s? V^i^'.- ^11^? ,^:*CCo:.:::. :^5:^ .■t^f^r.r^^ Digitized by tine Internet Arciiive in 2008 witii funding from IVIicrosoft Corporation littp://www.arcliive.org/details/boatcaravanfamilOOtiltricli THE BOAT AND THE CARAVAN. THE BOAT AND THE CARAVAN ^ dfaiitrty Cour THROUGH EGYPT AND SYRIA. When a traveller returneth home, let him not leave the countries where he has travelled altogether behind him."— Lord Bacov. Ci. SECOND EDITION. LONDON: DAVID BOGUE, 86, FLEET STREET, LATE TILT AND BOGUE. MDCCCXLIX. ^ *^ 1 \f DS 101 PREFACE. So many books of travels in Egypt and Syria have already been published, that an addition to their number may perhaps be deemed unnecessary. The author is not aware, however, that any have been specially intended for young persons; and he has thought that a plain and unpretending account of a recent tour through these most interesting countries would not be unacceptable, and might perhaps draw their attention to works of more importance and better worthy of their perusal. It is but right, perhaps, to say, that the author was accompanied only by his wife, his child, who was about the age of the young persons here introduced, and a female servant. He has ventured to add one more to the party, in order to give a little additional variety to the narrative. He has endeavoured to adhere scrupulously to the truth, and has described nothing that did not really come under his own notice. He regrets, however, that his continued absence from his own country has prevented a reference to many of the books, including his journal, which were sent to England on leaving the East, as in some instances he would have been glad to have assisted his memory. R7*^i -f c:qo VI PREFACE. Some writer observes, that the best guide-book to the Holy Land is the Bible, and the best com- mentary on the Bible is the Holy Land. There is much truth in this remark ; but as most persons are prevented, by circumstances, from taking so long a journey, they may gain some assistance in the better understanding of the Scriptures by the narratives of those who have had the opportunity of going over the sacred ground. If the perusal of this volume induce its reader to take up his Bible with a more lively interest, one great object in its publication will be gained. The Illustrations by which the volume is en- riched, have been engraved from drawings made by an artist who travelled over the ground almost simultaneously with the author, and who kindly furnished them for the purpose. The admirable picture by the celebrated painter, Horace Vernet, " Crossing the Desert," a copy of which forms the frontispiece, conveys a most lively and faithful representation of the mode in which the camels travel, and the manner in which they are ridden. The trappings of the animals, and the costume of the camel drivers, and native servants, are also remarkably correct. It only remains for the author to say that any profit resulting from the sale of this work will be devoted to Missionary objects. Turin, October, 184G. PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. The author has been much gratified hy the rapid sale of a very large impression of this work, and now submits a new edition to the public. No alteration has been made, beyond that correction of the press, which his previous absence from Eng- land prevented him from undertaking. While he acknowledges with gratitude the many favourable reviews of his book that have appeared in various periodicals, he would say a word or two in defence of that " Spirit of Scepticism" he has been, in more than one instance, charged with displaying in his notice of various spots in the Holy Land. While he has neither expressed, nor felt, a doubt of any plain statement contained in the Bible, he has considered himself at perfect liberty to exercise his own judgment on points in which no religious truth is concerned, and where the only evidence in their favour is gathered from the traditions of the Greek and Roman churches. In some instances, these tradi- tions are plainly in opposition to Scripture. Such, for example, as — that part of Pilate's house still exists at Jerusalem, although our Saviour foretold that not vni PREFACE. one stone of the city should be left above another ; — that the church which crowns the summit of the Mount of Olives covers the spot from which our Saviour ascended, although the Evangelist Luke ex- pressly says that it was at Bethany that he parted with his disciples and was carried up to Heaven ; and — that the Mount of Precipitation is a high pro- montory two miles distant from Nazareth, although we read that it was from the "brow of a hill on which the city was built" that the enraged Nazarenes sought to cast down their Lord. In many respects it would have been more agree- able to have gone over the ground with unques- tioning credulity ; but the author thinks that belief of what is true, is strengthened and confirmed, by a careful rejection of all that is false. He has had much pleasure in dividing the profits arising from the publication of this little volume, in equal proportions, between the Church Missionary Society, the London Missionary Society, the Mora- vian Mission, and the London City Mission. September 10, 1848. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. lutrodiiction — A friend's advice — Preparation for departure — Arrival in Paris— A sojourn at Naples — An unexpected rencontre — Thoughts of the East — Pleasant anticipations — A father's counsel p. 1 CHAPTER II. Voyage from Naples — Messina — Catania — Syracuse — Ear of Diony- sius — Ancient quarry — Assemblage of the dead — Malta — The Faldetta — Cathedral — English church — Hurried departure — The " Oriental" steamer — Voyage to Alexandria — The PJiaros — Arab boatmen — Scramble for the Franks — First donkey ride — Alexandria — The Bazaars — Bargaining— Women of Alexandria — Wretched infants— The Evil Eye— The Taskmaster— Loading the Camel p. 10 CHAPTER III. Emily's letter — Pompey's Pillar — The Pasha's palace — English church — Wedding of the Pasha's daughter — Cleopatra's Needle — Alexandrian village — Mirage of the Desert — Mahoumied canal — The Nile — Arrival at Boulak — Search for a boat — The Union Jack — Hassenein Effendi — Contract with the Eeis— Egyp- tian Magician — Maltese prejudice — Change of Dragoman — Embarkation — " The Home" — Getting to riglits — Daireh intro- duced — Hadjee JIustapha — Arab costume — The Reis and his crew — Departure from Cairo — The first dinner — A few words about Egypt p. 28 CHAPTER IV. Beautiful weather — Slow progress — Copt charms — Islands on the Nile — Rafts of crockery — The palm tree — The Goulah— A chase — Run aground — Murder of Sheikh Salah — Backsheesh — Swim- ming Monks — Herd of buffaloes — Towing the boat — A hard pull — Perils of gluttony — The robber Sauton — Yisit to the sugar mill — Invitation to dinner — Crocodiles in the Nile — A rare shot — The faithful friend — Mahomedan devotion — Katterhairack Nubian sailors — A hot dose — Dining out — The Shadoof^Birds of Egypt — Fish in the Nile — Arab repast — Delay for bread — A town washed away — Plenty of dust — The dead donkey — Savage justice — The lost sailor — The Pasha at Esneh . p. 57 CONTENTS. CHAPTER V. Arrival at Assouan— Quiet greetings— Toyless children— Tower of Syene — Excursion toPhilae — Unavailing precaution— Temples of Philsfi- The first cataract — Ancient quarries— Cargo of slaves — Mustapha's disappointment— Eastern slavery— No fun in Egypt — Writing home— Visit to a Cadi— The visit returned — Walk through Assouan P- 101 CHAPTER VI. Fresh passengers — Temples of Ombos — Rencontre with a Bedouin — Antiquity of Egypt — Quarries of Hadjar Silsilis— A Chameleon caught — Temple of Edfou — Troublesome company — Plagues of Egypt — Dongolese priests — Cure for the head-ach — City of Elythias — Tombs of Elkob — Esneh and its Temple — Ancient astronomy — Dancing girls — Coin of Egypt — Arnaout soldiers — Cotton factory — Temple of Erment — Visit to a prison — Attack of dogs p. 123 CHAPTER VII. Thebes — Obelisk of Luxor — A scramble for paras — Temple of Luxor — Karnac — Chambers of Imagery — Hall of Pillars — Ravages of the Persians — Gigantic statue — Statues of Memnon — Dealers in antiquities — Medinet Abou — Tombs of the Queens — Mummy Caves — Search for a Mummy — Valley of Tombs — Belzoni's Sarcophagus — Temple of Gournou — Departure from Thebes — Temple of Denderah — Keneh— Palace of Memnon — Catacombs of Siout p. 143 CHAPTER VIII. Crocodile Mummy-pits — Hidden Treasure — Pilgrims from Mecca — Quarries of IMessara — Pyramids of Sakkara — Mummy Cattle — Catacombs of Birds — Boat-load of Camels — Pyramids of Ghizeh — Ascent of the Pyramid — View from the Pyramid — Interior of the Pyramid— Bedouin Dance — The Sphinx — End of the Voyage — Adieu to the Nile p. 173 CHAPTER IX. Return to Cairo — Mosques — Dongolese biography — Public foun- tains — Citadel of Cairo — The Pasha's Mosque — Butchery of the Mamelukes — Visit to the Mint— Saladin's Well — Tomb of the Pasha — Disgusting Scene — Shoobra garden — Rhoda island — Turkish bath — Visit to a Hareem — Eastern women — Marriage processions — Exposure of convicts— Wonderful sword — Mis- sionary schools — The Pasha's daughter p. 196 CONTENTS. XI CHAPTER X. Preparing for the Desert — Bargain with the Bedouin — The Musetta — Departure for Syria — Mounting the camel — The Caravan — Heliopolis — The Encampment — Bishai, the Copt — Thieves in the night — Bedouin tents — Wandering derwish — The lost son — Walk round the camp — Santon's garden — Bedouin tribute — The Camel — Hills of sand— Illness of Mrs. Dalton — Arrival of a caravan — Construction of a litter — Fatigue of the Arabs — Desert tortoises — Escape from a snake — Bishai's stupidity — Salt lakes p. 217 CHAPTER XI. El-Arish — Imposition of the camel-drivers — Dispute with the Be- douins—Claim of tribute— Symptoms of war— General fight- Quarantine at Gaza — View of Gaza — Armed Syrians — Female ornaments — Which is the Sultan ?—Ramlah— English Hadjees — Castle of Abougosh — Arrival at Jerusalem — Entry into the city p. 249 CHAPTER XII. Jerusalem— Church of the Holy Sepulchre— Siege of Jerusalem— The credulous Empress— Fortunate Discoveries— IMount Calvary The Crusades— The Greeks and the Latins— The Sepulchre — Latin and Greek Churches— Chapel over Calvary— Disgraceful fight— Armenian church— English cathedral . . . . p. 265 CHAPTER XIII. Departure for Jericho— Caravan of pilgrims — Tomb of Moses — Long procession— View from the hills — Pilgrim encampment— Foun- tain of Elisha — An Englishman in danger — The Healed Waters —Night in the Plains— Progress to the Jordan— Bathing of the Pilgrims — Visit to the Dead Sea — A narrow escape— 'l"he Dead Sea — Ride to Mar Saba — Convent of Mar Saba — Road to Bethlehem — Bethlehem — Rachel's tomb — An evening walk ip. -ISO CHAPTER XIV. Tomb of David — A^alley of Hinnom — Pool of Siloam— Valley of Jehoshaphat — Mount Moriah — Ancient foundations — ilount of Olives — Garden of Gethsemane— Tomb of tlie Virgin— 3Iosque of Omar — Greek ceremonies — Place of Wailing — The Copt's proposal — Bethany— the Holy Fire— Violent excitement — A mock miracle— Credulity of the pilgrims — Tombs of the kings- Reminiscences — The Latin convent P- 305 XU CONTENTS. CHAPTER XV. Last View of Jerusalem — An accident — Tlie runaway recovered — Ramlah— Want of a leader— Jacob's Well - Tomb of Joseph— Shechem — Samaritans — Company of lepers — Dispute with the muleteers — Church of St. John Baptist — Herod's palace — Ful- filment of Prophecy — Eastern negligence — A Swiss botanist — The Governor's guard — Jezreel — Mount Tabor — Sketch of a traveller — Assault on Suez — An army of fleas — The loiterer robbed p. 327 CHAPTER XA'I. Nazareth — Monkish inventions — The Virgin's house — A miraculous column — The Apostles' table — Reasonable doubts — The test of Scripture — Female curiosity — Cana in Galilee — Sermon on the Mount — Effects of an earthquake — German Jews — Sale of the horse — A field of Scorpions — Acre — Khan-El-Naturah— Eas-El- Ain — Tyre — Prophecy of Ezekiel — Alexander's mole — Pool of tortoises — Sidon — Syrian fisherman — Inroads of the Desert — Environs of Beyroot — News from home p. 352 CHAPTER XVII. Beyroot — A disappointment — The tents in danger — Visit to a native — Khamseen wind — Copt liberality — Excursion to Damascus — Khan-El-Hussein — The Maronites — Story of Hendye — Tomb of Noah — The Druses — Singular head dress — The Metualis — Ren- contre with the slaves — A dangerous fall — Plain of the Beekah — A mUicary fool — 31aguificent view — An angry gardener — Bigotry of the Damascenes — Camp in the garden . . p. 381 CHAPTER XVIII. Walk through Damascus — A street of shoes — Jews' quarter — Visit to a Jew — War against the Bedouins — The Haouran — Mission- aries at Damascus — Damascus' mansions — Public baths — Barbers' shops— Derwishes and Santons — The horses seized — Pass of Anti-Lebanon — Abana and Pharpar — Wisdom of Provi- dence p. 406 CHAPTER XIX. Baalbec — Cedars of Lebanon — Invasion of the Natives — Enormous stones — Roman remains — Saracenic additions — Temple of the Sun — Destructive earthquake — Syrian nose jewels — Ruined mosque — Quartering on a bishop — Last night in the tent — Story of Bushnell — American perseverance — Adieu to the East — Quarantine performed— Anniversary of the Plague— The priest and the angel — Conclusion p. 422 LIST OF PLATES. Caravan Crossing the Desert . . . Frontispiece. Luxor p- 146 Karnac 153 The Pyramids 185 Jerusalem 265 Nazareth 352 Mount Lebanon from Betroot 381 THE BOAT AND THE CARAVAN. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION A FRIEND's ADVICE PREPARATION FOR DEPARTURE ARRIVAL IN PARIS SOJOURN AT NAPLES UNEXPECTED RENCONTRE THOUGHTS OF THE EAST PLEASANT ANTICIPATIONS A FATHER'S COUNSEL. After several years of unusually close attention to mercantile pursuits, Mr. Dalton found himself in a position to retire into private life. His health, which had never been strong, had gradually given way under the confinement to the close air and anxious engage- ments of a London life, and he, as well as his afiec- tionate wife, felt truly gTateful to that kind Providence which had put them in possession of a fortune sufficient for their moderate wants. They had only two children, Charles and Emily; the former fifteen years old, and the latter fourteen, at the time when our narrative commences. Charles had just left an excellent school near his parents' house, and was about to enter into the world. His father had expected, and indeed mshed, that his son should succeed him, and intended B 2 INTKODUCTION. to have continued in business till Charles could have taken his place. The boy, however, expressed so strong a desire to be a surgeon, that it was at last decided that he should follow the bent of his inclina- tions. Mr. Dalton therefore had no hesitation in retiring on his account; and when, after a long con- versation with Dr. Allnutt, his physician, an old and warm-hearted friend of the family, he learned that it was probable that his health would entirely break down if much longer tried, he acted with his usual decision, and in less than a year had wound up his affairs, and freed himself from all his previous engage- ments. The first few months of Mr. Dalton's life of leisure were very agreeably spent. It was a pleasant thing to find himself at liberty to do as he pleased. He had not quitted the modest but pretty country house in which he had for some years resided. The garden now claimed some of his attention, and he began to take a share in its cultivation. He had also time to enjoy more of the pleasures of social life, and to indulge himself freely in that love for books which the cares and anxieties of the world had interrupted, but not destroyed; but he had been too long accus- tomed to a life of great activity to be able to shake off very easily the desire for excitement it had nourished, and before long he began to feel the need of some more stirring engagements than those which now filled up his day. He struggled against such impres- sions for some time, but not so successfully as to hide all that was passing in his mind from his watchful wife. She induced her husband again to consult their old friend the Doctor, and with some reluctance, he A FRIEND S ADVICE. 3 candidly told him all he felt. A smile now and then passed over Dr. AUnutt's face, as he listened to the statement. When Mr. Dalton had finished, he said, " You need not have unburdened yourself with so much hesitation, as you have not told me a single thing that I did not know before. I am there- fore prepared," he added, "to prescribe for you at once, and I think you will not find my remedies very disagreeable." Mr. and Mrs. Dalton were amused by their friend's penetration, and eagerly inquired what course he had to recommend. " It is soon told," said the Doctor; "travel for a while. The facilities for moving about are now very great, and I am sure that in visiting some of the most interesting parts of the Continent, you, my friend, will find all the amuse- ment and gentle excitement best fitted for you; while your good wife mil, unless I am very greatly mistaken, be very much improved in her health by the change of air. I shall be sorry to part with you, but I will not be selfish. You must spend a twelvemonth abroad, and I hope then to see you return thoroughly weaned from business, and my kind friend here very much stronger and better than she is at present. But I have not done. You will, I am sure, pardon me for seizing this opportunity of referring to the future. Have you not lately been living too much