OUR JOURNALL INTO SCOTLAND 
 
Lately published. 
 
 1295-1689.— THE EARLY TRAVELLERS 
 IN SCOTLAND. Edited by 
 P. HUME BROWN, in 1 Vol., 
 Demy 8vo, 14s. 
 
 1200-1700.— SCOTLAND BEFORE 1700, 
 from Contemporary Documents. 
 Edited by P. HUME BROWN, 
 in 1 Vol. , Demy Svo, 14s. 
 
 1677 and 1681.— TOURS IN SCOTLAND, 
 by THOMAS KIRK and 
 RALPH THORESBY. Edited 
 by P. HUME BROWN, Demy 
 
 Svo, 5s. 
 
 1803. ~ DOROTHY WORDSWORTH'S 
 TOUR IN SCOTLAND. Edited 
 by the late Principal SHAIRP. 
 Third Edition, Crown 8vo, 5s. 
 
 1837-1854.— LORD COCKBURN'S CIR- 
 CUIT JOURNEYS. Second 
 Edition, Crown Svo, 6s. 
 
 EDINBURGH : DAVID DOUGLAS. 
 
OUR JOURNALL INTO SCOTLAND 
 
 ANNO DOMINI 1629, 5th OF NOVEMBER 
 
 FROM LOWTHER 
 
 C. LOWTHER 
 ME E. FALLOW 
 PETEE MAUSON 
 
 EDINBUEGH: DAVID DOUGLAS 
 

 g^G 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 l\/rR LOWTHER'S Journal remained unprinted 
 until it appeared in Appendix VII. to the 
 Thirteenth Eeport of the Historical Manuscripts 
 Commission, under the editorship of Mr J. J. Cart- 
 wright. By the kind permission of the Earl of 
 Lonsdale it now appears in a separate form, with 
 the addition of a few illustrative notes. 
 
 The original MS. is a little pamphlet of some sixty 
 pages, 5f X 3|- inches, written on both sides of 
 the paper. It is preserved at Lowther Castle. A 
 facsimile of the first page of the Manuscript is 
 appended. 
 
 In the present reprint, the mode of changing the 
 old-fashioned spelling of the seventeenth century 
 MS. to the more modern form adopted by Mr Cart- 
 wright in his Report, has been retained. In a few 
 instances, where comparison with the original has 
 shown words to have been inaccurately translated, 
 they have been altered. A paragraph omitted by Mr 
 Cartwright has been printed on page 38 as written 
 by Mr Lowther. The plan given at page 27 has been 
 enlarged from a photograph of Mr Lowther's sketch. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 as the diagram in the printed '' Eeport "' is not suffi- 
 ciently distinct to enable the reader to follow Mr 
 Lowther s description. This plan is of some import- 
 ance to the historical student, as probably it is the 
 only existing record of the arrangement and relative 
 position of the Scottish Law Courts before 1640. 
 
 Prefixed to the book, in the same handwriting as 
 the rest of the Manuscript, is the following title : — 
 
 '' C. Lowther, 
 
 Mr R. Fallow, 
 "^Peter Mauson. 
 
 Our Journall into 
 
 Scotland ano. dni 1629 
 
 5th of November from Lowther.'' 
 
 Mr Cart Wright suggests that *' C. Lowther'' was 
 '^ probably Christopher, afterwards Eector of Lowther," 
 but from the reference to ^'my uncle Fallowfield," at 
 page 12, it is possible that he was "the Eector's" 
 nephew — Sir Christopher Lowther, the founder of the 
 Whitehaven branch of the family, who died in 1644. 
 This Sir Christopher was the second son of Sir John 
 Lowther. The Eector was a younger brother of Sir 
 John Lowther ; and their sister Eleanor, having 
 married Eichard Fallowfield of Strickland Hall, would 
 thus give Sir John's son an " uncle Fallowfield." The 
 genealogical tree at Lowther Castle unfortunately 
 does not give the exact date of Sir Christopher's birth, 
 but he could not have been much more than twenty 
 years of age at the time this tour was made. 
 
 In preparing the notes which illustrate the text, I 
 
 * This name appears iacorrectty as Peter Manson in the His. MS. 
 Com. Report. 
 
PREFACE. 7 
 
 have to acknowledge my indebtedness to Mr R. B. 
 Armstrong and to Mr T. Craig-Brown, who have fur- 
 nished me with information on many points connected 
 with the Borders and Selkirkshire ; and my thanks 
 are also due to Mr P. Hume Brown, the editor of 
 Early Travellers in Scotland^ and Scotland before 
 1700, for his kindness in reading the proof sheets, and 
 to Mr Richard H. Bailey for his assistance in decid- 
 ing many of the doubtful points connected with the 
 reading of the original manuscript. 
 
 W. D. 
 
 10 Castle Street, 
 Edinburgh, 26th September 1894. 
 

 
 FAC-SIMILE OP FIRST PAGE OF MSS. 
 
OUR JOURMLL INTO SCOTLAND 
 
 A.D. 1629, 
 5th of November From Lowther. 
 
 From Carlisle to the river Leavens^ 4 miles, in that 
 space is wet moorish mossy ground all but a little by 
 the river side, which is good. From Leavens to the 
 river Esk 2 miles, all this space is plain very good 
 ground, most corn ground, all betwixt these two rivers 
 are of Barronet Grame^ land and the debateable land 
 which is divided appertaining to England ; the whole 
 length of Sir Eich. Grame's purchase is some 16 miles, 
 down to Sarkfoot it is some 6 or 7 miles broad for 14 
 miles, some 2 or 3 miles broad towards Sarkfoot : it is 
 most of it good. There is betwixt Esk and Leavens, 
 the church of Arthuret^ built by a stock gathered 
 through the whole kingdom of England, being about 
 1500 pounds, Mr. Curwen^ parson of the same pro- 
 curer of it. By this church is the Howe end^ where 
 
 ^ An old name for the River Line. In Blaeu, Leuin. 
 
 2 Kichard Graham, gentleman of the horse to James I., created a 
 Baronet 20th March 1629. He purchased Netherby and the barony 
 of Liddell from Francis, Earl of Cumberland. 
 
 ^ In Nicolson's Westmoreland and Cumberland (vol. 2, p. 472), we are 
 told that this church was built by the help of a " charity brief " in 1609, 
 and that the persons employed in building it, went off with a consider- 
 able part of the money collected, leaving the tower unfinished until Dr. 
 Todd, the rector from 1688-1728, raised funds for its completion. 
 
 ^ Cuthbert Curwen, D.D., resigned the rectorship in 1639. 
 
 ^ The Howe End appears on a late 16th century MS. map of the 
 district. It is placed on the same side of the Esk as Longtown, but 
 somewhat nearer the sea. 
 
10 OUR JOURNALL INTO SCOTLAND. [l629. 
 
 the thieves in old time met and harboured. From over 
 passing of Esk to Dunedale Dike or Sike^ along Esk 
 is almost 2 miles, which Dike is the division of the 
 debateable land first agreed on in Hen. VFs time, 
 but now gotten exemplified in Scotland by Barronet 
 Grame, sed plus vide de eo. From Carlisle they use 
 stacking of corn, on forward into Scotland. The 
 houses of the Grames that were are but one little 
 stone tower^ garretted and slated or thatched, some of 
 the form of a little tower not garretted ; such be all the 
 leards' houses in Scotland. The Good man of Nether- 
 by in the Wood is the chief ^ of the Greames. The 
 debateable land is 3 miles long and 3 broad, Soleme^ 
 moss is on debateable land beyond Esk in Arthuret 
 parish. Within a mile of the Erix Stond^ beside 
 Mofiatin Annandale rise the three great rivers, Annan 
 running W. through Annandale ; Clyde, north ; Tweed, 
 east. 
 
 From Dunedale Sike to against Canonby some 4 
 miles, and from this Dunedale Sike to Langham almost 
 on both sides of Esk which is 8 miles is L. Bucplewes 
 land all ; and on the east side of Esk to Selkerigg^ 
 which is 4 miles along the river Esk, from Canonby to 
 Langholm be good woods on the E. side, Helliweare- 
 boog*^ and Langham wood on the W. side, and HoUow- 
 
 1 In Blaeu, March-Dyik. 
 
 2 There were several of these Towers in this district belonging to the 
 Grame clan, of wliich a perfect example still exists in Kirk Andrew's 
 Tower. 
 
 2 The Grames, as is well known, were banished to Ireland before this 
 date, but members of the clan constantly appeared at their old haunts. 
 
 ^ The Solway moss in 1771 became so swollen that it rose above 
 the level of the ground and rolled forward for about a mile, covering 
 some 600 acres at Netherby and destroying about thirty small villages. 
 
 ^ Errickstane hill lies 7 miles N.W. of Moffat. In Blaeu, Aricstan. 
 
 ^ Not identified. 
 
 ■^ Probably Hollow- well bog, a large and old wood close to Byreburn. 
 
LANGHOLM. 11 
 
 wood^ through, which is our way to Langham, and 3 
 miles from Langham, over Langham wood is my L. 
 Bucp : colepits.^ Along the river of Eske is very 
 good ground, on the height is waste but good ground, 
 and the most part beyond Esk towards Berwick is 
 waste. 
 
 Langham is my Lord Maxfeild's^ but my Lord Buck- 
 pleugh hath it and all his land there mortgaged and is 
 thought will have it.^ My Lord Maxfield hath gotten 
 it to be a market within this 5 years, and hath given 
 them of Langham and Erkenholme^ land to them with 
 condition to build good guest houses within a year. 
 We lodged at John a Foorde's at my Lord Maxfeild's 
 gate where the fire is in midst of the house ; we had 
 there good victuals, as mutton, midden fowle, oat 
 bread cakes on the kirdle baked the 5 th part of an 
 inch thick ; wheat bread, ale, aquavita3. Eobert 
 Pringle.^ Courts, Barons and Burghs may hang and 
 order any other causes, hang if ofi'enders be taken 
 
 ^ The wood round Hollow's Tower — Armstrong's Liddesdale, i. p. 
 246. 
 
 2 The coal-mines referred to here are, if not identical with, at least 
 near the site of, those still open at Canonbie. 
 
 2 Lord Maxwell, 1st Earl of Nithsdale. 
 
 ^ " The transaction connected with the acquisition by Earl Walter, 
 from Robert, Earl of Nithsdale, of the barony of Langholm began with 
 a wadset in the year 1616, by Nithsdale for ^40,000 to the Earl Walter 
 and the Earl of Abercom and Sir John Maxwell of Pollok. The share 
 of that sum advanced by the Earl of Buccleuch was ^15,000. After 
 the death of the latter (1633), his son. Earl Francis, purchased the 
 barony of Langholm for 105,050 merks. His daughter Anna, Duchess 
 of Buccleuch, successfully defended claims made by the Earl of Niths- 
 dale to the barony of Langholm." — Scotts of Buccleuch, i. p. 252. 
 
 ^ In Blaeu, Erkmhoome. 
 
 ^ Robert Pringle is mentioned again at p. 46 as entertaining the 
 travellers on their return journey at Baytingbush. He is, therefore, 
 the person referred to in Wood's History of the Family of Pringle (p. 
 106) as "Robert, designed in Bartingbush, a Writer to the Signet, who 
 purchased (in 1628) the lands and barony of Stitchel." 
 
12 OUR JOURNALL INTO SCOTLAND. 
 
 with the manner of the deed, but it must be within 
 24 hours, but if after then there must be a commission 
 gotten that they may have a jury which consisteth of 
 15, the first of which is called the chancellor and hath 
 two voices, they go by votes, and the jury is to be 
 elected out of the whole sherifidom.^ 
 
 At Langham, Arche my Lord Maxfeild's steward, 
 bestowed ale and aquavitse ; we laid in a poor thatched 
 house the wall of it being one course of stones, another 
 of sods of earth, it had a door of wicker rods, and the 
 spider webs hung over our heads as thick as might be 
 in our bed. Mr. Curwen, parson of Arthuret sent his 
 man over to Langham to get Arche to get us a lodging 
 in Lord Maxfeild's house^ because of the outlaws in 
 the town at that time, but the keys were at Arche's 
 house 4 miles ofi" so that we could not otherwise. We 
 had my uncle Fallowfield^ [who J could not sleep the 
 night for fear of them, neither would he suff*er us the 
 rest of his company to sleep ; that night also did Mr. 
 Robert Pringle hearing my uncle Fall, was going to 
 Edinburgh come after him, bestowed beer and acqua- 
 vitse of us and writ commendatory letters for us to Sir 
 
 1 John Maxwell of Broomholm exercised this power and sentenced 
 two persons to be drowned in the River Eues on the 22nd Nov. 1623, 
 and for this act he had to stand his trial in 1641 on a charge of 
 murder. He pleaded that what was done was in exercise of his office 
 as bailie-depute of the Earl of Nithsdale. " He produced minutes of the 
 trial of the said Rosie Baittie or Irving and Wilham Irving her son, 
 before a jury, on 22nd Nov. 1623, for various acts of theft, reset of 
 theft, infang, outfang and pykers, and who being found guilty were by 
 the said John Maxwell, as judge, condemned to be drowned to death in 
 Water of Ewes. The King's Advocate argued that the said bailie had 
 exceeded his authority, and the matter was argued pro and con., and 
 the case ultimately adjourned to 23rd June 1641." — Maxwell and 
 Herries' Muniments , p. 117. 
 
