamund, I deter- mined, before the monsoon broke, to have a fortnight's hunting with my old chum B , in that immense tract of virgin forest which lies to the south of the Neilgherri mountains, and extends over the Anna- mullay range, and along the western Ghauts. This region, which in the most recent maps is still left blank as an "unexplored district," is one continuous wilderness of mountains and dense waving forest, veined with broad rivers and streams, extending over 294 The Hunting Grounds an area of several hundreds of square miles, inhabited only by a few wild, uncivilised tribes, said to be the aborigines of the country, who for ages have shrunk from intercourse with the rest of the world, living in hollow trees or caves, and subsisting upon wild fruits, jungle-roots, and such small animals as they can bring down with their arrows. These woods, in which the sound of an axe is seldom heard, are the haunts of the largest denizens of the forest. Here vast herds of elephants and bison (Bos gaurus) wander through the leafy solitudes unmolested; and tigers, panthers, and bears are so numerous, that after nightfall they may be heard in different parts of the jungle howling and calling to each other with those peculiarly wild and deeply melancholy intonations which appal and strike awe into the hearts of those who are not accustomed to such serenades. The natives in this part of the country have a strange superstition about these hunting grounds. They say that in the inmost recesses of the forest, where the eye of man has never yet penetrated, there is a lake, to the banks of which elephants, when they feel the approach of dissolution, go to die. Perhaps this popular belief may in some measure be accounted for by the fact, that the body of an elephant that has died a natural death has rarely, if ever, been found in the woods. Some say that the remains of the dead are buried by their companions in the herd. of the Old World. 295 Hunting trips being everyday occurrences, but little time was required for preparation either by myself or 1 my companion. I examined my battery (which consisted of a pair of double rifles of ten-gauge by Purdey, a pair of double smooth-bores by Westley Richards, carrying two-ounce round balls, and a couple of fowling-pieces), and saw that all were in perfect order, and fitted with ammunition. I then paraded my " Skekarries," or hunting-gang, which comprised Chineah, Googooloo, Naga, Veera- pah, Hassan, the Gooroo, Ali, and Ramasawney, eight stalwart fellows, all well tried and true, and inspected their hunting-gear, clothing, and equip- ments, so as to make sure that all were in perfect marching trim, and fit to commence a jungle cam- paign. My baggage ponies having been re-shod, then passed muster with their burdens, consisting of a small hill-tent, carpet, blankets, cooking- apparatus, rice-bags, &c., and finally my dogs, four huge crea- tures, any two of which would bring a bear to bay, or a hog to a standstill. In the mean time B paid a visit to Framjee's celebrated emporium for what the French term " co- mestibles" and filled out two pairs of large " cowry " * baskets, with everything necessary for the support of * Round wicker-baskets, which are slung at each end of a bamboo, and carried over the shoulder. v 296 The Hunting Grounds the " inner man," at the same time engaging a couple of stout Coolies to carry them. All being in readiness, I gave orders to Chineah my head (shekarry) to proceed at once, with the gang, guns, and baggage, to a hut I had built on a previous hunting expedition at the top of the Taketty Pass, which was four marches from Ooty, and there await our arrival. Although this was the hottest season of the year, the temperature on the table-land of the Neilgherri Hills was rarely much over 80, but knowing from experience that it would be at least 40 higher in the plains, we determined to get over that part of the journey by night, in palanquins, with posted bearers, so as to avoid any unnecessary exposure to the sun, and get fresh to our ground. Having made arrangements with the police Ameen to this effect, on the next day but one after the de- parture of our people, we left my snug little domicile, Burnside Cottage, at about three in the afternoon, arriving at the travellers' bungalow, in Metrapol- lium, at the foot of the Coonoor Pass, by sunset, dined, and afterwards proceeded to Coimbatore, where we remained only a few minutes, and again started for the Annamullay Hills, the base of which we reached by 10 A.M. Here, to my surprise, I found Chineah, the Goo- roo, and one of B 's followers with our rifles, who of the Old World. 297 informed us that they had come across a couple of Mulchers (a jungle tribe), who had taken them to a ravine alive with game of all kinds, which they begged we would try before ascending the Ghauts. At first I did not care to alter my former plan of exploring the table-lands of the Annamully range, but after a consultation with B , it was resolved to follow Chineah's advice ; so, having donned our hunting- gear, we dismissed our bearers, who returned with the palanquins to Ooty, shouldered our rifles, and struck off by a jungle-track leading along the base of the hills. The heat was intense in the extreme, and we per- haps felt it the more, having so lately left the vernal freshness of the hills ; but signs of game were to be seen on every side, which encouraged us to proceed, and after what B called " a moist tramp " of nearly four hours, we arrived at the dry bed of a mountain torrent, which we followed for nearly three miles through a narrow gorge between two densely-wooded hills. During this part of our route we were entirely sheltered from the oppressive beams of the sun by overarching trees, which were so densely covered with convolvuli, and similar delicate climbers of every colour, as to form an impervious shade overhead; indeed, it seemed as if we were traversing a vast leafy bower. At last, after a good hour's clambering over huge 298 The Hunting Grounds boulders of granite, ledges of rock, and loose shingle, we came to a bed of sand, where we recognised the pugs of two full-grown tigers, and innumerable slots of deer, hog, and jungle-sheep. Here, from a small open glade in the forest, I got a glimpse of our route, and found that we were approaching an apparently insurmountable barrier of mountains by a ravine so deep that nothing but the cloudless blue sky was to be seen overhead ; whilst on each side frowned per- pendicular cliffs and stupendous peaks, so high that it strained the eye to look upwards to their summits. Whilst we were admiring the impressive grandeur of the scenery, a dull roaring, like distant thunder, caught my ear, and on inquiry Chineah informed me that the sound proceeded from a cascade near which we were to bivouac. Having rested for a few minutes, we again pushed on, and shortly afterwards fell in with the rest of the gang and a party of Mulchers, who were busily engaged in the construction of a bamboo hut under an overhanging rock, which formed an impervious shelter against the piercing beams of the sun. Feeling exhausted with our fag, after having paid a visit to B 's investment in the cowry-boxes, and partaken of sundry refreshing drinks, we resolved to look out for a suitable place for a bathe, and strolled along the tortuous and winding bed of the watercourse for a short distance, until we came to a huge plateau of the Old World. 299 of granite overlooking a wild, rocky glen, or cleft in the mountain, which looked as if it had been torn asunder by some convulsion of nature, for on three sides rose perpendicular cliffs, so high that the gigantic forest-trees which fringed the scarped edge of their summits looked diminutive as ferns. From the rugged side of one of these giddy heights, a mountain-stream came gushing down, roaring like distant thunder, as it fell foaming and boiling upon massive boulders of rocks below, and causing a misty vapour to arise, in which numberless mimic rainbows appeared and vanished with magical rapidity. At the base of the fall was a clear pellucid pool, about two hundred yards in diameter, surrounded by live rocks of gray granite, rising high above the water's edge, except upon the side near which we were standing, where there was a shelving bank of sand. "What a glorious place that is for a dip, in the shade of those overhanging rocks !" cried B , after we had gazed for some moments upon the romantic beauty of the scene. " Yes," I replied, " if we are sure that it is not infested with ' muggers ' (alligators), but I must confess I should not like to venture the first plunge until I have made a careful examination of the bank, for I never saw a more likely-looking spot for such kind of vermin." "You do not say so," replied he. "By Jove! 300 The Hunting Grounds how lucky it is that you are with me, for had I been alone, I should most assuredly have taken a header into that clear part without ever dreaming that such horrid brutes could be concealed in so lovely a spot." " I have often met with them in such places," said I. " However, we can soon find out if there are any trails or prints of their claws upon the sand, where they are most likely to bask when the sun enters the ravine at mid-day, and if we do not find any, we will send in the dogs to make sure ; but until this has been done I should advise you to confine your ablu- tions to ' chatties' (earthern pots) of water on shore." So, sending Chineah for the dogs, we clambered down the rock and strolled by the sand along the edge of the water. Here we saw the fresh pugs of two tigers, a cheetah, and several bears, besides the old spoors of elephant and bison, with innumerable slots of different kinds of deer, including the " Sambur " or black Rusa deer, commonly called the Indian elk (Rusa Aristoteles), the " Chetel" or spotted-deer (Cervus Axis), and the " Muntjac " or jungle-sheep (Cervus Muntjac) ; besides the marks of a sounder of hog, a pack of jackals, pea- cocks and jungle-fowl ; but I could not distinguish any trail of alligators. It was evident that this was the place where most of the wild animals of the surrounding jungle came to slake their thirst, so I determined to build a moat, of the Old World. 301 or place of ambuscade, on a huge isolated boulder of black rock which commanded all approach to the water within easy range of our rifles. As the sides were scarped we had some trouble to get to the top, which was covered with bush, thorny brambles, and creepers, but with the aid of our axes we soon cleared a space sufficiently large for three or four of us to lie down at full length, on which we constructed a kind of hut, by stretching a "combley" blanket over poles, and covering the outside with creepers, so as to make it resemble a bush from below, leaving loopholes all round to fire through ; we then manufactured a rest for our rifles, and a bamboo ladder to go up and down more easily, after which we carpeted the interior and furnished it with a couple of mattresses, pillows, and sundry refreshments. Whilst we were busy preparing our ambuscade, a young buck spotted-deer came out of one of the " runs " leading towards the water, within pistol-shot distance, and was leisurely proceeding to drink, when he caught sight of some of our people down below, which startled him. He stopped, threw back his head, pawed the ground, and coolly retraced his steps, apparently but little alarmed at the sight of man. Had our rifles been near at hand, he might not have got back so easily, for venison is always desirable, especially when there are many mouths to feed. 302 The Hunting Grounds I forbade any of our people to go near the pool, on the side frequented by the jungle animals, but made them draw what water they required in leathern buckets from the rocks, fearing lest their footsteps might betray our presence. ^Our work being completed, we had a refreshing bath and adjourned to the hut, where we saw the stores distributed, so that each man received his allowance of meat, rice, curry-stuff, " ghee " (clarified butter), and tobacco. Having dined, we inspected the arrangements that had been made for the comfortable housing of our people and baggage-animals, and then returned to the ambuscade ; Chineah, ISTaga, and Googooloo accompanying us, to keep a look-out for game, as we ourselves felt too fatigued with our day's fag to depend much on our own watchfulness. As a light air was blowing from us across the water, and we were perfectly concealed from view, some ten feet above the level of the ground, there was no danger of the scent of tobacco being " winded" from the jungle, so we lighted our cheroots (a most unorthodox proceeding when lying in ambuscade for large game) and amused ourselves with observing the different species of animal-life that frequented that lonely spot. The margin of the lake was visited from time to time by different kinds of aquatic birds and waterfowl, of the Old World. 303 amongst which I noticed a flock of flamingoes with their magnificent rose-coloured plumage, stately pelicans, besides ibises, storks, herons, egrets, plovers, sand-larks, and crows, which latter birds assembled in noisy groups and seemed to revel in the luxury of a bath. A toucan, with its awkward flight, was seen wending its way from tree to tree in search of the reptiles and small birds on which it feeds, and a jungle-cock, whose plumage gleamed like gold in the rays of the declining sun, came with his consorts and scratched up the ground for food within a dozen yards of our hiding-place. Each period of the day has its accustomed visitants, every hour has its " certain signs," that can be read and understood by those only to whom jungle voices are familiar, and who, from long habit and experience, have been enabled to observe and mark the systematic order of Nature's handiwork. During the intense heat of the day, whilst the sun is still high above the meridian, all animated nature seems to yield to his overpowering influence. A strange stillness, a profound silence, reigns throughout the jungle, which in early morning seemed to teem with life and motion. Every living creature dis- appears into the deepest shade of the woods, in order to escape from the exhausting heat and oppressive glare ; except, perhaps, the eagle, hawk, and falcon, who are seen hovering overhead in circles, like specks 304 The Hunting Grounds in the cloudless sky, or skimming, with strange wild cries, over the tops of the jungle in search of their prey, and the green enamelled dragon-flies that still flit over the water from leaf to leaf. Then the sturdy hunter, overcome with lassitude, suspends his toil, and seeks the grateful shade of some gigantic forest-tree or overhanging rock, where he reposes until the mid- day heat is passed, whilst his dog, also sharing in the universal languor which seems at that hour to oppress the whole face of nature, lies panting upon the ground, with his legs extended to the utmost, and his tongue hanging far out of his mouth. The weary hours roll on, and nature revives ; the woods again resound with the melody of the voice of birds ; butterflies, of varied hue, flutter across the open glades; bees flit from flower to flower; and lustrous beetles, exhibiting metallic hues of green and blue, that rival the deepest shades of the emerald and the sapphire, hover round in circles, making a peculiar booming noise from the flutter of their wings. Myriads of insects keep up a perpetual hum in the solitudes of the jungle, and other gentle sounds murmur softly from every side, like spirits in the air, and produce an effect singularly strange, soothing, and dreamy. At times, above this jungle melody, may be dis- tinguished the distant cry of the peacock, the shrill wild note of jungle-fowl, the call of the coppersmith, the tapping of the woodpecker against some hollow of the Old World. 305 tree, the chattering of a troop of monkeys as they pass in the distance, bounding from bough to bough ; the peculiarly soft and melancholy note of the turtle- doves, as they flutter in pairs from tree to tree ; or the shrill screams of flights of paroquet, whose brilliant plumage shines with exquisite lustre in the light of the sun, as they dash close past, unconscious of danger in their forest home. As the day declines, birds of all kinds are seen re- turning homeward from their distant feeding-grounds; pelicans rise heavily on their unwieldy wings from the marshes and wend their way to their nests on the highest trees in some secluded spot. Flying-foxes leave the shady grove where they have hung sus- pended during the heat of the day, and are seen in numbers darkening the sky as they roam through the twilight ; whilst multitudes of bats flit about in all directions in search of the insects on which they feed. As the sun sets, moths of all kinds issue from their retreats, and mosquitoes are constantly heard buzzing about, increasing in the audacity of their attacks as the night wears on. The shrill voices of innumerable crickets, the croaking of frogs, and the continual hum of other insects, keep up a perpetual serenade long after darkness has covered the earth. Then is heard the whooping of the great rock-monkeys, the bark of the elk, the mournful howling of the hyena, the unearthly shrieking of jackals, the trumpeting of 306 The Hunting Grounds elephants as they crash through the underwood ; at intervals the distant roar of a prowling tiger is re-echoed among the hollow arches of the forest, as he leaves his lair, in its inmost recesses, to search in the plains for prey ; and great horned-owls flit past on muffled wings with strange sepulchral cries, like evil spirits of darkness. All these nocturnal animals return to their haunts in the deep jungle on the first appearance of dawn, when the jungle-cock sounds the " reveille," and pea- fowl are heard in all directions calling to their mates. Herds of bison and deer retire slowly from the open glades where they have pastured during the night, and again seek the shade of the thick cover. As light increases, the notes of the earliest of the fea- thered songsters are heard ; and herons, cranes, and waders, may be seen on high, soaring away in the direction of their feeding-grounds. At this early hour there is generally a cool breeze, and the morning-air is fresh and bracing ; but very shortly the whole of the eastern horizon glows with ruddy lustre, and the sun bursts forth in a blaze of living light, and seems to travel on his way in the heavens with much more rapidity than in northern climes. This is the moment for the lover of the beautiful to see the forest, for the dew-drops on the leaves and ground sparkle like brilliants, and at no other time are the varied colours of the verdure so of the Old World. 307 vivid. The lights and shade show to the best advan- tage, and a peculiarly harmonious charm reigns over the whole face of Nature, which must strike upon the heart even of the most apathetic spirit, and make him feel, with the great poet, that " There is a pleasure in the pathless woods." But I am digressing, and must return to our am- buscade, where we were lying at our ease, whilst Chineah and Googooloo kept watch. Numbers of pea-fowl, jungle-fowl, and spur-fowl, came to drink from time to time, and their wild cries were heard on every side of the deeply- wooded valley. Presently we heard the low bark of a buck- elk calling to his hinds, and as the sun was sinking below the horizon the roar of a tiger awoke the echoes of the surround- ing hills, and was immediately answered by another, at no great distance from the lake. Peafowl took up the cry on every side, and the wood resounded with the voices of wild animals. Chineah and Goo- gooloo smiled grimly at each other as they caught up each cry, and named the animal that it came from, and each gave me a significant look as I proceeded to put fresh caps on my pet rifle, which I had pre- viously carefully loaded. "Yon forest music goes cheerily, Hal, and does one more good than all the sol-fa-ing we have lately heard at Ooty," whispered B . x 2 308 The Hunting Grounds " Yes, Ned, it strikes upon the heart of a ranger of the woods like an old well-loved strain upon a wanderer's ears ; but I imagine that we shall have a view of the performers before morning, as the Mul- ch ers say there is no other water about here nearer than the Bowani, and it is evident from the pugs we saw on the sand that they frequent this place." Just at this moment we heard a movement in the bushes, and an old grey monkey, evidently a scout, came creeping cautiously into the plain. After peer- ing about a few moments in a very inquisitive manner, seeing all appeared clear, he turned towards the wood, uttering a sharp cry, and, immediately a whole troop of his followers came leaping and swinging them- selves from the trees, screaming, chattering, fighting, and making grimaces at each other, as they rushed frantically to the water's edge to quench their thirst. Then, after gambolling about for a little time and picking up a few berries, they again disappeared in the woods. Towards dusk two jungle-sheep followed, and remained for some time, but we allowed them to retreat unmolested. Shortly afterwards my attention was attracted by a low grunt from Googooloo, whom I saw cautiously putting his head forward and raising his body, so as to get a better view of something, whilst he motioned to Naga to hand me my rifle. " Kya hy ?" (what is it ?) whispered I. Googooloo made no answer, but still continued to strain his eyes of the Old World. 