Ex Libris 
 C. K. OGDEN 
 
 m 
 
 m 
 
 I 
 
 nil 
 
 THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ANGELES
 
 7/t
 
 DAYS OF A SOLDIER'S LIFE 
 
 REIXG LETTERS WRITTEN BY THE LATE 
 
 GENERAL SIR C. P. BEAUCHAMP WALKER, K.C.B., 
 
 DURING ACTIVE SERVICE 
 
 IN THE CRIMEAN, CHINESE, AUSTRQ-PRUSSIAN (66), 
 AND FRANCO-GERMAN (70-71) WARS. 
 
 WITH PORTRAIT. 
 
 LONDON: CHAPMAN AND HALL, L D - 
 
 1894. 
 [All rights reserved.]
 
 WESTMINSTER : 
 
 1'RINTED BT NICHOLS AND SONS, 
 25, PARLIAMENT STREET.
 
 23eti!'ratciJ 
 
 BY PERMISSION 
 
 TO HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS 
 
 0*77199
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 LETTERS FROM THE CRIMEA . . , . 1 
 
 LETTERS FROM CHINA, I860 .... 157 
 
 LETTERS FROM BOHEMIA AND THE WAR OF 186G . . 223 
 
 EXTRACTS FROM JOURNAL ..... 2G3 
 
 LETTERS FROM FRANCE, 1870-71 .... 282 
 
 EXTRACTS FROM JOURNAL, 1871 TO 1888 . 37G
 
 CHARLES PYNDAR BEAUCHAMP WALKER was born on 
 the 7th October, 1817, at Henbury, Gloucestershire. 
 He entered the 33rd Regiment at the age of nine- 
 teen, and served in Gibraltar, the West Indies, 
 Nova Scotia, and New Brunswick. In 1849 Captain 
 Walker exchanged into the 7th Dragoon Guards, 
 and when the Crimean War broke out in 1854, was 
 appointed first Aide-de-Camp to the Earl of Lucan 
 commanding the cavalry division. He served 
 through the Eastern Campaign of 1854, including 
 the Battles of Alma, Balaklava, and Inkerman, and 
 the siege of Sebastopol ; was also at the cavalry 
 affair the day previous to Alma ; at the surprise of 
 the Russian rear-guard at M'Kenzie's Farm ; and 
 served as a volunteer on H.M.S. " Bellerophon " 
 at the bombardment of Sebastopol, on the 17th 
 October, with Lord George Paulet, for which he 
 was afterwards granted the medal for naval service 
 (Medal with four clasps, 5th class of the Medjidie, 
 arid Turkish Medal). [ED.]
 
 DAYS OF A SOLDIER'S LIFE. 
 
 LETTERS FROM THE CRIMEA. 
 
 On board the " Melita," 23rd April, 1854.- 
 Anticipating a good deal to do at Gibraltar, 
 where we hope to arrive at 8 p.m., I shall try and 
 scribble a few lines if the screw will only let me. 
 As the experience of a five days' voyage in the 
 " Melita," let me give you this advice, never 
 under any circumstances but necessity, be tempted 
 to undertake a voyage in a screw ; the noise, the 
 motion and rolling, are enough to destroy all 
 one's philosophy. Having said this, I will dilate 
 no more on disagreeables, but proceed to tell you 
 that I and the beasts are remarkably well, Punch 
 best, then Jemmy, and Sultan rather middling, 
 with a bad cold. We have only lost one horse, a 
 mare of Lord Luoan's, which died of fright and 
 sea-sickness on Thursday morning, though we 
 have had a very rough passage, and till to-day a 
 very heavy roll of the ship day and night. We 
 made a very good start, and got on capitally till 
 Wednesday morning, but after 12 o'clock of that 
 day till 11 a.m. on Friday I can tell you nothing, 
 save that 1 w r as horribly sick, totally prostrate, 
 
 B
 
 2 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 and exceedingly miserable. Since then I have 
 been mending, and am now quite right again, and 
 only suffering from fierce hunger at regular times. 
 We saw Cape Finisterre soon after I appeared on 
 Friday, and have since then been running down 
 the coast, passing Vigo on Friday, and yesterday 
 having a charming view of Mafra, with its 
 enormous convent, and Cintra, the entrance to the 
 Tagus, and the south coast of Portugal. We made 
 and passed Cape St. Vincent at 1 this morning, 
 and have now just made the land at Trafalgar. 
 We hope after this to have better weather. To- 
 morrow we are to have all the horses out and clean 
 their dens, a very necessary operation. Punch has 
 done best of any horse in the ship, as from his great 
 length he just fits his box, and sleeps as well as 
 if he were on shore. The weather is beautifully 
 fine, quite Mediterranean. W. Pakenham and 
 Captain Charteris are in the same cabin with me, 
 and as we have all been equally sick we have 
 neither of us been able to laugh at his neighbour. 
 
 Gibraltar, 10 p.m. We ran in here about 
 8 o'clock, and are now snug at anchor a mile from 
 the shore. The run through the Straits was beauti- 
 ful ; we were off Cadiz at 3 o'clock, and Tarifa just 
 after dinner. The old rock looks much as ever. 
 To-morrow early we clean the horses, and after 
 breakfast go on shore to look at old haunts for an 
 hour, and sail at 12 o'clock. Punch and Jemmy 
 are very bright, and I hope the brown horse will 
 be the better for a night's quiet. The poor beasts 
 seem delighted at their respite from rolling ; our 
 ship is in some respects a good one, very fast
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 3 
 
 certainly, but she rolls awfully out of smooth water, 
 and the noise of the screw is deafening. 
 
 2oth April. We wsre all up early yesterday 
 and at work by 5 o'clock, had the horses out of 
 their stalls, cleaned them and their dens, and put 
 them back again. Punch and Jemmy were not in 
 the least rubbed, by having filled their stalls they 
 had not so much play as Sultan, who has a small 
 sore on his tail, and a bad place under his jaw. 
 After breakfast we went on shore, went to guard 
 mounting, and started off to see the town and look 
 for mules. I was on my legs all day visiting old 
 haunts, jabbering bad Spanish, and spending what 
 little money I could well spare, in buying some 
 trifles, which the ship will bring to England for 
 you. After my purchases were made, I set seriously 
 to work to buy a mule, which I did at last for 
 twenty-four pounds, and had him safe on board at 
 7 o'clock. He is very comfortable and seems 
 perfectly happy, but the horses cannot make him 
 out at all. We bought four mules in all, and four 
 are gone to Malta for Lord Lucan. We got all our 
 work done and were on board by 7.30, but did 
 not sail till 3 this morning owing to delays in 
 coaling. We are now running along about fifteen 
 miles from the coast, with the Sierra Nevada full in 
 sight, a lovely day and smooth w r ater. 
 
 3 p.m. t 28th April. We are just passing Cape 
 Blanco, distant about a mile, having passed be- 
 tween the islands of Goleto at 11 o'clock. We 
 have had a most wretched time since I wrote the 
 first part of this letter ; an easterly wind and 
 violent motion which has made us all miserable. 
 
 B 2
 
 4 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 Added to this we have lost three horses by a sort of 
 distemper, and amongst them, I am sorry to say, 
 Sultan, who was thrown overboard at 11 to-day. 
 It was impossible to do anything for him beyond 
 what we did ; the motion of the vessel is so violent 
 and incessant, that the poor beast never got an 
 hour's rest, and died at last from sheer exhaustion. 
 This is a bad commencement, being a loss which I 
 cannot replace out here. We are now in smooth 
 water, and I have just left old Punch fast asleep, 
 and Jemmy only retained from following his ex- 
 ample by his anxiety to bite some of the people 
 about him. I am very well, with a good appetite, 
 but as the ship is never easy, one does not lead a 
 very comfortable life. She is a beast, quite un- 
 suited to carry horses on deck, and our only chance 
 is smooth water. We expect to reach Malta at 
 about 1 to-morrow, and remain till Monday. 
 
 Hay 1st, 1854, off Malta. I do not know when 
 I have more thoroughly enjoyed my sojourn in any 
 place, than the few hours we spent in Malta. I 
 occupied myself on Saturday shopping for the 
 horses, dined at the club, and then went for an 
 hour to the opera. As we came off at night, the 
 smell of the orange blossoms was most delicious. 
 Yesterday I landed early and took a stroll on the 
 ramparts with Captain Jarvis before church, then 
 to the new church built by Queen Adelaide, a very 
 fine building. After church I went for a few 
 minutes to the General's, where I had called on 
 Saturday and been most warmly received, and I 
 then went to luncheon with Major Pocklington, 
 who lias a most charming house on the line wall.
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 5 
 
 After luncheon we started for a walk, went through 
 Fort St. Elmo, and then crossed the harbour to the 
 Dockyard Creek, walked through a new barrack 
 (the Verdala), and round by the outer line of fortifi- 
 cations to the Dockyard Creek again. As we were 
 on our way to the "Melita," a large steamer (the 
 11 Andes") came in with the 1st Royals on board, 
 nine days from England. I went on board the 
 " Melita," dressed, and went on shore to dine 
 with the General. Nothing could be kinder than 
 their manner and inquiries for you all. At dinner 
 I heard by chance, that the Nevilles are on board 
 the "Andes," so, as soon as I could, I started off, 
 got a boat, and went on board, where I soon found 
 them, and we sat talking of old times and merry 
 days till the steward came to put out the lights. 
 This morning I was up and on shore at 7 ; there I 
 did a little shopping, to breakfast at the General's, 
 after which I finished my commissions, shipped 
 and paid for a mule I bought, and then went off 
 again to the " Andes " ; there I sat talking till it 
 was time to go on board my own ship again. 
 Malta is one of the most curious places I ever 
 visited, but not nearly so pleasant as Gibraltar ; 
 the shops are better and there are more people 
 about, but there is not the same variety of costume, 
 and the want of verdure is a great drawback. Some 
 of the houses of the knights are magnificent, par- 
 ticularly the Auberge de Castille, now a mess-house 
 and officers' quarters, and the Governor's palace, 
 formerly the residence of the Grand Masters. The 
 rooms in the latter are very fine, and there is a 
 painted gallery all round the inner court which is
 
 6 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 magnificent. As all the houses are built of cut 
 stone, with balconies, and the churches very hand- 
 somely carved, with large statues of saints at the 
 corners of the streets, the whole town bears a most 
 picturesque appearance, but the country beyond the 
 gates is hideous. Stone walls, and square stone 
 huts, and dust, and glare, are the chief charac- 
 teristics of Malta. I can fancy that in summer 
 it is fearfully hot, but a most agreeable winter and 
 spring residence. I am very glad to have seen 
 Malta, and should not be sorry to go there again, 
 particularly if the General remains there. I have 
 said nothing about the women of Malta, and can 
 say very little in favour of those I saw. They 
 are very swarthy, with bad features, and not 
 always good eyes, in fact not to be compared 
 to the Andalusians ; their dress is generally dark, 
 and over their shoulders and heads they wear a 
 sort of black silk mantilla, only more like a small 
 petticoat, called a faldetta. The men generally dress 
 like English sailors, but with a gay sash round their 
 waists, and many wear a moustache. They are 
 not nearly so picturesque a population as that of 
 Gibraltar, nor are the Moors of Tunis nearly as 
 well-dressed or good-looking a people as those of 
 Morocco. I can give a very fair account of the 
 horses, who are all the better for rest. I have a 
 second mule, which makes me pretty independent 
 in that way, and I hope to pick up a Turkish horse 
 in the country. I believe we are now bound for 
 Constantinople, as Gallipoli is not found a very 
 suitable place. This is a change which I like 
 much, and hope it may prove true. The day of our
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 7 
 
 arrival will probably be Saturday. I saw nothing 
 in Malta very well worth sending you, and I do 
 not think I could improve on my Gibraltar purchases. 
 I am beginning to learn a little Turkish; I know 
 most of the numerals and a few other useful words. 
 
 May 2nd, 140 miles from Cape Matapan. 
 Horribly sick to-day from the effects of the sirocco, 
 which is making everybody miserable. I could 
 not have believed in the effects of this horrible 
 wind unless I had experienced it. 
 
 May 3rd. Up at 5 o'clock this morning to see 
 Cerigo, one of the Ionian Islands, a bare, rocky, 
 desolate- looking place. We are now in the jEgean 
 Sea, with a beautiful sun and smooth sea. I am 
 almost set up again to-day, as we have run out of 
 the sirocco, which made us all dull and wretched 
 yesterday. We hope to reach Gallipoli at 11 
 to-morrow, and to sail in the evening for Con- 
 stantinople. I made out the colours of a French 
 steamer this morning with George Vernon's little 
 glass, when none of the best glasses in the ship 
 could distinguish them. The horses and mules are 
 very well to-day, and I am in hopes of landing 
 them in safety, as there is now no sign of the disease 
 about them. We are now (3 o'clock) running 
 amongst the Greek islands, having just passed 
 Hydra, but the day is so fine that there is a great 
 haze, and we cannot see distinctly at any distance 
 from the ship. The coast appears very rugged, and 
 there is still snow on the top of spme of the hills. 
 We heard at Malta, that the weather had been very 
 cold at Constantinople. Scutari is where the infantry 
 are collecting, on the Asiatic side of the Bosphorus.
 
 8 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 May kth, Dardanelles. Here we are, well into 
 the Dardanelles. We passed yesterday running 
 among the Greek islands, and I never was more 
 disappointed in my life bare, rocky, and appa- 
 rently barren islets. The evening was lovely, 
 clear, cool, and dry. This morning I was on deck 
 at 5 to look at Mytilene, and at 7 to see Tenedos, 
 where we spied the first Turkish town, and a 
 donkey grazing on the hills. Soon after we ran 
 into the mouth of the strait, where we found a 
 fleet of transports, English and French, detained 
 by the northerly wind, five of them with artillery 
 on board. The scenery now repays one for all the 
 disillusion of the isles of Greece ; the views are 
 most interesting, and the background and immediate 
 distances in Asia quite magnificent. 
 
 Gallipoli, 4<th May. Heaps of French vessels in 
 every direction the u Montebello," 120, three two- 
 deckers, and a fleet of transports. I believe we go 
 on, as Lord Luoan passed on two days ago. The 
 place looks well enough, that is the country, but 
 the town is poor looking. We saw the French 
 camp as we came along and a regiment at drill. 
 They have 28,000 men, and we 5,000 here, under 
 Sir George Brown. The weather is delightful. 
 The mail closes to-morrow. The "Andes" has 
 arrived, and I have just been on board. The 
 Royals disembark here to-morrow, and Mrs. Neville 
 takes a passage with us to Constantinople. This 
 appears a poor pjace. The French have established 
 themselves in force, and I am fully convinced have 
 no intention of being ever moved from this fine 
 position. I fear we are beginning with showing
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 9 
 
 weakness, and can only Lope we may show more 
 firmness hereafter. 
 
 May 1th, Constantinople. Here we are at this 
 most picturesque and wonderful place. I am so 
 thankful you never attempted to come out here, 
 for once leave the Bosphorus, and a more horrible 
 hole no decent person could put their head into. 
 The streets are very narrow, paved like the bottom 
 of a mountain torrent, with no names, no numbers 
 on the houses, and if it were not that the ground is 
 pretty undulating, and that you can generally 
 catch a view of some prominent point, I do not 
 know how a person unacquainted with the 
 language, would find his way about; added to 
 this there are no signs on the shops, and very 
 few public buildings large enough to act as land- 
 marks, except just at the water's edge. But with 
 all this, for two days I have been enjoying the most 
 magnificent panorama that I ever feasted my eyes 
 on. No description is equal to the reality, nor can 
 I conceive anything in the world more beautiful, 
 though I should recommend those who wish 
 thoroughly to appreciate Constantinople, never to 
 leave the Bosphorus. The moment you land, the 
 illusion vanishes, a glance behind the scenes com- 
 pletely disenchants you, and you. only wish you 
 had never left the ship. A position perfect and all 
 detail most picturesque. Lord Lucan soon made 
 his appearance, fortunately so, as we could get 
 nothing done by the proper authorities, and if he 
 had not bestirred himself, I doubt whether we 
 should have got the horses on shore before Monday. 
 As it was we did not land till just at sunset, when
 
 io Days of a Soldiers Life. 
 
 I found myself on the pier at Scutari, at the head 
 of a cavalcade of twenty-three horses and mules, 
 two and a half miles from the stables, and the most 
 villainous road before us I ever met with. How- 
 ever all passed off very well, and by 9 o'clock I 
 had put all the horses into an enormous stable, with 
 about two hundred others, but with nothing to eat 
 and no place for the servants, and no chance of 
 getting- either want supplied. I then made my 
 way to the immense barrack close at hand, where 
 Lord Lucan had a shake down with his son. There 
 I found a bit of dinner, after which I made my 
 way to the "Melita" and turned into my berth 
 w r ith great satisfaction. To-day I was up early, 
 and after breakfast on shore went to the barracks, 
 where I found plenty to do till about 2 o'clock, 
 when, as my Lord did not want me any more, I 
 asked leave for the afternoon and made my way 
 to Pera, to see how Mrs. Neville was settled. I 
 had a wonderful expedition through the streets, up 
 such hills, and such a difficulty in learning my way, 
 till most fortunately the servant of the ladies with 
 whom Mrs. Nevill is located, and who came on 
 board for her yesterday, spied me as he was 
 gossiping with some brother Armenians at the 
 street corner, and carried me off in triumph. The 
 way back I found more easily. The mode of 
 transit from Scutari to Constantinople or Pera 
 and Galata is by caique, the most graceful boat 
 you can imagine and one of the pleasantest con- 
 veyances ; you sit on a cushion at the bottom and 
 glide over the smooth surface of the Bosphorus in 
 the most luxurious manner conceivable. Last night 
 was perfect ; we came off at about 10.30. On
 
 Letters from the Crimea. n 
 
 coming down to the landing place we found a 
 single caique, with a solemn old Turk, who 
 rowed us off in perfect silence. The Bosphorus 
 was as smooth as glass, the moon bright, the 
 atmosphere clearer than I ever saw it before, and 
 not a sound broke the silence of the night. Far in 
 the distance Mount Olympus shone out in the 
 moonlight covered with snow, a fine range of 
 hills which always form a prominent part of the 
 background looking to the south-east. If I had 
 not been so tired I should have enjoyed an hour or 
 tw r o on the water, but should have found some 
 difficulty in explaining to my old Turk that the 
 mad Englishman only wanted to enjoy the beauties 
 of nature. The finest part of the panorama is the 
 Seraglio Point, a mass of fine buildings, the 
 Seraglio, the Mosque of Saint Sophia, a large new 
 Military College, and another mosque and mauso- 
 leum. This is the extreme point of Constantinople, 
 and round this you enter the Golden Horn. I am 
 so well here and really enjoy the climate, which 
 though very hot early, is not nearly^ so oppressive 
 as Malta or Gibraltar, and the nights are quite 
 cool. I believe we go into camp to-morrow, which, 
 as the great barrack abounds with fleas, is perhaps 
 the best place, and as the horses are under cover, 
 I do not care a pin for myself. This afternoon we 
 had a great storm, direct from Mount Olympus ; it 
 began with a strong wind and a dust storm, followed 
 by a cooling shower of rain. I have come on board 
 to sleep, which is a great comfort, as I have as yet 
 no place of any kind on shore. 
 
 May 8th. A furious wet day and a prospect of 
 more, which, as we have not yet a roof over our
 
 12 Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 heads, is rather alarming. I have been about all 
 day in the rain, in hopes of getting some hole to 
 put my head into, but am now come again on board 
 the " Melita " to sleep. There is a great ball at 
 the French Ambassador's to-morrow, which we are 
 all obliged to attend, and how we are to arrive 
 there presentable I do not know, as it is at Pera, 
 and my visit there yesterday showed me what the 
 streets are by daylight. It is now pouring with rain, 
 which will perhaps induce Lord Lucan to take the 
 quarters to which he is entitled, as we cannot now 
 pitch our tents. 
 
 May I2th, Scutari. I am in waiting to-day, and 
 as I have two or three idle hours I shall devote 
 them to you. I finished my last letter very hastily, 
 as we received a hint that the generals and staff 
 must all attend a great ball at the French Embassy. 
 It is an awful business doing society at Pera from 
 this side. First you must descend a hill of the 
 stoniest kind, which in wet weather is a perfect 
 torrent, then cross the water two miles, and then 
 ascend three-quarters of a mile of such a hill, with 
 such pavement as you never saw. We, however, 
 circumvented this by hiring a room at Pera and 
 dressing there ; and about half-past ten we found 
 the French Embassy and presented ourselves. It 
 is a pretty house with a good view of the Bos- 
 phorus, and a pretty sort of garden about it. 
 The scene was most curious ; the hall was filled 
 with Turks and Armenians and French, chiefly 
 servants, many smoking. Inside was a circular 
 lobby from which you entered the grande salle, 
 and round which the smaller rooms were disposed.
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 13 
 
 Here the crowd was fierce and the heat killing, but 
 the whole affair so curious that it was a full hour 
 before we found ourselves in a cooler room. The 
 great celebrities were Prince Napoleon, a most dis- 
 agreeable-looking fat man, very like his uncle in 
 face, and Marshal St. Arnaud, the French com- 
 mander-in-chief, a little wily, debauched-looking 
 man, just what we expected to see. There were 
 numerous Turks, some magnificently dressed, but 
 all in modern Turkish costume, fez, embroidered 
 coat, and European trousers, marvellously ill-made. 
 There were not many ladies, those chiefly French, 
 Armenian, or Greek, and no display of beauty. 
 The great mass was composed of British officers, 
 and I think three of the horse artillery were more 
 admired than anything else in the room. The 
 brother-in-law of the Sultan was there, a most 
 haughty-looking Turk, superbly dressed. We got 
 away at half-past 12 as there was a steamer 
 at 1 from Tophana to Scutari, and were home 
 safely about 2 o'clock. I hear to-day that the 
 cavalry will probably disembark and go into 
 barracks near Pera, a move I shall quite agree 
 in, as I shall not be at all sorry to get under a 
 roof during the hot weather. It is all very well 
 living in a tent in the field, but not in quarters. 
 Last night I went over to Pera, and after dining on 
 board a steamer, came on after 8. Such a sunset, 
 every window in Scutari illuminated by it. Soon 
 after sunset all the minarets were lighted up ; why, 
 I could not tell, as we have as yet no interpreters, 
 but I imagine because it was the eve of the Sabbath. 
 The better class of Turks nearly all wear the modern
 
 14 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 costume and look mean, their clothes being badly 
 made. The finest looking men I have seen are the 
 boatmen ; and the most luxurious conveyance I ever 
 was in is the caique, like a canoe, but far safer, more 
 roomy, and with a good cushion to lie on at thebottom. 
 May lAth. I left off on the 12th, knowing T 
 should have time to finish to-day, for the post 
 to-morrow, and now proceed to give you the 
 results of my visit to Stamboul yesterday. I 
 heard on Friday of a native horse likely to suit 
 me, and started off across the Bosphorus by the 
 steamer to Galata, to look at him ; of course he 
 was not forthcoming, so I went to Pera to get some 
 breakfast ; after this I came to the landing place to 
 meet a man who had promised to come over to 
 interpret for me, but as, after waiting till 12 o'clock, 
 he did not appear, I procured a young fellow who 
 spoke French from a shop in Galata, and started for 
 a walk through the bazaars. My guide proved but 
 so-so, as he neither knew the way, nor could give 
 me any information ; still I was very much amused 
 and interested with the scene. The bazaars appear 
 to diverge from a common centre, where there is a 
 Turkish guard. I went through several and managed 
 to buy a pipe, &c., without being much cheated. 
 The part I most admired was the slipper bazaar, 
 which is very pretty, and the places where they 
 sold silks and embroidery. There were shoals of 
 Avomen about, enveloped in the outer wrapping, 
 which conceals their clothes, and the yashmak, 
 which covers all but the nose and eyes, but docs 
 not by any means conceal their features. The 
 bazaars are all covered from the sun, which is very
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 15 
 
 pleasant. I walked about for more than two hours, 
 and then again crossed the bridge of boats to 
 Galata, where I saw the horse and offered seventy 
 pounds for him, but shall not know whether he is 
 mine for a day or two. I then again mounted the 
 hill to Pera, where I got a cup of coffee, and then 
 went to see Mrs. Neville, who I found very 
 comfortable, and as much pleased with her loca- 
 tion as at first. I sat for an hour with her, chatting 
 till we almost fancied ourselves far away from 
 Turkey. I got to the wharf in time for the 
 6 o'clock boat, went over safely, eat a furious 
 dinner, smoked the new pipe, and tumbled into 
 my nest at 10, to sleep soundly till 5 o'clock. 
 This is certainly the most variable climate I ever 
 knew ; Thursday and Friday were as hot as I ever 
 felt it in the West Indies; yesterday was hot with 
 a cold wind, and last night bitter. I slept under 
 my buffalo skin and great cloak, and was not a bit 
 too warm. To day is warm, but with a high wind, 
 which fills my tent with dust to an uncomfortable 
 extent. I believe there is now no doubt that we 
 move to Pera, very soon I hope, and there we 
 shall go into barracks, a blessed change, for it 
 must be a very bad barrack that is not better than 
 the best tent. I am satisfied that with care this is 
 by no means a climate to be dreaded ; I hope I 
 may always be able to give as good a report of 
 myself as I now can. 
 
 Mai) 18th. The posts come so quickly that 
 I have hardly despatched one letter before it is 
 time to begin again. I must have this ready to- 
 day as it will go on Saturday, and to-morrow I
 
 1 6 Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 expect we shall be moving to the cavalry quarter, a 
 place neither convenient nor desirable. Since I 
 wrote on Monday the weather has been delightful, 
 not a bit too hot, and we have had two wet nights, 
 which laid the dust. Yesterday I went over to 
 the bazaar in Stamboul at 12 o'clock, and took 
 Stockwell (English man servant) with me to com- 
 plete the purchase of a turban, which is the 
 best headdress here, and to have my pipe 
 put to rights. We spent two hours in the 
 bazaar looking about, and I then treated Stock- 
 well to some Turkish sweetmeats, and hired a 
 couple of horses to ride across the bridge of boats 
 to Pera. Such a ride I never had ; we went up a 
 street almost perpendicular, with steps, but neither 
 horse made the slightest mistake, and we arrived 
 quite safely at the top. I sat half an hour with 
 Mrs. Neville, and then went down to Galata to 
 pick up my little Arab ; he came over quite safely, 
 and I have been riding him all the morning. I 
 wish you had him at home, as he is a perfect picture, 
 and the gentlest little creature you can imagine. I 
 pull his tail and put my fingers in his mouth as you 
 would with a pet dog ; he is at present standing 
 tied at the door of my tent as quiet as a lamb. 
 The General has gone on board a transport which 
 arrived this morning with the head-quarters of the 
 17th Lancers, so I have an hour or two to myself, 
 while he is away. If we do not move to-rnorrow, 
 I am going to see the Sultan go to the Mosque in 
 the morning, and afterwards intend escorting Mrs. 
 Neville and the ladies with whom she lives to the 
 Sweet Waters, the place to which all the Turkish
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 17 
 
 women flock on their Sabbath. Really the view 
 here is superb ; when I wake in the morning and 
 walk to the door of my tent I look straight on 
 Mount Olympus, a vast mass of snowy heights 
 towering far above the mountains in the fore- 
 ground, the Princes Islands, and the opening of the 
 Sea of Marmora ; I turn to the right and behold 
 Constantinople at its most beautiful point of view ; 
 the opening of the Golden Horn, Pera, and Galata 
 are before me ; all round are the tents of officers 
 of different regiments who cannot find room in 
 barracks, while immediately before me and about 
 ]00 yards distant is a magnificent cedar, at least 
 300 years old ; add to this the blue waters, the clear 
 sky, the verdure in the gardens of the Seraglio 
 point, and the curious contrast of the Britisher 
 quietly located among these scenes, and you have a 
 panorama such as the world perhaps could not 
 equal, certainly not surpass. I find never-ending 
 amusement in the people, who are very civil, the 
 strange houses, the variety of costume, the veiled 
 women, a troup of Bashi Bazouks, or a couple of 
 wild Arabs, a party of Persians with their high 
 lambskin caps. In fact, with the new life which the 
 last ten days has opened to me, I should be a dull 
 dog if I could not find matter of observation at 
 every step. I am particularly well and hearty, and 
 only want a letter from home to make me perfectly 
 happy. Yesterday morning we had a great parade; 
 first, at half-past 7, General Evans's division six 
 very fine regiments and at half-past 8, the Guards 
 and 93rd, a grand sight. There was a French 
 officer present, with whom I rode about and 
 
 c
 
 1 8 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 explained every thing as well as I could, who seemed 
 much pleased. Lord Raglan is gone this afternoon 
 to Varna, and I fully expect that on his return it 
 will be learnt in what quarter w r e are to operate. 
 Nothing is known now; very proper, and a vast 
 improvement on the babbling of former expeditions. 
 I am perfectly indifferent, as long as I get some- 
 thing to do, and I get a chance of winning promo- 
 tion and an order or two. I wish you could see 
 me at breakfast of a morning. I always have the 
 same, three boiled eggs, a small loaf, and a tin tot 
 full of coffee, made from the essence I bought in 
 Liverpool, which is excellent, and the most useful 
 thing I have here. Our division staff is now here, 
 and I like them all. Lord William Paulet is 
 assistant adjutant-general, and Major McMahori as- 
 sistant quartermaster-general, with Captain Morris, 
 17th Lancers, as deputy assistant quartermaster- 
 general. I hope when we move they will be with 
 us, and I shall then join them in a breakfast mess. 
 You cannot think what good macaroons the Turks 
 make. I never cross the bridge from Pera to 
 Stamboul without buying some. I have not yet 
 been to a Turkish eating-house or to a bath, 
 but must do both, before we start up the 
 country. I have not yet had time to take 
 the bath except on days when it was too cold. 
 The climate is really delicious, though rather 
 hot and variable. I am glad to be able to 
 keep out of the sun for a day, and am sitting 
 writing in the mess tent, but shall go for a ride 
 after 5 on Jemmy. The new horse is so like 
 Jemmy that he looks like a miniature edition of
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 19 
 
 him. I wonder whether we shall get our letters 
 during the campaign. There was a rumour yes- 
 terday that we were going to Circassia, which I 
 think highly improbable either Varna or the 
 Crimea and we shall winter either at Shumla or 
 in the Crimea. I wish Lizzie JSTevill was away 
 from here. Unless the climate changes very much 
 I think it a very fine one. July and August, I 
 suppose, are very hot ; now it is hot from 11 to 3, 
 but after that it gradually becomes cooler, and at 
 C is quite as cool as I like it. I am so glad I 
 brought the grey coat with me ; it is most com- 
 fortable, and I wear no other when out of uniform. 
 I also find the cotton jackets and trowsers a great 
 comfort ; indeed my kit generally is very good, 
 though I shall leave a good deal behind, as we 
 are much restricted in our baggage arrangements. 
 I think I told you I had bought Lord Lucan's 
 French tent, which is very perfect, though rather 
 small ; but I could not possibly have carried the 
 tent served out to me. Lord Raglan was wrong 
 not to bring Jacko; he had a serious difficulty 
 with his horse on parade yesterday. I am quite 
 charmed with the fez as a head-dress. You wear 
 it with a linen cap next the head, and it is then 
 a light and very easy cap ; that and the sash are 
 most sensible additions to our dress. Flannel shirts 
 are also most comfortable, and far cooler than shirt 
 and flannel waistcoat. My leather pillow is also 
 an excellent thing. 
 
 May 20th. I had hoped to have finished this 
 letter quietly to-day, as I am not on duty, but my 
 lord kept me employed all yesterday, and has 
 
 C 2
 
 2O Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 just told me that he has work cut out for me this 
 morning. I believe we move scon to a barrack 
 about five miles up the Bosphorus. I was there 
 all yesterday looking for a house, and hope I have 
 succeeded. We had a most furious storm last 
 night; I never heard heavier rain or saw more 
 vivid lightning. Yesterday I had my first inter- 
 view with a Turkish authority ; pipes and coffee 
 all en regie ; much compliment and little business. 
 May 21st. At last there is an appearance of 
 something doing, and I think in a few weeks we 
 shall be on the move. Lord Raglan went on 
 Thursday to Varna to meet Omar Pasha, and we 
 since hear that he has gone on to Shumla. The 
 two commanding officers of artillery and engineers, 
 returned from the latter place yesterday, and it 
 is known that the Russians have invested Silistria 
 with 35,000 men. It is believed that in the course 
 of a few days General Browne's division will move 
 up to Varna. A small party of sappers have sailed 
 for Varna this afternoon, and I have no doubt we 
 shall all follow in due time. The cavalry arc 
 beginning to arrive. We have nearly all the 
 17th Lancers here and a great part of the Sth 
 Hussars, and I believe that we all go up to Kooleli, 
 five miles up the Bosphorus, in a day or two, in 
 fact as soon as these slow Turks can find a house 
 for Lord Lucan. After we returned from thence 
 yesterday afternoon we went to pay a visit of 
 ceremony to Osman Pasha, the Turkish general 
 commanding in Scutari. We put on our cocked 
 hats and walked about half a mile to the Turkish 
 barrack where he lives. On arriving there we
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 21 
 
 found some squads of recruits at drill. On sending 
 up to announce Lord Lucan we were immediately 
 invited to enter, and on proceeding upstairs we 
 found a crowd of officials on the landing, and the 
 curtains being drawn aside, with much ceremony 
 were ushered into a large cool room, commanding 
 a lovely view over Scutari, and furnished with a 
 table with papers on it, some chairs, and a sofa 
 covered with damask. There was also a marble 
 table on one side with a French clock and some 
 trumpery vases, and two cases of arms on each 
 side of the door. This constituted the furniture 
 of the room. We all bowed, and were handed 
 chairs, Osman Pasha sitting on the sofa. After 
 a few compliments pipes were brought in, then 
 coffee, and we sat for half an hour, during which 
 the two dignitaries carried on an animated talk 
 through the interpreters. I was very much amused 
 with an old servant of the Pasha, who, while the 
 great men were deep in converse, kept winking at 
 me, and trying to make me laugh. I dare say I 
 shall witness many such interviews before I leave 
 the country, but this being the first I thought it 
 worth detailing to you. I believe if we had 
 stayed long enough that we should have had 
 sherbet offered us, but Lord Lucan was in a hurry 
 to be off, as soon as he had asked for what he 
 wanted. The 55th arrived yesterday. The changes 
 here are wonderful. Friday was intensely hot, 
 and at night we had the most furious rain I ever 
 remember; an officer of the 93rd was drowned 
 trying to cross a watercourse, which at other times 
 has not six inches of water, and was washed out to
 
 22 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 sea. Yesterday was showery all day, and io-day 
 is a cold, mizzly, uncomfortable day as gloomy 
 as November very cold till you begin to move 
 much, and then you find out how close it is. I 
 have had a day of rest, which I rather wanted. 
 I am burnt already to a good mahogany colour. I 
 shall be sorry to leave Scutari, despite the tent ; 
 I have many friends in camp here, and as there 
 is a steamer every alternate hour to Galata, we 
 have no difficulty about crossing. Kooleli is quite 
 out of the world, and although you go from thence 
 easily to Constantinople, the pull back against the 
 current is a tedious business. I believe the breed 
 of fleas at Kooleli is famous, even amongst those 
 for which this country is so highly distinguished. 
 They swarm ; can I say more ? 
 
 22nd May. I was busy all yesterday disem- 
 barking cavalry, part of the 8th Hussars, and am 
 now going to ride to Kooleli to inspect a house 
 which has been found for us there. I believe the 
 report of the investiture of Silistria with 35,000 
 men to be true, and think it more than likely that 
 we shall soon move up to Varna. Lord Raglan, 
 will probably return before this letter leaves, but 
 not in time for me to give any news. I wish you 
 could see the keys of the house at Kooleli ; they 
 were sent this morning by Osman Pasha ; they are 
 made of iron, but I cannot conceive that they will 
 open any lock unless it it is made of gingerbread. 
 1 have been very much amused with the lies of the 
 various newspapers respecting this place. One paper 
 tells you that all the women have been removed 
 from Scutari in consequence of our being here. This
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 23 
 
 is a gross falsehood, and I can vouch for there 
 being plenty of the veiled sex in the immediate 
 neighbourhood of our barrack. I saw such a body 
 of Bashi Bazouks yesterday at our place of dis- 
 embarkation, perfect savages, Arabs from Asia 
 Minor and the countries down to the Persian Gulf ; 
 they could not even speak Turkish, were very 
 picturesque, very filthy, and very civil. I believe 
 I was as considerable a source of wonderment to 
 them as they were to me ; they seemed much 
 astonished at the simplicity of my saddle, theirs 
 being a most cumbrous piece of furniture. 
 
 May 23rd. I am off at 8 o'clock to inspect the 
 cavalry already landed. I had an idle afternoon 
 to-day, so I went over to Pera to see Mrs. Neville 
 and took her out for a walk. Poor thing, I wish she 
 was back in England. I had hardly got home before 
 I was told to be off to Kooleli to warn the 8th Hussars 
 to parade at 11 to-morrow, and be ready to embark 
 for Varna the day following. I accomplished the 
 distance (over ten miles of frightful roads), gave my 
 message, and was back in an hour and thirty-three 
 minutes. I am sorry to say we have lost a fine 
 steam frigate in the Black Sea. The " Tiger" got 
 on shore on the rocks near Odessa in a fo? and was 
 
 ^_j 
 
 set on fire and destroyed by the Russians. Her 
 captain (Giffard) has lost one leg, and it is feared 
 will lose the other. This is an unlucky beginning. 
 I am going to-morrow to dine with Namik Pasha, 
 a Turkish dinner, and hope I shall be able to 
 
 manage it. 
 
 May 25. I am now writing in Lord Eaglan's 
 house, whilst I am waiting for answers to some
 
 24 Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 questions for Lord Lucan, Laving just ridden in 
 from Kooleli. I had a good day's work yesterday, 
 as I was up soon after 4, and we did not get home 
 to dinner till past 7, the whole of which time I 
 was either in the saddle or on my legs. I slept a 
 little, that is till 6 a.m., but was woke by a great 
 bustle in the house, caused by Lord Lucan finding 
 he had had an order for the embarkation of the 
 8th Hussars in his possession all yesterday after- 
 noon, but had never opened it. We are now all 
 in a hurry, much of it caused by the great mystery 
 observed about the commonest matters. The 8th 
 are re-embarking to-day, the 17th will i think do 
 the same at once and disembark as quickly at 
 Varna, where I believe we shall all follow without 
 delay and push on at once to some point further in 
 the country. It is a curious mixture of slowness and 
 bustling this said expedition of ours. We got into our 
 house yesterday. I have a good room, all windows, 
 which as I generally get up as soon as it is light 
 does not matter. Fleas very abundant, I have one 
 in my right boot now. Lord Raglan has been very 
 ill from over fatigue in his late trip to Varna. I 
 am particularly well and was never in better heart, 
 the more so that I now see we mean mischief, and 
 that 1 shall not have to come home without seeing 
 a Russian. What I told you on the 23rd about 
 the " Tiger " is too true; it was a field battery of 
 artillery which took her. The English could only 
 bring one gun to bear, and the first shot from the 
 Russians took off the captain's leg and the next hit 
 his nephew. The vessel was blown up, but all are 
 prisoners. Lord Cardigan arrived yesterday. He
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 25 
 
 looks very old ; we want younger men at the head 
 of departments, I mean men with more bodily 
 activity. There is no sickness here, except with 
 those who are not up to work in a warm climate. 
 
 May ^Titli, Kooleli. I sent you a hasty note on 
 the 25th while waiting at Lord Raglan's, and hope 
 it went off by the post that day. At that time a 
 large portion of the force was preparing to start 
 for Varna, and I did not much expect to be here 
 till the next .post. Yesterday the move was 
 countermanded, some say on account of the 
 masters of the transports demanding convoy, 
 others that they found we could not take up 
 the ground intended on account of its being 
 marshy, and that officers are now gone on to 
 report on it. It is very difficult to find out the 
 truth of anything here. I spent a most pleasant 
 day yesterday, finding I was free. I started at 
 9, did some shopping at Galata, arranged where 
 to leave all my extra baggage (even I have 
 three times what I can take), and then went 
 on to Mrs. Neville, who I found quite ready 
 for a day's outing. We started soon after 1 
 with one of the Miss Walsh's, and taking a 
 boat at Tophana rowed up the Golden Horn 
 to the Sweet Waters of Europe. As soon as we 
 got clear of the town, we overtook little pleasure 
 parties of Greeks or Turks on every green spot, 
 saw others already settled down for their day's 
 amusement, which appeared to consist of sitting 
 still and doing nothing. We rowed up about four 
 or five miles before we came to the grand scene, 
 a place possessed naturally of very little beauty
 
 26 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 beyond the climate and some fine trees. Here 
 there is a kiosk of the Sultan, with a garden 
 about it, but which we were not able to enter 
 as some of his people were present. It was a 
 most curious scene. On every available spot on 
 the banks of the stream were seated groups of 
 Turkish women all veiled, but still giving occa- 
 sional glimpses of faces somewhat pretty, but 
 very devoid of expression ; others were driving 
 about in arabas (the general carriage in use), 
 something like a short boat with an awning, 
 very gaudily decorated, and drawn by one or 
 two wretched horses. Their only amusement was 
 looking on and doing nothing. The women and 
 a good many men were all on the left bank of 
 the stream, and on the right none but men. 
 The melange of costume was very curious, Turks, 
 Greeks, Armenians, English, Persians, soldiers, and 
 a few nondescripts, among whom I spied two very 
 handsome men Circassians. We remained there 
 till past 5 o'clock, very much amused, and then 
 taking boat again rowed back to Constantinople. 
 In going home we passed a very beautiful suburb 
 called Eyoub, embedded in trees, now in three- 
 quarters leaf, with a very pretty mosque and a 
 cemetery overhanging it. I had also a view of 
 the old walls and of the house called Belisaria's 
 Palace and of the great aqueduct. Certainly the 
 outside view of Constantinople is most beautiful, 
 but except to see immediate objects of interest you 
 should never land ; all that looks so beautiful out- 
 side is wretchedness and ruin when you once enter 
 the miserable streets. We got to Tophana again
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 27 
 
 soon after 6, climbed the hill to Pera, and after a 
 good dinner at Miss Walsh's I again descended the 
 hill, got another caique, and found myself at home 
 soon after 9 o'clock. To-dav I am in waiting, but 
 
 j 
 
 have snatched an hour to begin my letter, as I hear 
 some talk of a hot ride into Scutari. The days are 
 warm, as the sun is very powerful, but there is 
 generally a cool breeze, and yesterday was quite 
 pleasant ; the great heat is between 11 and 3, 
 after which the day gradually becomes cooler. 
 Our house, which externally is very like a great 
 barn, is pretty comfortable inside. We have the 
 top storey, which consists of a centre hall (where 
 we breakfast and dine) and three or four rooms. I 
 have one to myself, which if it had not so many 
 windows would be very comfortable, but I get 
 rather more sun than is quite necessary ; still it 
 is an immense improvement on a tent. I conclude 
 we shall not now move before the 1st of next month, 
 perhaps not then. I amused myself all Thursday 
 when I had ten minutes to spare in cutting all 
 the leather off my new overalls, as I found I could 
 not bear the heat of it here. I shall never do more 
 than boot them again, as I found the leather 
 round the body too much for this climate ; this a 
 French officer told me at Malta. The horses are 
 very well, but our stables are not so good as afc 
 Scutari. I miss Sultan dreadfully, as the Arab does 
 not at all replace an English horse, and I can get 
 no saddle to fit him; perhaps I may succeed in pick- 
 ing up a larger horse. I have sold one of my mules, 
 as Lord Lucan will not let me keep a second, and 
 have got what I gave for him. We have two such
 
 28 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 nice men on the staff, Major McMahon and Captain 
 Morris. The doctor appointed is an old acquaint- 
 ance of mine ; we went out to Gibraltar in the 
 same ship in 1838 ; he is known as a clever man 
 and a gentleman. Lord Cardigan dined here on 
 Thursday ; he is a great swaggerer and I cannot 
 admire him. I believe Lord Lucan goes in a boat 
 to Scutari, so I shall escape the hot ride, which 
 I shall defer till the cool of the day. 
 
 May 28th. I had a day of quiet arid rest 
 yesterday, and have been equally fortunate to- 
 day, that is I have no more to do than is pleasant 
 and agreeable, and have been able to keep out 
 of the sun in the middle of the day. Yesterday 
 I got an hour's ride before dinner, after starting 
 my Lord in a caique to dine at the embassy, with 
 the fare for his caique folded up in paper and 
 labelled u boat" in one pocket, and money to pay 
 for a horse up the hill to Pera labelled "pony" 
 in the other. He was late, as a matter of course, 
 and bustled himself and everybody to a considerable 
 extent. We have a parade of the 17th Lancers 
 at half-past 6 to-morrow, and as he goes to buy 
 baggage horses early I expect an easy day, and 
 shall spend it either at Pera, or Stamboul. It 
 is very much cooler here than at Scutari, as we 
 have more shade, and the cool breeze from the 
 Bosphorus blows into our very windows. Last 
 night I strolled about the village after dinner and 
 looked at the Greeks and Turks enjoying them- 
 selves in their coffee-houses, smoking, and playing 
 a game something like backgammon. I fear we 
 shall be off before my carpet bag arrives. I
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 29 
 
 should have liked to get Charlie's picture, but 
 shall hardly do so no\v before the winter, when I 
 must have warm clothes from home. We (the 
 cavalry) I hear are to go to Devna, about fifteen 
 miles from Varna, in the first instance, and having 
 collected our force there march afterwards as 
 circumstances direct. My heart was gladdened 
 to-day by hearing from a gentleman who was in 
 the insurance office iu London to which Lord 
 Lucan applied, that our horses were insured, so that 
 my loss in money will be very small indeed. I 
 hope this may prove true, still no money can 
 replace a good Irish hunter in this country. 
 
 May 29th. The Light Division (General 
 Brown's) with the 8th Hussars and a troop of 
 horse artillery have just sailed for Varna; I con- 
 clude we shall all follow in time. I have just 
 come back from the other side in a Turkish boat 
 which runs between Stamboul and Therapia. This 
 is Ramazan, when the Turks do not eat, drink, 
 or smoke between sunrise and sunset, and they are 
 a most dejected-looking set just now. It is re- 
 ported that the Cossacks have shown themselves 
 within twelve miles of the coast above Varna and 
 have burnt a village near Pravadi. 
 
 May 31s, Tchenquelquai.. What do you think 
 of that for a name ? I found out at last ho w to 
 spell the name of our village, a most jaw-breaking 
 title it is. Kooleli is only the name of the barrack, 
 like at Scutari the barrack is called Selimick. 
 We have all been over to Scutari to a great review 
 for the Sultan. We started about 11 o'clock, and 
 as the wretch did not arrive till nearly 3 we had
 
 30 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 a good roasting ; but the day was delightful and 
 all passed off very well. The troops consisted of 
 two batteries of artillery, two squadrons of the 
 17th Lancers, and eleven battalions of infantry, 
 and made a very fine appearance. As to the 
 Sultan, he is a most miserable-looking creature 
 and appears half an idiot. He first rode down the 
 line, and we then marched past. The great sight 
 of the day was the Duke of Cambridge's saddle- 
 cloth ; he was on a white horse presented by the 
 Sultan, with a crimson saddle-cloth, most superbly 
 embroidered in gold, and gold ornaments to his 
 saddlery. 
 
 June 2nd. I am on duty to-day, that is in 
 waiting, which often gives me a spare half-hour 
 to write. After we got back from the review, 
 Lord Bingham and I, . went to a fine plane-tree, 
 which is near the house, and had a pipe and a 
 cup of Turkish coffee under it. I am beginning 
 to be somewhat reconciled to the Turkish coffee, 
 which is, however, often nearly half grouts. I 
 was out with Lord Lucan all day yesterday; we 
 first rode to Lord Raglan's, where Lord Lucan 
 transacted some business, then into the barracks 
 at Scutari, where a little more was gone through. 
 Of course we missed the steamer, for however good 
 a plan my lord makes overnight he is pretty sure 
 to begin unpunctually, and by losing a little on 
 every item, by the time he has done half a dozen 
 things he is well out of time. We landed at 
 Stamboul as he wanted to buy a pipe, which, 
 however, he did not accomplish, and after walking 
 about the bazaars for some time he got so tired 
 that we adjourned to a coffee-house, from whence
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 31 
 
 we sent out for some luncheon, and afterwards 
 indulged in a pipe and some coffee. Here I saw 
 the process of making coffee. There is an. open char- 
 coal fire with two pots with water always on it ; the 
 coffee-maker takes a small brass pot into which 
 he pours certain spoonsful of coffee and of pounded 
 sugar and pours some water on it ; the coffee is 
 then put for a moment on the fire to boil and then 
 poured into a little coffee cup without a handle, 
 which again is put into a little stand like an egg- 
 cup called a fingaan. After a little practice you 
 really begin to like the Turkish coffee ; luckily 
 you take but little at a time, as it is thick enough 
 to be meat and drink. After this we went to a 
 curiosity shop, the master of which, I suppose, 
 hearing we were in the bazaar, had come to the 
 coffee-house, where he had his cup of coffee, and 
 then strolled out, leaving a rascally-looking Jew 
 to entice us to his shop. I was rather amused 
 at the whole proceeding, and still more so when 
 we got to the shop at finding it was one we had 
 been in before when in plain clothes. The General 
 being a remarkably bad dresser was not recognised 
 when in more gorgeous attire. I cannot say that 
 I am very well got up, as my small stock of plain 
 clothes has become very shabby. After we left 
 this place, we went to the arms bazaar, the most 
 curious and interesting place I have yet seen 
 quite Turkish, only open for a few hours every 
 day, and the merchants in general, Mussulmen of 
 the old school, rich, bigoted, and haters of the 
 Frank ; they were, however, very civil they are 
 thoroughly beaten into it at last and we passed 
 a very amusing half-hour there. It was like a
 
 3 2 Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 scene in the Arabian Nights ; here I saw what one 
 reads of there, the auction of some article by a 
 man who walks about shouting the price that is 
 expected for it, and taking offers if he can get 
 them. We then went to buy a carpet, which was 
 as unsuccessful as the pipe, and walked through 
 most curious streets down to the bridge. On the 
 way we passed several " Khans," where merchants 
 deposit their goods on the lower, and live in the 
 upper storey, and the mosque of the Sultana 
 Valide, the mother of the present Sultan. This 
 is a dull time for Stamboul, as it is Ramazan. 
 While at Lord Raglan's I heard that we are not 
 likely to move for some time. The 17th Lancers 
 go to-day they are now embarking ; the Duke's 
 division go on board to-morrow, but we shall 
 probably remain until the heavy cavalry brigade 
 is formed. The news I gave in my last of the 
 Russian defeat before Silistria is confirmed ; they 
 are said to have lost on the 20th and 21st May 
 8,000 men ; this I do not believe, but there is no 
 doubt that they have had very severe losses in 
 the attack of the outworks of that place. Sir 
 Edmund Lyons has also taken Redoubt Kale on 
 the coast of Circassia. I cannot but think we have 
 made a mistake in going to Varna; our post of 
 advantage was behind the Balkans, and if we show 
 a disposition to advance we shall be drawn on by 
 the Russians, till they can bring their reserves to 
 bear on us. At present our best allies are hunger 
 and sickness, with both of which they are threatened 
 when away from their depots. A number of French 
 transports went through yesterday on their way
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 33 
 
 to Varna. I hear the country round where our 
 camp is to be formed is delightful arid well wooded, 
 which is more than a luxury in a warm climate. 
 General Scarlett and Captain Connolly arrived 
 yesterday ; they say they brought up a large mail, 
 so I hope to get some letters. The weather con- 
 tinues delightful ; I can fancy nothing more 
 charming than a house on the Bosphorus in early 
 summer ; in July and August I believe it is too 
 hot to be very pleasant. I had a walk before 
 breakfast yesterday, amongst the gardens and 
 vineyards of Tchenquelquai; there were plenty of 
 wild flowers, jessamine, hedge convolvulus, and 
 very pretty grasses. Stockwell is transferred to 
 the 17th Lancers, that is, attached for the campaign, 
 but goes back with me to the 7th when I do. 
 
 June 3rd. I have had such a day. Just as I 
 was writing to you yesterday, Captain Neville 
 and his wife came out to see me; he had got 
 four or five days' leave to come up from Gallipoli, 
 and as they wished to go to-day to the bazaars, I 
 agreed to accompany them. Accordingly I got 
 away early, and we have spent the whole morning 
 in Stamboul. I thought it a good opportunity to 
 lay out my mother's money, and have spent seven 
 pounds for her. I send a string of scented beads, 
 which all the Turks carry, and pass through their 
 fingers when (as usual) they have nothing better to 
 do, four bags of cloth of gold and silver, a case 
 of attar of roses (the best), two silver stands for 
 coffee cups, one very beautiful, and an enamel 
 Persian stand they are all called Fingaans. The 
 two first have cups, one of the China cups at 
 
 D
 
 34 Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 Redland will do for the third. Also a piece of 
 needlework for a cushion, a velvet sachet em- 
 broidered in gold, a worked muslin square hand- 
 kerchief such as the women wear, a pair of thin 
 slippers embroidered, a satin bag embroidered, 
 and six real Turkish towels with fringed ends. 
 Mrs. Neville will pack all the things, and they 
 will go home in charge of the captain of the 
 " Melita." I enclose you patterns of Broussa silk 
 gauzes; if you like them send back the pattern, 
 and I will send you a couple of dresses at the 
 first opportunity. I admire them very much, 
 particularly the white and yellow. We were five 
 hours in Stamboul, and I managed to show the 
 Nevilles a great deal. I have since had some 
 dinner with them, and am writing now, because 
 I hear we are all going to spend the day at 
 Therapia to-morrow, and on the post day I am 
 pretty sure to be interrupted. Oh, those cats ! 
 they are far worse behaved, and their voices much 
 hoarser than I ever heard before ; they really are 
 dreadful, worse than the dogs, and they all come 
 to caterwaul in our yard just under my windows. 
 
 June 5th. I may possibly miss the next post, 
 as Lord Lucan talks of going to Varna and 
 Shumla. The choice rests between Captain 
 Charteris and me as an attendant. I do not 
 much care whether I go or stay, as I shall probably 
 have other opportunities of seeing Shumla, and 
 I could employ the spare time very well here. 
 We all enjoyed our trip to Therapia very much 
 yesterday ; I had a good look into the Black Sea. 
 From the front of the Embassy House ; Buyukdere
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 35 
 
 is even more beautiful than Therapia, and I 
 believe the rides there are most lovely, with plenty 
 of shade in the wood called the Forest of Belgrade. 
 We had a very good dinner, then strolled about 
 for an hour, and came home in the cool of the 
 evening. We had hardly got under weigh when 
 we found our caique leaked, and were obliged to 
 put into the shore to bale. We started again, and 
 had got about half-way across the Bosphorus (two 
 miles across) when we found the leak worse than 
 ever, and it ended in our being obliged to run her 
 ashore and walk home. The funk of our boatman 
 was delightful, which we made worse by laughing 
 at him. I had an elevated seat, so kept dry, but 
 my two companions, who were sitting on the 
 cushions in the bottom, were rather wet. The 
 nightingales were singing beautifully as we walked 
 home ; these beasts of Turks actually keep them in 
 cages. 
 
 June 1th. I passed a most amusing day in 
 Stamboul yesterday, going over by the boat at 
 11 o'clock and returning at 6. I visited the 
 horse bazaar, the saddlery and embroidery bazaars, 
 a bath, and afterwards found myself at the 
 mosques of St. Sophia, and Sultan Achmet, and 
 found my way back to the bridge without a guide. 
 St. Sophia is in no way remarkable outside, further 
 than from its size, and being in good repair; but 
 Sultan Achmet's is a most beautiful mosque, very 
 large, and with some magnificent trees round it. 
 I was invited to go in, but did not think it 
 prudent, so I contrived to explain that we were 
 forbidden to go into mosques without proper leave, 
 
 D 2
 
 36 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 so you may suppose I have managed to pick up a 
 little Turkish. In the bazaar I bought you a pair 
 of embroidered slippers, which I beg you will 
 wear, and a set of scented beads. As soon as I 
 can I shall take my collection to Mrs. Neville and 
 have it packed ready to start, as any day we may 
 be ordered off at a moment's notice. There is a 
 good deal of mystery here just now, and I do not 
 feel quite sure that we are not going to attack 
 Sebastopol. This morning I was up early, and on 
 Jemmy at 6 o'clock ; we rode till 9 looking for 
 camping ground for the heavy cavalry. The 
 great difficulty is the scarcity of water. We had a 
 most delightful ride, as it was a cool showery 
 morning, and we rode for miles through gardens 
 and vineyards. I have since been into Scutari 
 barracks between 11 and 2 on business, had 
 a sleep from 3 to 4, since then had a walk, 
 so my day has been pretty well filled up. I 
 never saw a country so full of fruit trees as this 
 corner of Asia; we get plenty of excellent straw- 
 berries and cherries, and in time there will be 
 currants, apples, mulberries, pears, figs, grapes, 
 melons, nuts, and walnuts in abundance. They 
 keep their gardens very clean, and water by the 
 wheel and resevoir, as in the south of Spain. The 
 horses are particularly well ; I never saw old 
 Punch look better, and Jemmy was very fresh this 
 morning. They are both very much admired, and 
 if 1 had but Sultan should be very well mounted, 
 better than most people, though there are generally 
 very good horses among the staff of this expedition. 
 June 8th. I have just come in from a nice ride
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 37 
 
 on the pony. I went over the hills to a place 
 which I thought from its position would command 
 a good view, and was amply rewarded. I had a 
 good peep into Asia Minor over a great plain 
 covered with crops and pasturage, and on the 
 other hand a most comprehensive view of the 
 Bosphorus, Constantinople, the Princes Islands, 
 Scutari, and the Camp ; while to the north, I 
 looked over our village towards Therapia and the 
 Black Sea. The morning was delightful, cool and 
 fresh, and the hills charming, if they only were 
 not so stony ; they are covered with ferns, low 
 shrubs, cistus in full bloom, and many other flowers, 
 and remind me much of the hills in the south of 
 Spain. It promises to be very hot to-day ; yester- 
 day was 80 all day, and a heavy thunderstorm in 
 the evening. I find the heat very endurable here ; 
 in Scutari it was 104 on Tuesday in the tents. 
 
 June 10th. The weather has become much 
 cooler again. Yesterday was as cool a day as we 
 should have had in England at this time of the 
 year. I was out at half-past 5, and had a three 
 hours' ride before breakfast. After breakfast I 
 went up to the stables, where I found iny mule 
 very ill, and I am afraid the beast will die ; better 
 that, than one of the pet horses. I afterwards went 
 to Pera, and took your slippers, two bags, and a 
 set of scented beads, to be packed with my mother's 
 parcel. I hope you will wear the slippers, as I 
 think they will just fit your foot. A part of the 
 13th Light Dragoons have arrived. I believe no 
 more cavalry will go to Varna. It is said the 
 infantry are coming to encamp about three or four
 
 38 Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 miles from us. Why this move no one can tell, in 
 fact we are at present very mysterious. Lord 
 Raglan is not well, and has gone to the Embassy 
 for a change. 
 
 June lltf/*. We are all in a bustle here, as the 
 whole army is about to move up to Varna. It was 
 at first supposed that we were all going into camp 
 about three miles from this, with part of the 
 cavalry still nearer the Black Sea, and officers were 
 actually employed on Thursday and Friday, in 
 laying out the ground for the camp, but yesterday 
 it became known that the plan (if ever seriously 
 entertained), was again changed, and that the whole 
 army was to move on, forthwith. We, I believe 
 (for nothing is ever certain here), do not go this 
 week, so that I shall perhaps be able to accomplish 
 a ride through Constantinople, which I have been 
 planning for the last day or two. I want to see 
 the Cistern of the Thousand Pillars, the old walls, 
 and some other places of interest. I have had a 
 nice ride into Scutari on duty to-day. Yesterday 
 and to-day have been delightfully cool, having had 
 a fresh northerly breeze all day. On my way 
 back, I was present at a Jewish funeral in the great 
 cemetery about half-way between here and Scutari. 
 I was surprised at hearing the Jews speak good 
 Spanish, and on questioning them^they told me 
 that they were descendants of Jews who had come 
 here in the time of the Moors, and that there were 
 more than 1,200 of them in Stamboul. They 
 seemed much pleased at being addressed kindly in 
 their own language, for I believe they are a perse- 
 cuted race here, as in most Mahometan countries.
 
 Letters from the Crimea, 39 
 
 The 5th Dragoon Guards arrived yesterday in the 
 11 Himalaya," with 318 horses on board, and only 
 lost two on the voyage. The " Jason " arrived on 
 Thursday with 216 horses of the artillery, having 
 lost but one. Had these large steamers been em- 
 ployed at first, we might have had the whole force 
 here a month ago, and two precious months would 
 have been gained. It is a great pity, as we shall 
 now do little or nothing this year, or begin the 
 campaign in the hottest season. Hitherto we can- 
 not boast much of our management of affairs, and 
 I fear that our heads of departments are too old in 
 their habits, if not actually in years, for the work 
 required of them. The Chief Commissary is a man 
 past seventy, and many others are mere London 
 men, very well at home but deficient in campaigning 
 qualities. However, we must hope for the best. 
 Yesterday I received three newspapers that had 
 been sent to me at Malta ; our postal arrangements 
 are also in want of improvement. I am afraid my 
 mule will prove a bad speculation, and am on the 
 look-out for a country horse to carry my baggage. 
 I shall be very glad when we really take the field, 
 as there is no honour to be gained here, and I hate 
 this time of inaction. I have just received a Bristol 
 paper of 22nd April ; it contains rather stale news, 
 as it announces my own departure. You cannot 
 think how well I am, or how much better I should 
 be if we only could have some real work. All this 
 dawdling is most irritating. 
 
 June l&t/i. I accomplished last night what I 
 could most have wished to do, had I been given my 
 choice of the great sights of Constantinople, and
 
 4 .Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 what I believe few strangers can boast of having 
 done, which was the being present in the Mosque 
 of St. Sophia during the night prayers, and while 
 it is illuminated for the Ramazan. I dined first 
 with Namik Pasha, a la Turque, my former dinner 
 there having been put off in consequence of the 
 illness of the person who procured me the invita- 
 tion. We went some little time before sundown 
 and sat in the garden, enjoying a most lovely view 
 over Scutari and the Sea of Marmora, with the 
 Bosphorus below us. In consequence of some very 
 important news from Silistria, neither Namik Pasha 
 nor his brother Pasha, whom he had asked to meet 
 us, were present, as they were called away to the 
 Council; but we were entertained by his son, a very 
 gentlemanly young man about eighteen, an officer in 
 the Sultan's guard, and the secretary, a nice civil 
 old Turk. As soon as sundown was announced we 
 proceeded into the- house, and after washing our 
 hands sat down. The table was a round brass 
 tray, with bread, two spoons, and cups of sherbet 
 for each person present. There was on the table 
 two tureens of soup, and a number of little saucers 
 one with a few bits of cheese, another a few olives, 
 some dried beef, and other trifles, with which we 
 played for a minute or two, and then attacked the 
 soups with one of our spoons ; they were both very 
 good, one tomato, the other vermicelli. When we 
 had taken enough, the soups and little saucers were 
 all removed, and the dinner then went steadily on, 
 one dish at a time being placed in the centre .of the 
 table. I need not describe them further than by 
 saying there were minces, stews, dressed vegetables,
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 4.1 
 
 and pastry, with a disli of fish in the middle of 
 dinner, all good and well cooked, not in the least 
 greasy, and I made a most excellent dinner. One 
 sweet dish was made of rose leaves ; with one dish, 
 soon after the commencement of dinner, a saucer of 
 salad and some cucumber was put beside each 
 person, and we ate strawberries all dinner time. 
 The last dish was preserved apples in syrup, after 
 which we rose from table, went into another room, 
 where we had pipes and coffee, talked for half an 
 hour, and then took our leave, to ride through 
 Stamboul and see the illuminations, accompanied 
 by a guard of the Pasha, who had orders to take us 
 into St. Sophia if it could be managed. We accord- 
 ingly rode through Tophana and Galata, crossed 
 the first bridge, and passed the Sublime Porte, just 
 the way I walked down a few days since to St. 
 Sophia. At the door we left our horses, the inter- 
 preter shuffled off his shoes, which I took in my 
 hand, to make believe I had taken off mine, as I 
 found a difficulty in getting . off my boots, and we 
 walked boldly into the mosque, having changed 
 our forage caps for fezzes, to make us less remark- 
 able in the crowd. I was in a scarlet jacket, and my 
 companion in his blue frock coat, notwithstanding 
 which we met with no hindrance, and remained for 
 nearly half an hour in the mosque. I never saw a 
 more extraordinary sight. It is an immense build- 
 ing, domed, covered with mosaic and painting, and 
 paved with enormous slabs of marble ; it was hung 
 with thousands of lights, and full of rows of devout 
 Mahometans, all engaged with their prayers. The 
 priest, accompanied by a sort of choir, recited what
 
 42 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 I believe are portions of the Koran, and the mul- 
 titude prostrated themselves (sometimes half, some- 
 times wholly) simultaneously. It had a most curious 
 effect, and I certainly could not feel any disposition 
 to laugh at a religious exercise which appeared so 
 sincere, though the postures were sometimes rather 
 grotesque. After having looked sufficiently at the 
 great body of the mosque, we went to see some of 
 the great gates, relics of the former owners of St. 
 Sophia, and then walked up one of the aisles 
 parallel to the centre dome, and to the door to 
 which we had sent our horses. No one said a word 
 to discourage us, but one of the priests (Imaums) 
 asked us not to walk through the worshippers, but 
 to keep to the aisles. This of course we did, and 
 I do not think that less would have been required 
 of a stranger in any place of worship. After leav- 
 ing St. Sophia we rode through the most crowded 
 parts of Constantinople, looking at the illuminations 
 at the other mosques (one represented the bombard- 
 ment of a fort, and another a carriage), ate some 
 cake and drank some sherbet at a shop on the way, 
 and then crossed the middle bridge over again to 
 Pera. Just then the moon was rising, and I think 
 I never saw anything more beautiful than the 
 Golden Horn. You must know that in Ramazan 
 all the minarets are illuminated with rings of oil 
 lamps, and as there are 270 mosques, some with 
 two, some three, and Sultan Achmet with five 
 minarets, you may imagine how pretty a scene it 
 is. The people were all in the streets sitting in 
 front of the coffee-houses smoking, all very well 
 behaved, very civil, and no drunkenness. I never
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 43 
 
 spent a more interesting night ; found my boat at 
 the landing-place ordered, and got home at half- 
 past 12. To-day I am on duty, have been into 
 Scutari, and am now trying to get cool again, as it 
 is close, and inclined to thunder. Captain Peel is 
 landing his troop of the llth Hussars at our wharf 
 to-day, and dines with Lord Lucan to-night ; I 
 shall be very glad when we are off, as we shall be 
 better in the field than idling here. 
 
 June loth. People talk largely here of there 
 being no fighting and of our all being home by 
 Christmas; that I do not believe, but think that we 
 shall come home next year. 
 
 June 16//2. We thought at 7 o'clock yesterday 
 evening that we were off to-day at 12 o'clock, but 
 heard about 9 that another general and his staff 
 were going up instead of us. I am perfectly indif- 
 ferent now, as I have done all I really want to do 
 here, and shall be glad to get near the scene of 
 action, and away from clean shirts and all such 
 luxuries ; the longer one has them the more 
 reluctant one is to part with them. I can 
 fancy dear Charlie and his chickens ; I wish I 
 could send him some from here ; they are so 
 pretty, crested and with feathered legs. We had 
 a dreadful affair here yesterday. There are two 
 transports up at Kooleli, embarking artillery for 
 Varna. Some of the sailors came on shore, behaved 
 themselves like brutes, quarrelled with the Turks, 
 and in the scuffle a sergeant of the Turkish soldiers 
 was killed. I was up to see him just now; his 
 skull was fractured, and he has two most serious 
 sword wounds in his body. The affair is still very
 
 44 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 mysterious, as it is doubtful whether soldiers were 
 not mixed up in the affray. I am sorry to say 
 our men have behaved very ill here, though they 
 are lambs compared to the French soldiers, who 
 are most uncouth brutes. I saw yesterday a person 
 just arrived from Varna; he says the country round 
 our camp there is delightful, abounding in game 
 and very healthy. The Russians, we hear, have 
 entirely failed against Silistria, and are suffering 
 much from sickness in the Dobruscha. Captain 
 Giffard, who was taken with the " Tiger," is not 
 dead, but has lost a leg. Lord Lucan has just been 
 to my room to tell me that he has settled to put 
 his servants and horses into a camp, to try some 
 new picket ropes. I was just stretching pre- 
 paratory to getting up, when I heard his voice. 
 He does not sleep after 4 o'clock, so that we never 
 know what the early morning may produce. 
 
 June 18^. The picketing went off very well, 
 with the exception of one horse, who broke three 
 head collars and two sets of heel ropes all to pieces. 
 After all the morning's work was done, I had to 
 go over with Lord Lucan to buy stores, as he had 
 put off doing this to the last moment. To mend 
 the matter, when we got to Galata he took it into 
 his head that he would not do it, and ran off with 
 the interpreter to Pera, where everybody speaks 
 French, leaving me to make all the purchases in 
 Constantinople, with a man to help me who could 
 not speak as much Turkish as I can. It was very 
 hot, and I was fairly tired out when I got home. 
 After dinner I walked down to where the horses 
 are picketed, and found all right, and that a civil
 
 Letters from the, Crimea. 45 
 
 man who has a garden and coffee-house near had lent 
 the servants Ian thorns, and given them every assist- 
 ance. After I had made my inspection, he begged 
 me to come and drink some coffee, to which I had 
 no objection, and soon found myself squatted on 
 a mat among a party of half-a-dozen. After a 
 time his son came a nice boy about as tall as 
 Charlie and was sent to the garden to fetch me 
 a dish of cherries, which he presented gracefully. 
 I sat there till 11 o'clock, when I wished the party 
 good night, and stumbled home over the stones of 
 Tchenquelquai. All this poor man's civility arose 
 from our having assured him that his garden 
 should not be injured, or his harem meddled 
 with. The people with whom I sat were all poor 
 people, but not in the least intrusive or rude 
 in their manners. My immediate neighbour on 
 the mat was an Indian, who was delighted to 
 find that I knew the names of some of the towns 
 in India, and evidently considered himself very 
 superior to the untravelled Turks. He was on the 
 Hadj to Mecca, though why he had wandered so 
 far I could not make out. He was one of a partyof 
 five or six Indians whom. I came upon in one of my 
 rides sleeping by a fountain. I slept like a child 
 after my day's work, only waking once to get 
 under my blanket, which I lie on in the beginning 
 of the night and under when it begins to get cold 
 towards morning. I have bought a baggage pony, 
 so am now set up for the campaign. It was 
 reported yesterday that Austria had signed a 
 treaty with the Turks and was to occupy Lesser 
 Wallachia, and act on the Russians in that manner,
 
 46 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 but one can never fathom the reports here, and the 
 place is such a Babel that you can hardly ever 
 arrive at the real truth of any occurrence, till it 
 appears in the English papers. Fancy a story 
 which is told in Turkish to an Italian, who tells it 
 to an Armenian, who retails it to a Greek, from 
 whom it travels through a French channel to an 
 Englishman, and you will see how it is garbled in 
 the process. I am just back from service at 
 the barracks, during which the Turkish soldiers 
 actually kept the people round us from talking and 
 interrupting the service ; this is somewhat different 
 from former intolerance. We have just got our 
 order to embark our horses at 6 to-morrow, and to 
 sail in the afternoon in the " Jason " for Varna. 
 The rascal who sold me the pony yesterday has 
 cheated me to-day by refusing to give him up 
 unless I give a higher price, so I am again 
 reduced to the mule. I am writing in a great 
 hurry, as I expect to be interrupted directly. I 
 must get over to Pera this morning to say good-bye 
 to Mrs. Neville. 
 
 June 2Qth, Slack Sea. We embarked yesterday 
 on board the u Jason" with a number of baggage 
 horses and a motley collection of artillery, 40 of 
 the 49th, a number of native drivers, and our own 
 party. I was up at 4 in the morning, and hard 
 at work till 4 in the afternoon, by which time my 
 day's work was over, and I had time to get into 
 some dry clothes before dinner. We are in a 
 superb ship with every comfort, and as I cannot 
 look forward to many more, I enjoyed last night's 
 bed very much. There was some difficulty about
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 47 
 
 the two transports we were to tow up to Varna, and 
 I was not sorry to hear that we were to anchor for 
 the night, thereby securing two quiet nights and a 
 long day for disembarking at Varna, where we 
 expect to arrive about 2 o'clock to-morrow morning. 
 I only hope that we are now going at the Russians, 
 as if we can only fight a good slashing action or 
 two I shall not so much regret coming back to 
 England, but return without a fight I cannot and 
 will not. The great point will be to beat the 
 enemy before we get any sickness among our men. 
 I believe Lord Raglan and Marshal St. Arnaud had 
 a consultation yesterday, at which I hope action 
 was decided on. We sailed at 5 this morning, but I 
 was too sleepy to get up and see the run through 
 the Bosphorus, and did not get upon deck till we 
 were close to the Black Sea, which we entered a 
 little before 8 o'clock. The day is beautiful, quite 
 calm, and as long as no great exertion is called for 
 not so very hot. We have just met three or four 
 steamers returning from landing troops at Varna. 
 I have been very busy rearranging my baggage, 
 of which very little now remains ; all the heavy 
 things are at Constantinople, and I have only kept 
 what is necessary ; even some of this I shall probably 
 send back from Varna. I hope we shall not move 
 on to-morrow, as I must buy some sort of baggage 
 animal, the mule being totally useless. 
 
 June 21st, Varna. We arrived here at half-past 
 7 this morning. The army is crippled for want of 
 transport and bad commissariat arrangements. 
 One division has had no meat for two days, though 
 close to Varna. It is shameful. I have been on
 
 48 Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 shore and returned; it is a poor wretched town. We 
 are waiting for orders, and do not know whether 
 we camp here or move on to Devna. 
 
 June 24^, Varna. Here we are still, and as far 
 as I can see likely to remain for some time. I 
 disembarked on Wednesday evening, as Lord Lucan 
 sent all the baggage on shore in a great hurry, and 
 me to look after it. I made a good dinner on 
 board, and then took all my goods, and in a very 
 short time established myself in my new abode. 
 My kit did not take long to unpack, as I have left 
 everything at Constantinople but my tent, port- 
 manteau, bedding, saddlery, saddle-bags, and wash- 
 hand basin ; and even this I am somewhat doubtful 
 at being able to carry. The next morning I w r as 
 in the sea at 5 o'clock, then very busy till 2, when 
 I went off to the " Jason," where we all dined, and 
 they put to sea directly afterwards. Only think of 
 the good kind captain, when he found that I did 
 not come off to breakfast, he came ashore himself 
 with as nice a breakfast as anyone could wish for, 
 tied up in a clean cloth, and two of his sailors to 
 make my tent more convenient, by fixing things to 
 tie up the door stretchers to the awning, &c. Yester- 
 day morning we were all up early, to visit the 
 cavalry camp at Devna, where Lord Cardigan has 
 the 8th and 17th, one squadron of the 13th, and the 
 5th Dragoon Guards. We started at a quarter-past 
 4 and reached the camp at 7, having done our 
 twenty miles in two hours and three-quarters. There 
 we stayed till 10. when we started again, and 
 reached home at half -past 1, having ridden forty 
 miles and been three hours at the camp in nine and a
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 49 
 
 quarter hours. While at the camp we were always 
 in the saddle, as we found the light regiments on 
 parade, marched past, had a drill, inspected the 
 lines, then gobbled a bit of breakfast in Lord 
 Cardigan's tent, inspected the 5th Dragoon Guards 
 in watering order, and trotted off again ; the 
 ride was beautiful, and the road very fair. We 
 were always in sight of the Lakes of Devna, 
 of which the lower is really very pretty, all 
 the southern slopes being covered with wood, 
 with occasional openings, quite park-like, and 
 the connecting channel being quite like the 
 Thames at Marlow. My lord gave me some tea 
 when I got home, which was very refreshing, and 
 I managed to get cool in the course of the after- 
 noon. Captain Peel is encamped about 500 yards 
 from us, so I went to have a chat with him, and 
 there found a Dublin acquaintance, a Mr. Barnard, 
 through whom I bought a ham, a cheese, and three 
 pounds of very good tea, so that I am quite set up for 
 the advance, as I have still another pound of tea, one 
 of cocoa, and about four of chocolate all precious. 
 I expect we shall often go empty before we see our 
 winter quarters, and if we may judge by present 
 commissariat arrangements there will be more blows 
 than grub for us. It is shocking, that with Silistria 
 only eighty miles off we can do nothing to save it, 
 from want of transport for our ammunition and food. 
 Last week Omar Pasha sent down 500 country 
 waggons to help us, and between the commissariat 
 and Sir George Brown (who is said to have refused 
 a guard) all but about forty got away again. The 
 cavalry are dropping in very fast, and I hear this 
 
 E
 
 50 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 morning that some of the Royal Dragoons have 
 arrived. It is quite cool and pleasant here, as we 
 are on a little plateau just over the sea shore, and 
 except for about half an hour yesterday it was 
 never oppressively hot ; but I am fearfully burnt, 
 and my face and hands are quite sore to-day. My 
 lord has gone off to inspect some troops of cavalry 
 which are encamped with the Duke's division about 
 2-J miles from here, so that I have time to write to 
 you while breakfast is preparing. It is not so very 
 easy writing on one's knees, with a nice cool breeze 
 blowing the paper about, but I must be very busy 
 if I do not manage to give you a line by every 
 opportunity I can find. The horses are very well, 
 and I hope to get a baggage pony to-day. I also 
 am remarkably well, sleep like a top, though the 
 ground is rather knotty and hard, and the ants and 
 mosquitoes rather importunate. My appetite is 
 good and my spirits never fail me. 
 
 June 2bth. I sent off a letter yesterday, and 
 the steamer had not sailed two hours before the 
 news reached Lord Raglan that the Russians had 
 raised the siege of Silistria and were in full retreat 
 across the Danube, that the Turks had destroyed 
 all the works and spiked their guns. We did not 
 hear this till this morning, when I was immediately 
 sent into Lord Raglan's to bring back the news 
 and learn what we were to do. There I heard all 
 the accounts more in detail, got a good breakfast, 
 and came home asrain with orders to do nothing-. 
 
 <-> o 
 
 My only wonder was that I did not find Lord 
 Lucan packed ready for the march, he was so full 
 of a move when I left. Instead of moving, I fully
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 51 
 
 believe that we are now more likely to stay here 
 than ever, and unless it is only a ruse on the part 
 of Russia to deceive us into advancing through 
 the unhealthy country, I should not now be sur- 
 prised at the campaign ending without a shot 
 being fired. Lord Cardigan has been sent for- 
 ward with five squadrons to report the state of 
 the country between him and the Danube, and 
 I shall look most anxiously for further news. 
 It appears that the Eussians moved off on the 
 night of the 22nd or morning of the 23rd. Three of 
 Lord Raglan's aide-de-camps were sent off last 
 night to an advanced guard, and one this morning 
 to Shumla, and from thence to Silistria. When 
 they return we shall probably learn what the next 
 move in the game is to be. We have a very pretty 
 little camp here on a rising ground close to the 
 sea shore, with a nicely wooded bank behind us and 
 a magnificent view in front looking across the bay 
 to the mountains. The French are encamped on a 
 plateau about 1,000 feet above the sea, directly in 
 front of us and about four miles north of the town, 
 while the English camp is about a mile from the 
 town to the west, with Sir George Brown's division 
 about eight miles further on the direct road to 
 Devna. We ought to have had a mail yesterday, 
 but owing to some mismanagement, our letters are 
 all gone to the fleet at Baltchik, and I do not 
 know when we shall get them. The weather to- 
 day is perfect, quite as cool as in England at this 
 season ; it is much cooler here than at Constanti- 
 nople, though I am ten times as much burnt as 
 ever. As I have left all my clothes at Constanti- 
 
 E 2
 
 52 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 nople and have torn what I have here, I am getting 
 rather shabby ; I wish I had you to mend me up. 
 I am happy to say that the ants have given up 
 biting me, and a most violent wind has cleared 
 away the mosquitoes, which had quartered them- 
 selves on me. My little French tent is a great 
 comfort, being much cooler than any of the English 
 tents, and if it were but a little bit larger I should 
 consider it quite perfect. The beasts are in high 
 preservation ; they have neither suffered from 
 camping out nor have they given any trouble by 
 kicking. I rode Jemmv to Lord Raglan's this 
 morning and found him very fresh, and old Punch 
 is remarkably cheerful ; if we stay here another 
 year I shall try and add another English horse to 
 my stud, as there is no pleasure in riding the beasts 
 of the country, at least not to a person with legs as 
 long as mine. We had a smart thunderstorm last 
 night, which has cooled the air ; my tent stood it 
 very well, and let no water in on me ; the only 
 thing that bothers it is the wind, which, as it is a 
 square tent, catches hold of the corners. Prince 
 Napoleon arrived yesterday. The ships were all 
 dressed, yards manned by the French, and he was 
 saluted by seven ships. It was very pretty, particu- 
 larly as the wind blew the smoke from us. The 
 Gallipoli people are coming up very fast ; one 
 regiment arrived yesterday, and another is to land 
 to-day. I had some business yesterday which took 
 rne all through Varna, and a more thoroughly 
 wretched place I never saw. I cannot conceive 
 anything more dreadful than a winter here ; it is 
 about n degree worse than the most miserable
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 53 
 
 towns in Ireland, and in winter I should think the 
 streets would be quite impassable ; they are bad 
 enough now. The French have of course the best 
 .houses ; there are a few shops of a wretched 
 description, but I dare say we shall soon be able to 
 buy stores, as one or two English merchants are 
 bringing up supplies. I cannot say I have suffered 
 much starvation at present, and have rather 
 increased in bulk since I left home than otherwise. 
 My ham turns out very good, and when it is gone 
 I must try and get another. My tea also is excel- 
 lent; I have just brewed a kettle full to drink 
 during the day, as I find it by far the best 
 beverage ; I shall try always to carry some with 
 me. This brew of tea is not improved by my ser- 
 vants having mode cocoa in my kettle, which must 
 henceforward be kept sacred from such pollutions. 
 In making my tea, my hat, which I wear for cool- 
 nees, and because it is out of my way on my head, 
 tumbled off and upset my inkstand, and I have had 
 to jump up and drive a grazing horse from my 
 dominions ; the beast was just preparing to paw a 
 hole in my canvas walls. 
 
 June 27^. As yet no definite news from 
 Silistria, but we may expect it this evening. I 
 had a bath in the sea at 5 o'clock yesterday morn- 
 ing, and enjoyed it much. Here we are very well 
 off for water, so I can always indulge in my tub. 
 I had your Malta letter yesterday, and had to pay 
 Is. 9d. for it, which I did not grudge in the least ; 
 I was very glad to get even old news of you. We 
 hear that orders have been sent to Scutari to hurry 
 up the cavalry and artillery, and it is thought that
 
 54 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 if the retreat of the Russians proves a real abandon- 
 ment of the provinces, we may possibly find our- 
 selves in the Crimea. I should like a campaign 
 there very well, as it is a beautiful climate. It is 
 very hot to-day, 96 in the tents, but there is a 
 good breeze, and I dare say it will become quite 
 cool after 3 o'clock. We had a marching order 
 parade this morning at 7 of such cavalry as we 
 have here three troops of the llth Hussars and 
 two of the Royal Dragoons. Fc-ur more ships 
 have come up, but we do not know what they are. 
 I have established a breakfast mess with Major 
 McMahon and Captain Morris, and we fare sump- 
 tuously on ham, rice, eggs, and tea not so bad you 
 will say. There are the baggage horses of a fresh 
 regiment of infantry just passing I think the 38th 
 from Grallipoli. By the time we have gone to the 
 Crimea we shall be pretty well used to embarking 
 and disembarking. Jemmy hates being slung, but 
 old Punch takes all very quietly, and thrives on 
 the journeyings ; they are great friends, and lick 
 each other's noses like two dogs as they stand side 
 by side. The 33rd are eleven long miles from here, 
 and it is too hot to make such a day expedition, 
 and until I have another pony I am obliged to be 
 careful of my horses. 
 
 June 2Sth. Yesterday afternoon it was so cool, 
 that I started at 3 and took Jemmy with a leading- 
 rein, so that he might get a few mouthfuls of nice 
 grass. I wandered for three hours in the hills afc 
 the back of the camp. The general formation 
 appears to be plateaux covered with poor grass, 
 and the slopes and ravines with brush. The country
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 55 
 
 is very thinly inhabited, and I could not find any 
 village in the direction I took. Master Jemmy 
 appeared to enjoy himself exceedingly, and 
 managed to pick tip a good deal of grass during 
 our ramble. I saw one tortoise, my companion 
 saw one snake, and we saw some kites and buz- 
 zards ; there is said to be plenty of game. I got 
 one or two fine views one as far as Devna, and 
 another towards the bay, where the fleet lies. 
 I hear that a captain and twelve men of the 8th, 
 with some Turks, have been sent to patrol beyond 
 the Danube, and with orders not to return without 
 seeing the Russians, so we shall soon learn where 
 they are. I only hope we may get at them, while 
 our men are healthy and full of spirit. There is 
 a Russian deserter, probably a spy, in the French 
 camp ; he reports that they lost a great many men 
 at Silistria. 
 
 July 2nd. Here we still are, doing nothing and 
 enduring much in the shape of heat, dust, and 
 wind. Yesterday and the day before were quite 
 awful a gale of hot wind, and such dust as one 
 reads of, but seldom happily meets with. To-day 
 we have the wind, but some violent rain during 
 the night has pretty well laid the dust; I every 
 minute expect my tent-pole to burst. The day 
 before yesterday I was out all day, which was 
 positively a comfort, as it was hotter in the tents 
 than in the sun. In the afternoon I had a delight- 
 ful ride up the south side of the lake in search of 
 grass for our horses, who are getting very low in 
 condition for want of proper food ; but I failed in 
 my mission, as the people \vith whom I arranged
 
 56 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 to bring two loads of grass never made their appear- 
 ance. I wish the two old pets were with you in 
 England, and that I had some brutes I did not care 
 about out here, for I cannot bear to see old favourites 
 leading such a life. The southern bank of the 
 lake is very pretty. I rode for two hours, some- 
 times through pretty green brush, then across a 
 nice open meadow, with a few scattered trees 
 about it, then past a ravine and another meadow, 
 and so on till I came to the cultivated country near 
 the head of the lake. There is plenty of water 
 from fountains, and the lake water is drinkable. 
 Every here and there are little sandy beaches, 
 where the buffaloes delight in coming down to lie 
 in the water. I do not think I have ever 
 mentioned the buffalo, which with oxen are the 
 common beasts of draught in this country ; he is a 
 hideous but very gentle beast, whose chief pleasure 
 consists in lying up to his neck in mud. Yesterday 
 I went into Varna to try for a baggage pony, in 
 which I failed, and I took that opportunity of 
 calling 011 the head of the medical department. 
 Three ships arrived yesterday with the majors 
 of the 1st .Royal Dragoons, 13th and llth Hussars. 
 There is a sad report here that the ship with the 
 head-quarters of the Enniskillens was burnt in the 
 Bay of Biscay, and that the colonel, six men, and 
 all the horses were lost, but the rest saved by 
 the " Tribune/' The French arc coming up very 
 fast ; three line -of -battle ships came up from 
 Gallipoli yesterday, disembarked their men, and 
 are off again to-day, we conclude for more. The 
 " Trent" also came up from Beyrout with 300 Syrian
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 57 
 
 horses, about 60 of which \vere landed last night, 
 and a more savage set of brutes I never saw ; they 
 are perpetually fighting. We had a very heavy 
 thunderstorm in the middle of the night, but I 
 only got about a teaspoonful of water into my 
 tent. I get on very well with my little canvas 
 house, and make the best of all difficulties, or 
 rather, try not to find any at all. It is a great 
 comfort being so well supplied with water here, 
 as I can always have either my bath of fresh water 
 or a dip in the sea ; I enjoyed the latter before 
 dinner yesterday. Oh, this hot wind ! it is worse 
 than the burning, calm days. However, the worst 
 of the heat here is quite bearable, and far less than 
 that of Gibraltar. 
 
 July 3rd. I had a most charming ride yester- 
 day afternoon to the camp of the division of Prince 
 Napoleon, on whom Lord Lucan wished to leave 
 his card. We left at a quarter to 4, and did not 
 get back till a quarter past 7, and we never 
 dismounted. I think the camp must be from eight 
 to ten miles distant. After leaving the town our 
 road lay up the hill which faces us as we look 
 across the bay, first through cornfields, and 
 afterwards through an endless succession of vine- 
 yards ; on reaching the top we found ourselves on 
 a regular plateau, over Avhich we had to ride 
 upwards of three miles before we reached our 
 destination. To my great surprise I found my 
 lord only wanted to leave his card and ride 
 away, so I saw nothing but the exterior of the 
 Prince's domicile. The French show much more 
 taste in their arrangements than we do, and
 
 58 Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 have bowers of branches, in some of which their 
 men are hutted. The Prince had an enclosure 
 of boughs round his tent, and apparently a large 
 bower in which dinner was laid out ; the ride home 
 was delightfully cool, and as the wind had fallen 
 we were free from the clouds of dust and sand 
 which filled the air all the early part of the day. 
 The great plain on which the French camp stands, 
 is quite bare of trees, but there appeared to be 
 a good deal of wood a few miles further on. My 
 lord made himself very agreeable and I enjoyed 
 my ride extremely, as I had long been wishing 
 to see the country behind Varna, but could never 
 find time. I must try again to-day about a baggage 
 animal, in which I hope I shall succeed, as I feel 
 very uncomfortable without one. I am so glad 
 dear old Jacko is not here ; I dare say he will 
 do me many a day's charger work yet. The 
 horses are beginning to fall away both in appear- 
 ance and strength, but I hear a whisper of there 
 being some English hay at the Commissariat ; they 
 should either provide us with hav, or with the green 
 forage the country produces. I must get dressed 
 or shall find myself sent somewhere without any 
 clothes on my back. How those brutes of Syrian 
 horses do fight ; what between continual inter- 
 ruptions and the bad ink I can hardly write a con- 
 nected sentence. I have just bought a baggage pony 
 for ten ponnds a strong but very hideous brute, 
 dun, with black mane and tail so now I am ready 
 to move. I have also bought some postage stamps, 
 so I shall be sure of my letters going all right. 
 I have also heard of a shipload of stores which
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 59 
 
 a merchant is bringing up, and lie promises we 
 shall always have some with the cavalry. In the 
 town I saw one of Lord Cardigan's aides-de-camp ; 
 he has been as far as Karasu, close to Trajan's 
 wall. He pushed on with so little judgment, that 
 he has knocked up all his own horses, and killed 
 two belonging to his aides-de-camp. This beauti- 
 ful day has ended in a most furious storm of 
 rain, which my tent has stood better than I 
 expected. I am now writing sitting on the ground 
 in a dry corner of it. We have had an unpleasant 
 accident to-day; one of the boats landing troop 
 horses upset, and the Royal Dragoons have lost 
 two horses. Captain ISolan also lost yesterday a 
 horse which he had brought up for himself from 
 Syria, and for which he gave eighty pounds there. 
 
 July 4ith. Such a night, torrents of rain and 
 clouds of mosquitoes ; an unfortunate infantry 
 officer who was sent here on fatigue duty and slept 
 in our mess tent has been horribly punished by 
 them. I believe Omar Pasha arrived last night, 
 as there was great saluting. 
 
 July 1th. Yesterday and the day before were 
 busy days with me. On Wednesday we all started 
 at 11 o'clock for the French camp to be present at 
 a review of the French troops held for Omar Pasha. 
 We were a party of seven, all in our best. On 
 reaching the north gate we found a crowd of French 
 officers, two or three detachments of French cavalry, 
 a pasha and his suite, and a half squadron of 
 Turkish lancers. There we waited for about half 
 an hour, when a guard of Spahis (Arabs in the 
 French service) made their appearance, escorting
 
 60 Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 the three great men, Omar Pasha, Marshal St. 
 Arnaud, and Lord Raglan, followed by an immense 
 staff, with whom we fell in, and proceeded up the 
 hill towards the camp. We went more to south- 
 ward than the road up which Lord Lucan and I rode 
 on Sunday, and enjoyed even a more beautiful view. 
 After riding about five or six miles we came on 
 the plateau, to the eastward of the camp of Prince 
 Napoleon's division, and there found the French 
 drawn up in colums of companies 28 battalions, 30 
 guns, and 4 squadrons of Chasseur d'Afrique, in all 
 22,000 or 23,000 men. It was a grand sight; we 
 rode down the line, up the rear, and they then 
 marched passed in quick time. I was very much 
 pleased with the appearance of the French infantry ; 
 they had a serviceable, hardy look, which I much 
 admired. The best looking troops are what they call 
 " Infantrie de la Marine" and the Zouaves, native 
 Frenchmen in Algerian dress, and the roughest 
 looking fellows you can well imagine. The artillery 
 also seem well appointed, and horsed with very 
 compact stout nags. As they passed the men 
 shouted, " Vive I'Angleterrc, Vive 1'Empereur, Vive 
 la Turquie," but the cheers were very very partial, 
 some regiments hardly cheering at all. As soon as 
 the review was over we turned our horses' heads 
 homewards. On the road we passed the squadrons of 
 the Chasseurs d'Afrique, very serviceable looking 
 fellows mounted on capital African horses. As soon 
 as we got home, which was at 5 o'clock, Lord 
 Lucan told me I must start off to Devna to warn 
 them for a review of cavalry and horse artillery 
 yesterday, so at a quarter before 7 I was again in
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 6 1 
 
 the saddle with some spare horses in charge ready for 
 my twenty-mile ride. It was not a very favourable 
 evening, as I had the wind in my back, which made 
 it very hot, but with one halt at a fountain (where I 
 watered the horses, shared a bit of bread and cheese 
 with the servants, and lighted a cigar). I reached 
 the camp at Devna at 11 o'clock. I managed to 
 get my horses something to eat, and with the 
 assistance of my cloak and a horse-cloth I made up a 
 bed in the tent of one of the 17th and slept like a 
 top till the sun woke me at 5 o'clock. A dip in the 
 little stream soon set me up, and when Lord Lucan 
 arrived at 9 o'clock I had had a good breakfast and 
 was ready for anything. We mounted a little 
 before 11, but were kept waiting for some time, as 
 Omar Pasha was inspecting the Duke's division. 
 The force out consisted of two troops of horse and 
 one battery of foot artillery, the 5th Dragoon 
 Guards, and a troop of the Royal Dragoons. They 
 all looked well, and it passed off capitally. Omar 
 Pasha is a striking-looking man, small, quiet, 
 determined, very grey, very gentle, and pleasing in 
 his manner, and very nicely dressed, with clean 
 linen, and clean white gloves rather un- Turkish. 
 The review over we rode back to camp, where some 
 charitable officer of the 13th Light Dragoons, whom 
 I never saw before, gave me some capital roast 
 turkey and a bit of rice pudding, and at half-past 4 
 I was again the saddle ready for the ride home. It 
 was a beautiful evening and we had a pleasant ride, 
 arriving home at 9 o'clock. I had been absent 
 twenty-six hours, out of which I was over fourteen 
 hours on Jemmy's back, and during that time he
 
 62 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 had only two feeds of barley and some chopped 
 straw. He is invaluable, and I think equal to any 
 Arab for endurance and pluck. He came home quite 
 wicked. I am sure he is as good a horse as any man 
 ever owned. Old Punch is also very well, though 
 he has had bad heels from getting over the picket 
 ropes. I wish they were both at home, for had I 
 suspected that we were to have no fighting, I never 
 would have brought such good horses to this 
 country. We have now a little English hay, which 
 is a great comfort, and which they enjoy mightily. 
 The weather is very fine, and yesterday and the 
 day before were quite cool and pleasant ; to-day is 
 also like an English summer's day. 
 
 July 8th. Cavalry ships are dropping in very 
 fast, seven having arrived with Royal Dragoons, 
 4th Dragoon Guards, and Enniskillens on board. 
 How sad the loss of the " Europa." A beautiful 
 day and cool breeze ; it is, however, even on a cool 
 day, 90 in our tents ; but I never felt better in my 
 life. 
 
