of California n Regional y Facility THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES VIEW OF THE AC^RICULTURE, MANUFACTURES, STATISTICS, AND STATE OF SOCIETY, OF GERMANY, AND PARTS OF HOLLAND AND FRANCE. • TAKEN DURING A JOURNEY THROUGH THOSE COUNTRIES, IN 1819. »Y WILLIAM JACOB, Esy., F.R.S. LONDON : JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1820. LONDON: Printed by W. Clowes, North umberlaiidcourt. m PREFACE. HAVING formerly visited Germany, and having continued to feel an interest in every thing- connected with that country during the period that Englishmen were precluded from entering it, I was anxious, on the return of tranquillity, to view again the scenes I had formerly beheld ; and to ascertain, by personal examination, the eifects which the domination of France had produced. I was prevented from gratifying my wish at the early period I intended, when the traces made by a conquering enemy must have been most marked and distinguishable. Six years had elapsed between the period of the expulsion of the enemy and the time of my visit ; it, therefore, became difficult to ascertain what impediments or encouragements to improvement the occupation had occasioned. The condition of most of the places through which I passed, the cultivation of the soil, the state of the roads, the entertainment at tlie hotels, and the manner of conducting the various manufactures, were better than when I visited the country twenty-two years before. The manners of the inhabitants appear to have HISTSrvY iv PREFACE. undergone but little change ; but, as far as they are changed, they are improved. In submitting the following sheets to the Public, I have been anxious to state such facts as I collected, rather than to gene- ralize or to make deductions. It is not my design to create new systems in politics, religion, agriculture, or judicial or fiscal administrations; but to describe those that exist, and leave to others to form theories, or indulge in speculations upon the various modes of improving the condition of human society. Since this work has been printed, I have been most highly gratified by the perusal of Mr. Maltluis's new work on the Principles of Political Economy. Indepeiulent of the pleasure which I derived from contemplating the clear and philosophical refutation of numerous errors with which that subject has been recently clouded, my personal gratification was very great on finding that my views of the causes of the distress which is at present endured by agriculture and commerce, as stated at Frankfort, have been developed and illustrated with the peculiar clearness and felicity which marks every effort of that able writer. In almost every place I visited, I received marks of civility and attention, which I would gladly acknowledge, but they were so numerous, that I could scarcely notice each individual. I^IIEFACE. V and I might omit some, whom it would grieve me to ofleiid, and perhaps mention otiiers, who might be pained at being brought before the Public, even to receive thanks. It has been stated, to the disparagement of some of our English travellers, that when they have connnittcd their observations to the press, they have sometimes noticed individuals, who in the unre- strained freedom of conversation, have thrown out ideas, that they never expected would be produced before even a British Public ; and who have thus suffered inconvenience from those to whom they had shewn civilities. To avoid such a com- plaint, I have scarcely mentioned any names ; and those of mv friends in Germany whom these sheets may reach, will, I hope, deem this a sufficient apology for not making my public acknowledgments to them. Chelshnm Lodge, Snrni/, April, 1820. CONTENTS. Page HOLLAND 1 WESTPHALIA 95 LIPPE-SCHAUENBOURG 107 HANOVER , Ill BRUNSWICK 137 PRUSSIA 151 SAXONY 263 SAXE-WEIMAR, SAXE-GOTHA, AND PRUSSIAN SAXONY 321 HESSE-CASSEL 374 FRANKFORT 393 RHENISH PROVINCES 403 FRANCE '. . . . 429 HOLLAND. VIEW, 8;c. SjC. After embarking at Harwich in a post-office packet in the afternoon with a fair wind, we were saluted at day-break the next morning with the agreeable intelligence that the coast of Holland was in sight. The sand-hills of the island of Goree were rapidly approached, and by eleven o'clock, the packet was safely along-side the quay in the harbour of Helvoetsluys. The examination of passports and baggage was effected with but little delay, and no unnecessary trouble ; and merely afforded time to view the town, whilst carriages were preparing to convey us to the Brill, a distance of six miles. The for- tifications of Helvoetsluys towards the sea are very strong, and the harbour, formed by artificial walls of admirable masonry, entered by means of sluices, gives a very favourable impression of the patience and industry of the nation by whom it was constructed ; a very fine frigate of 36 guns, equipped for sea, was lying in the basin, with her sides close to the quay. The houses and public buildings have a great air of neatness, but of sameness, and the pavement of the streets had all the characteristic cleanliness of a Dutch town. Independently of the consideration of its being the connecting point between A2 4 BRILL. England and Holland, Helvoetsluys excites a strong feeling in an English mind, from the recollection that it was the spot whence our William the Third embarked when he began to enter upon that great operation which has eventually secured to our islands that constitution and those liberties which have raised them to a degree of prosperity, grandeur, and real happiness, unequalled in the history of past ages. Being four of us with our baggage, we took two carriages to the Brill ; they were neither very light nor very elegant, nor were the pair of horses attached to each very enviable nags, but they drew us the six miles within an hour. The road was admira- ble, the whole neatly paved with Dutch clinkers, without a rut, and almost without a wheel-mark, so that had we been disposed to grumble, we had nothing to complain of but the enormous expense of turnpikes, there being no less than four, where toll was paid within the six miles. Brill is a very neatly built town, containing 6,000 inhabitants. The streets are well paved with clinkers. In the centre of each is a canal, on both sides of it rows of trees, and between them and the houses a road sufficiently wide for two carriages to pass. It is well fortified ; the country round can be easily inundated, and the approach towards it over a narrow causeway, has great capabilities of defence against assailants. From its position at one of the mouths of the Meuse, Brill has long been the resi- dence of the best pilots on the shores of Holland ; and from among that class liave been produced many of those naval heroes to whom, in the infancy of its independence, the country was indebted for its maritime triumphs ; Van Tromp and De Witt, with many others of less celebrity, were natives of this place, and their memory is still cherished with the most patriotic pride. After crossing in an excellent ferry-boat this branch MAESLANDSLUYS, 5 of the Meuse, and landing on the island of Rosenberg, an open waggon was in attendance to convey the passengers to the next branch on which the town of Maeslandsluys is situated. The ferry here is equally good with the former ; and the walk of about half a mile from the water-side, pre- sented a fine view of the town in front. One of the churches is peculiarly beautiful, and is crowned with a light and lofty tower of admirable workmanship. The population of Maeslandsluys amounts to about 7,000, most of whom are occupied in the fisheries, principally for white and red herrings. The people of this place complained much of the ill success of the fishery this year. Some of the busses which were by the sides of the wharf had been on the coast of Scotland, from whence after a voyage protracted beyond its usual limits, they had returned with very deficient cargoes ; and some of the masters assured me, that the whole expense of the outfit of the vessels of their town, would very far exceed any sum which the sale of the whole of the fish could produce, however high a price they may obtain for them ; and on that subject, their expectations were far from being sanguine. The road to Delft, burdened with toll- gates, is remarkably good, compounded of the natural soil and sea shells, admirably worked together into a compact and smooth substance, so as to give no unpleasant joltings to the traveller, who posts over it in a waggon without springs, the only vehicle to be found at the post houses in this country. As my fellow-travellers were destined to Harlem, the place of their residence, I parted from them, intending to avail myself of their pressing solicitations to visit them at that city. The whole country from Ilelvoetsluys to Delft, including B Q DELFT. the island of Rosenberg, presents a picture oi' the most abundant agricultural wealth. It is mostly rich pasture land, but mixed with corn stubbles, with clover, potatoes, a few turnips, a considerable quantity of colewort, and much madder. In every part there peeped out, among groups of trees, most substantial and neat farm-houses, and barns, surrounded with vast numbers of cows in excellent condition. These cows nearly resemble the breed of Devonshire, but are rather larger ; not however, as might be expected from the nature of the pasture, nearly equalling the size of our Lincoln- shire or even Sussex cattle. The hay-stacks around these farming establishments were large and numerous, but the hay was of a coarse quality, mingled with many rushes. Fruit trees in the large orchards near the farms, and by the sides of the road, presented an overburdening crop of apples and pears. The most prominent agricultural labour that was in progress, was the last ploughing of the fallows, and sowing them with wheat. The ploughs were drawn by three horses abreast, with the share and the coulter of wood, but were suffi- ciently strong to turn the soil effectually ; for it appeared a rich dark vegetable mould, the friable nature of which indicated, that at least, one of the three horses might have been spared. The wheat was sown in about fourteen turn furrows, well rounded, but with less declivity, and with trenches less deep, than I should have judged necessary, on land so much exposed to be flooded, as this evidently is. The sower carried the seed in his apron instead of a wooden box, and did not appear to regulate each cast of a handful by the motion of his foot, as with us. I watched the operation attentively, and am convinced that the seed must be most irregularly scattered by so clumsy a mode of performing this DELFT. 7 apparently simple operation ; and, that, consequently, there must be an unnecessary degree of profusion in the use of it. The wheat stubbles appeared to have afforded most abundant crops. If they yield moderately under the flail, I should not estimate their produce at less than from five to six quarters on an English acre. Very few of the stubbles had clover growing in them, perhaps where the natural herbage is so luxuriant, there is but little inducement to cultivate the artificial grasses. The oat stubbles appeared to me much inferior to the wheat, and no barley was to be seen. In this district, madder is very extensively cultivated. The root is usually suffered to swell in the ground for three years, at the end of which time it is considered to be in the best state, and usually produces 4,000 pounds to the acre. Many of the cultivators are, however, now compelled by the ne- cessities of the times, and the want of capital, to take up the roots at the end of the second year, and carry them to a very depressed market. The growth of madder tends to exhaust the most fertile soils, and a whole year's fallow is usually found necessary after it, to enable the land to bear wheat. The madder is frequently followed by colewort, and some- times, but more rarely turnip-seed is sown, to that succeeds a corn crop, either wheat or oats ; after which, the land is again laid down to grass, whose growth in a very short period, becomes highly luxuriant. The country between Helvoetsluys and Delft is extremely populous, even if the towns which intervene be not included in the estimate ; and the quantity of corn that is raised, must be very far short of what is required for the supply of the inhabitants, although the loAver orders generally are sub- sisted on potatoes. The principal produce of this tract of B 2 8 DELFT. country is butter and cheese, which used to form the chief sources of its wealth; but of late, the prices at which those articles have been sold, have been so low, that instead of a profit, every sale has been attended with loss to the producer. The vast numbers of windmills around would indicate the grinding- of much more corn than the district affords, or perhaps than the consumption of the inhabitants would require ; but I soon learnt, that the far greater part of them were destined solely for the purpose of draining the land in the manner practised by us in some parts of Lincoln- shire, and in the Isle of Ely. They were, however, uniformly at rest ; and drought, rather than inundation, forms at present the principal subject of complaint. The size and power of these mills is much greater than any that it has been 'w found necessary to erect in England. The dryness of this, and the preceding summer, added to the unusual mildness of the last winter, has produced in many parts of Holland, a visitation of a most unprecedented nature. The field mice have multiplied to such an im- moderate degree as to have absolutely destroyed, at least for a season, some of the most fertile meadows. These animals by millions have burrowed in the ground, and have eaten the roots of the grass. Many patches of considerable extent were pointed out to me on the richest pastures that were totally bare, not even the slightest trace of vegetation being visible; this I was assured was effected by these minute vermin, and I had sufficient conviction of their al)undance by the thousands I saw on the banks of the canals as I passed the dykes. I was informed by persons, on whose veracity I saw reason to rely, that many of the farmers on some of tlie ROTTERDAM. best pasture Land had been compelled to part with their dairies, frora not having food wherewith to support the cattle even in the summer. From Delft the road to Rotterdam is on the right side of the canal, on the top of the dyke, and is bounded by very good country houses, apparently belonging to the wealthy in- habitants of the city, or by gardens where the most luxuriant vegetables were growing in profusion. These gardens and houses were reached by small bridges over the canals; for in some parts canals were on both sides the road. The idea of comfort was naturally suggested, by the neatness and scrupulous cleanliness of the outside of every house, and those few I entered did not destroy that idea on a closer in- spection. Though the land is rich, the vegetation flourishing, the houses well built, and the gardens and orchards abound- ing in every valuable fruit, yet there is a tiresome sameness of aspect, produced by the extent of levels, bounded by no hills, and by the absence of all trees of the umbraa-eous class. There are no oaks, few elms, none of a tolerable size, and neither ash nor beech; willows are, however most abundant, both growing and piled in stacks for repairing the dykes ; these, with a few black, and some Lombardy poplars, were the only trees that broke the dull continuity of the line of vision. The quantity of potatoes o-rowing in the adjacent fields was very considerable ; but as the labourers were digging them, previous to sowing the fields with wheat, I was much struck with the general smallness of their size, which I learnt arose from a prejudice, I believe, pretty general on the continent, against large potatoes, one which prevailed equally in Ireland and England on their first introduction. 10 ROTTERDAM. There are great numbers of mills in every direction, worked by wind. In a comitry where there is no fall of water, and where fuel is too dear to allow of the advantageous use of steam-engines, this is very natural ; and hence the Dutch have attained a degree of excellence as mill-wrights far beyond any other people, so that almost every operation where a great power is necessary is performed by the aid of wind. Very powerful saw-mills were at work by the side of the road, and the mast-makers were executing their labour with engines, whose motion was communicated from the wind. After leaving to the right, the town of Scheidam, surrounded with windmills, and enveloped in the everlasting smoke which its distilleries of gin send forth, I passed through Overschie, a large town, in which are considerable manufactories of iron ware, the soot of whose fabrication, was pretty visible on the countenances of many of the inhabitants. The entrance to Rotterdam from Delft is very impressive ; it is through a long street, or rather a row of lofty houses, with a canal on one side, between which and the houses is an avenue of the highest trees I had yet seen in Holland, with the lamps suspended in the centre. The streets of Rotterdam are generally narrow, the houses large and lofty, the bustle owing to the market-day was considerable ; there were vessels in the canals of most of the streets, near the warehouses ; and except that it is better paved, it much resembles Hamburg, Lubeck, and the other commercial cities of the north of Europe. Few places are better situated for extensive commerce than the ci'ty of Rotterdam. Its front is towards the principal branch of the Meuse, whilst the river Rotte running through it, gives access to vessels up to the doors of the various ROTTERDAM. 1 1 warehouses. The long duration of the war has diverted much of the capital that had escaped the French into other channels than that of commerce ; and since the return of peace, the unsettled state of commercial operations has deterred the rich citizens from directing their attention to that carrying trade, which once afforded to the people of the Seven United Provinces a source of a great portion of the wealth, and the principal means of protecting it. At present, the trade of Rotterdam, is represented to be in a most miserable condition, by those who are best acquainted with it. The access to the interior of Europe by means of its river still remains ; but the rival cities of Hamburg on one side, and Antwerp on the other, now divide with Rotter- dam the scanty trade which the borders of the rivers require. There appeared no activity on the wharfs, few vessels in the river, and very few that had descended from tlie interior of the continent. The exportation of corn to England, when our ports were opened, had, since the peace, been a lucrative trade to some of the commission merchants ; but that is at present suspended, and the prices of all kinds of grain are much lower than the cost to the grower. It is said, that the warehouses are filled with colonial produce, far beyond what the demands of the countries they supply require. The merchants of this city complain, that in the assembly of the States, from the superior influence of the landed proprie- tors of ci-devant Belgium, the interests of manufactures and commerce are made to yield to those of agriculture ; and they instance the repeal of the tax on horses, and the increase of those on doors and windows, as proofs that their complaints are not groundless. They attribute to the same influence, the in- 12 ROTTERDAM. creased tax on patents ; or, as we should call them, licences to carry on trade or manufactures, which all must take out, and which are rated, not as under our late income tax accord- ing to the net profits, but according to the amount of the business, whether profitable or the contrary. The enforcement of the ancient navigation law, which pro- hibited a citizen of Holland from owning a foreign built ship, is a subject of much complaint ; and has been found hitherto of no benefit to their own ship-builders, whose trade was represented to me as in a state of complete stagnation. Above all the other complaints of the Rotterdam merchants, the loudest is against some new duties on coftee, the passing of which, from one dealer to another, is placed by the same law, under some severe regulations resembling our excise system. Notwithstanding these complaints, however, they all unite in ascribing to their monarch the best intentions ; but are most vehement in their expressions of wrath against the minister Altrpeusj who is accused of being the author of the extension of the excise laws to coffee, and who was, lately, first insulted and afterwards expelled from the public gardens of this city, by the whole of the company, who were by no means of the lower class of the people. They all confess that this minister possesses talents, and some allow him integrity ; but, having been formed in the school of Buonaparte, who was him- self ignorant of the interests of commerce, he is accused of having imbibed maxims which, however plausible in theory, are either impracticable, or, if reducible to practice, become highly injurious. Such are the views of the merchants here ; perhaps an acquaintance with llic landholders of Bel- gium might lead to very diU'erent, if not opposite views of the subject. DELFT. 13 Rotterdam, according to the last census, contained 57.000 inhabitants, but they are said to have increased in the seven years which have since elapsed. The predominant religion is the Protestant, of the Calvinistic sect ; but the professors of it are said to be temperate on disputable points, and they are most certainly tolerant to those who differ from them, for the number of churches, appropriated to the other sects, exceeds those of the dominant party, and include almost every denomination of Christians, there are besides many Jews. There are no manufactories in Rotterdam, except those for rolling and rasping tobacco, and afterwards grinding it into snuff. There are several handsome public buildings, but none so pre-eminently excellent as to merit a particular description. The Stadt House of the date of 1620, is a large but heavy mass. The Exchange is a commodious and modern erection, and kept cleaner than such edifices usually are ; and the India House, now used as a bonding warehouse, has a respectable appearance. Some of the houses of individuals on the great Quay have a most superb display of lengthened front and lofty walls. The principal ornament of the city, and the most honourable to it, is a colossal statue of Erasmus in bronze, in the market-place. It is about nine feet high, on a pedestal of six feet, and was erected to his memory in 1662, more than a hundred years after the period in which he flourished. I was induced to revisit Delft in my way to the Hague. It is a city containing 10,000 inhabitants. This, like the other towns, is well paved ; the centre of the street with granite stones, and the sides, either with clinkers or broad flags. It is nearly a mile in length, has some very splendid private houses, and respectable public buildings, but seemed c 14 DELFT. to 'bfe' deserted by its inhabitants, and presented the dullest aspect of any place I ever visited. It was once famous for its manufactories of earthenware, which gave employment to seven thousand persons, but does not occupy at present two hundred. I remarked, every where English plates and dishes, and scarcely ever saw any of the native manufactory. The naval arsenal is a fine establishment; a ship, riffsed and manned by the cadets of the navy, is here appropriated for their professional instruction. The artil- lery, both for the army, and navy are mounted here ; and fitted for service with all the necessary appointments. The brass cannon are cast at the Hague, and those of iron, in the vicinity of Liege, and are brought here by water, to be rendered fit for military purposes. The new church as it is called, is of a very ancient date, and has a tower 300 feet in height. It diverges considerably from the perpendicular, and in appearance, threatens to fall on the heads of the worshippers ; but it has been long in this state, and the inhabitants are satisfied that it is perfectly secure. In this church, among many monuments, some to their naval heroes, Harpertsz, Tromp, and Hein, a beavitiful one to the celebrated naturalist, Leeuwenhoek, is remarkable for its elegant sim- plicity. In the old church, among several memorials to names now scarcely remembered, is to be seen the monument erected to Grotius. It is a pyramid of black marble, in a niche, on which is a sepulchral urn ; on this urn is a medallion of the head of Grotius, resting on a book. A Genius stands on the left hand of the medallion, with a torch reversed, and nearly extinguished. The inscription is simply Hugojii Grotto sacram. Besides these buildings, the late East India Company's DELFT. i5 House, the Stadt House, and the office for regulating the affairs of the canals and dykes in the surrounding district, are deserving of inspection to any stranger that may visit Delft. The road I had hitherto travelled was on the top of the dykes, which confine within the canals the whole water of the country. As far as my eye could determine, these dykes are on the side towards the fields, about thirteen or fourteen feet in height, but varying according to the elevation or depression of the land. The slope from the top to the bottom forms an angle of about forty-five degrees, I thought them about twenty-four feet wide at the top, and if both sides sloped equally, they would be somewhat more than double that width at the bottom. The inner side, however, borders a canal, which is usually from four to six feet in depth. The bottom of the canal must, consequently, be from six to eight feet higher than the level of the surrounding fields. From this situation of the water above the land, it will be readily conceived, that great solicitude must exist to maintain the dykes in good condition ; and that the expense of clearing the fields of the floods, by pumping the water to such a height must be enormous. The dykes are formed, and kept in repair, by bundles of willows interlaced, so as to form a slanting wall, and the interstices are filled with earth well puddled, and thereby rendered compact. The expense of maintaining the dykes, is supported by a tax laid on the sur- rounding lands, which is levied by commissioners, according to long established usage, in such a manner as to create little discontent, and scarcely any suspicion of unfairness. The expenditure in human labour is great, but is much exceeded by the cost of the willows, though they grow near the places where they are wanted, in very extensive plantations. C2 IQ DELFT, The excellence of the roads has been already noticed. They are of two kinds, one paved with the small hard bricks, deno- minated clinkers, and covered with sea sand ; these are fitted so exactly to each other, that scarcely a crevice is to be seen, and they are but little subject to injury. The other kind of road is made of sea-shells and the common soil, well com- pounded together ; it is soft, and yet not much cut by the wheels of carriages. Both these kinds of roads are formed on the dykes, which restrain the canals within their due limits. As an embankment against the water they are necessarily well puddled, so as to become a solid impermeable substance, and rendered more capable of supporting the roads which are car- ried along their tops. In a country where water conveyance is so abundant, it may be easily supposed that few or no heavy carriages will travel on roads burdened with tolls, so high as to amount to nearly as much expense as the post-horses. The roads are thus less subject to excessive wear than in England or Germany ; but yet these tolls are insufficient to keep them in repair, and taxes for that purpose are levied on the houses and lands that abut upon them. The bridges over the canals are admirably constructed, and the various drawbridges, of diver- sified forms, connecting the roads with the numerous gentle- men's seats and large farm-houses, give a lively and cheerful appearance to a country which, however, in spite of all these works of human art, soon appears dull, uniform, and unin- teresting to the eye. It is indeed picturesque, but of so peculiar a character, that one picture might serve for almost the whole district. The canals arc cleaned by means of baskets fixed to the ends of long poles, which are emptied into boats. Much of tliis deposit is converted into manure ; but where the bottom is of a DELFT. 17 more clayey texture, what is brought up is placed in an enclosure by the side of the canal, till it becomes dry by exposure to the air ; it is then mixed with sand, and made into the small bricks or clinkers which have already been often noticed. It may be presumed that, in the alluvial countries of Holland, p no stone quarries are to be found. The Meuse, however, conveys most valuable stone from the vicinity of Liege and Maestricht; one species is an excellent granite or porphyry, and another, well calculated for burning to lime, though the greater part of the lime which is used in this district is made from sea shells. The most diligent inquiry will scarcely enable one to give any thing like an average estimate of the value of land in an extensive district; and a stranger, spending but a few days in each place, must feel diffident, and ought to apprize his readers of that diffidence, before he presumes to generalize on such a subject. The common measure of land in Holland, the morgen, is about one-third more than the English acre ; the guilder may be estimated at two shillings. The highest price that meadow land bears in any part where I inquired, was eight hundred guilders the morgen, or about fifty-four pounds the acre ; such land was considered capable of supporting two cows to the morgen, the value of the keep of them was estimated at thirty guilders, or three pounds each annually. Such land, if let, would produce a rent of thirty- three to thirty-six guilders, the landlord paying the land-tax of twenty-five per cent., and the tenant the taxes collected for draining, embankments, roads, and other local purposes, which amounted to from four to five guilders annually. The value of land in this rich district, besides those local circumstances which every where influence it, must depend much on its capa- 18 DELFT. city of being drained, and on the quantity of draining that it requires. The expenses of this operation must be paid to the proprietors of the ancient mills, who, on their part, are bound to maintain them of sufficient force to drain all the water from the district over which their feudal rights extend. If the proprietor of an estate were to construct a mill for his own peculiar use, it would not exempt him from the payment to the proprietor of the ancient mill. It seems agreed on all hands, that the draining of land is too important to the community to be intrusted to the discretion of individuals ; and hence the mills, though belonging to feudal proprietors, are under the superintendence of the government, which contrives to draw a revenue as well as patronage from them. These mills are solidly constructed with that minute accuracy, which is imprinted on all the wheel-work in Holland. They have moveable roofs, so as to present the vanes to the wind, at every change, in a proper direction. Such is the power of some of these mills, that they will raise, to the height of four feet, seven hundred tons of water in a minute, but on the average they each discharge two hundred and fifty tons in a minute. The price, stated as the maximum of the value of land, will lead to the same conclusion as will be drawn from stating the minimum of pasture land, which is about four hundred and fifty or five hundred guilders, and lets from sixteen to twenty- one ; thus the money invested in land in Holland can scarcely be made to pay an annual income of more than 2| to 3 per cent, interest on the capital. The wages of a day-labourer in agriculture in this district is about fifteen pence in summer, and nine-pence in the winter, and they arc provided with food. This food is generally potatoes, when they are in season, and at other times a kind of porridge, made of buck wheat DELFT. ] 9 and butter-milk, or skimmed milk, and they provide themselves with lodging. The preservation of the game seems much attended to, for at the end of every estate, often of those of small extent, boards are fixed with notices to prevent intruders from sporting over the lands. The hares are said to be abundant ; the accounts of the number of partridges were too various to be depended upon. The madder, the colewort, and the turnips, afford excellent cover for birds ; but I should think the ground too damp, and the extent of corn land too small for the par- tridges to multiply much. I believe there are few, if any, pheasants ; snipes are very abundant, and seemed to be very tame. In the markets I observed very ample supplies of the aquatic wild fowls. The neatness of the treckschuyts, or water-diligences, deter- mined me to proceed in one of them to the Hague. The fore part of these vessels, with accommodation for a considerable number of passengers, is tolerably fitted up ; but the after part, where the price is higher, and which holds only six or eight persons, almost approaches to elegance, and yet the expense is very trifling. As the canals are considerably elevated above the surrounding country, and the dykes that bound them but a few inches higher than the level of the water, as good a view of the prospects can be gained whilst travelling in these vessels, as when on the road by their side. Beautiful houses of opulent proprietors, large farming establishments, with every door and window painted in lively colours, gardens with pro- fusion of fruits and vegetables, and a back ground of extensive and luxuriant meadows, studded with grazing cattle, stretching to an unbroken horizon, tire the eye, and dispose one to 2Q DELFT. indulge in that indolence which the uniform movement of the treckschuyt contributes not a little to induce. These boats are drawn by a single horse, which travels at the rate of three miles an hour, and carries on his back what we should perhaps call the postilion, but who here has the name of the huntsman (jauger). The number of these boats is very con- siderable, and the place and time of their departure, as well as the hour of their arrival at their destinations, is regulated with a precision that resembles mechanism more than animal movement. The rules for slacking the tow-rope, on passing each other, are prescribed and adhered to with scrupulous accuracy, so that acci- dents or interruptions are almost equally unknown. These canals were more crowded with boats conveying goods than passengers, and the whole was both a novel and lively exhibition of a moving scene. Some boats of a small size were moved by a single man, who, instead of a tow-rope, had a long pole fas- tened to the bow of it, by which he drew it along. As there is no motion in these canals, when an impulse is given to the boat, its continued movement is easily effected, and perhaps, not having the slack of the rope to overcome, less exertion may eff'ect the purpose with a pole than with a rope. For some hours the same rich but monotonous display of rural life is to be seen in passing from Delft to the Hague ; but when approaching within an hour or two of the latter city, the trees begin to appear, and prepare the traveller for a change of scenery, by exhibiting a new character on the face of the country. The number of lofty trees that surround tiie Hague, as they arc gradually approached, afford a most agreeable contrast to the naked country that is left behind, though the equality of the surface from which these trees arise, is such as HAGUE. 2 1 to produce none of tliose sensations vvliich a rugged display of forest scenery never fails to excite in the ardent admirer of picturesque nature. The near approach to the Hague is truly magnificent, as soon as the palaces (for they merit that name more properly than houses) appear more prominent than the trees which envelope them, nor does the entrance to the city lessen the impression of its grandeur. The public squares, with um- brageous trees, the noble streets with canals in their centre, the grand promenades, and the beautiful public buildings, are all objects which make a powerful impression on the senses, and that impression is not affected by the dead level on which the whole is placed, which though wearisome in a rural pro- spect, is what we expect to find in a large city. No place of the same extent can be better fitted for the residence of a court, especially for an assembly of the representatives of all the different European nations ; and it is not wonderful that, at a period when it must in beauty have far exceeded every other place in Europe, it should have been the favourite resort of those great statesmen, who assembled in it to regulate the destinies of our quarter of the globe. Few of the houses, or rather palaces, are of modern erection, the far greater part are more than one hundred and thirty years old, and perhaps this place was so far advanced, in all that can adorn a capital, at that period, as not to need those improvements which the other European cities have received. To be fully im- pressed with the grandeiu* and magnificence ot the Hague, and to appreciate it correctly, it must be compared with what London, Paris, Vienna, Berlin, and Dresden were from the years 1680 to 1720. The Hague had then reached its acme, and though it has scarcely improved, it has not retrograded ; D 22 HAGUE. whereas those other cities have gone on gradually from one improvement to another ; and yet as a whole, perhaps none of them far excel it in the splendid magnificence of their exterior. With all the grandeur, however, there is a sombre dullness visible every where, the wide streets scarcely witnessed the passing of any carriages, nor the grand walks the assem- blages of either the busy or the indolent ; the shops seemed without customers, and the theatre with a very scanty number of spectators. The removal of the king to this place may have some effect, and the Assembly of the States collecting here may give some animation to it ; but the attendants of royalty about the king of the Netherlands, are maintained with an economy which forbids much exhibition of splendour, and the members of the Assembly are either too poor or too par- simonious to add greatly either to the gaiety or to the wealth of a place where their residence is but temporary. The Hague contains about 40,000 inhabitants. It was long considered as a village, because it had no corporation; but when it fell under the dominion of France, Buonaparte thought fit to flatter the people, by conferring on their residence the empty title of a city of his empire. The most remarkable of the palaces, the house in the wood, is a fine building, and its facade would have a grand effect, if the number of trees which approach it too nearly, did not prevent the whole from being seen at once from any moderate distance. The park has some very fine avenues of trees of a large size, but is too much in a style somewhat resembling Hampton Court, and displeasing to modern taste. Two of the churches, St. James's, and the new church, are very striking objects. The Stadt House is large, and contains a considerable collection of pictures, principally from Dutch masters, and on local subjects, particularly the views in HAGUE. 23 the vicinity of this place, painted in the sixteenth and seven- teenth centuries, and with these arc combined the representa- tions of the costume of the various classes of inhabitants of the same period. The road to Scheveling, a village on the sea-coast, has a most magnificent appearance ; but the view possesses too much uniformity to be dwelt on long with any delight. It is adorned by four rows of majestic oaks, is about sixty-five feet in breadth, and the sides display numerous country-houses, some of moderate, others of large, dimensions, but all wit^ a neat trimness that is peculiarly national. ^; The palace of Ryswick, in the village of that name, is more remarkable for its historical connexion with the peace con- cluded there in 1697, and for the lofty trees that surround it, than for any distinguished beauty, either of the exterior or interior decorations. The stage coach or diligence which conveys passengers from the Hague to Harlem, like the vehicle of the same name in France, carries six inside passengers, but on three seats, each of which is numbered, and those who take their places in it are furnished with a ticket, signifying the seat they are to occupy. Besides the inside passengers, two others are ac- commodated in what is called the cabriole, a kind of open part in the front, with curtains to draw, in case inclement weather should render it necessary. These carriages, though very clumsy in appearance, are remarkably well hung ; are very well stuffed, both in the seat and the sides ; and though not quite so easy as the motion of the treckschu}t, are upon these roads, which are as smooth as a parlour-floor, the least fatiguing conveyance I ever was in. The Dutch certainly excel other nations in their mill and wheel work, and I was much impressed with the superiority T) 2 24 HAGUE. by tlie examination of this vehicle. The fellies and the spokes are thicker than those of any carriages in England, but the joinings of the different parts of the fellies were so admirably made, that they were scarcely perceptible. The spokes were fitted to the fellies, and to the nave in the same nice manner ; and to the eye of an observer, who had never before seen a wheel, it would have appeared, that the whole must have been carved out of a solid block of wood. The iron work was equally neat ; the joinings of the circle could not be perceived, nor even the nails by which it was fastened, and altogether it was the completest piece of workmanship I had ever examined. The driver sat on a little dicky in front of, and somewhat lower than, the cabriole, and managed his four horses with considerable dexterity. I estimated that the carriage, the passengers, and the luggage stowed on the top, under the dicky and cabriole, and in a basket behind, which reached from the perch to the top of the coach, could not be less than three tons, and with this weight the horses rattled along at the rate of six miles an hour. The Dutch are as punctual, as they are industrious and parsimonious. The diligences and treckschuj'ts start at the time appointed, during the striking of the clock. If you are told that the hour is seven, you may be sure to be away before the fourth of the seven strokes have sounded. The precision at which the hour of arrival is fixed, is such that you may depend upon it within a very few minutes ; and the same reliance may be placed on the period of finishing the journey, whether it be made by water or by land. The horses in Holland are good, look sleek as if well fed, and the property of substantial masters ; they have a kind of amble in their gait, are rather gay and prancing in their HAGUE. 25 carriage, and it is not very usual to see a post-horse with its knees deranged. The waggons, like the diligences, are well adapted to the country, but from the convenience of water-carriage, they are few in number. They are light veliicles, drawn by one, some- times by two horses, and the driver is much at his ease in a little seat before. The perch is not of one continued piece, but under the body of the waggon is divided, and connected by a swivel, operating something like a perpendicular hinge ; a dif- ferent direction may thus be given to the fore and hind wheels. The end of the perch terminates forward in the shape of a horn, the top of which is within reach of the foot of the driver, and the requisite direction is given to the vehicle by the application of the driver's foot to this horn. These waggons are very light, and their loading is inconsiderable; I should think none of them more than twenty-five hundred weight. The first part of the road from the Hague is bordered by trees, which absolutely impede the prospect on both sides, for nothing is to be seen besides them, and at frequent intervals^ gentlemen's seats peeping out between the woods, and exhibit- ing those specimens of neatness and cleanliness here so universal. As the distance from the city increased, the country became more open, and fine pasture land appeared in the intervals between the woods and the houses. The trees are neither lofty nor umbrageous, mostly limes or elms, no oaks, and all closely clipped into a most unnatural uniformity. A few miles from the Hague where the road to Leyden separates from that to Harlem, the canals and dykes ceased to appear, and the sandy hills with intervals of pasture or arable land between them, bordered the road on both sides. The valley between these sand hills appeared to be admirably 26 HARLEM. calculated for the turnip culture. The natives, however, have no idea of the excellence of that root, or of the mode of cultivating it ; the few fields that presented themselves with that crop, were full of weeds ; the turnips not hoed, the bulbs very small, and so thickly planted, that it is impossible they should ever attain even a moderate size. The cultivation of potatoes is pursued with more attention, and allowing for the predilection which they entertain in favour of those of a small size, with tolerable success. The potatoe crop is deemed a good preparation for wheat, and in a district where the numerous herds of cows yield such abundant manure, it may be the most beneficial mode of preparing the soil to receive it. With the slight elevation of the land and the change of soil, the woods assumed a different character. The trees were either of beech, fir, poplar, or ash ; and the under- wood consisted of maple, ash, hornbeam, beech, birch, and a very slight portion of oak bushes ; some few sheep made their appearance, long woolled, without horns, and the worst framed animals I ever saw of that species. After passing through the small town of Liss, the road continued with the sand-hills in perfect barrenness on one side, and the beautiful lake of Harlem on the other, till we approached that city ; whose entrance is decorated with country-seats of considerable magnificence, and beautiful flower-gardens, which supply bulbs to the horticulturists of their own country, as well as furnish the most beautiful specimens of flowers to the rest of Europe. Harlem, or as the Dutch spell it, Haerlem, is a city of 16,000 souls, whose inhabitants have been long celebrated for their in- dustry and ingenuity, and have constantly conducted considerable flATlt^M. 27 manufactories of various kinds. The water was considered, before the improvement in bleaching by gas was introduced, to possess some peculiar properties for whitening linen. The fine linens of Silesia used to be sent, as they came from the loom, to this place for bleaching, and those of Friezeland were often pre- pared in the same manner ; so that through Europe, both were more generally denominated Holland, than called by the name of the country in which the most material opera- tions were executed. Many minuter articles which at first view appear inconsiderable, but when all furnished from one spot are of vast importance to it, were the productions of Harlem ; such as tapes, bobbins, common thread lace, lace making threads, and various others, which have been either supplanted by the manufacturers of Manchester or other parts of England, or have fallen into disuse from a change of fashions. It is, however, to the ingenuity of the natives of Harlem, that the public of Europe are indebted for the invention of many of those more minute articles which contribute to the com- fort of society. During the time of its manufacturing pros- perity, this place contained a population of 40,000 inhabi- tants, who, by regular and gradual decay, have declined to the present number. There are still some bleacheries, though not so considerable as formerly, and the most important manufac- tory is that of printed calicoes. These are well executed, equalling any work produced in Lancashire or Scotland, and not very much inferior to most of what is executed in the vicinity of London or in Switzerland. Besides this, there are many looms employed in weaving stuffs of silk and cotton, of silk and linen, and silk and wool, and several of silk alone ; there are also manufactories of ribands and fine thread, and 23 HARLEM. thread lace, and some woollen cloths are made of consideraljle fineness. Harlem contends for the honour of having invented the art of printing, and the colossal statue of Koster, who is here asserted to have been the first printer, claims for him the honour which the Germans give to Giittenberg and Faust. The claim is defended by a story which has some appear- ance of probability, and is confirmed by a printed book, preserved in the Stadt House of the city, said to have been executed by Koster in 1440, with the title " Spiegel der hehoudenkse,'' the Mirror of Salvation. The story is that, Koster walking in the wood of Harlem, having carved some letters on the bark of a tree, and afterwards applied a piece of paper to them, was led by the impression made on the paper, to reflect on the possibility of connecting first syllables and then words, till at length with wooden types, he pro- duced the work before mentioned. They add, that one of Koster's workmen having the charge of his implements, made his escape with them whilst, on a Christmas eve, he was attending mass with his wife. The fugitive repaired to Mentz, and there is supposed to have communicated the invention to Giittenberg, who, in connection with Faust and Scheffer, produced their first work with metal types. The Germans and the Dutch, as jealous of the origination of printing, as the Grecian cities could be of the birth-place of Homer, have mustered much antiquarian research in the controversy ; and perhaps, left it as much involved in obscurity as when they commenced the discussion. It is but fair, however, to the German claimants, to state that their able advocate, Schbflin, in answer to Meerman's Origine de la Ti/pograpliie, denies HARLEM. 29 the theft, and vigorously maintains the claims of his country. If personal reputation is to be used in balancing contradictory evidence, the weight must fall in favour of Koster, who is represented as a man of great simplicity of character, and purity of conduct, whilst his competitor Faust is depicted in very different colours— Non nostrum tantas componere lites. The business of printing, wherever first invented, has, however, been long carried on in this city, by a family, who combine with it the important operation of letter founding. Mr. Enschede, a member of that family, who had been my companion from Harwich to Delft, is in possession of some very curious specimens of early typography, which serve to illustrate the history of the art, and confirm his opinion in favour of his townsman. This letter-foundry has been long celebrated for the excellence of its types, especially for Greek and Hebrew printing. The former were those used and approved by the celebrated Wetstein ; and they supply almost all the Jewish printers of Europe with the latter. Their types for printing music are said to equal, if they do not surpass all others, both in the beauty of the figures, and the durability of the metal of which they are composed. The attention to the cultivation of flower-roots and seeds, independent of the elegance of the pursuit, has by the profits it has brought become an object of some importance. It is the source of prosperity to many respectable families, and in some mea- sure lays all Europe under obligations, which are repaid by profit to the cultivators. The number of flower-gardeners is not above twelve or thirteen, but the operations of each are very extensive. It is said, that there are more than twenty acres E 30 HARLEM. of land devoted solely to the cultivation of hyacinths, and a large portion to tulips, and other flowers. These flowers are principally sold when in full bloom in Amsterdam, where there is a weekly market on Sunday afternoon, and the whole of Monday ; the trade, however, has vastly declined of late years, having sunk in weekly returns from 15,000 to 3,000 florins. The tulip mania which afflicted Holland in the years 1636 and 1637, and which involved so many families in ruin, has long ceased ; but in 1730, a hyacinth mania, inferior to it indeed, but equally ridiculous, prevailed ; and speculations were made in those flowers to a considerable extent, so that some single bulbs were sold as high as sixty or seventy pounds. There can be no doubt but the taste for cultivating flower- gardens, which has extended itself over almost the whole of Europe, may be traced to this country, which furnished bulbs and seeds till the intervention of successive wars and their interruptions to conununication, induced the other nations to propagate those flowers at home, whose growth w^as most congenial to their soil and climate. The school of painting in Harlem produced some of the best masters in that delightful art. The most celebrated of them, among a number of inferior but not ungifted ones, are Van Wyk, Philip Wouverman and his two brothers John and Peter, Van Ostade, Brouwer, Hostein, Francis Post, Nicholas Van Berghcm, Vander Heist, the brothers Ruisdaal, Van Kampen, Cats, and Milate. The works of these men are scattered through Europe, and are considered the best speci- mens of that peculiar school, which unites accuracy of outline with the most indefatigable industry in copying the pre- cise and exact lineaments of nature. Though no painters of celebrity now remain, nor any great collection of the works HARLEM. 31 of natives, yet the same industrious spirit which prompted it8 artists, is kept alive ; but directed more to objects ot natural history and of national economics. These have been promoted by the foundation of Teyler, and by the Academy of Sciences. Teyler endowed an institution, which has assembled a collection of natural history, and furnished it with whatever is rare and interesting in the animal, vegetable, and mineral kingdoms. These are explained in weekly lectures ; when experiments are exhibited in physics, and comparative anatomy. The museum has a valuable library, a chemical laboratory, and an observatory, which are accessible to all who wish to avail themselves of their valuable assistance^' One of the most remarkable public edifices in Harlem, is the great church, formerly the cathedral, a most enormous mass of building ; but the butchers' stalls in the market bein coals do in London. ' At leaving Utrecht for Arnhem, the country for the first five or six miles, resembles the environs of the other cities, thick hedges, with good gentlemen's houses interspersed, face the road ; and the land that was visible between the trees, was good natural meadow. There was an evident, but very gentle ascent, and the change in the description and size of the trees, and the more rapid course of the streams, in- dicated an approach to a more undulating district. At about five or six miles, the meadows were interspersed with arable fields, the proportion of which increased at every removal from Utrecht. The soil is sandy, but of a good colour, easy to plough, and highly productive as far as the stubbles and the crops on the ground could prove it. It was my fortune to fall in with a very intelligent man, a con- siderable land-owner and farmer, who was very communicative, and appeared to be remarkably accurate. He accompanied me to the laro-e village, or rather town of Aranagoen, where he resided, and where he invited me to see his premises. I learnt from him, that the usual course of cropping on the farms between the spot where the rich meadows ceased, and his estate, was the following. The land when cleaned was manured, and sowed with buck wheat ; after that, a second dressing of dung is administered, and after a single ploughing, rye is sowed. The rye is usually harvested in July, when turnips are sowed after a sing4e ploughing. They have thus regularly three crops in every two years. The produce of the buck wheat on an average of years, is a last, or 10| quarters to four malts, or two morgens of land ; or GUELDERLAND. 49 from twenty to twenty-two of our bushels to the acre. The rye is estimated to produce about two more of our bushels to the acre than the buck wheat ; but this year, as is the case in England, rye falls considerably below an average crop. The turnips are the worst, because the most neglected of the three crops. The seed instead of being of one kind, was red round, white round, tankard, and some other species, with which I was not acquainted, all mingled together. The plants were healthy, and quite as thick as was necessary ; but though the bulbs were formed, they had not been hoed, nor had even the harrows been drawn through to thin them. It is therefore impossible they should become a tolerable crop. This was the only deficiency I noticed, either on my com- panion's land, or in the track which we had spent two hours together in passing over. As far as I could judge, the portion of manure administered before the buck wheat and rye, was small. I could not hit on any measure with which my com- panion was acquainted, that enabled me to reduce his quan- tities to cubic yards, or our common cart-loads ; but I was led to guess that not more than seven or eight of our Surry and Kent cart-loads were applied to the acre. My informant, in a language between Dutch and German, but very intelligible to me, remarked, speaking of manure " xitemg und ofters ist Lesser ah Jiel mid selten T a little frequently is better than much and seldom. I observed the farm-yards, and the hogsties, were well bedded with a fine sand, but that very little straw was applied to be converted into manure. There can be no doubt but such sand will imbibe and retain the faeces of the animals ; but it may be doubted, if so much ammonia is administered to the land by this mode, as by the putrefac- tive fermentation which is produced by the abundance of 50 GUELDERLAND. straw, that is trodden in with the exuviae in our English farm- yards. The ploughs used in this district are light, and well adapted to the soil. They have two wheels, with the main beam resting on a moveable gallows, that rises between them ; by elevating or depressing of which, the depth to which the plough turns up the soil is regulated. By a chain similar to the one adopted in the Kentish turn-wrest plough ; the point of draft is about the centre of the beam, and thus the share is kept properly down to its required depth. The coulter is of the usual shape. The mould board, without that due degree of convexity which is best calculated for turning the soil com- pletely upside down, is wholly plated with iron. The share is sharp at the extremity, and gradually spreads as it recedes from the point, to the breadth of eight or nine inches, the broader part being the width of the furrow, and thus effectually cutting every improper plant by the roots. The ploughing is remarkably well executed, the furrows strait, the depth uniform, their bottoms clean, and the distance from one to the other, seven or eight inches only. On one or two farms, which I thought demonstrated tli^ superior knowledge, or larger capital of the occupier, the dung was spread, and over it were copiously laid the waste leaves and roots of the tobacco plants. A man preceded the plough, and carefully turned this dressing into the furrow, which the plough that followed very completely covered with the soil. Beyond Arangoen, the land is of inferior quality, and a greater portion of it has been destined to the cultivation of tobacco. These fields are divided into very small patches of not much more than a quarter of a rood each. They are slightly, fenced GUELDERLAND. '5 1 by a few dry sticks, which are merely placed to break the force of the wind when it is stormy, and prevent the leaves of the plants, when they are grown to a large size, from being inju- riously agitated. I was pleased to see that around all these small fences, scarlet runners were plentifully trained ; the pods were drying on them to be saved for seed, which has become an article, that furnishes a considerable trade in the tobacco districts. When I passed, some of the tobacco was gathered, but the greater part remained on the ground ; when gathered, it is hung on sticks in the houses and barns, and where the cultiva- tion is more extensive, large buildings are erected with lifting weather boards for the purpose of drying it. From Aranagoen to Rhenen, a small town, or rather city, for it is fortified, the land is poorer, some of it in appearance no better than Bagshot-heath. It is, however, in a very im- proving state. Vast tracks of it have been planted with Scotch firs and Weymouth pines. I could not learn how long they had been planted ; but from their size, I judged it could not exceed seven or eight years. They are some miles in extent, and belonging to various proprietors ; as is evident by the number of painted boards, warning strangers not to sport over them. I was informed, that hares and partridges were very abundant, as well as snipes and woodcocks in their season ; and that all were sedulously watched, and intruders prosecuted. Many hundred acres have been sowed with acorns, without any hope of their ever reaching the size of timber ; but merely for the sake of the underwood. The beech as well as the birch trees appear healthy, and many of them large. I have seldom passed a district in any country, in which such great and recent steps toward improvement have been made. 52 GUELDERLAND. Many new houses were building, some of a large size. Thorn hedges to a great extent have been recently planted ; a new church and school-house were erecting. These are tolerably clear proofs of increasing population ; and of the existence of a portion of unengaged capital. The farmers, however, com- plain most bitterly of the low prices at which they are com- pelled to sell their produce ; and predict, that all the money that has been expended by them or their landlords in improve- ments, will be ultimately lost. The portion of this land which is already brought under the plough, is cultivated in the three-course system of buck-wheat, rye, and turnips, as noticed before ; the land has been sold for about fifteen pounds the English acre, and when improved by the proprietor and let to a tenant, does not pay more than 2| per cent, interest for the capital invested ; and I was assured, that unless the prices rose, no rent could be paid for it long, but that the cultivators must be ruined. I do not here merely repeat the complaints of the farmers, but those which were confirmed to me by a very intelligent clergyman, with whom I had much conversation. There are some sheep on these lands. Most of the boors, as the farmers are called, keep a few ; but no flock that I saw exceeded sixty or seventy. They are of the long-woolled breed, have white faces, long heads, and no horns. The only peculiarity is, that they are shorn twice in each year. After the second shearing which is in August or September, they are kept in the barns at night, and even by day, if the weather be at all inclined to cold. Few presents would be of more advan- tage to this district, than the introduction and extensive pro- pagation of our breed of South-down sheep. The horses arc a strong compact race, of lower stature than GUELDERLAND. 55 those used near the coast, which are of the Flanders breed, and not unlike what we call the Suffolk punches. The post- horses are baited with rye bread. The loaves are about sixteen or eighteen inches long, and about eight inches in depth and breadth. By means of a hay knife fixed on a block, they are cut into appropriate slices, and each of the horses is served with about two pounds at a time. At Rhenen, the river Rhine opened to the view, and the road ran by its side on a natural terrace, sometimes close to it, and sometimes leaving a space of near a mile of the most rich and verdant meadows, covered with cattle. On the left the land was elevated above the road. The woods imme- diately contiguous, were thick and verdant; behind them the hills rose, though not to a considerable height. Their aspect is rendered black and dreary by the heath and fern that covers them, not varied by a single tree or shrub. At Rhenen, the excellent paved road ceased, and the rest of the way to Arnhem was generally a very deep and heavy sand, which demanded no small exertion from the horses. I passed through Wageningen close to the Rhine, a place not worth noticing, though from having gates, slight fortifi- cations, and an incorporated magistracy, it is denominated a city. The soil around it is excellent, the tobacco was most luxuriant, the buck wheat good, and the turnips sufficiently planted ; but from the want of the hoe, will produce but little. I learnt that the crops, both of buck wheat and rye, were estimated to produce one fourth more, than upon the land about Aranogen. From Wageningen, the country vastly improved. The hills which skirted the meadows, gradually receded from the Rhine ; and as they receded, increased in elevation, so as to display a H ^4 ARNHEM. more extended valley, through which the river flowed, like the Thames at Richmond, in that pleasing medium between rapidity and sluggishness, which exactly suited the scenery. The country beyond the valley rose in hills of" increasing height ; one of which at the distance of six or seven miles, was crowned with the white houses and battlements of the city of Nimeguen, overlooking the fertile regions below and around it. The country between Marlow and Maidenhead more nearly re- sembled the spot I surveyed, than any part of England that occurs to my recollection. The approach to Arnhem is very impressive. Through a long avenue of three miles, formed by the largest beeches I ever saw, except some of those planted by Evelyn at his seat in Surry, the highest tower of the city terminates the vista ; whilst the city itself is still hid by a small intervening hill, and the scenery of the Rhine is exhibited on the right hand with pleasing, rather than powerful etfect. At a pass on the road, where a small stream issues from a thick wood, that extends to the hills on the left, the first of the fortifications, consisting of some very strong lines, b?gin. A double row of these lines, with flanking batteries and ditches that can be easily filled, and with draw-bridges, protect the way over some meadows, the only one by which the city can be approached on this side. Besides the works that guard the approaches, Arnhem is strongly fortified on every side, and the fortifications originally constructed by Coehorn, are kept in a state of good repair. It is a place of considerable importance from its being the capital of the department of Guelderland, as it had formerly been of the province of the same name, before the French divisions ot the country were made. It derives also some importance ARNHEM. g^ from commanding the course of the Rhine near the spot where that river divides into two branches, one of which retaining its original name runs to Utrecht, wliilst the other assuming the' name of the Yssel, passes by Deventer to the Zuyder sea. The present number of inhabitants is between nine and ten thou- sand, who depend principally on the lands that surround it for their support. There are some fabrics of coarse woollens, some mills for the manufactories of paper, and of oil ; and during the continental system of Buonaparte, considerable establishments were formed for making sugar from beet-root and other plants, which are now necessarily abandoned. The town is tolerably built, but as usual in strongly fortified places, most of the streets are narrow. There are several churches, two of which are particularly large ; one of these was taken from the Protestants by Buonaparte, and given to the Catholics, who, though a large proportion of the inhabitants, had be- fore only some obscure edifices, not well calculated for the display of their magnificent religious ceremonies. A large palace, formerly inhabited by the Stadtholder, is now occupied by the governor of the province ; it is distinguished by no peculiar beauty, and only remarkable for its extent, and the public uses to which it is applied. The environs of Arnhem, and the walks among them are very beautiful ; on the north side of the city, by an ascent almost imperceptible an elevation is attained which overlooks the rich and delicious plain, through which various rivulets running to the Rhine, supply water to more than fifty villages ; the spires of whose churches are seen peeping up above the trees, amongst which the sacred edifices are hid. The gentle- men's houses are numerous, and generally surrounded with farms, principally cultivated by the proprietors, in portions H 2 56 ARNHEM. of from three hundred to seven hundred of our acres. These houses have usually very whimsical names conferred on them by the founders ; and the ornamental gardening, including lakes, waterfalls, and Cliinese pagodas, though kept with most accurate neatness, are in a grotesque rather than a natural taste. At one of these establishments called La Source, where some machinery for refining the beet-root sugar was erected, there is a house with fifty cow-stalls ; which during the existence of the manufactory was filled with cattle, that were solely fed with the residuum of the roots, from which the juice for making the sugar had been expressed. The milch cows kept on this sub- stance were maintained by it in good condition, and the butter they afforded was considered to be of an excellent quality ; so that considerable profit would have been derived from the offal of the beet, if the return of peace had not rendered the whole process unproductive and unnecessary. There are the remains in this vicinity, of some very extensive and very ancient buildings, which the traditions of the country ascribe to the Huns ; whilst some others, whose foundations are known to have been laid in the eleventh century, have been modernized and adapted for the residence of the re- spectable families that now occupy them. The undulating face of the country, the numerous rivulets, and the exten- sive woods, give the means of indulging a taste for orna- mental landscape, by the construction of lakes, waterfalls, and fountains, where they are well relieved by the woody scenery near them. The signs of recent if not of present pro- sperity, were very distinctly to be seen in every walk around this city ; and the number of houses of public entertainment, which are decorated with the marks of improvement, are evidences of a degree of ease in tjie circumstances of many ARNHEM. 57 of* the inhabitants at least. The failure in many articles of production, unnaturally forced into cultivation by the state of Europe, and the depression of the prices of the more natural ones, have created a reverse which is much complained of; and which though doubtless considerably felt, has not yet made the diminution of prosperity so apparent as to be noticed by a casual visitor. The nature and extent of most of the properties is such, as to endure much suffering before any visible marks of its existence can be traced by a mere observer. One of the richest tracts of country in the vicinity of Arnhem, has been often exposed to tremendous inundations. These are frequently felt at the breaking up of a long frost ; but in no instance so calamitously as in the winter 1808-9. A violent tempest from the north-west had raised the waters of the Zuyder sea, some feet above the highest mark of the spring-tides, and the waves beat with unusual violence against the dykes, constructed to break their fury. The thaw on the Upper Rhine had increased the quantity, and the force of its waters, which brought down masses of ice fourteen feet in height, and more than half a mile in length ; to which the embankments, softened by the thaw, and somewhat injured, presented an insufficient barrier. A breach made in one part soon extended itself, and the torrent quickly covered the country, bearing before it by its force, the villages, the inhabitants, and the cattle. The height of the Zuyder sea prevented the water from finding an outlet ; and it consequently remained on the ground for a long period, in spite of the exertions of the surviving inhabitants. By this event, more than seventy houses were totally destroyed, a far greater number irretrievably damaged, and of nine hundred 58 DOESBURG. families, more than five hundred were rendered utterly desti- tute ; more than four hundred dead bodies were left on the borders of the current, and at the city of Arnhem, five hundred persons, mostly women and children, with many hundred head of cattle, were rescued from a watery grave, by the hazardous heroism of the inhabitants, who ventured in boats to their rescue. At leaving Arnhem, the country continued undulating, with pleasing rivulets running in the bottoms of the valleys, that intersected the rising grounds ; the tops of which were indeed sometimes covered with black heath, but more frequently graced with plantations of firs of very recent formation. The course of husbandry was buck wheat, rye, and turnips. I remarked the mode of harvesting the buck wheat, was by binding it in sheaves with bands of rye straw, and setting them on end to dry, which is certainly preferable to our slovenly mode of suffering it to lie on the swathes, till it becomes fit to be carried to the barn or the stack. Here, as in every part of Holland, the hay-stacks were formed under permanent roofs, some few thatched, but mostly tiled. These are placed on four lofty poles at the corners, by which they can be elevated or depressed, according to the greater or less quantity of hay there may be in the stack. Some few gentlemen in England, in the vicinity of cities, have adopted the same plan, but here it is universal ; and I think these permanent instead of temporary erections, arc one among many indications, that a great scarcity of agricultural capital has not been experienced in Holland. As I approached nearer to Doesburg, tiie land appeared a rich black sandy loam, very easy to work, and very produc- tive. It is, however, somewhat heavier than what 1 had passed DOESBURG. Sp on the other side of Arnhem. The Upper Yssel, a very beau- tiful stream, where I viewed it, confined within its channel, has on its banks some very rich meadows, which are over- looked by the gentlemen's seats on the left hand, between which are large tracks of arable land, in good culture ; and behind them, sand-hills fringed with recently planted firs, pines, oaks, beeches, and birches. The usual rotation of crops here is first beans, then wheat, in which clover is sown, and after the clover, oats; some of these lands are of a stifiFer texture, on them it is usual to make a year's clean fallow, after which the same rotation of crops is pursued, and the four crops in such soils are reputed to bear considerably more than the same number on the more easily worked land, on which the whole year's fallow before the beans is dispensed with. The small city of Doesburg is a fine object, seen to great advantage, as it is approached by crossing the bridge of boats over the Yssel. The place is well built, the streets are wide, and its general appearance is handsome, deriving some beauty from a fine large church and lofty tower, from which is beheld a prospect of richness and verdure, to a considerable distance. This church is served by two clergymen, the senior of whom, has eleven hundred, and the junior, with whom I conversed, a thousand guilders annually ; each of them has a house and some glebe land, which with the stipend and official fees, make in this country a decent subsistence. It is said to have derived its name from Drusus Nero, the son-in-law of the Emperor Augustus, and that the Yssel, the branch of the Rhine on which it is built, was the canal of Drusus, when this place was one of the most important fortresses in the hands of the Romans ; many antiquities discovered here in the sixteenth century, if they do not attest the particular fact of its origin, at 60 DOE^BURG. least prove, according to my reverend informant, its high an- tiquity. In subsequent periods it was a place of some conse- quence, and formed a part of the Hanseatic league. The river affords it some commercial advantages. It is navigable for barges, as nearly as I could judge by the eye, of sixty or seventy tons burden ; they are flat and bluff about the bows, and carry a considerable dead weight of iron, as much as fifty tons, and then fill them up with lighter substances. I could only guess at their tonnage, for I knew of no common standard by which the Dutch measurement of ships could be reduced to our English tonnage ; and no person I met with could give me any information. There are some extensive iron mines near this place, which are worked with advantage. The ore is easily raised ; the neighbouring woods supply charcoal at very low prices, and both cast and wrought iron are fabricated of a good quality. The benefits of this branch of industry are said to have considerably diminished since the return of peace. The principal dependance of this place, however, has been its agriculture, and a few years ago that was very profitable and very flourishing. Much of the land is well calculated for the growth of tobacco, and great quantities of it are to be seen in every direction in the fields, and large buildings con- structed for drying and storeing it. When the Berlin and Milan decrees were in force, the project of supplying continental Europe from its own soil, with the commodities before fur- nished from the eastern and western parts of the globe, gave to the cultivation of tobacco a great stimulus, and it soon rose to a very high price. When peace was made, the cultivation ot it near Doesbin-g, was at the highest pitch, and the prudent and timid capitalists had embarked their funds in it to a DOESBURG. if5X most extensive degree. The price also fell immediately below that at which it could be produced in Europe. The quality of the European tobacco is not such as to secure the regards of the smoakers and chewers of it, when it is put in compe- tion with the produce of Maryland and Virginia. A violent reaction has been the consequence ; those, who with some faint hopes of contingencies that might create a sale, have continued the cultivation, are in great distress, and anticipate the loss of all the capital they have embarked. The tobacco grown here is totally rejected for every purpose, except that of making snuff; the nominal price is about fifteen guilders the quintal, or nearly three-pence per pound ; but I was told that any person offering two-thirds of that price might purchase a very large quantity. The same persons grow corn, but that is also sold for a loss, and they fear will continue to be so, unless the ports of England should be opened for its sale. The value of arable land is much depreciated from the calamitous circumstances which have been hinted at. The rich meadows near the city have fallen less in value, and are now worth from fifty-five to seventy pounds the acre. The pastures they furnish will fatten, without any extraneous assistance, an ox, to the weight of from 2,500 to 3,000 pounds ; they are usually fattened when five years old, and are then sold to the butchers at from forty to fifty pounds. The course of cultivation on the arable lands adjoining to these meadows, is usually potatoes, wheat, rye, and beans, a rotation that appears highly censurable, even where the number of cattle kept in the meadows supply abundance of manure. Where the soil is somewhat more tenacious, the potatoe crop is omitted, and the other parts of the rotation pursued after a year's fallow. The sheep are not numerous, they I l/.<- 52 DOES BURG. are of the long woolled breed, have white faces, no horns, and very long legs; they are a very ill-formed race, but produce much coarse wool, their fleeces weighing from eight to nine pounds; they are shorn but once in the year. The lambs are brought forth in January and February, and in the month of May, before shearing, the ewe and lamb are estimated to be worth about fifteen or sixteen guilders, or nearly thirty shillings. If this species of stock were attended to, and the breed improved, which, however, presupposes an extensive turnip culture, it would become more beneficial than most of the other agricultural pursuits of the district. Some calcareous stone is found here, the first I had heard of in Holland. It is burnt to lime by wood fuel, and used for build- ing ; but though it would be highly beneficial, it was utterly unknown as manure to all the persons I conversed with. There are several fine seats on the road from Doesburg to Deutichem, which display ancient baronial grandeur. The Castle of Capel, one of them naturally drew the observation of an Englishman, as a seat of a family displaying the ancient mag- nificence, one of whose members was the favourite of King- William, and founder of the noble house of Albermarle. The winter residence is near Dort, and the summer is passed at Capel. It deserves to be noticed to the honour of this family, that the head of it was the first who set the example to the nobles of Guelderland of enfranchising the peasantry, who were in the condition of slaves. It is a most respectable mansion, with a moat round it, some part in the castellated form, but altered in its general appearance by modern additions, whicii are far from being in strict unison with the original building. The estates around it are very extensive, and some comprising very fertile land, . Tl\e lueadows amidst which the castle is situated, are. DEUTICHEM. t)3 luxuriant; but much of the more distant land is rather poor, and is cultivated in the rotation of buck wheat, rye, and tur- nips. In the parts where they have little or no water meadow, cole-seed is sown to furnish food for the cows ; these are tethered on it with but a small scope, that all may be eaten, and none wasted by treading- under the feet; a practice I also remarked where cows were feeding in the young clover, among the corn stubbles. Whilst my post-horses were taking their bait of bread at a small wirthshouse, by the road side, I walked on a consider- able distance ; where in a barn, were two men and a woman employed in threshing and cleaning buck wheat. The flail they used appeared to me of a peculiarly clumsy construction ; and after some slight conversation, I examined the implement, and made a few strokes with it on the haulm, to try its effect. The woman immediately ran to me, took a wisp of straw and wiped both my shoes, then threw her arms round and kissed my cheeks, and cried " a forfeit." The paying a forfeit for meddling with implements was not new ; but the shoe cleaning and kissing puzzled me, though I have since heard that the former part of the ceremony is still practised on such an occasion, in some parts of Kent. I was, however, too gallant, not to give a trifling present, with the assurance that it was only the mark of grateful feeling for the salute ; a compliment which flattered the slatternly female, and produced laughter in the countenances of her clownish associates. I was invited into their house, where I rested till the carriage came up. It was a catholic family, and some of the pictures upon religious subjects, exhibited genuine Dutch drollery. One . piece represented the seven sacraments of their church. Under the head of confession, a priest was represented sitting in I 2 g4 DEUTICHEM. the box with his ear close to the listening liole, at which a beau- tiful female figure in a kneeling posture was whispering. The devil was standing behind her, with a chain in his hand that en- circled her waist, and appeared to be exerting all his strength to draw her from confession, or perhaps from the penance the priest was enjoining. Another part represented baptism, where the priest was plunging a naked boy into a font filled with water; and the Holy Ghost was descending in a beam of lioht, whose terminition rested on the breast of the child. The heaps of manure through this whole country, are made of a curious shape, perfectly circular, flat at top, and the sides very gently sloping. They are composed of the waste leaves of tobacco, the haulm of potatoes, a considerable quantity of peat, and some stable and farm-yard dung : this composition thus compacted together is most accurately covered with sods, the grassy sides of which are turned inwards ; every joining is carefully closed, and the whole is left to ferment at least one year before it is applied to the field, in the centre of which it is generally built. I reached Deutichem, the last city in Holland, and without changing horses, passed through it, with little delay, to the first post station in the Prussian dominions. This place, though, from being fortified, it is termed a city, contains only about 2,000 in- habitants, who depend almost wholly on agriculture. Having occasion to call at the post-office, I learnt in conversation there, what indeed I had from my own observations inferred, that the extensive cultivation of tobacco was bringing to ruin many of the decent cultivators in the vicinity. This place boasts of antiquities prior to the period in which the Romans first invaded Germany ; and there have been discovered the founda- tions of buildings, as my informant assured me, which were HOLLAND g5 evidently constructed before the entrance of that nation. The town is finely situated, and is surrounded by a country which, like almost the whole of Guelderland, very much re- sembles some of the most beautiful parts of England. Before entering on Germany, I shall indulge myself with a few observations on the state of Holland. I had not pro- jected to pass more than a few days in that country, in my way to the north of Germany, and therefore was not provided with such letters of introduction, as could give me an access to society, and enable me to judge of the state of man- ners, and the effects which twenty years of subjection to a foreign power, had produced on the characters and behaviour of the people. I visited but few private families, and was in still fewer evening parties ; but as far as I could judge by what I did see, the manners are polite, and the reception of visitors equally free from familiarity and formality. The dress of the people whom I fell in with, might pass without observation in England or France ; the conversation was too local to be interesting to a stranger, and upon all subjects connected with literary or scientific pursuits, there was a most lamenta- ble barrenness. Books, I suspect, are little thought of as sources of amusement ; and the time they occupy in a better state of society, was devoted either to musick or to cards and billiards. The efforts made to introduce the French language, had caused but little progress in it, as far as the great mass of the people were concerned, but its influence on talent was very pernicious ; few would cultivate their own language, when they appre- hended it would be gradually abolished ; and few would make any attempts in the French, in which they could scarcely hope to rival the natives. The professions which with us are gg HOLLAND. connected with learning, here scarcely give any, and certainly a very insufficient degree of encouragement to it. Some por- tion of learning is requisite for the clergy, but they must distinguish themselves within the pale of their own sect rather by their attachment to its peculiarities, than by those enlarged views, which arise from extensive knowledge. The clerical profession too, has no large rewards to offer. A still and quiet life, freedom from anxious cares, a humble mediocricity, little prospect of provision for a family, and only such dis- tinction as the limitted sphere of a small parish can offer, are not objects of ambition sufficiently powerful to stimulate to laborious exertions and continued efforts, those men who, with due stimulants in other countries, acquire the greatest eminence. The profession of the law has ceased to become honourable or lucrative, in a great measure, from the changes which the law has suffered ; the previous study at a University, and an assiduous discharge of the duties of an advocate, are not necessary pre-requisites for the office of a judge. Under the code denominated, from its pro- mulgator, Napoleon, I met an instance of a judge not more than thirty years of age, who had never before Jiis promotion studied law ; but not being destitute of abilities, could soon act under that meagre sketch of ill adapted jurisprudence ; and perhaps with less effort from not having before attended to those laws, which having grown with the habits of the coun- try, and being adapted to it, would have forced on his attention the instances of necessary injustice suffered under the new system. The profession of medicine is not, in Holland, very lucrative or very honourable. The fees are not large, and being j)aid in an aimual sum, at the end of the year, gives the idea of the HOLLAND. g-^ practitioner, being a kind of pensioner or superior servant pf the family, rather than of a friend, who accepts a compliment for kind offices, as is somewhat the feeling with us. The pro- fession of physic however, does include within its limited number a large part of the men of letters ; and as I was informed by those on whose testimony I could rely, a greater number than the church and the law together. The increased or diminished prosperity of Holland, is a subject that merits a little attention. When the country first fell under the yoke of France, the shock that was communicated extended itself to all the members of the community. The loss pf colonies, the ruin of the fisheries, the destruction of the carry- ing trade, the capture of some, and the confinement at home of the rest, of the commercial shipping, was all attended with losses which were aggravated by a long continuance of the factious spirit that had favoured their subjugation. The parsimony of no other nation is equal to that of the Dutch ; and in that parsi- mony, as much as in the large capital it possessed, did the nation find supports which enabled it to bear up under its accumulated evils. Much of the capital that was saved was carefully hoarded ; it ceased to be greatly productive, but on the small profits it afforded, its possessors were resolved to live. If the national capital was not increased, it was little or at all diminished, by the various exactions under the form of loans and benefac- tions that it suffered. Much of the capital was transferred to England, and other countries, where it was thought to be more secure, and very little activity to the general industry was com- municated by what remained at home. , This state of torpidity, accompanied with the hope of better times, and the patient expectation of some favourable change, 68 Rmm- continued many years, till the final extirpation of the French navy at the battle of Trafalgar, seemed to deprive the Dutch of all hope of being a great commercial nation, so long as they continued under the controul of France, of the termination of whose government no prospect presented itself. At the same period, the factions which had internally ruled the country were calmed, or forced to submit in silence by the transfer of the government, and the creation of a monarchy under Louis Buonaparte. His government was mild, and paternal; the wisest men in Holland were his confidential advisers, and as far as the impetuous temper, and extravagant views of his brother permitted, he acted upon their advice. Internal confidence was the first fruit of his accession, but attended with no expectation of becoming under him a com- mercial people. The conquest or the ruin of England to which the French were taught to look as a certain event ; and on the accomplishment of which the commerce and colonies of Holland as well as France were to be restored, obtained no credit in the latter country ; where, whatever other feelings existed, there were none that led them to doubt of the capacity of England to defend herself. In this state, the mercantile capitalists, appearing to abandon all hope of employing their money again in commerce, directed it to agriculture, and made large investments in land. Activity was thus communicated to cultivation ; and it happened fortunately to commence at a period when the increase of the continental armies, and the consequent demands for the productions of the soil, had begun to advance their price. Two deficient harvests in England had also produced a considerable and very favourable effect on the prosperity of the land-owners and farmers of Holland. Their corn was sent to tliis country, and produced a great HOLLAND. 