THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES \5 ~u 3'' 'iJ TOPOGRAPHY OF OR, BRITISH TRAVELLER'S POCKET DIRECTORY; BEING AN ACCURATE A5D COMPREHENSIVB TOPOGRAPHICAL AND STATISTICAL DESCRIPTION OF ALL THE COUNTIES IN iJ^nglanlr, ^rotlaitlr, antr ^malt^, WITH THE ADJACENT ISLANDS: ILLUSTRATED WITH MAPS OF THE COUNTIESy WHICH FORM A COMPLETE BRITISH ATLAS. BY G. A, COOK E, ESQ. .-,- .j lLontion : Printed, by Assignment from the Executors of the late C. Cooke, FOR SHERWOOD, NEELY, AND JONES, PATERNOSTER-ROW : AND SOLD BY ALL BOOKSELLERS. 'T.t PREFACE. ^ AMONG the varidiis branches of human know^ ledge, there can be none more useful, ornamen- tal, or desirable, than that^hich comprehends a per- fect ac(iuaintance with the local history and internal advantages of our native country ; and there is per- haps no counti-y in the world more g-enerally interest- ing- to the scientific observer than the Island of Great Britain, in whatever light regarded ; whether, as a Tery respectable writer justly observes, " as the cradle of libeity, the mother of arts and sciences, the nurse of manufactures, the mistress of the sea," or ^ contemplated with a view towards its peculiar advan- -^ tages, the fertility of its soil, the mildness of its climate, and the value of its natural and artiticial V productions. "Vx The multitiule of English tours which have beert performed duruig the last half century, by distin- guished individuals, will certainly redeem our coun- trymen of fortune and fashion from a just censure for an unaccountable indifference towards the beau- ties of their own, while they thought it indispensable to become acquainted with those of foreign countries. A great advantage has been derived from the pub- lication of these tours, in the variety of valuable in- fomiation they have communicated. It must be confessed, however, that they are not of a character so generally useful as could be wished ; some of them being wholly descriptive of picturesque beauty, others entirely devoted to antiquarian researches, and the bulk of them formed from the hasty and in- correct memorandums of the general traveller, with- out any distnict view beyond amusement. There are indeed many general descriptions of Great Britain before the public ; but these are still less satisfactory than the works we have just alluded ^^- -"55 «-.£-:. Q to. LISRARiT IV PREFACE. to. Undertaking to include every thing", tbey are every where defective, or too briei'to afford valuable information. The more important points of com- merce and agriculture are very slightly discussed ; and the little given under these heads not at all to be depended on. A work comprehending the ancient and modern history of the British Islands, their topography, and natural history, commerce, agricuhure, and civil and domestic oeconomy, deduced from authentic sources, sufficiently ample, \^ithout being iiij necessarily dif- fuse, has long been a f'esideratum in English litera- ture ; and it is with a view to supply this want that The Topography of Great Britain has been under- taken. The design of the v. ork is to collect together a body of the most authentic and recent information respecting the history, topogi*aphy, and statics of Great Britain. In order to render such a work as useful as possible, we have considered that correct maps and accurate itineraries are indispensably ne- cessary : on the contrar^^, engravings of antiquities or picturesque scenery, which have already been so frequently presented to the public, would only tend to increase the expence of the work, without adding to its real value. We trust, therefore, our omission of these will be amply compensated by the particular attention paid to the beaut}^ and accuracy of our maps. In treating of the ancient history of the island, the most authentic accounts only will be de- tailed, avoiding mere speculation : and in describing the monuments of antiquity themselves, we shall be contented to give, as correctly as possible, their pre- sent appearance, with the opinions of the learned upon their probable origin, without entering ourselves into so extensive a field of conjecture. Our topographical descriptions have been drawn from the best works upon the subject, from original materials, and from actual observation. No pains have PREFACE. V have been spared in bringing fonvavd the most au- thentic historical accounts of the ancient and present state of every part of the country described. The names of every eminent native will be found record- ed with due respect, at the same time the work has not been unnecessarily increased in size by long biographical memoirs. The natural history of the British islands has claimed our particular attention ; and we have entered into its details as amply as the nature of our work would allow. The local trade and manufactures of every part of Great Britain we have endeavoured to display as correctly and with as much perspicuity as possible : and we have omit- ted no opportunity of pointing out favourable situa- tions for the exercise of industry, or beneficial appli- cation of capital. Our knowledge of the science of agriculture, which of late years has been so much the object of public attention, has been considerably increased by a description of work the most valuable of its kindf, as being derived from the most authentic sources, and executed by persons the most competent to treat tipon the subject. We allude to the survey's of the counties, under the auspices of the Agricultural Board : and we do not hesitate to declare that we have derived a great mass of valuable infonnation upon the husbandry of Great Britain from a selec- tion made with great care out of these papers, in ad- dition to other assistance, and oiu- own actual obser- vations. It will be found indeed that we have omit- ted nothing that they contain valuable or U!?eful to be known. Upon this plan, it is presumed The Topography of Great Britain cannot fail to be as interesting and entertaining as it is useful. The natural phi- losopher and the learned antiquaiy will find the work to be the best index to the objects of their seve- ral pursuits, which abound in the British Islands. The commercial incjuirer will meet with the most a 3 satisfactory vi PREFACE. satisfactory Information as to the articles of com- merce and manufactures of the country. The agri- cuhurist will derive the most important addition to lus stock of scientific knowledge from the information ^iven respecting the variety of soils, produce, and modes of husbandry to be found in the kingdom ; and his judgment will be assisted by the comparisons he will thus be enabled to make. The speculatist will be correctly led to new fields for exertion ; his views will be opened and enlarged by the introduction of ncAV situations, new products, and new markets, to his view, and by authentic and complete accounts of local advantages, of which, perhaps, he was not before aware, from their not having been hitherto sufficiently noticed or accurately pointed out to enable him to exercise his genius in the improvement of his capital, and the acquirement of fortune, in com- merce, manufactures, or agriculture. And the tra- veller, for general information and amusement, ^viU find in the following volumes a correct guide to every thing curious and deserving attention throughout England, Scotland, and Wales ; while the maps, which form a most valuable and useful ornament to the work, together with the itineraries which accom- pany them, will present him with as perfect and complete a directory as any extant. From a thorough conviction of the utility of the plan, we have placed at the head of our description of each county an inspection table, exhibiting at one view — The diocese in which such county is situated, Its boundaries, Its extent, Its divisions and subdivisions, The cities, towns, villages, vicarages, and parishes it contains, The number of representatives it returns to Par- liament. GENERAL GENERAL GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION GREAT BRITAIN. THE Island of Great Britain consists of three separate parts, or divisions, which together form one kingdom- Two of these Parts, namely, England and Wales (which conjunctively form one part) are called South Britain; and the other, by way of distinction, is called Scotland, or NouTH Britain. Great Britain is the largest island in Europe ; and, in opulence and power, at least equal to any in the known world. It is situated in the Atlantic or Western Ocean, being bounded on the east by the German Ocean ; on thp west by the Irish Sea, or St. George's Channel ; on the north by the Deucaledonian, or Northern Ocean; and on the south by the British Channel. It is somewhat of a triangular form, and extends in length, from north to south, 540 miles; that is, according to astronomical cal- culation, reckoning 60 miles to a degree; but in English statute measure, its length is exactly 622 miles and a half. Its breadth, which must be taken from the Land's End in Cornwall, to the South Foi eland in Kent, is 285 miles,and its circumference (including the windings of the coast) 1830. Its longitude is from 9 deg. 45 min. to 17 deg. 15 min. and the latitude from 50 to 69 deg. north. It is si- tuated at a convenient distance from the surrounding nations, its ports being open for the commerce of the whole world. It advances so far into the sea between the extremity of Kent and Calais in France, that many an- cient writers have conjectured it was originally joined to the continent, from which it was separated bj-^ some super- natural eruption. This seems to be the opinion of Mr. Camden, who says, ♦' It is very probable that the face of " the globe underwent an alteration from the waters of *^ the deluge, and other causes; thatsome mountains were *' thrown up, and many higher places sunk into plains and " vallies; that bodies of water were dried up; dry grounds " became pools of stagnant water; and that some islands " were torn from the continent." But, however this may have been, it is certain that, fiom the similarity of ap- pL-aranco Vlll ClOGnAPHICAL DESCRIPTION pearance in the clifts of Dover and those of Calais^ there is some reason for the conjecture. The area of England and Wales, according to the latest authorities, appears to be 58,335 square statute miles, equal to 37,343,400 statute acres j the inhabitants on each square mile average 152 persons. Total, 8,866,220 persons. Orisin of the Name — " Britain.'* Various have been the conjectures of different writers with respect to the origin of the name Britain j but among the whole the most probable is that it was first called Bra- tanacj which name is said to have been given it by the Phoenicians, who first traded to the western coast of the island for tin, lead, and other articles ; and this conjecture appears the more reasonable, when we consider, that the word Brathnac, m the Phoenician language, signifies the land of tin. It was afterwards called Albion^ a term de- rived from the Greek word Alphon, which signifies white, in alkision to the whiteness of the chalky clifts, which are first seen upon the island being approached from the sea. It was called by the Romans Britannia^ or Britannicae In- sulae, and afterwards Britain, which last epithet (according to Camden) is supposed to have b^en derived from the British word, Briih, painted, (which was peculiarly cha- racteristic of the custom of the natives, who took a pride in staining their bodies with a dye of a blue colour) and Tanioy a country, a region. The southern part of Britain, termed England, is sup- posed to have received its name from an Anglo-Saxon province, called Anglcland, or the Land of the Angles, the inhabitants of which, emigrating from their own country, gave that name to those parts of which they became masters by conquest, and, in the course of time, the whole was called England, which was fixed as the com- mon name of the southern parts of the island. That part of Britain denominated Wales, is bounded on the west and north by the Irish Sea ; on the east by Cheshire, Shropshire, Herefordshire, and Monmouthshire, and on the south by the river Severn, and the Bristol Channel ; it is about 150 miles in length from north to south, and from 56 to 86 broad. The name is supposed to be derived from the Saxon word JVaUia, signifying the land OF GREAT BRITAIN, IX land of Strangers, a name the Saxons gave to that part of the country into which they had driven the native inha- bitants when they took possession of the rest. It was thew detached from England, but has since been so united, that the two form one grand part of the kingdom, under the name of South Britain, as does the other under the name of Scotland, or North Britain. Exclusive «jf these principal divisions, Great Britain is surrounded by a prodigious number of smaller islands ; some of which are single, as the Isles of Wight, Man, &c. some of them are in clusters, as the Scilly Islands, Or- cades, &e. and others are scattered along the coasts, as the Western Isles, &c. Climate, Soil, and Natural Productions of Great Britain. The Island of Great Britain, from the peculiarity of it& situation, enjoys many advantages unknown to the inha- bitants of other countries. The climate, though some- times censured, as being subject to frequent and consi- derable variations, is, upon the whole, both temperate and wholesome. If our weather be, as is commonly al- leged, in general less steady and serene than in some other countries of Europe, it is not so sultry in one sea- son, or so rigorous in another. We are subject in a smaller degree to storms of thunder and lightning, to long piercing frosts, and deep snows; and though we have a full proportion of rain, yet it falls moderately, and not with such weight and violence as to produce sudden and dangerous inundations. Our seasons are so genial as to ripen all sorts of grain, of some sort or other, in all the different parts of the island ; to furnish us with a great variety of excellent fruit, and to afford us the most luxuriant pastures, by the confession of n)ost of our neighbours J so that what v.as heretofore said, still conti- nues true, that, except wine, oil, and a few rich fruits, that are the peculiar blessings of hotter climes, this country derives from warmth and vegetation all that its inhabitants can be jnstly said to want, or indeed that tUey can reasonably wish or desire. The ground is clothed with an almost perpetual verdure, and the whole country is so diversiiied with hills and dales, as to exhibit to the view a variety of the most delightful and pleasing prospects,, X GEOGRAPHICAI, DESCRIPIION prospects. The various winjlings and indentions of the coast afford numberless harbours for the security of ship- ping-, and the surrounding seas teem with myriads of fish, -which not only gratify the inhabitants as food, but turn to their advantage, by the traffic they carry on with them in foreign countries. ' The salubrity of the air, the fertility of the soil, and the abundant produce of corn in Great Britain, are par- ticularly noticed by Tacitus, who saj's, " In this Island *' there is no intense cold ; besides the olive and the vine, *' and other fruit-trees natural to warmer climates, the *' soil produces corn in considerable quantities, which, ** however slow in ripening, springs up apace; both which " circumstances are owing to the same cause, the great " moisture of the ground and air." Another very an- cient author, in speaking of the island for its great pro- duce of corn, expresses himself thus, •' Here sovereign Ceres holds her ample reign." ENGLAND Is at present divided into Thirty-Nine Counties (be- sides the County of Monmouthshire, which has been con- sidered as a part of England ever since the reign of Henry VIII.) which we have described in the following order, viz. Cornwall, Cambridgeshire, Shropshire, Devonshire, Huntingdonshire, Staffordshire, Somersetshire, Northamptonshire, Leicestershire, Dorsetshire, Bedfordshire, Rutlandshire, Wiltshire, Hertfordshire, Lincolnshire, Berkshire, Middlesex, Nottinghamshire, Hampshire, Buckinghamshire, Derbyshire, Sussex, Oxfordshire, Cheshire, Surry, Gloucestershire, Lancashire, Kent, Monmouthshire, Yorkshire, Essex, Herefordshire, Westmoreland, Suffolk, Worcestershire, Cumberland, Norfolk, Warwickshire, Durham, And Northumberland. WALES. OF GREAT BniTAIN. WALES. The Principality of Wales, which will next follow, contains in that part called South Wales the following Counties, placed in the order they are described : Brecknockshire, Glamorganshire, Cardiganshire, Pembrokeshire, Carmarthenshire, Radnorshire. In that part denominated North Wales : Anglesea, Flintshire, Caernarvonshire, Merionethshire, and Denbighshire, Montgomeryshire- SCOTLAND. North Britain or Scotland is also divided into Counties or Shires j viz. the Shires of Edinborough, Air, Kenross, Haddington, Dunbarton, Clackmanan, Merse, Bute, Fife, Hoxborough, Caithness, Forfar, Selkirk, Renfrew, Kincardin, Peebles, 8tirling, BamfF, Lanark, Linlithgovr, Aberdeen, Dumfries, Argyle, Elgin, Kirkcudbright, Perth, Nairne, €romartie,liiverness,Ross, Sutherland, and Orknev. BRITISH ISLANDS. Lastly are described the British Islands, viz. The Isle of Wight, The Isle of Man, The Isles of Guernsey and Jersey, The Isles of Alderney and Sark, Tbe Sciliy Islands, The Xll r>E.S,CR[PT10N OF GREAT BRITAIX. The Orcades, or Orkney Islands, The Islands of Shetland, The Hebrides, or Western Isles, &c. &c. THE LAW DIFISION OF ENGLAND Is in Six Circuits ; viz. The Heme Circuit, Essex, Hertfordshire, Surry, Sussex, and Kent. Norfolk Circuit. Buckinghamshire, Bedfordshire, Huntingdon- shire, Cambridgeshire, Norfolk, and Suffolk. Midland Circuit. Warwickshire, Leicestershire, Derbyshire, Not- tinghamshire, Lincolnshire, Rutlandshire, and Northamptonshire. 0.vford Circuit. Berkshire, Oxfordshire, Gloucestershire, Mon- mouthshire, Herefordshire, Shropshire, Stafford- shire, and Worcestershire. Western Circuit. Hampshire, Wiltshire, Dorsetshire, Somerset- shire, Cornwall, and Devonshire. Northeryi Circuit. Yorkshire, Durham, Northumberland, Cumber- land, Westmoreland, and Lancashire. TOPOGRAPHICAL AKD STATISTICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTY OF CORNWALL, Containing an Account of its Situation, Mines, Agriculture, Extent, Minerals, Fairs, Towns, Fisheries, Markets, Roads, Manufactures, Curiosities, Rivers, Trade, Antiquities, Lakes, Commerce, Natural History Civil and Ecclesiastical Jurisdictions, &c. To which is prefixed, A COPIOUS TRAVELLING GUIDE, Exkibiting The Direct andprincipal Cross Roads^ Inns and Distances oj" Stages, and Noblemen and Gentlemen'' s Seats, Forming a COMPLETE COUNTY ITINERARY: With A LIST OF THE FAIRS, And an Index Table ^ Shewing, at One View, the Distances of all the Towns from London, and of Towns from each other. BY G. A. COOKE, ESQ. Illustrated with a MAP OF THE COUNTY. Itontion: Printed, by Assignmentfrom the Executors ojthe late C. Cooke, FOR SHERWOOD, NEELY, AND JONES, PATERNOSTER-ROW; AND SOLD BY ALL BOOKSELLERS. AN INDEX TABLE OF THE DISTANCES FROM TOWN TO TOWN Comity of €ortttoaU» To find the Distance from Bodmin to Truro, see Bodmin or the top, and Truro on the side; carry your sight to the squaVe where both meet, which gives the distance; 2 « H J: en u ^ ' U "sS I ~ I — 1 .- ' -2 ^ tri'^|*|X|'*l'?>|<^|5> I « I |_l^llil.l 5i5l^ S '^lj^|q_lll5ilR!A)i' s § 3i2i^i3m3iA!^iiJ^ ^ Jl:2|i?. |^|:;l5isi?.|^li l3i 2 i^3g| g|SISI3li£|3|2|5l.^l ^JJ § ^ K|2^ll_l3Rlt]2J2iSJSJi ' 7il- 1 I 1g blg?l^l?il5l^l^l^l^'l^ |2|^ISI2| 52 o ,5i?Moi-ci«hir>l30l-*i:5l='. iqoiqi'fiaij;! 2 ^ ^ Ml3!l^l$lg|gsriS|::;^|g|g|^|S|gJ . %^ S 3g'l^ 1^1^ 1^1^ 1^1^ 1^1'^ I? 1^1? 1^1^' 1^1^ i I S ul?.|^.ISIS;|a|:gl2|:;::|2|2U|g|;lll£|??lg S l u|2|^|::|:^l?^l8IS|2|°>|;^|sg|3!|g|g|"l^l^|:5 < «l?,I^ISl;£|;;ISI^I^|g|::|'^|:2|:;l5:|S|^l=l^i ;Z|21^1g|2|s:l5n;;;|sg|^l8ri2i?i|$|^l^|i'r-|2 •iiiiai|liiiiLM|iii£ b2 ^. .. o o o ■M - W C -■s ^r^ E^. >•= =^3^5; ?^5 „^| K ;^ O -i 1. «; « CS « O a _• J 4^ y C6 t- *• CL,,CO a c, s is cs5 CO O AN ITINERARY THE DIRECT AND PRINCIPAL CROSS ROADS, IN CORNWALL. In which is included the Stages, Inns, and Gentlemen's Seats. N.B. The first Column contains the Names nj Places passed through; the Figures that J'ollow shew the Distances from Place to Place. Town to Town^ and Stages; and in the last Column are the Names of Gentlemen's Seats and Inns. The right and i-^ft of the Roads are distinguished by the letters R and L.. FALMOUTH TO PENRYN, TRURO, BOD- MIN, AND LAUNCESTON. Falmouth to Penryn Enys .. Stiken Bridge Parrenwell . . . . _ Lower Carnon.... Killigannon Killow Calenick Truro Pemount Polvvhele St. Erme, HighO way J 2 2 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 12 13 Inn — Golden TJon. At Enys, on R., F. Enys^ Esq. At Stiken Bridge^ on R., Carclew Park, Sir W. Lemon, Bart. At Parrenwell, on L. , ■ Fox, Esq. At Killigannon, on R., Dagge, Esq. At Killow, on L., R. Lo- vel Gwat^in, Esq. Inns — Red Lion, Sc King^s Arms. — Near Truro, on R., Tregothnan, Vise. At Pemomit, on L., CoL DPCarmick. At Polwhele, on R., Rev. Mr. Polwhele. B 3 Treworsfan ♦5 TrevvorsfaQ Truthan 1 St. Michael ITINERARY OF THE 141 At Trervorgan, on L., James Buller, Esq. At Truthan, on L., Mr. John Roberts. Inn — The Feathers, 22 Summer Court . , Higher Penhale^ Lower Fraddon Cross ^ West j Dotvns, and ^ Bostray's \ Common .... Goss Moor ...... Beloveley , East Lane-end . . Lanevitt i 4i37 Ford ' 138 •8 23 9 32 li33 Bodmin 2 LancrafF Trewardale .... Pound's Cross. ... 1 Pev eral's Cross . . 3 Palmer's Bridge, . 3 Trewent Five Lanes Hick's Mill , Cross the Inny, R Launceston 40 60 Inn — Indian Queen, Inns — White Hart, and King's Arms. — ^At Bod- min, near Lanhydrock House, Han. Mrs. Bag- nal Agar. At Lancraff, on L., Fran- cis John Hext, Esq. At Trenardale, on L., Mrs. Collins. Trengoff., Esq, Inn — The London. Near Hick's Mill, Tre- burney House, W. Eliot, Esq. [ims — White Hart, and Exeter Inn. PENZANCE COUNTY OF CORNWALL. PENZANCE TO HELSTON, TRURO, ST. AUSTEL, LESTWITHIEL, LESKEARI>, AND SALTASH. Penzance to Gulval Marazion Golzenna Germoe Breeage Methleigh Helston Parrenwell Lower Carnon... Killow Calenick Truro At Gulval^ on L., Charles Pejmick, Esq. — Near Penzance, at Castle HoV' necky J. Borlase; Rose- hill, R. Oxnan ; and Trereite, Mrs. Nicholls. — On R., Kenegie, Rose Price, Esq. ; and Tre- valor, Wm. Veale, Esq. At Marazion. on R., Clow- ance, or ^S*^. MicliaeVs Mount, Sir John S'f, Auhyn, Bart. At Germoe, on R,, GodoU phin Park, Duke of Leeds. At Methleigh, Coad, Esq. Inn — The Angel. — Near Helston, on L., Trehill, J. Rorve, Esq. Carclerv Park, Sir W. Le- mon, Bart. At Killow, on R., R. Le- vel Gnatkin, Esq. Inns— Red Lion, ^' King's Arms. — Near Truro, Visc.Tregothnan. OnL. Tregolls, Admiral W. Lake. Penair 8 Penair Kigg-on Tresillian ITINERARY OF THE Probus .,, Trewitlian Grampound Pennans.... Sticker .. St. Austel St. Blazey High- way } St. Blazey . St. Blazey Bridge Penpillick . . . Pelyii Lestwithiel Brido-e End . Hartswell . . Fairy Cross Western Tap- House .,,.. } 1 37 1 38 1 39 2 41 1 42 i 2 43 1 44 2 46 3 49 2 51 1 52 1 53 1 54 2 56 1 57 h an i 58 1 59 2 61 On L., Penair, Carthem Reynolds, Esq. On R. , Penkaleiiick, Rev. Johu Vivian. At Kiggon, on L., Pohuej * Zaccheus Andrew, Esq. At Tresillian, on L., Ti- cane, Wm. Stackhouse, Esq. Trewithan, M. G. Cregoe, Esq. Inn — Queen's Head. On R., Pennans,- thorn, Esq. 'Dins- Inn— White Hart.— At St. Austel, N. Crewe, Esq. At St. Blazey, on L., Tre- grehan, Thomas Carhjon, Esq. At Pelyn, on R., Rev. A'i- cholas Kendal. Inns — Crown, and Dog. bl\ On L., Restormel Castle, J. Hext, Esq. On R., Penquite, T. Graham^ Esq. Boconock House, Ld. Greri' ville. Dobwalis Dobwalls . Looe Mills, Leskeard . Cartuther . Coldrinick. Roll Foot . Tideford... Landrake . Stockerton . Weaid ... Saltash . . , COUNTY of CORNWALL. 9 5 66 At Dobtvalls, on R. , Tre- I nani, Sir John Morshead^ Burt. 67| 69 Inn — Kingh Arms. 70 On R., Ctti'tuther, Mrs. Morshead. 3 73 On L., Coldrinick, D. C. Trelawnei/, Esq. 2 75 At Kol/j'oGt, on L., Catch- french, trancis Glan- ville, Esq. 2 77 At Tideford, on R., Port Eliot., Lord Eliot. 2179 At Landrake, on L., JoJui Roger, Esq. Ii80 On R., Stockerton, Hon. I Admiral de Courcy. 2!82 On R., Weard, Har- j vis on, Esq. 1 83 Inn — Green Dragon. PADSTOW TO BODMIN, LESKEARD, CAL- LINGTON, AND TAVISTOCK. From Padstow to Treator Little Petenvick St. Issey White Cross Wade Bridg-e Slade Bridge Croane .... 1 1 2 3 1 4 2 6 2 8 2 10 1 11 At Padstow Place, C. Pri- dcux, Esq. Inn — Red Lion. Treator, onR., Dr. Peters. At White Cross, on L., Trequennorve Castle, Sir Wm. Molesworth, Bart. At Croane, on L., Mrs, Kirkham. Washway 10 Washway Dunmear ..,,. Bodmin Lanhydrock . . . Resprin Bridge Bridge End Western Tap- House Dobwalls .... ITINERARY OF THE 1 12 At Washway y on L., Sir W. Molemorth, Bart. 1 13 At Dunmear, Higher Bus- cam, — Flamank, Esq, 2 15 Inns— White Hart, and King^s Arms. 1 16 At Lanhydrock, Hon. Mrs. Agar. 1 17 At Resprin Bridge, on L., Glynn, J. Glynn, Esq. 1 18 At Bridge End, on R., Resturmel Castle, J. Hext, Esq. Looe iMills Leskeard . 21 5126 Pengover Venton .. St. Ives . . New Bridare , Callixgton Kingston Down New Bridge, and cross the Rive?' Tamar Tavistock At Dohvalls, on R., Tre- nant, Sir John Mars- head, Bart. Inn — Kingh Arms. At St. Ives, on R , Har- uood, W. Roberts, Esq. At New Bridge, on R., Neivton Ferris, Westoit Helyar, Esq. The Neiu Inn. . Inns Bedford Arms, King^s Arms, and Lon- don Inn. LAUNCESTON COUNTY OF CORISWALL. 11 LAUNCESTON TO CALLINGTON, SALT- ASH, AND PLYMOUTH. Launceston to Lezant Bale's Mill ... Stokeclimsland Whiteford House Callington St. Mellion Pentelley Halt Moditham Saltash... King's Tamerton Weston Mills . . . Mile House Plymouth At Stokeclimsland, on L., Rev. Mr. Ratcliff. On R., Whiteford House, Sir J. Call, Bart. The New Inn. At St. Mellion, on L., Cro- cadon, J. Coryton, Esq. On L., Pentelley, J. T. Cory ton, Esq. On R., Hatt, Rev. Charles Tucker. On L., Moditham, William Batt, Esq. Inn — Green Dragon. At King's Tamerton, en L., St. Budeaux, F. Corham, Esq. Inns — Pope^s Head, King's Arms Hotel, The Globe, Bristol Inn, and Oxford Inn. ST. IVES TO REDRUTH, TRURO, TRE- GONY, ST. AUSTEL, FOWEY, WEST- LOOE, AND PLYMOUTH, St. Ives to Tregenny Trevethoe OnR., Tregenny, — Ste- phens, Esq. On R., Trevethoe, H. M. Praed, Esq, Lelant 12 Leiant Tredrea About 1 mile fro)i Phillack cross the Hoijle, R St. Earth Guilford An^arack Conner Cross the R. Con- ner to Treswithen ITINERARY OF THE Redeuth Treleigh White HaU ... Scorrier House Chase Water . , Seveak House. Croftwest Truro .. Tresilian Tregothnan Freewater On R., Tredrea, Davis Giddy, Esq. Inns — King's Arms, and Bell. — Near Redruth, Treliiddy Park, Lord de Dunstanville. On L., Treleigh, Knighton, Esq. Onh., White Hall, TWil^ son, Esq. On R., Scorrier House, J. Williams, Esq. On R. , Seveak House, Mi^ chael Allen, Esq. On L., Croftwest, T. Mit- ch ell, Esq. Near Truro, on L., Tre* golls, W. Luke, Esq.-^ Tnns — Red Lion, and King's Arms. At Tresillian, Ticane, W. StacJihouse, Esq. On R., Tregothnan, Lord Viscount Falmouth. Ax Freewater, on L., Tre- withian, M. G. Creyve, Esq. Trewarthenick COUNTY OF CORNWALL. 13 Trewarthenick. . . . Tregony Pitsdown Pennans Sticker 1 1 2 1 1 3 2 1 1 1 1 2 2 1 1 2 2 1 1 1 1 31 32 34 35 36 39 41 42 43 44 45 47 49 50 51 53 55 56 57 58 59 On R., Trewarthenick, F. Gregor, Esq. On L. , Pennans, — Dino- thorn, Esq. Heliyan, E. J. Glynn, Esq. inxi— White Hart.— At St. Austel, N. Crewe, Esq. At St. Blazey, on Ju.,Tre- yrehan, Thomas Car- lyon, Esq. St. Austel St. BlazeyHigh-"! way J St. Blazey Gate . . Par Kilmarth ........ Menabilly FowEY On R., Kilmarth, W. Rashleigh, Esq. On R., Menabilly, W. Rashleigh, Esq. inn— The Ship. Cross the Fowev,U. Trelack Trenewan Treweers Wayland West Looe ,._ ., Cro§s the Looe, 11., to " East Looe Bodififa At Wayland, Trelawney, Rev. Sir H, Tre'awney. ,-, * r ragmoor Seaton At Fragmoor, on L., Pew- hale, Hill, Esq. and Rev. C. Sweet. Downderry ...... Lantick 14 Lantick .. Tregantle Millbrook ITINERARY OF THE Maker , Ciimble Plymouth 1 2 61 2 63 2 65 1 66 1 67 2 69 — — At Millbrook, on R., T. Edwards, Esq. At Crimble, on R., Mcmnt Edgecumbe Park, Earl of Mount Edgecumbe. Inns — Seepage 11. BODMIN TO LESTWITHIEL AND FOWEY. Bodmin to 2 3 Trefry ] 2 LanhydrockHousel 1 Maudlin 1 Lestwithiel ' 2 Pelyn Lanlivery Com- mon , Castle Door . . . } FoWEY 11 On L., Lanky drock House y Hon. Mrs. Bagnal Agar. Inns — Tke Crorvji, and the Dog. On L., Pelyn, Rev. Nicho^ las Kendal. At Castle Doo7', Penquite, T. Graham, Esq. 3 14|Inn— STAe Ship. LAND'S END TO PENZANCE, REDRUTH, ST. MICHAEL, ST. COLUMB MAJOR, CAMELFORD, AND LAUNCESTON. Land's End to Trevivian Penrose . . Trebear . . . , Treseder . . St. Bury an 1 1 1 2 1 3 1 4 1 5 On L., Penrose, J. Rogers, Esq. Treriefe COUNTY Treriefe 3 Alveton .. Penzance Gulval ... Marazion Goldzitheny , Ennys . , Relubbas Gurlynn , Fraddon Henver , Wall Halgarrack Barrepper . . Camborne ...... Lower Rosewarne Tucking Mill .... Poole OF CORNWALL. 15 On L., Treriefe, W. Ni- cholls, Esq. 12 13 15 24 26 Near Penzance are Castle Horneck, S. Borlase, Esq. ; Rose Hill, R. Ox' nan, Esq.; andTrerei- te, Mis. Nichols. On L., Gulval, Charles Pennick, Esq. At Marazion, on R., St. MichaeVs Mount, Sir J. St. Auhyn, Bart. At Goldzithney, on L., jS^^ Hilary, Rev. Mr. Hich- ens. On L., T. Grylls, Esq. At Relubbas, on R., Tre- gembo. Rev. H. Willy- ams, Esq. OnL., W.Babb,Esq. At Henver, on L., Befur- rell, — Hathnance, Esq. On R., W. Richards, Esq. Ax Barrepper, on R., Pen- derves, John Stachhouse, Esq. At Camborne, on R., Tho- mas Kevill, Esq. On L., J. Cocke, Esq. — OnR., W. Harris, Esq. At Tucking Mill, on L., Higher Rosewarne, A, Paul, Esq. At Poole, on L., Illugan, Parsonage, Rev. J. Bas- sett, c 2 Redruth 1() ITINERARY OF THE Redruth 2 28 Near Redruth^ Trehiddy Park, Lord de Dunstan- ville. Inns — King's Arms, and London Inn. Treleigh 1 29 On R., J. M. Knighton, Esq. Black water 2 31 Parren Alms- ) House 5 3 34 Govarrow 2 36 Truthan 2 38 At Truthan, 3Ir. John Ho- herts. St. 3I1CHAEL .... 2 40 Summer Court . . 9 — 42 Hig-lier Penhale . . 43 Lower Fraddon . . 1 44 Nanswyden 1 45 Hig-her Trekening 1 46 St. CoLLMB 3Ia- ^ JOR ) 1 47 Inn — Red Lion. Glivian 1 T. At Glivian, on R., Tren'an, R. ViviaUy Esq. Hlo-her Ranzidj^ie 7 55 No 31an's Land .. 1 56 "White Cross.... _ 1 57 At White Cross, on L., Tre- quenowe, Sir W. Moles- worth. St. Brock 1 58 On \\.,R€v. J. MolesiLorth. ^^adebrido•e ... .. 1 59 "Whitehall 4 63 TreliU 1 64 (J5 St. Teath Helstone 2 67 Traraagenon 1 68 At Tramagenon, on L., Lantegloss, Rev.W. Phil- lips. Camelford COUNTY OF CORNWALL. 17 Camelford St. Ketts . . Davidstow. Hall Drunkard . Kitt's Moor St. Stephen's . . . Launceston . . , 2 70 Inn — King^s Arms. 373' 1 74 At Davidstow, on L., Rev, I John Lethbridge. 175 2 771 6 84 At St, Stephen'' s, on R., 1 Sir Jonathan Phillips, ! Knt. 1 80 Inns — White Hart, and —I Exeter Inn, A CORRECT LIST OF ALL THE FAIRS IN CORNWALL. St. Austel — Thurs. before Easter, "Whit Thurs., July 23, Oct. 16, and November 30, for oxen, sheep, and cloth. Bodmin — Jan. 25, Sat. after Mid Lent Sunday, Saturday before Palm Sunday, Tuesday and Wed. before Whit Sun day, & December 6, for oxen, sheep, and cloth St. Blazey— Feb. 2, for cattle, &c. Blisland — Monday near est September 22. Bolingey — March 16, for oxen, sheep, & cloths Boscastle — August 5, and November 22, for ditto. ^pytow— Mon fortnight after August 1, for cat- tle, &c. Callington — First Tues. in March, May 1, Sept. 19, and November 12. Camborne — February 24, March 7, June 29, and Nov. 11, for cattle. Camelford — Friday after March 10, May 26, July 17, 18, September 5 ; and first Wednesday after the 29th of Sept. for cattle. St. Columb — Thurs. after Mid Lent, and Thurs. after November 12, for cattle. Dolsdon — July 9, and Oc- tober 1. East Loot — February 13, c 3 July 18 LIST OF FAIRS. July 10, September 4, and October 10, for cat- tle, &c. St. Eve — Thursday after April 7, and Thursday Launceston after November 4. Falmouth — August?, and October 10, for cattle. Fivelanes — Monday week after Jane 24, and first Thursday in Nov. for all sorts of cattle. Forney — Shrove Tuesday, May 1, and September 10, for cattle. St. Germains — May 28, and Aug. 1, for cattle. Goldzithney — August 5, ^ for cattle. Grampaund Jan. 18. 3Iarch 25, and June 11, for cattle. Haleworthy — October 18. Heist one — Saturday be- fore Mid Lent Sunday, Saturday before Palm Sunday, Whit Monday, July 20, September 9, November 8, and Dec. 11, 30, for cattle. St. Ives — Saturday before Advent, for cattle. Killhampto n — H ol y Th . that day three weeks, June lb, and August - 26, for cattle. Kellington — May 4, Sept. 19, and November 12, for cattle. Latidrake — July 19, and August 24, for cattle. Lanreath Whit Tues- day, November 18. -First Thurs. in March, a free mar- ket ; third Thursday iii April, ditto, Whit Mon. July 6, November 17, and December 6, for cattle. St. Lanrance — Aug. 10, and Oct. 29, for cattle. Lelant — August 15, for cattle. Lestrvithiel — July 10, Sep. 6, and November 13, for cattle. St. Marbyn~¥eh. 13. Marham Church — March 25, and August 12. Market jew — Thurs. three weeks before Easter, and September 29, for cattle, ^^;c. St. Martin— Y eh. 13. Menheniot April 23, June 11, and July 28, for cattle, &c. : if any of these days happen on Saturday, the fair is held on the Monday following. Milhrook — May 1, and September 29. >S'*. Mitchel, or St. Michel, in the Borough of St. Mitchel — If the fair is on Sunday, kept the Monday LIST OF FAIRS. IVFonday after October 15, for all sorts of cat- tle, horses, sheep, wool, hops, and all other mer- chandize. St. Neot—Mdiy 5, Easter Monday, and Nov. 6. Newlyn — November 8. Northill — September 8, (if on Friday or Satur- day, the Monday after) first Thursday in Nov. Padstow — April 18, and September 21, for cat- tle, &c. Penrose — ^Tuesday before Ascension. Penryn — May 1, July 7, and December 21. Penzance — Thursday af- ter Trinity Sunday, & Thurs. before Advent. Pillaton—\\\\\i Tuesday. Piranzahuloe — March 16. Plint — June 24, for cat- tle, &c. Polperro — June 29. Port Isaac — Holy Thurs. Poundscross — Last Mon- day in November. Pound Stock — Mon. be- fore Ascension. Praze — July 15. Probus — April 5, 23, May 4, July 5, and Septem- ber 17, for cattle. Redruth— yiay 2, July 9, Aug-ust 3, September 19 5, and October 1, for cattle, &c. Saltash — February 2, and July 25, for cattle, &c. Tuesday before Lady Day, Midsummer, Mi- chaelmas, and Christ- mas. South Pet herrvin- Second Tuesday in May and October. 'S'^. Stephens — Feb. 7, May 12, July 31, and Sept. 25, for cattle. Sec. StokecUmsland — I\Iay 29. Stratton-^MsLj 19, Nov. 8, and Dec. 11, for cattle. Summer Court — Holy Thursday, July 28, and Sept. 25, for cattle, &c. St. ZVaiA— First Tuesday in July. Tintagell, or Trevena — Oct. 19, for cattle, Sec. Treganatha — ]\Iay 6, and Augnst 12, for cattle. Tregony — Shrove Tues- day, May 3, July 25, Sept. 21, and Nov. 6, for cattle, &c. Tresillian Bridge — Se- cond Monday in Feb., and Mon. before Whit Sun., unless that falls on the 12th of May, and then ih » Monday fortnight for cattle. Treic 20 LIST OF 2Vcm; — Holy Thursday, and July 23, for cattle. Trewann — May 1, and Oct. 10, for cattle. Truro — Wed. in Midlent, Wed. in Whitsun week, Nov. 19, December 8, Cattle. Tuesday, May 20,andSep . 14,for cattle . St. Veep — Wed. nearest June 24. FAIRS. Wadebridge — May 12, June 22, Oct. 10, for cattle. Wainhouse Corwcr— June 24, and Sept. 29. Week, St. Mary, July 29, Sept. 19, Dec. 4, and Wed. before Christmas- day, for cattle, &c. West Looe — May 6, for cattle, &c. END OF THE FAIRS, WORKS WORKS PUBLISHED ON THE SUBJECT OF CORNWALL. " The Survey of Cornwall, by Richard Carew, Esq. 4to. 1602;" republished in 1723, and again in 1769. " SpecuU Britannia Pars ; a Topographical and Historical Description of Cornwall,^ &c. with maps and views, " by John Norden." 4to. This work w;is written in the year 1584, but not printed till the year 1728. " Observations on the Antiquities ^ Historical and Monumental^ of the County of Cornwall ; con- sisting of several Essays on the first Inhabitants," &c. &c. with various plates. By Dr. Wm. Borlase, Rector of Ludgvan, in this county. 1754. Repub- lished 1769, with several additions, under the title of " Antiquities, Historical and Monu nental," &c. folio. And another Work, by the same Author, entitled, " jYatural History of Cornwall^'' with many particulars relating io the Mires, Laws of the Stannaries, Customs of the Inhabitants, Cornish Language, &c. and near thirty plates af the princi- pal Seats and natural Productions of the County. Folio, 1758, Oxford. '■^ Mineralogia (orviihiensis i a Treatise on Mi- nerals, Mines, and Mining, &c. &c. By W. Pryce, of Redruth." Folio, 1778, London. And by the same Author, " Archceologia Cor nub ri tannic a, or an Essay to preserve the Ancient Cornish Lan- guage; containing the Rudiments of that Dialect, in a Cornish Grammar, and Cornish English Voca- bulary. 4to. 1790, Sherborne. 22 LIST OF TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTIOXS. *' An Account of the Islands of Scilly, and De- scription of Cornwall.'' By Heath, with cuts. 8vo. 1750. The Archaeologia, Vol. III. contains " Observa- tions, by the Hon. Daines Harrington, on the Ex- piring State of the Cornish Language," and- in Vol. V. further information on the Continuance of the Cornish Dialect, in a letter from Mr. Barrington to John Lloyd, Esq. *' An Account of a Current that prevails to the westward of Scilly.'' By Major Rennel ; with a chart. 4to. 1793. ** TJie Laws arid Customs of the Stannaries in the Counties of Cornwall and Devon, revised and cor- rected according to the ancient and modern Prac tice," &c. By Thomas Deane, gent. Folio, 1759. " Letters, &c. to the Proprietors of the Tia Mines of Cornwall, with a View to open an exten- sive Trade of Tin to India, Persia, and China, with Specimens of Tin Foil." By George Unwin. 8vo. 1790, London. *' Specimens of British Minerals,^' chiefly the produce of Cornwall. By Philip Rashleigh, Esq. Selected from his own cabinet; with many plates, beautifully coloured. 4to. ^* Chemical History, S^c. of the Fossils of Corn wall." By Klaproth. 8vo. 1787. " The Beauties of England and Wales," by John Britton and Edward Wedlake Brayley, 8vo. 1801, London, gives a very elegant and comprehensive Description of the County of Cornwall, with some beautiful Views. ** Report of the Committee of the House of Com- mons,'' on the State of the Copper Mines in thi» County. Folio, 1801, published by order of the House. The LIST OF TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCaiPTlONS. 23 The three first Tolumes of a very respectable work have lately appeared, entitled " The History/ of Cornwall, Civil, Military, Religious, Archi- tectural, Agricultural, Commercial, Biographical, and Miscellaneous." By the Rev. R. Polwhele, ef Polwhele, and Vicar of Manaocan. 4to. 1803, with plates. This promises to be a very complete account of the county, and worthy the pen of the historian of Devonshire. The Philosophical Transactions, Nos. 401 and 402, contain Dr. T. Nicholls's Observations on the Mines ; No. 458, Dr. Williaras*s Attempt to exa- mine the Cornish Barrows ; and No. 498, Dr. Bor- lase's Remarks on the Cornish Diamonds. In Vol. L. is an account of subterraneous trees at Mount's Bay. In Vol. LI. part 1, are some particulars of Roman Antiquities found at Bossens, near St. Mi- chael's Mount. In Vol. LII. part 2, a relation of extraordinary agitations of the waters in Mount's Bay, &c. And in Vol. LVI. are two letters con- cerning a specimen of native Tin. All the latter are by Dr. Borlase. In the Transactions for 1801 is an account of Hurland Mine, by the Rev. Ma- lachi Hitchens ; and two papers by the Count de Bourbon and Richard Chenevix, Esq. on the ar- seniates of copper and of iron, found in Hue Gor- land Mine. There may be also found descriptions of many places in the county of Cornwall, with various de- tached accounts of its natural products, &c. in Grose's Antiquities, in Gilpin's Picturesque Tour to the Western Counties, 8vo. 1798 ; the Rev. Mr. Shaw's Tour to the West of England, 8vo. 17195 Dr. Maton's " Tour to the Western Counties," 2 vols. Svo. 1797, and Lipscomb's " Journey through Devon and Cornwall," Svo. 1799. And many par- ticulars of the history and remote trade of Corn- wall are contained in the Rev. Mr. Polwhele's History of Devonshire. Speed'f S4 LIST OF TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTIOXS. Speed's Map of this County was published in 1610. Several other maps have been engraved: but the most accurate is that in seven sheets, on a scale of half an inch to a mile, from an actual sur- vey, by Thomas Martyn, in 1748. General View of the Agriculture of the County of Cornwall, drawn up for the Consideration of the Board of Agriculture and Internal Improve- ment. By G. B. Worgan. Magna Britannia; being a concise Topographi- cal Account of the several Counties of Great Bri- tain. By the Rev. Daniel Lysons, A.A- F.R.S. F.A. and L.S., and Samuel Lysons, Esq. F.R.S. and F.A.S., Keeper of His Majesty's Records in the Tower of London, Vol. III. vGENEKAL GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTY OF CORNWALL. SITUATION, BOUNDARIES, AND EXTENT. CORNWALL forms the most western and southern extremity of England ; its wes- tern termination is the Land's End. Its most southern point is the Lizard. It is bounded by the sea on the north, west, and south ; and its eastern end butts against Devonshire. The river Tamar, which runs between the two counties, may, allowing a few exceptions, be called the natural and general boundary of Cornwall to- wards the east, till it joins the ocean near Ply- mouth, after a southern course of about forty miles. The form of this county is a cornu- copia. As to its extent, the two most distant points in the county, are the north eastern angle of the parish of Morwinstow, near the source of the Tamar to the east, and the promontory called the Land's End, in the parish of Sennan to the west, a distance of 78 miles and a half in length, in a line nearly south-west and north- east. Its greatest breadth from Morwinstow on the north to the Ram Head on the south, is about 43 miles and a half; its medium breadth between Padstow and Fowey, about 18 miles, and its least breadth from Mount's Bay on the south to Hayle river on the north, not more than four miles. Its computed surface, however, is 210 miles ; this statement is made according to Mr. Martyn's map done from actual survey, from which it also appears that the whole area D contains 26 CORNWALL. contains 753,484 statute acres, or 1185 square miles. The total population of Cornwall, ac' cording to the returns of 1811, was 216,667, making an increase within the last ten years of 28,398, since the census of 1801. This county and Devonshire was inhabited by the ancient Britons called Dunuiouii, and Danmonii, from dun, a hill, and moina, a mine ; because these parts have always been famous for their hills of ten mines. NAME. By the later Roman writers this part of Bri- tain is called Cornubja, by the British inha- bitants Kernaw; probably from the land ter- minating in a poiut and projecting into the sea in the form of a horn, Corn signifying in the British a horn, a promontory; Kern the plu- ral of the same word. The ancient inhabitants were also called Carnabii or CernyWt and Gwyr Cernyw, or men of the promontory. They occupied the whole of the tract now called Cornwall, except a small part lying on the north side of the river Tamar. Dr. Borlase, the very respectable historian of the antiquities and natural history of this coun- ty, supposes that the Latin name Cornubia was ** retained till the Saxous imposed the name of Weales on the Britons driven by them west of the rivers Severn and Dee, calling their country, jQ the Latin tongue, Wallia ; after which, find- ing the Britons bad retreated not only into Wales, but into the more western extremities of the. island, tbie I^atinists changed Cornubia into Cornwallia ; CLIMATE* ^K Cornwallia j a name not only expressive of* the many natural promontories of the county, but also that the inhabitants were Britons of the same nation and descent as those of Wales ; and from this Cornwallia is derived the present name of Cornwall.*' The local division of the county is 9 hun* dreds, 201 parishes, 27 market towns, and about 15,000 houses. Cornwall raises 1000 militia in the county, and 1000 for the stannaries, and sends 44 members to parliament. The advantages which this county derives from its maritime situation are incalculable; four parts out of five of its outline being ex- posed to the sea. It is this which fills the bays and harbours, makes a number of fishing creeks, and brings the native products, sand, sea-weed, and fish, as well as foreign merchandize, home to the doors in many places. Its numerous promontories, notwithstanding, are allowed to augment the distresses of sailors in stormy wea- ther, and ships by the inequality of the tides on this coast, often mistake one another, or are warped out of their true course. These tides, irregular from the prominence of the head- lands, are rendered more so at the extremity of Cornwall, by the Sylleh (Scilly) Islands, which narrow the channel whether the tide sets to the north or to the south, and consequently in- creasing the velocity of the current occasion a more than ordinary indraught into both chan- nels. Climate, According to the most recent and accurate D 2 observations 28 CORNWALL. observations on this head, its general character, like all other peuiusuldted situations, lying far to the southward and westward, is inconstancy as to wind and rain ; and mildness as to heat and cold. Nor is it so subject to thunder- storms as some inland counties are. There is a saying in Cornwall, " That it will bear a shower every week day, and two upon a Sun- day." Another usual saying is, " There cannot be too much rain before Midsummer, nor too little after." It is indeed found that when other parts of England suffer by drought, Cornwall has seldom reason to complain. The cause of more frequent rains here is, that for three fourths of the year the wind blows from the in- termediate points of the west and south, and sweeping over a large tract of the Atlantic Ocean, collects vast bodies of clouds, which being broken by the narrow ridge-like hills of the county, descend in frequent showers. Still the rains here, though frequent, cannot be said to be heavy or excessive. The situation of Cornwall is also a reason why the north-west winds are extremely violent and desolating on the north side of the county, but are generally dry and bring fair weather. The plants, shrubs, and even the most hardy trees on the sea-coast, sustain much injury from the violence of the westerly wind and the salt spray of the sea ; hence crops of wheat and turnips have been partially or totally destroyed, in j)roportion to their distance from the coast. After a storm, the plants have their roots much torn, and their leaves corroded and shri- velled CLIMATE. 29 veiled as if scorched. Trees and shrubs shrink and lean away to the eastward, and appear as if clipped by the gardener's shears. The tama- risk is the only shrub that bears the sea ain However, the air of Cornwall passing over the sea, accounts for its mild and equal tempera- ture ; so that balm of Gilead, hydrangea, ge- raniums, myrtles, and many other tender plants and shrubs live and thrive in the open air. Snow seldom lies more than four or five days on the coast, and a skaiter may sometimes pass a winter in Cornwall without partaking of his favourite amusement. A kind of languid spring prevails through the winter, and is too often disappointed by blighting north-east winds in March, April, or May. As to the effects of the climate upon the people, these are particularly healthy and genial, and there are numerous in- stances of longevity. The whole county of Cornwall, with few ex- ceptions, is remafkable for inequality of surface. Some of the hills are very steep and tediously prolong a journey; and as the great post roads run for many miles together over rugged, naked, and uncultivated heaths and moors, the traveller is impressed with a more unfavourable opinion than the country deserves. The minute ob- server, however, will often find it pleasingly broken into hill and dale; some of the valleys are beautifully picturesque, and richly diversi fied with corn, woods, coppices, orchards, run ning waters, and verdant meadows. The ad mirers of sublime scenery will be highly grati- fied in viewing the stupendous rocks, which D 3 form 30 CORNWALL. form the great barriers against the ocean, par- ticularly about the Land's End and Lizard; and the numerous Druidical and Roman remains of karns, rock basons, cromlechs, circles, reli- gious and military enclosures, dispersed over the country, will be highly interesting to the antiquary, whilst the agriculturist will see much to approve and much to reprehend. The north and south parts of the county are divided by a ridge running from east to west, like a distorted back bone. The highest hills are Caradon, Roughtor, Brown Willy, and Hinsborough. Caradon is 1208 feet above the level of the sea, and Brown Willy 1368. It has been remarked, that the harvest in Cornwall, though the most southern county in England, is later than in the midland counties, owing to the sea breezes keeping the air cool. Kear the Lizard Point, there have been frequent instances of barley being sown, reaped, and thrashed in less than nine weeks, and sometimes sooner. And as the sea air suffers no forest trees to grow upon the coast, it is only in the sheltered vallies that woods of any size are to be found. Rivers. Nature has been bountiful in her supplies and distribution of water in this county. Springs are abundant on the high, as well as the low grounds, which, gliding away to the vallies, unite, and form numerous streams, rivulets, and some not inconsiderable rivers. The most considerable are the Tamar, the Lynker, the Looe, the Fowey, the Camel or Alan, RIVERS. 31 Alan, and tlie Fal. The Tamar rises on the summit of a moor in the parish of Morwinstow, the most northern in the county ; it immediately takes a southern direction, which, with very lit- tle variation, it pursues for a course of forty miles, collecting several tributary streams, when it falls into the spacious harbour of Hamoaze. This river, with a trifling exception, forms the boundary line between Cornwall and Devon- shire. The Lynker rises about eight miles west of Launceston, and after running a devious course of twenty-four miles, it spreads itself into the form of a lake, named Lynker Creek, and join- ing the Tamar below Saltash, issues with it into Hamoaze. The Looe rises in the parish of St. Cleer, and running a course of seven or eight miles, meets the tide at Sand Place, and falls into the sea between the two ancient boroughs of East and West Looe. Fowey Well, near Roughtor, is the source of Fowey river; it flows some miles in a southern direction, meets the tide at Lestwithel bridge, whence it is navigable to Fowey, where it forms a harbour and joins the sea, after a course of upwards of twenty miles. The river Fal rises near the Roach Rock, and aft^r a course of twelve miUs, meets the tide a mile below Tregony, and passing Tregothnan park, joins Truro and St. Clement's Creeks, which are navigable to Truro quay and Tresi- lian bridge ; from its junction with the above •creeks, after flowing four or five miles, it forms the 32 CORNWALL. the principal branches of Falmouth harbour, named Carrik and Kingsroad. The river Alan, or Camel, the greatest on the north coast, has two sources, one about two mites north of Camelford, the other under Roughtor. These rivers join below Kea-bridge ; and after a course of eight or nine miles, meet the tide above Wade-bridge, whence the stream is navigable to Padstow Harbour. On all these rivers, as well as on others of less note, great quantities of sea-sand are carried in barges for manure. Lakes or Pools. — There are three waters in Cornwall which come under this description; the first in point of extent is the Looe, lying between the parishes of Sithney on the west, and Wendron on the east. It may be about two miles long, and one mile broad, formed by a bar of sand, pebbles, and shingle, forced up by the sea against this creek by the south-west winds. This bar dams up the waters which come down principally from the Looe river. It is from three, to upwards of twenty feet deep, and aflfords water for two creeks called Penrose and Carniinow. A peculiar and delicious trout is an inhabitant of this lake. Dozmery. — This is a circular piece of water, lying about four miles north of St. Neot's church, in the parish of St. Cleer ; it may be about a mile in circumference, and from nine to fifteen feet deep. It is formed and supplied by waters which drain from the surrounding hills and aaoory grounds. Swan Pool — Is about half a mile long, and a quarter AGRICULTURE. 38 quarter wide ; it lies between the parishes of Budoc and Fahiiouth, in the hundred of Ker- rier, and is severed from the sea by a bar of sand and shingle. It had its name from the swans kept in it formerly. The eels of this lake are reckoned extremely good. AGRICULTURE. With respect to the soil of the county ; in the western parts, and those districts where the granite or moor-stone prevails, it is not un- common to see the surface of the ground en- cumbered with immense fragments of the rock, disposed in broad slabs and huge blocks, some rising to a considerable height. Yet such is the industry and perseverance of the farmers, that they cultivate the intervening soil, using the pick-axe for breaking the ground where there is not room for the plough. The Mines. Nothing can be more dreary than the sur- face and scenery in the mining districts. The principal mines commence about St. Austel, thence, with an interval of rich land, westward to Kenwyn, Kea, Gwenap, Stythians, Wendron, Breage on the South, and to St. Agnes, Redruth, lllogan, Camborn, and Gwinear, in a straight line through Lelant, Touednack, and Morvah, to the parish of St. Just. There are also mines to the eastward, bordering upon Devonshire, on Hengstou Downs, Linkenhorn, and Caradon. Soils. The soils of Cornwall may be arranged under the three following heads: — 1st. The black growan or gravelly. 2d. The shelfy or slaty. 3d. 3i CORNWALL. 3cl. Loams differing in texture, colours, and de- grees of ferlility. Growan consists of a light, raooFA', black earth, intermixed with small par- ticles of the granite rock, called growan, from grow, a Cornish word for gravel, with which it is more or less charged. The earthy parts of this are so exceedingly light, that, in a dry summer, asDr.Borlase observes, the sun quickly exhales its moisture ; and in a wet summer or winter much of the vegetable soil is washed from the tilled grounds. — This soil is in general very productive. The shelfy or slaty soil, form- ing iije second class, is by far the most preva- lent, and derives its name from Laving a large proportion of the schistus or rotten slaty matter mixed with a light loam. — The disposition of its lumina renders it fertile, or otherwise a greedy, huijify soil. This soil is not unfrequently mi.ed with more or less of the quartz, pro- vintialiy called spar ; and according as it pre- vails its value is diminished. If a dun or iron st^n;' be met with, forming a substratum, this is a fortunate circumstance, being a certain in- dication of the incumbent soil, Tliere are some very lich and fertile patches of the loamy soils interspersed in different parts of the county, and the low grounds, declivities, banks of the rivers, and town lands, are composed of them. Some of these incumbent on a subsoil of clay partake of ii more or less in their composition. Of the clai/s there are endless varieties ; good bricks are made from some of them : and in Leiant parish they have an excellent kind for making furnaces and otcus. A clay of a slaty nature, but AGRICULTURE. 35 but soapy to the touch, near Liskeard, has fer- tilizing powers ; hut the serpentine, with veins of steatite near the Lizard, are among the most curious of all the earthy substances found in Cornwall. This is commonly called soap rock ; it is soft, and of various colours , ihe purest white is most coveted for porcelain ; and from the parish of St. Stepken*s Brannel, large quantities of a white clay are shipped annually for the porcelain and earthen-ware manufactories. Stones. The worst sort of stones found in many parts of Cornwall is an opaque whitish debased crys- tal, provincially, but not properly, called spar; and this lies loose on the surface of the ground in almost every parish, in all sizes, from that of rocks to granules. In some places it is found a few inches under ground like a close pavement ; and, till these stones can be eradicated by digg- ing, ploughing, or picking, it is thought little hopes of success can be entertained even from the best modes of cultivation. Mr. James, of St. Agnes, cleared a large field of spar by screening the whole mass of spar and earth as deep as the yellow sub-stratum, in the same manner as masons screen the earth for their mortar; and the experiment answered well, al- though it cost 401. per acre. The land was afterwards let for three pounds an acre, and Ihe stones were purchased to make a road, and they are not inferior to growan for this purpose. This stone also makes a good facing for fences, and, from its angular, rough surface, forms a safe pavement in pitchwork Another 36 CORNWALL. Another stone very general throughout Corn- wall is distinguished by the name of killas, though Dr. Woodward says every stone is so called in Cornwall that splits with a grain. It is a schistos, and varies iu texture and colour, some being hard, others more friable and la- minated ; the colours are blueish, yellow, and a ferrugineous brown ; and the whole form ex- cellent materials for building. Slate, There are quarries of slate on the north and south coasts of the country ; that called Den- nybole, near Tintagel, is supposed to afford the finest in England. St. Neots, St. Germans, and Padstow, have slate quarries, but of an inferior quality. In some parts there are strata of free- stone, in quality approaching to Portland stone, of great value for building, as is another stone of a coarser texture, the moor-stone or granite. In the western parts of the county this is so plentiful, that it presents itself to the traveller in large slabs on all the tors or rocky hills, as well as on moors and in valleys, &c. It is adapted to a great variety of uses. Many of the churches and gentlemen's seats are built with this stone. It is wrought into columns eight or ten feet long, which are used as supporters to sheds and out-houses, as gateposts, and bridges over rivulets ; and is also the material of com- mon rollers, malting troughs, salting and pig troughs ; in short it is a highly useful stone, and forms an article of commerce. Of this stone there are several sorts ; but, besides stones of use, Cornwall affords many of ornaments ; such aye AGRICULTURE. 37 are some of the marbles, pebbles, flints, serpen- tine or porphyry, talc, stalactites, and the as- bestos and small gems. The curious investiga- tor of fossils will discover a great variety of these, many of them beautiful in colour ; and some clear and transparent, which have obtained the name of Cornish diamonds. Cornwall is famous for tin and copper mines. Iron, lead, and even gold and silver are men- tioned among its metallic productions. But husbandry, as Dr. Boriase observes, can employ and subsist "a people without mining; but mining can do neither without husbandry." The Doctor wrote his observations about iifty years ago ; agriculture has since be^n more attended to. Even the uncultivated parts of Cornwall have now their appropriate uses. A hardy race of herds and flocks depasture the coarse herbage of the more level parts ; goats climb and browse the rpcky summits, and the wild conies feed and burrow among the sandy hillocks. These lands in Cornwall present a wide field for speculation. The pasturage of the moors, downs, and, crofts, as the wastes here are called, is generally con- sidered as belonging to the tenantry in the right of some manor or lordships; and consequently, as in most cases of common-land, the pasturage is by no means equal to the stock. — A general enclosure bill would therefore be a public benefit. Enclosm^es, As enclosing has considerable eftect upon rural economy, it has been remarked, that though E there 38 CORNWALL. there has been no case of enclosure in this county till very lately, yet there are numerous instances of parcels of laud being taken up from the waste and enclosed, with temporary dead fences, for the purpose of securing two or three crops of corn, after which the land is consigned to waste again. Of late years some farms have been considerably extended by enclosing many con- tiguous acres with good substantial stone or turf fences for permanent improvement ; for in- stance, a considerable tract of waste land has been recently enclosed and cultivated with great effect by Charles Rashleigh, Esq. near St Aus- tel; E. J. Glynn, Esq. of Glynn, has followed this example ; and Lord Grenville afterwards obtained an act for enclosing a very great ex- tent of waste lands in the vicinity of Boconnoe. Fences here are of three classes : stone hedges principally in the western part and the sea-coast ; earth hedges, capped with stone, brushwood, &c. chiefly used on the moors ; and, lastly, hedges planted with thorns, hazel, and other brushwood, or trees, and formed generally of earth alone, faced with sods or stone. The latter class, upon which bushes and trees are planted, is raised much higher than in any other countries. In situations fa? vourable to the growth of wood, these hedges find the farm-house in fuel ; and these, in low and swampy grounds, act as so many open drains: they also carry a great deal of grass on their sides, whilst the shelter they afford to cattle, and to the tender grasses, is very great. All injury, from confined circulation of air to AGRICULTURE. 39 to corn is prevented by the hedges about it being cut, plashed, and double-dyked, " that is, all the wood from the middle of the hedge is first cut out, leaving a sufficient quan- tity on each hedge for the purpose of pJashing, which is done by cutting the plants about half through, fastening them down to the hedge, and casting on them the earth and sub-boil found in the ditch. This is generally done when lands are sown to wheat ; but the advan- tages are so many to the occupiers of these feflces, that the objection of a waste of land is futile. In the mean while the attention of the farmers, whose lands are exposed to the western ocean, has been directed to the tamarix gal- lica, which forms an admirable shelter ; and, being of quick growth, soon comes to answer the end proposed. A hedge of it, planted about seven years ago, has risen to twelye feet in height, and is feathered to the bottom. The tamarisk bears cutting perfectly well, and may be kept close and low to much advantage, — Tamarisk, however, will never stand the frost ; and is, of course, untie for situations exposed to severe weather. Ploughing and Fallowing. As the generality of farmers, in Cornwall, have an idea, that there is nothing like corn in sacks, the tillage for white crops is large ; probably, one full third of the cultivated lands are under the plough. The mode of plough- ing, termed ribbing, in Cornwall, is turning to rot, or combing ; but if the land is intended for the immediate reception of seed, where the e2 ground 40 CORNWALL. ground is moderately level, the common coun- try plough is used ; where hilly, the turn-wrist plough. The draught is occasionally performed by four or six oxen in yoke, commonly with two oxen and two horses, and soraeliiues by two horses alone, with a driver g< neraily, or the ploughman with whip-reins. With eiiiier of these they turn a furrow, from four to six inches in depth, and six or eight in breadth, laying it more or less on its edge, accordmg to the crop intended to be sown. Harroiving. This is performed by oxen or horses. Scarify- ing, scnfflinij,ortormenting, in some few instances, supersede the use of the plough for a barley tilth after a crop of turnips. As to fallowing, tliere is scarcely any branch of husbandry, in Cornwall, so incompletely performed a^ this. The general course of crops here is said to be extremely reprehensible, which is too frequently evinced by the wretched, exhausted, foul ap- pearance of the grounds laid down with grass seeds ; nor can it be otherwise after having been cropped with corn, as long as they will bear any. Hoeing. There are however many instances in oppo- sition to this impoverishing system. The Eas- tern dictrict and some intelligent cultivators in the West, shew the vast utihty of the diligent use of the hoe ; not only in the growing crop, but that which succeeds it ; for the same reason the turnip culture is rapidly increasing here. Potatoes are hoed, but the culture is not sulii- ciently AGRICULTURE. 41 ciently extensive to be named amon«T the hoeing crops. The following rotation of crops pre- vails in Cornwall. No. I. Wheat, barley, oats, with grass seeds. II. Turnips ; barley ; wheat, barley, or oats, with grass seeds. III. Wheat ; turnips ; turnips, barley, or oats, with grass seeds. IV. Potatoes; wheat; or barley ; if the latter, with seeds. V. Wheat, barley, with grass seeds. The second course of these ruin- ous crops was introduced in the year 1801, when the highprice of corn induced many farmers to adopt it. It is however much to be lamented that a custom arising from accidental circum- stance should still in some degree be continued. Sowing. The crops commonly cultivated here are wheat, barley, and oats ; the avena nuda of Ray, in Cornwall called pilezy is also sown in small patches in the western district ; it bears the price of wheat, and is used for fattening pigs, or for rearing calves. The green and root crops in common cultivation here, are red and yellow clovers, trefoil, and rye-grass (called cuver in Cornwall) turnips, ruta baga, potatoes, and in some instances, flat-pole, or drum head cabbage. Reaping and Shocking, The manner of sowing is almost universally by the broad cast method. Reaping and har- vest is performed by small hooks or sickles ; women and men, even girls and boys make up the busy group. The scythe is seldom used, and only when there is a want of reapers. As the wheat is cut it is immediately bound into E 3 sheaves; 42 CORNWALL. sheaves ; and in the eastern part of the county put into shocks of eight or ten each, with a cap formed of a single sheaf, Avith the ears turned downM^ards, and if the weather permit, carried in a few days ; but in the western part it is formed into what are called arish or errish mows, where it remains for a fortnight or more in three rows. The barley harvest usually com- mences in August, and is cut with the scythe ; barley bread was formerly eaten in almost every farm-house, but is now confined to small farmers and labourers. The potatoe oat has been lately introduced into this county, and appears hea- vier, at least two or three pounds per >Vin- chester, than good oats of the couhuoii sort. Potatoes. These in Cornwall are at all times a standing dish at the humble board of the labourer. Two of the red kind have been long established here, the painted lady and \he painted lord ; a varied red and white smooth skin distinguishes the former, and a red rough skin the latter ; the lady at present takes the precedence at table, coming earlier to maturity than the lord ; the old red rough, formerly common in the growan soils, is hardly now to be met with. Cornwall has also the merit of supplying other counties with large quantities of potatoes. Most of the labouring people keep a pig or two, and by this root alone feed and fatten them, making deli- cious pork. Trees — Cyder, Fruit trees are every where found to thrive, particularly the apple ; and in the eastern part of AGRICULTURE. 43 of the county a great deal of cyder is made of very good quality, particularly near Launceston: very little is produced west of Truro. The mulberry tree flourishes well in Cornwall in the western parts, and trees of most kinds will grow and thrive on high plantations even when ex- posed to the sea. The trees which form these are the pineaster, spruce, Scotch and silver firs, the larch, Dutch, Cornish, and wychelm.^, beech, oak, ash, Spanish, and horse chesnut, lime, alders, and the plane tree, which was in- troduced into Cornwall in 1723, by Sir John St. Aubyn of Clowance. The pineaster and Scotch fir are found to be the best nurses, and consequently are arranged so as to take off the brunt of the sea-winds ; and as most of the proprietors of the lands are directing their at- tention to planting, in thirty or forty years Cornwall will present extensive woodland sce- nery, both useful and ornamental. Manure, Besides sea-wrack or oreweed, sea-sand is an- other inestimable treasure in Cornwall. Long experience has proved that sea-sand is a ferti- lizer of tlie soil ; good for corn, causing it to kern, or corn well, as well as for pulse or roots, and excellent for pasture. It is frequently car- ried fifteen njiles inland. The sand, highest in value, is taken up about Falmouth Harbour, in Carreck-road. Mixed with some sand there is a slimy earthy matter (the recrement of leaves, wood, and perhaps of animal remains ; this is called leg or ligger. All along the north coast, from the Land's End to Bude Haven, the 44 CORNWALL. the sands are very good, containing a large portion of shelly fragQients. Farm Houses and Offices. Blany old farm houses in this county have a singular appearance, being built with mud walls and covered with thatch of wheaten straw ; the lower divisions consist of a kitchen, and an apartment dignified with the name of parlour, or provincially the higher side, a cellar, and a dairy room ; but these latter are frequently under a lean-to roof; the rooms very low, not cieled, and two bed-chambers over them ; the floor of the chambers are of oak plank ; the ground floor, earth, lime ash, or flag-stone. The farm offices, built of the same materials, consisting of a barn, cow, and ox sheds and hog- sties, stand in confusion about the dwelling. The intervening and circumjacent grounds are called the farmer's town place ; for, as to that essential appendage, a regular farm yard, it is a convenience not often met with, even at this day, in any part of the county. The modern farm houses are built upon a more liberal plan, the walls of stone, and the roofs of slate. The farm offices also notV as* sume a more regular mode in their arrangement and construction; the pbn adopted in the latter buildings, is to throw every convenience pos- sible under one roof, particularly in what is called a chall ham ; the ox and cow challs, being nnder the chamber for threshing the corn. Cottages, Carriages, and Implements, Of the cottages in this county it is observed, the meanest generallv, has that source of com- fort. AGRICULTURE. 