 July 13^/i. Since I last wrote we have been 
 pretty quiet ; all the cavalry have arrived except 
 one ship of the 4th Dragoon Guards, but I do not 
 see much sign of our moving up to Devna or any- 
 where else. I am getting very tired of this do- 
 nothing business, and fear that our war is going to 
 end in some disgraceful arrangement. I do not 
 know who are most indignant at the present aspect 
 of affairs, the French or ourselves. I have been 
 talking to-day to a French colonel of the staff who 
 is going up in the " Spitfire " on some secret, 
 expedition, I believe to Kostendji. He says the
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 63 
 
 whole thing is a humbug, and that he does not see 
 how the matter is to end. If the Czar retreats from 
 the Principalities, and we ask for a guarantee for 
 future good behaviour, or indemnity for the expense 
 of the war, he will say, " Come and take it." I 
 quite agree with him ; and as the Russians have 
 completely depopulated the country in front of us, 
 I do not see how, if he does not quit the Princi- 
 palities, we are to drive him out of them. Not only 
 is our commissariat and our means of transport 
 quite as inefficient as the papers represent them to 
 be, but there is also a great scarcity of water up 
 the country ; here we are well supplied, and I have 
 found the water very wholesome. The only thing 
 that knocks me up is riding about in the sun with- 
 out my breakfast ; as soon as I have had a cup of 
 tea I am ready for anything. Yesterday I began at 
 quarter to 5, and was at work (never out of the 
 sun) till dinner time ; and except that I was very 
 sleepy by 8 o'clock, I was none the worse for it. I 
 generally get up with the sun, bathe in the sea 
 about every other morning, and then occupy 
 myself till half -past 7 or 8, when we break- 
 fast. After breakfast my day is pretty well 
 employed. We dine at 7, have a cup of tea in 
 Major McMahon's tent, and turn in about 10. 
 Yesterday I was over early at the camp of the 
 3rd Division, and after a nice cheerful breakfast 
 with Sir John Campbell and his staff, I went to 
 the camp of three French regiments of cavalry, the 
 Chasseurs d'Afrique, the 6th Dragoons, and 6th 
 Cuirassiers. They have all marched from Gallipoli 
 by way of Adrianople, and have a fearful number
 
 64 Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 of sore backs. Their horses are very strong, but 
 coarse and underbred, except those of the Chasseurs 
 d'Afrique, who ride country horses of a good 
 useful stamp. The cuirasses are very heavy, and 
 an officer told me they were awful things to wear 
 in this country ; their helmets also are heavier 
 than ours. The French certainly manage to settle 
 themselves very quickly in their camp, and have 
 many little contrivances which our stupid fellows 
 would never think of. Our infantry are very 
 much improved in many ways, but they do not 
 make the most of their rations as the French do. 
 There are a great many frogs in the marshes here, 
 and I constantly see the French fishing for them ; 
 yesterday I saw a soldier busily employed pulling 
 the hind legs off a batch he had caught. They also 
 eat the tortoises, of which there are quantities. 
 We are annoyed every evening about sunset by the 
 cockchafers ; they torment the horses dreadfully, 
 but we got over the difficulty with Punch and 
 Jemmy, by feeding them at the time they appear. 
 This is so engrossing an occupation that they quite 
 despise the flying plague. I saw an English horse 
 yesterday I think of buying instead of little Sultan. 
 I shall be very sorry to part with him, but the 
 other will be more useful, and the exchange would 
 only cost me five pounds. I took Jemmy to feed 
 in the bush the other day, and while I was cutting 
 some green food for old Punch, the ungrateful 
 beast walked off, and I did not catch him for some 
 time. The baggage pony has a bad cough in fact 
 this is an unlucky horse year for me. We had a 
 lady at dinner on Tuesday, Mrs. Cresswell, wife of
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 65 
 
 Captain Cress well of the llth Hussars ; they are 
 encamped near us in the middle of his troop, with 
 nothing- but a common circular tent. I am dread- 
 fully bothered by the ants, which not only bite me 
 most abominably, but get into all my sugar. I am 
 just going to my luncheon cold tea, without milk 
 or sugar, and ration bread. I find I stand the heat 
 much better since I have given up wine. I only 
 drink a little light wine at dinner. We had it 110 
 in a tent the day before yesterday ; this is very 
 hot, and it feels cooler out in the sun, because there, 
 one generally has a breeze, and the nights are 
 often cool, sometimes cold. I heard yesterday 
 of the proposal made by our friend ; I do not 
 think the life would quite suit him. How would 
 he like dining on a box, on Irish stew one day, 
 boiled mutton the next, boiled mutton the next, 
 and so on ? Capital fare for a healthy hungry 
 man, but hardly suited to his delicate appetite. At 
 the camp of the Highlanders Sir Colin Campbell 
 has established a regular bazaar, at which 
 place, only the soldiers are allowed to buy, 
 and the people are obliged to sell at a regu- 
 lated price. This has answered perfectly, and 
 in that camp only, are the supplies of country 
 produce regular and plentiful. We are very badly 
 supplied here, and in fact get nothing but milk, 
 unless we send to Varna ; there the people are 
 beginning to open their shops, which they shut at 
 first for fear of the new comers. There is a 
 French restaurant established, and they have put 
 names to nearly all the streets. I must say that 
 in all matters of arrangement they completely
 
 66 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 shame us. They are building ovens and bake 
 excellent bread, while we are at the mercy of 
 rascally contractors, who supply us with filthy 
 bread, black and full of grit ; the bread at 
 Devna is really hardly eatable. All our com- 
 missariat arrangements are abominable ; we shall 
 do no good till we have hanged a commissary or 
 two. I forgot to tell you that one ship of the 
 Royal Dragoons has come out with glanders on 
 board ; there are eleven suspicious cases, of which 
 three are to be destroyed. They are a splendidly 
 mounted regiment, the best I have ever seen ; 
 next to them the 13th ; the llth are the worst 
 mounted of all. We hear that Lord Cardigan has 
 returned from his patrol with 90 sick horses out 
 of 200; it was a most foolish expedition. We 
 have had two bad affairs up the country lately ; 
 four English officers who were at Rustchuk joined 
 the Turks in an attack on the Russian entrench- 
 ments at Giurgevo, and three of them were killed 
 a Mr. Burke of the engineers, Mr. Meyrell of the 
 75th (on leave), and an officer of the Indian army, 
 also on leave. They were each killed at the head 
 of a separate Turkish column, so the fighting must 
 have been pretty severe. Captain Parker, of the 
 navy, was also killed a few days since in attacking- 
 a Russian stockade, near the Sulina mouth of the 
 Danube. The flies are beginning to be very 
 troublesome, but we have no mosquitoes to compare 
 with those of North America. I am just going to 
 take old Punch into the woods to feed a bit, so 
 must say good-bye. 
 
 July \kth. Had a long ride yesterday on the
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 67 
 
 Adrianople road, and this morning I was riding 
 before breakfast. There is a furious land wind, 
 which brings clouds of dust, but on the hills where 
 I have been, it is delightfully cool and pleasant, and 
 quite bracing. I have been inspecting the troop of 
 Royal Dragoons which landed with glanders. I 
 hope they will keep it to themselves ; they shot 
 three yesterday, and have still twelve confirmed 
 and suspicious cases of farcey and glanders. We 
 heard yesterday that Omar Pasha had left Shumla 
 with 35,000 men, and had marched to Rasgrad en 
 route to Rustchuk. It is shameful that we lie here 
 inactive; they say we cannot move for want of 
 water, and have sent a Colonel Gordon, a son of 
 Lord Aberdeen, to report ; it is feared that his 
 report will chime in with home disinclination to 
 enter heartily on the war. I have written this 
 letter with difficulty, as the wind blows everything 
 in the tent about. 
 
 July ~L8th. I was off yesterday in pursuit of a 
 strayed horse of the Ermiskillens, which I managed 
 to capture. This afternoon Lord Lucan and I are 
 going to try and find a new road to Devna for 
 some of the cavalry who march to-morrow. My 
 present life is very dull work, as I have very little 
 regular work, and we are very badly off for books. 
 We have had such a thunderstorm ; while I was out 
 for my ride I saw a huge storm gathering, and 
 cantered home in time to get under shelter. It 
 thundered, it lightened, and poured for upwards of 
 two hours. I pitied the poor horses, but they did 
 not seem much the worse. I bought myself a 
 wooden bedstead yesterday, as I found my nice 
 
 F 2
 
 68 Days of a Soldiers Life. 
 
 iron one too heavy for a poor man with only one 
 baggage horse, and so left it at Constantinople. I 
 have been sleeping on the ground for the last three 
 weeks, and am none the worse for it, only the ants 
 bite me more than I like, and whenever it rains the 
 frogs get in my bed, added to which one of our party 
 found a snake in his ; so for thirty -five shillings I 
 bought a thing which at any rate will not break me 
 if I have to throw it away. We are now pretty well 
 supplied with stores, such as hams, cheese, tea, sugar, 
 but at double English prices. The country supplies 
 nothing, and we are very badly off for green food 
 or fruit. My lord's cook is going, which I hope 
 will lead to the general mess being broken up, as 
 there is too much form and ceremony consistent 
 with bad dinners. In my ride to-day I saw such a 
 beetle, with long jointed horns ; he was as big as a 
 small bird. The admirals, French and English, 
 have just arrived from the fleet, it is said to concert 
 a plan of operations with Lord Raglan and Marshal 
 St. Arnaud. 
 
 July 2Ist. I have a good deal to tell you since 
 I last wrote. As I then mentioned, there was a 
 consultation of admirals and generals, at which, 
 from what has since transpired, it was evidently 
 determined to do something, and we have since 
 been in a considerable state of activity and pre- 
 paration. Where we are going is not known, but 
 there appears little doubt that we are going out of 
 this part of the country forthwith. I rather incline 
 to the opinion that we are going to have a try at 
 Sevastopol, and I hope, for the good of the army 
 and our own credit, that such may be the case ; but
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 69 
 
 I fear our chiefs are too timorous to do the bold 
 thing, and that we may only be going to attack 
 Odessa, and so secure ourselves winter quarters in 
 good houses. Certain it is that the bay is going to 
 be cleared for the reception of the fleet and of a 
 host of transports, that boats are being built, and 
 report says the French army is to march forthwith 
 to Baltjik, Mangalia, and Kostenji, there to 
 embark for the same destination as ourselves, we 
 embarking in the meantime from Varna. I am 
 delighted. It is blazing hot again. Yesterday 
 was furious, and a dew at night like rain. To-day 
 between 6 and 8 it was so hot I could hardly get 
 dressed, but there is now a cool breeze, and in a 
 double roofed tent it is quite pleasant. We dined 
 in the middle of the day yesterday and went out in 
 the evening for a ride on the Adrianpole road to 
 look for the site of a battlefield of the Turks and 
 Russians in 1828; having found which, and enjoyed 
 the view from a mound in the centre of the en- 
 trenchments, we rode home over the hills at the 
 back of our camp. I have just bought another 
 Arab, a perfect darling, a picture of strength and 
 beauty ; lie is one of those bought in Syria by 
 Captain Nolan for a purpose since abandoned, and 
 Lord Raglan being anxious to dispose of them, I 
 have asked and obtained permission to purchase 
 one to which I took a great fancy when they 
 were first landed. I offered to take him instead 
 of compensation for Sultan, but have been allowed 
 to purchase him at cost price, thirty-four pounds. 
 Unfortunately since he came here he has lost an 
 eye, but as he does not go on his eyes I do not
 
 70 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 much care. I hope I may get him to England. 
 If I can, I shall keep both Arabs and sell the 
 baggage pony. The two Arabs have had a fight 
 already. The 44th have just marched past the 
 camp to take up a position on the hill, there to 
 be employed making fascines. This looks like a 
 siege, an operation I have a great wish to witness ; 
 and I only hope it may be Sevastopol, and not some 
 miserable place in Circassia, as is reported to-day. 
 Nobody knows anything, so that, except as indi- 
 cations of the feeling of the army, the reports are 
 all equally valueless. We have just been invaded 
 by a loose mule such a brute; he first charged 
 through our camp, causing a perfect stampede 
 among the horses, then charged about, attacking 
 everybody he came near, till lie was finally over- 
 powered and caught. The new Arab highly dis- 
 approved of him. 
 
 July 22nd. We are all going to dine on board 
 the " Bellerophon " to-day, which will be a pleasant 
 change. The French cook departed for England 
 yesterday. I had nothing to send or I should have 
 made up a little parcel for you; there will, how- 
 ever, be plenty of opportunities, as there are 
 constantly officers going home, some ill in health, 
 some in temper. Notwithstanding the furious heat 
 I am in excellent health ; the only time I feel clone 
 is when we have a clamp heat. I wish I could 
 carry a few more shirts; they would be a great 
 comfort on these broiling days. The "Kangaroo" 
 came in yesterday with drafts for some of the regi- 
 ments, and the "Vulcan" the day before with 
 drafts for the Guards. We hear that two divisions
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 7 1 
 
 of the French marched yesterday. There was a 
 great fire near one of their camps on the plateau 
 opposite us the night before last, which was pro- 
 bably burning their huts and kitchens, that being 
 a common habit of theirs before leaving a camp. 
 They are said to have moved in the direction of 
 Bazardchik and Kostenji. 
 
 July 23rd. AVe move to-morrow to the very place 
 on the Adrianople road to which I rode last week. 
 The whole army takes up new camps to-morrow, 
 partly for health's sake, partly in anticipation of a 
 further move. We had a most agreeable dinner on 
 board the " Bellerophon " yesterday, and really 
 enjoyed a plentiful and well-cooked dinner ; add to 
 this a hearty welcome from the captain, who is a 
 brother of our Assistant Adjutant- General, and 
 there is reason for being pleased at our entertain- 
 ment. In the afternoon two French officers came 
 over from the French cavalry camp on the part 
 of General Maurice, to invite us to a review this 
 morning. Notwithstanding late hours last night I 
 was up at 4, and at half -past 5 we were off, as the 
 review was at half -past 6. There were two regiments 
 of Chasseurs d'Afrique, the 6th Dragoons, and the 
 6th Cuirassiers. I found a pleasant companion in 
 one of the French aides-de-camp, and we rode 
 together all the morning, I talking my best French, 
 and he most good - naturedly explaining all I 
 required. The Chasseurs d'Afrique are the best 
 light cavalry I have ever seen, the 6th Dragoons 
 very so-so, loutish, and mounted on very under- 
 bred horses, but the Cuirassiers were better mounted 
 and better turned out, still both very inferior in
 
 72 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 physique .and appointment to our heavy cavalry. 
 We inspected the line at open order, they then 
 executed two or three manoeuvres to change their 
 ground, and march past by squadrons at a 
 gallop was the order, but all trotted except those 
 who chose to gallop. I do not fear comparisons ; 
 and as the 6th Dragoons had sixty-six sore backs 
 in four squadrons, in a march certainly not more 
 severe than ours from Brighton to Newbridge, I 
 am beginning to doubt some of Colonel Ainslie's 
 unceasing praises of French cavalry, at our expense. 
 We were home again at half-past 9, when I 
 found my breakfast companion had drunk up all 
 the milk, so I have been swilling oceans of tea like 
 the lumbermen in Canada. I am very glad we 
 are going up on the hill, as what between dead 
 horses, &c., &c., our camp begins to smell a little, 
 and I am always fond of a change. The 3rd 
 Division is coming here to cut and make fascines, 
 and also, it is said, to be near the point of em- 
 barkation. I believe we shall embark and dis- 
 embark again nobody knows where. I hope 
 somewhere that it will be a credit to attack. I 
 don't like your little wars, and want to see 
 something undertaken w r hich will try our mettle 
 and raise the spirits of the army. Colonel Gordon 
 has returned from Kostenji. He only saw a small 
 and evidently detached party of Cossacks across the 
 Danube at the point he reached. It is blowing 
 quite fresh from the sea to-day, so we have it 
 comparatively cool and very pleasant. The great 
 heat never seems to last more than three days at a 
 time. I have just been to pet the naughty pony,
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 73 
 
 who, in common with the rest, has his nose deep 
 in a feed of barley. "We shall get grass for 
 them up on the hill, and I intend them to be as 
 fat as pigs before we leave. I think I can boast 
 of their being in better case than any other horses 
 in the camp. 
 
 July 21th, Kurtepe. Our new camp is on a 
 height at the head of a ravine which runs down to 
 the Black Sea, towards which we look ; it is blazing 
 hot, but the situation is healthier than where we 
 were before ; we are further from water, and five 
 miles from Varna, so that we shall have a hard 
 push to get much to eat. Even milk is not to be 
 had ; as to eggs I have not seen one for a month. 
 I never saw so horrid a country as this ; there are 
 no villages, no farms, no cultivation but barley 
 and a little Indian corn, and water very scarce. 
 I did not think Europe owned such a resourceless 
 district. I hope and trust we may soon get out of 
 it. I think we shall know in a few days what is to 
 be our fate, but never before was the spirit of a fine 
 army flittered away as this has been. Nothing 
 would be more cheering to the army than to move 
 in any direction. We have been too long stationary 
 both at Scutari and here, and I fear the morale of 
 the army has suffered accordingly. The worst isj 
 that the army is beginning to doubt its chiefs. I 
 have been occupied with the help of an interpteter 
 and commissary, in buying standing barley for the 
 cavalry. We had a great parlance with the native 
 owners, who were very much frightened at first, 
 and could hardly be persuaded that we meant to 
 deal fairly by them ; but I not only succeeded in
 
 74 Days of a Soldier 1 s Life. 
 
 reassuring them, but in the end made a fairly good 
 bargain. The nags are all well ; the new Arab is a 
 sad rascal. I took him with me to the fountain 
 yesterday morning to bathe, and the beast broke 
 away from the tree to which he was tied and was 
 off in an instant. I knew it was no use following 
 him then, so I finished my wash in peace, and then 
 walked quietly home, and sent Stockwell to find 
 him, which he soon did. I have managed lately to 
 get them some grass, which has filled them out a 
 little after their short commons. I generally ride 
 two of them and often three a day, as in this climate 
 riding is a pleasanter exercise than walking. Stock- 
 well has named the pony I bought in Constantinople 
 Charlie. Among the various flying reports, there 
 is one which it is feared is true, namely, that we 
 have kept so bad a look out off Sevastopol, that a 
 Russian war steamer has been out and burnt two 
 Turkish vessels. On the other side of the Black Sea 
 it is also said, the Russians have built two large war 
 steamers at a place called Nicolai, which have suc- 
 ceeded in making their way to Odessa. There is a 
 very unpleasant feeling as regards the inactivity of 
 Admiral Dundas. Admiral Sir Edmund Lyons is to 
 superintend the transport of the army to the 
 Crimea, and is now here for that purpose. All the 
 troops left near Varna are now up here, as the 
 heights are considered more healthy than the low- 
 lands. 
 
 August 2nd. A lovely day after a very cold 
 night, with a dew that would wet a man to the 
 skin if exposed to it. Our tents are as wet in the 
 morning as if it had rained. I slept not only under
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 75 
 
 my Spanish blanket, but with my great cloak over 
 my legs, and a shooting jacket round my shoulders. 
 My only objection to this camp is the beasts ; we 
 swarm with ants, beetles, and grasshoppers, snakes 
 and centipedes are tolerably abundant, and the 
 whole country teems with tortoises. On the day I 
 rode to the Balkan I felt something nip my leg, 
 and I pulled out a centipede as long as my finger ; 
 he did me no harm, but I don't like such com- 
 panions. The Turkish fleet (seven line-of -battle 
 ships) came in to-day from Constantinople; they all 
 bring boats for landing troops. 
 
 August 6f/i. I have nothing particular to tell 
 you. I not only enjoy good health, but in the midst 
 of a great deal of depression and discontent I 
 manage to keep up my spirits and even hope, when 
 that most valuable supporter appears to have 
 deserted nearly everybody else. I rub on very 
 tolerably, but the army generally is very much 
 depressed at being kept idle during this trying 
 heat, in this most detestable province. There are 
 certainly preparations making on a large scale for 
 a landing somewhere, but so completely has all 
 confidence in our chiefs, and in the honesty of the 
 campaign, disappeared from our ranks, that even 
 they do not convince us of the reality of the talked- 
 of move. Fascines and gabions are making in 
 large quantities, boats for landing are made, and 
 being made, great stores of ammunition and pro- 
 visions are being collected, but so discouraging are 
 small circumstances which leak out occasionally, 
 that our men will not be convinced that anything 
 is honestly meant. In the meantime the season is
 
 76 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 fast approaching when the Black Sea becomes a 
 very troublesome addition to our difficulties, while 
 on the other hand we must either fight for a winter 
 quarter, or make a discreditable retreat to one, 
 without having done a single thing to satisfy 
 people at home, or gratify the fine spirit with which 
 the army commenced the expedition. This is a 
 true but somewhat gloomy picture, but far less so 
 than nine out of ten of those which the last posts 
 have carried to England. A party of French that 
 inarched to the Dobrudscha about ten days ago, 
 returned, saying they could get neither water nor 
 wood for cooking with, nor does the country pro- 
 duce a single thing to eat, added to which 
 they lost 160 men in one night from sickness, 
 out of about 2,500 at the very utmost. They 
 had a small affair with a Cossack party a few 
 days since. A French officer in charge of a 
 party of Turkish irregular horse came suddenly 
 upon a Cossack patrol, and of course immediately 
 charged them, but being deserted by his valiant 
 followers was unhorsed by the Cossacks, who gave 
 him eight or ten lance prods, none of which, however, 
 penetrated very far. His men meanwhile plucked 
 up courage, and returning to his rescue, killed no 
 less than eight Cossacks on his body, and brought 
 him off rather damaged, but not seriously hurt. 
 The Zouaves hearing of this affair made a rapid 
 night march to endeavour to catch them, and it 
 was I believe on that occasion that they lost the 
 160 I before mentioned. However that may 
 be, the French are now as anxious to attack 
 Sevastopol as we are. Previously they were
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 77 
 
 very reluctant to leave here, but they are now 
 ready to lose any number of men rather than 
 remain. I was in Varna on Friday on business in 
 the hospital, and the heat and smells were perfectly 
 overpowering, I never go there unless I am 
 obliged ; the difference of temperature is very 
 great, and the air here is pure, even when hottest. 
 We now dine at 2 o'clock, which I do not like, we 
 then have tea at half-past 7 or 8, talk till 10, a pipe, 
 and to bed; I get up at half-past 5, and ride till 8 
 o'clock breakfast. We have lately had some mar- 
 malade, which is a most delicious relish to our 
 bread, which is but bad stuff, something like the 
 trash I am writing to you it will do when you 
 can't get any better ; with which sage remark I shall 
 close my letter. 
 
 August *lth. Such a storm about 3 o'clock yes- 
 terday afternoon. It had been gathering for some 
 time, which made me bundle up my letters and 
 cover up my small possessions. I had hardly done 
 this before it came down like a torrent, washed 
 through the tent as if it were made of brown paper, 
 and I thought was inclined to wash us all out of 
 this filthy province. My waterproof cloak was over 
 my bed, and out of it I ladled the flood in a tin 
 mug. The heat was awful all day, 100 in 
 a tent, and though it fell to 80 during the 
 rain, it soon got up again, I had to go to dine 
 with a Colonel Dupuis of artillery, about half a 
 mile off. However, it was a very pleasant dinner ; 
 these wettings are a great nuisance, as the action 
 of the sun afterwards spoils everything. Poor 
 Jemmy suffers much from these storms. I wish I
 
 78 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 had higher rank, for then I should be able to carry 
 some better covering for the poor beasts, as I should 
 be allowed a second baggage horse. Thank good- 
 ness we have a nice sea-breeze to-day, which makes 
 it quite pleasant after the furious heat of Saturday 
 and yesterday. I hope to get a ride after dinner 
 to-day, as the heat before breakfast was so sickening, 
 I could not screw my courage up to going out ; I 
 find that the worst time of the day, and far more 
 trying even than the mid-day sun. As to cam- 
 paigning without tents here, it would be impossible ; 
 no man, however hardy, could stand the night 
 dews after the relaxation caused by the heat of the 
 day ; and yet I have heard it recommended that 
 they should be taken from us, because the Russians 
 did without them; but they lost sixty thousand men 
 by disease in a two years' campaign. 
 
 August Qth. I am almost at an end of my paper 
 and envelopes a great bore. However, I now really 
 anticipate the time when my letters will be not 
 only scrawls written in leisure hours, but moments. 
 The report is strong that we are to begin to quit 
 Bulgaria on the 12th, and I hope before this letter 
 goes to be able to give you some more certain news. 
 I quite forget to tell you that I have highly improved 
 my personal appearance by having my hair cropped 
 a la Jack Sheppard ; it is such a comfort, so easy to 
 keep cool and clean and I shall continue it till the 
 weather begins to get cold. This morning we had 
 an early drill of the 4th Dragoon Guards, and the 
 4th and 6th Dragoons ; in the midst of it I felt 
 something nip my right arm, and on shaking it, out 
 dropped a centipede at least four inches long. I
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 79 
 
 suppose the beasts like me, as this is the second I 
 have had. I do not think the cavalry will go with 
 the first batch, but hope we shall arrive in time to 
 see .Fort Constantino taken, though I do not feel at 
 all sure we are going to do so plucky a thing as 
 attack Sevastopol. I hope we shall go soon, or the 
 army will not have stamina left to thrash even the 
 Russians. This is a most weakening climate, and I 
 never saw men so changed as our fellows are in the 
 last month at Varna. 
 
 August \\tli. We had a tremendous fire in 
 Varna yesterday night. As I rode home between 
 7 and 8 I saw a great smoke rising from the other 
 side of the bay, but thought it arose from burning 
 the filth outside the town ; before we went to bed 
 we heard that it was a fire near the main gate. I 
 W 7 as very sleepy, and notwithstanding Stockwell had, 
 while I was out riding, pulled a snake two feet long 
 from under my bedstead, I tumbled in arid fell fast 
 asleep. About a quarter to 12 I was roused to go 
 and turn out two squadrons of cavalry, as the fire 
 had gained a fearful height, and the general of 
 engineers commanding in the town had sent an 
 officer out to beg assistance. When I got up to the 
 hill where the 4th and 6th are camped I could see 
 the whole of the fire across the bay, and should say 
 that it was quite a quarter of a mile in length. I 
 remained up till 1, when having nothing further to 
 do I went to bed again and slept till 7. The fire 
 is now pretty well subdued, but it has burnt down 
 nearly all the best shops in Varna, and done a great 
 deal of damage. Fortunately it did not reach either 
 the engineer stores, or the magazines, but a good
 
 8o Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 deal of our commissariat barley, and a store of shoes 
 have been destroyed. It is pretty well known that 
 the fire was the work of incendiaries, and it is said 
 that during the fire five Greeks were found by the 
 French increasing the conflagration, and were 
 immediately disposed of. I am writing to you in 
 an arbour of boughs, which we find much cooler than 
 a tent. Do you remember a young police officer 
 named de Bordieu, who was at Tramore while we 
 were at Waterford ? He volunteered to come out 
 here on the commissariat staff, arrived on Friday 
 last, was ordered up here to do duty with this 
 division on Saturday, came, dined with the Com- 
 missary in charge, was taken ill in the night, and 
 died on Sunday night. I never knew it was a 
 person I had known previously, till Captain Grant 
 told me so on Tuesday, and was much vexed at 
 finding it out so late, as the poor young fellow died 
 without a friend near him, and it might have been 
 a comfort to see me, even though I had known him 
 so slightly. I am happy to say we have overcome 
 our difficulty about milk ; the breakfast mess are 
 the happy owners of two goats, and we have now 
 a good bottle full morning and night. I long for 
 an egg for breakfast, as I have a charming appetite, 
 and our dinners are not so plentiful, but that the 
 other meal is greatly to be looked to. What lies 
 the papers tell ; nearly all the information in them 
 is incorrect one way or another ; do not believe 
 anything but what I tell you. Lord Raglan has 
 gone up to the fleet at Baltchick for a couple of 
 days; he will find Varna rather altered when he 
 comes back. A good many doctors have struck
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 81 
 
 work, also some commissaries, and a good many 
 have really been knocked up with hard work and 
 climate. A captain of the 42nd has sent in his 
 papers to sell (he is a bold man), the first to do so 
 since we landed, and I expect, the ice once broken, a 
 good many will follow his example. I have taken 
 Jemmy to water in the cool of the evening ; he is 
 looking wretchedly thin and ill ; he feels the violent 
 cold rains in contrast with the hot weather. Old 
 Punch thrives on it all in a most wonderful manner. 
 Stockwell and Fox have also been ill, but are now 
 better. My only ailment is the toothache, from 
 which I have been suffering and am likely to suffer, 
 as the bakers have struck work, and we are likely 
 for the future to get nothing but hard biscuit. 
 
 August \Wt. I rode to the Kamtchik River 
 yesterday, and a more uninteresting river I never 
 saw. It is about ten miles from this to the bridge 
 which the French built over it when their troops 
 were coming up from Adrianople. About 200 
 yards on this side of the bridge they also 
 threw up a small field work, which would hold 
 three guns and 150 men. The river is a 
 dirty green colour with slimy banks, and the 
 trees grow down into it at each side. At the 
 bridge we found a Turkish guard-house and a 
 wretched Bulgarian drinking shop. I asked for 
 coffee, none ; bread, none ; milk, none ; there was 
 nothing to eat and nothing to drink but Kamtchik 
 water and a filthy spirit called raki, flavoured with 
 anise, on which a Bulgarian boor was gradually 
 getting drunk. The ride beyond the villages to 
 which I went a fortnight ago was pretty, being
 
 82 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 through an open oak-wood. The day was tolerably 
 cool and pleasant, but the flies were awful, and 
 drove old Punch nearly frantic. Coming back we 
 tried to get a drink of milk at a village, but could 
 extract nothing from the sulky boorish inhabitants. 
 I hope fate will never again lead me into this 
 province. On our return we found dinner over, 
 so some bread and cheese, tea, and a biscuit sent 
 me to bed in fine racing trim, and being woke in the 
 night by the chaplain (who had the nightmare), I 
 was so hungry that 1 could have eaten a shoe. 
 Varna is still smouldering. I am sorry to say 
 we have lost 300,000 pounds of biscuit by the 
 fire, but I believe that will not delay our depar- 
 ture above a day. There is a rumour that we 
 begin to embark at once, and that the French 
 got about thirty of their guns on board yester- 
 day. This looks like business. A fine sea breeze 
 to-day, which makes me feel quite lively ; it is most 
 refreshing after the land wind of last week. The 
 new pony is very bad with rheumatism, so bad 
 that he can hardly move. I am told it is a com- 
 plaint of the country, another of the peculiar 
 beauties of Bulgaria. Pray continue to send me 
 papers ; it is a great amusement having them, and 
 I can almost at times fancy I am not quite so far 
 from home. 
 
 August Vltli. Having had an excellent break- 
 fast of the unaccustomed luxury of three eggs, I 
 am in high spirits, particularly as there appears no 
 doubt that we are going to try for Sevastopol 
 with about 55,000 men, if we can muster so 
 many out of both armies, which is very doubtful,
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 83 
 
 and as soon as the fleet are sufficiently healthy to 
 take their part in the business. I know that all 
 preparations are made for our doing so, and shall 
 be much disappointed if our chiefs find their pluck 
 fail them at the last moment. Such a step would 
 be fatal to the morale of the army, and I trust that 
 we shall still keep up the character of our country, 
 and not suffer a whole year to pass away in idle- 
 ness. The harbour is full of shipping, English, 
 French, and Turkish, and great numbers of boats 
 for landing have been provided, and there have 
 also been fresh piers built for embarkation. How 
 glad we shall all be to quit Varna, and, I may add, 
 this province. Our losses from sickness lately have 
 been very great, though I have said nothing to you 
 about it. The papers will now be so full of it that 
 you may just as well hear the truth from me. 
 We have lost nearly 700 men out of the 
 army, and I am sorry to say that in some regi- 
 ments of cavalry the loss has been ten per cent. 
 The 5th Dragoon Guards, 4th Dragoon Guards, 
 6th Dragoons, and Royal Dragoons have been the 
 chief sufferers, the first having lost thirty-five 
 men, and having an immense number of sick. A 
 great many officers have been ill, and a great 
 many have gone away, some really ill, some 
 disgusted, but hitherto very few deaths. I am 
 thankful to say I have not had an hour's illness, 
 nor have we had any to speak of amongst ourselves, 
 though most of the servants have been more or less 
 ill, and one of Lord Lucan's has died. The French 
 have suffered awfully, much more than we have, 
 which I attribute to want of care and unwholesome 
 
 G 2
 
 84 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 feeding. Much of the sickness has arisen from the 
 men sleeping- on the ground, the exhalations from 
 which are very great. I had a long ride yesterday 
 in search of food, as since the fire we have been 
 quite deficient of anything but very tough beef. 
 I started about half -past 10 with an interpreter, 
 and an old Turk who had come in about some 
 barley, and who promised if we would go to his 
 village that he would find us fowls and eggs. His 
 village was one of those which I have been at twice 
 before. We had a pleasant ride, as the old man 
 was very chatty and the day was fine. I was 
 detained nearly an hour and a half on the road, 
 trying to settle a dispute about some barley which 
 the artillery had taken, so that we did not reach 
 the village till about 2 o'clock. The old man 
 showed us to the vestibule of the mosque, which 
 appeared to be the guest house of the village ; 
 here we were soon joined by the priest, who was 
 very civil and made us welcome to his domain. 
 The old man soon made his appearance with some 
 bread, some fried eggs, and a sort of sherbet made 
 from over-ripe apples. I made a very hearty 
 luncheon on the bread and eggs, but declined the 
 sherbet, as I do not consider fruits wholesome at 
 this time. When the old man had carried back 
 the tray to his house, he reappeared with a good 
 bundle of hay for our horses, which we had 
 previously tied to the railings of the mosque. 
 The old fellow then excused himself, having some- 
 thing to do in his farmyard, and left us to be enter- 
 tained by the Imaum. First one villager dropped 
 in, then another, all very civil, and we sat and
 
 Letters from the Crimea* 85 
 
 talked and smoked many pipes, and the Imaum 
 gave us coffee, and my companion, with the 
 assistance of the villagers, devoured a delicious 
 melon, from which I abstained with regret, and 
 we smoked more pipes; but no chickens appeared, 
 nor did old Hussein return from his farmyard, ss 
 that I began to fancy we were to return empty- 
 handed. At last, about half-past 4, one man 
 brought four eggs, another one chicken and ten 
 eggs, then Hussein appeared staggering under a 
 bowl of eggs, and a boy followed him with five 
 chickens ; and so it went on, till at half -past 5 we 
 rode in triumph from the mosque with forty-six 
 eggs, nine chickens, and a couple of loaves of 
 bread, which Hussein presented to us. It was a 
 lovely evening, quite pleasantly cool, and as we 
 rode through the corn-fields, with nice oak-trees 
 scattered about and cattle grazing in the stubble, 
 I could almost have fancied myself at home. Any 
 such fancy was quickly dispelled by our meeting 
 a party of about a hundred dismissed Bashi 
 Bazouks, most ill-looking scoundrels, one of whom 5 
 seeing my hands full, rode at me, I conclude with 
 the hope of giving me a spill. I luckily saw his 
 intention in time, not only to frustrate his attempt, 
 but to shake him out of his own saddle, after which 
 feat, I slipped a hand into my pocket and produced 
 a pistol, which effectually cured the rest of the 
 party of any desire for familiarities. We got 
 home about 7, and I do not know when I have 
 enjoyed any food more than my eggs yesterday 
 morning. I kept a dozen for our breakfast mess 
 and handed over the remainder to my lord's cook.
 
 86 Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 The embarkation has been ordered to commence 
 on Monday, but I doubt whether it will not be 
 put off for a week in consequence of the sickly 
 state of the ships. I have been riding about all 
 the morning pointing out water to the three 
 regiments which have been sent up here, and 
 very warm work it is. Two of the regiments 
 look pretty well, but the Guards, very lean, 
 gaunt, and sickly. The Light Division we hear 
 are unable to march from sickness. The French 
 are hard at work embarking artillery to-day. 
 As soon as possible I must go into Varna to see 
 the chief engineer about our wells. We are 
 likely to be very short of water now, as we have 
 about 4,000 men round us. 
 
 August 22nd. I am afraid you will have a 
 shorter letter than usual this post, as I am full of 
 business, having had the foraging of the cavalry 
 put into my hands in consequence of the supineness 
 of the commissaries. I was despatched on Sunday 
 at 2 o'clock to find barley, as Lord Lucan dis- 
 covered that our commissaries had been doins: 
 
 o 
 
 nothing, while those of other divisions were brine 1 - 
 
 <_> / O 
 
 ing in plenty of barley. I started with our chief 
 interpreter, and rode off to a village on which I 
 have had my eye for some time. We had a charm- 
 ing ride across a fine valley, full of wild grass, and 
 on to the plateau beyond, where, as I expected, I 
 found not only a village but plenty of barley. As 
 soon as I arrived I summoned the chief men of the 
 village, and at once secured all the disposable 
 barley, left the interpreter to guard it, and galloped 
 back to camp, hoping to be able to send carts for it
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 87 
 
 at once. Of course the commissaries were out of 
 the way, so I despatched a servant with a blanket, 
 and some comforts to my assistant, and started 
 again early yesterday morning with plenty of 
 means of transport. I got in yesterday thirty 
 waggon and forty horse loads, and to-day I hope 
 nearly as much will be brought in by the commis- 
 saries. I did not get the barley paid for till 2 
 o'clock, and then started with a commissary, two 
 interpreters, and four dragoons, hoping to reach 
 another village at about three hours' distance ; but 
 so furious a rain set in that I was obliged to turn 
 my steps homewards. I was the only one of the 
 party without a cloak, and for an hour and a half I 
 was the recipient of all the overcharged clouds 
 could well bestow. The ruts became streams, the 
 roads rivers, in fact I have seldom seen such rain ; 
 added to this, the rest of the party had not the 
 same faith in my bump of locality that I myself 
 possess, and thought we had lost our road home and 
 were going in a totally different direction. Happily 
 I persevered and brought all home in safety. I 
 was quite glad to see my little tent again, the more 
 so that I found not a drop of water had come in, 
 and that dry clothes and some dinner were await- 
 ing me. A pipe and a cup of hot tea made me 
 quite fresh again, and I woke this morning as if I 
 had not been wet for a year. My tent is garnished 
 with drying clothes, and looks like a ragman's shop. 
 I have just been called to look at a flight of locusts; 
 we seem fated to experience all the pleasant visita- 
 tions of the country. The sickness is I hope dis- 
 appearing, though the Guards are still suffering.
 
 88 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 August 23rd I must start off again either this 
 afternoon or to-morrow morning in search of barley. 
 We have had such a cold night, and this morning 
 it is quite unpleasant; these sudden changes are 
 very trying. The plan of our campaign is settled, 
 but do not be surprised if it all ends in smoke. I 
 can scarcely credit, that if an attack was intended 
 on Sevastopol so much would be said about it. We 
 are to land about seven miles from Sivernaya, 
 march four miles to a river, the passage of which 
 will be disputed, cross, and march three miles 
 further to the Russian entrenched camp this will 
 be a second Ferozeshah affair arid a short distance 
 beyond their camp stands Fort Sivernaya, the 
 object of our affections, and which commands 
 Sevastopol itself. We take 50,000 men, French 
 and English, and 10,000 Turks. Part of the 
 squadron cover our landing, while the rest lie 
 off the mouth of the harbour, to thrash the 
 Eussian fleet if they can tempt them outside. All 
 I hope is that it may not end in bosh, and that by 
 the time this reaches you we may have put an end 
 to Russian power in the Black Sea. 
 
 August 27^7*. You appear to have had the great 
 heat in England just the same time that we had it 
 here, and at the very period when the cholera 
 broke out amongst us. That I am thankful to 
 say has almost entirely left, and there are now 
 hardly any cases in the army, and I hope we may 
 consider ourselves safe from a return of this dreadful 
 malady. Poor Captain Morris has been very ill 
 the last week with bilious cholera, and we thought 
 yesterday that he was not to get over it. In the
 
 Letters from the Crimea^ 89 
 
 afternoon a favourable change took place, and if he 
 escapes the consecutive fever, I trust a few days 
 will see him out of danger. Do not believe any 
 reports about the war except what you hear from 
 me the papers are full of lies. The artillery has 
 been embarked during the past week, and to-morrow 
 the main body of the army begins; the 4th Light 
 Dragoons embark on Tuesday, and on the 2nd 
 September the main fleet is intended to be off. I 
 hear the 33rd have lost nearly fifty men in cholera, 
 but no officer. I wish people would not put false 
 reports of our movements into the papers, they 
 must be very disquieting to anxious friends at 
 home. Not a man has yet left Bulgaria. I should so 
 much like to take a peep at you all at home ; but do 
 not think I am homesick. Far from it. I am here on 
 duty, and even when cholera was striking down 
 men on every side of me I never wished to be else- 
 where. I have just seen one of the English officers 
 attached to the French head-quarters. He could not 
 give me St. Arnaud's order to the army, but the 
 purport is that he thanks the army for their good 
 conduct during the prevalance of disease, and tells 
 them that now they are to have the opportunity of 
 showing their devotion in another way : that they 
 are about to attack the Crimea, and that they will 
 there fight by the side of a nation whose forefathers 
 caused themselves to be so much respected by theirs 
 on the field of battle, and of the Turks, who have 
 proved themselves such valiant soldiers lately ; and 
 he promises that in a short time the three standards 
 will float over Sevastopol side by side. All bosh ! 
 He had better have held his tongue till we were
 
 90 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 there. We ought to have gone there in May or 
 June, when the Russians had but 15,000 men in 
 the Crimea; now they have 45,000, perhaps 
 more. Did you see Lord Raglan's order about 
 dress? I do not say it was not wanted, but it 
 was so very ill-worded, that everyone laughed at 
 it, particularly at that part which alluded to shirt 
 collars, as starch is rather scarce in the army just 
 now. We are all beginning to get rather shabby, 
 but we shall be still shabbier in another month. 
 I intend to take as little as I can help with me, just 
 what is necessary for cleanliness. All the native 
 servants are bolting, dire funk has taken possession 
 of them at the thought of real fighting. I am so 
 glad I am not encumbered with one of the beasts. 
 Stockwell is far from well, but Fox has picked up 
 again and is quite fat. The Horse Artillery 
 embark to-morrow, and the 4th Light Dragoons 
 at any moment. The 3rd Infantry Division are 
 embarking this afternoon, as well as the 1st. The 
 "Simla," "Himalaya," "Jason," and "Trent," 
 with six sailing transports in tow, take the Light 
 Cavalry, who embark immediately. The whole are 
 expected to be on board on Saturday, (the rendez- 
 vous at Baltchik,) and sail without delay. I fear 
 that we shall not see the commencement of the 
 business; I am disgusted beyond measure. The 
 " Terrible " has been on the coast of the Crimea and 
 has just returned. She got ashore while chasing a fish- 
 ing boat and nearly shared the fate of the " Tiger." 
 I believe we are only to take two horses each, so I 
 must leave poor little Charley behind, and I think 
 it quite a chance if 1 ever see one of the three
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 91 
 
 deserted ones again. If I do not lose Charley I 
 fully intend that he should return to England with 
 me. I am as hearty as anybody can well be, full 
 of strength and spirits. I shall write whenever I 
 can find an opportunity, and tell you no more lies 
 than I can help. 
 
 September 1st. This is I hope the last letter I 
 shall write from this detestable hole, as since my 
 last letter it has been decided that we go with the 
 first expedition, and accordingly embark either this 
 evening or to-morrow morning in the " Simla" with 
 the 4th Light Dragoons. This will be very pleasant, 
 as there are several in the regiment whom I know 
 and like ; added to which, they are to be Linded the 
 first, so that I shall have an opportunity of seeing 
 the whole of the operations. I am, as you may 
 imagine, in high spirits at the near prospect of 
 service, and, as I have been blessed with such 
 excellent health while here, I start for the really 
 arduous part of the campaign stout and hearty. I 
 hardly know what I have been doing lately. I have 
 been so busy, constantly occupied with one thing or 
 another. Yesterday I rode four horses, and tired 
 three of them. I mounted the first at 6 a.m. and got 
 off the fourth at 10 minutes to 10. I do not mean to 
 say I was all that time on horseback, as I had 
 plenty of time for meals and even a little for rest. 
 I had my hair recut, and I assure you I look 
 charming ; everybody congratulates me on my 
 appearance. We are only to take two horses 
 with us at first, but there is a sort of hope 
 held out that the others may follow. I take 
 Punch and Jemmy, and Stockwell goes with me.
 
 92 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 Fox has most strict injunctions to take great care 
 of the little Arab, and, if he loses both the others, 
 to bring him safely to the Crimea or Scutari or 
 wherever the deserted beasts are sent. I now 
 feel the benefit of having so small a kit. While 
 others are worried to death to know what to do 
 with the heap of goods they own, I have nothing 
 but a small portmanteau, my bed, and my tent, 
 which I cannot put on a led horse. My campaign- 
 ing baggage consists of my saddle-bags and wallets, 
 a waterproof blanket and my valise and cloak, a 
 stout heart, and a sharp appetite, so that I consider 
 myself altogether very well equipped. 
 
 September 3rd, on board Ike "Simla" Here 
 we are once more on board ship, and in a fair way 
 to start for Sevastopol. I had a hard day yesterday, 
 as I was away on duty all the morning ; and as a 
 mess was made of our embarkation, I had to take 
 all our horses to a camp two miles up the country 
 for the night. Having seen them established, I got 
 a pony, rode down to the beach, where I picketed 
 my pony for the night, gave him a feed of corn, 
 and, thanks to the care of good Major McMahon, 
 found a boat waiting for me. I got on board about 
 9, very tired, very dirty, and very hungry. The 
 luxury of my cabin is immense, and 1 actually had 
 one clean sheet on my bed. I have a most com- 
 fortable berth, and intend to luxuriate at my ease 
 for the few days we are in this floating barrack. I 
 am so glad to leave Bulgaria, I never was so glad 
 to leave any place in my life, not even the West 
 Indies, and I hope never to set foot in it again, once 
 we sail. I had a nice task yesterday. I had to start
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 93 
 
 as early as I could, and ride to the camp of the 
 Light Cavalry, seven miles off, there collect all the 
 deserted chargers, baggage animals, servants, &c., 
 of the regiments embarked or embarking, and start 
 them for a depot which has been formed about two 
 miles from the landing, and which is the place to 
 which our chargers were sent last night. I never 
 had such a task. In one regiment I found one 
 sergeant, one man, about half a dozen servants, and 
 seventy animals to collect. In another, things were 
 worse. However, by the help of Colonel Douglas 
 of the llth, I got the heap sorted out, classed, and 
 paraded by 20 minutes past 12, when I put the little 
 Arab into a hand gallop, and in forty minutes I 
 had made my way home again. Poor little fellow, 
 
 I hope I shall see him again ; they have a beautiful 
 camp with plenty of water, and report says they are 
 to join us without delay. The troop officers have 
 only one horse each, even the generals have but two, 
 unless they get leave to take one pony. This is a 
 magnificent ship. We were to have gone in the 
 
 II Jason," but found that she would not even hold 
 the regiment told off to her. I believe the 33rd, 
 are to be one of the first regiments on shore, though 
 very little about our landing has leaked out. I fear 
 the arrangements in the Quartermaster-General's 
 department have been most faulty. General Airey 
 is now appointed to act, and will, I dare say, get 
 things better ordered ; I believe that is his forte. 
 Varna Bay is a perfect forest of masts. There was 
 a horrid accident here on the 2nd. A French 
 steamer ran into a flat boat with Zouaves on board 
 going out to their transport, upset it, and twenty-
 
 94 Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 five of the poor fellows were drowned. They 
 seem fated to experience misfortune in this affair. 
 
 September 3rd. I wrote the last sheet before 
 breakfast this morning 1 , soon after which I got on 
 shore to fetch our horses down for embarkation. I 
 had taken the precaution to picket my pony on the 
 beach last night, where I found him safe, and very 
 useful he has been. The horses were soon brought 
 down, but we did not get on board till 20 minutes 
 past 3, but then, notwithstanding a heavy sea, with- 
 out any accident. The beasts are now luxuriating 
 in a little English hay, which will, I hope, fit them 
 for the rough work of next week ; both are very 
 well, especially Punch. I have had a comfortable, 
 cheerful dinner, and for dessert, your long letter 
 of 16th August. I am happy to say we leave 
 Captain Morris a great deal better. There were 
 two sad deaths in the army this morning Captain 
 Longmore, 8th Hussars, and Colonel Boyle, of the 
 Coldstream Guards, both after they had embarked. 
 The army is, however, generally healthy again, and 
 I hope and believe quite fit for work. I believe the 
 rendezvous is at Kavarna, from whence we start in 
 one vast squadron of several lines for our destination. 
 I shall be very glad when the Heavy Brigade come 
 up, as, though they have suffered a good deal, they 
 have had less sickness than the light regiments, who 
 look rather pasty-faced. 
 
 September 4.th. A beautiful day, and the wind 
 has shifted during the night somewhat in our favour. 
 The good living and soft bed have made me feel 
 quite bilious; I always thought there was something 
 of the wild beast in my nature. Our letters are to
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 95 
 
 leave the ship at 10 o'clock, which looks as if we 
 were off soon. 
 
 September 5th, Baltchik Say. Here we are, 
 having left Varna at 8 o'clock this morning and run 
 up here in a couple of hours. This is a most filthy- 
 looking place, some degrees worse than Varna, inas- 
 much as the shore is a mass of white sandstone 
 almost devoid of verdure ; the town much the 
 same ai Varna as to the description of houses, but 
 much smaller. The scene in the bay is most extra- 
 ordinary, as we are surrounded by almost 300 
 vessels of all sorts and sizes, from the three- 
 deckers of our fleet, to the miserable little brigs in 
 which the French troops are boxed up. How they 
 are ever to get across I cannot make out. When 
 we first anchored we were about 150 yards from 
 the flagship, a formidable looking three-decker, 
 with the "Arethusa," a fifty-gun frigate on the 
 other side of us, and in every direction either a man- 
 of-war, or a huge steamer with troops, or a steam 
 frigate, or despatch boat. We are now getting up 
 steam to go nearer in shore for water, so I conclude 
 we shall not sail to-day. We passed this morning 
 two steamers at anchor, one with the 21st on board 
 direct from England, the other with the 68th from 
 Malta, both seasonable additions to our force. 
 When this letter will go I cannot tell, but shall 
 keep it open, fill it with all the scraps I can collect, 
 and if it reaches you without being finished you 
 will know it has been sent in a hurry. 
 
 September 1th, off Baltchik We are now fairly 
 under weigh for the Crimea, the French having 
 started a little before us, and being now hull down
 
 96 Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 to the eastward. All yesterday we lay at anchor 
 filling up with water, and waiting for orders, and 
 this morning got under weigh at an early hour, to 
 pick up our two hangers-on and form into the 
 general line of sailing. We are in six lines, the 
 " Simla" being the leading ship of the right; next 
 to us come the 4th Division, then the 3rd, 2nd, 1st, 
 and the Light Division on the left. Each steamer 
 tows one or two transports. The troops are in the 
 steamers, and the transports have the artillery and 
 stores. Each division is half a mile distant from 
 the one on its left, and each steamer is to keep 
 half a mile astern of the transport ahead of it. The 
 day is fine, with a good steady breeze, quite favour- 
 able, but there is a little haze, which makes the 
 distant ships rather indistinct. I dare say we shall 
 have a better view when the afternoon clears the 
 atmosphere. We were fortunate enough to get our 
 English mail last night, which was a great piece of 
 good luck. It is very doubtful whether we shall get 
 our letters at all for some time. Lord Lucan is 
 made a lieutenant-general, chiefly because Sir 
 George Cathcart, who held that rank at the Cape, 
 has joined us, and has had the same rank conferred 
 on him here, and it was therefore necessary to give 
 equal rank to the other division generals. We are 
 a very pleasant party on board, and very comfort- 
 able, as there is plenty of cabin accommodation and 
 a good table. We are to land with provisions and 
 forage for three days. I suppose you have heard 
 all about the new uniforms. I believe nothing is 
 quite decided about the heavy dragoons, except that 
 we give up the. sabretashe.
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 97 
 
 September Sth, 'BlacJc Sea. Another beautiful 
 day after a delicious mild summer night. The 
 scene last night after the moon rose was most 
 curious, as the vessels were quite near enough to be 
 very visible. When I turned in, the headmost 
 vessels of the French fleet were just abreast of us 
 a large two -decked screw towing a frigate and 
 three transports leading, and on the other side our 
 fleet in regular lines. I was up soon after sunrise, 
 and a more beautiful sight could hardly be 
 realised : about 150 or 200 vessels were in 
 sight, all in regular order, and flanked (to our 
 left) by a long line of battleships. I believe 
 the French and Turkish fleet are away ahead of us 
 with some of the vessels of our own fleet. We have 
 been steering since 4 o'clock yesterday, for a point 
 forty miles west of Cape Tarkan, but our course 
 has been lately altered by signal, and we have also 
 been ordered to close the ships to each other. As 
 we have only been going about five knots we can- 
 not be more than half-way across. By this time 
 to-morrow the signals will be worth looking for, 
 and I should not be surprised if we see " Russian 
 fleet in sight," for if they are half men they will 
 surely attack our ships while encumbered with this 
 armada of transports. Even now some people 
 declare we are not going to the Crimea but to 
 Odessa. This cannot be, as both Lord Raglan and 
 St. Arnaud have announced that we are going to 
 invade the Crimea. We have been very mucli 
 amused to-day by the pranks of the " Himalaya," 
 which follows us in column, but which we dis- 
 covered at daybreak ahead of us, having sneaked 
 
 H
 
 98 Days of a Soldiers Life. 
 
 up in the night. The signal was soon made, 
 11 Himalaya keep your station," which was obeyed 
 for a time, but about an hour ago she was discovered 
 between our column and the one on the left. The 
 signal was again made, " Himalaya keep your 
 station astern." We conclude that Lord Cardigan is 
 at the bottom of this, as it looks like a piece of his 
 silly vanity. Two o'clock. I have just been on 
 the bridge to look at a magnificent spectacle, the 
 combined English, French, and Turkish advanced 
 fleet, which we are fast coming up to. I counted 
 twenty-six sail ; in another hour we shall be in the 
 midst of them. The wind is now right ahead, which 
 is very favourable for landing, though not for the 
 progress of sailing vessels. The weather continues 
 pleasant, though colder than on shore, that is by 
 day, for at night it is much milder. I hope the 
 north wind, blowing over the sea, will kill the 
 cholera which still hangs about some of the ships. 
 We are all in a bustle to-day, as the 4th are getting 
 up their kits ready for what may happen. I do 
 not put myself out, having ascertained from the 
 captain that we had not completed half our course 
 at 12 o'clock to-day. I know (hat we cannot arrive 
 to-morrow ; added to which my possessions are so 
 few and so compact that I have nothing to do but 
 to stuff my saddle-bags, saddle my horse, and be 
 off. Nobody would ever think that we were going 
 to land in an enemy's country ; the chief subject of 
 care is how our three days' provisions are to be 
 carried, and where more are to be procured when 
 these are exhausted. I never saw people take 
 things so coolly as the whole party do. We had
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 99 
 
 great'fun at dinner yesterday. Some one began talk- 
 ing about prize money, when Captain Portal said, 
 " I'll take a shilling for any prize money we get," 
 on which Major Lowe at once pulled out a shilling, 
 handed it over to him, and clenched the bargain. 
 I shall not dispose of mine so easily, though I 
 don't expect any ; there are too many to share 
 in it. 
 
 September Wi, off Cape Tarkan.l left my 
 letter yesterday to go on deck and see the French 
 and Turkish fleets, astern of which we were then 
 passing. There were twenty-seven large ships 
 under sail, four steam frigates, and eight line-of- 
 battle ships under steam, with our own transport 
 fleet of about seventy .vessels in the midst. We 
 passed close under the stern of a French two-decker 
 and exchanged salutations with a host of officers 
 on her deck. The French transport fleet were all 
 well astern, and filled up the background of the 
 picture, which was one certainly worth seeing, and 
 not easy to be forgotten. This is a wonderful ship 
 for sleep. It came on to rain soon after dinner, and 
 after reading as long as I could see, perhaps till 
 half-past 6, I lay down on my berth, and actually 
 slept till half -past 5 this morning. I was on deck 
 soon after 6, and found that the French transports 
 were quite out of sight ; but as we have been slowing 
 ever since, they are now beginning to come up with 
 us. At about half-past 7 we observed the " Agamem- 
 non. "two steam frigates, and the " Caradoc" (onboard 
 of which Lord Raglan is) detach themselves from 
 the fleet on our left. They crossed just ahead of us, 
 and are now out of sight to the southward, standing 
 
 H 2
 
 ioo Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 towards Sevastopol. We conclude they are gone to 
 look out for squalls in that direction. The signal 
 has just been made, " Prepare to anchor." No land, 
 however, is in sight, though we cannot be very far 
 
 tl 
 
 from it, as a small bird came off to us this morning 
 8 p.m. We are now at anchor, and have been since 
 6 o'clock. The moon has just risen, and shines on 
 such a scene as the Black Sea has never before 
 witnessed. The ships which left us for the south- 
 ward have not yet returned, and we do not at all 
 know what are to be our future movements. Our 
 covering fleet are anchored ahead three three- 
 deckers, five two-deckers, two frigates, and ten 
 steamers. It is a most beautiful sight, and the 
 stars are shining brightly. As all the steamers 
 carry lights ahead and astern we contribute a 
 galaxy of our own. 
 
 September 11th. When I got up at 6 the 
 " Agamemnon " and her companions were just 
 in sight. They came in at half-past 7, and we 
 have since had the order to get under weigh, 
 but without, as yet, the slightest hint as to 
 destination. Reports are in plenty, complimen- 
 tary to neither naval or military chiefs. St. 
 Arnaud is sick, or says he is, for he is so habitually 
 distrusted that nobody believes what he says. 
 There was a small bird like a brown water wag- 
 tail on board last night, nobody molested it, but 
 it is gone this morning. The night before a large 
 bird like a hawk perched on the foreyardarm. 
 You may suppose how hard up we are for excite- 
 ment when I chronicle such small matters. They 
 say our mail is to go off at once. I don't believe it.
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 101 
 
 Our heads are too wary to let people write to 
 England all they think about them. 
 
 September 13^, off Eupatoria. I must send you 
 a half-sheet to give you the last intelligence from 
 this land of delusion. Our movements lately would 
 puzzle even the Times correspondent, and I cannot 
 help thinking what a heap of lies the various papers 
 will present to you. The weather has fairly changed, 
 and I do not think we have much more summer to 
 look forward to. I have taken my winter great- 
 coat into wear, and find it a great comfort. We 
 are now standing into Kalimita Bay, with the 
 signal flying, " Prepare to land," and I fully 
 expect to find myself in the Crimea this evening. 
 Our letters are all brought to a hasty conclusion 
 by the mail being suddenly closed. The letters 
 are to go on board at once. I wish I could give 
 you some more certain intelligence, but I am sure 
 you will like even this scrap written at the last 
 moment. There is no sign of a soldier at this 
 place, nor of any defences. The town appears 
 mixed Russian and Turkish. 
 
 September 14/i, ten miles south of ~Eupatoria. 
 I am going to write a few lines and leave them on 
 board the " Simla," to go when there is an oppor- 
 tunity. We have been here since soon after 8 this 
 morning, having got under weigh at 5 a.m. We 
 are anchored about a mile and a half from the 
 shore, with the French and Turks to the south- 
 ward of us, and only three or four ships between 
 us and the land. The shore for about a mile and a 
 half directly in front of us is f rorn fifty to a hundred 
 feet high, but falls away at either extremity to a
 
 IO2 Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 low sanely beach. The French are landing on one 
 side of this bluff and we on the other. About three 
 miles in shore, are two villages, and about eight 
 miles south of us is a new fort which the Russians 
 have built lately, having made up their minds that 
 we were going to land in that particular place. As 
 you may suppose, we were all up and on the look- 
 out to get the first sight of the enemy, who soon 
 showed himself, in the shape of an officer and 
 orderly, and two Cossacks, who appeared on the 
 top of the bluff, where they remained until we 
 had landed so many men, that it would have been 
 madness to remain much longer. Everyone admired 
 his coolness and the knowing manner in which he 
 put out his two Cossacks on each flank when he 
 wished to take a good look at us. Beyond this, 
 and two Cossacks riding further inland, we have 
 seen nothing to create a suspicion of our being in 
 an enemy's country. We have landed about 
 20,000 men and twelve guns in eight hours. 
 Pretty good work, is it not ? We do not hear of 
 there having been the slightest opposition on shore. 
 As soon as the different brigades were assembled 
 on the beach, they marched up on to the higher 
 ground and were lost to our view. The Russians, 
 from what we hear through two or three prisoners 
 made in the course of the day, are in force near 
 where they expected us to land, and have made an 
 entrenched camp, which I believe we are to storm 
 on our road. Some of the steam frigates went 
 down to the fort and shelled it, but we do not 
 know with what results. I saw the old 33rd 
 landing, but, as a nice mild rain was falling at
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 103 
 
 the time I did not wish myself back again, as, 
 with no tents and ver}~ little firewood, the first 
 night on shore will be rather uncomfortable. We 
 expect to land to-morrow. I am quite ready and 
 have all my small stores packed, except my three 
 pounds of pork, which I declined keeping in my 
 sleeping cabin. It is hardly credible with how 
 little bustle the disembarkation has gone on, 
 although the vessels have anchored most irregu- 
 larly. I fully expect to be woke in the night 
 by some row in the shipping, as a swell is getting 
 up since dark, and I cannot but think the Russians 
 will try and disturb such a mass as we show in our 
 present condition. The people of the country do 
 not seeni much put out by our arrival, as we could 
 see them all day busy getting in their harvest, with 
 which the country near the villages appears to be 
 covered. We are about thirty miles from Sevas- 
 topol, and have three rivers to cross before we get 
 there. At some distance inland are high and very 
 picturesque mountains, near the foot of which Siui- 
 pheropol must be situated. 
 
 September 15th. Such a night of rain and a 
 heavy surf on the beach this morning. About two 
 hours ago we were ordered to Eupatoria, there to 
 disembark the cavalry and artillery, and to march 
 by the beach to join the main army. This has now 
 been countermanded, and we are at the present time 
 standing close in to the beach, as there is some sign 
 of the surf going down. We hear various reports. 
 One is that the Russians are about 30,000 
 strong between us and Sevastopol, and that they 
 have another army on the other side of that place.
 
 IO4 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 It is also said that Paskewitch is in command. Sir 
 George Brown was very nearly taken yesterday by 
 a Cossack, who tried to cut him off as he was 
 reconnoitring. The Light Division are in the 
 village to our front, and the rest on the bluff, where 
 they must have suffered considerably last night. 
 The French have their tents up and are well 
 protected, but our poor fellows are exposed to all 
 weathers, thanks to our faulty arrangements. I do 
 not like to speak ill of authorities, but certainly 
 ours have not impressed the army with any great 
 idea of their efficiency. We expect to land in the 
 course of the afternoon. Lord Raglan objects to. 
 fighting on Sunday, so we shall not move till 
 Monday. We are to land our tents, as plenty of 
 transport has been secured in the country. 
 
 September 18th, Advanced Posts, Jendugan. 
 We landed on Saturday, and slept that night on the 
 beach, and yesterday came on here. This is a village 
 about two and a half miles in advance of the Light 
 Division, and about six or seven miles inland of the 
 bluff off which we lay at anchor. We are encamped 
 on the steppe, with the village on our front and four 
 regiments of light cavalry on our left. The little 
 village has been quite a pretty place, lying on both 
 sides of a gently sloping ravine. There is one capital 
 house in it, occupied by Colonel Lawrence and three 
 companies of Rifles. It is evidently a new house 
 belonging to some rich person, as the garden in 
 front was being laid out in terraces, and the rooms 
 and furniture are good and convenient. There 
 is also a detachment of two companies of French 
 light infantry on the right of the Rifles, who keep
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 105 
 
 up a connection with their own camp, and towards 
 our left rear we have four companies of Rifles 
 under Major Norcott, and one officer and twenty- 
 five men of the llth Hussars. The Eussian army 
 is said to be in our front, and I believe the chief 
 object of our being here, is to look out for any 
 reinforcements which they may endeavour to bring 
 down from the north of the Crimea. One of our 
 patrols exchanged long shots with a party of 
 Cossacks yesterday, but hurting neither party. It 
 cannot be long now before we have at them some- 
 where. Fancy their allowing us to be here four days 
 without molestation, I am sorry to say they are 
 burning the forage in our front. Two poor fellows 
 were in here this morning begging protection from 
 a party of Cossacks who were burning all their 
 corn. The Tartar inhabitants appear to hate the 
 Russians most cordially, and the R/ussians distrust 
 them, as they have taken away all their arms. They 
 would materially assist us if we could supply 
 them. The climate is very pleasant, neither 
 too hot or too cold, but the dew at night 
 is tremendously heavy. I have left my tent on 
 board with my portmanteau and bedding, but I 
 have my bedstead and a waterproof blanket, and 
 Captain Fellowes (who has succeeded Captain Morris) 
 and I have a government tent between us, and I 
 carry my little patrol tent for our two servants. 
 The whole country is steppe, a great grass plain, 
 gradually sloping up towards the hills. Here and 
 there is a ravine where you find water, and here 
 and there a village. As I have only seen this one 
 I cannot yet say what is their general appearance.
 
 106 Days of a Soldiers Life. 
 
 Nearly all the inhabitants have left this village, 
 which was sacked and shamefully misused by the 
 French before we got here. Luckily the Rifles 
 managed to save the best house, or that would have 
 suffered in a like manner. I must say our allies 
 are most ill-conducted ruffians, and plunder in a 
 disgraceful manner. I hope they will make up for 
 it when the fighting comes. I am beginning to 
 get very shabby, and I do not get a clean shirt 
 above once a week. But my health continues excel- 
 lent, and I have no fears but that all will turn out 
 well with me. Stockwell seems quite brisk again 
 since we left Bulgaria. I believe there are not a 
 hundred officers in the whole army who can 
 say as I can, that they never had an hour's 
 sickness there. We lost a great many men 
 coming over, between 150 and 200. Six died 
 on board the " Simla," the 33rd lost eleven, and 
 the other regiments alike, but only one lost as many 
 as the 33rd. The poor horses are so thin and look 
 so weak ; we had only half forage rations on board, 
 and they have suffered from want of food now for 
 two months. I must say our supply department is 
 scandalously managed. As far as I can learn, we 
 have thirty-two miles to march to Sevastopol, a 
 distance which, short as it is, will prove difficult to 
 an army so much weakened by sickness as this has 
 been. We are getting transport in the country, 
 bullock and camel carts. We had one of the latter 
 yesterday, with two fine beasts in it, to bring our 
 tents. The horses generally are very much asto- 
 nished at them, but Punch and Jemmy take them 
 very philosophically. The midges are here in
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 107 
 
 clouds, but they don't bite as sharply as they do in 
 North America. I am so glad I have no revolver, 
 there are continual accidents with them, this very 
 morning one went off in an officer's holster, and he 
 narrowly escaped a wound. I have just been up to 
 a look-out place on the other side of the village, 
 and saw a party of twenty Cossacks about five miles 
 off. They appeared to be moving towards the 
 Russian lines, after doing all the mischief they could 
 by burning forage. As soon as I have had a bit of 
 bread and cheese, I shall go and explore a little 
 within our outposts ; I want to find a place for a 
 good wash if I can. Stock well has just gone off to 
 wash me a shirt, as I feel inclined for a bit of 
 luxury, and we do not move to-day. I believe 
 there are two or three rivers in our front. The 
 water in this village is plentiful, but not over clean. 
 I have had a great misfortune to-day ; that beast 
 Jemmy has broken my only snaffle-bridle to pieces, 
 and I do not know how to get another. 
 
 September 21st, Alma River. I am writing on 
 the field of battle of yesterday, within 200 yards of 
 the spot where 200 of our finest fellows are lying 
 dead. Thank God I am entirely unhurt after two 
 engagements. We left our camp on the morning of 
 the 19 th and marched about twelve miles to a small 
 stream, beyond which we found the enemy showing 
 a force of cavalry. I was left to bring up two 
 regiments, which had been protecting the left flank 
 all day, and as soon as we got up they brought 
 down a battery of eight guns and opened on us, 
 showing about 1,500 cavalry. We answered them 
 with our light artillery, and not only forced them
 
 io8 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 to draw off their battery and prevented their turn- 
 ing- our flank, but with a loss of five wounded and 
 three horses killed, caused a loss to them, of 12 
 killed and 23 wounded. Yesterday the army was 
 formed early in the morning, on the heights to the 
 right of where we passed the night, and at about 
 11 a.m. moved in the usual order across the valley 
 and up the opposite height on to the great plain. 
 The march was conducted with the greatest regu- 
 larity, and frequent halts were made. During one 
 a hare got up and was caught by a rifleman. Soon 
 after 1 we reached the end of the plain. We had 
 for some time been watching the Russian position, 
 which was most formidable, along the whole slope 
 in front. Their battalions were standing in column, 
 covered by entrenched batteries, of which, that to 
 their right of the main road was the largest. The 
 first gun was fired at half-past 1, though for a 
 few minutes before that time occasional rifle balls 
 had been passing over our heads or striking the 
 ground at our feet ; one whizzed close to my head. 
 The cavalry were then in line faced to the east, 
 covering the left flank of the army, and three 
 cannon shot struck among us, and the great battery 
 had evidently got our range. We shifted our position, 
 and continued doing so during the early part of the 
 day, whenever they pitched their balls near enough 
 to make this movement necessary. I was soon after 
 sent alone to the extreme left and front near 
 the village of Tarkanlar to observe two strong 
 regiments which were on the heights opposite. 
 They evidently saw me on the watch, as they sent 
 an officer with an orderly down to the village, and
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 109 
 
 retired behind a hillock, which completely covered 
 them from view. On returning- to report this, I 
 found the cavalry, with the 1st Rifles, moving down 
 to the village, in which the Highland Brigade was 
 concealed in the vineyards. As soon as they had 
 passed through, we also advanced and forded the 
 River Alma, leaving the 4th Division in the hollow. 
 Before crossing the river, I was sent to look for a 
 ford higher up, and on returning I found Colonel 
 Steele telling Lord Lucan that the infantry had the 
 entrenchments. It was then exactly 20 minutes 
 past 3 p.m. As we moved up the hill immediately 
 in rear of the Highlanders we passed a number of 
 wounded and dead men of that brigade. I was 
 again sent on to see what was doing on the left 
 front, where the enemy's cavalry ought to have 
 been, and on coming back to report that they were 
 not in sight, I found the Highlanders just formed 
 on the top of the hill, the left company having run 
 into an entrenched battery of this shape L, and the 
 regiments in line having opened a very heavy fire 
 on the Russians in the valley. The light guns 
 were immediately brought up, and opened 011 their 
 masses ; they stood a few rounds, but soon broke 
 and fled up the opposite height in the greatest 
 confusion. The firing then ceased along the whole 
 line, and I was again sent to the left front to look 
 out. While cantering up to a mound a Cossack officer 
 appeared doing the same on the other side, but 
 turned the moment he saw me and rode off as hard 
 as he could go. As his men were not very far, 
 I thought it prudent not to pursue him, but pulled 
 out my pistol and snapped it at him. Unluckily the
 
 no Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 cap had tumbled off. As the cavalry had moved 
 off towards the right, and down the hill, I had to 
 make a short cut to overtake them, and so passed 
 through the Russian dead in front of the position 
 of the Highlanders. As soon as I reached the 
 cavalry in the valley, I was ordered to go up the 
 valley ahead and give notice of any impediment. 
 I passed numbers of dead and wounded men, most 
 of them killed by musketry more than half a mile 
 from the line of fire. I rode on to the top of the 
 hill, passed many wounded, and as I was then 
 considerably in advance, I waited till the cavalry 
 came up. Our men made a good many pri- 
 soners, but as they were recalled, most of 
 those who were badly wounded were left behind, 
 and the Russians soon after sent Cossacks into the 
 valley to carry off their wounded men. Our men 
 behaved admirably, and did not injure one single 
 man, although they were very obstinate, and refused 
 to lay down their arms till they were pulled out of 
 their hands. One man to whom I gave a drink out 
 of my flask told me in broken German and Russian, 
 that he was a Pole and fighting against his will. I 
 went afterwards to the top of a small mound to the 
 left to reconnoitre. While there two Cossacks rode 
 up to within 250 yards of me, and one of them 
 un slinging his long carbine took a quiet shot at me. 
 I avoided a second by popping over the mound. 
 We remained there till dusk, when the cavalry 
 retired to a camp immediately in the left rear of 
 the great entrenched battery. Soon after dark a 
 man of the 13th Light Dragoons came to our camp 
 and said he heard groans, and on going with him
 
 Letters from the Crimea. i j i 
 
 I found a pile of eighteen dead and wounded 
 Russians, within fifty yards of my lair, but only 
 four wounded ; one was shot through the lungs, 
 another had his chin carried away, and another 
 both legs broken. We made them up beds, gave 
 them water, and the next day had them taken to 
 our hospital. This morning I walked up to the 
 great battery. The ground was covered with dead 
 and wounded. Immediately under the battery lay 
 Captain Wynn and the regimental sergeant-major 
 of the 23rd, the latter with seven balls in him. 
 Lower down other officers, among them a young 
 ensign of the 33rd and five more officers of the 
 23rd, all dead side by side. They lost eight officers 
 killed, among them Sir William Young. The 
 Guards suffered severely, eleven officers wounded 
 in one battalion. We were opposed by every man 
 they could bring into the field, and every one says 
 the position was most formidable. They had 
 enormous guns in position, all of which they 
 carried off but two. We never even got a chance 
 at their cavalry, who did not try to face us. Most 
 of the Russians were shot through the head, our 
 men through the body and legs, as we were advanc- 
 ing up, and they firing down the slope of the hill. 
 I hope we move to-morrow, as this is a filthy place. 
 We expect to force another river to-morrow, after 
 which our work will be easier. The weather is 
 delightful, neither too warm nor too cold, and I am 
 very well, though rather hungry. I hope now we 
 shall get a little more food, as the commissariat is 
 well up. I hear Lord Raglan is well satisfied with 
 the success yesterday, which was most brilliant. I
 
 H2 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 have just been out foraging to the left of our posi- 
 tion. We ought to have forded the river twenty 
 minutes sooner than we did, and a little higher up ; 
 we should then have had the guns on the Russian 
 right, and made prisoners of a whole division, but 
 indecision is fatal with cavalry, and we delayed too 
 long. We should also have been able to punish 
 the body of cavalry who have threatened us 
 through the whole campaign without ever daring to 
 attack, though from 1,500 to 1 800 in number. 
 Jemmy behaved beautifully on the 19th, but 
 Punch made a great fool of himself yesterday. 
 
 JBalaclava, September 2$th. So far in safety, 
 and as well and hearty as ever, but I will go on 
 with a short diary of what I have since been doing. 
 We remained two days on the field of battle, 
 burying the dead, and picking up the wounded, 
 and on the morning of the 23rd we formed on the 
 heights, to which the army had advanced at the 
 close of the action, and marched towards a river 
 called the Katcha. I was again reconnoitring on the 
 left, and had a beautiful view of the country. The 
 Katcha was entirely deserted, and except a dead 
 Russian in a well, we found nothing in the shape 
 of an enemy. The infantry halted here for the 
 night, but the cavalry and guns were ordered on 
 to a village called Duvankoi, on the Belbec River. 
 This we were told was two miles in advance ; we 
 found it five, at the bottom of a tremendous hill 
 and in a close ravine. There it was impossible for 
 cavalry to maintain itself in position, so just at 
 dusk we were again in motion to the heights above, 
 two miles back again. There we lay all night
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 113 
 
 without water, many of the cavalry having- been 
 without it for twenty-four hours previously. We 
 were again under arms early, and marched at 11 
 to join the main army, w r hich we did, near a bridge 
 over the Belbec lower down, and advanced up the 
 heights to a dense oak scrub, where we lay for the 
 night in a filthy spot again without water. I never 
 was so dirty in my life, not having washed or had 
 my boots off for three days, and was very glad to 
 iind myself again in the saddle at 7 the next 
 morning. During the night we had an alarm. 
 The Russians who were on our right front got 
 alarmed, and fired a gun, which put the whole 
 army on the qui vive a great bore when a tired 
 man has but five hours to sleep. The cavalry were 
 sent on a reconnaissance with directions to find a 
 place called McKenzie's Farm, towards which the 
 whole army was to march. We had a very severe 
 march, through ground that no cavalry ought to 
 have entered, and found ourselves at one time 
 close to Inkerman, at the head of Sevastopol 
 Harbour. We then turned more to our left, and 
 after riding for some time the part of the column 
 with which I was, came within a hundred yards of 
 the road on which Lord Raglan and his staff were 
 advancing. He sent for me to give him some 
 information as to what the cavalry were doing. 
 While I was riding behind him we came in sight 
 of the farm, and to our great astonishment found 
 a Russian rearguard, and an immense train of 
 baggage and ammunition, directly in our front. 
 Lord Raglan was immediately put in safety, the 
 guns brought to the front, and I was sent off to 
 
 i
 
 114 Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 the cavalry to bring them up with all speed. I 
 despatched the 17th one way and brought up the 
 Greys another (having missed Lord Lucan), and 
 we immediately pushed on to a height overlooking 
 a great plain in which the small town of Batchi 
 Serai is. There we got the guns in position, and 
 pounded into the retreating mass. I was then 
 sent with a dismounted troop to the left, to skirmish 
 through the wood, and after I had posted them 
 I rode down into the plain to catch Lord Lucan 
 and the staff, whom I saw going down the hill. 
 I took a line of my own, and found myself among 
 enclosures, out of which I should have got with 
 difficulty, had it not been for dear Jemmy, who 
 took me over the hurdles like a bird. As I 
 jumped the last, I found myself directly in front 
 of a line of Russian skirmishers at about 250 
 yards. I don't think they saw me, but I turned 
 and rode quietly up the valley towards our own 
 people. I got a good look at the Russian division 
 to which the baggage had belonged. They showed 
 three large divisions of infantry, two of cavalry, 
 some irregulars, and six guns, with six more, some 
 more cavalry, and some more infantry in and 
 behind the town. As I rode up the valley I passed 
 such a scene of confusion as you never saw 
 carriages, ammunition, and provision carts upset 
 in every direction. One carriage was most com- 
 fortable, the back fitted with drawers like a chest 
 of drawers. Just after I passed three Tartars, 
 who greeted me most affectionately, and the oldest 
 of the party kissed my hand ; one of them gave 
 me an apple, which was most acceptable, as I
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 115 
 
 had hardly tasted water for two days ; I ate 
 it without fear of cholera. On the slope of the 
 hill I overtook our people again, and on the top, 
 found a great quantity of ammunition, officers, 
 carriages, and other baggage. As the army kept 
 crossing up the valley, we destroyed all we could 
 not carry away, and the cavalry and light guns 
 continued the movement which we had begun 
 in the morning, by turning down towards the 
 Black River, followed by the whole army, and 
 on the next day, by the French. We encamped 
 that night on the Black Eiver, which runs into 
 the head of Sevastopol Harbour, and supplies the 
 town with water ; and on the 26th we again 
 moved on to Balaclava, thereby accomplishing 
 the finest manoeuvre of modern days, and com- 
 pletely turning all the main defences of Sevastopol, 
 and gaining a position on the south and weakest 
 side, and a harbour for our shipping. Some guns 
 and infantry were sent to take the fort, which 
 was soon done, and we encamped at the head 
 of the gorge at 3 p.m. for the first time since the 
 campaign began. I sallied off with a piece of 
 soap and a towel and had such a wash, and got 
 such a dinner afterwards, which was almost too 
 good, as except a mouthful out of a man's frying- 
 pan I had not tasted meat for four days, and as I 
 had been always fourteen hours in the saddle I 
 was almost done for want of food. I was disturbed 
 after I had lain down to go and post some pickets, 
 but still managed to get a good sleep. Yesterday 
 I rode down before breakfast to the little town 
 of Balaclava, which is magnificently situated in 
 
 I 2
 
 1 1 6 Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 a narrow gorge with an immense cliff 1,400 
 or 1,500 feet high, and deep water close up 
 to the village. There we found head-quarters, 
 and a good many steamers with the siege train 
 on board. Soon after breakfast we were again 
 on the move, but the main body of the cavalry 
 only advanced a mile or so up the plain, while 
 the infantry, guns, and two regiments of cavalry 
 made a reconnaissance towards Sevastopol. They 
 returned about 5 o'clock, and we pitched our 
 camp in a, capital spot, with plenty of hay, water, 
 vegetables, and fresh air. Here we remain to-day 
 and to-morrow. After the siege guns are landed 
 we make a reconnaissance on a grand scale towards 
 Sevastopol. So far you have had all my move- 
 ments divested of small details, which I reserve 
 till we meet. I have mercifully escaped many 
 dangers ; shot and shell have struck over and 
 round me, and I am still untouched. Sickness has 
 almost decimated the army, and I am in good 
 health. We have been favoured by the most 
 delightful weather, no rain but two or three 
 showers, and I have lain out nearly every night 
 without feeling the worse for it. 1 always sleep 
 on a waterproof, and with my cloak and valise 
 I have a very good bed. I carry all I really want 
 on the horse I ride, and look upon all else as 
 comforts ; those only amount to a pair of saddle- 
 
 / 
 
 bags, a wash-hand basin, and a wooden stretcher to 
 keep me off the ground. I am very comfortably 
 chummed with Captain Fellowes ; we agree 
 capitally, as both sleep well and have good and 
 not too nice appetites. The poor horses will, I
 
 Letters from the* Crimea. 1 1 7 
 
 hope, begin to pick up ; they have been actually 
 starved lately, and were almost done for. My 
 
 work is verv hard, but I love it, and am never 
 
 i/ 
 
 happier than when I hear the bullets singing. 
 
 October \st. The ponies have come up to-day, 
 very thin and wretched, but I am very glad to 
 have Fox again, as Stockwell has been very hard 
 worked. It is said we break ground before Sevasto- 
 pol to-night. I saw Blake the day before yesterday. 
 He had come into town to buy a pair of unmention- 
 ables, as his only pair had been burnt while drying 
 the day before. I am superbly furnished, as I have 
 two cotton and one flannel shirt, and can afford a 
 clean shirt whenever we have water to wash the old 
 one. Yesterday several volleys of musketry were 
 heard in Sevastopol. We suppose that the Poles have 
 been objecting, and the Russians have exercised 
 military justice on them. I have not yet been able 
 to get to the front, so have only had a distant view 
 of Sevastopol. We rather expect they will bring up 
 an army in our rear, in which case the heights 
 between us and the Black River will be our battle- 
 field. We are short of vegetables again, the scanty 
 stock supplied by the gardens near having been 
 soon exhausted. They were a great luxury while 
 they lasted, the grapes were very plentiful, but I 
 cannot say much for their flavour. We hear the 
 Russians are gathering in our rear ; I quite expect 
 an attack, as we are very unprotected, nearly the 
 whole of the army having moved up to the siege. 
 Did I tell you that Blake's horse had five wounds at 
 Alma, while he escaped with getting the sleeve of 
 his coat ripped up.
 
 Ii8 Days of a Soldier's Life* 
 
 October 5th. Writing- on the knee does not 
 improve my scrawl, but I begin early, and have my 
 letter ready in time for the next post. I have 
 never yet been able to get up to the front to sec 
 Sevastopol, as we are three miles from our advanced 
 posts, but I believe we have done nothing yet 
 beyond marking out the site of batteries and 
 dragging up guns and material. The garrison amuse 
 themselves with shelling our position, but as yet 
 have done very little harm. Both yesterday, and 
 the day before, I was sent in hot haste with fifty 
 men to support a picket which we have at the 
 bridge on the Black River, reported to have been 
 attacked by the Russians. On neither occasion was 
 anything to be seen ; but I believe a few Russians 
 had shown themselves, magnified by the surprise of 
 the vedettes, into large bodies of cavalry. The 
 first day I penetrated with a small party into the 
 village of Tchorgana, up the Black River, but found 
 nothing more suspicious than a French officer and a 
 few Spahis buying cattle. The village, like all in 
 this part of the Crimea, is pretty, buried in trees, 
 and a good appearance of comfort about it. Yester- 
 day I actually saw three live Cossacks, who, however, 
 made the greatest haste to be off. We have lovely 
 summer weather, but last night had very heavy 
 rain, and the poor horses look very miserable this 
 morning. I am getting so shabby that I had to buy 
 an old pair of trousers at a sale to mend my own 
 with, and my coat is ready to fall to pieces. Those 
 in office talk of opening fire to-morrow. 
 
 October 1th. My birthday has been ushered in 
 by a skirmish with the Russians, who attempted to
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 119 
 
 surprise us at daybreak this morning, but failed. 
 We were soon under arms, and moved up to the 
 ridge behind our position ; there we found they had 
 retired into the plain, and as they showed two or 
 three masses of cavalry, we got up our guns and 
 gave them a few well-directed shots, which drove 
 them in hot haste down the road to the Black River, 
 and across the bridge. When it appeared tolerably 
 safe, I was sent to the front with seven men. These 
 I left hidden with my horse, took off my cocked 
 hat, and crept forward till I could see into the plain 
 between the Black River Bridge and McKenzie's 
 Farm. There I counted about sixteen squadrons of 
 cavalry, and behind a mound, about a mile and 
 a quarter from the bridge, from 1,200 to 1,800 
 infantry lying perdu. I then crept on till I could 
 see the bridge, which was unoccupied, and returned 
 with my budget of news. I am sorry to say we 
 lost three men out of the patrol which gave us the 
 first alarm, but the officer shot one Cossack, and the 
 artillery emptied a few saddles, but they always 
 try to carry off not only wounded but dead. I 
 wish we could have enticed them a little further ; 
 I should like to have signalised my birthday 
 by giving them a good drubbing. They are 
 apparently the same people whose baggage we 
 took at McKenzie's Farm. Wednesday and Thurs- 
 day's intruders were evidently from the same party 
 who came down on us this morning. I picked up 
 a shako of the 12th Hussars and a sergeant's 
 jacket of the same regiment. Yesterday for the 
 first time I was able to go and see Sevastopol. 
 We got into a walled yard of an unfinished house,
 
 I2O Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 and from thence Lad an excellent view. The 
 number of batteries they have erected is very great, 
 and we could see them working away as busy as 
 bees. The town is of considerable extent, and 
 the public buildings handsome and numerous. I 
 noticed three very handsome churches, one like a 
 Greek temple and another with a copper roof. 
 The dockyard buildings are very large, and the 
 barracks immense. The Forts Constantino (at the 
 entrance of the great harbour) and Nicholas (at the 
 entrance of the harbour which runs up towards 
 where we stood) are most formidable looking affairs. 
 It is a great pity they have had so much time to pre- 
 pare. We are waiting for the French. When we do 
 open, we shall have about 250 pieces of heavy artil- 
 lery in position, and some of them of immense size 
 and range. What a roar there will be ! General 
 Luders has got in lately bringing 9,000 men with 
 him, as we cannot invest it on the north side. Our 
 position extends from the south side of the valley of 
 Inkerman, to Cap Chersonese, the English on their 
 right, the French on their left rear and left. Their 
 position is immensely strong, and I hope something 
 is going to be done to improve ours, as we are 
 completely cut off from the main army, and have 
 only one regiment of Highlanders and six popguns 
 (6-pounders) to support us. The Russians have 
 sunk five of their ships, and disposed the others as 
 floating batteries. I shall go up again as soon as 
 possible, as our present position is a very dull one, 
 and until to-day we have seemed cut out of all the 
 work. I am in hopes we may get something to 
 do, as I have a particular spite against these three
 
 Letters from the Crimea, 121 
 
 hussar regiments which we have been so long 
 watching, and which are so unwilling to face us 
 in the field. I have your letter of 17th September. 
 I can assure you neither General Scarlett or Captain 
 Morris are dead, at least I saw the latter making 
 a very good breakfast a couple of hours ago. I 
 wish you would let Mrs. Cleveland know her young 
 hopeful is very thriving, and looking well, though 
 rather brown and shabby. I made him a handsome 
 present of two clay pipes the other day ; people 
 have been offering half a crown a piece for them. 
 We have now a good supply of stores from a 
 ship, having some brandy, sherry, onions, salt, 
 rice, cocoa, preserved meats, macaroni, arrowroot, 
 sugar, and a few candles. The Russians have not 
 90,000 men ; they had 44,000 at Alma, leaving 
 about 0,000 in Sevastopol. Luders has now 
 brought 9,000, and certainly 5,000 were put hors 
 de combat at Alma. The French are getting re- 
 inforcements, and I believe we are to have more 
 Turks, who will occupy and hold Balaclava, which 
 is a very strong position and easily defended. 
 
 October 10/A. The weather has changed most 
 uncomfortably since I last wrote. It has been 
 blowing a gale of wind and bitterly cold. We 
 have had no more Cossack attacks, but there is a 
 report just come in that one of our pickets is 
 skirmishing on tho road to Baidar, and the inlying- 
 picket is gone out to reinforce it. We have not 
 yet fired a gun against Sevastopol, but have a 
 considerable number in position, without their being 
 discovered by the Russians, and I believe on 
 Thursday we shall open on them with about 160
 
 122 Days of a Soldier's Life* 
 
 heavy pieces. I have just seen Captain George, 
 who brings two bits of news from the front. One 
 is, that Sir George Brown with an aide-de-camp 
 and some other attendant, was riding round his 
 pickets a night or two ago, when he got in front 
 of a picket of the 19th regiment, which imme- 
 diately began firing at him. He took off his 
 cocked hat and shouted to them to cease firing; 
 but the officer fancied he was a Russian, and said 
 to his men, " Look at the fellow; he is waving 
 his men on with his hat." So they continued firing, 
 and he only escaped thanks to the bad shooting 
 of the British soldier. As it was they fired nine- 
 teen shots at him, and put two through his aide- 
 de-camp's coat. The other story was that of an 
 officer and twenty-five men of the Chasseurs 
 d'Afrique. The Cossacks came out the night 
 before last 500 or 600 strong, supported by some 
 infantry, but on being charged full tilt by this 
 small party of French, turned tail and bolted back 
 again into Sevastopol. 
 
 October Ilth. The affair with the picket yester- 
 day ended in nothing, and is being repeated to-day, 
 with what results we do not yet know. The 
 Russians kept up an incessant fire from yesterday 
 afternoon till about 9 this morning, but we hear 
 with no results. Certainly a siege in which one is 
 not taking an active part, is a very dull affair, the 
 more so as books or any means of passing the time 
 are wanting. I saw Mr. Llewellyn yesterday ; lie 
 is leading an uncomfortable life, sometimes attached 
 to one regiment, sometimes to another. He has 
 now received orders to go down to Scutari with
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 123 
 
 sick. We hear the mortality at Scutari among the 
 wounded is fearful ; that horrid Bulgarian summer, 
 completely broke down the constitution of the 
 army ; it was a fearful mistake leaving us in so 
 notoriously unhealthy a locality. A good deal of 
 firing in the night caused by a sergeant of sappers 
 losing his way and alarming a great portion of 
 General Evans's division, who were engaged for 
 about twenty minutes, with phantoms of their own 
 raising. There have also been the usual alarms of 
 Cossacks. I ani happy to say the casualties of the 
 siege are as yet very few, one sergeant, and one 
 man killed, one officer and a few men wounded. 
 The Russians must have wasted nearly 2,000 shot 
 and shell. The weather has changed again, and is 
 quite warm. I bought a pair of woollen socks to 
 sleep in yesterday ; they are just what are served 
 out to our men at one shilling and a halfpenny, but 
 I had to pay four shillings for them. We have a 
 little poultry yard, a turkey, a goose, and three 
 chickens, all to be devoured when a little fatter. 
 
 October loth, Eupatoria. You will be surprised 
 at seeing a letter dated from hence, but I have been 
 rather poorly for the last eight days, and was 
 ordered on board ship for a change. I am on board 
 the " Colombo," belonging to the same owners as 
 the " Simla" and "Himalaya," and yesterday she 
 was ordered to come up here for a day, with the 
 chief agent of transports, and to bring him down 
 again to-night or to-morrow. This just suited my 
 plans, as I was anxious to get thorough change of 
 air, and yet should not have liked to go far or for 
 any length of time. We got under weigh about
 
 124 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 11 o'clock, ran along the very curious coast between 
 Balaclava and Cape Chersonese, where we found the 
 French fleet and transports, at anchor in a snug- 
 harbour called Double Bay. In passing we saw the 
 little town and monastery of St. George, perched 
 on the cliff like a sea-bird's nest, about three miles 
 from Balaclava. We then saw Sevastopol Harbour, 
 arid arrived at just the right moment, as the 
 Russians opened the most tremendous fire I have 
 yet seen on the French and English trenches. As 
 we were only three miles off we commanded a view 
 of all their operations saw the men in the batteries 
 working their guns, and the hailstorm of shot and 
 shell pouring on the trenches. Perhaps the grandest 
 sight of all was the answer, which was perfect 
 silence ; they roared away unanswered. We had a 
 very good look into the harbour, saw several ships 
 I had not seen before, and recognised many of the 
 buildings I had observed when 1 looked at the town 
 from the land side. After we passed the harbour 
 we had another amusing episode on our voyage. 
 Two of our steamers, the "Terrible" and the 
 " Sampson," came out from the fleet and engaged 
 some forts to the north of the harbour. We saw 
 every shot strike, astern, ahead, in the water, short, 
 too high ; so in a couple of hours' firing they only 
 managed to hit the " Sampson," and then the 
 damage done was to an old barrel. After this we 
 stood on to the fleet at the Katcha, received some 
 orders from the admiral, and anchored at Eupatoria, 
 a place chiefly remarkable for sand and dust. Why 
 we are allowed to keep it I cannot make out. I 
 walked up into the market, where there was a good
 
 Letters from the Crimea* 125 
 
 supply of mutton, some poultry, eggs, and n, few 
 vegetables, looked into a mosque, where the faithful 
 were at prayers, and at a Greek church which was 
 deserted and shut up. We saw here the Tartar in 
 full perfection, and a very ugly animal he is. Poor 
 creatures ! they hope we are going to keep the 
 Crimea, and release them from Russian domination, 
 but I fear they will only fall under a harder yoke 
 than before our arrival. I was glad to get on 
 board again, as I felt rather tired with my walk. 
 
 October 18th, H.M.S. Bellerophon. We went 
 back to Balaclava on Monday in the " Colombo," 
 but left again yesterday morning at 4 a.m. and 
 anchored with the fleet at the Katcha River at 
 7 o'clock. After breakfast I felt so much better 
 that I went on board the flagship with the chief 
 officer of transports, who was on board the 
 "Colombo." There I found the fleet were jusc 
 going in to attack Sevastopol (the land batteries, 
 French and English, had opened fire at 6.20 a.m.) : 
 and as I met Lord George Paulet on board, I 
 volunteered, as the navy were very short of officers, 
 to go and act as his aide-de-camp during the action. 
 He accepted my offer, and took me on board with 
 him. Although I cannot ride I could stand on 
 deck, and sit in an arm chair between whiles, and I 
 was determined, if unable to join in the campaign 
 on shore and in my proper place, to be able to say 
 that I was present and actively employed in the 
 attack on Sevastopol. We were taken in tow by 
 the " Cyclops" alongside, and soon after 2 o'clock 
 found ourselves among the ships engaged. The 
 plan was for the headmost ship to anchor, and
 
 126 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 for each ship to pass in succession and anchor 
 ahead. As we were nearly the last, this gave us a 
 late berth to the north and west of Fort Con- 
 stantine. We began firing at 3.30 at the north-west 
 angle of Fort Constantino, but soon had a message 
 from Admiral Lyons, in the "Agamemnon," to 
 shift our berth, and engage the forts to the north 
 of Fort Const antine. We anchored again opposite 
 these and opened a tremendous fire at 20 minutes 
 past 4, which we kept up till 10 minutes past 6, 
 when, it being too dark to do any more good, the 
 ship having been three times on fire and very much 
 knocked about, we were towed out to the old 
 anchorage at the Katcha River, which we reached 
 at 7.48 p.m. It was a sharp business for the last 
 hour and a half, as for nearly an hour we were 
 there by ourselves, firing at land forts we could 
 hardly see, and being hit without knowing whether 
 we gave as good as we got. That last half -hour was 
 certainly rather a long one, but I would not have 
 missed the opportunity for fifty pounds. As we 
 ran into our place, we crossed the line of ships firing 
 ahead of the foremost ship, and I saw a sight I shall 
 never forget 18 or 20 huge two and three 
 deckers vomiting forth fire at the same time. The 
 poor old ship is considerably damaged wheel 
 shot away, main topmast, mizentop sailyard, 
 and fore topsail yard damaged, several great 
 holes in her side, and four killed and fifteen 
 wounded. I had a good many escapes yesterday, 
 as a round shot cut away the rigging within four 
 feet of my head, and two shells exploded just 
 under where I stood, shattered the wheel, and
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 127 
 
 knocked over a midshipman and the quartermaster 
 at the wheel. 
 
 October ~L9th. Here I am back again from the 
 fleet. I was very sorry to quit the " Colombo," 
 but she was ordered to Batoum for Turkish troops, 
 and I did not like to go so far for fear I should 
 miss anything, though I am sure the trip would 
 have done me good. I am much better, but not 
 quite strong enough to stand my lord's work, and 
 unless our position is attacked I shall not go back 
 till I am quite up to all that is required of me. 
 We had a fine view yesterday of Sevastopol. As 
 the setting sun shone full into it Fort Constantine 
 looked like a man with small-pox, but between 
 ourselves the naval attack has done harm rather 
 than good. I am sorry the stupid rumour was got 
 up that Sevastopol was taken on the 17th, as the 
 disappointment at its proving false will be very 
 great. I doubt that the siege is going on very 
 prosperously ; the Lancaster guns are a failure, and 
 on the very first day the French had an explosion 
 in their principal battery, which silenced it, upset 
 fifteen guns, and killed over 100 men. I am going 
 after dinner onboard the " Mauritius " for a couple 
 of nights, which will, I hope, quite set me up. Our 
 camp is also being moved to-day, a lucky escape 
 for me. I was on board the "Agamemnon" yes- 
 terday ; she is much cut up ; mainmast and main- 
 yard badly hit, and twenty-four shot in her hull. 
 There was a little mid named Camilliare, about 
 fifteen or sixteen, on the poop of the " Bellerophon" 
 with me during nearly the whole time we were 
 under fire, from 2.3 till past 6, and he never
 
 128 Days of a Soldier's Life* 
 
 flinched, even when a shell burst over our heads 
 striking the mizen gaff, or when five minutes after 
 a round shot cut away the mizen shrouds within 
 four feet of where we stood. Oh, how they are 
 pounding. I stuffed my ears with cotton on 
 Tuesday, and was not the least deaf, though the 
 noise was tremendous. Only fancy twenty-seven 
 battleships all pounding away together, the forts 
 answering, and the fire on shore besides. 
 
 October 20th. One month since Alma, and Sebas- 
 topol still in the hands of the Russians. I am much 
 better this morning, and have gained greatly in the 
 last two days, so to-morrow I shall try and go back 
 to camp. Tliis is a very fine steamer, but not more 
 comfortable than the " Colombo " ; I am quite sorry 
 I did not go down to Batoum with her, as there 
 appears nothing doing on shore in our direction. 
 The Russians occasionally come down into the 
 valley under our position, and between it and 
 the Black River, our people crown the heights; 
 they look at each other, and each retires to his 
 respective bivouac. We ought to give these 
 fellows a dressing, if only to encourage our men. 
 It is reported to-day that the " Albion " and 
 "Arethusa" are so damaged they will have to 
 go home. What a fine fellow Sir Edmund Lyons 
 is; all wish he had command of the fleet. I 
 honestly believe if that were so, and some more 
 enterprising man the army, we should have had 
 it all over the week after Alma, and that, too, with 
 less loss of life than it will now cost us. The 
 fleet had 46 killed and 276 wounded. 
 