 2 Langholm Castle. 
 
 3 Probably R. Fallowfield of Strickland Hall, who married Eleanor, 
 daughter of Sir Christopher Lowther, who died 1617. 
 
LANGHOLM. 13 
 
 James Pringle sheriff of Ethrick/ and to Edinburgh, 
 and of all there we were kindly used, and Mr. Pringle 
 the next day set us a great part of the way to Selkrig.^ 
 At the Langham the river Eues where we come into 
 Eusedale runneth into Esk. 
 
 The Saturday being the 7 th of November anno dni. 
 1629 went we to Eskerigg,^ the way is most of it a 
 valley, rivers all the way till we be almost at Selkerig, 
 along the which rivers is excellent good ground, the 
 mountains on both sides the river be very green good 
 sheep pasture, and many places of them very good long 
 grass. All the churches we see were poor thatched 
 and in some of them the doors sodded up with no 
 windows in almost till we came at Selkrig. A sheep 
 grass hereabouts and about Langham is Is. 6d. a year, 
 a beast grass 25. or 25. 6(i., butter is some 65. a stone. 
 They have little or nothing enclosed, neither of corn 
 ground, woods, or meadow, they have very little hay* 
 unless at a knight, leard, or lord's house some very 
 little. They use all or most part over Scotland (except 
 in Murray^ land which is the finest country in Scotland 
 for all kinds of fruit, of corn, and of trees, and all other 
 necessaries, it being most part enclosure) no enclosure 
 but staff herding each man though he have but one 
 
 ^ Sir James Pringle of Gallowshiels was then the head of the 
 Pringles, and Robert, though several generations from the main stem, 
 was a Hoppringle of that ilk, and therefore it was quite natural that he 
 should recommend the travellers to the head of his clan. For a further 
 account of Sir James, see Craig-Brown's History of Selhirkshire^ vol. i. 
 p. 631. 
 
 2 Selkirk. 
 
 3 Ashkirk ? 
 
 ^ " The word hay is Heathen-Greek to them, neither man or beast 
 knows what it means," says Sir Anthony Weldon in 1617. — Early 
 Travellers, p. 98. 
 
 ^ Bishop Leslie also gives a favourable account of the fertile lands 
 of Moray in 1578. Scotland Before 1700, p. 143. 
 
14 OUR JOURNALL INTO SCOTLAND. [l629. 
 
 beast whether of his own or of others taken to grass 
 night and day. They use too in these parts to cut 
 off the wool of the sheep's bellies that they may go 
 better among the ling^ to feed, and their sheep skins of 
 flayne or dead sheep they spelke^ them and hang them 
 up in their fire houses to dry, partly because they will 
 sell better, but chiefly because thej^ sell them by a 
 great company together to sell them, and hanging them 
 so will keep them. A sheep greaser will grease 30, some 
 40 sheep a day ; some use for sheep instead of tar the 
 gilly which cometh ofi" broom sodd in water, and make 
 salve of it with butter, as they do tar, and grease with 
 it, this learned I of Sir James Pringle of Gallowsheilds, 
 and because I was treating of sheep I thought good 
 to put it in this day's travel, being Friday. The 
 distances from Langham to Eus Church beside Micle- 
 dale HoUe^ 4 miles, betwixt Langham and this place 
 was it that my Lord Buckpleugh* did wapp^ the outlaws 
 into the dubb.^ From thence to the Frosterly burne^ 
 head, after the crossing of which we enter into Tuidale,^ 
 where the way that leadeth to Hawick called the Eead 
 road^ on the right hand meeteth with the way that 
 leadeth to Edinburgh, on the left hand. From thence to 
 Milcinton^^ my Lord BodwelFs^^ where the coal pits be 
 
 ^ A long thin grass — Jamieson, — but probably heather. 
 
 2 To support by splinters. — Jamieson. 
 
 3 Mickledale Hollow. 
 
 ^ The Keeper of Liddesdale was at this time, Walter, Lord Scott of 
 Buccleuch — the " Bold Buccleuch" in the Ballad oiKinmont Willie. 
 
 ^ Wap = to throw quickly. — Jamieson. 
 
 ^ Dub = a small pool of rain-water. — Jamieson. 
 
 '^ The Frosterly burn. 
 
 ^ Teviotdale. 
 
 ^ This may have been the old name for the road leading from the 
 Reed Water and Reedsdale to Hawick. 
 
 1^ Milsington near Hawick. 
 
 11 Francis, 2nd Earl of Bothwell. 
 
SELKIRK. 15 
 
 on the hill side beside Teat river. ^ From thence to the 
 Burn foot 4 miles, from thence to Askerton Kirk^ one 
 mile along the river Ayle,^ at which kirk we drank at 
 the vicar's house taken by an alehouse keeper, from 
 thence to an old gentleman's house a mile on this side 
 of Selkrigg where we enter into Etherikke^ forest, 2 
 miles. Just on this side is there a fair lough^ half a 
 mile long, about 340 yards broad, much fish in it, and 
 a boat on it ; at the end of it a fair house which the 
 Leard of Eiddall purchased it of Sir Eobert Scott of 
 Havin^ the name of the house purchased. 
 
 From Selkrigge to Sir James Pringle on Sunday in 
 the morning the 8th of November. At Selkerigg we 
 lodged at goodman Riddairs,"^ a burgess of the town, 
 the which town is a borough regal, for antiquity the 
 15 in the kingdom of Scotland ; it is governed by two 
 bailiffs,^ they keep courts of themselves and may hang 
 and punish according as their custom is. They have 
 a very pretty church^ where the hammermen and other 
 tradesmen have several seats mounted above the rest, 
 the gentlemen below the tradesmen in the ground 
 seats ; the women sit in the high end of the church, 
 with us the choir, there is one neat vaulted porch in 
 it, my Lord Bucplewgh's seat is the highest in the 
 church and he hath a proper"^^ passage into it in at the 
 outside of the vaulted porch. On a corner of the out- 
 
 1 Teviot river. ^ Aslikirktown. ^ The Ale. 
 
 4 Ettrick. ^ Haining loch. 
 
 6 The disposition by which Haining passed into the hands of the 
 Riddells bears the date 3rd Nov. 1625. 
 
 ^ Possibly John Riddel, several times Deacon of Tailors in Selkirk 
 from 1614 to 1645 (see History of Selkirk, ii. p. 207). 
 
 ^ It will be observed that Lowther uses the English term bailiff as 
 the equivalent of bailie. 
 
 ^ The old pre -reformation edifice which was taken down 1747 (see 
 History of Selkirk, ii. p. 231). lO Private. 
 
16 OUR JOURNALL INTO SCOTLAND. [l629. 
 
 side of the choir is fastened an iron chain with 
 a thing they call the Jogges/ which is for such as 
 offend but especially women brawlers, their head being 
 put through it, and another iron in their mouth, so 
 abiding foaming till such time as the bailiiSfs please to 
 dismiss them, it being in the time of divine service. 
 The form of it is a cross house, the steeple fair, hand- 
 somely tiled as the Koyal Exchange at London, it 
 having at each corner 4 pyramidal turrets, they call 
 them pricks ; my Lord Maxfeild's house at Langham 
 being of the form of the steeple. For the repair of 
 the churches, their presbyteries impose taxation on 
 the parishioners, the parson of the church looketh that 
 accordingly they be repaired and if any pay not his 
 tax he is put to the horn. The church was tiled 
 upon close joined boards and not lats.^ In the town 
 there were many fine buildings for hewn stone but 
 thatched, it is as great as Appleby. The women are 
 churched before the service begins ; through Scotland 
 the people in church when the parson saith any 
 prayers they use a hummering kind of lamentation 
 for their sins.^ The inhabitants at Selkrig are a 
 drunken kind of people. They have good victuals 
 throughout the kingdom, unless it be towards the 
 South- West, but cannot dress it well. Here had we 
 a choking smoky chamber, and drunken unruly 
 
 1 Mr Lowther lias confounded this with the branks. The Juggs was 
 a kind of pillory, the offender being fastened to a wall or post by an 
 iron collar ; the Branhs was an instrument of punishment for female 
 scolds, placed at the doors of churches. It was made of iron and 
 surrounded the head, while a large triangular piece was put into the 
 mouth. An example of the former can still be seen on the wall of 
 Duddingston Churchyard near Edinburgh. 
 
 2 Laths. 
 
 ^ A relic of this custom might have been observed in Mr Davidson's 
 church in Brodick some 20 years ago. 
 
GALASHIELS. 17 
 
 company thrust in upon us called for wine and ale 
 and left it on our score. About tins town and all 
 the way to Edinburgh is good ground, but nearer 
 Edinburgh the better and still more spacious. 
 
 From Selkerigge to ^ 2 miles, Ettrick and 
 
 Yarrow, 2 rivers, running through Ettrick Forest, which 
 is a sheriffdom (as Richmondshire in Yorkshire) in Tivi- 
 dale. There be yet some w^oods of Ettrick Forest along 
 the two rivers remaining. Yarrow runneth into Ettrick 
 about half a mile or more from Selkrige, and about a 
 mile lower runneth Ettrick into Tweed, and about half 
 a mile beneath that we take coble over Tweed, the 
 form of it is as it were half of one of our barks. From 
 ^ to Gallowsheilds, 2 miles, to which place 
 is excellent good ground, and to Sir James Pringle 
 his house ^ did we go and there were we wondrous 
 courteously entertained, he is one of the best husbands 
 in the country as appeareth by his planting and 
 suffering his tenants to hold on him by planting 6 
 fruit trees or 12 other trees, and if they fail, to pay 
 for every tree not planted Ad,, he also finding two 
 fallers mills and two corn mills. The town is a 
 borough-barony, he himself is the sheriff of Ettrick and 
 hath been these three years together, he is also a com- 
 missioner in the same sheriffdom, of which there be 
 divers in all the sheriffdoms of Scotland, they being 
 of the nature of our justices of assize in their circuits, 
 above justices of peace ; he is also a convener of justice, 
 a justice of peace, he is a great man in his country. 
 There are of the Pringles for some 8 miles up Gallo- 
 water, gentlemen all of pretty seats and buildings. 
 
 ^ Blank in original — ? Lindean. 
 2 Blank in original — ? Boldside. 
 
 2 Old Gala House, see History of SelJcirJc, vol. i. p. 541. 
 
 B 
 
18 OUR JOURNALL INTO SCOTLAND. [l629. 
 
 On the Sunday as soon as we came to the town we 
 alighted and went to the church to him, he took us into 
 his own seat, the one of the one side of him, and the 
 other of the other side, we heard a good sermon the 
 fore and afternoon, there was the finest seats I have 
 anywhere seen, and the orderliest church/ Beside 
 him is the Meageld hill, which word Meageld was a 
 watch word to gather those of a company when they 
 were dispersed in war.^ He hath a very pretty park, 
 with many natural walks in it, artificial ponds and 
 arbours now a making, he hath neat gardens and 
 orchards, and all his tenants through his care, he hath 
 abundance of cherry trees, bearing a black cherry, 
 some of which I see to be about 30 yards high and a 
 fathom thick (sic), great store of sycamores, trees he 
 calleth silk trees, and fir trees. He gave very great 
 respect, and said he heard of my father's fame. I see 
 there the finest gun I ever beheld which was the King of 
 Spain's. In Scotland the wives alter not their surnames. 
 They served up the dinner and supper with their hats 
 on before their master, each dish covered with another, 
 then was there a bason withheld for to wash our hands 
 before we sat down, then being seated Sir James said 
 grace. Their cheer was big pottage,^ long kale, bowe or 
 white kale,^ which is cabbage, breoh sopps (?), powdered 
 beef, roast and boiled mutton, a venison pie in the form 
 of an egg, goose, then cheese, a great company of little 
 
 ^ The church of Galashiels was huilt in 1617, and is described by the 
 Commissioners in 1622 as " well built, comety apparalled." — History of 
 Selkirk, i. p. 486. 
 
 2 Meigle hill — locally called Maigelt. Although it is not kno\\^i that 
 the Pringles had a war-cry, yet the name of this hill may have been the 
 gathering-cry of the Pringles as Bellenden was of the Scotts. 
 
 3 Big = barley — potage = broth with vegetables in it. — Jamieson. 
 
 ^ Bow-kail = cabbage, so called from the circular form of this plant. 
 — Jamieson, 
 
GALASHIELS. 19 
 
 bits laid on a pewter platter, and cheese also uncut, 
 then apples, then the table-cloth taken off and a towel 
 the whole breadth of the table and half the length of 
 it, a bason and ewer to wash, then a green carpet laid 
 on, then one cup of beer set on the carpet, then a little 
 long lawn serviter,^ plaited up a shilling or little more 
 broad, laid cross over the corner of the table and a glass 
 of hot water set down also on the table, then be there 
 three boys to say grace, the 1st the thanks-giving, the 
 2nd the pater noster, the 3rd a prayer for a blessing to 
 God's church, the good-man of the house, his parents, 
 kinsfolk, and the whole company, they then do drink 
 hot waters, so at supper, when to bed, the collation ^ 
 which [is] a doupe ^ of ale ; and also in the morn and 
 at other times when a man desireth to drink one gives 
 them first beer holding him the narrow serviter to 
 dry his mouth with, and a wheat loaf and a knife, and 
 when one hath drunk he cutteth him a little bread in 
 observance of the old rule, Incipe cum liquido sicca 
 Jinire memento. When we came away in the morn 
 having walked abroad into park, gardens, and other 
 places, and having very well with rost &c. {sic) Sir 
 James set us 2 miles, and his 2nd, his eldest son 
 better than 4, and writ us letters to Edinburgh. The 
 Pringles glory in that they were never but on the 
 King's part in all the troublesome times, and they there- 
 fore of the states were envied, for they never ' lowped ' ^ 
 out with any of the lords nor were attainted.^ 
 
 1 A linen napkin, 
 
 2 " A drink when one goeth to bed." See p. 43. 
 ^ Stoup = a pot or flagon, 
 
 4 " To loup in " = to change one's side or party suddenly. — Jamieson. 
 
 ^ It is sad to tliink that Sir James' later years were embittered by 
 pecuniary embarrassment, and that he had to leave his family mansion 
 for Smailliolm Tower, where he died in 1635. 
 
20 OUR JOURNALL INTO SCOTLAND. [l629. 
 
 Sir James told us of a man that said to king James 
 when he was hunting that he would show him a buck 
 that would let him take him by the baaes, stones, 
 speaking jestingly. At Sir James' house they have a 
 thing called a palm^ in nature of our ferula, but thicker, 
 for blasphemers. England and Scotland wooed roughly 
 before they wedded. Sir John Scott ^ one of the secret 
 council is his son's wife's father. 
 
 Gallow water runneth into Tweed about a mile 
 beneath Gallowsheilds and a little beneath its meeting 
 with Tweed. On Tweed there hath been a very strong 
 fortified bridge ^ having the tower yet standing which 
 was the gate to the bridge in old time. 3 miles over 
 the hills side on Gallowsheilds is Lauderdale, Lauder 
 itself being one of the ancientest burghs there abouts 
 who will take toll on the King. In it dwell many of 
 the Landers, one of whose houses^ is very fine one, there 
 running a river hard by it called Lauder. Of this 
 Lauderdale Viscount Metlin^ or Matlin is viscount. 
 The gentlemen and gentlewomen call their men and 
 maids Misters and Mistresses. 
 
 From Gallowshields to Windeleys,^ one of the 
 Pringles, 2 miles, it stands in a dale up which dale is 
 a pretty wood on our left hand ; within the sight of 
 the same side another of the Pringles, his house is 
 called Torretleys^ on the other side of the water on the 
 
 1 A willow-rod ? 
 
 2 Sir John Scott of Scotstarvet. 
 
 ^ Spanning the Tweed at a place now called Bridgend near Melrose 
 — see Scott's Monastery, note to Chap. V., for a description of this draw- 
 bridge. 
 
 ^ Thirlestane Castle. 
 
 ^ John Maitland, 2nd baron, was created Viscount Lauderdale 1616, 
 and Earl of Lauderdale in 1624. 
 
 6 Blindlee Tower, the foundations only of which are now visible. 
 
 "^ Torwoodlee. 
 
GALASHIELS TO EDINBURGH. 21 
 
 right hand is another of them, his house is called 
 Buckholme/ and by the water side he hath a wood 
 called the Buckholme. From thence to Herret's^ houses, 
 a guest house where we alighted, is 8 miles, in which 
 space we crossed the Gallo water some 20 times. From 
 thence to Fallow Burne^ where we enter into Lowden^ 
 one mile, from the Fallow Burne to Borthacke ^ Castle 
 1 mile, from thence to Stobhill 2 miles, where all the 
 coal pits are of the Leard of Erniston,^ a Seton,^ and 
 Stonnobiars ^ a lord's seat that was standing in a wood 
 along a river side, all which now Seton the leard of 
 Erniston hath bought of the Lord of Steanbiars, which 
 Erniston for his wealth might buy out a lord or two. 
 From the Stobhill in view on our left hand some 4 
 miles ojff is Erniston, a fine seat, from the Stobhill to 
 Dawertey ^ upon the river Keeth ^^ and a stone bridge 
 over it, my Lord Eamsey's house seated on a rock, a 
 fine building ; 1 mile from thence down the river 
 Keeth ^^ not in sight and out of our way my lord of 
 Newbattell^^ who sticked himself. From my Lord 
 Eamsey's in our way to Laswade a market town one 
 
 1 Buckliolm, subsequently the scene of the laying of the ghost of a 
 " Laird of Buckholm" — see History of Selkirk, i. 491. 
 
 2 Heriot. 
 
 ^ Falla, now Cakemuir burn. 
 
 ^ Lothian. 
 
 ^ Borthwick. 
 
 ^ Arniston. 
 
 ^ Probably a mistake for Dundas, as the Tower of Newbyres was 
 acquired by Sir James Dundas in 1624 from Borthwick of Glengelt. 
 
 ^ Newbyres Tower, the ruins of which are still standing, and are 
 figured in the Arniston Memoirs, p. 19. 
 
 ^ Dalhousie. 
 
 1^ Dalhousie burn. 
 
 11 The South Esk. 
 
 12 Robert, 2nd Earl of Lothian, died 1624. " The Earle of Lothiane 
 upon the aucht of yis instant cutt'd his awne throate in his study at 
 Newbottell — from the lyke deid the lord preserve us all." — Letter from 
 G-ilbert Gordon to Sir Eobert Gordon, Mar. 1624. 
 
22 OUR JOURNALL INTO SCOTLAND. [l629. 
 
 mile, it is seated on a goodly river and a stone bridge 
 over it called the South river/ From the Las wade 
 to Liberton church 2 miles, from Liberton to Edin- 
 burgh 2 miles. The hemisphere's circumference from 
 Edinburgh is mountains, as is Westmoreland from 
 about Lowther, but something plainer, and their 
 mountains not so high. In view from Edinburgh 
 4 miles southwards is Keeth,^ a borough where all 
 the witches are burned,^ and Earl Morton's house is.* 
 
 There is also in view from Edinburgh's craggs 
 Musselburgh upon the Frith's side some 4 or 5 miles 
 off where the famous battle^ was fought betwixt the 
 Scotch and English. From Edinburgh about a mile 
 eastwards is Leith, the chief haven, having belonging 
 to it 150 sail of ships holding about 200 tons.^ The 
 lords, merchants, and gentlemen join in putting out 
 ships to take prizes, of which we saw some 3 or 4 
 French and Flemings they had taken, there is a 
 pretty harbour. This town was taken and burnt by 
 the Frenchmen in Queen Elizabeth's time, and she 
 sent the English which did remove them, some houses 
 
 1 Now the North Esk. 
 
 2 Dalkeith. 
 
 3 Unfortunately, Dalkeith was not the only place where witches were 
 burnt, as our criminal trials too often exhibit examples of the dreadful 
 cruelty perpetrated upon these unfortunate women. I am indebted to 
 Mr A. Francis Steuart for the following extract from the Presbytery 
 Records of Dalkeith for May 10, 1627: — " No exercise this day be reason 
 ye breither waited on ye burning of Elet Brown, fugitive out of Inver- 
 keithing, convict of witchcraft." 
 
 ^ Dalkeith Palace, sold, with the barony, to the Buccleuch family in 
 1642. 
 
 5 Pinkie, 1547. 
 
 ^ If this statement is correct, there must have been a considerable 
 falling off in the shipping at this port during the next 25 years, since it 
 appears from Tucker's account that Leith had then (1655) only twelve 
 or fourteen vessels, " two or three whereof are of some two or three 
 hundred tuns apiece, the rest small vessells for ladeing and carryeing 
 out salt." — Early Travellers, p. 166. 
 
LEITH. 23 
 
 we saw which were burnt but not yet re-edified ; before 
 that time it w^as walled about, but now it is yet 
 better than Carlisle, having in it two fairer churches ^ 
 for inwork than any I saw in London, with two 
 seats-royal in either. There be also two hospitals^ 
 one of which the sailors built, the other the tradesmen, 
 there is a stone bridge^ over the river Leith here, 
 hard by the town be oysters dragged which go to 
 Newcastle, Carlisle and all places thereabouts, they 
 being under 3d. the 100. All their churches be 
 lofted stage wise about Edinburgh, Leith, &c., the 
 women at Leith in one church had loose chairs all 
 along before the men's seats. It is governed by two 
 bailiffs. Eniskeith^ an isle in the Firth, a mile or 
 two by water from Leith is famous for a fort on a 
 rock in the same which the Frenchmen took when 
 they took Leith (the English built it), and left a 
 remembrance of their being there written in latin on 
 stone. At Leith dwelleth my Lady Lincey who 
 married her 6 daughters to 6 knights. On our right 
 hand as we go to Leith is the castle of Stenick,^ old 
 
 1 St. Mary's (South Leith) Church was restored in 1848 and is still 
 in use, and St. Ninians (North Leith) Church was in use till the opening 
 of the New Parish Church of North Leith in 1816. 
 
 2 The Seaman's Hospital was dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and 
 Trinity House now stands on the site of the original building. A stone 
 mth the following inscription is let into the wall facing Giles Street: 
 *' In the name of the Lord Ye Masteris and Marineris Bylis this Hous 
 to ye Pour Anno Domini 1555." The other stood on the east side of 
 the Kirkgate and was called King James's Hospital. It was built in 1614, 
 and the site now forms part of South Leith churchyard. 
 
 ^ Robert Ballantyne's bridge, built in 1493. When sketched by 
 Clerk of Eldin in 1779, it appears to have been then in use, but 
 now only part of one of the piers remains. 
 
 ^ Inchkeith was fortified by the English in 1548, but when the French 
 marched out of Leith in 1560 they left by arrangement sixty of their 
 number in the castle on that island. It was, however, captured from the 
 French the same year. 
 
 ^ Probably Sterrock, the local name for Restalrig to this day. 
 
24 OUR JOURNALL INTO SCOTLAND. [l629. 
 
 and ruinated ; the town of Leith is a borough, but 
 holding on Edinburgh as Kingston-upon-HuU on 
 York. The fort in Eniskeith hath yet command of 
 the sea if it be well manned it will hold a thousand 
 men. The passage in at the harbour at Leith is 
 dangerous by reason of sprtes (sic) and shelves/ they 
 cannot lash in but at a full sea. The harbour is com- 
 passed in with wooden fabrics 3 fathoms high and about 
 2 broad, strengthened by great stones throw^n into 
 the frame all but where the ships enter in at being 
 but narrow.^ White wine was there at 3d, the 
 muskin, which is a pint. 
 
 Beyond the Frith in the sight of Edinburgh is 
 Bruntelin, a harbour, town, and borough of regality, 
 governed by a provost, who knoweth my Lord of 
 Bruntelin a Melvin,^ dwelling there and 2 bailiffs, 
 and 2 officers and sergeants. Their provost in 
 Scotland is in nature of our mayor, bailiffs in nature 
 of our sergeants-at-mace, or rather chosen to aid them, 
 the officers they arrest if the bailiffs give them but 
 warrant by word bid them, they are in nature of 
 our bailiffs, and bear halberds. Here is a church 
 square built, and it hath a seat-royal in it, there are 
 no more churches in it, but yet they have a pretty 
 ' towbeoth.'* The Frith betwixt Leith and Bruntelin 
 or Kengoren ^ 7 miles, a mile or two above Bruntelin 
 is Aberdour a ^ the water ^ running through 
 
 it, one side my Lord of Morton s, the other side my 
 
 ■^ Qy, Spates and shoals, i.e., floods and sandbanks. 
 
 2 See Scotland before 1700, p. 318. 
 
 ^ Sir Robert Melville of Burntisland, one of the Lords of Session 
 from 1601 to 1626. He succeeded his father as Lord Melville of Moni- 
 mail in 1621, and died at Edinburgh, March 9, 1635. 
 
 ^ Tolbooth = originally a place where toll or custom was taken, but 
 now the term for a prison or jail. 
 
 ^ Kinghorn. ^ Blank in original. "^ Dour burn. 
 
KINGHORN AND KIRKCALDY. 25 
 
 Lord Murray's, a mile down from Bruntelin towards 
 the main sea is Kengoren, a haven for boats and 
 barks, all within the view of Edinburgh crags, and 
 a borough regal, one Lyon is earl of it/ One church ; 
 hard by it is there a spawewell.^ 
 
 A mile beneath Kingorin is a borough regal and 
 haven as big as Leith called Kirkaldy a borough 
 regal ; one church, one towbeoth. 
 
 A mile beneath Kirkaldy is there another harbour 
 for boats and barks as Kingoren called Dysart the 
 wealthiest and biggest of that coast. Kirkaldy and 
 this have markets every day in the week, Bruntelin 
 and Kingoren but one day, it is a borough regal, a 
 mile beneath it is Weemes, a borough and barony 
 on the sea coast, no haven, and Colinn^ is lord of 
 Weemes. 
 
 Now having gone about the circumference I will 
 come to the centre, videlicet — Edinburgh, whither 
 we came on the 9th of November; there dismounted 
 we ourselves at Mrs. Robertson's the stabler in 
 College-wind where during our abode our horses 
 were, and fed with straw and oats, no hay ; straw, 
 24 hours 3d. — oats 3d. a capp* which is a hoop. 
 From thence we went to our lodmno: at Mrs. Russell's 
 in Bell-wind. An agent who is in nature of our 
 English attorney's and three of us paid for our 
 chambers, fire, and bedding lOd. 24 hours which [is] 
 5s, lOd, the week, ordinary we had none but paid 
 for what we called. That night being wearied we 
 
 1 John, 2nd Earl of Kingliorn, an ancestor of the Earl of Strathmore. 
 
 2 Taylor the Water-Poet gives a description of this well in 1618; and 
 for further information, see Early Travellers, p. 113. 
 
 ^ Prohably James, 2nd Lord Colville of Culross, grandson of Sir 
 James Colville of Easter Wemyss. 
 
 * Cap = the fourth part of a peck. — Jamieson. 
 
26 OUR JOURNALL INTO SCOTLAND. [l629. 
 
 rested ourselves, the next day viewed we their castle 
 which is mounted on stately rocksj having the whole 
 town of Edinburgh, Leith, and the sea in its eye ; 
 there is a fair pair of gates with stone cut work but 
 not finished, the porter had our swords to keep until 
 we came back again out of the castle, there were 
 about some 20 pieces of ordnance ready mounted, 
 brass and iron, one piece of ordnance^ there was 
 bigger than any else either in the munition house 
 or any other which I saw to be about 4 yards long, 
 and the diameter 20 inches, there being a child 
 gotten in it as by all it was reported, the bullet of 
 stone she shooteth is of weight 19 stone 4 pounds 
 3 ounces, after the troy- weight 20 pounds to 
 the stone ; there be great many of vaults some 
 6 yards by , which the castle keepers say would 
 
 contain 1000 men. The building is no bigger than 
 Appleby castle, within it is a powder mill, corn 
 mill, &c. There is also a hewn stone well 30 fathoms 
 deep, the water is drawn up with a wheel which one 
 goeth in, it is hewn so deep through a rock of blue- 
 stone ; there be little wooden watch-houses, to watch 
 in every night. 
 
 From the castle we went to the Courts where we 
 saw all the 14 Lords sitting in the inner house in 
 their robes, being a violet colour faced with crimson 
 velvet of the fashion of our Judges, the 15th Lord 
 sitteth in the outer house. The chief of these 15 is 
 the Chancellor, the 2nd the Lord President, the 3rd 
 the Lord Advocate, the other 12 sit in council in 
 the outer house each third week, beginning at the 
 ancientest [1st of the inner house and 15th of the 
 house itself, then of the laws and order of the house, 
 
 1 Mons Meg. 
 
EDINBURGH. 
 
 27 
 
 then so of the outer house],"' and of the commissary's 
 court, and of the force of the presbyteries, &c. 
 
 [The Inner House,]^ 
 The Courts} 
 
 * The passages in brackets are struck out in the original. 
 
 A, the stairs up into the Courts ; h, the commissary 
 court ; d, the door into it ; c, a void place to walk in ; 
 
 1 At the time of Lowther's visit, the Lords of Session sat in that 
 part of St. Giles' Church latterly called the Tolbooth Kirk, and the 
 above plan probably represents the nave of the Church, which was 
 cut off from the rest of the building by a partition wall. 
 
 Chambers, in his ReeMana, p. 174, says: — "There are many passages 
 in old books and manuscripts which render this fact quite plain, 
 though, curious as it is, it has never been hinted at in any history of 
 the city." He gives the following quotations in support of his state- 
 ment from, 1st, The Memorie of the Somervilles, written in the reign of 
 Charles II. " The regent [Morton] went to the house [that is, the 
 meeting-place of the Court of Session] , which was the same which is 
 now the Tolbuith Church." 2nd, '' When the noted tumult of 
 December 17, 1596, broke out in the Little Kirk, King James was 
 sitting in the Tolbooth adjoining (for the church had now got this 
 name), superintending, as was his frequent custom, the administration 
 
28 OUR JOURNALL INTO SCOTLAND. [l629. 
 
 g, a wainscot partition ; e, a door which a maser 
 keepeth ; f, the place where those in readiness which 
 have business; 16, a wall crossing over-thwarte ; K, a 
 door through the high wooden partition into the 
 outward house the 2nd court ; g, stagewise seats into 
 which any may go out of the void place (viz. c) ; i.j, 
 a pale to forlet any to go off from the stagewise seats 
 into the Court ; h, a long backed seat for lawyers and 
 expectants to sit on ; I, the door in at which the Macer 
 and Judges, &c., go within the bar; m, another door 
 on either side of which the advocates, defendant, and 
 pursuant, plead ; n, a place for the idle advocates to 
 chat and walk in ; o, a seat where the Registers sit at 
 the table p ; g, the two ascending seats on the lowest 
 of which other clerks and registers sit, on the highest 
 the single Judge ; 7, a wall ; r, a door out of the 
 outer house into a walking place before the inner 
 house over which hangeth a bell the string of which 
 goeth into the inner house by the judges' heads ; s, 
 another door into the inner house retiring place ; S, 
 a partition wall ; t, the door into the inner house ; 
 V, a door into a severed place for any man's private 
 
 of Justice." Issachars Burden, by Bishop Manwell in the Phcenix. 
 3rd, Row's History of the Church of Scotland. " 1633. In the month of 
 August this year the town of Edinburgh, being earnestly desired by 
 their ministers to provide another house for a Parliament House, and 
 wherein actions may be pleaded rather than a ' pairt of the Kirk, where 
 God's word should be preached,' " &c. 
 
 Besides these he might have instanced Father Alexander Baillie's 
 account of the secular uses to which the church was put in 1628, 
 quoted by Dr Laing in his Charters of St. Ones'. 
 
 Chambers also states that the Tolbooth Kirk continued to be 
 the meeting-place of the Court of Session, till the present Parhament 
 House was finished in 1640, when it was finally restored as a church. 
 
 In making this inquiry I have been cordially assisted by ex-Bailie 
 Peter Miller, F.S.A. Scot., who has kindly placed at my disposal some 
 materials regarding the existence of the various Tolbooths in Edinburgh. 
 These I have printed at the end of the book as an Appendix. 
 
EDINBURGH. 29 
 
 dispatch, as for writing of letters or other things, 
 conferences, &c. ; w, the seats and table ; x, a vacant 
 place for clients and other concourse during the ad- 
 vocate's pleading or motion before the Judges ; z and 
 ^, the bar on both sides of the door, the one for the 
 defendants and their advocates, the other for the 
 pursuers, &c. ; y, the entrance for the Judges and 
 Kegisters ; 5, the table with 3 sides about the out- 
 side of which, on 8, sit the Judges, my Lord Chan- 
 cellor in the midst and in a black gown, the President 
 of the sessions on his right hand in a purple gown 
 faced with red velvet, and so the rest of the lords 
 except the Lord Advocate, who is in black, and sitteth 
 in the corner 3, and in degree is next the President ; 
 he is in nature of the King s Attorney at London, 
 and pleads for the King when anything toucheth him, 
 and also for other persons and still with his hat on if 
 so it please him ; 4, the form before the table on 
 which the Eegisters sit, being men of good esteem, 
 but bare-headed ; 2, the door to the chimney ; 10, the 
 chimney, over the head is it fine fret plaister work, 
 and in the windows behind the Judges are there the 
 volumes of their law. Under part of these Courts is 
 there another court called the Court of Justice, and 
 hard by is the Lord Provost's Court, and first of the 
 Commissary's Court beginning ex minimis^ to it be- 
 longeth 4 Judges which formerly have been advocates, 
 they be, as I perceived not much respected, the matter 
 of the court be legacies, wills and testaments, debts 
 under 40?. sterling, yet one may have a man for 1000 ^ 
 or more, but then it must be in general debts, never \ 
 one amounting to above 40?. Their trials are wholly \ 
 by oath and witnesses. Next, of the outer court, \ 
 which doth but as it were prepare things for the 
 
30 OUK JOURNALL INTO SCOTLAND. [l629. 
 
 inner house, here doth sit always but one judge, and 
 he is one of the 12 of the 15, which 12 according to 
 their seniority sit here each their week in course, the 
 other 3, viz. the Chancellor, President, and Lord 
 Advocate are exempted. In the morning still before 
 the Judge comes in be all the parties called into court 
 which that day shall have any business, then entereth 
 in the judge, and all trivial civil matters he 
 judgeth and likewise all great matters he handleth 
 and at leastways prepare th if not judgeth it himself 
 and if any like not of the judgment of this court they 
 may have it to the inner house, but if the judges 
 of the inner find the judgment to be good, the 
 party which troubled the inner house with it will be 
 punished, the process of the court being 1st a sum- 
 mons, attachments, &c., then a Ditte which is in 
 nature of our declaration, to which the Defender most 
 commonly answereth by w^ord himself and not by 
 way of replication in writing, and if it be about a 
 Horning matter which is in nature of our outlawing, 
 then there goeth forth a caption and upon that a 
 Horning, which Horning is publicly read on the 
 market cross at Edinburgh. Now a Horning is a 
 writing setting forth the whole matter and cause of it, 
 with the reasons why so, and this Horninge pro- 
 nounceth him a rebel, and yet notwithstanding this 
 Horning may be reversed, as our outlawry. In this 
 court is always great noise and confusion, but the 
 inner house very orderly as shall appear, it only 
 medleth with things not determined or where his 
 judgment is disliked. When they are all set the 
 door is shut and none but themselves there they will 
 ring a bell (and then openeth the Maser the door) when 
 they have any business, and the Maser as they bid 
 
EDINBURGH. 31 
 
 him will call the parties and their advocates whom they 
 would have which go in thereupon with their cause ; 
 at which time the Maser will suffer any stranger to 
 go in and hear the cause pleaded upon acquaintance. 
 The form of their pleading is 1st, the advocates and 
 their clients stand each on either side of the door 
 through the bar, at the bar, and the advocates plead 
 in Scotch before them, and in the then time of their 
 pleading their clients will put a double piece or more, 
 wdth an ordinary fee with the poorest, and will say to 
 their advocates ' thumb it thumb it,' and then will 
 the advocates plead accordingly as they feel it weigh. 
 Their pleading is but a kind of motion, and especially 
 the first 6 weeks in the session for then is there 
 nothing else but motions. Most of their law is Acts of 
 Parliament and Eegiam majestatem, and their judg- 
 ments given in court which we call reports, only they 
 corroborate their cause with civil arguments and 
 reasons. After their motion which is but short, they 
 are all dismissed, the door shut, and then it is voted 
 amongst the judges and according to the number 
 of votes it is carried, and then the Chancellor, if 
 present, if not, the President, and if not he, in order 
 the next, giveth sentence accordingly, it still remaining 
 hidden to the parties the carriage of the matter ; and 
 so when this matter is done to the next, but note 
 that the parties with their advocates will acquaint the 
 Judges with their case before it comes to hearing, 
 which they say maketh quicker dispatch, and note 
 further that advocates will commonly have a 'kowe'^ 
 or such like thing sent them to make way unto them 
 for their clients beside their fees, by which exorbitant 
 kind of fees they become the greatest purchasers in 
 
 ^ Kow — custom, — Jamieson. 
 
32 OUR JOURNALL INTO SCOTLAND. [l629. 
 
 the kingdom. They have most of them been tra- 
 vellers and studied in France, but whether they have 
 studied at home or in France they thus proceed, ad- 
 vocates, viz. : — they first get a petition to the Judges 
 that they may not be hindered by the Masers, but 
 have free access to the Courts, [and] hear their manner 
 of pleading, from which time till they be advocates 
 they are called Expectants. Now as soon as they 
 think themselves fit and dare venture to undergo trial, 
 they will further petition to have a lesson, to dispute 
 a question before the Judge, upon which if they be 
 thought suflicient they are admitted and sworn 
 advocates. A story — One being to [be] made Judge 
 of the Session not long ago, there being in his oath 
 not to be partial, he excepted to his friends and allies. 
 Another — A borderer in a Jury gave amongst his 
 fellows wittingly a false verdict, and being asked why 
 he did it, he said it is better to trust God with 
 one's soul than their neighbour with their geere. The 
 poor clients say there be great delays in actions 
 some 7 years, some 12, 20, 27, &c., but the ad- 
 vocates shufile it ofi" and deny it, yet I heard of one 
 who ofi*ered the one half to recover the other, and for 
 an advocate or other to buy an action depending in suit 
 it is common with them, and they hold it reason that 
 when a man cannot defend his own cause that he sell 
 to another who can. Forgery is death with them, 
 perjury the loss of their hand or ears, as the quality 
 of the persons requireth. If a clerk do but mis write 
 anything it is death. Hereditaments descend, con- 
 quests purchases ascend, as from the son to the father, 
 dower and conjunct fee, jointure is as in England, 
 almost. The form of their writings is almost the 
 same with ours, their dignities, wards, reliefs, and 
 
EDINBURGH. 33 
 
 marriages as with us ; but not the form of marriages, 
 they are asked in the church as with us, the priest will 
 appoint what company they shall h^ve at church, but 
 after marriage there will be continual feasting and 
 mirth for some 4 or 5 days together, during all which 
 time there will be presents offered to them, as all 
 kinds of household stuff, feather beds, pots, pans, &c., 
 and goods, as sheep, oxen, horses, kine, &c., often to 
 the value of 500?. sterling, but according as the person 
 is more or less ; for offerings in the church they do not 
 use. Men seldom change their servants ; the gentle- 
 men and knights, &c., usually do ride with trumpets. 
 The last year, 1628, the Judges went circuits, but it is 
 doubted whether they will hereafter do so or not. 
 The Scotch nobility do dilapidate their estates and 
 impoverish their own kingdom by frequenting the 
 English Court. Their trading is almost wholly with 
 England, their wines excepted, which they buy in 
 France custom free in regard of their old league with 
 them. Their own chief commodities are grain, sheep, 
 and runts,^ salt and coal, and of coal it is observed 
 that there is none but between Trent in England and 
 Tay in Scotland, which cometh from a great lough 
 so called, and glideth by Perth and Dundee. Lough 
 Nesse beside Murray-Land and the river which runneth 
 from it is so fierce that it never freezeth and though 
 ice come out of another river into it yet it instantly 
 thaweth and becometh water. That of Lough Mirton, 
 Lough Lomond, the Deaf stone, and the Cleke geese is 
 reported for truth as HoHngshead writes it.^ There be 
 
 1 Cattle. 
 
 2 All these marvels are described by Boece in 1527 — wliose account 
 of Scotland was embodied in '' Holinslied's Chronicle.'' For Boece's 
 remarks on Loch Ness, Loch Merton in Galloway, Loch Lomond, the 
 Deaf Stone near Ayr, and the Barnacle Geese, see Scotland before 1700 y 
 pp. 74, 69, 71, 70, and 89. 
 
 C 
 
34 OUR JOURNALL INTO SCOTLAND. [l629. 
 
 at this time three of the greatest men in the kingdom 
 papists and their eldest sons protestants, which is 
 remarkable, viz., Argyll, Hamilton, and Huntley whose 
 eldest son is esteemed the ablest man of body in the 
 kingdom, and will familiarly go in the mountains after 
 the deer 80 miles a day.^ But I am afraid I have 
 digressed and therefore I will return to the courts. 
 The sheriffs be now most of them annually chosen, 
 and the sheriff of Lothian this year, 1629, is my 
 cousin Sir Lewis Lowther^ who was very glad to see 
 me. He keepeth his court twice a week, in the after- 
 noon, Wednesday and Friday in the outer court, at 
 which times the 4 Lord Justices sit upon criminal 
 matters in their own court, and their criminal 
 offenders may have advocates to plead for their lives 
 before the Judges. Over the Lords of the session be 
 there 4 other lords of the Secret Council, which may 
 sit and give their votes amongst them if they will, and 
 they be but as spies over the rest to mark their doings, 
 and inform the king of it. The general Justice which 
 is through the Kingdom is by the conveners of justice 
 at Quarter Sessions Commissioners when it pleaseth 
 them, and sheriffs at their courts when they appoint 
 them, but the Judges of the session bear such a hand 
 over them as they will call in question almost every 
 thing they do, let them do the best they can. When 
 one is out of the Borders, and especially the further 
 North-east is very safe travelling, safer than in 
 England ; and much civiller be they, and plainer 
 
 ^ ? George, afterwards Snd Marquis of Huntly, who was executed 
 twenty years later at the Market Cross in Edinburgh as an adherent 
 of Charles I. 
 
 2 On p. 46 he is alluded to as Sir Lewis Lawder, Sheriff of 
 Lothian, but I have been unable to verify the statement, as no list of 
 the Sheriffs of Lothian of this date is accessible. 
 
EDINBURGH. 85 
 
 English, yea, better than at Edinburgh. Their tillage 
 like ours they use much liming of their ground, and 
 they plough their ground all in winter, and in the 
 spring then only harroweth it and soweth it. Their 
 mason and joiner work is as good if not better than in 
 England, most of their wear is English cloth. They 
 have very good meat, fish, flesh, and fowl great store, 
 but dress it not well ; in the South it is as dear as in 
 the South of England, but in the North, about Dum- 
 barton and thereabouts wondrous cheap, a goose for 
 4(i., and so proportionably of other things. Their 
 drink is almost altogether ale and hot waters, and in 
 the North most hot waters ; wine is 6d. a quart, sack 
 Is. l^d. 
 
 Now having passed through the Courts we will enter 
 the town, in which there is but one street of note called 
 the High Street, beginning at the Castle and going 
 down to the Neitherbowe which is one of the bars or 
 gates of the city, and strait on to the Abbey which is 
 the King's Palace, but the street from the Netherbowe 
 to the Abbey is called the Cannongate, the one side of 
 which is a liberty of itself, the other side belongeth to 
 Edinburgh, as Holborn one side to London the other 
 to Westminster. They have a fine Towbeoth^ and 
 prison in it, this street and the High Street are but 
 one street called by strangers, the next street is 
 Cowgate within the city as long as either of them but 
 narrower, the rest but winds and closes some 2 yards 
 broad. The Abbey is a very stately piece of work 
 uniform, and a dainty neat chapel in it, with a pair of 
 organs in it, and none else in the city, they being 
 puritans. There be fine prisons of a great height, and 
 fine hewn stone buildings. There be 5 churches, of 
 
 1 Canongate Tolbooth, built in 1591 and still standing. 
 
86 OUR JOURNALL INTO SCOTLAND. [l629. 
 
 which St. Giles' is chief because of the stately steeple, 
 — before Bowbells church in London, having in it one 
 great bell which they do not ring but tolls at 10 o'clk 
 at night, and 4 others. At Grey Friars their tombs 
 be in the church-yard walls but none in the church, 
 there is one hospital within the walls, another without, 
 which Herret^ the King's jeweller at his decease gave 
 money to build it. There is one college which King 
 James founded, being governed by a primate and other 
 sub-regents to read to the several years which follow 
 here in order, there be 5 classes or seats in it, 1st of 
 Humanity, the 2nd of Greek, 3rd of Logic, the 4th of 
 Natural philosophy, the 5th of Mathematics, and Arist 
 de coelo.^ The 1st year of students be called scholars, 
 the 2nd Semibijani, the 3rd Semibijani, the 4th 
 bachelors, the next degree. Laureates or Masters of 
 Arts,^ and no further, tutors they call pedagogues. 
 We supped with Mr. Addamsonn,^ primate of the same 
 on Thursday at night, and much made on were we. 
 There is one part of the college built by the Senate 
 and people of Edinburgh, which is better than any 
 part of the college beside, with this inscription, 
 Senatus populusque Edenburgensis has sedes Christo 
 
 1 The building of Heriot's Hospital was commenced in 1628, but it 
 was not ready to receive scholars until 1659. 
 
 2 " In the Magistrand year, after a repetition of all gone through, the 
 De Coelo of Aristotle and the Sphere of Johannes de Sacrobosco were 
 read." — Granfs Story of the University of Edinburgh, i. p. 149. 
 
 ^ " In 1583 the curriculum was divided into four sessions or classes, 
 and the old Universify nomenclature for these classes was retained. 
 The first was styled the Bajan class, as consisting of Bajani or Fresh- 
 men ; the second Semies, or Semi-Bajans, or Semi-Bachelors ; the 
 third Bachelors, or Determinands, because at the end of that year they 
 might * determinate ' whether to finish their course with the imperfect 
 degree of Bachelor; and the fourth year's class consisted of Magistrands 
 or Students about to be made Magistrir — Grant! s University, i. p. 144. 
 
 ^ John Adamson, fifth Principal, 1628-51. 
 
EDINBURGH. 37 
 
 musisque struendas curarunt : ^ there are some 300 
 students in it, the primate is severe, he hath a little 
 dog following him, and 2 fair daughters, and an 
 unhappy lad said he would wish nothing but to 
 stick his dog and move his daughters. At the end 
 of every year they analyze their whole year s work, 
 when they go out Laureats they repeat their last 4 
 years analyses and they then be their own tutors. 
 There is a place which they call the Society of 
 Brew^ers,^ where the beer and ale is brew^ed to serve Jy^ 
 the city and they be Englishmen, they called us into 
 their butteries and made us drink gratis, there they 
 have wondrous fair brewing vessels and a fair kiln. 
 There is also the Custom house not far from St. Giles' 
 church with 3 fair arched entrances, over it is the 
 place where butter is sold. The town is governed 
 by a Provost which is [in] nature of our mayor, 
 they not having any in Scotland, by 4 bailiffs and 
 36 of his council, in nature of our aldermen, the 
 mayor's brethren and other under officers ; the bailiffs 
 arrest, and the officers may also if the baliffs bid. 
 There is an officer they call the Danegeld^ which 
 disburseth money for the town before the bailiflfs, they 
 call him lord. At 4 o'clk in the morning and at 8 at 
 night goeth a drum about the town and so in other 
 boroughs. The nobles (?) have to carry up the supper, 
 a trumpet sounding. All their gentlemen be courteous 
 and affable, but hosts* and the country clowns be 
 
 1 The stone bearing this inscription is now built into a vestibule on 
 the north side of the University quadrangle. For another reference 
 to this curious inscription see Saint Fond's Travels (circa 1784), vol. 
 ii. p. 225. 
 
 2 The site of the Brewery is still called the Society, and the Associa- 
 tion dates back to 1598. 
 
 ^ The Dean of Guild. ^ Innkeepers. 
 
38 OUR JOURNALL INTO SCOTLAND. [l629. 
 
 careless and unconscionable in their usage to 
 strangers. 
 
 [Statutes and Customary Lawes ; 
 
 1 : y* none lende out mony to intereste (w""^ is 10^ 
 in y^ 100) but y* y® Kinge have ye 20*^ penny of ye 
 interest if ye mony lended be above 27^ and a marke, 
 but if under y*, y^ Kinge hath nothinge : as of ye 
 interest of a 1000^ ye Kinge hath 5^ & if they misse 
 of payinge that 5^, law procedeth against them, but if 
 concealle it and doe not goe to ye Shiriffe clarke to 
 enter it in ye Inventory which Invent, is given up 
 into ye Exchequer, he forfeiteth ye hole interest as 
 long as it is concealed. Conquesting of land(;) pur- 
 chasing of land. In ye low lande of Scotland ye 
 tenants under there lords have but an Estate from 
 yeare to yeare & the Lord may change his t'n't if he 
 will ; and in ye high land most t'n't (pur vie)].^ 
 
 On the 10 of November being Tuesday at 12 of the 
 clock see we 3 heralds standing on the public cross ^ 
 which is in form of a turret but not garretted, and a 
 wood beam standing up in the middle, the unicorn 
 crowned on the top of it, there is a door up into it. 
 These 3 heralds one after another did proclaim an edict 
 concerning the papists of Scotland, reciting them by 
 their names, which get if possible, both before and after 
 they proclaimed 3 trumpeters sounded, and so still 
 they do if it be from the King or his council, but if 
 some common proclamation not so in state. On this 
 cross be all noble men hanged and headed, as about 9 
 
 1 This paragraph does not appear in the printed "Report," and is 
 now given verbatim from the original with the spelling unchanged 
 
 2 The old cross of Edinburgh, restored in 1885, and now standing to 
 the east of St. Giles'. 
 
KINROSS. 39 
 
 years since, 1619 or thereabouts, the Earl of Orkney^ 
 headed, his son hanged, and others, for the keeping a 
 castle against the King being treason ; on this cross 
 be citations read, denunciations, and hornings de- 
 nounced. 
 
 On the 14th of November I went to Leeth whereof 
 more before, crossed the Firth to Bruntelin, which is 7 
 miles, from thence to beside the Leard of Dowhill ^ a 
 Lincey, 8 miles, 2 miles before we came thither is the 
 river of Ore, narrow but deep and fierce we rid it the 
 height of the horse's mane and the fierceness of it turned 
 the horse off* his feet. From Dowhill to Geaney Priggle^ 
 which parteth Fife and Kinross-shire one mile, from 
 thence to Kinross at the West end of Lough Leven, a 
 borough barony, 2 miles, it is a market town, the 
 Lough Leven is 4 miles square, which is 1 6 miles about. 
 So far is the land good, but here and there many high 
 rocks and hills, in this lough is fish every day in the 
 year gotten for store, none in Britain like, and consider 
 the bigness of it, as also for fowl. The general kinds 
 of fishes be these — the pikes of which many as big 
 as a man, eels, gelletoughes, chars, perches, camdowes,^ 
 a kind of trout which have not scales, grey trouts, 
 gelletough is the he char, sysbinge the she. There 
 is a river they call the Leven running out of it 8 miles 
 into the sea, and in it is salmons. In the midst of this 
 lough is a castle of my Lord of Morton's, well fortified 
 
 ^ Patrick, 2n(i Earl of Orkney, was beheaded at the Market Cross of 
 Edinburgh, in 1614, for causing his son Robert to incite the people of 
 Orkney to rebellion, and for retaking the Castles of Kirkwall and 
 Birsay, which had formerly belonged to him. His son, Robert Stewart, 
 had been executed the previous year for the same crime. 
 
 2 The Castle of Dowhill belonged to a branch of the family of 
 Lindsay ; its ruins are still to be seen in the grounds of Blairadam. 
 
 ^ Gairney-bridge. 
 
 ^ Camdui = a species of trout ; cam, crooked, dahh, black. — Jamieson. 
 
40 OUR JOURNALL INTO SCOTLAND. [l629. 
 
 with good ordnance, the walls some 3 yards thick, a 
 ship might sail in it, there [be] great store of almost 
 all kinds of wild fowl, of wild geese there being 
 continually seen 3000 or 4000, and swans many, the 
 swans will not suffer any foreign swans to be with 
 them, in stormy weather the old swans will carry the 
 young ones on their wings off the water. King James 
 desired to dwell in it, and did with the Queen only for 
 his pleasure. The town of Kinross at the foot where 
 I lodged on Saturday at night which is also my Lord 
 of Morton's, he having another house there too. 
 They dry them in their chimneys like red herrings.^ 
 It [is] governed by one bailliff, 2 officers* One church 
 they have and a Towbeoth, it is the head town of the 
 shire, and that after which the shire is named, Robert 
 Crenyam my host of this place, one of the elders of 
 the church, told us he saw some 30 years since on a 
 ship which was come from the East Indies shells which 
 in that 3 years' space had grown to the ship have the 
 forms of fowl in them^ as in an egg.^ In Stirling, not 
 far from the sea side some 15 miles there is a gentle- 
 man's estate much harmed by a strange outbreaking^ 
 of the water on Christmas day in the afternoon, 1628, 
 in a moss some 3 miles compass cast up and laid on 
 good ground which hath spoiled the gentleman that 
 mossy ground now covering their arable so thick as to 
 the tops of the trees ; and the 3 miles compass out of 
 
 ^ Referring probably to the salmon from the Leven. 
 
 2 The well-known legend of the " Barnacle Geese/' 
 
 ^ The scene of this catastrophe appears, from Nimmo's Stirlingshire 
 (p. 451), to have been a place called Letham Moss, lying between the 
 parishes of Larbert and Airth; but according to a passage in Chambers' 
 Annals (ii. p. 35), quoted from the Privy Council Records, the " out- 
 breaking," in which the lands of Powes, Powmill, Carsebrook and Wood- 
 side were destroyed, did not occur till Dec. 26, 1629, which is of course 
 a misprint for 1628* 
 
KINROSS. 41 
 
 which it was cast suddenly up became a great lough 
 which before was a dry moss. 
 
 The Bleaching of Linen-, 
 
 A good spinster will spin 2 hankes a day of that 
 which will be 45. &d, the yard, and when the linen is 
 in varne they seeth it half a day and more in the ashes 
 of any green wood, and after that let it stand in it a 
 day or more, they wash it by trampling it in hot water 
 and then battling it in cold, some use raw daike (?) 
 small wourt, and this is before it be in cloth, and when 
 it is in cloth they take sheep dung and make it small, 
 put it into hot water and steep the cloth in the same 
 4 or 5 days, they then wash it in hot water, battles it 
 [in] cold water and after lies it by the water side by 8 
 days together casting water on it and never suffer it 
 to dry, then they steep in the sheep dung and all 
 more as before. 
 
 The Scottish Dialect, 
 
 Ingle, fire : Spence, boor in a country house : twill 
 yee, will ye, t'wadd ye, would yow. Bigge, corne, 
 bearre : a glutte of water, a draught of, &c. : excamen, 
 exchange : lumant^ chimney : through of paper,^ sheet 
 of paper : giggot of mutton and a spald of mutton, but 
 that's commonly a shoulder : an oval pannier^ a creel : 
 a boat, a stand of beer : a stand, a barrel set end ways : 
 my dowe, my wife : pantry, buttery : chap, strike : 
 aught, eight : what hours, what a clock : wappe, 
 throw; burnCj water : serviter, a table napkin : a kealle ^ 
 pie, a pie with pieces of cut mutton and prunes : 
 a chair, chare (?) : a brase^ chimney beam : chanle, a 
 
 1 Jamieson has Throch, Throuche, TMruch — a sheet of paper. 
 — Pitscottie. 
 
 2 Qy. Kail. 
 
42 OUR JOURNALL INTO SCOTLAND. [l629. 
 
 candlestick : a coase or lededgalan/ a kitte : a picle or 
 keoren^of wool is 100 stone of, &c.: agritte(?)is all above 
 a hundred stone. Their 100 stone of wool at Selkcrige 
 is 150 stone in England, their 14 is our 21. Keport 
 George Eibcall,^ burgess : silouir,* bedtester : pen- 
 dicle or paine, vallance of a bed : head cods, pillows : 
 a drink of ale or beer, some ale or beer : penyells 
 or drawers, curtains : close, courte : a manger is 
 called a tenies (?) : scriver, a writer : vote, voice, 
 opinion : drite, shite : a lough, tarn or mere : blith, 
 glad. 
 
 Measures of Liquids. 
 
 A bilder (?), a gill : a mushkin, a pint : a choppin, a 
 quart : a pint, two-quarts or a pottle : a quart, a 
 gallon or 4 quarts, this at Langholm and Selkcrigge. 
 
 Measure of Corn. 
 
 [At] Langholm their bushel is 6 pecks of Carlisle, 
 the 4th part of one of their pecks is called a cappe, the 
 price, 2>d. ; a bushel of oats, 4^. ; at Selkirk so called 
 also, and there a beat ... or a is the same with a 
 
 cappe or a heappe, the same at Selkirk, but their 
 measure is less and at Edinburgh their forlet is our 6 
 pecks or thereabouts, 4 forlets is their bow, 16 bows 
 is their chaldron, a bow of wheat is lOl. Scotch : 
 bigge, 8Z. Scotch : oats 6Z. Scotch. 
 
 A horse will bear a bow 40 miles. 
 
 Avoirdupoise — 16 pounds to the stone, and troy 
 
 ^ Coase, coage ? a wooden vessel. Leid, Brewing Leid — an imple- 
 ment used in brewing. Laid gallon — a vessel for holding liquids. 
 Jamieson, who gives Balfour's Practices as his authority. — Can Leglin 
 or Laiglen — a milk pail, so effectively made use of by Miss Elliot in the 
 Flowers of the Forest, be a diminutive of the same word? 
 
 2 Keorn — cum, a quantity. 
 
 SRiddeU? 
 
 ^ Qy- Sylour, a canopy. 
 
KINROSS TO PERTH. 43 
 
 weight 20 pounds to the stone is all through Scotland, 
 and none other. 
 
 Wixe (?) him of, drink him of : please, like : no, not : 
 wbursill, change : partrick is the best peasant fouU 
 in the Brittany (sic) : creen,^ rabbit : shanks, stockings : 
 pantol,^ pantables : mours, hills : bangistrie, wrangling : 
 collation, a drink when one goeth to bed : diswynes, 
 breakfast : smeringe, greasing : heartsome, delightsome : 
 wilecoate, waistcoat : waterpot pots, chamber-pots : 
 cracklike a hand-gun,^ a phrase applied to those who 
 be bravado talkative folks ; a health used at Langholm 
 taking one by the hand, the Lord's blessing light on 
 your hand, yourself, and all your body beside : a 
 sponnge (?), a brush : locky, an old woman : a wind, a 
 lane, or rather an alley, as Eam alley at the Inner 
 Temple at London ; a close, the same : a capp, a dish : 
 a k[nock], a clock : skeith, damage : slay and thow 
 the beer, warm : fue, lease : orelayer, a bawd. 
 
 TJieir Coins, 
 
 A Scotch penny the 12th part of an English penny : 
 a turnamoure * aliter a bodwell or a black dog, the 6th 
 part of an English penny : a placke, the 3rd part of an 
 English penny : an atchinson,^ the 3rd part of 2 pence : 
 the dollar is with them 55. wanting 2(i., it being most 
 of their money. Their 20^. is our 20d., their shilling 
 our d., our cross dagger in gold is 11 5. with them, our 
 225. piece, 225. 3d 
 
 Necke, band : hands, cujBfs : heugh, a little hill : 
 
 1 Qy. Cuning. 
 
 2 Pantours, slippers ? 
 
 ^ To crack like a pen gun is still used colloquially. 
 
 4 A Turner, from Tournois, Twopence Scots, sometimes called a bodle, 
 with the Thistle on one side and the Lion or " black-dog '^ on the other. 
 
 ^ Acheson, a small copper coin, so called after the Master of the 
 Mint to James VI. 
 
44 OUR JOURNALL INTO SCOTLAND. ' [l629. 
 
 moyne, money : dole weed, mourning apparel : sibb, 
 akin or allied : clans, kindred : beosse, a box : shuts,^ the 
 oval holes in galleries: conj u net fee, jointure : chestons, 
 chestnuts : a geene tree, black cherry tree : a powle 
 f oule, a turkey : a colen (?), a pair of snuffers : turnpike, 
 turn stayre : anent, concerning : a fell spirit, a wise 
 man : crackinge, drinking a while, or talking : ford, 
 wath : rests, rents : holders, tenants : government, etc. 
 On the 15th day of November from Kinross to 
 Millsforth,^ better than a mile on the right hand, a 
 quarter of a mile thence is my Lord Burley's house^ (a 
 very pretty little one). From thence to my lord of 
 Ballmannoe and Aughchinfleck^ 6 miles, from thence to 
 Erne brigge,^ the toll of it belongeth to Perth, St. 
 Johnstowne, St. John being patron of it. The sea 
 floweth up so high, the bridge is four bowes^ long, the 
 river runneth into Teath^ a mile and a half beneath the 
 bridge. Beneath the bridge by the river side is my 
 Lord of Munchreth, a Muncreeth, abowdrift lower east- 
 wards is Sir John Muncreth^ of East Muncreeth, now 
 deputy sheriff, whom they call my lord during the 
 time of his office (and so are the provost and bailiffs 
 of Perth, being 4, and their Council being 12, if it 
 please your wisdom. King James during his life was 
 provost of it, and my Lord of Scone^ his deputy, but 
 since his death they choose one each year). Beneath 
 
 1 Shots, a kind of window. 
 
 2 In Blaeu, Mills of Forth,—? Milnathort. 
 
 ^ Burleigh Castle, now in ruins — see M'Gibbon and Ross's Castel- 
 lated Architecture, i. 275. 
 
 ^ Sir George Auchinleck of Bahnanno, one of the Senators of the 
 College of Justice from 1626-1639. 
 
 ^ Bridge of Earn. 
 
 ^ Arches. 
 
 7 River Tay. 
 
 s Sir John Moncrieff of Moncrieff was created a baronet in 1626. 
 
 ^ Sir David Murray of Gospertie, created Earl of Scone 1605. 
 
PERTH TO LOWTHER. 45 
 
 East Muncreeth is Kellmoneth/ a seat of Sir John 
 Muncreeth's, beneath it a mile Phingaske, my Lord 
 Phingaske's a baron, his name is Dundas,^ it is at the 
 meeting of Teath and Erne, there is great store of fruit, 
 and good grounds ; a mile beneath on the river Teath 
 is West Weemes castle,^ my Lord of Weemes, it is fine 
 ground, and he hath salmon fishing. From Erne 
 brigges to St. Johnstown 2 miles. St. Johnstown is 
 walled and moated on 3 sides, on the 4th the river 
 Teath, over which there was a bridge of 1 1 bowes, and 
 1621 or thereabouts* was driven down by the water, 
 the water is very rough and dangerous, boats go 
 on it. Besides the lay government before spoken of 
 there be deacons 9, as many as craftsmen, videlicet — 
 hammermen, carpenters, scriners,^ gardiners, websters, 
 wakers,^ fleshers, backsters, millers, under which all 
 other trades are contained. Each of the deacons do 
 receive apprentices, and redress all faults in trades be- 
 longing to them, and are termed lords, they are chosen 
 every year ; every trade sitteth in the church by them- 
 selves. There be 2 churches^ in the town, the one 
 
 ^ Kinraonth. 
 
 2 John Dundas of Fingask was knighted at Holyrood by Charles I. 
 ^ in 1633. 
 
 3 Elcho Castle. 
 
 ^ The flood occurred in Oct. 1621. For full account, see Chambers^ 
 Annals, i. 525. 
 
 ^ Skinners. 
 
 ^ Walkers, or fullers. 
 
 ^ The Rev. Dr. Milne, Perth, informs me that there was only one 
 church (St. John's) in Perth in 1629. This, however, was then divided 
 into two portions — part of the nave having, about 1598, been 
 partitioned off from the main building and formed what was known 
 as the " New," or '' Little," now the West, Kirk. The rest of the 
 building — the choir, transept, and the east portion of the nave — formed 
 what was called the Kirk, or Parish Kirk of the Burgh, and the 
 steeple and bells belonged to it. This arrangement subsisted until 
 1771, when another partition was run up between the choir and the 
 transept, and the present East and Middle Churches formed. 
 
46 OUR JOURNALL INTO SCOTLAND. [l629. 
 
 called St. John's church having 7 great bells, 4 little, 
 and chimes, the finest in Scotland, the church is hung 
 with many candlesticks. Here I saw a woman sit on 
 the stool of repentance and the parson admonish her, 
 adulterers here do stand bare foot, some half an hour 
 at the church door, then at the beginning of the 
 sermon they go into the church [and] sit on the stool 
 of repentance ; this they do at St. Johnstown for the 
 space of a year, and they have a white sheet on during 
 all those ceremonies for the first adulteries committed. 
 For the 2nd [ ? ]. 
 
 Being Wednesday having crossed the Frith with 
 much danger we went to Edinburgh and the 
 weather keeping, Thursday and Friday we were 
 taking leave of our friends, Mr. Primate, Advocate 
 Fletcher, and my cousin Sir Louis Lawder, ShirifFe of 
 Lowdin, who made much of me. We were ofi*ered 
 acquaintance to my Lord Chancellor,^ my Lord of 
 Underpeter,^ and others of the nobles, but we weighed 
 more our own pains in going down the street than 
 their countenance. On Saturday to Gallowsheilds, half 
 a mile from Liberton as we went is the oil well,^ which 
 is like the fat in the beef pot, it is a present cure for 
 scalded heads. A mile beyond Borthwick is a town 
 called Middleton. At Gallowsheilds we stayed all 
 night and Sunday, and in the morning went away by 
 3 of the clock to Mr. Eobert Pringle's at Baytingbush,^ 
 from thence the next morning to Barronet Graham's 
 at the Folde 2 miles whence back again we went after 
 
 1 Sir George Hay of Nethercliff, afterwards Earl of Kimioul. 
 
 2 Probably Lord Iniierpeffer, Sir Andrew Fletcher, a Lord of 
 Session from 1623, grandfather of the celebrated Andrew Fletcher 
 of Salton. 
 
 3 Balm Well of St. Katherine de Sienna. 
 * In Blaeu, Batingbuss. 
 
PERTH TO LOWTHER. 47 
 
 supper to Mr. Curwen parson of Artliuret, tlience the 
 next day at noon to Bleckhell where we dined whence 
 home the next night. 
 
48 
 
 OUR JOURNALL INTO SCOTLAND. 
 
 [1629. 
 
 
 [ITINERAEY. 
 
 Thursday, 
 
 ISTovember 5, 1629. 
 
 From Lowther to Carlisle. 
 
 Friday, 
 
 II 6m, 
 
 From Carlisle to Langholm. 
 
 Saturday, 
 
 7 t. . 
 
 From Langholm by the Ewes 
 Water and the Teviot Eiver 
 to Ashkirk and Selkirk. 
 
 Sunday, 
 
 fi 8m. 
 
 From Selkirk to Galashiels. 
 
 Monday, 
 
 M 9 M , 
 
 From Galashiels by the Gala 
 Water to Edinburgh. 
 
 Tuesday, 
 
 10 M . 
 
 Edinburgh. 
 
 Wednesday, 
 
 11 M . 
 
 Edinburgh. 
 
 Thursday, 
 
 12 M . 
 
 Edinburgh. 
 
 Friday, 
 
 M 13 M 
 
 Edinburgh. 
 
 Saturday, 
 
 14 n . 
 
 From Edinburgh via Burnt- 
 island to Kinross. 
 
 Sunday, 
 
 15 M . 
 
 From Kinross to Perth. 
 
 Monday, 
 
 If 16 M 
 
 
 Tuesday, 
 
 17 M . 
 
 
 Wednesday, 
 
 M 18 It 
 
 Crossed the Forth to Edin- 
 burgh. 
 
 Thursday, 
 
 II 19 II . 
 
 Edinburgh. 
 
 Friday, 
 
 20 II . 
 
 Edinburgh. 
 
 Saturday, 
 
 21 II . 
 
 From Edinburgh to Galashiels. 
 
 Sunday, 
 
 22 M . 
 
 Galashiels. 
 
 Monday, 
 
 M 23 M . 
 
 From Galashiels to Bayting- 
 bush. 
 
 Tuesday, 
 
 24 II . 
 
 From Baytingbush to Arthur et. 
 
 Wednesday, 
 
 25 M . 
 
 From Arthuret to Bleckhell. 
 
 Thursday, 
 
 II 26 II . 
 
 From Bleckhell to Lowther. 
 
 Ed.] 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 The Tolbuiths of Edinburgh. 
 
 Mr Lowther's description and plan of the Courts of Law in 
 Edinburgh raises the question where these Courts were held at 
 the date of his visit. 
 
 It is remarkable that we cannot now fix with certainty the place 
 where some of the more interesting events of our history were 
 enacted during a period of seventy years from 1562. Many of 
 them are described as having taken place in the Tolbuith of 
 Edinburgh ; but as there were three Tolbuiths in the city during 
 that time— (1) the Old Tolbuith (Heart of Midlothian), at the 
 north-west end of St Giles' Church ; (2) the New Tolbuith in the 
 south-west end of the nave of St Giles' Church ; and (3) the 
 building outside the Church at its south-west end — it is difficult to 
 identify the particular edifice meant. The first of these — the Old 
 Tolbuith — was used only as a prison from 1563, and requires no 
 further notice. The object of this enquiry is to show from con- 
 temporary historical and official documents the purposes for which 
 the two others were used, and how they were designated by the 
 authorities. 
 
 In order to understand more clearly the question at issue it will 
 be convenient to go back to the origin of the proposal to erect a 
 New Tolbuith. 
 
 Before Queen Mary's return in 1561, the authorities and citizens 
 of Edinburgh had become alive to the necessity of providing more 
 extensive and suitable accommodation not only for the Law Courts, 
 but also for the proper conduct of municipal affairs. In June 
 1560, the Provost, Bailies, &c., considering "the great inquietation 
 that they have had in past times within the Tolbuith of this 
 burgh for lack of room to minister justice, and to do their other 
 
 D 
 
50 APPENDIX. 
 
 affairs at all such times when the session [Court of Session] did 
 sit, or when any courts and convocations were in the same, and 
 also considering the scant of house and inconvenience of their clerk's 
 chamber," and the expediency of having more commodious places 
 and rooms " within their Kirk as may be a fair Tolbuith for 
 serving the town in their affairs, and of all other necessary rooms 
 upon the west part of the said Kirk," &c. ; therefore they 
 "ordained that James Barron, Dean of Guild, should, with all 
 diligence, repair and big up a stane wall, &c., beginning at the 
 south Kirk door called the Kirk-yard door, and straight north 
 to the north Kirk door at the stinking-style, for the said Tolbuith." 
 On 6th February 1561, Queen Mary issued her letter for the de- 
 molition of the Old Tolbuith (which was not taken down, however, 
 until 1817); and in the meantime the Town Council were ordered 
 to " provide a sufficient house and rooms for the Lords of Session, 
 Justice, and Sheriff, ministering justice to the lieges of the realm." 
 On 2 9 til February 1561-2 the Council unanimously resolved to 
 make the alterations proposed by the Queen, and the master of 
 works was instructed to take down part of the Old Tolbuith, and 
 " that the other tolbuith be made in the west end of the Kirk for 
 the Lords of Session." 
 
 Up to this time there does not appear to have been any proposal 
 to erect an additional building outside the church for tolbuith 
 purposes ; but a new tolbooth outside and to the south-west of the 
 Church seems to have been built between 1563-5 ; and the name 
 by which it was best known was the Counsal-house high and 
 laich (low), while the term used to designate the Tolbuith in the 
 Church was the Over or Upper Tolbuith. 
 
