v^iT' ■ Lx^L^Bo CONTINENTAL AND ORIENTAL TRAVELS: EXCURSIONS FEANCE, ITALY, EGYPT, SINAI, PALESTINE, AND SYPJA. BIBLICAL ELUCIDATIONS AND HISTORICAL NOTES. JOHN BEOCKLEBANK. LONDON: HAMILTON, ADAMS, & Co., PATERNOSTER ROW; SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & Co., STATIONERS'-HALL-COURT, LEEDS: H. W. WALKER, 37, BRIGGATE. ilDCCCLXV. PEEFACE. It may have surprised my Friends that, having spent the principal part of my life in a rural retreat, I should be induced to wander from my native country, and face the perils of a journey by land and sea, extending over thousands of miles. And as I pre- sume none but Friends will interest themselves in my adventures, I can have no hesitation in revealing the motives by which I was influenced. I travelled that I might gain a more comprehensive and particu- lar knowledge of the World, especially respecting the Eeligious Condition of its Inliabitants. • When it pleased God to convert my soul, I began to "Search the Scriptures" for the "Words of Eternal Life," and as my experience became enlarged, I directed attention to the study of Human Nature. My faith in the Sacred Writings was thus confirmed, 2000205 Tl. PEEFACE. for I observed that the Character and Conduct of men improved in proportion as they yielded to their guidance. After studying Eeligion and Humanity at home for about five and twenty years, I conceived a desire personally to know something of the Manners, Customs and Eeligions of Foreigners. I set out ac- cordingly in the Spring of 1862, on a Tour upon the European Continent, passing through Trance, and visiting Italy. And so much was I interested with wliat I had seen, that I afterwards resolved, the Lord permitting, to visit Egypt, the Desert of Sinai, and the Holy Land. Mr. Plummer, of Leeds, pro- posed that two of his sons should accompany me in the latter journey, which I regarded as a favourable circumstance, since in the former, I had felt the in- convenience of being alone. It may be useful here to remark, that we obtained Circular Notes on application to Messrs. Coutts & Co., Bankers, London, who have Eepresentatives through- out the CiviKsed World. We found these convenient as being at once portable and safe. Passports can be procured from the Foreign Office through the recom- mendation of a friendly Banker. These are vised PREFACE. Vll. by authorised Officials of the Countries specified in them. In the present Work, which is my first attempt at Authorship, I innate my Friends more to regard the matter furnished than the manner in wliicli it is presented. I have not scrupled to avail myself of every aid within reach, often adopting the language of my Authors, and not always deeming it necessary to mention their names. I therefore here apprise the Reader that he is not perusing a History exclusively of my Travels and Eesearches, but a Narrative into which the Experience and Information of others are interwoven. He may, however, rest assured that whatever he finds in the following pages is Authentic, or at least generally reported as such. What I have not personally witnessed, I have spared no pains to verify. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I.— FRANCE. Departui-e— Boulogne— Paris— Tuileries— Lou vi-e— Triumphal Arch- Port Maillot— Bois de Boulogne— Chapel Marbseuf— La Madeleine- Palais Koyal— Louvi-e- Notre Dame de Lorette— Notre Dame— St. Roche — Luxembourg— St. Genevieve— St. Germain L' Auxrios— St. Germain Des Pres- Invalides— St. Sulpice— Ecole des Beaux Arts — Etienne du Mont— Pera La Chaise— Hotel de Cluny— St. Clotilde —Greek Church — Wesleyan Chapel— American Church— Fountains — Protestantism — Population— St. Denis— VERSiULLES — Fontain- BLEAU— Lyons— Peter Waldo- Marseilles— Aspect of the Country Pages 1-20 CHAPTER II.— ITALY. Mesageries Imperials— Naples— Theatre of San Carlo— St. Gennario —St. Sevei-us — Museum — Villa Reale — Markets — Population — Religion— Vesuvius— Ei-uptions-Crater— Accident at the Observa- tory— Pompeii— Herculaneum — Civita Vecchia — Rome— Lodg- ings—Seven Hills— Colosseum— Nero's Tower— Prison of the Apostles — Site of St. Peter's Crucifixion — Castle of St. Angelo— Vatican — St. Peter's— History — Cost— Measurements— Admission — Visit of the Prince of Wales — View from the Balcony — Interior — Confessional —Dialogue— Religious Ceremonies— Palm Sunday— Ash Wednes- day—Holy Thiu-sday- Washing the Disciples' Feet— Good Friday- Easter Simday — Benediction — Illuminations — Fireworks — Churches— Basilica San Paolo— Santa Maria Maggiore— San Gio- vanni in Laterano— Marble Stairs— Walls— Anglican Chapel — Popu- lation — Streets — Reminiscences Pages 21-65 X. CONTENTS. CHAPTER III— EGYPT. Voyage — Irish Channel — Atlantic — Gibraltar— Convicts — Fortifica- tions—Markets—Mediterranean Coasts — Malta— Harbour of Val- letta— To\vn — Population — Markets — Garrison — Sirocco — Harbour of Alexandria — Origin of the Egyptians — Historical Sources — Mizraim — Saracens — Turks — Arabs — Rahab — Early History — Patriarchal Age — Ancient Dynasties — Political Relations to Israel — Cape Rounded by Necho— Decay— Prophecies— Mahomet— Early History — Koran — Visions — First Converts — Entertainment of Koreish — Preaching — Night Journeys — Year of Mourning — Hegira — Suc- cesses — Pilgrimage of the Valediction — Death — Person — Mahometan Superstition — Modern History — Christianity — Mahometanism — Changes of Dynasty— Mamelukes— Tm-ks — Mehemet AU — Massacre of Mamelukes — Prosperity under Mehemet— Ibraham — Greek Expe- dition — Abbas — Law of Succession — People — Physique — Painting- Ophthalmia — Beautiful Teeth — Hair — Education — Serfdom of Women — Hospitality — Costume — Of Men— Frohibition of Silk^ Girding up the Loins — Tui-ban — Sandals — Of Women — Ornaments— Veils — Dress of the Poor— Domestic Relations— Courtship — Betro- thals — Marriage Feasts — Wedding Garment — Divorce — Mahomet's Advice to Husbands — Polygamy- -Slaves — Funerals —Processions — Wallers— Interments— Coffins— Slavery— Dealers — Masters— Brand — Bastinado— Manumission Pages 66-116 CHAPTER IV.— EGYPT— CONTINUED. Alexandria— Great Square— Pompey's Pillar — Cleopatra's Needles — Pasha's Gardens — Catacombs — Ruins — St. Mark — Apollos — Journey to Cairo— Cairo— Donkeys— Citadel — Mosque of Mehemet Ali — Joseph's Well — Joseph's Granaries — Tombs— Shoobra — Mosques — Moueddin — Esbekiah Gardens — Squares — Christian Churches — Sa,id Pasha — Streets — Watermen — Santons — Hairy Garments — Runners — Houses — Fountains — Divans — Pillows — Furniture — Windows — Inscriptions — Lattices — Secret Doors — Gates — Population — Visit to the Pyramids — Artificial Hatching -Pyramids in Sight — Pyramid of Cheops — Ascent — Summit — Descent — Entrances— Sphynx — Description — Conjecture of Dr. Stanley — Monuments — Nile — Som-ce — Reminiscences — Inundations — Irrigation of Land — Biblical Allusions — Agriculture — Fruitfulness — Thrashing — Climate — Petrified Forest — Excursion to Heliopolis — Ai-ab Village — Goshen — Heliopolis — Refuge of Joseph and Mary — Remarks Pages 117-157 CONTENTS. XI. CHAPTER v.— THE DESERT OF SINAI. Journey from Cairo — Preparations — Contract -with Di-agoman— Caravan — Suez — Overland Route to India— Suez Canal — Wells of Moses — Red Sea — Passage of the Children of Israel— Life in THE Desert— Camel— Pitching [Tents — Encampment— Baldng— Waters OF Marah — Wadt Ghurfndel — Wells and Palms of Elim — Wilderness— Encampment by the Sea— Stair-Rock — Valley op Writing — Wady Feiran- Traditional Rephidim - Plain of Rahah — Content of St. Catherine — Church of the Transfiguration- Chapel of Helena — Chamel House— Mosque — Sinai— Ascent— Relation of Sinai to Horeb— Wai/ through Pe^ra— Flight of Cranes— Eetukn to AiEXAMDBiA — Reflections Pages 158-186 CHAPTER VI.— PALESTINE— Jerusalem. Alexandria to Jerusalem^ Joppa from the Bay— Landing— Town — Crrave of Dorcas — House of Simon tli£ Tanner — Vision of Peter — Plain of Sharon — Rose — Mirage — Lydda— Sepulchre of Dorcas — St. George — Ramleh — Arabian Steed — Approach to Jerusalem — Prussian Hospice— JERUSALEM— Dragoman — View of the City from the Mount of Olives — Hills of Jerusalem— Mount Zion— Moriah — Calvary— Akra — Bezetba— Mountains around Jerusalem— Olivet — Galilee Hill— Hill of Ascension— Hill of Offence— Scopus— Hill of Evil Counsel — Ratines — Valley of Hinnom — Potter's Field — Valley of Jehoshaphat— Grethsemane — Tyropoean— Pools — Pools of Gihon — Siloam — Fountain of the Virgin — En-Rogel — Bethesda — Pool of Bath- sheba — Buildings — Mosque of Omar — El-Aksa — Harem — Chm-ch of the Holy Sepulchre — Tomb of Our Lord — Angel's Chapel— CJuipel of the ApiMrition — Stone of Unction, al street, is glutted with a motley crowd of Citizens, Wild Arabs, Foreign Pilgrims, Camels, Mules, Horses, and Donkeys. Nevertheless, the ^vretchedly poor are so numerous that if Dorcas were again raised from the dead she might find full employment for her benevolence. The Grave of Dorcas. — The British Consul at Joppa found a Sarcophagus in one of his Gardens, which he presented to the Armenian Convent at Jerusalem. No doubt this was the Grave of Dorcas, for nobody can prove that it was not, and that is suffi- cient to satisfy the Monks that it was ! Perhaps some successor of the Empress Helena will one day be erecting in the Consul's Garden a "Church of the Sepulchre of St. Dorcas." 190 SIMON'S HOUSE — PETER'S VISION. The. House of Simon the Tanner, or that which is shewn to the Faithful as such, is a comparatively modern building, which may, nevertheless, have been placed upon the true Site. It is close " on the sea- shore," for the waves beat against the low wall of its court-yard, in whicli yard also there is a Spring of fresh water, such as woidd be indispensable to the business of a Tanner. Tlie house is entered from the street in which stand the Latin and Armenian Convents, and is occupied by Mussulmans, who re- gard the place as sacred, and have a small Mosque, or praying place, in one of the rooms, to commemo- rate the fact that " the Lord Jesus here asked God for a meal, and a table came down at once." This is manifestly a confusion of the history of the Sheet let down to Peter. It win be admitted that there was a remarkable propriety in the revelation of this Vision to Peter at Joppa, seeing it had special reference to the Opening of the Gospel to the Gentiles. For here the Apostle looked out upon the Western World from the edge of the Mediterranean, in which direction Providence has ordered that the Tide of Evangelization should roll. And it is further remarkable that Cornelius, the first- fruits of the Gentile harvest, should hear the Gospel at CfBsarea, a place similarly situated, and founded by Herod with a special view to intercourse with the West. PLAIN OF SHARON — ROSE. 191 The Plain of Sharon. — We were waited on at the Hotel by a Dragoman, who proposed to supply us with horses for our journey to Jerusalem. A party of five of us agreed with him for ten francs each, and two francs each additional for a mule to carry our baggage. The distance is thirty-six miles. I selected the horses, and chose a very quiet animal for my young friend, who was not accustomed to horse- exercise, while for myself I found a genuine Arabian, very frisky at first, but gentle enough as we advanced in our journey. Lea"\dng Joppa, we were soon on our way across the vast Plain of Sharon, which is much larger tlian the Plain of T}'Te, Acre, or even Esdraelon. For it is bounded on the North by Carmel, and stretches away Southward, so as to include the whole territory of the Philistines. It was the great Pasture- land West of the Jordan, as " The Mishor" was on the East. As its name indicates, it is comparatively Smooth, or apparently free from rocks ; but it is far from being level, for it is agreeably varied by long swells. In riding over these for four hours, we found the comfort of English saddles we took precaution to purchase when at Malta. The " Eose of Sharon," of which Solomon sings so sweetly, Dr. Thompson seems inclined to identify with a kind of Marsh Mallow, which grows into a stout bush, and bears thousands of beautiful flowers. These abound in the Plain, but at present, at least, there are no Eoses there, except 192 MIE AGE — L YDD A. the "wild kind, whicli are occasionally found in their ever accompanying thorny thickets. That curious optical phenomenon, called the Mirage, also, is fre- quently seen upon this Plain, giving the inexperi- enced traveller the most profound persuasion that he is approaching a Lake of transparent water. Dr. Wilson tells us that the Sanscrit name for ]\Iirage means, " The Thirst of the Antelope," which, it wiU be admitted, is beautifully poetic. The Arab name is Scrab; and, perhaps, Isaiah refers to this deceitful phenomenon, where he promises that the Serab shall become a real Lake. Thus, not "the parched groimd," but " the Mirage shall become a Pool." (Isa. xxxv. 7.) Lydda, now called " Lydd," or as it is written in the Old Testament, in our version, " Lod," (1 Chro. viii. 12; Ezra ii. 33;) lay slightly to the North of our road. In the Acts of the Apostles, it is said to be "nigh unto Joppa." It is interesting to the Christian Traveller as the scene of the curing of Eneas, and the place whence Peter was fetched to Joppa, upon the death of Dorcas. (Acts ix. 32 — 39.) It is now a flourishing Village of some 2,000 in- habitants, and is embosomed in noble Orchards of olive, fig, pomegranate, mulberry, sycamore, and other trees, and surrounded by a very fertile neighbour- hood. But, like most of the towns in this country, it has seen better days. There are remains of large well constructed buildings mingled ^^ith the modern ST. GEORGE — RAMLEH. 193 huts, and several extensive Soap Factories are now deserted and falling into decay. To the English traveller Lydda has the peculiar interest of being the reputed birth place and place of burial of St. George, the Patron Saint of his Country ! According to the Calendars he was born here; towards the close of the Third Century suffered martyrdom in the Diocletian Persecution at Ni- comedia, after which his body was conveyed to his native place. To his honour the Church of St. George was erected, the remains of which are still standing, and prove it to have been a superior struc- ture. The material, a pale yellow rock, cut from the Quarries on the road to Jerusalem, is very hard and takes a good polish. Eamleh. — After a very pleasant ride across the Plain of Sharon, we arrived at Eamleh, probably the "Eamah," or " Hainathaim" (1 Sam.i. 1, Heb. and LXX.), where Samuel was born, resided, and was buried. It is also the "Arimathea" of the New Testament, which is manifestly a name formed upon Eamathaim. Here, therefore, the " Honourable Councillor " lived who " begged the body of Jesus," and, with Nico- demus, had it embalmed and laid in the Sepulchre. Upon the site assigned to the House of Joseph, a Christian Church was built, which in time became a ruin, and furnished materials for a Mosque, that still stands upon the ground. The site of the House of 194 Livrm coni^ent of rajmleh. Nicodemiis is covered with a Latin Convent, said to be the largest in Syria ; but this is a mistake, and possibly it is also a mistake respecting the site. This Convent is one of several belonging to the Eomanists and Greeks, whose inmates consider them- selves bound to "entertain strangers," providing them for a given time with bread and water, without charge. It is usual, however, to make them a present, unless the traveller is poor, and to omit this is con- sidered unhandsome. We remained here one night,, and were provided not with bread and water merely, but also with wine, soup, eggs, and other delicacies. The chief architectural attraction of Eamleh, is the Tower, which stands on high ground about a quarter of a nule West of the town, and rising 120 feet from the ground. Every traveller should ascend this beautiful erection, as from its gallery there is a most interesting view of the plaia. The Town, (whose population is 3,000, two-thirds of whom are Muslems and the rest Christians,) is embosomed in olive-groves and orchards, with palms, sycamores, and carobs, the pods of which are the " husks " men- tioned in the parable of the Prodigal Son. Few of its buildings, or even ruins, are earlier than the time of the Crusades. The vegetable gardens, fields of grain, and hedges of cactus, as well as the groves and orchards, invest it with an air of luxuriance. The Arabian Steed. — The next mornins we rose ARABIAN STEED. 195 before day, took coffee in the Convent, and by six o'clock were again on the road. After riding several hours, we came to a Cafe, where Ave took refreshment, and saw a woman so unmercifully beat her servant, that the poor creature fell down apparently in a dying state, but sprinkling her face with cold water, she revived. Leaving this place, we began to ascend the Mountains of Judea, which run up to Jerusalem. The way became so rugged now, that no English- trained horse could keep his feet ; but we travelled safely, not even fearing danger. The Arabian nags are certainly the best I have ever ridden. They are not more than fourteen hands high ; but their action is very superior. Providence seems especially to have adapted them for their work, as there are no carriage roads in this country, and the saddle is con- sequently the only mode of travelling. In these rugged and romantic passes there are few smiths to replace the shoes or flat round plates when they fall from the horses' feet ; but the hoofs of the creatures are so hard that they can go well without shoes, and are scarcely ever foot-sore. Some of the mountains over which these animals travel are so rugged, that it is like going up and dovm flights of steps, yet so strong are their sinews, that they seldom flounder, which is a mercy, as they sometimes pass along very narrow ridges overhanging frightful precipices. It is customary to ride with a slack rein. 196 APPROACH TO JERUSALEM — HOSPICE. Approach to Jerusalem. — Onward we moved ■until within half-an-lioiir's ride of Jerusalem, without getting a glimpse of the Holy City. The Moimt of Olives was the first object which burst upon our gaze; next, what is called New Jerusalem, consisting of a Greek Convent, Schools, a Patriarch's House, and other erections, altogether a cluster of very fine buildings, put up by the Eussians. Every fresh ob- ject in succession came upon my \'ision with a charm which still raised my anticipations — the moments were of breathless interest. At length, at a little past 3 P.M., we arrived at the Jaffa Gate. But action and reaction are reciprocal. As I rode into the City, I felt greatly disappointed, and soliloquised, " Is this Jerusalem, beautiful for situation, the joy of the whole earth " ! — Is this the centre of so much attrac- tion, the ancient " City of the Great King " ! — Is this the reno"v^Tied Lletropolis of Christendom ! But I checked these musings, and resolved to judge nothing before the time. The Prussian Hospice. — Hotels in Jerusalem pre- sent but a choice of evils. The " jNIediterranean," or " English Hotel," is the best, but is capable of de- cided improvement in cleanliness and order. At this place we dismissed our horses, sat down to a Table d'Hote, and after resting a little, took a porter with our baggage and went to the "Prussian Hospice." This had been recommended to us in preference to JERUSALEM. 197 the Latin Convent, to which strangers usually resort, as connected Avith the English Church, and open more especially for the reception of Protestants. It is justly noted for order and cleanliness ; and as a limited number only can be accommodated, the com- pany is select. We were domiciled with a Clergyman from Bagdad, a Graduate of one of our Universities from London, and a Vice Consul. These were all gentlemen of agreeable manners; and with such society in such a place, we were of course very comfortable. JERUSALEM. Before rising in the morning, my mind mused upon the associations of the City of God, which, notwith- standing the imfavourable impression I had received, filled me with joyous anticipation. Breakfast ended, we applied to our Host to procure us a Guide whom he could recommend as trustworthy, having a good knowledge of the j)lace, and able to speak a little English. He introduced a young man named Hanna Habesh, a Eomanist, whom we liked much, and ac- cordingly engaged. In attempting a description of the Holy City, I shall not follow the order in which oiu- Guide conducted us, but range the various mat- ters of interest under distinct heads. 198 GENERAL VIEW OF JERUSALEM. VIEW OF THE CITY EEOM THE MOUNT OF OLIVES. The best general view of Jerusalem is obtained from the Mount of Olives. So commanding is the situation, that the eye roams over the streets and around the walls as if in the smwey of a Plan or Model of the place. A spectator standing here is at once convinced that the City is seated on the brow of one large hill, divided by name into several smaller ones, the whole gently sloping from the West. It forms an irregular square, with its shortest side facing the East, and in this is the supposed Gate of the ancient Temple, now closed up, and the Pro- jecting Stone on which Mahomet is to sit when the world is judged in the Vale of Jehoshaphat below! The Southern side is exceedingly irregidar, taking quite a zigzag direction ; the South- West extreme being terminated by the Mosque built over the sup- posed Sepulchre of David, on the simimit of Mount Zion. The place has the appearance of a great For- tification, being surroimded by Walls forty feet high, flanked at irregular distances by square Towers with Battlements and Loopholes for arrows or musketry, close to the top. These Walls, whicli are about two miles and a half in circumference, are entered by five Gates, viz.. The Jaffa, The Damascus, St. Stephen's, Dung Gate, and Zion Gate ; besides the Gate of HILLS ON WHICH THE CITY RESTS. 199 Herod and the Golden Gate, now walled np. The most conspicuous object is the Mosque of Omar, erected upon the site and foundations of the Temple. This is esteemed the finest specimen of Saracen architecture. On the South are some Gardens and Vineyards, with the long red Mosque El-Aksa, having two tiers of windows, a sloping roof, and a dark dome at one end. The Mosque of Sion and the Sepid^chre of David are still further to the South. On the "West is seen the high square Castle and Palace of the same monarch, near the Jaffa Gate. In the centre rise the two Cupolas, of unequal form and size ; the one blue and the other white, covering the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which stands on the Hill of Calvary. Around, in different directions, are seen the Minarets of eight or ten Mosques, amid an assemblage of about two thousand dwellings, with cupolas rising from their flat roofs. The scene alto- gether was so imposing, that my disappointment on first riding into the City from the opposite quarter was succeeded by the feeling that it was one of the grandest spectacles in the world. AVeU might the Psalmist have exclaimed, when Jerusalem was in her ancient pride, " Glorious things are spoken of thee, City of God ! " (Psa. Ixxxvii. 3.) THE HILLS OF JERUSALEM. The Eminences which undulate upon the Great 200 MOUNT ZION. Hill on which Jerusalem is built, are iive, viz., Zion, Moriah, Calvary, Akra, and Bezetha. Mount Zion, the largest of these hills, was the first occupied by buildings. This also was the famous Stronghold of the Jebusites, which so long defied the armies of Israel, and at length yielded to the military genius of David. (Num. xiii. 29 ; Jos. xv. 63 ; 2 Sam. v. 5 — 8.) Here that monarch built a Palace and a City, which was called after hun "The City of David," and in which, for more than a thousand years, his successors ruled. (2 Sam. v. 9.) To the heights of Zion David also transported the Ark of God, and prepared a Tabernacle for its reception, upon which account Zion is oftentimes in the Psalms styled the " Holy Hill." It is also by synecdoche, because of its importance, put for the whole City of Jerusalem. Here David and fourteen of his succes- sors were buried in the Family Tomb. (1 Kings ii. 10 ; xi. 43 ; xiv. 31.) Upon the slopes of Zion on the South-East, there is a series of Terraces under cultivation, extending to the King's Gardens, where Hinnom, the Tyropoean, and the Kedron miite. When one looks upon these, and upon the declivities round to the South, and contemplates the olives dis- tributed amongst the narrow strips of corn, the words of Micah the Morasthite, spoken twenty-six centuries since, recur upon the memory, — " Zion shall be ploughed like a field." (Jer. xxvi. 18.) This Strong- MOEIAH — CALVARY. 201 hold, which so stoutly stood out against the arms of Israel, was also the last to yield when Jerusalem was besieged by the Eomans under Titus. Mount Moriah is memorable as the place upon which Oman the Jebusite had his Threshing-floor, when " The Angel of the Lord, having a drawn sword in His hand, stretched out from Jerusalem," appeared, from whom Oman and his sons hid them- selves in terror. Perhaps in the Cave we still see below the sacred rock, David also saw Him from the opposite hill of Zion, when he and the elders of Israel inter- ceded for the threatened city. Upon the Threshing- floor of Oman the monarch offered those sacrifices which were consumed by elemental fire, whereupon the plague was stayed. It is not certain that Abra- ham offered up Isaac upon this eminence ; possibly the hill afterwards called Calvary was the scene of that triumph of faith. The Patriarchal history sim- ply specifies a particular mountain or hill in the "Land of Moriah," which "Land" comprehended the whole group of hills upon which Jerusalem is built. Moriah signifies " Vision," — a name which may have been given to that group of eminences as the frequent Theatre of Divine Eevelations. Here the magnificent Temple of Solomon stood, and here the Oracle was established. Mount Calvary, which we have already hinted as. the probable eminence upon which Isaac was offered 202 SCEXE OF THE CKUCIFIXION. in sacrifice " in a figure," is the acknowledged site of our Lord's crucifixion. Had not Abraham a reference to the identity of the Hill upon which Isaac had been offered with that upon which the Lamb was to be offered, whom God was to "provide Hun- self," when he called the name of the place Jehovak- Jireh, viz., " the Lord will see or provide " ? In this view there would have been good reason for the sapng which dated from that event, " In the Mount of the Lord it shall be seen," viz., in Calvary where the Lamb of God was to suffer instead of Isaac, as foreshadowed by the "Eam." (Com. Gen. xxii.) Some writers have questioned whether the hill now called Calvary is indeed the place where Jesus was crucified ; but no other place appears to me so com- pletely to correspond to the Evangelists. They tell us that the rocks were rent ; and here is shewn a Eift, whose sides so exactly agree, that it could not possibly be the work of the Priests. Here also is a Cave, which evidently had been a Sepulchre. Other Sepulchres hard by, are repated to have been those of the family of Joseph of Arimathea. (Com. John xix. 41, and Matt, xxvii. 