4o fort, a garden attached to it. Respecting car- riages, no county affords a greater variety of wheel and other vehicles than this. In most parts the waggon, the wain, one and two horse carts, the ox butt, gurry butt, shde and sledge, may be met with. Their construction varies according to their intended use. A waggon pe- culiar to Cornwall is a light and really elegant carriage used for carrying hay and corn in har- vest time, faggot wood, &c. The body is open, a lade of five bars fixed before and behind, gives it great length, and an arch over the hind wheels, gives it breadth ; the fore wheels turn clear un- der the body, so that it can sweep round in a very narrow compass; the load is secured by two ropes tightened by a winch fixed behind the waggon ; it carries about 300 sheaves of corn. A tongue (or middle) tree, or shafts, are alter- nately fixed to the axle of the fore wheels, as it is meant to be drawn by oxen or horses. Another simple carriage is the sledge or dray, to be met with on most farms, shod with thick rough pieces of timber ; to some two low wheels are fixed. The ox-butt is a kind of cart, of long standing in Cornwall ; its body is nearly an ob- long square ; many of them have a heavy iron axle fixed to one wheel, the other one turning round upon it by which the draught is very much increased ; lately most farmers have adopted tiie wooden axles with iron arms, on which both wheels go round. The slide butt, is merely a strong oblong box, holding about three or four common wheel-barrows of earth or com- post. Some of these with wheels, are called gurrij 46 CORNWALL. gurry butts. Another vehicle called dung pots is in use here for cariyiog dressing a short distance; they are slung over a horse, mule or ass, having wooden pack saddles at their sides ; the contents dvop through a falling door at the bottom, on each side the animal. These are in- dispensable conveyances on the hilly ground. Longhand short crooks as they are termed, are also used for carrying of sbeaf corn, hay, fag- got, billet wood, slate, &c. Besides hand-bar rows, grass barrows are used on a few farms, where they adopt the economical, and highly to be commended practice of soiling cattle in the houses and yards ; they are so constructed as to hold a large quantity, the weight of which bear- ing upon the wheel or wheels, requires only the exertion of pushing it forward. As to ploughs, some few wheel, foot, and other country ploughs have been introduced, and trials made with them ; but the old Cornish plough still main- tains its ground. Harrows being either single or double, and of the old-fashioned form, are of all implements here the most defective. Some few gentlemen have the improved harrows of other counties. The implement called a tor- mentor is in general use here. Cook's cultivator is coming mto use ; and thrashing machines are become very general, mostly worked by hor- ses, a few by water or steam. The prices vary from 301. to*^ 1001. ; and a thrashing machine to be wrought by hand, has been invented by a CoiTiish gentleman, but not answering, a horse and horse tackle have been applied to it. The usual manner of thrashing corn in the lower parts of AGRICULTURE. 47 of Cornwall, is upon a frame which they call ham boards^ formed of four or five sycamore or ash plank, or three ledges, or transverse beams ; this frame is about seven feet by four, and about ten inches in height, care is taken that each plank is set about the third of an inch from its neighbour, that the graia may fall through. By this mode, little or no corn is bruised or wasted. Wheat in some places, is beat out on a barrel, or in an inclined plane, by women. Cattle. The celebrated Mr, Bakewell visiting this county, candidly observed to Sir Harry Tre- lawny, who had introduced some of the Dishley breed, that he had no occasion to send so far for neat cattle, while he could have as good as Devonshire produced. But it is only among the more enlightened and spirited breeders, that the genuine North Devon are to be met with. Still the larger breed of cattle, of which there are great numbers in Cornwall, are an- nually sold to graziers, &c. There are many fine models of these, dispersed over the county. Lord Falmouth's bull i-n 1808, was equal, if not superior to most. To Mr. J. Peters of Creeg- murrion, the county is indebted for his various and excellent exhibitions of cattle and sheep at the different meetings of the Cornwall Agri- cultural Society. The Rev. H. Tremayne, and the Rev. R. Walker, as well as Messrs. Jefferies and Pike, have excellent cattle for proportion and symmetry. Some farmers however still pre- fer the bony system, " give me," says the still prejudiced ^mer, *• a snug tight bullock, with a stout 48 CORNWALL. Stout frame of bone, to build my flesh and fat upon, and a good thick hide to keep out the cold and wet ; they be strong and hardy, Sir, cost little or nothing in keep, range the moors, lire and thrive on furze and heath in summer, and in winter too with a little straw ; get as fat as moles when put on turnips ; the butcher likes them ; they tallow well, and hide tells in the tanners' scale." Such is the colloquial in- formation from the more rustic sous of agricul- ture. The late Lord Elliot introduced a large long horned breed from Gloucestershire; some of them yet remain about St. Germains. The Irish cattle in Cornwall are remarkable for thickness of hide, are bad provers, and coarse flesh ; the Scotch thrive well, and make excellent beef. The native cattle are very small, of a black co- lour, short horned, coarse boned and large oflfal ; very hardy black cows and bulls, of a small size Imve been met with, weighing from three to four hundred. In no county does the ox stand in higher estimation for all kinds of work than in Corn- wall. Oxen are every where to be met with drawing the butt, the wain, and the waggon, on the road ; or the plough and harrow in the fields. They are shod, or as it is provincially termed cued, and are extremely docile and ac- tive, going at a full trot with the empty car- riages in the bustling seasons of hay time and harvest, and driven by a little boy, who cheers and excites them by the song and the goad. Cattle in Cornwall are pretty healthv, and it is well AGRICULTURE. 49 well they are so, as there are no very skilful farmers, and there is a disease called tlie head fiay, which will soon kill the animals, as the head swells to an enormous size, unless two deep incisions are made under the tongue and filled with salt ; these effect a cure almost imme- diately. Under this head it must be observed, that from the general deficiency of house rooui, and comfortable farm yards, as also of more extensive winter green crops, all cattle, parti- cularly young stock, sustain much injury for want of more generous food, and wurm shelter, and not one quarter of the dung is raised, that might be. Gentlemen, and some superior farmers, however, house all their cattle, givitjg their cows, cabbage, rape, the tops of turnips, and r^ita baga, with straw and hay. Horses, Few horses in Cornwall are kept for ostenta- tion, or to live in idleness and luxury. The gen- tleman's horse is often put to the cart or the plough, when not wanted for the coach or cha- riot. The farm horses are excellently adapted to the hilly surface of the county; they are rather small, but hardy and active, and it may be truly said, they " eat no idle oats." Most larmers keep up their stock, by breeding a colt or two annually ; but one eighth of the horses, for saddle and draught, are supposed to be brought into the county by eastern dealers. Cornis/i Sheep. Mr. Worgan observes, that curiosity induced him to see what they still call the true Cornish breed of sheep ; " the animals pointed out to F me 50 CORNWALL. me as such, have grey faces and legs, coarse short tliick necks, stand lower before than be- hind, narrow backs, flattish sides, a fleece of coarse wool, weighing about two or three pounds of eight ounces, and their mutton seldom fat, from eight to ten pounds per quarter." From the various crosses which have been made by rams introduced into this county, a pure Cor- nish sheep is now a rare animal, nor from its properties, need the total extinction be la- mented. With respect to the wool, it is a pretty general opinion, that the climate and soil of Cornwall are particularly favourable for the finest fleeces ; but for the want of a wool fair, and the wool dealers giving no better price for fine than for coarse wools, the object of the wool grower has been weight, and not fineness of fleece, for this reason the gentlemen here first turned their attention to a wool fair. Mr. Worgan further observes, that " the mon- grel flocks, that live upon the downs, heaths, and moors, summer and winter, are a hardy race, weighing 10 or 12lbs. per quarter; the mutton very good ; bearing fleeces from 2 to 4lbs. each, of moderate quality. Some have horns ; they are not nice in feeding, for I have seen them cropping the furze and the heath as well as depasturing the grasses ; they are as active as deer, and if they cannot leap over a fence, they will contrive to creep through it, so that they are a great nuisance to enclosures, near the commons particularly, when they have got the sbab, or skab." On the towans, or sand hillocks on some parts of the north cbast, they AGRICULTURE. 51 they have a small compact sheep, the mutton of which is of a particularly superior flavour, weighing about eight pounds per quarter ; the fleece of finer wool approaching the South down, may weigh two or three pounds. The grass of the towans is of a short thick and sweet nature; but in the mornings and evenings, in- numerable smalt turbinated snails come out from the sand, on which these sheep seem to make a delicious repast, and on which it is said they get fat. " I saw them myself eating these snails." A number of mules are also bred in this county, and employed in the mining district, conveying away the produce and carrying sup- plies to the mines. Troops of fifty at a time of these sure-footed animals are frequently to be met on the roads in the mining country, loaded with copper or tin ore, particularly between Redruth and the Heyl copper-works. In the Mining District Mr. Marshall saw- many goats. At every cottage door are two or three of these useful animals, with the hind and fore leg tied together, to prevent their escaping to the summit of the mountains, or wandering from home. — A much greater number of these animals is to be seen in Cornwall than in any part of South Wales. Tithes. The great and sheaf tithes here, are for the most part the property of laymen, and are by them farmed out to persons called proctors. The small tithes, which comprise all titheable things, are in the hands of the clergy, who in F 2 general 52 CORNWALL, general compound at Is. to Is. Gd. iu the pound of the rent for Vicarages; and for Rectories, where the great tithes also belong to the cler- gyman, from 2s. Gd. to 3s. Cd. in the pound. In general, it may be observed, they are com- pounded for on very moderate terms when held by the clergy ; when held by a layman, they are sometimes taken in kind, but generally va- lued and agreed for in the field, about the time of harvest. Provisions. The most common food of the labouring class is barley bread, with tea and salted fish. The pilchards which are caught in great abundance on this coast, and cured for foreign markets, supply the poor also with wholesome and nutri- tious food. Being salted, they give a relish to the tea and are eaten with potatoes at other meals. Many labourers who gain better wages, or are not burthened with large families, use wheaten bread, and are able to indulge in some meat for their pasties, as well as for their suppers; and the poor are in general better fed and clothed than in other counties. Fuel. The principal articles of fuel in the western parts of Cornwall, are turf, furze, and Welsh coals; in the eastern part, hedge and coppice- wood, and coals. This necessary article of comfort, it is owned, is so scarce, that many of the poor are obliged to take a great deal of pains to collect a scanty burthen of miserable short Cornish furze from the commons. Weights AGRICULTURE. 53 Weights and Measures, It is necessary to observe, that divers weights and measures prevail throughout Cornwall, to a mischievous and vexatious degree, and are pro- ductive of much inconvenience, perplexity and error, as a snare to the ignorant, and a handle fo the artful. Corn, for instance, is sold in the eastern parts of Cornwall by the double Win- chester of 16 gallons, and in the western parts by the treble Winchester of 24 gallons ; oats by the hogshead of 9 Winchesters : but with some farmers, the double Winchester will run 17 or 171 gallons. Again, if a farmer in the eastern part buys a bushel of seed wheat from the western farmers, it will run short a gallon or two by the eastern measure. Butter is gene- rally sold at eighteen ounces to the pound. The customary perch for land measure is also 18 feet; but this is giving way to the statute percli of 16| feet. As there is a statute with a penalty against selling corn by any but the Win- chester bushel of 8 gallons, and a legal pound of meat or butter must weigh 16 ounces, it is hoped the remedy will be applied to these evils by an enforcement of the laws al- ready existing. Roads. The two great post entrances into Cornwall, are by Launceston and Tor Point ; if you enter by the latter, you have to cross the harbour of Haraoaze, which at times is rough and turbu- lent. Mr. Worgan has noticed with due repre- hension, the straw traps which the farmers lay in some of the cross roads, and which, conceal- f3 ing 54 coR^^vALL. ing the deep ruts, endanger their Jiorses and gigs, and their own necks. The quartz stone, so abundant in most parts of Cornwall, is ar> admirable material for repairing the roads, which are very much in want of it between Devonshire and Budehaven. The parochial roads are numerous, narrow and intricate; some of them inere gullies, worn by torrents; their high banks and tall over- hanging hedge-wood render many of them datk labyrinths. Guide posts in this county still reiirain a desideratum among travellers. A bill is now before parliament for making a road from Truro to Falmouth, by way of Flush- ing. It is intended to have a tiying bridge over the creek, which runs up to Penryn. 1 here is a turnpike road branching off from the Plymouth road, near Crofthole, which passes through Milbrook and Maker, commonly called Cremble passage. Here, though the horse boats are sometimes (though never for an entire day) de- layed during the strong gales of wind, the foot boats pass constantly without interruption ; the accommodations ot the ferry at Torpoint are peculiarly good, particularly as to the embarka- tion and disembarkation on both sides. These are numerous in Cornwall, both for foot and horse travellers; those for the former, to cross the rivulets and deep gullies, consist only of one flat stone : if there was a rail to lay hold of, and this painted white, they would be belter. ()u the whole, they are kept in good repair. The largest in the county i§. Wade a Bridge^ AGRICULTURE. 55 Bridge, consisting of sixteen Gothic arches over the Camel and Alan united. It is in contemplation to make a turnpike road from lledruth over the head of the river Hayle to Penzance, and also to shorten and im- prove the road from Catchfrench to Torpoint. Commerce and Manufactures. The principal places of trade in Cornwall are Padstow, Boscastlc, and the river Hayle on the north coast; Penzance, Falmouth, Truro, Fowey and Looe, on the south. The three great staple commodities for export, are tin, tisli, and copper ; the moor-stone, and China- stone for porcelain ; barley, oats, potatoes, and some wheat. The imports are goods and consist of groceries from London, Bristol, and Manches- ter; coals, balk, iron, and various other articles. Great quantities of flour are annually iniporte(i at Falmouth and Penryn, chiefly for the miners. A great many neat cattle, pigs, and some sheep are driven annually out of the county. The manufactures are few and ineonsiderable, some coarse woollen, several paper, and a carpet ma- nufactory, make jp the principal. A vvool-fair, it was justly observed in *' Tlie General View of the Agriculture of the County of Cornwall," is much wanted ; and one of this description has since been established at St. JVlitchel's. Tlie Manner in which Land is possessed. In ancient times the whole of the mountainous and waste lands in Cornwall in which tin was found, belonged to the King ; this territory was anciently reputed a duchy, but a little before the Norman conquest was an earldom. By Ed- ward 5G CORNWALL, ward III. it was again constituted a duchy ; the first that was created in England after the con- quest, and conferred on Edward the Black Prince, with the special limitation to the first- begotten son and heirs apparent of him and his heirs Kings of England for ever. A very great part of these wastes and moors still are parcels of the said duchy, to which also other manors, lands, and hereditaments, Iiave been added by subsequent acts of parliament, in lieu of other lands in other counties taken from the same by act of parliament with the obvious intention of preserving the value of the duchy entire. The duchy lands are still by far the most ex- tensive of those belonging to any proprietor in the -county. The lands of the other proprietors are much intermixed with the duchy lands and with each other. Property is very much divi- ded, there are very few who possess of landed rental within the county more than 30001. per annum exclusive of the produce of the mines. The duchy lands are in general occupied io very small farms. In the eastern and more fer- tile parts rents in general do not exceed thirty or forty pounds per annum ; the greater part not above 10 or 15 pounds per annum ; some few are as high as lOOl. and from that to 2001. per annum. All the farms are on leases for lives. In the western and mining district they are very small indeed, chiefly cottage holdings. Mr. Fraser gives the following list of duchy lands in Cornwall, as granted by charter 11 of Edward III. l.The AGRICULTURE. 57 1. The Castle, Manor, and Park and Borough of Launceston, with its appurtenances. 2. The Castle and Manor of Treraarton, and the Borough of Saltash,and the Park there, with the ap- purtenances. 3. The Castle, Borough, and Manor of Tyntagell, which is supposed to be the place of birth and seat of King Arthur. 4. The Castle and Manor of Restormel, and ths Park there. 5. The Manor of Clymesland, and Park of Kerry Bollock. 6. The Manor of Tibesta, with the Bailiwick of Powdershire. 7. The Manor of Tevwynton, with the appurte- nances. 8. The Manor and Borough of Helston in Ker- rier, with the appurtenances. 9. The Manor of Moresk, with the appurte- nances. 10. The Manor of Penkneth, with the appurte- nances. 11. The Manor of Penlyn, with the Park there. 12. The Manor of Relatonalso Rillaton, with the Beadlery of Eastwyvelshire. 13. The Manor of Ilelston in Trigshire with the appurtenances, and the Park of Hellesbury. 14. The Manor and Borough of Liskeard and the Park there. 15. The Manor of Kallestock, with the Fishery there, and its other appurtenances. 16. The Manor of Talskydo, with the appurte- nances in the said county of Cornwall. 17. The Borough or Town of Lestwilhiel, toge- ther with the Mills. King Henry VIII. at his parliament holden at Westminster the thirty-first year of his reign, and prorogued on divers occasions until the twenty- fourth 58 COHNWALL. fourth day of July, in the thirty-second year of his reign, in lieu of other lands severed from the duchy, did annex to the said dukedom the manors of Westanton, Port Lew, North-hill, Port Pigham, Laudren, Trelovveia, Tregoroe, Trelagan, Crosthoie, Treviihern, Courtney, Laii- dulph. Leigh Durai?t, and Tinion, and aU other his land in the said places, which came to the said King by the attainder of treason of Henry Courtney, Marquis of Exeter; also the manors of Austel, Fentregan, Tremeynalls, Tremagwon, Fowey, Cudgrave, and Port Neaprior, in the county of Cornwall, which came to the King's hands by the dissolution of the Priory of 1 re- werdreth, in that county ; also all the manors of Breadford, Caverton, Clymesland, Pryor, Tre- W'orgy, Stratton, Eastway, Bowyton, Bradissey, Bucklaurue and Bonyalvey, which came into the king's hands by the surrender and suppression of the priory of Launceston. By the above, and other accounts and records, it appears that the said duchy of Cornwall con- sisted formerly of ten several castles, which in ancient times were places of great consequence and strength ; they are now ail in ruins and gone to decay. There were in ancient times nine parks, and one chase or forest, all of large ex- tent, and replenished with deer. They have long been deforrested, and by various incroach- ments are rendered of little or no value to the Prince. The duchy also contained fifty-three manors, many of which were of great yearly rent of assize. Of ancient boroughs and towns there are within the said duchy 13 in number, formerly AGRICULTURE. 59 formerly of great power and influence. There are nine several hundreds, parcels of the said duchy, besides extensive tracts of waste and luoory grounds included in or adjoining to the various manors. At present what remains of the extensive possessions are farmed in leases for lives, subject to small annual quit rents, and renewable for fines, in some instances certain, and others arbi- trary. The revenues of the duchy of Cornwall, as appears from the accounts of the receiver of it, in the fifteenth year of King Henry Vlll. amounted of clear yearly value to 10,0951. lis. O.^d. This is a large sura for those days ; and this without the casual revenues from reprises, &c. The coinage dues, which form part of it,^ amounted to 2,7711. 3s. 9^d. so that the clear revenue from the duchy lands amounted to 7,324l. 8s. In the reign of James I. the reve- nues belonging to the Prince of Wales, from the duchy of Cornwall, the principality of Wales, earldom of Chester, and various other lands, amounted to 100,000). per annum, being a clear rent from lands. In the troubles that followed, and afterwards from the various necessities of the crown, the whole of these lands, in the prin- cipality of Wales and earldom of Chester, were alienated, and the duchy lands of Cornwall are the only part of these valuable hereditary reve- nues which now remain to the heir apparent. The lands of the duchy of Cornwall being formed on leases of lives renewable, some for a fine certain, others upon a calculation of the im- proved value, it is not easy to ascertain the year- ly 00 CORNWALL. ly value M'hich depends upon the falling in of lives. The great number of small rents are ex- pensive i?i the management and collecting. The tines also to be calculated upon improvements, operate directly against all improvements on so ))recarioiis a tenure as that of lives. It has therefore haj)pened that the value of the duchy has not been improved, in an equal degree, with the land around belonging to private proprietors, unless in situations favourable to improvement. The chief and greatly-improved part of the re- venues of the duchy, is not that which arises from the lands, but that part which arises from the duty upon the coinage of tin, which is un- der the direction and management of the otticers of the Stannaries, a distinct branch of his Royal Hi^hness's establishment from that under which is the management of the lands. On account of the exportation of this metal to the East Indies and China, this trade has been restored to a very iiourishing state : and the revenues arising from the coinage, are likely not only to be more steady than formerly, but in all probability will be considerably increased. To give therefore an idea of the revenues of the duchy, the coin- age dues cannot be stated higher than 10,0001. on the average. The landed revenue may amount to 5,0001. per aniium. Besides some censures upon tenures held upon lives and estates during that time, racked unmercifully, Mr. Worgan observes, in respect to entailed estates, that he was in hopes he had been the only sufferer in Cornwall from this kind of deceptive tenure. In many of his ex- cursions MINES AND MINERALS. 61 ciirsions, he had met with fellow sufferers, a«d with others who are likely to become so ; he therefore thous;ht it behoved every man about to occupy a farm by lease, to make enquiry whether it be an entailed estate or not ; because the possessor haviu» the power of letting it for his own life only ; in case of his death, the oc- cupier is left entirely at the mercy of his suc- cessors. MINES AND MINERALS. There cannot be a more important object of enquiry to the curious traveller, or more worthy of particular notice in the history of this county than its numerous mines, which have for time immemorial been the source of employment to a <,'reat portion of its whole population, and fur- nished an article which for ages has been the chief staple of the commerce of Great Britain. " In a narrow slip of barren country,'' says the Author of the General View of Cornwall, " where the purposes of agriculture would not employ above a few thousand people, the mines alone support a population estimated at nearly 60,000, CAviusive of the artizans, tradesmen^ and merchants, in the towns of St. Austel, Truro, Penryn, Falmouth, Redruth, Penzance, and some others." The number of men> women, and children, deriving their whole subsistence from the mine^, by raising the ore, washing, stamping, and carrying it, has been estunated at 14,000. The mines of Cornwall consist chiefly of tin, copper, and some lead. The strata in which these metals are founds extend from the Land's G End, 62 CORNWALL. End, Cornwall, in a direction from West to East, a very considerable distance into Devon, to the furthest part of Dartmore Hills. These strata consist chiefly of the various species of the SchistuSy here called Killas, and of the Granite or Growan. This extensive range forms the high ground, in the middle of Cornwall, from which the winds, rain, and storms, have washed much of the vegetable earth to enrich the vallies, and in which they have been aided by the operation of the miners. The high lands on the east of the county, bordering upon Devon, particularly the parish of Linkinhorn.and Hengsten or Hingston Downs, were famous for tins in the earliest times, and from St. Austel westward, to Kemyn, Gwenap, Stythians, Wendron, and Breage on the south, and to St. Agnes, Redruth, lUogan, Cambourne, Gwinear, in a straight line through LelantSenor, and Morvas, to the parish of St. Just on the north, the mining grounds maintain a breadth of about seven miles at a medium In some creeks of Falmouth harbour tin is found among the slime and sands ; and in Mount's Bay, it is sometimes thrown up by the sea, in a pulverized state. — Tin disseminated in the sides of hills, in single stones, are called shodes: such stones found together in great numbers, making a continual course from one to ten feet deep, are called a stream.* The Romans not only traded to this part of Britain for tin, but they also, after fixing their military stations at Danmonium, became miners * Polwhele's History of Cornwall. themselves. MINES AND MINERALS. 63 themselves. The Jews very early worked the Cornish mines ; but when they came hither cannot be exactly ascertained. Carew, in his suivey of Cornwall, says, ** Albeit the tynne lay couched at tirst in certain strakes amongst the rockes, like a tree or the veines of a man's body, from the depth whereof the maine lode, §preadeth out his branches, until they approach the open ayre ; yet they have now two kinds of tynne workes, stream and lode ; for (say they) the floud, carried together with the moved rocks and earth, so much of the iode as was inclosed therein, and at the asswaging, left the same scattered here and there in the vallies and rivers where it passed ; wbicii being sought and digged is called stream work : under this title they comprise also the moor works, growing from the like occasion. They maintain these works to have been very ancient, and tirst wrought by the Jewts witii pickaxes of Hoime box and hartsiiornes, they prove this by the name of thoae places yet enduring, to wit Attal Sarazin, in English the J ewes offcast ; and by those tools daily found among the rubbish of such works. And it may well be that as acorns made good bread before Ceres taught the use of corn ; and sharp stones served the Indians for knives, until the hpaniajds brought them iron : so, in the infancy of knowledge, these poore in- struments for want of better did supply a turn. There are also taken up in such works certain little tooles, neads of brass, which some terme thunder axes, but they make small shew of any profitable use. Neither were the Romans igno- G 2 rant 64 CORNWALL. rant of this trade, us may appear by a brass coyne of Domilian's, found in one of these works, and fallen into my hands, and perhaps under one of tliose Flavians, the Jewish work- men made here their lirst arrival." Tin Mines. Formerly immense quantities of this metal were found, m the eastern piuts of this county, where the remains of innumerable ancient work- ings are still to be observed. The tin of Cornwall, of the adjacent isles of Scilly, and of Devon, has Ironi time immemo- rial constituted a great branch of f(»reign com- merce. Some years before the Invasion of Julius Ciesar, a Uoman merchant, of the name of Pubhus Cra^^us, stimulated the Cornish Britons to improve their mines, and increase their traffic with the continent, and persuaded thera to ex- port their tni to the neighbouring shores of France. His advice was taken, and even the islanders of Scilly, are spoken of by Festus Avuenus, in the fourth century, for men of high minds, great prudence as merchants, and for great skill as pilots, in steering their vessels of skins with dexterity through the vast ocean. The working of the mines was entirely neg- lected during the period of the Saxon dominion, and the constant state of warfare in which the British were afterwards involved with the Danes allowed them no opportunity of attending to peaceful employments. — It does not appear that the Romans derived any great advantage from the Cornish mines, and in the reign of King Johu they produced so inconsiderable a revenue that MINES AND MINERALS. 65 that the tin farm amounted to no more than 100 marks, and tl^e king, to whom the rights of working the mines then belonged, was so sensible of their low state that he bestowed some valu- able privileges on the county, relieving it from the operations of the arbitrary forest laws, and granting a charter to the tinners. On the contrary, in the time of Richard, King of the Romans and Earl of Cornwall, the pro- duce of the tin mines was immense. In the reign of iulward I. the mines were again neglected, till the gentlemen of Blackmoor, proprietors of the seven tythings, aft'ording the greatest quanti- ty of tin, got a charter from Edmund Earl of Cornwall, containing '* more explicit grants of the priviledges of keeping a court of judicature, kolding pleas of actions, managing and deciding all Stannary causes, of holding parliaments at their discretion, and of receiving, as their own due and proportion, the toll tin ; that is the one fifteenth of all tin raised." Regulations were also made respecting the right of bounding or dividing tin grounds into separate portions, for the encouragement of searching for tin. By these regulations the labouring tinner became entitled to a certain property in the soil of waste and uninclosed lauds, in which he discovered tin, and upon giving proper notice in the Stannary Court to the proprietor, was enabled to register the intended boundaries without opposition. The bounds confine the particular portions of ground to the extent of the claim, and are made by digging a small pit at each angle of the lot and circumscribing it by a line drawn from each G 3 pit ; 66 CORNWALL. pit : this is the present practice, and the person making these boundaries is obliged to keep the pits in repair, b\ preventing the growth of the turf, and removing any dirt or rubbish that might fill up his land-marks. To the charter granted by Edmund, Carew says, in his survey, that there was athxed "a seal with a pick-axe and shovel in saltire." It was again confirmed towards the latter end of the reign of Edward I. and the tinmen of Corn- wall were made a distinct body from those of Devonshire ; having before been accustomed to assemble on Hengston Hill every seventh or eighth year, in order to concert the necessary measures for securing their respective interests. The laws and privileges of the Cornish miners were further explained in the reign of Edward III. and confirmed and enlarged by several acts of parliament passed under Richard II. and Edward IV. These acts divided the tinmen in- to four divisions, under the superintendance of one warden, and reserving an appeal from his decisions in all suits of law and equity to the Duke of Cornwall in council ; or, in case this title should be in abeyance, to the crown. A vice-warden is appointed every month by the lord warden to determine all stannary dis- putes; he also constitutes four stewards (one for each precinct) who hold their courts (called stannary courts from the Latin word Stannum, tin) every three weeks, and decide by juries of six persons, with a progressive appeal to the vice-warden, lord-warden, and lords of the Prince of Wales's council.— Five towns were appointed MINES AND MINERALS. 67 appointed in the most convenient parts of the county, to which the tinners were to bring their tin every quarter of the year. The original towns for this purpose were Launceston, Lest- withiel, Truro, and Helston. In the reign of Charles II. Penzance was added, for the accom- modation of the western tinners. In the time of Henry VIII. there were only two coinages^ at Midsummer and Michaelmas; two more have been since added, held at Lady-day and Christ- mas, for which the tinners pay an acknowledg- ment of 4d. for every cast of white tin then coined. There are officers appointed to assay it; and, if well purified, it is stamped with the dutchy seal, viz. the arms of Richard, Earl of Cornwall, a lion rampant, gules, crowned, or with a border of bezant silver, and this is a licence to the coiner to sell, and is called coin- ing the tin. The Duke of Cornwall receives for every cast of white tin so coined 4§. and the annual produce at present of the tin mines is es- timated at about 25,000 blocks; which, after deducting the duties, may be valued at 260,0001. According to this calculation the income of the Duchy of Cornwall, arising from the tin mines, is not less than 10,0001. annually. One of the most considerable of the tin mines in the county lies about two miles south-west of St. Austel ; produced upon an average about 2,500 blocks per annum for many years. In the palish of St. Agnes, and its adjoining parish Peranzaboloe, there are a great number of mines, the joint produce of which is very great. Ken win, Kea, and G wen nap, aftbrd consider- able 68 CORNWALL. able quantities of tin. In Gwennap is the mine called Poldice, very ancieur and dcf'p. It has \ielded sometimes 1000 blocks yearly. It ruay now be denominated with more propriety a cop- per mine. In this, and many other tin mines, when they get to a great depth, the tin wears out and leaves a lode or vein of copper In Wendron, north east of Helston, the tin mines are numerous and productive. Between Helston and Mari-zion are the tin parishes of Sithuey, Breage, Germoe, &c. Immediately beyond Penzance there was, un- til within these teu year>, a tin mine worked under the sea. The shaft, through wtiich the miners went down to work, was situated nearly one bundled yards below water-m.«rk. This was the famous wherry mine, which was wholly given up in the year 1798. ** The opening of this mine," says Dr. Maton, *' was an astonish- ingly adventurous undertaking. Imagine the descent into a mine through the sea, the miners working at the depth of seventeen fathoms be- low the waves; the rod of a steam-engine, ex- lending from the shore to the shaft, a distance of nearly 120 fathoms ; and a great number of men momentarily menaced with an inundation of the sea, which continually drains, in no small quantity, through the roof of the mine, and roars loud enough to be distinctly heard in it." This mine not only produced a great quantity of rich tin stuff, but also some cobalt; the latter was chiefly mixed 'with pyrites and nickel. Cobalt when purified is used in the potteries and porce- lain manufactories, in printing and painting the blue MINES AND MINERALS. G3 blue colour so much adnjired : from this sub- stance zaftar and smalts are prepared. The great expence incurred in working this mine, and the danger the miners were constantly ex- posed to, occasioned it to be discontinued. Westward from Penzance there are only a few scattered mines. In the parish of St. Just, in which stands Cape Cornwall, one of the wes- tern promontories, there are several mines, the produce of which is considerable. North and north-east of Penzance, to St. Ives Bay, are many mines very productive. The principal stream works are in the pa- rishes of Lanlivery, Luxilvan, St. Blazy, St. Austel, St. Mewan, St. Stephens, St. Colunib, St. Enoden, and Ladbrook, east and north-east of Truro, from five to twenty miles. The prin- cipal stream work in the county is at Carnon, about half-way between Truro and Penryn ; west of this place there are but few stream woiks. Copper Mines. Copper ores are found in great abundance and variety m Cornwall ; and native copper is not unfrequently found within the fissures of rocks, in thin tilms, deposited by the impreg- nated water that runs from the lodes, or hori- zontal layers, of the copper ore. Veins of cop- per are also frequently discovered in cliffs that are left bare by the sea ; but the most certain sign of a rich ore is the gossan, an earthly och- reous stone, of a ruddy colour, which crumbles like the rust of iron. The presence of copper is further indicated when the ground is inclina- ble to an easy free-working blue Killas, inter- mixed 70 CORNWALL, mixed with white clay. A white crjstaline stone is also fouud to conlaio a great proportion of yellow copper. The lodes of copper ore gene- rally he deeper than those of tin, and its ores are cbi^tiy of the p\ritous and sulphurated kinds, wilh a small proportion of arsenic. " The lodes hoth of tin and copper, appear most fre- quently to have granite for iheir country^ and to make an angle of 60° to 76*^ with the hori- zon." The matrices of copper ore are iouud in great number and variety. Among the blue ores there is one of an extremely fine blue earth. The grey ore is oilen spotted yellow and purple ; but this ore is deemed the most rich when of an uniform lead colour through- out. Octahedral crystals of red vureous cop- per ore are found in one of Gwennap mines, called Cahanack, which also produces ttie arse- niii'e of copper. The ore is cleansed and dressed by the same process as employed for tin; but requires less washing, from being generally raided in large masses. In the smelting-houses they use re- verberating furnaces, and those for the process of roasting v. ill contain about three tons and ^ half of ore, broken into small pieces, at one time. After the ore has been wasted twelve hours, it is removed into a smaller furnace, and melted by the aid of blacked lime in a ciude state, and occasionally, powdered coal. 1 he scoria is removed every three or four hours, and the same quantity of the mixlure added. After twelve' hours, it is let out by a tr«'Ugh, from a hole near the bottom of the furnace, into MINES AND MINERALS. 71 into a tub of wood sunk into a pit full of water, by which oi>eration it is forced into small j^rains ; in this form it is again roasted in a third furnace, once more in a fourth, and at length cast into quadrangular moulds. To be further refined it must pass through successive roastiugs and meltings, until its being fit to be finally laded off, has been ascertained by the refiner, by the following method: viz. half a pound of the liquid metal is taken out and im- mersed in water, this is afterwards hammered and cut, and the grain examined ; when it has arrived at the proper degree of refinement, the scoria is removed, and with ladles, coated with clay, the metal is taken out of the furnace, and poured into oblong moulds, also coated with clay, each containing about 150lbs. weight. The annual produce of the copper mines has been calculated to amount to 4,700 tons of copper, worth, upon a moderate computaiion 350,000/. The most productive copper mines now working, are at Huel Alfred, near Hayle ; Crennis, near St. Austel ; Dolcoath, in Cam- borne, Huel Unity, United Mines, Huel Dam- sel, and Treskerby, in Gvveunap; Huel Abra> ham, in Crowan; Huel Towan, in St. Agnes ; and Gunnis Lake, in Calstock. These mines, however, owing to the low price of cop- per, and the great expence of working them, yield little profit to the adventurers, Crennis, and Huel Alfred, excepted. There are but few lead mines in Cornwall, though the ore has frequently been found incor- porated 72 CORNWALL, poraled with silver. The kind of ore most fre- f|uenlly found is that denominated Galena, or pure sulphuret of lead, both in crystalizations and in masses, generally of a blueish grey co- lour, and foliated texture. Lead, v\hen retined, is the softest of all me- tals, and its uses are multifarious. Its oxydes or calxes are employed in painting and dying, and likewise for medicinal purposes. The prin- cip il lead mines are Huel Pool, and Huel Rooe, near Helston. Mr. Fraser mentions a few small ones on the British Channel, in Perran, Cubert, &c. and on the same coast, north-east of Pad- stow, on St. Minver, St. Cue, and Endillion, in which last parish was also the most consider- able mine of antimony which this country has produced. Although gold has certainly been found in this county, yet it has been in such small quanti- ties, that it can hardly be mentioned as one of it's productiorfs. The largest mass of it ever discovered, of which Dr. Borlase gives an ac- count, weighed fifteen penny-weights and six- teen grains. Extremely minute particles of gold are very often diecovered among the stream tin, and some specimens have been met with incorporated with tin crystals in streaks. The miners carry about them a quill, in which they put the grains of gold found, and when the quill is filled they sell it to a goldsmith. Several years ago a lode of silver was dis- covered near the sea, between St. Agues and St. Michael, and the mine which is called Huel Mexico has been worked to much advantage. The MINEA AND MINERALS. 73 The lode runs in a direction, almost perpendi- cular, from norlh to south, and the depth of the mine is about thirty fathoms. Since the disco- very of Huel Mexico, silver has been got out of the Herland copper mine in the parish of Gwinear. A particular account of this disco- very, given by the Rev. Malachi Hitchins, was published in the Transactions of the Royal So- ciety, for 1801, in which he observes that the numerous veins of lead in Cornwall are richly impregnated with silver, and occasionally yield small quantities of silver ore, and even some specimens of native silver ; yet hitherto no in- stance had been known of their yielding this precious metal in such abundance (as in this instance) ; nor had any circumstance, in the na- tural history of the mineral veins of this county, borne any analogy to those which accompanied the discovery of the presence of silver, in the Herland copper mine. The Herland mine is of considerable extent, and described, by Mr. Hitchins, to commence in a valley on the west, and passing through a hill, which is first of steep and then of moderate ascent, for upwards of lialf a mile eastward ; Mhen the principal copper lodes which follow this direction, meet with a cross lode, by which, and by other cross courses, ^^AJlookans, which intersect them in their further progress, they are repeatedly heaved, and so disordered by these heaves in their form and position, and so changed by them in respect to their com- position, as hardly to be recognized. It is about twenty years since the first discovery of H the 74 CORNWALL. the silver ore in a particular part of the mine, in the neighbourhood of one of the intersected copper lodes, at a distance of 110 fathoms from the surface. Iron. There is abundance of iron ore in many parts of the county; but there are no iron mines which have been much worked. Many tons in- deed were sent to Wales, which the proprietors are said to have found to be so rich, that they had not been able to discover a proper flux for it. The Sulphuret of Iron, or Pyrites, called Mundic by the Cornish miners is found in great abundance, intermixed with both tin and cop- per ore ; also the semi-metals Bismuth, Zinc, Antimony, Cobalt, Arsenic, Wolfram, Mena- chanite, and Molybdena, and the Lapis Calami- naris, an ore of Zinc. INIr. Fraser, after some judicious observa- tions upon the value and importance of the bu- siness of mining, not only to the county of Cornwall, but also to the nation at large, men- tions that it had been remarked to him by a gentleman of much discernment, and thorough- ly acquainted with the county, as well as with most parts of England, *' that there are more men, who possess fortunes, sprung from the mines, of five and from that to twenty thousand pounds, than there are in any other county of England, excepting the metropolis and its vi- cinity ; and there are some instances of indi- viduals acquiring from fifty to two hundred thousand 3 MINES AND MINERALS. 75 thousand pounds, from the mines, and by a fortunate course of trade/' The county of Cornwall abounds in several other mineralogical substances of a value com- paratively little inferior to ihose we have al- ready described : of these tiie moor-stone or gra- nite*, is the first in consequence. It is found in greater quantity and variety here than in any other part of South Britain. The whole chain of mountains, commencing at Dartmoor, and running through the county to the sea at Land's End, are entirely composed of this stone, in an infinite variety, both with respect to the size and colour of its component parts. Tlie variety of this stone, which bears the Cornish name of Moor-stone, is applied to many useful pur- poses, and the most white is a beautiful material for building. '* The njethod of splitting it is by applying several wedges to holes cut {ov pool- ed) in the surface of the stone, at the distance of three or four inches tiom each other, according to its size and supposed hardness. The harder the mass, the easier it may be cut into the re- quired form, the softer the less regularly it sepa- rates. — We saw some pieces used lor posts, in- stead of wood, 14 or 15 feet in iengtl:, and not more than six inches thick. — Dr. Maton'sOb- servations. In the parish of St. Stephen, near St. Austel, is found a fossil, called the China stone, from the circumstance of its being used by the potte- ries in Stalfordshire, as an ingredient in the earthenware manufacture there. It is supposed * Granite i» an aggregate of Felspar, Quartz, and Mica. h2 to 76 CORNWALL. to be a decomposed granite. Great quantities after being carefully washed and cleansed from all discolouring particles, packed in hogsheads, are sent from Charlestown every year. Excel- lent retorts and crucibles are manufactured from this stone at Truro. There are se\eral varieties of the granite free from schoeil or metallic particles, which aloue might be advantageously used in the manufac- ture of porcelain ; the proportion of the compo- nent parts being properly attended to. There are many varieties of clay found in this county serviceable for every purpoi^e of manu- facture. In the parish of St. Kevran there is a yellow clay, considered equal to any other for casting in silver, brass, or lead. The clay dug near Lenant is excellent for building furnaces, the bricks made with it being capable of endur- ing a more intense heat, for a greater length of time without alteration, than any other. In a copper mine near Redruth is a curious production, called the swimming stones. It con- sists of quartz, in right lined laminae, as thin as paper, intersecting each other in ail direc- tions and leaving cavities between them. The stone is rendered so light by this cellular struc- ture that it swims on water, and thence obtains its name. At the Lizard Point, in the parish of Land- wednock, the rocks are entirely of the Serpentine stone and hornblend, of the most beaut it ul co- lours, particularly at Kynance Cove. "These rocks are extremely interesting to a minera- logist; here the gradations and transitions of various MINES AND MINERALS. 77 various substances into each other will employ his speculation ; for, besides tho^e already men- tioned, asbestos appears in small portions, and veins of steatites may be traced in numerous directions. Native copper, in a thread-like form, as well as in lumps, is found also in the fissures of the serpentine stone. The latter is a very beautiful stone, and would be very orna- mental for chimney-pieces, slabs, &c. being scarcely distinguishable from marble. Among the fragments on the shore, polished by the at- trition of the waves, there w»^re some of an olive green, variegated with black, and others red with waving stripes of purple. Two colours seem necessary to constitute a serpentine, which indeed the name implies, being taken from the undulated marks on a serpent's back.'' — Dr, Mat on. De Costa, in his history of fossils, correctly describes the situation of the soap-rock in this neighbourhood. — '* The new soap-rock lately discovered is at Gew Grez or Cres Cove, in the tenement" of Kynance, in Mullion parish; it is about three miles from Mullion town, and about a mile from the old soap-rock or cove, which lies farther southward. The en- trance into the creek or cove is v^ry steep, craggy, and horrid ; at the right hand (on des- cending into the creek; the hills are crested with naked rocks or caverns, as the Cornish people call them; the sides have also many, but they are small. About half way down the cove a small current of water traverses it in a serpentine manner, and discharges itself near the lode or H 3 principal 78 CORNWALL, principal vein of Steatites. On the right hand, as you descend the cove, it grows more craggy, and much narrower; and a few yards lower, ou the same side, lies the main vein or lode of steatites ; the various sorts are all blended to- gether in spots, sometimes in greater quantities in one place than another.*" He ihen goes oa to observe, that, according to Monsieur Reau- mur, no true porcelain can be made only of clays, but that other necessary substances are needful to hinder their perfect vitrification : and for such substances we must have recourse to the Talcy class, the fossils of which class almost evade the force of fire, and of these none can be * The Soap Earth or Steatites of De Ccsta is thus de- scribed by him ; " This is a fine and beautiful clay, of a firm, compact, and regular texture, considerably weighty and hard, of a smooth and unctuous surface, much more so than any other clays ; from w hence these clays have obtained the name of Soap Eaitli. " It does not colour the fingers 3 but drawn along a board, &c. marks a white line. It does not adhere to the tongue, nor does it melt in the mouth ; but when chewed has an vmctuous softness, and is quite pure and free from ail grittiness ; it is not at all diffusible m water. The finest is generally white, sometimes with a yellowish hue, ele- gantly veined and spotted with different degrees of purple, from the slightest cast of that colour to near black ; at other times it is as elegantly veined with red, and sometimes, though rarely, has veins and spots of greeu • at other times the ground is red or purple, varie- gated with white; but in all these appearances it so greatly resembles hard soap, that it has from thence more particularly obtained its English name of Soap Earth or Soap Stone, and that of Steatites from theGieek word SttaTf suet ; from its resemblance to the hard fat of ani- mals. In the fire it acquires a stony texture, and grows whiter."— Pe Coita^s Natural Hittory of Fossils, finer FISHERIES. 79 finer or fitter for the making of porcelain than the steatites of Cornwall. " The obvious scarcity of spar in this county is absolutely proved in the almost total absence of limestone, whence it is mineralized." The Cornish, however, denominate every species of quartz and crystal indiscriminately, except the pseudo-adamantes, spar. Beautiful specimens of quartz are frequently found in every part of the mining strata, crystallized in hexagonal py- ramids of a fine pellucid water, becoming the pseudo-adamantes of the pure kind, and are thence called Cornish diamonds, reckoned supe- rior to the Bristol stone, and every other diapha- nous crystallization in Great Britain. Lime-stone is only to be found at Mount Edgcurabe and the immediate neighbourhood, FISHERIES. **The sea," says Dr. Borlase, *' is the great storehouse of Cornwall, which offers not its treasures by piecemeal, nor all at once, but in succession, all in plenty in their several seasons, and in such variety, as if nature was solicitous to prevent any excess or superfluity of the same kind." — And in his very excellent work upon the natural history of the county, he describes at large the numerous species of fish that are taken upon the coast : of these the pilchard is almost peculiar to the county, and, being the source of great commercial advantages to a nu- merous portion of its inhabitants, will demand our particular notice. ** The Cornish," says Camden, make a gain- ful trade of those little fish called pilchards, which 80 CORNWALL. \vhich are seen upon the sea-coast, as it were in great swarms, from July to November. These they catch, garbage, salt, smoke, barrel^ and press ; and so send them in great numbers to France, Spain, and Italy, where they are a wel- come commodity, and are named Fumados.'* The Pilchard in size and form very much re- sembles the common herring, except that it is somewhat smaller, and not so flat-sided. ** The dorsal fin of the pilchard (observes Dr. Maton) is placed exactly in the centre of gravity ; so that the ordinary mode of distinguishing it from the herring is, to try whether, when taken up by the fin, it preserves an equilibrium or not. The body of the herring dips towards the head, and the scales are also observed to drop off, whereas those of the pilchard adhere very closely." — They come from the North Seas, in great quan tities, during the summer montiis, and about the middle of July reach the islands of Scilly and the Land's End of Cornwall ; shifting their si- tuation as the season prompts and the food al- lures them. The pilchards are sometimes taken in prodigious quantities at Mevagissy, in the creeks of Falmouth and Helford Havens, iu the creeks of St. Kevran and in Mount's Bay ; and there are other fisheries at Mullion Cove, St. Mawes, Charles Town, Polkerris, East and West Looe, and Polgarrow. On the northern side the principal fishing is at St. Ives. The pilch- ards are talien in what they call sean or drift nets, and the fishermen are directed tq the shoals of fisli by persons posted on the high lands near the shore, who discover them by the colour of the FISHERIES. 81 the water, and make signs to the boats where to cast their nets. The nets are managed by three boats, containing about eighteen persons. The scans are 220 fiathoms long, 16 fathoms deep in the middle, and 14 at each end. The fish, immediately upon being brought on shore, are taken to the storehouses or cellars, where they are laid up in broad piles, and salted as they are piled up with bay-sali. AH the small and the broken fish, and such as have been bitten by the dog lish, being picked out by women, and taken away to be dressed. In this manner they lie soaking twenty or thirty days, during which time a great quantity of blood, dirty pickle, and bittern, drains from the fish, — When taken out of the pile, there remains a great deal of salt, &c. at the bottom, which, with the addition of fresh salt, serves for another pile. The next process is to wash them in sea- water, to clear off the dirt and blood ; and, when dry, they put them into hogsheads, pressing them down hard to squeeze out the oil, which issues through a hole at the bottom of the cask ; and in this state they are sent to market. This fishing is of the greatest advantage to the county of Cornwall, affording employment to great numbers of fishermen in catching the fish, and many more, besides women and children, are employed in the various processes of wash- ing, salting, pressing, and cleaning ; in building boats, making nets, ropes, casks, &c. The poor are fed with such fish as are not fit to be packed up, and the waste and damaged fish and salt en- rich the land. It has been calculated, that upon an B2 CORNWALL. an average of seven years, one sf>an will take about 400 hogsheads of lish : the number of pilchards iu each hogshead is 3000. The quantity of salt used yearly is about 50,000 bushels, at 841b. to the bushel' ; half this quantity is used in curing the fish, one half the residue is spoilt and sold for manure, and the remainder is left in stock to be used a second time. The price of the spoilt salt is lOd. per bushel ; price of broken fish. Id. per gallon ; garbage sold to the soap-boilers at Gd. per gal- lon ; dregs are bought by the curriers at lOd. per gallon. Each hogshead requires ten women to salt the fish, at 20d. per hogshead ; each cask for the fish costs about 3s. Seventeen men em- ployed on each scan, at 8s. per week ; the tythe of each scan 11. 13s. 4d. yearly. Forty-eight hogsheads of pilchards generally yield a tun or 25*2 gallons of oil, the price of which is about 281. per ton, perhaps, or dearer duriiyg war, in peace the price is not so high. One hogshead of fish takes 420lb. of salt; upon which there is an import duty of 2jd. per bushel of 841 b. The total expences of taking, curing, and packing an hogshead of fish is about twenty shillings, out of which nearly six shillings is paid for salt only. Upon every hogshead of fish taken Government allows a bounty of 8s. 6d. and we have been informed that it is calculated that this bounty and the value of the oil in ge- neral nearly reimburses the whole of the ex- pence the fisheries incur. The craft necessary for an undertaking in this fishery are as follow : — A stop scan, or net, with lead FISHERIES. 83 lead weights at bottom and corks at tap, the cost of which is about 3501. ; an open boat for carry- ing the sean, about 15 tons burthen, costs 701.; another open boat of the same tonnage, to assist in enclosing the fish, of the same value as the last ; a smaller boat, to carry the men to and from the shore, and for any occasional use, costs about 121. ; a boat for canning the fish to the shore, cost 70l.; a truck sean, made similar to the stop sean, 108 fathoms low and 10 deep, costs 1201. Some other necessary articles will increase this calculation to about 12001. The number of persons employed in this fishery cannot be estimated at less than 12,000, men, women, and children. In salting, packing, pressing, and preparing the fish for exportation, there are at least 5,000 persons employed ; about four-fifths are women, the rest men. The rope- makers, blacksmiths, shipwrights, sail-makers, &c. are upwards of 400. The twine-spinners are women, about 150 in number. The makers and menders of nets are chiefly women and chil- dren, employed by the twine-manufacturers, in all about 600. Nets are also made, during the winter seasons, by the fishermen and their fa- milies. The capital engaged in the pilchard fishery cannot be estimated at less than 350,0001. and this is increasing every season, by new adven- tures in the trade; the speculation being very popular in the county. The season for fishing commences towards the middle of July, and continues about ten weeks, when the pilchards disappear. The quantity taken 84 CORNWALL. taken is very uncertain. There have been in* stances of one sean taking and curing from 1,000 to 1,500 hogsheads and upwards in a season; when, at the same time, other neighbouring fisheries have not taken a single fish. It has been calculated, that there are about 60,000 hogsheads, of 40 gallons each, and 3,000 fish in each cask, taken in a season. Among other fish visiting the Cornish coasts, are frequently seen : The Blower, or Fin-fish (the Physeta of the ancients.) The Grampus. The Blue Shark. The Monk, or An£:el Fish. The Sea Adder, and the Sun Fish. In summer and autumn turbot are caught in great plenty. In Mount's Bay, particularly, there have been instances of thirty of them being taken in an evening, with a hook and line. Upon the southern coast, mackarel are also caught in great abundance ; upon the southern coast, and upon the whole of the coast westward of Ply- mouth, those delicious fish. Red Mullets and John Dory. The Conger Eel, of a very large size, is frequently met with near the shores. All sorts of shell-fish are extremely plentiful, particularly oysters, the best of which are found in the creeks in Constantine parish, on the river Heyl. In addition to the advantages derived from the fisheries, the inhabitants of Cornwall find in the sands of their sea-shores another source of profit smd employment for the industrious; and wa have FISHERIES. 85 have already mentioned what immense quanti- ties of this article are used for manure. Of these sands there is, perhaps, a greater variety than can be found in any other of the maritime counties of England ; the sands of every creek or bay being different. "The sands of Ch'andour Creek, near Penzance, and thence to Marazion, are of a pale blue colour, like the rocks at Ch'an- dour, and the shingle on the strand ; on the Isles of Scilly it is a bright-coloured shining sand, composed, for the most part, of the mica and crystals of the granite, commonly called Moor- stone, which edges all these islands. The same may be said of most other parts of Cornwall, where the sands are reddish, yellow, bright, and blue, according as the stones of each particular hue prevail in the lands adjoining." The sands chiefly valued for manure, are those which ap- pear to be composed of broken shells, and are found on the shores near Falmouth, in Kynance Cove, Trereen Cove, Whitesand Bay, and upon considerable tracts of the Northern Coast. Among the sub-marine plants found on the Cor- nish coast, are the Fucoides purpureum elegante plumosum, and the Fucoides rubens vario dissec- tum of Ray, which are extremely beautiful, and of the finest lake colour. There is also found another variety of this genus of plants, called the Sensitive Fucus, on account of its shrinking from the touch of the fingers, after its edges have been warped by being exposed to a slight heat before the fire. Sponges are frequently found on the rocks, upon which a great variety I of €6 CORNWALL. of beautiful white and red corralimes are also to be met with. HINTS TO THE CAPITALIST, And to Persons disposed to enter into henejicial Speculations. Upon taking a retrospective view of our ac- count of the commerce, mineralogy, fisheries* and agriculture of this county, it cannot but oc- cur to the reader how many opportunities are presented for the advautageous exercise of ca- |)ital. Perhaps there is no other couuty in the kingdom affording so much scope for spe- culation. The number of adventurers in the mining concern are daily increasing : shares are to be continually purchased to any extent, in the most established and profitable works, or divided into very inconsiderable subscriptions towards new undertakings. The multitude of mineral productions will afford another almost boundless field for specu- lation, which may in this instance be exerted and pursued, as much to individual profit as national advantage. With respect to the fisheries, it must be obvi- ous to every one that there can be no limits fixed to this important concern ; and there is very little wanting beyond capital to carry it on to any ex- tent. The success that has universally attended this branch of business, renders it very popular in Cornwall; perhaps more so than mining, where the advantages are in some degree precarious. Although the article of fuel is not so cheap here as in the manufacturing counties, still it is not so dear as to present an insurmountable ob- stacle TOPOOnAPHICAL. DESCRIPTION. 87 tacle to tlie ^Jiccess of manufactures in general ; ind we are oJ ojHoion that there might be some idvantageou.-]} t-stablished. Here are in iuaierable streams of water, af- I'ording all th facilities imaginable for the erection and u - of machinery, to be rented upon the most n.(»tierate terms. The manufacture of paper and of porcelain, in particular, migl'f be conducted with almost certain success ; fo , cilthough the latter requires a great expenditure ot fuel, the advantage of having all the raw uiulerjai for the manufacture upon the spot with other advantages of situation, nould probably more than counterbalance the extra price of fuel, CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISIONS. The first of these is to be found at large under the General Description of the County : — With respect to the latter, Cornwall is in the diocese of Exeter, in the province of Canterbury. It is an arch-deac. iiry comprehending the Deaneries of East, vVest Trigge Major, Trigge Minor, Pider, Powder, Kerrier, Pensith. Within it are thirty-two parishes of exempt jurisdiction. TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTY OF CORNWALL. Id our Topographical Survey of the County >f Cornwall, we shall pursue the route of the ^reat roads, as they are laid down in the Itine- ' ary prefixed to this work ; that our description :>f the country, over which the traveller must necessarily pass, may the more agreeably ac- company and inform him. In performing these journies, we shall some- 1 2 times 88 CORNWALL. times have occasion to pass through the same towns we have before described; in such case, we shall beg leave to refer to the page contain- ing our former description. In pursuance of this plan, our first journey will be from Fal- mouth to Launceston, through Penryn, Truro, St, Michael^ or Mitchel, and Bodmin ; a distance of 53 miles. Falmoiith. So called from its situation at the mouth of the river Fal, is in the hundred oi Kerrier, and dis- tant from London 269 miles. The principal street runs parallel with the sea-beach, foj up- wards of a mile in length, below the eminence that commands the harbour ; and at the entrance of the town from Penryn, there is a terrace or row of very respectable private houses, de- lightfully situated. The town is governed by a mayor and alder- men, but is not a parliamentary borough, al- though, in every point of view, it is a place of the most consequence in Cornwall. The establish- ment of the packet boats here, for Spain, Portu- gal, and the Weit Indies, and the facilities these vessels afford to commerce, have tended very much to improve the town, which is now become the residence of many opulent families. The pilchard fishery, and the import of iron and timber, for the use of the mines, are also great sources of the present prosperity of Falmouth. The harbour is unquestionably the finest in the kingdom, and so commodious that ships of the greatest burthen may come close to t he quay : it was surveyed by Commissioner Bowen, for the purpose TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 8& purpose of ascertaining its capability of accom- modating part of the Channel fleet during the winter months, and buoys laid down for the reception of sixteen sail of the line at one time. A communication was constantly kept up with the remainder of the fleet off Ushant, by which means our ships were enabled to pursue the enemy escaping from Brest, without loss of time. A depot of naval stores were formed at Falmouth, and a store-keeper, a master ship- wright, and a master attendant, with proper otfi- ears under their directions, were appointed. This improvement was intended to obviate the necessity of ships going to Plymouth to retit. The town of Falmouth derived an infinite ad- vantage from the arrangement. Leland, in his Itinerary, describes this place as ** a haven very notable and famous, and in a manner the most principal of al Brytaine." The town itself is large, and more populous than any borough in the county. The number of inhabitants return- ed under the |>opulation act, was, in 181 1, 3933. The church is a modern building, dedicated to King Charles; the parish having been taken out of St. Gluvias, by act of parliament, during the feign of Charles II. About a mile from Falmouth, at the extre- mity of a peninsula which constitutes the south- west boundary of the bay, stands Pendennis Castle, a most magnificent fortress, defending the west entrance of the harbour. The fortifi- cations were originally erected by Henry Vlll. but were improved to their present degree of strength in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, They 1 3 90 CORNWALL. extend nearly a mile in circumference. On the opposite side of the harbour is the castle of St. Mavves, which in every respect is inferior to Pendenuis. The little town of St. Mawes, how- ever, is a borough town, and has sent members to parliament ever since the year 1562, though the inhabitants were mostly fishermen, and the place itself without church, chapel, or meeting- house, till the year 1811, when a chapel was erected here at the expence of the Marquis of Buckingham. Dr. Maton found the shore about Falmouth abounding with shells, some of un- common species. The market at Falmouth is on Thursday, very large, and well supplied with all sorts of pro- visions. The packets for the West Indies sail twice a month from Falmouth, soon after the arrival of the mails from London, on the Saturday even- ing ; and for Lisbon every Saturday morning, if a packet be in the harbour. There is also a packet which sails from Fal- mouth soon after the arrival of the mails on the Saturday evening, for Halifax, Quebec, and New York, and goes and returns by way of Halifax, to and from New York, every month, except November, December, January, and February. Penryn is about two miles from Falmoulh, in the same hundred of Kerrier, 267 miles from London. This town is very tinely situated, surrounded by a bold and varied country, at the head of a branch or creek, running from Falmouth har- bour, of which there is a tine view from hence. TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 91 Penryn is a large town, with a pretty good trade ; it is remarkable for its markets, having no less than three : Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday. It stands in the two parishes of St. Gluvias and Roskrow; the church is at Gluvias, a small vil- lage about half a mile from the town. Penryn is a borough town, incorporated by James I.; the corporation consists of the mayor, eight alder- men, twelve common councilmen, a recorder, and inferior officers. The mayor and aldermen, and all the inhabitants paying scot and lot, in the whole about 140 voters, possess the right of parliamentary election. Penryn was an ancient manor belonging to tht see of Exeter, confirmed in its privileges by char- ter from Henry III. to William Brewer, bishop of Exon, then lord thereof. Walter Branscombe, bishop of Exeter, in consequence of a dream, built a collegiate church at Penryn, which he named Glasnith or Glasseny, for thirteen pre- bendaries, sometime before the year 1280. It was a magnificent building and had strong walls and towers to support it; but they are now all fallen to decay, and there are hardly any remains of the fabric. The church of St. Gluvias is a spacious and handsome building, surrounded by groves of wood ; its situation and accompaniments will repay the admirer of picturesque beauty for de- viating from the main road to observe them. The road for two miles from Penryn towards Truro passes through a well-cultivated and pic- turesque country, finely broken, and tolerably well covered with wood. About four miles from 92 CORNWALL Penryn, is Perran Wharf, at the head of a fine cove rnuning down to the sea: there is a beau- tiful villa here belonging- to Mr. Fox, who is one of the company proprietors of the wharf. There is no spot in Cornwall move improved than this, and hardly anymore beautiful. The coimeuces surrounding the cove to a large extent are co- vered with thriving plantaiions of the piueastcr. At the wharf tht re is an iron foundery. Sir William Lemon's seat, Carclew, is situ- ated on an eminence rising from the valley through nhich the Carnon stream-works are con- ducted. This place has been highly improved by the present possessor, and forms, with the grounds of Mr. Fox, above Perran Wharf, a beautiful and interesting contrast to the dreary and uncultivated mining country adjacent. Within about a mile and a half from Truro, there is a large smclting-house for tin, which contains ten reverberating furnaces, and eift- ploys about twenty men. Culm coal is used as the flux in the proportion of one-eighth to the ore. They smelt within six hours about six hundred weight of the latter, which yields about three hundred and fifty of tin. The furnaces are nearly six feet in height, about as many in length, and three feet or more in breadth. Tniroy (from Truru, three streets, as the word in Cornish signities), is very pleasantly situated in a valley at the conflux of two small rivers, the Kenwyn and St. Allen, which, with the branch of the Fal, running up from Falmouth, form a fine body of water, sufficient to bring up ships TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 03 of upwards of one hundred tons burthen. There was, in very early times, a castle here, described by Lelanti, to have been a quarter of a mile west of Truro, belonging to the Earls of Corn- wall, in his time " clean down." From this cas- tle the town is supposed to have derived its ori- gin. The site of the castle is still to be distin- guished. By an extraordinary ancient grant, llie mayor of this town was also mayor of Fal- mouth, a circumstance recognised in Queen Eli- zabeth's time ; but, in the last century, success- fully resisted by the inhabitants of Falmouth, who now enjoy the advantages arising from the jurisdiction of their own port. In point of situation, extent, and the regula- rity of its buildings, this town is well entitled to be denominated the metropolis of the county. — The streets are well paved and lighted ; the ex- pense is defrayed by a moderate assessment on each house. A literary society and county library have been established here, ever since the year 1792, by the Cornish noblemen and gentry. A county infirmary, erected under the patronage of the Prince of Wales, was opened in Kenwyn parish, a few years ago, and since supported by voluntary subscription: every de- partment of this establishment is admirably con- ducted, and it amply fulfils the beneficent in- tentions of the founders. In that part of the town called High Cross there is a theatre and an assembly-room. Truro is situated almost in the centre of the mining country, in the Powder Hundred, 267 miles from London. It has two markets. Wed- 94 CORNWALL. iiesday and Saturday ; this last very large, and well supplied v itli all sorts of provisions. This town was originally incorporated by Reginald Fitz-Roy, natural son of King Henry, by the name of a mayor and burgesses. The present corporation consists of the mayor, four alder- men, and twenty capital burgesses; and in these 25 persons is vested the right of returning the representatives in parliament for the borough. Upon the election of the mayor, it is the custom to deliver the town-mace to the lord of the ma- nor, who keeps it until he is paid sixpence for every house, for an acknowledgment. Trurc* is situated in three parishes; the centre being in ihe parish of St. Mary, and the east and west ends iti llu.