69 profit. The butter and cheese which their dairies yielded, reached our markets without duty, and thus they were enabled to enter under favourable circumstances into a competition with those of England, where land is much higher, where heavy taxes are paid, and where, from the more expensive subsistence of the working classes, every kind of labour is dearer. The Milan and Berlin decrees when enforced, if they de- prived many of the luxuries which use had converted into neces- saries, had a beneficial effect on some of the agriculturists. The cultivation of tobacco and woad, and of the roots required for making sugar, were at first highly profitable, and tended to increase their production, as long as the monopoly of the whole Continent for such articles was, exclusive of the small quantity introduced by contraband trade, confined to the domestic growers of them. The annexation of Holland to the French empire, had very little other effect, than to enable Buonaparte to recruit his armies with more facility, by extending to it his conscription laws. The complete spirit of the French system was never generally diffused, especially that ruinous principle of an equal division of land, between the next of kin on the death of a proprietor. The laws and usages were little interfered with, for their new ruler was too much occupied with his recent marriage, with the affairs of Spain, and with the extravagant project of conquering Russia, and perhaps Asia, which brought on his ruin, to attend to tlie internal affairs of Holland. The taxes they were compelled to pay were light, when the produce of that land from which it was drawn was daily increasing in value, and when its surplus was annually augmenting to remunerate the capitalists. The accumulated capital of Holland thus transferred, from commerce to agriculture, and at first productively employed, K |Q HOLLAND. Kiis by the cessation of the war demand, become unproductive. The capital is not perhaps diminished, but it is buried in the soil ; and patience, very great patience, must be exercised, before it can be made to yield a remuneration, much less an augmentation. The annual income derived from the capital since the war, has scarcely covered the expenditure ; and the restrictive laws passed in England and France, on the importa- tion of the products of the soil, deprive the Dutch of much hope of speedy improvement. As far as a stranger can form a judgment, I should be disposed from the many new erections* and recently improved cultivation, to think that the increase of value on the capital of Holland, was much greater between the years 1806 and 1813, than the dimunition that has taken place since the latter period. The taxes imposed under the French government are still continued, and the necessities of the state have made it indis- pensible to lay on additional ones. This, with the depression of agriculture, and the absence of commerce, has created and nourished such a degree of discontent, as though not alarming is deplorable, and the more so, because it is natural. The low condition of agriculture and commerce is felt in diminished con- sumption ; and hence all the handicraft tradesmen find it diffi- cult to procure labour sufficient to maintain them, in even the economical habits to which they have been accustomed. That, in such a state, many in adverting to the period that lately passed, should regret it, and express wishes for its return, is not to be wondered at. Those who feel most, will reason least, and will certainly reason worst ; and in every country such must be the majority. Among all the numerous com- pkvints I heard, none were uttered against the king; whom all seemed to love as a prince endeared by the misfortunes he had HOLLAND. 71 suffered, and on whose good dispositions they could rely, if his ministers were as upright as they are confessed to be able. I believe, too, that those who most wish for some change of system would look with dread to the return under French dominion, and be as eager as any people in Europe to oppose it with all their power. sihike all those inventions called Constitutions, which are sud- denly struck out from the union of abstract principles, with the habitual practices of a nation, the system of government of the kino-dom of the United Netherlands, must receive much alter- ation before it can reach the highest point of practical good. A man must be highly presumptuous, who, without a more intimate acquaintance with the manners, feelings, and habits of a people than a foreigner can acquire, should venture to speculate upon the kind of change which it is desirable to make in the fundamental laws that regulate even a small community ; but it is impossible to look at the state of this kingdom, com- posed as it is of classes of population different, if not opposite to each other, and not perceive the dangers of legislating for them more readily than the remedies. In the Seven Provinces, which are usually distinguished by the name of Holland, from the most important of the number, there is still kept alive, a chivalrous spirit of independence; there exist recollections and associations, which recall the patriotic minds to the periods when their ancestors resisted the power of Spain in its zenith, contended with England for the dominion of the seas, and, with proudly remembered triumphs, checked the ambitious hopes of the Grand Monarque. The numerous monuments in their churches to the memory of their heroes, and the trophies that their public buildings display, have kept alive this spirit ; the late conduct of their deet before K 2 7*2' HOLLAND. Algiers, and the praises conferred on it by our Exmouth, have blown into a flame a spark, which French oppression had never totally extinguished. In Belgium, on the other hand, the name of independence has for three centuries been unheard ; submission to masters over whom they had no check, by whom a forced obedience was required, and who administered none of those consoling flatteries which the most rigid despots find it necessary to use towards their subjects, was their sole duty, and in that duty they were fully instructed. Instead of investigating they submitted, instead of enquiring they yielded, and thus sunk iii mental acquirements, to a state in which they were fitted to be either the instruments or the subjects of oppression, as best suited the purposes of those governors who happened to obtain authority over them. Of every religion we should speak with respect ; but whilst that of Holland was reasonable, sincere, and tolerant, that of Belgium was even below the general level of the corrupt church, of which they formed the most irrational part, in every thing that was childish, super- stitious, and persecuting. This plain picture of the two nations, is drawn not with any design to shew what should be done, but to bespeak candour if any failure should occur in the difficult task of amalgamating two such opposite descriptions of people into one united nation. The laws are different in the two countries. In Holland, the code of France has been acted upon as far as regards criminal proceedings, and in civil ones, as far as it could be reconciled to their favourite institutions. In Belgium it has been promvdgated, but never practically enforced. The legislature has before it the difficult task of forming a system of laws, which shall operate uniformly through a whole kingdom, in which the HOLLAND. 73 practices, institutions, and habits are at present very various. The Assembly of the States, as far as I could judge, have no great hold on the mind of the public, and not sufficient power without it to effect any great good. They are too little exer- cised in the feeling of independence, to have acquired the habit of practising it with dignity and uniformity. The body can neither originate laws, nor exercise inquisitorial power, but has solely the prerogative of arranging the detail of such mea- sures as the monarch may suggest for enactment ; or of rejecting his suggestions altogether. Its debates, or rather discussions, are conducted in either the French or Dutch language, as they may be treated of by the natives of Belgium or of Holland. The king, consulting the general spirit of parsimony which pre- vails, appears with but little parade, and incurs but light expense in his establishments or personal gratifications; and he thus secures the attachment of a numerous portion of his subjects. The cleanliness of the Dutch nation would be a sufficient indica- tion of their industry, even if the vast works constructed for pre- venting their country from being swallowed in the ocean, did not exhibit most striking proofs of this virtue. The accumulated capital of this country has been gathered by industry and par- simony, more than by adventure. No country can exhibit better proofs, that individual parsimony is not incompatible with public spirit, than Holland does at every step that is made in passing through it. The public works, including the churches, the roads, the bridges, and the dykes, all show that patriotism can produce wonderful eff'ects, when it has the solid foundation of individual economy to rest upon. The Dutch nation feels most deeply, and the whole country exemplifies most clearly, the truth of the maxim, par.simonia magnum vectigal. Whoever has travelled, will expect to find every thing dearer 74 HOLLAND. in a rich than in a poor country ; and in Holland he will not be disappointed, for, excepting England, no where is the ex- pense of travelling so great, to one whose time will not allow him to use the cheap conveyance of the treckschuyt. The charges at the inns are high, and the expenses of post horses, including the enormous tolls at the turnpike gates, quite equal to those of England. At every inn, for these high charges, the traveller will receive civil usage, tolerable attendance, good clean beds, and excellent provisions. GERMANY. WESTPHALIA. ddT .so guo-" .r.:f: Q-Ti. -^ , ^.^^di mc; :■. J .' » ; ; . 'V 1; ^ : i . -■ "- ,bii.i': ) bfiB Hi ,0- J)' ANHOLT. 1 HE first entrance to the Prussian territory is distinguished by lofty posts, placed on the roads at the boundary : they are painted diagonally, with black and white stripes. The change of dominion might be inferred from the numerous wooden images designed to excite catholic devotion, which are pretty thickly scattered on both sides the road. From their uncouth workmanship, they resembled any thing rather than human figures. A carved groupe of the Holy Virgin and Child, at the corner of a road, struck me as peculiarly grotesque. Though this country is now subject to Prussia, that government, very wisely does not meddle with its religion, but leaves it to enjoy that faith, and follow those practices, which had been established under its ecclesiastical prince, the Bishop of Mun- ster. The difference of territory was, however, discoverable by a more annoying circumstance, than the exhibition of harm- less images. The road changed instantly from an indifferent, to a miserably bad one ; and the dwellings of the peasantry gradually lost the cleanliness and appearance of comfort, which is so distinguishable within the limits of Holland. After leaving to the right the small town of Anholt, I passed on the left a mansion belonging to the Prince of Salm-Salm, to whom the district was conveyed in sovereignty, at an early stage of the French revolution, in exchange for his territories beyond the Rhine, which were annexed to France. He retained it till 1811, when it was made to form a part of Jerome's king- L / 78 BOCKHOLT. dom of Westphalia, and was afterwards, by the- treaty of Vienna, given with the rest of Munster, to the King of Prussia. The land is poor, and very indiflerently cultivated, but owing to the poverty of the inhabitants, no tobacco had been raised, when the growth of it was profitable ; and now the farmers have not to regret, like their Dutch neighbours, that they had embarked in a new species of husbandry. There seemed to be a great abundance of partridges, and from their short flight when I put them up, I imagined they had not been much accustomed to sportsmen. i- As I advanced towards Bockholt, the land became better, but the houses of the peasantry scarcely exhibited an improved appearance. The cultivation of flax seemed to be universal, but in small patches on each farm. In one house, which I entered, the operation of scutching was begun, and in all the others I saw spinning-wheels. Bockholt, the first post town in the Prussian territory, is a poor-looking, ill-built manufacturing city, containing 3,800 in- habitants. Several new houses have been built in it, but mostly for the working classes. The master manufacturers are men of very small capital, sometimes owning a single loom, and few possessed of more than three or four. The silk weavers are most numerous, and the manufacturers of cotton next in number, the latter however, possess the larger capitals. It is well situated for the erection of mills on the banks of the Aa, and has two spinning machines turned by that stream. In a conversation with a cotton manufacturer, he expatiated to me on the evils which they felt, from the introduction of so many English cotton goods. Afterwards, in speaking with a lady, whose appearance denoted much attention to her dress, she complained of the heavy duty which made all English muslins BOCKHOLT. -(^ and stockings sell for so much higher a price in the Prussian dominions, than they did in Holland ; such is the difference between producers and consumers, that governments are often, as in this instance, exposed for the same act to the blame of opposite parties. I saw some dimities and other goods made here, which appeared very stout and strong, but could form no judgement as to the relative price between them and English goods of the same description. They appeared to me stronger than our's are generally made. This place pro- duces also some iron wares, but to no considerable extent. A castle, the former residence of the prince, seemed in a neg- lected state ; besides that one, the only public buildings are two catholic churches and a stadt-house, with nothing remark- able about them. The posting through all the Prussian territories, is under the management of the crown ; the regulations are strict, the prices are fixed, and printed particulars of the distance and expense of horses and carriages, and the fees to the postillions and the waggon masters, are stuck up in conspicuous places in the post-office. In the new dominions, the arrangements are yet inferior to those in the old states. The pace of travelling is defined according to the state of the roads ; but a very small additional fee will induce the postillions to exceed the rate of legal driving. The cost of posting with a pair of horses, to a traveller who has no carriage of his own, is about one shilling the English mile ; if he has his own carriage, it will save him about two-pence in each mile. I wished to travel on horseback, with a postillion to carry my portmanteau on ano- ther horse, as I should thereby be enabled better to view the country, and the state of its agriculture ; but this not being provided for by the regulations, the post-master refused to L 2 80 BORKEN. act^Ttimodate me, till I offered to pay him the same price as if I had used his carriage ; which was too strong a temptation to be resisted. I afterwards , according- to the state of the roads, of the weather, or of my own feelings, took post-horses, either with or without a carriage, on the same terms. I proceeded to Borken, which having gates and walls, is^a^ city, though it contains but little more than 2,000 inhabitants. The walls are in ruins, and the ditch and glacis usefully turned into very prolific gardens. The country between Bockholf and Borken presented such varieties of fruitfulness and barrenness, of good cultivation and negligence, as are seldom to be seen in the short distance of twelve miles. Near Bor- ken the scenery is good, the oaks large, and on the banks of the Aa, which runs by this place as well as Bockholt, there is some excellent meadow land, on which a good second crop of grass was making into hay. The hedges are thick and lofty, and every variety of tree, except elm, was in flourishing growth. The general aspect of the country reminded me stronoly, of the district between Tunbridge and Penshurst. The harvest of buck-wheat was still in the fields ; the sheaves were neatly bound with rye-straw, and placed in cocks, and a sheaf, with its bottom spread over each cock, was placed on the top to protect it from rain. Borken depends principally on its agriculture, but has manufactories both of woollen and linen cloth, though neither very considerable. In travelling through the Prussian states, it is necessary to be apprised, that the post-houses are generally the worst inns ; and if a traveller intends to pass the night in a town, he should go to some other. The post-masters, as officers of government, and depending more on it than on their guests, are seldom very solicitous to provide the best accommodations, or to conduct BORKEN. 81 themselves with any great degree of civility. By leaving the post-house at Borken, and asking the advice of the first well-dressed man I met, I was directed to a very clean and comfortable inn ; and I uniformly, afterwards, made a point of not sleeping at the house where I was to be provided with horses. The first five or six miles after leaving Borken was over a tract of heath-land, spreading to a considerable extent, on both sides of the road. A great portion of it has been recently planted. The fences are well made, consisting of double walls of turf, between which acorns and other seeds of forest trees have been sown, and appear to flourish. I judged the fences to be three or four years old. This extensive heath was the property of the corporation of Borken ; part of the plantations have been made by that body, and a considerable portion was sold to individuals at ten dollars the morgen, or less than one pound the acre ; and the purchase money applied to plant that which the corporation have retained. The heath ter- minated in a fine and extensive wood, very different in its character in various parts, some being thick underwood, and the rest consisting only of lofty and branching oaks. It bounds the castle and village of Ravensburg, and belongs to the count of that name. The castle is a large pile, moated round, the out-buildings very capacious, and the gardens and pleasure grounds laid out with more taste than is usually seen in Germany. The whole place presented a picture of what I should suppose was the style of our greater Barons, on their own domains, two centuries ago. The castle is, however, of more modern date than the surrounding buildings, and not more than J 00 years old. The farm-houses in the village of Ravensburg are numerous. 82 RAVENSBURG. the holdings small, and the farmers all a kind of copy-holders under the Ritcr, (Knight) or Lord of the Manor, to whom various feudal services are due for the land they hold, which they have not the power of alienating. These feudal rights to personal service, at accustomed periods, in the sowing and har- vest seasons, are the principal benefits which the lord derives, except the fines on the death of each holder, which were repre- sented as very trifling. The lord has, however, the right to the feed on the whole of the land after harvest ; and this would, of itself, be an obstacle to the introduction of green crops and other improvements, if the occupiers had either the knowledge or the capital to adopt those modes of husbandry. Such small holdings are, from their own nature, a check to all considerable alterations for the better. At another village, Landsberg, where I stopped to make some enquiries, I conversed with an intelligent woman who kept a shop, and whose husband managed his own farm. She said her husband, who was from home, would have been glad to have seen me, as he had been in England, and wished he could learn how to make his land look like what he had seen there. I found he had been a soldier, and had been raised to the suc- cessive ranks of Serjeant, quarter-master, and adjutant, by Murat, when Duke of Berg, in which dukedom this country is situ- ated. He had served with him in Spain, had been taken pri- soner and sent to England, where he had his parole in some country town, the name of which the good woman could not so pronounce as to make me understand her ; but it was some place, the fields around which were often the subjects of his conversation with his family and brother farmers, to whom he told wonderful stories of their productiveness. With great civility this good woman showed me her farming premises ; she COESFELD. 83 had some good cows, which she said, when two years old, had cost her husband twenty dollars each (about three guineas). The wages of the labourers are about fourpence-halfpenny a day in the summer, and three-pence in the winter, besides food. The mode of threshing was different from what I had before observed ; the flail had a handle in size like ours, the beating part, as large as my wrist, was about one third the length of the handle, and the effect was produced rather by the weight of the implement, than by the force of the stroke given to the corn. The labour seemed to be light, and was performed by women and boys, as well as men. On a small barn floor, six persons were employed in the operation. The sheaves were laid open in two rows, on the opposite sides of the floor, the threshers were in a line, and as they receded, at every step the flail fell on the corn, whilst one woman with a rake shook the straw, and drew it aside. 1 could not ascertain how much these six persons could thresh in a day, but I thought that two o-ood workmen in England would have done more, and have done it cleaner. These people receive the twentieth sheffel for their labour, and are besides supplied with a quantity of beer. After several deviations from the road to view the country, 1 reached the city of Coesfeld, the capital of a department of the same name. It is situated on the river Berkel, and contains a population of 5,500 persons. It has three catholic churches, the largest only of which I thought worth viewing. In this there are many altars, many images, and some miserable paintings ; from its size, the appearance of the high altar, and the organ, it derives an air of grandeur. The city has also a gymnasium, or public school, a hospital, and a government house ; but with all 84 COESFELD. these public buildings, it is a very miserable looking place. The only tolerable edifice is a large paper manufactory, at the end of the town, with a good house, the owner of which, and his factory, are under the patronage of the king. The weather appeared threatening, and induced me to proceed from Coesfeld in a carriage ; it was a small waggon, with basket-work sides, and a kind of calash in the middle, with a seat on springs, very light, and not very uneasy. The land visibly improved at every step ; there were fine wheat stubbles, with clover well planted, and very high, on which the tethered cows were feeding. The road was bad, through an extended valley, from which gentle undulations of fine arable land, rose to the brow of hills, on both sides, which were clothed with fine wood. The soil is a loamy clay, with a bed of soft rag-stone under it, similar to that seen about Penshurst, but I think it better land. At a village in this valley, I learnt that the usual rotation of crops, was first rye after a fallow, then turnips, followed by barley or oats, next wheat, and on that clover ; a rotation that appeared to me most improper, but being feudal land, the system cannot be very easily changed for a better. I suggested the propriety of sowing clover in the barley or oats, and the wheat following the clover, but I found the custom was too firmly established to be altered. This land is ploughed with four horses, but they went at a good pace ; they are worked four hours in the morning, and four in the afternoon. Tlie land is manured for every fourth crop ; for rye and wheat it is ploughed sometimes twice and sometimes three times. There are very few sheep in this district ; those I saw were very poor, of a miserable race, and the greater part of them black. The dress of the females in this part of the country, was NOTTULEN. 8.5 almost uniformly the same, scarlet petticoats, black bodies, and no covering on the head. The men almost universally wear wooden shoes, the poor from economy, the rich from comfort ; the latter say, that in their dirty country, where the ground is in winter constantly wet, they are more conducive to health than leathern shoes. The measure commonly applied to land in this country, the sheffel, is about two fifths of our statute acre ; one man, who was said to be a large farmer, told me he had two hundred sheffels, but that most of his neighbours had from fifty to one hundred ; that with drawing wood, which gives con- siderable employment to them, it required four horses to each hundred sheffels of land, which seems a most enormous waste of animal labour. At the post-house in the large village of Nottulen, which contains a population of 3,000 persons, where I had changed horses, as I was about to set out, I missed a small travelling bag, containing a portfolio with all my papers, letters of introduction and credit ; this alarmed me much, as I had not any means of pursuing my journey unless it was recovered. The landlord attempted to calm me, by the assurance that there were no dishonest people in that country ; and that if it was gone back in the carriage that brought me from Coes- feld, it was sure to be safe. A man on horseback was des- patched, who returned with it in a few hours, but it was too late to get to Munster, through such roads as were described, and I was compelled to pass the night there. This vexation and delay were, however, more than compensated by an opportunity it afforded me of mixing with a society, or liar- monia as it was called, which met in the village that night; and to which a stranger was allowed to be introduced. A M gg NOTTULEN. very respectable man, whom I had been conversing with at the inn, and who was a large farmer and brewer, conducted with him to join the company, consisting of the Graff or lord of the district, his nephew, the physician, the cappellan or catholic priest, two or three disbanded officers, and some of the more respectable tradesmen. The presence of a stranger, seemed at first to create a slight embarrassment, but of no long continuance, and the conversation became as local, as is usually found in such kinds of society in every country. The Graff talked of his tenantry and his land, of the prices of corn and cattle, of the sum for which he could sell his fall of wood, and the difficulty the purchasers found in obtaining a vent for it. His nephew, a sportsman, talked of horses and dogs, the delights of the chase, and the sensations inspired by the sight of an assemblage of thousands of the peasantry inclosing the game in a circle, gradually con- contracting it, and driving it with shouts to the station where his uncle and the party of gentlemen that accompanied him were waiting its approach. He thought the mode of hunting and shooting in England, as I described it, very dull and tame, and not to be compared with the animated scenery and sensations of their grand cJias.se. My inquiries about vaccination, set the Doctor talking ; he expatiated on the merits of Jenner, and did not forget his own, as the first practitioner who had introduced it into the Grand Duchy of Berg, where it is now universally adopted. The priest was modest and polite, but reserved ; as I found he knew but little of his new sovereign, the King of Prussia, I put into his hands a statistical account of the Prussian dominions, with which and his pipe he was apparently fully occupied. One of the disbanded officers had served under NOTTULEN. 87 Murat, but returned to his native place after the first capture of Paris. When Buonaparte returned from Elba, he was ordered out by the Prussian government, and marched into Flanders. The regiment to which he was attached suffered much in the battle, two days before the field of Waterloo ; and on that day, being stuck in the mud, could not reach it till the contest was over, and was then too much exhausted to join in the pursuit. He said that they had slept that night on the dead bodies of the highland soldiers, whose petticoats and uncovered thighs as he described them, afforded no small amusement to the company, though they had, doubtless, heard the same tale twenty times before. One of the party who was, I found, a large linen manufacturer, and dyed much of it a dark blue, supposing an Englishman must know every thing, asked me the price of indigo in London. I did not wish to mislead him, or to put him out of conceit with his merchant at Bremen of whom he purchased it, but though I amused him as well as I could by describing the various kinds known in England, talked of the fine sorts of Guatimala, the great supply which India had of late furnished, and related the mode of preparing it, which I had formerly seen in America ; yet, however enter- taining it might be, I found it was not quite so satisfactory to the inquirer, as if I could have informed him where to save something in the purchase of the drug he used. The company were partly engaged in playing at the game they call whisk; though somewhat different from our whist, the principles of it are the same. They have five instead of four honours, the excess of the first game above ten, is carried to the score of the next game of the rubber. The suits are designated by the French names, irafle, pike, coeur, and di- mant ; the knave is called the Bauer or farmer ; the stakes for M 2 88 NOTTULEN. which they played were very trifling. The room was supplied with the Berlin, Miinster, and Bremen newspapers, but politics appeared to form a very small part of their conversation. Though little is said about it, it is easy to discover that they are not pleased with the Prussian government, which in ad- dition to the taxes before collected, has imposed new ones, and being administered with a rigid exactness, increases the aversion. They had been under their own Prince Bishop, then under Louis Buonaparte as King of Holland, then under Prussia, then a part of France under Murat, next under Jerome as King of Westphalia, and now again are become Prussian subjects ; and these various changes seem to have taught them practically, that however they may speculate, they have nothing to do with the government but to submit to it, nor with the laws but to obey them. Notwithstanding the changes the country has undergone, and the rigid military conscription which each master has equally enforced, the numerous marks of recent improvement are very visible. New houses, barns, and enclosures, with young plantations of great extent, are indications that cannot be mistaken. They cannot have come into existence without some increase in the capital of the country. They appear every where, and are conclusive evidence in favour of the opinion, that wealth and comfort have increased, notwith- standing tlic frequent complaints I heard of deterioration having taken place. The religion of all this country is catholic, and the present ruler no more interferes with it than his j)redecessors have done. I was pleased at observing, that though this country has been so long under the mediate or immediate autlu)rity of France, yet the religious feelings of the inhabitants do not appear to MUNSTER. 89 be obliterated by it. It is true that neither the postillions nor the peasants, in passing the images of our Saviour or the Virgin, lifted their hats or crossed themselves as they do in Spain ; but I remarked that before and after their meals, the hands were gently compressed, the eyes fixed, and amotion of the lips almost imperceptible, indicated the performance of some act of devotion. It had much resemblance to the practice of our English quakers at similar times. This country was, happily for it, not brought under the French government, till the fanaticism of infidelity, with its persecuting spirit, was ex- hausted by its own fury. The wood land in this district is so extensive, that fuel is remarkably low in price ; and all the dwellings have much larger beams, rafters, and joists, than I had ever seen before. The badness of the roads, and the absence of water-conveyance renders timber worth little or nothing on the spots where it grows. Oak timber in the woods is not worth more than three dollars Prussian, or between nine and ten shillings for a thousand cubic feet. Though labour is low, timber is comparatively much lower, and this will account for the large pieces used in the buildings. From Nottulen to Miinster, by the side of a miserable road, the fields presented a picture of high fertility, and thickly peopled villao-es. Very little of the land was sowed with wheat, though the soil is admirably adapted for its growth. It is, however, not the common food of man in this country, and if a large quantity is raised, a market must be sought at a distance ; and, consequently, the profit to be gained by the grower becomes an object of doubtful speculation. Rye is the grain almost uni- versally used as aliment, or with the working classes potatoes, which have lately supplied its place. Rye therefore becomes 90 MtiNSTER. a more certain production, and is by most farmers cultivated to the exclusion of wheat. In one village where I stopped, I was treated with some sad complaints. The demand for personal service is as strict under the Prussian, as under the former French governors; and the young men, from never knowing any other regimen, scarcely complain of their being exposed to it ; but they all like the French service better than that of Prussia. Under France the military were always first considered, the property and the comforts of the peasantry were never suffered to interfere with the gratification which was deemed expedient to afford the soldiers. The Prussian govern- ment is too poor to grant equal indulgences, and too paternal to suffer the military to oppress the civil inhabitants; each is strictly confined within its prescribed limits, and the pay of the troops which is very small, can not be rendered more effective by any exactions from the peasantry. It is not then extraordinary, that those young men who have served in the French armies, should excite dissatisfaction among the recruits of Prussia, by the representations they make of the superior advantages of that service, in which they had been compelled to pass their time. The more wealthy had paid affixed sums to the former govern- ment, to enable them to retain their sons at home, freed from the conscription. When the country was transferred to Prussia, the demand for their service was made by the new govern- ment, and those who had before paid for the exemption, were compelled cither to serve, or to pay again for the same pri- vilege. In these cases, it is true, I heard only the complaints and not the justification of the decrees, from which they arise. Whoever has conversed much with mankind, in various countries, and of different classes, will hesitate before he gives MUNSTER. 91 full credit to all the murmurs he hears against their governors. This remark naturally occurred to me, when I heard the females grumble at the taxes imposed on sugar and coffee by the king of Prussia. They acknowledged that they bought it, since the taxes were levied, at one third the price it cost them under the government of France, and its natural offspring, the continental system ; but seemed more displeased with the trifling tax which was now scarcely felt, than at the greater one which they had before paid, but which was now forgotten. Miinster is the capital of one of the three departments, into which the Prussian province of Westphalia is divided, and which bears the name of the city. The area is 2,652 square English miles, or 1,697,280 acres. The inhabitants, in the year 1817, were 319,026 Catholics, 31,958 Protestants, and 2,304 Jews*. The whole department, a part of which has been described, may be considered an agricultural country ; and from the state of the population, must be acknowledged to be fertile. Flax is grown in every part of it, and either in the form of yarn, or of linen cloth, is almost the sole com- modity which creates any external trade. In the year 18 16, the number of looms for weaving linen were found to be 10,719? and every house has one or more spinning-wheels, which give employment to the female part of the population, during the long nights of the severe winter, which usually prevails in this country. The manufactories for internal con- sumption, are some few woollen and cotton goods, the last of which occupy about six hundred and fifty looms. The city of Miinster, the seat of the provincial government * Erdebschreibling von Gaspari Ilassell und Cannabich, Vol. 3, p. 391. 92 MUNSTER. of the courts of justice, and of the military commander, is on the banks of the river Aa, rising above it with a gentle acclivity. Its inhabitants, in 1817, including the military, amounted to 18,218 persons. The walls which formerly defended it, are now demolished and converted into pleasing walks; whilst the ditches are transformed into most productive gardens. The entrance to it from the road by which I arrived is very fine ; an esplanade opened, which displayed the bar- racks with fine trees in front, under which a train of battery cannon were arranged. The streets are wide, well paved and lighted, and many of the houses large and handsome. The palace of the Prince Bishop, now occupied by the governor, is a magnificent pile of building, with one of the grandest staircases I ever saw. The roof of it is finely painted, but the whole is neglected, and hastening to decay. The park and gardens display the same want of attention among the remains of sumptuous, if not tasteful, decorations. This is still an episcopal city, but the bishop has only spiritual power. The canonrics, which constitute the chapter, are of considerable value, but after the death of the present incum- bents, their revenues will become the property of the crown. The dome kirck, or cathedral, has a fine appearance through the church-yard, which is well planted with trees, some of a very large size. The interior is grand, but seemed in a neglected state ; though one beautiful cha[)el, behind the high altar, is an exception to this remark, being preserved in the highest order and neatness. There are many other altars, before some of which, tapers are constantly burning, the expense of which is defrayed l)y pious donations of persons long since gone to their account ; besides the cathedral, there are thirteen churches for the catholics, and one for the MilNSTER. 93 Lutherans, which is now about to be considerably enlaro-ed. Tliere are, also, some convents both for males and females, a hospital, a poor-house, and a house of correction. The college, which formerly belonged to the Jesuits, is now converted into a university, on the instructions of which about eight hundred students attend ; it is a large pile of building, but not of ancient erection. The education is strictly gratuitous, and the professors have, besides houses and gardens for each, a salary of about one hundred pounds. Until lately, it was a mere catholic seminary, but the king has recently added four protcstant professors, making the whole number at present sixteen- Several of the professors are ex-Jesuits ; one of that order, to whom I was introduced, a very intelligent and con- versible man, accompanied me through the building. His department was mathematical instruction ; he seemed attached to his order, lavishing praises on the Jesuits' edition of Newton's Principia, and extending the same applause to other of their scientific productions, which he said were far better than any others, for the purpose of communicating knowledge. The Rath, or Council-house, is a large antique building, on the front of which is a painting alfresco, of the Emperor Charles the Fifth, which is well executed, and still in good preservation. In an apartment behind it, in which the cele- brated peace of 1648, which concluded the thirty years' war, was signed, are portraits of the several potentates that were assembled on that occasion. The cup, out of which they all drank, is likewise preserved, with some other memorials of the same important event. The singular history of the Anabaptists, a sect which may be considered as an excrescence of Luther's reformation, and whose concentration in this city gave them for a long period, N 94 MIFNSTER. a kind of independence under that tyrannical, vulgar fanatic, John of Leyden, is well known and is fully detailed by Sleidan. No one acquainted with the history of that event, will visit this city without feeling some degree of interest in that sin- gular insurrection. The house of the mock king is still shewn to travellers, and the three iron cages, in which, after cruel torturing, were exposed the bodies of John himself, of Knipperdoling, and of Creching, are still suspended from the tower of the church in the market-place. Among other public institutions in this city, are a veterinary school, an anatomical theatre, and a public library. If any judgment can be formed from the number and wares in the shops of the booksellers, Miinster is lower in literary taste than any other city of the same population in Germany. There is very little commerce here. The river Aa is not navigable, but a canal has been constructed for boats to the Vecht, which runs into the Zuyder sea. When I saw it, it was almost destitute of water and wholly unnavigable; a circumstance that might be easily remedied in the driest season. Although the tolls and the fieight of goods are enormously high, they scarcely pay the current expenses. The distance is only twenty miles, and the price of conveying goods is more than thirteen shillings the ton, being three times as much as is usually paid on our English canals. After quitting Miinster, whose immediate vicinity is covered with gardens, like that of other cities, the country appeared poor ; and what few crops were growing, were in a very bad state. At the end of five or six miles, I passed through the town of Tclget, where the Ems, in that place a small stream, is crossed by a stone bridge. The town contains 1,800 in- habitants, who are mostly employed in weaving worsted stock- TELGET. 95 ings ; they employ frames, on the same principle as those used at Leicester, but of rather a more clumsy construction. There is a handsome church, and some religious buildings near it. A few miles beyond it is Ostbevern, a town subsisting principally by linen weaving ; considerable quantities of flax are ffrown in the whole of the district. At Ransdorf, the next village, we gained the first distinct view of that range of lofty mountains, which divides Munster from Osnabriick. The way to this village, and from it over the mountains, is a military road ; and was planned, and begun to be executed when Jerome was king, but finished since by Prussia, partly at the expense of the landholders, whose estates border it, and partly by the corporations of the two cities, which are at each end of it. It is formed of lime-stone from the adjoining hills, broken into small pieces, regularly laid on and covered with chalk ; on both sides of the chausee there is a good soft summer road. Whilst this road was making, it gave much employment to the small farmers and the labourers. The price paid was one shilling and sixpence per day for each horse, and one shilling for each man. The common rate of wages now is about thirteen pence (eight giite groshen), without food, or about fivepence (three giite groshen) with food ; when that is fur- nished, it is of the coarser kind, rye bread, buck wheat, and butter milk, and a small daily portion of bacon ; judging by the size of the piece that was shewed to me, I should think not more than an ounce. They are allowed very weak small beer, and one glass of brandy, or rather whiskey, a day. One man in the dress of a discharged soldier, with whom I con- versed, told me they should never be in a good state till the French came there again. I rather think from my foreign accent of the German language, he judged me to be a French- N 2 96' OSNABRUCK. mian ; and thought by his compliment to obtain a trifling present. I think, however, the sentiment is far from unusual with the working classes of the people. I saw by the large heaps of stones recently drawn to the side of the road, that the Prussian government, which is most attentive to the improve- ment of the highways, is not disposed to suffer this work of the French to deteriorate in their hands. The country to the^ foot of the mountains is cultivated generally with a rotation of rye, turnips, and buck wheat, and the dung is administered with liberality. Some of the lands are cultivated with the rotation of flax, rye, and barley. The excellent road, before noticed, is carried round the mountains with so much skill, and the ascent is so gentle, that it can be accomplished without any very extraordinary exertion of the horses. The prospect gradually widening as I approached towards the summit of the pass, exhibited a 'most extensive and beautiful display of cultivated scenery toward the south, whilst the lofty mountains in front still seemed to present an insurmountable barrier, both from their height, and the impenetrable woods with which they were clothed. This forest scenery over my head was good, but it wanted that variety of tint, which at this season is in England the greatest beauty of the woods. On the ascent of this range of mountains, I passed the boundary of the Prussian territory in this quarter, and entered on the kingdom of Hanover by the principality of Osnabruck. About halfway up the hill stands the town of Eburg or I burg, containing about 1,100 inhabitants, who are chiefly employed in agriculture, and in the weaving of linen. A magnificent castle overlooks the town, and from its windows ntay be advan- tageously viewed the fine tract of country which I had passed OSNABRiJCK. 97 over. It is a pile of magnificent appearance from the valley which it looks down upon, but its nearer approach is not favourable. Its length is great, as I counted one hundred and eight windows in a row on the only floor, for it is but a single story high. It was an ancient family residence of the Dukes of Brunswick, and our King George II. was born in it. Its date, however, goes back to a remote period, according to some before the Christian era ; but it is accurately proved by indisputable records, that Pepin built a castle here in the year 753. There was formerly a convent, which was con- tinued to 1803, when with all others it was totally abolished. From Eburg, the road continued to ascend among increasing richness of prospect, till we reached not the summit of, but a pass through, the mountains, which is invisible to the observer from below. The mountain forest, through a narrow part of which the road runs, is about thirty-two miles in length, and on the average about twenty in breadth. This range is wholly com- posed of lime-stone, as its broken and abrupt face in many parts exhibit, and that which has been taken to make the roads shews that it is of an excellent quality. The descent on the north side of the ridge was abrupt, and very short whe i com- pared with the ascent on the other side. The Hanoverian government, within whose territory it is situated, are much less anxious for the improvement of the roads, than the King of Prussia ; and as this part was not finished when the new arrangements were made, it is left nearly as when Jerome Buonaparte was driven from his throne; and some parts of it are as bad as any thing I saw when in Germany twenty-two years ago. The beauty of the country, however, more than compensated for the badness of the road. It was undulating but not hilly. 98 OSNABRUCK. well vt'ooded, and watered by numerous transparent rivulets. The soil is somewhat heavy, but the meadow lands are fine, and what seems a sure indication of a good soil in this part of Germany, there were fine wheat stubbles, with thickly planted clover growing among them. The cows were numerous, and in good condition, and I was informed, produced good butter in abundance. The sheep were few, nor does the land appear to me to be so well calculated for them, as much that I have passed. The cultivation of potatoes is very considera- ble on both sides of the mountain forest. The forest, besides various kinds of wild deer and other game, is stocked with wild swine. These animals, under the denomination of the Hohe Jagdt, are preserved for the sport of princes and nobles of the highest class ; and other persons are forbidden, under severe penalties, to kill them. The great extension of potatoe culture by providing them with abundant food, has caused them to increase prodigiously ; and in the nights of autumn, before that vegetable is dug up, the depredations they com- mit are a serious annoyance to the farmers. Though they are forbidden to kill them, I have good reason to believe they are not very scrupulous on that head, when they can do it without the apprehension of discovery. Osnabriick, a city of 9,300 inhabitants, is the capital of a province of the same name, forming a part of the newly-erected kingdom of Hanover. At the peace of Westphalia, it was settled that the sovereign of Hanover should nominate the prince alter- nately with a catholic power, who, under the name of a bishop, but without the clerical part of the character, should be the governor of the country. The Duke of York was nominated to it in his infancy, and retained it till the overbearing power of France wrested it from Jiim. By the treaty of Vienna it was OSNABttiJCK. 99 added to the kingdom of Hanover, and with the addition of Lingen, Meppen, and Emsbuhren, now forms a province. The extent of it is* 1,827 square miles, (English) or 1,067,280 acres. It contains eight walled places denominated cities, though some are small, eight market towns, and one hundred and twenty-nine parishes. The inhabitants are, according to a census in 1816, 188,600, of whom, 120,800, are catholics, and 67,000 are protestants of the Lutheran communion, among which, however, are included some few of the reformed or calvinistic persuasion. The city is the seat of the provincial governor, of the bodies that administer the revenues, and of the inferior courts of justice. It may be said to consist only of one long street, for those that diverge from it, though numerous, are very short. It has many good houses, is well paved and lighted. The stadt-house in which the peace of l648 was concluded, (for whilst some of the negotiations were at Munster, others were in this city), is a fine old building. The cathedral is large and rather splendid, as is also the other catholic, and the two Lutheran churches. •<'■ Part of the time I spent in Osnabriick, I passed with a venerable clergyman, the president of the Lutheran con- sistory. He had laboured in his vocation, I believe with diligence and success, between thirty and forty years in this city. He had witnessed much distress, and once made a journey to England, to solicit benevolent aid for the poor of his flock. He complained that the catholics had of late been very suc- cessful in making converts, especially among the poorer class of his hearers. Knowing that the catholic bishop of this city, * Reinhold, das Bistluira Osnabriick nach de Bushe und Benoit. 100 OSNABRtJCK. as well as of Munster, had been praised for their liberality by , our English Bible society, of which my reverend friend was a member, I turned the conversation towards the prelate, of whom he spoke in very high terms. He told me, however, that when any of the catholics asked a Bible from their Bishop, he would say to them, " The Old Testament is a difficult book — you cannot understand it— it will be of no use to you— here is a New Testament— that you may understand, and it will be quite ggSUfficient for you." gg. This is a manufacturing city. The principal article for ^.^|jich,Jt is celebrated, and to which it has given its name, ^jif , not, made here, but in the farm-houses in the surrounding |r|?.jpuiitry.; It is spun from flax of their own growth, by the females of the family, afterwards put out to workmen, who iWeave for hire ; and when ready, is brought to the public ^ Hiarket in the city, when commission merchants buy it, on account of the great houses at Bremen. They export it to the different markets, and the greater part ultimately reaches , the West Indies, where it is principally used for clothing the , slaves on the plantations. A merchant to whom I was intro- duced, informed me, that the average quantity brought to this market, does not exceed twenty-two thousand pieces annually, each piece of about one hundred and twenty ells in length. The other manufactories carried on within, or adjoining the city, are for coarse woollen cloth, tanned and white leather, paper, fine linen, snuff, soap and turnery ware ; none of which 1 in England would be called considerable, but are here highly beneficial by the employment they afford, and the commerce they create. From Osnabriick, the road to Mindcn was through a country ,/5^t f\i;^t, bad, mjtl.as I,. approached the small town of Nettlested, MINDEN. ^'^^1 though the soil was better, the appearance of poverty and negligence was equally disgusting. The cause of this visible misery must, I think arise from the feudal tenures, under which the land is held. The rent to the lord is paid partly in produce, partly in labour, and a small portion in money. The latter amounts to sixteen gute groschen the shefFel, or about three shillings and sixpence the acre ; and this small sum is paid by monthly instalments, a proof of the poverty of the tenants, and perhaps of the lords. I found it a hopeless task, from the patois of the people, and the various measures, to calculate what the rent could be that arose from these three sources, and gave up the attempt, for which any one who has tried the same experiment in a foreign country, will very readily pardon me. The country is subject to Prussia, but the established clergy, the catholic, take the tithes in kind. I have seen no tolerable land on which the poverty of the inhabitants was so very obvious. The implements were miserably formed, the tines of the harrows of wood, the waggons of very slight construction, and the houses were filthy both within and without. Some few patches of land had a very good appearance, sufficient to shew what might be done by improved husbandry on the whole of it. Rye, buck wheat, barley, clover, and in some places beans, were either growing or had been recently harvested. Potatoes, of a very small size, were digging up by the peasantry. The ascent of a gentle hill, beyond Nettlested, gave from its summit a view of the plain, through which the Weser runs ; and on its banks, the city of Minden, with its lofty spires, strong fortifications, and lengthened bridge. After passing over an extensive line of country, before enter- ing on a district of a different character, it may not be improper o 102 MINDEN. to suo-ffest a few observations, Avhich, though arising from the local circumstances, are not unworthy of consideration. The tract of country from the frontiers of Holland to the vicinity of Minden, though it has a few spots barren from natural sterility, and a few from negligence, has on the whole a o-ood soil : I think better than any to be seen in this island on an equally continued line. The population, as appears by various censuses, is equal in density to any, and superior to most of our mere agricultural counties. There are, indeed, in it no manufacturing districts, where the greater portion of its inhabitants are employed in the preparation of productions for sale beyond their own boundaries ; almost the whole manu- facturing labour is applied to providing for domestic con- sumption, and is conducted by those persons, and in those seasons which are not calculated for agricultural operations. The surplus production of this whole district is so very small, as to be scarcely deserving notice. The whole amount of the surplus productions of the three Westphalian provinces of Prussia, and the bishoprick of Osna- briick, containing together, 1,262,730 inhabitants, and 0,186,000 acres of land, does not on any calculation exceed in value three hundred and fifty thousand pounds annually ; and in this sum is included about forty thousand pounds, which is estimated to be brought back by labourers, who during the summer-months go into Flolland to work for better wages than they can obtain at home. The whole of the population is sustained by that food which is most easily raised within the districts where they reside ; and parsimony, in the use of all tlie necessaries of life, is carried to its greatest possible extent. The surplus of the productions of the soil in the best years, so little exceeds the consumption, that there is no store on hand to meet such MINDEN. 103 years of scarcity as will sometimes occur ; and in no parts of the continent, even in those which had been the theatres of the most extended warfare, was the sad season of 181? felt with such dreadful severity, as in the fertile provinces of Westphalia. The products of Westphalia beyond the consumption amount, according to Hassell*, to five shillings and eight pence per head on each inhabitant, or twelve shillings and sixpence per acre on the extent of the land ; whilst those of England have amounted to more than ninety-five shillings for each in- dividual, or twenty-five for each acre of land, according to the last parliamentary returns of the population, and the average exports of the years 1816, 1817 and 1818. This enormous difference of surplus products, cannot be attributed to the weight of taxation, because though in West- phalia, it is heavier when compared with the excess above the consumption of their commodities, it is much lighter in com- parison with the quantity of labour that is applied, than in England. It is easy to see that this is owing to the want of capital ; but the question to be considered is, why upon a fruitful soil, with the means of sending their products to countries where it would sell higher than it does at home, the capital has not so increased as to bear, at least, some moderate proportion, with what has taken place in other countries. The far greater part of these provinces is divided into small farms, the occupiers of which reside together in considerable villages. The average of these farms does not exceed, if it reaches to so much, as forty acres. The rent to the lord of the manor is paid, under various titles, sometimes in the produce * Erdbescreibung erster abtheilung vierter band, O 2 104 MINDEN. of the soil, sometimes in a fixed nrnmber of day's-labour of the tenant, occasionally of his horses, and sometimes, though but rarely, in money. It however, very commonly, consists of a mixture of each of these different modes. The occupiers are generally a kind of copy-holders, under the proprietor, to whom they are bound as their feudal lord, and are called his subjects (unterthaner.) The lands descend from father to son, and the work is generally performed by members of the family. ^'In such a state of things the division of labour can scarcely take place, nor the labour be all productively applied. There are many seasons when such farms can afford no occupation to those who are established upon them ; their neighbours being in the same state ; as no employment can be obtained in any other way, much time, and consequently labour, must be thus lost. The number of horses kept on these small farms, is far greater in proportion to their extent than is required on larger ones ; and hence arises a consumption which, in different circumstances, would be an actual surplus, and by the natural process of reproduction would create or augment the capital. The increase of population, is indeed promoted by this plan of small farms, and the employment which long and extended wars offered to the young men, prevented the evil of that increase from being felt ; but the peace has returned numbers to their homes in this country, who cannot find occupation, and would be an unsupportable burden on their families, if the general introduction of potatoes for subsistence did not keep them from the extreme of want. No improvements in agriculture, except that just alluded to of growing potatoes instead of corn, can be introduced into a district so oppressed by want, as those are where only such small farmers are employed in cultivation. They have no hope MINDEN. lOo to rise above their present situation, and no stimulus con- secjuentiy to great exertions, either of intellect or of labour. They have the bare necessaries of life, as their ancestors had before them, and enjoying these are too indolent to better their condition ; though besides living as poor and working as hard as the day-labourer, they are subject to cares and anxieties to ■ which he is a stranger. In times, like the present, when every agricultural product is selling at less than its cost, such men do not indeed feel the same pressure, as is endured by the richer and larger agricul- turists. To him who pays his rent in labour, or in produce^f. and who consumes the rest of his growth, it is of small con- sequence what price commodities yield in a market to which,^ he has little or nothing to carry. The loss of time spent by these small farmers in attending the markets is enormous; for, frequently, the whole of their gross sales cannot amount to more than the labour of the day that is thus spent would be worth in a well regulated condition of society. I entered Minden on a Sunday morning, when the bells were sounding for the early service, and the road was crowded with peasants on the way to the city. The shops, however, were open ; and those whom I supposed going to church, were entering them on their road. In a church I afterwards went to, I saw many of the people with their purchases in their hands, attending the devotion of the day. This city is the capital of one of the provinces of Prussian Westphalia, in which is the seat of the departmental government, and the inferior courts of justice. It contains a population of 8,500 inhabitants ; and by means of the Weser, carries on some trade with Bremen. Like other fortified towns, the houses are rather lofty, and the streets narrow ; but it is tolerably paved, and well lighted. There 106 MINDEN. are thirteen saw mills, which prepare the wood from the moun- tain forests, through which the Weser finds a passage, for the market of Bremen. There are besides some manufactories for cloth, hosiery, hats, gloves, linen, soap, leather, and snuff, but they are all inconsiderable. The field of battle, which took its name from the city, where in 1759, Prince Ferdinand of Brunswick defeated the French, is to the left. It was pointed out to me, but I did not visit it. The bridge over the Weser is six hundred feet in length, and twenty-four in breadth. The government of Prussia is now busily employed in making Minden, what it formerly was, a very strong place. A new citadel is erecting, and the ditches are cleansing and deepening. In this last operation, they have brought out many thousand loads of rich mud, which would be of vast value, if applied to the sandy plain on which the city is built. SCHAUENBOURG-LIPPE. After crossing the bridge of the Weser, I soon entered the territories of the Prince of Schauenbourg-Lippe ; one of those few of the smaller sovereigns who have remained amidst violent changes by which most of them have been reduced to nearly the situation of private individuals. The entrance to this principality was by a gradual ascent, which soon presented to the view a fine picture of the opening in the mountains, by which, surrounded with abrupt precipices, the Weser force* its way to the plains of Minden. As the ascent proceeded, the side of the hill below, and the valley in which the hill terminated, shewed a country of a very different character from any that I had yet passed ; instead of groups of cottages, and small barns huddled together in a filthy village, there was displayed a more open country, with large farms, and good houses, surrounded with a few fit for labourers, with exten- sive sheep-yards and cow-houses, evincing the riches of the couiitry, and giving proofs of its productiveness. There were many large flocks of sheep, which thougli of a bad lono- woolled breed, and ill calculated for the soil, shewed that the land was in a gradually improving state. Some fine rivulets trickled down from the sides of the hill above, and watered excellent meadows, which surrounded the town of Buckebourg, the capital of this principality. The domi- nion comprised one other similar town, three smaller ones, and one hundred and eight farms and villages, and containing 137,600 acres of land, and 24,100 inhabitants, who arc of the 108 SCHAUENBOURG-LIPPE. Lutheran communion* ; except the ruling family, and a few others, who are of the reformed or calvinistic persuasion. Buckebourg, though a city, contains only 2,060 inhabitants ; the greater part of whom depend on the court, either as ministers, lawyers, officers of the small army, or of the household, with the different tradesmen who supply their wants. The castle of the prince is a large, old, and far from handsome building, with a park surrounding it. There are two churches, a college, and an orphan-house, the appearance of the place is lively ; and its situation very fine. The other town Stadthagen, is about eight or nine miles from Buckebourg, of nearly the same size, but with fewer inhabitants. It is a long straggling place, with houses of very antique appearance, and a princely castle, inhabited by the widow of the last sovereign, who acted in troublesome times as regent, during the minority of her son, and conducted his affairs with such prudence, as to secure his dominions to him, when the other princes of the same class were nearly extinguished. The post-house, where I changed horses and rested myself, was at Neudorf ; a spa much frequented, especially within the last three or four years, and which has received this season upwards of seven hundred visitors. It is a most delightful p.pot to spend the hot months of summer in. It is considerably ele- vated ; overlooks Stadthagen and Buckebourg, as well as the extensive country below those towns. The walks about it are well laid out,' and afford abundant shade. The houses for the reception of the company are very spacious, in which guests may be accommodated with single rooms, or suites of apartments, as the size of their families may require. There are tables d'hote, ' Weddigens, Westph. Magazin, Vol. 3. SCHAUENBOURG-LIPPK. 100 where dinners are provided, or restaurateurs for the supply of those who choose to eat in their own apartments. INIost of the company liad left the place, but those few whom I saw appeared to be elegant in their dress, and judging from their carriages and servants, seemed to be of the better class of German society. The waters are of different kinds; some are used for bathing in the usual way; for paralytic cases the body of the patient is plastered over with hot mud, and what is called the steel-gas bath is snutfed up the nostrils. The cures performed here are most lavishly promulgated by the inhabitants, who subsist by means of company that resort to the baths ; and 1 was told, that the church is well adorned with the votive offer- ings of the crutches of paralytic patients, who, by tlie use of the mud baths, have been enabled to abandon them. From an English gentleman, whom I met in Hanover, I heard sur- prising accounts of the cure he had himself received. Be the eflticacy what it may, the baths are fast rising in reputation, whilst the cheap accommodations, the pleasantness of the scenery, and the amusements of music, dancing, billiards, and cards, act as inducements to others besides invalids, to repair to this place. Between Stadhagen and Neudorf, are some considerable coal mines, which are worked to great iextent. The few inhabitants of this small territory, have more disposable produce than the whole duchy of Osnabriick, which is so much larger. Besides coals, they sell to the surrounding countries, or send to Bremen, corn, wool, sheep, wood, and linen yarn, and cloth. The greater part of this principality is granted by the prince or other nobles, to a kind of steward, denominated Amtman ; who has a certain interest, generally but not always neces- p ■9 I Hj SCHAUENBOURG-LIPPE. saiily, descending to his successors ; this gives him an inducement to improve the property, whilst, from his situation, he is more enabled to conduct agriculture beneficially for himself, and for the community, than can be done by the small occupiers in Westphalia. HANOVER. bnn '■'■■■■" '(ilijii, . no gnior HANOVER. A* ROM Neudorf, the territory of Hanover is soon entered ; the long stage to that city is over a level plain of poor and sandy land, on which nothing is to be seen but occasionally large fields of rye, which had been early sown and was just sprouting out of the ground. The province, or as it is called the principality ( FiirsteiitJwm) of Kalenberg, which adjoins on one side to Schauenbourg-Lippe, extends on the other to the city of Hanover, and includes within its division that capital. Near the city, though not much more populous than the other parts of the province, the garden culture gives an air of im- provement, and the abundance of fruit trees, is a considerable benefit to the general appearance. The whole road in the Hanoverian territory, is a good chaussee, well constructed, and kept in excellent repair. The impression on entering the city is highly favourable, the streets are of a good width, and it is the only place in Germany where they are well paved for foot- passengers. Though some of the houses are of an ancient date and fashion, yet the greater part are very handsome buildings, and the public edifices, and the walks, diffuse an air of beauty and cheerfulness. The river Line, a rapid stream dividing the old and the new town, runs through the city in two branches, and has been made navigable to the Weser for barges ; it has several bridges over it, which are highly ornamental to the place. The present number of inhabitants, exclusive of the military, is about 18,000 ; and with them and 114 HANOVER. their families, amount to 24,000*. There are seven Lutheran, two reformed, and one Catholic Church, and one synagogue for the Jews. The royal public library is a fine large building, but not kept in the best state. The collection of books consists of between 90,000 and 100,000 volumes; access to it is easy, and under proper regulations, individuals may be accommodated by taking books to their own houses. I was sorry to remark that they were badly arranged, and that there is no printed catalogue of them. The librarian and his assistants are very attentive, and as far as they can, remedy the evil I have mentioned. In the collection are some valuable specimens of early typography. Cicero's Offices, printed on parchment by Faust, at Mentz, in 1465. A translation of the New Testa- ment by Luther, in 1522 ; in which the disputed passage of the three witnesses is not to be found in St. John's Epistle. A Greek Testament, printed at Alcala de Henares, in Spain, where the same verse is seen, printed eight years before, in 1514. I was much pleased with some illuminated manuscripts; one a breviary most beautifully coloured, said to have been presented to our Henry VIIL, by the Emperor Charles V. There is also the book of Esther, most curiously copied with a pen, and illustrated with drawings in a very uncommon style, which must have been executed at an enormous expense of time and labour. A very copious collection of the au- tographs of eminent persons, is one among the antiquities of the library ; among them arc those of Louis XIV., Queen Elizabeth, King William IIL The library looks on a beautiful public walk, formed on the fortifications, which are happily destroyed. It is a pleasing grove of large trees, and is termi- * Beshrcibunn- dcr Koiiiglichen Residcnzstadt, riauiiover von B. C. Spiloker. 1819. HANOVER. 1 1 .5 nated by. an elegant temple, in which stands a colossal bust of Leibnitz, executed in Rome, by an Irish artist named Hewetson, which displays first-rate talents in the sculptor. The house in which the assembly or states of Hanover assemble, is an elegant modern building, the staircase is peculiarly handsome. The hall of meeting is of a semicircular shape, supported by marble pillars. The floor is elevated in the part appropriated for the nobles, and is about six or eight inches higher than that on which the benches for the ple- beians are placed. The throne is neat but simple, and there is a small portion of the apartment for the accommodation of auditors, though none are admitted. The recesses in which the stoves that warm the chamber are placed, are very taste- fully decorated with Egyptian marble. The theatre in Hanover is a part of the royal palace, and the size of the house is much too large, and the establishment too expensive for the inhabitants alone to maintain it by their payments for admission. A considerable part of the expense is therefore defrayed by the king. The performers were good, but in my judgment the music was very much below the usual standard of German bands. Though the box in which I sat was not very distant from the stage, from the size of the building, I could not hear the whole play distinctly. I was told that, besides the gift of the house and the decorations, the amuse- ment costs the government annually, more than twelve hundred pounds. The most striking thing in this theatre is the curtain, which is a fine painting by Ramberg, a native of the city, and once a favourite artist of our late venerable monarch. The groves that lead to Herrenhausen are very fine, with cgach, horse, and foot-ways, between the different rows of trees that compose it. The trees are very large and regular, the ^Ig HANOVER. limes particularly so. The house does not bespeak much taste, and it was not convenient to me to visit the inside of it. Near it is a fine orangery 200 feet in length. Some bronze busts of various Greek and Roman heroes and orators, which were in this building, were taken away by the French in 1803 and conveyed to Paris, from whence they were returned after the battle of Waterloo. They had originally belonged to Louis -XlV.i and after his death were purchased by George I. to adorn his orangery. The commerce of Hanover is but inconsiderable, though it has the advantage of a navigable river to Bremen ; but, in fact, the production very little exceeds the consumption. The barges that sail from hence are mostly of a large size, and can «arry from fifty-six to seventy tons, but do not amount to more than twenty in a year, and there are not many of the smaller dimensions. As a central point through which the chaussee runs to Hamburg and Bremen, from the interior of Germany, many goods, especially linen and linen yarn, pass through in waggons. These are secured at the place were they are laden, by being thatched as neatly as any dwelling ; over the thatch a cloth is tightly drawn, and the whole being of a convex shape no rain can penetrate. ^^ The manufactures of the city, though they employ many hands, are almost wholly for its own consumption, or for that of the other parts of the kingdom. Woollen goods, leather, tobacco, and snuff, iron stoves, hosiery, and some few cotton goods are produced ; the printing of cottons, which existed during the war, is now nearly extinct. One considerable trade hero, is the brewery, which is carried on by a corporate body, with some exclusive privileges, upon a large scale. The bookselling trade is largely conducted by two houses of considerable fame. The HANOVER. 117 paper is made here, and the printinj^ is executed in the city ; but the works, like those produced from most of the other presses, are carried in sheets to the two fairs of Leipsic for publication, where they are exchanged with other booksellers for the literary productions of the other provinces. In this, as in most other cities in Germany, the continuance of guilds, or corporations, is a great impediment to the exercise of industry. In Hanover it is carried so far, that a workman though free of the old town, is not allowed to work for a master in the new ; and vice versd. Apprenticeships must be regu- larly served, before a workman can practise as a journeyman in any trade ; and when the term of servitude is expired, the youth must travel from place to place during a whole year, under the pretext of improving himself, before he is permitted to exercise his knowledge at home. The continuance of these ancient privileges, injurious as they are, have, from long usage, such hold on the people that their sudden abolition can not be attempted by any prudent governors, nor will they admit of alteration except by gradual and slow degrees. Education is much attended to in this city, and the provision made for the instruction of the indigent is equal to, or rather exceeding, that of the most charitable parts of Europe. Each of the Lutheran churches have charity-schools, and so have the Reformed, the Catholics, and the Jews. There is a school for the garrison, and one in the orphan-house, besides several others. There is also one of four hundred pupils, for the purpose of teaching the business of instruction to young men, who are destined to become schoolmasters ; and who, when duly qualified, are appointed to the several towns and parishes in the kingdom. The higher kind of education may be obtained in the Lyceum, and the Seminarium, where the Q 118 HANOVER. pupils may either complete their course, or be qualified to continue it in the university of Gbttingen. There is also an anatomical theatre, a veterinary college, and an institution for instructing females in the obstetric art ; and to these must be added, the military school, where the young men designed for the artillery and engineers are educated. I found the statfe of society in this city agreeable. I met with many very intelligent persons ; and am indebted for marks of politeness and hospitality to those, who would be hurt by being publicly named. I was pleased to find those parts of the royal family who had resided here, were much esteemed, and that the attention to business, and the uniform benevolence of the Duke of Cambridge, were very highly appreciated. • During my stay in Hanover, the early part of the mornings were spent in viewing some of the large farming establishments, within' twelve or fourteen miles of it. I adopted tlie plan of riding, found the horses good, and was enabled to hire one for myself, and another for a groom, on very reasonable terms. The immediate vicinity of the city is principally devoted to the production of culinary vegetables ; and hence manure is so valuable, that the price of it, as I found by several in- quiries, is considerably higher than in London. On my way to Schulenburg, as soon as I was clear of the gardens and orchards, I observed the soil to be light, and apparently exhausted from over cropping ; the villages were large, but looked poor, and the cattle very lean. As I was on horseback early, I saw some flocks of sheep before they had left tfhe fold. I examined several, and talked with the shepherds; one of them had under his care, a flock of three hundred and twenty, some ewes, and some taggs, all of the long-woolled kind ; but in other respects, of a very mixed race. Ho com- HANOVER. 119 plained bitterly of the dry summer, owing to which, thoui^h he had the range of three thousand acres of land, the ftock was in bad condition ; and as they grow no turnips, and must be fed with straw or hay and a few potatoes, through the winter, there were no hopes of their improvement before next summer. Most of the other flocks were in a similar state. These sheep are not the property of the peasants who cultivate the soil, but of their feudal lords, to whom they are a kind of copyholders, and who retain the right, among many others, of turning their sheep over the corn land from harvest to the following spring seed-time. The whole of this first part that I passed over, is known in Germany by the term of dreifeld boden, or three-course land ; where a bastard fallow is succeeded by two corn crops. In approaching Schulenburg, the complexion of the land im- proved ; it was of a less light texture, and with good culture was more adapted for wheat, than any laud I had seen since entering Hanover. The common rotation is a fallow, with either pease, flax, or potatoes ; then follow the two corn crops of rye and barley, or oats ; between every other, or sometimes every third, rotation they make a clear fallow ; thus in ten years they produce three green, and six corn, crops. It is manured once in three years, but the quantity applied is very small. The Hanoverian morgen of land is one hundred and twenty ruthen of sixteen feet each. Sixty-nine himpfells of corn, Hanoverian measure, make a Bremen last of ten quarters and half, or eighty-four Winchester bushels ; consequently, the himpfell is about seven-eighths of our bushel ; the morgen of land is about eight-elevenths of an English acre *. The quan- tity of seed sown is two himpfells of wheat and rye, and three * The legal measure of corn somewhat differs from the local ; the latter is the larger of the two, and is here meant. Ci2 ] 20 han6\^r1 of oats, to the morgen. The average produce of rye, the most uniform as Avell as most important crop, is eighteen himpfells to the morgen, or twenty-two bushels to our acre. The Amtman, to whom I was introduced by a letter from a relation in London, received me with much cordiality ; and as soon as he had despatched his magisterial business, and the numerous suitors that waited, attended me round his domain, entered into every detail I could desire, introduced me to another similar establishment, and pressed me to stay till the next day, with an obvious sincerity that I could not have re- sisted, but for an engagement which compelled me to return to the city. I was shown by this gentleman, a species of turnip resembling the Swedish, but much larger and harder, and with abundant leaves. I had taken them for the ruta baga as I passed along the road. They are known here, as in other parts of Germany, where I afterwards saw them, by the name of the cabbage turnip kohl-riibe. I believe Mr. Beevor attempted many years ago to introduce this root into Norfolk, but I think unsuc- cessfully. The patches of this plant which I saw, were very small, and rather cultivated upon the plan of garden than field husbandry. This land is admirably calculated for the turnip culture ; and upon our four course Norfolk system, with good flocks of sheep or other stock, would produce double the quan- tity of food that it does in the present mode of cultivation. '^'The amts, or manorial domains, that I visited, are the property of the king ; but many similar ones belong to individual noble- men, whose chief tenant, like the king's, is dignified with the title of Amtman. They are a kind of farmers of the manorial rights, which, though frequently varying in extent and character, are of considerable latitude. Formerly tliey included the per- sonal slavery of ihc bauers or peasants who held under the lord. HANOVER. 121 Jiccording to the custom of the amt. Personal slavery is how- ever, now universally abolished; but the rights to feed their cattle, to limited labour, and to many other privileges, whichj^; in the grant of land to the tenants, the lords retained to them- selves, still exist ; and is the grant made to the Amtnian, who usually occupies the large house and premises. The demesne land, sometimes a very extensive tract, is also in his hands, and, in some instances, furnish examples of superior hus- bandry, and new inventions or improvements, to the pea- sants under his influence. The influence of this officer is considerable, as he is usually the chief magistrate of an ex-.