 October 22nd. I went on shore yesterday and
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 129 
 
 up to our camp, but did not find things so pleasant 
 as to tempt me to return till I feel fit for work. 
 We are sadly hindered by the French ; they have 
 had another explosion in their trenches, and 
 have actually been obliged to call upon us for 
 assistance to get their guns in position. We beat 
 them in everything but the mode of carrying 
 the pack, tents, and cooking. In all real matters 
 of discipline, transport by sea (they have better 
 arrangements by land), fighting, the rationing 
 of our men, and what is actually essential, our 
 army is far superior to theirs. The weather is 
 beautiful, but we cannot expect it to last much 
 longer. They are pounding away this morning. 
 Our chief impediments are a place called the White 
 Tower, and a large Redan to the Russian right 
 of it. When these are silenced we shall be able 
 to advance our batteries and pitch into their ships, 
 which are now a great annoyance. 2 p.m. The 
 French are firing well to-day. The Russian loss 
 in the town is estimated at 3,000 killed, while ours 
 does not as yet exceed 50 actually killed in the 
 trenches, though there is a good deal of sickness 
 from over-fatigue. I go on shore for good to- 
 morrow. It appears that the Russians have sent 
 a great part of their force out of Sevastopol ; there 
 are about 10,000 men somewhere near our position. 
 It is thought they have a camp on the north side 
 of the harbour, and as reinforcements are expected 
 we look for a general action about the time this 
 place is stormed. Did I ever tell you that among 
 my other beauties consequent on the campaign 
 I have a most Oriental beard, not having shaved 
 
 K
 
 130 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 since I embarked at Varna ? It is a great comfort, 
 and saves a might of trouble in that rough process, 
 the toilet. I shall be very glad when we are 
 through it all, for it is but filthy work sleeping 
 in your clothes, with only an occasional clean 
 shirt, and a really good wash, never. A campaign 
 is all very well while the excitement lasts, but it is 
 at other times the most monotonous mode of 
 existence. In our present position we lie all day 
 in our tents, without books, waiting for an attack 
 which does not come, unable to go away, and 
 speculating on how much longer this state of things 
 can last. It certainly has been, including the 
 delay at Scutari, and the horrible time at Varna, 
 one of the most trying campaigns on record. As 
 you may imagine, many remarks have been passed 
 on my naval campaign ; some have spoken very 
 kindly about it, other good-natured folks ask with 
 a sneer of what use I could have been on board 
 ship. I am just going on shore, and hope to bring 
 you off some scraps of news. 
 
 October 26&7*. How little I thought on Tuesday 
 what news I should have to tell you. I was wait- 
 ing quietly on board yesterday after breakfast when 
 I heard near firing on shore, and a boat came along- 
 side saying the Russians were close to Balaclava. 
 I went on shore at once, found Stockwell waiting 
 with horses, and got off as quickly as possible, 
 arriving just half an hour before the fiercest 
 cavalry combat of this century. \Ve have no 
 Light Cavalry left, they are actually destroyed. 
 It appears that early in the morning the Russians 
 attacked our line of redoubts, which the Turks gave
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 131 
 
 up without a struggle (the brutes), came on into the 
 plain, and got such a thrashing from the Heavies as 
 they will not easily forget. When I arrived they 
 had retired, but occupied the valley beyond our 
 redoubts in force, holding two of them and the 
 village of Kamara. Soon after they opened fire on 
 us, and just at that time a peremptory order came 
 from Lord Raglan to attack. This was done in 
 obedience, and we were received by artillery in 
 front, and both flanks, and riflemen in the forts. 
 The Heavies, who were now in reserve, came off 
 tolerably well, though they lost a good many, but 
 the Light Cavalry were totally destroyed, and only 
 came out of action by ones and twos. Charteris 
 was killed, the bearer of the order (Captain Nolan) 
 was the first man killed, Lord Lucan slightly 
 wounded in the leg, Lord William Paulet had the 
 cover cut off his cap, McMahon's horse wounded, 
 and such a list of killed and wounded in the five 
 regiments, that when they formed up they only 
 numbered 191 men and horses. There are many 
 missing who it is hoped are not killed, but we know 
 of many killed, and many fearfully wounded. I 
 thought the fleet was hot work enough, but this was 
 such a hail of shot, shell, grape, and canister as 
 beat even Alma. I fear young Clutterbuck is either 
 killed or a prisoner; the 17th have Winter and 
 Thompson killed, Morris, Webb, White, Gordon all 
 badly wounded, and the adjutant missing; the 13th 
 nearly as many. They were the two leading regi- 
 ments. I could have cried as I saw them going 
 into action, as just at that moment, I observed two 
 batteries of Russian horse artillery on heights to 
 
 K 2
 
 132 Days of a Soldier* s Life. 
 
 our left which actually swept the valley, and of 
 which those who ordered this massacre can have 
 seen nothing. I do not think cavalry were ever 
 before, or will be again, exposed to such a raking 
 fire. Poor Charteris was killed instantaneously; 
 one of Lord Cardigan's aides-de-camp wounded, the 
 other missing ; Morris desperately hurt, and in his 
 weak state I fear for him. I thought of you all in 
 the midst of the fire, and wondered whether I could 
 hope to see you again. It was fearful ! Such a 
 hail of missiles of every size. I was not by when 
 Charteris fell, as I was carrying a message for Lord 
 Lucan. Captain Maude, Horse Artillery, badly 
 wounded, and Shakespear commands the troop. 
 The worst is that we were positively beaten on the 
 day's work, and have not retaken the position lost 
 by the Turks. As I left my saddle-bags on board 
 in the hurry I am almost clothesless, and have not 
 even a pair of shoes besides the boots on my feet. 
 Our men behaved in both actions like thorough 
 soldiers, and came out of the terrible ordeal cheer- 
 ing. We moved our camp after dark, and move 
 again to-day ; in fact, I almost doubt our holding 
 Balaclava long ; all turned on our trusting an im- 
 portant position to those beasts of Turks, forget- 
 ting that Kamara was the door to our stronghold, 
 and to Lord Raglan fighting cavalry, when he could 
 not know what they were attacking. 
 
 October 27th. No attack yesterday or this morn- 
 ing. I have just had my clothes off, for the first 
 time since leaving the ship a great comfort. I was 
 out an hour before sunrise this morning observing 
 the Russian army. They are very strong, not much
 
 JLetters from the Crimea. 133 
 
 less than 25,000 men up the valley between 
 Kamara and the Black River. I saw six or seven 
 great masses of cavalry, seventeen or eighteen 
 battalions of infantry, a number in the forts which 
 they took from the Turks, and cavalry, artillery, 
 and infantry on the hills this side of the Black 
 River. I was sent up to Lord Raglan the moment 
 I came in (half-past 8), hardly being allowed time 
 to drink a cup of cocoa on horseback. However, 
 Lord Raglan, after hearing my report, in the 
 kindest manner pressed a good breakfast on me, 
 even asking if fresh tea had been brought to me. I 
 found myself a sort of lion there, as not having 
 been killed on Wednesday, as they saw it all from 
 the heights, and never expected to see any of us 
 again. The return of killed, wounded, and missing 
 is most fearful. In the Light Brigade are 10 
 officers killed and 10 wounded ; 135 men killed, 
 135 wounded, and 370 horses; this does not include 
 the Heavy Brigade or Staff. The Greys lost 47 
 killed and wounded. I saw 30 struck down in the 
 valley, without their even meeting the enemy, as 
 they were in reserve. There was a most brilliant 
 affair yesterday with Sir De Lacy Evans's division, 
 who drove back the Russians with immense 
 slaughter, only losing 12 or 15 killed, and about 40 
 or 50 wounded. Poor Connolly behaved like a hero, 
 and was shot through the lungs. Oh, those brutes 
 of Turks ! if it had not been for their cowardice we 
 should never have been reduced to our fatal charge 
 on Wednesday. 
 
 October 29th, before Sevastopol. Scene, a barren 
 plain covered with stones and thistles, camps
 
 134 Days of a Soldiers Life. 
 
 scattered over its whole extent, a tent which is 
 occupied by a very cold old dog, thinking of home 
 and a pair of warm gloves, foreground the sea, 
 behind which Sevastopol is indicated by continual 
 heavy firing, though only the smoke is visible, a 
 black sky, north-east wind, and cold rain ; general 
 characteristics, the reverse of cheerful. Notwith- 
 standing all which, I am anything but cheerless, for 
 if I am living like a dog in a canvas kennel, have 
 we not great cause for thankfulness that I am not 
 like poor Charteris lying in a bloody grave in an 
 enemy's country ? I do most fervently hope I may 
 never again see such a slaughter ; 35 officers killed, 
 wounded, and missing, 369 men, and 541 horses, 
 out of one battery of Horse Artillery and our twenty 
 weak squadrons. The first affair, which I did not 
 see, was very brilliant. A large body of Russian 
 cavalry, encouraged by the easy way their infantry 
 had driven the Turks from the line of redoubts, 
 came over the hill into our valley in two lines, and 
 were received at the bottom by the Greys, 6th 
 Dragoons, and 4th Dragoon Guards, assisted slightly 
 by the 5th Dragoon Guards, and not at all by the 
 Royal Dragoons, so that actually only eight squadrons 
 were engaged. Five minutes sufficed for them, when 
 they broke and fled in the greatest confusion, leaving 
 a considerable number dead on the field, and taking 
 with them marks of English prowess, which they 
 will not easily forget, in the shape of a host of 
 wounded men and officers. General Scarlett led 
 most bravely, and sabred like a common soldier, 
 cutting down a Russian lancer who was in the act 
 of piercing a soldier of the Enniskillens. When the
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 135 
 
 Greys and one squadron of the Enniskillens first 
 charged, they were completely surrounded and 
 even overlapped by the Russian line, but the other 
 squadron of Enniskillens and the 4th Dragoon 
 Guards by a skilful manoeuvre, brought up their 
 shoulders, and fell on the enemy's flank, rolling up 
 their line into one confused mass. Very few of our 
 men were killed, though a good many, twenty -five 
 or thirty were wounded, as the Russians were so 
 thick that they could hardly use their weapons, 
 and were single-handed, no match in skill, 
 weight, or courage for our sturdy fellows. 
 This affair, had it been followed by a 
 more prudent attempt to recover the guns taken 
 from the Turks, would have made the 25th October 
 for ever famous in the history of cavalry, as an 
 instance of what pluck can do, against numbers and 
 vantage ground, as our people actually charged up- 
 hill. Unfortunately, some little time afterwards 
 an order was sent to Lord Lucan which led to the 
 sad loss which we experienced, and was brought by 
 an officer personally hostile to him, and received 
 without the discretion fitting in an officer of high 
 rank. Captain Nolan brought the order to advance 
 rapidly, and endeavour to retake guns from the 
 Russians. Lord Lucan, instead of taking the order, 
 and exercising his own judgment as to how he 
 carried it out, asked Captain Nolan what he was to 
 attack, and was answered by his pointing to the 
 Russians drawn up across the valley, with the 
 words : " There, my lord, is your enemy, there are 
 the guns." Lord Lucan immediately ordered the 
 Light Cavalry to attack down the valley, a distance
 
 136 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 of a mile and a half, and as it proved into a terrain 
 which was completely swept by the Russian 
 artillery. As soon as we came within range, they 
 opened on us from a line of guns formed right 
 across the valley, from some more guns very 
 well placed on their left, but which were partially 
 occupied by the fire of our artillery, and on our 
 left by a line of guns planted on the ridge 
 of hills near the Black River. Before they opened 
 fire I saw these guns or rather saw the horses 
 pulled out my glass, and in a moment saw 
 what they were, and how completely they swept 
 the whole length of our advance. I would 
 not live over that moment for a kingdom. My 
 only consolation was seeing two squadrons of 
 Chasseur d'Afrique stealing on them up the hill, 
 and after they had pounded us for about ten 
 minutes they did succeed in dislodging them, but 
 were themselves repulsed with some loss by a 
 body of Russian infantry which was in support. I 
 thought the fire on the 17th was pretty heavy, but 
 it was a joke to this, which certainly for eight or 
 ten minutes exceeded my liveliest conception. I 
 hope I shall not soon again get such a pelting. 
 Luckily a great many of their shells burst too high, 
 and though one or two burst within twenty yards 
 of me, neither I nor Jemmy were hit. By the 
 time I got with the head of the Heavy Brigade to 
 the end of the valley, the Light Brigade, who, headed 
 by Lord Cardigan, had charged the guns in front 
 at full speed, were returning as best they could, 
 from a field where they had left more than 213 
 of their numbers, and where they could do no
 
 .Letters from the Crimea. 137 
 
 possible good. They had ridden over the guns, 
 sabred the gunners, and shot the horses, but were 
 immediately attacked in front and flank, by such 
 masses of cavalry, and received with such a fire 
 of rifles from a fort and bushes on the right, that 
 the only thing left was for each man to get out of 
 the fray as he best could. Lord Lucan accordingly 
 sounded the " recall," covered their retreat with 
 the Heavy Brigade, and they ultimately formed to 
 the number of 191 men and horses, besides officers, 
 a little in the rear of the ground from which they 
 started. Two divisions of infantry now came up, 
 but nothing more was done. Had they supported 
 the attack, it would probably have ended as disas- 
 trously to the enemy as it did to us. The front 
 fire with which the Light Cavalry were received was 
 tremendous, and the cause of our great loss in 
 horses. The first man hit was Captain Nolan, 
 Avho, led away by some mad desire of distinction, 
 instead of returning to General Airey, joined the 
 charge, and was killed at once by a cannon shot. 
 I saw one shot knock over seven or eight men and 
 horses of the Greys, and I saw a shell burst in the 
 squadron interval of the 4th Dragoon Guards with- 
 out hitting anybody. It was really a miracle that 
 any of us who were at all in the front escaped 
 unhurt ; but so it is under fire. I was very thank- 
 ful when it was over, for though I believe I am 
 not less brave than most of us, it was a great relief 
 to find myself unhurt at the end of such a day. 
 I believe the two charges of the 25th have con- 
 vinced the Russians that we are devils devils in 
 red they call us and they have now found out
 
 138 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 that there are also devils in blue amongst us. The 
 remark of the French on the Light Cavalry charge 
 was : " C'est magnifique, mais ce n'est pas la 
 guerre." 
 
 November 2nd. So cold, such frost; if I don't 
 get two blankets I have applied for, I shall wake 
 some day and find myself an icicle. Nothing can 
 be duller than our present life, and to make it 
 duller the Light Cavalry are going two miles away 
 from us. We dine at 5, and go to bed at 7 to 
 keep ourselves warm going to bed being putting 
 on some more clothes and lying down. We have 
 ascertained the Russians have fifty-six prisoners 
 taken on the 25th, seventeen of whom are un- 
 wounded ; two of them are officers. Don't believe 
 any bosh you hear about Lord Cardigan. He 
 showed no head, and beyond riding with his 
 brigade, no greater pluck than others. Old Scarlett 
 is worth two of him. 
 
 November ^th. It is a miserable day, has been 
 very wet, is very cold, I have no books, have read 
 all the papers twice over, it is so slippery that I 
 can't ride, so I turn to my old resource, and begin 
 a letter to you. Don't think I am grumbling, far 
 from it ; my heart never fails me, I am only making 
 a jokeoutof my catalogue of "Miseriesof hum an life." 
 There is one comfort in our present camp, we sleep 
 peaceably at night, which we never did in front of 
 Balaclava. Last night was perfect luxury, as I have 
 now two blankets, so was as warm as a toast. I am 
 also capitally supplied with food, and really live as 
 well as I could wish. We have even a box of biscuits 
 and another of figs. We have plenty of cocoa, some
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 139 
 
 butter, marmalade, potatoes, onions, rice, and we 
 have even managed a plum pudding ; besides which 
 the captain of the " Colombo" constantly sends out 
 bread. I only want some warm clothes and some 
 books. 
 
 November 6th. I shall never again want to be 
 reminded of the 5th of November. We fought a 
 most furious battle yesterday, which lasted from 
 6.30 a.m. till 2 p.m., and was in its way quite as 
 tough, and much more serious an affair than Alma. 
 Our loss is great, and there are many superior 
 officers among the killed. Generals Cathcart, 
 Strangways, and Goldie killed, Sir George Brown, 
 Generals Buller, Adams, Pennefather, Bentinck, 
 and Torrens wounded, 96 officers wounded, 
 25 killed, and 1,650 rank and file wounded, 
 the killed not yet exactly known; 4,000 dead 
 Eussians strew the ground, and the French acknow- 
 ledge to 1,000 killed and wounded. A terrible day, 
 and such a one as we cannot afford to see often, 
 as our numbers are now fearfully reduced. It 
 appears they received a reinforcement of 12,000 
 men from Odessa, and attacked our extreme right, 
 where we had (although our weak point) made no 
 preparations for receiving them. They were em- 
 ployed all night in bringing up guns, with which 
 they pounded us terribly all day, until silenced by 
 our artillery, and driven off the field. The attack 
 first commenced by their firing on our pickets, 
 which were driven in, along the whole right by 
 immense masses of men, and for some time they, 
 supported by the 2nd Division and the Guards, 
 bore the whole brunt of the attack, till our artillery
 
 140 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 came up, and at 8.30 the French came into action. 
 At the same time they made a feigned attack on our 
 position, and treated us to a fire of shot and shell, 
 which, however, did no harm, and after getting 
 about forty rounds from a five-gun battery we have, 
 manned by Turks, they drew off, and never 
 molested us again during the day. About 9 o'clock 
 Lord Lucan sent me to the right to see what the 
 Light Cavalry were doing ; they were just moving 
 up to the right of the action, to support an advance 
 of the Chasseurs d'Afrique, and while doing so, 
 were exposed to the fire up a lateral valley, from 
 one of the Russian ships at the upper end of the 
 harbour. During this time poor Cleveland was 
 struck by a piece of shell, two or three men and 
 several horses were killed, and four or five men 
 wounded. Having done all I had to do, I was 
 very glad to get out of the way again, and luckily 
 escaped untouched. The firing at this time was 
 tremendous. Later in the day, when all was quiet 
 in our position, Lord Lucan sent me off again, and 
 I arrived on the field while the Russians were in 
 full retreat, and rode for a quarter of a mile down 
 the slope up which they advanced from the valley 
 of Inkerman. When I tell you I could scarcely 
 ride without treading on the dead, you may fancy 
 the slaughter. It is said they had 60,000 men 
 and 80 guns in the action and in reserve, com- 
 manded by Gortshakoff, while Menchikoff was in 
 the town. They must have lost 20,000 killed, 
 wounded, prisoners, and fugitives ; while I am in 
 hopes that the number of our wounded I gave you 
 before includes the killed. I afterwards rode over
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 141 
 
 part of the field and to the place where the Guards 
 fought so hard. The dead were lying there actually 
 in heaps, one on top of the other, for as an officer 
 of the Guards said to me, " We fought at 12 paces." 
 It was a dreadful sight, but I do not think worse 
 than the great battery at Alma. Poor Cleveland 
 died at 5 o'clock yesterday morning; I fear it will 
 be a dreadful blow to his mother. The Coldstreams 
 had 9 officers killed, and the Guards have only 
 1,100 left out of three battalions. In fact we can't 
 stand many such victories, and if we do not soon 
 get into the town there will be no English army 
 left. 
 
 November 8th. No further attack. I hear the 
 number of killed and wounded is even greater than 
 I at first supposed. This battle has crippled the 
 army terribly, as there are over 130 officers and 
 2,000 men killed or wounded. There is, however, 
 no doubt that the Russians lost one way or the 
 other 20,000 men. The Grand Duke Michael was 
 either present or not far off, and must have received 
 a good impression of what we could do, as we had 
 never more than 8,000 men and the French 6,000. 
 I suppose we shall be attacked again soon, but we 
 are now better prepared to give them a hotter 
 reception than they had on Sunday. 
 
 November IQth. I was interrupted here to go 
 and find out something my lord wanted to know 
 from the Chasseurs d'Afrique. Had a pleasant 
 ride and a long chat with one of the officers. 
 Have you seen a letter in the Times of October 
 21st akout the Horse Artillery? It is a lie from 
 beginning to end. So far from Capt. Maude being
 
 142 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 ahead of the cavalry at Alma, it was his horrid 
 gun upsetting in the river that delayed them 
 from being up with the Highlanders, which I was, 
 having been sent on to reconnoitre. We are going 
 to move the Heavy Cavalry again to a place where 
 we shall have more shelter, and as there does not 
 seem much likelihood of an end of the siege, we 
 are to try and make some huts as a protection for 
 ourselves and horses. I am expecting a great 
 hooded cloak from Greece, which will help to 
 cover my rags by day, and keep me warm by 
 night. We have had such cold rain again. It is 
 bad enough for us, but how miserable for the 
 infantry in the trenches. I hear Lord George 
 Paget is going home to sell out, sick of the whole 
 business. 
 
 November \\tli. Such a night again a most 
 furious gale of wind, followed by very heavy 
 rain. I wish you could see our camp, such a mass 
 of mud and filth. I am now at 2 p.m. neither 
 washed or dressed, as we had no water beyond 
 enough to make our breakfasts, and it has 
 been too bad to fetch any. We go to bed 
 between 7 and 8, as it is too cold to sit up without 
 a fire, and the blankets are very comfortable. If 
 one had even books it would not be so bad, but 
 the prospect of a winter under these circumstances 
 is not pleasant to think of. Never mind, it will all 
 come right in the end ; and if Colonel Ainslie had 
 not thrown me over, I should not care a pin for 
 anything. As it is I keep up my spirits and make 
 the best I can of it all. It is so cold that I think 
 I shall go to bed again.
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 143 
 
 November l.oth. Such a day yesterday, as, if 
 often repeated, must force . us to storm this 
 abominable place or break up the siege and fly 
 to winter quarters. It began to blow very early 
 in the morning with furious rain, and at 7 o'clock 
 blew as. hard as I ever saw it blow in my life. 
 Our tents soon began to come down, and by the 
 time the gale had reached its height every tent in 
 the encampment, and nearly every one in sight, 
 was down. The wind was so violent that it was 
 impossible to stand, and all one could do was to 
 huddle up in a cloak, turn your back to the blast, 
 and sit among the ruins of your wordly goods. 
 This lasted till the middle of the day, when the 
 gale lulled a little. Lord Lucan sent me over 
 to Lord Raglan's to ask what we were to do with 
 the sick, and I was never more thankful for shelter 
 in my life, than when I found myself sitting in a 
 hovel, which General Airey used as an office, and 
 quite rejoiced at the business I had to do, detaining 
 me there an hour and a half. He gave me a cup 
 of hot coffee and two glasses of sherry, wbich 
 warmed me up, as no fire could be lighted in our 
 camp, and whatever we had eatable was so covered 
 over with the ruins of the tent that we could get at 
 nothing. While I was sitting at General Aireys' it 
 came on to snow, and when I started the ground 
 was covered with slush. I got back to my tent 
 about 2.30, soon after which the gale broke ; and 
 though it still blew furiously, we managed by dint 
 of great exertion to get up our tent again just 
 before dark, and to secure it, so as to obtain 
 some shelter for the night. But what a scene
 
 144 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 inside ; everything covered with mud, our food 
 full of filth, and everything wet. We managed 
 to get a mouthful of biscuit and cheese and 
 some rum ; water was not to be had ; found a 
 candle, rolled ourselves up in our damp clothes, 
 and lay down to wait through the long hours of 
 darkness. I never in my life passed such a twenty- 
 four hours. Our tent stood, though I thought 
 twenty times it was down again, and to-day is 
 fine and dry. We have had everything out, 
 cleaned up the mess, drying all that is damp, 
 and a pot of hot coffee at breakfast put some new 
 life in us. The tent is newly pegged down and 
 weighted with stones, and I hope we shall get 
 a decent night's rest after all our fatigue. The 
 wrecks are fearful ; I hear of twenty, and I believe 
 that there is no exaggeration. The " Retribu- 
 tion " had to throw her guns overboard, and has 
 lost her rudder. We have lost many lives ; one 
 ship with sick went down with all hands. We 
 have lost twenty days' supply of hay, rice, 
 biscuits, and rum, and all the winter clothing, 
 700 tons, that had come out for the army. 
 This is most serious, and if we have a repeti- 
 tion of yesterday's gale, or one of longer duration, 
 I do not see how we are to hold out here. Three 
 men of the Heavies died of cold and exposure ; and 
 the French have lost many, who crawled under 
 walls, and large stones for shelter, and there died. 
 Even I, who through cholera and slaughter and 
 every past difficulty never doubted, begin now 
 to think whether we have not undertaken what 
 is beyond our powers. If Lord Raglan had only
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 145 
 
 advanced after the Alrna, we had the cavalry, 
 eighteen guns, two whole divisions and a brigade 
 of infantry, beside what the French could give. 
 Had we been bold then, the beaten Russians could 
 never have kept us out of Sevastopol ; had we been 
 bold when we fell in with MenchikofFs rearguard at 
 McKenzie's Farm, he would have had no numbers 
 for a fresh army; had we gone boldly at Sevastopol 
 the day after we arrived here, we should have lost 
 no more than we have since done, by sickness or 
 the actions of October 25th and November 5th. 
 But our commanders are too old, and they throw 
 the whole weight of the campaign on the bulldog 
 courage of our men. I have just heard that three 
 men of the Light Cavalry died of exposure last 
 night. It is very depressing, and I am going for 
 a walk to drive away the blue devils. 
 
 November 17 th. I can now give you a list of the 
 ships lost in the storm at Balaclava : The " Prince," 
 steamer with warm clothing, money saved and six 
 hands saved; the " Resolute," powder all lost; 
 "Rip van Winkle," sick, all lost; " Kenil worth," 
 all saved; " Wild Wave," one saved; "Progress," 
 one saved; "Wanderer," stores, all lost; "Poltonia," 
 biscuit, hands saved; "El Malta," rum, all lost; 
 "Mary Ann," unknown, besides seven more trans- 
 ports, were disabled. The weather has much 
 improved, and to-day is a very pleasant winter's 
 day. Not a shot firing to-day ; I fancy both sides 
 are short of powder. As well as we can judge the 
 Russians are preparing for an attack on Balaclava. 
 A Polish doctor, a deserter, has come in and 
 says the Russians lost over 20,000 men on the 
 
 L
 
 146 Days of a Soldiers Life. 
 
 5th November. They have not yet finished burying 
 their dead and bringing in their wounded. We 
 found to day sixty-eight fresh dead in one heap, 
 all E/ussians. I assure you when I rode over the 
 field, it was quite wonderful to see the disproportion 
 of killed, between our people and the Russians ; for 
 one dead Englishman or Frenchman, there were at 
 least a dozen dead Russians. This comes partly of 
 their fighting in column, partly from the Minie 
 rifle, which is a terrible weapon, and kills. We 
 have just made a prize of a box of Yankee soda 
 biscuits ; they are capital, and remind me of the 
 time when we used to munch them together. At 
 present we live capitally, and I assure you our 
 camp kettle of soup at 5 p.m. is not to be despised. 
 We also got yesterday six bottles of sherry, ditto of 
 brandy and of cherry brandy ; so that by the time 
 we have dug out our winter burrows, we shall have 
 something besides ration rum. We hear the Russians 
 are very short of grub, and are living one upon 
 three. Pleasant, in this cold weather, when even 
 our noble ration is no more than enough. I have to- 
 day had such a nice letter from Lord George Paulet, 
 enclosing an official certificate of my services on the 
 17th October, and giving a list of the damage done 
 to the " Bellerophon " on that day. I hope I shall 
 get the naval medal ; I mean to have a hard try for 
 it. He really has been most kind to me. I have two 
 pieces of the shell which burst under my feet, and 
 a splinter of the " Bellerophon," and another of the 
 " Agamemnon," for you. I have also a Russian 
 grape-shot for Mrs. Hill, which did not kill an 
 Englishman. I wish some more of the family
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 147 
 
 would write to me now and then. You are the best 
 of correspondents, but you can never write enough 
 for me ; I do so enjoy a budget of home news. I 
 hope Jemmy will outlive the cold and starvation. 
 1 have ridden him three times in action, and he has 
 never flinched, even when shells burst under his 
 very nose ; and they really are trying to anybody, 
 in fact I don't know a more disagreeble visitor. 
 
 November 1.9th. I have been to church, I have 
 put on a clean shirt, I have had two letters from 
 you, cheery and with good news, so to-day is 
 altogether a bright day in my calendar. Your 
 two letters were charming ; the first a most 
 amusing budget, the second raising hopes of my 
 coming home soon, and with credit. I think all 
 will turn out right, and I have full confidence in 
 your management. Such a day again torrents of 
 rain, but luckily no wind. I am glad people at 
 home think so well of Sir E. Lyons ; he is indeed 
 a noble fellow, and deserving of it all. He, Lord 
 George Paulet, and Davies of the " Sanspareil," 
 if properly supported, would have had Port 
 Constantine down on the 17th, and I, as an eye- 
 witness, can vouch for it. What a good story that 
 is of the Corporation dinner. I have roared over 
 it. You cannot think how one enjoys a home joke 
 here. I shan't forget Count Poelzig ; if he comes 
 here we'll hang him. I am afraid I cannot send 
 Henry any beasts from the Crimea, as our zoology 
 is confined to fleas and spiders. The French are 
 firing pretty steadily again to-day. I have heard 
 what is to be our plan of operations. When some 
 more heavy guns and mortars arrive from Malta 
 
 L2
 
 148 Days of a Soldiers Life. 
 
 we are to bombard the town and defences for two 
 or three days, and then assault. We expect an 
 attack on our left (on the French position), and I 
 hope we may get an opportunity of cutting in with 
 the cavalry. One more good thrashing would 
 materially assist the assault, as the Russians are 
 terribly disheartened, and say they will not face 
 the English if they can help it. They have not 
 felt the French as they have us, as we have hitherto 
 had most of the very hard fighting. I am sorry to 
 say poor Webb of the 17th Lancers died of his 
 wounds, as also one of the 5th ; the other wounded 
 officers are all doing well, especially Morris. They 
 sent out a doctor to conduct an inquiry into the 
 statements in the Times about the wounded at 
 Scutari. The poor man was drowned in the 
 "Prince." How wretched the poor horses look; 
 so bedraggled and woebegone. I think Jacko has 
 rather the best of it, there being a considerable 
 difference between a stable and plenty at Redland 
 and short commons in the open air of a Crimean 
 winter. I got some bread this morning from a 
 French soldier. They bake regularly. It is very 
 good ; but they like our biscuit for a change, and we 
 the bread on the same principle. Don't believe 
 any lies about our provisions ; we are capitally fed 
 at present, except when the roads get very bad ; 
 even then we get a fair ration, and what we have 
 is all very good. It rains harder than ever and 
 looks as black as thunder. I hope some more 
 papers may turn up in the course of the day. 
 
 'November 22nd. We had a pretty little affair 
 on the night of the 20th. A party of the Rifles
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 149 
 
 took an advanced post from the Russians (from 
 whence they had been in the habit of annoying us 
 with riflemen) and held it against a superior force, 
 inflicting great loss on the enemy, with the loss to 
 us of 1 officer and 11 men killed and 17 wounded. 
 The officer killed had only that day been proposed 
 as Lord W. Paulet's aide-de-camp. I went up 
 yesterday to the look-out behind the French lines, 
 and there found Canrobert and a host of officers 
 conie up to look at some rocket practice, which was 
 a decided failure ; but I had a very good view of 
 parts of the town from a place new to me. They 
 have sunk another ship, so as to entirely close the 
 mouth of the harbour. In one of the papers we 
 have by the last mail there is a very honest 
 account of Alma by Menschikoff. We'll give 
 him something more to write about in a week or 
 two. The weather is very cold again since yester- 
 day morning, but I do not feel it at all at night. 
 I now go to bed like any other Christian, barring 
 sheets. In fact I have very little to complain of 
 beyond the ennui of our present situation and the 
 bad weather, which are, after all, ills shared by 
 thousands, most of whom are not so well off as I 
 am. There was a sharpish business about the centre 
 of the position last evening. It did not last long, 
 and the weather has made all communication with 
 other portions of the camp quite impracticable to- 
 day. There is an actual river running past our 
 tent ; if it were not for the trench we should be 
 afloat. That is a horrid plan of Alma in the 
 Illustrated of the 28th by Major Hopkins, K.H. 
 \Yho he is I don't know, but he certainly was
 
 1 50 Days of a Soldier 1 s Life. 
 
 not there. It is so thoroughly and entirely incorrect 
 that I really could not point out where it fails ; 
 nothing is right, not even the general plan of the 
 ground. We have such a pretty little plot hatching, 
 if the egg does not addle. The Zouave commandant 
 has offered, if he is supported by the English cavalry, 
 to creep round by the heights of Balaclava to the 
 rear of the Russian position, which we attacked 
 with the cavalry in the afternoon of October 25th, 
 and attack their camp at dawn, while we make a 
 sweep at the guns, supposed to be about twenty-four 
 in number. I fear the want of enterprise in our 
 chiefs will let it fall to the ground, but it is a 
 pretty plan, and one I should delight to assist in. 
 I believe when I go Captain Pellowes will put up 
 with the new Adjutant-General, Major Shute, 6th 
 Dragoons. The latest period to which I purpose 
 staying is the end of December, so you may begin 
 to expect me soon after the middle of January. 
 It is so dark I can hardly see to write, though 
 only half-past 3 o'clock, and I must put my 
 letter in some waterproof place. I wish I 
 had BushelFs potting-house or the mushroom 
 bed to pass the night in. Oh, that I were a 
 duck ! 
 
 November 26th. We had such a gale last night, 
 but it appears to have cleared off the bad weather, 
 for the sun is now out, and we are busy getting 
 our wet clothes dry. I have been this morning by 
 appointment to head- quarters. Nothing could bo 
 more civil than Colonel Steele or more kind than 
 Lord Raglan. He asked about my promotion, and 
 hoped that if both the Colonel and Major were
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 151 
 
 nibbling, I might bo fortunate enough to hook them 
 both. He has offered me a post, which will put me 
 on the general staff of the army, and says that if 
 I get my majority, and the duties of the new post 
 make it advisable that I should stay for two or 
 three months, he can manage to keep me without 
 difficulty. It is the superintendence of the Turkish 
 army attached to us, and in the provisioning, &c., 
 of which great abuses have prevailed. It was 
 offered to me in such a manner that I could not but 
 at once accept, and now I have only to settle the 
 matter with Lord Lucan. I am to have a house in 
 Balaclava, and am not to be required to fight with 
 the beasts ; on such occasions I may join the 
 Commander-in-Chief's staff. The thing is in every 
 way honourable and responsible, and I shall hope to 
 be successful. Of course you will have done what 
 you judged best about my majority, which will be 
 most acceptable. Nothing would give me so much 
 pleasure as to return home, but a sense of duty tells 
 me that I must not hesitate at work when offered. 
 Colonel Steele read me a letter while in his office, 
 which showed how fearfully the wretched creatures 
 are cheated ; I am sure they will fight better if 
 properly fed and taken care of. Woebetide the 
 robbers if I catch them. I am to have an 
 interpreter, and the same pay as at present. If 
 all goes right about the majority, I shall be home 
 in March. I suppose, before you take me into 
 respectable society, you will want me to cut off my 
 beard, which has been such a comfort. The whole 
 army is bearded, and mostly unwashed and un- 
 combed, for water is a very scarce article.
 
 152 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 November Zlth. Yesterday was so fine, that I 
 went down to Balaclava and dined on board the 
 " Colombo," and arranged to stay on board for a few 
 days till niy affairs are settled. It was very 
 luxurious to be in a clean spot again. I rode home 
 soon after 8, through Sloughs of Despond and all 
 sorts of abominations, and thought I was lucky to 
 get home at all. There is such a fog just come in, 
 quite like those at St. John ; we cannot even see the 
 cavalry lines 100 yards from us. There is an artist 
 .on board the " Colombo," sent out by Colnaghi to 
 take sketches of the incidents of the campaign. I 
 shall subscribe if I like those I see. 
 
 On board the " Colombo" Here I am in my old 
 berth for a day or two till my fate is decided. 
 There are great rumours afloat. The French talk 
 of a storm on the 2nd December, the day of 
 Austerlitz. With us there is a report that we are to 
 be attacked on the 29th. My own idea is that it is 
 all bosh. I have just been into my cabin to fetch 
 my writing case; there are a pair of clean sheets 
 which quite make my mouth water. Only think of 
 sheets, and clean ones too. I have not had a really 
 clean shirt for nine days till to-day. The mud in 
 Balaclava is literally knee deep. The 9th Foot, 
 1,000 French, and 2,000 Turks landed to-day. It 
 must come to a head soon. 
 
 " Colombo" November 29th. I passed a most 
 comfortable day on board yesterday, and find that 
 two nights in a dry bed have done me a world of 
 good. I had a capital walk yesterday up to the 
 ruined Genoese castles which figure so con- 
 spicuously in all views of Balaclava. The scenery
 
 Letters from the Crimea. 153 
 
 was very fine and wild. From the top we looked 
 down on the debris of the wrecks of the great gale, 
 where heaps of splinters and a few floating spars 
 are all that now remain of so many fine ships. I 
 have heard nothing of my future destiny, as 
 Stockwell did not come down yesterday. To-day 
 is filthy. The "Colombo " will probably go to sea at 
 once, and I am therefore rather doubtful where I 
 shall hide my head to-night. There is something 
 rather pleasant in such an excitement. Great 
 reinforcements are pouring in daily, English, 
 French, and useless Turks. The day is so bad that 
 I do not think the "Colombo " can go to sea, which 
 ensures me another comfortable night. Perhaps to- 
 morrow I may know what I am to do. 
 
 December 1st. The Turkish appointment has 
 fallen through, and taking into consideration the 
 probability of my promotion I have made up my 
 mind to come home as soon as I can sell all my 
 small effects, horses, except Jemmy (whom I will 
 bring home if possible), and have received my 
 letters by the next mail. I do not expect to get 
 away from Constantinople much before the middle 
 of December. I am not sorry that things have 
 turned out as they have, for I was feeling the 
 effects of sleeping constantly in wet clothes in a 
 wet tent. It is again a fearful day. The "Colombo" 
 went to sea yesterday, so I am again in my old 
 tent with Captain Fellowes. I shall be very glad 
 to find myself well under weigh. I sold one Arab 
 yesterday for about a third of what I gave for him, 
 and expect to lose as much or more on all I have 
 to dispose o. I want very much to go down to
 
 154 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 Balaclava, but as I have no change of clothes I do 
 not want to get hopelessly wet through. Pray 
 leave no step untaken to secure the majority by 
 the end of this year. I shall stay a few days in 
 Constantinople to collect my clothes (if I can), and 
 will write from thence more definitely. I will try 
 and collect a few things, and if we put in to 
 Gibraltar shall be able to get some of the em- 
 broidered leather cushions. 
 
 Jura steamer, 3rd December. Safe on board 
 with servants and Jemmy, and the anchor coming 
 up fast. I am, however, quite put out of my calcu- 
 lations, as the " Jura," before returning to England, 
 is to go down to Corfu and fetch up the 34th Regi- 
 ment ; so I shall have to disembark Jemmy at 
 Constantinople and wait there till she returns after 
 landing them in the Crimea, so I can hardly hope 
 to get away till about the 15th. I confess I am 
 sorry not to stay till Sevastopol has fallen, but I 
 cannot risk my promotion, and the cavalry can do 
 nothing more this year. It is a good day to make 
 a start (Sunday). Stockwell seems delighted to get 
 away. I do hope I shall succeed in getting poor 
 Jemmy safe to England ; he has a capital box on 
 board, and seems very comfortable, munching hay, 
 to which he has long been a stranger. The sick- 
 ness among the newly arrived troops is awful, quite 
 as bad as we had it at Varna. 
 
 8th January., 1855, off Liverpool. We have run 
 home so fast from Smyrna that I had no oppor- 
 tunity of writing anywhere, as we have beaten all 
 the mails. We have had the most lovely weather, 
 and I have never been the least sick. Only on two
 
 Letters from the Crimea, 155 
 
 days bad we anything like a breeze of wind. Poor 
 Jemmy died off Malta, winding up my Crimean 
 campaign, as it began, with loss and disappointment. 
 Never mind, home makes up for all. My present 
 anxiety is to bring in safety a most hideous 
 earthenware jug, which cost eightpence in Con- 
 stantinople, and a world of nervous trembling 
 whenever it came on to blow or roll.
 
 156 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 On obtaining his majority on the 8th December, 
 1854, he returned to England and served with his 
 regiment ; was promoted lieutenant- colonel 9th 
 November, 1855. In the spring of 1856 he was 
 again placed on the Staff as Assistant Quarter- 
 master-general at the Curragh Camp, under Lord 
 Seatoii. In 1858 Lieut.-Colonel Walker was 
 transferred to the 2nd Dragoon Guards (Queen's 
 Bays) then serving in [India. In 1859 he was 
 appointed to the command of a field force at Secore 
 in Oude, near which place he defeated the rebels on 
 the 27th April, 1859, and was afterwards in com- 
 mand of a column ; which accompanied Sir Hope 
 Grant to the Nepaul Frontier, including the action 
 of the Jerwah Pass (Medal). Unfortunately all 
 letters referring to the Indian Campaign are 
 missing. There are reasons for supposing that 
 these letters had been lent by Sir J3eauchamp 
 Walker to someone icho has omitted to return 
 them. Anyone knowing anything of them is 
 earnestly requested to communicate with the pub- 
 lishers. In May, 1860, on the outbreak of the 
 Chinese war, Colonel Walker was appointed Assis- 
 tant Quartermaster-general of cavalry to the expedi- 
 tion under Sir Hope Grant, being present at the 
 actions of the 12th August, 18th and 21st September, 
 and in the advance on Pekin (C.B. Medal with two 
 clasps). The China letters commence with the dis- 
 embarkation of the troops at Pihtang. [Ed.]
 
 LETTERS FROM CHINA, 1860. 
 
 July 14^7?, Talien Bay. Since the departure of 
 the mail we have had a change of weather, some 
 rain and half a gale of wind, which has reduced the 
 temperature to about the summer heat of England, 
 though the sun being more powerful we are tanned 
 to a good mahogany colour. The cavalry and nine 
 artillery guns were turned out yesterday on the 
 beach for the inspection of Lord Elgin, General de 
 Montauban. and our own General. Owing to some 
 blunder of the senior officer on this side, we were 
 kept waiting three hours in the very hottest part of 
 the day, and yet nobody was a bit the worse, so fine 
 is the climate. It was a very pretty sight ; on the 
 right, three Armstrong guns, then the 1st Dragoon 
 Guards in full dress, three squadrons of the 1st 
 Sikh Cavalry, and two of Fane's Horse, with six 
 guns on the left. The great people were delighted, 
 and profuse in their praise of the high condition of 
 the horses, which are now as fit to go to work as if 
 they had never been on board ship. Lord Elgin is 
 a stout, florid, hearty-looking man, very conversable, 
 and pleasant in his manner. General de Montauban, 
 a very ugly old Frenchman, but ho rides well, and 
 looks like a soldier; his son and aide-de-camp,
 
 158 Days of a Soldier's Life, 
 
 one of the mildest-looking muffs I have seen for a 
 long time. After they had inspected the cavalry 
 we had some native exercises with lance and sword 
 by the native cavalry. They then rode to the out- 
 posts, lunched, and took themselves off again ; the 
 only news being that we shall probably leave about 
 the 25th, the English to attack the north, and the 
 French the south fort, at the Peiho. 
 
 ~\.6th July. A furious storm of rain and wind 
 burst on us last night ; none of our tents were blown 
 down, but many elsewhere. As my tent leaked 
 like a sieve, I put up an umbrella and composed 
 myself to sleep again. It was a regular cyclone, 
 and blew nearly all round the compass. We hear 
 that no troops are to be left here, and that it is 
 quite determined the campaign shall be pushed to a 
 speedy termination on account of the great expense. 
 I had a good ride into the plain yesterday, and 
 picked a pretty pink, which I enclose. There is 
 little to add to my last letter about the country, 
 except that I think it is the finest climate I ever 
 lived in ; never really oppressively hot, and the 
 nights much cooler than in summer in England. I 
 have no doubt it is hotter farther from the sea. 
 
 Yltli July. We had a taste yesterday of how 
 hot it can be here when there is no breeze, but I 
 found it by no means so hot as in the same season 
 in the Mediterranean. The more I luxuriate in the 
 freedom of this climate, so much the more do I look 
 with horror on a further sojourn in India. We 
 had another rain storm last night, but without 
 wind. The crops have all made a great start since 
 these showers, and look very flourishing. The only
 
 Letters from China. 159 
 
 crop which does not look healthy is the wheat, 
 which is poor and thin. Since the rain we have 
 more insects, particularly a vociferous cicalis. I 
 have not been able to secure a specimen, but am on 
 the look-out for one. There appears to be little or 
 no animal life in the peninsula. I do not even see 
 signs of rats. Birds are also very scarce, though I 
 yesterday heard a skylark singing most sweetly. 
 
 19th July. A soaking day, which is always dis- 
 agreeable in tents, with a limited supply of changes 
 of clothing. The last three days have been very 
 warm, though not so much so as to prevent my 
 riding about all day long. I do not think the heat 
 is so great as it was at Varna. The only noticeable 
 peculiarity of the climate is the sea fog, which 
 comes up very thickly at times, and is generally 
 followed by a fall of rain. The only flowers I can 
 find in the native gardens are hollyhocks, of which 
 there are several varieties, all common. There are 
 no seeds to be found at this season. The only fruit 
 we have had, has been a dish of small apricots, 
 which, however dangerous uncooked, proved very 
 good stewed at dinner last night. Lord Elgin, the 
 General, and Admiral Hope have all gone over to 
 Chefoo, as the French are again giving us trouble, 
 and I understand wish the plan of operations to be 
 again changed to meet their views. I am daily 
 more and more averse to these allied operations. 
 The 2nd Division of Infantry begins to re-embark 
 to-morrow, and I expect that we shall do the same 
 about Monday, the 23rd. I shall be quite ready to 
 go on board again, and don't care how soon we get 
 to work and finish the whole business.
 
 160 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 July 20th. Weather clearer, and a fine breeze, 
 which helps to dry our wet goods and chattels. No 
 news yet, but the General has returned from Chefoo. 
 The supplies are coming in very fast from the 
 neighbouring country. On one day there were 
 eighty-seven head of cattle brought to the commis- 
 sariat at this place. We get plenty of vegetables, 
 and very fine cucumbers. The crops are looking 
 beautiful since the rain, and one can almost see 
 them sprouting. As far as possible they have been 
 carefully respected, and 1 understand that com- 
 pensation is to be given for all damage done by 
 our camps. 
 
 22nd July. The order for embarkation is out. 
 The army embarks to-morrow and the following 
 days, and we sail for the Peiho on the 26th. The 
 French meet us at a rendezvous about twenty miles 
 from land. The orders for disembarkation will 
 probably not be issued till we arrive on the other 
 side, but I hear that both French and English land 
 together and attack the north side. This change 
 has been, made to suit the French, and will, I 
 think, prove a mistake ; we shall see. I do not 
 anticipate much fighting after the forts are taken, 
 though we may have to thrash them in the open 
 before Tiensin. The weather has become much 
 \varmer, but it is still moderate, as long as we are 
 not obliged to enter our vile tents. Luckily, we 
 have a small Indian tent for mess tent, and we 
 always dine in the open air when the sun sets. I 
 shall often look back to our pretty little camp here, 
 though I am delighted at the prospect of getting 
 on. I look on every move as a step towards home,
 
 Letters from China. 161 
 
 the one idea which has never left my mind since I 
 came to India. 
 
 Off Loo Thie Shan, July 2Qth, I860. My hasty 
 note written after the completion of the embarkation 
 will have told my adventures up to that time. I 
 slept like a top after my hard work and exposure 
 to the sun, but a day's rest yesterday has made me 
 as well as ever. We got under weigh at daylight 
 this morning, and were towed by a gunboat clear 
 of the bay, where we were left to our fate, and our 
 convoy went back to lay hold of some other ship. 
 The day is perfect a bright sun, a sea of sapphire, 
 and a cool breeze and I can conceive no prettier 
 sight than our fleet of over 100 ships, all under 
 sail, standing along the promontory and working 
 into their positions. We are to sail in lines of 
 divisions, much as when we crossed from Varna to 
 the Crimea, but the absence of a few laggards has 
 kept us till the present time in the picturesque 
 confusion of covering the sea in every direction. 
 A very large French war steamer is running up to 
 us from Chefoo, I conclude the avant garde of their 
 expeditionary force. It is the perfection of yacht- 
 ing, with a purpose in it, which adds much to the 
 interest. The last ship with 1st Dragoon Guards, 
 made her appearance last night, and has fallen into 
 place amongst us ; had it not been for the delays of 
 the Erench, they would have been too late. We 
 saw this morning such a pretty bay, just inside a 
 small island which is marked on the charts as 
 " The Cap." There was a good large village 
 on the beach, with a large extent of culti- 
 vated land sloping back from the sea, and more 
 
 M
 
 1 62 Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 wood than I have seen in any other part of the 
 country. 
 
 27lh July. A very light breeze all night, and 
 not much to-day. The Admiral's fine plan of sailing 
 in lines appears to have completely broken down 
 as far as I can see. We are all sailing in most 
 admired confusion, the ships which ought to lead 
 in the line, being generally speaking out of sight 
 astern. The Admiral persists in arranging every- 
 thing himself, down to the smallest detail, which 
 generally results in nobody exactly understanding 
 what lie wants. The French have run pretty well out 
 of sight, and after keeping us waiting nearly two 
 precious months, will probably boast that they were 
 first at the rendezvous. We are supposed to be about 
 eighty miles from our destination, which at our 
 present rate of progress we shall not reach till to- 
 morrow evening. As a sight nothing can be prettier. 
 There were eighty-six vessels in sight yesterday 
 evening, all under sail, the sky as bright and the sea 
 as blue as in the dear old Mediterranean. I am quite 
 ready for a start, as I packed everything as soon as 
 I came on board, and have nothing to do but fill up 
 my saddle-bags, put on my boots, and get to work. 
 In my present ship a troop of the Sikh horse are 
 embarked ; I was very much amused yesterday by 
 one of the native officers, who came to us where we 
 were sitting on deck after dinner, and pointing to 
 the compass, asked if we would be so good as to 
 tell him where Pekin was. He was quite satisfied 
 when the west was pointed out, and went away 
 perfectly happy. They are all at work on deck, 
 cleaning their arms and saddlery, and I have no
 
 Letters from China. 163 
 
 doubt talking over anticipated plunder, which is 
 their chief idea. The} 7 " are handsome and pic- 
 turesque looking, not greatly addicted to cleanli- 
 ness. I am told that the Afghans make a point of 
 never washing while they are absent from their 
 own country, and judging from the Afghan camel- 
 drivers I saw in India I can quite believe the 
 story. 
 
 28th July, Gulf of Pecldli. At anchor since 
 11 o'clock. A fine breeze sprang up at night, 
 and when I woke this morning we were bowling 
 along, with the French fleet at anchor within sight, 
 and a fleet of our own ships around us on every 
 side. They are now nearly all at anchor, as yet 
 without an accident of any kind. "We have been 
 very fortunate in our weather hitherto, and I hope 
 it may continue so for the landing. We are about 
 twenty miles from the mouth of the Peiho,of which 
 we can see nothing. 
 
 30/i July. The game is beginning to be played 
 out. The 1st Division of Infantry, a number of 
 ships of war, and a portion of the French were off 
 at daylight this morning, and are to land to- 
 morrow at a town some little distance up the 
 Pihtang river and occupy a position. We land 
 next, and then the rest of the combined forces. 
 We hear that the forts at the Peiho are now 
 completed and very well finished, but that no 
 great opposition is to be expected at the Pihtang. 
 I conclude as soon as we are established on shore 
 we shall move down to the Peiho. There is said 
 to be an army of 53,000 men between the forts and 
 Tiensin, but I cannot quite understand how such 
 
 M 2
 
 1 64 Days of a '.^Soldier's Life. 
 
 accurate information has been obtained, and, as 
 there is no hurry about the mail, I prefer giving 
 you facts to surmises. I was on board Sir Hope 
 Grant's ship yesterday. The General looks well, 
 and, like everybody else, more cheerful with the 
 prospect of something to do, as a reward, for these 
 long months of preparation and delay. We had 
 quite a strong breeze yesterday, quite as much as 
 was pleasant for boating, and at night there 
 was a sharp fall of rain. The sky looks like 
 more. 
 
 30th July, 10 a.m. "We have just received the 
 order to get under weigh, and stand down to the 
 place of landing. We can hear the Russians or 
 Americans, saluting our Admiral off the Peiho, 
 the sound coming from the north-west. The 
 gunboats have just made their appearance, having 
 been left at Odin Bay to tow up a fleet of store- 
 junks. The Sikhs on board evidently think we 
 are going to land at once and march on Pekin 
 this afternoon, as they are bristling with arms, 
 and their eyes greedy with the hope of plunder. 
 I can't say that I am disturbing myself before 
 the time. I have nearly everything packed, and 
 feel all the old love of adventure and readiness for 
 whatever may turn up. I dare say the country may 
 turn out better than we expect. As for Talien Bay, 
 it is the healthiest place I ever was in. There are 
 a few cases of fever about, always to be traced to 
 some gross imprudence. I have gone back to my 
 old habit of drinking nothing but cold tea as long 
 as the sun is up, and of putting on flannel clothes 
 at night. Up to this time my health is as good as
 
 Letters from China. 165 
 
 it ever was, and I trust hopefully in the good 
 Providence which watches over us all to enable 
 me to do my work as heretofore. We are now 
 running into our new berth, under the roar of 
 salutes between the French, the Bussians, and 
 Americans. We found four ships of war of the 
 former, and two of the latter, anchored here 
 lookers-on, I presume. Land is in sight, hardly 
 to be distinguished from the water, and presenting 
 no particular ideas beyond mud and mirage. We 
 shall know more about it before the end of 
 the week, with which sage remark I end this 
 sheet. 
 
 2nd August. I had expected by to-day to have 
 been able to record the taking of the Pihtang Fort 
 and the success of our first landing. It was at first 
 intended that the 2nd Division of Infantry, with a 
 large proportion of the French, should land on the 
 31st ; but the weather was bad, and there was a 
 heavy sea running, which caused the move to be 
 postponed. Yesterday at about 9 o'clock the fleet 
 of gunboats, towing-boats crammed with English 
 and French soldiers, began to muster round the 
 Admiral, and soon after 12 they all steamed off 
 towards the shore. We watched them anxiously, 
 till just as we expected to see them open fire they 
 came to an anchor; and there they have been ever 
 since, about five miles off, so that we can see all 
 their masts. Up to the present time I have not 
 been able to learn the cause of the failure, as there 
 has been no communication to the part of the fleet 
 where I am lying. 
 
 3rd August. I am happy to say there has been
 
 1 66 Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 no failure. The troops landed on the evening of the 
 1st without mishap of any kind, and the forts at 
 the Pihtang were occupied early yesterday morning 
 without opposition. The army is now about four 
 miles advanced on the causeway which leads to 
 Tiensin, and there has been a little fighting, as the 
 Chinese show about 7,000 cavalry, who come down 
 and fire gingalls at our field artillery. We have 
 been sent for, and land to-morrow morning, so that 
 
 I am to-day in all the agonies of packing my field 
 kit. We hear the firing on shore distinctly, not 
 heavy, but again now and then. I look on the 
 fate of the Peiho Forts, and of the Chinese army as 
 already decided ; they ought never to have allowed 
 us to land. The weather has been much against us, 
 very high winds and much sea, but it looks better 
 now. There was a furious squall last night between 
 
 II and 12, almost a small hurricane. I have seldom 
 seen lisrhtnin^ so continuous. 
 
 O O 
 
 Pilitang, *ltli August. I landed at this place on 
 Sunday. I had been in a state of wretched pre- 
 paration since Friday morning, but the cavalry 
 disembarkation was so muddled by the Admiral, 
 that I believe I only got on shore by chance after 
 all. It was a furiously wet morning, and when 
 I landed in the rain I found half the brigade 
 either on shore or coming on shore, nobody to 
 give definite orders, and all in confusion. The 
 Brigadier did not get on shore till after me, by 
 which time I had got into a house, and had 
 deposited my small kit in safety. We are in part 
 of a Chinese house, the best in the town, but the 
 best rooms had been appropriated before our
 
 Letters from China. 167 
 
 arrival, and we are very indifferently lodged. 
 Still anything is better than a tent under this 
 sun. The town is not so bad as I expected, but 
 the smells exceed the most vivid European imagina- 
 tion. Cologne at its worst is sweet to the varied 
 odours of Pihtang. I don't quite know what to call 
 the place ; it isn't land, nor yet quite water. I think 
 it must have been made after all the rest of the 
 world was finished. The tide appears to come in 
 everywhere, and when it goes out leaves a sort of 
 pudding, which is as far as I can learn the sort of 
 country we have to advance over. There are some 
 tolerable houses, and I hear two or three fine 
 joss-houses, but my movements hitherto have been 
 very much narrowed by hard work. The houses 
 are really very comfortable if it were not for the 
 fleas and the smells, and very well furnished, with 
 plenty of tables, chairs, benches, basin-stands, and 
 shelves. The smells exceed the wildest imagination. 
 In the first place, most houses contain a dead body 
 in some stage of decomposition, and the food is 
 chiefly fish, highly putrefied, or something in a 
 state of fermentation. Furthermore, the Chinese 
 appear to have a fancy for keeping old filth of any 
 description, the general result being that one's nose 
 is in a perpetual state of curl. The bed-places are 
 all built stages, with mats over them and stoves 
 under them, which argues for considerable winter 
 cold. Besides furniture, there are all sorts of 
 ingenious nick-nacks in the houses, room-paper 
 ceilings, plenty of pretty china bowls, cups, plates, 
 saucers, and some things like an egg-cup stuck on 
 the back of a saucer, which my servant sagely
 
 1 68 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 remarks, will do beautifully for cigar ashes. All 
 their domestic arrangements appear to be neat, and 
 everything is clean except as I before mentioned ; 
 but I have come to the conclusion that the Chinese 
 have no noses, and as they cannot see stinks do not 
 care for them. I believe the whole army will be 
 landed to-day, and that to-morrow or Thursday we 
 advance to attack the entrenched camp which bars 
 our road to the Peiho. I had no good view of the 
 forts coming in, as they were five miles off at the 
 nearest, and I have no doubt you will see more in 
 the Illustrated than I can tell you. No letters yet, 
 though the mail has been in since the 5th, which is 
 very provoking. I have been to Admiral Hope to- 
 day to try and expedite matters. I must hear 
 before we start. 
 
 8th August. The orders are out. We advance 
 on the 10th at 3 A.M., and I hope the mail will take 
 home news of complete success. The letters are 
 to go off to-morrow, so that you must learn the 
 result from the Times. I think if we have a 
 tough fight on that day that we shall have no 
 great trouble with the forts. I have been to-day 
 in this fort, and a more miserable hole I never saw. 
 You will probably see some ludicrous accounts of 
 the landing on the 1st, but I believe the reality 
 was still more diverting. The mud was middle 
 deep, and I believe some people went through it 
 with a sword in one hand and their nether 
 garments in the other. There has been some 
 Chinese visitor to-day to Lord Elgin, but nothing 
 has leaked out. We can't make peace now. Our 
 modicum of water has just arrived ; about as much
 
 Letters from China. 169 
 
 as one man uses for his morning tub is the share 
 of twenty-four individuals. I hope we shall find 
 more when we get out into the country ; we can't 
 have less than there is here. 
 
 9th August. No change since yesterday. A 
 reconnaissance was sent out this morning, and 
 reports somewhat favourably of the state of the 
 ground, but it has just come on to rain, and if 
 it continues will materially alter matters. A 
 week of fine weather would probably enable us 
 to conclude the war; a week of wet might make 
 a year's difference to us. 
 
 10^ August. No fight to-day. The move was 
 countermanded yesterday after I had sent off my 
 letters. Report says that the French are not 
 ready; whether true or not I cannot say. At any 
 rate we could not have moved to-day. It poured 
 all yesterday, and our only exit is in such a 
 state, as would render the movements of cavalry 
 and artillery next to an impossibility. Further- 
 more the ground over which we have to act will 
 be next to impassable. I cannot describe the town. 
 The filth is knee deep, and as there is not a street 
 more than a few feet wide you may suppose the 
 throng there is. Soldiers only one small degree 
 more bedraggled than their officers, sailors who 
 look as if they had not slept for a week, Chinese 
 coolies, fatigue and working parties, and French, 
 far dirtier and more disreputable-looking than even 
 ourselves, form our moving population. You may 
 imagine the state of the place when I tell you that 
 I have been doing my morning's work in a flannel 
 shirt and a pair of short bathing drawers, with my
 
 170 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 legs bare, and a pair of old india-rubber shoes on 
 my feet. It appears that thanks to the delays of 
 our allies we have deferred our operations till the 
 rainy season. June and July are the months in 
 which we ought to have done the work. 
 
 \\tli August. Wet nearly all yesterday and half 
 the night, but there is a better look about the 
 weather to-day. Yesterday the heat was most 
 oppressive, as there was no air ; indeed, I have 
 seldom felt it so much. We had a visit in the 
 afternoon from the correspondent of the Times. 
 He has some fine stories which he seems to believe. 
 One that 500 of the inhabitants committed suicide 
 when the town was sacked by the French and 
 Chinese coolies ; I say from seventy to eighty from 
 all I have heard. I must say that our men have been 
 very orderly, but our allies become a greater hin- 
 drance and nuisance every day. I have been out 
 this morning along a new road, which has been 
 made so as to get the cavalry to the gate of the 
 town, and think it is feasible. We hear hopeful 
 accounts of the country about five miles off, and 
 hope to find firm ground, forage, and water. The 
 rain of the day before yesterday gave our poor 
 horses the first good drink they have had since we 
 landed. I have just ridden out by our new road 
 and returned through the town. The stenches beat 
 anything conceivable. The army advances early 
 to-morrow, and it is high time we do, as in three 
 days we should have sickness. We have about 
 25,000 people in the town, besides about 6,000 
 animals in and about it. You can imagine the 
 results. So indescribably nasty a place I never
 
 Letters from China. 171 
 
 was in, nor do I suppose you ever saw so dirty a 
 lot of dogs as we all are. My skin is clean ; but a 
 four-days' shirt, breeches of a week, and a pair of 
 greased boots would horrify a Hyde Park soldier. 
 I honestly confess I don't like dirt, and I do like 
 fresh air. I shall say farewell to Pihtang with 
 immense pleasure. 
 
 August 14^/z, Camp near Sinlio. I have only 
 to-day been able to continue my letter. We 
 marched very early on the 12th, glad to get out of 
 that filthy Pilitang. The day nearly commenced 
 with a disaster. A staff officer who fancied he knew 
 the road, led us into a very bad swamp, where the 
 greater part of the 1st Dragoon Guards were 
 bogged, and only extricated with very great 
 difficulty. I was one of the first engulfed, and 
 thought my horse was lost, but after lying for 
 five minutes, he recovered his wind and struggled 
 out, to my great joy. I had half a mile to walk, 
 through mud up to my knees, wet through and 
 covered with dirt. At last we found firm ground, 
 and re-formed the brigade. After a march of 
 about five miles we found ourselves in front of the 
 enemy, who occupied a long line of forts, entrench- 
 ments, and a village covered in front by a broad 
 ditch. We were on the right of Sir Robert Napier's 
 division, who again was on the right of Sir J. 
 Michel's, who was on the right of the French. We 
 first opened on them with the Armstrong guns at 
 long range, and with beautiful accuracy, when 
 they made a movement to outflank our right, and 
 commenced firing at long range at me, who was out 
 on the right front reconnoitring. The cavalry at
 
 172 Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 once commenced a movement to the right, our 
 three light guns came into action, and getting 
 across the broad ditch as well as we could, a loose 
 and desultory charge took place. They certainly 
 showing great pluck or foolhardiness, coming close 
 up and firing at us with a machine which I would 
 rather have fired at me than fire, and then dancing 
 away like a lot of rabbits. They were sturdy- 
 looking men, mounted on small horses, very 
 active and in very good wind, giving a great deal 
 of trouble to catch. They never made any regular 
 formation, but still gave a good deal of trouble. 
 The affair ended in their being entirely broken, 
 and pursued to some distance by the irregular 
 cavalry. Our loss was very small, three men 
 killed, three officers wounded, about a dozen men 
 wounded, and about twenty horses killed and 
 wounded. The whole position was success- 
 fully forced on all points, and the whole army 
 occupied their position for the night. The whole 
 work was done by the cavalry and artillery. Yes- 
 terday was a day of rest, and I got my face and 
 hands washed. The night of the 12th we all slept 
 out in the heaviest dew I ever felt, but we have 
 now got our tents up and are in comfort. This 
 morning, with the exception of the cavalry brigade 
 and the 44th Regiment, the whole army has moved 
 down to attack the North Taku Fort. The firing 
 began at 6.15 a.m., and has now (noon) entirely 
 ceased except an occasional gun at long intervals. 
 We are protecting the rear and guarding the road 
 to Tiensin. We are about a mile and a quarter 
 from the Peiho river, there about 200 yards across.
 
 Letters from China. 173 
 
 I first discovered the river late last night, having 
 been led there by the report of an officer on picket, 
 who fancied he heard the enemy making a bridge. 
 I had quite an. adventurous walk, but was glad to 
 verify our exact position. At the time I was there 
 the water was quite fresh. I have been down 
 again this morning, and am so scorched by the 
 sun that I am afraid to wash my face and hands, 
 they are so sore. 
 
 18th August. I have been so busy since the 
 14th that I have not had time to write a line. 
 Except one hour and a half (when I slept the day 
 before yesterday), I have never had a minute to 
 myself between daylight and dark. The artillery 
 and some of the infantry attacked a line of en- 
 trenchments on the road to Taku on the 14th quite 
 successfully, and with even less loss of life than we 
 had on the 12th. The work appears to have been 
 done by the artillery, who fired very well. We are 
 still on the same ground, and are likely to stay 
 here till the army makes a decisive move. Yester- 
 day and the day before I have been at my favourite 
 work, reconnoitring. On the first day I only 
 pushed out about four miles, fell in with a party 
 of Tartar cavalry, who would not be tempted into 
 the open, and succeeded in capturing two fine 
 mules and a pony. Yesterday I started at 11 with 
 seven dragoons and nine irregulars, a companion, 
 and an interpreter. We rode seven miles out on 
 the Tiensin road ; found the country improve as 
 we got on, with plenty of fine grass and firmer 
 ground. I then turned down to the Peiho river, 
 but got entangled in rice-fields and cultivation,
 
 174 Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 through which there were only narrow paths. I 
 emerged at length at a small hamlet, halted the 
 men, threw out a couple of vedettes to watch the 
 open country, sent the interpreter to speak to the 
 people, and in five minutes we were the best friends 
 in the world. They brought us river water, sweet 
 as the Nile water, and you may fancy how I 
 enjoyed it after five days of brackish water. After 
 a time they became confidential, and took fresh 
 water to my men, and it ended in the men coming 
 down to the village to water their horses ; they also 
 brought me some fowls, and I gave them a dollar, 
 and many assurances that the English did not 
 intend to hurt the poor inhabitants. After leaving 
 this hamlet I intended to have pushed along by the 
 bank of the Peiho, but all of a sudden caught sight 
 of a large party of cavalry barring my road home. 
 I thought we were in for a fight at odds of ten to 
 one, but just as I had made the best disposition 
 I could, we made them out to be a large party of 
 our own cavalry on a foraging expedition. I really 
 felt very thankful, as at least half our party must 
 have fallen in so unequal a fight, and when I fight, 
 I like to have a fair chance. I got home about 
 5, and the dinner I ate would have frightened you, 
 and the quantity of beer I drank, for (blessed bo 
 the man who got it up) we have beer in plenty. 
 I really cannot make out our plans, and whether 
 we are going to operate on this or the other side 
 of the river. We are getting up a ten days' stock 
 of provisions. I don't believe they have any troops 
 between this place and Tiensin, on the left bank 
 of the river. The country people told me yesterday
 
 Letters from China. 175 
 
 that the small party I saw on the 16th was the 
 only armed party they had seen for some days. 
 As far as personal comfort is concerned I have 
 no just reason to complain, though I have the least 
 baggage of any of the staff. I don't expect to see 
 the rest of my effects for a month, by which time 
 I shall be very ragged. My health is as usual 
 wonderful, and I. have a fine appetite, and get as 
 much sleep as I deserve. There are plenty of 
 vegetables in the native gardens radishes, celery, 
 beans, pumpkins, water melons, grapes, peaches, 
 and I have seen a few apples. I believe we shall 
 get plenty of fruit at Tiensin. The climate is very 
 fine, very like that of the Crimea, but the nights 
 are cooler than there at this season. The only 
 drawbacks are the soppy state of the ground, which 
 is only just above the river bed, the nasty taste 
 of the water, and the horseflies, which are a 
 fearful nuisance ; otherwise it is not half so bad a 
 country as I expected to find it. 
 
 Vdtli August. The French had a fight yesterday 
 across the river. They went over in the morning 
 to make a reconnaissance, were fired on, and after 
 four hours' firing they established themselves in 
 the village where they were attacked. I was 
 down for about an hour and a half, and from the 
 opposite side of the river had a very good view 
 of the Tartar force. They were all mounted, and 
 I estimated them at 1,500, others say 2,000. Last 
 night a wounded man was brought in, who must 
 have been out since this day week, as he had three 
 sword cuts. He had not a stitch of clothes on, and 
 is unwilling to speak, so we cannot make out
 
 176 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 whether he is a Tartar or a Chinese. I fed him 
 with rice, which he ate greedily, and brandy and 
 water, which he seemed to enjoy, and he is now 
 improving. There was a very heavy explosion 
 at about half- past 7 last evening in the direction 
 of the Taku Forts, and another at about 3 o'clock 
 to-day. I am going off at about half-past 5 
 to-morrow with a picked party of ten men to 
 reconnoitre up the river. I intend to reach about 
 twelve miles from hence if I can manage it. My 
 great object is to discover the locale of some forts 
 or a camp somewhere between this and Tiensin on 
 the river, and to find out whether the enemy have 
 a bridge there. I shall have a good day's ride at 
 any rate. A bridge across the Peiho is to be com- 
 menced to-morrow, and I hope that on Wednesday 
 or Thursday we shall all cross to the other bank. 
 The Tartars opposed the French very pluckily 
 yesterday, and when the skirmishers were with- 
 drawn to allow their field guns to open, the 
 Tartars charged them with a loud hurrah. This I 
 saw myself. They carried off their wounded under 
 the very, noses of the French infantry, and only 
 left two wounded men on the ground at last. 
 They are worth the Cossacks ten times over. 
 
 21s August. I had a capital ride yesterday, 
 starting at half-past 6, as I was detained by my 
 interpreter. I reached a point not more than fifteen 
 miles from Tiensin, besides examining a part of the 
 river bank, and obtained a good deal of information. 
 We breakfasted in an arbour of vines in a Chinese 
 garden, surrounded by a gaping multitude. The 
 grapes, alas, were quite unripe, but I have seldom
 
 Letters from China. 177 
 
 seen finer bundles, apparently a sort of muscateL 
 Poshing up again into the plain I reached a village 
 called Chin Liang Chung, on the high road to 
 Tiensin, where I discovered three small deserted 
 field works and large stores of forage. There is a 
 fine hard plain there across which an army might 
 march, and a profusion of rich grass and herbage. 
 It was awfully hot, but after a rest of an hour or so 
 in a deserted farmhouse, I reached our camp soon 
 after 5 o'clock as fresh as when I started, ate a 
 capital dinner, and slept like a top all night. 
 
 2'2ncl August. Yesterday the forts fell. We 
 knew they were to be attacked, and the night 
 before sat watching bouquets of fireballs, which 
 the Chinese threw up to show what our working 
 parties were doing. The firing began about 5 a.m., 
 but as the cavalry were held in readiness to turn 
 out at the shortest notice we could not go down to 
 see what was doing. We only knew that the firing 
 ceased about 9 o'clock, and that all the Chinese 
 flags were hauled down. An effectual stop was 
 put to inquiry by a most furious storm which fell 
 on us in the afternoon, and which has converted the 
 camp into a swamp of mud. First came a dust 
 storm and a violent wind, followed by floods of 
 rain. I had a good deep trench to my tent, saw 
 all right overhead, fastened the door, got on my 
 bedstead, and resigned myself philosophically to 
 sleep. When I awoke the tent was two inches 
 deep in water, the flood having swept over trenches 
 and all. Luckily there were some stacks of coarse 
 straw near at hand, and we managed to floor the 
 tents for the night, or the men must have lain in
 
 178 Days of a Soldiers Life. 
 
 the water. Bare legs and no shoes are the order of 
 the day. We are completely imprisoned in our 
 camp, but are equally safe from attack not that 
 there is a Tartar soldier on this side the river 
 between our post and Tiensin. The whole of the 
 forts both on the north and south side are in our 
 possession and are garrisoned by our troops. Our 
 loss is about 150 killed and wounded, the French 
 about the same ; the Chinese loss must be at least 
 600, and we took over 2,000 prisoners. 
 
 23rd August. I have been into Tungkoo to-day, 
 where head-quarters are established. I was so busy 
 I had no time even to look for the Taku Forts. 
 Sir Hope Grant and Lord Elgin are so satisfied 
 with my report of the road which I explored on 
 Monday, that it is proposed to march the whole 
 army that way. The Chinese have given up all 
 their positions, munitions of war, &c., &c., as far 
 as Tiensin. The gunboats and other vessels of 
 light draught are in the river, and the Admiral 
 went up this morning to Tiensin. Sir Hope 
 Grant's own words were, " There will be no more 
 fighting." They appear to have had a very tough 
 fight on Tuesday ; we had about fourteen officers 
 wounded. I saw General Napier, and congratu- 
 lated him on his success. Tungkoo is a small 
 town within an entrenched camp, with the usual 
 Tartar huts for the troops ; it is a beastly place 
 and smells horribly. I found headquarters es- 
 tablished in a joss-house, and looking very dirty 
 and uncomfortable. 
 
 24<th August. We inarch to-morrow at 6 a.m. 
 to Chin Liang Chung, eleven miles on the road to
 
 Letters from China, 179 
 
 Tiensin, and on the following day to Tiensin. 
 The Admiral returned last night from his river 
 trip. He reports the Tartar army as having fled 
 in thorough disorder, and that Lung Kolinsum, the 
 commander-in-chief, bolted yesterday with only 
 twenty followers. By the way, they say that his 
 name is Sam Collinson, and that he is a discharged 
 marine of bad character. He is very likely an 
 Irishman. 
 
 Tiensin, 29th August. My last letter left us 
 under orders to move from Sinho, which happy 
 event took place on the 25th. We marched on 
 the first day to Chin Liang Chung, which place 
 was the limit of my reconnaissances. The day 
 was hot but still bearable, and I enjoyed my ride 
 over the grassy plains, fragrant with wild herbs. 
 I had hardly finished my work of establishing the 
 brigade in camp, finding water, fuel, and forage 
 for 2,000 men and 1,400 animals, when the Bri- 
 gadier told me that I must go off and examine the 
 road for the following day, as he did not like 
 marching on an unknown road. At 2 o'clock I 
 was in the saddle, and off again in a broiling sun, 
 with Mr. Wade, the Chinese Secretary of Legation, 
 as a companion. We marched out for two hours 
 across a plain covered with luxuriant grass, and 
 patches of what is called Caffre corn, till we hit 
 on a village, where we dismounted to make in- 
 quiries. From thence we pushed on to another, 
 found out all we could, and finally got home in 
 time for a dinner by moonlight. We marched at 
 7 the next morning, and reached the villages in 
 about two hours. After this I had to find the 
 
 K 2
 
 180 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 road as well as I could. We soon got on the banks 
 of the river, along which we marched for about a 
 mile, then through high corn, and then again along 
 the river bank. At one place we crossed a bridge 
 over a narrow stream full of boats, and then entered 
 into about a mile of the most carefully cultivated 
 gardens I ever saw. After this we marched for 
 some distance through a vast sea of high corn, 
 touched on a village, which was not the one I was 
 looking for, turned the head of the column, dived 
 again into the cereal ocean, and finally emerged 
 at the town of Tah Chi Koo, just beyond which, 
 I spied the English and French colours side by 
 side on two new forts, and near there I found 
 ground for our camp, w r ater, and fuel. The forts 
 were two of which I had heard in my recon- 
 naissance as covering the approach to Tiensin on 
 both flanks of the river, and exactly corresponded 
 with the intelligence I had obtained. We had a 
 charming camp under trees, green grass under 
 foot, and sweet water to drink all very appreciable 
 luxuries after the sun, mud, and brackish water of 
 Pihtang and Sinho. We marched again on the 
 following morning. After passing the forts, about 
 half a mile of gardens, and a small village, we 
 struck a raised causeway, which led to a suburb 
 of the town, and through it to a bridge of boats, 
 crossing which, and proceeding through about a 
 half mile of suburb, we reached a plain bounded 
 by a wall, which touches the river at the southern 
 fort near Tah Chi Koo. Inside this is the temple 
 of Hai Kwang, where we are now established, 
 and just outside the wall is a fine grass plain,
 
 Letters from China. 181 
 
 where the brigade are encamped. Two brigadiers 
 with their staff and a commissariat are established 
 in the temple. I have a place screened off a long 
 hall with a verandah, where I am very comfortable, 
 and hope not to be disturbed. The shelter of a 
 roof is very pleasant, as the sun is very hot by day, 
 and my only annoyance are mosquitoes and dogs. 
 We found a colony of priests in the temple, who 
 have all been requested to vacate but one a slippery 
 looking dog with a shaved head, who would be very 
 troublesome if allowed. His dogs are troublesome, 
 and I should not be surprised if they disappeared at 
 some favourable opportunity. It is very much 
 warmer here than at Sinho, but very dry, so that 
 the heat is not relaxing, and the amount of work I 
 get through in the course of the day is pretty con- 
 siderable. Yesterday morning, with twenty-five 
 men as escort, I entirely surveyed the walls of the 
 city, from which we are about a mile distant. It is 
 completely surrounded by a high wall with only four 
 gates, one in the centre of each face. The north 
 and south faces are about 1,800 yards each, the 
 others about 1,200. There is a watch tower over each 
 gate and at each angle, which as well as the walls 
 are in a considerable state of disrepair. Rather 
 more than half the city is surrounded by a dense 
 suburb. There is a good road all round, then a filthy 
 ditch, and then the suburb. I not only examined 
 the walls and roads but parts of the suburb and the 
 city from three of the watch towers. I found the 
 people very civil, I believe very much frightened, 
 but our intercourse was confined to gestures. I 
 saw some good shops apothecaries', crockery
 
 1 82 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 shops, ironware, eating - houses, greengrocers', 
 tailors', shoemakers', and tobacconists', and one 
 picture shop, and longed to freight a ship to 
 you; but I must restrain myself till we embark, 
 as at present I have neither money nor means of 
 carriage. 
 
 30th August. Our market is now established and 
 in full swing. The supply of vegetables and fruit is 
 very great, plenty of grapes, peaches, apples, pears, 
 onions of various kinds, and a host of vegetables 
 belonging to this latitude, and most of which may 
 be found in the Mediterranean. The country seems 
 able to produce nearly all we want, and as the stores 
 which we have at the mouth of the river have not 
 yet been sent up, we are living on the country. 
 Beef and mutton are plentiful and good, and there 
 are quantities of ducks, geese, chickens, and 
 pigeons. It is a wonderful change from India, and 
 I do not dislike the people. The better classes are 
 not disagreeable looking, many very little darker 
 than ourselves, only tinged with a sort of cafe au 
 lait tint, and even the government people are far 
 preferable to the beastly natives of India. The 
 heat is much greater than near the coast, but not 
 oppressive in the shade. The Imperial Commis- 
 sioner Kweliang is expected to-morrow, when the 
 talking will commence. I was in hopes they would 
 have tried another fight in the open, but there 
 appears no chance of any such luck. We hear no 
 news, and I am far too busy to go and look for it. 
 It is rumoured that about 2,500 men are to march 
 to Pekin, and we expect to go. I am also told that 
 it is quite certain the cavalry will not winter here,
 
 Letters from China. 183 
 
 so I may hope to get home before many months 
 have elapsed. 
 
 September 1st. I hope I shall be shooting 
 partridges in dear old England this day year. I 
 have had several very interesting rides since I 
 wrote to you. Yesterday I rode through the city 
 with Sir Hope Grant in the morning ; in the after- 
 noon I explored the road for about two miles 
 beyond the walls, directly on the road to Pekin. 
 There is a great deal of poverty in the city, and I 
 should say that two-thirds of it was inhabited by 
 a very needy population, but I saw little actual 
 misery. As you may imagine, there is much to 
 interest where everything one sees is new and 
 curious. There are innumerable cook-shops, where 
 the food looks clean, if not according to our fancies ; 
 and I never saw anything neafcer than the movable 
 cookshops, carried at each end of a bamboo on 
 men's shoulders, with the fire and cooking apparatus 
 on one side, and the plates, bowls, store of pro- 
 visions, &c., on the other. A great many of the 
 shops are shut, but all those open are very neat and 
 clean. Among other articles of food for sale I saw 
 the fruit of the lotus, which I have also eaten on 
 the Nepaul frontier. We see very few women 
 about, and those chiefly very old and very hideous, 
 indeed the female children are very much less good- 
 looking than the boys. One can't call the Chinese 
 a handsome people, but by no means repulsive 
 looking. In my ride yesterday evening I passed 
 where only a few Europeans . have yet been, and 
 found the people very civil but very curious. I 
 was lucky enough to see one woman of a more
 
 184 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 respectable class through the open door of a house. 
 She was very pale, and nearly as fair as an English 
 woman. All the women here, even the poorest, 
 have the small feet, and it is pitiable to see them 
 hobbling along, particularly when the dread of an 
 approaching barbarian makes them hurry their 
 steps. At the extreme point of my ride yesterday 
 evening I found the cortege waiting for the 
 entrance of the Imperial Commissioner Kweliang 
 a miserable turn-out of chairs, country carts, and 
 attendants on Tartar ponies. In one of the 
 narrowest parts of the suburb I met an official 
 servant of some kind coming on at a sharp pace 
 directly in my way, and my motioning him out of 
 the road was received with immense approbation by 
 the people, and shouts of derision followed him 
 after he had passed. I fancy the people hate the 
 government most cordially. In the short distance 
 I got on the Pekin road, I crossed three streams of 
 some size, one, I believe, the canal, and the other 
 two affluents of the Peiho. This morning I had a 
 good ride down the river. The cultivation is almost 
 continuous, and the gardens the perfection of neat- 
 ness, every inch of ground being most carefully 
 planted and watered. The people are certainly 
 most industrious and seem very cheerful. I saw 
 quantities of the finest snipe I ever met with, and 
 can fancy any amount of shooting during the 
 winter. I should not mind a winter at Tiensin 
 under a good roof, with a pleasant party and a 
 few books. Anything would be better than a winter 
 in the Taku Forts, amongst the salt marshes of that 
 dreary swamp.
 
 Letters from China. 185 
 
 September 2nd. News has just arrived from 
 head-quarters that the Chinese have accepted all our 
 terms unconditionally, that a force of 700 men is to 
 remain at Taku, about 2,000 at or near Chefoo, in 
 the province of Shantung, and that the rest of us 
 are to depart as speedily as possible. 200 cavalry 
 aro to go to Pekin, but I have no hope of going 
 with so small a force. My thoughts now turn 
 towards home, and I shall spare no exertion to 
 enable me to get home for Christmas, if I can only 
 make arrangements to obviate the necessity of a 
 return to India at the expiration of my leave. I 
 could not enjoy it if I had to return to that horrid 
 country. China I could tolerate, though it is 
 rather far off. I am looking anxiously for the 
 arrival of a small portmanteau, in which I have 
 iorty dollars, as I should like to buy a few trifles 
 here, as they will probably be different from what 
 I shall pick up at Hong Kong on the way down. 
 
 September 3rd. We go out of our joss-house 
 to-morrow, as it is to be turned into a hospital. 
 I hate the idea of our beastly tents again, but 
 it can't last long now, and every day gets cooler. 
 I rather like these joss-houses. They are generally 
 built with several courts, with trees and plants 
 and dwelling places for the priests, and make 
 very tolerable rough quarters. The head-quarter 
 staff are established in a very large one in the 
 city. The more I see of the city, the more im- 
 poverished and decaying does it look. As far as I 
 have seen China, all the public buildings have the 
 same neglected look as those of Turkey. Chinese 
 government is evidently a very sick man. I have
 
 1 86 Days of a Soldiers Life. 
 
 no doubt if we had moved in force on Pekin that 
 the whole machine would have fallen to pieces, 
 and then who is to put it together again. I saw 
 a great many itinerant fishmongers in the town 
 to-day, some with live fish for sale. There is a 
 small fish sold which looks very like whitebait. I 
 also saw some cakes at a baker's very like queen 
 cakes. But, alas ! I have no money, and can buy 
 nothing. My baggage has all gone to Talien Bay, 
 and I have no more clothes than I started with. 
 I met the General this morning, who told me that 
 we should all be off home directly ; I hope he does 
 not consider India home. I don't think I have 
 mentioned the ice, of which we have quantities, 
 at the cost of about ninepence for twenty-five 
 pounds. As it is Peiho ice it is very sweet, though 
 not always free from straws and other trifles, 
 which float in our cups as it melts. Although tea 
 is not so cheap here as in the south, it is still the 
 universal beverage. I first had it offered to me 
 by a clean little boy at Chin Liang Chung, with 
 whom I was so pleased that I presented his father 
 with a dollar to send him to school. It is made 
 very weak, and drank quite hot, and I see it for 
 sale at all the cookstalls about the city. There is 
 a wandering food-seller, with his two pendant 
 stalls, just gone by. We turned out of the temple 
 this morning after breakfast, and in three hours 
 had a mat house built by the Chinese, which 
 is really just as comfortable in fine weather as 
 a house. I changed my room yesterday and slept 
 in a small anteroom to the Brigadier's quarter, and 
 passed such a night as I do not wish to repeat
 
 Letters from China. 187 
 
 such mosquitoes, or rather such swarms. They 
 didn't bite me, I am too old and tough for that, 
 but they actually kept me awake all night after 
 about 11 o'clock. We had some rain in the night, 
 the first since our Sinho storm, and it is so close 
 and looks so dark that I think we shall have 
 more. 
 
 September Qtlt. After all I am going to Pekin, 
 
 and we start on Tuesday ; 500 cavalry, 100 
 
 artillery, and the remainder infantry, is the present 
 
 arrangement; but as every plan changes daily it is 
 
 impossible to say what conclusion the heads will 
 
 arrive at by that time. I am clothesless and 
 
 moneyless, but I hope for some pay, as I should 
 
 like to buy a few odds and ends in Pekin. Much I 
 
 cannot carry, as my only portmanteau is a pair 
 
 of saddle-bags. I went into the city this morning 
 
 and breakfasted at head-quarters, after a walk 
 
 through a street of shops, which was dull work, 
 
 without money or the means of speaking; but 
 
 a friend helped me to buy a fur coat for myself and 
 
 another for you, and has promised to take them 
 
 home for me. Mine is black, and yours white 
 
 lambskin, very soft and fine, like silk. I was 
 
 asked only five pounds for one sable skin ! I 
 
 saw no good old china, and can buy plenty of 
 
 pretty things at Hong Kong on my way down. 
 
 If I can possibly manage it I must bring home 
 
 some Chinese pictures; they are most ludicrous, 
 
 but really not more so than the Pre-Eaphaelite 
 
 school of paintings, I saw two or three wonderful 
 
 pictures of the landing of the Embassies in 1858. 
 
 There is a very curious drawing of the defeat
 
 1 88 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 at the Peiho last year, but I can't get a copy of 
 it we have the laugh on our side now. I believe 
 the convention is to be ratified to-morrow, and 
 hear that the French get the same indemnity as 
 ourselves eight million taels (about two million 
 six hundred thousand pounds), which is quite 
 ridiculous, as they have about half the force and 
 no prior claims. 
 
 Yangtsun, llt/i September. My last letter went 
 off in a great hurry quite unfinished. On the 7th 
 we received an order to prepare to move on the 8th 
 with 1st Dragoon Guards, Pane's Horse, two batteries 
 of guns, half a company of Engineers, half the 
 99th, and six companies of Marines. We marched 
 the first day through Tientsin across the canal and 
 just beyond the Wenho river, where we encamped 
 near a place called Seckoo. As soon as we arrived 
 I went on five miles towards our next halting place 
 and examined the road. The day was very hot, 
 but nothing like the previous day, which was just 
 the counterpart of the day on which I marched 
 from Nawatgung last year. There was a furious 
 hot wind blowing which sent the thermometer up 
 to 102 in Indian tents ; clouds of dust and a feeling 
 of depression most uncomfortable. On the 9th we 
 marched about ten miles just beyond the village of 
 Pookow, where I found ground for the force, and 
 immediately started with one Sikh orderly to look 
 for our next day's road. In about seven miles I 
 reached the beginning of this town, which is more 
 than a mile long. You may fancy the curiosity 
 excited by the first armed barbarian who had ever 
 appeared here. However the people were very
 
 Letters from China. 189 
 
 civil and obedient, and did not press on me. I had 
 seen four men watching me before I entered the 
 town, and as I emerged from the north gate 1 saw 
 a cortege leaving a joss-house about 200 yards off. 
 The principal people were all on the road, and the 
 last files of an armed escort just mounted. I had 
 left my orderly at the gate and was quite alone. 
 One of us must run, and as I saw signs of hesita- 
 tion in the other party I rode straight down on 
 them and shouted to them to be off. The rearmost 
 man began to trot as he picked up a pikehead ; 
 they began to quicken their pace ; the next began 
 to gallop. I gave them a regular howl, when the 
 whole party broke into a gallop, and the last time I 
 saw them they were a mile away racing as hard as 
 their ponies could carry them. I had a long ride 
 back by a different road, and did not get in till 
 half-past 2, having been in the saddle since half- 
 past 4 almost without dismounting. The General 
 and Lord Elgin came up in the evening. We 
 marched early yesterday morning and are now 
 encamped north of this town. As I am quarter- 
 master-general to the whole force I have plenty to 
 do, am always with the advance guard, and just in 
 my element. I believe I am to go on a day in 
 advance of the army. Yesterday I rode some Avay 
 up the road to our next halt, and saw some pretty 
 villages with gardens, avenues of trees, and wells. 
 Just as I got back to our pickets it began to rain, 
 and continued for some time, but I managed to 
 keep pretty dry in an old brick kiln. When I 
 reached our quarters at 3 p.m. I found an order for 
 me at once to go on a day's march ahead. I got
 
 190 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 all ready, but was countermanded on account of the 
 weather. The evening was fearfully wet, and our 
 move for to-day was postponed. To-day is lovely 
 after the rain, and as we are under the roof of a 
 very dilapidated old temple I am taking the oppor- 
 tunity to begin for the next mail. My proceeding 
 is overlooked by a huge idol, with long beard and 
 moustache and a very solemn face. On each side 
 of him are two boys, one holding a pile of books 
 the other a box, and behind him a picture in body 
 colour of the inevitable dragon which appears 
 somehow in most Chinese pictures. The country 
 is still apparently quite flat, but of course rises 
 gradually, as the river has a good current. It is 
 covered with cultivation, so that it is not easy to 
 find room for our camp. We are so badly provided 
 with transport that the halt is a great relief. If I 
 go on it will be in company of Mr. Parkes, the 
 consul at Canton, who is a most agreeable com- 
 panion, and speaks Chinese like a native. This 
 morning a corporal from our advanced posts 
 brought in two mandarins and their attendants in 
 three carriages. They were bearers of a letter to 
 head-quarters, which I am told informs us that the 
 head man of the empire will be sent to treat with 
 us, and inquires why we are so stern. They will 
 be forwarded on directly to the French canip, which 
 is one march behind us. 
 
 September loth, Hoseewoo. Late at night on the 
 llth I got an order to proceed with a small escort, 
 and accompanied by Mr. Parkes, attached to the 
 Embassy, two marches in advance to this town, 
 supposed to be occupied by the enemy. We were
 
 Letters from China. 191 
 
 to request them to remove, and if they declined 
 were to take up a position and wait for the rest of 
 the force. At Nat-sai-tsum, seven miles on the 
 road, I took up ground for a fresh camp, and then 
 marched steadily on, through a very pretty country, 
 slightly broken, with groves of trees, and backed by 
 a fine range of hills in the distance. After march- 
 ing about four miles, I fell in with a small Tartar 
 picket, which slowly retreated before us the whole 
 clay, always keeping well out of our reach. It was 
 a charming day, and I should have thoroughly 
 enjoyed the ride, had not one of my servants let 
 my second charger loose on the road, with saddle- 
 bags containing my brushes, combs, soap, writing- 
 materials, drinking cup, knife and fork, tobacco, 
 and my small store of eatables, my saddle and 
 bridle, two horse blankets, &c., and up to the 
 present time I have not a trace of him. It is the 
 greatest loss I could have had, as I have now but 
 one horse, and am thoroughly crippled, just as I had 
 become avant courier of the force. "VVe slept that 
 night in a large monastery, having found the town 
 quita empty of troops. Soon after our arrival we 
 set to work to get supplies, but found the inha- 
 bitants very much alarmed and very unwilling to 
 assist us. In a short time a mandarin came in from 
 Tungchow with a despatch for Lord Elgin, which 
 I sent on ; and Mr. Parkes having persuaded the 
 mandarin that he was very tired, we gave him a 
 room, asked him to dinner, and kept him as a 
 hostage for our own safety. We had a very hard 
 day's work, and at about G o'clock discovered that 
 the people of the town, who had been arranging
 
 192 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 about supplies, had taken themselves off, and that 
 all hope of dinner for ourselves had vanished. As 
 I had breakfasted at half-past 4 this was not to be 
 borne, and on Mr. Parkes suggesting that we should 
 capture two of the head men and keep them as 
 hostages for the due fulfilment of their promises, 
 we sallied out into the town, found our friends, and 
 brought them safely through half a mile of town to 
 our quarters, where I locked them up for the night 
 in a great joss-house with some hideous idols for 
 company, and a Sikh sentry at the door. Dinner 
 was an absolute necessity, so we got a man of the 
 1st Dragoon Guards to cook a stew for us of such 
 materials as we could lay hands on, and at half- 
 past 8, in company with our friend the mandarin, 
 we sat down to a great bowl of stew. One of my 
 patrols picked up another mandarin at 3 in the 
 morning, the bearer of a letter to Lord Elgin on 
 the previous day, then finding his way back to 
 Tungchow. We kept him for the night, as we did 
 not wish to send any news of our position, and 
 despatched both gentlemen on their journey early 
 in the morning. I was out early, and about 9 
 o'clock the force began to come in, and as I had 
 plenty to do I did not get far from camp that 
 day. 
 