60.) Truly our Lord was crucified " ^oithout the Gate," and " nigh to the City" (Heb. xiii. 12 ; John. xix. 20), whereas Calvary, as now shown, is ivithin the walls ; but it is known that the City has considerably moved in that direction. The determination of the locahty, how- AKRA — BAZETHA. 203 ever, is a matter of secondary consequence; the Sacred Writings attach less to physical circumstances than to moral truths. That the Son of God died for our redemption is the grand thing with which we are most deeply concerned ; and may His blessed Spirit evermore enable us to realise this glorious truth by the faith of a contrite heart. IMouxT Akra is an eminence which is separated from Zion by the TjTopoean, and the hills so front each other that the rows of houses terminate in the same lines, separated only by the ravine. Anciently there was a broad valley here which was filled up by the Asmoneans, and thus joined to the " Lower City," as the buildings upon Akra are called by Josephus. The valley sweeps round to the opposite side, and there running in between this and the Temple Mount, and extends as far as Siloam. This is called by Josephus the " Valley of the Cheesemongers." Across this Valley Solomon appears to have raised a Bridge, leading from the Eoyal Palace on Mount Zion to the Temple on Moriah, which was " the ascent by which Solomon went up to the House of the Lord." (1 Kin. x. 5.) Mount Bazetha lies over against the Tower of Antonia, but is divided from it by a deep artificial valley. This Eminence is not mentioned in the Bible, but a full account of it is given in Josephus, who writes thus : " The City, overflowing with in- 204 MOUNTAINS ABOUND JEKUSALEM. habitants, gradually crept beyond the walls, and the people incorporating with the City, the quarter North of the Temple close to the liill, made a considerable advance, insomuch that another hill, which is called Bazetha, was also surrounded with habitations." From these new erections the name Bezetha, which signifies "The Xew City," was transferred to the Mount on which they were reared. The time at which this hill began to be occupied by buildings is not precisely given ; but there can be little doubt that under Herod the Great the City increased in ex- tent as well as splendour, and that the increase then took this direction. Eight years after the death of Christ, Herod Agrippa surrounded these buildings with a wall THE MOUNTAINS AEOUND JEEUSALEM. The Mount of Olives, now called Jebel-el-Tur, or the " Mountain of Tur," so named from the Village of Tur which reposes on its summit, rises on the East of Jerusalem, in three Peaks, stretching about a mile from North to South. (1 Kings xi. 7.) Attaining an elevation of 160 feet above the City, and 416 above the Valley of Jehoshaphat, it is ever before the eyes an object of striking interest. Leaving Gethse- mane on the right, and the Virgin's Tomb on the left, we began to ascend the Mount, and as we advanced observed steps and cuttings in the lime- OLIVET — GALILEE HILL. 205 stone rock, which proved the antiquity of the path. In his flight from Absalom, David ascended these. He went "over the Brook Kedron towards the way of the Wilderness . . . and went up by the ascent of Olives, and wept as he went up, and had his head covered ; and he went up barefoot ; and all the people that were with him covered every man his head ; and they went up weeping as they went up." (2 Sam. XV. 23, 30.) On reaching the summit by the Villagje of Tur, we must have been near where the King had been wont to worship God, and where he now met Hushai the Archite (verse 32). The View of Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives has been described ; but there are also other Noble Prospects. Towards the South appears the Lake Asphaltites — a grand expanse of water, seeming within a short ride from the City, but in reality a considerable distance. Lofty mountains enclose it with prodigious grandeur ; and resembling by their position the shores of the Lake of Geneva opposite Lausanne. To the North of the Lake are seen the verdant pastures of Jericho, watered by the Jordan, whose course may be dis- tinctly discerned. For the rest nothing appears of the surrounding country but hills, whose imdulating surface resembles the waves of the sea ; bleak» destitute of wood, and seemingly without cultivation. The Galilee Hill. — The Northernmost of the three Eminences of Olivet is called " The Galilee," 206 HILL OF ASCENSION, ETC. from tlie supposition tliat there tlie Angels stood and said, " Ye men of GaElee, why stand ye gazing up into heaven?" This is the loftiest point of the Mount. The Hill of Ascension. — The second Peak is called "The Ascension/' and is covered with the Mosque and Church of Jebel-el-Tur, on the supposed scene of that event — a supposition, however, which is manifestly at variance with Scripture. The reasons upon which this remark is founded will appear when we come to speak of Bethany. The Hill of Offence. — On the South summit, Solomon is said to have built Temples to the Idols worshipped by his Wives, whence this is called the "HiU of Offence," and also the "Mount of Corruption." Mount Scopus. — To the North of the Mount of Olives is an elevation, in modern times usually called " Mount Scopus," on the supposition of its identity with the hill so called in the account of the Siege of Titus. The Hill of Evil Counsel. — To the South of the Mount of Olives there is another eminence, called the " Hill of Evil Counsel," because, as the Monks say, Caiaphas had a Country House there, at which the Consultation took place when the Priests and Rulers resolved upon the expediency of putting Christ to death. Upon this elevation there is a RAVINES — VALLEY OF HINNOM. 207 single wind-driven tree, called the " Tree of Judas," as it is assumed to mark the spot upon which the Traitor hanged himself. As these flank the East, there are also other Hills on the West, North, and South. To these collectively the Psalmist refers in the well known words : "As the mountains are round about Jerusalem, so the Lord is round about His people." (Psa. cxxv. 2.) THE EAYINES. The Valley of Hinnom. — A deep Eavine, or rather a series of Eavines, surrounds Jerusalem, except on the North- West. From the Jaffa Gate a portion of this series deepens, and forms the Valley of Gilion, which skirts the South of Zion. This is also called "The Valley of the Son of Hinnom" and "Tophet." Bate and Parkhurst construe the latter word to denote a Fire-Stove. Ajiciently a Eire was kept constantly burning in this place to consume the carcases and other offal of the City. From this Isaiah borrows his figure, when, speaking of the defeat of Sennacherib, he says, " Tophet is ordained of old ; yea, for the king it is prepared; He hath made it deep and large. The pile thereof is fire and much wood; the breath of the Lord like a stream of brimstone doth kindle it." (Isa. XXX. 33.) It also supplies the usual figures by which the Place of Final Perdition is described in Scripture, which is therefore called Gehenna^ from 208 potters' field. " Ge" and " Hinnom," or the Valley of Hinnom. Others think the name "Tophet" is given to this gorge because of the sacrifices offered to Moloch there by beat of drum, which in Hebrew is called "Toph." The Statue of Moloch was of brass, hol- low within, ■\\dth its arms extended and stooping forward. A fire was lighted within the Statue and another before it. The Votaries put upon its arms, the Child they intended to sacrifice, which soon fell into the fire at its foot, whereupon a great rattling of drums and other instruments were made to stifle the cries of the Victim. The Potters' Field. — Upon the Southern side of the Valley of Hinnom, is the field now shown as the Aceldama, or " Field of Blood," as it is supposed to be the identical " Potters' Field," purchased with the thirty pieces of silver in consideration of which Judas sold the life of his Lord. (Matt, xxvii. 7, 8; Acts i. 19.) A square Pit, or Charnel House, sunk in the earth, is still sho"vsTi here, probably one of the Tombs in which the "Strangers" were buried, for whose sepulture the Field was purchased. Some travellers assert that the earth is of such a peculiar chemical composition that bodies laid in it decay in twenty-four hours. This, however, is not authentic. A medical gentleman, some time since, examined a sepulchre here and found a num- ber of skulls. JEHOSHAPHAT — GETHSEMANE. 209 The Valley of Jehoshaphat skirts the North of the City, winds round to the East, and runs South- ward as far as the Pool of Siloam. The slopes of Olivet, on the Eastern side of this Valley, are covered with Tombs. The Jews have a singular heKef that wherever they are buried, they will have to pass underground to this Valley to meet ]\Iessiah at the last Judgment, which they hold will take place here. Hence the fervid desire of every Son of Israel to lay his bones in this Vale, insomuch that the Tombs here are more numerous than the houses in tlie City. The famous Brook Kedron flows through the Valley of Jehoshaphat from North to South, and receives the waters of Gihon, as it turns off to the South-East through the Valley of Kedron, and seeks the Dead Sea. This Brook is generally dry, and only flows after the heavy rains. The G-ardex of Gethseilan^e is a Kttle quadran- gular Inclosure, situate in the Valley of Jehoshaphat, on the slope of the Mount of Olives, opposite the Gate of St. Stephen. It is surrounded by high limestone walls, and kept by an old Latin Monk, to whom a small fee is paid by those who desire to enter. We reckoned eight venerable Olives, whose decayed trunks were supported by stones, though their branches are stiU flourishing. Naturalists say that these trees are more than two thousand years old, so that they must have witnessed the agony of our p 210 TYROPCEAX — POOLS OF GIHON. Lord, and His betrayal by Judas. Along that wind- ing path, by -which we had come, was the Man of Sorrows led bound as a Malefactor, when His Dis- ciples forsook Him and fled. Outside the Gate leading into the Garden is a rocky Bank, worn smooth by the kisses of Pilgrims, who hold it sacred as the place upon which the Disciples slept while their Master prayed. Perhaps the Stone would not be so sacred had the Disciples been vigilant ! The Tyropcean, or Cheesemongers' Valley, separates Ophel from Zion, and connects the Valleys of Hin- nom and Jehoshaphat. \ THE POOLS. The Pools of Gihon. — A short distance from the Jaffa Gate, in the Puller's Field, is the Upper Pool of Gihon. There Solomon was anointed King over Israel by Zadok and Nathan. (1 Kings i. 33, 34.) Here also Rabshakeh stood with his great army and defied the living God. (Isa. xxxvi. 2 — 13.) And here Isaiah uttered • his remarkable prophecy respecting the Supernatural Birth of Messiah. (Isa. vii. 3, 14.) There is now a Mahometan Cemetery near the Pool, and from the rising ground above it there is a com- manding view of the rich Plains of Rephaim, in which David twice defeated the Philistines. The " Lower Pool of Gihon" is opposite the South-West of Zion. (Isa. xxii. 9, 11.) POOL OF SILOxUr. 211 The Pool of Siloam, or Shiloali, whose position is indicated by Josephus, is situate at the mouth of the Tyropoean Valley, and there accordingly we find a Fountain. Jerome, who is even more precise than Josephus, speaks of its Fluctuations, — a very re- markable circumstance observed by most Travellers. The water issues from a small artificial Basin under the cliff, the entrance to which is excavated in the form of an arch, and is immediately received into a larger Reservoir, 53 feet in length by 18 in width. A flight of steps leads down to the bottom of this reservoir, which is 19 feet deep. The large recep- tacle is faced with a w^all of stone, (probably that rebuilt by Nehemiah,) now somewhat out of repair. Several columns stand out of the side w^alls, ex- tending from the top downwards to the cistern, the design of which it is difficult to conjecture. Here the Blind Man, in obedience t(j tlie direction of Christ, washed and received sight. (Jno. ix. 7, 11.) The water passes out of this reservoir through a channel cut in tlie rock, which is covered for a short dis- tance, but subsequently opens and discloses a stream, which is copious or scanty, as regulated by the ebb. and flow of the spring. But we look in vain here for the inspiration of Milton (who, however, never visited the Holy Land), wlien he penned liis famous Invocation — 212 FOUNTAIN OF THE VIRGIN. "If Sion's Ml Delight thee more, and Siloa's brook, that flowed Fast by the Oracle of God, I thence Invoke thine aid to my adventui'ous song. " To the North of this Pool is the Village of Siloam, in which was the Tower that, in the time of Christ, fell, and killed eighteen persons. (Luke xiii. 4.) The Fountain of the Vikgin. — The smaU upper basin in the Pool of Siloam is merely the termina- tion of a long narrow subterranean passage, by which the water is supplied from the Fountain of the Virgin. This has been established beyond dispute by Dr. Robinson, who, with his companion, had the hardihood to crawl through the passage. They found it 1,750 feet in length, which, owing to its windings, is several hundred feet more than the direct distance above ground. The water of Siloam and that of the Fountain of the Virgin being the same, the latter is characterised by the remarkable tidal flow of which we have spoken in relation to the former. Dr. Robinson observed the water in the Fountain of the Virgin to rise one foot in the reservoir within the space of five minutes, and in another five minutes fell back to its old level. It is not unlikely that this phenomenon, however it is to be explained, suggested the imagery of Ezekiel's River, which, in other points also, corresponds. Thus, in its Source — " Behold, the WELL OF JOAB. 213 waters issued out from under the threshold of the House, and came down from under, at the South side of the Altar." In its Course, — for issuing from the " South side of the altar," it must, by a topographical necessity, flow down the VaUey of Jehoshaphat, along the bed of the Kedron Eastward into the Desert, and thus into the Dead Sea by the Wady en Nar. In its Ejfccts — " Every thing shall live whither the river Cometh." (Ezek. xlvii.) This water now, when it passes out of the Pool of Siloam, irrigates the "King's Gardens," which are in a flourishing condition. En-Eogel, otherwise called " The Well of Joab," is fed by the only other Spring in Jerusalem beside that of the Fountain of the Virgin. It is situate at the juncture of the Mount of Olives and the Hill of E\t1 Counsel, and in ancient times marked the boundary line which divided the allotments of Judah and Benjamin. (Josh, xviii. 16.) By this Well Adonijah made a feast when he aspired to the Throne of David ; and forasmuch as he was in tliis assisted by Joab, hence possibly the name " WeU of Joab." (See 1 Kings i. 7 — 9.) En-Bogel means the " Foot- Fountain," and it is construed by the Targum into " Fuller's Fountain," because the FuUers trod clothes there. Dr. Eobinson found a depth of 50 feet of water in this WeU in the middle of April ; and in the rainy season it overflows the mouth, when there is a 214 POOL OF BETHESDA — OF BATHSHEBA. depth of 125 feet. Usually, however, the water runs off under the surface of the ground, and finds an outlet some 120 feet below the Well, whence, for sixty or seventy days in Winter, it is said to flow. The Water is of excellent quality, but not very cold. The Pool of Bethesda. — Leading to St. Stephen's Gate is a large reservoir, about 360 feet by 130, and 75 feet deep, which our Guide informed us was the Pool of Bethesda. Travellers differ respecting the identity of this Pool, but I see no reason to doubt it. The Pool of Bethesda, we know, was within the City "nigh uuto the Sheep-Market," or Gate, as the margin reads it, and St. Stephen's Gate is admitted to be where the Sheep-Gate formerly stood. Bethesda denotes " The House of Mercy," and the Well had this name probably from its healing properties. It had Five Porches or Porticos, in which the Sick waited until the " waters were troubled by an Angel," upon which the first person who stepped in was healed of his malady. (Jno. v. 1 — 7.) Tertullian says this miraculous virtue ceased after the Jews had rejected and crucified Messiah. The Pool of Bathsheba. — Within the Jaffa Gate, on the left as you enter, over against the Castle of David, is a vacant field, enclosed by a rugged stone wall, in which is a Cistern, supposed to be that in which Bathsheba bathed when she was seen by the King. (2 Sam. xi. 2.) MOSQUE OF OMAR— OF EL-AKSA. 215 THE BUILDINGS OF JEEUSALEM. The Mosque of Omar unquestionably stands upon the site of the Temple, and is partly constructed with materials of its ruins. It is an octagonal building, the lower part being composed of white marble, and the upper })art faced with glazed porcelain of va- rious colours. From the octagonal elevation rises its grand Dome with enamelled tiles wrought into pat- terns of wondrous intricacy and grace, in which all the hues of the rainbow glitter in the sunbeams like a bright and gorgeous vision of a fairy-land. Thus, "the Mountain of the House is become as the High Place of the forest," by the substitution of the Mahometan superstition for the ancient worship of Israel. (Mic. iii. 12.) It was formerly forbidden to any but a IVIussulman to enter this building. Sir Sidney Smith is reported to have presented himself at the head of his followers, and when asked to produce the firman for his admission, replied that he himself was Sultan and required no firman ! Dr. Eichardson also contrived to enter the Mosque, and gives a minute description of it in his Travels. There is, however, at present, no difficulty of obtaining admission — a fee being a suffi- cient passport. The Mosque El-Aksa, next to the Mosque of Omar, is the finest building in Jerusalem. Its graceful proportions and noble Dome crown the very 216 HAREM — CHURCH OF THE SEPULCHRE. summit of ]\Ioriah, standing, as it does, close to the South-West corner of the Harem. Oriental Chris- tians and Gallic Catholics agree in regarding this as ha\dno; been once the Church of the A'irgin. Tra- vellers, artists, and architects, generally concur in this opinion. The Harem, or Temple Enclosure, which is almost equal in extent to one-eighth of the City, and beau- tiful as it is extensive, surroimds these Mosques. The Walls are at once massive and lofty. The spaces are covered with fresh green grass, dotted with dusky olives, tapering cypresses, and other forms of vegeta- tion. Marble Fountaius also adorn the place. And there is a broad elevated Platform encircled by airy Arches, and diversified with richly-carved Pulpits, Prayer-Xiches, and gTaceful miniatm-e Cupolas. This splendid Enclosure, with its Buildings and general arrangements, is the chief ornament of the City. The Chltich of the Holy Sepulchre is composed of three Churches ; that of the Holy Sepulclire pro- perly so called ; that of Calvary ; and the Church of the Discovery of the Holy Cross. The first is built in the VaUey at the foot of Calvary, on the spot where it is believed the body of Christ was deposited. This Chm-ch is in the form of a cross, the Chapel of the Holy Sepidchre constituting, in fact, the ^^ave of the edifice. It is circular like the Pantheon at Pome, TOMB OF OUE LORD. 217 and is lighted only by a Dome, undemeatli which is the Sepulchre. Sixteen marble Colimins adorn the circumference of this Eotunda; they are connected by seventeen Arches, and support an upper Galleiy, likewise composed of sixteen Columns and seventeen Arches, of smaller dimensions than those of the lower range. Mches, corresponding with the Arches, ap- pear above the Frieze of the second Gallery, and the Dome springs from the Arch of these Mches. The latter were formerly decorated with mosaics, repre- senting the Twelve Apostles, St. Helena, the Em- peror Constantine, and three other portraits unknown. The Choir is to the East of the Nave of the Tomb ; it is double as in the ancient Cathedrals, that is to say, it has first a place with Stalls for the Priests, and beyond that a Sanctuary raised two steps above it. Eound this double Sanctuary run the Aisles of the Choir, and in these Aisles are situated the Chapels. In the Aisle on the right, behind the Choir, are two Flights of Steps, leading, the one to the Church of Calvary, the other to the Church of the Dis- covery of the Holy Cross. The first ascends to the top of Calvary, the second conducts you underneath it ; for the Cross was erected on the summit of Golgotha, and said to be found under that hill The Sepulchre, or Tomb of our Lord, is in the centre of the Eotunda, and resembles a small closet 218 THE angel's chapel. hewn out of the soUd rock. The Entrance, which faces the East, is only four feet high, and two feet and a quarter broad, so that you are obliged to stoop low when you go in. The interior of the Sepulchre is nearly square. It is six feet, wanting an inch, in length ; six feet, wanting two inches, in breadth ; and eight feet one inch from the floor to the roof. A solid Block of the same stone, which was left in excavating the other part, two feet four inches and a half high, occupies half of the Sepulchre. On this Table the body of our Lord was laid, with the head towards the West ; but, on account of the superstitious devotion of the Orientals, who imagine that if they leave their hair upon this stone, God will never forsake them, and also because pilgrims broke off pieces, it has received a covering of white marble. This now serves as an Altar for the cele- bration of Mass. Eorty-four lamps are constantly burning in this sacred place, and three holes have been made in the roof for the emission of smoke. The exterior of the Sepulchre is also faced with slabs of marble, and adorned with several colimms, having a dome above. At the entrance of the Sepulchre there is a Stone about a foot and a half square, and a foot thick, which is of the same rock, and served to support the Large Stone which closed the access. Upon this stone was seated the Angel who spake to the two Marys : STONE OF UNCTION. 219 And as well on account of this mystery, as to prevent tlie Sepulchre from being entered, the early Chris- tians erected before it a little Chapel, which is called " The Angel's Chapel." Twelve paces from the Holy Sepulchre, turning towards the Nortli, you come to a large Block of grey Marble, about four feet in diameter, placed there to mark the spot where our Lord appeared to Mary Magdalene. Here also is the " Chapel of the Ap- parition," where the Franciscans perform their devotions, and to which they retire, passing into chambers with which there is no other communi- cation. As you leaA^e the Tomb you come to the Stone of Unction, on which the l)ody of our Lord was anointed with myrrh and aloes, before it was laid in the Sepulchre. Some say this is of the same rock as Mount Calvary ; and others assert that it was brought to this place by Joseph and Nicodemus. This also is covered with white marble because of the indiscretion of Pilgrims in breaking pieces off; and it is sur- rounded with iron railings lest people should walk over it. The stone is 8 feet wanting 3 inches in length, and 2 feet less 1 inch in breadth ; and above it there used to be eight lamps kept continually burning ; but these are now replaced by six tapers standing inside the rails, each of which is nearly as large as a human body. 220 CHAPEL OF THE TRUE CROSS. In another place there is a Stone which, we are solemnly assured, was that rolled away from the door of the Sepulchre. In another there is a Pillar affirmed to be that to which Jesus was bound when scourged. They like^vdse shew the Hole into which the Saviour's feet were placed during that part of His humiliation; the Prison into which He was thrust when brought from the House of Caiaphas; the Place in which the Crown of Thorns was put upon His head ; and that where the soldiers parted His garments. Before these Eelics, imaginary or real, Pilgrims in scores bow down ; and they kiss them with ecstasy. The Chapel of Helena. — Descending a few steps we reach the Chapel of Helena, mother of Constantine the first Christian Emperor, built over the Place, where, during that lady's visit to Palestine, the " True Cross " was discovered. That a Cross was found there, is not doubted ; but it is not clear that the Priests had not first buried it, and then, in Helena's presence, dug it up. They had a strong inducement to perpetrate this "pious fraud" as slie had promised to build a Church upon whatever spot the Cross upon which the Eedeemer suffered, might be dis- covered. They have likewise found the Manger in wliich the Infant Jesus was laid ; the Table upon which the Last Supper was celebrated, with a variety of things BIBLICAL ESTIMATE OF HOLY PLACES. 