309 in the direction of a large low bush about thirty yards from the place of our concealment, at the same time making a sign with his hand for me to wait. We remained for some minutes in the utmost silence, all of us keeping a look-out through the loopholes, but nothing was to be seen. "Kuch na hy" (there is nothing), at length whis- pered Chineah, who was rather jealous of Googooloo's having drawn attention to a sound which his quick ear had not caught up, and B again laid down, fancying it was a false alarm. I, however, remained on the alert, having the same confidence in the Ya- nadi's warning as a huntsman would have when his best hound gave tongue or a sportsman when his favourite dog made a dead point. I had often pre- viously trusted to his natural instinct and quickness of hearing and scarcely ever found him wrong, so I kept my eye upon him, prepared to act. Although he maintained a dignified silence, I could see by the contemptuous curl of his lip that he was evidently disgusted with Chineah's remark and vexed at B ? s mistrust ; but when he saw, as his eye caught mine, that I believed in him, he gave his accustomed grunt of satisfaction and continued to peer into the dark tangled forest before us. A few minutes passed, when he again turned his head on one side, as if to drink in some fancied sound, and I noticed a grim smile of satisfaction 310 The Hunting Grounds illumine his expressive face as he raised both hands over his eyes as if to get a better view of something. At this moment I caught sound of the light crackling of a twig, and a rustling as if some animal was moving amongst dry leaves, and again was heard Googooloo's low grunt as he pointed to the bush which had before attracted his attention, whispering beneath his breath, " Bagh hy !" (there is a tiger !). I cocked both barrels of my rifle, moved noiselessly forward, and kept it pointed in the direction indicated, but nothing was to be seen, although we waited for many moments in anxious suspense. Chineah, who twigged the noise this time, now took the Yanadi's right hand and pressed it to his own forehead, a silent acknowledgment that he had been in the wrong, and from the satisfactory smile that passed over Googooloo's face, I could see that peace was made between the two -friends and rivals in " forest lore." u Do you think it was a tiger, Hal ?" whispered B . "I rather suspect it must have been a jungle-fowl scratching up the ground, or a snake gliding amongst the leaves." " It might have been the latter," I replied, " but jungle-fowl are all gone to roost by this time, and I have often heard a tiger or a panther steal along with as little noise." For a time an intense quiet reigned, not a leaf of the Old World. 311 stirred, and no sound was heard but the dull mono- tonous roar of falling waters or the plaintive cry of a stray plover in search of his companions. The sun had been gone down some time, and the moon, which was then at the full, had not risen sufficiently high for her silvery light to penetrate the deep ravine in which we were. Both B 's patience and his cheroot were well- nigh exhausted, and as I saw he could hardly keep himself awake, I bade both him and Chineah sleep whilst Googooloo and myself kept the first watch. We remained for nearly a couple of hours listening anxiously to every sound that issued from the jungle, and although during this time we distinctly heard the growling of a bear just below us, and could dis- tinguish in the gloom the dark forms of a sounder of hog wallowing in the pool, still there was not sufficient light to take aim, and I did not pull trigger. At last the moon appeared over the scarped crest of the mountain, sailing in a cloudless sky a flood of light glistened like silver on the lake, and caused every object to be seen as distinctly as at noon-day.- Struck with the fairy-like beauty of the scene before me, I became absorbed in thought, from which I was roused by Googooloo laying his hand on my shoulder and pointing to something standing in the shade of a lofty forest tree. At the same moment I heard the low short bark of a spotted-deer, and a fine buck 312 The Hunting Grounds with broad-spreading antlers came forcing his way through the tangled brushwood, and stood before us in bold relief. I threw up my rifle, brought the sight to bear upon his shoulder, and was just about to pull trigger when a huge monster of a tiger sprang from the very bush that Googooloo had been so attentively watching, and fastened upon his shoulder with a low growl. Like a flash of lightning, my trusty rifle belched forth its deadly contents right and left: a roar, a smothered whine, followed the double report, and the stricken brute rolling over and over, was gasping in its last agonies. A convulsive movement was succeeded by a stifled groan, a moaning cry, a bubbling sound, and all was still. "What have you killed, Hal?" cried B , awakened by the shots, and cocking his rifle. " Ha ! ha ! I see a fine pair of horns too but he is not dead," he continued, raising his piece and putting an end to the poor buck, who was still struggling on the spot where he had been struck down. " Look a little to the right, Ned, under the shade of the bush," replied I, " and you will see the result of my shots he felled the deer." " A yaller hair, by the powers I" exclaimed B . " Well, you are in luck ; but it serves me right for not believing in the Yanadi's warning." 'Yes, Googooloo was not mistaken, for the tiger must have been lying in wait in that bush for some of the Old World. 313 hours before," I replied, as I finished reloading. We then descended from our place of concealment, and were examining the dead tiger, when Naga, whom I had sent to the hut to call up some of the people to help to carry away the carcass, came rushing back with fear depicted on his countenance, exclaiming that he had seen another tiger. Beckoning Chineah and Googooloo to follow with spare guns, we both rushed down the pathway that the people had cut through the bush, as a short way to the hut, in which Naga said he had come face to face with the tiger, and sure enough there were the pugs close to the prints of Naga's toes. The tiger must have been as much astonished at the rencontre as the man, for he had evidently turned back, as we could tell by the trail. Whilst we were examining the pugs, in order to note which direction he had taken, my attention was attracted by a low whimper, followed by a yawn, which appeared to proceed from the bed of the water- course, and after some little trouble we forced our way through the thick underwood to the bank, from whence we saw a tigress cooly picking her way among the stones, in the bed of the " nullah " (watercourse). We put up our rifles and both fired at the same moment ; uttering a deep angry growl, she fell for- ward, evidently hard hit, although the distance was nearly two hundred yards, and the light none of the 314 The Hunting Grounds best. When she rose, I thought her foreleg seemed to dangle from the shoulder as if broken, but she still went on, notwithstanding we let fly again and evi- dently hit her, for she gave a terrific roar and turned short round as if to charge, but her heart seemed to fail, and she slunk into some cover close at hand in the centre of the nullah. " The light is not good enough for accurate shoot- ing at this range, Hal," said B , as we were re- loading our rifles, " but I do not think she can travel far. I am sure she carries lead in her." " Of that there can be no doubt," I replied, " as I heard the soft " thud " of the bullet distinctly ; how- ever, we will follow her up, for I saw her enter that isolated patch of bush in the nullah, from which it would be an easy matter to drive her out with a few rockets. I was only considering whether we had not better wait until daylight, when we could almost make sure of her, for the moon will only favour us a short time longer, as the gorge will be in darkness as soon as she sinks below yon wall of rock." " No time like the present, Hal," cried B , climbing down the steep bank into the bed of the nullah;" so send Naga to the hut for rockets and some of the people, whilst you, I, and Googooloo watch the cover in case she may attempt to steal away." Knowing from experience the difficulty of making of the Old World. 315 accurate shooting by the light of the moon, which is very deceitful, it was with some reluctance that I ordered Chineah to take a rifle and go with Naga to the hut for the rest of the gang, and I regretted it almost as soon as I had done so, for I felt a strange presentiment of some accident occurring, being aware of the extreme danger of beating out a wounded tiger from thick cover in such an uncertain light ; how- ever I determined to take every precaution, and clambering down into the nullah, followed by Goo- gooloo, we watched each side of the cover in which the tigress had been seen to enter, until Chineah and the rest of the gang, accompanied by our Coolies, joined us. We then formed up in line, B taking the right and I the left .flank, with Chineah well provided with rockets in the centre, and all the rest armed with the short spears they generally carried when beating the jungle. Having distinctly warned them not on any account to straggle or separate, and seen that our spare guns were at hand, we moved into the cover, which, although not more than fifty yards long by twenty broad, was very dense, being covered with low tangled bushes and coarse grass about four feet high. We could easily have driven the tigress out by firing the grass, but I did not do so as the blaze would have scared all the game away from the surrounding jungles. We had beaten our way steadily through almost half the 316 The Hunting Grounds patch, when we heard a low grumbling, which ap- peared to proceed from a large bush much overgrown with creepers and high spear-grass. " Dekho ! sahib, dehko !" (look, Sir, look !) cried Chineah, throwing a couple of lighted rockets into the retreat, which evidently annoyed her, although they had not the effect of causing her to break for she set up a low angry growl which lasted some time. Two or three times I thought I saw the bush shake as if she was about to spring, and once I caught a hurried glimpse of her outline, and threw up my rifle, but I put it down again as I did not like to fire a chance shot with uncertain aim. Again Chineah J s rockets flew hissing about her, and one of them caused her to move, for B caught sight of her, and let drive right and left, when out she sprang with an appalling roar, and struck down poor Ali, who, notwithstanding my orders, had separated himself from the rest in order to pick up a stone to throw into the bush. His piercing death shriek rang through the night air, striking terror on every heart ; and, although I felt that I was too late to save him, I determined he should be amply revenged, and dashed forward towards the spot where the infu- riated tigress was savagely growling, as she still shook the senseless but quivering body of her victim. No sooner did I get a glimpse of her, than I knew that I was perceived, for with a short angry roar she left the of the Old World. 317 corpse and crouched low to the ground, with her head down, her back arched, and her tail lashing her heaving flanks. At this moment, before she could make a spring that might have proved fatal, carefully aiming between her eyes, which glared upon me like balls of fire, I let drive she reared up full length on her hind-legs, pawed the air, and fell back dead. Vengeance satiated, I went up to poor Ali, whom I found shockingly mutilated ; his death must have been instantaneous, as the tigress, with the first blow of her paw, had crushed in the skull (for the brains lay scattered about the place) and then made her teeth meet in his throat and shoulder, breaking the arm in two places, and lacerating the fleshy part of the thigh. B and the gang came up shortly afterwards, and long and loud were their lamentations, for Ali was much liked by them all, and a great favourite with his master, to whom he had ever proved a willing and devoted follower. We bound up his head, covered his face with a cloth, and by the aid of our axes constructed a litter of bamboos, on which we carried him towards the hut, where Yacoob Khan, Hassan, and Cassim, B 's " kidmudjar " (butler), who were also Mussulmen, per- formed the last rites of " the Faithful ;" and we buried him in a deep grave, under an overhanging rock, near the lake in which the nose, whiskers, and claws of the tigress had been previously thrown. 318 The Hunting Grounds To show our respect to the memory of the ske- karry who had come to such an unfortunate end, we all attended, and, at the request of the gang, three vollies were fired over his grave. Strange to say, that hardly had the echoes of the last report died away, rumbling amongst the hills, than the roaring of another tiger was distinctly heard several times. Whilst the grave was being filled in, many of the gang were much affected, but not a word was uttered by any, except Chineah, who, with his eyes still streaming with tears for the loss of his companion, pronounced the following oration : " Boht utcha Ske- karry tha, lakin murgia, Jcya kurna? Nusseeb liy? (He was a very good Shekarry, but he is dead what can we do ? It is his fate.) Then each man, fetching a large stone, placed it reverentially over the grave, so as to form a kind of cairn, and making salaam to both of us, returned to the hut, we follow- ing with heavy hearts. As it still wanted some hours to dawn, we turned into bed : but that fearful death-shriek still rang in my ears, and, although tired and weary, I could not sleep. of the Old World. 319 CHAPTER XIX. THE GREAT ANNAMULLAY FOREST Continued. BISON-HUNTING. Our hut. A gigantic carp. Fish shooting. His dimensions. Discovery of a cave ; an exploring party. The tiger's spoils. His dimensions. "Away with melancholy." Chineah's reconnaissance and bag. Our open council. Jungle har- mony. Our proceedings and plan for the morrow. The turn-out. The start. A hard fag. A fresh trail of bison struck. Googooloo has the ear of a hare. Two buck-elk and a hind bite the dust. We follow up the bison's trail. Heavy work. Land-leeches. The find. A heavy bag and a good day's work. The gigantic dimensions of the patriarch of the herd. The game bushed. Again en route. A teak-forest. The head of the fall. Magnificent views. Our bivouac. T) EING fatigued with our night adventure and the ^-* previous day's fag, it was late in the afternoon before either B or myself made our appearance outside the tent, which, notwithstanding the intense heat of the weather, was comparatively cool and comfortable, being completely shaded from the scorching rays of the sun by the overhanging rocks above. Chineah, Googooloo, and a couple of Mulchers had gone into the forest to reconnoitre and look out 320 The Hunting Grounds for trails, and the Gooroo and the rest of the gang were busily engaged in denuding the dead tigers of their spoils. After breakfast we strolled towards the lake, where we found Hassan, who attracted our attention to an enormous fish which lay basking as if asleep on the surface of the water, whilst several others of the same species, but smaller, kept rising from time to time in different parts of the pool. He informed us that he had been trying for several hours to catch one of these monsters with a rod, but that they were too cunning to take any bait. Knowing from expe- rience that Hassan was a first-rate fisherman, I felt sure that I (who at the best of times am but a bungler with the rod) should have a poor chance of succeeding if he could not, so I left B to amuse himself with bait and fly, whilst I returned to the hut to make preparations more in my line. I took a common musket which Chineah used for wild-fowl shooting, and to the centre of the iron ramrod I firmly attached a piece of double wire, about two yards in length, to the end of which I fastened a strong log-line. This done, I loaded the piece with powder and a thick felt-wadding, and then inserted the ramrod, with the flat head downwards, keeping it in its place in the centre of the bore with a second wad which fitted tightly in the muzzle. My preparations completed, I returned to the of the Old World. 321 pool, and, creeping up as cautiously as possible, I got to within twenty paces of the huge fellow who was so coolly enjoying his " siesta," took steady aim and fired. The ramrod flew like an arrow true to the mark, passing through the fish and dragging the wire and part of the line with it. Immediately the creature found itself wounded it sprang high out of the water, and then dived, pulling so hard that our hands were badly cut with the cord running so fast through them as we gave him play. For some time it raced round and round the pool, but at length seemed to grow exhausted, and allowed us to pull it to the surface of the water, when, as if endued with fresh vigour, it gave another great spurt, and again spun round and round, until at times I felt afraid that the cord would break. After a good hour's play it turned on its belly and gave in, and we managed to land it with some trouble on account of the great weight. It was evidently of the carp species, having large round scales, one dorsal fin, forked tail with rounded lobes, and yellow olive sides, deepening to black on the back. Not having any scales at hand we could not determine its weight exactly, but I constructed a rude pair with some ropes and a bamboo accurately suspended in the centre, and by that we made out the weight to be about sixty-three pounds, as it weighed down two bags and a quarter of shot, which Y 322 The Hunting Grounds were supposed to hold twenty-eight pounds when full. The flesh proved to be coarse, rank, and tough, but some of the gang, who made part of it into a curry, said it was not bad eating. As we were strolling about the ravine with our rifles whilst the gang were engaged in skinning the dead tigress, B discovered the entrance of a cave in the scarped overhanging cliff near our hut, and having nothing better to do we determined to explore it. Naga and Eamasawmy were accordingly des- patched for torches, blue-lights, matches, etc., and after carefully examining our rifles so as to be ready in case we found it tenanted by bears or hyenas (not an unlikely occurrence), we crept in, Naga leading with a torch, I following with B , and Eama- sawmy with another torch bringing up the rear. The entrance was about four feet high and three broad, but it shortly became much more lofty, and from the light of our torches we saw numbers of pointed stalactites hanging from the roof in every direction which threw perplexing shadows as we advanced, and every now and then made us think that some animal was moving towards us. After proceeding for about forty yards, we came to a vast chamber, where we were very much annoyed by myriads of small bats that, alarmed at our intru- sion, came dashing up against our faces, and almost put out the torches. /: of the Old World. 323 Having peered about carefully to make sure there were no beasts of any kind likely to molest us, I lighted a couple of blue-lights, which enabled us to see every part of the grotto distinctly. The cavern appeared to be about seventy yards long by forty wide, and varying from ten to sixty feet in height ; it was vaulted with live rock covered all over with elegantly-formed stalactites which glittered like bril- liants from the reflection of the blue-lights. The ground was very uneven, and covered with fine sand, except on one side, where there were enormous boulders of black granite. We saw several fissures and crevices which appeared to be passages stretch- ing out further in different directions into the bowels of the earth, but did not care to explore them on account of the close heat and insupportable stench, as well as for fear of snakes and scorpions, several of which reptiles we discerned moving about the place. We therefore wrote our names and the date on a huge slab of smooth rock with charcoal, for the benefit of any one who might come after us, and retraced our steps into daylight, glad to breathe the fresh air once more. We found that the Gooroo and Veerapah had finished skinning the tigress, and were busily engaged in searching for our bullets; she had received five wounds, besides the last, which entered between the eyes and penetrated the brain, causing instantaneous Y 2 324 The Hunting Grounds death. The tiger had been skinned in the morning, having been previously carried some distance away from the lake for fear the scent of blood might taint the air, and prevent other animals from approaching the spot to drink. He proved to be a fine specimen, his dimensions being as follows: Length from tip of nose to point of tail, 10 ft., 2 in. ; length of tail, 3 ft., 1 in. ; girth of body, 6 ft., 1 in. ; girth round fore-arm, 2 ft., 10 in. ; height at shoulder, 3 ft., 9 in.; circumference of head, 3 ft., 5 in. The tigress was much less, not measuring more than 9 ft., 5 in. from the tip of the nose to the point of the tail, and her limbs smaller in proportion. The melancholy fate of poor Ali had spread a gloom upon us all, and the camp, which usually resounded with mirth, seemed strangely still and silent ; so, to give the people something else to think about, I ordered a couple of sheep to be killed and distributed with an extra allowance of tobacco, which had the desired effect, for in the course of a short time cooking-pots and brass curry-dishes were boiling and bubbling on every side, and the busy hum of voices was heard throughout the bivouac as usual. Towards evening, Chineah and his party re- turned from their reconnaissance with three young "squeakers" (hog), which the dogs had captured alive, and they reported that they had come across a large herd of bison, browsing in some bamboo-jungle of the Old World. 