Ex Libris C. K. OGDEN v THE RIGHT HONOURABLE ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH % THE RIGHT HONOURABLE ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH COMPILED BY HIS COUSIN SARAH L. STEELE FROM PAPERS CHIEFLY UNPUBLISHED Does the road wind up-hill all the way ? Yes, to the very end. CHRISTINA ROSSETTI WITH PORTRAIT Pontoon MACMILLAN AND CO. AND NEW YORK I 891 All rights reserved TO HIS CHILDREN AND GRANDCHILDREN 2017839 PREFACE ONE beautiful January morning, with the blue expanse of the Bay of Naples shimmering under our windows in the sunlight, I received a letter which changed all our plans for the year. It was to ask me to undertake the Biography, now placed before the public, of my cousin Arthur Mac- Murrough Kavanagh. It has been a labour of love, of love both to the dead and the living, and though I feel very deeply how inadequately I have portrayed that noble life, yet I have striven with all my heart to do it justice. My object has not been to make an exhaustive Biography. It has rather been to show, as much as possible in his own words, how, deprived as he neces- sarily was of the usual course of education, his early life of travel, assisted by his own keen observation and self-reliance, made good that loss ; how his character thus moulded gave him the high place he filled in the esteem of those whose opinion is of value ; how his thoughtful work for his own people x PREFACE and for his country was unweariedly carried on through difficulty and disappointment ; and how he strove for no other reward than the approval of his conscience and of his God. I could never have undertaken the task but for the guidance and co-operation of my husband. From the beginning to the end his ungrudging help was always ready, and his deep appreciation of Mr. Kavanagh's rare qualities rendered it doubly effective. My cordial thanks must also be given to those whose greater knowledge of various portions of Mr. Kavanagh's life and work was so loyally placed at my disposal. To Mrs. Kavanagh first, then to Mrs. Bruen, the Bishop of Ossory, the Bishop of Cork, Lord Courtown, Mr. Sweetman, J.P., Mr. J. F. Vesey- Fitzgerald, Mr. G. D. Burtchaell, and the Rev. G. W. Rooke. My acknowledgments are also due to the Right Hon. W. H. Smith, the Right Hon. G. J. Goschen, and the Right Hon. J. Chamberlain, for valuable material they allowed me to publish ; and, further, to my sister Mrs. Meredyth, Mr. T. E. Kebbel, and Mr. C. A. Cooper of Edinburgh, for incidental assistance. Mrs. Alexander's beautiful verses which close the Biography need no comment from me beyond this word of gratitude for the privilege of publishing them. I cannot conclude without expressing the earnest PREFACE xi hope that this imperfect record of one "of whom the world was not worthy," whose whole life revealed the humble submission of a Christian, united to the manly chivalry of a noble race, may not have told its story in vain. SARAH L. STEELE. FLORENCE, Christmas Eve, 1 890. CONTENTS CHAPTER I Kings of Leinster, I ; Strongbow and Eva Kavanagh, 2 ; Art More MacMorrough and Richard II, 2 ; Art Boy MacMorrough, 3 ; Baron of Ballyan, 3 ; Thomas Kavanagh of Borris, Esq., M.P., 4; His two marriages, 5; The Austrian branch, 5 ; The " Empress - King," 5 ; General Dermitius Kavanagh, 5 > A Styrian churchyard, 6 ; Family relics, 7 ; Crown of Kings of Leinster, 7 ; Charter horn, 7 ; Book of St. Moling, 7. CHAPTER II Arthur MacMurrough Kavanagh : his birth, 8 ; Placed at Celbridge, 8 ; Intro- duced to his cousins, 9 ; Sir Philip Crampton, 9 ; Holiday games, 10 ; Fishing for ducks, 10 ; Residence at St. Germains, n ; The Villa Strozzi at Rome, 12 ; "Arthur's Hymn," 12. CHAPTER III Borris House, 13 ; Borris Chapel, 13 ; House besieged in 1641, 14 ; Second siege in '98, 14; A promise ! 15 ; Rout of the rebels, 15 ; Borris demesne, 15; Borris brook, 15 ; Barrow scenery, 16 ; Drummond Lodge, 17. CHAPTER IV Egypt The 'wilderness The Holy Land, 18 ; Narrow escape on the Nile, 19 ; "Dougal M'Tavish," 21 ; Purchases, 21 ; Sport on the Nile, 23 ; A desert encampment, 24 ; Jerusalem, 25 ; Miraculous stone, 25 ; In favour with the Bedouins, 26 ; Revolution of '48 at Marseilles, 27 ; Hadji Mohammed, 27 ; Lufraand Gwherda, 27 ; Love of animals, 28 ; Another narrow escape, 28 ; Smith O'Brien's rebellion, 29. CHAPTER V Tom's majority, 30 ; Start once more for the East, 30 ; Fair of Nijni-Novgorod, 31 ; Air-beds, 32^; Volga scenery, 32 ; Kasan, 33 ; Cuisine on the Volga, 33; "Les ames' damnees," 34; Encampment of Calmuc Tartars, 35; xiv CONTENTS Arrival at Astrakhan, 35 ; Anti-combustion regulations, 36 ; Gale on the Caspian, 37; 111 -bestowed hospitality, 37; Arrival at Baku, 38; Fire- worshippers, 38 ; Wild scenery, 39 ; Turcoman horsemen, 40 ; "In durance vile," 40; A useful dog, 41 ; Narrow escape, 42 ; Arrival at Teheran, 44. CHAPTER VI Embassy at Teheran, 45 ; Servant in fever, 45 ; Instantaneous recovery, 46 ; Himself in fever, 47 ; A Persian prince, 47 ; A miserable Christmas Day, 48 ; Is lodged in the harem, 48 ; Touching stories, 49 ; Tabriz, 49 ; Pur- chase of horses, 49; Coursing hares, 50; Lake of Urumiah, 51 ; Terrible weather, 52 ; Deep snow, 52 ; A fruitless expedition, 53 ; Snow and salt ! 53 ; A wretched voyage, 54 ; Nestorian missionaries, 55 ; A new servant, 56 ; Our larder gone ! 57 ; A Kourdish village, 57 ; Handsome natives, 57. CHAPTER VII Reception by Kourdish Governor, 59 ; Magnificent costumes, 60 ; Unsatisfactory dinner, 61 ; Khan refuses his medicine, 6 1 ; Soda-water springs, 63 ; Up to the saddle-girths in snow, 63 ; Dinner under difficulties, 64 ; Floundering through snow, 65 ; A dangerous mountain pass, 66 ; On guard at the gate- way, 67 ; Coat and rifle stolen, 67 ; Messrs. Conolly and Studdert, 68 ; Mr. Layard and Dr. Sandwith, 69; Nineveh, 70; Arrival at Bagdad, 71 ; A malodorous rencontre, 72 ; Tower of Babel, 72. CHAPTER VIII Departure from Bagdad, 73 ; " Old Woman's Pass," 74 ; On the march to Shiraz, 75; " Praesentior Deus!"76; Arrival at Shiraz, 77; Tombs of Sadi and Hafiz, 77 ; A plague of locusts, 78 ; Tomb of Darius, 79 ; In- vitation to dine with the Khan, 80; The Khan's dog, 81 ; The Prince- Governor, 81 ; "Pride feels no pain," 82. CHAPTER IX Ispahan, 83 ; Again in fever, 83 ; Escort of soldiers, 85 ; A plague of scorpions, 86 ; Hill-side on fire, 87 ; A mountain pass, 88 ; Colonel Williams (after- wards of Kars), 89 ; Mr. Wood's severe illness, 89 ; Summer encampment, 90; "A hell upon earth," 91 ; Poisonous spiders, 92; "Plait a Dieu," 93 ; Plain of Aleshtan, 95 ; Unpaid taxes, 96 ; The Government asserts itself, 96 ; Playing the jereed, 97 ; Curious arch, 97 ; Pretty gipsy girls, 98 ; At the mercy of our escort, 99. CHAPTER X To Bombay, 100 ; Ill-arranged commissariat, 100 ; Island of Ormuz, 101 ; A squall, 102 ; Everything adrift, 102 ; Muscat, 103 ; Flying fish, 103 ; Bombay, 104; Letters from home, 104; Purchase of horses, 105; Sporting expedition, 106 ; A multitude of servants, 106 ; Start for Poonah, 107 ; The traveller's bungalow, 107 ; A tremendous rat, 108 ; Beautiful birds, 109 ; " Pie-crusts again ! " 109 ; " Notice to quit," 1 10 ; A fox-hunt, 1 1 1 ; Black buck deer, 112 ; An uncomfortable night, 113. CONTENTS CHAPTER XI Aurungabad, 115 ; Review of the Nizam's irregular horse, 115 ; The first tiger, 116; Curious ancient fort, 118; Caves of Ellora, 119; Fair sport, 119; Adjunta, 119; Peacock vice tiger, 120; Another tiger killed, 121; The camel and the tiger, 121; A herd of pigs, 122; More tigers, 123; The last tiger, 125; A good bag, 125; Left alone, 125; Tom's death, 126; Mr. Wood's death, 126; Carrier of despatches, 126; In the Survey De- partment, 126; A solemn resolution, 127; Return to Ireland, 127. CHAPTER XII Takes possession of the property, 128 ; Marriage, 129 ; Improvements at Borris, 129; Lady Harriet Kavanagh, 129; Greek lace, 129; Borris lace, 130; Railway to Borris, 130; Mr. Mott, 130; Ballyragget, 130; Scenery of Ballyragget, 131 ; Feudal castle, 131 ; Anne Boleyn, 131 ; Elected Guardian of New Ross Poorhouse, 131 ; Great disorder there, 131 ; Mr. Sweetman, J.P., 132; Roman Catholic Chapel at New Ross Poorhouse, ^33 > Saw-mill on the brook, 134 ; Early morning rides, 134 ; The old oak- tree, 134 ; The chieftain among his vassals, 135 ; The " Father Confessor," 135; Christmas gifts to the poor, 135 ; Sunday afternoons, 136; "Miss Nolan," 136; Borris Chapel, 137; Entries in diary, 137. CHAPTER XIII Love ol sport, 139; Love of nature, 140; A very young bear, 140; "Bessy" sent away, 141 ; Monkeys, 141 ; "jack," 141 ; "II bravo cacciatore," 142 ; "Poor Jack!" 142; "Nelson," 142; An adventure in Albania, 143; Fox- hunting in Ireland, 144 ; A perilous leap, 144 ; Sells off hunters and harriers, 144 ; Fishing on Irish lakes, 145 ; A cruise to the North Cape, 145; A visit from a whale, 145; Lobsters, 146 ; A sea-nymph, 146; Nocturnal daylight, 147 ; Magnificent scenery, 147 ; Near Drontheim, 147 ; Magic effect of sunshine, 148; Hammerfest, 149 ; The Pasvig River, 149 ; Mosquitoes, 149; Salmon-fishing, 150; The Russian Lapps, 151 ; Scarcity of meat, 151 ; Bag, 152; Bag of 1865, 152. CHAPTER XIV Builds the Eva, 153; Walter's illness, 153; Letter to Mrs. Kavanagh, 153; On the voyage to Malta, 155; Love of the sea, 155; Yacht-racing, 156; "Neck and neck," 157 ; The Eva wins, 158; To Corfu, 158; Albanian dogs, 159; A typical specimen, 159; The lamb's trust, 160 ; A bathing adventure, 160 ; Photography, 161 ; Cession of Ionian Islands, 162; Back into harness, 162. CHAPTER XV Wishes to enter Parliament, 163; Dissuaded, 163; Proposes Captain Pack Beresford, 164; The duties of property, 165; Contests Wexford, 167; Defeats Mr. (now Sir John) Pope Hennessy, 167 ; The Fenian rising, 167 ; Nocturnal reconnoitring, 167; Revives privilege for yachting M.P.s, 168 ; Cruise round the Dutch Coast, 1 68 ; Conflagration at Antwerp, 168 : Roast apples, 171 ; Returned unopposed for County Carlow, 171 ; The model members, 171. CONTENTS CHAPTER XVI Poor Law (Ireland) Amendment Bill, 173; The Star on his maiden speech, 173; The maiden speech, 175; Note from the Speaker, 1825 " speech of the night was Kavanagh's," 182. The CHAPTER XVII Peace Preservation Act, 183 ; Defends his own constituents, 187; Intoxicating Liquor Bill, 189; His conduct on the Bench, 190; A murder case, 191 ; Poaching, 191; Flogging in the army and navy, 192. CHAPTER XVIII His eldest son's majority, 193; Congratulatory address, 193; The priest's speech, 194 ; He introduces his son, 194 ; Toast of " Our Landlord," 199 ; He returns thanks, 200; The tenants betray him, 201 ; Hostile demon- strations in Borris, 202 ; Letter to Mrs. Kavanagh, 202 ; The new Irish representation, 203 ; Mr. Gladstone, 203 ; In the press and on the plat- form, 204. CHAPTER XIX Work for the Church, 205 ; Patronage in the Church of Ireland, 206 ; Episcopal endowment, 206 ; Member of representative body, 207 ; New constitution for the Church of Ireland, 208 ; Revision of the Book of Common Prayer, 209 ; His liberality towards the Church, 211 ; Diocesan Nominator, 212 ; Tribute to Rev. Dr. Jellett, 213. CHAPTER XX The Bessborough Commission, 215; Refuses signature to report, 215; Draws up separate report, 215 ; Meeting of Irish landlords, 216 ; Censures Sub-Com- missioners, 216; Formation of the Land League, 218; Its terrorism, 218; The Irish Land Committee, 219; Emergency Committee, 219; Property Defence Association, 219; Mansion House (London) Committee, 220; A broken holiday, 220 ; Irish Defence Union, 220 ; Land League tactics, 221 ; The Land Corporation of Ireland, 222 ; Its object, 223 ; Privileges of Irish tenant - farmers, 225 ; Anti-Plan of Campaign Association, 225 ; Derelict Land Trust, 226 ; Death of his second son, 226 ; Resigned to God's will, 227 ; Lord Charles Beresford, 227 ; East window in Borris Chapel, 227 ; Verses by the Bishop of Ossory, 228. CHAPTER XXI Mr. (now Sir) G. O. Trevelyan on the two Irelands, 229 ; Loyal and disloyal, 233 ; Education abused, 235 ; Agitation made easy, 236 ; Atheist and ecclesiastic, 237; Communist and business - man, 238, 239; The Roman Catholic Hierarchy, 239 ; Its influence declining, 241 ; Infidelity and Socialism, 242; What does Home Rule mean, 243. CONTENTS xvii CHAPTER XXII American sympathy and support, 245 ; The Ballot Act, 246 ; The Three Fs, 247 ; Financial scare and its effects, 248 ; Murder and murder, 249 ; Mr. Trevelyan's service in the cause of order, 250 ; Statistics of agrarian crime, 251 ; Ribbon Society, 253; The Irish informer conspicuous by absence, 255 ; An Irish St. Bartholomew's day, 255 ; Mr. Forster's foresight, 255 ; The " last link " speech, 256 ; Remedies proposed for Irish difficulty, 257 ; Analysis of the Irish character, 259 ; A peasant-proprietary, 259. CHAPTER XXIII Death of Lady Harriet Kavanagh, 261 ; Her high culture, 261 ; Funeral at St. Mullins, 262 ; Disturbed Ireland, 262 ; The note of warning, 263 ; Prosecutions at Petty Sessions inadequate, 264 ; The lowered franchise, 264 ; Mr. John Morley appointed Chief Secretary, 265 ; Identity of the Land and National League, 266 ; Boycotting, 266 ; The reign of terror, 266 ; Attempt to ruin the Bank of Ireland, 267 ; Attack on Cork Steam- ship Company, 267 ; Recommends a Unionist coalition, 269. CHAPTER XXIV Mr. Gladstone's -volte-face, 271; His "insane bills," 271; Mr. Kavanagh's suggestions as to future policy, 272 ; The " British Constitution," 273 ; " Coercion," 275 ; The Land Question, 276 ; Dual ownership intolerable, 277 ; The Purchase Acts, 279 ; Local Government for Ireland, 285. CHAPTER XXV Failing health, 286 ; End to Castle Government, 287 ; A royal residence, 287 ; Two secretaries for Ireland, 287 ; Modification of Irish Privy Council, 287 ; Deterioration in breed of cattle, 288 ; Letter to Right Hon. G. J. Goschen, 288 ; Letter to Right Hon. W. H. Smith, 293 ; The Right Hon. J. Chamberlain, 293 ; Recapitulation of views on remedial legisla- tion, 294-296; Successes of Land Corporation, 296; Mr. Hurlbert's "Three Fs," 297; Right Hon. A. J. Balfour, 297; Serious illness, 299 ; Attends all meetings and boards as usual, 299 ; Present at naval review off Spithead, 300 ; Last cruise of the Water Lily, 300 ; Rapidly increasing illness, 300 ; Death, 300. Epilogue, 301. Verses by Mrs. Alexander, 303. ILLUSTRATIONS PORTRAIT . . . . . to face Title-page VIEW OF BORRIS HOUSE . . . to face page 13 FACSIMILE OF WRITING . '. : . 138 MEMORIAL CROSS . . . . after the Epilogue THE RIGHT HONOURABLE ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH PROEM His strength was as the strength of ten, Because his heart was pure. TENNYSON. AMID all the beautiful scenery of Ireland, no lovelier view can be found than that from the ancestral home of the Kavanaghs. Green levels of lawn and wood carry the eye to where in the distance the Barrow winds down to the sea, and on the left to the deer-park hill, where, among trees and fern and almost within hearing of the brook he loved so well, sleeps the noblest son of all that kingly race in a small ruined church, now consecrated as the family burying-ground. His physical privations, overcome by sheer principle and pluck two of his most signal characteristics never debarred him from mingling with his fellows, and fulfilling all the duties of a resident Irish land- lord. For many years he served his country in Parliament from 1866 to 1868 as member for the County of Wexford, and from 1868 to 1880 as member for the County of Carlow from which latter he was unseated in circumstances which ever after painfully affected him. From that time till the close of his life, though xxiv PROEM shut out from the Legislature, he still assisted with his clear judgment and well-balanced mind in all schemes set on foot for the benefit of Ireland, chiefly in devising and working the Land Corporation, which, if properly supported, would have neutralised the Land League, and conferred untold blessings on the country. The rehabilitation of the Church in Ireland also engrossed much of his time and thought. Indeed while neglecting nothing for the best interests of his own tenantry he spared no effort on behalf of the people at large. And when the summons came to "go up higher," all knew that at this crisis of her history Ireland had lost the ungrudged and ill-requited service of one of the truest patriots she ever possessed. CHAPTER I This was the noblest Roman of them all. SHAKESPEARE. No family in the British Islands can point to a more ancient pedigree than the Kavanaghs. They can trace it back to the dawn of Irish history. Tradition, indeed, carries it far beyond that limit to the legendary foretime, nay, even to the fabulous Feniusa of Scythia, coeval with the Tower of Babel, whose descendants, having wandered into Egypt, found their way back again to Scythia, and thence to Spain, from which country Heber and Heremon, the two sons of Gallamh or Milesius, crossed over to Ireland, reduced it to subjection, and divided it between them. From them sprang lines of kings ruling over the five monarchies into which the island was split up. " One branch of the descendants of Heremon event- ually established themselves as kings of Leinster (writes the accomplished scholar and antiquary, Mr. G. D. Burtchaell), and from Murchadh, or Morrough, King of Leinster, in the eleventh century, the family became known as MacMorrough, or the 'Sons of Morrough.' The grandson of this monarch was , Dermot MacMorrough, King of Leinster, surnamed 2 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. na-nGall, that is, 'of the Strangers,' who invited the Normans to Ireland in 1167. " Dermot, in order to secure the support of Richard de Clare, Earl of Pembroke, surnamed Strongbow, to re-establish himself in his kingdom, from which he had been expelled, agreed to give him his daughter Eva in marriage. On the death of Dermot in 1171, Strongbow claimed the throne of Leinster in right of his wife, and in defiance of Irish law and custom. He was soon obliged to renounce his pretensions to establishing himself as an independent sovereign, and surrendered his rights as such to King Henry the Second. " Dermot, however, had left a son, Donell, surnamed Caomhanach, or Kavanagh, which means the * Hand- some.' His descendants claimed to be lawfully entitled to be kings of Leinster, and were from time to time successful in defying the English power and asserting their rights. " Of these descendants the most renowned was Art MacMorrough, son of Art ' More,' or the Great, at whose 'puissance,' says the chronicler, 'all Leinster trembled.' He re-established the sway of his clan over the greater part of their former territories. In right of his wife he became entitled to lands in the County Kildare, which, however, were declared by the English Government in Ireland to be forfeited by reason of her marriage with an ' Irish enemy.' Art determined that he would merit this title, and became so formidable to the English power that Richard the Second came over in person to oppose him. An amicable arrangement was concluded by which Art accepted other lands in place of those of which he was deprived, and in consideration of a pension surrendered his rights to the King. He did homage, swore ART BOY MACMORROUGH allegiance, and, together with the other kings of Ireland, received knighthood from King Richard's hands in circumstances of great pomp in Christ Church Cathedral, Dublin. The compact was very soon broken, and Art renewed hostilities. King Richard was obliged to visit Ireland a second time, but failed to make any impression on the Irish monarch, who vowed that not for all the gold in the world would he again submit. From that time till his death in 1417 he waged incessant war against the English colony, and helped to reduce the Pale within the narrowest bounds. " After his death the power of the clan gradually declined, and Art More's descendants became divided into several rival houses. " One of the junior lines was that of St. Mullins 1 and Polmonty. Art Boy MacMorrough, alias Kavanagh, of Borris and St. Mullins, County Carlow, and Pol- monty, County Wexford, was father of Cahir Mac Art, who succeeded in getting the English Government to recognise him as chief of his name on acknowledging himself an English subject. " In 1553 he was rewarded by being created Baron of Ballyan for life his eldest son Morgan receiving at the same time the title of Baron of Cowellellyn. " The line was carried on by the Baron of Ballyan's fourth son, Brian MacCahir of Borris and Polmonty. He died in 1575, having married Elizabeth, daughter of Hugh O'Bryne of the County Wicklow, by whom he left several children. " The eldest son, Morgan Kavanagh of Borris and Polmonty, was Member of Parliament for County 1 Pronounced Mullins the accent on the last syllable. Ryan (History of Carlow) spells it "Molines." 