221 beside by •whicli they wrought miracles upon the credulity of that Lady. Ascending from the Chapel, a Hole in the rock is shewn, in which they say the Cross was fixed ; and about a yard and a half distant is a Eent in the Eock, which extends downwards out of sight, but may be examined in the Vault below. Certainly this was not artificially produced, for the sides fit like tallies, and yet run in such intricate windings as art could not counterfeit ; and there is no reason why the tradition, that it was caused by the Earthquake which happened at our Lord's pas- sion, should not be believed. But God in His infinite wisdom has concealed the exact spot as He concealed the body of Moses. No one will deny that the Apostles and Disciples of our Lord who dwelt at Jerusalem, knew the place of their Master's cru- cifixion, and the Sepulchre of His burial ; but there is no evidence in the New Testament that these Places were in any way honoured. On the contrary, the whole spirit of the Gospel of Christ tended to withdraw men from an attachment to Times, Places, and Physical Objects, and to lead them to a Spiritual Worship. The theme of Paid's preaching was the Death and Eesurrection of our Lord ; but though he laboured and wrote for some five and thirty years after these events, and though he visited Jeru- salem more than once during that time, he makes no 222 IMPORTANCE OF SPIRITUAL TRUTHS. allusion to the Scenes or Instruments of the Saviour's passion. It is pretty clearly established that the Apostle John wrote his Gospel towards the close of the First Century, or from sixty to seventy years after the Crucifixion, yet he oidy alludes to the Sepulchre in general terms. It is thus sufficiently apparent that in the Apostolic Age, no importance was at- tached, no honour given, to Holy Places. "Whether the Eedeemer died here or was buried there are things of secondary consequence ; the grand question is Did He suffer death and rise again FOR I\IE ? ' ' Alas ! and did my Saviour bleed ? And did my Saviour die ? Would He devote that sacred head For such a worm as I ? *'Was it for crimes that I had done He groaned upon the tree ? Amazing pity ! grace unknown ! And love beyond degree. " Well might the sun in darkness hide, And shut his glory in, When God the mighty Maker died For man, His creatures' sin. "Thus might I hide my blushing face. While His dear Cross appears ; Dissolve my heart in thankfulness, And molt my eyes in tears." The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is now occu- pied by Latin, Greek, Armenian, Coptic, Abyssinian, COXVENT OF ST. JAMES. 223 and other Cliristiau Sects, who hate each other with a perfect aversion ; and is the common centre of de- votion, imposture, and superstition. The Convent of St. James (St Giacomo), be- longing to the Armenians, stands ou that part of Mount Zion which is still within the Walls. It is of vast circumference, and is esteemed the most wealthy in the Levant. We are assured that it stands upon the spot where James was martyred, and the Ashes of the Apostle are amongst the various curiosities it con- tains. The Walls are pannelled with porcelain ; and one of the Side Chapels has two doors covered with Mother-of-Pearl. It is a prevailing custom to adorn the Walls of Churches with white and blue China Plates, which are far from prepossessing ; but the ap- pearance of the Mother-of-Pearl inlays on a dark ground, is effective. Dozens of Ostrich-eggs are sus- pended from various parts of this building ; and there are many Paintings upon the Walls. I was domiciled with a young gentleman from Lon- don, the son of a widow, and of a Protestant family, who had earned a Fellowship worth £200 a year, but, to the great grief of his friends, sacrificed all in order to embrace the faith of Rome. This young gentleman was with me in the Armenian Church, and, \\'ishing to engage him in argument, I pointed to a remarkable work of art, and asked — " Who do those figures in that picture represent ? " 224 DIALOGUE WITH A PERVERT. " Our Lord and our Lady," was the response. " Why do you give the Mother a title equal to that of her Divine Son ? " " It is the Lord Himself who does that ! " " When and where ? " " On the Cross, when He said, ' Woman, behold thy Son' — then referring to the Virgin and St. John. The term for ' woman ' in the original signifies ' Lady, or Queen ' — the Queen of Heaven." "You must know better. It signifies nothing of the kind. Did He not give the same title to the wo- man taken in adultery ? — ' Woman, where are thine accusers ? ' Wliy, then, do you not Crown the latter as well as the former, and place them side by side upon the Throne of Heaven ? " To this he made no reply, so I proceeded : — " Do you never reflect that the Saviour constantly addresses the Virgin by this term ' Woman,' as He would address any ordinary female, and that she is but seldom mentioned either by Him or His Apostles ; as if to protest against the idolatry of which you and many others are guilty ? " Unable to release himself by fair reasoning, he fell back upon the old refuge, " No Scripture is of private interpretation," and "We must hclieve the Church!" The Tower of David now forms a portion of a Castle, upon whose ramparts there are a few rusty guns. TOWER OF DAVID — CCENACULUM. 225 It has its name probably from the fact that David built a Tower here, upon the Site of which Herod erected the present Structure. It is hence also de- nominated the Tower of Hippicus. The name of David may have been associated with it because of its position on the Stronghold of Zion, which that Monarch took from the Jebusites. (2 Sam. v. 7.) For some are of opinion that the predecessor of the present structure was a Tower built by Solomon. The Ccenaculum. — On the brow of the hill now called Mount Zion, a conspicuous minaret marks the Mosque of the Tomb of David. Within the precincts of that Mosque is a vaulted Gothic chamber, with which are associated a greater confluence of traditions than with any other place of like dimensions in Palestine. It is startling to hear that this is the Scene of the Last Supper, of the Meeting after the Eesur- rection, of the Miracle of Pentecost, of the Eesidence and Death of the Virgin, and of the Burial of Stephen. Upon this Stanley remarks, " If one might hazard a conjecture respecting the cause of such a concentration of traditions, some of them dating as far back as the fourth century, it would be this : — We know from Cyril and Epiphanius that a building existed on this spot claiming to l^e the only edifice which had survived the overthrow of the City by Titus. This building of unknown origin would naturally serve as an appropriate receptacle for all recollections 226 STEEETS — THEIK DESOLATE AIR. which could not otherwise be attached to any fixed locality." THE STREETS OF THE CITY. The Streets of Jerusalem are mostly narrow, and the paving-stones uneven, hard as marble, and when rain falls, the paths are as if composed of bits of soap, so that a person walking is obliged to be careful as though he moved on ice. In the Jewish Quarter, which Hes on the East of Zion, the lanes are particularly filthy and miserable — everywhere the Jews seem to bear the brand of the curse. Indeed that unfortimate people are the Low Irish of the mde-world. Though in the principal Bazaars there was activity, there seemed an air of deathliness over everything — no hilarity or vivacity, so that the words of the Prophet came to me with peculiar force. — "Then "s\dll I cause to cease from the Cities of Judah, and from the Streets of Jerusalem, the voice of mirtli and the voice of gladness." (Jer. vii. 34.) Neither in Jerusalem, nor yet elsewhere in Palestine, have I seen or heard of a Carriage ; in fact there are no roads upon which carriages could travel. The Houses are stone, irregularly built, and having cupolas upon the roofs — sometimes three or four upon a single resi- dence. These invest the City with a picturesque ap- pearance, at the same time that they serve to break the force of the Elements which are violent in the TIA DOLOROSO — PLACE OF WAILING. 227 Rainy Season. The flat roofs are weak, owing to a scarcity of timber, so these cupolas are thrown np from them. The rain-water which is collected from the roofs runs into deep chambers cut in the lime- stone rock, somewhat after the fasliion of the reser- voirs at Malta, and upon this supply the people mainly depend. The Via Doloroso. — In returning from Geth- semane, at the corner of the Temple Enclosure, is a building, said to be erected on the site of Pilate's House, from which the Eedeemer was led to Cruci- fixion. The Street leading from this place to Mount Calvary is called Via Doloroso, or, " Dolorous Way." It first rises gradually, but afterwards becomes much steeper, and runs through the City in a zigzag course. Near Pilate's House the lane is spanned by an ancient Arch, which is called " Ucce Homo," as from a window over this archway, the Priests say, Pilate exclaimed, " Behold the Man ! " Another station is pointed out in which place Jesus sank under the weight of His Cross, whereupon it was transferred to the shoulders of Simon. In aU there are Mght Stations in this Way, with each of which some legend is associated. The Place of Wailing. — There is a small paved area between tiie low houses on the South-East of the Harem and the ancient Temple Wall. Here the Jews have for centuries been permitted to approach the precincts of the House of the Lord in which 228 LEPERS. their ancestors worshipped. The remains of the Wall is in a fine state of presentation, though in some places it is much worn by the Kisses and Tears of many generations. A touching scene presents itself to the eye of a Stranger every Friday, when Jews of both sexes and of all ages, from all quarters of the Globe, raise a lamentation in melancholy concert over the desolations of their dishonoured Sanctuary. Old men may be seem tottering up to the massive stones, kissing them with fond rapture ; burying their faces in the joints and cavities, while tears stream down their cheeks, and accents of deep sorrow burst from their trembling lips. Most feelingly do they repeat the pathetic words of the Psalmist : " God, the Heathen are come into Thine Inheritance ; Thy Holy Temple have they defiled ; they have laid Jerusalem on heaps. We are become a reproach to our neigh- bours, a scorn and a derision to them that are round about us. How long. Lord ? Wilt Thou be angry for ever ? Shall Thy jealousy burn like fire ? '* (Psa. Ixxix. 1, 4, 5.) Lepers. — It is generally believed that Lepers are excluded from the City ; but they reside together in a few mud hovels just within the Zion Gate. They are, however, strictly confined to their own district. Those I saw, and I met many, were most deplorable objects — ^half-starved, wasted, and often deformed by disease. They have no means of subsistence but POPULATION". 229 begging ; and hence their cravings are irresistible. They marry amongst themselves, and their children, at from ten to fourteen, begin to shew symptoms of the plague. Lepers suffer little pain; but they are said to die by inches, though sometimes they attain the ages of 45 and 50 years. Our Guide conducted us to a Chapel belonging to the Syrian Christians, said to occupy the site of the House of Mary, the mother of ]\Iark. We were also shewn the House of Thomas ; the House of Annas, the High Priest ; the Prison of Peter — a Cave in the Rock ; the House of Simon the Pharisee ; the House of John, in which he and the Virgin resided after the Crucifixion, and many other places of Legendary interest. Population. — The Population of Jerusalem has been variously estimated ; there being no authentic census ; but the following numbers may be accepted as an approximation : — Jews 6,400 Muslems 4,300 Greeks . 2,000 Latins . 1,100 Armenians 320 Protestants . 300 Greek Catholics 300 Syrians, Copts, and Abys siniai as 280 15,000 230 TOMBS — OF DAVID — ZACHAKIAS, ETC. THE TOMBS. The Tomb of David. — There is notliing more liis- torically certain than that David and most of his successors upon the Throne of Israel were buried in Zion. Peter further states that the Sepulchre of that Monarch was identified in his days. (Acts ii. 29.) It is, therefore, not impossible that the place still shewn as the Tomb of David may be correctly in- dicated, particularly as Christians, Jews, and Mus- sulmans agree upon the point. The Mosque called the " Coenacidum " is built over it, and it is strictly guarded by the Turks, so that we were not able to enter. A few years since, however, Sir Moses Montefiore, a wealthy Israelite, and Mr. Nicholay- son, obtained admission by misparingly bribing the Guard. The Tomb of Zachaeias. — This Monument is said to have been constructed in honour of Zachariah, who was stoned in the Court of the Temple, in the reign of Joash, (2 Chron. xxiv. 21.) Our Lord speaks of the same Zacharias as having been slain " between the Temple and the Altar." (Matt.xxui.SS.) The Tomb of St. James Lies a few paces North of that of Zacharias. Tradition says that the Apostle sought refuge here during the interval be- tween the Crucifixion and Kesurrection of our Lord. The Tomb of Absolom. — In the full belief that Absolom is buried in this Tomb, wliich lies in the Valley of Jehoshaphat, the Jews in passing cast stones TOMB OF JEHOSHAPHAT, ETC. 231 upon it. This is to express their indignation against him for his unnatural rebellion against David. But did they reflect upon the words of our Lord, they might spare themselves this trouble, "He that is mthout sin among you let him first cast a stone." (John viii. 7.) The Tomb of Jehoshaphat is in the North-East angle of the excavated area round the Pillar of Ab- solom. Owing to the accumulation of rubbish, the pediment alone is visible. But Jehoshaphat "was buried with his fathers in the City of David " (1 Kings xxii. 50), from which place it is by no means probable that his remains should have been removed. Tombs of the Prophets. — Ascending the terraced side of Olivet for about a quarter of a mile in a South-East direction, we reach the " Tombs of the Prophets." They are situated between the foot path and the main road to Bethany. Their plan and style differ from aU other tombs yet known in the \dcinity of Jerusalem. They have no traces of in- scriptions, sarcophagi, or remains of any kind, tending to throw the least ray of light upon their history or an- tiquity. Christ reminded the Pharisees that they "Built the Tombs of the Prophets" (Matt, xxiii. 29); but these relics are excavations. The Tombs of the Kings. — Travellers are gene- rally agreed that this name is fictitious, and that the 232 TOMBS OF THE JUDGES, ETC. Sepulchres, or rather Sepulchre, was the Tomb of Helena ; but what authority they have for the latter assumption does not appear. Tombs of the Judges. — These are at the head of the Valley of Jehoshaphat. The Judges were not all buried in this region, for Jeptha, Ibzan, Elon, Samson, and others, were certainly buried elsewhere. It is questionable whether a single individual of that ancient line of worthies found his last resting place here. Fully to examine these tombs, it is necessary to be provided with candles or torches. The Gkotto of Jeeemiah is situated on the Southern side of the rocky hill, a short distance to the jN"orth-East of the Damascus Gate. It is a huge rude Cave, and has the appearance of an old quarry. The Tomb of the Virgin is not mentioned by Jerome amongst the Sacred Places visited by Paula ; and, if the authority of Convocations is to be respected, it ought not to be found at Jerusalem, but at Ephesus, where it was placed by the Third General Council. The Legend which connects the burial with this place, though of later origin than the Decree, has had more respect. The Tomb of the Virgin, then, is situate at the foot of the Mount of Olives oppo- site the Garden of Gethsemane, and is covered by a Greek building, called " The Chapel of the Tomb of the Virgin." The Tomb of St. Stephen. — We have seen under PROTESTANT MISSION. 233 the head of Tlie Ccenacuhcm, that amongst the many wonderful things shewn there, is a "Tomb of St. Stephen." But there is another "Tomb of St. Stephen" shewn to all who wish to believe it, outside St. Ste- phen's Gate. This Gate also has its name from the tradition that it was here the protomartyr was stoned. The precise spot on which he suffered is accordingly shewn, and that upon which Saul of Tarsus stood when he held the clothes of the young men. THE PROTESTANT MISSION. A brief account of the rise and progress of the Protestant Mission at Jerusalem may not be out of place here. In 1814, an agreement was signed by the English and Prussian Governments to establish a Bishopric of the Anglical Church at Jerusalem, with a Diocese embracing Mesopotamia, Chaldea, Syria, Palestine, Egypt, and Abyssinia. It was stipulated that the Bishop should be alternately nominated by the Crowns of England and Prussia — the Archbishop of Canter- bury having a Veto upon the nomination of the latter. It was agreed that special care should be taken not to disturb or divide the Churches already represented at Jerusalem, and that all Lutheran con- gregations should be supervised by a Clergyman ordained by the Bishop, and under his jurisdiction. 234 BISHOP ALEXAIfDER. The King of Prussia gave the large sum of £15,000, the annual interest of which, £600, together with £600 raised in England, was to constitute the Epis- copal revenue. In pursuance of these arrangements, IMichael Solo- mon Alexander, a Jewish Proselyte, was consecrated first Bishop of the United Church of England, Ire- land, and Jerusalem, in the Autumn of 18-41. In 1 842, he laid the foundation of a neat Gothic Church, which now stands near to the Tower of David, on Mount Zion. While this edifice was in progress, in January, 1843, the Turkish authorities interfered, and would only consent to its completion upon con- dition that it should be attached to, and dependent upon, the Consulate. Such was the gratitude of the Sultan, who, but two years before, was indebted to the British arms for his possession of S}Tia. The Church is accordingly considered as an appendage of the Consulate. Bishop Alexander died in 1845, and was suc- ceeded by a Prussian I^ominee, the present Prelate, Samuel Gobat, who was formerly a Missionary in Abyssinia. The Services of this Church are as follow : — On Sunday there is, first at 7 A.M., a Service in Judseo- Spanish. At 10 A.M., another in English. And at 3 in the afternoon there is a Service in German, which alternates with that of the Luthern Church. HOSPITAL — SCHOOLS, ETC. 235 On Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, at 6 p.m., the Service of the Church of England is read in Hebrew. There are also two public Prayer-Meetings held weekly in the adjoining School-Eoom, in which, during my sojourn, I had the privilege and happiness to take a part. In connection with the Mission, there is an Hospital for Jews, containing thirty -six beds, under the man- agement of a House-Steward and a Matron, together with two Surgeons — a Dispenser and an Assistant. This Institution has been of incalculable benefit to the poor suffering Israelites. There is also a Diocesan School, which was founded by Bishop Alexander, in 1845, and is supported partly by the London Jews' Society, and partly by private subscriptions. The Boys' School is on that part of Zion now outside the "Walls, in a building lately erected. Here are from twenty to thirty boarders, and a number of day-scholars. There are under the Head Master, an Assistant English Master, and an Arab Teacher. The Girls' School is within the Walls, and contains a good number of day-scholars. There is likewise a House of Industry for Converts and Inquirers. Further, there is a School of Industry for Jewesses, under the management of Miss Cooper, which appears t o be an excellent Institution. And there is a Prussian Hospital and Girls' School under the charge of four 236 USE AND ABUSE OF HOLY PLACES. Deaconesses, beside the Hospice for Travellers, of whicli we were so happy as to avail ourselves. The number of Protestants in Jerusalem presided over by Bishop G-obat, who is a truly good man, is about 300. He is assisted by three Clergymen, Missionaries of the " Jews' Society," two Eepresenta- tives of the " Church of England Missionary Society," and a Prussian Chaplain. During my sojourn in Jerusalem, I repeatedly visited the Memorials of events the most intensely interesting to humanity which the universe presents, not to idolize, thank God, as many do, alas, but to admire and reflect with gratitude upon the Events. Pilgrims too commonly worship the " Holy Places" and " seek the living among the dead ;" but in the final Conflagration these Eelics are destined to be con- sumed, as of no intrinsic worth. Salvation is by Faith. Here " we see through a glass darkly." Even from the sacred enclosure of Gethsemane, or from the brow of Calvary, the spiritual vision is obscure. But once within the glorious walls of the New Jerusalem, I shall see " the King in His beauty " — I shall " see Him as He is " — " I'll view the Lamb in His own light, Whom angels dimly see ; And gaze transported at the sight To all eternity." CHAPTER VII. PALESTINE— CONTINUED. As in the Desert of Arabia, so in travelling through the interior of Palestine, it is necessary to have a \vritten agreement with the Dragoman, signed and sealed by the Consul. The following is a copy of the document drawn between us and our worthy Guide : — "Agreement between John BrocHeban/c and John E. Plmnmer and Hanna Habesh. "Hanna Habesh undertakes to conduct John Brocklebank and John E. Plummer to Jericho, the Jordan, the Dead Sea, Hebron, Bethlehem, and back to Jenisalem.— Then to Samaria, Mazareth, Mount Tabor, Tiberias, and on to Mount Carmel, the Journey ex- tending over eleven days, said Hanna Habesh paying all expenses, including Horses to ride upon, a Tent, with Sheildi, Cook, Board and Lodging, Bucksheesh, &c. In consideration of which, John Brocklebank and John E. Plummer engage to pay the sum of £33, one half at the time of starting, and the remainder on reaching Carmel. \^SI^ "JOHN BROCKLEBANK, "JOHN E. PLUMMER." ^ " Signed by the respective Parties in my presence, in Her Britannic Majesty's Consulate of Jerusalem.— This 26th day of February, 1863. "JAMES FINN, "H. B. M. Consul." ' 238 ROADS FROM JERUSALEM TO BETHANY. JEEUSALEM TO JEEICHO. In the journey from Jerusalem to Jericho, an Escort is still necessary, lest the Traveller should " fall among Thieves/' and need the services of some " Good Samaritan." Accordingly, in addition to our Dragoman, Cook, Waiter, Muleteers, and other travel- ling attendants, the Consul sent with, us a Sheikh, mounted upon a splendid Arab Mare, and two Armed Men under his command. EoADS TO Bethany. — From Jerusalem to Bethany there are three Eoads. The first takes a long circuit over the Northern Shoulder of the Mount of Olives, and down the Valley which parts it from Scopus. The second is a steep Footpath over the summit. The third winds roimd the base of the moimtaiii by the Southern shoulder, and is the continuation of the Eoad from Jericho. Our Dragoman recommended vis to issue by the first, and return by the last, that we might go out with David in his flight from Absolom, and return with the Saviour in his Triimiphal Entry. Accordingly, we passed over the Brook Kedron, by Gethsemane, up the hill, and by the little Village of Tur. The face of the hill is horizontally streaked with green and grey, viz., by the terraces of corn and ledges of limestone rock supporting them ; and the whole is dotted with trim-looking olives, the suc- cessors of those from which the Moimt derives its name. BETHANY — HOME OF LAZAEUS. 239 Bethany. — About three quarters of a mile from the Village of Tur, on the Eastern slope of Olivet, is a Hamlet, containing about twenty Mahometan fami- lies, called El Azarieth. This rests upon the site of the ancient Bethany, a place which has derived im- mortal interest from the fact that Jesus found a Home there during His visits to Jerusalem. For what Capernaum was to Him in Galilee, Bethany was in Judea. Hither He retired in the quiet evening after His arduous, though unappreciated, toil in the City, and found in the Family of Lazarus a congenial retreat — a fact expressing the highest commendation of that worthy person and his sisters. The place is beauti- fully situated on the slope of the Mount, surrounded by rocky gromid once carefully terraced, and still con- taining a few Orchards of fig-trees. In the days of its glory the foliage of this neighbourhood must have been profuse. In the time of Ezra they " went fortli unto the Mount, to fetch for the Feast of Tabernacles, Olive-branches and Pine-branches and Myrtle- branches, and Palm-branches, and branches of Thick- trees." (Neh. viii. 1 5.) Myrtle-trees also flourished in the same region. (Zech. i. 8 — 11.) From the profu- sion of its Palms it had its name, which signifies, "The House of Dates." There can be no difficulty therefore in determining whence the crowd obtained the Branches of Palm-trees " with which they went forth to meet Jesus, when "they cried, Hosanna, 240 CASTLE OF LAZAEUS — TOMB. Blessed is the King of Israel that cometh in the name of the Lord." (Jno. xii. 3.) Tlie House of Martha and Mary. — The Guide pointed out a Euin not unlike the Castle at Scarbro', but considerably smaller, which he said was the "Castle of Lazarus." Whether this is indeed the remains of the Mansion in which Jesus was enter- tained it would be as difficult to prove. One can have little faith in stones and mortar professing an anti- quity of two thousand years. The Tomh of Lazarus. — At the bottom of a descent, not far from the " Castle," is shewai the " Sepulchre of Lazarus." It is a deep Vault, partly excavated in the rock, and partly lined with masonry. The en- trance is low, and opens into a long winding series of steps, now in a dilapidated condition. Below is a small Chamber, out of which, by the descent of a few steps more, we are conducted to a Vault, in which the Body of Lazarus is supposed to have lain. It is not improbable that this is the identical Tomb. On the further side of a deep Valley, away among the blue mountains, Jesus abode when the sisters sent to inform Him that Lazarus was sick. Along that dreary descent they looked with anxious ex- pectation of His coming. On the old road outside the Village, Martha met Him, with the despairing, almost reproachful words, " Lord, if Thou hadst been here, my brother had not died." HOUSE OF SIMON — BETHPHAGE, ETC. 241 Tlie House of Simon the Lepei% in ■which the grateful Mary anointed the feet of Jesus with precious ointment, and wiped them with the hair of her head, is pointed out for the edification of the credulous. Bethphage. — I inquired for the site of Bethphage ; but no trace of it appears to have been discovered. A certain writer suggests that the way in which the names of "Bethany" and "Bethphage" are associated in the Evangelical Narrative, renders it probable that they designated different Quarters of the same Town. Thus the latter was called by a name signifying "The House of Figs," from the abundance of the Figs in the Orchards at that end, as the former had its name from its proximity to the Groves of Pabns. (Com. Mark xi. 1 ; Luke xix. 29.) The Scene of cue Lord's Ascension certainlyivas not on the broad top of Olivet, in sight of Jerusalem, where Helena has built her Church to commemorate the event. It was in the vicinity of Bethany. Luke distinctly says, " He led His disciples out as far as Bethany, and was parted from them and carried up into heaven," after which, " they returned to Jerusa- lem." (Luke xxiv. 50 — 52.) They returned probably by the direct road over the summit, which fact may have suggested the idea that the Ascension took place there. (Acts i. 12.) The Fountain of the Apostles. — On leaving R 242 EN SHEMESH — WAY-SIDE INN. Bethany, we cross a rocky ridge, and dive into a bleak glen, at the bottom of which is a fountain, called Ain el Haud. This was probably the JEn-Shemesh mentioned by Joshua, (Jos. xv. 7,) for the Valley is called by that name. The Spring is now styled " The Fountain of the Apostles," through a tradition that Christ and His Apostles often retired there to drink. As our " Guard " had not yet joined us, we dis- mounted here to wait, not feeling very comfortable in so lonely a situation. But the Sheikh, with his men, soon came up, the former flourishing his old matlock with all the consequence of a Field Marshal. Confi- dent in the protection of so redoubtable a personage, the cavalcade moved on. The Way-Side Inn. — Passing down the glen, the road winds for an hour or more, and then leaving it to the right, opens into a broken country, and reaches an extensive ruined Khan, or Caravansary. This is supposed to be the wreck of the " Way-side Inn " alluded to in our Lord's parable of the Good Samaritan. (Luke x. 30—37.) In 1820, Sir F. Henniker was assaulted, stripped, wounded, and left for dead at this very place. Here we halted to take our luncheon ; but our Arab Sheikh refused to eat, as it was then Bamadan, or the Ninth Month in the Mahometan year, during which aU good Muslems so strictly fast, as not even to taste a drop of water from WILDERNESS OF TEMPTATION — MANIACS. 