^ tensive district. The royal amts have by habit, rathejf, than by any law, been considered as hereditary possessions ; but of late, on the death of the Amtman, they have been granted, either to obtain increased rent, or for purposes of patronage and favouritism, to other persons. The peasants under this officer have usually only small portions of land, often at a distance from their houses, and generally scattered- about in a common field. I visited another establishment at Calenburg, where the amt is held by the widow of the late grantee. This lady was well bred and intelligent, and was personally conversing, with much discrimination and acuteness, witii the directors of the different operations that were conducted on the extensive premises under her control. The demesne, held with this amt, is about one thousand morgens of arable land, for which ten ploughs were in activity ; some worked by horses, others by oxen, who labour from eight to ten hours each day. The working cattle were in good order. The stalls, in wiiich the breeding and fatting cattle were placed, were kept clean. The cows were very fine, . (especially some of the Tyjol ^fjepdj the. m^fi 132 HANOVER. compact, strait-backed, and round built animals I had ever seen, and a mixture of which would be an improvement to our admired Devonshire breed. One of the bulls was a remark- ably fine creature. The houses in which the cattle are kept, are well contrived for the purposes of feeding and watering them, and of removing their dung. The only stock, not toler- able good, were the sheep, to wliich it appeared to me that but little attention is paid. The people here seem to have no just idea of the value of sheep in improving the land ; perhaps, the nature of the tenures operates as an impediment to the most advantageous and extensive application of them to that purpose. The whole produce of the harvest is secured, not, as with us, on stack frames, but in enormous barns. The mows are in the middle of the barns ; and on both sides, between it and the walls, are the thrashing-floors, on which the men walk backward in line, beating out the corn, with flails similar in shape to those of Westphalia, but with the beating part square instead of round. The wheat that I saw thrashing was of the red kind, with w hite chaft', and rather a coarse grain : the men complained that it did not yield well in proportion to the quantity of sheaves. Besides what properly belongs to cultivation, this establish- ment has the appendages of a large brewery and a considerable distillery, from the grains furnished by both of which many fine pigs are maintained. The square, enclosed with gates, and containing a large pond of water in the centre, including the extensive dwellii;g of the Amtman, or rather, now, Amtfrau, is a mass of building of vast dimensions. It may not be disproportionate to the size of the farm in this country, where building materials are cheap, and HANOVER. 123 the labour oi' bringing them is tlie duty of the feudal tenants ; but, in England, the same extent of building, if as substantially constructed as all these erections are, would cost a sum, the interest on which would very far exceed any rent that could be afforded for the whole farm, homestead, and feudal rights. The meadow lands, on the banks of the river, which turns a mill belonging to the amt, were tolerably good, but the great drought of the summer had given them a bare appearance. The banks of the stream were planted with a triple row of willow trees, whose branches being cut every third year, pro- duce a better nett revenue than any other part of this extensive establishment. The houses of the peasantry that surrounded these establish- ments are numerous, and larger than houses are usually seen in England, for the same rank of inhabitants. Some flax grown near them seemed to furnish occupation now that their autumnal seed-time was over. The flax stalks were laid out after being watered, and in many instances I observed the people beating them with a flat grooved board, to which a handle was affixed diagonally, so as to resemble an English scrubbing brush. The high reputation of Amtman Meyer, who resides about eight miles from Hanover, induced me to visit his establishment, where I was not so fortunate as to meet the proprietor, who had been described to me as the most scientific agriculturist in the vicinity. His amt was still more extensive than that of Calen- burg, and included within the area, besides his dwelling, and those of the superintendents of his farm and the barns, stables, sheep-house and cattle-stalls, a very neat church. The land round this establishment, shows more abundant marks of good 124 HANOVER. cultivation, and more proofs of the liberal application of manure, than I had before witnessed in Hanover. o'. The kohl-r'uben had attained a good size, and were flourish- ing, whilst a considerable breadth of mangel-wurzel was grow- ing ; but both of these crops appeared to me not sufficiently hoed to give the roots space to extend to the dimensions which they would attain by a diff'erent mode of culture. 1 observed here, the first stack of clover- hay that had met my sight since I entered Germany. Around the borders of some fields were small patches of tobacco, such as I had indeed before noticed in the course of my rides. I was told the quality of it was bad, and too weak for any but boys to smoke it. They seem to learn this abominable practice at a very early age. I was surprised one day, by being asked by a shepherd boy, of whom I had made some inquiry, and who appeared not more than twelve years of age, if I could give him any fire, or the ma- terials for supplying him with it, as he had lost either his flint or his steel, and could not light his pipe. Contrary to the usual course in such establishments, the cows here are farmed to a Dutch dairy-man, who professes to make butter and cheese of the same kind as is produced in Holland. The cows, from ninety to one hundred, are let to him for one thousand rix dollars annually. In the summer months they are depastured on the meadow lands, by the side of the river. In the winter, they are allowed ten pounds of hay, and fourteen pounds of straw, daily. I heard sad lamentations on the dryness of the present summer, of the want of food on the meadows, and the consequent scarcity and poverty of the milk. The contrivances of the Dutchman to save labour, were very admirable. The milk and cream were in a cool cellar, the butter was churned by a very simple machine worked by a wheel, in the apartment at the to^ of the house ; this was turned by a boy, and by it one hundred pounds of butter were at some seasons made daily, in about two hours. The presses for the cheese were worked by the same jnachine which churned the butter. oj iiinai ■ The attempt to make various kinds of clieese from the same land is necessarily futile. Cheese denominated Swiss, Dutch, Cheshire and Gloucester, is made by this man. I tasted each, but could perceive no similarity to those of either of the districts by the names of which they were distinguished, nor any great diflerence betwixt one and another ; for all, if not absolutely bad, were at least very indifferent. As I had formerly visited Zell, Luneburg, and the other northern divisions of Hanover, I resolved to pass by the new road through Hildesheim to Brunswick. The first part of the country was poor, the soil thin, the villages dirty and decaying, and no crops appeared to have been raised, or to be growing, except rye. In advancing, the land improved gradually, till on approaching to Hildesheim, some good water-meadows, with willow trees, and some productive wheat stubbles, were to be seen. The farms were large, but the whole country open and destitute of trees. The cultivation is conducted on the faulty three course rotation, which has been before noticed,' to within seven miles of the city, where a four course system is practised, by growing beans after the fallow crop before the wheat or rye. The city of Hildesheim is divided into the old and new town. The former is ill built, miserably paved, and seems very poor and dirty. The latter, though certainly much better, is still a dismal looking place. Its population in 1816 amounted to 126 HANOVER. 10,649 persons, of whom 6,624 were Lutherans, 3,951 Catholics, twenty-nine Calvinists, and 345 Jews *. The catholic bishop of the diocese resides here, and has a cathedral, and three other churches under it. There are three Lutheran churches, a gymnasium for the education of catholics, several hospitals, a house of industry, and an orphan-house, in which are four hundred children. These are ancient institutions, and, according to the state of the country, and the mode of living of the inhabitants, are well endowed. The city is the seat of several provincial courts of justice, the authority of one of which extends over the forests in this province. The principal manufactures of Hildesheim are linen and woollen cloth, leather, iron- mongery, snuff' and tobacco, soap, and, made from a spring near the city, Glauber salts. ,, Beyond Hildesheim the land improves, much wheat is sown instead of rye ; on the right hand are fine meadows, and beyond them an extensive plain, bounded by a well-wooded line of distant hills, which rise above each other ; and in the back ground, the Rammelsberg, one of the mountains of the Hartz forest, towered above them. We soon entered the territory of Brunswick. As Hanover, since it has been erected into a kingdom, has been increased in extent, and otherwise much changed, a short account of its present state may not be deemed irrelevant. The various provinces that have been added to it are so remote from each other, that it forms a very irregular figure ; and one considerable province, Osnabriick, can only be arrived at by passing through the territories of some other sovereign. * Besclucibimg des Kcinigreich's Hannover, von Sonue, 1817. HANOVER. 127 The whole extent of the kingdom at present is 14,835 square English miles, or 9»494,400 acres *. The inhabitants, by the census of 1816, amounted to 1,325,000 persons. In that year the marriages were 13,786, the births 50,257, and the deaths 31,264. The division of religious sects is, 1,050,000 Lutherans, 160,000 Catholics, 90,000 Reformed or Calvinists, and the remainder consists of Mennonites, Moravians, and Jews. The government of Hanover is a monarchy, but since the convention of 1815, is so connected with the other states of Germany, that it can scarcely be considered independent of them. Though permanently united under the same head as the British kingdoms, the two countries are as distinct from each other as though they were under different sovereigns. No British subject has any more rights in Hanover than another foreigner ; and though by Buonaparte it was disre- garded, yet the hostilities in which England may be engaged, have not necessarily, nor have they usually, involved Hanover. The king unites in himself every branch of executive power. In legislating, and in the regulation of the finances, the Assem- bly of the States unite with the monarch ; but the limits of the power of each is undefined, and would in a great kingdom, if unconnected with the Germanic body, lead to controversies, and perhaps struggles, of a very serious nature. The compo- sition of the States, and their mode of electing their representa- tives is a very complex affair, differing in different provinces, and regulated by ancient usages. The assembly at present con- sists of one hundred and one deputies, of whom ten are chosen for, but not by, the clergy ; forty-nine by the landed proprietors (rittcrs), and forty-two by the corporations of the cities. These * Sonne. R 2 J28 HANOVER. deputies form but one body, and have very feeble, if any, in- quisitorial power to check malversation. The representative of the monarch exercises supreme power in his name, maintains a small court household, resides in the royal palace, and draws from the public treasury an income of thirty-six thousand rix-dollars, or about five thousand five hun- dred pounds per annum. He is assisted by various ministers, forming a cabinet, and a privy council, one of the members of which resides constantly in London, to communicate with the sovereign and receive his instructions. The inferior branches of the judicial power are variously exercised. In some instances, the magistrates are appoint- ed by proprietors of certain estates, who have enjoyed the right from the most remote periods ; in other instances by the corporate bodies of the cities, and in many by the king, but rather as the proprietor of some amt or bailiwick than as the sovereign. Appeals may be made from these local jurisdictions to a superior court in Zell. What is usually known on the Con- tinent by the name of the high police, does not exist in Hanover. The liberty of the press is far from perfect, and all works must be examined before publication ; but the censors are very liberal to authors, there is no prohibition against bringing in books printed in other states, as is the case in some other countries. The finances of the kingdom are not exposed to the public view. The income is supposed to amount to twelve million guldens, or about one million one hundred and fifty thousand pounds sterling. This is derived from direct and indirect taxes, in some measure, and a very considerable part of it from the hereditary possessions of the monarcli, who is the greatest land-owner in his dominions, and draws a large HANOVER. 129 *' (,■ revenue from it, which is classed under the heads of Domains and Royalties; but the amount is unknown to the public. ""'^■ The regular army of Hanover on the present peace esta- blishment, consists of Artillery and Engineers 3,315 Infantry, ten battalions 6,300 Cavalry, eight regiments 4,840 Jagers ^00 Country-dragoons (or Gens d'armes) ... 212 Invalids . l60 Staff 13 12,940 Besides the regulars, there is kept up an organized force of militia (Landwehr) of thirty battalions, amounting together to about 18,000 men. The troops are fine looking men, and some of the corps are remarkably well dressed and drilled. The established church is regulated by consistories, which hold their assemblies in Hanover, Stade, Osnabriick, Aurich, Hildesheim and Hohnstein. In the consistory of Aurich, the Calvinists are mixed with the Lutherans. The Catholics have three bishops in this kingdom at Osnabruck, Hildesheim and Agersburg, and some parts are under the spiritual jurisdiction of the Bishop of Munster. The Lutheran clergy, atleastinthe villages, are very attentive to the comforts and the instruction of the poorer classes. The stipends are small, but they have houses and glebe land ; and the fees at baptisms, funerals, and marriages are higher, considering the relative value of money, than in England. 130 HANOVER. They are generally well educated ; after acquiring classical knowledge at a grammar-school, they must pass three years at a university, two of which must be at Gottingen. Most of the livings are effectively in the gift of the crown, but are usually disposed of by the consistory according to seniority of applica- tion ; but this rule is dispensed with in favour of those who have distinguished themselves in the University examinations. Any young man who has thus displayed talent, is sure to get an early living, either from the consistory or sometimes from a private patron. When a clergyman is appointed to a living, he must remain in it seven years, before he can prefer a request to the con- sistory for removal to a better. If he then applies, he must undergo an examination of a rigid kind, to ascertain if he has advanced or declined in knowledge, since his former induc- tion. If he is found to have retrograded he has no chance of promotion. The want of a liturgy, as well as the difficulty of composing and introducing one that would be generally approved, is felt by the clergy. They complain that the devotional services are criticised, rather than joined in with due reverence. The exhortations delivered at baptisms, funerals, and marriages, are the composition of the individual who officiates ; and after such services, the conversation of even the peasants is rather turned to the skill or to the want of it in the pastor, than to that improvement of them which such services ought to produce. With us the constant use of the same service may tend to beget formality and inattention, but is seldom or ever the subject of rural criticism. The tendency to exercise an incom- petent judgment on the talents of the pastor, is directly opposite to that teachable disposition, from which the peasantry HANOVER. 131 of a country are likely to be benefited. Though the inhabitants have a kind of voice in the nomination of pastors, yet it is but seldom exercised in the country. In some instances the patron has the power of nominating three persons, from whom the parishioners select one. In the cities this leads often to de- grading- practices. The corporation, who are often the patrons after trials, select three men, who must then proceed to canvass, by themselves or their friends, the whole of the parishioners, on whose vote the choice ultimately depends. The stipends of the clergy are so nearly equal, and all so small, that young men of the best families are never destined to the sacred profession ; hence the whole body have not that es- timation in the scale of society which can give them weight with the higher classes. Were there gradations in the body, so that some of them could be considered equal to the highest subjects, even the lowest of the profession would become elevated by feeling, and having it felt by others, that the road was open for them to the most exalted stations. The whole mass of clergy would be, as they are in England, a body more respected by the community in general ; would associate more than the Hanoverian clergy do with the nobility and gentry, and not, like them, be obliged to mix almost exclusively with the middle or lower ranks. The effect of this want of dig- nity in the clerical body is visible in the churches, which, though crowded with the lower classes of the people, are not visited very regularly by the higher ranks. The admirable example of the Duke of Cambridge has done what example alone could do, to induce a more regular attendance on public worship among the nobility and gentry of the capital. The appearance, however, of the congregations is very different ftom that of those in England, especially in London, where 132 HANOVER. they seem to be composed, perhaps too exclusively, of the supe- rior ranks. -Of Learning in this kingdom is generally diffused ; besides the Lyceums, which may be considered as a higher order of grammar schools, and the catholic institutions for the edu- cation of their clergy, the university of Gottingen, whose celebrity is generally established, contains about twelve hundred students, who usually spend three years there, to qualify themselves for the clerical, legal, or medical profes- sions, or for the other stations in active life in which learning is deemed to be requisite, jjj': Hanover is divided into the following provinces : Principality of Kalenbuig Gottingen Grubenhagen Luneburg County of Hoya, with Diepholz Province of Bremen . . Osnabriick Hildesheim East Friesland Bentheim Holinstein Inhabitants. Extent in English acres. Capitals. ' ' 139,222 680,960 Hanover. 96,593 440,320 Gottingen. 80,300 330,240 Eimbeck. 252,450 2,794,240 Luneburg. 104,970 908,160 Nienburg. 191,060 1,720,320 Stade. 188,655 1,169,930 Osnabriick. 121,816 426,880 Hildesheim. 127,522 721,920 Emden. 24,364 182,620 Bentheim. 6,680 33,200 Ilefeld. The difference in the extent of land betwixt the table here exhibited, and that in page 127, arises from the rivers being included in that measurement, and omitted in the division into provinces. The tiircc great rivers that are accessible to Hanover, that HANOVER. 13.3 either bound it or pass through it, would be liigiily beneficial to commerce, if the productions of the country, or of the districts beyond it, were sufficient to supply matter for any con- siderable traffic. These three rivers, the Elbe, the Weser, and the Ems, furnish the means of easy communication with the ocean, but are availed of to a very trifling extent by the inhabitants of the kingdom. The lower part of Kalenburg, and the provinces of Hil- desheim, Gottingen and Grubenhagen, are rather mountainous ; but the rest of the kingdom is one level plain of land, only diversified by a few sand-hills, that occasionally present them- selves. In this large tract, the soil on the banks of the rivers receives much cultivation, and the intervals between only produce wild flowers, on which bees are reared, and furnish honey and wax for exterior trade. About three-fifths of the Hartz forest, the mineral district of northern Germany, is within this kingdom, and the productions raised in that portion of it amount in value annually to about 2,050,000 rix-dollars, or three hundred thousand pounds sterling. The gold, silver, copper, lead, zinc, vitriol, and sulphur, amount to about three quarters of that sum ; and the remainder is principally made up by salt, with a small quantity of fossil coal. It is difficult to make an estimate, with any tolerable approach to correctness, of tjie quantity of vegetable food produced in any kingdom, and I do not know that the attempt has been made in Hanover. The amount of live stock has, however been ascertained and made public. In 1812, there were in the kingdom, before it was increased by the addition of the small districts of Lingen, Meppen, Emsbuhren, and Artlenburg, (which together are about 600,000 acres, and contain 58,000 134 HANOVER. inhabitants), the following number of cattle* : 224,500 horses, 675,926" head of horned cattle, 1,540,794 sheep and lambs, 15,728 goats and kids, 176,974 swine, and 1,498 asses and mules. The surplus productions of Hanover are very trifling in amount; the only articles sent beyond the limits of Germany are sometimes oats and beans, but these not every year, bees' wax, honey, feathers, flax, linen and linen yarn, linen rags, rape- seed, oak bark, a little vitriol, lead, copper, and sulphur. The imports which reach them, either by way of Bremen, Embden, or Hamburg, are tea, coffee, sugar, wine, dyeing drugs, woollen and cotton cloths, and numerous smaller articles, which the luxurious of the capital require. When Hanover was given as a province to Prussia, its prosperity was checked by being made subservient to the financial and recruiting projects of that power. Many of the young men repaired to England, and joined that Legion which so much distinguished itself in the Spanish campaigns. Under Jerome Buonaparte, who fixed the seat of his government at Cassel, it was first plundered, and then taxed without mercy. When smarting with the sufferings thus inflicted, the return of the ancient dynasty was hailed with unfeigned delight, and the assembling of the States, under a free constitution, was looked to as the pledge of measures which none of the governments on the Continent have been able to realize. TJie expenses that had been incurred, and the debts that had been contracted, by driving away the French family, and the addition made to them by the efforts which the return of Buonaparte from Elba called forth, amounted to a large sum. Sonne. HANOVER. 135 and required to be provided for by weighty taxation. This has naturally created great discontents. The most uninformed of the people, who were certainly eager for the restoration of the ancient dynasty, expected on their return not an increase, but a diminution, of the imposts. Whilst one part of the inhabitants complain of the taxes, and of the military establishment to which it is owing, the nobility, who look to the army as a profession for some mem- bers of their families, complain of too great a reduction of the forces ; or rather, that skeleton regiments are not kept up, in preference to regiments with a full complement of men as well as officers. There is, I think, a general tendency to speculate in politics, in an abstract way, and to express wishes for what they call reforms ; but it goes no farther than discussion, seldom rises to debate, and as no improper means are suffered to be used to inflame the lower orders, their political feelings have never led to threats of violence, or to the assembling of mobs. That many improvements may be made, and especially those which would give more activity to its agriculture, cannot be doubted ; but in arranging the details of every change, there are so many interests that are entitled to protection, and so many rights that must be respected, that the progress of reform, in order to be beneficial, must be gradual and tardy. S 2 BRUNSWICK. BRUNSWICK. 1 HE entrance to the duchy of Brunswick from Hanover, begins with an excellent soil and good cultivation, and as I drew nearer the capital, it gradually improved in appearance. The land suddenly changed to a lime-stone basis, on which rested a good sandy, and in some places a good clayey, loam. On the former, though well manured, the same rotation which I had remarked in the former part of my journey, is pursued ; on the other, both beans and wheat are grown. The stubbles from which the latter had been harvested, showed that the crop of straw at least was very good ; I was, however, told that what was threshed, yielded but slightly. Near the city were several fields of turnips, but not hoed, and consequently with very small roots. The extent of the kohl-riiben was considerable ; they were cultivated in the garden manner, had been earthed up, so that each root had its own little hillock, and they had attained a large size. The peasants were very diligently pulling them up, and carting them to the barns to be stacked as winter provision for the cattle. At almost every house I entered, I was pleased to see the pictures of their late Duke, of the Duke of Wellington, and of BlUcher; and many articles of their furniture were adorned with gilded busts of the same heroes. The entrance and tlie environs of the city of Brunswick, appeared to be much improved since I last visited it. The 140 BRUNSWICK. streets are better paved and lighted; the houses, within and without, are both neater and in better preservation ; and the dress and manners of the inhabitants, seemed to have kept equal pace. The practice of smoking tobacco, which was formerly very annoying, is much abridged. In good com- pany here, as well as in Hanover, I never saw it in private houses ; and in the coffee-houses it is certainly far less used. The market-place, a large square, has a fine effect ; and two other open squares, the Grauehofs-platz and the Burg-platz, are not without some share of beauty. The palace of the duke, called the Graue-hof, has nothing but its extent to recommend it; and the old palace, called the Most-hof, which was the residence of the court formerly, is now converted into barracks. The churches are large, if not beautiful ; one of them, St. Andrews, has a tower 320 feet high, from the top of which the prospect over the surrounding country is very fine. The church of St. Nicholas, belonging to the catholics, is the most ornamented. The public institutions for education are numerous, and consist of an Anatomical and Surgical College, with five professors ; a Gymnasium with ten, and another with twelve; a Lyceum with nineteen professors; besides an Orphan-house school, a Military School of Industry, sixteen elementary and six other charity schools. In the arsenal is a picture-gallery and a cabinet of natural history, which are open to public inspection and use. In Brunswick, several manufactories are conducted, but most of them on a small scale. The linen weavers, dyers and glovers, arc the most considerable, next to brewers. There arc as many as eighty or ninety brewers of beer, mum, and of vinegar, and no less than thirty-two distillers of ardent spirits from corn. The wealth of the city is much increased by two great fairs that are held BRUNSWICK. ]4] in it, which traders from all parts of Germany attend, and tlie transactions there are very considerable. This city is both a cheap and a pleasant residence, and several English families have taken up their temporary abodesf in it since the peace. There is a theatre, a concert room, a Vauxhall, and public walks in the garden of the palace, and on what were formerly the fortifications ; these, and the circulating libraries and reading-rooms, furnish variety of amusements. The number of inhabitants in Brunswick, in 1813, were 29,050*, of whom 28,332 was Lutherans, 583 Reformed, 850 Catholics, 392 Jews, and 93 Moravians. They are sup^ posed to have increased since that period, and are now es- timated to be 32,000. The births were 1,071, the deaths 968, and the marriages 252, in the year 1812. On leaving the city of Brunswick, the whole road for the two first hours, was crowded with waggons laden with the productions of the country, in their way to that place where their contents were to be discharged ; and the surplus conveyed by barges to the port of Bremen. The principal exported commodity is corn, and the annual value, on an average of years, is about 400,000 rix-dollars. Rape-seed, linseed, seed-oil, and oil-cake, madder, hops, and honey, with linen and linen-yarn, form, however, material parts of the exports. The whole way from Brunswick to Bornum, the soil is a clayey loam, but easily worked, and rests on a bed of lime-stone, which makes excellent roads. This land is gene- rally cultivated by a winter fallow, followed by a crop of beans, pease or flax ; then wheat, or sometimes rye, is sown. * Abriss des herzogthmns Braunschweig, von G. Bellguth 1819. . 142 BRUNSWICK. The manure is placed on it before the fallow crop, and the soil is thus improved every third year. The quantity of wheat far exceeded that of rye. This lime-stone bottom land, is admirably calculated for the growth of sainfoin. I have, however, seen none of it yet in Germany, nor was the name of it ( Esparsette) known to any peasant or farmer with whom I have conversed. The deficiency of capital, and the feudal tenures, prevent the keeping so much live stock as is main- tained in England ; and hence there is not the same necessity felt for the cultivation of the artificial grasses. The number of sheep was more considerable than I had seen in Hanover, many of them were of the Merino breed, and others a mixture of Merinos ; and some flocks were of the same long-woolled kind I had previously observed. Before reaching Konigslutter, we passed over the field of the celebrated battle which was fought during the thirty year's war. This place, though called a city, has only 2,493 in- habitants. Its appearance is poor, but I was informed that there were several manufactories for linen, some breweries, and nine distilleries for making ardent spirits from grain. From being near the end of the lime-stone district, it has con- siderable trade in burning lime, for the other parts of the country where that kind of stone is not found. There are two churches, both large : one of them contains the mauso- leum of the Emperor Lothario II., and his consort, and a monument to the memory of Hcinrich, a duke of Bavaria. The post-house was just without the city, at a large ducal amt or farm. The amtman was civil and intelligent, though his reports were not statistical. He estimated that the average increase of all the corn in tlic surrounding district, did not exceed five hempfells for one that was sown. The measure of land here, again varies ; BRUNSWICK. J 43 the morgen is one hundred and twenty rods, of sixteen feet each for arable land, and one hundred and sixty rods for wood-land ; and though this is the established measure for the whole of the duke's dominions, yet there are minor variations in many districts ; but as the peasantry are all acquainted with the standard as well as the local measurement, there is no difficulty in reducing the one to the other. Whilst waiting for horses the allotted hour, which was almost extended to two, I watched some men thrashing wheat in the large barn, which formed one side of the extensive pile of building. The sheaves, with the bands unopened, were laid in two rows on the floor, with their butts towards each other. The men went round them backwards, and with the square beater before noticed, gave their blows only on the heads of the sheaves, which when thus beaten, were laid in a heap together. When the heap grew large, the sheaves were taken from it, opened and laid on the floor ; when the men again with a backward step, gave their blows only on the middle of the sheaves. It seemed both a tedious and ex- pensive operation, but certainly the corn was completely got out, and the straw very little broken ; which last circumstance is deemed of some importance in a country where straw forms the most important winter fodder for the cattle. A short ascent after leaving Konigslutter, brought us to a district of stone brash-land, exactly resembling the soil on the Cotswold hills in Gloucestershire. Like that portion of England, it is well adapted for producing pease, which are cultivated here to a very considerable extent, and for raising sainfoin, which is no where to be seen. The flocks of sheep were not large nor near to each other ; some were the Merinos, and others of the long wool kind. T a 144 BRUNSWICK. We reached Helmstadt where, as at Konigslutter, the post- house was at another but much larger ducal amt. The barns, though of vast extent, were insufficient to contain the corn, great part of which was in stacks of an unusual form ; the tliatch descended to within a foot and half of the ground, was laid on loose, neither damped nor secured by spars. I have remarked, generally, a great attention to economy in the use of straw in every part that I have passed. Helmstadt is the capital of a district, the seat of a superin- tendent or bishop, and of some provincial courts of justice. When I visited it before, the walls were standing, the scite of which have been since converted into a good public walk. It had then a University, which is now broken up from economical motives, and a grammar-school is conducted in the same build- ing. Though the walls are demolished, the four gates are still remaining. It contains 5,259 inhabitants, most of whom depend on agriculture, but some of them conduct manufac- tories of flannel, leather, soap, hats, and distilleries. In the vicinity of the city some coal-mines are worked, but not to any great extent as wood is abundant, and the inhabitants are generally prejudiced against the use of coal for fuel. The district I have passed through, from the city of Bruns- wick to the termination of the dukedom, had been seduced during the continental system, into the cultivation of tobacco and of some roots for making sugar. The distress occasioned to those who had engaged in such operations, was great when the peace took place ; but the effects are now passed over, and the suiferers cease to complain of their losses. They say, however, that their corn can only be sold at a loss ; and unlike the Hano- verian farmers, the price is a matter of great importance, because they do not consume all they grow, but furnish a BRUNSWICK. 145 surplus for distant markets. I found every where a degree of anxious curiosity to know the state of the hite harvest in England ; and was frequently told, that the profits of their- agriculture almost wholly depended on the opening of out; ports, which regulated the price for which their surplus corn could be sold. ''^ -i^ ^ '' The symptoms of improvement were very visible, through the whole of the Duke of Brunswick's dominions ; I do not mean, solely in comparison with what was their state when I first saw them twenty-two years ago, but with what their condition must have been six or seven years back. The number of new liouses, new barns and out-houses, not older than the latest period, was considerable, and the recent enclosures and plantations gave other indications of prosperity. Much of this may be imputable to the soil which is in general very prolific, but much must be owing to the good government of that duke, who died of the wounds received at the battle of Jena ; and much to the administration formed by our present King, who is guardian during the minority of the duke. The diminution of the military force, the absence of a court, and the judicious arrangement of the finances, give good reasons to expect that the heavy debts of the state, will be all liquidated before the minor is of age to assume the government. The duchy of Brunswick is divided into two cities, and six districts. City of Brunswick Of Wolfenbuttle . . District of Wolfenbuttle Inhftbitants. English acres. Capitals. •29,050 6,800 56,593 291,840 Wolfenbuttle. 146 BRUNSWICK. District of Schoningen District of Hartz . . District of the Line . . District of the Weser . District of Blankenburg Inhabitants. English acres. Capitals. 32,880 189,160 Helms tad t. 19,841 133,760 Langelsheim. 15,748 60,800 Gandersheim. 31,468 161,280 Stadtoldendorf. 16,317 92,140 Blankenburg. 208,697 928,980 In the duchy is also included three sevenths of a portion of the country under the Hartz forest, a mining district, the remainder of which belongs to Hanover. The administration is in common. It also possesses the same share of some salt works with Hanover. The Duke of Brunswick has a private property in Silesia, in the Prussian dominions, from which the late duke derived that title of Brunwick Oels, by which he was known after that gallant march, which with his own corps only, he made across the whole of Germany, to embark at Bremen. His duchy of Oels has indeed no connexion with the govern- ment of Brunswick. It contains 308,800 acres, has within it nine towns, three hundred thirty-four villages, and 87,800 inhabitants*. The revenue is estimated at 150,000 dollars, but it was deeply involved in debt, which the present minority has in some degree lightened. The division of the land, according to a recent survey and measurement, is as follows : ACRES. Under the plough 291,575 Gardens, and land under garden culture 16",752 Meadows 42,049 Handbuch der neusten erdebeschreibung von Hassel, vol. 5., 1819. BRUNSWICK. 147 ACRE5. Pasture land 207,751 Woods and plantations 284,423 Fish-ponds and lakes 2,217 The rest of the surface is occupied by the courses of the various rivers, by roads, by cities, towns, and villages. The value of this land has been estimated at 56,012,844 dollars, or about 8,250,000 pounds sterling, or ten pounds the acre. The stock of live cattle, in 1812, was 50,300 horses and colts, 86,400 head of bulls, cows, calves, and oxen, 258,965 sheep and lambs, 8,291 goats, 46,408 swine, and ll6 asses and mules. At the same period, there were in the duchy 8,450 hives of bees. At that time, the number of Merino sheep amounted only to 29,550, but since that period they have much in- creased, and have been so crossed with the other races, that at present it is supposed half the sheep in the duchy are either pure Merinos, or partake in a considerable degree of the blood of that race. The chief productions, of which Brunswick furnishes a surplus beyond its own consumption, are wheat and rye, fine wool, fine linen and linen yarn ; these are estimated to amount annually, to 1,700,000 rix-dollars ; the other exports, which are calculated at 800,000 dollars, consist of rape seed, rape oil and oil cake, of hops, madder, vitriol, sulphur, arsenic, zinc, cobalt, and some minuter articles. The whole commerce passes through the free cities of Hamburg or Bremen, and pays for those few foreign luxuries that the inhabitants require ; the principal of which are wine, sugar, coft'ee and tea. Brunswick is favourably situated for the passage of goods to the great fairs of Leipsic, as by going through it they escape the Prussian dominions, where many ]48 BRUNSWICK. vexatious regulations are impediments to the transitu trade. A great share of that trade, therefore, passes though the duchy, and yields a considerable profit to it. The military establishment of Brunswick is low, the regular troops are not more than 1,400, though as a member of the Germanic body, the dukedom is bound to maintain two thousand. The militia, however are kept in such a state as to be ready for active service, on a very short notice. The finances of Brunswick were much deranged by debts incurred before the year 1807, when the country fell into the hands of France ; but from that period to the restoration of the ancient family, this increase became most rapid ; as during Jerome's government, whatever the taxes or the estates produced was principally remitted to Paris, and the debts of the province suffered to accumulate. When the late duke returned to his capital, the spirit he displayed was far from economical ; and when the return from Elba caused the resumption of arms, he strained his credit to its utmost extent, to augment his forces. During the short interval between his return and the resumption of hostilities, he issued decrees which have laid the foundation of a better system than before prevailed. The nobles, burghers, and peasants, were placed on the same footing with regard to taxation, and those feudal estates, which could only previously be held by such as were of noble birth, were permitted to be purchased by any one, except Jews, whatever their rank might be. The present income of tlie duchy is estimated at 2,500,000 dollars, or about 380,000 pounds; not one half of this, however, arises from taxation, but from the patrimonial domains of the sovereign, who is by far the largest land owner in his domi- nions. When Jerome Buonaparte was king, the domains BRUNSWICK. 149 yielded 5,004,630, and the taxes only 2,257,240, francs. The proportion is now altered by an increase of taxation, but the revenue from the patrimonial estates still continues the greatest branch. The debt in the year 1815, was 6,546,805 dollars, or about 1,000,000 pounds sterling; since that period, consider- able sums have been paid. The army has been reduced, the university of Helmstadt abolished, some other endowed esta- blishments converted to secular purposes, and a general system of economy established ; so that an expectation is generally indulged among the inhabitants, that before the present duke, who was born in 1804, comes of age, the state will be perfectly free from all embarrassment. The established church, the Lutheran, is under the control of the consistory, and is regulated by seven superintendants, or bishops, under whom are two hundred and thirty-eight pastors, serving three hundred and ninety-eight churches and chapels. The whole revenue of the church in 1812, was 232,320 dollars; of this sum the stipends of the pastors amounted to 130,000 ; of the schoolmasters, to 36,000 ; and the remainder was applied to to the other ecclesiastics. The stipends of the parochial preachers do not average more than ninety pounds a year, but their fees on baptisms, burials, and marriages, are higher than in England. u PRUSSIA. PRUSSIA. After quittlnir Helmstadi. wo left behind us lliat tract of country, in which all the inhabitants of villages, and the lower classes in the cities, speak only the Plat-Deutsclir. a dialect of the German which prevails through Westphalia and Lower Saxony, and extends itself along the shores of the Baltic, to the confines of Poland. A traveller who speaks the high German language, will, however, find no difticulty in making himself understood, and not much in understanding the peasants. In all the States, the high German language is taught in the parochial schools; and in the protostant countries the catechetical instructions, and the services of the churches are conducted in the same tongue, so (hat though they seldom use it. few are totally ignorant o\' it. On quitting Hclmstadt. the P/at-Deutsche entirely ceased, but it was succeeded among the peasantry, by a Uohe-Deutsch<\ scarcely approaching nearer to the language spoken in the best informed, and politest societies. At the entrance of the Prussian dominions, "we first reached Alvensleben, a large village or market town, containing ^^X) inhabitants. The place gives a title to a count, who has here an enormously extensive castle, and another house inhabited by a relation, who manages his large estates aroinid it. The land is well cultivated, except that the turnips which covered a consi- derable extent of groiuid. were too thick, and consequently with roots of a very small size. The country is well stocked j2^ PRUSSIA. with game, which the count sedulously preserves. We re- marked many hares and partridges as we passed through the estate. There are many very extensive plantations of firs, newly formed, and the property has a considerable quantity of ancient wood-land belonging to it. The soil is a dark sandy loam, with a mixture of clay, and the whole of the land up to the gates of Magdeburg, is well cultivated. The ploughing was well executed by two horses, except near the city, where, the soil beino- heavier, four are necessary ; the number of cattle being considerable, it is well manured, and though under the rotation of flax or pease, as a fallow crop, and then either wheat or rye, followed by barley or oats, yields fair returns. This district is indeed considered as the wheat granary for the Prussian States to the eastward of the Oder. It is estimated that the portion called the Stadt-kreis, or the circle round the city of Mag- deburg, consisting of 630,000 acres of land, yields a surplus beyond its own consumption of 400,000 bushels of wheat annually. It must, however, be remembered, that the far greater portion of the inhabitants eat only rye bread, and that many of them subsist almost wholly on potatoes. I observed, in approaching the city, that the flocks of sheep were larger, and more thickly placed than I had before seen ; and the large buildings, called Schafereien, gave it tiie appear- ance of a well-peopled country. The road from the termi- nation of the dominions of Brunswick, almost to the very gates of Magdeburg, is a deep heavy sand, in many places full of holes, and can scarcely be travelled with post horses at a greater rate than three miles an hour. The appearance of Magdeburg, on approaching, and yet more on leaving it, by the road to Berlin, is very fine. Its lofty walls, inclosing still more lofty houses and towers, have PRUSSIA. 155 a grand effect. It rises by a gentle acclivity, from the left bank of the Elbe, which is here a broad stream, but divided into two branches, over one of which a bridge leads to the citadel, which is thus on an island. The celebrity of this city, as a strongly-fortified place, is of remote anti- quity, and the dreadful massacre of the inhabitants, when taken by the ferocious Tilly, is too well known to need reca- pitulation. Its fortifications on the land side, which were dilapidated when I saw them more than twenty years ago, had been neglected up to the period when the defeat of the Prussians near Jena opened it to the French, notwithstanding some hasty repairs that had then been made. They soon saw its importance, and, by compelling the inhabitants of the country to the labour, and demanding the other expenses from the corporation, they have completed one of the most formidable fortresses in Europe. The works are very extensive, so as to include within their circuit land almost sufficient, by its produce, to support the garrison required to defend them. There are sixteen bastions, a very fine glacis, walls of great thickness, and ditches which, though dry on the side opposite the river, are all undermined. The winding entrances by the gates, through the walls, have a gloomy and almost terrific appearance. The interior of the place, like most of the old German cities, exhibits some large and antiquated houses, in one broad and long street, and around the yard of the cathedral church. The other streets, narrow and gloomy, have a very dismal appearance. It rs well paved, and lighted at nigiit with 1,100 lamps, when I thought it looked more cheerful than by day. The most remarkable building is the dom- 156 PRUSSIA. kirclie, or cathedral, a fine Gothic pile, with two towers of 340 feet in height. Neither the town houses, the governor's house, nor the other public edifices, have any thing to engage the attention, except their extent, and their tasteless archi- tecture. The public foundations for education, and the hospitals and workhouses, are numerous ; and I was told in the city, by a judicious clergymen, that they are liberally and economically conducted. if: Magdeburg is the seat of the provincial courts of law, and of the consistory of the clergy, as well as the quarters of a considerable military force, which makes, upon the whole, a tolerably good society. The inhabitants consist of 29,243 Lutherans, 2,036 Reformed, 1,359 Catholics, and 234 Jews. Besides the cathedral, the Lutherans have ten other churches, the Reformed have one Gei-man and one French church, the Catholics two, and the Jews have their synagogue. From its position on the banks of the Elbe, Magdeburg is a city both of considerable manufactures and trade, though the former scarcely extend themselves beyond the limits of the Prussian monarchy. They are favoured by either pro- hibitions or protecting duties, but, in spite of these, I heard complaints of the too easy admission of English wares. The number of persons employed in manufacturing, and in trade of various kinds, is about 3,000, including both masters and journeymen; but none of the factories are on so large a scale as to admit of a very beneficial division of labour, or of the application of the powers of water or steam to diminish labour; and hence, in spite of the cheapness of all the necessaries of life, and the economy that is practised, they are unable to compete with those who execute the same work on a larger scale. PRUSSIA. 157 The principal commodities produced in . Magdeburg are beer, corn-brandy, soap, refined sugar, linen and woollen cloth, printed calicoes, hats, hosiery, gloves, earthenware, snuff and tobacco, leather of various kinds, and some smaller articles. No very recent estimates have been made of the value of these goods, since that of the year 1812. It was then calculated that the raw materials worked here, were of the value of 1,454,264 francs, or 60,594 pounds sterling, and that the value of the manufactured goods, was 2,162,730 francs, or about 90,113 pounds. I was told that within the last seven years, the manufactories had considerably increased ; it was, however, denied by another person, and I must, therefore, leave it in doubt. The export of corn and wool to the Hanse towns, and the conveyance of the heavier commodities produced here, give some trade to the proprietors of barges on the river Elbe. The transit of goods to and from Saxony and Bohemia, afford profit to many commission houses. Some new regula- tions of the Prussian government have been found harassing by the Saxon and Bohemian growers of wool, they are much complained of, and a commission consisting of Prussian, Austrian and Saxon delegates, lately appointed, have met in Dresden to adjust the points in dispute between those powers. The barges that pass this place, or arrive at it, are numerous, and frequently three hundred at a time have been collected at the quays on the banks of the Elbe. The road from Magdeburg towards Brandenburg, is a narrow causeway, carried over some fine meadow land, which is intersected with deep ditches. This road is constructed like the approaches made in attacking a fortified place. The traverses at every turn present themselves to some of the 158 PRUSSIA. batteries by which an advancing enemy may be enfiladed. The country, by the side of the Elbe, is very generally known by the name of the golden meadows ; when I passed it the herbage was abundant, and the pastures, notwithstanding the great drought that had prevailed, might rival some of the best in Lincolnshire or Somersetshire. When we passed the village of Gerwish, the road withdrew from the river, the soil became more sandy, but it appeared good corn-land till we reached the small town or city of Burg, where in an un- comfortable inn, we passed the night. The place I was told contained 5,000 inhabitants. We left it in the morning long- before day-break, and were treated with an illumination from one of the largest, and many of the smaller, houses. I learnt there had been a wedding the preceding evening at the large house, and that the others, belonging to the relations of the new married couple, were lighted out of compliment to them. Soon after day-light we reached Genthin, a town of 1,500 inha- bitants, who are mostly employed in the brewery and distillery. The Plauensche canal, which unites the Elbe and the Havel, runs by this town, and brings some trade to it. The heavy road terminated at this place, and the new road from Bran- denburg is completed thus far, and forms a good access to the centre of Prussia, with the exception of the sandy part between Helmstadt and Genthin. This road, as a great national object, merits much observation, and is a proof among others of the great attention paid by the King of Prussia to the welfare of his states. It is both a splendid and a useful work. The whole soil is a deep sand, and most part of the surrounding district produces nothing but fir trees. Upon this sandy bed, a road is raised about three feet high with pebbles and small stones. The mass is well PRUSSIA. 159 covered with sand. Curb-stones are placed by the side, which effectually prevent the mass from expanding. On the out-sides of this road the soil is gradually sloped, till it reaches the two ditches on either hand ; thus forming, besides the chaussee in the centre, two good summer roads. As fast as the sand laid on the top of the stone road sinks down, a fresh supply is pretty thickly strewed over it ; thus, though solid and firm, it is always soft to the horses' feet. The whole is carried on a strait line for many miles, with poplars on both sides, which create a vista very striking on first entering it, but which by its uniformity soon becomes tiresome. At the end of each German mile (four miles five-eighths English) in the centre of the road, there is an obelisk erected, on which in very large characters, the distances to all the towns in the vicinity are marked. Around the obelisk a green plat railed off with seats for travellers to repose on, and a circular drive on both sides, has a pleasing effect. At each quarter of a (German) mile, there are smaller stones to indicate the distances from the mile-stones. This road has been constructed, since the French were driven out, at the king's expense ; and I was told had cost him 30,000 dollars the German, or 1,000 pounds the English, mile. Nothing can be seen on either side this road, through the poplars, but a miserable sandy country, lately planted with firs, pines, beech, and birch-trees, which, however, in spite of the apparent poverty of the soil, seemed to be in a flourishing condition. The comfort of travelling on such a road as this was great, from the contrast between it and what we had just before passed ; but it soon became monotonous and jading to the senses, much more so than the worst roads are, in districts where, at every turning, and every ascent, a new prospect is IgO PRUSSIA. displayed, which, if it does not lessen, compensates for the fatigue. Hope and expectation are constantly excited when travelling over a rugged country ; but when it is flat, and yields no prospect, the best roads soon become tame and tiresome. At the end of the avenue, we reached the village of Blour, on the banks of the Havel. It had been burnt by the French during the war, and all the houses being now newly built, it has a pleasant and very cheerful appearance. The river takes here a bend, which makes it necessary to cross it twice within a short distance. It expanded into a beautiful lake nearer Brandenburg, and the banks being well covered with trees, and, in some parts, with good houses, it had a very pleasing effect. From the number of barges we saw, some under sail, and others by the banks, I should have concluded the traffic was very great, but the owners complained of the dulness of their business, and asserted, that many more vessels were un- employed than were earning any thing. The vessels conveying hay to Berlin had a singular appearance: they looked like enormous floating hay-stacks ; for the boats on which it was heaped, were totally invisible, as the hay protruded over every part of them, at least two or three feet. On approach- ing nearer, we discovered a hole cut through the hay, by which the bargemen were enabled to crawl into their cabins. I should judge from the size of these floating masses of hay,: that each of them must have contained from forty to fifty tons. The land, on the banks of the Havel, is by no means rich ; nor is the verdure to be compared to that of the golden mea- dows of the Elbe, which we had passed the preceding day, but, as we drew near to Brandenburg, the garden culture appeared, and seemed to be carried to a considerable extent. PRUSSIA. l(il Brandenburg, the oldest city in this part of the kingdom, and that from whence the whole district takes its name, is a well- built place, with one broad handsome street, and several smaller ones. It is in a fine situation on the banks of the Havel, which divides it into two parts, the old and the new town ; the latter is visibly much the handsomer place of the two. The inhabit- ants, including the military, who are but few, amount to 12,104, among whom are 110 Jews, the rest all Lutherans. There are a cathedral and seven other churches, and a great number of schools, moderately endowed, for all classes. During'^ the war, a considerable quantity of cotton goods were manu- factured, but the change of circumstances that has since ensued has nearly annihilated the manufactories of them. Woollen goods supply work to about two hundred and fifty looms ; the yarn is spun here by machinery, which was introduced by an English- man. It must be of inconsiderable power, as, instead of steam, or even horses, it is worked by men. The linen manufactory is carried on by one hundred and fifty looms. There are tan- neries, breweries, and distilleries, upon a small scale. From Brandenburg to Potsdam is a delightful ride by the banks of the lake into which the Havel is expanded. This^* lake, spreading out between hills covered with trees, presented most pleasing prospects, which were mellowed by the brilliant setting of the autumnal sun, and the variegated foliage of the deciduous trees among the evergreens. The banks of this lake had been planted since I last saw it, and the change pro- duced seemed to have communicated a charm, and given a new character to the whole district. The immediate approach to the gate of Potsdam was over a bad road, but on both sides of it, Frederick the Great, who wished to bring Italy to Prussia,'^ had planted mulberry-trees. These, however, are now 162 PRUSSIA. decayed, and, in their stead, the unmeaning poplar is thickly planted, and grows with its usual rapidity. The road, now very good, was formerly most execrable. The environs of Potsdam are very beautiful ; many gentlemen's seats enliven them, and the great abundance of trees, especially those bearing fruit, give an air of rich cultivation to be seen in no other part of Prussia. The shelter of the surrounding hills, and the dry nature of the soil render it capable of bearing good grapes in the open air. This fruit is sent by the river to Berlin, but some is converted into wine, of which it furnishes about eight hundred hogsheads annually, of an inferior quality. Potsdam may properly be denominated a city of palaces, for no other buildings present themselves to the view of the be- holder; there is an appearance of depopulation at all times very striking, but I think more so now than formerly, per- haps, from the greater part of the garrison having marched to Berlin to the reviews which were performing there. The visit to Sans Souci is indispensable to every traveller who arrives at Potsdam. The entrance to it is through a small park half an English mile from the town. The palace is on an eminence, which is gained by ascending four flights of steps, at the top of each of which is a fine terrace, about five hundred feet long ; under each of them, enclosed within glass, facing the south, is the grapery. The building on the highest of these terraces is plain but elegant, consisting only of a ground-floor with a cupola in the centre. The front is mucii ornamented with fine statues of marble, either antiques or good copies. The prospect from the upper terrace over the city, the lake, and the surrounding country, inspires more pleasure than looking at the palace, which has little to interest except what arises from associating it with the memory of its founder, PRUSSIA. 163 and inhabitant, Frederick. The other front is more grand, consisting of a double row of marble pillars in a circular form, overlooking fields which were formerly used as an exercising place for the troops. The interior consists but of a few apart- ments simply furnished, though much more adorned by the late king, than they were when occupied by his predecessor. At one end of this building is the burying-place for his favourite dogs, over each of which, a marble slab with the name is placed. This has been almost exactly copied by the Duchess of York at Oatlands. The new palace, built between 1763 and 1769, is a fine building, displays much architectural taste, and is of extensive dimensions. It has been scarcely ever inhabited, and every thing about it look:* either unfinished or neglected, except the build- ing itself, and the numerous statues that almost crowd its roof. The road to this palace from Potsdam, is through a noble avenue, two miles in length, which loses a great portion of the beauty it might otherwise possess, from the bad state in which it is suffered to remain. The marble palace, on the banks of the lake, has a good effect at a distance ; but it is spoiled on a nearer approach, by the glaring red colour with which a part of the front is painted. The palace, at present occupied by the king, in the centre of the city, is built with exquisite taste, and seemed in better preservation than any other edifice in Potsdam. I regretted that, from his majesty being there, I could not see the interior. A summer palace built by the late king, has some very beautiful points of view over the lake, the gardens are undu- lating, and laid out in what is called here the English style. -j64 PRUSSIA. /Jhe house is small, but elegant, and only too near the great jFoad for a royal country residence. ;, Potsdam, a city, by the number and size of the houses, ca- pable of containing double that population, had in 1814, exclusive of the military, 15,426 inhabitants. The principal manufactory here is that of arms ; the place in which they .are fabricated occupies the whole of one street, and employs many workmen. There are also some inconsiderable esta- blishments for making cotton, woollen, linen, and silk goods. Some carpets, hosiery, and paper, are also made. Besides j^hese, some of the more curious businesses are carried on, ^uch as that of making musical instruments, chemical prepa- rations for painters, as well as for medicinal purposes, and various perfumes. The breweries and distilleries, as every where in Prussia, are in great numbers. ■ The public buildings are numerous ; there are nine churches, seven for Lutherans, and one each for Reformed and Catholics, and a synagogue for the Jews. The charitable institutions are liberal ; both for relieving the old, the sick, and the indigent, and for the purposes of education. The orphan house, uniting both relief and instruction, is a good establish- ment, and one of the largest piles of building within the city. ;, The road to Berlin was over a branch of the Havel, but as the bridge was rebuilding, a ferry-boat conveyed over the passengers and carriages, which occasioned a long detention ; the whole distance, for about twenty miles on both sides of the road, has a row of lofty poplars, and on one side a good path for foot passengers. Soon the sandy plain on which Berlin stands was displayed, presenting only fields, on which BERLIN. ^il^5 rye was either just springing up, or tlie thin stubbles of the last crop shewed themselves. The whole of this tract of land, to within a few miles of the gates of the capital, is cultivated upon the three-course rotation of a fallow-root or pease crop, followed by rye and barley ; and from the poverty of the soil, the increase on each must be very small. Nearer the city the garden culture began to appear, and the effects of the manure, which so large a place supplies, were very visible. The sides of the road were adorned with the country-houses of the inhabitants, and the vegetable and fruit gardens were both extensive and productive. I could not help remarking, that I had met no waggons loaded with dung from the city, to the farms at a little distance, as we see near London, and other large places. I found the gardens absorbed the whole, and that the price given for it by the gardeners, which is higher than in London, forbade the use of it to the farmers. I found Berlin in a state of bustle, from the military reviews which had just commenced. These were originally designed to have been conducted this year upon a scale of unusual grandeur ; and it was expected that the two Emperors of Russia and Austria would have been present at them, and that the assembled forces would have amounted to sixty thousand men. The scale, however, was much contracted, and neither of those distinguished personages were present. This alteration in the plan, said by some to have originated solely from econo- mical motives, was attributed by others to the apprehension that so large an assembly as this magnificent spectacle would draw together, might produce some popular effervescence from the agitation, that as they think prevails in the public mind on the subject of politics. Y i^Q BERLIN. i' In company with a very intelli!>;ent Danish gentleman, vvitii whom I had become acquainted in Hanover, and who had been my travelling; companion from thence to Berlin ; I ])rocured a carriage to take a view of the operations, which were carried on about three miles from the city. A rising ground with a higher hill behind it, at the termination of a sandy plain, was completely fortitied with bastions, curtains, and a ditch. The principal object of the operation, was said to be to teach the mode of capturing a strong place with little expense of lives, by making a sap on the crown of the glacis. The approaches had been made in regular form, and two sets of traverses had been carried on, till the besiegers had got so near as to proceed by mining, or to breach the wall. After much skirmishing, both with musketry and artillery, in which the besieged were driven within the defences, the besiegers entered the trenches, and advanced towards the works. A violent cannonading took place, a mine was exploded, and as I learnt (for all was enveloped in smoke) the attempt to storm was made, and after several reiterated attacks, was repulsed. The garrison then sallied out, drove the besiegers back, who retired in disorder, and were rallied behind the cavalry, when in their turn, the besieged were repulsed, and driven within their works. This siege was continued for seven or eight days longer, and each day with a new set of opera- tions, and a new lesson to the army. The whole number of the troops thus exercised, were about 18,000. Having little military taste, I was satisfied with the exhibition of a single day ; and though highly gratified, both by the military spec- tacle, the numerous assemblage, and the sight of the whole royal family, I did not repeat my visit to the scene of the operations. i BKRLIX. J(57 The horse artillery seemed to me to be well appointed, and to work with admirable skill and activity. Neither the lancers nor the light dragoons appeared to be equal to our troops of the same description ; but the infantry, especially the two regiments of guards, one under the honorary colonelcy of the Emperor of Russia, and the other of the Emperor of Austria, were I thought the finest body of men I had ever seen. They were almost wholly young men, of good height, covered a great space of ground from the breadth of their chests, and marched with a firm and equal step. They were admirably equipped, one regiment with white, the other with black belts. Their knapsacks, exactly of a size, were covered with goat- skin, and were perfectly flat, instead of exhibiting that irre- gular rotundity which is usually seen in the load on a soldiers back. The officers, as well as the men, had each his knapsack at the back. .\; _> , i;^ After the king and his staff" had passed along the line of the 9,ssailing army, and they had entered the trenches, the royal party joined the females of the family, in a splendid circular tent which was pitched on one of the sand-hills. Behind the tent, a long table was spread, with a breakfast of cold meats, fruit, bread, and wine, of which the royal family, and some of the superior officers partook. All the royal family were there, down to the youngest son of the king, who appeared to be about ten or twelve years of age. The circle of the popu- lace that surrounded the royal party was so near, that I should have thought it rather annoying, but, with very little effbrt, the strictest order was preserved, and the most respectful behaviour maintained. Whenever the king passed, hats were taken off", and some, but not vehement, shouts of applause uttered, which he returned by touching his hat with his fore- y 2 ]68 BERLlN/a finger; and I remarked that he adopted the same mode of saluting the colours, as the regiments passed in review before him. He looked, as when in England, rather melancholy, but somewhat older, and much changed from the jouth of timid and diffident appearance, such as I had seen him before he ascended that throne on which he has witnessed such vicis- situdes, 1 was pleased with the decorous conduct of the numerous spectators, who were conjectured to amount to about forty thousand. The generality of them did not, indeed, appear to be of the lower classes, or, if they were so, had not their working dresses, but were generally neatly and cleanly, though some- what coarsely, clad. A trifling occurrence excited in me some surprise. A man, quite as well dressed as my companion or myself, seeing us to be foreigners, as we alighted from the carriage, was very polite and attentive, explained to us the plan of operations, pointed out the various distinguished per- sonages by name, took us to spots where, with most advantage, >tiB-< could survey the whole proceedings of the field, and conducted us to the tent where the royal party were assembling*;; We were, of course, thankful for his civility, for such we considered it to be ; when, at taking leave, in a low but not a begging tone of voice, he asked for money, (tr'uik-gdd,) and not thankfully, but most politely bowed to us, wiien my companion had put into his hand a two groschen piece. From his dress, manners, and language, he was the last man to whom 1 should have presumed to offer, unasked, any remuneration for his attentions. ' "^ '? The spectators were ko])t in order with less difficulty than I iiad usually observed at home : the troops, employed to keep tjie ground were few in number, and the single expression dev Konig BERLIN. •'■ 169 hefthkt, his Majesty orders, — seemed to have sufficient power to make them fall back, or open a way, without usin<; any more rigid measures. On the return to the city, the public houses on the road-side did not appear, as with us, crowded with company, employed in drinking, at the conclusion of the holiday ; but they, with great sobriety, dispersed themselves to their several occupations. This may be the effect of great economy, or of habitual temperance, or, perhaps, of the latter created by the former. w,f,,{, I was much pleased at observing the attention, both paid by the military and the spectators, to those growing crops which were within the sphere of the operations. Between the two sets of traverses which were carried on towards the fortress, there was one large field of rye which had been early sown, and was beginning to look green ; around it the soldiers that kept the ground were more thickly placed than elsewhere, and prevented the spectators from trampling upon it. The operations of tlie day were evidently so planned as to avoid committing any trespass on that particular field ; and, accordingly, though advantageously placed for seeing, it was scarcely intruded upon. The motive that dictated the precautions, was, most certainly laudable; but it seemed to me a mistaken one, for the soil was so light, that had the field belonged to myself, I should have been thankful if twenty thousand men had marched over it ; for, I believe that the soil would have become more compact, and, consequently, the produce at the following harvest greater. I had been acquainted with some of the agricultural writings of Von Thaer, which had reached England, and which had impressed me much by the marks of accuracy which they discovered. Whenever I had conversed with, tlifi lajgej:.,agrj|- IffQ BLOMBERG. culturists, in Hanover, Brunswick, or elsewhere, I had heard his praises so generally pronounced, that I naturally felt desirous to form an acquaintance with him, and to view his establishment which has been founded to increase and dispense agricultural knowledge. Having stated my wishes to a very respectable and intelligent friend in Berlin, he suggested to me, that if I would pay a visit to Count Itzenplitz, who was a neigh- bour of Von Thaer, and upon the most intimate terms with him, I might be introduced, and have an opportunity of viewing his plans, and seeing his mode both of cultivation and instructing his pupils. My friend had lately passed some time at Count Itzenplitz's castle, and lamented, that his occupations prevented him from being my companion, but offered to furnish me with a letter, which would ensure me the most hospitable and friendly reception. I, therefore, determined to visit that country, which is on the banks of the Oder ; and the character I heard of the Count, from various quarters, was such as convinced me my visit would be mutually agreeable. '' I ordered post-horses, and the next morning, before day-light, left Berlin, by the excellent road that leads to Konigsberg. The land on this side the city is equally sandy and poor, as on that by which I had entered ; but, after seven or eight miles, it improved, and, as I passed through the small town of Blomberg, which contains about four hundred and fifty inha- bitants, both the land and the cultivation of it were visibly better. 1 here first remarked tiiat in the garden of each house, there was a large field-oven of a circular form, con- structed of mud and sand. The dimensions of these are suited for baking the large loaves of rye-bread, which form equally the food of the horses and their riders. As I proceeded WERMCHEN. 171 towards the Oder, I found these field-ovens univcrsai ; but have not remarked thein either before or since in any other part of the country through which I travelled*-' •'-i V* * - At Wernichen a small post-town of 500 inhabitants, wher^ I breakfasted and waited for a change of horses, I found the post-master both civil and intelligent. Like most of his office in the smaller towns, he is a considerable farmer, and showed me his stock and premises. His cows are stall fed, and are allowed in winter only potatoes and rye-straw. They were in a very dirty condition from the want of litter, for in this country the whole straw is eaten by the cattle, and none allowed to be converted into manure. They were poor, but fine animals of a grey dun colour, which I found very common both in Prussia and Saxony, and must be good milkers, as they afford when in the best state, six pounds of butter weekly. The skim-milk is wholly used by the labourers. As post-master, this person has more manure from his horses than any of his neighbours, and therefore reaps what he calls good crops. He sows three bushels of rye to the acre, and on an average gets a return of twenty, or nearly seven for one, whilst the average increase in the rest of the township, is not foui' for one. '^ , Soon after leaving Wernichen my road quitted the chaussee, and passed over a sandy plain by a deep road which was so much incumbered with granite stones, that it required some attention in the postillion to avoid them. The fields on both sides were uncultivated, and seemed scarcely to be capa- ble of improvement. The surface was so much crowded with the granite stones of all dimensions, from the size of a man's fist to that of a hogshead, as to forbid the use of the plough. These fields terminated in a wood, which rose on a gentle 172 KUNNEESDORF. acclivity, and continued teff miles; ilnd as I was informed, extended more than twenty miles in length, and is all the property of an individual nobleman. After being disengaged from the wood, the country between it and the Oder was displayed ; being an extensive plain, with here and there a large farming establishment, and a very few noblemen's seats. As I approached towards Kunnersdorf the residence of the count, the land improved ; the trees, especially the new plantations, gave a degree of richness to the prospect, but was in beauty far inferior to the verdant and well-wooded country, which rose on the opposite bank of the Oder. bnThe castle of Count Itzenplitz is a large and stately building, not older I should judge than seventy or eighty years ; and the plantations and gardens around it, are disposed with more taste than is usually seen in this country. I was, however, not a little mortified on driving up to the gate, to "be informed that the master and mistress, with the daughter, who had been represented to me as particularly attached to English literature, were absent, had left home unexpectedly the day before, and would not return in less than ten days. The domestics were civil, and the steward when I com- municated to him from whom I had an introduction, wished me to remain in the house, offered every accommodation, and expressed much regret that his master should lose the oppor- tunity of exercising his hospitality to any English gentleman, for whose nation he knew him to entertain very high respect. Though this was very civil, and might be very sincere, it reduced me to a dilemma, from which I could only extricate myself by applying without introduction to the person I most wished to see, and trusting to his hospitality. I was then near forty miles from Berlin, but not more than four or five MOEGELIN. 173 from Moegelin, the residence of Von Thaer. I therefore turned about and drove to that place, announced myself as an Englishman and a stranger, and began to explain the circumstances which had induced me to intrude on him. Before I could half finish my short narrative, I was interrupted by the assurance that the explanation was needless ; that my country was a guarantee for me, that no greater pleasure could be atibrded him and his family, than an opportunity of exercising the hospitality of their house to an Englishman. I felt by his manners, even more than by his words, that he was not paying unmeaning compliments. I was introduced into the dining-roon, where the family had just assembled, and was seated at a plain and substantial dinner within five minutes of my arrival, with as full a conviction of a sincere welcome, as I ever felt at the table of my most intimate friends. The dinner hour here, as with many other most respectable German families, especially in the country, is twelve o'clock ; and the evening meal, for they have not introduced the French term, supper, about eight o'clock, is the most substantial. <- Though Von Thaer does not speak or understand the English language by hearing it, yet, as is frequently the (!ase in Germany, he understands it well in books, and has trans- lated several of our agricultural works, and published them in his native tongue. I found him perfectly acquainted with our weights and measures of every kind, and the pro- portions they bore to the weights and measures used in the different parts of Germany ; so that in walking over his land and surveying his establishment with him, I was saved mucii of the trouble of that calculation, which is perplexing and leads to distrust in a foreign country. z lU MOEGELIN. , I surveyed, in company with Von Thaer, every part of his farm. The wheat had been put in the ground very early. It was all drilled with a machine of his own invention, which is rather an improvement on our English drills. It forms nine rows at each time, is drawn by two horses, and the seed is well covered by the rakes affixed to the machine. It is well con- trived for the soil in which it is employed, but it would answer in very few districts of England without being made considerably heavier, by strengthening some of its parts. The wheat had been drilled after a crop of pease, well manured ; but though it looked of a good colour and healthy, it was weak, considering the length of time it had been sowed. With his excellent farming, he assured me, that his wheat did not average more than l6 bushels to the acre. In the quantity of seed, he seemed to me parsimonious, not drilling quite a bushel to the acre, which, he says, experience has taught him is sufficient. The saving of seed in his opinion, is the only circumstance which makes drilling preferable to sowing broad east, as far as regards wheat, rye, barley and oats. The pro- portion of wheat in this large farm is very small. That grain not being used as the common food of man within the country, its price fluctuates with the demands of other countries, and with their prohibitory laws ; and, besides, its produce is very variable. Rye, on the other hand, finds the far greater part of its consumers at home ; the variation in price is much less, and on this soil its produce is more uniform. The rye was partly drilled and partly sowed broad-cast, being of a great extent, the larger portion was done in the latter mode. In the whole, about four hundred acres were in rye. The average produce, the result of statistical accounts, kept with the greatest accuracy for a scries of years, has been twenty-two MOEGELiy. ^y?; bushels and a half to the acre. From the season of the year no barley was growing ; but the average produce of that grain, as I learnt, when sowed after a winter fallow and pease, is twenty- three bushels to the acre ; but when sowed after rye or wheat, (a most reprehensible practice, though that commonly followed) only sixteen bushels to the acre. The pease yield but little, not more than three for one of the quantity sowed, and they are cultivated at Moegelin, more for the sake of the haulm than of the pulse ; and the abundance of that, which is considered excellent food for sheep, is the principal inducement to grow them as a fallow crop. The rotation of crops here is various; but that most usually pursued is, first, potatoes or pease, followed by rye, clover, and wheat. H Experiments have been tried here, both with winter and sum- mer tares, to furnish food for sheep, but without success. The winter season in this climate is too severe for the former kind, and the latter have been so uncertain in their produce, owing as is supposed to the frequent occurrence of long droughts, that they are altogether abandoned. A plant for the food of sheep for one part of the year was quite new to me, and is so^, I believe, to most of our English agriculturists. It is grown to a great extent on the stubble fields, I know not the English name, but it is the Spergula ai-vensis of Linnaeus. The seed is sown in the stubbles immediately after harvest, and in six weeks it furnishes food for sheep which they prefer to every other, and which is found extremely nutritious. It is an oily plant, the seed small, about six or seven pounds is sowed on an acre. What is raised for seed is sown in May, and is fit to be gathered in August. I afterwards saw the same plant growing on most of the lands, both in Prussia and in Saxony, where large flocks of sheep are kept. It is said to be very productive on all z 2 lyg MOEGELIN. sandy soils ; I think it worth trying the experiment, and have provided some of the seed for that purpose. -"The favourite article of cultivation with Von Thaer is po- tatoes, on which he sets a peculiarly high value. His mode is simple and easy. They are planted in rows after the plough, at the rate of sixteen bushels to the acre. When the plants are up, they are earthed with a double-breasted plough, first, parallel to the rows in which they are planted, and then with the same plough the furrows are crossed, thus leaving the potatoes in small square patches. When, at maturity, the soil is turned up with a three-pronged fork, and all the roots carefully collected by women and children. The stalks are far more abundant than those of our potatoes, and yield, I should think, from what I saw, as four to one. This haulm is carefully turned, dried, and collected into stacks, and is used as litter for the horses and cows instead of straw, which is here converted into food by cutting it small. -'' Like all his countrymen, Von Thaer prefers German small potatoes to our large ones ; they are less mealy, and have a different flavour. His preference, if his facts are correct, of which I have no doubt, is certainly supported by better reasons than I have heard from any other person in this country. He contended, that the nutritive quality of the potatoe depends on the quantity of starch that it contains ; that, upon ana- lysis, the smaller kind of potatoes that are here cultivated, contains a far greater proportion of starch than any that grow to a larger size; that, beyond a certain size, which, by giving the roots sufficient room, they will naturally attain, the increase is only water, and can scarcely be termed nutriment. ?^^This decisive judgment, founded on chemical analysis, MOEGELIN. 177 extends itself to the comparison betwixt turnips and potatoes. The soil is admirably calculated for turnips, but the long continued droughts on the continent, where the weather is more settled than in England, operates to prevent their benefi- cial culture, as he has experienced in his own practice. He has found turnips a crop of uncertain produce, and, in some years, they have utterly failed ; and, in that case, one year's use of the land has been lost. In potatoes, there is no risk of a total failure, and, comparatively, but little variation in the quantity that is yielded. He illustrated the difference between the potatoe and the turnip culture very ably, as far as related to his own soil and climate ; but very wisely did not attempt to prove that it was preferable in England, or in many other parts of Germany. ,^^.^ The average produce of his potatoes, in a series of years, has been three hundred bushels to the acre ; this he compared with what I stated to be the average weight of an acre of turnips on good land, as well cultivated as his is, in England ; and which I stated below the truth, at twenty tojis, because I wished not to be suspected of exaggeration to support an hypothesis. He contended, that his average growth of three hundred bushels, or five tons of potatoes, contained more nutriment than twenty tons of turnips, because the proportion of starch in potatoes to that in turnips, was much more than four to one. I did not urge the. quantity of mucilage in the turnip, because I wished to learn his views rather than to suggest my own. His time was valuable, as he is a Land-rath, or principal magistrate, of a large tract of country, and was compelled to be absent one of the days I spent at his house on official business; an absence for which he made more apologies than were due to an unintroduced stranger, and which he ]78 MOEGELIN. amply compensated for, by placing me under the care of Professor Koerte, a most intelligent and amiable man, who accompanied me over the institution, and took much pains to satisfy my curiosity on every subject. I felt the value of Von Thaer's time, as well as of his atten- tions ; and I avoided all lengthened discussions, that I might not lose the information which his conversation conveyed on the subjects he touched. He was patient when I hesitated in giving assent to liis opinions, and evidently experienced more pleasure in communicating information than in displaying a superiority of knowledge, which after a sliort period I feltthat he possessed. His style was somewhat didactic, but much less so than is usually found in men who have passed great part of their lives in the instruction of young men in a branch of know- ledge of which they were previously ignorant, and with which he was thoroughly acquainted. A brewery and distillery are the necessary accompaniments of every large farming establishment in Germany. The result of many experiments in the latter, proved that the same quantity of alcohol is produced from one hundred bushels of potatoes as from twenty-four bushels of wheat, or thirty-three of barley. As the products of grain, or of potatoes, are relatively greater, the distillery is regulated by that proportion. The different inventions for economy in the use of fuel, cheap as it is, both in the brewery and the distillery, though highly useful to the pupils of the establishment, presented to me nothing of novelty in either their principle or their application. During the existence of the foolisli continental system, the scarcity of sugar gave rise to many experiments here, vvhicii, though beneficial at the time, have ceased to be longer useful. Yon Thaer found, after many trials, that the most profitable MOEGELIN. 