4 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. Carlow 1613 to 1615, and died igth of June 1636. " By his first wife Elinor, daughter of Edmund second Viscount Mountgarret, he had sixteen chil- dren, of whom Brian, the eldest son, succeeded his father. " Brian Kavanagh was fortunate in being able to preserve his estate from the general confiscation which took place after the reduction of Ireland by Cromwell, and died ist December 1662. His second wife was Eleanor, daughter of Sir Edmund Blancheville of > Blanchevillestown, County Kilkenny, and Lady Eliza- beth Butler, daughter of Walter eleventh Earl of Ormonde and aunt of the great Duke of Ormonde. "His only son Morgan, the issue of this marriage, succeeded, and died in the reign of Queen Anne. He married Mary, daughter of Thomas Walsh of Pilltown, County Waterford, by Ellen, daughter of John Lord le Poer of Curraghmore, and was succeeded by his only son, also Morgan, who was born in 1668, and died 226. February 1722. By his first wife Frances, daughter of Sir Laurence Esmonde, Bart., of Clonegal, County Carlow, and Lucia, eldest daughter of Colonel Richard Butler, the great Duke of Ormonde's brother, he had three sons, of whom Charles, the second, entered the Imperial army and died Governor of Prague in 1766. " The eldest son Brian succeeded his father, and died 22d April 1741, leaving by Mary his wife, eldest daughter of Colonel Thomas Butler of Kilcash, a son and heir Thomas." Thomas married in 1755 Lady Susanna Butler, daughter of Walter Butler of Garryricken, sister of John seventeenth Earl of Ormonde, and died in 1 790, leaving several sons and daughters, of whom Thomas, THE AUSTRIAN BRANCH the fourth son, born March 1767, inherited the family estates. Thomas sat as M.P. for the city of Kilkenny in the last Irish Parliament, and after the Union repre- sented the County Carlow in the last two Parliaments of George the Fourth, and the first of William the Fourth. He married first, on the 24th March 1799, Lady Elizabeth Butler, daughter of John seventeenth Earl of Ormonde, and by her, who died in 1822, he had issue, Walter, who died in 1836, and nine daughters, of whom six died spinsters and three were married the eldest, Anne, to Colonel Henry Bruen of Oak Park, County Carlow, M.P. (whose son was afterwards Arthur's colleague in Parliament from 1868 till 1880). Mr. Kavanagh married secondly, on 28th February 1825, Lady Harriet Margaret Le Poer Trench, daughter of Richard, second Earl of Clancarty, and left at his decease in 1837 Thomas, who died at Batavia on a voyage to Australia for his health in 1852 ; Charles, also unmarried, an officer in the yth Hussars, who died in 1853 ; Harriet Margaret, who died 7th May 1876, widow of Colonel W. A. Middleton, C.B., D.A.G., R.A., at the Horse Guards, and Arthur MacMurrough, the subject of the present biography. A few words may here suffice for the Austrian branch of the family. Among the archives at Borris House some old letters, written in German, very faded and hard to read, make mention of one Baron Kavanagh who was chamberlain to the " Empress- King," Maria Theresa, and of another Kavanagh who was chamber- lain to her son, the Emperor Joseph the Second. These are most probably General Dermitius (the Latinised form of Dermot) Kavanagh of Hauskirchen, 6 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP, who died in or about 1750, and his brother-in-law, Baron John Baptist Kavanagh of Ginditz in Bohemia, to whom he left the Hauskirchen estates. John Baptist died in 1774, and the property seems to have been for some time without a claimant. According to the letters above referred to, a Baron Kavanagh towards the close of last century, when on a tour in Carinthia and Styria, wandered into a village churchyard and suddenly came upon a monument erected to one of his name. He drew the custodian's attention to the inscription on the tablet and asked to which Kavanagh it referred. The man told him the deceased had left no heir ; that for a quarter of a century the estate which had belonged to him had remained without an owner ; and that by Austrian law it must at the end of twenty-seven years revert to the Crown. Baron Kavanagh, who seems to have been Maurice, only son of John Baptist, Baron of Ginditz, and to have unaccountably permitted his rights to lapse, investigated the affair. It was a condition that the property must always be held by a Kavanagh, and finding that, as the next of kin, he him- self was the heir, he successfully vindicated his title. Maurice, who thus became "seized and possessed" of the estate of Hauskirchen, died unmarried in 1801 at Ofen in Hungary, a general of cavalry and com- mander-in-chief in that country. There being again no direct heir to the property, it must have reverted to the Austrian Crown unless claimed within twenty -seven years, when, in 1818, Walter Kavanagh, Esq., of Borris, at that time its rightful owner, renounced his title to it in favour of his cousin Count Henry Kavanagh an officer in the Imperial army. FAMILY RELICS The legal instrument by which this renunciation was effected seems to have been vitiated by a technical flaw, in that the consent of the Austrian Government to the transfer had not previously been obtained. The renunciation thus became invalid, and as Mr. Kavanagh failed to assert his rights to the property, a nephew of the last possessor, Count Schaffgotsch, became the owner. The representative of the Austrian branch of the family is now Baron Harry Kavanagh, who lives near Rohitsch in Styria. Among the family relics preserved at Borris were the old crown and charter horn of the kings of Leinster. In the troubles of '98 they were removed for safe keeping to Dublin, and deposited in Trinity College. When tranquillity was restored and they had to be given up, the crown was not forthcoming. It had mysteriously disappeared, and no clue to it could be found. Years afterwards there was a report that it had turned up at Toulouse, but nothing more was heard of it, and even the report was not authenticated. The charter horn, however a large fluted cornu- copia of ivory mounted in brass and resting on a brass eagle was restored, and is still an heirloom at Borris House. Mention should also be made of another relic, the Book of St. Moling, still shown in the library of Trinity College : a piece of Irish work of great antiquity, made of leather and mounted in silver, on the model of the ancient Egyptian book-satchels. It was long in possession of the Kavanaghs as Chiefs of Idrone, whose tutelary saint, St. Moling, gives his name to the Abbey of St. Mullins. CHAPTER II Non sine Dis animosus infans. HOR. Car. iii. 4. 20. By the gods' peculiar grace No craven-hearted child. SIR THEODORE MARTIN. ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH, third son of the late Thomas Kavanagh, Esq., M.P., by his second wife, Lady Harriet Margaret Le Poer Trench, was born at B orris House 25th March 1831. From the outset it was manifest that his up- bringing must be different from that of other men, born, as he was, without limbs. But it soon became equally apparent that his was a nature that would rise above every disqualification and fit him to bear no common part in the battle of life. In 1839 he was placed in the house of the Rev. Samuel Greer, curate of Celbridge in the County Kildare, for two reasons : first, that, being at Cel- bridge, he would be under the eye of Colonel Conolly of Castletown, his mother's cousin, on whose judgment she placed the fullest reliance, and, second, that he might have the companionship of the younger Conolly children of Mary, now wife of the Right Hon. Henry Bruen of Oak Park, County Carlow ; Fanny, who died unmarried in 1874; and Richard, whose EARLY BOYHOOD death occurred in 1870 when attache to the Legation at Pekin. With them his weekly half-holidays were spent, and the recollections of those boyish days sent me by Mrs. Bruen I cannot do better than transcribe, to show the early promise which was so nobly fulfilled in later life : " We first became acquainted with Arthur when he was put under the charge of a good clergyman of high scholarly attainments the Rev. Samuel Greer, who was curate of Celbridge, the village at the gate of Castletown, my father's place. " As well as I can recollect, it must have been about the year 1839 or 1840 when, on our return from Donegal, where we usually spent the autumn months, as my father was M.P. for that county, we met Arthur as we were walking with our nurse my youngest brother, my sister and myself in the grounds of Castletown. " I remember well this first meeting with the merry- looking, very fair-haired boy, riding his pony, and in the most fearless way trying to get it through a very narrow gate. Of course he succeeded (as he usually did in whatever he attempted, even at that early age), to the admiration of us, his cousins, and from that day we became dear friends, drawn to him by his singularly engaging manner, so genial, so manly, so full of sympathy a most delightful boy who came into the routine of our young lives like a sunbeam. "So bright and full of fun was he that the days when we did not meet him in our walks were com- paratively dull. " I suppose he must have been placed with Mr. Greer partly in order to be within reach of the great Dublin surgeon, Sir Philip Crampton, whose rare io ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. professional skill, it was hoped, might devise some mechanism to make up for what had been denied him in physical development. This must have been a most trying ordeal to his fine unselfish nature, so light- hearted as he was, so grandly submissive in his sense of privation. Much pain, great discomfort, and con- tinual disappointment were all that came of it, borne, however, so uncomplainingly that one must feel they were not the only result ; while the sympathy from us, his child-friends, so gladly and lovingly received by him, drew him nearer to us than aught else could have done. Even as children we could not but wonder at his cheerful submission to his many annoyances and dis- comforts, and indeed the continual consultations over his case must have been most trying to so manly a boy. "His holidays were spent with us. He used to ride up to Castletown a careful lad leading his pony, and his faithful nurse, Anne Fleming, in attendance. After our formal schoolroom dinner, presided over by our very strict governess, who kept us all four in great order, we were allowed to amuse ourselves in any way we liked in any part of the large house. " Delightful were these afternoons ! Arthur led the games and was first in everything! His personal influence was even then remarkable, and we were all so devoted to him as to be his most willing subjects. As though he were a king we would follow his will as law, and he often led us, or the children of his tutor, into the most ridiculous pranks, or predicaments, not always looked upon by our elders with strict appro- bation. " From his upstairs room in Mr. Greer's house he would sometimes amuse himself by fishing, as it were, EARLY BOYHOOD with a bait at the end of a long string for the ducks in the yard below, till one day a duck swallowed the bait ! and then great was the excitement as he pulled up the string and landed the duck safely in his room, to be killed, plucked, cooked, and eaten in haste, lest the performance should be discovered by Anne Fleming, or by Mrs. Greer, who, kind and good to Arthur, ruled her household with a strict order notwithstanding which he could induce the children to obey him in most of his wishes. " He even persuaded Mr. Greer's eldest son to submit to having his ears bored as if for earrings ! Arthur himself performing the operation with the greatest glee. And how often in after years he has described this, enjoying the recollection of it and wondering at the victim's meekness under so painful an ordeal ! _" Often, of course, he was in disgrace for so enter- taining himself and his young companions, but he was seldom long depressed at that time of his life. The. sternest could not long be angry with him. His merry bright face and winning ways drew out every one's love and attached all to him, both high and low ; and when in 1841 we left Castletown for Paris to spend two years on the Continent, the parting from him was most grievous to us all. His fearless undaunted spirit and pluck had made him a hero in our young eyes, and the friendship thus begun in childhood ripened in after life into the intimate and sympathetic intercourse that lasted to the end." His education was then continued during a two years' residence at St. Germains with his mother and sister, and on a subsequent short visit to Italy. 12 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP, n Of his stay in Rome he retained a lively recollec- tion, and often afterwards spoke of the apartments they occupied in the Villa Strozzi now, alas ! de- stroyed, like so many others, for the reconstruction of the city. I cannot quite fix the date of my own earliest recol- lections of Arthur of his pleasant visits to our school- room when he came to see us in Dublin, and would playfully supervise my weary struggles over simple sums of our long sojourns at Borris, where one of our amusements was to harness his mother's pet spaniel " Prince " to a little cart, seated in which he would drive me about the entrance hall and (not least) of the hymn, "Arthur's Hymn," as we used to call it, and all the dearer to us for that reason, which might seem to foretell his future love of the sea, and the steady- trust that deepened with advancing life in a Father's guidance : 'Twas when the sea with awful roar A little bark assailed, And pallid fear's distracting power O'er each on board prevailed Save one the Captain's darling child Who steadfast viewed the storm, And, cheerful, with composure smiled On danger's threatening form. " Why sporting thus," a seaman cried, " While dangers overwhelm ? " " Why yield to fear ? " the child replied, " My father's at the helm ! " Christian ! From him be daily taught To calm thy groundless fear ; Think on the wonders He has wrought ; Jehovah's ever near. CHAPTER III Ille terrarum mihi praeter omnes Angulus ridet. HOR. Car. ii. 6. 13. In all the world no spot there is That wears for me a smile like this. SIR THEODORE MARTIN. THE old gray stone building, since 1570 the family seat of the Kavanaghs, commands from its position a widely -extended view over the fine woods of the demesne across the valley of the "goodly Barow" to the blue mountains in the distance, Brandon, Mount Leinster, and Blackstairs. Turreted walls and the rich colouring of years attest its antiquity, and the chapel wing, added at a later period, consecrates the beauty of the historic house. Through the tangled ivy that veils the chapel the Gothic windows show their mellowed tracery, while, guarding like sentinels the narrow pathway leading to it, stand the venerable beech -trees that Sunday by Sunday have watched generations of worshippers wending their way from the village to what, in fact, is the parish church of Clonagoose. But far other gatherings than that of a peaceful congregation has the old house witnessed. Stormy scenes have been enacted round its walls, rebel and loyalist contending for the mastery. Twice has it sus- 14 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. tained a regular siege and twice driven off its assailants gallantly. The first of these was during the great rebellion of 1641, when it was surrounded by the insur- gent Irish, whom it kept at bay till they were finally put to flight by Sir Charles Coote of Castlecuffe in the Queen's County an ancestor of the Cootes of Ballyfin. Again, in the rising of 1 798, it was attacked by the rebels and again defended by a Kavanagh Arthur's father, who all through the insurrection bore a most honourable part. In his Memoirs of the Different Rebellions of Ireland, Sir Richard Musgrave says of him that, having been distinguished by his devotion to the Crown and his energy as a magistrate, he was "peculiarly the object of rebel vengeance." On the night of the 24th May, accordingly, Borris House was invested by a body of about five thousand insurgents, who, we read in Ryan's History of Carlow, were driven off by Captain Kavanagh's yeomanry corps, leaving behind them fifty men in killed and wounded. Returning to the assault on the I2th of June, the rebels began operations on the village of Borris, lying under the demesne wall. They burned the houses of the tenants, and followed up their advantage till they were met by a determined resistance at the house itself, which was garrisoned by twenty of the Donegal militia and seventeen of the yeomanry. Commanded by one Kearns, a priest, who was afterwards hanged at Eden- derry, the assailants attempted to batter down the walls with a howitzer, but made no impression on them, and were compelled to retire with considerable loss. "One of the insurgents," says Sir Richard Mus- grave, "who was wounded and could not retreat, proved to be a tenant of Mr. Kavanagh's who lived nil DEMESNE OF B ORRIS 15 close to the house, and to whom he had been singularly kind. On being asked why he had embarked in this treasonable enterprise, he confessed that he was tempted to do so by a promise of obtaining a portion of the estate " a promise not then made for the last time ! Round Borris, indeed, both house and village, there was a series of encounters with the rebels the only encounters, it is said, in which the loyalists were decidedly successful during that memorable rising. In one of these at Kilcomney, a short distance off, the King's forces were commanded by Sir Charles Asgill, and, with a few discharges of artillery, put the enemy to rout. They retreated precipitately to the County Wexford through the Scollogh Gap, and were pursued by the regular troops for six miles, losing many ol their number on the road, and finally abandoning their cannon, baggage, stores, and provisions. But those wild scenes have long given place to others of a more peaceful nature, and in the early light of a summer morning from the windows of the old house nought can now be surveyed but the outlined hills and the dark woods, and the Barrow just sug- gested by the faint mist that the sun has not yet dis- persed, while the lawn below is alive with rabbits, fearlessly sporting in the silence, unbroken save by the twitter of the wakening birds. The demesne of Borris is skirted on one side by the Barrow, into which, under Bunahown Bridge, dashes the brook a mountain torrent bright and rapid even in the hottest summer, reminding one, in places, of the Garry as it threads the Pass of Killiecrankie, with just the same brown pools lying clear and still between the mossy boulders rounded by the water, just the same 1 6 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. high banks, clothed with trees and underwood. The Borris brook indeed is smaller, but, in its picturesque course, not the less lovely, with the large clumps of rhododendrons, scarlet and purple, showing brilliant patches of colour through the dark green of fir and beech. Might not Coleridge have seen it or heard it, in vision or dream, when he sang of a hidden brook In the leafy month of June, That to the sleeping woods all night Singeth a quiet tune ? Attractive enough as a trout stream, with its little wooded islets and " fairy forelands " breaking the current, it has yet other attractions which some may prize still more clear crystals and even pearls ! But for salmon the angler must turn to the Barrow, the varied scenery of which as it winds majestically past Borris down to New Ross recalls, not seldom, Tennyson's slow, broad stream That, stirred with languid pulses of the oar, Waves all its lazy lilies and creeps on Barge-laden, through fields browsed by deep-uddered kine, till, as it widens between lofty, bold, and wooded banks it might equally have suggested Sir Walter's Where through groves deep and high Sounds the far billow ! Many a time from the boathouse, near the bottom of the old deer-park, has Arthur steered a gay party out under the arch fringed with wreaths of ivy into the broad river, then past Bunahown Bridge and through DRUM MO ND LODGE the frequent locks that equalise its levels, past the ruined abbey of St. Mullins, where generations of his forefathers rest, and so down the gliding water beneath the romantic old bridge of Graigue to Drum- mond, where, half hidden by trees and half covered with roses, nestles the small slated house, built about thirty years ago, when the sporting instincts were highest. Now the little place is deserted save for an occasional picnic. But none who ever shared in them will forget the joyous parties round that informal board, at which the steersman of the morning, presiding as the kindly host, welcomed all to the dainty contents of the hampers. And after the merry luncheon came the pleasant ramble through the woods, dense with honey- suckle and ivy, till just in time to save the tide began the journey home through the still evening not the least enjoyable part of an excursion, always one of the chief delights of those happy summer days at B orris. CHAPTER IV Es bildet ein Talent sich in der Stille, Sich ein Character in dem Strom der Welt. GOETHE. A Talent moulds itself in quiet study, A Character in life's eventful stream. FROM the still life at Celbridge and afterwards at Borris, where, amid the scenes and associations just described, his education was carried on by tutors, we have now to accompany him on a tour, during the years 1846, '47, and '48, through Egypt, in the track of the Israelites, to the Holy Land. Shut out from the discipline of a public school, he had the best possible substitute in foreign travel, with its special opportunities of observation and reflection, enhanced under the guidance of his highly - gifted mother. A detailed record of this journey has been preserved in a series of letters, chiefly from Lady Harriet, and, in much fewer number, from others of the party, which included his eldest brother Tom, his sister Harriet, and their tutor, the Rev. David Wood. About the middle of October 1846 they left Marseilles for Alexandria, and thence proceeded to Cairo, where they hired two boats, and, early in November, began the ascent of the Nile as far as the third cataract. Their experiences were mainly those CHAP, iv "PRAESENTIOR DEUS.f" 19 of every traveller interested in the past and present of the great Nile valley, and, as described in the letters, were thoroughly enjoyed by the whole party, favoured as it was by ample leisure, and, as far as concerned the young people, by a superintendence and companionship advantageous from every point of view. Tutorial work, chiefly in Latin and Greek for the boys, with regular readings in history, sacred and pro- fane, filled up a portion of the day, the rest of which was spent in sport upon the river banks, when not occupied by visits to scenes now of easier access to the archaeologist and art student. Of these expeditions Arthur, by this time in his six- teenth year, hardly missed one, whether its object was a jackal hunt, a shot at an ibis, an ascent of the Pyra- mids, or an exploration of the ruins of Thebes. He was his own master in all his movements, and enjoyed a freedom which in any other so circumstanced or poorer in resource would hardly have been safe. Not, however, that he was invariably prudent. Through all his life he had more than his share of narrow escapes, of which the following, on the I4th January 1847, was among the most providential. The two dahabeayahs on which they were making the voyage upstream were moored alongside each other near the shore, between Luxor and Karnak. He was sitting on the gunwale of one and leaning over half asleep on the gunwale of the other, while the rest of the party and all the servants were away on an expedition or below in the cabins. Either a breeze or the swell from some passing boat caused the dahabeayahs to drift apart. He fell between them, and they closed over him. An Arab on the shore 20 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. saw him fall and gave the alarm, so that he was rescued, though to all appearance drowned, and it was long before he was restored to consciousness. Of this life half sport, half study, and all pleasure he grew so fond, that its renewal on the return voyage only heightened its charm for him, and it was with something like regret that he exchanged it even for the journey across the desert. No incident or experience was thrown away upon him ; and it may be noted here that, though the youngest of the party, he was the aptest to pick up, and the longest to retain, the language of the Bedouin escort, insomuch that when necessary he could act as interpreter. At home in the saddle, on horse, camel, or mule, he rode across the desert, drinking in the melancholy fascination of its aspects, living or inanimate ; and to the close of life he never lost the vivid and solemn impressions of Mount Sinai, Mount Horeb, and the wilderness between Egypt and the Promised Land. The following letter to his brother Charles, then at Borris, will show how little, in point of observation and literary expression, the boy of sixteen had missed by not having been at a public school : "BEYROUT, 26th May 1847. " MY DEAR CHARLEY We have completed our Egyptian and Syrian travels, and have arrived at Beyrout. We do not know whether we are to leave for Constantinople and spend another year in our wanderings, or else to go direct home. The next letters will decide us. " We have had a very jolly time of it. We crossed the desert in force, having joined with three other parties, making in all sixty camels. We went round 1 DO UGAL M l TA VI SH " by Petra and Sinai, and at Hebron we exchanged the desert camel for the Syrian horse. We enjoyed the desert immensely, but fully appreciate the difference between the parched and arid sands of Africa and the grassy plains, wooded mountains, and silver streams of the Land of Promise, Where the citron and olive are fairest of fruit, And the voice of the nightingale never is mute, Where virgins are soft as the roses they twine, And all, save the spirit of man, is divine. " I bought a horse from the Governor at Hebron a very nice little fellow. I have ridden him all the way from Hebron to here. He is generally well- behaved. His name is Dougal M'Tavish. We have another horse in the party of the same sex, with whom he fights. " I am writing this letter at a window looking out on the sea, and while I was drinking a glass of sherbet it was blown off the table into the dirty street, but, as you