243 sunrise to sunset. They also refrain from smoking their pipes, which is to them, perhaps, a still greater self-denial. The Wilderness of Temptation. — On leaving the Khan, we enter a region even wilder than that through which we had just passed, supposed to have been the Wilderness into which Christ was " driven by the Spirit to be tempted of the devil." (Mark i. 12, 13.) All here is death-like desolation. Lime- stone mountains rise one above another without the slightest sjonptom of vegetation. Towering cliffs, overhanging crags, and yawning ravines, fill the mind with sentiments of awe. Often we were upon ledges so narrow, steej), and rugged, that a single slip of the horses' feet to the extent of a few inches would be sufficient to have dashed us headlong into a gaping chasm. Such roads could never be passed in safety by an English-trained horse ; but former experience of the character of our animals relieved us from alarm. An ever watchful Providence protected us. Maniacs wander in these wild passes, who are sometimes so " exceeding fierce that no man can pass " them. (Matt. viii. 28.) But such is the mad- ness of superstition, that these poor creatures are regarded as Saints, and, therefore, permitted to be at large. It is an interesting fact that there should stiU exist in these desolate regions representatives of those 244 VALLEY OF ACHOE — PLAIX OF JEEICHO. Lunatics so notorious in the history of the sojourn of Christ. The Wady el Kelt. — At length we came to the brink of one of the sublimest ra\dnes in the Holy Land — a glen from four to five hundred feet deep between perpendicular walls of rock, through whose sides springs issue and flow into the dell. The sides of these steep cliffs are pierced with grottos, appa- rently inaccessible except to the eagles, which are seen hovering round them. Yet history declares that these were once the abodes of Hermits. The Brook in this Wady is supposed to have been the " Cherith " where Elijah was " fed by the ravens " when famine desolated the land of Israel. (1 Kings xvii. 1 — 7.) The Wady itself is unquestionably the Valley of Achor, stated to have been on the Northern border of Judah, in which Achan was stoned. (Jos. vii.) The Plain of Jekicho. — As we proceed, the Great Plain suddenly opens, the green banks of the Jordan sloping into a kind of fissure, and the waters of the Dead Sea gleaming in the sunshine from the bosom of a cliff-bound coast, away on the right. Travel- ling through the Wilderness of Judea, the heat is intensified by the reflection of the solar rays from the limestone cliffs and soil; but on entering the Plain, the air seems like the blast of a furnace. We KIHAH — HOUSE OF ZACCH^US. 245 were painfully reminded that we were now^ 1,300 feet below the level of the Sea. The descent into the Plain is rapid and rough, and in some places would be dangerous but for stone fences thrown up on the brows of the cliffs. JEEICHO. After crossing many foundations of buildings, fording streams, passing two aqueducts mth pointed arches, and lea\ing the mountains at a distance of about two miles and a half, we pitched our tents at Bihah, a Village said to mark the site of the ancient Jericho. We ascended a Tower dignified by the name of the "House of Zaccheeus," from the summit of which we had a full view of a place indescribably wretched. The cottages are roofed simply with branches and dried leaves, which serve to exclude sunshine, but afford no pro- tection against a heavy shower. The hovels have no windows, the only aperture being a hole, about the size of the entrance to a moderate pig-sty, while the little yards outside are dens of filth and fleas. The population is entirely IMahometan, and is go- verned by a Sheikh. Their habits are those of Bedaween^ and plunder is their chief and most gainful occupation. In the evening a niunber of them turned out to dance before our tent, and assumed such an air and attitude of wildness as one would 246 JERICHO OF THE CAN.VANITES — OF HIEL. expect to see amongst the savages of the South Pacific. The Jericho of the Canaanites is by Moses spoken of as the " City of Pahn Trees ; " and in our Lord's time the Pahn-Grove of this region was seven miles long and nearly three broad. Tliis, together with its famous Gardens of Balsamum, were given by Anthony to Cleopatra, for whom they were farmed by Herod the Great. This monarch also made the place one of his princely residences. The solitary relic of that Palm-Forest, seen as recently as 1838, has now disappeared. But such is the richness of the soil, and such the warmth of the climate, this dis- trict being about 1,500 or 2,000 feet below the moun- tains, that cotton, indigo, sugar, tobacco, everything in short which grows in Egypt, would flourish here. The City anciently seated in the midst of this fertile region, was the first taken by the Israelites after passing the Jordan. But Joshua demolished it, and then pronounced the following malediction : — " Cursed be the man before the Lord that riseth up and buildeth this city Jericho : he shall lay the foundation thereof in his firstborn, and in his youngest son shall he set up the gates of it." (Jos. vi. 26.) The Jericho of Hiel. — The prediction of Joshua was literally accomplished 534 years after. In the days of Ahab " Hiel the Bethelite did build Jericho ; and he laid the foundation thereof in Abiram, his MODERN JERICHO. 247 firstborn, and set up the gates thereof in his youngest son Segub, according to the word of the Lord, which He spake by Joshua the son of N"un." (1 Kings xvi. 34.) This is tlie city mentioned in the Gospel liistory in connection with the ministry of our Lord ; but it rested probably upon a different site from that upon which the village of Eihah stands. l\Ir. Buck- ingham has shewn out of Josephus that Jericho was a hundred and fifty furlongs (about nineteen miles) from Jerusalem, and sixty furlongs (seven miles and a half) from Jordan. But Eihah is full twenty -three miles from Jerusalem, and not more than three from the Jordan. The same intelligent traveller found a large square area, enclosed by regular mounds, uni- form in height, breadth, and angle of slope, about four miles higher up the Valley, at least seven miles from the Jordan, which corresponds with the descrip- tion of the Jewish historian. Upon that place, therefore, he has fixed as the site of the City of Hiel, in which conclusion he was confirmed by foundations of walls in detached pieces, portions of ruined buildings, several large ticnudi, shafts of columns, and a capital of the Corinthian order, lying promiscuously about. The Modern Jericho. — Eusebius says that the city built by Hiel was destroyed by the Eomans during the Siege of Jerusalem ; and that standing in his time was a third, erected subsequently to the 248 QUAEANTANIA — FOUNTAIN OF ELISHA. Jewish war, and occupying a position diiBferent from either of its predecessors, for he states that the Ruins of the two former were then still shewn. It is probable that the Village of Eihah stands upon the site of this last city ; and, therefore, there is some propriety in the statement of the Guides, viz., that it marks the place where Jericho stood. THE QUAEANTANIA. Behind the " City of Pahns " is the mountain range, to one of whose peaks the Spies fled, and con- cealed themselves from the vigilance of their pursuers, probably in one of the caverns with wliich its sides are perforated. (Jos. ii. 16, 22.) In later years these caves have afforded shelter to Hermits, who took up their abode there under the belief that it was the mountain of the " Forty Days of the Temptation " — the " Quarantania," from which it still derives its name. (Luke iv. 5.) The Fountain of Elisha flows at the base of the Quarantania, and contributes nourishment to the rich vegetation of the plain which opens so gratefully upon the vision. This remarkable Spring has its name from the belief that it was the same whose waters were healed by Elisha in connection with the casting in of salt. (2 Kings ii. 21.) Josephus says these waters "afford a sweeter nourishment than any others ;" and they are certainly excellent. THE JORDAN — OVERFLOWING OF ITS BANKS. 249 JOED AN" AND THE DEAD SEA. The Jordan. — Leaving the meadows of the Plain of Jericho, and crossing the sandy Desert, which, by cultivation, might be speedily transformed into a " fruitful field," as there is an abundance of water, in about an hour, we came to the principal river of Palestine. Though narrow, it is a noble stream. It rises in the mountains of Anti-Lebanon, about twelve miles North of Cesaraja-Philippi, passes through the Lake of Gennesareth, and after a course of 160 miles, empties itself into the Dead Sea, at the rate of about seven millions of tons per day. The Jor- dan has an upper and a lower Bank, the latter of which is subject to inundation about the time of the harvest, after the latter rains. In this limited sense we are to understand the Biblical expression that the " Jordan overflowed its banks." (Jos. iii. 1 5 ; iv. 18 ; 1 Chro. xii. 15.) The water is turbid, but sweet and good. The Banks are lined with willows, tamarisks, oleanders, and other trees, and green bushes fill the spaces so as to form a jungle. Here wild boars, leopards and Bedaween robbers, har- bour ; and o\ir Sheikh accordingly warned us to keep very near to him. The part of the stream upon which we descended is supposed to be the place where Jesus was bap- tized. It is also believed to have been the place at which the Israelites crossed when the waters were 250 PILGRIMS AT THE JORDAN". driven back and stood on a heap. Perhaps here, likewise, Elijah divided the stream, and passed over to the bank from whicli he stepped into the Chariot of Fire, and rode into Heaven npon the wheels of a whirlwind. Here, therefore, Pilgrims who visit Jerusalem at Easter, come in a body to bathe, and rush in promiscuously, men and women. Upon these occasions many are carried away by the force of the current and drowned. The river was not flushed when I visited it, nevertheless the cun-ent was then very great. The Pilgrims generally bring with them white bathing dresses, using the same from year to year, and finally serve as their winding sheets. The stream at this point is from 80 to 100 feet across, and the depth from 10 to V2 feet; higher up, in some places, it is fidl 150 feet broad. The Mountains of Moab and Ainmon, vnth Pisgah, upon which Moses stood to -view the Land of Promise, and Peor, on wliich Balaam was solicited by the King of Moab to curse the people of God, stretch away in the distance beyond. The Dead Sea. — To gain the Dead Sea by following the course of the Jordan would be circuitous, so we passed over sands and sand-banks through a country totally destitute of verdure, and in about an hour and a half reached the Mysterious Lake. It is per- haps the most remarkable sheet of water in the world. Its length is forty miles ; its greatest breadth DEAD SEA — V.VLE OF SIDDIM. 251 is eight and a half, and it gradually narrows to about five miles at the' Northern extremity. Its waters are very nauseous, as they hold in solution vast quantities of muriate of lime, magnesia, and soda. These ele- ments so increase the specific gravity of the waters, that it is impossible to sink in them. Mr. Plummer tested this. Upon coming out his body was covered with a white precipitate of salt. The water itself, how- ever, is clear as crystal. Fish are never foimd alive in this Lake ; but they are often seen dead near the mouth of the Jordan, by whose current they had been forced into this uncongenial element. The state- ments £ire unfounded that animals cannot live upon the borders of this Lake, and that birds fiying over it will fall dead into its waters. We observed many birds flying over it and about its banks without ap- pearing to suffer the slightest injury. There is no outlet from the Dead Sea, so that the quantity of Avater evaporated from its surface must be equal to that received from the Jordan, the Arnon, and other streams that fall into it. The Soil of the Vale of Siddim, which is now covered with the Dead Sea, or Lake Asphaltites, as, on account of the vast quantities of bitimien with which its water are impregnated, it is designated by Josephus and the Greek and Eoman Writers, was anciently "full of slime pits," or, more properly, pits of litumen, for such is the sense of the word iu 252 BITUMINOUS SOIL OF SIDDIM. the original. (Gen. xiv. 10.) That the soil was also in a state of combustion is suggested by the fact that when Abraham " looked toward Sodom and Gomor- rah and toward aU the land of the Plain, and behold and lo, the smoke of the country went up as the smoke of a furnace." (Gen. xix. 28.) Josephus also speaks of occasional eruptions of flame and smoke from the soil of that neighbourhood in his days; and Volney, Burkliardt, Buckingham, and other travellers, speak of hot springs and volcanic substances, con- sisting of lava, sulphur, and basalt, still in the vicinity of the Lake. By volcanic means, then, it is highly probable the whole Vale of Siddim, with its cities, viz., Sodom, Gomorrah, Admah, and Zeboim, were sunk and destroyed, while fiery meteors from heaven were rained upon them. Bannister thinks that this depression of the land diverted the Jordan from its original course which he supposes to have been through an opening, still visible, leading into the Valley Ul Ghor, which descends uninterruptedly through El Ardba, to the Elanitic Gulf of the Eed Sea. Josephus, employing a poetic expression, says, that he saw on the banks of the Lake the shades of the overwhelmed Cities. The Euins of Sodom are men- tioned by Tacitus and Strabo, the latter of whom gives them a circumference of sixty Stadia — about seven miles. Father Nau, the Guardian, and the EUINS OF THE SUBMERGED CITIES. 253 Procurator of Jerusalem, both men in years, and to Maundrell " seemingly not destitute either, of sense or probity," informed him that they had once actually seen one of these Euins. They say that the waters were then so low, that they, together with some Frenchmen, went to it, and found there several Pil- lars and other fragments of buildings. But the height of the waters prevents travellers in general from seeing these Euins. Those who have seen them were favoured with seasons of pecidiar drought, when the depth and voliune of the waters are diminished by copious evaporation. Saline waters do not decompose and destroy, but, on the con- trary, harden and preserve organic bodies. If the branch of a tree, or the bone of an animal fall into this Lake, it becomes petrified. The testimony of these weighty authorities, therefore, need not be despised. This "deep caldron," — 150 feet below the level of the Mediterranean, — is in the Bible variously called the "Salt Sea," the "East Sea," and the "Sea of the Plain ; " while the Arabs style it Bahhr Lout, or the " Sea of Lot." Its shores are completely sterile, surrounded as they are by high limestone cliffs, with a burning sun above, and a bitter flood beneath. On the South is a hill called the " Salt Mountain," which is composed of rock-salt, but too bitter to be used. Indeed all the hiUs are more or less incrusted with 254 DETOUR THROUGH THE WILDERNESS. crystals of salt and siilpliur, which sparkle under the beam of the siin. Most travellers remain a night at the Greek Con- vent of San Saba; but the English Vice-Consul having been murdered in that vicinity a few days be- fore, the inhabitants were in such a state of excite- ment, that our Sheikh said it would not be safe to venture that way. We, therefore, made a detour to the West, in order to return to Jerusalem. Our way lay through another portion of the " Wilderness of Temptation," over limestone hills, during which, from the eminences, ever and anon, we caught sight of the Dead Sea, which, with the increasing distance, gradually appeared less until it disappeared. On- ward we moved up and down the mountains, like ships upon the stormy waves, and at length we came to Bethany, which we entered at the Northern side. THE TEIUMPHAL WAY. Passing out of Bethany, we were reminded that the road upon which we travelled was rendered sacred by the fact that upon it Christ had ridden in triumph to Jerusalem. Tlie crowds who had assembled at the Village on the previous night to satisfy their curiosity respecting the miracle of raising Lazarus, naturally flocked into this road, which was the main tlioroushfare round the Southern shoulder of Olivet. ENTRANCE OF CHEIST INTO JERUSALEM. 255 In passing along this road, we soon lose siglit of Bethany, and circumambulating the little Valley that furrows the hill, we cross a ridge on the Western side, where the first glimpse of Jerusalem is seen. Here probably " as He drew near, at the descent of the Mount of Olives," the shout was raised by the multitude, " Hosannah to the Son of Da^dd ! Blessed is He that cometh in the name of tlie Lord." (Matt. xxi. 9.) As we proceeded, the road declines, and the City is concealed behind the ridge of the Moimt ; but the path rises again, and after a rugged acclivity, crowns the ledge of a smooth rock. In an instant the whole City bursts into full view. Historians, with great probability, say that here the multitude paused, and " He, when He beheld the City, wept over it." (Luke xix. 41.) It is impossible to describe the feelings which came over my mind as I trode those hallowed pathways, which had been repeatedly tra- versed by Prophets and Apostles, and by the One infinitely greater. We dropped down the hiU liy a shelving path, having on our left a vast multitude of Jewish Tombs paving the declivity; and near the foot of the descent we skirted the waU of Gethsemane, then passing over the Kedron, ascended to St. Stephen's Gate, and thence, winding round the City Walls, came to an open space, where we spread our tents for the nicrht. 256 \TLLAGE " OYER AGAINST " BETHANY. When on the point of leaving Bethany, our Lord directed two of His disciples to " Go into a Village over against them." (^latt. xxi. 2, 3.) The question arises — AMiere was this Village situate ? Some iden- tify it with a poor Hamlet upon a rocky height, about a mile South of Bethany. But a quarter of a mUe from Bethany, on the way to Jerusalem, there is a projecting point, some 200 yards below the road, upon which the site of an ancient "village is marked by scarped rocks, cisterns, and stones. The claims of this seem preferable, as it lies more in the Saviour's route, and answers more truly to the expression "over against you." Besides, being close to the road, the inhabitants would already have seen the multitudes flocking from the City to meet Jesus, and the owners of the ass and colt would understand the disciple's words, " The Lord hath need of them." JEEUSALEM TO HEBEOX The Clergyman with whom we had been domiciled at the Hospice breakfasted with us in our tent on the morning of the 11th, and joined us in praising God for His gracious care over us in a foreign land. At half-past eight w^e struck our tents, and wxre on our way to Hebron. The Plain of Eephaim. — Lea\ang the frowning w^alls of the Citadel, we crossed the opposite bank, skirted the " Hill of Evil Counsel," and entered a MAR ELIAS — SEPULCHRE OF RACHEL. 257 "well cultivated plain, about a mile iu length. This is the " Plain of Eephaim," in which Da^dd vanquished the Philistines, and which is also called "The Valley of the Giants." (2 Sam. v. 18—25 ; Jos. xv. 8.) Mar Elias. — The Plain opens into the well cultivated fields of the Greek Christians, in which stands the Convent of Elias, — a large gray pile surrounded by a high wall. Here, according to tradition, the Prophet reclined beneath the shade of an olive, careworn, hungrj^, and weary, as he fled from the fury of Jezebel, and was comforted and nourished by the ministry of Angels. The Bible says that he rested mider a jmiiper in the Wilderness South of Beersheba, at least fifty or sixty miles distant from this place ; but of course the INIonks know best ! The Sepulchre of Eachel. — Passing down a steep hill on the side of the road, about a half-hour's journey from the Convent, a small white square building, surmounted by a cupola, was pointed out to us as the " Sepulchre of Eachel." The present structure is comparatively modern, but there can be no doubt respecting the site, since it is one of the few things upon which the traditions of Jews, Mus- lems, and Christians agree. The Tomb, as Jacob left it, remamed in the time of Moses, who speaks of it in the following teims : " And Eachel died, and was buried in the way to Ephrath, which is Bethle- hem, and Jacob set a pillar upon her grave : that is S 258 SOLOMON'S POOLS. the pillar of Eachel's grave unto this day." (Gen. XXXV. 19, 20.) That pillar has given place to other monumental forms ; but the roll of thirty centuries has not oblivioned the site so dear to the memory of the posterity of Eachel. Bethlehem is seen at a distance of about a mile, — a fact which enhances the beautifidly poetic description of the Shade of Eachel rising from the Sepulchre to wail over the Massacred Innocents. (Jer. xxxi. 15 ; Matt. ii. 17, 18.) Solomon's Pools. — Leaving Bethlehem on the left, in about an hour and a half, we next come to three deep Eeservoirs, supplied by very powerful springs of excellent water, which is thence conveyed by Aque- ducts to Bethlehem and Jerusalem. Dr. Eobinson measured these Eeservoirs, and describes the lower one as 582 feet by 207 at one end, and 148 at the other. Its companions are not quite so large. They are constructed of stone, covered with cement, and bear unmistakeable evidence of a high antiquity. Tew doubt that they are the works of Solomon, who probably refers to these and the Gardens surrounding them in the following expressions : — " I made me Gardens and Orchards, and I planted Trees in them of all kinds of fruits ; and I made me Pools of Water, to water theremth the v>'ood that bringeth forth trees." (Ecc. ii. 5, 6.) The water flows into the upper Pool from the Spring.?, and thence the middle and lower Pools are successively supplied. ENCAMPMENT AT HEBRON. 2r)9 This place, together with a little Village below, is supposed to be the Etam referred to in Judg. xV. 8, 1 1 ; and Tckoa (2 Chro. xi. 6) is not far olf. Many places and things of minor interest lay in our way which I have omitted to notice, not wishing to be too minute. HEBEOK Encampment. — After being seven hours and a half on the Saddle, we reached the usual place of encamp- ment, outside the walls of Hebron. It is an open plot of ground near to which are two Wells, that nearest the Town being approached by a flight of steps from each corner of a square opening. Both Wells are evidently very ancient, and doubtless one of them was that over which David hung the bodies of Eechab and Baanah who had slain Ish-bosheth the son of Saul. (2 Sam. iv. 12.) Soon after we had pitched our tents here, the Governor, accompanied Ijy one of his friends, politely waited upon us, and con- versed freely with our Interpreter respecting the Strangers under his guidance. HiSTOKY OF Hebron. — The most ancient name of Hebron was Kirjath-Arha, or the " City of Arba," from Area the father of Anak and of the Anakim who dwelt in that district. (Gen. xxiii. 2.) It appears also to have been called Mamre, j>robably' from the name of Abraham's Amoritish ally. It was 260 REMINISCENCES OF HEBRON. one of the most ancient cities, having heen hiu'lt " seven years liefore Zoan in Egypt." (Num. xiii. 22.) The Heljrew Patriarchs spent much of their time in tliis neighbonrhood; were all entombed here, and from this place the patriarchal family departed for Egypt. After the return of the Israelites, the city was taken by Joshua and given over to Caleb, who expelled the Anakim. It Avas subsequently made one of the Cities of Eefuge, and assigned to the Priests and Levites. David on becoming king made Hebron his royal residence. Here he reigned seven years and a half over the tribe of Judali, and thence removed to Jerusalem when his kingdom extended over all Israel. In process of time tliis city fell under the power of the Edomites, who had taken possession of the South of Judah, but was recovered from them by Judas Maccabseus. (1 J\Iacc. v. 65.) John the Baptist is supposed to liave been born here. Soon after the Crusaders had taken Jerusalem, Hebron also appears to have passed into their hands, in 1100, and was bestowed as a fief upon Gerhard of Avenues ; but two years after it is described as being in ruins. In 1167, it was made a Bishopric, and the title of " Bishop of Hebron" is found in the records of the Piomish Church as late as 1 365, though, it was merely nominal, for after the capture of Jerusalem by Saladin in 11 87, Hebron reverted to the Muslems, and has ever since remained in their possession. TOWS — CAVE OF MACHPELAH. 