179 vegetable from which su^ar could be made, was the common garden turnip, (of which species I did not ascertain,) and that whilst sugar was sold at a rix.-dollar the pound, it was very pro- fitable to extract it from that root. The samples of sugar made during that period from different roots, the processes, and their results, are carefully preserved in the museum, but would now be tedious to describe. They are certainly equal in strength of sweetness, and those refined, in colour and hardness, to any produced from the sugar-cane of the tropics. An important object of this establishment has been the improvement of the breed of sheep, which, as far as regards the fineness of the wool, has admirably succeeded. By various crosses from select Merinos, by sedulously excluding from the flock every ewe, that had coarse wool, and, still more, by keeping them in a warm house during the winter, Von Thaer has brought the wool of his sheep to great fineness, far greater than any that is clipped in Spain ; but the improvement of the carcase has been neglected, so that his, like all other German mutton, is very indifferent. In England, where the flesh is of much more value than the fleece, the Merino breeding has not been attended with beneficial results. The fleeces of the Moegelin flock average about three pounds and a half each : they have been sold to English traders, who came to the spot at one period to purchase them, as high as eight shillings and six-pence per pound, whilst the whole flesh could not be sold for more than ten or twelve shillings. This statement will readily account for the fact, that though Merino sheep are very bene- ficial in Prussia and Saxony, they have been found unprofitable with us. Von Thaer, with tlie assistance of the professors of the institution over which he presides, has arranged the various kinds of wool on cards, and discriminated with geometrical 18Q MOEGELIN. exactness, the fineness of that produced from different races of sheep. The finest are some specimens from Saxony, his own are the next. The fine Spanish wool from Leon is inferior to his, in the proportion of eleven to sixteen. The wool from Botany Bay, of which he had specimens, is inferior to the Spanish. He had arranged, by a similar mode, the relative fineness of the wools produced on the different parts of the body of the sheep, so as to bring under the eye, at one view, the comparative value of the different parts of the fleeces ; and he had, also, ascertained the proportionate weight of those different parts. The application of optics and geometry, by :^liich the scales that accompany the specimens are con- structed, is such, as to leave no doubts on any mind, of the accuracy of the results. The scales, indeed, show only the fineness, and not the length of the fibre ; which is, I believe, of considerable importance in the process of spinning. The celebrity of the Moegelin sheep is so widely diffused, that the ewes and rams are sold at enormous prices to the agri- culturists in East Prussia, Poland, and as far as Russia. ,*f>| met here a Polish nobleman. Count D , with whom I had formed an acquaintance in Berlin. His extensive estates, which he most pressingly invited me to see, and to whicli nothing but the want of time prevented me from accompanying him, are on both sides the boundary line, which divides Russia from Prussia ; and, consequently, he, like many others, would be in a most unpleasant predicament, if hostilities should break out between those powers, both of whom claim, and would enforce, the military service of all their subjects. From this gentleman I learnt, that, in his country, the introduction of Merinos had produced a wonderful change of late years ; that the males of the Moegelin flock Jiad, been extensively spread; that the wool of their large flocks was already of MOEGELIN. J 81 double its former value, and was every year increasing in fineness. In consequence of this improvement in the wool? extensive manufactories were already established, and more were erecting; that they expected, very shortly, to supply the markets of Russia, and supplant the English clothiers, and that already some of their cloths had found a market in China, by passing through Tartary. A great change in the commercial world may certainly be produced by the whole of the extensive and thinly-peopled country of Poland being converted into sheep pasture, and those sheep producing wool of the finest quality. England has imported, of late years, about 3,000,000 pounds of fine wool from Germany. Much of the cloth that has been made from it, has been sent to Russia, and to other countries, very accessible to the new manufacturers at Kasan. The profits, freights, commissions, and other expenses, must amount to much more than any difference that can long exist between our machinery, the only point in which we are at present superior, and that which is establishing nearer the growth of the wool and the consumption of the cloth. With- out indulging imaginary fears, and without being a great alarmist, it is not improper to contemplate the possibility of a competition in Russia, in Turkey, and even in the East, which is not generally expected. There is, undoubtedly, a deficiency of capital in the countries between Germany and Russia; but capital, like water, if not as speedily, will, at least as invariably, flow to the places where it is most productive. I must, after this digression, return to Moegelin. and, at the hazard of being deemed tiresome, proceed with my account of a place which I found highly interesting. The breeding of cows and the management of a dairy are secondary objects, as far 182 MOEGELIN. as regards the mere farming ; but it is attended to with care, for the sake of the pupils, who thus have before their eyes that branch of agricultural practice, which may be beneficial on some soils, though not adapted to this. The cows are in good order, of an excellent breed, and, considering that they are, like the sheep, fed only on potatoes and chopped straw, are in good condition. They yield, when in full milk, from five to six pounds of butter weekly. The custom of killing the calves, when only a fortnight or three weeks old, prevails here as well as elsewhere in Germany. There is no disputing about taste ; but though veal is a favourite food at the tables of the rich, it always seemed to me very unpleasant. The ploughs at Moegelin are better constructed than any I had before seen in Germany. They resemble our common swing-plough, but with a broader fin at the point of the share. The mould-board is constructed on a very good principle, and with great skill ; the convexity of its fore-part so gradually changing into concavity at the hinder-part, as to turn the soil completely upside down. The land is cleanly and straightly ploughed to the depth of six and a half or seven inches, with a pair of oxen, whose usual work is about an acre and a quarter each day. A thrashing-machine is rarely used, and only to show the pupils the principle on which it is constructed, and the effect it produces; but having neither wind nor water machinery to work it, the flail is almost exclusively used, the thrashers receive the sixteenth bushel for their labour. The rate of wages to the labourers is four groschen a day, winter and summer, besides which, they are provided with hal)itations and fuel. The women receive from two to three groschen, accord- ing to their strength and skill. They live on rye-bread or MOEGELIN. 183 potatoes, thin soup, and scarcely any animal food, but bacon, and a very small portion even of that; yet they look strong and healthy, and tolerably clean. About twelve or thirteen years ago, the King of Prussia, vi^ho, like his uncle, was always anxious to extend and improve the agriculture of his dominions, invited Von Thaer, who re- sided near Luneburg, and whose celebrity was even then great, to settle in his kingdom, to assist in diffusing agricultural knowledge, and by his management set an example to the other great landed proprietors, which might stimulate them to adopt similar improvements. His majesty also wished him to conduct a seminarv, in which the knowledije of the sciences might be applied to husbandry, for the instruction of the young men of the first families. The estate of Moegelin was given to him to improve and manage as a pattern farm. It consists of eighteen hun- dred Berlin morgens, or about twelve hundred English acres. At that time the annual value was estimated at two thousand rix-dollars, but is now supposed to be worth twelve thousand ; but some part of that increased value must arise from the buildings that have been since erected. The principal im- provement, that of the soil, has arisen from the large flocks of sheep, which in summer are folded on the land, and in winter make abundant manure in houses constructed for their • lodging. The royal institution, of which Von Thaer is the director, and which occupies a considerable portion of his extensive buildings, has three professors besides himself. One for mathematics, chemistry and geology ; one for veterinary know- ledge ; and a third for botany and the use of the different vegetable productions in the materia medica, as well as for 2 A 2 184 MOEGELIN. entomology. Besides these, an experienced agriculturist is en- gaged, whose office it is to point out to the pupils the mode of applying the sciences to the practical business of husbandry. The course commences in September. During the winter months, the time is occupied in mathematics and the first six books of Euclid, are studied ; and in the summer, the geome- trical knowledge is practically applied to the measurement of land, timber, buildings, and other objects. The first principles of chemistry are unfolded. By a good, but economical appa- ratus, various experiments are made both on a large and small scale. For the larger experiments, the brew-house and still-house, with their respective fixtures, are found highly useful. Much attention is paid to the analysation of various soils, and the different kinds, with the relative quantity of their com- ponent parts, are arranged with great order and regularity. The classification is made with neatness, by having the specimens of soil arranged in order, and distinguished by different colours. Thus, for instance, if the basis of the soil be sandy, the glass has a cover of yellow paper ; if the next predominating earth be calcareous, the glass has a white ticket on its side ; if it be red clay, it has a red ticket ; if blue clay, a brown one. Over these tickets, others of a smaller size, indicate by their colour, the third greatest quantity of the particular substance contained in the soil. This matter may appear to many more ingenious than useful, and savouring too much of the German habit of generalizing. The classification of Von Thaer is, however, as much adopted, and as commonly used on the large estates in this country, where exact statistical accounts are kept, as the classification of Linnaius in natural history, is throughout the civilized world. MOEGELIN.. 185 There is a large botanical garden, arranged on the system of the Swedish naturalist, kept in excellent order, with all the plants labelled, and the Latin as well as German names. An Herbarium with a good collection of dried plants, which is constantly increasing, is open to the examination of the pupils, as well as skeletons of the different animals, and casts of their several parts ; which must be of great use in the veterinary pursuits. Models of agricultural implements, espe- cially of ploughs, are preserved in a museum, which is stored as well with such as are familiar in Germany, as with those used in England, or other countries. I remarked the absence but of two implements known in this country, viz., the mole plough, and a new machine recently invented for sowing small seeds. The first of these would certainly be of little use in most parts of Germany ; and the other is so new, that excellent as it is, its adoption is by no means general, even in England. The various implements used on the farm, are all made by smiths, wheelers and carpenters, residing round the in- stitution ; the workshops are open to the pupils, and they are encouraged by attentive inspection, to become masters pi' the more minute branches of the economy of an estate. It appeared to me, that there was an attempt to crowd too much instruction into too short a compass, for many of the pupils spend but one year in the institution ; and thus only the foun- dation, and that a very slight one, can be laid in so short a space of time. It is, however, to be presumed, that the young men come here prepared with considerable previous knowledge, a.s they are mostly between the ages of twenty and twenty-foiu:^ and some few appeared to be still older. The sum paid by each pupil is four hundred rix-dolla.Ki B 186 MOEGELIN. annually, besides which they provide their own beds and break- fasts. In this country such an expense precludes the admission of all but youths of good fortune. Each has a separate apartment. They are very well behaved young men, and their conduct to each other, and to the professors, was polite even to punctilio. As I have not had an opportunity of visiting Hofwyl, and have met with no account of that institution, written by any person who is well acquainted with many details on the subject of its agriculture, I cannot make a comparison between that widely-blazoned establishment, and the unos- tentatious institution of Moegelin. I was, indeed, told that the plan and effects were far inferior; but, as my in- formants were Prussians, I make some allowance for the national vanity, which felt itself piqued, that the establishment in Switzerland should be praised most highly, and their royal foundation be unknown beyond the boundaries of the kingdom to which it belongs. When looking at manufactories in Germany, and conversing with the manufacturers, it has been my feeling, that there was a disposition to dispute our superiority, or if it was acknow- ledged, it was done with an air of dissatisfaction and jealousy ; but in all my intercourse with the landed proprietors, with their managers, or with the peasants, they cheerfully talked of the superiority of English agriculture, were surprised that I saw, or pointed out so little to condemn in theirs, and lamented, instead of defending, their own inferiority ; and 1 never suspected, whatever there might be of flattery, that there was a particle of jealousy felt on the subject. The conduct of that class of persons in particular, though I must say the MOEGELIN. 187 same of the Prussians in general, was calculated to make me proud of my country, and wherever I appeared, to induce me to make it speedily known that I was an Englishman ; nor could any other title, however distinguished, have gained a more flattering reception. I felt this on every part of my journey, not excepting France itself, till I got to Paris, and from thence to Calais. Though I admire this institution, and am convinced it is calculated to effect most beneficial purposes in such a country as Prussia, where the estates are enormously large, and the farms in general very small, where a great proprietor still has rights over the peasants, which have long ceased to exist in England, and which are gradually extinguishing here, and where the first examples of improvement must be exhibited by the lords in their demesne lands ; yet I am far from think- ing such an institution either needful, or very useful in this country. We have already carried the division of labour into our agriculture, not certainly so far as it is capable of being- carried, but much farther than is done in any other country. We have some of the best sheep farmers ; of the best cattle, and horSe breeders ; of the best hay, turnip, potatoe, and corn farmers, in the world ; but we have, perhaps, no one individual that unites in his own person so much knowledge of chemistry, of botany, of mathematics, of comparative anatomy, and of the application of these various sciences to all the practical purposes of agriculture as Von Thaer does ; nor is the want felt, because we have numbers of individuals, who, by applying to each branch separately, have reached a height of know- ledge far beyond what any man can attain who divides his attention between several objects. In chemistry, we have 188 MOEGELIN. now most decidedly the lead. In all of botany that is not mere nomenclature, it is the same. In mechanics, we have no equals. There are thus abundant resources, from which practical lessons may be drawn, and be drawn to the greatest advantage ; and that advantage has excited, and will continue to excite, many individuals to draw their practical lessons for each particular branch of agriculture, from that particular science on which it depends ; and thus the whole nation will become more benefited by such divisions and subdivisions of knowledge, than by a slight tincture of all the sciences united in the possession of some individuals. The division of labour in science, and in manufactures, is more obviously beneficial, and more easily adopted than in agriculture ; but it is not of superior benefit to a community. The surplus produce of a country, which alone creates its wealth, must chiefly depend on the portion of that division which can be introduced into its agriculture. Such division is utterly impossible where the cultivators, on an average, do not occupy more than forty or fifty acres of land, as is the case in Germany. From such farms there is little or no surplus ; all is consumed where it is produced ; and the trifling rent must be paid either by personal service, part of which is unproductive ; with the fruits of the field, which are consumed by the lord and his retainers ; or by petty payments, collected from week to week, which deprive the poor copyholders of all that small portion of ready money which they might invest in improvements ; which take from them the few comforts that might cheer their labour, and sweeten their existence, and keep them in a state much worse than that of the labourer, who depends on his daily work for his daily bread. It is easier to MQEGELIN. 189 see the evils under which a country labours, and to mark the causes of its depression than to point out the remedy wliicli may administer a cure. This can only be done by those who are intimately acquainted with all the minute links in the chain by which the body politic is bound together, and who can exert their strength on the whole without the risk of any of the parts giving way. The king of Prussia has done much, and is said to design more, by lessening the feudal claims of tJie lords ; by permitting estates even of knightly tenure to be purchased by burghers and non-nobles ; by simplifying the modes of con-; veyance and investiture ; by setting an example of renouncing most of the feudal dues on his vast patrimonial estates ; and by making good communications by roads, rivers, and canals, through his extensive territories. By these proceedings, he is conferring benefits on his country, which it is very doubtful if it would receive from the adoption of any of the projects which have been constantly clamoured about by that class of writers who have assumed the title of liberals ; and who, mistaking tlieir own echoes for the applause of the public, have wished tO( direct the rulers of their country. ,,; ; [I left Moegelin with a feeling of grateful respect, and shall Long remember the days I spent there with much pleasure-r. My return to Berlin was by the same road I had travelled on my way to it. In passing through the extensive wood wiiich I have noticed before, I had been much struck with the singular mixture of trees. Some of the oaks as large, as high, and as straight, as any I had ever seen, were growing beside lofty pines, in a soil which would have appeared tome capable only of, raising the latter, and totally unfit to bring the former to eyen-^ moderate dimensions. The singularity had been explained by: Professor Koerte, who informed me, that the whole tract 2 B 190 BERLIN. consisted of a very light sandy soil, mingled with granite stones, varying in depth from four to ten inches. Underneath this stratum, is a bed of stiff clay, from six to fourteen feet in depth ; below that, the sand again occurs, for two or three feet, and then conies the solid bed of granite rock. Thus the trees of one class derive their nourishment from the surface soil, and those of the other classes, particularly the oaks, from the clayey subsoil. I remarked the birches, as the largest trees of their species I had ever observed, and some of the willows had attained very unusual dimensions. The elms were the only kind of tree that did not appear flourishing; they were all stunted and scrubbed, and showed the want of moisture in the ground. In ascending a gentle rising in the wood, which I walked up whilst the carriage followed me, I met ajagcr, or gamekeeper, with his gun and dogs. He said, the wood abounded with wild deer, wild swine, and the inferior kinds of game. He had been out the whole day ; but the drought was so great, that no scent could be perceived by his dogs ; and, his day's sporting had been totally unsuccessful, not having once discharged his piece. When a traveller arrives at Berlin, by which ever gate he enters, the contrast between the wretched country that sur- rounds it, and the city itself, cannot fail to excite his surprise. Till better acquainted, he will not cease to wonder what inducement could have caused such a city, or even any city, to be built in such a situation ; from whence the supply of food can l)C drawn, and in what manner so numerous a population can iind the means to purchase the necessaries they need. Its situation on the river Spree, which is here divided into several branches, and navigable both to the Oder and the Elbe, first, probably, caused the t. BERLIN. 191 erection of a small city, and will account for the choice of this particular spot. When once entered, and all remembrance of the surrounding country banished from the mind, nothing can strike a visitor with more ideas of grandeur and magnificence than the streets, places, and public and private buildings display. It is like Potsdam, a city of palaces, but upon a larger scale. Though scarcely any of the buildings are recently erected, yet none are of a date to appear antique, not even in the old city, for all were modernized by the taste of Frederick, in conformity with the plan on which the new parts built during his reign, were constructed. Berlin is less changed in the twenty-two years that have passed since I first saw it, than any other city I am acquainted with in Europe. Except a new guard-house, near what is now the University, and was then the palace of Prince Henry, I saw no one object that was not quite familiar to my recollection. That guard-house is, indeed, an edifice, which, though not large, displays the finest architectural taste ; and, being placed in a conspicuous situation near the entrance to the promenade, iinter den Linden, under the lime-trees, natu- rally drew my attention. When Frederick the Great built this city, (for though long before his time it had existed under that character, yet the part he added is so much greater than was before in being, that it may be properly described as of his erection,) it was traced upon a plan far beyond the extent of a capital, which the narrow limits of his kingdom, and the poverty of his subjects, could maintain ; hence, for many years, the houses were unoccupied, or occupied gratuitously. The capital did not grow up naturally with the kingdom; it was a pre- mature and forced growth ; but, by various circumstances, 2 B 2 192 BERLIN the kingdom has grown up to the capital, and one is now scarcely too large for the other. That it is still somewhat too large, I think clear from the low rent of houses, which repays a very insufficient interest on the cost of building them, and which is too small to aiford any encouragement to erecting new houses. In the year 1797, the number of private dwelling- houses was 6,661, and of civil inhabitants 124,730 ; twenty years after, in 1817j the number of houses was 7,105; and the inhabitants, exclusive of military, 182,387- Thus, in the period which had increased the inhabitants at the rate of near fifty per cent., the augmentation of the houses has scarcely exceeded five per cent. This increase of inhabitants beyond the rate of increase of houses may long continue ; for if the former were as closely wedged together as they are in London, Paris, or Amsterdam, there is house-room sufficient in the city for double its present population. Berlin is enclosed by walls, not to protect it against an enemy, for which purpose they are too slight, but to defend the revenue from the invasion of smugglers. Of the area enclosed within these walls, little more than one-third is covered with buildings, and they enclose gardens, orchards, and fields, which, if built upon, would afford room for as many inhabitants as Paris con- tains, without the streets being built so narrow. Several of the gates of this city are very fine, two of them peculiarly so ; the Leipsick and the Brandenburg gates. To my taste, the proportions and the simple style of the architecture of the first, are to be preferred ; but the general opinion is more favourable to the latter. It is built on the exact model of the Coliseum at Athens ; but, on its summit are placed the brazen chariot and horses which were con- veyed with other plunder, to Paris, in 1806 ; and returned BERLIN. ]93 hither when that city was compelled to disgorge its stolen treasures. ^j ei 4i To describe all the remarkable objects which are to be seen in this show city, would fill a volume, if done with minuteness, and would probably be as tiresome to the reader as I found it to walk the long streets of the most abominably paved place that I ever entered. I shall, however, notice briefly some of the more remarkable, and as what engrossed my first attention, the royal library. This collection has been formed, by bringing together the books from the different royal residences, by purchases of libraries, which individuals had made, and by the accumulation of new books, as they are published in the diff'erent countries of Europe. The number of volumes are about two hundred thousand ; they are arranged and placed in different apartments of this noble edifice, according to their subjects. I was glad to see that the deficiency of modern books, which I formerly regretted, had ceased. Besides the old literature, the best editions of the Greek and Latin classics, of the ancient historians, civil and ecclesiastical, of the Fathers and of the Jurists, there is to be found almost every valuable work which recent science has produced in various languages. The collection of English, German, Italian, French, and Dutch works, is considerable ; and that of Spanish, much larger than I ever saw in any library in Spain. Besides these, every assistance that the architect, the antiquarian, the musician, or the natural historian can derive, may be found in one apart- ment. The liberality exercised, in making this library as extensively beneficial as possible, cannot be too strongly commended. Not only are places allotted for reading in the building, but the books are lent out, on proper caution, to any who wish to read them at their own houses. 194 BERLIN. Some curiosities here are shewn to strangers in the library of manuscripts. The Hebrew Bible, from which Luther made his translation of the Old Testament into the German language, is preserved, with numerous marginal notes in his hand-writing. There is also the English Bible which our Charles the First carried with him to the scaffold, with a memorandum of the fact, in the writing of Bishop Juxon. The greatest curiosity of this kind is a book, with beautifully illuminated portraits of the reformers, Luther, Melantthon, Zuinglius, and the others, as well as of their principal supporters among the princes and nobles of Germany. Under eacli portrait are a few lines written by the individuals whose likenesses it depicts. The number of other public libraries in Berlin is very great; several of the churches have large collections ; and several relate to philosophical, medical, surgical, military, and even free-masonry societies, and all are allowed to be used with great liberality. The collection of natural history, brought together in a part of the building now appropriated to the purpose of a univer- sity, is very consideral^ie, and with a few exceptions, tolerably arranged. Each specimen has a label, with the Latin and German names. The madrepores and corallines are not well classed. The collection is deficient in both sea and river fish, not even the common saw-fish, so easily to be got in all the West India islands, is to be seen. Tlie snakes are not classed, and there are no large specimens of the boa tribe. Among the amphibia, there is a great deficiency of the cayman species, though there are some fine specimens of crocodiles. With these few exceptions, it appeared to me, a most valuable and splendid addition to the scientific stores which are collected in this capital. A collection of eggs formed the least interesting BERLIN. 195 part of the whole, especially as those from the larger tribes of birds, were none of them of great size, the few ostriches eggs were all small. The mineralogical collection or rather collections, for there are two of them, are very fine ; one is arranged systematically in species and genera, and includes the stones and earths. The other is classed topographically, and includes minerals from the Prussian dominions, from other parts of Germany, from Russia, from England, from Sweden, and from Norway, in six divisions. The herbarium is but a poor collection, con- sisting principally of plants collected in the East, by a com- panion of Tournefort. The catalogue of other collections of natural history be- longing to individuals, to gymnasiums, and to societies, formed either to promote its knowledge or that of science, is very great; amounting to between thirty and forty, well de- serving the attention of the curious, who have more time than I allowed myself. The veterinary college, rewarded the inspection by the collection of the skeletons of horses and other animals, and casts of their respective parts. The anatomical theatre at that place is well contrived, with galleries round it for the students, lighted from the top by an elegant cupola. The old white English horse, which carried Frederick the Great to his battles, and which I formerly saw, has been dead so long, that the period was unknown to the man who showed me the stables. It would have been inexcusable to have left Berlin, without visiting the royal palace, called the Schloss (castle). It is in the centre of the city, a part of it is at present inhabited by the crown prince ; but by far the largest portion is igQ BERLIN. untenanted. The apartments for show are very sumptuous, and possess great chastity of decoration. The eating hall is richly furnished with massy silver utensils ; and the orchestra, which is cased with silver, has a most striking effect. The walls of the best apartments are covered with silk tissue, of various designs, and great richness. Some of the furniture, however, presents a strangely inconsistent contrast to the per- mament decorations. The chairs are of common ash or beech, and the long table of deal. The collection of paintings is fine, several by Rubens, Vandyke, Corregio, Teniers, and other great masters. There is a remarkably fine picture of our Charles I., by Vandyke, in a different costume from any other portrait of that un- fortunate monarch, by the same master ; it possesses all the ease and elegance of that artist. The picture of Buonaparte crossing the Alps, by David, is a fine piece ; the attitude of the principal figure is admirably executed, but there is a glare about it, as a whole, which is characteristic of the modern French school. Many of these pictures are so excellent, that I wondered they, as well as the silver utensils, had not been taken away by the French, when they were here. I hinted my surprise at it to my conductor, who indignantly said, " they were all sent away before the Spitzbiihe (the rogue or sharper) came, or he would have stolen them." The animosity of all classes here, towards the French, is excessive ; perhaps as much from the mortified vanity which was wounded by the defeat of Jena, as from the atrocious conduct in which the French officers indulged themselves. The borders round the pictures, instead of splendid frames, have mean narrow bands only, which have a miserable effect. Except the show apartment^, the rest of the palace is in BERLIN. 197 a neglected state, many of the external parts of the qiiadranojc needing repairs very much. It is a large pile of building, 460 feet in length on one side, and 430 on the other; the breadth is 276 feet, and it is 101 feet in height. The architectural beauty of it, as a whole, is very considerable, but the houses in front of it are too near to admit of its being- seen to the best advantage. In Berlin the access to every branch of knowledge is easy; and the necessary expense very small. The University has, at present, nearly twelve hundred students, owing to circum- stances which have recently increased their number. The only expense to them is about fifteen shillings on matriculation ; and honoraria to the lecturers, on whom they attend, varying from fifteen shillings to forty-five, for the whole course. There are two terms in the year ; one from October to March, and the other from the beginning of April to the middle of August. The professors are classed under the heads of Divinity, Law, Physic, and Philosophy, and are all men of considerable eminence in their different departments. The students lodge ill private houses, within that district of the city in which the University stands, where they are provided with apartments and attendants, at low rates, varying from fifteen to eighteen shillings per month. The regulation of the University is under the control of the Rector, who is a judge in all the inferior matters that relate to it, is dignified with the title of Magni- ficent, and has a Syndic under him,' to assist in the adminis- tration of justice. There are five Gymnasiums or Academies, where excellent plans of instruction are pursued, and where the pupils are either prepared for the University, or for immediate entrance on the different walks they are to follow in their future course through life. 2 c 198 BERLIN. * Professional education is communicated in clinical, medical, surgical, and military schools. There are also schools for the deaf and dumb, and for the blind ; where those unfortu- nate persons are taught. Many private lectures are delivered during the winter season, on a variety of important subjects, by men of eminence, in the different branches, who are not connected with any of the public institutions. Among these have been the lectures of Bode on astronomy, Klaproth on chemistry, Huefland on longevity, Mursinna on operative surgery and midwifery, and Von Thaer on agriculture. An institution is established for instructing those who are destined to become parochial schoolmasters. The number of establish- ments for the education of young people of both sexes, is as great as in any city in Europe. J, The charity schools, for the gratuitous instruction of the poor, are numerous ; and, in proportion to the population of the city, far greater, probably, than in any other capital in Europe. The manufactories of Berlin are very considerable in num- ber, and some few in comparative extent. The china has been long celebrated ; it is made on account of the govern- ment. A beautiful service, presented by his Majesty to the Duke of Wellington, was packing to send to England. The quantity annually made is about 360,000 pieces ; the value of which amounts to 150,000 rix-dollars, of which, nearly one-half is sold to foreigners. The fine manufactures executed by governments can scarcely ever be made sources of profit, nor, I believe, is this. It is expected to be rendered profitable by some recent discoveries in the art of glazing earthenware, without the assistance of any metallic substance. Various utensils of this kind are now made, calculated for the apotiie- BERLIN. 199 caries, for cookery, for plates, dishes, and otlier ordinary domestic purposes ; and the demand for them beini^ consider- able, sanguine expectations are entertained of beneficial conse- quences. The prices of each article of porcelain is fixed, and printed lists delivered, so that purchasers are saved from all apprehensions of imposition. Each visitor pays about a shilling to see the process, which, I believe, is applied to form a fund for the old and invalid working people of the establish- ment. The whole number is about three hundred, and the wages, even to the inferior kind of artists, who are employed in painting the china, is very low. t.jiMsi. A manufactory in Berlin, which excited greater interest, and drew more attention from me, than any other, was, that of stone printing, carried on by the government, under the direction of Major Von Reiche, to whom I had the pleasure of being introduced by a friend, and who has succeeded better than any of those who have made attempts in the litho- graphic art in England. The Major first made the attempt on his own account, upon a small scale ; but the advantages of it soon became so apparent, that it was converted into a royal establishment, upon an extensive plan ; and is become one of the economical resources of this most economical of all govern- ments. The presses differ little, either in their form, or in the accuracy or expedition of their execution, from the copper-plate presses used in England. The stone, from which the impression is taken, about six inches in thickness, is a hard lime-stone, approximating to marble. It is first brought to a smooth surface, and polished by the friction of pumice-stone and sand, and thus prepared to receive the requisite inscription. There are two modes of proceeding adopted ; one of which is very simple, and very expeditious. The writing is made on 2 c 2 200 BERLIN. the stone, wit!i an inlcy composition, compounded with gum arable, amber, butter, and some other substances, which are im- penetrable to aqua-fortis. When the letters are thus written, the whole stone is sponged over with a mixture, the basis of which is aqua-fortis, which eats quickly into those parts of the stone that are not covered with the fatty composition. The writing is left on the stone, and it is thus prepared for printing. The whole operation is speedily executed, and was, indeed, performed, whilst I was in the apartment. The kind of print- ing from this mode of preparing the stone, is principally used in books for regimental accounts, muster-books, store-books, and other purposes connected with military aflPairs, where only division lines are required, and a few words written at the head of the columns, formed by those lines. I saw one stone of this description, with merely columns and heading-words, from which three hundred thousand impressions had been taken. ' The other kind of printing from stone seems more applicable to the purposes of maps, plans of towns, or fortifications, and fields of battle, and is principally used in this establishment for preparing them. It is engraved on the stone, which is previously covered thinly with a fatty composition, with a style, used in the manner of a pencil ; and this part is executed with great dispatch, as well as accuracy. The finer parts are engraved with a diamond, similar to that used by glaziers, but brought to a sharper point; very common artists can perform this work; when ready for the purpose, the biting liquor is applied in a manner similar to tliat used by our aquatinta engravers. If any error in the engraving is made, the part is scraped off, and the error rectified by a new impression lieing made on the stone. The surfiace of the part corrected is thiLS BERLIN. 201 somewhat below tlie level of the stone, and in rolling ofl' the impressions, a small piece of leather is placed on the paper in that part, and tiie alteration is quite invisible. The merit of this invention arises as well from its cheapness as its expedition, the saving in the printing is full one half, and hence it is universally applied to military accounts ; and as soon as the requisite extension can be effected, it will be carried into the financial and other departments. The expedition of this work is such, that Major Von Reiche shewed me a whole length portrait of the King, thirty inches high, and eighteen broad, which had been executed in fourteen days ; which he said would occupy years for an engraver on copper. The effect is very good, and there is a softness in the impressions, which has never yet been equalled by en- graving either in the line, mezzotinto, or aquatinta method. Moveable presses, in a small compass, have been contrived here with great ingenuity, adapted to accompany an army to the field, by which all necessary printing may be dispatched with great celerity and precision. Many minute circumstances necessarily engage the close attention of the operators, and much circumspection is necessary, which seems to be ad- mirably supplied by the intelligent director before named, to whose polite attention I feel much indebted. This esta- blishment is carried on in the splendid-looking palace, belong- ing to the late Prince Ferdinand, the King's uncle, in the finest square in the city, the Wilhelm Platz, where are the statues of the great Prussian heroes, Schwerin, Winterfeld, Seidlitz, Keith, and Ziethen. The system of the Prussian government, has always been that of manufacturing at home every thing consumed within the kingdom ; of buying from others nothing tliat can 202 BERLIN. be dispensed with; and of selling whatever can be spared. This system, though in opposition to every sound principle of political economy, which teaches to buy wherever purchased can be made cheapest, and to make that only which can be manufactured at home as cheap or cheaper than in foreign countries, and which can be justified to the extent it is carried here bv no result founded on experience, has been the foundation on which the manufactories of Berlin have been erected, and on which they now almost wholly depend. A3 scarcelv any competition exists, but with their own countrymen, there is little inducement to adopt the inventions of other nations or to exercise their own faculties in perfect- in": their fabrics ; none of them have kept pace with those of other countries. As almost the whole Prussian dominions are manufacturing countries, and are supplied by their own domestic labour, on native materials, with those articles whose everv-day consiunption forms the greatest amount of what is consumed by the middle and lower classes ; the manufactories of the capital are almost exclusively devoted to supply luxuries for the higher orders of the community. In point of extent, the woollen manufactory carried on at the royal storehouse by ^Messrs. Woolf, is the most considerable, and good machinery is used. But in spite of the excellence of the blue dve, arising, it is said from some properties which the water of the Spree is supposed to contain, and though they have now the tine wool at hand which they have beneficially substituted for Spanish, their products are so inferior to those of Flanders and of England, that nothing but the kind of monopoly which they and their neighbours enjoy, can enable them to dispose of their goods to a profit. I must, however, acknowledge, that the cloths of Berlin are much improved of BERLIN. 203 late years, and some thin ones of fine wool are good ; but the cassimeres are still very far inferior to ours. Besides this great house, there are twelve or fourteen others^ very respectable, and several upon an inferior scale. The quantity of silk goods manufactured in Berlin is very considerable, they are, however, inferior both in design and quality to those of Lyons. Cottons, hats, gloves, hosiery, shoes and boots are all inferior to ours ; cutlery, ironmongery, and glass-ware are the same ; and many of the minuter articles, such as needles, pins, and a thousand others, which every hour present themselves, are awkwardly and clumsily made. It would be unpardonable after these derogatory remarks, not to state some of those commodities, in which the fabrics of Prussia excel. The linens, and especially their damask table cloths and napkins, yield to none in any part of Ger- many, and are far superior, not perhaps to what may be made, but to what are usually seen from Dunfermline, and other northern parts of our island. The cabinet ware in most houses discovers great taste, both in the forms and in the gilded ornaments ; and though more commonly of native woods than of those from the warm climates, yet the mode of polishing and finishing them, whilst they are very cheap, makes them appear handsomer than much of our mahogany furniture, which costs a price very far above it. Gilding is remarkably well and durably executed, and very profusely displayed in the houses of people of fashion. The durability may be greater than ours, from the climate being less moist and foggy than in England. Some beautiful orna- ments of iron are made, which receive impressions with a distinctness equal to wax, and by some chemical preparation are preserved from rust. The gold and silversmiths' work is 204 BERLIN. very tastefully executed, and on reasonable terms. I was also informed, that in some of the chemical preparations for the 7nateria mecUca, for the use of manufacturers, for the fine arts, and for philosophical experiments, they excel other nations. From the quarter in which I received this communication, I have no reason to doubt it, though I am incapable of fgiving my own opinion on the subject, not having seen either {the process or the productions. In this, however, I must except that beautiful oxid of iron, known by us as Prussian blue, which in our variable climate, can never be made to that certain degree of excellence which it can here, where the weather is more regular. The whole number of workmen employed in all the manufactures in Berlin in the year 1817, .were 34,210, including apprentices. Those of them with •whom I conversed, lamented very sadly the deadness of all ' business. The commerce of Berlin consists in sending its manufac- tures to the other parts of the kingdom, and drawing from thence the supplies for its own consumption. This is con- siderable, especially since Prussia has added to her dominions the territories on the Rhine, whence the capital is supplied with wine, charged with lower duties than that imported from foreign countries. The luxuries of the East and West Indies which are required for the supply of the capital, generally pass through Hamlnirg, and are conveyed up the Elbe till it joins the Havel, into which tlie Spree runs. There is n\uch intercourse between the capital and the other territories carried on by the canals and rivers. Tlie building of barges for this inland navigation, is a considerable employment to many persons on the banks of the river. An nicorporatcd company, engaged in trade of various kinds, called BERLIN. 20.5 the Scchandlungs society has its agents and oflices at Dantzic and Hamburg, and sometimes its oi)erations are considerable ; but as Berlin is not a commercial city, there is no spirit of enterprise, and no great efforts directed to make it become one. The places of public amusement in Berlin are as numerous and as various as in other great cities, but 1 found so much polite and intelligent society each evening, that I had no inclination to seek for, or visit them. I went once to the theatre, and sqmv Schiller's fine play, the death of Wallenstein, admirably performed. As the German theatre, which was burnt down is not yet rebuilt, the company have the use of the edifice usually occupied by the Italian opera. The house is large, and well decorated, but imperfectly lighted, except on the stage. The boxes and the part of the pit nearest the stage, are appropriated to annual subscribers, so that casual visitors must sit at such a distance, as to hear the performers very indistinctly. The public walks, both in the city and in its vicinity, have nothing very striking to recommend them. I had seen them formerly at a more favourable season, and even then they by no means excited admiration. I only now viewed the park with- out the Brandenbourg gate, and the palace of Charlottenburg, at which it terminates ; and in which is the sumptuous monu- ment to the memory of the late Queen ; which, however, I did not see, it being open only on the day of her death, the nineteenth of each month. A small duty is collected by the corporation of the city on all provisions brought into it ; and having met with a return of the number in 1802, it may shew the proportionate con- 2 D 206 BERLIN. sumption between it and other great towns, where the tacts are accurately ascertainable. Oxen . 22,107 Butter . . . 16,761 hundred. Cows 8,747 Cheese . . 2,305 hundred. Calves . . 46,020 Meat, including bacon, 57G cwt. Sheep . . 159,107 Wine . . . 4,749 hogsheads. Lambs 5,816 Brandy . . . 49,283 gallons. Goats 204 Sugar . . 4,160 cwt. Swine . . . 53,720 Coffee . . . 11,495 cwt. Sucking pigs 2,145 Tea . . . 6,600 pounds. Bucks 345 Tobacco 6,145 cwt. Fawns . . 1,374 Corn . . . . 214,737 quarters. Wild Swine . 114 Meal and floiu- . 168,160 bushels. Hares . . 6,366 Fire wood 44,206 heaps, some Herrings . 4,358 tons. what largei than two of our cords. Eggs . . . . 15,760 score. I have here reduced the measures and weights as far as was necessary to our English denominations. At that period, the population, including the military, was about one hundred and forty-five thousand. For the sake of any person who may try to make a comparison of the consumption of various articles in different large cities, I think it right to observe, that as far as I could judge from those I saw, the oxen and cows weigh full one third less than the average of those brought to the London markets ; that the calves do not Aveigh half so much, the sheep one-fifth less ; but the swine are nearly of the same size, or somewhat larger. In London, it is impossible to ascertain the consumption of any but exciseable commodities, and every estimate can be only an approximation to the truth. The quantity of sheep and lambs sold in Smithfield annually, according BERLIN. 20,7 to the market returns, amounts to about 1,200,000; go that, supposing the meat brouglit to Berlin is principally mutton, the consumption of it is not much less than in London, in proportion to its population. In Berlin, it is much more used by the poor than by the rich. The proportion between sugar and coffee will appear very unnatural ; but honey is an abundant production in Germany, and, as well as molasses, is used by the poor as a substitute for sugar. The quantity of brandy is very small, considering the extensive use of it that prevails ; but there are, within the walls, no less than one hundred and forty-three distillers of spirits from grain. In the account, there is no notice taken of beer. I am not sure that it is subject to the octroi ; if it be, the fact of there being forty- two breweries within the city will account for its omission. The fish is not stated, except that which is salted ; yet the market is very well supplied with that species of food, though it is too dear for the tables of the poor. The lakes and rivers abound with fish ; but the expense and risk of bringing them to the capital is considerable. If they die, they cannot be exposed for sale. The fish-market has fixed tanks, and some- times moveable tubs, filled with water, in which variety of river fish are seen alive. The city is most copiously and cheaply supplied with fruit, and many barges are constantly to be seen at the wharfs, with apples stowed in bulk. The city contained, in 1817j a population of 174,428 Pro- testants of both communions, 4,258 Catholics, 2 Mennonites, and 3,690 Jews. The number of burials in that year were 5,646, of marriages 2,181, and of births 6,987. In the latter number is included 1,395 illegitimate children. The inhabitants of the suburbs, who amounted to 7,944, are not included m this enumeration. The proportion of those inhabitants, divided 2 D 2 208 BERLIN. into religious sects, was eleven Lutherans to one Calvin ist ; the Calvinists doubled in number the Catholics. The Jews were about half as numerous as the Catholics, and the other sects were very insignificant. The royal family and court profess the Calvinistic religion. The King has been anxious to unite the two protestant sects, and has succeeded in forming a kind of junction, by which they have become, for some pur- poses, one ecclesiastical establishment, under the denomination of the evangelical. They are, however, still under distinct superintendents or bishops, three of whom are Lutheran, and one, however inconsistent with the usual aversion of the sect to inequality in its pastors, is Calvinistic. This union of the two communions, which was, undoubtedly, designed by the King, to remove all religious animosities, is said to have spread still wider a spirit of indifference upon sacred subjects, the too great prevalence of which was before felt and lamented by the wisest and best men in the country. In this union of parties, however, no great concessions of principles to which they were attached was necessary on either side.(i' The distinguishing tenet of the Lutherans, and that which is contained in their symbolical books, to which the clergy profess adherence, is the doctrine of the real presence of the body and blood of Christ, in the bread and wine, in the sacrament of the Lord's Supper. This tenet, thougli it has been ever the profession of the Lutheran church, has been long abandoned by almost the whole of its ministers, who, though they may have differed as to the nature of that sacrament, as some of the most distinguished ornaments of our own church have done, have, in no recent instance, advocated that opinion of the great reformer, usually designated by the term consub- stantiation. The Reformed or Calvinistic ministers had, like BERLIN. 209 their brethren of the Lutheran party, little to give up. Tixeir distinguishing- tenets of predestination, election, perseverance, and impelling grace, were passed by in their public services as obsolete dogmas never to be introduced ; and it was generally understood, that for a century past, they have been scarcely entertained by any considerable number of the clergy. The superiority of episcopal ordination to that by ministers or presbyters, happened never to have formed a subject of con- troversy ; and as to the form of church government, they seemed to unite in the opinion, that, as the founders of their faith had communicated no commands on the subject, it was left to each country to form such as best suited its general civil polity. Though the union between the two communions is to a certain extent effected, so that the clergy may officiate indis- criminately in the churches of both sects, and the hearers join in the worship of each indifferently, yet for the purposes of charity, and of education, and in the distribution of the sums arising from the endowments on their churches, hospitals, and schools, they still have, and must continue to have separate administrations ; and as this was before the most obvious line of distinction between the sects, the union that has been effected is not imagined to have had any other practical effect, but that of making the common people think religious worship under any form, as much a matter of indifference, as this union thus easily effected, shows that different opinions are to their teachers. It cannot be denied, nor ought it to b?j concealed, that many of the clergy of both sects, had given up not only the peculiar doctrines of their respective churches, but even the christian faith itself; and that to such a degree, that even our avowed 210 BERLIN. Socinians would by them b6 considered as equally credulous with the orthodox clergy. The mysterious doctrines which have long, and very justly, been denominated the doctrines of the Reformation, were continued in their catechisms, and other books for the instruction of the young, and in the psalms and hymns used in the public service ; but had almost ceased to be alluded to mi the prayers or sermons of the clergy. The irreligion of Frederick, of Voltaire, and of Lessing, had made much progress before the commencement of the French re- volution ; that event furthered its increase ; and the general subjection to the imperial ruler made religion, if not a matter of contempt, at least of indifference. The clergy imbibed the sceptical philosophy, and carried it to an extent far beyond what it has ever reached among any of our sectaries, who have wished to retain the name of Christians. The belief in miracles is so distinguishing a line betwixt infidelity and revealed religion, that the teachers could not with any decency deny their existence, and still hold their ecclesiastical character; but they symbolized them in such a way, as to leave their auditors uncertain whether the various miraculous facts, recorded in the New and Old Testaments, were occurrences that actually took place, or merely figurative relations of other events which happened naturally, and according to the usual course of affairs. Thus the miraculous draught of fishes, would by their mode of illustrating it, be nothing more than a much greater degree of success in fishing, than was usually experienced, which is thus recorded to excite gratitude to the great Giver of all good things. The miraculous increase of the loaves and fishes, the healing the sick, and other similar fiicts, were treated in the same manner. They were not denied, but so BERLIN. 2 1 1 represented, as to leave the auditors to infer either that they were real events correctly recorded, or beneficial fictions to illustrate tiie divine goodness, as might best accord with the previous views of the auditors. The love of paradox, and the desire of distinction, seem to have excited a degree of rivalry among the clergy in wild and absurd speculations. Thus one of them who calls himself a christian, who professes to believe in the authenticity, if not the inspiration, of the Scriptures, has published a work to prove that our Saviour did not ascend to heaven, nor did his disciples believe that he had so ascended ; but lived twenty-five years in retirement, having occasional intercourse with them. He contends, that what is rendered " a cloud received him," should be, a fog in- tercepted their vision. With a most abundant display of critical acumen, and of great knowledge of the Greek language, he has defended this absurd fancy. This ac- count of the work I had from a very respectable clergy- man, who lamented over the wanderings of his brethren, and had an intention of replying to this piece of folly, which he assured me, had met with very extensive circulation among the learned, but was too abstruse to produce any mischief with others. The resurrection of our Lord, a fact upon which the whole of the external testimony of our faith rests, was either neglected or disbelieved by those who were the public in- structors, and who confined their teaching to such moral topics, as could be enforced from motives of a social nature, rather than from the more powerful one of a future strict account. The natural effect of this infidelity among the clergy, was to produce indifference among their hearers ; and the churches, which especially in the cities bore no due proportion to the .2J2 BERLIN. population, became almost deserted by all but the old and the lower classes; and the latter, in imitation of their superiors, were gradually declining in their attendance. Among many men of pious feelings, and of much learning, this aberration of the protestant ministers, which they carefully marked and regretted, had the effect of withdrawing them from their com- munions, and reconciling them to the Catholic church. The church of Rome has, in consequence, received into her bosom several members from the Protestant religion, who are distin- guished for their virtue, their talents, and their learning. It has been remarked among the more uninformed people, especially those of warm imaginations, that in proportion as Christianity has been less endeared to them, and less venerated, they have been falling into the most degrading superstitions. Confidence in animal magnetism, in fortune-tellers, in visions, and mock revelations, have increased to an extent which would be scarcely credible, without good evidence, and if we did not know that the mind cannot be a blank, but in the absence of impressions from true religion will receive without hesi- tation the most degrading stamp that superstition can imprint. Scepticism may exist in some few minds, but the majority of our race can never long be in a state of doubt; and if they become unbelievers on some points, will not be the less credulous on others. The Germans are naturally ardent and enthusiastic, and with such feelings, when not corrected and restrained by the doctrines of reasonable faith, easily receive the most wild and fanciful impressions. The remarks I have made on the state of religion in Prussia, I am sorry to think, are in a greater or less degree applicable to the whole of the Protestant states of Ger- many, and more especially to those, which, like Hanover, BERLIN. 313 Brunswick, and Cassel, formed a part of the kingdom of Westphalia ; but they refer much less to the kingdom of Saxony, where the court having adopted the Catholic religion, whilst almost all the subjects are Protestants, the latter have been more sedulous in maintaining their adhesion to their primitive faith. « ' ^ The different princes of Germany have become alarmed at the progress of infidelity among their people, and have taken some measures to reclaim them from the errors into which they have been betrayed. The different consistories have taken a tone from the governments, and have in some measure, been treading back their steps. The higher classes affect to treat religion with a degree of respect, from which if they had never deviated, their inferiors would not have gone the length they have in many instances done. In appointing professors in the universities, in the theological branch, regard has been had to those, who were supposed most likely to lead the pupils to the orthodox faith, and to guard them from the errors which have recently spread. u^ In looking at the ecclesiastical establishments of these coun- tries, it is impossible not to contrast them with our own, both in their principles and effects. The obvious defects of these establishments is the want of sufficient independence, and the too great equality of the clergy. Instead of being a class of men existing upon rewards for their labours, which are derived from a species of property exclusively appropriated for the support of the church, which keeps pace with the fluctuations of other property, and of which the body cannot be deprived, they are in some degree stipendaries of the government ; and peculiarly subservient to it, since the alterations in the value 2 E 214 BERLIN. of commodities, has made an increase in their salaries desirable. This alone tends to degrade the whole body, and to lessen any beneficial influence they may be disposed to exert. The chief evil, however, appears to me to arise from the great equality of ranks among them. It is not that the whole revenue of the church is too small, so much as from there being no great inducements to aim at distinction in their own pro- fession, that makes them wander into extravagancies. A pastor can never rise much higher, and the prospect of rising at all is very slight; hence, instead of adhering to the faith of his church, which he must do if he hoped to rise in it, he indulges in speculations, which lead him to wild opinions, and bewilder his auditors in the same perplexing maze. If the whole revenues of the English church were equally divided among all its ministers, the remuneration to each would be less, considering the relative value of money, than is re- ceived by the Lutheran clergy in Germany. In England, the unequal division gives to some of the clergy establishments, of a princely nature, which become objects of laudable ambition to men of the most distinguished rank, or the greatest learning. The church is a receptacle for those of the first connexions, and is therefore treated with a respect beyond what some of high rank would feel towards it, if their own family did not form a part of it. It is generally supposed, that the whole revenues of the English church are by no means equal to the expenditure of all its clergy, but that their private fortunes, or their labour as instructors of youth, forms a material |)ortion of their incomes. The importance given to the profession induces men to enter it, not as the mere M^ BERLIN. 315 means of existence, but as givin<^ a claim to a certain esti- mation in society, and creating a rank which will enable them at all times to be on a footing of respectability. There ai'e always thirty peers of the realm, who must once have been curates or rectors ; and they with the other dignitaries certainly raise the whole body of the clergy. The estimation in whicli they are held in society gives a weight to their examples, their instructions, their warnings, and their consolations, which they would not possess, if, like the Protestant clergy of Germany, they were all taken from the middle and lower ranks of life, and from their stations, had no intimate and natural access to the higher classes of society, and no possibility from any professional promotion of reaching it. In England, the clergy are the connecting link that bind together the different ranks of individuals, and bring into contact and union, classes that could not be otherwise so well united. This is not indeed, so obvious in London and other large cities, as it is in smaller towns, and in country villages ; but every observer of society among us, will see and acknowledge, that a class of men drawn from all the various ranks, and distri- buted among all the different descriptions, of the community, the specific objects of whose profession, is to inculcate virtue and diffuse religious knowledge, really are, as they naturally must be, more successful, than if connected only with a single class. The clergy of Germany are mostly the sons of the lower classes of tradesmen, and farmers, and sometimes of clergy- men. They receive an education almost gratuitous, enter on a parish benefice with very moderate stipends, from their family alliances have no connexion witii the higher ranks, and their profession does not, as with us, raise them to an equality 2 E2 216 BERLIN. with those classes. They know but little of the world are unfit for any practical application of their talents, and indulge in speculative dreams, heated by the national schwarmeri/, or visionary feelings, and not corrected by much association with those who mix in the business of active life. Besides the want of sufficient rank in the clergy, the decline of religion among the people may be attributed, in a great measure, to the want of some prescribed forms of public worship, which would attest and perpetuate the real doctrines of their faith, by constantly impressing them at every repetition of the service of the church. For want of this, the worship is as various as the mouths that pronounce it, and generally at variance with that part which is metrical, and therefore pre- scribed, and to which what remains of the ancient faith is principally owing. The king of Prussia is so sensible of this, that being pleased with what he saw in England, he has nomi- nated some ecclesiastical commissioners to prepare a iiturgy for the public service of the evangelical church. Nothing, however, has yet been produced, though the work has been three years in preparing, and it is said that some intractable difficulties present themselves, which cannot, ait present, be overcome. After what has been said of the Protestant church, it would be unjust not to add, that whatever may be the errors and heresies of the clergy, the great body of them, especially the rural pastors, are men of good morals, have a sympathy with the distresses of their poorer parishioners, console them in their sufterings, advise them in their difficulties, and, as far as their narrow means extend, relieve them when in want. As this was a subject to which, in almost every village, I directed my attention, and, as my informants were generally the farmers, BERLIN. 217 I j^ive the result of my inquiries with more confidence than if I had derived it from the higher orders only. -,; au.,; In Berlin, there is no compulsory law for the maintenance of the poor, nor is such a provision made for them in any part of Germany, as we have, unfortunately, established. As there is no check on benevolent feelings, created by a legal provision, spontaneous charity is most abundantly exercised, and the workhouses and hospitals for the relief of the sick, the aged, and the destitute, are both numerous, well endowed, and economically administered. The charity-schools, belongino- to different churches, as well Sunday as others, are very numerous. There are several houses for the reception of orphans, and hospitals, which receive annually several thou- sand patients. Besides these charitable institutions, others of a provident nature have been founded, by which, on the payment of certain annual sums, the widows of officers, clergymen, civil officers, and many others, receive pensions, after the death of their husbands. I do not believe that any capital in Europe exceeds Berlin in the number and variety of its bene- volent institutions, designed to afford relief to the various kinds of distress to which man is subject. 'fr'»iflfh In speaking of that social intercourse which assumes in every place a somewhat different character, but, on which, if not on its mode, much of the happiness of life depends, I can only state, what occurred to my observation, in the circles to which I had access. After the first introduction, there is little ceremony, and no constraint ; parties meet at certain houses, on given nights, where conversation is the principal amuse- ment, where cards, or chess sometimes, and music occasion- ally, forms a part of the entertainment. There are, however, I was informed, other houses, some of which play, and, in 218 BERLIN. others, music may be said to form, not the amusement, but the business of the company. Wherever I was introduced, I found the conduct of the hostess was easy, polite, and hospita- ble. The refreshments were slight, and confined to tea, coffee, and cakes, with occasionally negus or puncli, and were evidently considered by the company as sec(Hidary_obj^c^s* The general tone of the conversations, which were carried on in groups, was intelligent and well-bred, and with much more of discussion than of disputation. I was frequently both surprised and pleased at the knowledge displayed by the ladies on subjects which they had borrowed from our best books of travels and voyages, a species of reading which they seemed mucii to deliglit in, and for which, of late years, they all most thankfully acknowledge themselves indebted to the enterprise and spirit of our countrymen. There are scarcely any works of our English travellers which are not immediately translated into the German language, and read with avidity by those who cannot understand, or cannot afford to buy the originals. English is, however, very much read, especially by the rising generation ; and many are acquainted with our literature, who never attempt to speak the language, or to understand it when it is spoken to them. Almost the only circumstance by which I ever felt annoyed in good company, was, when some person, who had read much English, and fancied they could pronounce it, has addressed me in a language meant to be ours, but which was unintelligible to me. It would have been too rude to say, their English was so badly pronounced, that I understood their German better, though I was often tempted to make the remark. The prevalence of the English language is checked by two circumstances, which arc not likely to be speedily, if ever BERLIN. 219 changed. Our books are very ex.pensive, principally from the superiority of the printing and the paper. The, Ger- mans are a frugal people, and, in their luxuries, of which books are the chief, they carry their parsimonious habits to a great extent ; hence tJie books they publish are on wretched paper, and the types are, if possible, still worse, but as they are purchased for the sake of their contents, and not for their beauty, their appearance, though coarse and homely, satisfies their readers. Some few of our more popular works are reprinted, but the majority of readers are obliged to content themselves with translations of the greater part. Another obstacle to the more general diffusion of English conversation, is the want of masters who speak it correctly, or without foreign accent, I believe there is not a single teacher of English in Berlin, who is a native of England. Education of every kind here is cheap ; lessons of music and drawing are not paid for at the rate of more than eight-pence or ten-pence each hour, and the teachers of our tongue can scarcely obtain so much. These are prices, at which no native of England, competent to the task, will engage his time and attention, and there are not a sufficient number of pupils who will pay a better price to give employment to a master. One unfortunate person, who, from some treasonable practices, at the early stage of the French Revolution, was compelled to live out of England, was patronised by the royal family, and con- trived to earn his bread by teaching. He is now dead, and no other master is established in his room. I seldom heard any French conversation in Berlin. It was evidently avoided, and only used when there were Englishmen present who did not speak German. 220 BERLIN. It is a fortunate circumstance, as far as a taste for conversa- tion is concerned, that there are few newspapers published here, and that their contents occupy but a small portion of attention in the social circles. When so many papers -are published as in London, and are so universally read, it too often happens, that conversation, instead of presenting the ideas which have sprung up in the minds of the speakers is only a repetition of something they have gleaned in their daily perusal, and which, having been seen there by the rest of the company, has neither novelty nor individuality to recommend it. The literary journals, which are here produced are numer- ous, and certainly give a tinge to the conversation, but as they are not quoted so near to the period of their publication, as when the ideas originate from a daily paper, the interval is sufficient to allow of some reflections being imbibed, besides those which the periodical writing has supplied. The admiration of Shakspeare is in Berlin, and indeed throughout Germany, carried to an extent which is very gratifying to our national taste. Schlegel has pointed out his beauties with so much discriminating genius, and has, in his contrasts between him and the other modern poets, so exalted him, that when the name of Shakspeare is uttered, I have always been prepared for, and not frequently disap- pointed of hearing a quotation from Schlegel. Milton is a great favourite, and Young in some degree ; but I thought it a proof of improvement in the taste of this city, that Ossian, who was formerly the greatest favourite, was now seldom named. At the period of my former visit, too, the philosophy of Kant, and the poetry of Wciland, were much in vogue in the society of some literary ladies to which I was introduced ; but in the parties now, they were never spontaneously named. BERLIN. 221 and when I wished to know the views of this generation, I found both ihese authors considered as obsolete. Of our present poets, I think Walter Scott seemed to be preferred ; his bustling battle scenes are much to the taste of the Germans, and they generally agreed, that his writings were more intelligible to them, than those of Lord Byron. I met, however, one lady, the daughter of Baron K^ , who was a most enthusiastic admirer of the noble peer, who had studied him in the original, who thoroughly understood him, and pre- ferred his works to every thing English, except the immortal Shakspeare. As the taste of this lady was not of the common cast, so neither was hers the common opinion of the merits of the two writers. Southey is less read than I should have expected. His " Curse of Kehania" is in the taste which Ger- many valued twenty years ago, but seems of late to have aban- doned ; and his " Roderick, the last of the Goths," has not been so widely known in Germany, as it deserves to be ; where I heard it mentioned, it was with decided, but not rapturous applause. Of their own recent poets, I think Schiller is by far the most highly prized ; perhaps, I ought to except Klopstock, but he was certainly less spoken of in the circles I visited, than he was formerly. In such mixed societies as I have spoken of, almost every subject that can interest persons of taste and information, is at one time or other introduced ; and as most have some pur- suits of a literary nature, which engross their attention, there are few subjects in which some new, or apparently new thought is not communicated, and often pursued to the neglect of the common tattle which every city will afford. On the whole the state of that society of which I saw most, was good, and politics, the fruitful source of discord, were seldom mentioned. 2 F 222 BERLIN. but left to smaller circles of quidnuncs, where full scope was given to every wild and theoretic speculation, but without any factious intentions, or any design beyond mere specula- tion. In such companies I sometimes mixed, with great pleasure ; and thought the parties listened with attention to an Englishman, who; if not profound in his theories, might be thought to have acquired some little knowledge from living in the only country where they would allow that practical liberty existed. In the company of those men of letters who have assumed the appellation of Liberals, I heard much complaint of the want of a, constitution, and many censures on the King, who having, as they say, promised one, had not fulfilled his engagement. Among these gentlemen, I heard the acknowledgment cheer- fully made, that their own government was the most econo- mical in Europe ; that it was regular in all its details, faithful to all its engagements, and more desirous of preventing than of punishing crimes. I could never understand from such per- sons, whose acuteness, talent, and intelligence was consider- able, what kind of a constitution they desired, nor what materials they had in the country, either for erecting or main- taining such a fabric as they imagined to be necessary. I asked frequently, if it was possible to form in Prussia, a repre- sentative body, which while it asserted its own independence would define and maintain the necessary prerogatives of the monarch. The answers I received were such as convinced me that those who were most vehement for a change had the least contemplated the nature of the one they required. No two that I conversed with, could agree on even the pre- lin)inary step to what they all clamoured to obtain. If asked, whether they thought one or two chambers best; if the ^s / BERLIN. 223 upper chamber should consist of representatives chosen by all the noble families, or if the heads only of those families should be entitled to seats and votes : if asked, how the lower house should be erected ; if it should be chosen by the landed proprietors and the corporations of the cities, by the whole of the householders, or by the universal and equal suffrage of all persons at years of maturity ; it was easy to ascertain that none of these things had occupied their thoughts, or been even slightly adverted to. By the ancient constitution of all the territories of which Germany is composed, meetings of the states used to be held, to advise rather than to control the sovereigns. If the Liberals were asked, if such constitutions were the objects of their desire, and would satisfy their wishes ; it was clear that they speculated on some greater change, neither the progress nor issue of which they had ever con- templated. I found some desirous of a representative body founded on the basis of the population, and divided in proportion to it ; whilst some others were favourable to a representation on the basis of property. I endeavoured to show that in the present state of Prussia, the result must be the same in which ever way this project of representation was allotted among the inferior actors. The great mass of the population are husbandmen, residing on the lands of the greater nobles, to whom if they pay no rent, they pay some equivalent in feudal services. Among these copy-holders, it is not possible to extinguish all sense of the obligations they may receive from lenient lords, or of apprehension from offending severe ones. If a body of representatives are to be chosen by this, the majo- rity, they must necessarily choose their lords, some member of his family, or some person he may recommend; they have 2 f2 224 BERLIN. no knowledge of fit persons but through their information ; and if they had, they have none of that sturdy inde- pendence which would induce them to act in opposition to their wishes. .'omr^i'' >^'>?) tnit seems to me clear, that any representative body would in Prussia be a pure aristocracy, which might check the monarch, but would not elevate the people. Prussia is a military monarchy ; its nobles, who would be its represen- tatives, are themselves military men of high rank, or aspiring to high rank. Whatever corporation spirit such men might acquire by being associated together as a deliberating body, they would certainly have no great aversion to a war which might yield them fame or promotion, and no great sympathy with those who are subject to the conscription. They would be more likely to keep the army up to a high numerical standard, than to sacrifice their prospects of promotion, and their hopes of military glory out of regard to those whom they consider as born to be commanded, and who having ever lived under the system, they would contend, neither complained, nor had a right to complain, of its being continued. Any assembly that could be collected in Prussia from the elements that are to be found there, and by the voices that must choose them, would most probably become a body with an eager desire for war ; and would compel their monarch to employ them in hostilities against his weaker neighbours, Hanover, Saxony, and Brunswick; and thus would kindle a tiame which might become general over the civilized world. ^^If any thing resembling the British constitution could be introduced in Prussia ; if the king and his ministers would offer up a portion of the prerogatives of the monarchy ; if the BERLIN. 225 nobles would abandon a part of their privileges; and if, what is more improbable, the demagogues would retrench their wild, extravagant, and impracticable notions ; and if by these sacri- fices a free constitution could be framed ; yet the want of those supports which can only be created in a long course of time and by gradual steps, would deprive it of all prospect of durability. Our institutions, which support the general frame of our constitution, have grown up with it, and have created orders of men, such as could only be produced under those circumstances, and who, though they may bear the same name, are utterly unknown in Prussia, j jjj-.» .» ,.>.3^i; ^iiv^d i^ ui.iipJiJ The class from which the great number of our tnagistrate's are taken, the country gentlemen, who are neither nobles, military, nor legal men, is unknown. A body of merchants- and manufacturers, who by their capital give employment to numerous workmen, and who, like the country gentlemen, are too rich to be dependant on the smiles or frowns of the court, is not to be found in Prussia. 1 have already spoken of the church, which, unlike our own, is nearly dependant on the state. But above all, a body of lawyers acquainted with the constitution, and devoted to its support, as much by esprit cle corps as by their known duty, rising gradually from the employment of advocate to that of judge, and in the former capacity, qualifying themselves for the discharge of the duties of the latter, is very remote from the system in Berlin. There the practice of law is not deemed necessary previously to a man becoming a judge, and the knowledge required, is to be obtained by a course of lectures in the University, and an examination founded on them ; and not, as is the case with us, by twenty years' assiduous attendance in the courts of justice. -^ ' juj xo JioiJJoq u qu i^iio 226 BERLIN. The ablest advocate has no prospect of being elevated to the bench, nor is the highest of the profession, even in the capital, in a rank in society equal to that of many provincial attorneys in England. mfTv/o things have appeared to me of more importance than what they call a constitution, but of which, from none of the felamourers for it, could I obtain any definite description. Per- gonal security is essential to a moderate degree of national prosperity, and our Habeas Corpus may be considered the best step to solid improvement ; but, its importance seemed to me, not to be duly impressed on the minds of the German liberals. With us, the practical enjoyment of this right de- pends on the independence of our judges, whose high character cannot be created by the summary process in which it is here formed, or supported without emolument and rank, which the office does not confer. The military conscription, by which every young man, at the age of twenty-one, is compelled to serve in the army, is a tremendous evil ; but, from being familiarized to it, it is here much less a subject of complaint than many other evils which appeared to me of inferior moment. Prussia is indeed a military monarchy, and the support of her power depends on her armed force, as she is surrounded by powerful and jealous rivals ; but that state of society must be very bad, in which the armed force is so considerable, as to demand the service of the whole population. Great as is this evil, it is the last which would be cured by any of the projects for a constitution, which i have ever heard suggested in this country. In conversing on our institutions, which was an agreeable topic with many persons of good understanding, 1 found our BERLIN. 227 trial by jury was by no means a favourite. It was urged, that it was very absurd to bring together twelve men with dilFereut portions of intellect, with conflicting prejudices, under biases of various discordant natures, and to expect from them any unanimity of decision, which was not rather a compromise between right and wrong, than an enlightened and upright judgment. With an attachment, not to say pertinacity, such as all our countrymen feeU I urged the practical ett'ect which endeared the institution to us, and endeavoured to illustrate it in various ways ; but either my eloquence was feeble, or their regard to abstract theory was greater than to plain matters of fact ; and, though all applauded the institution of our grand juries, I found few who could see the full excellence of our common juries, especially in cases between man and man. - , p The number of authors in Berlin is very great : by a list, which I have seen, they amount to three hundred and eight, besides those at Potsdam, and in the other places of the king- dom. This arises principally from the very cheap rate at which a good education may be obtained in this country. In consequence of this. Universities are tilled with youths of a lower rank in society than are usually sent to Oxford and Cambridge ; and, as they lodge and eat in the towns, the tutors have little control over their studies, and still less over their religious principles or moral habits. - For a long period, there has existed among these students a spirit partaking of free-masonry and chivalry. They have been divided into orders of a kind of mock knighthood, and these different orders have imbibed so much of a singular kind of party feeling, that a young man, entering on a college course, is frequently compelled to fight some duels with one 228 BERLIN. party, that he may stand on good terms with the one into which he has enlisted himself. These duels, being fought with swords, and terminating as soon as blood is drawn, are seldom fatal ; though more than one family has to lament the loss of a hopeful youth, who, in such contests, has fallen a victim to this detestable spirit. When Germany rose against France, in what is called the War of Deliverance, the students from the Universities took up arms, and entered zealously into the cause of their country, and the chivalrous spirit fostered within their college circles was well directed to the defence of the nation. When peace was made, those who survived returned to their colleges, and there that enthusiasm which had been nurtured by war, and inflamed by the successful result with which it was crowned, was directed to political speculations, with a degree of ardour which left no room for any pursuit but that of re- medying the defects they imagined to exist in their own governments. It is difficult to convey to an English reader the enthusiastic feelings which prevail in Germany, especially among the young men. They have been naturally portrayed by Goethe, in the Sorrows of Werter, as far as relates to love ; but the same intensity is extended to other passions, and kindles emotions, and gives utterance to expressions as fervid and impassioned as any that are to be found in that extraordinary tale. These strong sensations became directed to politics, partly from the scenes in which the youths had been recently engaged, and partly from the stimulus applied by some of the professors, who, with more zeal than judgment, rather favoured political fury than scientific application. The governments have prohi- bited some of the orders in the Universities, but they only ''Berlin. 