 20th September, Chan Kia Whan. I have an 
 eventful tale to tell of my adventures since I last 
 wrote. On the 16th I received orders to proceed 
 the following morning at a very early hour to 
 Tungchow, in company with Mr. Parkes and an 
 escort, for the purpose of his arranging the terms of 
 the treaty, and of my fixing the camp for the troops
 
 Letters from China. 193 
 
 during the time of negotiation. We had a very 
 dusty and fatiguing ride of twenty-seven miles 
 through a town named Matow, near which we were 
 met by a party of mandarins. As we came along 
 I remarked to Mr. Parkes that the distance from 
 this place (at which the limit of our approach to 
 Tungchow was fixed) exactly cut us off from water. 
 At the gate of this town we were met by the 
 general commanding the troops, who requested us 
 to halt till we had explained the object of our 
 advance at the head of an armed party, and 
 pointed to large encampments of troops which he 
 said were under his command. He was very civil, 
 and after receiving our explanation drew back, and 
 we rode on. Tungchow, which we reached in 
 about three-quarters of an hour more, is a large 
 walled city. We entered at the south gate, rode 
 though a paved street nearly to the centre of the 
 town, and by a cross street to the east gate, through 
 nearly a mile of suburb, and finally dismounted at a 
 large building, used as a hall of conference, where 
 we also found a small courtyard, with comfortable 
 apartments for our accommodation. After an 
 elaborate Chinese breakfast (which I will describe 
 later) Mr. Parkes went to his confab with the 
 Chinese Commissioners, and we passed the day as 
 we could, taking a walk in the cool of the evening, 
 and finishing with a Chinese dinner, the exact 
 counterpart of the breakfast, and a most luxurious 
 sleep in capital beds ; a thick wadded coverlid under, 
 and a thinner one of satin over, were somewhat 
 different from my late style of comfort. The next 
 morning Mr. Parkes, Lord Elgin's private secretary, 
 
 o
 
 194 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 and I, with five men of the 1st Dragoon Guards 
 and my Sikh orderly, started at half-past 5 to fix 
 the ground for the camp. We left by a different 
 road so as to cut off the passage through the town, 
 and I was much surprised at seeing a party of 
 labourers digging a ditch within a mile of the town, 
 and troops marching in every direction towards the 
 point from which our army was expected to 
 approach. After we passed this town matters 
 looked still more serious, and when we reached a 
 point about a mile and a half beyond it I bad no 
 more doubts of the very serious position of affairs. 
 A point at which a high bank was crossed by the 
 road, was completely occupied by large masses of 
 troops, cavalry were collected in every favourable 
 spot, and every ditch was lined with infantry. 
 ^ r - Lockej the private secretary, found eleven guns 
 in battery which were not there on the previous 
 day, which completely swept our road of approach. 
 Mr. Parkes now began to show his suspicions were 
 awakened ; mine had been alive since (on the pre- 
 vious day) I saw that the Chinese intended to make 
 us encamp at a distance from water. I had then 
 requested Mr. Parkes to intimate to the mandarin 
 with us, that I must have the small stream at least 
 as part of our ground, and that I should probably 
 locate the troops so as to command both it and the 
 Peiho, when he answered, " Oh, we will supply 
 water by hand," an answer which completely 
 opened my eyes, but I fear not those of Mr. 
 Parkes. To return to my story, it was agreed that 
 Mr. Parkes, with one of my men, should at once 
 return to the city, demand the reason of this
 
 Letters from China. 195 
 
 display, and the immediate withdrawal of the 
 
 ^*- & V^\ 
 
 troops, that Mr. Loefce should go on to Sir Hope 
 Grant, who was within a mile and a half, with a 
 short note from me, and I agreed to remain with 
 Mr. Thomson of the Commissariat and the re- 
 mainder of the men in the Chinese lines, endeavour 
 to find the Peiho River, and keep my eyes wide 
 open till Mr. Parkes returned. I accordingly turned 
 along the high bank which I have mentioned, and 
 rode down the left of the Chinese position. During 
 the night the bank had been turned into a complete 
 entrenchment for infantry, and I found four, large 
 and several smaller guns in position. I had not 
 ridden far before I was met by a military mandarin 
 of rank, whose manner was so rude that I treated 
 him very shortly. He endeavoured to prevent my 
 further passage, but after a long delay, much 
 exercise of a patience and good temper I did not 
 feel, I succeeded in riding through about a mile of 
 
 / O O 
 
 the left of their position. Every village was filled 
 with troops, every ditch was deepened, and they 
 were then bringing up fresh guns into position. 
 I even succeeded in getting out to the front, 
 and found myself within 300 yards of the skir- 
 mishers of the 1st Dragoon Guards. How I 
 longed to gallop into them you may imagine, but I 
 had promised Mr. Parkes to remain till his return. 
 That was enough. My military mandarin, I con- 
 clude, became tired of following me and took him- 
 self off, when I returned to the line of infantry 
 entrenchment, and carefully noted how their guns 
 were laid, made the pretence of watering our horses, 
 and found out the depth of the small stream in rear, 
 
 o 2
 
 196 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 and as many other observations as I could, without 
 drawing suspicion on my party. The infantry 
 were the best looking men I had seen in China, 
 hearty, healthy, well-dressed young men, and 
 nearly all armed with new matchlocks and gingalls, 
 an enormous kind of gun carried by two men and 
 fired from a rest. I had previously spoken to my 
 men, and begged them to trust entirely to me in 
 case of danger, and well they obeyed my request ; 
 had one man lost his head our lives would have 
 been sacrificed. Three hours had now elapsed, and 
 I became very anxious at Mr. Parkes's continued 
 absence ; I therefore returned to where the road 
 passed through the centre of the Chinese position. 
 I should mention that about an hour before this a 
 Chinese flag of truce had come out from the city to 
 Sir Hope Grant, and that immediately they had 
 returned, orders were given to the Chinese troops. 
 The whole of their cavalry, except a few small 
 parties, were moved towards their right, more 
 infantry were moved into the villages, and all their 
 flags were stuck up behind the entrenchment. 
 They also became uncivil to me ; no officer came 
 near me, and I felt sure that mischief was intended. 
 As I was on the road a party of French came by 
 from Tungchow and passed out. I sent to speak 
 to them, and learnt that Mr. Parkes was still in 
 the city and was alarmed at the state of affairs. 
 This determined me to move down again to the 
 point from whence I could most easily break 
 through to the English position. I declined an 
 offer of going into a house to feed, and took 
 my party back on to the embankment, along
 
 Letters from China. 197 
 
 which for security of position I had always per- 
 sisted in riding. We had hardly moved off when 
 something made me turn round, and I saw a French 
 officer with a soldier behind him leading a mule, 
 surrounded by the Chinese soldiers, who were 
 scuffling with him on a spot about forty yards off. 
 He broke away from them, when they at once fired 
 and shot his pony. As he fell on the ground a 
 number rushed on him ; one man with a two-handed 
 sword cut him over the back of the head, inflicting 
 a fearful wound ; another struck him with a sword, 
 and another thrust at him with a spear. I at once, 
 leaving my party on the bank, rode down to his 
 assistance, and as I was stooping down from the 
 saddle to take his hand, a Chinese officer snatched 
 my sword from the scabbard, but was forced by 
 another man to give it up, and it was handed back 
 to me. I then returned to the poor officer and got 
 him by the hand, when the same man rushed at 
 me and again snatched my sword, cutting my left 
 hand as I tried to retain it. Some signal was 
 given, the whole force seized their arms (I am not 
 quite sure whether they had not done so when they 
 attacked the French officer), and a mass of men 
 threw themselves upon us, separated me from him, 
 and endeavoured to drag me out of the saddle. Two 
 men seized my feet and tried to force them out of 
 the stirrups, while others tried to push me out of 
 the saddle. For a moment I saw a vision of 
 the most horrible death and the destruction of 
 all my party, but two strokes of the spurs 
 released my feet from the grasp they had 
 on them, and gathering my horse together I
 
 198 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 shouted to my party, " Ride for your lives, men," 
 and breaking through the crowd, who were tugging 
 at me in all directions, I followed them over the 
 embankment. Fortunately I knew the English 
 position exactly, and we rode straight towards it, 
 running the gauntlet on the way of about half a 
 mile of Chinese infantry with matchlocks, gingalls, 
 and the four large guns to their left centre. I 
 never rode in such a hail of shot, and as we reached 
 the point on which the guns were laid they saluted 
 us with a round shot from each, the exact course 
 of which I took good care to remark for future 
 information when the a.rmy advanced. Another 
 minute and we were safe in the midst of the head- 
 quarter staff, and thank God only two out of the 
 number were hit. One man was shot in the leg 
 and his horse through the body, and just as I got 
 the French officer by the hand a man had rushed 
 at the Commissary and stabbed him in the back 
 with a spear. My story was soon told, a message 
 sent to the French, the force put in motion, and in 
 a couple of hours the whole position was in our 
 hands, and the Chinese army dispersed over the 
 whole country. We took and found nearly eighty 
 guns of different sizes, some of them brass, but 
 chiefly iron of small calibre. The army inarched 
 on and through this town, and burned the Chinese 
 camps ahead of it, blowing up immense quantities 
 of gunpowder, and we finally encamped in and 
 about the town, with our advanced posts half-way 
 on the road to Tungchow. I say nothing of my 
 feelings when all was over, or of my sincere thank- 
 fulness for my escape from so horrible a fate. I
 
 Letters from China. 199 
 
 can look calmly on the chances of fair fight, but 
 no one could contemplate the chance of bein^ 
 butchered on the ground by these savages without 
 the greatest horror. How thoroughly Lord Elgin 
 and Mr. Parkes have been deceived we have yet 
 to learn, I am satisfied that the intentions of the 
 Chinese were deceitful and treacherous from the 
 very first, and their submission to our terms only 
 feigned. Their plan was manifestly to compel us 
 to encamp without water, and on the least diffi- 
 culty during the negotiations to fall upon us in 
 that disadvantageous position. Of this I felt sure 
 on the 17th, but Mr. Parkes did not share my sus- 
 picion. Mr.JLoefc, Captain Brabazon, E.A., Mr. de 
 Norman, attached to the Embassy, Mr. Bowlby, 
 the Times correspondent, Mr. Parkes, Lieutenant 
 Anderson, of Fane's Horse, about seventeen men 
 of that regiment, with the one 1st Dragoon Guards 
 man who went back to the city, the poor French 
 officer, M. Adare, and his man, are all missing. 
 A flag of truce was sent to inquire for them late 
 yesterday afternoon, was sent from gate to gate 
 with evasive answers, and was finally fired on by 
 the Tartars and withdrawn. We are in an ugly 
 position ; our numbers, including French, do not 
 exceed 4,000 men at the outside. We have very 
 little ammunition and not too much food, but 
 please God, if the diplomatists do not ruin us, and 
 the General does not lose his head, English pluck 
 and French elan will bring us to a successful con- 
 clusion of the war under the gates of Pekin, that 
 is if it has any. Their army has moved off in 
 that direction, and although I went up within a
 
 2OO Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 mile of Tungchow yesterday I could see no troops 
 on the eastern side. We march to-morrow, but 
 with what purpose or in what direction I do not 
 yet know. Yesterday morning- my sword was 
 found by one of our Sikhs in a house about a mile 
 from the town, so I am again armed. I certainly 
 never expected to see it again ; but I am terribly 
 crippled by the loss of my second horse, saddle, 
 &c. My poor charger and I were thoroughly 
 knocked up, and I do not think I was ever so tired 
 in my life as I was on the night of the 18th. 
 Even yesterday I felt so worn that I could hardly 
 move. I hope we shall both be fresh for to- 
 morrow's work. I estimate the number of the 
 enemy through whom I passed at 8,000, and there 
 must have been a very much larger number on the 
 flanks which I never saw. Sir Hope Grant told 
 me he had information that they were about 15,000 
 strong. On my return from my ride towards Tung- 
 chow yesterday I found a nice brass 5-pounder 
 gun in the road, and had it brought in. Tung- 
 chow is a finer city than Tiensin, walled and full 
 of capital shops. I saw some of the most beautiful 
 wood carving I ever saw as I rode through it on 
 Monday, and lots of furs. This place has been 
 completely plundered, and if I could only carry, 
 and thought it my business to do so, I have no 
 doubt I could have got plenty of curious things ; 
 but since I lost my second horse I am so badly off 
 for carriage that I can only carry my clothes and 
 bed. I confess my notions .of the way to treat the 
 Chinese have quite altered since the day before 
 yesterday, and I am quite disposed to press them
 
 Letters from China. 201 
 
 into the last corner. How we are to conclude the 
 business with our handful of men I do not see, but 
 I have no doubt all will come out right in the end. 
 The days are still rather hot, but the nights very- 
 pleasant, and I generally sleep like a top after my 
 labours. To-day I am quite idle, as you may sup- 
 pose, by my having written such a long letter. 
 
 September 22nd. We were off at 5 yesterday 
 morning. Why so early I do not know. We 
 moved up about three miles and a half, and com- 
 menced attacking the Tartar camp between 9 and 
 10 o'clock. For some time it was all artillery 
 work, the French taking the right, our infantry 
 and artillery the centre, and the cavalry brigade 
 the left. The 1st Dragoon Guards and Fane's 
 Horse were in first line, the 1st Sikh Cavalry in 
 reserve. Soon after 10 o'clock we saw a large 
 mass of Tartar cavalry, I should think 1,500 
 strong, collecting to our front, and for a 
 wonder they packed together, and I thought 
 at one time they were going to charge. The 
 Brigadier soon got his line in front of the 
 enemy, sounded the "trot," and we swept down on 
 them in a good line, the Brigadier leading well to 
 the front. As we drew near they stood quite firm, 
 and received us with a sharp but very ineffective 
 fire from their matchlocks. The gallop sounded 
 when we were within eighty yards of them, and 
 down we went, when, to our great disgust, we 
 found a drop of about four feet, then a narrow 
 road, and a bank of six feet to get up on the other 
 side. The beauty of our charge was quite spoilt, 
 but not its effect. Everybody got over somehow,
 
 2O2 Days of a Soldiers Life. 
 
 and the men went at them with a cheer that sent 
 them flying across country in all directions. Some 
 say that the two squadrons killed 300 men. I say 
 200, and think that mine is really a fair estimate. 
 Fane's Horse made an equally gallant charge to 
 our left, but got into a ditch near a village, which 
 separated us at the time of attack, and were not 
 quite so successful, as half the rear rank fell into 
 the ditch, but they cut up about 150. As soon as 
 the brigade was rallied we moved on, and on 
 nearing a village received an order from Sir Hope 
 Grant, through his military secretary, to take the 
 1st Dragoon Guards through it. Fortunately we 
 had already sent a small party to feel the way, as 
 we were received with a very heavy fire from an 
 entrenched camp at the head of the village, which 
 was full of infantry, and were obliged to withdraw. 
 A few shot and shell moved them out, but they had 
 such a succession of camps that they never showed 
 in the open, and we did not get another chance. 
 We kept advancing on the left and steadily pushing 
 them before us in large numbers; and finally a 
 flank movement of one squadron of Irregular 
 Cavalry against a body of the enemy's cavalry, 
 which showed on the right, sent the whole army off 
 in the direction of Pekin. I went on and burnt 
 two of their camps, in which I found eighteen brass 
 guns and a very large quantity of powder. About 
 4 o'clock we drew back to a position nearer 
 Tungchow, where we are encamped for to-day; 
 and I hope to-morrow that we shall make a forward 
 movement in the direction of Pekin. If not so 
 dusty it would be a beautiful country, full of groves
 
 Letters from China. 203 
 
 of trees and villages. And so ends my present 
 budget. 
 
 24<th September, Camp near TungcJiow. We are 
 encamped about four miles from Tungchow, in a 
 position commanding the approach to Pekin, 
 against which place it is understood that we 
 advance as soon as we have some reinforcements 
 of infantry, some heavy guns, and a supply of 
 ammunition. Since the 21st we have seen nothing 
 of our friends Sam Collinson and his army ; but on 
 the other hand nothing has been learnt definitely 
 of the party of our people in their hands, or of the 
 unfortunate Frenchman who was attacked by them 
 previous to my escape. The more I look back on 
 that event the more surprised I am at its happy 
 conclusion. I can only attribute it to two things 
 the mercy of Providence and the utter cowardice 
 of these savages, who were barbarous enough to 
 commence but had not courage to carry out their 
 attempt. 
 
 25th September. A reconaissance was pushed 
 yesterday up to Pekin, but learnt nothing reliable 
 of the position of the Tartar army, which is, how- 
 ever, supposed to be somewhere to the east of the 
 city. Pekin is a very large walled city, and on 
 this side (south and south-east) is surrounded with 
 trees almost up to the walls. The whole country 
 is abandoned by the inhabitants except the very 
 poor, but is well wooded, studded with numerous 
 villages, and in a high state of cultivation. It is 
 really a pretty country, with park-like scenery, and 
 full of interesting monuments of former and more 
 prosperous days. The villages are very pretty and
 
 204 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 comfortable, with good gardens, and wells of ex- 
 cellent water. We are living in a dilapidated 
 farmhouse, which has been very comfortable, and 
 which even now affords much better shelter from 
 sun and dust than a tent. The soil is very light, 
 and from the continuance of dry weather the 
 whole country is dust, which, the moment the 
 troops begin to move, envelops everything in a 
 dense cloud. In our charge of the 21st, after the 
 first rush, I could see nothing beyond ten yards on 
 either hand, and sometimes not so far. It was 
 really quite ludicrous to see the Tartars tumbling 
 off their little horses and doubling like rabbits in 
 every direction. As they carry few swords, the 
 moment they are overtaken they tumble off and 
 fight on foot with their matchlocks ; and they have 
 a disagreeable habit of lying on the ground with 
 their matchlocks under them as if dead, and then 
 firing when you have passed them. To-morrow 
 we expect Sir R. Napier's division with more 
 artillery and ammunition, and I should think the 
 following day will see a movement in advance. 
 There is a strong suspicion that the Emperor, 
 principal people, and most valuable effects are 
 being or have been removed from Pekin, in which 
 case I do not see what we are to do or with 
 whom we are to communicate. They are evi- 
 dently driving off real negotiation to winter 
 and bad weather, in hopes of thus placing us 
 in an awkward position. How grossly de- 
 ceived our diplomatists have been, and how 
 unable we are to keep pace with Chinese 
 mendacity, time will show. Poor Mr. Parkes has
 
 Letters from China. 205 
 
 paid dearly for his over-confidence. Had he been 
 earlier of my opinion he and his party might have 
 been saved ; but civilians are too apt to pooh-pooh 
 mere military opinion. I have no doubt whatever 
 that the whole business was a deeply laid plot. 
 The distance at which (without a knowledge of 
 the ground) he had agreed that the army was to 
 remain cut us off from water, and placed the army 
 on most objectionable ground. Either they intended 
 to make us fight for water against their entrenched 
 position, or to compel us to fall back to our last 
 encamping ground, which would have been cited by 
 them as an advantage when treating. I dare say 
 an account of a Chinese breakfast will be more 
 amusing than my political disquisitions, so I must 
 go back to my visit to Tunghow. We were put up 
 in a large building called the Hall of Conference, 
 and in the principal room of which Mr. Parkes met 
 the Chinese Commissioners. As we had ridden 
 twenty-seven miles, on a very hot and dusty 
 morning, you may suppose we were pretty hungry 
 on arrival, and called for breakfast, which was 
 served an hour and a half after we got in. I won't 
 say I had not drunk about a quart of tea previously, 
 that refreshment being always forthcoming except 
 in very poor villages. We all agreed to eat in 
 Chinese fashion, and found a pair of chopsticks and 
 a long two-pronged fork, a small saucer for soy, and 
 a little cup for wine, placed before each person. 
 The first course consisted of grapes, peaches, 
 apples, pears, dried almonds, bits of sausage, candied 
 walnuts and some other nut, pickles, and dried 
 fruits, of which we ate gravely, being told that they
 
 206 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 were intended as a whet to the appetite. The next 
 course was a little more satisfying, and consisted of 
 small bowls of birds' nest soup, shrimp soup, crab, 
 sea slugs, the spinal marrow of sheep, and a pre- 
 paration of eels. I ate of everything except the 
 sea slugs, and though the dishes wanted flavour 
 got on pretty well. Not so all the party. The 
 Times correspondent looked very miserable, and 
 made notes in his pocket-book instead of using his 
 chopsticks. They were my greatest difficulty, but I 
 managed to secure a tolerable amount of food with 
 the two-pronged fork. An order to the attendants 
 produced the third course, which was more solid, 
 and consisted of forcemeat balls, little white things 
 like quenelles, floating in thin soup, pork, fish, 
 duck, a bowl of salad, and an excellent dish of 
 chicken, on which the " Times " fell hungrily. This 
 course was served in larger bowls. I ate of all but 
 the pig and sea slugs. Early in the affair, sams- 
 choo, the wine of the country, made from rice, was 
 handed round warm ; but I did not like it, so I kept 
 to tea. Excellent bread in small cakes, and of three 
 different kinds, was plentifully supplied. When we 
 had done with number 3, the first course was again 
 placed on the table. On the whole I made a capital 
 breakfast, though I thought the dishes insipid, and 
 I smoked my pipe afterwards with great content- 
 ment. The dinner was the exact counterpart of 
 the breakfast, except some more kinds of bread, 
 some very good puffs, and rice. I drank three or 
 four cups of samschoo, but can't say much for it. I 
 am very glad I have had a specimen of Chinese 
 feeding, as from the present state of our rela-
 
 Letters from China. 207 
 
 tions I do not expect to be asked out to dinner 
 again. 
 
 September 26th. A beautiful view this morning 
 of the hills to the westward behind Pekin, which 
 betokens rain. I rode to within two miles of Pekin. 
 I saw several interesting monuments, the prevail- 
 ing form being a flat squared slab of marble 
 sculptured and headed, with the double serpent on 
 both sides rising out of a tortoise's back. The 
 people appear to be returning to their homes, and 
 in one village, near which I burnt two camps and 
 destroyed a quantity of gunpowder on the 21st, I 
 was received quite cheerfully. The 2nd Division is 
 coming up and the heavy guns are expected, but 
 are at present stuck in the river somewhere near 
 Hosewoo. The river is unusually low this year, 
 which is a great hindrance to us. I confess I don't 
 see how it is to end, nor how we are to ascertain 
 when we have made a reliable treaty. The First 
 Commissioner at Tuiigchow was a cousin of the 
 Emperor and a man of the highest rank, and he yet 
 proved a greater liar and even more treacherous 
 and deceitful than the wretched old man Kweliang 
 whom they sent to Tiensin. 
 
 21th. Quite a change in the weather yester- 
 day. It looked and felt like rain all the morning, 
 and we all longed for a shower to lay the dust. 
 It did not come, and from what the country 
 people here say there is hardly any rain at this 
 season ; but to-day the air is quite sharp and refresh- 
 ing. Three days, commencing yesterday, were 
 given to the Chinese to hand over the prisoners in 
 their hands. Should they prove obstinate I conclude
 
 208 Days of a Soldiers Life. 
 
 we shall move on Pekin and destroy the Tartar 
 city. I believe the Chinese city is to be spared. I 
 begin to look on a winter in North China as in- 
 evitable, and though I had quite made up my mind 
 to get home I shall take things as they come, and 
 do the best I can to make myself comfortable. If I 
 had but some clothes and some good boots I should 
 bo all right, but my campaigning kit is getting 
 rather worn and my boots very thin in the soles. 
 
 28t/i. This is the very strangest climate I was 
 ever in, it changes about every three hours. I 
 am getting very impatient for a move ; day after 
 day without books or much occupation is very 
 wearisome. The last report is that the Emperor 
 has abdicated, and has been succeeded by his 
 brother, who is of a warlike tendency, which is 
 likely to be gratified. We have got up more guns, 
 more ammunition, more infantry (if the General 
 will only use them), and more provisions. 
 
 29^. No move yet, but one must be near at 
 hand, and we can only move to Pekin, so I hope 
 my next will be dated from under its walls. The 
 sick and wounded (few in number) go down to- 
 day, which looks like clearing off encumbrances. 
 The cool weather appears to have set in. It rained 
 nearly all last night, and this morning the ther- 
 mometer is down to 66, I wish it would stay 
 there, as I do not want it any higher, and if it goes 
 lower I shall be badly off with my very small stock 
 of clothes, and those summer ones. As we can't 
 lay hands on a goose for dinner to-day we are 
 going to have an enormous white duck instead. 
 The only food I religiously avoid is pig I can't
 
 Letters from China. 209 
 
 stand China pig. I pulled out my last pound of 
 cigars to-day, but I have made a vow not to break 
 in on them till we reach Pekin, so I console myself 
 with the hope of a good cigar after dinner to- 
 morrow and put them back into my saddle-bags, 
 and fill a pipe of very indifferent tobacco as my 
 morning solace. 
 
 30th September. Church at 7 a.m. to-day. 
 What a handful we look to conquer so vast an 
 empire. We prayed for our companions in cap- 
 tivity, the term granted for their delivery having 
 expired. Poor fellows 1 I dread their fate will be a 
 severe one when we attack Pekin, which we are 
 now pledged to do. We have received six per- 
 suaders in the shape of three large guns and three 
 large mortars, which will I hope before long be 
 in full play on the walls of the doomed city. The 
 brutes have two or three French officers and five 
 or six French soldiers in their hands, and have 
 threatened to hang them if the French advance 
 another step. The French will lay Pekin in ashes 
 if this threat is carried out. The worst is I do not 
 see where the war is to end, or with whom we are 
 to treat, as the peace and war parties mutually 
 ignore each other's proceedings. 
 
 1st October. About a mile from here there is 
 a paved road, which reaches from Tungchow to 
 Pekin, and which crosses the canal which bounds 
 our camp by a very wide stone bridge ornamented 
 with griffins at each end, and with sitting figures 
 of dogs and monsters along the sides. There is one 
 between the suburb and walled town at Chankiawan 
 of similar construction.
 
 2io Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 4ith October. The whole army is across the 
 canal, and established for to-day within five miles 
 of Pekin. We are in an almost new farmhouse. 
 When I saw it yesterday morning there were two 
 untouched graves in the courtyard, but when I 
 came back in the afternoon one grave was broken 
 open, the coffin lid taken off, and the dried-up 
 mummy of a Chinaman dressed in his best clothes 
 exposed to view. The other grave had been begun 
 on. All this is done by our followers, who are the 
 curse of the army, as we have so many Indian 
 troops, besides a corps of Chinese coolies, who are 
 the worst thieves, and commit every outrage on the 
 Northern Chinese, whom they hate. We were 
 to have attacked to-day, but the move was put 
 off late last night, I believe because the French 
 have not received all their ammunition. We have 
 four 8-inch guns and three mortars up, and are 
 in all respects pretty ready. I hope one more 
 fight will bring them to their senses. The weather 
 is very trying, nights and mornings very cold, 
 and the sun very hot by day just the weather for 
 fever. If I had but my small portmanteau from 
 the ship I should be all right, but my clothes are so 
 thin that I feel the cold very much. I fear our 
 prisoners have not been well treated, as one of 
 them managed to slip in a Hindostani sentence 
 after his signature to a Chinese letter to the effect 
 that he had signed under compulsion. The trap 
 laid for us at Chan Kiawan was divulged before 
 we left Hosewoo, and the information scouted by 
 the diplomatic people. I had this from the inter-
 
 Letters from China. 211 
 
 preter who gave the information procured from a 
 Chinese to one of Lord Elgin's secretaries. 
 
 llth October, Camp near Pekin. I have nothing 
 particular to record of the march towards Pekin, 
 except that as I was reconnoitring with a squadron 
 on the front and flank of the advance I fell in with 
 an outpost of Tartars in a village ; sent one troop 
 to turn their flank while I moved the other along 
 their front, and in doing so caught sight of their 
 camp. The whole party took themselves off in 
 the greatest possible hurry, with an exchange of 
 three harmless shots. On the following day the 
 whole army took up a position near the north- 
 eastern angle of the city wail, and at about 
 11 o'clock advanced to feel for the Tartar army. 
 The cavalry were detached to the right, and 
 became entirely separated from the army. After 
 marching and countermarching till dark we 
 bivouacked near the French army and about a 
 mile from the Summer Palace. Early next morning 
 I went there with the Brigadier, and found the 
 French in full possession and busily employed in 
 picking up everything that was portable. I never 
 saw such clever thieves, and the quantity the officers 
 stowed away under the eyes of their General 
 (who was vigorously protesting to us his having 
 forbidden all looting) was quite a marvel. Soon 
 after we had had a most welcome breakfast with 
 General de Montauban, we returned to the palace, 
 when Sir Hope Grant arrived, and some attempt 
 was made to divide the property remaining. I 
 was appointed one of the commissioners, and 1 
 
 p 2
 
 2 1 2 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 never had such a task. For one man the French 
 commissioners turned out, they let in six, and after 
 struggling through that afternoon and half the 
 next next day, we gave it up as a hopeless case, 
 and carried off what we had collected. The palace 
 itself was well worth seeing, consisting of large 
 halls, courts, audience chambers, and the private 
 apartments of the Emperor. These last, though 
 small, were most luxuriously fitted up, and the 
 whole was crowded with porcelain, ornaments in 
 jade, clocks, carved furniture, and such stores of 
 clothes, silks, sets of china, furs, worked articles, 
 and ornaments of every description, that the rooms 
 were more like a fancy bazaar than anything else. 
 The buildings were all in good preservation and 
 newly painted, and all the furniture was arranged 
 with the greatest neatness. The gardens or rather 
 park appeared of immense extent, with rockwork, 
 lakes, bridges, and paved walks, all in the most 
 approved Chinese style, and the whole was more 
 like a scene in an extravaganza than anything in 
 real life. It has now been completely sacked, and 
 had we known then what we now do would have 
 been burnt. We found in it eleven or twelve 
 horses of those missing from Tungchow, the pouch 
 belt of the officer of Fane's Horse who accom- 
 panied me there, an English prayer-book, some 
 French epaulets, some saddlery, and other signs 
 of the missing party. Since my arrival here I 
 have been unceasingly employed in arranging the 
 prize sale and sorting the bullion for distribution. 
 The whole will not exceed thirty five thousand 
 pounds, and as we are to spare Pekin we have
 
 Letters from China. 213 
 
 nothing further to expect. Except the hard cash 
 which my prize agency will bring me I have 
 secured nothing, as I could not loot, and the 
 articles at the sale fetched such ridiculous prices 
 that I preferred keeping my money to buy presents 
 elsewhere. I have, however, a capital fur coat, 
 honestly paid for, in which I wrap my ill-clothed 
 body, and a few small pieces of jade, for which 
 I gave a few dollars, as a specimen of the articles 
 which are in such demand among the Chinese. 
 How the officers are going to carry what they have 
 bought I cannot conceive. As for me, I can hardly 
 carry my scanty stock of clothes, so I must bring 
 presents from Hong Kong. Nine prisoners have 
 come in, eio-ht Sikhs , and one Frenchman, besides 
 
 ' . C ^afh '. 
 
 Mr. ParkeSj Mr. -Locke, M. d'Esterre, one Sikh, and 
 one Frenchman, previously given up. We hear 
 there are two more Sikhs to come, and eighteen 
 dead bodies, leaving two or three unaccounted for. 
 They have not died, they have been murdered by 
 the most horrible ill-treatment. They were bound 
 in the most painful manner, so that the bonds cut 
 into the flesh, and with their hands tied to their 
 heels behind them : starved, kept without water, 
 beaten, and driven through the country like cattle 
 for sale. And we spare Pekin ! ! ! The dead bodies 
 have not yet arrived, and I doubt that they ever 
 will. Thank God, enough have returned to tell 
 the fearful tale of their sufferings and endurance. 
 All the European companions of my march to 
 Tungchow appear to have died. Poor Anderson, 
 one of the best officers I have ever met, died after 
 four days' delirium on the eighth or ninth day of
 
 214 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 captivity. Mr. de Norman endured another week. 
 Of the fate of Captain Brabazon and Mr. Bowl by 
 and of three French officers we as yet know nothing 
 quite certain. I now know how wisely I took my 
 resolution to go through at the time I broke out, 
 and I thank God for having inspired me to do so, 
 and thus to save the lives of my companions. Had 
 others thought as I did from the first, this fearful 
 suffering might have been avoided. Yesterday at 
 noon we took possession of the An Ting gate of 
 Pekin and planted the English colours on the wall ; 
 as there are about a dozen more gates it is a mere 
 empty demonstration, and I hear from our pickets 
 that men and horses were pouring out of the other 
 gates all last night with much noise. The Chinese 
 are quite clever enough to take every one whose 
 capture would be of value out of harm's way. We 
 are encamped about a mile from the wall?, of which 
 we can see nothing till quite close, and the greater 
 part of the army is housed in a deserted town 
 empty of all save dogs, cats, and Chinese of the 
 lowest class. I have a small house to myself, and 
 am tolerably comfortable bodily, in mind disgusted, 
 and weary of such a war. "We are all looking 
 forward to a winter at Tiensin, where I suppose 
 we shall proceed in another week before the weather 
 becomes too cold for marching. The nights even 
 now are bitterly cold, and the sun very hot by day, 
 a change which is fast running up the list of fever 
 patients. For two days we had a strong wind from 
 the hills, as trying weather as I ever endured. 
 3 p.m. Two more of the Sikhs have come in with 
 the same tale and signs of horrible ill-usage. Mr.
 
 Letters from China. 215 
 
 Bowlby is dead, and one of these men has brought 
 in his boots and socks with his name on them. 
 The French intendant who was missing also died 
 while in company with these men in prison. 
 
 1.5th October. I have been into Pekin yesterday 
 afternoon. I rode to the gate in our occupation, 
 and from thence on to the wall, which is about 
 fifty feet broad at the top. Before and under me 
 lay the Tartar city, a mass of low buildings and 
 clouds of dust. There are few prominent buildings, 
 but the city does not seem to have fallen into the 
 same state of disrepair as the rest of the empire. 
 Immediately in front of the gate is a broad street, 
 with shops on each side, all now closed, and close 
 to the limits defined by our sentries stand a crowd 
 of gaping Chinese. In the distance appears a 
 mound supposed to be artificial, with three pagodas 
 on it, and near this is supposed to be the site of the 
 Emperor's palace. Why we dawdle at the gate I 
 cannot understand, with the bodies of our murdered 
 companions under our eyes, we treat this govern- 
 ment as if we were intruders. A change towards 
 winter last night we had rain, and this morning 
 on getting up I found the distant hills covered with 
 snow. 
 
 October 17th. I am writing to the air of the 
 " Dead March," as practised by a neighbouring 
 band for the funeral of our poor murdered fellow- 
 countrymen, whose remains we are going to carry 
 to the Russian burial ground at 12 to-day. I have 
 heard this morning that the Cavalry Brigade is to be 
 broken up, so that I may now look forward to a 
 speedy dismissal, as my office will cease. As there
 
 216 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 will be no more fighting, my only object in remain- 
 ing would be the high pay ; but I would rather 
 return to England, and I hope not to be obliged 
 to return to India at all. 
 
 October 20th. We buried our poor fellows in 
 the Russian cemetery on the 17th. Nothing could 
 have been more kindly arranged. They had 
 Russian attendants on the Ambassador as sentries 
 at the gate, two officers of the Embassy to receive 
 the cortege, and their priest in full canonicals all 
 most kind, and worthy of our sincere gratitude. 
 Nearly every officer in the force attended, and a 
 very large number of French officers. It was a 
 bitter day, with a furious wind from the mountains. 
 On the 18th the 1st Division and the greater part 
 of the Cavalry Brigade started at 8 a.m. to burn 
 the Emperor's summer palaces. The cruel and 
 treacherous treatment of our prisoners demanded 
 a blow struck personally at the head of this 
 foul government, and it was determined to 
 leave such a mark on the property of the 
 dynasty as would prevent its ever forgetting 
 our visit to Pekin. It was a lovely day, though 
 rather cold, and we had a pleasant ride to the 
 Summer Palace, where half an hour sufficed to 
 quarter our force for the night and deposit our 
 baggage. We found the whole of the Emperor's 
 private apartments had been already burnt, but 
 there was plenty remaining in that direction for 
 the infantry ; so leaving them to burn all outlying 
 buildings, General Michel started with four or five 
 squadrons of cavalry towards the more distant 
 palaces. About a mile on we found another palace
 
 Letters from China. 2 1 7 
 
 at the bottom of a hill which was also covered with 
 buildings. Leaving a squadron to destroy this place 
 we pushed on to the other side of the hill and 
 mounted to the top, to which there were steps the 
 whole way. This was not so much a palace as a 
 series of temples, all imperial, of enormous size, and 
 reaching tier above tier from the base of the hill to 
 the summit, which was crowned with a stone 
 temple entirely covered outside with figures in 
 niches of yellow porcelain. Every building was 
 roofed with green and yellow tiles, and ornamented 
 along the ridge and at the eaves with porcelain 
 figures, while the whole ascent was a mass of arti- 
 ficial rockwork. On the top what a view burst on 
 us. Pekin and the whole surrounding country, with 
 its palaces, lakes, towns, and villages, lay at our 
 feet, the whole backed to the north and west by 
 range upon range of hills, bleak and bare, but 
 wonderfully broken and picturesque in form. I 
 have seldom looked over a finer country, as the 
 whole plain is well wooded and covered with culti- 
 vation. At the top we met a party from the 
 squadron left on the other side, and had hardly 
 reached where the troops were halted when smoke 
 burst out from the topmost buildings. We left 
 another squadron to burn our side and pushed on 
 with our diminished force to a pleasure garden 
 about two miles nearer to the hills. As we turned 
 the corner of the hill the highest pavilion burst into 
 flames, and after blazing furiously for about twenty 
 minutes the whole fell in with a crash that could 
 be heard for miles. At our farthest point we found 
 a pleasure garden with an imperial hall of audience
 
 218 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 at the entrance, a lake with an island and pleasure 
 house in the middle, round it pleasure houses and 
 small temples, and the hill at the back surmounted 
 by a seven -storied pagoda. A hasty survey settled 
 the plan of operations, and in half an hour every 
 house was in flames. I sat on a stone by the lake 
 (having been burnt out of a position which I had 
 taken up on the Emperor's garden chair), smoked 
 my cigar, and mused on the whole business. I 
 thoroughly approve of the whole proceeding. We 
 have carefully abstained from wilful injury to the 
 poor, but I would burn every government building 
 and the house of every known mandarin in the 
 country, and if it were not for the General's 
 promise I would burn the whole Tartar quarter 
 of Pekin, imperial palace, and all public buildings, 
 sparing the Chinese city. I did not get back 
 to our quarters till nearly dark, and then had 
 to post our pickets. We had tolerably good 
 quarters for the night in an imperial temple, which 
 accommodated 1.50 of the 1st Dragoon Guards and 
 ourselves. Having slept very comfortably and had 
 a good breakfast, I started at 8.30 to return to 
 Pekin, having previously seen our lodging well 
 in flames. One regiment of infantry, with three 
 squadrons of cavalry and some guns, had gone off 
 at 8 to burn a palace in the Emperor's deer park, 
 about four miles off, while two other regiments 
 were busily employed in finishing the destruction 
 of the Summer Palace itself and its environs. I 
 returned to Pekin with the 1st Dragoon Guards, 
 as I had work at home. On the road I visited a 
 huge monastery (which would hold one brigade)
 
 Letters from China. 219 
 
 to inspect a large bell which I had heard of. 
 It certainly was worth the trouble. From rough 
 measurements we made it out to be about thirteen 
 feet high and about ten feet in diameter at the 
 bottom, apparently of excellent metal, and covered 
 inside and out with inscriptions. The tone was very 
 good, and considering the trouble there has been 
 in casting Big Ben, it is a pity we cannot carry it 
 away with us for the clock tower at Westminster. 
 If certain terms which have been proposed are not 
 acceded to to-day, we enter Pekin and take pos- 
 session of the palace ; if further terms are not 
 acceded to on the 23rd we burn the palace ; and 
 I most cordially hope we shall do so. 
 
 October 21st. Our move into the town is 
 countermanded, and the cry now is Peace. I hear 
 that a treaty is to be signed, or at any rate agreed 
 to, but of what nature is as yet unknown. It is 
 so cold a regular winter's day without a ray of 
 sun. The thought of home is the only thing that 
 keeps me warm. The army is to be broken up 
 next month, and four or five regiments of infantry 
 are said to be under orders for home. Some treaty 
 has been agreed on, and Lord Elgin takes up his 
 residence in the Tartar city on Tuesday or Wed- 
 nesday. I conclude therefore we shall ride into 
 Pekin. We are not to leave for a fortnight, and 
 the army will then go down and embark at once, at 
 least so say the reports of to-day. There was ice 
 last night in the yard of my house, and my native 
 servants looked like ghosts when I first saw them 
 this morning. My chief occupation lately has been 
 paying out prize money, an amusement which will
 
 220 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 be rewarded by about three hundred and fifty 
 pounds as my share as prize agent. 
 
 23rd October. Two days ago we thought it 
 was all peace. Yesterday morning, on the infor- 
 mation of some Chinese Christians, a patrol was 
 sent out, and within five miles discovered two large 
 camps of Tartars close to the walls of the Chinese 
 city, and which are said to contain Sam Collinson's 
 army. Here we have been in fancied security, 
 scouring the country, burning palaces, and talking 
 peace with somebody (I can't make out with whom 
 we are negotiating), while these people are collect- 
 ing another army, most probably with the intention 
 of attacking us on the way to Tiensin. If the 
 situation were not so serious it would be highly 
 ludicrous. 
 
 24<th October. The reconnaissance of the 22nd 
 appears to have been satisfactory, as the whole 
 dignity of the camp, civil and military, with an 
 escort of 500 men and a division of infantry at 
 their back, has gone into Pekin to sign a treaty. 
 As T have no fine clothes I have remained at home 
 with the brigade of cavalry saddled up in case 
 of treachery. It is a lovely day, St. Martin's 
 summer, and I only hope we may have such 
 weather for our march down country. The cold 
 has really been very sharp, and last night I started 
 the stove under my bedplace, which was most 
 comfortable ; and though I have some fear of being 
 asphyxiated. I intend to continue the practice. A 
 Russian report tells us that the two hitherto un- 
 accounted-for prisoners were beheaded during the
 
 Letters from China. 221 
 
 action of the 21st ; they were Captain Brabazon, 
 R.A., and a French abbe named Duluc. 
 
 October 25th. The treaty was signed and 
 sealed yesterday in Pekin. Every point of impor- 
 tance on the line of procession was seized by our 
 troops, and an escort of 500 men accompanied 
 Lord Elgin to the place of conference very 
 necessary precautions with these treacherous brutes. 
 The least dignified part of the aifair was that 
 Lord Elgin sat for his photograph while signing, 
 after which the Chinese envoy was requested to do 
 the same. He was Kung, the Emperor's brother. 
 I believe when the box was introduced they all 
 thought we had brought an infernal machine to 
 blow them up. 
 
 26tb. Lord Elgin has now taken up his 
 residence in Pekin. I have been riding through 
 the Tartar and Chinese cities, and to a Lama 
 Temple, supposed to be very fine. To-morrow 
 I go on patrol beyond the Summer Palace, and I 
 am to live in the Lama Temple. About the 
 7th November we inarch, and the sooner we do so 
 the better. Katow is to be our first halt, then 
 Yangtsum, Tiensin. I have sent in my application 
 for leave, so I hope as soon as the embarkation 
 is over I may take a passage to Hong Kong, and 
 from thence home.
 
 222 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 On returning from China, Colonel Walker was 
 in liis former post of Assistant- Quartermaster at 
 Shorncliffe, under General Dalzell, and in 1865 
 was appointed Military Attache at Berlin. He also 
 served in the campaign of 1866 in Bohemia and 
 Moravia as British Military Commissioner at the 
 Head Quarters of the Second Prussian Army under 
 H.R.H. the Crown Prince, and was present at the 
 battles of Nacbod and Koniggratz (Medal). The 
 Second Class of the Red Eagle with swords offered 
 to him by the King of Prussia he was prevented 
 from accepting by existing regulations, but having 
 received permission to accept and wear the 1866 
 Medal it was forwarded to him directly by the 
 King of Prussia, accompanied by an autograph 
 letter from his Majesty. [Ed.]
 
 LETTERS FROM BOHEMIA AND THE 
 WAR OF 1866. 
 
 Frankenstein, June 23rd, 1866. I had a capital 
 journey, but the train with the horses was so late at 
 Leignitz that I was obliged to leave Stockwell there 
 and start alone. As soon as I arrived here I got 
 a carriage, drove to the hotel, made acquaintance 
 with the Commandant, and arranged that if I found 
 it inconvenient to stay the night in Carmenz I 
 could have a room here. I then drove over to 
 Carmenz, and arrived just half an hour before the 
 Crown Prince, so that I was able to hand him his 
 letters before he dismounted. He received me 
 most warmly and kindly, as did all his staff, and I 
 feel quite sure that as far as they are concerned 
 my campaign will be a pleasant one. General von 
 Blumenthal was very friendly, and the Quarter- 
 master-General is an old acquaintance from Merse- 
 burg. I remained to breakfast with the Crown 
 Prince, and afterwards drove back to Frankenstein 
 to look after the horses. They arrived quite safely 
 soon after 4 o'clock, and are now a mile or more on 
 the road to Carmenz ; but I am so tired that I am 
 going to sleep here, and drive over before breakfast
 
 224 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 to-morrow. The beasts seem very well after the 
 journey, and your demon gave a kick when he 
 came out of the box that nearly sent old Joseph 
 up to the clouds. I have already lightened my 
 baggage by sending back the cocked hat, as I 
 found it would be only a useless burden. There 
 was a small fight this morning, a very small one, but 
 it cost the Austrians ten or twelve men. A telegram 
 arrived while we were at breakfast to say that the 
 Austrians were crossing the frontier by Mittlewald 
 and moving on Habelschwerdt, but I don't think 
 the movement of any importance, as they would 
 run their noses on the fortress of Grlatz. General 
 von Blumenthal did not think there would be any- 
 thing of importance till the end of the month. Till 
 I passed Konigzelt I saw no movement of troops 
 whatever, but round here everything is in motion. 
 I have tumbled on several friends already. Prince 
 August of Wurtemburg is in the next hotel, and I 
 also saw Prince Auton Radzewill for a moment as 
 I was going for the horses. 
 
 Carmenz, June %ktli. I came over here early 
 this morning, and as I came after the quarters were 
 allotted I am not in the castle, but in the steward's 
 house, close to the horses, and quite quiet. I have 
 a capital room, looking on to the mountains, very 
 clean, and such civil people, whose great grief seems 
 to be that I want so little. I went to church this 
 morning at the castle, and since breakfast at 12 
 have been quiet in my room, writing letters, and 
 repacking my kit, so that I need not open all my 
 bags to get what I want. The horses are very well, 
 but I had nothing for them when I went to the
 
 Letters from Bohemia and the War of 1866. 225 
 
 stable, which was a great grievance. We move 
 somewhere to-morrow, but I ask no questions, and 
 do not trouble myself with the future. The alarm 
 of yesterday reduced itself to very small dimensions, 
 but the skirmish was a true story, and occurred on 
 the frontier near Niesse. It does seem so strange 
 to be at the old work, with nothing to do, and with 
 other people than our own. Prince Pless is here, 
 also the eldest Hoheiizollern, and I hear the Duke 
 of Coburg is expected to-morrow. 
 
 25t/i June. To-morrow we enter Bohemia. I am 
 very well and remarkably jolly ; a pleasanter party 
 I never wish to serve with. We had a furious night 
 last night, but no rain to-day. The Crown Prince 
 made me ride with him on the march from Wartha, 
 where he overtook us, and also made me sit by him 
 at breakfast. The country is lovely. We are at 
 Eckersdorf, a village belonging to Count Magin, 
 about a German mile west of Glatz a curious 
 Schloss, and some rooms handsomely furnished. 
 The horses are all well; Stockwell seems very 
 happy. We hear the Austrians have about 36,000 
 men in front, and the Prince hopes to attack them 
 in such force (the guard 1st and 5th Army Corps) 
 as to make success pretty certain. I have just had 
 a visit from the lloman Catholic priest, who insisted 
 on taking me home with him, where I had great 
 difficulty in getting off with three glasses of wine, 
 and just before dinner too. 
 
 27^/i June. 22 battalions, 90 guns, 3 Prussian 
 cavalry regiments, against 28 battalions, 72 guns, and 
 4 regiments Austrian, in front of Nachod. About 
 1,400 prisoners. I am half dead with hunger.
 
 226 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 28th June. I have only time to write a scrap to 
 say that I am very well, and ran about as much 
 risk yesterday as if I had been at an archery 
 meeting. I don't really call it a battle, but a 
 rencontre, as both sides were equally surprised. 
 The Austrians made horrid faults, left a superb 
 position unoccupied, and fought badly, being totally 
 unable to face the murderous fire of the Ziindriadel. 
 The heat was great, the men were much exhausted, 
 as indeed was everyone after 14 hours' continuous 
 work and excitement. Time is short, very few 
 Prussian officers killed, a good many wounded, 
 particularly cavalry. Lancer is most flourishing. 
 I send you a cornflower picked on the field of 
 battle. The Prince also sent one to the Crown 
 Princess. 
 
 Braunau, 28th June. We have occupied a very 
 important position in Bohemia without the slightest 
 resistance. I started with Stockwell at 6.30, and 
 we had a charning ride to Oberstein, where the 
 Prince overtook us, after which it was helter- 
 skelter for the rest of the day. We rode through 
 Braunau (the first Austrian town) amidst the cheers 
 of the guard, whom we overtook on the road. I 
 followed the Prince about an hour beyond Braunau, 
 when finding that the staff were all dropping 
 quietly back, I also turned my horse and rode 
 back to Braunau, where I am now quartered at 
 the entrance of the town, in the house of a dyer. 
 The horses are capitally put up, and we are all 
 most civilly treated. I rode your Angel to Steine. 
 He is as quiet as a lamb, and I expect to bring him 
 back wonderfully improved. The big horse is not
 
 Letters from Bohemia and the War 0/1866. 227 
 
 an agreeable beast, as he pulls furiously, and very 
 fretful, but still a thriving animal. This is a town 
 of about 4,000 inhabitants, with a very fine cloister, 
 which I must go and see if I have time before 
 dinner. The good man with whom I am 
 quartered has just lost his wife, and I see a 
 poor little motherless baby now under my win- 
 dow. I shall not write to you to-morrow unless 
 we have a fight; our chief difficulties are now 
 before us. As far as I can learn we shall find 
 no considerable force till near Koniggratz, by 
 which time I hope] thai our right flank will touch 
 Prince Frederick Carl's left, and we shall have 
 200,000 men in position. The army is in good 
 spirits and wonderfully healthy. 
 
 Kortolitz, 28th June. Another great success. 
 Fresh Austrian troops (the 8th and 4th Army 
 Corps) attacked the 5th Corps (General Steinmetz) 
 at the position before Nachod. They have been 
 repulsed with great loss, and we have since 
 2 o'clock watched the pursuit towards Joseph- 
 stadt. The Guard had also a fight near Eypel 
 this morning, apparently with the rearguard of 
 Gablenz's Corps, and drove them back. So far it 
 goes well ; we go on to Eypel to-night. 4.15 p.m. 
 When we arrived here early this morning, we 
 found the Guard du Corps and the Guard Cuirassier 
 with a battery of Horse Artillery. The Prince at 
 once despatched them to reinforce the right flank 
 of the 5th Corps, which they appear to have done 
 just at the right moment. The pursuit took 
 place towards Skalitz, and I can see them now 
 firing on the still retreating enemy. Skalitz lies 
 
 2Q
 
 228 Days of a Soldiers Life. 
 
 between Nacliod and Josephstadt. The pursuit is 
 still going on ; we are sitting watching the blowing 
 up a small railway bridge. 
 
 Eypel, 11 p.m , June 2Sth. The Austrian Corps 
 Gablenz having yesterday driven back the 1st 
 Corps, was attacked this morning about noon by 
 the Guard, and absolutely destroyed. 2,000 lie 
 killed and wounded on the field by Trautenau, 
 and nine guns are the trophies. The Guard fought 
 like gentlemen. We are sleeping here in the 
 straw but have had a good dinner. 1 like the 
 Crown Prince better every hour. Sfcockwell and 
 the pet Lancer are well. The Kaiser Franz 
 regiment suffered terribly, the 2nd Battalion 
 fearfully cut up. I wrote to you yesterday from 
 Kortolitz, where I saw another victory. 
 
 June 30//, Prausnitz. The Archduke Leopold 
 commanded the force actually engaged on the 
 28th. A bundle of orders have been brought in 
 to-day, from which it appears that on the 27th 
 Bamming confessed himself beaten and begged 
 reinforcements, to which Benedek replied by 
 sending two fresh corps minus one brigade to 
 meet General Steinmetz, placing the beaten 
 corps of the day before in reserve. So on that 
 day the greater part of three corps were opposed 
 to old Steinmetz's hard-worked troops of the day 
 before. Amongst these papers was also a litho- 
 graphed proclamation of Benedek's intended to 
 be issued on entering Prussia, containing the 
 words, " Now that a great part of our army 
 stands on Prussian soil." Rather premature, 
 was it not ? I hope this evening or to-morrow
 
 Letters from Bohemia and the War of 1866. 229 
 
 morning that the right of the Prince's army will 
 be in communication with Prince F. Carl's left. 
 Part of the second army is already across the 
 Elbe at or near Konigshof. I consider that in 
 the last five days I have assisted at one of the 
 most successful of military operations. I must 
 confess I was a little nervous at times, but the 
 concentration is now perfect. The Prussians 
 have fought manfully, but their weapon is so 
 superior to the Austrian that I should not fear 
 considerable odds, and I think it quite makes up 
 for the numerical superiority in cavalry. As 
 regards actual efficiency the Prussians have in 
 every encounter proved themselves quite equal to 
 the Austrians. The two most distinguished regi- 
 ments are the Lithuanian and the 8th Dragoons. 
 The Prince is charming, firm enough when 
 required, but so frank and modest that any one 
 can always find an opportunity of saying what 
 is desirable. The officers have behaved nobly, 
 and have always led their men in the most 
 gallant manner. The Prince also has no taste 
 for small interferences, and no jealousy of those 
 under him ; to me he is most kind. One of the 
 great deficiencies of the army is the want of 
 doctors, and consequently the length of time 
 which elapses before the first dressing of the 
 wounded. Gablenz's defeat was an awful smash, 
 and he appears to have had no knowledge what- 
 ever of his enemy. He neither knew that the 
 1st Corps had been so foolishly retired on Liebau, 
 nor did he know that the Guards were cornino- 
 
 o 
 
 up on his flank till they were into him. It was
 
 230 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 a regular doubling up, and nearly t|ie whole of 
 one brigade surrendered bodily. The country for 
 miles is covered with the debris of his army. 
 As to old Steinmetz, he is a thorough old bulldog. 
 All one aide-de-camp, sent to him for news, could 
 get out of him was, " I don't know the name of 
 the next village, but I know that I have carried 
 two positions and I mean to take a third." We 
 sat on a hill and watched him, and it was most 
 exciting to see how he pushed on the Archduke 
 from one position to another. There was a small 
 fight yesterday, in which the 12th Company of the 
 1st Foot Guards took a colour in hand-to-hand 
 fight from the Regiment Coronini. I hope the 
 Prussians will not get too uppish, but they certainly 
 have had astounding success in a short time. I 
 will write whenever I can, but in the saddle at 6 
 and out at 8 is not conducive to letter- writing. 
 
 June 30/, Prausnitz. The old priest here 
 having addressed the Prince on his arrival as 
 High General, and having been rather coldly 
 received, was brought back to the charge by his 
 assistant, and assured the Crown Prince how happy 
 he was to welcome the Crown Prince of Prussia 
 into his house, when the Prince gave him one of 
 his quaint looks, and said, " Do you mean it really?" 
 As we are short of provisions we are obliged to levy 
 contributions on the inhabitants, which I can't bear, 
 as the Prussians don't pay for these supplies as we 
 do. The house in which I am, was fairly plundered 
 out yesterday by some cavalry, but I believe this 
 sad addition to the burden which war brings on the 
 country will be for the future prevented. The
 
 Letters from Bohemia and the War of 1866. 231 
 
 people have stupidly nearly all run away. In 
 Trautenau they fired from the houses on the troops, 
 for which they have suffered accordingly, and the 
 town has now been turned into a hospital. There 
 are over 1,800 wounded in it from the two fights. 
 
 4<th July, Horonovics. I hope you had a scrap I 
 wrote yesterday from the field of battle in front of 
 the village of Chlum. Defeated, but not beaten, 
 Benedek was there in full retreat towards Pardowitz. 
 I am very well, but have had nothing but bread and 
 a bit of chocolate to eat since the day before yester- 
 day, and the only sleep I had last night was while 
 sitting on a bench. This is a filthy hole, and I 
 hope we shall not stay long in it. Carmonier 
 behaved liked an angel under a severe shower of 
 shot and shell. He cares neither for dead horses or 
 men, arid God knows we saw enough of both 
 yesterday. The meeting of Prince F. Carl and 
 the Crown Prince was affecting enough, but that of 
 the latter with the King still more so. I think we 
 all had tears in our eyes. The King gave him 
 the order of merit on the field, and well he has won 
 it. At the end of the battle the Crown Prince took 
 me by the hand and said, " Colonel Walker, I am 
 most thankful to have had your advice, which has 
 been most valuable to me." Thanks for your letter 
 just arrived and the most valuable news in it. 
 Bismarck never even greeted the Crown Prince 
 yesterday, but sat by while the King showered 
 kind words and embraces on him, looking as sulky 
 as a bear. Thanks to his own energy and clear 
 decision the Prince saved Prussia yesterday from 
 a serious defeat. Benedek little knew that the two
 
 232 Days of a Soldiers Life. 
 
 armies had been since Sunday in full communica- 
 tion. 
 
 Horonovics, 5th July. I wish you could see me 
 this morning. I have slept like a top in a clean 
 bed, have had a good wash and a capital breakfast, 
 with a cup of your nice tea, and am as well and 
 fresh as if I had never been tired out, as I really 
 was yesterday evening. After the battle of the 
 3rd, the Prince rode so long about the field, to 
 console the wounded and suffering, and we were 
 so long before we met the King, that it was 11 p.m. 
 before we got back here. I managed to get Can- 
 nonier into a barn, gave him water and hay, and 
 made the good beast as comfortable as I could. 
 My sole refreshment was a piece of sour bread 
 and a drink of nasty water, and a cheery heart 
 with I won't say how many pipes. I passed the 
 night, partly sitting, partly stretched on a hard 
 bench, and at 4 a.m. sallied out to look for more 
 hay. The first thing I stumbled upon was a dead 
 Austrian captain lying on a bed in the next house. 
 The baggage came up about 6 a.m., but my room 
 was too filthy, and, though I managed to write to 
 you and the ambassador, I did not get washed till 
 5 p.m. ! ! ! and then only in the absence of the 
 Prince, in the aide-de-camp's quarter. Fortunately, 
 a spare room turned up late in the afternoon, and I 
 have probably the best lodging in the village, the 
 room of an accountant, with a nice clean bed and 
 many other unexpected comforts. I am now writing 
 at his desk. I went off to bed soon after 9, and 
 slept till 7 ; then tea, potted meat, and some 
 marmalade, and I feel like a giant refreshed. We
 
 Letters from Bohemia and the War of 1866. 233 
 
 have nearly hourly accounts of the result of the 
 great battle, in which, including reserves, something 
 like 350,000 were engaged. For this number, the 
 losses in killed will prove proportionately small, 
 as the battle extended over a length of nearly 
 two German miles, and there was nowhere any- 
 
 ' * 
 
 tiling to compare with what I have before seen ; 
 in fact, a great artillery duel, with interludes of 
 infantry storming villages and cavalry fights in 
 the open. Still there has been a sad gap made 
 even in my small circle of acquaintances : Major 
 Erckert very badly wounded, Count Haesler, Guard 
 du Corps, dead, young Donnah badly wounded, 
 and many others. If, however, the Prussian losses 
 are severe, those of the Austrians, in wounded and 
 prisoners and abandoned material, are immense. 
 Benedek intended to separate the two armies, 
 destroy Prince F. Carl, arid then, with a victo- 
 rious army, fall on the second army. He thought, 
 no doubt, that the Elbe, behind which we lay, and 
 the hills we had to surmount, would prove such 
 severe obstacles, that we could not come up in 
 time; but he was fearfully deceived, not only by 
 the obstinacy with which the 1st Army fought, 
 but still more by the hard, earnest determination 
 with which the Crown Prince pushed forward to 
 his great end. He not only won the battle, but 
 saved his cousin from a probable defeat, and may 
 be the Crown of Prussia. It was an anxious time 
 as we rode along and saw the Austrian fire not only 
 increase but advance on the 1st Army. Benedek 
 committed two fearful faults ; first he put all his 
 eggs into one basket, secondly he failed to secure his
 
 234 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 right wing. Had he thrown up the earthworks on 
 the heights by this village, which he had made in a 
 useless position near his centre, we should have 
 lost an hour and a thousand men in carrying them, 
 and, though we must have beaten them in the end, 
 it would only have been late in the afternoon, and 
 with a crippling loss. As it was, with the exception 
 of slight checks when storming the villages, it was 
 for five hours a steady advance in his line of retreat, 
 and at 5.30 p.m. I was able to telegraph to England 
 from the village of Chlum a complete victory. The 
 pursuit continued till dark, but so stern was the 
 resistance of the Austrian artillery that the 6th 
 Corps (in pursuit) did little more than pick up the 
 pieces, and the cavalry did nothing. The fact is, 
 we made such tremendous marches (the cavalry 
 over twenty English miles) that nobody could 
 get up more than a trot. As I said before, the 
 honour rests with the Crown Prince. His cousin 
 and the 1st Army have fought nobly, both on 
 previous occasions and on the 3rd, when they 
 were overmatched, but the day was decided by 
 the Crown Prince and the Guards. I was with 
 him throughout, and I cannot say too much of his 
 good sense, clear judgment, and firm decision in 
 following out the idea which, with the prevision 
 of an accomplished general, he had grasped. We 
 knew nothing of the terrain beyond the informa- 
 tion of small maps, but having fixed on a certain 
 point as his thin end of the wedge he never 
 deviated from it, and drove the wedge home. 
 There are two trees and a tall cross, to which 
 the march of his columns was directed, which will
 
 Letters from Bohemia and the IVar of iS66. 235 
 
 long be famous in the records of the 2nd Army. 
 I will not describe the battlefield, which, however, 
 was nothing to what I have so often seen s but it 
 was bad enough. Sad work at best this trade of 
 ours. We hear hourly of fresh losses and fresh 
 captures ; some put the latter at 130 guns and 
 16,000 prisoners. My former estimate was far too 
 low ; now I say 100 guns and 12,000 prisoners. 
 Grablenz came yesterday with propositions of some 
 kind from Benedek, but I shall not know them till 
 I go to dinner at head-quarters. Lieutenant von 
 Wrangel, of the Hussars of the Guard, by dint of 
 sheer cool-headed daring, got yesterday into Konig- 
 gratz, had an interview with the Commandant, and 
 brought a demi -offer to capitulate. An officer sent 
 towards Josephstadt was fired on by the Austrians. 
 
 1 must say it was his own fault, as he had no flag, 
 beyond his pocket-handkerchief, and his trumpeter 
 was behind him. 
 
 Opatovics, 6th July. We marched yesterday at 
 
 2 over the battlefield of the 3rd, which was very 
 interesting, as I wished to study the ground once 
 more ; we then cut across country to meet the high 
 road from Koniggratz to Pardubitz, passing within 
 an English mile of the former place. The country 
 is lovely; a great rich plain with crops and with 
 sad signs of the total deroute of the Austrian army; 
 waggons, artillery, an entire pontoon train, and 
 stores of every description, lay on the roads and in 
 the fields and ditches. Koniggratz would not sur- 
 render, so was bombarded and set on fire yesterday 
 evening. This is a wretched hole, but Prince 
 Hohenzollern and I got a room with two beds, and
 
 236 Days of a Soldiers Life. 
 
 I slept like a top till 7 o'clock. On the high road 
 we met hundreds of country people returning to 
 their homes, with carts, and cattle, and babies, and 
 other household goods. They fly before their own 
 army, and return whenever the Prussians have taken 
 up the ground. Although the Prussians have been 
 obliged to make requisitions, this has been done 
 with as much humanity as possible, but the soldiers 
 cannot starve. Yesterday there was nothing to be 
 found, but the staff managed to pick up a few 
 bottles of red wine from a vivandiere, bought 
 some eggs, two geese, and some hens, so we 
 had at least a few mouthfuls apiece. Our 
 baggage did not arrive till very late, but we 
 hope to do better to-day, and have a few hours' 
 rest in Pardubitz. 
 
 July 1th, Chranstovics. The town of Pardubitz 
 produces nothing ; Prince Hohenzollern and I had 
 to pay two guldens for a small bottle of Hungarian 
 wine, and could get nothing else. Here we are in 
 clover ; this is a hunting palace of Prince Thurn 
 and Taxis, and we are most charmingly put up. I 
 have a room looking on the garden, with a clean 
 bed, writing table, sofa, arm-chair, and every con- 
 venience. I am in No. 88, so you may fancy the 
 number of rooms, which are all numbered. I have 
 also a magnificent view over the village and 
 adjacent rich country ; the distance from Pardubitz 
 about fourteen miles. We had a very wet ride ; 
 poor Lancer is very ill, but I hope he will improve 
 to-morrow ; indeed I wonder the horses are not all 
 dead. We gallop for miles, then stand in the rain 
 till they are chilled. The stables are either one
 
 Letters from Bohemia and the War of 1866. 237 
 
 degree worse than the open air or so hot as to be 
 like .Russian baths. Pardubitz is a curious old 
 town with some very singular alto-relievos on the 
 houses. It is the head-quarter of the Bohemian 
 Hunt Club ; but as the King joined us yesterday we 
 were not as well put up as we might have been. 
 The town is on the Elbe, the bridge over which the 
 retreating Austrians blew up, so we crossed on two 
 pontoon bridges. My quarter was with an apothe- 
 cary, who had served with the German Legion in 
 Turkey. Thanks to hard work we have got all 
 the military trains up to the army, and we rode to- 
 day clear of the turmoil. The Austrian army is 
 before us in the direction of Olmutz. If nobody 
 interferes we shall inarch on Vienna with over 
 200,000 men. The more I see of the Crown Prince 
 the more I like him ; he is become so manly and 
 self-reliant, and shows such good judgment, that I 
 hope much from his future career ; his is really a 
 fine character. I cannot say too much of his more 
 than kindness to me ; he not only treats me with 
 the most gracious courtesy, but with an open confi- 
 dence I can never forget. His few words on the 
 field of battle would have repaid me for any priva- 
 tions. I am also most happy with his staff, who 
 are as jolly a lot of good officers and companions 
 as could be met anywhere. The two generals 
 are two admirable officers, men very different in 
 character, but of the right stamp. General von 
 Blumenthal, the chief of the staff, is a charming per- 
 son, a gentleman and man of the world, for whom 
 I entertain the highest regard. I dare-say I shall 
 be able to write more to-morrow; at present I am
 
 238 Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 going to indulge in the luxury of forty winks 
 before dinner. 
 
 9th Jiily, LeitomiscJiel. A beastly hole, a true 
 specimen of Austrian misgovernment and neglect. 
 It is a much larger town than Hohenmauth, but the 
 quarters are much less comfortable, and there is 
 really hardly anything to be had in the whole town, 
 but there is a huge church and a castle of the most 
 pretentious description. The streets are a disgrace 
 to the nineteenth century, and the pavement beyond 
 description. I really cannot understand the enthu- 
 siasm for Austria, except from Irishmen ; how a 
 sober, progressive English public can have such 
 sympathy for a priest-ridden, neglectful govern- 
 ment like that of Austria I cannot understand. 
 The country is charming, and we had a very pretty 
 ride of two hours, from the half-way village of 
 Cerakure, where there is a magnificent position, 
 where the Austrians ought to have made a stand. 
 There seems an impression that we may have a fight 
 at Zwittau ; we hear of a cavalry skirmish there 
 yesterday, but nothing as yet of the results. The 
 chestnut and the mare are both only middling, the 
 big beast is pretty impudent to-day, but I often 
 wish for old Punch. However he is much better in 
 Berlin, where he at any rate is useful to your 
 mother. We are veiy badly off for forage, and 
 some of those who have been so imprudent as to 
 give their horses wheat have lost them. The horses 
 really have lived on straw and new hay, and I 
 wonder they hold ( out so well. We should do very 
 well if we were not overloaded with those who do 
 no work whatever, and only incommode such as
 
 Letters from Bohemia and the War of 1866. 239 
 
 have business to do with the army. Except a 
 battalion as escort to head-quarters, I have seen no 
 soldiers except straggling 1 parties since leaving 
 Pardubitz, as we are now behind the centre of the 
 army. I have just come back from a visit to the 
 castle, which has been very handsome a great 
 quadrangle with arched galleries, and frescoes on 
 the outer walls. It is now occupied by 150 Austrian 
 wounded, quite unfurnished, and presents a most 
 melancholy appearance. There I met old Wrangel, 
 who greeted nie from the window of his lodgings 
 in one of the side buildings. The castle formerly 
 belonged to Wallenstein, and was purchased about 
 eight years ago by Prince Tlmrm and Taxis. The 
 weather is most cheerless, cold and wet. I hope we 
 shall get into more cheerful quarters to-morrow, but 
 I am still uncertain in which direction we move I 
 believe in the direction of Olmiitz, while the 1st 
 Army press on Briinn. Only forwards say I, and 
 always forwards, till peace is concluded. The 
 mayor of the town has put out a very sensible 
 proclamation, calling on the townspeople to meet 
 the Prussians in the probable event of their coming 
 in a proper manner, and not to close their houses 
 and shops. They are, however, pretty well eaten 
 out by the hoards of hungry people who have 
 marched through since last Thursday, when the 
 beaten army made its appearance here, leaving 
 again on Friday the 6th, and all I could get was 
 a plate of soup and a bit of beef about as big as my 
 thumb ; but we are to dine at 7 to-day, instead of 9 
 or half-past. The surgeon who assisted at the 
 dressing of the wounds of young Prince Hohen-
 
 240 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 zollern is now sitting with his brother in the next 
 room, giving the details. The Prince dined with 
 us the previous evening at Konigshof, where I made 
 his acquaintance. Major Erckert, whom you know, 
 is badly wounded, but it is hoped he may recover. 
 Wonderful to say, none of the Crown Prince's staff 
 have yet been hit, though we have been well peppered 
 at times, but we keep him as much out of mischief 
 as we can. Too much hangs on his life to render 
 it wise for him to run needless risks. We made a 
 pretty dangerous ride with him one day, when wo 
 went within less than three miles of Joseph stadt. 
 We had no escort, and a squadron of hussars would 
 have made a nice bag of us if we had tumbled on 
 one. The Austrians appear to have had about 500 
 guns on the field on the 3rd, all of which I should 
 think came into play. The Prussians had more, but 
 a very large part of their artillery did not get up 
 in time to take part in the action. There was a 
 small skirmish yesterday, somewhere near Zwittau, 
 and a few hussars were knocked over, also a major 
 of the 5th Cuirassiers got a poke in the side, which 
 has obliged him to go to the rear, and he arrived 
 here to-day. This is about the most coherent letter 
 that I have been able to write since the beginning 
 of the campaign. In general I am so bustled that 
 I have hardly time to scrawl all I have to say. We 
 march at 9 to-morrow, a very long and fatiguing 
 march to Triibau, as the King's head-quarter is in 
 our way. I wish they were all in Berlin, and 
 would leave us alone to finish the business. The 
 5th Corps lost on the 27th, 28th, 29th, and 30th 
 June, killed and wounded, 130 officers and about
 
 Letters from Bohemia and the War of 1866. 24! 
 
 3,000 men. The 1st Corps lost at Trautenau, on 
 the 27th June, 60 officers and about 1,300 men. 
 The total losses of the two Prussian armies since the 
 beginning of the campaign are rated at 20,000 
 men. In Nachod on the 28th, 1,899 wounded, of 
 whom 424 were Prussian, and 1,475 Austrian, 
 amongst them 6 Prussian and 49 Austrian officers. 
 It is quite fair to reckon three or four wounded 
 Austrians to one Prussian ; it, however, has been 
 rated as high as six to one, such is the needle-gun. 
 Thank goodness that fox Gablenz was dismissed 
 with a flea in his ear, and we march on ; the King 
 would not even see him, and his proposals were 
 quite inadmissible. He offered nothing that the 
 Prussians could not take to-morrow, and asked an 
 army victorious and in full march to give a beaten 
 and dispirited army three days' rest. No, no, 
 onwards, and nothing short of peace. 
 
 Moravian Triibau, July \Qth. What do you 
 think of this for a pretty coinage it represents 
 twopence ? We have had a heavy march to-day 
 twenty-five English miles. I was glad to leave 
 Leitomischl ; the people (not in my lodging, but 
 generally) were beasts, and the fleas got into my 
 boots and teased me. About two-thirds of the way 
 we came to the first ridge near the frontier, and 
 had a lovely view looking into Moravia. How 
 Benedek allowed us to pass Triibau without a fight 
 I cannot conceive. It is the finest defensive position 
 I have yet seen, and I fully expect we shall be 
 attacked here to-morrow. For my part I should 
 march, tired as we all are, at 4 a.m. to-morrow and 
 attack him. I have such a charming room here, 
 
 B,
 
 242 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 quite alone on the ground floor, and perfectly 
 clean. The people also seem friendly, and Stock- 
 well is also to have a bed in the house. Both he 
 and Joseph look much done, and the poor old mare 
 has fallen away to nothing. Cannonier was so 
 impudent to-day that I was obliged to give him a 
 gallop to keep him quiet. We had a horrid march, 
 almost incessant rain, and mud a foot deep. We 
 have now left the watershed of the Elbe, and are 
 already close to the streams which flow into the 
 Danube. The people all speak German here, and 
 both they and their towns are a great improvement 
 on the Bohemian pigstyes. I had a walk after 
 dinner yesterday to the Kreuzberg behind the 
 town, which overlooks the road towards Olmiitz. 
 It is one of the Calvarys so common in .Roman 
 Catholic countries, with a representation of the 
 crucifixion in stone on the top of the hill, and 
 stations for prayer alongside the path. I have a 
 photograph of it for you. The view from the hill 
 is very pretty, looking over the town on one side, 
 and on the other into the hills between us and 
 Olmiitz. We are to remain here to-day, for which 
 I am most thankful, as Lancer was so bad yester- 
 day that I do not think I could have moved him 
 had we marched to-day. The old mare will also 
 be the better for a good rest. As for me, I am as 
 fresh as when I started, and am looking forward to 
 breakfasting with Prince Pless at 9 a.m. (on a game 
 pie he has just received from home), with the 
 keenest appreciation of my probable good break- 
 fast, and the old happy indifference whether we 
 fight to-morrow or not. Old Wrangel has just
 
 Letters from Bohemia and the War of 1866. 243 
 
 passed the window riding at the head of his own 
 regiment of cuirassiers. I should think the old 
 King would have a fit whenever he visits us. I 
 thought we and our fellows in the Crimea looked as 
 perfect ruffians as could well be, but the Prussian 
 soldiers beat them. The fact is, their uniform, like 
 our own, is so totally unsuited to hard, rough cam- 
 paigning, that nothing is worn in the same way as 
 in garrison. The French and Austrian uniforms, on 
 the contrary, are made practically for the purposes 
 for which they are intended, and always look 
 sightly because they are such as the men can wear 
 alike in peace or war. But ruffians the Prussian 
 soldiers are not ; ragamuffins would be a better 
 word for their present appearance. I never saw 
 such well-behaved, sober, patient fellows, and they 
 fight too. They have nearly all the virtues of our 
 army, and want many of their vices. I have 
 actually seen no drunkenness since I joined the 
 army. Stockwell says that he has seen one 
 drunken man. I have seen perhaps half a dozen 
 who were not sober. One sees little or no wran- 
 gling among themselves, but they are much lazier 
 than our men. They will march and fight and 
 endure hunger and thirst, but they won't smarten 
 themselves up even when they have the oppor- 
 tunity, and prefer dawdling about with a pipe 
 at the end of a march. The first thing an 
 Englishman does is to look for a bucket of cold 
 water and have a wash. The German looks for 
 some hot water to make himself some coffee. I 
 hear that diplomacy is at work, and that a con- 
 gress is spoken of at the head-quarters of the
 
 244 Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 Prussian army, which is to-day between Zwittau 
 and Briinn. 
 
 Trubau, 11th July, Only a hasty line to-day, as 
 I have been writing and copying ever since I got 
 up, and we dine at 5 instead of 9 as usual. I have 
 had a good sleep, a shave, a wash, my hair cut, and 
 am silting at work, with a plate of strawberries and 
 a glass of roses before me. It is the best lodging 
 except Chronstovics I have had since I left Berlin. 
 I have not been able to go and look at the view 
 near the town, but I have bought you some photo- 
 graphs. Poor Lancer is dreadfully knocked up, 
 the mare quite done too. I wrote to you yester- 
 day after we arrived here. No rain as yet to-day. 
 
 ~L2fh July. All your welcome packets safely re- 
 ceived. As I can't get my tobacco from England I 
 wish you would try and send me half a pound of 
 the best Latakia, I am at my last quarter of a 
 pound. We march to-morrow at 9 to a place near 
 Giebetsch. Beasts better. 
 
 Opatovics, ~L3th July. A most pleasant ride 
 through a lovely district, passing Kronau and 
 Satina, a broken hilly country, richly cultivated. 
 The pine woods smelt so nice, and old Cannonier 
 was so fresh and saucy, that I felt quite larky after 
 my two days' rest ; I was quite sorry to leave my 
 little room and friendly hosts at Triibau. I don't 
 suppose they had ever seen so much silver as the 
 double thaler I gave them for their care of me, 
 Stockwell, and my clothes. I not only had some 
 washing done, but had two loose buttons sewn on 
 my gloves, so I feel like a gentleman again. I had 
 a long ride and most earnest conversation to-dav
 
 Letters from Bohemia and the War of 1866. 245 
 
 with the Crown Prince on the future prospects of 
 Prussia. I cannot say how serious and admirable 
 a tone pervades his conversation, and I hope most 
 earnestly that God may grant him firmness to act 
 up to his convictions. I should think very seldom 
 have the heir to a throne, and a commoner Kke 
 myself, ever spoken so openly to each other as has 
 been the case not only on this, but on other occa- 
 sions, when he has allowed me to address him un- 
 reservedly. We march to-morrow to Konitz. This 
 is the hunting-box of a Count Herbestein, who has 
 also a fine place near Grlatz. I am sitting in a nice 
 little room (with a clean bed which promises well 
 for to-night) with the window open to the garden, 
 and the sound of a rippling stream in my ears. I 
 believe we occupy some other friend's (or enemy's) 
 house to-morrow at Konitz. We do not the least 
 damage, and I am sure that the owners must be 
 charmed that their houses afford rest to such tired 
 guests. The only injury we shall inflict on the 
 Count is to drink his beer, which is excellent. I 
 hear very little about cholera here, and I do not 
 think that it has taken any hold of the army. I 
 wrote to you, both yesterday and this morning, 
 before leaving Triibau. It is a horrid bore about 
 my tobacco, as I am very low indeed ; though I 
 have plenty of cigars, I prefer my pipe. Lancer 
 is quite merry to-day ; he was led on the march, 
 and began to eat the moment I tied him up. 
 
 Konitz, Moravia, l^th July. Fancy my horror 
 on mounting this morning to find Cannonier dead 
 lame ; the farrier had lamed him in shoeing. I had 
 to borrow a horse from one of the staff and leave
 
 246 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 him to come on with Stockwell, who had the nail 
 drawn out and brought him after me. But I am 
 really in a bad fix, as I have two sick horses, and the 
 mare is also pretty well done for. General Blu- 
 m en thai is to lend me a horse for to-morrow, and I 
 hope Cannon ter will be ready to carry me in the 
 next fight before Olmiitz. Fight I conclude they 
 will. How the army must have marched. Beaten 
 on Tuesday, the 3rd, they were here on Sunday, 
 the 8th, and left again on Monday, the 9th, for 
 Olmiitz. If we don't get peace I firmly believe 
 that the King and his advisers will get us into 
 trouble. Thanks to the firmness of General Blu- 
 menthal one grievous mistake has been avoided, 
 but they will make more. We shall have to fight 
 against great odds, but that will not matter. We 
 had a charming sejour at Opatovics, dined in the 
 garden, and I slept like a top in a clean bed, after 
 a most luxurious afternoon first ice-cold beer and 
 very good bread and butter in the brewery, then 
 letters written at an open window, and last, but not 
 least, a real good wash. Our march yesterday was 
 through a fearfully difficult country, long defiles, 
 with steep ascents and descents, fearfully hot, and a 
 dust like India. We passed an hour at midday 
 under the shade of a small wood, so as to let the 
 troops pass by us. Poor fellows ! they dropped by 
 degrees, reminding me of our few but painful 
 marches in the Crimea. I thought on our arrival 
 here of some of our horrid lodgings in Bohemia, 
 but was most agreeably disappointed, as I am 
 quartered with an agreeable companion in the house 
 of a maiden lady, whose little dwelling is a perfect
 
 Letters from Bohemia and the War of 1866. 247 
 
 picture of neatness and cleanliness. I only hope I 
 shall not leave her all the fleas which have lived 
 in my boots for the last week, for I am sure there 
 are none here. She has two nephews in the Austrian 
 army, and I am able to do her the little kindness of 
 asking after one of them, who has been missing 
 since the 3rd. There is fighting somewhere to-day, 
 as we heard the firing quite plainly after breakfast. 
 The tidy little maid is washing all my clothes, so I 
 shall start to-morrow with a clean stock, as I con- 
 sider our fate very doubtful after to-morrow, and 
 fully expect that Benedek will attack us in force. 
 I hear from my landlady that we shall be much 
 better quartered as we get on into the rich country 
 round Olmiitz. There is a wonderful difference 
 between Bohemia and Moravia; the former has 
 dirty slovenly towns, horrid un paved streets, and 
 an idle sluttish people ; here every one speaks Ger- 
 man, and not badly either. Stock well looks all the 
 better for a succession of dinner days. I got him 
 a good bed for the three nights we were at Triibau, 
 and here he also has that unusual luxury. There 
 is a most kindly cat here ; her kitten was most 
 anxious to pass the night in my room, an honour 
 which I entirely declined. We hear that Benedek 
 has gone southwards from Olmiitz, at any rate our 
 outposts were near Prerau last night. When we 
 have Briinn and Prerau we shall be able to totally 
 interrupt the Austrian communication; but I do not 
 like the present plan of campaign, which has led to 
 the separation of the two armies. The horses are 
 better to-day, but Cannonier is still a little tender 
 on his toes. There was some far-off firing this
 
 248 Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 morning; I conclude nothing of any great impor- 
 tance, or I should have heard more about it. 
 
 Prodlitz, ~L6th July. A. small fight yesterday. 
 The Prussians took 18 guns and 500 prisoners. 
 We are here in the Schloss of Countess Kalnocky, 
 quite in the country, and I am writing in a little 
 room looking on the gardens, with all the little 
 pictures on the wall, flowers in the vases, just as 
 the inhabitant has left it. She proves to be the 
 lady's maid to the Countess, and a very tidy room 
 she has. I have been obliged to drive to-day, as 
 our march was over twenty miles, and I wanted to 
 spare the horses another day. I hope they will be 
 fit to ride to-morrow. If you can get me a map of 
 Moravia and Bohemia, or of Moravia alone up to 
 Vienna, I wish you would send it, as I am over the 
 border of my map already. I parted quite sorrow- 
 fully this morning with my tidy little room. At 
 Konitz I had all my clothes washed, and feel quite 
 a swell. Sixteen of the guns taken yesterday were 
 by the 5th Cuirassiers, a splendid regiment. The 
 1st Cuirassiers lost five officers in a night attack on 
 Saturday a very stupid business. 
 
 Prodlitz, Vltli July. We have a rest day to-day. 
 I passed an hour yesterday in visiting the wounded 
 of the 14th and 15th July. The attack of the 1st 
 Cuirassiers was a stupid business. They lost three 
 officers killed and two wounded, eight men killed 
 
 and about thirteen wounded, in an affair thev ou^ht 
 
 ' ./ 
 
 to have let alone. The next day the 5th had a 
 spendid success. Three squadrons of the regiment 
 attacked two Austrian batteries of sixteen guns. 
 While two squadrons occupied them in front, the
 
 Letters from Bohemia and the War of 1866. 249 
 
 third moved by files across a narrow bridge, threw 
 out a division as skirmishers, formed, and fell into 
 the flank of the batteries, which they took all 
 standing, guns, men, and horses, and the best of it 
 was with scarcely any loss. Two more guns were 
 taken by the infantry, having been dismounted by 
 the Prussian fire; and we hear of fourteen more 
 having been taken further in advance, near Prerau, 
 and 250 more prisoners. We also learn that 
 Benedek was present on the field, as he was at 
 that time still in Olmiitz. I conclude we shall march 
 on now till we see the Archduke Albrecht across 
 our path. The horses are better, and I am going 
 to have a quiet ride on Lancer, but I think I shall 
 have to drive again to-morrow to save Cannonier. 
 The old mare was quite larky again yesterday. 
 Stockwell is quite well and takes the world philo- 
 sophically as I do. I paid a visit yesterday to 
 Countess Kalnocky at the village to which she 
 migrated, when the head-quarters arrived : I passed 
 half an hour with her, and was able, happily, to 
 give her news of one or two friends who are 
 prisoners, and to send her the assurance that her 
 sons were not engaged on the 15th. I have all 
 their names and regiments, so that in case of their 
 being taken prisoner you can seek them out in 
 Berlin. We dined at half-past 5, and after dinner 
 drove to a point about an English mile from the 
 village, from whence there is a wide view across 
 the open country towards Prerau and the Lesser 
 Carpathians. It was, however, cloudy, and we 
 made out the different points with much difficulty. 
 I rode Lancer yesterday. He was quite lively, but
 
 250 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 is still a little weak, and is dreadfully disfigured by 
 the blister on his throat. Cannonier is also better. 
 I shall ride him to-day. We march, at 2, but I 
 shall start at 12 with the baggage so as to go our 
 own pace. We have thirty English miles to ride, 
 so that we cannot expect to get in before dark. I 
 really cannot say much for the management of our 
 marches, which are not well arranged, and are 
 often much too long for the baggage. As we 
 passed through Prossnitz on Monday I managed to 
 buy a quarter of a pound of tobacco, but presented 
 it half an hour afterwards to an Austrian officer, a 
 prisoner, who had none, and I now anxiously look 
 for a supply from you or from England. 
 
 J : uly2~Lst, 'Eisgrub. We left Prb'dlitz in the middle 
 of the day on Wednesday. I started a little ahead 
 of the others, as I wished to ride quietly, and rode 
 gently across country till I reached the high road 
 about three miles from Prodlitz, and then jogged 
 on easily to a large village called Rausnitz, where 
 I rested the horses for a quarter of an hour, and 
 started again for Briinn, arriving there about 8 
 o'clock. The entry into the town was quite one 
 of the incidents of the war, as we rode through 
 the streets with eighteen captured Austrian guns, 
 which we overtook just by the first houses. It 
 was a much longer march than we anticipated, and 
 I was more tired than on any day since we left 
 Berlin, I had, however, a quiet night's rest in my 
 room in the great Stadthouse, where we were all 
 lodged, but the horses were so knocked up that I 
 agreed with Prince Pless to hire a carriage for a 
 day or two, and spare our poor beasts. I was quite
 
 Letters from Bohemia and the War of 1866. 251 
 
 glad to leave Briinn, though it seemed a nice town, 
 but I had no wants to supply after I had been shaved 
 and bought a razor strop. From Briinn we marched 
 to Gross Sellowitz, the seat of the Archduke Albrecht, 
 in the most violent thunderstorm I ever saw. It 
 lasted five hours, the rain falling in such torrents 
 that a horse was washed off the road and drowned. 
 I cannot say much for Gross Sellowitz, where we 
 only stayed the night, starting again at 11 yester- 
 day, and arriving about 3. It was again a heavy 
 day for the horses, who did not get in till quite 
 late : four and a half German miles over a bad 
 road. Even in England I have seldom seen a 
 more perfect place, though not in what we should 
 call perfect order. It is altogether one of the 
 finest country places I have ever seen. I have 
 a cosy little room to myself on the ground floor, 
 with a balcony in front, and, if we are to make a 
 halt, I should like to do so in such capital quarters. 
 The horses are also most comfortably put up, and 
 seem quite jolly to-day ; even Lancer seems a dif- 
 ferent animal. Whether Pott and Punch ever reach 
 me seems somewhat doubtful, as they ought to have 
 been here long ago if they came by rail. I shall 
 keep Pott a day or two when he turns up, and send 
 Lancer back with him. The Prince went yesterday 
 to the head-quarters, and only returned at 10 p.m. 
 My impression is that we are on the eve of peace, 
 but as he did not tell me what had taken place, 
 I asked him no questions. The King comes to 
 breakfast at 12, so that before I close this letter 
 1 may have some news to tell you. After break- 
 fast Prince Pless and I are going to drive to
 
 252 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 Felsburg, Prince Liechtenstein's hunting-box. He 
 is also the owner of Eisgrub. There are such 
 magnificent heads in all the halls and passages, 
 they quite make my mouth water. There are 
 also plenty of fallow deer in the parks, but, as 
 a neutral, I cannot shoot the Prince's deer. The 
 house is completely furnished, and most comfort- 
 ably so, and the Crown Prince's apartments on the 
 ground floor are the most charming suite of rooms 
 you can imagine. There is also a conservatory, 
 150 feet long, leading out of the rooms, in which I 
 believe we are to breakfast. 
 
 22nd July, Eisgrub. A five days' truce from 
 12 o'clock to-day will assuredly lead to peace, 
 and though I shall not leave the Crown Prince 
 so long as his staff holds together, I think you 
 may soon expect me in Berlin again, I tele- 
 graphed to the Ambassador last night, and am 
 now going over to head-quarters at Nicholsburg 
 to see the place and pick up news. No Punch. 
 I suppose the old beast will turn up some day ; 
 but Pott will see no battle unless the Austrians 
 are playing a treacherous game, which I do 
 not think. We are very comfortable here, and 
 I infinitely prefer the country to the town. 
 Prince Pless went home last night. He is 
 one of the pleasantest companions I ever travelled 
 with. 
 
 24<th July, HJisgrub. I am just going to drive 
 Mr. Landells, of the Illustrated London News, to 
 Feldsburg ; he seems a nice person, and says your 
 sketch was most successful. The prospects of 
 peace are immense ; I of course am on the peace
 
 Letters from Bohemia and the War of 1866. 253 
 
 side as usual. No Punch ; I begin to think he has 
 been annexed, which will be a considerable bore, 
 as you won't like being reduced to the old three- 
 legged mare. The other beasts stand together like 
 sheep and nibble each other's hides. Don't you 
 envy Mr. Landells going down the hills ? I am 
 taking the English huntsman some cigars and 
 newspapers. He has such nice children. 
 
 25th July. I have your welcome letter and the 
 map, but neither Punch nor the tobacco have yet 
 turned up. I have just come in from a long ride 
 with Mr. Landells through the deer park. Such 
 noble trees, particularly one immense oak, which 
 has been broken off about twenty feet from the 
 ground in the recent gale. On our return we 
 climbed the Moorish tower of 208 steps for the 
 superb view, but there was too much cloud on the 
 horizon for us to see Vienna. Yesterday was the 
 birthday of the Princess Charlotte. We all drank 
 her health with full honours. Eulenburg tele- 
 graphed it to the Crown Princess. 
 
 21th July. On waking this morning I heard a 
 voice outside my door which proved to be Pott. 
 The march must have been a very hard one. He 
 looks very thin, but old Punch is as fat as a pig. 
 Thanks for the tobacco ; the second batch also 
 arrived by post, and I have shared what you sent 
 me by Pott with Mr. Landells. I shall now keep 
 Pott and Punch here till I despatch the whole 
 family together to Berlin; I conclude that a few 
 days will decide my fate. The preliminaries of 
 peace were signed yesterday at Nicholsburg. The 
 army will go into quarters in Bohemia and Moravia
 
 254 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 till the conclusion of the peace, the term of the 
 armistice not being definitely fixed. 
 
 29lfi of July. I expect to start for Berlin on the 
 1st, 2nd, or 3rd, but it depends a good deal on the 
 Crown Prince, and also on the King's movements. 
 I hear that we are likely to move to Briinn in a 
 day or two, and that the King will probably review 
 the famous 5th Corps on the plain of Austerlitz, 
 which will be a sight that I must not miss. I may 
 travel with the Crown Prince to Berlin and be 
 present at the opening of the Chambers on the Gth, 
 but that of course must depend on circumstances. 
 I have heard a most interesting anecdote of the 
 great battle at some period just before our arrival. 
 The 1st Army was so hard pressed, as indeed we 
 saw from our point of advance, that the King 
 turned to Count Moltke and asked what arrange- 
 ments he had made in case of a reverse, to 
 which the General replied, " Majestat, das Schicksal 
 Preussens entscheidet sich heute hier, und der 
 Kronprinz Komtnt." (" Your Majesty, the fate of 
 Prussia decides itself to-day here, and the Crown 
 Prince comes." ) Mr. Landells has made two 
 drawings for the Illustrated London News, one 
 of the moment when the Prince pointing to the 
 famous trees designated that as the point on which 
 his army was to march, witli the words to the 
 advancing guard, " Auf den baum marschiert da 
 geht's los." (" March for the tree, there it begins." ) 
 One of the officers here has made a charming 
 picture of the same scene, and it is being photo- 
 graphed, so I hope to secure a couple of copies. 
 At the time spoken of we did not know that the tree
 
 Letters from Bohemia and the War of 1866. 255 
 
 really was two trees and a cross. As soon as the 
 Prince had set his columns straight for the point, 
 we rode down the hill and galloped straight for the 
 tree, which was immediately behind the village of 
 Horonovics, where we passed that night, returning 
 at 11 o'clock after the battle. A colonel of the 
 Guard came to luncheon a day or two ago, and 
 told us a capital story. The main road from 
 Nicholsburg to Vienna is on what is called the 
 Kaiser Strasse. One of his fellows who was 
 quartered in a village on the road wrote upon 
 the wall of the first house, ' Nicht Kaiser Strasse 
 sondern Konig Wilhelm's strasse, Huridert meilen 
 von Berlin, Katzensprung nacht Wien." ("Not 
 Emperor's street, but King Wilhelm's street, hun- 
 dred miles from Berlin, a cat's jump from Vienna.") 
 Not bad. I really could fill a book with the stories 
 I have heard. The preliminaries of peace are 
 ratified, and I sent my last official telegram to 
 England last night. I don't think I can find any 
 more occasion for messages, as I have nothing 
 to do with the political part of the business. I 
 rode yesterday to a summer house of Prince Lich- 
 tenstein's, looking on one of the lakes between 
 Eisgrub and Feldsburg. Three rooms on the first 
 storey are connected by two terraces laid out as 
 well as the rooms with beds of plants arranged on 
 moss. I have seldom seen anything prettier. There 
 was a fine piece of grass along the side of the lake 
 where I and my companions had a screaming gallop 
 like a pack of children. We rode home through 
 the newly cut cornfields with a fine view of Eisgrub 
 and the neighbouring country. I am sorry to say
 
 256 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 the harvest is a failure, and I much fear that one of 
 the adjuncts of this campaign will be famine. I 
 pity the poor inhabitants from my heart. Yester- 
 day morning I had a visit from the parish priest, 
 who came to thank me in the name of his flock for 
 what ? For kind words, for I have been able to do 
 no more for them, nor in my present delicate posi- 
 tion would it have been my duty to interfere in any 
 way with the Prussian arrangements. I have, from 
 the happy terms on which I live with the Crown 
 Prince and his staff, been able to give them one 
 warning which has been partially attended to. In 
 the very first days I observed that they took no 
 pains to collect the Austrian arms or provide for 
 the captured ammunition, and spoke privately to 
 General Blumenthal, who caused orders to be issued 
 on the subject. They are now paying for their 
 carelessness, as the peasants in Bohemia are all 
 armed, and shoot at everybody they find alone. I 
 fancy Pott had a risky journey; he has caught 
 cold, and seems a good deal more knocked up than 
 old Punch, who beyond being very sleepy seems 
 quite well. Pott tells me that he always slept with 
 the old horse on the march. 
 
 Eisgrub, 30th July. Only one more night at this 
 charming place. We march to-morrow to Briinn, 
 remain there two days for the King's review on the 
 2nd, and then start for Berlin vid Prague if we 
 can, vid somewhere else if we can't. I am afraid I 
 shall have to stay some days in Berlin, as I do not 
 expect the horses will get home as fast as I and 
 Stockwell, and I shall have a good deal to arrange. 
 Indeed my work only now begins. Last night we
 
 Letters from Bohemia and the War of 1866. 257 
 
 had a band at dinner, and the peasants danced in 
 very good style to the music. There had also been 
 a church festival in the day, which brought great 
 numbers of them into Eisgrub, and I have seldom 
 seen a more picturesque sight than the church pre- 
 sented. After dinner one of the boys, a fine little 
 fellow of about fourteen, came up to me and asked 
 if we would not take him to Berlin. I found an 
 opportunity of speaking to the Crown Prince, who 
 received him very kindly, and said if his parents 
 consented he would see about it to-day, so you may 
 have a chance of seeing the dress of these peasants. 
 They are much darker than the Moravian inhabit- 
 ants, and on high days and holidays wear a peculiar 
 dress, something like the Hungarian, which is very 
 picturesque. A large white cloak with a square 
 cape, white shirt, crimson pantaloons, and high 
 boots to the knee, with a voluminous white tie, and 
 a round low hat with a coloured band and a wreath 
 of flowers, make up a very showy costume. The 
 women also wear very bright colours, high boots, 
 and a gaudy coloured handkerchief on the head. 
 
 Briinn, 3~Lst July. Yesterday afternoon Colonel 
 Heilly turned up, and brought me letters and 
 parcel, all most welcome. I got him a room in the 
 castle, and he dined with us and made acquaintance 
 with most of the staff. This morning we left nice 
 Eisgrub, and started from the station at 10.30, 
 arriving here at 1 o'clock. Here we stop two days, 
 and then whether I go to Berlin, or remain here, or 
 go somewhere else with the staff, I do not know. 
 I have a swell room here, but the house is infested 
 with flies and children, who I hope won't howl at 
 
 s
 
 258 Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 night. And I think my hosts are Jews, which is 
 not tempting. 
 
 Briinn, 1st August. I can tell you nothing of 
 my plans, as we are in that happy state of mi- 
 certainty that we know nothing of our movements 
 beyond to-morrow, when we are all going to a great 
 review of the 5th Army Corps, near Wischau. I 
 have already sent off Joseph and two horses, and 
 am going to drive with Colonel Reilly to the place. 
 I don't know when we shall get back. I have 
 been lazy to-day, owing to a bad night's rest, 
 thanks to a clock in my room which strikes so 
 loud that it woke me every hour. At 7 the baby 
 began to cry, so I got up to my writing. Pott 
 got a kick from a led horse yesterday, and has 
 had to go to bed, that is, to his straw ; thanks, 
 however, to cold water he is better this afternoon. 
 After breakfast I drove with Colonel Reilly to 
 see the cholera patients in the Spielberg, which 
 is an old Austrian state prison, overlooking the 
 town. The greater number of them had been 
 removed, but we saw some of the wards, talked to 
 the poor fellows, which seemed to cheer them up. 
 The cholera has been very bad here, but seems to 
 be abating, and most of those we saw were recover- 
 ing. We all dine with the Crown Prince to-day at 
 6, when I suppose we shall learn something about 
 our future movements. 
 
 8 p.m. We have just come back from dinner 
 with the Crown Prince, who has now gone to receive 
 the King. Some of our party are already on the 
 move. Prince Hohenzollern is off to Konigshoff 
 to see his wounded brother. I heard a very good
 
 Letters from Bohemia and the War of 1866. 259 
 
 account of Major von Erkhert, who seems to be 
 doing well. I dare say after the review to-morrow 
 I shall be able to tell you my plans. 
 
 Brtinn, 3rd August. I saw the King and Crown 
 Prince off this morning. They were most kind. The 
 dear old King actually spoke a little English to me, 
 which, as he only speaks about three words and a 
 half, was evidently meant as a mark of high favour. 
 The Crown Prince spoke like an old and valued 
 friend, so warmly and kindly, and told me he had 
 written to the Queen to say how much he valued 
 my attendance on him. The King told me twice 
 yesterday that he fully appreciated having had an 
 honest eye-witness with his army, so that I have 
 every reason to be satisfied with their acknowledg- 
 ment of my endeavour to do my duty honestly. I 
 met the Mayor of Briinn, Dr Geiskra, at dinner last 
 night. He says the people of Briinn have had very 
 little to complain of from the Prussians, who have 
 behaved very well in general. He is rather a 
 remarkable person, being one of the most pro- 
 minent opposition members in the Austrian 
 Parliament. 
 
 Briinn, 6th August. I had a nice drive into the 
 country yesterday afternoon with Colonel Reilly 
 and Captain Webber. "We drove to a hill about 
 three or four miles from Briinn, from whence there 
 was a splendid view over the whole country, of 
 course including the town and Speilberg. After 
 returning we went up to look at the cathedral, 
 which stands somewhat over the town, and is well 
 worth seeing, as the interior is simple and grand 
 without being over decorated. I hope to start the 
 
 s 2
 
 260 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 horses to-morrow with those of the Crown Prince. 
 I am also trying to get up a party to visit the 
 battlefields, from whence I shall make my way to 
 Berlin, as I am quite tired of doing nothing at 
 Brtinn, waiting for information which comes so 
 slowly. I don't see much now of my former 
 companions, as their hours and mine do not suit, 
 but I am going to dine with them to-day at 3 a 
 horrid hour, which cuts up the day, and is neither 
 breakfast or dinner according to my habits. 
 