see, I have got it back all safe. "We have parted with all our Arab servants to- day, and are sending them back to Alexandria by steamer. We are going to take Ishmael, our drago- man, to Ireland. He is a very nice sort of fellow. I am sure you will like him. He has very long mous- taches. " Tom has got a Turkish dress all embroidered with gold for ^13. Hoddy [his sister Harriet] has got a lady's dress, and I have got a Bedouin's costume. Tom has also got the carpet Mehemet Ali Pacha used to say his prayers on. It is white satin, all covered with gold. It cost ;io. He has also bought an Arab gun, nearly sixteen feet in the barrel, all inlaid with silver. He and I have joined together and bought a 22 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. brace of Arab horse-pistols all covered with silver, besides sabres, scimitars, daggers, and knives innu- merable. I also bought a beautiful little horse-piece, inlaid with silver what the Mamlouks use. We have also got shields made of giraffe and crocodile skin, along with spears and Nubian knives. I am sure you would enjoy the East immensely the most delicious fruit and everything enjoyable. Tis the land of the East, 'tis the clime of the sun ! Can he smile on such deeds as his children have done ? "It would charm you to see their beautiful eyes Those eyes' dark charm 'twere vain to tell ! But gaze on those of the gazelle, It will assist thy fancy well. "It seems as if it were a dream, a fairyland! Picture to yourself gardens of apricots and pomegran- ates, vineyards and oliveyards, intersected with spark- ling brooks and silver fountains, where the rose and the myrtle in full bloom send their fragrant scents to the cloudless heavens and perfume the balmy air with their delicious odours. I cannot help reciting Byron's beautiful lines, so striking for their truth and the beauty of their composition." And here the letter closes with a transcript from memory of the familiar Know ye the land, etc. In further illustration of the use he made of his opportunities I may give the following letter to the Rev. Ralph Morton, then tutor to his brother Charles at B orris. "JERUSALEM, $oth October 1847. " MY DEAR MORTON It is a long time since I have written to you indeed I believe not since I was iv SPORT ON THE NILE 23 at Marseilles ; and I am sure you must have attributed my silence not only to neglect, but to entire forgetful- ness of you and your former kindness. And although, certainly, my idleness would deserve such an inter- pretation, I must say this is not the case. The only excuse I will plead is my own idleness and the difficulty of finding an opportunity from constant travelling. The rest I will leave to your indulgence. . . . " We are going to cross the short desert. We expect to meet the D s in Egypt. We heard that they were going to spend the winter in Rome, so we wrote to them to come out to us instead ; for I believe travel in Egypt is the easiest sort of travel. " I am sure you would like these countries extremely (if I have lived long enough with you to be acquainted with your tastes). I even think that Charley my patriotic brother would find means for enjoyment. The best shooting, I believe, in the world is to be found on the Nile birds of all plumage in abundance, from the large white pelican to the beautiful little green and gold humming-bird. There is also wolf and wild boar and hyena hunting, which is generally managed on horses with rifles ; also coursing gazelles with beautiful Persian greyhounds. I have been out cours- ing gazelles sometimes here. We also ran a wolf with the dogs, but the poor fellow has very little chance, and gets pulled down in no time. " I am very fond of the Bedouin Arabs they are so good-natured and hospitable. We often got into their encampments, particularly on our way from Jerusalem to Damascus, and used to stop with them till our own tents came up, when we set to work to pitch and get ready for passing the night. "The tents generally are pitched in half an hour. 24 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. We have three tents : one large one for the ladies, another small one for us, another smaller one again for the dragoman, cook, helper, and luggage. The instant we halt the cook sets to work to light his fire and get the dinner ready, while the dragoman and helpers are pitching the tents, making the beds, collecting the luggage, etc. For two hours our camp shows a very busy and lively scene. By that time dinner is ready, and we all sit down. The rest smoke their long chibouques or narghilehs (narghileh is a machine for smoking tombak, a strong tobacco, through water). After dinner we smoke until eight, when we go to bed, having always to be up at four. Then begins a busy scene. The tents are struck, everything packed up, we get our breakfast while they are loading the mules, and, in about an hour and a half, you would not know where we had passed the night. " We lunch in the middle of the day, for, breakfast- ing at four and not dining until six, one feels the want of something at that time. " We have bought our horses at Beyrout for this journey to Cairo six. I have got a very nice horse indeed. I gave seventeen hundred piastres for him. He has a true Arab mark on his ear, and everybody I have shown him to says that if not entirely he is very nearly pure Arab breed. He stands about fifteen hands, has a beautiful head and fine ear, long nose, almost a milk-white coat shining like glass ; his limbs are fine without a puff; his eye and the expression of his countenance fiery, yet sweet an odd phrase to use about a horse, but I do not know any other which expresses what I want so well. He is the admiration of everybody here. Mamma even thinks he will be worth taking home. JERUSALEM 25 " Now I must try to give you a description of Jerusalem. " The frontispiece in your small book of Palestine affords a very good representation of the Jaffa gate as viewed from the Bethlehem plain. The town is walled round, the walls being kept in a perfect state of preser- vation by the Sultan. Some parts, of them are very curious, the stones being of immense size, some twenty- seven feet long by ten broad an evident sign of their antiquity. One side of the wall stands near the valley of Jehoshaphat, but it does not overhang it, as draw- ings generally represent. The streets are very narrow, dirty, and badly paved. There are four clergymen here. The Bishop is a Prussian, Gobat by name. Before his appointment he was a missionary in Abys- sinia. Mr. Fisher, an Englishman ; Mr. Nicholayson, a Dane, who married a Mrs. Dalton, an Irish lady. The other, a Mr. Ewald, is a German. They are all very nice and good-natured, and have been kinder to us than any people we have met on our travels. There is also here an English consul, a Mr. Hine ; and English doctors, a Mr. Sandford and Mr. M'Gowan the latter at present in Jaffa. They all treat us more as if we were their near relations than mere travellers passing by. We have hardly spent an evening at our house since we came, being invited nearly every evening either to dine or to take tea, and, in the day, making picnic parties to places of great interest. " There are very extraordinary things shown here by the monks utterly ridiculous and difficult even for the most credulous to believe ; such as the stone that would have cried out if it could, etc. "We are going out to-day gazelle-hunting, and I 26 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. hope we shall have some success. Tom and I are thinking of buying a brace of these greyhounds, if we can get them for a reasonable price. "We start the day after to-morrow for Cairo by the short desert, across which we are going to ride our horses. We shall then have traversed both deserts, having crossed the long one by Petra and Sinai coming here a journey of thirty-six days, while this one is only twelve. " I have plenty more to say, only I have neither time nor paper. How is ' Prince ' ? and my hound ? " A letter from his eldest brother, who was one of the party, supplies details of the sport not given by Arthur himself. It is dated at a farther stage of their journey. "RHODA, 6tk March 1848. "... Lord Morton, whom we met up the Nile this year, has lent Arthur a gun, with which he has shot a great many wild geese, ducks, and snipe. He shoots much better than Mr. Wood, who began about the same time that he did, and can hit a bird flying quite well. His shooting is quite as wonderful as his riding. He is also the only one of the party who can speak Arabic, which he does perfectly. " The other day, when riding through the bazaars, he encountered a number of Bedouin and Arab sheikhs whom he got acquainted with in the desert, and with whom he is a great favourite. As soon as they saw him, they all ran up and kissed him on both cheeks." Yet another letter of Arthur's, addressed to the Rev. Ralph Morton, may here be inserted. It is dated Marseilles, loth April 1848, by which time they had closed their wanderings in the East, had visited vi THE REVOLUTION OF '48 27 Smyrna and the shores of the Black Sea as far as Trebizond, had explored Constantinople and its waters, and passed another winter in Lower Egypt. "... In a former letter from Rhoda I mentioned that we were to go to Malta for our quarantine and then come home by Italy. We changed our plans and intended coming here and then starting for Algiers or the coast of Spain, as the North of Italy was too much disturbed for travelling. When we came here affairs were so unsettled that our intended trip to Algiers had to be given up. . . . "We hear nothing now but the Marseillaise hymn and see nothing but troops patrolling the streets. The National Guard has been recruited, and the Civic Guard called out. A great panic has struck all com- mercial men. The bankers refuse to cash any bills whatever. The shops are all shut at sunset, because, there being no demand for their articles, they do not care to burn their lights for nothing. All public works have been stopped because the Government have no money to pay the workmen. There is general dis- satisfaction on account of the elections being put off. So much for the good of a revolution ! I think certainly not less than two thousand men have passed under my window to-day, armed with muskets and sabres, and commanded by officers of the line. . . . "We are taking home an Arab servant. His name is Hadji Mohammed. Also two beautiful Syrian gazelle-hounds which we bought at Jerusalem. [They were called Lufra and Gwherda the Arabic, 1 believe, for Rosebud ; the former black, the latter white, deeply stained with henna.] I sold my horse at Cairo. Poor beast ! I cried the day I left him he 28 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. knew me so well ! He used to lick my face when I came out of the tent in the morning to see him, and at the luncheon-time in the heat of the day, when I used to sit under him for shade, he would put his head between his front legs to take a bit of bread, without moving, for fear of hurting me." This fondness for animals of all sorts, and very specially for horses and dogs, was a strongly marked trait in his character. Indeed, his power over them was wonderful. He would speak to them in tones and terms of coaxing endearment the animals listen- ing as if they understood his wishes, and obeying, as if forced by his influence to give up their wills to his. In 1848, after his return from Egypt, he was thrown a good deal into the society of his two nieces, daughters of Colonel Bruen of Oak Park, his com- panions in many a frolic, riding or driving. Anne's ponies or, his own partly trained ones he would drive four-in-hand, she sitting beside him to help by pelting the leaders with little stones. Or he would himself drive over, tandem, to Oak Park, where he was always a welcome guest to none more than to his brother-in-law, Colonel Bruen, who, though much his senior, regarded him with affectionate admiration. But in his riding excursions he was generally quite alone. Once, in the old deer-park at Borris, his horse bolted with him, tearing round the park three times. He was just able to guide him when his strength began to fail ; so, hoping to stop his mad career by facing an impossible fence, he turned the animal's head to the demesne wall. At that moment the girths gave way, the saddle he was strapped into turned and iv A NOCTURNAL ADVENTURE 29 he was swung round. He remembered nothing more, and was found lying insensible beside the horse. Another very striking incident of that year should be mentioned. It was at the time of Smith O'Brien's rebellion, and he was staying on a visit to his great- aunt, then Dowager Marchioness of Ormonde, at Garryricken ("Garden of the King"), near Slieve-na- Man, where the unsuccessful rising took place. To reconnoitre the movements of the "patriots," he went out by night to see their encampment on a favourite hunter given him by Colonel Bruen. He succeeded in getting near their outposts, but was discovered, and pursued by some of their "cavalry." Only the speed and cross-country powers of his good horse " Bunny " saved him from being captured their horses being unable to take the fences, to which he fearlessly put his own. CHAPTER V #/3W7T(ov iSev acrTea Kai voov cyvw. HOM. Od. i. 3. Wandering from clime to clime, observant strayed, Their manners noted and their states surveyed. POPE. As slow our ship her foamy track Against the wind was cleaving, Her trembling pennant still look'd back To that dear isle 'twas leaving. So loth we part from all we love, From all the links that bind us, So turn our hearts where'er we rove To those we've left behind us. Irish Melodies. SHORTLY after they returned to Ireland in 1848 his brother Tom celebrated the attainment of his majority amid the congratulations customary on such occasions, and in the following year Arthur and he, again ac- companied by Mr. Wood, started on a prolonged tour once more to the East. Their journey was to lie through Scandinavia, Russia, down the Volga and over the Caspian, to Northern Persia, Kourdistan, and, by the valley of the Tigris and the Persian Gulf, to the Bombay Presidency and the Province of Berar. Of this expedition Arthur kept a journal, in great part preserved, which, both from its still fresh interest and the view it affords of him as an observer of nature and mankind, may be given in pretty full extracts. CHAP, v THE START FOR ASTRAKHAN 31 To him the experience proved an education and discipline during the years which other young fellows spend at college, and just as on the tour through Egypt and Syria it called into play his powers and resources, mental and physical, developing both, and forming the habits and tastes which influenced so much of his after life. Accordingly, on 4th June 1849, ^ e small party left Kingstown on their long adventurous journey ; and through Denmark, Norway, Sweden, and Fin- land, without much striking incident, reached St. Petersburg on the 28th July, and Moscow on the 8th August. Of these towns and their neighbourhood they made a thorough exploration, and on the 24th reached Nijni-Novgorod, while the annual fair was in progress. There they spent some days laying in stores and enjoying the varied and picturesque aspects of the celebrated gathering. On the 4th September began the work of packing, as on the following day they expected to start on the steamer for Astrakhan. He says : " We were by way of travelling light, and, certainly, the length of journey and time considered, we were not overburdened with either luxuries or necessaries. When everything was packed the baggage list showed six portmanteaux, two cases of sherry, one of brandy, one of tea, four gun-cases, three bundles of beds and cloaks, two carpet-bags, two hat-boxes, two leather bags of shot, and innumerable small parcels. The voyage down the Volga, it was supposed, would make at least one case of sherry look foolish, so, that ex- cepted, the above list was our outfit for Persia. Three bundles of beds sounds large, but those consisted of 32 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. air-beds and two couples of cloaks tied up into a very small compass, and were as uncomfortable concerns as deluded travellers ever tried to sleep on. When in- flated to the full extent the floor was just as soft, and when I tried to make mine a little softer by letting out some of the air, I was shot out on the floor by the rush of the air going to the one side. I therefore gave up the contest, and remained satisfied with the floor. The amount of portmanteaux might well, I think, have been reduced. Gun-cases and shot, if we had been gifted with prophetic vision, would certainly have been left behind. But, allured by vivid expecta- tions of every kind of sport, we would as soon have left the guns as Wood his collection of Murray's Handbooks, which, with a volume called Family Medicine, filled the book-box. Three pocket-knives and forks constituted our canteen outfit, and of every- thing else we had to take our chance." After a false start on the 5th, they got off on the 6th in a steamer the Hercules which he describes as "a fine vessel, flat-bottomed, five hundred horse- power, and tremendous length. Every evening," he continues, "at sunset we lay to, and started at sunrise, a necessary precaution from the innumerable sand- banks with which the river abounded. Sometimes it looked more like an arm of the sea with the tide out, just leaving the sand visible. A little farther on it would narrow, passing the foot of a low copse-covered range of hills, running then through a small district of gardens and villages, where we usually (that is, when we reached such an oasis) stopped to take in wood, provisions, fruit, etc. It would widen again, and apparently lose itself in an interminable stretch of sand and water." v CUISINE ON THE VOLGA 33 On the Qth they reached Kasan (ten versts from the bank of the river), when two boats they had in tow ran on a sandbank. After six hours they got off one, and were, " \\th September, " Still working away without any seeming chance of getting off the other. The weather was very cold and showery. Our condition was much improved by having got rid of all the passengers at Kasan, except one fat Russian. Our dinners were very bad, con- sisting alternately of patriarchal cocks and horseflesh, followed by pudding made of goodness knows what. The sherry and beer we got at Nijni turned out very satisfactory, and many a health to our absent friends was drunk in both of them. About 5 P.M., to our great joy and contrary to our most sanguine hopes, we succeeded in hauling the hulk off the sandbank, in which affair we had a grand specimen of the idleness, stupidity, and obstinacy of the Russian sailors. " i2th September. " Left the fatal sandbank at 6 A.M., having been delayed at it nearly forty-eight hours, and steamed on prosperously through the day, which was cold and showery. Stopped at 9 P.M. " 13/7* September. " Started early, and arrived at Simbirsk at 4 P.M. Very hot weather, with showers. Stopped at 7 P.M. " i4/// September. " Started early. Weather sultry. Saw plenty of game duck, wild geese, teal, widgeon, and cormor- ants on numerous sandbanks. I also saw two brace 34 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. of wild swans. On one side of the river the hills abound in partridge, and on the other, the low swampy bank covered with sally bushes, in wild boar. How- ever, as the steamer would not stop for us, we had to forego the pleasures of the chase. "iStA September. " A beautiful day. Arrived at Samara about 9 A.M. Stopped some minutes to discharge passengers. Saw plenty of game, among them a brace of pelicans and some birds which, I think, were of the same species as those on the Bosphorus, called 'les ames damnees.' Fired two or three shots with a rifle, but with no suc- cess. The heat, though great, was of that exhilarating kind, which showed us we were reaching the southern latitude. The banks seemed thinly populated. On an average we did not see more than two or three villages a day, and scarcely ever a cultivated field. Water-melons, apples, and pears abounded in the villages we happened to stop at. " T.6th September. "Had service in the morning. Started at 2 P.M., having taken in a large quantity of wood. Had the captain to dinner. A lovely day. " i ith September. " Sailed early. Hot weather. The hills on the side of the river changed from being wooded to barren rocks, composed chiefly of chalk and sandstone. " i8/A September. 11 Saratov. Left the boats there to discharge cargo, and went to a village farther down to take in wood, making thereby a tremendous row all night. Got rid ASTRAKHAN 35 of the fat Russian. Wood got his cabin to himself, and Tom and I and my servant slept in the other not a very fair division. " 2oth September. " Very cold day. Stuck on another sandbank. Succeeded in getting steamer off, after a delay of nine hours. Passed Kamischkin at about 7 P.M. " 2 \st September. " About noon arrived at Tzaritzin, a large town, where we stopped to take in sufficient wood to last us to Astrakhan. Got some grapes, the first I saw in Russia. " 2 2d September. " Started at 6 A.M. Hot weather. " 2$d September. " Had service in the morning. Passed immense quantities of pelicans and several encampments of Calmuc Tartars, their huts consisting of branches of trees stuck in the ground. They live entirely on fish and their flocks. " 2$th September. 11 Stuck on a sandbank. Passed a man riding a camel. I never knew before that camels were in use so far north. " 2$th September. " Arrived at Astrakhan at 9 A.M. The part of the river under the town where we lay was crowded with shipping from the Caspian, some of them with two masts oddly rigged, carrying a sort of lateen and a mainsail. Their poops were raised to an extraordinary height, and very gaily painted something like the pictures one sees of the ships used by the old Romans. 