2G1 The Town lies low down on the sloping sides of the narrow Valley of JNIamre. The Houses are stone, high and well built, with windows and flat roofs, and on these roofs small domes, sometimes two or three to each house. The streets are narrow, seldom more than six or eight feet in width, dark, dirty, and difti- cult. The Bazaars are to a considerable extent covered, either by some kind of awning, or by arches springing from the tops of the houses. The Shops are well furnished with commodities similar to those exposed in Egypt, the only display of local manufac- ture being the produce of the Glass Works, for which the place has long been celebrated in these parts. Gates are placed, not only at the entrance, but in different parts of the interior of the City, and are closed at night to prevent communication between the different quarters. There are nine Mosques in Hebron, none of which possesses any architectural or antiquarian interest, with the exception of the massive structure built over the Tombs of the Pa- triarchs. The Cave of Machpelah, containing the Tombs of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob, with those of Sarah, Re- becca, and Leah, according to a tradition amongst the Jews, was surrounded by a building, the foundations of which still remain. Upon these Helena erected a ChiiTch, about the year 326, which afterwards was converted into the present famous Mosque of Hebion, 2fi2 INTERIOR OF THE CAVE OF MACHPELAH. and is one ot" the Four Sanctuaries of tlie Ma- hometan World. It is a long black building, having two stately domes. Ali Bey, a Spaniard, who trp.- A'elled as a Muslem, and Giovanni Finati, the Italian servant of Mr. Banks, contrived to gain access to the ]\Iosque, from which Christians have been rigorously excluded. The Prince of Wales, however, has lately been permitted to enter. The Eev. V. Monro fur- nishes an account of the interior, without, however, stating the means by wliich he obtained his informa- tion. He says "the dimensions mthin are about forty paces by twenty -five. Immediately on the right of the door is the Tomb of Sarah, and beyond it is that of Abraham, with a passage between them. Corre- sponding with these, on the opposite side of the Mosque, are those of Isaac and Eebecca, and behind them is a Eecess for Prayer, and a Pulpit. These Tombs resemble small huts, with a window on each side, and folding-doors in front, the lower parts of which are wood, and the upper of iron or bronze bars plated. Within each of these is an imitation of the Sarcophagus, which lies in the Cave below the ]\Iosque, which no one is allowed to enter. Those seen above resemble Coffins, with pjTamidal tops, and are covered with green silk, lettered with verses from the Koran. In the Mosque is a Baldacchin, sup- ported by four columns, over an octagonal figure of black and white marble, inlaid round a small hole in TOMB OF ESAF — TINEYAEDS OF ESHCOL. 263 the pavement, through which a chain passes from the top of the canopy to a lamp continually burning to give light in the Cave of IMachpelah, where the actual Sarcophagi rest. At the upper end of the court is the chief Place of Prayer ; and at the opposite side of the Mosque are two larger Tombs, where are de- posited the bodies of Jacob and Leah." The Tomb of Esau is behind the Mosque, he not being privileged to lie among his relatives. It is covered with a small cupola, having eight or ten windows. The Population of Hebron is probably about 8,000. There are no resident Christians. The Jews amount to about one hundred families, mostly natives of European countries, who have immigrated for the purpose of laying their bones near the Sepulchres of their illustrious ancestors. They have two Syna- gogues and several Schools. As usual, they have a '•' Quarter " of the City to themselves, where the streets are narrow and filthy, and the houses mean. HEBPtON TO BETHLEHEM. EsHCOL. — Vineyards abound in Judea more than elsewhere in Palestine. Hence the propriety of the blessing pronounced by Jacob upon his favoured son. " Binding his foal to the vine, and his ass's colt to the choice vine, he washed his garments in wine, and his clothes in the blood of grapes." (Gen. xlix. 11.) 264 abrailvm's oak, etc. It was from the Valley of Eshcol that the spies cut dowii the gigantic buuch ; and this Valley is still remarkable for the quality of its vines. (Num. xiii. 23, 24) Abraham's Oak. — After ridino: alonsr this fruitful Valley for about twenty -five minutes, we came up to to the so-called " Abraham's Oak." It stands alone in the midst of vineyards ; the ground is smooth and clean beneath it, and close by is a well, but now filled with brushwood. This splendid tree measures 23 feet round the lower part of the trunk, and its foliage covers a space of nearly 90 feet in diameter. Though evidently of great age, it is sound and flourishing, and there are few trees in Syria to be compared with it. The great Plane-tree of Da- mascus is nearly double its girth; but it has suf- fered much, both from the hand of man and the tooth of time. Though we have no history of this venerable tree, it is a fine representative of the " Oaks of Mamre," under whose shade Abraham communed with his Creator and entertained Angels. Following that ancient road to Jerusalem, though rugged and rough, the ground was holy as having been traversed by Patriarchs and Prophets. Abra- ham passed over it in his journey to Moriah to sacrifice his Isaac in faithful obedience to the voice of God, David led his veterans over it when he THE CITY OF DAVID. 26') advanced to storm aud take the strongholds of Zion. And probably the infant Jesus was borne over this road in the Virgin's arms in flight to Egypt from the cruelty of Herod. To English eyes the country may look wild, yet the prospects are beautifid, as they are varied by liills and dales, craggs and sheltered nooks, rugged glens and level plains. Every prospect of beauty opened once to the eyes of the Hebrew Pa- triarchs, to Samuel, to David, and to Solomon. The cities in which they sojourned are indeed heaps of ruins ; but the broad features of nature remain. Onward we moved, until at length Bethlehem hove in sight, and appeared a very pretty town ; but ex- perience led us to presume that '"Tis distance lends enchantment to the view." BETHLEHEM. Bethlehem,- or the "House of Bread," was probably so called on account of the fertility of the District in which it stood. It was also called Eplirath or Ephrata, that is, " The fruitfid," after Caleb's wife ; and " The City of David," because that Monarch was bom there ; also " Bethlehem of Judea," to distinguish it from another Bethlehem in the Tribe of Zebidun. (Gen. xlviii. 7 ; Mic. v. 2 ; Lu. ii. 4 ; Matt. ii. 1, 5.) Here David spent his early years in the humble occupation of a Shepherd ; until his encounter with Goliath opened to him a more glorious 266 CHURCH OF THE XAXmTY. career. Here also were born Abijani, Elimelech, Obed, Jesse, Boaz, and Matthias ; and here is the Scene of the beautiful Eclogue of Euth. But that which gives this- place preeminence, Jerusalem ex- cepted, is, that here the Son of the Highest con- descended to be born in humbleness and poverty. — " And thou Bethlehem-Ephratah, though thou be little among the thousands of Judah, yet out of thee shall He come forth unto Me, that is to be Ruler in Israel, whose goings forth have been from of old, from Everlasting." (Mic. v. 2.) The Church of the Natr^ty has been built over the place where this stupendous event is sup- posed to have transpired. It is built in the form of a Cross ; the ISTave being adorned with forty-eight Corinthian Pillars in four rows, each column being two feet six inches in diameter, and eighteen feet high, including the base and ^ the capital. The IsTave is separated from the three other branches of the Cross by a WaU, so that the Unity of the Ediiice is destroyed. The top of the Cross is occupied by the Choir. Here is an Altar dedicated to the Wise Men of the East, at the foot of which is a marble Star, corresponding, as the Monks say, to the point of the heavens where the miraculous Meteor became sta- tionary, and directly over the spot where the Saviour was born. The Grotto of the Nativity. — A ilight of fifteen GROTTO OF THE XATR^TY. 267 steps, and a long narrow passage conduct to tlie sacred Crypt or " Grotto of the Xativity," which is 37| feet long by 11| broad and 9 feet high. It is lined and floored Tvith IMarble, and provided on each side with five Oratories, " answering precisely to the Ten Cribs or Stalls for Horses that the Stable in which our Sa^dour was born contained." ( ! ) Tlie exact spot of the Birth is marked by a " Glory " in the floor, com- posed of marble and jasper encircled with silver, around which are inscribed the words, Hic de ViEGiXE ISIaeia Jesus Christus natus est, — Here Jesus Clirist vjos horn of tlie Virgin Mary. The Vault is lighted by lamps and tapers in considerable numbers. Over the " Glory " is a Marble Table, or Altar, which rests against the side of the rock, here cut into an Arcade. The Manger is at the distance of seven paces from the Altar. It is in a low recess hewn out of the rock, to which you descend by two steps, and consists of a block of marble, raised about a foot and a half above the floor, and hollowed out. The Friars insist that the Infant Sa^viour was laid here ; but this is imposing too much upon credulity. It is possible that the Stable in which the Lord was born was in a Cave, for Caves are now used for Stables in the East, and may have been so used two thousand years since ; but this Marble Manger 1 Be- fore the Manger is the Altar of the Magi. TJie Crrotto of St. Jerome. — In another Subtenan^jan 268 CONVENTS — WELL OF BETHLEHEM. Chapel, tradition places the Sepulchres of the Inno- cents. From this the Pilgrim is conducted to the " Grotto of St. Jerome/' where the Monks shew the Tomb of that Father, who passed a great part of his life in this place ; and who in the Grotto shewn as his Oratory, is said to have translated that Version of the Bible which has been adopted by the Church of Eome and is called the Vulgate. The Convents. — Abutting upon the Church of the Nativity on its North-Eastern side is a Latin Con- vent; upon the South-Eastern side is another be- longing to the Greeks, and the Armenians have a third which lies upon the South- West. Thus, as in tlie Church of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem, these Sects, who inveterately detest each other, find rallying points in their superstitious. In their own way they are all sufiiciently learned in historical details to be able to shew, in addition to things already described, the Corner in which Joseph stood awaiting the an- nouncement of the " New-born Child." The Well of Bethlehem. — Josephus makes allu- sion to a celebrated Well, which, both from his ac- count of its situation and from that of the Sacred Scriptures, seems to have been the identical Foun- tain which stands near to the Sepulchre of Eachel. "Considered," says Dr. E. D. Clarke, "merely in point of interest, the narrative is not likely to be sur- passed by any circumstance of Pagan history. David THE LIBATION OF DAYID. 269 being a native of Bethlehem, calls to mind, during the snltiy days of harvest, a Well near the Gate of the Town, the delicious waters of which he had ctften tasted; and expresses an earnest desire to assuage his thirst by drinking of that limpid spring. ' And David longed and said, that one would give me to drink of the water of the Well of Bethlehem, which is by tlie Gate ! ' The exclamation is overheard by 'three of the mighty men whom Da\dd had,' yiz., Adino, Eleazar, and Shammah. These men sallied forth, and having fought their way through the Gar- rison of the Philistines at Bethlehem, ' drew Avater from the Well that w^as by the Gate ' on the other side of the Town, and brought it to David. Coming into his presence, they present to him the surprising testimony of their valour and affection. The aged Monarch receives from their hands a pledge they had so dearly earned, but refuses to drink of water every drop of which had been purchased with blood. He returns thanks to the Almighty, who had vouchsafed the deliverance of his warriors from the jeopardy they had encountered ; and, pouring out the water as a libation on the ground, makes an offering of it to the Lord." (2Sam. xxiii. l^U-17.) The Population of Bethlehem, or Bcit-Lahm, as it is now called, is about 3,500, the whole of whom are Christians. The greater part of the inhabitants gain their livelihood by making beads, carving 270 KETUEN TO JEKUSALEM. mother-of-pearl shells with sacred subjects, and manufacturing small tables and crucifixes. Such things are eagerly purchased by the Pilgrims. EETUEN TO JERUSALEM. Having travelled twenty miles from Hebron, we had only six more to ride to regain Jerusalem. Lea^dng the terraced slopes and vineyards of Bethle- hem, we came up to a Euin, pointed out as the " Tower of Simeon," the aged Saint, who lifted the Infant Messiah in his arms, and, having feasted his vision, desired to die. Pursuing our way through the Plain of Eephaim, the Holy City came in sight, and awakened in my mind trains of thought relative to the wonderful history of that most interesting place. At 4.15 we arrived outside the Jaffa Gate, and a second time pitched out tents for the night. CHAPTER VIII. PALESTINE— CONTINUED. JEEUSALEM TO BETHEL. About Two o'clock in the afternoon, March 13th, we were on our way to Bethel, having for the last time visited Jerusalem. After riding several miles, the road led to a lofty Mountain, from whose summit the dear old spot came fidl in View. The first Vision of the City was one of disappointment ; but this last prospect was one of intense admiration, awakening the deepest sympathy and gratitude. "Peace be within thy walls and Prosperity within thy Palaces ! " Another lingering look, and we bade Jerusalem adieu, hoping next to see that Holy City, New Jerusalem coming down from God out of heaven, and to behold the King Hhnself in His beauty. I could almost adopt the plaintive, passionate language of the captive Hebrews by the Streams of Babylon : — " If I forget thee, O Jerusalem, let my right hand forget her cunning. If I do not remember thee, let my tongue cleave to the roof of my mouth." Passing over the Mountain, we enter a naked deso- late track. A broad undulating plateau extends Northwards for about half-a-mile, and then passing 272 PvAMAH OF BEXJAmN. between a bare conical peak on the riglit, and a bleak rounded hill on the left, declines gently into a wide vale. The trees are few and stunted ; the patches cultivated, have a gTay parched appearance, and are almost hidden by bald crowns of limestone rock, rugged heaps of stone, and ruins of Villages. Eamah of Bexjajmin was formerly seated upon a hill a little to the East of the road we were pursuing, and is marked by a ruined Village called Er-Bam. From the story of the poor Levite we learn that that place was not far from Gibeah, and this desolated Village agrees to the description. ( Jud. xix. 1 3.) It lies between Gibeon and Beeroth, with which places it is associated in the Catalogue of the Cities of Ben- jamin given in the Book of Joshua. (Jos. xviii. 25.) This is set forth as one of the valuable identifica- tions for which Biblical Geography is indebted to Dr. Eobinson, as elucidating the difficult text : — " A voice was heard in Eamah . . . Eachel weeping for her children," — wliich the Evangelist transfers to the Massacre at Bethlehem. This Eamah being farther South than other places of the same name, has been thought best to agree with the imagery of Jeremiah taken in connection with the Evangelical accommo- dation. But it is still too far North, being about twelve miles from Eachel's Sepulchre. There is, how- ever, within four hundred yards of the Sepulchre, a heap of old rubbish, wliich Dr. Thompson's Guide, BEEEOTH — REMINISCENCES OF BETHEL. 273 with far greater probability, pointed out to him as the remains of the Eamah in question. Beeroth. — Leaving Eamah of Benjamin, we soon reached Beeroth, or El-Bera, a town pleasantly- situated on a large hOl, numbering a Muslem popu- lation, with a few Christians among them, of about 800. It has its name from a Well or Spring at the bottom of the hill, Beeroth, being simply the plural of Beer, a Well. There are here the Euins of a fine old Gothic Church. BETHEL. Eeminiscences. — Attracted by its waters and pastures, Abraham pitched, his tent at this place, while yet it was known by the name of Luz. Here Jacob, in his flight from Esau, slept upon the bare gromid, as many an Arab does to this day, and had that wonderful dream of the ladder, from the Slie- kinah, upon whose summit the Voice came rolling forth, "In thee, and in thy Seed, shall all the families of the earth be blessed." Here, therefore, he erected a Pillar for a memorial and called the place "Bethel," or "House of God." To this place he returned after an interval of twenty, or, according to others, forty years, and wrestled with the Angel of Mercy by Whom his name was changed to " Israel." Here he buried Deborah, Eachel's nurse, under an oak. At this place, already consecrated in the time of T 274 IDENTITY OF BEITIX AND BETHEL. the Patriarchs, the Ark of the Covenant, and pro- bably the Tabernacle, were for a long time deposited. It was also one of the places at which Samuel held, in rotation, his Courts of Justice. Jeroboam made it the Southern seat of the worship of the Golden Calves, whence the Prophet, in derision, calls it Bethaven, the " House of Vanity," or " Idols," instead of the "House of God." (Hos. iv. 15.) The Town. — Until within the last few years. Bethel and its name were believed to have perished ; but the Protestant Missionaries at Jerusalem dis- covered that the name was preserved in the form of Beitin — the Arabic termination in for the Hebrew el, being a usual change. In about half an hour after leading El-Bera we came to this place, and remained there for the night. It is ever3rwhere, except upon the South, surroxmded by rising ground, and yet from its loftiest point the Dome of the great Mosque at Jerusalem is visible. The Euins of the ancient City cover the whole surface of tlie ridge, and are three or four acres in extent. They consist of foundations, fragments of walls, and heaps of stones. Upon the highest ground are the remains of a square Tower. Towards the South are the walls of a Greek Church, which stands within the foundations of a much older edifice, built of large stones. About twenty huts were thrown up from the materials of the wreck. In the AVestern VaUey IDENTITY OF SEILUN AND SHILOH. 275 there is a large Cistern, 314 feet by 217, constructed of massive stones. The Southern side is entire, but the others are in a dilapidated condition. In the bottom is a beautiful grass-plat watered by two crystal fountains, from which, doubtless, the Maidens of Sarah filled their pitchers, and the flocks of Abraham were refreshed. SHILOH. On leaving Bethel we had a dreary ride for three hours, through a desolate uninteresting district, and at length sighted Seilun, a City surrounded by hills, with an opening from a narrow valley into a plain on the South. This Eobuison identifies with the ancient Shiloh. There are few places whose situa- tion is more particularly indicated in Scripture : — " On the North side of Bethel, on the East of the highway that goeth up from Betliel to Shechem, and on the South of Lebonah." (Jud. xxi. 19.) Here the Tabernacle and the Ark remained from the days of Joshua to the end of Eli's life. Here Abijah, the Prophet, resided. But after the removal of the Ark it simk into insignificance, and is more than once mentioned as "accursed" and "forsaken." The Euins at present consist chiefly of an old Tower, with walls four feet thick, and large stones and fragments of columns. 276 EEMINISCENCES OF SHECHEM. SHECHEM. At the end of a verdant Plain, stretching away Northwards about seven miles, and varying from one to two miles in breadth, whose surface is unbroken by either village or fence, stands Shechem, some- times in the Old Testament called " Sichem," in the New Testament, "Sychar," and in modern Arabic, Nabulus. Eeminiscences. — The history of Shechem extends over a period of nearly four thousand years. The first spot where Abraham pitched his tent in Canaan was " the place of Sichem unto the plain of Moreh." (Gen. xii. 6.) Jacob also came to this fine pastoral region immediately on his return from Mesopotamia, and pitched his tent hcfore, that is. East of the City, near to Shalem. To this day there is a little village called Salim, on the lower slope of the hills, at a dis- tance of about two miles. There the Patriarch bought from Hamor that " parcel of a field" still marked by his Well and the Tomb of his favourite son. (Gen. xxxiii. 18 — 20.) It was here too that Simeon and Levi so treacherously avenged the dishonour of their sister Dinah. When Jacob removed to Hebron, he retained possession of his fields, and to these he sent Joseph to seek his brethren, whence he was directed to Dothan, and there sold to the Ishmaelites. (Gen. xxxvii.) In Shechem Eehoboam was proclaimed King over Israel, and here the standard of revolt was SITUATION UPON GERIZIM. 277 Taised against him, which seated Jeroboam upon the Throne of a rival Kingdom. The dignity of this place, however, soon paled before Tirzah, which in its turn gave place to Samaria ; but it remained one of the Cities of Eefuge as long as the Jewish polity was in force. The Town in all probability now occupies the site of the ancient Shechem, although its dimensions may be more contracted. The fertility and beauty of the deep and narrow Valley in which it stands have been much admired by travellers, as far exceeding what they have elsewhere seen in Palestine. This Valley is not more than five hundred yards wide at the Town, which stands directly upon its watershed, the streams on the Eastern part flowing off towards the Jordan, while the fountains on the West send off a pretty brook toward the Mediterranean. The Town is long and narrow, extending along the N.E. base of Mount Gerizim, and partly resting upon its declivity. The Streets are narrow, tortuous, and filthy, and the Houses are high, generally well built, all of stone, with domes upon the roofs, as at Jerusalem. The Bazaars are good and well supplied. There are no ruins which can be called ancient in the place, but there are remains of a Church of fine Byzantine architecture, and a handsome arched Gateway, both apparently of the time of the first Crusades. These occur in the main street, through the whole length 278 EBAL AND GERIZIM. of which a stream of clear water rushes down — a rare circumstance in the East. Ebal and Geeizim. — The little Vale of Shechem is shut in on the North and South by the dark rocky- sides of Ehal and Gerizim, which have the appear- ance of twins. AATienever a nook or projection is presented in the side of one, there is a nook or pro- jection corresponding in the side of the other. On the summit of Ebal is a broad stony platform, with a few important Euins ; but there appears no trace of the Altar built by Joshua, on whicli the Law was inscribed. (Jos. viii. 30 — 35.) As from this moun- tain curses were denounced, so from Gerizim, at the opposite side of the Valley, blessings were declared. The ascent of Gerizmi is steep ; but it winds up a beautiful glen on the South side of the Town, which opens in charming prospects, rich in many-tinted foliage, and vocal with the warbling of birds and murmuring of streams. The summit is a broad irre- gidar plateau, thickly strewn with stones, but culti- vated in patches and terraces between them. Erom hence the great wall of the Trans- Jordanic mountains is seen on the East ; on the Xorth the snowy peak of Hermon appears on the horizon ; the Plain of Sharon peeps through the openings of the liills, and the waters of the Mediterranean are seen stretching away on the West, while the IMountaius of Ephraim close round. Our attention was directed to the place Joseph's tomb — Jacob's avell. 279 where the Samaritans annually encamp at the Feast of the Passover ; and in another place are shown the Euins of the ancient Samaritan Temple, with its " Holy of Holies," towards which that people still turn when they pray, and wliich they approach reverently without their shoes. Amongst the Euins are also the remains of a INIuslem Wely, a Cemetery, several deep Cisterns and Wells, with a multitude of things which to describe would reqmre pages. Joseph's Tomb. — South of Nabulus is Joseph's Tomb ; a little Muslem Wely marks the spot, which is probably identical. On his death-bed in Egypt, "Joseph took an oath of the Children of Israel, sayingj God will surely visit you, and ye shall carry up my bones from hence." Accordingly, when they came out, they remembered his words, "And the bones of Joseph, which the Children of Israel brought out of Egypt, buried tliey in Shechem, in a parcel of ground which Jacob bought of the sons of Hamor, the father of Shechem." (Gen. l. 25 ; Jos. xxiv. 32.) Jacob's Well. — A few hundred yards from the Tomb of Joseph is Jacob's Well, now surrounded by the Euins of an old Greek Church. Here Jesus rested at noon, wearied with a long walk up the hot Plain, He having come from Jerusalem, as we had, and engaged the Woman of Samaria in that marvel- lous conversation in which He "told her all the thinjjs that ever she did." 280 POPULATION OF XABULUS. " At Jacob's Well a Stranger sought His drooping frame to cheer : Samaria's daughter little thought That Jacob's God was there. " The uninterrupted expanse of corn-fields, still in a flourishing condition, naturally reminds one of the words of Jesus to His disciples. " Lift up your eyes and look on the fields, for they are white already to harvest." He doubtless referred to the multitude of the Samaritans who by this time were flocking from Sychar to hear His words ; but the image was sug- gested by the cultivation. (Jno. iv.) Population, &c. — Nabulus has a population of about 8,000 : 500 of whom are Christians; 130, Samaritans; about 50, Jews; and the rest Muslems. The chief productions are Soap, Cotton, and Oil. The Soap-Works are large, and the trade flourishing. The Oil is considered among the best in Syria. Like every town in the district, this is embowered in Olive- groves. The trees are of slow growth, and live con- siderably more than one thousand years. The old ones with their great gnarled and furrowed stems have a venerable appearance. The Olive is ten or twelve years old before it pelds a return for the expense of culti- vation. The berries ripen in November or December, and are then beaten off the branches with long sticks. (Deut. xxiv. 20.) Women and children pick them up, and carry them upon their heads to the SAMARITAN SYNAGOGUE. 