^ parishes of St. Clement and Kenw^n. St. Mary's church is a handsome fa- bric, of a light and eiegaiit style of gothic archi- tecture, built of the mnor-stone, or white gra- nite, of the county. There are two aisles of uniform si^e, and one smaller. The steeple is modern, and not corresponding with the body of the church. The following curious inscrip- tion is on a monument in the chancel on the north side : - ^*. To the pious and well-deserved memory of O^ta Penals Phippen, who travelled over many parts of the world, and on the 24th March, 1620, was taken by the Turks, and made captive in Al- giers. He projected sundry plots for his liberty ; and on the ITthof June, 1627, with 10 other Chris- tian captives, Dutch and French (persuaded by his counsel and courage) he began a cruel Tight with 65 Turks, in their own ship, which lasted three hours, in which £ve of his companions were slaia. TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. f)5 Yet God made him conquer ; and so he brought the ship into Carte<;ina, bein^ of 400 tons and -^2 ord- nance. The King neHt for hun to Madrid to see hiai: be wa« offered a captain's place and the King^'s favour if he would turn Papist, which he refused. He sold all for 6,000l. returned into iinjland, and died at Lanerom, nth March, \6:i6. Melcorabe in Dorset was his place of birth, A^ed 54 ; and here lies earth on earth. George Fit/ Penals Pbippen, — Ipsius frater et hu- jus Ecclesia Reclri." Of late years the coinac:e of tin has been per- formed only at this place and Penzance, except in a few instances at Helston, and more tin is exported from Truro than from any other port in Cornwall. The blocks of tin, about 18 in- ches long, 12 broad, and three inches thick, lie in heaps about the streets unguarded, their great weight being a sufficient protection. Block tin is here converted into ingots and bars ; the weight of the former being from 60 to 70lbs. of the latter from eight ounces to one pound. The bars are for the Mediterraneati and Baltic ; the ingots go to the East Indies. There are also considerable quantities of copper exported from Truro to Swansea and Neath, in South Wales. The crucibles made at Truro are supposed to be the best to be got any where, they are composed of the china-stone mentioned in our account of the minerals of this county. The number of inhabitants returned under the population act was 2482, houses 381. Govern- ment have extensive barracks here, very beau- tifully situated. The celebrated Samuel Foote, 96 CORNWALL. Esq. was a native of this town, and born at the house now the Red Lion Inn. The road from Truro to St. Michael, for the first two or three railes, passes through a well- cultivated and fertile country, but for the residue of the stage the whole is moor and common, the chief production of which is dwarf furze. — The use of lime, (if this article could be at- tained at a moderate rate,) and inclosures, would ▼ery much improve the waste lands in this dis- trict. Saint Michael, or St. Mitchell, as it is commonly called, is at present, as indeed it has been for some years, a very inconsiderable place, consisting of not more than 13 houses. It is, however, a borough town, and returns two members to parliament. The inhabitants paying scot and lot have the right of voting. One side of this town is in the parish of Newlin, the other in the parish of St. Ene- dore. There is neither church or meeting-house at St. Michael. The face of the country from St. Michael to Bodmin presents very little interesting to the traveller. The road, which is very good, passes over large tracts of moor-land, chiefly covered with grass and furze. About three miles before we reach Bodmin, wc pass through Lanhivd, a small village, where, in a narrow valley, on the banks of a rivulet, are the ruins of a religious house, called St. Bennet's, formerly attached to the priory at Bodmin. A square tower, part of the chapel, and some stained glass in the win- dows^ are all that remain to mark the spot. Some TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 9? Some ornamented cloisters belonging to the ori- ginal fabric, were removed about thirty years ago by the proprietor. There are two high stone crosses in Lanhivet church-yard. Bodmin is a considerable town, situated between two hills, nearly in the centre of the county, about 12 miles from each of the two channels. It is built upon the northern side of one of the hills, and principally consists of one long street, run- ning east and west, rather badly paved. This town formerly contained a priory, a cathedral, and thirteen churches or free chapels, of which the foundations and sites of some are still to be distinguished. The present church is reckoned the largest in the county, and is cer- tainly very handsome within, but externally ir- regularly built. Before the see was removed to St. Germains, this was the cathedral of the diocese, and it belonged, as the conventual churcih, to the adjoining monastery of St.Petroc. Its spire was blown down by a violent storm of wind in 1699. Bodmin is a vicarage, valued in Liber Regis 131. 6s. 8d. By a charter obtained in 1799, the municipal government is vested in twelve aldermen, twen- ty-four common councilmen, and a town-clerk. Bodmin must have been very early constituted a borough ; for in an ancient record we find " the burgesses of Bodmin were fined 100s. anno 26 Henry II. for setting up a guild without war- rant." The right of returning the representa- tives in Parliament is confined to the corpora- tion. There are about 2050 inhabitants and K 253 f)8 CORNWALL. 253 houses. There is a good grammar school in this town founded by Queen Elizabeth, with a small eiuloument annexed, to uhich is added a stipend from the corporation. A commodious county gaol, built about forty years ago accord- ing to the plans recommended by the late Mr. Howard, is situated very advantageously for air and salubrity about half a mile north-west of the town. The county meetings are generally held here. The registry and court of the archdeacon of Cornwall are kept here. It was formerly a flourishing and extensive place, and famous for its manufactures. In the month of July, on the Monday after St. Becket's day, there is a curious festival still celebrated at Bodmin, called Bodmin Riding. The common people ride out into the country, and, returning, proceed to the priory with gar- lands of flowers, which they there present ac» cording to immemorial usage, It is supposed that, originally, this ofl'ering of flowers was at the shrine of Thomas a Becket, and that the saint had the honour of superseding some Pagan deity. From Bodmin we shall make a digression, in order to visit the towns of Lestwithieland Fowey. The road, for the most part, passes through a beautiful and cultivated country, particularly as we approach Lestwithiel. About three miles from Bodmin, half a mile from the road, is Lan- hydrocy a fine seat, now belonging to Mrs. 3agQal Agar. It is a venerable mansiou^ and has TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 99 has been considerably improved. It is beauti- fully surrounded by a tinely-wooded park. Lestwithielf In Powder hundred, 245 miles from London, is supposed, by Camden and Dr. Borlase, to be upon the site, or nearly so of the ancient UzcUa ; but there has hitherto been no actual discovery of any Roman remains to support the conjecture. Camden says, " The town stood on the liigh hill, where is now the ancient castle of Lestormin (Restormel,) but is now removed into the valley. Vechei, m British, signifys high and lofty, whence Wuxellodunum, in Gaul, has its name." — But of this ancient town, in the situation Camden places it, no remains of walls or build- ings have been discovered to confirm his con- jectures ; and its occupation by the Romans, as a military station, cannot, by any known evi- dence, be correctly ascertained. In Leland's Itinerary we find, *' Lostwithiel having a market, is the shire-town of Cornwall ; for there the shire is kept by the shrive once in the month : also at this town ys quynag (coinage) of tynne twyce a year, and by the shire-hawl appere auu- cyent buyldings." The town at present consists of about 132 houses, disposed in two parallel streets, narrow and roughly paved, running from the river to the bottom of a sleep hill. Here are 825 in- habitants. All the buildings are of stone, and covered with slate, which is got at little expence and in great plenty in the neighbourhood. The church is small, consisting of one large and two small aisles, with a tower of slate-stone, about K 2 50 100 CORNWALL. 50 feet high at the west end, and on it an ele- gant gothic lantern, nine feet high, above which is a handsome spire. The church is dedicated to St. Bartholomew, and there is to he seen in it a curious octangular font, composed of one large block of freestone, supported on five clustered columns, and covered with rude and ill-executed carved work, representing a huntsman strangely accoutred, two lions, an ape's head, with a snake twirled round it, a dog seizing a rabbit, a bishop's head, and the crucifixion, with a figure standing on each side. The external walls of an ancient building, called the Palace, being formerly the residence of the Dukes of Cornwall, are to be seen near the church, on the south side. The building is now converted into a place of security for pri- soners brought here for trial at the sessions holden at Christmas and Midsummer. Lestwithiel is a very ancient corporation, and has enjoyed for many centuries considerable privileges, conferred upon it by Richard, king of the Romans, who by charter constituted this town and Pinknek, a place adjoining, into one free borough, granting its burgesses the liberty of a guild mercatory. The anchorage dues of Fowey harbour, and various duties on coal, salt, corn, malt, and other commodities, brought into that port, belong to the burgesses of Lest- withiel. The corporation consists of a mayor, six capital burgesses, and seventeen assistants, or common-councilmen, who are chosen annu- ally by the mayor and burgesses. The right of electing TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 101 electing the members of parliament belongs to these twenty- four persons. About a mile north of Lestwithiel, upon the summit of a high hill, are the magnificent ruins of Restormel Castle, in very early times the principal residence of the Earls of Cornwall. Richard, king of the Romans, and his son Ed- mund, kept their court here. It is impossible to view these venerable remains, surrounded as they are by the most beautiful scenery, without feeling the mind strongly impressed with the idea of the former grandeur of this ancient seat of royalty. The castle and manor of Restormel, with its demesne, were part of the inheritance of the Dukes and Earls of Cornwall, annexed to it by Edward the Third. A mansion, formerly part of the estate named Trinity House, has since become the property of Lord Mount Edgecumbe, and is occupied by his tenant. Leland, in his account of Restormel, says, " The park of Restormel is hard by the north side of the town of Lostwithiel. Tynne-works and good wood in this park. There is a castle on an hill in this park, where, sometymes, the Erls of Cornwall lay. The base court is sore defaced ; the fair large dungeon yet standeth, A chapel, cast out of it, is a newer work than it, and now unrofid. A chapel of the Trinite, in the park, not far from the castelle. The little round castelle of Lostermel standyth in the King's Park, ny to Loswithiel/' In the neighbourhood of Lestwithiel is Boconoc House, the seat of the late Lord Camelford. The house is more remarkable for its convenience K 3 than 102 CORNWALL. than its magnificence. Tlie furniture is rare and valuable; among which the following articles are particularly entitled to notice, viz. a beautiful antiquecabinetof tortoise-shell, inlaid with silver, representing all the principal subjects of Ovid's Metamorphoses ; a small table, and a pair of carved chairs of ebony, made out of the cradle belonging to the children of James the Fi rst ; and a very elegant assemblage of curious old china. Among the paintings are several good por- traits by Sir Godfrey Kneller, Sir Peter Lely, and Sir Joshua Reynolds. The house stands upon a lawn of nearly 100 acres, adjoining the park, in which are the traces of very ancient lead-mines, one of which is said to have been worked in the reign of Charles I. and again in 1750; but soon after relinquished, it not being rich enough to defray the expences. The grounds in the neighbourhood of the house are varied, well wooded and watered, and the rides through them, to the extent of about six miles, are very pleasant. The parish of Boconoc is but small ; the church appears to have been built in the time of Henry VI. and formerly contained many ancient monu- ments ; but almost all of them were destroyed when the church was repaired and new paved. The number of houses in this parish are com- puted to be 47, and the inhabitants about 236. Trewardreth. Between Lestwithiel and Fowey is Trewar- dreth, or Tywardreath, or House on the Sands, within about five miles of the latter place, on the border of St. Austel Bay. At this place 3 there TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION, 103 there was a Benedictine monastery, which was dissolved by Henry VIII. Its revenues then amounted to 1231. 9s. 3d. per annum. In the church here are some ancient oak seats, curi- ously carved. Numerous Roman coins, chiefly of the lower empire, have been found at Trewar- dreth, and many of them are to be seen in the cabinet at Menabilly, hereafter mentioned. Fowey. Fowey, or Fawey, is a borough town, situated on the western bank of the river of the same name. In the hundred of Powder, and distant 239 miles from London. The houses extend, along the bank of the river, for nearly a mile ; the streets are very irregular, narrow, and full of angles, almost impassable for carriages. The market-house is spacious, and the town- hall is over it. The borough of Fowey has returned mem- bers to parliament ever since the 13th year of the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and the number of the voters, being the Prince's tenants, and in- habitants paying scot and lot, is estimated at 60. The government of the town is vested in a mayor, eight aldermen, a recorder, and two as- sistants. The mayor and aldermen are justices of the peace. Under a charter granted by James II. the office of recorder was appointed ; before this the chief magistrate was called the portreeve. Fowey, and the neighbouring country, suf- fered much during the civil wars between Charles I. and his parliament: and in 1644 the parliament general, the Earl of Essex, was compelled to embark at Fovvey, leaving the greatest 104 CORNWALL. greatest part of his army to surrender at dis- cretion ; himself escaping witli Lord Roberts and some other ofiicers to Plymouth. The manor, of Fowey formerly belonged to the priory of Trewardreth ; on the suppression of religious houses it was annexed, by Henry VIII. to the duchy of Cornwall, and now held by the corporation at a small quit rent. There are two good free-schools belonging to the town, and an alms-house for eight decayed widows. The church is a handsome lofty build- ing, consisting of one large aisle and two smaller ; at the west end is the tower, ornamented by rich carved work, and supported by buttresses ter- minated by pinnacles. It appears from the stile of architecture to have been built about the time of Edward IV. and is dedicated to Fim- barras, an Irish saint, said to have been a bishop of Cork in the 5th century. Fowey is a vicarage, and valued iu Liber Regis at 101. Place or Treffry House, on the north side of the church is thus mentioned by Leland : ** The Frenchmen divers times assailed this town, and last most notably, about Henry the VI. tyme, when the wife of Thomas Treury (Treffry) the II. with her men, repelled the French out of her house in her husband's absence ; whereupon Thomas Trnery builded a right faire and strongly- embattled tower in his house, and embattling all the walls of the house, in the manner of a cas- telle, and unto this day it is the glorie of the town building in Fowey." Lelaad further says of Fowey, ** When Car- diobam TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 105 dinham gave Fawey to Tywartrarlh Priorie, it was but a small fischar town. The glorie of Fawey rose by the warres in King Edward I. and III. and Henry the Vth's day, partly by piracy, and so waxing rich fell al to merchan- dize, so that the town was haunted with shippes of diverse nations, and their shippes went to all nations. The shippes of Fawey sailing by Rhy and Whinchelvsey, abeut Edward the Illd. tyme, would vale no bonet being required, whereupon Rhy and Winchelsey men and they fought, when Fawey men had Victoria, and thereupon bare their arms mixt with the arms of Rhy and Winchelsey, and then rose the name of the gallants of Fawey. " When warre in Edward the IVth's. days seased bytwene the French men and Englisch, the men of Fawey, usid to pray {prey^) kept their shippes, and assaled the French men in the sea, agaynst King Edwardes commandment ; whereupon the captaines of the shippes of Fawey were taken and sent to Loudon, and Dartemoulh men commanded to fetche their shippes away ; at whyche time Dartmouth men toke away, as it is sayde, the great chayne that was made to be drawn over the haven from the towr to towr." Carew mentions in his survey V that it is reported 60 tall ships did at one time belong to the harbour, and that they furnished 37 sail for the siege of Calais." These extracts are made to shew the former consequence of the town of Fowey. The harbour of Fowey is spacious and com- modious, and had formerly a strong fort on each side 106 CORNWALL. side of the entrance, built by Edward IV, The remains of the forts arc still visible. At present the harbour is defended by two small batteries of modern construction, and by St. Catherine's fort, built by the town in the time ot Henry Vni. upon the summit of a most magnificent hill of rocks bounding one of the creeks of the river. The scenery of Fovvey Harbour, and in the immediate neighbourhood, is particularly grand ; on the Polwan sid« of the river, to \\hich there is a ferry for toot passengers, the cliffs and pro- jecting jVagmtnts of the broken rocks are of the boldest character. Upon the summit of one of the highest are the ruins ot St. Saviour's chapel, which may be seen a great distance : on the Fowey sicic the landscape is equally pleasing. The gitaiest part of the inhabitants ot Fovvey are concetued, either directly or indirectly, with some brvinch of the pilchard fishery : it is com- puted that uj)wards of 28,000 hogsheads of fish are brought nito the port every year. Upon the appjoach of fish there are people called JHuem, stationed on the rocks, to watch the couise of tlie shoals for the information of the fisiifcriiien. About three miles west of Fowey is Mena- hilly, the seat of VV. Rashleigh, Esq. one of the members of the present parliament for iliis bo- rough, a gentleman universally respectecUb rough- out the county. It is a handsome stone build- ing, situnted on an eminence at a small distance from the sea, commanding an extensive view over the British Channel. Mr. Philip Rashleigh favoured TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 107 favoured the public with a valuable work, en- titled '• Specimens of British Minerals/' from the magnificent collection at this house, which was shewn, with great liberality, to every per- son of science by Mr. Rashleigh himself. It is supposed to be the ihiest collection of minerals of any in Cornwall, or perhaps in the whole kingdom. Of its extent some idea may be formed, when it is told that there are in it 1000 varieties of copper ore. Among the most re- markable specimens of Cornish mineralogy in this cabinet, "are green carbonate of lead and apatite, with quartz from near Helstone; blende in twenty-sided crystals, and green fluor in crystals of twenty-four sides, from St. Agnes; crystallized antimony, with red blende on quartz, from Huel Boys, near Port Isaac : yellow copper ore with opal, from Roskeir; and arseniate of copper, in cubes of a bright green colour, from Huel Carpenter." The traveller of taste will also be delighted with the elegant grotto, built by Mr. Rashleigh in a beautiful secluded situation, near the sea side, in the little cove of Polredmouth. The grotto is constructed of crystals, pebbles, and shells, in the form of an octagon ; two of the sides of which are appropriated to the door and the window, which front each other. The six remaining sides form receptacles, four of which contain specimens of ores found in the county, and two are filled by organic fossils, polished agates, jaspers, &c. shells, coraloideS, specimens of quartz, fluors, and various other substances occupy the intermediate spaces. In this grotto are 108 CORNWALL. are preserved two links of the chain found in Fowey Harbour, of a triangular form, incrusted with shells, corals, &c. supposed to be a part of the chain which extended from tower to tower for the ancient defence of the harbour : the diameter of each link is sixteen inches. Among the mineralogicai specimens, one of Chalcedony deserves particular notice, for its beauty and magnitude. In the middle of the grotto is a table inlaid with thirty-two polished specimens of granite, all found in the county of Cornwall. Returning to Bodmin, we proceed on our journey to Launceston, a distance of twenty miles, over a very good road. The greatest part of the country is open, and chiefly moors, covered with gorse, and on the higher parts some good grass ; which, however, suf- fers much deterioration from the practice of paring the surftice, and gathering the dung for fuel. Launceston. The town of Launceston, in East Hundred, 213 miles from London, is pleasantly situated on a steep hill ; at the foot of which is the river Attery, a little above its junction with the Ta- niar. The ancient name of this place was Dun- heved, the swelling hill ; it was also called Lanstephadon, or Stephen-Clmrch-Town ; but its present appellation is no doubt derived from Lan cesfer ton, or Church-castle town. The ruins now remaining of the ancient castle sur- round and cover a very considerable extent of ground. Borlase, who examined this building witli TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION, 109 with great attention, thus describes it: — "The principal entrance is on the north-east, the gate-way 120 feet long ; whence, turning to the right, you mount a terrace, running parallel to the rampart till you come to the angle, on which there is a round tower, now called the Witches' Tower, from which the terrace runs away to the left at right angles, and continues on a level pa- rallel to the rampart, which is nearly of the thickness of 12 feet, till you come to a semi- circular tower, and, as I suppose, a guard-room and gate. From this the ground rises very quick, and, through a passage of seven feet wide, you ascend the covered way betwixt two walls, which are pierced with narrow windows for observation, and yet cover the communica- tion between the base-court and the keep or dungeon. The whole keep is 93 feet diameter; it consisted of three wards : the wall of the first ward was not quite three feet thick ; and there- fore, I think, could only be a parapet for soldiers to fight from, and defend the brow of the hill. Six feet within it stands the second wall, which is twelve feet thick, and has a staircase three feet wide, at the left hand of the entrance, run- ning up to the top of the rampart : the entrance of this stair- case has a round arch of stone over ft. Passing on to the left, you find the entrance into the innermost ward, and on the left of that entrance a winding staircase conducts you to the top of the innermost rampart ; the wall of which is 10 feet thick, and 32 feet high from the floor ; the inner room is 18 feet 6 inches diameter; it was divided by a planking into L two 110 CORNWALL, two rooms. The upper room had to the east and west two large openings, which were both windows and (as I am inclined to tliink) doors, also in time of action to pass from this dungeon out upon the principal rampart, from which the chief defence was to be made ; for it must be observed, that the second ward was covered with a flat roof, at the height of that rampart, which made the area very roomy and convenient for numbers. These openings, therefore, upon occasion, served as passages for the soldiers to go from one rampart to the other. In the upper room of the innermost building there was a chimney to the north ; underneath there was a dungeon, which had no lights. The lofty taper hill, on whicii this strong keep is built, is partly natural and partly artificial. It spread farther in the town anliently than it does now ; and, by the radius of it, was 320 feet diameter, and very high." Borlase supposes this castle to be older than the year 900, and says it is not improbable that this spot might have been fortitied by the Romans. There was, undoubtedly, a castle here before the Conquest, of which Othamarus de Knivet was hereditary constable, and dis- placed by the Conqueror, who gave both it and the town to Roger, Earl of Moreton, with the earldom of Cornwall, and many other manors and estates. William, his son and heir, kept his court here, and, probably, made so many altera- tions and additions, that he has by some been considered as the founder. From him it fell to the crown, with his other lands, and was at length TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. Ill lengtli made, and still continues, a parcel of the estates of the dutchy of Cornwall. Leiand, mentioning this castle, says, ** the hill on which the keep stands, is large and of a terrible height, and the arx (i. e. keep) of it, having three several wards, is the strongest, but not the biggest, that 1 ever saw in any ancient work ni England/^ Two of the ancient town-gates are still sta.>diijg; and in Leland's time, the wall which surronnded the town was entire. At the entrance or ihe White Hart Inn, Dr. Maton observed a noble Saxon arch. By charter of Philip and Mary (granted in 1555, since confirmed under several subsequent reigns,) the government of the town was vested in a mayor, recorder, and eight aldermen, who, ^vith the free burgesses, have the right of elect- ing the representatives in parliament. The bo- rough made its first return in the *23d of Edward I. and had a raavor as early as the Imie of Edward IV. 7"he church is dedicated to St. Mary Magda- len, and is a very handsome structure ; the body built with square blocks of the moor-stone, or granite, ornamented with curious carved work. At the west end are two or three tenements, which completely separate the body of the church from the tov,er, which is built of different mate- rials, and appears to be of much greater antiquity. At the east end of the building there is a figure of the Magdalen, in a recumbent posture, of very rude workmanship. It is an extraordinary circumstance, that the L 2 mayor 112 CORNWALL. mayor for the time being is vicar of this church, and appoints a curate for the year. Some parts of the old wall that surrounded the town still remain ; the houses are in general well built, but the streets are narrow, and badly paved. There are two charity-schools, main- tained by voluntary subscriptions, for the edu- cation of the infant-poor, and a free grammar- school, founded and endowed by Queen Eli- zabeth. The market at Launceston, on Saturday, is well supplied with all sorts of provisions, at very moderate prices, during the time of peace, but in war-time a multitude of jobbers attend to buy all they can to carry to Plymouth. The inhabitants of Launceston suffer much incon- venience in summer, through a scarcity of spring- water ; their chief supply, in this season, being from the ancient well formerly belonging to the castle. Coals are also an expensive article. Many people used to be employed, at this place and Newport, in the manufacture of serges, for the clothiers at Exeter. The borough of Newport so immediately joins the town of Launceston that it appears to the traveller like its suburbs, and it was formerly under the same jurisdiction. The right of re- turning members to parliament for this borough has been exercised ever since the sixth year of Edward VL The right of election is vested in two officers, called vianders, annually chosen at the court-leet, held by the lord of the manor, and all the inhabitants paying scot and Jot. The TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 113 The whole number of voters does not amount to 30. From Launceston we shall make an excursion towards Plymouth, in order to visit Caliington, Saltash, St. Germains, and Ramehead. Between Launceston and Caliington the country is pleas- ant,- and as well cultivated, perhaps, as asiy part of Cornwall ; but it affords little to interest the traveller in any respect. The town of Caliington, about 213 miles from London, in point of buildings or situation, is not entitled to much praise ; the former being low and unpleasant, the latter rather mean, and principally comprised in one broad street, run- ning north and south. Its woollen manufactory, however, gives it some little importance, and affords employment to some poor people. This town has no charter of incorporation, but is governed by a portreeve, annually chosen at the court-leet of the lord of the manor ; when all who have lived a year in the town are ad- mitted free burgesses, and vote for the members of parliament ; the portreeve being, by prescrip- tion, the returning officer. It was first sum- moned to send representatives to parliament in the year 1585, the 27th of Queen Elizabeth ; which it has continued to do ever since. The number of voters are about 50. Caliington is member of the parish of Southill, about two miles distant, and has a large chapel of ease, " a spacious towering fabrick," within the precincts of the town, rebuilt at the sole ex- pense of Nicholas de Asheton, Esq. serjeant at L 3 law. 114 CORNWALL. law, to vvbose memory there is a fine monument erected in the chancel. Callington has a weekly market on Wednes- day, and two annual fairs. There is a curious mural monument, in the chancel of the church at the village of Llan- dulph, a few miles from Callington, with the following remarkable inscription, in Roman cha- racters, on a brass plate : *' Here lyeth the body of Theodore Paleologus, of Pesaro, in Italye, descended from the Imperyal Line of the last Christian Emperor of Greece, being the Son of Camilio, the Son of Prosper, the Sonne of Theodore, the Son of John, the Sonne of Tho- mas, the second Brother of Constantine Paleologus, that raygned in Constantinople, until subdewed by the Turks; who married with Mary, the daughter of William Ball, of Hadlye, in Souffolke, Gent, and had issue 5 children; Theodore, John, Ferdinando, Maria, and Dorothy ; and depted this Lyfe, at Clyf- ton, the 21st of January, 1636." Over the inscription is the imperial eagle. About six miles upon the Tavistock-road, to the left of Callington, the Tamar is crossed, from hence, throughout its southern course, dividing the two counties, the country is extremely beau- tiful and picturesque. Near the spot first no- ticed, there are several copper and tin mines. About three miles southward is Cahtock Churchy a neat Gothic building of granite, with a handsome tower, situated on the top of a very steep woody hill, forming one of the banks of the river. One mile from hence is Hareicood House, the seat of Walter Roberts, Esq. an elegant modern building. TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. Il5 building. From Calstock church-yard, and Mr. Foote's grounds, are fine views of some of the most romantic parts of the Tamar, in the neigh- bourhood of Tavistock, New-bridge, and the Weir-head. In the parish of Calstock is Cotehele, or Cut- tayle House, an ancient mansion belonging to the Earl of Mount Edgecumbe, situated on a bold knoll, on the western bank of the river. The antiquity of the furniture of this mansion will excite much curiosity : it is said to be of the workmanship of the time of Henry VHI. and Queen Elizabeth, and to have been in the house ever since the reign of the latter sovereign. The hall contains a great collection of ancient ar- mour; and there are many other curiosities, well deserving the traveller's notice. Cotehele is so surrounded by wood of very fine description, that the Tamar can only be seen from the windows of the higherapartments. The woods between the house and the river contain some fine Spanish cheseuts, of immense size, not inferior in grandeur to the proudest oak, contri- buting very much to the beauty of the scene, which is rendered still more picturesque, by a small gothic chapel, built upon a rocky emi- nence, rising abruptly from the Tamar. Accord- ing to Carew, this chapel was built by Sir Richard Edgecumbe, in grateful memory of his escape from the tyranny of Richard HI. About three miles below Cotehele, is Pentilly Castle, beautifully situated on the rising banks of the Tamar : the declivities towards the river luxuriantly clothed with wood, consisting of elm and IIG CORNWALL, and lime trees of great size and beauty. The building, from its embattled form, has obtained the appellation of castle, but is of modern con- struction. In the grounds of this seat is a lofty bank, adorned with a tower, to which is attached a re- markable history, which Mr. Gilpin, in his ** Ob- servations on the Western Parts of England,'" thus narrates : " Mr. Tilly, once the owner of Peutilly House, was a celebrated atheist of the last age. He was a man of wit, and had by rote all the ribaldry and coriimon-place jest against religion and scripture, which are well suited to displir.y pertness and folly, and to unsettle a gid- dy mind ; but are offensive to men of sense, what- ever their opinions may be, and are neither in- tended nor adapted to investigate truth. The brilliancy of Mr. Tilly's wit, however, carried him a degree further than we often meet with in the annals of profaneness. In general, the witty atheist is satisfied with entertaining his contem- poraries; but Mr. Tilly wished to have his sprightiiness known to posterity. With this view, in ridicule of the resurrection, he obliged his ex- ecutors to place his dead body, in his usual garb, and in his eibow-chair, upon the top of a hill, and to arrange on a table before him, bottles, glasses, pipes, and tobacco. In this situation he ordered himself to be immured in a tower of such dimensions as he prescribed, where he pro- posed, he said, patiently to wait the event. All this was done ; and the tower, still inclosing its tenant, remains as a monument of his impiety and profaneness. The country people shudder as they go uear it," Saltash, TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 117 Saltash. The borough town of Saltash, whicli is one of the principal entrances into Cornwall, and about 220 miles from London, is situated upon the side of a steep hill close to the river Taraar, from which the principal street runs at right angles. It is distant about three miles from Plymouth Dock, to which there is a ferry over the Taraar, called the Crimble Passage. The town is built upon a solid rock, and the houses are built of the stone got upon the spot, rising one above another up the hill, at the summit of which stands the chapel and the town-hall, which has been rebuilt about forty years. It is sup- ported by several pillars, and a market is held in the space below. The streets of Saltash are very narrow, and the houses ill built. A large proportion of the inhabitants are fishermen ; the corporation pos- sessing tlie sole property of the oyster fishery in the whole river, except between Candlemas and Easter. They have also a jurisdiction on the ri- ver Tamar, down to the mouth of the port, by virtue of which they demand anchorage and sal- vage from all foreign ships and vessels that en- ter ; they also raise a considerable yearly reve- nue on boats and barges passing on the river Ta- mar. The profits of the Crimble Ferry also form a part of the revenues of the corporation, and the produce in 1802 was 3411. ; during the same year they received 3251. for the rent of the oyster fishery, and 151. for the market tolls. Saltashis in the parish of St. Stephen's, a little village IIB CORNWALL. village about one mile distant, and was first made a borough by Reginald de Valletort, to whom the manor belonijed, in the btginning of the reign of Henry IV. It was incorporated by a charter of King Charles II. and is governed by a mayor and six aldermen, who are styled the council of the borough ; and with the burgesses, choose the recorder. Another charter was ob- tained, during the present reign, upon the same principle as that bestowed by Charles II. re- serving to the crown the power of displacing any of the corporation at pleasure. The number of burgage holdfjrs, who possess the right of elect- ing the two mecibers is about 70. The first re- turn of representatives was made in the reign of Edward VI. The church of St. Stephen's is a spacious fa- bric built of stone in thin layers, and handsomely covered with slate. It has a high tower at the west end, and consists of three aisles : Here all the parochial duty of Saltash is performed. Abour 300 years ago, it is said, that a leaden coffin was dug up in the chancel containing the body of a very large man, who, from some writ- ing engraved on the lead, appeared to have been one of the ancient Dukes of Cornwall. There is a curious stone in the porch, at the entrance of the church-yard, called a hack stone, where they rest the bodies brought for interment. It is near- ly the shape of a coffin : the same kind of stone- bearer is found in other Cornish church-yards. At a small distance from the town of Saltash is the ancient castle of Trematon, occupying the summit of a high hill, westward from St. Ste- phen's. TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 119 phen's. The remains of this once formidable structure, erected either just before or about the time of the Norman conquest, are still very con- siderable, and more perfect and entire than any other in Cornwall. The gate in particular is in good preservation. The entrance is under a square tower, strongly supported by three arches, between which are grooves for the portcullisses. This leads into a court, at one end of which stands the keep, mounted on the top of a conical hill, which appears on the outside to be of a con- siderable height, but next the court is not more than 30 feet high. The building is an oval, whose interior conjugate diameter measures nearly GO feet, its transverse 50. It has no win- dows, but was probably aired and illuminated by openings made into a small internal area or court in its centre, called by builders a well. The walls of this keep are ten feet thick, and round the top runs a crenellated parapet of two feet thick, the other eight form the terre-plaine of the rampart. This castle now belongs to the Prince of Wales, whose officers hold a court here twice a year, for receiving rents and other pur- poses. Nearly opposite to Trematon castle is Anthony House, the seat of the Right Honourable Regi- nald Pole Carew. It is a large square modern building, very pleasantly situated on a branch of the Lynker creek. At this house there is a collection of old portraits and some other good paintings. There is a singular promontory at the south- eastern point of the county, called the Rame, or Ram 1*20 CORNWALL. Ram Head, jutting into the British Channel, upon the sunimit of which are the ruins of a small vaulted chapel, which makes a conspicuous land-mark to searaeu navigating the Channel, being visible at many miles distant. About six. miles from Saltash, and 220 from London, is the borough of St. Germain's, an in- considerable town, pleasantly situated near the Lyuker creek. The town derives its name from St. Germanus, a bishop of Burgundy, who came over hither to suppress the Pelagian heresy. — The inhabitants are chiefly fishermen, and the number, as returned under the last population act, amounts to 2139. There are about 383 houses in all, built upon an irregular rock, in the form of an amphitheatre, washed by the river Tidy. The occupiers of houses, residing one whole year within the town, are nominally in- vested with the right of returning two members to Parliament ; but the proprietors of what are called burgage tenements, of which at present there are not more than twenty, are the real electors. The town is governed by a portreeve,, annually elected at the court-leet of the lord of the manor. This othcer is also bailiflf of the bo- rough, and can make any house in the place the prison of the person he arrests. Here is a small free-school, supported by the Elliot Family. The parish of St. Germain's, is the largest in the whole county; being twenty miles in circum- ference, containing seventeen villages, and a greater number of gentlemen's seats and lord- ships than any other parish in the kingdom. The most remarkable objects worthy of notice in TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 121 in this town are the remains of the cathedral church, and the seat of Lord Elliot. Tiie church was originally included within the body of a priory supposed to have been found p.d by King Athelstan, and dedicated to St. Ger- maine, bishop of Auxere in France, the St.Ger- manus before-mentioned, win) came over into Britain A. D. 429. Here were at first several canons, and King Athelstan is said to have ap- pointed one canon to the bishopric of their see in 936. Bui Tamar and Borlase both think it more probable that the episcopal see for Corn- wall was not fixed here, till after the burning of tlie bishop's house and cathedral church at Bod- min in the year 981; after which King Canute more amply endowed this church, and about 1050, Leofric bishop of Crediton, then the only see for the counties of Cornwall and Devon, having united both bishoprics in the church of St. Peter at Exeter, changed the seculars here into regular canons ; the yearly revenues of this priory were valued in the 26th of Henry VIH. at 2431. 8s. its site was granted by that monarch to Catherine Champernoun. The great and >5mall tithes of this parish belong to the dean and chapter of Windsor, and the officiating cler- gymen receive a small salary from them. The church was originally more extensive '- than at present ; but the necessary repairs hav- ing been neglected, the ancient chancel fell sud- denly to the ground in the year 1592, only a short time after the celebration of divine ser- vice, it now consists of two aisles and a nave ; the latter, and the south aisle are of nearly equal M proportions : 122 CORNWALL. proportions ; but the north aisle is lower and more narrow. 'J'he west front is furnished with two towers, both of which have apparently been once octa- gonal. The upper part of the south tower is now square, and surmounted with embrazures, though the lower part exactly corresponds with that on the north, which is nearly enveloped with ivy. Between the towers is the ancient entrance door-way, which is a very fine circular receding arch, in the shape and ornament somewhat simi- lar to that at Dunstable. Its whole width is twenty feet; of this space six feet are allotted to the door, and the remainder to the pillars and sides of the arch. The pillars are four on each side, having plain square bases and capitals, and are contained in semicircular niches. The arch contains seven mouldings: the two innermost are plain and round ; the third and fourth have a zig- zag ornament ; the next is round, the sixth and seventh are zig-zag. A sculptured ornament of leafage surrounds the whole, and is terminated at each end with some rude ornament resting on the capital of the outer pillars. Between the pillars is a zig-zag ornament in alternate succes- sion. The height of the pillars is seven feet six inches ; that of the door ten feet. The whole height of the arch is about sixteen feet. Over the arch is a pediment, with a cross at the top, resembling an heraldic cross patee ; with a circle on each side, is a small pointed window, and above these are three small narrow round-headed windows. The north aisle is divided from the nave by five short thick round columns, each 6 connected TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 123 connected with a half pillar opposite to it in the north-wall, by a low surbased arch. All the capi- tals of the columns are square and curiously orna- mented with Saxon sculpture. 'J'he third from the wesr end is embellished with grotesque figures, having bodies resembling dogs, opposed to each other, with their fore-parts meeting at the angle of the capital in one head ; the upper part hu- man, but the lower like a scollop shell. Above these range six plain arches, some of them ap- parently of the same age and style with those of the nave of St. Alban's, in Hertfordshire. In several windows of this aisle are a few coats of arms, on painted glass. The architecture of the south aisle is very dissimilar from that in the north. Here we discover the ornamented niches, and the pointed arch windows. The six arches which divide it from the nave arc pointed : the two western arches are quite plain, and very sharp : the pillars that support them are round, massive and clumsy : the four eastern are higher and less pointed, having round capitals, orna- mented with mouldings ; the pillars sustaining them are more slender. The windows of this aisle are large and handsome ; they are divided into compartments by stone mullions ; but aii are dissimilar in their tracery. In the south wall, near the middle of the aisle is a niche, orna- mented with sculpture, supposed to have be- longed to some ancient monument of an abbot ; but no particulars to it are now extant. The table of the recess in the wall is covered with a stone, seven feet six inches long, which appears to have had some figure let into it ; but the form M 2 of 124 CORNWALL. of the outline cannot be distinguished. Tlie length of the church within the walls, is 104feef, six inches ; its breadth, G7 feet, six inches. " la that part now employed as the chancel is a rude ancient seat, generylly called the bishop's chair, but more probably nothing more than a stall-seat of one of the monks: several of the samt kind being yet preserved in the church at Bodmin Its height is about three feet. Be- neaili the seat is carved the figure of a hunter, with game on his shoulder, and accompanied by dogs. The chair is now placed on part of a tesbelated pavement, about fifty yards from the present east window : this pavement was about ten teet square. Nearly ten feet east of it was the foundation of a wall, which, from its thickness and materials, seems to have been the original extent of the building." Leihnd, in his account of this church, says, *' aUo upon another creke west of the said river (Tamar) and nearer up, is a town called St. Germains, wherein is now a priori of black canons, and a paroche church, in the body of the same. Beside the high altar of the same priori, in the right hand, is a tumbe in the walle with an image of a bishop; and over the tumbe a XI bishops, paynted with their nanies and verses, a> token of so many bishops beried there, or that there had been so many bishops of Cornwall that had theyre sect theer : and at this day the bishop of Exeter hath a place called Cuddon Boke, joining hard upon the south-east of the said town." There are seve- ral monuments in the church to the memories of TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 125 of the Elliot's, Scawan's, and Glanville's fami- lies, anciently possessing considerable property in this neighbourhood, which is still enjoyed by their descendants. The monument most wor- thy notice, was executed by the celebrated sculptor, Rysbrack, and erected to the memory of Edward Elliot (the present Lord Elliot's uncle) by his widow. There is a curious Latin inscription of eight lines, upon a monument belonging to one of the Glanvilles, so contrived that the initial letters of the words at the beginning and middle of the lines, when connected, form the words johan- NAS GLANViLLE, and the letters at the end of each line minister. Carew, in his survey of Cornwall, in describ- ing the town of St. Germain's, and the priory, relates, in the following words, the manner in which the site was obtained by Champernoun : " The Church Town raustereth many inhabi- tants and sundry ruins, but little wealth ; occa- sioned either through abandoning their fishing trade, as some conceive, or by their being aban- doned by the religious people, as the greater sort imagined : for in former times the Bishop of Corn- wall's see was from St. Petrock's, in Bodmyn, re- moved hither, as from hence, vfhen the Cornish diocese united with Devon, it passed to Crediton. But this first loss received relief through a suc- ceeding priory, which, at the general suppression^ changing his note with his coat, is now named Port Elliot; and, by the owner's charity, distri- buteth pro virili the alms accustomably expected and expended at such places. Neitlier will it, I think, much displease you to hear how this gen- tleman's ancestor, of whom Master Eliot bought it, came by the same. *' John 12f5 CORNWALL. ** John Chanipernoune, sonne and heire appa- rent to Sir Philip, of Devon, in Henry the Eighth's time, followed the court, and through liis pleasant conceits, of which much might be spoken, won some good grace with the king. Now when the golden shower of the dissolved abbey- lands rayned well near into everv gr-i-er's mouth, some two or three gentlemen, the King's servants, and Master Champernoune's acquainlaoce, waited at a doore, when *he King was to pass forth, with purpose to beg such a matter at his hands. Our gentleman became innuisilive to know their suit; they made strange to iujpart. This while out coraes the King: they kr.eel down, so doth Master Cham- pernoune; they prefer their petition, the King graunts ; they render humble thanks ; and so Champernoune. Afterwards he requireth his share ; they deny it: he appeales to the King: the King avowe--h his equal meaning in the largesse; where- on the overtaken companions were fayne to allot him his priory for his partage." Port EUioty the sral of Lord Elliot, occupies the site, and a great part consists of what were formerly the lodgings and offices of the priory of St. Germain's. Indeed the refectory actually occupied the space now used as the dining- room. Although the external appearance of this mansion is very irregular, and without any par- ticular characteristic of magnificence, yet (he principal apartments are convenient and spa- cious ; and, as a late tourist observes, " perhaps its simplicity is more correspondent to the sce- nery by which it is surrounded, and which is rather to be called pleasing than picturesque or grand." There are among the paintings in this house several good portraits of the ancestors of the TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 127 the family ; a small cabinet picture, by Rem- brandt, from the apocryphal story of Bel and the Dragon ; and an exceeding fine portrait of an old man, which is curious, as being in the opinion of Sir Joshua Reynolds, the production of two artists of great talents : the head was painted by Quintin Matsys, and the drapery and back ground by Rembrandt. There is also, among the portraits, one of the celebrated John Hampden, the champion of liberty, which is said to be the only original portrait of this dis- tinguished character in the kingdom. Journey from Land's End to St. Austel. Our next journey will be from the Land's End to St. Austel; through Penzance, Marazion, Helstone, and Grampound, a total distance of fifty-six miles. The Land's End is the most westerly pro- montory of England, distant from London about 290 miles. Tnis is the point of land anciently called Bolerium; by the British bards, Penring- huaed, or the promonlory of blood; and by their historians, Penivith, or the promon- tory to the left. The immense rocks of granite which defend this shore are of the grandest character, and appear providentially placed there to oppose the violent encroachments of the sea, this point being more than any other part of the coast exposed to the rage of the ocean. The Cornish traveller will not fail tc remark, that the rocks which are placed on the north and south sides of the county, althcHigh adequate to their office, are niuch inferior in slrengtli to those at the Land's End ; which are composed 128 CORNWALL. composed of granite of the hardest descrip- tion. The magnificence of the scene is finely de- scribed by Mr. Davy, who is a native of Corn- wall, in the following lines on the sea : — " The sun-beams tremble, and the purple light Illumes the dark Bolerium ; seat of storms. High are his granite rocks ; his frowning brow Hangs o'er the smiling ocean. In his caves. Where sleep the haggard spirits of the storm, Wild dreary are the schistose rocks around, Encircled by the waves, where to the breeze The haggard cormorant shrieks ; and far beyond, Where the great ocean mingles with the sky. Are seen the cloud-like islands, grey in mists." In 1797 there was a light-house erected upon one of the rocks called the Long Ships, which are seen at low water, running from the Land's End nearly two miles westward, by Mr. Smith ; who obtained a grant from the Trinity-house for that purpose, and he receives a certain rate, by way of compensation, on all ships that pass the Land's End. There are several remains of works, called hill castles or fortifications, in this district, monuments of singular curiosity, and snpposed to have been formed by the Danes, by some writers; by others attributed to the ancient British, thence called Castle Chum, and Castle an Dinas. •About three miles to the east of Land's End is the famous Loggan Stone, at a place called Treryn Castle, being the site of an ancient build- ing of that name, of which there are no remains now existing. The Loggan Stone is an immense block of granite. TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 129 granite, upon tlie summit of three distinct piles of rocks, one above another, rising from the sea. It is estimated to weigh nearly ninety tons; yet this enormous mass is so balanced upon its supporters, the pile of rocks before-mentioned, that it may be easily logged to and fro, or set in a vibratory motion. The engraving below is a correct representation of this extraordinary stone, as seen upon approaching it from the land. Dr. Maton, after having viewed the Loggan Stone^ which his guide informed him *' was the greatest uwnder in the whole county,'' observes that. 130 CORNWALL, that, ** It does uot seem possible for any humau exertion to have raised it to so great a height. The precipice below us here >vas so horribly steep that we could not help shudderinjj as we climbed, and so deep was the roar of the billows between the chasms and irregularities of the rock, that our expressions of astonishment to each other could scarcely be heard. *' It is supposed that loggau stones were made use of by the Druids in their trials, and contrived to answer the purposes of an ordeal. That at Castle Treryn certainly seems to sup- port the conjecture, for unless touched in one particular p^Jnt it is perfectly immoveable." Castle Freryn is said to ha\e been an ancient British fortress. The situation must have been grand beyond description, and, by nature alone, impregnaule. There is no appearance of art except where the rocks are, in two or three instances, placed regularly one above another in a wall-like form. The foundation of the whole is a vast group of granite rocks, rising to a pro- digious altitude and projecting into the sea. The country about St. Buryens has nothing to recommend it to notice, except what arc called Druidical remains,* and, from being wholly bare of every sort of tree, far from picturesque. The roads are formed of the decomposed gra- nite, and are very good, but uncommonly narrow, something like gravel walks, inclosed between stone walls. * Consisting ofKarnSy or heaps of stones ; circles, crom- lechs, Loggan Stones and Castles. Karns and Cromlechs were certainly intended to point out a place of burial. St. TOrOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 131 St. Buryens was anciently a town of consider- able importance, the seat of a college of pre- bendaries, founded by King Athelstan, after his return from the conquest of the Scilly Islands. The remains of the college were wantonly de- stroyed in Cromwell's time, by one Shrubshall, governor of Pendennis castle. The church was dedicated to St. Buriana, a pious Irish woman. It is a spacious building, containing many curious relics of antiquity. At Boscawen-un, between St. Buryens and Sancred, are some Druidical stones, of which there are nineteen very large, set upright in a circle 25 feet diameter, with one stone in the centre. At Kerris, in the parish of St. Paul, about five miles from Penzance, is an oval iuclosure called RoundagOj composed of stones, some upright, others laid as for walling, but without cement. The largest diameter is about 52 paces from north to south, the shortest 34 from east to west. At the southern extremity stand four rude stone pillars about eight feet high, forming the entrance to the area. At the foot of these four upright stones lie some larger, supposed to have formerly rested on the pillars. At Kern Boscawen, by the sea-side, about five miles from Penzance, is another curious druidical monument, consisting of two large flat stones, one of which rests upon the natural rock, and the other on three large stones, which form a firm and proper support for the weight of the hori^ zontai stone. The top stone is too nicely sup- ported to be the work of nature, and the open- 132 CORNWALL. ing underneath is supposed to have been the seat of some chief priest among the druids, for the performance of religious ceremonies. Upon the western side of Mount's Bay is the small fishing town of Newlin, within a mile and a half of Penzance, and the little village of Mousehole, or Modishoie, rendered notable by antiquaries for having been the residence of old Dolly Pentreath, the last person known to speak the Cornish language. About two miles before we reach Penzance, the great road becomes extremely interesting from the fine views we have of St. Michael's Mount and its beautiful bay. The country too becomes improved in every particular necessary to picturesque beauty, abounding in wood, and instances of superior cultivation. Penzance, in the hundred of Penwitb, 289 miles from London, is tjjus mentioned by Leland, in his Itinerary : — *' Penzantes, about a myle from Moouseholc, standing fast in the shore of Mount Bay, ys Hie westest market towne of all Cornwall, and no socur for botes or shypes, but a forced pere or key. Ther ys but a chapel yn the sayd towne, as ys yn Newly n. For theyr paroche chyrches be more than a myle off." By some writers the name of this town is supposed to signify the ** Saints Head," and this opinion is supported by the circumstance of '* the Baptist's head in a charger'' being the corporation arms ; others conceive it to have originated in its situation, and from thence called Pcnsavai', TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 133 Pensavas, or the Head of the Channel. It is situated on the north side of Mount's Bay, about 10 miles from Land's End. The streets are to- lerably well paved, and the houses in general handsome and convenient buildings. There is a chapel of ease, dedicated to St. Mary, built within the last thirty or forty years, and a mother church at Madern, or Madron, besides several meeting-houses for dissenters. John Buller, Esq. of Morval, endowed a charity school here in 1711. The walks and rides in the neighbourhood are very agreeable. Penzance is remarkable in history for being entered and burnt by the Spaniards, in 1595. Since this time it has gradually increased in po- pulation and extent ; many persons being invited to settle here, on account of the cheapness of provisions, particularly fish (of which there is a great abundance of all sorts,) the mildness of the climate,and the fertility of the neighbouring lands. In all these respects, it is not to be equalled by any other part of Great Britain. It is some- what larger, but not so elegant a town as Truro, The corporation consists of a mayor, recorder, twelve aldermen, and twenty-four common-coun- cil men. The great variety of shipping, ships of war, merchantmen, and fishing-boats, constantly lying in Mount's Bay, forms a very interesting scene. The pilchard fishery is carried on at Penzance upon a very considerable scale, and another source of employment for the poor, is the manu- facture of yarn and coarse woollen cloths. The traveller, when at Penzance, should see Lanoyn- N quoit 134 COENWALL. quoit, Cam Boxaiicen, Laniorna Cove, and the Land's End. 1 he road from Penzance to Marazion is over the sauds, along Mount s Bay. iVIarazioTiy or, as it is generally called, P*farket Jew, is a small town, about eight miles west of Helston, and 286 from London. It is bu'lt partly at the bottom, and partly on the side of a hill, which lises towards the north, sheltering the town from the cold winds. The town contains about 200 houses, and 1000 inhabitants. The parish- church, dedicated to St. liiiaiy, is about tuo miles distant ; there is. however, a chapel of ease in the town, and a lecturer, supported by private i5ub>>cripli being nmch visited byva- letudiuaiians; and, indeed, if it w( re not for the frequent raius which fall iuthispart of thecounty, no spot could be found, either in Italy or the south tf France, possessing a more mih), a more gener 1> p ■ a>mg, or salubrious atmosphere. Frou» Mdiiizioii, at low-Wii!er, there is a cause- way, uot UiUie than a furlong in length, to St. Michael's TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 135 Michael's Mount; a place that well deserves the attention of the curious traveller. At high tides it is completely insulated by the sea ; but at low-water it may be approached, over the cause- way just mentioned, which is formed of sand and rocks, connecting the mount with the shore. The rock itself is composed of hard granite. The rock of which St. Michael's Mount is composed is nearly bare of soil, and extremely steep and craggy. The height from low water- mark to the top of the chaf)el-lower is about 240 feet ; in circumference at the base it measures about three quarters of a mile. In 1471 John de Vu*', Karl of Oxford, forti- fied himself here against Edward IV. and btavely defended the place for some time. During the civil wars in the reign of Charles I. it was re- duced, after considerable resistance, by Colonel Hammond. There was formerly a monastery here, lirst noticed by a charter of Edward the Confessor. William the Conqueror consiituled it a cell to the Abbey of St. Michael deperiento maris in France. In the reign of Henry Vlll. the Mount came into the possession of Humphry Arundell. It belongs at this time to Sir jolm St. Aubyn, Bart. A number of curious tigures, escutcheons, emblems, and cyphers, occur in the different apartments. The Mount gradually diminishes in size from the base, and is terminated in a very curious manner bj the tower of a chapel upon its sum- mit, inakuig a complete pyramid. On the side next Marazion there are a few houses, with a pier and small harbour for shipping. N 2 There 136 CORNWALL. There is a tradition that the Mount was for- merly surrounded by a wood, which was part of the main-land, and its Cornish name Carak- ludg^h or luz, signifying the grey or hoary rock in the icood, gives this tradition some degree of credibility. Leland also remarks that " In the baye betwixt the Mount and Pensans, he found neere the low water marke rootes of trees yn dyvers places." And Borlase relates, in a paper published in the 15th volume of the Philoso- phical Transactions, the discovery of roots and trunks of trees, some of them embedded in the natural soil, covered with sand, and twelve feet below the water. On the right of the road, between Marazion and Helston, near the village of Pengerswick, are the remains of an ancient building, called Pengerswick Castle, consisting of a square tower of three stories, a small one annexed, and some ruins of walls. From the top of the building, to which you ascend by a flight of winding stone steps, the view is very pleasing. The neighbouring farmers make use of the rooms that remain for storing their corn. On one of the pannels of the wain- scot of the room, on the ground floor, is the fol- lowing poetical inscription, under a rude repre- sentation of water dropping from a rock, with the title. Perseverance — ** What thing is harder than a rock ? What softer is than water clear ? Yet will the same, with often drop, The hard rock pierce; which doth appear Even so there's nothing so hard to attayne, But may be had with labour and pain." There TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 137 There is a story that this place belonged, in the time of Henry Vlll. to one Milliton. who having slain a man privately, purchased the place in the name of his son, and immured himself in a secret chamber in the tower. On the left, about live miles from Helstone, is Godolphin Park, an estate belonging to the Duke of Leeds. The mansion-house is a hand- some quadrangular building, embosomed in wood. It is now fallen to decay, and inhabited only by some farmers, tenants of the Duke. The manor of Godolphin, formerly was the property of the Godolphin family, who resided here in the time of William the Conqueror. Sir Francis Godolphin, a descendant of this family, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, employed 900 men daily in the mines in this neighbournood with very great success. The Godolphin estates are now become the property of the Osborne family. One of the highest hills in this part of the county is called Godolphin, anciently spelt Godaiehun, signifying a white eagle. A Roman work, being the entrenchment of a camp, is to be seenat Bogrens, near Godolphin, in the parish of St. Erth, and various articles, such as coins, patera, and pottery, have been found at different times, identifying its Roman origin. About four miles from Helston is 3Un Amher^ a pile of stones, the uppermost of which mea- sures eleven feet in length, six in width, and four in thickness. It is called the Great Rock by Carew, ** advanced upon some others of a meaner N 3 size 138 CORNWALL, size with so equall a counterpoyse that the push of a finger will move it to and fro, but farther to remove it the united forces of many shoulders are over weak." Helston, in the hundred of Kerrier, 274 miles from London, is thus noticed by Leland : — " Heylstonn, alias Hellas, standeth on a hill, a good market-town, having a mayor and privi- leges, wythin the which there is a court for the coynage of tynne, kept tvvys yn the year. Yn the town is both a chapel and a paroch (church) and vestegia castelli, and a ryver runnyng under the same vestegia of the castel, issueth towards the south sea, stopped ther, yn the west part, with S. E. wyndes, casting up sandes, maketh a poole, cawled Loo, of an arrow-shot in breadt, and two myles yn cumpas yn the somer. In the wynter, by reason of fluddes, men beconstrayn- ed to cut the sandy banke between the mouth of the poole and the sea, by the whych gut the sea floweth and ebbeth ynto the poole. Lo Poole is a tw^o mile in length, and betwixt it and the mayn sea is but a barre of sand, and ons yn three or four yeer, what by the wait of the fresch watier and rage of the sea, it bubketli out, and then the fresch and salt water meeting, maketh a wonderful noise. If this barre be always kept open it would be a good haven up to Hailston." Helston is now one of the most respectable towns in Cornwall; it is built in the form of a cross, formins four streets, and is situated on the side of a hill, which slopes gradually to the little river Cober. The country around Helston is TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 139 is picturesque and fertile, the neighbourhood genteel, and the town the residence of several opulent families. In the middle of the principal street is the market-house and town-hall, and upon an emi- nence, on the north side of the town, stands the church, erected within the last 60 years, a handsome building with a lofty tower, forming a fine object from the valley below. Helston has returned members to parliament ever since the 23d Edward I. being one of the five ancient boroughs of Cornwall, but was not incorporated until the 27th Elizabeth, who vested its government in a mayor, four alder- men, and 24 assistants. A charter obtained dur- ing the present reign, in 1774, defined the cor- poration to consist of a mayor, five aldermen, a recorder, and the whole body of freemen. The authority of this charter, however, with respect to the return of representatives, was afterwards contested, and disallowed by the House of Com- mons in favour of the surviving members of the old corporation ; and again confirmed in a case where the return was made by one person only, the last of the old corporation ; since which the charter of 1774 is the only one recognised. The number of voters is about 36, and, according to the public return, there appears to be 313 houses in the borough, and 2,248 inhabitants. We cannot omit noticing what is called " The Furry," at Helston ; the word, supposed by Mr. Polwhele, to be derived from the old Cornish word/er, a fair or jubilee. On the 8th of May, the morning is ushered in by the music of drums and 140 CORNWALL, and kettles, and other accompaniments of a song, a great ppears to have been erected, from the date cut in relief over the western door, in the year 1627. This town was possessed, ai the time of the Doomsday survey, by Robert, Eail of Moreton and Cornwall ; and became a free borough by a charter granted by Richard, brother to Henry o 2 111. 