325 half-way up the hill, and had left them undisturbed, so that we should most likely find them near the place on the morrow. After having dined substantially upon a prime haunch of roast vension, and grilled sucking-pig, we adjourned to our camp-fire, which was lighted in a deep cleft of the rock where it could not be well seen at any distance from the surrounding jungle; and here we found the gang and all our people assembled, according to their usual custom when out in the jungle on a " Shekar " expedition. The Gooroo and Yeerapah were enlivening the party with some extemporary chanting, and at the same time accompanying themselves on the " sitarr " and " sarinda,"* whilst Chineah and the Coolies performed on tomtoms, and Eamasawmy gave occasional dis- cordant flourishes on the cholera horn which we were obliged to decline, as B declared it would make his dinner disagree with him. As we took our seats on a carpet spread over a heap of dry leaves which had been prepared for us, the concert ceased, and each man produced his pannikin or cocoanut-shell, for it was my custom to give every one in camp a glass of rakee, and tobacco or cheroot, when we assembled in council round the camp-fire in the evening to consult as to * Rude instruments somewhat resembling the violin and guitar. 326 The Hunting Grounds the morrow's proceedings. As soon as the grog had been served out, and all were enjoying the fragrant weed, I opened the proceedings by expressing my regret that such an untoward event should have befallen the gang as to lose one of their number 5 but I explained to them that poor Ali had lost his life by disobeying my positive orders in foolishly straggling from the rest, and I hoped his sad fate would be a warning to the gang to be more careful in future. I also suggested that the gang should each subscribe some small sum towards making up a purse for his father (an old pensioned Havildar), to which B and I would contribute a hundred rupees ; and I was glad to see that when Chineah went round with his cocoanut-shell, every one present, even to the Coolies, put in his rupee or whatever he could afford. We then proceeded to deliberate on the plan for the morrow, and to detail each man his duty. Veerapah and Naga, with two Mulchers, were to ascend the Ghaut on the left, to find out if the Carders (a jungle tribe who inhabited that side of the mountain) had seen any elephants lately, and afterwards to join us at the head of the fall. Hassan was to go into Coimbatore with notes from B to K and C , informing them of our whereabouts, in case they could manage to join our party. Ramasawmy was to continue the preparation of the skins, and Chineah, Googooloo, and two Mulchers were to ac- of the Old World. 327 company us in a trip up the side of the ravine, where the herd of bison had been seen. These matters being settled, we sat smoking and chatting for a couple of hours, and then turned in. Next morning the moon had only just set, and there was but a slight tinge of grey in the eastern sky, when my factotum " Five Minutes " entered the hut with hot coffee flavored with eau-de-vie, which is the best morning-cup for a sportsman when in the jungle, as it prevents any ill effects arising from inhaling the vapour which still hangs upon the ground at that early hour. Our toilet was soon com- pleted, and on stepping outside the hut we found the gang all wrapped up in their combleys and couched over a wood-fire, for the early morning was damp and chilly ; so I ordered a glass of grog to be served out, and Chineah distributed the spare guns, blankets, stores, &c., that each had to carry in case of our being benighted in the jungle, which was a common occurrence. In tropical climates the interval between the first faint glimmering of dawn and daylight is very short, and as soon as we could distinguish objects pretty clearly we entered the forest, where we heard jungle- cocks already crowing merrily. The first living creatures we encountered were two great hooded-owls, who, like drowsy revellers after their nightly carouse, sailed hooting past lei- 328 The Hunting Grounds surely flapping their wings as they returned to their haunts, in some hollow tree. Shortly afterwards we surprised a troop of monkeys who were evidently making their way towards the pool for a morning draught, but who fled, skipping from branch to branch, chattering and showing their teeth as soon as they detected our presence. Every now and again the dun sides of deer flashed for an instant before us, as they bounded across the open vistas of the forest and disappeared in the dense cover. The fresh morning air was loaded with the perfume of different flowering jungle-plants, and the forest re- sounded with the melody of feathered songsters. We followed the trail that Chineah's party had made in their reconnaissance the day before, and after an hour's painful climbing up the dry bed of a mountain-torrent, filled with loose round stones which rolled from under the feet at every step, and somewhat tried our powers as mountaineers, we arrived at a natural clearing in the midst of the dense forest where the gang had seen the bison browsing the day before. We examined the ground carefully, and found numbers of old marks, but no fresh ones, so we continued our route up the side of the mountain, and after a couple of hours' severe toil found ourselves in a patch of bamboo-jungle, where Chineah detected the fresh trail of a herd of bison. of the Old World. 329 Being thoroughly exhausted and done up with our exertions, we sat down upon a ledge of rock to regain our breath and rest ourselves before following up the trail, and wera indulging in the indescribable luxury of weak brandy-panee and cheroots, never more enjoyed than in the jungle, when an exclamation from Googooloo caused us both to jump on our feet and seize our rifles that were leaning at our heads against a tree. I made a motion to our people to lie flat on the ground, and listened for a couple of minutes without hearing anything ; but a glance at Googooloo's speaking features told me that he had caught sound of something, and I remained on the alert. Just at that moment we heard a sharp bark, which I knew came from an elk ; and, stealing as gently as possible to a ledge of rock which com- manded a view of the slope, I had the satisfaction of beholding a herd of sambur feeding in a glade about eighty yards below us. A fine stag with sweeping antlers was grazing, unconscious of danger, within easy range, and a second was lying down in the shade chewing the cud, surrounded by hinds. "Now Ned," whispered I to B , who had joined me, " take that fellow well behind the shoulder, and he 's your own." He raised his rifle, took deliberate aim, fired, and the stag, leaping with a convulsive bound high into the air, fell dead. The second hart, startled by the shot, 330 The Hunting Grounds sprang on his feet, and threw up his head with a wild snort, which gave me a fair shot, and I sent a two- ounce ball crashing into his brain, when he tumbled heavily forward in the high grass ; and, without re- moving the rifle, I brought the sight to bear upon a fat doe and dropped her with a broken shoulder ; but she immediately regained her feet, and would have given us a long run, or perhaps have got off altogether, if B had not given her the contents of his second barrel, which again rolled her over, and, whilst she was struggling, Chineah sprang forward and buried his long knife in her chest : her dark, languid eye rolled wildly round for a moment, and dis- tending her wide nostrils, she gasped painfully for breath, heaved a convulsive sigh, stretched out her limbs, and all was still. We immediately set to work and broke up the deer; and, after reserving a portion for present use, slung the remainder by creepers to the branch of a tree, tying a red pocket-handkerchief like a streamer to keep off the vultures, who otherwise would soon have scented it out and left us nothing but the bones. I also despatched one of the Mulchers with the heads to the hut, as the horns were good, giving him orders to collect some of his tribe to carry down the venison, and leave the skins with my servants. This little matter arranged, we followed up the spoor of the bison, and in a little time fell in with of the Old World. 331 the trail of a large herd, which, from unmistakeable signs, we knew could not be far in advance. It was very lucky that we came provided with leech-gaiters, made of very fine long-stockings, which we wore over our ordinary hose and breeches, and under the gaiters, as we found the land-leeches swarming in the damp grass and rank vegetation. These pests of the jungle are very insignificant in size, not being above an inch in length, or thicker than a knitting-needle, but when distended with blood they attain double that length and are about as thick as a good-sized quill. They have the power of planting one extremity on the ground, and poising themselves erect to watch for prey, towards which they advance rapidjy by doubling up the body and holding on with their head and tail. They are of a yellowish -brown colour, streaked with black, with one greenish line along the whole length of the back, and a yellow one on each side. Their bites scarcely give any pain at the time, the punctures being so small as hardly to be perceptible, but they cause an uncomfortable irritation, and with persons in a bad state of body often occasion nasty ulcers, which are slow to heal. The gang were accustomed to smear their naked legs with some peculiar kind of grease mixed with ashes, the scent of which prevented the leeches from biting, otherwise they would have been seriously inconvenienced by their attacks. 332 The Hunting Grounds After following the trail for some miles, Chineah and Googooloo, who were creeping along a ragged hollow, which appeared to have been the pathway of an impetuous torrent, some little distance in front, made a sign to us to keep silent, and shortly after- wards they beckoned us to advance. With great caution we crept noiselessly forward, stopping from time to time to listen, and after crawling on our hands and knees for nearly a hundred yards, we gained the crest of the hill, where we had the satisfaction of seeing a large herd of bison quietly browsing on the green herbage in a patch of open teak-forest Having satisfied myself that we were well to lee- ward, and in no danger of being discovered by their remarkably keen scent, I raised myself cautiously behind the trunk of a tree to reconnoitre ; and after pointing out to B a fine bull, who, surrounded with cows, was lazily nibbling the young and tender shoots of a clump of bamboos, about a hundred yards distant, I begged him to reserve his fire until he heard my signal, as I intended to try and stalk the patri- arch of the herd, a stately fellow with enormous dew- lap and immensely deep shoulders, who was pawing the ground fretfully, and uttering deep cries as if im- patient for the herd to retire to the depths of the jungle for shelter from the rays of the sun, which were beginning to feel oppressive. I descended a short distance down the side of the of the Old World. 333 hill, and crept along the brow until I got under the cover of a clump of bamboos, whence I again caught sight of him. Here I had nearly been discovered, for two cows and a young calf sprang up close to me, and rushed tail on end towards the rest of the herd, who lifting up their heads seemed to gaze anxiously in my direction. I therefore remained a few moments per- fectly quiet, keeping my eye upon the mighty bull who was standing about three hundred yards distant ; arid when I saw that their alarm had in some degree subsided, I crept gently forward, and, taking advan- tage of any cover I could find, managed to ensconce myself behind a large rhododendron-bush within a hundred and twenty yards of him. I then blew a shrill blast on a silver call I always wore round my neck, as a signal to B , and shortly afterwards heard a double shot, followed by three others. The first report attracted the bull's attention, and he trotted forward a few paces to re- connoitre, tearing up the turf with his hoofs, and lashing his tail as if indignant that his sylvan retreat should be intruded upon. Whilst in this position he offered me a fair view of his brawny shoulder, and I planted a heavy cylindro-conical bullet just behind it, which brought him to his knees with a surly roar. Mad with pain he regained his feet, and staggered forward on three legs, when I gave him the contents of my second barrel in nearly the same place, which 334 The Hunting Grounds rolled him over. Chineah now handed me my other rifle, and I quitted the cover ; when no sooner did he catch sight of me than again springing up, with a deep tremulous roar, he charged headlong at me, tail on end, his eyes flashing fire, and mouth covered with blood and foam. I let him come to within six paces of where I was standing, when I stopped his mad career with a ball in the centre of his broad massive forehead, which again made him bite the dust: he gave a desperate plunge forward, and rolled heavily over on his side, dead. The others, alarmed, were now tearing frantically over the plain, so I slipped behind the cover of a bush to reload, and again stealing forward, managed to bowl over a cow and wound another badly, before the terrified herd sought safety in flight by rallying in a body and crashing through the dense bamboo-jungle which clothed the side of the hill. After reloading, I despatched the second cow with a bullet behind the horns, as she was lying disabled by my first shot, which had passed through the small of her back and paralyzed her hind-quarters. I now looked out for B and Googooloo, who were nowhere to be seen, but a dead cow and a young bull-calf showed that they had not been idle. Whilst I was examining the latter, and cogitating upon veal-cutlets and marrow-bones, I heard two double shots in the cover just below the crest of the of the Old World. 335 hill, which were immediately followed by a loud whoop from B ; and on running up I found him standing breathless over the carcass of a huge bull, which was evidently just killed. " By Jove ! Hal," exclaimed he, as I approached, " I'm regularly done up ; this brute has led me such a chase. I hit him fairly between the eyes, and doubled him up like a rabbit with buck-shot, for he dropped without a struggle, dead, as I thought, and I paid no more attention to him ; but letting drive at the herd as they bolted away, I killed a cow and a calf and wounded a third, when suddenly my friend picked himself up, shook his head savagely, gave an angry grunt, and charged right at me. Every barrel being discharged, I stepped on one side and got out of his way, when he directed his attention to Googoo- loo, who dodged him amongst the trees easily enough ; for, half-blinded with blood from his wound, he reeled and tumbled about as if he was groggy, every now and then falling heavily. As soon as I had re- loaded I gave chase, but all at once missed him, and it was only just now that the Yanadi pointed him out to me in this clump of high grass, where he had cunningly lain down to conceal himself. As I came up he again charged, when stepping aside I allowed him to pass, and gave him the contents of both barrels well behind the shoulder, which brought him up, and to make sure of him this time I administered a couple 336 The Hunting Grounds of pills in the back of the head as he lay writhing and gasping upon the ground ; and here he is safe enough. But what have you done ? " " About the same as yourself/' I answered ; " I have killed the big bull and a couple of cows, which makes six bison and three elk bagged. Not a bad day's work for two guns." " No, indeed," replied B ; " would it not make the folks at home stare?" "Mulcher log boht kush honga, Sahib I" "The Mulcher people will be very happy, sir ! " exclaimed Chineah ; u there will be meat in their huts for many days to come, and the gentlemen's great shekar will be spoken of for a long time in far off jungles." " Yes, Chineah," I replied ; " I dare say we shall soon have more mouths to fill, but remember you impress upon the minds of the Coorchi moopen* of the Carders, and the head men of the Mulchers, that in return for the game we give them I shall expect to hear of elephants." "Ho ba-shucJc, Sahib I" " Yes, without doubt, sir, the tribes will build < jopreys' (huts made of branches) near our camp, and we can send the men into the jungle every day to look out for trails." " All right," I replied, " that's your affair ; in the mean time hand me the tape and come and help me * A high priest, or rather " holy -man " of a tribe. of the Old World. 337 to measure the other kulgha (bull-bison), as I think it is the largest I have ever killed." So saying we retraced our steps to the big bull, and, with the aid of a straight bamboo, I took the exact dimensions and entered them in my note-book as follows : "Perpendicular height from the bottom of the hoof to the top of the shoulder, not following the curve of the body, 6 feet 4 inches; height to the top of hump, 6 feet 9 inches ; length of body from the tip of nose to insertion of tail, 1 1 feet 4 inches ; length of tail, 3 feet 4 inches ; girth of body, 9 feet 3 inches; girth of fore-arm, 2 feet 10 inches; girth of neck, 4 feet 10 inches ; breadth of forehead, 2 feet 5 inches ; circumference round base of horns, 1 foot 9 inches ; length of horns, 1 foot 4 inches ; colour, black along the back, light dun under the belly and inside the thighs, the legs below the knees and hocks dirty white ; the cows much less in proportion, with hardly any hump or dewlap, the head smaller and more graceful." "Well, Hal," exclaimed B , as we finished measuring the gigantic animal; "I think there are few finer fellows than this even in the whole Wynaad Jungle : he is fully two inches higher than any we have hitherto met with, and both you and I have tumbled over a good few in our time too. What a farce to compare the American buffalo with this 338 The Hunting Grounds stately fellow, nineteen hands at the shoulder, and twenty and an inch extreme height. I wonder what the folks at Smithfield would think of him." " I wish we had the little stock we have bagged this morning, Ned, in that neighbourhood," I answered; "they would be worth a twelvemonth's pay and allowances to us, and as a contrast we might also exhibit at the same time a 'Yak,' for the smallest as well as the largest of the genus Bos are to be found in Hindostan. The bison being over twenty hands and the yak not exceeding nine. But, Ned, we have yet a good trudge before we reach the head of the Fall, and I do not think we shall have more than four or five hours' daylight, so we had better set the people to cut thorns and bamboo-stakes at once to cover the animals, so as to scare away the jackals, and then make the best of our way." " All right," replied he ; " we'll blow a cloud whilst they are at work, for it would be a pity to have the skins spoiled, they would cover us such a famous basket-boat to float down to the coast in, by the Bowani and Cauvery ;" which latter flows into the sea near Tranquebar, passing through the towns of Trichinopoly, Tanjore, and Combaconum en route. After having cut out the tongues, which we generally salted, and packed up a few marrow-bones, we super- intended the "bushing" of the game, and shoulder- ing our rifles again made a start. We followed a of the Old World. 