mv^^ ^^/smimW' -^ommnw ^oxmmw g £ SOI' '^ilflAIN(l-3V&i ^ ^5J(\EUNIVER% '^mmw ^•UBRARYO^ (J ^YOc^ ^l-UBRARYOr, <5SJEUNIVERSyA v^lOSANCEl% "S "i^r^^ ^^ %/^^ MS ^«^ ^© 3.io>^ ^«)jnwjov' ^^DNVsm'*^ "^AWAiNd-a^^ IF0B5^ ^OFCAUFOR^ ^5MFIINIVER% ^lOSANCEl^^ ant^ ^<fQmm\^ "^mmm^ "^imhrn^ "v/sajAiNft-awv* ^^Auvjianiw' v^Aavaaniv^ %13 ^5S\EUNIVERy/^ %a3AIN(l-3Vi^ o ^^AHvaan-T^ ^f^uoNvsoi^ %a3AlNfl3«^ o so ^laSANCElQ^ ^mm^p^ ^HIBRARYQ^ ^wnw-io^ ^OFOUIFOR^ ■%QMNfli\ft^ "^omwi^ •^omrni^' ^tUBRARYQc ^OFCAUFOR^ <55^EUNIVER%. 2s I C^iO^ "T» clOSANCElG;^ ^^MEUNIVERS!;^ ;10SASCH% CJ ^ JOURT^AL OF A RESIDENCE IN ENGLAND, &c., &c. JOURNAL OF A RESIDENCE IN ENGLAND, AND OF A JOURNEY FROM AND TO SYRIA, OF THEIR ROYAL HIGHNESSES REEZA KOOLEE MEERZA, NAJAF KOOLEE MEERZA, AND TAYMOOR MEERZA, OF PERSIA. TO WHICH ARE PREFIXED SOME PARTICULARS RESPECTING MODERN PERSIA AND THE I3tati) of ti)t late ^\)ai). ORIGINALLY WRITTEN IN PERSIAN, BY H. R. H. NAJAF KOOLEE MEERZA, Son of Prince Firman Firman, Grandson of H. M. Fathali Shah, the late Emperor of Persia ; AND TRANSLATED, WITH EXPLANATORY NOTES, BY ASSAAD Y. KAYAT. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. II. PRINTED FOR PRIVATE CIRCULATION ONLY. WILLIAM TYLER, PRINTER. BOLT-COURT, LONDON. D CONTENTS OF VOL. II. Page Dinners at the Marquis of Salisbury's, Lord Palmer- ston's, &c 1 Description of the Railroads . . . . .10 Account of London, and of England in general . . 17 Account of Bavaiia, &c 200 Account of Passports ....... 201 Account of Hungary . 209 Account of Austria, &c 215 Account of Walachia . . . . . . .2.37 JOUENAL PERSIAN PRINCES. Friday the 12th, we were imated to the Marquis of SaHsbury's, where we met a noble assemblage, similar to that which we have already described. Many of the nobility and gentry of this kingdom were present at this assembly, all splendidly dressed, and all imited in dancing. We took our seats at one side, gazing at this adorned party, among which we admired many angelic faces. The expenses of this entertainment must have been a considerable sum, and we in every respect were quite pleased with our visit. Saturday evening the 13th, we were invited by VOL. II. B r 2 JOURNAL OF Mr. White, a friend and agent of Farren Saheb,* the consul-general at Damascus. Here we took dinner, where also we met some other friends, and verily it was a very pleasant, lovely party. Sunday evening the 14th, we went to the enter- tainment of Lord Palmerston, the Vizir for Foreign affairs. When we entered the house we did not find him present. We asked about him, the other guests present informed us that news had just arrived that the king of the French had recently received a signal mercy of G od, in a very narrow escape from being shot by a person, who fired at him ; this happened as follows : This dishonour- able assassin had for some time in view to destroy the Shah, but he could not find an opportunity, on account of the life guards surrounding the king. At this time he loaded a gun, it is said, with twenty-five bullets, and approached the Ba- dishah w^hile he had only seven attendants. He suddenly fired the gun at the king, six of the attendants were killed, and the king was saved. After this had taken place, the king called together * Saheb expresses Esquiic, Friend, :ind Mr. THE PERSIAN PRINCES. O his Government, informing them of this terrible outrage. The assassin was taken up, and was sent before the house of justice. This event had taken place this morning at Paris, and the news reached Lord Palmerston about sunset of the same day, although the distance is about 300 miles ; thus Lord Pahnerston went to present the news before the throne of his Majesty. In the mean time, I held some conversation with the ambassador of tlie Grand Seignior, and with the Vizir of Hindoostan, and the other vizirs who were present at the same entertainment. An hour after, Lord Palmerston returned from the royal palace and presented us his excuse, and then we went to dinner. It was a very large table, the vessels of which were of gold. All kinds of nice and delicious dishes were served. After the dishes were removed, then was brought to the table all sorts of sweets and fruits. We have here observed all fruits that we ever saw, besides many kinds that we had not before seen, such as are imported from India, the New World, and Africa ; all could not grow at the same seasons, yet all looked as if they had just been plucked from the tree. We then asked how it was ma- * JOURNAL OF naged, to have such fruits out of their season, and so fresh. They said, that most of them grow in hot-houses, and some are carefully preserved. Even the pistachio nuts grow here better than in their own chmate. All other fruits of hot coun- tries, such as melons, musk-melons, grapes, pome- granates, apricots, peaches, &;c. were on the table quite fresh, and all sorts of lemons, oranges, ci- trons, quinces, &c. were also placed on the table. Perhaps such an entertainment might have cost seven or eight thousand tomans, because a sheep here is worth eight tomans, and fruit is very dear, a melon is worth ten tomans, and a bunch of grapes is worth three tomans, and a damask plum one toman. Notwithstanding these dear prices, they give such entertainments. In truth, it was a noble party, and we spent some very, pleasant hours of the night, conversing on interesting topics, and afterwards returned to our mansion. Monday the 15th, we were invited to Moham- med Ismael Khan's ; he offered us some fine re- freshments, and we conversed together on some Arabic and Persian poetry. He is a well educated gentleman and of excellent manners. His harem THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 6 (lady) is an Indian, a pious and religious Moham- medan ; she left home for the desire of visiting the most holy sacred house of God.* Now when she was informed of us, and being of the same reli- gion, she came to see us. She complained muchf of her residence with the infidels, and said, " I came out from my country, most anxious and desirous to be honoured in the most holy house, and now, it is four months since I came to this country, where I have not yet seen anyone of the believers." Then she wept very bitterly, and begged me to hear her read some chapter in the most glorious book. I accepted her request, and allowed her to fetch the holy book, when she was exceedingly happy to repeat a few verses. Afterwards she begged that we would come and dine with them on some day, when she intends to cook some nice dishes with her own hands ; she said also, that she * Mecca, t 1 was with the Prince, and afterwards I visited her again; she taking me for a Mussulman, desired mc to read witl) licr the Koran : I did so ; she then requested me, as often as I could, to give her some les- sons in the same book. I think that she did not complain so much of licr residence among the Infidels, as she did of her husband's at- tending the most lieliglitful English parties, and his enjoying such society. B 2 b JOURNAL OF had already bought a lamb for ten tomans and desired to kill it,* and eat it with some friends ; such as we are. So we accepted her invitation, which was for the following Friday. Tuesday the 16th, Noori Effendi, the ambassa- dor of Sultan Mohammed, called to see us; he manifested his friendsliip, and we did the same. In the evening, we went to the opera ; where a new representation with dancing took place, hke that already mentioned and more. Wednesday the 17th, we visited the King's Col- lege, having been beforehand invited by the pro- fessors. This college is one of the institutions of tliis country. It is a very large, lofty edifice, of numerous apartments, enough to accommodate 10,000 scholars; there have already been in it that number of students, endeavouring to obtain thewon- derful sciences. Each class has a different depart- ment ; one day in the year all the students meet hi a large, lofty room. On this day many of the nobihty and gentry come to this assembly. Then • Our readers ■will recollect, that the Mohammedans observe the same law, of killing animals, as the Jews ; in consequence, consider the meat in Christendom as unlawful. THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 7 the students of different classes present themselves, and every one stands before his professor, in the presence of the college agent, and gives a proof of his progress in his studies. Many questions are put to him on different points, which he ought to answer, to show his quaUfications, which if great would be also an honour to his teacher. When he satisfies the examiner, a prize of twenty tomans immediately is presented to him, generally a hand- some book wath gold binding. As soon as he re- ceives his prize, he is applauded by perhaps 40,000 persons who may be present ; it is done by clapping of hands. In the evening we visited a large gar- den, beautifully lighted up, and the fireworks that we saw here made us forget all others we had already seen. A garden, a heaven, large, adorned with roses of different colours in every direction, the water was running on the beautiful green, pictures were drawn on every wall. Here and tliere were young moonly faces selling refreshments. There were burning in this place about two millions of lights, each giving a different colour ; the lanterns and lights are so arranged as to make poetry, in such a manner that they have no end. On every 8 JOURNAL OF side there appeared the moon, and the sun, with the planets, each moving in its orbit ; and in every Vi^alk there were about 10,000 Frank moons,* walking and gazing about, where the roses and their tribes were admiring their beautiful cheeks. Each was taken by the hand, such a company in such a place says to the soul, Behold thy para- dise ! — pleasure and joy appear ; woes and sor- rows are banished ; — every hand asked for a glass of refreshment to present to the possessors of jasmine hands. Thus we were happy to have in each hand a paradisean companion, and to point out the beauties of the place, in order to draw forth the sweet music of their re- plies ; we left the rose and met a pink ! are we awake or in a dream ? We walked in this gar- den from one place to another, till we came to a place where we saw crowds of people gazing at a boy elegantly clad who was playing on a rope ; now we were as though we had lost our mind. This rope was made fast high above in the garden, on which this boy was dancing ; indeed he was like a bird with wings in the air. Afterwards * English laJies. THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 9 a young [ and beautiful girl handsomely dressed increased our surprise, she joined the boy, and they played together in a most wonderful manner, enough to take away the senses to look at them. When the boy and girl had finished their ma- noeuvres, the people in the garden went to another place, where there was a wheel which was set on fire : as soon as it was lighted it began to ascend, throwing out fire of red, green, blue, j^el- low, and other colours wonderfully, as if all the world had taken fire, and continued to ascend till it reached the sky. All this was done without giving any unpleasant smell of powder. The people that make such fireworks, derive a large income from it ; also the Treasury receives a great annual sum from them. We had an exceedingly interesting exhibition, and returned home perfectly satisfied wdth our visit. Thursday the 18th, we visited that place which is celebrated over all the world. This was the Thames Tunnel, the construction of which would never enter the human mind. The noble river Thames is navigable for ships of the line ; the ships pass over the heads of the people in the following 10 JOURNAL OF manner : The learned men of England in their wisdom have dug a tunnel under this river. It is constructed in the form of arches, and mira- culously lighted vs^ith gas, and it is free from all damp. Thus they have most wonderfully succeeded in making a road under the water, Kke a bridge under the sea, from one side of the river to the other. To this we call the attention of all travellers. In truth, it may be called a glory of this country, and the name is a sufficient reward for the millions of money that have been spent. It is established by the law that any person who passes this tunnel must pay a certain sum, so that in a short time they may receive what they have spent. After this we went to the road of iron, or raih'oad, which is near the Tunnel. On railroads there are steam- coaches, which go at the incredible rate of forty miles an hour. Description of the Railroads. The wise and learned men of the Franks knowing that expedition in passing over great THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 11 distances would be of immense advantage^ the learned English in the New World invented first steam vessels, and afterwards they were used by other nations. All the wonderful arts which require strong power are carried on by means of steam, which has rendered immense profits and advantages. The English then began to think of steam coaches, which are especially applicable to their coun- tiy, because it is small, but contains an enormous population. Therefore, in order to do away with the necessity for horses, and that the land which is sown with horse-corn should be cultivated with wheat, so as to cause it to become much more plentiful, (as it is the most important article of food,) and that England might thereby support a much greater population, they have with their ingenious skill invented this miraculous wonder, so as to have railroads from the capital to all parts of the kingdom. Thus, by geome- trical wisdom, they have made roads of iron, and where it was necessary these roads are elevated on arches. The roads on wliich the coaches are placed and fixed are made of iron bars. The coach is so fixed that no air or wind can do it 12 JOURNAL OF any harm, and twenty or thirty coaches may be fixed to tlie first in the train, and these one after the other. All that seems to draw these coaches is a box of iron, in which they put water to boil, as in a fire-place ; miderneath this iron box is like an urn, and from it rises the steam which gives the wonderful force : when the steam rises up, the wheels take their motion, the coach spreads its wings, and the travellers become like birds. In this way these coaches go the incredible distance of forty miles an hour. We actually travelled in this coach, and we found it very agreeable, and it does not give more but even less motion than horses; when- ever we came to the sight of a distant place, in a second we passed it. The little steam engine pos- sesses the power of eighteen horses. These roads are made for two coaches, one to go and another to come ; there are also paths for people on foot. The box that raises the steam is joined to another, and the steam goes from the one to the other, where it dissolves into water ; they do not require water but once in three days. In time, these valuable roads will be estabHshed all over Europe, and which will render the shareholders an enor- 9 THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 13 mous income. To-day, we paid a visit to two most interesting objects. Friday the 18th, we went out of the Capital to a city forty miles off. Here, there is a large river, over which they construct in five minutes a complete bridge, on which carriages of artillery and horses, &c. might pass in perfect safety. In the same manner the bridge is withdrawn in five minutes. We had a very good exhibition, but the distance was great ; and, we being engaged to-day to dine with Mohammed Ismael Khan, we tried if possible to return in time for dinner, but it was not possible, even two horses were nearly killed, and did not arrive at the time. But brother Wali having remained at home went to that party at the fixed dinner time. There he met the son of Tippoo Sultan ; after dinner he returned home. Tuesday the 19th, I went in the morning to the house of Mohammed Ismael Khan, offering excuse for not being able to attend the night before. Afterwards we paid a visit to Sir John Hobhouse, the Vizir of the East Indies. He was sitting in his magnificent apartments, and we had with him some conversation respecting our affairs and those VOL. II. C 14 JOURNAL OF of Persia in general, and afterwards we returned to our residence, and on this day, three hours before sunset, we went to the house of Woolock Saheb, who had invited us to dinner. He was formerly ambassador in Persia for twenty-two years, and knew both the language and customs very well. Here we met several personages who had been formerly in Persia as ambassadors and residents, who also spoke the language, and others who ob- tained our language in the East Indies. Here we were shown many books in Persian, and several other things from the East. This house is beau- tifully situated on the bank of the river Thames, and has a most pleasant garden, and excellent air. Among the trees of roses we took a walk, and afterwards we entered a boat to look at the noble river, where we saw a new art which we had not before seen. It was a bridge of iron, constructed as follows : — There are two lofty arches erected on both banks of the river, on these arches there are fixed two very thick chains of iron, and bars of iron like planks were placed on these chains, over which were fixed the planks of wood. They could in THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 15 ten minutes fix or unfix this great bridge, hanging sometimes as if it were in the air. After we had well examined this, we returned to the house ; the dinner was served, consisting of all kinds of nice dishes, delicious sweets and fruits, and the conversation was kept up in Persian. After we had spent some very pleasant hotirs of the night we left, and called upon Lady C , sister to Lord M , the Vizir Azam, (or prime Minis- ter). All the vizirs, princes, nobles of this Daw- let (or Government) were present at this assembly, and we were introduced to each other, and formed their acquaintance, including Lord M him- self, and all manifested to us their friendship : here also we met Lord G — — — , the Vizir of the New World, who invited us to dinner. We remained till nearly the morning at this happy assembly, all the time admiring the angelic faces. Sunday the 20th, we remained at home, when many friends of the nobility came to see us. Monday the 21st, about the Asser, we went to the house of a very great Nobleman, Duke of B., who is also richer than any other of the nobility of this kingdom. Majestic splendour and impe- 16 JOURNAL OF rial greatness appeared at his house. Many princes, vizirs and nobles, were present at this assembly, also many handsome ladies sunk in jewels and precious stones, the beauty of whom made the sun that illuminates the world look ashamed of itself. His house is situated on the river Thames, where many of the young nobility and great personages were in their boats, betting with each other about their best saihng. The band of musicians were also standing by. The one who beats, receives the high tune of praise from the musicians, and the beautiful ladies clap their hands, burning the hearts of their admirers. In several directions of the garden, were tables fur- nished with all sorts of sweets and refreshments for the pleasure of the visitors. More than 200,000 tomans on this day changed owners. Here also we met the Shah Zadeh,* the Duke of Cumberland, a brother of the Badishah : his Royal Highness showed us the utmost politeness of friendship. He is a true noble Prince, and a kind friend. Tuesday the 12th. About noon we went to a ♦ Royal Prince, but literally, it means son of a King. THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 17 jeweller's shop. Praise be to God! what a num- ber of most valuable jewels ! what a quantity of gold vessels ! how beautifully they are made ! in fact, the mind cannot but be astonished. This is a mercantile shop of the city of London. We left tliis shop quite surprised at the wealth of this country. On our way to this mansion we observed some domes (balloons) flying to heaven, and men in them ; this is as great a miracle as any. Account of London, and of this kingdom in general. This kingdom consists of three great divisions, viz., England, Scotland, and Ireland. Scotland is connected with England, Ireland is a separate island. These islands are surrounded by the Great Sea and the North Sea. These islands are bounded northward by the North Sea. (In this direction by sea, there is no habitation till the New World, a distance of upwards of 2000 miles.) Southward it is bounded by France, which is separated from this country by a channel of twenty-three miles in width, which is crossed in three hours : westward c 2 18 JOURNAL OF by the Atlantic Ocean, and eastward by Gennany. Between England and Ireland is a channel fifteen miles broad. They are under the 51st degree of latitude, and according to the four divisions of the world, they are in Europe. Being near the north pole, England has a very cold cUmate ; so irre- gular is the weather, that in four hours you may experience the four seasons of the year. It is generally cloudy, and the four seasons have no separate ranks. Even in summer it is cloudy and rainy. Owing to the constant rains in all seasons, the whole country is green as a garden of emerald colours. Thus aU the quadrupeds here enjoy the green which they eat all the year long. Sometimes it happens, that for a month or forty days they do not see the sun, and the air becomes damp. The length of their days, from daybreak till sunset, grows from the beginning of Cancer as long as eighteen hours and a half, and the nights, from the beginning of Capricornus, are eighteen hours and a half. Most of the public affairs are decided at night. These islands are 3000 miles round. Their population is 27,000,000, which is equal to fifty-four kerrors of THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 19 Persia. The revenue to government, the whole of which is spent, is 60,000,000, or 120 kerrors of ours. But when government goes to war, they raise much more money. Tliis took place during the war with Buonaparte, when the people gave the wonderful sum of 840 millions, which was spent dui'ing the said war. There are to he found in these islands mines of gold, silver, lead, tin, mercury, iron, and salt. But the greatest of their mines, (which are like gold mines,) are their coal mines, which are essential to all their steam inventions hoth for vessels, railroads, and ma- nufactures. The income of their precious coal mines is two hundred kerrors and a half per day. The capital of this kingdom is the celebrated London. Although in all the kingdom there is not a span of land uncultivated or without habitation, and we might call it all one city, yet London by itself is a Dooniachah, or MvKpoKotTfjLos. It contains a population of 2,000,000. This extraordinary amount is known by the census ; even the houses are numbered. There are people who are worth millions of money ; indeed, unless a person should be very rich, he could not enjoy life in this 20 JOURNAL OF capital. If a man gets short of money, he would be obKged to sell his house and leave the city. The competition of multitudes of people causes the land all over the kingdom to be exceedingly dear. Inside the city of London, a foot of ground may be worth a hundred tomans. Some houses, with a little garden in them, may be worth to a person the sum of 300,000 and 400,000 tomans. London is one of the largest cities in the world, which are as follows : — first, London, the capital of this kingdom ; second, Paris ; third, Pekin, the capital of China. Although Pekin js not so beautiful and complete as London, yet Pekin has been estimated to contain a population of 3,000,000 ; fourth, Astambool, or Constantino- ple ; fifth, Rome, the capital of the Romans ; * sixth, Vienna, the capital of the Emperor of Aus- tria ; seventh, Petersburgh, the capital of Russia. The greatest, the most populous, the most noble of them, is London. The river Thames passes through it. Although the water of the river Thames is not more than that of the Euphrates, and perhaps less, yet the English, by their wisdom and skill, have made it navigable for ships of the THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 21 line. There are over it twelve wonderful bridges, each of which cost three kerrors, and perhaps some of them four or five kerrors. One of these bridges is made of iron, without being mixed with a piece of stone or plank, which is distinct from the other bridge of iron that I have already men- tioned. The ships on this river are like forests. The large men-of-war are 1200 in number, some of which are of 1 20 guns ; these, besides the packets and steamers. The least of their navy carries thirty guns. The British mercantile vessels are above 25,000, such is their extreme and extensive commerce. Indeed, the English power on the sea is so great, even that the present sovereign, during the reign of Ills brother, was the Lord High Admiral, and he spent a very long time of his life on the seas. In fine, all the ships of other nations on the globe could not equal the number of the English ships alone, nor ten foreign men-of-war stand in battle against one English ; they have always been victorious over their enemies. One of the twelve vizirs of government has the management of the navy ; he is called the High Lord of the Admiralty ; Lord Minto fills this high station at 22 JOURNAL OF present. In his hand is the direction of the whole navy. Besides the above-mentioned ships, they have innumerable others in the West and East Indies, in America^ and AustraHa, which are called out at the time of necessity. The water of the river Thames is very heavy, and not at all good for the digestion, nor could it ever produce an appe- tite. Yet the people of this country do not use water as a drink ; when it is necessary they take a little, once in three or four days. The principal arts and manufactures are out of the city ; the goods are brought into the town for sale ready made. The shops in this city and the streets are as follows : In every street there is the light of many thousand moons put together. All the houses are of five stories high, and have windows with glass, looking to the streets. All round the outside of the houses there are fine balustrades of elegant iron bars, which are truly admirable. Their doors are beautifully worked, and many have gold knockers of a hundred tomans' value. The houses are regularly numbered, and the names of the proprietors are written upon them, and those that are in business have their THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 23 profession written on the doors of their houses. Thus, for example : if a man wishes to write to another, he has only to know the name of the individual, and from the book printed for the pur- pose can find liis address. Thus he is guided, and may addi'ess the letter according to the book. In every street there are boxes where he can put the letter, which will be forwarded, and may obtain an answer through the same means. By such extraordinary facilities their business is con- ducted. Many other such advantages they have for their aifairs, which at first would appear as incredible ; but by examining them, you will find that every man is furnished with such preparation as to perform his work without the least trouble. As to fruits, those of both cold and warm climates, are made to grow here in hot-houses, as already mentioned, but very dear. Some fruits and other eatables are imported from other countries: wine also of different kinds, which is to them a staff of life, is imported from foreign countries, for they have not a drop of their own produce. Most of their necessary articles are also brought from other parts : such as cotton, wool, sugar, rice, coffee, &c. ; 24 JOURNAL OF corn also is imported; most of these articles are brought from the New World, which itself for- merly used to import them from the East Indies, but now they cultivate them themselves, and stand in no need of other places ; especially they cultivate the ginger, which is as fine as the snow, and superior to any of other countries. It is so rich in soil that it produces enough for the home consumption, and also to export to England and other kingdoms of Europe. The most important article from the East Indies is cotton : vessels daily arrive in Eng- land loaded with this article. The cotton manu- factory in this kingdom has risen to such a height that they bring the raw materials from such a distance of five months' passage : they pay taxes thereon ; but their wonderful machines and skill enable them to make such an enormous profit; that is, they send it back manufactured or twisted, and make thereby wonderful gain. Indeed they export their cotton manufactures to all parts of the world. In a word, they gathered up to them- selves all the arts of all parts. Their commerce is attended to, and every thing is watched to pro- tect it. If any individual or individuals invent or THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 25 propose to bring forward any thing which may seem to injure the public or the interest of com- merce, whatever its importance may be, it will not be allowed by Government. In fact, every thing that relates to this worldly prosperity is conducted in perfect order. "What to us may appear difficult to the mind, to them is very easy. The people of this kingdom are of genteel nature, and dehcate constitution; most of the ladies, and females in general, are more delicate and rejEined than the blossom of roses. Their waist is more slender than a finger ring, their form is beautiful, their voice gains the affections. The men are very particular in their disputes, which are carried on with great ability. If there should be the widest possi])le misunderstanding, still they keep up the rules of poKteness. If it should rise so high as to produce vindictive feeling, still they carry on their disputes in a genteel style, and bad language (God forbid !) is not used. To be called a liar is the utmost insult : this will lead to a duel ; the duel is allowed here. Sometimes this happens in such circumstances as the following : If a man should be at an assembly, and should have some- VOL. II. D 26 JOURNAL OF thing said to him improper or disgraceful, he who feels it to be such would at once leave the room. Then he will relate it to some friend, sa3dng, that he heard so and so, at such a place, in such a party, which he did not like at all. Then his friend will reply, " So and so perhaps did not intend to insult you, he might have said it by accident, write a note, and I will carry it to him, and learn more fully." Then the plaintiff will write to him a respectful letter as follows : " At such and such a day, at such an assemblage, I heard you say such words which made my heart feel angry, please to explain to me what you meant." Then the friend will carry the note, and request an answer. If the object of the accused is not to insult him, he will write him an answer as follows : " Upon my honoiir I never intended to create any displeasure in you, and should I have said any thing which you consider improper I now beg your par- don." Such an answer will settle the question. But if otherwise, he will neither excuse liimself nor beg pardon, but will answer as follows : " I have received your letter, wliich I will thus answer: meet me on such a day, at such a place, and therebyyou THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 27 will be informed, and learn all the particulars." This will give him to understand that the object is a duel. Then he informs his friends of it, and commences preparations to meet his oppo- nent, and hkewise the other will inform his friends that he has already appointed the time to fight with such a man. Then the friends of both endeavour to settle the question between them, but generally, this cannot be effected without fighting the duel. However, when all mediations fail, then the two individuals, accompanied by their respective friends as witnesses, meet at the appointed place, exactly at the fixed hour, which will be pubHshed in the newspapers. When the two come to this place with their pistols, then the friends use their utmost influence of mediation ; if at last all should be in vain, then they separate from each other a distance of twenty feet, and the signal will be given when both fire. Then it becomes a matter of chance ; sometimes both of them are hit and perish, and perhaps no one is hit, or one dies, and the other is saved. Thus the question is finished ; this act is permitted by their law which does not condemn it, and it has been a well-known 28 JOURNAL OF practice among the fools of this nation from the ancient times. It is quite similar to the old foolish custom of the heathens, who threw both the plaintiff and defendant into the fire, believing that the flame would only burn the criminal and not the inno- cent. Thus, also, these people believe that the bullet will not hit the innocent, and this old foolish custom is continued among the imprudent class of the Franks ; this, however, takes place more in France than other parts. Just at this time we observed in the newspaper that a great man in that country had been killed in this act. In fine, in former times, the Franks, especially those of England, were like animals and quad- rupeds, and had no arts of any description. They dwelt in forests, mountains, and the extreme coasts of the sea, dressed in the skins of animals, eating the natural productions of the earth, and if they had a king, they sometimes killed liim ; and likewise their kings killed many of the people. These oppressions, outrages, and violations caused always quarrels between the kings and their sub- THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 29 jects. Many people, during the Height of oppres- sion, had no rest, and were obliged to abandon the country, and go to the New World and other parts. It appears that at different times, accord- ing to the wisdom of the Lord the Omnipotent, oppression falls upon the people in different king- doms, according to the state of their hearts. These horrible outrages which at this time are practised to their extreme in the Asiatic kingdoms, are entirely banished from Europe, where there is no oppression, and cannot be. In all parts and cities of England which we visited, the inhabitants are a very high-minded people, and conduct their affairs with perfect prudence, so much so, that they have no governors, nor do they require civil power. All of them know the law, and what is justice : they obey their laws, which are founded on liberty. Every person enjoys this liberty, and acts according to its laws. Vizirs, princes, even the king himself, has no power to kill a bird. For instance, should the king fire at a bird during the prohibited season, he must stand before the law, and receive the decision thereof; in short, every person is under the law. Slavery among 30 JOURNAL OF them is prohibited and forbidden ; and if a man should come here with a negro, the slave, the mo- ment that his foot reaches the English land, is free. Their love of liberty is beyond measure ; so much so, that at present they have abolished slavery in their colonies, in the following manner. Their colonies in the West Indies and other parts, are beautifully and richly cultivated, where also all kinds of arts are employed ; they are in- debted for this to the quantity of water and good soil which they enjoy, yet almost all the work was done by negro slaves, both male and female, who were bought and imported by the colonists from the coast of Africa. These slaves were employed in cultivating the sugar plant. But when the English at home began to think that all these productions of the colonies, which they received and ate daily, were cultivated by the forced labour of the slaves, and that if they compelled their masters to free them, the colonies would greatly suffer; at last, after discussing this matter for a month, the nation at home liberally granted the enormous sum of twenty millions of pounds ster- ling to the colonists to free the slaves. Thus they THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 31 were liberated, and the trade was abolislied, and those people who were once slaves, will now grow up as independent men, seeking after knowledge and fame. The English are not accustomed to enter- tain strangers in their houses like the Easterns ; and unless they see some prospect of advantage, they will not spend a dinar.* But when they ob- serve a prospect of gain they spend millions : they even plant now, and have no objection to gather the fruit after a hundred years. In charity, and supporting the poor and or- phans, they are exceedingly liberal ; so much so, that they give ten per cent, per annum of their income to institutions of charity. On account of the dear prices of living, there may be, out of the 27,000,000 of population, 7,000,000 poor ; but not a single person begs in the streets, nor in any part of the kingdom ; in fact, if there should be any one begging, he would be taken up imme- diately and punished for it, as it is against the law ; because, in every quarter, there is a house built on purpose for charity, where the poor are accommodated. An agent is appointed for it, who receives the revenue from the good men, and • A tliousand dinars make a shilling. 32 JOURNAL OF spends it on clothing and maintaining the poor comfortably. There is also in every part an hos- pital: these hospitals are for the sick poor, are beautifully built, and have many bequests, giving large incomes, which are spent for the relief and cure of the poor, who are also attended by well- paid medical men and surgeons of first-rate ability, with servants always on duty, in short, every thing of clothing and diet, that is most suitable to sick people. These hospitals have agents with salaries, to see that every thing is right, and to collect the income ; the agent must also present an account once in six months to the society, and if the revenue has not been enough, they will make it up with all their hearts, and if it should be more, then they put it to interest, by which they increase the income of the institution. All these institutions have taken their rise within a period of two hun- dred and ninety years. Before that time the people were wild beings, and now they cultivate all branches of science, so much so, that their children are sci- entifically educated, and speak twenty languages. They do not spend one moment in vain. Great and small, old and young, every one is endeavour- THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 33 ing to enlarge his interest. Perhaps, out of this 27,000,000 of population, there is not a single soul who does not know how to read and write, not even the dumb, deaf, or bHnd. They do not give credit for fine hand-^vriting ; they say, writing is good enough if it can be read, and they do not spend the time simply in learning a beau- tiful hand. They have several thousand colleges and schools, for instructing in every class of learn- ing, on which they have spent miUions of money. All this for education and wisdom. Verily, such a magnificent kingdom and high nation is not, in these times, in any other part of the world, nor has such an one been, even in ancient times, men- tioned in the histories. Their wealth comes from their arts and extensive commerce, and they daily find new inventions, and make others grow jealous. They send out their vessels with their artificial articles, and in return receive them laden with solid gold. They have no desire of gaining pos- session of other comitries, nor of raising money by their civil power. They say, "If we take possession of foreign countries, and wdsh to keep them in a good condition, and have the natives 34 JOURNAL OF satisfied, we must then spend in that country whatever income we may raise ; if not, the people will not be satisfied, and the country will never ad- vance. Abetter possession than the East Indies there is not, where we have above 100,000,000 of sub- jects: the ci\al income is about £50,000,000, which are spent in it. The only interest we have in its possession is for our commerce ; what is, there- fore, the use of being at the expense of taking other kingdoms, which would only give us trou- ble, and be of no profit at all ? " Thus they do not regard extensive lands. They like to be on good terms ^vith all foreign powers, and desire peace to rule over the face of the earth. They always take great interest in estabhshing peace between such powers as are at war, even if they spend millions of money on it. Their object is to pre- vent war, and keep the world in tranquillity ; their policy in it is this, that war would take away the security and happiness of the people, that com- merce would be stopped, and their trade much injured, which would be a great loss to their revenue. But if the world remain in peace, their goods will be always wanted, for which they re- THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 35 ceive gold. For this important principle, they have a Board of Trade, whose duty it is to see into and promote the welfare of commerce. There are, also, for the encouragement of commerce, some large establishments, called Offices of In- surance, which are established by law, with mil- lions of capital. For instance, if a man wishes to send some goods to other countries, say to Constantinople, or Damascus, and is afraid of loss by sea, either by their being wrecked or burnt, he need not be prevented by these suspicions. He has only to send his goods on board, and get a receipt for them from the captain, (wliich they call a bill of lading ;) he then takes the receipt to the insurance office, and declares the value of the goods he has exported, and on every thousand tomans, he pays the company ten tomans, (which is one per cent ;) then he receives a written legal contract from the company, that so and so has insured such a sum on such goods, exported in such a vessel, and that if any thing shoidd happen to them either by fire or shipwreck, &c., the company undertake to pay him for it. Thus the merchant, with perfect safety, exports his goods. 