36 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. There being no rooms to be had in the town, we were obliged to stick to our quarters on board and go to a cafe for our food it being contrary to law to have fire on board any ship lying there. Even candles and smoking were forbidden under pain of a thirty rouble fine. Thinking, however, that the two latter clauses of the law were too ridiculous, I broke them both. " Took a drive through the town, but found no- thing worth seeing. It lies very low and is straggling. The streets are wide and not paved but covered with deep sand, which of a windy day makes it very dis- agreeable. The inhabitants seem to be chiefly Calmuc Tartars and Persians. We found capital grapes and melons of every sort in great abundance. "26th September. "A severe frost in the night. Finding the route to Tiflis by the Caucasus out of the question, we took our passage in a Russian Government steamer bound for Baku. On board we were introduced by the captain to several German engineers and inspectors of the port, who were very civil to us and helped us a good deal. Among them a Mr. Hoist spoke English very well. To brighten our present gloomy prospects, we were told that the yellow fever was raging at Baku, and generally carried off its victims in six hours. Re- turned on board the steamer at 1 1 P.M., where our quarters consisted of two beds in the mess-room, which my servant and I occupied, and a cabin for Tom and Wood. " 27/7* September. " Sailed at 3 A.M. The deck was covered with Persians and Circassians. Our companions were Petersen the engineer, the first, second, and third v GALE ON THE CASPIAN 37 lieutenants, and an artillery officer, who spoke French, returning to his quarters at Kisliat The cabin was dirty and dark and always filled with a cloud of tobacco smoke. Our meals were as follows : Petersen supplied us with breakfast and tea ; at dinner and supper we all messed together. These meals consisted of cabbages boiled in oil for soup, beef and potatoes fried in oil, and a water-melon. At 4 P.M. stopped for the night at a fort on the mouth of the Volga. " 2%th September. "Started early. A heavy swell. The wind due north. Arrived at Tarki. Lay there three hours, but it being too rough for a boat to put out, the artillery officer who was to have landed there was obliged to come on, in hopes of being able to go on shore at Derbend. A gale blowing in our favour, a very heavy sea running, and the deck being badly caulked, every wave that washed over made a regular shower in the cabin. The wind being fair, we set all our sails hoping to reach a dangerous part of the sea before sunset. However, the wind falling, we were disappointed. By 9 P.M. the captain, although it was a moonlight night, deemed it prudent to turn back for six hours, so as not to reach the dangerous place before sunrise. " At supper we were foolish enough to produce a bottle of brandy, on the strength of which the first lieutenant got drunk. The night being rather rough, the captain and second lieutenant, who was the officer of the watch, were deadly sick, and the third lieutenant in bed. The consequence was that when the sun rose on the morning of the ist October they could not tell where they were. They had no chronometer on board, and always came to us to know whether it was 38 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. time to take their observations. As our watches all went differently, they were sometimes sadly puzzled. " Arrived at Baku at 9 A.M. Called on the Gover- nor, who generously gave us and the artillery officer rooms in his house. Both he and his wife spoke French. The town, which seems very old, is built on the side of a hill. The roofs are all flat, and the most outstanding object is the minaret of a mosque. The bazaars are miserable and the population almost en- tirely Persian. Dined with the Governor, who enter- tained us very well after the Russian fashion, and produced some capital English porter after dinner. " Hired horses and went with Petersen to see the Fire Worshippers, a distance of fifteen versts, the road lying through fields totally uncultivated. The Fire Worshippers are well worth seeing. Their fire con- sists of naphtha -gas issuing from the earth. Their court or mosque is strongly walled round, with four fires inside it and about forty outside. " 3^ October. " Dined at the Governor's, and instead of going to Tiflis decided to go by steamer to Enzeli and Reshd, and thence to Teheran. Our friend the Russian officer left us for his quarters. We parted with regret, for he was exceedingly good-natured, gentlemanlike, and in every way anxious to help us. Tom and Wood went to tea with the General, and I went on board with the luggage. " ^th October. " Sailed at 5 A.M. Tom and Wood lost their cabin, the wife and child of a Russian officer occupying it. "5//fc October. "Anchored at Lenkoran at 8.30 A.M. It is beauti- v START FOR ASTRABAD 39 fully situated, the mountains very high and thickly wooded. Although the last town on the Russian frontier, it has a much more European aspect than Baku. Lay to all day. Started at 8 P.M. Stormy night. Found ourselves in the morning blown far away from Enzeli and obliged to go on to Astrabad. " %th October. "Arrived at a small island with a Russian settle- ment. Spent the evening with a Russian officer, who spoke French very well, and treated us most hospi- tably. "gth October. 11 Engaged a Persian who spoke Russ to go with us first to Astrabad and then to Teheran. Left the island at 9 A.M., the Captain giving us a champagne breakfast. Arrived at a Russian factory at the village of Gazaw, and then bade adieu to the Couba steamer. Petersen, etc., lodged in a small room in the doctor's house, and were fed by the people in the factory. In the night the jackals kicked up a great row. " iot/i October. " Started for Astrabad about a quarter to 9 A.M., taking nothing with us but our guns and beds. The road lay through jungle and forest, said to abound in tigers, lions, wild boar, and every sort of game, of which we saw nothing except a few pheasants, hares, and jackals ; and from the covert found it utterly impossible to get a shot. Trees of every sort, from the gigantic oak to the beautiful acacia, grew in the greatest luxuriance. The wild or rope-vine entwining itself among the trees, in places forming an immense net, made the covert perfectly impenetrable. We 40 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. passed wild pomegranates and figs in the greatest pro- fusion, and halted about noon. Not having brought any provisions, we shared a pilau with Hadji Abbas. "At 4 P.M. halted half an hour for their prayers, and at 5.30 P.M. stopped for the night at a small village about two hours distant from Astrabad the Hadji declaring that from the Turcomans the road was too dangerous to travel in the night, and that a Persian had been killed by them on the same road the night before. " Put up in the Khan, a sort of shed with a large dusty room smelling very strong of bats. About a quarter of an hour after our arrival, he brought us in the leg of a chicken and a small plate of rice rather scanty fare for four hungry fellows. A very cold night. " \\th October. 11 Off a little after daybreak. When about half an hour from Astrabad the Hadji pulled up and showed us in the distance a line of horsemen, who, he said, were Turcomans. So after having cursed them as sons of dogs, and children of the Evil One, he set to work most vigorously to tell his beads, thanks to which precaution, I suppose, we rode unmolested about 9 A.M. into the village a walled miserable sort of place. The inhabitants, a bigoted tribe, received us most inhospitably. " On entering the gate, one of the dogs which had followed us from the factory, being nearly as hungry as ourselves, killed a chicken, which occasioned not a little stir, and led to our being caged up for the best part of the day in the middle of the only square, and pelted diligently by the inhabitants with rotten eggs and bad oranges soft things, no doubt, but not the v ON THE ROAD TO TEHERAN 41 less trying to the temper. We were put up for the night in the cock-loft of the worst caravanserai (it not being allowed for Christians to enter the better ones), and there got a sort of breakfast which we sadly wanted. Left Astrabad about 3 P.M. Halted 6 P.M., and put up at a dirty mud hut. " 1 2th October. " Started at 6 A.M. No breakfast. Stopped for an hour in the middle of the day, and arrived at the factory at 2 P.M. Bathed about 9 P.M., after which, being nearly dead with hunger, we attacked and con- sumed sixteen eggs. " 13^ October. "Off by 8.30 A.M. for Teheran, with ten horses, five for riding and five for luggage, and stopped at noon for an hour. Halted about sundown and spent the night in an open shed. " i^th October. " Daybreak found us on the road. Arrived at Ashraf by 9 A.M. Stopped at a beautiful orange grove. Three dogs accompanied us from the factory : a water-dog I called " Diver," a large rough one named " Tiger," and our friend whom we styled " The Chicken," who much to my delight (for I was nearly starving) succeeded in catching another fowl for us, together with which, and some meat and eggs which we fortunately secured in the bazaar, made up the first good feed we had had since we landed in Persia. Fruit was rather scarce, we found, but succeeded in getting two melons and some wild grapes. Left Ash- raf by 11.30 A.M., having found the inhabitants more hospitably inclined than those of Astrabad. Halted 42 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. for the night, and having no house slept under a tree very damp. " i$tk October. " Started by daybreak. Arrived at Sari, where we changed our horses, which were miserable, and the Hadji left us. We had every reason to be satisfied with him. He was strictly honest, active, and obliging. He delivered us into the hands of a Persian who also spoke Russ, and came with him from Nijni, a watch- maker by trade. Put up at the caravanserai, but were cursed by swarms of mosquitoes. " 1 6th October. " Although up and packed by 6 A.M. we could not start our new muleteers and man Gabbett by name until after 10 o'clock. We found the inhabitants very uncivil. The town, though large, was filthy. Halted at 4 P.M. Slept out. Rain in the night all our things wet. "i7//fc October. "Off by 7.30 A.M., and began the passage of the mountains. A wet evening. The scenery was beauti- ful, but the road villanous, in some places absolutely impassable to any but the native beasts, who were well used to tumbling through such passes. The path, sometimes about a foot broad, and very slippery from the rain and mud, ran along the side of the mountain the rock rising abruptly on one side, a precipice of five or six hundred feet on the other : a very grand picture to look at, but very far from pleasant to travel. Twice my horse slipped one of his hind feet over the side, and only that he recovered himself in a miracu- lous manner, he and I were dashed into a thousand pieces. v ON THE ROAD TO TEHERAN 43 " Halted in a farm shed, which was deluged in the night by the incessant rain. Bought a sheep for four dollars, which was seized on by the muleteers, who were too bigoted to eat anything we touched, and we saw very little of it in consequence. " iSfA October. "Delayed till 10 A.M. by floods of rain. Leaving the wooded mountains, our path lay sometimes over rocks covered with thorny underwood, sometimes by the bed of a river rendered almost unfordable by the rains. Halted at 4 P.M. at a shed large enough only to contain Wood and Tom, while I slept by the watch- fire. Having seized the sheep's head, we made a capital porridge of it, and had the first good breakfast since our arrival in Persia ; for I, not drinking tea, got only one meal in the twenty-four hours, consisting of a greasy pilau when we halted. "19^ October. " Off at 8 A.M. Very windy. Halted at 4 P.M. at a large caravanserai filled with travellers, and got a place with difficulty. We were nearly smothered with smoke, and the donkeys, horses, dogs, and men kicked up a fearful row during the night. " zoth October. "Very cold and foggy morning. The country through which we went was a complete desert, abound- ing in conies, one of which we killed. Halted in another caravanserai. "2ist October. " I shot a grouse. Halted in a small village. 44 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP, v " zzd October. " Off by sunrise, and in about five hours rode into Teheran and put up in a large caravanserai, where we were most unmercifully mobbed the natives trying to break in the doors, climbing up on the roof and throw- ing dirt and stones at us through the holes." CHAPTER VI Aspera multa Pertulit, adversis rerum immersabilis undis. HOR. Ep. I. ii. 21. He braves untold calamities, borne down By Fortune's waves, but never left to drown. CONINGTON. " 23*3? October. " FOUND the British Minister had left before for Tabriz. Tom and Wood called on Messrs. Reid and Thompson, the attaches. They kindly gave us rooms in the Embassy, and told us we must be their guests at dinner during our stay. Met at dinner a Mr. Burgess and a Mr. Hector, a Bagdad merchant, who offered to take our heavy luggage with him to Bagdad. My servant William was attacked with fever. " z$th October. "William worse. Attacked myself, and very ill till 4th November. Hired two servants Ali as cook, Charum as general servant. " 8//& November. "William and I improving. To try the merits of our new cook, gave a dinner to Messrs. Reid, Thompson, etc., which turned out more respectable than I anticipated. 46. ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. " i o//z November. " The doctor considering William and me strong enough and change of air desirable, we left Teheran about 3 P.M. Rode into Kend about 7 P.M. and put up at the Shah's house. Very cold. William very weak and complaining. " izth November. "Had a long day. Put up in a small room at a dirty village. " i $th November. " Off two hours before daybreak. Wet, cold, and windy. Arrived at Kazvin drenched, after ten hours' ride. Put up in a very fine caravanserai. " i4//$ November. " Found the ground covered with snow, and, as William threatened to die if we went on, we were obliged to make up our minds to stop. " \$th November. " Started with thermometer below 15 F. Piercing cold wind. Halted in the mountains at a very small village, where we had a room and fireplace of the tiniest. " i6th November. "William again pleaded his inability to go on, declaring we should have to bury him on the road, so we decided to stop again. We, however, threatened to send him back with Charum a sulky fellow, who spoke no English ; upon which, having eaten a great bowl of rice-milk, he jumped up and promised to delay us no longer. vi DOWN WITH FEVER 47 " 1 1th November. "Off early, thermometer below 11 F. Halted at a good village, where again I had a threatening of fever. " i8t/i November. "Arrived at Sultania, where we found a Colonel Sheil and his bride, Dr. Dickson, and Thompson's brother. The dinner and champagne were both too good, for in the morning I found myself in a regular attack of fever. However, after an eight days' journey, of which I can remember only the misery (being hardly able on some days to sit on my horse), we rode into Tabriz on the 26th, where Mr. Stephens most hospi- tably received us as his guests. On our arrival we put William under the care of a doctor, a Maltese, who spoke English perfectly. He found that from the in- tense cold William had got frost-bitten in his toe, and was in danger of losing it, but that otherwise he was pretty well. We decided, however, on sending him home by Trebizond and Constantinople. " 2']th-2gth November. " Spent in trying to recover from an attack of diarrhoea, in hopes of being able to accompany Tom and Wood on an expedition to Tiflis. " 30^ November. "Went out hunting with Malichus Mirza, a Persian prince, son to Fat-Ali Shah, but saw nothing. We found him a very nice fellow, quite civilised in all his ways and ideas, and a great sportsman. We dined with him the dinner capital, served in European style. Champagne, etc., flowed like water. 48 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. " \st December. " Tom and Wood started for Tiflis, while I, finding myself much worse, was obliged to stay behind. Mr. Stephens's kindness to me I shall never forget, and also the doctor's. All the days passed alike, some- times getting better and sometimes worse. " I5//& December. " Breakfasted with the Prince, and in the evening got a violent attack of dysentery and liver complaint. " 2$th December. " Between sickness, loneliness, etc., I spent the most miserable of Christmas Days. "26^ December. " Better. Wood and Tom returned. Got a re- lapse in the evening. " \st January 1850. " Got up for the first time, but fell ill in the evening. " 2 d January. " Better. Moved to Malichus Mirza's house for change of air, and remained there till the i5th." [His life under the Prince's roof he long afterwards described to Mrs. Bruen, who has kindly communi- cated to me the following details. He was semi- unconscious when the move took place, and, on coming to, he found himself lodged in the harem, where he was nursed by an old black slave who became devoted to him, insomuch that when to a certain degree con- valescent she would convey him for recreation into the ladies' apartments. There he met with every vi " THE GLOOM OF THE HAREM" 49 kindness, and was entertained by the stories of the former lives of the inmates, many of them most touch- ing in their descriptions of how they were carried off from their homes. One of them a beautiful fair- haired Armenian- awoke his deepest compassion by her pathetic longing for her own relatives and home.] "The evening of the i5th I started alone for Sheshuan, the Prince's country-seat. Tom and Wood having arranged to come after post, the consul and the doctor accompanied me a part of the road. " I certainly ought to remember the hospitality and kindness I received in every way and from everybody more especially from the doctors who attended me in the kindest manner during my long illness. "In all the books of travel on Persia, Tabriz is described as the most beautiful and healthy of cities. To me it appeared far different. I never could find out anything interesting either in or near it. The town itself is large and straggling, situated in a barren plain at the foot of a large red hill. I believe all the hills round it are of the same colour, but as I never saw them unless clad with snow I cannot tell. " On our arrival at Tabriz we bought three horses which belonged to Colonel Farrant. Tom chose a thoroughbred Arab, Wood a fat hack, and I a pony an obstinate little brute but a capital walker. They all, however, broke down before we got far. We also bought an octave of port wine, and having discharged Charum a worthless lout we engaged another man, Pierre, who spoke a little French, to come with us to Urumiah. "After two hours and a half arrived at Sardarud. Quarters bad. Windows without glass not pleasant on a snowy night. E So ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. " 1 6th January. " Off at a quarter to 7 A.M. Dreadful day of snow and wind. Arrived at Gogan quarters very good. Started at a quarter to eight, and rode in seven hours into Sheshuan, where I found the Prince, who received me kindly. Had a tte-a-tete dinner with him on rather doubtful dishes for one recovering from dysentery. " 1 8/A January. " Spent a stupid day, having seen nothing of the Prince until dinner. He said he had passed his d^y in the bath, previous to his starting for Teheran, to escape the myrmidons of the Governor, Hanza Mirza, who had followed him from Tabriz, and then infested his house, in the name of the Government, to recover sixteen thousand tomaums, which it was said he had misspent during his period of maladministration. This, however, he always denied, and said the Government owed him thirty thousand tomaums. Hearing all this was but poor satisfaction for me who had waited for him the whole day, as he had appointed me to be ready at an early hour to go out hunting with him. "igth January. "About i P.M. Tom and Wood arrived. In the afternoon the Prince brought us into his garden, a large enclosure of about forty-five acres, to hunt hares. The chase was conducted in the following manner. He collected all his servants, fifty or sixty, and a large number of greyhounds, which he posted in different parts of the garden. The servants then began to beat. After some time a hare was found which might have afforded a good chase but for the number of dogs and men. Another hare afterwards appeared, which the "ONCE MORE UPON THE WATERS!* Prince, in the most unsportsmanlike manner, shot. The hares were something rather larger than ours, and formed a capital dish at the champagne dinner he after- wards gave us in one of the apartments of the harem. At dinner he insisted on our tasting a specimen of all his Persian preserves, which were numerous, and some of them certainly most delicious. " 2Qth January. " Had prayers in the morning and sent our horses on by Achmed to Urumiah the Prince having offered us a boat to cross the lake of that name, which was by way of being a voyage of only a few hours, and there- fore a short cut. He also gave us leave to have a few days' shooting on the island which lay about half-way across the lake, and to which he said he had sent on tents and everything to make us comfortable. " 2 ist January. " Saw the Prince in the morning for a few minutes before our departure. He told us he had settled everything for us which we found was either a great fib or that his servants cared very little about his orders. We had the greatest difficulty to get mules to convey our luggage a distance of about eight miles to the boat, and did not reach it till about 3 P.M., where, instead of the nice little craft he had promised, we found a heavy passage-boat, crowded with people, and heavily laden with corn. The wind being con- trary, they could not sail until it changed, which they expected it to do at sunset, so we settled ourselves on a heap of corn on the deck and piled our boxes round us to try and shelter ourselves from the bitterly cold wind. Fortunately we had brought a large quantity of bread with us, as provision for the time we expected 52 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. to be shooting on the island. On this and a bit of sausage we made a miserable dinner and turned in, lamenting our fate at being obliged to spend the night in such cold quarters. " 22d January. " The wind having changed in the night, we awoke to find ourselves anchored within a stone's throw of the island. The wind blowing a regular hurricane ahead, we told the men to land us, and to our great disgust were informed that it was utterly impossible to move until the wind changed or fell. Neither of which it did until 2 P.M. of the 23d, when it became quite calm, and, by dint of three hours' punting and pulling, we reached the island, thoroughly sick of the whole expedition. "The boat in its shape resembled a square tub with two masts and sails, rather than anything else. We reckoned that, sailing her best, she progressed about two miles an hour the possibility of tacking or sailing with a side-wind seeming never to have entered the sailors' heads. Having discussed our bread and ham, we lay down, determining to have a good day's shooting the following day on the island, which the Prince described as swarming with game of all sorts, deer, wild sheep, partridge, etc. A bitterly cold night. " 2 ^th January. " On awaking we found nature wearing her most disheartening aspect. We were covered with snow about an inch thick, and it was still snowing hard, with every prospect of its continuing. However, having eaten our bad breakfast, we started in different direc- tions in search of game, and of the Prince's tents, where, in case of our chase being unsuccessful, we SNOW AND SALT! 53 hoped to obtain some fresh water and provisions. I saw several coveys of red-legged partridge and a few wild sheep, but failed in getting either, and at length returned on board, nearly frozen to death and more disgusted with the island than I had previously been with the boat. Tom and Wood returned soon after, equally unsuccessful and cold, but our hearts were cheered in about two hours by Pierre making his appearance with fresh water, a large bowl of thick cream, and a live sheep. Having got the provisions on board, we ordered them to sail for Urumiah, but were told it was impossible, the wind being unfavour- able. " 2 $th January. " Found ourselves in the same position a bitterly cold wind blowing right ahead, accompanied with showers of sleet and snow. The sheep, however, afforded us a good breakfast and dinner, and with some arrack and port wine, which we had in our stores, we managed to keep the vital spark alive. Towards evening, the wind having fallen, they rowed out and anchored a few hundred yards from the shore, in case, they said, of a good wind in the night. " 26th January. " The good wind having sprung up in the night lasted only long enough to blow us half-way across, where we found ourselves anchored, tossing about in the most disagreeable manner, with a cold head-wind and the lake washing over us, so as to spoil the remnant of our bread and render our position most uncomfortable. The water being nearly