339 course parallel to the crest of the ravine, taking care not to go too close to the edge, as the turf was smooth and slippery, and in some places we might have fallen several thousand feet before reaching the ground. We now entered a forest of gigantic teak-trees, so dense that the rays of the sun never penetrated and the light resembled faint and dubious twilight. None but those who have explored an Indian forest could have any conception of the depth of gloom and strange silence that pervades these solitudes. Emerg- ing from the dense forest-jungle that covered the high ridge along which our course had hitherto lain, we descended through a rocky gorge into a beautiful valley clothed with short luxuriant emerald-green grass, through which a softly-murmuring stream of clear pellucid water glided smoothly along until it plunged over a jutting cliff, when, bounding from ledge to ledge, it formed a succession of foaming cataracts, and at last, rushing in its headlong course down the almost perpendicular slope of the mountain, swept over the scarped precipice at the head of the ravine in which we had built our hut. We made our way to the first fall, and lying flat upon the ground, crawled to the edge of the precipice, and peeping cautiously over, we beheld a scene which amply repaid all our toil. The glowing plain of the low country lay stretched like a map before us some z 2 340 The Hunting Grounds thousands of feet below, and we could trace the winding course of the Bowani river for some scores of miles as it gleamed in the rays of the sun like a silver thread. To our right, rose a grand amphi- theatre of frowning heights, every portion of which, save only the scarped face of some perpendicular cliff, was covered with primeval forest, and far off could be discerned the fringed outline of more distant ranges, blue and indistinct in the fading light of departing day. It was a landscape of transcendent beauty which has left a vivid impression on my mind, for perhaps the gorgeous sunset, which gilds all eastern scenery with a beauty peculiarly its own, may have rendered this more charming, by casting those rich golden tints upon the lofty peaks and rugged cliffs which the painter loves to throw over his picture. The day was fast drawing to a close, and it was time to think of preparing our bivouac for the night, so we selected a rising ground for our encampment under the lee of a huge boulder of moss -covered rock, flanked by two strange-looking trees, whose dark dense foliage, gnarled branches, and tortuous roots, reminded us much of those ancient yews that are so often met with in the country churchyards of old England. This arcadian nook was embellished by natural parterres of orchideous plants, wild camellias, rhododendrons, and other flowering shrubs, whilst here and there were scattered clumps of stately forest-trees of the Old World. 341 from which hung festoons of the pusivel creeper (En- tada purscetha) with its gigantic pods nearly six feet in length, and other blooming parasites. Chineah and the people were not long in con- structing two huts (one for us and the other for them- selves) by sticking bamboos into the ground, bending their tops together, which they fastened with creepers so as to form an arch, and wattling the sides with twigs. A trench was then dug, the earth heaped up all round, and the whole covered with a combley which was well pegged down, making an impervious shelter. In our tent a carpet was spread over a bed of dry leaves, a rest for our rifles constructed, and a bull's-eye lanthorn hung up ready for lighting. I was accustomed to make myself at home and comfortable when in the jungle, being always very care- ful in the selection of my sleeping-place, for although after many long years campaigning my constitution has become more hardy and less susceptible of injury from cold and damp, still I have seen so many fine fellows succumb to dysentery and fever, the seeds of which diseases were laid by careless exposure to the night air, after extreme heat and exhaustion, that I always take care of myself, besides which it is wretched beyond description to be shivering beneath a scanty covering, and feel the night air cut through one until the life-blood is almost frozen, when alittle care and forethought would have prevented it. 342 The Hunting Grounds The sun had now gone down, and the fast expiring twilight was deepening into night and barely sufficed to disclose the beauties of the surrounding scenery, so we adjourned to the camp-fire, where all were busily engaged in preparing the evening meal ; and the consequent bustle which ensued presented a strange contrast to the dreamy stillness that a few minutes before pervaded this romantic sylvan dell. After a smoke and a chat round the fire, we set the watch and turned in, well satisfied with our day's sport. of the Old World. 343 CHAPTER XX. THE GREAT ANNAMULLAY FOREST Continued. A ROGUE ELEPHANT. Naga's party join us. News of a rogue elephant. Chineah despatched for the bison's spoils. B 's luck. The start. We strike a fresh trail. Fall in with the tusker. Our pror ceedings. B 's excellent shot. The ivories. A discus- sion on " rogues." The cutting-out of the tusks. Return to the low country. Arrival of our guests. Dinner. B -'s adventure of a "griffin." The lion and tiger .compared. My first lion. We again ascend the ghaut. Good cheer. Con- sultation. Elephant-spoors. The trail followed up. K 's rashness. An escape. A small tusker falls. Return to the hut. B 's bag. A storm. Return to cantonment. O HORTLY after we had retired to rest, I was b*J awakened by an extraordinary noise and bustle outside our hut ; and, on calling for Chineah, found that Naga and Veerapah, with a party of Carders, had come in, having missed their way until attracted by our fire. Naga reported that the Carders had told him of a bull-elephant, with large tusks, that 344 The Hunting Grounds had been seen several times lately in a wooded ravine, about two coss (four miles) distant ; and which he and Veerapah, under the guidance of the party then in camp, had been to look for him, and whilst they were following up his trail, and talking as they went along, he made his appearance and charged right at them, but that they had made their escape by climbing into trees, where they remained until he moved away. The Carders also knew of the whereabouts of a herd at no very great distance among the hills ; and they reported that bison were to be found at any time in the teak-forests. Having made up my mind to go after the solitary tusker, whom I suspected to be a " rogue" that had been driven out of a herd by his companions, from his vicious attack on the people, I turned over and slept until called by Chineah in the morning. A venison-steak broiled on the embers of our fire, a cup of coffee, and a couple of chapaties (girdle-cakes made of rice-flour), formed our breakfast; during which meal I informed B of Naga's news, as he had not heard it, being asleep at the time. I then despatched Chineah, Veerapah, and a party of Carders and Mulchers, for the bisons* skins and horns, which they were to take down to our hut in the low country, and there remain until our return. As there was only one elephant, according to our usual custom in such cases, we tossed up for the of the Old World. 345 "shot," and B won, as he generally managed to do ; after which we set out and followed the course of the valley for about a mile, when we entered a beautiful open forest of magnificent teak- trees, where we soon came upon the old spoor of an elephant, which we followed into a patch of high waving bamboo-jungle, that had evidently been his place of abode for several days, as we could tell by the number of trails we met with on every side, all of which appeared of the same size, and varying from one to ten days old. Finding, from the freshness of the spoor, that he could not be very far off, I ordered all the party, except Googooloo and Naga, who carried our spare guns, to mount into trees, so as to be out of the way in case we met with him ; and shortly afterwards we came to a sandy watercourse, which he had evidently only just crossed, as the water was still flowing into the imprints of his mighty feet. Whilst examining these marks, Googooloo, whose every muscle quivered with excitement, whilst his expressive countenance was lighted up with intense animation, made a sign for us to listen ; and above that strange, indescribable, low buzzing hum, caused by the insect-world, from the depths of the forest on every side, I plainly heard a low "urmph," "urmph" which noise I knew was caused by the elephant blowing through his trunk. We now took the spare guns from Naga and Goo- 346 The Hunting Grounds gooloo, which we flung over our shoulders, first taking the precaution of putting on fresh caps, so as to ensure against miss-fires. Having made signs to our attendants to mount into trees, which was much against their inclinations, as they wanted to see the fun, we crept as noiselessly as possible towards the spot from whence the sound proceeded, and in a little while had the gratification of seeing a very fair-sized tusker rubbing himself most energetically against the trunk of a large teak- tree. We made a circuit through the wood in order to get well to leeward of him, and then cocking our rifles cautiously approached, taking advantage of whatever cover we could find from clumps of bamboo and natural undulations of the ground ; he seeming so much engrossed in his occupation (that of scratch- ing himself), that he did not perceive our approach, and allowed us to get close , behind him, where we stood watching his movements for a few moments. Seeing that B was perfectly ready, I gave a shril] whistle, which immediately attracted his atten- tion, for his ears distended, and he swang heavily round, with a hoarse grunt, fully exposing his broad forehead to our view. Quick as thought B threw up his rifle, and fired a double shot a heavy fall, a subdued sigh, followed the report, and when the smoke cleared away I saw he had pitched heavily forward, and buried his tusks nearly a foot deep into the of the Old World. 347 ground. I stepped up to give him a "coup de grace," but it was not required, both bullets had struck the vulnerable place immediately above the trunk, within f an inch of each other, and, penetrating the brain, death was instantaneous. " Hurra!" cried B , as he threw up his cap, ' those 'ivories ' must weigh heavily, and will help to replenish the shot in my locker, for old Framjee will give me a pagoda* a pound for them. Was it not neatly done ? " "Yes," I replied, "most scientifically, for he dropped to your shot like a stone ; however, you had better superintend the cutting-out of the tusks your- self, as he has fallen in an awkward position to get at; and, if you do not take care, the fellows will chip the ivory with their axes, which will spoil the appearance of the tusks." "All right, Hal, I'll see to it; but do you think this fellow was really a rogue, for he does not look as if he was particularly vicious, judging from the cut of his ' phisog,' although he has several old scars, barely healed, over his hind-quarters?" " I do for several reasons," I replied. " First be- cause the Carders, who are generally tolerably truth- ful, say so ; secondly, because of his solitary habits ; and thirdly, because I fancy those scars are the results of encounters with other of his species, who will not allow him to associate with them. An elephant who * A pagoda, three rupees and a half about seven shillings. 348 The Hunting Grounds has once lost his herd or family is an outcast from the rest of the race, for he is not permitted to join any other troop, although he may frequent the same feeding- places. I fancy that their solitary life causes, them to become morose and vicious ; for rogues, whether male or female, are always found alone. I think I told you that the old rogue with a broken tusk, that I killed in the Ballyrungum Hills a short time ago, used to attack every animal he came near, and did not fear man in the least, for, whenever he heard the sounds of an axe in the part of the jungle he inhabited, he would rush shrieking, and chace the woodcutters ; who went about their work in fear and trembling until I rolled him over with a single ball as he charged me, when I caught him bathing in a small pool of water." "I remember it well," answered B ; "but here come the men with the axes, so bear a hand, and we will show them how to begin ourselves." When the people came up, we set to work cutting out the tusks ; which task, even with the aid of heavy axes, a saw, and fresh relays of operators, took us nearly three hours before it was accomplished, when, cutting off the end of the tail and the tips of the ears and trunk to send to the " Cutchery " * for the Go- vernment reward, we slung the ivory on bamboos, and the Mulchers carried it on their shoulders. We descended the Ghaut by a shorter route than * Cutchery the collector's office. of the Old World. 349 the one we came by, and arrived at our hut by sunset, where we had the gratification of finding K and C enjoying a bath in the lake. We joined them, and after a most refreshing dip, sat down to a famous dinner, in which my chef de cuisine, " Five Minutes," outvied all his previous performances by indulging us in a most delicious pie made of the bison's marrow. After due justice had been done to the good cheer, and we had received the hearty con- gratulations of our guests on our shooting achieve- ments, we adjourned outside the hut, to indulge in the " fragrant weed " and the cup that cheers but does not inebriate, and B much amused us by relating an account of Paddy Lynch's first rencontre with "wild bastes." Paddy landed as a cadet at Madras, and was very shortly afterwards despatched to join a party of " griffins"* at Poonamallee, who were going up-country to join their respective regiments. Pat sent on his traps the day before, and early the next morning commenced his march, accompanied by his horsekeeper, who had a smattering of English. He had heard of bears and tigers up-country, so he went fully armed and equipped. After he had got a few miles from Madras, he came to a tank, in which he saw two strange black-looking creatures swimming about, that he took to be alligators or hippopotami (he * Griffins officers who have not completed their first year's service. 350 The Hunting Grounds was not sure which). He immediately dismounted, drew his shot, and, loading with ball, stole as gingerly as he could towards his game, which to his surprise allowed him to approach tolerably near, when they snorted in his face. Pat, taking a fair aim at the head of the first, let drive, and immediately the animal sank ; he then blazed away at the other, and wounded it so severely that it began spinning round in the water. He loaded again, and after some more dis- charges, he " cooked its goose," and was in great glee at having killed his first " large game." He, however, forbore going into the tank to fetch them out, as he said "he felt a bit scared-like for fear there might be any more o' the craturs at the bottom of the wather," so he called upon some villagers to help him. When he had pointed out his game, to his great surprise they began a series of vociferations and lamentations, beat- ing their breasts, and howling in a most frantic manner. "By the Powers !" says Pat, "sure it's one of their sacred alligators I've been shooting !" So, mounting his horse, he set off at full speed to Poonamallee, where he arrived just as they were sitting down to breakfast. He immediately told his adventure. The griffins listened with wonder, but a cloud passed over the face of the officer in charge, who, turning round in a very grave manner to Pat, said : " Mr. Lynch, I am afraid you have killed a brace of niggers, and got yourself into a mess." Pat declared he had not, but of the Old World. 351 remained very glum all the rest of the time at break- fast, when suddenly a row was heard outside. Pat recognised his horsekeeper's voice, flew out of the door, and in a moment returned shouting, " Sure, Captain, they arn't niggers at all, but just a fine brace of sea-cows I've bagged, for they're being brought in slung on poles." Need I say that Pat had killed a couple of tame buffaloes as they were swimming in the tank with their noses just above water, and he only got out of his mess by the prompt payment of some forty rupees, and a good "wigging" from the commanding officer of the station. After B 's story, which was deservedly much applauded, whilst we were discussing brandy-panee and cheroots, and talking over the events of the day, B and K had a lively discussion regarding the relative size and strength of the lion and the tiger, and, as I had had some experience with both, the question was referred to me. I gave it as my opinion that the tiger was the larger and more pow- erful of the two, but that the lion, generally speaking, showed the most pluck. " That is just what I have been contending, Hal," exclaimed B ; " but give us a Cape yarn to pass away the time, and afterwards we will have a song or two, and turn in, so as to be up betimes in the morning." " All right," I replied, wetting my whistle, " I'll 352 The Hunting Grounds give you an account of my first lion. I was rusti- cating at Natal, with an old chum who had given up the service to turn settler, a little way up-country, and was ahout to convert his sword into a pruning- hook, when one day, as we were sitting under a mat awning in front of the house smoking our manillas after breakfast, a Dutch pedlar, of the name of Vanderhalt (a well-known character in that colony), came up and informed us that he had seen a herd of spring-buck in the Berere, a large belt of jungle some few miles distant. S , who was also very fond of sport, gave him some tea and a bundle of cheroots, provided he would accompany us and show us their trail, and mounting our nags we set out with our guns and rifles, and, after a ride of five hours, came upon the slots of the herd. These animals, which take their name from the amazing springs they make over bushes, or any obstruction that lies in their path, are rather less than the common deer and about the same colour, with a white stripe on each side, and a black stripe or mane along the back, which they have the power of closing or expanding. They are sometimes caught with greyhounds, but it takes a good dog to run them down. Confident in their fleetness, it is very amusing to see the contemp- tuous way in which they treat their pursuers ; as they allow them to come near, and then, giving a bound and a snort, expand the hair on their backs, and of the Old World. 353 change colour, appearing white. They are extremely graceful creatures, jumping beautifully, with the head thrown back, the legs doubled quite under, and the body curved, so that they appear for the moment as if suspended in the air. We were all, the Dutchman included, well mounted on beautiful Cape horses belonging to S , and accompanied by a native servant, who had followed his master's fortunes over the "Kala Panee" (Black Waters), and a Hottentot boy of the name of Hans Kleine (John the Lesser), who was quite a lustis naturae, for " His back went in, and his belly stuck out, And his lips resembled a grunter's snout." But he rode well, and carried a goat's skin full of water, some grog, and a couple of bottles of cognac. S was armed with a double fowling-piece ; the Dutchman with a huge antediluvian single rifle, nearly six feet in length, called a " roah ; " and I had my pet double rifle (ten-guage), loaded with Jacob's cylindro-conical balls, and a smooth-bore of the same calibre, besides pistols in my holsters. We followed the trail for some time, passing through a series of grassy plains, separated from each other by copses of the delicate-leaved mimosa, covered with golden-yellow blossoms, which emitted a de- lightful perfume, until we came to a river, the banks 2 A 354 The Hunting Grounds of which were covered with reeds, twenty yards in breadth ; and as the stream was low, there having been a drought for some time, we managed to find a ford, the water coming up to our saddle-girths. When we arrived at the other side, we perceived from the slots that the herd had scattered over the plain, as if they had been suddenly alarmed ; and, on closer investigation, we found the pugs of two full-grown lions and a pair of half-grown cubs, which fully accounted for the panic that had taken place. It was evident that these animals had been lurking in a mimosa-grove, by the side of the river, and lying in wait for their prey as they came to drink ; and, from the freshness of the pugs, I felt sure they could not be far off, so I followed their spoor for about a mile over the plain (which was hard, firm, and good riding-ground), until I came to a low cone-shaped hill, which I ascended, to get a better survey of the surrounding country. I was sweeping the horizon with my field-glass, which was not of much use, on account of a mirage that obstructed the view, and made all distant objects look dim, when " Kleine," the Hottentot boy, tap- ping me on the shoulder, pointed out a flock of vultures that were circling in the air at some short distance, saying, "" Dar ist der verdamt tau !" (There is the cursed lion !) I turned my glass to the spot, without distinguishing anything, but on cantering of the Old World. 