229 assumed a different and more general title, and increased in numbers. The assassination of Kotzebue, and the attempt to commit the same crime on the President Ibell, were more probably the eifects of the mad enthusiasm with which the two perpe- trators of the horrid acts were inspired, than of any con- certed and connected plan. However this may be, many of the professors did not express that horror of the transactions which every man, not heated by political metaphysics, natu- rally felt. Some even offered apologies, which, if they did not express, at least implied, admiration, and, in indirect terms, insinuated that the end justified the means. As it must appear singular, that a man like Kotzebue, who filled no political character, and was only supposed to be employed in composing comedies, should be selected as a victim. I narrate the particulars of the event as I received them from an intimate friend of his, with whom he had con- versed on the subject, a short time before his assassination. The Emperor of Russia had sent Kotzebue into Germany, and allowed him to address him without official intervention on a variety of subjects, literary as well as political. He wrote in French, and employed as his amanuensis, a young German, who wrote a distinct hand, but was acquainted with no other than his own language. Having finished a letter to the Em- peror, he left it with this person to make a fair copy. A word occurred so obscurely written, that the amanuensis could not make out the letters which composed it. He applied to a person who lodged in the same house for an explanation, who, seeing the subject of the letter, and knowing by whom it was written, and to whom addressed, was curious to take a copy, and, under some pretence, desired the amanuensis to leave it 2 G 230 BERLIN. for a short time, when he would give him the explanation ot the doubtful word. The interval was employed in extracting some portions of it ; these were soon handed about among the democratic party, and they, among themselves, kindled a flame, which heated their party against the writer in an immeasurable degree, and his murder, by one of them, was the consequence. I was disappointed in not seeing the copy of the whole letter which Kotzebue, who was aware of the storm raised against him, had given to my informant, who had sent it for perusal to a distant correspondent. I was assured that, as a whole, there was nothing that ought to have excited indignation ; and even the detached passages, which were surreptitiously obtained, and secretly handed about, contained no more strictures on the professors, or the students, than any impartial spectator might communicate, and not written in terms more severe than I have employed to place the same things before my English readers. The conduct of many of the students, and of some of the professors on this occasion, justified a severity of language, which, if the victim had lived, he would probably not have used. The family of the murderer was the object of their especial sympatiiy, whilst that of the victim was disregarded, and his memory loaded with the basest charges of every kind, which were probably false, but which, whether true or not, did not render the conduct of Sand less atrocious, nor that of his apologists less detestable. It was certainly high time, where such doctrines were taught as many avowed, that a thorough reform should take place. Several of the professors have been dismissed without any regard to their attainments in learning, when those attain- BERLIN. 231 ments had been prostituted or made subservient to political purposes. By a regulation among the dift'erent princes, those professors who have been dismissed for political intrigues from one university, cannot be received into another ; a regulation which, in Germany, has been stigmatized with every oppro- brious epithet that could be invented, but which every Englishman would applaud, if it were necessary to make similar enactments respecting Oxford and Cambridge. The number of students in the Universities of Germany is tnucli greater, in proportion to the population, and to the wealth of the country than in England. Hence the market for literature and literary acquirements, is overloaded with compe- titors, who, with a decent quantity of learning, and mediocrity of talent, (for great learning and extraordinary talents are sure to meet their reward,) cannot find situations that require their attainments. Many young men, after completing tlieir university career with honour, are glad to fill stations, the duties of which could be as well performed by youths of very common acquirements. The natural effect of there being a greater portion of learned education than the wants of the community demand, is that of lessening its value in the general estimation: hence the literary character is lower in Berlin than in London. The political influence of men of letters is but small beyond their own circles. They mix little with either the higher or the lower classes of society ; but form rather an insulated body, which might become the depository of all sorts of revolu- tionary projects, if there was any prospect that by the same liberty of the press as we enjoy, they could give vent to their speculations. The press though not rigidly, is carefully watched, and though theories of government are indulged 2 G 2 232 BERLIN. to a considerable extent, no invective or abuse can be pro- mulgated ; and mere theory without invective has little influence on the populace, who in every country, can only be roused by bold abuse and exaggerated representations. I by no means wish to intimate, that all the literary men have given their minds to wild political theories. I believe, that many are as cool in their judgments and in their conduct, as any men ; if they wish for reforms, it is only for such as are practicable, and they would not think even those de- sirable, unless they could be obtained by honourable and peaceable means. After this long account of Berlin, it will be obvious that I found it a very agreeable place. I found access to society easy, when it was seen that I was not fastidious ; a fault very commonly attributed to our countrymen in foreign coun- tries, and which may, in some measure, arise from being accustomed to various comforts, which habit has made almost necessary, and which seldom can be found in even the capitals on the Continent. Berlin is at present rendered a more agreeable residence to an Englishman, from the polite, attentive, and hospitable conduct of our ambassador, Mr. Rose, to whom every one who visits that city feels the warmest obligations ; and to whom I am happy to add my grateful acknowledgment to those of all others, who have been there. Under the Prussian government, there is an office in the department of the treasury, called the Statistical Bureau, where statements of the various classes of inhabitants, of the extent of the provinces, of tlieir productions, and other similar matters, are collected and arranged. The state of the finances, the income, expenditure, and debt. PRUSSIA. 233 like the collections at the statistical bureau, are open to the knowledge of the public ; so that under the absolute monarchy of Prussia, a great degree of notoriety is given to public affairs, and so far it approaches to, and is pro- ceeding towards, the establishment of the institutions of a free government. From the various documents open to general inspection, the view of the dominions of Prussia, which I here present, is taken. The whole of the Prussian states in 1817, contained a population of 10,536,571, of whom 5,244,308 were males, and 5,320,535 were females ; the marriages were 1 12,034, the deaths 306,484, and the births 454,031, of which 33,576 were illegitimate. The proportion of sexes born was twenty males, to nineteen females. The deaths, two in sixty-nine, were one male to thirty-three, and one female to thirty-six. Of the legitimate children that were born, two out of ten died in the first year ; of the illegitimate children, three out of every ten. The increase of the subjects of Prussia, may be thus stated for the last hundred and thirty years. On the death of Prince Frederick William in 1688, they were 1,500,000, at the death of King Frederick, in 1713, they were 1,620,000; at the death of Frederick William the First, in 1740, they were 2,200,000; at the death of Frederick the Second in 1786, they were 5,800,000 ; on the death of Frederick William the Second, and the accession of the present king in 1797, they were 8,700,000. The inhabitants at present, are distributed in the following manner : 234 PRUSSIA. In 26 cities of more than 10,000 inhabitants 836,079 136 of more than 3,500 and less than 10,000 765,936 194 between 2,000 and 3,500 inhabi- tants 508,933 407 between 1,000 and 2,000 . . 597,947 258 below 1,000 186,937 2,895,832 Villages and farms 7,640,739 10,536,571 The religious denominations, and the number of each were in 1817: Lutherans 6,064,379 Catholics . 4,023,513 Reformed 300,101 Jews 127,345 Mennonites 15,333 Moravians, Hussites, Socinians, and other small sects, about .... 6,000 10,536,571 The whole surface of Prussia, according to the measurement of Hofmann, is 5,034 German square miles, or 74,108,800 British statute acres ; being a little more than six acres, and three quarters to each human being, that subsists upon it. The inliabitants are divided into nobles, burghers, and pea- sants. The first class is subdivided into two, the higher and the lower nobles. The high nobility are those who were formerly PRUSSIA. 235 a kind of petty sovereigns, distinguished by the epithet mediatisirte/i, but whose independence is merged in the general government, The whole number of these families do not exceed fifty. The lower nobility amount to about 200,000, but their privileges have been gradually contracting ; and in the eye of the law, they are only equal to the other inhabitants, but have some preferable claims to certain offices in the army, the state, and the church. The burghers are the inhabitants of towns, who are not noble, and either carry on some trade, or possess houses within the towns. The power of the different guilds over the burghers, has been of late diminished ; so that now they may carry on whatever business they please, without those restrictions which formerly confined them to particular lines of exertion. The peasants in Prussia as well as in some other parts of Germany were formerly slaves, like those of Russia, and like them were sold with the land ; but their condition has gradually improved, and during the reign of the present king, the last vestiges of this barbarism have been removed. The final abolition of personal slavery in the whole of the provinces, was not decreed till September, 1811 ; and though the war, that soon after occurred, suspended in part the practical operation of the law, the peasantry have availed themselves of it, to some extent, and it will be gradually acted upon when agriculture becomes again flourishing, till the whole of this description, amounting to more than two thirds of the population, will feel the important benefit. The peasantry can now purchase lands, and many of them have already availed themselves of the advantage conferred by this extension of practical freedom. The Prussian dominions are divided into those provinces, which are within Germany, and form a portion of the German 236 PRUSSIA. confederation, and tliose which have no connexion with that alliance. The German Prussian provinces are Brandenburg Pomerania Silesia Saxony Westphalia Juliers, Cleeves, and Berg . . The Lower Rhine Prussian Provinces out of Germany East Prussia West Prussia Posen Extent in British statute acres. Number of Inbabi- tants. Capitals. 11,025,280 8,331,520 10,598,400 6,663,040 5,534,720 2,325,760 4,039,360 10,333,440 6,844,800 7,919,360 73,615,680 1,297,795 700,766 1,992,598 1,214,219 1,074,079 935,040 972,724 919,580 581,971 847,800 10,536,571 Berlin. Stettin. Breslau. Magdeburg. Miinster. Cleeves. Coblentz. Kcinigsberg. Dantzic. Posen. The difference betwixt the detailed statement of the number of acres in each province, and that given before as the general result, may be accounted for by the great rivers and lakes, which are the boundary lines of several of the provinces ; and whose surface is included in the general calculation, but necessarily omitted when the several divisions are separately estimated. The province of Neufchatel is under the protec- tion of the Prussian government, but is, in some respects, considered an independent state, forming one of the Swiss republics. Its extent is about 2'20,8()() acres, and the number of its inhabitants 4 The nextmd^fpfddtictive branch of wealth derived from the soil is, that which arises from the extensive woods that cover more than one quarter of the surface of the kingdom. About two-fifths of these woods are the King's hereditary domains ; the rest belong either to the corporations, to the nobles, or to other individuals ; but all are under the direction of the forest administration, whose business it is to secure the public from the want of fuel. The produce of these woods have been already stated, including- timber for building, for fuel, for joiners' work, and for converting into pot-ash, turpentine, rosin, and tar. Fruit, esculent vegetables, and wine, may be classed together ; though, since the acquisition of the Rhenish province, the latter production is one of great importance. Fruit-trees were very rare in Prussia before the reign of Frederick II., but, by the encouragement he gave, they were vastly multiplied, and are now calculated to be 15,140,000 in number. The wine made in Prussia before the acquisition of the province of the Lower Rhine, was of a bad quality, and scarcely better than vinegar. The banks of the Rhine now yield good wine, of various kinds, the quantity of which together, is from 390^000 to 420,000 eimers, a measure of about 15 of our gallons. The fisheries and the game are not unfrequently farmed, and there are instances of individuals, who give from 600 to 900 pounds sterling per annum, for the right of fishing in certain lakes and rivers. Where the game is not farmed, but remains in the hands of a nobleman, even of the highest rank, what is not consumed at his own table, is carried to the market, and the practice of selling it is not deemed in the least dis- graceful, or unworthy of his rank. The last branch of those sources of production which the PRUSSIA. 243 land of Prussia yields is the mines. These are by no means worked to the extent which tiiey are capable of, thouo-h progress is making in almost all of them. There is not a province within the Prussian dominions in which iron ore of some kind is not found, and scarcely any part in which the mines of it are not worked. The forges and blast furnaces are almost wholly supplied with charcoal fuel from the woods in their vicinity, though, in some few instances, and upon a small scale, fossil coal in the form of coke is used. From the circumstance of iron ore and charcoal being almost every where found, the different works and mines supply a certain circuit round them; but, if they extend that circuit a little wider, they come in contact with some other work, which compels them to contract themselves within their natural sphere. As little or no iron is exported, because it can be- made cheaper in countries that have more easy access to the ocean, the mines of that article are not likely to become productive beyond the demand for domestic consumption, and can only increase as that may increase. The quantity of iron at present made in Prussia, is about one hundred and twenty thousand tons per annum. A part of this is converted into steel, and a part is applied to the fabrication of various utensils, some of which are exported to the amount, on the whole, both of raw and manufactured goods, of 300,000 pounds sterling. The article from the mines, next in importance to iron, is salt, made partly from the solution of sal-gem, partly from saline springs, and prepared for culinary purposes by evapo- ration. The quantity annually produced is two million bushels ; but considerable cargoes of rock-salt are imported by the provinces bordering on the Baltic sea, who can draw 244 PRUSSIA. their supplies of that indispensable commodity cheaper from the mines of Cheshire, than from those in the distant Prussian dominions. Coals are found in Silesia, Saxony, Westphalia, and on the Rhine. The most extensive works belong to the crown. There is a general prejudice in this country against the use of this fuel, perhaps, not wholly without foundation, as those I have seen are certainly more sulphureous than ours usually are ; but, if a scarcity of wood made it necessary, other veins would, doubtless, be discovered, not so much impreg- nated with that substance. The whole quantity of coals, at present raised from the mines of Prussia, is only about twelve millions of our bushels, or three hundred and thirty thousand chaldrons. Gold mines were worked in Silesia, but ceased in 1798, when the gross produce was reduced to about one hundred ounces. Silver mines are wrought at Tarnowitz and Rudelstadt, in Silesia, and at Mansfeld and Rothenburg in Saxony ; but the whole annual produce does not exceed one hundred and sixty thousand ounces. The other minerals are, copper, lead, cobalt, calamine, arsenic, alum, vitriol, saltpetre, and sulphur ; but none of these suffice for the consumption. The fishery for amber is a property of the crown, carried on by those who farm it, as well as the mines of the same article at Dirshkeim and Groshubnichen, near Pillau. The manufactures of the kingdom, like the erection of its metropolis, have been produced by extraordinary and even unnatural efforts on the part of its rulers. Not only were prohibitions laid on some, and heavy taxes on other articles, of foreign fabrication, but such raw productions as were PRUSSIA. 245 capable of being manufactured at home, were forbidden to be exported ; many manufactures which were originally nursed up to strength by these means, have now become established and extended, and would be continued without such aids. The most natural manufacture of Prussia is that of linen cloth, which has been long made in Silesia, where constant practice has given to the females a peculiar skill in spinning the finest threads from flax. In 1805, there were 34,910 looms employed in weaving linen in that province, whose pro- ductions were estimated at 1,689,915 pounds sterling, of which te foreign demand amounted to 970,000 pounds sterling. From that year, owing to the war, and the closing of the ports which followed it, the trade was much reduced, and has never since attained the standard it had then reached. The linen manufactories in the western provinces which have been recently added to the Prussian dominions, are extensive, and may be found in almost every house ; but they furnish little for foreign consumption. The number of looms in the whole kingdom, in the year 1816, were 207,870. The increase of Merino sheep has given, and still con- tinues to give, a great stimulus to the fine woollen manu- factures, especially to those in the newly-acquired provinces bordering on France, where some of the best fine woollens that Europe can exhibit are made. In the department of the Roer, or as it is now called, of Aachen, just within the boundary line that separates the Prussian dominions from France, the towns of Eupen, Aachen, Montjoie, Stolberg, and Malmedy, prepare from the native wool, the finest cloths and cassimeres, the annual value of which is, at present, about 1,250,000 pounds sterling, and they give employment to 50,000 workmen, as well as to every kind of machinery that has been 2 I 246 PRUSSIA. invented in England or elsewhere. The fabrics have been much improved ; the manufacturers contend, that their cloths are superior in quality, and lower in price, than any that we make ; and, at the last fair at Leipsic, where the buyers and sellers met in great numbers, in consequence of a dispute on the subject, a committee was appointed, who were neither interested in the manufactures of England, nor in those of the Rhine, but who, as purchasers, may be presumed to be both competent and impartial judges, to examine and report on the best cloth in the city from the two countries. Their decision, I am sorry to say, was unanimously in favour of the cloths from Eupen. The encouragement given to them by the merchants from Greece and from Turkey, who meet the manufacturers at Leipsic, and at Frankfort on the Oder, has acted as a stimulus to greater exertions, and to a greater ex- tension of their several establishments. The fine cloths of Eupen appear to me not to be sheared so close as ours, or to have more wool raised by the teazles ; so that, though they do not look so beautiful when new, they can be worn longer before they become threadbare. The amount of the iron manufactures has been already noticed, and it is only necessary to observe, that the fabrica- tion of arms, one branch of them, is very extensively carried on by the government. Paper is made sufficient for common pur- poses in 301 mills, but the superior kinds fit for printing maps and plates are supplied from England or France. Cotton goods are made in many parts of the country ; but, since 1805, the manufactories of them have gradually declined. The silk and mixed goods, of silk and wool, and silk and cotton, and ribbons, are sufficiently extensive to supply the home con- sumption, and employ together in the capital and other places. PRUSSIA. 247 about 20,000 looms. The different kinds of leather are made here, the skins produced in the kingdom are insufficient to supply its demands, and considerable quantities of Buenos Ayres hides are imported from England and Spain. Copper and brass articles for all domestic uses are made partly from the copper and calamine raised from the mines within the kingdom, but principally from copper furnished by other countries. The amount of these wares annually fabricated are estimated at about 200,000 pounds sterling. Tobacco, snuff, refined sugar, soap, candles, glass, earthen- ware, and almost every article of common consumption, is made within the kingdom. In the eastern part of Prussia, as no wine is grown, the common beverage is either beer, or spirits distilled from corn ; the establishments for brewing and distilling are consequently numerous, but none of them approach in magnitude to the larger concerns of a similar kind in England. The whole quantity of beer that is brewed is 4,243,100 fass or casks of fifty gallons each. The consumption of corn brandy, on an average, is upwards of eight million gallons annually. The artists, or the traders that approach to that character, are in sufficient numbers for the wants of the country. Printers, letter-founders, copper-plate engravers and printers, instrument- makers, watch-makers, and persons of similar professions, are to be found in all the larger cities. The number of workmen, including masters, journeymen, and apprentices, employed in the various branches of the manufactures, are estimated to be about 350,000; and the value of their productions, beyond the cost of the raw materials, are calculated to amount to 7,600,000 pounds sterling. Prussia is in a situation to command a considerable 2 I 2 248 PRUSSIA. transitu commerce, and to become an entrepot for the north of Europe ; but her system of prohibitions is so strict, and the conduct of her revenue-officers so vexatious, that no mer- chandise passes through it to other countries, that can find a passage by otlier routes. The foreign commerce of Prussia, by land, is principally with Russia and Austria ; with both those states, the balance is against her. From Russia, she obtains hemp, corn, tallow, hides, and other productions of the soil ; and, in return, sends both linen and woollen cloths. From Austria, she receives salt and wine, and sends linen yarn in return. The provinces on the Rhine carry on considerable traffic in wine and manufactured goods to the adjoining provinces in the kingdom of the Netherlands, and to several states of Germany. Though Prussia possesses several sea-ports on the Baltic, yet none of them are capable of receiving ships, of a consi- derable draft of water, nor are the entrances to any of them either easy or perfectly safe. Dantzic, once a Hans-town, commanding the commerce of the Wesel, is now much declined. It still, however, exports corn, wood, pot and pearl-ashes, linen, wool, wax, horse-hair, and feathers; and imports colonial wares, and some few manufactured goods. Konigsberg exports corn, but the vessels that are loaded with it, can approach no nearer than Pillau. Elbing has lately increased, by dividing the commerce with Dantzic, and the exports as well as imports are of the same description of articles as in that city. Memel is the most considerable port at present, and exports corn, ship timber, and masts, flax, pot-ashes, and flax-seed, to a considerable extent. Stettin has the largest import trade of any Prussian port, as, from its position on the Oder, it is best calculated to receive and forward colonial produce to the PRUSSIA. 249 capital, and the centre of the kingdom. It is also the place from whence the greatest portion of the fisheries is carried on. Stralsund, though the best port, has but little trade, from wanting water communication with the interior of the kingdom. Colberg, Rugenwalde, Stolpe, Barth, Swinemunde, and Wol- gast, have but little trade ; it is, however, carried on princi- pally by their own shipping. The whole shipping belonging to the different ports of Prussia, in 1816, were only 883 vessels* capable together of carrying 90,292 lasts of corn, or about 950,000 quarters. The greater portion of tlieir exports are conveyed by foreign ships, of which the British exceed in number those of all other nations together. The whole exports of Prussia, consisting of corn, woollen goods, and wool, linen and linen yarn, wood, and a variety of smaller articles, amount, on the average, to 4,500,000 pounds sterling. The imports, consisting of sugar, coffee, French and Hungarian wine, cotton-wool, silk, and a vast number of other commodities of trivial value, amount to 3,750,000 pounds sterling. The extent of Prussia is greater than that of Great Britain, and its population only one sixth less, and yet the surplus pro- ductions are not more than one twentieth part of ours ; and probably, the domestic consumption of the various commodities produced from the soil and the labour of man, does not amount to more than one third of what is consumed in this island. Tlie climate of the two countries is nearly the same. The soil of Prussia is naturally not inferior to that of Great Britain. The sandy plains around Berlin, in Pomerania and in East Prussia, do not exceed in extent the mountainous districts in the north of England, and the highlands of Scotland, and 250 PRUSSIA. with all their sterility are easily made to produce aliment in greater abundance than the worst districts in our island. The forces of the kingdom are of three descriptions, viz., 1st., the troops of the line or regulars, a kind of conscripts formed of young men between twenty and twenty-five years of age, who are all compelled to serve. Those who purchase their own arms and accoutrements, and pay a certain sum, may be allowed after one year's drilling, to pass into the second class of troops, the landwehr, and become jagers or sharp- shooters. The landwehr consists of all those between twenty and twenty-five, who have been excused from serving in the line, and all other males between twenty-five and forty. In time of peace, this body meets for exercise one day in the year ; but in time of war, becomes a disposable force, and marches wherever it may be required. The landsturm is composed of all males capable of bear- ing arms, from forty years of age and upwards. This force is only called out in time of war, but not to march against the enemy, as its duty is confined to maintaining internal tran- quillity, and guarding prisoners. Men. The regular troops are the guards, which form a complete army of cavalry, infantry, horse-artillery, and foot-artillery 18,220 Infantry of the Line : 34 regiments of three battalions of 801 men each, 2 battalions of jagers, and two of sharp-shooters, t 112,140 34 garrison battalions Carried forward 130,360 PRUSSIA. iJ51 Men. Brought forward 130,360 Cavalry : 4 cuirassier, eight dragoon, twelve hussar, and 8 hulan regiments, each of 60 » men . . . 19,232 Artillery and Engineers : 8 brigades of artillery, 1,656 men each, eighteen companies of engineers and pioneers, 120 men each 15,408 165,000 The Landwehr consists of 8 battalions of guards 3,204 25 regiments of infantry, with artillery attached to each corps .... 142,900 100 squadrons of cavalry 13,900 160,004 325,004 The officers of the different ranks in this army, in the year 1817» were 7,405, of whom 4,140 were nobles, and 3,265 burghers. As the pay of the officers of the army is small, they are rewarded by decorations and orders, which are very flattering to them, and which are usually distributed both with judgment and good effect. The orders of knighthood are the black eagle, the red eagle, the order of merit, the order of St. John, of the iron cross, and the female order of Louisa, instituted to favour those ladies who, in 1813, assisted the distressed, and stimulated the warriors. It excites some degree of surprise in an Englishman, when he first learns how small the public revenue of Prussia is, that its army should be so numerous, and yet the national 252 PRUSSIA. debt so small. The conduct of this government shows what wonders may be performed by economy and regularity in matters of finance. The accounts of the revenue, state the produce of the several provinces thus : East Prussia 8,100,000 West Prussia 3,750,000 Posen 3,100,000 Brandenburg 9,000,000 Pomerania 3,000,000 Silesia 13,500,000 Saxony 10,417,000 Westphalia 8,431,000 Juliers, Cleeves, and Berg 8,670,000 Lower Rhine 7,000,000 74,968,000 gulden, or 7,5:28,000 pounds sterling. The private estates of the King, which are extensive in all the provinces, form an important item in this amount. They are mostly farmed, and produce an income of more than 10,000,000 gulden. Another branch, called the Regalia, or royalties, consists of the produce of the mines, salt-springs, the game, the profits on the coinage, on the posting and postage, and some other branches, which are hereditary in the crown ; some of these are farmed, and the others administered by officers of the King. The income, from these royalties, varies from 8,000,000 to 10,000,000 gulden. The property of the crown thus forms more than one quarter of the whole PRUSSIA. 253 revenue of the kingdom. The other sums are derived from taxes on the land, on persons, and on patents and licenses, which are denominated direct contributions, and from an excise, or rather a custom-duty on various foreign productions. A small sum arises from stamp-duties. In those provinces which formerly were a part of the French empire, the taxes on land, on trades, and on doors and windows, as then established, are still continued. These sources of revenue occasion a host of petty officers, whose salaries absorb one quarter of the sum drawn from the subject, and who, by the rigidity of the system, as well as its complexity, present great obstacles to all commercial transactions. The whole system of Prussian revenue is peculiarly harassing to the neighbouring states ; and is more vexatious, from the territories being in detached portions, which intervene betwixt different states, and some- times between different parts of the same state. The expenses of the Prussian government have always been so far below the income that a large sum has been accumulated in time of peace, to meet the exigencies of war; and no debt existed, till the fatal irruption of the French, in 1806. That, and the succeeding events of the subjugation, of the war of deliverance, and the efforts made on the return of Buonaparte from Elba, have created a debt, which is, however, already considerably reduced, and will be liquidated in a few years, by the revenues from the newly-acquired territories. The funded debt, including 6,000,000 pounds sterling to the British subjects, and that to Denmark and to Sweden, amounted, in the beginning of J 819, to 240,000,000 gulden, and the floating debt to about 30,000,000, but much of the latter has been extinguished in the current year. The present expenditure is thus ; 2 K 254 PRUSSIA. Establishment of the royal household 2,250,000 Military expenditure 37,500,000 Civil expenditure 7,500,000 Interest on the public debt . . . 15,000,000 62,250,000 gulden, or 6,510,000 sterling. In this account of expenditure, the cost of collecting the revenue, and the expenses of several departments are not noticed, because they are charged on the different branches, and deducted before the money comes into the treasury. No court can be less expensive than that of Berlin, and no monarch less attentive to his personal gratifications than the present king, who, like his predecessor, Frederick II., ap- propriates but a very small portion of his patrimonial income to his private purposes, but devotes it principally to the service of the state. I left Berlin by the road which I entered, and proceeded to Dresden through Potzdam. I was alone in the carriage, and, wishing for a companion, invited a very well-dressed young man, who was walking the same road, to take a seat with me, which he very readily accepted. On engaging him in con- versation, I soon learned his short history. He was a young tradesman, the expiration of whose apprenticeship, and his twentieth birth-day, had nearly arrived. According to the general lot of his countrymen, he was to become a soldier in a few days, and was repairing to Potzdam, to join the corps to which he was designated. He frankly told me, that if he could have got to Hamburg, he would there jiave worked at his trade till he iiad saved money enough to carry him to PRUSSIA. 255 England, where, like all the young Prussians, he supposed money to be so plentiful, that a fortune must soon be acquired. The fear of a very rigid police, which watches every young man about twenty years of age, and is peculiarly vigilant on the frontiers, and the dread of the severe punishment which follows what is called desertion, when detected, had prevented him from attempting it. Such deserters, like others, are sentenced to hard labour for six months, and afterwards compelled to serve in a condemned regiment for the remainder of their lives. Community in calamity seemed to have recon- ciled my young companion to his lot ; and he consoled him- self by thinking, that, when not on duty, he could earn something which would make his situation more comfortable than that of the peasants, who usually form the greater part of the regiments, and who can get no employment in the garrisons where they are quartered. The pay is only two groschen, or three-pence a day, and a ration of black rye- bread, weighing about eighteen ounces. When the time of service expires, my young man told me, a less strict watch would be kept over him, and then he should escape from the country. I have been told, that this desire to leave their country is almost universal among the youth in the cities, as they approach the period when they must enter the service ; and it is so natu- ral, that I have no difficulty in believing it : among the peasants, the case is different ; they live poor as soldiers, but not more so than in the houses of the farmers, and the labour of exercising is not so great as that of ploughing or thrashing ; so that they are not, like the tradesmen of the cities, placed in a worse situation by being compelled to serve. The approach to Potzdam from Berlin is more striking than 2 K 2 256 ■ PRUSSIA. the prospect appears when going from the former to the latter city. The Havel, on the left, extends itself to a fine lake, from whose very edge plantations rise above each other, regu- larly increasing in height, to a considerable elevation. Whilst changing horses at Potzdam, I was induced to go to the lake, to see what is quite a phenomenon in this country, a steam-boat. It has been finished some time, and was designed to convey passengers to Hamburg. It is, I think, the largest I ever saw, it is very neatly fitted up within side with accommo- dations for passengers of various ranks, at different prices; owing to some unsettled points about the tolls to be paid to the sovereigns through whose dominions the river Elbe passes, ithas never made a voyage. Whether it will ever be in operation, is, I find, now a matter of doubt ; but it would be a vast advantage to have an intercourse with Hamburg from the centre of Prussia, and even of Saxony, by any means which would enable pas- sengers to avoid the deep sands which compose the only road between Berlin and the nearest sea-port. On the side of Potzdam, towards Saxony, by which I left that city, the meadow lands are very good, but, I suppose, generally flooded in the winter; for the bridge over the lake is continued to the end of the meadows, for nearly half a mile. There appeared more activity on this part of the river, than I had observed in any other. Many large flat vessels were navigating, some loaded with hay, and others with various com- modities. The vessels are about sixty feet in length, very narrow, with remarkably lofty prows. They had a single sijoulder-of-mutton sail, with a sprit, which was shifted as the vessels tacked, and used as an out-rigger when sailing large. A gentle ascent brought me to the royal woods of C'unncrs- dorf, which are of great extent, a part of which was felling. BELITZ. 257 and converting, on the spot, to the various purposes for whicli it is required. The land gradually improved, and though a sandy soil, was more of a loamy appearance than I had lately seen; and as I approached to Belitz, it changed to a clayey loam well calculated for wheat. The three-course rotation is universally followed, but frequently wheat instead of rve succeeds the fallow crop of flax or potatoes. Belitz, a market-town of 1,850 inhabitants, has some linen manufactories, but principally depends on its agriculture. It has a gay and pleasing appearance. The houses are none of them large, and mostly of mud, between upright and diagonal wood frames. The wood-work is painted of a very dark green colour, and the mud of a light pea green, whilst the doors and windows are yellow, which has a good effect. This place is surrounded by some most fertile meadows, on which between ninety and a hundred fine cows were feeding. I was told, that, when the summer is moist, these meadows afford three crops of hay in the year, and have never yielded less than two. The corn-land too is good, and the fertility of this neighbourhood is visible in the size of the barns, and the comparative neatness of the farm-houses in the villages around it. There is a beau- tiful lake at the end of this town, extending from the meadows and terminating on a bank rising from it, that is covered with plantations. As I was proceeding from Belitz, I overtook a very well dressed man with a military appearance, and, being again alone, invited him to a seat, which he accepted. He was well bred, but appeared, for some time, rather sulky. When forcing my conversation on him, I happened to make some allusion to England, and calling it my country, he seemed surprised, and said, he thought I had been a Frenchman. When assured an 258 TREUENBRIETZEN. that point, after venting some vehement exclamations against France, Frenchmen, and Buonaparte, I found him an interest- ing, though not very intelligent, companion. He had been adjutant of a regiment, and during the war had fought at Bautzen and Leipsic, and was proceeding to join Blucher, when he was saluted with the intelligence of the battle of Waterloo. When the war ended, he became a farmer on one of the King's estates, near Treuenbrietzen. I was rather amused with his slight knowledge of the state of the world beyond the boundaries of Germany. He thought England was now at war with Spain, and with the United States of North America, as well as fighting with what he called the rebels of Manchester, but he thought the latter must be de- feated, if Wellington commanded the army against them. Like all the military, he was almost wild in his praises of our great commander, and seemed proud to have once seen him, when in Paris with his regiment. This ignorance of what is passing in the world, is by no means uncommon among those who live wholly in the country, and gain no other intelligence but what reaches them by the meagre articles in the few newspapers that are circulated in the provincial districts. It has frequently afforded me much amusement to hear the views of our affairs which are taken by those who are constant readers of their own journals, in which articles of intelligence from England are so much abbreviated, as to communicate very indistinct notions. I have met with few who had any knowledge of the difference between the common-hall, the common-council, and the common's-house ; and the short sentences from the city orators are received with as much confidence as the equally short ones from the most distinguished statesmen in St. Stephen's chapel. TREUENBRIETZEN. 259 Treucnbrictzen, a small city, which I reached in the after- noon, is on the river Neiplitz, which runs to the Havel. It here turns a paper-mill, which I found at work, making- very coarse printing-paper. The water is beautifully clear, and if the rags from which the paper was made had been sorted, in the same manner as is practised in our mills, they certainly might make as good paper ; but, in that article, as well as most others, economy and utility are deemed of more conse- quence than beauty. This city has now no walls, but fertile gardens occupy the place formerly covered by them and the ditches. The gates still remain, to maintain its claim to the rank of a city. It contains 3,690 inhabitants, one half of whom are employed in various manufactures. The principal of these is coarse woollen cloths, which are wove in one hundred looms ; none of those which I saw were weaving from fine wool, but I was told that some little cloth from the wool of the Merinos was made in the place. The looms were on the common principle, and differed in nothing from ours, except in the parts being heavier and stronger, and, consequently, requiring more exertion to weave with them. The number of looms used for weaving linen-cloth are about seventy, and some of their productions are of a fine quality. Besides this business, there is a large tannery, a brewery, and a considerable distillery. As the inn was clean, I resolved to pass the night at it. After conversing with the quidnuncs of the place in the coffee-house, and surprising them with the indifference with which I treated the events at Manchester, which, to people who never heard of fifty thousand men being assembled for any purpose but tliat of fighting, appeared terrific, I retired to my apartment, I found there were neither blankets nor quilts in the house, and therefore was obliged to sleep between two feather-beds. 260 PRUSSIA. to the corners of which the sheets were attached. This mode of sleeping, which is very agreeable in severely cold weather, in warm or in temperate weather, is rather annoying ; but in many of the inns in the smaller towns, there seems to be no medium between sleeping with no other covering, but that of a sheet, or being melted by the heat of an upper light down or feather bed. I left my quarters too early to see the environs of the town on the road to Dresden, and reached the village of Heyde to breakfast. On my left hand, I passed close to the village of Grossbeeren, which has become a place of some notoriety, as the field of battle, where in August 1813, the king (then Crown Prince) of Sweden checked the advance of Vandamme, and saved the capital of Prussia from the fury of the invaders. A small stone obelisk, with an iron cross on the top of it, marks the spot. Some Prussian officers asserted to me, that in the battle, which continued two days, the whole brunt was borne by their troops, and that the Crown Prince, who com- manded the united army, very carefully kept his Swedish troops threatening, but not fighting the enemy. Such representations are of course liable to su picion, and perhaps ought not to be noticed, but certainly should not be credited without other evidence than that of one party. Around Heyde, Grossbeeren, and the whole road to the small town of Kertsberg, the land is a sandy loam, partly in woods, which would be of immense value if there were water carriage, for many of the oaks were some of the largest timber I have ever seen; but I was informed the expense of conveying them to the Elbe, would exceed their value when they reached that stream. The arable land is all cultivated on the three- course rotation. The ploughs are very small, drawn by three PRUSSIA. 261 oxen or cows abreast ; the mould board has no curve, but is perfectly straight, forming an angle of about fifteen degrees with the share, so that the soil instead of being turned over, is merely stirred. In this district, I remarked that the leaves which drop from the fir-trees in the woods, are carefully collected, and are spread as a bedding in the farm-yards, and used in the stables as litter for the horses and cows. The whole of the straw, when cut in the usual manner, is used as food for the horses, cows, and sheep ; the two latter, however, have potatoes besides, and the former oats. The increase of grain, here, is about six for one in rye and barley, and eight for one in oats ; but little of the land is adapted for the latter crop. In this district the sheep are all of the Merino breed, and many of the flocks were large, con- sisting of from 600 to 1,000, of all kinds. In this tract of country quite to the village of Kosdorf» the last in the Prussian dominions, the land belongs to the King, or to the nobles who, have feudal rights over the peasantry that live in the villages, and cultivate the soil. The flocks of sheep generally belong to these lords of the manor, (Rittergut), and their copy-hold tenants, called their subjects, (Unterthanen), labour on small portions of land, and live in the hardest manner ; and yet neither improve their own condition, nor the soil they cultivate. The houses and barns are almost uniformly of long standing, and the latter very large, capable of containing their whole growth of corn. I did not see a single stack either of hay or corn. 2 L SAXONY. 2 L '2 SAXONY. rlOAJESK was the first village I reached in the dominions of the King of Saxony ; and whilst the horses were refreshing, I looked over the establishment of the amtmnn or verwalltr, who exercises the manorial rights, and superintends the pro- perty of the lord. The flock consisted of 650 sheep, they were 1,000 till the year 1813 ; but so many were consumed in that year, first by the French, and next by the Swedes, that they have not yet reached their former number. They seemed to me of the pure Merino breed, with very fine wool ; I was told that no wool in Saxony bore a higher price in the market, than that which was clipped from this flock. The land over which it ranges is very extensive, and the amtman told me that they had a good stock of potatoes and straw for winter food. The land is not good enough to grow flax, so that potatoes generally form the fallow crop, and are succeeded by rye and barley. I saw here the process of husking barley, similar to what is done in making what we call Scotch-barley ; I learnt that it was made into broth, enriched by those who can aff'ord it with meat, and constitutes the most common food of this neighbourhood. I had not seen or heard of this dish before ; and excellent as it is, it is not very common in other parts of Germany. Beyond this village, I passed a canal, begun, but un- finished, communicating with some extensive woods, and designed to have terminated in the Elbe ; but the division <2QQ GROSSENHA^TS". of this part of the country in 1815, by which the boundary line between Prussia and Saxony intersects it in several parts, has suspended the work. All the rural inhabitants on the Saxon side of the line of division, expressed great joy that they had not been delivered over to Prussia, but were allowed to remain under their old King'; a gratification they felt more strongly, from having been long kept in painful suspense about their fate, and from the reduced numbers of the Saxon army, which does not, like that of Prussia, require the rigid enforcement of a conscription. There are in this district very extensive tracts of land, covered with recent plantations of firs, as well as I could judge, of about ten years growth ; one of these plantations must be five or six miles through, as it took me rather more than an hour in passing it. Grossenhayn is a beautiful little city on the banks of the river Roder, which flows to the Elbe. The streets are wide, well paved, and lighted ; the houses large, and the square or market-place remarkably fine. It contains three churches, a public school of the superior kind, and two hospitals. The inhabitants amount to about 4,500. It is one of the most considerable manufacturing places in the Saxon dominions. An establishment for j)rinting calicos is conducted here upon a larger scale, than any I have met with. 1 believe the whole is block-printing, for I saw no copper-plates ; the work is remarkably well executed, but the designs without taste, or only such taste as prevails here. This factory employs more than 150 hands. There is, besides, a considerable quantity of woollen cloths made here, some of very fine quality from wool clipped in the vicinity. The master manufacturers of this branch, amount to about one hun- GROSSENHAYN. 267 (ired and fifty. The dyeing part of the business has been long celebrated in Germany, and indeed in some measure tlirough Europe, from a person of the name of Barth, having in the year 1743 discovered a preparation for dyeing the colours so well known by the name of Saxon-green, and Saxon-blue, which is still used here. The fulling-mills, and dye-houses, are considerable establishments. There are fabricks of white tanned and curried leather, eight mills for making starch, and the females find constant employment in knitting worsted-stockings. I was told that the manufacturers of this city would have been as well pleased, and, were it not for the conscription, much better pleased, to have fallen within the Prussian division. Now they have only the small market which the kingdom of Saxony presents, and, in that, have to contend with powerful domestic rivals, as well as with those of England and other countries ; whereas, in Prussia, they would have had a much larger demand to supply, and would have been protected against foreign competitors, by duties, amounting almost to prohibitions. The inn at which I passed the night was much better than is usually found in cities of similar extent in Germany. The stage (of fifteen miles) from Grossenhayn to Dresden, is a delightful road, and the country improves at almost every step as the capital is approached. The soil was better and better cultivated. I remarked some good upland meadows, where the herbage was thick and fine, and the plants were of every valuable kind of grass. I observed, for the first, and almost for the only time, in Germany, a good coat of manure, spreading over the grass land. Passing through a pine wood, apparently of about twenty years' growth, by a long but 268 DRESDEN. gentle ascent, a summit is reached, below which is displayed, the narrow, but most beautiful valley, through which the Elbe flows; the splendid city of Dresden, with its. towers, palaces, and bridge ; and the picturesque, rocky scenerj^ which bounds the fissure, through which the river has wot* its passage. The gradual descent improved the prospect, by developing the verdant meadows which expand below the city, on the left bank of the stream, and the entrance to the place, the passage over the bridge, and the noble streets of the new town, create impressions, on entering Dresden, which are more favourable than I ever experienced, on first seeing, in the same transient manner, any other place. -, " Although no country has suffered more from the wars which originated in the French revolution than Saxony has done, and though the marks of their ravages are visible in every part of the kingdom, yet the outward buildings in the capital were exempt from such calamities as leave any durable marks, and though it is certainly poor, yet the signs of that poverty are not discoverable in either the public or the private edifices. The only public erection that was deranged by the hostile events, the fine bridge over the Elbe, has been completely restored, and no marks of the two explosions which it suffered from the Russians, and from the French, are now to be seen. The vast assemblage of specimens of the fine arts, which are collected here, are undisturbed ; so that, in spite of the poverty by which the kingdom of Saxony is pressed down, its capital presents as many objects to gratify the curiosity of a traveller of taste as any city in Europe. It is scarcely possible to visit Dresden, and inspect the treasures of art and the costly edifices DRESDEN. 269 it contains, without being led to reflect on the great amount of unproductive capital, which has been here expended, and comparing it with that parsimony that has been applied to the cultivation of the soil, where the same capital, by its -^Reproductive powers, if less splendidly, might have been more beneficially employed. Although the buildings of Dresden have not suffered by the calamities of war, yet the effect on the population has been very distressing. In the year 1811, the number of inhabitants was about 61,500; but in the three following years they were greatly diminished. In 1813, the deaths were 5,552, and the births only 1,660. In 1814, the deaths were 3,541, and the births only 1,183. A small increase was observed in the two following years, when the births exceeded the deaths by 940 ia both. The scarcity which visited the country in 1817, had a, bad effect again, and the population is not supposed (for no recent enumeration has been made) at present to exceed 45,000, of whom, about 4,000 are Catholics, 200 Reformed, 900 Jews, less than 100 other sectaries, and the remainder are Lutherans. A circumstance worth recording- is, that when the births were fewest, the proportion of illegi- timate children was the greatest, and, in the year 1816, the number of them were 366, and those born in wedlock only 499- The finest view of Dresden is from the cupola of the Fniuenkirchc, or St. Mary's church, which takes in the whole valley, for a distance of about twenty-five miles, through which the Elbe winds its way from Pirna to Meissen ; but it is bounded by the hills on the opposite bank, called Saxon Switzerland, which in some parts have a narrow border betwixt them and the river, and, in other spots, rise perpen- 2 M 270 DRESDEN. dicularly from it banks, to a considerable height. This church, one of the largest in Saxony, belonging to the Pro- testants, has a heavy appearance. It is built without any wood in the roof, the large square stones being clamped together with iron, and it is so strong as to have been unhurt by the bombs thrown, when the city was besieged, in 1760, and all the houses around it were full of ruins. The interior of the church discovers great simplicity. The altar is a very fine object, and the pulpit and chancel so commodiously placed, that the whole of the large audience can both hear and see the minister. The most interesting religious edifice in Dresden, and that which far excels every other that I ever recollect to have seen, is the Catholic church, built for the royal family, communicating with the palace by a narrow gallery, that crosses a street. The church is of a square form, but the nave is an oval. The roof of the nave is elevated above that of the church, and both are surrounded with elegant balustrades ; on the roof, are about sixty excellent statues of various apostles and confessors, produced by the chisel of an Italian artist, Mattielli, from Bologna, who spent many years in the work. The tower, three hundred feet high, gives an excellent finish to the exterior. Within this, is the most neat, elegant, and simple edifice that I ever saw de- signed for the Catholic worship. It has no images, and no pictures, except over the high altar, where there is a beautiful painting of the Ascension, by Raphael Mengs ; and over other altars, by the same artist, the Virgin and Child, and St. Joseph. The confessionals, and the galleries for the Royal Family, arc adorned with richness and simplicity. The floor is of black and white marble ; the pillars that DRESDEN. 271 support the edifice are of white marble, and very light ; there are no pews, but benches, on which the females kneel or sit, on one side, and the males on the other. The King main- tains a band of excellent musicians for the service of this church, and their vocal and instrumental powers collect a large congregation ; but it was evident that few of them were Catholics, for I remarked, that scarcely any used the holy water at entering the church, and most of them went away as soon as one celebrated vocal Italian performer had finished the part allotted to him. The catholic service, at least high mass, at which the King and royal family attend, and when the musicians perform, does not interfere with the hours of the Protestant service ; and those who are fond of music, which is here a prevailing taste, may enjoy a great treat, without neglecting their own religious exercises. At a Lutheran church, which I attended, the congregation was numerous and attentive; but, as is commonly the case where a liturgical form of worship is not used, a very small part o fthe audience were present when the devotional part of the service began ; many came in when it was half over, and some not till just before the sermon began. The Psalms sung, which form a greater part of the worship, were the old version, not unlike, in quaintness, that of Sternhold and Hopkins, or the one used in the church of Scotland. The prayers and sermon were either extemporary or memoriter ; from the regularity of their composition, I supposed the latter. I was glad to see that the appearance of Dresden, on a Sunday, was much unlike Berlin. The shops were closed, no artificers were carrying on their trades, nor any great crowds in the public walks. After the hours of public service, though the 2 M 2 272 DRESDEN. shops are not opened, the day is generally spent rather in a social than in a gloomy manner. The rich productions of art collected here, are more pleasing on inspection, than they can be made by any description. Since the return to their right owners of the valuable pictures from the gallery of the Louvre in Paris, the collection of Dresden is superior to any in Europe, unless, perhaps, that of Florence, which is said to equal it. The building is a square, with large apartments on the four sides, looking outwards, and similar ones looking on the court within the square. The walls of these apartments are covered with green damask, and the pictures have all rich gilt frames, which add to the effect in well-lighted rooms. These pictures have been long in collecting, but the most important additions were made to them by various purchases in Italy, and other countries in detail, and by the whole of the Modena collection being bought for 1,200,000 rix-dollars in the year 1747, since which time few valuable pieces have been added. The outer gallery consists principally of the works of the great Flemish masters, some from the Dutch and French, and a few from the Italian painters. There are thirty pieces by Rubens ; among others the Lion-hunt, Meleager, Neptune, portraits of botii his sons, the rape of Proserpine, and others, if not inferior, yet to my eye less striking. Several exquisite portraits by Vandyke, amounting to about twenty, are collected ; among the rest, our King Charles I., his queen, and their three sons in one piece. The works of Rembrandt are not numerous, but are select and admirable ; one, a portrait of his daughter, with a flower in her hand, is a most delightful picture, and has less than is usual in his DRESDEN. 273 pieces of tlie darkness which is deemed the peculiar cha- racteristic of that great artist. His pupil, Ferdinand Bol, has produced two pictures that are very striking ; one, the Rest during the Flight into Egypt ; the other, David reading a letter, announcing the fate of Uriah. There are a vast number from tiie pencils of Gerhard Dow, of Teniers, of Von Ostade, Netcher, Vander Werf, Breughel, Ruisdael, Berghem, Wouvermann, and other Flemish artists of inferior fame, but of great merit. The works of the Dutch painters are not numerous ; the best are, Albert Durer's taking our Saviour from the Cross, and the Death of the Virgin Mary. A picture by Hans Holbein, of the family of a Burgomaster of Basle before a representation of the Virgin, is one of the finest specimens of the old Dutch school that I ever remember to have seen. The best paintings of the French artists are, the Sacrifice of Noah, the Worship of the Wise Men, and the exposing of Moses on the Nile, by Poussin ; a Holy Family by Le Brun, and two beautiful landscapes by Claude Lorraine. Among the smaller Italian pieces in the outer gallery, is a remarkable one of John the Baptist by Battone ; and a copy of Raphael's St. Cecilia, which was in Paris, and is returned to Bologna, said to be executed by Julius Romano. The inner gallery looking on the court, contains the Italian pictures, and the finest specimens of the best artists which that country has produced. The most prized, is the Madona of Rapliael with St. Sextus, and St. Barbara before her. It was executed when his talents were in their best state, three or four years before his death, and expresses in the countenances of all the personages, the most sublime ideas of devout feeling. 274 DRESDEN. This picture was painted in 1520, for the Benedictine monastery at Piacenza. The next striking objects in this gallery are six pictures, by Corregio, each painted at a different period of the life of the great artist. These are the Worshipping of the Shepherds, — Night, an exquisite piece — St. George, with St. Peter and John the Baptist, before the throne of the Virgin and Holy Child — St. Sebastian, with St. Geminiani, and another saint, before the Holy Virgin with the Infant, seated on a cloud of glory — St. Francis, with St. Katharine, and St. Anthony of Padua, worshipping the Virgin ; and the Infant on her lap — and a Magdalen, sunk in penitence and devotion. A portrait, by Leonardo da Vinci, the founder of the Florentine school, of Francis Sforza of Milan, has wonderful force and expression. Carlo Dolce's painting of St. Cecilia, and of our Saviour blessing the bread, have a most deserved reputation. This vast collection is completed by pieces of inimitable beauty, from the pencils of all the greater masters that Italy has produced. Titian, Tintoretto, Paul Veronese, Hannibal Carrachi, Guido-Reni, Parmegiano, Guercino, Lucas, Giordana, Spagnolette, and Raphael Mengs, have all con- tributed their share to form this admirable assemblage of the proofs of human skill. A day is but a short time to view beauties, whose gratifica- tions would be sufficient to fill the mind for months, if constantly occupied in contemplating them. From May to September, the galleries are open, both in the morning and afternoon; and artists are allowed to study in the apartments, many of whom were so employed when I visited it. By the kindness of a worthy gentleman, to whom I had DRESDEN. 275 brought introductory letters from England, and who super- intends the gallery of statues, I was enabled to see it on a . day when it was not open to the public, accompanied only by this intelligent friend, imbued with an exquisite taste in all that appertains to the arts. The Gallery of Statues is in a splendid building, called the Japan palace, which looks into beautiful gardens, that extend to the banks of the Elbe, and would be a more appropriate residence for the monarch than the old palace or schloss, which he now inhabits. The only defect in this building is in the saloon, by which it is entered, whose height and breadth are so disproportioned to its length as to produce a disagreeable effect. Except this saloon, the whole of the principal floor, consisting of ten spacious apartments, is filled with the ancient statuary. The arrangement of the statues is admirable, so as to produce a very striking effect at the first coup cCccil. The collection contains many master-pieces of exquisite art, among which, instead of a few hours, many days may be delightfully spent. One of the most ancient pieces, supposed to be of the age of Phidias, is a candelabra of marble, presumed to have belonged to the temple of Delphos, but whether so or not, beautifully worked, and in good preservation. Many of the antiques have been mutilated, and the deficient parts supplied by the best modern artists. A Cupid and Psyche struck me as admirable. A Roman matron and two younger female figures, supposed to be her daughters, exhibit most wonderful displays of skill, both in the countenances, and in the disposition of the drapery of the dresses. A figure of Bacchus appeared to me very beautiful, and I was particularly pleased with another Bacchus of smaller size, who was naked, and in a tub, 276 DRESDEN. pressing grapes with his feet. Some of the antique busts are most wonderful productions, particularly the head of Alexander, and a well-preserved Anti noils. It is, however, impossible to enumerate, or even recollect, all that conferred exquisite delight in this copious repository of ancient taste and superior talent, in an art, which, is less ardently and less skilfully pursued by the moderns, than by their remote ancestors. The other collections of curiosities are numerous and valuable. An apartment of the monarch, which is only to be seen by a previous application, and by a very few persons at a time, called the green vault, contains the valuable jewels of the crown, and many rare productions of art and nature. An onyx, six inches and a half high, and four inches and a half broad, which cost 45,000 dollars. A garnet, the largest ever discovered, a green brilliant, and many other similar rare precious stones invite the inspection of visitors. An ancient armory contains many articles, which are specimens of the arms used by warriors in remote periods ; such as the dagger worn by Rudolph, a king of Swabia, in a battle fought at Meresburg, in 1080; an axe that had beheaded 1,400 persons; and another that had performed the same operation on 300; and many arms and dresses which may gratify the antiquarian. The museum of natural history is a very extensive collection in the garden of Count Bruhl ; the birds are many of them rare specimens, and the arrangement of the whole is very excellent. It would require a volume to detail all that is worthy of attention in this city. The public library, a very liberal establishment, contains 200,000 volumes well arranged, besides a considerable number of manuscripts ; the collection of the most ancient specimens of typography are both curious and valuable. The library is particularly rich in the Spanish DRESDEN. 0-jY and Portug:uese works, containing the rare historians of the former nation, as well as their ancient poetical chronicles, with those of Albuquerque, and others of the latter. The public place called the Zwinger, (Fauxbray,) on the site of the ancient fortifications, deserves some notice. It is an oval building, enclosing an extensive piece of ground, covered with orange-trees, among Avhich is a pleasing summer promenade. The building, which is low but elegant, is a gallery, containing a good philosophical and astronomical apparatus. It was gratifying to my English feelings to observe, that the sextant bore the name of Cary, the circle that of Troughton, the chronometer that of Mudge, and the teles- copes that of Herschel. A thermometer is preserved here, made by the celebrated Fahrenheit, who has given his name to the scale now generally in use. The number of learned societies is considerable for the extent of the population, and the institutions for the education, both of the rich and the poor, are quite as extensive as the country can require. Besides establishments for such edu- cation as is common to all the different professions, there are specific ones for military, medical, surgical, and veterinary pupils. Dresden is scarcely a place either of manufactures or com- merce, except that artists of various kinds, but none of very great merit, seem to have been attracted to a residence here, by the valuable specimens which they may study, and by the general tendency, at least, to talk about the fine arts which these have created. I believe the painters, modellers, statuaries, and engravers, constitute a more numerous body, than the manufacturers of cotton, linen, silk, and woollen goods,, and other similar but smaller commodities, whicli are 2 N 278 DRESDEN. made here. The principal trades are the breweries and distilleries; from one of the former, belonging to the cor- poration of the city, the chief part of the municipal revenue is drawn. The china, bearing the name of this city, is not made in it, but at Meissen. The collection preserved here displays the various steps in the progress of that beautiful art, by which the discoverer Bottcher, in the beginning of the last century, was enabled to bring it to a degree of perfection which gave it celebrity throughout Europe. This manu- factory is carried on by the King, and, like other royal fabrics, is a very expensive concern. The warehouse is overloaded with goods, for which there is little demand ; and the workmen have been lately kept in employment by making a superb service as a present to the Duke of Wellington, or, perhaps, a e'reat number of them must have been dismissed. The commerce of Dresden is very inconsiderable. A navi- gable river, connecting Bohemia with the ocean, is well calculated for traffic ; but the jealousy of municipal cor- porations is an impediment, and the variety of fiscal laws of the different states through which it passes is a greater. The barges which navigate the Elbe as high as Dresden, owing to some obstacles between Torgau and Wittenberg, are not of more than ten tons burden, and those which proceed to Bohemia, of not more than five or six. From local cir- cumstances, the colonial goods, for the consumption of Bohemia, are deposited at Pirna rather than in Dresden. The trade in fine linen was once considerable, but has declined, in consequence of the calamitous events which have oppressed Saxony within the last twelve years, and is now very insignificant. The principal raw material of the kingdom, its fine wool, is sent in greater quantities from DRESDEN. 19 Leipsic than from the capital, though some finds an outlet from it. An internal trade in corn centres here, whereby the inhabitants of Lausatia, and of the mining districts, are sup- plied from the corn countries around Meissen, and from some parts of Silesia. The rides and walks round Dresden present picturesque scenery of the most striking kind. One ride through what is called the Plauensche ground, behind the village of Plauen, interested me much. A valley is entered, bounded on the right hand by verdant swelling hills, and, on the other, by a mass of perpendicular granite or sienite rocks, that rise to the height of more than a hundred feet. In this chasm, close to the foot of the rocks, and betwixt them and the road, a trans- parent stream rushes with great velocity. The stream turns a mill, which, with the dwelling of the owner, and the trees that surround it, placed in this chasm, present a picture of a very fascinating kind. The valley recalled strongly to my mind the lower part of the river Wye above Chepstow, and the upper view, from the top of the rocks, bears a resemblance to that which Piercefield would present, if art were less apparent in the manner of laying out the grounds at that place. The road through the valley was crowded with carts, loaded with coals, from a mine at its termination. The coals are raised by a shaft, and, consequently, rather in an expensive manner ; if a tunnel could be driven into the hill, and a railway formed, the property would be of very great value ; but the proprietor, like all the possessors of landed property in Saxony, is too deficient in capital to execute such an undertaking, though he is very sensible of the benefit, and estimates the expense at not more than two thousand pounds. 2 N -2 280 SAXON SWITZERLAND. These coals are so sulphureous, that they are disliked by those who can aiford to purchase wood, and are only used by the poor, or by manufacturers. The vicinity of Dresden displays a country, betwixt that city and the boundary of Bohemia, which has peculiar charms for those who enjoy picturesque scenery. A group of mountains, about twenty-eight miles in length, and twenty- three in breadth, are filled with deep chasms, bordered by perpendicular rocks, some naked, and some clothed with trees of great variety. Rapid streams pour from declivities in some parts, and, in others, through deep vales, meander along meadows, without their issue or their egress being- discoverable by an observer from the precipices which enclose such recesses, and from whence he can see no path by which the vales can be reached. With a worthy friend resident in Dresden, I determined to pass two days in viewing and enjoying the delightful scenery of wild nature, which I shall attempt to describe, but to which I am conscious I have not powers to do justice. The theory of the geologists respecting this mass of moun- tains, here commonly known by the name of Saxon Switzerland, Der Saechnhhcn Sclmcltz, is, that in in remote ages, the whole kingdom of Bohemia was an extensive lake ; that it was drained by means of the Elbe, which first formed a small channel, and, as its waters rushed towards a lower level, heaped together this mass of sand, that by friction and com- pression, became converted into that assemblage of rocks, through which the river, by increasing in rapidity, has forced its present tortuous course. With this theory of the celebrated Werner, the present SAXON SWITZERLAND. 281 geological lecturer at Dresden coincides, and gives reasons, in which I felt much less interest than I did in viewing the etFects he attempts to account for. We left the city as soon as day-light appeared, and kept along the right bank of the river, passing between the seat of the late Lord Findlater, which was on the side of the stream, and that of Marcolini, the Italian minister of the king of Saxony, who is accused of being the author of all his cala- mities. Both these mansions and the land around them are for sale; but like the other estates in this country, though very trifling sums are demanded for them, no purchasers can be found. Keeping the river generally in view below us, and passing by very narrow roads, through the King's extensive vineyards, which are planted on the declivities of the hill, we reached Pilnitz, a royal palace, which has been rendered famous by the meeting of sovereign princes at it in 1792, when a treaty was reported to have been made to resist the progress of the French Revolution, which appeared to threaten greater dangers in the optics of the princes than it did in those of many of their subjects, who were then duped by the specious professions of the prominent actors in that commencement of every thing ferocious and unjust. The castle of Pilnitz, which appears to have been a very extensive pile of building, is now in ruins, having been de- stroyed by an accidental fire. Some small part has indeed been repaired, and is visited every week by the King and royal family, on the same day, I believe Monday, with a regularity which seems to prevail in all the movements of this venerable monarch. By a long and gradual ascent we reached the village of 282 SAXON SWITZERLAND. Lohmen, where is an extensive farm and castle belonging to the monarch, and cultivated by an overseer or vervvalter. From the back of this castle, a rapid torrent descends from the plain above, on which the parish church stands, passes the castle with a furious noise, and dashing over rocks, in a deep and narrow chasm, reaches a bridge, about a hundred feet below, where it disappears from the sight. The church above, the well-clothed hills on both sides the chasm, and the single arch thrown over the foaming stream, at a great height above it, exhibit a most impressive scene. After seeing the farm and the stock, whilst our horses were refreshing, we ascended to a higher level, an extensive plain, on which various projecting masses of other rocks rear their heads to sublime heights, and, in picturesque forms, whilst the whole is intersected with deep ravines, in such devious directions, that they can only be developed by an experienced guide. A ride of a few miles brought us to the village of Ottewalde, leaving which by a gradual descent, of about a mile, we reached the edge of a deep ravine, where the perpendicular walls of rocks, on both sides, presented a most horrific chasm. By descending some steps, rudely cut in the face of the wall, we reached the bottom. The perpendicular rocks on one side are about one hundred and fifty, and on the other one hundred and eighty feet in height. These walls are mostly bare, but here and there a large birch-tree was shooting out from crevices in the rocks, where there appeared no soil from which its roots could find nourishment. The bottom of the chasm had a small rivulet trickling through it, by passing the side of which, we reached what is called the gate das Tlior, which is an entrance through a passage formed by the large rocks having fallen, and been suspended, before they reached SAXON SWITZERLAND. 283 the bottom, by projecting stones which impeded their passage. There are three of these stones, at almost equal distances, whose fall has placed tliem on nearly similar positions, so as to form a succession of three natural arches, beyond which the rivulet rolled over a precipice that we could not approach. From the top of these natural bridges, there are some lofty birches shooting up from the solid rock, and presenting a singu- larly pleasing appearance. Whilst in the bottom of the chasm, the wood-cutters above us were transporting their blocks of fire-wood over it, by means of a cable stretched across, to which a cart was suspended by an iron eye, which descended from the upper to the lower wall of rocks, over the gulf, and when unloaded, was drawn back by a line affixed to it. After regaining our horses, we passed through some ex- tensive woods by an excellent road, formed by the labour of the peasantry, whilst the French army occupied this country ; and on our way, surveyed much of that peculiar scenery, which a mountainous country, when interspersed with thick and various kinds of trees, can alone exhibit. A ride of two hours brought us to one of those high pinnacles, which overlook the surrounding plain, called the Bastei. It is the projecting summit of a heap of rocks, of 860 feet in perpendicular height, around whose base, the river Elbe winds with most beautiful curvatures. In the bottom of the valley, some verdant meadows intervene, between the river and the opposite wall of perpendicular rock; on these plains some neat farm-houses, with compact enclosures, and varieties of fruit-trees present to the view, the picture of seclusion, tranquillity, and competence. The rocks on that side the river are less lofty, and the plain they support is extended before the eye, either adorned with cultivated '284 SAXON SWITZERLAND. fields or lofty woods, among which are seen other groups of rocks, lifting their heads with all the grandeur which vast and .confused masses of naked granite can exhibit. The prospect from the Bastei on its own side the river, is, however, by far the most majestic. Perpendicular masses of rocks with a chasm near 1,000 feet in depth, are opposed to the summit on which we stood ; some of them bare, some adorned with trees, whose various tints of every shade, from the pale yellow of the dyeing birch to the deep green of the darkest pines, gave an indescribable charm to the autumnal scenery. Beyond this chain, we remarked that the Elbe took a sudden turn, and passed between a group of still higher rocks; whose tops, though at first they seemed to be a portion of the chain immediately before us, we at length ascertained to be another, and a higher, ridge. Beyond this ridge the masses of Konigstein and Lillienstein, reared their bristly pinnacles to the height of several hundred feet above the level of the main body of rocks. On the whole, the views from this point com- bined the most majestic grandeur with the pleasing contrast of deep, verdant, and quiet valleys, whose habitations were indistinctly seen, and whose grazing cattle were so far below, as to render it difficult to distinguish their kind. On this summit, some appropriate huts have been constructed wholly of the bark of the trees ; in a cottage near, rye-bread for the horses was sold, and water supplied, whilst we took a slight refreshment which we had brought with us. An album is preserved here, in which visitors are requested to inscribe their names, and any thing they please besides. The names were very numerous, and the remarks or ])oetry appended to them ; but only three were those of Englishmen in the last two years. One had the initials H. C, and some bcauti- SCIIANDAU. 285 fully appropriate lines, which form the opening of CamphelJts Pleasures of Hope. I can only ascribe this deficiency of English names to the unobtrusive modesty peculiar to our national character, which, on almost every occasion, avoids, rather than seeks, display. In descending from the Bastei, we beheld below us, at a great depth, one of those inaccessible sequestered vales, which are frequently observed among these mountains, sur- rounded on every side by walls of rock which have never been descended, and whose perpendicular height would dis- courage the attempt. It was at the foot of the group of Honigstein, from whose base issued a transparent rivulet, which meandered through the green meadow, and, dividing into two streams, disappeared under the hanging woods that rose between our feet and the bottom of the vale. From this part, we continued to descend, though with various undulations, through several villages, where the ledge on which they stood was barely wide enough to give room for small gardens between the habitations and the mountains that towered above them. At one of the broader crevices we, at length emerged from the mountains to the side of the Elbe ; and, by a short ride, reached Schandau, a small town of one thousand inhabitants, on a narrow strip of land between the river and the rocks that impended over it. There, at a decent gasthoff, we passed a quiet night, after a day of fatiguing enjoyment. In conversation with our host, he talked of the dreadful scenes which the late war had repeatedly produced in this small town; it was frequently occupied by the French, the Russians, and the Prussians, and eagerly contended for, almost daily. On one day, he said, it was occupied by the different 2 o 286 KONIGSTEIN. armies no less than four times, who successively fought in the streets, and drove each other out. Though his neighbours were plundered, he and the other inn-keepers escaped; and the officers, in the intervals of the skirmishes, spent their money freely, and paid liberally. I suspected he had found his gain so great, that he looked back to these scenes with regret rather than horror. In the immediate vicinity of Schandau are some medicinal springs to which invalids repair to bathe, as well as to drink the water ; and, for the accommodation of the company, con- venient lodging and boarding houses have been established, which are frequented for pleasure as well as health. We crossed the Elbe by a ferry-boat, at an early hour, and till we began to ascend the hills on the left bank, the road passed along that side of the river. There was a fine con- trast between the calmness which the stream and its softened scenery displayed, and that rude confusion of rocks and trees that on both sides towered over our heads. Kbnigstein was on the side of the river we had reached, and Lilienstein on that we had quitted ; but so tortuous are the bendings of this stream, and, consequently, such the curvatures of the road, that it was impossible to determine by the sight on which side cither of them were situated. The ascent was gentle, and occupied about two hours and a lialf, and would have been excessively ftitiguing but for the varied beauties which every turning and almost every step disclosed. When we had reached the plain, which may be called the floor on which Konigstein stands, we enjoyed a most extensive prospect over the whole of this undulating region ; as, with the exception of the fortress of Konigstein, of Lilienstein, and some other similar groups, we were elevated above the level PIRN A. 287 of the country. This plain is about eleven hundred feet above the river. The two fortresses of Lilienstein and Konigstein are fourteen hundred feet above the river. The latter is elevated above the city of the same name about three hundred feet. On every side but that where the narrow entrance to the fortress is situated, the rock on which it stands rises perpendicularly, and the walls which surround it are on the edge of the precipice. This for- tress has been considered as one of the keys of the passes into Bohemia, and is the place where, in time of war, the treasures, jewels, and archives, of the house of Saxony, are deposited. It is strongly fortified on the only side by which it can be approached, and appears an almost impregnable fortress. A garrison of about eight hundred men is stationed on it, and civil officers of several descriptions also inhabit this spot, where, in the winter, the sufferings from the cold are said to be extreme. A well within the fortress, nine hundred feet deep, is abundantly supplied with water, and the gardens and fields contained in the inclosure are sufficient to supply food to a garrison capable of defending it. The fortress of Lilienstein on the opposite bank of the river, distant from Konigstein about 1,500 yards, is the other key to the Bohemian passes. During the campaign of 1813, the French besieged it, but without success. These two fortresses are like the hill forts in India, and resemble also the celebrated rock in Spain between Granada and Antequera called la Pena de los Eriamorados. The town or rather city of Konigstein, at the foot of the hill on which the fortress stands, contains about 1 ,500 inhabitants only. From thence, with feelings almost of regret, we left the lofty region, and descended to the city of Pirna. The 2 o 2 288 PIRN A. fields around it form a fine amphitheatre of good land, though badly cultivated. Adjoining to Pirna, but on more elevated ground, is Sonnenstein, a building of vast dimensions, now used as a lunatic asylum, in which are one hundred and forty- two patients. As it commands the town, when the French garrisoned it, the Russians occupied this building, and from it bombarded the city, the marks of which are still visible. In this place, I remarked a considerable number of women, with enormous glandular swellings ; and on inquiry found, that the appearance of them was as common at the foot of this granite region as it is in some parts of Switzerland. Pirna contains about 4,500 inhabitants, who are celebrated in Saxony for their industry and skill in various manufactures. The printing cotton establishments are considerable, and em- ploy about four hundred persons ; one of the largest of them belongs to an Irishman. There are also leather, hosiery, cloth, linen, cabinet-ware, earthen-ware, buttons, and many other goods, made here. Some barges are built on the river near it ; and, on the whole, it has the appearance of activity, but the complaints of being overstocked, and of having no purchasers for their commodities are universal, and, I fear, too true. Round Pirna the country is good, the land light, but very well calculated for corn ; and the plants of clover on a few spots, and of turnips on others, demonstrated the capability of the soil under good cultivation. Rye seems, however, the principal grain that obtains the attention of the farmers in this as well as in other parts of Germany. We rode to the royal palace, and turned through the park, or rather garden, to view the place where Moreau received his fatal wounds. The spot is marked by a square block of por- phyry, about six feet high, on which is placed, a helmet, DRESDEN. 