148 CORNWALL. III. dated June 5, 1240. The rents, tolls, and perquisites, of the borough were granted to the townsmen by Edward, Earl of Cornwall, son and successor of Richard, at the re«erved annual rent of 181. The townsmen were again incorporated in the year 1580, by Queen Elizabeth, and the government of the town invested in a mayor, recorder, eight capital burgesses, and fifteen assistants, who, with the other freemen of the borough, were empowered to elect the members of parliament. This charter was surrendered by the corporation in the reign of Charles the Second, with the consent and approbation of the inhabitants; and it was not until after the acces- sion of James the First that a new charter was obtained, by which the Earl of Bath was ap- pointed recorder. The legality of this last char- ter has been since confirmed at a general assize, held at Launceston; and at the same time, the former was declared null and void, having been fully surrendered, and that surrender actually enrolled. By one or other of these charters, or by vir- tue of both, the present corporation, of mayor, burgesses, and recorder, support their rights, and form the municipal government of the town. Leskeard sent members to parliament in the 23rd of Edward I. The corporation and freemen, to the number of about 60, are the electors. The mayor being returning otKcer. In the reign of King James the First, when Carew wrote his Survey of Cornwall, it con- sisted of little else than the ruins of ancient buildings, which sufficiently shewed it had once been TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 149 been a place of consequence. It had a strong castle, and a large building where the ancient dukes of Cornwall kept their court. Since Mr. Carew's Survey, the town has been very much increased, jand has, at present, a population of nearly 2000 inhabitants. The chief business of the town is tanning, which, however, is not carried on to any great extent. The parish of St. Cleer, a few miles north of Leskeard, is worthy the attention of the curious traveller, on account of the many remains of an- tiquity to be found within its precincts, and par- ticularly on account of its handsome church and consecrated well, about a quarter of a mile from the church. This appears to have been in- closed within four walls and covered, with two windows or openings, one on each side, and an entrance under two small circular arches. What seems to have been the front of the building is all that now remains. A stone cross, rudely ornamented at the top, stands very near the well. The other objects of curiosity in this village are, the Hurlers; the Cheese Wring, and " the other Half Stone." The Hurlers formerly consisted of three cir- cles, which were marked out by stones placed on the periphery, the center being in a right line from each other ; but many of the stones are now taken away. The vulgar tradition is, that the stones were once men, but transformed into stones for hurling (a common sport in Cornwall) on the sabbath-day. The Cheese IVring is a pile of rocks placed o 3 one 150 CORNWALL, one upon another to the height of 18 feet ; and from the shape of some of them resembling' a large cheese, the group obtained its name. The stones, of which there are eight in number, towards the top are so mucii larger than those in the middle or nearer the foundation, and pro- jects so far over the middle part, that it has been a matter of wonder how so ill-constructed a pile could, for so many ages, resist the storms it must have sustained in its exposed situation. Some imagine that this enormous pile is the work of art, but the more general opinion is, that it was formed by nature. The other Half Stone seems to be a fragment of a cross erected to commemorate the death of Dungerthy king of Cornwall, who was accidentally drowned, about the year 872. Trevethey Stone, stands on an eminence about one mile and a half north-east of St. Cleer ; from whence may be viewed an extensive tract of country. This monument of antiquity is, by some antiquarians, called a Cromlech, signify- ing, in the Welch language, any flat incumbent stone. The term Trevede (Hevethi) signifies, in the British language, the place of graves. Four miles west of St. Cleer is the small vil- lage of St. Neot's, originally denominated Mo- testor, from Neotus, who was the reputed bro- ther of Alfred the Great, and died in 890. The church is a very handsome structure. According to the Doomsday survey, there was a monastery at this place in the time of Edward the Confessor, by whom founded uncertain, whose inmates are called *' clerks of St. Neot;" but TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 151 but they retained at that time no more of their original possessions than one acre of land, so that the monastery fell to ruin and decay, and its name only has descended to the present age. In the church of St. Neot's, at the east end of the nave, is a stone casket, 18 inches by J4, said to contain so much of the remains of the tutelar saint as were not carried into Hunting- donshire, and upon a wooden tablet inscribed to his honor and memory, are some uncouth rhymes. The windows of this church contain some fine specimens of painicd glass, which though much damaged, are still very beautiful; and, according to Bishop Gibson, "they related to the Jew's traditions, which are exactly deliver- ed ia a Cornish book, in the Bodleian Library Arch. B. 31. and were probably derived ancient- Jy from the Jews themselves, who ** were here in great numbers about the tin works/' One window exhibits the history of the creation, with a label, in gothic letters, to each representation ; another describes the deluge ; a third the legend of St. George; a fourth a series of representa- tions from the legendary history of St. Neot. The others appear to have been embellfshed with figures of the saints. Journey from St. Ives to Stratton. Between Land's End we pursue our tour to- wards St. Ives, and pass over a road adjoining to which " are numerous pits and deserted shafts of mines, which renders a journey over this part of the country in the night extremely dangerous. The moor-stone (granite) lies dis- persed in detached blocks, many of them huge enough 152 CORNWALL. enough for another Stoiie-henge; scarcely a shrub appears to diversify the prospect, and the only living beings that inhabit the mountainous jiarts are the goats, which brows the scanty herbage." — ^ St. Ives is a borough town, situated in the Hundred of Penuith, on the west side of a fine bay ou the Irish Sea, 277 miles from London. St. Ives is a place of great antiquity; deriving its name from lia, a religious woman, who came hither from Ireland about the year 460. It is now a very populous sea-port, containing not less than 3000 inhabitants, very extensively engaged in the pilchard fishery; the corporation consists of a mayor, recorder, twelve capital and twenty- four inferior burgesses, deriving their authority from a charter granted by Charles I. The right of election is possessed by the corporation and all the inhabitants paying scot and lot. Entering St. Ives from Redruth the town has a very respectable and j>leasing appearance: all the houses being handsomely covered with slated roofs, and in general well buill; but on descend- ing into the town, ue found the streets disagreea- bly narrow, dirty, irregular, and ill paved. A great trade is carried on at Hayle, a very small town, situated on the eastern side of the river of the same name, in iron, limestone, Bristol-wares, and Welch coal for the steam-en- gines and smelting-houses. The country imme- diately about Hayle is exceedingly rocky and mountainous. The operation of smelting the ores, and roiling the metal, is brought to great perfection TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 153 perfection at the works erected here: they have, however, a very terrible eft'ect on the constitu- tion of the workmen employed in them. " No- thing," says Dr. Maton, " can be more shocking than the appearance which the workmen in the smelting-houses exhibit. Some of the poor wretches who where lading the liquid metal from the furnaces to the moulds looked more like walking corpses than living beings." The disen- gaged arsenic in the immediate vicinity of the copper-houses, has also a very uncommon effect upon the horses employed here ; which, after two or three years, lose their hoofs. On the western side of Hayle Harbour, about two miles from St. Ives, is Trevethoe, the seat of W. Praed, Esq.; the house and grounds are very beautifully situated. Between Hayle and Redruth are the Cam- bourn copper-mines, situated along the bottom of the north side of a ridge of granite hills, termi- nating abruptly, near the latter town. The dif- ferent mines have been already mentioned in our account of the mineralogy of the county, under the names of Huel Gons, Stray Park, Dolcouth, Cook's Kitchen, and Tin Croft. Cook's Kitchen was su|)posed one of the most productive mines in Cornwall. Between 300 and 400 per- sons were constantly employed in this mine. Sir John St. Aubyn, Bart, has a seat in this neighbourhood called Clowance, in the parish of Crowan, which has been in the possession of tlie family ever since the tin»e of Richard II. It has been considerably improved by the present owner of the estate. The large park, pleasure- grounds. 154 CORN WALL, grounds, and the great abundance of fine trees which shade its walks, have a striking effect in a country so dreary as that in its immediate neigh- bourhood. There are some curious and valua- ble paintings at Clowance, and a collection of rare and clioice prints. Pendarves, the seat of E. W. Stackhouse, Esq. is about three miles from Clowance : a large handsome stone building, erected on an emi- nence commanding extensive views over llie wes- tern part of the county. In a tield near this house is a cromlech, consisting of three upright stones, and another covering them. Upon the left of our road to Redruth, and about 4 miles north west of that town, is Trehiddy PflrA, the seat of Francis BdSsetLorddeDunstan- \ille. The manor houae was built by John Pen* darvis Basset, Esq. a relative of the present pro- prietor, chiefly of Cornish free-stone, and consists of a handsome square dweiliug-house m the cen- tre, and four detached pavilions at the angles. On the summit of the house is a statue of the Farnese Flora, executed in Coade's artificial stone. There is a good collection of paintings at Trehiddy, among which are several by Van- dyke, Sir Godfrey Knelltr, Sir Peter Lely, and Sir Joshua Reynolds. The park and grounds contain in the \\\\o\e about 75^0 acres, of which the lawn and a sheep-walk compose 150, and 130 are woodland. About two miles from Trehiddy is Portreatk or Basset's Cove, where a great deal of business is carried on in the import of coal and limestone, and the export of copper ore. This little port was TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 155 was originally improved by a company under a lease from the late Francis Basset, Esq. at an expence of at least 12,0001. About the year 1781, Lord de Dunstanville became the sole proprietor of all the shares, and after expending upwards of 30001. in extending and repairing the pier, granted a lease of the whole to Messrs. Foxes of Falmouth : these gentlemen have, at a great expcnce, improved the port to its present perfection. Proceeding on our journey towards Redruth, about two miles before we enter this town, we discover Carnhth, supposed by Dr. Borlase to have been the ** grand centre of druidical wor- ship in thiscounty," where are to be found "bold, stupendous, and multifarious druid monuments of every species ; rock basons, circles, stones erect, remains of cromlechs, karns, a grove of oaks, a cave, a religious inclosure, and Vi gorsed- daUy or place of elevation, whence the Druids pronounced their decrees. At the eastern end of Carnbreh Hill are the remains of a castle, apparently erected on a ledge of vast rocks, connected by arches turned over the spaces between them. What remains of this ancient fortress appears to have been the work of different ages : one pirt of it being most probably British, the other of comparatively mo-^ dern construction. The views from Carnbreii Castle are very exr tensive and interesting, comprehending a great portion of the mining country and the Irish Sea. From hence is a pleasing'walk to Redruth. Redraih, 156 CORNWALL. Redruth. The town of Redruth consists of one principal street, of considerable length, situated on an eminence, in the midst of the mining district, surrounded by a bleak and unsheltered country. It is supposed to be the most ancient inhabited spot in the kingdom, and was originally called Dedruith : the discovery, however, of the cop- per mines has been the source of the late pros- perity and increase of the population of the town more than six-fold during the last century. The number of inhabitants is 5903, and the houses 844. The church is a handsome modern building, about a mile from the town, almost at the foot of Carnbreh, consisting of a nave only ; the ceil- ing is flat, supported by pillars. The Gwennap mines are considered as the most valuable in this neighbourhood. These are situated on the east side of Redruth, in a part of the county where the tin and copper lodes are particularly rich. The road from Redruth to St. Agnes is over the most dreary country imaginable, a distance of about six miles. St, Agnes or St. Annes. The small town of St. Agues is situated on the northern coast, in the hundred of Pyder, 267 miles from London, surrounded by tin and cop- per mines. It possesses but little importance as a sea port, the harbour being nearly choaked up with sand, and a quay, formerly erected for the accommodation of shipping, demolished by the violence of the waves. The shore, which is de- 6 fended TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 157 fended by immense rocks of killas, is uncom- monly grand and picturesque. One of these rocks called St. Agnes' Beacon, is very remark- able: it rises pyramidically nearly 600 feet above the level of the water. Boriase particu- larly describes the extraordinary stratafication of this stupendous mountain, which is deserving the attention of the geologist. Mr. Opie, the late celebrated painter, was born in this parish. A circular amphitheatre, with a rampart and fosse surrounding it, is to be seen a few miles east of St. Agnes, called Piran Round ; the area of which is about 130 feet, and is supposed to have been originally designed either for a British court of judicature, according to the Rev. Mr. Whitaker and Mr. Polwheie, or for the exhibition of the Cornish interludes, some of which, written in the Cornish tongue and in manuscript, are preserved at Oxford. St. Columb is a large market and church town, in the Hun- dred of Pyder, 250 miles from London, very pleasantly situated on an eminence, surrounded by some fine grass land. St. Columb is a rec- tory, valued in Liber Regis 531. 6s. 8d. and the living is supposed to be worth nearly 10001. per annum. The parsonage is very respectable in appearance, and pleasantly situated below the town on the east side. The church is a handsome building. The town principally con- sists of one street, and the houses in general are well built. Leland says, ** St. Columb is a big parish P and 158 CORNWALL. aud mean market town, subjoining to tlie lord- ship and patronage of the Liuiliern Arrundels. The house of Lanhern in the adjoining parish of St. Mdwijon, with a larije scope of land uas lately occupied by a few Carmeiile nuns, who came over to this couniry in consequence of the revoluiion in France. A ver> singular mass of rocks are justly en- titled t(> the attention of the curious traveller, irt the village of Roach, about tive miles south from St. Coiumb. Upon the highest part of them are the remains of an hermitage or chapel, partly formed by the natural rocks themselves, and partly by stone-walls, inclosing two rooms one above the other. Padstow, on the river Camel, was originally called Petroc- stow, derived from Petrocus, a British hermit, who resided here in his cell. It is distant trom London 242 miles, incorporated and governed by a mayor and otiier otKcers. Padstow is' a sea-port town, on the northern coast, in the hundred of Pyder, aud the harbour is thought the best upon thenorthcoast,althoiigh it suffers the same inconvenience with the rest, of being much obstructed by the sand, which renders the navigation very ditficult, except in its very chaimel ; w here, however, the water is deep enough for ships of considerable burthen. A handsome stone bridge, of 17 arches, at Wade bridge, is entitled to the traveller's notice. Which crosses the river Camel, was erected, about the year 1485, through the public-spirited exertious of the then Vicar of Eglesheyl, of the 4 liame TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 159 name of Lovehon or Lony bound. Before that period passengers had to cross the river by a ferry and dangerous ford, frequently interrupted by sudden inuadations. Camelfordi in the Hundred of Lesnewth, is a place of great antiquity, and a borouijh-town. It is situated rather unfavourably, in the least pleasing part of Cornwall. It has a mayor, eight burgesses, and 10 freemen, who conjointly elect the represen- tatives of the borough in parliament. Camel- ford is in the parish of Lanlegloss, the church being about a mile distant. Lantegloss is a rec- tory, valued in Liber Regis 341. lis. 2jd. Camel lord is a place of little business, and presents no advantages of situation to the manu- facturer. Bossinei/, commonly called Tintagell, and Trevena, is a borough-town, but in point of appearance must rank as a village of the meanest description. — The country around it is bleak and rugged. There are about 140 houses within the borough; but the number of voters is seldom so great: at this time there are five or six only. Their qua- lifications consist in living in the parish and having land in the borough. The number of inhabitants is 730. The ruins of Tmtagell, or King Arthur's Castle, stand partly on the main land and party on a rock, which is nearly separated from the shore by an immense chasm, over which there was formerly a draw-bridge, which has been since destroyed by the falling of the clitfs on the farther P 2 side. 160 CORNWALL, side, wkich has filled up the space between the two parts of the town. This ancient castle was the birth-place of King x\rthur, and it is conjec- tnred to have been his principal residence. Bossiney is in the Hundred of Lesnewth, 232 miles distant from London. The parish is a vicarage, valued in Liber Regis 81. lis. 2d. We pass over about two miles of a very rocky road, before we reach a small village, in a most romantic situation, called Boscasile, at present a very inconsiderable place, on the northern coast, in the Hundred of Lesnewth, 229 miles from London. The pilchard fishery was commenced here about ten years ago, which has not been so successful as expected. The adventurers, however, have improved the quay, and erected several new buildings. There was formerly a castle here, called Bottereux Castle, of which there are at present no vestiges remaining. Stratton is a very inconsiderable place, situa- ted in a low cold country, which, however, might be much improved by draining. It was, in for- mer times, one of the most flourishing villages HI the county. The church at Kilhampton, four miles to the north of Stratton, is large and handsome, said to have been built by an ancient baron of the Grenville line. It has, among other pieces of antiquity, a fine large font, and a curiously carved pulpit. About two miles north of Stratton is the small port of Bude, from whence immense quantities of sea-sand are daily taken for agricultural pur- poses. NATURAL HISTORY, CURIOSITIES, &C. 101 poses. There is a good inn here, and the place is much visited in the summer as a bathing-place. Having omitted to visit the little town of Porthmear, whilst upon our journey to St. Aus- tel, we beg leave to insert here a description of this very interesting place. On tlie north-west side of St. Austel's Bay is situated Porthmear, or Charlestown, as it is usually called, in honour of Charles Rashleigh, Esq. of St. Austel to whom is to be attributed ifs present importance and increasing prosperity. In the year 1790 this was a very inconsiderable place, with no more than nine inhabitants. The improvements since that period have been rapid beyond example; the liarbour has been render- ed safe and commodious by a pier, an inner bason, and a dry dock ; a considerable pilchard fishery established, and many houses, work- shops, store-houses, and cellars erected. Several hundred acres of the common and waste lauds adjoining the town, have been brought into cul- tivation, and great quantities of lime burnt for manure. The principal article exported from Charlestown is the China-stonty from St. Ste- phen's, already noticed. NATURAL HISTORY, CURIOSITIES, AND RE- MARKABLE PARTICULARS. Having, under the different titles of the Agri- culture, Mineralogy, and Fisheries of the coun- ty, and in the course of our several journies, taken notice of almost everything that could be comprised under the present title, we shall here have but litile to add ; we will not, however, omit that little. P 3 In 16*2 CORNWALL. In this county there are several springs, sup- posed to have medicinal virtues, viz. one at the village of Madern, or Madron, a little to the norlh of Penzance ; another in the parish of Sancred, among the hills, to the west of Pen- zance ; and a third, called the Holy Welly about a mile and a half to the north-west of St. Cuth- bert's church, which is situated in a small sandy bay, on the north coast, not far from St. Co- lumb. There are many chalybeate springs in this county, particularly at Ludgvan, not far from Marazion : the former place was the resi- dence of Dr. Borlase, for the last fifty-two years of his life. Of fossils, the most remarkable in Cornwall are trees of various kinds and sizes, that are found at considerable depths below the surface of the earth. In the year 1740, several pieces of oak, and one entire stock, about ten feet long, without branches, were found about four feet below the surface of a drained marsh, on the banks of the river Hayle, in the Hundred of Penwith. In the year 1750, another oak, about twenty feet long and twelve feet diameter, was found at the depth of thirty feet, by a man who was digging for tin near the Land's End. The branches of this tree were full of leaves, the im- pression of which was left in the bed where it was found, which was the same shelly sand with that of the adjacent beach. Near this tree was found the skeleton of an animal, supposed to be a deer. The skeleton was entire, but the horns were imperfect. In ANTIQUITIES, 16$ In the year 1753, several other pieces of horns, either of the elk or deer, were found in the same place at the depth of twenty feel. Another sort of fossil tree has been discovered in lakes, bogs, and harbours, whole groves to- gether, standing perpendicularly as they grew. We have already mentioned the tradition in Cornwall, that a large tract of ground on the edge of Mount's Bay, was wood enclosing the mount. On the 10th of January, 1757, after the sands had been drawn off the shore by a violent sea, the remains of the wood appeared. Several trees, with their branches and roots en- tire, were discovered, though in a horizontal position. — There were oaks, willows, and ha- zels. The place where these trees were found was 300 yards below full sea-mark, and the water was about twelve feet deep upon them when the tide was in. The Cornish language was a dialect of that which, before the Saxon invasion, was common to all Britain ; it is less guttural, and therefore more pleasing, than the Welch. ANTIQUITIES. In our topographical description we included an account of the several monuments of anti- quity as presented to our notice in the progress of our journies. Many of these consist of single stones, not only uninscribed, but un- hewn ; others composed of two, three, or more stones, arranged sometimes in a straiglit line, and sometimes in a circular one. Stones are also found in heaps, and now and then three or four 164 CORNWALL, four flags or thin stones standing upright, co- vered with a much larger stone, under the seve- ral denominations of castles, druidical circles, karns, or cromlechs, and have an origin too re- mote to be ascertained with any degree of satis- faction. It is, however, beyond a doubt, that they belong to the earliest inhabitants of this part of the island. Of Roman antiquities there have been suf- ficient found to prove their long and peaceable possession of the county. Beyond all that we have spoken of, the ap- pearance of the county itself is the most parti- cularly entitled to the attention of the antiquary, who can meet with no gratilication on this head equal to what may be found in Messrs. Lyson's Magne Britannica, vol. 3. A GENERAL CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE OF CORNV/ALL. It cannot be denied that ** Cornwall is in many respects a higldy-interesting county ; its inhabitants renowned as a brave, loyal, and public-spirited people, shrewd, sensible, and in- telligent. No county has produced more emi- nent characters, either in the polite arts or learned professions. The v.-omen arc amiable, for the most part accomplished, and make ex- cellent wives. If Lancashire has its ivitches, Cornwall has its diamonds. From the peer to the peasant tht^re is a mildness and complacency of tefnj)€r, an urbanity and courteousness of manners, a noble frankness and liberality of heart, extremely conciliating to the stranger, and, what is jieculrar to tiie Cornish, morning, uouu. GENERAL CHARACTER. 165 Doon, or night, they greet the traveller with an appropriate gracious salutation. Add to this, that even in the niglit, the peasantry make no hesitation in rising from their beds to direct or assist the bewildered traveller. — Such persons surely cannot deserve the appellation of barha- rians ; though some practices on that coast towards shipwrecked vessels, not heard of during the present reign, certainly tended to fix a stigma on the many, that only belonged to a few. The general civilization of the people of Cornwall is no novel character of them, but was attributed, by Diodorus Siculus, in the time of Augustus Caesar, to that frequent intercourse with merchants of foreign countries, which the traffic for their tin could not but occasion. Of the better sort of people Queen Elizabeth used also to say, "That the Cornish gentlemen were all born courtiers with a becoming confidence.'* Favoured at present by the general increase of useful knowledge, the generality must infallibly be superior to their predecessors. Among the many instances of this advancement of science, one, not the least, is a Geological Society which was instituted at Penzance, in the month of February, 1814, on the suggestion of John Ayrton Paris, M.D. of that town, Davies Giddy, Esq. M. P. is president, and Lord de Dunston- ville, patron. His Royal Highness the Prince Regent having taken the society under his pro- tection, it is now denominated the Royal Geo- logical Society. The county of Cornwall is particularly favourable to the objects of this institution. 166 CORNWALL. iiistituliou. Nor are the lower orders iu this distant part of the islnncl by any means neg- lected. There is a schoolat Venjan, eleven miles from Truro, which has no benefaction from the society for promoting Christian know- ledge ; but is connected with, and assisted by, the central school at Truro, founded on Dr. BelTs system, which can never be too highly estimated. There are two Lancastrian schools at Falmouth. A school-house has lately been built at the expence of Mr. Trist, the vicar. The interest of 2001. for the purchase of bocks was given by the late Rev. Richard Thomas and John Kempe, Esq. These books have been procured from the Society for promoting Christ- ian Knowledge. The number of scholars is upwards of eigiity. For this and other informa- tion we are indebted to the indefatigable inves- tigations of Messrs. Lysons. The valuable agricultural improvements, in- corporated With this description of the county of Cornwall, we have taken from The General "View of the Agriculture of the County of Corn- wall, &c. &c. ; by G. B. Worgan, a^^isted by the Rev. Robert Walker, the Rev. Jeremiah Trist, and Charles Vinicombe Penrose, Esq. END OF SURVEY OF CORNWALL. B\RH4RDAND FARJ.KY, Skininr Utrtel, Lunuon. INDEX, INDEX. Pag:?. Agriculturb , 33 AmphitUeatre, circular one 157 Anthony House 119 Antiquitie>i of Cornwall .. \6i Arclideact)n of Cornwall, court of 9S Bak. u: Bakewell Mr. on cattle.. 4* Bcroiiochouse lol Bodmin 97 Boicastle 160 Bossiney, or Tintagel 159 ■ r ruins of, or King Arthur's Castle .... ib. Bridges 51 Bude, port of IfiO Callington Mi Cambouru copper mines . . is? Catiielford 159 Capitalists, bints to the .. 86 Carclew 92 Carnbreeh, its origin.. .,.. 155 Cattle,emineut breeders of 4T Ch.impt rnoune John 125 Cheese wring the 149 China-stone described 75 Churchcf St Glurias 91 • of St. Mary 9* of Colstock 114 of St. Germain's 1^1 ofGrampoHud 143 Clays, vjirieties of a4 Clowance, its antiquity .. 15J Coir.ages 67 Commerce and Manufac- tures 55 Copper mines 69 (;ornisU diamonds 37 Cornvpal), Inspection Table for . , 4 itinerary of roads in 6 General Descrip» tion of 25 Roundariesof ib. -Origin of the name 36 r Civil and Ecclesi- astical Division of 87 Topographical Description of ib. Natural History, Curiosities, &c. of 161 General Charac- ter of tlie people ef 164 Cotchele,orCultayle-house 115 Cottages, Carriages, .Sic . , 44 Curiosities, various 150 DisTANCKsfromtowntotown 3 Enclosures 37 England, division of into counties x. Law division of., xii. Fairs, a List of , IT Falmouth S8 Packets at 90 Farm-houses and Offices . . 4* Fences 3S Festival, a, at Bodmin .... 98 Fislieiics 79 F'jote. birth-place of 96 Fossils, varielifs of 37 Fowey Toavii, 102, Harbour 105 Fruit-trees 42 Fuel, scarcity of 63 Furnaces, reverberating.. 9? Furry the, a fete 139 GoDOLPHiN Park yij Geological Society, the, at Penzance 165 Grainponud, Borough of .. 145 Great Britain, Geographi- cal Description of vii. — Origin of the Name of viii, Climate ,Soil, i^c. of ix. Grotto, eleganl 107 Gwennap, Mines of 156 Harewood House 114 Harrowing 40 Hayle, Trade of 153 Heligan 14* Helstone US Herhuid Mine, the 7.J Hill, Casties, or Fortifica- Jious ,, 128 Hills, highest in.Cornwall 30 Hoeing 40 Horse-, hardy and active. . 49 Huers, the people called. . I06 Hurlers. the 149 Imp KMKNTs of husbandry., 45 Iron 74 Sulphuret of ..., ib. Islands, British xi Ki'LLAs, a stone , 36 Ky nance Cove 142 Kern, Boscawen 131 Lak-cs or Pools S3 Land, manner in whicU possessed 65 Land's End, the l^T INDEX. 1/anhern, the house at 13S Lanwadnock Iti Launceston 107 Lead Mines 71 Leskeard 147 Lestwithiel 99 Lighthouse erected 1-2S Limestoae 79 Jjiterary Society and Coun- ty Library 93 Lizard Point, the 141 lioggan Stone, the famous 1-9 Looe, east and west .. 146, 147 island 146 Manlre a Marazion, or Market Jew 133 Megavissy 144 Menabilly 106 Men Amber 137 Mines and raineralb 61 -working of 63 Charters relative to 66 Mining districts, dreary scenery in 33 Minerals, specimens of British 107 Moor-stone, or Granite . . 36 Mousehole, a little village 132 Mules, number employed 51 Mullion, Church-town 141 Mural monument, curious 114 ^Newport, borough of 11-2 ■Ox, its high estiraartion . . 4S Papstow, account of 15S Pilchards, where taken . . 79 how cured .... SO Plants, submarine.. Sj Ploughing aud fallowing .. 39 Pendarves,a cromlech near 134 Pendennis Castle S9 Pengerswick Castle 136 Penrose and Looe pool 111 Penrvn SO Pentelly Cabtle 115 Pentreeth Dolly 132 Penzance 13-2 Port Elliot 126 Porthmear, orCharlestowii 161 Portreath,or Basset's Cove 134 Potatoes 4-2 Probus, a village 143 Proyisions 52 Quartz, beautiful specimens 79 Keaping and shocking .... 41 Redruth 156 ttttslormel Castle and Park 101 Page Rivers in Cornwall 30 Roads 53 Rocks, a mass of \b-Z Roundago, oval enclosure 131 Sands, varieties and use of 84 Saltash, borough of 117 Schools, new 166 XI Scotland, division of Serpentine stone 76 Sheep, true Cornish breed 49 Mongrel flocks of . . 50 Slate quarries S6 Smelting houses, shocking appearances in 153 Soap-earth, or Steatites .. 77 Sowing 41 Springs of Madern aud the Holy Well 163 Springs, medicinal 162 St. Agnes, or St. Aunes 157 St. Austel 145 , journey to 127 St. Buryens 131 St.C.«;omb 137 Sti atite, veins of 35 St. Germains, borough of 120 St. Ives, journey from, to Stratton 151 St. Keynes Well 149 St. Michael, or Mitchell .. 96 St. Michael's Mount 135 St. Neots, account of 131 Stones, varieties of 35, 75 Stratton, 151 Tamarisk, the 39 Tilley, Mr. an atheist 116 Tin, coinage of 95 Mines, considerable 67 Tithes, compounding for 61 Tolman, the, a massy rock 142 Towans, or sand hillocks 50 Tregony, or t!ie Roman Cenio )4S Trehiddy 164 Treryn Castle 129 Trematon, Castle of 118 Trevethoe 133 Trevetliey Stone 15o Trevilhan 144 Trewardreth 102 Truro 92 Wade Bridge 168 Wales, order of the coun. ties in xi Weights and Measures .. 63 WoolFair, a ......n...» « TOPOGRAPHICAL AND STATISTICAL DESCRIPTION or THE :ouN TY OF DEVON Containing an Account of its Situation, Extent, Towns, Roads, Rivers, Lakes, Mines, Minerals, Fisheries, Manufactures, Trade, Commerce, Agriculture, Fairs, Markets, Curiosities, Antiquities, ' Natural History, Civil and EcclesiasticalJiirisdictions, &c. To which is prefixed, A COPIOUS TRAVELLING GUIDE; Exhibiting the Direct and Principal Cross Roads, Inns, and Dis- tances of Stages, and Noblemen's and Gentlemen's Seats ; WHICH FORM A COMPLETE COUNTY ITINERARY: WITH A LIST OF THE FAIRS, AND AN INDEX TABLE, Shewing, at one View, the Distances of all the Towns fronv London, and of Towns from each other. BY G. A. COOKE, ESQ. Illustrated with a Map of the Coimft/. THIRD EDITION. JLonfton: Printed, by Assignment from the Executors of the late C. Cooke, FOR SHERWOOD, NEELY, AND JONES, PATERNOSTER-ROW; AND SOLD BY ALL BOOKSELLERS. IJ. M'Mi)]an. rriiiter, Bow-Stiect, CoveDUGarden. AN INDEX TABLE OP THE DISTANCES FROM TOWN TO TOWN, Jn tlje Counts of Debom To find the Distance from Axminster to Totness, see Axminster on the top and Totness on the side ; carry your sight to the column where both meet, which gives the Distance. fi 11 I- « o = 2 CO(N S S~ O) C. O ' ) O CO o ao o ■».«. C» T}< < I c-» as f- oc r-. Tt CO ^ o c; alii 'SS CO ffi « >c CO e) o o) rt 00 c^ — -^ r? CO C* « CO f^ c^ >-< C-: c « xo T (N f^ r- 0^ M ^£3PS=:^ -y 0> (N fO L'5 ^ ' §s O". « O X CO X i."5 X CO X -"J" ( M — T3< « < O t^ CO iQ X CO C ■CO in n a O O X t^ (N C >C p-i — CO iC < irOirt O >^ H 8 W H c^ O H 2 H O a? ;z; iz: <5 « fc X O ,^ rt cs ^ o n -t; rt a; •- iS' -.^ > Ph > "^ o t» rt ■v i-i t» CO ^ r-l « ^ « S p 1^ £ £ "-3 5 rs fc (« c« U E-* H "' o I!" "o .« O cc -3 3 IB a _ o es ' DEVONSHIRE Cross the Yealmt 51 river. Sequers-bridge ♦ • Cross the Erme river. MODBURY Brownson On R. a T. R. to Dartmouth. Luckbridge • • • • C7VSS the Aven river, Ingleburn • • A little beyond on R. a T. K. to Kingsbridge. Tot NESS • • On L. a T. R. to Ashburton. Cross the Dart river. Bow Two Mile Oak •• Newton Bushel On L. T. Rs. to Ashburton and Chudleigh. Cross the Teign river. Sandy-gate • • • • Haldon-hiU H 5i n Kenford 13 19 241 27 37i 44 46 esq. R.; and a little fur- ther, Purslinch, Rev. J. Yonge. rnn : Exeter Inn. Trainey — Andrczvs, esq, R. Berry PomeroycastlCy Duke of Somerset, R. Dartingion, Mrs. Champer noune. Ford Ayshford, — Wise, esq. — Inns : Globe, Hotel, Sun. Lyndridge, Rev. John Tem- plar, R. ; and Ugbrook, Lord Clifford, L. Mamhead, Earl of Lisburne, Castle Lawrence, built in honour of General Law- rence; and Oxton'house, Rev. J. Szveete. PoTvderham - casiie, George ^2 Alpingioii On L. a T. R. to Chudleigh ; on R. to Star-cross. Exeter ITINERARY OF THE 48 Clucke,csg. ; on L. Haldon- /louscj Lady Eliz. Palk. 50 [nns: Hotelj New London Inn, Old London Inn^ Half-Moon. NEWTON ABBOTS TO MODBURY, THROUGH DARTMOUTH AND MORLEIGU. Newton Abbots to Compton-ahhey, — Bishop, esq. Berry Fomeroy-casilej Duke of Somerset, L, Abbots Kerswell 2 2 On R. a T. R. to Totness. Cornpton 3 5 Marldon 1 6 A mile farther on R. a R. to Totness; on L. to Faington. Gampton 5 11 On L. a R. to Brixham. Kingsweare • • • • 4 15 Cross (he Ferry to Dartmouth • • • • 1 15- Townstall Fzvo miles and a half beyond on L. a T. R. to Kings- bridge. Halwell 6| 22 Morleicrh 1 23 On R. a T. R. to Totness ; on L. to Kingfibridge. Walton-court, H. Studdy, esq. J and Greenway, J. M. Elton, esq. R. ; on L. Lup' ton'house, — Fuller, esq, Kitterey-court, J. L. Fownes; on L. Nethway, J. F, Lut- trcll, esq. Inn: Castle. Mount Galpin, A. H, Holds- worth, esq. R. Norton-house, Mrs. Bond, R, Mount Boon, J. H. Searle, esq. R. Oldstone, unoccupied. Near at Halwell, Stanbo* rough'house,Col. Edmonds, Li. ROADS IN DEVC )KbHIJiE Gerah-bridge* • • • H 251 Cross the river Aven. Near Brownson, on R. a T. R. to Totness. Brownson H 27i MODBURY 3 30J Inn: Exeter 23 Inn, HATHERLEIGH TO LYME REGIS, THROUGH CREDITON AND EXETER. Hatherleigh to Jacobstow ■ C7'0ss the Oak merit river. Exborn ■ Samp ford Courte- nay On R. a R. to Oakhampton. North Tawton • • 21 Bow 4 Colebrook 31 Crediton 4 On L. r. R, to Chumleigh and Ti- verton. Newton St. Gyres Cross the river Exe, Cowley-bridge • • 2| Exeter 2 Heavitree • • • • OnL.aT.R. tc^ Honiton Clyst. Bishop's Clyst • St. Mary*s Clyst [l^ 9 13 16| 23| 26 28 29i 3U 321 Pascoe, C. Hufnli/Uy esq. R. Combe, J. Sillifant^ esq. R. Inns: Angel, Ship, White Hart. Newton St, Ci/res House, J. Quick, esq.; Cleave- house. Rev. I. it. Cleave, R. Pi/nes, Sir H. Stafford North- cote, hart.Jj. Cowley-place,AdmiralPraed. Inns: Hotel, New London Inn, Old London Inn, Half-Moon. 24 ITINEHAKY OF THE Farringdon Cross White Cross • • • • Tipton Newton Popple- ford Cross the Otter river. Sidford Colyford Cross the Axe river. Enter shire. Lyme Regis Dorset- 2>Z\\Farringdon-hous€,J, B. Choi' I zcichf esq. 40| 49| 561 Three Inns; Golden L Cups. HARTLAND TO WELLINGTON, THROUGH BIDEFOllD, BARNSTAPLE, SOUTH MOLTON, AND TIVERTON. Hartland to Harton BiDEFORD •• ' On R. a T. R. to Torrington. East Leigh • • Haraacot • • On R. a T. R. to Torrington. Cross the river Taw. BaRNSTAPLE'." On L. Rs. to II fracomh and Comb Martin. Newport • • OnR.aT,R,to Chumleigh. lU 13^ 16 Hn{ H 22 23 The Abbey, Mrs. Orchard. Clovelly-court , Sir James HamlynWilliams, bart. L. Daddon, L. W. Buck, esq. L. e^ Inn : Pack Horse. 1. Tapley, unoccupied. Tawstock, Sir Bourchier Wrey, bart. R. Inns : Exeter Inn, Golden . Lion, Union Rooms, and - HoteU nOADS IN DEVOKSHIRE. 25 Landkey H24ii Svvimbridge < • • • 2i 261! Filleigh H 30 Castle-hilly Earl Fortescue. South Alia n 5\{ On R. a T. R. to lorrington. South Molton 2 331 [nn : George. On H. a T. R. to Chumleig/i ; and 2 miles farther, on L. to Dulverton. ]\,ackenford • • . . 101 431 Caverlejgh H 491 Tiverton n 52 Tiverton-castle, LadyCarcw, On L. a T. R. to L. — Inns : Angel, Three Bampton; onR.to Tumi. , Exeter and Col- lumpton. Halberton 3 55 Bridwell - house, R. H. Sampford Peverel 2 57 Clarke, esq. R. Beyond^ on R. a T. R. to Collump- ton. South Appledore 2| 59i Inn: White Bull. Maiden Down • • Bluet's Cross.*" 1 eof Enter Somerset- shire. Rockwell-green 21 631 Wellington •• 1 641 Inns: Squirrel, and White Hart. BARNSTAPLE TO PLYMOUTH, THROUGH TORRINGTON, UATHERLEIOH, OAKHAMPTON, AND TAVISTOCK. Barnstaple to Inns : Exeter Inn, Golden Cross the river Lion, Union Rooms, and Taw, HoteL Roundshill* . •• •• 3 3 St. John's Chapel 1 4 26 NewtDii Tracy • • Alvei discott • • • • TORRINGTOK- • • • On R. a T. R. to Bide ford; onL.to South Molt on. Cross the Tor- ridge river. Little Torrington Petrockstow . • Hatiierleigh On R. a R. to Holszcorthj/; on L to Credit on. Five Oaks Oak HAMPTON •• Cross the Oak- nient river. On L. T. Rs. to Crediton and Exe- ter; and a mile farther on R. to Launceston. fSourton Down ton • • • • On L. a T. R. to Horra-bridge. Lidford Cross the river Lid. Brent Tor, T. G. Tavistock .... OnR.aT.R.to Launceston. On L. to More- ton Hampstead. Cross the Tavy ITINERARY 01 THE 6 7 111 H H 36 37 40| 441 Winscot, T. M. Stevens, esq. R. Heanton-court , Mrs. Tanner. Inns: White Hart, White Horse. Oaklands, A. Saville, esq. R. Inns : Bedford Inn, London Inn. Tavistock'-house,T)uke of Bed- ford. ROADS IN DEVONSIIIRt. 27 Whitechurch-... ^ 46 Hon a-bridge • . • • lioborouo.!) Inn • • 5 51 New Inn 2 53 Nackershole,T.G. i 53| A little beyond 071 H. a T. R. to Ply7noulh Dock. Plymouth ..•• 3 561 Tnns: GiobSj King's Arms, Prince George. ILFRACOMB TO EXMOUTH, THROUGH BARNSTAPLE, CHUMLEIGH, CREDITON, AND EXETER. Ilfracomb to Inn : Britannia. Burland 5 5 Marvvood H 71 Marwood-hill, Rev.— Mules, R.; Ley-house, GeorgeLey, esq. R. Prexford k 8 Upcott, Mrs. Harding, R.; Rawleigh, unoccupied, L. Pilton 2 10 Heanton-court, Mrs. Tanner, R.; Pilton-cottage, unoc- On L. a R. to J.V^ Comb Martin ; on cupied, L. U. to BaggT/Point. Barnstaple* • •• 1 u Tawstock, Sir Bourch. Wrey, Cross the Taw bart. R. river. New Bridge • • • • 4 15 Atherington . ■ • . 4 19 OnR.aT.R.to Torrington ; on L. to South Molton. High Bickington 2 21 Burrington.^.... 3 24 New-place, J. Tanner, esq. L. Chumleigh • • • • 3 27 Colleton , J. D. Ashworth, esq. Crosi the Little R. Dart river. nn : King*s Arms. Chawley o 29 New Inn k 311 D2 28 On R. a JL to Bow. Morchard Bishops Oldburrow New Buildings • • ITINERARY OF THE Crediton-' • • OnL.aT.R.to Tiverton J onR. to Bow» Newton St. Cyres Covvley-b ridge Cross the Exc river. On L. a T. R. to Thorzceton. Thorweton • • • • Exeter On R. r. Rs to Oakhampton, Moreton Hamp- stead, Chudkigh, and Nezcton Ab- bots; on L. to Ho- mfon Clyst. TOPSHAM •••• 21 Exton H 33i 34X 37 41 i4 461 48i 52 54 Youlstonf Sir Arthur Chi-! Chester, bart. L. Creedy, Sir J. Davie, bart. L. Downs, J. W. Buller, esq.lj. Cteave-house, Rev. J. K. Cleave; Newton St. Cyres- house, J. Quick, esq. Pynes, Sir H. Stafford North- cote, bart. L. Cow ley-p lace,Admira I Praed. Duryard'lodge, C. Cross, esq. JL. Inns: Hotel, New London Inn, Old London Inn, Half'Mnon. Radford, H. J. Harris, esq. Inns: Globe, Salutation. Retreat, Mrs. Hare. Wear, Lady Duckworth, L. Mount Ebford, T. H. Lee, esq. L. Higher Nutwell, T. Heath- field, esq. L. Nu twell-court, SirT. T. F. E. Drake, hart, R. ROADS IN DEVONSHIRE. Lympstone Exmouth 4| 53| 6U 29 Powderham - castle^ George Clacke,esg.; MissParrnin- ter, L. ; Courtland, Sir Walter Roberts, hart. L. Enns: Globe, London Inn. TAVISTOCK TO EXETER, THROUGH MORETON HAMPSTEAD. Tavistock to Two miles he- vond on L. a T. R. to Oakhampton, and to Plymouth. Moortown Merriville-bridge Dart river New House • • • Entrance of Dartmoor Forest Wormhill MoRETON ^ Hampstead • . 5 Crew Longdovvn End Pocomb ExETEtt 3 3 2 5 3 8 H 14| 3 in 1 18| 3 21| r 28^ 1 29f ^ 31i 2f 33| Inns ; Bedford Inn, don Inn. Tavistock'house, Duke Bedford. Lou- of Inn : White Hart. Perridge, J. Williams, esq. R. Inns: Hotel, Nezo London Inn, Old London Inn, Half-Moon. BIDEFORD TO HONITON, THROUGH CHUMLEIGH, TIVERTON, AND COLLUMPTON. Bideford to Cross the Tor- ridge-river. Hunshaw On R. a. T. R. to Torrington ; on L. to Barnstaple. Dipford On L. a T. JR^I to Barnstaple. 41 101 Inn: Pack Horse. Ebberty-housCj H, Hole, esq, R. DS 50 Burrington • • • . Chumleigh • • • • Cross the Taw- river. Chawleigh Thelbridge • • • • ITINERARY OF THE 3 '2 5 Templeton . • . • 3 Calverleigh ••••;2 TlVEKTON COLLUMPTON C7'oss the river Culn. Awliscombe • • • • On R.aT.R to Exeter. river. Honiton 5| 81 131 161 181 231 261 281 321 38 461 [nn: King's Arms. [nns: Angel, Three Tuns. Tiverton-castle, Lady Ca- rew, L. Zephyr s-lodgey P. Blundell, esq. Colly Priest, unoccupied. Hillersdozcn. Inns : Half -Moon, White Hart. Strauberry-hill, Mrs. L, Walroncl, L. Grange, Wm. Drezce,esg.l,. Hembury Fort'hoiise, Admi- ral R. Graves, R. Wolford'lodge, Mrs. Simcoe, Ivedon, Phil. Gidney,€sq.'L. Ashfield, Miss Head, L. Eggland, Miss Elliott, L. Westo7i - cottage, Samuel Stevens, esq. R. Cross the Otter Traceyhouse, Harry Baines Lott, esq. L. 48 1 Inns: Dolphin, Golden Lion, Angel, Black Lion. TIVERTON TO EXETER, THROUGH SILVERTON. Tiverton to Butterleigh or Bickley ••• Inns: Three Tuns, Angel. Colly Priest, unoccupied, R. ROADS IN DEVONSHIRE. 31 Silverton • Oji R. a T. R. to Cadleigh. Rew Stoke Cannon • • Cross the river Exe. Exeter H H 6i 13i Sir Thomas Dyhe Ackland, hart. L. Stoke-hilly J. Sanders, esq. Inns: Hotel, New London Inn, Old London Inn, Half-Moon. DULVERTON TO TORRINGTON, THROUGH SOUTH MOLTON. DULVERTON to Bounds cf this county • • • • Durleyford •• Bush-bridge • • On L. a T. R. to Tiverton. Cross the Mole- river. South Molton A mile beyond, on R. a T. R. to Barnstaple ; on L. to Chittlehampton On R. a R. to Barnstaple ; on L to Chumleigh. Cross the Taw river. Atherington • On R. a T. R. to Barnstaple; on L. to Chumleigh. TORRINGTON • n 3 6 13 181 21| 28i Inn; George. Hudscot, Lord Rolle, L. The Globe. 32 ITINERARY OF THE SOUTH MOLTON TO EXETER, THROUGH CREDITON. South Molton to Inn: George. East Worlington 9 Thelbridge .... H 101 Black Dog Inn . . '2 m Sandford 5 17| __ .»« Youlstony Sir Arthur Chi- On R. a T. R. chester, hurt. L.; Creedy, to Ckumleigh. Sir J. Davie, hart. R. Crediton H 191 Inns: Ansel, Ship, White On R. a T. R. Hart. toHatherleigh; on Downs,!. W. Bailer, esq. L. L. to Tiverton. Newton St. Gyres 3 22| Cowley-bridge « • n 25 Pynes,Sir H.Stafford North- Cross the Exe cote, hart. L. river. — — — Durt/ard-lodge, C. Cross, Exeter 2 27 esq. L. TAUNTON TO EXMOUTH, THROUGH KONITON AND OTTERY ST. MARY. Taunton to Trull Blagdon Enter this county. Churchingtord • Upottery . . . . ■ Cross the Otte river. Rawridge Haynesyard • . • Monkton, Church HONITON 2 o 3 5 4.i 9^ 3 121 1 13 2 15 1 16 2 18 Upotteryhouse, Lord Sid- mouth. Woodbine-hill, Miss Graves, R. Inns : Dolphin, Golden Lion, ROADS IN DEVONSHIRE. On L. a T. R to Chard; on R. to Collumpton. Along the Exe- ter 7'oad to near Fenny-bridges • • Forward to Ex- eter ; onlu. to Alphington — - OtterySt.Mary fen Ottery • • • • On L. a T. R to Harpford. Newton Popple- ford On L. a T.R to Lyme Regis ; on R. to Exeter. Colyton Rawleigh East Budleigh Knole Exmouth 3| 21 27 '29 31 32f 36 Feniton-courtf G. B. North- cotCf esq.; beyond which is Corscomhe-house, H, Wrightj esq. R. Bicton-lodge, Lord Rolle. Marpool, W. J. Hull, esq, R. ; beyond which is Court- land, Sir Walter Roberts, bart. Inns : London Inn^ 4* Globe, END OF ITINERAliy, ( 34 ) FAIRS IN DEVONSHIRE. Alphington. — Wednesday after June 20, Wednes- day in tlie first full week after Michaelmas, horses. Ashburton. — First Thurs- day in March, first Thursday in June, Au- gust 10, November 11, cattle of all sorts. Ashwater. — First Tuesday in May, and first Mon- day after August 1. Axminster. — April 25, Wednesday after June 26, Wednesday after September 20, cattle. Bumpton. — Wednesday before March 25, Whit- suntide -Tuesday, last Thursday in October, last Wednesday in No- vember, cattle. Barnstaple. — Friday be- fore April 21, Septem- ber 19, second Friday in December. Bideford. — February 14, July 18, November 13. Bishop's Nympton. — April 14, October 20. BffVei/ Tract/. — Easter- Monday, Holy Thurs- day, first Thursday in Jnly, first Thursday in November, wool. Bozo. — Holy Thursday, November 22, cattle.* Bre7it.— M:\y 13, October 10, cattle! Bridestow. — Second Wed- nesday in June, first Wednesday in October. Broadc list. — Msiy 8, cat- tle. Broad hemburi/. — Novem- ber 30, cattle. Broadworthy, — Septem- ber 9, cattle. Buckfastleigh. — June 29, August 24, sheep, cat- tle. Buckla7id.-^\N\\\\:. Tues- day,November 2, cattle. Chatvlej/.-^ May 6, De- cember 11, cattle. C hag ford. — Last Thurs- day in March, last Thursday in September, last Thursday in Octo- ber, cattle. Chumleigh. — August 1, cattle. Chudleigh. — Easter Mon- day, Tuesday and Wed- nesday, St. Barnabas, St. Martin, cattle. Churchingford. — January 25, last Friday in March, last Friday in April, bullocks. Collumpton. — First Wed- nesday in May, first LIST or PAIRS, 35 Wednesday in Novem- ber, cattle. Colt/ ford. — March 1, cat- tle. Colt/ton. Wednesday, May 1, November 30. Crediton. — May 11, Au- gust 21, September 21, cattle. Culmstock.— May 22, cat- tle. Dawlisk. — Easter Mon- day. Denhury. — September 8, cheese and soap. Dolton. — Wednesday be- fore March 2;3, Thurs- day before Octoher 1, or on that day, if Timrsday, cattle. Drewsteignton. First Tuesday after Candle- mas, Trinity Tuesday. Ermington. — February 2, June 2.3, cattle. Exeter. — Ash- Wednes- day, Whit. Monday, August 1, December 6, cattle and horses. Exbourn. — Third Mon- day in April, callle and pedlary. Exminster. — First Thurs- day in May. Exmouth. — April 26, Oc- tober 28. Hartland. — Easter- Wed- nesday, September 25, cattle. Hatherleigh, — May 21, June 22, September 7, November 9, cattle. High Bickinglon. — May 3, December 21, cattle. Holsworthy. — April 27, July 10, October 2, cattle. Honiton. — Wednesday af- ter July 19, cattle. High Budleigh. — Good- Friday, cattle. Kilmington.—First Wed- nesday in September, cattle. Kingsbridge. July 20, cloth and shoes. List 071. — February 2, Ho- ly Thursday, Oct. 28, cattle. Membury. August lO, cattle, Modburi/.^May4, cattle, cloth, and shoes. Morbath. — Monday after August 21. Moreton Hampstead. Saturday before Whit. Sunday, third Thurs- day in July, lastThurs- , dayinNovember,cattle. NezctoH Abbot. — June 24, first VVednesday in September, 6th No- vember when on a Wednesday, or first Wednesday after that day, cattle, cheese, and woollen cloth. Newton St. Cyres. — Mon- day, June 23. 36 LIST OF FAIRS. Kewt07i Poppleford. First Wednesday after October 18. ^orth Molton. — Tuesday after May 11, Novem- ber 12, cattle. Northtazi'ton. Third Tuesday in April, Oc- tober 3, December 18. North Bovey. — Monday in the next week after Midsmiimer-day. AV^on.— March 'lO, Oc- tober 10, cattle. Oakhampton. Second Tuesday after March 11, May 14, first Wed- nesday after July 6, August 5, tirst Tuesday after September 11, first Wednesday after October 11. Great market, Saturday be- fore Christmas, cattle. Otterton. — Easter- Wed- nesday, first Wednes- day after October 11, cattle. Ottery. — Tuesday bevveen Palm-Sunday, Whit. Tuesday, August 15, cattle. Plymouth. — February 5, October 3, cattle and woollen cloth. Plympton. — February 25, April 5, August 12, Oc- tober 28, cattle and woollen cloth. Samp, PevereL Last Monday in April, Au- gust 29, cattle. Seaton. — March 1, cattle. Sheepzcash. — April 10, August 12, October 10, cattle. Sidmouth. — Easter Tues- day, third Monday in September, cattle. Silverton, — iMidsummer- day, March 11, cattle. South Molten. — Saturday after February 13, Sa- turday beft)re May 1, Wednesday before June 22, Wednesday after August 26, Saturday before October 11, Sa- turday before Decem- ber 12, cattle. Tamerton. — July 26, cat- tle. Tavistock. — January 17, May 6, September 9, October 10, December 11, cattle. Tedburn. — First INIonday before Michaelmas-day. Teignmouth. — Third Tues- day in January, last Thursday in February, September 29, woollen cloth. ThorvertoTh — Monday af- ter July 18, cattle and pedlary. Thorncomh. — EasterTues- day, cattle. Tiverton. — Second Tues- day after Trinity Sun- BANKING diiy, ScpU'inber 29, cattle, Tu/rington. May 4, July 5, Oct. 10, cattle. Totuess. ~— Eabter-Tues- day, May 12, July 25, October' 2-i, cattle, heep, and horses. ?. — Wednesday before Good-Friday, June 29, second Wed- nesday in September, HOUSES. catilo and 37 woollen cloth. Underzoood — Julv 5, cat- tle., Up-Ottery.— March 17, October 24, cattle, sheep, and toys. Whimpte. — Tdonday be- fore Michaelmas, cattle. Witheridge. — Wednesday before April 16, June 24, cattle. BANKING HOUSES. Name and Place. Barnstaple Bank Do. North Devon Bank Bideford Bank Bideford Com- mercial Bank Bideford Com- mercial Bank Brixham Bank Collumpton Bank Dartmouth Bank Dartmouth Gene- ral Bank Exeter Bank Do. City Bank Do. General Bank Finn. CutcllfFe, Drake, and Co. Bury, Pyke, and Co. Ley, V/illcoek, & Co. Hamlyn & Chan- ter Thomas Burnard and Co. Hine, Holdsvvor- thy,&Pomcroy, jun. Skinner, Brown, and Co. Robt. Harris and Co. Hine and Holds- worth Sanders, Sons, & Co. Milford, Nation, and Co. Williams, Crocs, Sparkes, and Sparkes E On whom they draw. Sir James Esdiiile and Co. Barclay and Co. Sir James Esdaile and Co. Jones, Lloyd, and Co. Jones, Lloyd, and Co. Frys & Chapman. Frys & Chapman. Brown, Lang.. horn, & Co. Frys & Chapman. Barclays, Tritton, and Co. Robarts, Curtis, and Co. Hankey and Co. 58 Name and Place. Exeter Devon County Bank HonitonBank Honiton, East Devon Bank Ilfracomb Kingsbridge Bank Plymouth Bank Do. Naval Bank Plymouth - Dock Bank Do. Naval and Commercial Bank Plymouth - Dock General Bank Telgnmouth South Devon Bank Tiverton Bank Tavistock Bank Torrington, Tor- ridge Bank Totness Bank Totness General Bank. SANKIK6 HOUSES. Firm. Russell, Brooke, and Co. Flood, Lott, and Co. Smith, Brooke, & Co. Lee and Lock Prideaux, Square, Kingston, and Prideaux Elfords, Herberts, and Co. Harris and Co St. Aubyn and Co. Glencross and Co, Thos. Husband, & Thos. Husband, jun. Langmead, Hol- land, & Jordan Dunsford, Barne, and Boase Gill, Rundle, and Co. Cooke, Kingdon, Slade, Love- baud, & Cooke Wise, Farwell, & Co. Prideaux, Bentall, and Farwell Oa wh«m they draw. Curries and Co. Lubbock and Co, Hammersley&Co. Glynn and Co. Masterman & Co. Hoare, Hill, and Co. Lubbock and Co. Sir John Perring and Co. Lubbock and Co. Sir John Perring and Co. Masterman, Pe- ters, and Co. Sir John Lubbock. Hoare and Co. Jones, Lloyd, and Co. Sir P. Pole. Sir P. Pole. ( 39 ) TITLES CONFERRED BY THE COUNTY. This gives the title of Duke and Earl to the Caven- dishes; — the city of Exeter, those of Marquis and Earl to the Cecils ; — Plymouth, that of Earl to the family of Windsor Hickman ; — Tavistock, that of Marquis to the Russells; — Dartmouth, those of Earl and Baron to the Legges; — Ashburton, that of Baron to the Dunnings; — Torrington, that of Viscount to the Bings; — Sidmouth, the same to the Addingtons ; — and Chudleigh, the &ame to the Cliffords; — Mount Edgecumbe, those of Earl, Viscount, and Baron to the Edgecumbe family, &c. &g. — Borringdon, that of the latter to the Parkers, &c. &c. Quarter Sessions for the County of Devon, Are held at the city of Exeter, as follows s The first week after Epiphany; the first week after the close of Easter; the first week after the transla- tion of Thomas a Becket, or July 7; and the first week after October 11th. E? GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTY OF DEVON. BOUNDARIES. SITUATION, AKD EXTINT. 'T'HE maritime county of Devon is bounded by the Bristol Channel on the west and north-west ; on the west by the river Tamar, and a small rivulet called Marsland- water ; on the south and south-east by the British Channel; and by the counties of Dor- set and Somerset on the east and south-east. Devon is in its greatest length 69 miles, and its greatest breadth is 64 miles, containing about 1,600,000 acres, 33 hundreds, 349 parishes, 37 market-towns, 71,486 houses, and 439,040 inhabitants. The whole of Devonshire is in the diocese of Exeter and Western Circuit; it sends 26 representatives to Parliament, viz. two for the county, and two for each of the fol- lowing places: Exeter, Totness, Plymouth, Oak- hampton, Barnstaple, Plympton, Honiton, Tavistock, Ashburton, Dartmouth, Bere-Alston, and Tiverton. NAME. '* The hithermost part of the county of the Dan- monii is now commonly called Devonshire ; by the Cornish Britons, Deunon ; by the Welsh, Deufney, the deep vallies, because the lower parts of it are chiefly inhabited; by the Saxons, Deuonschire, whence comes the Latin name, Devona, and the com- mon contraction. Denshire, and not from the Danes, as the learned Rowe has remarked." — Camden. CLIMATE, That of Devonshire is remarkably mild, particularly the southern part, where vegetation suffers very little interruption during the winter season. It is only on the northern coast and in the north-east corner of the county, where any thing like the severity of winter is occasionally felt. On the highest parts of Dartmoor, SOIL. 41 the air, thougli bleak and piercing, is invigorating and salubrious. Even in this elevated region, the snow seldom lays any length of time. In fact, such is the mildness of the climate of the south of Devon and Cornwall, that medical men recommend it to their consumptive patients ; and many constitutions broken by a long residence in either of the Indies, are often preserved, and restored here. Another proof of the mildness of this part of the country, is that the Dutch broad-leaved flowering myrtle, as well as the more delicate and narrow-leaved sorts, constantly flourish in the open air, and frequently form a part of the garden hedges. SOIL. The heights of this in many parts, especially about Dartmoor, swell into mountains, the altitude of its eminences being from 1500 to 1800 feet. " On ap- proaching this tract from the south and south-east, the eye is bewildered by an extensive waste, exhibiting gigantic tors, large surfaces covered with masses of scattered granite and immense rocks, which seem to have been precipitately thrown into the rallies, as if torn piecemeal by the raging elements. The soils, strictly speaking, are divided into four sorts, but which are most judiciously described by Mr. Ciiarles Vancouver, in his General View of the Agricul- ture OF THE County of Devon : the first, according to Risdon, standeth most in white chalk, on the east side of the county; the second, is the red land, sur- rounding Exeter, and extending east and west of it ; the third, is the peat soil, principally about Dart- moor; the fourth, which pervades the greatest part of the county, though varied in its appearance by casual mixtures, is what has lately obtained the name of dun land rivers. But the soil most prevalent, is remarkable in two circumstances; "its rapid spontaneous production of grass, when under good management, and its total want of calcareous prin- ciple." The general character of the mineralogy of this county, is that of an elevated tract of granite, E3 42 RIVERS. running from noith to south, and pabsing iiito or under a super-stratum of primitive schistus, on its western side, and of aiiuvial sand-stone and clialk on the eastern limits. The mineral productions are Tin; some lodes of Copper, Iron, Zinc, Antimony, Manganese, Wolfram, Arsenic, and Cobalt. HI VERS. The principal rivers in ttiis county are the Exe, the Torridge, the Taw, the Oke, the Dart, the Plym, the Otter, and the Axe. The Tamar is also consi- dered as belonging to Devonshire. The Isk of the Britons, the Isca of the Romans, and the Ex, or Exe, of the Saxons and of the mo- derns, rises in Exmoor, in Somersetshire, witliin three miles of the Severn Sea, and, after being joined by several streams, it pursues its course into Devon- shire, passing Tiverton, where there is a stone bridge over the river. In its progress towards Exeter, it re- ceives the waters of the Loman, the C reedy from Cre- diton, commonly called Kirton, and the Culm, or Columbe, from CoUumpton and Bradninch. From Exeter the river flows thro^h a fine range of meadows to Topsham ; here it mefts the tide, and increasing considerabiy in capacity, becomes navigable for vessels of several hundred tons burthen. It at length falls into the British Channel at Exmouth, after a course from its source of nearly sixty miles. About i() miles above Saltash the Tamar receives the water of the Lvd, a small river rising a few miles above Lidford in Devonshire. This little river is par- ticularly remarkable for its course through the midst of rocks and over prodigious precipices. At Lidford- bridge, which is nearly level with the road, the sur- face of the water is almost eighty feet perpendicular below it, so that it can hardly be seen or heard from above. About a mile below Lid ford-bridge there is a cata- ract, or fall of water, of jnore than 100 feet in height. The water passes a mill at some distance, and, after a course upon a descent of near 100 feet from the RIVERS. 43 level of ihe mill, it nnivefi at tlie brink of" the preci- pice, from whence it Talis in a beautiful luanner on a projecting part of tiie cliff, by which it is divideH, and falls from thence in a wider cataract to the bot- tom; when striking the bottom with great violence, acquired by so prodigious a fail, it forms a deep ba- son covered with foam, in the ground; thence it runs in an easy current to the river Lyd. TheTorridge and Tamar have their source from the parish of Weil- comb. The source of the Torridge is so near that of the Tamar, in the norlhern part of Cornwall, on the sununit of a high moor, that its springs are supposed to be the same, and the difference of their course to rise from some trifling variation in the height of the ground near the place where they issue. This river becomes navigable at VVear-Gifford, about three miles from Bideford, and in its progress from thence unites with tlie Taw, and enters the Bristol Channel at Barnstaple Bay. The Taw rises in Dartmoor, and running north- ward .towards Chumleigh, from thence it winds in a westerly direction towards Barnstaple, receiving in its course the waters of the Mouie and several other small streams. About five miles below, it falls into the Torridge, as we have before men- tioned. The river Dart has also its source in the moun- tainous region of Dartmoor, and, according to some writers, derives its name from the velocity of its current, and it certainly appears extremely appro- priate. " Rapidity is its first characteristic, and this quality it retains long after it leaves those mountains which enclose its source, as it descends into the rich plains of the southern part of Devonshire. A little to the west of Ashburton it forms a charming valley, and flows in placid beauty beneath the high hill which is distinguished by the castle and church of Totness. 44 RIVERS. Soon after, the Dart receiving the tide, rolls in n majestic stream between bold hills, covered with cul- tivation, woods, and villages, disclosing new beauties at every curve, and presenting a grand object to the adjacent country, varied perpetually both in its form and attendant features. The eminences which en- close the channel of the Dart, become at last almost mountainous, forming on the west a barrier to the southern peninsula of Devonshire, and on the east to the road of Torbay ; while the river, winding between these rocky bases, passes the very striking position occupied by the hamlet of Kingswear on its eastern bank, and the singularly irregular town of Dartmouth on its western, the whitened fronts of whose houses, built in stages over each other, and beautifully inter- spersed with rock and wood, form a curious assem- blage of interesting objects. The ivyed walls of Dartmouth-castle, with a rustic spire starting out from beneath a bold rocky hill, close the prospect with great majesty, and strongly mark the proud exit of the Dart towards the British Channel." — Skrine*s History of Rivers. The Plym also rises in Dartmoor, in the parish of Lidford, the whole forest being in that parish, and, after a course of about seven miles, is joined by a small stream near Plympton, where it becomes navi- gable for small vessels, and two miles below, falls into Plymouth Sound, a Httle below Plymouth. The Tf.ign rises among the moors on the eastern side of the forest of Dartmoor, near Gidleigh, com- mencing with two small springs. Mr. Polwhele, in his history of this county, describes this river as " often pent up in deep and narrow vallies, whence the sound of its waters may be heard at a considerable distance : it is increased at every turn, by brooks descending from those coombs which terminate the heights of Haldon, and the downs of Bradford and Hennock. The country through which it passes is full of rocks till it approaches Bovey Tracy, %vhen it glides over a flat marshy ground, and, rolling under Teign-bridge, Spreads itself into a broader shallow channel, and thu3 runs on without ijitevrnplion to the sea. When swelled with rains, its colour is almost black; at other times brown." The Tavy rises in Dartjnoor, and after passing the little villages of Peter Tavy and Mary Tavy, winds through a deep valley to Tavistock. The ruins of the abbey upon the banks of this river, with the con- ti<:uous scenery, form a very romantic view. At some distance from Tamerton Foliot, the Tavy falls into the river Tamar. The Yealm, the Arme, and the Aven, also take their rise in Dartmoor. The Otter and the Sid enter the county from the borders of Somersetshire; the Axe runs out of Dorsetshire; and all of them flow into the British Channel. The Lyx, which rises in the forest of Exmoor, is a small but very rapid river, pursuing its impetuous course over rocks of immense size, and at length rushes into the Bristol Channel. CANALS. The canal from the quay at Exeter, to Cooley- bridge, proceeds from the latter point, east of the church, through the parish of Newton St. Cyres, and terminates at the Four Mills in Crcditon parish. The canal from Tavistock to the Tamar, at the distance of two miles and a half from the former place, strikes the north side of Moorwall Down. Its course is then south and a little westwardly ; it is cut eight feet deep, and six wide, having a depth of three feet three inches in water, to answer the pur- pose of navigating boats 24 feet in length, but not to exceed the burthen of two tons each. The canal at Teigngrace not only facilitates the exportation of pipe-clay, but supplies water for irri- gating the adjoining grounds, and which has raised their value from 500/. to 1500/. per annum. The Crediton, the Exeter, and the Tavistock canals are now completed. The Tamar canal, which 46 FI5U AND FISHERIES, only skirts the western edge of the county, was begun nearly nineteen years since. CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISIONS. This connty is divided into thirty-three hundreds, containing one city, Exeter; thirty-seven market- towns, 1733 villages, and a population, according to the returns under the late act, of 383,308. Devon- shire is in the province of Canterbury and diocese of Exeter, and has 394 parishes. FISH AND FISHERIES. The rivers of Devonshire abound with fish so much, that besides supplying home consumption, great quan- tities are taken for the London markets. The rivers Tavy and Tamar produce considerable revenues to their proprietors from their salmon. The Otter is famous for its trout and salmon peel or pail. The oyster-beds at Starcross, Topsham, and Lympstone, are extremely productive. The salmon fishery of the Tavy is attached to the lands of Buckland-place, and the weir is a work of considerable magnitude and expence ; but the principal part of the produce of this fishery is taken by nets. The river Tavy, for near a mile below the weir, is broken into rapids and pools, some of them very deep; seven or eight of these are adapted to the sean or draw-net, drawn once or twice a day by four men, with horses to carry the net, and with dogs to convey the end of the rope across the water, where it is too deep or inconvenient to be forded. In the Tavy, the fishing season commences in the middle or latter end of February ; but on the Tamar, not till several weeks afterwards, and closes in Octo- ber or November, when the weir is thrown open, and the fish are suffered to go up to spawn. The herring-fishery, formerly carried on to a con- siderable extent, is in a great measure lost, as the herrings have unaccountably forsaken the shores of Devon; a circumstance much to be lamented, being such a one as is entirely out of the reach of human wisdom to supply. A few, however, still frequent PISH AND FISHERIES. 47 the coast in the fall of the year, but are very small, both in size and quantity. Pilchards also still fre- quent the southern coasts of Devon, Dorset, and Cornwall. The weir-house, or trap, for catching the salmon, is constructed on the principle of the vermin-trap, whose entrance is outwardly large, but contracted invvardly, so as to elude or prevent the escape of the animal which has been taken in it. It is remarkable, however, with respect to salmon, that although the entrance is by no means so narrow as to prevent even the largest from returning, it is believed that there is no instance of those which have once entered quitting their confinement, though they may have remained in it several days. A circumstance, perhaps, which can only be accounted for in the natural propensity, or instinct, which directs them against the stream, and will not suffer them to give up any advantage which they may have gained ; the ascent into the trap being an effort of difficulty, in this case perhaps too great. On the higher side of the trap, (which is twelve or fifteen feet square on the inside), opposite to the en- trance, is an opening or sluice in the stone-work, or rather the rock, as a passage for the water. This opening has two lifting flood-gates, the one close, to shut out occasionally the whole of the water, the other a grate, to suffer the water to pass, and at the same thne to prevent fish of any considerable size from escaping. When the trap is set, the close gate is drawn up with an iron crow, thus suffering the water to pass through the house. On the contrary, to take the fish which have entered, the close gate is let down, and the trap is presently left in a manner dry. It is observable, that the narrowed entrance of the trap is judiciously placed somewhat above the floor, so that before the salmon are seriously alarmed by the fall of the water, it has sunk below the mouth of the trap, and their retreat the more effectually cut off; for by following the water near the floor, they 48 AGniCULl UllE. are led away beiieath the tunnel, whicli like the open Hood-gate, &c. is made of blrow^^ wooden bars, open enougi) lo permit the passage vi the water, hut not the fish. The top or covering of the trap is a floor of planks, nearly level with the top of the wear; on the lower side of which, the trap is of course situated, AGRICULTURE. That of Devonshire, with its mines and other pro- ductions, this county being next in size to Yorkshiie, renders it one of the most valuable in England. So much at least may be inferred from Vancouver and other agriculturists. The external aspect of this county is however extremely varied and irreguhir ; and the heights in many parts, but particularly in Dartmoor and its vicinity, swell into mountains, the akiludes of the principal eminences being from loOO to 1800 feet. Cultivation is pronioted and encou- raged by the Devonshire Agricultural Society, first established in 1791; and from its perfection, the district called the South Hams is frequently rermed the garden of Devonshire. The area of this dibtrict, including the rich valley of the Dart, whicii extends towards Ashburton, contains nearly 250 square miles. Tijis tract is strikingly diversified by bold swells, winding coombs, and fine vales ; and in many parts, ^particularly touanis the north, the scenery is pictu- resque and highly romantic. The upper grounds of the South Hams are appropriated alternately to pas- ture and to tillage; the lower grounds are principally cultivated as meadows. All the lands are in a state of permanent enclosure; the fences are chiefiy high mounds, surmounted by coppice-wood, which affords a sufficient supply of fuel, and a surplus of poles, cord, wood, faggots, and oak-bark for sale. An annual meeting of the South Devonshire Agri- cultural Society has~ long been held alternately at Totufcss and Kingsbridge ; and that for the North of Devon, at Darnstaple. MANURES. 