355 ahead, I soon had the gratification of seeing a full- grown lion and lioness, with two half-grown cubs, feasting on the remains of two spring-bucks. I looked to my nipples, to see the powder was well up, and rode towards them ; but my horse did not at all like the sport, and became so extremely violent and restive, from fear, as to be almost unmanageable, and finding that I should have had no chance of firing from the saddle with any precision, I had to return to S , who, with the Dutchman and servants, had pulled up, on observing the lions, which were game none of them seemed inclined to attack, for although S was a fearless hunter, he had been suffering from an inflammation and weakness of the eyes, caused by the excessive glare of the sun reflected from the sand, and his sight was so much affected that he could no longer depend upon his aim as in days of yore. I therefore dismounted, and prepared to open the campaign on my own hook trusting to a steady hand and good weapons to see me safely through it. On my retreat, on account of the restive- ness of my horse, the lion had advanced nearly two hundred yards from the spot where the dead spring- bucks lay, leaving the lioness and cubs still feeding, and he was now coolly surveying our party, stretched out at full length on the grass, with his paws out before him, and yawning listlessly, about four hundred yards distant. On perceiving me advancing towards 2 A 2 350 The Hunting Grounds him, he made a long, low moaning noise, like thunder rumbling among distant hills, by which he thought perhaps to intimidate me ; but, finding it had not the desired effect, he got up and sat on his haunches like a dog, making curious whining noises, and turning his head every now and again to look at his mate and cubs, who understanding from his growling, which was becoming more and more savage, that something was up, withdrew to some low sand-hills, a short distance away, which I was rather thankful for. When I got to about two hundred and fifty yards distant, I stopped to unsling my second gun from my shoulder, so as to be ready ; on which my friend sprung to his feet, and made three or four huge bounds towards me, lashing his tail from side to side, showing his teeth, and giving a tremendous roar, which seemed to shake the earth, and caused the horse 1 had been riding to break from the grasp of the Hottentot, who was holding it, and scour over the plain. On seeing me advance, he again stopped, and, couching low on his belly, growled in a most savage manner. I felt that "the die was cast," and there was no retreating; it was a regular duel be- tween man and beast, and was beginning to be rather serious work, for we were barely sixty yards asunder. The lion still lay with his head couched between his paws, although every now and then he appeared to rise, and tear up the earth with his hind of the Old World. 357 claws. His eye-balls glistened with rage, his mane stood erect, his tail lashed his flanks, and I felt he was watching my every movement, and that further delay was dangerous. I therefore quietly cocked my second gun, laid it by my side on the ground, and then gave a loud shout, at the same time flinging my pith hunting-cap towards him. This had the desired effect; he sprung upon his feet, and at this moment looked grand beyond conception. Now was the moment : I threw up my rifle; took deliberate aim at his broad and massive breast, and let fly. I heard the soft "thud" of the ball as it entered his chest, saw him spring high into the air, and fall upon his back. I rushed up to give him a coup de grace, but it was not needed ; a con- vulsive tremor passed over his sturdy limbs, blood gushed from his nose and mouth, the under-jaw dropped, and my first lion was dead. He was a noble animal, measuring over eleven feet from the tip of his nose to the end of the tail. The lioness and cubs, on hearing the shot, made for a small copse about a mile distant ; and, as it was too late in the day to pursue them, after S had caught my horse we skinned the lion, cut off his head as a trophy, packed them behind Kleine's saddle, and made the best of our way back home, where we arrived late in the evening. After my yarn, songs passed round until a late hour, and as my old hunting-chaunts had begun to be 358 The Hunting Grounds very stale from frequent repetition, and new ones were not obtainable, I extemporised the following words, and sang them to old English airs, when my turn came round : THE BRITON'S SONG.* THERE'S a magical charm in the land of our birth, Which, seek where you will, is not found else on earth ; You may search till you tire, from the pole to the zone, But where will you mid such a land as our own. Her daughters are fairest, and what nation dare brave The Isles'-men of Britain, the Queen of the "Wave ; I have roam'd thro' the world, but I cannot compare Any men with her sons, any maids with her fair. CHORUS. Then fill up your bumpers, and drink to my toast I I pledge ye " The Island" we all love the most : The gem of the ocean, the pride of the earth, The bulwark of freedom, the Land of our birth ! The red cross of Britain is the pride of the main, An emblem of freedom, a flag without stain ; Go search thro' creation, on the land, o'er the wave, That standard ne'er floats o'er the head of a slave. Like a meteor it shines, for 'tis borne to the field By those who may die, but who never will yield ; Go search in Fame's volume, you'll find there its story, And Britain's fair name, midst a halo of glory. CHORUS. Then fill up your bumpers, and drink to my toast ! I pledge ye " The Island" we all love the most : The gem of the ocean, the pride of the earth, The bulwark of freedom, the Land of our birth ! * Afterwards set to music by H. W. A. BEALE, Esq. of the Old World. 359 THE OLD SONG.* THERE 's something in the well-known tone Of ancient ballad lays, That calls to mind, though years have flown, The friends of early days. I've seen them cause the tears to start, From sternest soldier's eye ; No modern strains could touch his heart Like those of days gone by. CHORUS. Then sing to me the songs of yore ! For, though they make me sigh, They bring to mind dear friends once more, And happy days gone by. I love to hear the ancient lays My mother used to sing ; They tell me of my childhood's days, And fond thoughts backwards bring. I dream of days of hope and joy, "Whene'er I hear that strain ; I think that I am still a boy, And hear her voice again. CHORUS. Then sing to me the songs of yore ! For, though they make me sigh, They bring to mind dear friends once more, And happy days gone by. The echoes of the wood were several times awakened by our rattling choruses, which reverbe- * Afterwards set to music by H. W. A. BEALE, Esq., and published by Messrs. OLLIVIEK, Bond Street. 360 The Hunting Grounds rated in a most strange manner against the face of the cliff overhanging our retreat, and the moon was high in the heavens before we turned in for the night. We slept long and soundly, as hunters generally do after a hard day's fag, but as soon as the gray light of dawn appeared, the stirring strains of K 's bugle rang through the valley, and, obeying its cheer- ful summons, we hastily arrayed ourselves in our hunting-gear, assembled round the fire, and partook of a hurried collation previous to ascending the Ghaut. The Coolies accompanied us with supplies, as it was our intention to remain for a day or two at my former bivouac at the head of the Fall, in the hopes of falling in with the herd of elephants reported to have been seen by the Carders some days previously. We entered the jungle as day was breaking, and, after a tedious ascent, arrived at the head of the Fall about noon, where we immediately commenced build- ing a commodious hut, as our former one was too small. As soon as our arrangements were completed, B and I started on a pot-hunting expedition, K and C being too much done-up to accom- pany us, and, after half an hour's beating, managed to bag a couple of jungle-fowl and five hares, which latter were very much larger than those found in the low country. On our return to the hut with our game, we found such a feast awaiting us that we of the Old World. 361 hardly .knew what to commence with. An immense round of Dawson's celebrated spiced beef was backed up by a Yorkshire ham, 'a roast squeaker, and a marrow-pie ; besides which, cakes smoking hot from the oven, pilau, curry, and piles of wild raspberries and strawberries, garnished the board. Having done ample justice to our good cheer, we withdrew to the watch-fire, where all our people were assembled, and, after distributing the usual allowance of tobacco and grog to every man in camp, we held a consultation, in which it was determined that we should divide into two reconnoitring parties on the morrow ; B and C with Chineah and four of the gang form- ing one, and K , myself, with Googooloo and three others, the second. This settled, we retired to the hut, and, after a rubber of whist, turned in. We were up long before the sun the next morning, and, after a hearty breakfast, started at a good pace towards the spot where the Carders had fallen in with the elephants. After half an hour's tramp we came across an old trail, which B J s party fol- lowed up, whilst mine continued our route through beautiful open teak-jungle, carpeted with green turf, most deliciously soft and elastic under foot. There were plenty of bison-tracks everywhere to be seen, some of which were quite fresh ; and Goo- gooloo pointed out to K a tuft of herbage that had been very recently torn up by one of those ani- 362 The Hunting Grounds mals, as saliva was still remaining on it. We fol- lowed up the trail for a short distance, in the hopes of obtaining a shot, but could not get a glimpse of them. Towards noon we fell in with the spoor of an ele- phant, that appeared to be about twenty-four hours old, and we continued to track it up until late in the afternoon, when, my companion giving evident signs of fatigue, we made preparations for passing the night, by building a couple of huts close to a small rivulet, which looked clear and sparkling as a trout- stream in Scotland. It was a beautiful spot for a camp, as on all sides rose hills covered with dense deep-green forest, intersected with innumerable moun- tain-streams, which emerged from the trees and glistened like silver threads in the light of the set- ting sun. Our day's fag told upon us ; for within half an hour after our dinner we were all coiled up in our blankets fast asleep, and did not stir until Googooloo informed us that dawn was breaking, when, giving ourselves a shake, we adjourned to the brook to perform our ablutions whilst breakfast was preparing. This finished, we again started on trail ; and, as we were following up the spoor of the day before, I found unmistakeable signs that a herd of elephants had passed by within a very short time. We immediately followed up at our best pace, and in a couple of hours fell in with the rear guard, consisting of three females, of the Old World. 363 which I had some difficulty in preventing my com- panion from firing at, as they were the first wild elephants he had ever seen. I never cared to pull trigger at the " gentler sex," and, as the herd appeared to number about eleven, I concluded there must be a bull amongst them. I told K to wait under cover as quietly as possible, whilst I went forward to reconnoitre ; but I had hardly left the spot, when I heard a double shot, followed by a scream of rage, and, turning back, to my horror I saw my companion running for his life through the jungle, with a tusker closely following him tail on end. The elephant, notwithstanding his apparently unwieldly shape, gets over the ground much faster than one would suppose, and poor K would have had no chance if he had not been able to dodge him, by running round trees. I could not for the moment get a fair shot at any vulnerable part ; but, seeing that the elephant had got so near that he could almost have reached him with his trunk, I let drive a double shot at his ear, and brought him to his knees, which gave K time to clamber up into a tree. It was a very near touch, for he was breathless, and another few seconds would have seen him trampled under foot ; as it was, I was able to despatch the tusker with my second gun, which Googooloo handed to me just as he began to recover himself, and was getting on his knees. K told me that the moment I left him he heard a slight 364 The Hunting Grounds rustling in the cover close to where we were standing, and almost immediately the tusker made his appear- ance, coming directly towards him, when he fired a couple of hurried shots and took to his heels, seeing that he did not drop. I fancy that he must have lost his presence of mind when he saw the huge brute advancing towards him ; as only one of his shots had taken effect, and that high up in the forehead. I congratulated him upon his escape, which was cer- tainly due more to good luck than good management, as in the position I was in, and the distance, it must have been entirely a chance shot of mine that drop- ped him. The sound of our guns caused a great panic in the herd ; and they rushed about crashing through the jungle at a great pace, which led me to suppose that they would not pull up until they had covered a good deal of ground ; and as K found he had sprained his ancle in his flight, which pre- vented him from walking comfortably, we gave up all thoughts of further pursuit. Leaving two of our people to cut out the tusks, which were small, not exceeding thirty pounds in weight, we made the best of our way back to the hut, where we found B 's party busily occupied in preserving the skins of two bison, which they had killed the day previous. During the afternoon, heavy banks of dark clouds arose, which I knew prognosticated a storm ; so we strengthened our hut, and spread extra comblies on of the Old World. 365 the weather-side, so as to make it impervious to the weather. Hardly were our preparations completed, when the sky became uniformly black and gleamless, except when illuminated at intervals by the flashes of bluish-white lightning, and the thunder, reverberating among the mountains like the rolling of distant artil- lery, now came nearer and nearer, until it seemed to peal directly over head, whilst the rain, in a perfect deluge, poured down upon the hot earth with that peculiar hissing sound heard only in the tropical climates. Later in the evening, the storm passed over, and the night became bitterly cold, dense vapours rising from the ground, which could not be otherwise than unhealthy ; so it was determined to commence a retrograde movement. We accordingly started early the next morning for our hut in the valley below, packed up our traps, and halted for the night at the public bungalow near the village of Annamullay. The next day we pushed on to Coimbatore, where we remained a couple of days, as B was suffering from diarrho3a, and then re- turned to my domicile at Ootacamund. 366 The Hunting Grounds IL-CIRCASSIA, CHAPTER XXI. Omer Pacha. My followers. Bashi-Bazouks. Houssain the Arnout. Ahmed the Koord. All the Nubian. Mahomed the Arab. Sied Cassim the Dervish. Abdulla the guide. Captain Dymock's grave. God ova. Wild-fowl. A heavy bag. The climate of Circassia. The inhabitants : their man- ners, customs, and dress. Circassian women. The Illori chieftain. The " Faithful " and the " forbidden indulgence." Omer Pacha, a humbug. His reputation amongst the Turkish officers. His wound accounted for. His acquisitiveness and plunder. A fearful chase by wolves. The Turkish Colonel's advice. Sulleiman Pacha. His purchase. Revolt of the liareem. The catastrophe and finale. A FTER the fall of Sevastopol, I was attached, *^^ with several other British officers, to the general staff of that part of the Ottoman army under the command of Omer Pacha, which was destined to relieve Sir William Williams and the brave garrison of Kars, then closely invested by General Mouravieff ; but, disgusted with the dilatory and vacillating conduct of a leader whose cowardice or treachery allowed the of the Old World. 367 sole object of the expedition to fail, I obtained leave to throw up my appointment and return to the Crimea, where I hoped again to partake of more stirring deeds. But it was not to be "the de'il confound the ministry ; " they began to make peace at the time we had just warmed to our work, and when we were best able to carry on the war the armistice was signed, peace concluded, and " Othello's occupation gone." Finding it was uncertain when a steamer was likely to touch at Tchamshira, the nearest point of embarkation to Sugdidi, where the head-quarters of the army were established, I resolved to go to Suchum Kaleh by land, amusing myself with shooting amongst the lower spurs of the Caucasus en route. Besides a guide, I had five well-tried followers, whom I had picked up from amongst the Bashi- Bazouks during the campaign of the Danube : a fearless set of men, ever true to their salt, who cared neither for laws nor Pachas, and who, being used to campaigning and foraging, were just the fellows to have about one in a country where " might is right," and "he may take who has the power, and he may keep who can ; " for, although the Russians had vacated those districts some time previously, pre- datory bands of Abassians, Mingrelians, and Cir- cassians were continually prowling about, not par- ticularly nice as to whom they plundered. We were all well armed and mounted on Arabs, or sturdy 368 The Hunting Grounds little Kurdish horses, besides having three shaggy mountain ponies to carry our baggage, or rather to carry whatever we might pick up, for a Bashi-Bazouk always returns heavier laden than when he set out, if he knows his trade. The cognomen " Bashi-Bazouk " is a composite Turkish word for a class of individuals who would be allowed to exist in no country in the world save Turkey or perhaps Central America, where the term "filibus- ter " appears to be almost synonymous. It is derived from " Bash," a head " ba," without, " Zouk, " brains, literally, though not in reality, "a head without brains :" certainly not an appropriate name for men who have to live by their wits. Among the horde I commanded on the Danube before our troops landed at Varna, I counted men of twenty-seven different nations and castes. My troop were a queer set, and merit a slight description. Hoossain, an Arnout, had been a "chaus " or serjeant, in one of the Turkish regiments engaged at Silistria, and having been deputed to wait upon me by Moosa Pacha (the gallant Arab leader who was afterwards killed on the ramparts by the explosion of a shell during the siege), found my service preferable to soldiering, at the nominal pay of twenty piastres per mensem (then twenty-two months in arrears), and, as he was a plucky, honest, and useful fellow, I kept him always with me. Fortune of the Old World. 369 had dealt kindly with him ; and as he had managed, by hook or by crook, to amass a sufficient quantity of gear and sundries to enable him to smoke his pipe in comfort for the remainder of his life, he had given up all intentions of joining his regiment again. In camp, before Sevastopol, during the siege, he was a well- known character, glorying in the name of " Ingleese Jonnie," for, by dint of "wrinkles" picked up from an old corporal of Zouaves, my chef de cuisine, and sundry lessons from poor old Soyer, now, alas ! gone to " kingdom come," he was no despicable cook, and formed a great addition to any party "sub tegmine fagi" whether out foraging in front of the enemy near Baidar, or picnicking with amateur campaigners at the Monastery of St. George. The second, Ahmed, was a Koord, one of the followers of the Princess Kara Fathama, and a "mu- lassim," or lieutenant, of Bashi-Bazouks ; a fearless, devil-may-care kind of fellow, who, having received some fancied insult and extortion from a Pacha, hated all Turkish authorities like poison, and seemed to glory in setting them at defiance. He was strikingly handsome, a splendid horseman, a famous fellow in a brush, and the beau ideal of a Bashi-Bazouk. The third, Ali, commonly called " Kutchuc" (the Little One), was a Nubian of colossal proportions and gigantic strength, who was devoted to me, I having saved him from the Cossacks in an affair on the 2 B 370 The Hunting Grounds Danube, after he had been disabled by several severe wounds, and abandoned by his comrades, which service he amply repaid afterwards, when I, in my turn, was laid on my back, by his constant attention and unwearied care for my wants. The fourth, Mahomed, was an Arab, or rather, a Khabyle by birth, who had fought with the Emir Abdel-Kader against the French, and, having been obliged to fly his country, had entered the corps of Bashi-Bazouks, from whence I took him to look after my horses, he being a first-rate groom. The fifth, Sied Cassim, was a Hindoostanee from Northern India, who, being of a roving disposition, had turned " Fakeer," or dervish ; and, after having performed the "Hadj," or pilgrimage to Mecca, had wandered all over Asia Minor and Persia, and at last enrolled himself in the ranks of the Bashi-Bazouks. He was a trustworthy fellow, and, being a good scholar in Persian, Hindoostanee, Arabic, and Turkish, used to act as paymaster, or rather as the divider of the spoils, and keep the accounts, from which he usually went by the name of the " Vakeel," or secretary. He claimed also to be a descendant of the prophet, and always wore the significant badge, a green turban. Our guide, Abdulla, was likewise a Hindoostanee by birth, but had left his country when a child with an Arab cloth-merchant, who had sold him to the of the Old World. 