 Brunn, *lth August. The horses, I hope, start 
 to-morrow, and unless I can manage to get back to 
 Koniggratz on Thursday, I shall start to-morrow 
 evening for Berlin. I was to have gone on an 
 expedition to-day, but was prevented by the funeral 
 of General von Mutius, which, of course, we all 
 attend. Had the campaign lasted a little longer a 
 good many more of the old gentlemen would have 
 broken down. He died of cholera, brought on by 
 over fatigue and anxiety, and is much regretted in 
 the army. The poor soldiers are suffering now for 
 the success of the campaign ; incessant marching 
 in heat and rain, bivouacking without shelter, and 
 bad feeding, are having the usual results, and there 
 are about 2,400 men in hospital in Briinn, besides 
 a considerable number in the neighbouring villages. 
 On Saturday 49 died, on Sunday 51, yesterday 
 only 18, so the sickness may be said to be on the 
 decrease. There is a good deal of typhus as well 
 as cholera. The wounded who are here do remark- 
 ably well, as they are in hut hospitals, with plenty 
 of fresh air, and in which there has been no 
 suspicion of hospital gangrene ; and I hear that the
 
 Letters from Bohemia and the War of 1866. 261 
 
 wounded at Konigshof are also doing well, but at 
 Nachod there have been a great many deaths. It 
 is a great pity that no English surgeon was sent to 
 draw up reports on the medical occurrences of the 
 campaign, but there has been so much indecision 
 on the part of both governments, that those officers 
 who got leave were only sent when it was too 
 late. 
 
 Prague, ~LQth August. So far on my home 
 journey. I wish I had come here a week ago, as 
 it is the most interesting place I have yet seen. 
 We had a weary journey from Briinn, starting at 
 9. GO and arriving here at 8 p.m. We are in a 
 baddish sort of hotel, but owing to the squeeze in 
 Prague are lucky to have any place at all. I have 
 had a great sleep, ditto breakfast, and a shave, and 
 am now going to write my name on some officials, 
 I did not go to the battlefield, as I was most 
 strongly advised not. The place is a perfect pest- 
 house. 
 
 Berlin, 12th August. Safe at home in a nice 
 clean house, and I shall start in a couple of days 
 to join you. The beasts arrived safely on Friday 
 morning early, or rather the middle of the night, 
 and are well and lively. Punch looks all the better 
 for his expedition to Eisgrub, and has at length 
 coated. Old Jacko looks very well and very im- 
 portant, as if he had been hearing strange stories 
 from his companions. It seems to be very strange 
 to me to begin a quiet life after all my vaga- 
 bonding.
 
 262 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 At the close of the Austro-Prussian War, he 
 returned to his duty at Berlin, and again on the 
 outbreak of the Franco-Prussian War he served as 
 British Military Commissioner at the Head Quarters 
 of the Third German Army under H.R.H. the 
 Crown Prince of Prussia, and was present at the 
 Battles of Weissemburg, Wiirth and Sedan, and 
 throughout the investment of Paris, and received 
 the permission of Her Majesty to accept and wear 
 the Iron Cross, and the medal granted at the 
 termination of the campaign. [Ed.j
 
 EXTRACTS FROM JOURNAL. 
 
 January, 18G8. I was in the last week of 1867 
 in company with Count Bismarck at a shooting 
 party in the Hartz. On the last day of our visit, 
 after the other guests had taken flight, I sat for 
 more than an hour with the Count and the family 
 (Asseburg), while he talked over many matters 
 connected with the campaign, and among others 
 mentioned the implicit confidence which he had 
 always placed in the opinions of General Moltke. 
 As he said, " I always voted at the councils of 
 war blindly with Moltke, between whom and 
 General Voights Rhetz were often differences of 
 opinion, probably because the one thought it 
 necessary not to agree with the other." 
 
 January 15th. Dinner yesterday with the Crown 
 Prince ; afterwards an evening party at Countess 
 Schulemburg's to meet the King and Queen. The 
 King looks himself again, and is in good spirits, 
 a sure sign that he is well. With the least real 
 illness, down go his spirits to zero. To-day I 
 dined with Aristarchi Bey, Turkish Minister at 
 Berlin a good and cheerful dinner. After dinner 
 Aristarchi told me a curious story. Some years 
 ago, when Sir H. Rawlinson was at Bagdad,
 
 264 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 Aristarchi was sent there to see into, and settle 
 some complaints against Nedjib Pasha, the Turkish 
 governor. While there he saved a slave of the 
 Pasha from a beating for some fault he had com- 
 
 O 
 
 mitted. A few nights later, after he had retired 
 for the night, this slave insisted on being admitted 
 to him, threw himself at his feet, and warned him 
 not to drink coffee which he should present to 
 Aristarchi at his next visit to the Pasha. Sure 
 enough, on his waiting next day on the Pasha, 
 pipes and coffee were as usual called for, and the 
 coffee was handed to Aristarchi by this very slave, 
 whose advice, as may be supposed, he was careful 
 to follow, and he quietly added, " I took good care 
 to make that a farewell visit." 
 
 16th January. One of the private concerts at 
 the palace sat by Countess Oriolla, who is always 
 pleasant and hearty. Artot sang charmingly as 
 usual, particularly a little Spanish song, which I 
 remember hearing twenty-seven years ago in dear 
 old Gibraltar. Talking of Gibraltar, Sir Alexander 
 Woodford has just been made a field- marshal, in 
 the company of three more old boys, whose joint 
 ages must represent about 350 years. I hope he 
 may live and enjoy his honours as long as life is 
 pleasant to him. 
 
 22fl d January. A pleasant day's shooting yes- 
 terday over my own little chasse at Seddin. My 
 landlord Gilka, Count Bylandt, Dutch Minister, 
 and three gentlemen from the Embassy, formed 
 the party. We only bagged twelve hares, 
 through nine or ten fallow deer and a couple of 
 roe were seen. My companions shot vilely with
 
 Extracts from Journal. 265 
 
 the exception of Bylandt and O'Connor, who each 
 bagged a brace of hares. Gussy Loftus owned to 
 missing eight, Gilka five, and old Busse, the Chan- 
 cery messenger, has a machine which only goes off 
 when the hares are in the next parish, 
 
 February 10^. The Crown Princess a son, a 
 fine child, and both doing well. Bismarck has 
 taken sick leave after a reported stormy interview 
 with the King. 
 
 February 12th. To the palace to present our 
 good wishes on the recent happy occasion . From what 
 we heard there we appear to be singular among the 
 corps diplomatique in our civility. I conclude there 
 is some misunderstanding. The only person who had 
 called when we were there, which was the second 
 day of three appointed for this purpose, was 
 Madame Aristarchi, who is a born Prussian, 
 daughter of General v. Bonin, once Minister of 
 War. 
 
 28th February. Thursday, concert at the palace. 
 Lucca sang. I think her voice has lost some of its 
 sweetness. I should say that St. Petersburg had 
 finished the process of turning her head. As to that 
 of her fat husband, the last visit to England did that 
 for him. He talks of " Wales " in a way that makes 
 me sick. 
 
 March 1th. Prince Napoleon arrived at Berlin 
 on the 4th, and has taken up his quarters in the 
 Hotel Royal. He dined with the King and Queen 
 on the 5th, and to-night we are invited to a soiree 
 at the palace given in his honour. I cannot learn 
 that he has any mission whatever. He was probably 
 de trap in Paris during the discussion of the Press
 
 266 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 Bill. He has visited Cassel and Hanover on his 
 way, and is now going to Dresden. A concert last 
 evening in honour of the Prince. Plon Plon looks 
 very fat and ugly. I have not seen him since the 
 Crimea, and years have not improved his beauty. 
 Bismarck was confined to the house with brow ague, 
 and the old King prescribed for him a decoction of 
 unroasted coffee, without sugar or milk an experi- 
 ment which we tried on the Britisli soldier in the 
 slack days of the early Crimean war. 
 
 December I5th and 16th. At Konigs Wiister- 
 shausen with the King. A more agreeable two days 
 can hardly be conceived. Fair sport on the first 
 day forty wild boar and twenty-nine deer, on the 
 next day almost the same and the pleasantest 
 party you can imagine. I have never seen the 
 King looking and seeming so well, so fresh and 
 hearty in face, and in such good spirits. He had a 
 joke for everybody, and, what seldom occurs, talked 
 English with me, as he generally breaks down at 
 " How do you do, Walker?" and then goes off into 
 German or French. Bismarck also looked very well, 
 and appeared in excellent spirits and totally devoid 
 of care. I was walking with him towards the close 
 of the first day, just behind the King, and remark- 
 ing how well he looked, when Bismarck said, " Ah, 
 I tell those who expect liberal reforms that they 
 will have to wait ; he will never grant them if he 
 can help it; but his successor may. I often say to 
 such people, ' You had better not pull the old lion's 
 leg; he bites, I can tell you.' ' Bismarck also spoke 
 of what might occur under the Crown Prince. The 
 impression made on me was, that he had no
 
 Extracts from Journal. 267 
 
 objection to the King governing Prussia, so long as 
 he permitted Bismarck to be the ruler of North 
 Germany. The Crown Prince of Saxony and his 
 brother, Prince George, were also of the party. 
 The latter was quite ill from the effects of the 
 tobacco parliament of the previous night. This is 
 one of the institutions of Wustershausen held in 
 commemoration of Frederick William I., whose 
 favourite country residence this chateau was. It 
 has been very well restored. The room upstairs, in 
 which the parliament is held, is supposed to be 
 exactly as in the King's time ; the same tables and 
 chairs (with the addition of a few modern ones), 
 the same pipes, the tobacco in plates, the same or 
 similar beer jugs, though, as mine had 1762 on it, 
 it must have been a replacement. I had the 
 honour of filling the old King's pipe for him, which, 
 however, he got rid of after smoking his usual half- 
 dozen whiffs. I thought he seemed to take very 
 kindly to his beer ; and after a time, and when he 
 had nearly finished half his mug, he said, " I think 
 this must be some new beer, it tastes very sweet ; 
 I wish somebody else would try it, it's not bad ; " 
 and, lo and behold ! it was sweet champagne. 
 
 December 19th. I hear the Crown Prince and 
 Princess return on the 31st, leaving England on 
 the 28th. I have heard from half a dozen sources 
 at least, of the warmth with which he has spoken 
 of me in England. How glad I shall be to see him 
 again. God grant he may have the strength to 
 act, when king, as he intends at present. How 
 well I remember his saying to me on the Sunday 
 before Koniggratz, driving back from church and
 
 268 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 communion at Kettersdorf: " Colonel Walker, I 
 pray daily that God will give me strength to do 
 hereafter what I know to be right." It was an 
 eventful conversation, which his journal tells me, 
 made as great an impression on the Prince as on 
 the humble soldier. Marie Bismarck tells me that 
 her father does not sleep, in other respects he 
 is well. I recommended the hop pillow, of which 
 they had heard, but the doctor considers it too 
 narcotic the very quality I should have thought 
 applicable to a man who will work and can't 
 sleep. 
 
 18th January, 1869. The Prince and Princess 
 of Wales arrived last night from Copenhagen and 
 Liibeck. The Prince looked very well and jolly, 
 the Princess very pretty, but is still very lame. 
 Invited to dine at the palace. The Princess of 
 Wales came in on the King's arm, and went round 
 the circle. On Bismarck being introduced the 
 Princess spoke to him with marked grace. What 
 she said I could not of course hear; Bismarck, 
 however, appeared much pleased. The old King 
 got so puzzled with all the names, that when he 
 came to Count Nesselrode he had totally forgotten 
 the name, and could only say u der erste Kammer- 
 herr der Konigen." The Princess has fairly taken 
 Berlin by storm. The King is most kind to her ; 
 but the way in which people raved about her at 
 the Opera House was quite wonderful. The fact 
 is, the little lady is as nearly perfect in her 
 manner as can be, and looks worthy of all the 
 admiration we bestow on her in England. 
 
 j. The Crown Princess invited us all to
 
 Extracts from Journal. 269 
 
 go to the ice to meet the joint party, which gave 
 me the opportunity of being presented to the 
 Princess. It was very pleasant, and we were 
 joined by the Queen, who took a turn on the ice 
 in a chair pushed by the Prince. I was accompany- 
 ing her Majesty to her carriage, when who should 
 drive up but the King, who also went down and 
 joined the merry party, drinking a health to the 
 Princess of Wales. The Queen spoke most warmly 
 of her, and appeared greatly pleased when I told 
 her how the Berliners raved about the little Danish 
 Rose. A ball at the King's Palace in the evening, 
 very select, but quite full enough for the rooms not 
 to look empty. The Princess looked lovely; she 
 was most gracious in her manner to Bismarck, who 
 appeared greatly pleased with her. 
 
 'February 9th. We had a brilliant masked ball 
 at the Crown Prince's on the 6th. A greater 
 success I never saw ; all were in good humour, and 
 seemed to enjoy themselves. There were a great 
 many handsome dresses, and the three ballets 
 passed off capitally, and are to be repeated to-night 
 at the Schloss, where they will have more room. 
 The Crown Prince appeared irifour different masks, 
 and was full of fun, so much so that the King and 
 Queen, who did not recognise him, at one time 
 proposed that he should be turned out. The King 
 looked well in plain clothes with the garter and 
 a blue domino ; the Crown Princess as Jane 
 Seymour, a beautiful dress, and Prince Henry 
 of Hesse in a dress of the same date, very hand- 
 some and becoming. The two best dresses were 
 Lord Brabazon, as a cavalier, and Count Harrack,
 
 270 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 as a member of the Vehmgericht. The dances 
 were repeated with much eclat at the palace ball 
 on Shrove Tuesday, where most of the maskers 
 of the previous Saturday also appeared in costume, 
 and instead of the usual royal polonaise marched 
 in procession, and defiled before the King and 
 Queen, headed by the Crown Princess. 
 
 I5th May, 1870. The Emperor of Eussia left 
 this morning after a two days' visit en route to 
 Ems. He was driven round to the railway station 
 so as to avoid seeing the funeral procession of old 
 Waideck. the man of the people, who died last 
 week, and was buried to-day, followed by an 
 enormous procession. We had a parade yesterday 
 morning for the Emperor to see a Prussian brigade 
 exercised under fire. On my way home I called on 
 Prince W. Radziwiil, and talking of the sombre and 
 faded look of the Emperor, he said, "He is dying 
 of that which kills all Emperors of Russia, the dis- 
 covery that he can do nothing." I had seen the 
 Emperor here two years ago, and can perceive a 
 great alteration for the worse. He is said to be 
 never free from apprehension of an attempt on his 
 life. His appearance is not prepossessing ; he has 
 a look of extreme hauteur, and of being bored to 
 death into the bargain. Not so his debonnair old 
 uncle, who at seventy-three looked last night at the 
 soiree at the palace as well as I have seen him look 
 for a long time. I have had a most interesting 
 conversation with old Steinmetz about the Crown 
 Prince, and was glad to find how well Steinmetz 
 thought of him. He described H.R.H. as I know 
 him, cool, thoughtful, considerate of the opinion
 
 Extracts from J-ournaL 271 
 
 of others, ready to give them free hand in the 
 first instance and full credit afterwards, with- 
 out a spark of jealousy. A noble fellow, and a 
 future blessing to his country. Steinmetz told me 
 that before the campaign he was driving with the 
 Crown Prince, who said to him, " General, it is a 
 perfect scandal that I should be in command of 
 men like yourself and others." To which the old 
 fellow replied, " Sir, it's your duty and part of 
 your calling, as a prince of our royal house, to take 
 high command, and we shall all obey you cheer- 
 fully and willingly." He wound up by saying, 
 "Thank God that I shall close my eyes with the 
 feeling that the country will one day be safe in 
 such hands." 
 
 July) 1870. In what a turmoil do I find Germany 
 on my return from a hasty leave of absence. On the 
 1st July I reached England, hoping for six weeks' 
 quiet to transact urgent private affairs. I went to 
 stay with some cousins in the country on the 9th, 
 was telegraphed for on Sunday the 10th, and after 
 four days of indecision at the Foreign Office started 
 on the evening of the 14th on a journey of much 
 interest via Cologne and the Ehine for Berlin. To 
 give an idea of the way they manage business in 
 our public offices, I will record that the letter 
 ordering me to start, was stuffed into the letter-box 
 of my house in London after it was shut up, where 
 it was found by my servants, half in and half out of 
 the box, on the following morning, too late for me 
 to start by the early boat, whilst Otway's letter 
 to the same tenor was delivered by post at 9 a.m. 
 The telegram I received in the country was F.O. :
 
 272 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 (t Return home to-morrow morning," which I did 
 by the early express. Had he said, " At your 
 earliest convenience," I should have done all my 
 business on that morning, and when I told him 
 what a mess he had put me into he said, "But why 
 did you not telegraph you could not come ? " to 
 which I replied only, " Because I am a soldier, and 
 when I get an order I obey it." Further than 
 which the telegram concluded by saying that a 
 letter from the F. O. was lying at my house. Really 
 such doings are beyond the conception of ordinary 
 mortals. 
 
 Cologne, I6th July, 1870. How little I thought 
 when writing to you yesterday that war was already 
 proclaimed by France. I was much surprised at 
 the apathy with which the announcement of war 
 was received here last night. There were no crowds 
 in the streets and very few remarks. You will have 
 heard of the King's reception by 100,000 people in 
 Berlin. I expect the French will have considerable 
 success at first, but in the end we shall see 
 Germaiiy victorious. It is very hot, and my specs 
 keep tumbling off my nose. I left one pair on my 
 writing table at home ; please send them to me. 
 Such an exodus from here yesterday. I wonder 
 what my old friend who was going to Homburg 
 will do. 
 
 Wiesbaden, VltTi Jtily, 1870. Here I am at the 
 Rose, having arrived last night after a hot eight 
 hours' rail from Cologne, which place I left in a 
 state of confusion hardly to be described. All 
 Saturday the terrified fugitives from Kreuznach, 
 Baden, &c., were pouring in, crowding the stations
 
 Extracts from Journal. 273 
 
 and hotels, screaming for their luggage or wander- 
 ing about in search of shelter and provisions. 
 When I went to bed at 11 o'clock, which I did 
 on the principle that I don't know how much 
 longer I shall be able to enjoy my natural 
 rest, I left the business of supper going on. 
 at the Nord to an extent which the diminished staff 
 of waiters was ill able to supply. When I met Herr 
 Weiss in the morning, I asked him if he had had 
 any sleep, and he said, " Not much. Only think, 
 colonel, when I got up this morning I found an 
 English gentleman I know very well fast asleep 
 at my bedroom door, and his daughter, a girl of 
 eighteen, as fast asleep in a crib which stood on 
 the landing." When I went up to the station at 
 8 to look for the messenger to Berlin I found 
 Karnebeck, Countess Bylandt, and another lady, 
 who had fled in hot haste from Kreuznach, had con- 
 sidered themselves lucky to get seats in a third-class 
 carriage, had lost their luggage, and had passed the 
 night in the station. The messenger I only found 
 at 10 o'clock, when he told me that his train had 
 not been able to get into the station, and that he 
 had only just found his luggage. I paid my bill 
 and started for this place at 11.45, arriving at 7.45, 
 after eight of the hottest hours I have ever passed. 
 Curious to say, after Coblentz there was no great 
 excitement, and Wiesbaden looks just as usual. 
 I have been writing since 7, with the band play- 
 ing on the promenade. I was welcomed here 
 with open arms, and though my old room is occu- 
 pied I was given the one next to it, with many 
 apologies, whilst old Minna danced about me, half 
 
 T
 
 274 Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 with joy to see me and half grief at the loss 
 of Lord Clarendon, who was an habitue here for 
 many years. I sent my card last night to Eulen- 
 burg, and have already had a kind message, hoping 
 to see me as soon as convenient. So as soon as I have 
 breakfasted I shall go to Government House and 
 have a chat. This place, of course, swarms with 
 lies, each more improbable than the last, and most 
 of which a little knowledge of Prussian organisation, 
 and of what war really is, prove to be false. How- 
 ever, one fact I have learnt, and that is that the 
 garrison of Rastatt has been largely reinforced. 
 Colonel Lowe and General Ashburnham are here, 
 so that I am by no means companionless. The 
 enthusiasm for this war is great; all differences 
 appear to be forgotten in the common love of the 
 Fatherland. 
 
 Frankfort, Vltli July. I am assured that the 
 feeling here is wonderful, everybody in the best 
 spirits. Rastatt, Germersheim, and Landau have 
 been reinforced, the first by Prussian, the two latter 
 by Bavarian troops. 
 
 Wiesbaden, 18th. Both the fortresses I have 
 mentioned are now supposed to be secure from a 
 coup de main. The most remarkable point of all 
 is the feeling shown by the Frankfurters, before 
 so hostile to Prussia. They have come forward 
 in the readiest manner, and all parties equally so. 
 The unanimity throughout the country is remark- 
 able, and will I hope not be forgotten by the Govern- 
 ment when the danger has been surmounted. Report 
 says that the dear Crown Prince is to command 
 the armies of South Germany. If I am to go with
 
 Extracts from jf-onrnal. 275 
 
 the army I shall hope to find myself destined to 
 accompany the man I love and honour so thoroughly. 
 It is melancholy to see the beautiful harvest, almost 
 ripe, and standing uncut for want of hands, who 
 are dragged away by this unexpected war. The 
 favourable opinion of the English press is beyond 
 measure valued here. I hear that the stampede 
 from Schwalbach equalled that from Kreuznach. 
 Here the people have stood pretty fast up to the 
 present time, but it would not take much to set 
 them all going. No one really knows where the 
 French are concentrated ; and as to the move- 
 ments of the Prussian troops, I should, of course, 
 trust nothing so important to a letter if I knew 
 anything certain, which I don't. I think they 
 will be in their places when they are wanted, 
 and will make a good fight for their Father- 
 land. 
 
 Wiesbaden, 2Qt/i July. The heat is awful ; if I 
 knew of any cooler place equally suitable as nay 
 head-quarters I should move. It was reported by 
 the paper of last night that a French general had 
 left Paris with the declaration of war, I presume 
 for Berlin. The very mode of sending it is a proof 
 of French unreadiness, if true ; had they been as 
 ready as they were supposed to be, they would 
 have sent the declaration of war to the Prussian 
 outposts and attacked. (Old Story is a humbug, and 
 his razor strop not worth swearing at ; tell Stock- 
 well to buy me a really good one, and send it out 
 to Berlin.) I wonder when I shall hear what is to 
 become of me ; of course I hope for the Crown 
 Prince as in '66 ; he is, I believe, to command 
 
 T 2
 
 276 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 the South German armies, while Prince Frederick 
 Carl commands the north. 
 
 Wiesbaden, 21st July. I have nothing particular 
 to write about, but also nothing particular to do, so 
 I may as well write a line. I hear to-day, by a 
 letter from Rastatt, that great activity prevails 
 there, that there is perfect unanimity between the 
 Prussian and Baden troops in garrison, and that 
 they are looking forward with calm confidence to 
 the first attack of the French, whose outposts are 
 about two hours distant from the fortress. I also 
 hear that the communication with Switzerland is 
 interrupted below Mannheim and Heidelberg. 
 The heat is awful, enough to choke a dog, even a 
 little wee dog. 
 
 Berlin, 23rd July. I reached home just before 
 half -past 12 last night, and found the house shut up 
 and all gone to bed. I had been going since 5 a.m., 
 so soon roused them to get me some food, and then 
 turned in to sleep the sleep of the just. The christen- 
 ing to-morrow at the Neues Palais. I must have 
 passed Alvensleben somewhere on the road yester- 
 day. I had a carriage all to myself to Halle, where 
 some disagreeable people came in who would 
 have the windows shut females while their 
 two males, one of whom was excited with beer 
 and glory, smoked alternately. We were four 
 and a half hours getting from Halle to Berlin, 
 but it was a cool day, and by no means dusty. 
 To-day is almost cold. You may quiet your minds 
 about me. For the present I do not go either with 
 the King or Crown Prince. An interview with 
 General v. Treskow has led to a total alteration of
 
 Extracts from Journal. 277 
 
 my plans. The Prussian Government, on grounds 
 which (though bitterly disappointed) I cannot but 
 approve, have declined to encumber the head- 
 quarters with princes or military attaches. Whether 
 later I shall join the Crown Prince remains to be 
 seen. Nothing could have exceeded Treskow's 
 kindness. He told me that the King personally 
 wished my presence with the army, but that as 
 every one had been refused, Russians, Wurtem- 
 bergers, Bavarians, and German princes, no excep- 
 tion could be made. I learnt in the course of the 
 day that that mischievous braggart and impostor 
 Bernhardt had been seriously mixed up in the 
 matter of the Spanish candidature. He has been 
 for some months in Madrid, where if he had 
 instructions from Bismarck there is no doubt that 
 he greatly exceeded them. But this confirmation 
 of what was told me confidentially in England 
 certainly fixes the intrigue to some extent on 
 Bismarck, not on the King, who I am convinced 
 was perfectly innocent in the matter. Added to 
 this Leopold Hohenzollern, who was my constant 
 room companion during the campaign of '66, was 
 about the most likely and most harmless candidate 
 I can conceive Catholic, so distantly connected 
 with the Prussian royal family that it would take a 
 Scotchman to discover the cousinship, liberal, un- 
 important, and possessed of ample private means, 
 further, forced to ascend the throne as a constitu- 
 tional sovereign. 
 
 Berlin, 24ith July. Only a hasty line to say 1 
 go with the army, I hope and believe with the 
 Crown Prince ; but as the King personally wishes
 
 278 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 me to be with the army, his wishes, whatever way 
 they tend, must be respected. It was such a sad 
 ceremony to-day at the luncheon, hardly a word 
 was spoken, and the baby's health was drank in 
 silence. These christenings are ominous festivals, 
 the last celebrated in the same locality (the Neues 
 Palais) immediately preceded the war of 1866. 
 The Queen gave me her hand, saying, " Do you 
 remember our parting in '66 ? You must go with 
 my son. I trusted him to your hands before, and I 
 cannot be happy unless you are with him." I never 
 saw the King so sad. I thought he would have 
 burst into tears while lie was talking to me. He 
 said, "Wo shall have terrible reverses, but with 
 God's help we shall get over this hard time." 
 What I am to do for horses I do not know, and 
 probably shall have to take Cannonier, my sainted 
 Punch, and perhaps also the pony. I have already 
 communicated with a gentleman in Saxony who 
 has horses for sale. Pott has found me a 
 baggage cart, which can be ready in two days. I 
 expect to see Alvensleben to-morrow or next day. 
 The division of Landwehr of the Guard is to be 
 attached to the force defending the coast under the 
 command of the Grand Duke of Schwerin, who was 
 as cheery yesterday as if he were going to have a 
 fourth wedding. Russell is here, and being king 
 of correspondents will accompany the King. I told 
 both Bismarck and Treskow that they ought to take 
 him, that it was of incalculable advantage to have 
 the Times on their side. I need not tell you that I 
 am perfectly aware of what I undertake. My post 
 will be one of the greatest delicacy, and I shall have
 
 Extracts from Journal. 279 
 
 to be extremely careful both towards my good friends, 
 and towards my own Government. As regards 
 dangers and fatigues, I am doing my duty by order 
 of my Queen, and will trust in the same Providence 
 which has brought me back in safety after four 
 campaigns. I only wish I was ten years younger 
 or a major-general, as I have now seen men who 
 were lieutenant-colonels when I came here, long in 
 command of brigades, and am senior by eight years 
 to every colonel in the Prussian service. Prince 
 Frederick Carl commands five corps including the 
 Guard, Herwath three, Steinmetz two ; the Duke 
 of Mecklenburg Schwerin, assisted by that able 
 soldier Falkenstein, commands in the north ; and 
 the dear Crown Prince has the hardest task, but one 
 that no other man could so well fulfil. Blumenthal 
 is with him again, and has, as also Treskow, treated 
 me with a hearty frankness which I can never 
 forget. There have been numerous arrests of 
 persons more than suspected of correspondence with 
 the French Petersdorff, who has been living in 
 Strelitz, a Count Bremer, Kilmansegge, or rather 
 his wife, and one of the Wedells. As long as the 
 question was between two German states I could 
 understand and feel for the anti-Prussian sympathies, 
 but no longer when it became a question of intro- 
 ducing the French into Germany, but I feel great 
 regret at the persons known to myself who are 
 undoubtedly implicated. With all the excitement 
 there is no noise, no drunkenness, no boasting, but 
 all look grave, and God knows they must feel it. 
 You know how much I am personally attached to 
 the Crown Prince and how thoroughly I appreciate
 
 280 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 his manly truthful character. I have for twenty- 
 four hours been aware of the secret treaty between 
 France and Prussia published in the Times of 
 yesterday and which will appear to-night in the 
 Berlin papers. 
 
 Yesterday the Times published the text of a 
 treaty of alliance, offensive and defensive, proposed 
 by France to Prussia. 
 
 No date. I had already known of this paper, 
 which coolly proposes that France shall take 
 Luxembourg by agreement with the King of 
 Holland, and Belgium by force or otherwise, and 
 shall be protected in so doing by Prussia, whose 
 conquests of 1866 were to be guaranteed, and who 
 was to be permitted to overrun, the south, and form 
 a confederation with one parliament. " Rogues all " 
 will I think be the " mot " in England, for as there 
 is no date we don't know how far Bismarck's state- 
 ment that this took place in the spring of 1867 is 
 true, and he is such an infernal schemer that no 
 one knows where to have him. The cunning of 
 this coup was that it was published in England and 
 is adverted to in the papers as having been made 
 public there. The draught is in Benedetti's own 
 handwriting, and I have seen a facsimile which 
 went home yesterday to our government. I am 
 told that he will to-day publish another proposed 
 treaty, by which in 1866 the Emperor Napoleon 
 offered Prussia 300,000 men against Austria in 
 exchange for the left bank of the Ehine, but was 
 refused with the intimation that Prussia did not 
 want the men, and would not give the land. If 
 Prussia can show her honest refusal on these two
 
 Extracts from Journal. 281 
 
 occasions well and good, if not, as I said before, 
 " rogues all," they are two palpable bids for 
 England and Austria. 
 
 Count Welsersheim (Austrian military attache) 
 came to see me yesterday. His government will 
 not apply for leave for him to accompany the army, 
 and I think he will go on leave during the 
 campaign. He assures me as a soldier his orders 
 were, if invited, to accompany the army in good 
 faith. He saw Archduke Albrecht, the Minister of 
 War, and Count Eeust before leaving Vienna. He 
 acknowledges that the government debated the 
 question of "France" or "neutral," but that the 
 people were determined not to go against Germany. 
 I told him as frankly as we have always spoken 
 towards each other, that if Austria went against 
 Germany, Austria would cease to exist in her 
 present form. Prussia was one thing but Germany 
 was another. Bismarck looks as I have not seen 
 him look since '66, clear and healthy. On my 
 expressing my pleasure that he was looking so well, 
 he said, " Now the uncertainty is off my mind I 
 have no care, and am perfectly well again." I 
 don't believe he ever was really ill. If the Duke 
 of Nassau has joined the army, as I hear he has, he 
 is the finest gentleman in Europe. He is, I believe, 
 with the Saxons. Will they prove staunch in the 
 event of Prussian reverses ? I think they will, and 
 they are as gallant soldiers as ever fought witness 
 Problus and Priim.
 
 LETTERS FROM FRANCE, 1870-71. 
 
 26th July. The Crown Prince's staff start on 
 the evening of the 28th. He has gone this 
 morning to Munich and Stuttgard. I shall do all I 
 can to start with them ; horses are the difficulty. 
 I was put to such inconvenience in the last 
 campaign from being insufficiently mounted, 
 that I must be more particular to take animals 
 enough this time. As far as the Berlin news 
 goes, the war has commenced by shooting 
 Custom House officers and such small fry that can 
 lead to no good result, and they ought never to 
 throw away a man for nothing. I have just bought 
 the biggest beast you ever saw a great chestnut 
 mare, who appears to have only one idea, eating ; 
 she is ugly, but will keep my legs out of the mud. 
 Alvensleben comes through at 11 to-morrow, and 
 I hope to see him. 
 
 28th July. I have just seen Alvensleben, who 
 is on his way to take up quarters at Hanover. 
 I met him at the Gorlitzer station and had ten 
 minutes' chat. You must not expect to hear from 
 me for a few days, as we have a thirty hours' 
 journey before us, but I will write whenever I can. 
 
 Speyer, 30th July. I sent you off yesterday 
 from Cassel a batch of patriotic German songs 
 presented to me at the railway there, with other 
 refreshments, by two young ladies of the town. 
 Having an envelope in my pocket I thought it as 
 well not to miss the opportunity, as I had no time 
 for writing. We left Berlin at 9 p.m. on Thursday;
 
 Letters from France. 283 
 
 I found a place kept for me in the train, and a very 
 pleasant company during the journey, which lasted 
 forty hours, we having only reached Speyer (Spires) 
 at 1 p.m. to-day. However, I managed to sleep 
 pretty well through both nights, and except that 
 (owing to delays on the road) we got no dinner 
 yesterday till 4 o'clock this morning (there's a 
 bull for you), there was no lack of refreshment 
 along the road. Indeed there was a fat sergeant- 
 major of gendarmerie who beginning at Juterbogk 
 fairly eat his way to Speyer, where I saw him 
 finish with a large draught of water at one gulp. 
 According to my usual custom I have taken nothing 
 stronger than tea or coffee and eaten as little as 
 possible, so that I am quite fresh after the 40 hours' 
 purgatory. We travelled by Halle, Eisleberi, Nord- 
 hausen, Gottingen, Miindeii, Cassel, Giessen (where 
 we ought to have supped yesterday, but only arrived 
 at 4 a.m. to-day), Frankfort, Darmstadt, Mannheim, 
 and found the Crown Prince had arrived two hours 
 before us, having been to Munich, Stuttgard, and 
 Carlsruhe. He is now off to Germersheim, and only 
 returns at 7 p.m. The only people I have seen 
 are General Werder from Stettin and Prince 
 Leopold of Hohenzollern, with whom I have had 
 a long and interesting conversation. He assures 
 me that he refused the crown three times, and 
 only accepted at last very much against his own 
 inclination, and still more against that of his wife, 
 that the Prussian Government was in no way 
 concerned in the business, and that he only 
 obtained the King's consent as head of the family, 
 and not as his Sovereign. The King I hear leaves
 
 284 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 about Tuesday. The French have lost their oppor- 
 tunity. So much I may say. The greater part of 
 the harvest is gathered, and another harvest awaits 
 them. Germany is ready, is more united than 
 she was in 1813 ; gare le loup. It is a real hearty 
 enthusiasm which will outlive defeat, but will turn 
 victory into a terrible punishment. The beasts pretty 
 well, except Camionier, who has fretted himself 
 thin already. I am very comfortably lodged, and 
 have the horses here in the next house stable. 
 
 31s July, Speyer. Clean and decently clothed, 
 refreshed with food and sleep, and none the 
 worse for the long weary journey. The beasts 
 came very tolerably through, though the mare did 
 amuse herself kicking the others, fortunately with- 
 out doing much harm. This morning I have had 
 Cannonier in harness, and from henceforth he is 
 degraded to a beast of burden. I am very well 
 pleased with the chestnut mare, indeed she is 
 really a fine beast. She has also had a turn in the 
 cart, so that all four will ride and drive. Your 
 dear little brown fellow looks very jolly. I intend 
 to ride him often, but shall commit my fate chiefly 
 to old Punch and the mare. Fancy my horror 
 at being woke this morning at half-past 7 
 with the news that both my servants had disap- 
 peared. The stableman had overslept himself 
 and turned up at half-past 8 ; but the new 
 man was not found till after I had been 
 to the police, where he had been under safe 
 custody, having been found the worse for beer last 
 night and locked up till claimed, so that when I 
 came back from reporting myself to the Crown
 
 Letters from France. 285 
 
 Prince he was all right again. I am most com- 
 fortably put up in the house of a good Speyer 
 citizen, who takes ihe most fatherly care of me, 
 as indeed do the whole family, but I give them 
 as little trouble as possible. My meals will be 
 taken at the hotel, where the Staff are chiefly 
 lodged, This morning I breakfasted with Eulem- 
 burg. Count Harrach is with us as orderly officer, 
 much to the disgust of his pretty young wife and 
 many friends old and new. I have a capital sitting 
 and bedroom, the latter looking into a vineyard, 
 from which a black cat mews confidentially at my 
 open window. My hostess also gives me the best 
 coffee 1 have drunk for a long time, and such milk 
 and cream. The Bavarian troops have been march- 
 ing through in considerable numbers. They are 
 sturdy sunburnt fellows, and looked like work. 
 Everybody seems in good spirits, trusting in a 
 good cause, and looking hopefully to the result. 
 According to the newspapers at least half a dozen 
 actions have taken place. There have been none, 
 though a small party of Prussian lancers did blow 
 up a bridge on the only railway by which the 
 French can move troops from one flank to the 
 other, within their own frontier. A very gallant 
 enterprise, and very well performed, but the 
 rest have been simply patrol fights without the 
 smallest importance. I can of course give you no 
 information about the armies ; all dispositions must 
 remain a secret until the results to which they are 
 to lead have been accomplished. I don't know 
 where a single corps of the army is actually quartered, 
 except the Wiirtemburgers, and that I shall not
 
 286 Days of a Soldiers Life. 
 
 mention, but of ordinary occurrences and my own 
 doings I shall write as often as possible. We have 
 the same excellent civil postmaster as in '66 ; the 
 Crown Prince has also many of the same servants, 
 but Hanstein remains on account of his health. I 
 hope Wilhelm and my flannel shirts will turn up 
 some day, but I wish I had brought Pott and 
 Lancer ; still, with Punch and the mare, I ought to 
 get along. The new cart is rather high, but runs 
 very light, and would hold twice what I have 
 brought, though I have an ample kit. 
 
 August 1st, Speyer. The heat is enough to choke 
 a whole kennel of dogs. This morning I was woke 
 by a gentle rainfall and really hoped for some im- 
 provement, but by 7 o'clock it was as hot as ever 
 again. I am looking anxiously for letters, i have 
 received none, or papers, since I left Berlin. I 
 dined yesterday with the Crown Prince, where the 
 heat actually took my appetite away. To-day I am 
 happy to say I am free, and shall dine in peace at 
 the hotel when the others sup. You never saw 
 such kindly people as I am quartered with ; they 
 take as much care of me as if I were a child. The 
 beasts are all tolerable, Cannonier off his feed; of 
 course he begins to smell powder already. We 
 believe that the French got a thrashing on the 30th 
 before Saarbriicken, but all our news comes over 
 Berlin. Freyburg turned up here to-day, but serves 
 in some doubtful capacity on the Staff, not as 
 military attache ; he seemed somewhat dissatisfied 
 with his position. As you may suppose, the 
 apparent unfriendliness of our government has 
 excited great comment here. I have not had any
 
 Letters from France. 287 
 
 talk with the Crown Prince on the subject. Morier 
 was over here to-day from Darmstadt and brought a 
 Mr. Cartwright with him, whom he left at an hotel, 
 Avhile he went to the Crown Prince. Half an hour 
 later came an officer with Mr. Cartwright's pass- 
 port, saying, that as he had asked a great many 
 indiscreet questions he had left him under super- 
 vision, and had come to report. Of course on 
 Morier' s explanation all was made clear, but I took 
 the opportunity of warning him how foolish it was 
 to ask suspicious questions in time of war. Old 
 Steinmetz would probably have arrested him, which 
 would have been a pity. As it was, he enjoyed the 
 advantage of an introduction to the Crown Prince. 
 
 2nd August, Speyer. I had a ride yesterday, and 
 w r as nearly choked with the heat, at 7 p.m. I see 
 the papers most favourable to Germany have taken 
 exactly my view of the treaty question, "rogues 
 all," and we soldiers have to redress the abomina- 
 tions which the diplomatists commit. I forgot to 
 tell you that the day before yesterday, while we 
 were at dinner, Sir H. arid Lady H. appeared and 
 demanded an audience of the Crown Prince, which 
 of course he could not then grant. Sir H. H. was 
 in uniform. He was told by Schleinitz that I was 
 here, and advised him to see me, but I have neither 
 seen nor heard anything of them, so conclude they 
 must be gone. They both wanted to make the 
 campaign with head-quarters, at least so Schleinitz 
 understood them. I much like the young Prince of 
 Saxe-Weimar, who I think has taken a liking to 
 me also, and asks for practice in speaking English, 
 and lessons in campaigning. He is a frank, modest
 
 288 Days of a Soldiers Life. 
 
 young man, who is not too proud to learn, comes 
 of a good stock, and will do credit to the name. 
 My host and hostess went last night to meet their 
 son, who is a one-year volunteer in the Bavarian 
 artillery. I hope he may return in safety to these 
 kindly people. There is no great enthusiasm here, 
 but they don't want the French. 
 
 Rambach, near Landau, 3rd August. Late last 
 night we received the order to march at 8 o'clock 
 this morning, so here I am, lodged in a peasant's 
 house, where if I stay over to-night I shall certainly 
 die of a surfeit, as the good people have the idea 
 that when I am not eating I must be drinking, and 
 have already stuffed me to that extent that I feel 
 like a prize pig. We are about an English mile 
 from Landau, where head-quarters are, but there is 
 no room for outsiders. Our ride to-day was about 
 eighteen miles, and I rode that sainted animal 
 Punch, who behaved like a sweet creature as he 
 is. Yesterday I rode the little brown for the first 
 time, and liked him very much, though he was a 
 little difficult at first starting. We rode through a 
 nice wood called the Nonnenwald, about a mile 
 from Speyer, and by the time we got home were 
 on the best of terms. The mare I bought before 
 starting is the biggest beast I ever saw. She won't 
 ride, and is very disagreeable to drive, so that I 
 really hardly know what function she fulfils in this 
 world. I wish I were rid of her. News is scant, 
 but we hear that the French took Saarbriicken 
 yesterday or the day before, and are over the 
 frontier in the strength of two corps (probably 
 Bazaine's command), just as I expected, towards
 
 Letters from France. 289 
 
 Trier ; and as they don't know that the Prussian 
 army is not only mobile but in position, and as 
 they are just between Prince F. Carl and old 
 Stein metz, the chances are in favour of their 
 getting a clawing. I yesterday got two papers, 
 but no letters ; I am getting very greedy for 
 news from home. I expect from henceforth my 
 life will be a lively one, and I have not dared 
 to give myself the luxury of a clean shirt to-day, 
 but have gone into my only flannel one, which 
 
 is moreover rather moth-eaten. D the flies ! 
 
 how close it is. I have just been fraternising 
 with the 6th Lancers, whom I knew in '65 at 
 Merseburg, and expect to meet many friends in 
 a day or two. I also hear (of which I am very 
 glad) that the 1st and 6th Corps are coming to 
 us. The Crown Prince will then have under him 
 the Bavarians, Wiirtemburgers, Badeners, Hessians, 
 and four Prussian corps over 200,000 men. I see 
 in the English papers that General le Boeuf reports 
 having scattered a reconnoitring column ! It 
 consisted of four officers and three men. One 
 of the officers, a Mr. Winsloe, in the Baden 
 service, was killed, and two were taken prisoners. 
 They had most unwarily gone into an inn to 
 refresh, and were surprised a foolish act, for 
 which they have paid dearly. It is certainly a 
 most extraordinary proof of Prussian organisa- 
 tion, to think that most of the regiments were 
 mobilised in nine days, and that sixteen days 
 has sufficed to place a force fully equal to any- 
 thing France can produce on the threatened 
 frontier. The harvest has been gathered under 
 
 u
 
 290 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 cover of this force, and up to the present time 
 Prance has gained no advantage whatever from 
 the invasion (which has not taken place). Had 
 the French thrown an army into the south con- 
 temporaneously with the rupture of diplomatic 
 relations, Bavaria and Wiirtemberg would probably 
 not have now been mobilised. As it is they are 
 just as prepared as the Prussians. The Bavarians 
 are most serviceable-looking men, but they don't 
 march well. I left my kind hosts in Speyer with 
 much regret. Their kindness was beyond measure. 
 Indeed I like much what I have seen of the 
 Palatinate, and I cordially hope that the horrors 
 of war may be kept from their doors. We march 
 at 5 a.m. to-morrow. 
 
 Sulz, Bas Hhin, 5th August, 1870. I sent off a 
 scrap this morning from a place called Kapsweger. 
 There was a small fight yesterday. The French 
 had occupied Weissenburg, a partly fortified place, 
 and had a very strong position on some heights 
 close to it. Weissenburg was attacked by the 
 Bavarians, who expended a great deal of ammuni- 
 tion, but only succeeded in taking it after about 
 three hours' fig-hting 1 . There was a division eng-ag-ed 
 
 o o o o 
 
 under Count Bothmer. The Prussians came up on 
 the flank with two brigades of the 5th and the 
 advance guard of the llth Division, and attacked 
 Altstadt and the heights. This was a brilliantly 
 conducted affair, and resulted in the French (eleven 
 or twelve battalions, two regiments of cavalry, three 
 batteries, and a mitrailleuse battery) withdrawing 
 with the loss of their general killed, about 500 
 wounded and killed, the whole of their baggage
 
 Letters from France. 291 
 
 and commissariat, one gun, and a very considerable 
 number of prisoners, not under 800 or over 1,200, 
 but certainly the former, as I cannot make out 
 whether it is inclusive or not of those taken by the 
 Bavarians in Weissenburg. We of course were not 
 engaged, but I saw the fight very well, and have 
 never seen anything more perfect than the Prussian 
 advance to take the heights. The French also 
 deserve the greatest credit for a most skilfully 
 conducted and very brave defence. The cavalry 
 on both sides did nothing, and I cannot learn that 
 the mitrailleuses were used with any remarkable 
 effect. The Prussian losses are very severe, I 
 don't think much under 800 men. General von 
 Kirkbach, commanding 5th Corps, slightly wounded, 
 five or six field officers killed and wounded, and I 
 should think a total of about 40 officers. But the 
 position had to be taken, as it opened the entry of 
 the third army into France. Our march to-day 
 was not very long, but a very hot one, and I never 
 saw so many stragglers as the 82nd Regiment 
 dropped behind it. I do not known whether we 
 shall fight to-morrow, but I expect it, indeed it is 
 difficult to say whether the main force lies near 
 Haguenau or towards Bitche. I have hardly been 
 washed for three days, and don't know what a 
 clean shirt means, but am remarkably well, and 
 have slept for two nights in the oddest of beds. 
 To-night I have a most luxurious one ; but it is 
 5 p.m. and no baggage yet, so that I am. writing on 
 paper that I have found in my quarters, apparently 
 the lodging of a French official in the tobacco 
 department and his family ; the only tidy part of 
 
 u 2
 
 292 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 the establishment are two beds. The house belongs 
 to a baker, whose wife has cooked us some beef and 
 potatoes, which, with a salad of doubtful character, 
 I and my companion (the tutor of Prince William) 
 consumed at 2 p.m. The inhabitants have here 
 wisely remained in their houses, and are indeed 
 quite as much German as French. I want my two 
 flannel shirts badly, in other respects I am very 
 well off if the bag-gage would only come up. The 
 mare is the greatest beast I ever saw ; she fell over 
 with the cart yesterday and broke both shafts, so 
 that 1 only got my baggage at 9 o'clock p.m. I 
 fear that the feeling against England is very bad, 
 indeed the Crown Prince told me yesterday that a 
 demonstration against England is expected in 
 Berlin. If that is the case my position with the 
 army will become a very difficult one, and I may 
 not find it possible to continue with the Crown 
 Prince. I expect Russell very shortly, as he lias 
 left the King to come to the Crown Prince. Oh, 
 these flies! they really are too dreadful. Carmonier 
 has been promoted again for good conduct on the 
 field, and I rode him to-day; the other horses are 
 quite well. 
 
 Suly, 6th August. A complete victory to-day 
 over a force estimated at 60,000 men, supposed to 
 be under MacMahon, at the town of Wiirth. I was 
 up in time to join the Crown Prince on the ground, 
 and had his thanks for my anxiety to be at his side. 
 The losses must be fearful, but the French must 
 have had greater. 5th and llth Corps principally 
 engaged. The advance of the llth was a picture. 
 
 Suly, 7th August. What do you think of 2
 
 Letters from France. 293 
 
 eagles, 6 mitrailleuses, 36 guns, the whole of 
 the baggage and camp equipage, and 10,000 
 wounded and unwounded prisoners. MacMahon 
 had collected six or seven divisions from his and 
 other corps, and had a position far more for- 
 midable than that of the 4th. But the Prussian 
 losses are fearful. The 7th Regiment has lost all its 
 officers but 9, having had 84, and others are nearly 
 as much knocked about. The joy is, that the dear 
 Crown Prince has gained this important victory. 
 How my heart beat when he said, giving me his 
 hand, " My pleasure is great at having you at my 
 side in such a moment of victory." There will 
 probably be a heavy fight near Saargemiinden or 
 St. Avoid, if there is not a revolution in France. 
 
 Merzweiler, Sth August. I am driven nearly 
 mad with the flies, which are taking their full 
 revenge on me for the Prussian invasion, but must 
 manage a line to you. We marched this morning 
 from Suly in heavy rain, not sorry to leave a place 
 which began to smell of dead men, but only to have 
 our noses poisoned by still more horrible smells as 
 we crossed one flank of the battle-ground of the 6th. 
 The Duke of Magenta has sustained a defeat which 
 ended in a rout, and the Crown Prince has beaten 
 the best soldier in France. We hear also that old 
 Steinmetz has inflicted severe chastisement on 
 General Frossard, and we are since yesterday in 
 connection with Prince F. Carl. What a sight 
 I have seen this morning. Two regiments of 
 French cuirassiers and two squadrons of lancers, 
 the finest men I ever saw, were totally destroyed 
 on the 6th, near the village of Morsbroun, about
 
 294 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 three and a half miles from hence. It appears that 
 they were ordered to attack infantry in the vine- 
 yards, and all who were not taken prisoners were 
 either killed or wounded, absolutely such a frag- 
 ment escaping, that it may be said none got away. 
 I never witnessed anything like the debris of this 
 fight, and do not wonder at the utter misery shown 
 by the poor colonel of one of the regiments, who 
 had implored his idiot of a brigadier, not to 
 sacrifice them so uselessly. I must have seen 
 hundreds of cuirasses, swords, lances, helmets, 
 czapkas and horse appointments, which strewed the 
 fields and roads for more than a mile. Horrible 
 war ! I am here, in the sole room of a peasant's 
 hut, who was formerly in the French 5th Hussars, 
 and served in Mexico. The moment I arrived he 
 fell to work to clean my sword, and his wife is now 
 washing my three-days-old shirt and etceteras. 
 But oh, these flies ! they are too bad. I met one 
 officer Tendering about, and he told me that he 
 could not bear the flies in solitude, so was going to 
 the village pothouse. It is rough work, I can tell 
 you. I have been pigging for two nights with 
 Russell and his companion, but then I had a fine 
 bed, on which the evacuating family had been good 
 enough to leave clean sheets. The Prussian losses 
 are awful. I dread to ask after any one I knew ; but 
 the 6th Corps are already partially up, and I hope 
 the 1st will follow before long. We hear curious 
 stories of crinolines and other female gear having 
 been found among the plunder of the 6th ; but what 
 is still better, the Bavarians got hold of MacMahon's 
 fourgon, with some most important despatches in
 
 Letters from France. 295 
 
 cypher, and the translation. Only think, the 
 French have neither destroyed railway nor tele- 
 graph, so that the Prussians are talking with Berlin, 
 on the French wires. They are as completely sur- 
 prised as the Austrian s were in 1866, but the 
 fighting is something quite different, and breech- 
 loader against breechloader is awful work. The 
 horses are well. Dear old Punch behaved like an 
 angel on the 6th, though the fire, when I first got 
 on the field, was enough to make any horse start. 
 I never was better in my life at least ten years 
 younger since I took to my present rough ways. 
 
 In Alsace, 10h August. We are in a charming 
 country German, and almost entirely Protestant ; 
 and though I will not insult the people by saying 
 that they are favourable to the Prussians, they are 
 as civil as can be, and, as they hardly speak a word 
 of French, we get on extremely well. On one day 
 I was quartered with a former French soldier (5th 
 Hussars), a good-looking young fellow, with a 
 pretty but not very tidy young wife, who did all 
 they could to make me comfortable, but they had 
 such an importation of fleas in their guest-bed as 
 I have seldom seen. Yesterday I lived with a 
 comfortable farmer named Fintz, who took the 
 greatest care of us all. After showing me the 
 photographs of his family, I showed him Alice's, 
 with which they were all highly delighted. "When 
 I left this morning I gave him eight francs. He 
 said, " Well, that is too much, but, as I am not 
 poor, I will divide it with my poorer neighbours." 
 Was not that a nice trait P It is such a comfort 
 having Wilhelm, as, though the other men were
 
 296 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 very attentive, they did not understand keeping 
 me tidy ; and besides, they have plenty to do. 
 You never saw such a beast as the mare is. She 
 won't ride; I only tried her once, when she sat 
 down in every ditch ; and she won't drive. 
 Pleasant animal ! So I am badly off in the horse 
 line. The other beasts are all well. I got a real 
 dinner yesterday, the first for two days, as, now we 
 have got a little into order, I live with the Crown 
 Prince. But you never saw such a crowd as the 
 head- quarters is. We have at least half a dozen 
 totally useless princes, each with twice as many 
 horses and servants as I have, not to speak of the 
 Duke of Coburg, who has five carriages and seven- 
 teen horses, and complains that he has nothing to 
 eat. About thirty waggons belonging to French 
 officers were found abandoned yesterday close to 
 our quarters. I did not see them, but am told that 
 they were filled with purple and fine linen (I 
 mean fine uniforms and dress shirts, but that the 
 socks were all in rags), books, wine, and other 
 campaigning luxuries. We are somewhat simpler, 
 and live on what we can get. Marshal MacMahon 
 lost the whole of his private baggage on the 6th, 
 and some very important papers. He arrived at 6 
 in the evening at the railway station of Niederbroun 
 almost alone. This I have from the traffic director 
 of that part of the line, who came into head-quarters 
 the day before yesterday. Even this will give you 
 no clue to where we are. General von Alvenslebeii 
 of the Guard has the 3rd Corps. The division 
 Frossard got a beating on the 6th near Saarbriicken 
 and lost 900 prisoners. We must have wounded and
 
 Letters from France. 297 
 
 un wounded between 11,000 and 12,000 I know of 
 7,000 unwounded and the French left 5,000 killed 
 and wounded on the ground at Worth . I should 
 have liked to take one of the fine French cuirassier 
 swords ; they lay in hundreds at the place where 
 the Heavy Brigade was destroyed, but the cart was 
 a long way behind ; besides which, I don't like 
 taking anything. Pray say, if you are asked, that 
 the gallantry of the French has been as great as 
 can be conceived, but they have always been out- 
 manceuvered, and both on the 4th and 6th 
 completely outflanked by the skilful leading of 
 the Crown Prince. I fancy the whole thing is a 
 complete surprise to them, both politically and 
 strategically. Besides all this, the Prussian in- 
 fantry have shown just as much dash as the French, 
 and their determined attacks are the most wonderful 
 soldiering I have ever seen. The Crown Prince 
 said yesterday at dinner, " I am so sorry for 
 MacMahon, as I liked him so much." The young 
 Grand Duke of Strelitz is very nice, and heartily 
 friendly to me. He has annexed two dogs, evi- 
 dently pet dogs of some French regiment. I quite 
 forgot to ask him after them this morning. 
 
 ~L~Lth August. We have had continual rain lately. 
 For three nights it has rained in torrents, and last 
 night I could have fancied myself in the west of 
 Ireland. It is dreadful for the troops in bivouac. 
 It is, however, almost better than the dreadful heat 
 which preceded it. To-day it is quite cool, and I 
 hope that the rain has exhausted itself. I walked 
 over this afternoon and paid a visit to the young 
 Grand Duke of Strelitz and Prince William of
 
 298 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 Wurtemberg, who with others, including our own 
 correspondents, are quartered about a mile from us. 
 Mr. Landclls and Mr. Skinner walked back with 
 me. The constant damp has not agreed with me, 
 or perhaps it is the awful wine which they make in 
 this country, and which is all that can be got to 
 drink except a beer which is worse, so that I am 
 very sorry that I did not bring some chlorodyne 
 with me. Such a slaughter going on all day under 
 my windows ducks, geese, and chickens for the 
 head-quarter mess; and as all the boys in the village 
 collect to see the murder done, you may guess what 
 a quacking, gabbling, and chattering goes on. I 
 hope we shall soon see a town again where I can 
 buy a little brandy, as I came away from Berlin 
 without stores of any kind. In fact it was such a 
 hustle that it is a providence I got away at all. If 
 I had not, I should have missed the two fights of 
 the 4th and 6th, and you know that would not 
 have been pleasant to me. I had a talk to-day witli 
 the Crown Prince about forced requisitions on the 
 people, which are not only so cruel, but so 
 thoroughly impolitic. They have for result that 
 the people hide all their provisions; whereas, if 
 they were paid for on the nail, and the amount 
 delivered to their own government after the war, 
 supplies would be plentiful, and there would be no 
 discontented peasantry on a possible line of retreat. 
 There is the sun peeping out ! What a blessing ! 
 I must tidy up a bit for dinner. Chop, chop, more 
 heads off. We shall surely become feathered our- 
 selves if this goes on much longer. The Duke of 
 Strelitz's two dogs have forsaken him again.
 
 Letters from France. 299 
 
 August \Wi. I find there is no longer any 
 reason for mystery as to our proceedings. We are 
 now in a small village called Petersbach, about 
 twelve English miles east of the Saar, and on the 
 western slope of the Vosges Mountains. Nearly 
 the whole army is in our front, and our own cavalry 
 is already feeling Luneville. We have been here 
 since the day before yesterday (having marched oil 
 that day about eighteen miles), where I have the 
 comfortable quarter in the farmer's house. On the 
 march we passed, about four miles from hence, a 
 little mountain fortress called " La petite Pierre," 
 which had fortunately been abandoned without 
 resistance by the French, as it completely com- 
 manded our road ; and though we might have got 
 by on devious paths, our luggage would not have 
 got through in half as many days as it really took 
 hours. Another small fortress called Lichtenberg, 
 about six miles due north of Obermoddern, also 
 surrendered after bombardment by the Wiirtemberg 
 Division, but Bitche and Pfalzburg both hold out. 
 To-morrow we shall be at Saarburg. This is but a 
 poor place, but as I have a room to myself I cannot 
 complain. Further than which I get two good 
 meals a day if the wines were not so pinching 
 they would be pleasanter and as the weather 
 appears to be on the mend, I hope we shall have 
 no more such wet marches. The French evidently 
 do not intend to fight on the Saar, but on the Mosel ; 
 where I cannot conjecture, but only hope that it 
 may not be a drawn battle, but a defeat. That 
 will at least settle the question that the remainder 
 of the war will be carried on in France and not in
 
 3oo Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 Germany. This population is German, almost 
 exclusively so, almost entirely Protestant, and so 
 little French is spoken that without German it 
 would be difficult to get on. The more 1 hear of 
 the results of the 6th, the more aware do I become 
 how dearly this important victory has been pur- 
 chased. The 2nd Prussian Corps, the Bavarians, 
 and the small corps of Wurtemberg's lost 10,000 
 in killed and wounded. I think that in killed, 
 wounded, and prisoners (wounded and unwounded) 
 MacMahon must have lost 15,000. As we shall be 
 from to-morrow among a more French, and conse- 
 quently hostile, population, my letters will pro- 
 bably arrive much less regularly. As to yours, I 
 shall be thankful if I get any at all. Fabre arrived 
 to-day, but has lost all his baggage. I shall be 
 able to help him a little, as I am tolerably well 
 supplied, and as I have had everything washed 
 here shall start fresh to-morrow. I am all right 
 again, my seediness of yesterday being evidently 
 produced by two lots of a pernicious white wine 
 which I had at luncheon. 
 
 Luneville, ~L5t/i August. On Saturday we 
 inarched to Tanebourg, where we were lodged in 
 the Hotel de 1'Aboridance, where there were more 
 guests than food, and respecting which place there 
 is little to say. Yesterday we marched to Blamont, 
 where I was quartered on a respectable linen- 
 draper named Cloud, who made me very comfort- 
 able, and who spoke very fair English, having been 
 for some time in America. His wife fed me, and 
 gave me capital coffee. His niece mended my 
 gloves, and 1 left them this morning with mutual
 
 Letters from France. 301 
 
 good wishes. Here I am lodged with a family 
 which appears to have no man in it. There is an 
 elderly lady who is mistress of the house, then a 
 lady about thirty-five, whether widow or not I 
 have not yet found out, a fine lad of about fourteen, 
 and three sisters about twelve, ten, seven. I have 
 been shaved by the most talkative of barbers. 
 Fortunately for me, he did not become excited 
 on the subject of the Emperor and his ministers 
 till he had finished me, but I thought he would 
 have cut off Schleinitz's ears while he was alter- 
 nately cutting his hair and abusing all the 
 authorities in his native land who had brought 
 the misery of war on La Belle Prance. A deuced 
 ugly country it is now we have got fairly 
 into it. Curious to say, not only does my land- 
 lady speak very fair German, but the maid of the 
 house also ; but I have already commenced talking 
 with great fluency a language which passes for the 
 purest Parisian French. This seems a niceish 
 place, and as soon as I am clean I intend to go out 
 exploring, and pay a visit to the daughter and son- 
 in-law of Monsieur Cloud, who live here in constant 
 dread of being eaten by the Prussians. At 7 I dine 
 with the Crown Prince. I have had two or three 
 such interesting conversations with him lately. He 
 is extremely averse to any annexation of Alsace, 
 which is, however, so thoroughly German that I can 
 hardly believe others will resist the temptation. 
 The people have really nothing French about them 
 but the fact that they belong to a province called 
 Alsace. I am glad to learn that I sent Alvensleben 
 away happy. I gave him a good luncheon, two
 
 302 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 bottles of sherry, a box of cigars, my blessing, and 
 my opinion on diplomatists in general and some in 
 particular. Our English colony consists of Russell 
 and his attendant, Lord R. Gower, Mr. Landells, 
 and Mr. Skinner of the Daily News. Lord R. Gower 
 still hangs on, though he must see that it might 
 cause much embarrassment, his persisting in re- 
 maining with the army. In general our marches 
 are delightful, only that the party is a little too 
 large. We start at 8, pull up generally in a wood 
 for an hour's halt about 10 or 11 o'clock, where we 
 lunch and smoke while the escort are resting, and 
 get in from 12 to 2 according to the length of the 
 day's journey. But where are the French ? I wish 
 you could tell us. We hear all sorts of rumours. 
 That the Prince Imperial is in England. That the 
 Emperor has given up the command to Marshal 
 Bazaine. That the French will concentrate at 
 Chalons, or even nearer Paris. That the new War 
 Minister (that robber Montauban) is preaching a 
 crusade against the Prussians. But news comes so 
 slowly, and in such scraps, that I believe nothing, 
 and have even given up thinking about anything 
 except whether I shall get some hard eggs to carry 
 with me on the march, and whether I shall get my 
 clothes back from the wash before I start. I am 
 all right again, the beasts ditto, and Punch fatter 
 and jollier than ever. 
 
 Luneville, ~L6th August. When one has nothing 
 particular to do one's thoughts naturally turn 
 homewards, so I shall commence a letter to be 
 finished to-morrow at Nancy. The Crown Prince 
 is going to drive over there this afternoon so as
 
 Letters from France. 303 
 
 to meet the King to-morrow at Pont a Mousson, 
 and then comes back to us. I had such a bed last 
 night, at least seven feet long, and as comfortable 
 as the one at Lille, which I always prate of. I 
 tumbled into it soon after 9, and did not crawl out 
 again till S had struck this morning, I explored 
 the town and found a cafe, where I had a capital 
 breakfast, visited the beasts, and have since been 
 sitting in a garden with the Crown Prince. Now 
 I must go and take a cup of coffee with my hostess. 
 I have made out that her name is Emmanuel, the 
 second lady is Frau von Oppenheim, with her three 
 children, " et voila tout." The air of France is 
 already improving my French, and I have no doubt 
 in another week or two I shall be quite a professor. 
 Old Steinmetz beat the French again on the 14th, but 
 with a loss to his two corps of 2,000 men killed and 
 wounded. We can only conjecture that the French 
 army is in the direction of Chalons, and I dare say 
 you know more about their movements than any of 
 us. I have heard nothing of George Alvensleben, 
 but fancy his division may be employed elsewhere 
 than in Hanover ; where it would be imprudent to 
 say, though I dare say you know already. I have 
 got three of the most delightful French caricatures 
 you ever saw. which I shall keep, as they are real 
 curiosities. 
 
 Nancy, 18^ August. Another defeat of the 
 French on the 16th. The 3rd Corps was fighting 
 all day. Towards midday the 10th got up and 
 one brigade of the 8th, and they had the satisfac- 
 tion of beating the French out of their position, 
 covering the road to Verdun, and throwing them
 
 304 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 back to Metz. This morning the King intended 
 to attack again with a great part of the 1st and 2nd 
 armies, and we wait anxiously for the results. Of 
 course we have nothing to do with it, as the fighting 
 is thirty-five miles from us, and our order is to 
 march straight on Paris. To-morrow we move 
 on. This afternoon I have been horse-hunting, and 
 have succeeded in finding a great strong beast for 
 twenty-four pounds, so I am quite set up again. 
 He really is rather like Punch, only not so hand- 
 some, and will pull the cart. Dear Punch will 
 now become my best riding horse. The other 
 beast has become quite wise. He is still a little 
 fidgety, but soon calms down. This is a very 
 fine town, and I believe full of remarkable objects, 
 but what between telegraphing to England and 
 buying the horse I have had no time for sight- 
 seeing. I quite omitted to say that the results of 
 the fight on the 16th (at Gorze) were 2 eagles, 6 
 guns, 3,000 prisoners. 
 
 Nancy, ~L9tk August. Another day's delay in 
 Nancy, for which we must march thirty miles to- 
 morrow. We wait further news of the fighting 
 before Metz, which has been not only fierce but 
 most important. The losses of the 16th are awful. 
 It appears that the 3rd Corps was for several hours 
 almost unsupported, against a great part of the 
 French army, and the cavalry was at last compelled 
 to make a Balaclava charge, so as to hold the 
 ground till the 10th Corps came up. 1st and 2nd 
 Dragoons of the Guard suffered fearfully. I hear 
 of Finkenstein (Colonel), Hindenburg, and John of 
 the 2nd, either dead or badly wounded. Of the
 
 Letters from France. 305 
 
 1st, Auerswald (Colonel), Kleist (Prince George's 
 aide-de-camp), Prince Reuss, George Wesdelen, 
 and Westarp, either dead or dangerously wounded. 
 But the success was great, and yesterday the army 
 attacked again, and beat back the French main 
 army till they stood with their backs to the Mosel, 
 and the Prussians across the road to Paris. If all 
 turns out well to-day, the French army will either 
 have to retire into Metz or to force its way into 
 some other route to Chalons-sur-Marne. I have 
 just seen a young Englishman, named Vizetelly, 
 who is writing for the New York Herald, who tells 
 me that he was with Frossard between Forbach 
 and Saarbriiken. That after occupying Saarbriiken 
 on the 2nd, where the Prussians had only about 
 1,500 men, Frossard never reconnoitred the woods, 
 and was therefore completely taken by surprise 
 when the Prussians debouched on his flank during; 
 
 o 
 
 the fight of the 6th, in which he was completely 
 defeated. It is awful work, but cannot last much 
 longer. The weather is cool and pleasant, with 
 signs of rain, which will be very acceptable. I 
 have not seen a single sight here. You know I 
 don't care much for sight-seeing, and now I am too 
 busy. Sir W. Dilke and Mr. Auberon Herbert 
 arrived here this morning at Johanniters. I 
 hear that young Campbell, of the 7th Cuirassiers, 
 captured a standard on the 16th. We have as yet 
 no details of the 18th, nor shall we till late to-night, 
 but I understand that the losses were comparatively 
 small. Torrents of rain. I have very pleasant 
 companions in Messrs. Landells and Skinner, and 
 the Staff treat me as one of themselves, so that my 
 
 x
 
 306 Days of a Soldiers Life. 
 
 life is on the whole very cheery. I have sold the 
 big mare for thirty pounds, and as I only gave 
 twenty-four pounds for Golumpus, government will 
 not lose much in the long run. 
 
 Vaucouleurs, Meuse, 20th August. I have so 
 much interesting to relate, that, even under the 
 difficulties of writing on a window-ledge with half 
 a dozen people screaming at the top of their voices, 
 I must try to write a line for to-day's post. The 
 French main army is we believe shut up in the lines 
 of Metz, with the Prussian armies across the road to 
 Paris, and a corps and a half watching that they 
 do not break out on the eastern bank of the Mosel ; 
 while we are marching on Chalons with a reinforce- 
 ment of the Gruard, the Saxons, and another corps, 
 with two divisions of cavalry, in the hope of finding 
 and beating what is supposed to be collected there. 
 It is one of the most extraordinary situations which 
 has ever occurred, and I firmly believe if this coup 
 succeeds the campaign is ended. We have ridden 
 thirty miles to-day in such a dust as I have seldom 
 seen. Alvensleben is I hear on his way to Strasburg, 
 and is very well. Hanstein, who brought letters 
 from the Crown Princess, saw him in Hagenau. 
 We halt here to-morrow to enable the reinforce- 
 ments to get well on the road. I am dirty, but 
 immensely jolly, as Charlie would say. 
 
 August 22nd. I hope you received a scrap which 
 I wrote on the 20th. Here we are still, and whether 
 we march or halt to-morrow seems doubtful, as a 
 great concentration of troops is taking place, and 
 bodies of men cannot move as fast as we do. This 
 is a wretched hole, and as our posts seem to
 
 Letters from France. 307 
 
 have stopped again, life is rather dreary. I have, 
 however, got a capital quarter in a very quiet 
 house, and have room to look round me a bit and 
 write, &c , which I have not been able to do as 
 long as I was doubled up. The new beast was so 
 much knocked up by our forced march he did 
 nearly thirty -five miles, as the baggage had to go 
 round by the bridge of Pont St. Vincent that I 
 have been obliged to have him bled and physicked, 
 so after all the halt is not inopportune. Yesterday 
 who should turn up but Edmund Witzleben, who is 
 halted near Vaucouleurs with a column of ammuni- 
 tion which he has in charge. He was looking very 
 thriving, and appeared highly disgusted witli his 
 occupation. I hardly like to begin writing of 
 the losses of the 16th. Erckert is dead, Count 
 Finkenstein is dead; Roeder, 1st Guards, George 
 Schmeling, Guarde Fusilier, Zieten, 3rd Hussars, 
 little Reuss, Wesdelen, Hindenburg, Kanitz, are 
 wounded ; and such a list of others that it is quite 
 sickening. We shall have a hard nut to crack 
 before Chalons, but I hope after these fearful losses 
 more care will be taken, and that the French will 
 be manceuvered into the open, and then disposed of. 
 I have had a deal of bother with a nasty super- 
 cilious young whelp, who arrived here and per- 
 sisted in remaining, after having been told by the 
 Crown Prince that he was superfluous, and he has 
 excited universal disgust by his impertinence ; as he 
 would not take the hints given by the Crown Prince, 
 I was to explain to him, that if he persisted in 
 remaining where he was not wanted, it would be 
 disagreeable for him. I conclude that Alvonsleben 
 
 x 2
 
 308 Days of a Soldiers Life. 
 
 is at Pfalzburg, but I do not know; indeed, the 
 operations are on so vast a scale that no one bothers 
 himself about knowing where any one under the 
 rank of a general of division is stationed. 
 
 Lif/ny, 23rd August. Such a wet march as we 
 had to-day. I was roused early this morning by the 
 intelligence that the new horse was dying ; the poor 
 beast got inflammation of the lungs on the thirteen 
 hours' march of the 20th, and went off so rapidly 
 that he was dead before we left Vaucouleurs, so 
 that I had to put old Punch into the cart again. 
 Fortunately the other beasts are all three in the 
 most thriving condition ; indeed I never saw them 
 looking better, and little Brownie is fatter than 
 when he left Berlin. We had a good march of 
 about twenty-four miles, and fortunately it cleared 
 up in time for us to get a good view of this 
 very prettily situated town. I am established at 
 the Hotel Tete d'Or, kept by the Veuve Robert, 
 and am tolerably lodged ; ditto Wilhelm, to whom 
 the landlady has given a room to himself. We halt 
 here to-morrow, and then march to Allionville (or 
 something of the sort) ; but now I am mapless, 
 except a great railway map of Europe, on which, 
 however, I find both Vaucouleurs and Ligny. 
 I believe the King is behind us, and that he was 
 yesterday at Nancy. The Crown Prince told me 
 this morning that his father was so shattered by the 
 losses of so many friends on the 16th and 18th that 
 he became quite nervous, but that he had recovered, 
 and was now himself again. 
 
 247* August. This is not half a bad place if 
 there were but a little more of the necessaries of
 
 Letters from France. 309 
 
 life to be had, but we are eaten up by a swarm of 
 Bavarians, who loll over the town in all directions, 
 and sit in the places where meat or drink is to be 
 obtained all day long, therefore a nuisance of the 
 first water. I never saw such dawdling sloppy 
 people in my life. Their clothes look as if they 
 belonged to some one else, their accoutrements as 
 if they belonged to any one but the man who wears 
 them, and thay march as if they had peas in their 
 shoes. However, they are generally quiet and well- 
 behaved and civil in their manner. I don't think 
 that the main attack at Chalons should be entrusted 
 to these Bundes Briiders, though it is rather hard 
 to take it out of the Prussians on all occasions when 
 real fighting is required. I hope Alvensleben will 
 be sent on in time to see the great fight, for either 
 there must be a great battle soon or the French 
 Empire will collapse, and that is just what nobody 
 wants. What liars they are ! Will you contradict 
 on my authority a statement made by M. Cahien, 
 the correspondent of the Gaulois, who was taken 
 prisoner at Wiirth, that his money was taken 
 from him and was not returned when he 
 was released ? All belonging to him was 
 put into a bag, which was sealed, and the 
 contents, amounting to over 3,000 francs, were 
 given to him again by Winterfeld, who is com- 
 mandant at head- quarters. The same with his 
 companion, the correspondent of Figaro. His 
 statement has been copied into several papers, and 
 should it appear in England I should like you to 
 get some friend to put a contradiction into the 
 papers. It is a most malicious and ungrateful lie;
 
 310 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 the more so that Winterfeld saved the hound's life. 
 He was found in the town, which had been taken 
 by storm, and got well thrashed by the soldiers, 
 who were exasperated at having been fired on from 
 the houses ; but the story about his money is an 
 infamous fabrication. The King is to pass through 
 this afternoon. The King just off again, after a 
 stay of two hours. He received me most warmly, 
 and I have just telegraphed to the Queen that he 
 has passed through in excellent health ; and the 
 still more astonishing news that the French army 
 has left Chalons and is marching towards Rheirns. 
 We remain to-morrow here, then to St. Dizier, 
 and further; I have seen many friends with the 
 King. Bismarck's eldest son was wounded on the 
 16th, also Dr. Lauers. The brutality of the French 
 to the wounded Prussians, particularly officers, is 
 horrible. Troops marching through the whole day, 
 chiefly Bavarians. Four French corps (infantry) 
 are shut up in Metz, with seven corps to watch 
 them. The rest of the army, and the cavalry, 
 are the object of the present movement, if it does 
 not all end in general smash. Austria seems to 
 have rendered itself suspected. Where is the 
 French fleet, and what is it doing ? 1 hear that 
 the French claim the 16th and 18th (before Metz) 
 as victories. The simple answer to which is, that 
 on the 16th they lost one road to Paris, and on 
 the 18th the other. This may be a strategic 
 advantage, but I am too stupid to see it. The 
 Prussians have had the advantage of numbers, the 
 French of position, in nearly every battle, and I 
 have yet to learn that the old rule of war "with
 
 Letters from France. 3 1 1 
 
 equal numbers to be able to produce a superior 
 force at the decisive point " which has been 
 accepted for so many years has now been abrogated. 
 But on the 16th General v. Alvensleben with the 
 3rd Corps had to stand the attack of three French 
 corps, for more than four hours, and did it well. 
 This was a horrid blunder on the part of Prince 
 F. Carl, who had equal numbers, and yet sent 
 an inferior force in this difficulty. The Crown 
 Prince, on the contrary, has won both his fights 
 by the skill with which he and Blumenthal have 
 always brought the numbers required to make 
 success certain. This is a very prettily situated 
 town, and I shall go out for a good ride this after- 
 noon. The longer and more fatiguing the marches 
 the fresher do I feel the next day. I have no 
 rheumatism, and only feel seedy when I am such 
 an idiot as to drink green champagne or other 
 beastliness indigenous to the country. 
 
 27th August, Revigny aux VacTies. Lodged in a 
 charming villa at the entrance of the village, so 
 quiet that I can hardly believe in the rough game 
 we are now engaged in, I should be more than idle 
 if I did not manage to scribble a few lines to you. 
 After three days' detention at Ligny to enable the 
 3rd Army to concentrate for the march on Chalons 
 and Paris, we are detained a day here, to allow it to 
 countermarch to the northward for the purpose of 
 combining in the operations against MacMahon, 
 who is supposed to have made a movement for the 
 purpose of relieving Metz. We inarched yesterday 
 through Bar-le-Duc a charming march, if it had 
 not been for one hour of hard rain, which made
 
 312 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 one just damp enough to spoil the pleasure of the 
 ride and are comfortably quartered in the pretty 
 village of Revigny of the Cows. Our spare horses 
 are all off for St. Menehould. I have sent on the 
 brown and old Punch, so that if the army is fight- 
 ing when we arrive to-morrow we may be able 
 to mount fresh horses and push on at once. I 
 have another carriage horse, and am splendidly 
 mounted and provided for all emergencies. I 
 have had a capital breakfast, and have half a cold 
 chicken packed up for to-morrow. Russell is going 
 to lend me a pistol in case of accidents, and I am just 
 as complete a vagabond as ever wandered through 
 the world. I got letters and papers, not to speak 
 of the mail captured in the r post office at Vitry. 
 I don't think we shall fight before the 29th. I 
 hope not, as there will be more chance of the 
 armies of the two Crown Princes (Prussia and 
 Saxony, in all 8^ corps) being concentrated against 
 MacMahon. If he fights to-morrow, he may gain a 
 temporary advantage, but will pay for it the next 
 day. The Alvenslebens are well to the fore, the 
 general with the 3rd Corps ; and the day before 
 yesterday the 15th Lancers, under the son of the 
 old commandant, took a whole battalion of Garde 
 Mobile prisoners near Vitry. My landlord is an 
 old inspector of chasses under Charles X. He 
 has given me an introduction to his niece at St. 
 Menehould, where I have asked to be quartered. 
 I have also got some maps from a Bavarian officer, 
 so am quite set up in every respect. I have written 
 a despatch and this letter, so can afford to go loose 
 about the world for a day or two.
 
 Letters from France. 313 
 
 St. Menehould, 28th August. You have known 
 me now for twenty-six years, but such a dirty pig as I 
 am to-day you have not yet seen me. We have had 
 the worst of all our wet marches twenty-five miles 
 in constant rain, and in a sea of mud which beats 
 all description. I cannot even tell you what the 
 country is like, as nothing but driving rain was to 
 be seen. It ought to be pretty, as we are now 
 going along the wood of Argonne, and the town 
 appears al o to be prettily situated : but as it still 
 rains, and I have a comfortable room, I feel more 
 inclined to scribble a bit to you than to run about 
 in the dirt. 
 
 29th August, Senen. Which you won't find on 
 any map, but it is about two English miles south- 
 west of Grand Pre, which you will find ; another 
 twenty-five miles' march, luckily without rain. 
 It is a little village of about seventy houses. I 
 have a room to myself in a nice cottage belonging 
 to an inspector of forests, who has stupidly run 
 away, so that everything will be found in disorder 
 on his return his chickens and rabbits devoured 
 by the hungry soldiers, and his oats and hay by 
 our hungry horses. We have done as nearly as 
 possible 100 kilometres in the last three days" 
 marches with one halt. The army has of course 
 done the same distance, and some parts of it have 
 marched for seven consecutive days without a halt. 
 It is a regular chase, and we now hear that, instead 
 of fighting as to-day or to-morrow, MacMahon has 
 doubled back again, and we shall probably have 
 to turn suddenly to the westward and look for him 
 in the direction of Kheims. He is, however,
 
 314 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 stopped from dragging us into the Argonnes, as 
 was plainly his intention. The Prussians have, 
 however, four divisions of cavalry watching every 
 movement. I stumbled to-day on the Brunswick 
 hussars, who had just returned from a ride of 
 over fifty miles to cut the railway between Sedan 
 and Thionville, in which they succeeded. Willy 
 Girsewald is orderly officer to General Rheinbaben, 
 commanding one of the cavalry divisions. The 
 horses are all well ; three are tied up together like 
 dogs in a shed under my window, No. 4, who bites, 
 in a chicken-house a little further on. I rode 
 old Punch to-day, and he went famously. Can- 
 nonier is none the worse for our awful wetting 
 yesterday. I have a little rheumatism. No wonder ; 
 it is as cold as October, and two out of three 
 marches are in the rain. The Duke of Manchester 
 turned up yesterday, but as he has not come on 
 to-day I conclude the Prince gave him no hope of 
 being able to remain. 
 
 Donchery, 1st September. Only a hasty line, 
 as I am trying to write a despatch ; but my back 
 aches so that I can hardly sit upright. Constant 
 rain and twenty-five or thirty miles a day, with 
 fourteen hours in the saddle or sitting on the 
 ground for the last six days, have given me a 
 touch of rheumatism ; added to which, living on 
 eggs and bits of bread, and occasional sups of 
 brandy, is rather short commons. I really hardly 
 know how to begin to tell you of the great battle 
 and its results, and shall only be able to do so by 
 degrees. It lasted from before 6 a.m. till 5 p.m., 
 hard fio-htinf>- the whole time ; but we were com- 
 
 O O '
 
 Letters from France. 315 
 
 pletely out of fire, perched on a hill from whence 
 we had a view of not only the 3rd Army but of 
 that of the Crown Prince of Saxony, and with my 
 excellent glass I saw everything most distinctly. 
 The cavalry charges were of absorbing interest, 
 and I saw half a French regiment of hussars swept 
 away as a mower cuts down grass. As to the 
 results, I cannot yet form a calculation of them. In 
 one word, the whole army, with all its arms, ammu- 
 nitions, stores, and provisions, have fallen into the 
 hands of the Prussians. Never was so complete a 
 victory since war invaded the peaceful earth. We 
 march to-morrow towards Paris, a great part of the 
 army being already in motion. The French army 
 is being marched out by 10,000 at a time, and 
 encamped on a peninsula formed by a bend of the 
 Meuse. I have 110 doubt I shall be all right to- 
 morrow, and I have a capital bed, which is the 
 chief thing. When I have time to think I will try 
 to write some connected account of the last days. 
 At present I must get on with my despatches. 
 
 5th September. You can conceive nothing more 
 intensely interesting than the battle which took 
 place completely under our eyes. The anxiety 
 with which we watched the march of the 5th and 
 llth Corps was only exceeded by the astonishment 
 of the French when taken in the rear. They did 
 not fight nearly as well as at Wiirth, partly to be 
 accounted for by their previous discouragement, 
 partly by the total surprise of their reserve by this 
 attack. When the llth Corps got to the village of 
 St. Monze they found only one sentry outside the 
 village, who fired off his chassepot at them, and thus
 
 316 Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 gave the first alarm. The heights were carried in 
 the most gallant manner, and an hour later we saw 
 the Prussian troops in the French position throwing 
 back the flying enemy. The cavalry charge, which 
 I saw as plainly as if in it, was led by the Marquis 
 de Gallifet, who escaped without a scratch, though 
 half his regiment was destroyed. We hear that 
 Stoffel was on the staff of Marshall McMahon. 
 The four corps of MacMahon, de Failly, Douay, and 
 Ducrot were 120,000 strong when concentrated. 
 They lost about 15,000 on the 30th and 31st August, 
 and probably as many on the 1st, September. 30,000 
 prisoners are supposed to have been taken in the 
 field and 60,000 to have surrendered in the town. 
 The Prussian and Bavarian losses in the three days 7 
 fighting were as nearly as possible 13,000, namely 
 Crown Prince of Prussia 8,000, Crown Prince of 
 Saxony 5,000. We marched over thirty miles 
 yesterday and over twenty to-day. To-morrow I 
 believe about ten miles to Rheims, and there rest for 
 a day before going on to Paris, if we go there. I 
 wish you could tell us what is doing at Metz. We 
 hear a rumour of two fruitless attempts to break 
 through on the 31st and 1st. I forgot to say Mac- 
 Mahon was badly wounded on the 1st by a piece of 
 lead coating from a Prussian shell. The beasts 
 send their compliments to Snap ; the little brown is 
 fatter than when we left. Wilhelm is quite invalu- 
 able, but the two stable servants are beasts. I am 
 somewhat cleaner than before the battle, as I had a 
 good wash at Donchery. I was quartered yester- 
 day with a Bavarian officer, who is a very good 
 fellow, but who only licked himself by way of a
 
 Letters from France. 317 
 
 wash. However I see a tub in the corner of my 
 room, and intend to have a good wash and a clean 
 shirt before I go to dinner. 
 
 Rheims, 8th September. We marched to Kheims 
 
 the day before yesterday in pouring rain, to find 
 
 such a confusion about our quarters as was never 
 
 seen. In fact this part of the business has been 
 
 very badly managed throughout. I was, however, 
 
 cheered by finding that a large post had arrived 
 
 with newspapers and your letter, not to speak of a 
 
 nice letter from Sir T. Biddulph, from Balmoral, 
 
 which showed that I am not forgotten there. I am 
 
 very anxious for your answer to my query about 
 
 any notice having been sent to you of my being 
 
 safe after the battle of Sedan. I should like to pull 
 
 the combined noses of the whole F. 0., and if a few 
 
 diplomatic noses got between my fingers at the 
 
 same time so much the better. The weather was 
 
 so atrocious all yesterday that I hardly went out, 
 
 except to see the cathedral, which is wonderful. I 
 
 am going again this morning to 9 o'clock mass, as 
 
 the little I heard of the organ yesterday has given 
 
 me a desire to hear more. The statues and carving 
 
 outside the cathedral are so profuse that I think 
 
 even St. Nepomuk must have a place there ; the 
 
 glass windows are wonderful, particularly those 
 
 over the western porch. I hear also of another 
 
 church, St. Remy, which I must go and see, but 
 
 you know I am no great hand at sight-seeing, 
 
 though I much enjoy things which please me. 
 
 Rheims is by no means so fine a city as Nancy, 
 
 and does not give me the idea of being nearly so 
 
 large ; for the coronation city of France it has quite
 
 3 1 8 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 a provincial appearance. Think of the Emperor ! 
 I wonder how the results of the 1st were announced 
 in England. Did you believe it ? You have no 
 idea of the state of expectation we were in for the 
 two previous days while the coup was being pre- 
 pared. Not that any one thought of catching the 
 Emperor ; it was about the last thing that entered 
 our heads, and totally unwished for about, in fact, 
 the most embarrassing event which could have 
 happened. The combinations were splendid and as 
 ably carried out, but I was altogether disappointed 
 in the French resistance, and in their apparently 
 planless manoeuvring. How blind they appear 
 to have been. They do not seem to have cal- 
 culated on the possibility of the Crown Prince 
 walking into their rear with 40,000 of his men, 
 while another 40,000 were employing them in 
 front of Sedan. They fully expected the attack 
 of the Crown Prince of Saxony, as it was to 
 that side (the east) that the line of battle was 
 formed at Grivonne and La Moncelle. The Bavarians 
 attacked Bazeille and Balon, which form the 
 southern extremity of the eastern line. I had long 
 been watching the French reserve near Illy, before 
 the Crown Prince's two Prussian corps appeared 
 at St. Monze. So little were they expected that 
 there was only a small post with one sentry in this 
 village, who gave the first alarm by firing his 
 chassepot. You may imagine the consternation 
 which ensued, and the difficulty of changing front 
 under such a surprise. I hear that the bag consists 
 of 50 generals, 4,500 officers, 500 more who gave 
 their parole and return to France, and 90,000 men,
 
 Letters from France. 319 
 
 besides killed and wounded. MacMahon certainly 
 had 120,000 men when he left Rheims, some say 
 150,000, but I am inclined to think the former 
 number nearer the mark. The Prussians brought 
 exactly nine divisions into fire, so that the numbers 
 engaged were about equal ; indeed, in the fighting 
 which I saw there were fewer Prussians actually 
 firing than French. We had a hardish day ; we 
 rode ten miles to the field, were twelve and a half 
 hours there, and rode back to the same quarter at 
 night. I have never seen anything so dignified as 
 the old King's manner when he received the Em- 
 peror's letter from General Reille. I should like to 
 have seen the interview next day, but we all sat 
 under the windows of the gallery in which it took 
 place. I did see the Emperor as he took leave of 
 his unwelcome guests, and though I think him com- 
 pletely in the wrong, I felt for fallen greatness. 
 Think of the humiliation after the brag of July, 
 Benedetti's insolence, and the " March to Berlin." 
 Stoffel we hear was in Sedan, but of course no one 
 saw him, and I, from a feeling of delicacy to our 
 former allies, did not go to look at them in captivity. 
 We march again to-morrow past Epernay and 
 towards Paris. I have been rewarded, by dressing 
 to go to mass, by getting your letter of the 29th on 
 the way. Your letters arrive very regularly, and I 
 believe we shall now get them more quickly. It seems 
 hard to be only fourteen hours from England and 
 that the letters take eleven days to reach us. I have 
 also got a map from Berlin, which makes me feel 
 very independent again What a goose M. is. Why 
 shouldn't I be jolly? If one was always think-
 
 320 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 ing over the horrors no one would be a soldier. 
 So much the better perhaps, but those peaceful times 
 are still far off. I have seldom heard finer voices 
 than at the mass, particularly a tenor and a bass, 
 and the organ is also very fine. I could spend the 
 whole of my time in the cathedral. Unfortunately 
 the finest part of the exterior can only be seen from 
 the Archbishops's palace, where the King lodges. 
 I am lodged here with a most civil host, a wine 
 merchant, but thanks to confusion and intrusion 
 not as I ought to be ; but my host has done all he 
 can to make me comfortable. He has twice expressed 
 his hope that we may make an end of the Reds in 
 Paris, till which time there will be no peace. I 
 suppose we shall fight something before Paris, 
 what, remains to be proved. I hope not Garde 
 Mobile and old men. 
 
 BoursauU, 9th September. 132,000 French are 
 accounted for on the 30th August and 1st Septem- 
 ber, besides those who took flight into the woods, 
 and of whom no estimate can be given, though they 
 are believed to number several thousands. 
 
 Surrendered at Sedan . . 83,000 
 Prisoners in the field . . 21,000 
 
 Killed (buried) .... 3,000 
 Wounded in Prussian hands . 14,000 
 Prisoners on the 30th . . 8,000 
 Disarmed in Belgium . . 3,000 
 
 132,000 
 
 Besides this, 500 guns taken at and in Sedan, 
 including 67 mitrailleuses. As this is perfectly
 
 Letters from France. 321 
 
 authentic, you may tell it to whom you like. 
 Engaged at Sedan on the 1st, three divisions of 
 Crown Prince of Saxony, three divisions of Bava- 
 rians, three divisions of Crown Prince of Prussia. 
 The 6th Corps was at Attigny, five German miles 
 distant ; the Wiirtemburgers never moved beyond 
 Donchery ; so that out of seventeen available divi- 
 sions with the two armies, nine were engaged, five 
 were kept in support, and three completely in 
 reserve. The highest numbers which can be given 
 to the two armies, including cavalry, would not 
 much exceed 184,000 men available for all pur- 
 poses, and very little over 90,000 were actually 
 engaged, as the cavalry did little or nothing. So 
 much for exaggerated disproportion. Added to 
 this the G-ermans attacked in every phase of the 
 battle. We marched to-day at 8 in a rain 
 which exceeded all we have hitherto had, through 
 Epernay to this place, a lovely chateau on the 
 Marne, belonging to the son-in-law of Yeuve 
 Cliquot. If we only get such champagne to-day as 
 we had yesterday, at the house of the successor of 
 the champagne widow, where the Crown Prince 
 lodged ! I never drank anything like it ; but one 
 ought not to smoke all day when imbibing such 
 nectar. I am not lodged in the new, but in the 
 old chateau, about 300 yards off, with charming 
 gardens, which I shall explore to-morrow, as we 
 stay here two days to wait for the army of the 
 Crovvn Prince of Saxony. I drank tea last night 
 at the Crown Prince's to meet the King, who was 
 most cheery, and very kind in his greeting to me. 
 He looks very well. Oh, dear ! what an anxious 
 
 Y
 
 322 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 time the last ten days have been, particularly when 
 we did not know whether the game would break 
 through before the nets were closed. The horses 
 all well ; old Punch quite frisky ; that donkey 
 Cannonier got over his rope the night before last 
 and rubbed himself, but will be quite fit to march 
 when we move on to Paris. Messrs. Eussell, 
 Skinner, and Landells missing since we left Don- 
 chery. I hope they have only remained in Sedan, 
 and will come up with the Johanniters. 
 
 Hour salt, Wth September. I wish we had come 
 here a day sooner. I have a nice little sitting- 
 room, the only objection to which is that it looks 
 on the stable-yard, and a great large bedroom with 
 a lovely view to the valley of the Marne, with 
 Chateau Boursalt in the foreground; this being 
 the old house, given up to gardeners, &c., since 
 the new one was built. It really was charming 
 last night after dinner. The suite of rooms 
 consist of library, large drawing-room, billiard- 
 room, large dining-room, and small dining-room 
 corresponding to library. The rooms were bril- 
 liantly lighted, two officers were playing billiards, 
 the Prince talking to me in the window, the 
 drawing-room full of the Staff, smoking and 
 chatting, while one of the party played the piano. 
 It was quite humanising, and will, I hope, be 
 repeated this evening and to-morrow, and then 
 on to Paris. Think of my having bought a 
 revolver. As long as we were only fighting 
 against France I had made up my mind to keep 
 out of rows as much as I could, and, except to 
 save myself or the Prince, not to draw a weapon.
 
 Letters from France. 323 
 
 Now that we have to deal with the Republic the 
 case is altered, and I shall most certainly shoot 
 any one who is fool enough to get in my way. 
 The telegraph was opened here yesterday I tried 
 to telegraph from Rheinis, but did not succeed, 
 but yesterday I got one off to the Queen at 
 Balmoral. Your map is charming. I had one 
 from the Embassy on a much larger scale, but 
 yours is extremely welcome. I shall soon have 
 to look out for some clothes, but will do nothing 
 till I see whether we get into Paris, as I could 
 get everything made there. If the Republic 
 persists in war we shall probably march on Tours 
 or Bordeaux, and another part of the army on 
 Lyons and Marseilles. But as long as Metz and 
 Strasburg hold out there are no troops available 
 for Southern France. I believe that we shall 
 move to Fontainebleaux, where I shall like to 
 lodge. Of one thing you may be quite certain, 
 the Prussians will not run their heads against 
 any forts that can be turned ; and, as I have often 
 told you, the larger the army the less risk do I 
 run, as the Prince is obliged to remain on one 
 place, and that is, where he can see the most of 
 his army. You should hear me talking French. 
 I have plucked up courage and jabber away as if 
 it was my native tongue, and have been much 
 amused at the people in two or three places having 
 come to look for the Monsieur qui parle si bien 
 Franqais, when they have had a difficulty with 
 the Germans. I am getting very short of tobacco, 
 but hope to supply myself in Paris if I get there 
 that is inside it. I am very well and hearty, and 
 
 Y2
 
 324 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 the wet rides rather do me good than otherwise, 
 but if I get out of the dominions of Yeuve Cliquot 
 without a fit of the gout it will be a wonder. To 
 the numbers given in my letter you must add 
 5,000 wounded and left on the field on the 30th 
 in the action at Beaumont, making 137,000 in all, 
 fully accounted for, besides 50 or 60 generals 
 and 6,000 officers prisoners. It is really too 
 astounding a success. To show you the extent 
 lying is carried on in France, the Emperor was 
 made to believe that he had been beaten at Sedan 
 by Prince F. Carl's army, and was quite astonished 
 when the King told him that it was the Crown 
 Prince who had finished them off so neatly. He 
 staggered as if he had been struck when he heard 
 it. I have this anecdote direct from the Crown 
 Prince, who had it from his father. I am glad 
 to see that people in England are beginning to 
 cry out against our supplying the French with 
 arms. If our F. 0. continues to act as it does at 
 present, I shall not wait long after the conclusion 
 of peace in declining as a soldier and a gentleman 
 to be mixed up with such doings. 
 
 Boursault, llth September. As I hear that our 
 letters go by way of Belgium, I hope you will now 
 get them more regularly. We march to-morrow, 
 very sorry to leave this charming place, which I 
 like far better than Eisgrub, but still thinking it 
 quite right to get on towards Paris, where we shall 
 still arrive a day too soon for the French. Lord 
 help them ! What liars they are ! I really begin 
 to lose all pity for their misfortunes after reading 
 the trash which they swallow for truth. It is really
 
 Letters from France. 325 
 
 too charming here. I have just been out with the 
 Prince to an old hunting lodge which Schleinitz 
 and I discovered in our morning ride. The dining- 
 room was decorated with most wonderful pictures 
 of " Sontags Jager" (Sunday sportsmen), over 
 which we laughed to our heart's content, but other- 
 wise the house was very tumble-down and dilapi- 
 dated. The railways are pretty well all in Prussian 
 hands, and those which are not, soon will be, at any 
 rate as far as Paris is concerned. The three cor- 
 respondents missing since the 3rd have turned up 
 all right. I shall be curious to know what the 
 F. 0. think of some of my despatches. I have 
 told them some of the plainest truths they have 
 probably heard for a long time. 
 