36 JOURNAL OF There are also many other such establishments, agamst fire and other accidents, the gains of which are considerable, and their losses innumerable ; in short, it is a kind of gambling. Verily, the com- merce in this empire enjoys the utmost degree of encouragement. Living in this country is exceedingly difficult, and to foreigners is impossible, every thing being very dear, so much so, that the cost of living like a poor man, is for one person a toman per day, and that simply on bread alone. To live comfortably it requires an expense of fifty tomans per day. The charges on their w^ork- manship are higher than the value of the origi- nal ; for instance, you give to a goldsmith ten drachms of gold to be made into a vessel, he w^ill charge you for making it alone thirty tomans, whereas you have not paid for the origi- nal gold more than this sum. Likewise, a tailor will charge, only for making a coat, five tomans while the cloth itself is not worth more than three. Thus all their charges are higher than the value of the original materials. Their dealings are in one word, that is, they THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 37 have one price. Whenever you go to a shop to buy something, the seller will tell you his price, either you must take it or leave it. If you should offer him any thing less, it will be considered as an insult to him. A part of their currency is in stamped papers, sealed and signed by Government ; they are as good as gold money. Thus a man may carry in his pocket 100,000 tomans; this is to save the trouble of carrying money about. These are called bank-notes, and are from ten tomans to a thousand. They are good in every part of the empire, and could be changed in any city of Europe, but in the East they do not pass, except in their Indian terri- tories, or unless some English commercial house should cash them. These notes render the Go- vernment a large income. When any thing happens that requires the Go- vernment to carry it on vdth money, and the people to support it, this is arranged in their Parhament, that is, in the House of Commons, which raises the money out of the taxes on lands, vessels, hbuses, horses, customs, posts, public places, cattle, &c. The duty on every tiling is regularly VOL. II. E 38 JOURNAL OF fixed, and commissioners are appointed to pur- chase what is necessary for Government. How- ever, it will be better explained hereafter. Their carts and carriages strike the observer very much. A large tree, which would require 500 men to carry it, may be easily transported to any dis- tance, on a cart drawn by two or four horses. They have also instructed their large dogs even to draw carriages quickly. They are fond of dogs, and take pains to teach them to become useful ; they make them so serviceable that sometimes they are sent on business. For instance, if a man wants something from a shop that is known to his dog, he wiU write a note to the shopkeeper, asking for what he may want, then he puts the note into a basket, and hangs it on the dog's neck, and gives him a sign. The dog will carry the message immediately, and return to the satisfaction of his master. Many other curious things are done by their dogs, not import- ant to be mentioned. They do not keep any useless animal; all that they keep must be of use. If any should be of no use, they will dismiss them. The English are very particular to raise THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 39 and cultivate the country, which they like should be famous in this respect. They seek very much after news, and every person, old and young, is acquainted with the Government, its regulations and arrangements. Every soul is at liberty to say what he thinks of Government, and propose what he approves. A man in tliis kingdom is not great by being of a noble family, or a descendant of so and so. The high are those that are superior in mind. Many times a learned private individual becomes a prime minister, and the son of the prime minister, if he is not high-minded, will be considered as a fool. When I say Govern- ment, I should state that they who control it are distinct from those who do the duties of it. One is the Privy Council, and the other the public Government. The Privy Coimcil is the king and his vizirs or ministers. The public, or general Government, are the whole people of this kingdom, from the king to the poorest. Every one has a right to vote. In fact, this is the Government, because the Commons have the pursue, and the voice in the whole affairs. As every person has the right of directing the affairs, therefore, all of them try to establish wliat is best 40 JOURNAL OF to them all. In this case, as all of them have the power to think and to direct, yet it is impossible to assemble the whole nation, to conduct the busi- ness of government. This being impossible, there- fore they established what is called a council or Parhament. This Parliament consists of three houses. First, the House of Commons, which consists of 650 men, elected by the nation, and of course what they say comes, as it were, from the mouth of the whole people. These members are some of the most learned and highest in mind among their countrymen. Every member will vote according to the wishes of those who send him. It is the duty of this body to look after the revenue of Government, how it comes, and to take care that not a halfpenny is spent in vain. The vizirs have the direction of the great affairs, they constitute the Privy Government ; however, I will explain this hereafter. The second house of Parhament is the House of Lords. Lords are peers, or like our khans. A peer is such, either by inheritance, or being created one by the king. Their house is between that of the Commons and that of the King. All Eng- THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 41 lisli peers have a right to sit in the house, but those of Scotland are only sixteen, and those of Ireland are also of a limited number. In short, their constitution consists of three divisions — first, the House of Commons ; second, the House of Lords, who are the pillars of the kingdom ; third, the king and his vizirs, w^ho have in their hands the actual direction of affairs. Every one of these three divisions has a separate department in the metropoHs. In fine, this Government, that is, the Parliament and ministers, assemble in the first month of the year. AU the agents of the nation, who form the Houses of Commons and Lords, wherever they may be, must come to Lon- don at the said time, ready to take their seats in Parliament. The king, wherever he may be, will come to the capital. The king on this day opens Parliament, an-ayed in all his majestic splendour and state, with the crown on liis head, escorted by his life-guards. Then he sits on the throne, embroidered with jewels, in the House of Parliament, where there will assemble all the vizirs, p'iers, agents, foreign ambassadors, and about 400 of the noble ladies, all of them seated £ 2 42 JOURNAL OF on splendid chairs, ready to receive their king. When every person is ready, then the king stands up, his face towards the assembly, and with per- fect eloquence, he makes a speech as follows : — " Thank God that my kingdom is in perfect happiness, and all the affairs both at home and abroad are in perfect order. All the Badishahs (kings and emperors) have sent to me ambassadors assuring me of their miion and friendship. The commerce of this empire is enjoying its highest prosperity, and all these benefits are through your wise direction of affairs during the last session. This year also I have to request you again to meet in the houses, and with your high skill and learning take all affairs and matters into consideration, and settle them as you think best. Should there be any misunderstanding in any part which may re- quu'e either war or peace, you will also thereupon take the proper measures to settle it according to the welfare of your beloved country, wdth all other matters necessary for the interests of the kingdom." Then they receive their instructions, the king leaves them, and they thereupon meet in Parliament every day from one o'clock in the afternoon till four 9 THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 43 hours after sunset, Sunday excepted, (for the Christians keep it holy.) All of them sit in Parlia- ment, and take all matters and affairs into conside- ration, and decide on all questions, and every thing important both at home and abroad, and when there is a difference of opinion there will arise great voice and vehement disputes. The Lords also meet in the same edifice, and the vizirs sit either in the House of Lords, or in that of the Commons, or in them both, as they must be elected out of the members of Parliament. Their meeting continues four months, after which, on a day appointed, the king comes to the House in the same imperial splendour and state, when all of them, as before-mentioned, (the ladies come only on these two days,) and gives another speech, thanking them for the suppKes of money which they have appro- priated to him, and to all the important objects of the kingdom, and praising them for their labour. Then he tells them that they have been a long time absent from their homes, and that now he wishes to prorogue the House, that they may go home, and please God they will enjoy all pleasure, and may their lives be prolonged to meet again. 44 JOURNAL OF Then the kmg departs, and Parliament closes, and the presidents will keep the keys. Thus every member goes to liis pleasure. Then all the busi- ness will be left to the management of the minis- ters who mil direct the affairs, even if the com- mons are not present ; yet, whenever any thing very important happens which would require the sentiments of the people, then the king will call Parliament to meet, but this does not happen often. This that is already mentioned is the idea of Parliament, yet I think on this point, it will be desirable to give distinct details of the powers be- longing to each of the three Houses. I have abeady mentioned that the members go every night to the House, to see and decide on all subjects great and small. First, every thing begins in the council of minis- ters, then one of them will present the case before the House of Commons. If the House should reject it, it will not pass. But if some should object to it, and others approve it, then each party present will give the advantages and disadvantages of the measure. After much discussion then they divide, the larger party have the power, and THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 46 thereupon the bill, or whatever the case maybe, will pass. And if both should be equal in number the party that have the ministers will be the stronger. After it passes the House of Commons, then it is carried to the House of Lords, and the peers will examine the case or bill. They can either reject it, or approve of it. But if they reject it, then they of course will be against the public ; however, if they should send it back to the House of Commons, yet they will return it again to the House of Lords, with strong majority, showing that the bill has passed the House of Commons, and must pass in the House of Lords. Then the vizirs in the House of Lords, who are always supported by the Commons, being of their party and policy, will endeavour to carry through the bill in the upper House. If the Lords should still be against it, then they will all give their proofs, and show reasons and explanation to their objection. At last they will divide, and the majority will be victorious. If the majority should be against it, then it will be carried out of the House of Commons, and all the ministers will meet in Parliament, and carry through the bill, having the strong majority 46 JOURNAL OF of the Commons on their side. But no bill is passed without much consideration and discussion, and unless the Lords should be satisfied in the plan of the case they will never agree to it. When they divide, the result is given by the presidents of the two Houses. Wlien the bill passes the two Houses, then it is carried to the presence of the king, by the prime minister saying, that the Government in council have thought best to estabhsh this act, or law, or whatever it may be. The king has the power to refuse it ; but as by doing so it will be quite against the nation, therefore whether he likes it or not, he will sign it ; then it is a complete law, and it will be sent to the minister whom it may concern to be directed by it. It has been already mentioned that the revenue of the treasury is about one hundred and twenty kerrors, and that during the time of war it is much more. Of the whole of this the vizirs must pre- sent every year a correct account to the House of Commons, even to a penny, with satisfactory explanation, how and for what these kerrors have been spent. If the expenses that were made should be agreeable to the Commons, well and THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 47 good, if not, the vizirs must stand tlie consequence, and will be obliged to prepare more satisfactory proofs in the next session, and on the whole, it is impossible that a halfpenny should be spent with- out utility. The treasury has a vizir on purpose, whose duty it is to receive in, and to present the accounts at the proper time. These accounts must also be regularly published in the newspapers, that every soul in the empire may know how the money was spent, and every person that has given ten tomans of the revenue, in case he should see any thing wrong in its expense, has a right to rise up in the House of Commons, and seize the vizir by the collar, saying, "What have you done with my money ?" But as there will be always some ex- penses which cannot be published, for this they raise a sum, called the secret fund, which is placed at the disposal of the ministers, who are the faith- ful trustees of the nation. The six hundred and fifty members of the House of Commons are the agents of the nation : they are also regularly elected by the people in majority, g^nd are among the most learned and most respectable. They have no salary for their labour. 48 JOURNAL OF they only work for the love of their country and the kingdom, and always endeavour to promote the welfare of the nation in general ; and their office is also of high honour. As to the vizirs or ministers, they are not of a limited number, they are such a number as can perform all the duties of Government, (in fact, they are the Government.) First is the prime minister, who is connected on all affairs referring both to home and abroad ; he is the second person after the king, and the head of Government, and in rank he is higher than any of the nobility. Second is the vizir who directs the affairs of the Home department. Third is the vizir of Foreign affairs, in whose hands are the appointment of ambassadors, consuls, and all affairs in foreign kingdoms. In his hands are also all the affairs of all the diplomatic officers that are sent to this court. All British diplomatic agents must keep up their correspondence vdth him, from whom also they receive their instructions. In his office he is perfect master. Fourth is the vizir of the Colonies, whose office is a very high one, and very important. Fifth is the vizir of the Royal THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 49 Navy, in whose hands is all that concerns the English forces in the seas, also the appointments and degradation of captains, and all naval officers. Sixth, the vizir to the Treasury, who receives all the revenue of Government and pays it out, and at the end of the year presents the account to Parliament. Seventh, the vizir of the East Indies. Although all the affairs of the East Indies are in the hands of the Company, and Government has nothing to do with it, yet, as the principal appointments and important affairs have to come from the Crown, for this reason, there is a mini- ster, and without his advice and sanction nothing can be settled by the Company. Eighth, the vizir of infantry soldiers, in whose hands are all appointments of generals, colonels, captains, and all officers of rank. Ninth, the minister of caval- ry, in whose hands are all their affairs. Tenth, the minister of the artillery, who has also the same power in his department. Eleventh, is the vizir who is called the Postmaster-general. He has the direction of all the mails, posts, roads, carnages^ &c. The twelfth is the vizir who is called Lord Chancellor ; he is very great, and the VOL. II. F 50 JOURNAL OF head of Parliament, and the head of the judges ; his office is a most noble, honourable one. In Parlia- ment he sits even above the prime minister, and his speech is regarded more than any other. All of these vizirs have vice-vizirs, (under-secretaries of state,) who have thousands of persons about them who carry on the work by the minister's orders. Although every one of these vizirs is master of his own department, yet they do not drink water without the advice of each other, they do nothing without consulting each other. The administration consists of two parties. The one is named whig, the other tory. The difference between these two parties is political, that is, every one has a different opinion on pohcy. Their seats in the Vazaraship, or administration, depend on the House of Commons, that is, if the majority of the House are tories, then the mini- sters also are tories ; and if they be whigs, then the ministers are whigs. They cannot both be in office at the same time. Administration must be of one party alone. It happens sometimes that they are changed, one goes out, and the other comes in. Sometimes the father is a whig, and THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 51 his son a tory, and two brothers may also be one a tory, and the other a wliig. The difference be- tween these two parties is as follows : The tories in ancient days have always been in office, and thereby they have established to them- selves some privileges by which every one is now a possessor of milHons of money. As to their policy and their views, they say this : " Three hmidred years ago, we were wild people, and our kingdom then was worse and lower than any other. But through mind, wisdom, and learn- ing, which we have now, we have brought our kingdom to its present height of honour ; and as our empire grew larger by our management, why should we now reform and give up our policy which has done all this good?" This being the case, they say they vdll not give up their views. As to the whigs, they say this : "We know that it is more prudent to go accord- ing to the changes of time and circumstances ; moreover, by the old pohcy, only a few were profited, and as our government is a general one, therefore we must obser\^e that which is best for the whole nation, and that all should be profited, 52 JOURNAL OF and every person should enjoy the same privileges. It will never do that some shovdd grow rich beyond measure, and others should be left poor. The policy of the whigs is for the advantage of the public in general, and they are most powerful in the House of Commons. Also the present ad- ministration is formed of whigs. But there are also a good number of tories in Parliament, who always dispute with the opposite party : in fact, each party uses its utmost power, by proofs and arguments, to establish its own new. Thus they, (the two parties,) have always great discus- sions. There is also in this kingdom another foundation, which is of invaluable importance and exceeding advantage, that is, what they call news- papers. These papers are written by some very clever editors and authors, who are veiy learned, and poets. They enjoy the confidence of the people. They have large establishments, fur- nished with every convenience, such as types and presses, and everj^ necessary material. They employ thousands of individuals in these un- dertakings. Some of them are appointed to go about the different parts of the city, to leani all THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 5S the news concerning every thing that is going on, of life, death, birth, war, quarrels, arrivals, departures, sales, purchases, failures, friendships, disputes, and, in a word, all kinds of information, which they re- late daily to the editors. Others go about the king, queen, princes, vizirs, and, in an astonishing manner, they learn what is going on, in detail, and give in an account of it. Likewise some are sent to the different departments of the vizirs, such as the Vizir of Foreign Affairs, who is always visited by foreign ambassadors, poUtical agents, and consuls, and receives news from all parts of the world. Thus the information is collected, and reported in the printing-office. Besides all tliis, they have agents in every place abroad, to inform them of all foreign news and accidents. There are also some of the best and quickest writers, whose business it is to go every night to Parhament, and write down every breath that comes out from the mouth of each member, and this is perpetually sent to the printing-office. Perhaps before the representative has finished his speech, half of it is already published and given to the public to read. In this mamicr they collect all the news, F 2 54 JOURNAL OF and publish it on lai'ge sheets of paper, every thing in its detail. There are printed myriads of these papers daily, during the whole year long. Thus every soul in the kingdom is informed of the proceedings of the Government, and what is their intention, what good they are doing for the people, and how the House of Commons is getting on, and, in fact, whether every thing is right. Be- sides, they have all the particulars of foreign coimtries. From these establishments the trea- sury derives an income of some thousand tomans annually. There is another department in this kingdom, of great usefulness to the public, which they call the Post ; that is, an establishment for the convey- ance and despatch of letters. This is arranged in the following maimer: — in every direction about the town there are boxes, where letters may be put in. Every person that may want to send a letter to any part of the kingdom, or abroad, has only to address his letter regularly, as before- mentioned, and may send it to be put in these boxes. People on purpose are appointed to go out, morning and evening, with leather bags in 9 THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 55 their hands, and bells, and gather in the let- ters. All the letters are brought to the large department of the Post-office, where the lord vizir resides, and also some thousands of persons are engaged in carrying on this affair, to separate the letters for different parts and put them all in order. Afterwards they put each mail in a separate bag, and despatch them in fast coaches for their respective places. The best horses and coaches are pro\'ided for this important business. When the mail approaches a to\\Ti, the postman blows his trumpet, so that the post agent, on hearing the soimd, will be ready to receive the bag of letters belonging to that place. As to the postage, it is fixed by Government. The same is true when the mail returns to London, with the answers to what has been sent. Thus every morning and evening 500 coaches leave London with letters to all parts of the world. If the post- age be paid, it will be written on the letter *' Post Paid," if not, on its delivery it must be paid. Through this excellent facihty, the letters in this country are forwarded. The larger the letter, the more it pays. The revenue to the treasury on 5& JOURNAL OF this establishment is six kerrors, while the advan- tage to the people is very great. Another of their excellent arrangements, and which attracts much notice, are their lights during the night, which make the day and night to be nearly the same. In all their cities, towns, villages, hamlets, mountains, hills, plains, bazaars, and every street, light at night is just as it is in the day-time. This is effected by means of their conducting the Ught through pipes, as if it were a Hquid, or water. This they call gas, or what we may call spirit of coals. It is produced as follows : — A few miles distance from every town there are placed some pots or kettles of iron, on high situations, every one like a room of iron, founded on arches of iron. They put every day in them some thousands of tons of the mineral coals, which they burn until the coals become dissolved like a black liquid. To every pot there is a pipe of iron, and all are connected together with one large pipe, through which all the gas runs into a cistern of iron in the shape of a vat. On THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 57 the top of this cistern there is a tower of iron, in the form of a trumpet; this is to prevent any accidents in the pipes, in case they should be overfilled ^vith gas. To tliis large deep vat there is a very large pipe of iron, six pikes in circum- ference, leading out to another place near the town, where it is joined to several other pipes of iron, through which the gas is conducted to every house and street. Myriads of houses, of fifty or a hundred rooms each, receive this light from one pipe, to the head of which there is an instrument in the shape of a lion's head, through which the gas runs ; so that a house may be either lighted or darkened by turning the said instrimient. In truth, this gas lights better than any other liquid. In this same manner all the lights through the kingdom, after sun-set, are lighted, and by day- break they are put out. Thus, without trouble, a man may have any quantity of light in his house, by paying so much for each light to the Company, who will convey gas through pipes to his house, and fix the light for him. Most of the people in this country use it ; all their public- houses, churches, shops, and workhouses have 58 JOURNAL OF their lights of this gas, without the least trouble of oil, except some of the great people use fine spermaceti candles in their drawing-rooms. Verily, it is a wonderful tiling, and a very wise invention ! Some kerrors of revenue from this go every year to the treasury, and to the country its mines of coals are more precious than one of gold, because through them they carry on their wonderful and most valuable machines of steam. There is another object which displays the ability and industry of this nation. They cut, out of the river Thames and other rivers, some large canals, to bring the water to difierent parts of the country; this is to save them the expense of carrying their heavy goods throughout the country. They have rafts of planks on these canals, which they load with goods to the weight of 10,000 mauns, and the raft is drawn by a single horse : from this may be learnt their income, when one horse is made to draw the weight of 10,000 mauns. Indeed, all their afiairs are measured by wise calculation. They divide their time, both day and night, in regular hours of business, and they are exact to a minute. They are very parti- THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 59 cular in their time, which they value very highly. When a person has an engagement or an appoint- ment at such an hour, either on business, a dinner- party, or whatever it may be, the person always puts into his mind the fear of not being in time ; therefore, he is always on the alert to be at the exact moment. For this purpose, they have, on the outsides of all their churches, at the four sides, fine clocks, which strike every hour, exact to a second, and the striking of the clocks may be heard four miles distant. The clocks that are thus fixed on the walls of the churches and other edifices in London, may be more than 500,000. For the night-time, they have, on the minarets of their churches, clocks, behind which are placed lanterns that give a powerful light, which enables every person to see the fingers of the clocks from one mile distance, and th6y look very handsome, like full moons. The Franks count time from noon to midnight, quite contrary to the Oriental custom, from smi-set to sun-rise. It is likely that their account is more correct, because there is always a difference and change in the length of day and night, but mid-day and mid- 60 JOURNAL OF night can have no changes. However, as they know best in this science, it would be better to follow their time. They have also some other regulations and customs, which I must not omit to mention, as they may furnish some useful information. One of them is, several thousand pubhc-houses, for en- tertaining foreigners and travellers, and every body. The first class of these houses are called, in the Frank language, " Hotels," wliich resemble the Persian caravansaries, yet the cost of each building simply, must have been 200,000 tomans, and the furniture is worth much more. All the plate for the table, and other vessels, are of gold and silver, and whatever you may think of, you will find in these establishments. It is not the custom of this country to receive any body in their families, not even a friend nor a brother, therefore it is necessary to lodge in an hotel, and all travellers in this country, even the natives themselves, go to these public- houses. For this reason they have built such splendid houses, capable of entertaining all kings, princes, vizirs, nobles, and gentlemen, who -visit THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 61 this kingdom, and take up their residence in them. In every hotel there will be more than 200 servants, male and female, who are ready at any moment to receive orders, both day and night. They serve with all their hearts, and are always very attentive to the guests, like mothers or brothers. Each of these establishments contains more than 100 rooms, and every room is furnished with all things, as sofas, bedsteads, table for vn'iting, a fire-place, Sec. ; in fact, every thing is most splendid and comfortable. As to the ser- vants, they have separate places in the house, where they attend to its duties. In every one of these rooms, there is a long fine silk cord, which is joined to a bell below. All the rooms, and Likewise the bells, are numbered, so when you touch the cord, of course the bell rings, and the servant immediately looks to the number upon it, and in an instant he will be with the gentleman. I, on purpose, did sometimes touch the bell at midnight, and scarcely had I touched it, when a man or woman came up, and whatever I ordered, it was biQught immediately. In short, there is no- thing wanting in them, they are even better than your VOL. II. G 62 JOURNAL OF own homes. The servants get up very early in the morning, and sweep every part in the house ; the dirt is immediately carried away, and they make the house as clean as a looking-glass. The servants themselves are very clean, and particularly so when they wait at the tahle. There are also in these establishments some washing-women, who wash and iron so well, that the clothes, after being washed and ironed, look as if they had just come out from the tailor's. All the people in this kingdom are clad alike, and there is no distinction in dress. Such persons of rank as vizirs and other officers, put on their uniforms when they go to the King's levee, but at other times they dress just like other peo- ple. It is not even the custom here, to take ser- vants with them, except one behind the carriage, whose place is always to be there. Vizirs, nobles, and other great personages go out about the streets alone, and sometimes purchase what they may fancy ; even members of the royal family do so, and sometimes the King in person goes out dressed like other people: when he does so no- body pays him the honour due to him as King. THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 63 He is only respected as such when he goes out in his state. The Kings here can only marry a member from the same royal family, and not from any foreign ; as it is considered unlawful, because he is the father of his subjects. Likewise a royal princess is never married to any person but to a royal prince, and this rule is kept by all the sovereigns of the Franks. In fine, all this comes from the liberty which they enjoy: this liberty is carried to a greater extent in France, and to its utmost point in America. In that part of the world, they advance daily in every thing, and notliing is made in Europe, wliich they do not also make in America. Although most of the people of America migrated from Europe, yet at pre- sent they enjoy such a liberty that they are inde- pendent in every thing. Their Government is also a republic, and in all probability they will be, before a long time, stronger than any other power. There are some possessions in America in the hands of England, France, Russia, and Spain, but it is supposed that these also will in time be inde- pendent. In short, wherever liberty and justice prevail, there civilization advances, the population 64 JOURNAL OF increases, and the arts flourish. For, London, the most noble, before justice and liberty were enjoyed in it, was inhabited by men so wild that they lived under the shadow of the trees, and were clothed in animals' skins ; whereas now they have houses as palaces surrounded by balustrades of iron most elegantly wrought, of the value of 10,000 tomans. The people are handsomely dressed, enjoying all the pleasures of life. Whence comes all tliis ? From justice, and righteousness, and mutual love. This indeed proves what the holy mouth pronounced :* " The kingdom will endure though infidelity be in it, but it vnll perish if there be oppression." In fine, wherever you may fix your eye you will see that the gracef of this world is to them complete ; with abundance of food, clothing, and every kind of luxury ; in short, nothing is withheld from them. Their houses are like the palaces of heaven, their houris resemble those of Paradise. Water does not run in the streets in fountains as in the East, but in every place they have in their houses, water which is * Mohammed. + That is, happiness. THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 65 brought through pipes, and drawn up to the fifth story by machines, so that by only touching the cock, they have as much water as they may want for use. By a similar contrivance they can put out fires, that often take place, in consequence of their houses being built of fine wood. In none of their houses do you see any fly, or muskito, or any other noxious insects. All their shops are magni- ficently built of marble, beautifully adorned with large glass windows, from which you can see all the goods inside with their prices affixed. Also shops and houses vs'hich may be rented, have in their windows a paper largely printed, thus : " This is to be let," with the price that is demanded ; likewise, if it is to be sold. All business is thus carried on with perfect facility, without a broker or a porter. In the same manner a person can tell whether the master of the house is dead or alive, because they have large planks painted with black, which they fix against the wall of the house for a mourning sign which continues a year. A Kttle time ago, they invented a wonderful art for making things keep out the water. The material for doing so is a kind of gum, which was first used to G 2 66 JOURNAL OF remove any thing from paper, even the marks of ink or any other article are taken off by it. This gum for a long time w&s used for this purpose only, as it is a soKd substance. The learned among the English endeavoured to render this gum of greater use. About ten years ago, a painter who had his paints and some of this gum, accidentally dissolved by being exposed to the sun, took the gum, which had become like wax, and rubbed it on a piece of cloth wliich he found could not be penetrated by water: he then inflated the cloth, and found that even air could not get through it. By this he learnt that he could make some most profitable use of the gum. First he applied to Govern- ment, from whom he received a good present, of some thousand tomans, and a patent that he alone might enjoy the privilege of this art five years. Then he made several kinds of dresses rubbed with this gum, and sold them himself. Multitudes of people bought of him, and they were exported by wholesale to foreign countries. By this he made an extraordinary fortune. After the five years were over, he sold his secret to a company for 30,000 tomans. They make of it THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 67 cloaks and other things, through which water does not penetrate, and let it rain for a whole year the cloak would not even become damp. In the same manner they make beds and pillows, which you may put in your pocket, and when you want them, you have only to inflate them, and you are fur- nished with a very comfortable bed as soft as if it were made of feathers. By the same art they make girdles, called life-preservers, for the sea: let all the hurricanes, storms and waves be as strong as they may, a person having this on, will never sink under the water, unless he die through hunger or thirst. In short, they make by this art only so many useful articles, that if I were to mention them all I must write volumes ; the prices though are very dear. The people of this country do not regard, neither believe the khimira or alchemy,* but their doctors and wise men are always occupied in studying chemistry, by which they make many inventions that are more pro- fitable than the imagined alchemy. After they * The art of changing base metals into gold. Unfortunately many people in the East believe this art, and accordingly they spend their fortunes and become poor. (See Hichardsou's Diet, second edition.) 68 JOURNAL OF finish their business in the day, they go to enjoy their pleasure with most commodious tranquillity. Every man in his house, rich or poor, great or small, in himself is a king. No one can interfere in another's concerns. All kinds of comforts and pleasure are prepared at any hour ; you have need to have money, then you may obtain any thing you may want, and have in an instant every thing you like of any article from foreign coun- tries, &c. &c. &c. The marriages in this country are managed as follows : Young men must first receive complete education in mathematics and other branches of useful learning. Some, however, receive only a com- mercial education, so that they may be able to keep houses and provide for a family, nor do they till then seek for a suitable wife. The young females receive also a suitable education. They are taught to read and write, modern languages, music, draw- ing. They do not usually marry under twenty years of age. Their connexion commences as follows : most of the young persons who are bachelors go out to parks, gardens, and other places of pleasure, to smell the fresh air. The young THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 69 damsels have no veil on, so that the young men find no impediment to being introduced to them and forming their acquaintance. Wlien a young man has been captivated by the object of his afiections, and has been acquainted with her for some time, and learnt her manners and qualifications, he writes to the young love, expressing his attachment to her, and begs her to inform him of her inclinations. Then if she should not happen to be of the same sentiments she will not answer his letter. This will give him to understand his misfortune. But if fortunately she should be of the same feelings, she \vill then favour him with a lovely answer in writing, assuring him that he is accepted, leaving it for subsequent intercourse to fix the time and place of their marriage. At the appointed time, they meet in the church, present themselves to their kassis,* and ask him to marry them. The kassis then will perform the ceremony of marriage, accord- ing to their custom. The bridegroom takes the hand of his bride and conducts her to the carriage. They visit the country, and remain absent for some • This name is given in the Koran to Christian ministers. 