371 Circassians, by whom he had been adopted as one of themselves. He was a great chum of Cassim's, and I took him into my service, as he had a good knowledge of the Circassian and Abassian languages, as well as the various dialects of the different mountain-tribes, and was well acquainted with the country. Being quite a youth, he generally went by the name of " Chojuck" (the Young One). His office was that of interpreter, and he was charged with the care of five very handsome greyhounds and a pointer, which fell into my hands by the fortune of war, and furnished me with many a game dinner when nothing else was procurable. We left Sugdidi early in the morning, crossing the Ingur, by the redoubt which was thrown up by the Ottoman troops after they had forced the passage on the morning of the 7th November, when poor Captain Dymock fell, shot through the heart, whilst he was leading the column to the attack. We buried him close to where he fell, under two beautiful trees, covered with festoons of wild vine. I stayed a few moments to take a hurried sketch of a brave com- rade's last resting-place, and then rode on to Godova, on the coast, where we arrived about 3 P.M. I was most hospitably received by an old Colonel of infantry, who, with his regiment, was left in charge of some stores ; and in a marsh near the village I killed a couple of pintail ducks, three couple of snipe, 2 B 2 372 The Hunting Grounds and a bittern, and " Guimish" (Silver), one of my greyhounds, caught a hare. The country round about Godova is densely wooded ; oak, ash, chestnut, walnut, and most kinds of European fruit-trees seeming to grow indigenous and in the wildest luxuriance, whilst the loveliest flowers bloom in perfection ; amongst which I noticed the tulip, anemone, hyacinth, ranunculus, rose, pink, jasmine, and violet, besides numberless other species with which I was not previously acquainted. The lower spurs of the Caucasus, the grandest of mountain ranges, rise about seven miles to the eastward of the village, and run parallel to the coast. The lower ranges are clothed with dense and almost impene- trable primeval forest, whilst the higher are covered with perpetual snow, and generally enshrouded by mists. The heavy falls of rain, and the melting of snow and ice on the mountains, in the summer, when the power of the sun is strong, swell the numerous rivers and watercourses into mighty torrents, causing them to overflow their banks and inundate the surrounding country ; forming large marshes or bogs, which, at certain seasons of the year, are almost alive with waterfowl of different kinds, whilst snipe and wood- cock are to be found in thousands. It is my belief that swans, ducks, and geese of all kinds, besides snipe and woodcock, choose these of the Old World. 3/3 secluded and almost inaccessible spots to breed in, migrating here for that purpose from all the other countries of Europe. I have killed seventeen dif- ferent species of duck and teal in one jheel, the water in places where the weed abounded on which they feed being black with them. They were evidently unaccustomed to the sound of a gun, for, when the echoes of the report died away in the distant hills, they would settle down in the same place without taking alarm, although each discharge brought down about a dozen of their number. The bag that might be made may be estimated from the fact that I killed in one day in a jheel near the foot of the Abassadagh Mountain, fourteen miles from Tshamshira, thirty- four brace of woodcock, eleven couple of snipe, seven geese, and sixty-one ducks ; and could have continued the slaughter, were it not that the villagers, for whose benefit it was intended, declared that they could not carry more away. I think I must have flushed that day at least a hundred brace of cock, besides snipe innumerable. I hope my reader will not imagine from this account that I at all countenance or am in favour of such wholesale destruction as a general thing ; but it must be remembered that at this time I had many mouths to feed, that food of any kind was at a premium, and I had nothing in store except mouldy Turkish ration biscuit, full of weevils and other such indescribable animalculae. 374 The Hunting Grounds The climate, soil, and magnificence of scenery, render the east coast of the Black Sea one of the most beautiful and interesting countries in the world. It is abundantly irrigated by numberless rivers flow- ing from the mountains, and the valleys are extremely fertile, producing cotton, rice, wheat, millet, Indian corn, hemp, flax, and quantities of excellent grasses, with little labour ; yet the inhabitants are generally poor, holding in contempt agriculture and all em- ployments of a peaceful kind. They are divided into several nations, tribes, and castes, which are again subdivided. The principal are the Tcherkesses, the Kabardines, the Abbassians, the Mingrelians, and the Georgians. The Tcherkesses, or Circassians, said to be derived from the Tyches (who settled in the country several centuries ago), are essentially moun- taineers, and have many qualities in common with the Scottish Highlanders of the olden day. Their element is war, and they possess all the characteristics peculiar to the inhabitants of lofty regions, being divided into tribes and clans, each of which is governed by a chief invested with the power of life and death over his followers. They chiefly profess the Mahomedan religion, but, having no written lan- guage, their faith differs considerably from that of other Mussulmen ; a traditionary history and code of laws, which has been transmitted from age to age, and become hallowed from its antiquity, being substituted of the Old World. 375 for the Koran. The old men act as judges, and settle all the affairs of the community, subject to the supreme authority of the chief, whose will is law. They are an exceedingly fine and handsome race ; the men being tall, well-made, and muscular, though rather of slight build, with pleasing features, flowing beards, and remarkably small hands and feet. The dress of the common people in some respects resembles that of the Tartars, but is more elegant ; it consists of a sheepskin cap with high peak of grey cloth, white or yellow linen tight-fitting trousers, yellow boots, and shirt-like tunic, bound with gold or silver lace, having on each side of the breast cases made of morocco for holding cartridges. Their arms are a kind of rifled matchlock, pistol, sabre, and broad, heavy, double-edged poignard. Their chiefs or nobles, however, present a much more brilliant spectacle when in full dress, being clad, like our knights of old, in coats of mail composed of rings of steel joined together with the most beautiful work- manship, and armed with damascened sabres, daggers, and richly-ornamented pistols, often inlaid with gold. Their women have long been celebrated for their extreme beauty, the harems of Constantinople being kept supplied from the descendants of slaves, though not, as is generally supposed, from the families of the free tribes. They are of slender and elegant figures, with regular features, white skin, and dark 376 The Hunting Grounds brown or black hair, with blue eyes. They are in general neither reserved nor confined, but at the age of ten or twelve years they are incased in a broad leathern band tightly sewn round the waist, which they wear until marriage. Over a low-cut chemise they wear a long laced jacket with wide trousers, and they heighten their beauty by painting their eye- brows with a preparation of antimony called "soor- mah," and stain the nails of the toes and fingers with henna. Their hair is generally plaited and falls down the back, and a small sheepskin cap, with the upper part embroidered, is commonly worn. Their villages consist only of "konaks" or log- huts, plastered with clay inside, and seldom con- taining more than one room. A wooden bench or sedan runs all round, and one part, covered with matting, serves as a bed. The only furniture or gar- niture, are the saddles, arms, and a few brass or copper cooking-utensils. The customs of ancient Sparta are in some degree in force amongst them, the youths being brought up in all bodily exercises calculated to increase strength and agility such as riding, running, wrestling, shooting, and they are accustomed to endure hunger and fatigue. To fall in the field is considered an honour, and to kill an enemy a triumph ; stealing is also allowed and encouraged, that is, provided it is not found out, for, if the culprit is detected, he is of the Old World. 377 bound to restore the stolen property sevenfold. Murder or crime is generally punished by fine, more or less, according to the rank of the victim. Some of the Kabardines and Abassians profess a kind of Christianity, but they are a more degenerate and treacherous race than the Circassians, who, though cruel crafty enemies, are extremely hospitable and more to be depended upon. A petty chieftain, who lived with his tribe in the mountains to the northward of Illori, dined with us ; and, as he spoke Turkish tolerably well and was exceedingly communicative, I gleaned a good deal of useful information about the country and the kind of game that was likely to be met with. According to his account, bears of an immense size, as well as wolves, hyenas, and jackals were to be found on the mountains, besides red-deer, wild cattle, hog, wild goats, and sheep (which latter proved to be ibex and chamois). He invited me to visit his "konak" en route, and undertook to show me game of different kinds, which offer I was glad to accept. When the repast was over, coffee served, and the servants out of the way, I produced a little keg of brandy ; and, notwithstanding we were all supposed to be good Mussulmen, it went round merrily, and opened the hearts of " the Faithful." The " cratur " made the eyes of the old Osmanli colonel glisten again, and, as the keg passed round 378 The Hunting Grounds pretty often, it soon began to show its effects, ren- dering him extremely loquacious, and he recounted several very amusing incidents of his early service, besides expatiating, in the strongest of Turkish Bil- lingsgate, against the Sirdar Ekrem Omer Pacha, whom he denounced as an arch-humbug, who has usurped the credit of other men's acts, and gained the position he held by cringing servility, base intrigue, and despicable chicanery being totally destitute of all those qualities which he ought to possess, not only as a general, but a man. He was said never to have been under fire except on one occasion when he could not help himself (at Eupatoria) ; and the small scar he has on his wrist, which he often brags about, and shows to strangers as a wound, was thus accounted for: During one of the outbreaks of the "Ryahs" or Christian subjects of the Porte, in Southern Turkey, he was sent in command of a body of troops against a walled village not very far from Monastir, which was vigorously defended by the inhabitants, armed only with matchlocks and ataghans. A long- continued drought had dried up most of the wells in the enceinte of the place, and the besieged had to obtain their supply from a spring in the ditch outside the walls, which task was generally undertaken by the women and children after nightfall. This fact was communicated to Omer Pacha by some of his sycophants, and he ordered the small brass rifled of the Old World. 379 mountain-piece, which he always keeps in front of his tent, to be pointed so as to command the source on a rising ground far out of range of the small-arms of the garrison. During the night a noise was heard in the ditch by some of the advanced sentries, and the Pacha was informed that the villagers were drawing water: he immediately rushed to his gun and loaded it, not knowing that one of his staff had previously made it all ready for him. When he applied the match, the piece, being doubly charged, recoiled vio- lently, knocking down the Pacha on the broad of his back, with half-a-dozen of his hangers-on, and injuring his wrist. Thus is the only wound Omer Pacha ever received accounted for, and it is not to be wondered at if he never mentions how and when he got it. Omer Pacha had appropriated to himself the whole of the plunder of Princess Dadien's palace at Sugdidi, despatching for his own use, at Constantinople, a magnificent collection of furniture, consisting of chairs and couches covered with crimson velvet, beautiful inlaid tables, magnificent chandeliers, and articles of virtu, which looked like recent importations from Paris. The tame deer and peafowl were killed for his table, and the exotic plants transported to his garden at Stamboul. Story-telling is a great amusement amongst the Turks, and each of us in his turn had to contribute some anecdote for the amusement of the rest. 380 The Hunting Grounds The Abbassian chief gave us a very thrilling account of the loss of five of his tribe, with some pri- soners, by wolves, during the winter of 1852, when the whole country lay covered with snow for months together. It appears that a force had been collected and sent out in the plains to harass and annoy the Russians, but, having met with a reverse, they scat- tered, and each tribe made the best of their way homeward. The Abbassian party, to which the nar- rator belonged, consisted of eleven men fairly mounted and armed with matchlocks, pistols, and swords, with five prisoners four Russian soldiers and a woman. As they were traversing a vast steppe or plain they per- ceived a pack of seven wolves slowly following them, of which number they killed two or three with their matchlocks, for the sake of the fur, and, dispersing the rest, continued their journey. Shortly afterwards a strange howling noise was heard in the rear, which at first sounded like the roaring of the wind, but afterwards increased to such a pitch, that they thought Jehannum (the infernal regions) was turned loose, and that the cry they had heard was the exulting laugh of the "gins" and "afrits" (evil spirits), whom they believe to inhabit the impenetrable snows of Mount El-bruz. At length their attention was called to a dark mass of black objects spreading over the snow, like a cloud on the horizon, and the full extent of their danger now burst upon them, of the Old World. 381 for they knew they were pursued by a horde of wolves. Their horses were already fatigued with a long day's journey, but terror seemed to give them wings, for they tore along as if they knew their peril, and for awhile seemed to hold their own. The nearest " konak" or hamlet was at least two "saat" or seven miles distant, and the ground was in many places so deep with drifted snow that their horses could hardly get along. The crisis was now evidently fast ap- proaching, for the advanced troop were almost within gun-shot, howling and yelling as wolves only can. A brief consultation was held, and it was determined to sacrifice the prisoners one by one, so as to gain time for the rest to escape. The woman met her fate first, one of their number stepping behind, drew his sabre across the hocks of her horse, hamstringing it, and causing both to fall heavily to the ground. Her shrieks, as well as the cry of the horse in his death agony, rang through their ears for a moment, and then all was still. They anxiously looked back, and found that this desperate expedient had enabled them to gain a considerable distance on their pursuers, but it was not for long ; they were soon again on their heels, when a Russian soldier was sacrificed by shoot- ing his horse ; a second, third, and fourth followed, and much time was gained and a considerable dis- tance covered : still their insatiable foes pressed on, 382 The Hunting Grounds apparently more ferocious than before, for their appetite was whetted with the taste of blood. They now commenced discharging their fire-arms amongst them, but it was of no avail, for although many fell, the rest rushed on, and the course of the horde was not stayed. The horses of two of their number now gave up and fell with shrieks that told they knew the fate that awaited them ; and, although their riders were swift on foot, they could not keep up their speed for any length of time in the deep snow, and soon became fatigued, so bidding their comrades farewell, they resigned themselves to their " kismet " (destiny), drew their yatagans, and shouting their battle-cry, died like men fighting to the last. The survivors were now within a couple of miles from shelter, but their horses were almost worn out, the leading wolves hardly a pistol-shot behind, and gaining upon them rapidly another moment, and they expected to feel their fangs, when an old man, whose two sons were also present, seeing the hopelessness of the case, bade his comrades farewell, and shouting out the "imaun" (Mahomedan creed) as a death-song, felled his horse to the ground with the heavy butt of his pistol, as he could not rein up the scared animal, and offered him- self a willing sacrifice to save the rest. On tore the survivors, now reduced to eight in number, and on followed their relentless pursuers, now again only half- a dozen horses' length behind. In spite of all their of the Old World. , 383 efforts, their doom seemed sealed, and their case hopeless, when their chief, giving an expressive look to the narrator, drew his pistol and shot the man nearest to him through the head. He threw up his arms and dropped the reins, but although stone-dead he sat firm in the saddle, the affrighted animal carry- ing him until a second discharge brought both to the ground. Again the pursuit was checked for a time, and the konak appeared in view ; luckily the door was open, for it was deserted, men and horses rushed in, the door was closed and a ponderous bar drawn across inside, when suddenly a loud heart-rending yell was heard from without, above the howling of the wolves, and they saw through the chinks between the logs, one of their comrades whose horse had broken down and lagged behind, unperceived by the rest, surrounded by the horde and fighting desperately a moment more and he was pulled from the saddle and both man and horse devoured before their eyes. Then the wolves surrounded the hut, and, finding themselves baulked of their prey, began to fight amongst each other, at times endeavouring to scratch away the earth under the logs or force their ways through the crevices, but the hut being substantially constructed, resisted all their efforts, and a deadly discharge of fire-arms was kept up from the interior, which thinned their numbers, and revenged their fallen friends, but the dead wolves were speedily de- 384 The Hunting Grounds voured by the survivors who remained howling and shrieking round the hut until the night of the second day, when a violent storm arose and they took them- selves off in the dark, much to the relief of the six survivors, who, seeing the coast clear, made the best of their way to their homes. " Allah kereem (God be merciful), but you had a wonderful escape !" exclaimed the old colonel, when the Illori chieftain had finished his story. "I thank Kismut (fate) that I was not with you on that day, or I should have stood but a poor chance in your desperate race for life (he weighed at least eighteen stone), and a shudder comes over me when I think of it ; and if I were you, oh ! Ingleese Bey (so he termed me), I should give up all idea of rambling about this desolate country, where one sees nothing but mountains, trees, rivers, and mud ; may go a moon's journey without falling in with a cafe, and where fighting comes oftener than one's dinner. Be advised, and embark at once for Stamboul, where you may enjoy your " kieff" (a dreamy state of listless idle- ness, peculiar to the Turks), and smoke your chibouk, surrounded with dark-eyed beauties, whose voices are more melodious than the cries of jackals, whose kisses are more desirable than the bites of wolves, and whose embraces are preferable to the hugs of bears. Heigh Allah ! when shall I see the blessed place again ? " "Shabash! (Bravo!) Bey Effendi !" I exclaimed; of the Old World. 