 The question of w^here the Lords sat for the administration of 
 Justice, and w^here the Scottish Parliament met for about seventy 
 years prior to 1640, depends upon the exact meaning of the above 
 terms, and more especially upon the meaning of the term " Upper " 
 and "Over Tolbuith." The Scotch Acts of Parliament do not 
 afford much information on this point, as the notification of where 
 the Parliament met usually runs apud Edinburgh ; but two of the 
 notices may be quoted. In 1617, when James YI. returned to 
 Edinburgh, he appears to have resumed his old pastime of sitting 
 with the Lords of Session and Parliament in the Tolbuith, and in 
 the official notification (Acts of the Scottish Parliament, vol. iv. 
 p. 527) we have this statement of where the Parliament sat, — 
 "The Kingis Majestic and the foirsaids lordis of Articles, with 
 
APPENDIX. 51 
 
 the saidis officeris of Estate, satt daylie and ilk day within the 
 Over Tolbuith of Edinburgh, quhair the lordis sittis for administra- 
 tion of Justice, advysand upon the articles quilk were presented 
 to Parliament/' <fec. Again, on 4th August 1621, — "The Lord 
 CoMissiONAR and the foirsaidis lordis of Articles, with the saidis 
 officeris of Estait, satt daylie and ilk day within the Over Tol- 
 buith of Edinburgh, quhair the lordis sittis for administration of 
 Justice, advysand upon the Articles quhilkis were presented to 
 Parliament," &c. The question is, to what building does the term 
 Over Tolbuith apply 1 
 
 While the term New Tolbuith was used at first to designate the 
 building outside the Church, it appears, from the many references 
 made to it in various official documents, that it was afterwards 
 popularly known as the " town's Council House " — High and Low 
 — and that it continued to be known by that name down to the time 
 when it was demolished at the beginning of this century. This 
 is obvious from more than one statement made by the Town 
 Council itself as to the arrangements for conducting their pro- 
 ceedings. On February 5th, 1565, an order was given that, "in 
 all time coming, within the Counsall-house for the transacting of 
 business," they were to observe a particular arrangement ; and in 
 October of the same year, an Act passed respecting the cere- 
 monial of holding a (town) Council ordains that " the uter north 
 door, foment the tour of the * Auld Tolbuith,' shall be takkin and 
 haldin fast induring the time of the Council." October 1565 : 
 This determines where the Counsal-house was situated; it was 
 the !N'ew Tolbuith outside the Church. Calderwood, in his notices 
 of the meetings of the General Assembly of the Church of 
 Scotland, mentions that they were held sometimes in the Counsal- 
 house, sometimes in the JN'eather Counsal-house, and frequently in 
 the Upper Tolbuith, and in the leather Tolbuith. It is certain, 
 therefore, that during these seventy years these names had a specific 
 meaning, and applied to different places. This is proved by 
 various references in the published extracts from the Town Council 
 Records. In September 1578 the treasurer was ordained to wash 
 with chalk the Ovir and Xether Tolbuiths and the laigh Council- 
 house. 
 
 In January 1563 a bar was ordered to be made for the Court 
 of Session in the Over l!^ew Tolbuith ; and in February new seats 
 w^ere built there for the Lords. 
 
 In 1573 "the bailies and Council ordains the treasurer to pre- 
 
52 APPENDIX. 
 
 pare the ovir house of the turnpike above the entry of the Lords' 
 Council-house for the Lords' interpreters of the laws." 
 
 In January 1580 the Treasurer, Andrew Stevenson, was instructed 
 by the Town Council, and with the advice of the President and 
 other Lords of Session, to make a round table in the Lords' Counsal- 
 house, &c. 
 
 On 13th May 1586 the Treasurer was to stuff and mend the 
 cushions of the Lords' Inner Counsal-house, and to purchase for the 
 said house sufficient board cloths. 
 
 May 18, 1586, Andrew Slater, one of the Bailies, was to agree 
 with David Workman to paint the walls of the Lords' Inner Counsel- 
 house for the sum of 20 merks. 
 
 These extracts show that the Lords had a distinct portion of the 
 Tolbuith set apart for their accommodation, and that they had 
 both an inner and an over Tolbuith. 
 
 We have further the statements of Spottiswood in his History of 
 Scotland, Birrel's Diary, Calderwood's History, and the account 
 by the King himself of the tumult that took place on the 
 17th December 1596, as given in his Royal Proclamation made 
 the day after, and published at the Market Cross of Edinburgh 
 after he had left the city for Linlithgow. "By some occasion 
 the King was that day come to the session, and being in the 
 upper house," ^ the proclamation says, "the King, considering 
 the late treasonable uproar moved by certain factious persons of 
 •the ministry of Edinburgh, who did convene a number of noble- 
 men, barons, and others in the Little Church, and sent some of 
 their number to his Majesty, being then in the upper house of 
 session." This disturbance was followed by the passing of an Act 
 of Parliament, January 1597, for dispersing the city clergy from 
 their manses in the Kirkyard close,^ " and that the laich tolbuith 
 ewest (bewest) thereto, now callit the townis Counsalhous, salbe 
 apointit and keipit for the chekker in all times hereafter." Birrel 
 in his Diary ^ says : " There was an honest man, who was deakon of 
 the deakons, named John Watt, Smith. This John Watt raised 
 the whole crafts in arms, and came to the Tolbuith, where the 
 entry is, to the checkerhous, and there cried for a sight of his 
 Majesty, or else he would ding up the door with fore-hammers. 
 The King looked out the window and spoke to the crowd." It 
 
 ^ Spottiswood, vol. iii. p. 28. 
 
 2 Acts of the Scottish Parliament, vol. iv. p. 107. 
 
 ^ Birrel's Diary, p. 39. 
 
APPENDIX. 53 
 
 is clear from these statements that the King was sitting with the 
 Court in the upper or over house of the Tolbuith in the west end 
 of the Kirk, and that when the tumult arose he retired to the 
 upper flat of the Town's Counsal-house at the west end of the 
 kirk, and that he was there when deacon Watt came with the 
 craftsmen to his rescue. 
 
 The facts mentioned justify the conclusion that during the seventy 
 years in question the seat of justice in Edinburgh was the Tolbooth, 
 in the nave of St Giles', notwithstanding the statement of Maitland, 
 in his History of Edinburgh, that the New Tolbooth outside the 
 Church was erected for the use of the Court of Session. The only 
 objection that can be made against this conclusion is the statement 
 in Birrel's Diary, Nov. 1, 1598, p. 48, that the Tolbuith in the Kirk 
 had undergone some alterations so as to be used as a Church ; but 
 within five years the Tolbuith was restored to its former condition ; 
 and during these years some minor changes were made for the accom- 
 modation of the Courts. The Laich (Low) Tolbuith was fitted up 
 as the Outer House for the Lords of Session by taking the lofting 
 from the Over or Upper Tolbuith. " This alteration was done 
 under special warrant of His Majesty, and the Lords of Session 
 themselves declaring their satisfaction and contentment to use the 
 Laich Tolbuith for the Outer House till time and occasion may 
 arrive that ane Tolbuith be biggit." (Books of Sederunt, Part ii. 
 fol. 262.) It is obvious that this was a mere temporary arrangement 
 for the Outer House, and accordingly the Court continued to 
 occupy the Tolbuith in the Kirk, though it was used on Sundays 
 as a place of worship. 
 
 Pitcairn in his Criminal Trials gives several cases that were 
 disposed of in the Over Tolbuith during those five years, one of 
 which clearly shows that the Tolbuith in the Kirk was still used 
 as the Seat of Justice while it was used for preaching, and that in 
 June 1601 — the date of the trial — the Court-house arrangements 
 were exactly the same as in 1629, when Lowther made his diagram. 
 In this trial the libel narrates that " the accused, being within the 
 Tolbuith of the burgh of Edinburgh, in the back house thereof, 
 which is between the Outer Tolbuith and the Inner Tolbuith, His 
 Majesty being for the time, in proper person, sitting in the Inner 
 house with the Lords of his Council and Session for administration 
 of Justice, did commit an assault," ko,} This shows that the Court 
 
 ^ Pitcaini's Criminal Trials, vol. ii. p. 358. 
 
54 APPENDIX. 
 
 of Session did not give up using the Over Tolbuith in the nave of 
 St Giles' as the seat of Justice. 
 
 The account given by Father Alexander Baillie of the secular 
 uses to which the Church of St Giles was put, as quoted by Dr 
 Laing in his Charters of St Giles\ is also important, for he says, 
 that " the west end of the Church is divided in a high house for 
 the CoUedge of Justice, called the Session or Senate-house, and a low 
 house called the Low Tolbooth, where the Baillies of the Toune use 
 to sit and judge common actions and pleas in the one end thereof, 
 and a number of harlots and scolds for flyting and whoredom 
 inclosed in the other." This is confirmed by the statement of 
 Eow in his History of the Church of Scotland, p. 356 : — "In the 
 moneth of August this year [1632], the Toune of Edinburgh being 
 earnestlie desyred by their ministers to provyde another house for 
 a Parliament House, and where actions of law may be impleaded, 
 than a part of the Kirk where God's word should be preached, 
 and whilk should be an house of prayer, began and founded a 
 fair and great house for the uses aforesaid." Both of these state- 
 ments are confirmed by Charles the First's Proclamation for the 
 taking down of the west and east walls within the Kirk, dated 
 11th October 1633, so that Lowther's diagram cannot apply to 
 what was called the New Tolbuith outside of St Giles' Kirk. 
 Lowther's plan is valuable, inasmuch as there are no plans in 
 existence of this period to show the arrangements of the Courts, 
 though it is unfortunate that there is no scale upon it by which 
 the extent and size of the apartments can be determined. 
 
 An old plan made in 1790 with reference to the proposed build- 
 ing of the Signet Library, shows very distinctly the relative position 
 of St Giles' Kirk and the Tolbuith erected in 1563-4. The ground 
 plan of the Tolbuith measures, in its greatest breadth from east 
 to west about 35 feet, and its greatest length from north to south 
 45 feet, and that space was occupied by the Town Council and 
 the Sheriff Court-house at that time. 
 
 Keeping in view the configuration of the nave of the Church, as 
 shown on the plans of the Church given by Dr Laing in his 
 Charters of St Giles' and some other well ascertained facts, 
 Lowther's diagram can be made to fit into the south-west corner of 
 the Church with considerable exactness. These plans show the 
 elevation of the south-west end of the Church, along with two 
 tall pointed gothic windows on the south front and three on the 
 west gable. In 1564 the south kirk-door entering from the church- 
 
APPENDIX. 55 
 
 yard was ordered to be built up, and a wall built to screen 
 an unseemly nuisance close by that door, the reason given being 
 that the nuisance in question was committed " in sight of the Lords 
 of Session." 1 The Lords of Session could only witness it through 
 one or other of the two windows on the south of the Church. 
 There was only an oriel window, high up in that bay of the Church 
 occupied by the southern porch, the door of which was ordered to be 
 built up. If the diagram of Lowther is placed lengthways across the 
 nave of the Church, with the stair end towards the north, it fits into 
 the two westmost bays of the space which latterly formed the Old 
 Tolbuith Church. The inner Court where Lowther witnessed the 
 fifteen Lords of Session sitting in their robes would be in the second 
 bay from the west end of the Church ; the bay representing the 
 southern porch aisle could not have formed part of the area of the 
 Courts — it was the charter-house of the Town Council, and had no 
 windows to give light to the Courts. In the diagram no pillars are 
 shown, but, according to this fitting in of the diagram, " the wall 
 crossing over-thwarte " (transverse) would be in line with one of the 
 pillars, and the wainscot partition, marking the second division of the 
 area of the Courts, would be in line with the only other pillar embraced 
 in the area, while the extreme divisions on the north would be the 
 centre aisle, a part of the nave of the Church. The stair up to the 
 Courts, cutting into the floor space of the area, was convenient to the 
 principal entrance by the ^N'orman porch on the north side of the 
 Church, which then formed probably the only entrance to it. 
 
 In the Parliament held in the Tolbuith in 1594, the King 
 and his courtiers entered by the stinking-style, which was situated 
 on the north side of the Church, and opposite the old IS'orman 
 arch which then formed the entrance to the nave. 
 
 In the Counsal-house, situated on the outside of the Church, the 
 stair up to the second flat of the high counsal-house was a turnpike, 
 as shown on the plan of 1790 already referred to, and this shows 
 that Lowther's diagram could not apply to the outside Counsal- 
 house. Xicol, in his Diary in 1655, about fifteen years after 
 the completion of the Parliament House, has a notice of 
 the then Tolbuith Church which confirms the explanation 
 now made. He says "the Kirk called the Tolbuith Kirk, 
 which was so called because it was lately the part and place where 
 the Criminal Court did sit, and where the gallows and the may den 
 did ly of old ; likewise, this Kirk altered and changed, and of this 
 1 Extracts, Council Record, vol. iii. p. 189. 
 
56 APPENDIX. 
 
 one Kirk they did make two." Part of the area of the Courts 
 was formed into the Tolbuith Kirk, and the north portion of 
 it, the central aisle of the nave, formed part of Hadow's Hole Kirk. 
 If this is the correct explanation of Lowther's diagram, the 
 extent of the area occupied by the Law Courts, constituting the 
 Tolbuith within St Giles' Church, can be easily ascertained, as the 
 scale attached to the plans given by Dr Laing enables the measure- 
 ment to be made with considerable exactness. The w^hole area 
 would be 40 feet by about 65 ; and the inner court, where the 
 lords sat when Lowther wrote his narrative, would form a chamber 
 of 21 feet by 21 feet — not by any means a small Court-room. The 
 size of the other compartments can be easily made out. 
 
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