40 VvASTE LANDS. The principal of these lie in and about the forest of Dartmoor, and have occupied the greatest portion of the western district of the connty, extending from the Vale of Exeter, nearly to the banks of tJieTamar, including between two and three hundred acres of open and uncultivated lands. Of these, Dartmoor alone, before the late cnchisure, comprised nu.ny thousand acres. These extensive tracts atlbrd little more than a scanty pasturage for a feu- thousand sheep and cattle. Ti)e right of depasture belongs to different interests ; the forest itself being the property of the Prince af Walet, as a parcel of the iJnchy of Cornwall ; but tl}e outhkirts and parts of the hills are appurtenances to the surrounding manors, many of which iiave likewise a prescriptive right of c.'mmon on the forest, on account of an inconsiderable sum paid annually to the Duchy. In the higher parts of the moor, to the nortli and west, are vast tracts of wet swampy ground, exceeding dangerous to the pasturing cattle, though they supply the neighbouring inhabitants with peat for fuel. Many of the peat- bogs are of great depth, and in dry sinnmers arc covered with a strong succulent grass. MANURES. The principal manures employed in this county are lime, sea-sand, and dung. In the southern part of the Hams, being at a considerable distance frotn lime, they have long been in the habit of making use of sea-sand, as a substitute for it, in the propor- tion of one or two hundred seams per acre, (each seam contains two bushels). This they mixed with earth, the scrapings of the lanes, mud from ponds, and bottoms of the ditches, but especially with rotten dung, when it could be procured. Most of this, on account of the country being hilly, was carried on horses' backs, till carts and other vehicles equally coovenient were brought into more general use. 50 FARMS AKD FARMERS. MANSIONS, FARM-HOUSES, &C. The ruinated state of the former in this county h much lamented, as it is not unfrequent to see two or three apartments in some of these, propped up as the residence of the hind, or baihff of the estate ; and at the same time the elegance, the plan, and com- forts of the modern buildings, are in many instances less estimable than in the ancient and hospitable manor-houses. In some parts the farm-houses are situated just above the reach of the autumnal and winter floods, and in others they are frequently found grouped together in villages, and are sometimes constructed of cob and stone-work. This stone, which is soft and easily worked when first taken from the quarry, becomes hard and durable when exposed to the air, and is very neat in its appearance. The repairs of walls, floors, roofs, and doors, are usually done by the landlord ; and all others, except the finding of stuff" for gates, rails, and posts, are performed by the tenant. FARMS AND FARMERS. With regard to the size of farms in general, the smaller occupants most commonly reside near the borders of Dartmoor, and the larger hold rich tracts of feeding and arable land in the country below. Many of the minor order that are called farmers, derive a considerable part of their subsistence from digging, and curing peat fuel, upon Dartmoor, and the commons abutting upon that forest, and packing it to the large towns in the South Hams. Another description of farmers, or rather jobbers, are con- tinually upon the watch, ransacking the country for every species of farming stock, whether store, or in a fed condition. The farms of these people are often covered with sheep, hogs, and cattle, collected in this manner ; and when Plymouth or Exeter do not afford a satisfactory market, they proceed towards LEASES, i.e. 51 Taunton with their droves, and keep moving ecistward till they find a market that will suit them. This being accomplished, they return home, and resume their former pursuits. The owners of the pastures about Exmoor, in some degree resemble this descrip- tion ; they are said to work equally hard with the common labourers, and live little, if at all better, than the most provident of that class. LEASES, kc. With very few exceptions, the landed property in this county seems very much divided. A large por- tion of it is in the hands of a respectable yeomanry, and other estates belonging to the sees of Exeter, York, and Salisbury, the Dean and Chapter of Windsor, the universities, and the Duchy of Corn- wall, forming no inconsiderable part of the whole county. Here too the proprietor is commonly advised to grant those life-hold tenures so frequently heard of in Devonshire and in Wales, and which are deemed more injurious than is generally apprehended ; but fortunately this species of tenure is become much lessened within the last twenty-five years. The pro- prietors of the fee-simple used to lease their estates generally for three lives, nominated by the purchaser ; or for ninety-nine years, if a nominee survive that term; a circumstance that has happened, reserving, however, a small annual rent. As these lives drop, new ones were generally put in, on payment of an adequate sum. The usual manner of letting farms and estates here, is by what is called a survey or auction. These are often held at a public-house, where the steward has every thing in readiness to stimulate and encourage the bidding ; which closed, the landlord, through his steward, names his price, which is offered to the highest bidder downwards, to the last person who would be approved. Should no one accept it, the company disperses, and the farm is disposed of by private contract, no preference being given to the old tenant or his family, whose principal object during the latter period of the term. 52 TiniES. is usually to delapidate, pare, and burn, and by every metiioxi vvhicli can be devised, despoil the farm. On many occasions a per centage is allowed to the steward, for liis address in procuring a high bidding at thi.s suiA'ey or auction. There are, however, sevend covenants where these leases do not prevail, which are sold by the same mode for a term of fourteen or twenty-one years ; determinable every seven years, on a twelvemonth's notice by either party. What is nmv called a term of fourteen years absolute, is taking place of the lifehold tenures; and the covenants of tlie former require, that 60 mea- sures of lime, or 200 horse-loads of sea-sand, sea- weed, Plymouth, Exeter, or other rich, rotten dung, shall be applied per acre, and not to have more than two white straw crops in succession; besides being restrained from carrying either hay or straw to mar- ket without returning \\ith a corresponding quantity of dung. Many of the farms are very small, varying from 20/» per annum to 700/. and upwards. TITHES. The church property, consisting of tithes and demesnes belonging chiefly to the see of Exeter, are frequently held in perpetuity by the nobility and gentry, renewable with certain or arbitrary fines. I'hesc are justly called valuable possessions, though an indulgence is sometimes given, and formerly went to a greater length, enabling the widow of the last surviving tenant to the church lands in possession, to liold over the estate so long as she remained unmar- ried. However, as intrigues and a loose and disre- putable attachment were too frequently the result, great care is now taken by the bishop to prevent them. The general commutation taken by the Clergy here for great and small tithes, is about two shillings and sixpence in the pound, on the reserved rent, includ- ing the parochial disbursements; or about three shil- lings in the pound on the reserved rent alone. When tJie great and small tithes are separate, the rector is COTTAGES. 6S generally contented with two shillings in the pound, and for the vicarial tithes not covered by a modus, a just and reasonable commutation is paid. The general commutation for great and small tithes, is two shillings and sixpence, two shiUings and nine- pence, and three shiUings in the pound, including the valuation of the reserved rent and parochial dis- bursements. In the neighbourhood of Dartington, the commutation is regulated at two shillings and sixpence in the pound rent, when the average price of wheat is below nine shillings per bushel, and three shillings in the pound when above that average. COTTAGES. These, or rather the oldest of ihem, are generally built of stone, and considering that this article is by no means difficult to procure, it was hoped this would have caused a discontinuance of the use of mud- walls, the cob-buildings of which have been remarked as nearly as numerous as those once used by the Belga, who were the first to introduce this dull, heavy, and deforming material ; and when these are not rough-cast, or white-washed, their appearance at a distance resembles a peat-field ; from both of which smoke may be sometimes seen to issue. However, there are now very comfortable cottages, with a fire- place and oven in the principal room, about fourteen feet square ; two small rooms behind the larger, one for fuel and provisions ; the upper story divided into two apartments, for the parents and their children. Such cottages are now built in this county, and de- cently finished for less than 80/. The Rev, Mr. Lux- more, Lord Clifford, Lord Rolle, and several other distinguished proprietors, have exerted themselves very laudably in providing decent habitations for the labouring poor. From cottages attached to farms, Mr. Vancouver has observed, the most substantial benefits have resulted. For these, with a garden, the compensation is various, but is averaged sliort of 40s. per annum; but the rent of the cottage, with a small F3 54 ENCLOSIKG. patch fur pot-iieibs only, may be taken at about 305. per annum. LABOUR AJt^D LABOUKERS. The wages of the out-door labourer is generally seven shillings per week, winter and summer, and from a quart to three pints of drink daily. Even in hay-time and harvest th.ese wages are not increased, thougluidditional exertions at those seasons are amply compensated by board, and treatings with ale and cider. During the war, the addition to these wages was the standing supply of wheat at six shillings, and barley at three shillings per bushel. A portion of land is also assigned by the farmer to each peasant family for growing potatoes, which enables some of these to keep a pig. Among the small farmers, the men are often content to receive Ss. 6d. per week and their board. It is also no unusual practice in the northern and western part of the county for a man to work at harvesting for one day, only for his drink and hoard, upon condition that he shall be invited to the harvest frolic at the farmer's house, which continues for some days together. Near large trading towns the price of labour has occasionally risen with the demand. But the hours of work and stinted labour have long been customary here : the former are from seven to twelve, and from one to between five and six. Even in surmner, when at day-work, the labourer may be seen on his way liome with his tools at his back : this however is not the result of idleness, but of custom; as having per- formed his stint, the labourer is no longer detained. ENCLOSING. Instances are very rare of enclosures being made in some districts : in others, they have been altoge- ther as large: for instance, adjoining Black-down on the west, in the parish of Loddiswell, about 70 acres of moorland have been enclosed ; and amongst others, more considerable, about 1200 acres were enclosed by the late General Simcoe, of Black-down hills. IMPLEMEKTS. 55 GARDENS y>ND ORCIJ/lRDS. It is presumed, tiiat kitchen gardens are in no part of England laid out on a more extensive scale than in the count}' of Devon ; and next to considerable quantities of well-flavoured wall-fruit, the culinary vegetables can no where be surpassed for general excellence. The gardens of the farmers and pea- santry, generally aftbnl large quantities of leeiis, so iBuCli in use among them ; and these, with pot-herbs, other kitclien, and a few ornamental plants and flowers, wholly occupy these gardens, whilst pota- toes are supplied from larger portions of ground in the fields. Cider being liie common beverage of tj^e inhabitants, the cultivation of orchards is of course a material consideration; however the number of orchards in some parts diilers materially from others. IMPLEMENTS. The common Devonshire plough made by a hedge- row carpenter, seldom exceeding 15s. cost, irons and all, is much used, and its performance is nmch supe- rior to what may be expected from the rude appear- ance it makes, either at work or lying upon the ground. The paring-plough is also used iiere, to supply tlie use of the breast-plough, or paring-shovel; as is also the turn-wrest, one-way furrow, or double-sole plough ; and Lord Clifford has introduced the double and sin- gle Warwickshire ploughs : the Norfolk wheel-plough is also used. Harrows commonly used here, consist of a very heavy drag, usually drawn by four or six oxen; and a lighter kind of harrow, sometimes in one piece, but more commonly divided in the middle, and connected with links. Drill-machines are also at- tached to the ploughs by various contrivances. Thrash- ing-machines made by Baker of Exeter, are very pre- valent, and cost about forty guineas each; and scari- fiers, scufflers, shims, and broad shares, of various constructions, called by the general name of torvien- torSy are much in use here. ROADS AND PACK-HORSES. These, upon the whole, arie not in the first order 56 HORSES, MULES, &e. of excellence. The parish roads are extremely va- rious : the fault of the whole seems to result from the black gravel, &c. out of which they are made, which from its excessive coarseness, is soon broken into so many holes, as much to endanger the knees of the horse, and the neck of the rider; but whilst the pa- rish roads are very indifferent, the public roads round Exeter, Axminster, Honiton, and many other large towns in the county, cannot be surpassed by any hi England. Another inconvenience arises from the height of some of the hedge-banks, on each side of the roads, often covered with a rank growth of coppice-wood, which uniting and interlocking with each other over- head, suggests the idea ofexploring a labyrinth, rather than that of passing through a much frequented coun- try. But the most unpleasant sensations result from the traveller's meeting with, or being overtaken by a gang of pack-horses. The rapidity with which these ani- mals descend the hills, when not loaded, and the utter impossibility of passing loaded ones, enforce the utmost caution in keeping out of the way of the one, and exertion in keeping a-head of the other. A cross-way fork in the road, or gateway, is eagerly looked for, as a retiring spot to the traveller, until the pursuing squadron, or heavy-loaded brigade, may have passed by. In these roads it is impossible to form any idea of the surrounding country, as the size and depth of the abutting fields are only to be seen through a breach in the mound, over a style, or through a gateway. HORSES, MULES, &C. Besides the pack and the larger cart-horses, a small snug breed have been getting much in use, in differ- ent parts of the county. These are out to grass all summer, and are gene- rally wintered upon very coarse hay. When the day's work is over in summer, which is performed in one journey of about eight or nine hours, they are returned to the field ; and in winter they are racked WAGGONS, C/\RTS, &C. 57 up as before mentioned. fJut in the horse establislj- ment. at Ugbrook, the pleasurable and sporting horses, as well as those devoted to the labours of the lain), are under u very different system: for large quantities of fern being aniuially mown in the park, and neatly stacked up for use, the horses are kept constantly littered, winter and sunjmer, with a bed of this fern or straw. In summer, tares, clover, or grass mown in the plantations, are given them, with regular stated feeds of dry meat, consisting of the chaff of corn, mixed with the chaff of wheat or bar- ley, or cut hay^and straw; an example happily fol- lowed by Lord Clifford's tenants in general, where precept alone would have failed. The largest breeds of horses are generally found in the less hilly parts of this county. In the south and western parts, several mules and asses are constantly employed in packing sand, from the sea-side to the distance of several miles in the interior. Both the ass and the mule are extremely hardy and actiw; and tlie latter much more so than the horse. URIDGES, Not belonging to public roads, are generally kept in very good repair by the different parishes; the road-surveyor or way-warden of which, always takes care that the bridges shall be sufficiently numerous and safe, to ensure a convenient and ready passage through the country. And this is indispensably ne- cessary in a county abounding with narrow vallies, and occasionally covered with a .considerable depth of water, vvhich frequently rises and falls in the course of a few hours. WAGGONS, CART?. &c. In the hilliest parts of the country, horses are used for packing lime, dung, and all otlier purposes for which wheel-carriages would be used upon n level and unbroken surface. A number of two-horse carts, carrying from 15 to 18 cwt. each, are in very com- mon use, and one-horse carts, or butts, are also much used; they are made to tip up like tumbrils, and v^ill 58 MINERALS. hold about Ave seams, or from 10 to 12 bushels each. On low wheels, they are very convenient for loading large stones, or any heavy article. Here are also three-wheel butts, with barrow handles, drawn by one horse, and holding, level full, from five to six bushels. Few winnowing-machines, excepting a common ■whisk or fly, are used in this county ; and reaping- hooks, with smooth edges, are generally preferred to sickles with sawed ones. WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. A custom universally prevails, of heaping the fourth peck in measuring a bushel of wheat; and as the diameter of these peck-measures are very various, a difference in the measure of almost every farmer is the natural consequence. This evil, howevej', is frequently corrected by the common usage of selling wheat by the bag, or what is called two bushels. And as this bag must weigh seven score, this grain is in effect sold by weight in most markets of the county. This is not so generally the case in respect to oats or barley, in which the buyers depend more upon bulk than specific weight. Butter, with few exceptions, is 18 ounces to the pound, throughout the county. MINERALS. The mineral productions of this county are, culm, copper, iron-stone, lead, limestone, ochre, umber, grout-stone, &c. Between Appledore and Wear- Gifford on the Torridge, 25 lime-kilns have been em- ployed ; which, when at work, have yielded 100 common measures of lime every 24 hours. There are two copper mines working in the vicinity of Ta- vistock ; a lead mine on the west of the Tavy, in the parish of Beer Ferris, and some old stream works have been renewed in the parish of Plymplon St. Mary's. The copper mnine at Buckland, has also been very successful. The fossil substance, called Bovey eoal, lies in several parallel seams, at the distance of six or eight feet from each other, to the depth of 60 feet. This is found in the valley near the western branch MANUFACTURES. 59 of the iBovey Tracey : it is sometimes taken up for fuel. This coal exliibits a series of gradations, from the most perfect ligneous texture, to a substance nearly approaching the character of pit-coal ; and is found diffused in very small pieces through all the beds of potters-clay in the parishes o£ Teigngrace and King's Teignton. Great quantities of granite or moor-stone are found in different parts of the county, and particularly about Dartmoor. The inflammable substance called Bovey coal, is found in the extensive level of Bovey Heathfield ; its exterior parts, lying next to the clay, have a mixture of earth, and are generally of a dark brown, or cho- colate colour. Much of the finer clays are found about Wear-Gifford, &c. Great quantities of pipe and potters'-clay are annually sent from Teignmouth to the potteries of London, Staffordshire, and other parts. The potteries at Bideford use a red clay brought from Fremington, and manufactured into coarse ware. Some beautiful quartz crystals are found in the fissures of the rocks in Dartmoor; and good free- stone in Salcombe, Branscombe, and Bere. The tin and copper mines were formerly more numerous than at present, especially about Tavistock, &c. ; and the lead mines at Combe Martin were very productive of native silver : gold also was obtained, according to va- rious grants, made in the reigns of Edward the Third and Richard the Second. Much limestone is also found near Chudleigh, Drew-Steignton, Sampson- Peverell, &c. and between Appledore and V/ear- Gifford. Most beautiful marbles are procured at Chudleigh and Babbicombe, not inferior to those of Italy. MANUFACTUllES. The late war inflicted a considerable blow upon the manufactures of this county, in duroys, serges, and other light cloths, and which it has by no means recovered since the peace. Coarse beavers, however, 60 SCEN.ERY. ure still niauufactured at Barnstaple, 6ic. us well as druggets, and dyed scarlet, tor the East Indies. The Barnstaple potteries cuusist niostiy of dairy and kitchen utensils. A considerable trade in gloves is still carried on at Tiverton, though the woollen-cloth manufactures tiiere, and at Great Torriiigton, jjave declined. Serges are made at Totncss, Tvloreton Ilampstead, CliafFord, and other places; and the long ells of Devonshire are still known in the county. The activity of the iron and cordage works for the royal dock-yards, only ceased with the late peace. Silk and {)orcelaia have been deemed the principal manu- factures of this c(;iiiity; but its productions from the mines, and its fisheries, are very coiisiderabie. A considerable quantity of yarn, as well as of laces, are also manufactured; the latter at Uoniton, and in its vicinity. A china manufactory was also established at Plymouth about 1810. Fisiiing-nets at Barnstaple are wove in a lootn. From several of the ports in this county, a good trade has been carriecl on to Nt^wfoimdland, Ireland, the Mediterranean, and most of the ports in the Bristol Channel. SCENEUY. The high down that overhangs the church and vil« lago of Cadbury, is capped with an old circular forti- fication, called Cadbury-castle: from the mounds of this enclosure, there is one of the richest and most extensive views in the county. The work consists of a deep ditch and rampart, enclosing about two acres of ground in the area. The forest of Dartmoor rises with a bold and ma- jestic grandeur over all the surrounding heights, which compose an extremely rough and broken re- gion. The summit of this waste is divided by certain meets and bounds, from the commons belonging to the surrounding parishes, into an extended plain, and so much of this stupendous eminence as is called the Forest of Dartmoor; the extreme summit of which, from the level of the sea, is upwards of 2000 feet. SCENKRy. 6t It« whole surface, including tlie rockb, consists of two kinds; a wet peaty moor, or vegetable mould, affording good pasturage for sheep and bullocks, and an inveterate swamp, aosoluteiy inaccessible to the lightest and most active quadruped, that may safely traverse the sounder parts of the forest. The bay which the river Dart forms at its mouth, is one of the most beautiful scenes on the coast; both the entrance of the Dart into it, and its exit to the sea, appear from many stations, closed up by the folding of the banks, so that the bay has frequently the form of a lake, only furnished with shipping in- stead of boats. Its banks are its great beauty; they consist of lufiy wooded hills, shelving down in all di- rections. The Rev. Mr. Warner, in his " Walk through the Weblern Counties," t>lserves, " Immediately in the i'rout of Teign mouth, the broad interminable ocean spreads its ever-varying expanse. To the right, a river, wide and miijebtic, rolling its waters between gently rising and well wooded hills, stretches for seve- ral mile.s, and is terminated by the black sides and rocky summits of Dartmoor; and to the left, along range of dark arenacious cliff presents itself, full of rocks and recesses, and finishing in a rocky crag, of a most grotesque and fantastic form." The banks of tlicriver Teign are most peculiarly attractive. The v.ildness of the wood and rock, now washed by the Teign, now starting from the sides of the hill, seems the discriminating feature. To instance one of the wildests spots near the village of Crock- ernwell, where the Teign runs at the base of the " Moving Rock," we descend into the valley amidst vast masses of granite ; and looking back, we see them as it were Ijursiing asunder, and only prevented from falling by their chains of ivy. In other places, enormous ledges overshadowed by oaken foliage, ap- pear like the ruins of a castle. This is particularly the case in the vicinity of the Cromlech — where the berry of the mountain-ash, here remarkably luxuriant, 62 SOCIETY ASD MANNERS. has a beautiful appearance from chasms of rock in- crusted with pale moss. The eye reposes with plea- sure on the richness of the woods of WhiJdon, after contemplating precipices that seemed ribbed with iron, and follows the receding hills, wave after wave, till they are lost in azure. Much more of this fascinating kind of scenery so peculiar to Devon- shire, will occur in the course of our Topographical Journeys. SOCIETY AND MANNERS, As they relate to rustical affairs, are particularly distinguishable during the wheat harvest, when the wheat being ready to cut down, notice is given in the neighbourhood, that a reaping is to be performed on a particular day : as a farmer may be more or less liked in the village, on the morning of the day ap- pointed, a gang, consisting of an indefinite number of men and women, assemble in the field, and the reap- ing commences after breakfast, which is seldom over till between eight and nine o'clock. This company is open for additional hands to drop in at any time before the twelfth hour, to partake of the frolic of the day. The dinner, consisting of the best meat and vegetables, is carried into the field between tvvelve and one, and distributed with copious draughts of ale and cider. At two, cutting and binding is re- sumed; and at five, what is calfed the drinkings, are taken into the field, accompanied with buns, cakes, &c. When all is over, about the close of the even- ing, a small sheaf is bound up and set u])on the top of one of the ridges, when the reapers retiring to a certain distance, each throws his reap-hook at the sheaf, until one of them strikes it down. This achieve- ment is accompanied with the utmost stretch and power of the voices of the company, uttering the words, we ha in! we ha in! The company after- wards retire to the farm-house to sup, after which, they make merry with ale and cider, to a late hour. At the same house, or that of a neighbouring farmer, a similar course in probably renewed between eight LEARNED AND EMINENT MEN, NEWSPAPERS, &c. 63 and nine o'clock on the following morning. The la- bourers thus employed, it must be observed, receive no wages, but instead of this, receive an invitation to the farmer's home at Christmas, when open house is kept three or four days at least; and if the rudeness of the bear-garden is sometimes exhibited, the opu- lent, who can command their hours and means of gratification at pleasure, should not envy those of the rustic. " Let not ambition mock their useful toil, Their humble joys and destiny obscure, Nor grandeur hear with a disdainful smile. The short and simple annals ef the poor.'' Cider is now from 3/. to 3/. 105. per hogshead. The brewing of what is called white ale, is almost exclusively confined to Kingsbridge. It is said to be made by mashing twenty gallons of malt with the same quantity of boiling water: after standing the usual time, the wort is drawn off; when six eggs, four pounds of flour, a quarter of a pound of salt, and a quart of grout, are beat up together and mixed with the rest, which after standing twelve hours, is put into a cask, and is ready for use the following day. This beverage is described as having a very intoxicat- ing quality : but that it is of considerable antiquity, is plain from the terrier of the advowson of Dodsbrook, which expressly demands the tithe of white ale. The present worthy incumbent commutes this claim for half a guinea annually, from each house in the parish. LEARNED AND EMINENT MEN, NEWSPAPERS, 8tC. A mere list of all the eminent natives of this county, would occupy much more room than a work of this kind would admit. The worthies of Devon, down to the commencement of the 18th century, werefcol- lected in a folio volume by the Rev. John Prince. The following are among the most celebrated names : Sir John Fortescue Aland, an able judge, born at Fortescue 16T0, died 1746. — Rev. John Barcham, a G2 64 LEARNTD AKD EMINENT MEN, NEWSPAPERS, &€!. learned antiquary, boni at Exeter 1572, died \64'2. — Gervase Burrington, a learned preliite, died IGIO. — >Vrchbisljoj) Baldwin, who accompanied Richard the First to the Holy Land, and died there in 1191, was born at Exeter. — Henry de Bathe, ft celebrated judge, died V261. — Sir John Berry, a naval coni- nmnder, born at Ki.owston 1635, was poisoned on board his ship at Portsmouth 1691. — Sir Thomas Bodley, an eminent patron of learning, and founder of the Bodleian Library at Oxfurd, was born at Exe- ter 1544,. died 1612. — Thomas Brancker, a cele- brated mathematician, born 1636, died 1676. — Wil- liani Browne, a pastoral poet, born at Tavistock, died 1659. — John Burton, a divine, born :'.t Wemworthy, died 1771. — Sir Simon Baskerville the rich, born at Exeter 1573, died 1641.— The eccentric Bampfylde Moore Carew was born at Bickley 1693, died 1770. — Rev. Dean Carpenter, noted for his skill in mathe- matics, born at Hatherleigh, died 1635. — Lady Mary Chudleigl), an ingenious poetess of her time, born at Winsland 1656, died 1710.— John Churchill, the im- mortal Duke of Marlborough, who harl no stain on his character but avarice^ was born at Ashe in 1659, and died in a state of mental derangement at Windsor in 1722. — William Courtney, Archbishop of Canter- bury, who condemned the reformer WicklitYe and his followers, was born in 1341, died 1396.— Mrs. Han- nah Cowley, an ingenious dramatic writer, born at Tiverton 1733, died 1809.— John Davis the naviga- tor, who discovered the streights bearing his name, was born at Sandridge, and was killed in an engage- ment with the Japanese, on the coast of Malacca, in 1605.— Sir Francis Drake, one of our most distin- guished naval heroes, commanders, and circunmavi- gators, born near Tavistock 1545, died in the West Indies 1596. — John Dunning, Lord Ashburton, an eminent lawyer and statesman, born at Ashburton 1731, died 1783 : he was frequently the unbought ad- vocate of the poor and oppressed. — The Rev. Dr. James Forster, a dissenting clergyman, of uncommon LEARNED AND EMINENT MEN, NEWSPAPERS, &C. 65 oratorial abilities, born at Exeter 1697, died 1753. — Theophilus Gale, another learned dissenting divine, was born at King's Teignton in 1628, died 1678. — John Gay, the poet, was born at Barnstaple in 1688. — Sir John Hawkins, a gallant admiral, born at Ply- mouth, and died off Porto Rico 1590.— John Hooker, a learned antiquary and chronicler, born at Exeter 1524, died 1601 : his nephew Richard, called " The Judicious Hooker," was born at Heavitree in 1553. — William Jackson, a musical composer, and ingenious writer and painter, born at Exeter 1730, died 1803. — John Jewel, a prelate, whose learning and abilities, at his time of day, were celebrated over all Europe, was born at Berry Narber, and died of a complaint brought on by intense study in 1571. — George La- vington. Bishop of Exeter, well known for his " En- thusiasm of Methodists and Papists compared," was born at Heavitree 1683, died 1762. — Sir Walter Ra- leigh, the illustrious navigator and historian, was born at Budley 1522, and was most unjustly beheaded in 1617. — Dr. Benjamin Kennecott, one of the most learned and industrious biblical critics this country ever produced, was born at Totness, of which place his father was parish-clerk, — Dr. Edward Lye, divine, antiquary, and lexicographer, was also a native of Totness, and born in 1704. — ^Tristram Risdon, the faithful historian of his county, was born at Winscot 1580, died 1640 : a new and very correct edition of his Chorographical Description of Devon was pub- lished at Plymouth in 1811, with an introductory view of the county, and numerous additions. — John Shebbeare, M. D. a political writer of great abilities, born at Bideford, 1709, died 1788.--Dr. Thomas Sprat, Bishop of Rochester, historian and poet, born at Tallaton 1636, died 1713.— Rev. Dr. Thomas Yal- den, a poet, born at Exeter 1671. — Rev. William Tasker, a poet and dramatic writer, born at Iddes- leigh 1740, died 1800. — Thomas Rennel, a painter and poet, born at Chudleigh 1718, died 1788.— Rev. Simon Ockley, orientalist and historian, born at G3 66 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCKIPTION OF Exeter 1678, ' Oi durini; the civil wars, when it was <:aiTi«one(J for Charles ihe First; but was afterwards ooniplctGiy re- paired by Colonel Francis Fulford : it is dcscrib't d by VVestcote and Prince, as being, " without, well ac- coinmodated with gardens, fish-ponds, and a park ; within, by a beautiful oratory, neatly wainscottcd and seated, and richly paved with white polished marble; as is the great hall checquer-wise, with white and black marble. Tlie staircase is a piece of exquisite workmanship, diversified with various kinds of wood, artificially inlaid, the carved ceiling of which is ex- ceediui^Jy well executed, and conducts us to a noble diniu<: or drawing-room, very handsomely furnished. In this drawintj^-room is to be seen a portrait of Ciiarles t.he Firsi, seated in his royal robes. I'his picture u as pr.inted by Vandyke, after his Majesty's condemnation, and given to Sir Francis Fultbrd, Knt. as a testimony of royal approbation Here too is a very large jdcture, representing t lie battle of Grave - lines, in 1558, and a numerous variejy of other fine paintings. The approach to Fulford-iiouso by the lodge, is about a mile through tlie park, which abounds v.itb a number of f(jrest trees, and presents a great inequality of smfact, rendering the scenery highly diversified." In the parish of Mancton, near Morcion, is Becky Fall, a fine cataract, in the midst of a wood. Pursuing our journey at the distance of nine miles from Drcw-Steignton, and twenty-one from Oak- bampton, we proceed to EXETER. This city, the capital of Devonshire, is situated on the river Exe, 172 miles from London, about twenty- four miles from the eastern extremity of Devon, and thirty miles from Cornwall; nine miles from the sea towards the south, and thirty miles from the Bristol Channel. Exeter is a place of great antiquity, having been a British settlement Jong previous to the Roman inva- sion. Camden suy>, " I'his city is called by Ptolemy DEVON94IIKE. 73 Iscfif by Antoninus Isca Dnnynontuin, for Daninoni- oruni ; by others, falsely, Augusta., as if tlie Legio. II. Aug. had been stationed there ;" by the Saxons Exancestrcy and Munketon, from the Monks; now Exester, in Latin Exinia, in British Caer-Isc, Caer- usb, and Pcnraer, g. d. a chief city. " This city," says Mahnsbury, " though situate in a marshy and dreary soil, which will scarcely yield bad oats, often only producing empty husks without grain, yet by its magnificence, the wealth of its inhabitants, and the resort of straagers, carries on so great a trade, that nothing useful is wauling in it." It stands on the east side of the Isca, on a hill gently sloping to the east, but more steep to the west ; is defended by stout ditches, and walls with many towers; is in circuit a mile and a half, with several large suburbs ; has fifteen parish churches, and in the highest part of it, near the east gate, a castle anciently called Rouge- mont, once the seat of the Saxon kings, afterwards of the Earls of Cornwall, now remarkable only for its antiquity and situation. It commands the city and country below, and a fine view of the sea. " In the east part of the city is the cathedral church, surrounded with handsome buildings, founded by King Athelstan, in honour of St. Peter, and fdled by monks, according to the history of the place. Afterwards Edward the Confessor, the monks being removed to Westminster, placed here a bishop's see, transferring hither the sees of Cs-houses, for the decayed and indigent inhabitants of the city. Amonw these, the principal is Wynard's, or God's House, for the maintenance of twelve poor people; each of whom has a neat habitation, with a small garden annexed, and an allowance of money, both weekly and annually. The founder of this charity was William Wynard, Recorder of Exeter, in the reigns of Henry V. and Henry VI., who bequeathed various lands and hereditaments in the city and county of Devon for its support. The charitable institutions are: 1. The West of England Infirmary, for curing diseases of the eye; 2. Humane Society for the reco- very of drowned people; 3. Lunatic Asylum ; 4. Ly- ing-in Charity; 5. Stranger's Friend Society, for the relief of distressed strangers, &c. ; the Institution for promoting Science, Literature, and other Arts, schools on Bell's and Lancaster's plans, ike. &c. The Bishop of Exeter's palace, on the south-east side of the cathedral, is an ancient and very respect- able building, supposed to have been either built or enlarged by Bishop Courtenay, in the reign of Ed- ward IV. This bisnop's arms, with those of England, and the badge of St. Anthony, are emblazoned over a curious chimney-piece in the hall, and have been preijented to the public in an engraving published by the Society of Antiquaries. The new County House of Correction .it Exeter, completed in 1810, was described by thelate J. Nield, 8iJ TOPOGRAPIIJCAL DESCRIPTION OF Esq. as an extensive and noble structure, being equally admired for the solidity of its construction, the excellence of its masonry, and its handsome ap- pearance, which will remain a lasting honour to the county of Devon. It stands on somewhat more than an acre and a iialf of ground, and is situate in a field, on a fine eminence adjoining to the county goal. Its foundation was laid near three years since ; and un- derneath is placed a tin plate, with the following in- scription: " The Foundation-stone of this House of Correction was laid by Samuel Frederick Milford, Esq. Chairman of a Committee of Magistrates of the County of Devon, in the presence of the said Com- mittee, on the 22d day of August, in the year 1807. "Geo. Moneypekny, Architect." The prison is encircled by a boundary wall,'twenty- two feet high ; in the front of which is the keeper's lodge, a handsome stone building, rendered very con- spicuous by a noble gate of entrance, sixteen feet high and eight feet wide ; adorned with rustic cinc- tures and arch-stones of uncommon grandeur, adopted from a design of the Earl of Burlington, as executed in the flanks of Burlington-house, Piccadilly. Above the gate is a stone cornice, crowned with a tablet, on which is inscribed : " The House of Correction fob the County of Devon: erected in the year 1809." On passing the lodge, in which are the turnkey's apartments, amply fitted up with every accommoda- tion, a spacious flag-stone pavement leads through a neat shrubbery to the keeper's house, an octagon building, situate in the centre of the prison; on the ground-floor of which are a committee-room for the magistrates, a parlour for the keeper, an otflce-room, and a kitchen; and underneath, in the basement story, are large vaulted apartments for domestic purposes. The House of Correction consists of three wings, DEVONSHIRE. 83 detached from die keeper's house by an area twelve feet wide; each wing containing two prisons totally distinct, so that there are six divisions for as many classes of prisoners, witli a spacious court-yard ap- propriated to each, surrounded by wrought-iron rail- ing, six feet higli, which prevents access to the boun- dary-wall, and preserves a free communication of twelve feet in breadth betwixt the wall and the court- yards. The entrances to all the court-yards and prison apartments open from the area round the keeper's house, through wrought-iron grated gates opposite the several windows of his apartments. There are also iron-grated apertures in the arcades of the ground-floor, which open into the area; so that the whole prison is completely inspected, and the different classes attended to, without the necessity of passing or entering the court-yards; the keeper, from the windows of his own dwelling, having a view into the airing-grounds and work -shops of all the divi- sions. In each court-yard, on the ground floor, are spa- cious vaulted arcades, fitted up as work-shops for light employment^ and in which a number of prisoners are occupied in weaving, picking and sorting wool, beat- ing hemp, cutting bark, &c. Adjoining to the arcade in each division, is a day-room, lighted by two large sash windows, and fitted up with a patent kitchen stove, which answers every purpose of domestic cookery. Between the stone piers that support the vaulted ceilingof the day-rooms, are wooden dressers; and benches of wood are placed round the rooms. The prisoners have access to the day-rooms only during their meals, and for one hour previously to their being locked up. On the first floor of each division, to which the ascent is by stone staircases, are six cells, and on the second floor six others, making in all seventy-two; each seven feet by ten, and ten feet six inches high to B4 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF the eiown of the arch; lighted and ventilated bv iron- grated apertures over the doors, of two feet six inches by one foot, without ghiss. Kach cell is fitted up with one, and some with two wooden bed!>teads, in the form of those used in the Royal Hospital at Haslar, to be used in case of necessity. All tlie cells open into spacious and lofty arcades, guarded by iron rails; and thus a free circulation of air is preserved, which can- not fail to render this priaon always more healthful than it could be with close confined passages, into which the cells and rooms of other prisons too gene- rally open. The floors of all the cells and arcades are paved with large flag-stones, and the cell-doors lined with iron plates. On the upper floor, at the back of the right and left wing, are two rooms, each thirteen feet six inches by ten feet, and ten feet six inches high to the crown of the arch, set apart for taully apprentices. These rooms are lighted by sash windows, and have a fire- place in each ; the floors are paved with flag-stones, and each room is fitted up with wooden bedsteads, in like manner as the cells. On the first floor of the keeper's house is the chapel, an irregular octagon, 38 feet in diameter, and li feet high; hghtcd by eight large sasii windows, and neatly divided by framed partition pews, which are so heightened by crimson blinds, as to prevent the classes seeing each other. The prisoners have a com- munication with the chapel, from the first floor of the arcades, into the different divisions set apart for each class of prisoners, where the^ enter and return, without mixing with, or being in sight of each other. This prison is supplied with fine water from a reservoir (placed on an arcade in the area between the back wing of the prison and the keeper's house), which is filled from a well underneath by an hydraulic pump of excellent contrivance, that is worked by the prisoners every morning. From tiie reservoir, pipes are laid into all the day-rooms of the prison, the DEVONSHIRE. 85 turnke/s lodji,e, and the kitchen of the keeper's liouse ; in each of which rooms, eight in number, is fixed a stone trough, with a pipe and cock. The sewers of this prison are judiciously placed at the ends of the different wings; they are spacious, lofty, well ventilated^ and the vaults are 30 feet deep. All the areas and walks round the prison, and the arcades and day-rooms, are paved with large flag- stones, and the six court-yards with hne gravel. The roofs of the whole building are so constructed as to shelter the walls and the foot-paths round the prison in wet weather. They project five feet beyond the walls, and the soffit of the projection is relieved by cantilivers, in the manner of the early Grecian temples; of which the church of St. Paul, Covent- gardcn, is an example. At the back of the prison, and communicating therewith, is a spacious work-yard, in which are some extensive working-shops, for the purpose of more labourious employment than is carried on im- mediately within the prison ; such as hewing and polishing stone, sawing timber, cutting bark, &c. In tliis work-yard are two sewers and a pump, which affords a supply of very fine water. It is in contemplation to erect an hospital for the use of the Gaol and Bridewell ; which will be a detached building, and contain airy wards for male and female invalids, with hot and cold baths. The rules and regulations for the government of this prison are excellent : their principal tendency is to enforce cleanliness, morality, and habits of indus- try. The greatest stress is also laid on the constant separation of the prisoners into distinct classes, ar- ranged according to the respective nature of their offences; so that the more criminal may no longer corrupt those who have been committed tor slight offences, and thus render them far more depraved than before their Imprisonment; which was inevitably the case in the Old Bridewell. [ 86 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF The cit)' of Exeter has, from time immemorial, possessed considerable municipal privileges. In the rei^n of King John, the corporation paid a fine of 110 marks for a confirmation of their charter. In the reign of Edward I. the burgesses and citizens pleaded, that their city was an ancient demesne, and that they held it in fee-farm of the crown, paying 39/. 15s. 3d. To support this claim, they referred to the charter of Henry III. made to his brother Richard, king of the Romans, whereby they further challenged return of writs, a gallows, pillory, &c. and a fair of four days, besides their weekly markets; which liberties they certified they enjoyed since the time of the Conquest; upon which they were allowed. In the time of Henry V^III. the city was constituted a county of itself. The government of the corporation is vested in a mayor, a recorder, and common council, seven of whom are aldermen and justices of the peace, a town-clerk, under-sheriff, four serjeants-at-mace, and some inferior officers. The mayor has four chaplains, three stewards, and a sword-bearer. Civil causes are tried by the mayor, or his officers, who have cognizance of all pleas, hear all causes between party and party, and determine them with the advice of the recorder, aldermen, and council of the city; but criminal causes and breaches of the peace are deter- mined by the aldermen, who are justices. The corporate bodies in it are thirteen in number, each of them governed by officers annually chosen among themselves ; and their revenues are very con- siderable. — About a mile east of Exeter is Heavitree, formerly called Woneford, the seat of John Baring, Esq. given by Henry I. to Geoffry de Mantleville, warden of the castle of Exeter. In the twenty-seventh of Henry III. it became the property of William Kelly, and it continued in the possession of his de- scendants until 1773, when Arthur Kelly, Esq. sold the manor to Mr. Baring. This place was the birth- place of Richard Hooker, the author of the " Eccle- siastical Politv," and Arthur Duck, the civilian. DEVONSHIIli:. 87 The city of Exeter has sent representatlveji to Parliament from the earhest period of parhamentary liistory. The magistrates, freemen, and resident freeholders, amounting in number to about 1200 per- sons, possess the right of election. Exeter, as a commercial city, supports four news- papers. — 1. Exeter Flying Post; 'i. Exeter Gazette; 3. Western Luminary ; 4. The Alfred : and the time of the post setting out is regulated as follows : The post sets out for London, and every place beyond that city, every morning at half past four o'clock, Saturday excepted. The post sets out for every stage eastward, except London, every morning at half past four o'clock. The post sets out for Bath, Bristol, Manchester, all Wales, and every other stage north-east frora Exeter, every morning at three o'clock. The post sets out for Plymouth, Dartmouth, and every stage to the south-west of Exeter, every morn- ing at one o'clock. The post sets out for Barnstaple, Bideford, Tor- rington, Stratton, and every place north-west of Exeter, every night at twelve o'clock. The post sets out for Falmouth, and every stage to the west of Exeter, every morning at one o'clock. The post sets out for Topsham, Exmouth, Sidford, Sidmouth, Otterton, and Colyton, every morning at one o'clock. N. B. Letters for all parts of the kingdom must be put into the post-office before nine o'clock in the evening. There also are several literary societies, and many excellent libraries, open to the public. Assemblies and balls are frequent and well attended, and the various watering-places and tea-gardens in the neigh- bourhood, contribute towards the amusement and general entertainment of the inhabitants of the city of Exeter. On the north side of the city, behind the county Sessions-house, is a most beautiful promenade, called 12 8ij TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF tlie NorthenihaY, very justly llie pride of the citizens, and the admiration of strangers. On Southernhay is the Devon and Exeter Hospital, a spacious build - iny^, erected in tlse year 1741, and since supported by voluntary subscriptions In 1801 an asylum for lunatics was built under the patronage of characters of the first respectability in the parish of St. Thomas. The city has two market-days, on Wednesday and Friday, the last of which is the largest; and four fairs — the principal is that called Lammas, held in the beginning of August : the charter for the same is perpetuated by a glove of immense size, stuffed and carried through the city on a pole, attended with music, and afterwards placed on the top of the Guild- hall, when the fair commences, which lasts two days, and on taking down the glove, the fair terminates. Exeter has long been famous for the woollen trade in serges, druggets, duroys, kerseys, and everlast- ings, which being bought in a rough state by the traders of Exeter, are here dyed and linished for home consumption and exportation. Before the late war, Spain was the principal market for many of these articles; but though this and other foreign markets have declined, the East India Company are still said to purchase long ells to the amount of about 100,000/. yearly ; and a cotton manufactory, on tiie banks of the Exe, at one time employed 300 persons. The ground enclosed within the wall is nearly in the form of a parallelogram, four furlongs in length, and three in breadth. The streets and houses, parti- cularly in the High-street, have an appearance of antiquity. Besides the cathedral, the buildings most wortliy of notice, are the bishop's palace, the new gaol, the barracks, the circus, the theatre, and tlie county hospital. The new bridge over the Exe, at the west entrance of the city, is very handsomely built of stone, at the expence of nearly 20,000/. owing to the difficulty fincountered in the rapidity of the stream. Vessels of DEVONSHIRE. 89 large burthen lie at Topsham; but by means of a canal, small craft can convey their cargoes to Exeter, and unload at the quay, which is very spacious, having on it the Custom-house, and other necessary buildings. The flour-mill on the leat near Exeter quay is a singular construction : it was erected by Mr. Abra- ham Richardson of that city, and for beauty and strength, is said to surpass any other in the west of England. The principal wheel is twelve feet in diameter, which, together with the fall underneath it, and all the other wheels and shafts, is composed of cast-iron, weighing upwards of six tons, and is capable of working four pair of stones, even at high water, when no other mill on the leat can work. An establishment similar to the Apothecaries'-hall of London has been opened in this city, for the be- nefit of the public at large, under the direction of some respectable professional men. In the summer of 1822, the Commissioners for the improvement of Exeter, had plans in agitation to take down Broadgate, and widen the avenue, by the re- moval of the houses on each side ; however, as their funds would not admit of laying out more than 700/., it was agreed, that at their next meeting, they should examine a plan for removing the houses on the right hand leading in from Fore-street, and for taking down the gate. The Dean and Chapter gave their con- sent, but declined contributing to the expeiice. Exeter was first lighted with gas in the year 1817. The most remarkable vestige of the conventual buildings is a crypt with massive Saxon arches in Mint-lane,, which has been converted into a kitchen, now in the occupation of Mr. William Baker. The Roman Catholic Chapel built in 1792, and the Rev. Mr. Oliver's house, stand on part of the site of some of these buildings. The Episcopal charity schools in Exeter are open to the children of all the Exeter parishes. In four of these, 250 children are educated ; the boys in reading, 13 90 TOPOGRAPHJCAL DESCRIPTION OF writing, and arithmetic ; the girls in reading, sewing, and knitting. A handsome school-house for this charity has lately been built in the parish of St. Paul, and opened at Midsummer 1818. A diocesan central school had been opened in 1812, on Dr. Bell's system. Besides these there are two supported by Dissenters. In one of these, in the out parish of St. Sidwell, sixty children, boys and girls, are educated and clothed. In a Sunday-school there are about 150 children of both sexes. The hospital for the sick, lame, and wounded persons, originally founded in 1741, now contains 140 beds. In the year 1819 a Female Penitentiary was esta- blished in this city. A Devon and Exeter Institution for the promotion of science, literature, and the arts, was established at Exeter in 1813, by some gentlemen of the city and its neighbourhood. A handsome building has been fitted up for the purpose with two spacious libraries, galleries for a Museum, and reading-rooms. Here is an extensive herbarium of British plants, and a fine collection of Devonshire mosses. At the Hotel in the close is an assembly-room, which was the only one for such uses before the year 1820, when a spacious handsome room for concerts was built near the New London Inn. The theatre, with a handsome stone front, stands between Bedford-crescent and Southernhay : this build- ing, excepting the front, was destroyed by fire in 1820, but has since been rebuilt. The barrow on Haldown is known to the country round, by the appellation of the great stone-heap, which, though originally of a conical form, as are all the tumuli in these parts, being now intersected by an opening made in 1780, affords a singular and conspicuous object to the subjacent country. The form of this barrow was nearly circular, being more than 200 feet in circumference, and in height about 15. By the aid of 14 men, a passage into it was effected almost due east, about eight feet wide. At 1)LV0NSH111E. 91 nearly the same space from the margin was disco- vered a dry wall about two t'eet high; which was se- parated from without, by very large stones in the form of piers or buttresses. On arriving near the centre, a great many huge stones (all of them flint) were seen placed over one another, in a convex man- ner ; and in the centre, a larger stone, nearly globu- lar, two feet in diameter, covering a cell on the ground two feet square, which was formed by four stones of considerable size, placed upright on their edges. In this cave, or Kitvaen, the urn was found inverted^ containing the ashes and the burnt bones of a youth, as was probable from their being small, and with little muscular impression. When the urii was removed, these appeared as white as snow, but lost that whiteness soon after they were exposed to the air. These were supposed to have been the re- mains of a person of dignity, whose surviving friends, in lionour to his memory, had taken care to have them well burnt and blanched by the intenseness of the fire. The bones remaining half burnt, was consi- dered by the Greeks as the highest disgrace that could be offered to the dead body. Haldon-house, the seat of Sir Lawrence Palk, Bart, is situated at the north-western extremity of the Vale of Kenn, about four miles and a half south of Exeter, in the midst of a demesne of 450 acres. The house stands on an elevated situation, commanding from its principal front an extensive and beautiful view, comprehending the Vale of Kenn, the Belvidere, and the Powderham Plantations, &c. on the south-east, and on the Exe, Woodsbury-hill, Sidmouth-hill, and many other places. The house was built by Sir George Chudleigh, Bart., about the year 1785, and at length by purchase became the property of the late Sir Robert Palk. There are .several good paintings at this house, chiefly landscapes, and a library containing some very valuable manuscripts, relating wholly to the history of 92 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF Devonshire, and a cabinet of curious medals, from the late Dr. Trapp's collection. The grounds are beautifully laid out, and amidst the flourishing plantations which cover Haldon-hill to the west and south, there is a castellated building of three stories, dedicated by the above-mentioned Sir Robert Palk to the memory of his friend Gene- ral Lawrence, whose services in India were so valua- ble to his country. A statue of the general, as large as life, on a pedestal of black marble, is placed at the entrance. From the top of this hill, which is 818 feet above the level of the sea, towards the left, is a fine view of Exeter, Topsham, Lympstone, and Exraouth. On the right bank of the Exe may be seen Powderham- castle, George Clack, Esq.; beyond it, the woods of the Right Hon. Sir George Hewett, Bart., at Mam- head. Here is also a view of Mount Radford, H. Porter, Esq. ; andof Nutweil-court, SirT.T. Fuller Elliott Drake, Bart.; High Torr Rocks, Oxton- house, 6cc. The southern extremity of this town, called the Strand, is by far the most pleasant : here the river flows within a short distance from the houses, which are chiefly occupied by persons of distinction. The prospect here is highly interesting, embracing a range of mountains, distant shipping, a beautifully verdant vale, and churches occasionally glimmering through woods, crowded with majestic timber. Topsham, in 1821, contained 567 houses, and 3156 inhabitants. Just beyond the five-mile stone on the left hand, is Ebford-house, the residence of T. H. Lee, Esq. ; and on the summit of the hill, a little further on, that of Sir Digory Forest, having a fine view of the ocean and the country south-west to a considerable dis- tance. About seven miles onward to the right, on the banks of the Exe, is the noble mansion of Major Drake, lately belonging to Lord Heathfield : a mo- DEVONSHIRE. 93 dern built house, about three quarters of a mile from the road, iVom wijich it is entirely concealed : con- tiguous to it are some remains of the old buildin f5J which formerly belonged to Sir Francis Drake. The extensive stables were built by Lord Heathfield, for propagating n breed of the linest Arabian horses in Great Britain. Between Topshnm and Exrnouth is the village of Lympstone, anciently called Leningston, pleasantly situated on the eastern border of the river Exe. The church at the end of the village, forms, with the surrounding scenery, a very picturesque object. This building was erected on the site of the old church in 1409. About two miles from hence is Exmouth, for- merly an inconsiderable fishing-town, now become one of the most flourishing watering-places in the kingdom, amply affording all sorts of accommodations and conveniences to its visitors. Exmouth is the oldest watering-place in Devon- shire, and the commodious houses on the Beacon command one of the finest views in the kingdom. The Beacon houses, with those in Bicton-place, and the lower parts of the town, are sheltered from the north and south-east winds; and the heights of Hal- don preserve Exmouth from that unpleasant humi- dity of atmosphere too prevalent in some parts of South Devon. The soil round Exrnouth is dry, and the temperature of the air so mild, that winter sel- dom begins till after Christmas, or continues longer than six weeks. The climate here is looked upon to be something like that of Pisa in Italy, in befriend- ing weak lungs. But what adds more perhaps to the beauty of the prospect than any other circumstance, is a sun which seems to shine brighter and longer than in most parts of England, especially towards evening, when the sky frequently assumes an Italian lustre. On the left, in the approach from Exeter to Exmouth, there is a sheltered valley extending nearly two miles, pro- 94 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF tected on all sides from the winds, and affording a salutary retreat to invalids, particularly the con- sumptive. At the entrance stands Marpool-hall, be- longing to T. W. Hull, Esq. Exmouth is not so much exposed to the piercing winds of March, as Teignmouth, Davvlish, Sidraouth, and some other parts of Greap Britain. Even the night air at Exmouth is dry and warm ; and the bar breaks the force of the waves so considerably, that boats which do not attempt passing beyond it, may row in safety even during winter. Another circum- stance of great importance to invalids, is the excellent medical aid which may always be procured at Exmouth, from its vicinity to Exeter, besides that of a resident physician. With respect to walks, nothing can be pleasanter than the sands after spring-tides, and the cliff-fields in fine weather. During winter the rock-walk, made and kept up at the expence of the public, is always dry, and generally speaking warm : but besides these walks, there is on the Beacon a delightful terrace made some years since by Lord RoUe, to whom the manor of Exmouth belongs, who also embellished the cliffs and plantations, and the square, with a large garden abounding in choice shrubs and flowers. The markets on Wednesday and Saturday are well sup- plied with meat; fish, poultry, and vegetables also abound. The hotels at Exmouth, are the Globe and the London ; and at both of these a stage-coach may be had, that goes to and returns from Exeter three or four times a week. Manchester-house is let on the same terms as the lodging-houses, and contains good apartments; but linen and plate, lodgers are always expected to find themselves : yet even these may be hired without difficulty. Even sedan-chairs, bath-chairs, double horses and donkies, are kept for the accommodation of lodgers. Besides a billiard- room, here are two circulating libraries, and a reading- room at the Globe. The bathing-machines are placed within the bar, and so much protected, that DEVONSHIRE. 95 ladies may batlje almost every day in the year. Here is also a commodious warm sea-bath and a shower- bath. Messrs. Black and Rowe, surgeons and apothe- caries, have a commodious warm sea-bath ; and Mr. Land has a shower-bath, in addition to a se.i-bath. Among the improvements is the continuation of Bicton-place, to the entrance from the Budleigh- road, and the new Gothic church opposite the highest part of the street, erected at the sole expence of Lord Rolle. The ferry over the Exe may be crossed at all times, except in a hard gale of wind, and carriages are seldom impeded by this more than a fevv hours. The excursion from Exmouth by water to Powder- ham-castle, is a delightful row of about an hour and a half. To Mamhead is about six or seven miles ; and to Ugbrook, Lord Clifford's seat, about ten. The distance from Exmouth to Sidmouth, by the summer road, is twelve miles, and by the winter road, fourteen. Opposite Exmouth is the Warren, a large sandy tract, apparently thrown up by the sea. Near the Warren is Star Cross, a village which ex- tends along the banks of the Exe, and contains several good houses. Between Exmouth and Sidmouth is Littleham, a small fishing-town, formerly part of the possessions of the Abbey of Sherbourne. Littleham-church is distinguished by a small stone cross rising from the apex of the roof over the eastern window, and a small embattled tower. Here are no monuments of any particular note. Tidwell is a village in the parish of Budleigh, an- ciently belonging to the family of St. Cleere, wlio had a noble mansion here. Next to Tidwell is Budleigh, anciently Bodley ; the small market here kept on Mon- day, was formerly held on Sunday. The church, dedi- cated to All Saints, is a handsome stone building with a square tower eighty feet high, with a clock, and five bells. There is also a small Dissenting cliapel. Hoys, 96 lOI'OGRAPHItAL DE.sCRIPIION OF ill this parisli, is celebrated as the birth-phice of the famous Sir Walter Haleigh. Budleigh Salterton, about mid-way between Sid- mouth and Exmouth, is a retired watering-place, and is indebted to Lord Ilolle for a small Episcopal chapel, and to the late well-known Mr. Lackington the book- seller, for a neat chapel for the Wesleyan Methodists. Having pus;.cd the river Otter, and Otterton, a small fishing-town, without noticing any thing of import- ance, we oljserve Sid mouth, distant from Otterton three miles; from Salterton seven ; t'roni Exmouth ten; from Top^ham twelve; from Exeter fifteen ; from St. iMary Ottery seven; from Harpford four; from Ho- niton nine; from Colyton nine; from Seaton ten; from Beer seven; from Branscombe tive; from Salcombe two; from Axminster fifteen; from Lyme sixteen; and from Charmouth eighteen. Sidmouth,of late years become a fashionable water- ing-place, is about 159 miles from London, situated between two romantic Alpine hills at the mouth of the little river Sid, in a bay between Exmouth and Lyme Hegis. It has a bold open shore, and many of its newest houses are ranged upon the beach, which is defended from the attacks of the ocean by a natural rampart of pebbles rising in four or five successive stages from the surface of the sea at low water. With every tide, the exterior parts of this shifting wall assuoae a dilTerent situation; are sunk either higher or lower, are driven to the east or the west, according to the strength or direction of the wind. At low water considerable spaces of fine hard sand are visible; these afford a pleasant walk, but are frequently interrupted by collections of stones, and streams that find their way through the pebbles to their parent ocean : in dry weather, however, these streams are very inconsider- able. At the head of this shingly rampart, a broad and commodious walk, called the Bfeach, furnishes a delightful promenade. It is nearly a third of a mile in length, is kept well rolled, and furnished at the tixtremitics and bouie other parts with convenient DEVONSHIRE. 97 double seats, from which either the land or the sea may be contemphtted with every advantage. Close to the walk, and about the middle of it, is a tolerably spacious covered retreat, called The Shed, in which, as it is benched all round, and open only to the sea, a most striking view of that sublime object may at all times be obtained. Large parties are frequently chatting in this recess; and the weak invalid here finds a spot in which, defended from every wind but the salubrious south, he can inhale those breezes, which so frequently suspend the ravage of disease, pour fresh oil into the lamp of life, and send him back a reno- vated being. " As a watering-place," says the author of Sidmouth Scenery, (a descriptive sketch of the place, published, with numerous engravings, by J. VVallis at the Marine Library), " Sidmouth, in its natural advantages, yields to none, and exceeds many of those retreats of Hygeia^ which utility and fashion have found out, on almost all the coasts of our island; an air mild and salubrious; a soil uncommonly fertile; the purest water continually flowing; and a situation defended from every wind but the south, give it a pre-eminence over most of those places on our coasts, which are now so generally re- sorted to, both for health and amusement." The number of houses in Sidmouth is about 480 ; and, according to the census taken by order of Parlia- ment in 1821, the number of inhabitants were 2747. Sidmonth is tlie winter residence of many invalids; Dr. Matthews is the resident physician, with several experienced and able surgeons and apothecaries. There are three capital inns here — The London, the New Inn, and the York Hotel. The assembly and card-rooms are at the London Inn, and are large, and well fitted up. The rooms are opened for cards every night, and during the season, there is a hall every Wednesday. The New Inn is upon a smaller scale than the other two. At the London Inn and the York Hotel, post- chaises are to be had. Wines, porter, and liouors of K 08 TOPOGIIAPHICAL DESCRIPTIOJI OF all sorts are to be had, not only at the inns, but at several vaults, and shops in the town. Provisions are plentiful and good, and the supply, except in the article offish, very regular. Saturdays and Tuesdays are the market-days, but butchers reside in the town ; and poultry, eggs, &c. are brought by the country people to the doors of the inhabitants. Vegetables and fruit are furnished by the gardeners of the place. Lodgings are numerous, scattered in every part of the town and its vicinity ; but various in price and ac- commodations. The York Hotel, the two public libraries, Wallis's and Marsh's, the billiard-room, and two sets of ex- cellent warm and cold baths, are all upon the beach, at the western end of which are the bathing-machines, and an excellent spot for those bathers who do not choose to make use of them. Two or three gentlemen in the commission of the peace, are residents, and, on the Jirst Monday in every month, a justice's meeting is held at the London Inn. There is, also, an association for the protection of pro- perty against poachers, and other depredators. There are two fairs in the year, one on Easter Monday, and the other, which is the principal, on the third Monday in September: neither of them are fairs of business. A very excellent course for horse-racing lias been recently formed upon Salcombe-hill, the eastern boundary of Sidniouth, and raci^s are held upon it, in the month of August. The post-office is in Fore-street. The letters are delivered every morning about nine o'clock. Letters must be put into the othce by half after six in the evening; by paying a penny, however, with each letter, they are received till seven o'clock, when the bag is closed. A coach runs daily to and from Honiton ; it leaves Sidmouth in time to meet, at Honiton, the Bath and London coaches; it leaves Honiton every evening at half past six, and arrives at Sidmouth between eight and nine. A coach runs to and from Exeter, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday ; it leaves Sidmouth at seveij DEVONSHIRE. 