385 " you are too greedy, and it is fortunate that every one is not of your opinion, or some would come poorly off; for where are all the women to come from, if every man required a troop ? I am more moderate, being content with one at a time ; besides which, I do not like having a continual ' karabalik ' (disturbance) in the house, which is always the case when women get together; for I am of the same opinion as the sage, who says that it is an easier task to rule a thousand men than to control two women ; and, to prove that my theory is correct, I will relate to you the sad fate of a man you all knew, who owed all his misfortunes to taking one woman too many in his establishment. " Sulleiman Pacha, late commandant of the first brigade that landed in the Crimea, was formerly a collector of customs in the Pachalik of Widdin, and subsequently held some lucrative civil appointment at Stamboul. Tax-gathering, for a number of years, had made Sulleiman Aga a rich man ; and through the interest of Mehemet Ali Pacha, backed up with a large packet of ' kaima ' (paper money) , the Aga was made a Lever Pacha (General of Brigade), and things went on swimmingly for a time. One day, however, the horizon of his destiny was darkened with the cloud of misfortune ; for as he was enjoying his chibouk at a cafe near the * Buyuk Chouk ' (Grand Bazaar), he was accosted by an old friend, and in an 2 c 386 The Hunting Grounds evil moment accepted an invitation to accompany him to a slave-merchant's ' khan,' in order to select a Nubian eunuch as a guardian for his harem. This matter settled, the slave-merchant took them to see a magnificent Georgian damsel, who was considered to be the finest importation for many years. Her price was eighty thousand piasters (about six hundred pounds sterling), and Sulleiman Pacha became so cap- tivated with her appearance, that, notwithstanding he was an elderly man, and had three wives at home, he became the purchaser; and the object of his affections was ordered to be conveyed to his garden-house near Scutari, on the extreme quiet, so that his other wives might hear nothing about it. The Pacha thought he observed a diabolical twinkle in the eye of the slave- dealer, when, after he had received his money, he wished him ' every felicity ;' but at the moment he merely thought he had been cheated out of some piastres, which, being rich, he did not care about, never imagining that he would have such cause to repent of his bargain. The cunning old fox then went home, and informed his wives that he was obliged to start on a journey, and after taking an affectionate farewell he set off for his country house. His reception could not have proved very satisfactory, nor did he ever disclose to me what actually passed, for although he has often related his grievances to me, at this point he invariably worked himself up in such I of the Old World. 387 a rage that I could make out little but a long string of curses against a cat-like fiend who must have escaped from ' Jehanum ' (the infernal regions), so I concluded he got his face clawed. However, he ad- mitted that he spent the night in a neighbouring cafe, and when he went home the next morning he found a mutiny had taken place in his harem ; for whether his scratched face and disordered appearance told tales, or some maliciously inclined persons had given his wives an insight into the affair, he knew not, but he was received with torrents of abuse. One knocked his turban off, a second pulled his beard, the third spat in his face, and they all left the marks of their nails on his person, besides belabouring him with the heels of their slippers until he was almost insensible, when the guardians of the fold of the 'third sex ' came to the rescue, and enabled him to get out of their clutches. Finding himself driven out of house and home, he grew desperate, and, being weary of his life, went for a soldier, thinking to terrify the household into subordination, for he had no idea of going to fight; and the Seraskier (Minister of War) gave him the command of a brigade of ' redifs ' (militia), which, unfortunately for our hero, were the first troops ordered out on active service in the Crimea, and he was obliged to go. Although not actually engaged, he saw quite enough at the battle of the Alma to turn his stomach against the profession he had chosen, 2 c 2 388 The Hunting Grounds and satisfy himself that the smell of powder did not agree with his constitution; so, after a solemn con- sultation with his second in command, Colonel Haleem Bey, as great a poltroon as himself, both parties de- camped one fine morning, without beat of drum, and found their way to Stamboul; for which act the Seraskier Kiza Pacha brought them up before the Mejlis (Council of War) on a charge 'of having cowardly abandoned their post in the field before the enemy ;' and in the presence of all the troops they were degraded from their respective ranks, and are now vegetating in prison. " This finale was however against my interests, as one evening before the Pacha left the Crimea, when we were talking about the chances of an engagement at an early period, he said, ' You are an Englishman and like fighting, and cannot be afraid of a woman ; so what do you say to taking my eighty thousand piasters' worth off my hands?' She is as good as when I bought her, and I will give you a house and garden with her, and adopt you as a son/ Of course I closed with his offer at once, but our little arrangement was put an end to by his sentence ; so you see, my friends, that the old adage is true which says, ' Wherever there is misfortune, a woman is sure to be at the bottom of it.' " of the Old World. 380 CHAPTER XXII. Circassian scenery. A false alarm. The Bey's Konak. Rifles and revolvers. Circassian cuisine. A goose cooked a la Mrs. Harris. Uninvited company. News of a bear. A night prowler. A Huntsman's toilet. The route through the ravines. The lair. The Bey's dogs give tongue. An enor- mous bear wounded. A man mauled. The Bruin bites the dust. The bivouac. Horses stolen. Mussulman apathy. The pursuit. The trail. The plunderers surprised and taken. Their punishment. THE next morning we all set out with the Illory Chieftain, and, after a four hours' ride through a densely-wooded country, arrived at the gorge of a romantically picturesque valley, which appeared to wind its way for several miles between two lofty mountain ridges, forming a part of the chain of the Caucasus ; a tortuous path, so narrow that we were obliged to ride in single file, and keep a sharp look- out that we did not come in contact with overhanging rocks or branches of trees, wound along the edge of a chasm, in which a foaming mountain-torrent dashed impetuously ; and, at times, we passed along the 390 The Hunting Grounds brinks of precipices which made the head giddy to look over. Here and there gigantic forest-trees stood out in bold relief, and towering crags of castelated form rose in every direction, whilst patches of gorgeous flowers of various colours were seen among the luxu- riant herbage, adding their rich tints, as if to harmonise with the exquisite beauty of the surrounding scenery. As we were picking our way over the strong bed of a mountain-stream which had cleft a wide opening through the forest, I was rather startled by hearing the sharp crack of a rifle, and the " ping " of a bullet high over our heads, which, from the streak of smoke, evidently came from a high rocky crag commanding the ford on the opposite bank ; and, instinctively, both myself and followers, apprehensive of treachery, un- slung our rifles, and prepared for action by springing from our saddles and taking advantage of the cover of huge boulders of rock that were scattered about in every direction. But the Illori Bey, who was much amused by our proceedings, informed us that we were approaching his "konak," and that the shot we heard was merely a signal from one of the outlying scouts of his tribe, who, being at feud with their neighbours, were obliged to keep a strict watch on the defile lead- ing to their hamlet. One of his followers answered the signal by discharging his pistol, and in a few moments a number of young men came galloping up on rough mountain-ponies, who gave us a cordial welcome, and of the Old World. 391 saluted us by touching our feet with the tips of their fingers, and then raising them to their foreheads. On the slope of a hill, surrounded by a small patch of Indian corn, stood the hamlet, which consisted of about half-a-dozen log-huts, each containing a single apartment ; and one of the largest, by the orders of the Bey, was cleared out of its occupants, consisting of an indiscriminate medley of men, women, children, ponies, sheep, goats, cows, buffaloes, geese, fowls, &c., and given up for the accomodation of my people and horses, being sufficiently roomy to contain all com- fortably. I was conducted to the "de wan-khan a," or guest- house, and introduced to the elders of the tribe as the " Ingleese Bey," where, after pipes and sherbet had been handed round by boys, I had to undergo a long series of cross-questioning as to the recent events of the war. At last my revolvers, which I always wore loaded in my belt, in case of accident, attracted their atten tion, and they all jumped up thunderstruck when I explained their action ; but I was not believed until I had exhibited their powers by lodging ten bullets in a small circle of a walnut-tree about twenty paces distant from the door of the hut. In order more strongly to impress upon their minds the nature of our armament so as to gu'ard against any attempt at treachery, I directed one of the boys to hang a dry 392 The Hunting Grounds gourd, which served as a water-vessel, on a stalk of Indian corn about a hundred yards distant, and sent a couple of bullet shots through it with my double rifle ; and, whilst they were examining the weapon, I slipped the extra loaded chambers in my revolvers and again fired them off, much to their consternation and wonder : indeed, they looked upon me as very closely allied to "the nameless one," for I heard them congratulating themselves in an undertone that none of their enemies had demon-inspired pistols that were of fatal aim and never required loading. When we again adjourned to the hut I found that breakfast had been served, consisting of several dishes, but I was most woefully disappointed in the cookery, which was wretched in the extreme, I may say execrable; for, although hungry, I could hardly manage to swallow half-a-dozen mouthfuls : the bill of fare consisting of rank goat's-flesh boiled up with millet-seed, black broth, sundry preparations of sour milk, smoked kouskous, and pillaf made of rancid butter, roasted Indian corn, and black-looking maize cakes. At last the repast was over, and, making some excuse about looking after the horses, I bolted to my people, whom I found comfortably established and supplied with all they required. One of them had managed to get hold of a goose, and, as I felt nearly ravenous, I devoted him to " sudden death," converted him into a savoury mess of the Old World. 393 in less than ten minutes, by an old campaigning receipt which, for the benefit of future foragers, I give a la Mrs. Harris's : " First catch your goose, cut off the head, pull off the feathers with the skin, cut the meat from off the bones in small square pieces, and chuck them into a frying pan, with butter, pepper, and salt, if you have any, letting them stew until they assume a rich brown colour, when you may begin to eat." Bread or biscuit fried up with the fat is a considerable adjunct. My hunger satiated, the gang, according to their usual custom, made a huge fire of dry logs on a piece of open ground a short distance in front of the hut ; and, spreading my carpet to windward, I prepared to enjoy the " fragrant weed," and cogitate upon the programme for the morrow, whilst our tents d'abri (of which each of us carried a part in front of his saddle) were being pitched : it being considered pre- ferable to sleep under canvass to remaining in the hut, on account of vermin ; fleas having been found so large and numerous that Kuchuk declared that he was afraid of molesting or annoying any of the race, for, if they made a combined attack and all pulled one way, he felt sure they would be able to drag him bodily out of the hut. There is no time more pleasant in the life of an old forest-ranger than the setting in of the night, after a good day's sport, when the hunters recline round the 394 The Hunting Grounds log-fire, shaded from the evening dew by the canopy of some gigantic forest-tree, and talk over the events of the day or the hopes of the morrow. Then the soothing cheroot and comforting can of grog are in- deed luxuries, and old familiar airs and stirring tales go round cheerily, carrying the heart back to happy bygone scenes of home, and dear old friends, far away in " Merrie England." None of my sporting chums caring to accompany me in this trip to regions marked in the best maps as " unknown tracts," I was without companion, and time hung heavily on my hands when not en route, or on the look-out for game, so I was very glad when the Bey Effendi came to consult me as to the most suitable arrangement for the morrow's battue. He was accompanied by a very intelligent young fellow of his tribe, who, whilst watching the cattle out at pasture, had discovered the lair of an immense bear, whose depredations had been severely felt during the winter months, when, em- boldened by hunger, he had carried off horses picketed close to the " konac." I decided to beat him out, if possible, and, after a long smoking-match and some talk with the Bey as to the best plan of proceeding, he went to warn his people to be in readiness to start at the first appearance of dawn on the morrow, and I crept into my tent, rolled myself up in my blankets, and, being tired, was soon in a sound sleep, from which I was awakened cf the Old World. 395 by some one, as I thought, unceremoniously shaking me by the shoulder ; but the visitor proved to be a half-famished prowling jackal, who was trying to drag away the buffalo-robe which served as an outer cover- ing. I scared him away by shouting, and he vented his indignation by setting up a melancholy howl, which started a most infernal chorus from half-a-dozen packs in the neighbouring woods; but, being well accustomed to such " jungle melody," I turned over, and once more composed myself to sleep. When I awoke the next morning, I found my followers busily employed in rubbing down the horses, and the whole of the male portion of the tribe, with the exception of a few left to guard the village, pre- paring for the field. I gave myself a shake like a spaniel, and washed out my mouth (the ordinary toilet of a hunter of the deep jungle, who generally performs his ablutions in the first stream he comes to), and, after hastily swallowing a cup of coffee and a biscuit, I mounted my horse, and hastened the departure of the party, which consisted of about forty individuals, most of them mounted on rough moun- tain-ponies, and armed with matchlocks, pistols, attaghans, &c. The track lay through a gorge in the mountains, and, when day broke, presented a magnificent scene, as the sun dispelled the fog and mists which seemed to cling to the gigantic masses of rock piled on each 396 The Hunting Grounds other in endless variety of shape and extraordinary confusion ; but I felt too much absorbed in surmising upon the different kinds of large game that were likely to be met with in such a vast extent of virgin forest, to pay very much attention to the picturesque beauties that lay in my path. After about three hours' riding, we came to a large log cattle-shed, used only in the summer months, when the best pasturage is to be found on the lower spurs of the mountains ; and here we had to leave the horses under the charge of a guard, as the track became impracticable for them. The Illori chief described this bear to be a terrible animal standing as high as a pony, but, as I had a double-gun and rifle, and a brace of revolvers, I con- sidered myself more than a match for him. The herdsman now led the way, arid under his guidance we climbed, in Indian file, a steep rocky hill, which caused us to puff and blow, and made our knees tremble before we got to the top ; where, by dint of scrambling on our hands and knees, creeping along the edges of break-neck precipices, and hanging on to perilous ledges, we managed to work our way along the crest until we came to a deep rocky ravine on the other side, which appeared to have been denuded of the dense bush that generally covered the face of the country, by the violence of numerous mountain-torrents, which, when swollen by the rains, of the Old World. 397 or the melting of the snow, dashed down the steep descent with immense force, and swept away all the underwood in their course. Here our guide assured us the lair was, and indeed, it looked a likely place to meet with queer customers, for in all my pere- grinations I never saw wilder country. After an hour's careful investigation, during which I came across several trails of red and roe deer, hogs, wolves, jackals, and foxes, as I was crossing a patch of sand in the dry bed of a stream I perceived the fresh footprints of a bear, which I instantly saw must be a very large one from his long stride and the size of his pugs, my hand hardly covering them. I followed up the trail for some distance, but lost it on some rocky ground, and was making casts in different directions in order to regain it, when some of the Bey's dogs, which had gone on some short distance ahead, gave tongue, and immediately after I heard a sullen roar, followed by four or five dropping shots. I sprung upon a boulder of rock and discovered an enormous, dirty, white-looking bear in full pursuit of four or five Abassians, who were running shrieking up the hill-side about two hundred yards distant. One of them, in his frantic flight, tripped over a stone, and before he could rise the brute was upon him. Although the hinder-quarters of the animal only were presented to me, I threw up my rifle and let drive ; whether it was that my hand was unsteady 398 The Hunting Grounds that morning, or that I feared hitting the man, I know not, but the first bullet fell short ; the second, however, struck fair, and the bear, with a sharp hoarse cry of pain, quitted the fallen man, and again made after the rest. I reloaded as quickly as possible and ran up towards the wounded man, when I again saw Bruin for a moment, and got a couple of snap- shots at him as he bolted into some cover, having been turned by a straggling volley from some of my gang and the Bey's people. I found the youth who had fallen into the bear's clutches severely bitten in the shoulder, besides having his side clawed, and being considerably bruised and shaken, though not dangerously hurt ; so, after bandaging his wounds as well as I could, I collected the people together, and prepared to make another effort to dislodge Bruin from his shelter. One of my people had seen him enter some thick underwood between two large rocks, and I tried to coax the dogs to go in and drive him out; but it was of no use, they only ran yelping round the thicket Two of their number had been killed in the first onset, and some of the others severely mauled, which damped the courage of the rest; so, finding that nothing could be effected with their assistance, I posted all the people in groups as safely as I could at one end of the cover, in case the game might break without showing fight, and followed up the of the Old World. 399 trail, which was very plainly marked with blood, alone. The brushwood was very thick, and much impeded my movements, so I got on but slowly ; but, by dint of creeping on my hands and knees and scrambling, I managed to get some distance into the cover, when I heard a savage growl, followed up by a low grunt- ing noise, evidently not far from me. I peered through the bush, but could see nothing ; so, resting my rifle against the trunk of a tree, I endeavoured to swarm up in order to have a better look round. I had hardly raised myself a couple of feet from the ground when, with a terriffic roar, the brute, which must have got wind of me, charged. Luckily, the bush was so thick in front that he could not get at me very easily, but had to make a turn which gave me time to seize and cock my rifle ; and as his monstrous head, with flashing eyes and open jaws, appeared about a couple of paces from me, I gave him the contents of both barrels, which almost stunned him, for he spun round and round, and I had time to follow it up with my smooth-bore, both bullets taking effect in the head ; but such was the enormous tenacity of life that he managed to tear out of the cover, rolling over and over as he went. After reloading carefully, I followed up and found him sprawling about on the ground, moaning pite- 400 The Hunting Grounds ously. As I got out of the bush he caught sight of me, and made another headlong charge, reeling from side to side as he came ; but I stopped him with another bullet in the head, which made him bite the dust. He rose again, and got up on his hind legs as if to look round, and whilst in this position he looked a fearful object, standing, as he did, with his fore-paws raised about seven feet high and the blood pouring in torrents out of his mouth. I now had a fair shot at his chest, and inflicted a mortal wound, for he rolled over and over, making his teeth meet in the root of a tree with his last dying effort. He proved to be the largest bear I ever met with, standing over four feet high at the shoulder, and, from the number of men it took to lift him, I should think he could not have weighed less than eight hundred pounds. He appeared to be of the same species as the hill-bear of Circassia and the Himalayas, being covered with long whitey-brown hair. He had received eleven wounds, six of which were in the head ; but I found that the round leaden balls from my smooth-bore had flattened on the skull without penetrating, whilst the conical projectile from my rifle splintered the bone. By the time the skin was taken off, the carcass cut up, and the flesh divided among the people, the sun had sunk low in the west, and we had to beat a hasty retreat in order to reach our bivouac (the cattle-shed) before nightfall. of the Old World. 