70 JOURNAL OF time from their parents and friends. During their tour they go from place to place, and from one garden to anotlier, enjoying the company of each other. There are places fitted up on purpose for receiving such guests. Sometimes they go abroad and remain for a year and more, after which they return home. Their parents and friends then com- pHment both of them on their marriage and safe arrival. When the young lady gets married, she takes the name of her husband, being addressed as Mrs. so and so, whereas when she was single she was called after the name of her family, addressed as Miss so and so. In Europe, they have two names, one of the family, and the other that of the person. For instance, Fraser, is a name of a family, in wliich there may be two hundred souls, all of whom are called Fraser, both ladies and gentlemen. Yet to distinguish between these Frasers, they have what they call Christian names, such as George, John, William, James, Anne, Eliza, &c. Thus, a man is called Mr. George Fraser, and lais wife, Mrs. G. Fraser, and his daughter Miss Anne Fraser, &c. It is of the highest consequence with the Eng- THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 71 lish, that respect should be paid to the fair sex. The poorest female is higher than a king. They consider it as an important duty to respect the ladies. Princes, dukes, vizirs, lords, will stand be- fore them, offering the utmost honour and respect ; every one will endeavour to exceed the other by serving and pleasing the lady. Divorce, in their law, is an exceedingly difficult thing, and never takes place, except in cases of adultery, wliich must be legally proved before divorce can take place. But when such a thing happens, the di- vorced will lose their standing in respectable so- ciety, neither will they be any longer invited to any party, let their rank be what it may ; their friends will abandon them, and their enemies will take every opportunity to speak against them. Thus far I have endeavoured, from the inform- ation I have obtained during my residence here, to give my reader a brief statement of the customs and manners of this highly-favoured country. To-day, about sunset, we went to the enter- tainment of the Honourable Lady H . The house is a fine edifice, and the party was very pleasant. Here we saw a blind man, who played 72 JOURNAL OF wonderfully on a musical instrument, and he so perfectly imitated the voices of all kinds of birds and animals, that you could scarcely tell the difference between the imitator and the imitated ; in truth, it was a complete art. Here we spent a few pleasant hours, conversing with the friends whom we met, and returned to our residence. Thursday the 8th, we went to the house of Colonel Taylor, now a resident at Bagdad, to see his brother. Here we saw four children of the Colonel's. His mother is a lady about eighty years of age, and when I saw her, she was weep- ing at the absence of her son. She told me, " My son, Colonel Taylor, was twelve years old when he went to Hindostan, and I have not seen him since ; and now his children, who have been a long time with me, are going to leave me, for which I am exceedingly sorry." I asked her the reason why these young ladies and the sons had been so long absent from their parents. She repKed, that it is the custom of the Franks when they are abroad, at whatever distance they may be, always to send their children, when they are very young, to London, or some other city in 4 THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 73 Europe, to receive their education, as it is im- possible to have them brought up in foreign countries. However, the Taylor's family were exceedingly hospitable, and very agreeable and friendly. Afterwards we went to the palace of H. R. H. the Duke of Sussex, a brother of the Shah, and the head of the Freemasons. His palace is a splendid edifice. When we came there, the royal duke was not at home, but we were ad- mitted, and shown into his library, where we saw innumerable books of all descriptions. We asked whether there were in this library any Persian or Arabic books ; upon which they conducted us to another room, the sides of which were lined to the roof with Oriental books, all celebrated co- pies of Persian works. In fact, not one book of any importance was wanting. We amused ourselves a little time ^vith these books, till his Royal Highness came, who was exceedingly kind and friendly. We spent some time, conversing on difierent topics, and then took leave, and de- parted to the house of a celebrated astronomer of this country. Here we observed a very extensive apparatus, VOL. 11. H 74 JOURNAL OF embracing a great variety of astronomical and philosophical instruments for the observation of the planets, the examination of which completely as- tonished and overpowered us. He has several rooms, built in a beautiful garden, adorned with elegant flowers, for the purpose of making astro- nomical observations. There were some most wonderful telescopes, fixed on wheels, which turn in any direction that is desired. These are put, when necessary, on the terrace, and through them one may look at every planet in the heavens, and see whatever is wished. One of these wonderful telescopes was nearly twelve draas long, and about one draa and a half in circumference, fixed on a wheel. Tliis telescope magnifies the planet 6000 times. They show in the day-time every planet or star near the sun. One of the glasses which is attached to the head of this telescope is worth 15,000 tomans. We remarked that glass in this country is not so valuable; how then could the price of this glass be so enormous ? He replied, that this glass must be perfectly pure and trans- parent, otherwise it would not answer the pur- pose ; and such a glass is very difiicult to be made : tliis makes it so valuable. The astrono- THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 75 mical and pliilosophical instruments that we saw here were beyond number. But as the day was rainy, we were not able to see any thing in the heavens, and returned to our residence with the intention of visiting it again. On tliis day, after sunset, it being fine wea- ther, we went to the same house again. Saturn at this time appeared in the west, to which we directed the telescope. It appeared to be inclosed with a beautiful ring, but it passed so rapidly that we were obliged to turn the telescope con- tinually, in order to keep it in view. We saw two of its moons, which appeared to be in the telescope. After we had had a full sight of this planet, the telescope was directed towards the moon, which looked so large and brilliant that you might say she appeared at the entrance of the telescope. We observed something like ca-saties in her, surrounded by black rings ; also in these cavities there appeared some dark spots, and at one of her horns we saw a dark line, which appeared to be the breadth of a finger. We asked the pliilosqpher what all these were ? He replied, " It has been satisfactorily ascertained that these 76 JOURNAL OF cavities are very large mountains, upon wliich the sun shines, and the black lines are valleys, where the sun does not shine. The black spots which you observed are volcanic mountains, which continually emit smoke. The black rings at one end of the moon are two great mountains, which are opposite each other. Between them there is a very large valley, where the sun does not shine, which produces the black rings." As it became cloudy, we were not able to see any thing else. Then we asked him the distance between this world and the moon. He then conducted us to another very large room, where there was a large telescope, to which were fixed some instruments, about ten yards long. On this telescope were many figures. The astronomer said that each of these figures expressed the distance of five miles, and by certain calculations it is ascertained that the distance from our earth to the moon is 240,000 miles ; it is also ascertained that the moon has no water or air; nevertheless, it is beheved that it is inhabited. " We have observed," said he, " in all the planets water and air, especially in Jupiter. I THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 77 But in the moon and sun there is neither." In fine, they have arrived at these conclusions from their accurate observations. They have also as- certained that each of the planets is, like the terrestrial globe, inhabited, and that besides the known seven planets there are four others, and that the earth itself is a planet, and turns upon its axis like the others. As to the sun, they believe it to be fixed, and that the seven planets are per- petually revolving around it in their orbits ; they approach and recede from each other. Some of the planets have moons; others have not. This world has one moon ; Mercury, being so near to the sun, they have not discovered any belonging to it. Lovely Venus has no moon, and Mars has none. Jupiter has four moons, and Saturn, being very far from the sun, has seven moons, and the other four small planets have no moons. All these planets, with this earth, turn round the sun, and the sun itself is fixed. Each of the other fixed stars that we see is of itself a sun, and has its planets, just Hke the nine planets which are connected with this world. On ac- count of their immense distance, they cannot be H 2 78 JOURNAL OF seen by the naked eye, but they can be discovered by the telescope, through which they may be seen revolving like our planetary system. It still re- maining cloudy, we could not see any thing, yet as there were not many clouds towards the west, the astronomer said that after four minutes there would appear in that direction a fixed star, which is in itself a sun, and has no moon, and is called Mahirkles. Exactly when the four minutes passed, he fixed the telescope towards it, when we did not see any thing else but that star, which had a most powerful brilliancy. Afterwards we saw ano- ther small star, very brilliant. The astronomer said that the little brilliant star is a planet, and that every hour during the night it revolves round the large one ; just as the earth turns round its sun : that every one of the fixed stars is a sun, and has planets that turn round it, and that every planet is thickly inhabited by beings like those of tliis world, and that, without doubt, the earth, to the inhabitants of these planets, is like a star. Blessed be the Creator, and praise be to the high ruler of these vast dominions ! Afterwards the astrono- mer invited us to his house, where we saw a very THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 79 extensive apparatus, so wonderful that it dazzled our eyes and minds. Then he presented to us some refreshments. In the meantime, one of his pupils came into the room, saying to him, "The clouds in that part of the heavens which you wished to examine have passed away." He conducted us to the large telescope, saying that what we were going to see was more splendid and attractive than any other part of the heavens. We immediately fixed our eyes to the telescope, beholding that part which was to the north-east. We saw in one place most brilliant stars, very near to each other ; then we looked again, praise be to God ! we beheld myriads, thousands of myriads of stars, most bril- liant, every one of which is a sun ; round these there were others of different colours, without number. Now we lost our senses, and it is impossible to describe this scene. Would that all our friends could come and enjoy these sights ! In truth, we were highly satisfied with our most delightful visit. Now, it becoming very late, we bade our host good-bye, and returned to our residence. Friday the 9th, we visited the East India 80 JOURNAL OF Company's house. Sir John Carnac, the chair- man this year, having previously called upon us, and also having met us at many parties, we paid him a visit. It is a very large lofty edifice, which is so splendidly furnished as to dazzle the eye ; the riches of this Company are immense. The word "Company" means a body of men, joined together for mutual advantage. So the Company of the East Indies began originally as follows : a body of nobles and rich men of Great Britain, 150 years since, formed a company to trade in Hindostan. After they became well acquainted with every thing in that empire, they, through the sanction and power of the government, took possession of India, on the condition that the civil affairs of the country should be in their hands, and thus this Company became complete masters of that empire, and secured the interests derived therefrom to their descendants. The number of persons forming this Company maybe about 10,000. All the income of India goes through their hands. They appoint and remove their officers, and the Government at home does not interfere in their affairs, except that one of the twelve vizirs has THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 81 charge of all the affairs of India^ without whose advice or presence they do nothing. Sir John Hobhouse at present fills this oiBce. This Com- pany is called the Indian Government. The revenue of the treasury of India is seventy-five kerrors, out of which they pay their expenses. The army in India is 300,000, besides forty pieces of artillery, the cost of which is all defrayed by the Company. The ministers to Persia are ap- pointed by the Company, except the present ambassador, who was nominated by the king; likewise the residents at Bushire, Bassora, and Bagdad are sent out by the Company. But out of the 10,000 men who compose this Company, there are twenty-four members elected, who di- rect all its important affairs. These are called Directors, and reside in London. Out of these twenty-four there is one who is their head for one year, and another, who is called the Vice, or Deputy Chairman, who becomes head the next year. Although these two change annually, yet they still remain members of the twenty-four, and obtain high honour, if they have advantage- ously promoted the interest of the Company. 82 JOURNAL OF By this wise management, the affairs of India every year become more powerful, and subject to better order. Each of these Directors has his own house, yet all of them meet daily in this large government-house. This edifice must have cost millions of money. In it we observed most curious and valuable arti- cles from all parts of the world. If I were to mention minutely one twenty-fourth part of what I saw, I should have to write volumes. The chairman conducted us to every room, and showed us all that is to be seen. In one of the large rooms, we saw all kinds of strange and curious quadi'upeds from the East Indies and Western Islands, that is, their skins, which were so elegantly stuffed that they appeared to be alive. In another room, we saw all kinds of birds from the East Indies and Asiatic Islands, which had a very interesting appearance ; and in other rooms we were shown all sorts of arms from the East, and so many other things, that our eyes were wearied in beholding them. Afterwards they conducted us to their library, which contains 12,000 volumes, of all imaginable works, many of which are most beau- THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 83 tiful Persian manuscripts of the best authors and writers, such indeed as we had never seen in the library of the Badishah of Persia. We observed some of the Word of God, written by the most celebrated Meerza Ahmed, and Aga Kassim, and other celebrated writers. One of these Korans is the most beautifully written in the world, the eyes of days and turnings of nights have not seen such a book ; in its margin is the holy interpre- tation most wonderfully written. Afterwards they showed us into another room, where we saw the portraits of the Badishah of Persia, with aU the Royal Princes, all dressed in their royal robes, hunting in the presence of the Shah. All the names of the Princes are written on the portraits in Persian, and the pardoned Kassim Khan appears before the Shah, with a dag- ger in his hand killing a gazelle. In truth, these likenesses are so beautifully drawn that you hardly can tell the difference between these portraits and their originals. Our own likenesses are also in the same place. Afterwards they showed us the presents and the kind offerings of the pardoned Badishah to the English ambassa- 84 JOURNAL OF dors and other visitors, and also those that he sent to the Company with some of his works. In fact, the said presents are such as to reflect the high- est honour upon such an Emperor. Thank God we did not feel ashamed of them. They said to us, that the majestic state of the Badishah of Per- sia is more splendid than that of any other king. After we had seen all these, we were conducted to another room and took some refreshments, and then returned to our residence. In the evening, we went to Lady , where we enjoyed a delight- ful visit. Saturday the 10th, two hours before sunset, we went to dine with the directors in a large lofty house. It was so splendidly furnished that we had not seen its hke before. All nobles, vizirs, and several of the foreign Royal Princes were present at this noble assemblage. There were in all 400 persons at the table, which was loaded with all sorts of dishes of sweetmeats and fruits. Perhaps the expense of this entertainment was about 10,000 tomans. This dinner was given in honour of Lord Elphinstone, who had just been appointed Governor of Madras. It was given in conse- THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 85 quence of his contemplated departure. And all the pillars of Government were present to receive his pledge of honour to promote the interest of Government, in the country to which he was going. Some of the distinguished personages rose from the table, and made speeches expressing the confi- dence which Government reposed in his Lordship, and he gave a speech expressing his thanks and assurances that he would promote the interest of India to the utmost of his power. In short, so noble an assemblage and so splendid a display we never had seen before. We were very happy to meet Lord Elphinstone, having previously made his acquaintance. While we were sitting at dinner, my brother Wali was suddenly seized with a terrible choKc, and was obhged to leave the table and go home. Mr. Money, a friend of our's, was imme- diately called to see him, and remained with him almost all the night. Wali was ill for five days, but thank God, at last he recovered. After din- ner we had some conversation with our friends, and returned home. Sunday the 11th, and Monday the 12th, during both days we received some visits from the nobility, VOL. II. I 86 JOURNAL OF and in the evening we attended very pleasant par- ties, in delightful gardens abounding with pure water, and excellent air. Tuesday the 13th, we went out of town to an entertainment of Sir Gore Ouseley. It is the custom of the nobles and great men of this king- dom to have country houses or seats. These seats are splendidly furnished and delightfully situated. The winter and the spring they spend there with their families, all the time enjoying the comforts of Hfe. Sir Gore Ouseley bought this seat four years ago, for 150,000 pounds sterhng, eqvial to 300,000 tomans of Persia, besides expending enormous sums in making improvements. He has erected most splendid buildings upon it, and made it a complete paradise. The furniture of his mansion is of silver and gold. In short, here there is every thing that the eye and the heart can wish of the pleasures of life. His library is a capital one, and contains many Persian and Arabic books, that the Shah does not possess. Some of them were quite new to us. He has bought oriental books to the amount of 30,000 tomans. We were indeed exceedingly pleased with our THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 87 visit to these good friends and this delightful place. About sunset we returned to our resi- dence. "Wednesday the 14th, we received intelligence from Government that our affairs were nearly settled, and that our departure from London would not be long delayed. Thursday the 15th, news came from abroad that the Tigris, one of the two steamers on the Euplirates, had sunk in a great storm, and that twenty persons on board had been lost. In the evening we were invited to visit the honom'able Lady E . It was a noble and delightful party. Saturday the 17th, about Asser,* we entered our carriage to take a drive in the parks and the gardens. In fact, the God of all has given these people all the enjoyments and happiness of life, and has withheld nothing from them. Sunday the 18th, Lord Palmerston came to see us in a very polite and friendly manner, and in- formed us that our requests were granted and fairly settled, and that any time we pleased we • Asser, generally, is the time about three hours before sunset. OO JOURNAL OF might depart, and that Mr. Fraser was directed to conduct us as Mihniindar as far as Constanti- nople. His Lordsliip also said that his Majesty would he pleased and very happy to see us, and that we might have that honour on Wednesday, as the Badishah who had not been in the capital for some time, would be in his palace here on Wednesday next, where we might be presented. In truth, Lord Palmerston was in every respect very kind and polite, a striking proof of the friendship and union of the two empires. In the evening we went to the entertainment of Mr. V. Smith, where we met a noble and most delightful party of ladies and gentlemen. It was an exceed- ingly pleasant visit, as I had formed before a par- ticular friendsliip with the honourable, agreeable, and accomplished Mrs. S . Tuesday the 26th, we visited a manufactory for the purpose of purchasing some instruments, and a pump, which is capable of drawing water from the depth of seventy draas. This latter I bought for 200 tomans, to be used on our return to the Holy Land. I hope that with my hand I shall be able to place it in the holy spot, for THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 89 the benefit of the pilgrims, and those that are honoured to reside in the most blessed parts.* I trust that the pilgrims will remember me in their prayers. Then we visited a very learned artist, who cuts beautiful figures and statues out of marble and solid rocks. Tuesday evening we went to the entertainment of Mr. Money, where we enjoyed the sight of faces lovely as the beau- tiful moon, and had our hearts nourished with their sweet voices and music on the piano-forte. In truth, it was a very delightful sight. Wednesday the 21st, we went to be honoured at the gate of his Imperial Majesty. The custom with the kings of this coiuitry is as follows: — when a foreigner comes to this kingdom on some important embassy to Government, his business must first be brought before the council, and be- fore his afiairs are settled and received by the ministers, he cannot see the king. But when his plans are accepted by the Dawlet,f then he • Najah Ashref, near Bagdad, which I have already mentioned. Before I left Bagdad, the prince had gone there to fulfil his vow by fixing the pump. + Government. I 2 90 JOURNAL OF will be presented to the sovereign. The King himself leaves the management of his affairs to his ministers. He himself has leisure for the enjoyment of various pleasures. He enters his carriage, he visits the garden, he inhales the odour of the flowers, and derives enjoyment from every source. Sometimes, for two or three months he does not come to his palace in the capital, and see anybody there. He goes incognito about the streets, conversing with whom he pleases, and even should he be discovered to be the King, he would only be respected as a private gentleman. When we were in this city, there were several royal persons and kings, who went about pri- vately, as other people. However, on this day he came in state to his palace in the capital. Three hours before sunset we set off for the royal palace. When we came there, we were first con- ducted into an ante-room, till Lord Palmerston informed his Majesty of our arrival. Then we were ushered into the presence of his Majesty, and introduced by liis lordship. When we entered the royal hall, where the Shah was standing, and when we saw the light of his countenance, we THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 91 bowed our heads to him, as due to his Majesty. He expressed his kindness towards us, and pro- nounced the joyful words, that we were as his sons, and that he would be pleased to order every thing for our welfare. We most humbly offered our thanks for his grace, and his Majesty was highly pleased with oiu' address, which Meerza Ibrahim translated very well. After the audience we took our leave and departed. In truth, he is a most gracious, excellent king ; exceedingly kind and affable. He is about eighty years old, and this is the sixth year of his reign. He is a descendant of a German royal family, of the house of Hanover. It is rather more than a hun- dred years since the line of Stuart (formerly kings of this country) ceased, and the present one came to the throne. Charles the First, of the house of Stuart, was a sanguinary and arbitrary prince. He wished to subvert the constitution, to dis- pense with Parliament, and to reign despotically. The English, however, put an end to his career by decapitating him. Here followed a short in- terregnum, after which liis son, Charles the Se- cond, was called to the throne, and on his death 92 JOURNAL OF was succeeded by his brother, James the Second. This sovereign attempted, like his grandfather, to reign despotically. But he was obliged to ab- dicate, and the nation invited his son-in-law, the Prince of Orange, to the throne. This last king dying without issue, Anne, daughter of James the Second, reigned, and was succeeded by George the First, prince of the house of Hanover, whose line is now upon the throne. Here we must express oui" best thanks to his present Majesty, for his hospitality, kindness, and friendship. Thui-sday the 22nd, Mohanmied Ismael Khan called to see us. He breakfasted vnth. us, and soon after we went with him to the painter Mr. Parridge, who lived in a house near us. This distinguished and learned artist draws and paints so exquisitely that nothing is wanting to his drawing but a soul. This artist drew out the portraits of us tlu"ee on one piece of canvass, so much hke, that one could scarcely distinguish the likenesses from the originals. Every day numbers of very beautiful ladies came to see om* portraits. On this day also while we were there, a few of these houries came to gaze at them ; we asked THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 93 them to sit down, and enjoyed with them very- pleasant conversation. There was among them a very handsome young lady, who said to one of the ladies of the party, " I should like to become the wife of your brother, but I find it very difficult, because I have no brother to be married with you." Taymoor Meerza hearing this, said, "Lady! I will become your brother, and fill the same office." The ladies then fainted in laughing, and were exceedingly pleased, and thus it was agreed upon, that Taymoor Meerza should become the brother, and satisfy both the two ladies, and himself. After the contract was finished, they took the hands of each other, and held a very delightful conversation on the joke. Since tliis day, whenever Taymoor Meerza has met this young lady in any party, he does nothing but sit dovni and keep her company. All the vizirs, princes, nobles, and gentlemen, be- gan to see Taymoor Meerza in every party always engaged conversing with this lady by signs, and endeavouring to make himself understood. The nobles and great personages said to Taymoor Meerza, "You are exceedingly fortunate in ob- taining the favour of this lady, since many young 94 JOURNAL OF noblemen and very distinguished persons have used every means to make her acquaintance, but she has not favoured any one of them with her company." In short, Taymoor Meerza fell in love with her, and gave up the idea of retm-ning home, and on the whole he forgot every thing, and determined to abandon every other place, and reside in London. Indeed, the love of Taymoor Meerza was so strong, as to lead me to think, that if I should insist upon his returning home, it would cause his death. Our friends seeing that Tay- moor Meerza's enjoyment in their parties depend- ed solely upon the presence of tliis young and honourable lady, made a point of inviting her to meet him. On one occasion we were invited to an evening party; when we arrived, Taymoor Meerza saw the house dark, not observing a ray of the shadow of his love : he looked in every direction, and did not see the star appearing from the hori- zon. The more he looked round, the less he saw. Then he said to himself, " Oh ! how have I lost the sight of my eyes ! let me die." Again he said, " Nay, what will it profit me if I lose my life. Oh ! let me live, if I can only see her again. Can THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 95 I be in a party without my soul ? No ! It is impossible, let it not be." Then his heart forced him to rise up to the host; with an open eye he asked him, " Wliere is the lady ?" The assemblage suddenly laughed, saying to him, " She is already out of your grasp." Two days ago she fell in love with a young gentleman with whom she went to the great church, and was married with him, and both of them have left the city. They are now walking about among the flowers, enjoying the pleasure of love. Unfortunately, Taymoor Meer- za, as soon as he heard this unexpected news, was almost distracted, and could scarcely be com- forted by any body. However, our friends ex- plained to him that she did not keep her word, and that he need not be sorry, and with much pains they restored his heart. On the next day we went to the house of the painter, and saw our portraits, for which he will receive about 1000 tomans. Here I made the acquaintance of Miss R , with whom I formed a strong friendship and attachment. I accordingly accompanied her to the great zoological garden, 96 JOURNAL OF where we gazed at the wonderful quadrupeds and birds. Friday the 23rd, we accompanied a party of beautiful and honourable ladies to some gardens ; and three hours before sunset we went to the entertainment of Sir H. Willock, who had been for twenty years ambassador to Persia. He speaks Persian \vith perfect eloquence, and is also a fine Persian poet. His house is like a garden full of roses, and his party resembled the beautiful blossom of flowers, which produces joy in the heart, and the brilliancy of those who were present was a nourishment to the soul; and the pride of the spring rose to its height. His garden is green like emerald, its water is rose-water, its trees are the residences of the nightingales, and verily his house is a paradise. There were also numbers of the nobility and gentry, most of whom speak Persian, which they learned in Hin- dostan and Persia. By this means they kept up with us a very agreeable, friendly conversation. One of the party was a young lady, whose beauty caused the brilliancy of the sun, which THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 97 shines on the world, to be ashamed of itself. The roses of the gardens looked with humble obedi- ence at her beauty. This handsome young lady sung very sweetly while she was playing on the musical instrument which they call a piano-forte. This lovely, delightful young damsel turned vdth a smiling face towards Wah, saying, " Tell me a Persian verse, that I may sing and play upon my piano." Brother WaH immediately obeyed her commands, and recited a verse of Hafiz, wiiich she sang beautifully. On the whole, it was a very dehghtful and agreeable entertainment, and we had most pleasant conversation on different topics. On our way to this place we saw some domes flying in the air, which they call balloons, and here we learnt the particulars of their con- struction. The balloon is made of a strong silken material, which is glazed with a certain substance that renders it impervious to the atmosphere. They expel the common air, and inflate it with a lighter gas, and attach to it a boat, in which two or more persons may sit, and thus ascend to the clouds. It reaches so lofty a height, that it appears to the spectator, with a spy-glass, like VOL. II. K 98 JOURNAL OF an orange. Again, by letting the gas out of it, the balloon will, by degrees, descend. They have not yet succeeded in causing it to descend to whatever place they wish, but in time the English will bring this invention under perfect control. Wednesday the 23rd, early in the morning, Sir Gore Ouseley and Fraser Saheb called upon us, and said, " We are ordered by the King, that if you have a desire to visit Windsor, the imperial palace, you are invited by his Majesty to do so ; and that her Majesty the Queen will be happy to see you as her guests in the palace." We thank- fully accepted the invitation, and ordered our carriage for the palace. It was a delightful day. All along the road we enjoyed the delicious fra- grance of the dehghtful gardens. After travelling thirty-three miles, we arrived at this heavenly pa- lace. On our way thither, we met his Majesty proceeding to the city. The King being in his carriage, we paid our salutations at a distance, and received his Majesty's in return. This superior palace is situated in a garden, or park, fifty-two miles in circumference, which is surrounded by a wall of iron bars, about three THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 99 yards and a half high. The park has forty gates, splendidly wrought, and through it run several fine streams like rose-water, and its trees are most noble, producing a beautiful shade. The carriage-roads are so finely paved, that a person might take his repose upon them. Roses of every kind, and flowers of every hue, are in this park. Its land is green like emerald, its prospect is pleasure to the eye. Gazelles, antelopes, and deers, are here in thousands. Pheasants, par- tridges, woodcocks, and game of every kind abound, all of which are enjoying this delightful place. Nightingales, goldfinches, and their asso- ciates, keep with their sweet voices watch in this garden. It is naturally carpeted with a beautiful green velvet. My pen tells me, do not proceed ; I am incapable of describing it, it is Paradise. In one part of this Eden, there is a hill, two miles in circumference, on which the palace is built ; it is about 2000 yards in height, and affords a most beautiful view of the park. The mind cannot but be astonished at this splendid edifice, whose cjescription exceeds the power of human writers. Its brilliancy reproves the sun of the 100 JOURNAL OF world. The girdle of its cupola makes that of Kassrow* sink into insignificance and shame. The first geometrician of the age would be unable to find out the ratio which the corner bears to the entire roof, and the most learned architect would cut his finger, f from his inability to discover the principles of its construction. Art thou a garden and a palace, residence of victory ? or a Paradise that God hath planted in the earth ? In truth, thou appearest as an ever- lasting Paradise. O azure four-springed foun- tain! whence did thy colour first come? Thou must be a stream from Kauthar ! J In every room that we entered, our astonish- ment increased, and our minds were surprised. In every apartment we observed imperial splen- dour. All the furniture was of gold and precious stones. Even in the smallest room there ap- peared to be an assemblage of all the jewels in the world. The brilliancy of each article of gold and jewelry surpassed that of the sun and moon. Each • Cyrus. t An expression of great despair. J The immense large river of Paradise, detailed in the Koran. THE PERSIAN PRINCES. lOl of the kings, for 200 years past, has had a sepa- rate palace in this castle, with distinct majestic splendour of sovereignty, as may be now seen, just as they were when these sovereigns occupied them. And whatever unique jewels each sove- reign obtained during his reign, are placed in his palace, with his statue, either of marble, jasper, or porphyry, seated on a jewelled throne ; so beautifully made, that you might say, it is alive and can speak. One statue of a former king cost more than 12,000 tomans. Thus you may ima- gine what is the value of all the statues, pictures, and figures in this castle. In the same manner, every one of the shahs of England has his coat of arms, together with the arms of such foreign kings as he may have conquered. All his ministers and officers of state during his reign, have also statues placed by him in the room, each with arms ot the age, and appearing as if they were alive. In the royal rooms of the late kings, all are seated on their thrones and chairs of gold, em- broidered with precious stones, which cost millions of minted gold ; each has his crown on his head of a hundred mauns of solid pure gold, and K 2 102 JOURNAL OF adorned with precious stones, so magnificent as to take the senses away. These crowns are supported by chains of gold, and suspended over the heads of the sovereigns. In short, the majestic splendour of every sovereign who has died still exists. All the royal furniture in the palace is deposited in the different apartments, and every thing which in- dicates the greatness of majesty is still now in the same order as formerly, and attendants are actually waiting just as if the departed sovereign was alive. Their libraries are filled wdth myriads of volumes, a thousandth part of which cannot be described. One of the Hbraries, belonging to one of the former sovereigns, is lined with fifty thousand volumes. We also noticed several rooms, three hundi'ed feet long, and a hundred broad, all adorned with beautiful pictures. These are for balls, where the King and Queen invite their noble guests ; the King himself dances, and the Queen also vdth whom she pleases. When such balls take place, the sounds of the musical instruments in these rooms are heard at a distance of twenty miles. The wonderful articles which we ob- served are so numerous, that it is impossible to THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 103 describe them. After we had minutely examined the palaces of the former sovereigns, they con- ducted us to the palace of his majesty, William the Fourth, the sight of which made us forget the former ones. Imagine what must be the splendour of a king whose revenue is four hundred and eighty kerrors per annum ! Indeed we were filled \\ath amazement at what we beheld. No sovereign ever possessed such splendoiir, not even Solomon, (peace be upon him !)* who had power over the Gin,-f- whom he commanded to find • Solomon, the oracle of his age. No name is more famous in the East than his : he succeeded his father David, according to their be- lief, when only twelve years old, at which age Omnipotence placed under his obedience, not only mankind and animals, but even the ele- ments, and the Gin, good and bad. His throne was magnificent beyond idea; twelve thousand seats, some say twentyrfour thousand, of gold, being arranged on the right for the prophets and apostles, and twelve thousand on the left for men learned in every science. The birds were his constant attendants, screening him like a canopy from the incle- mencies of the weather, whilst the zephyrs wafted him wherever he wished to go, rendering horses, or any earthly carriage, unnecessary. For further particulars respecting the Gin, and also respecting Solomon, see Ayat el Namleh, or Chapter of the Ant, in the Koran, as I cannot here enlarge further. t Gin, i. e. the well known fiery spirits of the Koran, and the Arabian Nights. 104 JOURNAL OF for him all the treasures of the world, even he did not possess so much as his present Majesty. Although we had not the opportunity to see one thousandth part, yet of what we saw and estimated we could easily imagine what was asserted of Alexander of the Two Horns, that he blocked up the wall of Gog and Magog * with gold, since the gold that we observed here in this palace is four times the quantity that would be required to block up any wall of Gog and Magog. While we were walking about, her Majesty the Queen, a daughter of a German king, sent the Royal Prince of Germany, her cousin, to inform us that the Queen would be happy to see us. We replied, that it was our greatest desire • The throne of gold, i. e. the country between the Euxine and Caspian Seas ; so called from the privileges enjoyed by the Persian go- vernors of Derbend, to give audience on a golden throne. This pro- vince having been anciently considered as the barrier of the Persian empire, a strong mound of gold was built, from sea to sea, by Alexander of the Two Horns. This is called in general the wall of Gog and Magog, as it is believed by many Asiatics, that their terri- tories are beyond or behind this wall. The prince, however, appears now to be satisfied that the said wall was built by Alexander of the Two Horns. This Alexander was a Mussulman and a prophet, according to Persian belief, not Alexander of Macedon. THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 105 to have the honoiir to be introduced to her Ma- jesty. After a few minutes, we were honoured with an introduction to the Queen, who was surrounded by her attendants of honour, daugh- ters of the first Enghsh nobility. We presented to her Majesty our humble respects, and the Queen most affably assured us of her sincere friendship. In the mean time a royal Mihmander, with the Prince her uncle, accompanied us to show us the different places in the palace. We afterwards visited the royal church which is near the castle. This church is supported by the vows and be- quests that are presented to it by the sovereigns. The sovereigns are buried in this church. On one of the tombs we observed some magnificent statues. A royal princess lies buried here, who died when she was in the bloom of her age. She having been extremely beautiful, they carved for her a most splendid statue. After we had ceased gazing at the church, we entered the carriages that had been ordered for us, and took a ride in the park. We rode about forty miles in it. The wonderful edifices, and beautiful flowers, that we observed here, quite deprived us of our senses. 106 JOURNAL OF Every one of the former sovereigns, during his reign, built in this garden an edifice, and planted in it most elegant plants, according to his taste ; these are opened for the visitors to enjoy. On the rivers and streams of Kauthar, we saw some fine ships. The eye is charmed with the variety of roses and flowers which are gloriously pre- sented to its view, minutely to describe which would require us to write for ever. We also observed about the streams some beautiful royal tents, made of rich and valuable stuifs of different colours. Having now gone far in the park, and it becoming rather late, we retiu-ned to the palace. Here we had some refreshments of all sorts of most delicious things. Then we thanked his Royal Highness for the kindness of their Majes- ties, and assured him that the interest we felt in what we had seen on that day was beyond mea- sure. We again expressed our thanks to her Majesty, who was pleased to allow us to see so many most tasteful things. The Royal Prince expressed his regret that we had not time enough to examine all that was to be seen, as it would require more than ten years to see minutely the THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 107 third part of the splendour of this palace. Thus having been engaged all the day gazing at the different things, we were fatigued and returned to our mansion. Thursday the 24th, four hours before sunset, we visited a large edifice, which we may call the opera of the horse.* It is the same in form as the opera house or theatre, and in the same man- ner it contains boxes and seats for the spectators. There were on this day about 50,000 ladies with charming faces like the moon, and the ray of their beauty gave a most powerful splendour to the place. The principal parts in this theatre are performed by horses, including other wonderful exercises. In the first part, an Asiatic emperor in Eastern splendour came out upon the stage, where a fire was lighted up, the light of which made the whole place look as red as crimson. In the same theatre there were many elevated places, like high bridges, on which they performed on horseback. The horses ran up and down ex- actly like cats. Some little boys, of seven years * Astley's. . 