99 in the morning, and returns before nine in the evening. On the same days there are two carriers, to and from Exeter. PJeasure-boats, sedan, and Bath-chairs, horses, gigs, and donkies, are all to be had upon reasonable terms. At both the libraries, the oldest of which is Wallis's, several London and provincial newspapers, as well as reviews and magazines, are taken in, and an extensive assortment of books, trinkets, and fancy articles, are constantly on sale. At Marsh's library there is also a new handsome'iassembly-room. Except the billiard, card, and assembly-rooms, Sid- mouth has no place of public amusement. A theatre has been twice attempted, but has in both cases failed. The last effort was made in the autumn of 1813. The church, supposed to be about 400 years old, is a neat edifice, with a handsome tower, a clock, and five bells : it is well pewed, has a newly erected con- venient gallery, an organ, and several mural monuments. There are also two Dissenting meetings ; the old one belonging to the Unitarians, and one erected for the Calvinists; at the latter place a Sunday-school is sup- ported. A school, which has a commodious school- house, was instituted in 1812 for educating poor children, according to Dr. Bell's plan. In 1814 a Bible Society was formed at Sidmouth; these have now become common almost in every town and village in the county. In 1815 The Humane^ or Poors' Friend Society, was instituted. Among the number of single houses tliat embellish the vicinity of Sidmouth, are those of Emmanuel Baruh Lousada, and George Cornish, Esqrs.: the former is a neat object on the western declivity, and the latter is equally interesting on the eastern slope. From the grounds of Peck-house the spectator has a fine view of the ocean, the white cliffs of Charmouth and Bridport, and the bold promontory of Portland; and from Salcombe-hill an excellent nearer view of the town, the little bay in which it is secluded, the ' K2 100 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESClilPTlON OF deep-ribbed side of the high peak, the western wing of the ever memorable Torbay, and the Start-point, which appears phinging into the distant waves, and beginning tlie line of demarcation betwixt the sky and the land. The most extensive land view is to be had from the eastern or Salcorabe-hill, the eye taking in a distance of forty miles, and resting its farthest ken upon the most elevated points of Dartmoor. To this eastern hill, which rises abruptly from the river, there is a walk which, to overcome the steepness of the ascent, takes a zigzag form with rery acute angles. At its foot a bridge is thrown across the river, which brings the passenger very near the beach. This path has altogether a Swiss-like, Alpine appearance. On the highest part of the Peak, which is the name of the western hili, is the signal-house erected during the late war, and which appears to the spectator below like an eagle's nest perched upon a rock. This, since the peace, has of course been shut up. The Fort-field is so called from a little fort w ith a flag-staff, and mounted with four piecesof cannon, which command the beach and the bay. In the rocks and lanes about Sidmouth the naturalist may find materials for study and amusement; the botanist may cull his plants, and the collector of fossils, find many of the curious internal productions of the earth. Beautiful photens are here to be met with, and the stones of the cliffs often abound with echitia marines, petrified coral, and other similar pro- ductions. The cornu ammonis is to be found here of all sizes; and a person in the town has one in the common rounded form of an embellished metallic ap- pearance about eighteen inches in diameter, which he found in the cliffs near Portland. In the little basins worn by the waves in the rocks, elegant corallines abound; and not unfrequently that singular production of nature, the animal flower, commonly called the sea- anemone. Salcombe, or the salt vale, now called Salccjmbe Regis, is a small parish, the lofty hill of which forms ^ DEVONSHIRE. 101 the eastern boundary of Sidmoutli. Several newly erected houses lie in and near Sid or Seed-lane, through which the road passes from Sidmouth to Lyme Knowl, the property and residence of the Wool- cots, and Stade-house, belonging to W. Leigh, Esq. are among the older mansions of this parish. The church is an ancient and small structure. Branscombe lies on the east of Salcombe. The lofty hills which defend this parish from the sea, are in many parts paralleled at a small distance by inland hills, abounding with orchards, hanging woods, and enclosures covered with grass and grain. About the middle of this peaceful Tempe stands Branscombe- church, the tinkling bell of which, when it floats through the vale, suggests the idea of some lonely convent, that at stated periods calls the scattered in- habitants of an Alpine village to their unostentatious devotions. Ty^ree vaUies, forming an irregular triangle, meet near the church. Through each of these vallies rapid streams descend, which, uniting in the bottom, flow on together to the ocean. Weston-house, be- longing to J. Bartlet Stuckey, Esq. was built by the late John Stuckey, Esq., and stands near Weston- mouth, but has no view of the sea. Branscombe- church, which is larger than St. Peter's at Salcombe, is dedicated to St. Winifred, who is supposed to have been a native of Devonshire. Beer is a small place, lying between very steep hills, about a mile from Seaton. Jt possesses a free- stone quarry, from which many of its houses are built. The cove has very deep water, and from its situation, is capable of forming a very secure harbour. Great quantities of fish are caught and brought in here, but much the larger portion of them is sent off" by contract, to the markets of Bath and Taunton, and some even to London. Bovei/f a very ancient seat in this parish, was the inheritance of the Walronds of Bradfield, near Col- lumpton; it is a very old, irregular building of free- stone, and is now the property of Lady Rolle, the K 3 102 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF only surviving daughter of the late Wiliiam Wah'ond, Esq. The parish-church is dedicated to St. Gregory. It is an ancient free-stone building, with a slated roof, and a low tower, containing four bells. In this parish there is a Dissenting chapel. On an eminence called South Doicn, is a most delightful and extensive pros- pect, by sea, from Portland to the Start Point, and by land, of a great part of the counties of Devon, Dorset, and Somerset. S EATON is a small town, " Iyi»g full upon tlje sea/' irregularly built, and consisting chiefly of one street. Its situation is low and marshy; the hedges are well wooded, and the roads, though narrow, are goofi, and afford very pleasant walks and rides. Its compa- ratively retired situation renders it acceptable to many invalids : the main public walk is, like that at Sidmouth, the beach. CoLYTON, about a mile to the north of Coi.yfokd, a small village, through which runs the turnpike-road from Sidmouth to Lyme, is a small market-town, on the western side of the river Colij, where it falls into the Axe. It is a compact little place, has a good niarket-house, a school-house, a neat Presbyterian chapel, and a new one, erected a few years ago, by tiie Calvinistic Dissenters. The church, dedicated to St. Andrew, is a large, handsome structure. The tower, which is octagonal, upon a square base, con- tains six bells. The burial-place of the De-la-Poles, vs'hich is highly ornamented, is on the south side of the chancel, and on the north, is a burial-place, the property of Sir George Yonge's family. Captain Wilson, the discoverer of the Felew Islands, is buried in this church. SiiUTE is a small parish, on the western side of the i\xe. It contains the small village of Whilford, and I^ezv Shute-house, a noble mansion, the residence of Sir William De-la-Pole. It is a fme stone building, delightfully 5:ituated on Shute-hill, and about four miles from the sea. The church of Shute is dedicated DEvoxsHrni:. lO*- to St. Peter; it is a small stone edifice, and contains several monuments belonging to the De-la-Poles and Tern piers. At a small distance from Colyford-bridge, on the right hand of the road, going towards Lyme, is Sted- comhe, the charmingly situated residence of the Rev. Mr. Hallet. The usual road fromSidmouth to Exeter, leaving the village o^ Harpfurd on the right hand, lies through Newton Poppleford, and St. Mary Clyst. St. Mary Ottery is three miles beyond Harpford. The zcood, which takes its name from this place, is greatly and deservedly admired, and is the object of many an excursion from the country round it. The church, a small low building, with a tower and three bells, is dedicated to St. Gregory. The Otter is here crossed by an old stone bridge of five arches, near which stands the factory, erected some years ago, for the spinning of wool; it is a neat white building, and beautifully situated. Newton Poppleford consists of one long, mean- looking street, in which there are two public-houses dignifjed with the name of inns. About the middle of the place is a small chapel, lately repaired, dedicated to St. Luke. At a little distance, the Calvinistic Dis- senters have a small meeting-house called Providence Chapel, at which the minister from Sidmoulh officiates on the Sunday afternoon. St. Mary Clyst stands upon the river Grindle. The valley through which this stream runs is very flat, and the length of the bridge, which is narrow, is a proof of the extent to which the nieadows are some- times inundated on each side. Cli/st-house is a large, square, white building, stand- ing in a lawn of about sixty acres. The church of Clyst is an ancient edifice. Between Sidmouth and Exmouth lie the following places : Otterton, Bicton, Woodbury Budleigh, Bud' leigh SaltertOTif and Littleham. Otterton and Bicton are very plainly to be seen from Peak-hill. Bicton, a tine park, in which are a great number of 104 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF large and venerable trees, particularly oaks and beeches, is the property and residence of Lord Rulle, who, a few years ago, completed in it a noble mansion, in which are some excellent statues and paintings. The church of Bicton, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, is thus described by PoUvhele : " It is a small,' but neat building. Its situation is most romantic. Placed in silence and solitude, it stands embowered amidst the iine deep foliage of forest trees that surround it at a little distance, and interweave their branches, as if to secure it from every prying eye.'' WooDriUKY, so called from the woods which an- ciently grew upon it, is a parish with eight small villages: the principal, denominated Church Village, lies nearly in the centre of the parish, and has a church built in 1409, and dedicated to St. Swithin. Here, about a mile and a half from the road, is Nutu-ell-cou)'t, Sir Thomas Trayton Fuller Elliott Drake, Bart. This was formerly a castle, but con- verted into a dwelling-house in the time of Edward IV. The last possessor rebuilt this mansion on an enlarged scale, and at a great expence. The plantations also have been considerably extended. Woodbury-castle stands on the edge of a very high hill, and is deeply entrenched. SiDFORD, and Sidblrv, arc the only places through which the road from Sidmouth to Honiton passes, and perhaps no portion of road in the kingdom exceeds in richness and beauty the new cut from Gittisham- liill, by which tlie old, steep, and zigzag descent at Pin-hill is completely avoided. Sidford is a small place, lying two miles from Sidmouth, and exactly mid-v.-ay between Exeter and Lyme. SiDBURY, in which several new houses have been lately erected, including a residence for the parish minister, is, upon the whole, but a mean-looking place. It has an ancient stone bridge of one arch over the Sid, and two places of worship, a church, and a Dis- senting meeting-house. Both are situated near Court' hall, the old manor-house. The church is dedicated DEVONSHIRE. 105 to St. Giles. A little way beyond Sidbury, towards Honiton, is Cot€sfo?-d-house, the pleasant residence of Joseph Jenkins, Esq.; and under the end of Castle- hill, is the house of VV. Guppy, Esq. which commands h. wonderfully fine and extensive prospect of Sidmouth and its vicinity. Both at Sidbury and Sidford, and indeed in all the neighbourhood, for many miles about, great quantities of thread-lace are made, some of which is extremely fine and beautiful. But after all it has been remarked, as a melancholy consideration, that so much comfort and health are sacrificed in producing these trifling articles of decoration. The sedentary nature of this employment, and the early age of the poor children confined to it, make a terrible havoc of life and health. The sallow complexions, the rickety frames, and the general appearance of languor and debility, are sad and decisive proofs of the pernicious nature of the employment. The small unwholesome rooms in which numbers of these females, especially during their apprenticeship, are crowded together, are great aggravations of this evil. It is no wonder that the offspring of such mothers, in a majority of in- stances, are a puny, feeble, and frequently a short- lived race. The confinement of the children, ten hours a-day, is too rigid; and even then, if they had not completed their task, they were not released, but de- prived of the little time in which they should have been regaining the use of their cramped limbs. Another hardship, in the case of the Devonshire lace-makers, is the manner in which they have been generally paid for their labour. Their employers, who keep huckster's shops, obliged them to purchase what- ever they deal in, and frequently articles they did not want; and if money was insisted upon, a penny has been unfeelingly and unjustly deducted out of a siiilling. Approaching Honiton, the pretty village of Gittis- ham opens on tlie left hand, and soon after, the rich, extensive, and highly cultivated vale is fully developed. The white church of Up-Ottery is n principal feature 106 TOPOGRAPHICAL DFSCRIPTION OF in the distance, and several large and handsome single houses are scattered over the sylvan and verdant scenes, stretching on one side to the borders of Somer- setsliire, and on the left hand to Exeter. From one of the clumps of firs that ornament the broad back of Gittisham-hili, just before the road descends, on the Honiton side of the hill, we gain a view of the town stretching itself in the vale below, and apparently running away from its church. The situation of Honiton is delightful; it is surrounded with line arable and pasture lands. The river Otter that runs near it is but small, but its windings enrich the landscape. Honiton consists principally of one long street, running east and west, well paved with broad flag-stones, and a stream of fine clear water runs through the town, \vith dipping-places at every door. The middle of the street was too long encumbered with shambles for the sale of meat and vegetables. The parish church being so inconveniently situated, in 1743, a plain handsome stone edifice was built as a chapel of ease, and besides this there are two Dissenting meeting-houses. A charity-school was opened here in 1713; and a small hospital stands upon the Exeter road, about a quarter of a mile from the town, which with a chapel, was founded and endowed for four lepers, by one Thomas Chard, an abbot. By a re- gulation made in 1642, other poor persons, as well as lepers, were admitted. Honiton has suflfered considerably by fires; in 1747 three-fourths of the town were consumed. In 1765 and 1797 also terrible fires took place : hence several substantial houses erected by the Phoenix Fire-office add to the beauty of the town, and prove the utility of such establishments. The principal inns are the Dolphin, and the Golden Lion. Four miles distant from Honiton is Wolford-lodge, Mrs. Simcoe, situated on the south side of a lofty range of hills commanding some beautiful prospects ; and near it, on a projecting hill, is a large triple en- DEVONSHIRE. 107 trenchment, called Hembury-fort, supposed to have been a Roman fortification. Proceeding from Honiton towards Monk ton, the small church here seems nearly surrounded with firs, and stands close by the road-side and near a cottage ; here the road begins to be narrow and secluded. Luppit is a little hamlet, which also lies on the left hand ; here is a small Dissenting place of worship, over which Dr. William Harris, well known as a biographer, presided many years. His Lives are written in the manner of Bayle, and have this peculiarity, viz. that the notes are considerably more bulky than the text. As books of reference, such works are very useful; every assertion is established by its proper authorities, and a great number of anecdotes are generally intro- duced, which an historian, writing in the common way, would omit. Dr. Harris in this manner wrote Memoirs of James T., Charles I., Oliver Cromwell, Hugh Peters, and Charles H. From Luppit, the road rises all the way to the little village of Up-Otiery, A neat church and a good inn are ornament and accommodation to this little place, further distinguished by a neat farm-house and estate belonging to Lord Sidmouth. From Up-Ottery, the road still continues to ascend; and at length gaining a level, winds round the arti- ficial and upper base of a considerable hill. Some dilapidated walls, and firs planted in an avenue form, indicate the relics of departed greatness; and a rude cottage or two are the only habitations on the spot. After a descent of some length, the road again rises and leads to the extensive level, across which the boundary line between Devonshire and Somersetshire is drawn, called Blackdown. This name indicates the general sterility of this extensive and elevated com- mon, over which a considerable num.ber of small sheep are scattered. Returning to Exeter, we shall make from thence our intended excursion to Teignraouth. Four miles from Exeter, nearly opposite Topshara, 103 TOPOGUAPIIICAL DESCKIPTION OF is Exminster, a very pleasant village on the west of the river Exe. Leland, in the reign of Henry VIII. noticed it as a very pretty little town. The Courtenays, Earls of Devon, had once a very extensive mansion here. Povvderham-castle, three miles from hence, is sup- posed to have been built by Isabella de Fortibus, the lust descendant of the great family of Rivers. She died in the reign of Edward the First. The modern mansion, a few years since the resi- dence of Lord Courtenay, is now the seat of George Ciacke, Esq. It contains some very spacious apart- ments, furnished in the most sumptuous manner, and decorated with paintings of consideraVile merit. The park and plantations are about ten miles in circum- ference, and contain a variety of tine shrubs and ma- jestic forest trees. On the summit of the highest ground is the triangular tower, called the Behidere, whh hexagonal ornaments at each corner. The pros- pects from hence are extremely grand, embracing among others, complete views of Topsham with its shipping; the river Exe, winding from the sea up to Exeter; the ornamented heights of Woodbury-hill, the village of Lympstone, the hills on Dartmoor, Exeter with its cathedral, and a large tract of fertile country, interspersed with several beautiful seals. The tower itself is also a conspicuous object from the British Channel. One mile to the west of Powderham-castle is Kenton, a small village; the manor of which has a curious custom— that if the issue of any of the tenants hold their tenements, one after another, three de- scents, they may claim the inheritance of the tenement. The church of Kenton is a handsome building of red stone, with a tower iOO feet high. The interior is ornamented with various antique caned work and rude painting. , About a mile from Kenton is Oxton-house, the scat of the Rev. Jolin Swete. The house stands upon an eminence, at the junction of thice narrow \ allies, with DEVOKSHIRI:. 109 lialdon-liill behind. This delightfully sequestered mansion is rendered peculiarly picturesque and inte- resting by the extensive ornamented grounds around it, and the beautiful prospects from various parts of the estate. About two miles south-west from Kenton is Mam- head, formerly the seat of Wilmot Lord Lisburne, de- serving particular notice, as one of the most beautiful and otiiamental places in the county. The mansion was begun to be built by Sir Peter Balle, an eminent hjyalist, who died in 1680. The late Lord Lisburne, upon coming into possession of this estate, commenced apian of very extensive improvements, which has been carried into etiect with the happiest success. The obelisk, which stands on Mamhead Point, is built of PortUmd stone, and is about 100 feet in height. The plantations at Mamhead are some of the finest in the county, and contain a great variety of fine trees: many were brought from the shores of the Mediter- ranean by Mr. Balle. These plantations extend to the summits of lialdovvn. In the parish of Mamhead there is an estate and mansion called Newhouse ; formerly a considerable seat, but long left to decay, through the unfortunate situation of the proprietor, under mental derangement. Mamhead is now the seat of the Right Hon. Sir George Hewett, Bart. The house stands on a fine lawn, whose smooth verdure is relieved by clumps of trees and shrubs judiciously disposed. The woods and plantations are numerous and extensive, and include various beautiful prospects of sea, river, and country. Towards Haldon, the fine forest trees are crowned by the noble obelisk before mentioned which, as a sea- mark, is highly beneficial to mariners. Mamhead formerly belonged to the family of Night- ingale : the beautiful monument by Roubiliac in West- minster-abbey, commemorates a tragical event which occurred in the grounds of Mamhead, when Mrs. Nightingale was struck dead by lightning in her hubband's arms. L 110 TOrOGKAPHICAL DESCRIPTION Of About two miles and a half to the south oF Mam- head is Dawlish, which from a small fishing cove has risen in a few years to a state of comparative elegance. Jit first it was resorted to by a lew invalids, who wished for more retirement than they could enjoy at places more frequented ; but the mild and genial soft- ness of the air, and the natural attractions of this place, could not long escape general notice. Among a num- ber of good houses here, a singular imitation of a Gothic structure, erected by Sir William Watson, is particu- larly distinguishable. It has a kind of arcade in front, with columns and pointed aiches, decorated with escutcheons and fret-work pinnacles, and stands in a garden upon one of the cliffs, commanding a view for a considerable way, both towards Teignmouth and the opening of I'orbay. Other new houses have also been built upon the cliffs, intended as lodging-houses of a superior description. The bathing-machines here are numerous and well conducted ; and the beach in the front of the lodging-houses has a gentle descent to the sea, which is generally pure and clear. Though th.ere is no regular market, by a frequent communication with Kxeter and other towns, the place is pretty well supplied. The late improvements at Dawlish have rendered it one of the most fashionable watering-places on the const. Public rooms and a library have been built. A canal has been formed through the centre of the town, and several ranges of new houses have been erected. There is a beautiful walk under the rocks to Mount Pleasant. In Dr. Downman's Poem on In- fancy, the following apostrophe appears : " O Dawlish, though unclassic be thy name, By every muse unsung ; should, from thy tide, To keen poetic eyes alone reveal'd, From the cerulean bosom of the deep, (As Aphrodites rose of old) appear Health's blooming goddess, and benignant smile On her true votary; not Cytherca's fame, M DEVONSHIRE. Ill Not Eryx, nor the laurel boughs that wav'd On Delos, erst Apollo's natal soil, However warm enthusiastic youth Dwelt on these seats enamour'd, shall to me Be hair so dear. To thee will I consign Often the timid virgin to thy pure Encircling waves ; to thee will I consign The feeble matron ; or the child on whom Thou mayest bestow a second happier birth From weakness into strength. And should I view, Unfetter'd, with the firm sound judging minil, Imagination to return array 'd In her once glowing rest, to thee my lyre Shall oft be tun'd, and to thy Nereids green^ Long, long unnotic'd in their haunts retired. Nor will I cease to prize thy lovely strand, Thy towering clifts, nor the small babbling brook, Whose shallow current laves thy thistled vale.'' About one mile from Dawlish church, in a narrow valley, is Luscorabe-house, the seat of Charles Hoare, Esq. an elegant mansion ; and about three miles from Dawlish is Teignmouth, or rather the two Teignmouths, distinguished by East and West, situated near the afflux of the Teign, which rises in Dartmoor. There is a market every Saturday at West Teignmouth for poultry, butchers* meat, and fish of various kinds, and the inhabitants have a privilege of supplying themselves with this article before any is sold to the dealers. Teignmouth-house is one of the best here ; but there are several other elegant dwellings. The church, nearly in the centre of the town, is in the form of a cross; its roof is supported by the ramifications of a wooden pillar running up the middle, erected at the expcnce of a Mr, Aiartyn, commonly called Golden Mitrtyn. The altar-piece is of massy stone, very curiously sculptured, but the niches in the same have been long since deprived of the images that filled ihein. There are three galleries in this church, the last erected in 1812; and here are several neat monu- L2 112 TOPOGRAPlirCAL DESCRIPTION OF ments. The number of Dissenters is not many, though a neat Dissenting chapel lias been erected in ttie parish of East Teignmoutlj. In tlie eastern town, ti-e pubhc library, tlie rooms, and the shops, generally attract visitors, from their vicinity to the Den^ which is the principal promenade. Some persons have objected to the frequent showers here ; but the soil is so gravelly, that in half an hour after a storm of rain, pedestrians may walk about East Teignmouth without the fear of soiling their shoes. But as East Teignmouth supplies the best lodgings, furnished or unfurnished, this is now the grand resort of company. The bathing-machines are numerous and commodious, and the beach of smooth sands gra- dually slopes to the sea, generally clear and clean, and sheltered from all except the east winds. The public rooms consist of apartments for tea, coffee, an assembly, and billiards; and balls are held more or less frequently, according to (he wishes of the com- pany. The church of East Teignmouth is near the beach, and seems to be of Norman architecture, as has been inferred from the round tower. The narrow- windows with semicircular arches, and the heads of men and animals, which are placed as ornamental sup- ports to the parapet, are striking objects. Here are two inns, the Globe and the Hotel ; from the former a coach goes and returns the same day thrice a week for Exeter. From the billiard-room belonging to the hotel there is an extensive view up the river. What is called " The Walk" here, leads from the rooms towards the south, over a low flat be- tween the hills called the Den, a track of fine sand, interspersed with patches of grass. Seats are here placed in the most favourable situations for enjoying views of the sea, the cliffs, and the range of the coast. Another walk leads to the westward of the town by the grove near Britton, and the banks of the river ; and from East Teignmouth church, a third walk leads towards Dawlish, under the cliffs. To visit Shaldon, it fs only necessary to cross the DEVONSHIRE. 113 Teign by a feiry. Several lodging-houses have lately been buiit in this charuiiug village. Among the walks about it, that upon the beach is most frequented. The bathing-machines at Teignmouth, twelve in number, are ready at six o'clock in the morning, and the conductors are in attendance till one or two in the afternoon. Mrs. Hubbard's hot-baths, near Spring-gardens, have every accommodation attached to them, and attend- ance from seven in the nioiniing till ten at night. The public library, reading, billiard-room, and printing- othce, is kept by Mr. Croydon. It is a new and ele- gant building, and its various departments are fitted up with every possible convenience. Besides books, music, and drawings, are here let on hire, and here lufiy be read the Western Luminary, Exeter Flying l^ost, Woolmer's Gazette, the Plymouth and Dock Telegraph. Inns : The London Hotel, Mrs. Hubbard. The Gh)be ravei n on the Strand, Mr. William Parker. — The Post-office is at the west end of the town. The mail goes out every evening at half past six; arrives in Teignmouth at seven; and the letters are delivered out every morning at eight o'clock. Pleasure-boats may be hired here, as may also jaunting cars for land excursions; coaches also run almost every day in the week to Exeter : to these vehicles may be added- donkeys, :>edan-chairs, bath-chaii-s, waggons, and single horses. SEIN DRAWING. In addition to the balls, the theatre, &c. some novelty, if not entertainment, is afforded to the vi- sitors in seeing this mode of fishing, and the costume of the women, perfectly d la Hollandaise, The trade of Teignmouth consists chiefly in the export of pipe and potters* clay dug in the vicinity, and conveyed to Liverpool in vessels from 80 to SOO tons burthen. Some of these vessels freight home with coals, while others take salt, and proceed to Newfoundland ; L3 114 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCllIPTION OF from thence with fish to the markets of Spain, Portugal, and the Mediterranean. The Newfoundland trade is carried on with great spirit at thh place. Nothing has tended more to improve the heiiithiness of this spot, than the canal cut by the late James Temple, Esq. which has drained the marshes, and prevented the poisonous miasmata from coming down the river in the shape of fogs. In fact, agues were so connnon before at King's Teignton, that the inhabitants were scarcely ever free from their attacks. In the lodging-houses here the lodgers are expected to find themselves bed and table-linen. The range of houses distinguished by the names of Spring-gardens, Courtenay-row, Wellington-row, the Strand, llegent's- place, and HoUand's-row, are considered the most desirable situations, from their vicinity to the prome- nade, bathing-place, pubhc library rooms, theatre, and Wellington's Waterloo boarding-house. The popula- tion of East and West Teignmouth at present consists of about 4000 persons: fish may be had here in the highest perfection every day. It has been said of Devon, that in this county the "polished gentleman'^ more frequently occurs than any where else through- out the island. The Den, or fashionable promenade, commences from Mr. Cove's beautiful cottage at the extremity of East Teignmouth to the ship-yards, and terminates west, extendinii nearly a mile. It runs parallel with the beach to tlie point opposite Shaldon, where it forms a curve; and seats here enable the pedestrian to await the arrival of the passage-boat close to the cot- tage ornee of Mr. Kendal, which commands a full view of the estuary of the Teign. Looking up the river on either side, richly cultivated grounds present themselves, adorned with beautiful villas, amongst which stands Teignmouth-house, the residence of J. Baring, Esq., and the left with the pleasant hamlet of Shaldon. Iteturning by the rooms, and continuing on from the east end of the Den, we have a view of the relidence of Dr. Tayleur; and passing the marine DEVONSHIRE. 115 cottage of Captain Wight, a path leads into the Daw- lish road J and about half a mile further on is the hamlet of Holcorabe. In fine, the walks and rides in the more immediate vicinity of Teignmouth are de- lightfully pleasant: but the smooth yet firm sands, close to the water's edge, are peculiarly adapted to invalids, and for the enjoyment of the sea-air in its utmost purity. Here no boats are hauled up, no fishermen's nets spread, nor any obstructions to walk- ing or riding on this beach, as horses with pillions may be procured for ladies, &c. The trade of Teignmouth consists of some commer- cial intercourse with Newfoundland, the exportation of clay, and the importation of coal, carried on chiefly in craft built at the place, where there are conve- niences for launching vessels of 100 tons. Lord Clifford, by his deputy, holds a court-baron, or court-leet. for VVest Teignmouth once every year; at which court a jury is regularly nominated, two con- stables deputed and sworn, and a portreeve chosen, who is invested with considerable authority. The great tithes, and the tithes of fish, in Teign- mouth, belong to the Dean and Chapter of Exeter. The greatest part of the town is freehold, and has been con- siderably improved since it became a watering-place. Teignmouth is a place of considerable antiquity, and is remarkable fi^r the landing of the Danes, m 970, in their first expedition against England. In the reign of Queen Anne, a great part of the town was burnt by the French : the inhabitants, however, by means of a brief, were soon after enabled to rebuild one of the streets, which they called French-street, in memory of the calamity. The company who visit Teignmouth as a watering- place, principally resort to East Teignmouth, where the theatre and public rooms are situated. The for- mer was built upon a piece of ground given by Lord Courtenay, and opened for the first time in 180'2. Here are two inns, the Globe and the Hotel ; from 116 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF the former, a coach sets out and returns the same day thrice a week for Exeter. There formerly was a market held on the Sunday at West Teignraouth, but discontinued in the reign of Henry III. by order of the sheriff. It has ever since been held on the Saturday. Salmon, salmon peal, sea trout, whiting, mackerel, and many other kinds offish, are taken in great plenty here. The number of houses in East and V^'est Teign- mouth are 749, and the inhabitants 3980. One mile and a half to the west of Teignmouth is Bishop's Teignton, a small parish, remarkable for the many roads that intersect it, extending, upon a moderate computation, between 40 and 50 miles, though the circumference of the parish is not more than 12 miles. The church is an ancient structure, apparently of Saxon architecture. About two miles south-west from Bishop's Teign- ton, is the small village of King's Teignton. Shaldon, a small village opposite Teignmouth, across the Teign, nearly under the promontory, called the Ness, has lately become much frequented in the summer by families visiting the v/atering-places on this coast. It has a chapel, erected nearly 150 years ago by the Carews of Haccombe, most beautifully situated a little above the Teign, about three quarters of a mile from the hamlet, at the end of a walk through a grove of trees. This agreeable place is tlie property of Lord Clifford. The road fi-om Exeter to Honiton passes through a most beautiful country, full of wood, and abounding in gentlemen's seats and picturesque cottages. Four miles from Exeter is Cl^st-house, which, pre- vious to the dissolution of monasteries, was a palace belonging to the bishops of Exeter. It is a large and venerable building, commanding extensive views of the country. About one mile and a half out of the high road, is Faringdon-house, the seat of J, B. Chol- wich, Esq. DEVONSHIRE. lit At the distance of about eleven miles from Exeter, stood Estcot-house, hurut down several years since. Tt had been the seat of Sir John Kennaway, Bart. Between the high road and Ottery St. Mary, vvhicli lies about a mile and a half to the left, is Cadham, an ancient seat, formerly the property of a family of that name. Ottery St. Mary derives its name from its situa- tion near the river Otter, and its patron saint. The church is very large, and of singular construction. On each side there is a square tower opening into the body of tlie church, and forming two transepts, as in Exeter Cathedral. The towers have pinnacles and open battlements, and that on the north a small spire. There is a richly ornamented chapel at the north- west corner, built by Bisliop Grandison : the roof is covered witli fan-shaped tracery. A monument to the memory of the wife of Gideon Sherman, Esq. was, among several others, destroyed by the negli- gence so apparent in this church. There are 693 houses in this town, and 3522 inhabitants, whose chief employment is the manufacture of coarse woollen cloth. The celebrated Sir Walter Raleigh inhabited a mansion in this town, the remains of which are still to be seen in Mill-street. The parish of Ottery St. Mary is an hundred of itself. Pursuing our journey, at the distance of sixteen miles from Exeter, we arrive at Honitox, as before observed, a town situated in a delightful vale, upon a rising ground, on the south side of the river Otter, 151 miles from London. This is an ancient place, belonging, before the Conquest, to Drogo, a Saxon, and then gv.en by William to his half-brother, the Earl of Mortaigne. In the reign of Henry the First, the manor was granted to Richard de Rivers, from whom it descended to the Courtenays, Earls of Devon, and is now the property of James Towii- shend, Esq. The market is on Saturday, and has been held ever since the reign of King* John, who appointed 118 TOPoonAPiiicAL Dz sound. The treble has for its motto, " Peace and good neighbourhood ;'* and the tenor, " I to the church the living call, And to the grave I summon all." M IS^ TOPOGRAPHICAL DEijCIUPlION OF The church fias two aisles and three galleries, with two additional wings ; there is also what is peculiar to churches in Devonshire and Cornwall, viz. a north aisle, appropriated to the purpose of a chapel or chan- try; but which at the Reformation was divided into pews, generally for the family of the lord of the manor, or for che benefit of the minister. Since the year 17 Sr), when the church received an additional wing, it has been large enough to accommodate 2000 persons. The tower of Bideford-church, like many others in Devonshire, is a mark for vessels, especially those bound over the bar. Among other improvements which have taken jjlace, the erection of a new vestry-room has been mentioned as one of the best. The original vestry was the record-room of the town ; upon its site five new seats or pews have been erected, and the new vestry-room was built upon a spot of ground taken out of a convenient part of the church-yard. On some of the walls and pew-doors of this church there are armorial bearings ; many of these are quartered with other coats, but the greatest number have the Granville arras alone. The only monument which that family have in this church, is on the south side of the chancel, near the altar. It is a freestone table, upon which lies extended the statue of man in armour, with a dog, not as customary at the feet, but by his side. There are but few sepulchral monuments here worthy of notice, excepting that in commemoration of John Strange, Esq., who died in 1646. This was placed so high after the alterations of 1785, that its inscription is indiscernible below. A little to the left of its former site, upon a small black marble tablet, is inscribed : Neare the foot of this piller doth lye A mother deare, and her foure children bye. In the churcli-yard there is but one grave-stoije DEVONSHIRE. 123 commemoralive of any reiiuukable person or cifcum- stance, viz. In memory of Henry, Jolin, and Christoplier Ravening, of this tow ne, Surgiutie, 1646. To whom God lends Fair vvinges to (ley, Our trust needs then in God must he. Our age was young, our age but tender. We were three Ravens Tliat here be under. Exett Morbis Dei. Note George Forgitt, 1646, In the disease died here. It is remarkable, that not one of those persons is entered in the parish register of burials for that year; it is therefore probable, that many others were omit- ted in the same manner : of course, the real number that died of the plague, was much greater than the registered account. There was formerly appended to the church of Bideford, what was called the Church-house, standing within the boundaries of the church-yard walls. In many places these church-houses were called, and still retain the name of bead-houses ; and no doubt they were erected for the benefit of poor religious persons, who were to lead a devout life, to attend re- gularly the service of the church, particularly that of the chantry, and to oiFer up frequent prayers for the souls of the founders. Tiiese were called Beadsmen. Mr. Watkins, author of An Essay towards a His- tory of Bideford, observes, that " At the Reforma- tion, these pious edifices, not being considered in the number of religious houses, generally speaking, were either appropriated to the service of the ministers of their respective parishes, or retained as alms-houses. The house in question was used as an alms-house, and continued so till a very few years before 1792, when the lord of the manor (by what right was not gene- rally understood) caused the principal materials to be M 2 124 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF removed for the repair of a mill belonging to him, and then leaser! out the premises to a house-carpenter. Mr. Watkins adds, " How the parish suffered this house to be taken away in this manner, v^ithout any inquiry, I cannot account for; but I am iu hopes tliat an inquiry will even yet be instituted." It further appears, that the parish of Bideford was freed from several ecclesiastical exactions; for in- stance, tithing apples and pears had been paid by the conscience, or as they thought good, and not otherwise. For beans and peas eaten green, no tithing was paid ; and the borough of Bideford, upon the death uf any of the inhabitants, never paid any mortuaries or bequests to tlie pastor of the parish. By the charity of numbers of pious and well-dis- posed people, it seems the poor of Bideford had been welt provided for in the various bequests made from time to time, some of them for ever. But to use tlie words of the faithful historian before quoted, " the eternitj/ of this donation, like many others, has long since ceased,'* notwithstanding the executors and overseers were " prayed in God's name, as they would answer it at the general judgment, not to neglect the performance of their duty." Of two other charities Mr. Watkins observes, " It is much to be lamented, and raises an honest indignation in the philanthropic mind, to consider that both these pious and useful and pious donations have long since been totally lost." Ex uno diace omnes, Bideford has an ancient free grammar-school, a free-school, Sunday-schools, &c. A bank was open- ed here in November 1791. The principal government is vested, by charter granted in 1610, in a mayor, seven aldermen, a re- corder, and two burgesses. The mayor and recorder for the time being, and one of the aldermen, chosen by the rest of the corporation, are justices of the peace within the borougli. At present the coasting trade, and the import and export of coals and limestone; with some ship-building, DEVONSHIRE. 125 constitute the chief business of the place. There are indeed great quantities of eartlien-ware manufactured here, which is sent, both by sea and land, to all parts of the kingdom. Among the exports must also be mentioned oak-bark, of which great quantities are annually sent to Ireland and Scotland. The market, which is held on Tuesday, is well supplied with corn and all sorts of provisions, at very moderate prices. With respect to local advantages, few towns in England, and not one in the north of Devon, can challenge a superiority over this. Nothing, perhaps, can be more picturesque than the view above the bridge. Near the fording-place, a large wood rises from tlie side of the river to the summit of a high hill of a square pyramidal form ; and at the bottom of that side fronting the town, is a beautiful small meadow, which is a perfectly natural amphitheatre, and verdant all the year round. This, with a large ancient house close by, gardens and fields in a high state of cultiva- tion, forms a landscape worthy the attention of the eye of taste. About half a mile north of Bideford is Port-bill, the seat of the late Mr. Willet, commanding beautiful prospects of the surrounding country. The small sea-port town of Appledore is situated on the side of a hill, about three miles below Bideford, in Barnstaple Bay. Here Hubba, the Dane, landed in the reign of Alfred, by whom he was discomfited and slain, with 1200 men, before Kinvith, or Kenny- castle. Appledore, on the south coast of the Bristol Chan- nel , from its pleasant scenery, its walks, and its beautiful sands, has become a very pretty watering- place. It is situated on the Taw and the Torridge, two of the finest rivers in Devonshire, both of which are much frequented in summer by pleasure- boats, &c. To the accommodation of lodging-houses at Apple- dore, a good inn has been added, and it is supplied M3 126 TOPOGrAPIIICAL DESCRIPTION OF with fisli and all other articles, three times a week, by its own market, and those of Barnstaple and Bide- ford. Vessels sail almost every day either to Swan- sea or Tenby, in Wales, and also to Bristol, Ireland, and Scotland. The BurrouSf or the sand-beach here, being three miles in length, aflbrd an excellent ride. The views from hence are the promontory of Hercules, called Hartland Point, Lundy island and Ilfracomb on the north and north-west, and Barnstaple and Bideford on the east and south-west. Any of these places may be reached in about an hour, either by land or water. About four miles south of Bideford is Torrington, or Great Torrington, to distinguish it from a small village of the same name. This is a very ancient place, and is finely situated, partly on the summit and partly on the declivity of a iioble eminence, which forms the eastern bank of the river Torridge. On the south side are some slight vestiges of an ancient castle, the origin of which is unknown; its site has lately been used as a bowling-green, and commands a fine prospect. The river is here seen to flow in a graceful current along a narrow valley, enclosed by grand sloping ridges, and having a beautifully w ooded back ground. Torrington was formerly invested with the privilege of having representatives in Parliament, but no return has been made since the reign of Henry VI. Its government is vested in a mayor, eigh.t aldermen, and sixteen burgesses, who act under a charter granted by Queen Mary. Torring- ton consists principally of one long street, and has been very populous and flourishing ; the chief employ- ment of the inhabitants arising from the woollen manufacture. Here are two churches, the most ancient of which is furnished with a library. Some ancient alms-houses in the town possess the right of commonage on an extensive piece of ground, given by William Fitzrobcrt, Baron of Torrington, in the reign of Richard I. Here is a free-school for thirty DKVONSHIRE. 127 boys. Margaret, Countess of Richmond, and mo- ther of Henry VII. resided some time in this place, and was a considerable benefactress. The views from the two bridges in the vicinity of the town are delightful. The market is on Saturday. According to the late returns, this parish contains 2538 inhabitants, who are chiefly employed in the woollen manufacture, and 455 houses. Of the castle above-mentioned there are but small remains, if any, now to be seen. Tawstock-house, two miles from the new bridge, on the road towards Barnstaple, is tiie seat of Sir Bourchier Wrey, Bart. The principal part of this mansion having been burnt in 1787, was afterwards rebuilt by Sir B. Wrey, who greatly improved the grounds. This place is singularly situated on the river Taw, between two verdant hills richly skirted with forest trees, but with a bold descent towards the river, which meanders delightfully through the vale at the distance of half a mile, the boundary hills widening as they descend. The house is approached through extensive woods and park-grounds. The church near it contains many handsome monuments belonging to the family, and the place itself is said to be remarkable for possessing the best manor, the noblest mansion, most curious church, and the richest rectory in the county. BARNSTAPLE Is situated on the east side of the river Taw, in a broad and fertile vale. It is a very ancient ])lace, constituted a borough by King Athelstan, who built a castle here, near the confluence of the North Sea with the Taw, of which nothing remains, except a high artificial mount; and at the time of the Conquest, as appears from the Doomsday Sur\'ey, " there were forty burgesses within the borough, and nine without." There was, at the time of the dissolution of monas- teries, a small priory here, the revenues of which were valued at 123/. 6s. Id. per annum. 128 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF The corporation at present consists of a mayor, two bailiffs, two aldermen, twenty-two common- council-men, and other officers. Barnstaple sends two representatives to Parliament, elected by the members of the corporation and the common bur- gesses; the number of voters being about 260. The privileges of the town were confirmed by a charter granted by James I. " The woollen trade, when formerly carried on here with considerable spirit, threw a large sum of money into the town, and enabled its inhabitants to beautify it with many respectable houses. This trade has of late failed ; but baize, silk stockings, and waistcoat manufactories, still give life to the place." Besides this source of wealth and population, the pleasing character of the country around, and the comparative cheapness of this part of England, have added to its inhabitants, by inducing many independent families to settle here entirely ; a circumstance that renders Barnstaple by far the most genteel town in North Devon ; it boasts indeed of some marks of a metro- polis — balls every fortniglit, and a regular theatre. A noble quay stretches along the river-side to a great length, terminated at one end by a handsome piazza; over the centre of which stands the statue of Queen Anne, with the following inscription : ANN.V INTEMERAT.^ FIDEI TESTIMONIVM ROBERTI ROLLE DE STEVENSTONE, AGRO DEVONIENSI, ARMIG. 1708. The river Taw is of considerable breadth here, but very shallow, owing to the great and continual in- crease of sand, which, it is greatly to be feared, will in time entirely choak the port. Over the river is a handsome stone bridge of sixteen arches, very similar to that at Bideford^ and probably built about the same time. The grammar-school at Barnstaple has acquired BF.VOXSHJKE. i^9 much ceiebiity, for litivint^ been the place of the earlier education of several distinguished characters; it has been establishclPTION OF he were on ail-fours, and slipped and sprawled about like a cat in walnut-shells, and with the same extraor- dinary pertinacity tor keeping his feet. This ungainly attitude was strongly c<;ntrasted by Cann's upright muscular form towering above it, and followiiig lion- like the crouchingand shifting manoeuvres of the crea- ture opposed to him. This display of skill and strength lasted tive minutes; and such being the time limited for the single playy as it is termed, the parties were instantly separated by the two umpires. When a man has stood out t«o men and thrown one, he is set down as a double player, and is entitled to strive among the select on the second day for the prizes. Of course, all the Cann's, the best men from the moors, and young Brockenden and Thorn from Dawlish, made themselves double players. The second morning was any thing bat " rosy-fingered," and there was some slow and tedious contests for double players till very late in the afternoon, so that the grand contest did not commence till the moon arose, when the first shout from the master of the revels was, " The younger Cann, and Widdicoinb of the moors." This was received with a low murmur and a deep interest, which almost smotliered sound. The younger Cann was the stoutest of the brotherhood, finely formed and fair-haired. He stripped and accoutred himself immediately, his two brothers assisting in buckling his leg armour and fastening his jacket. The Cann's were farmers, con- sisting of five brothers, all excellent wrestlers, though only three of them were present on this occasion. The popular feeling, it might be perceived, was pain- fully on Cann's side. Widdicomb, the moor-man, was soon prepared for the conflict ; he was a giant in size, and after the cup had been pledged, the opponents seized each other with an iron grasp. Ca.:n stood boldly but cautiously up, as conscious that he had much to do, and the moor-man opposed him resolutely. The struggle was immediate, and Cann, with one terrific wrench, threw his antagonist to the earth; but he fell so doubtfully on his shoulder, that it seemed DEVONSHIRE. 13ii rjiicertain whether he wouM have tVillen on his back, or recover himseU' by rolling on his face, which by a sudden wrench he effected. In consequence of the slippery btate of the grass, Cann now fell upon his knees, and the inoor-jnan instantly hurled him on his back. All was uproar and confusion, but Cann was declared to have received a fall ; though, as he did not seem to be convinced of the justice of his judges, it v*as with real pain of spirit that he pulled off his jacket. Young Brockenden followed next with another man from the moors, and he received a doubtful fall, w.'iich was much cavilled at; but which the judges, nevertheless, gave against him. It now grew late, and the clouds thickening round, the wrestling could scarcely be perceived : the relator left the spot, but he afterwards heard that the Cann's retrieved the fame of the family. In the morning the awning and the scaffolding had vanished ; the young fellows had separated, the Cann's to their farms, and the others to the moors. On the left of the road from Barnstaple to Ilfra- comb there are several villas, beautifully situated upon the eastern bank of the Taw, within one, two, and three miles of Barnstaple. The road then passes over a very extensive common particularly bleak, and unsheltered by any sort of tree or hedge, for the whole distance to ILFRACOMB, Which is the most northerly town in Devonshire, in the hundred of Braunton, deriving its chief conse- quence from the peculiar situation and safety of its harbour; which is perhaps more indebted to nature than art for its particular advantages, ti»e inner bason being almost wholly formed by the rocks which sur- round and defend it. Upon one of these rocks next the sea, rising nearly to a point, is erected a light- house, which has very much the appearance of a small church. " Along the side of the same rock, to the opening of the liarbour, runs an artificial pier N2 156 TOPOCKAPIIICAL DESClilPTION OF jadiciously constructed, to prevent the accumulation of sand; so that, by tlie joint assistance of the natural barrier and this piece of masonry, sliips of 230 tons burthen may ride completely land-locked, and of course perfectly safe from all violence of weather. Over the gate of the pier, a stone tablet, uiih the fol- lowing inscription^ informs us to whom the town is indebted for this valuable addition to its conveniences and advantages : " Tiiis extensive Pier, built some years since by the munificence of the Bouchlers, Barons Fitz-Warine, Earls of Bath, and Vice-Admirals of the place, was,, in the year 1760, partly rebuilt, lengthened, and enlarged, by Sir Bouchier Wray, Bart., the present lord and inheritor of this pier and manor." A number of good houses, chiefly for the accommo- dation of strangers in the summer season, range along the side of the harbour, and the remainder of the town stretches for a mile in length to the westward of it. A pebbly shore in the same direction, aifords a convenient walk for pedestrians. Ilfracomb consists of one street, running from the sea-side to the church. It is one mile in length, and the houses are tolerably well built. The church is a large edifice, and contains a hand- some monument, erected at the national expence to the memory of Captain Bowen, who was killed in the attempt upon Teneriffe, under Lord Nelson. Ilfra- comb is so conveniently situated, that vessels can run in here when they cannot make Bideford or Barn- staple; so that much of the port business is done here. This is a very convenient place for sea-bathing; and there are several coves and machines outside the pier for that purpose.. On a summit near the bay, is n neat summer-house, from which there is a very beau- tiful prospect.. Ilfracomb, as a watering-place, has risen to an un- common degree of celebrity within a few years past; DEVONSHIRE. 137 and as there are several genteel families in and about tlie town, it is a fashionable retreat during the sum- mer montlis. To a good market, good inns, and convenient lodgings, may be added, a coach that goes two or three times a-week to Barnstaple: and, besides the packets that go to Bristol, Swansea, and Milibrd, fast sailing skiffs maybe hired, for excursions to sea, at a short notice. The cabin-passengers in the packet from Ilfracomb to South Wales pay 105. 6d.; the rest in proportion. The rides and walks about Ilfracomb are extremely picturesque, especially the Valley of Stones. Ilfracomb is noted for maintaining constant lights for the direction of sailors. Packet-boats sail twice a-week, every Monday and Thursday, across the Bristol Channel, from Ilfracomb to Swansea in Gla- morganshire, and from Swansea to Ilfracomb every Wednesday and Saturday. The coast, which extends from Ilfracomb to Linton, is peciiliarly fatal to shipping. Such is the height and the precipitous form of the rocks, that few escape with life who have the misfortune to suffer shipwreck on them. The Valley of Mort, or Morthal, five miles from Ilfracomb, is beautifully romantic. It affords a de- lightful ride of nearly two miles over the level beach of Wollacombe Sands, and presents an extensive view of a highly-cultivated country. Tradition affirms, that Sir William de Tracey, one of the murderers of Thomas a Becket, resided at Mort several years prior to his death. A large tomb in the church denotes that his remains lie there, though time has rendered the inscription illegible. This part of the coast of Devonshire has been less frequented than any other, and consequently has, till lately, been less known than other parts of the sea-shore ; but it is not, on that account, less interesting. It is supposed to have derived its name from the French word Mort, or death, it liaving been too frequently fatal to mariners, and N3 138 TOFOGRAPIIICAL DESCRITTION OF probably particularly so to French predatory invaders ill former times. Combe-Martin, a very small fishing-town, is si- tuated about three miles to the east of Ilfracomb, and " dyriveth its name from the situation, being a lowe and deep valley, surrounded with very hiiih hills (towards the sea excepted), and the addition of Martin, from Le Sieur Martin de Turon, a man of mucii worth, and assistant to William Duke of Normandye, when he conquered this land, of whom he had this, with other great possessions, given him." The houses ex- tend along the dale in an irregular manner for at least a niile from the sea-shore. " The scenery of the latter," says Dr. Maton, " is really magnificent; its more prominent parts are singularly- striking, and have the happiest accompaniments imaginable. A well broken lofty pile of rocks rises on one side of a little creek, and constitutes the termination of a ridge, de- liciously wooded towards the village, and answered by hills of equal boldness opposite. From the brows of the rock hang a tuft of foliage, spared by the rude blasts of the main ; the waves buffet the partial verdure at the base. The road winds down by two or three tempest-torn cottages, which a painter would consider inestimable, as they are exactly on that part of the precipice where he himself would have placed them tor the advantage of his picture." There were formerly silver mines at Combe-Martin, of " the fir^t fynding and working of which, ther are no certain records rernayninge. In the tyme of Edward the First they were wrought; but in the tumultuous raigne of his sonn they might chance to be forgotten, until his nephew, Edward the Third, who, in his French conquest, made good use of them ; and so did Henry tlje Fifth : and lately in our age, in the tyme of Queen Elizabeth, there was found a new lode in the land of Richard Roberts, gentleman, first began n to be wrought by Adrian Gilbert, Esq., and after by Sir Beavis Bulmer^ Knt., by \Yhoes mynerall skill great DEVONSHIRE, 139 qurtiitetie of silver was landed and refined, of wlucli he guve a rich and tayer cup to the Right Hon. William Earl of Bathe, whereon was engraven : In Alartin's-Combe long lay I hyd, Obscured deprest vvith grosser soyle, Del)ased much with mixed load, Till Bulmer came, whoes skill and toy!' OF ill London, and other places, supplied persons here with goods on credit, to whom, perhaps, they were entire strangers, and who frequently began their career of business without a shilling. Some of these, in a few months after a rapid sale, absconded with the money; others, from ignorance of the business they engaged in, and extravagant living, soon obtained a residence in the sheriff's ward of Exeter. Their places, however, were immediately filled by others of the same description, and goods supplied them in the same way vvith equal eagerness. The speculations of those who furnished them must, therefore, have been, on the whole, advantageous. Most of the articles, indeed, were manufactured for the occasion, and the prices were exorbitant. The prodigality and credulity of seamen have be'n long proverbial; but the naval heroes of the piCoent day seem, in these respects, to have out-done all their predecessors. The inconsistent and thoughtless profusion of this singular class of men, tlieir frolics, their credulity, and the various imposi- tions practised on them, would altogether form a de- tail the most curious and incredible. Extravagance, however, was not confined to them. The artificers in the Dock-yard, who, during war, double, and fre- quently treble, their wages, and, indeed, many of the inhabitants, who derived any benefit from this source of calamity to the world, evinced a similar disposition. Prodigality seemed to be the order of the day. This superfluity, however, was principally lavished in per- sonal decoration, and luxurious living. Distinctions in dress and modes of living became at length almost extinct. Amidst the general dissipation and rage for worldly aggrandisement, a religious disposition was every where prevalent. Churches, chapels, and meetings, were crowded with auditors. The latter not only on Sundays, but many evenings in the week. Besides public places of worship, parties of the pious assembled at each other's houses, and embryo preachers here first practised the rudiments of their future calling ! DLVONSHIllE. 171 These spiritual pastors were principally uneducated mechanics ajid artificers in the Dock-yard and town. Never, perhaps, did moralist survey a more incon- gruous spectacle than this place afforded. The most open and undisguised profaneness, and the most rigid sanctity, seemed equally predominant. On one hand were heard the revels of debauchery and drunkenness ; and on the other, the praises and prayers of devotional congregations ! The sanctuaries of religion were sur- rounded by the temples of profligacy. Prostitution walked the streets shameless and unabashed : levity and extravagance were universally diffused. Extortion prevailed, as if by mutual concurrence; most seeming desirous rather to participate in its advantages, than to oppose its influence. A disinterested observer would have thought that the whole desideratum of life was confined to the acquisition of wealth, licentious gratifications, and ostentatious dress; and that its duties were comprised in a regular attendance on places of worship, and the belief of certain undefinable notions, and extravagant conceits, which neither improve the understanding, correct the manners, or amend the heart. All the refinements of intellect, all the treasures of mental wealth, were despised. That such a general acquies- cence in dissipation and venality should exist under the apparent auspices of religion, is a circumstance peculiar, perhaps, to modern times. According to the returns of 1821, the number of in- habitants in Plymouth and its suburbs was 61,212: the houses, 6248. ^Jt was in the reign of William III. first designed to make a wet and dry dock here; there have been added several others, with every convenience for building and repairing ships, hewn out of a mine of slate, and lined with Portland stone. After the construction of the docks, storehouses were built for the arms, rigging, sails, &c. with houses for the different officers and artificers of every description to live in. Also exten- sive barracks, and a military hospital ; all which, with Q2 1?2 TOPOGlUrHICAL Dr.SCRIPJ JON OF the great number of houses occupied by tfadesmf-n and private individuals, iiave rendered Dock nearly as large as Plymouth itself; to which indeed it appears to belong, being completely connected by the village of Stonehouse, which is a very populous and improving place, and extending from Plymouth towards Dock. The marine barracks, a fine pile of buildings, built of limestone or marble, on the east side of Stonehouse, are very extensive. Stonehouse derives its name from Joel de Stone- house, lord of this domain in the reign of Henry Ilf. It anciently received the name of East Stonehouse, to distinguish it from West Stonehouse, which, being burnt by the French^ has long ceased to bear that name. This was situated on the opposite shore of the harbour, at Cremill. Stonehouse is now situated about one mile west of Plymouth, and nearly mid- way between that town and Dock, although the buildings in Union-street nearly approach those at Plymouth. The great turnpike, to the ferry at New- passage, which is continued from Torpoint, through Cornwall, passes through Stonehouse, from which circumstance, and the erection of the hospitals and barracks, it has risen, withiii a few years, from a Small village to a handsome town. The present number of inhabitants is computed at six thousand. The police of Stonehouse is under the direction of Thomas Clinton Shields, Esq. a county magistrate, resident in the tow^n ; but all complaints and other business are brought before the bench of magistrates, at their weekly sittings at the Town-hall in Dock. The usual number of constables are appointed, but there are no watchmen, nor are the streets lighted at any period of the year. With the exception of the older parts of the town, the buildings are neat and handsome, and the streets straight and commodious ; particularly those of Durnford-street, Emma-place, Edgcumbe-strret, and Union-street. These are almost entirely occupied by genteel families, chiefly those of naval and militay otficers, and o'ther persons hold- DEVONSHI'RE. 173 ing situations under government; nmny of whom have been induced to become proprietors of houses, on tiie very liberal terms on which the lord of the manor grants leases, which are renewable for ever, at a small fixed fine, subject to the payment of an an- nual conventionary rent. The addition of Union- street, which has taken place within the last five years, is an improvement of the greatest importance, as the road through Fore-street is narrow and incon- venient, and the houses fiar the most part irregularly built ; while the new roadaflbrds a spacious thorough- fare, and presents to strangers, on their entrance, a succession of neat and uniform buildings. The whole parish of East Stonehouse is the property of the Earl of Mount Edgcumbe, and the houses are chiefly leased out on the plan before described. The inhabitants are supplied with water by the Dock water-works, from whence it is brought by means of pipes carried across the creek; the rent of which is the same as at Dock. The only kinds of commerce carried on here, are the coal and timber trades. The vessels thus employed, discharge their cargoes at the quays in Stonehouse-pool. The principal quay is spacious and convenient, and the dues for landing goods are collected by a renter. The watermen, who ply for hire, resort to this quay, and like those at Plymouth, are under no regulation as to their fares. Near this is a shipwright's yard, where ressels can be drawn up and repaired. Stonehouse-bridge, the principal avenue between Plymouth and Dock, was erected at the joint expence of the Earl of Mount Edgcumbe and Sir John St. Aubyn, Bart. It consists of one handsome arch, built of stone. Foot passengers, horsemen, and carriages, pay a toll at this bridge ; the rent of which is esti- mated at about 500^. per annum. The number of houses in Dock must be nearly 2500, all built by the inhabitants upon leases for ninety-nine years, granted by the lord of the manor, determinable by the death of three lives, nominated by the lessee, and subject to Q 3 1^4 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF a small annual quit-rent of a few shillings, with a heriot, double tlie quit-rent, on the death of each life. The present annual income is considered as amounting to about 6000/. but whenever the w.hole of the lands and houses of the manor, not on perpetual renewal, re- verts to the proprietor, little doubt can be entertained, but that the rental will increase to upwards of 80,000/. per annum. The town of Dock and Dock-yard are defended by strong fortifications. On the norlh-east and south sides the town is bounded by a wall about twelve feet high, called the King's interior boundary wall; the western side is skirted by the Dock-Yard and Gun- ^Vharf. Without the wall is a line or breast-work, with a ditch, from twelve to eighteen and twenty feet deep, excavated from the solid slate and lime-stone rock. In the lines are three barrier gates; the North Barrier, which leads to the new passage across the Tamar ; the Stoke Barrier, leading towards Tavistock ; and the Stonehouse Barrier, conducting towards Stone- iiouse, Plymouth, &:c. Of the other fortifications, the principal are a battery on Mount Wise (where the ancient seat of the Wises, formerly lords of the manor, stood); another at Obelisk HiilJ near Mount Edg- cumbe; and the Redoubt and Block House on Mount Pleasant, which commands the capitol of the lines. The Dock-yard, even in its present unfinished state, is acknowledged to be one of the finest in the world. When it was first used as a naval arsenal is uncertain ; but as the Bason and its Dock are the most ancient, though not made till the reign of William the Third, it seems evident that this was a place of little conse- quence previous to that period. The Dock-yard is separated from the town by a wall of slate and lime- stone, in some places thirty feet high, extending from North Corner on the north to Mutton Cove on the south. The area within these bounds is seventy-one acres and thirty-six poles, exclusive of the projecting parts of the Jetties. The entrance to the Dock-yard from tlie land side DEVONSHIRE. 