 MontmiraU, 14th September. Your letter of 5th 
 reached me yesterday, and was as welcome as are 
 always any scraps from home. We positively had 
 a dry March to Montmirail, which is a beastly town, 
 as dirty as an Irish village. To-morrow we march 
 to Coulommiers. 1 am very glad to hear of 
 Alvensleben, but wish they could make an end of 
 Strasburg and march to join the army. I have no 
 news, except that I have a vile attack of rheumatism, 
 due, I think, to five days in the head-quarters of 
 Champagne, but from all accounts I am likely to 
 be starved into good condition again when we get 
 nearer to Paris. The principal ornament of my 
 room in this most filthy hostelry of " Le Vert 
 Galant " is a huge stuffed tom-cat such a beast! 
 What a voice he must have had when alive. I can 
 give the best account of little Brownie, who is as 
 fat as a pig, and so saucy, but very friendly, and
 
 326 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 snuffs me all over when I visit him ; indeed, the 
 beasts are all well. We have now only our old 
 friend Vinoy to beat in open field, and then we must 
 deal with the Reds. The Crown Prince will march 
 against Vinoy whenever he is to be found, with 
 what result I have no doubt. 
 
 Coulommiers, I5th September. I sent you a tele- 
 gram last night to say that the Crown Prince had 
 given me the Iron Cross, which, being not an order, 
 but a war medal, I shall be able to accept and 
 wear. He did so in such a kind manner as doubly 
 enhanced the value of the decoration, which, not to 
 speak of the compliment of being the only English- 
 man who has ever had it, is the prettiest decoration 
 you ever saw black and silver, black and white 
 ribbon hanging at the button-holes. As I don't 
 want to excite any opposition to my getting leave 
 to wear it, }~ou had better mention it to no one at 
 present. We marched this morning at 8 a lovely 
 day, and a pretty march to one of the nicest 
 quarters we have yet had. I am in a house on the 
 promenade with two others, the master and mistress 
 absent, but the servants still here. We found 
 luncheon ready for us, and I shall not ' be at all 
 sorry if we remain another day. I only wish we 
 had been here instead of that beastly Montmirail. 
 So far from the people having all run away, the 
 town is full, the shops all open, and the people 
 remarkably civil. The children are now playing 
 with horse-chestnuts under my window, as if there 
 were no brutal Prussians in the world. Do you see 
 the Illustrated ? Mr. Landells is sending home 
 a good many nice sketches, and will send a large
 
 Letters from France. 327 
 
 one of all our party. I figure in one, "A Night 
 Scene in Luneville." I hear that our old friend 
 Vinoy, Lord Clyde's companion at Balaclava, is 
 getting up an army, which we shall in that case 
 have to beat before we sit down at the gates of 
 Paris. We are now less than forty miles from 
 Paris, and three more marches will bring us to 
 Versailles. Pinch the wee dog's tail from me. I 
 nearly threw the young Grand Duke into a fit by 
 singing him the song on the march. 
 
 St. Germain, Corbeil, 18th September. Here we 
 are, prepared to cross the Seine to-morrow in a 
 half-deserted village east of the Seine, the town 
 of Corbeil at our feet, and in a quite deserted house, 
 with a fine garden behind it. The people are too 
 stupid, and may thank their stars that they have 
 no worse guests than Count Harrach and myself. 
 I left Coulommiers quite with regret, after a very 
 enjoyable day of rest, yesterday morning, and 
 marched to Chaumes, where I also tumbled into 
 most comfortable quarters with a M. Delier and his 
 wife, two respectable old bodies, who, after making 
 their money in Paris, had settled down in this quiet 
 little town. I found a hearty welcome and a 
 mutton chop and some vegetables and cheese and 
 fruit, and a charming bedroom looking on the 
 garden. All very pleasant, if I could have dis- 
 sociated it from the idea of horrid war. The old 
 people had been wise enough to remain in their 
 house, and except the necessity of feeding hungry 
 and unwelcome guests had not suffered. Even here 
 the house has not been turned inside out for a 
 wonder, as the Bavarians had been here before us,
 
 328 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 but there is no one in the house except a neighbour, 
 who comes in to look after it, and a small girl from 
 Lorraine, who has constituted herself housekeeper 
 and cook, on the strength of her speaking some- 
 thing which passes for German. To-morrow I 
 expect we shall begin a course of short commons, 
 particularly if we stay here, as the whole neigh- 
 bourhood is eaten out of house and home, and the 
 Bavarians have been before us. I had a nice letter 
 while at Coulommiers from Alvensleben, written 
 in good spirits on the 7th. I expect we shall 
 shall soon hear of the fall of Strasburg. Other 
 news I have none. I learn more from the English 
 papers than in any other way, and have them up 
 to the 7th inclusive. Where we are going is still 
 uncertain. What the Prussians are going to do is 
 much more certain, and that is to make themselves 
 as disagreeable to Paris as they possibly can. What 
 fools the people are. How can they resist without 
 arms and organisation, and how long will Paris 
 endure being shut up within itself ? I expect that 
 about three weeks will sicken them of the pleasures 
 of being hunted day and night by the enclosing 
 armies. Wait till they have no milk and no news. 
 Up to the present time we have seen no sign of the 
 Franc-Tireurs. Just before we made our halt 
 to-day for luncheon, the Crown Prince thought he 
 saw one hanging from a tree, but it proved to' be a 
 large dog. We also heard five cannon shots from 
 the direction of Yilleneuve, the first we have heard 
 since the 4th, the day on which we left Don- 
 chery. I am getting horribly shabby, that is to 
 say as regards my marching clothes, and I have
 
 Letters from France. 329 
 
 seen several large holes in my socks, but as no one 
 sees them but myself it does not matter. 
 
 Versailles, 20th September. I did not write to 
 you this morning before leaving Palaisseau, as I 
 wished to date my letter from Versailles, where we 
 marched in to-day after visiting the scene of the 
 small fight of yesterday, which gave possession of a 
 point which commands the whole south front of 
 Paris. It was a toughish business while it lasted, 
 but the French (two divisions of General Yinoy's 
 corps) made but a poor resistance, and abandoned 
 a redoubt, quite new, between Plessis Piquet and 
 Clamont, almost without a fight. The whole Prus- 
 sian and Bavarian loss was under 300, and the 
 Bavarians took nine guns. I was so charmingly 
 lodged at Palaisseau yesterday that I was quite 
 sorry to leave. Five of us had a country house, 
 with a lovely garden, and the two finest horse- 
 chestnut trees I have ever seen. We had a sitting- 
 room, dining-room, billiard-room, and writing-room 
 on the ground floor, and over, capital bedrooms, 
 all in terrible disorder, as some beasts of train 
 soldiers had broken in and turned the house topsy- 
 turvey between the exit of the last inhabitants and 
 our arrival. I soon got things in order, and we 
 intended to be very comfortable, but the Crown 
 Prince changed his mind after dinner and deter- 
 mined to march on to Versailles, where we are now 
 established. Young Blumenthal and I are in a small 
 house, where I have a bed and a dressing room, 
 both very clean and very comfortable, and a tidy 
 old woman to make our coffee and clean our rooms. 
 The proprietress (a maid of sixty-eight) lives in
 
 33 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 Paris. Paris was completely surrounded last night 
 by the German armies. I can hardly believe that 
 I heard God save the Queen played for the Crown 
 Prince in Versailles, but a fact it is, and the recep- 
 tion of the people was by no means unfavourable. 
 In fact, I believe they are glad to be safe from the 
 Parisian Eeds. 
 
 Versailles, 22nd September. I am afraid from 
 what Mrs. Bradhurst writes from Berlin, that 
 Alvensleben has lost his brother, but we are so cut 
 off from news of the other armies that nothing is 
 heard here but what concerns ourselves. I am 
 charmingly lodged in a quiet little house not more 
 than five or six minutes from head- quarters, and 
 with only one companion, of whom I see as much 
 or as little as I choose. I have been in all the 
 agonies of a long despatch, so that as yet I have 
 had little time to look about me, but have managed 
 to buy socks and pocket-handkerchiefs ; very neces- 
 sary they were too. I managed to get a good walk 
 yesterday afternoon with General Blumenthal, and 
 we saw such a sunset from the terrace as one 
 seldom sees out of the Tropics. I stood with him 
 on the very spot where you and I and the children 
 fed the carp just eight years ago, and could hardly 
 believe in the reality of the present situation. 
 Coming back we met the Prince, who told us that 
 the report of the Bavarian outposts, that the 
 French were firing on each other in Paris, was 
 believed to be correct, bat we are as much cut off 
 from news from Paris as they are from milk and 
 news from outside. I have already been discovered 
 by our country people, of whom there are still some
 
 Letters from France. 331 
 
 here, and must make myself as useful as I can. I 
 have made acquaintance with one very pleasant 
 lady, the wife of Captain Inglefield, R.N., who is 
 here with her two girls, he having gone to England 
 to take his boys back to school. Versailles is a 
 happy mixture of Potsdam and Charlottenburg. Its 
 present aspect is, as you may suppose, far from 
 cheerful, but I hope that we shall stay here instead 
 of going into Paris. Jules Favre has got so far in 
 arranging matters with Bismarck that he is to come 
 out again with further proposals, but even peace 
 would not release us from occupying this distracted 
 country. The better classes are really more afraid of 
 the Reds than of the Prussians, who, they are begin- 
 ning to say, are not after all such very great beasts 
 as they supposed. Indeed, they seem to be behaving 
 very well here. The lower galleries of the palace 
 are fitted up as hospitals for the Prussian and 
 Bavarian wounded of the 19th. There they lie 
 under the pictures representing " La Gloire Fran- 
 caise," nursed by French sisters of charity. I am 
 going out for a ride this afternoon in the park. 
 Some of the party are gone out pheasant shooting, 
 and the Prince has driven over to Ferrieres to see 
 the King. As I cannot be with you I am quite 
 contented to be here, and not have to change my 
 quarters every day. 
 
 Versailles, 24th September. If our country people 
 would let me alone I could write to you, but every 
 minute I have to myself is taken up with English 
 grievances, and I have not the heart not to listen to 
 them at any rate. To-day four Englishmen came 
 out of Paris, forced themselves through the Prussian
 
 33 2 Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 outposts, and consider that they are subjected to 
 awful hardships, because they are looked on as 
 spies, and are not allowed to prosecute their journey 
 to England undisturbed. I found them sitting at 
 dinner with a stew and four bottles of Bordeaux in 
 a room which four days ago I should have looked 
 on as a palace, but they found it very hard that 
 they had a sentry at the door with a loaded gun. 
 I should like to know whose gun has been unloaded 
 for the last seven weeks. I have passed the whole 
 afternoon yesterday and to-day with the outposts 
 at St. Cloud, where I was one of the first who 
 appeared when it was occupied by the Prussians. 
 To the right of the palace, on the highest point of 
 that side of the park, is a square tower, called the 
 Lanterne, from which there is a perfectly complete 
 view of all Paris. The Seine is at your feet, then 
 comes the suburb of Boulogne, and then the city. 
 Far to the left is Fort Mount Valerien, and just 
 clear of the trees to the right Fort Issy, the former 
 silent, the latter diligently employed in pounding 
 at a party of Prussian engineers, who are turning 
 one of the captured redoubts just over Sevres 
 against the city. As the weather is everything 
 that could be wished, you may fancy how clearly 
 almost every house in Paris can be counted. There 
 is no sign of life whatever in the suburb, excepting 
 when a detachment of soldiers or Mobilles shows 
 itself in the distance. Even the line of French 
 sentries cannot be seen, as they have established 
 themselves in the small houses nearest to the Seine, 
 where they are completely covered from view, and 
 from whence they fire incessantly at the Prussian
 
 Letters from France. 333 
 
 sentries on the left bank, or at any one who shows 
 on the terrace of the palace. I went yesterday 
 afternoon all over the palace, which is charming, 
 both inside and out. Most of the pretty things, 
 and many of the pictures, have been packed away, 
 but they have left some of the Sevres china, which 
 is very good. The intendant when introducing us 
 into the council chamber said, " There, gentlemen, 
 the decision to go to war was taken," adding, 
 " there sat the Emperor, there Marshal le Boeuf." 
 On the table were a number of coloured engravings 
 of Prussian uniforms. What a fiasco they have 
 made of it. I have so much to do to-day in the 
 way of visits to my country people that I shall not 
 have time to go there this afternoon, but shall pro- 
 bably do so to-morrow. Indeed I cannot conceive 
 that there can be a better point of view from any 
 of the positions occupied by the Prussians, added 
 to which the chance of being shot is very remote 
 indeed, as the Lanterne is so immediately over the 
 river, and in any of the captured redoubts you are 
 pretty sure to get a shell or two, if you happen to 
 wear anything so remarkable as my cap. I hear 
 that Lord Lyons has left Paris, and that Mr. Wode- 
 house is in charge, Colonel Claremont having also 
 remained, as I supposed he would. 
 
 26th September. I assisted at such a dinner 
 yesterday. The Brigade Yoigts Ehetz gave a 
 dinner to the Prince, and I don't think that I ever 
 heard such a noise in my life, not only from voices, 
 but from a combined band which played its best 
 forte under the windows. I know that my head 
 was very fuzzy when, at some unknown hour, I at
 
 334 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 length made my escape ; but I feel remarkably 
 lively this morning, and have been writing ever 
 since 6 o'clock. We have the most lovely 
 autumnal weather you can conceive, with every 
 appearance of its lasting. 
 
 Versailles, 26th September. I am going this 
 morning to attend a parade, which will be historical. 
 The Crown Prince gives iron crosses under the 
 statue of Louis XIY. in the great courtyard of the 
 palace. As he said to me last night, " He ought to 
 turn in his grave." I shall then make my way to 
 the outposts for the afternoon. A fat prince got a 
 shot in the head there yesterday, which will, I hope, 
 be a warning ; he persisted in going where he was 
 warned not to go ; et voila, it is not so much the 
 one man, but he drew fire on the guard by his 
 folly. I am so sorry about poor Hans. I wrote to 
 the old Colonel, and will write to-night to George. 
 I expect they stormed Strasburg last night or this 
 morning. I wish you could see my nice rooms 
 here. Everybody thinks I am very badly lodged, as 
 my house looks very small and unpretending ; but 
 it is very comfortable, and I have a nice little 
 garden with plenty of sun. 
 
 28th. We heard last night of the capitulation 
 of Strasburg. We hear to our disgust that the 
 King's head-quarters want to come here, which 
 will either turn us out altogether or make us very 
 uncomfortable, I shall be highly disgusted, as 
 I like the place, and, thanks to the few people 
 I know, am not reduced to talking eternal shop 
 as sole subject of conversation. The Prussians 
 are excellent in nearly every respect, but the relief
 
 Letters from France. 335 
 
 of getting away from their ceremonious bowings, 
 and stiff-backed manners, to the ease of other 
 society is certainly very great. I sat an hour 
 yesterday with a charming old gentleman, the 
 Marquis de Croismare, whose wife is an English 
 lady. I must go over to St. Germain to-morrow to 
 see the Brunswick hussars and hunt up some 
 English people there. 
 
 Versailles, 29th September. If you both were 
 but here with the carriages and horses how 
 charming it would be. The weather is perfect 
 and the rides and drives lovely, the more so that 
 in these Republican days we ride and drive every- 
 where. I am going to-day over to St. Germains to 
 look up some countrymen, then the Brunswick 
 hussars, and I want to see how Paris looks from 
 that point of view. The messenger who came out 
 the day before yesterday gives an extraordinary 
 account of the state of Paris. He says the people are 
 mad with Republicanism, and from his account I 
 shall not be surprised if the scenes of '93 are acted 
 over again. All the bronze statues of Napoleon 
 have been taken to be melted down, I conclude, into 
 guns. He says the scene of drumming, bugling, 
 shouting, singing in Paris is indescribable, and that 
 there is about as much order as in an Irish fair. 
 That the parade, so much praised by newspaper 
 correspondents, was simply ridiculous, and that the 
 whole of the respectable classes only wish for 
 peace. But till an iron hand has been laid on this 
 Repulicanism there will be no peace, and of this 
 the Germans are perfectly aware. The heavy guns 
 must be here very soon, to-day or to-morrow, when
 
 336 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 they will be sternly awakened from their fool's 
 paradise. Not that there is the least idea of bom- 
 barding Paris ; the necessary forts will be taken, 
 and the business will then progress steadily to its 
 end. Hunger and dissension will work far more 
 powerfully than Prussian shells. I have had such 
 a nice letter from Balmoral, from Sir T. Biddulph. 
 I am desired to write to him for the Queen when- 
 ever I please. This is most pleasant to me, but I 
 have been spiteful enough to tell how often you 
 have been informed of my safety after I have 
 telegraphed. 451 officers and 17,000 men capitu- 
 lated at Strasburg, guns not yet counted. All quiet 
 here, but we shall be noisy enough in a few days. 
 A sister of the Due du Grramont will call on you. 
 If she brings a letter for her friends here send it 
 on to me. 
 
 Versailles, 1st October. You may well ask, Who 
 are you to make peace with when you leave Paris ? 
 I will ask you a still harder question, Who is to feed 
 the 1,500,000 people when they surrender from 
 starvation ? The state of Paris even now must be 
 horrid. The Prussians never fire a shot or take 
 the least notice of them, but some morning they 
 will be awoke by the roar of the heavy guns against 
 the forts, and will then know what they lost when 
 they gave up these heights so easily. Yesterday 
 Yinoy attacked nearly one-third of the circle from 
 Mendon till beyond Yilleneuve. All near here were 
 feints, and I drove away quietly at 10 o'clock to 
 St. Germain, but the attack on the 6th Corps was 
 serious. The Germans lost six officers killed and 
 about 300, including officers, killed and wounded.
 
 Letters from France. 337 
 
 The French lost a general killed, his chief of the 
 Staff taken prisoner, and nearly 1,000 killed. The 
 Crown Prince was on his way to Ferrieres to 
 celebrate his mother's birthday, arrived just in time, 
 got on horseback, and after the fight was over 
 drove on to Ferrieres. Well done Fritz. Yester- 
 day I drove over to St. Germain, breakfasted at the 
 hotel with a view over the beautiful plain and up 
 to Mont Valerien, visited various Brunswickers, 
 took a walk on the terrace, and then went to see 
 Miss Coutts Trotter, who lives in a charming villa 
 just outside the town of Pecq ; such a lovely garden, 
 and such a view, and such English comfort. She 
 is aunt to the two Colonels Lindsay. St. Grermain 
 is very beautifully situated, but I prefer Versailles. 
 The King comes here on Tuesday and turns out the 
 Crown Prince and many others, but I have begged 
 to remain in my quiet little apartment, as all our 
 country people know where I live. If I am to be 
 away from home I would as soon be here as any 
 place I know. Do not be unhappy about warm 
 clothing, I can get anything I want here ; there is 
 a half German tailor ; I have found a good boot- 
 maker, and a shop where I can buy my under- 
 garments. 
 
 Versailles, 3rd October. I am so glad you are 
 thinking of returning to Berlin. It is just what I 
 hoped you would do, so make all your arrange- 
 ments. I expect Alvensleben to-morrow or next 
 day. I have lost my companion, and am going to 
 try and make an arrangement by which I pay rent 
 for this house, so as to keep others out of it. I 
 have been able to do, so good a deed for a French 
 
 z
 
 338 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 family that I went to bed last night feeling as if 
 all my sins were sponged out. I drink tea to-night 
 with a Countess Visconti, Mrs. Bryan Milman's 
 aunt, who lives in Versailles. 
 
 6th October. I am remarkably well and as cross 
 
 as a bear. I am suffering under a fit of , a 
 
 most disagreeable malady which has broken out in 
 the "War Office since this Ministry is in power. I 
 wish General Eyre would bite some of the wise 
 ones. I am getting Hozier as an assistant ! ! ! ! 
 Japanese all over, where every man in office has a 
 shadow attached to him. Don't put off your journey 
 too late, and send me that copy of the Times I men- 
 tioned. 
 
 8th October. Having in the last two days spit 
 out all my venom against the War Office, I intend 
 to smooth down and resume the ordinary placid 
 course of my present life. We have had a general 
 turn-out for the King, but I have kept my quiet 
 little house. I have somebody over me Wilhelm 
 says a Russian but I have never seen him. The 
 weather still delightful, and I have enjoyed many 
 pleasant rides in this lovely country. In other 
 respects my life is tolerably regular. I tumble out 
 early, write all the morning, have my breakfast 
 from a restaurant at 10.30, go at 11 to head- 
 quarters, ride a bit, come back and finish my 
 letters, another ride in the afternoon, dine at a 
 hotel, and often drink tea with one of the families 
 I know, and get home about 11. I have had the 
 good fortune to be instrumental in restoring a son 
 to his father, M. Lambinet, Juge d'Instruction. He 
 was a Grarde Mobile, taken prisoner, and just about
 
 Letters from France. 339 
 
 to be sent off to Prussia, when I had the oppor- 
 tunity of putting in a word for him, and he was 
 released. The gratitude of the parents I have 
 hitherto escaped you know how I hate thanks. 
 I have just written a long letter for the Queen 
 through Sir T. Biddulph. I am very careful, and 
 hope the correspondence may do me more good 
 than harm ; but who knows ? If I please one, I am 
 sure to run against some one else. I have now 
 three English surgeons, whom I have been taking 
 about and introducing to-day. They are come here 
 to study the hospital system, and are pleasant com- 
 panions to me. It will be such a comfort when 
 you are settled again in Berlin, as I shall get my 
 letters regularly then. Let me know when to stop 
 writing to London. I wish you could see my 
 housekeeper, her husband, and their child there 
 is nothing like them out of the Zoos. The weather 
 has turned to wet, and is very cold. This day ten 
 years we were in the Summer Palace at Pekin. 
 
 Versailles, Ilth October. The Garde Landwehr 
 have not turned up yet, but must be near at hand. 
 I look out sharply for Alvensleben, and as the second 
 room in my chateau is empty, shall be able to 
 give him a bed in which he can roll himself, instead 
 of the straw to which he has lately been accus- 
 tomed. I will feed him on the fat of the land when- 
 ever he can come in to see me. I don't quite know 
 where he is going to be quartered. After three 
 days of wet and bluster we have glorious sunshine 
 again, but oh, how sharp it is. I think there must 
 have been a frost last night. Woman is not a 
 reasoning animal ; there is no use arguing, she is 
 
 z 2
 
 340 Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 not. I was invaded yesterday by a doleful looking 
 female who, after taking up three-quarters of an 
 hour, had nothing to demand, except that I should 
 buy some cameos, of which she was possessed, 
 because she expected to be out of money by next 
 Saturday, unless she received a letter from England. 
 In the first place I told her if I bought anything it 
 would be a pair of butcher boots, and in the second 
 that there were six days between the date of inter- 
 view and Saturday, and that it would be quite time 
 enough to come to me when she really was without 
 money. She went away saying, " If Providence 
 would only send me a letter." To which I replied, 
 " Madame, Providence never interferes with the 
 Post." The Crown Prince and I got two letters 
 yesterday in an odd manner ; his was from old 
 Sir Harry Verney, mine from the mother of 
 Madame de Canrobert. As they were both directed 
 to France they were in the French post, and were 
 caught somewhere between Paris and I won't say 
 where by the ubiquitous Prussian cavalry, and sent 
 on to us. I am glad to see that you were not 
 alarmed at the report of our capture in the papers 
 of the 1st. That we have not been, is certainly not 
 our faults, as the line has been very thin, but when 
 those watch-dogs the Garde Landwehr arrive I 
 shall feel quite happy. After all, Alvensleben will 
 not have done so badly ; Strasburg and Paris, and 
 no holes in his hide. I have been rather over- 
 worked lately, and my temper has been sorely tried 
 
 by , who, disappointed at not having the 
 
 deficiencies of the War Office made good and his 
 own ignorance lighted up by Colonel Walker, writes
 
 Letters from France. 341 
 
 ail impatient snarl to Colonel "Walker which won't 
 be forgotten. I went on Sunday to the French 
 Protestant service and should like to go again, but 
 felt that I spoilt the prayers, as I was evidently 
 looked on as a hated Prussian. It is, however, 
 wonderful how the people are coming round by 
 degrees. The lower orders are getting quite con- 
 fidential. The higher are the class for whom I have 
 the greatest contempt ; they are full of every foolish 
 quality which can debase mankind. The army of 
 the Loire beaten yesterday, near Orleans, with loss 
 of three guns and 1,000 prisoners, by mixed com- 
 mand under Bavarian General von der Tann. 
 
 Versailles, 16th October. Colonel I/oyd Lindsay 
 goes home to-day, so I write a scrap by him to say 
 that we have a jolly fog this morning, which is 
 about all the news I have to give, except that I 
 passed yesterday afternoon with the Bavarian out- 
 posts at Clamart, a large village, the outskirts of 
 which are held by them. The French go in every 
 day to look for wine, potatoes, &c., and perpetual 
 skirmishing goes on. My guide, from one picket to 
 the most advanced, told me with great glee that he 
 had shot a Frenchman just before I came, but that 
 his friends had carried him off . I wish you could 
 have seen me dodging to reach the place from 
 which I got the desired view of the Paris forts. I 
 don't think we were observed, though a bullet 
 which whistled past our place of safety might have 
 been meant either for us or for an outpost sentry 
 close at hand. 
 
 Versailles, 18th October. A bright day for the 
 Crown Prince's birthday. We were all warned
 
 34 2 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 to be ready for a fight, which, however, has not 
 come off, and it seems as if we were going to 
 have a peaceful day. I rode out yesterday with 
 Mr. Landells to have a look at Paris from Ville 
 d'Avray. The lights were very beautiful, and 
 a rainbow falling on the autumn foliage gave one 
 of the loveliest effects I ever saw. There was 
 great activity on the railways inside Paris ; we 
 counted four military trains in an hour. In other 
 respects Paris was like a city of the dead. What 
 is to be its fate ? I do not believe in a bombard- 
 ment. I am very glad you start on the 28th. 
 The sooner you are within my reach the better ; 
 we shall then have our letters in three days. I 
 wish I could have had you here, but it would 
 have been madness to attempt it. I think the 
 conduct of the Ministry is disgraceful. As for 
 
 , he is a beast of the first water, and I should 
 
 like to have the shaving of him. I have made 
 such a clearance of business that I shall be able 
 to go and see the waters play this afternoon. 
 
 Versailles, 20th October. Last night when I 
 came home from drinking tea with Countess 
 Visconti I found your letter with the enclosure 
 for Madame du Prat, which I will forward open 
 to her. People ought not to give closed letters 
 for French subjects. Hozier has arrived. He 
 brings me such wonderful stories from England 
 that I have rather come to the conclusion that 
 he has been sent as a spy on me. You know 
 that our public departments are capable of any 
 meanness, and they would be glad to do me an ill 
 turn if they could, because I have spoken the
 
 Letters from France. 343 
 
 truth to them. Do you remember M. le Sourd ? 
 He has been here with his mother, and was 
 arrested on Monday evening and has been sent 
 into Prussia. I cannot bat believe that he has 
 done something very foolish, or Bismarck would 
 hardly have taken so extreme a step. Call on 
 the Bernstoffs before you leave. He and Lord 
 Grranville have been engaged in a paper war, 
 which has done a deal of mischief ; but our law 
 on the arms question is a disgraceful one, that 
 there is no denying. But the law cannot be altered 
 during the present state of affairs, nor under the 
 pressure of another country. I wish there were 
 no pens, no paper, and above all no newspaper 
 correspondents ; the mischief they make, and the 
 rubbish they so often write, the shaves they spin, 
 and not always harmless ones. I had a visit 
 yesterday from an English sister of the Sacre 
 Coeur, who came to ask my aid in getting some 
 sisters out of Paris. What next I should like to 
 know ? 
 
 Versailles 21st October. As the firing is very 
 heavy and I have an opportunity of sending a 
 line direct to England, I shall write my last letter 
 to London this morning. It goes by a sister of 
 charity, who will post it as soon as she arrives. 
 I wish you could have got at the bottom of Hozier's 
 coming out. I am completely puzzled. Before 
 you start let General Eyre know. He will most 
 likely find out the real truth, which nobody has told 
 me as yet. Thank goodness I feel equal to them 
 all. As long as I do my duty as zealously and 
 straightforwardly as I have done, I have the
 
 344 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 certainty of coming out clean in the long run, 
 which is more than some persons will with whom 
 I have got to deal. 
 
 Versailles, 24^ October. I must begin my first 
 letter to Berlin, so as to let it greet you on arrival 
 there. I had a hottish afternoon on Friday, of 
 which I am now very glad, as I have not been 
 during the campaign as much under fire as I wished 
 and expected. In consequence of the large force 
 commanded by the Crown Prince, he is obliged to 
 remain in positions where he can see everything, 
 and I, of course, keep close to him. Now that I 
 have once done it so thoroughly I am not obliged 
 to do it again, so you need not think that I am 
 going to make a practice of seeking the bubble 
 reputation in this way. I went down on the fol- 
 lowing day and carefully examined the ground from 
 the very furthest outpost. As an ambulance with 
 the white flag had just left Valerien I felt perfectly 
 secure. The attack took place close to poor old 
 Josephine's favourite Malmaison, close to the wall 
 of which I saw two dead French soldiers still lying. 
 It was about as mad and ill-advised an enterprise 
 as ever was undertaken ; and from the composition 
 of the force I find great difficulty in assigning an 
 object to it. The French showed four battalions of 
 infantry, two regiments of cavalry, and thirty- six 
 or more guns, with a mitrailleuse battery. This 
 force could effect nothing ; but the sortie Bougival 
 cost 1,000 men in killed and wounded on both sides, 
 and the French left two guns in the hands of the 
 Prussians. A part of the regiment of Landwehr at 
 St. Germain came down and behaved splendidly.
 
 Letters from France. 345 
 
 Alvensleben is at Champlan, close to Palaisseau, 
 where we slept on the 19th September before 
 moving on to Versailles. I hope he will soon get a 
 couple of days' leave and come up to see me, as I 
 have written to say that I will give him a bed. I 
 cannot go away, as I never know what may happen, 
 and there is nothing for me to see there, but plenty 
 for him here. I am going to ride out to a place 
 called Grarches this afternoon, where I have not yet 
 been. The days are getting so short that I have to 
 start at 2 o'clock instead of half-past, for my 
 afternoon ride of observation. I had the news of 
 Lord Lome's engagement to Princess Louise direct 
 from Balmoral. It is a terrible disappointment 
 here, where there had always been the hope of a 
 marriage with Prince Albrecht. 
 
 25/& October. Who should turn up yesterday but 
 Alvensleben, looking very well, and greatly im- 
 proved by a beard. He had not much time, as he 
 wanted to see the chateau, and I to go out by 
 agreement with another person to the outposts ; but 
 he is coming up to breakfast at half -past 10, spend 
 the day, ride out to Yille d'Avray, and after an 
 early dinner drive back to Champlan. Yesterday 
 he was obliged to go back before I returned from 
 my ride. I went out to Garches, and from a 
 deserted and plundered house (such a sad scene 
 of senseless destruction) I had a view of the forts 
 south of Paris and of the walls. It is like looking 
 on a city of the dead ; there was not a sound nor a 
 sign of life. It made me quite melancholy ; so we 
 got on our horses and trotted off to the outposts. 
 Here we were very nearly having an adventure.
 
 346 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 Having left our horses at the last post, in a de- 
 serted farm, I and my two companions, one an 
 officer of the hussars of the Guard and Mr. Austin, 
 walked out through the wood to have a look at 
 Yalerien. Such heavy rain came on that we could 
 scarcely distinguish it, but a patrol of Prussian 
 Jagers, which came up from the right, distinguished 
 us, and were just going to fire on us, fancying that 
 I was a French general, and Herr von Grustedt, 
 with his red cap, my staff officer. Luckily one of 
 the party knew me, and called out just in time to 
 his comrade who was debating which of us he 
 should pick off " Why, that's the English colonel, 
 don't shoot." Austin was supposed to be a Franc- 
 Tireur in our company. I won't take Alvensleben 
 on any risky adventures. Where we are going to- 
 day is the point from which I expect the King will 
 see the attack on the forts, if they are attacked. 
 Certainly matters are going so slowly that my sus- 
 picion whether anything is really intended against 
 them does not seem altogether groundless. You 
 cannot think how worried and bothered I am. What 
 
 between exacting and dissatisfied letters, and 
 
 the incessant craving for correspondence on the part 
 of other people, I am nearly written blind. As to 
 Hozier, I have not seen him since the day before 
 yesterday. Whether he has been sent as a spy on 
 me, or for the purpose of making himself a repu- 
 tation at my expense, I do not know. He certainly 
 is not here to assist me. I want to get off a batch 
 of letters to-day if I can find time, all answers to 
 letters to me. A man who writes to recommend his 
 artificial legs and arms must wait for another day.
 
 Letters from Prance. 347 
 
 October 30/i. "We were to have had a sortie 
 yesterday, that is some Yankees said so, and nearly 
 everybody here, including Hozier, went off to St. 
 Germain to see the fight from the terrace. I 
 didn't, but rode out with Mr. Innes to the villa, 
 near Ville d'Avray, but there was nothing to be 
 seen for rain and fog ; and such a night as we have 
 had. I dined with Madame de Roullee, and had 
 such a walk there and back as one does not often 
 have. I kept saying to myself, " Thank goodness 
 I am not on picket," and pitied the poor fellows 
 who were. I wish you would buy a brougham 
 horse. Punch may not be home for months. Can- 
 nonier stands fire like a hero, but his near foreleg 
 is getting very shaky. I have a bad eye and bad 
 headache since the day before yesterday, from over- 
 writing. They say (that is, Captain Frazer, 1st 
 Life Guards, who watched the fight of the 21st 
 from near Marly, says) that ninety guns were play- 
 ing on us that afternoon, and that the principal fire 
 was directed on the spot where I happened to be 
 standing. I wish you would let me know in your 
 next letter if I still have that cavalry great-coat 
 with flat braid, which I had made for the Crimea. 
 I mean the one that makes me look like Noah. But 
 I fancy I gave it to Stockwell. Who should turn 
 up here but Alvensleben on his way to Marly, 
 where the Garde Landwehr is now established, so 
 that we are close together, and I shall often see 
 him. He looked uncommonly well. My eye is 
 better to-day, as Madame de Rouillee sent me some 
 lotion for it. I would give fifty pounds to learn all 
 the truth about Hozier. He has up to the present
 
 34$ Days of a Soldiers Life. 
 
 time rendered me no assistance whatever, and I 
 firmly believe liim to have come out, whether with 
 or without his own knowledge, as in some way 
 a spy on me- His whole manner is more than 
 suspicious. 
 
 November 1st. I think we must be going to have 
 a fight to-day, the firing is so heavy. I will be 
 very prudent this time, but much as I dislike being 
 shot at I prefer it to sitting at the writing table. 
 If there is a real fight I intend to get away to 
 Marly, and go in with Alvensleben and the Land- 
 wehr. 5.30j?.m. I have just come back from the 
 hottest fire I have been in during this campaign. 
 The French showed between thirty and forty batta- 
 lions covered by the guns of Yalerien. When I left 
 at a quarter past 4 they were completely driven 
 back. The fight was before Yauresson and La 
 Celle St. Cloud. 
 
 November 3rd. The weather is beautiful, but oh, 
 so cold for summer clothes, just like this time ten 
 years in China, only I have no emperor to plunder 
 of his furs. Think of beginning a siege now. I 
 can't and won't believe it. The preparations go on 
 so slowly, that I firmly believe no siege is intended. 
 Query? Is it more cruel to shoot people or to starve 
 them to death ? 
 
 November 4t,h. I went out yesterday and paid 
 Alvensleben a visit at Marly; he is lodged in a 
 very fine house, beautifully situated at the top of 
 the hill, but I am in hopes he will be moved to 
 Jouey, where he will be only half an hour from me. 
 He looks so well and in capital condition ; indeed, I 
 think the campaign has been an improvement to
 
 Letters from France. 349 
 
 both of us. We afterwards went up to the aque- 
 duct, but the afternoon got dull and the view 
 faded ; all we could see were two squadrons of 
 French cavalry exercising under Valerien, not a 
 shot was fired from the fort. I dined last night 
 with Madame Viscomte, carved for her, and made a 
 mess on the cloth, so you see I am just the same as 
 ever. Such bitter nights. I always get up at 4, 
 open my window, and then go to bed again. Last 
 night there was no firing to listen to. It freezes 
 hard every night. If you had only had this weather 
 last week. 
 
 6th November. Everybody except myself expects 
 a sortie to-day, because it is the anniversary of 
 Jemappes. I am looked on here as a most un- 
 believing infidel because I don't believe one quarter 
 of the stories got up. I did not hear a single shot 
 fired last night or this morning. Can Thiers have 
 brought hopes of peace from the outposts yesterday ? 
 I am glad that you went to see the Bernstoffs. 
 He has made a sad donkey of himself, and has done 
 his best to get up a quarrel between the two 
 countries, not, I believe, from ill-will, but either 
 from stupidity, or by Bismarck's orders. The Govern- 
 ment have placed a thousand pounds at my disposal 
 for the destitute English ; it is really noble, and 
 leaves me free to act on my own discretion. This is 
 my holiday. I go about in a doleful hack carriage 
 and pay visits the whole afternoon. My lunatic was 
 here yesterday and paid me what I had lent her. 
 Fancy Crealock writing to ask if he can come out 
 here. I think the pushing of the Government has 
 been indecent in the extreme. I don't suppose they
 
 350 Days of a Soldier s Life, 
 
 have ever before had so many plain truths told them 
 in the War Office, and Foreign Office, as they have 
 heard from me since the beginning of this cam- 
 paign. There are such cats here. I have one with 
 a fuzzy tail, the other is a beast ate my breakfast 
 and smashed one of Miss Chambellan's vases. 
 
 November 8th. I have had a satisfactory letter 
 from the War Office, also a telegram from Lord 
 Granville desiring me to correspond in future with 
 the Foreign Office. I am full of business to-day, 
 and am expecting my country people out of 
 Paris. I have another here, who was caught in 
 a balloon near Yerdun. I had seven visits this 
 morning while I was writing, and more letters to 
 write than would alone occupy half the day. Don't 
 think that I am overworked, I never was better in 
 my life ; but if I only had a secretary instead of an 
 assistant (who never comes near me) what a comfort 
 it would be. 
 
 November 12th. I had a nun with me the other 
 day, a slippery one too, who came to try and get 
 round the Crown Prince, on a point which he was 
 incapable of deciding. I would not give her an 
 introduction to Eulenburg, till she had thoroughly 
 explained to me what it was she wanted, and she 
 paid me the compliment of telling me that I was 
 the hardest man she had ever had to deal with. I 
 repaid the compliment by asking her how old she 
 was, and on telling me she was forty-six, said, 
 " You are forty years too old ; if it had been a 
 child of six you would have had a better chance of 
 bamboozling me." She wanted the Prince to assist 
 in breaking one of the stipulations of the Geneva
 
 Letters from France. 351 
 
 Convention. I said to her, " So you want this 
 clause abrogated?" " Oh, no," she said, "only a 
 dispensation from it." To which my only remark 
 was, " Ma'am, we are all benighted Protestants here 
 and don't know anything about dispensations ; laws 
 are either kept or broken." After a succession of 
 nasty days we have it clear again, but bitterly cold. 
 I dined yesterday with a pleasant French family, 
 but had such a wet tramp to and fro. Mr. Wode- 
 house and the rest will I hope be all cleared out by 
 to-morrow ; not that I want to get rid of Wode- 
 house, who is a very nice fellow ; but his lot are 
 awful cads, and appear to have but two ideas, 
 drink and a desire to throw themselves on any- 
 thing or body but their own resources. I have 
 just had a telegram announcing that Mr. Odo 
 Russell and Captain Bobbins were to leave England 
 last night for Versailles. There has been some- 
 thing very like a French victory near Orleans, out 
 of which place General Palladine turned Yon der 
 Tann on the 9th, fighting and beating him on the 
 10th on the road from Orleans to Etampes. The 
 way it has been kept secret here is a caution to 
 cats. 
 
 November 16th. The chops and changes of this 
 sublunary existence have relieved Alvensleben from 
 his post of watchdog in our front at Argenteuil, 
 and he is now looking after our backs at a delight- 
 ful country residence of the 1st Company, llth 
 Battalion, llth Garde Landwehr Regiment, called 
 Fontenay de Fleury, but I hope will find more time 
 to come and look after me, and perhaps to take a 
 decent rest in the spare fleabag on the upper story
 
 352 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 of my house. I really don't think that I have any 
 despatch to write to-day. I have spoilt them with 
 hard work, and now intend to treat them to a spell 
 of idleness ; in fact, I took an outing yesterday, 
 went over to St. Germain, paid a visit to General 
 v. Loen, inspected the English ambulance, visited 
 Miss Trotter, and dawdled there so long that I was 
 pulled up by the sentries on the road, having 
 omitted to get the parole and countersign, and had 
 to pass half an hour waiting for a civil young 
 officer, who not only released me but provided me 
 with the necessary shibboleth. Alvensleben is very 
 anxious to bag a Frenchman. I wonder if he 
 means to send in his ears as an offering to me. 
 
 November 20th. There has been a young English- 
 man in confinement here, having been captured in a 
 balloon near Verdun on the 27th October. Lord 
 Granville telegraphed to me to find out all about 
 him, which I had done long before, but gave me 
 no instructions to demand his release, which, 
 knowing that I should have a refusal, I abstained 
 from doing. I furnished him with a change of 
 clothes and a small advance of money on his de- 
 parture for Germany, which took place last Mon- 
 day ; no demand for his release was made by, nor 
 was any offer for his release made to, me. In the 
 middle of the night before last I received the fol- 
 lowing telegram from Lord Granville : " November 
 18, Times correspondent from Versailles, states, on 
 the 14th that Prussian authorities had offered to 
 liberate Worth on his parole to return to England 
 on your guarantee, which you had refused, and on 
 the 15th that he had been sent to Meudon to be tried
 
 Letters from France. 353 
 
 by court-martial. Let me know how the case stands 
 as regards each particular." To this I answered, 
 and also wrote by post, " Prussian authorities 
 made no offer to liberate Worth on my guarantee, 
 I therefore could never have refused." The state- 
 ment of the Times correspondent is in this respect 
 utterly devoid of truth. Worth, as I have reported 
 to London and Berlin, has been sent to Germany, 
 I hear to Cologne. Minden was first named, for 
 which Meudon has probably been mistaken. At 
 9 a.m. Mr. Odo Russell reached Versailles, and on 
 my seeing him a little later completely relieved my 
 mind by telling me that my action in this matter, 
 and particularly my abstention from making any 
 demand for Worth's release, had not only the 
 unqualified approbation of Lord Grranville, but the 
 case having been submitted to the law officer of 
 the Foreign Office, he had declared that there was 
 no ground for doing so. Mr. Odo Russell's arrival 
 has been a great comfort to me. In the first place 
 he has scattered to the winds all the lying reports 
 which have been so industriously spread here lately; 
 in the next place he has assured me that my 
 management during the campaign of this most 
 ticklish post, made more ticklish by the irregular 
 nature of my appointment, has met with approba- 
 tion at home, and that I have acted throughout 
 (although I have never had an instruction or even 
 a hint from home) in perfect accordance with the 
 views and wishes of the Ministry. This is very 
 satisfactory, and will help me over many a stum- 
 bling block which the envy, hatred, and malice of 
 one or two bad men have tried to lay in my way. 
 
 2 A
 
 354 Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 General Blumenthal offered some time ago to have 
 the correspondents turned out of Versailles, but I 
 begged him not to do so. Dinner at the Crown 
 Prince's yesterday. The King, Grand Duke of 
 Baden, and Mr. Odo Russell. The King was quite 
 affectionate, and from one word he spoke to me I 
 gather that Mr. Odo Russell's mission has produced 
 a good effect. 
 
 November 26th. The French have woke up a 
 little, and have taken to firing viciously at night ; 
 and again, between 6 and 7 a.m. this morning, 
 they made such a noise that I thought there was 
 going to be a sortie. I dare say they will carry this 
 on till the Prussians are accustomed to this morning 
 salutation, and will then sortie in reality. They 
 tried to throw a bridge across the Seine somewhere 
 near Argenteuil the day before yesterday, but the 
 attempt failed. Versailles was full of rumours 
 yesterday. M. Thiers was again here; peace was 
 imminent ; Prince F. Carl had gained a great victory 
 on the Loire ; the Prussians were to receive four 
 milliards, and were to retire to Alsace and Lorraine 
 while Trochu punished the Reds, and so on. People 
 here are extremely desirous that the Russian 
 difficulty should not lead to war, they don't want 
 this further complication, which I must say has 
 been much aggravated by the imbecile violence of 
 the English press. I wish you could see the good 
 man for whom the Johannita things are coming. 
 He is a most worthy old fellow of the name of 
 de Havilland, full of zeal, thinks the order the most 
 important institution in Europe ; very choleric, but 
 an excellent creature, and full of the milk of human
 
 Letters from France. 355 
 
 kindness, and lias such a nose, if he could only wag 
 it he might make a fortune of his proboscis. What 
 is the balloon newspaper? If I pick up any curiosity 
 of the kind you shall have it. 
 
 29th November. I think the sortie has come at 
 last. About half -past 6 the French began to fire, 
 and the sound now is so continuous towards the 
 6th Corps and the Bavarians that I have no doubt 
 of what it is. Alvensleben is still fast asleep, and 
 I shan't disturb him till breakfast is ready. He 
 came over early yesterday and we had a good ride 
 together. I had to dine with the Crown Prince, 
 but Innes took care of him, and I did not see him 
 again, as I had tumbled into bed rather tired before 
 he came home. Mr. Odo Russell told me last night 
 that he thought the question of the Conference was 
 settled, and that the place of meeting would be 
 London. Whether this disposes of the Russian 
 war for the present depends on Russia. If her 
 behaviour at the Conference is as insolent as was 
 Grortshakoff's note, it may come to war yet ; but my 
 own opinion is that it is deferred for the present. 
 I got such a quantity of letters yesterday that I 
 have not half read them yet. How they are 
 pounding ; it must be towards Choisy le Roi by the 
 sound. I have no doubt they will come out towards 
 St. Germain before long. Alvensleben's battalion 
 will have to march to Versailles, as the Landwehr 
 is to guard us, while the garrison turns out. The 
 French have my beautiful boots ; they stopped the 
 last convoy near Vernon, and my poor boots are 
 with it. As the Prussians have taken Amiens, I 
 must only hope that they will be soon in Rouen and 
 
 2 A 2
 
 356 D.ays of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 Vernon and release my parcel. I am going this 
 afternoon to a convent at Montreuil to visit some 
 wounded and make acquaintance with the sister of 
 Madame de Roullee's son-in-law, who is mother 
 superior. Lord Granville has approved the course 
 taken by me in the Worth affair. I had a letter 
 from Mr. Worth's mother yesterday which I will 
 send you to read. Alvensleben is hard at work com- 
 posing a letter to the child, and groaning over it. 
 Perhaps it is only the table which creaks, but it 
 sounds like groans. I am going out this afternoon 
 with Mr. Wodehouse to look at the forts. He does 
 not seem to think that Paris has any intention of 
 surrendering. I am very anxious about the news 
 from Orleans. I think the Bavarians have had a 
 licking, but I can't get at the real truth. The 
 
 letter you sent me was for Lady -'s maid. 
 
 You never saw such an old diable as it is. She nearly 
 threw The Daily News at my head when I took her 
 the last. She is a thoroughly bigoted old Tory, 
 one of those who won't even hear the other side and 
 who don't believe in any class but their own. She 
 has quarrelled with all her relations, and passes the 
 remainder of her days in making her servants as 
 miserable as she can. She is, however, a very 
 clever old woman, and I can honestly say that I 
 enjoy an hour's chat with her on a Sunday. The 
 last four days have been days of most intense 
 anxiety to me in consequence of the state of affairs 
 here, the alarming reports which are flying about, 
 both respecting the position at Versailles and the 
 relations with England, and the fact that I stand 
 between our country people, and Germans, and
 
 Letters from France. 357 
 
 French, as a sort of neutral authority, make my 
 position one of the greatest delicacy. 
 
 SOth November. You never heard such a row as 
 there has been last night. The French have been 
 firing like madmen, from Yalerien and round to 
 Fort Issy, made an attack on the 6th Corps and the 
 Wurtembergers, and were fighting hard when the 
 last accounts left. I have this morning received 
 the Queen's permission to wear the Iron Cross, at 
 which I am much pleased. I have had all my 
 clothes mended up, so I am in fine order again. 
 Fancy my not being able to sleep last night on 
 account of the awful row. 
 
 Versailles, December 2nd. It was a very serious 
 fight on the 30th, though we saw nothing of it. 
 The "Wurtembergers lost 40 officers and 700 men. 
 The French must have lost 3,000 men on the day's 
 operations. I do not believe that Prussia was at 
 the bottom of the Russian note ; I have very good 
 reason for saying so. Mr. Odo Russell is so nice. 
 He has told everybody who has applied to him on 
 business to go to Colonel "Walker, that he has a 
 special mission here, and that the only person with 
 any official position is myself. I shall not soon 
 forget what he has done for me. 
 
 December 4th. I was indulging in an extra half- 
 hour's laziness for Sunday morning when I heard a 
 ring at the bell, and who should march in but 
 Alvensleben, fully equipped for the journey to 
 Massy, to which place his regiment has been 
 ordered. I fancy that matters are not going 
 very well in that direction. The 2nd Corps has 
 had to go round to the assistance of the Wurtem-
 
 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 bergers, and the Landwehr must fill up the gap. 
 There is no doubt that the French are making 
 tremendous efforts to break out. Trochu and the 
 generals evidently want to save the army and leave 
 Paris to its fate. Matters have not gone well since 
 the 30th ; there has been indecision and its usual 
 consequences, and Podbielski told an official lie 
 which is a disgrace to our profession. Let the 
 others tell as many as they please, and when we 
 are in a scrape let us hold our tongues, but not tell 
 lies. Alvensleben and I are quite ashamed of him. 
 I am so sorry Alvensleben has gone further from 
 me, as his visits were a great pleasure, and I was 
 looking forward to his coming in and spending 
 to-morrow or Tuesday with me. Mr. Odo Russell 
 has taken a great liking to him. That good 
 Madame de Roullee has given me a charming bust 
 of Marie Antoinette, as a wedding present for 
 Alice, made at Sevres. Think of the China manu- 
 factory having been turned into the line of defence. 
 I found such a charming point of observation 
 between St. Cloud and Sevres the last time I was 
 there that I must go again. It is now very difficult 
 to find points from which one can observe anything 
 worth looking at without drawing fire on the out- 
 posts, and that I carefully avoid doing. If Alven- 
 sleben does not come back I shall try to get a 
 carriage and drive over to Massy, as I have not 
 seen that part of the country yet ; it is just south 
 of Chatenay. Bitterly cold to-day ; we have had 
 frost and then snow, and rain and thaw, and now 
 a biting hard frost again. 
 
 6th December. How good the tea you sent me is.
 
 Letters from France. 359 
 
 I like it so mucli better than coffee, which is heat- 
 ing, not but one wants heating in this bitter weather. 
 I feel for the poor fellows on outpost duty, who are 
 most insufficiently clothed. Really the way the 
 Prussian Government neglects the sanitary efficiency 
 of its men is scandalous. The sick have little or 
 nothing but what private charity gives them. I 
 have just had a visit from Colonel Baker, who has 
 no mercy on me, and takes up my time by the hour, 
 without thinking whether I am busy or not. He 
 has been refused permission to remain, because, 
 while I was applying officially for him, he went off 
 to the outposts near Ormesson, where he was 
 arrested and sent back to Versailles. When this 
 was reported to the King he refused to grant the 
 application. I only got through half my visits 
 yesterday, as my cocker failed me, so I have to look 
 out for another. 
 
 December 10th. Alvensleben came over on Thurs- 
 day, dined with me, drank tea with Madame Yiscomti 
 (where we both became seriously obfuscated with 
 her mixture of strong tea, lemon, and rum), and 
 was, of course, summoned back to Fontenay just as 
 we were sitting down to breakfast. The old French 
 nobleman at Folkestone is quite right ; General 
 "Werder has strict orders, if he catches that old fool 
 Garibaldi, to let him go again, as being far more 
 harm than help to the French. Hozier came back 
 yesterday. Reilly was caught at Orleans, and has 
 been sent back to England. Our Government is 
 really so indiscreet that some day there will be an 
 unpleasant blow up. Fielding, I hear, is with some 
 other part of the French army, distinguishing him-
 
 360 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 self by a partizanship which no doubt is pleasing 
 to our present Government. I wish my breakfast 
 would come I am getting awfully hungry. 
 
 December ~\\ih. I have written to friends in 
 England to see if they will give me a little money 
 for French families of respectability who are starving 
 for want of means, no pensions, or dividends, or 
 rents being now paid in this distracted land. I 
 have given all I can spare, and have made three 
 families easy for the time ; but what is that ? 
 There are scores here who are living on bread and 
 vegetables and what little they had stored up in 
 their house. I hear that candles are running short 
 a pleasant prospect in these short days, when 
 warmth and light are necessaries of life, Wilhelm 
 assures me that my wood merchant has still plenti- 
 ful supplies. These wood fires are very pleasant 
 but awfully expensive, and my sitting-room, which 
 has a window at each end, is never thoroughly 
 warm; but I only breakfast there and receive 
 visitors. The capitulation of Paris seems further 
 off than ever. I fear we are still far from the end 
 of this horrible war. 
 
 December 12th. Thank goodness the weather has 
 changed, and it has become quite mild and pleasant. 
 Yesterday was really intolerable a bitter frost, and 
 so horribly damp, that I felt like an icicle all day, 
 and hardly got thawed at night. I have just 
 received such a budget from England maps and 
 envelopes, and another letter of approval from the 
 F. 0. of the discretion I showed in a small matter 
 some time back. I have also a most kind letter 
 from "Windsor Castle telling me I am to be made a
 
 Letters from France. 361 
 
 local major-general ; also Claremont, to whom I 
 have just written a line, hoping to be able to get it 
 into Paris. All quiet to-day, but I think we are 
 going to have a swinker before long. 
 
 December 20th. If you have not sent off my 
 medals I think you had better keep them, as 
 the whole of Dr. Innes' were stolen yesterday 
 by Prussian soldiers. There was a search for 
 arms throughout the town, and as he is away at 
 Orleans they had full opportunity to turn over 
 his papers &c., which had been left in an open 
 bureau, and the orders are missing. I don't know 
 if they were there, when the search was made, 
 except from the statement of the concierge, who 
 may be the thief, but it does not look like it. The 
 fact is that the 5th Corps has an unusual number 
 of light-fingered gentry from Poland, and the 
 question of plunder has been so lightly treated 
 that it has grown at length to a great evil. 
 Claremont's cottage, near Louveciennes, was com- 
 pletely sacked between the day on which we 
 visited it and my return there four days after- 
 wards with a " sauf conduit " for his gardener. 
 Alvensleben came yesterday and we rode out 
 together to the outposts before Malmaison, as I 
 wanted to get a look at the house, so as to be 
 able to write a few lines for the Queen, who 
 interests himself much in the condition of such 
 places. We got to the look-out, close behind and 
 above the park wall, without being observed, and 
 had a good view of the house and park of Eueil, 
 of the most advanced pickets, and of Valerien. 
 Malmaison has been very much knocked about
 
 362 Days of a Soldiers Life. 
 
 with, shells, and will probably some day be set 
 on fire. All the furniture has been removed, and 
 I fear a good deal plundered. Our point of 
 departure was Villa Metternich, which has been 
 preciously knocked about by French shells and 
 German thieves ; everything in the house had 
 been turned topsey-turvey. The view over Chaton 
 and Vezinet, with the Seine at our feet, was 
 charming, though the day was too dull for a good 
 effect. However, on a fine day we should most 
 probably have been shelled from Valerien, which 
 we escaped, getting only one, as the young officer 
 on picket called it, " the evening ration," just as 
 we were mounting to ride home. It was bitterly 
 cold, and glad we were to get back again to my 
 comfortable fireside. We found the town in great 
 excitement about the search for arms which was 
 taking place. I cannot learn that any were found 
 except in the shops of two gunmakers, who had 
 concealed their stores instead of giving them up 
 when previously warned, and I should think that 
 it will go hard with them. Countess Yiscomti 
 talked me to sleep last night as usual. Her voice 
 is as good as a nightcap to me, and I always doze 
 off gently when she holds forth. She would make 
 an invaluable nurse for Bismarck, who can't sleep, 
 whereas it is all thrown away on me, who sleep 
 like a dormouse. How it does freeze, and it is 
 trying to snow. The boots you sent me have 
 arrived, and are most welcome. I don't suppose 
 I shall ever see the others, though things do turn 
 up in an odd way sometimes. I saw Alvensleben 
 for a moment yesterday, when he came in to make
 
 Letters from France. 363 
 
 Christinas purchases for his company. I gave him 
 twenty francs towards their entertainment, but I 
 have not much to spare at present, as I have given 
 all I could to French families, reduced by the war 
 to the greatest poverty, and I must try and find 
 another 100 francs, as I have heard of another sad 
 case. 
 
 Christmas Day. Not a very cheery Christmas, 
 but we must take the world as it comes and do our 
 duty. We will hope to be all together this day next 
 year. I have had a bad headache since the night 
 before last, caused, I think, by the intense cold. 
 If I, with all my comforts, feel it, what must the 
 poor men on outpost duty do ? It is wonderful how 
 the Germans bear the weather, that is to say the 
 cold weather. Heat knocks them up, but they 
 thrive again, the moment it begins to freeze. We 
 had a Christmas tree, or rather two, at the Crown 
 Prince's last night, and a lottery, at which I won a 
 stand for matches and an ash-dish the latter very 
 useful, as the mess I make would shock you. I 
 wonder if I shall get up the heat in my breakfast 
 room above freezing. I hate breakfasting in my 
 bedroom, but shall really be driven to it if the 
 frost increases. The house is built for summer, and 
 certainly not for such weather as we now have. 
 
 27th December. Snow and a sortie. Hammer 
 and tongs somewhere down south-east of Paris. I 
 suspect the 6th Corps. The big boots are warming 
 at the fire, and old Punch must jog along through 
 the snow if we have to turn out. I expect Alven- 
 sleben this afternoon to dine and sleep. I like 
 having him, and all my friends here like him, which
 
 364 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 is very pleasant. I am happy to say the corre- 
 spondents are all quarrelling amongst themselves. 
 Try to send me the X Zeitung of the 24th December. 
 There is an article against me, taken from the 
 Colnisher Zeitung, which must have been inspired 
 by the father of lies ; there is not a word of truth in 
 it from beginning to end. Do not trouble to send 
 all the Times, only those you know I shall like to 
 see. There is no sortie, but fire has been opened on 
 Mont Avron ; the fire is now, 1 p.m., almost silent. 
 I dine with the King to-night. 
 
 30th December. The day is lovely but still very 
 cold, as there is a nasty wind which cuts off the 
 fingers. Avron is not only silent but silenced. 
 There is very heavy, steady firing to-day, said to be 
 against Forts Rosny and Nogent. I also hear that 
 the barracks at Issy have been abandoned and the 
 garrison sent down to the Casements. I shall go 
 to-morrow and have a look at Yalerien if I can get 
 a companion. I think Captain Haworth will go with 
 me. To-night I dine with the Crown Prince. Last 
 night I dined with Mr. Odo Russell. You cannot 
 think how kind the old King has been about my 
 promotion. He certainly is one of the kindest- 
 hearted old men in existence, though he does eat a 
 grilled baby every day. Perhaps he would try a 
 correspondent by way of a change. 
 
 January ~Lst, 1871. Only one line to forward, 
 as commanded, every good wish of the season to 
 you from the Crown Prince, a message which he 
 desired you would share with Alice. Lovely 
 summer weather; the thermometer is only 11 below 
 zero.
 
 Letters from Prance. 365 
 
 January. The bombardment began this 
 morning, with what result I do not know, but 
 expect not much, as there is a strange sort of fog 
 just over the batteries and the French forts. 
 Alvensleben is here, having come over from his 
 filthy nest to see how I was. He is only three- 
 quarters of an hour from Versailles. 
 
 6th January, 1871. Such a lovely day, if it were 
 not for snow on the ground and about 10 degrees 
 of cold. I have had to give up one room, as, after 
 spending six francs a day for fuel for a whole fort- 
 night, I never could warm it sufficiently to keep 
 from shuddering when I went into it. 
 
 January 8th, 187 1. Alvensleben has just ridden 
 over to see me, looking remarkably well, and, I 
 grieve to say, filling out again. I must really try 
 to get over to see him, but all interest is at present 
 concentrated in the siege, which is going on most 
 favourably. Issy and Yanves are terribly knocked 
 about, and are quite silent. Alvensleben was em- 
 ployed the night before last in opening the first 
 parallel in front of Clamart. The weather is more 
 horrible than you can imagine, and I can't shake off 
 my cold, and we have two or three seasons and two 
 or three climates in every twenty- four hours. 
 
 January \\ih. Such a row since 7 a.m. I think 
 it must be Trochu's last struggle, and I should not 
 like to miss it ; but how to get out the roads are 
 so slippery that I shall probably have to carry 
 Punch. Bourbakie is certainly not at or near 
 Fontainebleau, as or at least the army which is 
 supposed to be his was thrashed on the 9th a very 
 long way off from Fontainebleau ; in fact, he is a
 
 366 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 very bad hat indeed, and stands a good chance of 
 being eaten up altogether. Chanzy has been com- 
 pletely beaten back, ditto Faidherbe, and the 
 Germans are free to work their " wicked will" on 
 Paris. The noise is over. I don't believe it was a 
 sortie after all ; more probably fire has been opened 
 on Issy from Notre Dame de Clamont. 
 
 January 17th. I expect Alvensleben to breakfast, 
 as we had planned a little expedition to the front, 
 but the day is so windy and bitterly cold that I 
 hardly think we shall attempt it. This is certainly 
 a delightful climate ; in fact, I am fast coming to 
 the conclusion that all climates are alike. Yester- 
 day it froze all day till the sun came out, when I 
 had to open my great-coat. It froze again after- 
 wards, rained when I went to dinner, froze again 
 so that I could have skated home, and it blew all 
 night. The news of General v. Werder's repulse 
 of Bourbakie has given great satisfaction here. 
 Faidherbe is said to be moving, whether with his 
 army or with his pen remains to he proved. I dine 
 at home now to spare my cold. It is dull work, 
 but better than tramping home an English mile 
 through the dirt to dinner elsewhere. To-morrow 
 is a grand function, Ordensfest, and I believe pro- 
 clamation of the Empire, after which dinner at the 
 King's. 
 
 January 19^. A sortie to-day, why didn't the 
 fools come out yesterday ? They would have found 
 us all busy Emperor-making, and, if they did 
 nothing else, would have given a good many worthy 
 gentlemen the trouble of a hasty drive home again. 
 What a day it was, even now I can hardly write
 
 Letters from France. 367 
 
 of the old King's farewell address to the assembled 
 princes and to the people of the reconstructed 
 Empire. The ceremony took place in the long 
 gallery, when I arrived already filled with spec- 
 tators. Joining the staff of the Crown Prince I 
 found myself within a few feet of the estrade, which 
 had been erected at the end of the gallery, while 
 places were assigned to my companions (Colonel 
 Lennox, R.E., and Inspector-General Innes) im- 
 mediately opposite. One side of the gallery was 
 occupied by officers of the staff, and garrison of 
 Versailles, and from the armies before Paris, the 
 other, by deputations from the regiments, while 
 ranged in a half-circle at the back of the estrade 
 were the colours of the regiments, each carried by 
 a non-commissioned officer wearing the Iron Cross. 
 After service and a sermon the procession proceeded 
 to the estrade, conducted by Counts Piickler and 
 Perponcher only, and accompanied by no other 
 sign of state or ceremony. The King at once 
 turned to the assembled princes and read his 
 speech with a more than ordinary clear and un- 
 faltering voice, with a total absence of anything 
 approaching pleasure or exultation. This was 
 immediately followed by the reading the solemn 
 Act by Count Bismarck, on the conclusion of which 
 the Grand Duke of Baden called for Iloch to the 
 " Deutscher Kaiser." The response was a cheer 
 which shook the windows, and was repeated till the 
 hall resounded with the manifestation of hearty 
 loyalty. The Emperor then turned to his son and 
 gave him his hand, which the Crown Prince covered 
 with kisses, and falling on one knee embraced his
 
 368 Days of a Soldier s Life. 
 
 father's knees, who, raising him in his arms, kissed 
 him again and again, his brother-in-law, the 
 Grand Duke of Weimar, kissing his right shoulder. 
 The King kissed his brother Charles on the right 
 cheek, and after receiving the congratulations of 
 the members of the royal house, turned and 
 acknowledged those of the reigning and other 
 princes, taking each of them by the hand. After 
 an inspection of the standards, and a few kindly 
 words to their bearers, the Emperor took place in 
 the centre of the dais, and the assembled witnesses 
 advancing in turn bowed and quitted the imperial 
 presence. As the procession was again formed, the 
 Emperor went down the ranks of the regimental 
 deputations, singling out a man here and there for 
 kindly recognition, and passed out from the scene 
 of this great ceremony, the band playing the march 
 of Hohenfriedberg. In the evening there was a 
 dinner of 120 covers in the Prefecture, at which 
 the Emperor presided. I have seen the Emperor 
 under many and varied circumstances during the 
 five years and a half of my employment in his 
 country, but never so earnest as on this occasion, 
 and I left the palace deeply impressed with the 
 feeling that, of all present, no one had more fully 
 felt the importance of this great step than the 
 monarch, on whom, at an age past the ordinary span 
 of life, such new duties and responsibilities had 
 fallen. I hardly know what has been doing to- 
 day ; there has been shooting ever since early this 
 morning. Much cry and little wool I fancy, the 
 only wool I have seen, being about twenty French 
 prisoners, half a dozen wounded Prussians, and an
 
 Letters from France. 369 
 
 artillery fire, which certainly did not look like 
 coming on with determination. However, the 
 French are supposed to be lying in the slush out- 
 side and the Germans inside their lines, and I fully 
 expect the game will go on again with renewed 
 force to-morrow morning. I look upon this as the 
 expiring struggle, but shall not be surprised if it 
 last three days. I believe the French got into 
 Montretout and Garches, but were driven out 
 again, and I am not sure that this did not happen 
 twice in the day. 
 
 January 24th. I had such an expedition on Satur- 
 day, getting out to Montretout just as the French 
 sent out to beg leave to be allowed to bury their 
 dead, so I was able to get into the redoubt and look 
 about me quite undisturbed by shells or chassepots. 
 I saw down the Seine as far as Neuilly and the 
 whole line of fire both from Paris and the 
 German batteries. St. Cloud (the village), of which 
 the last house had just been set on fire, lay at my 
 feet ; behind me was Garches, and in front Yalerien 
 and the whole battlefield of last Thursday. It was 
 an opportunity which will not be likely to occur 
 again till the conclusion of the siege (if it ever 
 does conclude). The French must have lost very 
 heavily, and did absolutely nothing but kill and 
 wound about 500 men on this side. I really feel 
 ashamed of my trade when I see such things done, 
 and reflect that Colonel Ainslie used to thrust these 
 men down our throats for so many years as the 
 only examples worth following. The actual fight- 
 ing began exactly where that of the 21st of October 
 ended, that having been directed against the 10th 
 
 2 B
 
 37O Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 Division, this against the 9th. Yesterday I was 
 out there again, a very different kind of business, 
 as I had to crouch behind a wall and squint through 
 a shot-hole; but General Kameke, who does not 
 yet know the roads, having only come at the begin- 
 ning of this month, had asked me to pilot him. Of 
 course there was a great deal less to be seen, but I 
 still managed to pick up some new ideas, and we 
 had a very pleasant ride by the Emperor's hunting 
 lodge at Villeneuve 1'Etang, through the park of 
 which, our way from Marne to Garches lay. St. 
 Cloud has been burnt to the last house to prevent 
 the French from occupying the buildings. They 
 made such a mess of their last sortie that they 
 forgot to call off 18 officers and 340 men from 
 St. Cloud, out of which they were ferreted the 
 next day and brought prisoners to Versailles. 
 Fancy the leaders leaving those poor men to their 
 fate. 
 
 January 26th. Yesterday I went to see Alvens- 
 leben, about fifty minutes' drive, and found him 
 eating his luncheon after coming back from the 
 front, where his company had been at work. He 
 is lodged in a magnificent chateau, situated in a 
 very pretty country as well as I could see for the 
 fog, but he has anything but a liberal landlord. I 
 took him out a keg of anchovies and a tongue, 
 which one of the party thought would be very good 
 raw, but I think we laughed him out of cannibalism. 
 Jules Favre came out the night before last, had two 
 interviews with Bismarck, who was with the King, 
 at 1.30 a.m. There was a conference yesterday 
 morning, and he went back again to Paris, and is
 
 Letters from France. 371 
 
 expected to return to-morrow. I know nothing 
 more. There are, of course, stories without end, 
 but they are pretty sure to be lies, and nothing 
 worth having will be let out of that we may be 
 sure. I do not think Paris is very far from capitu- 
 lation. There was a row in Paris on Tuesday ; the 
 mob demanded another sortie and more vigorous 
 measures in general, and that Yinoy, who has 
 succeeded Trochu, should be dismissed. He came 
 out on horseback, and on their making further 
 demonstrations against him fired on the mob and 
 shot down a good batch of them. 
 
 January 27th. I believe the capitulation will be 
 signed to-day; at any rate Jules Favre went into 
 Paris again last evening for the purpose of coming 
 out this morning with military officers capable of 
 arranging the necessary military questions. I was 
 down at Belle vue yesterday watching the firing, 
 which was pretty sharp, particularly from Point 
 du Jour. It was kept up very heavily till mid- 
 night, when it ceased, and as it has not recom- 
 menced this morning, and General v. Blumenthal 
 has not sent back a peace telegram which I sent up 
 early this morning, I conclude that we really are 
 near the end. 
 
 297& January. Paris surrenders ; the forts are 
 now being given up. There is an armistice of 
 twenty-one days, the details of which are now being 
 discussed. The army remains in Paris after giving 
 up its arms and all prisoners of war. Eeprovi- 
 sioning allowed, and a post will be established 
 between Versailles and Paris. Communication with 
 Paris will for the present be very much restricted ; 
 
 2 E 2
 
 37 2 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 I hope, however, to find an opportunity for sending 
 in money. 
 
 February 1st. I had a most interesting drive 
 yesterday with Alvensleben. "We went along 
 the plateau and inspected the batteries above 
 Clamart, Fleury, Meudon, Bellevue, and Sevres. 
 The chateau at Meudon has been burnt out, some 
 say by accident, others by design. I send you the 
 first envelope which I have had out of Paris, and 
 which reached me this morning. The want there 
 is something terrible, as the authorities appear to 
 have postponed the surrender to almost the last 
 day. It is said Ducrot voted for giving in six 
 weeks ago, that Trochu has become nearly inca- 
 pable from want of sleep and shattered nerves. 
 Except persons connected with the elections and 
 with the business of reprovisioning, no one is allowed 
 in or out, so one knows little more about Paris than 
 before the surrender. 
 
 February 7th. Nobody here seems to anticipate 
 much from the elections, which it is supposed will 
 turn out very republican as far as Versailles is 
 concerned. The whole rather turns on the ques- 
 tion whether Gambetta will be able to assume the 
 dictatorship of France. As to the Empire, I see 
 no chance of its re-establishment, though I am not 
 one of those who attribute all the vices of France 
 to Napoleon's rule. It must be a poor nation which 
 allows itself to be thoroughly perverted in nineteen 
 years. It is curious that my telegram of Friday 
 appears to have been the first intimation to nearly 
 all Europe that the capitulation was imminent. It 
 was repeated from London to all parts of the world.
 
 Letters from France. 373 
 
 Fancy its reaching Brunswick, and Munich, before 
 direct news via Berlin. I hear Bismarck and 
 Moltke are furious. I am very busy sending in 
 some comforts to sick ladies in Paris. 
 
 February 9th. I think everybody here is hopeful 
 for peace. The 5th Corps is off this morning for 
 Orleans, and the 4th will march in a day or two, I 
 fancy towards the west. What will become of us 
 in case of a move I have no idea. I got such a 
 ducking yesterday. I rode out to Montretout, 
 where I had a fine view over Paris, clear as it often 
 is before rain, but not bright ; then over some parts 
 of the last battlefield to Buzanval, where I got 
 entangled in woods, and home by La Bergerie 
 and Vauresson. At La Bergerie it began to rain, 
 and I came home looking like anything but a 
 respectable English general, and what was worse 
 found that I had lost my iron cross, a deficiency 
 supplied before I went out to dinner with the 
 Crown Prince. That wretched football of fate, 
 Alvensleben, only had two days of Marly, and is 
 now in Yalerien. I little thought when I was look- 
 ing at the grim beast yesterday that he was already 
 installed there, but heard it at dinner. I am going 
 to send in a lot of provisions to Paris to-day, to be 
 given to women only, through Dr. Gordon. I even 
 now cannot quite make up my mind about the real 
 state of matters there. Madame de Roullee went 
 off to Paris the day before yesterday, and to the 
 consternation of her household had not returned 
 yesterday. Her cook thinks she will be starved. 
 I know the contrary, as at present there is more 
 food in Paris than Versailles. Fancy sixty francs
 
 374 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 for a goose in St. Germain last week. I can't quite 
 make out about Paris, and believe the Government 
 to have been playing fox. While I was writing 
 Madame de Roullee popped in, having been very 
 much interested by her visit to Paris, where she 
 wore her daughter's clothes, and gave a dinner 
 party in her appartement, which, however, cost so 
 much that she thought it better to come off, for 
 fear of having to send to me to take her out of 
 pawn. Her grandson's dog had not been devoured, 
 indeed I believe half the dog and cat stories to be 
 fictions. I know that at the Jockey Club about 
 150 persons dined daily very fairly for ten francs, 
 and that at the worst time of the siege you could 
 get a decent breakfast for four francs. There was 
 a great deal of suffering amongst the very poor and 
 among the middle classes with small means, also 
 amongst women, children, and weakly persons. A 
 certain proportion of the population might have 
 lived on lies if they were only edible. I hear 
 nothing in favour of the Paris population, which 
 appears to be conducting itself with boastful child- 
 ishness. I have been much interested lately in 
 reading some of Stoffel's reports which were found 
 in the Tuilleries, and have been published. Instead 
 of deriding the Prussian organisation he has spoken 
 of it in even more favourable terms than I have 
 used but was not listened to. I am hoping to be 
 home in three weeks. 
 
 March 6th. We do not move from here quite so 
 soon as was expected. Of one thing you may be 
 quite sure, as soon as we quit Versailles I shall get 
 to Berlin as fast as I can. Yesterday I had a
 
 Letters from France. 375 
 
 charming trip with the Crown Prince to Chartres, 
 where there is a wonderful cathedral, and on the 
 way back we stopped for half an hour to see 
 Chateau Maintenon, one of the most picturesque 
 chateaux I have ever seen. It seemed so strange 
 to be in a railway carriage again. We very nearly 
 had an accident from a piece of wood having been 
 accidentally laid across the rails, luckily near a 
 station, where we had to slow in passing. 
 
 March 7th. The Emperor and Crown Prince 
 are just off to La Ferrieres, reviewing the Saxons 
 and Wiirtembergers on the way. They then go 
 on to Amiens and Rouen. The Staff march on 
 Friday to St. Gratien, Saturday Le Yert Gallant, 
 Sunday Meaux, where I expect we shall see the 
 Crown Prince about Monday. As soon as he 
 dismisses me I shall race home. Mr. Odo Russell 
 left yesterday to my great grief, as he was an 
 excellent companion and most valuable friend. 
 Valerien is to be given up to the French at 11 
 to-day. Alvensleben marches to Rheims, and from 
 there the Landwehr will be forwarded by rail to 
 Berlin. I shall most likely migrate for a couple 
 of nights to Madame de Roullee, as I should like 
 to give up my house in a respectable manner to 
 my old spinster.
 
 376 Days of a Soldiers Life. 
 
 EXTRACTS FROM JOURNAL, 1871-1888. 
 
 From Journal, 3rd October, 1871. Dined last night 
 with Count Euienburg, Minister of the Interior. 
 The party, as always at his house, very agreeable. 
 Lucca, her husband, Hiilsen, &c. In the middle of 
 dinner Philip Euienburg came in, having just 
 arrived from Breslau. After the bulk of the 
 party were gone I remained chatting with the 
 two Eulenburgs and Waldersee. Count Euienburg 
 with his usual humour described first the consulta- 
 tion which took place at Bismarck's on his arrival 
 from Varzin on the 12th July, 1870, in Berlin. 
 Bismarck appears to have had no inclination for 
 war. Count Euienburg dined with him, General v. 
 Roon making the third. Moltke, who had also 
 been absent from Berlin, came in while they were 
 at dinner, and it was on his urging and assurance 
 that there never was a better opportunity, that 
 the army could be mobilised in thirteen days, and 
 that he had no doubts of the result, that it was 
 agreed to take up the French challenge. It was 
 settled to at once communicate this decision to 
 the King, who it was known would avoid war if 
 he could. Bismarck jumped at Eulenburg's offer to 
 go to Ems, and he accordingly started that night, 
 reached Ems the next day and obtained from the 
 King permission to return Benedetti an unfavour- 
 able answer to the renewed request for an audience 
 for the purpose of discussing the old subject
 
 Extracts from Journal, 1871-1888. 377 
 
 (which he had that morning made), thereby 
 playing into the hands of his antagonists. Prince 
 Anton Radziwill was entrusted with the message, 
 as speaking good French, and as being fitted to 
 make the refusal with perfect civility but unmis- 
 takably. It is plain that Moltke was the only 
 one of the party who wished for war with France at 
 that juncture. His mind was probably accustomed 
 to the thought from his possessing the only reliable 
 information of the French resources, and from his 
 habit of weighing eventualities ; and it is a strong 
 proof of his influence that he so soon succeeded 
 in bringing others to his views. Count Eulenburg 
 described his waking on the morning of the 14th, 
 when he clasped his hands over his head and 
 thought, " And it really is war with France." The 
 whole conversation made the impression on me, 
 that in the first instance the war was not pre- 
 mediated on the part of the King, of Bismarck, or 
 of the Prussian G-overnment, but that the challenge 
 was readily taken up, and that it was fully deter- 
 mined at the meeting I mentioned to force France 
 into war. Bismarck even proposed to give France 
 a cause for war by taking Baden into the Northern 
 Federation, but was persuaded to let her put 
 herself in the wrong by sticking to the original 
 cause of quarrel. Benedetti's indecorous pressure 
 on the King did the rest. Practically speaking 
 Moltke was quite right. The state of tension 
 arising from the relations with France was in- 
 tolerable to the country. Trade was almost at a 
 standstill. At any rate its development was 
 hindered, and at every moment the thought arose,
 
 378 Days of a Soldiers Life. 
 
 if we do so and so we shall have war with France. 
 It was best to put a stop to this state of things. 
 In the course of my ride this afternoon I met 
 General Treskow in the Thiergarten, and had a 
 long conversation with him, in which he repeated 
 to me more in detail what he told me on the llth, 
 before dinner at the palace. He said that Alten, 
 aide-de-camp to the Emperor (sent with Blumenthal 
 to attend our Autumn Manoeuvres), had reported 
 very favourably of our troops ; that he found the 
 equipment and instruction of the men excellent; 
 that he was greatly pleased with the appearance, 
 drill, and particularly the riding of our cavalry, 
 more especially of the officers; and that our artillery 
 was in every respect superb, admirably horsed and 
 appointed, and well handled. He had also reported 
 that not only was the "general idea" of the man- 
 oeuvres distinguished by a clear appreciation of the 
 object in view, but that the commanders of the differ- 
 ent bodies of troops showed a full understanding of 
 their intent, and had shown themselves capable of 
 profiting by opportunities. Altogether I perceive, 
 both from what was said to me by the Emperor on 
 the llth, from his tone and manner, and from that 
 of his Adjutant- General, that our recent attempt 
 has made a favourable impression. Treskow told 
 me that Blumenthal had expressed himself in the 
 same sense as Alten, but he is remarkably silent 
 with the pen. I hope, however, to see him here in 
 a few days, as he has just been appointed to the 
 command of the 4th Corps at Magdeburg. I was 
 much struck with the marked kindly tone of 
 General v. Treskow's remarks, and with the ready
 
 Extracts from Journal, 1871-1888. 379 
 
 desire to do justice to our military condition, wliich 
 I had hardly expected. He told me that the 
 officers who had been to the manoeuvres at Pesth 
 had come back very differently impressed that the 
 manoeuvres were a farce, in fact only a previously 
 prepared sham fight. "We both lamented the state 
 into which, thanks to injudicious reforms, the noble 
 old Austrian army had fallen, and agreed how 
 necessary for Europe it was, that Austria should not 
 become too weak. I had heard much that was 
 interesting though painful as to the present state 
 of the army in Austria from a friend whom I met 
 at Wiesbaden. 
 
 November 3rd, 1871. I returned yesterday from 
 a three days' visit to the Duke of Brunswick at 
 Blankenburg to meet the Emperor, Crown Prince, 
 &c. The shooting was bad. I only killed one 
 boar and one roebuck. I had, however, a con- 
 versation with the Crown Prince on the question of 
 the succession to Brunswick, and the probability of 
 war at some future date between Germany and 
 Russia. The Crown Prince spoke with perfect 
 horror of such a war, as aimless and unreasonable. 
 I told him that while Sir Harry Yerney was in 
 Berlin he had been invited to drink tea with 
 Bismarck, who at once opened on this subject, 
 expressing his conviction that it was inevitable. 
 Half an hour later Sir Harry was sitting beside the 
 Princess, who adverted to the same subject. "What 
 do they mean? However, as the Crown Prince 
 remarked, " If Bismarck wills war with Russia, he 
 will bring it about somehow." The question of the 
 Brunswick succession is a serious difficulty. The
 
 380 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 Crown Prince of Hanover has, as yet, made no 
 move towards reconciliation with Germany, and 
 there is a very influential party who make no secret 
 of their intention to absorb Brunswick whenever 
 the case arrives. The Crown Prince acknowledges 
 that Prussia has no claim on Brunswick, that the 
 Crown Prince of Hanover is the rightful heir, and 
 that he would like to see the question settled. The 
 Duke of Brunswick would also like it settled, but 
 thinks it would be better let alone for the present. 
 In coarse of conversation the Crown Prince re- 
 marked, " I am accused of taking no interest in 
 public affairs, and the party in power take care that 
 I am never informed on them." We then spoke of 
 Bismarck, whose hostility to the Crown Prince and 
 Princess is increasing. The Crown Prince does not 
 even consider him a great statesman; it is his 
 character, his iron will working on weak material, 
 which had led to success ; but had he failed in '66 
 where would Prussia have been ? 
 
 December 4th. Mr. Odo Russell presented his 
 credentials to the Emperor as Ambassador of Eng- 
 land to this Court. The party, which was fetched 
 in three state carriages, consisted of the Ambassa- 
 dor, Mr. Petre (1st secretary), Mr. Plunkett (2nd), 
 Bentinck (attache), Groodenough, R.N., and myself. 
 This was my fourth appearance at one of these 
 functions Lord Napier's recall, Lord Augustus 
 Loftus's arrival, the new credentials to the North 
 German Bund, and the present one. Oubril, it is 
 said, is to be made Ambassador. The nomination 
 of the Yicomte G-ontaut Biron as French Ambassa- 
 dor is notified. He is a personal friend of Thiers,
 
 Extracts from Journal, 1871-1888. 381 
 
 one of the staunchest of Legitimists, and most honest 
 of diplomatists. Why shoot Rossel ? He was no 
 worse than Trochu and Ducrot and Vinoy ; had not 
 only committed no atrocities, but had been de- 
 nounced by the Commune ; and why he was put in 
 the same category as a savage beast like Ferre no 
 one can conceive. He was a true patriot, with 
 clean hands and not a stain on his character. 
 
 May 9th, 1872. Back from three weeks' leave in 
 England. The first thing I hear is that Bismarck 
 has again been ordered by his physician to knock 
 off work and betake himself to the country. Will 
 he die mad or of softening of the brain ? The 
 Crown Prince has been very unwell. He started, 
 after the Saxon jubilee, to join the Crown Princess 
 at Bex, but became unwell at Carlsruhe, where he- 
 has been ever since, now a matter of three weeks. 
 The Crown Princess joined him on the 26th Novem- 
 ber, and I hear that they will move to Wiesbaden 
 as soon as he is a little better. It appears to have 
 been a sharp attack of internal inflamation, brought 
 on by catching cold, very likely the same as he 
 suffered from in August, 1870, while we were at 
 Revigny aux Yaches. 
 
 December I2th, 1872. We have been on the 
 threshold of a great misfortune. The Crown 
 Prince has been seriously ill. At one time there was 
 real danger, which, thank Grod, has now passed. I 
 dined at the palace on the 10th, when the Empress 
 spoke for some time to me of the great anxiety his 
 illness had caused her. It is terrible to think the 
 hindrance to the consolidation of Germany which 
 would ensue from the death of the Crown Prince,
 
 382 Days of a Soldier's Life, 
 
 and the probable long minority of his son. The 
 dictatorship of Bismarck is too dangerous a contin- 
 gency to think of with indifference. The Emperor 
 is looking very well and is prudent, but he is 
 seventy-five years of age. 
 
 February, 1873. Bismarck told Lord Odo Russell 
 at the Shrove Tuesday ball, that he was weary and 
 broken down, and that he could perceive that he 
 had lost his influence. He said that for the good 
 of his reputation he ought to have died when peace 
 with France was concluded, like Cavour, and that 
 he could not bear the irritation caused by his being 
 the focus of observation for European politicians. 
 He looked bloated and ill. He also told him that 
 the German merchants want a war with China ; 
 that they are so restricted in their commerce. The 
 Chinese are becoming so "iibermuthig" (bump- 
 tious) that they can see no other solution of the 
 difficulty. There is a most amusing story told of a 
 Mrs. F., wife of the American Secretary, and her 
 devoted admirer, the Turkish Secretary. They are 
 inseparable, but at a party at Count Launay's a 
 few evenings ago Mrs. F. had wandered away with 
 one of the French Secretaries to a room at the end 
 of the suite, where they had seated themselves, she 
 listening to the gentleman's blather with evident 
 satisfaction, when some hot wax dropped on her 
 shoulder. She set up a loud cry, the door opened, 
 and the Turk putting in his head exclaimed, in a 
 very solemn voice, " Madame, quand on fait des 
 choses comme ca on ne crie pas," shut the door, 
 and disappeared. Fortunately a few days later the 
 engagement of the Frenchman to a young lady at
 
 Extracts from Jfournal) 1871-1888. 383 
 
 Berlin was announced, and the Turk returned to 
 his allegiance. 
 
 Nay 25th, 1876. I dined yesterday at the Neues 
 Palais, our Queen's birthday. Only the Emperor, 
 in addition to the Embassy and the household. I 
 had the good luck to find myself next to Princess 
 Charlotte, now a girl of sixteen. We have always 
 been good friends, and I was delighted at the oppor- 
 tunity of further improving the acquaintance. I 
 always liked her as a child, and like her still more 
 in the present transition state. I hope she will 
 grow into a charming woman. "We bad just re- 
 turned from a two months' visit to England, and 
 had found her and her suite at Liege, on our return 
 journey, as they crossed via Ostend, and we came 
 by Calais. Princess Charlotte is so fond of England 
 that I had to moderate her transports at dinner for 
 fear the Emperor, who was on the other side of her, 
 should overhear them. Princess Charlotte was at 
 Buckingham Palace when the Prince of Wales 
 arrived from India. She described the scene as 
 most affecting, everybody in tears, the cheers out- 
 side quite frightening a roar of welcome. The 
 Queen said she remembered nothing like it. 
 
 March 22nd, 1877. The dear old Emperor cele- 
 brated his eighty-first birthday to-day in the best 
 health and spirits. We congratulated at 11. The 
 old Field-Marshal Wrangel read the address of the 
 Generals, I should think for the last time, as he was 
 very shaky. The Emperor spoke feelingly, with tears 
 in his eyes, in reply, but soon cheered up and went 
 round shaking hands with most, and with a kind 
 word for all. In the afternoon the Princes of
 
 384 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 Germany presented him with a picture, by Werner, 
 of the Proclamation of the Empire, on the 18th 
 January, 1871, at Versailles, and which we found 
 in the Eitter Saal of the Schloss at the party in the 
 evening. 
 
 April 2nd, 1877. I have been busy paying my 
 farewell visits, and to-day had my audience to take 
 leave of the Emperor, who has been kept in igno- 
 rance of my resignation till quite recently. He 
 spoke to me most warmly and affectionately, but 
 said that as a soldier I was quite right to look for 
 higher employment than that of military attache 
 to an embassy. He also thanked me heartily for 
 all I had done. On my telling the Emperor that 
 I proposed starting on Tuesday, he said, " Then 
 you can't eat 'noch eine suppe' with us, the Empress 
 would so much like to see you again," to which I, 
 of course, at once acceded, and I am to dine with 
 him to-morrow. I then drove to the Crown Prince, 
 who was so hearty and affectionate, and gave me 
 his portrait in the uniform of the 8th Dragoons, 
 painted on thick glass. I finished my round by 
 the Princes Carl, F. Carl, George, Alexander, and 
 Prince August of Wurtemberg. 
 
 April 3rd, 1877. Dinner at the palace. Grand 
 Duke and Duchess of Baden, Duke and Duchess of 
 Saxe-Altenburg, Prince Pless, Molke, &c. After 
 dinner, a farewell from the Empress and again from 
 the Emperor, not to speak of most kind and hearty 
 words from the Grand Duchess of Baden, who told 
 me that if I only knew how much I had been the 
 subject of their conversation during the past two 
 days I should be gratified. The Empress kept me
 
 Extracts from Journal, 1871-1888. 385 
 
 after dinner to say good-bye. She spoke most 
 warmly and affectionately at my having been twice 
 at her son's side in times of danger and difficulty, 
 and thanked me warmly for having best served my 
 Queen, by doing nothing but what was good and 
 kindly during my long residence in Berlin. My 
 parting afterwards with the Emperor was that of 
 warm attached friends. He gave me permission to 
 call myself his " comrade." After a delightful 
 tour in Italy and Switzerland and Hartzburg we 
 returned to England on the 2nd of November. To 
 my great surprise I was within a very short time 
 offered the appointment of Director-General of 
 Military Education, which I accepted with grati- 
 tude, it being perhaps the only appointment avail- 
 able for a Lieutenant- General so low on the list as 
 I was.* 
 
 1888. 
 
 " It would indeed require volumes to describe all 
 that has been done by, and for, Germany since the 
 late Emperor grasped the reigns of power. He has, 
 like other sovereigns, been the target of assassins, 
 his life having been assailed four or five times ; but 
 each dastardly attempt only served to call forth 
 that genuine and affectionate loyalty, which his 
 public services, and his frank, considerate, and 
 manly character, inspired. Last year, on the 22nd 
 of March, he celebrated his ninetieth birthday, or 
 
 * Soon after his return to England, Lieut.-General Walker 
 was appointed Director General of Military Education, which 
 appointment he held seven years ; in 1881 he was made K.C.B., 
 and Colonel of the Bays, and in 1884 became General. 
 
 2 o
 
 386 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 it may be said that the nation celebrated an event 
 of which every German was proud. He has not 
 lived to see another. He deserves to rank abreast 
 with the foremost men of his house the Great 
 Elector and Frederick II. But he has an especial 
 claim of his own, in that he was the kindest and 
 most considerate of men. He has set an example 
 of conscientious labour to men of every rank, and 
 has shown throughout his life, how stern discipline 
 and the exaction of strict duties may be harmonised 
 with courtesy, gentleness, and thought for others, 
 even when on trial of their qualities they fail. 
 Every inch a real king, he was also a great gentle- 
 man, and in both characters he will live in the 
 pages of history, as when alive he reigned in the 
 hearts of men." 
 
 This was the closing paragraph of an article in 
 the Globe, on the death of the Emperor. A juster 
 estimate of the noble character of the Emperor 
 could not be penned. 
 
 20th March, 1888. Returned at 6 o'clock from 
 Berlin, where I have been in attendance on the 
 Prince of Wales, for the funeral of the Emperor, who 
 died early on the morning of the 9th of March. On 
 Saturday I received a letter from Probyn inform- 
 ing me that the Prince, in view of my long service 
 as military attache to the Embassy in Berlin, had 
 proposed that I should accompany him to the 
 funeral if my health would permit me to undertake 
 the journey. I naturally did not delay an hour in 
 signifying my grateful acknowledgement of this 
 gracious desire on the part of H. R. H. We started 
 accordingly by the 8 o'clock train from Charing
 
 Extracts from Journal, 1871-1888. 387 
 
 Cross on the evening of the 13th, and duly reached 
 Berlin at 10 P.M. on the 14th, and after the usual 
 process of reception at the station drove to the 
 Embassy, where the party were put up the Prince 
 of Wales, Prince Edward, Major-General Ellis, 
 Colonel Talbot, 1st Life Guards, and myself, in 
 attendance on the Prince, Captain Greville on 
 Prince Edward, and Colonel Egerton, as represent- 
 ing Prince Arthur. The next morning we pro- 
 ceeded in full uniform to the cathedral, to the lying- 
 in-state of the late Emperor, who lay in the middle 
 of the choir, looking very old and shrivelled a sad 
 ceremony, and one which might well have been dis- 
 pensed with. After depositing the wreaths we left 
 the cathedral. The Prince went on a round of 
 visits, telling us to meet him at half-past 12, in 
 order that all might drive out together to Charlot- 
 tenburg. "We, Ellis, Talbot, and I, did the same, 
 but missed him by five minutes, and therefore fol- 
 lowed on to Charlottenburg. Count Seckendorff 
 soon came to us, and asked us to come in and share 
 the luncheon of the suite. Luncheon was hardly 
 over when we were called on to go to the Empress, 
 whom I was glad to find looking better than I had 
 expected, though sad and careworn. We soon 
 heard that we were also to be received by the 
 Emperor, and we formed in a half-circle to receive 
 him, when I found myself opposite the door from 
 which he would enter. The door opened, and the 
 Emperor entered ; as his eye fell on me, his face 
 brightened with welcome, both hands went up in 
 the gesture I know so well, and he came across to 
 me with outstretched hand. I tried to kiss his
 
 388 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 hand, but lie would not let me, held my hand fast, 
 and gave me a hearty kiss on the cheek. He was 
 not allowed to speak, but conversed by means of a 
 tablet on which he wrote his questions. I was 
 astonished, as were my companions, at his vigorous 
 appearance. He is certainly paler, and there are 
 streaks of grey in his beard, but not more than one 
 would expect from a man of fifty-six, who had gone 
 through so much as has the Emperor. We did not 
 see him again, nor was this to be expected. Shall 
 I ever see him again, this good, noble, lovable, 
 man ? We took our leave, and as we had had our 
 luncheon, went back to our dreary task of writing 
 our names and leaving cards. By dividing our 
 forces we managed all, or nearly all, but I and 
 Talbot, who drove together, did not get back to 
 the Embassy till nearly 7. A quiet, plain clothes 
 dinner at the Embassy, and glad to get to bed 
 between 11 and 12, dog tired. The next day 
 was the funeral. We drove to the Dom Kirche, 
 soon after 11, and with Ellis and Talbot I found 
 a good place in the gallery. The service commenced 
 at 12, and lasted little over half an hour, the 
 sermon being brief and to the point. Being in the 
 procession, I saw nothing of it. We marched 
 through the Unter den Linden to the Sieges Allee, 
 where those who were to accompany the coffin to 
 Charlottenburg entered their carriages, and we 
 turned and walked back to the Embassy, where we 
 arrived before 3 o'clock. I was so tired that I 
 did not go out again. We dined that evening at 
 the Marshal's Tafel, where I was happily placed 
 between Eulenburg and Count Bismarck Bohlen,
 
 Extracts from Journal, 1871-1888. 389 
 
 who took charge of me. After dinner a reception 
 in the Hitter Saal and adjoining rooms. I found 
 time for a chat with some of the ladies and many 
 friends of earlier days. The Empress Frederick 
 sent for me, and I was most kindly received, as I 
 had previously been by the Crown Prince William. 
 I did not sit up very long after we got back to the 
 Embassy, as the kind Prince had told me to take 
 every care of myself and to go to bed when I 
 pleased, so I did not join the smokers, but went off 
 to a sound sleep in my very comfortable room. 
 Saturday was comparatively a day of rest. I in- 
 dulged in plain clothes, after breakfast walked to 
 the palace, left cards on the Empress Frederick's 
 ladies, afterwards on the ladies of the Dowager 
 Empress, then to call on the Kadziwills, where I 
 met Prince Bliicher, who told me that he drank tea 
 with the old Emperor three weeks before his death, 
 that the old man was full of fun, and twice returned 
 to the party after he had pretended to go to bed, 
 and was at last regularly sent to bed by Count 
 Goltz, his adjutant-general, who said it was his 
 duty to send him to bed in proper time. Up to 
 now the weather had been good cold, dry but 
 changed in the night, when there was snow. On 
 Sunday I went with the Prince to the English 
 church, built since I left Berlin. H.R.H. brought 
 me back to the Embassy, and then proceeded to 
 Charlottenburg. He told me that he was to be 
 received by the Dowager Empress at 4, and 
 desired me to go to her secretary, Knasebeck, and 
 ascertain whether the Empress would wish to see 
 me. I therefore dressed in uniform, and a little
 
 39 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 before 4 betook myself to the palace to wait 
 orders. I was received soon after the Prince had 
 gone. The Empress, I am sure, said many kind 
 things, but almost the only words I caught were 
 " appreciation " and something about the Emperor 
 " before he fell asleep," her voice was so thin and 
 low. The room was very dark, there was a screen 
 behind the Empress's couch ; but I did not think 
 her more fragile-looking than was to be expected. 
 I was most warmly greeted by the dear Grand 
 Duchess of Baden, always more than kind and 
 gracious, and now almost doubly so. She looked 
 very sad and broken first her son, then her father, 
 to whom she was so devoted, and the anxiety about 
 her brother. The poor Grand Duke broke down 
 when he spoke of their recent loss. I got back to 
 the Embassy in time for a rest before dinner of 
 thirty covers at 7 p.m. preparatory to our start 
 homewards. During the assemblage at the railway 
 station Prince Henry came to me, and after kind 
 expressions said, " There is something I want 
 to say to you. I want you to know that the 
 prolongation of my father's life is due to the 
 care and attention which he has received from 
 my mother." He repeated it a second time with 
 emphasis. I asked if I might repeat this in 
 England, and received not only most ready per- 
 mission to do so, but also to quote the Prince as my 
 authority. Our return journey was made in bitter 
 cold and a violent snowstorm, which had commenced 
 at Berlin and continued till we reached London. 
 "We breakfasted at Cologne, where we were joined 
 by the King of the Belgians and his brother, with
 
 Extracts from Journal, 1871-1888. 391 
 
 whom we lunched at the Brussels station. As we 
 were two hours late at Cologne we did not reach 
 Calais so as to catch the evening tide, and there had 
 five hours' detention, not being able to leave till 
 2 a.m., finally reaching London soon after 5 o'clock. 
 We were an hour and twenty minutes crossing, and 
 the papers said that it was very rough, but I rolled 
 myself in my cloak, went into the ladies cabin, and 
 slept like a marmot. 
 
 A most painful but interesting journey, for the 
 opportunity of participating in which I have to 
 thank the considerate kindness of the Prince of 
 Wales, to whom also I am deeply indebted for 
 much gracious consideration during the journey.
 
 392 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 18th June, 12.30^>.m. The minute guns are now 
 firing at the Park and Tower for my dear Emperor, 
 who passed quietly away at twelve minutes past 
 11 (Berlin time), on Friday the 15th, at the 
 Neuen Palais, Potsdam. There he was born on the 
 18th October, 1831, on the anniversary of the 
 battle of Leipzig, and is to be buried this morning 
 in the Friedens Kirche at Potsdam on the anni- 
 versary of the battle of Waterloo. A great man, 
 greatest perhaps in the fortitude with which he has 
 borne lingering disease, and in the example he has left 
 to all who were near to him. His words to his son 
 William are now historical : " Lerne zu leiden ohne 
 zu Klagen" ("Learn to suffer without complain- 
 ing"). There never was a man who more truly was 
 described in the words of Horace : " Integer vitse 
 scelerisque purus " ("A man of upright life, un- 
 sullied by wrongdoing "). He was the most lovable 
 man I ever knew. And I shall never see his dear 
 face again, in this world at any rate ; and as to the 
 next, who knows in what form we shall meet ?
 
 INDEX. 
 
 A. 
 
 " Agamemnon " in action, 126, 
 
 127 
 Ainslie, Col., 72, 142; mistaken 
 
 opinion of the French, 369 
 Airey, Gen., 93, 137, 143 
 Alma, Eiver, 107 ; battle of, 
 
 108-111 
 
 Allied forces before Sevastopol, 
 Oct. 7th, 1854, 120; number 
 of the, at Inkerman, 141 
 Alten, Col., on the English 
 
 troops, 1871, 378 
 Alsace, Germans in, 295 
 Alvensleben, Gen. v., sent to 
 Hanover, 282; in Alsace, 
 296 ; before Metz, 311, 312 
 Alvensleben, George, 301, 303, 
 306, 312 ; loses his brother, 
 330 ; at Versailles, 345, 355 ; 
 with the Landwehr Reg., 347, 
 351 ; sent to Massy, 357 ; 
 at Malmaison. 361 ; before 
 Paris, 365, 370 ; sent to 
 Rheims, 375 
 Amiens taken by the Prussians, 
 
 355 
 Anderson, Mr., his death in 
 
 Pekin, 213 
 "Andes," S.S., 5, 8 
 Anecdotes of the war, 1866, 
 255 
 
 An Ting Gate, capture of the, 
 
 214 
 Ants in the Crimea, 52, 65, 68, 
 
 75 
 
 April, 1854, 1-4 
 Aristarchi Bey, 262, 264 
 Army, British, discontent at 
 Varna, of the, 73, 76; its loss 
 of morale through inactivity, 
 75, 79, 83 
 Artillery reach the Crimea, 39 ; 
 
 before Sevastopol, 120, 121 
 Artot, 264 
 
 Ashburnham, Gen., 274 
 Asia Minor, view from Kooleli 
 
 over, 37 
 
 August, 1854, in the Crimea, 
 74-91; 1860, in China, 165- 
 183; 1870, Franco-Prussian 
 war, 286-314 
 
 Augusta, Empress, 381, 382; 
 her kindness to Col. Walker, 
 384, 385 ; see Prussia, Queen 
 of 
 
 Austin, Mr., 346 
 Austria, mis-government of, 
 238; her position in 1870, 
 281 ; her army deteriorates, 
 1871, 379 
 Austrian treaty with Turkey, 
 
 reported, 1854, 45, 46 
 Austrian troops cross the 
 
 2 D
 
 394 
 
 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 frontier, 1866, 224 ; defeated 
 before Nachod, 225-227 ; 
 defeated at Eypel, 228; 
 their losses at Chlum, 335 
 
 B. 
 
 Baden, Grand Duchess of, 384, 
 
 390 
 
 Baden, Grand Duke of, 367 
 Baidar, skirmishing at 121 
 Baker, Col., 359 
 Balaclava, Sept. 28th, 1854, 
 112; position of, 115, 116; 
 cavalry charge at, 130-132, 
 136, 137; British losses at, 
 133, 134 ; orders sent to Lord 
 Lucan at, 135 ; mud at, 152 
 Baltchik Bay, troops embark 
 
 for, 90, 95 ; ships in, 95 
 Bar-le-Duc, march through, 
 
 311 
 
 Barnard, Mr., 49 
 Bashi Bazouks, 23, 85 
 Batchi Serai, 114 
 Battlefield 1828, 69 
 Bavarian troops 1870,285,290; 
 at Ligny, 309; at Sedan, 316, 
 318 
 
 Bazaar, in Pera, 14; in Stam- 
 boul, 30-32; Sir C. Camp- 
 bell's, 65 
 
 Bazaine, Marshal, 288 
 Beaumont, action at, 324 
 Belbec River, 112, 113 
 Bell, a Chinese, 219 
 " Bellerophon," H.M.S, 70, 71; 
 in action, 126 ; damaged 17th 
 Oct., 1854, 146 
 Benedek, General, 228 ; defeated 
 at Chlum, 231 ; neglects his 
 
 opportunity at Triibau, 241 ; 
 in July, 1866, 247, 249 
 Benedetti and the secret treaty 
 1870,280,319,376; his indis- 
 cretion forces the war, 377 
 Bernhardt, 277 
 Bernstoff, 343, 349 
 Berlin, war news from, July, 
 
 1870, 282 
 Biddulph, Sir T., 317, 336, 339 
 Bingham, Lord, 30 
 Birds in the Black Sea, 100 
 Biron, Yicomte Gontaut,380, 381 
 Biscay, Bay of, ship burnt in 
 
 the, 56 
 
 Bismarck, Prince, his rudeness 
 to the Crown Prince of Prussia, 
 231, 380; his views of Moltke, 
 263 ; his ill health, 265, 268, 
 281, 362, 381 ; on liberal re- 
 forms, 266, 267 ; presented to 
 the Princess of Wales, 269 
 Bismarck, responsible for the 
 war of 1870, 277, 278 ; on the 
 secret treaty, 280 ; his son 
 wounded before Metz, 310 ; 
 arranges terms with J. Favre, 
 331, 370 ; at Versailles, 1871, 
 367 ; disinclined for the war, 
 1870, 373, 376, 377 ; on war 
 between Germany and Russia, 
 379; his dictatorship, 382; 
 his loss of influence 1873, 382 
 Bitche, 299 
 Black River, 115, 117, 118, 119, 
 
 136 
 Black Sea, 97 ; a frigate lost in 
 
 the, 23 
 Blake, 117 
 Blamont, 300 
 Bliicher, Prince, 389
 
 Index. 
 
 395 
 
 Blunientlial, General von, 223, 
 224, 237 ; his firmness, 246 ; 
 with the Crown Prince 1870, 
 279 ; his success, 311 ; at 
 Versailles, 329, 330, 354, 371 ; 
 at autumn manoeuvres, 1871, 
 378 
 
 Bohemia compared with Mora- 
 via, 247 
 
 Bordieu, de, death of, 80 
 Bosphorus, the, 9, 10, 11 
 Bothmer, Count, 290 
 Bourbakie, defeated, Jan., 1871, 
 
 365, 366 
 Boursault, 320, 324 ; chateau of, 
 
 321, 322 
 
 Brabazon, Lord, 22], 269 
 Braunau, 226, 227 
 Bridge of boats, 16 ; a Chinese, 
 
 209 
 
 British officer drowned, 21 ; 
 sailors at Kooleli, fray of, 
 43, 44 ; troops at Gallipoli, 
 8 ; at Scutari, 17, 20, 21 ; 
 crippled for want of trans- 
 port, 47 ; hopes of moving to 
 the front, 69, 70, 71, 74 ; 
 sickness amongst the, 83, 84, 
 86, 154; in the Black Sea, 
 106 ; lost at Inkerman, 139, 
 141 ; their sufferings, Nov., 
 1854, 142-144; lost in China, 
 22 Aug., 1860, 177 ; start for 
 Pekin, 187, 188 ; at Chin 
 Liang Chung, 179 
 Brown, Sir George, 8, 49, 104, 
 122 ; killed at Inkerman, 139 
 Browne, General, 20, 29 
 Briinn, German entry into, 250, 
 257 ; the Mayor of, 259 ; 
 health of the troops at, 260 
 
 Brunswick, Duchy of, succession 
 question of the, 379, 380 
 
 Brunswick Duke of, a shooting 
 party, 379, 380 
 
 Buffaloes, 56 
 
 Buyukdere, 34, 35 
 
 Buzanval, sortie from Paris, 344, 
 373 
 
 C. 
 
 Cadiz, 2 
 
 Caffre corn, 179 
 
 Cahien, M., false statements by, 
 
 309 
 Caique, a Turkish, 10, 14 ; a 
 
 leaking, 35 
 
 Cambridge, Duke of, 30 
 Camels in the Crimea, 106 
 Camilliare, Midshipman, 127 
 Campbell, Mr., 305 
 Campbell, Sir Colin, his bazaar 
 
 in the Crimea, 65 
 Canrobcrt, 149 
 Cap, The Bay of, 161 
 Cape Blanco, 3 
 Finisterre 2 
 St. Vincent, 2 
 Captives, European, at Pekin, 
 
 199, 209, sufferings of, 213; 
 
 funeral of the, 216, 217 
 Cardigan, Lord, in the Crimea, 
 
 24. 25, 28, 66, 98 ; at Devna, 
 
 48 ; advances towards the 
 
 Danube, 51; at Balaclava, 
 
 136-138 
 
 Carmeny, 223, 224 
 Cathcart, Sir G., 96 
 Cartwright, Mr., imprudence of, 
 
 287 
 Castles, ruined Genoese, 152
 
 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 Cats in the Crimea, 34; at 
 Versailles, 350 
 
 Cavalry, 29 ; reach the Crimea, 
 62 ; without water, 113 ; at 
 Balaclava, 131, 133, 135-137, 
 their losses at Balaclava, 133, 
 134, 137 ; at Inkerman, 140 ; 
 die of cold, 145 
 
 Cerigo, 7 
 
 Centipedes, 75, 78 
 
 Champagne at Boursault, 321, 
 324 
 
 Chan Kia "Whan, a trap laid 
 at, for the English, 194-197, 
 210 
 
 Chanzy defeated, 366 
 
 Charles, King of Prussia, 368 
 
 Charlotte, Princess of Prussia, 
 383 
 
 Charteris, Captain, 2 ; at Bala- 
 clava, 131, 132 
 
 Chartres, 375 
 
 Chasseurs d'Afrique, 60. 63, 
 64, 71, 72; at Balaclava, 
 136 ; at Inkerman, 140 
 
 China, Emperor of, reported 
 removal from Pekin, 294 
 
 Chinese cavalry, 166 ; losses 
 at Sinho, 179; people, 182- 
 384; duplicity, 194-197, 204, 
 207, 210 ; defeated at Chan 
 Kia Whan, 198; number of 
 the army, 200; breakfast, 
 205; dinner, 206; graves, 
 210 
 
 Chin Liang Chung, 177-179 
 
 Chlum, battle of, 231, 233 
 
 Cholera in Bohemia, 258 
 
 Christmas Day, 1870, 363 
 
 Cintra, 2 
 
 Circassians, 26 
 
 Claremont, Col., in Paris, 1870, 
 
 333 ; promoted, 361 ; his cot- 
 tage sacked, 361 
 Cleveland at Inkerman, 140, 
 
 141 
 
 Clutterback at Balaclava, 131 
 Coburg, Duke of, in Alsace, 296 
 Coffee-making in Turkey, 31 
 Collinson, Sam, and his army, 
 
 203, 220 
 
 Cologne, July, 1870, 272, 273 
 "Colombo," H.M.S., on board 
 
 the, 123, 124; sent to Batoum, 
 
 127 
 Commissariat, inefficient, 1854, 
 
 39, 63, 66, 86, 104, 106 
 Conolly, Captain, 33, 133 
 Constantinople, 9, 17 ; buildings 
 
 of, 11 ; beauty of, 26 
 Consultation of French and 
 
 English officers, July, 1854, 
 
 68 
 
 Cossacks, 29, 76, 102, 118 
 Coulomniers, 326 
 Crimea, the climate of, 54, 121 ; 
 
 allied troops in, 54, 152 ; 
 
 under weigh for the, 95 ; 1854, 
 
 a trying campaign, 130 
 Cuirassiers, the French, in the 
 
 Crimea, 71 ; German, in 
 
 Bohemia, 248 
 
 D. 
 
 Dardanelles, 8 
 
 Davies of the "Sanspareil," 147 
 December, 1854, 153, 154 
 December, 1870, at Versailles, 
 
 357; bitterly cold at Paris, 
 , 362; the llth and 12th of, 
 
 outside Paris, 360 
 Delier, M., 327
 
 Index. 
 
 397 
 
 De Norman, M., 214 
 
 Devna, 28; cavalry camp at, 
 
 48-49 ; climate, 51 ; lakes of, 
 
 49 ; review at, 61 ; ride to, 
 
 60 
 
 Dilke, Sir W., 305 
 Dobruscha, Russians sick at, 
 
 44 
 
 Dogs in China, 181 
 Doable Bay, 124 
 Dragoon Guards at Balaclava, 
 
 134, 135, 137; Royal, 66; 
 
 arrival in Crimea, 29, 37 ; 
 
 at Devna, 48-49 ; glanders 
 
 amongst the horses of, 66, 
 
 67 
 
 Dragoons, 6th French, 71-72 
 Ducrot, General, 381 ; voted for 
 
 early surrender of Paris, 372 
 Dundas, Admiral, inactivity of, 
 
 74 
 
 Dupuis, Colonel, 77 
 Duvankoi, village of, 112 
 
 E. 
 
 Eckersdorf, 225; 1888, 385, 
 
 392 
 
 Eis-grnb, 252, 256 
 Elgin, Lord, 157, 159, 178 ; 
 
 deceived by the Chinese, 199, 
 
 at Pekin, 219, 221; signs 
 
 treaty, 221 
 
 Embassy, French ball at, 12, 13 
 England, 1870, strong German 
 
 feeling against, 286, 292 
 English in Paris destitute, 349 ; 
 
 1,000 sent by English 
 
 Government for, 349 
 Englishmen at Versailles during 
 
 siege of Paris, 331, 332 
 
 Enniskillens, head - quarters 
 
 burnt in the Bay of Biscay, 
 
 56 ; at Balaclava, 134, 135 
 Epitome of Colonel Walker's 
 
 services, 1860-1865, 222; 
 
 services and promotion after 
 
 1866, 262 
 
 Erckert, Major, 233, 240, 259 
 Esterre, M. d', 213 
 Eulenburg, Count, 285, 350; 
 
 dinner at, 376 ; visit to Ems 
 
 to force a war, 1870, 376- 
 
 377 ; Philip, 376 
 Eupatoria, 123. 124, 125; shore 
 
 of, 101 ; troops landed at, 102 
 Evans, General, 123 ; division, 
 
 17 ; Sir de Lacy, 133 
 Eyoub, suburb of, 26 
 Eypel, battle of, 227 ; Austrian 
 
 defeat at, 228 
 Eyre, General, 338, 343 
 
 F. 
 
 F., Mrs., and her Turkish ad- 
 mirer, 382 
 
 Fabre reaches Petersback, 300 
 
 Faidherbe, beaten, 366 
 
 Falkenstein commands in North 
 Germany, 1874, 279 
 
 Fane's horse, 182, 212 
 
 Fauna near Varna, 55, 56 
 
 Favre, Jules, arranging matters 
 with Bismarck, 331 ; at 
 Versailles, 370, 371 
 
 February, 1871, 372-374 
 
 Fellowes, Captain, 105, 106 
 
 Ferre, 381 
 
 Fez, 19 
 
 Fielding, 359, 360 
 
 Fingaans, coffee set, 33
 
 398 
 
 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 Finkinstein, Colonel, 304 
 
 Fintz, an Alsatian farmer, 395 
 
 Fleets, French, in the Black Sea, 
 97 ; combined, in the Black 
 Sea, 98, 99, 100 
 
 Flowers in Turkey, 33 
 
 Fogs, 152 
 
 Food, absence of, in the Crimea, 
 115 ; absence of vegetable, 
 117 ; price of, in Paris, Jan., 
 1871, 374 
 
 Foraging for barley, 86, 87 
 
 Foreign Office, delivery of 
 messages from the, 271, 272 
 
 Forts, Crimean, Constantine, 
 120; attacked, 126, 127; 
 Nicholas, 120; Paris, Avron 
 silenced, 364; Issy, 332; 
 Mount Yalerien, 332 
 
 Frankenstein, 223 
 
 Frankfort, sympathy with 
 Prussia, 1870, 274 
 
 Frazer, Captain, 347 
 
 Frederic, Emperor; see Prussia, 
 Crown Prince of 
 
 Frederic, Empress, Crown 
 Princess of Prussia, a son 
 born, 265 ; Bismarck's 
 hostility to the, 380 ; joins 
 the Crown Prince at Carls- 
 ruhe, 381 ; after her acces- 
 sion, 387, 389 
 
 Frederic Charles, Prince, meets 
 the Crown Prince in Bavaria, 
 231, 289, 293 ; commands the 
 Northern Army 1870, 276, 
 279 ; wins a great victory on 
 the Loire 1870, 354 
 
 French army, the, 1854, at 
 Gallipoli, 8 ; reviews of the, 
 51, 60, 71 ; superiority of its 
 
 tents, 52 ; ingenuity of the 
 men, 57, 64, 65 ; its bread, 66, 
 148 : encamped near Varna, 
 61 ; cavalry in the, 63 ; sick- 
 ness in, 76, 83, 84 ; ex- 
 plosions in the camp near 
 Sevastopol, 127, 129; its 
 losses at Inkerman, 139 
 
 French army in China, 1860, 
 behaves badly to the natives, 
 106 
 
 French army, the, in 1870, 
 crosses the German frontier, 
 288, 289 ; its mistaken tactics, 
 290; its losses at Weisseii- 
 burg, 290, 291; at Mors- 
 broun, 293, 294; at Wiirth, 
 293, 297, 300, 316; neglects 
 to cut telegraphs and rail- 
 ways, 295 ; gallantry of, 297 ; 
 its losses at Gorze, 304 ; its 
 position before Metz, Aug., 
 306 ; in Metz, 310 ; brutality 
 of, 310 ; advances towards 
 Rheims, 310 ; surprised at 
 Sedan, 315, 318, 321; its brag 
 in July, 1870 319; at Meu- 
 don, 337 ; Strasburg, 336 ; 
 supplied with arms from Eng- 
 land, 344 ; at Malmaison, 
 344 ; before Paris, 357, 369 ; 
 criticism on the charge at 
 Balaclava, 138 ; families 
 reduced by the war, 363 ; 
 officer murdered by the 
 Chinese, 197; offer to 
 Prussia in a secret treaty, 
 280; prisoners in Pekin, 207; 
 supplied with arms from 
 England, 344; untruth fulness 
 of the, 324
 
 Index. 
 
 399 
 
 Freyburg, 286 
 
 Frogs, 64, 68 
 
 Frossard, 293 ; defeated at 
 
 Saarbriicken, 296, 305 
 Fruit trees near Scutari, 36 ; 
 
 in China, 182 
 
 G. 
 
 Gablenz defeated at Eypel, 
 228-230 ; sent with proposals 
 from. Benedek to the German 
 camp, 235, 241 
 
 Galata, 14, 15 
 
 Gallifet, Marquis de, at Sedan, 
 316 
 
 Gallipoli, 8 
 
 Gambetta, 372 
 
 Garches, 345 
 
 German losses near Meudon, 
 30th Sept., 1870, 336; in 
 sortie before Paris, 357 
 
 Germany united in 1870, 284 
 
 Germersheim, 274 
 
 Gibraltar, 2, 3 
 
 Giffard, Captain, of H.M.S. 
 " Tiger," 23, 44 
 
 Globe, obituary article on the 
 Emperor William I., 386 
 
 " God save the Queen " at Ver- 
 sailles, Jan., 1871, 330 
 
 Golden Horn, 11, 25, 26 ; illu- 
 minated, 42 
 
 Goleto, Islands of, 3 
 
 Goltz, Count, 389 
 
 Gordon, Colonel, 67, 72; 
 wounded, 131 
 
 Gordon, Dr., 373 
 
 Gortshakoff at Inkerman, 140 ; 
 insolence to Germany 1870, 
 355 
 
 Gorze, battle of, 303, 304 
 
 Gower, Lord B., 302 
 
 Grant, Captain, 80 
 
 Grant, Sir Hope, in China, 178, 
 195, 196 
 
 Granville, Lord, engaged in a 
 paper war on the Arms Law, 
 343 ; orders Colonel Walker 
 to write to him, 350 ; and 
 Mr. Worth's case, 352, 353, 
 356 
 
 Greek Islands, 7, 8 
 
 Greys at Balaclava, 133, 134, 
 135, 137 
 
 Gross Sellowitz, 251 
 
 Guards, 17; at Inkerman, 139, 
 141 
 
 Giurgevo, 66 
 
 Gustedt, Herr von, 346 
 
 H. 
 
 Hai Kwang, temple of, 180, 181 
 Hanover, Crown Prince of, 380 
 Harrack, Count, 270, 285, 327 
 Havilland, de, 354 
 Henry, Prince of, Prussia, 390 
 Herbert, Mr. Auberon, 305 
 Himalaya, 39, 97, 98 
 Hohenzollern, Prince of, 236, 
 
 237 
 Hohenzollern, Prince Leopold 
 
 of, 277 ; his refusal of the 
 
 Spanish Crown, 283 
 Hope, Admiral, 158 
 Horonovics, 231 
 Horses on the way to the 
 
 Crimea, 1-4, 36 ; Arab, 16, 
 
 69, 70; English, 55, 62; 
 
 Syrian, 56-58 ; embarkation 
 
 in the Crimea, 94
 
 4oo 
 
 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 Hoseewoo, 190 
 
 Hozier, Colonel, sent to Colonel 
 Walker, 338, 359; at Ver- 
 sailles, 342, 343, 346, 347; 
 useless to Walker, 348 
 
 Hussars, 8th, in the Crimea, 
 20, 22, 24 ; sail for Varna, 
 29 ; at Devna, 48 ; llth, 
 land in the Crimea, 43, badly 
 mounted, 66 ; at Devna, 48 ; 
 at Balaclava, 131 
 
 Hydra. Islands of, 7 
 
 I. 
 
 Idol, Chinese, 190 
 Illustrated, illustrated plans of 
 
 Alma in the, 149 ; sketches 
 
 sent by Mr. Landells to the, 
 
 326, 327 
 Indemnity paid by China in 
 
 1860, 188 
 Indian pilgrims in Tchenquel- 
 
 quai, 45 
 
 Infantrie de la Marine, 60 
 Inglefield, Captain, 331 
 Inkerman, 113 ; battle of, Nov. 
 
 6th, 139, 140-141 ; British 
 
 losses at, 139 ; Russian losses 
 
 at, 140, 141 ; number of the 
 
 allied forces at, 141 
 Insects in the Crimea, 64, 65, 
 
 66, 68, 106, 147 ; in the camp 
 
 at Kurtepe, 75, 78 
 
 J. 
 
 January, 1868, 262; 1871, before 
 Paris, 364, 365; Paris sur- 
 rendered, 29th, 1871,371 
 
 "Jason," on board the, 39, 46, 48 
 
 Jews in Stamboul, 38 
 
 Joss-house, 185 
 
 Journey from Berlin to Speyer, 
 
 July, 1870, 283 
 June, 1854, in the Crimea, 30- 
 
 55; 1866, in Bohemia, 222- 
 
 231 
 July, 1854, in the Crimea, 55- 
 
 73 ; 1860, in China, 157- 
 
 164; 1866, in Bohemia, 231- 
 
 258 ; 1870, in Germany, 271- 
 
 282 
 " Jura," on board the, 154 
 
 K. 
 
 Kameke, General, 370 
 
 Kamtchik, river, 81 
 
 Kamara, 131, 132 
 
 Karasu, 59 
 
 Katcha, river, 112, 125, 126 
 
 Kendugan, advanced posts at, 
 
 104 ; country round, 106 
 Khans, 32 
 
 Kirkback, General von, 291 
 Kit, advantages of a small, 92 
 Keniggratz, 235 
 Konigshof , Prussian army near, 
 
 229 
 Kooleli, 22-27 ; climate of, 28 ; 
 
 a barrack, 29 
 Koostenji, 71, 72 
 Kortolitz, Prussian success at, 
 
 227, 228 
 Kreuzberg, 242 
 Kreuznach, stampede from, in 
 
 1870, 272, 273 
 Kurtepi, new camp at, 73; 
 
 storm at, 77 
 Kweliang, Imperial Chinese 
 
 Commissioner, 182 ; arrival at 
 
 Tiensin, 184
 
 Index. 
 
 401 
 
 L. 
 
 Lady , a quarrelsome person, 
 
 356 
 
 Lambinet, M., 338, 339 
 
 Lancaster guns a failure, 127 
 
 Lancers, 17th, in the Crimea, 
 16, 20, 30, 32; embark for 
 
 , Varna, 24; at Balaclava, 131, 
 136 
 
 Landau, 274, 288 
 
 Landells, Mr., of the Illustrated 
 News, 252-254, 298, 305, 322, 
 342 ; sends sketches from 
 Coulommiers, 326, 327 
 
 Lawrence, Colonel, 104 
 
 Le Bceuf, General, 289, 333 
 
 Leitomischel, castle of, 289 
 
 Lennox, Colonel, 367 
 
 Leopold, Archduke, 228 
 
 Lichenstein, Prince, summer- 
 house of, 255 
 
 Lichtenberg, surrender of, 299 
 
 Ligny, Germans at, 308 
 
 Liverpool, 154 
 
 Llewellyn, Mr. 122 
 
 Lloyd Lindsay, Colonel, 341 
 
 Locke, Mr., 194, 195 ; a prisoner 
 in Pekin, 199, 213 
 
 Locusts, 87 
 
 Loftus, Lord A., 264, 380 
 
 Loire, Army of the, defeated 
 near Orleans, 341 
 
 Loo, Thie Shan, 161 
 
 Louise, Princess, engaged to 
 Lord Lome, 345 
 
 Lowe, Colonel, 99, 274 
 
 Lucan, Lord, goes to the Crimea, 
 8, 9, 10 ; visits Omar Pasha, 
 21 ; his carelessness, 24 ; his 
 unpunctuality, 28, 30, 31 ; 
 buying stores, 44 ; at Devna, 
 
 50, 60, 61, 67 ; made Lieu- 
 tenant-General, 96 ; at Bala- 
 clava, 114, 131, 135, 137 ; at 
 Inkerman, 140 
 
 Lucca at Berlin, 265 
 
 Luders, General, 120; forces 
 under, 121 
 
 Luneville, 300 
 
 Lung, Kolinsum, Tartar com- 
 mander-in-chief, 179 
 
 Lyons, Admiral Sir E., 32, 74, 
 126 ; a fine sailor, 128, 147 
 
 Lyons, Lord, leaves Paris, 1870, 
 333 
 
 M. 
 
 MacMahon at Balaclava, 131 ; 
 at Wiirth, 292, 293 ; defeated 
 by Prussians, 293 ; lost his 
 baggage, 293 ; loses his 
 fourgon, 294 ; movements in 
 August, 1870, 313 ; at Sedan, 
 316 ; his army at Sedan, 319; 
 losses at Wiirth, 300 
 
 McMahon, Major, 18, 28, 54 
 
 McKenzie's Farm, 113, 119 
 
 Malta, island of, 4 ; buildings 
 in, 5, 6 ; climate, 6 
 
 Malmaison damaged during 
 siege, 316 ; fighting at, 344 
 
 Marmora, Sea of, 17 
 
 March 22nd, 1877, 383 
 
 Maude, Captain, at Balaclava, 
 132 ; at Alma, 142 
 
 Maurice, General, 71 
 
 " Mauritius," on board the, 127, 
 128 
 
 May, 1854, 4, 30 
 
 Menchikoff at Inkerman, 140, 
 145 ; rear guard, 165
 
 402 
 
 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 Metz, fighting before, 303, 304, 
 
 305 ; Trench troops in, 307 
 Meudon, chateau of, 372 
 Meyrell, Mrs., 66 
 Michel, General, 216 
 Michel, Grand Duke, 141 
 Minie rifle, 146 
 Moltke, Bismarck's opinion of, 
 
 263, 373 ; urged the war 
 
 with France, 376, 377 
 Montmirail, 325 
 Montauban, 157, 211; War 
 
 Minister of France, 302 
 Montebello, 8 
 Moravian a ad Bohemian towns 
 
 compared, 247 
 Morier, Sir B., 287 
 Mosque of St. Sophia, 35 ; night 
 
 prayers at, 40, 41, 42 ; of 
 
 Sultan Achmet, 35, 42 ; of 
 
 the Sultan Valide, 32 
 Mount Olympus, 11, 17 
 Mosquitoes in Crimea, 57 ; in 
 
 China, 181, 187 
 Mules, purchase of, 3, 5 ; a bad 
 
 speculation, 39 
 
 N. 
 
 Nachod, battle of, 225 ; number 
 killed at, 241 ; wounded at, 
 261 
 
 Namik Pasha, 23 ; dinner with, 
 40,41 
 
 Napier, Lord, 178, 380 
 
 Napoleon, Emperor, 333 ; offer 
 of secret treaty with Prussia, 
 280 ; surrender at Sedan, 
 318 ; deceived about Sedan, 
 324 
 
 Napoleon, Prince, 13, 52, 57, 
 58, 265, 266 
 
 Nat-sai-tsum, 191 
 
 Navy short of hands, 125, 304 
 
 Newspaper reports false, 22 
 
 Night alarm, 113 
 
 Nolan, Capt., 135, 137 
 
 November (1854), 138; the 
 cold in, 138, 139, 142, 143, 
 144, 153; (1870) at Versailles, 
 348 
 
 Nun, interview with, 350, 351 
 
 0. 
 October (1854), 117-138; (1860) 
 
 at Pekin, 209; (1870) at 
 
 Versailles, 336; (1871) at 
 
 Berlin, 376 
 
 Ordensfest at Versailles, 366 
 Omar Pasha, 49, 59, 60, 61, 67 
 Opatories, 235, 244 
 Os man Pasha, 20, 21 
 Orders, contradictory, for the 
 
 troops, 24, 25, 38 
 Orleans, battle of, 341 ; French 
 
 success at, 351 
 
 P. 
 
 Paget, Lord George, 
 
 Palaisseau, 329 
 
 Palladine, Gen., 351 
 
 Pardubitz, 236, 237 
 
 Paris, 1870, the Germans ap- 
 proach, 329; surrounded, 330 ; 
 during the siege, 332, 335, 
 337, 374 ; attacked by Vinoy, 
 336; from Ville d'Avray, 
 342 ; sorties from, Oct., 344 ; 
 sorties from, Nov. 1st, 348 ; 
 Nov. 29, 355 ; Nov. 30, 357 ; 
 French efforts to break out
 
 Index. 
 
 403 
 
 from, Dec., 358; forts of, 
 silenced, Dec. 30, 364 ; bom- 
 barded, 365 ; surrenders Jan., 
 1871, 371 ; state of, after the 
 siege, 373, 374; German 
 march before, 374 
 
 Parkes, Mr. Consul, at Canton, 
 1860, 190; his precautions at 
 Hoseewoo, 191, 192 ; deceived 
 by the Chinese, 193, 194; a 
 captive at Pekin, 199, 205, 
 213 
 
 Parker, Captain, 66 
 
 Paskewitch, Gen., 104 
 
 Paulet, Lord George, 146 
 
 Paulet, Lord William, 18, 125 ; 
 at Balaclava, 131 
 
 Peace, China accepts terms of, 
 1860, 185, 221 ; preliminaries 
 signed between Austria and 
 Prussia, 1866, 253 
 
 Pechili, Gulf of, 163 
 
 Peel, Captain, 43, 49 
 
 Peiho, forts to be attacked at, 
 158 ; orders to embark at, 
 160 ; ice at, 186 
 
 Peiho, River, 184 
 
 Pekin, road from Tachi Koo to, 
 183, 184 ; the country round, 
 203, 207 ; European prisoners 
 in, 209, 210, 213 ; climate of, 
 210 ; camp near, 211 ; the 
 French looting the Summer 
 Palace at, 211; view from 
 the water of, 215 ; destruc- 
 tion of the palaces at, 216- 
 218 
 
 Pera, 10 ; society in, 12 
 
 Perponcher, Count, 367 
 
 Petersbach, Prussian army at, 
 299 ; population of, 300 
 
 Petersdorf, Count, and others 
 arrested for correspondence 
 with France, July, 1870, 279 
 
 Petite Pierre, position aban- 
 doned by the French, 299 
 
 Pfalzburg, 299 
 
 Pihtang, the allies land at, 163, 
 168 ; town of, 166 ; occupa- 
 tion of the forts of, 166 ; the 
 water at, 180 
 
 Pless, Prince, 250, 251, 252 
 
 Pocklington, Major, 4 
 
 Podbielski, 358 
 
 Portal, Captain, 99 
 
 Postal arrangements defective 
 in 1854, 39, 51, 53; before 
 Sedan, 1870, 319 ; curious at 
 Versailles, 340 
 
 Poultry, Turkish, 43 
 
 Prague, 261 
 
 Prausnitz, the Prussians at, 228, 
 230 
 
 Prerau, small fight at, 249 
 
 Princes' Islands, 17 
 
 Prodlitz, fighting at, 248, 249 ; 
 Count Kalnocky's schloss at, 
 248 
 
 Provisions, Chinese, 182 
 
 Prussia, Crown Prince of, the, 
 at Carmenz, 223 ; on the 
 march, 225 ; in battle near 
 Nachod, 227; his character, 
 229, 237, 257, 279, 280, 392 ; 
 at Prausnitz, 230 ; Bismarck's 
 rudeness to the, 231, 380; 
 his determination at Chlum, 
 233 ; his views on the future 
 of Prussia, 245 ; his kindness 
 to Colonel Walker, 257, 259 ; 
 his good intentions, 267, 268 ; 
 gives a masked ball, 269 ;
 
 404 
 
 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 Steinmetz on the, 270 ; ap- 
 pointed to command the South 
 German army, 1870, 274, 276 ; 
 at Munich, 282 ; goes to Ger- 
 mersheim, 283 ; with his army 
 at Landau, 289 ; at the battle 
 of Wiirth, 292, 293 ; his sym- 
 pathy with MacMahon, 297 ; 
 averse to the annexation of 
 Alsace, 301 ; his success in 
 France, 311 ; his losses at 
 Sedan, 316; gives Walker the 
 Iron Cross, 326 ; at Versailles, 
 330; the Brigade Yoights 
 Rhetz give a dinner to, 333 ; 
 gives the Iron Crosses to his 
 soldiers at Versailles, 334 ; 
 fighting outside Paris, 337 ; 
 his birthday, 1870, 341 ; his 
 Christmas Tree, 1870, 363; 
 first greets his father as 
 Emperor, 367, 368; returns 
 to Germany, 375 ; on war 
 with Russia, 379; on the 
 Brunswick succession, 380 ; 
 his first illness, 381 ; as Em- 
 peror, 387, 388; his death, 
 392 
 
 Prussia, King of, decorates the 
 Crown Prince in Bavaria, 
 231 ; with Count Moltke in 
 the war, 1866, 254 ; his kind- 
 ness to Colonel Walker, 259, 
 364; in 1868, 263; has a 
 shooting-party at Wiisters- 
 hausen, 266, 267 ; meets the 
 Princess of Wales, 269 ; his 
 sadness at the Declaration of 
 War, 1870, 272 ; his reception 
 in Berlin, July, 1870, 272; 
 before Metz, 304 ; affected by 
 
 the losses before Metz, 308 ; 
 passes through Ligny, 310 ; 
 receives the Emperor's letter 
 at Sedan, 319 ; at Boursalt 
 after Sedan, 321 ; proclaimed 
 Emperor of Germany at 
 Versailles, 367, 368; his 
 aversion to war, 376, 377 ; 
 celebrates his eighty-first 
 birthday, 383, 384 ; what he 
 had done for Germany, 385, 
 386; his funeral, 387; his 
 strength three weeks before 
 his death, 389 
 
 Prussia, Queen of, meets the 
 Princess of Wales, 269 ; her 
 farewell to Colonel Walker, 
 1870, 278 
 
 Prussian army, successes in 
 June, 1866, 225, 227, 230; 
 superior arms of the, 229 ; 
 its losses at Trautenau and 
 Nachod, 241 ; its soldiers, 
 243; successful at Prodlitz, 
 248, 249 ; organisation of 
 the, 1870, 289; its losses at 
 Weissenburg, 291 ; at Wiirth, 
 293, 300 ; at Morsbroun, 294 ; 
 dash of the troops in the, 
 297 ; its losses at Gorze, 
 303 ; its losses before Metz, 
 304, 305, 307 ; cut the 
 railway between Sedan and 
 Theonville, 314 ; its losses 
 at Sedan, 316 ; in the battle 
 of Sedan, 319, 321 ; neglected 
 before Paris by the govern- 
 ment, 359 ; thieves in the, 
 361 
 
 Piickler, Count, 367
 
 Index. 
 
 405 
 
 R. 
 
 Radziwill, Prince, 274, 270, 
 377 
 
 Raglan, Lord, 18, 19 ; goes to 
 Yama, 20; ill, 24, 38, 47, 50, 
 60, 68, 80 ; orders about dress, 
 90 ; satisfied at Alma, 111 ; 
 objects to fighting on Sun- 
 day, 104, 113 ; at Balaclava, 
 131, 132, 133; his mistakes, 
 145 ; his kindness, 151 
 
 Bamazan, 29, 42 
 
 Ramming, Gen., 228 
 
 Rastatt, 274 ; prepared for war, 
 276 
 
 Rawlinson, Sir H., at Bagdad, 
 263, 264 
 
 Redan, 129 
 
 Redoubt Kali, the, 32 
 
 Reellj, Col., 257, 258, 259; 
 sent back to England, 359 
 
 Rheims, 317 
 
 " Retribution," H.M.S., in the 
 gale, 144 
 
 Revigny aux Vaches, 311 
 
 Russell, Lord Odo, 292, 294, 
 302, 351, 353-355; kindness 
 to "Walker, 357 ; leaves Paris, 
 375 ; appointed Ambassador 
 to Berlin, 380 ; conversation 
 with Bismarck (1872), 382 
 
 Russell, Dr., Times correspon- 
 dent, 278, 322 
 
 Russia, Emperor of, at Berlin, 
 270 
 
 Russian troops at Silistria, 20, 
 22, 32, 55 ; sick at Dobruscha, 
 44 ; ships in the Black Sea, 74; 
 troops at Sevastopol, 89, 90, 
 103 ; rear guard near Bala- 
 
 clava, 113, 114, 119, 121. 
 army at Balaclava, 131 ; pri- 
 soners, 138 ; losses at Inker- 
 man, 139, 140, 141, 145, 146 ; 
 courtesy at Pekin, 216 
 
 Russians defeated at Silistria, 
 32 
 
 Rustchuck, 66 
 
 Rossol, 381 
 
 Roullee, Mde. de, 358,373, 374 
 
 S. 
 Saarbrucken, French defeated 
 
 near, 286, 288, 296, 305 
 Saint Arnaud, Marshal, in the 
 
 Crimea, 13, 47, 60, 68, 97; 
 
 his order to the army, Aug., 
 
 1854, 89 ; British distrust of, 
 
 100 
 Saint Cloud, view over Paris 
 
 from the Lanterne of, 332, 
 
 333 ; village burnt, 369, 370 
 Saint George, town of, 124 
 Saint Germain, Corbeil, 327, 
 
 337 
 
 Saint Menehould, 312, 313 
 " Sampson," H.M.S., under fire, 
 
 124 
 
 Saxe-Weimar, Prince of, 287 
 Saxony, Crown Prince of, 267 ; 
 
 at Sedan, 315, 316, 318 
 Scarlett, Gen., in the Crimea, 
 
 33, 121 ; his courage, 134, 
 
 138 
 
 Schleinitz, 287 
 Schwalbach, July 1870, 275 
 Schwerin, Grand Duke of, 278, 
 
 279 
 Scutari, British troops at, 1854, 
 
 7, 10, 12 ; climate of, 18-22,
 
 406 
 
 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 37; a review at, 29, 30; 
 sickness at, 123 ; sufferings 
 of the wounded at, 123, 148 
 
 Seckendorff, Count, 387 
 
 Seckoo, 188 
 
 Sedan, battle of, 314-316, 318- 
 321 ; armies engaged at, 
 321 
 
 Selimick, barrack at Scutari, 
 29 
 
 Senen, 313 
 
 September, 1854, in the Crimea, 
 91-117 ; 1860, in China, 183- 
 209; 1870, in France, 314- 
 336 
 
 Seraglio Point, 11 
 
 Sevastapol, 36, plan of cam- 
 paign against, 88 ; first view 
 of, 117,119,120; fire from, 
 124 ; attack upon, Oct. 18th, 
 125, 126 ; the siege not going 
 well, 127, 128; Russian losses 
 before, Oct., 129 ; the scene 
 before, 133 
 
 Sevres, china manufactory at, 
 358 
 
 Shakespeare, Captain, at Bala- 
 clava, 132 
 
 Ships lost in storms near Bala- 
 clava, 145 
 
 Shumla, 20, 51 
 
 Shute, Gen., 150 
 
 Silistria, Russians invest, 20, 
 22 ; Russians defeated at, 32, 
 55 ; lost through want of 
 transport, 49 ; the siege 
 raised, 50, 51, 55 
 
 Simla, on board the, 92, 96 
 
 Sinho, English encamped near, 
 171; skirmish near, 171, 172; 
 vegetables at, 175 ; the forts 
 
 of fall, 177, 178; brackish 
 water at, 180 
 
 Sirocco, 7 
 
 Sivernaija, Port, 88 
 
 Skalitz, 227, 228 
 
 Skinner, Mr., of the Daily News, 
 298, 302, 305, 322 
 
 Skirmish in the Crimea, Oct., 
 118, 119, 148, 149 
 
 Snakes in the Crimea, 68, 75, 
 79 
 
 Sourd, M. le, arrested at Ver- 
 sailles, 343 
 
 Spahis, 59 
 
 Speyer, 284, 285 
 
 Stamboul, 14, 16, 30 ; bazaars 
 in, 33, 34, 35 ; Jews in, 38 ; 
 illuminated. 41, 42 
 
 Statements, false, in Paris 
 newspapers, 1870, 309, 310 
 
 Steele, Col., 150 
 
 Steinmetz, Gen., successful at 
 Nachod, 227; at Kortolitz, 
 228, 230; on the Crown 
 Prince, 270, 287, 289 ; defeats 
 General Frossard, 293 ; defeats 
 the French, Aug. 14th, 303 
 
 Sfcoffel, Gen., at Sedan, 316, 
 319; reports on the Prussians, 
 374 
 
 Storms, at Scutari, 21 ; at 
 Yarna, 52, 57, 67; at Kur- 
 tepe, 77 ; before Sevastopol, 
 143; in China, 177 
 
 Strasburg, capitulation of, 334, 
 336 
 
 Strelitz, Grand Duke of, 297, 
 298 
 
 Summer Palace, the, Pekin, 
 the French loot, 211 ; descrip- 
 tion of, 212
 
 Index. 
 
 407 
 
 T. 
 
 Tah-Chi-Koo, 180, 182 
 Taku fort attacked, 172 
 Talien Bay, troops at, 157, 158, 
 
 159 
 
 Tann, Gen. Von der, 341, 351 
 Tanebourg, 300 
 Tarkanlar, fighting at, 108 
 Tartar, 114; hopes from 
 
 Crimean War, 125 ; force, 
 
 175, 176, 202 
 Tenedos, 8 
 
 Tchenquelquai, 29, 33 
 Tchorgana, 118 
 Thiers at Versailles, 354 
 Therapia, a trip to, 34 
 Tiensin, troops around, 163, 
 
 178, 179 ; city of, 181-183 
 "Tiger," H.M.S., loss of, 23, 
 
 24 
 Times correspondent, 278, 328 ; 
 
 report about Wiirth, 353 
 Trautenau, battle at, 228; 
 
 becomes a hospital, 331 
 Transport, want of, 63 
 Treskow, General, 276, 277- 
 
 279, 378 
 Treaty, secret, proposed by 
 
 France, 280 
 Trochu, General, 381 ; in Paris, 
 
 358, 365, 371, 372 
 Truce (22nd July, 1866), 252 
 Triibau, Moravian, 241, 244 
 Tungchow, quarters in, 193 ; 
 
 city of, 200 ; battle near, 198- 
 
 200; camp near, 203; Chinese 
 
 breakfast at, 205 
 Tungkoo, 178 
 
 Turkey, Sultan of, 30 
 
 Turkish dress 13, 14; people, 
 17; climate, 15, 18, 19; 
 dinners, 23, 40, 41 ; hos- 
 pitality, 45, 84, 85 ; troops, 
 67; at Balaclava, 130, 132, 
 133, 134 
 
 U. 
 
 Uniforms, comparison of, 243 
 
 V. 
 
 Valerien restored to the French, 
 375 
 
 Vannes, Fort, 365 
 
 Varna, 20; troops sent to, 23; 
 British camp at, 44, 47, 48, 
 51 ; French camp near, 51 ; 
 description of, 52, 53 ; heat 
 at, 54, 55, 77 ; country be- 
 hind, 55, 56, 57, 73; army 
 deteriorating at, 79 ; fire at, 
 79 ; losses through fire, 82 ; 
 troops leave, 95 
 
 Vaucouleurs, Meuse, 306 
 
 Verney, Sir Harry, 379 
 
 Versailles, the Germans at, 329; 
 Crown Prince of Prussia at, 
 330; the palace becomes a 
 hospital, 331 ; the Crown 
 Prince gives the Iron Cross 
 to his soldiers at, 334 ; full 
 of rumours, November, 1870, 
 354 ; the King of Prussia 
 proclaimed Emperor at, 367- 
 368 
 
 Vinoy, General, 326, 327; de- 
 feated near Plessis Piquet,
 
 408 
 
 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 329; attacks Paris near 
 Meudon, 336; the Parisians 
 clamour for his dismissal, 
 371 
 Visconti, Countess, 338, 342, 
 
 359, 362 
 
 Vizetelly at Saarbriiken, 305 
 Voights Rhetz, Gen., 263 
 
 W. 
 
 Wade, Mr., 179 
 
 Waldeck, funeral of, 270 
 
 Waldersee, 376 
 
 Wales, Prince of, in Berlin, 
 1869, 268; in March, 1881, 
 387, 390; his return from 
 India, 383 ; invites Walker 
 to accompany him to Em- 
 peror William's funeral, 391 
 
 Wales, Princess of, in Berlin 
 1869, 268, 269 
 
 Walker, Col., on board the 
 "Melita," 1-8; at Gibraltar, 
 2, 3 ; bought a mule, 3 ; lost 
 " Sultan," 4 ; at Malta, 4-7 ; 
 in the Dardanelles, 8 ; at 
 Gallipoli, 8 ; at Constanti- 
 nople, 9 ; at Scutari, 12-23 ; 
 attends ball at the French 
 Embassy, 12, 13; visits Stam- 
 boul, 14-16 ; buys an Arab, 
 16, 69 ; dress at Scutari, 19 ; 
 visits Osman Pasha with Lord 
 Lucan, 20, 21 ; sent to Koo- 
 leli, 23 ; at Lord Raglan's, 
 23, 24 ; at Kooleli, 25 ; visits 
 the Golden Horn, 25 ; at 
 Tchenquelquai, 29 ; visits 
 Stamboul bazaars, 30 - 32 ; 
 with Capt. Neville, 33, 35; 
 
 his purchases for his mother, 
 
 33, 34; a trip to Therapia, 
 
 34, 35 ; visits the mosques of 
 St. Sophia, &c., 35, 40, 42; 
 present at a Jewish funeral, 
 38 ; at a Turkish dinner, 40, 
 41 ; at Galata, 44 ; has coffee 
 with a Turk, 45 ; buys a 
 baggage-pony, 45, 46, 58 ; on 
 board the " Jason," 46, 47 ; 
 at Varna, 47-73; his day's 
 work, 48, 61, 63 ; his kit, 48, 
 92, 116 ; explores the back of 
 the camp at Varna, 55, 56, 
 57 ; his impressions of the 
 French army, 60 ; sent to 
 Devna, 61 ; his food in the 
 Crimea, 65, 117, 121, 146, 
 148; on board the " Belle- 
 rophon,'' 71 ; at Kurtepe, 73 ; 
 foraging for barley, 73, 86, 
 89 ; snakes in his tent, 79 ; 
 rides to Karnchick River, 
 81 ; in search of food, 84, 
 85 ; meets Bashi Bazouks, 
 85 ; on board the " Simla," 
 92 ; collects deserted chargers, 
 &c., 93 ; at Baltchik Bay, 
 95 ; under weigh for the 
 Crimea, 95 ; in the Black 
 Sea, 97 ; sees the combined 
 fleets, 98 ; oif Cape Tarkan, 
 99 ; off Eupatoria, 101 ; first 
 sight of the enemy, 102 ; at 
 the advanced posts, 104; at 
 Alma, 107-112; at Balaclava 
 112, 115, 131-133, 136, 137; 
 marches to Inkerman, 113 ; 
 sees the Russian division, 
 114 ; state of his wardrobe, 
 117, 118 ; at Tchorgana, 118;
 
 Index. 
 
 409 
 
 in a skirmish with the 
 Russians, 118, 119 ; first 
 view of Sevastopol, 119, 120 ; 
 on board the "Colombo," 123- 
 125, 152 ; in action on board 
 the " Bellerophon," 125, 126, 
 146; visits the "Agamemnon," 
 127 ; on the "Mauritius," 128; 
 returns to the camp, 129, 
 130 ; before Sevastopol, 133, 
 138, 139, 142; at Inkerman, 
 139-141 ; heavy storms, 143 ; 
 hears from home, 147, 148 ; 
 thinks of returning home, 
 150, 153; receives kind offers 
 from Lord Raglan, 150, 151 ; 
 visits the Genoese castles 
 near Balaclava, 152, 153 ; on 
 board the " Jura," off Liver- 
 pool, 154 ; loses " Jemmy," 
 155 ; epitomes of his career 
 and promotions, 156, 222, 
 262; in Talien Bay, 157, 158; 
 dislikes allied operations, 
 159, 160 ; off Loo Thie Shan, 
 161 ; in the Gulf of Pechili, 
 163 ; on board Sir Hope 
 Grant's ship, 164; at Pihtang, 
 166 ; in camp near Sinho, 
 171 ; nearly lost in mud, 171 ; 
 explores the Peiho River, 
 173, 174; sees the Tartar 
 force, 175 ; assists a wounded 
 man, 176 ; rides near Tiensin, 
 176 ; at Ching Liang Chung, 
 177 ; sees the Peiho forts fall, 
 177; visits Tung Koo, 178; 
 at Tiensin, 181, 183, 184; 
 hopes to return home, 185 ; 
 in a mat-house, 186 ; going 
 to Pekin, 187 ; buys furs, 
 
 187 ; marches to Seekoo, 188 ; 
 at Yangtsum, 188, 189; has 
 an adventure, 189 ; at Hosee- 
 woo, 190, 191, 192; loses a 
 horse, 191, 200 ; at Chan Kia 
 Whan, 192, 193 ; suspects 
 treachery, 194, 195 ; has a 
 narrow escape, 194-198, 203 ; 
 in Tungchow, 200 ; in a 
 brush with Tartar cavalry, 
 201, 202; in camp near 
 Tungchow, 203-211; at a 
 Chinese breakfast and dinner, 
 205, 206 ; the road to Pekin, 
 207 ; at church, 209 ; in camp 
 near Pekin, 211 ; finds the 
 French looting the Summer 
 Palace, 211 ; short of money, 
 213 ; in Pekin, 216 ; visits a 
 Chinese bell, 219 ; receives 
 prize money, 220; excursions 
 in China, 221 ; at Franken- 
 stein, June, 1866, 222 ; with 
 the Crown Prince in Bo- 
 hemia, 223, 225, 231, 259; 
 at Carmenz, 224; at Eckers- 
 dorf, 225; at battle of 
 Nachod, 225, 226; at 
 Braunau, 226 ; at battle of 
 Trautecau, 228; at Prausnitz, 
 230; at Horonovics, 232; at 
 Opatovics, 235, 244; at 
 Chranstovics, 236 ; at Lei- 
 tomischel, 238 ; visits the 
 Castle of Pardubitz, 239; at 
 Triiban, 241 ; goes to Kreuz- 
 berg, 242 ; at Konitz, Moravia, 
 245 ; borrows a horse from 
 Blumenthal, 246; at Eisgrub, 
 250-257; with the King of 
 Prussia, 259, 262, 310, 321, 364; 
 
 2E
 
 4io 
 
 Days of a Soldier's Life. 
 
 at Prague, 261 ; returns to 
 Berlin after the war, 261 ; 
 with Bismarck at Hartz, 
 263 ; has a shooting party at 
 Sedden, 264, 265; at Wiisters- 
 hausen with the King of 
 Prussia, 266 ; has a talk with 
 the Crown Prince, 268 ; pre- 
 sented to the Princess of 
 Wales, 269 ; visits Prince W. 
 Radziwell, 271 ; summoned 
 back to Germany 1870, 271 ; 
 at Cologne, 272 ; at Weis- 
 baden, 272, 273 ; his journey 
 to Berlin, 276 ; asks to ac- 
 company the Crown Prince, 
 277 ; allowed to accompany 
 the German army 1870, 278 ; 
 his attachment to the Crown 
 Prince, 279 ; aware of the 
 secret treaty, 280 ; discusses 
 Austria with Count Welser- 
 heim, 281 ; meets Bismarck, 
 281; joins the Crown Prince's 
 staff in the Palatinate, 282 ; 
 buys a mare, 282, 296, 306 ; 
 meets Alversleben, 282, 349 ; 
 his journey to Speyer, 283 ; 
 meets Prince Leopold of 
 Hohenzollern, 283; at Speyer, 
 284 ; with the Crown Prince, 
 286, 292, 302, 333, 334; at 
 Rambach, 288; at Sulz, Bas 
 Rhin, 290 ; sees the battle of 
 Weissenberg, 291 ; with the 
 Crown Prince at Wiirth, 292, 
 293, 295 ; goes to Merzweiler, 
 293 ; at battle of Marsbroun, 
 293 ; in Alsace, 295 ; on 
 requisitions, 298 ; at Peters- 
 bach, 299 ; at Luneville, 300- 
 
 303 ; at Nancy, 305 ; meets 
 Vizetelly, 305 ; at Vaucou- 
 leurs, Meuse, 306 ; and an 
 impertinent youth, 307 ; at 
 Ligny, 308, 309 ; contradicts 
 false statements in Paris 
 journals, 309 ; at Revigny 
 aux Vaches, 311, 312 ; at 
 Menehould, 313 ; at Senen, 
 313; at Donchery, 314; at 
 the battle of Sedan, 314-316, 
 319 ; at Rheims, 3 17-320; hears 
 from Balmoral, 317, 336 ; in- 
 dignant with the Foreign 
 Office, 317, 324, 325; at 
 Boursault, 320-324; worried 
 by Englishmen, 331, 332 ; at 
 St. Cloud, 332, 333; buys a 
 revolver, 322 ; telegraphs to 
 the Queen, 323 ; at Mont- 
 mirail, 325 ; at Coulommiers, 
 326, 327; receives the Iron 
 Cross, 326, 357; at St Ger- 
 main, Corbeil, 327 ; short of 
 news, 328 ; at Palaisseau, 
 329; at Versailles, 329-330, 
 334-338, at St. Germain, 337 ; 
 indignant with the War 
 Office, 338, 340-342, 356; 
 writes to Balmoral, 339 : with 
 an unreasonable woman, 340 ; 
 at Clomart, 341 ; sees Paris 
 from Ville d'Avray, 342, 347 ; 
 at Malmaison, 344, 361, 362; 
 at Garches, 345 ; has an ad- 
 venture, 346 ; with Madame 
 de Roullee,347, 358, 373; with 
 Madame de Visconti, 379; 
 receives money from England 
 for the destitute English, 369 
 telegram from Lord Granville
 
 Index. 
 
 411 
 
 to, 350 ; visits General 
 von Loen, 352 ; and Mr. 
 Worth's case, 352, 353, 356 ; 
 meets Odo Russell, 354 ; 
 watches the fighting near 
 Paris, 358 ; tries to get help 
 for the destitute French, 
 360 ; a satisfactory letter 
 from the Foreign Office, 360 ; 
 hears from Windsor, 361 ; 
 promoted, 361 ; present at 
 the proclamation of the 
 German Empire, 367; with 
 General Kameke,370; watch- 
 ing the fighting at Bellevue, 
 371 ; visits the forts of Paris, 
 372 ; his views on the future 
 of France, 372 ; visits Montre- 
 tout, 373; loses his Iron 
 Cross, 373 ; at Chartres, 375 ; 
 dines with Count Eulenburg, 
 376 ; discusses the English 
 troops with General Treskow, 
 378 ; shooting with the Duke 
 of Brunswick, 379 ; at the 
 Court of Berlin, 380; dines 
 at the N"eue Palace, 383; takes 
 leave of the Emperor, 384, 
 385 ; takes leave of the 
 Crown Prince, 384; returns 
 to England, 385 ; appointed 
 Director-General of Military 
 Education, 385 ; attends the 
 funeral of the Emperor Wil- 
 liam with the Prince of 
 Wales, 386-389; received by 
 the Empress Frederic, 387, 
 389; sees the Emperor Fre- 
 deric, 389 ; sees the Empress 
 Augusta, 390 ; meets Prince 
 Henry of Prussia, 391 
 Walsh, Miss, 25, 27 
 
 War, 1870, commencement of 
 
 the, 282; why necessary for 
 
 Germany, 377 
 War Office deficiencies, 338, 340, 
 
 341 
 
 Webb, death of, 148 
 Weisbaden, 275 
 Weiss, Herr, 273 
 Weissenberg, fighting at, 290, 
 
 291 
 
 Welserheim, Count, 281 
 Werder, General v., 283, 359 ; 
 
 repulses Bourbaki, 366 
 White Tower at Sevastopol, 129 
 Weimar, Grand Duke of, 368 
 Winsloe, Mr., death of, 289 
 Winterfield, 309, 310 
 Witzleben, Edmund, 307 
 Women, Turkish, 14, 26 
 Wodehouse,Mr., in Paris during 
 
 the siege, 333, 351, 356 
 Woodford, Sir A., 264 
 Worth, Mr., arrested, 350, 352, 
 
 356 
 Wrangel, Field-Marshal, 239, 
 
 242, 383 
 Wrangel, Lieut, von, at Konig- 
 
 gratz, 235 
 Wurtemburg, Prince August of, 
 
 224 
 Wurtemberg, Prince William 
 
 of, 297, 298 
 Wurtembergers killed before 
 
 Paris, 357 
 
 Wiirth, battle of, 292, 300 
 Wiistershausen, chateau of, 267 
 
 Z. 
 
 Zouaves, 60, 76 ; accident to 
 the, 93 ; plan for attacking 
 the Russians, 150 
 
 Zwittau, skirmish near, 240
 
 WESTMINSTER : 
 
 PRINTED BY NICHOLS AND SON?, 
 25, PARLIAMENT STREET.
 
 v__i_ *? 6 
 
 - 
 
 r, HENRIETTA 'STREET, COVENT GARDEN, W.C. 
 
 JULY, 1894. 
 
 Catalogue of 
 
 PUBLISHED BY 
 
 CHAPMAN & HALL 
 
 LIMITED. 
 A separate Illustrated Catalogue is issued, containing 
 
 Drawing Examples, Diagrams, Models, Instruments, eto., 
 
 ISSUED UNDER THE AUTHORITY OF 
 
 THE SCIENCE AND ART DEPARTMENT, 
 SOUTH KENSINGTON, 
 
 FOR THE USE OF SCHOOLS AND ART AND SCIENCE CLASSES.
 
 NEW AND FORTHCOMING BOOKS. 
 
 MR. MEREDITH'S NEW NOVEL. 
 
 LORD ORMONT AND HIS AMINTA. By GEORGE MEREDITH. 
 
 3 vols. Crown 8vo. 
 
 GUN, RIFLE, AND HOUND IN BAST AND WEST. 
 
 By " SNAFFLE." With Illustrations. Demy 8vo. [/ the Press. 
 
 THE LIFE OF WARREN HASTINGS. By COL. G. R. 
 
 MALLESON, C.S.I. [/ the Press. 
 
 INCIDENTS OF FOREIGN SPORT AND TRAVEL. 
 
 By COLONEL POLLOK, Author of " Sport in British Burma," etc. With Illustrations. 
 Demy 8vo, i6s. 
 
 A WATERBIOGRAPHY. By ROBERT C. LESLIE, Author of 
 
 "A Sea Painter's Log," etc. With Illustrations by the Author. Crown 8vo. 
 
 (In tlie Press. 
 
 A PRACTICAL HANDBOOK OF DRAWING FOR 
 
 MODERN METHODS OF REPRODUCTION. By CHARLES G. HARPER. 
 With many Illustrations showing comparative results. Large crown 8vo, 75. 6d. 
 
 AGRICULTURAL ZOOLOGY. By DR. J. RITZRMA Bcs. 
 
 Translated by PROFESSOR J. R. AINSWORTH DAVIS, B.A., F.C.P. With a Preface by 
 Miss ORMEROD. Containing 149 Illustrations. Crown 8vo. [In the Press. 
 
 FIVE MONTHS' SPORT IN SOMALI LAND. By IORD 
 
 WOLVERTON. With Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 73. 6d. 
 
 CREATURES OF OTHER DAYS. By REV. H. N. 
 
 HUTCHINSON, Author of " Extinct Monsters." With a Preface by SIR W. H. FLOWER, 
 K.C B., F.R.S., and numerous Illustrations by J. SMIT and others. Large Demy 
 Demy 8vo, 145. 
 
 TRAVEL AND ADVENTURES IN THE CONGO 
 
 FREE STATE AND ITS BIG GAME SHOOTING. By Bi LA N'ZAU 
 (CAPTAIN H. BAILEY). Illustrated from the Author's sketches and Map. Demy 8vo, 145; 
 
 THE CLAIMS OF CHRISTIANITY. By W. S. LILLY. 
 
 Demy 8vo, ias. 
 
 THE NESTS AND EGGS OF NON- INDIGENOUS 
 
 BRITISH BIRDS. I'-y CHARLES DIXON, Author of "The Migration of Birds," 
 etc. With Coloured Front'spiece. Crown 8vo. 
 
 NAVAL ARCHITECTURE AND SHIP BUILDING. 
 
 By GEORGE C. V. HOLMES, Secretary to the Institution of Naval Architects. 
 
 [/* the Press. 
 
 A TEXT-BOOK OF MECHANICAL ENGINEERING. 
 
 By WILFRID J. LINEHAM, late Professor of Engineering at the School of Science and 
 Art and Technical College, Newcastle-on-Tyne, M.I.M.E., etc. Fully Illustrated 
 with Cuts and Diagrams. Crown 8vo. [In the Presf. 
 
 THE MYSTERY OF THE PATRICIAN CLUB. By 
 
 ALBERT D. VANDAM. 2 vols. Crown 8vo. 
 
 'MIDST THE WILD CARPATHIANS. By MAURUS JOKAI. 
 
 Translated by R. NISBET BAIN. Crown 8vo, 35. 6d.
 
 BOOKS 
 
 PUBLISHED BY 
 
 CHAPMAN & HALL, LIMITED. 
 
 ABOUT (EDMOND) 
 
 HANDBOOK OF SOCIAL ECONOMY; OR, THE 
 
 WORKER'S ABC. From the French. With a Biographical and Critical 
 Introduction by W. FRASER RAE. Second Edition, revised. Crown 8vo, 45. 
 
 ADAMS (HENRY), M.I.C.E., etc. 
 
 BUILDING CONSTRUCTION. Key to Examinations 
 
 of Science and Art Department. By HENRY ADAMS, M.Inst.C.E., M.I.Mech.E., 
 F.S.I., etc., Professor of Engineering at the City of London College. Crown 
 8vo, 45. 
 AFLALO (F. G.) and PASKE (SURGEON-GENERAL C. T.) 
 
 THE SEA AND THE ROD. With Illustrations. Crown 
 AGRICULTURAL SCIENCE (LECTURES ON), AND 
 
 OTHER PROCEEDINGS OF THE INSTITUTE OF AGRICULTURE, 
 SOUTH KENSINGTON, 1883-4. Crown 8vo, sewed, 25. 
 
 ANDERSON (ANDREW A.) 
 
 A ROMANCE OF N'SHABfi : Being a Record of Startling 
 
 Adventures in South Central Africa. With Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 5s. 
 ANDERSON (CAPTAIN LINDSAY) 
 
 THE STORY OF ALLAN GORDON. With Illustrations 
 
 Crown 8vo, 55. 
 
 AMONG TYPHOONS AND PIRATE CRAFT. 
 
 With Illustrations by STANLEY WOOD. Crown 8vo, 55. 
 
 A CRUISE IN AN OPIUM CLIPPER. With Illustra- 
 
 tions. Crown Svo, 6s. 
 AVELING (EDWARD], D.Sc., Fellow of University College, London 
 
 MECHANICS AND EXPERIMENTAL SCIENCE. 
 
 As required for the Matriculation Examination of the University of London. 
 MECHANICS. With numerous Woodcuts. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 Key to Problems in ditto, crown Svo, 35. 6d. 
 CHEMISTRY. With numerous Woodcuts. Crown Svo, 6s. 
 
 Key to Problems in ditto, crown Svo, as. 6d. 
 MAGNETISM AND ELECTRICITY. With Numerous Woodcuts, 
 
 Crown Svo. 6s. 
 
 LIGHT AND HEAT. With Numerous Woodcuts. Crown Svo, 6s. 
 Keys to the last two volumes in one vol. Crown Svo, 53. 
 
 BAILEY (CAPTAIN //.), (BULA N'ZAU) 
 
 CONGO FREE STATE AND ITS BIG GAME 
 
 SHOOTI N'G, TRAVEL AND ADVENTURES. Illustrated from the Author's 
 sketches. Demy Svo, 145. 
 
 BAILEY (JOHN BURN) 
 
 FROM SINNER TO SAINT; OR, CHARACTER TRANS- 
 
 FORMATIONS. Crown Svo, 6s. 
 
 MODERN METHUSELAHS; or, Short Biographical 
 
 Sketches of a few advanced Nonagenarians or actual Centenarians. Demy Svo, 
 IDS. fid. 
 BAKER (W. L.), A.M. I.C. E. 
 
 THE BEAM ; OR, TECHNICAL ELEMENTS OF GIRDER 
 
 CONSTRUCTION. Crown Svo, 45. 
 
 A 2
 
 BOOKS PUBLISHED BY 
 
 BE A TTY-K1NGS TON ( W. ) 
 
 A JOURNALIST'S JOTTINGS. 2 vols. Demy 8vo, 243. 
 A WANDERER'S NOTES. 2 vols. Demy 8vo, 245. 
 MUSIC AND MANNERS : Personal Reminiscences and 
 
 Sketches of Character. 2 vols. Demy 8vo, y&. 
 BELL (JAMES, Ph.D., &c.}, Principal of the Somerset House Laboratory 
 
 THE CHEMISTRY OF FOODS. With Microscopic 
 
 Illustrations. 
 
 PART I. TEA, COFFEE, COCOA, SUGAR, ETC. Large crown 8vo, as. 6d. 
 PART II. MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE, CEREALS, PREPARED 
 STARCHES, ETC. Large crown 8vo, 35. 
 
 BENTLEY (H. CUMBERLAND) 
 
 SONGS AND VERSES. Illustrated by FINCH MASON, 
 
 and dedicated to J. G. WHYTE MELVILLE. Crown 8vo, 45. 
 BIRD WOOD (SIR GEORGE C. M.), C.S.I. 
 
 THE INDUSTRIAL ARTS OF INDIA. With Map and 
 
 174 Illustrations. New Edition. Demy 8vo, 145. 
 BLACKIE (JOHN STUART), F.R.S.E. 
 
 THE SCOTTISH HIGHLANDERS AND THE LAND 
 
 LAWS. Demy 8vo, gs. 
 
 ALTAVONA: FACT AND FICTION FROM MY LIFE 
 
 IN THE HIGHLANDS. Third Edition. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 BLA THER WICK (C. } 
 
 IN THE SHADE OF SCHIEHALLION. With 8 Illus- 
 
 trations. i vol. Crown 8vo, is. 
 
 CVNTHIA. With 4 Illustrations. Crown 8vo, is. 
 
 BLEUNARD (A.) 
 
 BABYLON ELECTRIFIED : The History of an .Expe- 
 
 dition undertaken to restore Ancient Babylon by the Power of Electricity, and how 
 it Resulted. Translated from the French. Illustrated. Royal 8vo, 125. 
 
 BLOOMFIELD'S (BENJAMIN LORD), MEMOIR OF 
 
 MISSION TO THE COURT OF BERNADOTTE. With Portraits, a vols. 
 Demy 8vo, 283. 
 
 BONVALOT (GABRIEL) 
 
 THROUGH THE HEART OF ASIA OVER THE 
 
 PAMIR TO INDIA. Translated from the French by C. B. PITMAN. With 
 250 Illustrations by ALBERT PEPIN. Royal 8vo, 325. 
 
 BOS (DR. /. RITZEMA) 
 
 AGRICULTURAL ZOOLOGY. Translated by Professor 
 
 J. R. AINSWORTH DAVIS, B.A., F.C.P. With an Introduction by Miss E. A. 
 ORMKROD, F.R.Met.S., F.R.M.S., e.c. With 149 Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 
 
 BOYLE (FREDERICK) 
 
 FRpM THE FRONTIER : Sketches and Stories of Savage 
 
 Life. Crown 8vo, 35. 6d. 
 
 ABOUT ORCHIDS. A Chat. With Coloured Illustra- 
 
 tions. Large crown 8vo, 8s. 
 
 THE PROPHET JOHN. A Romance. Crown 8vo. 53. 
 
 BOYLE (FREDERICK) and RUSSAN (ASHMORE) 
 
 THE ORCHID SEEKERS: A Story of Adventure in 
 
 Borneo. Illustrated by ALFRED HARTLEY. Crown 8vo, 75. 6d.
 
 CHAPMAN &- HALL, LIMITED. 
 
 BRACKENBURY (COL. C. B.) 
 
 FREDERICK THE GREAT. With Maps and Portrait. 
 
 Large crown 8vo, 45. 
 BRADLEY (THOMAS), Royal Military Academy, Woolwich 
 
 ELEMENTS OF GEOMETRICAL DRAWING. In Two 
 
 Parts, with Sixty Plates. Oblong foho, half bound, each Part i6s. 
 BRIDGMAN (F. A.) 
 
 WINTERS IN ALGERIA. With 62 Illustrations. Royal 
 
 8vo, IQS. fid. 
 
 BRITISH ARMY, THE. By the Author of "Greater Britain." 
 
 Demy 8vo, 125. 
 
 BROCK (DR. J. H. .), Assistant Examiner in Hygiene, Science and Art 
 Department 
 
 ELEMENTS OF HUMAN PHYSIOLOGY FOR THE 
 
 HYGIENE EXAMINATIONS OF THE SCIENCE AND ART 
 DEPARTMENT. Crown 8vo, is. 6d. 
 
 BROMLEY-DAVENPORT (the late W.), M.P. 
 
 SPORT : Fox Hunting, Salmon Fishing, Covert Shooting, 
 
 Deer Stalking. With numerous Illustrations by General CRKALOCK, C.B. 
 New Cheap Edition. Post 8vo, 35. 6d. 
 
 BUCKLAND (FRANK) 
 
 LOG-BOOK OF A FISHERMAN AND ZOOLOGIST. 
 
 With Illustrations. Sixth Thousand. Crown 8vo, 35. 6d. 
 B UFFEN (F.F.) 
 
 MUSICAL CELEBRITIES : Portraits and Biographies. 
 
 Second Series. Crown 410, 215. 
 BURCHETT (R.) 
 
 LINEAR PERSPECTIVE, for the Use of Schools of Art. 
 
 New Edition. With Illustrations. Post 8vo, cloth, 75. 
 
 PRACTICAL GEOMETRY : The Course of Construction 
 
 of Plane Geometrical Figures. With 137 Diagrams. Eighteenth Edition. Pist 
 8vo, cloth, 55. 
 
 BURGESS (EDWARD) 
 
 ENGLISH AND AMERICAN YACHTS. Illustrated 
 
 with 50 Beautiful Photogravure Engravings. Oblong folio, 425. 
 BURTON (LADY ISABEL) 
 
 THE LIFE OF SIR RICHARD FRANCIS BURTON. 
 
 With Portraits, numerous Coloured and other Illustrations, and Map?. 2 vols. 
 Demy 8vo, 425. 
 
 BUTLER (A. 7.) 
 
 COURT LIFE IN EGYPT. Second Edition. Illustrated. 
 
 Large crown Svo, 123. 
 CARLYLE (THOMAS) 
 
 THE CARLYLE BIRTHDAY BOOK. Second Edition. 
 
 Small fcap. 8vo, 35. 
 CARSTENSEN (A. R/IS) 
 
 TWO SUMMERS IN GREENLAND: An Artist's 
 
 Adventures among Ice and Islands in Fjords and Mountains. With numerous 
 lllust ations by the Author. Demy 8vo, 145.
 
 BOOKS PUBLISHED BY 
 
 CHAPMAN & HALL'S SHILLING SERIES, 
 
 THE HELTER-SKELTER HOUNDS. By G. F. UNDERHILL. Crown 8vo. 
 
 HOW TO BUY A HORSE. With Hints on Shoeing and Stable Management. By 
 
 PELAGIUS. Crown 8vo. 
 IN THE SHADE OF SCHIEHALLION. By CHARLES BLATHERWICK. With 4. 
 
 Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 
 
 CYNTHIA. By CHARLES BLATHERWICK. With 4 Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 
 IN AND OUT OF THE PIGSKIN. By G. F. UNDERHILL. Crown 8vo. 
 THE CHUMPLEBUNNYS AND SOME OTHER ODDITIES. Sketched from Life. 
 
 By W. BEATTY-KINGSTON. Illustrated. Crown 8vo. 
 
 A SUBURB OF YEDO. By the late THEOBALD A. PURCELL. Illustrated. 
 ARCADIAN LIFE. By S. S. BUCKMAN, F.G.S. With lllu trations. Crown 8vo. 
 A POPPY'S TEARS. By MANNINGTON CAFFYN. 
 
 NOTCHES OM THE ROUGH EDGE OF LIFE. By LYNN CYRIL D'OYLE. 
 WE TWO AT MONTE CARLO. By ALBERT D. VANDAM. 
 WHO IS THE MAN? A Tale of the Scottish Border. By J. S. TAIT. 
 THE CHILD OF STAFFERTON. By CANON KNOX LITTLE. 
 THE BROKEN VOW. By CANON KNOX LITTLE. 
 PADDY AT HOME. By BARON E. DE MANDAT-GRANCEY. 
 
 CHARACTER IN THE FACE. Physiognomical Sketches. 
 
 Our Looks and what they mean. Crown 8vo, 55. 
 
 CHARLOTTE ELIZABETH, LIFE AND LETTERS OF, 
 
 Princess Palatine and Mother of Philippe d'Orleans, Regent of France, 1652-1722. 
 With Portraits. Demy 8vo, IDS. 6d. 
 
 CHARNA Y (DESIRE) 
 
 THE ANCIENT CITIES OF THE NEW WORLD. 
 
 Being Travels and Explorations in Mexico and Central America, 1857 1882-. 
 With upwards of 200 Illustrations. Super Royal 8vo, 315. 6d. 
 
 CHURCH (PROFESSOR A. H.), M.A. Oxon. 
 
 FOOD GRAINS OF INDIA. With numerous Woodcuts, 
 
 Small 410, 6s. 
 
 ENGLISH PORCELAIN. A Handbook to the China 
 
 made in England during the Eighteenth Century. With numerous Woodcuts. 
 Large crown 8vo, 35. 
 
 ENGLISH EARTHENWARE. A Handbook to the 
 
 Wares made in England during the I7th and i8th Centuries. With numerous- 
 Woodcuts. Large crown 8vo, 35. 
 
 PLAIN WORDS ABOUT WATER. Illustrated. Crown 
 
 8vo, sewed, 6d. 
 
 FOOD : Some Account of its Sources, Constituents, and 
 
 Uses. A New and Revised Edition. Large crown 8vo, cloth, 35. 
 
 PRECIOUS STONES : considered in their Scientific and 
 
 Artistic Relations. With a Coloured Plate and Woodcuts. Second Edition.. 
 Large crown 8vo, 2S. fid. 
 
 COBDEN, RICHARD, LIFE OF. By the RIGHT HON. JOHN 
 
 MORLEY, M.P. With Portrait. New Edition. Crown 8vo, 75. 6d. 
 
 Popular Edition, with Portrait, 4to, sewed, is.; cloth, 23. 
 
 COLLIER (THE HON. MARGARET), Madame Galetti di Cadilliac 
 
 RACHEL AND MAURICE, and OTHER TALES. 
 
 Crown 8vo, 35. 6d.
 
 CHAPMAN & HALL, LIMITED. 
 
 COLLINS ( WILKIE) and DICKENS (CHARLES) 
 
 THE LAZY TOUR OF TWO IDLE APPRENTICES. 
 
 With 8 Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 55. 
 
 ING, TRAVEL AND ADVENTURES. By BULA N'ZAU. Illustrated from 
 the Author's sketches. Demy 8vo, 145. 
 
 COOKER Y 
 
 ST. JAMES'S COOKERY BOOK. By LOUISA ROCHFORT. 
 
 Crown 8vo, 35. 6d. 
 
 DINNERS IN MINIATURE. By MRS. EARL. Crown 
 
 Svo zs. 6d. 
 
 HILDA'S "WHERE IS IT?" OF RECIPES. Contain- 
 ing many old CAPE, INDIAN, and MALAY DISHES and PRESERVES ; 
 also Directions for Polishing Furniture, Cleaning Silk, etc. ; and a Collection of 
 Home Remedies in Case of Sickness. By HILDAGONDA J. DUCKITT. Fifth 
 Thousand. Crown 8vo, 45. 6d. 
 
 THE PYTCHLEY BOOK OF REFINED COOKERY 
 
 AND BILLS OF FARE. By MAJOR L . Fifth Edition. Large crown 
 
 Svo, 8s. 
 
 BREAKFASTS, LUNCHEONS, AND BALL SUPPERS. 
 
 By MAJOR L . Crown Svo, 45. 
 
 OFFICIAL HANDBOOK OF THE NATIONAL 
 
 TRAINING SCHOOL FOR COOKERY. Containing Lessons on Cookery, 
 forming the Course of Instruction in the School. Compiled by " R. O. C." 
 Twenty-fourth Thousand. Lar?e crown Svo, 6s. 
 
 BREAKFAST AND SAVOURY DISHES. By " R. O. C." 
 
 Ninth Thousand. Crown Svo, is. 
 
 THE ROYAL CONFECTIONER : English and Foreign. 
 
 By C. E. FRANCATELLI. With Illustrations. Sixth Thousand. Crown Svo, 58. 
 COOPER-KING (LT.-COL.) 
 
 GEORGE WASHINGTON. Large crown Svo. With 
 
 Portrait and Maps. [/ tht Press. 
 
 COUP BR US (LOUIS) 
 
 ELINE VERE. Translated from the Dutch by J. T. 
 
 GREIN. Crown Svo, as. 
 COURTNEY (W. L.), M^A., LL.D., of New College, Oxford 
 
 STUDIES AT LEISURE. Crown Svo, 6s. 
 STUDIES NEW AND OLD. Crown Svo, 6s. 
 CONSTRUCTIVE ETHICS : A Review of Modern Philo- 
 
 sophy and its Three Stages of Interpretation, Criticism, and Reconstruction. 
 Demy Svo, 125. 
 CRAIK (GEORGE LILLIE) 
 
 ENGLISH OF SHAKESPEARE. Illustrated in a Philo- 
 
 logical Commentary on "Julius Csesar." Eighth Edition. Post Svo, cloth, 55. 
 
 OUTLINES OF THE HISTORY OF THE ENGLISH 
 
 LANGUAGE. Eleventh Edition. Post Svo, cloth, as. 6d. 
 CRAWFURD (OSWALD) 
 
 ROUND THE CALENDAR IN PORTUGAL. With 
 
 numerous Illustrations. Royal Svo, i8s. 
 CRIPPS (WILFRED JOSEPH), M.A., F.S.A. 
 
 COLLEGE AND CORPORATION PLATE. A Hand- 
 
 book for the Reproduction of Silver Plate. With numerous Illustrations. Large 
 crown Svo, cloth, zs. 6d.
 
 BOOKS PUBLISHED BY 
 
 CURZON (LOUIS HENRY) 
 
 A MIRROR OF THE TURF ; or, The Machinery of 
 
 Horse-racing Revealed, showing the Sport of Kings as it is to-day. Crown 8vo, 8s. 
 DAIRY FARMING 
 
 DAIRY FARMING. To which is added a Description of 
 
 the Chief Continental Systems. With numerous Illustrations. By JAMES LONG. 
 Crown 8vo, gs. 
 
 DAIRY FARMING, MANAGEMENT OF COWS, etc. 
 
 By ARTHUR ROLAND. Edited by WILLIAM ABLETT. Crown 8vo, 55. 
 DALY (J. B.), LL.D. 
 
 IRELAND IN THE DAYS OF DEAN SWIFT. C rown 8vo, 5 s. 
 DAS (DEVENDRA M) 
 
 SKETCHES OF HINDOO LIFE. Crown 8vo, 53. 
 
 DAUBOURG (.) 
 
 INTERIOR ARCHITECTURE. Doors, Vestibules, Stair- 
 
 cases, Anterooms, Drawing, Dining, and Bed Rooms, Libraries, Bank and News- 
 paper Offices, Shop Fronts and Interiors. Half-imperial, cloth, 2 125. 6d. 
 
 DA VIDSON (ELLIS A.) 
 
 PRETTY ARTS FOR THE EMPLOYMENT OF 
 
 LEISURE HOURS. A Book for Ladies. With Illustrations. Demy 8vo, 6si 
 DA WSON ( WILLIAM HARBUTT)- 
 
 GERMANY AND THE GERMANS : Social Life, Culture, 
 
 Religious Life, etc., etc. In 2 vols. Demy 8vo, 265. 
 DA Y ( WILLIAMY- 
 
 THE RACEHORSE IN TRAINING, with Hints on 
 
 Racing and Racing Reform. Fifth Thousand. Demy 8vo, QS. 
 DE BOVET (MADAME) 
 
 THREE MONTHS' TOUR IN IRELAND. Translated 
 
 and Condensed by MRS. ARTHUR WALTER. With Illustrations. Crown 8vo., 6s> 
 DB CHAMPEA UX (ALFRED) 
 
 TAPESTRY. With numerous Woodcuts. Cloth, 25. 6d. 
 DB FALLOUX (THE COUNT) 
 
 MEMOIRS OF A ROYALIST. Edited by C. B. PITMAN. 
 
 2 vols. With Portraits. Demy 8vo, 325. 
 DB LESSEPS (FERDINAND) 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF FORTY YEARS. 2 vols. 
 
 Demy 8vo, 245. 
 DELILLE (EDWARD) 
 
 SOME FRENCH WRITERS. Crown 8vo, 55. 
 
 Contents : Bourget, Pierre Loti, Baudelaire, Guy de Maupassant, Verlaine, 
 Maurice Barres, &c. 
 
 DE LISLE (MEMOIR OF LIEUTENANT RUDOLPH), 
 
 R.N., of the Naval Brigade. By the Rev. H. N. OXENHAM, M.A. Third 
 Edition. Crown 8vo, 75. 6d. 
 DB MANDAT-GRANCEY (BARON E.) 
 
 PADDY AT HOME; OR, IRELAND AND THE IRISH AT 
 
 THE PRESENT TIME, AS SEEN BY A FRENCHMAN. Fifth Edition. Crown 8vo, is. ; 
 in cloth, is. 6d. 
 
 DB WINDT (H.) 
 
 SIBERIA AS IT IS. With numerous Illustrations. 
 
 Demy 8vo, i8s.
 
 CHAPMAN &- HALL, LIMITED. 
 
 DE W1NDT (H.) continued 
 
 FROM PEKIN TO CALAIS BY LAND. With nume- 
 
 rous Illustrations by C. E. FRIPP from. Sketches by the Author. New and Cheaper 
 Edition. 75. 6d. 
 
 A RIDE TO INDIA ACROSS PERSIA AND BELU- 
 
 CHISTAN. With numerous Illustrations. Demy 8vo, i6s. 
 DICKENS (CHARLES) 
 
 THE CHARLES DICKENS BIRTHDAY BOOK. 
 
 With Five Illustrations. In a handsome fcap. 410 volume, izs. 
 
 THE HUMOUR AND PATHOS OF CHARLES 
 
 DICKENS. By CHARLES KENT. With Portrait. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 THE DICKENS DICTIONARY. A Key to the Charac- 
 
 ters and Principal Incidents in the Tales of Charles Dickens. New Edition. 
 Large crown 8vo, $s. 
 
 DICKENS (MARY A.) 
 
 CROSS CURRENTS : a Novel. Third Thousand. Crown 
 
 8vo, 35. 6d. In boards, 23. 
 DILKE (LADY) 
 
 ART IN THE MODERN STATE. With Facsimile. 
 
 Demy 8vo, gs. 
 DIN ART E (SYLVIO} 
 
 INNOCENCIA : A Story of the Prairie Regions of Brazil. 
 
 Translated from the Portuguese and Illustrated by JAMES W. WHLLS, F.R.G.S. 
 Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 DIXON (CHARLES) 
 
 THE NESTS AND EGGS OF NON-INDIGENOUS 
 
 BRITISH BIRDS. [In tht Press. 
 
 THE NESTS AND EGGS OF BRITISH BIRDS: 
 
 When and Where to Find Them. Being a Handbook to the Oology of the British 
 Islands. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 ** A Large Paper Edition, containing 157 Coloured Illustrations, Demy Svo, i$s. net. 
 
 JOTTINGS ABOUT BIRDS. With coloured Frontis- 
 
 piece by J. SMIT. Crjwn 8vo, 6;. 
 
 THE GAME BIRDS AND WILD FOWL OF THE 
 
 BRITISH ISLANDS. Illusirated by A. T. ELWES. Demy 8vo, i8s. 
 
 THE MIGRATION OF BIRDS : An Attempt to Reduce 
 
 the Avian Season-flight to Law. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 THE BIRDS OF OUR RAMBLES : A Companion 
 
 for the Country. With Illustrations by A. T. ELWES. Large Crown 8vo, 75. 6d. 
 
 IDLE HOURS WITH NATURE. With Frontispiece. 
 
 Crown Svo, 6s. 
 
 ANNALS OF BIRD LIFE: A Year-Book of British 
 
 Ornithology. With Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 75. 6d. 
 DOUGLAS (JOHN) 
 
 SKETCH OF THE FIRST PRINCIPLES OF PHYSIO- 
 
 GRAPHY. With Maps and numerous Illustrations. Crown Svo, 6s. 
 DRA YSON (MAJOR-GENERAL A. W.) 
 
 THIRTY THOUSAND YEARS OF THE EARTH'S 
 
 PAST HISTORY. Large Crown Svo, 5*. 
 
 EXPERIENCES OF A WOOLWICH PROFESSOR 
 
 during Fifteen Years at the Royal Military Academy. Demy Svo, 8s. 
 DUCK ITT (HILDAGONDA J.) 
 
 HILDA'S "WHERE IS IT?" OF RECIPES. Contain- 
 
 ing many old CAPE, INDIAN, and MALAY DISHES and PRESERVES; 
 also Directions for Polishing Furniture, Cleaning Silk, etc. Fifth Thou.and 
 Crown Svo, 45. 6d.
 
 io BOOKS PUBLISHED BY 
 
 DUCO UDRA Y (GUST A VE} 
 
 THE HISTORY OF ANCIENT CIVILISATION. A 
 
 Handbook based upon M. Gustave Ducoudray s " Histoire Sommaire de la 
 Civilisation. ' Edited by REV. J. VERSCHOYLE, M.A. With Illustrations. Large 
 crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 THE HISTORY OF MODERN CIVILISATION. With 
 
 Illustrations. Large crown 8vo, gs. 
 DYCE (WILLIAM}, R.A. 
 
 DRAWING-BOOK OF THE GOVERNMENT SCHOOL 
 
 OF DESIGN. Fifty selected Plates. Folio, sewed, 53. ; mounted, i8s. 
 
 ELEMENTARY OUTLINES OF ORNAMENT. Plates I. 
 
 to XXII., containing 97 Examples, adapted for Practice of Standards I, to IV. 
 Small folio, sewed, zs. 6d. 
 
 SELECTION FROM DYCE'S DRAWING BOOK, 
 
 15 Plates, sewed, is. 6d.; mounted on cardboard, 6s. 6d. 
 
 TEXT TO ABOVE. Crown 8vo, sewed, 6d. 
 
 EARL (MRS.} 
 
 DINNERS IN MINIATURE. Crown 8vo, 2S . 6d. 
 
 EDWARDS (MJ?S. SUTHERLAND} 
 
 THE SECRET OF THE PRINCESS. A Tale of 
 
 Country, Camp, Court, Convict, and Cloister Life in Russia. Crown 8vo, 35. fid. 
 ELLIOT (FRANCES MINTO} 
 
 OLD COURT LIFE IN SPAIN. 2 Vols. Demy 8vo, 245. 
 
 ELLIS (A. B., Colonel ist West India Regiment} 
 
 THE YORUBA - SPEAKING PEOPLES OF THE 
 
 SLAVE COAST OF WEST AFRICA: their Religion, Manners, Customs, 
 Laws, Language, &c. With an Appendix and Map. Demy 8vo, los. 6d. 
 
 HISTORY OF THE GOLD COAST OF WEST 
 
 AFRICA. Demy 8vo, IDS. 6d. 
 
 THE EWE-SPEAKING PEOPLE OF THE SLAVE 
 
 COAST OF WEST AFRICA. With Map. Demy 8vo, los. 6d. 
 
 THE TSHI-SPEAKING PEOPLES OF THE GOLD 
 
 COAST : their Religion, Manners, Customs, Laws, Language, &c. With Map. 
 Demy 8vo, los. 6d. 
 
 SOUTH AFRICAN SKETCHES. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 EN GEL (CARL} 
 
 MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS. With numerous Woodcuts. 
 
 Large crown 8vo, cloth, 25. 6d. 
 
 ENGLISHMAN IN PARIS: NOTES AND RECOLLEC- 
 TIONS DURING THE REIGN OF LOUIS PHILIPPE AND THE 
 EMPIRE. Eighth Thousand. Crown 8vo, 75. 6d. 
 
 ESCOTT (T. H. S.} 
 
 POLITICS AND LETTERS. Demy 8vo, 93. 
 ENGLAND : ITS PEOPLE, POLITY, AND PURSUITS. 
 
 New and Revised Edition. Eighth Thousand. Demy 8vo, 35. fid. 
 
 EUROPEAN POLITICS, THE PRESENT POSITION OF. 
 
 By the Author of "Greater Britain." Demy 8vo, 125. 
 FANE (VIOLET} 
 
 AUTUMN SONGS. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 THE STORY OF HELEN DAVENANT. Crown 8vo. 
 
 In boards, as. 
 FIELD (HENRY M.} 
 
 GIBRALTAR. With numerous Illustrations. Demy 8vo, 
 
 75. 6d.
 
 CHAPMAN & HALL, LIMITED. 
 
 F1SKE (JOHN) 
 
 LIFE AND LETTERS OF EDWARD LIVINGSTONE 
 
 YOUMANS. Comprising Correspondence with Spencer, Huxley, Tyndall, and 
 others. Crown 8vo, 8s. 
 FITZGERALD (PERCY), F.S.A. 
 
 HENRY IRVING : A Record of Twenty Years at the 
 
 Lyceum. With Portrait. Demy 8vo, 145. 
 
 CHRONICLES OF BOW STREET POLICE OFFICE. 
 
 New and Cheaper Edition. 
 
 THE HISTORY OF PICKWICK. An Account of its 
 
 Characters, Localities, Allusions, and Illustrations. With a Bibliography. Demy 
 FLEMING (GEORGE), F.R.C.S. 
 
 ANIMAL PLAGUES: THEIR HISTORY, NATURE, 
 
 AND PREVENTION. 8vo, cloth, i S s. 
 
 PRACTICAL HORSE-SHOEING. With 37 Illustrations. 
 
 Fifth Edition, enlarged. 8vo, sewed, 25. 
 
 RABIES AND HYDROPHOBIA: THEIR HISTORY, 
 
 NATURE, CAUSES, SYMPTOMS, AND PREVENTION. With 8 lUustra- 
 tions. 8vo, cloth, 155. 
 FORSTER (JOHN) 
 
 THE LIFE OF CHARLES DICKENS. Original 
 
 Edition. Vol. I., 8vo, cloth, 125. c II., 8vo, cloth, 145. Vol. III., 8vo, cloth, 
 1 6s. 
 
 Uniform with the Illustrated Library Edition of Dickens's 
 
 Works. 2 vnls. Demy 8vo, 205. 
 
 Uniform with the " C. D." Edition. With Numerous 
 
 Illustrations. 2 vols. 75. 
 
 Uniform with the Crown Edition. Crown 8vo, 55. 
 Uniform with the Household Edition. With Illustrations 
 
 by F. BARNARD. Crown 410, cloth, 55. 
 
 Uniform with the Pictorial Edition. With 40 Illustrations by 
 
 F. BARNARD and others. Royal 8vo, 35. 6d 
 
 FORSTER, THE LIFE OF THE RIGHT HON. W. E. 
 
 By T. WEMYSS REID. With Portraits. Fourth Edition. 2 vols. Demy 8vo, 325. 
 FIFTH EDITION, in one volume, with new Portrait. DemySvo, IDS. 6d. 
 FORSYTH (CAPTAIN) 
 
 THE HIGHLANDS OF CENTRAL INDIA : Notes on 
 
 their Forests and Wild Tribes, Natural History and Sports. With Map and 
 Coloured Illustrations. A New Edition. Demy 8vo, 125. 
 FORTNUM (C. D. E.), F.S.A. 
 
 MAIOLICA. With numerous Woodcuts. Large crown 
 
 8vo, cloth, 2S. 6d. 
 
 BRONZES. With numerous Woodcuts. Large crown 
 
 8vo, cloth, 2s. 6d. 
 FOSTER (ALBERT /.), M.A. 
 
 ROUND ABOUT THE CROOKED SPIRE. With 
 
 Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 55. 
 FOUQUH (DE LA MOTTE) 
 
 UNDINE : a Romance translated from the German. With 
 
 an Introduction by JULIA CARTWRIGHT. Illustrated by HKVWOOD SUMNKR. 
 Crown 410, 55. 
 PRANCATELLI (C. E.) 
 
 THE ROYAL CONFECTIONER: English and Foreign. 
 
 A Practical Treatise. With Illustrations. Sixth Thousand. Crown 8vo, 55. 
 FRANKS (A. W.Y- 
 
 JAPANESE POTTERY. Being a Native Report, with an 
 
 Introduction and Catalogue. With numerous Illustrations and Marks. Large 
 crown 8vo, cloth, as. 6d.
 
 12 BOOKS PUBLISHED BY 
 
 FROBEL, FRIEDRICH ; a Short Sketch of his Life, including 
 
 Frobel's Letters from Dresden and Leipzig to his Wife now first Translated into 
 English. By EMILY SHIRREFF. Crown Svo, 25. 
 GALLBNGA (ANTONIO) 
 
 ITALY: PRESENT AND FUTURE. 2vols. Dmy.8vo,2is. 
 GARDNER (/. STARKIE} 
 
 IRONWORK. From the Earliest Time to the End of the 
 
 Mediaeval Period. With yj Illustrations. Large crown 8vo, 35. 
 GASNAULT (PAUL) and GARNIER (ED.) 
 
 FRENCH POTTERY. With Illustrations and Marks. 
 
 Large crown 8vo, 35. 
 G1LLMORE (PARKER) 
 
 THE HUNTER'S ARCADIA. With numerous Illustra- 
 
 tions. Demy 8vo, los. fid. 
 
 GIRL'S LIFE EIGHTY YEARS AGO (A). Selections from 
 
 the Letters of Eliza Sputhgate Bowne, with an Introduction by Clarence Cook. 
 Illustrated with Portraits and Views. Crown 410, i2S. 
 GLE1CHEN (COUNT) 
 
 WITH THE CAMEL CORPS UP THE NILE. With 
 
 numerous Sketches by the Author. Third Edition. Large crown 8vo, gs. 
 GORDON (GENERAL) 
 
 LETTERS FROM THE CRIMEA, THE DANUBE, 
 
 AND ARMENIA. Edited by DEMETRIUS C; BOULGER. Second Editionl 
 Crown 8vo, 55. 
 GORST (SIR 7. .), Q.C., M.P. 
 
 AN ELECTION MANUAL. Containing the Parlia- 
 
 mentary Elections (Corrupt and Illegal Practices) Act, 1883, with Notes. Third 
 Edition. Crown Svo, is. 6d. 
 GOWER(A. R.), Royal School of Mines 
 
 PRACTICAL METALLURGY. With Illustrations. Crown 
 
 8vo, 35. 
 GRESWELL (WILLIAM), M.A., F.R.C.L 
 
 OUR SOUTH AFRICAN EMPIRE. With Map. 2 vols. 
 
 Crown Svo, 215. 
 GREVILLE-NUGENT (THE HON. MRS.) 
 
 A LAND OF MOSQUES AND MARABOUTS. Illus- 
 
 trated. Demy Svo, i4s. 
 GRIFFIN (SIR LEPEL HENRY), K.C.S.I. 
 
 THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Second Edition. Crown Svo, 
 
 45. 6d. 
 GRIFFITHS (MAJOR ARTHUR), H.M. Inspector of Prisons 
 
 SECRETS OF THE PRISON HOUSE. With numerous 
 
 Illustrations by GEORGE D. ROWLANDSON. 2 vols. Demy 8vo, 305. 
 
 FRENCH REVOLUTIONARY GENERALS. Large 
 
 crown Svo, 6s. 
 GRIMBLE (A.) 
 
 SHOOTING AND SALMON FISHING : HINTS AND 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS. Second Edition. With Illustrations. Demy Svo, i6s. 
 GUN DRY (R. S.) 
 
 CHINA AND HER NEIGHBOURS. France in Indo- 
 
 China, Russia and China, India and Thibet, &c. With Maps. Demy Svo, gs. 
 
 GUN, RIFLE, AND HOUND IN THE EAST AND WEST. 
 
 BY " SNAFFLE." With Illustrations. Crown Svo. [In tkt Press. 
 
 HALL (SIDNEY) 
 
 A TRAVELLING ATLAS OF THE ENGLISH COUN- 
 
 TIES. Fifty Maps, coloured. New Edition, including the Railways, corrected 
 up to the present date. Deiny Svo, in roan tuck, los. 6d.
 
 CHAPMAN &> HALL, LIMITED. 13 
 
 HARPER (CHARLES G.) 
 
 A PRACTICAL HANDBOOK OF DRAWING, for 
 
 modern methods of Reproduction, with many Illustrations showing comparative 
 results. Crown Svo, ys. 6d. 
 HARRIS (FRANK) 
 
 ELDER CONKLIN, and Other Stories. Crown Svo. 
 
 HARRISON (JOHN) [/ the Pi ess. 
 
 THE DECORATION OF METALS, CHASING, 
 
 REPOUSSE AND SAW PIERCING. With 180 Illustrations. Cr. Svo, 35. 6d. 
 HARTINGTON (EDWARD) 
 
 THE NEW ACADEME: An Educational Romance. 
 
 Crown Svo, 53. 
 HATTON (RICHARD G.), Durham College of Science, Newcastle-on-Tyne 
 
 ELEMENTARY DESIGN: being a Theoretical and 
 
 Practical Introduction in the Art of Decoration. With 1 10 Illustrations. Crown 
 8vo, 2S. 6d. Science and Art Series. 
 HAWKINS (FREDERICA) 
 
 THE FRENCH STAGE IN THE EIGHTEENTH 
 
 CENTURY. With Portraits. 2 vols. Demy Svo, 308. 
 
 ANNALS OF THE FRENCH STAGE: FROM ITS 
 
 ORIGIN TO THE DEATH OF RACINE. 4 Portraits. 2 vols. Demy Svo, aSs. 
 H1LDEBRAND (HANS) 
 
 INDUSTRIAL ARTS OF SCANDINAVIA IN THE 
 
 PAGAN TIME. With numerous Woodcuts. Large crown Svo, as. 6<L 
 HILL (MISS G.) 
 
 THE PLEASURES AND PROFITS OF OUR LITTLE 
 
 POULTRY FARM. Small Svo, as. 
 HOLBEIN 
 
 TWELVE HEADS AFTER HOLBEIN. Selected from 
 
 Drawings in Her Majesty's Collection at Windsor. Reproduced in Autotype, in 
 portfolio. i 1 6s. 
 HOLMES (GEORGE C. V.}, Secretary of the Institution of Naval Architects 
 
 NAVAL ARCHITECTURE AND SHIP BUILDING. 
 
 [/ the Press. 
 
 MARINE ENGINES AND BOILERS. With Sixty-nine 
 
 Woodcuts. Large crown Svo, 35. 
 HOPE (ANDREE} 
 
 THE VYVYANS ; or, The Murder in the Rue Bellechasse. 
 
 Crown Svo, 35. 6d. 
 
 CHRONICLES OF AN OLD INN; or, a Few Words 
 
 about Gray's Inn. Crown Svo, 55. 
 HOUSSAYE (ARSENE) , 
 
 BEHIND THE SCENES OF THE COMEDIE FRAN- 
 
 CAISE, AND OTHER RECOLLECTIONS. Translated from the French. 
 Demy Svo, 143. 
 
 WHENCE OF LANGUAGE: LINGUISTICS, 
 
 PHILOLOGY, AND ETYMOLOGY. WithMaps. Large crown Svo, cloth, 35. 6d. 
 
 HOW TO BUY A HORSE. With Hints on Shoeing and 
 
 Stable Management. By PELAGIUS. Crown Svo, is. 
 HOZIER (H. A/.) 
 
 TURENNE. With Portrait and Two Maps. Large crown 
 
 HUDSON\ W. H.), C.M.Z.S. Joint Author of " Argentine Ornithology" 
 
 BIRDS IN A VILLAGE. Square crown Svo, 75. 6d. 
 IDLE DAYS IN PATAGONIA. With numerous Illustra- 
 tions by J. SMIT and A. HARTLEY. Demy Svo, 145. 
 
 THE NATURALIST IN LA PLATA. With numerous 
 
 Illustrations by I- SMIT. Second Edition. Demy Svo, i6s.
 
 14 BOOKS PUBLISHED BY 
 
 HUEFFER (F.) 
 
 HALF A CENTURY OF MUSIC IN ENGLAND 
 
 18371887. Demy 8vo, 8s. 
 HUGHES (W. R.), F.L.S. 
 
 A WEEK'S TRAMP IN DICKENS -LAND. With 
 
 upwards of 100 Illustrations by F. G. KITTON, HERBERT RAILTON, and others. 
 Second Edition. Demy 8vo, 75. 6d. 
 HUNTLY (MARQUIS OF] 
 
 TRAVELS, SPORTS, AND POLITICS IN THE EAST 
 
 OF EUROPE. With Illustrations. Large Crown 8vo, 123. 
 HUTCH1NSON (REV, H. N.), F.G.S. 
 
 CREATURES OF OTHER DAYS. With a Preface by 
 
 SIR W. H. FLOWEP, K.C.B., F.R.S., and numerous Illustrations by J. SMIT 
 and others Large Demy 8vo, 14^. 
 
 EXTINCT MONSTERS. A Popular Account of some of 
 
 the larger forms of Ancient Animal Life. With numerous Illustrations by J.- SMIT 
 and others. Third Thousand, Revised and Enlarged. Demy 8vo, 125. 
 
 INDUSTRIAL ARTS: Historical Sketches. With numerous 
 
 Illustrations. Large crown 8vo, 35. 
 
 IRVING, HENRY. A Record of Twenty Years at the Lyceum. 
 
 By PERCY FITZGERALD, M.A., F.S.A. With Portrait. Demy 8vo, 145. 
 JACKSON (FRANK G. ), Master in the Birmingham Municipal School of Art 
 
 THEORY AND PRACTICE OF DESIGN: An Advanced 
 
 Text Book on Decorative Art. With 700 Illustrations Large Crown 8vo, 95. 
 
 DECORATIVE DESIGN. An Elementary Text Book of 
 
 Principles and Practice. With numerous Illustrations. Second Edition. Crown 
 8vo, 75. fid. 
 
 JAMES (HENRY A.), M.A. 
 
 HANDBOOK TO PERSPECTIVE. Crown 8vo, 25. 6d 
 PERSPECTIVE CHARTS, for use in Class Teaching, as. 
 
 JEAFFRESON (J. CORDY), B.A. 
 
 MIDDLESEX COUNTY RECORDS. Indictments, Re- 
 
 cogt izances, Coroners' Inquisitions Post Mortem, Orders, Memoranda, and Cer- 
 tificates of Convictors of Con vent iclers, temp. 19 Charles II. to 4 James II. 4 vols. 
 With Portraits, Illustration', and Facsimiles. Demy 8vo, 253. each. 
 JEANS (W. T.) 
 
 CREATORS OF THE AGE OF STEEL. Memoirs of 
 
 Sir W. Siemens, Sir H. Bessemer, Sir J. Whitworth, Sir J. Brown, and other 
 Inventors. Second Edition. Crown 8vo, 73. fid. 
 JOKA I (MA UR US) 
 
 PRETTY MICHAL. Translated by R. NISBET BAIN. 
 
 Crown 8vo. New Edition, 25. 
 
 'MIDST THE WILD CARPATHIANS. Translated by 
 
 R. NISBET BAIN. Crown 8vo, 35. fid. 
 J OP LING (LOUISE) 
 
 HINTS TO AMATEURS. A Handbook on Art. With 
 
 Diagrams. Crown 8vo, is. 6d. 
 JUNKER (DR. WM.)- 
 
 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Translated from the German 
 
 by Professor KEANE. 
 
 Vol. I. DURING the YEARS 1875 to 1878. Containing 38 Full-page Plates 
 
 and 125 Illustrations in the Text and Map. Demy 8vo, ais. 
 Vol. II. DURING the YEARS 1879 to 1883. Containing numerous Full-page 
 
 Plates, and Illustrations in the Text and Map. Demy 8vo, 2is. 
 Vol. III. DURING the YEARS 1882 to 1886. Containing numerous Full-page 
 
 Plates and Illustrations in the Text and Maps. Demy !vo, 2is.
 
 CHAPMAN &> HALL, LIMITED. 15 
 
 KELLY (JAMES FITZMAURICE) 
 
 THE LIFE OF MIGUEL DE CERVANTES 
 
 SAAVEDRA : A Biographical, Literary, and Historical Study, with a Tentative 
 Bibliography from 1585 to 1892, and an Annotated Appendix on the "Canto de 
 Caliope." Demy 8vo, i6s. 
 
 KEMPT (ROBERT) 
 
 CONVIVIAL CALEDONIA: Inns and Taverns of 
 
 Scotland, and some Famous People who hare frequented them. By ROBERT 
 KEMI-T. Crown Svo, 25. 6d. 
 
 KENNARD (EDWARD) 
 
 NORWEGIAN SKETCHES : FISHING IN STRANGE 
 
 WATERS. Illustrated with 30 beautiful Sketches. Second Edition. 145. 
 KENNARD (H. MARTYN) 
 
 PHILISTINES AND ISRAELITES: A New Light on the 
 
 World's History. Demy 410, 6s. 
 KING (LIEUT.-COL. COOPER) 
 
 GEORGE WASHINGTON. Large crown Svo. i/ntkPrtu. 
 LACORDAIRE (PERE) 
 
 JESUS CHRIST; GOD; AND GOD AND MAN. 
 
 Conferences delivered at Notre Dame in Paris. Seventh Thousand. Crown Svo, 
 35. 6d. 
 LA1NG (S.) 
 
 HUMAN ORIGINS: EVIDENCE FROM HISTORY 
 
 AND SCIENCE. With Illustrations. Twelfth Thousand. D,my 8vo, 35. 6d. 
 
 PROBLEMS OF THE FUTURE AND ESSAYS. 
 
 Thirteenth Thousand. Demy Svo, 35. 6d. 
 
 MODERN SCIENCE AND MODERN THOUGHT. 
 
 Nineteenth Thousand. Demy Svo, 35. 6d. 
 
 A MODERN ZOROASTRIAN. Eighth Thousand. 
 
 Demy Svo, 35. 6d. 
 LAMENNAIS (F.) 
 
 WORDS OF A BELIEVER, and THE PAST AND 
 
 FUTURE OF THE PEOPLE. Translated from the French by L. E. 
 MARTINEAU. With a Memoir of Lamennais. Crown Svo, 45. 
 
 LANDOR (W. S.) 
 
 LIFE AND WORKS. 8 vols. 
 
 VOL. i. Out of print. 
 
 VOL'. 3'. CONVERSATIONS OF SOVEREIGNS AND STATESMEN, AND 
 
 FIVE DIALOGUES OF BOCCACCIO AND PETRARCA. 
 
 Demy Svo, 145. 
 
 VOL. 4. DIALOGUES OF LITERARY MEN. Demy Svo, 145. 
 VOL. 5. DIALOGUES OF LITERARY MEN (continued). FAMOUS 
 
 WOMEN. LETTERS OF PERICLES AND ASPASIA. And 
 
 Minor Prose Pieces. Demy Svo 143. 
 
 VOL. 6. MISCELLANEOUS CONVERSATIONS. Demy Svo, 148. 
 VOL. 7. GEBIR, ACTS AND SCENES AND HELLENICS. Poems. 
 
 VOL. 8. MISCELLANEOUS POEMS AND CRITICISMS ON THEO- 
 CRITUS, CATULLUS, AND PETRARCH. Demy Svo, 145. 
 LAN IN (E. D.)- 
 
 RUSSIAN CHARACTERISTICS. Reprinted, with 
 
 Revisions, from The Fortnightly Review. Demy Svo, 145. 
 LAVELEYE (EMILE DE) 
 
 THE ELEMENTS OF POLITICAL ECONOMY. 
 
 Translated by W. POLLARD, B.A., St. John's College, Oxford. Crown Svo, 6s.
 
 1 6 BOOKS PUBLISHED BY 
 
 LE CONTE (JOSEPH), Professor of Geology and Natural History in the Uni- 
 versity of California 
 
 EVOLUTION: ITS NATURE, ITS EVIDENCES, 
 
 AND ITS RELATIONS TO RELIGIOUS THOUGHT. A New and 
 Revised Edition. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 LEFEVRE (ANDRE) 
 
 PHILOSOPHY, Historical and Critical. Translated, with 
 
 an Introduction, by A. W. KKANK, B.A. Large crown 8vo, 35. 6d. 
 LE ROUX (H.\ 
 
 ACROBATS AND MOUNTEBANKS. With over 200 
 
 Illustrations by J. GARNIKR. Royal 8vo, i6s. 
 LEROY-BEAULIEU (ANATOLE) 
 
 PAPACY, SOCIALISM, AND DEMOCRACY. By 
 
 ANATOLE LEROY-BEAULIEU, Member ol the Institute of France. Translated by 
 Professor B. L. O'DoNNELL. Crown Svo, 75. fid. 
 LESLIE (J?. C.) 
 
 A WATERBIOGRAPHY. With Illustrations by the 
 
 Author. Crown Svo. 
 
 THE SEA BOAT: HOW TO BUILD, RIG, AND 
 
 SAIL HER. With numerous Illustrations by the Author. Crown 8vo, 45. 6d. 
 
 LIFE ABOARD A BRITISH PRIVATEER IN THE 
 
 TIME OF QUEEN ANNE. Being the Journals of Captain Woodes Rogers, 
 Master Mariner. With Notes and Illustrations by ROBERT C. LESLIE. A New 
 and Cheaper Edition. Large crown Svo, 35. fid. 
 
 A SEA PAINTER'S LOG. With 1 2 Full-page Illustrations 
 
 by the Author. Large crown Svo, 125. 
 LBTOURNEAU (DR. CHARLES) 
 
 SOCIOLOGY. Based upon Ethnology. Large crown 
 
 8vo, 35. fid. 
 
 BIOLOGY. With 83 Illustrations. A New Edition. 
 
 Demy Svo, 35. fid. 
 LILLY(W. .) 
 
 THE CLAIMS OF CHRISTIANITY. Demy Svo, 123. 
 
 ON SHIBBOLETHS. Demy Svo, 125. 
 
 ON RIGHT AND WRONG. Second Edition. Demy 
 
 A CENTURY OF REVOLUTION. Second Edition. 
 CHAPTER^ ON EUROPEAN HISTORY. With an 
 
 Introductory Dialogue on the Philosophy of History. 2 vols. Demy Svo, 2is. 
 
 ANCIENT RELIGION AND MODERN THOUGHT/ 
 
 Second Edition. Demv Svo, 125. 
 LIN EH AM (MRS. RAY S.) 
 
 THE STREET OF HUMAN HABITATIONS. Fully 
 
 Illustrated. Crown Svo, 6s. Science and Art Series. 
 
 LIN EH AM ( WILFRID /.), Member of the Institute of Mechanical Engineers, 
 &c., &c. 
 
 A TEXT-BOOK OF MECHANICAL ENGINEERING. 
 
 Fully Illustrated with Cuts and Diagrams Crown Svo. [fn the Press. 
 
 LITTLE (THE REV. CANON KNOX) 
 
 THE WAIF FROM THE WAVES : a Story of Three 
 
 Lives, touching this World and another. Fifth Thousand. Crown Svo, 3s. 6d. 
 
 THE CHILD OF STAFFERTON : A Chapter from a 
 
 Family Chronicle. Twelfth Thousand. Crown Svo, boards, is.; cloth, is. 6d. 
 
 THE BROKEN VOW. A Story of Here and Hereafter. 
 
 Eighteenth Thousand. Crown Svo, boards, is. cloth, is. 6d.
 
 CHAPMAN &> HALL, LIMITED, 17 
 
 LLOYD (W. W.\ late 24^ Regiment 
 
 ON ACTIVE SERVICE. Printed in Colours. Oblong 
 SKETCHES OF INDIAN LIFE. Printed in Colours. 
 
 4to, 6s. 
 LONG (JAMES} 
 
 DAIRY FARMING. To which is added a Description of 
 
 the Chief Continental Systems. With numerous Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 95. 
 LO W ( WILLIAM} 
 
 TABLE DECORATION. With 19 Full Illustrations, 
 
 Demy 8vo, 6s. 
 M'DERMOTT (P. L.} 
 
 BRITISH EAST AFRICA. A History of the Formation 
 
 and Work of the Imperial British East Africa Company. Compiled with the 
 Authority of the Directors from Official Documents and the Records of the 
 Company. With Maps and Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 MACDONALD (A. F.} 
 
 OUR OCEAN RAILWAYS ; or, The Rise, Progress, and 
 
 Development of Ocean Steam Navigation, etc., etc. With Maps and Illustrations. 
 Large crown 8vo, 6s. 
 McCOAN (J. C.) 
 
 EGYPT UNDER ISMAIL: a Romance of History. 
 
 With Portrait and Appendix of Official Documents. Crown 8vo, 75. 6d. 
 MALLESON (COL. G. B.}, C.S.I. 
 
 THE LIFE OF WARREN HASTINGS. vtkcPm*. 
 PRINCE EUGENE OF SAVOY. With Portrait and 
 
 Maps. Large crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 LOUDON. A Sketch of the Military Life of Gideon 
 
 Ernest, Freicherr von Louden. With Portrait and Maps. Large crown 8vo, 45. 
 MALLET (ROBERT} 
 
 PRACTICAL MANUAL OF CHEMICAL ASSAYING, 
 
 as applied to the Manufacture of Iron. By L. L. DK KONINCK and E. DIETZ. 
 Edited, with notes, by ROBERT MALLBT. Post 8vo, cloth, 6s. 
 MALLOCK (W. H.} 
 
 A HUMAN DOCUMENT. Sixth Thousand. Crown 8vo, 
 
 3 s. 6d. 
 MARCEAU (SERGENT} 
 
 . REMINISCENCES OF A REGICIDE. Edited from 
 
 the Original MSS. of SERGENT MARCEAU, Member of the Convention, and 
 Administrator of Police in the French Revolution of 1789. By M. C. M. SIMPSON. 
 Demy 8vo, with Illustrations and Portraits, 145. 
 MASKELL (ALFRED} 
 
 RUSSIAN ART AND ART OBJECTS IN RUSSIA. 
 
 A Handbook to the Reproduction of Goldsmiths' Work and other Art Treasures. 
 With Illustrations. Large crown 8vo, 45. 6d. 
 MASKELL ( WILLIAM} 
 
 IVORIES : ANCIENT AND MEDIAEVAL. With nume- 
 
 rous Woodcuts. Large crown 8vo, cloth, 25. 6d. 
 
 HANDBOOK TO THE DYCE AND FORSTER COL- 
 LECTIONS. With Illustrations. Large crown 8vo, cloth, 25. 6d. 
 MASPERO (G.), late Director of Arcfueology in Egypt, and Member of the 
 
 IlT^ANCIENT EGYPT AND ASSYRIA. 
 
 Translated by A. P. MORTON. With 188 Illustrations. Third Thousand. Crown 
 8vo, 55. 
 
 B
 
 18 BOOKS PUBLISHED BY 
 
 GEORGE MEREDITH'S WORKS. 
 
 LORD ORMONT AND HIS AMINTA. 3 Vols., 313. 6d. 
 
 A Uniform Edition. Crown Svo, %s. 6d. each. 
 ONE OF OUR CONQUERORS, 
 DIANA OF THE CROSSWAYS. 
 EVAN HARRINGTON. 
 
 THE ORDEAL OF RICHARD FEVEREL. 
 THE ADVENTURES OF HARRY RICHMOND. 
 SANDRA BELLONI. 
 VITTORIA. 
 RHODA FLEMING. 
 BEAUCHAMP'S CAREER. 
 THE EGOIST. 
 
 THE SHAVING OF SHAGPAT; AND FARINA. 
 The 6s. Edition is also to be had. 
 
 MILLS (JOHN), formerly Assistant to the Solar Physics Committee 
 
 ADVANCED PHYSIOGRAPHY (PHYSIOGRAPHIC 
 
 ASTRONOMY). Designed to meet the Requirements of Students preparing for 
 the Elementary and Advanced Stages of Physiography in the Science and Art 
 Department Examinations, and as an Introduction to Physical Astronomy. 
 Crown 8vo, 45. 6d. 
 
 ELEMENTARY PHYSIOGRAPHIC ASTRONOMY. 
 
 Crown 8vo. is. 6d. 
 
 ALTERNATIVE ELEMENTARY PHYSICS. Crown 
 
 8vo, 2S. 6d. 
 MILLS (JOHN] and NORTH (BARKER) 
 
 QUANTITATIVE ANALYSIS (INTRODUCTORY 
 
 LESSONS ON). With numerous Woodcuts. Crown 8vo, is. 6d. 
 
 HANDBOOK OF QUANTITATIVE ANALYSIS. Crown 
 
 8vo, 35. 6d. 
 MITRE (GENERAL DON BARTOLOME) 
 
 THE EMANCIPATION OF SOUTH AMERICA. Being 
 
 a Condensed Translation, by WILLIAM PILLING, of "The History of San Martin." 
 Demy 8vo, with Maps, 125. 
 
 MOLES WORTH (W. NASSAU) 
 
 HISTORY OF ENGLAND FROM THE YEAR 1830 
 
 TO THE RESIGNATION OF THE GLADSTONE MINISTRY, 1874. 
 Twelfth Thousand, svols. Crown 8vo, 1 8s. 
 
 MOLTKE (FIELD-MARSHAL COUNT VON) 
 
 POLAND: AN HISTORICAL SKETCH. With Bio- 
 
 graphical Notice by E. S. BUCHHEIM, Crown 8vo, is.
 
 CHAPMAN &> HALL, LIMITED. 19 
 
 MOOREHEAD (WARREN K.) 
 
 WANNETA, THE SIOUX. With Illustrations from Life. 
 
 Large crown 8vo, 6s. 
 M OR LEY (THE RIGHT HON. JOHN), M.P. 
 
 RICHARD COBDEN'S LIFE AND CORRESPON- 
 DENCE. Crown 8vo, with Portrait, 75. 6d. 
 
 Popular Edition. With Portrait. 4to, sewed, is. Cloth, 25. 
 
 MURRAY (ANDREW), F.L.S. 
 
 ECONOMIC ENTOMOLOGY. APTERA. With nume- 
 
 rous Illustrations. Large crown 8vo, 35. 6d. 
 NECKER (MADAME) 
 
 THE SALON OF MADAME NECKER. By VICOMTE 
 
 D'HAUSSONVILLK. 2 vols. Crown 8vo, i8s. 
 NELSON (W. ), Organizer, Manual Instruction, Manchester School Board 
 
 WOOD-WORKING POSITIONS. Twelve Illustrations 
 
 by HERBERT COLE. Royal 4to, zs. 6d. Large size, 6s. 
 NESB1TT (ALEXANDER) 
 
 GLASS. With numerous Woodcuts. Large crown 8vo, 
 
 cloth, 2S. 6d. 
 NEWEY (H. FOSTER), Birmingham School of Art 
 
 ELEMENTARY DRAWING: A Few Suggestions for 
 
 Students and Teachers. Illustrated. Crpwn 8vo. 
 NORMAN (C. B.) 
 
 TONKIN; OR, FRANCE IN THE FAR EAST. With 
 
 Maps. Demy Svo, 145. 
 O BYRNE (ROBERT), F.R.G.S. 
 
 THE VICTORIES OF THE BRITISH ARMY IN 
 
 THE PENINSULA AND THE SOUTH OF FRANCE from 1808 to 1814. 
 An Epitome of Napier's History of the Peninsular War, and Gurwood's Collection 
 of the Duke of Wellington's Despatches. Crown Svo, 55. 
 
 O'GRADY (STANDISH) 
 
 TORYISM AND THE TORY DEMOCRACY. Crown 
 
 Svo, 5s. 
 OLIVER (D.), LL.D., F.L.S., F.R.S., 6\v 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE PRINCIPAL NATURAL 
 
 ORDERS OF THE VEGETABLE KINGDOM, PREPARED FOR THE 
 SCIENCE AND ART DEPARTMENT, SOUTH KENSINGTON. New 
 
 Edition, revised by Author. With IOQ Plates. Coloured, royal Svo. i6s. 
 
 OLIVER (E. E.), Under-Secretary to the Public Works Department, Punjaub 
 
 ACROSS THE BORDER ; or, PATHAN AND BILOCH. 
 
 With numerous Illustrations by J. L. KIPLING, C.I.E. Demy Svo, 145. 
 PAPUS 
 
 THE TAROT OF THE BOHEMIANS. The most 
 
 ancient book in the world. For the exclusive use of the Initiates. An Absolute 
 Key to Occult Science. With numerous Illustrations. Large crown Svo, 75. 6d. 
 
 PATER SON (ARTHUR) 
 
 A PARTNER FROM THE WEST. Crown Svo, 55. 
 
 PA YTON (E. W.) 
 
 ROUND ABOUT NEW ZEALAND. Being Notes from 
 
 a Journal of Three Years' Wandering in the Antipodes. With Twenty original 
 Illustrations by the Author. Large crown Svo, 125.
 
 20 BOOKS PUBLISHED BY 
 
 PELAGIUS 
 
 HOW TO BUY A HORSE. With Hints on Shoeing and 
 
 Stable Management. Third Thousand. Crown 8vo, is. 
 PERROT (GEORGES) and CH1PIEZ (CHARLES} 
 
 A HISTORY pF ANCIENT ART IN GREECE. With 
 
 about 500 Illustrations. 2 vols. \In the Press. 
 
 A HISTORY OF ANCIENT ART IN PERSIA. 
 
 With 254 Illustrations, and 12 Steel and Coloured Plate?. Imperial 8vo 2is. 
 
 A HISTORY OF ANCIENT ART IN PHRYGIA 
 
 LYDIA, AND CARIA LYCIA. With 280 Illustrations. Imperial 8vo, 155. 
 
 A HISTORY OF ANCIENT ART IN SARDINIA, 
 
 JUDAEA, SYRIA, AND ASIA MINOR. With 395 Illustrations. 2 vols. 
 Imperial 8vo, 363. 
 
 A HISTORY OF ANCIENT ART IN PHCENICIA 
 
 AND ITS DEPENDENCIES. With 654 Illustrations. 3 vols. Imperial 
 8vo, 425. 
 
 A HISTORY OF ART IN CHALD^EA AND ASSYRIA. 
 
 With 452 Illustrations. 2 vols. Imperial 8vo, 425. 
 
 A HISTORY OF ART IN ANCIENT EGYPT. With 
 
 600 Illustrations. 2 vols. Imperial Svo, 42$. 
 PETERBOROUGH ( THE EARL OF) 
 
 THE EARL OF PETERBOROUGH AND MON- 
 
 MOUTH (Charles Mordaunt) : A Memoir. By Colonel FRANK RUSSELL, Royal 
 Dragoons. With Illustrations. 2 vols. demy Svo. 325. 
 
 PITT TAYLOR (FRANK) 
 
 THE CANTERBURY TALES. Selections from the Tales 
 
 of GEOFFREY CHAUCER rendered into Modern English. Crown Svo, 6s. 
 POLLEN (J. H.) 
 
 GOLD AND SILVER SMITH'S WORK. With nume- 
 
 rous Woodcuts. Large crown Svo, cloth, 2S. 6d. 
 
 ANCIENT AND MODERN FURNITURE AND 
 
 WOODWORK. With numerous Woodcuts. Large crown Svo, cloth, 25. 6d. 
 POLLOK (COLONEL) 
 
 INCIDENTS OF FOREIGN SPORT AND TRAVEL. 
 
 Author of " Sport in British Burma." With Illustrations. Demy Svo, i6s. 
 POOLS (STANLEY LANE), B.A., M.R.A.S. 
 
 THE ART OF THE SARACENS IN EGYPT. Pub- 
 
 lished for the Committee of Council on Education. With 108 Woodcuts. Large 
 crown Svo, 45. 
 
 POYNTER (E. ?.), R.A. 
 
 TEN LECTURES ON ART. Third Edition. Large 
 
 crown Svo, gs. 
 PR A TT (ROBERT), Headmaster School of Science and Art, Barraw-in-Furness 
 
 SCIOGRAPHY, OR PARALLEL AND RADIAL 
 
 PROJECTION OF SHADOWS. Being a Course of Exercises for the use of 
 Students in Architectural and Engineering Drawing, and for Candidates preparing 
 for the Examinations in this subject and in Third Grade Perspective conducted by 
 the Science and Art Department. Oblong quarto, ys. 6d.
 
 CHAPMAN & HALL, LIMITED. 21 
 
 PUSHKIN (A. S.) 
 
 THE QUEEN OF SPADES AND OTHER STORIES. 
 
 With a Biography. Translated from the Russian by Mrs. SUTHERLAND EDWARDS. 
 Illustrated. Crown 8vo, 35. 6d. 
 
 RADICAL PROGRAMME, THE. From the Fortnightly 
 
 Review, with additions. With a Preface by the RIGHT HON. J. CHAMBERLAIN. 
 M.P. Thirteenth Thousand. Crown 8vo, zs. fid. In Paper Covers, is. 
 
 RAE (W. FRASER) 
 
 AUSTRIAN HEALTH RESORTS THROUGHOUT 
 
 THE YEAR. A New and Enlarged Edition. Crown 8vo, 55. 
 RAMSDEN (LADY GWENDOLEN} 
 
 A BIRTHDAY BOOK. Containing 46 Illustrations from 
 
 Original Drawings. Royal 8vo, 215. 
 
 RAPHAEL : his Life, Works, and Times. By EUGENE MUNTZ. 
 
 Illustrated with about 200 Engravings. A New Edition, revised from the Second 
 French Edition. By W. ARMSTRONG, B.A. Imperial 8vo, 255. 
 
 READE (MRS. R. H.) 
 
 THE GOLDSMITH'S WARD; A Tale of London City in 
 
 the Fifteenth Century. With 27 Illustrations by W. BOWCHER. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 REDGRAVE (GILBERT) 
 
 OUTLINES OF HISTORIC ORNAMENT. Translated 
 
 from the German. Edited by GILBERT REDGRAVE. With numerous Illustrations. 
 Crown 8vo, 45. 
 
 REDGRAVE (RICHARD), R.A. 
 
 MANUAL OF DESIGN. With Woodcuts. Large crown 
 
 8vo, cloth, zs. fid. 
 
 ELEMENTARY MANUAL OF COLOUR, with a 
 
 Catechism on Colour. 24100, cloth, gd. 
 REDGRA VE (SAMUEL) 
 
 A DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE OF THE HIS- 
 TORICAL COLLECTION OF WATER-COLOUR PAINTINGS IN THE 
 SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. With numerous Chrome-lithographs and 
 other Illustrations. Royal 8vo, i is. 
 
 REN AN (ERNEST) 
 
 THE FUTURE OF SCIENCE: Ideas of 1848. Demy 
 
 8vo. 1 8s. 
 
 HISTORY OF THE PEOPLE OF ISRAEL. 
 
 FIRST DIVISION. Till the time of King David. Demy 8vo, 145. 
 
 SECOND DIVISION. From the Reign of David up to the Capture of Samaria. 
 
 Demy 8vo, 145. 
 THIRD DIVISION. From the time of Hezekiah till the Return from Babylon. 
 
 Demy 8vo, 145. 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF MY YOUTH. Translated from 
 
 the French, and revised by MADAME RENAN. Second Edition. Crown 8vo, 35. fid. 
 RIANO (JUAN F.) 
 
 THE INDUSTRIAL ARTS IN SPAIN. With numerous 
 
 Woodcuts. Large crown 8vo, cloth, 45. 
 RIBTON-TURNER (C. /.) 
 
 A HISTORY OF VAGRANTS AND VAGRANCY AND 
 
 BEGGARS AND BEGGING. With Illustrations. Demy 8vo, sis.
 
 22 BOOKS PUBLISHED BY 
 
 ROBERTS (MORLEY) 
 
 IN LOW RELIEF : A Bohemian Transcript. Crown 8vo, 
 
 33. 6d. In boards, as. 
 ROBINSON (JAMES F.) 
 
 BRITISH BEE FARMING. Its Profits and Pleasures. 
 
 Large crown 8vo, 55. 
 ROBINSON (J. C.) 
 
 ITALIAN SCULPTURE OF THE MIDDLE AGES 
 
 AND PERIOD OF THE REVIVAL OF ART. With 20 Engravings. Royal 
 8vo, cloth, 73. 6d. 
 
 ROBSON (GEORGE) 
 
 ELEMENTARY BUILDING CONSTRUCTION. Illus- 
 
 trated by a Design for an Entrance Lodge and Gate. 15 Plates. Oblong folio, 
 sewed, 8s. 
 
 ROCK (THE VERY REV. CANON], D.D. 
 
 TEXTILE FABRICS. With numerous Woodcuts. Large 
 
 crown 8vo, cloth, 25. 6d. 
 ROLAND (ARTHUR) 
 
 FARMING FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT. Edited 
 
 by WILLIAM ABLETT. 8 vols. Crown 8vo, 55. each. 
 DAIRY-FARMING, MANAGEMENT OF COWS, etc. 
 POULTRY-KEEPING. 
 
 TREE-PLANTING, FOR ORNAMENTATION OR PROFIT. 
 STOCK-KEEPING AND CATTLE-REARING. 
 DRAINAGE OF LAND, IRRIGATION, MANURES, etc. 
 ROOT-GROWING, HOPS, etc. 
 MANAGEMENT OF GRASS LANDS, LAYING DOWN GRASS, 
 
 ARTIFICIAL GRASSES, etc. 
 MARKET GARDENING, HUSBANDRY FOR FARMERS AND 
 
 GENERAL CULTIVATORS. 
 
 ROOSEVELT (BLANCHE) 
 
 ELISABETH OF ROUMANIA: A Study. With Two 
 
 Tales from the German of Carmen Sylva, Her Majesty Queen of Roumania. 
 With Two Portraits and Illustration. Demy 8vo, 125. 
 
 ROSS (MRS. JANET) 
 
 EARLY DAYS RECALLED. With Illustrations and 
 
 Portrait. Crown 8vo, is. 
 RUSSAN (ASHMORE) and BOYLE (FREDERICK) 
 
 THE ORCHID SEEKERS: a Story of Adventure in 
 
 Borneo. Illustrated by ALFRED HARTLEY. Crown 8vo, 75. 6d. 
 RUSSELL (W. CLARK] 
 
 MISS PARSON'S ADVENTURE, and OTHER STORIES 
 
 by W. E. NORRIS. JULIAN HAWTHORNE, MRS. L. B. WALFORD. J. M. BARRIE, 
 F. C. PHILIPS, MRS. ALEXANDER, and WILLIAM WBSTALL. With 16 Illustra- 
 tions. One volume. Crown 8vo, ss. 
 
 R YAN (CHARLES), Late Head Master of the Ventnor School of Art 
 
 EGYPTIAN ART. An Elementary Handbook for the 
 
 use of Students. With 56 Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 25. 6d. Science and Art 
 Series. 
 
 SCHAUERMANN (F. L.) 
 
 WOOD-CARVING IN PRACTICE AND THEORY, 
 
 AS APPLIED TO HOME ARTS. With Notes on Designs having special 
 application^ to Carved Wood in different styles. Containing 124 Illustrations. 
 Second Edition. Large crown 8vo, 55.
 
 CHAPMAN & HALL, LIMITED. 23 
 
 SCIENCE AND ART SERIES 
 
 EGYPTIAN ART : An Elementary Handbook for the use 
 
 of Students. By CHARLES RYAN, late Head Master of the Ventnor School of Art. 
 With 56 Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 25. 6d. 
 
 ELEMENTARY DESIGN : Being a Theoretical and 
 
 Practical Introduction in the Art of Decoration. By RICHARD G. HATTON, 
 Durham College of Science, Newcastle-on-Tyne. With no Illustrations. Crown 
 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 THE STREET OF HUMAN HABITATIONS. By 
 
 MRS. RAY S. LINEHAM. Fully Illustrated. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 BUILDING CONSTRUCTION : Key to Examinations of 
 
 Science and Art Department. By HENRY ADAMS, M.Inst.C E., M.I.Mech.E., 
 F.S.I., etc., Professor of Engineering at the City of London College. Crown 
 
 THE DECORATION OF METALS : Chasing, Repousse, 
 
 and Saw Piercing. By JOHN HARRISON. With 180 Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 33. 6d. 
 
 ELEMENTARY DRAWING: a Few Suggestions for 
 
 Students and Teachers. By H. FOSTER NEWEY, Birmingham School of Art. 
 Illustrated. Crown 8vo. 
 SCOTT (JOHN) 
 
 THE REPUBLIC AS A FORM OF GOVERNMENT; 
 
 or, The Evolution of Democracy in America. Crown 8vo, 75. 6d. 
 SEEM AN (.) 
 
 THE MYTHOLOGY OF GREECE AND ROME, with 
 
 Special Reference to its Use in Art. From the German. Edited by G. H. 
 BIANCHI. 64 Illustrations. New Edition. Crown 8vo, 55. 
 
 SETON-KARR (H. W.) t F.R.G.S., etc. 
 
 BEAR HUNTING IN THE WHITE MOUNTAINS; 
 
 or, Alaska and British Columbia Revisited. Illustrated. Large Crown, 45. 6d. 
 
 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL AND SPORT IN FOREIGN 
 
 Lands ; or, Travels in the Eighties. Second Edition, with additions and Portrait 
 of Author. Large crown 8vo, ss. 
 SEXTON (A. HUMBOLDT) 
 
 THE FIRST TECHNICAL COLLEGE: a Sketch of the 
 
 History of " The Andersonian " and the Institutions descended from it 1796-1894. 
 With Portraits and Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 
 
 SHEPHERD (MAJOR), R.E. 
 
 PRAIRIE EXPERIENCES IN HANDLING CATTLE 
 
 AND SHEEP. With Illustrations and Map. Demy 8vo, xos. 6d. 
 SHIRREFF (EMILY) 
 
 A SHORT SKETCH OF THE LIFE OF FRIEDRICH 
 
 FROBEL ; a New Edition, including Frobel's Letters from Dresden and Leipzig 
 to his Wife, now first Translated into English. Crown 8vo, 25. 
 
 HOME EDUCATION IN RELATION TO THE 
 
 KINDERGARTEN. Two Lectures. Crown 8vo, is. 6d. 
 SHORE (ARABELLA) 
 
 DANTE FOR BEGINNERS : a Sketch of the " Divina 
 
 Commedia." With Translations, Biographical and Critical Notices, and Illus- 
 trations. With Portrait. Crown 8vo, 6s, 
 SIMKIN (R.\- 
 
 LIFE IN THE ARMY: Every-day Incidents in Camp, 
 
 Field, and Quarters. Printed in Colours. Oblong 4to, 55. 
 SIMMON DS (T. L.) 
 
 ANIMAL PRODUCTS: their Preparation, Commercial 
 
 Uses, and Value. With numerous Illustrations. Large crown 8vo, 35. 6d.
 
 24 BOOKS PUBLISHED BY 
 
 SINNETT (A. P.) 
 
 ESOTERIC BUDDHISM. Annotated and enlarged by 
 
 the Author. Seventh Edition. Crown 8vo, 35. 6d. 
 
 KARMA. A Novel. New Edition. Crown 8vo, 35. 
 
 SMITH (MAJOR R. MURDOCK), R.E. 
 
 PERSIAN ART. With Map and Woodcuts. Second Edition. 
 
 Large crown 8vo as. 
 SPENCER (HERBERT) 
 
 APHORISMS FROM THE WRITINGS OF. With 
 
 a Photogravure Portrait. Second Thousand. Crown 8vo, 35. 
 
 STANLEY (H. M.) : HIS LIFE, WORKS, AND EXPLORA- 
 TIONS. By the Rev. H. W. LITTLE. Demy 8vo, IDS. 6d. 
 STA THAM (H. H.) 
 
 FORM AND DESIGN IN MUSIC: A Brief Outline of 
 
 the ^Esthetic Conditions of the Art, addressed to General Readers. With Musical 
 Examples. Demy 8vo, 25. 6d. 
 
 MY THOUGHTS ON MUSIC AND MUSICIANS. 
 
 Illustrated with Frontispiece of the Entrance-front of Handel's Opera House and 
 Musical Examples. Demy 8vo, i8s. 
 STEELE (ANNA C.) 
 
 CLOVE PINK. Crown 8vo, 33. 6d. 
 STODDARD (C. A.) 
 
 SPANISH CITIES: with Glimpses of Gibraltar and 
 
 Tangiers. With 18 Illustrations. Large crown 8vo, 75. 6d. 
 
 ACROSS RUSSIA FROM THE BALTIC TO THE 
 
 DANUBE. With Numerous Illustrations. Large crown 8vo, 75. 6d. 
 STOKES (MARGARET) 
 
 EARLY CHRISTIAN ART IN IRELAND. With 106 
 
 Woodcuts. Crown 8vo, 4s. 
 
 STORIES FROM "BLACK AND WHITE." By GRANT 
 
 ALLEN, MRS. LYNN LINTON, J. M. BARRIE, MRS. OLIPHANT, W. CLARK 
 RUSSELL, THOMAS HARDY, W. E. NORRIS, and JAMES PAYN. With numerous 
 Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 55. 
 
 STORY (W. W.) 
 
 CASTLE ST. ANGELO. With Illustrations. Crown 
 
 Svo, 10$. fid. 
 SUTCL1FFB (JOHN) 
 
 THE SCULPTOR AND ART STUDENT'S GUIDE 
 
 to the Proportions of the Human Form, with Measurements in feet and inches of 
 Full-Grown Figures of Both Sexes and of Various Ages. By Dr. G. SCHADOVT. 
 Plates reproduced by J. SUTCLIFFE. Oblong folio, 315. 6d. 
 
 SUV6ROFF, LIFE OF. By LIEUT.-COL. SPALDING. Crown 
 SWIFT ]' THE MYSTERY OF HIS LIFE AND LOVE. 
 
 By the Rev. JAMES HAY. Crown Svo, 6s. 
 SYMONDS (JOHN ADDINGTON) 
 
 ESSAYS, SPECULATIVE AND SUGGESTIVE. New 
 
 Edition. Demy Svo, gs. 
 TANNER (PROFESSOR), F.C.S. 
 
 HOLT CASTLE; or, Threefold Interest in Land. Crown 
 
 8vo, 43. 6d. 
 
 JACK'S EDUCATION; OR, HOW HE LEARNT 
 
 FARMING. Second Edition. Crown Svo, 35. 6d.
 
 CHAPMAN & HALL, LIMITED. 25 
 
 TAYLOR (EDWARD R.), Head Master of the Birmingham Municipal School 
 of Art 
 
 ELEMENTARY ART TEACHING: An Educational 
 
 and Technical Guide for Teachers and Learners, including Infant School-work ; 
 The Work of the Standards ; Freehand ; Geometry ; Model Drawing ; Nature 
 Drawing ; Colours ; Light and Shade ; Modelling and Design. With over 600 
 Diagrams and Illustrations. 8vo, los. 6d. 
 
 TEMPLE (SIR RICHARD}, BART., M.P., G.C.S.I. 
 
 COSMOPOLITAN ESSAYS. With Maps. Demy 8vo, i6s. 
 THOMSON (D. C.) 
 
 THE BARBIZON SCHOOL OF PAINTERS: Corot, 
 
 Rousseau, Diaz, Millet, and Daubigny. With 130 Illustrations, including 36 Full- 
 Page Plates, of which 18 are Etchings. 410, cloth, 425. 
 
 THRUPP (GEORGE A.) and FARR (WILLIAM) 
 
 COACH TRIMMING. With 60 Illustrations. Crown 
 
 8vo, zs. 6d. 
 THRUPP (THE REV. H. W.), M.A. 
 
 AN AID TO THE VISITATION OF THOSE DIS- 
 TRESSED IN MIND, BODY, OR ESTATE. Crown 8vo, 35. 6d. 
 
 TOP1NARD (DR. PAUL) 
 
 ANTHROPOLOGY. With a Preface by Professor PAUL 
 
 BROCA. With 49 Illustrations. Demy 8vo, 35. 6d. 
 TOVEY (LIEUT. -COL., R.E.) 
 
 MARTIAL LAW AND CUSTOM OF WAR; or, Military 
 
 Law and Jurisdiction in Troublous Times. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 TRAHERNE (MAJOR) 
 
 THE HABITS OF THE SALMON. Crown 8vo, 33. 6d. 
 
 TROLLOPS (ANTHONY} 
 
 THE CHRONICLES OF BARSETSHIRE. A Uniform 
 
 Edition, in 8 vols., large crown 8vo, handsomely printed, each vol. containing 
 
 Frontispiece. 6s. each. 
 THE WARDEN and BAR- 
 CHESTER TOWERS. 2 vols. 
 DR. THORNE. 
 FRAMLEY PARSONAGE. 
 
 THE SMALL HOUSE AT 
 ALLINGTON. 2 vols. 
 
 LAST CHRONICLE OF 
 BARSET. 2 vols. 
 
 TROUP (J. ROSE) 
 
 WITH STANLEY'S REAR COLUMN. With Portraits 
 
 and Illustrations. Second Edition. Demy 8vo, i6s. 
 UNDERHILL (G. F.) 
 
 THE HELTERSKELTER HOUNDS : or, Mr. Flopkin's 
 
 Sporting Memoirs. \Vithnumerous Illustrations by L. THACKERAY. Crown 8vo, is. 
 
 IN AND OUT OF THE PIGSKIN. With Illustrations 
 
 by WALLIS MACKAY. Second Edition. Crown 8vo. is. 
 VERON (EUGENE) 
 
 AESTHETICS. Translated by W. H. ARMSTRONG. Large 
 
 crown 8vo, 35. 6d. 
 WALFORD (MAJOR), R.A. 
 
 PARLIAMENTARY GENERALS OF THE GREAT 
 
 CIVIL WAR. With Maps. Large crown 8vo, 45.
 
 26 BOOKS PUBLISHED BY 
 
 WALKER (MRS.} 
 
 UNTRODDEN PATHS IN ROUMANIA. With 77 
 
 Illustrations. Demy 8vo, los. 6d. 
 
 EASTERN LIFE AND SCENERY, with Excursions to 
 
 Asia Minor, Mitylene, Crete, and Roumania. a vols., with Frontispiece to each 
 vol. Crown 8vo, sis. 
 WALL (A.) 
 
 A PRINCESS OF CHALCO. With Illustrations. Crown 
 
 8vo, 6s. 
 WARD (JAMES) 
 
 ELEMENTARY PRINCIPLES OF ORNAMENT. 
 
 With 122 Illustrations in the text. 8vo, 55. 
 
 THE PRINCIPLES OF ORNAMENT. Edited by 
 
 GEORGE AITCHINSON, A.R.A Crown 8vo, 75. 6d. 
 WARD (R.) 
 
 SUPPLEJACK: a Romance of Maoriland. With 8 
 
 Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 WATSON (JOHN) 
 
 POACHERS AND POACHING. With Frontispiece. 
 
 Crown 8vo, 75. 6d. 
 
 SKETCHES OF BRITISH SPORTING FISHES. With 
 
 Frontispiece. Crown 8vo, 35. 6d. 
 WEGG-PROSSER (F. R.) 
 
 GALILEO AND HIS JUDGES. Demy 8vo, 53. 
 WHITE (WALTER) 
 
 A MONTH IN YORKSHIRE. With a Map. Fifth 
 
 Edition. Post 8vo, 45. 
 
 A LONDONER'S WALK TO THE LAND'S END, AND 
 
 A TRIP TO THE SCILLY ISLES. With 4 Maps. Third Edition. Post 8vo, 4?. 
 W1EL (HON. MRS.) 
 
 CHURCH EMBROIDERY DESIGNS FOR. By A. R. 
 
 Letterpress by the HON. MRS. WIEL. With numerous Illustrations. 410, 
 WOLVERTON (LORD) 
 
 FIVE MONTHS' SPORT IN SOMALI LAND. With 
 
 Illustrations. Demy 8vo, 75. 6d. 
 WOODGATE (W. B.) 
 
 A MODERN LAYMAN'S FAITH CONCERNING THE 
 
 CREED AND THE BREED OF THE "THOROUGHBRED MAN." 
 Demy 8vo, 145. 
 WORNUM(R. N.y- 
 
 ANALYSIS OF ORNAMENT: THE CHARACTER- 
 ISTICS OF STYLES. An Introduction to the History of Ornamental Art. 
 With many Illustrations. Ninth Edition. Royal 8vo, cloth, 8s. 
 WORSAAE (J. J. A.) 
 
 INDUSTRIAL ARTS OF DENMARK, FROM THE 
 
 EARLIEST TIMES TO THE DANISH CONQUEST OF ENGLAND. 
 With Maps and Woodcuts. Large crown 8vo, 35. 6d. 
 
 WRIGHTSON (PROF. JOHN), M.R.A.C., F.C.S., &c ; President of the 
 College of Agriculture, Downton. 
 
 PRINCIPLES OF AGRICULTURAL PRACTICE AS 
 
 AN INSTRUCTIONAL SUBJECT. With Geological Map Second Edition. 
 
 FALLOW' AND FODDER CROPS. Crown 8vo, 53. 
 
 YOUNGE (C. D.) 
 
 PARALLEL LIVES OF ANCIENT AND MODERN 
 
 HEROES. New Edition. i2mo, cloth, 45. 6d.
 
 CHAPMAN & HALL, LIMITED. 27 
 
 SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM SCIENCE AND ART 
 
 HANDBOOKS, 
 Handsomely printed in large crown 8vo. 
 
 Published for the Committee of the Council on Education. 
 IRONWORK: From the Earliest Times to the End of the 
 
 Mediaeval Period. By J. STARKIE GARDNER. With 57 Illusttations. Crcwn 8vo, 35. 
 
 MARINE ENGINES AND BOILERS. By GEORGE C. V. 
 
 HOLMES, Secretary of the Institution of Naval Architects, Whitworth Scholar. 
 With Sixty-nine Woodcuts. Large crown 8vo, 33. 
 
 EARLY CHRISTIAN ART IN IRELAND. By MARGARET 
 
 STOKES. With 106 Woodcuts- Crown 8vo, 45. 
 
 A Library Edition, demy 8vo, 75. 6d. 
 
 FOOD GRAINS OF INDIA. By PROF. A. H. CHURCH, M.A., 
 
 F.C.S., F.I.C. With Numerous Woodcuts. Small 4 to, 6s. 
 
 THE ART OF THE SARACENS IN EGYPT. By STANLEY 
 
 LANE POOLE, B.A., M.A.R.S. With 108 Woodcuts. Crown 8vo, 45. 
 
 ENGLISH PORCELAIN : A Handbook to the China made in 
 
 England during the i8th Century. By PROF. A. H. CHURCH, M.A. With 
 numerous Woodcuts. 35. 
 
 RUSSIAN ART AND ART OBJECTS IN RUSSIA: A 
 
 Handbook to the reproduction of Goldsmiths' work and other Art Treasures from 
 that country in the South Kensington Museum. By ALFRED MASKELL. With 
 Illustrations. 45. 6d. 
 
 FRENCH POTTERY. By PAUL GASNAULT and EDOUARD 
 
 GARNIER. With Illustrations and Marks. 33. 
 
 ENGLISH EARTHENWARE: A Handbook to the Wares 
 
 made in England during the i/th and i8th Centuries. By PROF. A. H. CHURCH, 
 M.A. With numerous Woodcuts. 35. 
 
 INDUSTRIAL ARTS OF DENMARK. From the Earliest 
 
 Times to the Danish Conquest of England. By J. J. A. WORSAAK, Hon. F.S.A , 
 &c. &c. With Map and Woodcuts. 35. 6d. 
 
 INDUSTRIAL ARTS OF SCANDINAVIA IN THE PAGAN 
 
 TIME. By HANS HILDEBRAND, Royal Antiquary of Sweden. With numerous 
 Woodcuts, as. 6d. 
 
 PRECIOUS STONES: Considered in their Scientific and 
 
 Artistic relations. By PROF. A. H. CHURCH, M.A. With a Coloured Plate and 
 Woodcuts. 2S. 6d. 
 
 INDUSTRIAL ARTS OF INDIA. By Sir GEORGE C. M. 
 
 BIRDWOOD, C.S.I., &c. With Map and Woodcuts. Demy 8vo, 145. 
 
 HANDBOOK TO THE DYCE AND FORSTER COLLEC- 
 TIONS in the South Kensington Museum. With Portraits and Facsimiles, as. Cd. 
 
 INDUSTRIAL ARTS IN SPAIN. By JUAN F. RIANO. 
 
 With numerous Woodcuts. 45. 
 
 GLASS. By ALEXANDER NESBITT. With numerous Woodcuts. 
 
 25. 6d. 
 
 GOLD AND SILVER SMITHS' WORK. By JOHN HUNGER- 
 FORD POLLEN, M.A. With numerous Woodcuts, zs. 6d. 
 
 TAPESTRY. By ALFRED DE CHAMPEAUX. With Woodcuts. 25. 6d. 
 BRONZES. By C. DRURY E. FORTNUM, F.S.A. With numerous 
 
 Woodcuts. 2S. 6d.
 
 28 BOOKS PUBLISHED B Y 
 
 SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM SCIENCE & ART HANDBOOKS Continued. 
 
 PLAIN WORDS ABOUT WATER. By A. H. CHURCH, M.A. 
 
 Oxon. With Illustrations. Sewed, 6d. 
 
 ANIMAL PRODUCTS : their Preparation, Commercial Uses, 
 
 and Value. By T. L. SIMMONDS. With Illustrations. 35. 6d. 
 
 FOOD : Some Account of its Sources, Constituents, and Uses. 
 
 By PROFESSOR A. H. CHURCH, M.A. Oxon. New and Revised Edition. 35. 
 
 ECONOMIC ENTOMOLOGY. By ANDREW MURRAY, F.L.S. 
 
 APTERA. With Illustrations. 35. 6d. 
 
 JAPANESE POTTERY. Being a Native Report. With an 
 
 Introduction and Catalogue by A. W. FRANKS, M.A., F.R.S., F.S.A. With 
 Illustrations and Marks, zs. 6d. 
 
 HANDBOOK TO THE SPECIAL LOAN COLLECTION 
 
 of Scientific Apparatus. 35. 
 
 INDUSTRIAL ARTS: Historical Sketches. With Numerous 
 
 Illustrations. 35. 
 
 TEXTILE FABRICS. By the Very Rev. DANIEL ROCK, D.D. 
 
 With numerous Woodcuts, zs. 6d. 
 
 JONES COLLECTION IN THE SOUTH KENSINGTON 
 
 MUSEUM. With Portrait and Woodcuts, zs. 6d. 
 
 COLLEGE AND CORPORATION PLATE. A Handbook 
 
 to the Reproductions of Silver Plate in the South Kensington Museum from 
 Celebrated English Collections. By WILFRED JOSEPH CRIPPS, M.A., F.S.A. 
 With Illustrations, zs. 6d. 
 
 IVORIES: ANCIENT AND MEDIEVAL. By WILLIAM 
 
 MASKELL. With numerous Woodcuts. 25. 6d. 
 
 ANCIENT AND MODERN FURNITURE AND WOOD- 
 
 WORK. By JOHN HUNGERFORD POLLEN, M.A. With numerous Woodcuts, 
 zs. 6d. 
 
 MAIOLICA. By C. DRURY E. FORTNUM, F.S.A. With 
 
 numerous Woodcuts, zs. 6d. 
 
 THE CHEMISTRY OF FOODS. With Microscopic Illus- 
 
 trations. By JAMES BELL, Ph.D., &c. , Principal of the Somerset House Laboratory. 
 
 Part i. Tea, Coffee, Cocoa, Sugar, &c. zs. 6d. 
 
 Part ii. Milk, Butter, Cheese, Cereals, Prepared Starches, &c. 35. 
 
 MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS. By CARL ENGEL. With nu- 
 
 merous Woodcuts, zs. 6d. 
 
 MANUAL OF DESIGN. By RICHARD REDGRAVE, R.A. By 
 
 GILBERT R. REDGRAVE. With Woodcuts, zs. 6d. 
 
 PERSIAN ART. By MAJOR R. MURDOCK SMITH, R.E. With 
 
 Map and Woodcuts. Second Edition, enlarged, zs.
 
 CHAPMAN &> HALL, LIMITED. 
 
 29 
 
 CARLYLE'S (THOMAS) WORKS. 
 
 THE ASHBURTON EDITION. 
 
 New Edition, handsomely printed, containing all the Portraits and 
 Illustrations, in Twenty Volumes, demy 8vo, 8s. each. 
 
 THE FRENCH REVOLUTION AND PAST AND PRESENT. 2 vols. 
 SARTOR RESARTUS; HEROES AND HERO WORSHIP. I vol. 
 LIFE OF JOHN STERLING LIFE OF SCHILLER I vol. 
 
 LATTER-DAY PAMPHLETS EARLY KINGS OF NORWAY 
 
 ESSAY ON THE PORTRAIT OF JOHN KNOX. i vol. 
 
 LETTERS AND SPEECHES OF OLIVER CROMWELL. 3 vols. 
 HISTORY OF FREDERICK THE GREAT. 6 vols. 
 CRITICAL AND MISCELLANEOUS ESSAYS. 3 vols. 
 TRANSLATIONS FROM THE GERMAN. 3 vols. 
 
 LIBRARY EDITION COMPLETF. 
 Handsomely printed in 34 vols., demy 8vo, 13 8s. 
 
 SARTOR RESARTUS. With a 
 
 Portrait, 75. 6d. 
 
 THE FRENCH REVOLUTION. 
 A History. 3 vols., each 95. 
 
 LIFEof FREDERICK SCHILLER 
 AND EXAMINATION OF HIS 
 WORKS With Supplement of 1872 
 Portrait and Plates, gs. 
 
 CRITICAL AND MISCELLA- 
 NEOUS ESSAYS. With Portrait. 
 6 vols., each gs. 
 
 ON HEROES, HERO WORSHIP, 
 AND THE HEROIC IN HISTORY. 
 
 7 s. 6d. 
 
 PAST AND PRESENT. 95. 
 
 OLIVER CROMWELL'S LET- 
 TERS AND SPEECHES. With Por- 
 traits. 5 vols., each gs. 
 
 LATTER - DAY PAMPHLETS. 
 
 95. 
 LIFE OF JOH^ STERLING. 
 
 With Portrait, g. 
 HISTORY OF FREDERICK 
 
 THE SECOND. 10 vols., each g. 
 
 TRANSLATIONS FROM THE 
 GERMAN. 3 vols., each gs. 
 
 EARLY KINGS OF NORWAY; 
 ESSAY ON THE PORTRAITS OF 
 JOHN KNOX; AND GENERAL 
 INDEX. With Portrait Illustrations. 
 8vo, cloth, gs. 
 
 PEOPLE'S EDITION. 
 
 37 vols., small crown 8vo, 37-f.; s parate vols,, is. each, 
 SARTOR RESARTUS. With Por- 
 
 trait of Thomas Carlyle. 
 
 FRENCH REVOLUTION. A 
 
 History. 3 vols. 
 
 OLIVER CROMWELL'S LET- 
 TERS AND SPEECHES. 5 vols. 
 
 With Portrait of Oliver Cromwell. 
 
 ON HEROES AND HERO 
 WORSHIP AND THE HEROIC 
 IN HISTORY. 
 
 PAST AND PRESENT. 
 
 CRITICAL AND MISCELLA- 
 NEOUS ESSAYS. 7 vols. 
 
 THE LIFE OF SCHILLER, 
 AND EXAMINATION OF HIS 
 WORKS. With Portrait. 
 
 LATTER-DAY PAMPHLETS. 
 
 WILHELM MEISTER. 3 vols. 
 
 LIFE OF JOHN STERLING. 
 
 With Portrait. 
 HISTORY OF FREDERICK 
 
 THE GREAT. 10 vols. 
 TRANSLATIONS FROM 
 
 MUS/EUS, TIECK, AND R1CHTER. 
 
 2 Vols. 
 
 THE EARLY KINGS OF NOR- 
 WAY ; Essay on the Portraits of Knox. 
 
 Or in sets, 37 vols. in 18,
 
 30 BOOKS PUBLISHED BY 
 
 CARLYLE'S (THOMAS) WORKS, Continued. 
 
 A RE-ISSUE OF 
 
 THE WORKS OF THOMAS CARI.YJ-E. 
 Price 2s 6d. a Volume. 
 
 This Edition will include the whole of his writings and translations, together 
 with the Portraits and Maps, 
 
 The Volumes ready are 
 
 SARTOR RESARTUS AND LATTER-DAY PAMPHLETS. With 
 a Portrait of Thomas Carlyle. 
 
 PAST AND PRESENT AND ON HEROES AND HERO WORSHIP. 
 LIFE OF JOHN STERLING AND LIFE OF SCHILLER. 
 
 CRITICAL AND MISCELLANEOUS ESSAYS, EARLY KINGS 
 OF NORWAY AND ESSAY ON THE PORTRAITS OF KNOX. 
 
 \Fuur volumes. 
 
 FRENCH REVOLUTION ; a History. / two volumes. 
 
 OLIVER CROMWELL'S LETTERS AND SPEECHES, with Portrait 
 of Oliver Cromwell. In three volumes. 
 
 To be followed by 
 
 HISTORY OF FREDERICK THE GREAT. / fi ve volume* Vol. I. in 
 July, Vol. II. in August, Vol. III. in September, Vol. IV. in October, Vol. V. in 
 November. 
 
 WILHELM MEISTER. : n two volume. 
 
 TRANSLATIONS FROM MUS^EUS, TIECK AND RICHTER. 
 In one volume. 
 
 CHEAP ISSUE. 
 THE FRENCH REVOLUTION. One volume. With Portrait. Crown 
 
 8VO, 25. 
 
 SARTOR RESARTUS, HEROES AND HERO WORSHIP, PAST 
 AND PRESENT, AND CHARTISM. One volume. Crown 8vo, 2s. 
 
 OLIVER CROMWELL'S LETTERS AND SPEECHES. Crown 8vo, 
 as. 6d. 
 
 CRITICAL AND MISCELLANEOUS ESSAYS. 2 vols. 45. 
 WILHELM MEISTER. One volume, 2s. 
 
 LIVES OF SCHILLER AND STERLING. With Portra : ts. One 
 volume, is. 
 
 SIXPENNY EDITION. 
 
 4 to, sewed. 
 
 SARTOR RESARTUS. Eightieth Thousand. 
 HEROES AND HERO WORSHIP. 
 
 ESSAYS : BDRNS, JOHNSON, SCOTT, THE DIAMOND NECKLACE. 
 The above in I vol., cloth, zs. 6J.
 
 CHAPMAN &> HALL, LIMITED. 31 
 
 DICKENS'S (CHARLES) WORKS. 
 
 ORIGINAL EDITIONS. 
 
 In demy Svo. 
 THE MYSTERY OF EDWIN DROOD. With Illustrations 
 
 by S. L. Fildes, and a Portrait engraved by Baker. Cloth, 75. 6d. 
 
 OUR MUTUAL FRIEND. \Vith Forty Illustrations by Marcus 
 
 Stone. Cloth, i is. 
 
 THE PICKWICK PAPERS. With Forty-three Illustrations 
 
 by Seymour and Phiz. Cloth, 1 is. 
 
 NICHOLAS NICKLEBY. With Forty Illustrations by Phiz. 
 
 Cloth, i is. 
 
 SKETCHES BY " BOZ." With Forty Illustrations by George 
 
 Cruikshank. Cloth, i is. 
 
 MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT. With Forty Illustrations by Phiz. 
 
 Cloth, i is. 
 
 DOMBEY AND SON. With Forty Illustrations by Phiz. 
 
 Cloth, 1 is. 
 
 DAVID COPPERFIELD. With Forty Illustrations by Phiz. 
 
 Cloth, i is. 
 
 BLEAK HOUSE. With Forty Illustrations by Phiz. Cloth, 
 
 1 is. 
 
 LITTLE DORRIT. With Forty Illustrations by Phiz. Cloth, 
 
 i is. 
 
 THE OLD CURIOSITY SHOP. With Seventy-five Illus- 
 trations by George Cattermole and H. K. Browne. A New Edition. Uniform with 
 the other volumes, 1 is. 
 
 BARNABY RUDGE : a Tale of the Riots of 'Eighty With 
 
 Seventy-eight Illustrations by George Cattermole and H. K. Browne. Uniform with 
 the other volumes, 1 is. 
 
 CHRISTMAS BOOKS: Containing The Christmas Carol ; 
 
 The Cricket on the Hearth ; The Chimes ; The Battle of Life ; The Haunted House. 
 With all the original Illustrations. Cloth, 125. 
 
 OLIVER TWIST and TALE OF TWO CITIES. In one 
 
 volume. Cloth, i is. 
 
 OLIVER TWIST. Separately. With Twenty-four Illustrations 
 
 by George Cruikshank. Cloth, us. 
 
 A TALE OF TWO CITIES. Separately. With Sixteen Illus- 
 
 trations by Phiz. Cloth, 95. 
 V The remainder of Dickers Works were not originally printed in demy *io.
 
 BOOKS PUBLISHED B Y 
 
 DICKENS'S (CHARLES) WORKS. Continued. 
 
 LIBRARY EDITION. 
 
 In post &vo. With the Original Illustrations, 30 vols., cloth, 12. 
 
 s. d. 
 
 PICKWICK PAPERS ............... 43 Illustrns., 2 vols. 16 o 
 
 NICHOLAS NICKLEBY ............ 39 2 vols. 16 o 
 
 MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT ............ 40 vols. 16 o 
 
 OLD CURIOSITY SHOP & REPRINTED PIECES 36 vols. 16 o 
 
 BARNABY RUDGE and HARD TIMES ...... 36 vols. 16 o 
 
 BLEAK HOUSE .................. 40 vols. 16 o 
 
 LITTLE DORRIT ............... 40 vols. 16 o 
 
 DOMBEY AND SON ............... 38 vols. 16 o 
 
 DAVID COPPERFIELD ............ 38 vols. 16 o 
 
 OUR MUTUAL FRIEND ............ 40 2 vols. 16 o 
 
 SKETCHES BY "BOZ" ............ 39 vol. 8 o 
 
 OLIVER TWIST ............... 24 vol. 8 o 
 
 CHRISTMAS BOOKS ............... 17 vol. 8 o 
 
 A TALE OF TWO CITIES ............ 16 vol. 8 o 
 
 GREAT EXPECTATIONS ............ 8 vol. 8 o 
 
 PICTURES FROM ITALY & AMERICAN NOTES 8 vol. 8 o 
 
 UNCOMMERCIAL TRAVELLER ... ..... . 8 vol. 8 o 
 
 CHILD'S HISTORY OF ENGLAND ...... 8 voL 8 o 
 
 EDWIN DROOD and MISCELLANIES ...... 12 vol. 8 o 
 
 CHRISTMAS STORIES from "Household Words," &c. 14 vol. 8 o 
 
 Uniform with the above, IOT. 6d. 
 THE LIFE OF CHARLES DICKENS. By JOHN FORSTER. With Illustrations. 
 
 THE " CHARLES DICKENS" EDITION. 
 
 In Crown 8vo. In 21 vols., cloth, with Illustrations, 3 i6.f. 
 
 s. d. 
 
 PICKWICK PAPERS 8 Illustrations ... 4 o 
 
 MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT 8 ..40 
 
 DOMBEY AND SON 8 ..40 
 
 NICHOLAS NICKLEBY 8 ..40 
 
 DAVID COPPERFIELD 8 ..40 
 
 BLEAK HOUSE 8 ..40 
 
 LITTLE DORRIT 8 ..40 
 
 OUR MUTUAL FRIEND 8 i o 
 
 BARNABY RUDGE 8 ..36 
 
 OLD CURIOSITY SHOP 8 -.36 
 
 A CHILD'S HISTORY OF ENGLAND 4 ... 3 6 
 
 EDWIN DROOD and OTHER STORIES 8 36 
 
 CHRISTMAS STORIES, from "Household Words"... 8 ...36 
 
 SKETCHES BY "BOZ" 8 ..36 
 
 AMERICAN NOTES and REPRINTED PIECES ... 8 ...36 
 
 CHRISTMAS BOOKS 8 ..36 
 
 OLIVER TWIST 8 36 
 
 GREAT EXPECTATIONS 8 ... 3 6 
 
 TALE OF TWO CITIES 8 ..30 
 
 HARD TIMES and PICTURES FROM ITALY ... 8 30 
 
 UNCOMMERCIAL TRAVELLER 4 ...30 
 
 Uniform with the above. 
 
 THE LIFE OF CHARLES DICKENS. Numerous Illustrations. 2 vols. 7 o 
 
 THE LETTERS OF CHARLES DICKENS 2 vols. 7 o
 
 CHAPMAN & HALL, LIMITED. 33 
 
 DICKENS'S (CHARLES) WORKS. Continued. 
 
 THE ILLUSTRATED LIBRARY EDITION. 
 (WITH LIFE.) 
 
 Complete in 32 Volumes. Demy 8vo, tos. each ; or set, f6. 
 
 This Edition is printed on a finer paper and in a larger type than has been 
 employed in any previous edition. The type has been cast especially for it, and 
 the page is of a size to admit of the introduction of all the original illustrations. 
 
 No such attractive issue has been made of the writings of Mr. Dickens, which, 
 various as have been the forms of publication adapted to the demands of an ever 
 widely-increasing popularity, have never yet been worthily presented in a really 
 handsome library form. 
 
 The collection comprises all the minor writings it was Mr. Dickens's wish to 
 preserve. 
 
 SKETCHES BY " BOZ." With 40 Illustrations by George Cruikshank, 
 
 PICKWICK PAPERS. 2 vols. With 42 Illustrations by Phiz. 
 
 OLIVER TWIST. With 24 Illustrations by Cruikshank. 
 
 NICHOLAS NICKLEBY. 2 vols. With 40 Illustrations by Phiz. 
 
 OLD CURIOSITY SHOP and REPRINTED PIECES. 2 vols. With Illus- 
 trations by Cattermole, &c. 
 
 BARNABY RUDGE and HARD TIMES. 2 vols. With Illustrations by 
 Cattermole, &c. 
 
 MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT. 2 vols. With 40 Illustrations by Phiz. 
 
 AMERICAN NOTES and PICTURES FROM ITALY. i voL With 
 8 Illustrations. 
 
 DOMBEY AND SON. 2 vols. With 40 Illustrations by Phiz. 
 
 DAVID COPPERFIELD. 2 vols. With 40 Illustrations by Phiz. 
 
 BLEAK HOUSE. 2 vols. With 40 Illustrations by Phiz. 
 
 LITTLE DORRIT. 2 vols. With 40 Illustrations by Phiz. 
 
 A TALE OF TWO CITIES. With 16 Illustrations by Phiz. 
 
 THE UNCOMMERCIAL TRAVELLER. With 8 Illustrations by Marcus Stone. 
 
 GREAT EXPECTATIONS. With 8 Illustrations by Marcus Stone. 
 
 OUR MUTUAL FRIEND. 2 vols. With 40 Illustrations by Marcus Stone. 
 
 CHRISTMAS BOOKS. With 17 Illustrations by Sir Edwin Landseer, R.A., 
 Maclise, R.A., &c. &c. 
 
 HISTORY OF ENGLAND. With 8 Illustrations by Marcus Stone. 
 
 CHRISTMAS STORIES. (From "Household Words" and "All the Year 
 Round.") With 14 Illustrations. 
 
 EDWIN DROOD AND OTHER STORIES. With 13 Illustrations by 
 S. L. Fildes. 
 
 LIFE OF CHARLES DICKENS. By John Forster. With Portraits, a vols.
 
 34 BOOKS PUBLISHED BY 
 
 DICKENS'S (CHARLES) WORKS. Continued. 
 
 HOUSEHOLD EDITION. 
 
 (WITH LIFE.) 
 
 In 22 Volumes. Crown qfo, cloth, ^ Ss. 6J, 
 
 MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT, with 59 Illustrations, 53. 
 DAVID COPPERFIELD, with 60 Illustrations and a Portrait, 53. 
 BLEAK HOUSE, with 61 Illustrations, 53. 
 LITTLE DORRIT, with 58 Illustrations, 55. 
 PICKWICK PAPERS, with 56 Illustrations, 53. 
 OUR MUTUAL FRIEND, with 58 Illustrations, 55. 
 NICHOLAS NICKLEBY, with 59 Illustrations, 53. 
 DOMBEY AND SON, with 61 Illustrations, 53. 
 
 EDWIN DROOD ; REPRINTED PIECES ; and other Stories, with 30 Illustra- 
 tions, 53. 
 
 THE LIFE OF DICKENS. BY JOHN FORSTER. With 40 Illustrations, 55. 
 BARNABY RUDGE, with 46 Illustrations, 43. 
 OLD CURIOSITY SHOP, with 32 Illustrations, 43. 
 CHRISTMAS STORIES, with 23 Illustrations, 43. 
 OLIVER TWIST, with 28 Illustrations, 33. 
 GREAT EXPECTATIONS, with 26 Illustrations, 33. 
 SKETCHES BY " BOZ," with 36 Illustrations, 35. 
 UNCOMMERCIAL TRAVELLER, with 26 Illustrations, 33. 
 CHRISTMAS BOOKS, with 28 Illustrations, 33. 
 THE HISTORY OF ENGLAND, with 15 Illustrations, 35. 
 AMERICAN NOTES and PICTURES FROM ITALY, with 18 Illustrations, 33. 
 A TALE OF TWO CITIES, with 25 Illustrations, 35. 
 HARD TIMES, with 20 Illustrations, 23. 6d. 
 
 CHARLES DICKENS'S CHRISTMAS BOOKS. 
 
 REPRINTED FROM THE ORIGINAL PLATES, 
 Illustrated by JOHN LEECH, D. MACLISE, R.A., R. DOYLE, 
 
 C. STANFIELD, R.A., etc. 
 Fcap. cloth, is. each. Complete in a case, $s. 
 
 A CHRISTMAS CAROL IN PROSE. 
 
 THE CHIMES: A Goblin Story. 
 
 THE CRICKET ON THE HEARTH : A Fairy Tale of Home. 
 
 THE BATTLE OF LIFE. A Love Story. 
 
 THE HAUNTED MAN AND THE GHOST'S STORY. 
 
 SIXPENNY REPRINTS of DICKENS'S WORKS. 
 
 OLIVER TWIST. With 28 Illustrations by J. MAHONEY. 
 
 Medium 8vo. 
 
 READINGS FROM THE WORKS OF CHARLES DICKENS. 
 
 As s 'lected and read by himself and now published for the first time. Illustrated. 
 
 A CHRISTMAS CAROL, AND THE HAUNTED MAN. 
 
 Illustrated. 
 THE CHIMES: A GOBLIN STORY, AND THE CRICKET 
 
 ON THE HEARTH. Illustrated. 
 
 THE BATTLE OF LIFE: A LOVE STORY, HUNTED 
 DOWN, AND A HOLIDAY ROMANCE. Illustrated
 
 CHAPMAN & HALL, LIMITED. 
 
 35 
 
 DICKENS'S (CHARLES) WORKS. Continue*. 
 
 THE CROWN EDITION, 
 
 Complete in 17 vols. Containing ALL THE ORIGINAL ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 And the Letterpress is printed from Type expressly cast for this Edition. 
 
 LARGE CROWN OCTAVO. 
 PRICE FIVE SHILLINGS EACH. 
 
 i.-THE PICKWICK PAPERS. With Forty-three Illustrations by 
 SEYMOUR ani PHIZ. 
 
 2. - NICHOLAS NICKLEBY. With Forty Illustrations by PHIZ. 
 3.-DOMBEY AND SON. With Forty Illustrations by PHIZ. 
 4. DAVID COPPERFIELD. With Forty Illustrations by PHIZ 
 S.-SKETCHES BY BOZ." With Forty Illustrations by GEO 
 CRDIKSHANK. 
 
 6. MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT. With Forty Illustrations by PHIZ. 
 7. -THE OLD CURIOSITY SHOP. With Seventy-five Illustra- 
 tions by GEORGE CATTERMOLE and H. K. BROWNE. 
 
 8. BARNABY RUDGE : a Tale of the Riots of 'Eighty. With Seventy- 
 eight Illustrations by GEORGE CATTERMOLE and H. K. BROWNE 
 9. OLIVER TWIST and A TALE OF TWO CITIES. With 
 
 Twenty-four Illustrations by CRDIKSHANK and Sixteen by PHIZ 
 io. BLEAK HOUSE. With Forty Illustrations by PHIZ. 
 ii. LITTLE DORRIT. With Forty Illustrations by PHIZ. 
 12. OUR MUTUAL FRIEND. With Forty Illustrations by MARCUS 
 STONE. 
 
 13. AMERICAN NOTES; PICTURES FROM ITALY- and 
 A CHILD'S HISTORY OF ENGLAND. With Sixteen 
 Illustrations by MARCUS STONE. 
 
 14. CHRISTMAS BOOKS and HARD TIMES. With Illustra- 
 tions by LANDSEER, MACLISE, STANFIELD, LEECH, DOYLE, 
 F. WALKER, etc. 
 
 15. CHRISTMAS STORIES AND OTHER STORIES, including- 
 HUMPHREY'S CLOCK. With Illustrations by DALZIEL, 
 CHARIES GREES, MAHONEY, PHIZ, CATTERMOLE, etc. 
 
 I6.-GREAT EXPECTATIONS. UNCOMMERCIAL 
 TRAVELLER. With Sixteen Illustrations by MARCOS STONE. 
 
 17. EDWIN DROOD and REPRINTED PIECES. With Sixteen 
 Illustrations by LUKE FILUES and F. WALKER. 
 
 Uniform -with the above. 
 THE LIFE OF CHARLES DICKENS. By JOHN FORSTER.' 
 
 With Portraits and Illustrations. Will be added at the request of 
 
 numerous Subscribers. 
 THE DICKENS DICTIONARY. A Key to the Characters and 
 
 Principal Inciden's in the Tales of Charles Dickens. By GILBERT 
 
 PIERCE, with additions by WILLTAM A. WHEELER. 
 THE LAZY TOUR OF TWO IDLE APPRENTICES; NO 
 
 THOROUGHFARE; THE PERILS OF CERTAIN 
 
 ENGLISH PRISONERS. By CHARLES DICKENS and WILKIE. 
 
 COLLINS. With Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 55. 
 * \* These Stories are now reprinted in complete form for the first time.
 
 BOOKS PUBLISHED BY 
 
 DICKENS'S (CHARLES) WORKS. Continued. 
 
 THE CABINET EDITION. 
 
 In 32 vols. small fcap 8vo, Marble Paper Sides, Cloth Backs, with uncut 
 edges, price Eighteenpence each. 
 
 Each Volume contains Eight Illustrations reproduced from the Originals, 
 In Sets only, bound in blue and red cloth, with cut edges, 2 8s. 
 
 CHRISTMAS BOOKS. 
 MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT, 2 vol . 
 DAVID COPPERFIELD, 2 vols. 
 OLIVER TWIST. 
 GREAT EXPECTATIONS. 
 NICHOLAS NICKLEBY, 2 vols. 
 SKETCHES BY "BOZ." 
 CHRISTMAS STORIES. 
 THE PICKWICK PAPERS, 2-vols. 
 BARNABY RUDGE, 2 vols, 
 BLEAK HOUSE, 2 vols 
 AMERICAN NOTES AND PIC- 
 TURES FROM ITALY. 
 
 EDWIN DROOD ; AND OTHER 
 
 STORIES. 
 THE OLD CURIOSITY SHOP, 
 
 2 VOls. 
 
 A CHILD'S HISTORY OF 
 
 ENGLAND. 
 
 DOMBEY AND SON, 2 vols. 
 A TALE OF TWO CITIES. 
 LITTLE DORR IT, 2 vols. 
 MUTUAL FRIEND, 2 vols. 
 HARD TIMES. 
 
 UNCOMMERCIAL TRAVELLER 
 REPRINTED PIECES. 
 
 THE HALF CROWN EDITION. 
 
 PRINTED FROM THE EDITION THAT WAS CAREFULLY CORRECTED BY THE AUTHOR 
 
 IN 1867 AND 1868. 
 
 Complete in 21 vols. Containing the whole of the original Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 
 2s. 6d. each. 
 
 THE PICKWICK PAPERS. With 43 Illustrations by SEYMOUR and PHIZ. 
 BARNABY RUDGE : A Tale of the Riots of 'Eighty. With 76 Illustrations by 
 
 GEORGE CATTERMOLH and H. K. BROWNE. 
 OLIVER TWIST. With 24 Illustrations by CRUIKSHANK. 
 THE OLD CURIOSITY SHOP. With 75 Illustrations by GEORGE CATTER- 
 
 MOLE and H. K. BROWNE. 
 
 DAVID COPPERFIELD. With 40 Illustrations by PHIZ. 
 NICHOLAS NICKLEBY. With 40 Illustrations by PHIZ. 
 MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT. With 40 Illustrations by PHIZ. 
 DOMBEY AND SON. With 40 Illustrations by PHIZ. 
 SKETCHES BY " BOZ." With 40 Illustrations by GEORGE CRUIKSHANK. 
 CHRISTMAS BOOKS. With 64 Illustrations by LANDSEER, DOYLE, MACLISE, 
 
 BLEAK HOUSE. With 40 Illustrations by PHIZ. 
 LITTLE DORRIT. Wiih 40 Illustrations by PHIZ. 
 CHRISTMAS STORIES, from "Household Words." 
 
 DALZIEL, GREEN, MAHONEY, etc. 
 AMERICAN NOTES and REPRINTED PIECES. 
 
 MARCUS STONE and F. WAI KER. 
 HARD TIMES and PICTURES FROM ITALY. 
 
 F. WALKER ard MARCUS STONE. 
 A CHILD'S HISTORY OF ENGLAND. With 8 Illustrations by MARCUS 
 
 STONK. 
 
 GREAT EXPECTATIONS. With 8 Illustrations by MARCUS STONE. 
 TALE OF TWO CITIES. With 16 Illustrations by PHIZ. 
 UNCOMMERCIAL TRAVELLER. With 8 Illustrations by MARCUS STONE. 
 OUR MUTUAL FRIEND. With 40 Illustrations by MARCUS STONE. 
 EDWIN DROOD and OTHER STORIES. With 12 Illustrations by LUKE 
 
 FlLDES. 
 
 With 14 Illustrations by 
 
 With 8 Illustrations by 
 
 Wi.h 8 Illustrations by
 
 CHAPMAN & HALL, LIMITED. 
 
 37 
 
 DICKENS'S (CHARLES) WORKS. Continued. 
 
 THE PICTORIAL EDITION, 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 UPWARDS OF NINE HUNDRED ENGRAVINGS. 
 
 Complete in 17 vols. Royal 8vo, 3s. 6d. each. 
 
 DOMBEY AND SON. With 62 
 
 Illustrations by F. BARNARD. 35. 6d. 
 
 DAVID COPPERFIELD. With 
 61 Illustrations by F. BARNARD. 35. 6d. 
 
 NICHOLAS NICKLEBY. With 
 
 59 Illustrations by F. BARNARD. 35. 6d. 
 
 BARNABY RUDGE. With 46 
 Illustrations by F. BARNARD. 35. fid. 
 
 OLD CURIOSITY SHOP. With 39 
 Illustrations by CHARLES GREEN. 35. 6d. 
 
 MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT. With 
 59 Illustrations by F. BARNARD. 35. fid. 
 
 OLIVER TWIST and A TALE OF 
 
 TWO CITIES. With 53 Illustrations by 
 J. MAHONEV and F. HARVARD. 35. fid. 
 
 OUR MUTUAL FRIEND. With 
 58 Illustrations by J. MAHONEY. 35. 6d. 
 
 BLEAK HOUSE. With 61 Illus- 
 trations by F. BARNARD. 35. fid. 
 
 PICKWICK PAPERS. With 57 
 Illustrations by PHIZ. 35. fid. 
 
 LITTt E DORRIT. With 58 Illus- 
 trations by J. MAHONEY. 35. fid. 
 
 GREAT EXPECTATIONS and 
 HARD TIMES. With 50 Illustrations 
 by J. A. FRASER and H. FRENCH. 35. fid. 
 
 AMERICAN NOTES PICTURES 
 FROM ITALY, and A CHILD'S 
 HISTORY OF ENGLAND. With 
 33 Illustrations by FROST, GORDON, 
 THOMSON, and RALSTON. 35. 6d. 
 
 SKETCHES BY "B)Z" and 
 CHRISTMAS BOOKS. With 62 Illus- 
 trations by F. BARNARD. 35. fid. 
 
 CHRISTMAS STORIES and UN- 
 COMMERCIAL TRAVELLER. With 
 49 Illustrations by E. G. DALZIEL. 35. fid. 
 
 EDWIN DROOD, REPRINTED 
 PIECES, AND OTHER STORIES. 
 With 30 Illustrations by L. FILDES, E. G. 
 DALZIEL, and F. BARNARD. 35. fid. 
 
 THE LIFE OF CHARLES 
 DICKENS. By JOHN FORSTER. With 
 40 Illustrations by F. BARNARD and 
 others. 35. 6d. 
 
 THE TWO SHILLING EDITION, 
 
 Each Volume contains a Frontispiece. Crown 8vo, 2s. 
 i . The Volumes now ready are 
 
 DOMBEY AND SON. 
 
 MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT. 
 
 THE PICKWICK PAPERS. 
 
 BLEAK HOUSE. 
 
 OLD CURIOSITY SHOP. 
 
 BARNABY RUDJF. 
 
 DAVID COPPERFIELD. 
 
 NICHOLAS NICKLEBY. 
 
 CHRISTMAS STORIES. 
 
 AMERICAN NOTES. 
 
 HARD TIMES and PICTURES 
 
 FROM ITALY. 
 GREAT EXPECTATIONS. 
 
 OUR MUTUAL FRIEND. 
 CHRISTMAS BOOKS. 
 OLIVER TWIST. 
 LITTLE DORRIT. 
 TALE OF TWO CITIES. 
 UNCOMMERCIAL TRA- 
 VELLER. 
 
 SKETCHES BY ."BOZ." 
 A CHILD'S HISTORY 
 
 ENGLAND. 
 EDWIN DROOD and OTHER 
 
 S TORIES. 
 
 OF 
 
 MR. DICKENS'S READINGS. 
 
 Fcap. 8z'0, sewed. 
 CHRISTMAS CAROL IN PROSE. STORY OF LITTLE DOMBEY. 
 
 CRICKET ON THE HEARTH. POOR TRAVELLER, BOOTS AT 
 is. THE HOLLY-TREE INN, and 
 
 CHIMES: A GOBLIN STORY, is. MRS. GAMP. is.
 
 38 BOOKS PUBLISHED BY 
 
 SCIENCE AND ART 
 
 AND 
 
 TECHNICAL EDUCATION. 
 
 EDITED BY JOHN MILLS, F.R.A.S. 
 
 A Journal for Teachers and Students. 
 
 PRICE SIXPENCE. 
 
 The Journal contains contributions on Science, Art, and Technical Sub- 
 jects by distinguished men ; short papers by prominent teachers ; leading 
 articles; correspondence; answers to the questions set at the May examinations 
 of the Science and Art Department (which will in future be confined to the 
 Magazine, and not be published in separate pamphlet form), and interesting 
 news in connection with the scientific and artistic world. 
 
 With the beginning of a new volume (April I, 1893) the Journal is to be 
 enlarged. 
 
 Whilst retaining the special features which have given it a well-defined 
 constituency to which no other paper directly appeals, it is proposed to give 
 yet more varied matter, superior illustrations, and an improved appearance in 
 type and paper, hoping thereby to make it the most popular sixpenny monthly 
 of this class of literature in the United Kingdom. 
 
 In addition to its purely Science and Art readers, it is hoped to attract 
 others by matter suitable for a large number of people who desire to be made 
 conversant with current topics and new discoveries in Science, but owing to 
 the too exclusively technical and detailed treatment in most magazines cannot 
 now spare the time which is necessary if they would derive much advantage 
 from their perusal. 
 
 A portion of the paper will be devoted and, as a rule, in equal degree to 
 Biographical sketches of leading representatives of Science and Art The 
 doings of the various County Councils will continue to be noted in its pages,, 
 and no pains will be spared in the effort to increase the usefulness of the 
 paper in the propagation of technical information among the many workers 
 under these important bodies. 
 
 TERMS OF SUBSCRIPTION. 
 
 ONE YEAR'S SUBSCRIPTION (including postage) 6s. Od. 
 
 HALF 3s. Od. 
 
 SINGLE COPY .. .. 6d
 
 CHAPMAN & HALL, LIMITED. 39 
 
 Works published at Three Shillings & Sixpence each, 
 
 THE WAIF FROM THE WAVES. A Story of Three Lives, touching tl.is 
 World and another. By CANON KNOX LITTLE. Crown 8vo. 
 
 LIFE ABOARD A BRITISH PRIVATEER IN THE TIME OF QUEEN 
 ANXE. Being the Journal of CAPTAIN WOODES ROGERS. With Notes and Illustra- 
 tions by ROBERT C. LESLIE. New and Cheaper Edition. Crown 8vo. 
 
 THE ST. JAMES'S COOKERY-BOOK. BY LOUISA ROCHFORT, Large 
 crown Svo. 
 
 THE VYVYANS ; or, The Murder in the Rue Bellechasse. By ANDREE HOPE. 
 Crown Svo. 
 
 SUSPECTED. By LOUISA STRATENUS. 
 AUSTRALIAN LIFE. By FRANCIS ADAMS. 
 
 THE SECRET OF THE PRINCESS: a Tale of Country, Camp, Court, 
 Convict, and Cloister Life in Russia. By MRS. SUTHERLAND EDWARDS. 
 
 THE STORY OF HELEN DAVENANT. By VIOLET FANE. 
 A DEPUTY PROVIDENCE. By HENRY MURRAY. 
 
 SPORT : Fox Hunting, Salmon Fishing, Covert Shooting, Deer Stalking. By 
 the late W. BROMLEY DAVENPORT, M.P. With Illustrations by GENERAL CREA- 
 LOCK, C.B. 
 
 LOG-BOOK OF A FISHERMAN AND ZOOLOGIST. By FRANK BUCK- 
 LAND. With Illustrations. Fifth Thousand. 
 
 THE HABITS OF THE SALMON. By MAJOR TRAHERNE. 
 
 ENGLAND : ITS PEOPLE, POLITY, AND PURSUITS. By T. H. S. 
 ESCOTT. New and Revised Edition. 
 
 JESUS CHRIST; GOD; AND GOD AND MAN. Conferences delivered 
 at Notre Dame in Paris. By PERE LACORDAIRB. Seventh Thousand. 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS. OF MY YOUTH. By ERNEST RENAN. Translated 
 from the French and revised by Madame RKNAN. Second Edition. 
 
 HUMAN ORIGINS: EVIDENCE FROM HISTORY AND SCIENCE. 
 By SAMUEL LAING. With Illustrations. Twelfth Thousand. 
 
 PROBLEMS OF THE FUTURE AND ESSAYS. By SAMUEL LAING. 
 
 Thirteenth Thousand. 
 MODERN SCIENCE AND MODERN THOUGHT. By SAMUEL LAING. 
 
 Seventeenth Thousand. 
 A MODERN ZOROASTRIAN. By SAMUEL LAING. Eighth Thousand. 
 
 THE SCIENCE OF LANGUAGE: LINGUISTICS, PHILOLOGY, AND 
 ETYMOLOGY. By ABKL HOVELACQUE. With Maps. 
 
 SOCIOLOGY. Based upon Ethnology. By DR. CHARLES LETOURNEAU. 
 BIOLOGY. By DR. CHARLES LETOURNEAU. With 83 Illustrations. 
 PHILOSOPHY, Historical and Critical. By ANDRE LEFEVRE. 
 
 ANTHROPOLOGY. By DR. PAUL TOPINARD. With a Preface by PROFESSOR 
 PAUL BROCA. With 49 Illustrations. 
 
 ESTHETICS. By EUGENE VERON.
 
 CHAPMAN & HALL, LIMITED. 
 
 THE FORTNIGHTLY REVIEW. 
 
 'THE FORTNIGHTLY REVIEW is published on the ist of 
 every month, and a Volume is completed every Six Months. 
 
 The following are among the Contributors : 
 
 ADMIRAL LORD ALCESTER. 
 
 SIR RUTHERFORD ALCOCK. 
 
 PROFESSOR BAIN. 
 
 SIR SAMUEL BAKER. 
 
 SIR R. BALL, F.R.S. 
 
 PROFESSOR BEESLY. 
 
 PAUL BOURGET. 
 
 DR. BRIDGES. 
 
 HON. GEORGE C. BRODRICK. 
 
 FERDINAND BRUNETIERE. 
 
 JAMES BRYCE, M.P. 
 
 EMILIO CASTELAR. 
 
 RT. HON. J. CHAMBERLAIN, M.P. 
 
 PROFESSOR SIDNEY COLVIN. 
 
 THE EARL COMPTON. 
 
 MONTAGUE COOKSON, Q.C. 
 
 L. H. COURTNEY, M.P. 
 
 G. H. DARWIN. 
 
 PROFESSOR A. V. DICEY. 
 
 RIGHT HON. SIR C. DILKE, BART. 
 
 PROFESSOR DOWDEN. 
 
 RT. HON. M. E. GRANT DUFF. 
 
 ARCHDEACON FARRAR. 
 
 EDWARD A. FREEMAN. 
 
 J. A. FROUDE. 
 
 MRS. GARRET-ANDERSON, M.D. 
 
 J. W. L. GLAISHER, F.R.S. 
 
 SIR J. E. GORST, Q.C., M.P. 
 
 THOMAS HARE. 
 
 FREDERIC HARRISON. 
 
 ADMIRAL SIR G. P. HORNBY. 
 
 LORD HOUGHTON. 
 
 PROFESSOR HUXLEY. 
 
 PROFESSOR R. C. JEBB. 
 
 LADY JEUNE. 
 
 LORD KELVIN, P.R.S. 
 
 ANDREW LANG. 
 
 E. B. LANIN. 
 
 EMILE DE LAVELEYE. 
 
 W. E. H. LECKY. 
 
 T. E. CLIFFE LESLIE. 
 
 W. S. LILLY. 
 
 MARQUIS OF LORNE. 
 
 PIERRE LOTI. 
 
 SIR JOHN LUBBOCK, BART., M.P. 
 
 W. H. MALLOCK. 
 
 DR. MAUDSLEY. 
 
 PROFESSOR MAX MULLER. 
 
 GEORGE MEREDITH. 
 
 RT. HON. G. OSBORNE MORGAN, 
 
 Q.C., M.P. 
 
 RT. HON. JOHN MORLEY, M.P. 
 WILLIAM MORRIS. 
 PROFESSOR H. N. MOSELEY. 
 F. W. H. MYERS. 
 F. W. NEWMAN. 
 PROFESSOR JOHN NICHOL. 
 W. G. PA LG RAVE. 
 WALTER H. PATER. 
 RT. HON. LYON PLAYFAIR, M.P. 
 SIR HENRY POTTINGER, BART. 
 T. E. REDMOND, M.P. 
 PROFESSOR SAYCE. 
 PROFESSOR J. R. SEELEY. 
 LORD SHERBROOKE. 
 PROFESSOR SIDGWICK. 
 HERBERT SPENCER. 
 M. JULES SIMON. 
 
 (DOCTOR L'ACADEMIE FRANCAISE). 
 HON. E. L. STANLEY. 
 SIR J. FITZJ AMES STEPHEN, Q.C. 
 LESLIE STEPHEN. 
 J. HUTCHISON STIRLING. 
 A. C. SWINBURNE. 
 DR. VON SYBEL 
 J. A. SYMONDS. 
 SIR THOMAS SYMONDS. 
 (ADMIRAL OF THE FLEEV). 
 THE REV. EDWARD F. TALBOT 
 
 (WARDEN OF KEBLE COLLEGE). 
 SIR RICHARD TEMPLE, BART. 
 HON. LIONEL A. TOLLEMACHE. 
 COUNT LEO TOLSTOI. 
 H. D. TRAILL. 
 PROFESSOR TYNDALL. 
 ALFRED RUSSELL WALLACE. 
 SIDNEY WEBB. 
 A. J. WILSON. 
 
 GEN. VISCOUNT WOLSELEY. 
 THE EDITOR. 
 
 ETC., ETC., ETC. 
 
 THE FORTNIGHTLY REVIEW is published at 2s. 6<t. 
 
 CHAPMAN & HALL, LIMITED, 11, HENRIETTA STREET, 
 COVENT GARDEN, W.C. 
 
 F. M. EVANS AND CO., LIMITED, CRYSTAL PAL/.CE, S.E.
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY 
 
 Los Angeles 
 This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. 
 
 4 FormL9-50m-4,'61(B8994s4)444 
 'AT
 
 A 000 499 340 8 
 
 r^**S3*w3a 
 B3^J6^tf9K!