108 JOURNAL OF of age and under, clad in different coloured dresses, played by turning their bodies as if they had no bones at all. They formed, by joining their bodies in diflferent ways, any figure they liked. For instance, they wished to form an ele- phant. One of them represented the proboscis, another the head, one the neck, and others the feet. Thus they form an elephant, exactly like the original; so wonderfully, that one could scarcely distinguish it from a real one. Likewise, with their bodies they form the resemblance of any other animal. About 100 men were arranged in this manner, — one stood above the other, that is, the feet of one on the head of another, till all were arranged, and then they danced in that position. In truth, it was a very wonderful, surprising perform- ance. The most astonishing part of this exhibition was a ring of wood, which was held by a man, ten yards distance, around which were fixed some spears. Some persons, while playing on the rope, passed most wonderfully through the ring, with- out being hurt. Afterwards some beautiful young female performers, with angehc faces, dressed expensively with jewels, came out. They played in THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 109 different ways, and with their beauty and exercises exceedingly delighted and astonished all of us. After the rope performance was over, then the play was carried to the lower part of the house, that is, the gromid, which is a roimd place of soft earth. First a young boy, ten years old, rode on two horses, which stood at the distance of a yard from each other. He took the bridles of both in his hand, and placing one foot on each horse's back, and lashing them with his whip, they went with extreme rapidity. The horses ran so swiftly, that their feet did not appear to touch the ground. It is said, that they go the distance of an hour in a minute. In fact, the performance of this boy on the horse's back, in such a narrow place, was so quick and wonderful that we lost our senses. Afterwards a young female appeared, of beautiful complexion, bril- liant as Venus. She also, in the same manner, rode on the horses, but in a more wonderful way. She actually danced on the horses, and made these large, powerful animals themselves dance. , Sometimes this young lady, with a stick in her hand, gave a sign to the horse, which he VOL. II. L 110 JOURNAL OF understood as well as a human being, and fell down as if dead ; again she gave another sign, which made him rise up and dance. In fact, nothing was wanted to this horse but speech. After this young lady had finished her wonders, then other performances were introduced. I would only add, that what we saw done here was as if by magic ; indeed, you may call it a com- plete necromancy. Afterwards the master of this establishment himself came out, and performed so wonderfully on horseback, that he might be called the first horseman in the world. This man, standing on a very large and powerfvd horse, exhibited such distinguished powers of horsemanship, that what I have already mentioned is nothing in compari- son of it. Wliile the horse was at full speed, he filled his pipe, struck a light, and began smok- ing. He also took a pen and ink in his hand, and while at full gallop wrote letters. Likewise he loaded his gun, and fired. Again, two men stood and held a circular screen of paper in his way, ten yards above him, through which he jumped, though the horse was at full speed, and alighted on his back. In fine, what was exhibited THE PERSIAN PRINCES. Ill here was miraculous. Were we to describe the whole, it would too much lengthen our book. After we had spent a few hours at this place, we went to Lady C 's, one of the distinguished and honourable personages of this kingdom. Here we spent some delightful hours of the evening, and near daybreak we returned to our residence. Friday the 25th, we went to a cutlery shop, to look at the various articles, such as penknives, razors, scissors, &c. Here we saw many curious and strange instruments, such as we had not be- fore seen, for dentists, oculists, surgeons, and doctors. It never entered into our minds that there were so many and such various instrimients, as we here observed, there being upwards of two nullion knives of different descriptions. Some of them were for anatomical purposes, to remove any part of the bones with perfect facility. These instru- ments are so ingeniously constructed, and adapted to their purposes, as to enable even a child to prac- tise in medical science. Indeed, those of the me- dical profession in this country appear to have no difficuky in curing any disease ; so that, whatever to our Persian doctors appears as incurable, to 112 JOURNAL OF them presents no insurmountable difficulty. We saw here a penknife that had 1800 blades; in short, we spent nearly the whole day in gazing at these different articles. On Saturday the 20th, we visited some of the bazaars and shops, where we saw specimens of art without end. In the evening we went to the house of Lord Glenelg, vizir of the West Indies, and all the English colonies. Here we met, at dinner, princes, nobles, and vizirs, a magnificent assembly. At his residence we saw some most curious birds, such as we had not seen even in the Zoological Gardens. In truth, it was a very noble entertainment. Sunday the 27th, an hour before smiset, we went to the house of Sir John Hobhouse, the vizir of the East Indies. Here there were pre- sent many of the vizirs and nobles of the king- dom, and many of the distinguished persons of India. The assembly was adorned by the pre- sence of a company of beautiful ladies, the ray of whose faces lighted the place, as in daytime. After the dinner was served, the ladies favoiired us with some Persian music, by which, and their THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 113 friendship, we felt exceedingly happy ; in truth, it was a very noble entertainment. From thence we went to the house of Lady R , who pos- sesses an imequalled beauty. Here, as in other assemblies, all the guests were clad in fancy dresses, and wore false mustacliios and beards, and every one danced. After we had had a full sight of these exhibitions, we returned to our residence. Monday the 28th, we went to the house of Noori EfTendi, the ambassador of Rome. His house is very fine, situated in the Park, from which any one can have an excellent view of all the beautiful faces of those angelic forms who take their walk or ride in the Park. The table was furnished with all kinds of nice dishes and delicious fruits. After the dinner was served, we had together some pleasant con- versation on Persian and Tiu'kish poetry. In truth, it was an exceedingly pleasant entertain- ment. From hence we went to an evening party at Lady C 's, where the assembly was most noble. Tuesday, the 29th, Fraser Saheb called, and said, " There is a house in the city, which is l2 114 JOURNAL OF well worth \dsiting ; should you be inclined to see what it contains ?" Not feeling very well, and being engaged to go in the evening to the palace of the Queen Princess Victoria, I decHned his invitation ; but Wall and Taymoor Meerza went with him. They were conducted to a house where they saw some figures of kings, and the Royal Family, both male and female, with some figures of ministers, heroes, and princes, all made of white wax. Every one was dressed according to his rank, and his costume was richly embroi- dered, and adorned with jewels, in perfect order. When Wali, and Taymoor Meerza entered this hall, they were astonished at this imperial assem- blage, thinking within themselves what these em- perors coidd be doing here, and why they should be assembled in this place ; why should these females and royal members be seated on jewelled chairs ? Some had books in their hands, others were writing, and some appeared as if they were leisurely conversing with each other. When they were informed that the objects which they saw, were simply artificial figures, they could not be- lieve it, but when they approached, and actually THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 115 touched them, then they were satisfied, yet with great astonishment. After they had fully in- spected this exhibition, they determined not to inform me of the reality of what they had seen ; and as we were to go in the evening to \isit the Queen, they contrived to bring me first to this house, saying, that it was the palace. At last they carried their purpose into effect, by desiring Fraser Saheb, to say nothing about it ; but to bring us to this house in the evening on our way to the palace. Afterwards they went to another place where there was a very large edifice ; here they were conducted up some stairs and saw a dark place, and the stars appearing in heaven. There were many men and women seated on chairs. Shortly after, they observed in this place a large church in which there were many priests engaged in prayer, and many large candles lighted up. A few minutes after, daybreak began to appear, and by degrees the light of the candles began to die away, and the sun which illuminates tlie world arose, and the stars of heaven totally disappeared. Every minute their surprise was increased from these wonderful representations. 116 JOURNAL OF When they inquired, what these exhibitions were, and were asked what they thought the distance might be from them, they said, that they were at least 800 feet. Qmte to their astonishment, they were informed that they were not more than six feet distant, and that all these lights were so arranged in the pictures as to cause all these sights by their colours, and by drawing do^vn the curtain it becomes dark. The light in this room, is admitted in a certain way, which enables them to carry on these exhibitions. In truth, no one could ever think that the simny illumination in this place was artificial. Many people visit this place, and as they have to pay something for admittance, a large income is brought to the proprietors. Afterwards they moved to other seats when it became again by degrees as dark as night, and there appeared to them a village "at a distance at the base of a large mountain, upon which light gradually dawned, moreover the barking of the doffs of the village was heard. Some clouds in the heavens appeared, and caused a storm of rain with dreadful thunder and Kghtning. Afterwards snow fell so plentifully, that in a very short time THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 117 it covered the mountain and the village with the plain, and every thing therein. After a little while the sun shone, and many carriages came from the neighbourhood in order to take out the inhabitants who were buried under the snow. All this also was artificial. After Wali, and Tay- moor Meerza, had a full exhibition of these won- ders they came home, and related what they last saw, and concealed what they had seen before. About sunset we entered the carriage for the royal palace, on a visit to the Queen. We ar- rived at the door of the house, supposing this to be the palace. I desired Fraser Saheb to enter first, and to announce our arrival, and to obtain permission for us to enter. Fraser Saheb went in, and came out, saying, that the king has ho- noured this place with his presence, and that all the royal family are present, as well as the vizirs and nobles of state, all in full uniform, in the presence of his Majesty, who is holding a levee. I then entered the place, and found it a splendid hall. The king was sitting on the im- perial throne, with the crown on his head, and clad in a splendid royal robe of jewels. In the 118 JOURNAL OF same manner, tlie Queen was seated, in her most magnificent robe of precious stones. All the members of the royal family were in their full uniform, making a circle round the King. Dukes, princes, vizirs, and nobles, all standing before him. The royal hall was beautifully Kghted up, with magnificent chandeliers. When I beheld all this splendour, I said within myself, " I ought to approach the King just as I should my sovereign, the Badishah of Persia, and ofier him the same dutiful obedience." Thus I approached nearer to the King, bowing down my head, after our custom, and my brothers stood beliind me. The King, much to my surprise, did not appear to acknowledge my presence. I then asked Fraser Saheb why the King was uncivil. He said, "I do not know. Perhaps," said he, "the reason is, that it was not the King, but the Queen, who invited you, so that the King has nothing to say to you ; let us go to the Queen." I was exceedingly vexed and ashamed of what took place, bowed my head to the ground, and followed Fraser Saheb to the Queen. Here I observed a throne of marble, inlaid with precious stones and valuable jewels. THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 119 On this splendid and magnificent throne was seated a young lady, with a face like the moon, di'essed in royal robes, worth more than the revenues of Europe. A precious crown was on her head, and she was surrounded by a company of ladies with angelic faces, whose splendour was Kke the sun at mid-day, all seated upon chairs of gold. I drew near, offering the due respects ; all were silent, and nobody replied to my salutation. This was quite the reverse of what I met with at other parties. I began to be qtute vexed with Fraser Saheb, and said to him, " Fraser Saheb ! this gives me to understand that the Queen did not invite me to come, and that she did not wish to see me. It is all through your fault and inter- meddling that I have to bear this shame." One of the ministers, dressed most magnifi- cently, without a hat on his head, w'as standing before the Queen. I went near this minister, and desired Fraser Saheb to tell him this, that although the Queen did not imite us, yet we were already in her palace, and it would be only polite- ness in her to treat us as her guests. Fraser Saheb interpreted to him what I said, but I ob- 120 JOURNAL OF served that this man did not give any answer, neither uttered a word. Praise be to God ! what a curious circumstance ! I then took liis hand, saying, " Why do not you give an answer to my question?" When I shook his hand, he fell down. I then observed that he was dead, and I was astonished to find that all of them also were dead persons. Now my brothers and Fraser Saheb laughed loudly, and said, " These people are not dead, but all of them are artificial figures of white wax." Verily, no one would ever have thought that they were manufactured by men. This establishment belongs to a rich nobleman, who inherited it from his father ; and it brings him daily an income of a hundi'ed tomans. Many people fr'om all parts of the world come to visit this wonderful place. In short, I was not satisfied till I examined all of them ; and I w^as perfectly astonished to find that there was not the least difference between the imitation and the imitated. So wonderful are the arts of the Franks. After I had made a full examination of this place, we left it for the royal palace, which is most beautiful, and most magnificent ; the imperial THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 121 furniture in it is exceedingly costly and splendid. A number of the most distinguished nobles of the kingdom were honoured to stand before Her Royal Highness the Princess Victoria. When we entered into the royal presence, we were received by Her Royal Highness the Duchess of Kent; we also met Her Royal Highness the sister of the King, and were introduced to the Princess Victoria. We presented our humble respects, and received the utmost civility, and kind friendship. Her Royal Highness is seventeen years of age, and the only daughter of the late Duke of Kent, who was a brother of his present Majesty. Her Royal Highness is the legitimate heir to the throne, by the right of the precious blood of her father and herself. Although King William the Fourth has several children, yet as their mother is not of the royal blood, they have no right whatever to inherit, and the Princess most certainly vvdll come to the throne, bemg the daughter of his brother. It is the custom of the royal members of the Franks, not to be married to any except those who are of royal blood. When this Princess VOL. II. M 122 JOURNAL OF comes of age, she must be married to a royal prince. A great many come from different parts, to be honoured with her presence ; she converses with whom she pleases, and he whom she honours with her favour will obtain her hand, but will have nothing to do in the affairs of the kingdom. He will not have a penny from the treasury'', he must bring from his own. The Queen may furnish him vrith money from her private resources, and their children will inherit the throne. In fine, their Royal Highnesses, both the Princess and her mother, were to us exceedingly kind and friendly. I related to them what had just happened, at which they, and all who were present, laughed. Their Royal Highnesses said that they had given us tliis private entertainment, that we might have a better opportunity to see each other. "We expressed our thanks and gratitude for their kindness, and remained till midnight, hearing the royal band of music, which nourished the heart ; we then took our leave and departed. Afterwards we went to a party at the house of a lady of rank, where we met many ladies with whom we were THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 123 acquainted ; and after spending a little time, departed to our residence. Thursday, the 1st of Rabeah the second, three hours before sunset, we entered the carriage, and went to a house in which the Lodge of Friendship of Freemasons was assembled. Here we had the honour to join the Lodge, where aU of us took our first degree in this most noble society. Every man who desires to join it, must go himself and see. But I can say this, that it is a most honourable, desirable, and sacred secret. Every person that desires to become a member, must be above the age of twenty-two years. No slave, nor woman, is admissible. Every member must be a free person, and of a free father. A person may take the three first degrees of Freemasonry, within a year and a half, and the fourth after that period has elapsed. A freemason, after taking his degrees, will have a patent from the head of the society, signed by the nobles, declaring him to be such. The head of all the freemasons in the world, is His Royal Highness the Duke of Sussex, a brother of his Majesty. The word freemason is 124 JOURNAL OF composed of two words ; " free," which signifies Azad, and " mason," which means Banna. Free- masons of each degree have their own signs, till they reach the highest degree. This is all I can say about freemasonry. Thank God we became members, which we had had a very strong desire to do in our hearts for many years, and now obtained what we were long most anxious to know. We remained with the Lodge till four hours after sunset, and returned to our residence. Friday the 2nd, Mohammed Ismael Khan, the ambassador of Oude, came to see us, and dined with us with some other friends, because they had requested a dinner of Persian dishes, which Taki, our cook, had prepared. In the evening we went to a party at Lady M 's, which was similar to those I have already described. Saturday the 3rd, we went out of London to visit Lady F . Her house is beautifiilly situated on the bank of the river Thames, adjoin- ing an elegant garden, adorned with delightful flowers, and possessing excellent air. Here we met a company of ladies brilliant as the sun. After we had enjoyed the pleasure of the deKghtful THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 125 odours of the garden, and admired the rosy cheeks of the visitors, we sat down to dinner, which was served up with all kinds of delicious dishes of sweetmeats and fruits. After dinner we went again into the garden, where every one took a lady by the hand. The garden was prepared for a ball, and all danced just in the same manner as I have already described. Then we approached the ladies, complimenting them on their fine dancing. Tea was then served, after which we returned to our residence. Sunday the 14th, some of the nobles called to see us, and we had no time to go out. Mr. Fraser called also, and said, " That the Government had invited us to go out of London, and review the royal artillery." We accepted the invitation, being desirous to witness such an exhibition. Monday the 5th. Four hours before noon we entered the carriage, and went twelve miles out of London, where there is a very large city on the river Thames. This place is called the royal magazine of war. There is nothing in this large city but instruments of war, and every thing neces- sary for the artillery and troops, and other depart- M 2 126 JOURNAL OF ments of the war service. Although through- out England, Scotland, and Ireland, there is not a span of land uncultivated or uninhabited, yet this city is wholly devoted to the purpose of war, being furnished with ammunition, and all kinds of mili- tary implements. Three parasangs outside of the city, in every direction, are occupied simply by soldiers, and whatever is necessary for them in their battles. In fact, there is nothing here but what is of a warlike character. The Government having sent word to this place that we were coming to the before-mentioned review to-day, when we arrived at the city, we were met by the general officers, and were conducted to a large lofty palace, which is the residence of the prince of artillery. As soon as he was informed of our arrival, he came out of the palace in full uniform to meet us. Here there were four horses belonging to the king ready for us. We mounted and rode to a fine plain outside the town, accompanied by the generals, colonels, and other officers of rank in the artillery, and were followed by some pieces of cannon, mounted on carriages dravm by horses, which went like hghtning. These were pointed THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 127 at a target at two thousand feet distance. They fired at it, and hit it with every ball. Afterwards they were directed at a target more distant, and not a single ball failed. After this we went to another side, where there were some thousands of large cannons of the royal artillery, with every thing belonging to them, all in perfect order. Here we stood under the royal standard. The dexterous artillerymen loaded and fired their cannons quicker than lightning and swifter than the wind. They fired many thousand balls a minute, and the ears of the heavens became deaf from the sound of their firing, and not a single ball missed its mark. Afterwards the artillery with the ofiicers passed before us exercising, and saluted us with the flags down as is done to royalty. After this we were conducted to another place, where we observed several thousand very large cannons, such as we had not before seen, four times larger than the cele- brated cannon of Teheran, and those of Bushire. The general officer of the artillery, and the other officers, carried on the exercise in the same man- ner by such firing as we had never before witnessed. So many cannons they fired, that our ears became 128 JOURNAL OF quite deaf. Afterwards they began throwing bomb-shells. This most wonderful exhibition I cannot describe, and our pen is astonished, and cannot write an explanation of these mira- cles. Then we suggested that it was enough. The balls and powder which were fired to-day, might have cost 7000 tomans. Afterwards they invited us to see the stores of ammunition, and implements of war. We were conducted to a large plain where there were many very large edifices, any one of which must have cost millions of money : they are so large that each is a quarter of a parasang in circumference. Every one of tliese edifices contains about 5000 men employed in the manufacture of cannon, which look fine and bright like glass. They complete daily twenty- five of them. On one side of this establishment, we observed innumerable cannons manufactured, to be sent to the East and West Indies, and New Holland, and other countries. Afterwards we were conducted to another manufactory, where we saw several thousand men employed in making car- riages. In another place, we observed as many more employed in making muskets for the troops. THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 129 In one part of the building, the barrel is made, and then it is immediately carried to another place, where thousands are employed in complet- ing them. They send out daily many hundreds of guns. All these are made by machinery moved by steam. Afterwards we were conducted to a very large manufactory for wood-work, where they have instruments to cut to pieces in a second the largest tree in the world. Then we went to another place where we saw about 600 boys of six and seven years old, engaged in making cartridges. These Kttle boys are instructed to do their work with the greatest facility, and each makes several in a minute, and 2000 in a day. After this we went to a place where we saw many thousand large cases placed one above the other. Tliis was the powder magazine for the ships, troops, castles, &c. and we observed many men examining each case, that should any of the powder be spoiled, they may change it. Now if we were to describe the tenth of what we saw in these stores of balls, guns, powder, and every thing connected with war, the relation would take up fifty years. In fact, such preparations for war, complete and in perfect order, 130 JOURNAL OF cannot be imagined by the mind. We were ex- ceedingly interested with this visit, which we shall not forget in all our lives. Praise be to God ! What an immense power, has the God of the universe given to these people. In fine, only from looking at these things, we became quite tired, and out of oui" senses. Afterwards we were in- vited to a majestic edifice, which is the residence of four general ofiicers, who have the direction of all these affairs. Here we saw most wonderful things which cannot be described. Then we entered our carriage, and returned to our residence. Tuesday the 6th. About the Asser, while we were sitting at home, we heard a noise beneath our windows ; we asked what was the matter ; they said, a balloon is just gone up, and is passing by this way, and the people have come in crowds to gaze at it. Two minutes after, we saw the balloon ascending to heaven. It passed by our abode, and w^e looked at it with a spy-glass, and saw in it two beautiful ladies singing. In the evening, we went to a party at Lady H 's, an accomphshed and distinguished lady. It was a very delightful assembly. THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 131 Wednesday the 4th. Her Royal Highness the Princess Victoria sent us, for a memento, the likenesses of herself and her royal mother, with a request to have some of our poetical composition in our o\vn hand-writing ; which we most readily granted. We each wrote a quatrain verse of four hemistichs. Her Royal Highness was very much pleased with them ; for they were translated to her in English. This day was very rainy, but as we wished to go and see Bedlam, and the agents of that place had been informed before that our visit would take place on this day, we found it necessary to go, as appointed. We entered our carriage, and other friends accompanied us. We went out of town, and came to a large castle, about two miles in circumference, situated on the bank of the river. All its doors and windows are made of iron. We came to the large gate of entrance, which was shut. When the captain of the castle came, and was told that we were the Persian princes, he opened the gate, and we entered the place. It is four stories high, and contains innumerable rooms. There are two de- partments ; the upper one for the women and girls, 132 JOURNAL OF each of whom has a maid-servant ; the lower one for the males, each of whom has likewise a male servant. We were first conducted to the upper department, containing many clean, pleasant rooms, which have delightful views of the gardens around. Every room has afine bedstead, and is elegantly furnished. Every thing desirable and necessary, and in perfect order. This delightful place, with such accommodations, gives any person an inclination to become insane. The maniacs here are at liberty to go about the place, and converse with each other. Every one of the females here does the same work as when she was sane. They employ them in this manner, that they may not forget what they knew before, and to occupy their time. Some of them were sewing, and others were employed in different arts which we had not seen before. Most of them looked very pale and sickly, on account of their diseases. Some were weeping, others laughing, some singing, and others dancing in an insane manner. We looked at all of them. Whenever any of them does the least thing wrong, she is immediately seized, and shut up in a room. She then begs that the door may be opened for her, THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 133 and promises repentance ; then she is let out again. Every thing regarding their comfort and happiness is perfectly prepared for them, both in eatables, drinkables, sofas, apparel, &c. While we were walking about these places, a fine neat looking girl came to us, and asked us who we were. We repKed, " The Persian princes." ^' Is it true?" said she. "Yes," we answered. Then she said, " I shall always be able to tell hereafter a Persian, by the dress such as you wear." We were informed that this young woman was a celebrated poetess. Afterwards she asked us, *' Are you going to stay here, or will you go away ? " we repUed, " We are not insane, of course we shall go back." She said, " Many foreigners come to \asit this place and go back, but they come here in fine weather ; but as you have come so great a distance on such a stormy day for such a useless object, I believe you are also belonging to our company, and it will be necessary that you should join us for a few days till you become sane." Her words made us all laugh till we fainted away.' Afterwards she took my hand, and invited us to her room. We entered her apartment, where VOL. II. N 134 JOURNAL OF she showed us some of her needle-work, and re- peated some verses of her own poetry. She then said to us, " Notwithstanding you are royal sons and I am the daughter of a peasant, nevertheless, I would not part with my house for your palace, neither would I exchange my insanity for your sanity." She conversed on other things which had notliing to do with her madness. We were told that sometimes she does very strange things. Afterwards she asked us, "Do you fear God as I do?" "Of course," we said. "Have you that divine grace that I have?" We replied, "Yes." Then many tears came to her eyes, and she asked us to leave her apartment, sajdng, " I am not inclin- ed to converse with you any more, leave my room." When we went out, she shut the door after us. From this place we went from one room to another till we had visited all the upper apartments. It would be impossible to describe all the strange individuals here, or the wonderful things we saw. The insane females are 275 in number. After this, we were conducted to the lower apartment, occupied by the men, who have their attendants, and every thing necessary, nice and clean. They are also employed in the same manner in their THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 135 former business. One of them was a person who twenty years ago, owing to his insanity, had fired a pistol at the king, in order to destroy him. This man is here engaged to take care of and tame birds, which was his former business. Many kinds of curious birds we observed with him in fine cages, that they may lay eggs, which are a source of profit to him. He, though in this condition, taught some parrots to speak English. We observed another person here, who tried to kill a prince. This man having been liberally educated, is a naturalist and astronomer, for which he has great taste, and he is here amongst his books and ap- paratus, engaged in his former pursuits. Others were engaged in reading the Scriptures, and some, who are raving, had chains on their hands. Others had heavier chains, because (as we were informed) they were in the height of madness. One of them continues incessantly to make a most terrible noise ; we were told that he was an Italian, who had been here in this condition for seventeen years, perpetually making this noise. There was also one who, we were informed, is always seeking to destroy himself whenever he is left alone, in con- 136 JOURNAL OF sequence of which the attendant never leaves him. Two years ago this madman made a great fire, in which he put his head till his scalp was burnt. When the servants discovered him, they took him away from the fire, and a medical man was imme- diately brought to him, and his life was preserved. That part of his head was artificially covered. This person, while we were here, performed most singular acts, and we were persuaded that if he were to be left alone, he would immediately put an end to his life. However, we saw many sorts of insane per- sons, the description of which would lengthen the book. The number of men is 300. From this we were conducted to the medical department, where there are some physicians ap- pointed on purpose to attend upon the maniacs. They meet twice a week, and direct their food, and examine them. Whenever a person is perfectly cured, he is let out. This estabhshment is sup- ported by government. After we had seen every thing in tliis castle, they conducted us to another, which is built by its side. This is a very large edifice, containing two divisions, one opposite the other. In one of these THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 137 we observed some fine-looking young girls, from ten to twenty years of age, each occupied in dif- ferent labours. In the same manner, in the opposite part, we saw some fine young boys en- gaged in difierent arts. We were informed that this edifice was built on purpose for such boys and girls as have been in the habit of steahng, or doing such mischiefs, and do not reform, lest they should grow up without any employment, and become bad people ; they are brought here to be reformed, and are taught some art for which they show a taste. They are maintained here, and are never let out, till they become complete masters of the art they are learning. By this means the girls find husbands, and the men wives, and live by their business. In truth it is a most excellent establish- ment. We verily this day became quite tired of looking at so many things. Saturday the 24th. Some princes, vizirs, and nobles called upon us. In the evening we ac- companied a large number of ladies to the Opera, where we saw the same wonderful plays which we have before described. Sunday, the 25th. We went to the enter tain- N 2 138 JOURNAL OF ment of some of the beautiful and accompKshed ladies, for whose redemption I would give my soul. Monday the 26th. We visited Meerza Ibrahim, at the East India Company's college. The said Meerza Ibrahim is an accompKshed gentleman, whose noble conduct proves his high education. His father was the late honourable Mullah Noori Mohammed, of Shiraz, with whom we and his son learnt the grammar. He died at the holy tomb of Imaum Reeza, (peace be upon him !) in Khorassan. The Meerza, after the death of his father, came to Teheran ; where he spent some time, and after- wards went to Constantinople and other parts, and at last came to England, where he is living now, quite in a different state from his father. The Meerza being a good Persian and Arabic scholar, has obtained an appointment in this college for teaching the two languages to students designed for the East India Company's service. He has, during his stay here, wonderfully learnt a great many of their sciences and laws. He is now translating a book of their best history from the English to the Persian, one-half of which he has already finished: THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 139 should he ever complete this work, it vsiU be of very great use to the Persian historians. Now, as we happened to come to this country, he offered us night and day his services, and was never fa- tigued by the trouble we gave him ; in truth he is a real friend. On this day he invited us to the college, which is a noble institution, and in com- plete order. There are in it professors of aU the high sciences, both of the Mohammedan, and the Frank, and the Greek literature, and of all lan- guages. There may be in this coUege about 10,000 students. This edifice cost the sum of 400,000 tomans. Its legacies afford an income of 100,000 tomans per annum, for the expenses of the college, and paaintenance of the students in a comfortable manner. Its rich library contains 50,000 voliunes, out of which there are about 3000 of the best Persian and Arabic works. We observed among them four books of the Methnawi* in his own hand-writing. When we had examined what was to be seen in the college the dinner was served, and afterwards we took a pleasant walk in * A celebrated poet of the East, who wrote a book of moral doctrine in a specieB of metre. 