1T5 is from Fore-street, by a large gate for carriages, «S:c. and a small one for foot-passengers. These are guarded with the utmost vigilance by three under- porters, and two military centinels, who suffer no person to enter, who is not well known or in uniform, without an order in writing from the commissioners. Immediately within the gates is the Master-porter's House, near which is a small neat chapel, consisting of two aisles, and a tower ; tiie tower and one aisle were erected, as appears by an inscription over the south door, in the year 1700; the other aisle was erected by a late incumbent, on condition that he should receive the emoluments arising from letting the pews ; which lie continued to do till the year 1787, when government returned the sum he had expended in the building, and appropriated the chapei exclu- sively to tlie officers and artificers of the navy and Dock-yard. In front of the chapel is the Military Guard Office, and over it the Navy Pay-Ohice. A new chapel was opened in the Dock-yard in No- vend)cr 1817, which may unquestionably be reckoned ajnong the finest specimens of modern church architec- ture in the united kingdoms. This chajjel has been re- built by government, on a larger and more liberal scale than before, for the better acconnnodation of the clerks and artificersof theDock-yard, the admiral, and officers of the navy, the general officers and corps of royal ma- rines, and the officers, men, and boys, of the ordinary. Weakley's Hotel has powerful recommendations; the same may be said of Goude's King's Arms, Town- shend's London Inn, ike. The market-place is of recent erection, and for extent and accommodation is fully etjual to any in the west of England; and the market,though not chartered, is held three times a-week. /a fiat paved road, skirted with elms, leads from the gates to the officers' dwelling-houses, which are thirteen in number, built of brick, three stories high, with kitchens beneath, and pleasant gardens lichind ; in front is a double row of lime-trees. ^ From hence tu 176 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF the lower part of the yard, which has been levelled from the solid rock, is a de-scent by a number of steps which lead to two handsome buildings, erected oflate years as offices: in the northernmost is the. joiner's shop, having a cupola rising from the centre. (Directly opposite these buildings is the Bason and Dock that were made in the reign of King William. The Bason is a large excavation, into which the water flo«s through an opening about seventy feet wide ; here all the boats belonging to the yard are kept, as well as the launches employed in moving ships. Within the Bason is the Dock, which is sufficiently capacious for a seventy-four gun ship ; its length is 197 feet three inches ; its width sixty-five feet ten inches ; and its depth twenty-three feet one inch. i^The Bason is bounded on each side by jetty-heads, which are plat- forms projecting over the sea, supported by wooden pillars driven fuTl of nails, to prevent the worms from perforating them. Vessels of all sizes lie alongside these jetties, without grounding, and here all ships are brought to be fitted out. Adjoining the South Jetty is the rigging-house, a handsome building, 480 feet long, and three stories high, forming one side of a quadrangle. This fabric is of limestone, with the coins and cornices of Portland stone. Within it, the rigging for the ships of war is kept in such a state of forwardness, as to be fit for use at a very short notice. Over the rigging-house is the sail-loft, where all the sails are cut out and made. The remaining three sides of the quadrangle are store- houses, in wtjich the various articles necessary to equip the fleets are kept. Southward from these buildings is a slip for hauling up and cleaning the bottoms of small vessels, such as sloops of war, cutters, &c. Beyond this is the Cam- ber, a long canal, about seventy feet wide, terminating at the upper end in a bason, where boats lay; on the north side of which is the boat-house, where )>oats are^ built and repaired, and afterwards kept till wanted.} Here, previous to the year 1768, was the bounds of DEVONSHIllE. 177 the yard ; all hence to the southward is still called the " New Ground." On the sides of the Camber several cranes have lately been erected, constructed on a new plan, and of such great power, that two of them worked by eight men will raise fifteen tons. The others, of less power, will raise ten tons each. By a swinging bridge a tlwroughfare is made across the canal. Near the water is the anchorage-wharf, where anchors are made ^ cwt. (^The blacksmith's shop, which is situated south from the canal, is a spacious building, about 210 feet square, and containing forty-eight forges. The largest anchors made here weigh five tons, and are worth upwards of 550/. each; they are made of iron bars, forged to- gether, and are moved in and out of the fire by the aid of cranes. Those wlio are unaccustomed to scenes of this kind, feel strong sensations of horror on first entering; the clanking of the chains used to blow the bellows, the dingy countenance of the workmen, the immense fires, and above all, the yellow glare thrown on every thing by the flames shining through the dis- mal columns of smoke that continually fill the build- ing, form together n most terrific picture. The an- chor-whaif fronts the blacksmith's shop. Some hun- dreds of anchors for ships of war, are generally stored here, all of them paintee passed over. Since the construction of the sea-wall here, it has been used in removing submarine rocks, and improving the anchorage in different parts of the Soun-d, where its singular and interesting operations may be viewed. The present machine, which has been greatly im- proved by the late Mr. Rennie, is both plain and simple in its application and construction. We can- not supply a better description than that furnished by Mr. Smith, the resident engineer at this port. ^' *The bell is made of cast-iron, and weighs four tons, two hundred; it is six feet long, four broad, and five high ; and contains one hundred and twenty cubic feet. To admit light, it has twelve convex lenses in- serted in its top, each of which is eight inches in dia- meter; and when sunk in clear water, the light within is sufficient to enable the diver to read the smallest print, or even to perform the neatest needle-work. — Jn the centre of the tops is a hole for the admission of air; to this is attached a leather hose, long enough to reach any depth ; the other end of it is attached to a forcing air-pump, which is worked by four men, during the time the bell remains under water; by this means, the persons in the bell are supplied with a sufficient quantity of air, to make respiration pleasant. Within the bell, directly over the pole which admits the air, is screwed a piece of stout leather, so that the * " Observations on Diving Machines;'' a work replete with useful and interesting information. DEVONSHIRE. 183 air enters only through the spaces between the screws. This leather prevents the admitted air from returning through the liose ; and in case the hose should burst, the water cannot enter the bell through the air-hole ; the divers are therefore secured against any accident which might otherwise proceed from this cause. The bell contains a sufficient quantity of air to support the per.wns within it, without the assistance of the air- pump, till they can be raised from any depth. " When the bell is overcharged with air, it escapes under its edge, and from its expansive nature, agitates the water as it ascends. This is generally, but er- roneously, considered the escaping of foul air; but the respired air being lightest, ascends to the top of the bell. In consequence of the continual current of air passing through the bell from top to bottom, no unpleasant sensation can be experienced, from what is generally imagined to be foul air. " The bell is furnished with a moveable seat at each end, and a narrow board across the lower part to rest the feet on ; there are also hooks, and a small shelf for the workmen's tools; and in the top, are two eye- bolts, to secure such heavy weights as may be neces- sary to raise with the bell. " There is nothing either difficult or hazardous in the use of this machine, provided care be taken that the tackles, &c. are of sufficient size and quality to support its weight; and that an attentive man is stationed to receive the signals, and to give directions to the men employed on the stage, or in the vessel, from which the bell is suspended. When it is found necessary to alter the position of the bell, the divers strike it with n hammer. There are eight signals used for the following purposes. " One stroke to indicate that there is not a sufficient quantity of air in the bell, and that it is necessary to work the air-pump faster. "Two strokes to annul n former signal ; or to leave off doing any thing till another signal is given. '' Three strokes to raise the bell. R2 184 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF " Four to lower it. ** Five to move it to the right. " Six to the left. " Seven, backwards. " Eight, forwards. " Other methods are resorted to, such as the use of small buoys, &c. for making more complicated signals on subjects of less frequent occurrence. " It should be observed, that in executing works under water with the diving-bell, the water ought to be transparent; so much so, at least, that objects lying two or three feet below the bell, may be clearly seen before the machine touches them in its descent. An artificial light, it is obvious, can be of no use in viewing objects through foul water. In cases where a candle can be applied with advantage, the object must be raised within the cavity of the bell. It is therefore essential to the executing of works, viewing ground, &c. that the water be transparent; when this is the case, a cloud passing over the sun is perceptible in deep water. " The hours, in which the workmen are employed under w^ater are, in the summer, from seven in the morning till twelve at noon, and from one to six in the evening. In the winter, they work as long as they can see, with the exception of an hour allowed for taking refreshment." Mr. Smith, in his repeated descents, has frequently made observations on the effect produced on the thermometer. He states, that " on the loth of Sep- tember, 1819, the thermometer stood at G5°, in de- scending it rose to 70; during four hours stay under water, it stood at 69, and in ascending it varied to 68. On the 17th of the same month, it stood in the open air at 54; in descending it rose to 67; during five hours stay it stood at 66 ; and in ascending it varied to 67. On the 21st, in the open air, it stood at 55; in descending it rose to 69; and during five hours and a half stay, under water, it stood at 68. " On taking down one of the best kind of barometers, DEVONSHIKE. 185 tlie mercury was observed to rise very rapidly as soon as the bell closed with the water, aud before it was wholly immc-rsed, the mercury was pressed firmly against the top of the tube. It being then high water and spring tides, the bell descended to the depth of eight fathoms; and during the five hours the men con- tinued at their work, the barometer underwent no visible alteration ; when tlie bell was raised near the surface, the mercury began to subside; and when ex- posed to the open air, it resumed the same position as it occupied before it was placed in the bell." These observations were made when three persons were in the bell. Among other submarine operations in which this machine has been employed, that of surveying the bottom, for various purposes, has been frequently per- formed with the most successful and satisfactory re- snlts. On the North Jetty is a landing-place, called the North-stairs, near which is a house, v/here pitch is kept continually boiling for the use of the caulkers, to be applied to the bottoms and seams of ships. The double-dock, which is the first of three very near each other, for line of battle ships, is so deno- minated from its being sufficiently large to contain two ships at the same time, one a-head of the other ; but so divided by gates, that though water be let into the outer division, the inner continues perfectly dry. The dock-gates, by which the water is kept out of the docks, form, uhen closed, the segment of a circle, with its convex side towards the sea. They are niade of timber, very strongly put together, and are hung on each side of tiie mouth of the dock. As soon as a ship is taken into dock, which is always at high water, the gates are shut and locked : the water within the dock then runs out through sluices made for the pur- pose, till the ebb tide has ceased ; the sluices are then shut, and the water which may still remain is thrown out bv engines on the plan of pun)ps, worked by the il3 186 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF assistance of horses. The pressore of the sea agauist the gates is immense, consequently, from their form, they are always kept tight together. When a ship is to be taken out of dock, the sluices are opened, and the water flows in till its height is equal, both within and without; the gates are then opened with ease, though scarcely any force could otherwise accomplish it. The ships are hove in and out by means of hawsers and capstans, and always ground in the dock on wooden blocks placed for that purpose. The second dock, called the Union, or North Dock, is 239 feet four inches long, eighty-six feet seven inches wide, and twenty-six feet ten inches deep. This was made in the year 1762 ; and is faced with Portland stone, having blocks of granite to support the shores. The New Union, or North New Dock, 259 feet nine inches long, eighty-five feet three inches wide, and twenty-seven feet eight inches deep, was made in the year 1789, and is on the same plan with the above; both these docks, and all the new part of the yard, were built by the late able architect Mr. Barlby. The Dock-yard has been considerably extended to the south within the last ten years, where an entire new building slip and different erections have been added. Not far from the head of the new dock is a burning place for old copper, that has been removed from ships' bottoms at the time of repairing them. Farther northward are the plumbers', braziers', and armourers' shops; and the bricklayers' and stonecutters' yards. Behind all this side of the yard, the rock, having never been levelled, is very high and irregular: on it are a few sheds and storehouses. The levelling so large a piece of ground as the Dock- yard occupies, must have been attended with prodi- gious labour, particularly the gun>wharf, which is hewn out of some schistose rocks to the depth of thirty feet or more. The Gun-wharf is separated from the Dock- yard by North Corner-street; it was begun about the year 1718, and completed about 1725. The build- DEVONSHIRE. 187 ings are in general good, but very heavy, and in the Dutch style ; they were projected by Sir John Van- brugh, who was then attached to the ordnance depart- ment. The quantity of ground within the walls is four acres and three quarters, and is held on the same terms as the Dock-yard, at an annual rent. Here are two principal storehouses, of three stories high, for muskets, pistols, grape-shot, and other small stores, a number of sheds for gun carriages, &c. and a powder magazine, with a cooperage detached; but which, since the erection of the magazines at Keyham Point, have been used for storehouses. In times of peace, a very considerable part of the British navy are laid up in ordinary in Hamoaze, and constitute, by their number and disposition, a very interesting spectacle. This bay is about four miles in length, and, in general, about half a mile broad, with a bottom of mud; its greatest depth at high water is between eighteen and twenty fathoms. Below the Creek, which runs up to Weston-Mills, is the Powder Magazine, consisting of several limestone buildings, erected with every precaution to prevent accidents by fire or lightning. Proceeding along the avenue a quarter of a mile, conducts to an open space between the rope-houses and the stables, and gardens belonging to the officers of the establishment. By the orders of the present commissioner, this spot, which was originally a muddy stagnant pool, has been metamorphosed into a neat parterre. By following the same route a little farther, between the stables and the gardens, we reach the flagged footpath before described. The grand tour has now been made, and if the track were traced, the geometrician would find that the run of the harbour is nearly the periphery of a semi-ellipsis ; while the long avenue would become its conjugate diameter. If we still follow this footpath, it will conduct us to the angle of the paved road, at which the route commenced, and from thence down the declivity of the hill. Descending in this direction, 188 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCUIPTION OF we have the officers' houses above, on the left; and on the right, beneath, the mast-houses already described. To the south, the road conducts to the Mould-loft, which is a department of great interest and curiosity, as it is here that " the mighty fabric first receives its form." The several parts necessary in the construction of a ship, are here first delineated in chalk, and being subsequently formed in thin deal, they are distributed as models to the respective inechanics. From this spot we perceive beneath, the bason in which the canal terminates at the distance of 420 yards from its mouth. On the north side of this bason, which is separated from the inner mast-pond by a broad causeway, are the boat-houses, where the boats of the fleet are pre- pared and kept ready for service. In front, is a paved way similar to that attached to the mast-houses, whereon the boats are drawn up out of the bason. This may be considered as a position central in the area of the grand tour, and could not have been vi- sited at first, without losing sight of several interesting objects. By ascending a flight of steps we shall gain the level in front of the officers' dwelling-houses, which is a handsome row of buildings, adorned with naval tro- phies, and other architectural decorations. The re- sidence of the commissioner is in the centre, and the other houses are occupied by several principal officers of the establishment. The offices of the commissioner and the clerk of the cheque, project at right, angles, at each extremity, and form wings to the main range of the buildings. A pavement and gravel-walk shaded by an avenue of lime trees, afford a delightful pro- menade in front; and the internal conveniences of these edifices is increased by the appendages of gar- dens, stables, and other commodious offices. Many important and judicious improvements, be- sides those already noticed, have been very recently introduced into this vard. A plan was invented by Sir Robert Seppings, during the period in which he DEVONSHIRE. 189 ccupied tlie situation of builder's assistant, in this arsenal, for repairing the keels of vessels with great. ucility. Previously to his invention, a number of :nen were employed to raise a line-of-battle ship, by means of wooden wedges, driven by large sledge iiam- mers. Instead of timber. Sir Robert has used iron wedges, and by these means, and the peculiar con- struction of the docks, the object is attained by the assistance of thirty men, which could not be effected, according to the old plan, by less than four hundred. I'wo docks which were fitted up on this plan, with wedges, &c. for each, amounted to little more than the expence of raising a ship by the former method. This consideration, although of great importance, is of less consequence than the saving of labour, which on many occasions is a very material object. This will be observed in the bustle and activity that per- vades every department of the arsenal, in time of war, when the necessity for expedition, on some particular emergencies, is so imperious, that the artificers, ac- cording to the technical phrase, frequently work txco for one, and sometimes three for one. On these oc- casions, they perform twice or thrice the accustomed quota of work in one day. Improvements have also taken place in point of economy at this arsenal. The old coj)per, which is stripped from the bottoms of ships, is submitted to the action of fire, to remove the weeds, 6«:c. the refuse resulting from this process was formerly thrown away as useless, but it having been ascertained, that valuable metallic particles were contained in the rubbish, it has been since sold at a considerable price. A salutary regulation has taken place with regard to the chips which the artificers were allowed to carry out of the yard as a perquisite. It was found that the bundles of chips frequently contained good timber, and an order was issued to discontinue this practice entirely, and to allow the shipwrights a weekly stipend in lieu of this privilege. The chips are now exposed to public sale at stated intervals, and we doubt ao.t 190 lOPOGllAPIIIC.VL DESCftlPTIOS OF the adoption of this wise regulation lias heen the means ot' preventing crime, by removing tlie facilities for depredation which the former system afforded. The number of persons of every class who pursue their respective avocations in the yard, is upwards of three thousand. The whole are under the controul of the commissioner, to whose excellent arrangements may be imputed the great order and regularity, which cannot fail to excite the admiration of visitors. The principal otiicers, residents in the yard, cannot sleep without the precincts unless by leave of the commissioner. The night-patroles, which are selected from the class of men called labourers, are under the superintendance of these othcers, who discharge this duty in rotation. Two master-attendants, and a master-shipwright's assistant, are also considered su- perior officei*s, although their residences are -in the town. The Dock-yard is constructed on ground belonging to Sir J. St. Aubyn, and tlie lease is nearly expired. (A newspaper is now published weekly on Thursday, under the revived title of " The Plymouth Dock. Weekly Journal." The Post Office is in George-street. A two-penny post having been lately established, in conformity to its regulations, a messenger leaves Dock at eleven in the forenoon daily, calls at Stonehouse, and proceeds to Plymouth. At three in the afternoon, a messenger starts from Plymouth, calls at Stonehouse, and pro- ceeds thence to Dock. The letters are delivered im- mediately, so as to be in time for a reply by the Cornish mail. The office is shut at seven in the evening. Dock, as before observed, is bounded on the east and north sides by a ditch and regular fortifications. Between these and the town a very considerable portion of ground is occupied by government for bar- racks, storehouses, &c. The grounds between these buildings and the fortifications, form the general pro- menade of the inhabitants. All round the lines the DEVONSHlllE. 191 V lews are higl)ly diversified and pleasing. The walls of the new fortifications, on the north side, are an ndniirable piece of workmanship. Granby and Marl- borough barracks, with the magazines, naturally excite attention. At the eastern extremity is the fine parade or bastion occasioned by the angular course of the lines. In this bastion are several mortars of a large calibre. Ascending the ramparts, in pursuing our walk to Mount Wise, the principal promenade, we first pass the neat hospital for the train of artillery on the right; and immediately after on our left, the guard-house at the barrier-gate, which serves for the assistance of the magistracy, in case of riots. Crossing the top of Fore- street, and following the course of the lines, we pass three batteries on our left, and then Ligonier-square, occupied by the engineers ; Frederic-square for artil- lery, and Cumberland-square for infantry on our right. Here are to be seen the Military Infirmary and the offices and workshops belonging to government. Mount Wise, the next place to the barrier on the left, is a large tract of ground on the south side of the town, containing many military works. The surface is very irregular, and the soil an entire rock, covered with a layer of earth, not more than eight inches deep. It has four entrances from the town, but the principal of these is at the south end of George-street. Upon the grand parade here, all the troops in the vicinity are reviewed on public days ; and the guards parade every morning. This is a very general place of resort among young people, and is absolutely thronged on Sunday evenings. From the battery at the east end there are good views of Stonehouse, Ply- mouth, the Sound ; and from those at the south and south-west end, a cliarming prospect of Mount Edg- cumbe, and the lower part of the harbour. Government House is a large plain building of three stories, with two wings of two stories, and offices detached. The front of the house towards the parade is lighted by lamps, fixed on the muzzles of large 192 TOPOGIIAPHICAL DESCRlrTION Of pieces of ordnance, which are placed perpendicuhirly in the ground. Near the chief entrance is a brass gun of great magnitude, taken from the Turks in the memorable action of the Dardanelles. The Admiral's House is at the north-west corner of the parade, smaller than the Government House, having only two wings joining to the centre building ; but in the front of this are two batteries, one of four forty-two pounders, the other of eight guns and three mortars. Further to the westward, the ground rising to a point, is crowned by a fort, encompassed on the land side by a very small trench, and defended by a Serjeant's guard; immediately behind this is the Telegraph. On the west side is another battery, which, including those in the grounds of Government House, dec. form an almost impregnable barrier to any attempts on the safety of the town or shipping, from the sea-coast. From the south-west corner of the parade, a short diagonal road leads to Richmond Walk, a beautiful promenade, turning at irregular angles over the rocks, along the sea-coast, near half a mile in length; having a wall about nine feet high at the back, and another of four feet in the front. The average width of the walk is fourteen feet. Every turn presents 3 delight- ful prospect to strangers. The Admiral's Hard is anew landing-place for boats of his Majesty's navy ; to the left of this is another landing-place for the convenience of the public, and a building for the shelter of boats, &c. on the right. Richmond seu'baths, situate on a beautiful beach op- posite Mount Edgcumbe, were projected and com- pleted by a public-spirited individual, in a most res- pectable style, not inferior to any in the west of England. There are hot and cold-baths, and ma- chines, the latter generally allowed to be the largest and best contrived in England. A work so highly conducive to the pleasure and convenience of the in- habitants of the town and its vicinity, deserves every encouragement. Richmond Walk is terminated at each end by quays, &c. DEVONSHIRE. 193 Morice-town is situated on the north side of the Dock, and contains three principal streets and other buildings, mostly erected during the late war. A row of neat houses, called the new Navy Row, joins it to Stoke Village, where are several tea-houses and gardens. The Block-house stands in an elevated and command- ing situation behind the village, and is capable of an- noying the approach of armies from any quarter. Proceeding through Stoke, about a mile from that village on the left, is Manadon-house, the seat of Captain Waldron of the royal navy. The house lies low, and has nothing particular in its construction ; but nevertheless appears respectable from the road. From this place we proceed by a direct road, passing through Knockers Knoll, and Jump, two villages, the former of which is inhabited by very respectable per- sons towards Roborough Down, where we have an opportunity of viewing some of the objects on the river Tavy. Jump is about two miles distant from the road, Roborough Down is an extensive common or waste in the western district of the county. The soil is black growan, clay, boggy or gravelly. The substrata is of sehislus and marble, which succeed alternately to the sea-side at Plymouth. The Royal Military Hospital is contiguous to Stoke Church ; this consists of four noble piles of building three stories high, connected by a fine terrace, and inclosed by a lofty wall. The Royal Hospital for sick and hurt seamen and marines, is a handsome assemblage of buildings on the north side of the road leading to Plymouth. The Marine Barracks are of an oblong form, on the south-east part of the town, with an excellent parade, which is much resorted to in summer evenings on account of the excellent band of musicians attached to the corps. From the north end of this building is the nezo road to Plymouth which, though more cir- cuitous than the usual route, is much more pleasant, as it commands on one side, views of Plymouth, Dock, S 194 TOPOGRAPIIICAI- DESCniPTlON OF .Stoke, and the surrounding country, and on the other Mount Edgcumbe, the Sound, &c. At the end of this new road is Mill Prison, for the confinement of prisoners of war. From hence three roads branch off to Plymouth. From Dock there is a ferry over theTamar, called the Cremill Passage, in the parish of Maker, which, though joined to a part of Cornwall, is itself in Devonshire. When the traveller has gratified his curiosity with the Dock-yards of Plymouth, and the Breakwater, Mount Edgcumbe will be one of the next objects of attention. The promontory of IVIount Edgcumbe, running a considerable way into the sea, forms one of the cheeks of the entrance of Haraoaze harbour, which is here half a mile across. The whole promontory is four or five miles long, and three broad ; in shape a perfect dorsum, high in the middle, and sloping gradually on both sides towards the sea. In some places it is rocky and abrupt. The entrance into the grounds from the landing place at Cremill Passage, is at the bottom of an avenue, terminating in a spacious lawn, irregularly hounded by fine trees, and widening gradually as it rises towards the house. It has been observed that " many persons of real taste and curiosity, for want of a conductor to direct them in their walks round the grounds of Mount Edgcumbe, and to explain the different views, arrive at only a small portion of the place, see they know not what, and feel dissatisfied at last with having seen and known so little." To obviate every objection of this nature is the design of the following pages. Strangers and travellers desirous of seeing the place, can, by application, obtain permission on any day to walk in the park and pleasure-grounds. The flower- garden may be seen occasionally during the summer, by a particular ticket, granted only to parties not exceeding six persons. The house is never shewn. The tour round the park may be performed in a carriage ; but as walkers only are admitted at the lower lodge, strangers must, in that case, go up the DEVONSHIRE. i95 public road to another entrance adjoining that at tlie park-gate. The following measurement of the principal roads and walks, will enable the stranger to ascertain the length of the tour he would wish to make, and tliereby direct him in his choice : Miles. Great tour of the Park from the Lodge by the ^ White Seat, Redding Point, Maker Church, > 4 and the Terrace • j Tour of the Park and Terrace by the church road 3f From the Lodge to Redding Point, and return ) by the Zigzags and Terrace $ Tour of the pleasure-grounds from the house by ^ ^ j the Amphitheatre and garden to the Lodge S "^ From the house by the Home Terrace to the ^ Arch, and return by the lower Zigzags and > 2 Cottage Walk, to the Lodge . • • •" i The beauties of this delightful spot are, in some Jneasure, pourtrayed in the following elegant lines ad- dressed to the late Countess of Edgcumbe on her birth-day : Return then, beauteous noble dame. Once more thy former homage claim ; Ev'n now the yet unfinish'd bower Solicits thy creative power: New arches and parterres to range. So as to form a pleasing change; Now a gay rainbow o'er the head, Now a rich carpet underspread. Return, return illustrious fair, Resume thy wonted fost'ring care ; Another Proserpine be found Delighted on botanic ground. But to return to the house : this stands high up on the side of the hill, and is at once picturesque and appropriate to its situation. It is a building of con- siderable antiquity, having been erected about the ye^r 1550 by Sir Richard Edgcumbe, Knt. in the S2 196 TOPOGRAPHICAL Dr.SCRIPTION OF castellated siyle, battlementecl, with round towers at the corners; but these being small and inconvenient, xvere pulled down in the middle of the last century, and rebuilt in their present octangular form. The ornaments round the doors and windows are of granite, or raoor-stone, as also the flight of steps ascending to the principal front. The interior contains nothing remarkable except the -hall in the centre, which was originally Gothic, and reached up to the roof: but it has long been modernised, and is now a handsome lofty room of two stories, of different orders, with galleries supported by columns of Devonshire marble. The chimney-pieces, tables, and terms, bearing busts of Italian workmanship, copied from the antique, exhibit fine specimens of various Cornish granites. This saloon, which from its singular yet agreeable proportions, as well as from its architectural decora- tions, has a noble and striking effect, is occasionally used as a summer dining-room, and is also peculiarly adapted for music, for which purpose a large and excellent organ is erected in one of the galleries. The rest of the old house has no pretensions to mag- nificence, but the northern and eastern sides are extremely chearful and pleasant, from the variety of delightful views they command, which the towers in particular are admirably calculated for shewing to the greatest advantage. An extensive addition has been made, at different times, to the west end, con- taining among other convenient apartments, a large library, and a dining-room, which, from their southern aspect, are more especially suited for a winter resi- dence. The new wing presents a handsome, though not strictly regular, elevation ; but it is so concealed as not to alter the original appearance of the building, when viewed as a feature in the prospect, nor injure its general character of antiquity. The principal, or northern side of the house can be approached only by walking up the lawn ; but a road is carried along the avenue to the foot of the hill, whence bending to die right, it leads through pleasing DEVONSHIRE. 197 glades, bordered with stately chesnut and other bees, to the southern, or back front : and also, leaving the house at a small distance on the left, conducts to the principal entrance of the park. There are three entrances to the grounds; one, for pedestrians, at the bottom of the hill, at Cremill ; another for carriages, about half a mile up the public road, leading to Cawsand, &c. and a third from the water, at Barnpool. The grounds are open to the public in general, on Mondays; but may be viewed on any other day by application to the steward, at the house. We are persuaded that no one can traverse Mount Edgcumbe, with a proper guide, without being highly delighted by the countless and diversified beau- ties which it displays. On entering the park two roads present themselves, that to the left proceeds with an easy ascent in the midst of a fine grove, till after crossing another branch, it rises more rapidly through a wood of a wilder and more rugged character, looking down a steep declivity on the left into a beautiful valley; and on reaching the summit of the hill, suddenly breaks out on the prospect at the White Seat. From this commanding spot the view is most ex- tensive, and the whole circumjacent country is ex- panded at your feet. Hence yoti completely and dis- tinctly overlook the Hamoaze, and the whole course of the river Tamar as high as the town of Saltash; the ships in the harbour; the dock-yard and town of Dock; the fortifications and Government House; the church and village of Stoke ; the Military Hospital ; Stonehouse, with the Naval Hospital and Marine Barracks; the citadel and churches of Plymouth; Saltram, the seat of the Earl of Morley ; Catwater, with its shipping, enclosed by Mount Batten; St. Nicholas's Island, the Sound and Statton Heights be- yond it; the whole view is bounded by a range of lofty hills, among which the round top of Hingston (or Hengist) Down, the peaked-head of Brent-Tor, and S3 198 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF the irregular summits of Dartmoor, are the most elevated and conspicuous. At this place the gravel-walk ceases ; and you enter on a grass drive, which is carried round the whole summit of the hill, and conducts straight forward to Redding Point, whence is discovered a prospect of a totally different description. An unbounded expanse of open sea here bursts upon the sight, confined only by S tatton Heights and the Mew-stone on the left, and on the right by Penlee Point, under which lies Cavvsand Bay, with the little town from whence it takes its name. The Breakwater, constructed for the security of ships anchoring in the Sound, aj>- pears immediately in front, and in clear weather the Eddystone light-house is visible at a great distance in the offing. A thatched seat affords here another resting place. Opposite to this, but concealed by the brow of the hill, a gate opens into the zigzag walks. From this eastern extremity of the hill, the winds drive round the southern side in a bold and beautiful sweep, following the natural curves of the ground, and commanding, in various points of view, the prospect last described, till it reaches the western boundary of the park. If the walker prefer returning by the northern side, he will discover, as he proceeds westward beyond the White Seat, new prospects opening on his view, of the several rivers and estuaries branching out of the Hamoaze, of the village of JNIillbrook, and of a great extent of well cultivated country. Part of VVhitsand Bay is discernible over the narrow isthmus that con- nects the peninsula of JMount Edgcumbe with Corn- wall, and the long range of elevated coast, which forms its further boundary, is distinctly seen. At the upper park-gate, just outside the enclosure, stands the parish church of Maker, of which the high tower is a conspicuous object for many miles round, and is used (in time of war), as a signal-house for giving notice of - DEV0K3HIEE. 195 kind's ships coming to the port, or passing along the channel. Both ends of the grass drive terminate in a gravel- road, which, having ascended the hill by a shorter cut, traverses the park at its western extremity. Turning along this to the left hand towards the southern side, you are conducted, by a gentle descent, with Cawsand Day in front, the town of that name, the surrounding hills, and the redoubts on Maker heights opening on the view as you advance, round a winding valley called Hoe-Lake, wild and finely shaped, with a cottage under a tuft of trees at the bottom, which adds to its picturesque effect. Being arrived about halfway down the hill, a short turn to the left leads to the entrance of the Great Terrace; and the road proceeds on a perfect level through plantations of fir and other trees, with the sea at a great depth below on the right, till another sharp turn discovers Pickle Combe. This little valley is so regularly scooped out by Nature, as almost to bear the appearance of art. Its sides above the road are planted with various trees ; the lower part thickly overspread with heath, and other wild plants : down the centre runs a grass walk. At the upper end stands a picturesque building over- grown with ivy, composed of old moor-stone arches, niches, and pinnacles, to represent a ruined chapel. From the seat in it you look down this singularly formed vale, beyond the opening of which no object whatever appears but a wide expanse of sea. Leaving this most solitary spot, the terrace leads round the other side of the valley, and at the next comer we are in the midst of a plantation of the finest flowering shrubs; tlie arbutus, the laurustinus, the Portugal laurel, and other evergreens, growing with the greatest luxuriance to an uncommon size, and covering the whole of the abrupt cliff as far down as the soil allows of vegetation, the sea dashing against the rocks below. Not a deciduous plant appears, and this singular spot, protected from every cold blast, and 200 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF fully open to the south, retains its charms equally through every season of the ^ear. The road continues winding amidst this romantic shrubbery, offering fresh beauties at every turn, till you arrive at the Arch, where a stone seat placed at the edge of an almost perpendicular precipice, commands a fine view over the Sound immediately at your feet, with the open sea to the right; St. Nicholas's Island, Plymouth, &:c. to the left. At this place are the principal ascent and descent to the Zigzag Walks, which are cut in the side of the hill both above and below the Terrace, extending upwards to Redding Point, where they enter the park, and downwards as low as the cliff is practi- cable. By the lower Zigzags you may return to the bottom of Pickle Combe, from whence they are again continued as far as Hoe- Lake. From the number and intricacy of these walks, it is not possible to describe them accurately, or give directions what paths to pur- sue ; but every part of them is extremely beautiful, and almost every turn discovers some fresh view, from the variety of the rocks which form the coast, and from the different partial peeps caught through the trees and shrubs. The further part of them, beyond Pickle Combe, is more open, and of a wilder character than those on the nearer side of that valley, and com- mand the best view of Cawsand Bay, as also of the whole southern side of the hill. The new, or Upper Zigzags, are, if possible, still more beautiful than the lower; the cliff in parts being more abrupt, the shrubs more luxuriant, and the views, from the height whence they are seen, more magnificent and commanding. At the very summit, a bench, placed on a prominent point of rock, overlooks the whole side of the almost perpendicular precipice, clothed with its rich covering of arbutus and other evergreens, which seem to dip their luxuriant branches into the boundless expanse of sea extended beneath. No point, perhaps, is so bold and truly grand as this, but the ascent to it, especially on one side, is rather steep and tremendous. These upper walks are divided into three principal branches. DEVOKSIIIRE. 201 bile already noticed, a second ascending from the other side of the Arch by stairs in the rock, and a third joining the Terrace at the corner of Pickle Corabe. Notwithstanding the steepness of the chff, the whole of the Zigzag Walks are so conducted as to be perfectly safe and easy, and numberless benches afford opportunities of rest to the walker disposed to explore and enjoy their infinite variety of beauties. There are also covered seats interspersed among them, all in character with the surrounding scenery. Having regained the Terrace, we pass under the Arch (a building constructed so as to appear like a perforation of the natural rock, which seems here to Dar the passage), and soon quitting this inclosed part, enter a thick and deep wood, which totally excludes all view, and affords a pleasing rest to the eye, after the glare of the brilliant scenes it has been so long Contemplating. From this shade you again unex- pectedly burst forth on the rich prospect at a pro- minent point of the park, on which stands the Ruin, representing the imperfect remains of a tower with a large Gothic window. The objects which here pre- sent themselves are the same that were seen from the first station at the White Seat, with the addition of the Mew-Stone, and a considerable extent of sea. But the prospect now opens gradually as you wind round the point, and varies in appearance from being brought nearer to the eye, and viewed from a lower level. It is worth while to go up to a platform on the building (which is ascended by an easy stair), from whence a delightful panorama is discovered. On the one hand the wood you have just passed through, on the other the beautiful wooded valley first noticed, are from hence completely overlooked, and with their rich variety of foliage furm a charming foreground to the distant picture presented on three sides, whilst the view on the fourth is finely bounded by the boldly rising hill, and wild scenery of the park. From this point the terrace proceeds into the wood, and making the circuit of the head of the valley. 202 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF joins the road by which we first ascended the hill, and conducts back to the house. The third branch connects the two principal roads that ascend the hill ; and also leads to a private gate of the park, from whence it passes into an extensive drive through other woods, and round the farm-grounds. But if the walker chooses to pursue it, he may go down to the gate by the other road through a fine piece of ground, hitherto little seen, which commands extensive and varied prospects, though of a less bold and romantic character than those he has left. From a walk round the lower part of this quarter of the park, is obtained the nearest and best view of Ha- moaze, which here presents a wide and finely shaped piece of water, at once beautiful and interesting from the large portion of the British navy securely moored within its spacious haven : hence too the dock-yard is completely overlooked, with the village of Torpoint on the opposite side of the river. More westward, Ivlillbrook, at the head of its winding estuary, forms a pleasing little picture, confined towards the south by the hill, clothed with a long range of wood, not seen from any other point, and connected with the planta- tions of the park. Returning towards the house, its pinnacles are seen rising in a picturesque manner above the trees, and tlie various distant objects open on the sight, as you wind round a beautifully shaped knoll. To go from the Zigzags, the walkers, instead of re- ascending to the Great Terrace from the Zigzags, will take a path cut round the perpendicular cliff under the Arch (which, though so tremendous in appearance as to be called the Horrors, is yet sufficiently wide to be perfectly safe), and enter the open park below the wood through which the drive is carried. This walk, commanding in all its extent a very fine view of the Sound and surrounding objects, to which this wild part of the park is a beautiful foreground, leads to the Cottage, a neat thatched building placed at the foot of the wood, and overhung by some beautiful ever* DEVONSHIRE. 203 green oaks. In it there is a room for resting, the windows of which look out on pleasing views, the one of the Mew-Stone, the other of the Island. Passing from hence under the Ruin before-mentioned, which has here a good effect, the walk soon approaches the cliff, and proceeds through plantations on its eds;e, with some steep ascents and descents, catching peeps at various parts of the prospects, and looking down on some fine coves and picturesque points of rock, till it enters the home grounds, and joins the walks, to the description of which we now proceed. In the pleasure-grounds, the first striking object is the Shruhhery, situated on the eminence immediately behind the house, and connected with its southern front. It lies on a gentle declivity, and the walk round it affords a pleasing variety, from the easy swell and constant inequality of the ground ; for some space too it commands a fine prospect. Towards the fur- ther end of the garden, whence all view is excluded, stands a bower, with an arcade of trellis advancing over the walk, covered with creeping plants, which forms an agreeable shady retreat; and in a still more retired part is a semi-circular covered seat, faced and lined with petrifactions and spars from rocks in the neighbourhood, intermixed with shells and various fossils, chiefly the produce of Cornwall. The arbutus and other shrubs grow here with remarkable luxuriance, and the ground is also ornamented with several fine cedars of Libanus. This small, but pleasing feature of the place, is rarely shewn to strangers. Commencing the tour round the lower grounds at the eastern end of the house, you first enter on a wide gravel-walk, called the Home Terrace, which bounds the upper side of the lawn, and overlooking the vene- rable groves below it, commands a delightful pros- pect of the Harbour, Sound, and surrounding country. From thence suddenly turning to the right, you proceed round the valley before alluded to, which, from its shape, is distinguished by the name of the Amphitheatre. Having, by a gentle rise through a tl)ick wood of L'Oi TOPOGRAPUItAL DESCRIPTION OF the finest trees, reached the centre of the valley, the walk descends as gradually round the other side, to a rustic thatched seat, built of unhewn trees, and lined with moss, from which you look into the deep bosom of the vale, catching also a glimpse of the water through the trees, and of some of the buildings on the opposite shore. Here the walk makes a sudden turn, descending in a contrary direction to recross the valley, and soon after it divides into two branches: the one proceeding forward in a regular sweep round the wood to the opposite side, conducts back to the great lawn in front of the house; the other, returning again on the same side, carries you down to the lower end of the valley (where it is joined by the walk from the cottage by the cliffs), and when arrived at the water*s edge, crosses the bottom of this noble Amphitheatre, which from hence is seen to the greatest advantage. The lawn, which occupies the bottom of the valley, rishig in a regular curve and beautiful swell all round, loses itself by degrees in the semi-circle of wood, which towers above to a great height, affording every variety of form and foliage, from the number of forest and exotic trees of all descriptions, in which it abounds. On the left hand, at a small distance from the walk, stands the Temple of Milton, an Ionic rotunda, half closed, and supported in front by four open columns. Within it are the following lines from his Paradise Lost, exactly descriptive of the spot : " Over head up grew Insuperable height of loftiest shade, Cedar, and fir, and pine, and branching palm, A sylvan scene; and as the ranks ascend Shade above shade, a woody theatre Of stateliest view." This place also gave birth to the following Address to Milton : Due to thy verse beyond all praise, Thy zealous votary. Great Bard ! this dome presumes to raise. And dedicates to thee ; DEVONSHIRE. 205 I3ut not as if thy vot'ry thought A pyramid in size, • Were it of Parian marble wrought, Could thee immortalize. Yet yonders mountain scenery, By Nature's hand design'd, Gives to the rapt spectator's eye, An image of thy mind. For sure the self-same plastic power That rear'd the mountain's site, Bade thine aspiring genius tow'r To Empyrean height. From the association of this spot the traveller of taste will also enter into the feelings which dictated the following stanzas : And well, O Milton! is thy honoured bust, Placed the deep twilight of these shades among; For though far off repose the Poet's dust, Here lingers still the spirit of his song; And oft at Eve these high arcades along To Fancy's dreaming eye his form will glide. While ev'n the depth of stillness finds a tongue; And sounds unearthly float upon the tide, Or in faint murmurs die along the dark hill side. The external prospect forms a beautiful scene from every part of this theatre, presenting Barnpool closed in on all sides by the irregular coast which surrounds it, with its various promontories and inlets, offering thus the appearance of a large lake, whilst numerous vessels constantly in motion, give life and variety to this charming picture. Amongst the fine trees which adorn this valley, several tulip trees, Oriental and Occidental planes of a remarkable size, a large cedar of Libanus, and a Carolina poplar of extraordinary height, ought particularly to be noticed. The Amphitheatre may also be seen to great ad- vantage another way. A walk descending across the lawn from the Home Terrace, leads into the Beech- walk, a beautiful winding avenue, from which you look ^ T 200 TOPOGRAPHICAL DEbCRIPTION OF down on the left through an open grove of fine oak, beech, and other trees, on Barnpool and its surround- ing scenery, partially caught in numerous delightful peeps, forming as many different little pictures. At the end of this walk (from whence a short communi- cation leads on the left to the lower grounds), winding to the right, on the same level, you enter an avenue of horse chesnut trees, which soon brings you to the valley ; and proceeding round it under another arch of lofty beeches, join the walk before described, taking only the low er circle. Or, to take a still shorter way, you may descend immediately from the end of the Beech-walk to the bottom of the valley. On leaving this fine feature of the place, the walk proceeds through the wood in a gradual sweep on the edge of the cliff, which forms a succession of coves overhung with the finest old trees, whose boughs almost touch the water, to another lawn at the private landing-place in Barnpool : and shortly after, to an iron railing and gate, the entrance into the garden, which without a particular conductor, the stranger cannot enter, but must go round to another. The first object that here strikes the eye, and to which the walk immediately conducts you, is the Block-house, standing on the point of land which forms one side of the narrowest part of the entrance into the Harbour. It was built, with two or three others, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, for the defence of the port, and is now a picturesque ruin, covered with ivy, i^gainst one of its sides, a plain portico of two moor- stone columns has been erected for a seat, and in front of it is a saluting battery of twenty-one guns. A tablet in the wall gives the Ibllowing description from " C AREw's Survey of Cornwall, A. D. 1G02 :" " Both sides of the narrow entrance are fenced with Block-houses, and that next Mount Edgcumbe was wont to be planted with ordnance, which at coming and parting, with their base voices greeted such guests as vibited the house." The other Block-house here spoken of, is still stand- DEVONSHIRE. 207 ingon the opposite rocks; a modern redoubt has been erected on the hill above it. The battery was restored in 1747, but was again entirely remounted in 1800, with French eight-pounders, all purchased from prizes. The view from this spot is most delightful, compre- hending all Barnpool, and the Sound, the Island, Mount Batten, and Mew-stone, with the open sea beyond. Hence, too, a large portion of the hill^ and woods of the place itself, are seen to the greatest ad- vantage, with the towers of the house rising above the trees in which it appears embosomed. No single view, perhaps, exhibits so much variety as this, and from the continual passing of vessels of all descriptions, from the first-rate man-of-war to the smallest boat, none is so animated and interesting. Before we pursue further the walk leading onwards from the Point, we must make a digression to the interior parts of the garden, to which you are con- ducted by a walk leading to the upper side of the lawn, where a terrace runs along by the edge of the shrubbery : at the further end of this, a walk turns into the plantation, from which, very soon after, a narrow and almost hidden path, on the right hand, winds down into a small quarry or excavation, thickly over- shadowed with high evergreens, and overspread with ivy and other low plants, through which the natural rock of the soil peeps out on all sides : in this little obscure recess are placed a number of antique cinerary urns and sarcophagi disposed irregularly about the ground, and on the various points of rock, exhibiting the appearance of a Roman cemetery. At the further end, amidst a confused heap of stones, lies a fine capital of the Corinthian order, brought from the ruins o^ Alexandria. The whole effect is whimsical, and the deepness of the shade makes this place a most re- freshing retreat in hot weather. The walk which you left, and to which you must return, then conducts you into the English Flower Garden, an irregular piece of ground, of considerable extent, laid out in beds of shrubs and flowers, and T2 208 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF traversed by gravel-walks, so disposed as to conceal its boundaries, and occasionally to open agreeable vistas, displaying to the best advantage the many beautiful trees that adorn it: amongst which some extraordinary fine magnolias, of unusual size, cedars both of Libanus and Virginia, and several cork-trees, ought particularly to be remarked. A bench presents the follo-.ving lines from Cowper: " Prospects, however lovely, may be seen Till half their beauties fade; the wearied eye Too well acquainted with their charms, slides off Fastidious, seeking less familiar scenes. Then snug enclosures in some shelter'd spot, Where frequent hedges intercept the eye, Delight us, happy to renounce awhile. Not senseless of its charms, what still we love, That such short absence may endear it more." This garden is further decorated by a handsome pavilion, containing a silting- room, a dressing-room, and a bath, where hot and cold water are poured from the mouths of two bronze dolphins, into a capa- cious marble bason. Adjoining to this is the French Flower-garden, a little square enclosure, bounded by a high-cut hedge of evergreen oak and bay, and laid out in a parterre, with a bason and jet d'eau in the midst, surrounded hy ber- ceau.T and arches of trellis twined over by all sorts of Creeping plants. One side of the garden is occupied by an octagon room very prettily furnished, and open- ing on each side into conservatories. A picture at the back of the room, being removed, discovers a beau- tiful little statue of Meleager, behind which, a glass is so placed, as to reflect all the garden, and create, from a little distance, a pleasing illusion. This figure is answered by another of Mercury, placed opposite to it, outside the enclosure, and only seen in perspec- tive under the arches. In the border, on one side, a singularly fine magnolia should be remarked : oppo- site to it, on the other, is erected an urn, bearing on DEVONSHIRE. 209 a tablet the name, Sophia, Countess of Mount Edg- cumbe, who died in 1806, on the pedestal of which is the following inscription : To the Memory of Her, Whose taste embellished, Whose presence added chaniis To these retreats, (Herself their brightest ornament), This Urn is erected In the spot she loved. From this little retired spot, a narrow walk carries you back to the Block-house lawn, passing by a small grove of fine cypresses, (in which there is a handsome monument), and suddenly breaking out again on the beautiful prospect before described. Proceeding now from the battery round the point, you come to Thomson's Seat, a Doric alcove, so called from the lines quoted below from his Autumn, which are written in it, as strictly applicable to the view it commands, consisting of the Harbour and passage-way, Stonehouse, Government-house, the for- tifications on Mount Wise, and the Dock-yard, par- ticularly that part of it where are the slips for build- ing the largest ships of war: " On either hand, Like a long wint'ry forest, groves of masts Shot u}) their spires ; the bellying sheet between Possess'd the breezy void : the sooty hulk Stecr'd sluggish on : the splendid barge along Row'd, regular, to harmony : around, The boat, light skimming, stretch'd its oary wings, While deep the various voice of fervent toil From bank to bank encreas'd ; whence ribb'd with oak, To bear the British thunder, black and bold, Tlie roaring vessel rush'd into the main." At the end of the lawn before this seat, you enter the Italian-garden, or Orangery. This plot of ground is encircled by a fine bank of arbutus, laurustinus, T 3 210 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF and Other evergreens, and disposed in a regular man- ner with gravel walks, all meeting in the centre, at a bason of water, in the midst of wiiich is a beautiful marble fountain. Four Cariatides, representing mer- maids, standing on a square pedestal, support on their heads a large bason, througli which the water rises to some height, and falling into it again, de- scends from thence in a shower on every side. The orange trees, many of which are among the finest in England, are very numerous, and in summer are ranged along the sides of the walks, forming avenues ia every direction. The house which shelters them in winter, is a noble building of the Doric order, a hundred feet in length, and of proportionable width am^ height. On the opposite side of the garden is a terrace, ascended by steps, and diagonal slopes : the walls are inlaid with tablets and pannels' of marble, and surmounted by a balustrade, on the top of which stands the Apollo of the Belvidere, between the Venus of Medici and Bacchus. Statues of Flora, Ceres, the Discobolus, and Antinous, decorate the lower ground. In a niche under the central figure, is placed a bust of Ariosto, and beneath it are inscribed the following translation from that poet : " Near to the shore, from whence with soft ascent Rises the pleasant hill, there is a place. With many an orange, cedar, myrtle, bay, And evVy shrub of grateful scent adorn'd. The rose, the lily, crocus, serpolet, Such sweets diffuse from th' odoriferous ground, Tiiat from the land each gently breathing gale Wafts forth the balmy fragrance to the sea.'' The following stanzas to the Italian garden, were written by the Rev. Sir Robert Hughes, Bart. In yonder beauteous mimic form, Touch'd by her magic wand. Could real animation warm At Fancy's sole command : DEVONSHIRE. 211 Could matter be with sense endued, Spirit below remain, And Ariosto thus renewed, In marble breathe again — How charm'd the quicken'd man would be ! How would this citron grove Remind him of his Italy, And prompt to tales of love ! Recorded in th' historic page Egeria's sombre grot. Not more appropriate to the sage, Than to the bard this spot. If the weather be favourable, as the tourist ad- vances towards the summit of the promontory of Mount Edgcumbe, he will see on one side, alf the intricacies and creeks which form the harbour at Plv- raouth, with an extensive country spreading beyond it. The other side of the promontory overlooks the Sound, the great rendezvous of the Navy in war time. One o[' the boundaries of this extensive bay, is a neck of land running out into pointed rocks; the other is a lofty smooth promontory, called the Ram's Head. Upon the summit of this is a tower, from which no- tice is given at Plymouth, by signals, of the number and quality of ships that appear in the offing. The view from the higher grounds of Mount Edgcumbe are of the grandest description, especially the appear- ance of the Eddystone Light-house by night. On the highest eminence of Mount Edgcumbe, stands Maker Church, a plain building, containing nothing worthy of note but the monument of the Edgcumbe family; but its lofty tower has long been known as a fit station for the display of signals re- lative to ships in the Channel. If the curious stranger be desirous of taking one of the most extensive views that the eye can possihly reach, we recommend him to ascend the cower, which he may be allowed to do by a small gratuity to one of the attendants, by the assistance of whose telescope he will view such vw interesting and extensive assemblage of (objects, as 2J5 TOPOGRAPIIICA'L DESCRIPTION OF will not fail to excite his admiration, and gratify bis taste. On these heights are batteries, and a detachment of soldiers. On the south side of Mnker, is Cawsand Bay ; a convenient haven, with a depth of water suffi- cient for the largest ships. The two villages of Caw- sand and Kingsand stretch round the very steep hills at the head of the bay, but contain nQj:hlng worth mentioning. The sea-mark, in form of a tower, on Penlee Point, has a picturesque appearance : on this promontory is the village and church of Rhame. It has been appositely remarked, as less wonderful, that Mount Edgcurabe should awaken poetic ideas, than that visitors should leave this enchanting domain without participating in the feelings which inspired the following lines : " Farewell, Mount Edgcumbe, all thy calm retreats, Thy lovely prospects, and thy mossy seats ! Farewell the coolness of thy dark deep woods ! Farewell the grandeur of thy circling floods ! Where'er futurity may lead the way. Where in this vale of life I chance to stray. Imagination to thy scenes shall turn, Dwell on thy charms, and for thy beauties burn.*' Reddingh Mount Edgcumbe. Table uf Hackney Coach Fares in Flymouth and its Vicinity. Number of Pas- sengers. Fares. s. d. 1 1 e 2 Between any place in Plymouth,^ Plymouth-dock or Stonehouse, and any other place within the same town, except Coxside and the Victualling-office, at Ply- mouth Between any place in Plymouth, and Bound's Cove, the Citadel, Victualling-office, Coxside, and One or more One, two. or three Tothiii .? : : N^o"^ } DEVONSHIRE. 213 in Ply-1 in Ply- I ling m ^ by I iiicirt;ii 3 in Stonehouse, inl )ads between Ply- > 'lymouth-dock ...J And any place within tlie pa^ rishes of St. Andrew & Charle Between Old Town Stand, in mouth, and any place mouth-dock, not exceeding distance the Stand in Fore- I street J And any place in Plymouth-") dock, exceeding in distance the / Stand in Fore-street J Between Old Town Stand, in j Plymoutli, and any place Stoke, or Morice-Town, way of Penny-come-quick And any other place in the parish 7 of Stoke Damarell i And any place in Stonehouse, in the direct road mouth and Plym And any other place in Stone house, not exceeding in dis-f tance the southern end off Durnford-street j And any other place, exceeding"! in distance the southern end of C Durnford-street 3 Between any place in Plymouth,") beyond Old Town Stand, ex- I cept Coxside and the Victual- ^ Iing-officc,aud any of the places | above mentioned J Between Coxside, Tothill, the") Citadel, and the Victualling- / office, and any of the places T above mentioned j Between the Stard in Fore-streetj'^ Plymouth-dock, and anyplace | in Stonehouse, in the direct ^ roads between Plymouth and | Plymouth-dock J Number of Pas- sengers. One or more One Two or three Four An additional One, two, 7 or three ^ Four One or more One Two or three Four One, two,\ or three J Four One, two,") or three J Four An additional An additional One Two or three Four 214 TOPOGRAPillCAL DESCRIPTION OF Numbers of Pas- sensers. iis-( And any other place in Stone- house, not exceeding in dis- tance the southern end Durnford-street Between the Stand in Fore- street, Plymouth - dock, and any place exceeding in dis- tance the southern end of Durnford-street ^ And Stoke Church, Morice- ) Town, or the village of Stoke J And any other place in the pa- rish of Stoke-Damarell yond Stoke Church, or the lage of Stoke Stoke J le pa-*} 1, be-/ lie vil- f Between any other place in Ply-~| mouth-dock, exceeding in dis- j tance the Stand in Fore-street, ^ and any of the places above | mentioned J Between any place in Stone-S house and Stoke Church, Mo-f rice-Town, or the village ofl* Stoke J Between any place in Stone- house and any place in the pa- rish of Stoke-Damarell, be- yond Stoke Church, or the village of Stoke Between any place in Stone- house beyond the southern end of Durnford-street, and any of the places above mentioned ... One, two,l or three J Four One, two,? or three 5 Four One or more An additional An additional One or more An additional An additional As the drivers of carnages are subject to a double toll on Sundays, an additional sixpence to the ordi- nary fares is allowed for every time such double toll 13 actually paid. Drivers of carriages shall go from the stand, either DEVOlvSIlIRE. 215 in Plymouth or Dock, to any part of Stonehouse, (provided the distance does not exceed the southern end of Duniford-street), to take up a fare, for which he sliall be allowed sixpence, in addition to the ordi- nary fare. Every driver shall allow ten minutes, to take up any person or persons by whom he may be hired; but if detained longer, he shall be allowed sixpence for every quarter of an hour that he may wait. Every driver shall, if required, vvait, to take back any fare he may have carried to any place, for any space of time not exceeding six hours. Drivers are subject to these regulations by night as well as by day, without any additional expence. From the llhame Head, and other high hills in the neighbourhood, good views may be obtained of the Eddystone Light-house. Tliis stands on a rock, or rather a collection of rocks, at the entrance of Plymouth Sound, about nine miles from the land, covered at high water; but at low water bare; situated about twelve miles and a half from the middle of the Sound. The many fatal accidents which have happened from ships running upon these dreadful rocks, either in the night, at high water, or in bad weather, peremptorily urged the necessity of erecting a light-house on the spot; and accordingly, in 1696, one was undertaken to be built by Mr. Wynstanley, who with great art and expedition completed the work. In a dreadful tem- pest, however, in November 1703, this light-house was blown down, and the ingenious builder, with several other persons that were in it, perished. An- other was immediately erected, which, in December 1755, took fire, and was destroyed. The present building was constructed by Mr. Smeaton, in 1774. It consists of four rooms, one over another, and at the top a gallery and a lantern. The stone floors are flat above, but concave beneath, and are kept from pressing against the sides of the building by a chain let into the walls. Portland stone and granite 216 TOPOGIIAPHICAL DESCKIl'TION OF are united together by a strong cement, and let into horizontal steps by dove-tails on the south-west. The foundation is one entire mass of stones, to the height of 35 feet, engrafted into each other, and united by every means of additional strength. The whole build- ing is about 80 feet high. EDDYSTONE LIGHT-HOUSE. Though every precaution was taken to secure the second light-house against the two elements of wind and water, which had destroyed the first, it fell by a third. In 1755, it was observed Irom the shore to be on fire; but it happened fortunately that Adniiral West- rode was with a fleet at that time in the Sound, and being so near the spot, and perceiving the danger of the unfortunate inmates, contrived with much difficulty to take them off the rocks, where they had crept for DEVOMSIirUE. 