289 resting on a sword of iron, bronzed over. The inscription is simple, and merely relates that the hero Moreau, by the side of Alexander, received here his mortal wounds. To say nothing of the scenery which I had enjoyed in the two days, the whole country inspired a peculiar interest, from having been the theatre of numerous and bloody skirmishes, that preceded the great day of Leipsic, with which terminated Buonaparte's dream of universal empire. Most of the houses in the villages were destroyed during the hostilities, and have been since rebuilt. Those that were not destroyed, as well as the trees that surround them, attest the scenes that have taken place, by the numerous marks of cannon-balls which they display. These the inhabitants have, in many instances, painted, to make them more conspicuous. The unfeeling wantonness of the French despot was dis- played in the vicinity of Dresden as much as in the other countries which were afflicted by his presence, and which belonged to monarchs with whom he was at war. He wished to pay the King his ally, the compliment of celebrating his birth-day. The military operations he was then conducting required his removal from Dresden three days before the anniversary. He was resolved, however, not to omit the review of his troops, which was one part of the appointed ceremonial; and, in the manoeuvres, they trampled down five hundred acres of standing corn in a field that I passed ; which, but for this wanton devastation, would, in a few days, have been fit for the sickle. A part of the road I had travelled over in the mountain district was constructed by orders from the French emperor, to facilitate a plan he had formed for the occupation of Bohemia. At his command, ten thousand of the peasantry were instantly withdrawn from the labour of the 290 DRESDEN. fields to make this road, and were occupied on it without' wages, and without being supplied with food by their em- ployer, till the event of the campaign made him withdraw his army from the vicinity. It is not difficult to produce great effects, when those who execute them, exercise power, without any feelings towards the human instruments they employ for their purposes. The state to which Dresden was reduced by the harpies that surrounded the energetic despot, has been feelingly described by those who were its victims, and the brutal filthiness of his soldiery, added every thing that was disgusting to the other sufferings of the inhabitants. In the parties at Dresden, I found political discussions much less introduced than in the circles of Berlin. As the society of the city is small, the same persons more frequently met, and yet the conversation took a less local turn than I was prepared to expect, though, from the circumstance of a princess of the royal house having recently departed, after a marriage by proxy, to ascend the throne of Spain, the anec- dotes of the family, and of the young Queen, were more topics of remark than any thing of the same kind seemed to be in Berlin. The King has a regular court-day here, which is not the case in Prussia ; and, as most of the persons I met were in the habit of going to court, that gave some tinge to the conversation, which, as long as there was novelty in it, was not tiresome to a traveller. The King preserves more civil, though less military state, than his brother of Prussia. He has a regular band of music, an expensive establishment for the chase, in which he joins regularly on stated days, and an expensive taste in carriages, horses, and attendants. He has now reigned more than fifty years, and the vicis- situdes which he has experienced seem to have fixed him DRESDEN. 291 in the affections of his subjects, who all s))eak of him with kindness, if not with reverence. His adherence to the for- tunes of Buonaparte a little longer than some of the other sovereigns is a subject rather avoided ; but the effects of it, in tiie diminution of his territory, are commented upon with a degree of severity, which is generally indulged when Prussia, or her monarch, happen to become the subject of conversation. The national hatred which exists towards Prussia, even among people of good manners and good understanding, is obvious ; and, perhaps, that animosity may make them more readily overlook the enormities which France has perpetrated in these countries, and be jealous of the revenge which Prussia has been enabled, in some measure, to execute. The young Queen of Spain is said, by those who have been as intimate with her as court etiquette would allow, to possess most unbounded ambition, and to have such a commanding spirit as to have obtained, at her early age, almost the sole power over the Royal Family. When her elder sister was demanded in marriage by an Austrian arch-duke, she declared she would never marry but to a kingly throne. When the ambassador of Spain, the object of whose mission was known, was first introduced to the family, the elder sister, who was attached to the prince she has since married, in order to avoid the honour of Ferdinand's hand, disfigured, by her mode of dress, a person not unpleasing. The younger, Josepha, did not need much persuasion to induce her to accept the proffered crown, nor did she practise any hesitation when the formal proposal was made. She is said to be an extremely pious, or what some call a bigotted. Catholic, observing all the injunctions of that church with most scrupulous exactness. She is distinguished 292 DRESDEN. by an undeviating sincerity in all her expressions, by the most rigid adherence to truth, and the punctual observation of all her engagements. She had studied the Spanish language, and at an early period of her engagement with Ferdinand, had begun to correspond with him. It was suggested that her letters had better be corrected by some person who was an adept in that tongue ; but she repelled the suggestion with great scorn, declaring that it would be practising a deception on the King, which she would never use. After the formal marriage, she appeared much flattered by the Spanish minister addressing her on his knee ; though it is said, when he first placed himself in that posture before her, she was alarmed by the apprehension that he was about to communicate some disastrous intelligence from Spain. The picture of Ferdinand superbly set with diamonds, was presented to her, with which she was much pleased, as he was certainly a fine looking man. It was afterwards known, and by some person communicated to her, that the picture was painted for and presented to his first wife ; that after her death the same present was sent to Brasil for his late Queen ; and now for the third time, presented to the Saxon Princess as the resemblance of one, who must have passed a longer period than she has lived, since it was painted for him. Whatever chagrin the discovery might have occasioned, the prospect of a crown seemed to have healed the wound and allayed the feeling. The conditions to which this young Princess was called to submit, in conformity to the etiquette of the Spanish court, were such as would have been deemed harsh by most persons, but are said to have been easily acquiesced in when they were appendages to a throne ; and were not objected to, DRESDEN. 293 because they were known before the formal proposals were made. The principal conditions are, that she is to visit a theatre but twice in a year, and then accompanied by the Kino-; — that if she wishes to ride out, or to walk even in the garden, she must give twelve hours' notice in writing of her intentions ; and that no attendants from her own country must accompany her to Madrid, but must leave her at the first town after her passing the Spanish frontiers. This last condition has been literally complied with, and her Saxon attendants have all returned to Dresden. The friends of the Royal Family augur very favourably of this alliance, in a political view, as well as of another, recently completed between the heir apparent, and an arch-duchess of Austria; which, together, they think may be the means of preserving this small kingdom from any further reduction of its territory. In most parties where I passed the evenings, I found that every thing relating to Spain received attention, and was eagerly listened to. There have lately been few books on the subject published here, and few of the Saxons have been in Spain ; while in some other parts of Germany, where the officers of the British German legion were dispersed, the knowledge of that country is pretty generally diffused. I remarked in society, here, that those persons of rank who had neither civil nor military employments, occupied their time in some pursuit either of a literary or scientific kind, which they seemed to pursue with considerable ardour. One noble- man whom I frequently met, was deeply engaged in botanical pursuits, and arranging a Flora of Spain and Portugal. Another was busily occupied in preparing for publication, translations into German, of the poetry of Lope de Vega, and 2 P 294 DRESDEN. some other of the old Spanish writers ; whilst a third was sedulously involved in all the details of experimental agri- culture. Natural history seems, however, to be the favourite pursuit, and making collections of different kinds, a source of employment and gratification to many. I found a more general acquaintance with English literature than I expected, and quite as high a respect for it as I had noticed in Berlin. The females, I generally found well informed and well bred ; some who had visited Italy, the favourite resort of those few in Saxony who have any money to spend in visiting foreign countries, were full of discussions on the manners, the lan- guage, and tlie antiquities of that country, and gave me reason to think, that, unlike most of our English travellers, they mixed a good deal with the natives of the country. Though I was in several parties, I never once saw cards introduced, nor any other species of play ; music was generally a part of the entertainment, but not to such a degree as to be an impediment to conversation. I met frequently the same persons, but the manners of the whole were too correct to satiate by repetition ; and I am persuaded that no society would be found in England, except in London, and, perhaps, at Bath, the average of whose intellect is higher, or the average of whose manners is more polished. The Resource, an institution upon the plan of our sub- scription houses, and two other similar establishments, but rather of a lower cast, give the gentlemen the means of meeting ; where play is generally practised, but where also are collected the journals and periodical publications of dif- ferent countries. Though Saxony was the seat of war for a short time only, yet both before and during that period, it suffered most DRESDEN. 295 severely. After the battle of Jena, in 1806, peace was made with France, but the country was the highway to the ulterior operations, and it was perpetually drained of its resources by the vast numbers of French troops, or troops under the direction of France, that were almost continually marched through it. These troops were quartered on the inhabitants, in numbers proportioned to the size of their houses, and were supplied with daily rations, without any payment being made either by their own King, or his allies the French. When the great operation against Russia was in progress, Saxony was the high road to that country. When the invading army was dissipated, on its retreat from Moscow, its shattered remains obtained food from Saxony, till they were driven out by the pursuing Russians, who, like them, lived at free quar- ters. When Buonaparte had organized a new army, and advanced towards the united forces of Russia and Prussia, Saxony again became the theatre of the several battles of Bautzen, Lutzen, and ultimately Leipsic ; during which time, scarcely a town or village escaped the successive occupation, free quartering, and pillage, of the different combatants. The quartering of the troops was regulated solely by the size of the houses ; thus, a nobleman in the city, where he had a large palace, might frequently have from six to eight hundred soldiers to provide with food for a day for that house ; and if he had another in the country near the road, perhaps as many more, who, as the case might be, were either Russians, Prussians, or French. Many of the possessors of the largest estates were in this situation. As those who had so great a number of troops could not have provisions to subsist them, the millers, bakers, butchers, brewers, and 2 P 2 296 DRESDEN. farmers, naturally raised their prices with the increased demand, and thus made great profits from the distresses of the superior classes. These were compelled to mortgage their estates, on very disadvantageous terms, to raise money to supply food to the numerous soldiers that successively filled their houses. The armies sometimes trampled down the growing corn, and more frequently destroyed houses and barns in the villages and small towns ; but the farmers had got most of their corn thrashed and sold to the millers and bakers, who, though they gave high prices, were enabled, especially when they gave credit to the nobility and gentry, to gain enormous profits. The advance in the prices of productions I think must have more than compensated to the mass of cultivators, for the suffer- ings occasionally experienced, by the destruction of their dwellings, with their scanty contents. The shop-keepers and traders in the cities, though, in proportion to the size of their houses, they were burdened with soldiers, were, in most instances, more enriched than impoverished by the war. The Russian or the French soldier, that found money in the pocket, or an epaulet on the shoulder, of an officer, would most com- monly get rid of it in the first city he reached. Most soldiers enter on a campaign with some money, and whether they return or not, leave it in the country which is the seat of war. The manufacturers were badly circumstanced ; the soldiers wanted few of their commodities, and their houses being large, in proportion to their property, they had usually more than their share quartered on them. The great weight of suffering has fallen on the landed proprietors. They have extensive do- mains, with copy-holders under them, who may have been enriched, but they themselves are impoverished to a degree DRESDEN. 297 that is scarcely conceivable. Their estates were mortgaged at a time when their produce, and, consequently, their value were high ; but now, from the fall of the produce, and the vast quantity of land that is to be sold, little or none can be disposed of, at nearly tlie price for which it is mortgaged. The effects of war on the nobility have been particularly felt, because much of the cattle, especially the sheep, belonged to them, and were principally fed after harvest on the stubble lands of their tenants ; they were, also, in a great degree, dependant on the wood of their forests for income. In sup- plying the troops, the cattle have been very considerably diminished, and the forests, in many instances, ruined. Though the upper classes have been thus reduced, those of the middle ranks, who had been enabled to accumulate during the war, have suffered much since by the vast reduction in the prices of their commodities, and by the debts which they cannot recover from the land-owners. The separation of the best agricultural parts of the kingdom, by giving them to Prussia and leaving to Saxony all the manufacturing districts, has been an injury which, added to others, must require many years of peace to surmount. My residence of ten or eleven days at Dresden was highly agreeable, and I left it with much regret, and many grateful feelings for the hospitality and pleasure I had received. The road from Dresden to Meissen is extremely beautiful by the side of the Elbe, sometimes close to the river, at other times receding from it, when most luxuriant meadows inter- vene with fine rows of trees planted by their sides. On the right of the road, the hills rise somewhat abruptly, and exhibit in some parts naked and lofty precipices, and, in others. OQQ MEISSEN. gradual slopes, which are covered with vines. These vine- yards are the property of the King, and yield wine which is in higher estimation than any other in his dominions. The whole road is of so beautiful a description, that it would be easy to make a good picture at almost every spot. Many gentlemen's seats on the sides of the hill, surrounded with gardens and plantations, overlook the river, and, among the rest, the one in which Frederic of Prussia resided, when he was conducting that siege by which Dresden fell into his power. The city of Meissen is a very interesting object. It is on the left bank of the river, which is crossed by a bridge half roofed over. Part of the city rises gently from the banks, and the whole of it is overlooked by a projecting mass of rock, eighty feet high, on which stands the old castle, which was the original seat of the family that now fills the throne of Saxony, and the domkirche, or cathedral, with its lofty spire, pre- senting together a fine specimen of Gothic architecture. The castle is now used as the manufactory where the cele- brated china, which receives the name of Dresden, is made. It employs, at present, about five hundred workmen. Besides the royal manufactory, various articles are made here, and give employment to a great part of the population. They consist of woollen cloths, flannels, hosiery, hats, linen cloth, leather, and earthen ware. The towns in this country are not, as with us, destined to some one class of manufactures, which would enable the inhabitants to perfect that particular kind; but in every town, there are makers of various goods, whose fabrications have no connexion with each other, and do not tend to their improvement. Meissen, besides the Cathedral, contains two other churches, OSCIIATS. 299 a college, three hospitals, a workhouse, and several other public buildings. At the last census, the inhabitants were 4,071. This place is subject to great inundations. In the streets nearest the river, I observed a mark in a room at the inn ten feet from the floor, and a note that the water had risen to that height in 1799. The floor must be ten feet higher than the banks of the river. In the same house, I remarked a portrait of Buonaparte's son on his knees, with an inscription below it in German, " I pray for my father, and for France." I think this must be an accidental ornament, indicative of no political feeling, because by the side of it was the portrait of the late Princess Charlotte of Wales. From Meissen, the road continued by the left bank of the river for several miles, only quitting it to pass over pro- montories, whose near approach to the stream, forbade a passage under them. At length, I reached an open plain of light sandy soil, where the sprouting rye looked thick and healthy. Oschats a town, or, having gates, a city, of 3,300 inhabitants, is the next place. Except the market square, it has a mean appearance ; but around this, which is large, there are some spacious buildings. The town-house is a very singular edifice. In the front wall there are three rows of windows ; but in the roof there are no less than seven stories, each gradually decreasing in length, till the upper one ending in a point, has but one window. There is a considerable woollen manufactory for fine cloths, and smaller ones for other articles. With little variation in the appearance of the country which was still open and sandy, I reached Wurzen, a town finely situated on the banks of the river Moldau, which empties itself into the Elbe at Dessau. It is the seat of an ecclesiastical 300 WURZEN. superintendent, and of a provincial court of justice. The inhabitants are about '2,500, many of whom are employed in making linen cloth, hosiery, cabinet ware, and in considerable breweries. It was a market-day, and the women brought their ware in large wicker baskets at their backs, fastened over the shoulders like the knapsacks of the soldiers. There is an unusually large church, and two others of moderate dimen- sions, and a fine old castle, besides some other public buildings. An excellent ferry-boat is the passage over the Moldau, a beautiful stream, but unnavigable, from its numerous shallows in summer, and excessive floods in winter, by tlie latter of which the fine meadows around Wurzen, are generally covered during that season. The number of people in the market, and the greater number repairing to it in difi'erent directions, im- pressed me very forcibly with reflections on the loss of time and labour, which necessarily arises from the system of small farms which is common in Germany. The quantity of potatoes, turnips, corn, or other articles, that some of the people had brought, could not be sold for more than the value of the day's labour, which would be sacrificed in bringing them to market. I am persuaded, that more business is done, and better done for all parties, in a small market-town in England, where not thirty country people with samples meet, tha,n in such a market as this, where, perhaps a thousand people lose a day's labour each. After leaving the meadows that surround Wurzen, the same kind of open plain was spread out, with a good light soil, but from the bad rotation of crops, far from being productive even of rye; the rotation is i)case, rye, oats, with a very slight dressing for the pea crop. The ploughs of all this district LEIPSIC. 301 are small, the beams resting on a cross piece between two upright posts, and with wheels, the mould board without due curvature, and the share with a broad fin. It is a very imperfect implement, stirring, but scarcely turning the soil ; but it is worked cheap, with two oxen, and sometimes, notwithstanding the Mosaic prohibition, with a horse and a cow. Though generally what is called the three-field rotation is followed, yet there are patches in different cultivation, which clearly shew, that the deficiency is in the husbandry, not in the soil. The cabbages, and kohl riiben, well earthed up, were growing luxuriantly ; and the turnips, though the hoe had not been applied to them, were healthy, but too thick. There are some fine meadows on the borders of the brooks near the villages, but they are in general much neglected, and for want of draining, yield but coarse and rushy grass. The villages are large, and populous, with generally one good house occupied by the amtman, another by the clergy- man, and the rest nearly of a size, and between the class of cottages and farm-houses, calculated, as well as the numerous barns, for poor cultivators of thirty or forty acres of land. The churches, and especially the towers, are far superior to our religious rural edifices, and give a good appearance to these villages. The whole tract of land from Meissen to within two English miles of Leipsic, is a sandy loam, admirably calculated for our Norfolk four-course system, by which it would be enabled to maintain a great quantity of live stock, and produce double or treble the quantity of corn it now yields. In the whole distance from Wurzen, about fifteen miles, I saw but three flocks of sheep ; two were small, the other which I examined, consisting of about one thousand ewes, wedders, and taggs, 2 Q 302 LEIPSIC. belonged to a count, whose name I did not ascertain. As he is lord of a considerable tract of country, the flock has the range of many thousand acres in the summer, and in the winter are fed with chopped straw and potatoes. Upon our system, which might be advantageously introduced, the same quantity of land would maintain ten times as many sheep, and still produce much more corn than it does at present. The cows near the villages, between Meissen and Leipsic, are numerous compared with the sheep, but generally looked poor. As I saw no hay or corn-stacks in the whole distance, I had been puzzled to conceive in what manner their cows could be supported through the winter. Upon inquiring, I learnt a mode of keeping them, which was quite new to me, but which I cannot condemn. The land is favourable to the growth of cabbages, and abundant quantities are raised, and form a material article of human sustenance ; the surplus, which this year is considerable, is made into sour-krout, with a less portion of salt than is applied when it is prepared as food for man. This is found to be very good for cows, and favour- able to the increase of their milk, when no green food or any thing but straw can be obtained. The land within two miles of Leipsic is almost wholly in garden culture, and is vastly productive of every kind of culinary vegetables. The fruit trees and orchards, notwith- standing many of them shewed vestiges of the war, sur- prised me by their abundance. The inhabitants of this country subsist much less on animal food than we do, but a larger quantity of fruit and vegetables is consumed ; and Isence they have greater inducements to improve their quality, and to increase their quantity, tlian exist in those rural LEIPSIC. 303 districts of Great Britain, which arc removed from the great towns. Before entering Leipsic, I passed over that field on which the momentous battle was fought, which decided the fate of Buonaparte's plan of universal empire, and ultimately led to his downfall. It is impossible to pass the theatre of such transactions without feeling the most lively interest; and mine was peculiarly excited by the circumstantial details of a com- panion who had been a spectator, and in some measure, an actor in the events of that day. An officer in the Saxon army, who had joined me at Meissen, represented the desertion of his countrymen from the French line, as a spontaneous and sudden act, prompted by an impulse, which as soon as excited was communicated to the whole body, and became irre- sistible. Others give a very different account, and impute the result to some intrigues carried on by officers, who had formerly commanded them, and who had afterwards entered the service of Prussia. However it may have been occasioned, the consequence was important, though I was assured by several eye-witnesses, that the Saxon troops were marched to the rear of the Prussian line, and took no part in the transactions of the day, after they had abandoned the French. This is a subject which I found the Saxon officers generally avoided ; there was certainly no mili- tary glory acquired by the transaction, and the feeling that the result of that battle led to the captivity of their King, the division of their country, and the increased power of their detested enemy, the Prussian, is not very grateful to their recollection. It is one of those events which it is difficult to reconcile to any defensible principle, either of fidelity to engage- ments, or of military subordination; and the Saxon troops, who, ■2 Q 2 304 LEIPSIC. however they may dislike the French, dislike the Prussians still more, are both dissatisfied with, and ashamed of, their own conduct. Leipsic is without walls, or at least such as can be defended, which was a fortunate circumstance for those who lived within the city, during the important battle around it. The immediate storm fell mostly on those country-houses which are situated in the environs of the city. A gentleman to whom I had a letter of introduction, whose house, a very large one, is in a garden without the town, told me, that during the contest, one of his female relations died of fright; and that in the evening, he had seven hundred wounded soldiers in his premises. The river Pleiss, the small stream in which Prince Poniatowski was drowned, which runs on the lower side of the city, and is rendered smaller by being divided into three branches, to turn several mills erected across them, seems scarcely deep enough to drown a man, especially if on horseback. I understand, that at the close of the engage- ment, the number of bodies that were wedged together in the stream, acted as a dam to raise the water ; and that when the Polish prince met his fate, the number of dead bodies was so great, and they were so close together, that the most expert swimmer had not the power to use his limbs. A small monument to this unfortunate officer is erected on the meadow near to tlie spot where he met his fate. Leipsic, in point of population, is the second city in Saxony, but in wealth, activity, and prosperity, it is far before the capital. The resident iidiabitants in 1818, were 36,093 ; the birtiis the preceding year were 1,257, and the deaths 1,208. Though the wealth of tills city has been much affected by LEIPSIC. 505 the calamities of which it was the theatre, and the losses from which, in the year 1813, were estimated at £450,000 sterling, yet, there is a large commercial and manufacturing capital remaining, which amidst the general depression of all trading concerns, gives to Leipsic more of the appearance of pros- perity, than to any other place I have seen on the Continent. The city is indebted to its two annual fairs for the greater part of its commerce, and it may be considered as the central point at which the trade from the east of Europe, and from Asia, meets that of the western parts of Europe, and the various colonies in the other divisions of the globe. Manu- facturers from England, from Flanders, from France, Holland, and other parts, resort to it in considerable numbers, and meet there the purchasers from Hungary, Greece, Turkey, and from even Asiatick Tartary. Much of the business is transacted by means of brokers, and commission merchants, who are re- markable for their fidelity and assiduity ; and by the various languages they speak, the different weights, measures and monies of distant countries which they are enabled to com- pare, and by knowing the best routes for the transport of goods, make transactions very easy and simple between natives of countries very remote from each other. It is generally the custom for the manufacturers of our part of Europe to exhibit their specimens at one fair, and receive orders for goods to be ready at the following one, when they are delivered to the purchasers, and payment is made. Besides these distant purchasers, there are many houses in Leipsic who order goods from our manufacturers, and keep warehouses for the supply of such purchasers as come to the fair to buy articles for immediate consumption. The situation of Leipsic is very favourable for this kind of traffic ; it may be reached by good S06 LEIPSIC. roads in almost every direction, the public carriers are careful and regular, and it is not necessary to pass through the Prussian states, where the officers of the revenue, though less troublesome than they were formerly, are still sufficiently annoying to present serious impediments to free trade. The fairs are said to be visited by more than 2,000 merchants of different nations, and the quantity of goods bought and sold, is estimated at three millions sterling annually. A very considerable, and by no means the least interesting, portion of tlie trade of the fairs of Leipsic, arises from the publication of books. In every part of Germany there are printing-presses, and in the larger towns their operations are considerable. Books printed in one state, if published there, would not find an extensive sale, as the means of advertising in newspapers, that have but a local circulation, would not extend the know- ledge of them far from home. The books printed in diff'erent parts of the country are therefore sent to Leipsic, and when the fair time arrives are published there. The booksellers from every part of Germany meet at the fairs, and exchange publications with each other. The catalogue makes all new books known, without the expense of advertising, which, to be effectual, would be considerable, but the necessity for which is avoided by this general congress of literary traders ; the members of which endeavour to dispose of as many of their own publications as will enable them to supply their customers at home with books written and printed in other states. The number of readers of the German language is probably greater than that of any other European tongue. All iiave been taught, and it is rare to meet with any one, however low his station, that cannot read, write, and ciplier. The supply of books for such numbers nuist be necessarily great ; but, as LEIPSIC. 307 the rich who can afford to buy splendid copies, are but few, the works are brought before the public in that state which will render their purchase within the compass of the great mass of readers. Hence tiie books are printed on very coarse paper, with small and usually bad types, and are more commonly bound in marble paper than in leather. In proportion to the number of pages, books in Germany are published at about one third the price they are in England; but, by being closer printed, they are rendered still lower in proportion. Besides the books printed in other towns, there are many both written and printed in Leipsic, and some of the con- siderable booksellers of the other cities of Germany have permanent establishments in this place. There are here one hundred and twenty printing-presses generally at work. The number of books published in the year 1818, at the fairs, and their subjects, were as follows : On theology and practical devotion .... 438 works. On law 141 On physick and surgery 208 Metaphysicks and moral philosophy .... 64 School books ^ 20,5 Editions of classic authors 145 History, biography, mythology, and antiquities . 224 Geography and statistics 198 Natural history • . . . 70 Rural economy and finances 192 Politics 121 Mathematics, astronomy, and physics . . • 9.3 Military science • . 58 Carried over 2,1 65 308 LEIPSIC. Brought forward ...... 2,165 works. Commerce . 23 Fine arts 219 Miscellaneous 396 2,803 As there are many of them large works, the number of volumes must be considerably greater than four thousand ; and, besides these, there were many not included in catalogues, such as plays, romances, and editions of such popular works as are published in England, France, or Italy. It is a very general and well founded complaint, both among authors, booksellers, and others, that too many books are published. The contracted nature of German society, and the want of a point which could be considered the focus of literature, occasions this excess of writing. Every man, who thinks he has any thing to communicate, runs to the press, with great eagerness, and he is sure to find some admirers in his own little circle, and some flattery from the critical journal connected with his publisher or liimself, that circulates within his own province. The distant traders in books at the fair will each take a few copies, without knowing any thing of the merits of the work. Thus, an unnatural stimulus is given to the habit of composition, and to printing, without presenting a corresponding stimulus to the habit of mature deliberation or deep tjiinking. The natural effect of this is to produce mediocrity in every species of composition. The division of the literature of Germany into so many small states, is unfavourable to it in anotjier point of view. In each of these states, the authors mix in society, the members of LEIPSIC. 309 such society must read, in order to converse in their particular circles, on the works produced within it. A gentleman or lady from Munich is not at home in literature at Berlin or Dresden. The local publications, therefore, are read by all who desire to appear to advantage in the society in which they move. These are so multifarious, that, after reading them, there is little or no leisure for the study of the best authors of even the last century ; thus, as with us, the daily perusal of several newspapers prevents many from more improving studies, so, here, the perusal of their numerous temporary and local works which qualify for conversation, are deemed sufficient, without referring to older and better books. It would be wrong, however, not to state, that the industry of many of the German literati; their labour in editing classical authors ; their diligence in the investigation of antiquities and history ; and, especially, their patient observation of the animal, vegetable, and mineral kingdoms, and the pains they take to classify and arrange, are deserving of the highest praise. They certainly have amongst them names inferior to none that England, Italy, or France, can boast ; and the diffusion of knowledge descends lower in society, and creates a greater number of usefully moderate scholars than any other country in Europe possesses. There is a University in Leipsic which confers degrees in Divinity, Philosophy, Law, and Medicine. It has about thirty professors, and generally from live to six hundred stu- dents. The library contains thirty thousand volumes. Besides the University, there is connected with it an anatomical theatre, a clinical institution, a botanical garden, and an astronomical observatory. There are several other valuable public libraries ; among them, that belonging to the corpora- 2 R 310 LEIPSIC. tion, with forty thousand volumes, some museums of natural history and antiquities, and several learned societies. The manufactures of Leipsic are numerous, if not large ; and produce linen and woollen cloths, silks, velvets, paper, leather, hosiery, and various other articles, which give employment to between two and three thousand persons. The streets, and even the lanes, are well paved, and the former of a good width. Many of the houses look more like the palaces of princes than the residences of private individuals. The public buildings are of various dates and architecture, among them are the town-house in the market-place, the cloth-hall, the exchange, the new theatre, but they have no very peculiar attractions about them. There are eight Lu- theran, and one Catholic, churches, a chapel for the Reformed and the Greek church, and a synagogue for the Jews. I was pleased here, as well as at Dresden, to see that on the Sunday, the shops were closed, and working suspended. I was lodged opposite the Reformed chapel, in which the celebrated Zollikofer formerly officiated, and wished to have attended there on his successor, whose talents were represented to me to be equal to his, but every part of the building, though a very large one, was so crowded, that I could not even find room to stand in the aisles. I never saw the spectators in a theatre more closely wedged together than those were who stood, and every seat was filled. I then went to the Lutheran church of St. Nicholas, where I found the first service concluded, and the celebration of the com- munion about to take place, and I staid to witness it. The church is one of the handsomest, and most appropriate places for Protestant worship that I recollect to have seen. The roof is supported by two rows of lofty pillars of the Ionic LEIPSIC. 31] order; the principal light is from the top ; there are no pews, but benches stuffed and covered with horse-hair, witli a slight back rail. The pulpit is most advantageously placed, both for seeing and hearing. It is of statuary marble, with appropriate devices on it, and the whole a model of neatness and sim- plicity. The walls are not disfigured with old bad paintings of the deceased clergy, or benefactors to the church, as is commonly to be seen in the Lutheran places of worship. The organ at one end of the building, and the altar at the other, were the only ornaments of this neat edifice. The mode of administering the sacrament in the Lutheran church differs from ours, and approaches nearer to that of the Catholics. The doctrine of the real presence may have given rise to some forms which are still retained, now that the belief in it is generally exploded. The chancel occupies a considerable portion of the church, and is railed off" from the body of it. The altar (for it is not, like ours, a communion table,) is placed at the end of the chancel, without being enclosed, but so far from it, as to allow of a passage behind. This altar is ascended by three steps, and the top is about four feet above the highest of them. This is furnished with a large crucifix, two large wax tapers burning, and the gold or silver gilt sacramental plate. As in the Catholic church, wafers are used instead of bread ; and this, I am told, forms the chief difference between the Lutherans and their Reformed brethren. The officiating priests were habited in flowing black gowns which reached to their feet, and over that the white surplice or rocket, which descended only to the waist. Instead of bands, they had large projecting ruff's, very neatly crimped, and of snowy whiteness. I think the Lutheran clergy attend more to costume, and if I may be allowed the 2 r2 312 LEIPSIC. expression, to stage effect, than our English clergy, and far more than any of our dissenting sectaries. This, though derived from Rome, is, perhaps, commendable ; for the greater portion of attendants will always be somewhat influenced by forms and ceremonies, and those of more taste become dis- gusted by slovenly and vulgar manners in the reading-desk or the pulpit. After some appropriate prayers which were chanted, and accompanied by the organ, the consecration prayer was pronounced by the minister on his knees on the upper step of the altar, with his face towards the crucifix. I admired the attitude, though his position rendered the words inaudible ; but, by the books, I saw they were nearly the same as are used in the English church. The bread was placed at one end of the altar, and the wine at the other, and an ofliciator stood by the side of each. Two boys, dressed in surplices, then appeared, with a kind of silk sheet, which they opened and spread out before the priest, on the right hand, where the wafers were placed, whilst two others did the same at the opposite extremity of the altar. These sheets are spread to prevent any crumbs or drops of the consecrated elements from falling to the ground in the action of dispensing them, and the practice is evidently founded on the ancient notion of the real presence. When these preparations had been made, the men rose from their seats, repaired to the chancel, and fell into a regular line, which moved towards the right of the altar. The priest in giving the wafer pronounced tlie same words as in our church, the communicant then passed behind the altar, and on the left side of it received the cup with similar words from the other clergyman. When the men had thus all communicated and LEIPSIC. 313 returned to their places, the women advanced in a similar line, till the whole of the communicants had partaken. As the numbers of those who joined in this rite were very numerous, amounting to some hundreds, it occupied a long time, durin"- which the organ played, and the people accompanied it, by singing with great reverence, some appropriate hymns. The whole ceremony closed with a benediction, accompanied with such accents and attitude as must have been the effect of study, but which was not on that account the less impressive. I think I never saw a religious ceremony of any kind in any mode of worship more correctly, gravely, and impressively performed, nor in which the minds of the participators, seemed more engaged. After the service, the communicants dropped an offering for the poor in a wire box, where it could be seen what each had put in. The clergy here are more respected than in many other cities, their salaries are more liberal, and several of them are professors in the university, or are otherwise engaged in the business of tuition. The charity schools belonging to the diff'erent churches, are well provided for by contributions, and a part of them are col- lected by the master, and some of the scholars singing through the streets on fixed days, and applying to every house for some offering, which is rarely, if ever refused, though the sum given is generally very small. As the kingdom of Saxony on this side terminates near Leipsic, I have here sketched a view of its present condition. Saxony is divided into five provinces, denominated circles, viz. : 314 SAXONY. Meissen Leipsic Erzgebirge Voigtland Lusatia Number of Inbabi- tants. Exteut in English acres. Cajiitals. 297,945 1,006,080 Dresden and Meissen. 216,355 743,080 Leipsic. 459,264 1,403,520 Freiburg. 88,639 440,320 Plauen. 169,879 1,031,680 Bautzen. 1,232,077 4,624,680 The inhabitants are divided into those who live In two large cities In six cities between 5.000 and 15,000 souls In thirty-four cities between 2,500 and 5,000 In ninety-three towns, between 1,000 and 2,500 In towns of less than 1,000 inhabitants, and in villages 85,167 51,319 11 2,665 130,418 852,508 1,232,077 Few of the kingdoms of Europe have so large a proportion of their population employed in manufactures as the Saxon. Before the calamitous cession of its provinces to Prussia, it was calculated that two-fifths of the inhabitants were subsisted by manufactures, and by working the mines. The part assigned to that kingdom was chiefly an agricultural district, with very few manufactories, except linen. In consequence of this change, the relative proportion of the manufacturers and agriculturists, is changed ; and the former are supposed to be now three-fifths, and the latter only two-fifths. As the market for consumption is narrowed by the exclusive system of Prussia, the greater SAXONY. 315 part of the inhabitants of Saxony are in a distressed condition, from not finding vent for their goods. The only article which Saxony requires from other manu- facturing countries is paper, as their own mills do not supply more than one-third the quantity which the printers of Leipsic, Dresden, and the other towns require. Before the general peace, the cotton goods of Saxony were almost universally circulated through Germany. The produce of their looms in one year*, were 150,000 pieces of white, and the same quantity of printed cottons; l60,000 pieces of fustians of various kinds, 270,000 pieces of muslin, besides 80,000 dozen pairs of stockings and gloves annually ; but to what extent they have been since reduced, I could not ascertain. Their linen goods form a very extensive branch of industry, especially in the province of Lusatia, where the finest cloths, as well as the most beautiful damask table linen, are made. In almost all the towns, woollen cloths are manufactured, and some of the finest (juality : more are now made than the domestic consumption requires ; and at the fair of Leipsic, they vigorously attempt to compete with those which are brought there from England, France, and Holland. The silk manufactory of Saxony is inconsiderable : as the supplies from France and Italy could reach them during the continental system, they had no inducement to direct capital and labour to that object. Wooden wares of various kinds are made, and employ a very great number of persons, who not only prepare furniture of every description, from the produce of their woods,, and polish and finish it with remarkable neatness and elegance, but supply * Hassel, Vol. IV. 316 SAXONY. the greater part of Germany with some kinds of musical instruments, such as flutes, fifes, violins, harps, drums, and bassoons. The southern boundary of Saxony consists of a range of mountains, which gradually increase in elevation till they reach the frontiers of Bohemia, of which they form the boundary. Their highest point, within the Saxon limits, is the Fichtclberg, 3,730 feet above the level of the sea ; and several other points are from 2, '250 to 3,000 feet. This district, the Erzgeberge, is the repository of the mineral wealth of the kingdom. The school of Freiburg has been long celebrated for the skill that prevails in working mines, and the economy which has alone made some of them productive. Freiburg, the capital of the district, 1,180 feet above the level of the sea, is the place where the direction of the mines is carried on. A mining academy was established there in 1 765, where four professors and assistants give instruction in every branch of geology and mineralogy, and teach the practical application of those sciences to the business of these mines. To assist them in the work of teaching, they are furnished with a good library, a cabinet of minerals, and models of the various implements and machinery applicable to mining. The silver mines are in a valley near the city, through which the Mulda, a small stream, but suflliciently large to bring fuel to supply the furnaces, runs. *The mines of Saxony belong to the crown, and their mean annual product is about 400,000 ounces of silver. 500 tons of lead. ■^ .Vlfrkf I's Erdebeschreibung von Kursaclisen. SAXONY. 517 450 tons of cobalt. 125 tons of tin. 30 tons of copper. 5 tons of manganese. 880 tons of sulphur. 800 tons of vitriol. 20,000 tons of coal. 24,000 tons of iron ore, besides smaller articles. The whole country around the mines is filled with manufac- tories, in which a great part of their produce is made into the various kinds of goods for which they are adapted, so that little of the mineral wealth leaves the district where it is raised, without some additional value being bestowed on it. It is to the manufactures carried on in the Erzgebirge, that the high ratio of population is owing, in a country naturally very barren, and where, from the great elevation of most parts of the land, the winter is uncommonly severe, and of very protracted length. By the unfortunate division of the kingdom in 1815, Saxony has lost the mines of salt which were an invaluable treasure ; and, from the transfer of Thuringia, which was her principal granary, she does not now produce sufficient corn for the consumption of her population. I do not think that the agriculture of Saxony is inferior to that of Prussia. In one respect it is superior, as no portion of the soil is wholly without some cultivation ; but that cultivation is far below what the land requires, and the produce much less than the inhabitants of the parts that still remain, must need for their subsistence. I had an opportunity, whilst in Dresden, of examining the 2 S 318 SAXONY. written accounts of several estates belonging to the King, and farmed by himself. These accounts are kept with statistical accuracy, and exhibited with the veracity of official forms, the particulars of the labour executed by each man and horse, the extent of land appropriated to different crops, the quantity of seed corn, the total of the produce that was thrashed out, the particulars of what was consumed by the cattle, and of what was sold, with the prices. The apparatus of book-keeping might, perhaps, have been simplified, but the details of the minutest circumstances were inserted. I was induced to examine these with more attention, because I was at first much surprised to see the increase in the quantity of grain so small, and the profit on the flocks which had the range of vast districts, without any other expense than that of the shepherds, amount to so little. The sheep of Saxony, since the introduction of the Merino race, have yielded one of the principal productions which the country has had to export, and to exchange for those foreign articles that it needs ; and the high price obtained for the wool has been an encouragement to extend the breed. The increase has been great at the same time in the neigh- bouring countries, and the general deadness of trade, both in England and the manufacturing countries on the continent, being added to this increase, has lowered the price, though not to such an extent as to destroy the whole profit on sheep. The exports of Saxony are estimated at about one million sterling, which, besides fine wool, the most considerable part of it consists of manufactured linen, woollen, iron wares, and books. The imports consist of corn, wine, salt, coflcc, tea, tobacco, spices, and dyeing drugs, and, in the present dulness of sale, these somewhat exceed the exports. SAXONY. ojy The kingdom of Saxony, if not a simple monarcliy, approaches very nejirly to it. The states of the kingdom exist, and some- times assemble, but having no ))ower to make laws, to institute inquiries, to examine the public accounts, or even to place a veto on royal decrees, their power is very limited, and has been seldom exercised. The states are rather the representa- tives of the privileged orders than of the nation, and being appointed by the nobles, and the corporations, are more so- licitous to secure the ancient rights of their own bodies, than to give up any part of them for strengthening the crown or benefiting the people. The public income is supposed to be about one million sterling ; a part of it is derived from the domains and royalties of the crown, consisting of farms, woods, and mines ; a part from direct contributions on land, on trades, and on persons, and a part from indirect contributions, in which the nobles are most unjustly favoured. The public debt amounts to about four millions sterling, the interest of which is regularly paid, and it has been reduced nearly one-third since the year 1814, partly by payments, and partly by certain portions of it having been assumed by the King of Prussia. 2 S 2 PRUSSIAN SAXONY, SAXE WEIMAR, AND SAXE GOTHA. PRUSSIAN SAXONY. Leaving Leipslc by the bridge, substituted in the place of that which was blown up towards the conclusion of that decisive battle which will ever make this city celebrated, we gained the fine meadows surrounding the place on that side, and which are bordered by some neat villages, and some few very extensive gentlemen's houses. With these meadows the kingdom of Saxony terminates, and a part of the territory ceded to Prussia, in 1815, intervenes between it and the dutchy of Saxe Weimar. After a gentle ascent, and gaining an open plain of a sandy loam, which is capable of being made very productive, but is now but indifferently cultivated, the road passes over the plain, which has been rendered famous by the two great battles that have taken their names from the town nearest to it. The battle of Liitzen, where Gustavus Adolphus met his death, and which his chancellor Oxenstern gained, was fought on the left hand-side of the road ; and a rough stone, which every traveller turns aside to see, marks the spot where the Swedish hero met his fate. It has no inscri])tion, but simply the date 1632 engraved upon it, in uncouth figures. The field where Buonaparte gained his indecisive, but more bloody victory, over the Russians and Prussians, in 1813, is an English mile to the north of the place where the former battle was fought, and, except a few mounds over the graves of the soldiers, which are gradually sinking to the level of the 324 LUTZEN rest of the land, has nothing to distinguish it. The town of Liitzen is small, but neatly built, containing about 1,100 inhabitants ; but when I passed through it, a large fair filled the market-place, and the inn was so crowded with guests, that I could not find a room to sit in whilst the horses were changing. The assemblage of people at this fair seemed to me out of all proportion to the value of the wares brought to it for sale. The country beyond Liitzen has no variation in character, till the fine vale is opened, through which the Saale runs. On descending to it the prospect is very beautiful, the country rich, and remarkably well planted with every kind of fruit trees. The ridge of hills that bounds this valley is not very steep, and is cultivated to the top. It is stony land, ex- cellent for vines, as far as a plentiful quantity of grapes deserves that character, when the wine they yield is not good, and most profitably applied to make vinegar and brandy. Thus far in Germany, with a few and slight exceptions, no part of the soil rested on any other than a granite bottom ; but near the banks of the Saale, the basis changed in the most definite line I ever observed, and became suddenly calcareous. This was so striking, that in approaching the town of Weis- senfels, it was easy to mark at a distance, by the verdure of the meadows, those which were on a granite, and those which were on a limestone basis. Some of the land was stony, admirably calculated for pease, which, on inquiry, I found were very extensively cultivated on it. The valley is very delightful from the verdure of the meadows, the well-enclosed fields and the newly-built villages, most of which had been destroyed by the war, and have been since rebuilt. The entrance to the city of Weissenfels is gained by NAUMBURG. 323 crossing the Saalc, over a very handsome bridge, 330 feet long. The town has no particular beauties to engage the attention of a traveller ; it is tolerably well built, and though tlie fortifications are destroyed, the gates still remain. There are two Lutheran churches; in one of them, which formerly belonged to a religious house called the Cloister church, the body of Gustavus Adolphus was interred. There is a public seminary for the education of young men, two hospitals, and a large workhouse, where many of the distressed poor arc received. It contains a population of 5,050 persons, a part of whom are employed in making gold and silver ornaments, and some hundreds are occupied in the trade of shoemaking, which is here carried on largely. The salmon caught in this river is very good, and very abundant. The country, from Weissenfcls to Naumburg, on the banks of the Saale, is very beautiful ; it is well enclosed, and tolera- bly wooded ; its general character somewhat resembles that of the banks of the Thames between Henley and Maidenhead ; the hills recede farther from the river, and are covered with vines. The valley itself is equally rich, and equally beautiful. The fruit-trees are very abundant, and the villages thick and populous. Wheat, rye, hops, flax, and clover-seed, are very abundantly raised in the whole district, whilst the meadows afford excellent pasture for horned cattle, which are kept for the sake of butter and cheese, and many are fattened. The city of Naumburg is well built, and the great square has a magnificent appearance. The houses on three sides of it are on piazzas, under which is a promenade that is agreeable in all states of the weather. The private houses are large and well built, and I have seen few cities of its size whose outward appearance is better. 2 T 326 NAUMBURG. The public buildings are a venerable castle in one of the suburbs, and six churches ; one of which, the Domkirche, has some very fine monuments, which arc curious, as specimens of the old German style of decorating the graves of their nobles. The others I did not enter, but they appeared to me much larger than the population could require, however, much dis- posed they may be to attend divine service. The charitable institutions are upon a scale of similar extent to the churches, for there are two orphan houses, six hospitals, and a work- house, all of which enjoy some endowment, as well as collect voluntary contributions. There is a large endowed school, belonging to the Domkirche, and a good library. The inhabitants, including the suburbs, amount to 8,750, some of whom are employed in manufactories of various kinds. A great number are engaged in making turnery goods, and there are besides fabrics for making soap, starch, powder, vitriol, aquafortis, beer, vinegar, and brandy. The trade of the place is flourishing, and the rich country around supplies it amply with fruit, corn, wine, and salt, in which considerable commerce is carried on. I found that near this place, there was a large farm to be let by public auction, and had suflicient curiosity to see it, and to know the particulars of the terms, extent, and wortli of it. It is finely situated on the bank of the river, and the great road passes through it. This property called Schul-pforte, was formerly a nunnery of the Cistertian order, but at the reforma- tion was turned into a public school, or pedagogium, where from one hundred and fifty to one hundred and eighty boys are boarded and instructed gratuitously. The estate with wiiich this establishment was endowed, is in possession of the King of NAUMBURG. 327 Prussia, who out of the profits, pays the expenses of the pro- fessors and the board of the pupils. The farm consists of 770 acres of open field land, 2,000 acres of enclosed land, 145 acres of rich old meadow, sixteen acres of garden ground, extensive orchards, hop garden and vineyards. The premises are capacious and handsome, consisting of a good dwelling, barns, stables, and cow-houses; and besides these, a brewery, water-mill, bake-house, and considerable lime-kilns, with the use of agricultural implements and harness. A lease of twelve years is to be granted to the best bidder ; but the minimum must be 21, 668 Prussian dollars, or three thousand three hundred pounds sterling, being scarcely twenty shillings an acre for the land, allowing nothing for the premises, and the use of the implements. The same land in England would let, in spite of the depressed state of agriculture, at more than forty shillings an acre, without any of the contingencies attached to these premises. I was, however, told, that the capital which this undertaking required was so large, that little or no competition was expected, and that not much more than the upset price was likely to be obtained. Near this city are the salt springs, the loss of which is severely felt in the dominions still left to the King of Saxony ; the brine is not very strong, containing only six per cent, of salt. It is evaporated by turf, as being the cheapest fuel in this country. These springs issue from the mountains, which rise in prodigious masses near the town. After leaving Naumburg, I soon reached the foot of the mountains, from which the brine springs issue, and to ease the horses, as well as to enjoy the fine prospect of the picturesque country, which displayed itself during the gradual ascent, I walked an hour till I reached the top of the hills, and 2 T 2 328 SAXE WEIMAR. lost on the plain that was there spread out, the fine scenery which had cheered the toil of a long and winding road to the summit. The country I had reached, was the beginning of the dominions of the Duke of Saxe Weimar. With the elevation, the character of the country had changed ; the soil was a clayey loam, upon a calcareous basis. It was not, however, stiflP, but worked easily. I saw some ploughs with a single horse ; they do indeed, but scratch the ground, and yet the rye which was the principal production, looked healthy and well ; it had, however, been sowed in the early part of September, as some peasants told me, in the villages I passed through. The other land looked full of weeds, as might be expected from such very shallow ploughing. The farms in the populous villages I passed through are small, and the occupiers very poor, without the means of pro- viding sufficient horses for the requisite tillage, or cattle to create manure. I saw some ploughing performed by two half- starved cows. These small occupiers live harder and work harder than day-labourers, and yet are unable to increase their small store. I observed, however, through the whole of this district, that there was a great abundance of fruit trees ; every farm-house was surrounded with them, and I under- stood, that the produce of apples, pears, plums, and cherries, is very great. On this hilly plain, I first saw sainfoin to any considerable extent. I had remarked small patches of it near Weissenfels, but here the portions of it are large, and it seems to be the only plant they have from which to make hay. It was culti- vated in a very slovenly manner, and was filled with abundance of other grasses as well as weeds, and instead of remaining. SAXE WEIMAR. 32.Q as it does in England, ten or twelve years for hay, it generally becomes choked and unproductive, after being mowed three or four times. As I passed along the road, the spot was pointed out to me, but at some distance on the left hand, where was fought, in ]806, the battle of Jena, the consequences of which led to a depression of the Prussian monarchy for the succeeding six years ; till the war, known in this country by the name of the war of deliverance, again raised it to its former elevation. As I approached Weimar, the country became more undu- lating, and discovered many deep ravines, which the winter torrents, formed by the melting of the snow on the hills, had worn through the soft lime-stone rocks whicii compose the basis of this district. Within two or three miles of the city, the Grand Duke's plantations by the side of the road gave a variety to the appearance of the country ; and the stubble fields which bordered on them were more plentifully stocked with pheasants than any country I ever passed through. They were walking about very leisurely, undisturbed by the noise of the carriage ; and, in their habits, more resembled barn-door fowls than undomesticated birds. Their tameness arises from their being unattacked, as every one is prohibited by the Duke from killing them by very severe penalties ; and he, with his party, do not commence their campaign till Christmas. The soil here was changed to a rich black mould, and the rye appeared very luxuriant. The villages are thickly placed, and very populous, but the scarcity of cattle evinced a degree of poverty, which is a wonderful contrast to the wealth dis- played by the flocks and herds fed on similar soils in England. On this tract, besides the luxuriant appearance of the growing rye, the stubbles of the late harvest proved the goodness of 530 WEIMAR. the soil, which is highly productive, in spite of the bad culture which the poverty of the occupiers induces. There are few places that inspire more interest, in those who have paid any attention to German literature, than the city of Weimar. It has been called the Athens of Germany ; and, at one period, contained within it some of the greatest names that Europe has produced. Schiller, Wieland, Goethe, and Herder, were living here at the same period, and formed a con- stellation, amongst whose stars of the inferior magnitude were Musaeus, Falk, and Kotzebue. Though, with the exception of Goethe, who resides at Jena, they are all dead, there still remains a taste for knowledge and information pretty generally diffused, which is patronised by the Duke, and fostered by a literary institution which flourishes in this small city. Whilst, in the other parts of the empire, the press is under restriction, or subjected to a previous censure, here it has been suffered to exist without any other controul, than what is created by the desire to publish nothing which shall be deemed so offensive in the other states as to check the circulation. Under this influence of a free press, there has grown up here a private establishment, which comprehends the whole process of the manufactory of books and maps, from the col- lecting materials for composing them to the binding and selling them. The Lnudes-industiie-comploir belongs to a gentleman of great merit and perseverance, who is connected with his son-in-law, a man of great talents, learning, and enterprise. The building resembles a j)alacc, both in extent and elegance of exterior; within it, besides the residences of the partners, there are dwellings for the various persons who arc engaged in litt^raturc, or the occupations connected with it ; four luindred WEIMAR. 331 persons are constantly living- in the house. These comprehend several respectable writers engaged in works of general circula- tion, or in the composition of periodical publications, engravers, copper-plate and letter-press printers, and painters. One great object is the construction of maps, with which tlie greater part of Germany is supplied. As far as relates to their own country, these maps are correct ; when they delineate foreign and distant countries, they must depend on conflicting autho- rities, and, therefore, like the rest of the profession, sometimes fall into errors ; but I believe as much pains is taken here to avoid them as by composers in any part of Europe. These maps are executed in a coarse manner, and printed on bad paper, and, consequently, can be rendered very cheap. A large military map of Germany, contained in two hundred and twenty sheets, has lately been published, and is sold on common paper for fifty-nine rix-dollars, (about nine pounds,) and on fine paper for seventy-nine. The single sheet maps, even when coloured, are sold for less than one shilling and sixpence. The stone printing, upon the same principle as I saw it at Berlin, is carried on in this establishment, and applied to plans of battles, towns, and fortifications. I was shewed an ingenious, if not a useful, plan of making globes. The wooden globe is covered with plaster of Paris, and then varnished. The maps are engraved in the inner side of two half copper globes which exactly fit that covered with the plaster of Paris. The ink is applied to the inner part of these copper half globes, and, when fitted to them, comnumicates the impression to the plas- ter of Paris. By this process there are no joinings in the map, as occur in our common globes. The globes, when finished, have certainly a beautiful appearance ; but I much 33'i WEIMAR. doubt if there be any advantage so considerable as to cause the general adoption of this plan of making them. From this institution, there issues a very valuable pe- riodical geographical w^ork, called the Epiiemeriden, which contains notices of all new facts in geography, and criticisms on such new books or maps as are produced. Translations from the English and French popular works are executed on the premises, and pass through the press, as well as many books originally compiled or composed in this city. A very minute and accurate geographical manual is in course of publication, of which, I believe, six volumes have already appeared, the composition of four men of considerable cele- brity and great industry in statistical pursuits. These are Hassell, Gaspari, Cannabich, and Gutsmuths, whose volumes, if finished as they are commenced, will be a complete work of statistical geography. The principal proprietor of this concern is a great horticul- turist, and with that tendency to classification which the whole nation seems to cultivate, has composed a work on potatoes, divided very minutely, if not accurately, into their several species. In order to have correct drawings, he had formed a collection of models of potatoes, in wax, of the size and colour of nature, which were neatly arranged in a cabinet. The work had drawings of each, and a printed description in German and French. The large garden belonging to this gentleman, and attached to the establishment, was laid out with taste, and the green- houses and forcing-houses, which contained many curious exotic plants, were managed with an attention to economy in the use of fuel that I much admired. The cit) of Weimar contains {^,,'350 inhabitants, exclusive of WEIMAR. 33.3 the few military and the court, which together cannot make the whole 9,000 ; but from it, at one period, there issued more newspapers than from the whole city of Paris. Though, from their titles and their professed objects, they were not appa- rently political, they were made subservient to the propagation of discontent, and the production of exaggerated expecta- tions from an ideal state of reform or revolution which have been very injurious to practical liberty. The Isis was professedly a physiological journal, but its main though covert design was to inflame the minds of the young men, by fan- tastical representations of human nature and human govern- ments. The Annubis professed to be a metaphysical work, but its metaphysics were directed against all religions and all governments. The Osiris, the Nemesis, and the Patriot, were avowedly political. These have, however, all disappeared, and left only the " Oppositions Blait," the Opposition Leaf, which is published daily, and the editor of which has acquired the tact of writing it in such a style as not to create any impediment to its general circulation through all the states of Germany, and yet with such spirit as to make it extensively perused. The theatre of Weimar has long been looked up to by all the people of Germany, who felt an interest in stage repre- sentations. It was the place from which emanated those plays of Schiller and of Goethe which will be rapturously admired as far as the language of those great poets is known, whilst the love of natural representations of the powerful emotions of the human mind, and exhibitions of characters, in all their force and energy, shall continue to give delight. This was the native place of Kotzebue, an author of more merit than can be allowed him by the readers of his translated 2 U 334 WEIMAR. works ; for except his " Virgin of the Sun," and " the Spaniards in Peru," which have been converted into the English piece, entitled Pizarro, his plays are so completely representations of characters and situations, exclusively national, that without an acquaintance with such characters and situations, they cannot be properly appreciated. Some of his first efforts were made here, and well received, and his later pieces are as great favourites in Weimar as in the other cities on the continent where the German language is spoken. I was at the theatre three or four times, and enjoyed more pleasure from it than from any others I had visited. The house is small, well calculated for hearing, with most neatly appropriate scenery and decorations. The costume of the performers, the representations of the characters, and the appearance of what was meant as the inside of houses, excited in me much surprise, by the accuracy of the delineation, of which I was tolerably enabled to judge. The piece I refer to was a recent one by Kotzebue. The scene was in Spain ; the events supposed to happen between a native of Germany, an officer in the French army, and Spanish nobles, priests, peasants, and females, of whose dwellings the troops he commanded had taken possession. I do not think that in Spain itself, the dress and manners of the people, or the appear- ance of the interior and exterior of the houses, could have been more minutely or more accurately copied. In the other pieces I saw performed, the same rigid regard was paid to all the circumstances peculiar to their characters, the talent of the writer was admirably seconded by the attention and skill of the manager, and the actors being excellent, the illusion became complete, and enabled the spectators to enter with feeling into the spirit of the whole performance. WEIMAR. 335 In these small cities, the seat of a court, more attention is paid to rank than in lare;er capitals. I remarked it here, because boxes on one side the house are appropriated to the nobles, and on the other to the citizens. I thoui>,ht the latter the better looking class, and I am sure they were by far the best dressed. Tiie distinction of being received or not received at court is kept up in tiiis city as well as in Dresden; but so little is the privilege esteemed, that many persons who might go, and would be flatteringly received, are too inde- pendent to accept the honour. The palace of the Grand Duke is a handsome and extensive modern building, forming three sides of a square, sufficiently capacious to accommodate the various establishments of the different personages of the Sovereign's family. The apartments occupied by the family are handsomely but not splendidly furnished, more in the French than the English style. There is, however, less to remark in the building than in the gardens and in the park, which is separated from it by the small river Ilm. It is small, but laid out with some taste, approaching in its manner to Kensington Gardens, but more favoured from the ground being somewhat vmdulating. An antique temple in one part of it exhibits an appropriate object, and is useful -as well as ornamental, from the back of it forming a green- house. The ducal library, like others in Germany, is a liberal insti- tution, allowing not only of reading in the building, but of borrowing any books to take home. The Duke is fond of literature, and curious to know what passes in other countries. A gentleman in London sends him, periodically, an account of all books published in England with his critical remarks on them, by which the purchases are regulated. Whilst I was in '2 u 2 336 WEIMAR. Weimar, the recent publications were received, consisting not only of the most prominent periodical works, but of such other books as his intelligent correspondent had represented in a favourable light. The collection of books in the library, consists of about ] 10,000 volumes; some very ancient, on the topography and history of Germany, many on various branches of natural history, many on civil law some on history, geo- graphy, and natural philosophy. The ancient works are by far the most numerous. The whole are badly arranged. The pictures are generally very indifferent, some were copies, the originals of which I had seen in Dresden. The most valuable were some portraits of the age, and somewhat in the style of Albert Durer, which are very good. Some busts display the admirable skill of the statuary ; a colossal one of Schiller is very fine, and the other heads of the eminent men that flou- rished here, Wieland, Herder, and Goethe, are well executed. One of the most pleasing objects belonging to the Duke of Weimar, that I had an opportunity of viewing is Belvedere. It is about two miles from the city, on the side of a hill that overlooks it, and is approached through a fine avenue of lime and chestnut trees. The palace has nothing very striking ex- cept the situation, which is fine ; but the gardens, green- houses, and forcing-houses are laid out in a style of considerable elegance. The orangery is peculiarly tasteful ; and through it, as well as the rest of this assemblage of vegetable beauty, there are excellent avenues, so that the visitors may approach and examine any of the numerous assortments of exotic plants, here brought together. In the centre of these buildings, a room is appropriately decorated for the reception of any parties that may choose to repair to them, and indulge them- selves in viewing the surrounding collections of botanic scieiice, WEIMAR. 337 whilst regaling themselves with coffee or tea, which may be provided at a trifling expense by the attendants. The city of Weimar has nothing to recommend it. It is a strange contrast of a few good buildings, with many wretched habitations. Most of the streets are narrow, crooked, and ill- paved, and the market-place is small, but has a handsome fountain in its centre, which is almost the only elegant object within the city of a public nature. There are two Lutheran churches, in one of which is the vault of the sovereign's family, and some good portraits, by a German painter of celebrity, Lucas Kranach. In the buryijig-ground belonging to the other church, rest the bodies of Schiller, one of the first of German poets, of Musaeus, and some other men of literary fame. The Catholics and the Greeks, have each a chapel for their modes of worship, the latter is principally used by the consort of the heir-apparent and her suite. She is a Russian princess, sister to the Emperor Alexander, and has a religious establishment on a small scale, for the sect to which she adheres. Tiie charita- ble institutions for the sick and indigent, and for the education of the poor, are upon a scale of liberality similar to that of other cities in this country. They are partly endowed, and partly exist by voluntary contributions. The manufactories and trade of Weimar are very inconsider- able, a little woollen cloth is made here, and some linen and silk goods, for the consumption of the city. Hats are made, and some of them are sent to the fair of Leipsic. The breweries and distilleries are employed to supply the city. The only other trade is in corn, which is sent from hence to the mining district in the kingdom of Saxony. Agriculture is the principal pursuit of this duchy, the sovereign has an enthusiastic attachment to it, and takes such 336 WEIMAR. measures to promote it as he thinks best ; whether they are, is more doubtful than the goodness of his intentions. The ancient laws and customs appear to me to be the principal impediments, and these he cannot alter ; but others arise from being sur- rounded with great and powerful states, whose governments are jealous of each other. In my rides round the city, I had opportunities of viewing the general plan of cultivation, which is contined almost exclusively to the three-course rotation, that prevails in tlie other parts of Germany. The Grand Duke's farms attracted my attention, and I visited several of them. One at Old Weimar had nothing to be remarked, but the filthy condition in which the cattle are kept, from a deficiency of straw, and the singular attempt to propagate the race of buffaloes in this country. The Duke has several of them here with young- ones, but the experiment is scarcely worth making, as their meat is much inferior to that of our European cows. At another farm, about four miles north-west from the city, on the side of a hill, I found the sheep in their houses, feeding on barley-straw, the grain of which had not ripened, and w^as therefore unthrashed. The ewes of the flock were 340 in number, and had produced in the preceding year 274 lambs ; they were all of the Merino race. One farm, at about nine miles from Weimar, was by far the best-conducted concern of any I had visited in Saxony. The Duke's agent is a man of substantial property, and manages his own farm, and that of his sovereign, extremely well. The whole estate is 900 sheffels, eight-elevenths of an English acre; of this, J75 shcfl'cls are laid down to sainfoin. The mode of doing it, is to make a year's clean fallow, then to sow it with wheat or rye; after that with barley or oats, and with the WEIMAR. 339 spring-corn to sow the sainfoin seed. It remains for hay five years ; in the sixth it is fed by sheep, and then ploughed up, and the three-course rotation followed with it. In the five years that it is mowed, it scarcely produces five tons of hay ; exclusive of the sainfoin there is no iiay or pasture land, and only ten sheft'els in green crops of turnips, mangel-wurzel, and cole-rueben. The corn land is on the three-course rotation ; but, on every tiiird rotation, a clean year's fallow is made. The effects of this, as well as of the abundance of live-stock, which creates manure, is visible in the fields, and is very sensibly experienced at the harvest. The average increase is ten for one in wheat, rye, and barley; and fourteen for one in oats, as the Verwalter assured me, and I saw good reason to believe him. The wages of a labouring man are ninepcnce a day without, and sixpence with food; which consists of rye-bread or potatoes. The thrasii- ers receive the fourteenth sack of corn for their labour. The dairy consisting of sixteen cows is well managed ; and, in ad- dition to their other food, they have each ten oil-cakes per week. I was much pleased with the civility that was every where shown by the country people, and the patience they evinced in satisfying my inquiries ; by which I generally endeavoured first to obtain information about the measures of capacity, and also of land, which vary in almost every village. The first and most materials questions, were such as could enable me to find some common standard of measures, by which to obtain any estimate of the productive effects of their mode of farming. The price of land, in this district, varies more within a small compass, than in any other where I have had the means of obtaining information. Some of the land is poor and stony, and in this country, where there is no capital to expend upon 340 WEIMAR. it, is literally worth nothing, except to make plantations as cover for game. Tlie land in the valleys is worth from 150 to 200 rix-dollars per acre, according to its quality, and to the feudal rights which are attached to it. On some parts of their inferior land, gypsum is found, which is used for manure with beneficial effects. Much of the worst land has been planted in a very careless manner, not with a view to profit, but to create rough bushy places, as harbour for game. The Duke is generally beloved by his subjects, and the only complaints that are uttered against him originate in his attachments to tlie sports of the field, to which the comfort and the interests of all under him are too much sacrificed. His woods abound with both kinds of deer, and with wild swine, and are plentifully stocked with hares, pheasants, and partridges. The distinction betwixt dift'erent kinds of game is strictly marked, and deer, wild swine, and pheasants, under the name of the liolte jogd, must only be killed by those of noble blood. The permission given here, as well as in Prussia and Saxony of late, to burghers to purchase knights tenures, has indeed made an exception ; and some of those tenures, though not all, have this right of ho/ie jagd attached to them. In general these animals may be said to be exclusively preserved for the sport of the princes. The mode of hunting, (for so it is called, though the game is killed with guns), is by ordering the peasants of the villages in a certain district, to form an extensive circle and inclose the game ; this circle is gradually contracted, till the whole enclosed within it, is driven towards the spot, where the party armed with guns, and accompanied by dogs, performs the operations of butchers, rather than of sportsmen. On some occasions, a thousand hares have been killed in one WEIMAR. 