140 JOURNAL OF the delightful gardens which are attached to it ; on the whole we had a very pleasant visit. In the evening we returned to London. Tuesday, the 29th. We were invited to Lady K 's, where we enjoyed the sight of some beautiful, handsome, angehc faces, which caused the assembly to be exceedingly delightful. Wednesday, the 30th. This morning we were invited by some beautiful houries to accompany them to the Zoological Gardens ; and as it was of importance to accept the invitation of the pos- sessors of such charming eyes, we joined their party. In these gardens, we saw a very large rhinoceros, wliich broke his cage of iron, and made a dreadful noise ; many of the attendants followed him, till he became tired, when they seized him, and restored him to his cage. We also beheld many wonderful and strange beasts and birds, which are indescribable. Afterwards we went to the Bazaars, and gazed at the different specimens of English art. Verily every thing that we saw astonished us. How wonderfully they conduct their trade ! In a jeweller's shop we saw a lady's belt of brilliant diamonds, which THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 141 was ordered by a lady of rank, who paid for its work alone, 8000 tomans. From this you may imagine the value of the articles in their shops. Afterwards we went to a large and lofty edifice which was built by Government for the public. This place is adorned with many splendid pictures. Every person is allowed to enter gratis. The imiumerable and beautiful pictures that we saw here are beyond description. There is also in this place, a picture of Jesus, the son of Mary, (peace be upon him !) with his disciples, healing some diseased and dying persons. By the powerful influence of his Spirit, he granted to them restora- tion to health and life. These pictures cost 8000 or 10,000 tomans. It was indeed a very interesting visit. From this place we went to the house of a person whose business is to take care of fleas, and tame them. The relation of what we saw of these fleas at this place, how they are tamed, and taught to act most wonderfully, %vill imdoubtedly be taken only for a lie. No one would ever believe that these little insects could be instructed in such a manner. However, whether it be beheved or not, we will write down what we saw of them, for 142 JOURNAL OF our o\ATi gratification. These fleas are kept in a damp place, where they grow. They are placed in a glass case, which magnifies them exceedingly. There are some apartments in this box where they are quartered. They are broken to draw carriages, just as our horses are taught to draw carriages of cannon. Whatever details we may give of these fleas will appear incredible; however, we are determined to mention what we observed. Four of these fleas drew a carriage of ten drachms weight, in harness, and turned exactly like horses. Two others stood for coachmen, with a whip of hair to drive the rest. On one side of their box, there is a vessel full of water, on which there is a little thing in the form of a ship, with sails, and an anchor in the water, just like a vessel in harbour. About ten or twelve fleas drew the anchor up, others went up the masts and spread the sails, their chief or captain taking the helm ; and thus this ship of fleas actually sailed on the water. In another place we observed a wheel and a rope in perfect order. In the box there was a little musical instrument, on wliich the fleas played ; other fleas played on the rope, and some danced. THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 143 We observed also a large flea, which was a soothsayer, telling fortunes and future events. This was done as follows : — A plate is figured in lines of different colours, hke an astrolabe. Some of these indicate good, and others bad fortunes. There is fixed to it a kind of pointer, attached by a chain to the neck of the flea. The person who wishes to have his fortune told puts his question. The flea will then walk about, and the pointer wiU move. Whenever it stops, it will inform him whether he has a good or bad fortune. These fleas are fed on human blood twice a day, once early in the morning, and again in the evening. Those that are educated, that is, such as become tame, are well fed, and those that are not tamed, are allowed but little, till they become learned; and then they are sold, and purchased. The master of these fleas has one which he has kept for two years ; he would not take a horse for it. In fine, we think we had better stop, as what we saw of the curious and most wonderful acts performed by these fleas, would require much time to describe. Thursday, the 31st, we went to a celebrated 144 JOURNAL OF garden which is generally visited by distinguished personages. It was a beautiful, delightful spot, containing all kinds of elegant flowers. Afterwards we visited a place where there was a large balloon for twelve persons, and ha^ing witnessed its ascent, we returned to our mansion. In the evening, we went to visit the honourable and distinguished Lady S , where we met a very pleasant and delightful assembly. Friday the 1st, of Giamad the first, three hours before sunset, we \'isited an edifice in a large garden, situated on the river Thames. In this place young men are taught to ride on horseback, and perform other exercises. Saturday the 2nd, Sunday the 3rd, and Monday the 4th. In the day-time we visited some places of consequence, and in the evenings we went to entertainments. Tuesday the 5th, we went out of London to take the air at a town called Richmond, which is an exceedingly delightful place, supplied with pure air and excellent water, and surrounded by beautiful gardens situated on the river Thames. We alighted at an hotel called the Star, which is 9 THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 145 pleasantly situated in a very delightful garden, containing all kinds of beautiful flowers. Here we dined, and about sunset we returned to London. Wednesday, the 6th. I visited that place which represented the snow, and the village in the moun- tain, which my brothers had before seen : it is, in- deed, a very amusing exhibition. Thursday, the 7th. In the afternoon we paid a visit to Noori Effendi, the ambassador of Sultan Mahmood. He hves in a house pleasantly situated, with pure air and excellent water. We conversed a little time together on different topics, and he presented us with some leban,* which he had just received from Constantinople : in truth we were quite pleased to fall in with such a treat, and ate of it with a good appetite. Leban is a curious dish to the Franks, as they know nothing about it. After we had spent an hour with Noori Effendi, we went to see the panorama of a celebrated city of Spanish America. This city is called Larissa; they have a picture of it, just hke that of London • Sour milk. VOL. II. O 14G JOURNAL OF already mentioned. Verily, according to its re- presentation, it must be a very large and fine city: there are around it some lofty mountains covered with snow, and surrounded by the sea. What a wonderful sight it was ! As to America, which is known in the Turkish language by the name of Yanki Dooniah, or the New World ; it is one of the foiu" diWsions of the world ; but, according to its geometrical dimen- sions, it is nearly as large as the other three to- gether ; or, perhaps, equal to half the globe. The reason of its being called America is as follows : — After Columbus the pliilosopher had taken pos- session of the coasts of these dominions, he built some forts, and left some companies of Spanish soldiers, with artillery and anmiunition, to guard the country. He also very strongly directed the officers to watch it with very great precaution, and to be exceedingly civil towards the natives : then, with the view of returning to Spain, in order to be in person the announcer of these great and joyful tidings to the king who sent him, he collected all the particulars of this new world, and prepared himself to report to his government all the details. THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 147 He then embarked on board his ship for Spain. He was a long time navigating the great sea before he reached the coast of Spain. Now there was an officer named Amerigo belonging to the ship of the philosopher Columbus, who was with him at the time. This officer, on their arrival near the coast, when Columbus had retired to sleep, took a boat, and found his way to the capital, and de- livered the tidings ; for which he was satisfactorily rewarded ; and the new world was called after his name America. The continent of America is divided into two large divisions, North and South. It is ten thou- sand miles long, and about two thousand in breadth. Its North, on account of the extreme cold, cannot be explored, for it borders upon the dark places, and the Russian confines. From its extreme cold it cannot be visited, and no one knows what there is to be found there, except the natives who may inhabit it. Its three sides are bounded by the great sea, and the Atlantic. The surrounding sea separates America from Asia, and the Atlantic divided it from Europe and Africa. Between the coasts of North and South America there is a 148 JOURNAL OF large bay, called the Gulf of Mexico, in which there are several islands, called the "West Indies. The reason of their taking that name is as follows : when the wise Columbus of Spain arrived at these islands, he imagined them to be a part of the East Indies, and therefore called them islands of India. But afterwards, when more of America was dis- covered, and these islands were known to belong to America, the word west was added to them. Nature, as exliibited in America, is grand beyond measure ; its mountains extending from the North to the South Pole. One of the ranges bears the name of Rocky, or Stony mountains. Another of them is called the Andes, in wliich are some of the loftiest mountains in the world; one of them, Chim- borazo, being some miles in height. These magni- ficent mountains cause the immense rivers of America ; besides which there are innumerable large and pleasant fountains of spring water. The great rivers are named as follows : Mississippi, Oronoko, Amazon, Riodela Plata, Delaware, Ohio, Sekousi, Pedi, Santi, Savana, Bonos, Allhala, Bomos, and Missomi. The Missouri is 3090 miles long, and the Mississippi 2000 ; the river THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 149 Andelos is 3000 miles long, and 30 miles wide. In fact, each of these rivers is of an extraordinary size ; and, together, cause the most plentiful produce. Besides, in North America there is a lake of 680 miles long, and 160 broad ; and several others, which are named as follows : Michigan, Superior, and Ontario. In South America there are also four lakes, MarkaH, Walakia, Pitikaka, and Kesserac. All the inhabitants of America are of European origin. Every one of the European powers has a portion of America, which they are always en- deavouring to enlarge by colonizing, cultivating, &c. Besides there are several independent kingdoms which originated from Em-ope. They are now free in their government, and have a parhament, and general councils, and enjoy the most extensive liberty. They have too a large government, which is called the United States. Their cities may nearly be compared to those of London and Paris, and any art invented in Em-ope will also appear amongst them. Moreover, steam na^dgation was an invention of their own, and was afterwards in- troduced into Europe. Their form of government o 2 150 JOURNAL OF is as follows ; Every four years, they appoint a man to become their king, for that period of time. The following is the reason they assign for this prac- tice. "Our country," say they, "being a liberal and free one, and the property of the inhabitants, every one has a right to govern ; this being the case, let every man reign four years, and by this justice all being alike, every one will receive and enjoy his right." Their country is beautifully cultivated, and produces every thing eatable, &c. They have a large navy in the sea. It is, after the EngUsh, greater than that of any European kingdom, and perhaps even equal to the EngUsh, because there is more liberty there, than in any other part of Europe. This being the case, the people of Europe are constantly wishing to emigrate thither, and whosoever goes there, may take an unculti- vated and miappropriated piece of land, and cid- tivate it to himself, and build a house, &c. which becomes his property, and by this means he makes his fortune. The original natives of America, now that hberty is granted them, and they are no longer slaves, are many of them advancing in civiUzation. Some of them, however, cannot be THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 151 tamed, they inhabit the wild forests and caves in the mountains, living on animals taken in the chase, and clad with their skins. If any stranger should fall into their hands, they will kill him and eat him just like an animal. AU sorts of ore are to be fomid in America, that of gold is parti- cularly plentiful. The whole present population is a hundred millions, inhabiting fine large cities ; the panorama of one of which we have just visited, presenting a magnificent and splendid appearance. After this, we visited another city of Italy, in the same way, through its picture ; a descrip- tion of which, as being an artificial representation, by paints, &c., could never be conceived of by the human mind, but it must be seen in person. Afterwards we went into the Park, to gaze a little at those people who go out in their carriages in the evening, and then returned home. Thursday evening, we went to the house of Lady S , where we met several of the nobiHty and great personages of this kingdom. It was a magnificent assembly, where we also gazed at some Wonderful amusements. Friday the 8th, in the afternoon, we went to 152 JOURNAL OF the entertainment of Mrs. L . She is an ho- nourable, accomplished, and well-known lady. Saturday the 9th, the King went to prorogue the Parliament, to wliich we were invited, and had an excellent exhibition of their majestic proceed- ing in this matter. On Sunday the 10th, and Monday the 11th, during the day we visited some places of exhibi- tion, and at night we went to entertainments. Tuesday the 12th, we went to the entertain- ment of Mrs. V. S , and in the evening visited the opera, where we saw some wonderful and miraculous representations, which it is impossible to describe. Wednesday the 13th, we received some news from Government, from which we understood that our departure was near, and would take place the ensuing week. This day we took a ride on horse- back in the Park, where ladies and gentlemen go daily. Thursday the 14th, we visited some beautiful gardens, a few miles from the city. On oiu" way back, we met a crowd of people in a certain place, and asked what was the cause : they replied, that THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 153 there were several balloons just about ascending. We then directed the coachman to the above- mentioned place, a very large garden, where we saw a great number of women, men, and children, who had come to see the balloons ascend. A few minutes after, they departed to the sky, and gradually ascended some miles, till every one of them looked as if it were a ball in the atmosphere. They were five in number : one of them was defi- cient in its construction, so that the light air or gas which was in it, and would otherwise have caused its ascension, went out, and it filled with the heavy air. There were in this balloon a man and a woman, who both fell to the ground from that height. The bones of the man, we observ^ed, were ground like powder, but there was life still left in the woman. She was immediately carried to an hospital, and attended by medical men, through whose learning, and wisdom, and medi- cine, she was restored. However, such an acci- dent, of course, is rare ; but God's protection ex- tends beyond this. In the evening we went to the entertainment of Mrs. R . Here we met the beautiful circle 154 JOURNAL OF of the family, our hosts. With fine arms of jas- mine colour, hair of ambergris odour, eyes of the gazelle, and conversations sweet as sugar-candy. These lovely houries sat around us with their splendid musical instruments, and with sweet and lovely voices revived the heart. Indeed, here we felt the unpleasant feelings of bidding them good-bye. Oh, how unsupportable is the word — farewell ! how is it possible that the body can live \vithout the sold ? What a melancholy mix- ture of night ! at first full of joy and pleasure, afterwards full of grief and sorrow at leaving this dear assembly. Alas! for the changes of time! woe ! at being far from love ! Friday the 15th. We went to the stable of the king's horses. Here we examined all the royal horses, both for carriages and for riding. In truth, they were most distinguished animals. Here also we observed strange horses, which differed a great deal from the rest ; they have beautiful necks, two pikes and a half in length, their hoofs are exceed- ingly large, their manes reach to the ground, and on the whole have a wonderful appearance. After- wards we gazed at the different royal carriages of THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 155 State. In fine, every thing most magnificent is prepared for this king. On our way to our mansion we heard a great noise of dogs barking. I asked the reason, they replied, there is a house where dogs are sold, in fact, a dog-market ; here all kinds of this animal may be seen and purchased. In order to see this also, I dismoimted and entered the house, where I observed some most curious and strange dogs. Here, also, they are trained ; the dealer was ofiered 350 tomans for a pair of these dogs, which he refused. I asked the reason of not taking that price, and what could be the superiority of these two dogs, that they should be valued at so much, and what was their use. The proprietor replied, " There is no superiority of science or learning in the dogs, yet when ladies or their daughters take a fancy to a certain one, and desire to purchase it, then that is the value, and my opportunity for demanding as high a price as I choose, because she is determined to have it." Some dogs are sometimes sold for 1000 tomans. Saturday the 16th. We went and visited some pleasant gardens and other places. Sunday the 17th. We went to see the ship 156 JOURNAL OF which the King of England was about to send as a present to Seid Said, the Imaum of Muscat. Although the Imaum has been a long time an ally of the British government, yet in the year 1252 of the Hegira, Seid Said, as a proof of liis union of friendship, and his adherence to the British govern- ment, and for the sake of increasing these feelings, sent the well-knovsoi and most noble ship the Liverpool^ which was in the Persian gulf, and the sea of Aman, with other valuable articles, as pre- sents, by his friend Captain Cogan, to his Majesty the English Badishah. The King of Great Britain, in his way of kindness, has also presented tlie Imaum a splendid sliip, and Captain Cogan has been ordered to take her to Muscat. As they knew my friendship >vith the Imaum, they wished us to see this royal gift that was going to him. Government had directed the Captain to invite us to see the ship, and our visit took place to-day. We, with the captain and his lady, went out of London the distance of foiu- miles, to a place on the bank of the river Thames. Here there are some canals most wonderfully constructed for the purpose of building ships of war, where the ship THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 157 for the Imaum lay at anchor. Such adorned complete perfection we had never seen before. Although in size she is not large, yet there is no house so pleasantly constructed, nor did we ever see any edifice equal to her in beauty. She cost 160,000 tomans, and is fifty feet long, and carries ten cannon ; you cannot form an idea of the beauty of this fine vessel. Afterwards we went to the entertainment of a captain who has been long in the East Indies. On our way we observed a mag- nificent edifice in a most delightful situation on the bank of the river, and many ladies and gen- tlemen walking about, and gazing at it. In the same place we observed a great number of very old men, whose age showed that they were in- capable of work. "We asked what this place was, and who were those people. They replied, " This edifice is constructed by Government for sailors of the royal navy, who have oifered their services during their times of strength. When they arrive at this age, and can serve no longer, they come to this place, where they are comfortably maintained and clothed by Government, and thus they spend the remainder of their lives. When they die they VOL. II. P 158 JOURNAL OF are buried in the cemetery belonging to the esta- blishment. Their children are also supported and educated at the expense of Government, till they arrive at the age of puberty, after wliich they are employed in the service of their fathers." After learning this account, we visited the institution, where we obser^'ed innumerable drawings of ships of war, and of all their battles, and also of the kings who reigned when they took place, and who had departed from this world while they were engaged in war. Indeed, to describe all that we saw here would over-lengthen this journal. One of the former admirals, who was killed during the war with France, was on deck during the whole of the battle, and received a ball, which caused his death while firm and active. This admiral haring been so courageous on this occasion, they took the coat bedaubed with blood, which he had on, and have ever since preserved it most honourably and respectfully in a box of glass. In truth we were tired with only admiring what there is here to be seen. Afterwards we went to the house of the captain, which is pleasantly situated on the river Thames, and dined, and passed a very pleasant day. THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 159 Monday, we went to Dr. Money's, in order to acquire some information concerning the disease of the small-pox, and from him we learnt the way of preventing its dangerous consequences. On Friday, the 19th, as our departure was to take place on the following day, we went to the Foreign Office, to bid Lord Palmerston farewell. The Foreign Office is a very large edifice, con- taining many rooms. This is the department where the vizir for foreign affairs transacts his business. He attends here daily, from one o'clock until sunset. In the same manner all the other vizirs have different apartments. In this depart- ment there is a separate office for the vizir him- self, and several sitting-rooms for such persons as visit him. These rooms are also of three orders, first, second, and third ; the higher class of people who come to see him are shown into the best room, and so the second and third. He receives one after the other : when the person is called in to him he relates his business, and when he has done he rings the bell that another person may be shown in, &c. In fact, as long as a minister remains in office, he is perpetually 160 JOURNAL OF visited, and, moreover, has to direct all despatches and orders to all the different parts of the world. However we, on this day, saw him, and all our business was settled according to our requests ; we then bade him good bye. In truth, he was exceedingly friendly. In the evening we went to the entertainment of Captain Grindlay. His house is most pleasantly situated in a delightful garden, having pure water, with excellent air. Here we met a noble company of ladies and gentlemen, and some musicians. After dinner, some part of the night was spent in music and singing by beautiful ladies, and afterwards we re- turned to our mansion. Wednesday the 24th. Taymoor Meerza was accidentally taken ill with a fever, which pre- vented our departure. But two of our servants this day, ^vith some of the heavy baggage, went by sea, to proceed on their journey by the route of Damascus, as the heavy luggage could not be carried by land to Constantinople. Wednesday evening we were invited by Captain Cogan to the ship for the Imaum. The captain gave tliis evening a splendid ball on board. We THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 161 saw many beautiful ladies dancing ; in truth, we spent a very pleasant part of the night, and re- turned home. Thursday, the 21st. We were not able to leave on account of Taymoor Meerza's indisposition, and, by Dr. Money's advice, our departure was postponed imtil Saturday. Friday, the 22nd, was spent in the hotel, on account of Taymoor Meerza. Saturday, the 23rd of Jamad the first, or Sep- tember the 3rd, early in the morning, Fraser Saheb called upon us, saying that every thing requested from Government on our behalf was settled, and that nothing was now wanting ; that he was or- dered by Government to accompany us as mihmandar to Constantinople, and there to ar- range every thing respecting our further journey comfortably; and also that he was ready to offer us any possible service in his power for our pleasure, and that carriages, &c., for starting were quite prepared. On this day, about noon, we bade our friends, who came to see us, good bye, and left London. We were nearly four months in London, spending every other day in a p 2 162 JOURNAL OF garden, and every second in an exhibition ; not a day or a night passed without our receiving some invitation, and it was impossible for us to accept all that were proposed, so that such places as we were more anxiously invited to, and to which we desired to go, were fixed a month previous to our being able to accomplish the engagement. In fine, we cannot even describe an item of the friendsliip and hospitality which we received from the people of this kingdom, from the king to the poorest, from the highest to the lowest, from both old and yomig. During the short time of our stay here, we formed such acquaintance and friendship amongst them, that it caused all of us very insupportable pain to leave each other. Verily we can never forget these friends. All the time of our stay at Mivart's, which is the best hotel, we were the King's guests; indeed the kindness and friendship that he ordered towards us has imposed upon us an obUgation for ever. If a man wishes to travel and examine this king- dom, and desires to know much about it ; in short, if he should be a philosopher, and should everj- day and hour visit new arts and exhibi- 3 THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 163 tions, &c., were he to remain here a hundred years, he would be unable to see the tenth part. But I have done according to the saying, " If it cannot all be comprehended, it must not all be neglected." In this short time I have written what I have seen and can recollect; it will be taken into consideration that I do not understand their language. May the end be happy ! Saturday the 23rd of Jamad the first, or Septem- ber 3rd, 1836, an hour before noon, we started from London ; and after travelling forty-one miles, towards sunset we arrived at a town called Sit- tingbourne. We aUghted at an hotel, where every thing imaginable, both as to eatables and drinka- bles, was comfortably furnished for the conve- nience of travellers. We spent the night here most dehghtfully. Sunday the 24th. After breakfast, about two hours before noon, we left this place, and tra- velled aU the way until we arrived at a place called Canterbury. It is a beautiful city, sur- rounded with delightful gardens. Although it was now the season of autumn, nevertheless the ground was as green as emerald, adorned with 164 JOURNAL OF natural flowers. At this place we rested a little, changed horses, and set off; and after travelling thirty-two miles, arrived at Dover the same day, where we alighted at a large hotel, called the Ship Inn. Dover is a sea-port town on the English coast, situated in the channel which separates England from the main land of France. This channel is twenty-three miles across, and by means of several steam vessels communication is held four times a day between this and the opposite coast of France, which may be seen by the eye. Besides, we observed in this harbour a good nunibir of mercantile vessels. About sun- set the colonel of the place called upon us, mani- festing his friendship, and it was arranged that on the following morning we should embark on board the royal packet for the opposite coast of France. During the whole of this night a dreadful hurri- cane took place, and continued until the after- noon ; but it having calmed a little, we embarked at four o'clock, and in two hours and a half crossed the chaimel, and landed at Calais. Here we went to an hotel, called Dessein's, which is furnished in the same mamier as those of England, and on THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 165 Tuesday, the 26th, we left. In all our way we passed by and through respectable cities and strong fortifications. The ground was as green as emerald, with fine trees in great number, and every place was thickly populated. Here we ob- served the curious sheep of this country, which have a tail like that of a bullock ; the swine have very long tails. We travelled the whole of the day, every second, meeting with habitations and new people, until at sunset, after travelling twenty-five miles, we reached a place called St. Omer's, which is a town of France. Here we alighted at a very lofty hotel where we spent the night. Wednesday the 27th, we left the above place, and passed through a large city called Bailleul, and from this we came to another, called Lisle ; here we stopped four hours. A great number of people came around the hotel, simply to gaze at our physiognomy, and our costume. We in the mean time, had also a view of them. This city is the border of France in our direction. As to France, it is one of the celebrated kingdoms of Europe. Although in regard to size and popu- 166 JOURNAL OF lation, it exceeds England, yet it has not the perfect order of that country. Paris is its capital, which is one of the seven magnificent cities of the world. Its climate is better than that of England. It is bounded on the east by the Netherlands, Switzerland, and Piedmont ; westward and north- ward, by Spain, and the West Sea. It is 650 miles long, and 560 broad. France possesses also some dominions in America and Algiers. There is here more liberty tlian in England, but their form of government and political order is nearly the same as that of London, as to parliament, and their council of commons. The present King of France is named Louis Philippe. France contains 35,000,000 of population, which is equal to seventy kerrors of Persia. The standing army which is under order in this kingdom, amounts to 600,000 ; they have likewise a very large navy. The French during the reign of Buonaparte possessed the greatest part of the European kingdoms. The generality of the people believe in transmigration. Their language is different from that of other Franks. Corn and fruits arc cheaper than in England, and its produce is more abundant than THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 167 that country. Their flag consists of tliree per- pendicular colours, blue, white, and red. The French is the most spoken, and common in Europe. Every kingdom of Europe has a difierent language, but that of the French is the general one. The kings correspond with each other in this language. One of the most interesting regulations of the French government is this; when merchants export any goods from the country, instead of paying duty or tax, they receive from the treasury a grant of ten per cent, on all goods manufactured or produced in the kingdom. This is a wise encouragement to trade ; and merchants, on this account, are led to purchase the merchandise of this country, seeing that they receive one tenth of what they pay from government ; whereas, in other kingdoms they have to pay duty. After resting a few hours at Lisle, we left, and entered the Belgian territory, and arrived at a beau- tiful city, called Engliien. Here, in order to change horses, we alighted at an hotel, where about 3000 persons crowded to see us. They came in such multitudes, as led us to infer that they had never 168 JOURNAL OF before seen any such beings as ourselves. They brought ladders to get up and look at us, while some climbed upon one another to get a sight. In fact, it was to them a new amusement ; and to us, their crowding together caused a curious spectacle. After changing horses, we left, and travelled by habitations, and through the shade of beautiful trees and gardens, until after ha%'ing made a distance of sixty miles, we arrived at another city, where we alighted at a lofty hotel. Thursday the 28th, we departed, and travelled twenty-five miles through habitations and gardens, and arrived at Brussels the capital of Belgium. What a wonderful, magnificent city! of lofty edifices, the appearance of which displayed its grace and riches. Here on account of some accident befalling our carriage, and for the sake of seeing this city we alighted at a large hotel, to spend the day and night. Soon after our arrival, TajTnoor Meerza went out to visit what might be seen. He came to a place where there was a very large church, built 800 years ago. Tliis day being the commemora- THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 169 tion of a feast with the Christians, all the Arme- nians* of different parts, beautifully dressed, crowded to this church, and engaged in offering up their prayers. The sound of the bells of this church reached to some miles distant. It is be- yond the power of writing to describe the con- struction of this church. It contains a figure of one of the former kings, studded \vdth precious stones, and with a crown of jewels. This king was buried here 400 years ago. Having been a generous person, he is visited by them as a saint, to receive his blessings. They have also in this church a statue of Christ, (peace be to him !) made of solid pure gold, together with another of silver of the Virgin Mary, &c. These weak-minded peo- ple have a picture of the Lord the Omnipotent, having a long beard, with a rose in his hand, and looking at Jesus. This picture is so beautifully drawn that nothing can exceed it. They adore * The Armenians are considered by the Persians to be the nobles of the Christians. I believe that they enjoy this name nominally, (see H. Martyn's residence in Shiraz) because they are under Mohammedau Government; they would not be called so, if they were independent. Armenians and Nestorians are the only Christian sects in Persia. VOL. II. Q 170 JOURNAL OF these three images as their Gods.* In another part of the church, there is a picture of Paradise, and Gabriel with sword in his hand driving out Adam and Eve. They are represented as running away from the face of the angel who pursued them. In truth, it was most wonderfully exe- cuted. Outside of this church there is a very large fine square, where 4000 men, natives of this place, were buried in one day, having been killed in battle. The fact was as follows : a few years ago, there arose a misunderstanding between the peo- ple. The two parties rushed upon the royal arsenal, half of which fell into the hands of one party, and the remainder was possessed by the other. A battle immediately took place between * Mohammedans cannot but be disgusted at Popery, for surely it is a disgrace to the Christian name. Would God that other sights had been presented to these Princes, so that they might have known the difference between true and nominal Christians. It was exceedingly painful to me, when the Prince Wali began to argue with me on these sights, at the very time when I was reading and explaining to him the beauty of Christi- anity, as he and his brothers permitted me to speak freely, and thus I had the honour of speaking to them the name of the Prince of Glory, the Lord Jesus Christ. THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 171 them, and upon the first assault these 4000 men were killed. After tliis, four pieces of cannon fell from their carriages, the war was terminated, and the two parties made peace. TajTnoor Meerza made a careful examination of this place. Two hours before sunset, Sir Hamilton Seymour, the English ambassador at this capital, called upon us, and manifested his exceeding friendship and politeness. In the evening we visited the place of pleasure, which is the opera. It is of the same construc- tion as that of London, where plays, music, dan- cing, &c. were performed. Friday the 29th, we remained at this place until noon, as our carriage could not be made ready sooner, and after lunch we departed. Belgium was under the King of Holland until a few years back. It is bounded on the east by Hanover and the river Rhine, on the north and west by the North Sea, and southward by France. A few years ago the people of Belgium strove for liberty, and revolted against the King of Holland. The Frince of Orange, who is the son of the King of Holland, and whom we met in England, 172 JOURNAL OF liacl marched against them with his army, in order to suppress them, hut he was unhappily obliged to retreat. A second time he marched, with a strong, numerous, and disciplined army. The Belgians, now feeling themselves incapable of withstanding the force of the royal Prince, sup- plicated France for protection ; and in the mean- while surrendered to the Prince. France, taking side with the cause of liberty, directed a reno\med general, with 40,000 soldiers and artilleiy, to drive out the Prince of Orange from Bclgimn, and to render the people and the country inde- pendent. When the General arrived with the army, the Prince of Orange, not being capable of coping in w;u' with France, left the country, and returned to his kingdom. Thus Belgium became independent, and invited a prince of Germany to become tlie King. When this was done, the King was crowned, and ackjiowledged by the dilfcrcnt powers of Europe as independent. This, their first king, is named Leopold, and on liis coins is stamped this motto, " Union forms liberty and salvation." In sliort, tlie people of this country at present are enjoying all the pleasures of liberty THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 173 and tranquillity. The whole population is 2,000,000. Corn and fruit are more plentiful here than in England or France. The city of Brussels, on account of its beauty and architecture, is called " little Paris." One of the celebrated edifices of the world is the palace of the Prince of Orange, in this city. Before leaving this place, we visited tliis superb and majestic palace. In truth, we were exceedingly amazed at the display and the taste therein exhi- bited. When this country was in the possession of the King of Holland, he gave its government to his son, the Prince of Orange, who is married to the daughter of the Emperor of Russia. The Prince, on account of the beautiful situation of this city, the pure air, and excellent water, built this palace here. It is surrounded with most delightful large gardens of all kinds of trees and flowers. The building cost one million of francs, which is equal to four kerrors of our money. The mag- nificence of the precious articles which we observed in this palace are entirely beyond description. All round the outside of the palace there is a balustrade Q 2 174 JOURNAL OF of gilt iron bars three pikes long, and all its walls are built of beautiful marble, and are 100 feet high. The fiu^niture is of mosaic work, made of sandal wood and mahogany. There were also velvet shoes on purpose for entering the palace, so that whosever came thither on a visit found at the entrance a pair ready for him. No idea can be formed of the valuable and sumptuous furniture of this palace. There are twelve large candlesticks of solid gold, with twelve branching liglits, each of which cost 1000 tomans. The walls, are constructed of marble of different colours, and between each stone is a line of gold. The interior walls are all covered with rich velvet, each room with a different colour. The chairs about the different parts of the palace are of gold and silver. The statues, portraits, likenesses, and figures which are to be seen here are unequalled, and take away the senses. One picture of a young lady cost the royal prince twelve thousand tomans. We ob- served in one of the rooms a splendid specimen of a valuable stone, standing on a mineral pillar, the whole highly wrought like glass, which was sent by Alexander, Emperor of Russia, to the THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 175 Princess of Orange. In truth, it is a beautiful and rare present. We saw also another vase of a mineral substance, of a beautiful emerald colour: this specimen was purchased by the prince for 100,000 tomans, and many other such splendid articles attracted our admiration, of which we can give no sort of description. One of them cost 200,000 tomans. Besides all this, there are numer- ous and most superb and unrivalled pillars. In fact, such a splendid edifice for the residence of man does not exist in any other place under the sun. How- ever, when this palace was finished, the people here, as before mentioned, desired their liberty, revolted against the Prince, and by the assistance of the French, obtained their independence, and the Prince was driven out of the country without enjoying the pleasure of his heavenly palace, and with a hundred thousand feelings of remorse re- linquished it, and returned to the kingdom of his father. But as this palace was built by the private money of the Prince, the present King of Belgium cannot obtain a residence in it, it being the pri- vate property of the Prince of Orange. He there- fore asked the Prince to sell it, but he would not 176 JOURNAL OF consent on any account, for even, said he, " should it go into decay, I will not sell one stone of it." It cost him altogether sixteen kerroors of Persian money, and he now, as usual, keeps some of his servants there, to wait upon and take care of it. Many people come from nigh and far countries to visit this palace, and indeed all feel sorry that the Prince is not enjoying a residence in it. At pre- sent it looks as new, and in as perfect order as ever. In fine, after we had made careful examination of it, we left Brussels. As soon as we left tliis place, we entered a forest seven mih^s square, covered with fine large trees which afford masts for ships. It is a beautiful and pleasant place throughout the seven miles, the sun is hid from you by the beautiful shade of those innumerable trees. God only knows their number and value. After we passed this forest we came to a place called Orey. This is a fine city of Belgium, and the natives are very handsome. Here we observed a very large edifice, wliich was built by the natives as a memorial of their honour. We had now travelled thirty-two miles, and about THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 177 sunset arrived at a city called Tirlemont. We did not make more progress, because we did not start until noon. Saturday the 1st of Giamad the second, we left this place, and continued our journey, passing by ha- bitations and gardens, until we arrived at a place called St.Trond. Here we observed an extraordinary concourse of people, changed horses, and travelled until noon, when we arrived at a large city called Liege. This is the last place belonging to Bel- gium in this direction. It is a very pleasant town, the men of which must be drunk with the plea- sure of the countenances of the captivators of hearts.* In this place a noble river runs through the place, which is navigable for vessels, a number of which were sailing on it. The city is long. Here we alighted at an hotel, where about 20,000 souls crowded together to gaze at us. They were astonished at our appearance and costumes ; it was to them quite a wonderful sight. We now rested a httle, changed horses, and left. About sunset we came to the borders of Prussia. The * Ladies. 178 JOURNAL OF officers who guard tlie frontier here, after seeing our passports, permitted us to pass ; and at three o'clock at night we arrived at Aix-la-Chapelle, a city of Prussia. Tliis day we travelled fifty-five miles. Aix-la-Chapelle is one of the celebrated cities of Prussia : on account of its crowded population and numerous visitors, we applied this night, at differ- ent hotels, in vain for a lodging ; however, at last, in some way or other, we succeeded. On Sunday morning, the 2nd, we departed ; after travelling a few miles, we passed through a very well fortified city of Prussia, Juliers ; around which there is a good ditch, through which runs a river sun'ounding the town. We afterwards arrived at another fine city, called Cologne ; here we found new customs and costumes, and alighted at an hotel to breakfast. Their way of eating here is difierent. The master of the hotel, at a certain hour, has a table prepared with all kinds of dressed and undressed victuals. More than five hundred souls fi:om this city, nobles, merchants, travellers, and foreigners, at the fixed hour, come to the hotel, sit down at the THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 179 table, and take their dinner, which consists of every thing desirable. While they eat, there is music playing, and the whole company remain two hours at dinner, men and women sitting down together, and enjoying the society of each other. After this, every person pays the charge fixed, and goes about his business. In short, we also to-day sat down with them, to take our dinner, and to enjoy the sight of their affable manners in company. This custom prevails all over Prussia and Germany. The same is repeated every day, and yields the hotel keeper a large income. After an hour's time we left this place, and in proceeding a few miles, arrived at a noble and magnificent river, called the Rhine, whose source is between France and Italy ; it runs through Prussia and Holland, and empties itself in the North Sea. Its water is like that of the Tigris of Bagdad in promoting digestion. It is navigable for ships, a great number of which are constantly sailing upon it. The Rhine is 900 miles in length, along which there is not a span of uncultivated land that is not shaded with fine lofty palaces and strong castles. The gardens and orchards on both banks are innumerable. Such a 180 JOURNAL OF pleasant and delightful place is scarcely to be met with in the world. Its water is the best in Europe. Its air is delicious, and the land about it is perfect emerald. We enjoyed the odour of its roses and flowers all the day, until at sunset we arrived at a city called Bonn, where we alighted at a large lofty hotel. Here we saw a new thing, which is this ; instead of chimneys in their houses, they have in every room an iron stove, to which is attached a pipe, which is carried through the roof, where the smoke goes out. In this pipe there are some holes, like those in an urn. Whenever they wish to heat the place, they make a little fire in the stove, and in five minutes the room will be as hot as you may wish, and however severe the cold may be, by this means they will never feel it. In fact, it becomes like a warm bath, and the beauty of it is that it does not produce any smoke whatever in the room. Here we spent the night, after having travelled this day sixty-two miles. Monday, the 3rd, we left this place, journeying along the river Rhine, and passing by beautiful fields, and delightful gardens of lovely flowers and THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 181 delicious fruits. To-day we entered between two very high mountains, opposite each other, through which the Rhine flows. These mountains are covered with beautiful trees, and are finely culti- vated. The apples that we saw here on the trees were finer than we had ever tasted before. There were grapes in abundance. The carriage road along the mountain is most wonderfully cut out of the solid rock. In short, in the autumn season, the ground here is as beautiful as that of Radwon.* The fine air, and the beautiful roses of this place, are not to be met with elsewhere. We travelled on, continually passing by habitations and large cities, until we came to the top of a hill, from whence we saw a large city at a distance, on the bank of the Rhine, with a fine large plain, which was covered with troops. Nothing was to be seen but the glittering of swords, the smoke of artillery, the clashing of cavalry, and multitudes of people coming from every direction to see this sea, with its military waves. We asked who these multi- tudes of people were, and of whom this large, disciplined army consisted. They replied, that the • The place in Paradise for the heavenly ladies, or houries. VOL. II. R 182 JOURNAL OF laws and regulations of the Prussian government were, that all the people of this kingdom, from the king's son to the poorest, from the merchant to the meanest peasant, both learned, great and small, that every one as soon as he reached the age of puberty, must enter the army, and be drilled as a regular soldier for three years, &c. At the end of this time, he may go home to his business. In every city and town there are many barracks for soldiers, vdth their military uniforms and arms ready provided for them, and servants to take care of them. Thus, when an enemy attempts or invades tliis kingdom, if the royal sturrup* under pay should not be able to drive out a powerful enemy, all, both great and small, will clothe themselves in their military dress, and go forth as warriors against the enemy. In order that they may not forget their military discipline, and that they may be always ready to engage in battle, three days in a year the popu- lation of each province dress in their military uni- * Sturrup of a king, is a Persian, Arabic, and Turkish idiom for a standing army of a king; called sturrup, because the men always stand erect when the king rides. THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 183 forms, with their arms, and go out for exercise in a certain place. This day happened to be the appointed time for their drill. The troops of this city of Coblentz, to the number of about 40,000 cavalry and infantry, headed by four royal princes of Prussia, were here met together; in fact it was a very fortunate day which brought us this occurrence, for which we were exceedingly happy, as it afforded us an interesting sight. There were about 40,000 cavalry, infantry, and artillery, all in perfect order ; but the cavalry was very superior, with very fine horses. Indeed the Prussian cavalry is celebrated all over Europe. They are armed with a lance, bearing a white flag, a pair of pistols, a sword, and the infantry with a musket and a sword only. We had a very inter- esting view of them, and, moreover, we had an opportunity of seeing people who came to see this from different parts of the kingdom. We afterwards went into the city of Coblentz to take breakfast. We approached to alight at an hotel, but it was so full that we could not be accom- modated in it. A nobleman, however, of this city, on hearing who we were, invited us into his 184 JOURNAL OF house ; we accepted his invitation, and alighted at his residence. He offered us all sorts of refresh- ments, in some rooms which were finely fur- nished ; we rested here two hours, and proceeded on our way. Again we travelled along the river Rhine, passing by habitations and through fine cities, until at sunset, after travelling sixty-two miles, we arrived at a small town called St. Goar, where we alighted at an hotel, and passed the rest of the night. On Tuesday, the 4th, we departed, and, like the preceding day, passed along the river, gazing at some large strong forts which are situated on the moimtains, on both sides of this river, sea-hke, imtil we came to a city called Mayence, which terminates the Prussian territory. Prussia is one of the celebrated kingdoms of Europe. Berlin, its most noble city, is its capital. The climate is better than that of England or France, and li\ang is cheaper than in any other part of Europe. The amber mineral is found here, from whence it is exported to all quarters of the world. Here there are more students in science and literature, and knowledge is more THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 185 cultivated than in other countries. Their oculists are celebrated all over the world. Their cavalry is the best in Europe. The name of their present king is Frederick, whose standing army imder pay consists of 120,000; and, as already mentioned, during the time of war, if necessity calls for it, he will have all his people under arms, for troops. He has a council, and ministers to advise him in the government, like other nations of Em'ope, but there is no parliament or popular assembly. The whole population is 12,000,000, which is equal to twenty-four kerroors of Persia. The royal coat of arms is a black eagle holding a sword in one hand, and in another a dagger. After this, we entered Mayence. This is a very fine and ancient city, with well constructed buildings. The Rhine, which runs through it, is 750 pikes broad, over which they have constructed a wonderful bridge, sufficient for four carriages to traverse abreast. This city, with its dependencies, belongs to the three kings of Austria, Prussia, and the independent prince, the Duke of Darmstadt. The three powers keep separate garrisons here, and also agents, who consult each other concerning R 2 186 JOURNAL OF the management and the direction of the political affairs of the place. It is now under the govern- ment of the Prince Duke ; yet on account of its perfect fortifications, should it become the posses- sion of a foreign king, it might very much injure the kingdoms of Prussia and Austria, for which reason, the said two powers send troops here, in order to defend it. After we had entered it, we departed, and travelled the whole day a distance of sixty-two miles, until we arrived at Frankfort. This place is the bride of the cities of Europe ; on account of the figures, (ladies) the superiority of their handsome countenances, and symmetrical faces, this city has obtained the first rank in Europe. Its streets and quarters are very clean and large, Hke those of London, with lofty edifices. The river Maine, which flows into the Rhine, runs by this city. The natives here, with those seven other towTis belonging to it, are quite free and independ- ent, and have no king. The whole population of Frankfort is 120,000 souls. The kings of Eui-ope acknowledge their inde- pendence ; and, moreover, they take a very great interest in their welfare, and send ambassadors to THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 187 reside in it. Their form of government is like a parliament, that is, forty-two of the most learned men of respectability direct the government. These members are composed of three classes, nobles, merchants, and representatives of the pub- lic in general. They meet, and by their consulta- tions, give directions to all their affairs, both civil and political. They appoint a person to reign for one year ; this their law is acknowledged in Europe. We took up our residence here at a noble hotel, and at about three o'clock in the afternoon we went to a very fine bath near the river, which we enjoyed very much, and passed a very pleasant night. Wednesday, the 5th. News arrived here that the royal Duke Miguel, brother to the Emperor of Russia, was on his way here on a visit to his sister in HoUand, and other parts of Europe, and that he was expected to-day. While we were preparing to start, Mr. Koch, His Britannic Majes- ty's Consul here, called upon us on the part of his minister, saying that the ambassador had just heard of our arrival, (for we came late,) and begged that we would spend the day here, as the royal 188 JOURNAL OF princess, sister to the King of England, wlio is now in this city, would be glad to see us ; that, in the mean time, we might visit the different exhibitions, and in the evening meet Her Royal Highness ; he therefore begged that we would be pleased to have our feet moved into his house this evening.* We therefore postponed our departure until the next day. On inquiring of the consul what there was to be seen in this city, he said, " If you are in- clined to \dsit what exhibitions there are to be seen, allow me to have the honour of offering my services in conducting you." We immediately entered the carriage, and, with the consul, went to agardenofvery delightful and pleasant appearance. In this garden there are some beautifully built edifices, inside of which there are splendid statues of marble, one of which is of a yoimg female riding on a lion. The mind can only be amazed at this most beautiful and unequalled statue ; indeed it is so exquisitely wrought that one might say, it speaks. This statue cost 4000 tomans. After we had an exhibition of these figures, we * This is the mode of expressioQ when a royal Prince is invited to honour some friend with a visit. THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 189 were conducted to another edifice of several stories. In the first story, which consists of many rooms, there were stuffed skins of all kinds of land and sea animals, which have been heard of or mentioned in histories, or that can be imagined, all so cleverly stuffed that it could not be distinguished whether they were alive or not. These are brought from all parts of the world, and placed here under glass. We observed more than a hundred thousand different kinds, and were we to mention every one, it would occupy many volumes. All that we saw in the Zoological Gardens of London, we beheld here ; besides many animals some thousand years old, the skin of which was stuffed with cotton ; the sight alone of which would take the senses away. One of them, the hippopotamus, is in the form of an elephant or rhinoceros, which was found in the Nile during the time of Pharaoh. Its teeth are of ivory, two pikes long. Indeed it was a wonderful object to behold. One of the sea ani- mals that we remarked here was a fish, from the head to the waist exactly resembling a female of the human species, with a breast ; and the lower part resembling a fish. This animal was brought from the north pole, the sea of the New World. 190 JOURNAL OF We observed here another animal like a monkey, but having feet several pikes long, which was brought from the islands of the north pole. We also saw here a sea animal which was brought from the extreme parts of the Russian sea near the north pole, several times larger than an elephant, with yellow eyes and ivory teeth of three pikes long. Birds of all species, both large and small, some from Abyssinia, having two heads and one beak, and others with two beaks and one head. Some again with numerous feet, of an extraordinary form ; and others most curious, and innumerable kinds. In fact, it would be too tedious to describe them all. After we had gazed at these birds and animals, we were conducted to another story, where we beheld skeletons and anatomised bodies, presenting such a sight as can- not be described. In another story we observed a number of preserved human bodies, (mummies,) of persons who had lived three or four thousand years ago in Greece and Egypt. These were placed under glass covers, having their bones not at all dislocated, some of them are in sarcophagi in the shape of a human figure. In short, this THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 191 day we became quite tired with looking at so many things, and returned to our lodging. Afterwards Mr. Cartwright, the British Ambassador, called, and gave us an invitation to his house, which we accepted. In the evening after sunset we went and met with a noble and adorned assembly, consisting of a party of nobles and foreign ambas- sadors, and ladies of superior beauty, each of whom had a full moon in her face. At the head of the assembly was sitting on a golden chair, the sister of the English Badishah, who is named the Landgravine Hesse Homberg, with four noblemen playing at cards. When I entered the company, the royal princess rose, and received us with great politeness, honour, and friendship. "We also paid this queen all that was respectfully due on our part. After the regvilar compliments were past between us, she continued playing at cards, and we sat on one side. The Russian ambassador came near to us, and, after complimenting us, said, that the brother of the Emperor of Russia, Duke Miguel, was every minute expected, and that he would be very happy to see us. We replied that we shoidd be very happy to see him, if an 192 JOURNAL OF opportunity should present itself. After the Russian minister had finished his conversation all the other ambassadors of foreign powers came one after another to compliment us, and to mani- fest their friendship. After we had formed their acquaintance, their ladies came, and each offered us her polite and friendly compliments. After- wards these ladies, with full moon-like faces, made a beautiful circle around us. Ever}' one had a distinct language, they being of different nations. Khoojah Assiiad, our principal interpreter, who is of Hellenic origin, and a well qualified scholar, considering his youth, being well versed in all languages, and weU informed in all European man- ners and customs, translated for us and for the beautiful ladies hke a nightingale. In fact, he called forth the praises of all, for they were aston- ished how he could so fluently speak these dif- ferent languages. We conversed here on many topics, and it was indeed a very pleasant and noble party. The assembly was composed of the French, Prussian, Russian, Austrian, Dutch, Bavarian, Saxon, Sardinian, Swedish, and Italian minis- ters. After spending a part of the night, we pre- THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 193 sented ourselves to the king's sister, bade her and all our friends farewell, and returned to our resi- dence. Thursday the 6th, Taymoor Meerza felt a little unwell. In the morning the English ambassador came and bade us farewell. At two o'clock in the afternoon we started, and after travelhng a few miles, passed the Frankfort border. Here the officers of the Bavarian confines looked at our passports, and we then entered the territory. After travelling twenty-five miles, we arrived at a city called Aschaffenburg, which is a fine town, with a delicious country. Here we alighted at an hotel, and spent the rest of the night. Friday the 27th, we left this, travelling all the way over mountains and hills, thickly covered with trees, which cannot be crossed but by the roads which are made on purpose for carriages, (for in this country both the planted and wild trees are innumerable). In short, this day, after travelling fifty miles, we arrived at a large city called^ Wiirtzburg. Through this city runs a noble river, on which there are many vessels sail- ing up and down. There is a very fine bridge of VOL. II. s 194 JOURNAL OF stones over it, on which there are cut some very fine figures of their priests, to whom this city once belonged. Here we alighted at an hotel, and on Saturday the 8th, on account of our carriage having got out of order, our departure was delayed till the after- noon, and as it became late, we postponed our movements till the next day. On asking what there was to be seen here, they said, that during the time the priests governed and had possession in Europe, one of them built a pa- lace here for himself, which edifice is not to be equalled by any other in the world, and that the architects of the age cannot form one like it. After learning this account, we entered the car- riage, in order to visit this splendid and strong palace. In truth, it is worthy to be seen, and there is a pleasure in \isiting it. In short, what we had already seen in edifices of Europe, in pic- tures and statues, we here found much finer and more abundant. In one direction of this edifice there is a fine large court, and at the other a large beautiful garden, which had truly the aspect of the garden of Paradise, and of the meadow of THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 195 Radwan. The edifice is lJ^,000 feet long, and 800 broad. We entered this wonderful palace, the court and pillars of which are of fine mar- ble, with splendidly arrayed statues of human figures of the same material, which appear as if they possessed minds, tongues, and motion. On the ceiling we observed a picture, or map, of the four divisions of the world, so beautifully ch'awn, that they cost several thousand tomans each quar- ter, — Asia, Africa, Europe, and America, with the beings and animals which inhabit them. After we had gazed at this entrance, we visited the upper part of the structure, and here the tongue be- comes weak and incapable of recording. The least part of this palace must have cost some thousands of pounds. One of the rooms we observed, whose walls were overlaid with gold, on which were painted all kinds of birds and strange animals, of so many difierent species and colours, that the eye never expected to see so much. In another room, we examined a fine wheel of iron, fixed on the floor, with pillars, and props to support it, in the shape of a cross ; 196 JOURNAL OF to each of these props there is fixed an artificial horse, with saddle and bridle, &c., all made of marble, and by touching some of the machines of the wheel, the four horses will walk by them- selves : it was, indeed, a very fine sight. In one part of this palace there is a church, which was built 2000 years ago ; such beautiful marble pillars of a serpentine shape as are in this church, do not exist in any other part of the world. There are in it many figures of Jesus, (peace be upon him !) made of gold, silver, and stone of different colours. In short, we cannot mention all that we beheld and enjoyed to-day. We afterwards took a ride, and returned to our lodging. There is another edifice in this city, which is a very large fortified castle, situated on the top of a hill, which commands the city. Tliis was built during the times of the bishops, who endea- voured to fortify their dominions against all acci- dents. In fine, we had not time to see more here. Sunday morning, the 9th, we started, and travelled until two hours after sunset, a distance of seventy THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 197 miles, constantly passing by respectable habita- tions, until we arrived at a city called Nuremberg. This is a very populous city, having fine build- ings ; here we could scarcely find a lodging, all the hotels being fiill, as near this place there is a rail-road, which causes these frequent visits. How- ever, we spent the night here ; and on the follow- ing morning, Monday the 10th, travelled seventy miles, and reached a village, where we spent the night. Tuesday the 11th, we continued our journey, and, after travelling fifteen miles, came to a city called Ratisbon, where we breakfasted. Here the Danube, which is as large as the Nile, passes by the town, and divides itself into many streams, which run through this town, which is one of the large cities of the Bavarian dominions. The river, however, at the end of the town re-unites, over which there is a fine bridge. The gardens, on both sides, present a most delightful appear- ance, with excellent air and water. The source of the Danube is near the Rhine. It runs from the high momitains of Switzerland, between France and Italy. This noble river passes through the Ba- s 2 198 JOURNAL OF varian, Austrian, and Russian territories, and at last empties itself into the Black Sea. It is 1050 miles long, and its water promotes digestion. This river, below Vieiraa, the capital of Austria, which it skirts, is frequently frozen four months in the year, and in this state many carriages traverse it, laden, as far as the Black Sea. However, after we took our break- fast here we departed, and continued travelling, and by sunset had made forty-two miles. We now arrived at a city called Straubing, where we alighted at an hotel. Wednesday the 12th. We left this place, and about noon arrived at a city called Vilshofen, where we alighted at an hotel. As soon as the people of the city heard of our arrival, they crowded about the hotel, both old and young, upwards of 30,000 souls ; some stood in the windows, others at the door, in order to have a sight of the exhibition which we made. At this hotel they put on the table some fine grapes, of which we ate a Kttle. Assaad Alia Khan having taken with him into the carriage some bunches of these grapes as we were in a hurry to start, and he had no time to eat, had put them into a piece 9 THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 199 of paper, and placed them within the lining of the upper part of the carriage. Wlien going out of the hotel, and upon entering the carriage, in the presence of the multitudes and crowds of these people, my honourable brother Wali wished to take another cap of his which he had deposited in the lining where Assaad Alia had put his grapes. Brother Wah, not aware of the latter circum- stance, snatched the cap, and accidentally the grapes fell down before the people. The crowds understood the matter as follows : that my brother Wali had treasured up the grapes in his cap, which caused them to raise such a noise and laughter as made us feel exceedingly ashamed. We therefore desired the coachman to drive as fast as he could, in order to get out of town as soon as possible. Thank God, they did not know who we were, and whither we were going. This accident was the cause of our spending the day in laughing. After travelling a few miles, we came to a large river called the Inn, which unites with the Danube. There is a bridge over this river, half of which is in the Bavarian dominions, and the other half belongs to Austria. 200 JOURNAL OF Account of Bavaria, S(C. Bavaria is a well-known kingdom of Europe, and is colder than other parts of Frankestan. Its capital is Munich, and the present king is named Louis Charles. Their language and that of Prussia and Austria is one. The coat of arms of the king is a crown supported by two lions. The stand- ing army is 40,000 ; the whole population is 5,000,000. On arriving at manhood, every male must become a soldier for six years ; during this period he is exercised and drilled for a few days in each year, and in the intervals goes home to his employment. Tliis is done in order that all the natives may be united and capable of meeting an enemy, and of securing the country from invasion. The poor in this kingdom are more numerous than in any other parts of Europe, although living is cheaper than in other places. When we arrived at the beginning of the Aus- trian dominions, the officers who guarded the con- fines, and had charge of the custom-house at this bridge, asked for our passport ; after examining it, they allowed us to pass. THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 201 Account of Passports. The regulations concerning passports are as follows : — In all the kingdoms of the Franks, every person, from a royal prince to a beggar, travellers, or merchants, vi^ho may wish to go abroad, or to journey through any other kingdoms beyond their own, must be furnished with a passport. In every capital, there are residing ambassadors, or diplomatic agents, from all the powers. The traveller takes his passport, which is a printed paper, from the ambassador of the country to which he is going. In this passport, there will be the name of the bearer, his profession, whither he is going and whence he is from. Wherever he presents himself, if he has not a passport signed by the ambassador of the nation residing in his country, he will not be admitted into the territory. In every hotel and lodging house, the master of the house will present the traveller with a pen and ink, and a book, where he must sign his name. , All this is done, that in case the traveller should have run away from his country on account of some crime committed, he may, by this means, 202 JOURNAL OP be detected. The officers on every border are always watchful, and never neglect this duty of demanding the passports of travellers. It was by this regulation they demanded our passports, and allowed us to pass. To-day we travelled seventy miles, and arrived at a city called Grieskirchen, where we alighted at an hotel, and spent the night. Thm-sday, the 12th, we left our lodging, and notwithstanding its being the autumn season, we travelled through a beautiful coiuitry, green as emerald, cultivated with delightful gardens, quite paradisiacal. We passed through respectable towns, and after travelling a distance of sixty-five miles, reached a city called Linz, where we alighted at an hotel. Barberries, and nut bushes, and haw trees, abound in this country ; from the barberries we had some sherbet made here. Friday, the 13th, we moved from this place, and about noon arrived at a city called Molk, by which the river Danube passes. On the side of this place there is a hill, on the top of which is a convent, and a church, which was built by the monks 180 years ago ; and as it is a fine edifice, we spent an hour in seeing it. It is a magnificent THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 203 edifice, and cost some kerrors of money. It is inhabited by monks, who believe that any person who wishes to please Jesus, (peace be upon him !) and act according to his law, must purify his soul, by abandoning marriage and worldly society ; that he must dress in black, and go to the superior monk of the convent, who will receive and con- secrate him as a member. There are different orders of monks in these convents. There is also an establishment for females, who become nuns, have convents to themselves, and female servants &;c., to attend them. This convent is held by the natives as a holy place ; it has many bequests and legacies, from which the monks draw their living. The monk must spend his whole life in the convent, and be continually engaged in prayers. Male and female monks will not, and can never be married. This is an ancient custom among the Christian sects, but at the present time, some people of Europe are advancing in worldly advan- tages, and do not beheve in things which restrain human, progression ; so that this custom is dimi- nishing a little amongst them. In other parts, however, this order still exists in its ancient 204 JOURNAL OF vigour. All this aside, we to-day made a thorough examination of the convent, and in truth it is a fine edifice, affording a fine spectacle. The church of the convent contains such a quantity of gold and silver articles, of images, clerical vestments, &c., as is beyond the power of describing. One of the curiosities which We observed here, was the persons of two of their kings, who died in this religion some hundred years ago. Their bodies, which are nothing but bare skeletons, are yet dressed with such a quantity of jewels, that the bones cannot be seen. They are placed under glass, and covered with rich velvet. These men were buried here, and are now most respectfully visited and bowed to by the natives. One is called St. Kissnat, and the other Banoltiarist ; the convent belongs to the Benedictine order. The monks here are forty in number, each having a separate room. The library is rich, consisting of several thousand volumes. After we saw what was worthy of notice at this convent, we departed, and after making seventy miles, arrived at a small town called Parschling, where we spent the night at an inn. THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 205 Wednesday the 14th, we left, and after travelling forty miles, arrived at Vienna, the capital of the Emperor of Austria ; here v^^e alighted at a large hotel. On our arrival at this city, we met with many Osmanli people, (Turks,) which made us feel very happy. After such a long absence, thank God we again see some people of the east. An hour after our arrival, we went to the baths, and had a washing, and in the evening, we visited the opera, where all tunes of music and every sound which can cause pleasure, were played. One thing here was quite new to us, and indeed it was a perfect exhibition of art. A man dressed up as an ape, acted so much in every respect like a monkey, that no one could tell that it was an imitation. This he performed, by entering into a skin of this animal, or one made like it. Many other plays were performed, which were calculated to astonish the mind. Sunday the 15th, we remained at Vienna. The British charge d'affaires called to see us, and was our guest this evening to dinner. One of the new dishes which we had on the table was a glass VOL. II. T 206 JOURNAL OF vase, full of all kinds of fruit ; every person took of whatever kind he pleased, but all were artifi- cially made of ice — so perfect, that nobody could distinguish between them and nature. After dinner we went to the house of pleasure, (the opera) hke that of London. Daughters of the race of the houries, with moonlike faces — quite a Paradise of themselves — were present at this assembly, playing and reviving the heart by their dancing movements, putting the sense and the heart into two different conditions, for the first was astonished, while the latter was nourished. In short, to describe all this to the poor mifortu- nate who has not seen it, will be too lengthened a story for my book ; and after all he will be no- thing the better — he must come and miderstand for himself. Monday the 16th, we changed our dress, in order to walk about the streets and bazaars, and were, from morning until three o'clock in the afternoon, engaged in gazing at the wonderful and rich articles here displayed, and admiring the fine edifices and strong lofty buildings. THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 207 Tuesday the 17th, we went out also through the bazaars, and in the evening we visited the opera, with which the eye is never weary. Wednesday the 18th, we went to the armoury of the Emperor of Austria, which has existed in its present state for several thousand years. All kinds of arms are here arranged in such beautiful order, that the mind cannot but be astonished. Every one of the Caesars who succeeded his pre- decessor added some arms and splendour to this place, and all the spoils which the rulers of this kingdom have obtained in their battles and victo- ries from the conquered, and all the arms and standards that have fallen into their hands, are placed in this house in the most beautiful order, and make it quite complete. There are here likewise portraits of their nobles and heroes, in their ancient costume, with their armour and their helmets placed round the house. Some of the arms are 5000 years old, when the world was young, and men were like beasts. In- deed, the curious arms that they then had, and which are now to be seen here, show that they were such. How much soever I may be inclined 208 JOURNAL OF to describe these different kinds of arms, I am un- able to do so, for there are many thousand kinds and forms. Whatever may be imagined, or has been mentioned in history, is to be seen here in its original state. In truth, what there is here to be seen is most curious and wonderful. At this place we met Captain M'Wamolt, who had just arrived from Hindostan, through Persia, and speaks the Persian language. We formed his acquaintance, and brought him with us to our lodging, and from him we learnt the present state of Iran, &c. Mr. Eraser, the charge d'affaires of the English ambassador at this Court, called to see us, and it being about dinner time, we asked him to dine with us, and so conversed together. Thursday the 19th, we started from Vienna, and by travelling at full speed, by sunset we arrived at a village of Hungary. Here we rested two hours, took dinner, and departed. We tra- velled all night long, and the next day, Friday, at noon, arrived at Pest, the capital of Himgary, and here we alighted at an hotel. During this night and day we travelled 170 miles. THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 209 Account of Hungary. Hungary was formerly an independent king- dom of Europe, ruled by its own sovereigns, and was numbered among the principal European powers. But not long ago it came under the dominion of the Emperor of Austria, who directs all the necessary concerns relating to this country. The Emperor's agreement with the Hungarians is this, that instead of paying taxes and duties, they shall form a part of his army. The Hungarian soldiers are very active and courageous. The people of Hungary are of Persian origin, and anciently settled in this country ; even at pre- sent their dialect has a great similarity with the ancient Persian. Although all the people of Germany claim the same descent, yet the Hunga- rians are, without doubt, of that origin ; however, God alone knows the reality. Pest is a lovely and delightful city ; the river Danube runs through it, over wliich there is a very ffne bridge. The climate of tliis place is warmer than other parts of Europe, and much T 2 210 JOURNAL OF like that of Persia. Its population consists of 120,000 souls. We spent a day and a night in this city, and on Saturday the 2 1st, we again set off. Here a thirsty land, without water or green, presented itself before us. Our carriage every now and then sunk in the sand, and we were obliged to get out, in order to extricate it. This continued so all the day long, together with a thousand troubles, and myriads of bitter acci- dents, till three hours after sunset, when we ar- rived at a village, where we alighted at a place, and obtained a poor dinner. Tliis day we travelled fifty miles. On Sunday tlie 22nd, we left, and met v^ith a worse road than that of the day before, entirely of sand. Wc were constantly rising and falling in this desert, being obliged to walk almost all the time, till we became quite powerless ; the horses of our carriage were also every now and then down in the sand. At noon we arrived at a vil- lage, where we changed horses. Here we got a little rest under the shade of its trees, for we had undergone a great deal. THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 211 At the time of starting Assaad Alia Khan was asleep under a tree, and we set off without once thinking of him ; until, after proceeding a few miles, it was known that he had been left behind in that desert, where there was no water. Unfortunate Assaad Alia Khan, after walking fast for about two hours, at length reached us, just ready to perish. We travelled on foot the whole of the day in this desert, and by four hours after sunset arrived at a ruined village. We were almost dead from the sufferings we had endured this day, both from walk- ing and hunger, and our eyes had well nigh lost their sight. Besides, we had to wait for our dinner till nearly daybreak, when they presented us with some old beef, which, after all, was not half cooked ; however, we ate it. This day we tra- velled forty miles. Monday the 23rd. Mr. Fraser's lady was indisposed on account of having eaten the uncooked meat, so we stopped at this village for her until noon. In the afternoon we started: and, after travelling ten miles, arrived at a city of Hungary called Szegedin. Here we spent the remainder of the day and the 212 JOURNAL OF night, being quite fatigued with the hardships of the preceding day. A large river runs through this, over which there is built a wooden bathing- house, where we had a bath. Tuesday the 2ith. Before noon we departed; and, after travelling a few niiles, arrived at a large river called the Teiss, which we crossed in a large boat- We continued our travelling tiU tlu-ee hours after sunset; we had made fifty miles, and arrived at a to^^'n called Komlos, where we alighted at an inn, and spent the night. At this inn we saw a ver}- large dog, as large as a bullock: such an animal we had never seen before. Multitudes of people come from great distances to see tliis creature. Wednesday the 25th. We left this place ; and about noon we arrived at a town called Temeswar, which is very strongly fortified with a wall and castle. Here we observed many people belonging to Turkey. After dinner we departed, and con- tinued travelling for sixty-five miles ; when, at about three hours after sunset, we arrived at a village called Rimagoros. Here we alighted at an inn, and spent the remainder of the night. Thursday the 26th. We set ofi"; and, after THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 213 making a distance of forty -five miles, arrived at a village called Vimzink, which is situated by a mountain. Friday the 27th. "We departed. A mountain- ous tract was now before us, but the road was very skilfully cut out in the mountains ; well adapted for the easy passage of carriages. An hour after noon we quitted the Hungarian territory, and entered that of Transylvania. What we saw of Hungary was not in that fine order in which we found other parts of Europe, nor are the people here to be reckoned of the same class as other Franks. The grain, how- ever, is plentiful, and their cattle are very fine. To-day, after travelling fifty miles, we arrived at the village of Kerzo, where we spent the night. Saturday the 28th, we started. This day our way lay through mountains and hills ; and, after making fifty-five miles, we arrived at a city called Hermanstadt, the capital of Transylvania, which is also a part of the Austrian empire. Sunday the 29th. We spent the day at this place. We had desired to go to Bucharest, by the route of Cronstadt ; but, being informed that the plague was in our way, and that it was raging at 214 JOURNAL OF Constantinople, we changed our plan by going direct to Bucharest, notwithstanding its mountain- ous road. Monday, the 1st of Rajab. We set off; and after travelling a few miles, arrived at the begin- ning of the mountains, which were very rugged ; yet, notwithstanding, there are roads cut out of the rock for carriages to pass. To the one side of the valley, there is a deep ravine, through which a river runs. The eagle could not soar as high as some parts of this mountain, nor could the black eagle see the top of them ; however, we passed the most difficult part of the roads, and a little before noon, came to a pass between two high mountains which the river crosses. Here the Austrian terri- tory terminates, and that of Walachia begins. At this place there are some buildings for the officers who guard, and direct the quarantine. Every person who comes from the East must perform ten days' (juarantine, the order and regulation of which have been already mentioned in the account of Maha. THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 215 Account of Austria, S(C. The kingdom of Austria, which is known by the name of Namsseh, is one of the great and re- spected parts of Europe. The climate is very cold. It is bounded eastward by Moldavia and Walachia, two kingdoms which are known by the Arabs of Boghdan and Falack; westward, by Piedmont, Switzerland, and Bavaria. Its northern boundary extends to Poland and Bavaria, and it is bounded on the south by the Ottoman territories, the Venetian sea, and Italy. The river Danube, which is the largest in Europe, passes through the greatest part of this empire. The coat of arms of this emperor is two eagles, between which is a crown ; each of these eagles has also a crown on his head, and in the claw of one is a sword, and in that of the other a ball, which indicates the terrestrial globe. The three crowns denote that the emperor possesses three large kingdoms, \nz., Austria, Bohemia, and Hungary. The whole population amounts to 33,000,000, and the stand- ing army under orders is 300,000, consisting of cavalry, infantry, and artillery, &:c. The annual 216 JOURNAL OF revenue of the royal treasury is eight kerrors. The name of the present badishah is Ferdinand. The capital of this kingdom is Vienna, which is in Austria, and is one of the seven celebrated cities of the world. The population of Vienna is 370,000 souls. They have not in this kingdom a Parliament of Commons, as in other parts of Europe ; the direction and management of the pubUc affairs is in the hands of vizirs, especially the prime minister, who is a very clever man, and celebrated all over the world. He is about ninety years old, and the people of this empire have great confidence in him. The Badishah of Austria is despotic, and may do whatever he thinks proper in the affairs of government. Formerly frequent wars took place between the Ottoman Sultans and the Austrian Caesars ; sometimes the Austrian em- pire was taken by the Ottomans, and held in their possession, until other kings of Europe assisted Austria and retook the kingdom. On account of the frequency of war between these two kingdoms, the Austrians, for the better security of their money, goods, and families, con- structed a very strong wall, fifty pikes wide, round THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 217 the city of Vienna, and completely fortified it in all directions. For this cause also their houses are very strongly built, and the streets narrow. Without the walls there are gardens, and other buildings. Napoleon, who is kno^^^l by the name of Buonaparte, after several battles, took posses- sion of this capital, and married the daughter of its king, who bears the title of emperor. Any foreign European, in the Frank costume, who may visit the city of Vienna, can only remain twenty- four hours ; if he wishes to remain longer, he must give a respectable guarantee for his conduct during his stay, otherwise he will be sent away. This regulation appHes to European foreigners, for there is nothing of the kind in regard to other strangers. Besides this, there are many other regulations in this kingdom ; but, in order to shorten the accomit, let what has already men- tioned be sufiicient. Well, when we arrived at the place of the entrance into the Walachian ter- ritory, Alexander, the Prince of Walacha, having learned of our coming to his country, sent one of his officers to meet us, with a few horsemen and footmen, and with several horses to draw our car- VOL. II. u 218 JOURNAL OF riage, in order to facilitate our travelling in these mountains. They applied twenty horses and bul- locks to our carriage, and footmen laid hold of strong cords tied on both sides to keep it steady. In this difficult manner we continued our travelling, till at noon we arrived at the house of an officer named Yogha Bey, who is about 100 years old, and speaks Turkish. He was very condescending and friendly, and offered us some refreshments. .'Vfter resting about an hour, we mounted. We continued travelling in the same manner through these difficult roads, over mountains adorned with cheerful green flowers, with pure fountains of digestive water, which imparts an excellent appetite for eating. This day we took meals four times, for the mountains were delight- ful, and we alighted at almost every fountain, to enjoy the water. About sunset, we arrived at a village, where we spent the night. On account of the roads, we were not able to make more than thirty-five miles during the whole day. Monday the 2nd, we staited. A worse road presented itself than the day before, and the people conducted us with great difficulty. At THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 219 noon we arrived at a village where a brother of a governor met us, and invited us into his house, where we took dinner, and soon after departed. After proceeding a few miles, we met Mr. Lloyd, an assistant of the EngHsh Consul at Bucharest, who was sent to meet us, with some janissaries. We continued travelling, till we arrived at a large and strong monastery, dedicated to Mary. Here other officers and men sent by the Prince of Walachia met us, and brought us fresh horses. After sunset we reached a town, where we alighted at the house of the governor, took dinner and tea, and soon after departed. We continued travelling all the night long, and on the morning of the following day, (Wednesday the 3rd,) came to a fine plain, without making any stay. At about noon we discovered at a distance the city of Bucharest. When we approached the city, a company of cavalry, and officers of rank came out to meet us, on the part of the Prince of Walachia. They brought us a very condescending, polite, and friendly letter, inquiring after our health. The escort, with their flag, conducted us with all 220 JOURNAL OP honourable respect, until we entered the city, and alighted at the house of entertainment, which was already prepared for us. Here some soldiers were placed to guard the doors, as sentries. Mr. Colquhoun, the English Consul, was waiting for us at the door of the house, and after the usual compliments, we entered the sitting-room. The house was fine and large, and attendants were provided to wait upon us. In tlu" preceding two days and a night, wc had travelled 130 miles, through mountains and rocky places. It is said that these mountains were formerly impassable, and not at all capable of being traversed by carriages ; but that six years ago, when Russia brought her army against Constantinople, and took possession of many parts of the Ottoman empire, the Russian troops having to pass by Walachia, which they also possessed, levelled these mountains for carriages, in which work they spent many kerrors of money. The roads are covered with beams and planks, nailed together with large nails; in fact, the workmanship is very astonishing. At about three o'clock in the afternoon of the same day, we went to the baths. Seven months THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 122 had elapsed since we had entered a bath, which we now enjoyed very much. In the evening we went to the entertainment of the Consul, at his house ; where we were received by Mrs. Voshie, a very friendly and modest lady, a sister to the Consul. The table was furnished with all kinds of delicious dishes. Here we spent a part of the night, conversing on different topics, and inquired about the road to Constantinople. They informed us, that there were two ways to that city ; one ol twelve days' journey, by land, by Adrian ople ; but that all this road was infested with the plague ; the other was by Galatz, by steam, down the Danube, and through the Black Sea, which might be accomplished in five days. They informed us, moreover, that the plague was raging in Constan- tinople, and daily carrpng off many people. We now became quite perplexed as to what we were to do, and returned to our residence full of thoughts on this subject. Thursday the 4th, we wrote an answer to the letter of Prince Alexander of Walachia, which we sent by Khoojah Assaad, who was received by the prince with great hospitality, politeness, and civi- v2 222 JOURNAL OF lity. To-day we received farther accounts of the plague being at Constantinople, and decided to remain at this place, and to v^-rite to LordPonsonby, H.B.M.'s Ambassador Extraordinary at Constan- tinople, requesting his advice as to our movements. We vrrote to liim, and detennined to remain at Bucharest fourteen days, until we could receive an ansNver. In the evening we went to tlu- Consul's, where we met a company of English ladies, and spent some part of the night con- versing in different languages. Friday the 5th, news arrived from Constan- tinople that the plague was very >'iolently in- creasing, and that KXX) persons were dying daily. To-day also Prince Alexander sent one of his generals to inquire after our healUi, and to tes- tify his friendship. In the evening we were in- nted by Mr. Anderson, an English gentleman, to an evening party. Mrs. A. is a lady of un- equalled beauty, and the whole assembly was very pleasant. Music makes every person forget his home, and the shadow of the beauty of the possessors of hearts, and the brilliancy of wine in the glass, good health, and the sweet conversation THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 22S of ladies, will deprive every wise man of his mind. Wliat an assemblage of pleasure it was ! — and what a heavenly party we met ! We spent two hours at this cheerful lovely place in conversing with those who received the heart, and admiring the beautiful faces which shone like the full moon. Saturday the 6th. On account of the friendship which Prince Alexander had manifested towards us, the Consul proposed that we should pay a visit to his Highness, so word was sent to that effect. Wlien the prince was informed of it, he sent his gilt carriage of state, with some of his principal officers and royal guard to escort us. We entered the carriage, and the Consul entered in another, and we set off for the palace. The noble Prince received us most condescendingly, friendly, and politely. His divan was attended by noble per- sonages, and liis principal officers of state. The usual compliments being passed, we conversed to- gether on different topics. After sweetmeats and coffee were presented to us, he introduced to us all his nobles and the generals of his government. Every one of them pronounced the appropriate 224 JOURNAL OF compliments, which we returned. When we rose to leave, the Prince walked a little with us, we then entered the same carriage of state, and re- turned to our residence. In the evening we went again to the entertainment of the Consul, where we met the uncle of the Prince, an old gentleman who spoke Turkish and many other languages ; on tlie whole it was a very pleasant night. Sunday the 7tli. Prince Alexander, accom- panied by some of his relations and principal ministers, came in royal state with liis guard to visit us. The necessarj' and usual compliments having passed between us, he spent an hour with us conversing on different subjects and then left. About noon of the same day we mounted with Mrs. D , thf Consul's sister, and went to a seat in the countr}'. Tliis building is pleasantly situated in a beautiful garden, with pure water and excellent air. The garden is constructed very much after the manner of those of Paradise. In this place there is a fountain of fine water issuing out of a lion's head made of stone, and close by a fine church, which we visited, and also other gardens. About sunset we returned to town. THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 225 Monday the 8th. Some of the nobility here called to see us, and in the evening we dined with the Consul. Tuesday, and Wednesday the 10th. News reached us from Constantinople that the plague was raging, and that more than a thousand were dying every day. In the evening we went again to the Consul's, where we met the Prince's sister. This lady played music very well, and had a sweet voice. The usual compliments having passed be- tween us, the lady, who was fond of music, herself asked us whether we had a taste for it ? We re- plied, " It will be a happiness, and you will con- fer an obligation on us to allow us to hear it from you ; dear possessor of our lives, this will be our utmost desire." She then rose and played the musical instrument, and in the mean time delighted us with her sweet songs. Here we remained until midnight, and then returned to our residence. Thursday the 11th. In the afternoon we went with Mr. Colquhoun, the Consul, some other nobles, and a company of ladies, who possess Hght Kke the moon, to the country seat of the Prince's sister. When we arrived there, we amused our- 226 JOURNAL OF selves with fishing in the lake, and afterwards walked about the gardens with the ladies. At dinner time we conducted them to the table, which was here prepared and well furnished with every thing. After dinner, in the light of the moon, we accompanied the ladies, who resembled the un- veiled sun, and returned back to the city. Friday the 12th, Saturday the 13th, and Sun- day the 1 Itli, were spent in the same manner. During the day-time and at night, we either went to the Consul's, or he came to us ; and every now and then we >isited the gardens together. Monday the loth, Tuesday the IGth. News came from Constantinople that tbe plague was still increasing, and more than a thousand persons were perishing daily. On hearing this account we were quite perplexed as to what course to pur- sue. Unfortunate people ! after an absence of two years, what arc we now to do with this incurable disease? Sometimes we thought of going to Con- stantinople, but all the dangers of the plague that might befall us, presented themselves to our minds. Almost in the same moment we thought of again risking ourselves in a ship, and of going to some THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 227 part in the Mediterranean. At other times the wisdom of the mind was occupied in changing and forming projects, of going by way of Greece to end this embarrassment. In fact, every day we spent sorrowing, and every night in changing thoughts, and could not tell what to do, where to go, or where to stop, in order to avoid the frightful road, and the terrible disease. We however trusted upon the Lord, who gives every thing, and delivers from every difficulty, and stopped at Bucharest waiting for fresh news. Wednesday the 17th, Thursday the 18th, Fri- day the 19th, and Saturday the 20th, were spent in going into the country, and \dsiting friends, while we were all the time anxious to hear from Constantinople. Sunday the 21st, Monday the 22nd. Letters arrived from Lord Ponsonby to the Consul, saying, that (thank God!) the plague at Constantinople was diminishing very much, and that his Imperial Majesty Sultan Mahmood, after hearing of the arrival of the royal princes, had ordered a palace of his at Yanld koi to be prepared for their re- 228 JOURNAL OF ception; that Najaf Bey, a great officer of govern- ment, was appointed to be our hirkamander, and that, by his extremely kind and gracious order, every thing was made ready for our reception. When we heard tliis news we were exceedingly glad and happy, and now waited only the arrival of the steam-vessel at Galatz, by which we had concluded to go. Tuesday the 23rd, and Wednesday the 24th, we spent at Bucharest. During these two days the Divine mercy (rain!) did not stop, but con- tinued incessantly falling, wliich caused a very severe cold. Thursday the 2;5th. The snow fell plentifully, and it was severely cold ; this will put an end to the plague. During these days we were getting ready for starting. Friday the 2Gth, and Saturday the 27th. Wali was seized with an accidental illness. Sunday the 28th, was a great feast with the Christian sects. Multitudes of people came from different parts of Wulachia to the capital. Both men and women were beautifully clad in rich THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 229 dresses, and entered their churches and places of worship to commemorate this feast. It was alto- gether worth seeing. Monday the 29th. I arose up early as usual, and, after offering up morning prayers, ordered a hookah. It now became known that the bowl of the pipe was stolen, for we sought after it in every part of the house, and could not find it. By our house was a sort of ruined place, which was made into a sort of poor garden, where all the dirt was thrown. As Taymoor Meerza was walking about this garden, having with him two dogs, which he had bought at Vienna at a dear price, for doing which we had ridiculed and teazed him ; these two dogs observing their master looking about as though he had lost something, and was seeking after it, began also to search into every place, and to look into every hole, endeavouring to find what was unknown to them. These creatures continued tearing up the ground, and seeking every where, until blood came out of their noses. We endea- voured to make them quiet and desist, but it was all useltJss ; they still went on in the same manner, examining every place around them. At last we VOL. II. X 230 JOURNAL OF became tired, and sat under a tree. After a few minutes, one of the dogs came to Taymoor Meerza and ran back to the ruin. As we did not take any notice of this, the dog came again, and returned to the ruin a second time, but still we did not notice the dog's anxiety. When the dog came the third time, he took hold of the end of Taymoor's dress ; I then told Taymoor Meerza to go with the dog, and see what he wished to point out. Taymoor Meerza went, and when he entered into the ruin, he saw in the dunghill something pro- ducing a light like jewels. When Taymoor Meerza had examined what it was, he found it arose from a quantity of our goods to the value of 2000 tomans, which one of our servants had stolen, and buried in this place. We took them, thanking God for such a favour. The cursed, saltless serv'ant, who did this, was one whom we had kept for many years, and was constantly be- nefited by our favours. Some of the things he had already sold. However, we were rejoiced at this occurrence, and at night sat together reading and conversing upon different things. Brother Wall had been restored to health, but to-night he THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 231 felt a little pain in his throat, yet he did not regard it, but remained with us until late, when every one retired to bed. As it is my custom to retire without a hght, always extinguishing it be- fore I go to bed, when I awoke, to my astonish- ment I found a light in my room, and somebody falling at my feet; I thought that it was the worthless, saltless thief of a servant, who had come to throw himself at my feet to beg forgiveness, and as I was excessively angry with him, and wanted to give him a good beating, I arose from my bed in a bad humour, and in perfect vexation gave him a sound licking ; he did not say a word, and appeared as if he were dead ; however, I determined to put him out of the room, and so I lifted him up, but to my astonishment found that it was my brother Wali, who after retiring to bed had been seized with a dreadful quinsy, which came upon him on account of the great heat of his blood. The unfortunate WaH was so bad, that he was not able to pronounce a word, and could hardly take a breath ; he, however, had taken a light and had come to my room, but was so ill that he fainted away, and I taking him to be the lawless 232 JOURNAL OF servant, had given him a few beatings on the head. I was now exceedingly agitated at Wali's state, and immediately awakened Taymoor Meerza and Khoojah Assaad, but as a medical person could not be procured at this time of night, Taymoor Meerza gave him some gargle out of his chest ; so that, although we could not restore him, we pre- served him alive. At daybreak we sent and in- formed Mr. Fraser of the accident, and Dr. B , who is an old physician, and who was some time in the service of Yooseph Pasha, was brought im- mediately. The doctor said that he had never be- fore seen such a quinsy as that of Wali's, and that unless leeches were applied in half an hour he would die. Several men were instantly despatched after a barber and some leeches, which, thank God! were immediately brought, and the physician him- self applied twenty large leeches to Wali's neck. After a few minutes. Brother WaH opened his eyes, and little by little he began to breathe, after we had given up all hope of his life, and we adored the Most Merciful for liis mercy. The leeches drew out a good quantity of diseased blood, with which Wali was overcharged. THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 23S The doctor ordered that warm handkerchiefs should be hourly applied, and afterwards a poultice ; that the bleeding must continue ; and that Wali should eat nothing but apple, pear, and barley water. Wall's bed-clothes, and every thing about him, were steeped in blood, which, the more it left him, the better he felt. This continued till sunset, by which time about 1500 drachms of blood had been drawn from Wall's neck ; nor did it stay even at night. Indeed it was a wonderful spectacle ! We remained some part of the night with him, and afterwards we placed two servants by him, and we ourselves retired to bed. About the latter part of the night, I heard a loud voice from my brother Wali, and thought that he was calling the servant. Upon hearing him a second time, I went to him, to see what was the matter. I found him in the agony of death ; the signs of which were visible on his face. He was not able to speak. Every thing about him was covered with blood, for he was still bleeding. We, how- ever, succeeded in stopping the bleeding with herma, and in the mean time, poured down his throat some strengthening refreshments. Myself X 2 234 JOURNAL OF and Taymoor Meerza now attended him, and gave him some medicine, so that towards morning, thank God, he grew better. Wednesday, the 1st of Shaeban, the most noble Wali felt better, and by Sunday, thank God, he was quite recovered. Monday the 6th, Mr. Colquhoun, the Consul, who had gone a few days ago to Moldavia, on some duty, returned to-day, and came to our residence, to inform us that the steam vessel would soon be at Galatz, in order that we might be ready for starting. We then compHmented him on his safe return. To-day also a medical man called upon us, sent by Mr. Colquhoun. This doctor told us that he could cure all inveterate diseases, and that he was a student of an old celebrated modem physician, and head of a party of eleven medical men in Germany, who have publicly declared their opinion, and warmly defended their views; for the rest of the medical professors do not agree with this party. He further informed us, that the said old physician is ninety years of age, fifty of which he practised in medicine, and that his principles are founded on experiments. THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 235 and that he has written many books on the subject; but the pubKc at large have not yet reposed their confidence in his doctrines. Then this new kind of a doctor took out of his pocket a small box, which opens with a key. In it we found more than a thousand little bottles, containing pills as small as the head of a pin. This doctor said, " What you see in this little box, is what is contained in a large apothecary's shop ; my master has invented this art of taking the substance or essence of medicine. The apothecaries are angry with my master for bringing down the profession to such a small scale." At last he gave us some of his medicines, and said that we might use them in time of need. In the evening we went to the Consul's to dinner. Mr. Colquhoun, the Consul, offered to accompany us to Galatz on the following day, which was fixed for our departure. The Prince Alexander Ghica, of this place, sent us an officer of his, Colonel Jacob, to bid us farewell, and to assure us of his true friendship. Tuesday the 7th, we were invited to dinner with the Consul, in order to bid liis sister Mr. and Mrs. 236 JOURNAL OF and Miss F good bye. Soon after dinner we bade our hosts farewell, and started. The Prince having sent an escort to accompany us, when we got out of the town we desired them to return. We travelled all that night long, and the following day, in a fine plain, abundantly rich with game, and exceedingly fertile. Thus we continued our travelling during six hours of the night, when we arrived at Braliilov; we have made in the last seven hours, 150 miles. At Brahilov we alighted at the British Consulate. Brahilov is the last town of Walachia, situated by the river Bouzeo. Before the Russian war with Tiu'key, in the year 1225, this city was a very well fortified place, had exceedingly strong walls and castle. The Russians were a long time before they took it, the Turks being within the walls, and having the castle they kept out the Russians, and kept their fire up against them. The Russians at last contrived a ditch, and filled it with powder, and gave it fire, by which, 14,000 men were destroyed on both sides ; but it affected the walls, and thus the Russians entered the place, and took possession of it. The bones of the THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 237 perishing soldiers may be seen till this day about the town. At present this place is under the Prince of Walachia. Account of Walachia. Walachia, known to the Ai'abs by the name of Felakhj is a province of Europe. It is 250 miles long, and 160 wide. It is bounded eastward, by Moldavia, or Boydan ; westward, by Hungary ; northward, by Transylvania ; and southward, by Turkey. Walachia was formerly entirely under the Sultan of Constantinople ; but when the Russians, during their last war with Turkey, took possession of it, and when a peace was concluded between the two powers, this country, as well as Moldavia, was taken from Turkey on paying annually 20,000 purses to the Porte, and that they should be under the Russian protection. At present it is independent, and it follows a Russian policy in its government. The Prince resides in Bucharest, and has a standing army of 4000 men. 238 JOURNAL OF Bucharest contains 120,000 inhabitants, and the whole population of the country amounts to 2,000,000. And if what we have seen through this country, does not contain edifices so grand as other parts of Europe, yet we believe that through the ingenious management of the present Prince, it will before long become as good as other kingdoms in Europe. The principal trade of this country is fur, which is exported to all parts of the world. Thursday the 5th, we left Brahilov, and when we entered the Boydan and Moldavian territoiy, we found some cavalry, sent by the Prince of Moldavia to await our arrival, and to accompany us to Galatz. On the eve of the same day, we arrived at Galatz, where we were met by the Enghsh Consul, and alighted at his house. Soon after our arrival, dinner was served, and while at table, the Governor of the place, with some noblemen of the country, called upon us. The Governor was very polite, ojQTered us his services, and placed a sentry at our residence. Friday the 10th. I (here Reeza Koolee Meerza speaks) was suddenly seized with an attack of fever. THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 239 Mr. Colquhoun, the Consul at Galatz, brought me a German doctor named Beyg, who happened to be at this place on the occasion. The doctor attended me, and my brothers as well ; other friends came and spent some time at my room, in order to comfort and keep me in company. During the conversation, the subject of the indigestion of the water of London was brought forward. The Consul of Galatz said, " I was many years in London, but I never drank water, so that I cannot judge." This account was indeed not a little surprising. Saturday the 11th. I was worse, and the doc- tor gave me some jalap and an emetic, so that I spent the day in a most dreadful state. The Russian Consul called to see us to-day, and Mr. Colquhoun, the Consul at Bucharest, who accom- panied us to this place, bade us farewell, and re- turned to Bucharest. To-night, on account of my incessant vomiting, and the pains of my disease, I had not a minute's sleep. Sunday the 12th. The doctor applied some leeches to my stomach, which drew out some dis- eased blood. To-day the Austrian Consul called 240 JOURNAL OF upon us, and news arrived that some accident had happened to the steam vessel on her passage here, and that therefore she would not run any more tliis season. Sunday night, and Monday 13th. My illness increased, so that the doctor applied more leeches, and in tlie evening he bled me, and let out 150 drachms of blood. At night I was exceedingly weak ; during the last few days, while imdergoing the opening and vomiting medicines, I had not taken a drachm of food, which could prove a sup- port to human life, or contribute to produce the physical blood, so that I felt very weak, and was weakening every minute, and continued in this state until Tuesday 14th, when I became so ex- ceedingly debilitated as to be imable to speak or to breathe. This night the doctor took about 150 more drachms of blood from me, so that I was brought to the borders of the grave, and was almost dead. I lost both my internal and external feelings, and did not know myself. Wednesday the 15th. I was just as bad, with- out the least strength, and the illness was still increasing. 8 THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 241 Thursday the 16th. I was as bad as ever, and without any feeKng. In the evening, notwith- standing my weakness, my doctor, Auberg, gave me several sorts of medicine, and applied a blister to my breast, which took off some pieces of flesh and skin, and the same night appKed some more leeches to me. I now suffered a great deal, and was not able to sleep from the effect of the medi- cine all the night, and from suffering a most dreadful pain in the breast. Friday the 17th. More leeches were appKed to my breast, and a quantity of blood came out. In the night I was exceedingly restless. Saturday the 18th. All the medical men of this place and the neighbourhood were brought to see me, and to consult each other in regard to my illness. They all testified that my medical man was pursuing the right course. Sunday the 19th. I was, thank God, a little better, and the fever decreasing. I slept about one hour and a half. Monday, and Tuesday the 21st. Praise be to God, I was rapidly advancing to recovery, and I felt an appetite for eating. The doctor ordered VOL. II. Y 24^ JOURNAL OF that I ought not to take more than a roasted apple during the day, saying that my stomach was so weak that it could not bear any thing else ; I was so pale and weak that I did not feel my clothes on. But myriads of thanks be to the God of the world, and thanks be given to him who be- stowed his mercy upon me, for every minute I felt his mercy stronger. Wednesday the 22nd. I was as well as could be expected. Thursday the 23rd. The steam vessel arrived here from Constantinople, and brought news that the plague was diminishing, for that while lately 4000 persons had been dying daily, now there were not more than 2000; that 200,000 had already died of this disease at Constantinople, and that it had never been so bad as this year, nor was it ever known to last so long and to be so severe. Let us take refuge in God from the wrath of the Almighty ; notwithstanding our hearing such alarming news, together with the view of a dan- gerous journey, yet as our health at Galatz had seriously suffered from no ordinary indisposition, so much so that death was almost certainly ex- THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 243 pected from the nuisance of this place, and the filthiness of the neighbourhood, we determined not to remain here any longer, and thought it much better to risk all the dangers to be encoun- tered in going through the Black Sea and the plague, than to remain in this horrible town. Friday the 24th. At two o'clock in the after- noon the governor of Galatz sent us his carriage, which we entered, and embarked on board the steam vessel on the Danube. As to Galatz, it is the most dirty town of Moldavia, which country is known to the Arabs by the name of Bagdan. Moldavia is bounded eastward by Russia, westward by Transylvania, northward by Poland, and south- ward by Turkey. It is 200 miles long, and 120 broad. Jassy is its capital. This country was a part of the Ottoman dominions, but since the peace, which followed the last war with Russia, it has been placed upon the same footing as Wal- achia, by simply paying a certain sum annually to the Porte. They have an independent prince, under the shadow of the Russian protection. Its population is 500,000 ; Galatz is situated upon the river Danube. It is the most miserable and foul 244 JOURNAL OF place in the world ; tlie people here are very dirty, their streets are so filthy and muddy as to be almost impassable ; indeed I was astonished how people could live here and bring up children, for it is in fact the abode of hell. However, tliis day, with the greatest difficulty, we reached the river, and embarked on board the steamer Ferdinando^ commanded by Captain Anderson, who received us respectfully and honourably, and gave us very good accommodation. The captain is an English- man, but the vessel belongs to an association. This company consists of a body of very rich men in Europe, who have formed themselves into a part- nersliip, to nadgate the Danube and Black Sea as far as Constantinople, Greece, and Smyrna. Thus they have raised a large capital, and built several steam vessels, which are now navigating the above mentioned places, except that during three months in the year, when the Danube is frozen, they go to other places. The Emperor Ferdinand, of Aus- tria, is a member of this company, and on this account these vessels bear the Austrian flag. The Ferdinayido certainly is a fine and elegant ship. This night we spent comfortably on board. THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 245 We left Galatz on Saturday, the 25th, about noon ; the wind was favourable, and the sun very brilliant and beautiful. In two hours we reached the coast of Bessarabia, which is a part of the Russian dominions. Here we observed many regiments of Russian troops, both cavalry and infantry, companies of which were watching the coast, in order that no one from Turkey should enter this comitry, on account of the plague. All persons from Turkey, who wish to enter here, must perform quarantine. On this bank we ob- served, at the distance of every 1000 feet, amounted sentry, so that no one from Turkey could enter the Russian territory. When our steamer reached one of these sentries, he immediately accompanied us at full gallop, as far as the next, and so on, until we entered the Black Sea. This is done on all the Russian coast, which is on the left hand, the opposite Turkish coast being on the right. In the evening we arrived at a town of Bessarabia, where the Danube divides into two streams ; and here we observed several vessels belonging to the Russian goverinnent ; on the other side was the Turkish province of Tutktcha, which is governed by Mo- Y 2 246 JOURNAL OF hammed Pasha. At this place, on account of the many windings of the river, and being a dark night, the vessel anchored. Hossei Bey, a very fine, handsome, and respectable young man, the son of the Pasha, and other nobles of their country, paid us a visit on board, offering us their services and friendship. On Sunday morning, the 26th, the anchor was weighed, and the steam set. The guards, as on the preceding day, accompanied us, until we reached the end of the river and the beginning of the Black Sea. Here is a town called Kilia, where we saw many Russian ships of war guarding these coasts. To-day we entered this sea, yet, thank God, notwithstanding the vsdnter season and the sea-sickness, we passed tlie day very plea- santly. Tuesday the 27th. One hour before noon, we came to anchor before Varna, a sea-port of Turkish Roumelia. The captain and passengers went on shore, and, after remaining three hours, we again started. This city contains 10,000 inhabitants, and the governor is named Najib Pasha. The wind continued favourable until sunset, when the THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 247 waves rose up like mountains, and the storm was so violent that we felt as bad as ever, and continued vomiting all the night until the sunrise of the fol- lowing day. Tuesday the 28th. We reached the beginning of the straits of the Bosphorus ; on both sides of which there are mountains, with pure air and ex- cellent water, covered dehghtfully with green ; indeed, such a place is rare in the world. The strait is not more than a mile broad, and in some places it is less. On both sides there are some fine buildings and beautiful gardens, with fountains which run through the houses and flow into the sea. The mountains are covered with gay trees ; the cypress is very plentiful. These trees are planted round most of the palaces and houses, and yield a dehcious shade. There are, besides, many palaces belonging to the Sultan and Pasha, and such great personages, each having beautiful, paradise-like gardens. One of the palaces especially, belonging to the Sultan, which is called Astoray Taray, situated to the east of the strait, is in such magnificent splendour that we never saw its equal before. We passed by these palaces until 248 JOURNAL OF we came to the harbour between Constantinople and Scutari, where we cast anchor. The Bosphorus bounds the extremity of Europe, and separates it from Asia. Europe is one of the four quarters of the world, of which one is called Asia, another Africa, one Europe, and the fourth America. But Europe, over most of which we have travelled, though it is smaller in size than any other of the three continents, is yet more thickly populated than any one of them ; for there are not three inches of land in its length and breadth where you do not meet with cultivation and habitations, except in Russia, which is a vast country : some parts of which, on accoxmt of their distance, and others on account of their being so far removed from the sun, are ex- tremely cold and cannot be cultivated ; yet all the parts are thickly populated. Europe is 3000 miles long, and 2000 broad. It is bounded by the Atlantic, and is surrounded on all sides by seas, except on the side of Asia, where it has the river Don in Russia. Europe terminates towards the east by the Asiatic Ottoman territory, on the south by the Great Sea, on the north by the Frozen Ocean, on the west by the West Sea. THE PERSIAN PRINCES. ^49 The kingdoms of Europe which are governed by independent kings are as follow : England, France, Belgium, Russia, Austria, Spain, Bavaria, Portu- gal, Holland, Switzerland, Hanover, Wirtemburg, Sardinia, Naples, Rome, Tuscany, Greece, Den- mark, Sweden, Saxony, Nassau, Walachia, and Moldavia. Each of the above-mentioned kingdoms has a king, with a crowTi and mint, except those of Walachia and Moldavia, which are governed by Princes. There are many islands belonging to Europe in the different seas, the largest of them are as follow : in the Atlantic are England and Scotland, generally kno^\^l by the name of Great Britain, and Ireland ; those in the Mediterranean are six in number : Sicily, Majorca, Minorca, Malta, Crete or Candia, and Cyprus. Those in the Baltic and North Sea are also six in number : Zealand, Bornholm, Oland, Gothland, Aland, and Iceland, which last contains many curious and wonderful things. Besides these, there are a great many inferior islands. The rivers of Em-ope are as follows : the Danube, the Volga, the Rhiile, the Thames, the Rhone, the Tagus, the Neva, the Vistula, the Elbe, the Tiber, the 250 JOURNAL OF Dnieper, the Don, and the Dwina. Of many fine lakes in Europe those in Switzerland are the largest. The principal mountains are the Dofrines, the Pyrenees, the Alps, the Apennines, the Kra- pak or Carpathian, and Castagnat, or Chain of Haemus. The whole population of Europe, according to the last census of the year 1230 of the Hegira, was 182,000,000; these all profess the Christian religion, except a few who are Jews. However, to-day we arrived at its extreme point towards the east, which is this strait. Mr. Eraser directly after went on shore to sec the ambassador, and we re- mained on board the Ferdinando. The distance from Galatz to Constantinople is 400 miles ; it being to SuHneh, which terminates the Danube, 110 miles ; from Sulineh to Varna 160, from Varna to the beginning of the Bosphorus 120, and the strait itself is twenty miles long. The dangers of the Black Sea are very great ; yet, thanks be to God, we passed it in perfect safety. After Mr. Eraser had announced our arri- val, the Reis EfFendi, who is at the head of the foreign department, sent a trustee on board to us. THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 25l saying, " that His Imperial Majesty the Sultan, ha\dng been informed of your coming before youi* arrival, has prepared a residence for you, Yani Koi, which is pleasantly situated on the Bos- phorus, where there is no disease, and every thing made ready for your reception." We expressed our thanks for the kindness of the Sul- tan, and it being now late, we slept on board, and read the letters which had just reached us from Bagdad and other parts. Wednesday the 29th. We entered into boats sent by the Government, and landed at the palace which was prepared at Yani Koi. This residence is large, and beautifully situated on the sea, com- pletely furnished. Mohammed Nadi Beg, an officer of government, was appointed our Mihmander. On entering the mansion we were fumigated, with all our baggage. Thursday, the last of this month. Mohammed Ava Khoili, who is the Elchia of Persia at the Porte, \^dth some other officers, called upon us. Friday the 1st of Ramadan. The blessed Lord Ponsonb'y, His Britannic Majesty's Ambassador, and the French charge d'affaires called upon us, 252 JOURNAL OF complimented us on our safe arrival, and mani- fested towards us the utmost friendship and polite- ness. Lord Ponsonby is a thoroughly experienced nobleman, and a complete scholar, having spent all his life in political affairs and offices, and pos- sesses a perfect talent for every thing. After some friendly conversation they returned. Saturday the 2nd, there was a strong hurricane, and the waves of the Bosphorus nearly rushed into our residence. To-day some English gentle- men called to see us. Sunday the 3rd, Taymoor Meerza was seized with a strong attack of fever, and suffered ex- tremely. On accoimt of the plague in Constantinople and its neighbourhood, no one approached us, nor would any medical man come to attend on Tay- moor Meerza. However, we ourselves, by inspi- ration and the word of God, gave him some medi- cine which we had brought with us from London. The servants who were left here to attend us, on see- ing Taymoor Meerza's illness, all ran away, and the Shawhat Bey, the son of our Mihmander, learning the same, lost no time in leaving the house, and THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 253 we were left quite alone. We were now reduced to a most miserable condition, on seeing this, and the sufferings of Taymoor Meerza, and had no- body to comfort us, but the trust in the mercy of Omnipotence, who pro\'ides for and helps his ser- vants, and into whose care we surrendered ourselves. To-day Mr. Eraser came as usual to see us, with an English officer, who commanded the British man-of-war here. As soon as I informed them of Taymoor Meerza's illness, they rose up and de- parted, without looking behind them. This in- creased our alarm, and we were nearly perishing, without knowing what to do. At night, by the word of God, we gave our brother some medicine, and two hours afterwards he perspired, and the fever left him. He afterwards rose and sat up, and ate with an appetite. We now adored God, with myriads of thanks, for he gradually got well, and it did not turn out to be the plague. Monday the 4th, Gimal Effendi, the Naib of Reis Effendi, called upon us on the part of the Government, to comphment us on our arrival, and to offer an apology for their not being able to come VOL. II. z 254 JOURNAL OF sooner to see us, on account of the plague, they being in quarantine: that, further, the Government would be very happy to render us any assistance required ; that nothing should be neglected for our sakes ; and that, as we wished to proceed to Bag- dad, the royal Mihmander was appointed, with the necessary finnan, to conduct us agreeably thither. We expressed our thanks and gratitude for the kindness of the Sultan ; and Gimal Ef- fendi remained with us till late at night, convers- ing in Turkish and Persian on different topics, and then departed. Tuesday the 5th, nothing new occurred, but we were invited to an entertainment given by Lord Ponsonby. In the evening the ambassador sent us his boat, wliich we entered, and rowed by the different buildings on the shore, till we arrived at the palace. The ambassador used formerly to reside in the city of Constantinople, but his palace having been burnt a few years ago, the Sultan gave him one in its place at Therapia, as a grant to him and his successors. It is pleasantly situated, having pure air and excellent water. When we entered the THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 255 palace, we were respectfully received in a very honourable and friendly manner by his Excel- lency, and were conducted into a majestic assem- bly, and introduced to the honourable and accom- plished Lady Ponsonby. The dinner consisted of all kinds of dressed and undressed eatables. Here we also met Monsieur Gardova, the Spanish minister, with other persons of high distinction. Some of the party spoke in Turkish. The Spa- nish ambassador spoke a little Persian. After spending some very pleasant hours of the night, we returned to our residence. Wednesday the 6th, Thursday the 7th, nothing new occurred. Monsieur Gardova, the Spanish ambassador, called upon us. Friday the 8th, Saturday the 9th, nothing of consequence happened worth mentioning. Every day we were expecting to leave this place. Sunday the 10th, Monday the 11th, and Tues- day the 12th, were spent at home. Wednesday the 13th, was the birth-day of Sul- tan Mahmoud, which caused a very great feast in the great capital. To-day Hossein Mohammed Effendi called upon 256 JOURNAL OF US from the Government, and said that he was ordered by Government to conduct us, as a Mih- mander, as far as Bagdad, by the route of Diar- bekir and Mosul, and had come to see what was required, and what was necessary for the conveni- ence of our travelhng. Thursday the 14th, Friday the 15th, Saturday the 16th, and Sunday the 17th, nothing of import- happened. Monday the 18th, and Tuesday the 19th, we received no news respecting our departure, and spent the days in the weariness of fasting, it being the Ramadan. Wednesday tlie 20th, we heard news from Con- stantinople, that Kliooloossi Pasha, the minister of foreign affairs, was attacked by the plague, which was again increasing in the city. Tliis put a stop to our departure. We also heard that a royal Prince of Persia was coming to Constanti- nople by the route of Diarbekir, and his arrival was expected on the following day. Thursday the 21st, Friday the 22nd, and Satur- day the 23rd, nothing particular happened. We ascertained that the expected royal Persian Prince, THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 257 named Allah Wardi Meerza, had just arrived at Constantinople. On Sunday the 24th, and Monday the 25th, we sent Khoojah Assaad, our interpreter, to the city, to call upon Allah Wardi Meerza with our compli- ments, and to get information from him. From this day to Sunday, the 1st of Shewal, and the feast of Fatar, we were quite idle and melancholy, on account of our delay here, nor did we know when our departure was to take place. To-day there was a great and wonderful feast here. It is the custom in this place, to keep up the feast of Fatar for three successive days, which are spent in pleasure and amusement ; and notwith- standing the existence of the plague, the feast was commemorated, according to the usual custom. On this day the Prince royal, Allah Wardi Meerza, honoured us with his presence. He spent the night with us, and the following day, until sunset, when he returned to his residence at Constanti- nople. We accompanied the Prince in our boat a part' of the way, and amused ourselves by shoot- ing sea-fowl. We learned from his Royal Highness 258 JOURNAL OP all the news of Persia, and what he knew of our affairs there, &c. Monday the 2nd, Tuesday the 3rd, we again entered a boat and went to shoot some sea-fowls, but took none. From Wednesday the 4th, until Monday the 9th, we were idle, doing nothing all this time, not having heard any thing from the Ottoman Government. Tuesday the 10th, we were invited by the British ambassador, at whose palace we spent a very pleasant part of the evening. Wednesday we spent at home. Thursday the 12th, we went to honour ourselves by visitingPrince Allah Wardi Meerza at Constan- tinople, vdih whom we spent the night. On the following day, Friday, we went out with the Prince to visit the mosques and places of worship at Con- stantinople ; they are most splendid edifices, and of wonderful construction, which I hope to describe hereafter. Wednesday the 18th, Khoojah Assaad our inter- preter bade us good-bye to go to Damascus ; we were quite unhappy in losing his company, for he had now been to us more than a year a good THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 259 friend and a pleasant companion. We felt exceed- ingly sorry at his leaving us. To-day his Royal Highness Allah Wardi Meerza honoured us with a visit, and spent the day and the night with us. Friday the 20th, we accompanied the Prince to^ Constantinople,- and \dsited some of the edifices there. All this time we heard nothing from the Ottoman Government, and did not know when our departure was to take place, or what they had done on our behalf, for notwithstanding the solicitations of H. B. M.'s ambassador, nothing was yet settled, and our time was being spent in vain. However we passed a few days in Constantinople, and afterwards returned to our residence at Yaui Koi; we were idle and doing notliing until Tuesday the 24th, every day waiting for news from the Government. Friday the 27th, we received intelligence that a Mihmander from the Sultan was certainly ap- pointed, that the firmans were written, and that we most undoubtedly should leave soon. This news made us happy, and we awaited the result. Tuesday the 2nd of Zelkedi, notwithstanding its being the 10th of Pisces, the snow fell in great quantity at Constantinople and in the neigh- bourhood, so much so, that the old people said 260 JOURNAL OF that they did not recollect such a fall of snow at this season of the year in their lives. It was so excessively cold that none of us would venture out of doors. After having waited so long the arrangement of our affairs by Government, and now that all was settled, we were delayed by the weather ; which did not abate until Friday the fifth. To-day Prince Allah Wardi Meerza ho- noured lis vv-ith his presence at our residence. Taher Bey called also upon the part of Go- vernment, and said that he was appointed to be our Mihmander, that our leave was granted by the Sultan, and that the following Monday was fixed for our departure. Friday and Saturday. Taher Bey came to our residence with some boats from Government, and said that every thing was ready and prepared for our movements. We could not express our joy at these happy tidings, which gave us to hope that we should soon see home and friends. Moreover, our delay and stay at Yaui Koi had been to us like a dreadful prison. To-day the Hon. Mr. Fraser, who accompanied us as Mihmander from the EngUsh Government to Constantinople, came to bid us farewell, to whom we presented a valuable THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 261 diamond ring, for the sake of our remembrance, and then entered the boat with Taher Bey and left Yaui Koi. We afterwards landed at Askidau or Scutari, where we stopped a few hours gazing at the multitudes of people, and four hours before sunset set off. Constantinople is one of the seven great cities of the world, but in regard to its structure, situation, and climate, it is more dis- tinguished than any other part of the world, and especially in regard to its position, it is unrivalled by any other city on the globe. This magnificent city was built by Constantine the Great, in the year 330 of the Christian era, or 254 years before the Mohammedan Hejira, and was named after him. This noble city continued for a thousand years to be the metropolis of the Eastern kingdoms, for the emperors who resided in it ruled over most parts of the Eastern world, in which direction their authority extended very far. In the year 1453 after Jesus, it was conquered by Sultan Mo- hammed el Fateh, and it has ever since been the possession and residence of the Ottoman Sultans, to whom, after having taken possession of this 262 JOURNAL OF capital, all its dependencies surrendered. Con- stantinople is built on seven mountains, in a tri- angular form, and is situated between two long straits of the Black Sea, Kara Denkey, and the Sea of Marmora or Macmais. Each of these straits is twenty miles long ; the harbour of Constan- tinople is sufficiently large to receive 12,000 ships of the line. The external appearance of this noble city is beautiful and delightful to the eye, but in- side the streets are narrow and the houses mostly built of wood, and subject to fire, so that it often happens that a fire accidentally breaks out, and in an instant these large lofty houses, with every thing therein, are reduced to a heap of ashes — such a dreadful occurrence is called by the Turks, yaghin. It is on account of this danger that every one of the \'izirs, or pashas, has in his house a long minaret, where there are always some persons watcliing, so that when they see any fire break out, tliey immediately report it to the pashas, who then take their servants and attendants, and help in putting it out. The unfortunate beings whose houses take fire, may perhaps one day be worth millions of money, the next may be reduced to THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 263 poverty and made beggars ; this is indeed a very dreadful plague to this city. Most of the ancient celebrated edifices of Constantinople are going to decay, except the mosque of Agra Sophia, which was built by Constantino for a church, but was afterwards converted into a mosque when Constan- tinople was conquered by the Mussulmen. It is stated that when Sultan Mohammed el Fateh entered Constantinople, 12,000 Christians were killed at the door of this church. Such an edifice is not to be seen any where else, nor is there a mosque equal to it existing in the world. It is 270 feet long, and 240 broad. It would lengthen this work too much to enter into a description of the palaces, baths, and khans belonging to the Sultan. On the whole such wonderful mosques and splendid remains exist in this city, as are not to be met with in any other place. The large Mussulman mosques in Constantinople are 300 in number, each of which is wonderfully constructed. In most of the biu*ying grounds, the cypress is planted, which grows here larger than other trees. After ihe mosque of Agra Sophia, the next in order is that of Sultan Solyman, and after- 264 JOURNAL OF wards that of Sultan Achmet. The followers of Jesus have thirty churches here. The population of Constantinople is 1 ,300,000 souls. Its water is very digestive, and its air is exceedingly pure and healthy ; the best of its fountains is that of Yaui Koi. All kinds of fruit are imported from all parts, and much grows here. Corn is principally imported from Russia, rice from Egypt, as they do not grow sufficient for their consumption. All kinds of flowers are found in this metropolis. In the straits there is a kind of small fish, possessing a flavour that we never tasted before, and it is probable there are none to be found in any other part of the sea. The great people of this country are in general polite in their manners ; their meet- ings for conversation are carried on in the cofiee- houses. The custom in other countries of friends entertaining and visiting each other, is here un- known. The common and lower class of people are very much addicted to practising what is known to the Arabs by drink-money,or brothership,and among the Persians by tribute. The EngUsh travellers who visit the East cannot but know the word baksheesh. One day after going about the streets, and THE PERSIAN PRINCES. ^ 265 gazing at what was to be seen, we returned to our residence. A man followed us, and demanded of us a baksheesh. I said to him, *' What hast thou done for us to entitle thee to it?" He said, " Wliile you were walking about the streets in the heat of the sun, my wife put the clothes out on the terrace to dry, which no doubt gave you a shade, which you must have enjoyed, while resting from the heat ; it is therefore necessary that you should give me a baksheesh." Another day, while we were at Constantinople, as we were going to visit the Mosque of Sultan Achmet, a man came to us, and demanded a baksheesh. I said to him, " What good hast thou done for us ?" He repHed, " Some persons saw you at a distance, and thought that you were people of this country, but I, knowing that you were not of this place, but Persians, began to praise you before them ; now you must give me my rights." Such is their endless way of asking for baksheesh, and their generosity in demanding charity. A siniilar occurrence happened to us, after departijig from Constantinople. On our way to Bagdad, we arrived at a large city, where we VOL. II. 2 A 266 JOURNAL OF alighted at a lodge. Having travelled very hard during the day^ we felt exceedingly hungry on our arrival, and demanded something to eat. They told us, that our dinner was to come from the Palace of the Governor of the place. Now, for the sake of receiving the Governor's entertainment, we consented to wait. Thus some hours elapsed, and the expected dinner had not made its appearance. We waited till three hours after sunset, but the promised supper was not brought ; imtil at last we could wait no longer, as our hunger had vastly increased. At tliis time, some men came into our room, of whom we asked their business. The eldest of them said, " I am the head cook of the Pasha, and one of these two, is his chief lawees, or janissary, and the other is his water cup-bearer. The Pasha has ordered a diiuier for you, which is ready, and we are now come to demand a baksheesh, and then we will bring it." Being very hungry, I could not help giving the fellow a blow on his head, and desired him to leave the room. Upon this, they all stood at the door, begging forgiveness ; for they knew that if the Pasha should be informed of this, he THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 267 would be exceedingly angry with them. After they had solicited pardon, it was agreed that we should not mention the matter to the Pasha, and that they should bring us one half of the dinner, and the other half they were to keep, instead of their baksheesh. Such is the manner in which they conduct themselves in this habit of theirs ; the liigher class of the people of this kingdom, however, are very noble, rich, and honourable in their deahngs, and their kings are just and generous. Formerly the Ottoman Sultans were not to be seen in the bazaars, and no one dared to approach them with an application or petition. Whenever they went out, it was always in imperial state, and the people were obliged to bow their heads to them most respectfully. The present Sultan Mahmoud, the Badishah of the age, is a wise man, and possesses a high degree of talent, kind feelings, and superior intellect. His Majesty has already introduced into his kingdom such European regu- lations, as are calculated to promote the advance- ment and prosperity of his empire and subjects. But in so doing, he is perplexed beyond measure, 268 JOURNAL OF by the ignorance of the people of this country. However, he has succeeded in having his views executed. Dui'ing this reform, some of the foolish people, called janissaries, attempted to interrupt his proceedings, and declared themselves against the interest of the public. His Imperial Majesty was displeased with their conduct ; and in a short time, 30,000 of them were destroyed, which restored tranquillity to the government. The form of their government, is at present similar to that of the Franks, but the Sultan still remains despotic, having all the power in his own hands. The \'izirs of government are intrusted with great power ; they are twelve in number, and carry on all the affairs of government. Each of them has a department in the Sublime Porte, where they sit daily. After they decide on any point, they send in their conclusion to the Sultan, who also makes his decision, and gives out his orders accordingly. If the answer from the Sultan should be delayed, however important it may be, it is not a rule mth the vizirs to apply for it a second time. It must be left entirely to the Emperor's pleasm-e. The ancient condition of the Ottoman government has THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 269 suflfered a great deal through neglect. Russia has seized upon many of its territories. Algiers, with some of its dependencies, has been taken by France. Walachia and Moldavia, are free princi- palities. The islands of Greece, with the Morea, have become entirely independent, and have a new Badishah ; and Mohammed Ali Pasha is almost sole Regent in Egypt, Syria, and Arabia. Such are the very injurious losses which have befallen the Ottoman government, on account of the neghgence of the vizirs. At present, however, by the wise proceedings of the reigning Sultan, the empire is advancing and flourishing ; so we see that God fulfils liis own will, and orders what he pleases. Notwithstanding that little remains of the former vast possessions of the Ottoman govern- ment, still the yearly revenue of the treasury is 600,057 purses, each piu'se amounting to ten Persian tomans. The standing army under pay, is 120,000 regular infantry, and 30,000 cavaliy, some of whom are in the capital, and others in different parts of the empire. The artillery con- sists of 150 pieces of cannon. One portion of the army is drilled according to the French discipline, 2 A 2 270 JOURNAL OF and the other according to the Russian. Their cavaby is also regular, and the old companies of horsemen are done away with. The Imperial Sultan is very fond of building new edifices, and has already constructed some most splendid and enlivening palaces in Constantinople. Such an one he has lately erected on the European side of the Bosphorus, as the eye never saw elsewhere, nor the ear of men ever heard of before. The bmlding was commenced seven years ago, and it is said that it will require four years more to com- plete it. It is a palace and paradise, and is called the Charagan Serai, and is indeed beyond any description. All the vizirs, pashas, and great people of this kingdom, have palaces on the Bosphorus, where they spend the summer, and where they dwell during the time of plague. The borders of the Bosphorus are unrivalled by any other part in the world. Constantinople, which is also called Stamboul, suffers from two different plagues, fire, and disease, which two evils operate very strongly against its prosperity. This metro- pohs is the best spot on the globe, but the people are never so happy as those in Europe, on account THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 271 of the two above mentioned calamities. It is never free from plague. This disease, according to the opinion of European doctors, is an over- heating of the blood, and is therefore generally less dangerous in cold climates. It breaks out alike on man, and animals, uncooked victuals, cloth, cotton, and woollen manufactures, fruits, vegetables, and flesh, in which articles it is ascer- tained to remain forty days. The articles which are not susceptible of plague are metals, coins, jewels, stones, and prepared or baked food, all wliich are not contagious, even if taken from a hand infected with the plague. There is no better safeguard against this disease than to be cautious in intercourse, and to abstain from contact. If you do not touch a man who has the plague, or any thing else infected by it, you can receive no in- jury. You may even be quite close to a man who has the plague, but so as you do not touch him, and keep a span's distance from him, you wiU not be endangered. As to the contagiousness of the plague, it seems to depend on the state of the constitution of the person. For instance, twenty persons might touch the pestilence and all take it, 272 JOURNAL OF or, on the other hand, perhaps not one, or only five of them may be infected, while the others escape. Moreover, it is sometimes very irregular and mys- terious in its effects. It may be that a man may un- knowingly have the plague about him, and may com- municate it to another, while it produces no effect upon himself; whereas, at another time, by touching the least article, he may catch the disease. A few years ago a fine educated and rich young Turk, named Plassan Aga, left Smyrna for Eiu*ope, for the purpose of trading and travelling. On ar- riving at Malta, where, as has been already men- tioned, the law is that every person coming from the East must perform quarantine, this yoimg gentleman, witli all the other passengers and the ship, performed his quarantine. After taking pratique, Hassan Aga landed at Valetta, and, while walking about the town, his eye fell upon a young lady, who had a face like a full moon, and by her he became bound, and fell into the chains of her love. However, after enduring a great deal on account of lier love, he at last, by means of large sums of money, succeeded in entering her door. While conversing together in the height THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 273 of their amorous intercourse, Hassan, as a token of his love, and for the sake of increasing the friendship, presented his beloved with a diamond ring, which he had on his finger. The ring having been too large, by unforeseen predestination, he had tied a little thread around it, which, during the time of his performing quarantine, he had neg- lected to air or to have smoked ; Hassan's consti- tution not being then susceptible, he did not take the plague ; but now the ring being put on the young lady's finger, while the heat of her blood was at the highest, the plague immediately in- fected her, and she communicated it to the young man. The consequence was that both of them died soon after. From them the people of that place became infected, and infected others, and a great number of the people of the city of Malta were destroyed by the plague. Irrational animals may take the plague, and communicate it to man, but it does not affect them. This disease rages in the temperate climates. During the extreme cold and heat, it diminishes, and grows mild, but it does nat entirely disappear. During our stay at Constantinople, it was raging dreadfully on ac- 274 JOURNAL OF count of its being the beginning of Capricornus ; the roses were opening, and all the gardens and fields were dressed in the flowers of spring. It is on account of the temperate climate of this city that this dreadful disease never leaves it. This plague (from which may God defend us !) breaks out as follows. After a person has touched any thing infected with the plague, and becomes himself infected, if he be in good health, he suddenly alters, and feels as if a glass of ice were thrown down his back ; he is then immediately seized with a violent ague, which lasts for two hours ; after wliich a high fever follows, which deprives him of his senses. If now his attendants and family wish to avoid coming in contact with him, they will bind him, and prevent his rising to do what he pleases. He will feel exceedingly thirsty, and will drink any quantity of water that may be given to him. The more he drinks the more the fever will increase, which continues from twelve to seventy hours, according to the constitu- tion of the person. The plague then appears in him, which is of two kinds, internal and external. If it should be internal (God protect such !) in the THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 275 heart-level, lie will instantly die ; the external is at- tended with buboes, which appear in number from one to seven. The buboes are of two sorts, red and black. If they should be black, the man will undoubt- edly die ; but if they should be red, he will certainly recover. Should they be of both colours, the denser colour will be the stronger ; but he who recovers will remain about three months ill, weak, and feverish. The larger and more obstinate the buboes may be, the longer it will remain, and the more the patient will suifer from it. The doctors and philosophers of Europe, with all their experiments and exertions, in the treatment of this disease, have not found a remedy besides abstaining from contact ; they are, however, always endeavouring to make further investigations in regard to it. Ten years ago a celebrated philosopher of France was sent by the French government to Syria, ac- companied by ten other clever medical men, in order to use his utmost abihty and skill by exa- mining this disease, to endeavour to find out by experiment some remedy against it, for the uni- versal benefit of mankind. Wlien the said doctor arrived at Beyrout, he began making inquiries in 276 JOURNAL OF regard to this disease, what sort of sickness it was ? While pursuing his investigations, he was informed that whenever this disease broke out in this region it spread every where, and no village escaped it, except one in Lebanon, called ZafFad, the inhabitants of which are never distressed by this calamity. When the plague rages at Beyrout, the people of Zaffad bring to it oil and other pro- visions, mix with the people in the town, carry on their business, and go back to their village in perfect safety. The wise doctor, after hearing this account, visited Lebanon, in company with his associates, and spent a few days at the village of Zaffad. He observed that the people here were generally oc- cupied in the oil trade, that their principal food was oil, and their business was chiefly the pressing of olives, which they carry over the country for sale, and that their bodies and clothes were gene- rally daubed with the same. By this the doctor learned that the oil was their protection, and he returned to Beyrout. At that time the plague was raging in Tripoli, in Syria, to which city the doctor proceeded with his associates : when they arrived near the city, they all clad themselves with THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 277 clothes steeped in oil, and thus entered Tripoli. They communicated quite freely with persons in- fected with the plague, and used their utmost skill in giving them whatever medicines they thought best, but none of them proved efficient. How- ever, although they had communicated so freely with the diseased persons, even putting their hands into the matter of the plague, and into the wounds, yet they were not in the least affected by it. They daily dipped their clothes in oil, and had the same mixed with their food. After having been three months amidst the plague, and pre- scribing all sorts of medicines, which all proved in vain, the chief doctor said to his companions, " We have been so long in this place, and have done all that we could, which I am sorry to see has all turned out fruitless, that we must return to France without having succeeded in our object ; yet, be- fore we leave, I have one thing more in mind which I should like to try, — I think this matter of the plagvie may be similar to that of the small- pox, and perhaps if we inoculate with the matter just as we do for the small-pox, it may be effec- tual in modifying the disease." The disciples ap- VOL. II. 2 B 278 JOURNAL OF proved of this suggestion, and said, " Let us now try this by an experiment, which of course cannot but be exceedingly dangerous." The first assist- ant of the old doctor, who was the wisest among his disciples, said, " I will try this experiment upon myself." So they brought some matter from a man infected with the plague, and his companions opened a wound upon him, and put in the matter, just as in inoculation for the small-pox ; the doctor, however, expired five hours after. The chief doctor and his disciples now learnt that this also was of no avail, and so returned to France, saying that this disease baffled all skill, and was incurable ; but that tlie oil of olives was of invaluable use, before the breaking out of the disease. The plague does not commu- nicate itself to liquids ; and if any thing infected by it, should be put into vinegar, it will soon be freed from it. There are two remedies against the plague ; one consists in keeping away from it, and in not holding communication with any person, and in fleeing to some place which is free from the disease, and where diseased persons are not allowed to enter. Those persons who happen to be in the THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 279 city, when the plague breaks out, and are obliged to remain there, must perform quarantine in their houses, and touch nobody, and, if possible, have no communication with others. As, however, every one will always require some important articles from the market, he must follow the quarantine regula- tions in regard to them, which are as follows : — He must, if possible, have in his house all necessary provisions, and give strict orders to his family not to move a step out of doors, and if any one should go out of the house not to receive him in again. He must not keep in the house any animals, such as dogs, cats. See. What may be required from the market, ought to be sent for through the servant wlio is out of doors, which should be brought in a basket, and put into \'inegar before being used. As to wearing apparel, it must be put into a copper vessel, and thoroughly smoked. Money must not be received, except it be first passed through vinegar ; and all letters ought to be fumi- gated. Each letter should be smoked separately, for one letter may be enclosed in another, so that by fuihigating the outer one, you cannot prevent the danger of the inner, which, therefore, ought to 280 JOURNAL OF be opened and fumigated also. By strictly ob- serving these regulations of quarantine, and the will of God, the plague will not be communicated to the house. Cotton and wool are the articles most susceptible of plague, and the best remedies against it, are \-inegar and oil. Clothes which may be infected with the plague, may be purified by being put into the open air. Rubies, and rings made of that stone, are very beneficial in time of plague ; tliis, however, rests with my informant to sustain. The people of Constantinople are careless in respect to the plague, and very few of them keep quarantine, on wliich account they are never free from it. Did not this disease carry ofi" the popu- lation of Constantinople, the number of its inha- bitants would be beyond enumeration. However, if I were to describe all the things connected %vith this magnificent city, I should have to write a book by itself ; therefore let what has been said suffice. The day after we departed from Constanti- nople, we travelled all the way by the coast of Marmora, which is the beginning of the West Sea. The country was green, beautifully adorned THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 281 with the flowers of spring. There are here many fine fountains of water, and edifices pleasantly- situated on the coast, and the roads in some degree resemble those of Europe After travel- ling four parasangs we arrived at a village called Cartal, which is on the coast of the sea of Mar- mora, where we alighted at a decent habita- tion. Wednesday the 24th, we started, and again travelled by the coast of Marmora, and through a beautiful green country and delightful climate, and after making five miles, arrived at a town called Zele. The cypress trees are here very plentiful. Along the road to-day we met at every little distance a fountain of good water, flowing from a lion's head, by which was also a coffee-house for the convenience of travellers. This road is adapted for carriages. At this place we alighted at the Governor's house, took coffee, and spent the rest of the night, and on the following morning, Thurs- day the 11th, we left, and travelled by delightful mountains, from which pure streams of water were running, and having exceedingly healthy air. O Tf o ry sy t^ i^82 JOURNAL OF As we passed the Straits of Marmora, we gazed at the enchanting sight the scene presented, and after making nine parasangs arrived at a beautiful city called Azruit, where we spent the night at tlie residence prepared for us. This city is plea- santly situated on the coast of Marmora, and is thickly populated. It contains some very distin- guished palaces belonging to the Sultan. Pines and other large trees are plentiful here, in conse- (juence of which they have a dockyard, and build ships of war for the Sultan. There are now two very fine vessels being just finished, each carrj'ing sixty guns. Friday the 12th, we departed. The weather was cloudy and rainy. The road was very muddy in some parts, and it was with difficulty that we crossed this plain, through wliich there are some fine and large rivers running ; several parts of the road were paved with stones. After travelling six parasangs, we arrived at Shauchak. The Tartar conducted us to the house of Achmet Aga Doochi Paslii, where we alighted, and rested a little, until the horses were changed. The Aga was very polite, and invited us to spend THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 283 the day with him, but as we were hastening on our journey, as soon as the horses were ready we turned our faces towards the road. High mountains, covered with fine and sturdy trees, and large forests, now presented themselves along our road, from which refreshing streams of water were running. Snow was falling upon the mountains, and it continued raining upon us, until, after travelling six parasangs, we arrived at a village called Vuebeh. To-day we made twelve parasangs, and alighted at a comfortable lodge, where we rested the night. Saturday the 13th, we started, and after travel- ling six parasangs, tlu:ough a muddy road, we came to a village called Darakli. This day- the road having been tiresome and difficult, we were quite fatigued, and spent the night here. The natives of this village manufacture combs and spoons ; the latter article they make very fine. Sunday the 14th, we left this. The air was excessively cold ; however, we continued our jour- ney, and after making six parasangs, arrived at a town 'called Serahli. This town is situated in a 284- JOURNAL OF valley, amidst large mountains, covered with large and fine pines, fi'om which delightful streams of water were running through the town, and in all the houses they have water-cocks. We continued our journey through these moun- tains, which were almost entirely covered with snow, and after making in all about fifteen para- sangs, three hours after sunset we arrived at a habitation called Amderley, where we alighted at a house. The governor of tliis place called upon us, witli whom we conversed a little, and being fatigued with our journey, wc soon after retired to bed. Monday the 15th, we left this place, and as- cended some high mountains, on which the snow was very thick and deep, and the pines very large and tall. After travelling eight parasangs we reached a village called Nevali, where we spent tlie night. Tuesday the IGth, we rose to leave this place, but just as we were about mounting, we heard lamentable weeping in the house. Upon asking what was the matter, they said that the master of the house, and the head of the family, who was THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 285 last evening in perfect health, had died during the night, and that his family were bewailing him. We were quite astonished at this, and therefore hastened to leave the place. It was our general custom that wherever we alighted on our journey, we got the master of the house to prepare some provisions to carry with us for the journey of the following day, which we ate by some stream of water on the road. The day that we arrived and lodged with this family, the master of the house died, so no meat was prepared for our breakfast, and as none could be obtained in the place, we were obliged to do without. The Turks who accompanied us laid hold of the sweetmeats which were in the house prepared for the family, as was customary on like occasions. After travelling five parasangs we arrived at a village called Sari, where we stopped an hour, took a little coffee and departed. After making six parasangs more, we arrived at a town called Booyooh Bazar, where we spent the night. This day we travelled fifteen parasangs. To-day our travelling lay over barren hills, and with scarcity of water. Wednesday the 17th, we left the place, and 28G JOURNAL OF after winding along for the distance of eight parasangs, arrived at a habitation called Ayash, which appertains to Ango ; and is situated be- tween the hills. This town belongs to the Pash- alic of Angora, and is a ver}' cold place ; however we spent the night in it. Thursday the 18th, we mounted, and passed over very high mountains covered with snow, and then came to a fine large plain. After marching nine parasangs we arrived at Angora, which is one of the large and well kno^^^^ cities of this empire, and the residence of a Pasha. It is situated at the foot of a mountain, and is surrounded by three large and fortified castles. From the mountain there run fine streams, through the city, and through the houses. Here the fine Angora shawls arc manufactured, and very fine gloves and stock- ings made, but sold at good prices. The fruits are superior, and the apples are particularly deli- cious. The seed was brought from England. The present Pasha of the Ottoman Government who resides here is the Sabek Sodar Azam, or the ex prime minister Azet Mohammed Pasha. The Pasha being infoimed of our arrival, aflTorded THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 287 US a good entertainment. In the evening Tay- moor Meerza was taken ill Avith a violent attack of fever. The next day, Friday, we spent at this city, went to the baths, and visited the bazaar, and at night both myself and Wali felt exceedingly unwell. It was a very bad night. Saturday the 20th. "We left Angora, and after travelling eight parasangs, arrived at a village called Aloshie, where we alighted. The following accident occurred this day. One of the Tartars who was with us, used every day to start before us, in order to arrive sooner, and prepare horses, pro\asions, and lodgings for our reception. This man used to put any thing into his mouth, ripe or unripe, hot or cold, and used to carry about with him such a quantity of heavy useless arms, as a mule or camel could not carry. Having upon this occasion eaten a great quantity of cooked and un- cooked flesh, he became extremely ill, so much so, that a good quantity of jalap would have been necessary for his relief. He was one of those men in fact, of whom it is said "He created man with a voracious appetite, and as craving as dogs." This man from eating so constantly and perpetually. 288 JOURNAL OF together with the fatigue of the journey, was seized with a \aolent cholic. When we arrived at tliis place, we found this poor fellow lying on the ground, suffering exceedingly from the stomach ache, with a crowd of the natives of the \illage around liim. They had a bag full of mould, from which two men, who were sitting beside him, were giving him into his mouth handful after handful to swallow ; we were exceedingly surprised at tliis, and asked them the reason why they gave him such a quantity of earth ? They replied, " This man has the heart ache, and we arc now curing him with this earth, which comes from the holy cemetery of this place, the dust of which cures any illness." Our hearts now felt for the sufferings of tliis man, both on account of the cholic and his being physicked in such a manner with holy dust, for we conceived the man would die before the lapse of five minutes. We immediately reproved the people, and drove them away with their holy medicine, and Taymoor Meerza, from his medi- cine chest, gave him a good dose of jalap and other medicines. The medicine soon operated, and by vomiting what he had lately been stuffing, the THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 289 man was restored, so as to be able to follow when we started. Sunday tlie 21st. We left this, and ascended a very high mountain, entirely covered with snow, over which we travelled for three hours. The snow was so deep that the horses sank into it up to their breasts, and it was with great difficulty that we reached a town called Kaaluakak. The governor of tliis place, Hadji Mustapha Bey, received us into his house, and showed us every token of friendship and civility. Tliis town is situated in the lap of the mountain, and contains several ancient buildings. It was formerly a very strong castle, and was taken by Prince Koorkan, who fortified it. At present it has not the fortifications that it had once. In the summer season, the water from the snow runs through its delightful gardens. Hadji Mohammed Radina, a Persian, from Kazween, who is residing in this place, came and offered us his services. After spending an hour at the governor's, we changed horses and mounted. We then crossed a river called Darmac, in which we observed some very strange and curious fish of every imaginable colour.' We continued travelling till two hours VOL. II. 2 c 290 JOURNAL OF after sunset, and then alighted at a village called Sheih Shamieh. This day we travelled fifteen parasangs, and spent the rest of the night here. Monday the 22nd. We started, and travelled the whole day ; so that by three hours after sun- set we had made the distance of fifteen parasangs. We then arrived at an habitation called Ainsen- karley, where we alighted at the house of the governor. Said Ali Mina, a very condescending, friendly person, who ofiered us all his services and hospitality. Tuesday the 23rd. About noon we left this place, and, after making eight parasangs, arrived at a place called Layha. The principal Dewag, or officer of this town called Ismael Bey, a very affa- ble man, and extremely fond of the chase, pre- sented us with a very fine falcon trained to hunt- ing. It is said that in these mountains this bird abounds. It is taken when yoimg, and brought up for the chase. The people of tliis place are hunters, and game hereabouts is plentiful. Wednesday the 24th. We started, and after travelKng six parasangs, arrived at a village called Deway, where the chief man, who is called Ali Bey, THE PERSIAN PRINCES. 291 offered us every kind of service. This place is situated in the mountain, which is beautifully covered with flowers. And on the 5th of Maharen we reached Bagdad. THE END. W. Tyler, Printer, 5, Bolt-court, London. f u iRYOj^ ^UBRARY^/^ ^UNIV£R% ^lOSANCEl^^ % UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY 3'JO Los Angeles This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. ^ m^ m m< ma 315 an-i^ ^omm^ '^mmsaw' '^mm^^ inc.itirnrA (CiinnAnvn. .«C.IIDD*nV/t. University of California, Los Angeles sov UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY '<&H3Hvs(n^ "^/saaAiNnmv^ %)jnvDiQ ^OFCAUFOS t^AHvaani^ "^^onvsoi^ %MAiNii-3tt^ ^omm^ ^mmm:^ ^/5a3A!Nfl3ftV^ ^OFCAIIFO% I ^iSoJnwjo'^ ^QFCAIIFOM^ ^. , ^EUNIVERS; '<Q133NVS0V .5J\EUNIVERX jJ^lUBRARYQ^ I m i^.iuwuan.lCi^i' AWEUNIVERS/a ^10S|ANCEI^^ ^5!AEUNIVER%: ^lOSANCEl^^ I T/wiiiAiuft.iUV.^ ,^IUBRARY< ■^OJnVDJC ^OFCAUFO^ 'jil.iuwuan.'i