281 Presses, where, by a rude and clumsy apparatus, the Oil is extracted, and then poured into Skins or Earthen-jars. Figs, also, and Vines, abound in this district, which still stand forth a memorial of the fruitfulness promised to the inheritance of Ephraim. (Gen. xlix. 22—26; Deut. xxxiii. 14—16.) The Samaritans. — Being Saturday evening, we found our way to the Samaritan Synagogue, whose worship appeared to us a vnld irreverent rant, con- sisting of hackneyed recitations, interspersed with repeated undevotional prostrations. Nothing like solemnity or even decent propriety appeared through- out the Service. But "The Lord knoweth them that are His." We should remember that " In every na- tion he that feareth God and worketh righteousness is accepted with Him." After the ceremony, the Priest showed us their celebrated Copy of the Pentateuch, written, as they affirm, by Abishua, the Son of Phineas, the Son of Eleazar, the Son of Aaron. This would make it nearly 3,300 years old ; but though tattered, patched, and stained, neither the parchment nor the writing appeared to us of great antiquity. It is a ponderous roll, kept in a cylindrical brass case, which opens upon hinges. The hatred of these Samaritans to the Jews is as bitter now as it was eighteen centuries since. They will neither eat nor pray with them, but have no objection to transact a little profitable business ! (Jno. iv. 9.) 282 EEMINISCENCES OF SAMAMA. SAIVIAEIA. Eeminiscences. — Samaria was tlie imperial City of the Ten Tribes, and Capital of tlie Pro-\dnce of tlie same name. It was built by Omri, the Sixth King of- Israel, B.C. 921. "He bought the Hill of Shemer for two talents of silver, and built on the hiU, and called the name of the City which he built after Shemer, the owner of the hill, Samaria." (1 Kings xvi. 24.) It was twice besieged by Benhadad, King of Syria, but without success, though, during the second siege, it was reduced to such an extremity, that the head of an ass was sold for eighty shekels — value about £10. In 721 B.C. it was taken after a three years' siege, by Shalmanezer, who rased it to the ground, carried the Ten Tribes captive into Assyria, and replaced them by Colonists from tliat country. (2 Kings x^di. 6, 24.) It was again reduced to ruins by Hyrcanus B.C. 129; after which it was re- built by Gabinus, and restored to magnificence by Herod, .who called it Schaste, in honour of Augustus (Sebastos) Csesar. At that time it was twenty fur- longs in circumference. Here Philip "preached Christ," and founded a Church. Here too Simon the Sorcerer, was baptized, and afterwards, excom- municated. (Acts ^dii. 5 — 24.) It became the Seat of a Bishop in the early days of Christianity, but in the Fifth Century sunk into ruins. The Town at present consists of about sixty houses JOURNEY FEOM SAMAEIA TO JEXIX. 283 • substantially built of the materials of its former magnificence, and occupied by about four himdred Mahometans. We came to it after a pleasant ride of six miles from Sliechem. It stands on a fine large insulated hill compassed by a broad deep valley, the hills surrounding which are terraced and cultivated to the top, sown ^Yith. grain and planted with fig and olive-trees. The first object seen on entering the Village is the ruined Church of St. John converted into a Mosque. We did not enter this because of the surliness of the inliabitauts, who sometimes resort to violence to prevent travellers from doing so. The hill has so long been under cultivation that the stones of ruined Temples and Palaces have been carefidly removed from the soil and thrown into heaps. There are still standing, how- ever, about sixty ancient Columns, all decapitated, and deeply sunk in the soil, and many others lie among the Terraces and Ohve-trees, which probably are relics of Colonnades with which Herod had adorned the City. The present state of th'e place re- calls the words of prophecy : " I will make Samaria as a heap of the field ; " — " Samaria shall become desolate, for she hath rebelled against her God." (Mic. i. 6; Hos. xiii. 16.) FEOM SMIAEIA TO JENIX. GiBEAH. — Leaving Samaria, and travelling through 284 GIBEAH — DOTH AN. a pleasant country, the hills and vales in whose course are dotted with Hamlets, we came to a large and flourishing Village picturesquely seated on the lower slope of a hill, and overlooking a rich green Valley. This is " Geba," formerly called " Gibeah," which, because it was the native place and afterwards the royal residence of Saul, is also called " Gibeah of Saul." (Isa. X. 29.) DoTHAK. — ^We next enter the verdant Plain of Dothan, whose fertility was not unknown to the sons of Jacob ; for having pastured their flocks for a time in the Plain of Shechem, they led them on to this more Northerly vale. The name Dothan, or Doth-ain, signifies "The Two Wells." Hither Joseph came after his brethren, w^ho from the eminence could easily see him "afar ofi'" as he descended the side of the hill. Here they conspired to throw him into one of those empty Cisterns or Pits common in this region, and afterwards agreed to sell him to the Midianitish Merchants. In later times, w^hen the Syrian army under Benhadad invaded Israel, and marched against Samaria, the Prophet Elisha was residing at Dothan, and gave full information to his coimtrymen of the most secret designs of the enemy. Apprised of this the Syrian Monarch resolved upon seizing the Prophet, and surrounded the place with his warriors. The Servant of the Man of God came running in and cry- ing, " Alas, my Master ! how shall we do ? " but his PLAIN OF ESDRAELON. 285 confidence was assured by the vision of " horses and chariots of fire round about Elisha." (2 Kin. vi. 8 — 23.) Jenin. — Passing over the Plain we came to Jenin and pitched our tent for the night. It is a town of some importance, numbering from two to three thousand inhabitants, a few Christian families amongst them. An Agha also resides here witli a force of fifty horsemen, to protect the district and keep the roads clear, — duties however, which are very indifferently performed. The place abounds in rich Gardens, hedged with the prickly-pear, and receiving an Oriental air from a few palm-trees. Jenin was the ancient En-Gannim. THE PLAIN OF ESDEAELON. Again on our wav on the morning of the 16th March, we enter the Great Battle-field of Palestine, the Plain of Esdraelon, better known to the Biblical Student as the "Plain of Megiddo." Here Barak triumphed over the hosts of Sisera. Here Josiah fought in disguise against Necho, King of Egypt, and fell by the arrows of his antagonist. Jews, Saracens, Crusaders, Frenchmen, Egyptians, Persians, Druses, Turks, and Arabs — Warriors " out of every nation under heaven," have pitched their tents here. In 1799, Murat here obtained a decisive victory over the Mamelukes and Arabs, in their bold attempt to re- lieve Acre. This Plain is the Armageddon of the 286 JEZREEL — NABOTH'S VINEYARD. Apocalypse. It is about thirty miles in length and twenty in breadth, enclosed on all sides by moun- tains ; the hills of Nazareth to the North ; those of Samaria to the South ; to the East, Tabor and Her- mon, and Carmel to the South- West. Hitherto we had little else than riding up and down rugged mountains, but here we could canter along a smooth and most fertile plain. Gilboa was full in view be- fore us. Jezreel. — In two hours and a half we came to Jezreel, now called Zer'in, which is perched on the crest of a low spur projecting some distance into the Plain from Gilboa. This spur is only a few feet higher than the country we had crossed ; but on the North side there is a descent of nearly 1 00 feet into the central arm of the Plain. The Modern Village is composed of about twenty -WTetched houses, fast falling into ruin. Such is the vestige of the once Eoyal Jezreel, where Aliab had a Palace and where three of his Successors resided ; — the scene also of some of the bloodiest tragedies in Sacred History. Standing upon the crown of the ridge, perhaps on the site of Ahab's Palace, with the 21st Chapter of the 1 Kings open, the Story of poor Naboth is read witli fresh interest. Below us in the Plain is a Vineyard, if not that of Naboth, at least a representative of the occasion of the covetous and cruel craft of Jezebel. After the house of Ahab fell, Jezreel sank into decay. SHUNEM— VIEW OF TABOR. 287 Shunem. — The road now leads through rich corn- fields along the Plain of Shunem, a City of Issachar, now called Solem. (Jos. xix. 18.) The scene of the interesting Story of the Shunamite and her Son is now before us. Here stood the Village where that noble woman built a little Chamber on the Wall for the use of the Prophet. Into one of these Corn-fields surrounding the Village the " child " of promise— the reward of piety and hospitality, " went out to his father to the reapers," and fell a victim probably to a sun-stroke. Across that great Plain to yonder ridge of blue mountains, his mother rode to the Man of God to Carmel to open to him the sad tale of her be- reavement. Accompanied l^y the Prophet she re- turned over the same Plain to receive from him her Son, thus doubly now the Gift of Heaven. (2 Kings iv. 8 — 37.) In the present Village there is not a vestige of antiquity. It is encompassed with Gardens hedged with prickly-pears, and is evidently in a flourishing state. From Shunem we pass roimd the AVestern base of Little Hermon, here getting our first view of Tabor ; which rises like the segment of a vast Sphere, and is dotted with oaks to its very summit. It stands alone in the Plain, and presents an outline of grace sm-- passing expectation. Over its left shoulder, far away upon the horizon, the Snowy Peak of Hermon towers. From this aspect the Eoyal Poet might weU sing — 288 NAIN — ENDOR. " The JiTorth and the South, Thou hast created them ; Tabor and Hermon shall rejoice in Thy name." (Psa. Ixxxix. 12.) Nain. — After a ride of about fifty minutes we came to the hamlet of Nain, consisting of a few poor houses in a bleak situation, but commanding an extensive view of the Plain with the INIountains of Galilee be- yond. Yet uninteresting as the place looks, it leaves a deeper impression upon the memory than many places on which Nature has lavished her choicest gifts. In imagination we see the Funeral Procession of the Widow's Son issuing from the Gate — the Men carrying the Open Bier, the Women behind gTouped round the bereaved Widow, and rending the air with their wild cries as Mourners in the East do to this day. We see another Procession meeting tliis, headed by One 'WTiose glance of compassion is more than human. To the Widow He says, in accents which thrill her soul, " Weep not," and approaches the bier. The bearers halt, awed by the mien of the mysterious Stranger ! " Young man, I say unto thee. Arise." Immediately the Shawl is thrown up, and the Son of the Widow is in the midst of the crowd clasped in the embrace of his mother. (Lu. vii. 11 — 15.) ExDOR. — At a distance of not more than three or four miles from Nain stands Endor, situate on the Northern slope of the lower ridge of Little Hermon. It has its name, according to some, from Bn and J)o7', MOUNT OF PRECIPITATION. 280 that is, the " House-Fountain ; " but Mr. Bryant derives it from En and Ador, viz., " The Fountain of Light," referring to the Oracle of tlie God Ador, probably founded by the Canaauites. That many such Oracles existed in Canaan is evident from the num- ber which Saul is said to have suppressed. At this Oracle of Endor that ]\Ionarch, on the eve of the battle in which he perished, consulted with the Sor- ceress, whereupon Samuel appeared, and predicted the sequel. Wliether it was Samuel himself or some impersonation of him raised by legerdemain, or by Satanic agency, has been much discussed ; but what- ever comes of the controversy, the history has invested this place with an imperishable interest. The Mount of Precipitation. — Leaving the Plain, we ascended a barren hdl that rises more abruptly than others in the ridge, to which the Monks ha'^^e given the name of the "Mount of Precipitation." The reference is to the passage in the Evangelist where the Jews, filled with wrath at the words of Jesus, "rose up and thrust Him out of the City [Nazareth] and led Him unto the brow of the hill whereon their City was built, that they might cast Him down headlong." (Lu. iv. 29.) But this is justly denounced by Dr. Eobinson, as the most clumsy of all the local legends of the Holy Laud, since the Evangelist states that the "hill" was one "upon which the City was built," whereas this place is about u 290 REMINISCENCES OF NAZARETH. two miles distant. The Monks themselves are now so pressed with the absurdity of their tale that they allege the ancient Nazareth was nearer to the Moun- tain than the modern. This, however, only increases their difficulties, as it destroys the credit of their own Holy Places within the present City. The Doctor has noticed several Precipices around the Western hill upon which Nazareth was seated, any of which might, with some appearance of probability, have been indicated as the spot to which the Jews led Jesus. NAZAEETH. Eeminiscences. — Crossing the rugged mountains of Gralilee, in about an hour we arrived at Naza- reth, a place intensely interesting to the Christian as the home of the Saviour until His entrance, at the age of thirty, upon His Public Ministry. Here was the scene of His domestic virtues and private life. Often in His boyhood must He have moved through those streets, and in company with His mother visited the Fountain, or sat upon the house- top in the tranquil eventide. To Him those rocky heights were all familiar, as probably He there medi- tated upon His grand commission and held commu- nion with the Father. After entering upon His Great Vocation, His preaching so exasperated the citizens that they sought to destroy Him by pushing Him BEAUTIFUL APPEARANCE OF THE TOWN. 291 over tlie brow of a cliff. Only one other occasion is recorded of His appearing in Nazareth, upon which violence was not offered, but bitter taunts were sub- stituted : — " Is not this the Carpenter, the Son of Mary, the Brother of James and Joses and Judas and Simon ? And are not His Sisters with us ? And they were offended at Him." (Matt. xiii. 54 — 58; Mar. vi. 1 — 6.) We cannot wonder at the Satire of Nathanael upon the proverbial wickedness of the Town, " Can any good thing come out of Nazareth ?" The Town at present is one of the neatest in Palestine. It appears not to have suffered so much from war as other places, and it has recently been restored and beautified by the erection of a number of excellent houses. It is built in the form of a Cross, and the Valley which it commands is a circular basin, encompassed by a range of fifteen mountains, which seem as if they met and united to form an enclosure for this delightful spot. A com- parison of the present City with the Evangelical references to the ancient Nazareth will shew tliat tlie sites are identical. The Houses in some places seem to cling to the precipices of "the hill on which the City is built;" in others they nestle in glens, and others stand out boldly and overlook the valley. The most prominent objects are the great Franciscan Convent, and the Turkish Mosque. The Houses are of stone, and have a clean substantial 292 LATIN CONVENT — HOLY GROTTO. appearance, and tlie Streets, though not so good, in comparison, are yet superior to those of most Oriental Towns. Behind is a lofty Hill, the prospect from which is certainly one of the most beautiful in Pales- tine, taking in the snowy peak of Hermon, the rounded summit of Tabor, the long dark ridge of Carmel, and the white strand of the Mediterranean beyond the plain of Acre, with the great battle-field of nations — the Plain of Esdraelon, spreading out upon the South. Hence also are seen in beautiful effect the verdant corn-fields, gardens enclosed with cactus-hedges, olives sprinkled in clumps, or singly, and streaks of fig-trees, wild shrubs, and other foliage, lying round the Town. The Latin Convent stands on a spm- of the hill, projecting into the green plain. It is a square of heavy buildings, encompassed by a high wall. On entering we are struck with its solemn appearance. A great part of the walls inside the Convent are covered with canvas hangings, painted in imitation of tapestry with appropriate Scripture Scenes. The Holy Grotto in the Church of the Annun- ciation is under the Choir, which is raised eight or ten feet above the floor. Here jNIass is celebrated by the Monks. At the entrance of this Grotto is a Marble Slab with a Cross in the centre, to mark the place where the Virgin stood during the Annun- ciation.* . This is surmounted by a fine Marble Altar. Joseph's wokkshop — synagogue. 293 Close by is a broken Pillar, which the Friars formerly affected to believe was miraculously suspended in the air, because there is a clear space of eighteen inches between it and the pedestal, though it is manifestly connected with the roof But, in deference to the spirit of the times, this is no longer advanced. Behind the Cross is a little Nook, from which the Angel is said to have issued. The whole Sanctum and Vestibule are encased in marble and hung with beautiful silver Lamps. Over the Altar is a good modern painting of the Annunciation, presented by the Emperor of Austria. A little door opens into the back of this Grotto, which has been left in its original rough and irregular state. Here is another Altar back to back with the former, and a fair painting of the "Flight into Egypt." From this a narrow rock-hewn Staircase leads up to the " Virgin Mary's Kitchen," a low Cave, in which the Fire-place, Chimney, and other details, are still pointed out ! Joseph's Wokkshop.— To the North- West of the Convent is a small Church, built over " Joseph's Workshop" (!) An old "Wall of the Original Shop" is shewn. Above the Altar is a picture, presented by a noble lady, whose name and arms appear on it, representing the Carpenter at work, assisted by Jesus, a comparative youth. The Synagogue, — To the West of " Joseph's Worjishop" there is a. small arched building, which 294 FOUNTAIN OF THE VIRGIN. the Guides say is the Synagogue where Christ applied to Himself the language of Isaiah, upon which the Jews were so exasperated that they sought to cast Him over the hrow of the hill above the Maronite Church. They further state, that the manner in which Jesus avoided this was to leap down of His own accord; and the frightful precipice shewn is called Saltus Domini, — " The Lord's Leap." This tra- dition is far more probable than that of the Monks already alluded to under the head of " The Mount of Precipitation." The Fountain of the Virgin. — The Greeks have a rival " Church of the Annunciation," in Nazareth, constructed near a WeU at the opposite side of the Town. In the Apocryphal Gospel which bears the name of St. James, it is stated that the first Saluta- tion of the Angel came to Maiy as she was drawing water from the Spring in the neighbourhood of the Town. That Spring still remains, and bears her name. In fact there are two springs, one outside, and another under the Altar within the Church. The edifice is very plain and gloomy, and is tricked out with the characteristic tasteless finery of the Greeks. The Population, as estimated by Dr. Eobinson, numbers 1,040 Greeks, 520 Greek Catholics, 480 Latins, 400 Maronites, and 680 Muslems, being a total of 3,120; but others state the total at 4,000. WOMEN OF NAZAKETH. 295 The Christians here have an air of sturdy indepen- dence that pleases the Western traveller, shewing that, if not " lords of the soil," they are at least at home. They are better dressed, fed, and mannered, than any we had met, not excepting those of Jeru- salem. The following encomium is passed upon the female part of the population by a recent tra- veller : — " The women are famed, and | justly too, for their beauty. If we go out and sit for an hour of an evening by the little Fountain, we will see many a face which Eaphael might have chosen as a study when about to paint his Madona della Seggiola, and many a figure that Phidias might have selected as a model for Venus. Their style of dress and orna- ment will also attract attention; — the capacious Shintian, the close-fitting jacket, and the long-pointed white veil; — then the curious strings of large silver coins round the head and chin, reminding one of the massive chain of a dragoon's helmet. The Fountain here is the place for gossip and flirtation ; and the young damsels of Nazareth, as they gracefully poise the pitcher of water on head or shoulder, are just as ready to give drink to a well-conditioned stranger or to give ear to a proposal of marriage, as Eebecca was at the Fountain of Mesopotamia nearly 4,000 years ago." TABOR Having a long ride before us, we were on the 296 TABOR — ALTITUDE — ASCENT. saddle at seven o'clock in the morning, and in two hours reached Tabor. The Mountain stands out almost isolated on the South-Eastern frontier of the Hills of Galilee, with the great Plain of Es- draelon sweeping its base. Its graceful outline, wooded slopes, and grassy glades, made it the object of universal admiration. Its beauty was proverbial, — "As Tabor is among the Mountains and Carmel by the Sea." (Jer. xlvi. 18.) Its lieight has been variously estimated at 1,000, 1,500, and 2,000 feet ; but Mr. Stephens, who ascended it in 1836, declares its extreme elevation to be nearly 3,000 feet. In addition to the groves and clumps of trees which adorn its sides, it is beautifully enamelled, from its base to its summit, with every variety of plant and flower. At the foot of the Mountain is the miserable Vil- lage of Deborah, supposed to be the place where Deborah, the Prophetess, who judged Israel, and Barak and " ten thousand men after him, descended upon Sisera, and discomfited him and all his chariots, even nine hundred chariots of iron, and aU the people that were with him." The Ascext. — After three-quarters of an hour of steep climbing, we gained the summit. The path winding round the Mountain gave us a \dew from all its sides, every step presenting something new, and more and more beautiful, until all was forgotten PROSPECT — RUINS OF A CITY. 297 in the exceeding loveliness of the view from its elevated crown. Standing at its foot, the Mountain appears to terminate in an inaccessible point ; but, on arriving at the top, the surprise is agreeable to find an oval plain about a mile in circimiference, covered on the West with a bed of fertile soil, and exhibiting on the East a mass of interesting Eiiins. From this elevated platform the hills and valleys extending as far as Jerusalem, — a distance of fifty miles, come into view. To the East the Valley of Jordan and the Lake of Tiberias, stretch out, the latter appearing as if inclosed mthin the crater of a volcano. On the North- West, in the distance, is the broad expanse of the Mediterranean. A few points to the North, appears the Mount of Beatitudes ; while due North is a fine panoramic "\dew of the Plains of Esdraelon and Galilee, skirted in the back- ground by a chain of Mountains which sweep round and terminate the view on the Sea. Pococke, Van Egmont, Maundrell, Stephens, and HejTuan, aU speak of Tabor as the most beautiful Mountain they ever saw, and that which, of all others, best recompenses the toil of ascending. The Emxs. — If tradition be true, this was the "High Mountain" into which "Jesus took Peter, and James, and John, and was transfigured before them," so that " His face did shine as the sun, and His raiment was white as the light; and a voice out 298 GROTTO OF THE TRANSFIGUKATION. of the cloud " was heard, saying, " This is My beloved Son, in whom I am well pleased." In honour of that scene a Grotto is built, as Peter proposed, with three Altars, one for Christ, one for Moses, and one for EHas. To this, once a year, the Monks of the Convent and all the Christians of Nazareth, ascend in solemn procession. The Greeks have recently built a magnificent Church here. There are also Euins of an old Wall built by Josephus when he was Governor of Galilee, and this strong position was occupied in earlier times as the Key of Esdraelon. The summit of Tabor appears to have been covered by a Town as early as the time of Joshua. (Jos. xix. 22.) It is said Helena built a magnificent Cathedral here, and made Mount Tabor an Episcopal See; for in her days the Town was yet upon the heights. There are several rock-hewn Cisterns among the Euins, in one or other of which good water is always to be found. And on the side of the hill the Monks shew a Church in a Grot, wliere they say Christ charged His disciples not to tell what things they had seen in the Transfiguration till He was glorified. TIBEEIAS. Erom Tabor to Tiberias is a journey of five hours, so that after a good day's riding — nine hours from the time of leaving Nazareth, we arrived at our destina- TIBERIAS — EARTHQUAKE — ETC. 299 tion. This was quite a modern Town when our Lord frequented this region, having been built and named by Herod about the time of His advent. Seventy years afterwards Josephus found it an important place, and no other in Galilee is so often mentioned by him. Almost every other city was destroyed by Vespasian and Titus, but this was spared, and, as a reward for its adherence to the Eomans, made the Capital of the Province. These facts explain the circumstance that Tiberias is mentioned only by John, who alone wrote after these events. The present Town, which was much shattered by an Earthquake, in 1837, is upon the ancient site close to the waters of the Lake. It is of a rectangular form, surrounded by a waU with towers distributed at intervals; but the whole is now in a dilapidated state. In some places it is not difficult to ride over the ruins, while in others the shocks of the Earthquake have left such breaches as would have been produced by a battery of siege-guns. There are here a little Latin Convent inhabited by a solitary Italian Monk, and a Church connected with it, which tradition places upon the site where the Miraculous Draught of Eishes was landed ! There are few towns in Syria so utterly filthy as Tiberias, and so little to be desired as a place of residence. Being six hundred feet below the level of the ocean, and overhung on the West by a higli mountain, which effectually shuts off the Medi- 300 LAKE OF GENNESARETH. terranean breezes, it is fearfully hot in summer. And yet the population number about 2000, of whom 800 are poor Jews, w^ho look even more squalid and sickly than those in other towns of Palestine. The Jews occupy a little " Quarter " of their own in the middle of the city, where they have several Syna- gogues and Schools, and keep up some smattering of Eabbinical lore. THE SEA OF GALILEE. The noble expanse of water, variously called the " Lake of Tiberias," " Cinnereth," or " Gennesareth," and the " Sea of Galilee," laves the Eastern coast of Lower Galilee. It is an irregular oval, with the large end to the North, about fourteen miles long, and from six to nine in breadth. In the words of Dr. Thompson, " Seen from any point of the surrounding heights it is a fine sheet of water — a burnished mirror set in a framework of rounded hills and rugged mountains, which rise and roll backward and upward to where Hermon hangs the picture against the blue vault of heaven." By these hills the Lake is in a great measure protected from storms, so that its sur- face is usually as smooth as that of the Dead Sea. We refreshed ourselves by batldng in the waters of this Sacred Lake. It is, however, in some seasons, visited by squalls, whirlwinds, and sudden gusts from, the mountains, especially when thie strong current SCENE OF OUR LORD's MINISTRY. 