as salt as the Dead Sea, left us when it dried in a complete incrusta- tion. No fish can live in it, but its banks swarm with 54 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. wild fowl of all descriptions. To better our condition, when we asked for breakfast Ali informed us that they had eaten the rest of the sheep, and that there was no meat left. During the day, the wind having changed, we sailed for about an hour, but soon again it became unfavourable. " 2 ith January. "Our provisions and water failing, we set vigorously to work to stir up the crew, and after five or six hours' hard punting and pulling we reached the shore, where we found Achmed and our horses waiting for us. Remounting, we set off to a neighbouring village to procure quarters for the night and mules to bring up our luggage. Heartily congratulating our- selves on our escape from the boat, we all unanimously agreed that it was the most disagreeable voyage we had ever made tossed about for six days on the deck of a small boat, and the weather intensely cold. The warmest night that we spent on board, the thermometer was below 15 F. Our stock of fresh water was frozen so hard that, in trying to break the ice to get a drink, the jar that contained it was broken and the ice remained as hard as ever. I certainly think that humanly speaking we owed our lives to our Russian fur cloaks and four bottles of the Prince's best arrack, which we were fortunate enough to bring with us. " 2&tA January. " After breakfast we started for Urumiah, and found the road very difficult from the quantity of snow. The plain was certainly the best cultivated and, except the province of Mazanderan, the most fertile part of Persia I had seen. The town, enclosed like Tabriz and vi NESTORIANS AND THEIR WORK 55 Teheran with a deep fosse and mud walls, is sur- rounded by gardens. "We arrived there about 3 P.M. and were most kindly received by the American missionaries, particularly by Dr. Wright, who assigned us two rooms, and made us his guests. At dinner we met his wife, a kind amiable person. The dinner was very good, but being a temperance community they drink nothing but water, which I thought rather a bad plan in such cold weather. " 2C)th January. " At about 8.30 A.M. we were summoned to prayers, which much to our edification were conducted in Syriac. First a hymn was sung, then a chapter in the New Testament read, verse about, and then one of the native priests gave an extempore prayer. There were about fifteen or twenty Nestorians present. At break- fast we were introduced to Dr. Perkins, the head of the community, and another missionary who had ridden down from a neighbouring village. Afterwards they introduced us to two Nestorian bishops, one of whom had been to America with Dr. Perkins and spoke a little English. They then conducted us through their book-stores, printing office, etc., which is very cleverly managed. They have printed a great many copies of the New Testament and other books in Syriac, and are at present preparing to print the Old Testament. They also publish a weekly journal in the same language for the benefit of the natives. At dinner we met the rest of the community. " $oth January. " After breakfast Tom and Wood started to see a village where Dr. Perkins and Mr. Studdert resided 56 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. with their families. In the evening two trays of sweet- meats arrived as a present from the Prince-Governor. " $\st January. "Spent the morning receiving visits from the principal men of the city. " \st February. " Breakfasted with Mr. Stocking a grand spread. Met all the community. Pierre not being able to accompany us farther we engaged a German servant John by name very highly recommended by Dr. Wright. His former history was certainly extra- ordinary, and his adventures rather different from what one would suppose should befall a man bearing so high a character for honesty as he did. However, we were fully repaid by confiding in Dr. Wright's recommenda- tion. " Started at half past 2 P.M. Messrs. Wright, Stocking, etc., accompanying us part of the way. They certainly form a community of as kind people as I ever met. We rode four hours into Ardishei, and put up at Mar Gabriel's house. He received us very hospitably, but we were immensely bothered by the curiosity of the natives. The road was very muddy from the thawing snow and the rich quality of the soil. " zd February. " Snowing hard, and the country almost impassable. Started at twelve o'clock. The small irrigation canals being swollen to a great height, two of our mules fell into the stream, and we found to our dismay that the mule that carried our store-box or larder was one of them. We were particularly disgusted at its occurring vi OUR LARDER GONE! 57 then, as one box was full of dainties provided for our journey by Mrs. Wright's kind forethought such as chicken, mince-pies, and European bread and butter. The snow-drifts we encountered were tremendous neither horses nor mules would face them. As soon as they perceived them they turned their backs on them, we lying down on their backs to escape the cutting wind. Arrived at a quarter past three o'clock at Kermi and found very fair quarters. " $d February. " Off at a quarter past ten. Crossed a large river by a bridge. The road was good, lying along the side of the lake. Fine morning. Arrived at Garkan a village built on a promontory stretching into the lake. Quarters pretty fair but bitterly cold. " 4th February. " Off at 9 A.M. The road at first lay along the side of the lake until i P.M., when it turned west, crossing a small chain of hills. As long as we kept on the lee of the latter we were very comfortable, but as soon as ever we reached the top and began to descend the weather side, we were exposed to a fear- fully cold west wind which nearly shaved the skin off our faces. After descending the hills and going through a miserable hour's ride in the plains of Sulduz, we reached a small Kourdish village, where we were obliged to stop on account of the river being impass- able from the ice. At first the inhabitants were in- clined to be uncivil, but soon finding that we intended to pay for what we got, they lodged and treated us well enough. The men are a fine independent-look- ing set, the women in general well -looking some 58 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP, vi very pretty. The plain is almost entirely sown with wheat. I do not remember seeing a single garden. The villages are surrounded by large mounds of ashes instead of manure, as the inhabitants use the dung of their cattle for firing. " 5 th February. "Off at a quarter to 10 A.M. The road for two hours lay over the plain leading us through thick jungles of bulrushes. We kept a sharp lookout for game, but saw none. Having at length found a place to ford the river, we joined the regular road and arrived at Vasje Bulak by 7 P.M. The cold was in- tense. There being no room in the good caravanserai, we were obliged to put up with a very small one, so we had to go without our dinner both which circum- stances went far to sour my temper." CHAPTER VII TTJV 8' cis TOVS Ka/x5ovx ov ? f[A/3oXr)v 5Se TTOIOWTGU . . . S' airrtov evTavOa, 7Tt7rt7TTet ^twv aTrAeros, wore a.TTKpv\f/ KGU TO, 6V Aa KOU TOVS dvOpiairows KaraKet^evovs' KCU TO, vTro^vyia o-weTreS^o-ev 17 Xiwv* KCU TroAus OKVOS ^v avi(TTao-^at. XEN. Anab. iv. 1-4. And thus they made entry into Kourdistan. . . . And as they were bivouacking there the snow came down heavily, insomuch that it shrouded their accoutrements and the men as they lay ; and it be- numbed the beasts of burden ; and great was their reluctance to rise. " 6th February. " TURNING out with fearful appetites we made a clean sweep of the rest of our ham and fifteen eggs, and then sent our letters of recommendation to the Governor, who forthwith despatched his ferash to move us and baggage to his house. We were re- ceived by him in his judgment-hall, a considerable- sized room. We found him and a lot of Kourds sitting round a large charcoal pan. His Highness was seated in an armchair, while all his followers squatted on their hunkers. When we entered he immediately stood up, and motioned us to sit in arm- chairs that were placed at his side. We were then served with kalcouns and tea. The judgment cere- mony lasted three hours, during which time, as out ' of respect to our host we were obliged to hold our tongues, we had ample leisure to study his face and costume and those of his companions. 60 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. " They were all fine-looking men, but he was by far the handsomest man I ever saw. Their splendid cos- tumes, in my eyes handsomer than either Turks', Arabs', or Persians', showed off their fine manly coun- tenances to great advantage immense turbans of silk, striped white and brown silk kaftans, confined at the waist by a strap fastened by a richly-embossed silver clasp, and over all a cloak, lined, according to their rank, with sheepskin or fine fur, and all of course armed to the teeth. "After the important business of the judgment- hall was over, our host turned and salaamed to us with great courtesy, insisting on our remaining his guests during our stay in the town that is, until we could find mules and decide on which route to take. He also volunteered to do everything in his power to help us on the road. "We found it very difficult to ascertain anything about the routes, each man we asked giving a different report. One said he had attempted the short route by Leggan, but had been obliged to turn back. A second said that even the long route by Suleimania was im- passable. A third said that if we would wait five days for his mules he would take us the short way. The Governor strongly recommended us not to attempt it ; but, having made up our minds to face every difficulty, we determined to accept our third friend's offer. "After sunset, dinner was brought in on three trays, which were placed on the floor, one before our host, a second before Torn and Wood, and a third before me. We accordingly set to work, Tom and Wood slobbering away with their hands. I ho.d fortu- nately a camp-knife and fork in my pocket and got on vii KOURDISH DINNER AND ITS RESULTS 61 passably, first attacking a very rich-looking mess ; but having swallowed one mouthful was obliged to desist, feeling very much the worse. The dish consisted of rotten cabbage, stewed in vinegar and oil, flavoured with a very nasty sort of spice. I next attacked a greasy pilau. Knowing that it always contained some- thing in the shape of meat inside, I set to work to burrow, and at length succeeded in hauling out the back of a lamb, which I began to eat but, the Gover- nor having finished, etiquette obliged me to come to also. In vain I waited for another tray to make its appearance. The washing of hands followed, and I had to consider myself as having dined. "In the evening we endeavoured to amuse the Governor by showing him different things. He was much surprised at the daguerreotype of Hoddy [his sister Harriet]. He expressed great admiration and said, How happy would a man be with such a wife ! He left us about 8 P.M. " 7/7* February. " Unsuccessful in our search for other mules. About 3 P.M. the Khan made his appearance and showed us his chain armour, which was certainly very handsome. Greasy dinner followed by a stupid evening. " %th February, "In the morning word was brought that the Khan was sick and wished one of us to see him, so Wood went and found him labouring under an attack of greasy dinner. He gave him some medicine which, in the evening, on being sent for again, he found his Highness would not take, because it smelt nasty. Wood, however, managed to coax it down his throat. 62 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. His illness gave us a long day's peace, in saving us from his visit, which, although good-naturedly intended, was an atrocious bore. " ()th February. " Khan better. Started at i P.M. on a duck-shoot- ing expedition along the banks of a good-sized stream which runs close to the town. After some trouble and a good freezing we succeeded in killing a brace. On our return we found the Khan quite recovered. Wood's revolving pistol was exhibited for the fourth time at his usual visit, and at 9 P.M. the Khan left us, heartily sick of his company. " ioth February. "Wet day. Had prayers in the morning. "nth February. " Got ready to start to see some antiquities, but, the day coming down wet, we were obliged to put it off till some more auspicious time. " 1 2th February. " The day being as fine as we could expect, we set off, and after a canter of about twelve miles arrived at the place. It was a large square tomb, sculptured out of the solid rock, something like the tombs of Beni Hassan on the Nile. Coming home we went along the riverside in hopes of getting some game, but were unsuccessful. In the evening Tom got an attack of fever lasting to the i6th. The man's mules having come in, he was in a hurry to be off, but Tom not being sufficiently strong we made him wait in his turn. vii SNOW UP TO THE SADDLE-GIRTHS 63 " \lth February, " Had prayers in the morning. Tom being much better, and the day much warmer, we took a ride to some curious soda-water springs about three miles from the town. The water bubbles out of the solid rock, and is very good to drink, but rather flat. " \%th February. " Sent for the muleteer to load, Tom being quite recovered, but he refused to go, saying he had to shoe his mules a lie, of course. The truth was, he wanted to stay for another large caravan which was to start the next day. " igth February. " Got off at about 10.30 A.M. The first part of the ride was pleasant enough, but when we began to ascend and get into the snow it became bitterly cold, and our difficulties began in earnest. The large cara- van, which consisted of seventy horses laden with iron, having gone before to beat down the snow, made the first part of the ascent tolerably easy at least when compared to what followed. But when we got near the top, our mules being more lightly loaded, we had passed the caravan, and were obliged to chalk out the road for ourselves ; there was not a track to be seen nothing but a sheet of smooth shining snow gradually ascending till it was lost in the clouds, which, to better our condition, were gathering fast on the mountain - top we had to pass over. Our horses were wading up to the saddle-girths, and sometimes falling into a ravine which had been filled up by a snow-drift, when nothing was visible but our own heads and sometimes the horse's nose and tail. It certainly was the most disheartening business I ever 64 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. went through. However, as there could be no going back, we had to put the best face on it we could. At last we reached the top of the hill, where the snow nearly blinded us. "Then began the descent, which was much quicker work than the ascent sometimes rather faster than we wished. Our horses being too wise to attempt to walk down, tucked their legs under them and slid down at a tremendous rate, the mules generally rolling down the best way they could. Having at last reached the bottom, after an hour's easy riding we came to a small village, where we got a room and lit a fire, but the smoke soon obliged us to seek other means of keeping ourselves warm. Our cook swore he was so cold he could not prepare anything, which, I believe, as he was very lazy, was only an excuse although the thermometer was below 1 1 F. " 2oth February. " Off about 9 A.M. Sleeting hard. Got wet through. Cleared up at noon, and the wind rising froze our clothes on us, making them as hard as sheet -iron. At 3 P.M. got into snow again and lost our way. The mules soon got thoroughly done up with wading in it, and we were obliged to come to ; so scooping a hole in the snow we ensconced ourselves among our horses and boxes. Luckily, having a cooked chicken and some bread with us, we did not starve, although it was a small pittance for ourselves and three servants. Getting two bottles of port and one of arrack, we drank deep healths to our friends at home, wishing that they might never find themselves in such a plight. We then wrapped ourselves in our wolfskins and chose our respective places. I got vii FLOUNDERING THROUGH SNOW 65 under my horse as a sort of shelter from an approach- ing snowstorm. However, as he was rather uneasy in the night and trod on me several times, it would have been better to have borne the brunt of the weather. My clothes also thawing, I had to undergo a trial of the water cure. " 2 1 st February, " Wood's horse, getting loose in the morning, began fighting with my horse, and soon routed me out. Not caring to sleep again, I woke the others, and we made preparations for getting under way. Off a little after 9 A.M., floundering through the snow. Sometimes we got tremendous falls into ravines which had been frozen over and the hollows filled with snow-drifts. In such cases we had to dismount and pull the wretched animal out by the tail and neck, and then taking all our carpets and cloaks lay them across to form a sort of bridge for the mules. "After seven hours of this work, during which we accomplished a distance of some four miles from the place where we slept, we arrived at the side of the mountain, and were lucky enough to find a large cave with plenty of firewood in it. We accordingly got in, picketing our horses at the mouth, and, lighting a large fire inside, the cave became so full of smoke as to drive us nearly mad. " 22d February. " The muleteers saying they must stop at least a day to rest their mules, Tom and I went out with our guns to try and get something for dinner, and were lucky enough to get a brace and a half of snipe. We were obliged to give the greater part of our stock of bread to the horses, for which we had no provender. We also sent one of the muleteers to F 66 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. a village about three hours off to engage twelve guides, as next day we had to cross a worse part than we had encountered, and also to bring some food for ourselves and horses. He returned about sunset, fetching a pair of fowls, some bread, and a bag of rice for the beasts, there being no barley. He said that the guides would meet us at the beginning of the pass next day. "After dinner we were surprised by the arrival of a large caravan of about a hundred and twenty horses. They described the pass as almost impractic- able sixty horses were obliged to leave their loads and make the best of their way forward without them. Shortly after two men were carried in insensible, and Wood was sent for to try and bring them to. With one he succeeded, but the other was too far gone. " 2$d February. " Having fortified ourselves with a tolerable break- fast and a dram of brandy, we set out for the pass. About an hour from the cave we came to the spot where the muleteers had been obliged to leave their loads the night before. Sixty loads all stood about in the snow, some of them half a mile off the right track. There were large dogs left to guard them. Poor animals ! they must have had a cold night of it. After a good deal of labour, tumbling, and rolling, we at length got into Riaz. The road was much less difficult than I had expected. It was bitterly cold the thermometer never ranging above 15 F " 24/7* February " When we wanted to start we found the courtyard gate locked. On telling them to open it, they refused vii ON GUARD AT THE GATEWAY 67 until we should pay them a considerable sum. We declined, and drawing our pistols, told the landlord that if he did not open it at once, we would blow his brains out. He saw we were in earnest, and that our pistols were not likely to miss fire. He began to growl, and said he would take half. A pistol was immediately presented at his head, which decided the matter, and the door was opened without more ado." [Mrs. Bruen, from a conversation held years after with Arthur, adds : " The armed villagers still threaten- ing to close the one outlet, he saw the danger, and suddenly forcing his horse into the open gateway, guarded it with his rifle, until every member of the party had safely left the yard, and then he quietly rejoined them."] "We had not gone far when John found that they had stolen his coat. We forthwith returned and made them give it up. They had stolen Tom's rifle the evening before, but he recovered it by offering a reward. " Had an attack of rheumatism in my chest. The scenery was wild and beautiful. Arrived about 3 P.M. at a small village. Beastly quarters their cows being stabled with us. "2$th February. " Off by 9 A.M. Having got out of the snow, we went on comfortably enough. The road was very steep. Arrived at Roandoze at half -past one, and had good quarters. " 262/1 February. " Stopped to rest the mules. 68 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. " 27 th and 2%th February, "Went by a fearfully bad road, ending in worse quarters ; rain pouring the whole time. " isf March. " Got into the plain. Saw lots of gazelles and wild goats. We were entertained by the sheikh of the village." [It must have been about this stage of the journey that the party lighted on the track of the two English- men who had some years before ventured on the same route Messrs. Conolly and Studdert the first Europeans, they were told, who had come that way. Arthur mentions the incident in his book pub- lished long afterwards The Cruise of the Eva, from which I transcribe it, as here falling into its proper place. "In Kourdistan I found poor Conolly 's prayer-book, and was shown by an interesting Kourd the very tree to which he and poor Studdert were tied and foully murdered, the Kourd said, because they would not become Mussulmans. We had no intention of being turncoats either, but I expect we owed our whole skins to our poverty, possessing little more than our horses, rifles, and a change of clothes, one shirt off and another shirt on. I don't mean to say that these were all we started with, but certainly they were all we had left, and the Kourds may have reasoned that it was hardly worth risking their precious lives in exchange for ours, the value of our possessions included. They all dread the shining of a copper cap. They saw the glare of our caps once, but to this day I do not know how we escaped."] vii FERRIED OVER THE ZAB 69 " 2d March. "Left at 4 A.M. in hopes of being able to get over the river Zab and reach Mosul by night. Arrived at the river by sunrise. The mules were unloaded and swam across. We and our luggage were ferried over on a small raft, about the size of an ordinary dinner- table. The river was about a quarter of a mile in width, and the current tolerably strong. The raft had to make seven voyages, so that we were delayed till about 3 P.M., when, it beginning to rain, we were obliged to make for the nearest village, where we got a miserable hole as quarters. It being too late to cook anything, we bought some boiled fowl from the natives, on which we made a very scanty dinner. " 3jth September. " Started at 4 A.M. Got at twelve noon to a very pretty encampment on the Haroumabad river. Dis- covered an antique balcony cut out of the solid rock, about ten feet from the ground. Made our beds there, and slept till sundown, when we had a bath in the river. " 28/7* September. " Off at 4.30 A.M. Marched to 10 A.M., then halted at the top of a high mountain pass for the mules to arrive, but discovered that we had outmarched our station by about two hours. Breakfasted, and then marched till 3.30 P.M., when we got into a very dirty station, with only salt-water springs. " 29/7* September. " Got to Nazr-el-Khan. " 30//& September. " Encamped in a pretty small valley at the junction of two streams. "3irf September. " The road was steep but very pretty, something like travelling through an English park. Encamped on a small hill in sight of Haroumabad. " ist October. "Off at 6.30 A.M. Dressed in full fig. Met Golumjeer, elder brother of ' Plait a Dieu,' with a crowd of horsemen outside the town. They went ix THE PLAIN OF ALESHTAN 95 through the jereed exercise for our entertainment. Some of them did it very well. At length we arrived, thoroughly dusty and tired. We were very well lodged in the Prince-Governor's house, a very fine place with a large garden and an immense tank of water. We got lots of the finest grapes and melons we ever tasted, besides apples, pears, pomegranates, quinces, etc., in the greatest abundance. " 2d October. " We went to the bath, escorted by a regiment of soldiers to protect us from the mob. " 3v TC /cat a&xvcmov ay ft 8iKcu<3v TO ftia.ioTa.TOV FIND. ed. Christ. Frag. 28. King of all things mortal and immortal, Law establishes with omnipotent hand the supreme constraint of Justice. Ce n'est ni la force du nombre, ni la puissance populaire, ni la liberte meme qui doit preValoir : c'est une e*quite" souveraine, analogue a la Providence divine elle-meme. VILLEMAIN. There is no Nation of People under the Sun that doth love equal and indifferent Justice better than the Irish ; or will rest better satisfied with the Execution thereof, although it be against themselves ; so as they may have the Protection and Benefit of the Law, when upon just Cause they do desire it. Sir JOHN DAVIS, Attorney- General of Ireland under King James I. MR. KAVANAGH took no part in any debate subse- quent to that on the Poor Law Rating Bill until 1870, when the Right Honourable Chichester Fortescue, Chief Secretary for Ireland, introduced his Peace Preservation Act. On this measure his views may be given at some length, as they will be read with profit in the light of events which necessitated more stringent legislation. The scope of the Bill was merely temporary. Its provisions were to remain operative pending those 1 84 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. remedial measures which were to put an end to the discontent of which agrarian crime was the expression. It was carried by an overwhelming majority, which included supporters of the Opposition as well as of the Government, and of course Mr. Kavanagh voted for it. But he did not do so without words of warning, which history has amply justified. He drew attention to the fact that no remedial legislation can effect the slightest diminution of crime when this proceeds from no sense of wrong on the part of a peasantry "plundered and oppressed by their landlords," but from influences arising from the perennial aspiration of so-called patriots to sever Ireland from Great Britain plotters who by every art known to the revolutionist play upon the susceptibilities of the ignorant, the impressionable, and the impulsive, and treat all such legislation as but a grudging concession of rights unjustly withheld. He asked how it came to pass "that, little more than a week having elapsed since a measure of an unquestionably exceptional nature had passed the second reading, guaranteeing to the Irish peasant security of tenure, they should now be engaged in devising means to ensure to the Irish landlord security of life?" The necessity for some such measure as that before the House was, he showed, "unquestionable and urgent." In his opinion it had only been too long postponed. But in promising to give it his earnest support, he could not refrain from glancing at what appeared to him to be two of the principal causes which had brought about this present unparalleled crisis ; they were ceaseless, reckless, unprincipled agitation, and feebleness and partiality on the part xvn PEACE PRESERVATION ACT 185 of the Government in their administration of the law. Having given as. specimens of the agitation in question some extracts from incendiary speeches by Roman Catholic clergymen, he " would ask the Govern- ment if one man paid, or otherwise incited, another man to commit a murder, was the former not amen- able to the law ? Was it less culpable, then, to excite to a general massacre of an entire class, than to an individual assassination? If the law as it at present stood did not give the Government power to take notice of speeches of that nature, why did they not seek for that power which Parliament would gladly give them in this Bill ? But if the present law did give them the power, why had they not used it ? " He asked, if the two reverend agitators had been ministers of the disestablished Church, would they be allowed with impunity to incite to such deeds ? " All he could say was, Heaven forbid they should ! He was sorry to be obliged to say it, but he believed it to be true, that such had been the policy of Her Majesty's Government since they came into office. The policy of the previous administration in some cases was very near akin to it. Fenian processions the noble Earl, now Governor-General of India (the Earl of Mayo), permitted unnoticed, or nearly so, while Orange processions were stopped by force, and their leaders thrown into prison. He was not an Orangeman. He deprecated, as strongly as any man could, such processions, or any act calculated to give offence ; but he did like even-handed justice. With- out it, those whom they tried to conciliate would scorn and despise them, and in the minds of those who 1 86 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. suffered from their injustice they raised feelings of bitter hate. " He would conclude by asking Her Majesty's Government gravely to consider the vast importance of the present crisis, to remember that it was from no earthly Hand they held the power for weal or woe, and before more blood was spilt to do justice and fear not." ' Those impressive words, from the lips of one whose clear insight into both sides of the complicated Irish question enabled him to judge it fairly and in a states- man-like spirit, were not without their effect. But this, as usual, was evanescent, as the powers conferred by the Bill were to lapse within a limited period. While all such legislation has been fitful, the move- ment it seeks to arrest has been continuous, and in their journey down stream the brazen pot of agitation has invariably wrecked the earthen pot of repression. Nothing but a steady enforcement of the law for the good of Ireland, unswayed by party exigencies, can command the respect of the ill-disposed on the one hand, or the confidence of the well-disposed on the other. Legislation in Ireland for the protection of the minority is very apt to be called " coercion " by those who feel it as a deterrent ; but the plausible misnomer was so clearly exposed in a speech Mr. Kavanagh delivered on 22d March 1875, in the debate on the second reading of Sir Michael Hicks Beach's Peace Preservation (Ireland) Bill, that some extracts from it will not be inopportune. He said, " That he should not have trespassed on the time of the House, but for some remarks of the noble Lord the member for Westmeath (Lord Robert COERCION" 187 Montagu), who had denounced the conduct of this country towards Ireland as grossly tyrannical and coercive. That strain was taken up by hon. members opposite, and echoed and re-echoed until at last an hon. member found in the Irish famine the curse of British rule. The hon. member went further than that, and said the result of English policy had been to turn the population of Ireland into rebels. He (Mr. Kavanagh) thought the hon. member must have been carried away by his feelings, for he could hardly have remembered what the state of affairs was at that time ; he could hardly have remembered that if it had not been for the charity and generosity with which England went to the aid of Ireland in that hour of need, the people would not have lived to be rebels, but would have perished with want. He had never yet heard it said that, with all their faults, the Irish people were want- ing in gratitude, and the hon. member for Meath must have forgotten himself in making such a remark. " He (Mr. Kavanagh) endorsed the old saying that ' Speech is silver, and silence is gold ' ; but they might be too silent, and he felt bound, on behalf of his constituents, to come forward now, and not allow the imputation to be cast upon them that they were either participators in, or sympathisers with, the crimes against which these acts were framed. His constitu- ents regretted with him, sincerely and earnestly, the necessity which first caused the adoption of them, and which he regretted to believe made their continuance imperative. "Against what was the law relating to murder framed ? Was it not against the crime of murder ? Who felt it as a restraint or coercion ? Was it not i88 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KA VANAGH CHAP. those who committed murder ? Who felt the law against the administration of unlawful oaths to be coercive ? Was it not the conspirator ? Who felt the law enacted against the writing of threatening letters as coercive ? Was it not the dastardly coward ? and crime made dastardly cowards of all her votaries. " Those laws were not felt as coercive or as restraints save by those who wanted to break them, and he believed that they could have no stronger proof of the necessity for their continuance than the fact that they were felt as a restraint. Those laws, to the well-disposed and peaceable inhabitants, were a protection, not a restraint ; and he thought that hon. members opposite paid their constituents a very sorry compliment by representing them as groaning under the oppression of laws that were directed against such crimes. . . . " His constituents felt with him sorrow and regret that Her Majesty's Government, who were responsible for the peace of the country, should be obliged to come to that House to ask for such power ; but he emphatically denied that his constituents felt those laws either as a restraint or a coercion. He confidently asserted that, for the last four years, since the mad dream of Fenianism had vanished, no case either of arrest or prosecution had taken place in the County of Carlow. As far as that County was con- cerned, therefore, these acts were a dead letter, and he might say, on his conscience, that they might be repealed without the slightest risk, so far as regarded the County of Carlow, if the Government chose to show that mark of favour to a well-disposed and peaceable part of the country. . . . " He wished from his heart that the same could be said for the other parts of Ireland ; he wished from his CONTROL OF THE LIQUOR-TRADE heart that hon. members opposite, instead of exciting the passions of the people by describing to them the Peace Preservation Act as one of tyranny, would show them how, if they ceased to desire to commit crime, the law would cease to oppress, and the so-called yoke to gall." In May 1875 the "Sale of Intoxicating Liquors on Sunday (Ireland) Bill" came on for second reading, and it received his cordial support. He had not always approved of it, but he states the motives that induced him to change his views on the expediency of the measure, in a short speech so liberal in its tone and so sound in its reasoning, that now, when the subject of temperance is so much before the country, it too may be read with profit. He said, that, "in supporting the second reading of the Bill, he felt constrained to assign some of the reasons which had induced him to alter his opinion on the subject. He had hitherto resisted its passage, on the ground that he thought it savoured of class legislation, and that it was an interference with the rights of the working man ; but further consideration of the subject had led him to think more favourably of it, and induced him to form the opinion, that when society was unable to regulate its own actions in accordance with the rules of propriety, then it was time for, and the duty of, the Legislature to interfere. " He had had brought before him overwhelming evidence of the evils produced in Ireland by Sunday drinking, and of the overwhelming desire of the great body of the people that the Legislature should deal with the matter as proposed by the Bill now before the House. He had heard many objections urged, but he was not scared by the fear that the 190 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. passing of this Bill would lead to what some described as private and illicit drinking. He knew the people well, and he did not believe that, although easily led and prone to yield to temptation, their character was that of besotted drunkards. So far from it, the Irish people possessed many high and many estimable qualities, the standard of morality of the nation was considerably above the average, and, if we could provide or guard against two principal causes, Ireland might challenge the world for immunity from crime. " The two causes to which he alluded were these first, disloyalty and discontent, originating in past mismanagement, and now kept alive by unceasing agitation, with the crimes which had grown out of that cause. Government had been endeavouring to deal with it of late, and, he was sorry to say, had met with but qualified success, and for this reason, that legislation had been directed to lop the branch, and not to cut the root. " The second cause of crime in Ireland was drunken- ness, and in coming here that day to ask the House to pass that Bill, they were asking the House not to lop the branch, not to deal only with effect, but to lay the axe to the root, for he believed that Sunday drinking was the most prolific cause of the crimes which filled the Irish calendars, and Irish members came there with one accord to ask Parlia- ment to mitigate that evil, and remove the tempta- tion. . . . "He should say no more, but give the second reading of the Bill his most cordial support." In the same spit-it he discharged his duties as Justice of the Peace, a position in which his absolute equity and determination to strengthen the hands of xvii CRIME AND ITS PUNISHMENT 191 Government by enforcing respect for the law were eminently conspicuous. The Rev. George W. Rooke (precentor of St. Canice's Cathedral, Kilkenny, and for many years previously private chaplain at Borris) kindly contri- butes the following: " I can well remember the evening of a sad day when a murder had been committed in the village. From the circumstances of the case, it was very difficult to detect those who were guilty. But his judgment and his patience overcame every obstacle. Regardless, as usual, of personal ease, he remained at the Court-House till the small hours of the morning, examining witnesses and investigating every minute detail, till evidence pointed in the right direction. And it was mainly through his persever- ance that the murderer was convicted and the ends of justice finally attained." Again Mr. Sweetman sends me a characteristic anecdote, which he thus introduces : " Since his appointment as Lord Lieutenant of the County Carlow in 1880, all his recommendations for the Magistracy were based on an intimate know- ledge of the requirements of the district and of the capabilities of those whom he recommended. "As an illustration of what he considered to be the duty of a magistrate, I will mention a case that occurred at the Borris Petty Sessions many years ago. A man was summoned for trespass in pursuit of game. The offence was fully proved, but the Bench was divided in opinion as to the amount of punishment to be meted out to him it having come to the ears of one of the magistrates present that he was a poacher although never before brought up on that charge. After some discussion, 192 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP, xvn Mr. Kavanagh said : ' Recollect, we are here to punish and not to persecute ; and any amount of penalty you inflict on this man beyond that which the case now before us deserves would, in my opinion, be persecution.' " I remember on one occasion," continues Mr. Sweetman, " telling him that I found great fault with his voting for the retention of flogging in the army and navy. His reply was : ' I am as much against flogging as you are, but, under existing circumstances, I did not like to be a party to removing that power from the authorities.' " CHAPTER XVIII Arthur MacMurrough Kavanagh, a landlord of landlords. SIR CHARLES RUSSELL (Opening Speech for the Defence before the Parnell Commission, p. 257). IN January 1877 m ' s eldest son, Walter, attained his majority, but, for family reasons, its celebration was postponed till the following October. A dinner and ball to the tenantry of the three counties Carlow, Kilkenny, and Wexford and festivities for the gentry heralded his assumption of man's estate. Surrounded by his family, then an unbroken circle, and welcomed by all, Walter took his position as heir to the " Chief of the Sept and Nation," and entered on its responsibilities amid the blessings of his father's dependents. A deputation from the Carlow and Wexford tenantry waited on him with a congratulatory address, which was signed by the Rev. P. Carey, P.P. of Borris, and presented by him on their behalf. 1 In that address, couched in terms of admiration for the father and of fair augury for the son, it will be found that, with every desire to express the hearti- ness of their good will, they could frame no higher wish than that the son should resemble the father. Nothing 1 Appendix C. o 194 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. better or more hopeful for themselves could they conceive than the realisation of that wish certainly nothing better for the object of it. And, in unison with this, at the dinner to the tenantry, Father Carey used the following words in proposing the health of Mrs. Kavanagh. Alluding to her loyal co-operation with her husband in his efforts for the good of the people, and especially to her establishment of the Borris Clothing Club, etc., he said " She has done all this and much more without any alloy or taint of bigotry. In this, as in many other social virtues, she resembles her beloved husband (cheers), for he is not only a good landlord that is, he never raises the rent and never puts out a tenant who pays a fair rent (loud cheers) but he assists and does good to his people, props the tottering tenant, helps the weak, and builds houses for the poor (renewed applause). May the prayers of the poor obtain for him blessings for time and eternity." Two of Mr. Kavanagh's speeches at that dinner the first to introduce his son in his new position, the second in reply to the toast of his own health must be given in full, as conveying his hearty response to the good feeling shown by the people, as well as the strong grounds they had for their love and loyalty. After giving the toast of Her Majesty the Queen, which was heartily honoured, he said " My friends, the next toast I have to propose is the health of my son Walter, on the occasion of his having attained his majority within the present year. It may seem somewhat singular that I should do so myself, and not, as would be perhaps more usual, have left it to be proposed by some one among you, as I am sure it would have been with all the earnestness and xvin HIS SON'S COMING OF AGE 195 heartiness of your kindly nature ; but the occasion of our meeting here to-day is not one of ordinary occurrence. " To my son, I need not tell you, it is an era in his life, and to you and me it is an event of scarcely less importance, considering the strong ties of mutual interest and, I hope I may say, of warm friendship which bind us all together. " I need not now dilate upon the well-established fact of the identity of interest of landlord and tenant. I need not tell you that, even without that great tie of clanship which, if history speaks truth, has bound us and our ancestors together during centuries that are past and up to the present time, our interests are so interwoven, so identical, that neither prosperity nor adversity can touch the one and leave the other untouched. That is, I . think, a fact that must be apparent to you all : if any great calamity or pressure were to come on you it must fall on me too, and, on the other hand, if I get into embarrassed or needy circumstances, I lose the power of affording help to individual cases in the hour of adversity I lose the power, no matter how much I may possess the will, of either protecting or advancing your interests in the many ways that only a landlord can. That is what I term our identity of interest, and it is, as bearing upon that, that I regard the occasion of our meeting here to-day, when I introduce to you my son, who will, with God's blessing, hereafter occupy my place and have charge of your interests, as an event of no mean importance to you all. "It is, then, regarding it in that light that I have taken this part of the proceedings upon myself, and partly because I feel that on an occasion like the ig6 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. present there is no one more fitting to wish to another every blessing, temporal and eternal, than a father to a son. That is my apology, boys, for perhaps spoiling the part and taking upon myself that which might have been performed in a more graceful manner and in more fitting terms by many others, and, having thus prefaced, as it were, what I have to say, I must bid you all a hearty welcome, and thank you from my heart for your kindness in coming here to-day. " It is no empty phrase that I use, for I look upon your presence as an unmistakable token of that kindly feeling and affection which I most highly prize not only prize as coming from yourselves now, but as the unbroken continuance of those feelings which have existed between your forefathers and my own for ages past, feelings the true warmth of which is seldom found save in Irish hearts and on Irish soil. I am sure if those old mountains which bound our barony could speak to us their experience and recount to us the scenes that they have witnessed, they could tell of many a gathering such as this, when our ancestors met to rejoice together and congratulate each other upon some kind act of Providence. It may have been on some signal victory as the conquerors on some hard-fought field for, if history speaks the truth, hard knocks and broken heads were the custom of the day. It may have been in more peaceful times, on some such occasion as we are met to celebrate to-day ; but the object matters not, the feelings that drew them together were the same, and I am thankful and proud to believe that the same feelings of kindly interest, of mutual trust and friend- ship, and, I think I may add, of warm affection, which existed between them, have been handed down to us, their descendants, unimpaired in warmth, unaltered xvin HIS SON'S COMING OF AGE 197 by circumstances, and, more than all, untired by time. "It is as a proof of this, one more among the many that you have shown me during the time I have been among you, that I thank you for your presence here to-day, and on my own part, need I assure you, that it is now what it always has been a pleasure to me to meet you. I would ask, can any one doubt, can any one wonder that I should feel both pride and pleasure in finding myself surrounded by such an assembly as that which I now address ? Surrounded by men, many of them old and well-tried friends, among whom I have passed the greater portion of my life in uninterrupted harmony and friendship, and by women too whose cordial greetings and kindly smiles have never been wanting to afford to me a hearty welcome when I went amongst you, the wonder would be, not that I should feel thankfulness and pleasure in this, the wonder would be if I did not, and if I did not, among all the rich blessings which God has poured upon me, prize as among the richest that which is the brightest jewel in a monarch's crown a people's love. " Time flies fast, and it is now some two-and- twenty years since I had the pleasure of meeting many of you on this same spot. I use the word many of you, because I cannot use the word all. During the lapse of that time, many who then met me here have passed away, and I miss from among your numbers the face of many a tried and valued friend ; but such is life ! and I must not now dwell upon the sad features of a retro- spect. But, as I have said, it is now two-and-twenty years since I met many of you on this same spot. On that occasion it was my good fortune to have to introduce to you my wife. I told you then, if memory serves me 198 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. right, that, as years roiled on, and as you came to know her, you would learn to love and value her for herself. 1 do not claim to be a prophet, but I think my words were true. You welcomed her then for my sake, but now I think she has gained for herself a place in your hearts that I could never give her. " Now I meet you here to introduce to you my son on the occasion, as I have already told you, of his having attained to the age of manhood and responsibility, and in doing so I will use the same words which have already proved such a happy omen, and say that I hope, as years roll on, and as you come to know him really well, you will learn to love and value him for himself, and that he, on his part, remembering and realising to the full the immense responsibility attached to the position, which I trust God will spare him to fill, will try to deserve your confidence and win your love, and that, having won it, he will guard it as a prize that gold could never buy. I think I can promise that for him with every confidence. I think I can promise that, no matter what temptations the world may hold out to him, the old blood that runs in his veins will never let him forget the duty that he owes to his people, and that the real, the true meaning of the word landlord is the tenant's friend. " I will say no more. His introduction to you now is, in a way, but a formal matter, for he is known to most of you, and has been brought up amongst you, and will, I hope, with the blessing of God, spend his life amongst you. I hope when his time comes, as please God it will, to enact the same scene which we are met to celebrate to-day, he will be able to pass on to his descendants and to yours, in unbroken love and unimpaired integrity, the trust, the confidence, and OUR LANDLORD" 199 the affection of a happy, a prosperous, and a loving people." To this speech, which was loudly applauded from point to point, and hailed with quite a storm of cheer- ing at its close, Walter made a worthy reply, after which the toast of "Our Landlord," fittingly assigned to Mr. Sweetman, J.P., was proposed in these words " This toast requires no words of mine to cause it to be received by this assembly with affectionate and enthusiastic respect Our Landlord. He has now been over us for upwards of a quarter of a century, and during that period I defy I was goin'g to say his enemies, but I really believe he has not one I defy any one to show one single act of harsh treatment on his part towards any of his tenantry. On the contrary, his kindly feeling towards them, and his anxiety to pro- mote their prosperity and to increase their comforts, are proverbial. If any of them gets into a difficulty, when brought before him, he will assist him, nurse him out of it, and, if the man deserves it, set him going again. "It is a well-known fact that, when the cattle disease visited his estates, he in many cases replaced the stock lost by his tenants ; but those feelings of kindness towards those under him are hereditary ; they come to him from a long, long line of ancestors royal ancestors of whom history tells us of sacrifices made in olden times in protecting the interests of their followers and dependents. I have a vivid recollection at one time, in an assembly such as this, of hearing his princely father say, ' I am fond of my tenants,' so that, in point of fact, he could not be otherwise than what he is : he knows the duties devolving on him, and he performs them. But as all those acts are so well known to every individual present, it would ill become me to 200 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. occupy your time, particularly in his presence, in dilat- ing on them. I will therefore call on you to drink to the health and long life of our good, kind, and just landlord." With Mr. Kavanagh's reply to this speech, received as loyally as it was given heartily, I may conclude the account of the rejoicings at Borris. His words were these " I am now to do what is perhaps the most difficult task of the day, and that is to try to return thanks adequate thanks I cannot but to express in words how deeply grateful I feel to my friend Mr. Sweetman for the kind way in which he has proposed, and to you for the warm manner in which you have drunk, my health. I wish I could practically realise the truth that ' out of the abundance of the heart the mouth speaketh.' In my case it is nearly the direct opposite, for when I feel most I can say least, and now when I would much covet the gift of eloquence to try and express my feel- ings, I fail to find terms to thank you for the kindness you have done me. " I wish, my friends, I could think I deserved the warm eulogy Mr. Sweetman has passed upon me ; but although I cannot claim all the credit he ascribes to me, I am not, believe me, less grateful to him and to you for the high compliment you have both paid me, and for the credit you have given me for endeavouring to do my duty towards you. "It would be but a small part of the truth for me to say that I have, all through our intercourse, felt a real interest in you all. Not only that, but I have always, as I could not help, learned to look upon and regard our welfare as identical. But, my friends, no matter what efforts I might have made for your wel- " MAN'S I NCR A TITUDE ' fare, if they had not been seconded by you they would have availed little, so that I must not claim to myself the credit of all the success that God has been pleased to bless my efforts with. " I believe, my friends, there are few very few in any country who have been blessed with the amount of confidence you have placed in me. Day by day and year by year, as I marked its growth, I felt how great would be the account required of me if I either slighted or abused it. I have been among you, as my friend Mr. Sweetman said, some twenty-five years. I do not allude to the time previous to that, for I need not say that I was born among you, but during the twenty-five years I have had the management of my property nothing but the greatest unity and good feeling has existed between me and my tenantry the kindly greeting and cordial recognition when we met, and the hearty ' God bless and save you ' when we parted. Therefore, my friends, what I have to do now is not only to thank you and Mr. Sweetman for your kind- ness to me in drinking my health as you have done, but for the warm affection, trust, and friendship of a lifetime which, believe me, is far more than an ample reward for whatever I have been able to do." With the lapse of little more than two years all these relations were dissolved. The tenants, apparently so proud of their landlord, seduced by promises not to say threats with every demonstration of ingratitude and vindictiveness, con- tributed to create the majority that returned a stranger to represent the " Model County " in Parliament. The wound thus inflicted he felt most deeply, and it saddened his life till its close. It was for his people 202 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAP. that he felt it, even more than for himself; but, bitter as was his disappointment, he never relaxed his efforts for their good, though the relations that had so long subsisted between them and him for the happiness of both, were severed never to be renewed. Never again could he place the old trust in their professions of regard never again believe that, as he had stood by them, so they would stand by him. An end was made of all that when the declaration of the poll at Carlow on loth April gave the lie to their pledges, and proved that they had deserted him. On the day of the election, before the result of the poll was declared, he had to go to the County Kil- kenny to record his vote for the Conservative candidate Lord Arthur Butler. That evening there were bon- fires and illuminations in Borris and the surrounding country to celebrate his own defeat. The following letter to his wife shows the spirit in which he en- deavoured to face it : "nM April 1880. " Many thanks for your dear letter. "It would be folly to deny that the blow is a sharp one, but to me it was not unexpected, for I always felt how hollow was the ground we stood upon. "The sharpest part of it is the belief that is forced upon me that the majority of my own men broke their promises to me. My confidence in them is gone, and a great interest and pleasure in home-life gone with it. "That is the poisoned stab. If I could have believed them true, the actual defeat would be easy to bear, because I have nothing that I can see to be ashamed of in it. But to have to look forward to passing the rest of my life among them is almost more than I can do. xvin MR. PARNELL'S ITEMS 203 "I do not think more than forty of my fellows gave me a vote. But there is no good in brooding over it, and one must guard against the natural impulse to resent it, which God alone can help one to do. " Do not, my darling, fret yourself for me. I look upon the defeat as God's will, and try to take it as. such. That makes it lighter than I could have believed. " The sting that rankles is the treachery and deceit of my own men ' my own familiar friends in whom I trusted ' but that feeling must be choked. I wish I could say or do something to cheer your own dear self. Believe what is the real truth : that it is all for the best. It must be, as it was ordered so." l On the assembling of the new Parliament, Mr. Kavanagh's, like many another of the "old familiar faces," was missing. The representation of Ireland was entering on new conditions. The lowered franchise which five years later gave the illiterate peasant a vote (or rather multiplied votes for the parish priest to place at Mr. Parnell's disposal), flooded it with publicans, petty tradesmen, adventurers, and such like, who, holding their seats at the good pleasure of the "uncrowned king," made the clamour of obstruction their substitute for debate. Even when these men became Mr. Gladstone's supporters, of which of them from their leader downwards could he say : "A gentleman of whom I ever desire to speak with the greatest respect " ? This reference he made to Mr. Kavanagh at a 1 Appendix D. 204 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH CHAF. xvm time when the absence of the ex-member for Carlow's experience, sagacity, and judicial fairness had become more and more felt by the House. Irishmen of education, judgment, and experience, with but few exceptions, had now little chance of making known their views save from the platform or through the press, and among the numerous speeches and letters delivered or published from time to time, none were more opportune or statesmanlike than Mr. Kavanagh's. So anxious was he that the world should have an intelligent appreciation of the Irish Question and of the difficulties involved in its solution, that he was always ready to be interviewed by representatives of journals, American as well as British. Not only so, but he committed to writing, for circulation in official quarters, many statements of opinion and detailed memoranda, some of which given in later chapters will be found to have lost nothing of their value by their now, for the first time, seeing the light CHAPTER XIX Ad majorem Dei gloriam. Tovs EUR. /th January 1881. F, p. 220 At a meeting of the Mansion House Committee held 7th November 1882, the Right Hon. Sir John Whitaker Ellis, Lord Mayor, presiding, it was moved by the Lord Mayor, seconded by Viscount Folkestone, M.P., and carried with acclamation " That the thanks of the Committee of the Mansion APPENDICES 333 House Fund for the defence of property in Ireland are eminently due and are hereby conveyed to A. MacMurrough Kavanagh, Esq., who upon the invita- tion of the Committee and at much personal sacrifice of time and labour undertook the very difficult and responsible position of Commissioner for the due application of the funds to secure the very important ends for which it was raised. The loyal, fearless, and able manner in which these arduous duties have been performed by Mr. Kavanagh entitles him to the very hearty acknowledgment, not only of this Committee, but of all interested in the preservation of law and order and the restoration of peace and prosperity in the sister kingdom. "That this resolution be suitably emblazoned and framed and signed by the Lord Mayor " J. WHITAKER ELLIS." G, p. 300 EXTRACT from the SERMON by the Lord Bishop of Ossory, preached at St. Canice's Cathedral, Kil- kenny, at Morning Service on the 29th December the first Sunday after Mr. Kavanagh's death. " We have lost a great and a good man, one who was indeed a tower of strength, and whose removal is not only a private but a public loss. I shall not dwell at any length upon his public life ; it lives in the annals of his country, and has received a generous and appreciative notice in the press. Gifted with great mental power and firmness of character, he overcame difficulties which would have overwhelmed any ordinary man ; but by the sheer force of his worth and character he won among the foremost a foremost place. He held by birth and ancestry a unique position, which linked him on to the early history of his country, and gave him a rank beside which most 334 ARTHUR MACMURRO UGH KAVANAGH patents of nobility seemed to be things of yesterday. But he had something nobler than birth and lineage. He was the very soul of honour, and had a supreme contempt for everything that was base and mean ; and better still, he had a conscience enlightened and guided by Divine Truth. He was not a man to make a display of his religious feelings, but he was not a man who would ever venture to conceal them. He lived and acted in the fear and love of God, and sought to regulate his life and conduct according to the Divine will. Born to wealth, and with great capacities for enjoyment, he lived no life of selfish ease. If he had an ambition, it was to live and die at home, to be the friend and benefactor of his people, and to render his life serviceable to them and to his country. In the Imperial councils of the nation his voice was always listened to with respect and con- fidence, because of his wisdom, his prudence, and his thorough conscientiousness. And those who differed from him had even to acknowledge that, if he was a formidable opponent, he was always a fair and generous one. " What he was to our Church, both by his ability and his liberality, is known to us all. Wise in counsel, and specially able in all matters of finance, we shall miss him from our councils, and especially from the representative body of the Church, of which he was an honoured and most diligent member. Ever since our disestablishment he held a most important position upon our Boards of Patronage, and I can bear witness that to him it was no formal discharge of a mere function, but a careful and prayerful investiga- tion of each case that came before him, and an earnest desire to seek for good and suitable men to fill our vacant parishes. He viewed his office as a solemn trust committed to him by God, and he endeavoured most faithfully to discharge it. " Those who knew him in the intimacy of his private life can bear witness that he was a loving husband, a tender father, a considerate master, and a APPENDICES 335 kind and courteous friend. It was something never to be forgotten to witness how he conducted the family worship of his household ; the reverent way in which he read the Holy Scriptures ; the earnest and devout manner in which he offered up prayer and thanks- giving at the Throne of Grace. Strangers, and sometimes those of another creed who had the privilege of being present at these devout services, have acknowledged how much they were impressed by them. But, better still, the whole life and conduct of the man harmonised with these devotions. The truth was that all this useful and noble life had its roots deep in his strong and simple piety. His was the attitude of a lowly heart that had come to Christ for mercy, and a trusting heart that ever looked to Him for grace ; and so when trials and anxieties came upon him he was calm and immovable ; and when he was misjudged and ungenerously treated he exhibited a noble patience, a generous forbearance. He could well leave his character to be its own defender, and his memory will be honoured and loved when that of his defamers is forgotten, or remembered only with virtuous indignation. A standard-bearer amongst us has fallen, and the world is all the poorer for the loss of such a man. As the true type of a Christian gentleman, he has left a legacy for imitation to those who hold positions anything like his own ; and to us all he has left an example to do our duty in that state of life to which it has pleased God to call us. "It is just three years ago this very week that I consecrated a new burying-ground in his own de- mesne for the use of his family ; and vividly do I recall how, as I stood beside him on that occasion, he joined in the solemn service with uncovered head and with subdued voice, while he prayed God would 'soon accomplish the number of his elect ' and hasten his kingdom. How little did we think that he would be the first to occupy that consecrated soil ! We would have wished for the sake of his country, his Church, his family, and his friends that the evening of his day 336 ARTHUR MACMURROUGH KAVANAGH was far distant from him still. But our Heavenly Father has ordered it otherwise, and we can only say, ' Even so Father, for so it seemed good in Thy sight.' Thus Christmas morning came this year, and while we were joyfully celebrating the birth of our and his Redeemer, one of the best of wives was mourning the loss of one of the best of husbands, and his dear children were lamenting, as well they might, the removal of a beloved and loving father. " May the God of all consolation be in their midst. He alone can fill up with His Own Presence the blank that is left in their heart and home. If human sympathy can lessen grief; if the respect and love and honour felt for their departed one can give consolation, they have sources of comfort on every side. But they have better consolations than these. They know. in whom he believed ; they can feel assured that he has eternal rest ; they can look forward in ' sure and certain hope ' that they shall see him yet again in the home where death and parting can never come. ' Mark the perfect man, and behold the upright, for the end of that man is peace.' " Among numerous letters of sympathy the two following were received by Mrs. Kavanagh one from a private friend, who although differing from her husband in politics was for many years a loyal fellow- worker with him in the cause of Ireland ; the other from one of the many public bodies with which Mr. Kavanagh had been associated. " 26th December 1889. " MY DEAR MRS. KAVANAGH Your letter received this morning prepared me for the letter which came by the next post from Mrs. Meredyth. I hardly know how to write to you in your great sorrow. It is difficult to realise the loss, not only to you and all those most nearly related to him, but also to those who had the high honour of being intimately acquainted APPENDICES 337 with him ; and yet again to the country at large, and Ireland in particular. " I know that all those who like me had been thrown much with him will agree that no finer character ever lived, or one who worked for the common good with a higher ideal. " I think you will find that the remembrance and consciousness of this must surely be some comfort and consolation to you and your family. I am always, yours most truly, COUNTY KILKENNY GRAND JURY, SPRING ASSIZES 1890 VOTE OF CONDOLENCE Proposed by Hon. L. Agar Ellis, seconded by E. L. Warren, Esq. " We, the Grand Jurors of the County of Kilkenny, assembled at Spring Assizes 1890, take this, the first opportunity, of placing on record our sorrow at the severe loss the County has sustained through the death of the Right Hon. Arthur MacMurrough Kavanagh. It is with feelings of pride that we look back at having been associated with him in the business of this County, and it is with unfeigned grief we mourn our able colleague. Not only for the present do we pass this resolution, but for the purpose of holding up to those who succeed us so good an example ; and we gladly seize upon this occasion to show our full appreciation of those noble qualities which made Mr. Kavanagh one of Ireland's greatest sons. W. DE MONTMORENCY, Foreman" 1 2th March 1890. INDEX ABBEY OF ST. MULLINS, 7, 17, 262 Abercorn, Duke of, 209 Addresses, congratulatory, 193 Adjunta, Caves of, 106 Agency, Borris, 127 Agitation, belief in, 277 premium on, 236 Air-beds, 32 Albania, 158 Albanian dogs, 159 Aleghaum, 122 Aleshtan, plain of, 95 Alexandria, 1 8 Alten, copper mines of, 149 America, suppression of treason in, 237 American missionaries, 55 support of separatism, 245 " Ames-Damnees, les," 34 Animals, love of, 139 Anne Kavanagh, 5 Anti-Plan of Campaign Association, 225 Antiquities in Kourdistan, 62 Antwerp, great fire at, 168-171 Ape, large, 123 Arctic Circle, 149 Ardishei, 56 Armisty, General, no Army and navy, flogging in, 192 Arnold Forster, Mr., quoted, 250 Arrears Act, demoralising nature of, 283 Arrow, Lough, 145 Art Boy MacMorrough, 3 More MacMorrough, 2, 3 Arthur MacMurrough Kavanagh, 5 Asgill, Sir Charles, 1 5 Ashbourne's Act, Lord, 279 Ashraf, 41 Askaran, 84 Astrakhan, 31, 35 Atheist and ecclesiastic, 237 Aurungabad, 115, 120 Australia, 5, 125 Austrian branch of the Kavanaghs, 5 Avalona, providential escape at, 143 B , SIGNOR, 142 Babel, Tower of, i, 72 Babylon, 71 Bagdad, 71 Bagnalstown, 130 Baku, yellow fever at, 36, 37 Balfour, Right Hon. A. J., 297, 299 Ballot Act in Ireland, the, 246 Ballyan, Baron of, 3 Ballycopigan, 302 Ballyfin, the Cootes of, 14 Ballyragget, 131 Castle, 131 Lodge, 261 Bank of Ireland, attempt to ruin, 267 Banshee, the, 300 Barbavilla, Mrs. Smythe of, 249 Barrow, the River, 13, 1 6 Barry, Serjeant, 173 Bartholomew's Day, renewal of St., 255 Bassadore, 101 Basset, Mr., 107 Batavia, 5 Beach, Sir Michael Hicks, 186 Bear, pet, "Bessy," 141 killed in India, 125 Bedouins, 26 Berar, province of, 30, 121 Beresford, Lord Charles, 227 Bergen, 145 Bes-fel Nimrod, 72 340 INDEX Bessborough Commission, 215 ' ' Bessy, " pet bear, 1 4 1 Bethlehem, plain of, 25 Beyrout, 20 Bezitoun, inscription at, 97 "Billy," see Bookey Black ( Sea, shores of, 27 Blackstairs, 13 Blair, Mr. Stopford, no Blancheville, Sir Edmund, 4 Blanchevillestown, 4 Boathouse, 16 Boleyn, Anne, 131 Bombay, 30, 104 Bommel Fiord, 146 Book of St. Moling, 7 Bookey, Mr. William, 106 Borris agency, 127 brook, 1 6 Chapel, 13 east window in, 227 Clothing Club, 194 House, 13 refortified, 167 sieges of, 14, 15 lace, 130 village, 129 murder in, 191 Boycotting, 266 Boyton, Mr., 252 Brandon, Mount, 13 Brennan, Mr., 252 Brian Kavanagh escapes Cromwellian confiscation, 4 Mac Cahir, of Borris and Polmonty, 3 Bridge, Bunahown, 15 of Graigue, 1 7 Bright, Right Hon. John, 173 Brooks, Colonel, 104 Bruen, Anne, 28 Mary (see Conolly), 8 Colonel Henry, 5, 28 Right Hon. Henry, M.P., 5, 171, 173 Bulls, pedigree, 289 Bunahown Bridge, 15, 136 Bunder- Abbas, 101 " Bunny," 29 Burgess, Mr., 45 Burke, Mr. Thomas H., murder of, 250 Burtchaell, Mr. G. D., I Burudshird, 85 Bushire, 100 Bay of, 74 Business-man and communist, 239 Butler, Lord Arthur, 202 Lady Elizabeth, 4, 5 Lucia, 4 Colonel Richard, 4 Lady Susanna, 4 Thomas, of Kilcash, 4 Walter, Esq., of Garryricken, 4 Byron, Lord, 22 CAHERCIVEEN, 255 Cahir MacArt, an English subject, 3 Caines, the skipper, 148 Cairo, 18 Calmuc Tartars, 35 Camels in Russia, 35 Camel and tiger, adventure of, 121 Caomhanach, "the Handsome," 2 Cape, North, 145 Carey, Rev. P., 193 Carinthia, 6 Carlow County, 3, 163, 171, 193 Carlton Club, 272 Carly, 109 Casellani, Signor, 71 Caspian Sea, navigation of, 37 Castle government, 287 Castlecuffe, Queen's County, 14 Castletown, County Kildare, 8 Cathedral, Christ Church, 3 Cattle-breeding, 288 disease, 199 Celbridge, 8 Chamberlain, Right Hon. J., 293 Chapel, Borris, 13 New Ross Poorhouse, 133 Charles Kavanagh, Governor of Prague, 4 7th Hussars, 5, 20 death, 128 Charter horn of Kings of Leinster, 7 Charybdis, 158 Chickapore, 12 1 Chikelgaum, 123 Chillon, Castle of, 103 Chitaum, 122 Chonsar, 84 Christ Church Cathedral, 3 Christianity, evidences of, 213 Christiansand, 147 Christmas custom, 135 Chukun, I 08 Church in Ireland, the, 205 patronage, 206 Cincinnati, Mr. Parnell's speech at, 256 INDEX Circle, Arctic, 149 Clancarty, Richard, second Earl of, 5 Clare, Richard de, Earl of Pembroke, 2 Clerkenwell explosion, 246 Clonagoose, parish church of, 13 Clonegal, 4 Clothing Club, 194 Coalition of loyalists, 269 " Coercion," 186 Colaba Point, 104 Coleridge quoted, 16' College, Trinity, Dublin, 7 Collings, Mr. Jesse, M.P., 265 Communist and business-man, 239 "Confessor, the father," 135 Conolly, Colonel, of Castletown, 8 Fanny, 8 Mary (see Bruen), 8 Richard, 8 and Studdert, Messrs., 68 Constantinople, waters of, 27 Constituents, loyalty to, 188 Coolgreany estate, 296 Cooper, Captain, 110 Coote, Sir Charles, of Castlecuffe, 14 Cootes of Ballyfin, 14 Corfu, 129-155 Cork, Bishop of, 205 S.S. Company, attack on, 267 Coungak, 69 "County, model," 171, 201 Court, patriarchal, 135 Courtown, Earl of, 219 Cowellellyn, Baron of, 3 Crampton, Sir Philip, 9 Croke, Archbishop, 239 Cromer Head, 145 Cromwell, 4 Crown of the Kings of Leinster, 7 Crystals in Borris brook, 1 6 Cuisine on the Volga, 33 in the Persian Gulf, 100 Curraghmore, 4 DALTON, Mrs., 25 Damascus, 23 Darius, tomb of, 79 Davitt, Mr., 257 Deer-park, 16 Denison, Right Hon. J. E., 182 Denmark, 31 Derbend, 37 Derelict Land Trust, 226 Derevaragh, Lough, 145 Dermitius (Dermot) Kavanagh, 5 Desert, the, 20 Desert, the short, 26 De Vesci, Viscount (late), 207 Lord, 288 Devil's coach-horses, 86 Devoy, Mr., 252 Diary, entries in, 137, 138 Dickson, Dr., 47 Dillon, Mr. J., 251 Diocesan Endowment Fund, 206 Nominator, 212 Dizful, 89 Doctors, English, 25 Doggerajan, 115 Donegal, Colonel Conolly M.P. for, 9 Militia, 14 Donell, MacMorrough, 2 Dowlutabad, 118 Drontheim, 147 Drummond, 17 picnics at, 1 7 Dublin, Royal Society, 129 Dumbeneh, 84 EAST window in Borris Chapel, 227 Ecclesiastic and atheist, 237 Edenderry, 14 Egypt, I, 1 8 Eleanor Blancheville, 4 Election, general, 1868, 171 general, 1880, 202 general, 1885, 264 Elinor, daughter of Viscount Mount- garret, 4 Elizabeth, daughter of Hugh O'Bryne, 3 Ellis, Sir John Whitaker, 220 Ellora, Caves of, 106, 119 Emergency Committee, 219 Endowment Fund, Diocesan, 206 Engineers, Bombay, no Enzeli, 38 Escapes, providential, 19, 28, 74, 143, 171 Escort, ragged, 96 Esmonde, Sir Laurence, of Clonegal, 4 Europa Point, 156 Eva, daughter of Dermot MacMor- rough, 2 Eva, R.Y.S., 153 Cruise of the, \ 5 5 Ewald, Mr., 25 FAT-ALI SHAH, 47 Fence, a very stiff, 144 Fenian rising, 167, 246 weakening of priestly influence dur- ing, 241 342 INDEX Feniusa of Scythia, i Ferouz Mirza, 81 Fevers, 85, 90 Field, attempted murder of Mr., 250 Fiord, Bommel, 146 Drontheim, 148 Kloster, 149 Filigree card-case, the, 127 Finland, Russian, 31, 145 Fire Worshippers, 38 Fish, flying, 103 Fisher, Mr., 25 Fishing, 145 Fleming, Anne, 10 Flogging in army and navy, 192 Forbes, the Sir Charles, 101 Ford, Mr. Patrick, 252 Forestry, 1 34 Forster, Right Hon. W. E., 255, 265 Fortescue, Right Hon. Chichester, 183 Fox-hunting, ill, 144 France, Commune in, 242 Socialism in, 242 suppression of treason in, 236 Fusiliers, 1st, 1 1 1 GALLAMH, i Gap, Scollogh, 15 Garkan, 57 Garry river, 15 Garryricken, 4, 29 Gazaw, 39 Gazelles, 23 hounds, 27 George IV, 5 George, Mr., Q.C., 166 Mr. Henry, 257 Germains, St., n Germany, Emperor of, 300 Geroit, Mairgread, 131 Ghauts, ride up the, 108 Ginditz, 6 Gladstone, Right Hon. W. E., 174, 203, 264, 265, 271, 272 Gobat, Bishop, 25 Gogan, 50 Gombeen men, 248 Gookayou, 84 Goolam, 93 Goschen, Hight Hon. G. J., 271 letter to, 288 Graigue, Bridge of, 17 Greek lace, 129 Greer, Rev. Samuel, 8 Grey, Sir John, 106 Guardians, jobbery by boards of, 291 Gwherda, gazelle-hound, 27 HADJI ABBAS, 40 Gowam, 77 Mohammed, 27 Hafiz, tomb of, 77 Hairiki, 98 Haifa, 83 Hammerfest, 149 Hanza Mirza, 50 Harem, life in a, 48 Haroumabad, 85, 93, 98 river, 94 Harriet Kavanagh, Lady, 5, 18, 129, 261 Margaret Kavanagh, 5, 18, 21, 61 Harry Kavanagh, Baron, 7 Hauskirchen, 6 Head Commissioners, 216 Heatly, Captain, 106 Heber, descendants of, I Hebron, 21 Hector, Mr., 45 Heirlooms, 7 Hennessy, Mr. (now Sir) John Pope, 167 Henry II, 2 Henry Kavanagh, Count, 6 Hercules, the, 32 Heremon, descendants of, I Hilla, 72 Hillside on fire, a, 87 Hine, Mr., consul, 25 Hitteren island, 148 Holland, coast of, 1 68, 300 Holy Land, 1 8 Home Rule, 243, 271 Horeb, Mount, 20 Hornehlen, 147 Horses, love of, 143 Hughes, Mr., 121 Hungary, 6 Hurlbert, Mr. W. H., 296 Hussars, 7th, 5 loth, no "Hymn, Arthur's," 12 IBIS shooting, 19 Idrone, Chiefs of, 7 Ilex grove, the, 131 Imaumpore, 115 Intoxicating Liquors (Ireland) Bill, 189 Ionian Islands, annexation of, 162 Ireland, the Church in, 205 " Irelands, the two," 229 Irish Defence Union, 220 Land Committee, 219 INDEX 343 Irish law and custom, 2 people, characteristics of, 259 Irish World, the, 252 Irregular Horse, Poonah, 1 1 1 Ishmael, the dragoman, 21 Ispahan, 82 Israelites, 18 Italy, II "JACK," 141 his tragic end, 142 Jackal hunt, 19 Jaffa gate, 25 Jehoshaphat, valley of, 25 Jellett, Rev. Dr., 213 Jenkins, Captain, 105 Jenner, Sir William, 153 Jereed exercise, 95 Jerusalem, 25 Jobbery, 290 John Baptist Kavanagh, 6 Jones, Captain, 71 Jones, Mr., 106 Joseph II, Emperor, 5 Jugglers, Indian, 1 08 Justice of the Peace, Mr. Kavanagh as, 191 KAMISCHKIN, 35 Kandala, 109 Kappooly, 108 Karnak, 19 Kasan, 33 Kasiri-Shireen, 98 Kavanagh, Art Boy, 3 Art More, 2 Arthur MacMurrough, 8 ; birth, 8 ; education, 8 ; boyhood, 9 ; his cheerfulness, 10 ; first in every- thing, 10; "duck-fishing," n ; "ear-boring," II ; parts from his cousins, 1 1 ; at St. Germains, 1 1 ; in Rome, 12; in Dublin, 12; " Arthur's Hymn," 12 ; in Egypt, wilderness, Holy Land, 18 ; on the Nile, 19 ; tutorial work and sport, 19 ; narrow escape, 19 '> in the desert, 20 ; linguistic apti- tude, 20 ; acts as interpreter, 20 ; letter from Beyrout, 20; " Dougal M'Tavish," 21 ; purchases, 21, 22 ; delight in the East, 22 ; letter from Jerusalem, 22 ; sport and tent - life, 23, 24 ; Arab horses, 24 ; skill in shooting and riding, 26 ; speaks Arabic, 26 ; a favourite with the Bedouins, 26 ; letter from Marseilles, 26 ; eye-witness of '48 Revolution, 27 ; fondness for animals, 28 ; return from Egypt, 28 ; narrow escape at Borris, 28; Smith O'Brien's rebellion, 29 ; reconnoitres rebel camp, 29 ; second journey to the East, 30 ; travels through Den- mark and Scandinavia, 31 ; St. Petersburg, Moscow, and Nijni- Novgorod, 31 ; on the Volga, 32, 33 ; on the Caspian, 37 ; arrives in Persia, 39 ; adventure at Astrabad, 40 ; on the road to Teheran, 41 ; narrow escapes, 42 ; arrival at Teheran, 44 ; down with fever, 45 ; a miserable Christ- mas Day, 48 ; guest of Prince Malichus Mirza, 48 ; lodged in the harem, 48 ; hunts with the prince, 50 ; on Lake Urumiah, 51; starts for Urumiah, 54; a Nestorian community, 55 ; enters Kourdistan, 57 ; a Kourdish chief, 59 ; ride through snow, 63-65 ; on guard at the gateway, 67 ; rheumatism in the chest, 67 ; finds traces of Messrs. Conolly and Studdert, 68 ; meets Mr. Layard, 69 ; visits Nineveh, 70 ; arrives at Bagdad, 71 ; en route to Babylon, 7 1 ; Tower of Babel, 72; "Old Woman's Pass," 74; arrives at Shiraz, 77 ; at Ispahan, 82 ; and at Teheran, 84 ; down with fever, 85 ; hillside on fire, 87 ; mountain-stairs, 88 ; at the Russian camp, 89 ; dines with Colonel Williams, 89 ; in fever again, 90; "a hell upon earth," 91 ; Colonel Williams and he exchange cooks, 92 ; letters from home, 93 ; plain of Aleshtan, 95 ; tax-gatherers, 95, 96 ; witnesses sham fight, 97 ; Kirmanshah, 97 ; lodged in governor's palace, 97 ; parts from Colonel Williams, 98 ; takes his passage to Bagdad, 98 ; leaves Bushire, 100 ; in the Per- sian Gulf, 101 ; arrives at Bom- bay, 104 ; purchases outfit, 105 ; shooting expedition, 106 ; up the Ghauts, 1 08 ; arrives at Poonah, 109 ; thrown into prickly - pear bush, no; leaves Poonah, III ; 344 INDEX reaches Nuggur, 114; enters Nizam's dominions, 115 ; the first tiger, 116; sporting expedition from Aurungabad, I2O; second tiger, 121 ; tigress, 123 ; kills her, 123; more tiger - shooting, 125; leaves for Aurungabad, 125; left alone, 126 ; carrier of de- spatches, 126 ; serves in Poonah Survey Department, 126 ; makes a solemn resolution, 127 ; returns to Ireland, 127 ; appointed under- agent at Borris, 127 ; succeeds to family estates, 128 ; marriage, 129 ; improves Borris village, 129 ; receives medal of Royal Dublin Society, 129 ; rebuilds Borris in part, 130 ; assumes management of branch line to Borris, 1 30 ; improves Ballyragget village, 130 ; elected Guardian of New Ross Poorhouse, 131 ; Roman Catholic chapel in Poor- house, 133 ; establishes saw-mill at Borris, 134; his daily life at home, 134-137 ; devotion to his tenantry, 137; sport, 139; love of animals, 139 ; and of nature, 140; "Bessy," "Jack," and " Nelson," 141, 142 ; love of horses, 143 ; providential escape at Avalona, 143 ; sells off hunters and harriers, 144 ; fishing expedi- tions to Irish lakes, 145 ; and to North Cape, 145-152; good sport, 152 ; love of the sea, 153 ; anxiety about his son, 153 ; letter to his wife, 153 ; cruise to the Mediterranean, 155-158; sport in Albania, 159; skill in photo- graphy, 161 ; bad news from Ireland, 162; returns home, 162; wishes to enter Parliament, 163 ; dissuaded, 163 ; speech at Captain Pack Beresford's nomination, 1 64 ; M.P. for County Wexford, 167; refortifies Borris House, 167 ; reconnoitres rebel movements by night, 167; revives yachting privilege, 168 ; great fire at Ant- werp, 168-171 ; M.P. for County Carlow, 171 ; maiden speech, 175-181 ; effect on the House, 182; speaks on Peace Preserva- tion Act, 183-186; defends his own constituents, 188 ; changes views on Sunday (Ireland) drinking. 189, 190; conduct as J.P., 190, 191 ; made Lord Lieutenant of County Carlow, 191 ; efficiency as magistrate, 191 ; flogging in the services, 192 ; his son comes of age, 193 ; proposes his health, 1 94 ; responds to toast of his own health, 200 ; ingratitude of his tenantiy, 201 ; defeated at general election, 202 ; letter to his wife, 202 ; Mr. Gladstone's tribute to him, 203 ; endeavours to retrieve the situation, 204 ; his readiness to be interviewed, 204 ; helps to rehabilitate the Church, 205 ; becomes member of reorganising committee, 206 ; also of General Synod and of Diocesan Synod, 206 ; elected Diocesan Nominator, 206 ; secures Endowment Fund for united diocese of Ossory, Ferns, and Leighlin, 206 ; mem- ber of representative body, 207 ; attitude on revision of Prayer- Book, 210; his liberality to the Church, 211 ; his belief in Chris- tianity, 213 ; sits on Bessborough Commission, 215 ; draws up separate report, 215 ', speaks at landlords' meeting, 216 ; censures Sub-Commissioners, 216 ; visited by tenants at midnight, 218; sug- gests Irish Land Committee, 219 ; and becomes its honorary secre- tary, 219 ; co-operates with Lord Courtown, 219 ; member of Man- sion House Committee, 220 ; and Commissioner for distribution of funds, 220 ; origin of Land Cor- poration, 222 ; interview by cor- respondent of New York World, 222 ; joins Anti-Plan of Campaign Association and Derelict Land Trust, 225, 226 ; death of his second son, 226 ; writes paper on the two Irelands, 229-260 : urged to call public meeting, 262 ; measures to check the National League, 263 ; his views on the situation, 263 ; writes paper on perils ahead, 265-269 ; his sug- gestions for future government of Ireland, 272 ; failing health, 286 ; suggestions for local government, 286 ; correspondence with Right INDEX 34S Hon. G. J. Goschen, 288 ; and with Right Hon. W. H. Smith, 293 ; his last illness, 299 ; last trip to Holland, 300 ; death on Christmas morning, 300 Kavanagh, Mrs., marriage, 129 ; im- provement of Borris, 129; Borris lace, 130; letters to, 145, 153, 1 68, 202 ; dissuades him from entering Parliament, 163 ; her health proposed by Father Carey, 194 ; establishment of Borris Clothing Club, 194 ; places east window in Borris Chapel, 227 Arthur, Lieutenant, R.N., his illness and death, 226 Brian MacCahir, of Borris and Pol- monty, 3 Brian, escapes Cromwellian confisca- tion, 4 Brian, 4 Charles, Governor of Prague, 4 Charles, 7th Hussars, 5 Dermot (Dermitius), General, 5 Donell (the "Handsome"), 2 Harriet, Lady, 5, 18, 129, 261 Harriet Margaret ("Hoddy"), 5, 18, 21, 61 Harry, Baron, 7 Henry, Count, 6 John Baptist, Baron of Ginditz, 6 Maurice, General, of Hauskirchen, 6 Morgan, Baron of Cowellellyn, 3 Morgan, of Borris and Polmonty, M.P., 3 Morgan, 4 Morgan, 4 Thomas, 4 Thomas, M.P., 5, 14, 127, 199 Thomas, 5, 18, 26, 30; illness and death, 125, 126 Walter, 5 Walter, 6 Walter, his illness, 153 ; attains his majority, 193 Kazeroum, 74 Kazvin, 46 Kearns, rebel priest, 14 Kejjufabad, 84 Kemble, Captain, 71 Kend, 46 Kerbola, 72 Kermi, 57 Kilcash, Colonel T. Butler of, 4 Kilcomney, 15 Kildare, County of, 2 Kilkenny foxhounds, 144 Killiecrankie, Pass of, 1 5 Kilmainham, 231 Kingstown, 3 1 Kinolo, 119 Kirind, 98 Kirmanshah, 92, 97 Kisliat, 37 Klaku, Bactrian chief, 80 Klerk, Mr., 149 Kloster Fiord, 149 Knight, Mr., M.P., 173 Kondipory, 1 1 1 Koomisheh, 81 Kourdish costumes, 60 dinner, 60 governor, 59 Kourdistan, 30 Kourds, description of, 57 LABOURERS' DWELLINGS ACT, 267 Lace, Borris, 130 Greek, 129 Land Act (Ireland) of 1870, 247 of 1882, 216 Corporation of Ireland, 220-225 grabbing, 266 League, 248 legislation, 128 Landlords, aggregate meeting of, 216 Lapland, Russian, 151 Lapp settlement, 151 Layard, Mr., 69 League, Land, 218, 248 National, 263-265 Leathley, Rev. Joseph Forde, 129 Leggan, 60 Le Hunte, Mr., 288 Leinster, Kings of, I, 2, 7 Mount, 13 Lenkoran, 38 " Lens man," a, 149 Lichfield, Bishop of, 206 Local government, suggestions for, 286 Lofoden Islands, 148 London, Lord Mayor of, 220 Louth, County, 129 Lucia Butler, 4 Lufra, gazelle-hound. 27 Lunee, in, 123 " Lutinis," 92 Luxor, 19 Lymington, 168 MACART, CAHIR, MACMORROUGH, 3. M'Cabe, Cardinal, tribute to, 240 346 INDEX M 'Go wan, Mr., 25 Mackenzie, 115 M'Mahon, Mr., M.P. (New Ross), 173 MacMorrough, family of, I Dermot, King of Leinster, I " M'Tavish, Dougal," 21 Magistrate, Mr. Kavanagh as, 191 Majority of Thomas Kavanagh, 30 Walter Kavanagh, 193 Mallow election, 239 Malta, 155 Mansion House Committee, 220 Maria Theresa, "Empress-King," 5 Marseillaise hymn, 27 Marseilles, 18, 26 Maun, 124 Maurice Kavanagh, 6 May-fly, rising of, 145 Mayo, late Earl of, 255 Mazanderan, province of, 54 Mehemet Ali, his prayer-carpet, 21 Meshed, surrender of, 77 Meuntaz, 98 Middleton, Colonel, C.B., R.A., 5 Milesius, I Milner, Mr., 288 Mirza Jaffa Khan, 88 Malichus, Prince, 47 "Model County," 171, 2OI Moling, book of St., 7 Monarchies, five Irish, I Mongeese, no Monghea, 87 Monkish legends, 25 More, Art, see MacMorrough Morgan Kavanagh, Baron of Cowell ellyn, 3 Kavanagh, M.P., of Borris and Pol monty, 3, 4 Kavanagh, 4 Kavanagh, 4 Morley, Right. Hon. John, 173, 257 265 Morrough, King of Leinster, I Morton, Lord, 26 Rev. Ralph, 22 Moscow, 31 Mosquitoes, 149 Mosul, 69 Mott, Mr., 130 Mountgarret, Viscount, 4 Mount Horeb, 20 Leinster, 13 'Sinai, 20 Mountjoy Square, No. 1 , 1 29 Mullins, St., Abbey of, 3, 7, 17, 262 urchadh, King of Leinster, I urder at Borris, 191 luscat, 103 Musgrave, Sir Richard, 14 AGOTNA, IO9 a-nGall (of the Strangers), 2 Naples, 155, 158 'apoleon, 236 farghileh, 24 National League, the, 263 Press, the, 259 Schools, 267 School teaching, 235 Mature, love of, 140 sfaval review, 300 l^avy, flogging in the, 192 SJazar-el-Khan, 86 Nelson," 142 Iestorians, 55 w Ross, 1 6 Poorhouse, 132 Poorhouse Roman Catholic Chapel, 133 New York World, the, 222 New Zealand, Bishop of, 206 Nicholayson, Mr., 25 Nijni-Novgorod, fair of, 31 Nile, the, 18 Nimrod, bridge of, 70 Ninety-eight, 7, 14 Nitocris, the S.S., 71 Nizam's dominions, the, 115 Irregular Horse, the, 1 1 5 "Nolan, Miss," 136 Nominators, Boards of, 206 North, the, 243 North Cape, 145 Norway, 31 Nuggur, 1 06 Nulty, Bishop, 239 OAK PARK, 5, 8, 28 -tree, the old, 134, 14 O'Brien, Right Rev. Dr., 206 Smith, 29 Mr. W., M.P., 257 O'Bryne, Hugh, 3 Obstruction in Parliament, 246 Ofen, 6 Ogilby, Colonel, 106 O'Grady, The, 296 estate, the, 296 " Old Woman's Pass," 74 INDEX 347 Ormonde, Walter, eleventh Earl of, 4 the " great Duke "of, 4 John, seventeenth Earl of, 4, 5 Dowager Marchioness of, 29 Ormuz, Island of, loi Orr, Dr., 116 the Messrs., 116 Osborne, Sir Daniel Toler, 129 Lady Harriet, 129 Ossory, Bishop of, 227, 228 PALE, the, 3 Palermo, 158 Pan well, 108 Paris, II Parliament, Imperial, thinks of enter- ing, 163 enters, as M. P. for County Wexford, 167 of 1880, 203 Irish, 5 Parnell, Mr. C. S., M.P., 203 his "items," 203 Party government, weakness of, 268 Pass of Killiecrankie, 1 5 " Pass, Old Woman's," 74 Pasvig River, 145 Peace Preservation Act (Right Hon. C. Fortescue's), 183 (Sir M. Hicks Beach's), 186 Pearls in Borris brook, 16 Peasant-proprietors, 259 Peepre, 121 Pekin, legation at, 9 Pembroke, Richard de Clare, Earl of, 2 Percy, Sir E., 104 Perkins, Dr., 55 Persepolis, ruins of, 78 Persia, Northern, 30 Persia, 74 Persian dead, 72 Persian Gulf, 30, 100 storm in, 102 Petersburg, St., 31 Petra, 21 Petty Sessions, prosecutions at, 264 Phrenix Park murders, 249 Photography, skill in, 161 Picnics at Drummond, 17 Pilltown, County Waterford, 4 " Plait a Dieu," 93 Plan of Campaign, 225 test cases of, 296 Poaching case, 191 Poer, John, Lord le, of Curraghmore, 4 Polmonty, 3 Poonah, 109 Survey Department, 126 Poor Law (Ireland) Amendment Bill, 173 Porter, Commodore, 71 Posnett, Dr., 257 Prague, Charles Kavanagh Governor of, 4 Prayer-Book, revision of, 207 Prayers, family, 134 Prices, depression of, 282 Prickly-pear bush, thrown into a, I IO " Prince," 12, 26 Progress and Poverty, Mr. Henry George's, 257 Promised Land, 20 Property Defence Association, 219 Prosecutions at Petty Sessions, futility of, 264 Purchase Acts, efficacy of, 272-285 QUEEN, the, toast of, 194 Quoranta, Santa, 1 60 RAILWAY to Borris, 130 Wicklow and Wexford, 130 Great Southern and Western, 1 30 Ras-el-Hadd, 103 Rassam, Mr., 69 Rat, encounter with, 1 08 Rebellion of '98, 14 of 1641, 14 Reid, Mr., 45 Relics, family, 7 Relief works, 290 Reshd, 38 Residence, Royal, in Ireland, 287 Revision of the Prayer-Book, 207 Rhoda, Island of, 26 Ribbon Society, the, 253 Richard II, 2 Richard II revisits Ireland, 3 Roandoze, 67 Rock, the, 157 Rohitsch, 7 Roland, Mr. and Mrs., 69 Romaine, Mr., 104 Rome, stay in, 12 Rome, Church of, 239, 244 opposed to British connection, 241 " Roo-of" ! 116 Rooke, Rev. G. W., 191 Rosa, 119 Royal residence in Ireland, 287 R.Y.S. Eva, 153 Water Lily, 220, 300 348 INDEX Rushampore, 115 Russell, Mr. Edward A., 173 Russia, 30 Russian camp, 89 Ryan, History -of Carloiv, 3, 14 SADI, tomb of, 77 Salisbury, Marquis of, 263 Salmon-fishing, 16, 145 Samara, 34 Sandford, 25 Sandwith, Dr., 69 Santa Quoranta, 160 Saratov, 34 Sardarud, 49 Sari, 42 Saw-mill at Borris, 134 Scandinavia, 30 Schaffgotsch, Count, 7 Scoderere, 93 Scollogh Gap, 15 Scorpions, 86 Scott, Sir Walter, quoted, 16 Scylla and Chary bdis, 158 Scythia, I Sea, love of the, 153 Secretaries for Ireland, 287 Seed-rate Act, 290 Selwyn, Bishop, 206 Separation, true meaning of "Home Rule," 243 "Sept and Nation," the, 193 Seroor, 1 1 1 Serpent-charmers, 108 Service, evening, 137 Sexton, Mr. T., M.P., 252 Shaipoor, ruins of, 74 Sheil, Colonel, 47 Sheridan, Mr., 252 Sheriff's sales, 221 Sheshuan, 49 Shiraz, 77 Shuster desert, 91 Sicilies, kingdom of The Two, 158 Sieges of Borris House, 14 Sierra Nevada, 158 Simbirsk, 33 Sinai, Mount, 20 " Sir John Grey," 108 " Sir Roger," 107 Skibbereen Eagle, the, 266 Smith, Right Hon. W. H., 293 Smyrna, 27 Smythe, murder of Mrs. , 249 Snakes, 91 Snow, adventure in the, 63-66 Society, Royal Agricultural, 291 Society, Royal Dublin, 129, 291 Soda-water springs, 63 Sorroe Sund, 149 Southampton, 220 Spain, I Speaker's note to Mr. Kavanagh, the, 182 Speech, Father Carey's, 194 Mr. Sweetman's, J.P., 199 Speeches, Mr. Kavanagh's, 164, 175, 184, 1 86, 189, 194, 200, 217 Spencer, Earl, 232 Spiders, 86 Spithead, naval review off, 300 Sport, 139 Star, newspaper, 173 State-assisted Purchase, 281 Stephens, Mr., 48 St. Germains, n Moling, book of, 7 Mullins, Abbey of, 3, 7, 17, 262 Stock, deterioration of, 289 Stocking, Mr., 56 Strongbow, 2 Strozzi Villa, 12 Studdert, Captain, no and Conolly, Messrs., 68 Mr., 55 Styria, 6 Sub-Commissioners, 216 Sulduz, plain of, 57 Sultania, 47 Sunday afternoons at Borris, 136 Suter, Mr. Frank, 117 Sweden, 31 Sweetman, Mr., J.P., 132, 166, 191, 199 Synan, Mr., M.P., 173 TABRIZ, 45, 49 Takht-el-Yamsheed, 78 Taki Boustan, 97 Tannah, 107, 1 08 Tapp, Major, 1 1 1 Tarki, 37 Tax-gatherers, Persian, 95, 96 Teaching in National Schools, 235 Teheran, 38, 41, 44, 84 Temples, Hindoo, 115, 118 Tenant-right, 162, 247 Tenantry, devotion to, 137 ingratitude of his, 201 Tennyson quoted, 16 Termonfeckin, 129 Terrorism of Land League, 218 INDEX 349 Terrorism of National League, 266 Thebes, ruins of, 19 Theresa, Maria, 5 Thomas Kavanagh of Borris, Esq. , 4 M.P., 5, 14, 127, 199 5, 30, 126 Thompson, Mr., 45 Tiflis, 36, 47, 48 Tigers, 116, 121, 123-125 Tigris river, 30, 70 Times, The, 250 Toka, 115 Tombak, 24 Toulouse, 7 Treason taught in National Schools, 235 Trench, Lady Harriet Margaret le Poer, 5 Lady Louisa le Poer, 129 Trinity College, Dublin, 7 Provost of, 213 Trebizond, 27 Trevelyan, Mr. (now Sir), G. O., 229, 250 Trout-fishing, 1 6, 145 Tucker, Mr., 114 Tufa, 113 Turcomans, 40 Twemlow, Brigadier, 116 Tzaritzin, 35 UDSIRE light, 145 Unionist party, suggestion of a, 269 United Ireland newspaper, 252, 266 Urumiah, island of, 51 lake of, 5 1 town of, 54 VASJ BULAK, 58 Villa Strozzi, 12 Volga river, 30, 35 WALSH, THOMAS, Esq., of Pilltown, 4 Walter Kavanagh, 5 6 153, 193 "Wards," 135 Water Lily, R.Y.S., 220, 300 Wells, Captain, no Wexford, 15, 130, 167 tenantry, 193 Whales, 145, 149 Wilderness, the, 20 William IV, 5 William, his servant, 45 Williams, Colonel (afterwards of Kars), 89,98 Wright, Dr., 55 Wood, Rev. David, 18, 126 World, Irish, 252 World, the New York, 222 YACHTING privilege, 168 Yacht race, description of, 156 Yeoman-proprietors, 277 ZAB river, 69 THE END Printed by R. & R. CLARK, Edinburgh. 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