341 day, and have been afterwards sold in the city at a shilling each. In the beginning of January, each year, as many pheasants are killed, which are also sold ; and partridges may be commonly bought for about three-pence each. The liberties of England may be said in some measure to have originated from contests relating to the forest laws ; and the tenacity of the King and the nobles respecting the chace, produced good effects, far beyond the ideas of those who were engaged in the struggle. In Germany, though I have heard much wild declamation about the rights of man, I have not heard those who assume the denomination of Liberals, turn their wrath against the game laws, or talk of them as some of their evils. They seem to me to be more ready to exclaim against evils that arise from the inevitable distinctions of society, and which must always exist, than against such as admit of a practical remedy. A measure, adopted by the sovereigns of Prussia, Saxony, and some others, is beginning to produce a good effect, and may lead to important consequences at some future time,— I mean the permission to alienate estates, even those which could formerly be held by none but nobles. This enables thepea- sants or copy-holders to purchase those feudal rights of hunt- ing, of personal service, and stipulated work for their cattle, which, though secured, and as sacred as any other property, are found more harassing to the peasantry than profitable to the lords. The sovereigns favour such sales, and the courts of justice do all they can, by stretching the law in favour of the tenants, to second the views of the princes. In almost every case that comes before the courts, the decision is in favour of the tenants. Where the law and the covenants are so strongly on the side of the lords that they cannot be 2 X 342 WEIMAR. resisted, the judges sometimes delay the decision till the object contended for ceases to be of any importance ; and then, in pronouncing judgment in favour of the lord, recommend him not to enforce his rights. An instance related to me is the best illustration of this feeling of the courts. The proprietor of a large estate and a castle on it, with many copyholders under him in several villages, found it necessary to rebuild his residence. The tenants were bound by precedents and covenants to draw stone from certain quarries, when the manorial house required to be rebuilt. They were called upon to perform these services, which, on various pretences, were refused. Suits were commenced against them, but proceeded more slowly than the building, for the stone was dug, and the wood pre- pared, before the refusals were known. By the time the house was finished, the court decreed that the services should be performed, but those services were no longer wanted, and, perhaps, may not be needed for the next hundred years. The lord might have instituted other processes to obtain compen- sation, but this would have given rise to disputes and discussions on the value of other services in place of those which had not been performed when tl>ey were needed. The court certainly would not have ordered a compensation in money ; but, perhaps, in some other labour which the lord might not require, and even then recommend him not to enforce his demand. When the tenant or copyholder is bound to plough a certain quantity of land for his lord, or to execute any other work, it maybe well imagined, that he will choose the most convenient time for himself, and perforin it in the easiest, which is gene- rally the worst, manner. If contentions arise, and it becomes WEIMAR. 343 the duty of the courts to decide, as I said before, they usually do so in favour of the tenant. It may be easily supposed, that such a state of things very much favours the sale of those harassing claims to those tenants who are able to pay for them. There can be no doubt but the converting these copyholders into freeholders would in time produce a considerable effect, if the progress of the operation were not checked by those ancient laws, which it is difficult in every country to alter. On the death of a peasant, his land must be disposed of, not according to his will, but among all his family; and thus, a number of small farms are created, often of ten or twelve acres, on which a family cannot subsist, except by living wholly on potatoes, and whose owner is superior in rank, but inferior in comforts, to a day-labourer. An alteration in this system seems to me indispensable, in order to give due effect to the permission to sell land and feudal rights to those who are not nobles. With a friend from Weimar I went to spend a day in seeing Jena, where he had formerly studied. The road was, for six or seven miles, the same which I had passed in coming from Naumburg. The city is in a valley, and is first seen when descending a steep hill, by a winding road. The valley is surrounded by naked and lofty rocks, which tower above it, but whose lower sides are covered with vineyards and fruit- trees, in which a number of neat white garden-houses give a relief to the scenery. A fine Gothic mass of ruins on the top of one of the hills overlooks the beautiful vale, and produces a good effect on the whole landscape. The river Saale runs at the side of the city, and waters some verdant meadows. The walks in the environs are very agreeable. If the vicinity n X 2 344 JENA. pleased me much, I was no less disgusted with the appearance of Jena itself. I certainly had anticipated something ap- proaching to Oxford and Cambridge. There are, however, no Gothic or any other halls. The professors deliver their lectures at their own houses, or rather lodgings, where the youths may or may not attend them, as they please. The students live wherever they can hire an apartment, and are under no restraint for the purposes of enforcing either study or morality. The streets and houses present a picture of filth and poverty beyond any thing I have seen in Germany, and there is nothing about the miserable place that could give one the idea of its being a seat of learning. The Botanic Garden and the Observatory seemed to be in a neglected state ; and a single room, neither large, ancient, nor handsome, in which the professors sometimes meet on public business, is the only thing that can be called the University. The usual number of under-graduates was about twelve hundred, but they do not at present amount to two hundred and fifty. I am satisfied that none of the other places for education in Germany are so bad as Jena. Drinking, smok- ing, and duelling, were, for a long time, the prevailing prac- tices among the young men ; and some of the professors, not much older than their pupils, often joined in, if they did not encourage, such habits. TJie party societies, called Lcnuhmamliafls^ did not, however, assume a form purely political, till the French were expelled from Germany ; but they soon after became the depositaries of all those fervid feelings which naturally spring in youtliful minds, freed from restraint, especially when more encouraged by their superiors to indulge in dreams of political speculation, than to JENA. 34.5 apply to their studies, which shouhl be the principal objects in such seminaries, and by vv^hich alone they can become qualified, after some years' experience in active life, to act the part of teachers, magistrates, or legislators. The professors, men of much knowledge of books, but with no other knowledge of mankind than could be gained within the precincts of this city, possessing those enthusiastic feelings almost peculiar to Germany, dreamt in their closets, that they could overturn the order of European society, and recast it in a perfect mould. Their process was short ; to destroy every thing first, and then try if they could agree on some plan of a new erection. This summary was easily taught and quickly imbibed ; the more rash and thoughtless the pupil, the quicker could the lesson be communicated. Instead of a seminary of learning, Jena became the hot bed of sedition ; and fantastic dresses were assumed, and daggers carried with " the ornament of a citizen" on the blade, to imitate ancient republican forms ; coarseness of manners increased, where they had never been very polished, and instead of applying to classics and mathematics, their time was spent in gymnastic exercises, to qualify them for revolutionary movements ; or in spouting societies, which inflamed, but could not instruct, them. A knowledge of such practices and feelings being encou- raged, was more than suflicient to justify the dismissal of the most noxious professors, and the prohibition on the youthful subjects of Russia and Prussia to repair to Jena, under the pretext of education. The governments of Germany have been most freely abused by those calling themselves Liberals, for doing that which with half the reason would be instantly done in this land of liberty ; 346 JENA. where, though political discussion is indulged, it would never be suffered to engross those valuable years of youth, which, if once squandered in such agitating occupations, can never be redeemed. As the universities of Germany have of late years engaged a large portion of the public attention, I may be indulged with some more general remarks on the nature of those institutions. The most remarkable circumstance relating to them is their total freedom from the municipal laws, which govern the coun- tries in which they are established. Neither the professors, the students, nor the members of their families, were amenable to the general laws ; but all affairs, whether civil or criminal, were judged by courts within the universities, the judges of which were appointed from among the superior professors. The professors, though appointed by the princes, in whose dominions the universities were founded, had but small salaries either from the estates of the colleges, or from the treasuries of their princes. The emoluments of their offices depended principally on their making themselves acceptable to their pupils, who attended such lectures as they chose, and paid a stipulated sum for each course. In general, those professors, who were the most eminent for learning, in the different branches they taught, were most numerously attended ; but none of them could wholly disregard the arts of popularity, though such arts were less obvious with them, than witli the teachers of a lower standard. The magis- trates of the university, the higher professors, however, were compelled to pay deference to the opinions, and the caprices of the young men, and were influenced by them in their judi- cial capacity, whenever disputes arose between the students and the inhabitants. The latter, under the denomination of JENA. 347 Philisters, Philistines, were exposed to every species of in- dignity from the former ; and those who were to judge in the complaints made against the pupils were disposed to treat grave offences as youthful follies, and to inflict such slight punishments as rather tended to encourage, than repress, mis- conduct. In such a state of misrule, where the judges were more desirous to obtain for their university such a character for liberality as might attract pupils, than to enforce submission to the laws they administered, it was natural, that discipline should be relaxed. In order to induce among the students some attention to rules, the division of them into orders or societies was winked at, if not encouraged ; and out of these grew associations, which though originally, perhaps of an innocent nature, became the depositaries of every species of disorder. These societies, called Lamhmans/wjh, were con- nected together by various kinds of links, which not only comprehended those of the same university, but the students of all the universities of Germany. A system of regulations was at length established among the whole, which bore the title of the comment, and demanded implicit obedience, under the penalty of an interdict of a most intolerable kind. The interdict called verriif, forbade any student from associating with the person who had violated the comment, and allowed any one to insult him without being called to account. This power of interdict was sometimes extended to particular tradesmen, who had offended the students, and at length proceeded so far as to place the whole university of Gottingen, with all its professors, under the ban. By a resolution of the youths, no one, not a subject of Hanover, was allowed to study at that university ; and if any 548 JENA. should attempt it, the natives of the kingdom, who were com- pelled to graduate there, to qualify them for offices in the state or the church, were ordered to banish them from all their societies. Although some of the laws of the comment were conducive to learning, as far as regarded quietness and order in the lecture rooms, yet many of them were harassing and vexatious, and well calculated to generate disputes, which terminated in duels. Any one, who in conversation with another, applied the term ridiculous, childish, foolish, or even wonderful, or extraordinary, to him, was compelled to single combat, from which no apology or explanation was allowed by the comment to excuse him. As the number of these duels was great, the formalities of them were regulated by the same system of students-law ; and though almost always bloody, they were seldom fatal. Neither pistols, nor swords to thrust were used on such occasions ; the only weapon was the short sabre or hanger, and the number of rounds that were to be fought was proscribed. If I could judge from what I heard, and from the marks of the wounds in the faces of many of the young men, I should think, that the beauty of the combatants was more endangered than their lives, by such rencontres. The governments of Germany had their attention frequently called to this conduct in the universities ; but it was observed by them, and acknowledged by those who reprobated the system, that the period of turbulence which the youths passed in their seminaries, had little or no inHuence on their cha- racters or conduct in future life. It was remarked, that those wiio luul been distinguished l)y their irregularities, their /(uarrels, and their dissoluteness, when they retired front the JENA. 349 scene, and the incitements to such youthful excesses, becanne as exemplary in the humble character of parish priest, of attor- ney, of advocate, or of officer of the government as the more orderly among them. The wish to appear as the patrons of education, which inspired all the princes of Germany, induced them to bid against each other for such professors, as enjoyed the reputa- tion of great learning ; and little attention was paid in their appointment, to those faculties, which are, perhaps, of more importance in a seminary; to that unison of firmness with urbanity, upon which discipline must depend. In these seminaries, there was little or no discipline, for though the learned magistrates promulgated laws and regula- tions without number, and extended them to the most frivolous minuteness, they were scarcely ever enforced, and never when the students disapproved of their execution. In fact, both the princes and the professors were jealous of the reputation of their universities ; and, for the sake of increasing the number of the pupils, were disposed to gratify their caprices, rather than correct them. In Germany, as in every other part of Europe, there is a party wholly bent on mischief, but too small and contemptible to effect any of their nefarious purposes, without allies of a more respectable class. These were found among numerous speculative men, with indistinct views and impracticable pro- jects, who attributed those evils, which are the inevitable con- sequences of all society to some fault in their constitutions, or their governors. These men, zealous for reforms, neither the utility or practicability of which they had fully considered, became the followers of the more envenomed class, and uncon- sciously were enlisted under their standards. The general 2 y 350 J'-^NA. distress which the long war had inflicted, came in aid of this party, and increased their numbers. The ardour of the stu- dents, and their uncontrolled and increased licentiousness, was an inviting field on which to try the experiment of a revolution, and it was occupied with eagerness. Many of the professors, whose exclusion from active life might be an apology for their principles, but should have prevented them from interference in matters beyond their contemplation, became the tools of the worst class of their countrymen, and encouraged among the pupils such political associations as were unfitted to their age, and could only tend to injure the state of society. By these associations, a degree of fanaticism was kindled among the young men, which showed itself in excesses in many of the universities, and which at length led, under vague sur- mises, such as only fanaticism could imbibe, to the assassina- tion of Kotzebue, and the similar attempt on Ibell, the pre- sident of Nassau, which have been before noticed. Happily the attention of the different princes was called to this subject, before the folly of these youths had plunged them deeper in crime ; and the laws that have been enacted, and the measures that are pursued, will, it is to be hoped, prevent the severe punishments which it would otherwise be necessary to inflict on a greater number of them than are now likely to suffer. Whatever political or economical reforms, the states of Germany may need, such as are suggested by the prompters of these young men, and such as they most vehemently clamoured for, in moments of enthusiasm, would produce greater calamities than even those which were inflicted by the domination of France. Though the representation I have given of the conduct of the universities applies to its members generally, yet I am JENA. , 351 persuaded, there are several young men of most respectable characters, who have kept themselves as far removed as possi- ble from the associations I have spoken of, and quite free from the disorders which have naturally sprung from them. They are, liowever, exceptions to the general rule, and when compared with the mass, form but a small portion. In all the German universities, differing as they do in some respects from each other, the mode of conveying instruction is by lectures, the compositions of the professors who read them. The number of these lectures is very great ; some of the professors deliver five or six of an hour long each, every day. Their compositions are methodically arranged, and read in so slow a manner, that those who attend them may commit to writing, the heads and leading thoughts, if not the whole. They are most minutely particular, and leave little occasion for the students to read books on the subjects of which they treat. These occupy so much of the time, both of the professors and pupils, that only those of the latter who are very diligent, find leisure to examine other authorities, than those of the lecturer. In many respects, the modes of instructing approach nearer to those of the Scotch, than of the English universities ; but at Halle, at Tubingen, and some few others, where the best classical scholars are formed, the practice of versification, and the attention to prosody, occupy as large a portion of the time of the students as in our collegiate schools of Eton, West- minster, and Winchester, I had one inducement to visit Jena, in which I was disap- pointed ; a friend had conditionally promised to meet me, and introduce me to Goethe, who has taken up his residence there ; but my friend was unable to join me, and I was deprived of the pleasure of making an acquaintance with that extraordinary 2 Y 2 352 ' SENA. man. He is said to be in good health, but living in great seclusion, and seeing few people. I heard a story of him, which, being short, may be worth preserving. A minor poet had addressed some verses to one of the reigning family, which contained some most exaggerated compliments. In criticising the production, the old poet remarked, that " there was too much sugar in the composition ; that princes were pleased at sugar-plums being given to them, but did not like being pelted with sugar-loaves." Jena contains, exclusive of the University, 4,500 inhabitants. It has three Lutheran, and one Catholic church. I went to one of the former, where a venerable looking divine preached to an attentive audience, a loyal rather than a religious sermon, on the duties which subjects owe to their princes, which he extended rather farther than was quite consistent with English constitutional feelings. Jena does not wholly depend on its University, but is the seat of some of the courts of justice, and of some other public boards. It has also some manufactures of woollen cloth, stockings, and hats, and a few of linen, but all of them of inconsiderable magnitude. At the battle that took place on the plain above this city, in October, 1806', the French were conducted through some ravines by a clergyman, who was pressed into the painful service. When they reached the summit, a fog so dense as to impede the sight of near objects is said, by the Prussians, to have given their enemies all the advantages of a surprise, and to have caused the disasters of that calamitous day. Jena suffered severely af'er the battle ; and, for three days, was given up to the plunder of the French troops. The dominions of tlie Grand Duke of Saxe Weimar are much SAXE WEIMAR. 353 intersected by other states. In one part, they are crossed by the territory of Prussia, in another by that of Saxe Gotha, of Saxe Meiningen, and Schwartzburg. *The whole extent of the Duchy is 1,407 square miles on 900,480 acres. Its inhabitants are 201,000, so that the density of its population nearly equals that of the best peopled agricultural English counties. The number of houses is 39,198, of these 38,988 are insured in the fire-office of the capital, for the sum of 12,190,525 rix-dollars, or 1,978,400 pounds sterling, being about 500 pounds each, on the average. The greater part of the inhabitants are of the Lutheran profession ; they amount to 184,700, the Reformed to 6,100, the Catholics 100, the Jews 1,100, and the rest are of the smaller Protestant sects. The Duke has very wisely reduced his army, and thus freed his subjects from the conscription ; his regular troops do not exceed fifty men ; the landwehr, or militia, consists of about 18,000, not more than 5,000 of whom are furnished with muskets. The income of the state is about £150,000, exclusive of the Duke's patrimonial property, which is very considerable. The revenue exceeds the expenditure, and about £10,000 is annu- ally appropriated to a sinking fund, to extinguish the debt incurred during the late war, which amounted, in 1818, to about £600,000. The whole executive government is in the Duke ; but an assembly, chosen by the possessors of land of Knight's tenure, by the cities, and by the peasants, may be called together, when new laws or new taxes are wanted. It is chiefly an agricultural country, but there are some few manufactures, * Hassel, 1st part of the 5th Volume. 354 ERFURT. though they are principally consumed at home. The most valuable article sent from the country is the tine wool ; besides it, some dried fruits, hosiery, implements for linen, and woollen-workers, potash, some linen, and many books and maps, are exported. As the only good road from Cassel, and from Frankfort to Leipsic, is through this country, it is some- what enriched by the transport of goods, and the great flux of travellers that pass through it twice in the year. At leaving Weimar, the country is very bare in its aspect, and the soil of a sandy nature. The ascent is gradual till the road enters a portion of the recently-acquired Prussian dominions, which projects into the Duchy of Saxe Weimar. This small district, called the circle of Erfurt, consists of a portion of rich land, which surrounds the city of that name. The city of Erfurt is very strongly fortified, and has two citadels : Petersberg, on a hill on one side of the city, and Fort Cyriaksberg on the other. From its position on the highway to the great scene of the military operations, which terminated in the liberation of Europe from the dominion of France, it has suffered much by the incessant quartering of troops, and by several sieges, so that the inhabitants have become generally impoverished, and have not yet recovered from the dreadful miseries which they have undergone. After passing the gates, and entering the outskirts of the city, the marks of suffering are seen in the dilapidated state of the dwellings, and the ragged and coarse dresses of the inha- bitants. The centre of the city exhibits one or two very fine broad well-built streets, and some open places, which can scarcely merit the name of squares. Being the capital of what formerly was an independent state, the number of public buildings, such as churches, monasteries, ERFURT. 355 and hospitals, is greater in proportion to the extent of the city than is usually seen in Germany, and j>ives it somewhat a magnificent appearance. Tiiere are eight Catholic and eight Lutheran ciuirches. The Domkirche, belonging to the former, is a large and venerable pile, though now much dilapidated ; it has ten bells of remarkably great weight and dimensions,' the largest of them being thirteen tons fifteen hundred weight. There is both a Catholic and Lutheran gymnasium, or public school, for classical instruction; fifteen or sixteen charity schools for the poorer classes, and institutions for instruction in the healing art. The number of inhabitants is 18,200, of whom the Lutherans and the Catholics are nearly equal. As difference of religion makes no distinction under the Prussian government, both sects are indiscriminately placed in corporate and magisterial capacities. There are some manufactories, but none in a flourishing condition. About three hundred looms are employed in weaving woollen cloths, and about two hundred in ribbons, and many persons are occupied in making thread. The other goods made here are leather, shoes, paper, cartouch-boxes, and snuff, and there are several printing-presses. The trade of Erfurt, however, depends principally on the excellent soil of the district that surrounds it. I was surprised at the extent to which I observed the garden cultivation to be carried. Within the fortifications, as well as around the city, the best of vege- tables are raised in prodigious quantities, and furnish the towns whose soil is less favourable to their growth. It is a con- siderable place also for raising the seeds of the rarer plants, and this town is a market, from whence the seedsmen of other parts of Germany obtain their supplies. Annis-seed, canary- seed, coriander-seed, mustard, and poppy-seed, is furnished 356 ERFURT. from hence, and teasles for the cloth-workers. Some madder and woad are cultivated, both of which are prepared within the city for the use of the dyers. Although the land adjoining to the city is too valuable to be cultivated with sainfoin, yet the hills in the vicinity produce it in abundance, and Erfurt is a good market for purchasing the seed of it. I was at Erfurt on a market-day, and had the curiosity to examine the corn of various kinds, and to ascertain the price ; the latter was not very easy on account of the local measure, but at length I ascertained the proportion between the Erfurt and Berlin sheffel. The quality of the wheat was good, but all red ; the rye, barley, and oats, a fair middling sample. The prices I learnt were those at which the different articles were sold in the market in small quantities ; and in English measure and money, is, wheat six shillings and nine-pence ; rye, five shillings and six-pence ; barley, four shillings and eight-pence; oats, two shillings and six-pence; white. pease, eight shillings ; beans, twelve shillings and three-pence, per bushel. The beans are a remarkably fine kind, peculiar to this country, where they have been long cultivated, and being wanted for seed in other districts, the price is comparatively higher than other corn. I very strongly suspect, that these beans are the species which were a few years since brought to England, and whose good qualities were blazoned abroad, under the name of Heligoland beans ; a place where, probably, a bean never was grown. On account of the best land being so much appropriated to the garden culture, I was told that corn was very con- siderably higher in the market of Erfurt, than in that of Miihlhauscn, Nordhausen, and most of the other neighbouring towns. After leaving Erfurt, and the valley in which it is situated, SAXE-GOTHA. 357 the first part of the plain which is reached is a poor soil, on which the usual three-course system is alone adopted, and where rye, but no wheat, was growing. The country soon improved, and when the lofty castle of Gotha appeared in front, which it does on entering the dominions of the Duke of Saxe-Gotha, the soil every mile became better and better, the cultivation improved, green crops to a considerable extent were growing, and both the stubbles, the young wheat, and the rye, exhibited striking proofs of the productive nature of the land. The city of Gotha is a beautiful object. It is built round a hill of considerable elevation, and towers above the surround- ing country, presenting fine prospects in every direction. The suburbs, which are extensive, contain a number of houses in the midst of elegant gardens, and give a cheerful aspect to the environs. The streets within the city, though some of them are steep, are handsome, many of the houses very large, and the whole has the appearance of opulence and comfort. The most prominent object is the schloss or ducal palace, in which the reigning duke resides. It is raised considerably above the city, and overlooks every part of it. By the mea- surement of Baron Zach, it stands 1,240 feet above the level of the sea. It is one of the most extensive piles of building that I recollect to have seen. It is surrounded with beautiful walks and plantations ; and, on the side by which the city is entered from Erfurt, it overlooks a fine lawn, descending to t!ie road, with a circular sweep of plantations around it, that is called the Englisli garden. The interior of the palace scarcely corresponds either in the furniture or the decorations with the exterior appearance. Some old pictures, a few of them good, are to be seen ; but none of such superior merit as to strike those who have 2 Z 358 CiOTHA. recently seen the superb collection of Dresden. The Dukes of this house have, however, assembled some collections, which do them great credit. The library, including the Duke's, of 20,000 volumes, and that belonging to the state, amounts to near 100,000 volumes well arranged; the modern ones judi- ciously selected, and the use of them is generally and liberally permitted to all the inhabitants. The most curious and valuable collection is that of medals and coins. It contains 10,000 ancient coins, 52,000 modern ones, 13,000 impressions in sulphur, and 9»000 drawings of coins. There is, with the collection, 6,000 volumes of numismatic books. A collection of natural history, and of antiquities too, will reward the inspection of the visitor. Near the city is an astronomical observatory, Avherein Baron Zach for a long period conducted his observations ; it is near a small palace, where the ducal orangery, and some pleasant gardens enliven the scenery. The city, including the suburbs, contains 11,100 inhabitants, almost all of whom are of the Lutheran confession. There are seven churches for their use, and a small chapel for the few Catholics. The church of St. Margaret, in which is the ducal vault, is large and handsome, as is that belonging to the orphan-house. The most remarkable of the other public buildings are the old and new town-house, and the landshaft's house, or place of assembly of the states. The institutions for education are sufficiently extensive for the size of the territory, and consist of a gymnasium, or free grammar-school, an institution called tlie Coenobium, where twenty youths are boarded, lodged, and educated on the foundation, and a great number of free schools, for both sexes, of the inferior kind. Tiic charitable institutions, the hospitals, vvorkhouses, and GOTH A. 55f^ alms-houses, are quite as liberal, and as well endowed, as in the other German cities, ail of which give strong evidence, tliat the sick and indigent are as well if not better provided for, when left to rely on the kind sympathy of their superiors, as when, like our poor, they are dependant on the means which those who can are obliged to supply, and, therefore seldom do it cheerfully or judiciously. The manufactures of the inhabitants of this industrious city are very numerous, and some are considerable. In spite of the influx of English goods, the muslin and cotton trades employ four hundred workmen. Woollen-cloths, friezes, and camblets, occupy nearly the same number. Many persons are busied in spinning woollen and linen yarn for other districts. Musical and surgical instruments, tin-ware, cabinet-ware, spinning machinery, gun-powder, shoes, saddlery, china, earthen-ware, and wooden toys, all contribute to create trade and employ the poor. The manufactory of sausages, minute as it seems to us, is a very important one in Germany, and is conducted in Gotha quite on a wholesale scale. Besides the sale of these various productions, the land around the city is highly fertile in corn, which creates considerable commerce. During the existence of the continental system, much sugar was made here, but that manufacture has ceased with the return of peace. I saw some specimens of it that appeared quite equal to any sugar that is brought from the tropical regions, and the maker of it assured me, that the refiners found, they could make more refined sugar from an equal quantity of it, than from the West India produce. Indigo too was made here in considerable quantities from the plant woad, which, by their process, was found equal, for the dyer's purposes, to any that came from Asia or America. ^ Z 2 360 GOTHA. The gentleman, at whose house I saw these specimens, had them very neatly classed and labelled, meaning to keep them as a curiosity, and hand them down well-attested to posterity, who, without such evidence, would never believe that sugar and indigo could be grown in the fifty-first degree of latitude, on a spot elevated twelve hundred feet above the level of the sea. I generally felt, whilst in Germany, too much indifference about accommodations, to have committed to writing any remarks upon the inns where I took up my transient residence ; but, in Gotha, I found the Moor so excellent a house, that I cannot avoid noticing it. The apartments are clean, the provisions good, the servants attentive, and the charges mo- derate. The landlord, who is superior to that class in general, told me, that wlren, after the battle of Leipsic, Buonaparte, with his suite, lodged in his house, they went away without paying him any thing, though they had emptied his cellar and larder of all their contents. The Duchy of Saxe-Gotha-Altenburg contains two divisions, called the principalities of Gotha and of Altenburg ; and these are again divided into smaller districts, called anits, or baili- wicks. The principality of Gotha contains 399»360 acres of land, and 81, .31 7 inhabitants; four cities, besides the capital, having gates and corporate bodies, five market towns, one hundred and sixty-four villages, and sixteen gentlemen's seats or castles. The principality of Altenburg contains 348,160 acres, 103,200 inhabitants, nine cities, three market towns, and five hundred and six villages, single houses or castles*. • Uassell, 1st Part, itli Volume. SAXE-GOTHA. 36 1 The whole of the duchy is either on the mountains of Thu- ringia, or on their declivity. The southern part of it is of an irregular surface, partly lofty hills mixed with rich valleys, all of which are highly productive either of corn or cattle. The highest point of the mountains, within this territory, is the Beerberg, about three thousand feet above the level of tlie sea, and several other peaks exceed two thousand feet, which are mostly covered with wood. These hills are the sources from whence many rivulets are formed, which fertilize the land : those from the eastern part discharge themselves into the Elbe, through the Saale ; and those from the western into the Weser. There are few parts of Germany, where the agriculture is so well conducted, where the natural soil is so good, or where the produce is so great. In the province of Gotha, there are, indeed, too many common fields, common rights of pasture, and small divisions of land, to allow of husbandry being carried on in the most beneficial manner. In the province of Altenburg, there are many unmingled estates that cannot be divided into small portions, but must remain in the possession of the head of the family ; where there are no common pastures, or commons of arable land, where the cultivator is independent of the restrictions which common land creates, and tiiere the best husbandry prevails. There a degree of wealth and prosperity is exhibited, far exceeding any thing that Saxony presents, and only to be equalled on the marshes of the Elbe, in Brunswick, and around Magdeburg. I am assured, that there are plains around the city of Alten- burg, that yield in rye seldom less than twelve grains for every one sown, but frequently fifteen, and in extraordinary years twenty for one ; where the wheat comes up with so much 3(52 SAXE-GOTHA. strength, that it must be mowed, and where the rye is usually six feet in height. These Thuringian^ hills have ever been the granary for the surrounding districts. Fruit is not, how- ever, abimdant; and the apples and pears, especially, are not generally of a very good kind. Flax grows in every part ; hemp in many. Hops luore than sufficient for the consump- tion are produced. Potatoes, the general food of the working classes, are plentiful ; and in some parts, great quantities of carrots are grown, whose juice is expressed and preserved, by boiling, for future use in various ways. Aniseed and cummin- seed are raised, and converted into essential oil, which cir- culates very extensively, and is used to give a cordial-like flavour to the ardent spirits distilled from corn. The cattle are neither abundant nor remarkably good ; but most excellent butter is made on the elevated plains, and is an article of export. Cheese is made in small quantities, nor is it an article of such universal consumption in any part of Germany, as it with us. The sheep are improving, and some of the fine wooUed kind have been recently introduced ; but the far greater part of the flocks are of coarse wool. Pigs are very abundant, and their flesh is converted into a kind of sausage cake, for distant consumption ; large flocks of geese are kept, and their flesh employed for the same purpose as the swine. The livers of these birds are deemed a great luxury, and the sale of them is very considerable. They are made into pasties, or sold in the form of sausage cake, to supply the tables of the richer inhabitants. The woods abound with roe and fallow deer, but there are few wild swine. The quantity of vermin of the mouse tribe, has increased of late, to a degree almost incredible. The local magistrates give rewards for their destruction. In the year SAXE-GOTHA. 3()3 1818, more than 200,000 field mice were brought to them for the jDreaiiums. In the Raths-kammer of the city of Gotha, between the ninth of May and the ninth of September, 1817, the number for wliich the rewards were paid reached to 89,.56o. Tlie regularity with which the accounts are kept in these local treasuries leave no room to doubt of the authenti- city of this fact, which is both novel and extraordinary. Nearly one hundred thousand acres of the land of Saxe- Gotha, is covered with wood. The preparation of this for fuel givese mployment to many of the poorer people ; much of it is used for building ; and in the woods, the frames of houses are made, and the different parts fitted to each other ; so that when removed to the spots where they are to be erected, very little additional labour is required. The government of the country is almost exclusively in the hands of the Duke. The states do indeed exist, and sometimes meet, and without their sanction, new laws cannot be made, or new imposts levied ; but as neither of these operations have been lately needed, the proceedings of the states have created but little interest. They consist of those land-owners, who possess noble or knightly tenures, and of the members nomi- nated by the corporate bodies of the cities. The income of the duchy is divided between the control of the Duke and that of the states ; a portion is under their in- spection, and all beyond is at his disposal, but on this subject much privacy is observed. The debt of the government is not large, but the distinct debt of each of the two principalities is stated to be considerable. The income arises partly from the sovereign's domains and royalties, and partly, but less, from direct and indirect taxes, which are very light. The whole revenues from all those sources are not estimated to exceed. 364 SAXE-GOTHA. if they amount to, one hundred and sixty thousand pounds sterling annually. The army is more numerous than seems necessary, for any purpose but that of parade. It consists of one troop of dis- mounted cavalry of one hundred men, and one regiment of infantry of one thousand eight hundred, being nearly the con- tingent which, in case of need, this duchy is bound to furnish to the general confederation. The militia or landsturm, when mustered in the year 1815, on the return of Buonaparte from Elba, amounted to 28,784 men, of whom 2,600 were armed with rifles, and 10,000 with muskets. The dukedom contains 272 parish churches, and 156 chapels of ease. The benefices of the clergy are generally small, and many of them are compelled to assist in the cultivation of their glebe lands, and carry their produce to the markets. They are under the inspection of fourteen superintendents or bishops. The education of the clergy is very much to be commended ; after a due preparation at the gymnasiums at home, they are sent to Jena. If they have imbibed any of the notions incul- cated in that place, when they sit down quietly on a rural benefice, their influence is too small to have any political effect ; they can only make themselves respectable or comfortable by the regular discharge of their professional duties, and would become very obnoxious to their superiors, if they meddled with the affairs of government. I was informed, that the clerical body were generally of exemplary lives, and as highly esti- mated as could be expected from their rank, which is much too low. Soon after leavin"' Gotha, the road aoain enters the do- minions of the Duke olSaxe Weimar. This part of them, the duchy of Eisenach, dispjajs a rich corn country, similar in EISENACH. 365 appearance, soil and productions to the whole of the terri- tories of Saxe-Gotha. It is indeed, a continuation of that country so well known under the title of the golden moun- tains of Thuringia. On approaching the capital of the duchy, a descent brought me to the banks of the river Neisse, through a country which presented great inequalities of sur- face, many steep declivities, and lofty precipices ; and whose general appearance was highly picturesque. The most remark- able feature of the landscape, is the sugar-loaf hill of Wartburg, which towers above the surrounding country, and forms a conspicuous object from every part of it. The castle on the pinnacle is kept in good repair, and contains a state prison, a collection of antique armour, and other curiosities. In early feudal times, when the places in which princely families took up their abodes, were always the most defensible spots in their territories, this castle was the palace of the ancient Landgrafs of Thuringia, and must have been an impregnable fortress. When Luther on his return from the diet of Worms, was seized by the followers of his great protector, the Duke of Saxony, he was conveyed for security to this hill fort ; and there, in what he called his Patmos, wrote some of those works which increased the zeal of his disciples, and finally produced that great revolution in the opinions of the European world, which has established religious freedom on the ruins of eccle- siastical tyranny. In October, 1817, when the celebration of the secular year in honour of the great reformer, took place in all parts of Lutheran Germany, this spot was chosen as the point to which hundreds of people, and among them many- students from the universities, made a grand procession ; florid harangues were pronounced amidst shouts of applause, and the whole was terminated by committing to the flames many 3 A 366 EISENACH. books, most of them of an ancient date, and several which defended the privileges of the sovereigns and the nobles. The transactions of that day were represented to some of the courts, as having a Jacobinical tendency, and combined with other circumstances caused real or affected alarm among the princes. This event, of which so much has been said in England, as well as on the Continent, was treated not as the momentary ebullition of youthful minds, but as a serious matter, indi- cating revolutionary projects, and has received more attention and investigation than such a frolic, for it appears to have been no more, was entitled to. A singular group of rocks rising between this hill and the city, present themselves, and naturally attract the attention of travellers ; the highest, called the Madehtehi, is surrounded by a park ; the others, more properly a collection of several, are commonly called the monks and nuns. The river Neisse, with a bridge over it, is a great addition to the beauty of the city of Eisenach, on one side of which it flows. I have seen no provincial city in Germany, whose appearance pleased me so much as this. It is remarkably well built, the houses large, lofty, and clean ; it is admira- bly paved, well lighted at night, and the principal square or market-place, in size, in proportion, and in the buildings that surround it, may rival the best parts of any city in Saxony. The Grand Duke has a palace here, and as it is the seat of the provincial government, and of the offices of justice, contains numerous other good buildings, designed for public purposes. There are five churches, two hospitals, an orphan- house, a lunatic asylum, and an institution called the gym- nasium, in which are eleven professors for the higher branches EISENACH. 367 of instruction. The inferior schools are numerous, and liberally supported. Eisenach is, for its extent, one of the most considerable manufacturing cities in Germany. There are mills for spinning cotton twist, but their business is declining. The most flourish- ing, or rather most considerable, for where complaint is so general as I found it here, none can be called flourishing, are the manufactories for weaving stuff's, composed of half woollen, which employ about a hundred and fifty looms. Some woollen cords and carpets are made, and other woollen goods. About thirty looms are occupied in weaving linen, and ten in ribbons. The other trades are, preparing leather, which employ between thirty and forty master workmen, who are both tanners, curriers, and fellmongers. Perscico, a dyeing material, from the cudbear, that grows on the rocks, is here prepared in considerable quantities for the dyers in other parts of Germany; and the place furnishes wool-combs, white lead, and some other commodities. It is a place of considerable trade for colonial productions, in which some of the commercial houses carry on very extensive transactions with the districts farther from navigation than themselves. During the war, when the continental system had raised the prices of all colonial articles, the capitalists of this city contrived to have establishments at Malta, in Greece, at Trieste, at Heligoland, and in Holstein ; and, by means of bribes to the revenue- officers, so managed, as to introduce large quantities of coff'ee, sugar, indigo, and other similar articles. These transactions are supposed to have been highly profitable, and, in spite of the decrees of France, and the fear of her vengeance, the subdued governments of Germany, when once the goods had reached their dominions, took no decisive measures to impede their free circulation. 3 A 2 2gg EISENACH. Eisenach contains 1,490 dwelling-houses, and, according to a census taken in 1818, there were 8,258 inhabitants*. Though not the capital, it is, in many respects, the first city in the Duke of Saxe Weimar's dominions. The great road from Weimar to Frankfort is wholly under the management of the Grand Duke. By some very ancient compact with the intervening princes, he collects the tolls, and keeps it in repair, and executes the duty he has undertaken with admirable liberality, and greatly to the accommodation of travellers. On leaving Eisenach, a lofty mountain presented itself, sufficiently precipitous to fill a traveller with some apprehensions ; but the road, from the base to the summit, by various traverses, was rendered of such gentle ascent, that the post-horses were enabled to surmount it with very little exertion. In the ascent, the lofty woods towered above our heads most majestically ; at about two-thirds towards the summit, when passing round the head of a deep glen, I was induced to rest, and enjoy the extensive prospect behind me, and never felt higher gratification from any vie4 I had contemplated. We had gained a considerable elevation. Through an avenue-like glen, spreading, as it receded from the spot where I viewed it, a fine country expanded below, and, in the centre of the vista, the castle of Wartburg, on the top of its pyramidical hill, reared its lofty summit, crowned with battlements and towers, and seemed, by its isolated position, to have been rather the work of nature than of man. The city of Eisenach was below my feet, and the meandering Neisse, which, from the elevation, presented the appearance of a brook, flowed through the verdant meadows. When we had reached the summit, an extensive plain was *" Hasscl, 1st Part, 5th Volume. MARKTSUHL. 3(J9 Spread, broken by various lofty peaks that rose to considerable heights around in every direction, and the highest points of some few of which were slightly tinged with snow, tliough their elevation could not be more than three thousand feet above the level of the sea. I had sufficient time in the three hours wliich were occupied in surmounting this hill, to examine the soil. The limestone had disappeared near Eisenach, and these hills were all of granite, upon which was a rag stone, or, as the Germans call it floetze, and the surface was in places covered with a good reddish clay, like that in some of the best parts of Devonshire, and resembling it also in the good natural herbage it bears, which I believe is never cropped but by the wild animals that abound in these thick woods. A gradual descent from the summit brought me, in an hour, to the small town of Marktsuhl, with eight hundred inhabitants, situated in one of those narrow and beautiful valleys through which the streams find their way in this Alpine country. In the small towns of Saxe Weimar, the post-masters are generally the largest farmers in the district, and, I believe, in most instances, as here, are the most substantial tenants on the Sovereign's patrimonial domains. My host was very intelligent, and excessively civil when he knew I was an Englishman, but had at first taken me for a Frenchman, and was then rather surly. He seemed to have a high idea of the fertility of the land, and the modes of cultivating it in England. When I assured him that we had very little land in our island so good as that which surrounded him, he was both surprised and puzzled ; for he had known, that after the calamities his country had suffered, sums of money, which to him seemed immense, had been presented to his poor neighbours, by the 370 MARKTSUHL. English Parliament, and could not conceive how it could be procured in England if the soil was no better than their own. The land here is a red clay, exactly like that of the South Hams in Devonshire, and the washings of the field were of a blood colour; the orchards, too, of great extent; and the mud- walled thatched cottages and barns, made the resemblance appear more striking. If the size of the houses had not been larger, I could have fancied I was at North Tawton or Bow, in that county. The three-course rotation is generally followed : beans very frequently form the fallow crop, succeeded by wheat and oats; but as much of the land is inclosed, there is more variety in the rotations than can be permitted in common field land. The Duke has here a hunting-seat, and establishment for his field-sports ; and, what is much better for the country, a stud of stallions, appropriated for the gratuitous improvement of the breed of horses among his subjects. When Buonaparte returned from his Russian campaign, he was like myself, detained here for horses, till some in a distant pasture could be caught, brought home, and fed. He stood, said my host, where you now stand, was sulky, said nothing but a few impatient exclamations at the delay, and took a vast quantity of snuff, till his cloths were completely besmeared with it. I have seen him, said he, three times ; the first in his glory on his way to Russia; the second time, in desptiir when he returned from thence alone ; and the last time, in his fury after the battle of Leipsic, when my house, as well as every other in the town, was burnt by his orders, after all the pro- visions in them that were moveable had been taken away. The rage of the discomfited warrior, was exercised with peculiar severity in the whole dominions of the Duke of Saxe \ MARKTSUHL. 37 1 Weimar, whom he accused of having deserted him ; he, there- fore, directed his vengeance on the harmless peasantry ; and scarcely left a house or barn standing. On my remarking that all the houses were newly built, I was told that few could have been erected without the opportune help of the money that was sent from England. What few houses escaped de- struction, owed their safety to alarms given by the country people, that the Cossacks were coming round the mountains by the sheep tracks, wliich sometimes caused the retreat of the French before the work of demolition was fully completed. After a halt of such length as required some degree of patience, I left Marktsuhl. The road continued in a valley of beautiful meadows, fringed with corn-fields, which extended to the foot of lofty and often abrupt hills, covered with wood. The river Werra, a copious stream, wandered through the valley, with many inflections, and turned several mills ; which as well as the villages around them, were all recently built, for this portion of the district had been universally pillaged, and the houses burnt. At Buttlar, I crossed the Werra by a good bridge ; and found a post-house just without the gates of that town, kept by an intelligent widow, who was tenant on a large farm of the duke's. This town suffered much during both the advance and retreat of the French ; and Buonaparte was within it five times. The hostess told me he remained two days in her house after the battle of Leipsic, to which circumstance she owed the safety of her habitation ; the only one that was not burnt. He and his attendants ate and drank all she had, and paid nothing. They were at length frightened away by reports of approaching Cossacks, who, however, did not appear till three hours after the French had evacuated the town. 372 BUTTLAR. In a conversation with the schoolmaster of the place, I heard a sad tale of the calamities which had been inflicted in his vicinity. He said the French in their retreat, had eaten, carried away, or destroyed all the provisions that were above ground. The Russians, who followed them, dug up the pota- toes, on which the inhabitants depended for their winter subsis- tence; and that, in consequence of the scarcity, within the town- ship, in the following winter, more than five hundred people, out of a population of 1,500, had died of absolute starvation; a tale difficult to believe, though positively asserted. I felt not a little gratified at the praises lavished on the English Regent and Parliament, for the liberality with which the distresses of this country had been alleviated by the money that was dis- tributed, when its condition appeared to be hopeless The people with whom I conversed here, expressed great pleasure, that as Buonaparte was not hanged, as in their opinion he deserved to have been, he was now under an English lock ; because they said, England, who had sent them so many millions, must be too rich to be bribed by any money the Emperor's family could give to let him loose. Their duke was a very good man, they said ; but he was so poor, that it would have been dangerous to have intrusted to his care the keeping of him; for though the castle of VVartburg was a very secure place, yet, perhaps, it might be opened by a golden key. When he went forward towards Russia, they said, he was too proud to speak to any one ; when he came back from thence, he was too much depressed to ask any questions, or to do any thing but promise large fees to the postillions, if they drove him rapidly ; but after the battle of Leipsic, he tried almost every man he met, to know if he spoke French, and if he BUTTLAR. 373 did, asked, with evident alarm, a thousand questions as to the positions of the different villages not very distant from the road ; and especially about the various narrow tracks by which the passages round the mountains might be traversed by horsemen. His apprehensions of the pursuing Cossacks, were represented in a ridiculous light by these people, who seemed to derive great delight from that kind of conversation. 3 B HESSE CASSEL. 3 B Q HESSE CASSEL. 1 HE dominions of the Prince of Hesse Cassel commence soon after leaving Buttlar. The same Alpine country continues with large and populous villages, almost every house of which has been built since the wasting hostilities of 1813. The condition of the very few working cattle, and the dress and countenances of the peasantry, had the appearance of extreme poverty and depression. Nothing looked well except the houses ; and those, though of mud, being whitened and covered with new thatch, had at least a clean appearance. The first place I reached was Huenfeld, a town, or rather a city (as it has gates) of 1,700 inhabitants, who depend prin- cipally on agriculture. There is, however, some linen manu- factured, and a great deal that is made elsewhere brought here to be bleached; for which purpose the water of the river Huen that runs by the place, is considered to be admirably adapted. The post-house, belonging to the Prince of Tour and Taxis, tlie post-master-general of the ancient Germaii empire, has been built since the general devastation, upon a scale of unusual extent ; the barns and cattle-houses were constructed upon a similar plan ; and the host seemed to have more comforts about him than I had seen in any small place since I left Gotha. He assured me, that Buonaparte, who staid at his house to collect his fugitive forces, had caused him to be very liberally 378 HUENFELD. paid, but that his premises were destroyed by a straggling party of the French army, who arrived after their commander had departed. I am rather disposed to think, that, in other instances, where his bills were not paid, it arose from some fraud among his attendants. I was pleased here to find, as I had done on the whole road I had passed, that the pecuniary contributions, which had been transmitted from London to assuage the sufferings of the poor, were very judiciously and honourably apportioned. I asked of many persons if there had been any partiality in the distribu- tion; and except in one instance, had the agreeable assurance, that all were satisfied ; because the largest portions had been assigned where the distress was the greatest. I met, indeed, with one man of a very talkative disposition, who expressed astonishment at the immense quantity of money that must be in England to be able to send so many hundreds of millions (of gute groschen, about two-pence each) to that country. He then with a grave countenance, desired as I was going to England, that I would tell the Parliament of one very bad thing that had been done with their money, and which he thought they ought to know. The corporation of a small town, he assured me, had applied the money which was in- tended to build the peasants' houses, to repairing the church, which by their charter, was their own duty. The sum accord- ing to my informant's evidence, amounted to as many groschen as made near a hundred pounds. I as gravely asked him, if he was sure of the fact, and how he knew it; because I should hardly make the Parliament believe it. He declared, tliat he had seen it in a printed paper, and that it must be true. I think it fair to infer from this insignificant conversation, opposed as it was to general testimony, that if any irregularity HUENFELD. 379 or favouritism was practised, it was to a small extent. It is gratifying to know that bounty is fairly applied, and highly pleasing to be assured that those who have been partakers of that bounty know their, benefactors, and feel grateful for the favour. The commonest people in this country with whom I happened to converse, and I did so promiscuously, never failed to contrast the conduct, and make remarks on the character, of the two nations ; — the French, who came with promises of liberty, and robbed them ; and the English, who relieved their necessities, but made no professions. Proceeding from Huenfeld, I passed over the most uneven country I recollect ever to have viewed ; there was no such thing as a plain of even moderate extent, for the valleys are narrow, each with a limpid brook in the bottom, from which the land rises immediately to the hills. The whole country is romantic beyond description, lofty precipices, towering woods, and basaltic rocks, rise in every direction, about what, but for the deep fissures, might be called a plain ; and, though two thousand feet above the level of the sea, appears as a valley, surrounded by lofty peaks. The soil on the lower part of the fissures is very rich, and the appearance of the wheat and rye was luxuriant. The higher parts are bleak and barren, except where covered with wood. The whole district is most pro- fusely planted with fruit-trees, and the excellent highway is in many places lined with them. The poverty of the country is however manifest from the scarcity of every kind of live stock ; scarcely a horse was to be seen ; few cows, except those that were ploughing ; and but very small flocks of sheep, of a bad long-woolled race. It is really lamentable to see, in passing through so beautiful and fertile a country, so much poverty and depression. Much 380 FULDA. of this doubtless arises from the tremendous, though temporary evils, which war has inflicted on it ; but much must be owing to the relations between the different orders of society, which no government can with justice rapidly change. The city of Fulda is at a distance a strikingly-beautiful ornament to the prospect. The two lofty towers of its cathe- dral, and those of ma^ny other churches, are conspicuous in the approach ; and near the city, on an insulated and precipitous conical hill, the ruins of the palace of the ancient rulers of the country, the Abbots of Fulda, rear their shattered battle- ments and tottering walls, in Gothic majesty. On the entrance to the city, a castle or palace of ancient erection, but recently improved as a residence for the Prince of Orange, is the most impressive object, and around it are some pleasant gardens, and a good promenade under some fine lime-trees. Fulda is situated on a river of the same name, which, after descending from the elevated country, joins the Werra, another stream, originating also in a neighbouring range of mountains ; and, when united, they assume the name of the Weser, which is navigable from Minden to its mouth at Bremen. The city is antique, the houses large and lofty, the streets narrow and gloomy, containing many old Gothic public buildings. The cathedral is an ancient pile, in which is the tomb of St. Boniface, much venerated by the pious German Catholics. Besides the cathedral, there are ten Catholic and one Lutheran churches, a Franciscan monastery, and a nunnery. The walls of the city are in a dilapidated state, but the gates arc all in perfect preservation. It has several institutions for education ; the Lyceum, wliich is built on the foundation of a suppressed university, lias a good library. SALMUNSTER. 381 The inhabitants, by a late census, were found to be 7,468, many of whom are employed in various manufactories *. The master-manufacturers of linen and woollen goods are seventy, the hosiers twelve, the dyers eight, the hatters five, leather- makers twenty-three ; besides these, are makers of musical instruments, snuff, and saltpetre. The commerce of Fulda is very inconsiderable, though it is situated on some of the finest roads of this part of Germany. What little is carried on, consists principally in the sale of colonial produce brought from Bremen, or in the export of potash, which is the most abundant production, to various countries. Tiiis trade, such as it is, is almost wholly conducted by the Jews, the number of whom residing here is considerable. A good road over the bridge, and then by the side of the river, leads to Neuhof, a small town of 450 inhabitants, who seemed to be very poor. An extensive wood, and a con- tinued, but gradual ascent, brought me to the small city of Schluchtern, containing ],425 inhabitants, who appeared to be busily employed in weaving either linen or woollen goods ; every house seemed to have a loom of one kind or the other. There are remains here of a fine Gothic monastery, which drew my attention, and was the only thing I thought worth seeing, whilst a change of horses was preparing, which took but half an hour. From thence, through a woody and moun- tain country, I reached Salmiinster, another weaving town, of 1,325 inhabitants. It has an old Franciscan monastery, the inmates of which are very few. This place, one of the most elevated in this part of the country, is stated to be 2,150 feet above the level of the sea ; the climate is raw and cold. * Schneiders Versuch einer Topographie der Stadt Fulda. 3 C 382 GELNHAUSEN. The winter commences early in October, and continues till the middle of April. The summer, which is excessively hot, seldom lasts more than two or three months ; yet at this elevation, good flax is grown, and some rye. The cutting down, and converting into fuel, the extensive woods is the principal rural occupation. Between Schluchtern and Salmiinster, a short part of the road passes through a portion of the King of Bavaria's dominions ; the whole distance does not exceed half a mile, but at each end a heavy toll was required, though it was the worst part of the road. My way continued through thick woods, in which a very winding road made the ascent over a lofty mountain tole- rably easy ; on the western side of which, in a very elevated situation, and looking over the valley through which the Maine flows towards the Rhine, is the neat town or city of Gelnhausen. It contains 2,618 inhabitants ; some of them are employed in weaving linen, but chiefly depending on agri- culture. It is the first place in this direction, where the vines produce good wine. They are indeed planted considerably lower than the town, on the sides of a stony hill that faces the south and south-west. From Gelnhausen the road is most picturesquely beautiful. It is a gradual descent carried round the side of a mountain, with a steep declivity to a river below it on the left, and the lofty mountain on the right, rising almost perpendicularly to an increasing height as the road proceeded, and clothed with richly-variegated hanging woods, that displayed all the mixt tints of autumnal foliage. Beyond the river, the rich and extensive plain was spread, on which the city of Hanau stands. It was by this defile, that after the battle of Leipsic, Buo- naparte retreated with the collected fragments of his defeated HANAU. 383 hosts. At the termination of the defile, the army of Bavaria, under General Wrede, was drawn up to intercept his retreat. The battle of Hanau was there fought, in which the French, as usual, claimed the honour of the victory. It was, however, not much beyond honour, for it only served to precipitate their flight, till they had secured themselves by passing the Rhine. The plain that intervenes between the termination of the mountains and the city of Hanau, is, I think, one of the finest tracts of arable land I ever passed over. The soil is a rich black mould, and so light, that it is easily and well ploughed with two oxen. Much of the rye, and some of the wheat was up, and looked luxuriant ; the operation of sowing was proceeding in many parts of this plain. It is unfortunately common field-land, and the mode of cultivation must, there- fore, be in conformity to ancient prescription ; but even with this drawback, its produce is large. I was told that the com- mon increase was twelve for one in wheat, and frequently twenty for one in oats ; and if I could judge from the stubbles of the preceding harvest, the reports did not exaggerate. I felt a great gratification in reaching Hanau. I had been for several days on the chilly mountains, where winter had commenced. The inns were miserably bad, and all the accommodations both at them and on the road, very uncomfortable. I had but little opportunity of conversing with any but persons I causally met with, having neglected to provide myself with an introduction to any one at Fulda ; besides this, the patois of the peasants was scarcely intelli- gible to me. At Hanau all was changed ; a fine town, mild summer atmosphere, a good and clean inn, and people who 3C2 384 HANAU. spoke pure high German, caused the fatigues and annoy- ances of the mountains to be speedily forgotten. Hanau is finely situated on the banks of the Maine, where it receives the beautiful river Kinzig, which by various windings descends to join it from a range of mountains beyond Salmiinster. The banks of both these streams, and indeed the whole environs of the city, are covered with gardens filled most profusely with the finest culinary vegetables. The city itself is unlike any place in Germany I have seen, except the new part of Berlin. It is divided into the new and old town. In the former, the streets are well built, well paved, and cross each other at right angles ; it is remarkably clean and neat throughout. Though not the capital of the Hessian dominions, it has many of those appendages usually found in capitals, and the public buildings are by no means inferior to those which commonly surround the residences of the German princes. It contains a palace, various courts of justice of the provin- cial aovernment, different boards for collecting the revenue, for regulating the forests, and other property belonging to the sovereign, as well as the superintendants of ecclesiastical affairs. Hanau contains 1,466 houses, and by a recent enumeration, the inhabitants were found to be 11,997 in number, many of whom were emigrant Netherlanders, and Walloons, who mostly compose the working classes. There are 550 Jews, all of whom reside in a street by themselves, where they have a synagogue. There are four churches, one for the Catholics, one each for Lutherans and Reformed, and one the occupation of which is divided between them. There is no university, but a HANAU. 335 gymnasium, divided into the upper and lower branches. In the former are six, in the latter four professors ; and the whole establishment is well adapted for instruction in the higher species of learning. There is besides, a well-regulated classi- cal school, where the youths are prepared for their reception in the gymnasium. The education of the poorer classes is well attended to, in various charity schools, which are under the management of persons of the different religious persuasions. The manufactories of this city are numerous, and some of them extensive. The largest is that of silk, especially of velvets and velvet ribbons, which give subsistence to more than four hundred families, and produce some very excellent goods. The making of various toys employs about four hundred hands ; they are some of them very curious, and are sold as well in distant countries as in Germany. The tanneries are numerous, and one of them on a very large scale, where I counted more than sixty pits, in which leather for soles of shoes, were in various stages of the pro- cess of preparation. Besides these, there are smaller manu- factories of leathern gloves, hats, linen, cutlery, and musical instruments. The river Kinzig turns several mills, which are employed in grinding snutf, gypsum, and dyeing drugs, in fulling cloth, and making paper. Considerable commerce of the transit kind centres here, owing to the city having the advantage of a navigable canal, which communicates with the Maine at Frankfort ; and from whence by means of the Rhine, it becomes connected with all the countries bordering on that long river. It has, besides, the advantage of two great annual fairs, which attract dealers from considerable distances. 386 HESSE CASSEL. The principality of Hesse was formerly the Landgravate of Hesse Cassel*, whose principal dominions in the middle ages, were in the environs of the rivers Fulda and Werra. The in- habitants are descended from the Catti, described by Tacitus ; but since mixed with other German tribes. The present extent of it according to recent surveys, is 4,413 square English miles, or 2,824,320 acres. The whole of the territory may be described as mountainous. Every where, mountains, hills, and woods are seen, with valleys between of different extents ; and every where the eye is regaled with picturesque prospects. Few of the mountains exceed 1,500 feet in height, though one near Schmalkalde rises to 3,120, and some other peaks attain upwards of 2,500. The only navigable river is the Weser, which is composed of the two rivers Fulda and Werra, which pass through this whole territory. These two rivers receive a vast number of smaller streams, derived from the numerous brooks that trickle down from the sides of the woody mountains, and un together, where they assume the name of the Weser. river Maine does indeed wash one part of its frontier, but th extent of land on its bank belonging to Hesse is so small it scarcely deserves notice. » Agriculture is the principal employment of the inhabitant, but the cultivation is, with the exception of the district round Hanau, far behind any other part of Germany. The land is divided into less portions, the cattle to make manure are fewer, and the proportion of pasture to arable land is less than is to * For those notices in this account, which did not fall under my own inspection, I am indebted to the following works. Erdebcschreibung von Hassel, vol. V., part I ; Dor Kurhessiche Staatskalender Seit, 1815, von Appell ; and to Raise durch den hartzund die hessichen Lander von Wagner. HESSE CASSEL. .'387 be seen in the surrounding districts of Hanover, Brunswick, Saxony, and Prussia. By a late measurement, the arable land was found to be 1,337,420 morgens, fruit-gardens and vine- yards 329,688, meadows and pasture 436,675, woods 984,160, and wastes, with the rivers, and the sites of towns and villatres, 724,560 morgens, which are about three quarters of an English acre. This measurement is not, however, completed, havine yet only been applied to about six-sevenths of the territory. The proportion of wheat to rye is as two to thirteen : oats are more cultivated than barley in the proportion of four to three. The land appropriated annually to the growth of potatoes is about three times as much as to wheat. It is an increasing crop, the extent being greater every year, almost thg^whole of the bauers or farmers subsisting on them. The most valuable production, next to the vegetables for food, and wood from the vast forests, is flax. Some hemp, tobacco, and hops, are grown. The cattle of every description are very thinly scattered. An enumeration was made a few years ago, by which it ap- peared, that there were 39,570 horses and foals, 159,728 horned cattle, 363,937 sheep and lambs, 25,438 goats, and 139,173 swine. The number is supposed to have been dimi- nished since that period. The mines of coal are very numerous, and the veins easily worked, but where wood is so abundant, there is little induce- ment to work them extensively. There are many iron mines, but charcoal is universally used in the manufactory of that metal. There are several saline springs, yielding annually about 500,000 bushels, which provide the principality with culinary salt. The principal manufacture is spinning the flax into yarn for sale in other countries, and making that 388 HESSE CASSEL. coarse kind of brown linen generally used for packing, which has obtained in England and America the name of hessens. The prince is a sovereign whose powers are almost absolute both in making and in executing laws ; the representatives of the states have indeed met since the restoration, but their power is so undefined, that they have had continued contests with the Sovereign, which have not yet been, nor appear likely to be, terminated. They are an aristocratic body, more anxious to preserve their own privileges, than either to secure the prerogatives of the Monarch, or to extend the liberties of those who are not noble. There are so few of the middle classes that have any property, that they have no political weight ; and the cultivators, if not absolutely slaves, are so fettered by the feudal tenures, that they are scarcely in a better condition. The revenue amounts to about 400,000 pounds sterling, nearly one-half of which is derived from the domains and royalties, and from the titlies which, taken from the church at the Reformation, are collected by the government. Before the French seized upon this country, the state had no debt, but on the contrary, a large sum lent upon interest to various individuals and communities. It was restored to the Sovereign, deeply involved in debts, which had been contracted by the government of Jerome Buonaparte. As these debts were principally owing to the subjects of the country, the prince thought himself under the necessity of assuming the responsibility for them, and of making provision for their discharge, and for the due payment of the interest till that could be clTected. It is said that the income exceeds the expenditure more than C"0,000 pounds, by the due application of which, the debt is expected to be extinguished in a few years. HESSE CASSEL. 389 The whole of the regular forces do not now exceed 2,000 men ; but 16,000 militia, who are exercised fourteen days in each year, are regimented, and could, in a short period, be made available for the defence of the country. In the year 1814, 22,500 men were readily mustered, and 82,600 foot, with 2,1 60 horse, under the denomination of the landsturm, were prepared to engage in hostilities, which were rendered unnecessary by the battle of Waterloo. Hesse Cassel is divided into ten provinces, viz.. Lower Hesse Upper Hesse Hersfeld . . Ziegenhain . Fritzlar . . Schmalkalde Fulda . . Isenburg . . Hanau . . Schauenburg Extent in English Acres. Population. Capitals and Inhabitanta. 1,205,520 248,000 Cassel 19,500 359,200 58,319 Marburg . 6,470 101,960 19,010 Hersfeld . . 5,222 142,930 28,600 Ziegenhain . 1,100 87,130 16,102 Fritzlar , 2,267 74,880 22,826 Schmaliialde . 4,697 395,360 68,006 Fulda 7,468 61,120 47,457 Birstein 1,000 273,280 63,000 Hanau . . 11,997 123,940 27,000 Rintelen 2,666 598,320 The inhabitants are 340,000 of the Reformed sect, 150,000 Lutherans, 90,000 Catholics, 8,500 Jews, and the remainder Mennonites, and other smaller sects. Though education is not altogether neglected, it has re- ceived less attention in Hesse Cassel, than in most other parts of Germany. The higher kinds of instruction are better pro- vided for than that of a more common description. There is a university at Marburg, with forty professors, to not more 3 D 390 HESSE CASSEL. than two hundred students ; which, besides the gymnasium at Hanau, and the Lyceums at Fulda and Cassel, provide amply for those destined to the learned professions ; but the parochial schools are very much neglected. There is far less freedom of all kinds in Hesse Cassel, than in any other country of Germany. The press is under more rigid restrictions, the previous censure more severe, and the watchfulness to prevent the introduction of books, that are disapproved of more vigilant than elsewhere in Germany. A law was promulgated in 1818, which cannot be too severely reprobated. It forbids any to receive a learned education, but the sons of nobles, of counsellors, or others of similar rank. The clergy may indeed send their eldest sons to the universities; but all the others are prohibited from studying in them The narrow views of the present sovereign seem to lead him to check all improvement, except in the system of finance, to which he is said to be very attentive. Great agitations have existed, and are still far from being allayed, respecting the property that has been acquired by purchase from the French governors, out of the confiscations they decreed. Much of this, with the rapidity peculiar to revolutionary periods, has passed through several hands. The former proprietors wish to have their estates restored to them ; and naturally expect it, now that the lawful sovereign is re- turned, through attachment to whom they had lost them. Those who have acquired such property, naturally defend their right to it, upon the guarantee of the government de facto. As a question of abstract justice it would perhaps be less difficult to decide, than mixed as it now is, with such various combi- nations. A prescription of a few years, though recent, should scarcely be a bar to a prescription of as nuuiy preceding cen- HESSE CASSEL. 391 turies. The hardsliip on bona Jide purchasers, would doubtless be great, if the whole property were to be returned to the former owners without any compensation. In some of the neighbouring states, these difficulties have been adjusted by a kind of compromise between strict justice and temporary policy, by which the loss has been divided between the new possessors and the ancient owners. In Hesse, however, the question is yet unsettled ; the sovereign is resolute in support- ing the ancient proprietors, but many of the leading nobles and magistrates are decidedly opposed to his measures on this subject. 3 o FRANKFORT. FRANKFORT. 1 HE stage of ten miles from Hanau to Frankfort, is over the luxuriant plain, watered on one side by the Kinzig, and the other by the Maine. It resembles that on the other side of Hanau, and is one of the most productive common fields I saw in Germany ; the young rye had most thickly taken root, potatoes were harvesting from very abundant crops, and the land from which they had been dug, was by a very slight ploughing, prepared for wheat, the sowing of which followed close to the ploughs. The whole soil seemed to be a rich vegetable mould, and the ploughing was performed by two cows. This kind of land interspersed with handsome gentlemen's residences, adorned with plantations and gardens, continued to the bridge, which crosses the Maine at the gate of Frankfort. The city of Frankfort, from its having become the point of union, for the ministers of all the states of Germany to confer on what relates to the general confederation, possesses at present within it, a much larger number of able practical statesmen than can be found in most other places; and they have naturally drawn around them a society, which unites intellectual attainments with habits of political business. I found the days I spent in this city peculiarly interesting, from having brought with me letters of introduction to several gentlemen, who by their politeness and knowledge, imparted 396 FRANKFORT. both pleasure and information ; and those of them who were occupied with diplomatic affairs, did not conduct themselves with that reserve and coolness, which is generally, but perhaps improperly, supposed to be attendant on such offices. In conversation with a very distinguished nobleman, whom I found there, our attention was turned to subjects of rural economy, and he remarked, that though the agriculture of Germany was so much inferior to that of England, it arose neither from the want of skilful theoretical or practical men ; both of whom he thought were more abundant in Germany than in any other part of Europe ; but solely from the deficiency of disposable capital, which is scarcely to be found in any hands. The evils arisino- from the feudal tenures, he treated as of inferior, though acknowledged bad, tendency, but agreed with me, that if such an abolition of them could be effected without great injustice to the possessors in the whole of the country, as is gradually proceeding in Prussia and Saxony, more benefit would be derived from it than from any constitution which in the present condition of the empire, could be communicated to it. The greater quantity of rye than of wheat, that is usually grown, he accounted for from this feudal system. Those tenants (unterthaner), who pay their rents in produce, are in many parts, the most numerous. The proportion of the grain which must be delivered or accounted for to the lord, is much greater in wheat than in rye ; so much so, though from not noting it down immediately, the difference has escaped me, that it is sufilcicnt to induce the sowing of rye on soils as well adapted for wheat, and which would probably bear an equal quantity of the latter grain. The notorious truth, that throughout Germany, Flanders, Holland, France, and England, every kind of agricultural FRANKFORT. 397 produce is sold for less than the cost to the growers, naturall) excited our attention and investigation. It is a very singular state of affairs, and. more distressing, because it enables the malignant party to avail themselves of it to promote discon- tents and disturbances, which must greatly increase the evil. The only way in which it can be accounted for, seemed to be the difference between the consumption of war and that of peace. The long continuance of hostilities, and the great demand created by them had communicated a high stimulus to those who could produce alimentary articles. The full effects of the exertions this occasioned, were not seen in the increased quantity of the productions, till some years had passed in strenuous eff'orts ; and when they had nearly reached their height, a peace arrived, and diminished the consumption. The man who has been engaged in war, when he returns to the con- dition of a husbandman or labourer, is compelled to practise a degree of economy by which his daily consumption is much less than it was when fulfilling the duties of a soldier ; who is in that state of alternation between deficiency and superfluity, which is ill adapted to create habits of economy ; where no care of those who provide for his subsistence can accurately estimate how much will be wanted, and who consequently heap up in stores all tliey can obtain, a great portion of which is often ultiniatel} wasted. The men actually under arms at one period could not be much less than eight millions. If these consumed as much as sixteen millions do ip a tranquil condition, the diff'erence between such consumptions must have a great effect where the jiroduce and demand approach so near to each other as they manifestly do on the whole surface of Europe, which is covered by one hundred and eighty millions of people. When contemplating any great improvement in the agricul- 3 E 398 FRANKFORT. tare of Germany, we naturally looked to the habits of the inhabitants, and the effect which would be produced on them. They are a very economical people ; they subsist principally on rye, potatoes, buck-wheat, and fruits, and eat very little animal food. All agricultural improvement presupposes a great augmentation in the number of cattle of every kind. If those for food be very much increased, it must either reduce the price of them so as to make animal as cheap as vegetable food, or the habits of the people must become altered and changed from their cheap subsistence on vegetable to the comparatively dear one on animal food. It may be doubted if the general increase of wealth will be so rapid or so great as to enable the mass of the people to exchange a cheap for a dear food, with the quickness with which the increase of the latter may be eff*ected. Like most practical men, we agreed, that though our discussions on these and other subjects were highly interesting at the time they were carried on, no great changes could be very speedily effected by any legislators, that would not produce more harm than good ; and tliat tiie less governments interfered, and the more freedom was given to individual exertions, the more certainly each one taking care of himself would benefit the whole conununity. The institutions here for promoting the pleasures of society are numerous and well regulated, and strangers, who are . properly introduced, find easy admission to them. The cassino, somewhat upon the plan of our subscription-houses, but where admission is allowed to any foreigner who is once introduced by a sul)scriber, collects all tlie newspapers of (iermany, and many of the English, French, and Italian journals, as well as the periodical publications of these different FRANKFORT. 