217 safety from the flames. One of llie poor fellows, when using his best endeavours to save the building, luid a quantity of melted lead down his throat, and died in twelve days after, when the lead found in his stomach weighed seven ounces. The door of this ingenious piece of architecture is only the size of a ship's gun-port, and the windows are mere loop-holes, denying light, to exclude wind. When the tide swells above the foundation of the building, the light-house makes the odd appearance of a structure emerging from the waves. But some- times a wave rises above the very top of it, and cir- cling round the v.'hole, looks like a column of water, till it breaks into foam, and subsides. Four men have the charge of this important bea- con, and are relieved by turns every six weeks, two by two ; they are supplied with salted provisions as if for a voyage, as very frequently a boat cannot ap- proach for a long period, owing to the roughness of the weather. Next to the light-house, the noble Breakwater, now nearly finished, will be highly instrumental in making Plymouth Sound itself a basin, compared with its former dangerous situation. Here the wea- ther-beaten ships of any size, may run and venture to bring up, even with a last anchor. The writer of this, in a gale from south south-west right in, in the month of October 1815, had the plea- sure of witnessing the desirable effect produced by the new Breakwater, when ships, to use a sea phrase, which would formerly have " been riding bows under," were rising gently on the swelling billow, and all with safety and comfort rode out the gale. The singularly delightful views which burst on the sight in a fine morning on opening Plymouth Sound, are so varied, picturesque, and beautiful, as to strike with surprise every mind capable of reflection. They pass that lovely mount, O Edgcumbe, ihine ! ^Vhose varied charms m rich profusion shine, U 218 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCIUPTION OF Gladdening the e}'e, where Nature leagues with art, Unrivall'd scenes of beauty to impart. An elegant pier and a light-house will be erected on the sohd and imperishable base of the massive stones laid for this purpose, and the whole will probably re- main a lasting memorial, worthy of the nation and the age. The occasion of this stupendous national work originated in a frequent observation made by the late Lord Howe, " that this bay would one day be the grave of the British Navy, from its exposed situation." From this, and the consideration that Plymouth pos- sessed advantages superior to any port on the south- west coast of England for assembling or equipping a fleet, or watching the French marine at Brest, it was determined to make Plymouth Sound, at whatever expence it might involve, a safe road-stead for forty ships of war, at least. At the suggestion of Lord St. Vincent, in 1806, the most eminent engineers were employed to ascertain the possibility of carrying this plan into etlect. Nothing however was done till Mr. Yorke presided at the Board of Admiralty, when various plans were proposed for sheltering the Sound. One was, to throw a pier from Staddon Point to the Panther Rock, of 2600 yards in length ; another, to construct a pier from Andurn Point to the Panther, of 2900 yards; and a third, to carry a pier from the same point to the Shovel Rock, being only 900 yards. Objections were urged against throwing out piers from any of these points, as they might change the current, and create new depositions of mud and chan- nel, and make the harbour unfit for large ships. On these considerations, Messrs. Rennie and Whidby proposed that an insulated pier, or Break- water, should be thrown across the middle of the en- trance into the Sound, having its eastern extremity about sixty fathoms to the eastward of St. Carlo*8 Rock, and* its western end about 300 fathoms west of the Shovel, the wlrole length being 1700 vards, or DEVONSHIRE. 2l0 nearly a mile. Tliey proposed tlie middle part of tiie BrealvWiiter to be carried in a straight line for the length of 1000 yards, with a bend at each end towards the entrance of the harbour, nith a view of allowing the great flow of water inwards, to pass with less violence, as well as create a kind of circle, within which the ships might lie with greater safety. The plan recommended and adopted for the con- struction of the work, was to heap together promiscu- ously large blocks of stones, which were to be sunk in the line of the intended Breakwater, leaving them to find their own basis and take their own position., Stones weighing a ton and a half eacii, were deemed suffici- ently large to keep their places against the prodigious swell to which they were to be constantly exposed. Where the water is from five fathoms, or thirty feet deep, the base of the Breakwater is seventy yards broad, at the summit ten yards, and a height of ten feet above the low water of an ordinary spring tide : thus the dimensions of the Breakwater, in these parts, are 210 feet wide at the foundation, oO feet across the top, and 40 feet in height from the bottom. The rough estimate for completing a Breakwater and pier for the sheltering of Plymouth Sound, and Bouvisand Bay, is as follows : £ s. d. 2,000,000 tons of limestone, in^v blocks, from 1^ to 2 tons weight f „ each, for the great Breakwater, ( ^^">"^" " ^ at 7s. Qd. per ton 3 360,000 tons in the pier proposed ^ to be built from Andurn Point, > 126,000 at 75. 3 Contingencies, say at 20 per cent. ^ 17;; onn n n on the whole S ^'^'^^^ " " Total for the great Breakwater • • 1,051,200 U2 220 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF Estimate of the probable Expence of Cut-stone Pier, and two Light-homes, to be built on the top of the great B?'eakwatcr. £ s. d, 4'2,000 cubic ^ards of masonry, in ^ the out and inside walls of the > 44,700 pier, at 27s. 3 02,000 cubic yards ofrubble-fiiling, "^ between the out and inside > 18,C00 walls, at 6s. j Paving the lop of the pier with kirge % blocks of stone, 8500 square > 22,950 yards 3 Two light-houses, with reflectors ) ,^„„ ^ . J I 1 i oOOO and argand lamps S Contingencies, 20 per cent. 28,650 119,900 Breakwater 1,051,200 Total estimate of completing the ) ^ ^^, ^^^ ^ „ works r........ll'17 1,100 The different kinds of machinery employed in this stupendous work, are worth the attention of the tourist; he will find much gratification on inspecting the various applications of skill and labour in forming this immense rocky mass, to resist one of Nature's most powerful elements. The Breakwater was begun in 1812, under the di- rection of Mr. Joseph Whidby. The whole is ex- pected to be finished about the end of 1825. It is situated seaward from the Citadel of Plymouth, 180 fathoms, with a good channel to sea, at either end, for the largest ships at any time of tide; and when completed, as before oh.'ierved, will make a good harbour for forty sail of the line, besides many smaller ships. The average depth of water on the line where the Breakwater is placed, is 3Q feet at low-water DEVONSHIKE. 221 spring-tides: it has a slope to seawards of 22° fiotii (|je horizontal line, and oiiy of 33"' towards tiie land. On the east side of the bay, at Staddon Point, another pier is building, for the purpose of watering ships of war; and at a small distance inland, is a re- servoir, containing 12,000 tons of water, which is occa- sionally carried in pipes to the pier, and thence con- veyed to ships at anchor in the Sound. To visit the Breakwater, it is necessary to j)roceed to the Barbican Pier, where a boat may be hired to the Breakwater for two shillings ; and if the voyage be extended to Bovey Sand, the usual additional price will be one shilling. With a favourable wind and tide, after a voyage of about three miles, we may disem- bark at the landing-place constructed near the centre of the Breakwater, and projecting in a northerly di- rection. No stranger can visit this stupendous work, with out being impressed with feelings of admiration at the boldness of the plan, and the felicity of its execu- tion. In defiance of natural obstacles of the most formidable character, we behold this mighty bulwark rising above the waters, and successfully breasting the waves of the Atlantic. When we thus see an im- mense ridge, apparently as firm as if planted bv the hand of Nature, and its duration and stability marked by the marine plants that covers iis sides, we are furnished with an example of human daring, greater than any that could have called forth the ex- clamation of the Roman satirist. Near the reservoir, is the residence of the superin- tendant of the Breakwater establishment. It is a modern house, delightfully situated on a pleasant lawn, sheltered by the surrounding hills, and com- manding a full view of the Breakwater, the Sound, Cawsand Bay, and the opposite shore. The inns, libraries, &c. at Plymouth are numerous. In Old I'ovvn is the stand for the caniage^, commonlv called Dillics, which run between Plyuioutli luuI Dock, U 3 2SVi TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF and wliich are occasionally hired as post-chaises for short journies. Bathing-machines are kept on the beach at Sandy- cove, Mill -bay, and at Catdown, for public accommo- dation. The vigour and comfort resulting from the salubrious practice of bathing, cause them to be much frequented during the season, which commences on the first of May, and continues till the end of October. This is also applicable to the bathing-machines at Dock. The commercial speculations of Plymouth are not conmiensurate with the extent and population of the port; but, as it has been before observed, the esta- blishment of a chamber of commerce has been pro- ductive of increased ardour in diflferent branches of trade, and we trust it will extend its beneficial in- fluence. Ships have been fitted out for the South-Sea Whale Fishery, and the attention of speculators has been directed to the home fisheries, which were much neglected in time of war. Pilchards, which in the reigns of Elizabeth and James I. formed the principal trade of Plymouth, have again been exported in large quantities; and, although the scarcity offish during the last three years, has operated as a discouragement to many, yet we may hope, that succeeding abundant seasons will indemnify the speculators for past losses; and that this important branch of commerce will con- tinue to receive the attention it deserves. The principal manufactories are Messrs. Gill aTid Co.'s soap manufactory at Mill-bay ; Mr. Welsford's in Drake's-place, and Messrs. Ilammett, Prance and Co.'s Old Towii-without, for the manufacture of sailcloth; Messrs. Suttill and Co. for lines, twine, and thread, in Mill-street; Messrs. Mare's iron foundry, George's- lane; and the manufactory of coarse earthenware, at Coxside. We have noticed the rapid improvements that have taken place in the arts of architecture and painting, within a few years at Plymouth, Sculpture, as may DEVONSHIRE. 223 )e expected, does not rise above the usual level to vhich it generally attains in provincial towns. Music, jiough much cultivated as a private amusement, en- (>ys a small portion of public patronage, the receipts X concerts seldom producing sufficient to remunerate he professors. A Philharmonic Society has lately :Gen established by a number of gentlemen, whose meetings are held at stated periods in the hall of the \thena3um. Besides a number of vessels in the coasting and coal trades at Dock, there are ships belonging to the principal merchants, employed in trading to the Me- diterranean, North America, &c. Mutton Cove and North Corner are the only public quays, where these traders take in, and discharge their cargoes. Here porters, draymen, and carmen, resort for employment, which they chiefly derive from the carriage of coals landed at the quays. Watermen ply here in great numbers, particularly in time of war, when their wherries are in constant requisition to convey persons to the ships of war, Millbrook, &c. The ferry, which was originally established between Cremill or C rim- hill point and Mount Edgcurabe, continues to retain the appellation of Crimhill ferry, although the boats have been long since removed to Mutton Cove. A boat for the conveyance of vehicles and horses, and two boats for foot-passengers, are employed at this ferry ; and, although frequent complaints are made of inattention on the part of the ferrymen, passengers cannot remedy this inconvenience by hiring what is called a shore-boat, without being obliged to submit to the impost of paying the fares of the ferry, in ad- dition to the remuneration given to the waterman. There are many other objects in this neighbour- hood which may afford some pleasure in the survey. The first is Whitsand Bay, a very large, but shoal in- let, the bottom of which is a fine sand. Sharrow Grot, which is on its beach, is a cave hewn out of a rock by the proper manual exertions of a gentleman of the name of Lugger, which toil was richly repaid by its curing 2^ TOPOGEAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF him of th_e gout; deciciedly proving the superiority of labour, in this disease, over medicine. There is a table and stone seats in the grot, and several obser- \'ations in verse on its sides. Millbrook, a small town at the head of the lake of that name, in the Hamoaze, once flourished greatly by its fisheries; and we are told, sent members to Parliament. At present it is in a low, but re\iving condition. Near Millbrook, on a hill called South Down, is an extensive brewery, whence his Majesty's vessels are supplied with beer. Near Millbrook, in another creek of Hamoaze, is St. John's, a parish and village in rather a dreary situation, containing about twenty houses. The only thing worthy of notice, is its neat parsonage-house and adjoining grounds. About a mile from St. John's, lies Anthony Church Town. The church is a neat building, with a tower and good set of bells; in it are some monuments of the Carew family, who are interred here. The village consists of about 250 houses and 180O inhabitants. When arrived at this place, the pedes- trian will find himself in the road toTorpoint, situated immediately opposite to Morice Towji, which, from an inconsiderable village, has risen to some conse- quence in the neighbourhood, being inhabited by se- veral respectable families, chiefly belonging to the Navy. A regular ferry has been established from this place to Morice Town, and it contains two meet- ing houses, the largest of which belongs to the Me- thodists; but a Chapel of the Establishment, and a market, are essentially necessary to render it conve- nient, as the parish-church (Anthony) is three miles distant, and the inhabitants are obhged to purchase the chief part of their victuals at Dock. A little higher up, is Thanckes, the seat of Lady Graves, widow of Admiral Lord Graves, who was born therf . Thanckes is a large brick-house, surrounded by low trees, and stands near the margin of a small bay, which is nearly dry at ebb tide. The estate has DEVONSHIKE. 225 oen in the possession of the present family above a •Mitiiry. Between Torpoint and Thanckes are some pleasant )uses, with fine gardens, called Gravesend, and on ;e right side of the river is Keyham JMagazine, with jiivenient wharfs, storehouses, and dwellings for the rticers. After having been thus diffuse in our description of i-'lymouth, in addition to what has been said of the little port and town of Topsham in page 92, it is necessary to remark, that the latter consists princi- pally of one long irregular street, chiefly bordering on the east bank of the Exe. The greatest number of houses are ancient, and inferior to those on the strand. The church stands nearly in the centre, on a high cliff, commanding some very fine scenery. The quay is spacious and convenient, and now belongs to the chamber of Exeter, of which Topsham is the port: here vessels exceeding 200 tons burthen, are obliged to anchor; their cargoes being conveyed to Exeter by smaller craft. The chief business carried on is ship-building. The market is held on Saturday. At Saltram, near Plymouth, is the seat of the Earl of Morley. This mansion is said to be the largest in the county, covering an area of 135 feet by 170. The principal suite of apartments is on the ground floor, which are elegantly fitted up and adorned with an extensive and valuable collection of pictures. The upper apartments are highly embellished with drawings and portraits ; and the grounds possess singular at- tractions, an extensive diversity of landscape and massy wood, Plymouth Sound, the town, citadel, Mount Edgcumbe, the sea and harbour, with its endless variety of amusement. A bold irregularity of surface characterizes the grounds, and renders the variety unceasing. The interior of Saltram corresponds with its exterior in appearance and interest. Eight miles further is Ivy Bridge^ a pretty little village beautifully situated in a romantic dell, at the 226 TOPOGRAPHICAL Dr.SCRIPlION OF bottom of which runs the river Erine. This place derives its name from the brid^^e with one arch, covered with ivy. The impetuous mountain torrent that rushes through it, after forming various cascades, and dashin-; through many rocky chasms overhung with fine mossy woods and straggling roots and trunks, passes on to the EngHsh ChanneL Five miles from hence is Brent, a small town on the river Aven ; and about five miles farther is BucKFASTLEiGii, a large village, built upon the scite, and in a great measure with the materials from the ruins of an ancient abbey, founded in this parish by Ethelwardus, son of William Pomerai, during the reign of Henry I. and endowed with revenues by Richard Banzan, which must liave been considerable, being rated at the dissolutioa at 46(3/. lis. 2d. Two miles and a half from hence we arrive at Ash- BURTON', which, according to Doomsday Book, be- longed to the king, and subsequently it appears to have been possessed by the Bishops of Exeter; to one of whom. Bishop Stapledon, it is indebted for its weekly market and annual fair; the grant of which was procured by him in the early part of the reign of Edward III. Tlie town consists chielly of one long street, upon the high road from London to Plymouth. The river Dart is only half a mile distant. The ma- nufacture of serge to a very considerable extent is carried on here ; and a market lield once a week for the sale of wool and yarn. The church is a hand- some building, with a tower ninety feet high, termi- nated by a small spire. The chancel contains several stalls, the same as in collegiate churches ; and in one part is a curious memorial, recording, that in the year 1754, the representatives of the borough " chose to express their thanks to their constituents by pur- cliasing an estate for educating the boys of tl>e bo* rough," an example of patriotism which we believe has never been followed. An ancient building, which before the Reformation was a chapel or chantry, ad- joins the church, and is now appropriated to the use DEVONSHIRE. 22f i the gvanmiar-scljuol, and also as the place of elec- Mon of the representatives in parliament, and other ubiic business relating to the town. Ashburton is an ancient borough by prescription, tnd was constituted a stannary-town by charter of Edward I. It appears to have sent representatives to parliament, for the first time, in the 26th year of the reign of this monarch, and not again until the 8th of Henry IV.; it then omitted the exercise of this privilege until the year 1640, when it was resumed. Ashburton is one of the neatest towns in Devon- shire. The scenery on the banks of the Dart, a few miles from the town, is some of the most picturesque in the county, more particularly about Buckland, the seat of Mrs. Bastard. Spitchwick is the seat of Lord Ashburton, and Holne Chase the beautiful and ro- mantic hunting seat of Sir Bourchier Wray. Some eminent men have been educated in Ashburton School. Some of the finest Devonshire marbles are obtained at Bickington, near Ashburton. The right of voting is possessed by about 200 persons, the proprietors of certain freeholds within the borough : the number of votes, therefore, is merely nominal and fluctuating, according to the change of the property which confers tlie right. The chief officer of the town is the por- treeve, who is chosen annually at the court-leet and baron of liie lords of the manor. A curious incident happened here, about fifty years since, at the house of Mrs. Aldridge, called the New Inn, and is thus related in Polwhele's history of Devonshire. " In an underground cellar, a dish of Werabury oysters was laid, by way of coolness. At the time when the tide flows, it is well known oysters open their sliells to admit the waters, and take their food. At this period a large oyster had expanded its jaws, and at the same moment two mice, searching for prey, pounced at once on the victim, and seized it with their teeth. The oyster shrinking at the wound, closed its shell, collapsing with such force as to crush ihe marauders to death. The oyster, with the two 228 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCIIIPTION OF mice dangling from its shell, was for a long time ex- hibited as a curiosity, by the landlady, to her guests. A similar circumstance of an oyster clasping a mouse with its shell, has been recorded in one of the Epi- grams of the Greek Anthology. The Logan or Rocking Stone at this place is the only one extant in the county, except that in the parish of Drewsteignton. I'his is formed on a carneed of moor-stone rocks on the downs in the neighbour- hood of Ashburton, and though the exact balance is now in a great degree destroyed, was so equipoised a few years since, as to have been an amusing instru- ment for cracking nuts. It now retains, and is known by no other name than the Nut-crackers. The new road from Ashburton to Tavistock runs across Dart- moor. Two Bridges is twelve miles from the former, and eight from the latter. Dartmoor prison is situated on the spot where the road from Plymouth to JMoreton and Chagford inter- sect the former road. In fact, Dartmoor prison is a mile and a half from Two Bridges, lying out of the road about a quarter of a mile on the left. Spitchwick, Lord Ashburton's mansion and park, is about four miles from Ashburton on this road. Dartmoor was, according to Polwhele, once peopled ; and from the remains of rude habitations, a colony seems to have been placed near Westman's Wood, which an old author has called a forest of a hundred trees, a hundred feet high : this spot now contains the roots of large trees : it was certainly held sacred from the felling blow of the axe when preserved by Isabella de Fortibus, the founder of Ford Abbey, but no re- cord remains to mark when it was subsequently de- stroyed. This is not the only proof that the term Forest of Dartmoor is applicable to this wide w aste, as large trunks of trees have often been dug out in draining the bogs; and in these wilds formerly ranged the wild boar, the bear, the wolf, and the moose deer, for the chase of which a particular species of hound called the slow hound, (known only of late years ai DEVONSHIRE. 229 Manchester), was employed. In Wanley there is a curious account of winged serpents in the low, and wolves in the high lands, and a set of wild men in- habiting tlie verge of this great waste, who in swiftness could outstrip a horse — even in traditions, that abound in the marvellous, there is always some sprinkling of truth. However, the history of Dartmoor is by no means clear, till we find that it was granted by King John to the Earl of Cornwall, which grant was con- firmed, and the moor bounded by Henry the Third. The common peat of Dartmoor is used for fuel ; the black wood, or vegetable substance, a combination of roots, leaves, and earth, found under the peat, after being dried and charred, is used by the smiths to temper their tools. The ancient tracts on Dartmoor were marked with vast rocks of granite, but now a turnpike-road is cut through it, which promises the greatest benefit to this part of the county; and it is also said to be the in- tention of government, to convert the late prison on Dartmoor into a receptacle for convicts, instead of confining them on board the hulks. Dartmoor Forest is in fact a large tract of waste land, 80,000 acres in extent, presenting a constant succession of commons, torrs^ and rivers, of which the Dart is the most considerable. The commencement of the improvement of this vast waste began a few years since, when Mr. Tyrwhitt, vice-warden of the Stannaries, inclosed and cultivated a considerable part of the moor, and built an elegant house on it for his residence. Torr-Royalj or Prince Town, also built within a few years, contains an extensive prison of war, large bar- racks for the soldiery, and suitable houses for the officers, &c. The prisons are inclosed by a circular wall, and some idea of its extent may be formed from the circumstance of the watch-word from the centinels being a quarter of an hour in passing round it, when, according to the regulation, it becomes necessary to A. 2^0 TOPOGRAPHrCAL DESCRIPTION OF recommence, so that it may be said to be constantiy passing. The barracks are also inclosed, but sepa- rately from the prison. Some of the torrs are so high as to form good land-marks, though above twenty miles distant from the sea-coast. The principal part of Prince Town was built in consequence of the erection of this prison; but having lost this attraction for persons in different branches of trade since the peace of 1814, many of its dwellings are now deserted. Dartmoor prison consists of seven distinct buildings of two stories in each, for the ham- mocks of the prisoners, and a large loft over for exer- cise, in inclement weather. Adjoining is the iiospital with spacious and airy wards, dispensary, &c., and a very complete cooking-house and laundry. The lofty wall, which surrounds all the buildings, forms a circle nearly a mile in circumference, and incloses an area of thirty acres. The great gate, on the western side, is arched over with immense blocks of granite, on which is engraved the appropriate inscription, " Parce suBJECTis.*' Immediately opposite is the ample re- servoir, from which the whole establishment is sup- plied with water. The prison has been known to contain 9600 men at one time, and the barracks ad- joining are well adapted to the accommodation of a number of troops. A neat church has been recently erected at Prince Town, where service is performed every Sunday. Torr-Royal, the occasional residence of Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt, is situated south of the town; about this mansion some plantations have been reared, and a portion of cultivated land redeemed from the surrounding waste. The new iron rail-way from Prince Town to Plymouth, promises well for improving the sterile district through which the land passes, by the importation of culm, sea-sand, town dung, &c. for the purposes of manure. It is also intended to make the road subservient to the carriage of agricultural pro- duce to Plymouth market. The money for this under- taking was raised by subscription in shares of 25/. DEVONSHIRE. " 231 each, and llie subscribers constitute a company, whose othce, for the dispatch of business, is at the Exchange at Plymouth. In reference to the French prison here, during the late war, in the Prize Poem of Dartmoor, written by Mrs, Heman, it is observed : " *Twas then the captives of Britannia's war, Here for their lovely southern climes afar, In bondage pin'd ; the spell-deluded throng, Dragg'd at Ambition's chariot-wheels so long, To die; because a despot could not clasp A Sceptre fitted to his boundless grasp ; Yes, they whose march had rock'd the ancient thrones And temples of the world ; the deepening tones Of whose advancing trumpet from repose, Had startled nations, wakening in their woes; "Were prisoners here, and there were some, whose dreams Were of sweet homes by chainless mountain streams, And of the vine-clad hills, and many a strain, Of festal melody of Loire and Seine ; And of those mothers who had watch'd and wept. When on the field th* unsheltered conscript slept, Bath'd with the midnight dews. And some were there Of sterner spirits, hardened by despair. And there was mirth too, strange and savage mirth. More fearful far than all the woes of earth.** The proprietors of the Dartmoor rail-road, it is understood, will certainly reap the reward which, they are entitled to by their enterprising spirit. Such is the actual state of the work, as to admit the vending of the minor productions of this valuable waste. Forty thousand tons of shipping will be required for sup- plying the first year's contract of granite to the metro- polis alone; a fact at once calculated to excite emula- tion in ship-owners, and cherish the exj)ectation!< of the labouring community. On a Common in the vicinity of Dartmoor, among a number of earns oY series of granite rocks, heaped X 2 232 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF naturally one on another, there is one of an oblate form, serving as a cap to otliers, which is of a singular and curious appearance; its surtace is rather gibbous, swelling into little inequalities, and is in four diiTerent places scooped out into cells of various forms: these are all indisputably tlie effects of art, and seem to have been intended for reservoirs to retain a liquid, that falling on the supernces of the stone, was to have run through grooves or channels that appear to have been cut in it, in an undulating direction. The sides of them all are rounded, and diverging from the margin, are well adapted to the more ready reception of what- ever was poured on the stone, whether the blood of a victim, or water for the lustration of the surrounding people. It is evident, that when temples had been erected, and when the arts had introduced a variety of conveniences, with altars plated with iron, and brazen vases all substituted instead of the rude mass of stone and excavated basin, human victims were offered in many parts of Europe. Besides, this was a service well adapted to such wild and gloomy recesses as the vicinity of Dartmoor in remote ages. In cor- roboration of the wild state of this part of the county, Mr. Lysons estimates the mean height of Dartmoor at ITS^ feet ; the highest point is su])posed to be 2090 feet. " The general character of a great proportion of the county is a continued succession of hills of the same, or nearly the same height. This circumstance, and the lofty banks and hedges by which they are flanked in, render most of the Devonsliire high roads very tedious and unpleasant to the traveller. From the continued succession of such hills, the views must necessarily be bounded in general by the top of the adjoining hill; perhaps a mile distant more interesting views may occasionally occur ; it is then totally ob- structed by the hedges. This has long been the cha- racter of the Devon roads. Westcote observed, near 200 years since, that numerous as they were, a man might travel through the county, without seeing a DEVONSIIIKE. 233 tiock of sheep, except on Dartmoor, or such open districts." On the present prospects of cultivation and im- provement, the poem of Mrs. Heman before quoted, contains these lines : Yes ! let the waste lift up th' exulting voice. Let the far echoing solitudes rejoice ! And thou, lone moor, where no blythe reaper's song, E'er lightly spad the summer hours along ; Bid the wild rivers from each mountain source, Rushing in joy, make music in their course. Thou, whose few records of existence mark, The scene of barb'rous rites in ages dark, And of some nameless combat: Hope's bright eye, Beams o'er thee in the light of prophesy! Yet shall thou smile, by busy culture dress'd, And the rich harvest wave upon thy breast. Thee too that hour shall bless the balmy close, Of labour's day, the herald of repose, Which gathers hearts in peace. About a mile and a half before we come to Chud- leigh is Whiteway, the seat of Parker, Esq. Many other beautiful villas are scattered round Chud- leigh, which is about ten miles from Ashburton. The former is a small neat town, for which a weekly mar- ket and two annual fairs were obtained by the Bishops of Exeter, who formerly had a magnificent palace in the neighbourhood, of which there are still some re- mains. The country immediately about Chudleigh has been famous for its cyder and orchards. Chudleigh was many years since nearly destroyed by fire, but was soon rebuilt, and improved. Chudleigh Church, which stands at the western extremity of the town, is a small white-washed build- ing, with a spire rising from an embattled tower. The cottages and scenery about it present a very rural aspect, and the interior contains some monuments of the Courtenay family. X3 934 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCniPTION OF Chudleigh Rock, about halt' a mile from the town, is one of the most imposing in the island : viewed from the west, it exhibits a iDroad, bold, and almost perpendicular front, apparently one solid mass of marble; from the south-east, a hollow opens to the view, with an impetuous stream rushing over the rude stones, which foams and whirls its eddies all around. From the highest part of the rock the scenery is com- posed of fine hanging woods, and in some places the branches of the oak form a canopy for the contem- plative spectator. Mid«way down the cliff, is a large cavern, the gloomy recesses of which, according to the tradition of the country people, are inhabited by pixies or fairies. The entrance to this cavern is by an arch ten feet high and twelve wide. For the space of twenty yards the passage is the same, when it sud- denly diminishes to about half the size, and continues decreasing about fifteen yards farther, when it ex- pands into a spacious chamber, which divides itself into two parts, and runs oflf in different directions, neither of which can be traced far, owing to the drop- ping of the rock. It is reported, that a dog put into one of them, came out at Botter rock, about three miles distant. The country in the vicinity is remarkably romantic, particularly on the left of the town towards Exeter, on estates formerly belonging to the families of the Eastchurches and Rennels ; the latter were the an- cestors of the present Major Rennel, the celebrated geographer of the East Indies. Inns at Chudleigh : Clifford's Arms, and Roses Inn. A small manufactory of serges is carried on here. Ugbrook is two miles on the road to Sandy-gate, the beautiful seat of Lord Clifford. This superb man- sion is situated on the declivity of an eminence; its form is quadrangular, with two fronts and four tow- ers, with battlements rough-casted. The apartments are exceedingly spacious, elegant, and most superbly DEVONSHIRE. 235 decorated, assisted by a valuable collection of pic- tures; the library contains an ample and choice col- lection of books, both ancient and modern. The state bed-room at Ugbrook is hung with a bluish-coloured silk damask, and the curtains are of the same description. These were exquisitely wrought in needle-work, with birds, flowers, and fruit, under the direction of a Duchess of Norfolk. In a poem, descriptive of Ugbrook, the decorations of this cele- brated bed are thus elegantly described : See, on the silken ground how Flora pours Her various dyes, an opulence of flowers ; How blended with the foliage of the rose, And rich carnation, the streak'd tulip glows : The downy peach and curling vine appear With all the treasures of the purple year. Pois'd on her velvet plumes of vivid green, The paroquet here animates the scene. With half expanded wing here sits the dove In rising attitude; intent above She turns her eye, where on extended wings. Thro' fields of air her lively consort springs. With yellow crest the cockatoos unfold Their milky plumage, stain'd. with tints of gold. Here, fresh as life, in all their glory drest. The bold macaws display the scarlet breast, The painted neck of variegated hue. And glossy wings of bright cerulean blue. The surrounding grounds are upwards of seven miles in circumference. The approach to the house from a turnpike road, winds through a space of near half a mile, and includes a beautiful intermixture of wood, rock, lawn, and water. On an eminence in these grounds, are the remains of a Danish encampment, of an elliptic shape,surrounded by a trench, and overhung by majestic oaks. A fine prospect is opened on this hill. Continuing our journey, at the distance of about thirteen miles from Chudleigh, after passing through Exeter, we arrive at Crediton, an ancient and po- 236 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF puk)us town, divided into two parts, called the East and West. The weekly market, on Saturday, in Brice's time, was inferior to few in the kingdom, for meat and yarn. Crediton was undoubtedly a place of considerable importance in the Saxon times, as no fewer than twelve bishops had their seat here, between the years 92-4 and 1049, when the see was removed to Exeter. It stands on both sides of the river Greedy, and is di- vided into two parts, called the East and West. The latter was formerly more extensive than at present, upwards of 450 houses having been destroyed by fire in 1743. In 1769, a second fire consumed many buildings, together with the market-house and sham- bles, which have been since rebuilt in a very hand- some manner. The present church is an elegant structure, in the form of a cross : its tower is 100 feet high, and is situated in the centre of the build- ing, on a semicircular arch, supported by four pillars of uncommon magnitude. The interior is extremely neat; the east and west windows are large, and deco- rated with rich tracery ; and the altar-piece is a most exquisite performance, representing Moses and Aaron sustaining the Decalogue. On one side of the burial- ground formerly stood the Cathedral j but no vestiges of it remain. Connected with the chancel, at the east end, is a Sunday-school, and over the south porch a small library. Here is also a charity-school for forty boys and girls. The chief manufacture, besides spinning wool, is one for serges, which has been carried on to a consi- derable extent. Vast quantities of wool and yarn have been sold in the market-place. The market is held on Saturday, and well supplied. Houses 1149, inhabitants 5515. At Crediton is Creedy-house, the seat of Sir John Davie, Burt. This mansion has two handsome fronts, and is delightfully situated in a large park surrounded by a strong wall. Near this is Fulford-park, the seat ofJ.H. Tuckfield, Esq. DEVONSHIRE. 23? On leaving Crediton, we pursue a north-westerly course, and, at the distance of fourteen miles, arrive at Tiverton, pleasantly situated upon an eminence. The rivers Exe and Lowman run on each side of the town, and unite a little below it. Tiverton is the next in consequence to Exeter. The surrounding country is, perhaps, more beautiful than any other part of the north of Devon, and the town itself the most agree- able to reside in. The name is derived from Twy- J'ord, or Two-ford town, from the situation between two fords, the Exe and the Lowman, upon which bridges have long been erected ; the Exe rises a little abpve Tiverton, upon Exmoor, and after a course of about 30 miles, falls into the sea at Exmouth. Tiverton was incorporated by James the First, in 1615, and the government of the town vested in a mayor, twelve capital burgesses, and twelve assistant burgesses, to be chosen out of the most discreet and honest inhabitants of the town and parish. The right of returning the two members to parlia- ment was also granted to the same persons ; and in the reign of George the First another charter was ob- tained, in consequence of the former having, by some neglect, been forfeited, which, in its principles and its most important clauses, is precisely similar to that of James the First. The old church being too small for the number of inhabitants, another church was built in a very hand- some style of architecture, and dedicated to St. George, and rendered a perpetual curacy by act of parlia- ment. The old church is a large stone building, and very ancient, and dedicated to St. Peter. The altar is ornamented with a noble painting of St. Peter being delivered from prison by angels: it was the gift of the celebrated Mr. Cosway, and painted in his best style. He was a native of this town, which gave birth also to Mrs. Cowley, the dramatic poet, and to the present Alderman Wood, twice Lord Mayor of London. In Gold-street is situated Greenway's alms-houses 288 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF and chapel; one of the poor men is allowed a small additional sum to read prayers at stated times. The building is of stone, and in the front is the following; inscription, but which is almost obliterated : " All good people that may pass b}', " Pray for the soul of John and Joan Greenway." Tl>ere is also a chapel attached to the old church, founded by this family, and called after their name. Some ancient nlms-houses are erected in two other parts of this town, and liberally endowed. Here are also two presbyterian meeting-houses, and a Wesleyan ciiapel. But the glory of Tiverton is its noble free grammar- school, founded by Peter Blundel, at first a poor clothier, but afterwards a rich merchant. This school was erected in the year 1599, for 150 scholars, and handsomely endowed for the support of the masters, and exhibitions for scholars to Baliol College, Oxford, and Sidney College, Cambridge. Tiie founder used to say, that if he was no scholar himself he would be the means of making more scholars, than any scholar in the kingdom. The school-house is a fine building, replete with every conveniency ; the late Samuel Wesley left his situation in Westminster-school, to become the head master of Blundel's, which he en- joyed until his death. In the front of the gate of the great court is a long inscription in brass, relative to its foundation. Here is also an English free-school, founded by Robert Comins, or Chilcot, in 1609, and a public charity school, beside o Sunday school. The trade of Tiverton was formerly very great, in the manufacture of serges, duroys, druggets, Bcc; but for the last fifty years, this trade has been gradually declining. A few years since a cotton factory was established, and last year, some gentlemen from the North of England, through the riots and destruction of their machinery, came and settled at Tiverton, and DEVONSHIRE. 230 bet up their factories : being pleasantly situated, a number of genteel families, with small fortunes, have lately become residents. Two markets are kept weekly, on Tuev^iday and Saturday, which are remarkably well supplied with all sorts of provisions. This town has been very un- fortunate in fires, and almost consumed three times ; in 1598, six hundred houses were burnt down; in 1612, the loss was estimated at 35,000/. ; and in 173], another fire destroyed 200 of the best houses, with several manufactories, to the amount of 150,000/. ; and on Whitsun Eve 1785, between sixty and seventy houses were consumed, and since that, ten houses were burnt in Peter-street. Tn 1732, an act of parliament was passed for re- buildina; the town, in which it was enjoined that the new houses should be covered with lead, slate, or tile, instead of thatch; that no perilous trade should be carried on in the streets ; no stacks of corn, straw, hay, (Sec. erected there; that fire engines should be provided against similar accidents; that houses should be pulled down, to put a stop to any future fires; and that particular houses should be pulled down for widening the streets and passages. This town is remarkably clean, as a branch of the Lowman is so contrived above the town as to run with a rapid current through each street; the streets being upon the descent, the water is continually run- ning, and this serves the inhabitants for all the do- mestic purposes of life ; the superfluous water rejoins the Lowman below the town. This town is nearly three quarters of a mile in ex- tent from river to river, and closely built, beside the suburbs. The castle has a commanding appearance, though built in the year 1110. It has withstood many sieges, between contending parties; but suffered much between Cromwell and the Royalists. It is the pro- perty and residence of Sir Thomas Carew, Bart. Ad- joining the town, and facing the Exc, is Colley-Priest, 2^0 TOPOCrRAPKICAL DESCRIPTION Or some years since the seat of J. Hay, Esq. A navi- gable canal has lately been formed fromHolcumbe to Tiverton, a distance of about seven miles, but at pre- sent it is only used for the conveyance of lime for manure. Opposite the town is a ridge of hills, called the Shrink-hills, which runs nearly half a mile parallel with the town ; and from these hills a panoramic view may be taken of the town, with the Lowman running beneath to join the Exe. The town and parish of Tiverton are divided into three portions or rectories, each rector performing the duties of both churches alternately. Adjoining Tiver- ton, on the road to Exeter, is Bickley, rendered re- markable for being the birth-place of Bampfylde Moore Carew, surnamed King of the Beggars; he was bred up at Blundel's school, and reputed a good scholar ; his father was at the time rector of Bickley; and, although descended from one of the most ancient families in Devon, and allied to others, yet nothing could draw him from a life of mendicity. He died at a great age, and was buried at the adjoining parish ground of Cadleigh, his body not being permitted to be interred in the family vault of the Carews. A chalybeate spring, discovered a few years since at Ayshford near Tiverton, has lately been resorted to with eminently beneficial success in various cases of inveterate scrofula, &c. Three miles from Tiverton, on the road to Welling- ton, is the village of Halburton, and two miles further is Sampford Peverel, at both which places are ancient stone parish churches. Halburton had the misfortune, on the 21st of June 1817, to be nearly consumed by fire, on which ac- count subscriptions for the sufferers were solicited in London and other places. DEVONSHIllE. 241 Journey from Pi^mouth to Collumpton; by way of Modbury, Kingsbridge, Totness, Newton Bushel^and Exeter. On leaving Plymouth, we proceed easterly, and at the distance of five miles, pass through Plympton, or Plymptbn Earle, an ancient borough town, situated in a pleasant valley, about one mile south-east of the river Plym. This is a market-town, and parish ; it consists of two irregular streets, containing about 100 houses and 700 inhabitants. The church and Guildhall are an- cient buildings, in the latter of which is a well-endowed free-school, erected in 1664, by Sir John Maynard, one of the trustees of Elizius Hele, Esq. who left 3500/. per annum for such purposes. Plympton is well known as the birth-place of that eminent painter Sir Joshua Reynolds, a fine portrait of whom, painted by himself, adorns the Guildhall. Tlie town is ex- tremely clean, and four fairs are held in it annually, for cattle, cloth, &c. Plympton is one of the Stannary towns for Devon; it is governed by a mayor, recorder, and seven aldermen, a bailiff, and two Serjeants at mace ; and sends two members to parliament. Some ruins of a castle, which was once the seat of the Earls of Devon, are still to be seen on a hill near the town. These, with an artificial mount about seventy feet high and two hundred in circumference, stand on the north side of the town. The fortress included nearly two acres, and was encompassed by a high rampart and a very deep ditch. Some fragments of the castle on the top of the mount are of great thickness. Sir Joshua Reynolds, by his illustrious character and abilities, not only shed a lustre on the place of his nativity, but was the great agent in advancing the arts and artists of England to a rivalship with those of enlightened Greece and Rome. Before the time of Sir Joshua, elegant art was an ahen to this country; he naturalized it to the soil, and thus dis- proved the assertions of Du Bos, VVinckelman. and Y 242 TOFOGUAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF Montesquieu, who had contended tliat the climate of England was inimical to the genius of painting. This illustrious artist was born on the 16th Jul}?, 17^3. His father was master of the grammar-school, and was either a very singular man. or had accident- ally obtained that character. Mr. jNIalone observes, that lie fancied " an uncommon Christian name'' for his son, might be the means of bettering his fortune, and therefore gave him the scriptural appellation of Joshua. Young Joshua evinced an early propensity for drawing, and began by copying some sketches made by his elder sisters, and also the prints from Cat's Book of Emblems. When only eight years old, " he read, with great avidity and pleasure, The Jesuits* Perspective," with the rules of which he soon made himself perfectly acquainted. Afterwards he obtained Ricliardson's Treatise on Painting: the perusal of which so delighted and inflained his young mind, that he thought Raphael the most exalted of mortal men, and resolved to become a painter himself. To gratify his propensity for the fascinating art, his father placed him under Thomas Hudson, the most celebrated portrait painter of that time. This gentle- man was a native of Exeter, and was born in 1701. As a scholar, and son-in-law to Richardson the painter and author, he derived some practical know- ledge, recommendation, and connections. Though a very indifferent artist, when compared to his dis- tinguished pupil, he obtained considerable business in painting " the honest similitudes" of country gen- tlemen, who were faithfully represented, as Walpole observes, " in the fair tied wigs, blue velvet coats, and white satin waistcoats," which constituted the fashionable dress of the time. But our young artist soon excelled his master, and sought further excel- lence by a visit to Rome, and other places on the continent, where paintings were collected and pre- served. On returning from Italy, where he had spent three years with Lord Keppel, he attracted the public DEVONSHIRE. 243 notice and appluus-e, by a full lengtl) portrait of his patron, the above nobleman. From this period he continued to advance in fame and fortune; and, by associating with the most distinguished literari of the ajic, by an amiable suavity of manners, and a union of literary and professional talents, he exalted his own honour with that of the arts and his country. He died much beloved and lamented, February 23d, 1792, and was interred in the crypt of the Cathedral of St. Paul's, with every honour that could be shown to worth and genius by an enlightened nation. His pall was supported by three Dukes, two Marquisses, and five other noblemen, and a numerous retinue of the most distinguished characters attended the funeral ceremony. Of his private and professional character, we shall give some account in the language of a living artist, as inserted in the supplement to Pilkington's Dictionary of Painters. " In many respects, both as a man and a painter, Sir Joshua Reynolds cannot be too much praised, studied, and imitated, by every one who wishes to attain the like eminence. All nature, and all art, was his academy; and his mind was constantly awake, ever on the wing, comprehensive, vigorous, discri- minating, and retentive. With taste to perceive nil the varieties of the picturesque, judgment to select, and skill to combine what would serve his purpose, few have ever been empowered by nature to do more from the funds of his own genius ; and none ever endeavoured more to take advantage of the labours of others, in making a splendid and useful collection, for winch no expence was spared i his house was filled, to the remotest corners, with casts from the antique, pictures, statues, drawings, and prints, by the various masters of all the different schools and nations. " Beautiful and seducing as his style undoubtedly was, it cannot be recommended in so unreserved a manner, as his industry both in study and practice. Colouring was evidently his first excellence, to which " Y2 2441 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCIUPTION OF all Others were, more or less, sacrificed ; and though in splendour and brilliancy he was exceeded by Rubens and Paul Veronese, in force and depth by Titian and Rembrandt, and in fresliness and truth by Velasquez and Vandyck, yet, perhaps, he possessed a more exquisite combination ot* all these qualities, and that peculiarly his own, than is to be found in the works of either of those celebrated masters. " His discourses are written in an easy, agreeable manner, and contain many just observations, much excellent criticism, and valuable advice ; but being undertaken before he had profoundly considered the f5ubject, they are frequently vague and unintelligible, and sometimes contradictory." The lines written on this great artist, by his friend Goldsmith, in his poem of Retaliation, are too cha- racteristic to be omitted. " Here Reynolds is laid ; and, to tell you my mind, He has not left a wiser or better behind. His pencil was striking, resistless, and grand ; His manners were gentle, complying, and bland : Still born to improve us in every part; His pencil, our faces ; his manners, our heart : To coxcombs averse, yet most civilly steering, When they judg'd without skill, he was still hard of hearing ; When they talk'd of their Raphaels, Correggios, and stuff," He shifted his trumpet*, and only took snuff.'* Plympton St. Mary — adjoins the former parish, and contains 245 houses, and about 1600 inhabitants. Here was formerly a college, founded by one of the Saxon kings, but the society was dissolved in 1121, by the Bishop of Exeter, who established in its stead a priory of Augustines, whose revenues exceeded those of any other similar foundation in the diocese. After a further ride of six miles, embracing many * Sir Joshua was so deaf, as to be obliged to use an ear-trumpet in company. DEVONSIIIIIE. 245 pleaslno; views of villages, private seats, &c. we arrive at Ivy Bridge. Newton Ferrers, on the banks of the Yealrn, is in a pleasing and salubrious situation ; which renders it a favourite place of retirement for naval officers. The parish churcli is a plain building, consisting of a nave and two aisles ; in the chancel, is the monument of Grace, wife of A. Clifford, Rector of Newton, and daujihter of Potter, Bishop of Carlisle. The hamlet of Noss, on the opposite side of the creek, forms a pleasing object; as are the grounds of Membland, at the head of the valley : tliis mansion and lands are the property of Sir John Perring, Bart. Proceeding north, by the public road, we shall leave Gnaton, the residence of Henry Roe, Esq. on the right, and reach Puslinch, the seat of the Rev. John Yonge, the Rector of Newton, From the fir-crowned hill, which rises behind the house, a prospect of the most fascinating character will rivet our attention. Imme- diately below, is the vale through which the Yealm rolls its placid stream, profusely studded with tower- ing elms, relieved by the neat dwellings of Yealmp- ton appearing between. Charming views of the estu- ary present themselves on the right, with the grounds of Kitley and Coffleet; and the whole southern part of the parish of Brixton, with its church and village, appearing like a richly wooded lawn. Having crossed Puslinch Bridge, below the house, we shall turn to the left, and enter the delightful domain of Edmund PoUexfen Bastard, Esq. one of the representatives in parliament for the important county of Devon. The estuary here forms a beautiful peninsula, and a shaded walk, decorated with rustic seats and pavi- lions, is carried along its margin, and leads to the house. This mansion has undergone a complete repair, in a style of taste and magnificence worthy of the proprietor. Kitley can boast a collection of pictures, which contains some of the most valuable works of Sir Joshua Reynolds, as well as several by the old masters of foreign schools. The ancestors of ^ Y3 246 TOPOGRAPillCAL DESCRIPTION OF Mr. Bastard, followed the fortunes of the Norman Conqueror, who rewarded J heir services with large grants at EfFord, Meavy, and other places. Kitley became their property by marriage with the heiress of Edmund Pollexfen, Esq. and has continued to be their principal residence. The grounds are extensive, and tastefully laid out. A carriage-drive leads from the house through an arch, over wiiich the Modbury turnpike-road passes. Here a grass path to the right, leads to plantations on some high ground, from whence we gain beautiful views of the lawn, the house, and the estuary, with the uplands of VVembury and Revel- stoke, beyond. The drive to the left, is continued by the side of a rapid brook, through thick planta- tions of fir, ash, and oak, to a rustic lodge, where it crosses a parish-road to Yealmpton. Here it leaves the valley, and ascends through a more forest- like tract, again varied by plantations, till it termi- nates at another neat rural lodge, nearly two miles from the house. Leaving these delightful grounds, and following the pubHc road, we shall reach Lyn- HAM, the property of John IBulteel, Esq. of Fleet, and now the residence of James Courtney, Esq. The ancestors of the present possessor, of the name of Crocker, resided at Lynham in the reign of Henry IV. The house is surrounded by ancient woods, which with those of tiareston, on the other side of a pleasingly secluded valley, overshadow a tributary brook which flows into Yealm estuary at Kitley. In this vale isHARESXON, the residence of John Wood Winter, Esq. whose ancestors (the Woods) have enjoyed lands here during several successive generations. A walk through fertile land, and part of Kitley grounds, will conduct us to Brixton Church and village. This church, which has been fitted up in a style of becoming neatness, is without any of those tawdry decorations sometimes so injudiciously placed on the wails of our places of public worship. The only monuments, are three marble tablets, comme- morative of Thomas Lane, Esq of Coffleet, of Mrs. DEVONSHIRE. 247 Lane, of Lieut. Thomas Lane, and of John Templar Lane, Esq. and a plain slab to the memory of the Woods of Hareston, dated 1694. A tablet in the church-yard wall records the planting of an adjacent grove of lofty elms, in 1677, by Edmund Fortes- cue, Esq. of Spriddlestone, who ordained that they should be sold, when mature, and the products applied to the relief of the parochial poor. The motto on this stone, ** Nemo sibi soli natus;^' "No man is born alone for himself," is most appropriate to every planter; and should be remembered by all, as an antidote to selfishness, and an incentive to be- nevolence. The modern residences of Miss Lane, and of Thomas Splatt, Esq. form conspicuous objects among the humbler dwellings of this pretty rural hamlet. From this village we shall direct our steps to Coffleet, the mansion of the Rev. R. Lane, who has here lately made considerable improvements. The lawn, which is tastefully interspersed with plant- ations, declines down to the shores of Yealm estuary, whose numerous miniature promontories, grassy knolls, and woody inlets, form charming features in the surrounding landscape. We shall now return to the stream of the Yealm, and visit Yealmpton, which con- tains the parish-church, and a number of genteel dwell- ings. This town or village, claims high antiquity, as tradition reports that the Saxon king Ethelwold erected a palace, and that his lieutenant or viceroy Lipsius was interred here. In the church are numerous sepulchral monuments of the families of Crocker, Pol- lexfen, Copleston, and Bastard. A brass plate in the south aisle, bears this inscription, iu the black letter:' %^v{^z ?l)ine5 Septemljer jsunnr, fgfe tjuuDceo gfarjst 9im four tinted ttomtg tuere $fnte ©dcfst to mt\) toSieT Mi^tn 3l£(abel tl^z toief of ©oplf/ston ceare Diti Dge, ^\)z tibii^o Da^ Ijwtieti tf)ettce, noto ^ere in tombe Dotfj 248 TOPOGUAPIirCAL DESCRIPTION OF %o pmn f otte^cue, t\}ixn Daughter bg Degree, anB Qgne0 tukt ^ic ^o^ec'6 mmz of %aintma\j>tt:i Another brass tablet fixed on one of the pillars, lias a Latin inscription, also in black letter, to a youth of the Copleston lamily. In the transept is an elegant marble monument of Edmund PoUexfen, Esq. barrister at law ; and in the south aisle, liandsome monuments commemorative of the family of Bastard. A tablet in the floor of the north aisle, has a Latin inscription much defaced, in memory of one of the Crockers, by which we learn that he was standard- bearer to Edward IV. The present vicar is tlie Kev. J. Longmore, who has rebuilt the vicarage in an elegant style. In the church-yard an oblong block of granite, with the word TOUEVS graven on it, appears to have been intended for a sepulchral monu- ment, but its real designation has baffled the re- searches of antiquarians. The walks in the immedi- ate vicinity of Yealmpton, along the banks of the river, are extremely pleasing. One of these, which leads through groves and meadows towards Puslijich- bridge, will conduct us to a cavern in the limestone rock, of extraordinary extent. The entrance of this cave, which was discovered several years since, is closed by a door, placed there by the direction of Mr. Bastard, in whose grounds the quarry is situated. In tracing tlie river iVom Yealmpton, we shall pass Torr, the property of William Holberton, Esq. and proceed to Yealin Bridge, where there is a paper- mill, belonging to INIr. Thomas Holberton, whose neat residence is adjoining. About three miles north, is Lee-mill Bridge, where the Yealm is crossed by the Exeter road, and by following its course, we shall reach Slade, in a low situation, the seat of John Spurrel Pode, Esq. On a more elevated site, is Delamore. the residence of Treby Ilele Hays, Esq. This is a modern house, with an elegant veranda, commanding varied prospects over heatiiy commons, DEVONSHIRE. 249 relieved by the more pleasing scenery of a cultivated valley below. The church-tonn of Corkwood ad- joins the grounds; the church is a neat edifice, with a low tower. In the church-yard are some antique granite tombs, with inscriptions in rude characters. The interior contains monuments of the families of Fortescue, Bellmaine, Savery, Rogers, &c. A tablet records the virtues of the Rev. Thomas Vivian, a learned antl pious divine, 46 years vicar of the parish. Here is the monument of Sir John Rogers, member of parliament fur Plymouth, lineally descended from Dr. Rogers, who suffered martyrdom " for conscience sake," in the reign of Mary. An inscription perpe- tuates the valour of Benjamin Burrell, a captain in the army of Charles the First. From Corn wood we pursue the road eastward, and pass in front of the residence of the Vicar, the Rev. Duke Yonge, en- joying a pleasing prospect in a valley, profusely adorned with trees of varied foliage. The principal stream of the Yealm is here crossed by a stone bridge, near which is Blatcuford, the seat of Sir John Lemon Rogers, Bart, surrounded by ancient trees of extraordinary magnitude. Above the bridge, the Yealm flows from its source through the wilds of Dartmoor, and forms the boundary between the hundreds of Plympton and Ermington. By crossing the rivers Yeahn and Erme, we also arrive at Modbury, an ancient borough town, consist- ing principally of four streets, running east, west, north, and south, and crossing each other at right angles in the market-place. Many of the inhabitants are em- ployed in the woollen trade; and here is also a weekly market on Thursday ; besides which, a hat and plush manufactory have been established in the town : the machines used in the latter are of very ingenious con- struction. The church, a spacious edifice, deviates conside- rably from the usual east and west construction, and has a spire about 134 feet high. An ancient building, now converted into a barn, was in the reign of King 250 TOPDGRAPHrCAL DESCRIPTION OF Stephen pnvt of tlie alien ])riory of Benedictines here. Here are also the ruins of Modbury-house, comnionly called " The Court-house,** once inhabited by the family of the Champernounes, \vho lived here in great splendour, from the time of Edward II. till the be- ginning of the i7th century. Tradition speaks very highly of this seat, and the manner in which the Champernounes lived ; and par- ticularly of their keeping a very fine band of singers and musicians; which band, if report may be credited, was the occasion of the family's ruin; for that Mr. Cliampernoune, taking it on the Thames in the time of Queen Elizabeth, her Majesty was so delighted with the music, that she requested the loan of it for n month ; to which Mr. Champernoune, aware of t!)e improbability of its ever returning, would not consent; saying, * he hoped her Majesty would allow him to keep his fancy.* The queen was so highly exasperated at this refusal, that she found some pretence to sue him at law, and in the course of the proceedings to sell no less than nineteen manors." This anecdote, at least the circumstance of the sale of the nineteen manors about the above period, is in a great degree confirmed by the title deeds of some lands in and round Modbury; and from these it likewise appears, that the possessions of the family, at the close of the seventeenth century, were comparatively inconsider- able; and that soon afterwards, nearly all of them were alienated. The Champernounes of Dartington, are a younger branch of those seated in this town. i\t Modbury a court-leet is held twice every year; and at the Michaelmas court a portreeve (usually styled Mayor), constables, dire, are elected. Near Modbury are several seats and manors, viz. Traine, an ancient seat of the Swete family since the year 1438, but now that of — Andrews, Esq. : Fleet- house, the seat of F. Bulteel, Esq. : Goodamure, Paul Treby, Esq. z Skilston, belonging to J. Savery, Esq. : Marrid^e, belonging to the Rev. G. Taylor : Fotvels- comhe, about four miles from Modbury, — King, Esq. DEVOKSHIRE. 251 Traine, near Modbury, is an ancient seat of the Swete family, who acquired it by descent from the Scoos, who became extinct about the time of Henry VIII. Before that period the Swetes resided at Upton in South Milton, where they can be traced back as far as the year 1438, on an estate that still belongs to the family. Adrian Swete was sheriff of Devon in 1724. The present resident is — Andrews, Esq. Fleet-house, about two miles from Modbury, is the property of James Bulteel, Esq. This mansion is finely situated on an eminence on the western side of the river Erme. Part of it is very ancient, but many alterations have been made, besides the erection of an extensive and elegant front towards the north. This commands a delightful prospect over the valley, through which tiie river winds with Ermington Church, and the celebrated hills on tlie moor, called the East and West Beacons. About six miles to the south-east of Modbury is KiNGSBRiDGE, a pleasant little town, situated on a branch of the Saltcombe river, and, according to Ilisdon, deriving its name from the bridge which separates it from Dodbrooke. A Latin free-school was founded here by a Mr. Crispin of Exeter. David Tolley, or Tolbey, called Tavelegus by Leland, was a native of tliis town. He commenced student at St. Mary's Hall, Oxford, and became a considerable proficient in the Latin and Greek languages. The Progymnasmata GrammaticcB Grcna, was written by him, for the use of Prince Edward. He was also the author of Themuta Homert, and some other pieces. Dodbrooke has been celebrated as the first place where tohife ale was brewed ; but perhaps more so from the circumstance of tithes being demandable for that liquor : a small sum is now paid annually by each innkeeper here, in lieu of this tithe. A market is held here every third Wednesday in the montlj, and four quarterly markets in a year, for the sale of cattle. About ten miles to the north-east of Kingsbridge, is Dartmouth, a very considerable i>ea-port town, 252 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF mobt delightfully situaled near the confluence of the river Dart with the British Channel. This town ori- u,inally consisted of three villages named Clifton, Dart- mouth, and Hardness ; and though now united by buildings, are distinct with respect to local regulations in several instances. Built for nearly a mile in ex- tent along the side of a craggy hill, the streets are extremelyirregular, incommodiously narrow, and stand in tiers one above theother, frequently communicating with those above by fliglits of steps. The quay is large •and convenient, and near it is a spacious street, where the merchants generally reside. Here are three churches, beside meeting-hoLses for Dissenters, charity- schools, &c. One of the former, St. Clements, is situated on a hill a quarter of a mile out of the town, and having a tower nearly seventy feet high, forms a good sea-mark. Dartmouth carries on a considerablii trade with the Newfoundland fishery ; and here is a fish-market daily, except Sunday, and one on Friday for other provisions. Dartmouth is governed by a Mayor, twelve masters or magistrates, twelve common councilmen, a recorder, a high-steward, &c. Here is also a court of session and a water-bailiwick court. The harbour is very safe, and will contain 500 sail. The castle defends the entrance, and with its round * towers presents a very prominent object. There are also two platforms of cannon. Dartmouth Bay is one of the most beautiful on the coast. Both the entrance of the Dart into it, and its exit to the sea, from many stations, appear closed up by the folding of the banks, and to resemble a lake, only furnished with shipping instead of boats. The rocks on each side of the bay are of a glossy purple coloured slate, and their sum- mits are fringed with various plants and shrubs. To the north of Dartmouth lies the port of Torbay, the principal rendezvous of his Majesty's shipping. The river Dart, much admired for its beautiful scenery, is navigable hence to Totness, a distance often miles by water; and between these places passage-boats pass daily. In coming down the river from Totness, DrA'ONSIlIRE. 253 on the light, at the distance of about three miles from that town, is Sliarphara, J. Bastard, Esq. One mile and a half farther on the left, is Stoke Gabriel Village, near which is Maidonette-house, J. H. Hunt, Esq. At six miles on the left, is Sandridge-house, R. W. Newman, Esq., and V/ooton-court, Henry Studdy, Esq. At seven miles on the right, h the village of Dettisham, and the Parsonage, the Rev. Robert Hutchings. On the left Greenway-house, J. M. El- ton, Esq. Close to Dartmouth is Mount Boon, the seat of J. H. Searle, Esq. ; the woods extend along a brancli of the river for the space of tuo miles; and there is a hermitage and a small castle in these grounds. A new market-place and a town-hall have lately been built at Dartmouth. About four miles to the south-west of Dartmouth is Slapton Lea, a remarkable lake, nearly two miles and a quarter in length, running parallel with the beach of Start Bay, and about a quarter of a mile distant from the sea, formed by three small streams of fresh water, withoi.it any visible outlet, but supposed to find a way into the sea througfi the land. It was formerly well stored with pike, perch, roach, and eels ; but most of the fish were destroyed, and great part of the Lea drained, by means of a singular breach made in the sand, towards the sea, during a storm. In the winter the lake abounds with wild ducks, widgeons, teal, coots, and other birds of different species. About two miles and a half from Dartmouth, on the opposite side of the harbour, is Brixham Church Town, and Brixham Quay, which have derived con- siderable consequence of late years, and become much improved, through their proximity to Torbay. Near Brixham Church Town, is an ebbing and flowing spring called Laywell, of which the following particular account has been given by a former tourist, who remarks, as the result of his own observati