401 Here we found a supply of sheep, fowls, and forage had been brought in during our absence ; so, after we had pitched our tents and made the " inner man " comfortable, our battle with the bear was fought over again as we reclined round an immense fire, until some of us began to nod, when we rolled ourselves up in our blankets and turned in for the night, well satisfied with our day's sport. I was awakened some time before dawn by Kuchuc, who informed me that my baggage-pony and three horses belonging to the Bey's people were missing, and it was suspected that a predatory party of Kabardines, known to be lurking in the neighbour- hood, were the culprits, and had paid us a visit in the night. The loss of a good baggage-animal is, at any time, a serious inconvenience when travelling; but in a wild and desolate country, like that of the eastern coast of the Black Sea, it is almost an irremediable misfortune, so I jumped up immediately to consult with the Bey as to the best measures to take for the recovery of the stolen property. I found him still encased in sheepskins, but puffing furiously at his chibouk, and giving vent to his indignation in a long string of curses, loud and deep, against the marauders, whom he designated as " vile dogs of Kaffirs (un- believers) of unchaste parentage," &c. When I could get in a word, I advised him to 2 D 402 The Hunting Grounds send some of his people to follow up the trail as soon as it became light enough to see the marks left by the horses' feet ; but he, with true Mussulman apathy, declared that a pursuit would be useless, as the plun- derers had got too long a start. Of this I did not feel at all sure, knowing the extreme difficulty of getting over the ground in the dark, in a wooded country ; so I determined to give chase with my own people, accompanied by the herdsman, who had shown us the bear's lair, the day before, and a couple of young men of the tribe, who professed not only to know the country well, but also imagined they could hit upon the haunts of the cattle-lifters. Having buried our superfluous baggage, we set off in light marching order as soon as the day broke; and, falling upon the trail almost immediately, fol- lowed it up in Indian file, as fast as the rocky nature of the ground permitted. It appeared that the culprits were six in number, as there were marks of two having remained in charge of six horses some short distance off; whilst four others prowled about our bivouac in search of plunder. After a fatiguing ride of several hours' duration, over hill and dale, through woods and across rivers, we came to a marshy swamp which bore the appear- ance of having recently been disturbed by horses' hoofs; so on we pushed with renewed vigour, and of the Old World. 403 I refrained from letting drive at seven gigantic cranes, who, regardless of our presence, continued to wade less than two hundred yards distant, which was a sore temptation, as they appeared of a rare kind, and I would have got them all in line with a little judicious stalking. There could be no doubt of our being on the track of the right party, as in several places I perceived the trail of my baggage-pony, which was shod with the broad Turkish shoe on the fore-feet, whereas none of the other animals had any. Towards noon, after clambering up the steep rocky side of a low ridge of hills, I perceived, in the ravine below, a light column of smoke curling up from some broken ground, and, after a careful investigation with my field-glass, I saw several horses with their fore-feet hobbled, grazing by the banks of a small stream, which, I had no doubt, belonged to the marauders. After a brief consultation with my followers, I directed Kuchuc and three others to accompany me in a reconnaissance, whilst the rest of the party took charge of the horses and kept a look-out on the road. As my men were well armed, and I could fully depend upon their pluck, I did not much fear the result of a contest, but was rather afraid lest the pillagers, knowing the country, might slip through our hand with their booty, so I struck off from the tract and made a circuitous route by crossing the ravine 2 D 2 404 The Hunting Grounds some distance below the place where I saw the smoke, and again gaining it on the opposite height, from whence, with the aid of my glass, I could see the objects of our search, reclining round a fire, apparently very jolly on the strength of their success. After having made as careful a survey as the wooded nature of the ground would allow, we ad- vanced towards them as noiselessly as possible, keeping well under cover, until we came to the edge of the open, where the horses were grazing, from whence we got a full view of the party, which appeared to be five in number ; one of whom was washing his mouth in the stream, a second super- intending the cooking, and the others smoking and lolling about on the ground, evidently quite un- suspicious of danger. Knowing the effect of a surprise, I determined, if possible, to accomplish our purpose without bloodshed, and, observing their rude fire-arms resting against a boulder of rock, I resolved to get as near as possible by stalking and then make a simultaneous dash. By dint of creeping on our hands and knees, and taking advantage of the cover of bushes, rocks, and undulations in the ground, we got to within a dozen yards of the three fellows lying down, on whom we made a rush, and, after a momentary struggle, over- powered by laying about us with the butt-end of our rifles. The two others bolted into the jungle on the of the Old World. 405 first alarm, where farther pursuit was useless, and a sixth, who was acting as scout a short distance in the rear, fell into the hands of our other party. Having disarmed and pinioned our prisoners, one of whom had his arm broken in the scuffle, and secured the horses (ten in number, including our own recaptured), we rejoined the rest of the party, and after a hasty meal set out on our return. Our captives, who were a sullen, "ill-favoured, hang-dog looking " set of fellows, proved to belong to a mountain tribe from the other side of Pitzounda, who were returning from an unsuccessful foray in Mingrelia, when they caught sight of our cattle and attempted a raz&e. We arrived in camp late in the afternoon, and great was the old Bey's joy at the recovery of his animals, which he had made up his mind he would never see again. The prisoners were all recognised as being old offenders ; and, according to the law of the tribes, as the mildest punishment, would have been sold as slaves in the interior ; but this I would not allow, as I intended, by making an example, to deter another attempt being made on my cattle : so the gang, after branding each of them indelibly with a heated horse-shoe, on the right shoulder, turned them adrift, minus their arms, horses, and kalpacs (high caps of black sheepskin), warning them that they might expect no mercy if found again anywhere near our camp. 406 The Hunting Grounds The Bey had heard of another bear, and had sent out some of his people to make sure of his where- abouts ; but, as the haunt was said to be nearer the " konac " than where we were, it was determined to return there on the morrow. I selected one of the captured horses for my own use, presented another to the Bey, a third to the herdsman, who showed me the bear's haunt, and then gave the others, with the captured arms, as prizes to the best marksmen in the tribe. of the Old World. 407 CHAPTER XXIII. CIRCASSIA. continued. On the sale of Circassian females, and extenuating circumstances. Their character. An exploring trip premeditated. The start. A Russian fort. Bustard-shooting. Forest scenery. Difficulties en route. Trout-fishing. Mosquitoes. A lovely valley. Wild-cattle hunt. An awkward predicament. A bull and cow slain. Mode of preserving the flesh. More game afoot. The ascent of the first range. Mountain scenery. Mount El-Bruz in the distance. Difficult travelling. A bear started. A long shot. Strange feelings. A frightful chasm, and exciting moment. Journey along the ridge. The descent. Wolves. A Circassian hamlet. Hospitality. A noble race. A Durbar, and the result of our consultation. A MONGST the various localities to which erratic -*- fate has directed my steps, there are few that have so many agreeable souvenirs associated in my recollection as Circassia ; and I wonder that more travellers and sportsmen do not turn their wander- ings towards a country which although pre-eminent throughout the world for magnificence of scenery, is yet a terra incognita. In these days of steam and rail, it were an easy matter for the lover of the pictu- 408 The Hunting Grounds resque, or the sportsman instead of forming one of that horde of sight-seers annually discharged on the Continent to take his lounge one afternoon in Rotten Row, and that day fortnight to find himself sipping coffee in the midst of a circle of mountaineers, in one of the romantic gorges of the Caucasus ; where a man's worth is not estimated by the length of his pocket, but according to the gifts bestowed upon him by Nature, and the manner in which he makes use of them. Yes, my gentle reader, notwithstanding the tales you may have heard of the barbarity of the Circassians, in selling their daughters to the panders of Osmanli harems, and the maidens' passive apathetic resigna- tion to such a fate, I maintain that it is the force of circumstances alone that has brought this revolting custom about. It must be remembered that the gallant tribes of the mountains have been engaged in a bloody war, against fearful odds, for the last eighty years : consequently there has been a continual drain upon the male population the number of men fall- ing annually in battle against the invaders far exceeding the number of male children born. Such having been the case for nearly a century, naturally enough there is a great disproportion between the sexes, and, notwithstanding that polygamy exists, it is a matter of difficulty for all the "gentler sex" to obtain protectors ; and, as " antiquated spinsters" are of a genus unknown in the Caucasus, it is not to be of the Old World. 409 wondered at that the inhabitants are willing to dispose of their extra produce, not required for home con- sumption, to the Turks ; who make good husbands, are of the same faith, and much akin in habits and manners. The custom of admitting foreigners and prisoners of war into the tribes, was doubtlessly adopted in order to make up for the loss of men killed in battle, and not from any great partiality towards strangers. During my sojourn in the country to which time my mind often reverts as being the happiest of my life I found that, among these un- sophisticated people, the possession of large hoards of the "yellow metal" does not constitute the value of the man ; and the most beautiful maidens of the world estimate their lovers' worth by the qualities they dis- play not their possessions. There, a bold spirit, a cool head in the time of danger, a good shot, a skilful horseman, and a strong arm that can defend his own, is looked upon as a rich man and a suitable "partie;" if, withal, he possesses a kind heart, nothing more is required to make a home happy in Circassia. But, Heigh Allah ! I must check myself upon such subjects, and put the curb upon my pen, or it will run upon other reminiscences of the past than those connected with " The Hunting Grounds." I had passed many happy days in the konac of the Bey and amongst other friendly tribes, when one afternoon, as I was returning from a successful deer- 410 The Hunting Grounds stalking expedition, I fell in with a young mountaineer who was en route to his home, close to Mount El-Bruz. After some conversation, I made up my mind to take a trip to that part of the country, under his guidance, and, if possible, to make an ascent of the " Father of Mountains." The same evening I com- municated my intention to my followers, who made their preparations accordingly ; and the next morning, after quite a tender leave-taking from our worthy host and his people, to whom we promised to return, a start was effected. For the first four or five miles after leaving the konac, we had the advantage of a bridle-path, which had been formed many years ago by the Russians, for the purpose of keeping up a communication with one of their outposts, a small fort, or rather redoubt, constructed on an isolated hill which commanded the entrance of a deeply-wooded gorge. The work, in which embrasures and plat- forms for eight pieces of cannon were still visible, had evidently been intended to prevent the aggressive incursions of the ^'mountain-tribes, but it did not appear to have been inhabited for some years, as the barrack was roofless and the flagstaff had rotted away. Our guide told me that this had been the scene of many a hard conflict between the Musco- vite troops and the mountaineers, and his statement was confirmed by the numerous graves, some of which were marked by tombstones bearing Greek of the Old World. 411 or Russian inscriptions, and others by rude wooden crosses. On the slope and round the base of the hill were clearings in the low scrub-jungle, which at one time had evidently been fenced in and cultivated, having perhaps served the garrison as pasture-lands and corn- fields. As I was taking a sketch of the little strong- hold from one of these places, the " Hadjee" informed me that he had seen several very large birds go down in a patch of low jungle close at hand. From his description, I imagined that they were cranes, having seen several of a very large species wading in a swamp en route, and, being desirous of obtaining a specimen, I loaded my gun with a couple of Eley's green long-range cartridges, and accompanied him to the spot where he had marked the birds alight. I had beaten about the place for some time without seeing anything, and was about to give up the pursuit, when, as I was turning round a low copse, a covey of bustard (Otis tarda) suddenly got up from a small undulating plain close to a watercourse, and I had the good fortune to bring down a couple of them, right and left, before they could get fairly upon the wing. One, a hen, fell dead, the shot having taken effect in the back part of the head and neck, but the second, a fine old cock, was only winged, and ran at an immense pace. Luckily " El Moro," my pointer, attracted by "the report of my gun, came up and 412 The Hunting Grounds assisted me, otherwise I should have had no chance of catching him, notwithstanding I was in fair run- ning condition. He proved to be a splendid speci- men, the wings measuring more than four, feet and a half from tip to tip. His weight I imagined to have been but little short of forty pounds, as he was in excellent condition, and by far the largest bird of the species I have hitherto seen, although I have killed many on the plains in India. Having dined, we started again en route, and, on leaving the fort, made our way along tracks with which both Cassim and our guide appeared familiar, but which it would have been hazardous for a stranger to have attempted to follow without the aid of an experienced guide, as the country is so intersected by innumerable watercourses, meandering through dense labyrinths of wood, each of which so closely resembles the other that a traveller once bewildered could hardly ever extricate himself, landmarks of any kind being few and far between. Now and then even our guide appeared puzzled, and had to climb some huge boulder of rock, or lofty tree, in order to make sure of the route, by observing the appearance of the mountains which formed the horizon of this sea of woods. On such occasions as these, had I not been an old forest- ranger accustomed to pilot my way by compass through trackless woods, I might perhaps have shared in the feelings of some of my followers, who, from of the Old World. . 413 time to time, showed symptoms of uneasiness as we wandered through apparently boundless depths of forest. The route was wild in the extreme, often leading across long extents of marshes, unhealthy swamps, and innumerable small rivers and streams, which our horses were generally able to ford, but semetimes had to swim. Now and then we had a good deal of trouble to cross, on account of the force of the current ; and on one occasion we nearly lost one of our number, who got into a quicksand, and was only saved by our throwing him branches, with which he supported himself until we managed to draw him out with a rope. We rode for ten or twelve miles along the base of thickly-wooded hills, until we came to a good-sized stream, running between high steep banks, fringed in places with willow and large trees, somewhat re- sembling the sycamore, which our guide informed us was a branch of the River Kodor, the same we had forded near the embouchure, when accompanying the Turkish army from Suchum Kaleh. Here we deter- mined to bivouac^ and, whilst my people were engaged in culinary operations, I strolled up the river with Ahmed and Kuchuc, on the look out for a chance- shot at deer, as I had seen a few slots during our march. Suddenly turning round a bend in the river, I observed some smoke a short distance ahead, which, after a careful reconnaissance, we approached, 414 The Hunting Grounds and found a party of Abbasians catching fish in ingenious traps made of willows, which are laid in the most likely places in the stream. They had upwards of two dozen very fine fish, chiefly trout, which seemed exactly to resemble the English species, being formed and speckled without any distinguishable difference. I got two glorious fellows, weighing about five pounds each, in exchange for a silver quarter-franc piece, which made a welcome addition to our supper. Our camp this night appeared to be the head-quarters of the mosquito tribes ; for they settled upon us in my- riads, keeping up a perpetual hum, and not allowing a moment's rest. It was positively amusing at times to hear the exclamations and growling of some of the people who were driven almost wild with continued torture. Strange to say, they scarcely molested me, although the faces of some of the others were much swollen by the multiplicity of their stings. With those, sleep was out of the question, so they made a huge fire, round which they got some relief. Sunrise saw us again en route, and after a most delightful ride of about ten miles up the river, through glorious woods of gigantic oak, beech, and walnut, or glades of rich nutritious grasses, we entered a most picturesque valley, which, for beauty of scenery and rich fertility, far exceeded anything that I had hitherto seen. On each side rose densely- wooded hills, here and there broken into gorgeously-coloured of the Old World. 415 cliffs and dark winding ravines, whilst every turn dis- played lovely vistas, stately avenues, groves of blos- soming shrubs, clumps of gigantic forest-trees covered with festoons of the wild vine, and green slopes clothed with delicious verdure, forming a park-like scene far surpassing any of our finest demesnes in Old England. As I looked around, I noticed many objects that brought " home scenes " vividly to mind, for, amongst the vegetation indigenous to southern climes, I no- ticed the wild plum, cherry, white-thorn, daisy, clover, larkspur, primrose, violet, and forget-me-not ; besides which the full round notes of the blackbird and the warbling of the missel-thrush were heard high above the melody of the other sylvan choristers. An exclamation of surprise from Ahmed recalled me from this very agreeable reverie, directing my atten- tion into a widely different channel, for, on passing close to a small piece of dense cover, I distinctly heard the snapping of sticks, followed by the tread of some heavy animal over dry vegetation, and almost immediately a mighty wild-bull and three cows tore across the plain. To loosen my rifle and spring from my saddle was the work of a moment,