301 created by tlie passage of the Jordan through it, is opposed by a South-Easterly wind. Its surface is then lashed into \'iolent commotion, and, owing to the suddenness and fitful variableness of these squalls, the small craft, formerly used for fishing, were often simk. It was in such a storm that the Disciples of Jesus awoke Him, when " He arose and rebuked the winds" so that immediately "there was a great calm." (Matt. viii. 24 — 26.) The boats which once crowded this Sea disappeared when the Arabians conquered the country ; and at present there is but one which is used for the convenience of Travellers. Almost every spot along the shores of the Sea of Galilee is sacred, since a great portion of our Lord's public ministry \vas spent there ; but since then, every thing save the broad outline of nature is completely changed. Then they teemed with life and activity, having many flourishing ToAvns such as Magdala, Capernaum, Chorazin, the two Bethsaidas, Gamala, Hippos and Tarichoea; and other large Cities as ScythopoHs, Gadara and Pella, with innumerable Villages, studding the surrounding country. In Chorazin, Capernaum, and Bethsaida, the Sa\4our wrought many of His mighty works, and, probably standing on the beach of Gennesareth, He denounced those Cities. (Matt. xi. 21.) So irreparable and complete is their ruin that the Sites can with difficulty be recognised. . Most of the Towns 302 POPULOUSNESS OF GALILEE. flourishing in the days of our Lord are now extinct, and mounds of black Euins alone remain to attest the places where they stood. So crowded were the Streets of Capernaum in those days that those who brought a sick man to Jesus were obliged to open up the flat roof and let him down. (Mar. ii. 1 — 12). So closely pressed by the multitude was He when upon the shore that He was forced to enter a boat. (Matt. xiii. 1, 2.) So numerous were His followers that thousands were fed by Him in a miraculous manner. Preaching to the Fishermen of that district He compared the " Kingdom of Heaven" to a " Net;" addressing the people engaged in Com- merce, His image was that of a " Merchantman seeking Goodly Pearls ;" while to the Agriculturalists He spoke of "a Man which sowed Good Seed in the Field." (Matt. xiii. 24—48.) Thus the people in these coasts who " sat in darkness saw great light." From these the Apostles of Christ were chosen, and the Membership of the Infant Church came from the region of Galilee. But if the Sea of Gennesareth is sacred to the Christian from such circumstances as these, it is also sacred to the Jew, but for a reason of a fanciful kind. The Kabbins have a notion that Messiah is yet to rise out of its waters, land in Tiberias and establish His Throne at Safed ! I cannot close these remarks without quoting the beautiful lines of the sainted M'Cheyne : — MOUNT OF BEATITUDES. 303 " How pleasant to me thy deep bhie wave Sea of Galilee ! For the glorious One who came to save Hath often stood by thee. " Fair are the lakes in the land I love, Where pine and heather grow, But thou hast loveUness above What nature can bestow. " It is not that the wild gazelle Comes down to drink thy tide, But He that was pierced to save from hell Oft wandered by thy side. " Graceful around thee the mountains meet, Thou calm reposing sea ; But ah ! far more, the beautiful feet Of Jesus walked o'er thee. " Those days are past — Bethsaida, where ? Chorazin, where art thou ? His tent the wild Arab pitches there, The wild reed shades thy brow. *' Tell me ye mouldering fragments, tell. Was the Saviour's city here ? Lifted to heaven, has it sunk to hell. With none to shed a tear ? " Saviour ! gone to God's right hand, Yet the same Saviour still. Graved on Thy heart is this lovely strand. And every fragrant hill." TIBERIAS TO CAEMEL. The Mount of Beatitudes.— Leaving Gennesaretli 304 CANA OF GALILEE. we soon enter tlie Plain, from wliicli a Hill rises to« an elevation of from 200 to 300 feet. This is sup- posed to have been the "Mount" from which our Lord delivered that sublime Discourse recorded in the fifth, sixth, and seventh chapters of ^Matthew's Gos- pel. Hence it is called the " Moimt of Beatitudes." In the Plain at the foot of this hill it is also assimied that Jesus fed the multitude vnth. a few loaves and fishes. Cana of Galilee. — About noon we reached Cana of Galilee, so called to distinguish it from another Cana or Kanah, not far from Sidon, in the tribe of Asher. (Jos. xix. 28.) It rests on a gentle eminence in the midst of a fine valley, and in its position agrees with the language employed by the Evangelist, and shows the geographical accuracy of the "Writer. This was the birth-place of Nathanael. Here also the first Christian Marriage was solemnised, Jesus and His Disciples being amongst the Guests, upon wliich memorable occasion — " The modest water saw its Lord and blushed." The present Village is in a half-ruined condition. Some of the Olives in its neighbourhood are so ancient as, probably, to have witnessed the Miracle which has rendered this place so famous. The inhabitants of Cana are Greek Christians principally, if not exclusively. BETHLEHEM OF ZEBULUN — KISHON. 305 About eight miles to tlie South lay Nazareth, which we reached at three in the afternoon, and revived our sympathies by rambling once more through the scenes of the most hallowed association. Here we remained over the night, and then bade the dear place a last farewell. Bethlehem of Zebulun. — After passing Yaphia [not Yafa] on the left, we sighted Bcit-Lahm, which is situated in the midst of an Oak-Eorest. Though now but a miserable Hamlet, consisting of a few hovels, it marks the site of Bethlehem, which was once a city of the Canaanites. (Jos. xix. 15.) It is called Beth- lehem of Zebulun to distinguish it from its more important namesake in the tribe of Judah. The Brook Klshon. — About noon we came to the river Kishon, now styled El Muhutta or " The Ford," before crossing which we dismounted to take some refreshment. One of our Muleteers became sud- denly ill and appeared likely to die, but happily revived. This was the Brook at which Elijah slew all the Prophets of Baal. (1 Kings xviii. 40.) Our confidence was in Elijah's God. On our noble steeds, — spirited yet docile animals, which for eleven days in succession had carried us like Zebras over rugged cloud-capped mountains as well as plains, were now belly-deep in mud and water, bearing us through the Brook. Charming creatures! Never do I expect to see the like again ! X 306 '-'THE EXCELLENCY OF CARMEL." CARMEL. Our way now lay along the base of Carmel, which is a ridge of Mountains rather than a single peak. The name signifies " The Park" or " Fruitful Field/' and its wooded heights and picturesque green dells, descending on one side into the fertile Plain of Acre, and in the other to the no less fertile " Vale of Dor," give propriety to the apellative. The Copse — for so small and stunted are the trees that it scarcely deserves the name of a Wood, chiefly consists of the Prickly- Oak. This is an evergreen, and so the " Excellency of Carmel" was a type of the prosperity. The "wither- ing " of its foliage, as in its present diminished luxu- riance, represents the desolation of Israel. (Isa. XXXV. 2 ; Am. i. 2.) The Eidge branches off from the Northern end of the Mountains of Samaria, runs in a North-Westerly direction between the Plains of Phoenicia and Sharon, and projects far into the sea, forming a bold Promontory at the Bay of Acre. Its length is about 1 8 miles, its breadth nearly 5, and its greatest elevation is 1750 feet. Those who visit Carmel in the Spring of the year agree that it is a delio'htful region, and describe with enthusiasm the profusion of hyacinths, jonquilles, tazettos, anemones, and other odoriferous plants and flowers, and the varied foliage of the olives, laurels, pines and oaks, which adorn its sides. It aboimds also with game, as partridges, hares, quails, and woodcock ; and is said to CAVERNS — CARMELITE CONVENT. 307 be infested with jackalls, wolves, wild-bears, hyaenas, and leopards. The Caves. — The Mountain is compact limestone, and, as often happens in that formation, tliere are many Caverns. Here, it is said, are more than a thousand. In one tract, called the "Monks' Caverns," there are as many as four hundred adjacent to each other, with wdndows and dormitories hewn in the rock. The entrances of many of these Caves are so narrow that only a single individual can creep into them ; and so crooked that a person is imme- diately out of sight unless closely followed. This may serve to give a clearer idea of what is in- tended when the Lord says to those who endeavour to escape His punishments : "Though they hide themselves in the top of Carmel, I will search and take them out thence." (Am. ix. 3.) These Grottos and Caves were resorts of Elijah and Elisha. (1 Kings xviii. 19; 2 Kings ii. 25; iv. 25.) Possibly it was in the Caves of Carmel that Obadiah hid and sustained a himdred Prophets of the Lord, during the Jezebelian persecution. (1 Kings xviii. 4; Com, ver. 13.) At the present day is shewn a Cavern called "The Cave of Elijah," a little below the "Monks' Caverns" already mentioned, and which is now a Muslem sanctuar}'. The Convent. — Upon the crown of the ridge is the Carmelite Convent, one of the sweetest retreats, 308 GROTTO OF ELISHA — HANNA HABESH. one of the most luxurious resting-places for the weary traveller in Palestine. The House would not disgrace Eoyalty. The Monks are eminently hospitable ; and the air is cool and refreshing, for the Convent stands upon the promontory hanging over the Mediterranean. It consists of a large block of buildings with several tiers of windows all round, and a handsome cupola springing from the centre. In front is a little terraced garden with a pyramidal Monument, placed there to the memory of some French sailors. The old Convent was destroyed by Abdallah Pasha, who converted the materials to his own use ; the present Structure was built by the aid of Contributions collected in Europe. The Church in the centre is a fine Eotunda with a large recess at the East-end for the Altar, directly over the Cave where Elijah is said to have concealed him- self during the persecution, and near to the Grotto of Elisha. The Carmelite Monks date their Order from Elijah, who they say, "left to Elisha not only his Mantle but his Grotto also ; that the Sons of the Prophets succeeded Elisha, and that St. John was the successor of these." Arrived at this most comfortable Eetreat we had to part with our Dragoman and Suite. Though a Eomanist, we found Hanna Habesh, as far as we could judge, a sincere Christian. His care and attention to us during the whole of our perilous excursions, were so constant that I felt much at parting with hiiii. After Elijah's altar — pythagoras. 309 paying him his well-earned wages, and presenting him with our English saddles, we took an affectionate leave, invoking the Divine blessing upon him as the inheritance of his life. Then I reflected with grati- tude upon all the way by which God had led us in the Wilderness and in the Land of Promise, defending us from all evil, and filling our hearts with gladness. Elijah's Altae. — Carmel derives its chief interest from having been the scene of one of the most glorious passages in the Old Testament history — the well kno"\^ai defeat of the Prophets of Baal, in presence of Ahab and the people of Israel, by the descent of celestial fire upon the Sacrifice of Elijah. There is a certain part of the Mountain, about eiglit miles from the point of the Promontory, wdiich the Arabs call Mansur, and the Europeans " The Place of Sacrifice," in commemoration of that miraculous event. Having parted with our horses we did not visit this place. It is said that Pythagoras passed some time in solitary meditation upon this spot. Erom tlie promontory he descended, entered an Egyptian Vessel which lay in the Bay, and sailed to the land of the Pharaohs, where he drank deep into the hieroglyphical lore of that ancient nation. In travelling through Palestine I was reminded of the assurance given to Israel in Egypt, that the Land of Promise was " A good land, a land of brooks of 310 ANCIENT FRUITFULNESS OF CANAAN. water, of fountains and depths that spring otit of valleys and hills ; a land of wheat, and barley, and vines, and fig-trees, and pomegranates ; a land of oil- oKve and honey." (Deu. \dii. 7, 8.) In the crevices of the rocks bees fix their nests, whence the honey literally flows down their sides, giving propriety to the characteristic, " a land flowing with honey." (See Deu. xxxii. 13 ; Psa. Ixxxi. 16 ; 1 Sam. xiv. 25.) The words in Psa.xix. 10, and elsewhere, translated "honey- comb," literally mean droppings, viz., from the comb, which are alw^ays considered the sweetest of the honey. In allusion to this, the blessings of grace are frequently called the " droppings of the Sanctuary." If properly cultivated the lands would now produce plentiful crops of wheat, barley, millet, grapes, and everything for which they were anciently famous. Vegetation languishes, not because of any barrenness in the soil or imperfection in the climate, but through the barbarous rule of the Turks ! Nothing is more common than the Kuins of Walls which the ancient cultivators had built to support the soil in Terraces on the declivities of mountains; or of Tanks and little Canals by which the rain-water was collected and distributed over the fields. There is no reason to doul)t that well directed labour might reproduce a Paradise. The desolation we see has also been pre- dicted about eight hundred years before the destruc- tion of Jerusalem by Titus. In the Prophetic style PRESENT DESOLATION JUDICIAL. 311 which realises the future in the vividness of a present vision, Isaiah says : " Your country is deso- late, your cities are burned with fire : your land, strangers devour it in your presence, and it is desolate as overthrown by strangers/' This melancholy state of things he traces directly to the rebelliousness and iniquity of the people. (Isa. i., ii., iii.) CHAPTER IX. SYRIA AND THE MEDITERRANEAN. HHAIFA. Aftee remunerating the CarmeKtes for two days' hospitality, we left for Hhaifa, there to await the arrival of the Austrian Steamer for Beyrout. This is a small Port of the ISIediterranean. The Town is built close upon the beach, and surrounded by a rickety wall. The Population is about 200. The only tolerable houses are those of the Consular Agents, who abound here, though one is at a loss to know why. There are two or three rusty old pieces of ordnance lying about, covered with filth, and half- buried in rubbish. The Bay is very fine, spreading out from a graceful sandy beach, the battlements of Acre appearing towards the horizon on the North. A solitary Vessel may occasionally be seen at anchor in the Eoadstead; and, at intervals of fifteen days, the Port is visited by the Austrian Packet by which we hoped to sail. The Embarkation. — Expecting to remain aU night at Hhaifa, and there being no decent Hotels in the place, by the advice of our Consul, we repaired to the Greek Convent. Scarcely had we been ten minutes EMBARKATION OFF HHAIFA — ACRE. 31 3 in bed, however, than we were rajjped up, and apprised in a loud voice that the Steamer had arrived. With all speed we were upon the beach, but had to wait there some time. At length a small boat drew to the Shore to float us to the Steamer. The night was pitch dark, and there was a hea^y swell on the sea. Our little bark was crammed with passengers. In these frightful circumstances we were tossed between the winds and waves for half-an-hoiir, and at length, through the good providence of God, we arrived on board the Austrian. He who " holds the -winds in His fists, and the waters in the hollow of His hand," restrained the deep from swallowing us. In the passage from Hhaifa in the boat I was very sick ; but on board the Packet I immediately went to my berth and slept until morning. ACEE. The first place of importance which we passed upon the Phcenician shore was Acre, a Town and Haven within the nominal territory of the Tribe of Asher. (Jud. i. 31.) In the Septuagint it is called Accho; the Greek and Eoman writers style it Ace; but it was eventually better known by the name of Ftolcmais, which it received from the first Ptolemy, King of Egypt, by whom it was much improved. By this latter name it is mentioned in the Acts as a place at which Paul touched, on his way to Jerusalem. (Acts 314 SIEGES OF ACRE — TYRE. xxi. 7.) The Town occupies the North- Western point of a commodious Bay called the Bay of Acre, the opposite, or South-Western point of which is formed by the Promontory of Mount Carmel. In the time of Strabo, Accho was a great City, and continued a place of importance until the Turks gained possession of it, from which time it rapidly declined. Buonaparte, in the early part of his career, besieged this place, l)ut was compelled to raise the siege by the gallant defence of the English, who, under Sir Sidney Smith, successfully resisted twelve assaid.ts. After that, the Fortifications were further strengthened, and it became the strongest place in Syria. In 1832 the Town was Ijesieged for nearly six months by Ibraham Pasha, (luring which 35,000 shells were thrown into it, and the buildings were literally beaten to pieces. It had not recovered from this calamity when it was sub- jected to the operations of the English Fleet under Admiral Stopford, in pursuance of the plan for restor- ing Syria to the Porte. On the 3rd of November, 1 840, it was bombarded for several hours, when the explo- sion of a powder-magazine destroyed the Garrison and laid the Town in ruins. TYEE. The next important place w^e passed in our voyage was Tyre, which is thirty-two miles North of Acre, and was one of the most celebrated Cities of anti- REMINISCENCES OF TYRE. 315 quit}' for wealth, strength, population, and commerce. According to Josephus, it was fomided by a colony of Sidonians, 240 years before the erection of Solo- mon's Temple, or about 1250 years before the Chris- tian era. But this must be a mistake, since Joshua, defining the territory allotted to the Tribe of Asher, speaks of Tyre as a " Strong City." (Jos. xix. 29.) Such was once the strength of this place, that Nebuchadnezzar, the greatest Conqueror of his time, was detained thirteen years in the Siege before he could gain possession. At length, the City was taken by assault and utterly destroyed, verifying in the most remarkable manner, the prophecy of Isaiah. (Isa. xxiii. 1.) The Tyrians, however, had removed with their property to an Island which lay opposite to the City, about half a mile from the shore. After seventy years they built a new City on the Island, near the site of the former, of which nothing remained but a small village amongst the ruins, called Old T}Te. The new city, — Insular Tyre, in course of a few years, rivalled its predecessor, and for a period of two hundred years continued to monopolise the Commerce of the East. It was so strong, that to reduce it cost the powerful army of Alexander seven months of incredible labour. To surmount the ob- stacle presented by its insular position, he had to construct an artifical Isthmus, or Causeway, from the Continent to the Island. This he accomplished by olG REMARKABLE FULFILMENT OF PROPHECY. means of Timber brought from Lebanon, and by throwing the rubbish and ruins of the Old City into the sea. Like the sites of Nineveh and Babylon, that of Continental Tyre, cannot now be accurately recognised. The New City also gradually declined after the building of Alexandria, which, from its superior local advantages, drew away fi"om T}Te her vast trade with India. Its do"^TifaIl was accelerated by assaults of the Ptolemies of Egypt, and the Seleucidse of Syria; after which it fell into the hands of the Eomans, then of the Saracens, Cru- saders, and Mamelukes, who nearly rased it to the ground; and finally it came under the rule of the Turks. The prophecies have been verified to the letter in relation to this once proud City, which is now as Ezekiel describes it, a mere Fishing Village, — " a place for the spreading of nets." (Eze. xxvi. 5.) Lamartine \asited it in 1832, and says, "T}Te, at present called Sour by the Arabs, appears to rise from the waves themselves. At a distance you would call it a handsome, new, white, and lively Town, looking on the sea ; but it is only a beautiful shadow which vanishes on dra-s\Thig near. A few hundred crumbling, and almost deserted, houses, in which the Arabs coUect at evening, the large flocks of sheep and black goats, with long hanging ears, which defile before you in the plain. Such is the EEFLECTIONS OF M. LAMARTINE. 317 T}Te of to-day ! She has no longer the Harbour in the seas, or a Eoad on the land. The prophecies are long ago accomplished in her. We journeyed in silence, occupied in contemplating this ^vreck and dust of Empire, which we trampled I thought on the prophecies, but saw neither Eagles nor Vultures, Avhich ought, in order to fid-fil them, to descend instantly from the mountains to devour this Corpse of a Town, reproved by God and the enemy of His people. At the moment I was making this reflection, some large, strange, and motionless object appeared on our left on the top of a perpen- dicular rock, which advanced into the plain, even to the route of the Caravans. When we were only fifty steps from the rock, we saw one of these objects expand his wide wings, and flap them against his sides with a noise like that of a sail set to the wind. We distinguished them as five Eagles of the largest kind I had ever seen. It required an efibrt of my reason not to behold behind them the lofty and terrible figure of the Poet of Vengeance, Ezekiel, rising above them, and pointing out to them with his eye and finger the City which God gave them to devour, whilst the storm of Divine anger shook his sno^vy streaming beard, and the fire of celestial wrath shot from his eyes." 318 SIDON — REMINISCENCES. SIDOK About twenty-five miles North of Tyre is Sidon, or Zidon, which, like Tyre, was appointed to the Tribe of Asher, but they never took possession of it. (Jud. i. 31.) According to tradition it was the second city built after the Flood, and is supposed to have been founded by Sidon, the son of Canaan and great- grandson of Noah. For a long time it was a place of great architectural beauty and commercial impor- tance; and the Sidonians are even said to have introduced the knowledge of Alphabetical Writing into Greece. They were the first manufacturers of Glass, and the earliest Shipwrights ; and Sidonian workmen were employed by Solomon to hew and carve the wood for the Temple, and also to construct and navigate his Ships. Sidon, under her own Kings, enjoyed a high degree of opulence and commercial prosperity ; though sometimes tributary to the Kings of Tyre. It was taken by Nebuchadnezzar, who, however, consented to receive the submission of this people, and permitted them to retain their own Monarchs. Entering afterwards into league with Nectanebus, King of Egypt, against Darius Ochus, King of Persia, the latter laid siege to tlie City. Finding resistance useless they set fire to their ships and the City, in which so large a quantity of gold and silver was melted down by the fire that Ochus sold the ashes for a considerable sum of money. LANDING AT BEYEOUT. 3l9 Sidou, however, was soon rebuilt, as, about eighteen years after, we find it submitting to Alexander. It subsequently shared the fate of the rest of Phcenicia, being alternately oppressed by the KLings of Syria and Egypt, while its extensive and lucrative Trade was diverted to Alexandria. After the subversion of the Grecian Empire, Sidon fell into the hands of the Eomans, who deprived it of freedom. Many of the Sidonians were converted by the preaching of Christ, (Mar. iii. 8.) Paul touched here in his voyage to Eome. (Acts xxvii. 3.) After the breaking up of the Eoman Empire, Sidon fell successively under the Saracens, Seljidiian Turks, and the Sultans of Egypt, who, in 1289, that they might never again afford shel- ter to Christians, destroyed both it and Tyre. But it revived, and has since remained in the hands of the Ottoman Turks. Sidon, called Saicle, has a popula- tion of about 5,000, and was the chief mart for Damascus and Upper Syria, until superseded by Beyrout. The harbour is nearly choked with sand. Broken columns and fragments of edifices, — relics of its eclipsed and departed grandeur, are yet dis- coverable without the walls. BEYEOUT. After a seven hours sail, we landed at Beyrout on Sunday Morning, enjoyed- a Sabbath's rest, and on the morning following started for Lebanon and 320 PICTURESQUE SITUATION OF BEYROUT. Damascus ; but in returniug we remained here a week. Beyrout is supposed to be the " Berothai " or "Berothath" mentioned in Scripture. (2 Sam. viii. 8; Eze. xlvii. 16.) It is beautifully situated, especially as viewed from the Sea. The Promontory on which it stands is triangular, the apex projecting some three miles into the Mediterranean, and the base running along the foot of Lebanon. The South-Western side is wholly composed of loose drifting sand, and has all the appearance of a Desert. The shore-line on the North-Western side is formed of a range of deeply- indented rocks and cliffs, worn by the waves into a thousand fantastic forms ; — ^liere gloomy caverns, into which the waters surge wuth a roar as of distant thunder; there jagged isolated rocks and bold pre- cipices around which the white surf plays like a thing of life, sending up showers of spray whose globules and streamers like diamonds sparkle in the sun-shine. Behind these rocks the ground rises gradually for a mile or more, where it attains a height of 200 feet. In the middle of the shore-line stands the City — first a dense nucleus of buHdings surroimded by an old tottering wall; then a broad nebula of picturesque viUas, embowered in rich foliage, running up towards the heights of Lebanon, and extending far to the right and left. Beyond these are mulberry groves covering the acclivities and variegated by FILTH OF THE STREETS. 321 graceful palms and dark cypresses interspersed. The view commanded by the higher houses is magnificent, embracing the Bay of St. George ; tlie indented Coast, retiring promontory on promontory, tiU lost in the distance ; and the noble Eidge of Lebanon, witli its wild glens, dark pine-forests, clustering villages, cas- tellated convents, and snow-capped peaks sleeping in the clouds. The Town. — The old Town -stands so near the beach as, during the prevalence of the Northerly gales, to get more of the sea-water than is agreeable. The Streets are narrow, dirty, badly paved, and so steep and tortuous that the merchandise landed at the Port has to be carried off on the backs of men. The Houses are of stone, substantially built ; and a few of the Villas in the suburbs have some pretensions to architectural taste. The narrow lanes that pass through the gardens from one villa to another, seem to have been constructed after the models of the streets, as irregular, circuitous, and inconvenient as possible. They form a complete labpinth, Avhich a stranger tries in vain to thread. In Suminer they are filled knee-deep with sand, and shut in by taU hedges of prickly-pear, excluding every breath of air, 50 that in passing through them one feels as if Avall^- ing amid the ashes of a half-extinct furnace. In Winter every lane becomes a torrent-bed, sometimes almost impassable to man, and even dangerous to Y 322 PORT OF BEYROUT. quadrupeds. Yet througli these the Merchants plod day after day from their trim Villas to their Counting- houses in the City, equipped as for an aquatic excursion. " It is amusing," says an eye-witness, " to see them, here taking a flying leap over a gulf, there making a desperate plunge, while- yonder a kind of ferry is established over a little lake, at which half-a- dozen ferry-men fight, the passenger the while grasp- ing the neck and 'brawny shoulders of one, and keeping the rest at bay with the point of his imibrella." In time Beyrout may have the luxury of streets and roads ; but until they are formed, it is folly to talk of wheeled conveyances. The Walls of the Town were never strong, and at present serve only to interrupt traffic, for which beneficent reason the Turks seem inclined to preserve them ! The Port is small but crowded ; it lies between a projecting Cliff and an insulated Tower, now in ruins, called Burj Fanzar, which bears, like the rest of the Fortifications, many a mark of British projectiles. The little Quay is full of bustle. Though Beyrout ranks only as a third-rate town in Syria, it is deci- dedly the most prosperous. The Warehouses, Offices, and suburban Villas, of the European Merchants give the place a Western air, and the wealth and activity of foreign enterprise seem to have infused vitality into the natives. The principal article of export is raw-silk ; and the trade in this is ever increasing. TKADE — POPULATION, ETC. 323 Lebanon is gradually becoming one vast Mulberry- Plantation, to meet tlie growing demand for silk- worms. The Mulberry-groves surrounding Beyrout are rich and highly ornamental. Vines are so trained from tree to tree, as to form beautiful festoons, laden with clusters of grapes. The importance of this Port is recognised in the residence of the Consular- General of Syria, and a Vice-Consul. In addition to the Austrian lines, there are also French packets constantly running in here ; and once a month, there is likewise an English screw steamer direct from Liverpool. Population, &c. — The Population of Beyrout is now estimated at 45,000. One-third of these are Muslems, and the rest Christians and Jews. The American Presbyterians have a Mission here, and conduct a public Eeligious Service in their Chapel at half-past ten on the Sunday Mornings. Since the establishment of this Mission, now nearly a quarter of a century ago. Education has been stimulated. Their Schools have created a taste for letters, and the Press conducted under their guidance has done much to foster and improve it. They publish not only excellent Eeligious Books, but also good Elementary Treatises in the various branches of Science and Art. LEBANON. Li passing from Be}TOut to Damascus we cross 324 FEEXCH ROAD OYHn LEBANON. over a shoulder of the famous Mountains of Lebanon, so frequently mentioned in the Sacred Writings as an emblem of " Majesty " and " Strength." The Eoad over which we went was constructed at considerable cost by the French, and is traversed every alternate day by an Omnibus which is so arranged as to ac- commodate First, Second, and Third-Class Passengers. We found the privilege of travelling once more upon a wheeled conveyance a very agreeable change. The Omnibus was drawn by five horses, but the steeps of the mountain were such, tliat it consumed about nine houi's before we were over the shoulder and at the base on the other side. Lebanon is not an isolated Mountain, but rather a long Eange, extending from the neighbourhood of Sidon on the West, to the vicinity of Damascus Eastward ; and forming the extreme Northern boimd- ary of the Holy Land. It is the centre, or nucleus, of the Eidges running North, South, and East, and overtops them all, its summits being capped with clouds and tipj)ed mth snow. This magnificent rampart seems to enclose the country. From its highest point, distinguished by the name of Sannin, the immensity of space becomes a fresh subject of admiration. On every side the horizon seems without bounds ; the sight being lost over the Desert which extends to the Persian Gulf, and over the sea which washes the coasts of Europe. Surveying chains of CULTIVATED TERRACES — CEDARS. 325 mountains the mind is instantly transported from Antioch to Jerusalem, and is filled with fresh delight as the thunder growls heneath. On the sides of the mountain, stones, detached by the waters, rise like artificial ruins. By thaws and earthquakes these rocks have been known to lose their equilibrium, roll down on the neighbouring houses, and bury the inhabitants. About twenty years before Volney's visit, a whole Village was overwhelmed by a fragment of the mountain slipping from its base, and he notes that more recently an entire hill-side, covered with mulberries and "vines, was detached by a sudden thaw, and launched like a ship from the stocks into the valley below. By cultivated terraces all these moun- tains have the appearance of amphitheatres, every step of which is a row of vines or mulberries ; in some instances the gradations on the same acclivity being from a hundred to a hundred and twenty. The valleys which separate them are also extremely fertile, producing corn, wine, and oil, in great abundance. The Cedars are famous in Sacred History as the "Trees of the Lord " and " Trees of His planting " — the emblems of majesty, grandeur and strength, and as furnishing the wood used in the Temple of Solomon. (1 Kings V. 6; Ezra iii. 7; Isa. ii. 12, 13; xxxvii. 24; Am. ii. 9 ; Psa. xxix. 4, 5 ; xcii. 12 ; civ. 16.) Not lying in our way, we had no opportunity of seeing the representatives of the vast forests which once, 326 EELICS OF THE CEDAR-FORESTS. beneath the stress of the storm, made the very sides of Lebanon seem to shake. (Psa. Ixxii. 16.) But we give the following descriptive passage from a recent traveller : — " At the head of the Wady Kadesh there is a vast Eecess in the Central Eidge of Lebanon, some eight miles in diameter, in the midst of which, on an irregular knoll, stands the clump of Cedars. There is scarcely a patch of verdure on the surrounding declivities. Seen at a distance, they are like a speck on that vast mountain ; but on entering the grove, all feelings of disappointment vanish. Then the beautiful fan-like branches, and graceful pyramidal forms of the younger trees ; the huge trunks of the patriarchs, and their great gnarled branches extending far on each side, interlacing with their brethren ; and the sombre shade they make in the midst of a blaze of light — all tend to excite the highest admiration. The whole Grove is now scarcely half-a-mile in cir- cumference, and may contain about four hundred trees of all sizes — the young ones mostly on the outskirts, and the oldest in the centre. Only about a dozen very ancient trees remain, one or two of which are upwards of 40 feet in circumference ; but the trunks are much broken and disfigured partly by the snows of Winter, but chiefly by the Vandalism of Visitors, inscribing their names on their sides. There are thirty or forty others of respectable dimensions, QUARTERS FOR THE NIGHT. 327 some being three or four and even five feet in diameter." In returning from Damascus over the back of Lebanon, we encountered a heavy fall of snow, in consequence of which the horses had difficult work to drag us along. The temperature of these mountains is so various, at different degrees of elevation, that the Arabian Poets say, "Lebanon bears Winter on his head, Spring upon his shoulders, and Autumn in his bosom, while Summer lies sleeping at his feet." Its Hebrew name, as well as the modern appellation of Gihl Leban, both signify " The White Mountain," and refer to the perpetual snows which lie upon its peaks. Judging from the position of the Hue ; of congelation, the summits must be about 11,000 feet above the level of the Sea. DAMASCUS. Our Eoyal road makers have thrown up a batch of temporary buildings Eastward of Lebanon, for the accommodation of travellers. We remained there for the night ; but such a night's lodging I never had before. The apartments for man and beast are very similar. Our table was spread with abundance of provisions, and wine into the bargain, but so roughly and dirtily served that none but Arabs or Turks could relish the repast. The horses of the Company arrived 328 DAMASCUS —REMINISCENCES. from Damascus for our conveyance over the remainder of the journey, as the carriage-road had not been com- pleted the whole length of the route. We were therefore once more on the saddles, but such saddles that the bare backs of well kept horses would have been preferable. " Over the hills and far away " we went, reached Damascus at half-past one, and put up at the Hotel El Locanda, a large aristocratic establish- ment, situated in the centre of the City, in the " Street which is called Straight," believed to have been the identical Street of that name in which Ananias fomid Saul of Tarsus in the house of Judas. (Actsix. 11.) Eeminiscences. — Damascus, according to Jose- phus, was founded by Uz, the Son of Aram, and great- grandson of Xoah — an opinion which does not appear to have been disputed by historians. The family of Aram colonised the North-Eastern portions of Syria, whence that region is in Scripture uniformly called Aram, in places rendered " Syria " in our Version. (Thus, Jud. x. 6; 2 Sam. viii. 6; 1 Kings x. 29; Isa. vii. 2; Eze. xvi. 57.) This particular section of the country is called Aram Damesk, or " Aram of Damascus," because, to use the words of Isaiah, " The Head of Spia is Damascus," and so it still remains. (2 Sam. viii. 6; 1 Chro. xviii. 6; Isa. vii. 8.) Certain it is that Damascus was already a noted place in the days of Abraham, the " Steward of whose house was. HISTOKICAL REMINISCENCES. 329 Eliezer of Damascus." (Gen. xv. 2.) Under tlie sovereignty of the Hadads, it was the great rival of Israel. (1 Kings xv. 18 — 21.) During that stormy period the little Jewish maid was carried captive, whose suggestion led to the healing of the leprosy of Naaman. (2 Kings v. 1 — 14.) David subdued Damascus and laid the inhabitants under tribute ; but after his death one Eezon, a servant of Hadad- ezer Elino- of Zobah, made himself master of the place, and " was an adversary to Israel all the days of Solomon." (1 Kings xi. 23, 24 ; xv. 18, 19.) After a variety of fortunes, Damascus successively fell under the power of the Assyrians, Babylonians, and Persians, from the last of whom it was taken by Alexander the Great. Then it made a part of the Kingdom of the Selucidee, from whom it passed into the hands of the Komans. In the time of the Apostle Paul, whose miraculous conversion was so interestingly associated with this City, it belonged to the dependent Kingdom of the Arabian Prince Aretas. Christianity advanced rapidly here ; and its Metropolitan, with seven of his Suffragans, was present at the council of Nice. About seventy years afterwards the great Temple of Damas- cus, in which idolatry had been practised, was con- verted into a Christian Church and dedicated to St. John the Baptist. For nearly three centuries Christian- ity was dominant; but in the year 634, Abu-Beker, the successor of Mahomet, subdued the City and substi- 330 ADMIRABLE SITUATION OF DAMASCUS. tutecl Islamism. It then became the Capital of the Mahometan World, till the Caliphate was removed to Bagdad, and finally came into the hands of the Turks. The Town, by the natives called Es Sliam, lies in a plain at the Eastern foot of Anti-Libanus. Its environs are exquisitely beautiful, to which, however, the interior does not fully correspond. Both the Plain and City are weU watered by the rivers Abana and Pharpar, which ISTaaman favourably contrasted with the Jordan of Palestine. Damascus occupies one of those sites which nature seems to have intended for a great j)erennial City. It is most remarkable that under every change of Dynasty or Form of Government through which it passed, it held its station among the great Capitals of the World. It prospered alike under Persian despotism, Grecian anarchy, and Eoman patronage ; and prospers still despite the oppression and misrule of its Turkish Masters. It has stood for ages, surviving the decay of many cities upon whose birth it looked down as a venerable Patriarch looks upon a Child. In 1858, thousands of its Christian population were barbarously massacred and their dwellings burnt to the ground, making the Christian Quarter of the city a Ptuin, in which state it stiU remains. A few days before we arrived two Christians had been murdered. Still, despite all the elements of strife, Damascus remains a noble Metropolisv BAZAARS — ANTIQUITIES. 331 The Bazaars have long been celebrated as amongst the best in the East. Every trade has its own Quarter or Section in the immense network of busi- ness establishments. Thus, there is the Mercers' Bazaar, the Tailors' Bazaar, that of the Tobacconists, that of the Shoe-Makers, of the Silversmiths, Clogs, Books, and " Old Clo'." Before each shop turbaned heads and long-robed figures are the familiar objects. All the Costimies of Asia may be seen here pushing along the crowded thoroughfares, and struggling with panniered-donkeys, mules and camels. The Shops are well stocked ; but five or six times the value of each article is ruthlessly demanded, while the Vendor assures you with an oath that only yourself could buy it for the money ! Englishmen, who have not patience to bargain with these gentry, are generally " fleeced." The principal manufactures are Silk goods, which are exported to Egypt, Bagdad, and Persia; coarse woollen cloth, almost universally worn by the peasants of Syria and the Bedaween ; gold and silver ornaments ; and " Damascus blades.^' Antiquities. — In the thoroughfare now called the " Street of Bazaars," have been recently discovered fragments of pavement and broken columns showing the course of the " Street called Straight " or Via Beda, which here, as in all the Syro-Greek or Syro-Eoman towns — Palmyra, Gerasa, Sebaste, Phila- 332 ANTIQUITIES OF DAMASCUS. delpliia, and Antioch — intersected the City in a "straight" Kne, adorned on each side with Corinthian colonnades. A few steps out of the " Street of Bazaars," in an open space called " The Sheykh's Place," is the so-called " House of Judas " which contains a square room with a stone floor, one portion walled off for a Tomb, which is covered with the usual offering of shawls. In another " Quarter " is shown the " House of Ananias." Both are reverenced by Mussulmans as well as Christians. Tour tradi- tional sites are pointed out as the " Scene of the Conversion of St. Paul," which of course makes it at least three chances to one that any of them is the true place. At a distance of two miles outside the Walls of the City is the village of Hobah said to be that to which Abraham pursued the Kings. (Gen. xiv. 15.) The Synagogue there, is the only place now visited. In a corner of this is a cavity said to have been the Eetreat of Elisha. It is entered by a rude Staircase now almost w^orn away. Sick pilgrims " come and sleep here and rise the next morning well."(!) In the centre of the building is a space enclosed within rails, formerly said to mark the place of Hazael's Coronation, but now called the " Grave of Gehazi," Elisha's Servant, said to have died here aged 120. Outside the Gate of the City is a Leper Hospital supposed to occupy the site of Naaman's House. The place where Paul was " let down in a basket EETUKN TO ALEXANDRIA. 333 from the Wall" is also pointed out by the Monks. (Acts Lx. 25 ; 2 Cor. xi. 33.) Population, &c. — The population of Damascus last census was about 150,000, of which 129,000 were Muslems, 15,000 Christians, and 6,000 Jews. But since the Massacre of 1858 the number of the Christians will be greatly reduced. The Presbyterian Church of Ireland has a Mission Staff of three Minis- ters. The Associated Eeformed Church of the United States has also two Missionaries, together with a Physician, and a Lady who superintends a Female School. EETUEN TO ALEXAKDEIA. As already expressed, after spending two days at Damascus, we re-crossed the shoulder of Lebanon and arrived at Beyrout where we remained a week. While here, Avhen comfortably sheltered in the Hotel, the rain came pouring downi ; but during our fifteen days in the Desert, on the Dromedary and in the Tent, and during the nineteen days we spent in the Mountains and Valleys of Palestine and Spia, the weather was beautifully fine. This was to us a cause of gratitude to the Sovereign Disposer. Prom Bey- rout, on the 5th of April, we took Ship for Marseilles, and on the third day entered the Port of Alexandria. The Sultan was in the Harbour, in honour of whose presence the vessels riding at anchor had aU their 334 MESSINA — STROMBOLI. colours flying, and the City was brilliantly illuminated at night. MESSINA. On the afternoon of the 9th we sailed out of the Harbour of Alexandria, and after a very pleasant voyage of four days, we touched at Messina. Like all Mediterranean Towtis, it has a most pleasing appearance viewed from the water. The houses are lofty, stone-built, and partly covering the sides of the hills. The present town is new ; for the old town was completely destroyed by an Earthquake in 1780 ; it has several excellent buildings, and one or two good streets. It contains about 73,000 inhabitants. They carry on a brisk Trade in spinning and weaving silk ; beside the Exports of various kinds of fruits and wines, and a large quantity of kid-skins. The Harbour is more than two miles in circimiference, and is one of the best in the Mediterranean. The surrounding country also opens beautiful with varied prospects of mountains and woods, in a district of uncommon fertility. STEOMBOLI. Sailing out of Messina we had a noble view of Stromboli, which of itself constitutes one of the most Northerly of the Lipari Islands. The mountain has two summits, and is nine miles circuit at its base. ETNA — ERUPTIONS. OOO About half way up on the aSTorthern side is tlie Crater, which for two thousand years has never ceased to bum, and still continues to throw up lava attended Avith violent detonations. Even when peaceable, the ^^o^tex is in a state of ignition, and reflects a clear light into the atmosphere above, ^vith coruscations resembling those of the Aurora Borcalis. At times pieces of lava of a globular form, four or five feet in diameter, are thrown to the distance of a mile from the shore, while the flames are distinguishable for ninety miles. About a thousand persons in- habit the sides of the Volcano, who make them yield Malmsey-wine and olives. The Southern side, which, from the position of the Crater and the inter- vening Summit, is little liable to injury, has a copious Spring of excellent water, the only one on the Island. ETNA. Kimning along the Xorthem Coast of Sicily, we next sighted Etna, a huge Volcano, whose base covers a circumference of sixty -three miles, and whose peaks attain an altitude of 10,954 feet above the level of the sea. No less than sixty Eruptions of this mountain are recorded. In 1693 there was a violent Earthquake in the Island, and the Cone of the mountain sank considerably. The last eruption occurred in November, 1832, when the burning lava 336 SYEACUSE — AECHIMEDES. spread for miles over the Country, desolating luxuriant gardens and cultivated fields. From the recesses of the Volcano came forth the purest streams of fire and burning torrents of smoke. Those who ascend this IMountain, pass through all gradations of Climate from the glow of Italian smishine to the cold of the Polar regions. About a mile below the Great Crater are the Paiins of an ancient structure, called II Tmre del Filosofo, which some imagine to have been built by the philosopher Empedocles, and others suppose to have been a Temple of Vulcan. These Euins are of brick, and seem to have been ornamented with marble. SYEACUSE. About a hundred miles South of Messina is Syracuse, where Paid, spent three days, after leaving Melita, when being conveyed a prisoner to Ptome. (Acts xxviii. 12.) Under its owti Kings it acquired great wealth and power by means of an extensive Trade. About two hundred years B.C. it was taken by the Eomans after a Siege, rendered famous by the me- chanical contrivances whereby Archimedes protracted the defence. Strabo assigns to the ancient City, some of whose Euins are still visible, a circumference equal to twenty English miles. It is still a Town of considerable importance. CORSICA — BUOXAPARTE. 337 COESICA. On tiie second day after lea-ving Messina, we passed through the Straits of Bonifaccio, which separate the Islands of Sardinia and Corsica, the latter of which is famous as the birth-place of Napoleon Buonaparte. It is about a hundred and fifty miles long, forty-five broad, and nearly three hundred and twenty in circumference. It has few natural advantages ; the air is unwholesome, and the soil in general barren ; but it has several excellent Harbours. In this inconsiderable place that fiery spirit first drew the vital air, whose insatiable ambition and incomparable genius carried him through seas of blood to all but the Imperial Throne of Europe. It is remarkable that j^apoleon never shewed much afi'ection for his native country ; on the contrary, all his attachment was to France, as appears by his Will, which was registered at Doctors' Commons, August 5th, 1 824, in which he recommended his son to do as he did — "Everj'thing for France." SEQUEL OF THE JOUPtNEY. The Straits of Bonifaccio, through which we passed, are three miles across. The passage is considered highly dangerous. In the first year of the Crimean War, a French Ship was wrecked there, with 1000 troops on board, every man of whom perished. Leaving the Straits, we sailed before the wind until z 338 ARRIVAL IN ENGLAND. we reached Marseilles on the evening of the 1 5th, so that the Voyage from Alexandria was accomplished in Six Days. The same night we were on the Rails for Paris, and slept comfortably in the carriage. During the whole of the day following we travelled incessantly, and continued running untO. four o'clock on Friday morning, when we arrived in the French Metropolis. Here we revisited some places of interest, and the same evening booked for Dieppe, whence we embarked for Newhaven, and arrived in London before noon on the next day. The following morning (Sunday) I was melted to tears under a rich discourse by Dr. Gumming, from 1 John iii. 1. In the Afternoon I heard a useful Sermon in St. Paul's Cathedral on the "Eleventh Hour Labourer." (Matt. xx. 1 — 16.) And in the Evening I was edified by a heart-searching address by the Hon. and Eev. Baptist W. Noel, on the " Virgins." (Matt. xxv. 1—13.) How remarkable the contrast with Popish Superstition and Christless Mahometanism ! By the first train on Monday morn- ing we were off for Leeds, and arrived safely in the afternoon. But ! the sight of dear old friendly faces ! It is impossible to describe the heartfelt gratitude and blissful emotions which can only be excelled by those of our anticipated arrival at the Heavenly Home ! The Climate of Egypt is beautiful ; the Sights of the Holy Land are wondrous ; but my sympathies are with the sentiment of Cowper : — REFLECTIONS. 339 "England with all thy faults I love thee still." What can compensate the loss of Civil and Eeligious Liberty ; the banishment of the Gospel, and the pri- vation of Christian Friendships ? In conclusion, I would devoutly record my deep gratitude to the God of my life for His gracious good- ness evermore resting upon me "in journeyings often, in perils of waters, in perils of robbers, in perils by the heathen, in perils in the city, in perils in the wil- derness, in perils in the sea." During our Excursion two Shipwrecks occurred in the seas over which we sailed, yet no storm invaded us. Three Murders were perpetrated in localities through whicli we journeyed, yet no weapon was lifted against us. I thank God I have do disposition to assign these things to the play of chances ; I acknowledge no chance, but adoringly confess a Supreme and Universal Providence. To the Living God I would devote the remnant of my days, and I woidd fain join in the immortal song which shaU celebrate His Glorious Praise in a supe- rior clime. To His approbation, above all others, I commend the present attempt to possess my Friends with the information elucidatory of various passages in the Volume of Inspiration, collected particularly in connection with my Excursions into the Lands of the East.