399 countries. The suite of apartments is spacious, and hand- • somely furnished; in some of them are card parties; there are four billiard tables, and other rooms where only conversation is carried on. These kind of establishments are indeed to be found in all the large cities, but none of them I think so well conducted as this. I was introduced by a very learned and friendly man, with whom I became acquainted through a letter of introduction, and to whose polite attentions I was much indebted, to the museum, a kind of evening party, which was to me a novelty, A very spacious apartment, through which the company loitered, and conversed at their leisure, was hung round with many pictures and engravings. At intervals, music was played from an orchestra at one end of the room; and, occasionally, readings or recitations of original poetry, or of prose com- positions, were delivered by the authors. If these could not bear severe criticism, they were not forced to endure it, for the remarks of the company on them were very good-natured. Music, poetry, and conversation, thus relieved each other, and prevented either from becoming tiresome. The fine arts are not neglected in Frankfort. There is a good collection, at a house of great extent appropriated to them and to engravings. A merchant of this city bequeathed about 150,000 pounds to found this establishment; his heirs are still at law with the Government about a large share of the bequest, but the power and intention of the testator appears so clear, that the money has been already invested in the purchase of a house and pictures ; to these are added some which the city possessed before. Several pieces of the old Dutch masters, and some landscapes by Italian painters, are exquisite. There is a most admirable piece by Murillo, ot" 3 E 2 400 FRANKFORT. • two beggar-boys, painted in his best manner. Two of the finest paintings by Spagnoletti are shown here, which display wonderful powers in the artist bestowed upon most revolt- ing subjects ; one the Passion of our Saviour, the other a man dying from a stab he had inflicted on himself. In one apartment, by itself, is a fine portrait of Buonaparte, by Girard. He is painted in full imperial costume ; the drapery is very finely executed, the face a very flattering likeness, if it be a likeness at all. I was told that it was a custom to present to ,each of the ambassadors of France a picture of their master; and this was one of thirty copied by the artist for the original of which Buonaparte sat to him. In this building, they have casts from all the Elgin marbles in the British Museum, and the largest collection of engravings, from all masters of every age and country, that I ever saw together. The public library contains 80,000 volumes, among which are some curious specimens of ancient typography, a large collection of the autographs of celebrated characters, and a well-stored cabinet of ancient medals. Few cities of the size present so many magnificent houses as Frankfort. When this was the place for electing and investing the Emperors of Germany, most of the greater princes of the empire had palaces here ; these have since been converted into the dwellings of individuals, or into hotels, and, in the latter case, still retain the name they formerly bore. The most remark- able of these buildings is one formerly belonging to the Prince of Thurm and Taxis, but now appropriated for the assembling of the members of the German confederation ; and that called tiie Romcr, where the ancient emperors held their court, and in which the imperial crown and the golden bull were kept. The inhabitants are about 45,000. Of these near 1(),()0() FRANKFORT. 401 are Jews, who reside in a quarter by themselves, inclosed within gates, which shut them out at night from the other parts of the city. There are seven Lutheran, four Catholic, and two Reformed churches ; but, though all the Christian sects are equally established, the Lutherans are in possession of all the powers of the government. The city, with a district around it, containing two market- towns and five villages, with 6,880 inhabitants, is under a republican form of government. The constitution made in 1816, like most paper constitutions, does not work well, and is already undergoing alterations. By it there were two chambers, one chosen from the descendants of two noble houses, the other by the citizens of certain descriptions, and of certain property. Each of these chambers choose one burgomaster, and the two burgomasters, thus chosen, form the executive power. The transit trade of Frankfort is very great, and the two fairs cause a vast deal of business to centre here of the commission kind, which gives employment to several hundred merchants. The manufactories are very numerous, but generally small, and comprise the preparation of minute luxuries, rather than of the more necessary articles of life. The fortifications of the city are either destroyed or level- ling, and the ditches filling up. On some parts where the walls stood, beautiful houses have been erected ; and the encouragement to building, since the independence of the city has been resolved on, is such, that in every part of the en- virons, new houses are springing up. A beautiful row of buildings facing the river, called the Schone Ansicht, lately erected, may vie with that of any city on the continent, and they are already almost all occupied by some of the diplo- matic residents. 402 FRAKKFOE.T. Anioiii^- the edifices, the religious ones must not be neglected, especially the largest of them,— the Dom-kirch or cathedral, still appropriated to the Catholic worship. It is an enormous mass of building, of a date so ancient, that the time of its erection is unknown, as well as tiie name of the architect. It has been long celebrated as the place in which the emperors of Germany were crowned, and the burial-place of a great number of them. I was at Frankfort on a market-day, and observed there, as I Jiad done in many other parts of Germany, how much it was crowded with the peasants offering their commodities for sale in very small quantities. Some had a few apples, plums, pears, or grapes, the whole value of which could not be more than three-pence or four-pence. I remarked many with not more than half a peck of pease or beans, or a peck of oats. Several women were sitting in the market with small bundles of hay before them of ten pounds weight each, and few with more than five or six of them. The loss of time this must create is very great. The labour tliat is thus applied to the business of vending their commodities would be better be- stowed on the production of them, and the business of selling them be left to middle men. RHENISH PROVINCES. THE RHINE. FROM having been pleased with the mode of water-travel- ling in Holland, I was induced to embark on board what is called the water-diligence for Mentz. I found it cheap, for it cost only eightpenee for my passage in the cabin; and that was about three times as much as the steerage passengers paid. This vessel was in every respect unlike the Dutch treckschuyts, the cabin was filthy, dark and cold, without good seats ; and there was no way from it to the deck, but by passing through a crowd of passengers in the steerage, who were smoking tobacco, gambling, and trafficking, and exhibited a most un- pleasant scene of the vulgar humours of low life. The vessel was about seventy feet in length, drew only two feet water, and was at first set in motion by poles from the bottom of the river ; but when below the city, four horses were attached to it by a tow-rope, on the third of which the pos- tillion sat, and trotted at the rate of about six miles an hour. The gentlemen's houses are rather thickly scattered near the city, and the whole of the land seemed to be cultivated in the garden mode, but as we proceeded farther the common crops and culture made their appearance ; the rye and wheat looked very luxuriant. At about half way between the two cities the diligence halted, to give those passengers who chose it time to dine. As I was stepping on shore, the best dressed of the female passengers, 3 F 406 THE RHINE. who had scarcely spoken in my hearing, asked in my native tongue, if I was not an Englishman. He, who has passed weeks, or even days, without once hearing the sound of his own language, will understand the pleasure derived from it wlien he is unexpectedly greeted in it, and from a female mouth. An acquaintance is soon formed in such circum- stances ; and though ours only lasted five minutes, whilst we walked from the barge to the inn, it was quite long enough to hear her history, and make us both regret our necessary separa- tion. She had married in London to a German tradesman, and bitterly lamented her absence from her native country, and the many comforts it afforded ; and complained that she had no society but the wife and daughter of the clergyman of the village, who were now her companions, and with whom I found she could not converse fluently. I handed them into a vehicle that was in attendance, and sat down to an ordinary, or table d'hute, which was served. The dinner was good, con- sisting of soup, boiled and roast meat, and a dessert of fruit, for which including a bottle of Seltzer water, twenty kreutzers, not quite sevenpence halfpenny, was demanded. The small place where we halted (Hochste), though containing but six hundred inhabitants, having gates, and having formerly had walls, is denominated a city ; and is in the grand duchy of Hesse Darmstadt. As we continued our course down the river Maine, with the territories of Nassau on the right bank, and those of Hesse Darmstadt on the left, we passed many enormous rafts of float- in<>- timber descending from the upper part of that river, and proceeding by the Rhine to the kingdom of the Netherlands. As they merely floated, two men were sufficient to guide them, tiiough they were from four to five hundred feet in length. MENTZ. 407 In approaching the junction of the Rhine with the Maine, the vineyards on the right bank of the river covered a continued acclivity, the soil of which appeared to be thin and sandy ; but the peasants were applying manure to them in a more liberal manner than I had before observed afforded to any other crop in Germany. The Maine is a turbid stream, about 1,200 feet in breadth; the Rhine a translucid river, 500 feet wider, and the effect of the mud of the former river is definitely visible for a con- siderable distance after their union. This junction of these two great rivers, and the venerable city of Mentz rising from the banks of the united stream, forms a fine picture ; and it possesses additional beauty from the contrast of the ancient city, with the more modern villages around it, most of which were burnt during the late war, and have been since rebuilt. The gate of the city of Mentz towards the water, is reached by passing between enormous piles of wood, which are heaped there as a supply of winter fuel for its inhabitants, and as an article of trade to all other towns in its vicinity. The cele- brated bridge over the Rhine of 1,720 feet in length, which communicates with the strong fortress, Cassel, on the opposite bank, rests on posts, supported by fifty-two large pontoons or barges, which rise and fall with the variations in the height of the water. Mentz is the principal city, though not the capital of the dominions of the Grand Duke of Hesse Darnstadt, which ex- tend over 3,617 square miles on both sides the Rhine, and contain 620,630 inhabitants ; of whom 366,000 are Lutherans, 140,000 Catholics, 98,000 Reformed, 15,000 Jews, and about 1,000 Mennonites*. The revenue is about four hundred thou- • Gemalde von Mainz, von P. A. Paiili, 1819. 3 F2 408 MENTZ. sand pounds sterling ; but it was left deeply indebted by the French. The regular army is about 6,000 men, and the landwehr, or militia, includes almost the whole male popula- tion. The strong citadel and other fortresses of this important city, are under the authority of the German confederation, and are garrisoned jointly by the troops of Austria and Prussia. The strength of the defences of this city, is known to all mili- tary men. It has been the cause of tremendous sufferings, at various periods, to the inhabitants, the marks of which are still visible in shattered houses, fallen towers, and numerous ruins of extensive public buildings. The streets are generally narrow, the houses large and gloomy, and there is over the whole, a general appearance of poverty and desolation. The cathedral, one of the oldest and largest religious buildings in Germany, has suff'ered much by the various sieges, as well as by accidental fires, which have destroyed or defaced it no less than five or six times, and it is now partly a heap of ruins; but its lofty tower, the only one left of seven that formerly rose from its roof, is in good preservation, and four hundred feet in height. The church of St. Ignatius, a modern erection, upon the foundation of one formerly be- longing to the Knights Templars, is one of the most elegant buildings, both externally and internally, that I have seen in Germany. The other churches, ten in number, of which one is Lutheran, liave nothing to attract the attention of a stranger. There is a public library belonging to the city, with 90,000 volumes, and a museum of Roman and other antiquities. The remains of the Romans are most profusely exhibited about this city, the ancient Moguiitinciif/i, which was built by Drusus, and long the most important station of that people. In the museum are collected various specimens of their domestic utensils, orna- MENTZ. 409 ments, and coins, which from time to time have been dis- covered in the vicinity. A respectable medical college is esta- blished here, where five professors, and eight doctors dispense instruction to students in the healing- art; and there are some other institutions for education, upon a good footing. The manufactories are upon a small scale. The most con- siderable is the spinning of cotton in a mill, with three hun- dred and twenty spindles, but it is not a profitable concern, nor is a fustian manufactory, which employs twelve looms, in a much better state ; and it is probable they will both be re- linquished. Sugar refining, card -making, leather-dressing, and dyeing, and china-making, give some employment, but are all upon a very limited scale. From its position, Mentz in peaceable times, must be a place of considerable trade, especially as the port is free, and very few restrictions interpose to prevent the circulation of goods from it through the whole of the surrounding districts. It is a depot for fire-wood from the territories on the upper parts of the Maine and the Rhine ; and for the colonial and other goods, that arrive from distant countries by the latter river. Its vicinity produces much wine, which is shipped from hence, the value of it in the last years, has amounted at the place of shipment to about three hundred thousand pounds sterling annually; and the foreign goods dispersed from it are calculated to be of nearly the same value. The civil inhabitants of Mentz at the last census, in 1816", were 25,251, of whom 1,320 were Lutherans, l,()10Jews, and the rest Catholics. At that period, there were nearly 8,000 persons in such distress as to need assistance from their more wealthy neighbours ; but I was happy to learn that their number has much diminished in the last three years. 410 MENTZ. Since entering Germany, I had never once been accosted by a beggar; but in this city I found them, if neither so numerous nor so clamorous as in France, yet some of them were sutliciently importunate. Although in Germany there is no legal provision for the poor, and though begging is uni- versally forbidden, yet the spontaneous charity which is exercised, and the regulations >of society which have long- been established, have prevented the sufferings from want being more severe than in other countries. The diseased poor are in general tolerably provided for by the numerous hospitals that are to be found in every city. Those in the towns who are distressed from the want of employment, are in general placed in the workhouses, where occupation is provided for them, which, with a trifling addition from the funds of the institution, enables them to subsist till they can obtain more profitable labour. There are, however, two modes of administering relief, which are almost universal. In every city, a stranger is visited by a respectable kind of man, who solicits contributions for the relief of the poor, and produces a book where contributors insert their names, and the sums they give. This money is fairly apportioned for the relief of distressed objects, usually under the direction of the clergy, or otlier prominent persons. In almost every town of Germany, there are guilds for the various handicraft trades. Before a man can follow such trades, even as a journeyman, he must not only have served a regular apprenticeship, but must have travelled a certain period in otlier parts of the country to perfect himself in his art. During this journeying, they seek employment from the guilds of the same trade in the different places they visit. If occupation cannot be furnished by those guilds, they afford MENTZ 411 them relief, and they depart for some other place. Youiin men of this description frequently ask assistance, but rather in the manner of a demand than of charity ; it is hardly ever refused by the natives, and they seldom or never accost a foreigner. It is not considered degrading to those who ask. and scarcely a favour from those who bestow. The institution of the guilds, and the difficulty a young man has in marrying before he can convince the magistrates, whose license is necessary previous to the celebration, that he has the means of supporting a family, bad as they are, in most respects, have at least a tendency to prevent mendicity. In Mentz, whilst it was a part of France, the old habits and institutions of the Germanic kind were destroyed, no new ones were formed, or none of sufficient efficacy ; and in spite of the attempted re-establishment of the ancient customs, the houses are crowded with paupers, and the streets somewhat infested with beggars. As I wished to view with some attention the part of Ger- many which had been for seventeen years under the regimen of France, I did not travel post, but with hired horses, which were to proceed at my own pace, and to be returned, when I reached the frontiers. After passing through the fortifications of Mentz, and gaining the open country, I found a gradual ascent of some hours. Large villages were in sight, and tolerably close to each other ; but the country wanted those indispensable requisites to rural beauty, woods and streams. The whole of the district rests on a bed of limestone, and the soil, though mostly a sandy loam, varies very much both in depth and qualities. On the sides of the surrounding hills, many small vineyards appeared. 412 ALZEI. but the greater part of the land was sowed with rye or wheat, which was just shooting up. The wlieat was much more extensive than the rye. Some portions of rape were growing, which I learnt was generally suffered to ripen into seed, and furnished oil for home consumption as well as for exportation. Some parts of the land had surface-stones, and, on those, patches of sainfoin were growing, some of which looked clean, whilst many others were covered with weeds and grasses, which sufficiently showed the difference of management in the individuals to whom they belonged. The common rotation of crops here, is first, pease or flax, then rye or wheat, and lastly, oats, when they fallow again. Wine is so cheap that little barley is cultivated, and only after tiiat small portion of rape which is fed in a green state. I rested at the small town of Worrstadt, where there is an ancient castle now unoccupied, and which is watered by a beautiful little stream, (the Seltz,) that runs to the Rhine. It is a place of 1,200 inhabitants, depending on the trade of corn and wine from the surrounding district. My guide had a bottle of red wine here, containing nearly a pint and a half, for which I paid about three half-pence. With scarcely any perceptible difference in the appearance of the country, I reached the small city of Alzei, the capital of a canton. Its walls are dilapidated, but its gates are still remaining. It is a most miserable-looking place, and poverty seems stamped on every object that is to be seen in it. It has three churches, and 3,200 inhabitants. Under the ancient Germanic constitution, this was the head of a small princi- pality, called a burgravate, and the residence of the Sovereign. Like most other large houses on this side the Rhine, the castle or palace, stands in ruins near the city. ALZEI. 413 Alzei is the last town in the dominions of the Duke of Hesse- Darmstcadt, in this direction. In passing- through them, I remarked, that the barns were not filled, and that I did not see a single stack of hay or corn in the whole district. Few cattle were grazing, and not a horse that I saw at plough was fit to be employed in that work. The houses of the peasantry were filthy, and their clothing and furniture miserable. During the seventeen years that this country was a part of France, all tithes, lords'-rents, and services, and the rights of rittergut siwAjagd were abolished ; the tenants, or copyholders, were thus converted into proprietors or freeholders. The possessions, in general, are very small, from thirty to eighty acres. The new masters, however, laid on them speedily the French tax, denominated fondcre, which, by the mode of valuation that was adopted, amounted to more than all the harassing petty dues tiiat were formerly demanded by their lords. This has continued since the government has been transferred to the ancient dynasty, which, having found the communes in debt, was compelled to levy additional taxes, of which the poor peasants complain very bitterly. They lament too the limits which the new order of things has placed to the vent of their commodities, especially fruit and wine ; for the consumption of these, they had before not only the markets of Germany, but the whole of France ; whereas now, they are excluded from the latter country, and much cramped in the former, by the commercial jealousy of the neighbouring princes, who interrupt the intercourse by their custom-houses and fiscal regulations. The low prices which are obtained for their productions tend, not a little, to increase their dis- content. Under these circumstances of distress, it is not surprising that they should lament tiie change of masters, and 3 G 414 ALZEI. wish again to be united to France, a wish that I am persuaded prevails very generally, if not universally. Since the abolition of tithes, the pastors have been paid one thousand francs a year, and have, besides a house, glebe land and surplice fees. The predominant religion of the district is Catholic, but the two Protestant sects have an establishment with it. It did not appear to me, that the French, during their rule, had abolished all sense of religion from the minds of the Germans. I saw in several houses, in the hands of the young people, books of devotion, consisting principally of very excellent Catholic forms of prayer, in the vernacular tongue. In one, on a Sunday, the children were reading a translation (not Luther's) of the four Gospels, bound in a small volume, without the Epistles, or the book of Revelations. These latter, the Catholic clergy deem to be too difficult, and the construction of the sentences too much involved to be read with advantage, or even to be understood, by young persons. From various accounts of the productiveness of the soil, a subject to which I directed my inquiries in conversing with different cultivators, I was induced to conclude, that the average increase does not amount to more than six grains for one in wheat and rye, and seven for one in oats. The soil is naturally excellent, but is gradually exhausting, from the constant growth of corn, and the scarcity of animals to make manure. There are no sheep, and the few cows that are to be found in the district are fed in the winter with straw; with such treatment, the best land cannot be long productive ; and all with whom I conversed, who were somewhat advanced in life, informed me, that the crops were much lighter than before the troublesome times which, for the last twenty-five years, had visited them. SOMBACH. 415 As we entered the territory of the King of Bavaria, the dismal-looking mountain, the Donnersberg, or, as the French, when they made it the name of this department, called it Mont Tonnere, reared its black crest before us, above all the surrounding hills. The top of this mountain is 2,150 feet above the level of the Rhine. It was covered with light clouds that sometimes discovered, and sometimes concealed, by their variations, the snow that lay thinly spread on its summit. This picturesque object, gradually rising in sublimity during several hours in which we were approaching it, is clearly seen to be granite, many of the naked pinnacles projecting through the thin soil that generally covered it. The lower parts of this mountain are covered with pines, the space above nearly to the top, is sprinkled with some deciduous trees, but they were too distant for me to ascertain of what kind. As we proceeded into the Bavarian territory, the soil gradually changed to a most excellent clayey loam, of a deep red colour, resembling the best of the land near Exeter. At the village of Sombach, where I found an intelligent farmer, I was informed by him, that he harvested frequently seventeen bushels for one of oats sown, and fourteen for one of rye and wheat. The same person, whose house, barns, and conversation, proved him to be rather above the level of his neighbours, assured me, that most of tiie cultivators in the place, though they paid no rent, could with difliculty raise sufficient surplus produce to pay their taxes. They had few or no horses, and no money to purchase them; and my informant told me, that he sometimes let his horses to his neighbours, the hire being paid in produce, after the following harvest. His land required four horses in a team to plough it ; 3 G 2 416 KAISERSLAUTERN. those who used but two for that work, he assured me, did not, on an average, harvest half the quantity of corn on the same portion of land. He hired labourers, his own family not being sufficiently numerous to perform all the work. He provided them with food and lodging, and paid them about two-pence half-penny a day wages. I saw the men assembled at their evening meal, (at about five o'clock,) which consisted wholly of potatoes, flour, and rye-bread, made into a kind of soup ; and was assured, that none of the small farmers of their own land, lived so well, or had any thing but potatoes to eat, as what little corn they grew must be sold to pay taxes, and other necessary expenses ; and that, unless they were very parsi- monious, their stock of potatoes would fail before the next crop would be fit for use. This soil is admirably calculated for fruit-trees, and they are most abundantly planted, though very few of late years. Walnuts, chesnuts, and filberts, are very plentiful, and when the market of France was open, the sale of them and of other fruits was very advantageous. The first town in the Bavarian dominions is that of Kircheim, containing 1,990 inhabitants, all apparently very poor, and the only building that seemed to have been inhabited by a gentleman's family stood in ruins near it. From thence I reached Kaiserslautern, on the river Lauter ; it is the capital of the district, and seemed to have a slight appearance of animation about it. There is a cotton manufactory, and several frames for weaving stockings; but, especially, coarse worsted stockinett, which seems to form the clothing of almost all the female peasantry. In this place is a gymnasium, and a school for the education of schoolmasters for the adjacent villages. In the neighbourhood are some iron mines, the LANDSTUHL. 417 produce of which is made into various articles, at some small manufactories in and around this city. It contains 2,4()() inhabitants, with three churches, one for each of the religious sects. Near this place a battle was fought, between the Prussians and French in 1793, and another on nearly the same spot in the succeeding year. Kaiserslautern has a lake on each side of it ; but one of them, when I passed, more properly deserved the name of a morass, though in winter when the torrents descend from the lofty mountains that are near it, it is covered with water to a great depth. On these banks are some fine meadows, but the inhabitants possess very few cattle to feed upon them. From thence I spent a whole day in travelling, at the foot of the Donnersberg, by the road on the western side, which runs parallel to it, and upon which it looks down most terri- fically, filling the passenger with a degree of awe by its abrupt and sometimes perpendicular precipices. The town of Landstuhl is at the foot of this mountain, apparently a poor place, with 750 inhabitants, and like the other towns with a castle or gentleman's seat in ruins. In the woods near it, at the foot of the Donnersberg, there is a considerable quantity of potash made, and much rosin extracted from the pines. On a hill of very great height, the ruins of a most extensive ancient castle look down upon Landstuhl. It must have been an impregnable and capacious fortress, when in its flourishing state. It was the original seat (Stammxchlos.s') of the family of Sickingen, a noble race now gone to decay, who were the petty sovereigns of the surrounding district. Beyond Landstuhl the valley widened ; and while on one side the mountain towered, an extended plain of bog was displayed on the other, which probably becomes a lake after 418 HOMBURG. much rain, or when the snow on the mountains is melted in the spring. I observed many persons employed in dioging turf, which rather surprised me in a country where wood is so abundant, and where coals, though not much used, are plentiful. As we approached the town of Homburg, the mountains receded considerably from the road, and left a space of many hundred acres of meadow land, parts of which were being drained with small open drains very near to each other, and which will, doubtless, improve the herbage, at present of a very coarse and mossy nature. Homburg is a miserable looking town of 1,800 inhabitants, watered by the small river Blies. It has a small manufactory of muslins, and some woollen cloth of a very coarse kind is made there. A lofty hill at the back of the town has been formed into terraces, rising one above another quite to the top, and these have been planted with fruit trees of various kinds ; the whole vicinity is well covered with vineyards, which this year have yielded abundance of wine. The growers assured me, it could not be sold for more than two-thirds of the cost of raising the vines and making the wine. Homburg has several good houses in and about it, in a dilapidated state ; and upon two hills near it, are two extensive piles of the ruins of ancient castles, or princely residences ; one called Carlsberg, the other Martinshohe, and many other antiquitjes. From Homburg to Rohrbach the country exhibits nearly the same appearance, except that the mountains approached nearer to each other, and in some places were so close, as scarcely to leave any space between the road and the foot of the precipices. The country round Rohrbach abounds with iron ore, and coals ; the foundries are numerous, but small ; and though coal is plentiful and good, the use of coke ROHRBACH. 41 9 has not been introduced in the iron manufactories ; but charcoal is alone used. At Rohrbach the territories of Bavaria terminate, and a small strip of country belonging to Prussia intercepts tlie direct communication with France. From Kaiserslautern to the boundary the land is very indifferent, and produces little or no corn. The rye was come up, but very thinly ; there was little or no wheat to be seen ; the sainfoins were very foul, and much mixed with bad grasses, and what few patches of clover were to be seen in the oat stubbles, had been very thinly and irregularly planted. The soil is generally a light red sandy loam, mixed with many surface stones, much better calculated for vines and fruit-trees than for corn. This portion of the kingdom of Bavaria, the greater part of which is beyond the Rhine, belonged to the King beforehe attained the royal dignity, or even the Electorate of Bavaria, and was known as the Hertzogthum Von Zweibrucken, or by the French name of Deux-ponts. It was united to the French republic in an early stage of the revolution, and followed its changes till the peace of Paris, and the treaty of Vienna restored it to its former sovereign. The description given of this department by the French statistical writers in 1802, forms a striking contrast to its present condition. * "This department (Mont Tonnere) though very mountainous, is highly fertile. It produces in abundance all kinds of grain, not more than half of which is consumed at home ; and large quantities of vegetables, fruit, and especially nuts, and chesnuts. Hemp and flax are in abundance, and very * See " Statistique generate et particulifere de la France, et de ses colonies par unp Societe des gens de lettres et de savans. Tome 5. p. 17. 420 SAARBRUCKE. excellent. There are rich pastures, covered with horned cattle and with sheep, whose flesh is very celebrated, but whose wool is of an inferior quality." A German writer says, " The breed of horses, which before the province was united to France was excellent and numerous, and supplied the neigh- bouring districts, has been so deteriorated and lessened, that scarcely one horse is to be found fit for the cavalry service *." Wlien I reached Saarbriicke, I had passed over the whole of the district which had been joined to France, and deno- minated the department of Mont Tonnere, but which for the last four years has been again returned to its ancient masters. The whole distance from Mentz, is between ninety and one hundred miles. In that space, I saw nothing that looked like the mansion of a gentleman that was not in ruins and without inhabitants. The villages are numerous and large, the barns adjoining to each house in them, small, and with scarcely any stables or sheds for cattle. The cows are very few, and yield all the butter that the district consumes ; though less than it wants. Flax is grown, spun, and wove by every family, but none is sent to other parts of the country. I did not see fifty sheep in all my journey, though much of the land is fit for them, and for nothing else ; and wherever I inquired, I was told there were no flocks. The furniture of the peasants' houses was uniformly wretched, and their dress far, very far, worse than I had seen in any part of Germany beyond the Rhine. I had not seen this country before it fell under the dominion of France, and therefore can only judge of its condition from the reports, perhaps partial ones, of either writers or natives ; • Beschreibung von Rheinbairen in Zweibriicken gedrucktet, 1818. SAARBRiJCK. 421 but of this I am confident, that such good natural soil could never have been in a much worse state, nor much less productive than it is at present. I except from this observation the fruit trees, most of which however, especially the walnuts, must have been planted long before the French possessed it. The old feudal tenures kept up a connexion betwixt the lord and his tenants ; the dues paid to him were small, and rather troublesome and vexatious than onerous, but the in- fluence and example of a resident gentry, must have been of great advantage ; and the military service was rather a nominal than a real evil, and a very trifling one, when compared with the conscription that France enforced. The military claims of their ancient lords, founded on the tenures by which the pea- sants held the lands, were never very rigidly enforced; but under the French system, their conscription was strictly and equally extended over the whole population, between certain defined ages. Under the governments that have succeeded to that of France, the demand for personal service is various. Under Prussia it is universal, but the period is limited ; and to those in such circumstances as to afford the purchase of their equip- ments, one year suffices. Under the government of Hesse Darmstadt, the conscription is not universal ; but it is far from being impartial. The finest and best made young men are selected and compelled to serve. Under the government of Bavaria it is equal, but not extensive ; and the administration is very mild in its demands of personal service. With the introduction of the French system into the country, the nobility and gentry, deprived of that from which they derived the greater part of their incomes, naturally withdrew, and the spirit of improvement declined. With the removal of the gentry, the capital also fled, and in times of abundance 3 H 422 SAARBRUCK. there were none to purchase the surplus, and keep it till a scarcity occurred. The peasantry, now become proprietors, could find neither money nor credit to improve their lands ; and thus its husbandry, if it has not retrograded, has remained stationary. When the French system of taxation, including the heavy . fonciere, was imposed in the place of the feudal dues and the tithes, a value was put on every portion of land, and a per centage demanded upon that valuation. I believe this contri- bution was at first beyond, and certainly it was recently very far beyond, the whole amount of what was paid, or would have been paid, as a composition for the rent, feudal services, and tithes, which were thus nominally abolished, but really in- flicted under another name, and to a more burdensome extent. Under the French system, the clergy were at first either re- moved, or became dependant on the peasantry; afterwards they were allowed one thousand francs a year, and though their fees rose, they have gradually been replaced, as they have died, by men of a lower caste. Thus the imposts were not lessened, nor the requisitions for their services diminished, but the people were tricked by the words liberty and equality, out of a greater portion of their hap- piness and comforts than their ancient paternal governments had ever required them to sacrifice ; and they were deprived of the benefits which are derived in every country from the examples of a resident gentry, and a body of respectable clergy. In no part of Germany did the pictures of wretchedness present themselves to my observation, either so frequently or so strikingly, as between the Rhine and the present frontiers of France; and the reflections I have recorded, are the natural expression of the feelings which were excited in my mind,' SAARBRUCK. 423 from step to step through the country. Those reflections were strengthened by the inquiries I made at each town for the book- sellers' shops. In every other place, to the eastward of the Rhine, I uniformly found a shop or shops, with a greater or less quantity of books for sale. Except at Mentz, where there are very few, I did not find a single bookseller of any kind in any of the towns. At Saarbriick, indeed, one was pointed out to me, which I visited, but except almanacks, the whole stock in the shop was of less value than I carried in a small portmanteau. The same may have been formerly the case, but that I could not ascertain ; and I should rather judge, that when the gentry were driven from the country, the taste for reading, and the desire to acquire knowledge, speedily followed them. The city of Saarbriick is on one bank of the river Saar, and the suburb of St. John's on the other ; together, they contain a population of 0,380 persons. The river being navigable, creates some commerce, which principally consists in shipping wood, iron, and steel, and some small quantities of glass, earthen-ware, and coals. These are sent by the river through the Moselle and the Rhine to Coblentz. The houses of this city are large, some of them even elegant and splendid, such as are usually seen in the capitals of small principalities, which this formerly was. Now, the best of them are hastening to decay, and are inhabited by mechanics or paupers ; and not a modern house is to be seen, except one or two without the gates, built in 1806, and a very few small ones erected since the cession to Prussia. The palace or castle, a fine build- ing, now occupied by the governor, and others near it, in a dilapidated condition, shew that the place was formerly inhabited by a more elegant and refined population than at present fills it. 3H2 424 SAARBRUCK. The Prussian government is certainly most unpopular in all the newly-acquired provinces ; and principally, as appeared to me, from the faults of its predecessors, or from circumstances over which it has no control. The complaints I heard here were as vehement as in any place I had visited. The low prices at which the productions of the soil are sold, prevents the occupiers of it, from making any purchases ; the sales are insufficient to provide money for the payment of the taxes, which are the same as under the French dominion. The people say, that a few years ago, all the money went to Paris, that now all goes to Berlin ; that then, France purchased their fruits and surplus corn, but that Prussia takes nothing but the taxes. I was at Saarbriick on a market-day, and having leisure, went through it to make my remarks. The quantities of each seller were very small, and could not amount, in many instances, to more than the value of a day's labour. The price of wheat was eight shillings and sixpence for one hundred and forty -' ^ pounds; it was red wheat, such as would weigh about fifty-six pounds the bushel. Rye was offered at seven shillings for one hundred and thirty-six pounds ; oats, one hundred and twenty pounds, for three shillings and sixpence ; pease, one hundred and fifty pounds at seven shillings ; and potatoes, two hundred pounds for sixteen-pence. Hay is grown but to a small extent, and the price of it was out of all proportion to the other articles, it was three shillings and sixpence for one hundred pounds. I have reduced the weights and prices to our own ; because, in some instances, the prices were mentioned in francs, and in others in florins and kreutzers ; and the weights were of dif- ferent denominations, as the sellers came from the east or west side of the city. The selling corn by weight, and not b} SAARBRiJCK. 425 measure, is a great improvement, for which the people are indebted to the French, and is worthy of adoption in every other comitry*. I was assured, that though no rent was paid by the bauers, the taxes, seed, labour and necessary disbursements, amounted to full one-third more than the produce had been sold for in the three last years ; and that those who grow provisions, are almost starved just before the annual harvest has ripened. I discovered in almost every person I conversed with, from the Rhine to Saarbriick, much anxiety about the wine which had just been made, the quantity of which was unusually large. They all eagerly asked, if I thought there would be much demand for it in England ; and seemed surprised when I assured them that it was not used by us, except at the tables of the few of the richer classes, who spared no expense to have the superior kinds, known as Hochheimer, Johanisberg, or the produce of other rare vineyards. The river Saar, which begins to be navigable here, is a rapid stream, descending from the picturesque mountains, which are a continuation of the chain of the Vosges, and run parallel to the Rhine, about half the distance from this city to that river. The barges which descend the Saar, are built in this place, and are from thirty-five to forty tons burden. • Having learnt, but not by personal inquiry, the prices of flour and grain in the market ot Mentz, I insert them here. The price of corn was given to me in the measure called malter, of which there are two kinds used in Hesse Darmstadt; one is 4,591 Paris cubic inches, the other is 5,050 of those inches. My calculation is founded on the first of those dimen- sions. Wheat, four shillings and ten-pence per bushel; rye, four shillings and three-pence; barley, three shillings and sixpence ; and oats, two shillings and six-pence. Wheaten flour, ten shillings for one hundred pounds ; rye flour, six and nine-pence for one hundred pounds. The flour is not dressed so fine as by ourmealmen, which accounts for its price appearino- low, when compared with that of the corn from which it is made. 426 SAARBRtfCK. I cannot take leave of Germany, without recounting a tew of those observations, which had occurred to me on the cha- racter of the inhabitants, in passing through the country. It is a subject on which it is difficult to generalize ; the dispositions and habits of most people are so various, as to create this difficulty, and all general observations must be understood to admit of very numerous exceptions and irregularities. I should rather characterize the Germans" as frank, honest, and sincere, than polite ; and as more to be trusted than beloved, as more ready to do kind offices than to use kind expres- sions to strangers. I cannot, however, allow, that their man- ners and conduct are rude or clownish, and, of all people, they are the farthest from being impertinent. I had opportunities of mixing with all classes, from the nobility to the peasants ; with the former, an introduction was necessary, and, with the latter, an apology ; but, with all, I found a readiness in giving information, a patience in explaining what was not clear in their first answers to my inquiries, and less assumption of superior knowledge than is to be found in most other countries. I have heard from many of my countrymen complaints of the want of hospitality among the Germans. I cannot but attribute this to an opinion rather prevalent among them, that we are rendered so fastidious from being accustomed to luxuries of the table, that their frugal fare would, if not despised, be scarcely acceptable to us. From my own observation, I should judge this to be the principal, if not the sole, cause of the very few invitations that travellers, even when well introduced, have received. I found it otherwise ; and when my indifference to the kind of provisions that was set before me was known, 1 experienced frequent and sincere invitations to be a partaker SAARBRUCK. 427 of their family meals. The inn-keepers have none of the abundant civility which is found in England, and scarcely seem to act the part of persons who expect to gain any advantage from the guests in their houses. They welcome those who arrive rather as if conferring than receiving a favour; and their whole demeanour is rather lofty, and dis- covers no disposition to deviate from their accustomed routine. This difference probably arises from their being of a nmk relatively superior to that of men of the same profession in England. They are the associates of their guests, who are seldom their superiors, and frequently their inferiors ; and they expect to be treated by those in their houses as the heads of families at their own table. With inn-keepers, with the different tradesmen of whom 1 made purchases, and with the volets de place whom I engaged at the different cities, I had no reason to complain of any petty cheating tricks, or, in any transactions, to suspect the honesty of the persons with whom 1 dealt. I should, however, have been better pleased with a little more civility from them, and a less rigid adherence to their own plans. The Germans are as much superior in cleanliness to the French, as they are inferior in it to the Dutch and the English. I felt the want of it on entering Germany from Holland, and regretted the loss of it on leaving Germany for France. I remarked, notwithstanding, every where, that the table and bed-linen, though sometimes coarse, was always scrupulously clean, and I thought the dress and persons of all classes were equal in cleanliness to those of any other part of Europe. It appeared to me that the manner of smoking tobacco was more cleanly in Germany than it is in England : the habit of spitting during the use of that herb is not so common ; and I 428 SAARBRUCK. never remarked any, even of the lowest classes, chewing it. Smoking is now much less practised than formerly : I never was in a party where it was allowed, if any ladies were present, and I seldom saw it in private houses of the more respectable class in the cities, except in the study, or separate apartment of the gentlemen. In coffee-houses and taverns, it is, how- ever, carried to an extent somewhat annoying, and I observed it was practised in the public carriages that I met on the road. Temperance and sobriety are the general characteristics of this nation. Their tables are usually served with great economy, and gourmands are not very common, nor do the pleasures of the meal, or the detail of its cookery, furnish so much matter for conversation as among the French, or I think as even with the English. I never observed any intoxication among the lower classes ; and, with the higher orders, I saw not the most distant approach towards inebriety. The people seldom appeared to me to express any strong emotions, or to experience those violent and agitating feelings which are so significantly evinced by the accents and gesticu- lations of the inhabitants of the more southern countries of Europe. All within them seems quiet, calm, and tranquil, and their enthusiasm is more felt than displayed; their man- ners almost discover that subdued mildness and softness which is to be seen among many of our English quakers ; and their conversation with each other abounds with those expressions of endearment which are soothing to those to whom they are ad- dressed, and have a tendency to create kind feelings in those who utter them. FRANCE. 3 1 FRANCE. r* RANGE is entered, from Germany, a few miles beyond tlie river Saare, and a toll-gate and custom-house mark the division of the two countries. My passport and baggage were slightly examined, and I reached the small town of Forbach, a most miserable place, where the auberge was cold and filthy ; one part of it was a shop, furnished with a few goods, the state and quantities of which bespoke great poverty. I was so fortunate here, as to meet with an intelligent man, who wished for a conveyance to Metz, and who gladly accepted my offer of a seat in the vehicle I had engaged for myself. He was a man nearly fifty years of age ; in his youth had been a soldier, and served under Buonaparte in Italy ; but having received a wound which disabled him from marching, had been discharged with a pension of about six a pounds a year. He had established himself as a tanner at Sarguimines, a small town on the Saare ; and in the course of years, had risen in fortune above the mediocrity of his neighbourhood. I found him a shrewd man in his affairs, and very anxious to know if he could get his Buenos Ayres hides direct from England, and save the profits of the importer at Rouen, and of the dealer at Metz. His object in the present journey was to pur- chase these hides. He was much pleased that the town in which he resided, had fallen to France in the late division, as the market for his goods now extended over all that kingdom ; 3 I 2 432 FRANCE. whereas the Prussian territories were so circumscribed by other powers, that had it fallen to that nation, his manufac- tory would have been ruined. As to any feelings of patriotism or liberty, with him, like most of the people of his country, they were out of the question, and seemed not to enter into any of his causes of liking or aversion. This man had suffered in his peaceful occupation, by the different military who had been quartered on him. He said, the troops of Buonaparte behaved worse in their own country, than the Cossacks had done ; that if the latter had sufficient to eat and drink, and that they must have, they practised no plunder and committed no acts of cruelty ; but that he had found the insolence and cruelty of the French intolerable, and very diff*erent from what their conduct had been when he was a soldier. My companion, though speaking freely on all other subjects, was very reserved on every thing relating to the Bourbons. He expressed, by looks, more regard to his old commander than he chose to utter ; seemed proud to have partaken of his triumphs in Italy, and rather lamented than blamed the licentiousness which he permitted in his troops, and his attempts on Spain and Russia. He contended that the battle of Wa- terloo was gained by a great superiority of numerical force, and lost owing to the great fatigues which the Frencli had endured, and the want of food on the previous days. I had no inclination to dispute this with him, because I wished rather to ascertain the feelings of my companion, and of his coun- trymen, than to correct his information. He asked me, with much earnestness, if I was sure tliat Buonaparte was still at St. Helena, because he said most of his old soldiers believed he was now in North America. FRANCE. 433 I have given the abstract of a conversation which occurred at intervals during a journey of fifty miles, because I after- wards found the same kind of feeling as this man discovered, generally prevail among the persons I conversed with. The royal family seemed to interest scarcely any one I conversed with in France. My companion was a farmer as well as a tanner, and was acquainted with the nature of the estates, and the modes of cultivating them. Around Forbach the land is light, but encumbered with many surface stones. It is generally in large open common fields where ancient customs are invariably followed. The rotation is flax, wheat, oats, and rye, by which the land, naturally fertile, is gradually deteriorated. The price of wheat was much below its cost to the grower, viz., nine francs for one hundred and forty pounds. Not far from Forbach we passed some iron-works, in whicii both pig and bar iron is made from ore found near them. There is abundance of wood to furnish charcoal, which is alone used, though coals are near at hand. The cottages of the labourers had a miserable appearance, but there was one decent house belonging to the proprietor. We then reached the town of St. Avoid, a place of 2,500 inhabitants, with the appearance of antiquity and poverty in every part of it. It was a market-day. The complaints here were the same as I had so frequently before heard, that the farmers got so little for their produce that they were scarcely able to pay the taxes, had no money to expend with the shopkeepers, and that both classes were excessively distressed. Wheat was selling at eight francs, or seven shillings for one hundred and thirty pounds, or about three shillings and four-pence the Winchester bushel ; oats, five francs for one hundred and thirty pounds, or little 434 FRANCE. more than one shilling and six-pence the bushel, and potatoes proportionably low. From St. Avoid, the land was poor and stony, till, on descending into a narrow but beautiful valley, we reached the convent of Loshvielle, which was confiscated and sold at the Revolution. The land, on the sides of the hill above it, is stony, but covered with vineyards. The poles used to prop the vines were collected in stacks, and carefully covered with straw. At this valley, the military road, constructed by Buonaparte, at an immense cost to the department, begins ; it winds along the sides of the hill, with a very gentle acclivity, for about two miles, and presents the convent below, with the fruit-trees and vineyards that surround it, in a variety of striking points of view. On the summit of the hills, a tract of good wheat land, of a clayey loam, encumbered with surface- stones, and resting on a calcareous subsoil, was displayed, and continued till we reached the town of Courcelles, another miserable-looking small place. There are three lines of custom-house officers, stationed at different places on this frontier. At Courcelles were the third set ; the first had affected to examine my baggage, but, on receiving two francs, gave me no trouble; the second took no notice of any thing ; but here I was asked if I had any cari- catures, or foreign newspapers ; and, not satisfied with my answers, my little baggage was opened, and searched with great vigilance : this, I was told, arose from some recent orders. From Courcelles to within a mile of Metz, the soil was of a very heavy clayey nature, covered with stones, requiring five or six strong horses to plough it, resting on a calcareous basis, and is, I was informed, the best land in the department for producing wheat, wine, and fruits of all kinds. FRANCE. 435 Up to the gates of Metz, the German or rather a patois of that language is universally spoken by the lower class, and there seemed to be none of any other rank. Between the servant-maids at the inns and their mistresses, there appeared to be no difference either in dress, manners, or language. Through the whole distance of fifty miles from the Prussian boundary to Metz, there is not a single good house to be seen, except the convent, and that of the iron-master, noticed before. There is nothing in any of the villages, large and populous as they are, nor within sight of the road, though it is an open country, that looks like a decent farmer's or clergy- man's house. All seemed of the same standard ; each filthy, dilapidated, and small, with barn and stables adjoining of corresponding appearance. The horses and waggons looked miserable ; the cows, few, and poor ; and I did not see more than fifty sheep, which were of a bad race, and nearly half of them black. The inhabitants were ill-clothed, and at every stoppage we were assailed by numerous beggars, " pour I'amotir de Dieu." The churches are small, and seemed to be dwellings recently converted to that use, and mostly dis- tinguisliable only by a crucifix on them. One, and only one, indeed seemed to have been of a hundred years' duration. Such a country, and a population in such a condition, is admirably calculated by means of the conscription, to furnish soldiers ; and whether its present state has been brought about by the revolution, or is the same as existed before that event, it will be sure to submit implicitly to whatever exertions or severe privations may be exacted by those who can obtain the supremacy in Paris. There is no building going on, and scarcely any old houses under repair. Equality seems to have led to equal poverty. My companion, though a staunch 436 FRAN€E. defender of the Revolution, said the taxes paid by the pea^fits now amounted to more than the rent, tithes, and taxes, toge- ther, did, when they were tenants and not proprietors. '^' Metz is a fine old city, at the confluence of the rivers Moselle and Seille ; but like most fortified places, the streets are narrow, and the houses lofty. Near the river, it is more open, the quays are broad, and the bridges magnificent. The river is clear and rapid, and swells to an expanded stream, where not confined by the embankments as it is within the fortifications. The inhabitants in 1803, amounted to 32,099, and by subsequent increase, are now said to be near 40,000. It is a manufacturing city, in which are made woollen goods of various kinds, hosiery, cotton goods, table linen, printed paper, musical instruments, starch, and powder; it contains also several extensive tanneries. Much trade originates here from the produce of the vines, some of which is converted into wine, but more into brandy and vinegar. Metz is very celebrated for the preparation of various kinds of confectionary. This city is the seat of several legal tribunals, the station of the provincial boards of revenue, and of the forests for the department of the Moselle, and is the see of a bishop. The cathedral is the most perfect of the Gothic kind that I have observed on the continent; and though not so old as West- minster Abbey, may vie in external beauty with that venerable pile. The establishment for military education, called I'Ecole de GSnie AJi/itaire, has its seat in this city, and the number of the pupils is very great. I did not learn any thing definite respecting the mode of education, but I remarked that a coffee-house I visited to see the journals, was filled with these young men, and that no other papers were to be found but FRANCE. 437 those calling themselves liberal ; the journal of Benjamin Constant seemed more in request among them than any other. In passing through the different states of Germany, my passport had been seldom inquired for, and never much examined ; but at Metz, the vigilance of the police appeared to be more alive. I was under the necessity of going to the prefecture, where a description of my person was made, and the various answers to the questions proposed to me were registered. My age, birth-place, residence, profession, from whence I came, and where I was going, were all noted with a minuteness, that gave no very favourable impression of the degree of liberty that France enjoys. After some detention, a passport to Paris was given to me ; and on my demanding my English passport, which had carried me without being questioned, through other countries, I was told, I should re- ceive it in Paris, if Lord Castlereagh's signature was verified by the English minister in that city. On my road to Paris, the passport delivered to me here, was taken at the entrance of each city, and given to me again when going out at the oppo- site gate; such is the freedom which France allows ! I spent but one day at Metz. After passing the bridge over the Moselle, and clearing the numerous gates, the various canals, and the narrow ways that form the defences of this very strong city, we began to wind up a lofty hill, whose sides were wholly covered with vineyards ; and as we continued to ascend, so as to gain a clear view over the city and its imme- diate vicinity, it displayed Metz divided by the river, situated in the centre of a circle of hills, on which from the bottom to the top, nothing but fruit-gardens, and vineyards were to be seen. The vineyards are mostly in small divisions, and are 3 K 438 FRANCE. principally cultivated by small proprietors, who are extremely poor, and almost all involved in debt to the capitalists of the city, who take from them their wine, brandy, and vinegar, as soon as it is made. Some few of the vineyards are cultivated by the capitalists ; but one of the number, who was my companion over this part of the country, assured me that he could buy the productions much cheaper than he or any man could grow them. Brandy especially, he said, was so low, that it scarcely paid more than the cost of gathering the grapes, expressing and distilling them. The soil on the sides of these hills is a light sand, very shallow, and resting on a bed of soft lime-stone, very friable when first disclosed, but gradually hardening by exposure to the atmosphere. After two hours' tedious ascent, we reached the level plain above. The soil is a very tenacious clay, of a dark yellow colour, inclining to red, with a quantity of large surface stones, equal to any thing exhibited on the Kent and Surrey hills. This land bears most excellent wheat. The usual course is a clean fallow one year, during which it is ploughed from three to five times, according to the season. Wheat is then sown. It is followed by barley or oats, and with that trefoil seed is sown ; the hay made from which, the next summer, forms the third crop in the four years. The increase of grain is usually from seven to eight for one. The ploughs used in this district resemble the Kentish turn-wrest plough, in having the prin- cipal draft from the centre of the beam, and thus preventing the share from being thrown out of the furrow, when it en- counters one of the large stones imbedded in the tenacious clay. It differs from that description of plough in not sliifting the wrest, which serves as a mould board at every turning. The depth of the ploughing is regulated by the end of the beam FRANCE. 439 resting on a moveable cross piece, whose elevation or depres- sion causes the share to enter as deep as the nature of the soil requires. The work is executed by five or six horses, and they plough less than an English acre in a day. The cultivators are all proprietors. They, or their parents, generally bought the land at the Revolution for paper money ; before which, they were bound to their lords in certain feudal services and payments, and were supplied by them with the capital requisite for cultivation. The tithes were abolished at the same period that the feudal claims were annihilated ; but the withdrawing of the capital, and the imposition of the heavy tax, called the contribution fonciSre, has placed them in a worse situation than before. In the worst parts of Germany,, where the soil is poorest, and where the feudal power is still in force, the peasantry are belter clothed, have more furniture in their houses, and display more new and repaired houses than are seen in the district extending from Metz to Verdun. Between those cities, the towns of Gravcllotte, Mars-le-Tour, and Har- ville, with the intervening villages, are miserable receptacles of filth and poverty ; but in approaching Verdun, the country appeared somewhat better from its being woody, and from tlie woods advancing nearer to the road. On the whole way to Verdun, the mountains of Vosges on the left hand, at forty or fifty miles' distance, presented them- selves with their tops already covered with snow, and formed a striking contrast with the green of the intervening country. Verdun, on the river Meuse, is too well known to many of our countrymen, who were detained in it for many years. It is one of the strongest fortified places in France, and from never having been taken, has acquired the name L(2 Puceik. It is the capital of the department of the Meuse, contains 3 K2 440 FRANCE. betwixt ten and eleven thousand inhabitants, crowded together as usual in fortified cities. There are within it manufactories for a species of fine striped serges, and several large tanneries. The inn at which I passed the night, like all the houses I had seen since entering France, was excessively dirty ; but the provisions were excellent, and the cookery good, for which a sufficiently high price was charged. After ascending from Verdun, we passed through the village or small town of Dombasle, and reached Clermont, by a hilly country, with open fields, on some of which the newly-sprung wheat had a healthy appearance. Clermont is a very poor looking town, the soil round it light loam, easier to work than much I had passed, but equally encumbered with surface- stones. The forest of Argonne commenced at the end of the town, and the road was through it to St. Menehoud ; before we reached which place, we passed a collection of cottages, with a good house near it, which is so unusual in France as naturally to draw inquiries. I found it belonged to a manu- facturer of glass bottles, who provides them to the best vineyards, whose wine is sent in them from the place of its growth to that of its consumption. St. Menehoud, the com- mencement of Champagne, is on a little island, formed by the river Aisne, contains about four thousand inhabitants, some of whom are employed in making earthen-ware and glass bottles. It is a well-built town. The hotel-de-ville is a handsome edifice, with a date 1730, and none of the houses seemed to be of more recent erection. This place is the dep6t for fire-wood, which is collected in vast piles on the borders of the river, ready to be transported towards Paris. This, I was told, was the principal commerce of the city. The plains of Champagne begin near this place ; the soil FRANCE. 441 is in general a sandy loam, resting on a bed of soft lime-stone, with many stones on the surface. It is not very fertile in grain; wheat, barley, and rye, are grown. Most part of this district is calculated for wines of the best flavour, the greater portion of which are sent to foreign countries, especially those from the vineyards of Ambouay, Verzey, Mailly, Mombret, and Sillery, which are esteemed the most valuable. Chalons, the next city beyond St. Menehoud, on the banks of the river Marne, is the capital of the department of that name. It is a gloomy place ; all the houses are old, and many of them close together. The population between eleven and twelve thousand. The thin stuffs which have given a name (shalloom) to similar kinds in England are still made here ; there are manufacturers of hosiery, machinery for spinnino- cotton, with about ten thousand spindles, and several tanners and fellmongers. A great quantity of the mill-stones, called burrs, are drawn from quarries in the vicinity of the city, and are prepared here for the use of the millers ; the banks of the river were very thickly strewed with them, waiting for means of conveyance. Some of these stones were of an unusually large size, and hooped with iron. Beyond Chalons, I passed a long straggling village, very poor, and only remarkable for its church, which is a beautiful Gothic structure, of large size, with two lofty towers. I was told that this edifice was built by the English, when they were masters of France, in the rei"-n of Henry V., and that it commonly bears the name of the English church. Epernay, the next place, is a small city, of four thousand five hundred inhabitants. It is a depot for the wines of Cham- pagne ; several rich merchants collect it here to supply distant markets. There are some woollen manufactories, and some of 442 FRANCE. hosiery, cutlery, leather, and paper. Epernay seemed, though old, to be better built, and less filthy, than any town I had before passed in France. The road was by the side of the INIarne, through the towns of Dormans and Chateau-Thierry, when, to avoid the curvature of one of its larger bends, it left the banks, and reached the river again at La Ferte sous Jouarre, near the junction of the Morin, a smaller stream. The towns I have noticed have nothing remarkable about them, but the numerous villages have a wretched appearance. The houses of the peasants, and there are no others, are mostly constructed of thin weather boarding, and a very few of them were covered with plaster, but the greater part admitted the air at every joining, and almost all were covered with shingles. There are neither decent houses nor any trees to be seen on the plains of Champagne. From La Ferte to the city of Meaux, the land and the appearance of the people and their habitations, were much improved ; the fields seemed to be better cultivated, and here and there a stack of wheat was to be seen. The whole district between Chalons and Meaux, with a few slight exceptions, is rather a heavy soil, and I saw no plough at work with less than four horses, and frequently five or six were attached to them. The city of Meaux is finely situated in the midst of rich natural meadows, the best I have remarked since entering France. On these much cattle is reared and fattened ; there are some dairies, which furnish good butter and cheese, and the "-round a little elevated above tlie river is fertile in corn. Tiie Marne divides the city into two parts. A canal, upon a very extensive, and, I should think, an unnecessarily expensive scale, is constructing, designed to connect the Marne with the Seine. FRANCE. 44o Meaux contains about six thousand five hundred inhabitants; it is the seat of a bishop, of two courts of justice, and of some provincial revenue boards. There are several manufactories for tanning and currying leather, and making glue, some commerce in corn, cattle, wool, mill-stones, and fire-wood, is carried on. The buildings are as old and gloomy as in the other cities. Beyond Meaux the general appearance of the country was better, the soil generally a sandy loam, which would bear excellent turnips. Some patches of that root were to be seen occasionally, which, though scarcely hoed, discovered strong plants, and showed the capabilities of the soil. A few stacks of wheat were to be seen, but, in no instance more than two belonged to one farm, and those not in my judgment con- taining more than from thirty to thirty-five quarters. In the first ten miles from Meaux, I saw two flocks of sheep, the first about three, and the second about two hundred. They were of a fine woolled race, appeared to be a cross of the Merino breed, and were feeding on the stubbles. I remarked the whole way through France the absence of artificial grasses. Clover and trefoil in the stubbles are very rarely to be seen, though the advantage of sowing them would be very great. About ten miles from Meaux, the road entered a wood, which continued for a distance of nine or ten miles, when the country became open ; but, though so near to Paris, there was no appearance of ornamental farming, of gentlemen's seats, or those other indications of wealth and prosperity such as the environs of London and other cities display. A few good houses were visible at the end of avenues, but at Considerable distances from each other, and without any of those neat decorations or exhibitions of rural beauty which indicate the approach to a capital. 444 FRANCE. I was much impressed during the whole journey from Mentz to Paris, a distance of nearly four hundred miles, with the great inferiority of the appearance of France, and of what had been incorporated with France, to any part of Germany that I had lately passed through. The land is certainly as good, perhaps generally better, but the cultivation of it was by no means superior. The towns and cities in France are, perhaps, on a par with those of Germany, or nearly ^o ; but, in Germany, none of them had been without recent improve- ments, and all showed some new buildings, and many old ones repaired and modernized. In France, every thing looked old; no houses seem to have been built since the commencement of the Revolution, and those dilapidated and needing repairs, do not seem to have received them. It was not so much, however, in the towns, as in the villages, that the inferiority of France struck me most forcibly. In every village in Germany, a neat church, ornamented commonly with an elegant tower, is to be seen ; a decent house for the pastor, and one better for the bailiff, is universal in the villages where no nobleman resides ; and where there is one, the houses of the peasantry appear to have copied some portion of neatness from those of their superiors. The houses of the peasants there are superior to the cottages of our English labourers, and very far better than those of the French farmers. The churches in those French villages which I passed through, are miserable hovels, and the dwellings of the inhabitants are all alike dilapidated and filthy. They have no superiors to improve them by their examples, and the tax-gatherers that cojlect for the government, reside in the neighbouring towns. The want of a gentry is evident in France, and of course in the villages, much more than in the towns and cities. I remarked too the little intercourse which FRANCE. . 445 the roads in France exhibited. In three hundred miles, I met but three gentlemen's carriages, and either two or three dili- gences. Water-conveyance may diminish the number of waggons, but I met a greater number of waggons loaded with goods, between Naumburg and Weimar, a distance of twenty- four miles, than I saw between Saarbriicke and Meaux, a distance of three hundred. The dress of the rural inhabitants is very miserable, and very much inferior to what I observed in any part of Germany. In every part of Germany, 1 remarked on the poor soils many plantations, very extensive, and recently formed. In some instances, these extended over thousands of acres, but after entering France, I saw nothing recently planted. The woods appeared to be as ancient as the period when Julius Caesar described them. At each town in France I inquired for the journals, but at Metz only could I procure the sight of one ; except indeed at Meaux, where by accident I got one three or four days old, which I was assured was the latest in the city, though it is only thirty-five miles from Paris. The ignorance of the country people, and the little interest felt by the inhabitants of the provincial cities in public affairs, is very different from tlie state of Germany, where, as all can read, and as journals are very plentiful and cheap, no one is so completely ignorant, as most appeared to be in France. If I were to judge of the whole kingdom, by what I observed between Germany and the capital of France, within that city, and on my rapid journey from thence to Calais, I should con- clude that Paris was every thing, and France nothing, in the estimation of the government that now rules, or in that of any that have ruled the country for the last thirty years; I should be disposed to think that France rears soldiers, provides food, and pays taxes, and that Paris directs those resources to such 3 L 446 FRANCE. objects as the prevailing factions in the capital deem most suitable to their purposes. As I spent but one week in Paris, and as that city has be- come familiar to most English readers as well as travellers, I forbear to give any account of the exhibitions that are dis- played there. Among the natives I mixed but little, and will not give the crude opinions I heard on the state of society, or on political affairs, because the few I conversed with, were much too vehement in their party feelings, to be relied on as authority for the simplest facts. The country between Paris and Calais is certainly better in appearance, than that which I had passed through in my way to the capital ; here and there a respectable house is visible, and, I think, five or six new ones were built, or building, in a space a hundred and fifty miles in extent ; but there was the same absence of intercourse on the road, though relieved by a few carriages posting on it, which, from their neatness, and the dresses of the servants, were apparently English. The filthiness of the villages, the clothing of the inhabitants, and the numerous beggars, were nearly as disgusting as those I have already noticed. The contrast between Germany and France is great, but on landing at Dover, and proceeding to Canterbury, and from thence to London, no Englishman can fail to be proud of his country, when he compares it with that from which it is sepa- rated but by a few hours' sailing. INDEX. Aa, river of, 80 , 92, 94 Aachen, town of, 245 Agerrsberg, bishoprick of, 129 Albemarle, origin of family, 62 Alkmaar, town of, 33 Alopeus, minister, 12 Altenberg, 3, 61 Alvensleben, 153 Alzei, city of, 413 Ambouay, vineyard of, 411 Amsterdam, description of, 33, 34, 35, 40, 41, 43, 44. Anholt, town of, 77 Arangoen, agriculture of, 48, 49, 50, 51 Argonne, forest of, 440 Arnhem, description of, 54, environs of, 55, 58, 59 Artlenberg, district of, 133 Aurich, consistory of, 129 Baltic sea, 243, 248 Barth, sea-port, 249 , chemist, 267 Bastei precipice, 283, 284, 285 Bautzen, battle of, 258, 295, 314 Bavaria, 419,383 Belitz, town of, 257 Berg, duchy of, 86 Berkel, river of, 83 Berlin, decrees of, 60, 67, reviews at, 162, 166, description of, 154, 160, 164, 165, 170, 172, 189, 190, 191, 192, 193, 194, 197, 199, 202, 203, 204, 205, 207, 217, 220, 225, 227, 231, 232, 249, 254, 255 38, Beerbourg, 361 Blies river, 415 Belvedere garden, 336 Blomberg, village of, 170 Blour village, 160 53, Blucher, 139,258 Bode, astronomer, 198 Bockholt, 78 Bohemia, 157, 278, 280, 287, 289, 316 Borken, 80, 81 Bornholm, 141 Bottcher, inventor of china, 278 Brandenburg, 158, 160, 161,232,240 Bremen, 103, 106,119, 134, 141, 146, 380, 381 5 L 2 448 INDEX. Brower, painter, 30 Brunswick, city of, 144, duchy of, 124, 125, 139, 140, 141, 144, 145, 146, 147, 148, 154 Brunswick Oels, 146 Buckebourg, 107, 108 Buonaparte, Jerome, 77, 93, 134, 388 , Louis, 36, 47, 88 , Napoleon, 22, 35, 38, 55, 87, 127, 186,251,258,289,303, 361,364, 371, 372, 373, 374, 382, 400, 431,432 Burg town, 158 Buttlar town, 372, 377 Byron, Lord, opinion of, 22 1 Calais, 446 Calenbourg, farm at, 121, 123 Canabich, 332 Capel, castle of, 62 Carlsburg,418 Cassel, fortress of, 407 , city of, 134,213, 354 Chalons, 442 Champagne, 441 Chateau Thiery, 442 Charlottenburg palace, 205 Clermont, 440 Coehorn, fortifications by, 54 Coesfield,83,85 Colberg, trade of, 249 Cossacks, 371,372,432 Courcelles, 434 Creeching, 94 Cunersdorf, 256 Dantzic, commerce of, 238, 248 Delft, 5, 7,9, 13,13,20 Dessau, 299 Deux-ponts, 419 Deutichem, 62, 64 Deventer, 55 Dirchkeim, mines of, 244 Doesburg, 58, 62, 69 Domballe, 440 Donnersberg mountain, 415, 417 Dormens, 442 Dresden, 258, 260, 267 to 280, 289, 290, 294, 309, 310 Drusus, canal of, 59 Durer, Albert, 336 East Prussia, 180, 236, 238, 239, 249 Eburg, town and castle of, 96, 97 Elbe, 148, 155, 157, 160, 190, 204, 256, 260, 265, 266, 268, 269, 275, 284, 285, 286, 297, 299 Eisenach, 365, 367, 368, 369 Elbing, 248 Embden, 244 Ems river, 94 Emsbuhren, 99, 133 Epernay, 441, 442 Erasmus, 13 Erfurt, 240, 354, 355, 356, 357, 358 Erzegeburge, 314, 316 Eupen, cloth manufactory, 245, 246 INDEX. Giittenburg, 28 449 Falk, 330 Faust, 28, 29 Fichtelburg mountain, 316 Findlater, seat of Lord, 281 Flanders, 87, 202, 305, 396 Forbach, 431,433 Frankfort, descriptionof, 385, 395, 399, 400, 402 Freiburg, 314, 316 Freizland, linens of, 27 Fulda, 380, 381, 382, 383, 386 Gaspari, author, 332 Guelmenhausen, 382 George II., birth-place of, 97 Guerwith, 158 Goeree, painter, 37 Goethe, 228, 330, 332, 336, 351, 352 Gotha, 357, 360, 361, 362, 363, 365, 377 Giittingen, 130, 132, 133, 178, 347, 348 Gravellotte, 439 Greece, trade from, 246, 305, 368 Grossbeeren, 260 Groshubichen, mines of, 244 Grossenhayn, 266, 267 Grubenhagen, 133 Guelderland, 54, 62, 65 Gustavus Adolphus, 323, 325 Gutsmuths, works of, 332 Hague, 21,22,23,25, 37 Halle, 331, 352 Hamburg, 116, 134, 147,204,205,256 Hanau, 382, 383, 384, 386, 390, 395 Hanover, 96, 98, 109, 113, 115, 117, 118, 119, 123, 125, 126, 127, 128, 131, 132, 133, 134, 139, 140, 142, 146, 166, 170, Hanse Towns, imports of, 157 ' Harlem, 27, 28, 30, 33, 38, 40 Hartz, forest of, 133, 146 Harpertz, monument to, 14 Harville, 439 Havel river, 158, 160, 164, 204, 256, 259 Heligoland, 357, 368 Helmstadt, 144, 149, 153, 158 Helvoetsluys, 3, 4, 5 Herder, 330, 386 Herenhausen, 115 Hesse Cassel, 377, 386, 389, 390, 391 Hesse Darmstadt, 406, 407, 413 Hewetson, artist, 115 Heyde village, 260 Hildesheim, 125, 126, 129, 133 Hoajesk village, 265 Hbchste town, 406 Hoffman, 234 Holland, field mice of, 8, foreign built ships, 12, mills of, 18, alluvial country, 17, tulip mania of, 30, prosperity of, 67, linens of, 27, carrying trade of 42 450 INDEX. Homberg, 418 Hohenstein, 129 Honigstein, group of, 285 Hope, family seat of, 33 Huenfeld, 377, 379 Hungary, traders from, 385 Japan palace, Dresden, 275 Ibell, president, 350 Jena, city of, 351, 352, 353, 354 , university of, 344, 345, 346, 347, 350, 351 , battle of, 155, 294, 329 John of Leyden, 74 Jordaens, painter, 38 Josepha, queen of Spain, 291, 292, 293, 294 Kaisers-Lautern, 414, 417 Kalenbourg, 113, 133 Kant, philosophy of, 220 Kasan, manufactures of, 181 Keith, statue of, 201 Kinzig, river of, 384, 385 Kircheim, town of, 416 Klaproth, chemical lectures of, 198 Klopstock, poetry of, 22 1 Knipperdoling, fanatic, 74 > Konigsberg, exports of, 248 Konigslutter, 142, 143, 144 Konigstein, 284, 286, 287 Kotzebue, 229, 230, 330, 333. 334, 350 Kosdorf, village of, 261 Koster, printer, 28, 29 Krug, author, 237, 240 Kunnersdorf, 172 La Ferte sous Jouarre, 442 Landsberg, farm of, 82 Landsmanschaft, 344, 347 Landstuhl, 417 Langensalza, 240 Lausatia, 279 Lauter, river of, 416 Leibnitz, bust of, 115 Leeuwenhook, monument to, 14 Leipsic, 304, 305, 310, 314, 354, 361, 371, 372, 373, 379 Leipsic, fair of, 117, 147, 246, 306, 315, 337 Leipsic, book trade of, 306,307,315 Leipsic, battle of, 289, 295, 303, 304, 382 Lessing, the poet, 210 Leyden, 23 Leige, stone and iron of, 14, 17 Lillienstein, fortress of, 284, 286, 287 Line, river of, 113 Lingen, 99, 133 Liss, town of, 25 Lohmcn, 282 Loshvielle, convent of, 434 Lubeck, 10 Luneburg, 125, 183 'Lusatia, 314, 315 Luther, 194, 366 INDEX. 45 1 r Liitzen, town of, 323, battles of, 295, 323 Maeslandsluys, 5 Magdebourg, 154, 156, 157,236, 362 Mailly, vineyards of, 441 Maine, river of, 382, 384, 386, 406 Maine, department of, 407, 409 Malmedy, manufactory at, 245 Mansfeld, mines of, 244 Marbourg university, 389 Marne, river of, 441, 442 Marktsuhl, 370, 371 Mars le- Tour, 439 Martinshbhe, 418 Matielli, an artist, 270 Meaux, city of, 445 Meissen, 269, 278, 279, 297, 298, 301, 308, 314 Melancthon, portrait of, 194 Mentz, 405, 407, 408, 409, 410, 41 1 Meppen, 99, 133 Metz, 431, 435, 436, 437, 439, 444, 445 Meuse, river of, 5, 10, 17, 439 Minden, 100, 101, 102, 105, 170, 380 Moegelin, 173, 179, 180, 181, 182, 183, 186, 189 Moldau, river of, 229, 300 Mombret, vineyard of, 441 Montjoye manufactory, 245 Mont Tonnerre, 415, 419, 420 Moreau, monument to, 288, 289 Morin, river of, 442 Moselle, river of, 436, 437, department of, 436 Miihlhausen, 356, 357 Mulda, 316 Munich, 309 Miinster, 78, 85, 88, 94, 95, 99, 100, 129 Mursinna, surgical lectures of, 198 Musaeus, 330, 336 Naarden, 33 Napoleon, code of, 66 Nassau, 350, 406 Naumberg, 325, 327, 343, 445 Neiplitz, 259 Neisse, 365, 367, 369 Nettlested, 100, 101 Neudorf, a spa, 108, 109, 113 Neufchatel, 236 Neuhof, 381 Nordhausen, 357 Nottulen, 85, 86, 87 Oder, theriverof, 154,170,171,179, 190, 246, 248 Old Weimar, farm at, 338 Oschats, 299 Osnabruck, 95, 102, 109, 127, 129 Ostbevern, 95 Ottewalde, 282 Overschee, 10 Oxenstern, the Swedish minister, 323 452 INDEX. Palis, 443, 444 Pillau, mines at, 244, 248 Pilnitz, castle at, 281 Pinia, 269, 278, 280, 287, 288 Plauensche, canal, 158 Plauen, village of, 279, 314 Pleiss, river of, 304 Poland, sheep and pastures, 181 Pdmerania, 238, 240, 249 Poniatowski, death of, 304 Potsdam, 161, 162, 163, 164, 254,2,55,256 Prussia, from page 154 to 261 Prussia, population and extent of, from 233 to 236, cultivation of, from 237 to 242, manufactures of, from 244 to 248, commerce of, from 248 to 250, forces of, from 250 to 252, revenue of, from 252 to 254 Ramburg, painter, 115 Rammelsburg, the mountain of, 126 Ransdorf, 95 Ravensburg, castle of, 81 Rhenen, 50, 53 Rhine, the river of, 45, 51 55, 57, 204, 237, 240, 242, 244, 248, 382, 383, 385,406, 407, 409, 412 Roder, river of, 266 Roer, department of, 245 Rohrback, 418 Rosenberg, island of, 6 Rothenburg, mines of, 244 Rotter, river of, 10 Rotterdam, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 Ryswick, 23 Rudelstadt, mines of, 244 Rugenwalde, trade of, 249 Saale, river of, 324, 343, 361 Saarbriick, city of, 420 Saarden, 33 Salm-Salm, prince of, 77 Salmiinster, 382, 384 Sans-Souci, palace of, 162 Saxe-Gotha, 353, 357, 361, 362, 363, 365 Saxe-Weimar, 323, 327, 352, 353, 354, 365. 366, 368, 370 Saxony, kingdom of, from 314 to 319 Schandau, 285, 286 Schauenbourg-Lippe, 107, 113 Scheveling, 23 Scheidam, 10 Schiller, the poet, 205, 330, 333, 336 Schliichtern, 381 Schmalkald, 386 Schulenburg, 118, 119 Schulpforte, 326 Scciflin, 28 Schwarzcnburg, 353 Schwcrin, statue of, 201 Seehandlungs, society, 205 Seille, river of, 436 Seine, river of, 442 Silesia, 235, 238, 240, 244, 245 Sillery, vineyards of, 441 Sonnenstein, 288 Sombach, 415 Spain, Queen of, 290, 291 Spree, river of, 190, 202, 204 St. Avoid, 433, 434 St. John, Order of, 251 St. Menehoud, 440 Stadt, city of, 129 Stadthagen, 108, coal mines, 109 Statues, gallery of, Dresden, 275, 276 Stettin, trade of, 248 Stolberg manufactory, 245 Stolpe, trade of, 249 Stralsund, trade of, 249 Switzerland, Saxon, 280 Tamowitz, mines of, 244 Tartary, traders from, 305 Telget, town of, 94 Teyler, foundation of, 30 Thuringia, mountains of, 317, 361, 365, 366 Thurm and Taxis, prince of, 377, 400 Torgau, 278 Truenbreitzen, town of, 258, 259 Trompe, monument to, 14 Tubingen, university of, 351 Turkey, merchants from, 246, 305 Tyrol, cows of, 121 INDEX. Utrecht, 33, 36, 44, 45 47, 48, 55 453 Universities, 191, 197,225,228 Vandyke, paintings by, 196 Vecht, river of, 39, 94 Verdun, 439. 440 Verzey, vineyard of, 441 VonThaer, 169, 170, 173, 174, 176, 178; his sheep, 1 79, 181; classifications, 183, 184; lectures on agriculture, 198 Voigtland, 314 Vosges, mountains of, 439 Wageningen, city of, 53 Wallenstein, tragedy of, 205 Wartberg, castle of, 365, 369, 373 Waterloo, battle of, 87, 116, 258, 389, 432 Weimar, 329, 330, 332, 336, 337, 339, 340, 343, 354 Weiland, 220, 336 Weissenfels, 324, 325, 328 Werra, 371, 372, 380, 386 Wernichen, 171 Wesel, 248 Weser, 101, 104, 105, 107, 113, 361, 380, 386 Westphalia, 88, 97, 91, 98, 103, 110, 122, 153, 213, 244 West Prussia, 36, 240 Woolf's manufactory, 202 Wolgast, trade of, 249 3 M 454 Wrede, General, 383 Wurzen, 299, 300, 301 Yssel, 5.5, 59 Zach, Baron, 358, 359 INDEX. Zell, courts of, 125, 128 Ziethen, statue of, 201 Zollikofer, 310 Zuinglius, portrait of, 194 Zuyder Sea, 33, 37, 55, 94 Zweibriicken, 419 Till. END. I ON DON : PiiriM-d hj \V . (:l<)\* I.S, Norlliiiniljeil.in 1 (Mtiit. University of California SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 405 Hilgard Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90024-1388 Return this material to the library from which it was borrowed. 1 1 ^Mh O,' Wli Q QL' W^ mi Form L! •* THE LIBRARY UNIVERSITY O^ TALTFORNIA LOS ANGELES ♦DD37 J15v Jacob - A view of the agricultvire . . * of Gemeiny .', . JI\N7 19§TL ^ /^ 3 1158 00233 4 646 D 000 592 36 *DD37 J15v ^r ■':;:■ ::r^.-;:;W;|:> ■' ^■H^H^HHK;: