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TITLE An historical and descriptive account of the coast of Sussex AUTHOR Parry, John Docwra, 1833? DATE 1833 *\ l?N *• S^7 PJ2 TO WILLIAM IV., KING, AMD ADELAIDE, QUEEN OP THK THIS VOLUME 18 IK8CKIBBD, WITH THB HIGHEST BB8PBCT AND DBPBKBNCB, THE AUTHOR. January^ 1833, PREFACE. This volume was begun, completed, and published within the space of six months, although it had been meditated for about the same number of preceding ones, which, with one or two brief previous exceptions, forms the whole of the author's acquaintance with the County of Sussex. It has been conducted under every possible dis- couragement and want of support ; the particulars, however, it will be superfluous and unavailing to de- tail ; it will be suflBcient to describe it negatively, and say that every instance of courteousness which the au- thor has met with, either from those in the higher or middle ranks, is carefully acknowledged and acted upon in the following pages. Such disappointment was almost sufficient to have induced an abandonment of the work, but that he had the consciousness of its not being merited : he considered, also, that it might live to see an improvement of spirit, that it would come under the notice of an extensive cycle of Visitors, embracing A 2 IV PREFACE. many individuals of liberal minds, and, though last mentioned, first in importance, that it had received the honour of the sanction of their Majesties. After their distinguished names, then, he has only to acknowledge the following obligations : — ^to their Royal Highnesses the Princess Augusta and the Duchess of Gloucester j the gallant and courteous Earl of Munster, famous " both with sword and pen,** whose appointment to the custody of a still more re- nowned palace than that of Brighton was witnessed with sincere pleasure ; Sir Herbert Taylor, to whose patient civility he owes a debt of much gratitude ; the Dukes of Richmond (of whose courtesy he cannot say too much), Devonshire, and Bedford, and the Bishop of Chichester. It is, perhaps, scarcely necessary to inform the reader, that this volume has been executed in the most unshrinking style of expense, and has actually cost a considerable sum ; the only portion of which he re- grets, is that which was applied to making its design extensively known, as it was entirely sacrificed. Pub- lication is always a dangerous thing in these times/ but, perhaps, when the Rubicon is passed, it may be, upon the whole, as politic to apply the advice of Polonius —^—— Being in. Bear it that the opposer may beware thee. PREFACE. ▼ The author has to express his sense of the ability and conscientious exertions of the artists employed in its embellishments, as well as the skill and patience of the excellent printers. The sole failure was the vignette of the Pavilion, which he sincerely regretted, ^specially as it was absolutely too late to cancel or improve it. Every place here described has been carefully visited, at an expense, arising from local circumstances, by no means inconsiderable. The very few exceptions are either specifically alluded to, or indicated by the follow-, ing mark %♦, . .-> It is not easy in practice, however it be recommended in theory, to speak with perfect impartiality and good temper, where that courtesy is not obtained which a person feels he has a right to claim. The author can respectfully, but boldly, assert, that he has not merely earnestly attempted this, but knows that he has suc- ceeded ; and verily believes that he could not have spoken more impartially, if he had been upon oath. May he venture, on this score, to expect, if the reader concurs with him, a share of his approbation ? He has fortunately met with some facilities foi: obtaining valuable information j especially the almost unequalled MSS. collections of Sir William Burrell, deposited in the British Museum. He has also obtained VI PREFACE. • a great number, though not all, of the works he desired to see, from the University Library of Cambridge^ There is one MS. in this volume of very high im- portance to the curious in the general History of England. On examining and collating the works dready published, relating to the Topography of Sussex, the following appeared to be the only important standard ones: — " Dallaway*s History of the City and Rape of Chichester," 4to. 5l. 5s.y very scarce ; ** Ditto of the Rape of Arundel, republished by Cartwri^t,** 51, 5s. ; ** Cartwright*s History of the Rape of Braraber," 5l. 5s. ; ** Horsefield's History of Lewes and its Vicinity," 4/. 4*. ; " Moss's History of Hastings," These are not only very expensive publications, but* with scanty exceptions, leave the whole of the eastern, and by far the more interesting half of the county undescribed. The following places, which have been principally enlarged upon in this volume, were almost untrodden ground : — Newhaven, Seaford, £ast-» BOURNE, Pevensey, St. Leonard's, Winchelsea, Rye, Battle, and Hurstmonceux. Whilst, for the very same reasons, the account of the western division has been rendered very concise, with the exception of Worthing and Goodwood j the former from its in* PBEFACE. Yll creased interest, and the latter from real respect for the noble possessor. The extent and responsibility of this undertaking, compared with the limited time in which it was desirable it should be produced, were found so unex- pectedly weighty, that the spirit and ability, and, latterly, the health of the author nearly sunk beneath it. Although it is published by the highly respectable booksellers at Brighton, with perfect mutual good understanding, he alone is responsible for any senti- ments it may contain. Whilst the materials were collected with industry, a considerable part of the volume was written with the greatest haste; he is well aware it cannot stand the test of calligraphy, perhaps in some instances scarcely of orthography. Such as it is, however, it is now before the world, and they must deal with it and its author as they please. For his own part, he can only say, that he takes his leave of them with all charitable and good wishes. London, January, 183S. 'Bnttxtti at SbtattottCTS* ^aU. CONTENTS. Page BRIGHTON. EOSTOBT. Early Accounts and Etymology . • • • 1 Doomsday Sorvey . . . • .10 Nonal Inqoisition . .' ■' . .18 Curious Map, 1545 . . . . . 83 CoL Gunter 8 MSS. Account of the escape of Charles IL . «9 General Particulars of Sussex . . . .48 Brighton ; Eighteenth century . . . .54 Newspaper Extracte from 1761 to 1810 . . 61 to 94 Nineteenth century . . ... 95 DESCRIPTION. General Appearance : Nodier : Climate, &c. &c. . .97 Churches ..... lOS Town Han . . . • . Ill Royal Pavilion . . . 114 to 129 Steyne, Zoological Gardens, Park, Chalybeate, Chain Pier 130 to 140 Marine Parade, Western Esplanades . . 139 to 144 Libraries, Baths, &c. &c . . . 145 to 148 Fisheries . . . . 148 to 153 Theatre, Assembly Rooms, &c. . . .153 Schools and Charities . . . . 156 to 163 Fancy Fairs ..... 164 Markets, Barracks, Oriental Gardens, Scientific Institution 166 to 180 Professional Persons . . . . 171 to 175 Pleasure BoiUs . . . . .175 Hove, Preston, Patcham, and Poynings . . . 176 to 181 EASTERN COAST. BRIGHTON TO HASTINGS. Rottingdean . . . . 181 Newhaven, History, with MSS. and Newspaper Extract* ; Description ..... 182 to 189 Seaford, History with Extracto . . . . .189 Description ..... 189 to 194 CONTENTS. Page Eastbourne, Site of Anderida . . • 194 to 198 History, with MSS. . . • . 198 to 202 Newspaper Extracts . . . . 202 to 205 Description ..... 206to209 Beacby Head . . . . . .209 Naval Engagement, 1690 . • . .412 Martello Towers ...... 214 Pevensey ... ... 216 Westham ....... 217 Bexhin . . . . . .918 Hastings .... . • • 219 History . . . . 219 to 224 Description— Miscellaneoas . . . 225 to 237 St. Leonard's . . . . 23rto241 HASTINGS TO HURSTMONCEAUX AND PEVENSEY. Hurstmonceaux.— Bishop Littleton's Account; Family of Dacre and Vaux ; Fiennes .... 242 to 246 MSS. Survey, time of Elizabeth; Grose; Horace Walpole 246 to 250 Description .... 250 to 254 Pevensey; Description ..... 254 History, with numerous MSS- ; Surveys ; Customs . 256 to 270 HASTINGS TO WINCHELSEA AND RYE. FairlightHill . . .... 270 Icklesham . ' . . . . . 272 Winchelsea; History; MSS.; Jeake; Pennant; Cus- toms, &C. . . . . 273 to 281 Description ..... 283 Rye —History ; Ancient Authors ; Petitions; Costomal; Lansdowne MSS. ; Jeake . . . 285 to 297 Description ...... S97 CINQUE PORTS. History; Ports' Doomsday Book; Customs; Lord War- den ; Ships; Coronation Services; Sir Walter Raleigb; Hiittorical Services . . . . 300 to 308 HASTINGS TO BATTLE, ASHBURNHAM, LEWES. AND BRIGHTON. Battle Abbey, Town and Church; History and De- scription ..... 309 to 320 Ashburnham ...... 320 Ilailiiham, Laughton, Ringroer . . . 322 to 325 COKTENTS. XI Page Lewes.— History, Mutuantonis, Roman Courts andWays 325 to 327 Newspaper Extracts .... 327 Description : MisceDaneons .... 327 to 335 Falmer and Stanmer . ... 335 MICHAEL DRAYTON'S ACCOUNT OF SUSSEX COAST, POiFOi^/OJV, WITH NOTES, 1612 . . 337 to 340 WESTERN COAST. BRIGHTON TO CHICHESTER. Portslade, Kingston, Southwick .... 340 New Shoreham, History, Description, Imports, &c. . 340 to 346 OldSiordiam .... . . 346 Bramber ...... . 347 Steyning . . . . . . 348 Lancing and Sompting ..... 349 WORTHING . . ... 351 Newspaper Extracts ..... 353 to 356 Description : Miscellaneous . . . . 356 to 359 Broadwater . . . . . . 359 Offingttm ..... 361 Cissbury; Roman Pavement ..... 363 Tarring . . . . . . 364 Salvington, Sdden ..... 366 Little-Hampton ..... 370 Felpham ..... . . 372 Bognor . . . . . . 373 ARUNDEL . . . . . .375 General Appearance: History of Castle and Town: Descriptkn; Church ; Castle : Norfolk Family ; Arundel MarUes . 378 to 389 CHICHESTER: History; Cog^ttAnw; Si^e,&c. . . 390 Description ; Cathedral, &c. &c &c . . 393 to 403 West Dean 4^3 Halnaker and Boxgrove • . . . . 404 GOODWOOD . ~ . . 406 Interior . ...... 407 P">''*«- 400 Richmond Family ..... 423 TUNBRIDGE- WELLS '. . . . ^g. ENGRAVING& MAP, WITH VIGNETTES, . . To fkce engnTed Title Page: BRIGHTON, EAST, . . . . . .67 ROYAL PA\1LION-NEW ENTRANCE . . .129 BRIGHTON, WEST, . . . . . .141 HURSTMONCEADX CASTLE . . . .251 FAIRLIGHT HILL, AND HASTINGS, . . .871 GOODWOOD . 407 **« There are m few typognpliical errora in diis volume, but they wiD be easfly diacemiUe by the Beadcr. 5iF)i0tortcal anil i3e$(cripttl)e ACCOUNT OF THE COAST OF SUSSEX, BRIGHTON ANCIENT HISTORY. Very little can be said, with any positive certainty, to be known of the history of Brighton until about a coituiy before the Norman conquest. Now that it has attained a degree of consequence, in size and population, of a most unprecedentedly rapid increase, the inquirers into its origin are willing to per- suade themselves and others of its always ha\ang possessed some claims to notice. On the same principle, we suppose, as actuates the admirers of a great man, risen from obscurity, who would, if possible, make out his claim to some quartering, ten Umes removed, to be sought out in the archives of the Heralds* College. But, as it our purpose, in every instance, to speak impartially, without fear or favour, we will simply put the reader in possession of such actual facts as we have been enabled to discover, and add little more : — we may possibly amuse him with a few theories, hke gleams of Romance scio- tilladng through the dull and murky atmosphere of a common- place generaUon, but we shall give to them no further weight than we humbly conceive them to merit. We shall not, therefore, go back to " Brute or King Lud," or seriously disprove the nonsensical tale of Julius Caesar having landed at Brighton. Nor shall we occupy ourselves with the Druids, some of whose altars, or sacred stones, have been £ COAST OF SUSSEX. supposed to be found on the hills above Brighton. We know Httle of these gentry, though that is nearly as much as any one else does with positive accuracy, and we have quite as little liking for them. Had a Boadicea been connected with this vicinity, we should perhaps have been tempted to pause for an instant over the fate of a not uninteresting British heroine *. • The conclHsion of a Cambridge prize poem — subject '* Soadtcea," by W. Whewell, 1814, has alwajrs appeared to us very beautifiiL " Yes, Roman .' proudly shake thy crested brow, 'Tis thine to conquer, thine to triumph now; For thee, lo ! Victory, lifts her gory hand, And calls the fiends of Terror on the land. And ilaps, as tiptoe on thy helm she springs Dipping with British blood her eagle wings. " Yet think not, think not, long to thee tis giren To laugh at justice and to mock at Heaven ; Soon shall thy head, with blood-stain'd laurels crown'd. Stoop, at the feet of Vengeance, to the ground. I see, amid the gloom of future days. Thy turrets totter and thy temples blaze ; I see upon thy shrinking Latium hurl'd The countless millions of the northern world ; I see, like vultures gathering to their prey. The shades of states that fell beneath thy swsy ; They leave their fallen palaces and fanes. Their grass-grown streets, and niin-scatter'd plains. Where lonely long they viewless loved to dweU, A nd mourn the scenes that once they loved so wdJ ; Triumphant, lo ! on all the winds they come. And clap the exulting hand o'er fallen Rome, ' And hovering o'er thy domes that blazing glow. Their waving pennons fan the flame below ; They view rejoiced the conflagration's gleams Shoot their long glare o'er Tiber's reddening streaina ; And snuif the carnage- tainted smokes that rise. An incense sweet, a gratefnl sacrifice. " Sad Tiber's banks with broken columns spread ; Fall'n every fane that rear'd to heav'n its head ! Poor heap of ashes ! Grandeur's mouldering tomb ? Art thou the place was once Eternal Rome? " Yes, Roman ! snatch thy triumph whilst thou may. Weak is thy rage, and brief thy bttle day : Vanished and past the momentary storm, Albion ! my Albion, brighter shows her form. Far o'er the rolling years of gloom I spy iler ouk-crown'd forehead lifted to the sky. BRIOHTO}}. d Those, however, who wish to see further conjectures re- specting the Druids, may find them in the small volume pub- lished by Dr. Relhan. This learned antiquary has also been willing to believe that Brighton was actually a Roman station, but has not succeeded in obtaining consent to his theory, as his arguments merely prove that it would have been an eligible locality for one, and are not borne out by external testimony. It has been observed by others, that if Brighton possessed any Roman influence, it must have been derived from the closely-adjoining settlement of Aldrington, or Partus Adurni*, " The Prapositus of the Exploratores, whose office was to discover the state and motions of the enemy, and who was certainly in this part of Sussex, could be nowhere more advantageously placed than in the elevated situations of the strong camps at Hollingsbury and \Vhite-Hawke, com- manding a most extensive view of the whole coast from Beachy-Head to Above the low-hung mists unclouded seen. Amid the wreck of nations still serene ; She bursts the chains, when hands like thine would bind The groaning world, and lord it o'er mankind. Amid yon glittering flood of liquid light Float regal forms before my dazzled sight ; Like stars along the milky zone that blaze Their scepter'd hands and gold-bound fronts they raise. IMy sons ! — my daughters ! — faint, alas ! and dim. Before these fading eyes your glories swim, Mix'd with the mists of death — 'Tis yours to throw Your radiance round, while happier ages flow; I smile at storms of earthly woe, and rise. Shades of my Sires ! to your serener skies." • Did the reader ever hear the tale of " Caesar's Stile ?"— that of Agricola's Long Ladle, he may probably have read in the " Antiquary." Dr. Stskely, or some other antiquarian, was travelling through England, when he heard, that on a certain hill there was a stile called « Cesar's Stile." " Ay," said the doctor, " such a road, mentioned in Antoninus, passed new here; and the traditional name of this stile confirms the probability of a Roman camp on this spot." Whilst he was surveying the prospect, a peasant came up, whom the doctor addressed:—" They call this Cesar's Stile, my friend, do they not?" " Ees, zur," said the man, " they calls it so a'rter poor old Bob Catar, the carpenter (rest his soul !) ; I holped him to make it, when I was a boy." A Brighton Guide, after conjecturing that this place " was in some repute in the time of the Romans," says, — " In fact, there is every reason to think Brighton was a town or village long antecedent to the coming of the Romans, and that it owed its rise to the Saxons." •' O Pii, homines, et columns!" here is a new historical theory of the invasions of Britain ! 4 COAST OP SUSSEX. the Isle of Wight The form of this town is almost a perfect eqoue; the streets are built at right angles to each other, and its situation is to the soutb- east, the favourite one among the Romans. To these may be added, that an urn has been some time ago dug up in this neighbourhood, containing a tliousand silver denarii marked from Antoninus Pius to PhiUp, daring which tract of time Britain was probably a Roman province. And, lastly, the vestiges of a true Roman via running from Shoreham towards Lewes, at a small distance above this town, have been lately discovered by an in- genious gentleman truly conversant in matters of this nature. " The light sometimes obtained in these dark matters firom a sinulitnde of sounds in the ancient and modem names of places, is not to be had in assisting the present conjecture. Its ancient one, as far as I can leam, is no way discoverable: and its modem one may be owing either to this town's belonging formerly to, or being countenanced in a particular manner by, a Bishop Brighthelm, who, during the former government of the idand, lived in this neighbourhood : or perhaps may be deduced from the ships of this town having their helms better ornamented than those of their nei^- bouring ones*." — Dr. Relhan. The following observations, on Roman camps and on the etymology of Brighton, are extracted from the BurreU MSS.'. GAHPS. " There are three Roman castra, lying in a line over-thwart the Downs from Brighthelmstone to Ditchelling, from south to north. The first, a • This, for an intrinsically learned man, as we fully know Dr. Relhan to have been, is certainly the most ludicrously absurd vagary that was ever in- dulged in. It would be very amusing to go round the coast etyniit<^eIliDg Castle, containing between twelve and fourteen acres, b the highest point of the Downs thereabouts, and commands part of the sea-coast and all the northern edge of the Downs, with the wild underneath it. These are not above three or four miles distant from each other, and form an easy military line of communication with each other, so that nothing of con- sequence could escape their power when well manned with Roman forces, and a Roman navy attendant, if occasion for necessaries. These seem the work of Vespasian, who reduced the Regni, the Belgs, and the Isle of Wight, whilst he commanded the second l^on here under Claudius, and his general Aulus Plautius. " There are two other Roman camps of considerable magnitude in the parish of Tetscomb, near Newhaven, whither, it is probably Vepasian had driven the Regni, as the estuary and final boundary of the district of that tribe, who held the space between Shoreham and Lewes rivers. Here pro- bably they made their last stand, and then submitted. The whde margin of this estuary, from Newliaven to Lewes, seems to have been very populous, and had many towns and vills. The hundred is called Hdmestren in Domesday, or Homestren. Treu is the British word for towns; holme is of Saxon original, and means an isle or fenny place, and this derivation agrees with the situation of the vills along the margin of this estuary. It was usual for the Saxons to compound their names half British and half Saxon, and to put prepositions and adjectives to the names of places before named by the Britons. The pass over this estuary must have been at Lewes, where it was narrowest, by the close approach of the oppodte Downs, so as just to leave a narrow pass for the river and land floods ; above and below it was impassable Thus, the Romans must of necessity be well acquainted with this pass over the estuary here, or they could never get from Partus Adurni, or Shoreham Harbour, to Anderida, or Easthovmj unless by sea, which would not answer to the necessity of their military maiches and convoys from station to station, to keep the Britons tmder in casc^ of rebellions and insnnectioDs. " Various are the opinions touching the etynudogy of this town ; if of British denomination, hrit, Lritt, briz, signify divided or separated, as in former ages it most probably was, by a mere flowing along the bottom from Stunemere and Falemere, into the sea, at this town, by the side of the Stane. If of Saxon etymon, the word beorht, briht, berht, and byrki, signifying bright; and henl a pharos, or watdi-tower, also angnhis, a comer or point of a wedge; and hall; and healme, the genitive of which word is healmes; may all enter their claim as component parts of the name. Camden, in his Latin edition, 1 607, says, our Saxon ancestors called it Brighthealmestim, but the mistake of a Saxon ji for a p is easily made in printing or reading it ; yet if Camden be right, then Brighthealmestun, taking heal to be a pharos, is " the sea-town by the bright at burning •watch-tower," to give directions to sailors by night. If heal is to be e COAST OF SUSSEX. rendered " angulus," a wedge, point, or comer, then Dr. Tabw {PhUos.' Trans. No. 366) explains the meaning. "That you may more clearly understand the ancient state of this country, look into the best map; at the west end you will find AVest Harting and Stanstead, distant from each other six or seven miles. Imagine a straight line to be drawn from Harting to Bourne, near Pevensey, and another from a point a httle south of Stan- stead to Brighthelmston ; what lies north of these lines is the weald or low- lands, formerly the St/ha Anderida; that which is oomprehoided betweea these lines, bounded by the sea, from Brighthelmston, is Bourne and the Downs ; the part south of these lines is a flat champaign ground, ending like a wedge at Brighthelmston." Here the flat shore ends in a prant at the stane, instantly rises to bold ground next the sea, and in this sensa amounts to the " bright sea town," at a point or comer of the flat shore. If by heal is meant a hall, we find, by Domesday, it had a hall, and mi^it from thence give name to the town. If healme be the origin of hawme 01* thatch, then healme-e» is the genitive case, whidi makes it the fati^U thatched town. Again, Brighihelme was no unusual name amongst the Anglo-Saxons, and the town might have had a Saxon owner of that name, whence it might be so called, which, on mature consideration, I conceive to be the true etymology, as Domesday expresses it to be an allodial tenure^ and that the Saxon thane who had his hall here gave it his own name." — J. Elliot.— BurrcU MSS. It is doubtful who the Brighthelm was, from whom this place derived its appellation, as there are three individuals of that name who have some claim to the distinction. One a bishop of Fontenoy in France, canonised about the middle of the tenth century, whose claim is favoured by Skinner, but op- posed by iVIr. Lee, on the ground that the church would have been dedicated to him, whereas its patron saint was St. Nicholas prior to the Norman Conquest ; the second is thus desig;nated m the Barren MSS.;— " A. D. 958. — Elfin, archbishop of Canterbury, dyeing on his way to Rome, Brighthelm, bishop of Welles, was translated to the archbishoprick; he was a pious, good man. Though a friend to the monks, would not join in violent measures to establish them upon the ruins of the secular clergy; being therefore charged with the want of a proper spirit, he was ejected, and Dunstan put in possession of the church of Canterbary.** A third is thus alluded to in the " Family Topographer," 1832:— " 693, Brightelm was slain on the down immediately above Biig^tdm- stone, to which place he gave name." From what chronicle or authority the information is derived, we arc left to guess. On consulting Ingram's Saxon chronicle at BRItitiTOM. 7 that year, we find that he was also called Drythelm, and that the original has only the following allusion, simply implying that he died : — * An>> Bpirhelm J^aer op Ifpc jela'&." We are referred, however, in a note by the editor, for some additional particulars to Bede,or Matthew of Westminster; and in the latter, we find that he was a father of a family (pater- familias) in Northumberland, and afterwards took the tonsure in the monasto-y of Mailros. (Melrose ? not founded then, we believe.) It seems, therefore, very unlikely that he should have any connexion with Brighthelmstone, especially as he has another alias in the margin of the chronicle, viz., Dritfteline, The interest of his story detained our attention ; but it is too long, and otherwise unsuitable for insertion. He is said to have had a remarkable vision during a trance, when he was supposed to be dead, in consequence of which he adopted the monastic life, having first assembled his family, and divided his fortune into three parts ; one of which he gave to his wife, one to his children, and one to the poor. His vision, which related to future states of beatitude and purgatorial punishments, though mixed up with superstitious details, is really beautifully related, in a pure, though flowery Latin style ; in some parts strongly resembling that of the " Somnium Scipionis," and scarcely in- ferior to iL As Brightelm is, however, said to have been by no means an uncommon name amongst the Saxons, there may be other claimants of great probability ; but to determine the exact in- dividual seems, at the present time, impossible. We may take occasion to speak of Alfred, of his connexion with Sussex, and of other particulars of Anglo-Saxon rule hereafter; but we return now to the authentically recorded history of Brighthelmstone, which, at the conclusion of the tenth century, we find to have belonged to Wulnoth, father of God- win, who was appointed by Ethelred, the King, captain of the Sussex quota of ships towards the famous armament of a.d. 1009, to oppose Canute. On this occasion every proprietor of 310 hides (about 31,000 acres) was required to provide one S COAST OF SUSSEX. galley or skifF, and of 8 hides (about 800) a helmet and breast-plate. " This year were the ships ready, that we before spoke about ; and there were so many of them as never were in England before, in any king's days, as books tell us. And they were all transported together to Sand- wich ; that they should lie there, and defend this land against any ont- force. But we have not yet had the prosperity and the honour, that the naval armament should be useful to this land, any more than it oflep before was. It was at this same time, or a httle earlier, that Brihtric brother of Alderman Edric, bewrayed Wulnoth, the South-Saxon knight, father of Earl Godwin, to the king ; and he went into exile, and enticed the navy, till he had with him twenty ships ; with which he plundered everywhere by the south coast, and wrought every kind of mischief. MTien it was told the navy that they might easily seize him, if they would look about them, then took Brihtric with him about eighty ships ; and thought that he should acquire for himself much reputation, by getting Wulnoth into his hands alive or dead. But, whilst they were proceeding thitherward, there came such a wind against them, as no man remeoL- bered before ; which beat and tossed the ships, and drove them agroundj whereupon Wulnoth soon came and burned them. When this was known to the remaining ships, where the king was, how the others fared, it was then as if all were lost. The king went home, with the aldermen and the nobility ; and thus lightly did they forsake the ships ; whilst the men that were in them rowed them back to London. Thus lightly did they suffer the labour of all the people to be in vain ; nor was the terror lessened, as all England hoped. When this naval expedition was thus ended, then came, soon after Lammas, the formidable army of the enemy, called Thurkill's army, to Sandwich ; and soon they bent their march to Can- terbury ; which city they would quickly have storme 4 mill' aletium t. T. R. E. val't 8 lib. et 12 soL et post c. soL modo 12 lib. " In ead' villa, ten' Widardus de Will'o 6 hid' et una v». et p' tanto ae defd'. " Tres aloarii tenner' de Rege E., et potuer' ire quolibet Un' ex eis habnit anla': et vill'i tenner' partes alior' duor. "Fra e' 5 car. et est in uno M. In d'nio un' car. et dim', et xiii vill'i, et xxi bord', cu' 3 car. et dimid': iIm vii ac p'ti et silua pore. In Lewes 4 bags. T. R. £. val't x lib., et post viii lib., modo xii lib. " Ibide' ten' Wills, de Watevile Bristelmestune de Willo. Uluuard tenuit de R^e E. T'c et modo se defd' p. 5 hid' et dim*. T'ra e 4 car. In d'nio e' 1 car', et 13 vill'i, et ii Bord' cu' una car'. Iln 12 COAST OF SUSSEX. Brightelmston to Walter de Grey, son of hia brother Robert de Grey, which he had from Joane. " 6 Ed. I. John Earl Warren. " 6 Ed. II. John de Warren, Comes, Surr :— Brightelmston, Mercat: Per': " 9 Ed. II. Prior of Lewes seised. Qy. lb. John E. Warren released this manor to the king and his heirs. 4 Aug., 1317, John E. Warren. John Earl Warren. Richard E. of Arundd. 6 Octr. same year, granted to Thomas D. of Norfolk. This manor (inter alia) parcel of possessions of D. of Norfolk to John D. of Exeter. Earl of Arundel restored to his estate. " 21 K III. John de AVarren, Earl of Surrey: and the Earl of Arundel is his heir. " 1 Hen. IV. Thos. E. of Arundell beingrestored in blood, and the judge- ment against his father reversed in parliament, this manor became vested in him (inter alia) of which he died seised. 3 Hen. V., Oct 13, 1415, was succeeded by his coz^i, hr. male. Sir J. Fitzalan at Arundell, who dyed 29 April, 9 Hen. V. " 3 Hen. V. Thos, Earl of Arundd died seised of this manor, being re- stored in blood by act of parliament, 1 Hen. IV., and his father's judge- ment reversed: he married, 6 Hen. IV. Beatrix, an ill^timate daughter of the King of Portugal, and d. 3 Hen. V., 13th Oct. S. P. this manor, by virtue of an entail of Rd. E. of Arundell, passed to his cousin and next male heir. Sir John Fitzalan E. of ArundeL " 4 Hen. V. Thos. Eari of Arundd. " 7 Hen. V. Philip St. Clere. " 1 Hen. VI. Margaret, wife of Philip Seynt Clere and John her son. " 4 Hen. VI. On the partition in Chancery. John D. of Norfolk had this manor with its appendages, estimated at 18/. 16«. 7(2. "17 Hen. VI. Thos. Seynt Clere holds the manor of Brighton with lands and messuages in the same. " 18 Hen. VI. Beatrix, Countess of Arundel, held Brighton manor. " 3 Henry VII. Wm. Marqs. of Berkeley was seised of ^th of this manor, which he devised to Hen. Vll. in default of issue male of his owh body, to the disinheritance of his brother Maurice, who recovered this ^th part in 19 Hen. VI I. " In 4 Hen. VIII. One moiety of this manor, with several other pos- sessions in Sussex, was recovered by petition by Thomas Earl of Surrey, they having been devised by the Marquis of Berkdey to Hen. VII., and an act passed in the 7th of that king, whilst the petitioner was absent on the king's business in the north, and ignorant of it till the said parliament was ended. The answer is ' iSoi7 foit come i /est desiree.' The petition, which is complex, is contained in the Burrell MSS. 5685. FoL 36, 37. " 32 Hen. VIII. The king granted this manor and advowson to Ann of Cleves ; with a great many others in Sussex. BRIGHTOV. 13 " 2 Mary. ' The queen on the 27th day of Nov. let to farm to WiUiam May, valet of the kitchen, tlie manor of Brightelston with aO its appur- tenances for 21 years, from the feast of St. Michael last past, for the an- nual rent of 6/. 135. 4^) ADELINGWORTH. ABLINGWORTH. ' " This manor Ues in the parishes of Brighthelmston and Lewes ; it is the paramount manor, and extends over the Hoddown (Lord Pelham's estate), formerly a warren. " 7 Ed. I. John R Warren, by inheritance from his father, Wm. Warren, appears seized of Adelingworth." — Placit. Assis. Sussex, rot. S3. Peck's Stamford, b. 9, p. 8. " This manor belonge«l to the Priory of Lewes, and at the dissolatioD, 29 Hen. VIII., was granted to Sir Thomas Lord CrumweD, as also the rectory, with the advowson of the vicarage. . — " Radulphus de Clera, fil. et heres Radulphi de Clera salutem. Sdatis quod concedo monachis S'ti Pancracii terram de Hakelingsford, quam Radulphus pater mens et Rogenis patricus meus iisdem monachis ante donaverant. Ego Radulphus eandem terram obtuli percultellum meom super majus altare S'ti Pancratij eodem die quo R'ds. de Plaiz. pater meos in lege receptus fuit ibi ad sepehendum. Test. Rob'ta de Petraponte; Ha- gone de I'laiz., Anchero de Frescanville, Osberto Giffard, Ricardo de Cumba, Will'mo. de Bellamonte." — — " Radulphus de Clera frater et heres Rt^eri de Clera omnibus salt'm. Sciatis quod ego dono et concedo monachis S'ti Pancratii totam terram de Athelingworda quam Rogerus frater meus eisdem monachis in eleraosynam ante donaverat. Et banc donationem ^o fed pro salute dn'i noetri Hen-« » Register of Lewes Priory in Bodley Library, Oxon. MS. BRIGBTOM. 15 rid. Regis Anglite, et mea, et Radalphi de GlanTiIla, et prenoaunad Rogeri de Clara fratris mei et IXds Berts nxoris prcdicti Radalphi de Glanvilla ; corpus etiam meum eidem loco S'ci Pancraoi et p&tribas meu^ monacbis de Lewes ibidem sepeliendom. Test. RadoL de Plaiz, Rado. fil, ejus., AVill'mo de Garen, Rob'to de Petraponte, Bartho'meo de Caineto^ Rad'o de Clera."— — " Carta qoaliter Rogems de Clere filij R<^eri de Clere dedit monadus de Lewes totam terrain de Athelingworth. Test, &c. " HawiaadeGannioQ salutem" Sciatis me concessisse monacbis de Lewis totam terram de Athe- lingworth quam in dotem accepi ex donatione Rogeri de Clare mariti md^ sicut Roger de Clera et Radulphns frater et heies ipsins dedenmL " — " 25,E. 1. Ric'us, fiL Johannis, Addlingworth." — Tourer Records^ Ab. SOu " 6 H. 6. De quarta parte feod. milit. in Athelyngworth in Hondr. de Fyshergate dicunt quod at in manu Prions de Lewes et est dec.' — Juq. capt. ap. Lewes, 6 Hen. d. " 1 1 H. 4." As Claytom. "38 £liz. * Mem. at this c* there was much qaestion betw. Mr. SodBa^ now lord of this manor, and divers costomary tenants of y* said manor, whose fjmes and heriots were stinted by Sir Jn. Caryll daring y* time he was lord of y manor, whether y* s^ fynes and heriots shd amtinae and remain stint«i accg to S' Jn. C.'s grant (whidi y^ tenants laboored to uphold) or be arbitrable at y lord's will (which Mr. SoeDing orged), for that all or most part of y s' copyholds so granted were fonneriy pared of yarde landes (ut dicitur), all which are arbitrable; and therefore main- tained, that j' former lord co^ not stinte them to y prejudice of y" aoo- ceeding purchaser. And this was the reason that so many were put in proclamation at this court. 20 Eliz. Julii 3. Ciir. Ima Johis CaryU, arm. . Court Rolls 28 £liz. Oct. 1& Ditto p. Robt. Kyllam 31 £liz. Jan. 10, and 32 Eliz. Jan. 2. IKtto pt ThflL Churchar. . . . . Ditto Stewards. 38 £Uz. March 29. Richd. Sndlinge,£Y«/. Ct. RoHs John Bowe 41 Eliz. Jan. 5. No name 43 Eliz. Aug. 7. No name March 21, 1603 . . Bd-KiDycke 5 Jac. June 4. Curia prima, Gea SneDinge, wdL 8 Jac. Aug. 28. Ditto, Abr. Edwards, sen. and Abr. Edwards, jan. 1 1 Jac Ditto A|ir. 9 12 Jac. June 17. Cmia prima, Lancelot Fawfcoiar, gen. 15 Jac. Jan. 15. Ditto, Abr. Edwards, gen. ctNuai^. Abr. Edwards, defrmcU 17 Jac. Aug. 21. Ditto, Abr. Edwards, ge». Apr. 4, 1632. Abr. Edwards, ten. gen. 6 Car. Abr. Edwards, sen. gen. 22 Dec. John Rowe * Transcribed from the Court Rolls, Oct. 1783, in Mr. Atice's,of Bfigbton, i>osscssion. — W. B. 16 COAST OF SUSSEX. 17 & 18 Car. Jan. 15, 1639; 17 Car. Sq>t. 14. Do. and 18 Car. Mch. 23. Ditto . Thos. HongfatoD 19 Car. Oct. 14. Curia prima, AIh*. Edwards, gen. fil and her. Abr. Edwards, stm. grm. def. 93. Car. Mch. 29, 1670. IHtto . . Chas. Goodwin Feb. 9, 1696. No name . . W. Westbrook, ilr; Jan. 5, 1699. No name . . . Jn. Foreman 3 Wm. 3. July 24, 1701. Jane 8, 1702. Wm. Wot- IsocJce, esq, last ct. . . . Jn. Foreman 3 Anne. Oct. 13, 1 704. Elizabeth Westbrook, ^nnster John Taylor July 3, 1706. Ditto . . Jn. Whi^tain Dec 8, 1706. Ditto. 9 Oct. 1716. Her bst ct. as a spinster . Jn. Wakefiotd 4 Geo. 1. Oct 30, 1717. Thos. Andrew, esq. and Efi- zabeth his wife 4 Geo. 2. Apr. 17, 1731. IMtto, ditto. N.& Theirdi: m. Thos. F<^ . . Joseph Richardson Oct 8, 1734. No name . . Wm. Midieil 9 Geo. S. Oct. 17, 1735. Thomas Fdey, jnn. esq. . Ditto Not. 10, 1743, and Oct. 30, 1746. Thos. Foley, esq. 9 Not. 1749. Ditto . Ditto 25 Geo. 2. Oct. 31, 1751. Wm. Watsra, esq. (whose dr. and h. m. Davies, of Rye . . DIttB Jan. 9, 1754. Ditto, last ct. . . Ditto 4 Geo. 3. Jan. 5, 1765. Wm. Davies, esq. . Ditto March 12, 1772. Ditto . . Jas. IGchd Aug. 24, 1 773. Ditto. 11 Mdi. 178a IHttik N.B. He died about Sept., 1783, kavii^ his dr. and sole hdre, , wife of Tho& Lamb, esq. of Rye . . Ditto." " 4 Jac. Sir Edw. Bellingham held fredy to himself and his hdis lands and tenements in Aldrington, as of the manor of Allingwarth." — Rowe't MS. p. 156. " 9 Jac. 3 Jan. The homage presented that the north part of the BkKk- hoose in Brighton stands on the demesne lands of this mamn'. The cnstoms of this manor (as also of aU other the manors bdonging to y* late dissolved priory of Lewes), are the same with the costoms of the manor of 7* barony of Lewes. " 21 Jan. 5 Car. The yoonger brother is heir. " 8, 9, 15 Jac and 5 Car. The yoonger daughter is heir. " The yearly quit rents of y* manor, 6/. 18*. Id-, there being aboat 60 tenants, whereof 8 pay each of them a yard land, and some two yards, and pay fine at the Id's will, on death and alienation, and the best beast for • beriot ; and most of y< rest of y* tenants being for houses, pay 6d. fine, and 6d. heriot at every death and alienation; and some pay fines at wHl, and their best beast for a heriot. ''179a Thos. Philips Lamb, esq. ** It was lately the property of Thos. Foley, esq., and now bdongs to Mr. Jn. Davis, of Rye. 1774. BRIGHTON. Itf E R L E E S. ? BmrreU MSS. " This small manor lies in the parish of Brixton. " 1782. Thos. Kempe, Esq. 1790. Ditta HARE COURT. IbidaK. « This manor lies in BrigfatOD p'di. "19 Sep. 1690, Jn. Friend. 26 SepL 1709, Jn. Friend, gen., \ 27 Oct. 1725, ditto. I Ct. « 3 Nov. 1744. Jn. Friend, gen. / RoUs. "28 Aug. 1760. Mary Friend, widow. J "1782. Thos. Kemp^ Esq." Mr. Lee offers a conjecture that from the surnames of some of the oldest families, and also the phrases and pronunciation of some of the inhabitants in 1795, and some peculiar customs still extant, it is not improbable that a colony of Flemings had been once established here; and he extends his ideas to a very remote period, viz. soon after the Conquest, when he thinks that facilities might have been afforded from the cir- cumstance of the Queen Matilda, daughter of Baldwin, Earl of Flanders, being their country-woman, and her being able to influence a grant of lands, &c. from her son-in-law, William Earl de Warren. An inundation of the Low Countries had occurred about that time, and he thinks Brighton would have been a desirable residence, as they would have had a good market for their cured herrings, &c. at some of the continental ports. The conjecture, however, is rather far-fetched ; and it is equally probable that the emigration, if it ever took place, occurred at a much later period. In the " Pleas of Quo Warranto," taken before John de Rygate and his fellows, justices itinerant at Chichester in the 7th year of Edward (the first), son of Henry, Brighton is in- cluded with a great number of other places in Sussex, valued in the whole at 1000 pounds per annum, and forming the Honor and Rape of Lewes, in the claim of John de Warren, Earl of Surrey, who succeeded in establishing his right. c 18 COAST OK SUSSEX. In the year 1313, John de Warren obtained a charter for a market at Brighton every Thursday. In Pope Nicholas' taxation, 1291*, these entries occur. " * Eccl'ia de Brighelmeston' (a various ^ £ ». d. \ reading is given in a note ' Brist- f 20 f „ , alnerston.) i hi) t breve i " Vicar' ejusdem . , . . j 5 ^ The antiquity of the name of RusseU in this county (which ought to be revered as that of the founder of Brighton's prosperity) is shown in the same record. The entry occurs after HolewyTc, a name of which we know nothing, but some of our readers may, " Quod p'cpt Lucia Russell ad t'm vite sue de tannaria sua, £4 0." — " What Lucy Russell has as- signed for the term of her life, out of her tannery, £4 0." In the " Nonarum Inquisitioncs" is the following amply de- scriptive valuation of Brighton. " BRIGHTELMESTONE. " HsBC indentura testatur q"" capta fuit inq'si'co coram Henr' Husse et sociis suis coUectOTib's et assessor' ix' garb, veller. et agn' ac xv* d'no regi concess' in com' Sussex assig't* apud Lewes die d'nica in medio xl» anno regni regis Edwardi t'cii a 9 questu xv° sup' vero valore ix garbar. ix velL et ix agn' p' commissione dni' regis p'fato Henr' et sociis suis directis p' sacr'm Jolm de Erlee, Ilugon RusseU, John Dae, et Rad'i Grabbe, p'ocbiani de Brighthclmeslon, qui dicunt q'd extenta ecc'iie ibidem taxat' ad xxv'' cu' vicaria. Et dicunt q'd ix p's garb' valet p' annu ibidem ix'< viii" x'' de coitate ville. It' ix p's veller' ibid' valet xxvi' vi* et ix p's agn' ibid'valt vi-viii'. It'dicuntix p's garb' et veil prior de Lewes ibid'ra valet vii* viii*. It' ix p's garb' et veil' prior de Michelm' valet xxx* iiii''. Et sic est s'm totios none garb' veil' et agn. hoc a° xiii". It dicunt q'd ix p's p'dica no' respondet' n*^ attinge' potest ad txxam eccl'ie p'dicse p' eo q'd xl acr' t're submer's suntp* mare imppetuu' qua; valuer' p' annu' xl'. Et etiam dx acr' t're in col campo que deficier hoc a° ibid' in blad seiat p't x". Et q. lane no' possunt vendi sic' solebant p'c xiii' iiii ' indefectu. Et agni deficiet' ibid' in mor« hoc a° p' defectu p'c vi' viii'*. Et vicarius h't ibid' p'ficuu' de uno columbar. p'c ii*. It id'm h't ibid' in oblat' minut' decimis vid't auc' porcell' meD* lact' cas' vital' et ovor. et aliis minutis decimis que valent p' annu' Ixxv It' dicunt q'd nulli sunt ibid' ra'cator' set tr'e tenent qui triis p'priis et magn' labor' suis viv'ut t'mmodo. In cuj' rei testimonia' p'dici jur' huic indente' sigilla sua apposuer'." • The tenths of all the monasteries and churches in England were granted to tlip king for seven years by Nicholas IV., to encourage a crusade, on the event of the recent rai>ture of Acre by the Soldan of Babylon. BRIGHTON. 19 « BRIGHTHELMSTONE. " This indenture testifies that an inquisition was taken before Henry Husse and his fellows, collectors, and assessors of the ixth of garbd fleeces and lambs, and of the xvth granted to our lord the king, in the county of Sussex, assigned at Lewes on a Sunday in the middle of the iOth year of the reign of King Edward the Third, from the nonal inquest, and the quindecimal concerning the true value of the ninth of garbel, ninth of fleeces, and ninth of lambs, by commission of our lord the king directed to the aforesaid Henry and his fellows, by the oath of John de Erlee, Hugh Russell, John Dae', and Ralph Grabbe, parishioners of Brighthelmston — who say, that the extent of the church there is taxed at 25 pounds with the vicarage. And they say that the ninth part of garbel (com) is worth, this year, there, 9 pounds 8 shillings and 1 pence from the community of the town. Also the ninth part of fleeces there is worth 26 shillings and 6 pence, and the ninth part of lambs there is worth 6 shillings and 8 pence. Also they say, that the ninth part of garbel (com) and fleeces of the prior of Lewes there is worth 7 shillings and 8 pence. Also the ninth part of garbel (corn) and fleeces of the prior of Michelham is worth 30 shilUngs and 4 pence. And so is the sum of the whole ninth of garbel, fleeces, and lambs, this year, 13 pounds. Also they say, that the ninth part aforesaid cannot answer nor attain to the taxation of the church aforesaid, for that 40 acres of land are drowned by the sea for ever, which were worth per annum 40 shillings. And also 160 acres of land in the common plain which have been deficient there this year in com sown, to the value of 10 pounds. And because the wool cannot be sold as it was wont, the value of 13 shillings and 4 pence is deficient. And also the lambs there will be deficient in the pasture* this year by defect of value, 6 shillings and 8 pence. And the vicar has there the first-fruits of one dovehouse, value 2 shillings. And the same has there in offerings, small tithes of geese, sucking pigs, honey, milk, cheese, calves, and eggs, and other small tithes which are worth yearly 70 shillings. Also they say, that there are here no merchants, but tenants of land who live by their own lands, and their great labours only. In testimony of which thing, the aforesaid sworn men have affixed their seals to this indenture." — Editor, Those of the inhabitants who gained their living by hus- bandry and fishing are supposed, in this case, to have become prosperous under the Norman rule, which led to the esta- blishment of their market. The landsmen dwelt on the cliff; the mariners under it : in process of time the latter increased so as to form two-thirds of the population. The lower town, beneath the cliffs, becoming, in the fourteenth century, too • " Mora :" of about twenty renderings in Facciolatus, not one wss at all applicable to the context here. In " Blount's Legal Tenures" we found it interpreted " a marshy meadow, or he8tb."r- Qy, Moor t c2 20 COAST OF SUSSEX. small for the mariners, they built " East-street" and ** West- street." The landsmen also built some intermediate streets, and the proprietors of the North Lanes formed, for their con- venience, at that end of the tO\vn, the *' North-street.'" — From Lee. In 1377, immediately after the death of Edward III., and in the nonage of his son, Richard I., the French, in retaliation of the bold and ambitious projects of the former (the ** lion being dead"), embarked an armament and sailed, with vin- dictive and predatory intentions, for the southern coast of England. Their purpose was to a certain degree successfal ; but their course seems to have been extremely vague and eccentric. They first burnt Rye, then made a jump westward to the Isle of Wight, where the inhabitants, after some part of their island had suffered ravages, were compelled to pur- chase their absence by a bribe of 1000 marks of silver. Thence they advanced and pillaged Portsmouth, Plymouth, and Dart- mouth ; returned to Southampton, where they were repelled by Sir John Arundel, the governor; made an excursion to Hastings, which they pillaged and burnt, but were foiled at Winchelsea, and at length effected a landing at Rottingdean. Here they were met by an intrepid Prior of Lewes, John de Carileco, Sir Thos. Cheney, Constable of Dover castle. Sir John Falseleg, John Brocas, Esquire, and others, with their tenants and vassals, aided by the peasantry of the neighbour- hood in general, who came to render their assistance with right good will. The numbers and experience on the side of the English were unable to compete with the Gallic invaders: the peasants were compelled to retreat with the loss of one hundred men, whilst the Prior, Sir Thomas Cheney, and Sir John Falseleor, were made prisoners, and carried to France. They accomplished however one most beneficial end, their gallant struggle checked the further attempts of the invaders, who retired to their ships and sought again their native land. No accounts have been transmitted to us of depredations committed at Brighton by these ravagers, but there can be little doubt this was the case, if there was any thing valuable BRIGHTON. 21 and worthy of being carried away, as the town possessed no means of effectual defence. The coast " Watch and Ward," called in the King's writs ** VtgilicB minutw" are said to have been of great service at this juncture. Their duties were nocturnal, and they were only called upon in great emergencies. They consisted of men at arms and light cavalry mounted on fleet horses, termed ** Hobilers," from a certain jacket they wore, which was called a « Hobil." In 1513, when Henry VIII. had, without much reason, de- clared war against Louis XII., Brighton was attacked, pil- laged, and partly burnt by a French fleet, commanded by a Monsieur PregenL After the defeat of Sir Edward Howard off Brest, the French sailed to the coast of Sussex, landed some men at Brighthelmston in the night, who plundered it of every thing valuable which was removeable, set many houses on fire, and wantonly slew some inhabitants. They fled and alarmed the neighbours; but the French re-embarked the next morning, before the country could be assembled in any force. On this occasion the free chapel of St. Bartholmnew, in the centre of the town, was so far destroyed that it never afterwards recovered its accustomed use and influence. The next year, Brighton was also annoyed by a nocturnal visit from some French slu'ps, commanded by Prior Jehan, the high admiral : " but when the people began to gather, by firing the beacons. Prior Jehan sounded his trumpet to call his men aboard, and by that time it was day. Then certain archers that kept the watch followed Prior Jehan to the sea, and shot so fast that they beat the galley men from the shore, and wounded many in the fleet : to which Prior Jehan was constrained to wade, and was shot in the face with an arrow, so that he lost one of his eyes, and was like to have died of the hurt, and therefore he offered his image of wax before our lady at Bullogne, with the English arrow in the face, for a miracle*." — Holinthed. * Or were these two in\-asion8 onlj one fiid the same? The reader aiust excuse us if we make a mistake, we ftod tbem difTcreiitly related. — Ed. Sfi COAST OF S088£X. In the year 1535, a few years before the dissolutioD of th« monasteries, a general ecclesiastical valuation was made by order of the King, whose avarice was whetted towards the seizure of their spoils. The following particulars are included respecting Brighton. DECANATUS LEWENS'. PRIORATUS LEWENS'. BRIGHTELMYSTON. " Firma rectorie ibidem cum o'mibus proficois et com'odit et di', Ric'o Nicolle p' tennino annorum, et red' inde per anna' xvi"." DECANATUS LEWENS'. " Leonardos Savell cl'icus vicarius ib'm : valet dare per annu' cum oinib's p'ficuis et comoditatibus, idtra ii' ii' oh, annuati' soF epo* Cicestren' pro procuracce' annua : vi' viii'' sol archno Cicestren' pro procuracoe' annua : xviii'' sol eidem arolmo pro sinodal'; vii* vi** annuatim sol' vicaiio ecclTe de Hova pro pensione annua xx" ii' i* oh. " Inde X' xl* u^ ob'q'." TRIOR ATUS DE MICHELHAM, UNDE BRIGHTHELYMYSTON. " Firma certarum terr' et tenementorum ib'm in tenuru Johannis Smyth al' A\'aterman : reddend' inde per anna' O." DEANERY OF LEWES; PRIORY OF LEWES. BRIGHTHELMYSTON. " Farm of the rectory there, with all first-fruits and advantages and various things, let to RJchard NicoUe for a term of years, and the rent thence by the year 16L" DEANERY OF LEWES. " Leonard Savell, clerk, vicar there; it is worth, clear, by the year, with all first-fruits and advantages, beyond ■^s. 2\d. annually paid to the Bishop of Chichester for annual procuration ; 6s. 6d. paid to the Ardideacon of Cliichester for annual procuration ; 16d. paid to the same Archdeacon for synodals ; 7s. 6d. paid to the Vicar of the church of Hove, for annual penaion; 20/. it. Ijrf. " Thence the tenth , iO*. «}ancboted. — Mr, EUi*,from GrnjUtm. S4 COAST OF SUSSEX. establislied against future incursions. Fir^t then as to the ships, their number rather exceeds twenty: the largest has four masts, several three, some two, and the remainder are long row-galleys with one mast and a single long and large Latine sail (though not so immense as that of Mr. Brace's Abyssinian Rais, which was 200 feet in length). We should not suppose, from its appearance, that the largest exceeded 600 or 700 tons, and it does not seem as if it carried more than about twelve large guns *. The decks are raised at the prows and sterns in three or four stages, like the towered barks of the Romans. Each ship is adorned with eight or ten pen- nons or streamers ; some have a large gold fleur-de-lys on blue, others a red cross on white. On the sea, towards the Avest side, is inscribed — " Shypes may ride all somer tem in a myle the towne in V fathome water." On the west side — " Thesse grete shyppes rydeng hard abode shore by shoting into the hill and wallies on the towne, so sore oppresse the towne that the countrey dare not aduenture to resscue it." • There are smaller apertures, which may be port-holes, above, but only four liirge ones on each side. This is much inferior to the armament of the brave Sir Andrew Barton, in the year 1511, as described in the fine old ballad in Dr. Percy's collection. • • • • lie is brass within, and steel without, With beams in his top-castle Btrong, And eighteen pieces of ordinance He carries on each side along — And he hath a pinnace deerly dight, St. Andrew's cross, that is his guide. His pinnace beareth ninescore men. And fifteen cannons on each side. Were ye twenty ships, and he but one, I swear by kirk and bower and hall. He would overcome them every one, If once his beams they do down &1L • • • • Dr. Perry thinks that the mode of defence here alluded to, was the relic of an ancient invention of the Romans, called Dolphins, which were heavy weights of lead or iron, or, in the present instance, l)eams, suspended by ropes to the main-top-mast. On an enemy's ship bring brought close alongside, the ropes were cut, and the beams fulling on tlic deck of the hostile ship with great force, either sunk or matt'riHlly damaged it. BRIGHTON. 25 Next, as to the shore and town. There are no houses here under the clifF, which puzzles us as to the meaning of that ex- pression. The town lies west of the present opening to the Steyne^ and consists of two or three streets and lanes, the outer line of the whole forming a square, " a felde*" is in the middle of the town. The valley coming from Lewes is designated, as also that from " Ponynge," between *' Brithampston" and Hove. At the bottom, next the sea, is inscribed — " Upon this west pte may lond c m p'sones (100,000 persons) unletted by any pVision there." The church is badly drawn, some persons near it appear as if in an attitude of supplication : above are two " wynde mylles," and still higher ** the bekon of the towne,"" a blazing saucer-shaped receptacle on a pole. Hoove church is, judging from the ruins, very incorrectly drawn; the village consists of a few houses near the sea. Further westward is inscribed — " The west parte of Brethampston, lowe all daungerous and wout cleves (without chffs)." At the present opening of the Steyne is inscribed — " Here landed the galeys." Many houses in the town are on fire. The soldiers represented on the shore we suppose to be meant for the French : they are dressed in red, with the red cross banner on a white ground; others just landing are in blue, with the banner of blue and fleur-de-lys, whom we conjecture to be the sailors. About the spot where Tuppen's hbrary now stands is *• the towne fire cage,'" — a large blazing grate, very similar to those now suspended in an evening at the yard-arms of colliers- hanging by a massive chain from a cross beam, on the see- saw principle, raised on an upright, probably from thirty to forty feet high : this must have been an effective beacon, but it is surprising that it was not placed on higher ground. On the east cliff is inscribed — " The east pte of Brithampston riseng onelye on cleves high :'" but there are no houses in this direction. There is in this map a reckless and intrepid abandonment of what is now termed perspective. It appears by it, that the roads to the church, also to Poynings and Lewes, were exactly perpendicular ; and the inhabitants must have perpetually been 26 COAST OF SUSSEX. under the unpleasant necessity of going on all fours, and evett then would often need a little friendly assistance, a priori, or otherwise. Some of the galleys on landing at the beach are making a summerset, and tumbling backwards. The relative dimensions of the men and their houses must also have been then on a very different plan to what they are now, the former being larger than the latter : but these are trifles. In 1558, 1 Eliz., was erected the Block-House, a drcolar building, fifty feet in diameter, eight feet thick, and eighteen feet high ; in the walls were arched apartments for powder, &C. ; and in front the " Gun Garden," containing a battery of four pieces of iron ordnance. A further description of these works will be found a few pages beyond. Court RoOs. « 1 Eliz. At a Court Baron, holden for this manor, 27th Sq>t., tha* was granted to the inhabitants of Brighton town by the lords, one pared of land, containing in length 30 feet, in breadth 1 6 feet, to build thereon a store~house to keep armes, &c., now called the Block-house. Also at the Court, holden for Atiingworth manor, 3 Jac 9 Jan. the homage presented that the north part of the block-house aforesaid is built on part of the demesnes of that manor." — Roue's MSS. apud BurrelL A record, dated 1579, states that, ** there are in the said town of Brighthelmston of fishing-boats four score in number, and of able mariners four hundred in number, with tea thou- sand fishing-nets, besides many other necessaries belonging to their mystery." — Relhan. A false alarm, in 1586, of the approach of the Spanish armada, gave the inhabitants of the coast an opportunity of evincing their promptitude and zeal. Fifty ships appeared in the offing, apparently waiting for a suitable time for landing. An express was sent to Lord Buckhurst, lord heutenant of the county, and one of the lords of the manor of Brighton, who assembled all the armed men he could muster, and took poet between Brighton and Rottingdean. In the night his forces were increased to IGOO men, with the additional encouragement of BRIGHTOM. S7 the announced approach of a body of Kentish men to rendo' their aid. The fleet still showing no demonstrations of hostile intention, in tlie morning afew boats ventured out to reconnoitre, and found them to be Dutch vessels laden with Spanish wine, and waiting for a favourable wind to proceed up the ChanneL — Lee. At the actual approach of the Spanish armada the inhabit- ants exerted themselves with diligence ; they had then in the town, belonging to government, sis pieces of great iron ord- nance and ten ** qualivers^ a kind of small cannon. — lb. 'The shores of Sussex were lined by people when this armada passed by, pursued by the light and expert navy of England, with a determination of obstinate resistance. — lb. In 1581, Willm. Midwinter, sailor, sold the scite of St. Bartholomew to- Thos. Friend and others, in trust for the town, for the sum of 44/. — lb. In 1648, Henry Hilton, commonly called Baron Hilton, of Hilton, Co. Palatine of Durham, left to the town of Brighton 24/. per ann. for 99 years. — Lee. Court RoOs. " 1 April, 1645. Homage present Willm. GaUaii, joa., for not paying to Rd. Cook, lord's reeve, for his lady net's fishing, according to ye ancient custom \d., give him time to pay it to the said R. C, at or before St. Jd. Baptist next, on payn of &s." — Burrell MSS. " 25 Aug. 1648. We present Xiebs. Payne for building his new house and shop under the clifis, upon the bank of the dif^ to the hurt and annoyance of the whole towne, if we shd. have any occasion to use the ordnance, or that there shd. be any invasion by a foreign enemy.' — lb. " 25 Aug. 1654. We present Nics. Payne for encroaching on the lord's waste, and building of his walls 14 feet, or thereabout, more than he is admitted to, to ye diffe side, before ye place where ye great guns path doth stand to ye annoyance and great hindrance of ye wbcde towne and ooontry, and we fine him for it." — lb. About the middle of the 17th century, the mariners of Brighton were not prosperous ; frequent captures had injured their trade. The sea began to encroach on the coast of Sussex, by one of those unaccountable revolutions of nature, deserting 28 COAST OF SUSSEX. some places and invading others. Previous to 16()5 it had de- stroyed 22 copyhold tenements under the cliff, in the manor of Brighton Lewes, among which were 12 shops, with 4 stake- places and 4 capstan-places attached to them, and 3 cottages and 3 parcels of land adjoining. There remained under the cliff 113 tenements, shops, capstan-places, stake-places, and cottages, which were finally demolished by terrible storms in 1703 and 1705.— /'row Z«r. The next and most remarkable event in the history of Brighton, is the escape of Charles II,: and here we are enabled to lay before the reader a veey curious and recherche article indeed, to which we beg strongly to challenge his attention ; as to those who have an avidity for curious pieces of antiquity, it will be actually worth more than the cost of the volume. The MS. has only recently come into the possession of the British Museum, and was not previously generally known to be in existence. It has, of course, never been published, nor even publicly read throughout ; but on a part of it being read, Nov. 21, 1822, before the Royal Society of Literature, they pronounced it to be a work of great curiosity, as supplying a gap (connected with the escape of Charles II.) in the general history of England, never before filled up. The MS. was copied for our express use, and is now published by special permission (limited to us), obtained with some little difficulty from the trustees of the British Museum. Information of the existence of this manuscript came to us at a vtry late period, and we had not even time to read it through previous to its being transcribed ; but we can rely with the fullest confidence on its fidelity ; and of the original we may say, as Hamlet did of the Ghost, — " We would take its word for a thousand pound." It may not be inappropriate to add, in this captious age* that we insert this ancient record as a curious article of history, which may now be read with the interest of a romance, and BRIGHTOK. 29 that we do not desire to be identified with all the sentiments it contains. Still less, however, do we wish to venture out on the tempestuous sea of politics. May fair morning yet betide us after a stormy night ; and may our best and most worthy landmarks, after being long darkened by boiling and contending surges, lift up their snowy heads again in calm and sunshine ! Still we fearlessly hasten to acknowledge, even in this age, that we entertain a respect for the motives and principles of many of the Royalists; as undeniably possessing one intrin- sically noble quality, not always practically experienced in modern times — faithful disinterestedness. Really believing ia the divine right and sacredness of person in the existing monarch, they were willing to risk their whole substance and their life in defending it. Granting it might be a delusion, was it not a happy one, as supplying a highly interesting motive of action, where virtue was associated with the most cherished sympathies? And where, in any party of the pre^ sent day, shall we easily find love and friendship equal to loyalty in the seventeenth century ! ** The last act, in the miraculous Storie of his Mties escape; being a true and perfect relation of his conveyance, through many dangers, to a saj'e harbour; out of the reach of his tyranicall enemies ; by Colonell Counter ; of Rackton in Sussex ; who had the happines to bee instrumentall in the busines, (as it mas taken from his mouth by a person of worth a little before his death J." "The king was now attHeale, within three miles of Salisbury, where we begin our storie : — My Lord Willmot, his faithful and watchful attendant, att Salisburie ; there Dr. Hinchman, now the right reverend Bp. of Salisbury (inspired by God himself, as may well be thought by the successe), gave him counsel! ; first, to try att Lawrence Hyde's, Esq., living at Hinton Dambray in Hamshire, neere the sea side, what could be done for a passage ; then, if that did not succeed, to reptaire to Coll. George Gounter at Rackton, fower miles from Chi- 30 COAST OF SUSSEX. Chester in Sussex, befng verie confident of his fidelitie, and that he would contribute to the uttmost of his power to bring this great and weightie business, as for the difficulties they must encounter, soe for the consequence, if conclusive, to a good end. Here, before I proceed with, hope the reader will give mee leave to put in mind, that wee wryte not an ordinarie storie, where the reader, engaged by noe other interest than curiositie, may soone bee cloyed with circumstances, which signify no more unto him, but that the author was aU good leisure, and was very confident of his readers patience. In the relation of miracles every petty circumstance is material!, and may affoard to the judicious reader matter of good speculation; of such a miracle, especiallie where the restauration of noe less than three kingdomes, and his owne particular libertie and safetie (if a good and faithful subject) was att the stake; I may not, therefore, omitt to lett him knowe howe things stood with the Colonell at that t3rme. Not above fourteene dayes before the said Colonell Gounter was confined, upon paine of imprisonment, not to stirre five miles from home. In the very nick of tyme, when bee was first thought upon for soe great a worke, comes a messenger with a warrant from the Commis- sioners of Haberdashers Hall, London, to summon him to appeare before them within ten dayes to pay twoe hundred pounds for his fifth and twentieth part which they had sett him, upon peyne of sequestration upon default. He first re- fused, and told the messenger that he was confined, and could not goe five miles from home ; but he left with him the order, and told him it should be att his perill if he did not obey it. The Coll. the next day repaired to Chichester, fower miles from him, to the commissioners there, to shew them his order; they peremptorily replyed he must goe, and his order would bear him out. Hee went accordingly and compounded with them, and gott off a 100/. of the twoe hundred he was sett att ; but his credit being shaken, the current running then soe hard against the king, the royal party, and all good men, that be could not borrowe the money in all London ; hee was forced. BRIGHTON. SI with all speede, to repaire into the countrey, and went privatly to his usurer, who had the security of his whole estates ; iie shewed him his danger, and requested to borrowe [the maaej] upon his bond and his forma* securitie, who readily 0(m> descended, and told him out the money ; the next day he was to call for it and seale the bond. Hee had noe sooner ended this busines, beeing stayed by some friends longer than hee ia. tended, butt that very night hee came home (being 7 October, 1651) hee found some att his house whoe were come about their designe. I think it will easily bee graunted by any that reades and considers, that this was not without a providoice, since that it is apparent, that if his friends had come before hee had beene licensed to goe abroad, hee must needes have been excused ; and if they had come much after, it was possible a new restraint might have come betweene ; or his hbertie in goeing soe freely up and downe after his busines ended more suspected. But now to the storie and entertainement of his guests : — betwixt eight and nine of the clock att night, the Coll. came home ; entering in at his doore the ColL's ladye mett him, and told him there was in the parlour a Deavonshire gentleman, sent by Mr. Hyde, aforesaid, about a reference, which none besydes yourself can decide: at the Coll.'s comming in, he found his Deavonshire gentleman sitting att one end <^ the chimney, Captain Thomas Counter att the other, and his lady (which was gone in before) in the middle. The gentleman rose and saluted him : the Coll. presently knewe him to be the Ld. Wilmot ; which the noble Lord perceiving, took the Colin asyde to the windowe : I see you know me (said he) doe not owne mee. Captaine Thomas Counter, the Colls, kinsman, for all he had a long tyme beene in the Army and under his ocxn- mand, knew him not, wch was strange, the noble Lord beeing but meanly disguised. After a bottle of sack, a short collation which was made readie as soon as it could. My Lords man Swan coming in to waite whispered his maister in the eare; and told liim, my Lord ^Ventworths boy Lonie was without, and wished him to bee careful! for feare the boy should knowe him : being taken by Captaine Thomas Counter in distress att 8S COAST OF 8VSSKX. Chelsey, and cloathed by him to wayte upon him. Suppef ended, there was whispering betweene the Colls kinsman and his lady, and shee told him shee was confident of a disguise, and that it was the Mr. by his hand. Hee beat her off of it as much as he could, suspecting noe such matter himselfe. Within halfe an hower after supper the Coll. offered the noble lord [my Lord Wilmot] then by name IVIr. Barlowe, it being late, and as the greatest courtesie hee could then shewe him, to waite upon him to his chamber, and to bedd ; which hee readily tooke up the candle the noble lord following him accepted- The Coll [ accordingly waited onn him ], his Lady and kinsman attending. When he came into the cham- ber, it beeing late, the Coll. desired his Lady and kinsman to goe to bedd and leave him ; for he was bound to waite upon this Gentleman awhyle. They tooke leave, and bidd him The noble good night, [ My ] Lord, and y* Coll. being alone, hee broke the business unto the Coll. with these words, sighing: The King of England my maister, your msuster, and the maister of all good Englishmen, is neere you and in great distresse ; can you help us to a boate ? The Coll. looking very saddly, after some pause, said. Is hee well : Is hee safe : He said yeas : The Coll. replyed God be blessed, and gave him a reason for his question ; if he should not bee secure, he doubted not but he could secure him, till a boate could bee gotten. The noble L''. not knowing what had beene done, beene and what course had [Mrs. Hide] taken for securing of his Ma^p. at Heale, since he came away, answered the Col. He hoped hee was out of daimger at present, but intended to bee at his house with him, on the Wensday. Soe he said and soe it seemes it was resolved: but second thoughts, and unex- pected accommodations elsewhere, had altered the designe. However upon the hearing of this the Coll**, thoughts were much raised, in expectation of such a guest ; untill he was better informed as hee was soone after, to his great content and satisfaction, knowing the house well, and the conveniendes thereof, and the worth, and fidelitie of the persons. Now to the maine busines of procuring a boate : The Col. told the BBIGHTOK. 33 Lord seriously, and nothing but the trueth, that for all he lived soe neere the sea ; yet there was noe man living, soe little acquainted with these kind of men : However as hee thought himselfe bound by all obligations sacred and avill, to would doe his utmost to preserve his King: soe he [did] faithfully promise with all possible care and alacritie, yea expedition (which he accounted to bee the life of such a busines;) to acquitt himselfe of his dutie. The noble Lord, my Hon^ friend (6 that God had beene pleased to have spared him life :) was abundantly satisfyed with this answer, hugging him in his armes, and kist his cheeke againe and againe. For that tyme the Coll. bid him good night, desiring him to rest secure, for that he would watch, whylest he slept, and that he doubted not, but in good tyme all would bee well, Comming into his chamber, he found his wyfe had stayed up for him, and was very earnest to knowe whoe this was, and what was his busines. The Coll. desired her to excuse him, assuring her it was nothing concerning her, or, that would any wayes damnifye her. Shee was confident there was more in it than soe, and enough shee doubted, to ruine him, and all his family ; and in that, said shee, I am concerned ; breaking out into a very great passion of weeping. Which the Coll. seeing, tooke a candle pretending to goe into the next roome, but privatly to my Lord Willmot, and acquainted him how it was ; asking his advice, whether, as the case stood, it were any way amisse, to acquaint her with it That he durst passe his word, for the loyaltie and integritie of his wife : however without his The Noble allowance shee should knowe nothing. Q My ] Lord re- plyed ; No, no, by all meanes acquaint her with it. He humbly thancked him, and badd him good night agdne. The CoL comming into his chamber unfolded the busines, wyped the teares of his ladyes eyes, whoe smiling, said, Goe on, and prosper. Yet I feare you will hardly doe it : However said the Coll. I must endeavour, and will doe my best, leaving the successe to God Almightie : his lady deporting herselfe, during the whole carriage of the busines with soe much discretion, D 34 COAST OF SUtrSEX. courage, and fidelitic, that (without vanity bee it spoken) she^ seemed (her danger considered) to outgoe her sexe. Neyther will the reader thinck this an impertinent circumstance, since the suc- cesse of the busines did not a little depend of her concurrance, " The Coll. contenting himselfe with very little sleepe that night, rose very early the next morning, being Wednesday the 8'*' of Octobre ; as he had promised the Lord Wilmot ; and rode to Elmsworth, a place twoe miles from him, and by the sea syde, passing through Boome. He tooke an old servant of his formerly, John Day, a trustie man and very loyall subject whoe was related to seamen of very good accoumpt ; whoe with their Barkes used to lye there : But they being out of the way, could doe noe good there : although fower yeares after, the Col. did att the same place, att his owne charges, hire a barke for the Lord Wilmot, whoe came over att his Mat'c command, and loosing his designe, was forced to come from allmost the furthest North to the South, before hee could gett a passage. Soe few friends had then his Sacred Ma*K in his distresses, now soe numerous in expectation of rewards. The Col. hasted all he could home to give my Lord accoumpt, who had promised not to stirre, till the Co- lonell came ; but being impatient of any delay, had left the Col's, house, soe that the Col. mett him within halfe a mile of it ; and gave him an accoumpt of his mornings worke that nothing could be done where he had beene. The noble Lord and the Coll. rid on, and went to Langstone, a place by the sea, and where boates use. As he was riding along hee put his hand in his pocket, and missed his money, for comming away in hast from the Coil's, house he had left it behinde him in his bedd. Immediatly he sent his man Swan for it. The Coil's. Ladye hearing my Lord was gone, which shee much wonderd att, had beene in his chamber and found the bedd open ; and in the middle a black purse full of gold, which shee had secured, and gave it the man when he came for it. Whea wee wee wee [they] came to Langston [they] attempted all [they] could ; but in vaine. The noble Lord and the Coll. eate oisters there* BKICHTON. 35 and then they parted ; the Lord, to Mr. Hydes house afore- said, there to expect the accoumpt of the Colls, proceedings; the Coll. came home ; and immediately iraployed his kinsman, Captaine Thomas Counter, (whoe by this, was made ac- quainted ;) to inquire of severall other places, and to meet the Coll. next day att Chichester, to give him an accoumpt : all which the Coll. imparted that night to my Lord Willmot, att Mr. Hydes house att Hinton Daubney aforesaid. After supper, the CoU. tooke his leave of the Lord, it being a very dismall night for winde and raine : which made the Lord very much to importune the Coll. to stay ; but he refused, replying that delayes were dangerous, and lett the weather bewhat it would he had a sure guide. " The Coll. touched att his owne house by the way, betwixt one and twoe of the clock that night ; and layd downe upon his bedd, and after twoe houres rest, rose from bedd and went immediately to Chichester, to meete his kinsman, Thomas Crounter (9th of October), according to appointment. From whome hee received this accoumpt, that both he and his kinsman, Mr. William Rishton, a loyall gentleman, and one engaged all along in the warre, under the Colls, command, had endeavoured all they could, but without successe. Then the Coll. bethought himself, and conceived the next and best expedient, would be to treat with a French merchant, one that usually traded into France; and went to one Mr. Francis Mancell, a stranger then to the Coll. and only known unto him by face, as casually he had mett him with severall other companies, pretending to give him a visitt, and to bee better acquainted with him. He received him courteously, and entertained him with a bottle or twoe of his French wine, and Spanish tobacco. After a whyle the Coll. broke the busines to him, saying, I doe not only come to visitt you, but must request one favour of you. He replyed ; Any thing in his power. Then the Coll. asked him, if hee could fraught a barke ; for, said he, I have twoe speciall friends of mine, that have beene engaged in a duell, and there is mischief done, ^d I am obliged to gett them of if I can. Hee doubted not n *> 36 COAST OF SUSSEX. butt he could att sucli a place, att Brighthemston in Sussex, The Coll. prest him then to goe with him immedeatly, and if he could effect the busines, hee would give him fifty pounds for his peynes ; but it being Stowe faire day there and his partner out of the way, hee could not possibly untill the next day, and then he promised him faithfully bee would goe with wee him, and doe his best. Soe accordingly [they] ag;reed. *' Then the Coll. whoe had promised to the noble Lord Will- mot, an accoumpt att Mr. Hydes bouse aforesaid, once in twdve or 24 houres at furthest repayred thyther accordingly and told him all that was done. The noble Lord approved, and liked his proceedings [the way wondrous] well. It being very late, and very dark^ and boistrous weather, the Coll. tooke his leave. His horse being allmost spent, he borrowed a horse of his kinsman Mr. Hide whoe lent him his faulkners horse beeing as it seonea the best he then had which served to carrie him home ; and the next morning to Chichester. The CoU. tooke his owne house in the way, and rested upon a bedd for a whyle, and went unto Chichester, the 10th of October being Fryday ac- cording to former appointment. The merchant being destitute of a horse, the Coll. horst him upon the horse borrowed of Mr. Hyde, and borrowed one for himselfe of his kinsman Captaine Thomas Counter, and went away accordingly, de- siring his kinsman to repaire to my Lord Willmot, and to give him the accoumpt of his departure from Chichester, in further prosecution of the busines, and to remaine with him in order- to his commands during his absense. The marchant went immedeatly to inquire; but the seaman he chiefly depended upon, was gone for Chichester, whoe had bargained for s fraught there ; but as Providence would have it, he touched att Shoram, fower myles from Brightemston. I perswaded the marchant, to send to him immediatly, to come to him upon earnest busines ; and [lie] doubted not but he would come, which tooke effect accordingly. The Coll. had agreed with the marchant, to treat with the boatman, beeing his affaire and trade; he to sett by as newter, promi^ng the marchant, to BKIGHTOX. 37 malce good, and to pay him, whatere he should agree for; but withall desired, to gett it as lowe as he could. They stayed there that night, and by Saturday the 11th of October, by twoe of the clock, made a perfect agreement ; which was, that he was to have 60*^. paid him in hand, before he tooke them into the boate. For he would know what he should carrie, or he would not treat ; soe that the marchant was forced to tell him, himselfe knowing noe more than what the ColL had said to him, of twoe friends, &c. Hee was to bee in readines upon an bowers warning; and the marchant to stay there^ under pretence of fraughting his barke ; to see all things in readines against the Coll. and his twoe friends arriral. For the ColL knew not when he should come, but privatly promised the merchant to defray all his charges and to give him fifty pounds, as aforesaid for his paines, which was afterwards accordingly done. But this 50^'. and the 60''. paid to the boateman, the king himselfe, before he went away, tooke order for and his order was executed. All things agreed upon, the ColL tooke leave of the marchant, about 3 of the clock, to give my LiOrd Willmot this account, and came to ^Ir. Hydes house aforesaid, betwixt eight and nine in the night ; but my Lord, and the Colls, kinsman Captaine Gounter, were remooved, to a tenants this] of my cozin Hydes one Mrs. Browne and one that had mamed [his] my my cousin Counters sister. But the Coll. comming into [his] Cozin Hydes house as aforesaid, found there his cousin Hyde, and ColL Robert Phiiipps in his chamber goeing to bedd, whoe was very inquisitive to know how things stood. He gave in short, that all things were well and in a readines. Upon which Col. Philips replyed. Thou shalt be a saint in my Almanack for ever. Mr. Hyde was very earnest to have had the Coll. stay all night, and to goe, and give an account, the morrow morning; butt he desired to be excused, for that he knew he was expected, and could not in honour but give his account without delay. Whereupon ColL Phiiipps would me And wc my cousin goe with [him]. [Soe they] tooke leave of [ Mr. ] Hyde 3d COAST OF tUSSKX. came where for that night ; and [went to] my Lord Willmot was and had me I earnestly expected [him]. After [he] had saluted him, and given him a full account of all proceedings, the noble Lord was infinitly pleased and satisfyed, and presently had in cod- sultation, whoc should goe for the King ; and it was agreed that Coll. Philipps should, by reason that Coll. Gounto* was much tyred out, and would neede rest for further employement. " Soe Coll. Philipps upon Sunday the 12* of October, went to give the King an accoumpt, and to conduct him to the Lord Willmot, and to the said Coll. Gounter. In the in- terim, whylest they expected, upon Munday the 13* of October, the Lord Willmot, Coll. Gounter, and Captaine Thomas Gounter beeing altogether att dinner agreed to ride out upon the Downes. The ColL for a blinde went to Ham- bledon, hard by, to give his sister a visitt, and there borrowed a brace of greyhounds, for that his Cozin Gounter, and other gentlemen were upon the Downes, and had a minde to have a course att a haire, and 'twas possible, if they did not beat to farre and should stay out late, they might all come and bee merry with her that night; however, shee should be sure of her doggs. If you do, you shall be heartely wellcome, was her answer. The Coll, brought the greyhounds, and beat with my Lord and his Cozin, untill his tyme served, and then left them, resolving to ride on, till he mett the King. And just as he came to Warneford townes end from old Winchester, hee mett Coll. Phelipps conducting the King. Being neere the houses, the Coll ridd by them, and tooke noe notice; went to an Inne in the towne, called for some beare, and tooke a pipe, and stayed soe long, that they were a topp old Win- chester before he overtooke them. When he had overtaken them and done his dutie to his Ma''«^ he directed them the safest way, and he would ride before, to find out my L*'. wee Wilmot. Which beeing done [they] all came together. The King and my Lord had some private discourse together. we When [they] came to Brawde Halfe-penny, a little above BBICHTON. 39 Hambledon, there the King spake to the Coll. Canst thou gett mee a lodging heereabouts. The CoH. told him, that his Cozin Hydes house aforesaid was taken up for him, and was very convenient, beeing neere and in the way ; But whether his Ma^<^ thought it to publick a place, or for what other rea- son, I knowe not, Hee said, knowe you noe other ? Yeas may it please your Ma*ie I know divers where for a night wee may be Wellcome, and heere is one who married my sister whose house stands privatly, and out of the way. Lett us goe thither, said the King. Whylest wee were consulting this affaire, Captaine Thomas Gounter the Coll* kinsman, and Swan, my Lord Willmots man, ridd scouting about Broade halfe-penny aforesaid, the Coll. conducting the King, my Lord Willmot, and Coll. Robert Philipps, to his sisters house, a private way, and the backside of Hambledon, it beeing but halfe a myle from the place aforesaid. Alighting att the doore, the Coll. lead them in, the Lord Willmot following, the King putting Collonel Robert PhilHpps before him. Thou lookest the most like a gentleman now. Comming in the Coll* sister mctt him ; Wee us [They] all saluted her. She brought [them] into a little parlour, where was a good fire. This was about candle light- ing. Wine, ale, and bisketts, were presently sett before us [them], with a very cheerfull countenance, as though the Kings presence had had some secret influence upon her, whoe suspected nothing lesse than that a King was present- we In an howers space [they] went to supper, beeing all sett promiscuously att a round table : and having halfe supt, in comes the Colls, sisters husband, Mr. Thom. Symones, whoe, as it plainly appeared, had beene in company that day. This is brave, said he ; A man can noe sooner be out of the way, but his house must be taken up with I knowe not whome ; and looking in the Colls, face. Is it you (said he) you are welcome ; and as your friends, soe they are all. Passing round the table, and viewing all the company, he said. These are all Hyds now ; but peeping in the king"'s face, said of him, Heer's a Roundhead ; and addressing his speech to 40 COAST OF SUSSEX. the Coll. said, I never knewe you keepe Roundheads com- pany before. To which the Coll. replyed, Tis noe matter, he is my friend, and I will assure you, noe dangerous man. Att which words, he clapt himselfe downe in a chaire downe next the king, and saying. Brother Roundhead, for his sake thou art wellcome; all the whyle beleeving the King to be so indeede, and making himselfe (whether for feare or in courtesie) to bee one too, as he could act it, the King all the whyle com- our plying with him to all [their] admirations. Now and then he would sweare, before he was aware; for which the King reprooved him, O deare brother, that is a scape ; swear not, I beseech you. Nevertheles in that humor bee was bee plyed us [them] hard with strong waters and beare, the King not knowing well how to avoid it; but as some body or other when hce lookt asyde, would take it out of his hand. " Supper being ended, it beeing tenn of the clock, the ColL be- ganne to beihinck himself*, that the King had ridd neerefourty miles that day, and was to undcrgoe a very hard journey tkenext, and how to gett the King out of his company and to bedd be could hardly devise. Yet the Coll. whispered his kinsman in the eare, saying*, I wonder how thou shouldst judge soe right ; hee is a roundhead indeede, and if we could gett him to bedd, the house were your owne, and we could be merry. Hee readily submitted, and the Coll. presently (leaving the Lord Wilmot behinde) conducted the King and Col. Rob. Philips (who lay in the King's chamber) to bedd. " The King slept well all night ; and by breakeof day, the Coll. putting up twoe neats tongues in his pocketts, which he thought they might neede by the way, they sett out, and began their journey. They v^ere noe sooner come to Arundell hill, as they rode close by the castle, but the govemour, Captaine Morley, mett them full butt, hunting. The Coll., the better • Interlined in a difforent hand. " Therefore thought it convenient to con- trive a way for liiiii softly leaving the company that soe he might betake him- self to his lodging, w'ch he effected alter this manner. Whispering hii» Bro' Air. Symonds sttid" BRIGHTON. 41 to avoid them, presently alighted ; and his company, " It ^'^^jj?? (as was agreed before) did as he did. And soe bap- they were pily they escajjed them. The King beeing told who downe." it was, replyed merrily, I did not like his starched mouchates. we we Soe [they] came to Howton where on horseback [they] made a stopp, att an alehouse, for some bread and drinck ; and there our us [their] neats tongues stood [them] in very good stead, and were heartily eaten. From thence being come to Bramber we [they] found the streetes full of soldiers, on both sides the y CoD. houses ; whoe unluckily and unknowne to [mee] were come thither the night before to guard ; but luckily (or rather by a very speciall Providence) were just then come from their guarde at Bramber-bridge, into the towne * for re- We freshment. [They] came ujxjn them unawares and were scene, we before they suspected any thing. My Lord Wilmot was [the CoU] ready to tume back, when I stept in and said: If we doe, wee are undone. Lett us goe on boldly, and wee shall not be [The Coll] the King suspected. He saith well, saith the king. I went before, hee followed, and soe passed through, without any hinderance. It was then betweene three and fower of the clock in the after- We noone. They went on ; but had not gone farre, but a new us us terror pursued them ; the same soldiers riding after [them] The CoU as fast as they could. Whereupon the king gave me a hem, I my me he slacked [his] pase, till they were come upp to [him] and by that tyme, the soldiers were come, whoe rudely passed by us we them (beeing in a narrow lane) soe that [they] could hardly our kecpe their saddles for them ; but passed by without any further hurt ; being some 30 or 40 in number. we ye Coll *' When they were come to Beeding, a little village where I had provided a treatment for the king (one Mr. Bagshall^s house,) He was earnest, that his Ma''*" should stay there a whyle, till He • Probably Stryniny is bore meiuit. — Ed. 42 COAST OF SUSSEX. had viewed the coast: Butmy Lord Willmot would by noemeanei for feare of those soldiers, but carried the king out of the road I we he knew not whither, Soe they parted ; they where they we thought safest, I to Brighteraston ; being agreed, they should send to me, when fixed any where, and ready. ** Being come to the said Brightemston, he found all clear there ; and the Inne (the George) free from all strangers, att that tyme. Having taken the best roome in thehouseandbe^x>ken my I myselfe [his] supper ; as [he] was entertaining [hisselfe] with a glass of wine; the king not finding accommodation elsewhere to his mind was come to the Inne ; then upp comes mine boast (one Smith by name) More guests saith he. He brought them into another roome ye Coll taking noe notice. It was not long but drawing towards the kings roome. He heard the kings voice, saying aloud to my Lord Wilmot; Here Mr. Barlow, I drinck to you. I knowe that name said I my mee he to his hoast then by him. I pray enquire and whether he were not a Major in the Kings Army. Which done he was found to bee the man whome I expected ; and presently in- vited as was likely to the fellowship of a glass of wine. From that He proceeded and made a motion to joyne companee, and my because his chaml>er was largest that they would make use (rf* we it. Which was accepted, and so they became one companie againe. *' At supper, the king was cheereful, not shewing the least signe of feare, or apprehension of any daunger ; neyther then, nor att any tyme during the whole course of this busines. Which is noe small wonder, considering, that the very thought of his ennemies, soe great, and soe many ; soe diligent, and soe much interested in his ruine; was enough, as long as he was within their reach, and as it were, in the very middest of them to have daunted the stoutest courage in the world. As if God had opened his eyes, as he did £lisha''s servant at his Masters request, and he had scene an heavenly hoast, round about him BRIGHTON. 43 us to guard him : which to [them] was invisible ; whoe therefore though much eucouraged by his undauntedness, and the as surance of soe good and glorious a cause ; yet were not without them secret terrours within ourselves and thought every minute a day, a month till they should see his sacred person out of that reach. Supper ended the king stood his back against the fyer, leaning over a chaire. Up comes mine hoast (upon some jealousie, I guess not any certain knowledge ;) but up comes him whoe called himselfe Gains runs to the king catcheth his hand and kissing it, said. It shall not be said but I have kissed the best mans hand in England. He had waited at us table at Supper, where the boateman alsoe sate with them and were then present. Whether he had feare, or heard any thing that could give him any occasion of suspicion, I knowe not. In very deede, the king had a hard taske, soe to carrie him- self in all things, that he might be in nothing like himselfe : Majestie being soe naturall unto him, that even when hee said nothing, did nothing, his very lookes, (if a man observed) were enough to betray him. It was admirable to see the king (as though he had not been concerned in these words, which might have sounded in the eares of another man as the sentance of death) turned about in silence, without any alteration of countenance or taking notice of what had been said. About a quarter of an hour after the king went to his chamber, where [the Coll] followed him and craved his pardon with earnest protestation that he was innocent, soe altogether ignorant of the cause ; how this had hapned. Peace peace Colonell, said the king, the fellow knowes mee, and I him. Hee was cme (whether soe or not, I know not but soe the king thought att that tyme) that belonged to the back staires to my Father; I hope he is an honest fellow. I ** After this the Coll began to treat with the boateman (Tettersfield by name) asking him in what readines he was. He answered he could not of that night, because for more sccuritic he had brought his vessel into a breake. 44 COAST OF SUSSEX. and the tyde had forsaken it ; soe that it was on ground. It is observable that all the whyle this busines had beene in agitation to this very tyme the wind had been con- trarie. The king then opening the wenddowe tooke notice, that the wind was turned and told the master of the Shipp. Whereupon because of the wind and a cleere night, the coll offered 10" more to the man to gett off that night. But that we could not bee. However they agreed, he should take in his we company that night. But it was a great business that they UB had in hand : and God would have them to knowe soe, both by the difficulties that offerd themselves, and by his help, he we we afforded to remoove them. When they thought they had agreed the boateman starts back and saith noe except the Coll would ensure the barke. Argue it they did with him, how unreasonable it was beeing so well paid, &c. but to no purpose soe that the Coll yeelded att last and 200" was his valuation which was agreed upon. But then as though he had beeue resolved to frustrate all by unreasonable demands, he required my 1 [his] bond. Att which mooved with much indignation [theColl] began to be as resolut as he ; saying among other things. There were more boates to bee had, besydes his ; if he would I not another should and made as though [he] would go to another. In this contest the king happily interposed. Hee saith right (said his Matie) a Gentlemans word especially before wittnesses, is as good as his bond. At last, the mans stomach came downe, and carrie them he would, whatever became of it ; and before he would bee taken, hee would run his boat under the water. Soe it was agreed that about tooe in the morning they should be aboard. The boateman in the and I meane tyme, went to provide for necessaries, [soe he] per- swaded the king to take some rest ; He did in his cloaths, and my L"* Willmot with him, till towards twoe of the morning. Then [the coll] called them up shewing them how the tyme BRIGHTON. i5 my went by [his] watch. Horses being ledd by the back way we towards the beach, [They] came to the boate, and found I my all readie. See [the Coll] tooke [his] leave craving his Mades pardon if any thing had happened through error, not want of will or loyaltie. How willingly I would have waited further my mee but for [his] family (being many) which would want [him] and [he] hoped his M*'^ would not, not doubting but in a very my little tyme he should bee where he would. [His] only request to his Ma^ie was that he would conceal his instruments ; wherein their preservation, was soe much concerned. His Msfi^ pro- I mised noebody should knowe. [The Coll] abided there keep- ing the horses in a readiness in case any thing unexpected had happened. **At8ofthe clock I saw them on sayleanditwastheaftemooM, before they were out of sight. The wind (O Providence) held very good till the next morning, to ten of the clock brought them to a place of Normandie called Fackham* some three miles from Havre de Grace. 15 0ct.Wenseday. They were no sooner landed but the wind turned and a violent stormedid arise in soe much that the boateman was forced to cutt his cable, lost his anchor fo save his boate for which he required of mee 8" and had it. The boate was back againe at Chichester by Friday to take his fraught" *' I was not gone out of the towne of Brighthemston twoe houres but soldiers came thither to search for a tall black man 6 foot and 4) inches high.'" " Unto thee O God doe wee give tkancks ; unto thee O God do tee give thancks ; for thy name is neere, thy wondrous workes declarer " Great deliverance giveth he to his king, and showeth mercy to hit anjunnted." NOTE BT TRANSOBIBEB. The above narrative has clearly been written originally in the first person ; the words in brackets, thus [ ] , being interpolations in another hand, substi- tuting the third person, viz. " he " or " the Coll." for " I." • So the worthy Colonel is pleased to spell FxKomp or FHhamp. 46 COAST OF SUSSEX. In Mr. Lee's History of Brighton, it is stated that the last house, in which the king stayed a short time before he came to the inn at Brighton, was that of a Mr. Mansell of Oving- dean, about three miles from Brighton, to the left of Rotting- dean, a very small village, situated in a valley, and scarcely ever visited. It is to be observed that the colonel leaves th«n at this point, whilst he goes to Brighton to make preparations. The embarkation is said to have been at Shoreham, but was doubtless somewhere between that place and Brighton. A few tri6ing particulars of Tattersall and his wife are also related, which are rather creditable to them : and some little anecdotes of the sailors during Charles the Second's voyage*. He also sums up his account with the following paragraph, which has been copied by several others : — " Yet, whoever candidly investigates the subsequent conduct of that vicious prince (Charles II.), will make no very high estimate of the obligationsof posterity to Captain Tattersall." — Certainly not, — IF — all the consequences of the measure depended on the per- sonal character of the immediate successor, for his vexatious and disappointing selfishness and shameless profligacy are totally indefensible. But, — if to have then been relieved from a state of anarchy, under opposing leaders and demagogues, so harassing, that it was said on the restoration *' the whole population was running about wild with joy, and the only wonder was, where those persons were who had done all the mischief;'" — if to have lived from that period to our own day, under a government confessedly the best adapted for England, if not for every other country (the change from James II. to William III. was only an episode) a limited Monarchy, in which a king is armed with sufficient power for the govern- ment and protection of all his subjects, yet strongly restrained from abusing it,^-constituting in himself a steady bulwarl^ against the encroachments of any faction, as well of aristocracy as of democracy ; — if to be now living under the reign of a mild and temperate monarch, with a quiet line of succession, * As, of one approaching rather intrusively and Bmoking hi* pipe in the monarch't face, and, being reproved by some one, answering—" A cat wuty look at a king," without the bUghtCbt ideit of ita i4>plicability. BRIGHTON. 47 instead of sufiering from some one of the hundred throes and convulsions of the terrible " beast with many heads ;*" — ^if all this be allowed to be an advantage, — and thej are comparatiTelj few, and their opinions such as we have little value for, who will deny it, — then posterity was under actual and substantial obligations to Tattersall*. We do not mean of course to attribute any extraordinaiy degree of merit to the man himself, as interest had doubtless a share in Jiis willingness to assist ; yet we believe him to have been an honest character. Mr. Horsefield has, in his Histoiy of Lewes, brought forward (we really think in this one in- stance, on several accounts, with bad taste), a long account <^ the persecutions of the non-conformists, in which Tattersall is blamed for having, to a certain degree, acted officially as con- stable of Brighton, in 1 670. We can only say we dislike all per- secution quite as much as ^lessrs. Horsefield or Lee, and have no inclination to defend it, or even palliate it. Still theie is one circumstance generally overlooked in the consideration of this period, viz. that the predominant party had been for a series of years quite as ill-treated by those they were then opposing : — (Vide Evelyn's Memoirs, ^-c.) — Thi^ we repeat, is no excuse, but it is a reason. Tattersall finding the restored king as culpably forgetful of him as of most other of his old friends, sailed in the identical • " Without doubt, liberty, the source of so many Tirtnes, the motber of «o many arts, the spring of public and private happiness, of tbe glory and die greatness of nations, is and ever will be tbe idol of liberal and manly minds and that system which is most &vourable to its development most necessarily obtain their approbation. But, fortunately, they need not have lecoorse to fine-spim theories for the principles, or to look to past ages or to distant countries for the practice of a free, and what may justly be called a republicm government. The constitution of England naturally comprises the exodlencies of all the ancient commonwealths, together with the advantages of the best forms of monarchy : though liable, as all human institutions are, to abuse and decay ; yet, like the works of Providence, it contains in itself the means of correction and the seeds of renovation. Such a system was considered as one of unattainable perfection by Cicero, and was pronounced by Tacitus, a visioa, fair, but transient. A scheme of policy that enchanted the sages of antiquity may surely content the patriot and the philosopher of modem days ; and tbe only wish of both must be, that in spite of royal encroachment and of popdiMt frenzy, it may last for evei."—JiUroductiom to Eustace^* ClattiaJ Tour m Jimfy. 48 COAST OF SUSSEX. bark up the Thames, and moored it off Whitehall. This public hint was not to be resisted : the brig was taken into the royal navy as a fifth-rate, under the title of the Royal EscapCy and himself appointed as captain, with an additional pension of 100/. per annum ; then, of course, equal to four times that sum in the present day. This pension was for a long dme paid to his descendants, but is now said to be disused. In 1683 a certificate from the parish officers of Brighton to Francis Beard, gent, for the cure of the king's evil (scrofula), is thought by Mr. Lee to argue that the utility of sea bathing in some complaints was even then begun to be acknowledged. At the conclusion of this century, Edward Joy, fisherman, left to the poor of Brighton 4Z. per ann., Thos. Humphrey 40*. do. and some one else a tenement in East-street. 1690. It was ordered by Justices at Lewes that, in con- sequence of the increase of poor-rates, by inroads of the sea, &c. &c. the following parishes in the neighbourhood ** wftidt Jiadfio poor qftJieir axn" should contribute to the relief of Brighton, yearly : — £ s. d. Pacham 17 16 7 Haughtoa 4 16 4 East Aldrington 6 1 H Blackington . 4 » 6 Ovingdean 6 10^ 38 17 5.— Lee. Having now brought down the history of Brighton to the 18th century, we have to offer the reader a few general and curious particulars relating either to the entire coast, or county of Sussex, which, though not principally applicable to Brighton, may as well come under this head as any other. HENRY III. " The Sheriff of Sussex wis commanded to buy Brawn and other Pro- visions for the King's Table;. — —" Rex vice Comid Sussex*, salutem. Praedpimustibi quod emi facias in balliva tua, contra instans festum Natalia Domini, x braones, i, conicukia, o BBItiHTON. 49 perdices et d gallinas et omnia predicta mitti facias UFq' Westmon: iu quod sint ibi die luns proxima ante natale Domini. T. R. apod Read- ing, xr die Decembris."— 26 II. 3,—Madox. MSS. Bnrrell. " The king to the sheriff of Sussex, Health. We order you that you cause to be bought in your bailiwick against the instant Feast of the Nativdty of our Lord, 10 brawns, with the heads, 10 peacocks, SO rabbits, 100 partridges, and 500 hens ; and that you cause all the aforesaid to be sent as far as AV^estminster ; so that they may be there on the next Monday before the Nativity of our Lord.— The king holding his court (tenente rege) at Reading, the 1 1th day of December."— JSi " Rex baronibus. Allocate ddem Nicolao (de Wauney) vice comiti Suir*, Sussex, in exitibus eorundem comitatuum, vi' xii' quos posuit postpnt- ceptum nostrum, in braonibus, ovis, ducis, gallinis, pullis, et cuniculis empds adopus nostrum in balliva sua, nobis missis contra festimi S. fiduardL" — 35 H. \\\.—Madox. MSS. BurrelL " The king to his barons. Allot ye to the same Nicholas (de Wauney) sheriff of Surrey and Sussex, in the outgoings of the same counties, 6 pounds 12 shillings, which he has laid out according to our command, in brawns, ^gs, ducks *, hens, pullets, and rabbits, for our use, in his bail wick, sent, to us against the feast of St. Edward."— £. 1649 18,771 4 C Next half year . 14,207 14 C 18,771 4 6> . ^ ... ... 18 771 4 6 ^ ^"^ ^ aboat 2«. 6dL in the pound land tax. :>7,542 9 " N. B. This is the account of \Villiam Alcock, receiver genend of the monthly assessments for the county of Sussex, these sums came to his hands ; it is possible there might be some deficiencies, and he obserres that tlie salaries of the high coUectors were deducted, and never came to his hands. So probably part of the year 1649 was equal almost to three shillings in the pound."— ^lirr*-// MSS. Sir W. R has overlooked the monthly assessment specified above, which is at a mufJi higher rate, nearly 60,000A per Mxaaxm.—Ed. * Demi-lance, an officer so called. Iligb-borses, it may be presumed, were tlie heavy cavalry who used Flemish horses. To " tide the great borse" wb« a term for merely learning to ride See Memmirt of Lord Herbert tf Cherhmru, —Ed. BRIGHTON. 63 VOLUNTEERS. Extract from the Ltttes Jommal, 1779. " Proceetlings of a Meeting of the county of Sussex, helJ Mi tlie Town Hal], in Lewes, on Thoisday, the 26th of Ai^ust, 1779, in pniaianoe of an advertisement from the High Sheriff. " It was then moved, and unanimously agreed to, ' that an offer be made to the King, to raise 24 companies in the county of Sussex, on the following plan, viz: that the number of companies, so to be formed, be not less than twenty-four ; each company to consist of one captain, one lieatenant, and one ensign, commissioned by his Majesty (having the same qnalific&- lions as are required for the militia), and of three sergeants, three corporals, two drummers, and sixty private men, at the least. £ X Richmond 500 James Peachey 100 r^remont . 100 H. Fetboston 100 Gage 100 George Medley 50 Abergavenny 100 50 Pdham 100 I. Bridge 50 Geo. Hen. I.ennox 50 And a list of others at 20L or 10/. SOBSCRIBERS SINCE THE MEETDtO. £ £ Aslibumham . 200 John Pdham . M George Germain 1 GO Godfrey Webster . 50 W. G. Hamilton 100 And others at 20/1 or lOL—Burrdl MSS. We have seen that at the beginning of the 1 7th century the state of Brighton was flourishing, and its population consider- able ; the latter is stated to have included 600 families, which at the usual estimate of five persons to each, gives 3000 in- habitants : we have also found that towards the middle and conclusion of this century it had suffered considerable reverses, from disturbance given to its trade, and from attacks of the sea; and we conclude that at the epoch of 1700 the popula- tion was much diminished. Still greater misfortunes are now to be related. On Sunday, 27th Dec. 1703, a terrible tempest commenced at midnight and lasted during eight hours. Some houses were totally destroyed, many others unroofed, and tlie church leadb blown up ; the town, it is said, looked Hke a place 54 COAST OF SUSSEX. lx>mbarclctl by the enemy. Great anxiety was felt by the in- habitants for their relations and friends, who were on the sea, with much of their property. Many ketches were lost, with all or the majority of their crews, and several mariners be- longing to the town perished in the Queen's ships. One man, from a vessel wrecked between the Downs and North Yarmouth, supported himself for three days on a mast, and was at length rescued. — The Storm^ published by G. Saw- bridge, Lond. 1704. In 1705, occurred a second storm not less awfiil in its effects ; beginning at 1 o'clock in the morning, and manifest- ing its greatest fury from 3 till 8. Many houses were again destroyed, and the church was unroofed. Several vessels belong- ing to the town were stranded near Portsmouth, and others on the coast of Newcastle. The extent of the storm is proved by the latter circumstance. The remaining houses, under the cliff, were now swept away, and " the Block-house, which once stood in the middle of the town"" (Dr. Relhan denies this), " now formed its southern extremity." — Lee, The Gates and Gun Garden were d^ly, gradually, washed away. The neighbouring parishes, which had been taxed for the relief of Brighton, were found in the year 1708 to have evaded the assessment, by making paupers of their own. The justices adopted the expedient of taxing the whole of the three Eastern Rapes of the county three half-pence in the pound, to be applied in aid of this impoverished place ; but much opposition and outcry was raised against it, and the magistrates, finding their policy, or humanity, had exceeded their legal powers, were obliged to abandon the scheme. — Lee. The sea continued to encroach with alarming rapidity on the cliff itself, having damaged all beneath it. The necessity of erecting groins was now felt to be indespensable to the existence of the town. A brief was accordingly obtained, to help out their means, in 1727, and produced 1700iL, rather a large sura for that mode and time, and in its effect showing the valuable utility of seasonable charity, for without this help iu time of need, the town might never have emerged from its BBIGHTOK. HS ruins. In the same year 10 guineas were expended in finishing the " public well." In 1733 " the almshouses'" were sold for 17/. and a work-house built on the site. — lb. In 1736 the f>oor's rates were eig'ht pence in the pound on the rack rent, which was then considered " an intolerable burthen." — lb. About the year 1700, small sums were collected at the Church on the three following occasions: — *' The relief of poor captives in Turkey ; " for " The distressed inhabitants of the Principality of Orange;" and for " The sufferers by fire ia Inniskiileu." — lb. The Author of a Tour through Great Britain, 1724, gives us a very melancholy picture of the reverses under which Brighton was then languishing. " From this town, [Lewes] following still the range of the South Downs, west, we ride in view of the sea, on a fine carpet ground, for about twelve miles, to Bright Helmston, commonly called Bredhemston, a poor fishing town, old built, and on the very edge of the sea. Here, again, as I mentioned at Folkstone and Dover, the fishermen having large barks, go away to Yarmouth, on the coast of Norfolk, to the fishing fair there, and hire them- selves for the season to catch herrings for the merchants ; and they tell as, that these make a very good business of it. The sea is very unkind to this town, and has, by its continued encroachments, so gained upon them, that in a httle time more they might reasonably expect it would eat up the whole town, above one hundred houses having been devoured by the water in a few years past ; they are now obUged to get a brief granted them, to b^ money all over England, to raise banks against the water; the expense of which, the brief expressly says, will be Eight Thousand Poundt; whidi, if one were to look on the town, would seem to be more than all the houses in it are worth." A letter from the Rev. W. Clarke, rector of Buxted (who was grandfather to the celebrated and eloquent traveller), to Mr. Bowyer, dated July 22, 1736, is without these dark tidings, and seems to imply that the place bad emerged from a state of extreme poverty, and was approaching one of tran- quil mediocrity. The letter was published in the Grentleman's Magazine, 1810. « We are now sunning ourselves upon the beach at Brighthehnstone, and observing what a tempting figure this island must have made in the eyes of those gentlemen who were please*! to civilize and subdue us. The place is really pleasant ; 1 liavc seen noUting in its way outdoes it ; audi a 56 COAST OF SUSSEX. tract of sea ; sucii regions of com, and such an extent of fine carpet, thst give your eye the command of it alL But then the mischief is, that we have Utile conversation beside the clamor nau/icim, which is here a sort of treble to the plashing of the waves against the cliffs. My morning business is bathing in the sea, and then buying fish ; the evening in riding out for air, viewing the remains of old Saxon camps, and counting the ships in the road, and the boats that are trawling. Sometimes we give the imagination l.'ave to expatiate a little: — fancy that you are coming down, and that we inend, next week- to dine one day at Dieppe, in Normandy; the price is already fixed, and the wine and lotlging there tolerably good. But, though we build these castles in the air, I assiu-e you we live here under ground almost. I fancy the architects here actually take the altitude of the inhabitants, and lose not an inch between the head and the ceiling, and then dropping a step or two below the surface, the second story is finished, something under 12 feet. I suppose this was a necessary precaution against stonns, that a man should not be blown out of his bed into New England, Barbary, or God knows where. But as the lodgings are low, they are cheap : we have two parlours, two bed chambers, pantry, &c. for 5*. per week : and if you really will come down, you need not fear a bed of proper dimensions ; and then the coast is safe, the cannons all covered with rust and grass : the ships moored — no enemy apprehended — ♦ Nee tela timeres Gallica, necPictanxtremeres, nee littore toto Prospiceres dubiis venturum Saxona ventis.' " Our final extract, descriptive of this town in the first half of the last century, is derived from the " Magna Britannia," pub- lished, we believe, for we have not the date at hand to refer to, about the year 1740. " It is an indifferent large and populous town, chiefly inhabited by fishermen, and having a good market weekly on Thursday, and fair yearly on I'he situation is pleasant and generally accounted healthfull ; for though bounded on the north with the Brittish (Jhannell, yet it is encompassetl on the other parts with large com fields and fruitfuU hills, which feed great flocks of sheep, bearing plenty of wool, which is thought by some the best in England. The state of the fortifica- tions and town is this: there is a tradition that Queen EUzabeth thought this town worthy of her regard, and built four strong gates of free stone, three of which were arched twelve or thirteen feet high ; but the East gate was the most notable, to which she joyned a wall fourteen or sixteen feet high, extending itself about four hundred feet to the westward. There is also another wall, three feet thick, facing the sea, and in it are many port-holes for cannon. About two hundred and fifty feet to the west end of this wafl stands the Town Hall, on the east side of which is the market-house: it is a very strong edifice, in the form of a circumference, built with stone, seven or eight feet thick, and about eighteen feet high, and fifty in the diameter. The Hall is about thirty feet broad, and under it is a dungeon ; BBICHTOM. - 57 it faces the sea, and in its walls are several arched rooms, where the magazines are kept Before it, next the sea, is the Gun Garden, capacious enough for four cannon. This Hall stands in the middle front of the town, and on the roof is a turret and clock. The town contains seven streets, and as many laties, but the most spacious is deroored by the ocean. " About ninety years ago this town was a very considerable place for fishing, and one of the principal towns of the county, containing near six hundred families ; but ance the civil warrs it hath decayed much, for want of a free fishery, and by their ships being often taken by the enemy. The breaking in of the sea has, within these forty years, laid waste above one hundred and thirty tenements, which loss is computed about Forty Thousand Pounds ; and if speedy care is not taken to stop the encroadK^ ments, the town will probably in a few years be utterly depopulated, the inhabitants being already diminished one-third, and many of those who remain are very poor, so that the rates for their relief are at the rack-rent of eight pence in the pound, there being few charities for their support. One of Mr. Barnard Hilton of 16/. per ann. with other small Bendactions, which make it amount to 20/. " The church is a vicarage, but meanly endowed- The vicar claims the old episcopal custom of a penny per head, (commonly called smoak money, or a garden penny) as also he requires, as his due, a quarter of a share out of all fishing vessels. " The parsonage ty thes arc about 1 00/. per annum, but are in the hands of an impropriator, who allows the vicar too benefit from them, by which means his maintenance is very small; and therefore the neighbouring gentlemen have augmented by a subscription of 50/. per annum, on condi- tion he shall instruct fifty poor boys of the town in reading and writing*. The church stands about forty rods from the town, at a little distance from the sea. There was formeily another church, near the middle of the town, which is said to have been burnt by the Frendu" " Jan. 1748-9- By reason of extraordinary high tides, the sea broke in at Brighthelmstone, washed away part of the Block House, and the farm lands called Salts, and did con- siderable damage to the lands adjacent-"" — BurreU MSS. About the year 1750, visitants began annually to frequent this spot, but lodging-houses had not yet been put in re- quisition, the only accommodation was a few indifferent inns; their diversions were princif>ally hunting, horse-racing occa- sionally only, and water excursions. The Wick spring was then first enclosed by Dr. Russell. — Lm. In 1761, a battery of twelve 24-pounder8, with an arched * This vicarage is now, including the fees of the enormous population, currently estimated at 1200/. per annum. 58 COAST or 8USSXX. room under it for ammunition, was erected, on the site of tlie "east gate," on the 1 7th of Nov. 1786. This battery, not duly protected by a groin, was undermined by the sea, and fell ; 1 7 barrels of powder were in the lower room, and it was considered as a wonderful and providential escape that they did not explode from the concussion. — Lce^ The town, which, in 1766, is said to have become a very considerable one, still consisted of six streets only, all of which were situated westward of the Steyne. The population does not appear to have increased rapidly. The number of settled residents in 1780 was only 3600 ; 1800 were then inoculated, of whom only 34 died. In 1794, the population was 5669; 1900 were at this time inoculated from the town, and 213 from the neighbourhood, and the deaths were only 50. — Lu. A Dr. Awsita, in the year 1768, erected the first set of baths, at the pool between the Steyne and the sea. — Ih. We close our Ancient History of Brighton, about the year 1770, with a brief allusion to the celebrated Dr. RnssELX. Through his fortunate and philanthropic advocacy and con- firmation of the grand practice of sea bathing, not only is Brighton indebted for all its unexampled prosperity, which it is hof)ed it will both preserve and merit, — or secure the former contingency by a public-spirited and generous attention to the latter quality ^ — but the whole land of Britain is under obligations public and private, which will nolt cease with the revolutions and generations of succeeding time. To his honour the following distich was composed, which ought to have been engraved in "enduring brass" in the most conspicuous situa- tion in Brighton, nor less to live in the grateful recollections of all its inhabitants. CLARA, PER OMNB MWU, RV8BEIXJ PAMA MAHEBIT, DVM BETINET TIRES UNDA MARINA SVAS. " Bright throu^ all ages RnsseH's fame shall tower. Whilst the sea-wave retains its h<^Hiig power.' BBIGUTOK. 69 MODERN HISTORY. Chance has thrown in our way, without any trouble, but with some expense, and as we conceive, not without some good fortune, a curious and probably Mni^Mf collection of Newspaper jExtraclSf relative to Brighton, and Sussex in general, but more particularly the former, from the year 1770 to 1810, regularly arranged, in two thick quarto volumes. At the first named period, the Lewes Journal had been established, but the articles in question with a very few exceptions, are not derived from this source, but from a regular series of diffuse correspondence in the London papers, much of which was ad- dressed to the Morning Herald. The perusal is exceedingly amusing; it introduces us, in the mind's eye, to the domestic and local details of a past, and differently circumstanced genera> tion : and amongst other topics of great interest, developes the })rogressive increase and improvement of Brighton, Worthing, £astbourne, and some other places, and unfolds the spirit- stirring details of important military preparations, and do- mestic anxieties, patriotism, and generous hospitality, during the long war with the then sanguinarily revolutionary powers of France. Several great characters are also brought on the scene ; and we doubt not that many visitors of Brighton (to say nothing of the highest of all) may be not unpleasantly de- tained for a short time by our limited extracts, not exceeding a fiftieth part, from this copious repository. On their recepdoa now, will def>end their re-insertion in a future edition ; that is, if the public are disposed to look with more favour on this little work after its publication than they have previously done. Should any reader be disposed to complain of their length, we beg him to observe, that no other subject has been unduly abridged to make way for tbem. We are not called upon to institute any comparison between the manners and customs of that ag;e and the present ; and we have endeavoured to include such varied and miscellaneous articles as may suit the taste or curiosity of all parties ; every thing inconsistent with decorum we have suppressed. If we may be allowed to express our opinion of the state of Brighton at 60 COAST OF SUSSEX. that time, we think, that, whilst it was much inferior in size and magnificence, it was more social and happy than at present. The visitors appear to have associated with much freedom, and without any exclusiveness ; and we read of no internal discords among the inhabitants — such as now (we earnestly beg not to be deemed uncharitable) threaten, if not checked by good sense and charity, to seriously affect its best interests. " Discordia res maxima dilabuntur." On the other hand, there was more external dissipation, per- haps vice. Whether, upon the whole, the age has materially gained in intrinsic worth is another question; but it is no question that it has a Court, in which virtue and goodness are encouraged and fostered. One observation more, only, forces itself upon us. There were at least then no " Crockfords," or similar dens of gilded iniquity, not unfitly called by an infernal name, as being the causes and harbingers of misery, ruin, and untimely death ; destructive to domestic happiness, health, and prosperity — to body and soul *. Neither have we taken upon ourselves the office of panegyrists or apologists of the late King, the second founder of Brighton, after Dr. Russell, to whom (if for this alone) the inhabitants owe a debt of gratitude, which if they have not expressed they at least ought to have done so. Some characteristic traits, however, will be found here, which gave us much pleasure on the perusal, and we leave them to speak for themselves. We set out with a determination of speaking on all subjects, " with- out fear or favour," and we really trust the candid reader will not accuse us of having deviated from iL The first journey of the Prince of Wales to Brighton, on a visit to his uncle, the Duke of Cumberland, then residing at Grove House, on the Cliff near the Steyne, took place in the year 1782. The town and Steyne were illuminated, and fire- works exhibited in front of Grove House, &c. &c. • During the present month, November, 18.32, has occurred the suicide of a respectable party in Regent Street, coiifi'ssedly brought on by ruin at one of these arrursed II "s ; and such events arc currently reported in London to Ix-' by no mcanb infrequent. UEKJHTON, 61 BRIGHTON 1761. « Brighthelmstone, June 1.— Arrived here, Lord Abergavenny, Lord Bruce, Mr. and Lady Jane Evelyn, Lady Sophia Egerton," (and a long list of names of some rank.) 1771. Extract of a Letter from Briirhthelmstone , dated June 3.—" From the number of houses already taken, we expect to Lave a fuller season than was ever known here. Provisions are risen ; and mutton and veal are at four-pence halfpenny the pound. Beef and lamb atfive-pence. Fresh butter is sold at eight-pence the pound. We have likewise plenty of mackard at two-pence apiece. Garden stuff is to be had tolerably reasonable. Our balls begin next week. A fishing boat was overset lately in a squall of wind, and of the two hands on board, one was saved, and the other lost, who left a widow and two children, she big with the third ; the company has generously opened a subscription for this helpless family." 1775. Extract of a Letter from Lewes, Feb. 6.—" On Tuesday last (the wind blowing hard at south) was a prodigious high tide along our coast, whereby damages, to the amount of some thousand pounds, are sustained- At Newhaven, Mr. Martin had several stacks of com five and six feet under water. At Brighthelmstone, part of the battery is washed away, and the water was so high there, that we hear it run in at the top of a chimney of a house that stood near the battery. At Shoreham, and further westward, many fields sown with grain are under water ; in short, the damage done is inconceivable." Brighton, June 25.—" Arrived here the Duke and Duchess of Rich- mond, Duke and Duchess of Marlborough, Caroline and Eliza Spen- cer," &c. &c (a very long list of names.) It will be observed, that it is here written Brighton. 1782. Extract of a Letter from Brighthelmstone, Aug. 12.—" About seven o'clock yesterday morning, I was awaked by the firing of guns, which made me rise sooner than I should otherwise have done, and upon going to the beach, was informed that a French privateer, of sixteen or eighteen guns, and about one hundred and thirty men, had just taken a collier close to the sliore. After having turned tlie collier's men in their own boat on shore (they only wanting the vessel) the Frenchmen put on board the collier from the above privateer, ten stout fellows, and then sailed away with their prize. This being observed from the ramparts, signal was given to a cutter, which happened luckily to be near, who directly made sail after the collier, and in about an hour and a htJf, retook her, and sent the Frenchmen on shore." • Kxtructs relating to other places will be found under their respective heads. 62 COAST OF SDSSKX. Extract of a Letter from Brighthelmstone, dated Friday noon, — " We are all alive here, anxiously waiting the arrival of the Duke and Ducheas of Cumberland, who are expected here this evening, four houses being taken for them and their suite. The Steine is to be lighted. We are very full; no lodgings to be had for love or money. Lord and Lady Stowell, the Duke and Duchess of Manchester, Lord and Lady Parker, Lady Dartrey, Lady Trafford and daughter, and the Baron and Baroness Nolken, are here. The bells were set a ringing for the arrival of Lord and Lady Fitzwilliam, who came in last night. Our master of the ceremonies' ball is fixed for Friday next, which is expected to be onocHnmonly crowded." 1784. Equestrian Feat. — "Lewes, August 2. — ^At seven o'clock on Monday morning last, the Prince of Wales mounted his horse at Brighthelmstone, and rode to and from London that day. His Royal Highness went by the way of Cuckfield, and was only ten hours on the road, being four and a half going, and five and a half retuming." 1785. Extract of a Letter from Lewes, Sept. 12. — " The violence of the wind on Tuesday last occasioned the highest tide that has been known on this coast for a great number of years. At Brighthelmstone, the fishermen were put to the greatest difficulty in saving their boats, to effect which, many were under the necessity of hauling them up into the town, and others of lashing them to the railing on the bank ; some few, however, that could not be secured, were dashed to pieces : had the storm happened in the night-time, the whole must have shared the same fate." Extract of a Letter from Brighthelmstone, dated September 26. — " A gentleman a few days ago was bathing a little below the machines, and being very calm, he imprudently ventured further into the sea than what is customary. He had not been long diverting himself in the water, before he heard a noise, and discovered the fins of a fish above the surface of the water, which he soon perceived approach him very fast. Alarmed at this, he hastened out of the water, and had scarcely reached the shore, when a large tiger shark plunged after him with that violence, that it forced itself entirely out of the water on dry land. The shark, thus oat of its element, had no power of retreating ; and the geutleman who provi- dentially escaped, recovering from his fright, collected a number of people, who with hatchets attacked this ferocious creature and killed it. On open- ing its stomach, the entire head of a man was found in it, no otherwise altered than being very soft and pappy, and the flesh and scalp entirely se- parating from the bone on touching it. The stomach was half an inch thick, and the shark was twelve feet in length from iu head to its tail*.* Brighthelmstone, Sept. 3.—" At a general meeting of the suhecribera to the rooms, held at the Castle this day, agreeably to the public notice, it was then unanimously resolved, that all persons who have their admission into • N.B. To prevent unnecessary alarm, we may as well specify, that nothing of the kind has been beard of tince. BBIGHTOK. 63 the rooms during the season, that every non-subscriber do pay as nnder: — Monday and ^^ednesday, the ladies 3^. 6d., the gentlemen 4t. 6d. each. Tuesday, ^V''ednesdaT, Friday, and Saturday, one shilling for every non- subscriber. N. B. Children under twelve years of age are not understood to be included in this last regiilation. By order of the subeczibeTS of die rooms— WuxjjLjt Wade, Master of the Cerenumies." 1786. " The design of erecting a new theatre at Brighton is dropped; and if die manag«' of the present theatre endeavours to be a little more of the Jar, and not so much of the bear^ he may find it hereafter to his advantage." 1788. Br^hton Theatre. — " The bill for licensing anew the theatre there was read a third tim^ OMnmitted, and ordered to be carried up to the Larda.** Letces, Dec. 29. — ** Last Monday, we are told, the sand at Brighthdmstone, at neap-tide, was covered with a most beautiful sheet of ice, and sudi as would have afibrded excellent diversion to skaiters, had there been any there to have enjoyed it ; otherwise, we think, they would have embraced the opportunity of exhibiting in a sccaie so pleasing and novd as most have appeared, that of skaiting on the skirts of the ocean." 1789. The Prince's Birth-day.—" The ball and supper were given at the Casde tavern by the Dukes of York and Clarence, and the cards of invitation ex- tending to Lewes, as well as the immediate neighbourhood, the assenably was numerous and highly genteeL " A very military and striking procession was presented by the javelin men, headed by Sir Ferdinando Poole, the sheriff. This order, whidi smacks so truly of feudal times, consists of the chief tradesmen of Lewes^ from whence they proceeded to pay their respects to the prince. Their imiform is a superfine blue coat, bufi* waistcoat, and buckskin breeches, with other appendages, the effect of which was striking. Their swords were sustained by blue belts over the shoulder with crested plates. Their horses had blue and buff* girths and breast-plates^ and the head-dresses of the horses were also of corresponding decoration. The trumpeters, which preceded the procession, were dressed at the expense of Sir F. Pocde; their coats were buS^ with blue collars and cuffs, and blue waistcoats: they had silk banners to their trunipets, with heraldic bearings. The or- dering of this procession depended in a considerable d^;ree on Colonel Pelham ; and it was observable that blue and buff' cockades were assumed by all the country. Upwards of 500 people dined at the Castle ; and an ox was roasted and distributed to the populace with plenteous supplies of strong beer. A very brilliant firework was played off", and a general illa- mination exhibited. — Brighton never was so joyous or gay befwe." " Last Thursday night, a large portion of what is caUed the bank, between the sea and the Gun Inn, Brighton, suddenly gave way, and fdl on the beach, which has occasioned the road there to be fenced off^ to prevent ao« cidents, until it can be repaired." — Date hit. M rOAST OF SUSSEX. 1792w September 13. — " We are still occupied here, as no doubt every where else, with the devdopement of French affairs. The influx of emigrants b^ns to lessen, partly because the majority of the clergy are already come over, and because at Dieppe they have put a stop to our packets receiving them, they themselves fitting out their own vessels for the purpose. The nib- scription for the rehef of the priests filled very fast, and was disposed of, by the committee appointed for that purpose, in reheving their present necessities and providing them the means of pursuing thai way up to the capitaL" September 20. — " This morning one of the packets landed five persons of distinction, one of whom was the Archbishop of Aix ; the others were pCT- sons of condition, but cannot learn their names. They hired the packet for themselves only. " This day another packet brought in twenty-six emigrants j and, at ten o'clock tliis morning, came over, in an open boat. Count Bridges, who was one of the household to the King of France, and in confinement with him, but found means to escape ; after which he was concealed, tiD an oppiH'- tunity offered to convey him to this place, for which he paid a large earn. " By order of the Duke of York, an ox is this day roasted whole ; — ^wbile I write, it is distributing among the populace, together with ten barrels of strong beer, which will probably cause some broken pates en night.' Monday. — " This morning, about twelve o'clock, the Duchess of York set out for town. At her departure, great crowds collected before the Pavilion, collected by cxiriosity to behold ; and her highness's behaviour was such as impressed them strongly with tlie sense of her affabihly and condescen- sion. Notwithstanding the unfavourable state of the weather, the royd trio rode out every day, attended by several of the nobility and gentry." Au^st 29. — " The Marchioness de Beaule is arrived at this place, in an open boat, for which she paid two hundred guineas at Dieppe. ^Vhat adds to the distressing situation of this lady, she was under the necessity of appearing in the uniform of a sailor, and as such assisted the men on board during the whole passage, not only to disguise herself, but in order to bring with her undiscoveretl a favourite female, whom it is confidently said, she conveyed on board in a trunk, in which holes were bored to give her air. " The marchioness was received, on coming on shore, by his highness the Prince of \Yales, with Mrs. Fitzherbert and Miss Isabella Pigot The prince, with his usual affabihty, escorted the fair fugitive to 1^1 Clennoot's, where tea was provided for the prince and twenty of his friends." • • • • • " During the whole time, she was obliged to appear in male and mean attire. She once offered herself to a coUier to work her passage as a sailor, but was refused ; at length, however, urged by despair, and disclosing her real situation to the captain of one of the packets, he, with much humanity, contrived to bring her off, by concealing her under a coil of cable upon the deck (where she was, incredible as it may seem, obliged to lie for four- BRIGHTON. 65 teen hours), and was landed safe here yesterday, exhausted with the fatigue and terrors she had undergone*. " The prince, with that humanity and gallantry that so invariably distin- guish him, has paid every attention to this amiable stranger. She this day rode out with Mrs. Fitzherbert. " Another lady, whose name we have not learned, arrived also yesterday in an open boat, choosing rather to risk almost certain destruction by the sea (for it blew a hurricane all day) than to be exposed to the insults and cruelties of the worse than savages she has left bdund." 1792. " The emigrants still continue flocking over as fast as they can getaway ; but great apprehensions are entertained by them for numbers left behind; who unable, though willing to escape from their enemies, and the time limited by the assembly for their departure being expired, it is expected they will fall victims to the savage and unrelenting fury of their persecutoTB." " Aug-. 25. — This morning their Royal Highnesses the Duke and Duchess of York took an airing on foot, and spent the greater part of the day in viewing the new but/dings and the cricket ground. In the evening, their royal highnesses honoured the theatre with their presence." "Lewes, Oct. 22. — Last Wednesday morning were landed at Black Rock near Shoreham, from the Prince of Wales Packet, Captain Burton, thirty^ seven nuns. They were all from one convent, and most of them elderly ladies. None younger than forty. They were habited as nuns, and are all going to Brussels, where a convent is prepared for them. " The packet lay some time off Brighton with a view to land them there, but the roughness of the sea prevented it; and it was no sooner known that they were to land at or near Shoreham, than almost every carriage in Brighton repaired thither to be present at their debarkation, and to assist in conveying them to Brighton, where every accommodation and every attention was shown to them. They had plenty of money. Their passage was not favourable, having been two days at i 1793. " Brighthelmstone Camp. — The Duke of Clarence, it is said, wishes much to have the royal Surrey raiment of militia. His royal highness is so partial to them, that he has made them a present of a r^imental colours, that is to cost 120 guineas — it is now embroidering." We insert the following, both because it exhibits much good sense and feeling, and also to express our congratulation on the approaching extinction, great mitigation, or commuta- tion, — with the concurrence, we feel assured, of our benevolent monarch, — of the terrible and too Draconic code of military and naval punishment, which has no antiquity to plead in its * We rather think this refers to another lady, but something is here lost — Eo. r 66 COAST OF SUSSEX. behalf, and has been ofien, as we both read and know, almost' as painful to the feelings of the officers to inflict, as the men to suffer. This is an unmixed question, on which two opinions can scarcely exist ; it is. indeed, a blessed ** reform.'" " Camp, near Briffhton, Oct. 4. — Late last night orders were issued by the Duke of Riclunond, that the sentence of the court-martial should not be executed on the soldier of the North Devon, till nine this morning ; this delay was owing to the desire of the duke, to deUberate_ on a petition pre- sented to him at the request of the soldiers, on behalf of their unfortunate comrade ; it was signed by the officers and non-commissioned officers of the corps. The petition was laid before the duke by their major. Sir Thomas Ackland, who was indefatigable in his endeavours to give it effect. " At nine this morning the piquets of the whole line, and the North Devon regiment, formed a square six deep. The Duke of Richmond was present; and after the court-martial had been read, his grace addressed the soldiers, and read to them the petition which he had received from their major. He then said, that the answer he meant to give to the petition, he would read to them. He began by making several judicious reflections on the bad effects of want of subordination in soldiers; reprobated, in strong terms, the summary manner in which, in many instances, the soldiers in camp had inflicted punishments on those who they thought had offended them. 'But,' added his grace, 'if it were possible to aggravate sudi unmilitary proceedings, it must be in the present instance, where an un- fortunate—unprotected female was the object of vengeance. It was dis- graceful both to their characters as soldiers, and as men. It had been alleged, that this wretched woman was a prostitute ; but recollect, soldiers, whether the crime for which you punished her, you had not been the means of leading her into.' Having insisted on this, in a style that affected the feeling of the soldiers in a very sensible manner, and after paying the regiment some handsome coinphments on their good behaviour last war, &c. he added, ' that though the prisoner was no more guilty that day, than several soldiers of every other regiment in the line, yet it was not to be understood that for that reason, he was to escape punishment, &c' After having shown this in a strong point of view, and informed the soldiers of their duty to their officers, he then came to the subject of the petition itself, which, he said, 'did honour to the sensibihty of the men who felt so severely for the credit of the r^ment, in having one of their comrades tried by a Une court-martial, and in their promises of avoiding every cause of censure from hence forward. He was happy in saying, that a petition drawn up in so soldier-Uke, manly, and modest a style, met his warmest approbation, and gave him an opportunity of indulging his own feelings, ever averse to punishment, by remitting the whole sentence of the court-martiaL' " The duke's speech made a sensible impression not only on the minds of those to whom it was immediately addressed, but on the mixed crowd of soldiers of the other regiments who were present. " As soon as the piquets were ordered away. Sir Thomas Ackland seized the moment of paying the duke an elegant compliment, by requesting his permission to have his grace's speech printed, at the expense of the North BRIGHTON. 67 I^on regiment The duke seemed highly sensible of the compliment, said, that it should to-morrow be copied into the diSerent orderly bo(du, but that he did not wish it to be printed." "Brighton Camp, Aug. 15. — On Monday, at three in the morning, we struck our tents on Ashdown Forest, marched at five, and at half past eleven reached Chely Common. Tuesrd, lift thou up the light of thy countenance upon us. Thou hast pat gladness in my heart, more than in the time that their com and their vine increased.' The chapel was extremely crowded. The Bishop of St Asaph, Judge Graham, and many of the most distinguished of the nobility, at- tended divine service. Captain Bloomfield was in the Prince's pew." 1803. " At noon, yesterday, the corps of Sea Fendbles were drawn np on die battery to discharge sixteen rounds of forty-two pound shots, at a small boat, moored about half a league from the shore, with the French jack at 74 COAST OF SUSSEX. the mast head. The first shot was apparently within a jard of the object ; the second was somewhat closer ; the third raked it fore and aA, carryii^ away its upper streak, and bringing its broadside to face the battery, when the fourth shot literally cat it asunder, and sent the disjointed bark to the bottom. Such is the singular proficiency of this corps in their discipfinc^ and such will be the fate of the Corsican's fiat bottoms, should thej hare the temerity to appear within gun-shot in this quarter. Sir Edmand Nagle, Captain Sproule, and several military officers, were on the fort, while groups of British belles were drawn up as spectators on the di^ who loudly applauded the successful practice of the day, whidi (their object of attack having so satisfactorily disappeared) terminated on the fourth round, excepting that one gim was aft^wards discharged, properly elevated, to ascertain how far, in case of necessity, it would throw a shot, and which, moderately speaking, struck not the water within the distance of a league.' " In consequoice of the prediction of the French prophet, now thing more than two centuries ago, bat which, within this last week, has been the current topic of tea-table conversation, that the tide in the British channel would rise at least thirty feet perpendicularly above the level it ever reached before, on the twenty-fourth or twenty-fifth of Fdvuary, 1803, several antiquated spinsters, and superannuated old bachdors, with m numerous retinue of lap-dogs and grimalkin companions, have actually re- moved from this place to Cuckfield, lest the prognostic should be verified, and the dreadful phenomenon ovowhelm the town. They are expected to return to this place to-morrow, unless a recollection of the alteration whidi has been made in the style, since the prophecy was uttered, should recur to them, when, in all probability, they may deem it necessary to avoid the coast at least eleven days longer than they had first calculated as necessary." ORIGIK OP BRIGHTON. " About sixty years ago, Brighton consisted of a few thatched fisher- men's huts, a considerable number of which were in ruins. A Sussex farmer, now living, who at that time had never seen the sea, rememben his joiuTiey thither; when his breakfast only came to threepence; an ex- cellent dinner of beef-steaks for six pence; and the remainder of the shilling went to pay for his horse, and the ostler : to use his own expression, they icere so unaccuslomed to the right of a stranger, that they made. Sir, as great a to-do with me, as if I had been the King's son. The Old Ship was then newly opened by Hicks ; wheat was only four pounds ten KhilUngir « load, and butter sold for four pence a pound. Lewes Races had been esta- blished about eleven years. The first patron of Brighton was Dr. Russdl, who then resie and chance of comparative happiness again dawning upon them : not always either deserted by all their bett^* tastes and feelings, any more than superior manners, instances of which have not unfrequently been seen and noticed by many *. If, therefore, any occasion shoidd occur where desperate affliction like the above should be indicated or even expected, we may say, not on insufficient, but on the best and most beneficent authority, ** go and do likewise.'' Is it to be supposed, that any superiority of conduct, if ever so brightly robed in virtue, * Reference may be made to the Morning Herald of Dec 3, 1832, or aii^ periodical of that date, relating an incident which omirred Nov. 3& We cannot admire the conduct of the official gendemau there concerned. 86 COAST OF SUSSEX. ought to render any others the objects of contempt alone and not pity ? That will be the very Pharisaical antipodes to the spirit of Him whom they perhaps profess to follow as their Lord and benefactor. And if the diamond shield of mercy be extended before any unfortunate person, who is qualified to throw the first dirty pebble at it ? ** Give every one his deserts, and who shall escape whipping ?** UBEBAI. ENTKSTAIKMENTB. " Avg. M. — At the Pavilion dinner yesterday, the Prince entertained five of his royal brothers, the Dukes of York, Clarence, Kent, Sussex, and Cumberland. Of the splendid party were also the Duke of Orleans, M. Beaujolois, the Marquis of ^Vinchester, Count Stahremberg, Mr. Sheridan, Colonels Turner and Lee, &c. This being the natal day of the heir appa- rent, the morning was ushered in by the ringing of bells, and the flag was hoisted on the tower of the church- Two oxen, pro bono publico, are roast- ing whole on the LeveL Such an agreeable bustle as this town at present exhibits, was never witnessed here before. Business is totally given up, and pleasure is the standing order of the day. At ten o'clock a.m. the e Clifibrd and another lady ; the carriage was drawn by six fine bay horKs; after which followed his royal highness the Prince of ^Vales, mounted on a beautiful iron gray charger. His royal highness was most superbly dressed in the hussar uniform, and wore a diamond bdt, with a diamond crown on his breast ; the feather in his royal highness's c^ was nK»t superb, encircled with diamonds round the bottom, and fixed in a diamond loop ; never did we witness his royal highness in better health and spirits. The accoutrements of his charger were most superh. They proceeded slowly to tlie ground, where the troojM were formed in a line, which 90 COAST OF 8CS8KX. on the beautiful hiUs at the four-mile course, which coininaDd a grand view of the sea. At within half a mile from the ground, his rojal high- ness the Duke of York galloped up to the line, which extended upwards of a mile, and passed them without any form. They were placed in the fol- lowing order : on the right the horse artillery ; next, the First Dragoon Guards ; then the third, or King's Own ; the Cheshire infantry ; the Berkshire ; the Second Somoset ; the South Hants ; the South Gkucester ; and fourth troop of the fourteenth, or Duchess of York's Light Dragoons; and the foot artillery, whidi composed the Une. At half-past twdve the whole of the royal party arrived on the ground, and took dieir station in the centre of the line ; her royal highness the Princess Charlotte of Wales's carriage stood just behind her royal father. As soon as the royal party had taken their station, a royal salute of twenty-one guns was fired from the horse artillery ; the ranks formed into open order, when the royal party went down the front of the line, returned by the rear, and retook thdr station in the centre, when the whole of the Kne passed in ordinary and quick time, the different bands playing ' God save the King;' after which they formed the line and fired &feu-de-Joie, which was fcUowed by three cheers, the bands playing ' God save the King.' Some ships passing at the time, received signals from the telegraph ; they immediately fired a royal salute, and hoisted the royal standard There was also a sham fight on the sea with small boats, which had a very pretty effect. The day was uncommonly fine, and not one accident occurred to damp the joy mani- fested on this happy occasion. A good deal of mirth was occasioned by the firing ; several of the horses that had been taken from the caixiages having broken loose, and run in all directions, leaving many of the com- pany fixed in their carriages imtil the horses were caught. At half-past three the royal party returned to the Pavilion, where his royal highness the Prince of ^Vales's band was playing to receive them. Her royal high- ness the Princess Charlotte of Wales, after partaking of some refreshmmts, walked on the lawn with her royal uncles, who seemed to vie widi eadi other in atteition to her. His royal highness the Duke of Camlnidge danced with har on the lawn, and at six o'clock she returned to Worthing. At eight o'clock the royal party, the Duke of St Alban's, the Marquis of Headfort, Earls Berkeley, Craven, Dursley, Bathurst, and Barryroore; Viscount Melbourne; Lords Petersham, Erskine, and Charles, Edward, and Arthur Somerset, and several miUtary officers, sat down to dinner. The Pavilion was most brilliantly hghted, and the South Gloucester band played on the Steyne. The illuminations were splendid. The prince attended the ball at the Casde in the evening, which was crowded with fiuhion and beauty, but none of the royal party joined in the dance. The supper was of the first description, but would have been better enjoyed had the company been less numerous. The prince retired at an earlj hour." STORin. " Nor. 29. — A more turbulent week in regard to the weather, than the last has proved, in this part of the world, can scarcely be rcodlected. On Thursday eveninpc a tremendous gale from tlie south-west came on, and which raged with the utmost fury during the whole of that night and BRIGHTON. 91 following day. Several houses here were nearly unroofed, and one or two in an unfinished state were literally blown down. The destruction of glas has been beyond all precedent great. Several houses in St. James's-street had each from twenty to thirty panes demolished, and similar injuries were received in various parts of the town. The most distressing accident, how- ever, on Thursday evening, was with a boat, belonging to a person of the name of Short, who, with a fisherman, an inhabitant of Worthing, had just returned from Hastings with a cargo of herrings, having on board forty thousand. — The beat passed this town about nine o'clock in the evening, with the intention of running into Shoreham Harbour. At the harbour's entrance, melancholy to relate, within a stone's cast of being in a place of safety, the boat upset, and both of the men were drowned. The body of the AVorthing man was washed on shore here yesterday, and was conveyed to the workhouse. The body of Short has not yet been picked up. Up- wards of ten thousand of the herrings which the boat contained were yesterday washed ashore at Rottingdean, and taken up by the inhabitants there, being a distance of nearly eight miles from the place where the fatal accident occurred. The weather yesterday was boisterous, but comparativdy fine to what it had been for several preceding days. In the evening another unfavourable alteration took place, and the whole night proved to be ex- cessively stormy. — At this time it blows a complete hurricane at due south, accompanied with the most soaking rains we ever experienced. Haj^y not a sail of any description is distinguishable in this part of the Channd; from the lughness of the tide, the most serious apprehensions are entotained for the fate of the eastern dif^" " The Duke and Duchess of Montrose were here on Saturday, from Worthing, to which place their graces returned towards the evening." " The gaiety of this place now daily increases ; the rides and walks, ooo- scquently, until dinner time, have gay appearances. The Steyne, and the hbraries, are also crowded of an evening. The donkies, alias Jerusalnm ponies, are getting rather into disuse, a phalanx of sprightly cropped-esred ponies taking their stand at the south end of the Steyne, where donkies were formerly exhibited- The former are in high favour with the bdks. Upwards of fourteen, in one group, we observed, scampering over the Downs with their fair burthens this morning; a few donkies were a mblin g their snail's pace at the same time, the ponies snorting as they passed, as though they had felt it disgraceful to be seen in such sluggish company.* " It is rumoured here, but with how much truth we know not, that the Princess of Wales will spend the greater part of the summer at Wtxriiui^'' Puns. — " Many of our lovely belles took ducks for breakfast this mtmiin^ purchased of their cateress, Martha Gunn, who boasts that from the fiur profits she gains by the sale of her ducks, she is often enabled to purchase a goose for dinner.— The hostile shuis that have lately been exdianged be- tween the Sliip and the Castle here, appear Ukely to end in sociable balls at tlie former place, for the remainder of the season." 92 COAST OF SUSSEX. 1809. " Some recent alterations, it apiKjars, will shortly take place in the Prince of AV^alcs's establishment, both here and in London, as Mr. Becht, his Royal Highness's house-steward, has resigned his situation ; bat who is to be his successor, we have not yet heard. Mr. B., than whom we know no person more worthy, was ever honoured with the confidence, so far u related to his department, of his royal master, and who now, in token of his respect for the uprightness of his character, has presented him with a house and farm, the ]>roperty of his Royal Highness, to the north of this town about half a mile, on the Cuckfield road, which will be Mr. Becht's residence in future, with free permission to visit Carieton-house, or the Pavilion, whenever, and for whatever length of time he pleases." This was a princely act. JVBII.GE ON THE OCCASION OP THE FIFTIETH YEAR OF THE BKION OP GEORGE III. " Oct. 25. — The weather yesterday was as favourable as could have been desired. The heavens might be figuratively represented as smiling on creation, in approval of those laudable and loyal rgoicings that, in every quarter, predominated. The mom was ushered in by the ringing of bells, &c., and the shops, as on a Sunday, were all shut, and daring the preceding part of the day, the solemnity of Sunday pervaded the town, which was deemed the best mode of celebrating the day, by paying the earliest atten- tion to the rites of religion, and the practice of the moral duties •. At one o'clock a royal salute was fired from the fort, which was repeated by a gun-brig, the only ship of war lying within sight of the town. At half- past one o'clock the doors of the Royal Riding House, in Church-street, were thrown open for the admission of the benevolent Mr. MigheWs party, in number about two thousand three hundred, exclusiTe of the hundred stewards, who were very active on the occasion. Never was any entertain- ment regulated with more order than was this ; every body was happy, and not a single unpleasant accident occurred to impede the harmony of the proceedings. About fifteen hundred poor persons were also dined at the same time in the farm-yard of Mr. Scra.ie, about three hundred yards from the former place, at the expense of a party of gentlemen, who opened a subscription for such a benevolent purpose, and where similar order and harmony prevailetl. The breaking up of both parties was attended with the same decorum and regularity as had happily marked their meeting. The grateful poor had retiretl, generally uttering expressions of loyalty, and invoking blessings on Mr. Mighell and their liberal friends, to their several residences, by five o'clock. There was no illumination in the evening, • We were going to say " this is all renj well," but on second tbonghts it is not very well in any sense. They turned tlie day into n/ast, and that not of the most leptimate rharacter : " To deal thy bread to the hungry," &c. &c. An ineritable suspicion is excited of mranness haring thrust it«elf into the motives of conduct, more especially as we find no objection recorded to the generous bounty of individuals. Wc can rememiH-r how that interesting dny whs ob- served elsewhere, and wc have found n gratifying a<-count which we shall give under the head of Hastings. BRIGHTON. 9^ excepting at the house of Prince Castelcicala, tite Neapolitan Ambassador, which exhibited a star, &c. in variegated lamps. The Prince, it is under- stood, as it liad been decided on that no general illumination should take place, had been solicited to desist from such a measure, lest it should excite the people to demand an exhibition of lights in other places; but the r^lj of the prince, it seems, evinced the fu'l propriety of his intention. As an ambassador to this country, his highness is stated to have expressed him- self, he felt it his duty to give some public mark of his participating in the joy of such an occasion, and even his own court might condemn him in the event of his neglecting such an opportunity. The ball and supper at the Castle Rooms in the evening were very elegantly attended, about four hun- dred fashionables being there." " An erroneous paragraph, calculated to depreciate the value of the pro- perty to the east of this town, has appeared in various London papers, stating, that the erection of a wall at the base of the cliff, to prevent the farther encroachments of Lord Neptune in that quarter, would cost the immense sum of 24,000/. Now the case is, that a wa" is actually b^on, imder the direction of John Smith, Esq., after a plan laid down by Major Reynolds, and which the said J. Smith, Esq., has offered to complete for the sum of 3,000/. only, to indemnify the parties who subscribe to it, and to keep the said wa^' in effectual repair, at five per cent on the cost price, and wliich has met with general encoiu-agement. Twenty men have been employed for some days past in reducing the summit of the c''ff to a gradual declivity, to let off the waters that have lodged, and may &U on the road, and in making other improvements on the Marine Parade, that are already visible on that agreeable and wholesome walk. It was at first proposed to build the wall with Portland stone, but that proposal is now rejected, materials for it being found on the spot, that promise to answer every purpose." " Yesterday the weather was bright, and the public dejeun^ at Presiom Grove attracted about one hundred individuals of ton to that quarter, of which number was the amiable Duchess of Marlborou^." " There was a great catch of mackarel during the night of Tuesday. One boat brought to shore two thousand, three quarters of a hundred, and eighteen, of these delicacies of the deep, long tale, which allows six score and twelve to the hundred. I'hese altogether were sold at 6d. each, or 3/. 6s. the hundred, which brought the fishermen a stun of upwards of 68/. The poor fellows exultingly acknowledged that they had a good jever, meaning their cargo, which word, probably, is a corruption of tearfare." 1810. " Dec. 3. — Several of the enemy's privateers infested this part of the Channel on Friday, and made several captures. Towards seven o'clock in the evening, the flashes from two contending vessels were distinctly seen from the d>ffs here. The darkness hid the objects from observation, and they were at too great a distance for the explosions to be often heard. It is feared, however that tlie enemy was successful, as no drcumstautial 94 (-OA8T OF SUSSEX. particulars of the enp^agemcnt, nor scarcely any thing relative to it, hare since reached us. At Newhaven, a distance of only nine miles from hence, the conduct of the privateers was the most audacious. They are stated to have ran in close enough to fire at the people on the shore, and to have made a capture or two in despite of any and every species of force which could be brought to bear against them.' " On Monday, the Easter hohday folks, in all the brilliance of Sonday finery, assembled in great numbers at the Bear public-hoose, about a mile north of the town, on the grounds contiguous to which they were subse- quently entertained with the polished diversions of cock fighting, and a baiting of a badger. Yesterday, to give interesting variety to their sports, a bull was tied to the stake and baited at Hove, which affi)rded some amusement, and at which the whole of the Bear assemblage of the precerting day was present. In the latter instance some danger was threatened, as the compact phalanx of gazers was broken through, and pat to the root by the rottenness of the rope, which imexpectedly gave the boll his freedom. The scene of confusion which ensued would be difficult to desoibe, but happily no serious injuries marred the refined pleasures of the day." " July 3.— Yesterday the weather was bright and soltry dming the morning ; indeed the solar rays were too oppressive for lengthened exposoies to them, and the parched earth Uterally smoked with the intenseness of their heat. Towards six o'clock in the evening, however, dark doods began to obscure the sky, menacing an approaching storm, and whidi came on witli uncommon violence about seven. The thunder was awfully tremend- ous, and nearly every house in the town was shaken to the base, and the h'ghtning was suitably strong and vivid. This storm continued for some- thing better than an hour, during which we were gratified by the fall of two or three very copious showers of rain— a visitation that we had long, very long been in want of. From eight to half-past nine the evening was tolerably fine, but at ten the storm returned with all its former violence, and which raged with more or less fury throughout the night, with the grateful accompaniment of moisture, which the thirsty earth greedily drank as it felL A delightful day succeeded the inclemencies of the nig^t; v^etation appears completely renovated. The alteration has not been more sudden than great, and all the fashion and beauty of the place diis rooming in tlieir various exercises enjoyed, as it were, the smiles of the new world, for every thing denoted health, and renewed energies and powers about them. A refreshing breeze from the sea still reviTUi£^y predominates." But few events in the history of Brighton occurred for about fourteen years after. In the summer of 1814, on the occasion of the downfall of Buonaparte, when universal re- joicings prevailed throughout the British empire, the inhabi- BRIGHTON. 9l5 tants of Brighton for once opened their purses as well as hearts in a public celebration of a most liberal and faultless character. Upwards of seven thousand persons, men, women, and chil- dren, on the Prince Regent's birth-day, August 12, received an excellent dinner of roast-beef, plum-pudding, and ale^ in the cricketlng-ground, accompanied by flags, military bands, flutes of artillery. Sec &c., and an immense number of grati- fied spectators on foot, and nearly 300 carriages. The Rev. Dr. Carr presided, and delivered two remarkably appropriate graces. In the evening dancing took place, with excellent order and decorum. Several instances of private liberality occurred. Mr. Trotter, the manager of the theatre, exhibited it in his way by opening the greater part of his house gratis, when * God save the King,* &c. were sung in chorus. The stewards of the tables distributed to the female part of those entertained various trifling gifts for mementos, as snuff4x>xes, rings, &C. &c.* O gi sic omnia ! From about the year 182i to the present maybe dated the wonderfully rapid improvements and enlargements of Brighton, which has now extended itself along the sea-shore for a space of three miles. The various public buildings and churches have also been erected within this period ; the road to the west of the Steyne opened and widened, the bold sea-road and esplanade constructed, and, lastly, the chain pier. In the autumn of 1830, their present Majesties, King William and Queen Adelaide, made their first most welcome entry into Brighton, with a view of establishing here their annual winter residence. On such an auspicious event, the feelings of the inhabitants must have been pleasurably excited, and displayed in some external indications f . Their majesties found, on thdr * We derive this account from SicAIemore's Epitome of Brighton, 1815> a work which has been shamelessly pillaged verbatim by succeeding Guides. His account of the Pavilion, as it then was, has been copied twenty times over, with a few alterations not at all for the better, to make it look originaL Air. Brmyky is the only one who has acknowledged his having borrowed it. The " Famfly Topographer," vol. L 18d2, is still more absurd, ha\'ing inserted an old tran- scribed account of the Pai-ilion as it existed about twenty-five years ago, sinee when it has been almost entirely rebuilt. f Not ha\-ing been in Brighton at that time, we derive this from a very long and minute account in " Bruce's Brighton," 1631. 96 COAST OF SUSSEX. arrival at Preston, a line of several hundred carriages extending to the new church, filled with well-dressed and gralulating sjjcctators. Near the northern entrance of the pavilion, a temporary triumphal arch was constructed of timber, fifty feet high, with an aperture of twenty-five feet, covered to the summit with greens and flowers, decorated with many flags, and comprising three or four galleries, in which were ranged charity children and seamen in their holiday dresses. In the evening there was a splendid illumination of the whole town, the pier, and some vessels in the road, with decorations of flowers, music, and fire-works. Two days after, the school children of the town received a public dinner on the Steyne, accomptanied by music, banners, &c., and an enormous con- course of spectators. Their Majesties visited the scene, and evinced the most satisfying affability, and the sincerest pleasure. We cannot, for the life of us, help thinking, though we have no desire to offend by mentioning it, that it would have been still more worthy of the magnitude of the place, and of the occa- sion, if all the more indigent jxjpulation, old as well as young, had been entertained, as was the case on the former occasion. From this period to the present, no events of interest or plea- sure have occurred. Under the Reform Bill, Brighton will return two members to parliament. The first election had not taken place at the time this was written. The present winter is the second in which their Majesties and the court have resided in Brighton. It is due lo the inhabitants to add, that they seem generally sensible of the credit and advantage which their town is thus obtaining. Should this work be thought worthy to live, afier it has appeared, we wish to close this part of it with good wishes towards the inhabitants in general, as well as towards the visitors of Brighton. May it live to see the benign Olive, interspersed with the Rose and Myrtle in their parterres, and the white flag of Peace floating on their Forum and Acropolis; — to see their discords healed, and the social body more united, more liberal, and charitable, — it is unnecessary to add, more happy ! BRIGHTON. 9T DESCRIPTION. It can scarcely be a necessary object of ioformation to any reader to detail to him the exact situation of Brighton, or its distance from London, which, by the direct road through Croydon, Riegate (or by the new side cut, which leaves the latter to the right), and Cuckfield, is fifty-two miles. It» situation on the coast is usually considered as a suitable point for indicating the separation of the county into two great, divisions ; the lateral extents are, however, unequal, the line to the west, beyond Chichester, not much exceeding thirty miles, whilst the eastern boundary at Rye is upwards of fifty. Prior to entering upon our miscellaneous detail, we are induced to insert the lively sketch of a fanciful but very good-hearted Frenchman ; its hues are certainly of the brightest tint, but it is far better for a traveller, if the state of his own feelings and the reception he meets with from the inhabitants will allow him, to be willing to see all things in a strange country, en couleur de rose, and to consider the manners of the in- habitants with kind and fair allowance, where that is required, ' than to set out in a spirit of querulous criticism and proud - alienation, which can neither cause pleasure or benefit to himself or others. " Brighton Boad. — At four in the morning we had cast anchor in the road, for Brighton has no harbour. The custom-house sends off a boat to the vessels, which receives the passengers and their luggage; but it cannot reach the shore, on account of the shallowness of the water. The pas> sengers are obliged to be carried on the robust shoulders of the sailors, who, for this act of complaisance, ask only the trifle of three shiUings a-head. We are in England, where the representative sign of the ex- istence of a French family for two or three days represents nothing. " These first details will no doubt appear trifling, and particu'arly to, unless the reader will have the kindness to recollect that I am writing ray journal, which contains the history of all my impressions. One of the most lively of them all is the aspect of a new country ; and after having been absolutely forced to travel from adventure to adventure, through the rest of Europe, I am now for the first time on the soil of England. " The shore of Brighton is celebrated for its sea-bathing, which attracts every year the first company in the kingdom. It deserves this celebrity by the picturesque elegance of its charming views, to which no expression can do justice; especially, when the ray of the rising sun, glittering by 98 COAST OF SUSSKX. degrees on the face of the waters which are slowly illuminated, strike here and there with their light, long zones of the sea, which detach themselves from its ol)sciire extent like silver isles ; or else play among the sails of a little bark, wliich floats inundated with brightness on a brilliant plane, among innumerable vessels which the light has not yet touched. It is principally on the horizon that the mixture of departing darkness and advancing hght is remarkable. All the obscurities descend, all the lights arise. The earth and the firmament seem to have exchanged attributes. In the air, a sombre vapour is precipitated and dissolved; on the eardi, a mild reflexion of light spreads, incessantly increasing in transparency and warmth; and the most distant line of the dark ocean rises re- splendent on the shades of the sky." " Brighton. — The extreme cleanliness of the towns in England is so wdl known, that on arriving at Brighton, I was astonished to find myself EtiO forcetl to be astonished. Imagine to yourself an assemblage of decorations full of grace and lightness, such as the imagination would wish in a magical theatre, and you will have some idea of our first station. Brighton, however, presents no edifice worthy of remark, with the exception of the king's palace, which is constructed in the Oriental style, and probaHy on the plan of some building in India. There is not much harmony between this eastern style and the surrounding houses, built like pretty Italian pavilions under a northern sky ; but it is the mark of a power which stretches its sceptre over a part of the east, and draws from it the prin- cipal elements of its prosperity. This incoherence, notwithstanding, has no bad efiect in a picture of illusions. Fairy Land is not subject to the rule of the unities. " I continued my journey along a road without ruts, without jolting, without any embarrassment, in a commodious elegant vehicle, adorned with taste, drawn, or rather carried away by four beautiful horses, all alike, all with the same pace, who devoured the distance, champing bits of the most splendid polish, and starting and snorting under a harness of a rich and noble simplicity. A coachman in livery drove them, and a handsome neat postilion urged them on. Every two leagues, postilions, attentive, civil, neither impertinent nor in liquor, brought out fresh horses just hke the first, which we could see striking the ground at a distance, as if eager and impatient for the career they were to go through. Though the distance to London is not great, no delicate attentions whidi could embellish it were omitted by the enchanters who led me along. Half-way, an officious major-domo introduced me into a magnificent saloon, in which were served all sorts of refreshments— hmpid tea, which sparkled in china; frothy porter, which foamed in silver ; and, on another table, dioice, copious, varied dishes, watered with port. After this I set out again, and the eager coursers— but perhaps it is time to take breath, and to say, in more positive terms, that England is the first country in the world for its horses, public carriages, and inns. The magnificent equipage I have just mentioned was the diligence, and the caravansera of the Arabian Nights, a caji on the high road. One might easily, in the environs of London, comprehend the mistake of Don Quixote, who took inns for castles. "la fact, from Brighton to London, it is merely a street of twenty BRIGHTON 99 leagues, bordered with parks, gardens, smiling farms, pretty country houses, charming pavilions, covered from top to bottom with hangings of roses, and preceded by courts or terraces shaded with cool bowers, under which dance young girls, whom Raphael might regret not to have seen. Youth is charming every where, but in England it is ravishing. A plain girl under sixteen years of age is almost a rarity." — Charles Nodier's Pn^ menade from Dieppe to the Mountains of Scotland. 1821. CLIMATE, SOIL, AIR, AND WATER. No observations we could form or compile on this subject would be equal to Dr. Relhan^ which of course apply, with undiminished effect, to the present state of Brighton and its vicinity. His pamphlet has lately been republished, with some clever notes, principally topographical, by a Mr. Michell, a medical gentleman of Brighton ; but we have felt called upon to abstain from borrowing any of the latter. " The soil here, and over all the South Downs, is a chalk rock covered with earth of various kinds and depths in different places. " The advantages resulting from this kind of soil are many and consi- derable. Chalky ground has httle or no perspiration, and therefore must be extremely healthy. The fertility of it as to grain is indisputable, and is owing to the native bed of chalk, dug up by the farmers in the very field they restore it to the surface of again, for its own and their enrich- ment. The abundant crops which it produces, aided by this manure, are not so surprising as the ability of its continuing to do so for upwards of twenty years from a single act of manuring *. The grass of this soil is of the finest texture and of the sweetest taste, and, in this particular place, is interspersed, on the summits of the hills, with vnlA aromatic plants of dif- ferent sorts, which might be easily increased to the advantage of the pro- prietors and the public. " To these, perhaps with justice, may be ascribed the remarkably sweet flavour of the mutton of this place ; and to the culture of these aroroatics we certainly might, and I hope soon shall, be indebted for a medicine used with the greatest success in A^'^ales, Scotland, and Ireland, and much wanted in the neighbourhood of London— I mean goat's milk. The effects which arise from the use of tliis milk converted into whey, inriched with the aperient, saponaceous powers of these aromatic plants, are well known to the experienced practitioner ; and I am persuaded, that if tried as a pre- parative for sea-bathing, it would be found extremely serviceable. " The ground of this soil does not crack, nor the grass bum so soon as • PUny presumes it will last much longer : " Alteram genus albae crelse ar- gentaria est Petitur ex alto in centenos pedes, actis pleruraque puteis, &c. Hac maxime Britaiuia utitur. Duiat annis lxxx." Hist. lib. x>iL cap. &-— EMan. u2 )(K) COAST OF SUSSEX. ill othCT soils. This is, perhaps partly owing to the reflecting power rf the cliallc, partly to the declivity of the hills ; and yet in wet weather it sooner prows dry, so that you may immediately ride after heavy raim^ without tlie least inconveniency. Hence it follows, that in this soil there can be no marshy, swampy ground, excepting in such places as border oo rivers. Now, as the nearest riv»- to this town is really distant six miles* and as this is a drcumstance peculiar to itself, no other maritime town ib England being equally remote from one, I may venture to affirm diat die soil here is extremely dry, and that the air of this place most be piopor- tionaUy pure. " Lastly, in this soQ it is remarkable that water for the necessary naes rf life is difficult to be acquired, as it lies deep ; but, when obtained, it weA rewards the laborious searcher, as it is excellent in its kind, and its auuiua almost inexhaustible. • ••••••• " The advantage of exercise may be always enjoyed in fair weadier: it is ever cool on the hills, and a shelter may be constantly found in the Til.; leys from excess of wind. • • «• •• • • " In examining the ancient and modem descriptions of the Baije in Campania, where the Romans of wealth and quality, during the greatness of that empire, retired for the sake of health [and pleasure;, when pohlie exigencies did not require their attendance at Rome, and comparing them with those of Brighthdmston, I can perceive a striking resemblance; and I am persuaded, that every Uterary person who will impartiaUy consider this matter on the spot, will concur with me in opinion, giving, in some measure, the preference to our own Raise, as exempt from the inconvenient steams of hot stilphureous baths, and the dangerous vicinity of Moont Vesuvius. • ••*•••• " To demonstrate that the town and neighbourhood of Brighthehnstoa are totally free from the vapours of running water, the more impure ooex of stagnant, and the perhaps equally iinhealthy ones issuing from trees, it is only necessary to observe, that this town Ues six miles distant from the nearest river ; that there is no stagnant water near it; and that the want of shelter by trees is the general complaint of those who consider this cir- cumstance, as a conveniency for cover and perspective, and not as a matter greatly contributing to health. " The practice of sending persons labouring under pulmonic complaints to similar situations is by no means a recent one. For this purpose we find (ialen making use of the rtabitr, situated between Naples and Sorren- tum on the sea-shore: defended from easterly and northerly winds; hap- pily exposed to the south, and the healthful influence of sea vapour. And to this situation, and the use of milk saturated with the juice of heaKii^ plants which grew abundantly in that soil, and may be made to do ao in ours, he attributed his saccess in the cure of these disorders. BKIGHTOX. 101 " In the Eummer months a sea-breeze pre^-aik, which rises and dies away with the sun, with this observable in it, that the warmer the day is, the more cooling and fresh is the breeze ; so that the ahnost suffocating heata which sometimes happen in the summer in this island, and whidi are in- tolerable even to the natives of Jamaica, are never felt here. Of the grate- ful enjoyment of a cooling sea breeze the ancient poets we find had to pleasing an idea, that they celebrated it as a principal ingredient in the happiness of the blessed in their Elysium *. " The same temperature prevails in winter, with respect to frost and snow; the former happens sufficiently often to add to the health of the inhabitants; it is sharp while it lasts, but its duration is short. The latter frequently falls during the winter season, bat seldom continues on the ground above a day or two; the warmth from the sea, and the soath we£t winds which prevail, soon dissdve it. The efiects, therefore, pro- duced here either by heat or cold, are too transitory and too immaterial to be pernicious." fXINTENTS OF THE ^1& WATKR. "It appears, that in summer weather tecial reference to the vicinity of Hastings. On further reflection, however, we considered that if we once entered this field of observation, consistency would require an extended and desultory track to be pursued, for which we have neither • Horn. Odyss. iv. 567, 568- Find. Olym. iL f Colbum, 1828 Price, we believe, 8 or 9 shillings. It is necessary to add, that we have not tbe remotest knowledge of this gentleman. 102 COAST OF 80SSKX. ability nor space ; we therefore refer all visitors to the work itself, with our best wishes, and the satisfactory information, that there is absolutely no disease whatever, however arising, or protracted, in either sex, in which the Doctor does not contemplate the possibility of a cure, from the united effects of sea air, warm or cold bathing, and mineral waters. POPULATION. In 1801, the population of Brighton was not quite 8000; in 1811, it was 13,000 ; in 1821, it had increased to 24,000; and in 1831, to 40,000, besides upwards of 1000 included in the adjoining parish of Hove. The number of houses at the latter survey was 8000, a proportion to the inhabitants far greater than in London and other large towns, the obTKMis reason for which is that about one-third are constantly occupied by visitors. The average number of the latter, with slight fluctuations, from the 1st of May to the 1st of February, is from 20 to 25,000. The total number of persons who visit Brighton, for any space of time not less than a week, during the year, is supposed to be at least 100,000: perhaps if a less period of stay were admitted this number would be doubled or nearly trebled ; but these two latter calculations rest on less certain grounds. GENERAL APPEARANCE. The sea line of houses in Brighton now extends from the eastern extremity of Kemp Town, to Adelaide-terrace, beyond the western esplanade, full three miles ; a range of piles oi buildings, we suppose, alone to be equalled at St. Petersburgh. Nearly in the centre, but rather inclining towards the west, is the opening of the Steync, from whence a noble level extends into the country, flanked about the centre of the Steyne, oo the west side, by the Pavilion, and terminated by the el^ant pinnacled tower of the new church, with a prospect of the Downs at a short distance behind it. This fine expanse is Cfjtially conducive to health and pleasure. A little before BRIGHTON. lOlS we reach the PaviHon, the old North-street, which is in fact the High-street of Brighton, runs up a hill, eventually at- taining the height of 150 feet, at the summit of which is the old church ; and on the opposite side of the Steyne, St. James's-street rises with a slighter elevation towards Kemp Town ; this again may be termed the local Bond or Regent- street. This outline must suffice for the present : — in a few pages we shall present the reader with a sufficiently minute description in detached parts. THE OLD CHURCH, ST. NICHOLAS'S, Which stands on the top of the hill, to which part North-street gradually rises to the height before mentioned above low water mark, is an aged and by no means handsome edifice, scarcely equal to the average, even in the small towns of this vicinity, and though not unsuitable to the rude beginnings of Brighton, possessing little affinity to its present state. We are very happy to be able to add, that some liberal, though by no means complete, repairs have been effected by the present church- wardens (1832) ; otherwise, at any time within the preceding ten years, we should have had a sad account to give of its unsuitable appearance. The principal improvements are the insertion of neat square-topped Gothic windows in place of a kind of sash ones, with shutters: some painting and cleaning,^ &c. The ugly tower, and a frightful and indescribably odd erection of brick, at the north-west angle, still cry out for alteration. The church has three long and low aisles, a chancel, and small south chancel, and a tower barely 40 feet high. In the interior the aisles are separated by five arches on each side, of the fifteenth century, with octagonal pillars. Some ancient texts over them have lately been restored in a happy style with ornamented borders. At the entrance of the chancel is a handsome wood screen, also of the Tudor sra, and formerly supporting the rood loft. There are galleries in every direction, painted white, with benefactions inscribed on 104> COAST OF SUSSEX. those at the east and west end. The pews of deal are still unpainted, and have a mean effect ; the pulpit also is not hand- somely fitted up. The chancel is much neater, being pewed with oak, with a pretty though minute altar-piece of the Ionic order, with white and gold fluted columns, the decalogue, &c. The interior has however a much more neat and cheerful ap- pearance than formerly, and the walls have been coloured in an appropriate style. By means of the extensive galleries, it is said to be capable of containing 1400 persons, and is always crowded. The side aisles are very narrow, that on the north side especially, which does not exceed nine feet in width. In various parts are numerous monuments, some of which are interesting. The organ is a very good one. Of the rude old font in this church we could say nothing which has not been advanced a hundred times before, and therefore do not enlarge on the subject. It is either of Saxon date, or of an age little posterior to the Conquest, and there is a tradition which asserts it to have been brought from Nor- mandy. Around the circular edge are five or six rough but bold groups, representing the Last Supper ; also kings, monks, nuns, on land and in boats. Sec. all which will speak for them- selves to the spectator. The window at the east end is in the style of the fourteenth century, but evidently not 100 years old ; whether it is a correct restoration or no, we are unable to tell : the general style of the church is of the fifteenth century. The tower contains eight bells, of very harmonious tone, but inconsiderable size, the tenor, which is in the key of F, only weighing 16 cwt. : this is the only peal which this great town can boast of, and there is here neither clock or chimes *. The bells were cast by a Mr. Rubhall, a native of Brighton, at his foundery in Bristol, in 1777. On the tower is a short spiral obelisk of wood, with a large broad arrow for a vane, which • The latter, either at the church, or Town-hall, as in the Royal Exchange ill London, would forca a very pleasing addition to the town, delighting grown children as well as young ones, as they do in Flanden. " Soon yon sweet chimes the appointed hour will tdl. For here, to music, times moves merrily."— Soxtthey. BRIGHTON. 105 when freshly gilt, as has lately been done, has a very smart appearance. Above, the royal standard or the union jack is displayed when the Pavilion is occupied, as is also the case at the New Church. In the churchyard is part of the shaft of a cross, raised oa four or five steps, to which we may, not improbably, assign as . early a date as the thirteenth century. The view from this spot, over the expanse of densely crowded houses and the sea, is magnificent : the Town-hall, from hence alone, appears as a pile, handsome and commanding. The churchyard has been once or twice enlarged, and a new one was consecrated on the opposite side of the road, leading out of Church-street, in 1826. Still, the whole appears scanty when the enormous population is taken into account, and the older one might be better dis- used, except in the case of family burial-places. We have no other motive than a good one in urging any generous indi- vidual to interest himself in improving the decency of some of the least conspicuous parts ; as it is, they are painful to the spectator, and certainly not creditable to the place. There are a great variety of inscriptions, some of which may interest the passenger. The history of the celebrated Phoebe Hassell, the daring heroine who lived from 1713 to 1821, and had served in disguise as a soldier, is given at length. She received a pension from the kindness of George IV., who is said to have offered her a guinea a-week, which she declined, saying half that sum was as much as she should want or use. A rare instance of such a feeling. We subjoin Tettersell's epitaph, which has l>een lately recut cm a blue raised slab near the chancel door. " Captain Nicolas TetterseD, throvgh whose prvdence, valovr, and loyalty, Charles the lid. King of England, after he had escaped the swords of fais merdless rebels, and his forces received a fatal overthrow at Woroester, September the 3d, 1651, was faithfully preserved and oonveyed to France — departed this life the 26th day of Jyly, 1674." " Within this marble monvment doth Be Approved faith, honorr, and loyalty: In this cold clay he hath now ta'en vp hit gtati oo . Who once preserved the chvrcb, the crowne, and natioo : t06 COAST OF SUSSEX. When Charles the Create was nothing brt a breadi. This Taliant hero stept 'tween him and death; Vsvrpers' threats, nor tyrant rebeTs frowned Covld not affright his dvty to Ae aowne ; Which glorioTs act of his for divrch and states Eight Princes in one day, did grat^at^^ Professing all to him in debt to hee. As all the worM are to his memory. Since earth ootM not reward the worth him giTcn, He now receives it from the King of HeaTcn. In the same diest one jewel more yoa hare^ The partner of his virtves, bed, and graTt." In another part is a lofty and handsome monument for Mrs. Crouch, an actress, said to have been of ** wonderful" beauty, erected by IVIr. Michael Kelly ; it states, in conclusion, that " this was erected by him whom she esteemed the most faith- ful of her friends." This hadyiir better have been spared, as it is well known their connexion was adulterous. There were extenuating circumstances in her case ; she had a brutal hus- band, and we should look with mercy and charitable hope both on departed and living frailty ; still vice should never be pub- lickly acknowledged and blazoned, least of all here *. Dr. Carr, now Bishop of Worcester, and late of Chichester, was Vicar of Brighton for about thirty years, and very popular for his affability and kind-heartedness. The present vicar is the Rev. H. M. Wagner, M. A. ; the curate, the Rev. C. W. Langden, B. A. * Several dramatic reminiscences have been published latdy, and those of Michael, or as he terms himself, Mick. Kelly, (best known by the music of the " Forty Thieves,") display by far the least indications of goodness of heart of any. (O'Keefe'sor Dibdin's are pleasing contrasts.) One instance may suffice : — Air. Kelly was studying music at some conservatorio in Italy, when be heard his mother was dying ; " he could have wished to have gone to see her, but he had formed some engagements for the next few months, and, of cottrtty it Mras therefore impossible." Poor lovely Anna Maria Crouch, if this was ber best friend ! A favourable contrast of virtue as well as gracefulness, in a young member of an employment attended with dangers, presents itself in the following epitaph on a youthful actress, a Miss Campion, written by a nobleman, and recorded in Lyson's History of Buckinghamshire, at Chesham, in that county; which we quote with great satisfaction, as exhibiting another side of the picture. To doubt the purity of his feelings would be base and execrable. " Requiescit hie pars mortalis Mse Cn. obiit 19 Maii Ao 1706. ^tatis I9L Quod supere«t ex altera parte qusre. ** Formam ^regiam et miris illecebris omatam virtutes animi superarunt : BRIGHTON. ' 107 THE NEW CHURCH, ST. PETER'S, Erected at the north end of the town, near the junction of the routes from London and Lewes, in the year 1826, is a fine and beautiful gothic structure, and one of the most pleasing modem specimens in England within the last twenty yea^ The expense was about £20,000, for which an edifice of ample dimensions has been constructed, with a sufficient display of solid and well arranged ornaments, forming in every light from which it can be viewed, an agreeable coup (Tceil. The architect was Mr. Barry ; and the style is that of the conclusion of thefoui^ teenth century, emerging into the style of the succeeding. The church consists of a lofty nave and two side aisles, upwards of one hundred feet in length, the centre projecting in a semi' octagonal sweep, ornamented with three handsome windows, with ramified tracery : there are parapets and good pinnacles and buttresses throughout ; the parapet of the centre aisle is waved and pierced with quatrefoils, and the pinnacles at plebeium genus, sed bonestam nobOitate morum decoravit*. Supia mtateaa sagax ; supra sortem praesertiiii egeiiis benigna ; inter scenicos ludos, in quibus aliquamdiu versata est, verecunda et intemerata. Post quatuor mensium lao- guorum, a febri hectica correpta, intempestivam mortem ford pectme et Christiana pietate subivit. Humanitate praeditis, si quid mentem mortalis tangunt f, flebilis ; amicis beu flebilior : dilectissimis reliquiia sacrum lapidem hunc poni curavit, G.D.D." (Geoi^os Dux Devonis.) The following \nU give some idea of the purport, but the beauty of die original language cannot be translated. " Here rests the mortal part of Marj Campion, who died the 19th of Maj, in the year 1706, of her age 19: — " Her form, beautiful, and ornamented with 'wonderful' attractions, was excelled by the virtues of her mind : her origin was humble, but she adorned it, and rendered it honourable, by the nobility of her manners. Wise beyond her years ; remarkably, and beyond her condition, kind to the needy : amidst the scenic representations, in which she was sometime engaged, modest and unspotted. - Cut off, after an illness of four months, by a hectic fever, she endured her untimely death with an intrepid mind, and with Christian piety. By those endowed with humanity (if the mind is open to human sympathy) to be lamented ; by her friends, alas ! still more to be sorrowed for : to her most beloved remains this stone is placed as sacred by George Duke of Devonshire." * So punctuated in the originaL f " Sunt Uchryoue rerum, et mentem mortalia tangunt.'* — ViK. 108 COAST OF SUSSEX. either extremity are larger and loftier than the intermediate ones. At the west end is a neat tower, with deep belfrey win- dows, some fret-work, and four tall pinnacles ; also four handsome Clock-faces. On three of its sides is a lofty and grand projecting porch or vestibule, of a novel design, with beautiful ogee arches and clustered pillars, and turret-like spiral pinnacles at the angles. The lower part of this tower forms a convenient vestibule or hall, with a coved ceiling, forty feet high, and a double staircase to the galleries. In the interior, the nave is nearly fifty feet high, and the aisles thirty, separated on each side by five arches, resting on lofty and light columns, the centre moulding piercing the capital, and rising to the spring of the roof, which is vaulted throughout, in imitation of stone, producing a very happy appearance. The whole is very appropriately fitted up ; the pews of the colour of oak, and the fronts of the galleries of stone. At the east end is a neat stone altar screen of fret-work, and at the opposite end a hand- some gallery, arched, in imitation of stone, above which is a second of oak, containing the organ, an instrument of sufficient power, with a clear and sweet tone, and a fine swell. This church was built to accommodate eighteen hundred per- sons, but will conveniently hold two thousand, a considerable number of whom, as at the old church, are free; and it is very fully attended. The present clergyman is the Rev. T. Cooke, M. A., a practical and judicious preacher. The military in the town attend this church ; if there are two bodies, on alternate Sundays. The tower contains one deep toned bell for the hours, and two small musical ones for the quarters ; but the absence of a good ring of bells here is to be regretted. Around the church is a large space, well railed in, laid out as a lawn or shrubbery, and most abundantly scented with the pleasing fragrance of mignionette in the summer and autumn. THE CHAPEL ROYAL, Erected in Prince^'s Place in 1793, as the first Chapel of Ease, has the crest of the Prince of Wales, who contributed largely BRIGHTON. 109 to it, carved on the west side. It is a square building, capable of holding one thousand persons, with a neat interior, surround- ing galleries, and a small organ. The lower short supports are ugly; but the upper range of pillars, in imitation of iS'knna marble, and the Corinthian capitals o^ verd antique, are very good. The altar had formerly a copy oiMengs' beautiful picture at All Souls, Oxford, Our Saviour appearing to Mary in the garden, or the Noli me T anger e (a subject also well treated by Annibale Caracci), which has been removed to the vestry, to make room for the Decalogue : a pity, methinks, as some means might have been contrived for including both. The present clergyman is the Rev. J. Urquart, M. A. ' ST. JAMES'S CHAPEL, * The second established, is a very plain building, containing 850 persons, with a good organ. Clergyman, the Rev. D. Maitland, M. A. TRINITY CHAPEL, In Ship-street, has an indifferent Doric portico, and a very, heavy turret ; but the interior is handsome, with a neat dome on the roof, and a fine organ. It will contain 850 persons.—' Clergyman, the Rev. Robert Anderson, B.D. ST. MARY'S CHAPEL , Has a remarkably grand portico of four fluted columns in the- boldest style of Athenian, or almost of Agrigentine Doric, with corresponding antae and a massive pediment ; but the space between the pillars and the wall, viewed laterally, is much too narrow, and the sides are heavy. The interior is hand- some, with an organ, and will contain 950 persons. There is no turret or cupola at this chapel, which, it was supposed, would, as an elevation on the roof, have been out of keeping. We would suggest a detached tower or campanile.'— Clergy"' man, the Rev. H. V. Elliot, M. A. 110 COAST OF SU£SKX. ST. GEORGETS CHAPEL, The most spacious chapel of ease, situated near the Hospital and Kemp town, will contain 1200 persons. We should ob- serve, that all of them have a certain number of free seats, and are well attended. The interior here is remarkably plain ; but the arched roof of the centre aisle, supported by Ionic pillars from the galleries, which form a sweep at the west end, has a pleasing appearance; The organ is a good one. The exterior is heavy : its steeple is said to be 100 feet high, but is plain and deteriorated by Tuscan columns, the most inappropriate order for such an erection, where Corinthian richness or Ionic elegance is required. — Clergyman, the Rev. J. S. M. Ando'- son, M.A. ST. MARGARETS CHAPEL, At the west end of the town, in Cannon-place, is of a square form, with a large flat cupola on the roof. The Ionic portico is rather meagre, though well relieved by its sides. Above is a turret in humble, but not altogether unpleasing imitation of the Lantern of Demosthenes ; whilst its columns are of that fanciful Corinthian of which Stuart found an example at the Tower of the Winds, of simple lotus leaves, without the acan- thus. The interior is simple and grand, with a double tier of columns, and galleries on three sides, and a large recess for the pulpit, above the altar, on the fourth. It has an organ, and will contain 1000 persons. — Clergyman, the Rev. J. Roper, M.A. ST. ANDREWS CHAPEL,. Near Brunswick-square, and out of the limits of Brighton, in the parish of Hove, has a neat though low turret. The in- terior is smartly decorated, with a small organ, and will con-. tain 600 persons. — Clergyman, the Rev. Dr. Everard. BBICHTOX. lit The oldest is " Union-street" — Independents ; it has a loi^ and solid Doric front, a spacious interior, and an organ. " West- leyan," Dorset-gardens, a large plain building. " Hunting- donian," North-street, do. " Hanover" — Independent, Church- street, a moderate sized building, cemented, with a large general burying ground, most beautifully laid out with flowers and shrubs. " Bethesda,"' Independent, in do., has a lidi, but rather heavy Erecthean Ionic front, and an organ. ** Pro- vidence," in do. " Salem" — Baptists, Bond-street. " Friends,* Ship-street " Unitarian," New-road, has a light and el^;ant fluted Athenian Doric portico. ** Huntingdoniao,'' Loa- don-road, a neat building. " Bethel," West-street, with a reference to fishermen. " Zion," Upper Bedford-street. "Ebe- nezer," Baptists, Richmond-hill ; and two or three very small or temporary ones. Several of these have schools and charities connected with them. The " Roman Catholic Chapel"" has hitherto been a very humble and crowded edifice in High-street ; a new one is now erecting near Kemp Town ; the interior will be airy, but its external appearance is too low, and the Corinthian pilasters are disproportionately heavy. The *' Jews' Synagogue"" is a plain building in Devonshire- place, New Ste3me. CotDtt j^sHh In speaking of the erection and expense of this building, we unavoidably trench on a subject with which, as a visitor, we have personally no business whatever ; and in pursuing it, we are fully aware of the obloquy always incurred by merging, in the least, even with the most undeniably good intentions, in the disputes of others : we allude to the public expenditure of Brighton during the last few years, in which upwards of 100,000/. has been laid out in works of a goieral character, 80,000/. of which has been bestowed on the ediflce now in question. The less we say, therefore, the better ; whilst we 112 COAST OF SUSSEX. desire that little to be after the honest herring-bone fashion of the Manks*. It is impossible, too, in the chequered inquiry into human motives, to ascertain how far, and in what in- stances, the feeling on either side has been conscientious or in- vidious. The best will be to " make the best" of it, and, as most likely neither party will deny that there are both *' faults'" and ** much to be said" on both sides, to try and unite, as far as they may, to settle the matter quietly and for the generfd good ; for the honour and credit of their town in the eyes of visitors, and for their own greater prosperity and harmony. . We find it very difficult to speak of this building as a whole, because some parts are decidedly handsome and noble, others as certainly bad ; but we fear that, on the summary, the balance will decline on the side of condemnation. Its principal fault is its huge and rambling character ; it is at least twice as large as it need have been. The three porticoes, though grand, are unquestionably not required ; and the face towards the sea, where a fine colonnade would have formed a striking and beautiful object in the prospect of the town, is left blank and plain. The dimensions of the edifice are said to be 144. feet by 113. On the other hand, the double porticoes, com- posed of four fluted Doric columns below, and four Ionic above, with proper entablatures and a pediment, appear to us stately and noble ; and though we hear that architects have sneered at them, we can see no possible grounds for their hard criticism. Doubtless the lower colonnade has not the project- ing breadth of that at the west end of St. Paul's, but then the nature of the front did not require it. The angles of the upper story and of the wings below have triple antse, with very neat capitals; but the flanking walls between the porticoes are heavy and ugly, sparingly ornamented in the Erecthean style with the honeysuckle, &c, witli very bad windows. In spite of a sure condemnation of our opinion, we should be glad to see a dome, or cupola, or any thing, to break the extenuve square roof of this large .building. There is a bell fnxn the • " Ye shall administer justice between man and man, as evenly as tlie bone* of the herring lies between the two sides."— OatAprMcri&erf to the Deemttert or Judgts \H the JtJe of Man. BUIGHTOK. 113 old Town Hall, which we suppose will be put up, with a clock. Entering at the north side, the staircase is supported by tall antae, which, if there be any rule for this kind of support, must be outrageously out of proportion — we should think not less than fifteen diameters or diagonals; yet the effect is by no means bad. Above is a corridor, with a fine double range of Corinthian pillars, and a flat cove or dome, like the sections of the roof in St. Paul's Cathedral. Nothing can be said against the genei'al effect of this part. The railing of the staircase is a very f)oor and meagre design : it should have been of brass or handsome ii-on-work lightly painted and gilt In the lower story are various offices for the magistrates, commissioners, directors of the poor, &c., and underneath, dungeons for tem- porary confinement, said to be dreary enough, and, if ever to be used, not particularly appropriate to the present day. The great room below is a market. On the second story is a very capacious room for the petty sessions, large enough for the county assizes, an object partly contemplated when it was erected ; some smaller rooms, for the magistrates' private sittings, handsomely fitted up; and a room for the commis- sioners beyond, towards the south, with galleries on each side on fluted columns, which, though handsome, is said to be very inconvenient. The third story has in the centre the assembly room, which may be pronounced, on the whole, to be hand- some, though the Corinthian pilasters might have been h'ghter, and their capitals are after a most eccentric fashion, having only their lower parts foliated, which may remind the spectatcn: of a gentleman in full dress, — without his coaL The ceiling is massive and flat, with sunk panels handsomely decorated. From the balcony at the east end is a view of the town and sea in a striking and novel light, which alone will repay the visitor for his ascent. I^onal i^abilion. EXTERIOR. As we have the grateful privilege of introducing our readers' to the interior beauties of this grand and elegant p>alace, we shall the less dwell on its exterior, because it is known not only by personal observation to the visitors of Brighton, but by some species of description or delineation to almost all the inhabitants of the kingdom ; yet we must apprise them that the generality of views so far come short of a just appreciation, that they may almost be termed, by comparison at least, caricatures. It is a building of great length, and of a depth not clearly discernible except in the inside. The garden-front *, facing the Steyne, consists, in effect, of three pavilions, connected by two ranges of building; the centre has the large bulbous-shaped dome, so much resembling those of the churches in the Kremlin at Moscow, and flanked by minarets, consisting of open cupolas on tall pillars. The external pavilions have large pagoda spires, tapering to a point from a broad base, and very com- manding in their appearance ; these have also flanking mina- rets, and there are two smaller domes on each of the connecting vrings. The height of the centre dome is 130 feet; in frcmt is a semi-circular colonnade, and a long flat one to each of the farther pavilions. The general aspect of this front is rather Indian or Persian than Chinese ; when examined in detail, it will be found very beautiful. The opposite, or western front of the Pavilion, is nearly similar, but has a centre projecting rather more in advance, with a neat square portico, supported by pillars. • See vignette on title-page. ROYAL FAVII.ION. 115 INTERIOR. Having been favoured by Sir Herbert Taylor with an ex- press permission to take a full survey of the interior of this magnificent palace, and having received every civility and assistance in her power from the lady in charge of the same. Miss Lovatt, we can only regret that scarcely any degree of time, taste, or opp>ortunity will do justice to the various attrac- tions and ornaments of so unique and beautiful a place ; the reader must, therefore, be content with that modicum of in- formation which it is in our power to afford him, whilst we assure him, however, that it has been a work of zeal, and executed con amore. We know, for we have personally met with it as well as read of it, that an idea has been not sparingly disseminated of the Pavilion's being characterized by frivolity or gaudiness — a " Fancy," or a *' Folly," in which costliness is more eminent than taste or beauty. We do not dissemble this circumstance ; on the contrary, we draw it forward boldly, because we can have the pleasure of offering it the most decided contradiction ; and, if the reader will believe us to speak candidly, wc assure him, in simple terms, that it is no such thing. The Pavilion is enriched with the most magnificent ornaments and the gayest and most splendid colours ; yet all is in keeping, and well relieved. There is positively nothing glaring or gaudy, and the person who would quarrel with its richness might as reasonably do so with the flowers of the parterre — the lively carnation or painted tulip. It is true that the architectural taste of some may be averse to the adoption of the Chinese and Oriental style, yet by us, who have " some little turn that way," it has been deemed on inspection to possess capabilities of beauty not inferior to the graceful Ionic, stately Corinthian, or elaborate florid Gothic. And whilst the King of Saxony has his Japanese Palace, the Emperor of Austria his FavoritOy and he of Russia his fanciful palaces of heterogeneous outline, whilst the Sovereign of England has in addition the noble and regular Gothic pile of Windsor, and the Roman palaces of i3 116 COAST OF SUSSKX. London, we do not see why, if only for the sake of variety, he should not have his Oriental Marine Pavilion. It also recalls to us one branch of that mighty continental influence which we wield, it may be hoped and trusted for the general hap- piness and benefit. The King of England is almost " defado" King of India ; and, therefore, may we not say without fan- ciful exaggeration, that an eastern jjalace, placed on the sh»te side are actually of that material, covered with fine yellow marble slabs. There are various painted lanterns, Chinese cabinets. J 18 CO^ST OK SUSSEX. with rare China vases and figures ; and the carpet, of English manufacture, is handsome and appropriate. We must not omit to mention a great number of chairs and couches of ivory variegated with black, the history of which we do not know, but they are abundantly curious. At the outset, however, we deem it right to apprise the reader that we have not by any means attempted to give him a fair description of all the multiplied and separate ornaments of the various apartments; in fact, we considered that it would derogate from the detail of their grand and principal embellishments and proportions. Something must be left to his imagination ; and should he discover many lesser beauties on which to dwell, unnoticed by us, he must not suppose that we did not see or admire them. Beyond the gallery, to the north, are several smaller and more domestic apartments, which the visitor is allowed to see ; but we do not dwell on them ; they are generally characterised by neatness and consistency: among them is the sleeping room of his late Majesty George IV., which is not luxurious; and near it are baths supplied from the sea. Into the centre of the gallery opens the ENTRANCE HALL, which leads out of a neat vestibule adjoining the western portico, containing a polished brass stove. The hall is a square apartment, the walls pale green, painted in fresco, in a very subdued style. At the entrance, which slopes into the vestibule with a tented roofed recess, are two oriental columns, and above, a long horizontal sky-light of green and white ; the chimney-piece is of white marble, and there are four Chinese lamps. This room seems in some measure designed as a quiet contrast, or introduction, to the more splendid apartments. THE BREAKFAST ROOM is a pretty summer apartment of considerable length, its roof supported by two bamboo pillars with trellis work. The walls are crimson japan, ornamented with a number of small Chinese paintings, all tending to a light blue colour. In a recess is a magnificent sideboard of extensive dimensions. We now return to the principal suite of State Apartments^ aoYAL PAVILION. 119 and enter a range said to be unparalleled in Europe. The first is that exquisite structure THE DINIXG OR BANQUETING ROOM. 60 feet long, 42 wide, and 45 high. Popular opinion has given the supreme rank to the music room, placing this in the second rank : we cannot agree in the decision ; splendid as we allow the other to be, there is some- thing more than beauty or grandeur in this ; it is transcendantly graceful and even lovely: it is not merely oriental, still less barbaric, richness ; it is a quiet and chaste beauty, which is almost intellectual. When we add summarily that the coup (Tceil of this room is that of walls of raother-of-pearl, with historic groups in rich enamels, varied by candelabra, like blue lapis lazuli, surmounted by white glass lilies*, and immense * We imagine the beautiful forms of lilies in the candelabra and lustres to be the nelumbium, a flower which differs fiom the lotus, the latter being a plant or tree. Of these and some other Chinese flowers and shrubs we extract an account from the work of Dr. Clarke Abel, F.L.S., naturalist to Lord Amherst's embassy, a gentleman whom we had once the pleasure of knowing. " The Chinese appeared to have confined their attempts at ornament to their yards, which contained plants of various species. The el^ant Ipo- maca quamoclet, trained on small frames of trellis work, was from its frequent culture obviously a favourite. The Begonia Evansiana, largo- Straemia Indica, Nerium oblander. Lychnis coronata, and Tradescandji cristata were abundantly cultivated in pots, together with a species of Dianclla with purple flowers, of Hibiscus, and of Plumbago; which, I could not determine. But, cultivated and prized above all others, appeared the Nelumhivm speciosum the Lien-wha of the Chinese. This splendid flower, celebrated for its beauty by the Chinese poets, and ranked for its virtues among the plants which, according to Chinese theology, enter into the beverage of immortahty, flourished in the greatest vigour in the gardens of Tung-Chow. It was raised in capacious vases of water, con- taining gold and silver fish, supported on stands a few feet from the ground. These were surroundetl by steps of different elevation, supporting other plants mingled with artificial rocks, representing a hilly coimtry, and covered with diminutive houses, pagodas, and gardens. In this situaticm the Nelumbium was certainly an object of exceeding beauty. Its tulip- like blossoms of many petals tinted with the most delicate pink, hung over its fan-like leaves, floated on the surface of the water, or rising oo long footstalks of unequal height, bent them into elegant currea, and shaded with graceful festoons the plant beneath. " The Nelumbium is used by the Chinese to decorate lakes and other ornamental water, and to give a charm and productiveness to marges 120 COAST OF SUSSEX. chandeliers of numerous Mowers in silvery glass, we can, per- haps, afford some faint idea of the effect it is calculated to produce. It is a palace for Diana, or some lovely and bene- ficent fairy who is favourable to virtue. We scarcely know where to begin a more sober description, but may as well state, in the fiist instance, that the ceiling has a spacious and lofty dome, nearly occupied by a painted Plan- tain tree, from which hangs the principal lustre, which is thirty feet from top to bottom. The rise of the dome i> handsomely scaled with whitish green and gold, and rests on four elliptical arches, with golden columns ; beneath is a painted and gilt cornice, with bells ; the oblong paialed windows, each in five divisions, under the dome, resemble, as we conceive, the Persian style, — circles in lozenges, blue, with gold centres and radiated edges, in some degree resembling the convolvulus flower. The north and south sides have recesses with tented roofs, looped up with scarlet and gold. The comer lustres are sustained by magnificent birds, with large feathered tails. The two white marble chimney-pieces have respectively a thermo- meter and time-piece, one of which imitates a sun-flower, and the other has very finely executed groups of figures. The side-boards, as appropriate to a dining-room, are of rich rose- wood, ornamented with or-molu and Chinese emblems. The walls of the room, which are twenty-three feet high to the cornice, constitute that exquisite series of ornaments which we have before alluded to. They form eleven compartments of large size, three of them on the east side much more con- siderable than the rest ; they are all Ixirdered with trellis- work of scarlet and gold, and this again is surrounded by blue and silver paper, imitating enamel. Besides these, there are several narrow ones, containing single figures, and also Chinese standards, hung with banners and {xjnnons, and guarded at the otherwise unsightly and barren. Near Yuen- Ming- Yuen, and under the walls of Pekiii, I saw it covering with pink and yellow blossoms large tracts of land, and could sympathise with the enthusiasm of the Chinese bards, who have sung of the deUght of moonlight excursions on rivers covered with the flowering Lien-wha." — Aber* Amherst'* Embassy to China. 1816. BOYAL PAVTLIOX. 121 feet by dragons. The ground of all these oompartments is the most wonderful imitation of mother-of-ptarl that can possibly be imagined, — it may be even touched, and the deceptioa scarcely perceived- The substance on which it is executed is canvas, but by what curious process it is effected, we are unable to guess. When the sun shines on it, the appearance is beautiful, and we imagine it must be equally so when the dazzling lamps are lighted. The pictures in these divisirais represent diflerent scenes in the domestic manners of the Chinese* : — feasting, receiving guests, playing with children^ * KANNEBS AND CUSTOMS OF THK CHOTEBBL " Of the air and physiognomy of the Cktmaef tkeir Jadtionw, kouses, andjitmitmre. " We should make a wrongjudgmeatof the air and physkgnomyof the Chinese, if we gave credit to the pictures that we see on their japanned work and china-ware; if they are successful in painting flowers, tree^ animals, and landscapes, they are very ignorant in drawing manlHTui^ maiming and disfiguring themselves in sudi a manner, that they are hardly to be known, and may justly be taken for grotesque figures. " It is, nevertheless, true that beauty depends upon taste, and that it consists more in imagination than reality ; they have a notion of it little different from that of the Europeans, for, generally speaking, that which seems beauliful to us is agreeable to thar taste, and that which ^pean beautiful to tliem appears likewise equally so to lis ; that which they chiefly admire, as making a perfect beauty, is a large forehead, diort nose, small eyes, a visage large and square, broad and large ears, the mouth middle* sized, and the hair black, for they cannot bear to see it ydlow, or red; however, there must be a certain symmetry and proportion between aU the parts, to render them agreeable. " A fine easy shape is not thought to have any charms among them, because their garments are large, and do not sit so close as those of the Europeans ; they think a man welt-made when he is large and fat, and fills his chair handsomdy. " Their complexion is not what has been nsnaOy represented by those who have seen only tlie southern parts of China ; for it most be owned, that the excessive heats which prevail there, espedaDy in Quantong, Fokein, and Yunnan, give the mechanics and peasants an olive or brown complexion ; but in the other provinces, they are naturally as whiie as the Eoropeana^ «nd, generally speaking, their physiognomy has nothing disagreeable. " Among the charms of the sex, the smallness of their feet is not the least; when a female infant comes into the world, the nurses are very careful to bind their feet very close, for fear they should grow too large. The Chinese ladies aie subject all their lives to this constraint, whidh tbej were accustomed to in their infancy, and tbdr gait is slow, unsteady, and disagreeable to foreigners ; yet such is the force o£ custom, that they not 122 COAST OF SDSBEX. music, gardening, introduction, and love making, &c. &c. And it should be observed, that these are not merely Fresco paint- ings, such as are often seen in England, but highly finished pictures^ displaying much interesting character, and pleasing to the feelings : for this reason we have called this room irUet- only undergo this inconvenience readily, but they increase it, and endeavour to make their feet as little as possible, thinluiig it an extraordinary chann, and always affecting to diow them as they walk. " However, they have, generally speaking, the common vanity of the sex, and though they are not to be seen but by their domestics, they spend . sevend hours every morning in dressing and adorning themselves. Their head-dress consists of several curls, interspersed with little tufts of gold and silver floweiB. " There are some who adorn their heads with the figure of a bird called Fong-boang, a fabulous bird, of which antiquity speaks many mysterioua things. This bird is made of copper, or silver gilt, according to the condi- tion of the person ; its wings, extended, lie pretty close on the fore-part of their head-dress, and embrace the upper part of their temples; its long spreading tail makes a sort of plume on the middle of the head, the body is directly over the forehead, the neck and beak fall down upon the nose, but the neck is joined to the body of the animal by a hinge which does not appear, to the end that it may easily play and answer to the least motion of the head. The whole bird Ues chiefly upon the head, and the claws are fixed in the hair. A\'omen of the first quality have generally an onumoent of several of these birds united together, which makes a sort of crown ; the workmanship alone of this ornament is extremely dear. Generally the young ladies wear a kind of crown made of paste-board, and covered with fine silk ; the fore part of this crown rises in a point above the fore- bead, and is covered with pearls, diamonds, and other ornaments; the upper part of the head is adorned with flowers, either natural or arti- ficial, mixed with Uttle bodkins, the ends of which shine with jewels. AV'omen advanced in years, especially those of the common sort, are contented with a piece of fine silk, wrapt several times round the head, which they call Pao-teou, that is to say, a wrapper to the head. " That which sets off" the natural charms of the Chinese kdiea, u the oncoounon modesty which appears in their looks and their dress ; their gowns are very long, and cover them from head to foot in such a manner, that nothing appears but their face. Their hands are always concealed under wide long sleeves, that would almost drag on the ground if they were not careful to lift them up. The colour of their garments is various, either red, blue, or green, according to their fancy ; none but ladiet ad« ▼anced in years wear violet* or black." — Du Halde. * Dark blue and riolet, is the mourning of the East. " that dark blue dreaa Bokhara's maidens wear in rooumfulnesa." LaUa Rookk. ROYAL PAVILION. 123 lectual. The Chinese physiognomy and costume, as liere repre- sented, is any thing but unpleasing : many of the representatioDS are very pretty. A lady and a little boy looking at flowers^ ENTERTAINMKNTB. " The streets were narrow, regular, and paved with large stones brou^t from some distance. ^^Tiatever taste belongs to Chinese architecture seems chiefly directed to the roofs, the pediments are in general elegant and highly decorated. Dwelling-houses were of one story, built of soUd bride work. We crossed a bridge, over the river, the surface of which was scarcely visible from junks. " In the Hall of Reception itself was little to remark ; indeed it had altogether the appearance of a temporary erection. We dined at the upper end, and the lower was occupied by the stage. Chinese dinners with the succession of dishes served upon trays, one of which is placed before one or two persons, according to their rank, have been so accuratdy described, that I shall not pretend to enter into any detail. The custard, and the preserved fruits with which the dinner commenced were very palatable; I cannot say that I much liked the bird-nest soup, it was too gelatinous and insipid for my taste ; nor did the various additions of shrimps, ^gs, &c. improve the compound ; the shark fins were not more agreeable. The Chinese eat as well as drink to each other, and a Mandarin, who stood bdiind us, regulated tlie times of commencement, both in the dishes and cups of wine. The wine was heated, and had not an unpleasant flavour: it is not unlike sherry. The dresses of the actors, and the stage decoradons, were very splendid, and there was noise and bustle enough to satiate the eyes and ears. Even those who understood Chinese were not able to trace any story in the performance, which seemed to be more ofthenatureof a mekn drama than comic or tragic representation. The part of a stag was the best performedin the piece, and when in front of the stage, from the shdter afforded by a group of flag bearers, and the consequent concealment of the boy's legs, illusion was sufiiciently perfect. The instnunental music, from its re- semblance to the bagpipes, might have been tolerated by Scotchmen, to others it was detestable. Of the same description was the dnging. Our admiration was justly bestowed on the tumblers, who yidd to none I have ever seen in strength and agiUly ; their feats were executed with particolar neatness. In splendour of appearance, the Mandarins did not stand any competition with the actors, who were blazing with gold; it was suggested that their costumes were tbe andent habits of the nation. The dress of ceremony of the Mandarins, consisting of blue gauze or crape, with some flowered satin beneath, is plain and not unbecoming; an embroidered badge, marking thdr rank, whether dvil or military, is fixed apon their robe before and behind- The Peacock's feather, or more properly tail of Peacock's feather, answering to our orders of knighthood, is worn bdiind ; two of these decorations are equivalent to the garter." — Eilis't AmhersfM Embassy to China, 181S. TRAVELUNS. " The lai^^ waggons are covered with matting, and are not anHke • tilt cart ; tliey are drawn by five mules or horses, in general tbe latter; the 124 COAST OF 8CS8EX. and a bird of paradise *, are amongst these, as is also a child, playing with one of the tame or charmed snakes. In the centre great compartment, on the east side, is a Chinese bride being conducted home, carried in a palanquin by bearers richly dressed, with a parasol canopy over her head, and a peacock by her side. Three boys in front are respectively carrying a blue banner, and playing on the pi|>e and cymbals. The pearl ground is also worked in oriental patterns, and the doors of the room resemble rich mother-of-pearl, with gold emboss- ments in the Japanese style. The carpet is of Axminster manufacture ; and on the west side are five handsome windows, with silk and gold draperies. The whole of the windows in this front are very handsome and tasteful ; lofty, and termi- nating in the arabesque arch ; the large panes of plate glass, set in frames of dark wood, with rich gold beadings, and borders of amber-coloured glass, and the upper parts are painted. THE GEEEN, OK AKTE-DRAWING-ROOM, 60 feet long and 20 wide, SO called, from the colour of its pale striped draperies, is, like the other drawing-room beyond the saloon, a domestic apartment; though very handsome, possessing all the quiet comfort of a private residence. The walls are white and gold in broad borders, with a suitable cornice, and the chimney-pieces carts for personal accommodation are much smaDer, drawn by single mtiles, and hold one person without difficulty, but are extremely inconvenient from their being without springs. The mules are particularly fine, and the better sort of horses resemble the smaller sized Turkoman." — EUis't China. * CHINESE BIBD0. " In the southern provinces there are parrots of all sorts, exactly r&- sembhng those brought from America. They have the same plumage, and the same aptness for talking, but they are not comparable to the bird called Kniki or Golden Hen : there is no species in Europe anything like it. The Uveliness of the red and yellow, the plume on tlie head, the delicate shadowing of the tail, the variety of colours of the wings, together with a well-shaped body, have doubtless given occasion for the epithet of Golden conferred on this fowl, to show its preference over the most valuable of the feathered kind ;— besides, the fiesh is more delicate than that of a pheasant, so that on all accounts not one of the eastern birds can be more desirable than this in our European coimtries."— Du Halde. BOYA^ PAVILION. 1S5 white marble and gilt bronze, with grates, as in all the other rooms, of polished steel and or molu. On the east side are four tall Chinese ewers, considered as very recherche: they are of sea-green, embossed with handles, approaching to the Egyptian form, imitating gold cordage. THE SALOON, S& Jeet lotig and 30 widCf forms the grand centre of the eastern suite, and is of circular shape, with coved recesses to the north and south, and a large dome clouded in a light and cheerful manner, painted also with a gorgeous dragon with silver and gold flowered wings, enwreathed by crimson and green serpents. From this depends a spiral lustre, expanding to the base, eighteen feet in height: at the angles are smaller lustres. The elliptical recesses have silver plantains on their ceilings, and pilasters with fancy capitals, somewhat like the Corinthian, enclosing in an upright panel a golden lotus tree. The chimney- piece, a stately one, of white marble and or molu, has fine Oriental niches containing figures : around the room are also many splendid cabinets with niches and recesses, lined with mirrors, and containing figures and jars, &c. Over the chimney- piece is an immense mirror, and in front a splendid time-piece of green and gold, with couchant monsters. The doors are in imitation of mother-of-pearl, embossed with gold, and the hangings throughout crimson and gold-flowered satin in com- partments, with silver paper edgings : the ottomans, chairs, and window draperies are in accordance, the latter relieved by blue silk and gold. The carpet, of Axminster work, is of a circular pattern to suit the direction of the room*. * The carpets were rolled up, and the lustres muffled when we biw the rooms, but we were enabled to form an idea of their appearance when di*- played. We may here, once for all, mention what is deserving of re- membrance, that almost all the ornaments and furniture of the Pavilion, excepting some Oriental rarities, are of English manufacture, which wa« an object by no means neglected by the late king. This drcomstance should be remembered in an extenuating Ught by those who complain of George the Fourth's profusion. If the fountain of regal munificence bunt 1S6 COAST OF SITSSKX. THE YELLOW DKAWlNG-ROOlf, 60 feet by 90, is very similar in appearance to the first Drawing- Room, but rather richer : the draperies, &c., are of striped satin ; the walls panelled in white with handsome gold borders, and the criling supported by two white and gold oriental columns, wreathed with serpents, and capped by a canopy with bells. The chimney-piece is of Oriental porphyry, or some substance much resembling it in appearance. THE Jf tJSIC ROOMy eZfeet long, 42 uride, and 41 higty forms the north wing, and is the most splendid apartment in the palace, dividing the praise of beauty with the Banqueting- room. This might have been the fitting dwelling of the magnificent and courteous Fairy Pari-Banouy of the Arabian Nights. Like the former, it has a fine dome, thirty feet in diameter, with a projecting cornice and painted windows ; but the walls are on a very different plan, being wholly covered with crimson and gold Japan, representing Chinese scenery, said to be taken from actual examples in the neighbourhood oS that far-famed but little known metropolis, Pekin*. The forth with rather too heedless impetuosity, its waters, on readiing the level, branched out in Tarious meandering and fertilizing streams into the quiet retirements of labour and industry ; and the resources of many a poor family have been even kindly supplied by the expense bestowed on die decorations of a palace. Great and severe economy on the part of • monarch, as well as his superior and more wealthy nobles, would be a l m oa t a crime : — they have fredy received, and should fredy give. • VlCnnTT OF PKKIK. ** We left our quarters at five o'clock, and took the same road as on die day we risited Ho. After having skirted the walls of the city, in many plaees out of repair, we came upon the paved granite road leading to Pekin. One mile from Tong-chou ^c crossed a large bridge, with a sing^ arch jmt large enough to admit a small barge just pasring through. The view from the bridge was exceedingly striking; the pagoda and watch-tower formed beautiful objects in the distance, while the banks were prettily diTcrsified with cultivation and clumps of trees. Near sunset we passed a wall at good masonry, which seemed to inclose a handsome paric ; small pavilions near the road, open on all sides, with higlily-decorated roofs, arrested oar attention, as characteristic architecture in tlieir best style, and almoit good taste: they are said to be commemorative of individual worthineaa. I could ROY A I. PAVILIOK. 127 borders of the large compartments are trellis- work of pale blue and bamboo, with large dragon ornaments at the comers, and the coved roofs of the recesses of bamboo tied with ribbons- The cornice under the dome, which forms an octagon, and projects in the style of a running canopy, is of scarlet and gold, and has rich ornaments and bells. Eight dliptical painted windows, so contrived as to be occasionally illuminated from without, decorate the cove; and in their minutely varied hues remind us of that pretty toy of some years back, the *' Kaleidoscope." The cornice is supported both by scarlet en-. wreathed columns, painted in perspective, and also by slander cord-like ones of gold. The swell of the dome has scale-work in what is termed ** green gold," a combination which produces a happy effect. A magnificent foliated ornament at the apex supports the great lustre, displaying the form of a pagoda connected with an immense lotus. There are eight other not determine all the animals represented by the scolptnre; some were certainly lions. — " Pekin is situated in a plain ; its lofty walls, with their namenms bastions and stupendous towers, certainly give it an imposing appearance^ not unworthy the capital of a great empire. On the side near Hai-teen we crossed a large common, wholly uncultivated ; a remarkable drcumstanoe so near Pekin. There are large tracts of ground covered with the ndoin- briiun, or water-lily, near the walls, which, from the luxuriant v^etatioD of this plant, are extremely grateful to the eye. The Tartarean mountains, with their bine and immeasurable summits, arc the finest objects in the vicinity of Pekin ; to many of the party the streets of Pekin might be the great points of attraction, but to myself a visit to this stupoidoas range would be a source of much hi^er gratification.' — E/lit's Amkertta Emt- bauy, 1816. THE GARDENS OF TCEN-MINO-VUEN, KKAM PEUH. " The morning was fine, and opened to us a seme of novdty and beanty. After traveUing, since leaving Takoo, through an uninterrupted flat of two himdred miles, remarkable neither for its prodncdons or cultivation, we beheld unusual charms in the hills, trees, and floweis which snrroonded Ob Fields of nelumbo, rearing high its glossy leaves and gorgeous flowex^ edged by trees with the foliage of the cassia, spread at our feet, whilst the Tartar mountains, approximated by the haze of the morning, rose in the distance. All the descriptions which I had ever heard of the paradisaical delight of Chinese gardens occurred to my imagination, but in imagine tion only was I allowed to enjoy them. Acts of fraud, tyranny, and vio- lence speedily effaced the first rising of pleasurable emotion." — AbtT* Voyage to China, 1816. 1^ COAST OF sossex. lustres of much beauty in this room, and a great number of Pagodas of china and glass, manufactured in England, four of which are fifteen feet in height. The organ built by Limoln in 1818, unquestionably one of the most powerful, yet sweet-toned ones in England, stands on the north side, but its gilded front alone appears, inlaid in the wall ; the instrument itself, which is about twenty feet deep, stands in a separate room behind. '* Its compass is from C. C. C. with a double diapason throughouL"" It has three rows of keys, twenty-eight stops, and twenty pedals. Over the chimney-piece is a very grand mirror, about twelve feet by eight, with a gilded canopy supported by columns : in front is a time-piece of curious and elaborate pattern. The chimney-piece, executed by Weslmacotly is by far the most stately in the Pavilion, and has a really noble effect : the project- ing sweep of cornice is supported on the wings of an expanding dragon, and the massive, though short, oriental columns, with elaborately carved capitals, and still larger bases of inverted lotus, &c. &c. ai'e in the best possible style, reminding the spectator of the grand conceptions of Martin. From some remaining examples, and hints derived from recondite sources, this is supposed to have been actually the style which pre- vailed some thirty centuiies ago, in ancient Babylon and Persepolis. %• THE PALACE CHAPEL* is a very spacious and handsome apartinent, eiglity feet by forty. The royal seat is splendidly adorned with or titolu or- naments and crimson velvet ; the organ is a very fine one, and the communion plate is of gold. The chaplain is the Rev. Dr. Everard. * That we did not see the chapd and some other adjuncts of the palace was not owing to our own neglect, or to any deficiency in the obliging and condescending order we received, or any want of courteousness on the part of Miss Lovatt. There must, of course, have t>cen minor indvihty to impede U8, but we shall not particnlarise it. HOYAL PAVILION. 129 *,• THE STABLES AND RIDING-HOUSE, at the north-west angle of the palace grounds, fof m a large and ini{X)sing pile. The interior of the stables, whose outward ap- pearance is octagonal, is a magnificent circular area of 250 feet, with a dome in the centre eighty-eight feet in diameter, and, after St. Paul's, one of the largest in England. Into this area the suites of stables, which will accommodate seventy horses, open. There are also other projecting buildings, and a large square court-yard for carriages. The long front towards Church-street, ornamented by large windows and minarets, is now completed by the erection of the east wing. The riding-house and tennis.- court are each 200 feet by fifty. The spacious dome is a handsome object in every view of the town. Moresque is the term usually conferred on the architecture of this edifice ; but we imagine it possesses some features exliibited in the build- ings of Hindostan. ENTRANCES. The southern entrance was erected in 1831, opening intd Castle-square and East-street. It is a very neat erection, but is, at least by comparison, not much admired. Minarets se- parate it into three divisions : the centre has the archway, which is of handsome and suitable appearance, but the side di\'isions are rather too much broken by small windows, which gives the whole the appearance of a house. The northern gate-house, finished in 1832 (represented in our Plate), is a noble and faultless building, exhibiting every characteristic of boldness and stateliness. The crowning dome, in the style of the central one of the Pavilion, the substantial centre minarets, and the light fluted ones at the wings, with the rich fret-work of the arch and turrets, are all excellent of their kind, and leave nothing to be desired. 130 COAST OF SUSSEX. STEYNE. Every one to whom the name of Brighton is familiar has heard of " The Steyne," formerly its sole fashionable pro- menade, and as intimately identified with its gay renown as Bond-street, Ranelagh, or the Pantheon with that of London in the last century. But, like the latter, it has been shorn of its beams, and by new and usurping comets in the horizon re- duced to a minor twinkler. Still, though in a great measure thrust from its place by the Marine Parade, it continues to possess the same advantages, and as a thoroughfare is traversed by continual groups of every description, not omitting the most genteel. The closing of Lucomb's library was a sad cloud over its gaiety, especially in summer evenings. The building has been refitted as a bazaar of a splendid character, and doubtless deserving of notice ; but such an establishment has a much less forcible attraction. The oblong space of the Steyne has two inclosures surrounded by iron rails, and a spacious bricked pavement, nearly twenty feet wide. The air is very fine ; and the effect of the spacious level, opening at the sea, and terminating beyond the town, very interesting. In the inclosure nearest the palace is a bronze statue of George IV., by Chantrey., on a jaedestal nine feet in height, erected in 1828, by a subscription of 30002!. THE NORTH STEYNE, In the continuation of the level, is a new oblong enclosure extending to that of the new church ; it is laid out in a style similar to the squares in the metropolis. Beyond the new church, to the left, is the London road, which for nearly half the distance to Preston, one mile, is bordered by houses ; those on the left side are neatly built, in the cottage or villa style, with small gardens, and are desirable to those by whom cheapness must be studied in the first instance. At the other angle of the Steyne is the road to Lewes ; on the right hand are some handsome villas, and on the left a spacious open track in a wild state, used as a play or cricket-ground by the Iwys of the town. liRTGRTOV. 131 THE ROYAL GARDENS, KOW THE ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS. Before we had the advantage, or the misfortune (for we do not exactly know which it will turn out), to have visited Brighton, these gardens were, properly speaking, pleasure gardens, like the famed " Dandelion" of Margate, a mimic Vauxhall or Tivoli, though of a more quiet character. They comprised bowling greens, a fives' court, cricket ground, tea- boxes, an aviary, a Merlin's swing, a maze, &c., &c., a large ball-room, and occasional small temporary erections for that purpose; public breakfasts, &c., were also sometimes held. All this has passed away, and we regret it exceedingly ; not that Zoological Gardens have been established within the limits of the town, but that they have superseded the former, which were compelled to be abandoned, and that the industrious and deserving author, Mr. Ireland, lost some thousands of pounds by the speculation, and is now in reduced circumstances, after having certainly conferred some benefit on the town. All this is not as it should be : if the very existence of such a thing as liberality be allowed in the present day but that sleeps, and is likely to do so, either till happier times come (which pitying Heaven soon grant!), or tiU the minds of the public open themselves to more generous feelings. We would give it a push, or even a slight goad, to rouse it, if we could, but that we fear " 'Twould do no good, but ' tctce wana.'" The dull spirit, now like a " lazy lubber fiend," would onlv growl and snap at us. Our business now, however, is with the zoological establish' ment, and no blame attaches to its proprietors for taking up what others had been compelled to leave. It occupies the same beautifully disposed grounds, with many improvements, at present only in their infancy *. The large cricket ground * By comparing the plans, we think it will have a similarity of appeanuic* to the estubiiithment on Primrose JJiil, but that of Brighton is deficient in amount. K « ISS COAST OF 8USSKX. before the gardens is now taken into the plan, and a new cricket ground elsewhere has been assigned to the late pn>> prietor, Mr. Brown, who still keeps the inn at the south-west angle. A neat but not very handsome gate has been erected facing the level. The large ball room, eighty feet by thirty, at the entrance of the gardens, is to be orientalisedy to cor- respond with some other erections of a smaller character, for beasts and birds. The gardens remain nearly in th^ original state. At the entrance is a sunk, circular bowling-green, be- yond which is an aviary of rustic-work, representing a Giothic building with three aisles ; from hence commences a beautiful avenue of small trees, terminated by a narrow canal or ditch, and a bridge, leading to a Saxon tower, which, if it had been a little higher, would have had an admirable effect ; it has a battery of six small cannon. The maze beyond the tower terminates the gardens ; but on either ade are other walks and lawns, also a grotto, tent, basin of water, &c. &c- The band of the regiment stationed in Brighton plays on one after- noon in the week for two hours in the bowling-green, when there is a fashionable promenade. Balls for thejniddle classes were formerly held, with coloured lamps, fireworks, &c. The collection of animals is at present small, and kept in a temporary place, but is very well managed. It consists of two young tigers, two fine leopards*, a panther, hyaena, a lynx, two Russian bears, foreign goats, deer, lamas, monkeys, &c. &c. The lion-f- and the elephant are still wanting. A boa oon- * It is not generally known, but we have it on the testimony of a person who watched them by passing the night in a tree in India, that several of this tribe* but especially the leopard, or cheetah, when at ease in their own haunts, purr like the domestic cat. f Few descriptions of the lion are more beautifully correct and striking than one contained in an eccentric but, in some parts, noUe poem. Smart's " Song to David" :— " Strong is the lion ! like a coal His eyeball ; like a battiom'M wtcit His breast against his foes." Havini^ had the honour of a visiting acquaintance with " His Majestj of Alysore," a British-bom lion, who, however, on one occasion, was near inflict- ing capital punishment upon us, by mistake for a less courteous visitor, who had insulted him, we can speak, from actual contact, of the regal proportioos. BRIGHTON. 13d stricter is the only curiosity of that class. There is a beautififi -assortment of birds, paroquets, cockatoos, macaws, &c. &c. &c. Subscription to the Zoological Gardens is one guinea the year, or one shilling the day. [Immediately after the above was written, we saw that the proprietor of the Zoological Gardens was also a bankrupt ! ! !] PARK. " O Proserpina, For the flowers now tbat frighted thou let'st fidl From Dis's waggon ! dafifodils That come before the swallow dares, and take The winds of March with beauty ; violets, dim. But sweeter than the lids of Juno's eyes. Or Cytherea's breath." Winter's Tale. " Sidenim sacros imitata vultus. Quid lates dudum Rosa? delicatnm Effer e tends caput, O tepentis Fiha Codi ! Te semper nubes fiigiant a'^uosge Quas fugiunt albis Zephyri quadiigis; Te semper mulcet Boream Jocantia Aura Favonk" CAsnm *. To the visitor of Brighton, *' in populous city pent," at the genial approach of spring, no resort can be more appropriate than this, or so well calculated as a rich and luxuriant refuge from the dulness and sterility of the surrounding country. Here Nature, new robed in fairy charms, smiles on him after her resurrection from her needful sleep, and "■ The earth, the common air, the skies. To him are opening paradise." In a densely-peopled town, where the extent of garden, to those houses which can in the least claim such an appendage, - is of the most limited character, no idea could have been better than that of enclosing a spacious lawn or shrubbery, presenting a variety of aspects, from the inequality of the ground ; in some * Matthew Casimir Sarbiewski, a Lithuanian palatine, priest, and poet of the reventeentfa centur\-, the purest and most happy imitator of Horace. Editim JSipoMiM r, AryentoraU f UtranburghJ 1803. 134 COAST OF SUSSEX. places ornamented with spontaneous wild-flowers, and in othen trimly and gorgeously fitted out with the refined parterre; and all this open to the visitor on the most moderate terms*. The Park is situated just where the elevation of the Downs commences, and nearly in a line with the back of the New Steyne, from which it is about a quarter of a mile distanL Its principal entrance is thro!igh a neat Roman arch, and the visitor finds a good carriage-road, leading him a course of nearly a mile round its limits, which comprise sixteen acres. This road is edged with flower-beds and a shrubbery, whilst the centre of the park, which inchnes to a hollow form, has more the wild appearance of a meadow, and is diversified by plantations of hazel, mountain-ash, &c. : in one part is a good archery-ground with a rustic arbour or hut. We could occupy much space in dwelling on this pretty spot, but have probably said enough to excite a view of it, when, if no high-flown ideas are entertained, there is little danger of disappointment. It is, of course, an equally agreeable retreat in summer, though the primary vernal attraction we have alluded to has then lost its novelty ; and its seclusion from the bustle and publicity of the town, and fine view of the sea, are always attractive. For family pai'ties and associations it is eminently qualified ; per- haps for others of a more romantic nature ; it would make an admirable scene for one of Wordsworth's love-tales. " That day, the first of* re-onion, That was to teem \nth blest commanion. That day, of balmy April weather, They tarried in the wood together." At the south-western angle of the Park is the GERMAN SPA, a neat building, with an Ionic portico and a separate pleasure- ground. Here are composed the imitative German waters of various kinds and for various purpioses ; Carlsbad, Marienbad • We believe the liberty of walking here and gathering flowers may be ob- tained for 12«. the season ; for a separate visit it is twopence, and for the same consideration the vi&itor may have a nosegay gathered for him, and carry it away. It is a popular resort for servants and children as well as their friends. BRIGHTOX. 135 Spa, Pyrmont, Ems, Seltzler, 4-c ,the invention of Dr. Struve of Dresden, about twelve years ago ; where, and also at Leip- sic and Berlin, similar establishments are in existence. This is a subject on which we are not able to speak, but it is said that they have nearly the virtues of the originals, and that those of Carlsbad in particular have effected the most beneficial results. CHALYBEATE •. This spring is situated behind the western end of the toAvn, and is a pleasant walk of less than half a mile from Brunswick or Regency Squares ; it is also approached from the Western Road, and by a very pleasant footway from above the Old Church, over an intervening hill, which commands a magni- ficent view, and has a very fine air. Before the front of the building is a small lawn, and on the right hand is a pretty Swiss cottage, occupied by a confectioner. The edifice has a neat Ionic colonnade, and a very handsome and airy reading- room — decidedly one of the best in Brighton. The small well or fountain is a few feet below the floor of the right wing, and has a very neat staircase descending to it. At the back of the building is a small lawn surrounded by a shrubbery, which is at present only in its infancy, but may, by gradual improvements, be made a pretty place. Archery-fetes have occasionally been held here, with prizes in a good style, and the attendance of a military band ; private parties also occasionally frequent it. The proprietor has, with a spirit tenfold valuable in Brighton, from its unfortunate rarity f, employed four musicians, who play in a respectable style during some hours of the day. Ad- mittance to the Chalybeate is at 1/. 1*. a year, or Qd. a time. • We tbink it scarcely necessary to infoiro our readers that this word is de- rived from the Greek and Latin chnlybs, " steel," because we suppose them to be rather more awake than the learned doctor, whose servants were engaged in drawing off the water of a pond to catch some of the " finny tribe" (as they are termed by all pretty writers), when a friend came breathlessly to inform him that " they had just discovered a chalybeate;" " O, have they," answered the sage, " well — put it with the othtrfish." f Or is it want of encouragement to honest pains, on the part of the visitor ? It is not easy to distinguish the resi>e(tivc sharon of blame; but that there is a sad dearth of all amusement in the towu canuot be denied. 136 COAST OF SUSSEX. On the hill adjoining the ground is a little sprinkling of wild heath and wooded scenery ; not very superior, to be sure, but still a. gem in the borders of Brighton. The view of the ocean, the harbour of Shorehani, and Worthing Point is very pleasing, and the air so excellent, that this alone is worth a walk to the spot. On the good qualities of this fountain of relief we are also not competent to offer any observations. The visitor will find one or two pamphlets on the subject, but will, perhaps, do well to seek for that of its promulgator, Dr. Relhan. The component parts of the water have some affinity to those of the Tunbridge Wells chalybeate, but are more strongly im- pregnated with iron, as may easily be discovered by the slightest taste. In an extensive variety of cases, where a powerful tonic is required, it is said, in conjunction with sea air and bathing, to have almost worked miracles. NORTH-STREET, LAMPS, PAVEMENT. North-street is the principal thoroughfare of Brighton, but from its irremediable narrowness at the summit of the hill is often most inconveniently crowded. At the entrance opposite the private entrance to the Pavilion, is an open space, called Castle-square; here a spacious street, termed East-street, is a fashionable avenue to the West Cliff. A little further up North-street is the Colonnade, a handsome piazza extending along two sides of the angle formed by the junction of the New-road. Brighton is lighted with gas, but very indifferently ; the individual lights are large and handsome, but much too " few and far between ;" and in some parts the illumination is confided entirely to the private lights of the shops, conse- quently when these are shut up, there is almost total darkness. In some localities, as in Regency-square, the inhabitants have voluntarily incurred the expense of a double number of lamp>s. Some parts of the Sea-range have their foot pavements flagged, but the greater part of the troltoirs are paved with brick, which has a very novel appearance, but not unprepossessing, csj>ecially when it is washed to a deep red by a shower, and contrasts with the narrow curb edging of stone. BBICUTON. 137 BRIGHTON, EAST OF THE STEYNE. At the opening of the Steyne, the Parade is not much above ten feet from the sea ; it rises gently to the Pier, where it is about thirty feet, and subsequently, before reaching Kemp TowTi, attains the height of ninety. Fadng the Steyne is the lodge entrance to the Esplanade, which extends 1250 feet (about a quarter of a mile) to the Pier : it is merely a narrow carriage road and a foot pavement, raised a few feet above the beach and railed in, with a flanking wall above, protecting the Marine Parade. CHAIN PIER, DIEPPE, &c Sec We believe this was the first edifice of the kind in England constructed on piles, the efficiency of which at first excited some doubt, but confidence was secured by information ob- tained, that the batteries erected on piles by the Czar Peter at Cronstadt remained unimpaired to the present day. The in- ventor and architect was Captain Brown, R. N., to whom much praise and gratitude is due ; we sincerely regret to add, for the sake of all concerned, that it has proved a very losing speculation : it is hard that public-spirited individuals should so often, in this vicinity, lose their reward. Some public means, if possible, should be taken to remedy this untoward event. The length of the Brighton Chain Pier is 1130 feet, exactly six-seven ihs of a quarter of a mile*, and width 13 feet. The platform is supported by the chains, which at the south end p>ass 54 feet into the cliff, and are there strongly bolted, from thence passing, with alternate dips, over the towers, they descend into the sea at the furthest extremity, and are im- bedutrd in the rock. The rods, individually slender, by which the platform is hung on the chains, are 362 in number ; and each division of the chain, of which there are four on each side formed^ by the intervention of the towers, has 117 links, each weit'hinff 112 lbs. The piles are four in number, at the distance of 2oS feet : the first three consist of twenty piles • 10t» feet X 6 -r- 7 = llSlf. 138 COAST OF SUSSEX. each, wiih some horizontal and diagonal beams; the fourth, which is the Pier Head, is in the form of a T, and is paved with Purbeck stone, to the weight of 200 tons. The piles here are 150, firmly secured by diagonal ties of great strength. The towers of cast iron, each weighing 15 tons, are 25 feet high from the platform, which is itself 13 feet above high- water mark. In the centres are arches, and the sides are occupied by small shops, tenanted by confectioners, fancy- ware sellers, and a profile artist. The sides of the platform have neat iron railings, and the whole of the iron work in this Pier is painted of a bright green, which has a cheerful effect, Norway fir is the wood used in the piles, which are pitched, and in some places plated with metal, but they are frequently corroded by the water, and removed ; and there is no doubt that the lower part of the Pier will often verify the fate of the Irishman's knife, — very old, — but which had first a new handle, and then a new blade. Below the Pier Head is a gallery, where in a high sea the breaking of the waves may be seen and heard to great advantage; and merriment is often excited by hasty runs and jumps to avoid showers of spray. On the platform is a flag-staff, on which colours are hoisted on Sundays and holydays, and also signals; that for the arrival of a vessel is white on red, and for its departure white on blue (the " Blue Peter"). Here are also two signal guns, about six pounders, which have a very loud report. The steam packets to Dieppe, the Talbot and Eclipse, leave this Pier twice a week in the summer season, and are very safe and convenient vessels ; their arrivals and departures generally ex- cite a crowd and some interest. The band of the regiment also plays on the Pier once a week. In the intervals of sailing, the packets are moored in the harbour of Shoreham, and when the tide will not allow of their coming up to the Pier Head, they start from that place ; also, in a few instances, when they cannot conveniently make Shoreham, they steer for Newhaven or Little Hampton. Dieppe is 27 leagues or 81 miles distant from Brighton, and 126 miles from Paris. The route lies through the noble and celebrated city of Rouen, which is said to be, alone, worth a visit to France ; and, in fact, has into- DRIGHTOM. 199 resting associations for an Englishman, possessed by few other places on the continent. We had some thoughts of adding, or publishing separately, a survey of the route from Dieppe to Paris, but were prevented by circumstances, one of which was the miserable deficiency of all encouragement, in this time generally, and particularly in the vicinity of Brighton. We have nothing more to say on the subject of the Chain Pier, but that it has commodious baths at its extremity, and a camera obscura at the descent from the Marine Parade ; here is alac a Saloon and Reading-room, with occasional accessories of amusement, as foreign musicians, &c. Fireworks have been occasionally exhibited on the Pier, by Mr. Jones, a resident pyrotechnist, whose only remuneration (or ** guerdon," for that is *' eleven-pence farthing better" — Shakspeare) is the voluntary contribution of the company. The total expense, including the Esplanade, was 30,000/., defrayed in shares by a company. The admission is 11. Xs. per annum, or two- pence each visit : parties landing at or embarking from it pay sixpence. On the 23d of November, 1824, the Pier was severely tried by a storm, but found fully competent to endure any such convulsions. The waves ran " mountains high," and often completely obscured the Pier from sight : they broke down the wooden railing at its head, washed up some of the planks, and occasionally raised the platform several feet between the towers, but from its elasticity it speedily recovered its proper place, and no part of the chains or piles was broken. De- scriptions and plates of this storm have been published, and may be had in Brighton. THE MARINE PARADE; KEMP TOWN, &c. extends about a mile and a half along the Cli£P to Kemp Town. This portion of the town is decidedly the best adapted for those who require a bracing air, as the west end is for those to whom a mild and sheltered situation is the primary object. The average difference of temperature between the two is stated to be two degrees and a half. Of the fine effect of the air and prospects here, wc cannot speak too highly : they 140 COASt OF SUSSEX. are only to be excelled, on the southern coast, at Eastbouni^. The Marine Parade has many fine piles of buildings and some good squares and streets, opening into the interior line of houses. Amongst these are the New Steyne, the Crescent, Rock-gardens, Marine-square, and Portland-street ; the latter has a large mansion at the end, called Portland House, sur- mounted by the lion-statant crest of the Duke of Norfolk. In front is a fluted Corinthian portico, which would be extremely noble, if the entablature and pediment were in proportion to the columns. Near this point is a descent by a staircase to the bottom of the cliff, a walk to which will be found very interesting, as also a ramble amongst the rocks, sea-weeds, and shrimp fishers, &c, at low water. The sea-wall, erected at an expense of 5000Z., to defend the Marine Parade, from the insufficiency of its prominence as a bulwark, fell down — which was, doubt- less, a most provoking circumstance. A new one, on a very solid and grand construction, has been begun, but stopped by disagreements in the town ; yet it will probably be completed. The famed " Kemp Town" occupies the farthest point. This pile is certainly imposing from its extent, and in parts is very handsome. The Crescent is upwards of 800 feet in span, 200 feet more than the largest in Bath, out of which issues a spacious square. The architecture has generally the lower story Doric and the upper Ionic, or in some places Corinthian. The worst part of the erection is the farther terrace, called " Albany," the style of which is very mediocre. A lateral perspective view of the crescent and square can only excite a pleasing idea. Kemp Town is, however, at present a dull place : ** the grass grows in the streets."" Its principal attraction is the residence of the Duke of Devonshire, which occupies a part of the most de- sirable locality, the Crescent, as represented in our plate. The great error was in calling it, or wishing it to be thought, a septa- rate " town" from Brighton, to which distinction it has not the slightest claim. It has no earthly concomitant of a town : no steeple, market-house, shops, or inns. Had it been merely called Kemp Place, or Crescent, considered as a suburb to Brighton, and more closely allied to it, it would have been well ; and no BRIGHTON. 141 one could have disputed its claim to the character of a fine range of buildings. An attempt was also made to gain for Brunswick-square, and one or two adjoining streets, the ap- pellation of a " town ;" but good sense prevailed, and the design was abandoned. In front of Kemp Town, with a sb'ght descent from the Cliff, is a very desirable esplanade, formed by a mound of sand rising from the beach, with a neat cemented tunnel in the centre issuing from the lawn of Kemp Town. The situation is in a certain degree sheltered, and the views are nevertheless fine. On the beach, at a spot called Black Rock, is also a very long tunnel for carts, which we should think might be a minute representation of the Grotto of Pausilippo. The Cliff continues its ascent to the signal-house, where we should suppose it was from 150 to 200 feet high, and a walk to this spot will repay the time and trouble of the visitor. BRIGHTON, WEST OF THE STEYNE. The new sea-road and Esplanade at the back of the Albion Hotel, is one of the most beneficial of the new erections, as previous to this the communication between the two ends of the Town was only by a narrow lane issuing out of the Steyne.- The range from hence to the western extremity, about a mile and a quarter, is called " King's Road." The esplanade, which is fortified by wooden flanking walls, and piles of very great strength, is at its commencement low ; and a walk along this locahty has an interesting and romantic effect in a wintry evening, when the roar of the waves is heard near us, whilst their swell is almost unseen, except when the white fringe of a breaker makes itself conspicuous above the " dark profound." These sights and sounds will strike him, who, like Pelops, '* comes down in the dark to the white sea*.** The wholesale Fish-market is held on the beach. Here the colliers and other trading vessels unload, and the sailing and row-boats are moored, or ply for fares and parties. The streets opening into the town are narrow and bu^ess-like; • Pindab 142 COAST OF SUSSEX. Still the fashionable promenade is in full vigour here, and the houses are in great request. The turn of the street leading out of East Street, and also Pool Lane, are occupied by gay shops of fancy dealers of every description, and milliners. Farther west is the Battery of six guns, taken from a French ship, where they were rated as thirty-eight pounders, but the French pound weighing eighteen ounces English, they carry a ball of forty pounds and a half. At the back of the battery on the opjxjsite side of the street, is an artillery guard-house or barrack. A little to the east of the battery is the custom-house, which has a small neat front, and both of these have flag-stafl*s. R^ency Square, one of the most fashionable situations, ia very regularly built, and is neat, without much architectural ornament : immediately beyond it, Preston Street, a wide and handsome one, runs up to the Western Road, which extends from the top of North Street at the back of the whole west end of the town, and is similar, in appearance, to the suburbs of London. It contains some very good conservatories. The range of buildings from Regency to Brunswick square, is handsome ; the latter is the largest square in the town ; the fronts of its houses are generally circular, and ornamented with columns ; but the large opening at the top is to be regretted, as it has a rather cold and naked effect. The square is infe- rior in beauty to the terraces on either hand of its front, which are among the best erections in Brighton, ornamented with bold and handsome Corinthian pillars, in a very good style*. At the farthest extremity the new ** Adelaide Cres- cent," so called in honour of the Queen, the patroness of Brigh- ton, is now erecting, and promises to be an unusually fine and stately building-f-. It was stated in the BrigJUon Gazette that this was ** the first attempt at regular architecture in Brighton." This is unfair, as there is much respectable Pal- ladian architecture in that town ; but Adelaide Crescent will unquestionably be one of its best ornaments. The front has no columns, but the windows are very handsomely ornamented • S*e Plate. f The only smmll object whidi appixMchcfl it in the toim, is the Cront of the " CUrecce Mansion" boarding-boiue. BRIGHTON. 14d with stone balconies, mouldings, and pediments ; and the enriched projecting cornice is supported by bold cantilivers : the terrace in front, which is rusticated in the Buriingtonian style, the railed square, &c. will all possess features ot con- siderable grandeur. The western esplanades, which are between half and three quarters of a mile in length, are very spacious and conTenient. Some time ago, through an extraordinarily stupid manage- ment, the walks were absolutely -paved with bruised thdOCy which rendered them inaccessible in sunshiny weatha^ on pain of blindness : but on strong remonstrances being made in the newspapers, it was removed, and gravel substituted. A band, consisting of ten persons, was established here last summer to play on three evenings in the week, to which also the inhabitants had been urged in the Brighton papers, from the consideration that they did not provide amuse> ments for visitors ; but we believe it was abandoned before the end of the season, from the deficiency of subscriptions. Here, however, the visitors must share the blame with the inhabitants, as they were well contented to walk and listen to the music, which, though not of the highest order, was much better than nothing; — ^yet kept their purses dosed. The small town of St. Leonard's, which has not one-thirtieth part of the population of Brighton, supports a parade band with ease. Perhaps another season will find the latter in a more liberal mood. The esplanade is a very lively scene on summer mornings, with ladies, gentlemen, and children ; bathing machines, horses, donkies, pleasure-boats, &c. ; and would form a good subject for a landscape ; the evening promenades are also very Uvely*. * Ah, Coantj Guj, the hoar is mgli. The stin has left the lea. The orange-flower perfumes the bower. The breeze is on the sea. The lark, his lay that trilled all dxjt Sits hushed, his partner nigh. Breeze, bird, and flower, they know die bonr. But where is County Guy? 144 COAST OF SD»SEX. Our Gallic neighbours (whom we like very well in their own characters*, and only dislike when vexatiously praised by English Gallo-maniacs, to the entire depreciation of iheir own countrvmen) are very partial to Brighton, compared with which their sole Bains de Mer at Dieppe must hide their diminished heads. The promenades here are very well suited to their taste, and they delight to " take a little turn of walking," either of an evening or " of good morning," which enables them to ** carry themselves well." Sometimes also they undertake that feat, perilous in sound, which they by a most ludicrous perversion of ideas, call " walking on a horse," which, however, we have no wish to see them literally put in practice, as, especially in the case of ladies, it would be very hazardous-f. LIBRARIES. The original Library of Brighton is now occupied by Mr. Philips, confectioner, at the south western angle of the Old Steyne, and was successively kept by Mr. Woodgate, Mr. Crawford, and Mr. Bowen. The second was Lncomhe's on the Steyne, now converted into a Bazaar, a circumstance to be The village maid steals through die shade, ' ^ Her lover's suit to hear; To beauty shy, by lattice nigfa. Sings high-bom cavalier : The star of love, all stars above. Now reigns o'er earth and sky ; And high and low the influence know. Then where is County Guy ? Quenti* Ihtmxird. • Is the tale of " the Violet Girl of the Pont Neuf," in the November N«. of the Court JSIagazine, true? We hope it is. f All languages, however, have probably some absurd idioms, not except- ing the Greek and Latin, and the English have no right to laugh at their neighbours. Our " shall" and " will," must ever be the torment of foreigners, as they were near proving fatal to the poor Frenchman, who in falling from London Bridge, exclaimed " I wiil be drowned — nobody shall help roe." We speak of a person's being "in liquor," the only actual instance of which on record was Shakspeare's Duke of Clarence, when drowned in the butt of Malmsey : — also of another's being " beside himself," which if graphically represented, would be a very arousing caricature. BRIGHTON. 145 regretted by summer visitors, as its musical and other entertain-, ments rendered it the most lively resort in the town. The third- established was Tuppens, facing the sea, near the entrance of the Marine Parade : this is still in existence, and is at present- the only establishment for loo and music : the usual vocal per- former is Miss Corrie, a young lady known and esteemed in the place, whose voice has a very sweet and silvery tone. Messrs. Wright, our highly respectable publishers, amongst whose subscribers are the King and Queen, have two esta- blishments ; a large and convenient one in the colonnade. North Street; and a smaller but equally convenient library on the Western Esplanade, near Cannon Place, to meet th^ views of the residents in that vicinity. At both these are also musical libraries, in which they have attained much celebrity, and at the colonnade library is a concert-room. Mr. Loder's, in North Street, has a very large collection of books, and a convenient reading-room, as has also Mr. Taylors, in the same street, possessing equal advantages ; and a similar character may be given to Mr. Nash's, from Tunbridge Wells, at the west end, near ]Mahommed''s baths, and Mr. Brewer's, and Mr. Saunder^s, in St. James Street. The terms of these libraries are nearly similar, viz. .£1. lis. 6d. per annum ; 18s. per six months; 8s. per month ; and 5s. per fortnight. Messrs. Taylor's, and Saunder''s are, we believe, rather less. There are also four or five other libraries in the town, the grade and terms of which may not be equal to the preceding; but they may nevertheless have their merits, and be found adapted to the wishes of the visitor. BATHS, WARM, COLD, AND SHOWER, &C. &C. The oldest are Wood's, at the south western extremity.of the Steyne, which are still equal, though not superior, to the later established ones. The others are Mafiommed's, cele- brated for the process of shampooing ; WiUiams's, and Lam- prelPs, in the same vicinity ; the latter has a very large circular plunging bath ; Hobden's, further west, near the battery ; 146 COAST OF SUSSEX. and an establishment on the New Steyne. It would be' invidious to institute any comparison between the several parties: each possesses a convenient reading-room, &c. and affords equal attention and civility. Nor is it within the compass of our purpose, either here, or at any other place, to digress into any observations on the mode or utihty of bathing ; the reader must be referred to able medical authorities. BATHING MACHINES are found at the western part of the town, and are on the same plan as at most other watering places, and on the same terms. This again is a subject on which the visitor wiU find, immediate information attainable on his arrivaL FLYS, HORSES, &c. Brighton possesses a very large number, we believe between 200 and 300, of carriages of every description, principally four wheeled. They are in general neat, and the horses tolerably good. We may as well subjoin the list of fares, for the con- venience of visitors, particularly as we believe those at Wor- thing' and Hastings are nearly similar, which will save repe- tition in our accounts of those places. ** FOB TIME. ** For every hour, or any less time — to commence from leaving the stand. First class ♦ . . . . Ss. 6d. Second class . . . . Ss. 6d. Third class . . . .Is. 6d. " For half an hour after the first hour, or any less time. First class . . . Is. 9d. Second class . . . .Is. 3d. Third class ... Os. 9d. * These depend on the size and the uurober of persons they cany. BRIGHTON. 147 *• FOE BISTiiNCS. *' For any distance not exceeding one mile, including the distance from the stand or place from whence the coach, carriage, or fly shall be called, to the place where the fare shall be taken up. First class . . . .Is. 6d. Second class . . . .Is. Od. Third class . . . . Os. 9d. ** And for every additional half-mile. First class . . . . Os. 9d. Second class . . . . Os. 6d. Third class . . . . Os. Bd." There are also sedan chairs and hand flies on proper terms. The small carriages for children are drawn by goatSy an idea first put in practice by a boy of Brighton : they are generally well treated ; and there is said to be no cruelty in using these animals for the purpose, as, from their strong formation, they are not un6tted for draught. lu fact, they are actually employed to assist in drawing ploughs in Savoy. Whilst it is added that this remark does not apply to Dogs, and that the use made of them is one for which, as they are not fitted, they certainly could never have been intended, and that employing them is, in many respects, absolute cruelty — a remark which deserves consideration. The car of the famed Princess, in petto, *' Cinderella," was drawn by two goats at the Brighton theatre. We feel great pleasure in adding, that we were informed, by an honourable lady, whom we have the pleasure to call a friend, as noble in mind as in person, the munificent foundress and patroness of an Association in London, for ** Promoting Rational Humanity towards the Animal Creation," that, during a residence of several weeks in Brighton, she perceived fewer indications of cruelty than in any other place she had visited *. • We know that tbis noble lady, or any other person who sboold recommend such a Society or purpose, would be assailed by some, though not all, with the refuge of inhumanity or cold-heartedness — the epithet of " morbid sensibflity," which in her case would be about a« much heeded as if " dogs had bayed the moon." I o 148 COAST OF SUSSEX. Tlie horses kept at the livery stables in Brighton are gene- rally of a superior kind, and sometimes of high breeding: the terms are rather expensive. FISHERY. THE FISHER'S CALL. BY THOKAS DOCBUQDiAT. The thorn is in die bod, - . The palm is in the bloBaom, The primrose, in the shade. Unfolds her dewy bosom ; Sweet Coquet's pmUng desr. And sommer music mj^iiig; The trout has left his lair. Then waken, fishery wakeiL The lavTOck's in the sky. And on the heath the plorcr. The bee upon the thyme^ The swallow Rkimming over; The farmo- walks the fidd. The seed he's casting steady; The breeze is Uowing west. Be ready, fishers, ready. The violet's in her piiiii^ And April is the weather; The partridge on the wing. The muircock in the heather; The sun's upon the pool. His momin' radiance wastiii^ It's glittering like the gold. Oh! hasten, fishers, hasten. A juu ver t ary, 1829. Probably the description of the Brighton fisheries by the able zoologist Pennant, about fifty years ago, will nearly serve for the present time ; or where it differs it will have the effect of novel historical particulars, and the visitor will eas3y discover the mode and degree of differenoe. *■' The fish-market, both wholesale and retail, is kept oa the beach, a little beyond the baths ; the boats used in the fisheries are from ten to fifteen tons, made remarkably strong BBIGHTOK. 149 to secure them against the storms in their winter adventure. The niackarel boats are navigated by three or four men and a boy ; there are about forty-6ve for the mackarel fishery, and twenty-five for the trawling ; they set sail generally in the evening, go eight or ten leagues to sea, and return the next day ; the fishing is always carried on in the night. The crew are provided with tea, coffee, water, and a small quantity of spirits, for at sea they are remarkably temperate; their in- dulgence is only on shore. They only take with them bread, beef, and greens, which, and sometimes fish, they often eat with their tea and coffee. They are a hardy race, and veiy healthy ; yet, during the summer season, they have a very small interval from labour. They get a good meal, and a very short repose by laying themselves on a bed during the few hours in the day in which they come on shore. They bring their fish in baskets to the beach, fling them in vast heaps, and instantly a ring of people is formed round, an auction is begun, and the heap is immediately disposed of: the price is uncertain, according to the success of the night. Mackarel this season (1793) were sold from 11. to 71. a hundred; they have been sold as high as 15/. a hundred. Mackarel and soles are the great staples of the place ; nine or ten thousand have been taken at one shooting of the net. Mackarel swim deep in calms, and rise to the surface in gales, when the largest fish and the greatest quantity are taken. *' The nets consist of a number of parts, each of which are from thirty-six to fifty yards long and deep, and are kept buoyant by corks. These united form a chain of nets a mile and a half long. Before they are used in the spring they are taken from the storehouses and spread upon the Steyne; a privilege, time immemorial, granted to the fishermen. The boats are drawn on shore at the latter end of the winter, and placed in ranges on the lower part of the Steyne, and other places near to the sea ; and I have, in the beginning of April, with a great noise heard them drag them back to the sea, in the manner described by Horace. ♦ SoUnter acris byems gmti vice vem et Favoni TmhuiiKiue kiccus machiiue carinas.' 150 COAST OF SUSSKX. The interval from labour is very small, for numbers of the boats are in the early spring hired out to dredge for oysters^ to supply the beds in the Medway and other places. " The greater part of the fish are sent to London, packed in baskets, usually weighing about three quarters of a hundred in each ; they are put into small light carts, which go post, carry from fifteen to thirty baskets each, and reach our capital in eight or ten hours. *' The mackarel are supposed to come from the Bay of Bis- cay. In the early spring they are taken off Dieppe ; they next appear off Mount's Bay, where they are caught in seines, and sent by land to London in small baskets ; the shooting of nets has not been found to answer off the Cornish shore. They arrive in the Channel off Brighthelmstone in the middle of April, and continue till the middle of July ; after which they will not mesh, but are caught with hooks, and are at that season nearly unfit for eating. In June they are observed to approach nearer to the shore ; they continue in the Channel till the cold season commences, when they go progressively north or east The fry is seen of vety small size in October and November, *' The herring fishery b^ns in October ; those fish appear in great quantities along shore, and reach Hastings in No- vember. The fishery is very considerable, and adventurers from every country engage in it. A boat has ten last of ten thousand each. The fish which are not sent to London fresh are salted or cured as red herrings. The nets resemble those used in the mackarel fishery, only the meshes are smaller; they are about twenty feet deep, and are left to sink of themselves. The congenerous pilchards are some- times taken here in the mackarel nets, but in very small quantities. " Soles, the other staple fish, are taken in trawls in great numbers. The fishery begins in April, and continues all the summer: in April, 1794, the weight of two tons were caught in one night. I saw in the same month a heap of soles on the market beach, none of which were less than nineteen inches long. The other congenerous fishes were turbots, BRIGHTOK. 151 generally very indifferent ; brills or pearl ; smear dabs ; plaice, and flounders. " Various kinds of rays are taken here ; such as the skate (Br. ZooL ii. No. 30), the sharp-nosed (No. 31), the fuller (No. 53), the thomback, the sand-ray, which has sharp slender spines on the edges, opposite to the eyes; minute spines along the edges of the fins, and upon the fins like the fuller; the back and tail shagreened, marked with round black spots; the teeth sharp and slender. A ray, not un> common on the Flintshire coasts, is twenty-one inches long, o£ which the tail is eleven ; the nose is pointed, and semitran- sparent; two spines above each eye, and three placed in a row on the back ; three rows on the tail, of which the middle runs far up the back ; edges of the body from the nose to the anal fin rough, with rows of minute spines; back quite smooth, of a fine pale brown, regularly marked with circular black spots ; teeth quite flat and smooth. ** Of the shark genus, the angel-fish is not uncommon. The smooth sharks, or topes, are very numerous; they grow to the length of four feet. I saw opened several of this species, and can vouch for the truth of the young entering the mouth of the parent in time of danger, and taking refuge in the stomach. I have seen from twelve to twenty taken out of a single tope, each eleven or twelve inches long. This species is split, salted, and eaten. ** I here met with the corbeagle of Mr. Jago (See Br. Zool. iii. No. 49) ; the length was three feet nine inches, the thickest circumference two feet and an inch. It is a rare species allied to the Beaumaris shark. The greater and lesser spotted dog- fish are very numerous. *' The common angler is frequently caught here and some- times of an enormous size; from the vast width of the mouih it is called here the kettle-man. The launce, and two species of weevers, are very common ; the greater grows to the length of sixteen inches, is two inches deep, the weight of two pounds, and is a firm well-tasted fish. The fishermen have a great dr^d of the spines, and cut them off as soon as taken. 152 COAST OF SUSSEX. ." The cod-fish tribe are rather scarce, except the whitings, which are sometimes caught in mackarel nets, but chiefly with hooks. They are taken in April; but the best season is in October. I saw here the common cod, the whitingpout, the coal-fish, and the five bearded cod. " The doree is frequently taken ; I saw one of fifteen pounds weight, and the length of three quarters of a yard. I saw here the lunated gilthead and ancient wrasse, the basse, and red or striped surmullet ; the last smalL The red and the grey gurnards were common. '* Salmons are unknown here, which I am told is the case on all chalky coasts. The gar or needle fish are often seen here, and of great lengths. I shall not digress improperly in saying that the razor bills and guillemots, inhabitants of Beachy Head, are frequently caught in the mackarel nets, unwarily diving in pursuit of the fish. Prawns are in their season taken in vast abundance near the shores, which, wanting rocks to give shelter to the lobsters and crabs, those delicacies are brought from the more distant parts to the east. " Variety of corallines are found on the coast of this country and that of Kent : many of them are engraven in the ingenious history of that class of natural history, so admirably managed by my friend the late Mr. Ellis, to whom Linnaeus gave the title of Lynceus Ellisius ; but for some years before his death, by too great an exertion of his Lyncean faculties, he was totally deprived of even the common blessing of sight."' THEATRE. The Brighton Theatre, which fifty years ago was let for 60 guineas per annum, and some time afterwards produced 600, is now let at 15200/. per annum to Messrs. Vining and Bew, the former a popular actor in London, and the latter a dentist, at Brighton, attending the Pavilion, who entered upon this concern in the summer of 1831 . The abilities of the former gentleman- as a manager are well known, and also his correct and gentler manly deportment. The salaries allowed to the performers. BI^ICHTOIf. 153 are also said to be liberal. The Theatre is an externally un- omamented building in the New Road, with a plain portico ; but the interior is considered to be one of the most elegant out of the ^Metropolis. The prices have lately been reduced. The audience consists of two tier of boxes, a pit, and ^>acious gallery, with a wide corridor to the boxes: their fronts are white, handsomely ornamented with gold, and lined with crimson ; the drop scene is green and gold. The representa- tions are conducted in so very liberal and skilful a manner that they ought to experience a far more extensive patronage from those who are accustomed to attend dramatic performances. The scenery and other decorations are splendid, without any limit of expense. Several melo-dramas have been brought out in a very finished style : one of which, a local piece, styled the ** TVTiite Hawk Lady," its scene laid at Lewes, in the timed of the De Warrens, exhibited much correctness and in- genuity. Ballets have also been introduced, some of which were pretty, especially Cinderella. We suppose that in any situation these have more of the essence of grace and beauty, in proportion to their being without gratuitous inde> corum. The former, in a style not easily to be surpassed even in fancy, and unmixed with the latter, may be seen in some of the introductory dances of *' Masaniello." The orchestra is respectable ; and the usual companies of performers comprise many individuals of talent*. In addition to which, many of the most popular London actors have visited the Theatre during the last two years. That clever and respectable pair, Mr. and Mrs. Keeley, are great favourites. The former'*s *' Dandy Cock Robin"" is very droll, and the latter's ** Banks of the Blue Moselle," once heard, cannot easily be forgottou That meritorious and enterprising youth, '* Jack the Giant Killer," of bean-stalk-climbing celebrity, made his appearance in a Pantomime last winter, and some equally famed fairy hero, or princess, will doubtless resort here each succeed- ing one. • A daughter of )Ir. Yuung, of engaging and artless manners made her first appearance this ytu. 154 COAST OF SUSSEX. The Equestrian Troop, from Astley's, was engaged here in 1832; and also performed privately before their Majesties, ain, with the accompaniments of coid, hunger, and neglect, (for what are too generally the mercies of a parish?) we should have a vivid impression of the excellence of the golden rule " to do as we would be done by," and hsre '*» hand open aa day to melting charity." BRIGHTON. )G1 about 100, by whom the town is divided into six districts, for the purpose of visiting and inquiring into cases of distress. The following observations, by an old but excellent writer (who was no ascetic), appear so extremely applicable to this point, that we have been induced to give them insertion : " The giver should not lose the benefit of that personal acquaintance with sorrow, which strengthens the social ties, corrects the caprices of fastidious self-importance, and turns the narrow ^ms of individual gratifi- cation into gratitude to that Providence who appoints wealth as the STEWAHD • and dispenser, rather than the consumeb of its accumulated bounties. I might also add, how much this benovolent intercourse between the rich and poor, the great and lowly, enlarges the mind and improves the manners of both parties. ^Vlien a lady of rank surveys a healthy group of young cottagers vying with each other for skill and adroitness at their various occupations ; watching with anxious glance the hour-^ass, which, if early exhausted, upbraids them with having previously loitered, and reminds them of the probability of their dame's inflicting an additional task, she may form some notion of the value of the moments which she ia anxious to waste; or when she sees the care-worn mother dividing the brown loaf in equal portions among her children, whose countenances brighten with the glow of pleasure, as they successively reUeve the cravings of hunger, she may learn to compare the expenses of vanity and bene- volence, and to estimate their specific gratifications. But the bed of sick- ness, especially when attended by its frightful concomitant, penury, will afford her the best lesson to check the repinings of discontent, and all the various pangs of envy, ambition, and pride, which teach the sickly daughters of spleen to quarrel with prosperity. On the side of the indigent, this social intercourse with their superiors would prove the best check to the democratical spirit that is let loose among them. They would find themselves often called upon to observe the attraction of graceful manners and the advantage of superior information. The narrow, but too general prejudice which has been excited against the a])parently more favoured part of our species would be abated, and a grateful attachment to friends and benefactors would soon eradicate the idea, that Lords and Ladies are but poor creatures, were it not that they have got the upper hand in this world."— JVfr*. Chapone. In the winter of 1831-2, when the approiich of the cholera was viewed as a possible contingency, an augmentation of the means of this society was strongly called for, in order to effect some temporary provisions, when, by the united charity of visitors and inhabitants, the liberal sum of jCQOO was con- tributed for that purpose. • « Fruges consumere rati." — Hoe. 163 COA8T OF 8CSSKX. JUBILEE BENEVOLENT ACCUMULATING FUND. 1809. Patron, the King. Stock, c^OSl, 3 per cent, consols. ALA.TERNAL SOCIETY, 58, CHUBCH BTBEET. Patroness, the Queen. Income in 1831, 184/. 19*. 2d. LYING-IN INSTITUTION, 64, HIOB STREET. Patron, the King. Income in 1831, 121 18s. DORCAS SOCIETY, FOR PROVIDING CLOTHES, BLANKETS, &C, FOR THE POOR. Treasurer, Mrs. Poole, 6, Castle Square. Income, 1831 — including sale of fancy articles, jP113- 319/. I2s.6d. SOCIETY FOR RELIEVING POOR WIDOWS IN THE FIRST STAGE OF WIDOWHOOD. Secretary, Mr. Penfold, North Street. No account. DOLLAR SOCIETY. 1813. So called from its annual subscriptions of five shillings each, entitling individuals to recommend one person as an object of charity. Patronised by the late Queen Charlotte. No account. BRIGHTOIC. 163 BENEFIT SOCIETIES. Two or three of these laudable institutions, which should always be encouraged, as conducing to the most unequiTocally beneficial purposes*, exist in Brighton ; but we have met with no accounts of them. One is an United Fisherman's So- ciety, for which a sermon was preached by the Bishop of Chichester, in 1832, at the New Church, when j£36 was col- lected for the purpoee. SWAN DO^FNER'S CHARITY. Twenty poor men and twenty-four women are annually clothed from the interest of £5000, left by this gentleman for that purpose, PERCY ALMSHOUSES. IMrs. Dorothy and ]Mrs. Anne Percy, who died about 1796, directed six almshouses to be built by their executrix, Mrs. Mary Marriott, and endowed them with the sum of .£48 per annum during her life, and £96 subsequently, for the reception of six widows of the church of Ensriand who had not received parochial relief. A new gown and cloak is also given to them each second year. FANCY FAIRS. Considerable sums are annually raised for three or four institutions in Brighton, by means of these popular charitable contrivances. On this subject we notice a representation in Bruce' s Brighton, 18^1, adopted from the Brixton Gazette j which imperatively calls for attention, especially as we have heard it strongly corroborated by those who are both ocMnpetent • " They asked Hatim Tai if he had ever seen or heard of anr person in die world more noble-minded than himself. He replied, ' One day, after having sacrificed fony camels, I went along with an Arab chief to the skirt of a desert, where I saw a labourer who had made up a bundle of thorns, whom I asked why he did not go to the feast of Hatim Tai, to whose table people repaired in crowds. He answered, ' Whosoever eateth bread from his own labour wiD not submit to be under obLiration to Hatim TaL' I considered this man as mf superior in generosity and liberality.' " — Sadr* " GlttJistan or Rote- Garden," 164 COAST OF SUSSEX. judges and entirely disinterested. It is this: — That however undeniably excellent are the motives of the originators and patrons of these modes of charity : — in a town like Brighton, where a considerable portion of the inhabitants are occupied in the manufacture and sale of fancy articles, an injury is caused which is no less than a counter-balance to the good which may be effected in other quarters. Thus we find the state- ment ; and, whilst we readily give it insertion here, we desire to add, that it is not within the compass of possibility that we should have any interested motive for so doing. We are fully aware of what we are doing ; we know, that not only almost all ladies of the highest rank in Brighton patronise or contri- bute to them, but that the Queen herself affords her patronage in a high degree, and also has sent contributions of her own work, which of course have been purchased with avidity. But we are sure her ^Majesty would prefer our stating that opinion, which, for the reasons above-mentioned, v/e have formed, than that we should avoid the subject with the unworthy caution of the sycophant. It should be remembered, that the parties so engaged, and who may suffer injury, are by no means of the lower class, or those who, if deprived of one mode of liWog, are fitted for others of varied or onerous exertion. Even if their prospects in life have never been higher, in the present stage of society, their manners and ideas are not suited for a descent to a lower grade. But they are too often those who have been reduced from higher birth and expectations ; a case formerly princi- pally read in novels, but now too true in real life. Hands as white, and eyes as dazzling, may be exercised in such employ- ments as those of the patrician beauties at the fancy fairs ; and we are certain, or we should not mention it, that the latter would never wilfully injure the former, even though the sacrifice were required of their most cherished predilections. They may be members of large and indigent families, for whom such employments are especially desirable — they may be orphans, of whom the frivolous, but not wholly corrupted sentimentalist observes, that ** God tempers the wind to the BRIGHTON. 165 shorn lamb" — or, lastly, they may be of that happy class (for they should not be uwhappy) who are thus engaged in ministering to the comfort of an aged relative or parent. These cases are not romantic or problematical ; they are, at least, highly probable, if not ascertained to be true. The romantic effect of a Fancy Fair, the theme of song and novel, is, doubtless, too pretty to be easily resigned ; but if the result be shown not to be that which its favourers would deare, let some means of transfer be adopted, both of the mode of benevolence and the popular exhibition. What that should be, it is not for us to pronounce; but it may be safely left in the hands of those whose ingenuity and spirit contrived tbe original expedient. Must any of John Bull's sons, in the present day, have something very attractive to their senses to allure them to acts of beneficence and utility ? And will nothing move their dull hands and strike open the rusted clasps of their pursesi, but the electric flash from the eyes of rank and beauty ? We are not entirely serious in what we are about to men- tion, yet we remember to have heard an enthusiast, but a benevolent one, actually recommend something very like it in spirit, though not in details, at a Chapel of Ease in Brighton. We remember to have seen, in the church of a large town in Normandy, a lady of rank and attraction walk round tbe immense nave, densely thronged with several thousand perstms soliciting from each an alms for the poor of the town, and acknowledging even a sous, and from the humblest individual, with impressive gracefulness. The appearance of an elegant figure, crowned with flowers, attended by one priest only, plainly attired, gliding through crowds composed of persons of the higher ranks, confusedly intermingled with peasants, mechanics, fishermen, and their families, in every species of costume, and files of military, had a sufficiently romantic and interesting effect. We were informed also, that the principal ladies of the place took this office in turn every Sunday. That was, doubtless, something a little sentimental and French in the mode, and some may seriously object to it, but if they 166 COAST OF SUSSEX. bad witnessed the apparently sincere good-feeling at the time, their objections might have been greatly disarmed, on the principle of ** Honi soil qui mal y -penseT THE POOR HOUSE, erected in 1821, above the old church, in a very healthy situation, is a plain, convenient edifice, of no architectural pretensions; its front is 190 feet in extent, and the average number of poor which it contains is 350. The internal arrange- ments are said to be very judicious. A small infirmary for ' the sick has lately been erected, at a short distance, a measure which confers much credit on its originators and supporters. Belonging to the Poor-house are eight acres of land. Beyond this is the Cattle Market, erected in 1831-2 ; but which has proved a complete failure. MARKET. The new Market-house, west of the Town Hall, was erected in 1830 ; it is a spacious neat building, having some resem- blance to tliat in Farringdon Street, London, but on a more humble scale. A market of miscellaneous character is held every day in the week, but by far the greatest occurs on Saturday. West of this building, and at the back of North Street, is a dense collection of small " lanes," as they are termed, though the diverging paths are only wide enough for pedestrians. Here may be seen the humble emporiums of industry, indicated in shops of every description, each endea- vouring to attract the passenger by the promise of cheapness. Here, too, on Saturdays, may be seen the anxious wife of the artizan, diligently seeking to lay out her smaU pittance, which the spectator often wishes were greater, in the most advanta- geous manner. THE POST OFFICE is situated in the New Road, and is very well managed ; the hour at which it closes is nine. BRIUHTOM. . 167 COACHES, &c&c: The number daily running between Brighton and London is not less than thirty, which start at all hours, and from five or six offices ; together with others to a variety of principal towns, which the visitor will have no trouble in discovering. There are also commodious vans to London on springs. BARRACKS. The horse barracks are situated on the Lewes road, rather less than a mile beyond the new church, and consist of a neat regular pile of building, able to accommodate 650 men. Latterly, however, there have been only four troops quartered here ; but with the title of Head-Quarters and an accompany- ing band. The present regiment is the 3rd Dragoon guards, which has replaced the Scotch Greys. The foot barracks are opposite the palace stables, and will contain 400 men. When his Majesty is at the Pavilion four companies are quartered here, which, in 1831 and 1832, have been those of the Cold- stream guards, who have generally either the whole or part of a band. It usually surprises visitors, on learning that there is a military band in the place, not to be gratified by hearing it oftener (on week days), and seeing a little more of the *' pomp and circumstance of war," to break the monotony of the town, to which even a hand organ is a relief. The Scotch Greys were accustomed to parade occasionally through the town. Of course it could not be expected that abstruse concerted pieces should be got up daily for the public gratification ; but even a little parade flourish, as at the Horse Guards, and a few com- mon airs, would sound *' silver sweet'" to the listless stroller. We should not object to the everlasting " blue hills of the Tyrol," should be very glad to hear " the Greenwood Tree,* or Mile Sontag's Waltz, and should not even quarrel with " the March in Blue Beard." 168 COAST OF SUSSEX. CONSERVATORY, OR ORIENTAL GARDEN, NEAR ADELAIDE CRESCEXT. The design of this institution is certainly novel — viz. to combine a conservatory with a promenade, and to furnish an erection competent to receive under its roof the trees of the eastern or western forest, as well as the exotic shrub and flower. An injudicious puff by some friend in a newspaper excited a slight prejudice by instituting a comparison between its dome and that of St. PeteFs — for which we have, archi- tecturally speaking, a superstitious veneration. It is c^- tainly greater in span, though " many a mile"" inferior in con- struction and ornament : and, with respect to mere size, if that were a criterion, Covent Garden Market would be a finer building than Whitehall or Somerset House. Besides, compared with St. Peter's, this dome may be said to lie on the ground, being not much more than one fifth of its height (400 feet); whereas it was the boast of Michael Angelo, that he would not only build a dome larger than the Pantheon, then the most considerable, but raise it in the air. But setting this aside as a point foolishly mooted; it is certainly the largest dome known to exist in the Morld, being IGI- feet in span, which is 34 feet wider than St. Peter's, 56 than St. PauFs, and 76 tlian the Pavilion stables. It is constructed of iron and glass M'ith brick abutments, and has a ^Moresque entrance on one side, with a covered walk surroimding the opposite semicircle, •^0 feet wide : the heljjht of the dome is 85 feet. If about half as much additional altitude had been attainable, it would doubtless have been an improvement. The interior is intended to comprise a splendid exotic garden — lofty trees, as cedars, palms, &:c., — a basin for aquatic plants and fishes, — rock scenery for parasitical plants ; and the upper part of the dome will inclose birds in net or wire work. The whole will unques- tionably be a beautifully attractive place, and the temperature will be so regulated as not to be insalubrious. Subscriptions, per annum, will be ^2. 2*. for admission every day ; or BRIGHTUM. 169 ^1. l-v. for Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. On these three days it will be open to the public on payment of Is. eath ; on the others, to the first description of subscribers only. The architect is Mr. H. Wilds : proprietor, Mr. H. Philips. SCIENTIFIC, OR LITERARY INSTITUTION. Some attempts have lately been made to establish a scientific and literary institution in Brighton, to which the inhabitants have been urged by the newspapers, whose Editors seem very uneasy under the imputation of Brighton being a mere wat«^- ing-place. With submission, and without meaning offence, we think that not only is Brighton a mere watering-place, but that it ougJit to be. It is especially adapted for that purpose, was designed for it, and by it alone has arisen to its present eminence : had it established a scientific institution during the last century, it would probably have remained in statu quo. Why not be content with the honour of having the Temple oi Hygeia? Why seek to force into it the attributes of the Portico? Here, if any where, the bow may be reasonablj unbent. Milton himself would never have recommended science in Brighton ; for he blames those who, •• When God gives a cbeerful hour — refiun." Every one has heard of the mishaps of a certain Mr. Jack (sur- name unknown), whose abilities and disposition were dete- 'riorated by having " all work and no play." Most people come to Brighton to play ; and to set them a task would be as un- gracious as for a physician to give a problem to be solved by a p>atient, who required a soporific draught. They had much better, like Scipio and Laelius, wander on the shore and pick up shells and pebbles tiU they get an appetite for the cauliflowers and potatoes. « Nugari et disdncti ludere dooee Decoqueretur olus," — *' To speak well of the bridge that carries us over," is a common proverb, implying that the contrary would be great 170 COAST OF nVSUKX. ingratitude. The genius of Brighton should not disdain to touch with her silken feet the staircase, up which, not many years ago, she toiled, barefooted, slowly, and humbly, to her now proud elevation. Will it be said, that such studies are every where required to raise our ideas of the power and goodness of God, the almighty and all-merciful, by whom we are fearfully and wonderfully made, and who is not far from any one of us ? They may be important and requisite in their time and place ; but are they indispensable here, where the magnificent conjunction of earth and sea is alone enough to elevate and soothe the mind, without telescopes, microscopes, diagrams, or lecture-rooms ? " Awed by the scene, my soul reveres The great First Cause that bade the spheres In tuneful order move : Thine is the sable mantled night. Unseen Almighty ! and the light The radiance of thy love." « T»e World," 177a Let the visitors of Brighton, then, confine their ffee-ology to the horses of the place, to induce them to take them an airing: instead of burrowing in the earth after *^dips" of ^^ strata^ let them take dips themselves in the sea, which, in blooming effect, may be " Strata Florida;" and walk quietly on the cliffs to inhale the sea breeze, instead of climbing their sides with ladders, or being let down from their summits in tubs or barrels, to break the rock in pieces with hammers, in order to ascertain its consistence : and instead of poring through long cylinders at the stars, let them have licence to admire the eyes of the ladies. A literary institution is a different question. Such a one, styled the " Athenasum,'" was established some years back, and failed miserably, as we have been informed by those who suf- fered injurious pecuniary losses from it. BRIGHION. 171 PROFESSIONAT, PERSONS, &c. &c. It is not, of course, our purpose to include in this already protracted description a Directory of Brighton, especially as we have informed the reader that such an article is to be obtained there. We shall, however, put him in possession of the fol- lowing brief particulars. The number of physicians in Brighton is ten, and that of surgeons, &c. thirty-two. Both include names of great respec- tability ; and it would be highly invidious to single out any ■with a view of drawing comparisons, which are ** odorous pala- bras, neighbour Verges." Still, every one has a right to men- tion his friends, especially if he also knows them to be deserv- ing. In this light we take leave to recommend Messrs. Badcock and Payne, St. James's-street. The members of the legal profession are thirty-one. There is, however, another class of persons whom we choose to specify individually, for the two following reasons. First, that we know several of them to be talented and meritorious characters, whose labours are not slight, and their gains, to a certain degree, precarious. Next, that, as by the unanimous testimony of all, their support from the resident inhabitants is of a most ineffective character, there exists the more reason for their just claims being brought before the notice of visitors. And there may be some reciprocal advantage in the latter being directed with facility to suitable Quarters. 17S COAST OF SUSSEX. ARTISTS AND INSTRUCTORS. fAlpkabeticallt/ arramged.J MUSIC. HARP, PIANO, yiOIiIN, FXVTE, ETC. KTO. AND SINOINO. Mr. Charles Bond, 3, Upper North-street. Miss Chambers*. Misses Emily and Georgiana Clements, (and singing,) 15, Marlborough^^Iaoe. Miss Corrie. Miss Marianne De Cothi, 2, Cannon-|daoe. Mr, G. F. Dusart, Lower Bedford-street. Madame Ferrari, 71, East- street. Mr. William Gutteridge, organist to his Majesty, 16, Cas- tle-square, (musical warehouse,) and 68, London-road. Mr. John Kirtchner, 27, Grenville-place (Quadrille Band). — Menckens musical warehouse, 41, East-street. Mrs. Joseph Nash, (and singing,) 17, East Cliff. Mr. Edward Pettitt, 6, Cannon-place. Miss Mary Pickering, 29, Dorset-gardens. Signor Pozzi, (singing,) 19, Marine-street. Madame Sala, 18, Manchester-street. Mr. E. Seller, 3Q, Grenville-place. Mrs. William Scott, 43, Regency-square. Madame Tabois, 10, York-place. Mr. Thomas Henry Wright, 144, North-street, and Royal Colonnade. Mr. T. Wright, 62, KingVroad, and 3, Grafton-place. DRAWING. IJU4D8CAPE, POBTBATT, WIO. XTa Mr. David Barber, 17, New-road- Mr. John Booty, 3, Royal Colonnade. * This young lady's birth, her father's mbfortunes, and her subsequent conduct, are, perhaps, too well known to render any observation necessary. She has been honoured with the patronage of the Qneen. BRIGHTON. 17S Mr. John Bruce, 6, Pool-lane. Mr. Joseph Cordwell, 4, St. James's-street. Mr. George Crowhurst, Old Stejne. Baroness de Fabeck. Mr. Edward Fox, 3, Brighton -place. Mr. James Hardy, 163, North-street. Mr. John James Masquerier, 8, Western Cottages. Mr. Louis Parez*, 6, Regency- square. Mr. Francis Carter Pollard, 32, Black-Iion-street. Mr. Charles Scott, 35, West-street. Mr. William Scott, 43, Regency-square. Miss Emily Scott, (and portrait,) Do. Miss IVIaria Scott, (and flowers,) Do. Mr. Charles Woolcott, SO, Marlborough-place. LANGUAGESt. Signor Frederic Amati, 49, Montpellier-road. Mr. J. N. Binau, French and Italian, 19, Bedford-square. Mr. Charles de Cothi, 2, Cannon-place. INIonsieur Desquarts, 24, Regency-square. Mr. C.Dusart, Bedford-street. Madame Ewalt, (German, French, and piano,) 2, St. Mar- garet's-place. Baron de Fabeck. Signor Louis Straccia, Italian, 34, Western-street, WRITING. Mr. Prideaux Rickards, (and mathematics,) 7, Western Cottages. Mr. Wilb'ara Gresley, 18, Richmond-place. Mr. John Marchant, 49, North street. Mr. S. T. Saunders, 5, Waterloo-place. * This gentleman has published a pictorial work on " the Banln of the Loire." f A Spanish gentleman, of the rank of Don, does or did teach the Spanish language, and also the guitar, in Clarence Place ; we have lost the lefereoce to his name, but think it right to mention the drcumstanoe. 174 COAST OF SUSSEX. FENCING. Mr. Claudius Michelet, 4, Grand Parade. DANCING. Mr. James Brown, 19, Gloucester-place. Miss Corrie. Mr. James Hervet D"'Egville, 69, Marine Parade. Monsieur, Mde, and MUes Michau, 11, Cannoo-place. Mr. C. Wright, Royal Colonnade. SCHOOLS. The number of these of all kinds, both for young ladies and gentlemen, is about ninety. The principal for boys are. Dr. Proctor's, Kemp Town ; Dr. Everards', Wick House ; and Mr. FenneFs, Temple. There are several handsome Bazaars in the town, which the visitor will easily discover. The lodging and boarding houses are bv far too numerous to mention ; nor can we specify their terms, which, of course, vary considerably with the locality and time of year. PLEASURE BOATS. "O Pescator dan' onda Fidalin. O Fescator dall' onda FidaKn. Vien pescar in qua, CoDa bella tna barca, Colla beDa, se ne va; Fi da lin, lin la." Music is never heard on the water at Brighton, except in the case of a steam-vessel taking a trip to the Isle of Wight or Hastings; but nothing could have a more beautiful effect BBIGUTOK. 175 than either instrumental or vocal music on a calm sea, when it is " like a silver lake." We should think, if one of the larger description of pleasure-boats could set up a portable band, it would add very much to the attraction. The magnificent *' Fishing Chorus" in IVIasaniello would sound extremely appropriate; we should willingly hear any thing but the Chevalier Neukomm's ridiculous (saving his merit in other compositions) and ridiculously be-praised song, *' The Sea.** *' We are where we would ever be," — just now, out of the reach of hearing it*. The charge for row-boats, when the whole boat is taken, is 3s. an hour, and for sailing-boats 5*. ; but either take parties, and the individual sum is then very small. There are seven or eight large sailing -boats plying daily, which take parties for an hour and a half's sail, usually about nine miles, for about 1*. 6d. each. Some of these are of con- siderable aze, 30 feet long, and 15 tons burthen, cutter- rigged ; and this description of boat in a high wind and strong swell, is certainly safer than the lugger-rigged, from the great ease and expedition with which the sails can be shifted. We have been on board them in quite as rough weather as most readers would desire, and should not easily fear for their safety. Whilst, on the other hand, the smaller boats are equally safe when the weather is at all calm ; and can sometimes be launched, and come on shore, with greater expedition. The occasional parties in these boats are often highly plea- sant to those who are at ease on the ocean; there is more interest, sociability, and excitement, than in the chance meet- ings in a land carriage. Rencontres with very agreeable persons are now and then thus effected, and renewed on succeeding days ; and such incidents are sometimes amongst the greenest Oases in the chequered desert of life. * Especially with the atrcent and pronunciation of the streets of London ; " ThurMe— thur«ee— thur O! O! Ol j>a-»-an See/" 176 COAST OF SUSSEX. Small atr(otning UiUagetf. HOVE lies one mile to the west of Brighton, from whence it is a pleasant walk in summer, over the fields. Its harbour has been, for upwards of a century, choked up by the sand and shingles ; but it has a few fishing-boats, also a small number of bathing machines and lodging-houses, including a handsome range, or terrace, now almost completed. A fishery was at- tempted, about twenty or thirty years ago, to be established here, including in the plan a range of dwelling and curing houses, occupying three sides of a square, facing the sea; but it entirely failed. The church is now, to all but confirmed antiquaries, a mean and unprepossessing object; but, for the sake of the former, we must give the best account of its ancient ichnography which the slight vestiges and ground marks will allow us to trace. The present fragment, which has a pigeon- house wooden steeple, appears to have been the centre aisle of a building which had three aisles, a chancel, one or two porches, or small transepts, and a large tower, of immense solidity, which fell down about forty years back, and its materials were used in erecting an object in Goodwood Park. This is a pre- bend in Chichester Cathedral. Arches four in number, on each side, out of five, which divided the building into three low aisles, are traceable on the side walls ; they are of the early Gothic, with cylindrical columns, similar to those of the priory church of Boxgrave. We supp>ose the following, in Poj)e Nicholas' Taxation, refers to this place. " Vicar' de Huna, 5L Os. Od. non excedit." In 1801, the population was 101 only; in 1811, 312; and the value of real property in 1815, 1839/.*: in 1831, the inhabitants had increased to 1S60. * That of Brighton, at the same period, waa 71,515/L PRESTON. 1T7 PRESTON is the first village on the London road, about one mile from, the new church. The fine trees adjoining the road here, on both of its sides, form a very cheerful relief to the sterility of the coast, and the lively traffic and frequent parties coming from or returning to Brighton render it very pleasant. In a large house, on the right hand, it is reported that Anne of Cleves re- sided for some time, and a portrait of that queen is said to be still preserved in one of the rooms. The church is a humble edifice, of the 13th century, with a nave, small chancel, and slender tower, with pointed roof. Some old fresco paintings, lately discovered, are described in the Archaeologia, vol. xxiii.^ and the " British Magazine," No. I. Preston appears to have been a considerable demesne at the rime of the Doomsday survey. " The Bishop himself holds Preston. It always was in" (the possession of) " the monastery. In the time of King Edward, and now, it answers far 10 hides. The land is xii carucates ; in domain is one-half (Qy.) in Lewea three hagce of xviii pence. There is a church, and xv acres of meadow^ and wood for 2 hogs' pannage. Of this manor Lovel holds two hides, and has two carucates there, and nine villains as (ceu) three bordars "Ao*- pitibus" eleven carucates, and one mill there. It is worth xl shillings. " The whole manor in the time of King Edward was worth xviii pounds, and afterwards x pounds ; now xviii pounds. Formerly it was at twenty- five pounds farm, and could render it. " The canons of Chichester hold, in common, xvi hides, which they, never gilded, as they say, and have there four carucates in domain. This is worth vui poands." In 7 James, " Amongst the lands assigned for Prince Henry's maiDte-> nance is" Sussex, M. de Prestonc, p. an. S9L ; 1663. It was intended for part of Queen Katherine's jointure, and the fee farm rent was 66/. 35. lid.; but it is doubted whether this was not another Preston in Pevensey Rape, as is the case with some other particu- lars mentioned of a Preston in the Burrell MSS. . In Pope Nicholas' Taxation, is, "Vicar de Preston, 51. 6s. 8d. non exccdit," and " Bona Ep'i Cicestr'; Preston, 371. 14*. Sd.'* The population in 1801 was 222; 1811, 235; 1821, 319^ living in 53 houses ; 1831, 4~9; value of property in 1815, 1908^ 178 roAST OF SUSSEX. PATCH AM is a neat and agreeable village, on the high road, two miles beyond Preston, a distance often resorted to for one hour's ride. It contains about 500 inhabitants; has a decent church ou the right, and on the opposite side a pleasant seat, with a very pretty hanging wood, or shrubbery. %* POYNINGS. Near this place is the celebrated " Devil's Dyke," a bold chasm in the Downs, but whether formed by Nature or Art has not yet been positively ascertained. The view from hence is one of the grandest in the county, and its easy distance from Brighton, five miles, renders it a popular object to be visited. A poetical version of the nonsensical tale appertaining to the Dyke was composed by Mr. Hamper, a man of erudition, but it is so ridiculously puerile, that it would be a waste of space to introduce it. The number of inhabitants at Poynings in 1831 was 268. In Pope Nicholas is ** Eccl'ia de Poninges, 81. Os. Od." The church is in the form of a cross, but without aisles, having a neat square tower in the centre. ITie present rector is Dr. Holland, Precentor of Chichester, a gentleman much esteemed in the neighbourhood. The interior contains some re- mains of tracery, monuments, and painted glass. This church was rebuilt by direction of the will of Michael de Poynings, one of the Barons of that noble family, in 1369' In this ancient and really illustrious stock, the manor of Poynings was vested, from a period soon after the Conquest till the year 1446, when the Barony, owing to the marriage c^ the heiress, merged into the Earldom of Northumberland, and became extinct, with some other of its honours, in 1679. Several of this family were highly distinguished for their braverj and worth, as recorded by Froissart, and other ancient chroniclers. See the British Magazine, No. V., where there is a very inter- esting account of Poynings. POYNINCS. 179 We have abridged the following particulars from the Burrell MSS. :— IVIichael de Poynings, a Banneret under Ed. III., at the Battle of Cressy, summoned to Parliament from the 16th to 42nd of Edward III., on the danger of the French invasion, was appointed one of the guardians of the sea^^ait of Sussex. He died in 43rd Ed. III., bequeathing his body to be buried at Poynings, near his mother's grave, southward. Left 200 marks to build a new church at Poynings*; lOt to make a new north aisle at Slagham, with an altar dedicated to St. *' cordde "-f- of silver, enamelled in the form of the arms of James. He left to the church of Chichester, a cup with a the Earl of Arundel ; 10/. to the Friars Carmelites at Shore- ham, in aid of the building of their new church ; to our Ladj of Walsingham, 1 0/. ; to his wife, of plate, a pair of new- basins, with ewers of silver, and two silver pots, each of half- a-gallon, and one basin of silver " &Z amoigne^ ■};■■, and twelve basins and twelve salvers of silver; to his heir, a ruby-ring, *' which is the charter of my heritage of Poynings," all the armoury and breast-plates which his father left him, also a pair of basins, with ewers of silver, twelve basins, with twelve salvers of new silver ; two Annuals at Poynings and Slagham ; 400 marks to his daughter Margaret for her marriage; if she died unmarried, the same to be at the disposal of his executor. Richard Poynings, in 8 Henry VI., bequeathed his body to be buried in the churchyard at Poynings, if it do please his wife ; if not, wherever else it pleases her. He left to his beloved wife, the Lady Arundel and Maltravers (with all his heart and soul), all his goods, wheresoever present or to come ; to his venerated cousin, Wm. Arundel, son of this said wife, a piece of his piece of the holy cross. * 200 marks were also left by his wife Joan, wbo died soon after him, for the same purpose. The ancient residence at Poynings was burnt down in the year 1727, but its restiges are still discernible. f Sir W. Burrell could not translate these expressions from the original Norman- French ; it is not, therefore, to be wondered at, that we bare also ^ed. N 2 ise COAST OF SUSSEX. In 31 Henry V'l., Robert Poyningr,, of Southwark, Esq. being carver, sword-bearer, and chief actor with Jack Csde, was pardoned, but bound in recognizances in the Court of Chancery ; but having afterwards stirred up riots in Kent, an extent was issued against his estate. The manor was estimated at ten knights' fees. And we give a concluding extract from the British Maga^ zine, before mentioned : — " His ruby ring of inheritance, the charter of * the Sires de Ponynges/ came into possession of his son Thomas, and then to his second son Richaid, who made another wealthy marriage with Isabel, the heiress of Fitzpayne, and, following the military disposition of his ancestors, accompanied John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, into Spain, to claim the Crown of Castile, in 9 and 10 Richard II. He died in this last expedition, when sidmes through the army proved so destructive, not only to great Lords, Kni^ta^ and Squires, but 'out of 15,000 men of arms, and 4,000 archers, who went with the Duke from England, never returned,' says Froissart, *the half part.' As if in anticipation of his fate, he appointed that, should he die in such place as that his body could not be buried at Poynings, there shoald be a stone of marble provided, with an escutcheon of his arms and an helmet under his head- He appointed also masses and trentals for the soob of his father, mother, grandfather, brother, sisters, and all his aUies ; and also for the souls of Sir Thomas Heryngaunt, Richard Poynings, his micl^ Robert Boteler, and John de Lye, and for his own and all Christian souls. It is impossible for a thoughtful and kind heart to read this and connect it with the fact of the testator's death in a foreign land, and in the midst of so numerous an army stricken down by pestilence, without feeling pleased that the expression of some concern for the future condition of so many human creatures was not forgotten. In this legacy, his kind and noble spirit seems to have shown (in the way which tlie rehgion of the times prescribed) that affectionate solicitude for the welfare of others, which not to fed, in some form, woe to be destitute of that charity which is the essence of all religion." EASTERN COAST. ROUTE FROM BRIGHTON TO HASTINGS. KII.ES MIIjES KOTTINODEAN NEWHATEK . ERAFORD . . HASTBOURME SEA HOUSES • 4 rWISSBEY .... 5 5 BEXHUiL ..... 8 5 ST. LEONARDS . . 7 BASTINGS .... 1 4t On leaving the Signal House, to the right beyond Kemp Town, the road continues in a straight direction, passing over one or two hills, with no material objects, except good sea and coast views when looking back upon Brighton, to Rottingdean, four miles distant from the former place : this road has, within a few years, been diverted to a greater space from the edge of the clifF than it formerly occupied, when it was proved to be dangerous in dark evenings by some lamentable accidents. Rottingdean is a neat and pleasant village, with one street running up into the countrv, from an opening in the cliff, which affords convenient facilities for bathing. Several houses, facing the sea, are adapted for visitants, who may prefer the quiet to the bustle and publicity of Brighton, and have the advantages of the former when they choose to visit it; we believe that a few years back this was still more the case than it is at present. There are bathing machines and private baths here. The church, on the left of the road, is an old, solid-looking building, with a tower, terminating in a pointed roof, between a nave and chancel ; it is supposed to have been formerly larger, and is neat in the interior. One or two pleasing inscriptions may be found in the churchyard ; the following is for Wm. Savage, vicar, who died Sept. 4, 1619. ** Great Aaron's son, one of the Levite's tmn. Lies here, wiih comfort for to rise again ; A man of peace, the poorer people's friend ; A faithful Abraliam liv'd and made an end." 182 COAST OF SUSSEX. The Wells at Rottingdean are currently reported to be affected by the tide ; viz. to be nearly empty at high and full at low water. The causes of this phenomenon we leave for the investigation and amusement of the curious. But what will perhaps better please the generality is, that very pretty pebbles, of a bluish colour, and nearly transparent, are to be picked up on the beach, which are susceptible of a fine polish. *' Rotingeden " is mentioned, with a various reading, ** Ro- kohingeden," in Pope Nicholas' Taxation, 1291, when the church was valued at 13/. 6s. 8d. per annum, and belonged to the priory at Lewes ; the vicar had also 10/. per annum. The valuation of real property, in 1815, was 2,895/., and the population, in 1831, was 880, an increase of more than 800 since the year 1801. From Rottingdean to Newhaven no villages are met with ; the road ascends and descends several steep eminences, but has nothing interesting, except, in summer, a quiet and pastoral appearance, when the dark green of the South Downs is diversified by extensive and wide-spread flocks of fine sheep. The cliffs to the right of the passenger are in some places bold, with many inequalities of height, but continuing upon the whole on the ascent. On approaching Newhaven, an interesting view opens into the interior, following the course of the Ouse to Lewes : from the hill, about a mile west of the town, both sides of the river appear absolutely spotted with little villages, not a mile distant from each other, each consist- ing of a small cluster of houses, some dark shading trees, and a church. We descend a steep hill into the town, with the church on an eminence nearer to the sea on our right: its low and massive tower, with a pointed roof, or obtuse spire, con- trasts not advantageously with the small and modernized body of the edifice. NEWHAVEN. HISTORY. The original appellation of this place at the time of the Norman survey was Meeching: it seems to have attained little consequence or notoriety for several succeeding centuries. NEWUAVXN. 183 The Chronicler Stowe asserts, that, in 1545 the French made a descent at Newhaven, *' and there lauded many cap- taines and souldiers, who, by the valiantenesse of the gentlemen and yeomen of Sussex, were slain and drowned in the haven a grete number of them, and the rest hardly recovered their ships and galleyes." Prior to the year 1731 , the harbour was in a neglected and decayed state ; in that year an act of parliament was obtained for its repair, and permanent maintenance. The following particulars of debates and proposals on the subject brought forward in 1724 are extracted from the Lan$- downc MSS. in the British Museum : LANSDOWNE MS. 846. " To the Honourable the Commons of Great Britain in Parliament assembled. The humble petition of the Mayor, Jurats, and Freemen of the ancient town and port oi Rye, in Sussex, in behalf of themselves, and many hundreds of his Majestie's faithful sul^ects — Humbly shewetli — That the Commissioners who met at Rye on the eighteenth day of Jane last, (in pursuance of the act passed the last sessions of Parliament for restoring the harbour of Rye to its ancient goodness,) did not then agree on any method towards restoring the said harbour. That npon farther examination it appears very practicable to make good the said harbour, by cutting a canal from the Wiuchelsea river, right out to the sea, where there is immediately deep water, and will be consequently more safe and commodious, for the coming in and going out of vessels, than the present passage is. But as some doubts have arisen, whether there is sufficient authority by the said act to proceed on such scheme, your petitioners implore this Honourable House to take the premises into considoation, and to give such rehef therein, as to their great wisdom shall seem proper most effectually to restore the said harbour of Rye, for the benefit of the navigation of this kingdom, and the security of the Lives and Properties of very great numbers of His Majestie's Loyal Subjects. And your peti- tioners shall ever pray, &c. Here occur some letters of Mr. \Varburt(Mi, inquiring into the state of the harbour, the last of which is as follows. *' Worthy Sir, " In my last I acquainted you vrith my having writ to Captain Mark- wick, for a report of the present state of Newhaven, and the methods proper to be taken to make a harbour there. — ^And I have herewith sent yoa a copy of his answer, together with the Petition which I sent to the Honourable Mr. Pelham, one of the representatives for Sussex, with his Letter to me about it; all which I desire you will peruse; and give me your advice in relation to my future Proceedings, particularly as to the best ways of raising money to defray the ex{)ence of the Bill, (which I intend to get brought into the house the next sessiuns of Parliament,) and alio 18I- COAST OF SV»SEX. ^making and kcejiing the said Harbonr when the act of Parliament is obtained. I will oniy add that I am your most obliged and most obedient servant, Jon A\'arburton, Somerse. " College of i\rms, London, Mardi, 1724." " Sir, — I receired your 1" last night, and have endojied Mr. Pdhams letter, and a fair copy of the petition. The House not setting I sfaall be at Putney on Monday, and will do myself the Honour to wait opon 700 at AVimbleton. I am Sir, your humble serv', L. Kenn, Saturday, 4 April, 17:24. To John AVarburton, Esq', at his house at \\'imbleton, Sarrey." " Sir — Att my return from Brighthelmstone, y* preservatkm rf which place is now under my care, I found yours, and hare perused the paper sent to me, dated the 8th of this instant, and doe agree and am fiilly of your opinion, that the making or restoring the harbour at Newhaven, will to all intents and purposes answer all y* good and benefitt that can be pro- posed for shipping ; in the first place it will be a fine midway cooTeniency between Portsmouth and the Downs. 2d. It will offer weQ for aban- dance of shipping in distress of weather and violent storms, that come from South and South-west winds. 3d. In time of War, and especiaDy one with Fracce, as you hint, it would be a means to save many a good Merchant's Sliipps from being taken by pirates, and in my Judgement will be much better and more to y* benefitt of our merchants and their ship- ping for a Harbour to be at Newhaven than Rye, and may be made with a quarter of the charge. In Newhaven there is harbour room eiKMigh for a great number of ships, and thus far I doe agree with you as to your senti- ments about Newhaven. And now I crave leave to offer my opinion in what, and what only will be necessary to make Newhaven as good a har- bour as the nature of the place will admit of, which will be a very good tide harbour, by which 1 mean a vessel of 800 or 1000 tun may come att Halfe filoud into the harbour, and by the way Rye can be no more than a tide harbour, and Newhaven may be made every deale as good and mach safer and easier when in harbour for the shipping. — ImprL Att Newhaven, there must be a peer on the west side, but the situation of the place is on a chaike Hock, it has flints in it, it wiU not admit of piles to be drove withoat shattering and splitting the rock, that the piles will not stand fast. Bat that dot'th not Hinder the otherwise fijdng of a good strong and substan- tial lasting Peer*, which will be one great point towards the mating and restoring of a harbour. " i^d. On y East there must be 3 or 4 Groynes to mentaine and keep j* beach and sand as it is ; for soe soon as a western Peer is erected it will rake to the East ar.d lay all bare by carrying all away, beach and stones and sand, and what now defends and secures the sea from swallowing up of a fine rich parcell of land of the Duke of Newcastells, and by it q»oile the intended harbour. " 3d, M'here the old peer was there must be a shutt made to direct the water all in a straight line to sea close under the peer so to be made. " 4th. It will be proper for a light to be erected westward upon the hill at the harbours mouth which will be a good gmde in y* night for shipping * The reader will not mistake this for a member of the House of Lords. >EWHATEN. 185 either to come in or to sheere ckar of the barboar, and will be nye enoi^i to Burling and Bourne points, whirh i« IVnchy heaH, for alt shipping to take timely notice and stand off to sea not being aboTe two leagnea and a half from Newhaven to Boom point. " 5thly. — To make any locks or sluses on Lewes river will not be cooTe- nient ; for the rivar from Lewes is not rapid, is low and flat, and the marshes aboute Lewes are low, and sews batt lazely to sea; and to effect of makeing of locks or sluses, or any other workes of that kind with the walb and banks yt must be made is sudi a charge that it must not be mentiooed to us this proposal, neither can it be thought soe advantageous for Lewo^ since all goods of what kind soever may and have the benefit of lightemge either up or down to the harbxir, the place where the shipping lyes. "6thly. — Neither will such locks or sluses add one jot to the better sewing or draining of the marsh lands about Lewes, bat rather make it die worse. " 7thly. — As for a small tart of 8 or 10 guns to be made neaie the harbour mouth at a convenient place may be of great service in time of war, but of that when that shall be. I have several times viewed Newhaven at the request of his Grace the Duke of Newcastle, bat nothing hitherto has been done. I have told his Grace that 5 or £6000 would do so much for Newhaven towards a harbour that a small tunage on vessels would not only maintain bat add to the wra-ks. " Your most humble servant, W" Markwick — to J. AFarbortOD, &c. " March 14**, 17'24. — Sir — I received your letters, and have considered of the proptosals you make in relation to a harbour att Newhaven. I am of opinion any thing of that kind will be impracticable this year. The sp^taon drawing very near to a conclusion and we having already passed a bill in the house of commons for making one at Rye, which is in the same county. I also think that the method D. Fuller proposes for raising the money wiD not do ; the merchants will spurn any further toll upon shipping, and that of the jews has been often rejected in parliament. However, I shall be glad to contribute any thing to the success of so useful a work, and especially for the service of a county I have the honour to represent. •* I am. Sir, your very humble servant, H. Pdham. " Captain Markwich and I have often talked of this affiur when he viewed the haven for my iHOtber's land." Next appears a long letter of Th. Fuller, in sabstanoe much as CapL Mark wick's, till as follows: " This is not a new project, but was not only thought of many yean ^o but was attempted ; and I sr^^pose fell again, not because it was found impracticable, but for want of public spirit to advance the money, and able engineers to continue the work ; for, whereas they should have run out their peer on the west side of the haven to keep off the force of the western main, they laid it on the east side, and that did a mischief by stopping Tast drifts of sand, and heaping up such banks as quite choaked the dianneL " He goes on to propose defraying the e^qience by a tax on Jewa, or toO on ships, as before in Pelham's letter. 186 COAST OF SUSSEX. "To the Honorable the Commons of Great Britain in Parliament assembled. "The Humble Petition of the severall Gentlemen, Merchants, and others, living in and near Newhaven, in the county of Sussex, and the places adjacent, on behalf of themselves and several thousands of his Majesty's subjects, sheweth — That there is not between Portsmoath and the Downes (being at least twenty leagues) any Harbour safe and conve- nient for ships to put in at when in Distress by violent storms, occasioned by south or south-west winds, by which means great numbers of ships have been wrecked, which would, by making a harbour, and erecting a light-house in a proper place, be in a great measure, if not entirely, avoided. That Newhaven, in Sussex, (being about the midway between Portsmouth and the Downes, and lying west of Beachy-head,) is, from its sitoationi most fit for that purpose ; and is so formed by nature that it is capable, at much less expence than any other place upon the Sussex coast, by building a Pier on the west side and three or four Groines on the east side, of being made a harbour fit to receive a large fleet of ships, drawing twenty foot water, which can go in and out at half-flood, and ride safe there both from winds and enemies. That the erecting a light-house upon the hill west- ward of Newhaven will be of great service to navigation, by being a certain guide to ships in dark nights, either to come into or sheer deer of the harbour, and is near enough to Burling and Bourn points, which are commonly called Beachy-head, for all ships to take timely notice and stand off to sea. That, in case there should be a war, and more particularly with France, the making a Fort near the harbour mouth would effectually secure our ships from being taken by privateers, which was too frequently the case the last warr. " Forasmuch as there are a great number of ports on the coast of France^ over against Sussex, whereby they have an opportunity of coming out upon our merchant ships by reason they have no place to take shelter in. "That, as the advantages to the public, and especially the trade and navigation of this kingdom, will be very considerable, by preventing of wrecks upon that coast, as well as captures by our enemies. Therefore your petitioners most humbly pray this Honorable House will be pleased to take the premises into consideration, and give them such relief therein as in your great wisdom shall seem most meeL " And your petitioners shall ever pray, &c. Sic" NEWSPAPER EXTRACTS. 1785. STORM. " Sept. 12. — Near Newhaven the waves ran so high, that they dashed over the tops of the cUffs, and rushed into the harbour there with a d^;ree of impetuosity that rendered the water in our river brackish within two miles of die town (Lewes), by which many of the small lands of fish were killed, and seen floating the next day on the surface of the water. — At Bishopstone the sea ran over the fall, and forced a smuggling-boat into the mill-pond, and in an instant swept away upwards of fifty chaldron of coals that were on the mill-wbarfl'* NEWHAVEK. 187 1792. EMIGRANTS. " Lewes Journal, Oct. 8.— The French vessel with emigrants, whidi we mentioned in our last to have been wrecked near Newhaven, was entirdy lost. It brought over a principal family of Normandy, a lady and hop three little daughters, tlie eldest eight, the youngest about three years earance of the harbour, as seen at a little distance, and particularly from the church hill, is cheerful, and indicates some employment. On the north of the churchyard is the neat monumental obelisk, erected in memory of the loss of the Brazen sloop, of eighteen guns, in 1800, off the Ave Rocks, near the town, when Captain Hanson, its commander, a distinguished seaman, who had lately made some extensive voyages, and all his crew of 105 men, with one exception only, perished. The names of the officers are recorded, and the inscriptions are irresistibly touching, indicating the strongest Christian resignation and hope under affliction. The tower of the church stands at the east end, with a small semi-circular recess for the chancel beyond it- It has two very ancient windows, which, though square-topped, have two Norman arches in each resting on a pillar. The body is modem, or modernised, with sash windows. The interior, though insig- niBcnnt, is neat, with a handsome pulpit: it is divided into two aisles by small octagonal stone pillars. Galleries were erected in 1825 to accommodate 175 persons in addition, 120 of whom, by a grant from the society in London, are free. The arches of the tower appear to be early Norman. In 1831, the number of inhabitants in Newhaven was 945. SF.AFORD. ISd The cliffs of Newhaven are about 200 feet high, of striking and picturesque formation. A full account of their structure will be found in Mantell's Geology of Sussex, 4to., a work of erudition, prefixed to which is an ingenious elucidatory disser- tation on the Mosaic history of the creation. Newhaven harbour is esteemed one of the best tide har- bours between Dover and the Isle of Wight ; having several times afforded shelter to ships of 350 tons in tempestuous weather. The principal importation is coal, which is carried up the Ouse a distance of twenty miles. Coastwise, foreign timber is brought and English oak exported for the use of the dock-yards ; also flour, butter, and com. At the entrance of the harbour is a small fort : off this is also moored the Hype- rion frigate, as the head-quarters of the coast blockade of this district, from which supplies of men are occasionally drafted to various points, and it has three cutters attached to its operations. At the bottom of the town a small draw-bridge leads over the narrow river on the road to Seaford. Approaching this ancient port, now at a little distance from the sea, the shore is bold and wild, diversified with lofty cliffs, and an irregular strand intersected by several winding creeks : the views of the rocks of Newhaven are also striking. At the entrance of Sea^ ford is a small fort. SEAFORD. HISTORY. This was a lordship of the Earls de Warren, one of whom, in the reign of Edward I., gave to the church and monks of St- Mary de Grestinen his customs and liberties of lestage, pontage, and passage in Seaford, which was confirmed bj the king ; but we find that in the same reign Daniel, the king's butler, had 11. rent in the same town, formerly belonging to Gilbert de Aquila. Edward II. confirmed a gift which Ri- cherin de Aquila made to the said convent. John, Earl of AVarren, having no children, made over his inheritance bj a special grant to Edward, from whom he received, as a recom- 190 COAST OK SUSSEX. pense, for his life, the castles of Conisburgh and Sandale and the manors of Wakefield and Halifax in Yorkshire- He died in 21 Edward HI., when all his possessions fell to the crown, except a few which had been re-granted, with remainder to his natural son by Maud de Hereford. In 42 Edward III., Mi- chael, Lord Poynings held it ; at his death it was granted to Henry Fitzalan, Earl of Arundel, who having forfeited it by treason, Richard II. granted it, as a reward for distinguished services, to Thomas de ^Mowbray, Earl of Nottingham, and afterwards Duke of Norfolk. But in 8 Edward IV. we find it assigned to Elizabeth his queen, for life. James I. in the fourth year of his reign, assigned it to the executors of Wil- liam, Lord Mounteagle, in con^deration of good services done to him by that nobleman. " 4 Jac. Rex, &c. Salutem. Sdatis qaod nos in oonaderatioDe booi servicii nobis p' praedilecttim et fiiidem subdictum n'm Wflkn Dd'hi Mounteagle ad nominatioDem ejus domus, et concedlmus Geo Rivers loiliti et Thomse Bridges annigero bered' et assign' guis totnm ill' Bargain n'm de Seaford in Com' nr'o, Sussex, cam p'tin, p'cell possession' Dacatos n'li Lancastr' existen', ac omnes illos redditus assis ib'm attingen's ad 58 solidoa, 3 denar p' an ; necnon novos redditos ib'm attingen's ad 2 solidos et 2 de- narios p' an' ac perqaisidones coris ib'm coib's annis acciden' atdngen' ad 2 solidos 6 denar' — Qui quidem Burgus de Seaford et cetera premissa p'ceO^ dicti Burgi de Seaford p' particular' inde extenduntur ad dannn annu* valorem £2. li». Oi." The nonal inquisition, in the reign of Edward III., is to the following purport : « SEFFORD. " Hec indentura testator q'd in'qs' capt' est ap'd Lewes xviii die marc* an" r r Edward' tert' post co'q'st xv" cor' Henr' Husee et sodjs sais venditor' et assess' ix' et q'ndecime garb' veil' et agn' in oomitat' Sussex' : Et comp't' est p' AV'ill'm Cowes Adam Hebbe John Tanner et Rob'tm Goyer p'ochi- anos eccl'ie de Sefford jurat' q' dicu't p' sac'rra sua' q'd ix' garbar' p'odi* p'dict' val' hoc a" xl'. It'm dicunt q'd n'o sunt agni neq' vdT in podi* p'dict' et dicu't q'd licet ecl'ia taxat' ad vii marc' tu' n'o possu't respooder' ad taxara p' eo q'd vicarius eccl'ie b't oblat'oes q' val'nt p. anna' xxxiii*. It'm h't dec' navig' piscar' q' val* p' annu' xiii*. iiii*. It'm h't decim* vitTo'r et porco'r q' val't p' aima' vi'. viij'*. It' dicu't p'dict* jurat' q'd so't no* inm'cator's in vill' p'dict' q' no' vivu't de ag'cultura. Un' q'ndec* vaTt iiij m'rc' et no' ultra, q' p'ochia p'dict' p' divers' insult' inimico'r n'ro'r de Francia sepe et multiplidt' est destmcta*, ac boi'es p'och 'p'dict' corp'air v'lna't' et occisi. In cuj' rei testimo' sigill' p'dico'r jurat' p'sent' su't ^p'c * An evidence of several French incursions. tEAFORD. 191 The town is a member of the cinque port of Hastings. It returned members to parliament, from the twenty-sixth of Edward I. to the twenty-first of Richard II, without intermis- sion : the right was discontinued from that time to the reign of Edward VI., when it was renved, and continued to the pre- sent day. This borough had a Customal as well as the other cinque ports. One of the articles was, that the lord should not receive a heriot ; another, that the younger son should be his father's heir of land and other possesions *. In this town was a hospital, dedicated to St. Leonard, for which the bailiffs and commonalty held lands in trust Formerly there were four or five churches and chapels, and various foundations have been discovered, indicating that its size was once far more considerable. In the famous armament of 1347, it furnished five ships and eighty-one men f . Beneath the cliff is a round bastion of stone, imagined to be of the time of Henry VIII. A little east of the town is Cuckmere Haven. The History of Eastbourne, 1787, asserts that the Dutch offered l,000,000i sterling for the possession of this harbour, or the right of anchoring here, but were from policy refused : this story does not appear very probable. There were formerly two other batteries in or near Seaford, to defend the port. In the parish is Corsica Hall, a handsome mansion, and Chinting Castle, an ancient intrenchment ; and it gives the title of baron to the family of Ellis. In 1831, the number of houses was 198, and of inhabitants 1047. NEWSPAPER EXTRACTS. 1783. EMUOOIfBS ; Dovm. " Extract of a letter from a gentleman, at Stafford, Sussex, SepL 18. — There is a most convenient port, about a mile from Seaford, for smugg^era to land their goods, and so daring are they become, that a dozen or more cutters may frequently be seen laying-to in open day. On Tuesday evening, between two and three hundred smugglers on horseback came to Cookmere, and received various kinds of goods from the boats, 'till at last the whole number were laden, when, in defiance of the king's oiBcere, they • Burrell MSS: From Testa, de Nevill; Dugdale, Men.; and Rowe*a MSS. — Account of Eastbourne, 1787. f FennanU 192 CUAST OF SUSSEX. went their way in great triumph. Abouta week before this, upwards of three hundred attended at the same place; and though the sea ran mountains high, the daring men in the cutters made good the landing, to the sur- prise of every body, and the men on horseback took all away. " Alfreston races begin on Tuesday next. It is only tliree miles from Seaford. I never was in so mountainous a country in my life. Go where you will, you are still surrounded by hills and mountains, and, what seems extraordinary to me, the whole is in a state of cultivation ; in some places com, m others turnips, potatoes, and all kinds of v^etables, without even a wall or partition to be seen. The variegated colours of the earth have an amazing pleasing effect. Those who have herds, have shepherds to keep them on their own ground. I rode yesterday about seven miles over these mountains, upon the top of which, when I looked down, it made my head giddy." 1803. ULNDING OF THE FRENCH. ** The Lewes paper, received yesterday, says, that one day last week despatches from the Commander-in-Chief, his Royal Highness the Doke of York, and Major-General Lennox, were received by the Colond com- manding at Bletchington barracks, stating, that the French, should thejr succeed in crossing the Britisli Channel, would certainly attempt a landing in Seaford bay, and directing a strict and vigilant watch to be kept np in consequence. The purport of these despatches were next day given out in orders at the head of the regiment stationed in the above barTacks." 1804. FARMERS. " It would be unjust not to mention the exemplary conduct of varioiu of the farmers in this county, on being unexpectedly called on to afford such accommotlations to the troops, as, from the urgency of the case, they stood in need of; and which the following note, which was pre&ented to Mr. ^V^orgen, of Alfriston, will in some measure exemplify : — " Head-quarters, Alfriston, Friday moming. " Lieutenant-Colonel Frith, and the officers of his Majesty's First or North Battalion of Hampshire Militia, cannot leave Alfriston, without returning their thanks for the obliging attention which they have expe- rienced from the inhabitants of this town and neighbourhood. They feel that they have been received as brethren engaged in one common causey the defence of their country, and all that it contains most near and dear ; and they b^ leave to request, that Mr. Wargen will have the goodness to make their acknowledgments as publicly known as possible." — Jan. 9. 1807. PRIVATEER. "Dec. 28. — On Saturday moming last a desperate attempt was made by a French privateer to capture two loaded colliers, lying-to off" Seaford, a distance of thirteen miles from this town. In capturing, and sending off* one, the enemy succeeded, and was proceeding to take possession of the second ; the latter, however, fortunately mounted two or three swivels, a well-directed discharge from which, it is supposed, gave an unexpected ^uie^ls to several of the assailants." OEAKOKD. 193 1809. STORM. " Lewes, Dec. 7. — Early this morning signal-guns of distress, rockets, &c were fired in the bay of Seaford, a distance of twelve miles from this place. The people in the neighbourhood hastened to the beach, whoi » most melancholy spectacle presented itself!— as many as seven vessds being ashore, the whole within the distance of half a mile. At day-break the scene was such as almost to pass description— men on rafts, others on the shrouds, while many were discovered washing from the decks — drew tears from the beholders ; but every exertion was used to preserve as many hves as possible. The following description, though only of a small part of this melancholy catastrophe, will, no doubt, prove satisfactory to the friends of those who have escaped a watery grave; the particulars of which have been collected from the crews of the different vessels: — " On Tuesday last the Harlequin hired armed sloop of war, of 18 guns, having under convoy twenty-three sail of ships, sailed from Plymouth, at four o'clock P.M. ; and on Thursday morning, about three o'clock, one of the ships was ordered to direct the fleet to keep within the convoy. About an hour after, the Harlequin, with six others, struck, and became total wrecks. The following are the names of the ships which are lost: — the Weymouth ship, four of her crew lost ; Traveller brig, Albion sdiooner, and Unice, crews all saved; Pramsitwibow ship, 14 lost; and Methedacht Bhip, all lost. — Farther particulars to-morrow." DESCRIPTION. The church is the nave only, or part of the nave, of one of the old churches of Seaford, with a tower, and a small rebuilt chancel. It has been barbarously repaired and defaced, with several projections and additions of brick-work ; but in spite of all injuries, has some vestiges of loftiness and grandeur. The tower, rather lofty, and with three slightly receding stories, which add much to its appearance, is chequered with flint and stone. The general style is the early Gothic • ; has lofty and bold arches two on each side of the nave, resting on circular columns, with foliated capitals; above these were large lancet-shaped clerestory windows, now under a roof which covers the aisles also. A strong pointed arch opens into the tower, above which, however, are the traces of a Norman one. In the tower are eight bells, re-cast by sub- scription in 1811, to the credit of the inhabitants of this small place, and an example to many others in Sussex, where the case is very different. A national school, for 100 boys and • Mr. Rickman haH made a decided mistake, which is • rare instance with him, in stating tbe church to be of the 14tb century. O 194- COAST OF tCSSKX. 50 girls, is supported at the expense of the present members. The borough, from its small population, is of course dis- franchised by the Reform Bill. From Seaford to Eastbourne the road is hilly, and the sea in general lost to sight by the rise of the lofty cliffs; to the left of the road is a long valley, in which are placed, at small distances, several inconsiderable villages, very similar in appearance, with little gray churches and dark elm foliage. AVest Dean is the only one passed through, to which we descend a steep hill, through a pleasantly wooded lane. The village, on the right, appears considerable ; it has one large house, approached by an avenue of trees, belonging to the Willard family. The tower of the church stands, like a transept, at the middle of the north side, a variety of position not very unusual in this part of Sussex. Soon afterwards, the cliffs of Beachy-head, and the Light-house apjiear. We pass Friston church, belonging to a village of ten houses, and consequently of the humblest description, yet from its elevated situation, serving as a land-mark to vessels. The country opens on descending to the town of Eastbourne; the Sea- houses, &c. are seen, and the commencement of the long Une of Martello towers indicates the level, which extends to Hast- ings, beyond which is seen Fairlight Down, one of the most commanding eminences on the southern coast. The hills on the right, in the form of an amphitheatre, or bay, seem to intimate that the sea formerly flowed some distance higher up. At the entrance of Eastbourne are barracks for a troop of horse, at present not occupied. EASTBOURNE. HISTORY. Eastbourne contests with several other places in Sussex the title of the Roman settlement Anderida. Pevensey and Seaford are its most probable opponents, as the locality of all the others is too far removed from tlie vicinity indicated by the plans and descriptions of the best authorities. We confess our total inexperience on the subject of Roman antiquities in Britain ; EASTBOCBNV. 195 but we have procured for the reader a far more valuable source of infortnatioD than any hints we could offer, in transferring to our pages the following perspicuous and erudite document in XheBurreUMSS.:— OBSERVATIONS OV THE SOTli OP AKDESIDA. " Avoidiag the ai^uments of others, which would swell to a volume, and attending chiefly to the short authorities left us, it seems rather too difficult a task to fix with certainty the preose spot of the Sussex coast on which Anderida stood ; he that can so do, and please himself on the fair groond of truth and authority, leaving his choice open to no material ohjection, can do more than is in my power; and, it is to be feared, the more it is weighed and compared with all that has been so ingoiioasly urged on the subject, the greater will the difficcdty appear. " The learned Camden placed it at Newenden, in Koit; the sagacaona Somner removed it to Pevensey or Hastings, but inclines to Pevensey ; onr Lewes antiquary. Dr. Tabor, afterwards discovering a Roman bath and pavement, and wide-spread foundations, under ground at Eastboum Sea- houses, removed it to that spot, about four miles distance from Pevensey; which last scite meets with Mr. Horseley's consent in his Britan. Rtxnana, and long had my entire approbation. " But after all these were published, an old map and MS. account of Roman Britain, compiled by Richard of Cirencestar, a monk of West- minster, temp. Richard the Second, which had found its way to Copen- hagen, was there discovered, and is since published, containing, though not a com pleat and accurate account, yet the fullest and best state of Roman Britain hitherto known to the world ; great use has been made of this wwk by the ingenious Mr. AVhitaker, author of the History of Manchester, who yet complains of its want of accuracy, and mistakes in certain parts of the work. I doubt the originals from whence Richard oompUed it were faulty, as himself professes verity, and to have drawn his commentary from certain remains of a certain Roman General, by him left for the use of posterity, as well as from other authorities extant in Richard's days. Still, admitting some fault in Richard's work, we must not wantonly reject his authorities, as both his work and map united give the largest and best state of Roman Britain we ever had, or are likely to have. " And here I take leave to dissent from Mr. Whitaker's opinion, that Richard drew up this map himself; neither the tide to his map, nor what he says of it in the body of his work, p. 40, will, in my opinion, justify the assertion, but that it was copied from very ancient records. Mr. Bertram, his editor, and Dr. Stukeley, his commentator, are both of my opinion ; for surely mere Iters through the Roman provinces, without maps to apply those iters, would hare been but poor blind guides to future Roman officers ; and that the Romans had maps of the then known world is evident from Claud. Ptolemy's Ge(^;raphical Charts, and many others that might be mentioned. " The late learned Mr. Clarke, in his Treatise on Coins, pubhshed since Richard's work, in a note on Hastings, pu 4ol, still persists Anderida mmt O 2 I9G COAST OF tcrssEx. hare been at Hastings, notwithstanding all that Dr. Tabor, and Riduutl, and his Commentators, urge to the contrary, upon good authorities ; whence I think it may be inferred, Mr. Clarke had never seen either of these works, which are both well-founded contradictions of his assertion. " From a view of Richard's map, we are led to think that the sdte of Anderida was at or near Seaford, as being there placed on the east side the exit of a river flowing nearest the meri(Uan hue from London, which best suits with the Lewes river ; unless we can, from the faulty smallneas of its scale, rather persuade ourselves Elastboum is meant, which would recon- cile it to Dr. Tabor's sdte. ** Here an objection starts, as the map has assigned but two rivers, in- stead of five or six, along the whole extent of the Sussex coast; the first is called Trisantitt JIuvius, supposed to be the Arundel river, as next to Reg- num or Chichester, and as Little Hamton still retains half that name; and the other is called, in the Iter, Anderida Porta, but in the map Anderida, and is there marked as a large sea-port town. Now the second, or next, river eastward from Arundel, is the Shoreham river, having its exit near Aldrington ; it may therefore be urged, this was the scite of Anderida, and not Seaford, as being the next river to Trisanton, agreeable to the map. Yet still the Shoreham river wants the pecuhar mark of flowing nearest the meridian line from London, a property pecuhar to the Lewes river, and at the exit of such a river stood Anderida, if we can rely on Richard's map. " The fifteenth iter of Richard has a correspondency with bis map in this particular, but will not help us out of the difficulty, for it proceeds from Regnum, or CludiesteT,to' ad Dec imam' (lapidem), or Arundel, ten miles, and from thence to Anderida Portu, as the very next station ; but m blank being left for the number of miles between these two last stations, it cannot be applied with any degree of certainty, and may as wdl annex this scite to Shoreham as to Seaford. This fifteenth iter grows afterwards still more defective, for a vacuity wide enough for two more stations with their distances is left between Anderida Portu ami Lernaitm, or Lime, in Kent; which vacuity, if we fix Anderida at Shoreham, or Seaford, I would wish to fill up with Eastbourn, or Pevensey Harbour, and Hastings, as proper connecting distances from port to port. " The small scale of Richard's map, and the defects in his iters (not his own, I would presume, but drawn from defective originals), and his omis- sion of all but two of the Sussex rivers in his map, are too uncertain guides to fix this scite on positive unquestionable authority ; yet, so far as it goes in directing us to or towards the centre of the Sussex coast to look for Anderida, it draws our attention from the remoter scites of Hastings to the east, or Shoreham to the west, and narrows the claim to some proper spot a Uttle to the east of the meridian line, which best suits Seaford; and if the faulty smallness of its scale be duly considered, it may admit of Eastbourn as the place meant, though standing more east from the meridian. " The want of Roman remains near Seaford is not of itself a rejection of its claim, for many of the Roman forts and ports were long since over- whelmed by the sea; but it wants some of the properties annexed to Anderida by Henry of Hunt", viz. Seaford was a town standing in his time, and so was Hastings and Shoreham ; but Anderida was tlien destroyed. F.ASTBOCBNE. 197 and never rebuilt, he says. Seaford had no neiglibouring woods, from whence the Britains made excursions, and galled the Saxons in their dege of Anderida, and wliither they flew when faced about upon by the Saxons, and from whence they frequently returned to the charge, and retreated again. I beUeve no such woods even grew near this place, and that all behind it was open downs. Such woods grew near, and surrounded the .^Istuary at Pevensey Harbour, and at Eastbourn ; and from the flat shore near Aldring- ton, much woods might have grown there in elder times, though now the whole is mostly open arable lands : these are negatives in part to Seafoid, and partly agree with Hastings, Pevensey, Eastbourn, and Shorebam. " Again, as the Saxon conquests extended lengthways in Sussex, from west to east, and as Anderida was the last eastward fortified town which resisted and fell a victim to .£lla, so in course we must look for it more easterly than the centre of Sussex ; unless we judge it a place of such strength and consequence, that all submitted to the eastward, as not aUe to withstand the Saxon prowess after its reduction. " The existence of Roman remains at Eastbourn is dear evidence of a Roman settlement there of some sort, but whether as well there as at Pevensey, Hastings, Winchelsea, and Rye, to the east, as at Seaford, %ore^ ham, and Arundel rivers, to the west, the later Roman Turret per inter- valla, mentioned both by Gildas and Richard, were or not placed, still remains a doubt with me, till the scite of Anderida be clearly fixed. These Turres per intervalla were, doubtless, members of the old Roman Ports, like the members of our modem Cinque Ports. Seaford is the present extreme western member of the Cinque Ports, and is the only member of the ports which sends members to Parliament; this privilege is some argument of its quondam importance ; and though Hastings be its head port, which has, indeed, priority over all the Cinque Ports, yet that priority, we leam, was obtained at the Norman advent, and given it by the Con- queror for the assistance it afibrded him before and after his conquest of this kingdom. " If I might be permitted to give my opinion, after stating all this con- fusion of authorities, and doubts, and objections, Eastbourn sea-side will, I think, upon the whole, better answer all the properties of Anderida, mentioned in the foregoing authorities, or in any other authorities I have as yet met with on the subject, than any other place ; it was never after- wards rebuilt, and exhibited the ruins of a noble town in Huntingdon'a days. It had neighbouring woods of oak, and plenty of iron thereabouts, as materials for the Roman navies; it had a good harbour near it, at Pevensey, which continued such till Henry the Third's time, and which was guarded by a strong castle, whose large remains are still in being ; but, as Mr. Hay says in his poem on Mount Cabum, * Whether of Roman or of later date, Remains a secret, which the leam'd debate ; Once a fair port enrich'd the fam'd abode. But herds now graze where royal navies rode.' " Those who know the spot, find a place to the east of Eastbourn, and between it and Pevensey, called Langney, quasi Langaney, or Longwater; 198 COAST OF tUSSKX. and here, before the sea withdrew itself, eeems to have been a long gut of water, communicating from Pevensey to Eastboum Marsh by the sear-dde; this comniuiiication with Pevensey Harbour reconciles Eastboum to the idea of a sea-port ; add to this, a dock to the west of the Roman ruins under the Down, hinted at by Dr. Tabor, and the uncommon pleasant dryness of the spot, commanding a view across the bay to Hastings CUfij adapts it of all others in this quarter as most suitable to the scite of Anderida. Here the bold headland of Beachy intercepted the view of the rest of the Sussex coast from Hastings ; but here a sentry, placed on the headland not two miles from it, might (to use Dr. Tabor's expression), in a clear day, without turning his botly, see the Isle of Wight, the hills in France, near Boulogne, and the Ness, in Kent ; so that, from the Ness to Selsea, it must have been a small sail that could escape his eye. " These are such striking characteristicks^ such strong persuasives, of its having been the spot of all others hereabouts most usefiil for a Roman Fort and Port, as could not well miss the observation of a people so remarkably skilled in the choice of Ecites for their purpose, as the Romans were. Yet all this, and much more that might be fairly adduced as arguments in its favour, will not, ought not, to weigh against the authority of ancient evidences ; nor can the scite be drawn away from Seaford, near which Richard has fixed it, but on the sole ground of the small scale of his map^ where the distance of ten miles is no very great mistake, in die ground- plot of the whole kingdom ; and the mistake further favoured by its leaning on the east side of tlie meridian, as the map places it, and as Eastboum stands. I have but dropped this as matter of observation, not insisting on it as an authority to bias the opinion and judgment of others ; as all who are competent judges will, and ought to, exercise their own opinions on the authorities before them." The Roman vestiges alluded to, consist of a pavement of white and brown tesserce, 17 feet 4 inches by 1 1 feet, and a bath, 16 feet long, 5 feet 9 inches broad, and 2 feet 9 inches deep ; which were discovered in 1717. At the time of the Doomsday survey. Borne was the pro- perty of the Earl of Morton or Mortain ; and had belonged to King Edward, who kept it in his own hands : it contained 46 hides, had been estimated when he received it at 30 pounds, and was then worth 40. The next historical notice of the place is discoverable in that valuable record the Saxon Chronicle^ at the date of 1 114. " A. D. 1 1 1 4. In this year held the king Henry his court on the Nati- vity at ^Vinen during the season. On the right of the Sea-houses, part of Beachy-head is seen at the distance of two or three miles; to view which, aquatic excur- sions are often made, when the tide serves : it turns a softened face, however, towards Elaslboume; its more tremendous heights are concealed by a winding of the shore. To the left the sweep of the ^lartello towers is seen in perspective, and when brightened by the sun, has a lively effect. Nearer the Esplanade, but a short distance further inward, is a large circular Fort or Redoubt, of considerable strength, bomb-proof, and capable of containing about three hundred and fifty men, with provisions for several weeks ; it mounted about twelve pieces of cannon. The circumference of the ditch, which is twenty-three feet deep, and apparently forty or upwards broad, lined with masonry, is upwards of three hundred yards. A clerk of the Ordnance works resides here, also a Deputy Vice-Admiral of the coast, from Newhaven to Rye, agent to Lloyd's, and vice-consul for Sweden and Norway, Mr. R. B. Stone, South-street. The Lamb Inn, at Eastbourne town, is a very comfortable one, and moderate in expense ; there are also others deserving of praise. The Assembly-room, which is a very neat one, is • " The bouse ( Lord George C«Tendish'») is • rrrj good brick btnlding, and a comfortable habitation in winter as well as in summer, the walls being thick and well sheltered. Good dining, drawing, and other rooms, and gallerr, from whence are pleasing land and sea views ; some remarkable fine tapestry, being the history of Don Quixote, and some tolerably good pictures by Sir P. Lely and Sir Godfrey Kneller." — Dncriptiom of Eaxiboumt, ^c. 1787. EASTBOURNE. 807 at the Lamb : one of the cellars of this Inn has a groined roof, indicating it formerly belonged to a religious house, and another shews the commencement of a subterraneous passage leading towards the church, which has been stoppted up. At the sea-houses is the Anchor Hotel, also the King's Arms ; in South-street, the New Inn, a posting-house also, and the Star. Each of the townships contains lodging-houses; and, about half a mile from the Sea-houses is a chalybeate spring, called Holy- well, said to possess qualities equal to those of Bristol, which will, no doubt, be eagerly sought by those who may desire similar benefits. Eastbourne has four respectable medi- cal practitioners, two ladies' and one gentlemen's boarding- schools, and a number of shops of general utility. Eastbourne church is one of the best in the county, has a fine tower of pretty good height, though its elevation appears to be lessened by the ponderous buttresses; the masonry is very excellent. The church, viewed from the S. E., has really a majestic appearance, in spite of the barbarously modernised great window of the chancel, under which is a small projecting vestry. It has three aisles throughout, sepa- rated by eight arches on each side, and is, exclusive of the tower, 124 feet long by 50 broad. The principal features are early Gothic, strong pointed arches, with both circular and octagonal pillars, having flowered capitals. Most of the win- dows have been inserted in the fourteenth century, and are very neat ; but some of the upper ones on the north side are decidedly Norman. The arch opening into the middle chan- cel is also of this character, but has the singularity of a high- pointed arch blocked up above it, which we cannot explain. On the south side is an arch of circular shape, over four seats or recesses; there is also much wooden screen-work. The western aisles are strengthened by two cross arches, from the side walls to the nave, with buttresses or turrets outside. On the north side of the altar is the monument of Dr. Henry Lushington, who died in 1779, and had been forty-four years vicar of Eastbourne ; and of his son, Henry Lushington, of whom we learn the following particulars ; — That he ** went to 206 COAST OF SUSSEX. India at the age of sixteen, and was one of the few survivors of the unfortunate persons confined in the Black Hole at Cal- cutta. By a subsequent revolution, in 1763, he was, with 200 more, taken prisoner at Patna ; and after a tedious imprison- ment, being singled out with five other gentlemen, was, by order of the nabob. Ally Kawn, deliberately and inhumanly murdered. But, while the sepoys were performing their savage office on the first of the sufferers, fired with generous indignation at the distress of a friend, he rushed upon the assassins unarmed, and seizing one of their scimitars killed three of them and wounded two others, till at length oppressed with numbers he fell, at the early age of twenty-six years-" The north and south chancels are used as private burying- places ; at the end of the northern one is a handsome painted window, erected at the expense of J. Gilbert, Esq. : it is formed of old stained glass, and contains some good figures. The interior of the church is decent. In the tower is a small organ, presented by J. Gilbert, Esq. ; near it a monument for Dr. Brodie, late vicar of this parish, with a high encomium on his solid professional worth and liberality, and his great attention to the welfare of the young, which is still remem- bered by the inhabitants. We are informed that he offered a donation of 200/. towards refitting the interior of the church*. In the tower are eight bells, recast from six. Of the strength of these, in former times, we were told a curious anecdote. The fifth bell of the old peal, weighing eighteen or nineteen hundred weight, broke its axle whilst on the full swing, burst througli two floors, providentially missing the person ringing it, struck the arch of the tower, and deriving an additional impetus sunk into the pavement about a foot, without the slightest crack or bruise from its precipitate and ponderous • The present yicar is the Rev. T. Pittman, M. A., a gentlenuui not un- known in the Uterary world, and from whom we experienced much courtesy. The living is reckoned rather a superior one for a vicarage. It may serve as » caution against some very unfair misrepresentations occasionally met with, to state that we were assured by a respectable inhabitant of Brighton, bom at, and formerly resident at, Eastbourne, that the annual '\'alue was not less than 1500/ ; but thinking this improbable, we made an inquiry, the result of which wits, that he had as neorly as possible trrbUd the actual amount. BUACHY HEAD. 209 descent. The great l)ell of St. Sepulchre's, London, weighing thirty-three hundred weight, fell down a few years buck, but was sustained by the beams of the floor beneath ; yet, from this far slighter shock, the bell, which was a modem one, was hicken*, BEACHY HEAD is about three miles distant from Eastbourne, and of course a favourite ride or walk in summer : in winter, the stormj gusts would be too repulsive. This is doubtless one of the finest marine eminences in Europe, whether seen from above or be- low ; in the latter course, however, some degree of fear (pro- nounced by Burke to be essential to the sublime), and pity at the recollected calamities it has been the scene of, will mingle in the conflicting feelings. " Quern mortis timnit gradura Qui siccis oculis monstra natantia. Qui vidit mare turgidum, et Infames scopulos, Acroceraunia ?" Or we may borrow the application of a not less forcible and beautiful description from the pen of the elegant Fenelon : — " Le pilote experimente apperor man''s home was made insupportable by a termagant wife, and some have added that she was too fond of her cups. If so, he hit on the very wisest, as well as most noble and generous method of alleviating his own mis- fortunes, by the pleasure derived from relieving the distresses of others. The view from the summit of Beachy Head has an air of solitary and sublime grandeur ; the keen and ethereal air of this exalted spot would seem almost capable, with thd permission of the presiding and conservative spirit, of restor- ing vigour to the dying *. The height is not so much per- ceived by the spectator, from contemplating the straight ot waving snowy wall of cliff, as by listening to the distant and indistinct murmur of the waves, and looking down upon the thread-like outline of their foaming edges, as they break upon the shore; which, to use the only illustration we can find applicable, look like the trifling froth of a puddle, after the most moderate shower. We need scarcely refer our readers for an exactly suitable idea of the whole scene to the descrip- tion by the immortal Shakspeare, of the precipitous cliffs of Dover. On one of the extreme heights is a Signal Station, with a flag-staff, and two or three guns. Farther on, to the right, is the Light-house, on a projecting neck of land, of lower eleva- tion, but greater prominence, and therefore capable of being seen at a much greater distance by mariners, when coming within reach of the dangerous shore. It has been erected of late years -f-, though seemingly called for long before ; and has, • Strange as the discrepancy of situation may appear, the nearest approadi 'to the purity and freshness of the atmosphere on Beachy Head, in the soathem or midland part of the kingdom, appeared to us to be the summit of the Colos- seum in the Regent's Park. f In the Morning HtraU, Nov. 19, 1832, it is stated, that the erection of this Light House was principally brought about through the instrumentality of » John Fuller, Esq. of Rose Hill, Sussex, and formerly M. P. for that county. If so, this beneficial act should be reckoned amongst " Fuller'* Worthies.' r 2 212 COAST OF scesEX. doubtless, been instrumental in preventing much destruction of human life. Accurate charts of the coast have also been lately executed, to a much further distance out at sea than was formerly the case. OiFBeachy Head, on the 30th of June, 1690, the combined English and Dutch fleets were defeated by that of France : a not very usual tale to tell when speaking of English naval history; but circumstances will explain the disadvantageous position of the latter. The French fleet sailed from Brest at the end of May, in a very strong and well-arranged armament, consisting of seventy-eight men-of-war, several of which were of very large size, and twenty-two fire-ships ; and carrying, in the whole, upwards of 4700 pieces of cannon. The English government was, at that time, in a perplexed and embarrassed condition, owing to the opposition it experienced from the partizans of the exiled king, James II., both abroad and at home. The king, William III., was on the continent, and had left only 7000 land forces for the defence of the country ; the fleet also was lying inactively waiting for the junction of the Dutch, without any expectation of being so hastily required to prepare for action. Their strength when drawn out on receiving intelligence of the French expedition was only thirty-four sail, and when all the Dutch vessels were mustered, and had joined them, the latter amounted only to twenty-two ; the number also of the English and Dutch ordnance was not more than about 3400. Lord Torrington, the English admiral, was so convinced of the inequality of his force, that he was desirous of avoiding an engagement ; but the Queen, who was apprehensive of the effects of a French fleet hovering on the coast of a divided kingdom, and with the advice of the Privy Council, sent him orders to fight at all events. As soon as it was light on the morning of the 30th of June, the Admiral gave the signal for drawing into a line, and bore down upon the enemy, then under sail by a wind with their heads to the northward. The action began about nine, when the Dutch, who formed the van, attacked the van of the French, with considerable success; about half-an-hour afterwards, the KAVAL ENGAGEMENT, 1690. 213 English blue squadron engaged their rear (the French then lying by); but the red, which formed the centre, could not reach them till about ten, which caused a great opening between them and the Dutch, The French, perceiving this, weathered, and surrounded the latter, who, though defending themselves with great bravery, suffered much from the unequal contest* Lord Torrington perceiving their distress, drove, with his own ship and several others, between them and the French, and anchored when it grew calm, about five in the afternoon ; but finding they were too much impaired to renew the action, retired at night, eastward, with the tide of flood. In a council of war, held the next afternoon, the combined fleets determined to retire, and rather to destroy their disabled ships than attempt to protect them. Their retreat was very successful, owing to awkwardness on the part of the French admirals ; still they pursued them as far as Rye Bay, and having forced the Anne, an English 74, which had lost its masts, on shore at Winchel- sea, sent in two fire-ships to bum her, which the captain pre- vented by setting fire to her himself. The body of the French fleet stood in and out of the bays of Eastbourne and Pevensey, whilst fourteen of their ships anchored near the shore. They attempted to bum a Dutch 64, which lay dry at low-water ; but strange to say, and an instance of almost unexampled courage, the captain defended her so bravely, every high- water, that they were obliged to give up their attempts, and he carried her safe into Holland. The loss of the English, in this affair, was only two ships, two naval and two marine captains, and 350 men; but the Dutch lost three ships, sunk in the fight, and three stranded - Is not yon steed Orelia ? yes, 'tis mine! But never was she tum'd from battle-Iine : Lo ! where the recreant spurs o'er stock and itone ! Curses pursue the slave, and wrath divine ! Rivers engulph him !" — " Hush," in shuddering toae. The prelate said ; " Rash prince;, yon vision'd form 's thine own f* Scotfs Vision of Don Roderie. As a contrast to the picture, we 'heg leave to apply, mth a full and unflattering idea of their truth, the following lines * N.Bi — We have read Aladame Junot's Memoirs, confessedly a partial account; but giving them their full effect would have no objection for Napo- leon's conduct to be tried by that tesC 216 COAST OF SVSSKX. to the mild and patriot monarch who now holds the sceptre of Bntain : " Let other monarcfas Contend to be made glorious by proad war. And, with the bl< od of their poor subjects, porduse Increase of empire, and augment their cares In keeping that which was by wrongs extorted. Gilding unjust invasions with the trim Of glorious conquests ; we, that would be known The father of our people, in oar study And vigilance for their safety, must not change Their ploughshares into swords, and force than firom The secure shade of their own vines, to be Scorch'd with the flames of war; or, fbr oar qwtt. Expose their lives to ruin." Massinger. Nothing requiring pwirticular notice occurs before reaching Perensey: the land is flat, but rich, and not cheerless ia appearance. At Langley Point, a mile and a half from the Sea-houses, are two small forts, on the hne of towers which command great part of the bay towards Hastings, each carrying eight guns, and a third battery stands on a little eminence further inward, called Anthony-HilL We occa- sionally coast round the towers, and both here and on the oppoate side of Pevensey, the road sometimes descends to the beach, giving us a full view of the ocean close at our feet. By those who are accustomed to it, the return of this object is always hailed as that of a friend, bringing with it fresh breezes, with *' healing on their wings ;" distant and extended associations ; and a soothing calm which partakes of the vigour and liberty of immensity. What is grander, more noble, more anciently renowned, or more everlastingly fresh in its interest, than the sea ! The medium of history, of arts, of happiness, the source of all the most varied themes of tradition, of romance, and chivalry ; of poetical ajspirations, and of heartfelt affections ; ever recent, still venerable, and flourishing in immortal youth : the unfailing cause and sup- port of industry and domestic welfare ; the most liberal and BEXHILL. {217 universal dispenser of pleasure as well as health ; which receives all into its anus ungrudgingly, which " Sooths onpided care. And smooths the wrinkled forehead of despair." The village of West Ham nearly adjoins Pevensey, the outer gate of the castle opening into its precincts. On the left hand the church presents a large tower, less elevated, but having some of the characteristics of that at Eastbourne : its aisles are spacious and solid, and are said before the Reformation to have had three altars, and as many oratories. In the parish are remaining two very ancient houses, Glynleigh and Priest- hawes, the latter supposed to have been once a monastery. The extensive outer wall of Pevensey castle*, with its prt>- jecting towers, grey, and in some places mantled with ivy, flanks the road for a considerable distance ; one of the towers gives visible indications of Roman workmanship, or at least an imitation of it, the stones being laid in the cross or chevron style, vulgarly called " Herring-bone" masonry. The village is now inconsiderable, but has several ancient houses. The church is inadequate in its appearance to accompany the grand outlines of the castle. The eight miles from Pevensey to Bexhill are uninteresting, the views into the interior of the country limited. The first portion of Bexhill is built on each side of a long and steep hill : having ascended this, we view the spot on the right hand, where, in the late war, were very extensive barracks erected for Hanoverian troops, said to be capacious enough for the accommodation of 10,000 men. It must have been a very commanding and salubrious situation ; now laid out as a pleasure-ground or lawn, where the " Ger- man hagbert-men"" paraded, *' the Almayne's suHcn kettle- drum" was beat, and " the banners tall of crimson sheent,** were displayed in aid of a friendly and allied land. Farther • This castle will be described hereafter. f Lay of the Last Minstrel Alas! poor Walter Scott! Shall we look upon his like ever more ? — Will tlie trumpet of Romance be blown with such ringing clearness and silvery sweetness again ? 218 COAST OF SUSSEX. on is another part of the populous village of Bexhill, contain- ing upwards of two thousand inhabitants, and an old heavy church with a low tower, on the left hand, its chancel indicat- ing the thirteenth century. This place is occasionally used as a marine residence, the sea being only two miles distant ; and "we are informed in the Hastings Guide, that some years ago a circulating library and a small theatre were established ; also that the soil was supposed to cover strata of coals, but that this was disproved by some expensive trials. From hence to St. Leonard's is four miles and a half, passing Bulverhythe, another spot, besides Pevensey, which has been denoted as that of the Conqueror's landing, but with much less reason. There are the remains of a small chapel. The entrance of St. Leonard's astonishes and detains the eye of the stranger with the spectacle of a new creation, brought almost simul- taneously to perfection, and presenting long and splendid facades, excelling the architecture of Brighton, and nearly equalling the most splendid suburb of London, in the Regent's Park. The slender belfry of the new church has a tolerable apf>earance in perspective, aided by a commanding situation ; but when seen in front has a paltry and toy-like appearance. Passing through the very elliptical Doric arch at the east extremity, we enter upon the sheltered road, under bold difis gradually increasing in grandeur, which leads into the lower town of Hastings, and passing the Priory bridge and the Pelham sweep of architecture, arrive at the centre beyond the Parade, where the old and narrow streets rise to the extremity on the London road. HAST1K68. S19 HASTINGS. The old part of Hastings, but little altered in its pre- dominant features since it has become a place of resort, although individually the majority of the houses have been rebuilt, con- sists of two long streets, called High and All Saint'*s Street. Between the backs of the houses a small, unnoticed brook of clear water, which is an advantage to its vidnity, flows down to the sea. Beyond the opening which brings the town down to the sea, the line of coast immediately rises into lofty clifis ; so that between the castle-hill, at the entrance under which the Pelhani New Buildings and the Parade lie closely sheltered, the body of the town is completely in a hollow. The height of the two hills is not very dissimilar. The castle-hill takes ft sweep inward at the end of the Parade, forming the valley up which the old streets ascend. The sea-line lies under the hill in a singularly commanded style ; the houses seem almost built into the rock, in fact, in one place it has been cut away to receive them ; it frowns over them, at a great elevation, with either a despotic or protecting air, as the fancy of the spectator chooses to invest it. The ancient history of this town, as wdl as of several others which fall within our plan, would, if entered into with that fullness for which we could easily find materials, extend the volume to an inordinate extent, and impede its variety and discursiveness of character. The ground has also been amply explored by former travellers, and we do not undertake to conduct the reader through every historical path, plain or rugged, which has been patiently sought out by those who have made it the business of their lives. We shall marshal him at a lively and rapid course through the ** highways," with brief hints of the " byways," pausing and dilating only when wp find the bonne bouche of some very interesting retreat, or some noble prospect, which has generally escaped the notice and record of our predecessors. 2ii0 COAST OF SV88KX. ORIGIN. Hastings is supposed to have possessed a castle in the time of the Roman dominion, either erected by them or enlarged and improved from the foundation of one erected by the natives trf the island. A passage in Leland's Collectanea, taken from the chronicle of Dover Monastery, states in effect, that " when Ar\'iragus threw off the Roman yoke, it is likely that he fortified those places which were most convenient' for their invasion, viz. Richborough, Walmore, Dover, and HastiDgs." ETYMOLOGY. SAXON RULE. Its etymology is imagined to be derived from a Danish pirate named " HcEstinga^ who is said to have landed here and built a fortress, as he also did at several other places along the southern coast. In the year 792, 31 Offie, Bero- daldus gave to the Monastery of St. Dionysius, Rusticus, and Eleutherius, near Paris (St. Denis), amongst other places, Hastings and Pevensey, with their marshes. And, in 924, King Athelstan established a mint here, at the same time with one at Chichester and two at Lewes. BATTLE OF HASTINGS. We do not think it necessary or expedient, whilst reforing either to Hastings, Pevensey, or Battle, to dwell on the par- ticulars of the Norman invasion and conquest, as they are probably familiar to most of our readers, or, at all events, may be read in detail in a variety of histories of England, some of which must doubtless be within the reach of all. They will recollect, however, that though we are not per- petually alluding to it, there is a deep and strong though latent effect of interest on this subject which involves itself in every step we take in the history and topography of this portion of the southern coast of England. HASTIKG8. 2S1 DOOMSDAY. In the Doomsday Survey, it is supp>osed that Hastings is identified with a place, liberty, or district, then called Rti- mesUe, which belonged to the church of Fiscamp. The arable land was thirty-five carucates, and ninety-nine villeins held forty-three carucates. There were five churches, rendering sixty-four shillings, and 100 salt-pits, 8/. \5s. The whole had been worth 34/., but was then worth 50/. ; the lordship of the abbot and the men 44«*. CASTLE AND HONOUR, COLLEGIATE CHAFEL^ The whole Rape of Hastings belonged to the Earl of Eu "f . The seal of one of this family, a founder or benefactor of the Castle Chapel, is still in existence, bearing the figure of a knight on horseback at full speed, with a drawn sword, and the inscription, ** sigillum comitis augi."" A castle or fort was doubtless erected by the conqueror at Hastings almost immediately after the battle, as appears by an inscription on a part of the Baieux tapestry, ** isteJ jtrssix dt fode- RENTOR CASTELLUM AD HESTENG;"" but this IS SUppOSed DOt to be the principal castle which existed in considerable size from the erection of former centuries. The men of Hastings had, in the middle of the same century, proved themselves steady friends of the banished Earl Godwin ; but after the conquest they appear to have been peaceful and unenterprising. In the year 1090, almost all the nobles and bishops of England were assembled at the Castle of Hastings to do homage to William II., then about to sail for Normandy. The monarch was detained by contrary winds for a month, during which Father Anselm consecrated in the Free Royal Chapel of the castle, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, Robert Bloet to the Bishoprick of Lincoln. The * Moss's Hastings. f For an account of Eu, see Mrs. C Stothard's Tour in Normandy. \ Robert Elari Mortain, brother to WiUiam. '222 COAST OF SUSSEX. hisUMy of this chapel involves many disputes, as to jurisdic- tion, with the Bishops of Chichester and Archbishops of Canterbury, but we have not convenient space for entering into details. At the dissolution, the value of the deanery was 201. per annum, aud of seven prebends, 41/. 13*. 5d. It was granted to Sir Anthony Browne. It was both a college and a chapel, and a place of some imjxjrtance and interest. Its common seal (of ^2 Edw. III.) is still extant, bearing a female figure crowned, carrying a church in her hand, with a shrine or tabernacle in the back-ground, and an inscription in Gothic capitals, *' sigil' commune ecc'e s'te matkis d'hastingk*." 20,000 men were assembled at Hastings, in the year lOQ^-, by order of William Rufus, on the pretext of shipping them for Normandy ; they were, however, speedily disbanded, and the money allowed by the county for each man, viz. 10*., taken from them by the king's agent, and sent to his master, which is, perhaps, one of the most paltry artifices that history has ever recorded. About the year 1378 or 1380, for the date is disputed, and there are conflicting histories into which we cannot enter, Hastings was burnt by the French, having been previously deserted by almost all its inhabitants. This commences a third epoch in the history of the town, the Jirst and original Saxon town having been destroyed by the ravages of the sea before the period of the conquest Whether this or the second town was the one first enfranchised and incorporated with the Cinque Ports, Mr. Jeake, their able historian, professes him- self unable to determine. The castle has not attained any notoriety in the militaiy history of England. It was held, by various persons, of the crown, together with the Honour of Hastings, amongst whom was John of Gaunt. The reversion was conveyed by Sir John Pelham to Sir Thomas Hoo, of Bedfordshire, who in the reign of Henry VI. was, for some faithful military serviceSi created Lord Hastings, but the title became extinct at his HASTINGS. 223 death. William de Hasting, of an ancient family in the town, one of whose ancestors at the time of tlie Norman survey held the manor of Grenock, by the service of finding an oar at Hastings when the king should cross the sea, was possessed of the Honour of Hastings in the time of Richard III., but beheaded by that king's orders for alleged treason. His pos- sessions were restored by Henry VII. to his son, and by one of his descendants sold to Thomas Pelham, Esq., of Laughton, ancestor of the Earls of Chichester, in whose family the Honour of Hastings is vested at the present day. PRIORY. A priory, dedicated to the Holy Trinity of Black Canons of the order of St. Austin, was founded at Hastings, in the reign of Richard I., by Walter Bricet. At the commencement of the reign of Henry IV. it was devastated by an inundation of the sea, and the canons removed it to Warbleton, on a spot given them by Sir John Pelham. An ichnography of the convent, as existing before its removal, is contained in the Burrell MSS. The annual value at the dissolution was iSOl. 2s. O^d. It was given by Henry to his attorney-gene- ral, Sir John Baker. CORPORATION-REPRESENTATIVES. The magistrates of Hastings were termed bailiff's, from the earliest records to the year 1588, when they were incorporated by the title of a mayor and twelve jurats, with a chamberlain, common clerk, and serjeant. It has always returned two members to parliament as one of the Cinque Parts. MODERN ACCOUNTS. Our collection of newspaper extracts has no articles of interest relating to Hastings. We extract the following account of the jubilee in 1809, from Mr. Moss's valuable work: we have previously alluded to its insertion when treating of Brighton. 224 COAST or stssEx. " The Jawning of the finest day that ever appeared in October, WM ushered in by ringing of bells, firing of cannon, and music playing. A great many houses were decorated with flags and proper mottos for the day. Large branches of oak, boughs of laurel, and evergreens of all sorts, ornamented the fronts of several houses; others had devices suited to the occasion. Flags were hoisted upon the church-steeples. At the Custom- house was a crown in glory, surrounded by a grove of laurel, surmounted by a large St. George's Ensign, and under the crown this inscription— ' God Bless the King! Preserre him long to reign, and grant him after death, a Crown o^ Glory.' " The service at church was properly attended, and an excellent sermon preached by the Rev. Webster Whistler, Rector. The Royal East Middlesex militia attended at All Saint's Church. Afto' service they pro* ceeded to East-Hill, where, extending their files along the irr^;ular summit, for about a quarter of a mile, they fired a /ea dejoie, whilst the band, at intervals, played " God save the King." About the same time the sea-fen cibles fired a royal salute from the battery, and the martello towers continued a distant thunder from a Une of twenty miles in Pevensey Bay. The appearance of the military, with the echo of the cannon across the valley, had a grand and pleasing efiect Having repeated three loud huzzas, which were answered by the spectators on the Castle-hills, the regiment paraded the streets, with the band playing, colours flying, people huzzaing, &c. Colonel ^Vood then marched them to the barracks, where upwards of one thousand, men and officers, sat down to dinner in the barrack-yard, on roast beef and plum-pudding. In the meantime;, the mayor, J. G. Shorter, Esq. (who had exerted himself with great loyalty and spirit in making arrangements for the day), and the principal in- habitants, assembled at dinner in the Town-hall, and spent the afternoon with the greatest joy and festivity. There was a bonfire on the hill, cora^ posed of ten waggon-loads of faggots and combustibles, and a tar-barrd, on a mast sixty feet high. Fifty rockets were discharged, and many fire- works exliibited. A ball at the Swan inn was attended by about 250 persons, and in the room was a transparency of • Neptune yielding the ernpire of the seas to Britannia, in the reign of George the Third.' The poor in the different workhouses feasted on roast beef, phim-pudding, and strong beer. Every one had a holiday, the men and women a shilling 8-piece to spend, and the children six-pence. A subscription was raised, amounting to 400/1 1*. €d., from which 1850 persons were supplied with 2880lbs. of beef, 1850 sixpenny loaves, 2880 pinte of porter, 2872 gallons of potatoes, and a balance of 188/. left to be distributed amongst thirty of the seamen of Hastings, prisoners of war in Frsnoe." The sum of £360 was raised by subscription at Hastings and distributed to the poor on the occasion of the passing of the Reform Bill HASTINGS. 225 REMAINS OF THE CASTLE. These are so extremely inconsiderable and indistinct, that but for their magnificent situation and its prospects, they would be hardly worth a walk to the summit of the hill. Access is obtained by a winding road and subsequently a path at the back of Wellington-square, and also by ascending the hills at the western side of the town. At the entrance is an iron gate and a lodge, with a board, informing the visitor that he must pay three-pence for a single visit, or sixpence per week, with an ascending scale. Now it is highly probable that the proceeds may be devoted to some charitable or useful purpose, for it would scarcely be charged for the repairs of the place ; still there is, at the first blush, a strangeness in the idea of paying for the admittance to an Earl, which cannot be got over. The interior is so completely an indistinct outline, that very little can be made out of the ancient form : there appear to have been one or two sally-ports, and the walls are upwards of six feet thick. A neat gothic arch, supf)osed to have belonged to the chapel, with handsome corbels, has been lately restored. The present space enclosed was doubtless not the whole of the ancient work, as it does not appear to exceed an acre of ground. It is neatly laid out, with a grass plat and some flower-beds, and steps have been constructed on the walls with so much care, that the most delicate lady need not fear to traverse them with her slender feet. The view is beautiful at any hour of the day, and we should imagine it must be equally so on a clear night, when " the floor of heaven is thick inlaid with patines of bright gold," or the moon, " Sweet regent of the sky. Silvers the walls," And " Nightly to the listening eardi Repeats the story of her birth," the spectator may dwell with admiration and soothing plea^ sure, like the ** Tuscan Artist," " At evening from the top of Feaol^ Or in Val d'Amo, to descry new bokb." £26 COAST OF SOSSKX. DESCRIPTION. CLIMATE, SEA-BATHING, &e. We can add little on this subject to what we have before observed at Brighton, and must, as there, refer the reader to comf)etent authorities, only stating that the temperature of Hastings is much milder than at the former, consequently better suited to that class of individuals who do not wish for a keen atmosphere, which, at the same time, is of course more desirable for other constitutions. The air of Hastings is con- sidered peculiarly advantageous in pulmonary complaints and incipient consumption. The scenery and objects around Hastings are amongst the most beautiful in England. The commanding hills and cliiTs which encompass the town, afford the alternative of an in- vigorating air on their summits, or a very sheltered one beneath their protecting sides. The formation of hills was thought by the judicious naturalist Ray, to be one of the most striking proofs of the goodness of God in creation ; and they soothed and encouraged the mind of the pensive monarch of Palestine. — " Levabo oculos meos ad collet, nam ex illis venit auxillum meutn." BUILDINGS. The Parade is a very confined one, though neatly kept, and extremely lively and busily attended; the ship and boat building in the vicinity, accompanied by the multitude of large and handsome pleasure-boats, with occasional small traders, gives it a very cheerful appearance. The length of the espla- nade does not much exceed five hundred feet; consequoitly our fair or curious readers must walk along it and back ^ve times, to achieve the distance of a mile. THE TOWN HALL is in High-street, to which we can give no praise, though a modern erection, in 1823, to supersede one erected by the liberality of John Pulteney and Peter Gott, members ia HASTINGS. 927 Parliament for Hastings, in the year 1700. It is a mean edifice, of inconsiderable size, standing on 6ve low and plain arches. It has, however, a clock, which neither of the churches can boast, with a decent cupola, but so placed as not to be seen. The interior is said to contain a trophied shield, taken from the gates of Quebec in 1759, and given to the town by General Murray, one of the captors, and an inhabitant. The exterior of this building is totally destitute of ornament, with the exception of a wonderful one on the top, viz. a large round stone, brought from Pevensey Castle, which is sup- posed, from the accident of its shape, to have had the good fortune to be thrown out of a Roman catapult, (the Romans being accustomed to besiege castles in Britain,) on which it has had the further ** greatness thrust upon it," of being hoisted up to the top of the Town Hall in Hastings, as a most happy municipal ornament. " Reasons'" for this are, probably, "as plenty as blackberries," but ** not upon compulsion.*' No. And so we must quote honest Mr. Burchell — ^*' Fudge If" FORT AND PIER. At the east end of the Parade^ is a small but strong fort, or battery, raised to a good elevation above the sea, and well faced with masonry, forming also an able barrier against the encroachments of the waves: in the time of the late war it mounted eleven 12-pounders- A storm visited Hastings in January, 1792, very similar in its effects to the memorable one at Brighton in the year 1824. Hastings had also a pier, which was destroyed by a storm in the reign of Elizabeth : it stood opposite the present fort. The queen granted a contribution towards making a new harbour, but the money, as Camden informs us, was embez- zled, and the design frustrated : it was again mooted in the year 1826, but with similar iU success. Piles, and other remains of the pier, may be seen at low water, several of which, concealed for centuries, were exposed by a very high tide, which washed up the beach, in the year 1821. The remains of the pier are called ** The Stade," and 228 COAST OF SUSSEX. vessels are wound up and let down the accli>'ity by a strong capstan, worked by three or four horses, which is said to be an interesting sight. The shore at Hastings is remarkably bold, with a high bank of gravel : the depth close to the edge at high-water, is nearly twenty feet ; on this account, the boatmen are cautious of landing at that precise time. PELHAM PLACE AND ARCADE. The " New Town" of Hastings is built under the Castle- hill, which having become loose and dangerous in front, was cut in for a depth of 70 or 80 feet, where it forms a wall of the strongest solidity. The plan is a terrace or basement occupied by rooms, and a crescent receding, to which the summit of the terrace forms a promenade. The Crescent is handsomely built, and has a chapel, with a portico in the centre. In front of the basement are small shops, from which passages lead to the arcade, which occupies the bulk of the erection below the Crescent. This is a fine room, lighted in the ceiling, 180 feet long, and occupied by twenty-eight shops, in the style of a bazaar, the centre also forming a musical promenade in the evening; in another part of the basement is a coffee-room. The terrace is ascended by a handsome flight of steps. Pelham place, which was built prior to the rest, forms an eastern wing, commencing at the end of the Parade ; in this part of the building are the baths of every descrip- tion, which are both splendid and comfortable : the entrance is handsome, and two waiting-rooms, of an octagonal form, are painted in fresco, with Chinese scenery : there are also baths on the Parade. Some chalybeate springs are said to exist near the town, which have not yet been fully investigated. CHURCHES. Hastings now contains two parish churches and a precinct chapel. All Saint's stands on high ground, to the right of the entrance from London, and its large high tower, aided by situation, has rather an imposing appearance. The exte- riors of this church and St. Clement's have been grievously HASTINGS. 229 mutilated, the tracery of all the windows, with one or two exceptions only, destroyed, and supplied by wooden frames; and the whole buildings are in a ragged and defaced state ; tiie original proportions, however, being extensive and bold, could not entirely be obscured. The architecture of All Saint's is rather puzzling, the general features appearing to be those of the fifteenth century, of which the flat, though abruptly pointing arches, are evidently examples, whilst some of the windows of the tower rather assimilate to the thirteenth. It is probable, that whilst both churches were rebuilt, about the year 1400, some remains of the older ones were incorporated or transferred. The arch, at the entrance of the tower, is lofty, enclosing both a door and window ; over the former are remnants of tracery ; the roof of the lower story is vaulted with stone, and has a circle with rude coloured figures of animals, &c. in the centre ; a majestic arch opens into the church, resting on corbels, which spring from octagonal piers. The interiors of both churches must be confessed and regret- ted, to be not altogether so neat as they ought to be, and neither of them is yet possessed of an organ. The altar- piece, however, is neat, of the Ionic order, with painted tab- lets, and some gilding, blue drapery with a glory, I.H.S., &c. above : on the south side of the chancel are three stone stalls. Some curious old painting is to be seen on some of the pews. The pulpit cloth is part of the canopy borne over Queen Anne by the Barons of the Cinque Ports, and in surprising preservation ; it is a fine and strong cloth, of a rich scarlet colour, fringed, braided, and lettered with yellow silk, which might be mistaken for gold. On the south side of the church is a small porch, containing a benitiery and entered by an arch said to be Norman^ but with very little reason. It is undeniably round, like the Roman cat''s ball on the Town Hall, but the recent appearance, mouldings, and >vorkman- ship are surely indicative of no higher antiquity than the fifteenth or sixteenth century, in spite of the caprice of form. The tower is seventy-three feet high, and contains five bells, but one of them is cracked : it displays a monument 230 COAST OF SUSSEX. for Mademoiselle Victoire (Victorine or Victoria) Ruffo, eldest daughter of the Prince de Castelcicala, a Sicilian ambassador, who died in 1816, aged thirty-six. " She lived like an angel, and is now, her parents humbly hope, in Heaven." In the churchyard, which has been liberally enlarged, are several interesting inscriptions. St, Clement's, which stands in a confined situation, in the midst of the town, but has a new burying-ground near the castle, is a lower and longer building than the other, with the tower, which is of equal massiveness, but much less elevation, at the east end of the south aisle. The architecture is of the usual style in the fourteenth century ; on each side of the nave are six flat arches, with clustered columns. The pulpit cloth here, which was the canopy held over George I., is said, in the Gentleman's Magazine, to have been of superior mate- rials, viz., flowered silver tissue, with gold fringe at bottom, and silver fringe at the top : but this has disapj)eared, we know not how or why, and its place been supplied by a plain red cloth, with gold fringe. The chancel of this church is hand- somely decorated, for which the town is indebted to the piety and munificence of Archibald Hutcheson, Esq., one of the barons in the reign of Queen Anne, who railed it in, and wainscotted it with oak, paved it with marble, and painted the altar and ceiling, all which then cost only £\25. The two latter were the work of Roger Mortimer, uncle to the eminent painter of Eastbourne. The altar is of the usual appearance, with two fine and bold figures of Moses and Aaron : the ceiling is painted with much strength and elegance; it represents the Celestial Empyrean, with a variety of beautiful figures, almost all of which are female. Mr. Hutcheson also gave 300/L to increase the vessels of the corporation, for the benefit of the poor; and 125/. to form a perpetual fund, to be lent to poor fishermen. He was an able financial writer, and contributed to undeceive persons and save them from the celebrated South Sea bubble. The tower contains six large old bells, the tenor weighing twenty-two cwt., but one of these also is broken. We shall HASTINGS. 231 probably be ridiculed for minuteness, but we confess to being lovers of campanology, and do not like to see fractured bellff, unrepaired, in the steeples of opulent towns. These two livings having been found incapable of maintaining separate clergymen, were consolidated sometime ago : service is per- formed three times a day between the two. St. Mary's, in the castle, an ancient precinct, has now a chapel in the centre of Pelham Crescent, with a receding por- tico, having a double row of Ionic pillars, which produces a handsome effect ; but a lofty cupola, which formed part of the plan, was never erected, and the end was slightly raised, to contain a bell. On the tympanum is a clock, and under it, inlaid in brass letters, '* £DEs sanct^ marlc in castello, ExsTKCCTA A.M. MDCCCxxviu." The interior is striking and elegant, and slightly reminded us both of the theatre at Oxford, and the sessions-house at Chester. It is entered by two doors, on each side of the altar, opposite to which is an elliptical sweep of gallery, with ten columns of a fandful Corinthian order, and a handsome organ. This erection belongs to the Earl of Chichester. MARKETS, FISHERIES, AND TRADE. The former are held under the Town Hall, on Wednesdays and Saturdays. The trade of Hastings is now inconsiderable, but was formerly of more consequence, when its vessels sailed to the Straits. For the following particulars we are indebted to the elaborate volume of Mr. Moss. Much timber, plank, iron, and grain, is brought here, to be carried coastwise ; but the iron, which was principally cannon from the founderies at Ashburnham and Rothersbridge, has materially failed from the want of wood, which has been reserved for the hop-planta- tions. A lime company established here, employs some sloops in bringing lime from the neighbourhood of Beachy-head, and the average annual produce of their kilns is 120,000 bushels. The principal articles imported are coals and timber: the amount of the fi)rmer, entered at the custom-house in 1823, was 8508 chfddrons, which is double the quanUty of ]802. 232 COAST OF SOSSKX. Tlie oak plank and timber shipped in the same year was 420 loads, which was much less than most of the preceding years, some of which exceeded 1000; in 1811 it was 15,522, an extraordinary excess, which is not accounted for*. The Fisheries employ about sixty boats, and five hundred men, women, and children : the greater part caught is sent to London, after the town is supplied ; but much of the analler sized is dried by the poor for their winter food. The fish pre- dominant on this part of the coast are herrings, mackerel, soles, whitings, haddocks, skates, flounders, turbots, brills, plaice, scallops, crabs, prawns, and shrimps, which is a tolerable ex- tensive list, and, of course, from the contiguity, does not vary much from that at Brighton. " In what is called the Trauling Season, which commences the middle of July, and coDtiaues to the end of September ; and from the end of the ensuing November to the banning of April, are caught torfaot, farilk, plaice, soles, gurnet, dabs, scallops, crabs, &c Some few boats are en>- ployed in trauling the whole year round. " Near the beginning of April, about thirty of the largest boats com- mence what is termed the Mackerel Season ; at which time, four men and one boy, or five men, are employed in each boat, until the middle of July; each of the boats carries, on this occasion, nets called drore-nets. About one hundred of these are apportioned to a boat ; the nets, each being forty yards long and six yards deep, being put into the sea (called shooting the nets) about sun-sec, and are drawn out again about sun-rise (whidi thej term wurk the nets). The boats are out one night, and return in the morning with their sdvver or cargo. The reason of shooting the nets of a night is, because the mackerel will not come near them in the day time. This season is considered the most profitable of any, as the fish are gmerallj plentiful. Two hundred and a half, at six score and twelve to the hundred, is considered a good siwer for one night, at the beginning of the season, and the fish sell at from 4/. to 5/ per hundred ; and about eight hundred constitute a good sivrer at the latter part of the season j at which time they sell at about twelve shilhngs per hundred. " About 200/. is considered a good season for one boat to earn; this sum, however, though considerable, is but trifling when divided between boat, men, and nets. Thus, when the length of the season is taken into consideration, it will appear that these men (many of them with laige families, and who are out nearly every night) only receive about 21a. per week, and many do not take so large a sum. " The Herring Season commences the latter end of September, and eoD- * Elsewhere we find it stated, that 1500 barrels of berriogs are anniudly dried and cured at Hastiii;^ and sent to different markets. — The population of Hastings in the year 1831 was 8097. HASriKGS. 23S dnues until the latter end of November ; at which time twenty boats, upon an average, are fitted out with about forty nets each (each net being thirty, yards long and seven yards deep), carrying four men and one boy, or 6ve men. This season is not very profitable, having, of late years, much failed occasioned by the ravages of a species of dog-fish. " About the latter end of May the boats catch mackerel by railing (namely, while under sail), fishing with a line, forty or fifty yards long, with a weight attached to the bottom of it, in the shape of a sugar-loidr, weighing from ten to fourteen pounds, baited with a piece of mackerel cut into thin slips, to represent small fish; at which the mackerel bite very eagerly at this time of the season. They are met with within a yery short distance from the shore, a circumstance that induces numbers of the Tisiton to Hastings to engage in parties for this delightful sport, which can be enjoyed at a very trifiing expense, as the boatmen will provide lines and every thing that is needfuL " One method of selling the fish is by a sort of auction, called here, ' Dutch Auctions.' They are shot out on the beach, when the seller b^ins with his own price, and falls, tmtil some one cries out — ' I will have it.' * — Mots. The scene on the beach is often lively and interesting, and will greatly amuse those who take pleasure in seeing honest industry and its reward. The variety of pretty coloured shells here is very great ; and they are tastefully arranged. We would recommend all who can afford it to gratify both their famUies and the vendors by small purchases. BOAT BUILDING is the great trade, and the most skilful production of Has- tings, in which it excels the whole line of coast; and, in fact, all the pleasure boats in Sussex, and perhaps other counties, are either built here, or by workmen from the place. Larger vessels also, to the extent of two hundred tons or upwards, generally cutter-rigged, are frequently launched ; and some will probably be seen in progress at every visit of the stranger. The pleasure boats here, at the fountain head, will of course l)e found very superior, and the men are celebrated for skill, caution, and civility ; also for moderate charges. Mr. Thomas Hood, the celebrated (though not always unexceptionable) punster, has written a very lively address to one of them, em- bodying many allusions to Hastings, which appeared in an 234 COAST OF SUSSEX. Annual some years back. We had not time and opportunity to find out " Tom Woodgate,*^ but we met with a brother boatman, who strongly impressed us in favour of his class, and who might be a fit representative. PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. The libraries are, Diplock's and another, on the Parade; Janes' and RyalTs, in Pelham-place ; and one in Wellington- place ; at each of which the usual facilities and privileges are obtained. The billiard-rooms are in Castle-street, on the Parade, at the library, and in the centre of the town. In the Pelham Arcade is an evening musical promenade, to which persons are admitted by a moderate subscription by the year or month, or by paying a shilling each time. Loo is occa- sionally introduced ; but the former mode of remuneration seems preferable, and worthy of imitation in Brighton, as it is a small clear gain to the proprietors. It has also another ad- vantage : no liberal and reflective person would willingly partake habitually of the science and expense of others, ex- erted for his pleasure, without giving some compensation ; and if there are any of a different spirit, their meanness is justly frustrated. There is both vocal and instrumental music here, with occasional variations of the performers, both male and female, and it is a place of fashionable and popular rendezvous. The theatre, lately erected in Bourne-street, on the right of High-street, with a solid stone front, is a small but lofty building, with two rows of boxes all round, and a gallery. Tlie interior cannot be said to be by any means tastefully fitted up, but has frequently good performers and attendance. The fair and delicate M iss M. Glover was the star when we visited Hastings. The assembly room is at the Swan Inn, where occasional or fixed balls take place in the winter. Races occur in September, on a spot about a mile west of St. Leonard's, thus belonging to both places. Regattas, both of fishing and pleasure boats, are got up in the autumn, with music, kc , principally for the benefit of the fishermen. Hare- hunting and/nsh water fishing, a rather unusual circumstance HASTlMCg. 235 on the coast, may be obtained at Hastings. Hastings has three fairs, but the only well attended one is on the 26th and 27th of July. Bathing machines are of the usual stamp; but some of the boats here are fitted out for this purpose with steps let down from the stern. There are a suflRcient number of hackney-coaches, flys, horses, donkeys, &c., on hire at Hastings at moderate terras; some of the flys, particularly those drawn by ponies, appear rather superior to the gene- rality in other places. MISCELLANEOUS. The principal inns are, the Albion, on the Parade ; and the IVIarine Hotel, in Pelham-place ; the Castle, a very comfort- able one : there are also the Swan, the Crown, and many other respectable ones. The Post Office is in High-street, as is also the Bank. There are three respectable dissenting places of worship in Hastings, one of which has an organ. There are also various institutions — a literary and scienufic one, open to strangers under certain conditions; benevolent ones also ; and we have some reason to think the poor of the town are not neglectfully regarded. A singular instance of unostentatious benevolence occurs here, in the case of a person who conveyed to the corporation about fifty-six acres of land, now worth IGOI. per annum, for the general relief of the poor, — and concealed his name ! SCENERY IN IMMEDIATE NEIGHBOURHOOD, CLIFFS, &c. The East Hill is a fine and salubrious elevation, command- ing an extensive and interesting view : it is reached without difficulty by a path with many windings and occasional steps. Near this are some traces of an ancient camp. The cliffs beneath, which commence soon after the fish-market, continue in a very lofty and bold unequal chain. Several inaccessible cavities appear near the summit, whilst paths conduct, at different elevations, nearer the shore. Ranged along one or two of these the stranger meets with a sight rather startling to him, and by no means in keeping with the grander associations. 236 COAST OF Sussex. viz., a great number of the small domiciles of the pig class ! There are situations, however, when even a pig-stye may be picturesque; they certainly remind us here a little of some of the arrangements of Robinson Crusoe, the side-walls and roof of their apartment, which ser^'es individuals or families for " parlour and kitchen and all,**' being frequently a natural cavity of the rock, with an artificial fence to the play-ground in front; the situation is very sheltered, and the denizens seem perfectly contented, and are by no means shy of the passing traveller, whom they hail with zealous, though rather monotonous, strains of untaught melody. The particular reasons for the establishment of the porcine colony here we did not learn. The cliflP is very noble in parts for about a mile from the town, where there is a little break or inlet ; and this is a very desirable walk : if the pedestrian should return about sunset, he will be delighted by its beautiful effect on the romantic town. The various beautiful walks or rides within three or four miles from Hastings give it a suf)eriority over most places along the coast ; in this respect it has an immeasurable ad- vantage over Brighton, whilst as a town it is nearly as in- ferior. We shall not dilate on these, because we have no intention of superseding the small local guides. They com- prise every desirable variety, lofty hills, splendidly wooded vales and secluded glens, brooks and fountains, a ** lover's seat,"" with a romantic tale that may recal the " Pirate"" of the lamented novelist, though this has a happier termination ; small villages, fruit-gardens, &c. &c. ; in short, either to the lovers of the grand or the soft in nature, there is little left to desire. ST. LEOKABDS. ftSI ST. LEONABD'S is one mile and a half due west of Hastings. Ad omnibus plies between them several times in the day, without, we rejoice to say, any oppression of the horses, so much to be regretted in Liondon *. It is also, when the tide is favourable, a pleasant boating excursion. The road passes by Wellington-square, a desirable part of the former, and over the small Priory bridge, when it approaches the sea, and soon reaches the White Rock, a small eminence, where was formerly a battery of three large guns, taken out of the San Josef, a powerful Spanish ship of 112 guns, captured by the gallant Nelson in 1794*. After passing this commences a range of unfinished buildings, which exhibits a tendency to connect SL Leonard's with Hastings; in fact, this would be a desirable consum- mation. At present they have separate interests; and while that state continues, there must, in the coarse of things, be jealousies and oppositions between themf; whereas, if SL Leonard's be made to form a " new town" to Hastings, the mutual interests of both will be strengthened, whilst the feeling above mentioned, which is always to be deprecated, will be abolished. The mother and daughter will then play into each other's hands without the matronly and girlish enmity of Honoria and Flavia, in the Spectator J. Viators will then select which part of the united town they prefer, whilst the public advantages and institutions of both are op&i to their resort. If such a junction does not take place, it seems highly probable that one or the other will suffer from mutual opposition. *' Vaulting ambition'' in one or both of the rivals • Wliat could diose official persoRs, whose care sodi thii^ shoald be, he thinking of, when tbejr licensed these ponderous machines, carrying eighteea persons, to run with ttro horses? which seem to be never inspected. If thej occasionally walked the streets, and witnessed the nuserable and pitiable maiK ner in which good horses are necessarily ruined by these unjust taska, thqr would, perhaps, revise the enactment. f In fact there is no more incompatibility than between Kemp Town or B^uns^%'ick-square and the old town of Brighton. I For an illustration of this, aee Jto-cclTs JoJuuom, article PfymotOk Dodu ^ S38 COAST OF SUSSEX. will ** overreach itself and fall on t'other side." These hints are thrown out without the slightest shadow of an interested motive; let the high contending parties look to it, and be timely wise. CONQUEROR'S TABLE. A piece of rock in this vicinity has been reported to have formed the table on which William the Norman dined after his landing : the only drawback to this romantic association is that it is not true, as it is certain he landed much nearer Pevensey. It is, however, " so like truth, 'twill serve the turn as well ;" or as Horace phrased it long before, '* Ficta voluptatis causa sint proxinu veria." SITUATION, See. St. Leonard's being more open to the bay of Pevensey and Beachy Head, possesses a keener atmosphere than Hastings, between which place and Brighton it is considered to form a medium, and is therefore suited in summer to those for whom the air of the very sheltered town of Hastings would be too mild and relaxing. It follows, as a matter of course, that it will not be so desirable for tbem in winter. ENTRANCE, OR EAST LODGE, is a good Doric elevation, with fluted columns, in the style of an ancient triumphal arch : It is of almost the greatest possible ellipsis, but has a bold and solid effect which is not unpleadng. " MARINA," the appellation given to the whole sea line of buildings, is a conceited Italian term, which we cannot abide ; but this must not blind us to the merits of the case. The architecture of the various piles is very fine indeed, variously decorated with Corinthian and Ionic columns, and with long and low piazzas in front of the basements, with occasional breaks also forming squares ; and another street of handsome architecture at the back. The style is different from either Kemp Town or ST. LEONARDOS. 239' Brunswick Terrace at Brighton, and comparisons are odious; but for its especial purpose, nothing could have been conceived better. THE ESPLANADE is, we suppose, one of the finest in Europe. Its close con- tiguity to the sea renders it superior to the western one at Brighton, to which its length, however, as a whole, is not equal. It is well faced with stone, and not only varied with a grass-plat, but also with flower-beds, a most happy addition. It reminds us more of the Esplanade at Weymouth than any others which we have seen. Bathing-machines and pleasure- boats are in attendance, in sufficient numbers; and a sub- scription band plays on the terrace in summer. The inns, baths, &c. &c. are, we understand, executed with every modem refinement of splendour and comfort. Here, as at Hastings, there is a sufficient number of respectable medical gentle- men ; also of artists and instructors. Amusements are not yet separately established to any extent in the new town ; the visitors who wish to engage in them resorting to Hastings. The Assembly-rooms, however, in which frequent balls are held, compose a grand and elegant structure of the Doric order, consisting of a centre and two wings of considerable length, with a fluted portico at the entrance, and a pediment at the other extremity. One wing is used as a Billiard, and the other as a Card-room. The portico will challenge the applause of all spectators of taste ; it is light and lofty for its order. The ball-room is spacious and very handsome, with a receding gallery for music over the vestibule, a coved ceiling with medallions and a fresco border, and neat glass chandeliers. Divine service was performed here before the church was completed. A neat Library is kept by Mr. Southall on the Esplanade, and another by Miss Powell, outside the East gate. The resident inhabitants, a short time back, did not much exceed a thousand ; but no doubt this number will be consi- derably increased. ^0 COAST OF SUSSEX. THE CHURCH, of which the first stone was laid by the Princess Sophia, io October, 1831, is now approaching completion. It is to be regretted that the style and proportions were not on a grander and more ornamental scale ; it cannot be fairly said to be worthy of St. Leonard's. It is of the thirteenth century, neat in detail, but petty ; on the sides are large lancet win- dows, not in the best style; the interior will contain 800 per- sons without side galleries, for which the breadth would scarcely suffice : at the east end is a handsome and lofty arch, opening into a small chancel recess, and at the opposite end a lesser one opening into the steeple, which will contain a small organ. The upper parts of all the windows will be filled with stained glass. There is also, we believe, a national schooL THE SUBSCRIPTION GARDENS occupy a small sheltered and gradually rising valley, between two hills at the back of St. Leonard's ; on its sides are several villas, as in the Park at Brighton, principally Gothic, and handsome in effect, but scarcely desirable h&rCf as they encroach on the limits of the gardens. The space is small, but appears much larger from the inequality of ground, and the various trees and shrubs. In different parts are hermitages, arbours, a fountain, and a f>ond for aquatic birds which is also used for skating in the winter. The concern is in its infancy, and we believe an aviary has been commenced, which will ornament the shrubbery with beautiful plumage, and lively notes, and probably music will in time be added. One of the Gothic houses on the east side, let as a boarding- house, has a small steeple and clock, which is kept up for the public benefit. The north lodge, above the gardens, which opens on the road to Battle, is a neat specimen of a small gatehouse of the 15th century. The environs of St Leonard's are of course the same as those of Hastings. HASTINGS TO HURSTMONCEUX AND PEVENSEY. UIUBB HILIS BCIirERBTTBE ... 4 HVBSTMONCEITX . . I| NINFIEU) 5j WABTUNO .... 2 BOBEBAM 3 PETENSEir .... 4 «0* Pass through St. Leonard''s, and by Bulverhythe Sluice^ formerly a harbour, but now completely choaked up. An in- significant river or brook here runs up into the country, on the banks of which are levels abounding with snipes, wild fowls, and plovers. The name of this place is Saxon. A ridiculous allusion to the old Phoenician tale of a buWs hide has been toid of it, but without any foundation. Off Bulverhythe, the Am- sterdam, a large Dutch ship, heavily laden with costly articles, was stranded, and sunk irretrievably into the sands, in the year 1743 : the crew, we believe, were saved. After the sands have been washed up by a violent sea, the ribs are occasionally vi- sible at low water. Attempts were made by adventurers, in 1827, to explore the lower part, and recover some of the cargo, when they obtained several pieces of the manufacture of Ghent, Bruges, and Antwerp, comprising China-gilt jars, in good pre- servation ; goblets, wine glasses, and bottles, figured with gold; knives, with broad blades and carved handles, &c. &c which were sold to the curious at very advantageous prices^-. We are here again reminded of our interesting old friend Robinson Crusoe, and should have much liked to have shared the ex- citing investigation. Soon after leaving Bulverhythe, the road turns off to the rightof BexhillJ. • Tbe direct road from Hastings, by which the yiaitot nsay retain, is only fourteen miles. f Jones's Hastings Guide. ^ Bexhill was a &vourite residence of St. Richard, the canonized Bishop of Chichester, who died there. S4i{ COAST OF SUSSEX. We passed through Sedley Green and Ninfield, the latter a small respectable village, noted for some ladies' schools, with a little gray church, of one aisle, and a wooden steeple- Here the view opens finely towards Beachey Head. We avtMded the angle formed by Boreham, a hamlet of the parish of Wartling, seeing to the right, at Windmill Hill, another hamlet, a handsome and loftily situated house, belonging to E. J. Curteis, £sq. ; and soon after entered the old and wild-looking domain, once a park, of Hurstmonceus *, and perceived the grand old quadrangle, with its various angular breaks of tower, turret, and oriel stretched nobly beneath us, within the outline of its spacious moat, and contrasted by a variety of trees of vene- rable and decayed appearance, dispersed singly or in groups, along the edges of the surrounding eminences. Hurstmonceaux Castle was built in the reign of Henry VI, and is one of the oldest brick mansions in England. " From the reign of Ridiard II., when de la Pole's house was boDt with brick at Kingston-npon-HulI, to that of Hen. VI., I meet with no evidence of brick being employed as a material in building, but in the first year of Henry VI. a licence was granted to Roger Fiens, Knt., &c &c. &c " This noWe house, which is wholly built of brick, in the castle style, is still standing complete, and is, perhaps, the largest house, belonging to a subject, in tlie kingdom : no doubt it was built, not merely embattled, at the time the licence was obtained, the whole being built upon one plan. It is worthy of remark, that the art of making brick was then carried to such perfection, though it shoidd seem to be but in its infancy, that this vast structure has stood the brunt of weather for above three centuries, particularly of the salt corroding vapours arising from the sea, to which it is gready exposed, without suffering the least injury in any part of the walls, insomuch that hardly a single brick shews the least mark of decay. — Bp. Littleton — Antiquity of Brick Buildings tu England since the time of the Romans, 1757. Our PLite must be allowed to l>e highly creditable both to the draughtsman and engraver. The reader must, however, bear in mind, that grand as it appears, the part of the building here represented is only two-thirds of one of its smallest sides. * A brief history and description of Hurstmonceux Castle and its posses- sors, a very tastefully vi-rittcn pamphlet of thirty pages, price !»., was published at Windmill Hil], in 1824, and is sold by the parish clerk, at Hurstmonceux, a very honest and civil man, who is the Cicerone. The pamphlet, to which we arc not without obligations will he found well worth the money ; and we men- tion this, that we may neither injure the author nor the vendor. HURSTMONCEUX. S43 Prior to the Conquest, the estate, then called Hyrst,was the property of Earl Grodwin, and was then given to Earl de War- ren ; but, a few years after, we find it transferred by some means to a Norman family, who assumed its name, one of whom added that oi Monceux, the name of his mother, who was bom at Compton Monceux, in Hampshire. In the reign of Ed- ward II. it passed, by marriage of the heiress of Sir John de Monceux, to Sir Richard Fiennes*, afterwards Lord Dacref, in which family it continued till the year 1700, when one of them * The noble family of Fiennes had been constables of Dover Castle fipom the Conquest to the reign of John, who gave them in exchange the manor of Wendover, Bucks. An Ingelram de Plennes married a daughter of the Eari of Bologne, of the race of the illustrious Godfrey, and was slain at the siege of Acre. t Vaux (a name which will recall the Lord Chancellor Brougham and Vaux to the reader's mind) was the primary and Norman appeUadon of this family, who were Barons of Gillsland, in Cumberland, and one of whom was «' Ronald de Vaux, of Triermajn," the legendary deliverer of King Arthur's punished daughter, Gwyneth, who had slept, by Merlin's magic art, in the evanescent castle of St. John, "five hundred years and one. "^-(Scott's Bridal of Triermain.) — Robert of Gillsland, temp. Henry II., founded the noUe priory of Lanercost, whose Holy Rood, in ancient times, was esteemed so famous : he was also, as well as his son. Sheriff and Custodiary of Cumbo'- land and Carlisle. The latter castle, during his presidency, sustained a si^e by William, King of Scotland- Afterwards the barony passed, at different periods, by marriage of its heiresses, into two other families ; first, that of Moulton, from Henry III. to Edward II. ; and, in 1307, to Ranulph de Dacre, whose ancestor had been Sheriff of Cumberland and Carlisle, temp. Heniy IlL We need not repeat their connexion with the wardenship of the Marches. — When Sir Richard Fiennes, by marriage with the heiress, was, in the year ... at her grandfather's death, created Lord Dacre, Sir Humphrey Dacre, her uncle, was re-created Baron of Gillsland ; hence there were two specific Barons of the ancient title respectively called Dacre "dele North" and "deh Soutk." Of the Fiennes Lords Dacre many individuals are recorded to have possessed noble qualities of piety, domestic affection, and general charity and humanity. — " Francis Lord Dacre, temp. Charles I., was one of those recommended by the Parliament to the King for Lords Lieutenant of Counties, and had Here- fordshire assigned to him ; but, finding that the power was (by various acci- dents) transferred into hands who were nmning every thing into confusion and anarchy, he would by no means be brought to act with them, but opposed their measures ; and at length, when he found it was impossible to do any good thete. he absented himself from the House of Lords (as did several others <^ the Peers), till the ordinance for trying the King was brought in, when he again appeared there, in order to give his public testimony against it, being one of the few peers who (as the author of the Parliamentary History expresses it) bad the courage in that dangerous time to meet, and make the same resolution.'' —CoBuu. b2 J?44 COAST OF SUSSEX. having dissipated it by extravagance at thecourt of Charles 1 1.*, whose natural daughter, Lady Ann Fitzroy, he had married, and who was created Earl of Sussex, sold it to G. Nay lor, Esq. Subsequently it was in the possession of Dr. Francis Hare, chaplain and friend to John the great Duke of Marlborough, afterwards Bishop of Chichester. It has undergone two or three changes since that time, and is now the property of a gentleman named Gillon, who lets the house, built (not by him, but a Goth of the last century) with the materials of the castle, to G. M. Wagner, Esq. Mr. Gillon is, however, the proprietor of the castle, which may be viewed at all times. Names of high renown are thus connected with the impression made by this interesting building. Who knows not the ancient lineage of Dacre ? None but those who have not drank at the fountain-head, and viewed the dawn of the " Last Min- strels" bright and beautiful career +. The " hot Lord Dacre" • He came, however, very younp to court, and >\-as early made a Lord of the Bedchamber, when he lost much by play. The latter part of his life was passed at his estate, at Chevening, in Kent ; " in which parts he always preserved a great interest and influence, and was much beloved on account of that sweet- ness of temper and affability for which he was ever remarkable." — CoUins. f Of an infinity of biogr.ijjhical sketches and tributarj- eulogiums of this la- mented individual, perhaps none are superior to an early one which appeared anonymously in the Court Journal. The trait of character developed in the following par.igraph may be dwelt upon with eager pleasure, as both a soothing and elevating contrast to the too generally acid and envious spirit of the genus irritabile vafitm. There are characters who take a pleasure in depreciating all accesses to moderation with the epithet of "milk and water;" we do not like milk and ^vater, but, in the alternative, should much prefer it to gall and \'inegar. " Were we permitted to inscribe our opinion among those who Believe that the name of Scott will go down to posterity with that of Shakspeare, as a legitimate heir of Fame, we should incline rather to point out the fine moral spirit, the noble warmth of humanity breathing through every line of his works ; and the untarnished virtue which, throughout all the vicissitudes of his career, elevated and strengthened the aspirations of his genius. Equally devoid of envy, guile, and arrogance. Sir Walter was, of all the readers in England, the first to sympathize with the successes of his ' better brothers,' — (Qy.) Byron, Moore, Campbell, or Rogers; — to applaud and encourage the competition of writers of lesser glory, such as Gait or Cunningham ; and to foster and direct the indications of feeble or undeveloped talent. Although the playful coruscations of irony illuminating his works of fiction, no less than the creation of his endless gallery of butts and bores, suffices to prove how tre- mendous would have been his powers had he chosen, after the spirit of the times, to dip his maiden lance in the venom of satire, there is no instance on record of his having written a malicious sentence, or uttered one of those pun- HDHSTMONCEUX. 245 mentioned there is certainly not an amiable specimen in him- self, but he sufficiently demonstrates the ancient grandeur of his race, and exhibits that heroic daring which in the others might have been tempered with milder feelings. " To back and guard the archer band Lord Dacre's bowmen were at hand ; A hardy race, on Irthing bred, ^V"ith kirtles white and crosses red. Array 'd beneath the banner tail. That stream'd o'er Acre's conquer'd wall ; And minstrels, as they march'd in order, Play'd ' Noble Lord Dacre, he dwells on the Border.* ' And let them come,' fierce Dacre cried, * For soon yon crest, my father's pride. That swept the shores of Judah's sea. And waved in gales of Galilee, From Branksome's highest towers display 'd. Shall mock the rescue's lingering aid ! Level each harquebuss on row ; Draw, merry archers, draw the bow ; Up, bill-men, to the walls, and cry, Dacre for England, win or die !' " • ••*••• Sir Roger de Fiennes, treasurer to Henry V^L, obtained from him a licence to build a castle at Hurstmonceux (or otherwise to rebuild and embattle his house), and to enlarge his park to 600 acres. His son Richard, marrying the heiress of Lord Dacre of Gillsland, was the first Fiennes who obtained the title. The barony of Dacre was, in the year 1819, re- vived and restored in the person of Thomas Brand, Esq. The family-seat is now at Lilly, Herts, a parish which, prior to the year 1700, belonged to the family of Docwra (also originally of Cumberland and Westmoreland), of baronial rank in Ireland, ancestors (may the feeling which prompts this be forgiven) to the humble individual by whom this paragraph is written ». Prior to giving our own observations, we must quote three gent sallies which form the glory of a modern wit ; the noble and humane im- pulses of his nature were as incom])atible with harshness of opinion as with a base action !" • Vide Gent Mag., February. 1832, and Chauncey's IIertfordsh're,|>««««i; nlso Drayton's Polyolbion, IGI'2, in the X Vllllh song, of the River Midway, where " Sir Henry Dokwray" is mentioned. 216 COAST OF SUSSKX. descriptions of the former state of this castle in the middle of the 16lh and 18th centuries; the first a MS. survey in the time of Queen Elizabeth, never before published ; the second from the steady pen of Grose, who describes it fix>m the letter of a correspondent in the year 1774; and the last from the fanciful and flippant pen of Horace Walpole. Extract from a curious survey, made in the time of Gregory Fynes, Lord' Dacre, of his Manors in Sussex, Aug. 23, 12 JE&z., in the possession of the Reverend Mr. Hare, of Herstmonceux. " 12 Eliz.—The Manor House of Herstmonceux standeth on the east side of the church of Herstmonceux, about one furlong and half from the said church, and in the west part of the said park, entering the park-gate towards the south-west and north parts; same house eastwards descending towards the valley, wherein the said boose standeth ; the south-west and north parts moated about ; the outer part of the moat being of back wall, and paled upon the same ; and the east part thereof lyeing open to the park and woods, sometime being a pond, and now good pasture, all the moat being of late drained, having little or no water therein, for the more healthful standing of the said house; the entrance of the house being towards the north, on a bridge fifty feet long, . . feet broad, and . . feet high, from the bottom of the moat, whereof . . feet next to the gate is a draught-bridge, devised for strength. The house being castle-like, builded quadrant, every way containing . . . feet in length, and as much in bredth, builded with brick, covered with slate; the towers, gutters, and platforms thereof covered with lead ; the whole towers and other edifices are battled. The entering into tlie said house is at a fair square tower, containing . . feet, and of stories . . . Aly Lord's arms fairly set forth in stone on the front, over the entering of the same, having fair lights of the chief lodging, and second stories of the same tower eroboed of ston^ the high story being a platform covered with lead, and on every side-comer of the same gate one tower of six square embattled, being round within, and in every of them a watch-tower, embattled, covered with lead, and eighteen feet above the rest of the same tower. ITie same gate and towers have portholes, emboed under the embattlement, for casting stones and other defensive engines for defending the same gate; the said gate and towers being defective, of separations of the embattlement thereof, and the watch-towers wasted of great length, with violence of wind and weather, heedful to be seen unto. AVithin the entering of the gate is a fair room, vaulted, of . . feet broad and . . feet long. AVithin the edifices of the said house are four gardens, or courts, whereof the first is at the en- tering of the house, having a fair walk, as in a quadrant, divided from the entering of the said garden with a wall of brick, of eight arches of every siile, bt^ng the inner part of the galleries, serving for lodgings. Three parts of the same are embattled, and the fourth part, towards the north, next the hall, hath a platform covered with lead, for a walk, and the gal- leries and lodging of two stories ; the higher being of no force ; the Ughta thereof set out of the roof, of one square light, gable-wise builded, with HURSTMOKCEUX. 247 turrets ernbattled, and a fair chapel being on the east comer of the same quailrant, and tlie hall buildetl on the north, entering at the west comer of the walk and lower entL The same hall being . . feet long and . . feet over, embattled on both sides, having a square tower at erery end, em- battled, and covered with lead ; the hall having five lights above the said platform on every side, with galleries at both ends ; and at the upper end and lower end of the hall, entering north, on the lower story, there is one other fair walk, lyeing about another of the said gardens, having galleries on three parts of the second story thereof, embattlexl ; having on every side lights with turrets, as in the former galleries. And the north-east comer thereof entereth the parlour, being parcel of the east part of the quadrant of the house ; and in the north-east part of the same garden, by the parlour door, a fair half pace stairs, entering towards the galleries, which cometh to the chief lodging, caUed the gilded chamber, and to other chambers adjoining. * " The other two courts on the other side are for the kitdien, bakehouse, brewhouse, and other necessary houses of offices, which standeth on the west quadrant of the said house, being well served with fair water, con- veyed from a spring, over the mote in troughs cf timber. The same hooae is built castle-like in a quadrant, as before, having at every comer one fair tower, covered with lead, of six square four stories high ; and also between every of the same comer towers there is one other tower of Uke building, leading to the leads and em battlements ; whereas there are walks to pass round about the same house and quadrant ; and at the north side of Uie same house there is a draught bridge over the mote aforesaid, of . . feet broad and . . feet long, leading towards an arbour and ordiard, walled about with brick, which is . . feet square, wherein standeth a fair pile of brick of four stories high, covered with slatt, having a round tower leading to the said stories, tlie lower part being fairly glazed; which hath been used for a banqueting-house ; and the north-east comer of the said arboor there is one otlier building, sometime used for a washing-house, &c. The house having a fair prospect towards the sea, and the castle and level of Pevensey on the south, the other three parts thereof are environed aboot with hills and woods, parcel of the said park. The said park standeth in the east side of the Church of Herstmonceux ; the manor place being in the same park, not distant above two furlongs from the said Church of Herstmonceux ; the said park being three miles about, the third part thereof lyeing in lawns, and the residue well set with great timber trees, most of beech, and partly oak, of fair timber. " The game of fallow deer in the same park are by estimation two hun- dred, whereof are sixty deer of antler, at the taking of this surrey. " The keeping of the said park is given to Thomas Cardy^ one of my lords menial servants, with the fee of sixty shillings, the gate, and feeding of ten kyne, one bull, and two geldyngs, the windfalls, and two several fields containing three acres and an half, called the keepers croft, and paying eight shiUings by the year for the same crofts. Herbage, besides the charge before, will bear twelve geldings or mares in summer-time, and six in winter. The mast, or pawnage, being a mast year, is worth . . which is preserved for the deer. 248 COAST OF SUSSEX. *• There are four fair ponds wdl replenished with Carp, Teadbe, iu, and four stewes besides, the mote bdng drj. " There is a Hemery in the same park caDed the Hem-wood, and ibej used to breed in divers parts of the park : the same hath yielded thia Jtar one hundred and fifty nests, whereof . . of showlers, and the rest of hen>- shaws. There is a fair warren of Conies within the said park, whidi is most used, in the lawn called Howfidd, bdng replenished by es rimition with . . couple of Conies. " The same game being of late in the keeping of the keq>er, is now letten to the keeper for the yearly rent of £6. 13s. 4d., who standeth bound to serre my Lord forty dozen Conies after three shillings the dozoi, yf he be thereof required, or so many as he shall be required after the rate, and the lord dischai^ed of the ffee. There is a lodge covered with thatdi, and a stable very ruinous yn timber and covering, wherein the keqter now lyetk. lliere are three usual gates of the said park, the one called die Church-gate, M'artlyng-gate and Cowper's-gate. There are two highways leading through the park to the church, market, and townshipps adjaoenL There are besides the manor-house of Herstmonceaux, other edifices, Tia. an old stable, forge, and slaughter-house, without the mote. There is a fair bam, a stable, and a mansion-house near adjoyning, lyeing together with a court and curtilage near the park pale, between the church lytett of the west and the park east, and the great heb-ney south, used for the lord's bayly for hay. There is also one other little house with a cortilage adjacent to the church on the west. " The Lord Dacre hath also a Fishynge in the haven of Pemsy, amongst ethers for drawyng and taking eels ; viz. my said lord, the bayly of the liberty, and the heirs of . . Thitcher, Esquyer, e\arj one of them ought to have one night's fishing yearly, and every two of the jurats of the fcame liberty to have hkewise yearly, one nigbt's fishing there, the como- dytye whereof worth yearly to my said Lord Dacre . . . which hath not of late years been put in execution by my lord, albeit the jorors being of the corj)oration of the same liberty, do acknowledge my lord's right therein, wherefore it were very requisite for my said lord to cause the same to be put yearly in execution for preser^'ing his right and preeminens therein. " The lord's court baron for Herstmonceux hath been always used to be kept the same days for the manor, which they call the Custome Court. " The Lord Dacre hath the inheritance of the patronage of the rectory and church of Herstmonceux, which is in the Queen's Books £18 per An. the same being worth forty marks by the year, besides the serving of the cure at this day ; whereof one Robert Kensey, of the age of fifty^oor years, is parson by the gift of the Queen Mary, in the time of my lord's minority."— ^urrrtf MSS. " The Castle encloses three courts, a long one and two smaller ones ; the entrance is on the south front, through the great gatehouse, which leads into a spacious court cloistered round. On the north side is the HaD, which is very large, and much resembling those of the Colleges at Oxford and Cambridge that have not been modernized ; the fire-place being in the middle of the room, and the butteries at the lower end. At the upper HUBSTMOMCEOX. 2e, and are surmounted by battlements, resting on bold machicollations, and above are smaller circular turrets, rising to the height of eighty-four feet. The arch is lofty and contains a neat window above the doorway; over it is a niche deprived of a statue, probably St. George or St. Michael, and a window on each side. The recollections of the former state HUKSTMONCEVX. 251 of the interior we derived from our honest guide. The en- trance tower was for the warders, who had a spacious waiting room above the lower story, which has a vaulted roof, and contains arblast-windows and port-holes for cannon. The rooms to the left of this are supposed to have been stables and store-houses for provisions during a seige. In the turrets are furnaces^ the means of preparing a terrible mode of close de- fence, when Upon tower and turret head. The seething pitch and molten lead, Reek'd like a witch's cauldron red." The south-west and south-east corner turrets have dcme houses in their upper stories, which may have been a wise precaution for sustenance in war-time. The west side contained the kitchen, with its large funnels; the bake-house, with its mighty oven, a brewery, and dairy. On approaching this part, the visitor should beware of a very badly covered well. From the destruction of the interior, the walls which separated the three courts, as well as the cloisters round the first, have disap* peared. The two smaller courts only occupied half the breadth each. At the north-west angle is a tower called the Floodgate Tower, which had water-works communicating with the moat. A gallery, or corridor, eight feet wide only, runs along the north front ; at the west end was a large room for servants, popularly called the " Red Room," from its floor, sides, and arched roof, exhibitins: the naked brick-work : from hence to the east side the rooms are said to have been magnificently wainscotted with carved work, but their precise designation is unknown : in the centre of this front is an oriel; at the north end of the east front was the refectory, with lofty slender windows and oriels, and must have been a handsome apartment- The chapel crosses its south end, transversely, and here we trace the out- line of the principal court. Its oriel at the east end was large and handsome, enclosing three long separate windows of two lights ; above is a turret, supported by a strong flat arch, but, from its position, it is scarcely probable that this was a belfry. From the chapel to the south end were some large and handsome 25S COAST OF SUSSEX. rooms, and at the comer two dungeons, or prisons, but with no particular liorrors that we see beyond others. On leaving Hurstmonceux, we must pronounce it to be by far the finest domestic castellated mansion we have ever seen ; and from all we have read upon the subject, we are disposed to think it has no competitor in England. The Church, " the brave old avenue" to which is gone, is a small early Gothic building, of three aisles, a chancel, and small north chancel, and a very low but neat tower, with triple lancet windows and an obtuse spire, at the north-west. The population is about 1400. The objects which will strike the spectator are two only, be- sides the splendid monument of Lord Dacre ; a tablet in the chancel for a Mr. Luke Trevigar, a rector of this parish, 1772, and his wife, to whose united piety and virtues a striking and pleasing tribute is paid ; and a brass slab on the floor with the following inscription. SSHfllfam . Jpitnles . (TDcbalirr*. (jp . moruit . \t. XFI55 . {our . Ire . ^snucr . Ian . bd . mcarcon . nrc . sngnour . %\hvl . (JTrpst . mill . (CCCTCD . M . ggst . iti . Ije . sa . alnw . irieu . tit mcrqi . tt . qp . pur . sa . almt . Ifcbostcmcnt . paternoster . tt . abe . priera . UI . XX . iours . tit . parlion . enauera . ** William Fienles, knight, who died on the 18th day of January, the year of the incarnation of our Lord Jesus Christ, one thousand four hundred and two, lies here ; God have mercy on his soul ; and whoever will for his soul devoutly say Paternoster and Ave, shall have for it f six times twenty days pardon." On the north side of the chancel is the monument of the first Fiennes Lord Dacre, and his son. This is a stately erection of Sussex marble, and from its colour and outlines brought to our recollection Quentin Matsy''s splendid work ia • « « MQes* and • Chevalier,* or • Chiv-aler, * are both usually inteqtreted * Knight,' but it bas been conjectured that the latter was the higher title of the two." — G«t. May., March, 1812. f So we read it ; it has been elsewhere rendered " twentjn HDRSTMOKCCCX. 253 the choir at Windsor. It has a large cinquefoil ogee arch minutely ornamented, a rich base of quatrefoils, and several fretted niches and canopies. The heraldic bearings and tro- phies have been lately restored and gilt. The back of the monument also, which opens into the small north chancel, now used as a vestry, with some slight fragments of stained glass, is similar in appearance, but has the centre boarded up, and the rest whitewashed. Others of the Fiennes have been here interred. Thomas Lord Dacre, who died in . . . ordered that a hundred wax tapers should be kept burning over his tomb, and that ^* an honest priest should sing for his soul" seven years, with a salary of twelve marks yearly. Of the younger Lord Dacre, to whom, in conjunction with his father, the principal monument is erected, an unhappy fate is recorded in the year 154'1, proceeding from a rather harsh construction of a rash and youthful frolic, but which apparently had no reckless nor evil intention, and perhaps much less hard- ness of heart than many ribald feats of roues in the present day. Listening, as Holinshed observes, to the " lewd persuasions'* of three young associates, Mantell, Frowdes, and Rawdon, he went with them and some others in the night to hunt deer, in Sir Nicholas Pelham's park at Laughton, a few miles distance from his mansion. It is decidedly obvious, that in this pro- ceeding he was actuated by no idea of stealing, or any motive of paltry and dishonest gain, as he had venison enough in his own domain ; it must have been considered in the light of a silly jest or bravado- Unfortunately they encountered three of Sir Nicholas Pelham's keepers, who, faithful to their trust, attacked the aggressors stoutly, and unhappily one of the keepers was killed in the fray ; though very probably without any malice prepense on the part of the intruders, who had their liberty, if not their lives, to defend ; and as it was incontrovertibly proved, whilst Lord Dacre was with other of the masquers in a different part of the park, and totally unconscious of what was going on. The three friends, however, above-mentioned were executed for miu^cr, and Lord Dacre having been found 254 COAST OF S0SSKX. guilty by his peers, suffered the next day after them at Tyburn. He could not, as it is reported, have been convicted if he had pleaded ** not guilty," as he had not been in the fray ; but he was persuaded by some villanous courtiers to plead "guilty," and submit himself to the king's mercy, which these treacherous advisers took care, by means of some influence within their reach, that he should not obtain. The reader will pause, and wonder at such conduct, till he learns a fact which will turn his feelings to indignation, viz., that they expected to obtain a grant of his estate. Much exertion was however used in otbor quarters to obtain the king's favourable consideration, and no '* small moane," as Holinshed informs us, was made for him, ** being a right towardly gentleman, and such a one as many had conceived great hope of better proofe ;" also only in the twenty-fourth j-ear of his age. But he was in the hands of a brutishly obstinate monarch, which, as they had been dyed in the blood of his own wives, were not likely to be deterred from signing the death-warrant of a stranger ; and the ill-fated, for we cannot call him guilty, young man was sent to seek that mercy in another world which was denied him in this. From Hurstmonceux to Pevensey we pass the church of Wartling, a gray-looking building, wth two or three aisles and a wooden steeple. On the north side appears a window, with the flowing tracery of the 14th century. From hence the road passes through a rich level, intersected with brooks, and in summer is not unpleasant : a very agreeable day may be passed between the two objects, as we can testify. Passing through the village of Pevensey, which is now very insignificant, but has some old buildings, the traveller on his entering the castle will probably be surprised by its spaciousness. It is to the rest of the castles in this part of England, what Dr. Johnson affirmed of the castles in Wales, conijjared with those in Scotland — *' one of the former would contain all the latter." On advancing from the outer walls he will approach the keep, with admiration of its substantial round towers, in parts excellently presei-ved, and the strong curtain walls between them. It reminded us of two distinct objects, perhaps PKTENSET. 255 not very similar ; the castle of Falaise in Normandy, and that of Rhyddlan in North Wales, The latter was endeared to us, and perhaps "the wish was father to the thought." That some remains of a Roman castle were here, on which the pre- sent building was engrafted, seems undeniable, the traces being still distinguishable ; also that Roman bricks were worked into the more recent structure : but to speak of the entire castle as one of the principal Roman remains in Britain is careless absurdity. The form of the outer walls is polygonal, but tending to a circle, and they enclose a space of seven acreSt The principal entrance was on the side of West Ham, with a moat and two round towers, near the top of which are several layers of red and white Roman brick. Part of this fell three years ago, when a lady who was viewing it, and the guide, an old woman, narrowly escaped. Red layers also occur in the south-east tower, in opposition to the statement of Gough, whose account of this castle seems very incorrect. The sotith, as we conceive, and not the east side of both the keep and the outer bail was the same : — here the sea is supposed to have flowed up at a very distant period, and before the present town was erected. But the irregular form of the structure rather puzzles an ordinary spectator as to the direction of the cardinal points. Facing the south or south-west are two long iron guns, not very old in appearance, but one of them has the initials of Queen Elizabeth : they do not seem to be larger than 9 jwunders, and were fired at the Jubilee in 1809. The E.S.E. wall stands on a cliff: this is the most ruinous part of the building, and has a very picturesque appearance ; terrific looking masses have rolled down from the walls, which are generally ten feet thick. The keep has the most complete featurtss ; the upper parts of several of the towers are of very perfect and solid masonry, and exhibit their windows for arbalists : — a kitchen, refectory, &c., or those places supposed to be such, are in the lower stories of the round towers, with Norman arches in the walls. Altogether, though there is not much richness of architecture, or carved work, few ruins are more teeming with interest than those of Pevensey castle. The 9.56 COAST OF SUSSEX. walls are occasionally beautifully covered with ivy and small hedge-shrubs, and those who have no fear of giddiness may walk round the greater part of those in the keep. On the south side was a sally-port, and on the north-east an entrance- gate to the town. The church now appears disfigured, but was doubtless once a respectable structure. It has three aisles, with a very large and extremely low tower, with a pointed roof on the north side. The chancel, neatly covered with ivy, appears to have been larger, and has three fine lancet windows at the east end. HISTORY. Pevensey was termed by the Saxons Feofnesea *. Its first authentic mention in history is in the year 792, 31 Office^ when it was given by Berodaldus, with Hastings, to the abbey of St. Denis, at Paris. One of the possible localities of Anderida has been assigned to this place, but with less likelihood than those we have pre- viously alluded to. Usher also conjectures it to be the Caer Peiisavclccoid of the Britons. This was one of the places ravaged and partly burnt by Earl Godwin; and in the reign of Edward the Confessor, 1043, " Earl Swayn came out of Denmark with 8 Ships and returned to Eng- land and coming to his father's House Earl Godwyns at Perensey hnmUy requested of him and his Brothei-s Harold and Tostie to endeaTOur his reconciliation with the king." — PoweWs Wales. Burrell MS& " Pevensey, called by the Saxons Peofensea, by the Normans Pevensell, and now commonly Pemsey ; we set it in the first place, because we con- ceive when it gave the name of the Rape to it, it was the chief town, though no market town, so far as we can discover. It was certainly of old a famous place for shipping, for it is reckoned one of the seaports which Godwin Earl of Kent ravaged in Edward the Confessor's time, and took away many ships ; but now it is only accessible by small boats, which crowd up a rill to it. WTiat is spoke memorable of it in our historians, we shall set down in the order of time in which it happened, vis. : In 1049, Suane, Earl of Oxford, Gloucester, Hereford, Somerset, and Berks, • " It may seem to take its name from the scouring of the haven by the waters of the level pent in, having vent through their sluices here into the sea." —Jeaket' Cinque PorU. PF.VENSET. 257 son of Godwin Earl of Kent, beinir forced to fly into Denmark, because he ha<{ enveiglctl Edgiva, abbess of Leominster, out of her house with an in- tent to marry her, contrary to the laws of those times, returned with eight ships and landetl at this town, where having obtained his cousin Beom to mediate for him to the king, upon his promise that for the future he would become a faithful subject ; he took Beorn into his ship to carry him to the king, who was then at Sandwich, under pretence of making his peace ; bat Suane having thus got him into his power, carried him to Dort, in Holland, where he inhumanly murdered him, and cast his body into a. deep ditdi covering it with rauiL Aldred, bishop of Winchester, obtained his pardon for alluring Edgiva ; but his conscience could not pardon his treacheroos cruelty in murdering Beom his kinsman, until be underwent the penance of going to Jerusalem barefoot, in which journey he got so much cold th^ he died thereof at Licia, in his return home." — Account of Eastbourne, 1787. " Pevensey river, though now so insignificant, was formerly, in all |wo- bability, of no mean consideration, the names of places considerably inland from Pevensey found that presumption. Herxt Haven, about three miles inland, shows there was a station for vessels at the wood. Herst Bridge, north-west of Hailsham, now corruptedly called Horse Bridge, was for- merly a pass of some consequence, as it combined the communication be- tween the open country and the wild, seems to have been placed at the entrance of the great wood, as a neighbouring family seat renders probable, now vilely corrupted into Horse/ungs, but anciently denominated Herst- longiie, to show the commencement of the Silva Anderida, in that part of the country." " About 1700, the river was navigable for small vessds to Pevensey Bridge."— fiwrrefl MSS. The town, castle, and raf>e of Pevensey were given by the Conqueror to Robert, Earl of Moriton, in Normandy, his half- brother. JDoonuJoy. " In Burgo Pevensel T. R E. fuer. 94 Burgenses in d'nio Regis, et reddet de gablo 14 sol et 6 den, de theoloneo xx sol, de porta 35 ad, de pastiu-a 7 sol et 3 den, E'pus de Cicestre habet v. burgenses. Edraer xt. Ormer v. Dodo iiL" Ibidetn. " WOls Comes Moreton dedit apud Pevensel unam vergatam terrc. lb. Monachi de Moreton et Burgenses de 66 deo." " Gislebert vicecom. 1 burgs'e de xx den. Wills de Cahainges ; 2 bar- genses de 2 soL BoseUn. v. de 2 soL Wills ; 4 de 2 soL An8&id\ 4 de S sol. Giruldas ; 2 de 6 soL Ansgot 3 de xii den. Bemardus S de 7 den. Radulfus; 2 de 12 den. Alanus; 6 de 4 sd. Radulfus ; 3 de 5S den. AzeUnus; 3 de 4 soL Ipse ten' ura' doma'de 32 den; et parvum'. Frae de 3 sol. Walterius; 2 burg'ses 16 den. Rogerius; 2 de 19 den. Hugo 1 de 8 denar. Un' mohn' habet Comes de 20 soL Aluredus habet de herbag 15 sol 4 denar." 258 COAST OF StrSSEX. N. B. The very ample documents relating to Pevensey in the Burrell MSS. are more confusedly arranged than any other part of that collection. We think it probable, however, that they may have as much interest for the reader in their original miscellaneous garb, as if we were to undertake the laborious and uncertain task of marshalling them into an abridged and regular narrative. " Rohtas Comes Moreton frater Willielmi R^s dedit Ecdesup et Mo- nadiis S. Marite de Grestdn in Pevensd domum Engelerii et qoicqaid ad eun {lertinet cam omni eonsaetndine, et in foresta sua de Perensd pasn»- ginm et herbagiam et matoiem ad ccclesias suas et ad proprias domos sius constituendas et ad focum saura." — Carf. 9 Ex. n. 2 1 per Inspex. " Richems de Aquila dedit Ecclesise et monachis S. Maris de Grestein omnes decimas de dominis sao de Castellaria, de Pevensell in qaoconq* modo terrs lucratte fiierint et bordarum de Buscheio liboiim et qmetnin, et decimam piscatoris sue antequam oUa pars inde exeat, quod Riera primos confirmat.' — Ibid. " Stephanus Rex Anglis Ardiiep'is &c., Sciatis me conoessisse et dedisse Eccksiae S. Trinitatis Cicestriae, Hillario Epo et Saccessoribos suis Epis- copis, in perpetuam demosynam, Capellariam de Perensel cum omnibus ad earn pertinentibus, ita quod Hillarias E'pus et Successores soi inde sint CapeUani Matildis R^ns uxoris mex, et successores ejus, et ad festa ejus invitatl tauquam proprii Capellani ejus venient, et ei inde serviant.' " Job. — Jobannes Rex concessit Baronibus de Pevensd quod faciant unam villam, super Galetum qucd jacet inter portum de Pevensd et Lan- generc" — fide p. 262. " 9 Job. — Barores de Pevenesd debajt xL marcas, pro habenda liceiitia faciendi unaro viUam super Galetum." — Do, " 6 Ric. 1. — De Scutaj^o militum ad redemptionem d'ni R^is, in Sussex. Gilbertus de Aquila debet xxi'. xvii\ vi**. de scutagio militum suomm, sciboeC de quolibet milite xii*. vi"*. Quia sunt de parvo feodo Moritonis." — Mag. Rot. 6 R.l.ie.a. " Ric. 1. — Ricardus primus concessit Johanni de Palema feodum parte de PevenseL Concessit etiam eidem Jobanni custodiam portc CastdU PerenseL"— See Aylijjf* CharUr, pp. 26, 27. " Ricns primus confirmat Ekxle'is et monachis S. Maria? de Grestein ex dono Hugonis de Cahaignes in Pevensd iii acras temp. Ex dono Willis filii .\lfwredi 4 acras tem quas tennit Sefredus juxta Ecdesiam Sl Marie de Pevensd ex parte ocddentis." — Cart. 9. £. 2. m. 21 per Inspex. " 4 Hen. — William, Earl of Moreton, in Normandy and Cornwall, ivho, 4 Hen. I. A. n. 1104, rebelling against that king, he seized on all bis posses- sions inEngland, and banished him the realm, afterwards taking him prisoner at the battle of Tenerekebray, in Normandy, he senthim prisoner to England, put out bis eyes, and bestowed this manor, town, and castle, on Gislebert als Gilbert de Aquila, eon of Richer de Aquila, and Judith his wife, d. of PEVEXSTY. 859 Ridid. lie Abrincts, sister of Hngh, first E. of Chester, wch Ric^ier was slain, A. D. 16SJ, fighting for king Wm. against his rdiellious subjects of Maine, leaving issue 2 Sons, 1 Gislebert, 2 Egenulph, and 1 d. Maud, m. Robt. de Molbray, E. of Northumberland." — Order icus VUalu, 649 ^< " He married Juliana, d. of Geffrey, E. of Mauritane, by whom be had 4 sons, 1 Richer, 2 Eugenulf, 3 Geffrey, 4 Gislebert. Eugenulf and Geffrey were shipwrecked, with the children of Henry 1. On the grant of the afd manor, town, and castle of Pevensey to Gislebert, it was called the honor of Aquila, or the E^agle, Pevensey Castle being the bead thereof. The afd. Gilbert d . . . and was succeeded by his son. " Ricker, or Richd. de Aquila, who taking op aims against that king, to restore Wm. son of Robt. Curthose, to his father's honors, his estate became forfeited, but was restored by the intercession of his onde Rotro ; being engaged a second time in the same rebdUon, his estate again escheated to the crown, and was settled by the king on his grandson. ** Henry Fitzempress (Maud), who, afler a long contest with king Stephen, to recover his right, compounded for his success, assigned the town and castle of Pevoisey, and whatever Richer de Aquila had of this honor to " Wm. son of king Stephen, who held them till Hairy 2d. attained the throne, and 4 Hen. 2 surrendered than again to the king on the restitution of all the Lands which were his father's before he was king of England, upon which Henry 2 restored them again, as it seems, to " Richer de Aquila for he, 12 Hen. 2, on collection of the aid for marry- ing the king's dan. certified that he held 35^ knights' fees, of wch he had been enfeoffed in the time of Hen. 1. This Richer gave the monks of Grestine, in Normandy, the lanils and woods lying in the manor of Willin- done, in Sussex, with the tythes of his mill there, as also herbage in his forest, and also tythes of his Idp. and castle of Pevenesd, and other lands of great value in Sussex. He d. 22 Hoi. 2, 1176, and was succeeded by Gilbert de Aquila. " Gilbert de Aquila, 6 R 1, paid 2U Is. 6d. for his kni^ts' fees in Sussex, on the scutage then collected for king Richard's redempticm ; he m. . . . sister to Wm. £. of Warren, and d. in Normandy, 6 Job. was succeeded by his son, " Gilbert de Aquila m. Isabel ; his est es were forfdted for passing into Normandy without the license of king Henry 3, who, a. r. 19, granted this manor, and all the lands belonging to the said Gilbot, with the advowsons of the churches, as also of the castle of Pevensey, with the wards and service thereto belonging, to " Gilbert Mareshall, E. of Pembroke, to hold by the service of 2 knights' fees until the same shall be restored to the right heirs thoeof. On Satur- day, at the eve of St. Botolph, he delivoed up this castle to the king. Cart. 24 H. 3. m. 2., who, 2.5. H. 3. (Pat. m. 2.) bestowed it on his Qneen't Uncle during pleasure, for his better support, except such lands as Gilbert Mareschall had disposed, viz. the town of Greywell, in marriage to Gilbert Basset with Isabel, d. of Wm. Ferrers. " 20 Hen. 3, 1236. The Earldom of Warren at this time hdd of the icing 62 knights' fees in the rape of Lewes, and 30i in the rape of Peven- esel, of the fee of Gilbert de Aquila. Dug. Bar. 77 a.— Testa, de NeviL • 2 260 COAST OF SUSSEX. " 29 R. 9. Pevensey castle besl^ed by the men of Sussex, Surrey, and Kent, he adhering to Henry, Duke of Lancaster." " Odo de Baieux shut himself up in Pevensey castle, where he was in hopes to hold out a siege till the Duke of Normandy shoidd come to his relief; but the town was taken in a few days. Huntingd. p. 372. The Saxon Annals, and Simeon of Durham say, that it held out above six weeks, and Brompton, p. 595, says seven weeks. On the death of the Conqueror, A. D. 1087, Odo de Baieux was released from his imprisonment in the castle of Roan, in Normandy, by Wm. Rufus; coming to England, was confirmed in ye possession of his Earldom of Kent, as also in many of his former places of trust, amongst which was ye castle of Rochester ; but when Odo found he had not ye whole sway, he raised an insurrection in Kent, in order to advance Robert, Duke of Normandy, to the throne, and having pillaged many places in that county, carried his plunder to Rochester, from whence he went to Pevensea castle, where he held out a siege for six weeks, when he was forced, for want of food, to surrender it to the king, and to bind himself to deliver up Rochester castle, where ye chief Norman Lords were shut up, under the command of Eustace, Elarl of Bologne. Wm. E. of Moretagne and Boulogne, 3rd son of king Stephen, lord of the honor of the Eagle et Pevensey, and, in right of his wife, 4th Earl of Warren and Surrey, died at the siege of Tholouse, a.d. 1160, without issue. " A. D. 1 1 ii. Stephen invested the castle of Pevensey, but finding it too strong to be taken by force, left a body of men before the place to reduce it by famine. " In ye Tieaty between Henry and Stephen it was agreed that William Stephens' son should have inter alia the Honour of the lateWm. Warrenne, whose daughter and heir he had married, and Richer de I'Algle's share of ye Honor of Pevensey, and should do homage and give security or hostages for his fidelity to Heury."— fiurre// MSS.,p. 186, o^l682. *' Hen. 3. a.d. 1265. The Barons, thinking it of great consequence to their party to be entire masters of the coast of Sussex, Leicester, with this view, sent John Fitz Alan orders, in the king's name, to deliver up his son and heir, or the castle of Arundel, by way of hostage for his fidelity. The castle of Pevensey being still left very convenient for receiving supplies from France, Simon de Montfort had marched from London with a body of the City Militia, and another of the Barons' troops to invest it, but after losing a great deal of time before it, was called away by his father, who wanted his assistance, and returned to London." " 27 Ed. 1 ■ Baronia et Honor de Aquila is quit claim to the king by Amadeus comes Sabaudia-"— Surre// 3^1SS. In 18 Edw. 1, a complaint was made by the Abbot of Battle, Prior of Lewes, and a great many others, having lands in Pevenesel Marsh, that one Lucas de la Gare, who was appointed by the king one of the overseers and guardians of the Marsh, insteaINO THK GAgTI.B OF PETEN8ET, 25th July, 1399. ( From Ltrydges' Peerage, voL ▼. ) " My dear Lord, I recomniande me to yowr hie Lordeschipp wyth hert aiid body and all my pore mygth, and wyth all this I think zow, as my dere Lorde, derest and best yloved off all erthlyche Lordes, I say for me, and tlianke y how my dere Lord, with all thys that I say before, off your comfort- able lettere, that ze send me from Lowne&aite, that com to me on Mary Magdaleyn day ; ffor by my trowth I was never so gladd as when I heard by your lettre, that ye warr stronge ynogh wyth the grace off God, for to kepe yow fro the malyce of your ennemys. And dere Lord iff it lyk to your hyee Lordeschipp that als son als ye mycht, that I myght bar off your gracious spede, whyche God Almyghty contynue and encrnsse. And my dere Lord iff it lyk zow for to know off my flare, I am here by layd in manna- off a se^e, with the counte of Sussex, Sudray, and a great parcyU off Kente; so that lue may noght out, nor none vitayles gette me, bot w* myche hard. AVharfore my dere iff it lyk zow, by the awyse off rowr wyse counsell, for to sett remedye off the salvation off yhow'er casteQ, and w* stand the malyce off ther sdiires foresayde. And also that ye be fullyche enformed off there grett malyce wyrkers in these schyres, whydie y' haffes so dispytfuUy wrogth to zow, and to zowr castell, to yhowr men, and to zour tenaunts ffore this cuntree, have gai wastede for a gret whyle. Fare wele my dere Lorde the Holy Trinity zow kepe fro zowr ennemys, and son send me gud tythyngs off yhow. Ywryten at Pevoisey in the castell on Saynt Jacobe day last past. ** By yhowr awnn pcre L Pdham." Thus directed. ** To my trew Lorde." " 17 Ric. «.— John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, granted to John Pelham, Esq., the office of constable of his castle of Pevoisey, during Bfe, with the fees, wages, &c. thereto bdonging, given under his seal, in the castle of Hertford, Dec the 7th.'' " 1 Hen. t.— King Henry the 4th, by his letters-patent, dated at West- minster, 12 Feb. a. r. 1», granted to John Pelham, and his heirs male, the office of ConsUble of the Castle of Pevensey, with the honour of the Eagle, and all those his manors, lands, tents, rents, services, fees, chaces, parks, warrens, mills, rivers, fisheries, as also all ]terquisites of Courts of the Hundred, herioLs, reliefs, escheats, francliises. returns of writs, issues, fines, felons, and of and all other the profiU whatsoever and franchises of PEVEKSEY. 265 tlie Cinque Ports, within die rape of Pevensey, which was ratified and confirmetl by letters-{»atent, bearing date 1 July foUoMring." " 7 Hen. 4..— The Duke of York was committed to Sir John Pdbam'a keeping in the castle of Pevensey till the next Parlt, being aocoaed of conveying to Owen Glendower, the sons of Roger, E. of March." — Stowe'a Annals, Ed. 1614, p. 332." " 6 Hen. 5. (says Collins) the King committed to Sir John Pdham's custody Queen Joane, the last wife of Hen. IV., which Sir Jn. P. appointed nine servants to attend and biing her to his castle of Peveuseye." " % Hen. 5.— Edw. Plantagenet (s. and h- of Edm. de Lang^ey) Duke of York, by his will dated 22 Aug'., proved 30 Nov., 1415, gives the following bequest : — " Idem le devise a Thomas Pleistede xx^ en memoire pour la natnreaBe (kindness) qu'il me monstra quant je fuy a Pevensey en garde." — GoKgk't mils, published 1780, 4/o. Lond. "3 H. 5.— Sir John Pclham, by his charter, dated 3 June, grants to his son, Jn. Pelhara, the office of constable of Pevensey, with the fees and wages thereto belonging (granted to him and his heirs male by Hen. 4.) under the seal of Lancaster." " 1 Ed. 4., 1461. — Sir Wm. Fiennes was appointed constaUe of Pevensey Castle for life; he was slain at the battle of Bamet, 1471, 1 1 Edw. 4."— 3 Dug- Bar. 146, A. " Hen. 5., 30 Sept., 1415.— Thos. West, Ld. Ddawarr, died seized of the honor of Aquila." " The manor of Pevensey, some time styled the honor of Aquila, is in the parishes of Pevensey, Helsham, ^Vestham, and BexhiU. " 1 Mary, 1 August.— Constable and Porter of the Castle of P^enfcy, Richd. Oxenbridge. Fee 22/. 1 6*. 3d"— MS. in Dulwich Library.— BurreO. BCRRELL MSS. 5682— P. 639. Par/t. Survey, taken July 1650. "All that the manor of Pevensey als. Pemsey, sometimes styled the Honor of Aquila, with all y« rights, members, and appert' thereof, bdng in y several townships or pshes. of Pevensey, Westham, Haylsham, and Bexhill, or elsewhere in Pevensey Rape, in y° Co. of Sussex, and all those rents or yearly suras of money commonly called quit rents, free rents, old rents ; seeke, portreeves, and burgage rents ; copyhold, customary and all other rents whatever, to y* said manor belonging; all c' leete, law days, c' baron and other c^ whatever; services, franchises, customs, custom- worics, forfeitures, escheate, relief, herriots, fines upon descent or alienation, perquisites and profits of the said court, and leetes, and every of them ; wayfs, estrays, deodai^ds, good and chattels of felons and fugitives, felons of themselves, condemned persons, clerks convicted, outlawed persons, and of persons put in exigent; ways, passages, lighte, easement, streams, waters, watercourses, weares, damms, and tanks, mill-pools, wrecks of set, tallage, tolls, suite, soken, midture, commons, grounds used for oommoo, ways, passages, waste-grountls, woods, underwoods, timber and other trees, moores, marslies, hunting, hawking, fishing, fowling, rights, royalties, jurisdictions, libcnies, privileges, immunities, profits, commodities, advan. luges, emulumeiits, posses: ions, heredit', and api>art*, whatsoever, to y* said 266 COAST OF SDSSEX. manor, to the royalties thereof, and premises, belonging or appertaining, or therewith heretofore held, possessed, or enjoyed, reputed, taken, or known, as part, parcel, or member of y' same; and also all that court, with the appurt", called the inner ward of the castle of Pevensey, lyeing in Pevensey town and parish, being now a garden plot, contain*. 1 acre ; also all that land lyeing under the s" side of y castle wall, cont*. 1 acre ; also those 11 ac. of land in the court called the Base Court, and the 3 marshes called the N. S.W. marshes in y» psh. of Pevensey, now or late in y« occu- pation of Sir Thos. Pelham, or his assigns, the same being found and retximed on y' survey thereof to be an overplus of measure more than granted in any original lease of y« said lands and premises; and also those 60a. Ob. 20p. of land lyeing in Ck)ckmersalts in Bexhill psh- now or late in y* tenure of Jn. Giles and Benj. Scarlet, Gent, or their assigns, found in measure above what has been granted in y* original lease or leases thereof; also those lands lyeing in south lease in Pevensey p'sh, returned in said survey to be an overplus measure more than is mentioned in Ferrer's lease, now or late in y' occupation of Ashbumham, or of his ass", cont«. lA. 1r. Op. ; also 5 ac. in y* tenure of Jn. Meeres, or his ass°' ; also 3 parcels of marsh and upland called the King's Wishes, lyeing in Moore- brook, in Kelsham p'sh, cont». 10a. 2r. Cp., in y" tenure of Ja'. Fennell of AV'ilmington, or his ass"' ; als that mess» called the George in Westham town, near y' west gate leading to Pevensey castle, with y* yards and 2 gardens, cont^. 1 ac ; also a cottage under y* W. end of Pevensey castle, adjoin, thereto, with a stable and garden cont. besides said garden, 4-0 feet in length and 16 feet in bredth ; also all that burgage tenem' garden and land, cont' 4 an acre in Pevensey town, in Geo. Richardson's occupation ; also Oa. Ir. Op. of land under the N.E. end of the inner ward of y* old castle, adjoin* to y' east end of y'' slip which lyes under y* so. side of y* castle wall, late in Nicholson's occup. : also a cottage on y* waste in Thos. Lowe's occup-, and another cottage lately erected on y* waste in Perchin's occup' ; also a mess, bam, and garden, orchard and croft, in Westham p'sh, cont;< 1a. 4r. Op. in Sam. Wilson's occup" &c. V" an. 82/. 1 9s. 3d. ob., which arises thus — Portreeve and other rents 24/. 7s.3d.oh., perquisites of c'. and other royalties 10/. 14.J. 6d., one acre in the inner ward 1/. Os. Od., do. under the castle wall 0/. 13*. 4n the oatsitie of the outer castle wall, to the South, has been a ditch. Part of the outer wall on the ^Vest angle of the South tower has been destroyed, or much damaged, as the present low wall ^peiis of a different sra from the rest of the main walL The bastions of the outer wail are sc^d masonry, on one of which in the N* face has been erected a square building. The keep has been strongly fortified with round towers, one of wcl> in the N.E. part seems to have strengthened that part wch joined the N. £. part of the inner c' ; many towers of die outer c' are destroyed. The lines of Roman tile in the wall of towers not equally r^ular. An egg fimnd in a wdl several feet underground." — Bur- rcUMS. " Before we quit Pevensey, it may not be unentertaining to insert the following anecdote. At a quarter sessions (for the liberty) some years ba^ a man was brought to thebar, charged with stealing apair of buckskin breeches;, which charge was fully proved, he was found guilty by the Jury ; but when the conn were informed the offence was a capital one, and that diey must proceed to pass sentence, they were so much alarmed, that diey wished to reverse the verdict, and give a fresh one, in such words as to make the consequence less than death ; they therefore adjourned the court; and dispatched a messenger to Thomas Willard, Esq. of East Bourne, die then town-clerk, (whose deputy was on that day attending,) to beg his opinion whether it was possiUe to reverse the present verdict, and reoeiTe a fresh one, together with his instructions how to proceed. It happened that Lord Wilmington, to whcan this place at that time belonged, with the then Chief Baron of the Exchequer, were at dinner with Mr. Willard, when this curious application arrived, to whom Mr. W. having reported the contents, the Chief BanHi jocosely said, ' instruct them to reverse the present verdict, and bring it in Manslaughter:' to which Lord Wil- mington consenting, Mr. W. advised accordingly, and a new verdict to that effect was absolutely the cfmsequence." — Royers' Eastbourne, 1787. The population is returned in 1831 as only 343, but this is confined to the few houses forming the town or village in the immediate -vicinity of the church and castle. In 1821, the parish contained 98 bouses, and 752 inhabitants. The valua- tion of real property in 1815, was very considerable, viz. town ^8320, parish JP2009. HASTINGS TO WINCHELSEA AND RYE. MILES )tII.BB To FAntLIOHT DOWN . . i WHiCHKUSKA . , I^ OUESTUNO .... 2 RTB 3 ICKI^BSBAJf .... 3^ IS On leaving Hastings at the London extremity, we find no object sufficient to arrest the attention till we reach the sum- mit of Fairlight Down, leaving the village in a picturesque hollow to the left; the church small and uninteresting in itself, is erected on a hill to the right, above the sea, hence called by Leiand *' the high steeple," and forming an effec- tive landmark ♦. When the traveller has reached the windmill on the highest point, 599 feet above the level of the ocean, should the hour and state of the atmosphere be propitious, he will be detained by a view, which he will readily allow to be at least one of the most commanding and lovely he has ever witnessed, whether he has traversed the extent of England, Scotland, and Ireland, or even if he is not unacquninted with some of the rich prospects of the continent, short of the Alps or Mount Caucasus. We say lovely ; for more abrupt and sublime views there doubtless are in abundance : but a more beautiful and variegated expanse of land and water, of rich woods and plains, villages and towns, with a diversified line of coast, and an open sea, often thickly studded with vessels of every description, he cannot easily see, or desire to see. The whole forms a complete panoramic circle ; the sweep of inland scenery extending to the hills in the neighbourhood of London ; and the sea view reaching from Beachy-Head to Dover cliffs, between 70 and 80 miles apart, and stretching out to the heights of Boulogne ; the entire area of the prospect both by land and water cannot be much less than 300 miles. • " It is off Farleijrh head that the northern tide, flowing from the Gerauui sea through the straights of Dover, meets, with a great rippling, the tide from the vast Atlantic, which is sensibly felt between this place and Boulogne." — Pennant' WINCHELSKA. 271 Amongst minor objects visible are enumerated ten towns, sixty-six churches, seventy martello towers, three bays, five ancient castles, and forty windmills. We should here in candour state, that the section of the panorama, which Mr. Scott found most available for the pur- poses of his art, is not an eighth part of the whole, and per- haps, especially to those to whom Hastings is a " twice told tale," the least interesting. The best time for seeing it is in the afternoon. We met with a favourable juncture when the sea was partly in shadow, and the sunshine reflected from the cliffs, at a short distance, looked like a space or carpet of molten silver stretched over the surface of the water. The sweep of Romney marsh, beyond the harbour of Rye, and the light-house of Dungeness, have a very pleasing appearance. The Castle hill at Hastings, nearly 300 feet high, appears a small eminence beneath our feet ; and the interior view of the richly wooded, and thickly peopled country, is in summer of the most captivating interest There is a social and cheering attraction in this prospect not to be found in the solitary though exalted grandeur of Bcachy Head. We have here the distant " busy hum of men," indications of social union and amusement, and a long and various train of associations all tending to render us more in good humour with our kind, and to excite feelings of good will for their happiness and prosperity. We call to mind the various interests, tastes, hopes, and fears of count- less thousands, all of whom have been gifted with various capacities of happiness ; and we reflect that in England each is blessed with the advantages and influences of a pure reli- gion, a paternal and congenial government, equitable laws, wise institutions, suitable social customs, charitable and bene- volent motives, and noble historical, and existing associations. The mind must be hard which does not admit these feelings, and it must be happy, at least for the time, when it partakes of them. Descending from our imaginative elevation, and the hill at the same time, we reach Gucsiling, a beautifully situated 272 COAST OF SUSSEX. village, containing many pretty villas. Part of the village is built on the steep descent of a hill, with a church of plain appearance, and a pointed steeple, on another eminence facing it. The country from hence to Ickleshani, is of the most ornamentally wooded and pastoral aspect imaginable, varied by frequently recurring hill and dale. Here, if ever, the poet might exclaim; -Pallas quas condidit aroes. " Ipsa colat, nobis placeant ante omnia Sylv*.* At Broomham is the park of Sir William Ashbumham^ containing a neat house of stone, and a picturesque rookery, which is much admired. The village of Icklesham, though large and populous, has no object of particular interest. The church appears to be a neat building, in the decorated style, of two aisles, with the tower in a not unusual position in this neighbourhood, inz. at the middle of the north side. In Pope Nicholas' taxation, the church of Ickelsham was worth annually 61. 13*. 4d. ; the Vi- cars of the same had 16Z. 13^. 4d. The etymology of this place is Eccles-ham, " the place of the church.** The new town of Winchelsea was built in this parish, and the vicar of Icklesham has to this day an allowance from the Exchequer in consideration of the tithes of that part of the parish taken into the parish of old Winchelsea. The population in 1831 was €04: value of real property in 1815, 7062/. The two miles from hence to Winchelsea are very plea.santly wooded, and the scenery on the right is varied by hofKgrounds. On approaching the site of this town of ancient grandeur, we readily recognize the description of a spacious level hill, formerly entirely occupied by ranges of building, not enclosed by walls, as the sea then overflowed the level, forming a suf- ficient defence. Everything indicates the locality of an old town of great spaciousness. We pass the fragment of the neio gate, leave the extensive ruins of the priory on the right, and reach the central square, exhibiting the decorated and ivy- mantled remnant of St. Thomas's Church, and on the left the WINCHELSKA. 879 gaol of tin's insignificant liberty, with an ancient wall, a Nor- man arch, and other indications of former extent. HISTORY. Winchelsea is not mentioned in the Saxon Chronicle: the name given to it in barbarous early Latin is Frigetmareventus, i. e. " wind-chills-sca ;" but its real etymology is supposed by Mr. Clark to be IF5«ctZ, on the authority of Somner, " angulus," and seUy or ea " mare ;" — *'Angulus ad mare," a comer or pro- jection by the sea. Few or no notices of it are discoverable before the Conquest, except that it was given by the Confessor to the Abbey of Fiscamp, which grant was afterwards con- firmed by William and Heni-y I., with all its liberties, free customs, pleas, plaints, and causes. The old town, which stood much nearer to the Camber Point than the present, was drowned by the sea in the thirteenth century. In 1067, King William landed at Winchelsea, and, by his sudden arrival, de- feated the measures agreed on by the English for shaking off the Norman yoke. Henry II. landed at Winchelsea, irom Dieppe, Jan. 30, 1188. Henry III., in the thirty-first year of his reign, " for the better defence of his realm," as Mr. Jeake observes, " and it might be to conceal from foreigners the intelligence of affairs at home, and stop them of such con- venient ports of passage," exchanged with the Abbey of Fis- camp, the town of Winchelsea for the manor of Chilcdiam, otherwise Chiltham, or Chiltenham, in Gloucestershire. We find a very unprepossessing account of the old town, whose in- habitants were not only pirates, but very cruel ones. In 1265, Simon de Montfort, intending to bring over foreign troops to cause an insurrection in England, repaired to Winchelsea at the time of Lent, intending to pass over to France, but was induced to stay and take a share in their piracies, in which they were borne out by others of the Cinque PotIs, but the heir apparent, afterwards Edward I., hastened to stop this iniquitous career. " Old Winchelsea had been a most powerful port, but, Kke the othen, its vessels acted in most of their cruizes with savage barbarity. Daring T 274 COAST Olr S0S8KX. the time that Shnoa de Montfort, Earl of Leicester, bdd his iron rod over these kingdoms, they gave fall loose to their piracies, and flung overboard the crews of every ship they met, whether it was foreign or English : Lei- cester had share of the booty, so winked at their enormities. In 1266, Prince Edward pat a stop to their cruelties ; he attacked ^Vlnchelsea, took it by storm, and pat to the sword all the principal persons concerned in the inhuman practices of the times : the rest he saved, and granted the inha- bitants far better terms than they merited. He at that time feared their powo", and the assstance they might give to the rebellious Montfort, had he been too rigoroos in his measures. By the date of this transaction it is evident that the destruction of old Winchelsea could not have happened till after the accesaoa of Prince Edward to the throne." — PcmmomI. The period when Winch elsea and Rye were taken into the number of the Cinque Ports was, according to Liord Cok^ between the time of the Conqueror and King John, and they are styled '*Nobiliora Membra."" Winchelsea was first incor- porated by the style of the Barons, &c. &c., and afterwards of the mayor, jurats, and commonalty. The time of the destruc- tion of the first town is not ascertained within a few years. An anonymous author quoted by Grose (his style is very like that of Matthew Paris) tells us as follows : — " In the month of October, in the year 1250, the moon being in its prim^ the sea passed her accustomed bounds, flying twice without ebb, and made ' so horrible a noise, that it was heard a great way within land, not without the astonishment of the oldest man that heard it. Besides this, at dark night, the sea seemed to be a light fire, and to bum, and the waves to beat with one another, insomuch that it was past the mariners' skiU to save their ships; and to omit others, at a place called Huchebam (probably East or Hither Botime) three noble and famous ships were swallowed np by the violent rising of the waves, and were drowned. And at Winchdsea, a certain haven, eastward, besides cottages for salt, fishermens' huts, bridges, and mills, above 300 hoaxes, by the violent rising of the waves, were drowned. This was probably not the principal inundation. " In the eighth year of the leign of Edward I., in a writ directed to his steward, Ralph de Sandwicli, for to exchange or buy of John de Langherst, and John Bon, if they would sell, lands that lay near Iham, and fit to the building of the it^ir toirm of Wincheltea. It is mentioned that the greater part of W'indieLea was drowned, and the sea prevailing more and more against it that the rest was hoi>eless long to stand. In tlie tenth year of his reign he issued forth a c^minisidon to Stephen dc Pcveester, and others. W1XCHEL5EA. 275 to assign places at Iham (being a bill near) for the inhabitants of old Win- chelsea to plant themselves at, a copy of which follows : — " Edwardus Dei gratia Rex Angliae, Doniinus Hibemisp, et Dux Aqoi- taniae, dilectis et fidelibus suis Stephano de Pencestr. Hen. Engolisma, et Henrico le A^'aleys salatem. Sciatis quod assignaviraus tos ad assddend. placias apud Ihame, et eas per certain arrentationem, juxta legalem exten- tam per vos indefaciend. Baronibus et probis hominibus nostris de Wyndi, ediiicand. et inhabitand. joxta discretiones vestras oommittend. Et ideo vobis mandamus, quod ros oranes, vel duo vestrura, quos ad hoc vacare contigerit, in propriis posonis vestris apud Ihame accedatis, et placeas ibidem assideatis et eas prsefads Baronibos edificand. et inhalHtand. com- mittatis in forma pnedicta ; salva turn Dominis immediatis pladarum prsedictarum rationabili extenta cujos Ubet acrse per tos assesss, et ad inhabitan. commisss, juxta discretions vestras pra^ctas sicut prsdictum est. In cujus rei testimonium has literas nostras fieri fecimus patentes. Test, me ipso apud Westm. xxrii die Novonbris, anno Regni nostri de- cimo." — Jeake's Cinque Ports. ABRIDGED CHAKTEB8. " Henry, &c. greeting, We have witnessed am enrolment of letters patent of Edw. 1. in these words — L e. ' Whereas we have provided anew town at Yham in Ueu of our town of Winchelsea, which is in great part submersed by the inundations of the sea, and whose total submersion is feared, and we have resolved to commit the lands and tenements there to the BanHis of the town and port of M'ynchelsee, &c and have willed that the same Barons when they shall have taken their abode their and b^nn to build, shall enjoy the same privileges which they had in the old town or dso- where,' &c. &c. Apud Acton Bumell xiu die Oct. Anno R^;ni nostri undecimo." " We have also witnessed another, &c. in these terms: — Edw. $ie. to John de Cobeham, appoints him with Penchester, EngoUsme and Waleys to assign places at Iham ' Baronibus et probis hominibus nostris de Win- chelsee,' &c 5 March a ' R- xi. " We have also witnessed ' errotulamenta qnorundam breviom ejosdem quondam r^is.' " The king grants to the Barons of the port de W., Iham with the marsh except 10 acres in it which he retains, and which he got from WilL de Grandison and Isabella his wife, and grants the same privileges, &c. the same annual payment to be made as before ; and he commands the sheriff to see them in possession of it. — T. Edm. Comite Comubue, cons. R. apud Westm. xiii die Junii a*. R. sol 16th. " A like directed to the sheriff. A hke command, ' Salamoni de Roff et sociis suis Justic. itinerans.' Also a charter of WilL de Grandison and Sibiila his wife, granting to Edward the manors of Iham and Idenne, ad- vowsons, parks, &c (' excepta ilia terra que fuit H. Bertin') in escambium man. de Dymrok et 46 Ubramm 6 soUdorum et 3 denarium et I quadr. redditus ann, in Dertford, 28 Apr. 15 Edw. IsL' " These king Henry witnesses, &a on the requisition of the now inh*> biUnts. 15 June A\ R. Nostri t\\unU>.''—BttnreU MSS. |i 276 COAST OF SUSSEX. " But that old Winchelsea was abandoned, and the new built so soon ss 1227, as Lombard's marginal note affirms, I cannot believe; nor do I be- lieve it to be wholly till tlie sLxteenth year of that King Edward, for I find by a Memorandum in a book remaining with the Records of the town of Rye these words, tIx. : * * M. D. quod anno Domini Millesimo cdxxxvii" in vigilia sanct> Agathse virginis, submersa fuit villa de Wynchelsee et omnes terrse inter Climesden usq' ; le Vochere de Hethe. Eodem anno erat tanta copia Uadi per univers. Anglise, Scotiie, Wallise, regiones, quod vendebatur quarterium frumenti pro duobus solidis.* Englished thus : * Be it remembred, that in the year of our Lord 1287, in the even of St. Agath the Virgin, was the town of Winchelsea drownetl and all the lands between Climesden and the Vocher of Hithe. The same year was such plenty of com throughout all the Countries of England, Scotland, and Wales, that a Quarter of ^VTieat was sold for two shillings.' " Old Winchelsea being drowned, the inhabitants, by favour of the king and authority of his charters and grants aforesaid, brought the name of Winchelsea to their new plantation at Iham, (which seems to be that which was before a member to Hasting, called Petit Iham, and the rather because Hasting yet claims that part called St. Leonard's,) and there built a town of about forty or thirty-nine squares, called quarters, after the pattern (as is believed) of the old town with spacious streets; adorned, besides the religious houses, with three churches, called St. Giles, St. Leonard's, and St. Thomas the Apostle, of which two former only some of the ruins remain to be seen, and of the latter but part of the andent building, and that no more than some say was intended only for the chancel ; yet all three were standing, as Lambard affirms, within memory when he wrote, which was 1575. Fortified, besides the natural situation on an hill, with walls, part of which, and of three of the gates, are yet standing; that called Pipewell leading to Rye, anotlier called Newgate leading to Hasting, and the other called Strandgate leading to the rivulet running near the foot of the hill, and so into the sea at Rye, formerly called the River of Ree, which the edifying of this new town is supposed to have run up navigable beyond Winchelsea into the coimtry, and at the west side of the town in the place called Pewes Pond, conceived to have made the harbor where ships lay at anchor, which the sea afterwards de- serting, was one cause of the decay of tlie place. But others attribute their decay to the fire of the French in the Reigns of King Richard IL and King Henry VI. yet was it not so much decayed in 1573, when Queen Elizabeth in her Progress gave it a visit, but that beholding the goodly situation, ancient buildings, grave bench of a Mayor, and 12 Jurats in iheir scarlet gowns, and city-like deportment of the people (there being then several gentry), as well as projection of the place, she gave it, as she thought deservedly, the name of " Little London." And it is yet a title of honour to the noble family of the Finches in Kent, who are Earls of Win« chelsea." — Jtake$ Cinque Ports. " The French also played the incendiaries in this town in the rdgn of Richard II. and Henry VI. That it recovered its lasses is evident not WINCH EI.SEA. 277 only from the vast vaults found in every part wheresoever the inhabitants dig, but from its supplying to the exigencies of the state twenty-one ships and five hundred and ninety-six men." — Pennant. In 31 E. ], the king was informed that the banks and ditches in the marsh of AV^inchelsea were so broken by the overflowing of the sea, that the land was in danger of being drowned, and that the king's tenants, by virtue of an ancient composition between them and the other land- holderSj that these lands should be defended by the latter, refused to aid in the repairs, which the others could not afford to do without ; whereupon he ordered an equal and equitable contribution to be levied upon his own lands by his Custos, for which he was to receive an allowance from the Exchequer. In the following year it was represented to him that the old wall towards the east was insufficient, and that there must be a new bank there of 350 perches, which the other tenants there were unable to com- plete, when he ordered another contribution to be made from his omi domain. — Burrell MSS. abridged. Pope Nicholas' Taxation, 1291. £ 8, d, EccHa be' Thome de Winchelsee 10 13 4 Rector h't breve de xxxv*. viidL Eccl'ia br Egidii . . . 6 13 4 non excedit Eccria de Y'h'm . . . 4 13 4 There was a third church, St. Leonard's, which probably in this valuation is identified with Yhm or Iham. FEE FARM RENT. EDWARD I. Translation. " 6 Edward I. — The barons and baihfis of ^Vinchelsea, concerning xui. pounds farm for the town of \Vinchelsea, which the king has granted them, with all its appurtenances and Uberties, to be held by such farm as long as it shall please the king ; so that the same barons, by the hands of tbe baihffs aforesaid for that time, shall pay yearly of tlie said farm, to William Manfe and Johanna his wife, in the name of the king, x. pounds: the remainder of the aforesaid xui. pounds they must pay to the Ex- chequer, viz. one half at the Exchequer of Easter, and another half at the Exchequer of St. MichaeL And tlie date of the commission is the 7th of FehTuarj."—Mag. Rot. 6 Ed. I. Besides the three churches, Winchelsea had convents of black and gray friars, and a Preceptory of St. Anthony. " A brass seal was found at AVinchelsea, with the figures of two monks engravetl thereon, and behind them a pig, the emblem of St. Anthony, with tlic following legend: " Sigilluni Prcceptorie S. Antonii Gratinen or Grcsttnum.' " 278 COAST OF MDSSKX. In Sl Leonard's Church was an image of that saint with a vane in his hand ; and the superstitious believed that by set- ting it the way they wished, they might obtain a favourable wind for their relatives or friends whilst encountering the perils of the ocean. Besides these, tradition reports that there were not less than fourteen or fifteen chapels in the town, some of which have been conjectured to belong to religious houses. What the nature of the trade was from which the town de- rived so much prosperity is uncertain, but circumstances appear to bear out the conjecture that it was principally in French wines. Judging from the descriptions of its ancient site, with its thirty-nine squares, we should think it probable that it con- tained not less than 20,000 inhabitants. THOMAS OF WAXSINOHAM. " Situated it is upon a very high hill, very steep on tliat side which looks toward the sea, or overlooks the road, where the ships lie at anchor ; whence it is that the way leading from that part to the haven goes not straight forward, lest it should, by a steep descent, force them that go down to fall headlong, or them that go up to creep on their hands and knees rather than walk, but, lying sideways, it winds with many crooked tom- ings, to one side or the other." Truly a rather verbose and ludicrous mode of telling us that the road is not perpendicular. Leland, about 1500. " The olde towne of Winchelsey of six or seven years together, fell to a very sore and manifest ruin, by reason of the olde rages of the sea, and totally in the time of the aforesaid six or seven years. In the space of the aforesaid years, the people made suit to the King Edward I. for remedy, and a new plot to set them a town on, and so there was seven score and ten acres limited to the new towne, whereof part is the king's mede, without the town, and part in hanging of the hill. The King set to his help, in beginning and walling New AVinchelsea ; and the inhabitants of Old Win- chelsea took by little, and little, and builded it. The new towne was mefely well furnished, and dayly after, for a few years, increased. But before 20 years were expired, it was twice entered by enemies; first by Frenchmen ; and secondly by Spaniards, who entered by night at Farely, where the high steepel is about three miles from Winchelsea, at whych in- vasion, the town was spoyle- way, and no where else. * * * • • " These writings were compiled by Thomas Hokemam, town dei^ of Winchelsea, a. d. 1557." — Lyont History of Dover. " \ 1 Hen. VII. 1496. In the 17th article of the treaty (called Intercorsiu Magnus) between Henry the Seventh and the Arcliduke Philip, amongst other mayors and aldermen of cities and towns who bound themselves to the Archduke, under the obligation of all their goods present and future, to endeavour, to the utmost of their power, that their sovereign king, Henry the Seventh, shall faithfully keep inviolable this treaty in all its parts. I find Winchelsea mentioned."— J^ffJera, tonu xii., p. 578. — Burrell MSS. Robert de Winchelsea, a celebrated native of this town, was made Archbishop of Canterbury in 1291. He was a learned man and an excellent preacher, and a lover and patron of men of learning : at one time Rector of the University of Paris, and afterwards Chancellor of Oxford. His spirit was so firm, tliat, confiding in the Council of Lyons, he forbade the clergy to pay taxes to the king, without the consent of the pope, and was consequently very harshly used by Edward I., but " overcame all at last by his patience." He refused a cardinal's hat from the pope, but accepted from ^him the pall of Archbishop of Canterbury. *' That it may not be said," ' observes Fuller, " that his bounty was greater than my belief, I give credit thereto." At two different periods, the latter of which was a season of great scarcity, he respectively fed 4000 and 5000 persons. " His charity went home to those who could not come for it, sending to them who were absent, on account of sickness or other unavoidable hindrances. He died at Otterford, the llth of May, Itil.'i, and was buried in his own cathedral. Though he was not canonised by the pope, yet he was sainted by the poor, who used to repair in great numbers to his tomb and pray to him." 282 COAST OK SUSSEX. About the conclusion of Queen Elizabeth's reign, the sea retired from this part of the coast, and the harbour of Win- chelsea became choked up with sand. The town, which once adjoined tiie sea, is now a mile and half distant. From this time its decrease was rapid, and during the last eighty years it has contained less than 1000 inhabitants. In the year 1831, its population was 772. It still retains its shadow of a corpo- ration, but of course lost the right of suffrage to Parliament in the present year. We do not know whether the manufactory still exists which is alluded to in the following extract : " 4 Geo. III. c 37. An Act for better establishing a Manufactory of Cambricks and Silks, or Goods of tbat kind usually known under those Denominations, now carrying on at Winchekea." In the Burrell MSS. is a long inquiry into the rights of the townsmen of Winchelsea: " Sworn by the deponents, Drake Hollingberry, Rd. Hdeman, Jn. Easton, W. Bragg, John Beaver Bragg, Edw. Bennet, and Andrew Baker, at Winchelsea, in y" Co. of Sussex, tlie iJ3d day of May, 1785, before me, Steven Swatland, a commissioner. " Sworn by the dept, Rd. Freeman, at the City of Chichester, in the Co. of Sussex, the 24th day of May, 1785, before me, Wm. Towler,a com- missioner, &c." The Seal of Winchelsea still remains, bearing on one side the representation of a church with niches and statues, and on the other the following inscription in Gothic letters, which has never yet been attempted to be translated. We did request an interpretation of it, but no one could or would give it us ; we have therefore tried one ourselves. Subsequently, how- ever, we have received the following opinion from Mr. Cart- wright, which will be respected by the inhabitants of Sussex. " The inscription on the seal of Winchelsea is very obscure, and I question whether it was understood by him who cut it or by those who used it. Your interpretation seems to express the meaning, as nearly as it can be made out" EGIDIO, THOM.i:, LAUDEM PLEB8 CANTICA PROUE ; N£ BIT IN ANCAaiA, CREX BUDS, AMNE, VIA. To Giles' and Thomas' praise, ye people, chaunting pray ; Lest, in th Angariaii roud cbeir flock be wash'd away. WINCIIELSEA. S83 DESCRIPTION. On the right of the entrance of the town from Hastings is the Friary, an object which we regret that circurastances pre- vented our taking a near view of. The cloisters, which are very considerable, are formed into a handsome dwelling-house; and a chapel, or choir of a church, remains of much elegance, with a serai-octagonal east end, and an arch at the west twenty-six feet in width. The remnant of the church of St. Thomas, in the middle of the town, occupying one of the ancient squares, is only the aisles of the chancel, the nave, tower, and transepts having disappeared, with the exception of some interesting ruins ; but this forms a moderate-sized church, of rich and stately archi- tecture, exceeded by few small specimens in England. The exterior exhibits a fine ruin of the south transept, and part of the tower, one or two flying buttresses at the east end, and some of the finest stems of ivy ever seen. A separate tower, with a ring of bells, stood in the churchyard, but has been re- moved, being considered dangerous, and a small wooden turret mounted on the vestry, at the west end of the north aisle. The interior, which is in the style of the fourteenth century, displays three aisles of equal and handsome elevation, se- parated by three lofty and elegant arches on each side, resting on well-proportioned clustered columns; walls fretted with very bold tracery of arches and columns, some of which are of Sussex marble ; three monuments of Templars, with others of much curiosity, and very good windows, with a lofty and noble one in the centre of the east end, its upper tracery con- taining some figures in stained glass. Two of the monuments of Templars are in the south aisle, the third in the vestry ; one of the former is considered to be scarcely excelled in the solid richness and grace of its semi-octagonal fretted and canopied front. It is finely engraved in Blore's Monumental Remains : he considers it to have probably belonged to Ger- vase Alard, one of a family much distinguished in the history of the town. In the north aisle are the tombs of a monk and 281- «:OAST OF SUSSEX. abbess. The Corporation seat, a very neat one, on the north side of the altar, has rather a curious effect in this apparently village church. Lastly, on the floor of the centre aisle are some curious brasses, one of which has an inscription in very old Gothic characters, which we were prevented distinguishing (though, if we had, there was some chance of their being Aralne to us) ; for, ha\'ing been accidentally benighted, the churdi was nearly dark when we visited it. We therefore copied a manuscript of a former rector, as given to us by our fair as well as intelligent guide (so pleasing a one is not seen every day) from the vestry. " Aired, ql moruit le 15 joarrf Avril, Moocum, gist id: Diea de sahne aitmerd: Q'i pour salme, priera i. jours de pardoa « Aired, who died the I5th day of April, 1354, lies here: God hare mercy on his 60ul: W^Yioever will pray for his soul shall bare fifty d^s* pardon." Leaving Winchelsea, we pass under the Land Gat^ one of the most perfect remaining, and an imposing structure, and see through it a flat resembling the Isle of Ely, with the town of Rye in front looking like a considerable fortress, on the sum- mit of a hilL One of the last Martello towers on this part of the coast is on our left; beyond which is Camber Ccutie^ erected by Henry VIII. at an expense of i?26,000, but soon neglected, and fallen into decay. Its walls are extensive and of irregular form, between polygonal and circular, but uninterest- ing in their appearance. The vaults in the interior are said to be very perfect. The view of Winchelsea, on looking back, is very pretty, with its extensive elevation surrounded by green upright banks, like ramparts, and fine trees, with occasional glimpses of ruins seen through their foliage. BTK. 285 RYE. HISTORY. Ryk has been conjectured by some to be the Partus Namu of the geographer Ptolemy. It is termed in ancient Latin JUpOf and its Enghsh name is imagined to be either derived from the Norman rive, bank, Saxon rhee, or British rhy, a river or ford. So St. Mary Over-rys, Southwark, viz. over the river, with respect to London. Its authentic modem history commences in the year 893 : at the latter end of that year a fleet of 250 sail brought an army of Danes from France to the coast of Kent, where, landing near Rye, they seized the fort of Apuldore. Rye was given with Winchelsea by Eldward the Confessor to the church of Fiscamp, and exchanged afta-- wards, as previously related. In 1162 William de Ipres, Earl of Kent, died, who built the tower here, still standing, whidi is termed Ipres' Tower. The town was walled round by Edward III. " Rye aPs Westrie, wch is so called for difference sake from Easirie, a town and hundred within the lath of St. Augustine in Kent." — Lambard'g Perambulation. Pope Nicholas* taxation, 1291. £ s. Eccl'ia de Rya . • . .50 Vicar' deRya . . . . 10 d. " Rye, one of the ancient towns who have long enjoyed eqtui privilegea with the Cinque Ports, in Latin Ripa, in French Rive, stands on the edge of Sussex towards Kent ; is a fair well-built town, pleasantly sitiiated oo the north side of an hill, wch affords a delightful prospect towards the sea; fortified and walled about in Edward the Third's reign; is at present governed by a mayor and jurats ; is furnished with a commodious haven, and two markets on Wed', and Sat\, wedJy ; but the former is almost quite disused, and the latter affords little but provisions. It was anciently in great reputation, being well fortilicd b) W"". d'Ipres, Earl of Kent; the prison of the town is a tower, wch still bears his name. This town eqjoya the great privileges and immunities of the Cinque Port^ It hath aent 286 (OAST OF SUSSEX. burpesses to Pari', from 42 E. S; but in the following times was incon- siderable. When Edw. 3. walled it about, and AVinchelsea decayed, it bqran again to recover, and, by a lucky accident, flourisheed by a sluice about 6 miles above the town, and another about 3 miles, it is now almost ruined by the mud and sand, brought into it by the spring tides, and stopped from running out by those sluices. " The fishing trade is the principal support of this town, viz. of mackarel and herring in their proper season (the first the fishermen call spotting, the other flewing), which are accounted the best of their kind which are caught on these coasts : the rest of the year they catch flat-fish by trauling, which are carried away by the Rippiers (fishermen of the place, so called from Ripa, the bank it stands upon) to London market-" — Burrell MSS. " Rye or Rie, sometimes w^rote Rhie, in Latin Ria and Rhia. I cannot conclude to derive its name from Ilie, the corn so called (as Rieton in Warwickshire, in the opinion of Dugdale), because as the soil thereabouts is not very proper to bear it, so the people there are generally averse to it. Nor will I affirm that the name came from the rivulet Ree, before re- membered in \7inchelsea, nor from Rhe or Rey, sometime used for river ; though the river of llother on the east, and the creek of the sea Uke a river running up on the west into the country between Peasmarsh and Udimer, called yet Fillingham water, from a farm on Peasmarsh side which it washeth, meeting together with tlie said Ree, and running out into the sea at the south east (and formerly more south) side of the town, might be sup|)osed to have first occasioned the name. But it seems to me rather to take the name from the British word Rhy, signifying a ford, or as some say a Bay ; in reference to tlie former, importing the place where the Rivos of Rother and Ree were yet fordable ; and to the latter, the situation of the town in the bottom or middle of the bay made by the sea; between the Clifi" at Beechy and those at Folkstone, from whence the sea over against Rye, and near the shore, is still called Rye Bay. This ancient town is compact as a little city, stored with buildings, and consisting of several streets, as the lower or longer street (in which standeth the Grammar School built by Thomas Peacock, Gent, one of the jurats of the town. Anno 1636, and by his will. Sept 10, 1638, deviseil to tliat use; and by order thereof, and settlement of his executors, enjoying the yearly revenue of thirty-five pounds), besides which are the middle street, the butchery KYE. ig7 (where is the Market-place with the Town Hall) and the Watch-bell. street, with some cross streets running from one to the other. It is bulk on a little hill, now wasted, on the south west, south, south east, east, and north east sides of the town, by the flux and reflux of the sea, but especially on the two latter, where hath been washed away some streets, the Badding's Gate and wall leading therefrom to the Land Gate ; yet the compass of the town may be about two hundred and seventy-one rods : beautified with a large Church, called St. Mary, the goodliest edifice of that kind in the Counties of Kent and Sussex, the Cathedrals excepted : Inclosed with walls, as Cambden says, in the time of Edw. III. There are yet standing the Land Gate, called sometimes the North Gate, leading into the Country towards Kent; the Postern Gate leading to the new Conduit; the Strand Gate or South Gate opening towards AVinchelsea, where the old harbour was, though now more frequented on the east side of the town ; the Gun gar- den gate adjoining to Ipres tower, built by AVilliam de Ipre, Earl of Kent, and from him so called, afterwards purchased by the corporation, of Mr. Newbury, about the 10th year of king Henry VII., and used to keep court in till the building of the Town Hall aforesaid, whence it got the name of the Court House, and was then converted into a prison. And besides the chapel of St. Clare, (now used for a powder-house,) the chauntry of St Nicholas, the chancel whereof is still kept for an ammunition houses whereto it was converted, anno 17 Elizabeth, had a monastery of the Friers Heremites of St. Augustines, the chapel whereof is yet standing, erected anno 16 Henry VIII., and dissolvetl by him shortly after with the first dissolution, in the twenty-seventh year of his reign, because the revenues were not two huntlred pounds per annum, so it had but a short standing, for that it was not elder than the sixteenth year of that king, I gather from a passage I found in the records of this town, in that year, which was thus : " Eodem anno, silicet, quarto die Septembris, erect, fuit tegument fabri* cae fratrum heremitarum Sancti Augiistini infra viUam praedictam, ex impensis cujusdam AVillielmi Marshe, Agricolse : " I. e. In the same year, that is to say, the fourth day of September, was erected the roof of the fabrick of the Friars Heremits of Saint Augustin, within the town aforesaid, at the costs of one William Marshe, Hu»> ban dm an. " The town is of beautiful prospect to look upon any way, a convenient passage into Normandy, famous for fishing, as good fish having been brought to market (before the French spoiled the fishing grounds) as any where in England, and yet the fish keep the name of the town, as Rye Herring, to sell the better in London. An ancient town it is called, and so is, and with its sister town, or twin rather, AVinchelsea, hath very near shared equally in vicissitudes and misfortunes ; for in the time of Edward the Confessor, they were both given to the abbot and monks of Fischamp, (as before note 1569." Lansd. MS. 67,p.SS. " To Lord Burleigh. «• Our duties to your honor most humbly remembered. So it is if it please your honor that the bearer hereof, an Italyan, now of late havenige p usctl your haven and harbour of Rye, and all the indraughts sea marits and water spryngs nere to the same, he hath faithfully promysed that within fewe years he will make the saide haven and harbor of Rye (the Camber onlye excepted) more servyceable than it hath been at any tyme heretofore, w'ch worke he wolde be content, to b^ynne in the springe of this next yere, if it may stand with the good pleasure of your honor and of the rest of the lords of her majesty's most honorable privy councelL AVTierin we most humbly desire your honorable furtherance to her raatr to- werde such worke. as your honor shall finde the same to be profitable and commodious for the most parte of the rtalme useing the seas. And also to liarbor her mat' shipps when cause requireth and to maintain the pro- vysion of fyshe, wherewith her ma'' and divers of great honor have been from hence well served. Towerde thatl van cement of w'ch worke your honor shall iinde us most reddye to thuttermost of our abihties. But herin the Italyen desireth her maj" privilege that duringe his lyffe none do attempt to perform or amend any havens or creeks in England by that meancs that he shall do this worke by, the same not beinge put in use by nvK. 203 any other heretfore. And thus referringe ourselves and the estate of this our towne and countrye adjoyning to your honorable consideration, we most humbly take our leave. At Rye, the vii"" of December, 1591. Your honor's most bounden the maior and juratts of Rye. Robert Carpenter, maior. Robert Bett, Wyllyam Ratcliff, Wylliam Colkyn, Hen. Gaymer, William Didsbury, Thomas Colbrans, John . . . ." In the Lansdowne MSS. is, 1586, a letter of the Mayor of Rye, acquaint- ing Lord Cobham with the landing of Julio Marino, a suspicious person. 56 Lansdowne MS. p. 62, " Right Honorable, we thought it our duties with that convenient speed we myght to signifie what news our passengers have brought from Deipe. Three of them came in this last midnight tyd^ bavinge byn longer there, w'ch gave us cause to suspect that they were there stayed. They sale that the Captainne of Deipe came unto them, beddinge them despatche and get them soone to helpe and defende their country (as they tooke it) in a mockinge looke. They reporte for truth that there is at Deipe about twelve great shippes of the burden between vii and viij tunnes a maldnge ready, with all the'r speede that may be, besides divers other smaller vessels. And that there is also eighty sailes of shippes in a redynes at Newehaven (Havre de Grace), and that the en'myes is come to New- haven with twenty thowsand men. " It may please your honor to be also advertised that our towne at this present is but weakely manned with English men, for there is called from thence three hundred and fifty four, to serve hir Majestic at the seas, and not of the worst men. And Tenterden beinge a member to our towne is able to supply our want in some reasonable measure, if they be not called from it, which if they should, they and we leike to be in great distress, for that the country adjoining uppon us is called to serve in other places. Wherefore our humble sute to your Honor is, that it wold please you tostande so good Lo' unto us as to write your lines to the bayliffand jurats of Tenterden, that they have their people in a readynes whensoever the maior and jurats of Rye shall sende for them, whereunto we know they will be very willinge if so from your they be commanded, ffor with your honorable favor toward us, we shall be bounden to pray for your good Lo. And so most humbly we leave your honor to the custody of the Almightie, from Ry this first of August, 1588. Your honor's most humble at commandment the maior and jurats of Rye. — To the right honorable our very good Lord the Lo Burleigh Lo High treasurer of England. Lansdowne MSS. p. 27. C-^ damaged document of about 34 page*.) " Articles to be mynystered unto such persons as are to be examyned touching the abuse comytted at Rye by certain fyshermen, in the month of Maye, 1582, agaynst William Haynes, Her Majesties purveyor for i fish, as followeth." And examinations tb :re taken. Queen Elizabeth's Progresses. " Thence to Rye, where the Queen remained three days, and conferred the honour of knighthood on Thomas Guilford, Thomas Walsinghara, and Alexander Culpepper, Esqs." 294- COAST OF SUSSEX. " Venit Riara, maritimuin in Sussexia oppidum atque portum ; ad quem ante ilium diem nunquam Ke^em aut Ileginam pervenisse ridicule aiunt ; elapsoque ibi triduo, &c' " Camber Castle, near Rye Captain's fee per day, 9s; Porter's, 6d; Soldier's 9, le peece 6 ; Gunner's 17, le peece 6. — Thomas Wilford, captain, 1580. (MS Knight)"— Pec*'» Desiderata Curiosa, ind book, p. It, a. Burrell MSS. Jeake, p. 57. " To the right worshipful!, our loving friends, the Maior and Aldennen of Hull " Right Worshipfull,— With our due and hearty commendations we salute you, Whereas of late we wrote our letters to you in the behalf of our honest neighbour and combaron, Edward Beale, touching certain duties ye required of him, which he denies to pay, being a freeman of the ports; he hath made relation unto us of your courteous usage of him, for which we thanke you, being ready to requit it to any of your people, as occasion shall serre. But yet he advertiseth us, that ye stand in doubt, that we be not free of Anchorage and Juttage, and hath prayed us to certify you therein. These are therefore to signify to you for truth, that neither we nor any of onr ancestors, have ever paid any anchorage within this realme, for it is one of the chiefest things whereof we are and always have been free . And for juttage, we never heard that it hath been demanded of any of the ports untill now. For whereas, we are by our charter free of terrage ; if we pay anchorage we cannot be terrage free ; for groundage and anchorage is within the compass of that word terrage, for there is seldom anchor hold without ground *. And for juttage, we cannot be free of ryvage, if we be compelleil to pay for juttage; for to be free of ryvage is to arrive fredy and depart freely without any exaction. Besides the general words of oar charter is, that we shall have all hberties and quietances throughout the realroe of England, &c. ; and our hberties are such, as we are free of all taxes, exactions, and demands, whatsoever, except any act of parliament bind us thereunto. Thus having briefly certified you in what sort we have ever hitherto been free from such duties paying, as you now demand of the said Edward Beale, and praying you to deal so friendly with him, as he may enjoy the hberties of a freeman of the ports, as his aunceston before him have done, " We commit you, &c. " Your Worship's loving friends, " June 20, 1580. « The Maior and JuraU of Rye." * This if) a gravely ironical, and, certainly, well grounded argument. It is something like " The Spanish fleet I cannot see, becatue It is not yet in sight !" — Ed. KYE. £95 Addressed " To the Rt. Honble. our tin^mlar good Lord, the Ixtrd Zowck St. Mawre and Cantelupe, Lord Warden of the Cinipte Ports and their Members : one of the Lords of His Alajesty's imost honorable Priry Counsel of Greate Brittaine. " Rt Honble. — Our most hanible daty rememlKed, the experience of your honorable disposition, care, and desire of good, towards this our poor decaied town, hath moved us, yet, once again, to make known to your good lordship, our wants and miserable pocH- estate, as nnto oar only stay and refuge, next under God and his majestie ; and whereas we hare here- tofore been, by reason of a harbour in some trade and commerce by sea, enabled to bear aboute the charge and maintenance of this towne ; but now (although we have long sewed for help in this case) is our harhoor so decaied, that all trade hath forsakm ns, and besides the importable diarge in defending the rage of the sea, from eating up our waies to the townc^ and maiming the jutties and places of refuge, for oar few fisher-boats yet remaining, with the extreme poverty of our fishormen, who, by reason of the great spoyle of fish and fishing places so decayed, that hundreds of them are ready to b^g and starve for want, and many of them, fbnakin|; the towne, have left their wives and diildren to be parish charge, and tfaoee of trades, as^ God knows, there are verie fewe^ and they so burdened and surcharged by continual sesses and taxes, we having no revenewes, nor other means to maintain the towne, are most of them determined rather to seek other dwellings, than here by such extraordinary impositions and charges, to decay and impoverish themselves, whseby it is Ukdy that in short tyme, this towne, that hath been not long since, of good respect and importance, is now in posabilitie (if some gracious aspect shine not upon it) to be quite depopulate and abandoned : and whereas of late, by order from the right honble. the Lords of his Majesties IVivy Council, directed unto us by your honorable commandment, we are appointed to that pro- vision of powder, lead, match, with carriages and mounting of ordenance» that formerly, in the late Queen's tyme, this towne was enjoined unto when her majesties ordenance were here, which now are taken hence long sinoe^ by commission ; as also then the towne was in prosperitie and abflitie ; but now, alas ! our miserable povertie is such, though it be for that end and purpose, wherein with willing hartes under his majesties and yoor honorable commandement, we are ready to spend our hves; yet, notwith- standing, we beseech a due consideration may be had of the present state of this towne, and the inabilitye thereof, most humUy praying yoor honor- able and most gracious favor, in consideration of the premises, to oom- miserate and pity this our poor towne, so far forthe as to manifest and declare the state thereof to the right honorable Board, that thereby aome manner of relief may be extended unto us to relieve oar present wants, and especially of the said proportion ; in all which we referr oorselTO to yoor lordship's high wisdom, not doubting of your honorable furtherance, and continueing alwaies good lord unto us, unto whose protection we humbly betake ourselves, always praying for your lordship's long life, with encieaee of many honors.— From Rye, the third day of ^larch, I61& " Your honor's most humbly at oommandm', " The Maior and JoraU at Rye." S96 COAST OF SUSSEX. Addressed " To the Rt. Honhle. my tinguJar ffood Lord, the Lord Zouch, Lord Warden of the Cimpie Ports, and oi.e of the Lord* of Hi* Alajesty* most honorable Privy CotuueL " Rt. HoaUe. — My humble dutie rernembred onto yoar good lordship, may it ple»e your honor to vouchsafe to be advertised, that the hundred pounds which, by your honor's and your lordship's commandment, was of late taxed and leried in the portes, and their members, for and towards the suppressinxr of the pirates of Argire * and Tunis, latdy came to my hands ; and I hare taken order that one Mr. Fortrey, a merdiant, dwelling in Gracechurdi Street, London, shall pay the same when and where jonr lordship shall command. " I have received advertisement from the said ports and townes, that at this present they find this charge heavy to them, especially from Dover, Rie, and H'isdielsea, by reason of the little means they have to maintain that number of ships, which they must find when cause shall require, the trade of the ports bang generally taken away, (for remedy wheron, their humble suit is yet depending before their and your honorable good lord- ships) whose present poor estate they hope that most honorable Board will 80 oommisserate, as that they may be permitted to use that privilege of free trade, wherein they never were interrupted, until of very late years, by the special sute and means of those merchant adventurers of London that seek to enrich themselves by the decay of his majesty's ancient and defen- sible ports. " They have entreated me, as well in respect of their forwardness in this service, as also in reganl of the great services by them and their ancestors, heretofore done, and hereafter to be performed, to be an humble suitor to your honour by my letter, to be pleased to continue your lordship's accus- tomed favor towards them in their said humble suit, for their said free trading, whereby such shippes (as to their great charges they have lately builded), do not decay in harbours for want of meanes to employ them; and thus having imboldened myself to perform what I was desired to writer I humbly take leave, and ever rest, as I am bounden, " Your honor's, at all commandment, " Wm. Ward. « Dover, this 27th of Dec 1619.' Transcribed from the MS. of Sir Charles Hedges, relative to the Cinque Ports, marked 50 No. 291 (penes Wm. Madiam, LL.D. Advocate rf Drs. Commons, 1771.)— ^itrrrtf MSS. RYE. Baila and vessels returned I4th Oct. 16126: — 16 barques from 14 to 40 tons burthen, amounting altogether to 295 tons. No gunnen, pilote, or ordnance. Mariners, fishermen 66.— Burrell MSS. Thi* is one of the old modes of spelling that wotd. <• Protp. Where was she bom? ArieL Sir, in Aigier." UYR 297 HASTINGS. 28 barques from 18 to 40 tons, making, in the whole, . . 670 tons No ordnance. Mariners, sailors, and fishermen, 127. No gunners. No pilots for the Engtish coast as masters. — BurreU MSS. DESCRIPTION. The approach to Rye is picturesque, from its being at high- tide nearly surrounded by water : the low and massive centre tower of the church with a pointed roof, and Ipres' tower, are conspicuous objects. The harbour was much improved by a new channel, cut by a Dr. Pape, vicar of Penn, in this vicinity, who also threw a dam across the old channel, which is considered to be a work of great ingenuity. Ships of 200 tons' burthen can come up to the north quay of the town, one mile and a half from the sea. George I. was compelled to put into this harbour in a tempestuous season of the year 1725, being unable to make that of Dover, on his return from Holland ; but had some difficulty in getting to land, and the large ships were unable to follow him. " The Port of Rye extends from Jewry's Gut (about two miles to the eastward of this harbour), to Beachy Head ; and Hastings and Eastbourne are creeks of this Port. " The imports are principally in Dutch cheese, timber frcmi Norway and America, rags for manure from Hambro', ^gs, poultry, rape and linseed cake from France; and this having lately been made a bonding-port for wine, some has been imported from Boulogne. ** The exports are not of any magnitude, except in wool, large quantities of which have been exported, within the last two years, to France and Ostend •." The population of Rye, in 1831, was 3715, an increase of 1500 since the year 1801. It loses one member by the Reform Bill. • Obligingly communicmted by Mr. W. Watson, Collector of Customs at Rye. S98 COAST OF SUSSEX. Rye is at the eastern extremity of the coast of Sussex, and more than 80 miles from Chichester. Beyond it, at the distance of a mile or two, is Kent, " the dvilest place in all this isle." The ground was there pre-occupied, or our humble topo- graphical labours might have been more successful than in the county of Sussex ; less, hitherto, were impossible. Rye church is popularly considered to be one of the largest in England ; but if it be in the first class, it is decidedly not near the summit. It is described as having a nave one hundred feet long, and chancel sixty, with a tower between them ; but the tower should have been included in the length of the nave ; the whole interior length is 161 feet. The chancels, indeed, of which there are three of equal height and length, GO feet in the latter, and in width 28 feet in the centre, and 25 in the other two, are decidedly grand ; and if the sides were well kept, and laid open to the centre, would form one of the finest tiers of aisles in England. The transept, which is very slightly projecting, is rather more than 80 feet in length*. The architecture throughout is mixed early Gothic and Nor- man, or Saxon ; it must be, of course, a decided mistake to suppose that the whole of this church was destroyed in the fourteenth century. Its principal curiosity is the great Clock, which unvarying tradition asserts to have been taken from the Spanish Armada, and given to the town by Queen Elizabeth. It has a very large dial, with quarter-jacks, like those formerly at St. Dunstan's, and bells, but these are said to have been subse- quently added. The church has been considerably mutilated, and disfigured with bad windows ; still it has some grand fea- tures. In the south chancel are some windows similar to those in the western aisles of Westminster Abbey ; at the east end, one very fine one, and a very elegant flying buttress. The nave is decently fitted up, and has a small organ at the west end. The north chancel is in a state of lumber, with engines &c., and has most of its windows blocked up ; still it has a • In the north transept is a Norman arch, in the wall, with a chain moulding ; a very curious if not alntoat unique vmriety. «VE. 299 grand, though wild, appearance, and the floor is thick set with brasses ; the south chancel is completely desecrated, and used as a work-room in aid of the poor-house. The centre chancel alone is well kept, and divided from the sides, but the three bold arches and pillars of each are visible. Passing under the tower, the long gilt-lead pendulum of the Spanish clock swings a few feet above the head of the spectator. Over the arch are the arms of Queen Anne, and a lofty and rather stately altar-piece appears to be of the same aera ; its communion table is of old mahogany finely inlaid, with richly carved legs, and has been conjectured to be also a spoil of the Armada, an idea which is deserving of notice. In a vault in the south aisle were dis- covered several stone balls, but these have not the high meed assigned to them of that of Hastings ; which, like ** little Dicky," in Kenilworth, seems to be ** all the better for its accidents ; " they are supposed to have been merely propelled by " villanous saltpetre from the bowels of the earth." We ascended to view the clock, but observed nothing remarkable in its works, which are entirely of iron ; the hour-weight is three cwt. From the top of the tower may be seen the shore of Boulogne. It contains eight bells, six of them old. We here saw an exemplification of the adage, that ** necessity is the mother of invention.'" The ringing loft is immediately under the bell-chamber, and the sound was consequently deafening and perplexing. The expedient was adopted of covering the floor under the bells with turf a foot thick. This has been so completely successful that the sound is almost entirely lost, Ipres' tower is now the town gaol ; it is in good preserva- tion, but an ugly building : near it is, or was, a battery. The remains of the Friary are now used as a store-house. Rye is a tolerably built town, but rather dull. The school- house is a curious old brick build'mg, with pilasters, and other ornaments of the same, and an antique dial. The market- house, town-hall, and assembly-room, is a spacious and very neat building of brick, on pillars, much superior in appearance to that at Hastings. 300 CO\ST OF SOSSEX. CINQUE PORTS. After coDsiderable difficulty and delay we have obtained access to a copy of ** Jeake''s History of the Cinque Ports," a thin folio, which, for what reason we know not, is of the utmost possible rarity, and consequent value; and the reader has many passages from it transferred for his information into the present work. We believe that there are not six copies of the volume to be met with in the counties of Kent and Sussex, in which the Ports lie, and it is not to be found in many of the best public libraries. Its great value consists in its having been written about one hundred years back, before many of the documents which it contains or refers to were lost : and subsequent to that period, the customalSf Sec have been kept with such jealous care that they are not seen by any one once in a quarter of a century. Three only of the ports were incorporated before the con- quest by Edward the Confessor, as Lord Coke supposes ; and from the mention of Dover, Sandwich, and Romney as pri- vileged ports in Doomsday Book, it is supposed these were the three. Hastings and, it is supposed, Hythe were added by the Conqueror, who, from a particular regard for the former, as the ceat of his victory, made it the head and chief port. Their charters were confirmed by Henry 1. and £dward I. : the most important one contained privileges supe- rior to those enjoyed by the city of London, and was anterior to theirs by nearly 100 years. They had two great courts, the lesser one, called the Court of Guestling or Brotherhood, which was held annually on the Tuesday after St. Margarets day, at New Romney, and consisted of seven delegates from each of the Cinque Ports and the ancient towns of Winchelsea and Rye, with a speaker and other officers. Some resemblance of thb court is, we believe, still kept up in issuing the sum- CINQUK FOKT8. 301 nions annually, though, we believe, a full court has not been held for the last sixty years, though attempts were made to put in force the due formalities in 1811 and 1822. The great court for all the ports and members, called that of Shep- K/ay, was held by the king's summons before the lord warden at Shepzcay Cross, near Hythe; this is now only formally convened on the election of a new warden. The principal civil prerogatives of the ports, in addition to their naval jurisdiction, are the returning members to parlia- ment from each, and the service of carrying, by their barons, the canopies over the king and queen at the coronation, with certain privileges and hcMiours thereto belonging. The extent of the lord warden's jurisdiction is fiY>m Red Cliff, near Seaford, to Shoe Beacon, near the Isle of Sheppey, in Essex, and he has free warren in a considerable district in Kent. The arms of the Cinque Ports are ** per pale gules and azure, three demi-lions or, impaling azure, three semi-ships argent."" In 5 Henry VIII- it was ordered, that ** everie per- son who goeth into the navy of the Portis shal have a cote of white coty o with a red crosse and the arms of the Portis under- neath ; that is to say, the halfe lyon and the halfe ship.'" And at a brotherhood held in 1603, at the time of the coronation of James I., it was ordered that the dress of the canopy- bearers should be " a scarlet gowne downe to the ancle, citi- zen's fashion, faced crymson * satten, Gascaine hose, crymson silk stockings, crymson velvett shoes, and black velvett capes.* We regret exceedingly that time and space prevent our entering into a minute account of the Cinque Ports, as we have seldom found any history so interesting. More extended par- ticulars will be found in Hasted's Kent and Lyon's Dover, and in that very judicious work Moss''s Hastings. As this gentleman confined his views to a much less ample field, be had greater opportunities of enlargement. Several extracts from Jeake will also be found in the latter ; * Crimson was originally the name of a stuff, as we read of "jmrpk *md white crimo$in.''—mEiL so^ COAST OK SUitSKX. ours, which are principally different, and therefore novel, are as follows: PORTS* DOOMSDAY BOOK *. " 'WTiich I so call to distinguish it from the other, &c &c. in imitation of wliich this latter seems to have been made, containing, besides the whcde tenures and orders of the Castle of Dover, the names of the Cinque Ports, two ancient towns and their members of old, with the services they were to perform, and the authority and custom of the Court of Shepway, with the articles inquirable there, which book was kept with the records of the castle till the late times, though now, as I have heard, removed and missing. In this book as aforesaid, the several proportions of the shipping respeo- tively to be found by the ports and members is set down, as by the memo- randum hereof among the records of the town of Rye, foL 55 of their old custovial, and specified as an ordinance of the king, touching the serrioe of shipping, anno Domini, 1229." Doomsday. " Isti sunt portus R^is Anglie habentes libert&tes qnas alii portos Don habent, viz. prout plenius palet in cards inde factis." " Hastyng. — Ad quam pertinent tanquam membra onus vicos Utus maris in Seford, Peivinse, Bulwareth, Hydonye, Iham, Bekysbom, Gr&- necha, et Northye. Servicia inde debita Domino R^ xxi naves et in qualibet nave xxi homines cima uno garlione \ qui didtur gnrnieL" " Wynchelsey et Rye, tanquam membra.— Viz'. Wynchdsey x navesi. Rye quinque naves, cum hominibus et gartionibus at supra." • • • • ' ** Sum' navium lvii naves ; sum' hominum in eisdem mcxl homines, ex- cept' gartionibus; sum' gartionnm lvu; sum' to'" personarum mcxcvu person se." " Servicium quod Barones Quinque Portuum recognoscunt facere R^ ad summon' servicii per xl dies ante exit. sciL per annum si contigerit, est per XV dies ad custum eorum proprium ita quod primus dies computetor a die quo vela navium erexerent ad sigland, ad partes ad qnas toidere debent, et ulterius, quara diu Rex voluerit, ad custodienJ, R^is ordinaL An» Domini ii.cc».xxix*." •' These are the ports of the King of England, having liberties whidi other ports have not, that is to say, as more fully appeareth in the charten thereof made." " Hasting. — To which pertaineth as members, one town on the sea shore, in Seaford, Pevensea, Bulvaridie, Hydney, Iham, Beaksbome, Grencfa, and Northye. The services thereof due to our Lord the King 2 1 ships, and in each ship 1 1 men, with one boy, who is called a gromet ^" • That there was such a book, and so called, appears plainly. Pat. 34 Edw. III. part I. Mem. 46 in the Tower, &c. &r Jeake. f Query Garfonf French Ed. } Grom, Duuh for a {.tripling, from whence our word Groom, — Jeukt. CINaUE PORTS. 303 " Winclielsea and Rye as members. — That is to say, Winchelsea 10 ships and Rye 5 ships, with men and boys as above." • • • • " Sum of the ships, 57 ships; sum of the men in them, 1140 men, ex- cept boys ; sum of the boys, 57 ; sum total of the persons, 1197 persons." " The services which the Barons of the Cinque Ports acknowledge to do to the King, at the summons of the service by 40 days before the going out, viz. : yearly if it shall happen for 15 days, at their own cost, so that tlie first day be reckoned from the day on which they shall hoist up the sails of the ships to sail to the parts to which they ought to go, and further as long as the King will, to be kept by ordinance of the King. An* Do- mini 1229." Mr. Jeake observes that the ten ships found by Winchel- sea and the five by Rye, must be taken in part of the twenty- one from Hastings, otherwise there would be seventy-two in the whole. LORD WARDEN. The present is that distinguished military character, his Grace the Duke of Wellington, who is also Constable of Dover Castle, an office which has been for some time annexed to the former, though the warden of the Cinque Ports has a resi- dence at Walmer Castle, near DeaL " Warden, now commonly stiled the Lord Warden, because oftentimes the wardens have been of nobility, and sometines princes of the blood royal. It is an office none less than a knight ought to occupy. This great officer or Limenarcha as Cambden observes, was an imitation of the same officer, which the Romans* esUbhshed for defence of our coasts, and railed Littoris Saxonici, or Tractus Marilinii, Nomes, who had the charge of nine sea-ports, and it is no doubt, but these Cinque Ports and Towns were under some special government in the time of the Saxons, necessity so requiring, though guardian, from whence warden in plain English, keeper, and in Latin, custos, imports the name imposed by king William the con- queror : yet may it not thence be concluded, that the office was bom with him, seeing his design was to have altered the whole language he found here, by enjoyning the teaching here of his own French tongue to chil- dren, the grammar in schools, the laws and pleadings thereof in this tongue, shortly after his settlement in the throne. These wardens there- fore, being set for the defence of the ports and coasts on which they are, and as the chief commanders of their ships they were to furnish to sea, gave them as well the name of admirals, in respect of their office as to the sea, as wardens, with reference to their care in keeping and preserving the liberties of the ports at land, both as mediators between their sovereigns • At least under Constantine the Great, who did, amongst others, appoint such officers, and some say the office was executed under Valentinian by Nec- taridius. vid. Selden's Alaredausum.— JieaA^. 30i COAST OF SUSSEX. and them, if differences shoidd arise there ; and as judges among them, and between them and others, to guard and defend them against the unjurt encroachments of foreigners upon their rights and jurisdictions, and to determine such differences as might grow irreconcilable (without an inter- posing power) and correct the errors and irregularities in judgment as might happen among themselves ; for as to the former, be ia the imme- diate officer of the king to the ports, and hath the retiun of his writs that run there, they being directed to him ; and as to the latter, the causes were heard, and judgment concerning them given in the old court of Shep- way, and courts of chancery and admiralty, which since frequented have withdrawn to the latter most of the matters determinable in the former, and drawn too much obscurity thereon. That the warden of the ports might have a place of residence near the ports, and a seat suitable to his quality, is the castle of Dover committed to his charge and custody, of which he is also entitled the constable, as hereafter doth appear. And though I will not say, but anciently they might serve for titles of honour and office, to several persons, yet long since the constableship of Dover castle, and wardenship of the Cinque Ports, have both been conjoined in one person." HJISTINGS WITH ITS MEMBE38. " Hastyng est capitalis Portus, cujus membra sunt, videlicet, Wynchel- see, Rie, Leucata de Pevense et Bulvarheth, in Com. Sussex, Bekesbome, et Greneche, in Com. Kane, qui Portus cum suis membris predictis debent* invenire ad som' R^s viginti et unam naves, et in qualibet nave debent+ esse viginti et unum homines, fortes, apti, bene armati, et apparati ad ser- vicia Regis, ita tamen quod somonitio inde fiat ex parte Regis per quad- raginta dies ante. £t cum predicts naves et homines in illis existentes ad ilium locum venerint, ad quem fuerunt sommoniti, morabuntur ibidem in servicio Domini Regis per quindccira dies ad custus suos proprios. Et si Rex servicio Ulorum pK)st predictos quindecim dies indiguerit ; seu ipsos ibidem amplius moravi voluerit, erunt naves ills cum hominibus in illis existentibus in servicio R^s morantes ad custus Regis quamdia Regi placuerit, videUcet, magister capiet sex denarios per diem, et quilibet aliorum capiet tres denarios per diem. CORONATION SERVICE. £t quoad servicia in coronatione, &c. continentur in eodem libro sic : Anno visesimo* Hcgis Henrici filii Regis Johannis coronata Regina Alia- nora, filia Hugonis, Comitis Provincise, apud Westmonasterium dominica ante purificationem beate Marie, inter alia invenitur sic: Pannum vero de Cerico§ quadratum purpureum quatuor hastis de argentatis, sustentatum cum quatuor campanellis argenteis et deauratis idtra Regem incedentem quocunque incederct, gestabant Barones Quinque Portuum, asdgnati ad quamhbet hastam quatuor pro diversitate Portuum ne videretur Portus Portuum preeferri. Consimiliter unum pannum sericum supra R^nam post Regem incedentem. Quos quidem pannos suos esse de jure rendi- cant, et illos obtinuerunt in Curia, licet Marchiones de Marchia WaJIic, • Debet. f Debet- \ Vicesinio. J Serico. — JeaAt, CINQUE PORTS. 305 viz. Juhanncs filius Alani, Radulphus de Mortuo man, Johannes de Mo- nemne, et Al'alterus de Clyfford, nomine marchis jus marchis esse dicenmt hastas inveniendas et illas deferendas. Sed quodammodo friToIom repu- tabatur. Asserebant autem Barones de Qiiinque Portubus jus sanm Bedendi in mensis Regiis eadem die a dextris Domini R^is, et iu sede- runt Compertum est etiam in quodani quatemo libro ad scaccariom Aono trigesimo priroo dicti Regis Edwardi filii 1ieaiid.''—J^eake. " Hasting is an Head-port*, whose members are, viz. Windidsea, Rye, the Lowey of Pevensey, and Bulvarhithe, in the county of Sussex, Beaks- borne and Grenche, in the county of Kent, which port, with its members, aforesaid, ought to find at the summons of the king twenty and one ships,'^ and in every ship there ought to be twenty and one men, strong, apt, wdl- armed, and preparedt for the services of the king ; so that the summons thereof be made of the part of the king by forty days before : and when the said ships, and men in them being, shsdl come to that place to wfaidi they were summoned, they shall tarry there in the service of onr lord the king, by fifteen dales, at their own costs ; and if the king shall need tfaeir service after the aforesaid fifteen dales, or will them there longer to tarry, the ships, with the men in them, being in the service of the king, shall be abiding at the costs of the king, as long as it shall please the king, viz. the master shall take sixpence per day, and the constable^ sixpence per day, and every one of the others ^all take three-pence per day." " And as to the service in the coronation, &c it is contained in the same booke thus :— in the twentieth yeare of King Henry, the son of King John, queen Elianor, the daughter of Hugh, Earl of Provence, being crowned at A\'^estminster on Sunday before the Purification of the Uessed- Marie, among other things it is found thus : and a cloth, foure square, of purple silke by foure staves§, silvered over, borne up with foure little bdls silver and gilt, over the king, going whither he would, did the Barones of the Cinque Ports assigned beare, at every Stafie foore, according to the diversity of the ports, lest port should seeme to be preferred to port||. Likewise the same, a silke clot hover the queene, going after the kingV f which said clothes they did claime to be theirs of right, and obtained them in court, although the Marquesses of the marches** of Wales, vix. Joho Fitz Alan, Ralfe de Mortimer, John de Monemne, and Walter de Clyflbrd, • A chief port, or capital port, and so again afterward. f Furnished, or ready. I Constable of a ship in Dutch is used for a gunner. § Or spears, and so afterward. H That is, one with another, the Barons at the stares, without respect to which of the ports they did belong. f By this is to be understood, that the Barons of the ports did bear the canopy over the queen as well as over the king. ** Or Marquisate, and so afterward, viz. those lords tliat were governors of the marches of Wales, by the force of the Latin word, are here rendered Marquisses, and Wales a marquisate, otherwise none in England, till Kiag Richard the Second.— ^eaA«. X 306 COAST OF SUSSEX. in the n&me of the marqui^te, said it to be the right of the marqninte to find and bear those staves, but it was reput«l in a sort fiiToIoas- And the Barons of the Cinque Ports did affirm their right of sitting at the kiog's table the same day, at the right hand of our lord the king, and ao they sate. It is found also in a certaine foure square booke at the Exchequer, in the thirty-first yeare of the said King £dward, sonne of Ueniy." — Ibid. We believe the following pamphlet to be very scarce, and think that an extract from it may not prove uninteresting^. Extracts Jront " A Discourse on Sea-ports, prirtcipalfy of the Port tmd Haven of Dover, hy Sir Walter Rawleigh, and addressed to Qaeem Eli-zaheih, with useful Remarks on that Subject {pubiisked) by eotmmamd of his late Majesty K. Charles the Second." " Whereby it plainly appeareth, that as the excesdre cxpenee of die Low Countreys, bestowed on havens, hath not impoverished, but the deaa contrary, greatly enriched them by incomparable wealth and treasoic^ widi number of rich, fair, and populous towns ; so our sparing mind, or rather' greedy getting, gaining and enriching land from your ^klajesty's havens and navigable channels, hath utterly destroyed and spoiled many good havens by nature left us, and thereby wrought very beggaiy, and miaay, and desolation in these your frontier towns." " And if we search the very cause of the flourishing state of TiOniVin, which almost alone in quantity, people and wealth, in this age or reahn, ia so increased, and contrary wise of the poverty or rather beggary and decay of W'indielsea, Rye, Romney, Hide, Dover, and many other poor towns, we shall find the decay of these havens and preservatioa of the Thames the only or chief occasioD." " Hereby sufficiently appeareth how incomparable jewdla havens and sure harbours are, for gaining, maintaining, and encreaang people weahli, and commodity, in any realm." " And no lesser strength and security do they bring in time of war, as, well by the multitude of mariners (a most serviceable pet^le) and ahqipiog which they breed, as also the inhabitation of the frontiers." " But have in this last age consented to see many of cor nseful porta mn to decay, and at length to ruine, and to become totally lost to the nation ; which a very little foresight and as little charge might have prevented, while die evil was growing, which at a long run becomes incurable. Among which ports I instanced Sandwich, Dover, Rye, Winchelsea, and which wen reckoned heretofore as so many bulwarks against our ambitious neighhwir." BISTORJCAL PJlRTICVLABS OF THK 8EBVICE8 OP THK OIHQCB PORTS. — Jtuhe, " And it may be further noted, that since the nation hath increased die royal navy in the number of great and warlike ships, these being nnall (sufficient, as appeareth, to be manned with twenty men and a boy), this number of fifty-seven ships hath not been exacted, but sometimes two or three, or .more, which notwithstanding to equip, hath been equivalent in the charge to the fitting out of the old total, considering their burden* CINQITE PORTS. 307 And moreover, how chargeable soever this service hath been to the ports, they, from time to time, have faithfully performed it, as several records will testify for them. For not only, upon all occasions, have the navy of the Ports been ready to guard the narrow seas from pirates infesting the coasts (by which, as some say, and firmly believe, from traditioD of their ancestors, they first obtained their privil^es), but employed in frequent transportations of the king's forces^, if not person and family, during the long difierences and wars between England and France; so as it seems to be the chief of the royal navy till the state provided a bigger and better, and that wherein the kings of old did much confide for assistance as our histories intimate. King John, in his retirement in the Isle of Wight*, was almost forsaken of all his kingdom, save the ships and mariners of the Cinque Ports, with which he secured himself till he recovered all again. In the b^;inning of the rdgne of ELing Henry the Third, anno 1217, the Ports armed forty tall ships, and put them to sea under the command of Hubert de Burgo (then VVardoi of the CSnque Ports, and commander of Dova castle) who meeting with dg^ty sail of French ships coming to aid Levris, the French king's eldest son, gave them a most courageous encounter, wherein he took some, sunk others, and discomfited the rest. And at other timest this King Henry had great benefit by the shipping of the Ports. About 1293, or 1294, in the reign of King Edward the First, an hundred sail of the Ports navy foo^t at sea with a great fleet of French ships, of whom (notwithstanding great odds) they slew, took, and sunk so many, that France was thereby for a long season after in a manner destitute both of seamen and shipping. RoC Scotiae, 10 Edward HI., Monb. 16. The navy of the Ports, together with other vessels taken up for that service, under the command of Geffrey de Say, admiral of the sea, from the mouth of the Thames to the southern and western Ports, defended the seas, and hindered the bring- ing of succors from foreign parts to the king's enemies in Scotland. Under J King Henry the Fourth, anno 1 406, the navy of the C^qoe Ports, conducted by Henry Paye, surprized one hundred and twenty French ships, all laden with no worse merchandize than salt, iron, and oiL In the fourteenth year of King Henry the Sixth, the Ports had summons to fit out their whole number of ships, to be ready at Winchelsea by the feast of St. George, which was anno 1436. June 25, anno 23 Henry VX, the town of Sandwich set out five ships to fetch Queen Margaret oat of France. May 23, anno 27 Henry VI., the town of Sandwich, by com- mand from the king, sent out one ship for four months service. July 18, anno 27 Henry VI., the same town, by like command, set out anodier ship for four months service. January 21, ab inchoatione r^ni Hen. VI. i9, et recaptionis regis potestatis primo, the navy of the Ports were set oat to * In the seventeenth year of his reign. f As the eighth, tenth, and eleventh years of his reign, wherein be 'writes to have the Pons set out double their number of ships this time, with promise it should be no president. — 13 Febr. PaL II, Hen. III., Mem. 8. \ Before this, in the tenth and eleventh years of King Richard the Second, the Ports navy both times were ordered to be ready at Sandwich, and after- wards the like in the ninth year of Henry the Fifth, Jeake. 308 COA8T OF SUSSEX. fetch Queen Margaret and the prince out of France. March 31, antto 15 Edward IV., the king commanded the navy of the Ports to be ready in the Downs, May 26, then next to come, for transportation of the long and his army, and the king and his army came to Sandwich. Anno 7 Henry VII , in May, the I'orts navy transported the king's army from Sandwich into France. Anno 8 Henry VII., in November, the Ports navy brought back the king's army from Calais. Anno 10 Henry VII., in July, the trained bands of Sandwich beat back the king's enemies landing in the Downs. Anno 5 Henry VIII., in May, preparation for the king's army was made at Sandwich, and the Ports navy transported bis array from thence and Dover into France. Anno 34 Henry VIII., in Angust, at the king's command, the navy of the Ports was prepared, and ready, the tenth of October, at Sandwich and Dover, to transport his horses and army into France, and did transport them. Anno 35 Henry VIII., in April, the king commanded the Ports navy to be in readiness in the Downs, the twenty-sixth of May, to do their service, which they did- Anno 30 Eliza- beth, 1588, in April, the Ports, at the queen's command, set out five serviceable ships, and a pinace for her Majesty's service, for two month% but they serN-ed four months at their own costs. Anno 38 Elizabeth, 1595, in January, the Ports, at the queen's command, set out five serviceable ships, of one hundred and sixty tons a piece, for five months, at their own charges. Anno 2 Charles I., in July, 162t>, at the kings command, the Ports set out two serviceable ships for three months, which cost them 1825^ 8s. Od. One paper I have seen mentioned somewhat less." -.« HASTINGS TO BATTLE, ASHBURNHAM, LEWES, AND BRIGHTON. MILES. MILES. BATTLE 8V ASHOOMBBT.O. . i ; . I^ ASHBURNHAU 6^ PALMEB ...... 8 GAKDNEr's-STBERT ... 3 STANMEB P. O. ^ BORSE-BRUKJE .... 4 BARRACKS S} CHURCH-LAUOHTON ... 5 BRIGHTON 1^ RINOMEB i —— CLIFFE S 41^ LEWES ....... ^ The usual route to Battle is through Ore, a small village, with a decent church, and one neat residence, belonging to a Mr. Shadwell ; the next place is Beauport Park, where the road from St. Leonard's joins it, the latter of which we adopted. On passing the north gate, above the Subscription Garden, we enter the new road, and descending a hill, meet with a tum- pike-gate, built in the form of a Saxon round tower: just beyond this is a lane to Crowhurst, on the left. The church- yard at that place, we understand, contains a most picturesque yew, nearly twenty feet in circumference ; and about half a mile from the church is the ruin of a private oratory, whose exact history is uncertain. In the gable is a pretty window, which, from the shape of its arch and upper tracery, appears to be of the fourteenth century. Proceeding along the turn- pike road we reach that from Hastings at Hollington: im- mediately before reaching it, the scenery is pretty : the thick foliage, which completely conceals the small church, lies at some distance on the left, and, more in front, is seen the hand- some domain of Sir C. M. Lamb : we turn to the left and pass this on our road to Battle ; the park appears spacious, and the entrance is neat : from hence to Battle there is no particular object requiring notice ; but the view of the town, abbey, and church, about half a mile before we arrive at it, is picturesque 310 COAST OF SUSSKX. and commanding. There is an extensive tannery at the en- trance on the small brook, as its wholesome, but to some un- pleasant, odour will speedily indicate. Battle, still in a mer- cantile age connected with the arts of war, is well known, as containing one of the most extensive manufactories of gun- powder in England, at which accidents were formerly not unfrequent, but of late years none are on record. There was also in the last war an extensive depot of government stores. The church is on the right soon after entering the town; a little further on, the wide High-street makes an angle to the righ% and on the other side, facing it, is the grand old abbey gate-house. The town is indifferently built, containing, in 1831, 2999 inhabitants. This is & franchise^ in right of which the inhabitants are exempted from serving on juries ; and a coroner, 8:c. is appointed by the Lord of the Manor (Sir G. Webster), who is still or was lately termed the Aliboty as the incumbent is styled Dean of Battle. The present Dean is Dr. Birch, and we feel bound to record an honourable tnut of character ; though he would not answer our letter of topo- graphical inquiry: — viz., that the House of Correction for the district having no chaplain, he gratuitously performs divine service, and preaches a sermon to the prisoners there every Sunday. The market of the town was granted by Henry I. on Sundays, but was changed to Thursday in 1G06. Here is a charity school for forty boys, and some other benefactions. The name of the village previous to the Norman Conquest was Epi/ion, changed to Battel, from the circumstance etunt ut illam redimaC Abbas 314 COAST OF SUSSEX. vero n^at se empturum, quod non perdiderat, quin podus denunciat, ut ab infestatione villee desistant sub interminatione damui quod eis poterit provenire. Gallici ejus response exasperati petunt (si bellum velit) ut singuli ex utraque parte mittantur, vel certe plures, qui spectante utroque exercitu congrediantur ; sed nee banc petitionem abbas admisit, dicens se religiosum verum esse, et non licere sibi hujus petitiones admittere, nee illuc belli causa, sed tuitionis et conserrationis pads patria advenisse. His audiis, Gallici sstimantes animum abbatis suorumque defecisse; mox ad- tnotis instrumentis bellicis, scilicet missilibus, quorum oopia firuebantur, villam acriter infestabant, pugnantes a nona usque ad vespenun. Sed ab- batis et eorum qui cum ipso erant laudabili probitate minime profeceninL Interim dum pugnant ibidem mittunt partem navium ad villam de Hastings, quae reperientes villam pene vacuam, combussenmt cam. Gallici vero tI- dentes 6e nil prsvalere apud Wynchelsee^ recessenmt," MISCELLANEOUS. EXTRACTS FROM THE CHBONICLK. MSS. Cotton. Vitell, p. vii. fol. \6%— (translated.) 4 vergates make one wist 8 vergates make ofne hide. 16 feet make one perch. 40 perches make one qvarantein. li qnaranteins make one EngHsh leuga. It is divided (the leiiga) by wists, which, in other places, are called ver* gates. The most accustomed price of one wist is 3j." — Burrell MSS. " This abbey (Battle) flourished greatly, not only by the royal endow- ments, but by those of several of the nobility ; and a town of about a hundred and fifteen houses was in a short time formed under its patron- age, for the Conqueror had bestowed on it all the land three miles round his foundation."— Pfnmin/. " History doth mention that there was, about that time (Nor. In.), great store of Finfs at Santlac (near to Battel, in Sussex), which giveth me to think that wyne hath bene made longe sence within the realme, although in our memorie it be accounted a great deintye to heare Df."— LMmbard, William of Newbury, quoted by Camden, says, that, ** at a place called Sanguelac, in Battle, so called from a very great slaughter of the English fighting for their country, if it hap- pens to be wetted with a smart shower sweats out real blood, and as it were fresh : as if the very evidence thereof did plainly declare, that the voice of so much Christian blood doth still cry from the earth to the Lord.*' This was a harm- less error; but of course it was only the overflowing of a mi- neral str^ajn. BATTLK. 315 «< The following is the statement of the abbey pro perty, as recorded ia the Domesday Survey. The manor of Wi, in Kent, was rated at seven solins. The soc and sac of twenty- two hundreds appertained to it In Sussex the abbey held Alistone, which paid gild for forty-foor hides and a half; four hides in the hundred of Totenore; six hides and a hal^ in- cluding Bocheham, in the abbat's own rape; and portions of land of • much smaller kind, which were let to the Earl of Ow, the Earl of More- taine, and other tenants in Bece, Wasingate, Nirefdd, VenAest, Hot, Pilesham, Cedesfdd, BoUngton, Croherst, Witinges and Holintan. In Surrey, twenty-five hides at Limenesfeld. In Berkshire, the manor oi Bristoldestone, which had been Harold's, in whose time it had been rated at ten hides ; five " hagae" or houses in Wallingford ; and the chnrdi of Redinges (now Reading), with an appendage of eight hides of land. In Devonshire, the church of Colitone, with a single hide ; and the diardi of St. Olave in Exeter, with seven hides of land appended. Id Oxfordshire^ five hides at Cravmareis ; those also had belonged to Haitdd. In Esse^ one hide at Atahov, and one at Uersa." — BurreU. MSS. The abbey of Brecknock, in South Wales, was a cell to that of Battle. At the dissolution, the last abbot, John Hammond, who had been so for many years, received a pensicm of one hundred marks annually by patent, with a proviso that he should vacate his pension if preferred by the King. This circumstance, as implying conscientiousness on his part, and continued esteem on the part of others, is usually OHisidered to dissipate some charges brought against him and his monks, terrible if true, but capable of being the coinage of base and vindictive malignity, or of interest ; in this case most probably the latter. In Pope Nicholas' Taxation the following was the valuation of the abbey possessions within the archdeaconry of Lewes only: — ARCHIDIACOlfATUS LEWENSIS: ABBAS DE BEIXO. £. 9. d, BeUumcu'pV ..... 48 7 2i Berhom ..... . 17 9 Alsiston 102 12 10^ Appelderh'm 29 17 lOj Apud Berherst 2 S'ma . . 200 7 316 COAST OF 80SSKX. APPAT, 1>*0I OE BBLLO. £. S. d. EccPia de Bello 5 6 8 Vicar'' ejusdem 13 6 8 And the Summa Clara, exclusive of out-payments at the ge- neral dissolution, was 880/. I4«. Id. KONAI. INQUISITION OP KATTIK Temp. Edw. III. « BEIXVIf . " H«ec indentnra testat* q'd iaqois' capt' ap' Lewes die lone px' vatS quadr'gie cor' d'no Hear' Husee et sociis siiis collector' et ■aseBsor' none garbar, veller, et agn' d'no regi in com' Sussex' concessor', anno regni regis Edwardi t'cij post conq' qoartoded'o su' vero yalor' none p'dce jox' tenor' d'lii reg' co'miss' d'ni reg' p'fato Henr' et sodjs suis directe p' sacr'm Thome de Hesljmgh Joh'is de Loxbeth Joh'is de Westbedi et Tham* Avere poch' ecd'ie de Bello jar' et inqui^tor' qui die' p' sacr'm sno.' q'd nona p's garb' poch' ecc'ie p'de'e rait hoc anno sex marc qoatoM' soT et tres den' et agn* et Ian' val' ibid'm hoc anno ij' v* et no' pins q' nooa g'riw abb'is de Bello in ead* 'poch' val' hoc anno qnatuor m'lc' et xx'. £t nona garba sacriste de Bello in d'ca 'poch' val' hoc anno ▼]* viij'. Et nuna garb' elemos' de Bello in ead' poch' vaTt hoc a* xx ^ Ian* et agn' d'd elem' in ead' poch' vaT hoc a° . . . Et non' garb' Ticar ibid' de gleba ecc'ie TaT h» «• ij' y*. Et in feno vaT xiij' iiij' et in pomor' et vacheria ibid' xiij< iiij'' in oblato'ibz ibid' x m'rc' et in minot' de'cis xl*. Et sic val't d'ca eccl'ia de BeDo ex'" suam Sm' ex" d'ce ecd'ie xxviij m're*. " It' die' p' sacr'm suu' de hiis q' no' viv'ut de agricultur' Tid* Joh* Goryngh' q' h'et in cat' ad ral' viij* ix* inde xv"xy' et Joh' de Joh' q' h'et in catall' ad val' xxij' iij' inde in xv"* xviij'' et Thom' de GiDing^'m qui h'et in cat' ad val' xv* inde xv* xij* et Job's More h'et in CatalT ad vaTxr" inde xv"* xij*" et Joce' Ferour h't in cat' ad vaT quinq'z marc' viij" iiij* inde xv» v« et Job's Rey as h't in cat' ad val' lx sol' inde xv~ iiij'et WlITus de Helderh'm h'et in cat' ad vaT xV inde xv" xij' etWlffus Tbomdoo h'et in cat' ad val' xxij* inde xv"* xviij^. S'm todus xv'» xij" iij* x* inde XV" XV iii**. In quor test'u sigill' d'cos Henr' et soc' sui ntont' in hac p'te q'm dgill' d'cor Thom Jc^'is et Thorn' jar' sunt appensa ak'nat." — PHnted Records*. At the entrance of the Abbey is the noble gatehouse (see Vignette), a spacious oblong erection, with a tower of con- siderable size flanked by bold octagonal turrets near the west end, battlemented and turreted throughout, with some good windows and doorways, and tracery of arches and niches ; the * This, which is printed rerbatim, will show the difficulty of interprrdng Koch intricately contracted documents. We fear we have made a great mistake at the commencement of our tiaoslatioa of the Brighton roll, which will doubtlcaa be ftoon di«covered. — £d. BATTLK. 317 whole indicating a late period of the decorated style, probably about the year 14ts of blood : the drawers are knit of white silk, there is also the Holland sheet thrown over his remains after death, and his watch ; this has an enamelled case and flowers worked on the dial, and is of the old turnip shape. The principal monuments are twooi)ly» ASUBUBKUAM. 321' one, that of Sir William Ashburnham and his lady, daughter of Lord Butler, of Herts: she in a recumbent position, he in a loose gown and jjeriwng, kneeling and extending his arms to- wards her. The effect is so perfectly oritre that a smile at first is irresistible ; but when we read the inscription, which displays so much soUd goodness of heart and unaffected feeU ing, all inclination to smile ceases, and we look at the strange figure with reverence. Another monument is for his elder brother, a fine white marble effigy with a helmet, between his two wives*. The church tower contains four bells only, and these, we understood, are seldom put in motion. The noble earl is not of our mind, or he would have a sweet and dear peal of bells so near his mansion, to send forth their lively and soothing *' upland'" notes over the lands of his tenants and neighbours. The front of the mansion was then and is now a provoking riddle to us ; for we actually cannot make out whether it is intended for the Italian or Norman style. The bold and handsome projecting porch, with four arches of multiplied mouldings, ought to be the latter ; and we are only puzzled by some writers, who ought to be acquainted with the subject on which they are speaking, calling it Italian. But be it what • " The church is behind the house, and in it are monuments for Sir WiDiam Ashburnham, and his lady, daughter of Lord Butler, of Herts ; first married to the Earl of IVIarlborough, who left her a widow, young, rich, and beaatifiiL The inscription written by Sir William says she was a great lover of, and blessing to, his family. He acknowledges it with the greatest gratitiide, and recommends her memory to be cherished by them. Both their fig^ures are whole lengths, in white marble ; hers recumbent, leaning on her band; his, kneeUng in a loose gown, and great flowing wig. There is another monument, for his elder brother and his two wives, whose figitfes, in white marble, are recumbent ; he placed between them in armour, one of them in a winding-sheet, the other in • Baroness' robe. The inscription mentions, that his father, through good-nature to his friends, was obliged to sell this place (in his family long befcve the Conquest) and all the estates he bad, not lea\ing to his 'n'ife and six diildrea the least substance ; which is not mendoned to the disadvantage of his memoiy, but, to give God praise, who so suddenly provided for his wife and children, that within two years after his death, there was not one but was in a condition to help others, rather than want 6iip|>ort. His first wife made the first step toward the recovery of some part of his inheritance, selling her whole estate to lay out the money in this place. He built thi» church. This Mr. AshbombaiB contrived the escape of Charles I. from Hampton Court." — Pennant. 322 COAST OF SOSSBX. it may, it is neat and handsome, and the view from the terrace in front, over the river-like water, which is said in its whole length to cover fifty acres, and the hanging shrubberies, is very pleasing. There is little more than this to be seen. A walled garden, which, when we saw it in autumn, had a splendid col- lection of dahlias ; a small conservatory, with some fine orange trees; and a dairy. The latter is hardly worth exhibiting though remarkably neat, as well as its presiding nymph. The walls are lined with Dutch tiles and green trellis, and have some curious old china on shelves, but with no painted glass. In the centre is a pretty idea, a small fountain flowing from a glass vase, for the purposes of the place ; but the three figures whidi support it should have been of alabaster, or white marble, instead of being common plaster casts. From Ashbumham to Lewes, eighteen miles distance, is a lonely road, very barren in objects of interest, with the sole grand feature of the distant range of heights near Eastbourne, which is seen at intervals. This road is not distinguished by robberies, but seems towards the approach of night, especially, adapted to the purpose, and may recal to the mind of the imaginative traveller some of the old tales of Fielding or Smollet, in the very different state of England during the first half of the eighteenth century. We pass through GardnerV street, a dull village, and soon after leave to the left the tower of Hailsham* with its lofty and elegant pinnacles. Horse> bridge, the next point, is a hamlet to the parish of HeUingly, whose mean church, with a pointed steeple, is seen on the right. Five miles from hence at Church Laughtossible for the Roman government to subsist without such free and safe intercourse from fort to fort, and from settlement to settlement, in a long chain throughout the kingdom. RebeUions were frequent among the oppressed natives, smarting under Roman oppression. These could not be kept under, but by chains of forts intercoursing with each other. On the first alarm the whole Roman force, thus communicating, were instantly up in arms against the divided natives, and easily quelled any insurrection. The artificial ford at Glynd can't be supposed to have led from Anderida or Eastbome to any other place than Lewes, where is the nighest pass over the broad iEstuary, that then lay below and above it ; and at this place nature has formed such a fortification as can't be found again in the whde county, and where a very httle art would render it a place of great strength for a Roman garrison : and that it was a Roman settlement (tho' not to be found by any known name, unless it were that of Trisanfon, MantuantoniSf or Mutiiantonis, amongst those handed down to us by all the Roman Itine- raries) there can remain but little doubt : for the objection that their force might communicate by sea, from port to port, will not answer, as sucfa a communication must have been too precarious and inadequate to a people in arms in their inland towns and fastnesses, and nothing but a commnni- cation by land could effectually reduce them to obedience, and keep them under from time to time : — therefore, after a march of eighteen miles from Eastbome, some fort or hold, garrisoned by Roman soldiers, was necessary at Lewes to receive and refresh their military in their mardies." — Mr. EUiott.— fii/rr^tf MSS. The origin of its present castle is supposed to have been a considerable time before the Conquest, and has been sometimes attributed to Alfred. King Athelstan established tioo mints in Lewes, considered to be an indication of very great ctm- sequence at that period. At the a?ra of Doomsday it had been made the chief scat and barony of the Earls de Warren, who possessed the whole rai^c. Was the scene of the great LKWKS. 82t engagement between the barons under Simon de Montfort* and Henry III. In 1266 its lord, John de Warren, obtained a murage grant from Henry III. to fortify the town, with the aid of several dues and customs. It had a market estab- lished soon after the Conquest, and a merchant Guild, of great eminence ; a Cluniac Priory, founded at the conclusion of the thirteenth century, by the first Earl de Warren, and Gun- dreda his wife, whose annual revenue, at the dissolution, amounted to the clear sum of 920/. It had formerly, including its suburbs of Cliffe,Westout,and Southover, thirteen churches, which are now reduced to six. NEWSPAPER EXTRACTS. " Lewes, Avg. 15, 1774.— On Monday evening last the ^iie of Berwidc Church was set on fiie and consumed by lightning" " 1782.— Last Tuesday and Wednesday the 10th r^imoit of dragoons quitted their quarters in this town, and otho- parts of the county, and marched on thdr route for Salisbury. " Last ^Vednesday and Thursday, three troops of Lord Sheffield's lig^t dragoons marched through this town on their route from Coxheath-Camp to winter cantonments. The men appeared remarkably healthy, and no way affected by the severe season, or rigid field dnty, to which a wdl dis- ciplined regiment of light^horse must necessarily have been sulgect. " The above regiment may now literally be said to be composed o( gen- tlemen of fortune, being (as we are credibly informed) intitled to die capital sum of 3,000/., gloriously obtained in the service of their coantry«. by defeating a very formidable and dangerous gang of riotous smu^lera^ assembled, upwards of twelve months since, at Deal, in Kent, from whom they seized contraband goods, producing the sum above-moitioned la their dure." « Oct. 15, 1792.— Vay few emigrants have l»tdy landed on our oout.— Eight French clergymen debarked at Seaford, from an open boat, in great distress, last Thursday ; Mr. Harben, of Corsica Hall, found them in the hands of men not of the most liberal cast, from whose impor/irat//» he reacoed them ; and having humanely relieved them, he forwarded the unfortunate men to Lord Sheffield's seat, about twenty miles from thence, where they were, as others have been, very hospitably received and entertained. We hear his lordship has recommend«i them to the committee in London. They came from Paris about ten days ago, and we leam the history of aome of them is uncommonly affecting. Two had been confined in the same place with the bishops and clergy who wctc massacred ; and they did not effect their escape until they had been eye-witnesses to the cod and d©- • We never meet with this name without being reminded of the ballad of " Prttfy Btsite," in Dr. Percy's coIlectioD, which is founded oo it. 228 COAST OF SCSSRX. libo^e murder of the venerable Archbishop of Aries and near 120 bishc^ and clergy." " Sep. 24. — There was a meeting at the Star in this town last Thorsdaj, for the purpose of concerting the best means of uniting the exertions of this country in favour of those who by unexampled barbarity are driven oa our coast. Gentlemen attended from diderent parts of the country to give information of what had been done. The meeting entered into several resolutions, and appointed a committee to correspond with rimilar com- mittees at London, and to pursue such measures as might best procore for the oppressed refugees, an hospitable reception, and a safe and unmolested conveyance to London or elsewhere. It was observed by Lord Sheffield, from the chair, that the arrival of these unfortunate persons was not a matter of choice. That we coidd not shut the door against the ofiending misery. That if we rejected or refused relief to men in their distressed situation, it woidd be an everlasting reproach on the national character, which had been famed for generosity and humanity. That the notion of their causing a scarcity could not seriously be beheved by any man of reflection. That if ten times the number should arrive, it would be im- perceptible in the consumption of provisions within this island. That the rise of meat had taken place before they had arrived in any number, and that the increased price of com happens, of course, in consequence of the alarm of a bad harvest. It was further observed, that on the return of the three or four regiments from our foreign garrisons, or even of twenty or thirty regiments on the conclusion of a war, that no man ever pretended to be alarmed on account of a scarcity of provisions. It does not appear that more than eleven or twelve hundred have landed in Sussex, and that almost all of them go to London. To tlie honour of the country it should be mentioned, that they have been every where treated in their passage through it with all the attention and kindness which circumstances wotild admit." "Sept. 10, 1792.— On Wednesday and Thursday last no less than one hundred and seventy French emigrants, mostly priests, were landed from the packets, and an open boat, at Brighton. More are daily arriving, and many of them are observed to labour under very distressed drcumstances. " On Friday and Saturday last near three hundred unfcHtonate Frencfa- roen of the above description were put on shore at East-Bourne, many of whom were very hospitably received by Lord George Cavendish, Lord Bayham, A. Piggott, Esq., and many other of the nobihty and gentry of that place. They afterwards took different routes for the metropolis. Many from the above place, and Brighton, came to thia town ; and such as could not get places on the stage-coach hired carts for their conveyance. Five of them, seemingly of a superior order, who brought a letter of reconunenda- tion to a geudeman of this town, have fixed their abode here. " We have just heard, that yesterday morning near one thousand more of the above unfortunate people landed at East-Bourne. " Last night a post-chaise and waggon, heavily laden with them, arrived at the Star Imi in this town." LEWi:s. S^Q " Last week the groand fur the erection of barracks near Lewes was con- tracted for. The quantity is four acres, lying on the south ade of Haie- dean spring, as good a situation as could be chosen for the porpose. They are to be completed, we understand, in the course of six wed^s, and made sufficient for the acconunodation of 1,000 mat." "1794. — Lewes fair, last week, was the best stocked of any known on the South Downs for many years past: it is supposed that there were not less than 48,000 ewes. Iambs, and wethers in the several pens. The prices were higher than looked for even by the stock-masters, owing to the great increase of late grass, and the success of the Kentish farmers in their hap plantations, who were thus enabled to buy freely and largely. The Elmans, both of Glynd and Shoreham, as usual, bore away the bell beyond all com- parison. The best prices obtained were, ** SheerHng Wethers, Draft Ewes, Wether Lambs, Ewe ditto, " 1 803. — The erection of new barracks at Spital-hill, near Lewes, com- menced to-day, where, for wliich purpose, thirty acres of ground have been recently purchased by Government.'' £. «. d. . 25 . 22 ditto. . 17 ditto. . 14 10 ditto." DESCRIPTION. CASTLE. This building is chiefly remarkable for having had two Keeps, raised on mounds within the enclosure of its walls; one at the western extremity remains in a tolerably perfect state, and has a very commanding appearance, impending over the street of the town, and picturesquely covered with ivy. The ruins of this castle are however far from interesting, very Uttle of the primary features of architecture are discernible, and though it has been liberally repaired, this has been done in a very modernized and mediocre style. A large square tower at the entrance, probably of the 14th or 15th centuries, battle- mented and machicollated, is the most ornamental part. The view however from hence is very pleasing, and wiU repay the ascent. PRIORY. The remains of this building, which was situated on a low spot near the river at Southover, are inconsiderable. The principal arc a large and smaller aix;h at the eastern end of the churchyard, which arc neat specimens of the 13th century. I 330 COAST OF SUSSEX. A mound near the priory has been lately conjectured to have been a Calvary, a place for exhibiting annually a representa- tion of the crucifixion of our Saviour. The walk from the high street by a steep descent, and a lane winding through trees and ruins, has a romantic air, and is pleasant in summer. TOWS HALL AND COUNTY SESSIONS-HOUSE. This edifice, which was erected in 1812 at an expense of little more than .£'10,000, has its front in the High-street, to which it is unquestionably a greater ornament than the huge Towa Hall is to any part of Brighton. Its dimensions are 80 feet by 76. The front of stone, having pillars in the centre of the basements and rustic work, in the wings, is remarkably neat, and even handsome, and has three of the boldest and most graceful allegorical groups that we have ever witnessed. The interior, in addition to convenient courts, has a very handsome ball-room, 60 feet long, 30 broad, and 27 high, decorated with paintings and statues. CHURCHESu ST. THOMAS A BECKETt's, CLIWE, has three small aisles and a chancel, and a decent square tower. Its south side, which is open to the street, has been lately improved, and rendered neat ; the north side, as Brighton church was lately, is disfigured by the vile shutters^ which are surely to be seen no-where else but in Sussex. Allowing the possibility of their absence causing an exj)endi- ture of 40*. per annum for broken panes, that is scarcely an object to be put in competition with perpetual disfigurement. The interior of this church is neat, has galleries of wainscot over the greater part of the aisles, and a good organ, painted white and gold, with two tall angels of gilt brass on its summit, brought from the seat of the * magnificent ' Duke of Chandos at Canons. The altar, of the Doric order, with white and gold fluted columns, is handsome, and the east end, which has no window, is further decorated. Above the north aisle is an excellent painting of the Ascension, given by B. Vander Gutcht, Esq. in 1779 ; and the pulpit, &c. has been r^ently LEWES. 331 refitted with crimson velvet and gold fringe. The tower con- tains four bells and a clock. This parish, town, or suburb, contained in 1831, 1408 inhabi- tants. The church is considered as the head of the Peculiars of the Archbishop of Canterbury in Sussex, and was visited by him as such in 1 832. We were truly glad to see that this mild and unobtrusive, and very benevolent and charitable man was here treated with cordiality and respect. •^* ST. John's, under the castve, is a small and mean edifice, consisting of the nave only of a very ancient one, which was ruinated and disused in the time of Camden, but has been since repaired. Its architecture has been considered to indicate a Saxon a?ra, and it has some masonry of the herring-bone style, which is either included from some Roman original, or an imitation of it. Its principal curiosity is an antique gravestone, which has been assigned to a son of Harold, and has the following inscription, partly com- plete and conjecturally restored : " Clauditur hie mfles, Danaomm r^;ia proles, Mangnus noraen ei, Mangnse nota progeniei : - Deponcus Mangnum Be moribus induit agnam Prepete pro vita, fit parvolus anachorita." For further particulars of this monument, the reader may consult the history of Lewes. The intervention of an * »"' has been apparently considered as no bar to the punning turns which the monks were so ready to avail themselves of on every occasion. The interior contains a fine painting, in the style of Rem- brandt, the Presentation of young Children to our Saviour. The parish contained in 1831, 2421 inhabitants. •,* AU. RAINTi The body of this church was decently rebuilt with brick in the year 1 807 : the dimensions are 80 feet by 40, divided into two aisles, and it will contain 650 persons. The expense did not much exceed ^2000. The old tower at the west end rises very slightly above the roof. The interior has a good painting of St. John the Baptist in prison, brought from Italy and pre- 332 COAST OF 808SEX. sented by the late Earl of Chichester, and a powerful organ. Population in 1831, 2112. ST. PETXB's, mast's, and ANNS'i^ WBrTOCT, Called St. Anme's, the remaining church of three parishes, is a very ancient structure, in good preservation. It has a long nave, a south aisle, which is not indicated by its external appearance, 1 1 feet 3 inches wide, and a chancel. The tower at the west end has an obtuse shingled spire. The architecture is mixed Norman and early Gothic ; of the three arches of the nav^ two are pointed and one round ; each of the capitals of the circular columns rests on four neat corbels, which has a pleasing and not very usual effect ; the arch of the chancel is circular, and at its east end are three lancet windows. The churdi contains a very elegant monument of white marble, and a neat organ. The font is Norman, with handsome reticulated work, of 100 was given for the repairing, &c., of this church by Her- bert Springett, Esq., in 1620. Population in 1831, 746. ST. Michael's, in tr£ makket, consists of three aisles, and was partly rebuilt in 1755 at an expense of £1366 : its front, of squared flint, with stone win- dow and door frames, is remarkably neat ; at the west end is a low round tower and slender spire, a vestry, and projecting clock. The interior is very neat, but has no organ ; the east window is ornamented with plain stained gla.ss, neatly disposed, with a large red cross in the centre, given by the present Rector, Dr. Proctor. In the north aisle is the monument of Sir Nicholas Pelham, 15.59, which has two short Corinthian or composite columns, and many kneeling flgures- "His valour 's proof e, his manlie vertaes prays^ Cannot be marshalled in this narrow roome; His braue exploit in great King Henry's dayes Among the worthye hath a irorthier tombe : What time the French sought to have sack't Se*-Foord This Pelham did repd 'em back aboord." *' P^Zham" and " repeVeva" was, we imagine, intended as wit by the *♦ word torturers" of a punning age. Population in 1831, 1074. LEWKS. SUS ar. JOHN THE baptist's, flOVTBOTKB, has a nave, south aisle, and chancel, and a respectable brick tower, rebuilt in the early part of the last century, at the ex- pense of 4812. 15^. 4ii., and containing, by gradual addidons, eight bells: three small pieces of carving, brought from the Priory, are inlaid in as many of its sides. The south aisle was added after the Reformation. This church has two old indifferent paintings, and a neat organ, lately presented by a lady in the parish : but its greatest attraction is the tomb of Gundreda, daughter of William the Conqueror, and wife to the first Eailde Warren, which had been removed, at the dissolution, from the chapter-house of the priory to Isfield, and was restored to this neighbouring situation of its original one by William Burr^, Esq. in 1775. It is of black marble, sculptured with foliage, in a fine early style, and bearing around its edge the following inscription, with slight conjectural supplements, in characters which have been verified as Norman, and of the eleventh or early part of the twelfth coitury : — " 8TIRPS GCKDREDA DVCVlt, DECITS ETI^ NOBII.E GERMKN, IXrCUT ECCI.ESIIS AXaVOWX BAI£AlfA MOKUX, * MABTBA FUIT MISERIS, FCIT EX PIETATE MARIA ; PARS OBUT MARTHE, SCPEREST PABS MAGNA MARIK. O PIE, PANCBATI TESTIS PIETATIS ET EQUI, TE FECIT HEREDEM, TU CI.EMENS 8CSCIPE MATREM. SEXTA KAI^ENBARCM JVNH LOX OBVIA CARNB IFBE6IT AI.ABASTRPM." The author of the History of Lewes has given a neat poeti- cal version ; but we prefer offering a prose one, in which the ^mple tenor of the original will not be in the least rendered subservient to rhyme and metre. " Gundred, of Ducal race, the ornament of her age, a noble bud,-Brought into the churches of England the balsam of morals-She was a Martha to the wretched; she was, tor piety, a Mary : The part of Martha has died, the mighty • The rtyming: of the penultimate with the middle S3rllable of the verse a Tery favourite oniament with the monks, and others, in the middle ages. Critics have noticed similar instances in Vir^ and Ovid. " Comua velatanim obvertimus antennanmu"— ViE. 334 COAST OF SC88EX. part of Mary survives. - O, holy Pancras ! witness of her piety and righteousncss,-She made thee her heir ; do thou, benign, re- ceive a mother-The hostile dawn of the sixth calend of June- Broke the alabaster of flesh.'' The parish contained, in 1831, 831 inhabitants. There are several Dissenting chapels in Lewes ; one, near the bridge, has a neat Ionic front. MISCELLANEOUS. Several schools, alms-houses, and charitable associations, in Lewes, indicate liberality on the part of its inhabitants. The county jail *,* is said to be decent and appropriate. There are two or three superior libraries, a small Theatre, Horti- cultural Society, Mechanics' Institution, &c. &c. The bridge over the narrow river Ouse is an old one, of one arch ; its upper part has been widened, and the whole rendered neat. Near the town is a celebrated old mound, called Mount Ca- bum, supposed to have been originally a Roman camp. A poem on this subject, of great merit, was written by Mr. Hay, and includes an extensive range of local allusions. The town has several good inns, as the Star, Crown, White Hart, &c. &c., and several academies, and teachers. The streets are neatly paved, and kept very clean, and the general aspect of the town indicates much comfort : its total population is about 9000. Lewes has returned two members to Parliament since the year l!808. The market-house, which, internally, forms a small square, was rebuilt of brick in. 1793 ; at its entrance is a belfrey, containing a fine-toned old clock bell, called Saint Gabriel's, brought from the ruined church of St. Nicholas, and weighing about 18 cwt. The markets for provisions, cattle, sheep, and com, are considerable, as are also the fairs : races are held at the end of July. Lewes is celebrated for its breweries, and has one steam paper-mill, the proprietor of ■which has also another at Isfield. It had formerly a consi- derable trade in wool ; now it is principally confined to grain - ' STANMER. 335 and malt, and other articles of provision ; it imports a consi. derable quantity of malt, by the Ouse, from Newhaven, for the supply of the adjacent country. Leaving the western extremity of Lewes, on the hill beyond St. Ann's church, is a fine view over the Downs on the left towards Rottingdean, and also a pleasing retrospective one of the upper part of the town of Lewes, and the lower suburb of Southover, with the large and rich meadows in that vicinity. Descending into a valley we come to Ashcombe Gate ; the turnpike-houses here are of rather ambitious construction, of a circular form, with pillars at the entrances, and will, per- haps, strike the traveller as unusually handsome. On the left is a plain house agreeably situated, lately purchased by Sir G. Shiffner, whose principal seat is at Coombe Place, in this neighbourhood. The road continues nearly flat between hills till the ascent to Falmer. In various parts of the road from Lewes to Brighton we meet with spacious and venerable looking farm-houses and buildings, affording no uncheering idea of the agricultural state of the district. The mansion at Falmer occupied by H. Rogers, Esq. is on the left, agreeably situated amongst some fine old trees, and close by it is the church, which was neatly but ordinarily rebuilt of brick, in the present century. Interesting particulars of this parish are contained in the " History of Lewes." The population is about 500. In Pope Nicholas' taxation, « P'or de Lewes apud Faleme £54. Os. Od^." and " Eccl'ia de Faleme cum Burg, (als Bercheme) £\S. Qs. 8d. P'or Lewens'. " At the bottom of the hill on which the few houses of the village stand is Stanmer Park, the seat of the Earl of Chichester. Per- sons on foot or on horseback, are allowed to pass through this park, but carriages are excluded, except those of pri- vileged individuals. The park is very pleasingly wooded, which was effected by the superintendence and assiduity of the late Earl of Chichester. No water is however appa- rent, and if there are any ponds or streams, they must be of an insignificant nature. The ride through this park 336 COAST OF SUSSEX. may in fine weather be strongly recommended to the visitors of Brighton : it is a favourite drive of his present Majesty. The house near the farthest end presents two stone fronts of very neat but perfectly plain architecture, and was built in 1724 : of the interior, we are unable to give any account*. The small church a little further to the right, has a very pretty appearance, with a neat spire, a restored window at the east end, which is mantled with ivy, and two curious old yew-trees in the churchyard : the village is just without the park gate. The park, contains nearly the whole of the parish, and extends into those of Falmer and Ditchling. Returning to the entrance of the park, and emerging into the high road, which, it may here be mentioned, in its course from Brighton to Lewes, is considered to be one of the very best in the kingdom, no material object occurs till we reach the horse barracks before alluded to ; and soon after the stately tower of the new church appears, to give a friendly welcome to the " Great Babylon"" of water- ing-places, " Whose ivory throne Is by the side of many azure waters." • " August 1782. — On Tuesday last, ber Royal Highness Princess Amelia, attended by Lady Amelia Carr, &x. set out on a visit to Lord and Lady Pel- ham, at their seat at Stanmer, near Lewes ; a mark of Her Royal Highness*! condescending gratitude for the invariable attachment of that family to hers. On Thursday Her Royal Highness attended by Lord and Lady Pelham, visited Brighthelmstone, and was much delighted with the view of the sea and the Steine ; and after having subscribed to the two room's, library, music, &c. her Royal Highness returned to Stanmer, from whence she set out on Friday for Gunnersbury." Drayton's polvolbion. 3S7 W t MICHAEL DRAYTON'S ACCOONT OF THE SUSSEX COAST, WITH THE OBIGHTAI. NOTE^ 1618. SEVENTEENTH SONG OF TDE RITER THAJOS, AD mTKM. " Here suddenly he staid; and with his kii^ly i ^ITiilst yet on every side the city loudly ixjiog. He with the eddy tum'd, a space to look about: ' The tide, retiring soon, did strongly thrust him out. And soon the pliant muse, doth her brave wing adTsnoe, Towards those sea-bordering shores of ours, that point at Fnnce^ The harder Surrian heath, and the Sussexian down, ^Vbich with so great increase though nature do not cnnm. As many other shires, of this environ'd isle: Yet on the weather's head, when as the sun doth onilc^ Nurst by the southern winds, that soft and gently blow. Here doth the lusty sap as soon b^;in to flow ; The earth as soon puts on her gaudy summer's suit ; The woods as soon in green, and orchards great with fruit. " To sea-ward, from the seat where first our stmg begun. Exhaled to the south by the ascending sun. Four stately wood nymphs stand on the Sussexian ground. Great Andredsweld's* sometime: who, when she did abound. In circuit and in growth, all other quite suppress'd : But in her wane of pride, as she in strength decreased. Her nymphs assumed them names, each one to her deiigfat. As Water-down, so call'd of her depressed site: * '* All that maritime tract comprehending Sussex, and part of Kent (so much as was not mountains, now called the Downs, which in British, old Gaulish, Low Dutch, and our English, signifies but hills) being all woody, was called Andredsweald, i. e. Andred's wood, often mentioned in our stories, and Newenden in Kent by it Andredcester (as most learned Camden upon good reason guesses) whence perhaps the wood had his name. To this day we can those woody lands, by north the Downs, the Weald ; and the fhann^l of the river that comes out of those parts, and discontinues the Downs about Bramber, is yet known in Sboreham ferry, by the name of Weald-ditch; and, in another Saxon word equivalent to it, are many of the parishes' terminations on this aide of the Downs, that is, Herst, or Hurst, L e. a wood. It is called by Ethdweid expressly Immanis nylca, que vulgd Andredsuuda nuncttpatmr, and was cxx miles long, and xxx broad. The author's conceit of the:^ forests being nymphs of this great Andredsuuda, and their complaint for loss of woods, in Sus!«x, so decayed, is plain enough to every reader." S38 COAST OP tusscs. And Ash-down, of those trees that most in her do gfw* Set higher to the Downs, as the other standeth low. Saint Leonard's, of the seat by which she next is |4aoed. And Wtiord that with the like deligheth to be graced. These forests as I say, the daughters of the Weald (That in their heavy breasts, had long their griefs coooeird) Foresedng their decay eadi hour so £ist came on. Under the axe's stroke, fetdi many a g r ievou s groan, Allien as the anyiTs wogfat, and hammer's dreadful aoimd. Even rent the hoUow woods, and shook the qoeachy groond. So that the trembling nymphs, oppress'd through ghastly fear. Ran madding to the Downs, with loose disherd'd hair. The Sylvans that aboot the neigfabauring woods did dwell. Both in the tufty firith and in the mossy fdl. Forsook their gloomy bowers, and wander'd far abroad Expell'd their quiet seats, and place of their abode^ Atlien labouring carts they saw to hold thdr daily trader AVliere they in summer wont to sport than in the shade: Could we, say they, suppose, that any would us cherish, AVliich suffer (every day) the holiest things to peridi? Or to our daily want to nuidster supplyf These iron times breed none, that mind posterity. Tis but in vain to t^ what we before have been. Or changes of the world, that we in time have seen ; Allien, not devising how to spend our wealth with wast^ We to the savage swine let fall our larding mast. But now, alas ! oursdves we have not to sustain. Nor can our tops suffice to shield our roots from rain, Jove's oak, the warlike ash, vdn'd elm, the softer beech. Short hazel, maple plain, hght asp, the bending wydi. Tough holly, and smooth birch, must altogether bum: What should the builder serve, supplies the forger's tnm; Mlien under public good, base private gain takes hold. And we, poor woful woods, to ruin lastly sold. " This utter 'd they with grief: and more they would have qtoke. But that the envious Downs, into open laughter broke ; As joying in those wants, which nature them had giTcn, Since to as great distress the forests sliould be driven. Like him that long time hath another's state envied. And sees a following ebb, unto his former tide; The more he is deprcss'd, and bruised with fortune a miglit, The larger rein his foe doth give to his despite: So did the envious Downs ; but tliat again the flooda (Their fountains that derive, from those unpiiied woodi^ And so much grace thy Downs, as through their dales they creepy Their glories to convey unto the Cdtic deep) It very hardly took, much murmuring at their pride. Clear Levant, that doth keep the Southamptonian ivte (Dividing it well near from the Sussexian lands "I'hat Sdsey doth survey, and Solent's troubled tanda) Drayton's polyolbioh. 3S9 To Chichester their wrongs impatiently doth tdl : And Arun * (wliich doth name the beauteous Amndel) As on her course she came, it to her forest told. Which, nettled with the news, had not the power to hold : But breaking into rage, wish'd tempests them might rive ; And on their barren scalps still flint and chalk might thrir^ The brave and nobler woods which basely thus upbraid. And Adurt coming on, to Shoreham sofUy said. The Downs did very HI, poor woods so to debase. But now, the Ouse, a nymph of very scornful gnoe^ So touchy wax'd therewith, and was so squeamish grown. That her old name she scorn'd should publicly be Imown. Whose haven out of mind when as it almost grew. The lately passed times denominate^ ihe New. So Cucraer with the rest put to her ntmfw^ mi^t: As Ashbume undertakes to do the foresta ri^it (At Peoisey, where she pours her soft and gender flood) And Asten once distain'd with native En^Uah blood ; ' - (\Vhose soil, when yet but wet with any little rain, i^Doth blush, as put in mind of those there sadly slain, \VTien Hastings' harbour gave unto the Norman powers. Whose name and honours now are doiizen'd for ootb) That boding ominous brook, it tbron^^ the forests rung; ^rhich echoing it again the mighty Weald along. Great stir was like to grow ; but that the muse did cfaann Their furies, and herself for nobler things did arm." * " So it is conjectured, and is without controversy justifiable if that be the name of the river. Some fable it from Arundel, the name of Bevis' horse : it were so as tolerable as Bucepbalon, from Alexander's horse, Tymenna in Lycia from a goat of that name, and such like, if time would endure it ; but Bevis was about the Conquest, and this town is by name of £nmdele, knovm in time of King Alfred, who gave it with others to his nephew Athelm. Of all men, Goropius had somewhat a riolent ctMijecture, when he derived Hanm- dell from a people called Chanides (in Ptolemy, towards the utmost of die now Jutland), part of whom he imagines (about the Saxon and Danidi irruptions) planted themselves here, and by difference of dialect, left this as a branch sprung of their country title." t " This river that here falls into the ocean might well be understood in that port of Adur, about this coast, the relicks whereof, learned Camden takes to be Edrington, or Adrington, a little from Shoreham. And the author hen so calls it Adur." ^ " In the plain near Hastings, where the Norman WilUam, after his victory, found King Harold slain, he buDt Battle Abbey, which at last (as diveis other monasteries) grew to a town enough populous. Thereabout is a plaee which after rain always looks red, which some have (by that authority, the muse also) attributed to a very bloody sweat of the earth, as crying to Heaven for revenge of so great a slaughter." z2 340 WESTERN COAST. BRIGHTON TO CHICHESTER. Setting out from the western extremity of Brighton, and entering on the road beyond Adelaide terrace, we pass through the few houses forming the village of Hove, and leave its now humble church on the right, and emerge into an oj>en and wild country, with few objects chequering its flat and uninteresting surface. Soon afterwards, however, the road attains an eleva- tion above the sea, and displays the inlet of the sea from Shoreham harbour, which flows up in a recursive direction for nearly two miles at high-water. The view opens a little here into the interior of the country, and exhibits the insignificant ruins of the destroyed village and church of Aldrington ; the more pleasing locality of Portslade, with its gray church on a hill, surrounded by foliage, and the villages of Kingston and Southwick. •,* PORTSLADE. " North-east of Kingston, about one mile and a half, between two hills, lies the small village of Portslade, between three and four miles from Brighthelmstone ; it contains several good houses, and has an old church, that cannot boast of much beauty, though it may of antiquity ; it has a low square tower at the west end, embattled with nave and chancd, the former much altered, and the latter of the early simple pointed style." — Gent-'t Mag. 1814. •.• KINGSTON. " The church is but part of a larger eearaDce, and the entrance very narrow and difficult from the projecting shoalbank, which, to the most • We perceive no records of a Priory at Southwick, and are entirely ignorant to what this entry alludes. 34^. COAST OF 3V88EX. inexperienced eye, conveys the impression that great caution must always be necessary to avoid running aground. Between the town and Southwick is an observatory, overlooking the harbour, and the solid central tower of the coU^ate-looking church adds its full effect to the appearance of the scattered and moderately peopled town. Shoreham, i. e. Old Shoreham, is supposed to have been the place of JEWa the Saxon's second landing with rdnforcanents, a short time previous to his victory near Anderida, which led to the establishment of the kingdom of the south Saxons, comprehend- ing Sussex and Surrey. It was given, with the whole rape, at the Conquest, to the family of Braose, who resided at the castle of Bramber, and by their extensive connexions with Normandy contributed to render this, during three centuries, the greatest port on the southern coast, especially for the importation of wines ; they were accused, however, of frequent and ratho: harassing exactions from the merchants. In the armament of Edward III. at Calais, Shoreham furnished 20 ships and 329 men. After the connexion with Normandy ceased, the town rapidly declined : in 1432, the inhabitants are said to have decreased from 500 to 36 * ; perhaps the adult males alone were here computed. Shoreham has returned members to parliament from the 23rd of Edward I.; but from its great corruption the franchise was extended, in 1T70, to -the whole rape of Bramber. The church was originally a chapel of ease to Old Shoreham, and was given with it by one of the family of Braose to the church of St. Florence at Salmur, or Saumurf". In Pope Nicholas's taxation occur, " Eccl'ia de Vet'i Scorham 24/. Os. Od. Eccl'ia de Nova Scorham lOl. 0*. Od. hb't breve. Prior de Sela.'" (This was, perhaps, g^ven after it wa^ made a separate parish, or the possessions of St. Florence were. confiscated, but, be it as it may, we cannot explain it) — ^** Prior de Sela in Vet'i Scorham 31. 13s. 4d." Here was a Carmelite Friary and two hospitals ; the seal of one is extant, bearing the inscription—" the.sele.of.ovh.savior.jesvs.chk^st.qf.t^jP. OSriTAL.OF.SHORAM. SUSSEX.^' • Cartwright. f Ibid. 8HOEKHAM. 343 The church dedicated to St. Mary is the choir with side aisles, transepts, and tower of the ancient building, whose nave is demolished, except one arch walled up at the end, and sup- posed to be left as a support to the tower. Mr. Cartwright describes its former length as 210 feet, but from actual mea- surement we found it to be the following: nave, 93 feet,; tower, 2i; choir, 68; total, 185 only: he also gives the length of the transept, 92 feet, which we believe to be nearly 10 feet too much ; its breadth is 22, and that of the choir and aisles 52. The external appearance of this church is striking and noble, exhibiting both the union and contrast of the Norman or Saxon and early pointed style ; its east end has three fine lancet windows with clustered columns, above* nearly equal to the window of Rievaux Abbey, in Yorkshire, and three circular arches below : at the summit is a rude circular window, with lozenged quatrefoils on each side, and a heavy cross. The clerestory has five spacious early pointed windows inted, and are five in number on ea<^ nde, springing, on the north side, from alternate octagonal columns with flowered capitals, and circular ones, and on the south side entirely from clustered columns, which are the most beauUful we have ever seen, each consisting of 14 pilasters with flowered capitals, combining the elegance of the Corinthian with the grandeur of the Gothic. The upper story is inferior to several others of the 12th and 13th centuries, especially that of Malms- bury Abbey. In the north clerestory is a gallery, with three plain double arches west, and two handsome trefoil ones east ; the vaulting on this side ends above the pillars tm handsome corbels. The east end has very rich mouldings; its small central window below has pilasters resembling the Ionic : the altar, of stone, is modem. At the west end is a high plain gallery above the arch, containing an extremely small organ, which forms a poor finish to this end ; but the whole of the interior is very neatly fitted up. The tower contains six bells, but one is broken and another damaged. We cannot recom- mend the ascent, though often undertaken for the sake of the view ; it is totally dark, requiring a lantern, and in one part, where it has been repaired, so narrow, that it reminded us of the terrifying predicament of the poor Frenchman in that redoubtable and not-to-be-surpassed-in-interest history, ** The Travels of Rolando round the World;*" its summit is also dangerous, having no battlements, and a parapet about a foot high only. Adjoining the churchyard, which is very neat, is a national school. Shoreham contains about 1500 inhabitants. It is very cele- brated for the building of ships, some of which are as large as 700 tons, and sent to orders from a considerable fiistance. In the last year, a yacht was built here for the Corporation of Dublin. tt The receipt of Customs at the Port of Shoreham on fo- reign goods imported averages about .£30,000 a-year, and the declared value of gooils evjx>rted about ^40,000; a great ad- dition is about to take place, more particularly in the receipts, SROBEHAM. 845 Shordiain having been approved as a warehousing port for West India, Mediu'rranean, and other produce, for the recep- tion of which large and commodious warehouses have been built, and others are in progress of erection. ** The number of ships which entered the port during the past year was about 1,200, exceeding 100,000 tons; consisting, principally, of vessels from Russia, Prussia, Norway, America, France, the Netherlands, Spain, and PortugaL ** Shoreham Harbour is a tide harbour, and the best on this line of coast; it was erected in the year 1816, by subscriptioo, in shares, and has proved a very profitable undertaking to the subscribers, the o£'100 shares being worth „£*2r0 per share. The cause of the great prosperity of this work is to be attri- buted to its proximity to the large and flourishing town of Brighton, from which the seat of business is distant only three miles, Brighton being within the Port of Shoreham. The Steam Navigation Company's packets, plying between Brighton and Dieppe, also embark and disembark their passengers in Shoreham when the weather will not permit them to lie along- side the chain pier. *' An elegant and most commodious Custom-bouse was erected here in the year 1830 by Mr. Sydney Smirke, which, together with a noble suspension-bridge, built over the river Adur, at the expense of His Grace the Duke of Norfolk, which is intended to be opened in March next, has greatly tended to improve the town, and will shorten the distance be- tween Brighton and Worthing at least two miles, brining those towns to within ten miles of each other. The bridge was designed and erected under the superintendence of Clark, Esq., civil engineer •." The bridge alluded to, which forms a striking feature on approaching the town from AVorthing, has piers of stone, and bears a greater resemblance to that at Hammersmith, than the Chain Pier of Brighton. • Obligingly communicatt^ by S. P. Edwards, Esq., Collector of Cu8toin« at Shoreham. 346 <:OAST OK RCSSEX. Three-quarters of a mile further is the church of Old Shore- ham, close by the present wooden bridge, over the Adur, which was erected \)y annuity subscription, but with a reversion to the Duke of Norfolk, in the year 1781, and finished in tea months. It is 500 feet long, with 32 openings, and 12 feet wide, with two recesses 70 feet by 24. Here was, originally, a ferry, the tolls of which were, in the year 1387, worth 201. per annum*. ' • . i Old Shorehara church is considered as the mother church of the county, and, the probability is strong on the side of its having been erected before the Conquest It has a nave, chan- cel, two transepts, and centre tower, whose fine circular arches have been stopped uf>, and miserably disfigured. The ncHrth transept is in ruins, as is also the belfry staircase turret, though still used : this is of a square form, which was common in Saxon -f- or Norman buildings. The chancel has some handsome windows, inserted in the fourteenth century. The interior has four arches, low, but some of them richly orna- mented, of immense solidity, and in a very perfect state; the nave end is decently kept. A low, but very rich arch, is on the outside of the south transept. The population does not much exceed 200. A straight road leads from Shoreham to Worthing, through Lancing; but we proceed, first, five miles on the right to Bramber, the celebrated locality of the barony and castle of the Braoses, and the ancient capital of the rape; well known, also, as one of the notorious rotten boroughs, containing only twenty houses and one hundred inhabitants. The history of this family and barony is one into which our limits and the space we have devoted to the eastern part of the coast absolutely preclude our entering : there exists, also, this dif- ference, before referred to, that the history of the western rajjes of the county has been learnedly and diffusely written; • Cartwright. f The reader will see that we do not meddle with this question, though we have little doubt that many buildings still remitining ore Saxon. If we mistake not, a llohtelry lias bicn discovered in Southwark, belonging to the priory of Lowes, which has a dale before the Conquest. BftAMftKB. 347 and we therefore refer all readers, who can procofc them, to the able works of Dallaway and Cartwright. Braniber Castle is supposed to have existed before the Coo- quest, and to have been a residence of the South Saxon kings. Bpymmbuph signifies a " fonificd hill," in Saxon. Its area comprises three acres and a rood. At the entrance is the fragment of a Norman tower, of great solidity ; in the centre, the mound of the keep is very fJainly discernible. The castle was defended by strong walls, about eight feet thick. On the east side, the valley, through which the Adur now flows, was either covered with water, or waa a deep morass, and afforded a still more efficacious barrier. Ilie view from this castle is romantic and beautiful, extending to the Devil's Dyke and Chankbury Hill, a very picturesque old British encampment. The view towards the south-east and north-east is particularly interesting, where the deep and wide moat is now covered with the foliage of small trees, and exhi- bits, in autumn, every varied hue and colour. The church, at the entrance of the castle, is a small old Saxon one, mantled with ivy, and well kept, but bears the traces of having been formerly of much more extensive dimensions. One mile further is Steyning, a respectably built town, now containing about 1500 inhabitants, but possessing ancioit as- sociations of some grandeur, having derived its name from the Roman via, Stane, which led from Arundel to Dorking, baring been also the burial place of St. Cuthman, a Saxon saint, of the eighth century, who founded the church, and afterwards, as is reported, of King Ethelwulf, father of Alfred. Its Saxoo ap- pellation was Sreninxham, from stasTiy a stone ; and, at the Norman valuation, it was divided between William de Braose * and the abbey of Fiscamp, to which it had been granted by £dward the Confessor: the value of the former wa* upwards * William de Braose possessed the town and port of Sboreham, toD mad arrinage there with all its appurtenances, and a free market on two daja in tb« week, viz., Friday and Sunday, and a fair of two days at the feast of the esalt»> don of the holy cross ; also assize of bread and beer, wreck, by the se*-co«8t as far as his Barony extended, and chase fchaciaj by his own mariBers of Shoreham from lirnchcs as fur as the Ible of Wight, and to the middle of the %cA,—D<>dUian MSS. BurrcIL 948 COAST or scsskx. of 100/., then an iromense annual income; had 67 hides, 123 messuages, four mills, and two churches*. In 1279, Stejning had a market twice in the week, viz. on Wednesdays and Saturdays. The former still remains, with a cattle market every fortm'ght, and three fairs. The possessions of Fiscamp were, on the dissolution of alien priories-|-, granted to the abbey of Sion, in Middlesex, by Edward IV. having been previously, on the petition of Parliament, taken into the royal hands in the year 1415. The tithes of the parish and the dues of the borough, which were in their possession, alone amounted, in 1309, to the sum of 951. J. Steyning returned members to Parliammt from the year 1278 §. The church is the choir of the original one, with a modem tower, erected about the reign of Queen Elizabeth, at the ancient intersection, and a modem chancel, which was repaired by the late Duke of Norfolk. The tower, which is square and massy, scarcdy rises above the roof, but is neatly chequered with flint, and has rather a better appearance than would be expected from the view in IVir. Cartwright's work, generally so well illustrated. The churchyard is very large and remarkably neat. Most readers will have met with some accounts of the magnificent Saxon or Norman architecture of the interior of this church, but the beauty of the detail must be seen to be appreciated. The clerestory has four handsome circular-headed windows on each side, with pilasters and a • OftwrigliL t " It was a custom for the abbies of Nonnandy to hare gremt estates in England, either granted by the Conqueror, or left by those Normans to whom the Conqueror bad giren the lands before. This gave rise to oBem priorieMj which were no other than little cells, buUt upon those estates, to take care of them. These houses were governed by a prior, who remitted the rents to the Notman and French abbies, and were inhabited by a few poor brothers or sis- ters besides. Hen. 4, with his Commons, thinking it very injurious to the interest of the nation to suffer such large sums to be annually sent out of it, dissolved all these priories, which were bought up by churchmen chiefly, for a trifle ; and thus they were enabled to found colleges, and do such vast works." — Edwau) Clakke — BurrtU MSS. f Cartwrigfat. § Pope Nicholas' Taxadon *• Abbas Fiscamp, Ecdia de Stenynge en* Capella Wy!>ulmestoQe 2(WL 0»- OJ. h'et breve." — " Ecd'ia de Brambre, G^ 13(. All., non excedit.' " Man'ia Abbis Fiscamp, Stening o\L lis. Id." STCTMIXG. 34d runniog moiiUHng. Four arches are on each side of the interior, resting on circular columns, each three feet eight inches in diameter, and, as well as all the smaller ornaments, in so perfect a state of preservation, that they might be supp>osed to be of the most recent erection. At the east end is a very bold arch thirty-eight feet in height : these arches as well as the capitals of the pillars are remarkable for being so extensively varied, that of the former, not one is like another, and scarcely any two of the latter. 1'he arches have each eight or ten suits or tiers of mouldings of every possible Saxon or Norman variety, some of which are exceedingly rich, exhibiting the Grecian ornaments of the lotus and the acanthus ; others are dentils, scales, reticulations, &c. &c. ; the soffits are also enriched, and the outer rims of some of the arches charged with small patertB; and the capitals of the pillars have much variety and beauty. The tower contains six bells, not very tuneable: the interior of the church has been lately refitted at considerable expense, and when painted will be extremely neat. Steyning contains a very well endowed grammar school. This place and Bramber have long been the projjerty of the Dukes of Norfolk. The tourist who has made this diversion from the main track to visit Bramber and Steyning will find a tolerable road from the latter to Worthing, which, at its commencement, is pretty well wooded and picturesque^ but for the last three or four miles becomes flat and drear)-, with the exception of the last mile from Broadwater. We return, however, now to Shoreham bridge, and pursue the direct route which leads through Lancing, a parish containing 700 inhabitants, and including two hamlets, respectively called Upper and Lower Lancing, both which are passed through in the route to Worthing. This is a respectable and well built village, containing the handsome seat of Sir J. M. Lloyd, several good houses and neat cottages ; and it has a good church of three aisles, with some Norman remains. To the left, on the South Downs, is the lately discovered Roman pavement, and which we shall speak of in our account of the vicinity of Worthing. The 350 COAST OF SUSSEX. adjoining village of Sompting, *,* lying lietween it and Broadwater, is not passed through. This demesne and manor was given at a very early period to the Abbey of Fiscamp, but the church was, in the twelfth century, granted to the Templars, free of all taxes, and is so entered in Pope Nicholas : *' Eccl'ia de Suntyng est in usus Templar"", et ideo, non taxat' : Vicar ejusdeni 10/.— 'Man'ia Abbis Fiscamp, Suntinge 11/. 7*." At the suppression of the Templars, it was given by Sir Andrew Pevcrel, who resumed the possession, to the knights of St. John of Jerusalem. The chUrch is a Norman building, crud- forrn, and has the singularity of a pilaster, or moulding, running up the centre of each face of its tower, which has excited much observation*. . The road from hence to Worthing leads over a flat ^ore, intersected with brooks, which bears decided marks of former inundations. In fact there is very little doubt that an aestuary formerly flowed up as far as the village of Broadwater. * Mr. Cartwright enumerates the follonnng curious and miscellaneous works of Williara Brownsword, vicar, 1707 — " A Didne Ode on Prophecy, as pointing out the Messiah. Dedicated to the Lord Bishop of Chichester. To which are annexed some suitable Notes, both explanatory and instnicdve." " Laugh and lye down ; or a pleasant but sure remedy for the Gout, without expense or danger. Generously published and recommended from the author's own experience. In a Poem Serio- Comic Humbly inscribed to Sir Hans Sloane." — " Laugh upon Laugh, or Laughter ridiculed. A Poem (Ethico- Comico-SatyricaL Treating of the several kinds, or degrees, of Laughter." d5i WORTHING. This pleasant and sociable little watering-place is now twelve miles distant from Brighton, but two of these will be curtailed by the new road over the suspension bridge across the Adur, at Shoreham. It is a hamlet to the parish of Broad- water, but exceeds the mother village in a twofold degree of population. Worthing is a place which we shall not flatter, though we have a former pleasing but melancholy brief as- sociation with it, which must for ever render it interesting to us. But we can with perfect impartiality recommend it as possessing strong inducements of comfort and pleasure not always found in larger places of resort. In fact, its very size is an auxiliary to this effect : there is more union and concen- tration of its visitors as well as inhabitants, and more com- munity of its few amusements. The resident population is also united and friendly, and the lower classes decent and orderly. In fact, we scarcely know a drawback to a visit here during its season in the summer. We should, however, specify here, as at Hastings, that, as the air is remarkably mild, it will not suit those who desire a bracing atmosphere, whilst for those of a different temperament it is of course highly eligible. The climate is so mild that myrtles and fig-trees grow in it to great perfection. The distance of Worthing from the metropolis is fifty-five miles. Its population, exclusive of the village of Broadwater, is now about 3000.; ORIGIN. Worthing, under the title of Ordings^ is mentioned in Doomsday Book, where it is valued at 117 shillings ; it had also, either then or very soon afterwards, a chapel. The extent of land belonging to the hamlet is, however, only 300 acres, and it continued a small and unnoticed place until it began to 352 COAST OK srssEX. attract attention as a suitable locality for a watering-place, about twenty years before the conclusion ^of the last century. NEWSPAPER EXTRACTS. We have taken several of these from our collection, some of which, as is also the case with tliose we have inserted in other places, are not certainly of general weight and importance, and we are not without anticipation that they may be smiled at by readers of a critical temperament. But we considered that they would prove entertaining, not merely to inhabitants, but also to visitors, as exhibiting both the former condition and the progressive increase and improvement of the places to which they refer ; and as Worthing is the last of our stations for this purpose, we are the less inclined to abridge their extent. " " Worthing, Aug: 1, 1798.— Hct Royal Highness the Princess Amelia arrived here at twenty minutes before eleven last night, attended by Lady Charlotte Bellasyse, Mrs Cliaveley, Miss Goldsworthy, Gen. Goldsworthy, and Mr. Surgeon Keate. The Princess is this morning much recovered from the fatigue of travelling, and is as well as can be expected. Her Royal Highness and suite occupy two houses laid into one, near the Beach. Mr. Surgeon Keate and family reside in the next house but one. " A party of the Derbyshire Militia, commanded by Captain Shuttle- worth, consisting of 1 20 men, arrived here this morning from their camp on Clapham Common ; they have pitched their tents in a field near her Royal Highness's residence, and are to continue while the Princess remains. Among the persons of fashion already arrived, are Lady Curzon, Mr. Tier- ney, M.P. and family, Mr. Ellis and family, and Miss Parker." "Aug. 8, 1798. — Yesterday being tlie birth-day of her Royal Highness the Princess Amelia, it was observed here with much ecldt. The morning was ushered in with ringing of bells ; the Fly iJoop, stationed here, dis- played her colours, and at one o'clock fired a roval salute, which was answered by a feu-de-joie from the detachment of the Derbyshire Militia, who were marched down to the sands for that purpose. The Princess was carried on the sands in her settee chair, attended by her suite : her Royal Highness was in good spirits, and seemed higlUy pleased with the attention of Captain Cumberland, who kept the sloop under way, and upon different tacks, while the Princess staid, which was near two hours. After her Royal Highness had dined, she held a little Drawing-room, attended by Lady Charlotte Bellasyse and Miss Goldsworthy, when Captain Cumberland, of the Fly sloop. Captain Shuttleworth, and the officers of the Derbyshire Militia, were introduced by General Goldsworthy. The Princess gave orders that the soldiers should be regaled with a sufficient quantity of bread, cheese, and ale. In tlie evening a general illumination took place through- WOBTHIKG. 353 but the town and its vicinity ; among the most conspicuous were the hoaaei of Mr. Ellis, Mr. Strynger, Mr. Burke (the Circulating Library), and the two Inns, kept by Messrs. Hogsflesh and Bacon. At nine o'clock, C^tain Cumberland made an elegant display of fireworks on board the sloop, which exhibited a very brilliant appearance from the shore to a vast number at spectators ; at the conclusion, the vessel was illuminated from her p(»ts to her top-gallants. Among the nobility who called to make inquiries after the hedth of the Princess in the course of the day were, his Grace the Duke of Norfolk, Lford (now Duke of Bedford) and Lady J. Russell, Lard Tor- rington. Lady Martin and daughters, Mr. and Lady Ann Ashley, Miv Bridgraan, and Miss Byng. Mr. Strynger has, we understand, in m very polite manner, offered the use of the grass plat in the front of his boose for the accommodation of the Princess, when the tide prevents her Royal Hi^ir ness from going out on the sands.' This circumstance was the principal cause of the rise and prosperity of Worthing, as the visit of the Prince of Wales was of that of Brighton. The popularity of the former was after- wards increased by the residence of the beloved and lamented Princess Charlotte. '*Avfr. 14, 1796.— Worthing, a pretty little bathing-place, aboat thirteen miles from Brighton, has at present to boast of many fashionable yriaton. There are only two inns in the town, and a narrow road just divides them. The two landlords' names are Hogsflesh and BacanT On this subject a puerile rhyme was current, something to the following effect : " Brighton is a pretty street. Worthing is much taken: If yoQ can't get any other meat. There 's Hogsflesh and Bacon.' " Avg. 16, 1805. — This place, which has so mnch increased within dieae few years, particularly since Princess Amelia bathed her^ with degant and first-rate houses, is now so full that families retire to Brighton fox want of room. Lord Dundas's late house (who left here last week) was eng^ed before the family remained in it a week, notwithstanding its distance from the sea, by Miss Blake, the present occupier, who pays eight guineas a week for it. Within these three years there have been no less than six streets built here, and at present occupied by persons of the first-rate fashion and fortune in England, viz. Montague Place, Bedford-row, Cop- ping's-row. Beach-row, Brook-street, and Hertford-street ; and, &om their extensive view of the sea, are generally let at any price; there are several very capital houses now building in the town and its vicinity. The beach, without a cliff, at low water extends six miles, and at ebb-tide, near three quarters, and is generally five hours' ebb, by which the ladies and gentle men take delightful rides and walks, and in other parts it is occupied by ▲ A 354 COAST OF SUSSEX. aome of the best cricket players in England, the sand* being to finie *aA level." "Aug-QS, IS05. — This place still increases in company so much, that there is not a single bed, nor even any accommodation to be got, the ioflox is so great. The sands yesterday afforded considerable ^wrt by * poDJ race, which brought the whole of the fashionaUe Tisitors here U^ether, fir a bridle and saddle, the first two miles to be run for by four ponies. Lady "W. Gordon's farourite pony, late the Duke of Queoisberry's, was tbe favourite at starting; bets two to one against the field, the bay pony belonging to Mr. Broderick won by a whole length. " After this race, the sporting gentlemen retired to the Admiral Nelson, where four matches were made for 500 guineas each : 1st, 300 yards; 2d, one mile; 3^1, one mile and a half; and the 4th,. two miles. These matches will, it b said, be run for on Monday and Tuesday next. Tlie Marquis of Blandford is stake-holder. Bets to a. considerable amount are poiding.' "Aug. 18, 1805. — ^Yesterday erening the sand was crowded with carri- ages of various descriptions : on inquiring the cause, we learned it was a great party of nobility, who had left Brighton, on visits here. The only places of accommodation for strangers in this town are two public-houses, opposite to each other, and kept by men of the name of Hc^sfle^ and Bacon ; out of 153 of the above party, only 42 could get any refreshment^ or even a dinner ; and upwards of 100 persons were obliged to go back to Brighton, widiout any accommodation whatever; 27 persons dined at the house of Mr. Hogs/Iesh, and 15 at the house of Mr. Bacon; and some were fortimatc enough to get accommodation at the Admiral Ndson, • small house np the town. This inconveniency will be removed next season, by the building of an Hotel on a scale suitable to the dignity of the visitors ; there is also wanted an assembly room, whidi, we are informed, will be built, to be attached to the hoteL About devoi o'clock last night the whole of the inhabitants of this place were greatly alarmed by a fire whidi happened at Broadwater, about a mile from this town; by some accident a rack of furse was &et on fire, which communicated to several others of the saioe quality, but of greater magnitude; the dryness of the furse, whidi wa.s intended for the burning of bricks, made such a blaze that most of the inhabitants actually thought the French were landed, and were homing down the town ; while others, not so frightened, hastened to the spot where the supposed enemy had landed, hut soon discovered their mistake, and quietly returned back to bed. Last nig^t pony and donkey racing were frequent on the sands." " Avfr. 19, 1805. — From the fineness of the morning yesterday, as eariy as six o'clock, the sands were crowded with fashionable families. After breakfast the beach and sands were crowded with barouches, curride^ ponies, and donkeys. Last night we had the heaviest fall of rain evcr rcmembered at tliis season of the year, and the whole of this day we had a tremendous thunder-storm, accompanied with heavy showers of hail aad WOBTHIMO. 355 raiD. On Friday a grand cricket-match was played at Broadwater, aboat a mile from this place, between 1 1 gentlemen of London, and 12 of Worth- ing, Shoreham, and Brighton, for five hmidred guineas a side. The wickets were pitched at eleven o'clock, and decided on Saturday in favoor of London by two wickets." " A letter from Worthing, dated Sept 23, sajrs, ' Two ressds are now cruizing off here, the Beaumont (late the Rose) and the Lion. Yesterday a boat from the Rose was despatched to the shore for provisionsi, having five men on board, which was unfortunately upset about two miles from the shore. The men clung to the vessel, waiting the arrival of boats, which set off to their assistance. As she kept sinking by their weight, two of the brave fellows, that could swim, let go their hold, and told the others to stick fast by her. One of the boats came up with the swimmers, who told them not to wait for them, but to hasten to the assistance of those who could not swim, whidi they did. The whole were in this way saved; but the two generous tars, who were so anxious for their companions, were nearly gone before they were picked up by a second boat However, by the care of those on shore, they were soon recovered, and had thdr gene- rosity rewarded by a liberal subscription.' " " A privateer of no common magnitude was taken by one of our gim- brigs, near this part of the Channel last night, and safely conveyed into the port of Worthing this morning." " Brighton, Aug. 26. — A French privateer secreted herself last nig^t near Worthing, and, about four in the morning, captured a sloop, laden with sugars, teas, &c. &c , to the value of 7000/. As some part of the in- habitants were stirring at this early hour, they gave the alarm, and Captain Remus, in a revenue cutter, recaptured the sloop about five ; and, after bringing her into Shoreliam harbour, went in pursuit of the jnivateer, which she captured in three hours after (a few shots being fired from the cutter), and brought her safe into Little Hampton." 1807. " A most ludicrous circumstance happened lately at Worthing wfaidi has caused much merriment About the time of Brighton races, the bdl- man of Worthing gave notice to the inhabitants and visitants in that town, that a lady had lost a wig, coming from Broadwater, and the restorer of it was to be handsomely rewarded ; but nothing was heard of it at that time. About a week ago, a bird's nest was discovered in a tree, in a meadow be- tween Broadwater and Worthing ; some young gentlemen climbed the tree for the nest, and disturbed a magpye ; when, to their great surprise, it proved to be the identical wig that was lost, with nothing in it but a few sticks, and the maker's name sewed in the inside, ' No. 68, Cryer's, Comhill,C«talani.'* "The Flying Artillery have left the barracks here to encamp near Worthing, which place they leave, to form flying encampments in the neighbourhood of Arundel, Chichester, &c. They do not return to this place before Anguat" A A 8 S56 COAST OF SUSSKX. " Juhf 2i.— On Tuesday last the Princess Charlotte of Wales, «r- companieil by Lady I)e Clifford, made her appearance at Worthing. Th« yeomanry and the volunteer corps were on duty on the occasion, and the village was brilliantly illuminated in the evening. The greater part of the nobility at present here have since paid a visit to Worthing, to con- gratulate her royal highness on her arrival. — Lord Craven, and a lai^ party of ladies and gentlemen, sailed for AV^orthing yesterday moming, in his lordship's pleasure yacht. Off the place a royal salute was fired; the company soon after were put on shore, where they continued for serend hours, and in the evening returned to this town." ^ " Worthing. — This place is as gay as in the middle of summer, and more crowdeii than any other watering place. The influx of diurnal visitors from Brighton, Arundel, and little Hampton, is very great. The theatre is very well attended ; the grand melo-drama of Tekeli is brought out witli great splendour, and attracts very great houses." " Brighton, Aug. 10. —As early as nine o'clock yesterday morning, the Prince left this place on horseback, to pay a visit to the Princess Charlotte of Wales, at AV^orthing. It was nearly six in the evening before his royal highness relumed. During his absence, the Duke of Clarence arrived here, and afterwards dined with his royal brother at the Pavilion. DESCRIPTION. THE ESPLANADE measures between half and tliree-quarters of a mile in length, and is twenty feet wide, forming a neat gravelled terrace, slightly yet sufficiently elevated above the level of the waves, which flow up close to its base ; a barrier is also thus effected against the incursions of the sea. The bathing machines are ranged immediately below it on the beach, which is one of the finest, smoothest, and most regular expanse of firm sand on the English coast, affording the readiest facilities for bathing at all seasons, and the most extensive facilities for driving and riding that are to be met with in this part of the coast. We find it stated, that the entire level suited to this purpose is nearly twelve miles ; and we have formerly visited Little Hampton, eight miles distant, in this manner, entered the harbour and town, and returned, during the time of low water. The esplanade is of course the fashionable pro- menade of the town ; some neat pleasure-boats, though not of considerable size, are stationed off the beach, and flies, ponies, donkeys, " et id genus omne" of auxiliaries to pleasure or health arc stationed in the carriage road in front of the Parade. wonTHixc. 357 BUILDINGS IN GENERAL. Worthing is not a regularly built town, but by no means. suffers in appearance from this circumstance; in fact, we think it gains by it, as the visitor finds at many turns new objects which he would scarcely have expected. Like Brighton, it follows the line of the sea, but has many openings in an opposite direction, one of the principal of which is the Steyney a very neat oblong space, of about four acres, surrounded on three sides by handsome dwelling houses. Wanmck House is in this direction, which is usually let to some visitor of distinction, and has been occupied by some members of the Royal Family; it has nothing beyond neatness in its exterior, but is said to have been erected after the plan of a Roman villa. About the centre of the esplanade, a well built but very short street opens into a large space or square, forming the body of the town, with several neat shops, offices, bazaars, &c. at its right and left ; at the end, is the Chapel of Ease ; at the south-east extremity, the market, a theatre, library, and the back of the Steyne. At the south-west angle is the ap- proach to Park Crescent, the most recent and the grandest pile of buildings in Worthing, which commands a fine pro- spect in which the spire of Tarring is a conspicuous object, and is erected in a very good style of architecture, not the least ornaments of which are the beautiful Terin'mx at the entrance gate ; there are several other neat piles of buildings in the place, which need not be particularized, but the tout ensemble is neat, airy, and graceful. THE CHAPEL OF EASE was erected in 1811-12, at an expense of 13,000/., and is a neat edifice of pale brick, with a stone portico of mixed Doric and Tuscan character, and a bold though low turret. Its in- terior will contain al)out S.'JO persons, a portion of whom are free. Neatness almost approaching to plainness characterizes its interior ; but it has a good organ, which cost 6C0/., and is gratuitously played by a Miss Morrab, daughter of a medical gentleman in the town. 358 COAST OF SUSSEX. THE MARKET is a neat, quadrangular erection, between Ann and Market Streets, with a double entrance. There are several charitable institutions in Worthing whidi come more properly under the head of Broadwater, but amongst thera the Dispensary should be particularly mentioned. BATHS. Worthing has two of these establishments of a veiy su- perior character. The Royal Baths have a spacious boarding- house attached to them, which is a great convenience to the invalid ; and the Parisian Baths have, in the ladies' depart- ment, a conservatory. THE theatre; though small, is tastefully decorated and richly painted in tbe interior, and considered very pretty for a country establish- ment. Some years back, it was still more highly patronised and extensively frequented than it is at present, and was then, under the management of Mr. Trotter, considered as a nurseiy for performers, especially songstresses* ; but it is now, under different conductors, well managed, and obtains a share of i^ probation. LIBRARIEa Stafford's library, fronting the sea, is an old-established oo^ and well conducted : — speaking of this and the theatre, some ten years ago, we remember them in their zenith. Miss Carter's library, in ^V^arwick-street, lately opened, is a tasteful establishment, consisting of three rooms, the two first par- taking of the library and the bazaar, and the third a reading- room, opening to a lawn and flower-garden. Mr. Shearsmith speaks highly of the engaging attention of the conductresses, • Mr. Shcarsmiih'8 (surgeon) Description of Worthing, from which we h«f« derived several hint*. WOKTHINC. S59 in which, from a brief opportunity of judging, we are disposed very fully to coincide. INNS. The Sea-House Hotel is, perhaps, the grandest establish- ment, but the Marine Hotel opf>osite affords equal comfort ; of a similar character is the Steyne Hotel, and there are some other very respectable inns in the place;. MISCELLANEOUS. Worthing has a bank ; a sufficient number of physicians, surgeons, instructors, schools, &c. ; coaches to London, and others to principal places along the coast, especially Brighton and Chichesttf . VICINITY OF WORTHINa The church and village of Broadicater lie north-east from Worthing about a mile distant, and the commencement of this walk is as pretty as one will see *' on a summer's day." The church here is one of the few which are perfect ** gems* in Sussex, from the extreme poverty of the g«ierality ; but this would be considered a handsome one in any part of the kingdom. It is built in the form of a cross, but without bat- tlements to the high shingled roofs, which is rather a draw- back to its external appearance. The internal length is 139 feet, viz. — nave, 61, tower, 20, and chancel, 58; length of the transept, 90 ; breadth of the nave and aisles, 42. The tower in the centre has Norman windows, and a round comer turret, lately erected in place of a pointed roof. A mixed style oi the twelfth, thirteenth, and four- teenth centuries characterizes the interior. The nave has plain, pointed arches, with circular columns; a pcmited arch, with zigzag ornaments, not dissimilar to those of Eastbourne Church, opens into the tower; whilst its opposite one is circular, and has rich capitals of palm-branches, an ornament introduced by the Crusaders. The roof of the chancel is 360 rOAST OF SUSSEX. vaulted, resting on five pilasters, each pilaster on both sldesl resting on a bird's beak corbel, as at Shoreham, with capitals partly foliated and partly plain. The side-windows of the chancel were altered in the fourteenth century, and a hand- some one at the end is of the same date; the west window of the church is of the fifteenth century. On the north side of. the chancel is the rich though heavy canopied and fretted, monument of Lord De la Warr, 1526, engraved in Mr. Cart-^ Wright's work ; and, in the south transept, another, to a member of the same family, 1554, when Itahan ornament had been to a still farther extent combined with the Gothic, and bearing a greater affinity to some of the later ones in Arundel Church : both of these are eminently worthy of notice- On the floor of the chancel are also several interesting brasses and inscriptions. The north transept has been parted off for a school-room, as the south has for a spacious vestry. In the tower are six small, musical bells, in very good condition. The whole of the interior of the church has been liberally and handsomely fitted-up, at an expense of upwards of 1200^., more than 700/. of which was raised in the parish. At the end of the chancel is a solid and handsome altar-piece, with white and gold tables, and a large glory in the centre ; the common altar-cloth, of blue, with yellow silk fringe and braid-. ing, a glory, and IHS., is inscribed, " Exdono Hen. Travers, Arm, 1723,"" and is in surprising preservation ; but a splendid one, of similar pattern, in crimson velvet and gold, and another for the pulpit, has been given by Miss Daubuz, of Offington, who has also increased the communion-plate. The churchyard is densely crowded with tombstones, but very neatly kept. We accidentally noticed one which, after expressing Christian hope, concluded with classic elegance — •' J'^ilio bene meritOy contra ordinevi^ parentes." This reminds one of Cicero's affecting apostrophe, not, also, without hope — " Cvjns a me corpus crematum estf quod contra decuit ttb ilia meum^ • > The rector of Broadwater is the Rev. P. Wood, M.A.,and the curate, also of the chapel at Worthing, the Rev. W. Da-. BBOADWATKK. 361 vison, M. A. It would be less than strict justice, on the equitable principle, " Palmam qui meruit ferat," if we were not to add, that both these gentlemen are most diligently though unobtrusively engaged in their sacred duties, and in every thing tending to promote benevolence, morality, and prosperity, writhin the circle of their influence. Broadwater, including Worthing, now contains upwards of 4500 inhabitants, a population which, of course with a prin- cipal reference to the latter, has been trebled since 1801. Much interesting information of the history of this parish will be found in Cartwright''s Rape of Bramber. In the Norman survey it was held of William de Braose, but after- Wards it passed into the hands of the noble family of Camcns, and was the head of their Barony. One of these, in 131S, obtained a grant of a market and fair at Broadwater. In the reign of Henry VII. it was possessed by the celebrated Sir Reginald Bray ; subsequently it has been in the hands of a variety of parties, and now belongs to a Mr. Newland. Offington, in this parish, was, in the fifteenth century, the seat of the De la Warrs, the most celebrated of whom, a statesman and ambassador, and Knight of the Garter in the reign of Henry VIII., is the nobleman who has the splendid- monument in the chancel. In his will he ordered that he' should be buried with honour, and that twopence should be given in alms to every person who chose to come and claim it; towards which he left his gold garter and chain. He also be- queathed to the church his mantle of blue velvet, and his gown of crimson velvet, of the Garter, to make two altar-cloths.' In the Burrel MSS. is an inventory of the goods of the last Thomas Lord De la Warr, who died in 1 Mary, 1554: the following extracts, which we have transcribed, will show both the extent of the original mansion, and the nature and value of a number of miscellaneous articles at the time it was taken. APARTMENTS. *♦ My lord's bedchamber. The gallery chamber. The inner gallery, with The closet next the garden. 362 COAST OF SUSSEX. The gaUery at my lord's chamber door. The gentell women's chamber. The maids' chamber. My Lady West's chamber. The great chamber. The middle chamber. The ladder c^uunber. The hafl. The gallery going into the diapd. The chapel chamber. The black parler. The vellet chamber. The chamber within the vellet chamber. Mr. West's chamber. The chamber over. The newe worke. Faraitoiec The tower chamba*. My Lady Shirle's chamber. The nercerye. The three chambers. The chamber ova- the batterye. The parler over the seller. The new chamber within it" Two other parlers, and thirty other chambers and offices. VALUATIO:«S. The " clocke and the bell " are valued at 26*. 8A The "chappell stuff" at 23/. 15*. 6d.; besides a "payer of organs" Si; a chalice, 14 ounces, 3/. lOj. id ; a vestment of blue velvet, with other things, SOj. " ' The wardropp,* 32L St. " A * kirtell' of crimson whyte, lined with sarcenett, and a hood to cor- respond, 6L " My lord's robes of the Charter, 18/. " My lord's apparell and armour, 65/. 17*. 6d. The plate is in a variety of items, about 350/. in the ytboie, and the collar, &c. &c. of the Garter, 95/., and a vast quantity of linen. Also of com and live stock. The best horse is worth 5/., two at M., others from 40*. down to 8*.; 8 working oxen, 11/. 6*. 8d.; 10 fatting oxen, 12/. 3*. id.; 181 sheep, 18/L 2*. Property at Ewhurst, rather more than 40/. " My lord's house in London" between 20/. and 30/., besides "agowneof blacke vellet facyd with satten," 10/.; " a jackett of vellet with lace," 4/. 200 marks for 3 years after liis decease given by the king and queen out of the Exchequer, for the due performance of his will, — 400/. 4 years' profit of certain manors in Devonshire, 134/. 3*. id. Some small debts:— ready money, 16/. " Summa totalis of all the invcntorye is 1800/. 1 1*. f d." Offington is now a plain-looking respectable mansion, not LANCIM6 DOWN. 369 having the appearance of great antiquity, standing in a small park, finely wooded with old trees, and belonging by purchase to J. T. Daubuz, Esq. Pope Nicholas's Taxation : — Dccl'ia de Bradewater cum capella (var. read. capellis) .... £46 13 4 Prioriss' de Essebom, in Bradewat* Worthiriff de redd' assize . . .210 In the parish also is Cissbury, a hill of sixty acres, sur- rounded by a vallum, imagined to have been originally a British encampment, and afterwards adopted by the Romans : subsequently also by the Saxons, as its name, from one c$ their kings, Cissa, evidently demonstrates. In addition to this eminence, formerly a camp, and Chanck- bury, a bolder one, crowned with a picturesque clump of firs, which faces Steyning and Bramber, there is a third, called Highdown hill ; and all these formed a chain of connexi(Hi with St. Rook's, or Roche's hill, near Chichester. Highdown has also the tomb of an eccentric, though good-hearted, miller, sometimes visited by those who, in the former respect, are as silly as himself. ROMAN PAVEMENT. LAKCmO DOWB. After the visitor has passed through Upper Lancing, he will enter on a singularly wild country, to which we hardly know what appellation to give : it is too dreary for pastoral effect; yet, having some herbage, can hardly be termed a desert. It will be a variety, at any rate. The remains are situated on an eminence of the South Downs, which, as far as space is concerned, has certainly a commanding view. We are disposed to sp>eak well of ** the show," in order to serve the honest and patient man who has discovered and preserves it: but we are not of those drj/ antiquaries, who have a pleasure in burrowing in the earth, and disturbing the bones of the defunct. We had therefore as lief not see the moul- dering relics here collected, and care but little to whom they 864 COAST OF SOSSEX. belonged. Still there are other objects of interest in ther shape of curiosa, though in their material by no means hand- some, pavements, some small altars, lavatories, &c. and a really valuable collection of coins. But having already stated pur ignorance of and distaste to this peculiar walk of antiquity, we had better leave the reader to form his owto opinion. A curious effect has the red and white flag, which the honest man has stuck up on this wild hill, with the inscription •* Roman Pavement'" in large characters. He has also erected a neat species of hut to receive visitors, and enclosed the ground in a neat style; and both he and his son evince a' gratifying intelligence, and wish to please. One mile to the west of Broadwater is Tarring^ now a decayed town, but a place of much ancient importance and association. The manor was given by King Athelstan to Christchurch, Canterbury, between the years 94-1 and 944,- and was in the possession of the archbishop of Canterbury, till it was usurped by the crown about the time of Cranmer ; but the impropriate rectory is still possessed by the Archbishop. " There seems to have been a church or monastery at Tarring, built to the honor of St. Andrew in the time of OlFa, King of the Mercians; and there were some remains of it in a free chapel, or peculiar jurisdiction, whidi continued here to the tirtie of Edward III. See Moruut. Ang. In a Car- tulary of the Archbishop of Canterbury is a covenant between the Dean of South Mailing and the Rector of South Mailing touching jiuiadictioo. " Mr. Klliot in a note says, there seems to be no reconciling the date in the Mcnasticon, nor ascertaining the founder from thence, who was either Earl Waldhere, or Adwlf, Duke of Sussex."— JBtrrretf MSS. In the 24th year of Henry VI. the inhabitants petitioned for a market, for these curious reasons : — that whilst th6 men of the town were attending neighbouring markets those re- maining in the town and their wives and children had often been slain or maltreated by incursions of the French and Spaniards; which, as Mr. Cartwright observes, was very ex- traordinary, since there was a market not farther off than Broadwater. Their petition was, however, granted in the following charter ; its original is kept in an old chest in the church tower. TARRIMG. 36$ Terttngevilla: mercat in dieSabbatL — Tower Rec. No. 37. 21 H, 6. " Henricus Da gratia Rex Anglise & Frandae et IXus HibemiiE, Archiqns, Epi's, Abbi'ts, PrioribuSj Dudbus, Marduonibus, Comidbas, Ticeoomitflmay Majoribos Ballivis, CoDstabuIariis ministris et omnibas fidelibus buIb ad quos prssentes L'rs poreDerint, salutem. Sdatis q'd cum nos p' hamilem EapplicatioDem, dilectonun Ligeor n'ror hominum in villa de Tering in com Sussex prope mare dtuata habitandum inteDeximus, qualiter ipa pluribus temporibus, p' inimicos nostros Frands et aliarum partiom fla- dem, per mare transeuntes quam plurima dampna deperdita in corporibus el bonis suis indies sustioent et patiuntur, qualiter etiam prsfati homines aliqood mercatom in villa prsdicUi minime habent, p' quod prsfiui ho- mines in absentia sua in eundo ad proximum mercatum, non solum villain illam veram etiam omnia bona sua in eadem existent: indies ... farmi- dantor; Nos ad prsmissa considerationem habentes volentesque eoadem ligeos nostros in hac parte relevare et supportare ut tenemur, de gratia nostra spedali concessimus pro nobis et heredibus n'ris, quantum in nobis est, bominibus in dicta villa de Terring habitantibus, quod ipsi imperpe- tuum habeant et teneant sibi et successoribus suis unum mCTcatum singolis septimanis, apud predictam' villam de Terring tenentur in die Sabbati, its tamen quod mercatum illud, non sit ad ocumentum alior' vidnor' mow cator.' Uiis testibus — ^venerabilibus patribus. J. Cantuar. totius Ang^Sc Primati, Cancellario nostro, W. Lincoln. Th. Bathon & WeDen. W. Car. Epi's; carissimo avunculo nostro Humfrido Duce Gloucestr'; — Carissimis consanguineis nostris Humfrido Stafford, & Will'o Suff Seneshallo Uoepidi nostri, comitibus, necnon dilectis et fidelibus n'ris, Radulfo Cromwdl et Rudo Boteller Thesaurario ars militibus et apud Westmonasterium, nn- dedmo die Junii, anno regni n'ri 22^. — Louthe p. breve de privato SigiDo et de data predicta, auctoiitate PadiamentL" " Transcribed from the orig. diarter in y< possession of Rer*. Mr. Fen* fold, min'. of Terring, Sussex, April 13, 1779. The seal appended rem presents j< long on horsel»ck in compleat armour, inscribed " Hemicos Dd gratia Rex Frauds, Anglis, et I>'\ Hibems. Reverse, the king dt" ting on his throne, robed and crovmed, holding in his right hand a eeefiJXf and in his left the orb with the cross, inscribed roimd j* brim as befare."— ^ See &ndfotd's GoieaL Hist., plate, p. 24i. Edit, of 1707.— Burreli MSB. The ancient rectory-house has been surmised to have been a manor-house or palace occasional] j inhabited by Thomas. \ Becket. This is, of course, an interesting relic, but is not generally shown ; we saw it only by sufferance. The archi* tecture of the principal remains appears posterior to the year 1400 : one large and regularly built room is supf>osed to hare been the chapel, now used as a Sunday-school. We were ia- formed that about fifty years ago, the premises were far more extensive ; twenty bed-rooms are even spoken of, where there d06 COAST or »n$sEx. are now only two. Interest is still attached to a place of such celebrated associations, though the contrast is now both strange and cheerful ; part of the building is used as a dairy, and the whole is surrounded by a good kitchen^ garden interspersed with flowers, and all this where the lordly prelate walked gravely in amice and pall, incense was swung through the air, and prayers chaunted in a strange tongue- yet the most noble and musical of the ancient or modem worid. Tarring contains three hamlets, Heene, Darrington, and Salvington ; the second had a chapel, and the third was the birthplace and residence of the celebrated SELDEN, termed by his antagonist Grotius " the glory of the English nation/* Sir William Jones, in a letter to Mr. Cartwright, declared *' that he considered Selden so great an object of imitation, that if he could obtain a similar honour of representing the University of Oxford in Parliament, he would, like him, de- vote the rest of his life to the service of his constituents and his country, to the practice of an useful profession, and to the unremitted study of our English laws, history, and literature.'* Selden"'s house still remains at Salvington, very little larger than a cottage, with some curious old wood framework at the end. On the lintel of the door withinside are two lines, sup- posed to have been composed by himself, and cut by him in the wood ; but they are certainly the production of one of his most trifling and least happy moments, as they have not the slightest pretensions to wit or point of any kind. " ORATt's HONESTE, MIHI, no' CIJinBAB, INITO, SEDEQUS Z FDR areas; no' 0t' pacta soltta tiri." Es is wanting in the first line to make out the sense. A friend of Mr. Cartwright's contributed thb translation : — " Tbou'rt welcome, honest friend, walk in, make free; Thief, get thee gone, I open not to thee." The following would be more litend : — " Welcome, if honest,— enter, reat thee free; Thief, hence I I was not open made for thee." WORTHIKOii 9Gt Tarring, with its hamlets, contains about 1200 inhabitants. The church is a lofty and spacious structure, and has, with the exception of Chichester Cathedral, the best spire in the county ; it rises from a lofty and very well-built tower of the fourteenth century, is octagonal in form, and 137 feet from the ground ; on its summit is a conductor and a vane. The body has a long and very highly pitched nave, apparently nearly fifty feet, and two side aisles, with early Grothic arches and lancet windows ; the chancel is also forty feet by twenty-one, and has very good windows of the early part of the fifteenth century, the side ones of two lights, and the eastern of five, engraved in Cartwright, above which is a cross fleury. Some ancient staUs are in the chancel, but not equal to those at Broadwater. In the tower are five bells, in a still worse state than those at Shoreham, two of them being broken, and the remaining three only sounded by ropes tied to the clappers. The large old chest contains some very curious accounts of the churchwardens from 1515 to 1579, from which Mr. Cart- wright has made extensive extracts. At the entrance of the church a poors'" box bears the conciliating invitation, ** He that giveth to the poor lendeth," &c &c. The town appears reduced, and it is encouragement enough, in all such cases, that the interest is enormous and the security infallible. Worthing, during the " spirit stirring"" times of the anti- cipated French invasion, was a considerable station for mili- tary ; it has now only one troop of horse, belonging to the corps in head-quarters at Brighton. Of the various poetical effusions on the sea that have met our notice, we think some of the most fortunate have been those of Barry Cornwall, Hogg, and Cunningham ; but there is a morceau on this subject, " The Sea-Spirit's Song," by- Lord Thurlow, in the Gentleman's Magazine for 1816, which exhibits much ease and gracefulness. The following lines ap- peared, with initials similar to those of the author of this vo- lume, in the Cambridge Chronicle, 1823. 368 roAST OF snsssx. MIDNIGHT SONG OF THE NEREIDS. "Of Tethys'tace Our birUi we trace. And we roam o'er the Ocean's most beantiful face. In proad and pore dominioo; No nymph abore Can happier rove. Or spread to the redolent air of the grove The folds of her gossamer pinion. « Sweet is our home "Neath the salver foam, ' Through valleys of pearl and of amber we nnm. The secrets of ocean beholding: The azore flowers That deck our bowers Are as sweet as the wreaths of the light-footed Hoars, Wlien the portals of day are unfolding. " Round every dime Is our track sublime ; We sldm round the cold dreary mountains oi rime. That on Thule's shores are frowning; 'Neath iEtna's hd^ Is our pathway light. When sternly the sable abysses of nig^t His beacon of glory is crowning. "Ausonian vilet Have heard our tales. And we 've scented the flowery perfume that exhales From the islands of Araby streaming; At Ino's name To her shores we came; We have been where the Magian's altar of flame On Ecbatana's mountain is gleaming. « Latona'a iale Hath seen oar imile. And we watch'd as it sprung from the Ocean the while^ In the pale saffron lustre of even ; We sang its birth To the realms of earth. And we raised on the winds our wild chorus of mirth. Till it rang on the echoes of Heaven ! SONC. " Athena's Btniul Is our dearest land. And we joy o'er the pahns of her generoas band. When the trophies of ocean hare crown'd her. But AN ISLE SBAIX BB ' In the western sea. The queen of the deep, and the land of tbe fiee. And the glories of earth shall iauiuuimI her! " To Thetis dear Our vows we hear. And we braid with fresh garlands her beantifid ludr. When the foaming surge was o'er t hrt^ Leucothoe, We sang to thee;. And we laid thy fair Embs on the ooocfa of die «■, And we worship now before thee. '* To Nq>tune'« court We oft resort. Oft glad round his chrysoKte axks we spor^ As they roll o'er the snr£tce of ooein. The Triton's shdl Sounds the triumph well. And the gorgeous sea-monsters their fealty td^ As they gambol in joyous commotion. " Around thy car. Our Ocean Star, A^Tiere the bright snowy steeds and ifae di a dnn ar^ Our virgin troops are sailing. In frequent quire. Our aged Sire, We hail, to the notes of the sflrery lyre. When the rays on the mountain are fSuEng. — " But away, away ! — —For the fire of day From the gates of the Orient is banung! To our sport, or our aleepv In the bowers of the deep ; Till again in the moonlight our vigils we kee|^ When the shadows of ere are r rtnmny . " 8G9 I B B 370 COAST OF SUSftEX. TO LITTLEHAiMPTON AND BOGNOR. The route through these two places to Arundel is, of course, a yery devious one ; we merely took it in order to have a brief survey of each. The direct road from Worthing to Arundel is about ten miles, but contains not a single object of the least interest. The road to Littlehampton is not an unpleasant one, and passes through two or three villages, one of which. West Pres- ton, the burj'ing-place of Selden, has a rather curious slender town* and spire. LITTLEHAMPTON, although a very small village until the commencement of the present century, is a place of some ancient renown. Be- fore the Conquest, a small portion of it belonged to the Coun- tess Goda, daughter of Ethelred II., and afterwards the manor was principally in the hands of the foreign abbeys of Almanische and Seez, and also of the £arl of Mount Gomeri. A farm still called Baillie's Court, in a portion of the parish termed Athcrington, is mentioned in Pope Nicholas : " Balli de Ateriton, in Hampton, 19/. 7*. 2r2 COAST OF SUSSKX. passed through are Yapton and Felpham ; the church at the former contains this inscription : — " Sacred to the memory of Stephen Roe, Citizen of I^ondon, bom in this parish and buried at Islington, who by his will, dated Oct. 17, 1766, gave twelve hxmdred pounds (three per c«it. South Sea annuities) to the poor of this parish, yearly for ever. " The parent hence shall ne'er depart. But love each babe with joyful heart. To view this church stone. Here gratitude delights to dwell. And young and old shall always tdl The good that Roe has done. Soft pity now shall comfort woe. And ignorance have herself to knoWj By bounty taught and fed. Orphans and widows more and mor^ And cliildren yet unborn shall poor Their blessings on his head." Felpham, near Bognor, was the residence and burial- place of the celebrated Dr. Cyril Jackson, Dean of Christ- church, and of Hayley the poet. The epitaph for the former has simply the universally applicable sentence — " Enter not into judgment,'" &c. Mr. Hayley'^s has the following lines written by Mrs. Opie, with whom, as well as her husband, he was on intimate terms of friendship. " Hayley ! beloved friend ! tho' round thy bead The muse's wreath its graceful foliage spread ; Tho' Fame was long thy talents' rich reward. And Fashion smiled upon Serena's bard ; Tho' thou wast form'd in polished courts to shine. And learning's stores and playfid wit were thine; Tho' Cowper's self thy tuneful strains approved. And praised the poet whUe the man he loved, — Cowper, who lives in thy recording page. To interest, charm, and teach the future age; — Oh ! not on these alone thy honours rest. But, that'thy name pale want and misery bless'd! That, such thy glowing zeal for all mankind. So vast thy charity, so tmconfined. Thy hand had spread a scene of blessing round. If ample wealth thy ardent hopes had crown'd — That, whatsoe'er thy bounty could impart, "Was given to teach the mind, and cheer the heart ; Neglected talent's drooping head to raise. And lead young Genius on by generous praise. BOGNOE. 31ft Yet, bard beloved! this higher meed be thine. Faith in thy Saviour cheer'd thy life's decline, — Nor by that God on whom thy hopes relied Was the sweet recompense of faith denied. He gave thee strength to smile 'miflst torturing pain. And even the slightest murmur still restrain ; He cheer'd with pious hope thy dying bed; He, on thy soul the Christian's sonshine shed; And crown'd, to prove his favour's blest increase, A life of kindness with a death of ^ace." A punning epitaph by Mr. Hayley on a blacksmith at this place is recorded, but has not much point, independently of this not being a place for a jest. The best and most un- exceptionable of these which we have ever seen is on an in- dividual of the name of Strong, a carpenter, in the neighbour- hood of London. " Who many a sturdy oak had laid along, FelJ'd by death's surer hatchet, here lies Strong. Pvsis oft he made, yet ne'er a place could get*. And lived by ratlin fr^ though he was no wit\'. Old saws he had, although no antiquarian. And stiles corrected, yet was no grammarian." Bognor is situated in the parish of South Berstead, and con- tains about 1500 inhabitants. At the entrance, several neat villas excite rather high expectations, but the town itself is scattered • " Between you and I and the post" (though we never made one; they are not to be made in these times), gentle reader, we can sincerely sympathise with the worthy carpenter in this predicament. f What a great number of editors of periodicals are exactly in the same situation with the meritorious artificer ! The misfortune is that they do not recognise this to be the case : they mistake the acerbity which they really do possess (and in which they are sadly encouraged by the once better-tempered public of John Bull's island, who have now a cra\-ing appetite for bitters,) for genuine and praiseworthy wit : whereas Air. Strong did not conceive his humble wooden erections to be either rose-wood or cedar. — We have encountered accidentally a certain remarkably Ul-natured penny publication, styled, though it is no credit to name it, " Figaro in London," in wliich the editor, after blaming some dramatic error, asserts that " if it be not speedily remedied, oua critical avalanche must descend on their heads ! !*• Mercy upon the shivering and to-be-shivered sufferers ! " Threatened folks live long," to be sure, but their dread of the terrific impending punishment must be truly pitiable. The whole affair calls to mind the prime minister's character of a rebellion in the Isle of Man, — " A tempest in a tea-pot." &7i COA»T OF SrSSEX. and irregularly built. It owed its rise, about the year 1790, to a Sir John Hotham, a merchant of London, who erected the princijjal buildings. There are three or four good inns, and some respectable ranges of building, also baths, &c., and it may, doubtless, have its advantages to those who prefer quiet, and especially family parties. The oblong space open to the sea, somewhat ridiculously dignified with the appellatioa of ** the Steyne," is neat and cheerful ; here is the chapel of ease, a spacious cemented structure, and a small market. Binstead's library, opposite the sea, is pleasant, and has a lawn in front: beyond, towards the east, is a small battery ; another libraiy, farther inland, bears the title of having been patronised by the Princess Augusta. A physician and three surgeons are re- sident in Bognor. A few miles to the west of Bognor is the promontory and church of Selsea, forming the opposite extremity of the spacious bay, which Beachey Head terminates to the east. This was the place where Christianity was first preached to the South Saxons by Wilfrid, an exiled bishop of Lindisfam, to whom this peninsula was given by King iEdelwalch about the year C80, when he immediately liberated 250 persons then in a state of slavery*. He was confirmed in the possession of this tract, containing 5000 acres, by the conqueror of iSdel- walch, Ccadwalla, who afterwards, struck with remorse for his wars and bloodshed, made a pilgrimage to Rome, where he received baptism, and died, having first laid the foundation of and endowed the liishoprick of Sehey. At this place the sec continued uninterrupted till the year 1081, when William the Conqueror, in accordance with his plan in other places, on the advice of an Ecclesiastical Council, presided over by Lan- franc. Archbishop of Canterbury, removed it from this village to the town of Chichester. * Not go dreadful, it is to be hoped, *s that of the truly ruthless fmctarf masters, in the north of England, compared with whose connived at, if noC direct tyranny (now it is to be hoped on the c\-e of abolition), all West Indiaa tales sink into insignificance. BOGNOR. 375 Bognor Rocks are only conspicuous at low-wat^*, extending outwards two miles in length, and a quarter of a mile in width : the shore is gradually encroached upon by the sea, and is consequently protected by groins. Nine miles off this place are the Oar or Ore rocks, where, as a preventive against accidents which have before occurred, a vessel is kept moored, which in the daytime hoists a red flag, and at night hangs out large lanterns as a guide and warning to approaching mariners. The sea promenade at Bognor is extensive, but not well kept up ; it affords great facilities for fishing, and at Selsea are caught the best lobsters on this part of the coast. The view of the ocean at Bognor is singular ; it is so completely shut in by projections of land a few miles to the east and west, that it might be taken for a private lake belonging solely to the inhabitants of this vicinity. Near Bognor were discovered, in 1811, the spacious tessel- lated pavements of a magnificent Roman palace. A portion of these, representing the Rape of Ganymede, is finely engraved and coloured in Dallaway and Cartwright's History of the Rape of Arundel. ARUNDEL. GENERAL APPEARANCE. The most commanding approach to Arundel is on the side of Worthing, though the op|M>site view is also richly wooded. A strong impression of ancient, feudal, and ancestral gran- deur is presented by the stately front of the castl^ placed on a terrace on the right, with the old central keep towering high above it, and the whole enveloped in ancient trees, and contrasted in front by the river of scanty breadth but impe- tuous flow, the bridge and the lower part of the town ; whilst the tower, low spire, and flag-staff of the church appear on the summit of the principal and hilly street of the place. HISTORY OF THE CASTLE AND TO^VN. The earliest conjectural accounts, in which a tendency to fabulous exaggeration may be pardoned, ascribe the name of this place to " Hirondelle," a swallow, which is still the arms of the town, though the origin of the bearing is not known. Others assert that the celebrated Bevis of Hampton (south), the conqueror of the giant Ascapart, and hero of ancient romances, who is supposed to have been keeper of the castle here, had a favourite horse, which for its swiftness he not only termed Hiro7idelle, or OrxcncLle, in Norman French, but also called the demesne after its name. These are theoretical trifles, though their very existence is interesting, carrying us back, if in fancy alone, to the region of romance and enchant- ment. King Alfred left Erundcle to his brother Athelm. By the Conqueror it was given to Roger de Mount-Gomeri, £arl of Alen(^on, who had been one of his best captains in the final engagement. Subsequently, through various muta- tions, it was in the hands of Adeliza, Queen of Henry I., and by her marriage, when a widow, it passed into the ARUNDEL. 377 family of Albini, afterwards into those of Fitzalan atid Maltravers, finally into the Mowbray's, by marriage with an heiress. Philip de Mowbray, in the reign of Elizabeth, was summoned as Earl of Arundel, by tenure of the castle only. The family of Howard are descended from a judge of the Common Pleas, in the reign of Edward I.; a conjec- tural Saxon origin has also been assigned to them at an early epoch. The castle was certainly in existence before the Conquest. It was besieged in 1102 by Henry I., but capitulated on the understanding that Robert de Belesine should retire to Normandy. In 1139, the Empress Maud or Matilda, having landed at LittlehamptcNi, repaired to Arundel Castle, and was received by Queen Adeliza, who was not unfavourable to her views. Stephen attacked the castle, but yielding to the remonstrances of Adeliza, who pleaded the rights of hospitality, suffered the Empress to withdraw to Bristol. King Edward I. was entertained here as a guest In 1397 it was the scene of a confederation against Richard II , but their proceedings being betrayed to the monarch by the EarFs son-in-law, he was attainted and beheaded. On the death of the Duke of Norfolk, in 157~, whose name is intermingled with the destiny of the unfortunate Queen of Scots, perhaps guilty to a certain degree, but certainly miserably ill-used by her unfeminine and despotic sister, Elizabeth, his son continued Earl of Arundel by patent, but he also, on suspicion of treasonable practices, was attainted and executed in the year 1585; when an inventory of the furniture of the castle, which included very splendid hangings of silk and gold, was taken for Lord Burleigh, and is copied in the diffusive account of Mr. Dallaway, to which we must refer our readers for minute particulars of this neighbourhood. The family were restored by James I., and in 1G14, the castle was besieged and taken by capitulation, but plundered by the Parliamen* tary forces, the celebrated Chillingworth lending his skill to the defence, which lasted for seventeen days. The strength of the walls and outworks did not, however, answer the 378 COAST OF SUSSKX. general expectation. From this period till the repidr by the late Duke of Norfolk, the castle remained in an imper- fect state, and used only as an occasional residence. It is entirely beyond our power and limits to enter here into an account of the celebrated family of the Mowbrays, Dukes of Norfolk, who are, to some extent, known to all who are familiar with the History of England, or the poetically attired chronicles of Shakspeare. We might dwell long on the inter- esting fortunes of the Earl of Surrey, one of the first improvers of the musical rythm of England ; but we could say nothing which has not been often told of the almost hopeless, yet im- passioned lover of the fair, though not, in comparison with his merits, worthy, Geraldine. SONNET IN FUAISE OF THE FAIR GERALDINE. BY HENRY HOWARD, EARL OF SD&REY. lAbottt 1640.J From Tuscanc came my lady's worthy race. Fair Florence was sometime her ancient seat; The W^estern Isle, whose pleasant shore doth face Wild Camber's cliffs, did give her lively heat. Fosteretl she was, with milk of Irish breast: Her sire, an earl ; her dame, of prince's blood; From tender years, in Britain she doth rest. With King's child, * where she tasteth costly food. Honsdon did first present her to mine eyn ; Bright is her hue, and Geraldine she hig^L Hampton me taught to wish her first for mine. And AV'indsor, alas ! doth chase me fix>m her si^t. Her beauty of kind, t her virtue from above ; Happy is he that can obtain her love ! We have been informed that there is still an Earl of Surrey, who is not without the gallant, chivalrous, and generous spirit of his ancestors ; but who, more fortunate than his illustrious namesake, has obtained the hand of the Geraldine who was the object of his affections. • Maid of honour to the Princess Mary. t Of consanguinity, i, e. derived from her ancestors. ARUNDEL. 379 TOWN. Anindel had a grant for a fdr soon after the year ISOO, which was extended to three by Edward I., and has returned two members to parliament since his reign, losing one in the present year. It has a market every Thursday, and a cattle market every alternate Tuesday. The charter under which the corjxjration of a mayor and twelve burgesses subsists bears date 1586. They are possessed of two silver gilt maces. The town was formerly surrounded by walls: in 1339» half of it was consumed by fire, when the inhabitants wexe excused from taxes for that year. After the parliamentary siege, an allowance was made to some individuals who were favoured by the commissioners. The College adjoining the church was founded by Robot, Earl of Arundel, in 1387, pursuant to the will of his father ; dissolved at the Reformation, but granted by patent to the founder's family. Its present dilapidated state is partly owing to the devastations of the parliamentary soldiers. There was also the hospital of jMaison Dieu, or of the Holy Trinity, very liberally endowed for 20 poor men and a' master, who was to be an ecclesiastic. This also was dissolved at the Reformation, and the possessions, which were nearly ,£200 per annum, then a splendid endowment, re-granted by patent (but for which it would seem probable that something had been paid to the king, who was not destitute of avarice) to the heirs of the founder ; this, also, was dilapidated by Sir William Waller's soldiers, who occupied it during the siege. The Bridge was founded by Queen Adeliza, in the twelfth century, built of wood, and a causeway (CalcetumJ erected, of a mile in length, with a Priory, " De Calceto^ at the end ; the monks receiving the tolls kept the bridge in good order. It was several times repaired in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, and, in 1742, was handsomely rebuilt of stone by the Hon. James Lumley, representative for the borough. 380 COAST OF SUSSEX. DESCRIPTION. Arundel is a tolerably neat town, of no great apparent extent, enlivened by its river, which is the means of considerable trafRc in coals and cum between London and the Mediterra- nean. Ships of 150 tons, drawing 16 feet water, can come up as far as the bridge ; and a trade is carried on still further up, by means of a canal which connects the Arun with the Thames. The name of this river instantaneously recalls the sweet and amiable poet, who sang on its banks ; — " — Wild Aran too has heard thy strain. And echo on my native plain. Been soothed by pity's lute." The town has several good inns, the principal of which is the Norfolk Arms, which has a good assembly-room ; a small theatre, library, &c. &c. The population in 1831 was 2803. At the upper end of the town and nearly opposite the castle- gate is the Church, a spacious, solid, and handsome edifice, cruciform, with a low but well-built tower in the centre, whose obtuse leaden spire is painted white, and has a flagsta£P on its apex as a guide to vessels at sea. Including the large sepul- chral chapel of the Norfolk family at the east end, formerly united to the college, it is the largest church in the cuun^, measuring upwards of 190 feet in length. Its architecture is principally that of the 14th century, with insertions of the 15th. The spacious nave is about 90 feet by 60, and has quatrefoilsin circles for its clerestory windows. The tower is about 26 feet square, and contains a gallery supporting the fine and beautiful organ, which, with its choir organ in front, is esti- mated to be worth cjPISOO, and was purchased by subscription. This variety of position is seen in Ludlow church, Salop, and a few others not collegiate ; it is here very effective, as it leaves the fine length of the nave unencumbered. Irish oak is the almost indestructible material of the roof. The whole of the body is very neatly fitted up; at the back of the corporation seat is a small painting on glass of the town arms, and at the south- cast corner a rich stone tabernacled pulpit, now disused for that ABCNDEL. S8X purpose. In the tower are six bells, and a small musical clock-bell hangs on the outside. The altar and communion-table are on the east side of the south transept ; this is however not the fault of the Duke of Norfolk, as the altar was placed here before the Reformation. On one of its sides is a tablet for a young child of the present Rector : " Innocens et perbeatus, more flomm deddi ; Quid fles sepaltam, Tiator? flente sum feUdor." Underneath is inscribed, ** Suffer little children," &c. &c Consang-uinei or amid, might have been more applicable; the tears of the traveller for one so young, whom he had never seen, could not be expected. We have now to speak of the Norfolk chapel at the east end, which forms a nave and north aisle, 75 feet in length, divided by three fine arches, and exhibiting some beautiful windows of the 14th and 15th centuries, with a grand one of seven divi- sions at the east end. Nothing has astonished, and must still astonish, the visitor more than to see the miserable state of neglect and decay in which this fine building and its rich monuments have long remained; it is the more incomprehensible, as there is no want of liberality in all the arrangements respecting the castle. We understood however that there was at length some expectation of repairs being undertaken, as the monument for the brother of the present Duke, which was executed at Rome, remains in packing-cases on the floor. But a great deal of the mischief is irretrievable. The fine carved and gilt oak ceiling fell down for want of repairs, and is now replaced by a common boarded one ; and as the windows have been long almost destitute of glass, all the ornaments of the interior have suffered grievous injury. Some of the monu- ments are grand and interesting, exhibiting rich altar-tombs with minute ornaments, and lofty canopied erections with arches and pillars of the fanciful style which prevailed at the first introduction of Italian sculptures, here in one or two instances almost approaching to the airiness of the Oriental. The churchyard is walled round in a lofty and neat style. At I 3S2 COAST OK SUSSEX. its south-east angle are various buildings of the old college ; a school with turrets ; and a small Uoraan Catholic chapel. CASTLE, The total sum expended by the late munificent Duke of Norfolk on the new buildings was, as we understand, not less than .3^600,000. A part, nearly amounting we believe to half of this sum, originated in the following curious circumstance : certain rents had been long in arrear, which were by original deed to be applied to the repairs of Arundel castle; and the tenants, rather doggedly certainly, refused to pay them unless they were applied to this precise purpose. The Duke there- upon not only fulfilled the condition, but added that liberal expenditure which has produced so splendid an effect. The Great Court is only built on three sides, the fourtli rising on an ascent to the keep and the beautiful flower and fruit garden beyond it enclosed within the walls. A terrace runs round the south and east sides ; the former, which has a beautiful view over the river and surrounding country, is represented in our Vignette. The entrance tower, which has bold arches and machicol- lations, was intended to have had elegant bartisan turrets hanging round its comer towers; unfortunately it has not been finished, but roofed in, in a very poor style. The same remark applies, as we understand, to the interior of a Catholic chajjel of the Tudor aera at the right of the entrance, which has externally much ornamental tracery. The east and south sides are very handsome ; the former exhibits a large and bold rehef in artificial stone of " Alfred instituting the Trial by Jury," with a Saxon legend explaining the purport : beneath are four rich early Norman arches. In the upper part of this side is the handsome library, externally decorated with carved windows, an oriel, machicollations, open parapet, curiously-wrought corbels, and round turrets. The eastern side has the principal entrance, — a deep and grand Norman arch, above which are three tiers of windows, flanked by turrets, and two statues, in niches, of Liberty and Hospi- ARUKDEL. 383 tality ; the latter, by the way, is not very intelligible. To enter into a description of the various ornaments of this grand front would far exceed our limits. The lofty and commanding keep is a spacious round tower, between 60 and 70 feet in diameter, approached by an inclined plane from one of the ancient towers of the base-court. The remains of antiquity in this part of the building will please and detain the attention of the visitor ; within its area are one or two subterranean excavations, not yet fully explored ; and in a neighbouring tower is a well of great diameter, formerly 300 feet deep, but now partly filled up, the apf)earance of which is described as awful and terrific. From the keep is a beautiful view south-east and west; whilst the prospect of the very pretty garden within the walls, devoted both to flowers and fruit, was to us by no means less pleasing. We never felt the expression of the Latin term apricus more vividly than whilst looking at this scene ; and we thought that either here or on the terrace a person must be either leaden-spirited or irretrievably unhappy, who did not, for the time at least, experience a soothing influence in the view from Arundel Castle. The curious Australian owls kept within the circuit of this tower are not the least of the novelties which will detain the visitor's attention, who could not imagine, till he had seen them, that this species of bird was found in such size and beauty. They are larger than a turkey, measuring four feet across their wings when expanded, and their size, and brilliancy of their " visual orbs,'" are of the most striking character. They are not remarkably tame. An amusing anecdote is related regarding one of the finest Ovihsses, in the time of the late Duke of Norfolk, which was called, by a great misnomer certainly, '* Lord TTiurlow."" It happened that the celebrated chancellor of that name was dangerously ill, and much political anticipation was thereby occasioned. One of the attendants advanced hastily, and out of breath, to the Duke, early in the morning, — " Please your Grace, Lord Thurlow " " Well," said the Duke, ♦* what's the news — is he better or worse ? " — " Please your Grace **— ^ 384- COAST OK SUSSEX. answered the man — ^^just laid an egg! ^ — quite unconscious of the amazement he should excite by his rtud a propos reply. INTERIOR. VESTIBULE. A very handsome double stone staircase, having polished brass railings with splendid mahogany architraves, leads under a vaulted and fretted roof into the GALLERY, which is 195 feet long and 12 feet broad, floored with oak, with doors, window cases and linings, and wainscottings, as all the other rooms, of the Jinest polished mahogany more than an inch in thickness. No decoration of this castle has a more novel and startling effect than this ; to see such a costly wood used with the most lavish profusion in every part of the rooms, some of which have even carved ceilings of the same material. The late Duke purchased a large ship-load of this valuable wood, which turned out to be some of the finest ever imported into England. In this gallery are some curious old gilt chairs, lined with worked velvet emblazoned with armorial bearings. BARONS' HALL, 1 15 feet in length and 35 in width, ceiled with chestnut, has never been completed, and its walls are temporarily covered with red cloth. At the end is a large and magnificent window of stained glass, representing the signing of Magna Charta, of excellent corn* position, and correct historical costumes and accompaniments. Fitz waiter, the principal Baron, is a likeness of the late Duke of Norfolk. In the side windows are also whole length armed figures, painted in brilliant colours, relieved by fine perspective. This room was opened in the year 1815, with a magnificent entertainment of ancient splendour to upwards of 300 persons*. • " From the sublime to the ridiculous there is but a step." Mr. C. Wright, author of a " History of Arundel," and " The Brighton Ambulator," declares that " it was a feast of which the Gods might have partaken, and been satisfied ! " What a cruel pity then that they were not invited to " take their fill ! " Mes> sieurs Jupiter, Apollo, &c. Mesdames Juno and Venus, and all the rest of them. Provided always, thnt they should be dressed decorously, after the court fashion of the earth ; and that if Bacchus was noisy, Jupiter bhould send him down stairs. AEUNDEL. 385 The cfaimnej-piece is of fine statuary marble, bearing the head of Neptune, and various marine emblems. Some ancient pieces of armour are also kept here, one of which is said to have been the identical sword o( Bcvis. THE DRAWING ROOM, 54 feet bj 28, is hung with crimson velvet, edged with gold mouldings, has a fine white marble chimney-piece, and some handsome pier-glassesw The numerous paintings are prinapaDy family portraits, among which is a fine one of the cdd>rated £arl of Surrey ; but at the east end is an historical painting 10 feet, representing the £arl of the time of Henry VII. de- fending himself before that monarch, for having taken the part of Richard III. The countenances of both the king and the warrior are very fine, and the Princess Elizabeth, in the back ground, who holds the red rose in her hand, is a lovely and interesting figure. DINING-ROOM, *Sfeet by 24. A very handsome painted window, 20 feet by 10, decorates the end of this apartment, representing an entertainmoit given by Solomon to the Queen of Sheba, with many auxiliary figures. The countenance of the former is a portrait of the late Duke of Norfolk, and that of the Queen, of L.ady Frances Fitzroy, his wife; the latter figure has an elegant ^fect, but the precise expression which the painter has chosen to give to the Duke is by no means suited to Solomon ; it is too Baccha- nalian. On each side, at this end of the room, is an oblong window, of plate-glass, designed to assist the effect of the larger: in their centres are small transparencies of painted glass, the left representing the Mercy Seat in the Tabemade; and the right, the interior of the Tabernacle. There are, also, in this room two fresco paintings, by Le Brun, imitating sculpture with the most astcnishing success, almost inducing, at a little distance, a doubt of the real execution, — Adam and Eve, with the serpent, in Paradise, and the Four Seasons. At the opposite extremity to the painted window is a carved gal- lery for music c c 38G COAST OF SUSSEX. PRINCE REGENT'S BED-ROOM is hung with magnificent cut velvet, ». e. flowers of red and green, &c. in velvet, raised on a ground of white satin ; with gold mouldings and other ornaments : the bed has fine reeded pillars, and a rich gothic canopy. EARL MARSHAL'S BEDl-ROOM has also splendid furniture, and a bedstead of nearly equal beauty, with curtains of crimson damask silk ; some curiously worked chairs ; a rich India cabinet, and a fine marble diim- ney-piecc, said to represent Seneca holding the plough: — Surely this is a mistake: we never heard of that philosopher's agricultural tal^its. THE BREAKFAST BOOM has windows of plate-glass, commanding a fine view over the river. It contains some fine portraits, including one of Oliver Cromwell, by Rubens ; and a likeness of Cardinal Howard, almoner to Catherine, Queen of Charles II-, who died at Rome in 1694, leaving an estimable character for moderation and benevolence. There are also two fine paintings by Hogarth, a view of the old castle, and a design in Covent-garden Mar- ket, exhibiting the painter's fancy and humour. Our limits will not allow us to particularize many smaller elegant apartments adorned with paintings and rich furniture. In one of the rooms is a bed, said ta have been used by the Empress Maud, which, amidst modem additions and repairs, cont£uns a small portion of the originaL THE LIBRARY, VSaJeH by 24. The whole of the walls, galleries, pillars, and fan-tracery ceiling of this noble room are composed of the richest maho- gany, wrought in the most exquisite style of architectural carving, and ornaments of fruit and flowers ; the floor alone is of oak, and the linings of some of the closets of cedar. The tout ensemble is magnificent, exhibiting in costly wood, carvings similar to the finest specimens in the cathedrals, or in Henry Vllth's chapel. Two or three stately white marble chimney- ARUNDEL. S87 pieties are decorated with noble Termini, representing heads of Homer, Sophocles, &c. We must leave this simple descrip- tion to be extended by the fancy of the reader : were we to enter into details, we should only weaken its effect. ARUNDEL MARBLE& When briefly alluding to the general military and political renown of this family, we should have singled out one in- dividual eminently distinguished for his taste in the fine arts ' and classical antiquities, through whose munificent and enter- prising spirit the Arundelian marbles, a far more valuable collection than Lord Elgin's, were brought from Samos, and in addition to affording interesting specimens of ancient sculpture, have been of the very highest importance in settling the canons of Greek chronology. This earl was ambassador to the im- perial diet for the election of an Emperor of the Romans in 16iJ() ; when, by his generous spirit, and his avidity for collect- ing objects of curiosity, he is said to have expended 90,00(ML, then a much more considerable sum than at present, in the course of nine months. At the rebellion, his collection was removed to Antwerp : having been, after his death, placed at Norfolk House, in the Strand, some part was accidentally damaged by the fall of a wall, and the principal portion of the remainder coming into the possession of the Earl of Pomfret, was, by his countess, presented to the University of Oxford. In addition to his splendid patronage of art, and enter- prising travels, this earl was the friend and encourager of Sir Robert Cotton, Sir Henry Spelman, Camden, and other cha- racters of worth and learning. The arms of the Duke of Norfolk, hereditary Earl Marshal, Earl of Arundel, Surrey, &c. &c. &c., premier Duke, Baroo, and Earl of England, are divided into four grand quarters : — Howard ; Brotherton, Earl of Norfolk ; Wan-en, Earl of Sur- rey ; Mowbray, Duke of Norfolk. The former has an aug- mentation granted after the victory of Flodden. Crests. — Or on a chapeau gules^ turned-up ermine, n Lion c c 2 888 COAST OF SDSSEX. Statant guardant, or, gorged with a ducal coronet, argent. This was the crest of Thomas Brotherton, fifth son of Ed- ward I. Another, that of Arundel, is, on a wreath, a Mount vert, surmounted by a Horse passant, argent, holding in his mouth a slip of oak, fructed proper. Supporters. — On the dexter side, a Lion, on the sinister, a Horse, both argent, the latter holding a slip of oak, as before. Motto: ** SOLA VIETUS INVICTA." The superficies of the site of the castle is 950 feet by 250, enclosing five acres and a half; but it is said to have, in remote times, included upwards of a mile. The Park *^* is seven miles in circuit, and contains a va- riety of ornamental buildings, all in the gothic or castellated style : it is also beautifully wooded, and has a herd of one thousand deer. The road from Arundel to Chichester contains no object of interest. At least we trust the reader will not meet with the variety we did, which was near costing us a life, and depriv- ing the world of this (valuable) book. " Ille et nefasto te 'Junxit,' dieT Let him beware of the cupidity and want of principle of those who let out to the traveller dilapidated horses. By the intervention of such an occurrence, our notices of this western extremity were much abridged, especially that of Chichester. Yet the memoranda of Goodwood, though hastily written whilst suffering illness, were accompanied by a feeling of gratification, the invariable result of elegance and symmetry, which dulled the sense of pain. CHICHESTER. HISTORY. Chichester is supposed, on good authority, to have been the ancient RegTium, founded by Cogi, a British chief, who, hav- ing assisted the Romans in repelling the Dobuni, added, like Caius Marcius, an adjunct to his name, and termed himself Cogi-dubuntis. A stone tablet was discovered in the year 1723, bearing the following inscription, which was afterwards removed to Goodwood, and placed in a small temple erected to receive it, with a bust of Cogidubunus on its summit: " NEPTUNO ET IIINERVJS TEHFUTM FRO SALUTE DOMU8 nWUtM EX AUCTORITATE IHP. TI. CLAOD. ET COGIDUBM REGIS LEGAL, IN BRIT. COLLEGIUM FABROR *, ET QUI IN BO ET SACRIS TEI. HONORATI BUNT OE SUO DEDICAVERUNT DONANTE ASBAM PUDENTB FUDENTINI Ttu" " As to the Roman settlement at Chichester, I am dear that it mast be the earliest, the first or second in Britain : the inscription is ondoobtedly the oldest inscription that has been discovered in Great Britain, the inter- nal marks carry it very high. The dedication of this temple to Neptune^ ' ob salutem Domds Divina,' must be, most probably, for Clandios's safe return to Rome, for we hear of no other Emperor till long after. It agrees very well with the remarkable inscription in the Barbarini palace at • " Collegium Fabrorum was as ancient at Rome as the reign of Niuna Pompilius. It included all workmen concerned in any kin4 of buildings Fabd, Ferrarii, Tignarii, Matenarii, Navales, iic."—DaBawajf. S90 COAST OF SUSSEX. Rome, with the accoants given by Tadtns and Suetofiias, that the Ide of White (bic) was subdued in Claudius's time, and consequently this part of our island. It was erected certainly in Gjgidubnus's lifetime; but he lived till Tacitus was in Britain with his uncle Agricola, between anno 70 and 85. Tadtus's account implies, that Cc^dubnus had been some years in that office, because he says, * Ad noetram usque ctatem BdiKi- mus.' From A.D. 43 to 70 is but 27 years, if so, 80, bat 37, which is but reasonable allowance, and consequently fixes this marble to the i^ of Claudius." " Mr. Gale's acooont in HarMeley, concerning the Ptidems of tlus inaa^ tion, and the Clamdia of 3fartial, are all very probaMe. And my fttfaer has vindicated the use of Domus Divinae, from the idle ercepticos of Mr. Ward."— Willingdon, April 3, 1771.— Letter from Edw. Oaike to Sir W. K—Burren MSS. A few of the words, or portions of words, in this inscription, as we have printed it, are conjectural, and some antiquaries have supplied them rather differently. Full discussions on this subject are contained in No. 379 of the Philosophical Transactions, and Stukely's Itinerary, at Plate XLIX. Claudius had been honoured with a triumph at Rcxne, for having crossed the sea (no great naval exploit, certainly,) in a successful expedition from Gaul to Britain. " A.D. 46. This year Claudius, the second of the Roman cmperorB who invaded Britain, took the greater part of the island into his power, and added the Orkneys to the dominion of the Romans. This was in the fourth year of his reign. And in the same year happened the great £unine in Syria which Luke mentions in the book called The Acts of the Apostles. After Claudius, Nero succeeded to the empire, who almost lost the island, Britain, through his incapacity." — Saxom Chronicle, A second tablet of the same %ra was discovered about twenty years since : ** irEBom cuicDio Dm cLAvnn AUO. F. OEKXJUnCI ess. KETOn TI. GJBS Ava. PBONETon nrr. auo. ABNEPOTI CSSARI ACO. SEKM. K.R.r. IV. IMT. ▼. COS. IV. ■OLVI CVRAVIT TOTTH MSRITa.' CHICUESTEB. 391 And a third in 1823, a votive altar, which is also in the pos- session of the Duke of Richmond : " SEKIO & (fto) ixce%AJO% XMMnci Tnu D. r. * (dedicavH pmbliccj LucuUus was AgncoIa*s lieutenant, and succeeded to the- chief command after his death. Tlie principality of the Regni, including Sussex and Kent, was in the family of Cogidubnus till the time of Lucius, one of the generally supposed founders of Christianity in Britain, and the last of its native princes, A. D. 165. The modern name of Chichester is derived from Cissa, son of ^lla, who, succeetling his father, made it the place of his abode — hence called Cissa-ceastre. He died in 577, aged 117; and some have thought it probable that he was buried at Cis»- bury, a favourite retreat ; but this idea is merely conjecturaL " A.D. 477. This year came Ella to Britain, with his three sons, Cf~ men, and ^Vleoking , and Cissa, in three shijis ; landing at a place dist h called Cymensbore •• There they slew many of the Welsh (British) ; and some in flight they drove into the wood that is called Andred's-ley." " A.D. 485. This year Ella fought with the AVdsh (British) nigh Me- cred's-Bumsted .' " A,D. 490. This year EDa and Cissa besieged the dty of Andied, and slew all that were therein ; nor was one Briton left there afterwanb.'-~ Saxon Chronicle. Chichester remained unnoticed and of moderate oonseqtienoe till the removal of the see from Selsca by William the Con- queror: the town was bestowed on Roger de Montgomer]^, Earl of Alen*< nV/Zmny, near SeU*j- and Chichester. 392 COAST OF SVS8EX. was ordered to be demolished by King John, but the sentence was not carried into effect till the first year of Henry III., 1216. A Franciscan convent was founded on its site, which, at the dissolution, was granted to the corporation of the city, and the property has lately been purchased by the Duke of Richmond. Great part of the city with the cathedral was destroyed by fire iu the years 1114 and 1186. Various successive charters were granted by different mcHiarchs, commencing with Stephen and ending with James II. Chichester was occupied by the royalists under Sir Edward Ford, sheriff of the a>unty, in 1642; besieged by Sir WiUiam Waller, and taken after eight days' siege in the month of December. It is believed that the inhabitants made a com- promise with the soldiers of the amount of one month's pay to prevent their being plundered; but the cathedral and all its ad- juncts were severely devastated, and the houses of the rccially, has an air of ancient and solid respectability. The population in 1831 was 8270. CHICHESTER. 398 CATHEDRAL. This edifice is indubitably one of the least considerable and handsome cathedrals in England. Its principal objects of cu- riosity are its elegant spire, the^y^ aisles of its nave, and the paintings in the south transept. The original church was begun by Bishop Ralph in 1091, but nearly destroyed, whilst yet un- finished, by a fire in 1114; rebuilt by the aid of pecuniary assistance from Henry I., but a second time extenavely in- jured by fire in 1186. It was then restored by Bishop Seflrid, who rebuilt the parts which had been consumed, and added an upper triforium or gallery to the clerestory of the nave, which remained uninjured, but, as seen at the present day, is so exceedingly clumsy, that it is to be regretted it had not been destroyed ; the lower part is in better style, and the new gallery lighter and approaching to the Gothic. The parts of the church, east of the central tower, are supposed to have been erected in the thirteenth and beginning of the fourteenth century, of which era also is the spire, and the north-west bell-tower: the spire has been sometimes conjectured, from a degree of similarity in appearance, to have been erected by the same artist as that of Salisbury. The three sides of cloisters and several of the windows are of later date. EXTERNAL APPEARANCE AND DIMENSIONa The actual length from east to west, exclusive of the Lady Chapel, now the library, is 325 feet, but the latter, including its vestibule, is 79, making a total of 404. The nave is 151 feet from west to east, tower, 34, choir, 100, and presbytery, 40. The transept is 129 feet by 34-: width of the nave, — centre aisle, 26 feet, two original side aisles, 12 feet each, two outer ones, 14do. ; total, 78* : height of centre aisle, 61^; of • Mr. Dallaway turns up the width thus; nave, 97 feet; choir, 60; which has been copied in a Chichester Guide : it is scarcely necessary to add that if the items are right, the sum is in both cases decidedly wrong. We beg to add that we have the highest respect for Mr. Dallaway's work in general, but thi« is one of the most extraordinary errors we ever witnessed, and it WM quite by accident that we thought of examiuing it. 39i COAST OF SOMEX. the choir, 59 ; breadth, with its two aisles, 50 ; height of the spire, to the finial under the weathercock, 271 ; height of the south-west tower, 100 feet; of the campanile or bell- tower, 120 ; dimensions of the cloister, — west side, 84 feet by 14i ; south, 198 by 10 feet 4; east, 122 feet 4 by 10 feet 3. A good north view of this cathedral is now opened by re- moving several houses; still the south-west continues to be the most picturesque, being aided both by the cloisters and the solidly handsome Norman tower remaining at this angle, which is well decorated with arches and strong buttresses, and has an elegant Norman arch at the bottom of its southern face. The transepts are without aisles, but have large and rich windows of the Tudor aera : that in the south transept, inserted b}' Bishop Sherborne, has some resemblance to the architecture of Rouen cathedraL The windows of the outer aisles are large and neat; those of the clerestory, Norman. Plain flying buttresses strengthen it from the side aisles, and it has a bold parapet with very neat corbels and some handsome spiral pinnacles in the eastern division. The centre embattled tower has large and handsome early Gothic windows now blank| comer turrets, and others of a light character, rising at the base of the spire ; the latter is ribbed at the angles, has hand- some canopied windows at its base, and two rich and broad bands of fretwork at different stages of its height The cloisters have spacious windows of the fifteenth century filled with mullions and tracery. About 20 feet north-west of the end of the church is the Campanile, a very heavy structure, which appears to much greater advantage at a small distance than when viewed closely : it is built of friable stone, and its lower part is in a dirty and neglected state. The upper story rises to an octagonal turret, guarded by flying buttresses from small turrets at the angles of the tower. It contains seven bells, not remarkably well-toned, the tenor weighing twenty- three cwt. ; and these are seldom used except on Sundays, a single bell in the spire steeple tolling to prayers, which has rather a dull effect. CHICHESTKX. 995 INTERIOR. At the west eud of the nave is a handsome pordi, widi a large window in a barbarously modem and incongruous stjle. The view of the nave at the entrance, when the outer aisles not seen, is heavy and unprepossessing ; the lower arches not altogether unpleasing, but the double arches of the fint gallery are very ugly ; the upj>er trifbria^ which are earij Gothic, and have palm-tree capitals, an ornament introduced after the £rst crusade as a memorial of Palestine, are modi neater, and the pointed vaulting of the roof, which ^>riiigs from light pilasters running up the face of the clefestorj, though very plain, is well proportioned and has neat kej- stones. The prospect is terminated under the tower by a loAy, plain stone screen, with a large organ, the pipes of which, on this side, not being imitative of gold, but yellow marble, hare a very dull effect. ^VTien we proceed laterally, however, to the outer aisles, which were erected principally to oontaia oratories and chantries, something better meets our yiew, in the fine arches and elegant clustered columns of the earij Gothic, though by no means equal to those of Shoreham. The choir, which includes the great tower with its lofty but plain circular arches, is 134 feet long, and displays the stalls erected by Bishop Sherborne at the beginning of the sisteenth century, profusely gilt, but painted of an unfortunately dull chocolate colour ; in front are the names of the prebendaries, and some other inscriptions in very fine old characters ; a neat wainscot altar screen with panels of crimson velvet terminates the east end. The choir is paved with marble, in which respect it has a great superiority over the nave ; its architecture is dmiiar, with the exception of the omission of the outer side aisles; its ancient organ has a very full and grand tone. The presbyteiy, beyond the altar screen, consisting of two arches only (there are eight in the nave and three in the choir, exclusive of the tower), has rich and noble architectural features; the clustered columns Iwlow of Petworth ninrblo, with isolated pilasters round a central shaft, and finely wrought double arches of the S96 COAST or SUSSEX. gallery above, which enclose a small representation of the Sai- vator Mundi, are entilled to unmixed praise. The want of any stained glass at this end of the church must be senidbly felt by the spectator. Below the east window commences the vestibule of the library, which has, externally, very lninfetition of Wilfrid. The idng, attended by a train of courtiers, is coming forward on the steps of a large palace, and is met by Wilfrid, with the monks of the monastery of Selsey ; the church and the peninsula appear in the back -ground. Wilfrid holds a scroll, inscribed ♦* jBh strbis Bri loot' ftabitationis propter Btum." — " Give to the servants of God a place of habitation, for the sake of God." The king points with one hand to an open illuminated book, in which is written " Jptat sicut pcttttir" — ** be it as it is re- quested.'' The second painting represents Shurbome, at- tended by his ecclesiastics, petitioning Henry VII. for a con- firmation of the charter granted by Ceadwalla, whilst, by an absurd anachronism, Henry VIII. is introduced as standing by him, and granting the petition. The bishop displays a scroll, inscribed " ^amlissime rtx, p'ptrr l(cu', tolua ecdesui* tua' CitcstTcn ia' catftrtrak, sicut CTfWDalla rtx S'wssti Bc- clfsia ^flrsitn olim tattctJralc toluabit."— "Most sacred King, for the sake of God, confirm now thy church of Chichester as a cathedral, as formerly Ceadwalla, King of Sussex, confirmed the church of Selsey as a cathedral." The king points, as be- fore, to a book inscribed " ^ro amort ifiu xri ([ti prtK tOUtttoJ** — ** For the love of Jesus Christ, what you ask I grant." In both of these paintings are many curious and elaborate accom- paniments. At the bottom of one is inscribed, within a bordor, ^nrtUS^gaafribus; and, under the other, Bishop Shurbome's motto — ** ©peribus crtllltf ." These paintings were scratched and defaced by the swords of the parliamentary soldiers, and afterwards repaired by an inferior artist ; but they are still justly considered as very fine early specimens of painting; the perspective of both is very good, and the colouring not only rich, but in good keeping ; the figures and countenances, espe- cially in the latter, are such as would not disgrace a superior limner of the present day% I' 398 COAST OF SUSSKX. " The historical painting in the south transept is said to be the work of one Bemardi, an Itaban, who came into England with Bishop Sherborne. Painting was then brought to its highest perfection in Italy, and very pro- bably the man might be a disciple of some of the great masters. The pio- ture is certainly not Holbein's. I could venture to affirm this by what I have seen of Holbein's work at Cowdry. He was eminent for colouring and expression, but had no notion of perspective, and very little of com- position. His landscapes are so ill-designed, that his very towers seem to be in ambush, and the horsemen who besiege them are big enough to ride over the walls. ^Vhat this picture was for colouring and expression before it was so much defaced in the great rebellion, there is no knowing; hnt the manner is quite different from Holbein's ; the perspective is not b«d ; the architecture excellent ; and the figures are in general well disposed in the picture. I should make no question but the tradition here is the tnie account of it"— Rev. W. Ci.arke.— .Surretf MSS. The small portraits, which have a rather pleasing appearance from their being surrounded by gilt oval rims on a dark ground, exhibit, on the east side, representations of various Bishops of Chichester, some with ancient legendary inscrip- tions; and, on the other side, a very tolerable series of the kings of England, from the Conquest, above which is in- scribed — " Conjitcantur iibi omnes Reges^' " Tlecta est via qticc duett ad vitam." The portraits have been regularly continued, and end with the good-humoured and benevolent countenance of George III. On the north side of this transept is the tomb of St Richard, an altar-tomb under an arcade : the three light and elegant arches in front are, properly speaking, neuf-foA, each having nine cusps ; above is tracery and a flowered parapet. There are a great number of other monuments and ancient pieces of sculpture in this cathedral, which we have not space to describe. At the west end of the middle south aisle of the nave is a fine whole-length statue of Mr. Huskisson ; and, in the same aisle, the monument of Collins, whose latter years were clouded by a degree of occasional insanity, with the un- fortunate additional circumstance of his having, after years of comparative penury, obtained a fortune when it was too late to enjoy it. Vide Johnson''8 Biography. He is here represented in a calm interval, reading the New Testament, and expressing a sentiment similar to a declaration of the learned Selden. CRICHBSTKK. 899 The monument, of white marble, was executed by Flaxtnan, and erected by subscription ; at its foot are two small figures of Love and Pity. The epitaph was the joint production of Hayley and of a Mr. Sargent, author of " The Mine." The description is, doubtless, exaggerated, with a similar bad taste to that which induced Mr. Hayley, and others after him, still more silly, to drag forward the sufferings of the benevolent and excellently disposed, but afflicted and hardly sane,Cowper*. " Ye who the merits of the dead revere. Who hold misfortune saoed, genius detr. Regard this tomb ; where Collins' hapless name Solicits kindness with a double daam. Tho' nature gave him, and tho' sdenoe taught. The fire of fancy, and the readi of though Severely doora'd to penury's eitr eme. He pass'd in maddening pain, life's feverish dream ; While rays of genius only so^ed to diow The thick'niug horror, and exalt his woe. Ye walls that echoed to his frantic moao ! Guard the due record of this grateful stone. Strangers to him, enamonr'd of his lays. This fond memorial to his talents ruse; For this, the ashes of a bard reqniie. Who touch'd the tenderest notes of pity's lyre ; MSlio join'd pure faith to strong poetic powen, AVho, in reviving reason's lucid hours, Sought on one book his troubled mind to rest. And rightly deem'd the book of God the best" A similar example of a five-aisled nave occurs in the colle- giate church of Manchester; but as that is in a bold and uniform style of the fifteenth century, it is to the dull nave of this cathedral as " Hyperion to a Satyr." The burrouers were employed in this church in the year 1829, and dis- covered some of the remains of the ancient bishops, which they have engraved and published ; it is, perhaps, want of a real archaeological taste, but we cannot see any pleasure in this, except for those who wish to ** sup on horrors ;" at least it is * There is a parallel, yet with diverse features, is there not? in the conduct of those who delight to ransack all the petty stores of the soured misanthrope. Lord Byron. Why not let that poor man rest in peace ? Are we never to have done with his reminiscences ? Why should the kind-hearted poet Rogers — for that at least he is — be made to know that he had a false friend, who proved • bitterly scurrilous enemy ? But they get money by it ! 400 COAST OF SUSSEX. falling short of the humanity and reverence of the nations of antiquity, who respected the rights of sepulture. Some other remains were at the same time found, as rings, chalices, crosses, to the publication of which there could exist no objection. A beautiful specimen of the ancient painted ceiling of the nave has also been published ; it is added that the original was erased in 1817— surely an act very much to be regretted. We also saw the engraving of a circular paint- ing of the thirteenth century on the wall of the chapel of the bishop''s palace (an edifice partly modernized, but neat and venerable) ; it measures two feet eight inches in diameter, and exhibits the Virgin and Child, delicately executed and richlj coloured, and surrounded by a variegated border. Chichester cathedral was miserably and madly ill-used by the republican soldiers. After the restoration it was assisted by the bounty of many liberal subscribers, amongst whom were a Bishop of Winchester, 200Z. ; two of Chichester, 100/. each ; Bishop of Oxford, lOOl. ; Dr. Brideoke, 100/. ; Earl of Northumberland, 100/.; "William Ashbumham, Esq. cofferer to the king, 100/. ; Hugh May, Esq. 100/. ; T. Tryon, Esq. 100/.; &c. &c.,— total 1680/.* The organ cost 300/. (the former one having been broken in pieces by the soldiers with their pole-axes), and is the one still in use; the wainscot of the choir 107/., and the marble pavement 117/. 5s. 6d. The choral body is very slender, consisting of four ▼!- cars, four singing men, and six choristers only. An addition of two has lately been made to the singing men, and the same is said to be purposed for the choristers, which ought certainly to have been done first; with this limited number, however, the service is performed in a remarkably creditable manner. The present bishop is Dr. Maltby, a gentleman of eminent learning; and the dean. Dr. Chandler, also an esteemed character. The church and churchyard contain a variety of monuments, some of them belonging to distinguished families and charac- ters, and not uninteresting. We accidentally noticed the follow- • DdUiwajr. CHICHESTER. 401- ing in the churchyard, which, though simple enough, lias soaie-' thing pleasing ; it is for a Miss Gatehouse, aged 13. " O thou, bdoved beyond what words cxn tdl. Our dearest girl, a little whiles farewell! ' Besides the Cathedral, Chichester has great part of ita ancient walls remaining, St. Mary's Hospital, a picturesque object, an ancient Town-hall, formerly a chapel, and the Cross. This spacious and beautiful octagonal structure, of the fifteenth century, stands near the centre of the town : on its summit was a heavily rich finial which has been taken down and replaced by a small cup>ola or lantern, neat in itself, but not very- appropriate. The Cross was thoroughly repaired by a Duke of Richmond in 1724. A lady gave a clock to this structure, ** as an hourly memorial of her love to the city." The worthy benefactress did not surely count on the hourlj gratitude of posterity. EMINENT NATITE OP CHICHESTES. «Dr. WILLIAM JUXON, educated at London, at Ikferchant-Taylora School, and at Oxford, in St. John's CoU^e, where he became first fellow, and thai master, or president. His worth in this station recommended him to his majesty King Charles the First to be his chaplain, in which place he had not long continued before his majesty rewarded his gravity, learning, and piety, with divers preferments Eaccessirely, viz. the deanery of Wor- cester, the oflSce of the clerk of his majesty's closet, iRsboprick of Exeter, deanry of the king's chapd, blshoprick of London, a privy coansellor, and lastly, lord treasurer, which great office he held from 1635 to 1 64 1, all which places he managed with the greatest satisfaction. But when the rebellion against his master came on, he found the same hard usage with his brethren the iHshops, for he was put oat of the Lords' House with them, and had the revenues of his bishoprick seized, as theirs was; yet had this honour above them all, to attend his majesty King Charles the First in his most disconsolate condition, 'till be saw him on the scaSbld resign his soul to God. From that time, with a soul full of grief for his masto-'s sofier- ings, he retired to his manor of Compton, in Gloucestershire, where he spent his time in melancholy retirement, and constant devotion, 'till the restoration of King Charles the Second, when be was, after a few months residence on his see of London, removed to the archbishoprick of Canter- bury, to the great joy of all true churchmen. He was consecrated in King Henry the Seventh's chapel, at Westminster ; but e:>joy'd not that biaioa long, for he died in his palace, at Lambeth, June 4, 1663, in the eighty- first year of his age, and being carry 'd to Oxford, in great pomp, July 7, D D 402 COAST OF SCSSKX. was interr'd in the chape) of St. John's College, to whi<^ he was a great benefactor, though a greater to S. Paul's Church, his cathedral^ and his palace at Lambeth, to which he gave 1000/. He was so innocent and good a man, that the enemies of the episcopal ord«- could find nothing ill to say of him, and therefore of all the bishops was the least troubled by the contrary faction, which was a sign that he deserved the character com- monly given him, viz. that he was a person of true primitive sanctity, great wisdom and foresight, signal piety and learning, admirable patienoe. and extensive charity, the most apostohcal virtues. He hath left do writing but a Sennon on Luke xviiL 31; and as for his estate, whidi, after his benefactions, was considerable, he gave it to his brodier's son. Sir William Juxon, Bart., who, or his posterity, now eigoy ic They have their seat at Compton aforeKud." Tbe parish churches, of which there are ax, are uni- versally small and mean ; a free chapel has a turret in imitatioa of the lantern of Demosthenes, and an interior pewed widi American black larch, and containing an organ ; oiected at an, expense of 7000^ There are some schools and charities, and the celebrated Mr. Hardham, the tobacconist, left the into-est of 22,5282/. 15*. 9rf., 3 per cents., to be applied in aid of the poors* rates. The West Sussex, East Hakts, and Chichestek Ik- FIB31AKT, maintained by subscription, had in 1830 an income of 1322i. 3*. lOdL The corporation consists of a High Steward (Duke of Richmond), Maj'or, Recorder, Deputy Recorder, Bailiffs, &c. Here are a Literary Society, Assembly-rooms, Theatre, with splendid scenery, presented by the late Duke of Richmond, Banks, Custom-house, &c. The market days are on Wednesday and Saturday, with a cattle market every alteinate Wednesday, and there are five annual fairs. WEST DEAN, near Chichester, is the handsome Gothic seat of Lord Selsey : this nobleman also, as well as the Duke of Richmond, is very popular in the vicinity. We have not the slightest knowledge of his lordship, but having accidentally heard a high cha- racter of his benevolence, are desirous to record it. We heard HALNAK£& A^O BOXGtOVK. 409 that, among other acts of chanty, he orders, every Chnstmas, three fat oxen to be killed, which, with a f^reat quantity of winter clothing, are distributed to the poor of his neigh- bourhood. ** Swear, that ThCTon sore has sworn. No one near him should be poor ; Swear, that none e'er had sack a prosperooa aft. Fortune's free gifts as fredy to impart. With an anboanded hand and an ungrud^ng haxL" Findat. %* HALNAKER AND BOXGROVE. Indisposition, as we before intimated, prevented our visiting these relics of antiquity, also, as we very much regretted, from taking a circuit of the Park at Goodwood ; we must therefore derive a concise account from the united and care- fully compared surveys of others. Bosgrave and Halnache are mentioned separatiely ia Dooms- day Book, but each as a constituent of the honour of Arundel. In the reign of Henry I. it was given, with the valuation of twelve knights' fees, to Robert de Haia, who married a lady of the royal blood, and passed in dowry with his daughter to Roger de St. John, of Basing, one of the founders of the noble family of that name, who were intimately cobnected with the succession to the crown during two reigns (with the curious coincidence of having included a Countess of Rich- mond), and afterwards formed the source of sevetal peeragra. May it once more be pardoned to the humble author of this work, not from any unprofitable pride, but from reverential recollection of the departed, to state that he has the honour of ranking the highest branch of this family, St. John of Bletso^ as intimately connected with his own immediate ancestors*. In this family Halnaker and Boxgrove continued for about * Viflie Chatmcey't Hertfordshire, quoted at page 245 of this volume, or any pedigree of the St. John's. Of the family mentioned in that page was also At last grand prior of St. John of Jerusalem in England, an earl before the reformation ; who built St. John's Gate, Clerkenwell, which is still in existence. They were also barons of Culmore, Ireland, temp. James I. D d2 I ^Ol- COAST OF SUSSEX, S50years, it then passed by marriage into the family of Biirgcrsli, and afterwards to that of Poynings, celebrated in Sussex ; subse- quently to Lord de la Warr, and afterwards to Sir John Morley, who obtained it in the reign of Elizabeth, in fee farm from the crown, which became possessed of it by an exchange with Lord de la Warr. We find in Dallaway that it passed, by marriage of Mary Morley, to James, Earl of Derby, and after- wards to Sir Thomas Dyke Ackland, of whom it was pur- chased, in 1765, by the Duke of Richmond, for the gum of 48,000/. By the following abridged extract which we had previously made from the Burrell MSS., we see that in the interim it had been in fee farm to an alien party, a variation in the chain of connexion which we have no means of ex- plaining. Boxgrove and Halnaker, with Eartham, West Dean, and some other places, were let in the 8th year of William and Mary to the Duke of Leeds (in consideration of his good services) for thirty-one years, firom the death of Catherine, queen dowager, at the yearly rent of 3/. 18#. 4^ — BurreUMSS. The Priory was founded by Robert de Haia, in the reign of Henry L, for three monks only of the Benedictine Order, as a cell to the abbey of U Essay, or de Exaguio, in Normandy; but, by the donations of Roger St. John ar>d his sons, William and Robert, was increased to fifteen. When other alien priories were confiscated, this obtained the indulgence of being made Jtidi^ena or denizen; and at the dissolution, when it was granted to Sir Thomas West, Lord de la Warr, its annual revenues amounted to 185/. 19*. Sd. Halnaker was formerly a handsome quadrangular specimen of the Tudor era, with a turreted gateway : the great hall still remains, and has some curiously carved wainscot; over the pantries arc two half figures, bearing cups, one of whom indicates, in a scroll, a courtly French invitation to the visitors, "UrsbfcnS faeniic" — "they are very welcome."" Another salutes them with a very homely and ludicrously hearty English one — " Com {n anlf Ijrunfe !" Boxgrove Priory Church is supposed to have been built by HALNAKER AND BOXCROVE. 405 William and Robert St. John, in the reign of Henry the Second. It is on the same plan as New Shoreham, but on a smaller scale; a nave, three chancels, two transepts, and a central tower, and, like it, has remaining only the chancels, transepts, and tower, with a fragment of the nave ; the ruins of the nave are, however, more distinct than at the former, whilst the south transept is nearly destroyed. The tower resembles that at Broadwater, and also at the cathedral at Winchester; the north-west area is the most interesting ; the flying buttresses are plain and ineffective. The interior has some glazed tile pave< ments, a painted ceiling, stalls, and remains of chantries ; but its principal ornaments are numerous and grand sepulchral erections. Although these do not include the sepulchre of Queen Adeliza, as tradition asserts, since she was certainly interred in the conventual church of Reading, founded by her first husband, Henry I., they comprise the tombs of her daughter Olivia, and her grand-daughter, of the same name, daughter of William Albini, Earl of Arundel, and amongst the other four, which are all under arcades, is that of Philippa, wife of Thomas Lord Poynings. The armorial blazonings have been principally destroyed, but one monument retains the escutcheon of St. John. But the grand decoration of this church is the sepulchral and chantry chapel of Thomas Lord de la Warr and Cantelupe, 1532, on the right of the altar, which is most pro- fusely and elaborately carved, and ornamented with painting and gilding; a great proportion of its carvings is in a rich and solid style, indicating the junction of Italian ornaments, which has always an approach to the idea of Orientality. The di- mensions are, length 14 feet, breadth 8 feet 9, and height 12 feet. Here is also the monument of Mary Morley, Coun- tess of Derby, who died in 1752, having founded, in 1741, an hospital for 12 poor women of Boxgrove, East Lavant, and Tangmere, and a school for the education and clothing of 12 poor boys and 12 poor girls of the same parishes, a number which is likely to be augmented with the increase of the reve- nues. She is represented sittii>g under an oak, {)ointing to her i06 COAST OF SC3SEX. hospital, and giving alms to travellers. The population iyf Boxgrove, in 18.'31, was 773. The estate of Goodwood lies in the parishes of Boxgrove and West Hampnett ; the latter has an ancient church with Norman remains, containing a curious monument. In a field near the spot was lately found an old massy and beautifu) gold ring, bearing a signet, I.H.S., and round its edge an in- gcriptioo — " akm orat p' alit's p* sc lahorat" — " He who prays for others labours for himself:"" — a sentiment as credible as gen^vus oB every and any principle of rdigion. GOODWOOD. Having before alluded to our disappointment in not ob- taining any answers or acknowledgments from various noble families in or connected with Sussex, and our obligations for a different and courteous line of behaviour from the house of Jlichmond, we think it but right, " That thou mayst see the diSerence of ' his' spirit," simply to inform the reader of the circumstance, as, though it was not much more than we thought probable, it was ye^ pxtremely gratifying to find our expectations amply fulfilled. His Grace, in answer to our request of admission. Sic &c, informed us that the house and grounds at Goodwood migh^ be seen at any time without an order from him — which al} travellers will find to be the generous and pleasing fact — and that he only regretted that his official duties in London pre» vented his showing it to us himself. On visiting the house, we found in it a lady of high rank and an invalid, who voluntarily quitted, for some time, the apartments she was occupying, to ^ow us to take a leisurely survey of them. Had, therefore, this very pleasing mansion possessed far Jess considerable attractions than it did, could any reader have blanked us for feeling inclined to dilate on a spot where we experience genuine courtesy and kindness ? COODWOOD. 407 A circumstance we have twice alluded to impaired, in some degree, our means of observation ; sull we trust that, with tolerably copious notes, a not very bad memcMy, and the con- sultation of two or three previous works containing some par* dculars, we shall give a tolerable account, though not equal to what we might have wished, and that we shall avcnd direct errors. The handsome and imposing front* of Goodwood, which has a singular outline tending to the semi-octagonal or otiel form, has a centre 166 feet long, and two wings, ea<^ 106, forming a total of 378. The wings recede in an angle of 45 degrees, and at all the comers are very bold and handsome circular towers, which have the cornice extended round them, and an upper story with parapet and flat domed roof. In the centre is a light and very graceful portico and loggia, of six Doric columns below, and six Ionic above, with good entablatures and a surmounting balustrade; the wings are differently ornamented. Prior to the year 1800 the south wing was the principal front, as erected by Sir William Chambers. The extensive additions were under the direction of Wyatt: the material of the walls is squared flint, cut very small and of a light colour, which, contrasted with the Portland stone composing all the architectural ornaments, has a cheerful and pleasing effect, superior, perhaps, to the uniformity of a stone ia^ade. INTERIOR. ENTRANCE HALL, 3Sfeet by 3S feet 3. At its upper end is a fine colonnade of the Corinthian ainting of the death of Cleopatra ; and over the doors are Bacchus and Ariadne, also by Riley, and the latter a pro- * This lady was very popular in England from her exceUent disposition and pleasing manners ; tbe English ladies paid her the compliment of terming a great coal-scuttle article the Oldenburgh bonnet. 410 COAST OF SUSSEX. file of the third Duchess of RichmomL The walls and dra- peries are of a pale pink, with gold French ornaments, and the cornice exquisitely pretty, of oak leaves, white and gold, tied with blue ribbons ; between the windows are grand pier- glasses : this room contains a variety of minute ornaments, some fine portraits and miniatures, and smne cages with beautifai tropical birds. The number of books in it and the adjoinii^ library is upwards of 10,000. WAIXSCOT LIB&ART, 23/«rrf 8 by \9fert 10, has a light and elegant hanging gallery copied from that at Christchurch, Oxford. It contains some valuable old books, MSS., and drawings ; also ten or twelve portraits and views ; two of the former, by Romnej/ and Angelica Kauffmariy are veiy highly esteemed. BREAKFAST ROOM, 9XiJeet in diamrUr, occupies the lower part of one of the circular towers, has light blue walls and drapery, and is a neat and cheerful apart- ment. THE duke's study, with walls, &c. of a scarlet colour, has a fine painting of the late Duke when a youth, by Romney; a variety of scarce en- gravings by Vertue ; also all the accompaniments of a sports- man, and a pair of very rich and valuable Indian hookahs, a present to the late Duke. DRAWING-BOOM, 35 feet by 23 feet 8, is hung with beautiful Gobelin tapestry, presented to Charles Duke of Richmond, by Louis XV., whilst he was ambassador to his court. Besides exquisite representations of fruit and flower GOODWOOD. 411 t)askets, &c. it iDcludes four large designs from Don Quixote, surrounded by deep flowered borders. 1. The worthy knight at supper at the inn where he was dubbed with the chivalric order, and accompanied by the two ladies whose vocatioa and rank his simplicity so far mistook. 2. His nocturnal guard of the (castle) inn, when he was suspended from the window by the mischievous Maritomes. 3. Consulting the brazen head in Don Antonio de ]VIoreno"'s house at Valencia. 4. The capture of Mambrino's helmet. — This room is furnished with very noble ornaments, three spacious pier-glasses, almost equalling the size of those in the Pavilion ; a carpet of EngU^ manufacture, to match the tapestry, which cost 550 guineas; and an Indian screen 500. The ceiling is painted and gilt, with figures in the centre in the French style ; the curtains are of yellow silk tabinet; and the antique carved and gilt sofas, covered with splendid cut-velvet on satin, in superior preservation to that at Arundel. The chimney-piece was executed by Bacon, for whieh he received 750 guineas, which was a liberal advance on the part of the late duke above the price required by the artist. It has figures of Venus and Adunis undrawing and sustaining a drapery ; and we do not really see how they could be sur- passed by any of the works of Chantrej, Thorwaldsen, or Canova. STATE BED-ROOM, 24 feet & by 23 feet 9, is also hung with Gobelin tapestry, representing in a bril- liant and airy style the Four Seasons: the figure of Spring is very pretty, but that of Autumn the most beautifuL The furniture is of crimson damask and satin ; the bed of the same, with a tester canopy of crimson velvet fringed with gold, bearing a splendid emblazoning of the royal arms and ax others on the sides ; the pillars are of highly carved mahogany, and the whole is raised on a dais covered with crimson silk and velvet. Over the chimney-piece is a portrait of Henrietta of 412 COAST OF SUSSEX. Orleans, a daughter of Charles I., a very pretty figure and ioDoceot couDtenance — " A moath with a anile^ DercHd of all gnile.'* There are also views of Windsor and Dover Castles. The dressing-room adjoining is suitably correspionding in its style. Its ceiling is painted from the antique, and it has a rich cabinet of ebony, inlaid with ivory, silver, and preaous stones. THE SALOON, Jiout 70 feet by 19 feet 3 tmekes, was the hall of the original mansion ; it is neat and pretty, but without much ornament ; at each end is a range of six fluted Ionic columns. The principal paintings are Views in London, by CanaUtti, taken about the conclusion of the seventeenth century, displaying the gothic part of old White- hall, St. Paul's, and the river, with state barges; also old Richmond House. There are also some family portraits, con- nected with the trophies of Waterloo; scnne antique busts, and paintings of horses, &c. There is a neat organ in this apartment, and Divine service is performed in it by the Duke's chaplain every Sunday morning. THE GRAND STAIRCASE, whose area forms a handsome apartment, profusely decorated with valuable paintings, is of polished and carved wainscot, the walls of a gray colour, with crimson draperies. Oa a large maible stove are some fine antique heads and busts. The portraits are about twenty, some of grand aze, and all in rich frames ; the noblest is that of Charles I. and his family, bj VandykCy 9 feet 9 by 8 feet 2, exclusive of the frame, sold at the parliamentary sale of that king's effects for 150/., and purchased by the third Duke of Richmond, from the Orleans collection, in 1806, for 1 100 guineas. There are several other portraits of Charles I. and II., and their families ; four of the " Beauties," including the Duchess of Portsmouth, Louiba de GOODWOOD. 413 Querouallc, and Nell Gwynn ; Frances, the last, exquisitely beautiful and virtuous. Duchess of Richmond of the old Stuart race (La Belle Stuart), as Minerva or Britannia, with armour and plume * ; and a very fine portrait, lately intro- duced, of the Marquis de Castelnau ; two half-lengths of the Count and Countess de Queroualle, parents of the Duchess of Portsmouth. Most of these are by Sir Peter Lely and Sir Godfrey Kneller. At the bottom of the staircase is a portrait of Cardinal Fleury . The benignant and noble countenance of this French minister, a very different character from Richelieu or Maza- rin, bears some resemblance to that of Fenelon, and is appro- priately set off by his scarlet cardinal's robe. This was the statesman who had so high an esteem for the simply and apo- stolically good Dr. Wilson, Bishop of Sodor and Man, that he solicited and obtained an order from his own government that no French cruizer, during the war, should ravage the Isle ctf Man, or molest the property of its inhabitants. It is really not easy to saj' on which of the two this confers more honour"f-. THE STONE STAIRCASE has the magnificent decoration of between fifty and sixty pictures, which our limits absolutely preclude us from speci- fying particularly. Amongst them are, the Judgment of Paris, by Guido — not a very happy design ; a fine Charity, by De la Hive; a great number of portraits, some of the finest of which are the Duke of Monmouth, by Sir Peter Ldy ; Cromwell, said to be by Gen. Lambert, on the evemng before the battle of Naseby ; Madame de Montespan, as a Magdalen, * Vide not the Memoirs of tbe gross sensualist, Hamilton, for he pollutes every thing which he touches ; but any life of this lady written with better feeling : Horace Walpole's, or Mrs. Jamieson's. f It is truly said, that the character of a person is best ascertained by minor and every-day facts ; and we like to meet with and relate such as the following : — Dr. Wilson had ordered a coat of an insular tailor, and told him he wished to have it fastened with a hook and eye (as it is termed) in front, in place of buttons. The tailor promptly replied, that if his Lordship set such a fashion, it would be followed in the island, and that both the button-makers and the tailors would be losers. << Would they ?" said the Bishop ; " then, corn- it with buttons from top to bottom." 414 COAST or SDSSEX. in blue drapery. Amongst the paintings are some very good small Scripture pieces, and a copy of Paul Veronese's large painting of the Marriage in Cana; a Virgin and Child, by Parmigiano: a fine Head of St. Sebastian, by Gutdo t a large Vision of the Empress Helena ; an Exice Homo, by Le Sieur ; Elijah and the Widow of Zareptha, by Polemburg ; Alexander cutting the Gordian Knot, and drinking the Medicine of Philips by Solomene ; the Lady''s last Stake, by Hogarth, in accordance with the style of Congreve, or Gibber's plays ; Lions, by Stubbs; Sea Pieces, some by Scott, of Brighton; two Prize Land- scapes, by the Smithsy of Chichester, very excellent, each & feet 3 by 4 feet 6. Here are also a fine statue of a Bacchanal ; a bronze Termi-f BUS, in a contemplative attitude; a Burmese Deity, lately brought over, its pedestal curiously inlaid with pieces - loured glass, two immense horns of elks. Sic*- Sm. OLI> SINING-KOOH, i&feet squarey (N. B. The height of ahnost all the rooms is 18 feet) contains two very large paintings of the Festival of Bacchus and Ceres at Athens ; a large portrait, unknown, in Turkish costume ; Irish antiquities, battle-axes, daggers, swords, sup- posed to be of Carthaginian or Tyrian manufacture, from their similarity to the relics of HanniboTs army, found at Cann^^y bridle bits, and a ring of Divination (Druidical?), called, irt Irish,- Ainie Druieach t and lasdy, an Egyptian mummy. OLD BILLIARD ROOll contains some good family portraits; and an adjoining room has a fine one by Kneller, representing the first Duke of Rich- mond being invested with the Order of the Garter at the early age of nine years. The Waiting Room also contains some good portraits. There are two other large and handsome billiard rooms, which include collections of paintings of great extent, and the utmost beauty and value. GOODWOOD. 415 BILLIARD ROOM has a noble collection of nearly fifty pictures ; two fine portraits of Killigrew and Carew, by Vandyke ; a very beautiful Marquess- of Montrose, by the same ; a very fine Flemish Noble, by Rem- brandt ; a Duke of Bavaria, by ditto ; Francis Stuart, Duke of Richmond, a friend of Charles I., and who assisted at his- interment, by Lely ; some unknown and fancy portraits, one hy Gu£rcino ; John Sobieski, the King of Poland, whose whole life is a romance teeming with interest, the deliverer of Viennay with 74,000 men (not 7000, as absurdly stated in Mr. Jacques^* book, and copied in another, entirely stolen from his and Mr. Dallaway, by a Mr. Dally), against 200,000 Turks and Tartars. We are possessed of an old, but excellently written, biography of this hero, which is well worthy of re-publicatioo. The paintings include specimens of some of the best mas- ters. A large Sea piece, with port ; a Landscape; and an His- torical Figure, by Salvator Rosa ; Saint Catherine, very beauti- ful, by Guido ; St. Michael, by the same ; the entombing vS Christ, by one of the Caracci; splendid perspective of the interior of a cathedral, by Peter Neefs ; Nativity, by Bam-' bocci ; Saint Agnes, by the younger Tenters ; a Manage, by Wouvermans; a beautiful portrait, by Rubens, of Helena Forman, his second wife; " The Envied Bit,'' by Piazetta, a child refu^ng to part with an apple for which the longer offers a gold ring ; a Frost piece, by Ostude ; very rich Cattle piece, by Berghem ; two Views in Venice, by Canaletti, &c. &c. &c. THE NEW BILLIARD ROOM has its walls, as well as the others, of crimson, forming a fine relief to the numerous paintings, with which they are richly ornamented. Their number here is about thirty, not quite equal, in this respect, to those of the last-mentioned, but in- cluding several of high stamp and merit, sufficient to delight and detain the lingering attention of the visitor. The princw pal is, the celebrated Damley Picture, of eminent antiquarian and historical interest, 7 feet 4 by 4? feet 6, inscribed, " tea- 416 COAST OF SUSSEX. GICA £T LAMENTABILIS INT£RN£CIO SERENISSIMI HENSICI SCOTORUM REGIS." Two corresponding paintings on this subject were executed by the same artist for Matthew Earl of Lennox, the Earl's father. One passed, by marriage, into the Pomfret family, and, having been presented to Caroline, Queen of George II., is now in Kensington Palace. The other, which had been given by the Earl to his brother, the Lord of Aubigny, and, on the extinction of the ancient dukedom, had passed with that castle into the hands of the present family, was brought from thence by the third Duke of Richmond and deposited at Goodwood. The artist's name is written in the Kensington picture alone ; his christian name is Levinus, but the other has been variously read Vogtlarius and Venetianus. To enter into that minute, historical, and descriptive ac- count which this painting intrinsically merits, is be^^ond oiur opportunity in this volume. A copious and very ingenious MS. account, drawn up by Vertue, is in the library at Good- wood. In addition to the principal design, there are minor accompaniments, in tlie shape of medallions or Rilievif de- picting various circumstances of the tragical deed : and in one part of the painting is a compartment, 23 inches by 17, exhi- biting a very elaborate and faithful representation of the battle of Carberry Hill, where Mary separated herself from Both- well, and surrendered to the confederated Lords *. The body of the painting represents a chapel, the tomb and efHgies, with all the religious and heraldic accompaniments of the time, erected to the memory of the murdered Damley, be- fore which are kneeling the Earl and Countess of Lennox, the young king, afterwards James I., and his brother. Various Latin inscriptions are inserted, invoking Justice and Vengeance; and the picture itself was painted a very short time after the murder, as a memorial to the youthful prince, and an incite- ment to retribution, as if they had said " F.XORIARE ALIQVIS, NOeTRIS IOC OSSIBUS, CLTOrT * The whole of the M S. descriptions are printed in a clever little account by a Mr. Jacques, 1822, now out of print. GOODWOOD. 417 The effect, though interesting, is melancholy, and -it is obvious that it was executed under circumstances of recent passionate grief. Of the circumstances of the original trans- action, it is unnecessary for us to speak, and it is a subject oo which we should feel paio, as we are strongly inclined to com- passionate the hapless !Mary, the character of whose husband, Damley, is here, doubtless with a pardonable parental feeling ^r^ously flattered. We fear, however, she was not inno*. cently ignorant of the act of Bothwell ; and what can palliate premeditated murder, whether by treachery, or vested under the term of a duel? — bloodshed will have its vengeance, and the earth cannot hide its cry. Still, all that can be said should be said in behalf of this most unhappy queen — ill-used almost from her cradle to her grave — early thrown, with the dangerous attractions of exquisite beauty, and with the giddi- ness and inexperience of a child, amidst factions of savage and ambitious men, without a guide or friend; and whose-crimes, if they were so, were repaid by years of persecution and be- reavement, and closed, by an unjust death, from the cold and artful hypocrisy of a sister, which was nobly endured, and her chequered career terminated with \'irtuous and Christian hope. She has suffered enough : — Rrquiescat inpcux! Amongst other pictures in this room are a beautiful recum-- bent Venus, playing with a squirrel, 7 feet by 5 feet, an un- doubted Titian ; Mary de Medici, widow of H«iry IV., and. mother of the beautiful but wayward queen of Charles I. of England, a fine portrait ; full-length portraits of George III, and his queen, by Allan Ramsey ; a fine head of Robert Bruoe,- the friend of Wallace and hero of Bannockburn ; Madam de Montespan ; several other fine portraits, including one of Lord Anson, whose ship, the Centurion, forms also one of three sea pieces by jillin : the figure-head, formerly in Goodwood Park, has been lately presented to his Majesty. Some fine small paintings, in the Fleeaish style; four views on the Rhine; portrait oi Sophonisba Ang^tthciola., a female Italian artist, one of two which this young lady painted herself, and presented to Rubens and Vandyke, o feet 7 by 3 feet 6, playing on a spin.. K K 418 COAST OF SUSSEX. net, and attended by her nurse. This is, par eminence^ the loveliest portrait in the house; the beautiful and clear-coloured face, with Madonna hair, relieved by a close-fitting dark dress, and very fine chiaro ^scuro, form one of the happiest effects that can easily be witnessed. Either in this or an adjoining room, we forget which, is a small standard, captured at the field of Waterloo, inscribed on aae side, '' champ de mai ;" and, on the oth«r side, ** DS- PARTEICENT DES BOUCHES DE RHONE.^ THE BANQUETING ROOM, OR PICTURE GALLERT, beyond the north angle of the front, is not yet completed, but its size, 86 feet by 24, will be commanding, and it will pro- bably display to advantage some of the noble portraits and pictures with which some other parts of the house are now profusely crowded. Ascending one of the staircases, we enter the CHINA ROOM, S3 feet by 13, the furniture of which is of Indian bamboo, and the walk covered with Indian chintz. The collection of china is very valuable, especially those pieces of a green colour. This Toata communicates with the loggia of the portico. In Sifert bs 18, contains the tale of Antiochus and Stratonice, by Riley ; and a copy of Corregio's Magdalen, at Dresden. In the adjoining dressing-room are portraits in crayons of several ladies and gentlemen, who formerly attended the " Goodwood Hunt," The duke and duchess's bed-room and dressing-rooms are very neat and elegant. They contain a beautiful portrait of the present Duchess of Argyle, in crimson, by Mellichip; GOODWOOD. 419 three of the Duke of Richmond's children, very pleasing, by the same ; a very pretty painting of the late Lady Holland, mother of C. J. Fox, by Wotton ; some exquisite small miniatures, &c. &c. The duke's dressing-room commands a fine view over the park and the surrounding country, ex- tending to the sea ; and it contains several Indian curiosities^ as enamelled handled swords, &c. In one of these apartments are fine portraits of the late Duke and Duchess c^ Gordon, father and mother of the Duchess-dowager of Richmond ; all this suite of apartments is very elegant ; and the orcular form of those forming the area of the towers is no small addition to their general :q>pearance. Descending to the hall, we conclude our survey with the HEW DRAWING-SOOV, SSJiet long by 24 vnde, with an inner Drawing-room oeempyaig fke lower part of the tower, 9Qfeet in, diameter. The hangings of the walls, draperies, and furniture, are of yellow striped sadn of English manufacture ; the oomioes deep and elaborate, yet light, and most richly gilded; and the ceilings tastefully clouded; the compartments also have ele- gant gilt borders. In these rooms arc kept some memorials of Charles L, whom a Duke of Richmond attended in his last moments. The drawing-room has also, like most other rooms in the house, a variety of minor beautiful articles of furniture^ which we have not attempted to particularize. Here, how- ever, are some articles of great rarity, including a fine inlaid tortoise-shell cabinet, and some unique small paintings on silver. We must not omit the two exquisitely beautiful services of Score china, to which our attention was particularly directed by the attentive and obliging Mrs. Hardwick, the concierge, whom we recollect with pleasure. They are amongst the most splendid of that costly manufactury ; and the duke was ofiered, when ambassador at Paris, his choice of this present or one of silver plate, when he preferred the former. In fact, they are literally " worth their weight in silver."" One set is blue, and '420 COAST OF SOSSEX. the other green and gold, and they exhibit figures of animals and birds in the most excellent style of painting. We cannot leave the house without again expressing our regret at not having in any degree done justice to the paintings. We have not even named many chefs (Tceuvre ; their number and variety perfectly astonished us, as they will do all who visit Croodwood. %• GROUNDS, PARK, &c &c. «Hic gelidi fontes Lie mollia prata Lyoori' Hie nemos. - — — Sperchius ubi et virginibus bacchata Lacoenis Tiiygeta. — O qui me gelidis in vallibuB Hsemi Sistat, et ingenti ramorum prot^at umbra !' The relic of Cogidubnus we have before noticed, which is placed in a neat temple, dedicated to Minerva. Near the temple is a fine orangery, containing various aromatic plants, some of them brought from the island of Malta ; and, in its immediate vicinity, a large Virginian tulip-tree, planted in 1739, There are several pretty memorials of favourite dogs, mon- keys, and a tame lioness ; all these, partly connected with the artificial ruin of an abbey, are within the circuit of the High Wood, a picturesquely disposed enclosure of forty acres. One of the epitaphs, on a spaniel of the Countess of Albemarle, in 1741, is sufficiently happy to merit recording. " I once was ' Miss,' the mildest, best of misses. Nursed and brought up by Keppel's care and kisses — But now no more than Argus or Ulysses " The stables near the mansion, erected by Sir William Chambers, form a very neat quadrangular structure, con- taining fifty-four stalls. On an eminence farther removed, and forming a handsome object, are the dog-kennels, erected by Wyatt, at an expense of 60001. They are 148 feet long, by 30 broad, and are considered to be unsurpassed in all their arrangements. A hollow, formerly a chalk-pit, has been GOODWOOD. 4^1 tastefully fitted up as a phcasantry, containing a number of gold and silver pheasants, which are remarkably tame. The lion figure-head of Lord Anson's ship, the Centurion, now presented to His Majesty, who had taken a great fancy to it, formerly stood at one of the entrances to the park, and bears this inscription :— " Stop traveller awhile, and view One who has tiavell'd more than joa. Quite round the ^be, through each degree^ - Anson and I have ploogh'd the sea ; Torrid and frigid zones have past. And safe arrived ashore at lasi^ In ease, with dignity appear^ He in the House of Lords, / here." The dairy, which we much regret not having seen, is a Gothic octagon, with carved and emblazoned buttresses, a decorated wooden ceiling, and windows of ancient stained glass. The park is nearly six miles in circuit, and contains 1214^ acres; it includes several highly interesting spots. Cairney Seat is an originally splendid summer erection, on a commanding eminence, and has near it a cunous grotto of shell-work, executed by the second Duchess of Richmond and her daughters, jn the park are upwards of- a thousand cedars of Lebanon, planted by the Duke of Richmond, in 1761, being then of four years' growth : here are also two Spanish cork- trees in a very flourishing condition, a decided proof of the mildness of the climate in this part of the southern coast. St. Roach''s Hill, a little to the west of the park, has the remains of an encampment, supposed to have been formed by the Danes, in the year 992, The altitude of the hill above the level of the sea, as taken by trigonometrical survey for the late duke, when Master-General of the Ordnance, is 702 feet. The celebrated Goodwood races are also held on a level in this direction ; these are well-known by all to whom they are particularly objects of attraction, or they may be referred to the " Sporting Magazine," which, though totally out of our line, is, we believe, a very creditable work, and generally con- sidered high authority in such matters. 422 COAST OF SCSSKX. RICHMOND FAMILY. * repetens exempU prMmm." The ancieiit dukedom of Richmond was in the family of Stuart, Eaii of Damley, and became extinct with the death of Charles, axth Duke of Richmond and Lennox, and Lord of Aubigny, in France, in 1672. The present family are, there- fore, in no respect connected with the former, except by adoption and royal grant of the title. Consequently •* La Bdle Stuart *" was not an ancestress, a mistake which we were about to make, and have known occur to sereral others. As there are^ however, two fine portraits of her at Goodwood, we cannot pass over ber name without a brief aUuaon. She was one of those prodigies of beauty whose influence on the worid has been nearly magical, a second Cleopatra, Diana, or Ninon, but with a more unspotted character. In her early youth, before her charms had reached their maturity, they excited such expectation in France, that Louis XIV. strongly desired to retain her as an ornament to his court. It cannot be dis- sembled that her virtue was aspersed in the dissolute court of Charles II., but Mrs. Jamieson,who is by no means prejudiced in her favour, concludes that the testimonies on the side of h& innocence predominated. Her intellect was, unlike that of Cleopatra, inferior to her beauty ; but the trait of character attributed to her by Horace Walpole argues a good heart, though there are not wanting those who will ridicule it, viz. her leaving her favourite dogs, &c &c., with pensions for thar lives, to several of her female friends, with the additional motive of affording, under this delicate veil, a degree of pecuniary assistance. Her favour also with the queen, and her declaration that she had rather marry a country gentleman of small fortune, than live in a court where her virtue was suspected, are honourable marks of disposition. She married the last Stuart Duke of Richmond, hoping to reclaim him, who had been not uncontaminated by the court. She did reclaim him, and ended her life happily, and we are glad to record it ; for the calumny of the brutal is always neither any KICHMOXD FAMILY. 4£S proof of guilt, nor should it be succumbed to: let but those aggrieved patiently and firmly take for their motto— "Port tenebras spero lucem," and they may, by the help of God, overcome the malice and cruelty of their enemies. Charles, the first Duke of Richmond of that higfalj honourable family of which we are now the pleased, though very concise and bumble chrooiclers, was the son of Charles II. by Louise Renee de Penencourt de Queroualle, who was o{ a noble baronial family, in the province of Britanny, and maid of honour to IVfadame the king's sister. The reader will please to observe we are nut extenuating any illegality, but simply stating a fact. She was afterwards created Duchess of Portsmouth, as is known to aU who have read tlie History of England. Charles, her son, to whom the king gave the name of Lennox, was bcH-n in 167-~, and was created Duke of Rich- mond in 1675, having been previously Earl of March, a title derived from the ]VIarches in Wales, and Baron SettringtoD, Co. York. He also at the same time received a grant of the estate of Lennox, in Scotland, and was created Duke of Len- nox, Earl of Damley, and Baron jMethuen of Torbolton. By the influence of Charles II. with the French king, the territory of Aubtgny, which had lapsed to the crown, was granted to the Duchess of Portsmouth, and erected into a duchy, with remainder to her son ; in which grant respect is s^d to have been had to the faithful services always rendered by the ancestors of Louise de Queroualle to the kings of France. Aubigny, in Latin AUnniacum, is situated in the province of Bern, on the river Nere ; the territory consisted of two considerable castles, two parishes and fiefs, with aU seignnrial rights, and the privilege of resorting to the court and parliament of Paris. The territory was confiscated in the first French revolution, and, we suppose, has not been restored, but the title is still borne. The duke was made Knight of the Garter in 1681, and, from the accidental pleasing appearance of his wearing the blue ribbon, &c. over the left shoulder, instead of round the 4S4 COAST OF SUSSEX. neck, the style was altered from that period. He was Master of the Horse on the removal of the Duke of Monmouth ; and, after the revolution, Aide-de-Camp to King William, in Flan- ders, and one of the Lords of the Bedchamber to George I. He purchased Goodwood of the family of Compton, of £ast Havant, about the year 1719, and, dying there in 1723, was interred in Henry Vllth's Chapel, but his body was afterwards removed to Chichester cathedral. The duke married, in 1693, Anne, daughter of Francis Lord Brudenell, son of the Elarl of Cardigan, and widow of Henry, son of John Lord Bella- syse, and left one son and two daughters. The portrait of the duke at Goodwood has a remarkably sweet and noble ex- pression. It is, much as we regret it, beyond our power here to do more than very briefly enumerate the line of heirs to the suc- cession. Charles, the second duke, was one of the first knights of the revived Order of the Bath, Knight of the Bedchamber, and Aide-de-Camp to both George I. and XL, and High Con- stable of England at the coronation of the latter; also, at different periods, appointed a Privy-Counsellor, one of the Lords Justices, and placed in a variety of military posts ; at- tended George II. at the battle of Dettingen, and the Duke of Cumberland on the expedition against the Pretender. He was also High Steward of Chichester, and, at the Duke of New- castle'*s installation at Cambridge, was created Doctor of Laws (according to Dallaway, which we presume is a just correction of ColUns' account, who states it as Doctor of Physic). He was the first Duke of Aubigny, the Duchess of Portsmouth dying in 1734, and visited that territory with his duchess in 1749. She was Sarah, daughter of William Earl Cadogan, and one of the ladies of the bedchamber to Queen Caroline, whom he married in 1719, and had twelve children, six of whom alone survived him. The duke died in 1750, generally lamented and esteemed. It appears to us, that the circum- stance of a grandson of Charles II. being so highly esteemed and trusted by kings of the line of Hanover, is one of the strongest proofs of merit that could be advanced. BICHMOKD FAMILY. 4^ His eighth cliild, Lord George Henry Lennox, born 17S7, was also a distinguished military character, and Secretary of Embassy and Charge des Affaires at Paris to his brother, the succeeding duke. He married Lady Louisa, daughter of Wil- liam Ker, Earl of Ancram (both names are immortalized by Scott), and son of the Marquess of Lothian ; and his son wais the late Duke of Richmond. The ardent and romantic attachment of the excellent and virtuous George HI. (we say this advisedly, in defiance of fais abusers in the present day) for Lady Sarah Lennox^ whom, but for the severe, though it may be politic, restrictions laid on English princes, he would have addressed and raised to his throne, is so well known, that it is needless for us to dwell on it, though the subject is highly interesting. < Charles, the third Duke of Richmond, bom in 1735, was also of high military rank, having been elevated to that of Field Marshal, and Master-General of the Ordnance from 1782 to 1795, and during that time, receiving the unequi- vocal honour of being removed and restored Mdthin six months. In this post he rendered an essential service to the southern coast of England, which we alluded to at page 214, but, by mistake, attributed it to his successor. He was also K. G,, Lord Lieutenant of Sussex, carried the sceptre with the dove at the coronation of George III., and was, in 1765, Ambassador to Paris. But his still higher merits wa*e, fais patronage of the arts, and of various charitable institutions. He opened, at his house at Whitehall, a kind of minor Royal Academy, placing in it fine original casts of all the best mo- dels in Italy, most of which he had collected himself at the various spots, allowing all artists above the age of twelve years free access to them, and giving annually two medals to those who executed the most perfect models. This, with other acts of munificence, is said to have been, at that time, of the very highest service to the arts. He married, 1757, Mary, daugh- ter of Charles Bruce, Earl of Aylesbury, by his lady, daughter of the Duke of Argjle, but, dying in 1806, left no children, and was succeeded by his nepliew, Charles, fourth Duke of Richmond, born 17&1, a Licutcnant-General and Colonel of i26 COAST or SDtS£X. the 35th regiment of foot, who married Charlotte, daughter of Alexander Duke of Gordon. The family of Gordon was of high rank in France in the reigns of Pepin and Charlemagne, and their successors, having filled some of the greatest offices, amongst which was that of High Constable. They removed to Scotland in the eleventh century, and assisted in the conquest of Macbeth. In that kingdom they have flourished in much esteem and honour to the present day ; connected by marriage with the royal families of Scotland and France, and the Medici, Grand Dukes of Tuscany; always in the most cordial esteem with their sovereigns, and eminent for disinterested and devoted loyalty ; which was especially proved in the reigns of the unfortunate Mary, James I., Charles I., and James II. Like Thirlestan^ when their aid was needed, they were " Ready, aye ready, for the fi^it" The gallant defence of the Castle of Edinburgh for James II. (saving any error of judgment) by a Duke of Grordon, with a very small garrison, which he paid himself, is one of the bravest exploits in history. And their brave and generous qualities have continued to the present day : the present Duke of Gordon is one of the most deservedly popular noblemen in the united kingdom. We happen to know, from private authority, that this sketch is so far from being flattering, that a great deal more might have been said of this family within the bounds of the strictest justice. The late Duke of Richmond was Lord Lieutenant of Ire- land from 1807 to 1813, and in that always difficult situation (though there was then no Agitator) was, we believe, uni- versally popular. He was also, if we mistake not, at one period Governor-General of Canada. His Grace died in 181 9» and was succeeded by his son Charles, the present Duke, bom 1791, who married, in 1817, Lady Caroline Paget, bom 1796, the eldest and beautiful daughter of the Marquess of Anglesey, by Lady Charlotte Villicrs, daughter of Earl Jersey, now BIClfMOND FAMILY. 4«7 Duchess of Argyle (vide Lodge). The duke is a Knight ai the Garter, Privy Councillor, Post-Master-General, Vice-Ad- miral, or, more properly speaking, Admiral of Sussex, an office lately revived, Colonel of Royal Sussex Militia, Militia Aide- de-Camp to the King, High Steward of Chichester, Com- missioner for Colonial Emigration, Chairman of the Com- mittee on West Indian Slavery, &c. &c. &c- To speak of the living is generally fulsome : the duke is well known as m puhhc character ; but it gives us pleasure to be able to speak with unmixed satisfaction of his conduct in these times of pcA- tical excitation, although we have some lingering predilectkn for principles now << A little oat of fashion /" and are the less inclined to abandon them because tbey per- tain to the weaker party. If we could not have spoken sincerely, we really trust that the reader who has done us the honour of following us thus far, will believe that we should have been silent ; or we have wandered some hundreds <^ leagues from our reckoning. We feel firmly persuaded, that Avhilst his Grace has, and would, cheerfully comply with sudi alterations as a wonderful change of time and circumstances has rendered most desirable for the general prosperity, be would agree only in those measures which should repair, not subvert, the integral bulwarks of a constitution tried by ages and cemented with blood ; and that if further rash measures were projected to destroy the justly arranged equipoise which " bears up the pillars of it," he would be one of the first to stand in the breach, and save the assailants from the consfr. quences of their own imprudence. We hope that his Grace, and other well-wishers to their country of all parties, may Kve to see (though we fear at this moment we may not, and that this may be E xtre m um concede laboran) the noon of that prosperity, alone to be founded on rooderadon and conciliation, the first faint dawn of which now glimmers on the horizon, after the dangers and perplexities of a night of doubt, anxiety, and trouble ! 4S8 COAST OF SUSSEX. PRESENT DDKE OF HICHMONITS CHILDREN. ' ' « Charles, Eari of March and Damley . born 1818 Lady Caroline Amelia .... 1819 Lord Fitzioy George Charles . . . 1820 Lord Henry Charles George . . . 1821 Lord Alexando- Francis Charles . . 1825 Lady AognsU Catherine .... 1827 Lady Lucy Frances ..... 1828 Lwd Geo^ 1829 Lady Amdia Frederics . . . . 1830 BROTHERS AND SISTERS. Lady Mary, bora 1790; married, 1820, LieaU-Cther and heir of the present Lord De Roos. Lady Jane, bora 1798 ; married, 1822, Lawrence Peel, Esq. Lord William Ktt, b teraber 9th, 1675; and Duke of Anl»gny in France, in Janoary, 1683-4, 41 Louis XrV. " Amu. — Quarterly, first and fourth, the arms of France and Kngfan^^ quarterly ; the second, Scotland ; and the third, Ireland (being the arms of Charles II.), the whole within a border compone. Argent and gules, the first charged with Terdoy of roses of the second, and seeded proper: over all, in an escutcheon, the arms of Aubigny, viz. guUs, three oval backles. Or, " Crest. — On a chapeau, gules, turned up ermine, a lion statant, guardant* Or, crowned with a ducal coronet, guUs, and gorged with a collar goboo^ charged as the border in the coat. " Supporters. — On the dexter side, an unicorn. Argent, armed, crested, and hoofed, Or. On the sinister, an antdope, argent, armed, maned, and hoofed, as the dexter. Each supporter gorged, as the crest. " Motto.— KH LA ROSE JB rLKCRlE.** — ColUtU. 429 TUNBRIDGE-WELUS. « aqiue mm didor oraa." We had originally undertaken to give an account of this pleasing and jiopular watering place, which, though not oo the Coast of Sussex, forms an auxiliary to it, and is very frequently visited from Brighton and Hastings; and we had, as in the case of Worthing, a plea^ng former association with it, in- clining us not to omit it. Our notice must, however, now, from the great length to which we have already run, be 'of the briefest nature. We are now out at sea, to an extent which we had little calculated ; we have, by the printer's log- book, wandered eighty miles (pages) beyond the designed en J of our course. Whether we are approaching the '* Cape of Good Hope,"" or may flatter ourselves, like Ariosto, with hear- ing, at a distance, the sound of bells and the voices of gratula- tion. Heaven only knows, and time alone will show. Many and various are the events which time brings in its train ; — ^it is sometimes the repairer of disappointments, and the redresser of wrongs. It is scarcely necessary to inform our readers that a clever fittle work, on Tunbridge-Wells and its vicinity, has been lately published by Mr. Britton, one of the patriarchs of English antiquarian and topographical lore. There is, there- fore, the less need for us to enlarge on its origin, or state the accidental discovery of its mineral virtues by a nobleman in the reign of James I., its subsequent occupation by the Court when London was devastated by the plague, as may be seen in detail in the dissolute Memoirs of Grammont; the queen, however, and others of merit and interest, being present; or the gradually increasing influence which it has attained until the present day, when amongst its most beneficial patrons it ranks the Duchess of Kent and the Princess Victoria. On the subject of the celebrated Beau Nash, alone, by whom its 490 COAST OF SUSSEX. fashionable settlement was brought to its perfection, do we digress a little, for a reason which we shall speedily communi- cate. Nash's history is more immediately involved in the annals of Bath than those of Tunbridge- Wells ; still he was for a series of years the Arbiter Elegantiarum at the latter, the despotic though useful lord of its ascendancy possessing an absolute rule, founded on opinion and policy alone, to which the highest nobility and even princes bowed without demur or murmur. His external demonstrations of consequence at Tunbridge- Wells are said to have been very splendid, as he always travelled thither from Bath in a chariot and six grays, attended by out-riders with French-horns, &c. &c. We are of course far from offering this curious individual as a correct character ; still he had some redeeming qualities of ardent good feeling and humanity, which are pleasing to meet with and relate. Some also of his good institutions did not die with him ; the most important of them was the Free Hospital at Bath, which is still flourishing ; and at his funeral he was mourned with unaffected tears by the poor to whom he had been ever an active benefactor, and it is said that in cases when he was unable to relieve distress it was accustomed to melt him to tears! The following anecdotes are contained in a biography of Nash in our possession, written a few months after h'ls death ; we have never seen them quoted in any work (though we cannot answer for that not having been done), xmd are there^ fore induced to give them insertion. *' When he was to gire in his accompts to the masters of the Temple^ among other articles, he charged, for " maldng one man happy," 10/. Being questioned about the meaning of so strange an item, he frankly declared, that, happening to over-hear a poor man declare to his wife and a large family of children, that 10/. would make him happy, he could not avoid trying the experiment He added, that, if they did not choose to acquiesce in his charge, he was ready to refund the money. The Masters, struck with such an uncommon instance of good-nature, publicly thanked him for his benevolence, and desired that the sum might be doubled, as a proof of their satisfaction.'' ** When the late Elarl of T d was a youth, he was passionately fond of play, and never better pleased than with having Mr. Nash for hia apta« TWBRIDGB-WKLLS. 4St gonist Nash saw with concern his Lordship's foible, and undertook to cure him, though by a very disagreeable remedy. Conscious of his own superior skill, he determined to engage him in single play for a very consi- derable sum. His Lordship, in proportion as he lost his game, lost his temper too ; and, as he approached the gulf, seemed still more eager for ruin. He lost his estate; some writings were put into the winner's pos- session ; his very equipage was deposited as a last stalce, and he lost that also. But, when our generous gamester had found his Lordship sufficiently punished for his temerity, he returned all; only stipulating, that he should be paid five thousand pounds, whenever he should think proper to make the demand. However, he never made any such demand during his Lord- ship's life ; but some time after his decease, Mr. Nash's affairs being in the wane, he demanded the money of his lordship's hdrs, who honooraUj paid it without any hesitation. " A gentleman of broken fortune, one day standing behind his dair, as he was playing a game of picquet for two hundred pounds, and observing with what indifference he won the money, could not avoid whispering these words to another who stood by : ' Heavens ! how happy would all that mo- ney make me ! ' Nash, overhearing him, clapped the money into his hand^ and cried. Go and be happy I " Nash used sometimes to visit the great Dr. Clarke. The Doctor was one day conversing with Locke, and two or three more of his learned and intimate companions, with that freedom, gaiety, and cheerfulness, which is ever the result of innocence. In the midst of thdr mirth and laughter, the Doctor, looking from the window, saw Nash's chariot stop at the door. — * Boys, boys,' cried the philosopher, to his frioids, * let us now be wise, for here is a fool coming.' " " Dr Cheney once, when Na^ was ill, drew up a prescription for him, which was sent in accordingly. The next day the Doctor, coming to see his patient, found him up and well ; upon which he asked, if he had followed his prescription ? * Followed your prescription f cried Nash; * No — Egad, if I had, I should have broke my neck; for I flung it out of the two-pair of stairs window.' " With these brighter traits there were undoubtedly, in this whimsical character, much folly and affectation, not unmixed with vice. In his old age, his wit too much degenerated inta peevishness and satire, with this alleviating excuse, that he found himself in a reduced and saddened condition, having outlived many of his patrons, and having been treated with that ingra- titude so sadly common in the world, thrown by as a neglected toy by those to whose pleasure he was less able to contribute. When he was, however, on the eve of want and despair, the Corporation of Bath stepped forward, and, as some token of gratitude for his great services to that city, allowed him an annuity of ten guineas a month, a sum which, though more 432 COAST OF 8US8KX. valuable then than that at the present day, was, to a man <^ his erratic and expensive habits, a bare subsistence. He died in the year 1762, and had a grand public funeral. Tunbridge- Wells was also a favourite resort of Ridiard- son, and was visited by Dr. Johnson and other eminoit wits of the last century. One of its most dbtinguished settled in- habitants was Cumberland, " the Terence of England — the mender ct hetrts,' who laboured sedulously to infuse into his dramatic com- positions as strong a bias to the interests of virtue and inno- cence as the nature of the subject would admit, in whield hurst and Frant,about34miles distant from London. Its site, on three hills, is almost as well known as that of Rome. One of these, however. Mount Pleasant, is inconsiderable. Mount Sion contains the principal part of the old buildings, exclusive of the Wells and Parade, whilst Mount Ephraim is a<^;cnded by one principal walk, with a variety of diverging ones up the romantic and beautiful com- mon, covered in parts with rich furze, in others with trees, and diversified by rocks. This situation commands the most bracing air in the neighbourhood, and the view from it is beautifuL We could here favour the reader with a dozen pages of description TVKBmiOGE WKLLS. 433 of the general beauties and local details of TunbridgeWells from recollection, but that prudence, for the reasons we have before stated. Vdlit et admamaXi — only, we would not have been supposed that we thought lest highly of it than any other place we have described in this volume. The spacious improvements * at Tunbridge Wdls, in th* neighbourhood of the London road, called Calverley Park Crescent, Parade, &c we have not seen, and must refCT" the reader to the description of Mr. Brittoo. The virtues and qualities of the waters must be sought out in medical works of authority. They are well known to con- tain a very powerful modicum of steel. In this respect the place resembles ancient Elba, though its gifts are suited to a more pacific and useful purpose. " Inexhausds dialybam gen e ro sa metaffis." The Parade, formerly called, from its pavement, the Pan> tiles, is a very pleasant walk, divided into an upper and lower one, the former protected by a colonnade. A very good and scientific band of music, supporte(^by subscription, plays here three times a day. The sheltered situation under Mount !Ephraim, and the fine row of elms, add much to its pIcA- surable appearance. Here is the handsome Assembly-room, the highly respectable Libraries, and the Theatre-f, one of the best conducted out of London. The Baths of all kinds are inclosed in a handsome building, at the end of the Parade. * We avafl ouraelres of this word to perfonn aa act of «trict justice witk reference to our statement at page 140, line 17, in the Description of Brigfatoo. We have since been made acquainted that the dissensioos tliere alluded to Ihitb been remedied, and that the sea wall of the 3Iarine Parade is going on with f 'Ulien we spoke so strongly against Mr. Alichael KeDj, in our account of Brighton, we did not know that ^liss Kelly was his niece : that alone could make as regret having said it ; and if there were any chance of her seeing it, we would apologise to her upright spirit for any thing which might cause it annoyance. F F 434 COAST OF SUSSEX. The Chapel of Ease is a fine venerable building, erected in 1684- and 1696, at an expense of 2300L It is divided transversely from the entrance into two aisles, and has a mas- sively rich ceiling, and a good though small organ. The new Church, erected by Mr. Decimus Burton, but, we believe, with much restriction as to the cost, is a heavy structure. There is a School and other charitable institutions. The neighlx>urhood of Tun bridge- Wells abounds with in- teresting objects, including Brambletye House, the seat of one of Horace Smith's novels. Why is his pen now idle ? Bay- ham Abbey is an extensive and interesting ruin ; the High Rocks have in themselves and vicinity some of the milder fea- tures of North Wales. Rusthall has the remains of beautiful gardens in a picturesque dell, and a fine bath of clear wato:. Tunbridge town has the tower of a Norman castle and an old church, lately enlarged : of this place was the celebrated scholar and moral essayist. Dr. Knox : Speldhurst church has these curious epitaphs on Sir Walter and Lady Ann Waller, about 1600; the former in the quaint and piquant style of the times, the latter both acrostic and retrospectively ana- grammatical :— I'd praise thy valour, but Mars 'ginp to frown; He fears when Sol's doft that Mars must down. I'd praise thy form, but Venus cries ftmain^ Sir Walter Waller will my Adon stain. I'd praise thy learning, but Minenra criea, — Then Athens' fame must creep when Waller flies. Assist us, England, in our doleful song, AVhen such limbs fade thy flourish lasts not long ; Earth has his earth, which doth his corpse inioD ; Angels sing requiems to his Uessed sooL A 11 worthy eyes read this, that hither oome^ N ever decaying virtue fills this tomb ; N ever enough to be lamented here, A B long as womankind are worth a tear. W ithin this weeping stone lies lady WaDer, A 11 that will know her more, a saint will call her ; L ife so directed her whilst living here, L evell'd so straight to God, in love and fear; E ven so good, that turn her name and aee^ R eady to crown that life a lawbel tree. TUNBRIOOE WELLS. 4d5 Hever Castle was the residence of Sir Thomas, father of Anne BuUen ; great part of it still remains in good preserva- tion, solid but heavy, and is used as a dwelling-house. Of many other beautiful rides round Tunbridge-Wells, we have not now the opportunity to speak. We terminate our account with Penshurst, the ancient seat of the Sidneys, endeared by the recollections of Sir Philip Sydney and of Waller, still occupied by one of the original family, who has married a daughter of the King, and His Majesty has assisted in the reparation of the ancient seat, which cont^ns a fine hall, beautiful tapestry, and much furniture, given by Queen £]iza. beth. The appearance of the Places decent and venerable church with pinnacled tower, and small town embosomed in trees, across the river Medway, is, especially when all the associations are called to mind, one of the most interesting that can be met with. — We close our devious course inland, but wish to return in recollection, and pay a final tribute of attachment to the unequalled Ocean, with which we first began: — " PRIMA DICTB MTHT, 8UMMA DICENDE, CAMffiNA." yiKis. LONDON; DAVISON, BIMMON8, AND CO., WHUBTBIABB. H ■^ ^j - V I iai,,^,,^,^^emtmttmkkmmmi6amamiittmiimimaamimmmmtiitmtm omd In $ubdu9d tgttt » Ch m ytmtttI mt kmMn ri gtdimpttem Uchl ttnl^gen • Cargar bafo ku it V^^ NDCMK CANADA MC JV "1 Idranao. 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