for your- self ? No one can expect any great amount of happi- ness while that is the case. Will it not be well to prepare yourself for emplojning the life of leisure God has now bestowed on you, in His service, and for the good of your fellow creatures? It was hardly to be expected that you could turn at once from the pursuit of wealth to employments so very different, and yet so B 2 4 PKEPARATION FOR DEPARTURE. infinitely more worthy the attention of an immortal being. It is one of the faults of the present state of things in our country, that the spirit of competition is so great, that men are, or think they are, obliged to devote themselves entirely to their profession or business. This is a sad mistake, I am sure; but sup- posing such a necessity existed for the mass of our countrymen, you cannot avail yourself of that plea for neglecting higher duties. And now, for the present, I must say farewell, and leave you to think over what I have proposed, while I ask you to pardon the frank- ness of an old and sincere friend." Mr. and Mrs. Dalton did think of their judicious adviser's recommendation, and were not slow in falling into his views; but then arose the question as to what was to be done with their children. They soon decided not to leave them behind. The profession in which Charles was about to enter would probably confine him to his own country for the remainder of his life, while Emily's health, as well as that of her mother, was likely to be much improved by the journey. The studious habits of Charles gave his father assurance that he would not waste his leisure hours, although no longer under the control of a tutor. Emily had been educated at home by a careful governess, who was now about to join her sister in the management of a school. She had made consider- able progress in the more solid branches of education; and it was decided that, whenever the family remained for a time in any of the larger cities, the young people should have the advantage of masters, while their parents resolved that they would themselves also act the part of instructors so far as opportunity ofiered. AERIVAL IN PARIS. O Mr. Dalton succeeded in letting his house to a gentleman lately returned from India, who also con- sented to retain two of the domestics; an arrangement which gave great satisfaction, as they were old and faithful servants. A young woman, named Marshall, the daughter of Emily's nurse, who, during the twelve- month she had been in their service, had proved herself to be very steady and trustworthy, they determined to take with them. A few days after Charles's return home for the holidays, and while the family were at breakfast, Mr. Dalton acquainted his children with his intention. I must leave my young readers to imagine the joy which such news created in their minds. They could think and talk of nothing else for the rest of the day, and could hardly be prevented from at once beginning to pack for the journey. A month, however, passed before their father was ready, and the time seemed so long, that at last they began to fear that the hour of departure would never arrive. The family party left England about the middle of June, and passing through Ha\Te to Rouen, they arrived in Paris, where they established themselves in comfortable apartments. Two months were pleasantly and profitably spent in that city, and then they travelled on to Geneva. After remaining some weeks in S^^^tzerland, they crossed the pass of St. Gothard into Italy, and visited Bologna, Florence, and Rome, on their way to Naples. In the latter city, they engaged a suite of rooms on the Chiaja, and there Mr. Dalton proposed that they should reside till the returning spring enabled them to visit the central and northern countries of Europe. Our young travellers b SOJOURN AT NAPLES. were delighted with all they saw, and repeatedly exclaimed that this was the happiest time of their lives. Their pleasure was greatly increased by wit- nessing a rapid improvement in the health of their dear mamma; while their father was fully occupied in accompanying them to every object of interest within their reach, and in reading with them such books of history and travel as were most likely to impress permanently on their memory clear ideas of the countries they travelled through. The young people had acquired a competent knowledge of French before leaving England, and in Paris, Florence, and Naples,* the whole family diligently applied them- selves to the study of Italian. The progress of Emily in this beautiful language was so rapid, that she fancied it would be an easy matter to become a proficient in it. As she advanced, she found that to acquire a critical knowledge of Italian was no common attainment: she proceeded, however, so industriously, that she was soon able to speak it with tolerable fluency, while Charles and his parents could make themselves understood. During one of Mr. Dalton's early morning walks on the shore of the magnificent Bay of Naples, he met, equally to his surprise and pleasure, with an early friend, who, thirty years before, had gone to seek his fortune in India. Time had, during this long interval, been busy with them both. While * The author is unwilling to lose this opportunity of men- tioning Signore Trilli, Naples, as a very excellent teacher of Italian. He is well acquainted with English and French. His address may be learned of Messrs. Cotterill and Co,, bankers, in that city. UNEXPECTED RENCONTRE. 7 Major Scott's pallid countenance and delicate state of health showed that he had not braved the burning sun of Hindostan with impunity, his friend's appear- ance gave plain evidence of the wear and tear of a London life. They were, however, not too much altered to recognise each other, and cordial was their greeting. Major Scott became at once a frequent and welcome visitor of the family, who learned with regret that his stay at Naples was drawing to a close. In about ten days he started for Eome, but took an opportunity, before he left, of running over "the story of his life" to his interested and attentive auditors. The Major had always been fond of sport- ing, and had been stationed in several parts of India where he could fully indulge in his favourite amuse- ment. His numerous adventures in his chase of the elephant, tiger, and wild-hog, were eagerly listened to by the young folks, and there were times when Charles's dreams of becoming the first surgeon of his day, gave place to reveries over the pleasures of a soldier's life. Major Scott had left India about twelve months before, by the overland route, and, on arriving at Cairo, had gone into Upper Egypt, and afterwards travelled through Syria. He had lingered in a southern region, that he might not too abruptly enter the cold and damp climate of his native land. Mr. Dalton's thoughts had lately been much occupied with both these countries. Some recently published books of travels had tended to increase his ardent desire to visit them, but he imagined that, with his family, such an expedition was out of the question. Major Scott was of a different opinion, and in an O THOUGHTS OF THE EAST. after-dinner tete-a-tete, he convinced his friend that such an excursion was not only practicable, but would amply repay him for the fatigue, expense, and slight risk he must necessarily incur: he also furnished him with much useful information for his guidance during the journey. Mrs. Dalton was then consulted, and although she was at first startled by the proposition, ere long she willingly consented to it. Her husband lost no time in writing to England for several articles which could not be easily procured in Egypt; among them, a canteen, some cutlery, linen, blankets, marmalade, and hams, were not forgotten. He took care not to omit to order several books, as well as a variety of trifling articles for presents to the natives. The friend to whom the commission was entrusted executed it without delay, and the case reached Mr. Dalton on his arrival at Alexandria. The next step was to inform the young people of the intended journey. They listened to their father with even greater eagerness and pleasure than when he first told them of his intention to take them on the Continent. The enjoyment of the last few months had been greater than their most sanguine expecta- tions; and now, to go through countries so rarely visited by Europeans, and where, perhaps, English children had never travelled before, was a truly delightful proposition. Some slight fears passed through Emily's mind, but she had too great confi- dence in the prudence and caution of her parents to dwell on them. In Charles, on the contrary, arose a desire for adventure, and at times he almost wished that they might not find their journey quite so easy and safe as his father seemed to expect. It was A father's counsel, 9 probable that their studies would be considerably in- terrupted, but their parents reminded them that they must not fail to gather as large a store of information by the way as possible. " To do this/' Mr. Dalton observed, "you must keep your eyes open. Do not suffer anything to come before you, without trying to understand it. Ask me as many questions as you please, and I think you will never find me unwilling to answer them, so far as I am able. We have all, I hope, acquired a much clearer knowledge of the history and characteristics of France, Switzerland, and Italy, than we could have gained from books only, and I expect that we shall profit still more largely in countries so strange and new to us as Egypt and Syria." " Yes," added their mother, " and above all, I trust we shall go Bible in hand, and diligently search for all that will enable us the better to understand it. I should very unwillingly have given my consent to our present plan, had I not expected that we should hereafter be able to read the Scriptures with greatly increased interest, and with a more vivid impression of the truth of their narratives." 10 VOYAGE FROM NAPLES. CHAPTER II. VOYAGE FKOM NAPLES MESSINA CATANIA SYRACUSE — EAR OF DIONYSIUS ANCIENT QUARRY ASSEMBLAGE OF THE DEAD — MALTA THE FALDETTA CATHEDRAL ENGLISH CHURCH HURRIED DEPARTURE THE ' ORIENTAL* STEAMER VOYAGE TO ALEXANDRIA THE PHAROS ARAB BOATMEN SCRAMBLE FOR THE FRANKS FIRST DONKEY RIDE ALEXANDRIA BAZAARS BARGAINING WOMEN OF ALEX- ANDRIA WRETCHED INFANTS — THE EVIL EYE THE TASKMASTER LOADING THE CAMEL. In the latter part of December, our travellers em- barked on board a Neapolitan steam-boat, which, touching at Messina, Catania, and Syracuse, landed them at Malta before the close of the month. The sea was by no means tranquil as they sailed between the Scylla and Charybdis of the ancients; but modern science has divested the famous rock and whirlpool of nearly all their terror, and the navigation is no longer considered dangerous, except during a severe storm. They were charmed with the view of Messina, as they entered its beautiful harbour. The town, however, offered no particular attractions: it con- tains very few ancient buildings, having been nearly destroyed by the terrible eruption of Mount Etna, in 1783, when more than forty thousand persons perished in Sicily, and Calabria was wholly ruined. SYRACUSE. 11 Tlie wind had now become violent, but as it blew from the land, they were able to continue their course during the night, and at an early hour next morning, they saw Mount Etna, covered with snow, rising in majesty above the surrounding country. Large volumes of smoke continually issued from its crater, while many large masses of lava, the produce of old eruptions, were discernible along the shore. The mountain was many miles distant, but it was evident that the burning streams had forced their way into the very sea. They spent a few hours at Catania, which has been rebuilt over the ruins of the ancient city. Blocks of lava surrounded the harbour, were spread over the neighbouring country, and might even be seen peeping out under the foundations of the houses. Many of the buildings were con- structed of the same material, and everything gave \vitness of the terrible catastrophe of the last centurj^ The young people wondered at the boldness of the Catanians, in remaining so near their formidable enemy; but before the close of their Eastern journey, they had learned from experience, that the human mind easily becomes accustomed to danger, and when familiarized, almost indifferent to it. By the time they reached Syracuse, it blew a hurricane, but sheltered by the land, as before, they entered its magnificent harbour without difficulty. Here they were kept prisoners for three days by the state of the weather; but as they had met with some agreeable fellow travellers in the vessel, and were lodged at an inn superior to those generally found in Sicily, they passed the time very agreeably. While the wind blew with extreme violence, the sky was 12 EAK OF DIONYSIUS. perfectly clear, and the weather almost too warm. An old man who had served under Napoleon, and spoke a little Italian, a language very different from that used by the Sicilians, offered himself as guide, and conducted them to many of the remarkable anti- quities of Syracuse and its neighbourhood. We are bound for the East, and therefore our young readers must not be detained by a description of all that the family saw on the way. They may, however, have heard of the celebrated " Ear of Dio- nysius." It excited such lively interest in Charles and Emily, that we may venture to say a few words about it. It forms part of an enormous quarry, which was employed by the tyrant as a prison. The holes made in the rock, to which chains were attached, are still visible in many places. The "Ear" is a cavern, excavated out of the rock, of very great length; and something like a half-moon in shape. At bottom it may be forty or fifty feet wide, and slopes upward in a gradual curve till the sides meet at a height of about sixty feet. One end is now open to the air, although once closed up by masonry; while the other is, from the great turn made in the construction, almost in total darkness. The slight noise made by tearing a piece of paper in any part of the cavern is distinctly heard throughout; while a small cannon, fired off by an old woman, who showed the prison, painfully affects the ear. It is said that Dionysius had a little recess made near the top, the remains of which are still visible, and that, after imprisoning persons whose loyalty he doubted, in this gloomy abode, he used to listen to their conversation. About two miles distant is a monastery, to which is MALTA. 13 attached a large garden, planted at the bottom of a similar quarry, where an attempt had been made to construct another prison like the Ear of Dionysius. Part of the rock overhead gave way, however, and it was never completed. The garden is sheltered from the ardent sun of Sicily by the high surrounding rocks, and the monks are thus enabled to rear many fruits and flowers which flourish only in temperate climes. One of the brotherhood presented Mr. Dalton with a tough sapling of pomegranate, which became his con- stant walking companion and faithful friend during his stay in Egypt. Before the family left the con- vent, they were taken to a large vault under the chapel, where are deposited the bodies of the deceased brotherhood, as well as of many Syracusans who have desired to repose in such revered society. There is something in the nature of the air and soil which pre- vents decomposition, and the bodies, placed upright in niches, are clothed as when alive. Some were even gaily dressed, and displayed, in their ghastly, discoloured, and withered faces, a strange and humi- liating contrast to the gaudy finery of their attire. The old monk, hardened, doubtless, by familiarity with the scene, did not discover much feeling, nor did the thought seem to cross his mind how soon he would be added to the company. "All men think all men mortal, but themselves." The next evening the wind abated, and, once more embarking, the Daltons reached Malta early the fol- lowing morning. As they entered the harbour, they could not but admire the amazing strengih of the fortifications. Cannon seemed to bristle from every quarter, and bid defiance to the most formidable 14 THE FALDETTA. enemy. Directly they landed, they were beset by a crowd of porters, which the policemen, in a uniform like those in London, could hardly keep in order. They mounted two or three of the " streets of stairs," for which the city of Valetta is so remarkable, and were soon seated at a good English breakfast, in Baker's comfortable hotel. To be in Malta, seemed, in many respects, like a return to English ground; and the whole party was forcibly struck with the favour- able difference between Valetta and the Italian cities. There was an air of prosperity and cleanliness in the streets, houses, and inhabitants, which might be sought for in vain in Italy. The people were better clad, and as the young folks took their morning walk, their ears were often regaled by the sound of their mother-tongue. Emily was specially delighted by the sight of numerous pretty English children at play, under the care of their nurses, in a large public garden, just outside the walls. She was amused, also, to notice, that all the native Maltese females were covered by a singular mantle of black silk, called a Faldetta. She was told that no woman dare appear in public without this costume, and that more than one attempt, made by travelled Maltese ladies, to change the fashion, had been unsuccessful, while they had brought much odium on themselves. The mantle is gathered on one side into a kind of hood, which covers the head. It improves the appearance of those who are young and pretty, but has just the opposite effect on those who are old or plain. The stay of our travellers at Malta was too short to admit of their making an excursion to Old Valetta, or to that spot where, tradition reports, the apostle Paul CATHEDRAL. 15 landed after his shipwreck. They visited, however, the fortifications and the cathedral with great interest. Both gave ample evidence of the former wealth and power of the Knights of Malta. The island possesses remarkable natural advantages for defence against an invading enemy, and each successive Grand Master vied with his predecessor in strengthening the forts and batteries. To attempt to take Valetta by storm would be useless; the only way of reducing it to submission must be by blockade. The cathedral is remarkably fine: the pavement is wholly composed of the armorial bearings and monumental inscrip- tions of the knights, formed of various-coloured marbles, beautifully inlaid. The side chapels rival each other in magnificence, and contain several first- rate paintings. When the French had possession of the island, they carried off an immense quantity of gold and silver plate and jewels, with which its treasury was loaded. Empty presses alone remain to tell of its former wealth, while the vessel which contained the ill-gotten booty foundered at sea, and all was lost! A heavy-looking silver balustrade, still standing before one of the altars, escaped the notice of the plunderers, by being painted previous to their arrival. The sacristan declared that it was of solid silver; but a slight tap or two proved that it was just as empty as many persons who attract the world's admiration by their show and glitter. The family went also to the government house, formerly one of the hotels of the knights, to see the armoury. It is chiefly interesting from the numerous trophies won in their battles with the Turks. On Sunday morning they had the privilege of attend- 16 ENGLISH CHURCH. ing divine service at the singularly beautiful cliurcli erected by the munificent Queen Adelaide. Previously, the English residents had no other place of worship than a room in the governor's palace. A large and attentive congregation are now suitably accommo- dated. It is surprising that so many years should have elapsed, after our countrymen took possession of the island, without a regular place of worship being provided. Mr. Dalton lost no time in continuing the prepara- tions for his journey. He purchased some portable bedsteads with hair mattresses, and laid in a stock of grocery, wine, &c. &c. Having met with a Maltese, who professed to understand Arabic, Italian, and English, and had more than once gone through Egypt and Syria, he engaged him as dragoman (interpreter) and travelling servant. He had barely time to make these arrangements, before the Peninsular Steam Packet Company's noble vessel, "The Oriental," arrived from England; and the next morning (New Year's day) the French steamer brought that part of the mail which had been sent through France to Marseilles. All was bustle, and after a hasty break- fast, our travellers hurried to the harbour, and embarked. The rain fell in torrents, somewhat to the injury of their luggage; but they tried to rejoice in the benefit it was doing to the island, which had suffered from want of rain for many months: so much so, that it had been intended to off'er up public prayers on that account in all the churches, that very day. The "Oriental" presented a scene of great con- fusion; she had brought out more than a hundred THE ORIENTAL STEAMER. 17 passengers, all of whom had seized the opportunity of paying a short visit to Valetta. They were now pouring into the vessel on both sides, while several barges full of coals were being discharged through the port-holes of the lower deck. The gangway was encumbered by the trunks and packages of our travellers, and other passengers from Malta. Matters, it must be confessed, did not at first look at all com- fortable, but before an hour had passed, Mr. and Mrs. Dalton were installed in a pretty little cabin, just vacated by two ladies; Charles found a good berth in a larger cabin, while Emily was placed in the ladies' saloon, and Marshall was permitted to have a bed very near to her young mistress. The luggage was cleared away, the coals stowed in the hold, the decks thoroughly cleaned, and the " Oriental" once more regained her neat and orderly appearance. The vessel got under weigh, and the continued rain soon obscured Malta from their sight. The weather was calm, and consequently Charles and Emily were not prevented from making a quiet examination of their new residence ; they were surprised at the enormous size of the ship, and the excellence of the accom- modation. As they paced the lower deck, they noticed the carpenters, blacksmiths, and engineers' shops on one side, while the butcher, the baker, and the con- fectioner, were equally well accommodated on the other. The fore part was a kind of farm-yard; there were two cows, several sheep and pigs, Avith many turkeys, ducks, and other domestic poultry. In the kitchen the cooks were busily preparing the dinner; while in the centre of the vessel the ponderous engine steadily pursued its gigantic work. Returning into the C 18 VOYAGE TO ALEXANDRIA. spacious saloon, tliey found many of tlie passengers employed in reading and writing, and their mamma pointed out to them the many comforts of her little cabin. Then the bell rang for lunch, and there was a general demolition of cheese, biscuits, and soda- water. At three they sat down to a plain, but good and plentiful dinner; at six, they had tea; and at nine, there was brandy-and-water, wine, and biscuits, for those who chose to take a Hght supper, A sub- stantial breakfast the next morning completed one day's round of meals; and the young folks felt, that whatever might happen, they were not likely to starve on board the " Oriental." When the weather cleared up, our friends enjoyed a walk along the spacious deck, more than two hun- dred feet in length, and admired the cleanliness and order which were everywhere visible. The whole vessel presented an agreeable contrast to the dirty Neapolitan steamer which had brought them to Malta. A large proportion of the passengers were young men, on their way to India. As Mr. Dalton surveyed them, when the whole company met at dinner, he could not help reflecting how many would never again see their native land, and how few would return before the health and vigour of youth were gone for ever! The next day there was a smart gale, and Mrs. Dalton and Emily were confined to their berths, but Charles and his father took their usual places at table. The passengers from England had become seasoned to rough weather, and few were absent. Charles was amused to find a frame of mahogany, with many partitions, fixed over the cloth, which effectually kept ARAB BOATMEN. 19 plates^ dishes, and glasses, in their places. Sunday followed, and although the weather was very rough, divine service was performed by a young clergyman, and a sermon preached to an attentive audience, who, however, when called upon, in the course of the prayers, to stand up, were obliged to steady themselves by clinging to the table. The wind was favourable, and by four o'clock on Monday afternoon the " Oriental" anchored in the harbour of Alexandria. The coast is low, and there is nothing very striking in the appearance of this celebrated city, as it is approached from the sea. A handsome lighthouse, was pointed out to the travellers, as standing on the spot where once rose the celebrated Pharos of the Ptolemies. Of the original building nothing now remains, although a considerable portion still existed in the twelfth century. It is said to have been a thousand cubits high, and surrounded by an exterior winding ascent, leading to numerous apartments, and so arranged that beasts of burden could mount to the top. The moment the anchors were dropped, the same scene of bustle commenced as had accompanied the departure of the vessel from Malta. Almost all the passengers were bound for India; and as they were obliged to leave Alexandria early the next morning, they lost no time in hurrying on shore. A crowd of boats, manned by swarthy and vociferous Arabs, surrounded the vessel: the boatmen struggled to get near the landing-steps, and thrust each other away with little ceremony; with still less, did the officers and crew of the " Oriental" apply their sticks and rope-ends to the backs and heads of the poor fellows, c 2 20 SCRAMBLE FOR THE FRANKS. who seemed to take the blows as a matter of course, and were much more anxious to secure a freight than to avoid the castigation. In a very short time all but our travellers had left the steamer; then the in- numerable boxes of letters and trunks and packages of the passengers were brought on deck, and hastily transferred into the company's boats. As Mr. Dalton intended to remain a few days in Alexandria, he preferred waiting till the bustle had subsided, and then he and his family bade farewell to the noble " Oriental" and its courteous officers. Ludovico, the Maltese servant, was left on board to collect and follow with the luggage, in another boat: and as our travellers were rowed to the shore, Mr. Dalton began to congratulate his family on having so pleasantly concluded their voyage, and to talk to his children of the ancient glory of Alexandria. But no sooner had they arrived at the beach, than his reflections were abruptly brought to a close: the whole party was surrounded by a clamorous mob of donkey-men and boys, who seemed disposed to treat our friends as so many bales of luggage. Charles and Emily were seized and mounted almost before they touched the land; while their mamma and Marshall were laid hold by half-a-dozen other noisy Arabs. Mr. Dalton had witnessed the beating of the poor boatmen with a feeling of indignation, but he now found himself compelled to restore some degree of order by the exercise of his pomegranate sapling. By dint of many threats, and a few blows, he managed to clear a space around him, and then to select a donkey for each of the party; and great was the triumph of the boys who had the preference. After ALEXANDRIA. 21 a parting laugh at their unsuccessful competitors, they put their lively animals into a smart trot, and away went the whole family at a rapid rate through the narrow and crowded streets. Expostulation was of no use, so they submitted to their fate. In a few minutes, to their surprise and pleasure, they found themselves deposited at the Hotel de I'Orient, where they intended to take up their quarters, without having run over any of the natives, or done any special mischief. The hotel was crowded with the over-land passen- gers, and beds were procured with difficulty. They were unprovided with mosquito curtains, and before morning the whole family had become intimately acquainted with one of the plagues of Egypt. Alexandria was for some centuries the capital of Eg}^t, and a very large and flourishing city. It was founded by the celebrated conqueror whose name it bears, and speedily rose into great importance from its favourable position for commerce. Till the Cape of Good Hope was discovered by the Portuguese, in 1493, all the intercourse with India was carried through it. Under the reign of the Ptolemies, it is said to have contained three hundred thousand inhabitants; while at present it is doubtful if there are an eighth of that number. Of late years, however, they have rapidly increased; and Mehemet Ali has done much to restore a portion at least of its former prosperity. It is once more in the high road to India, and, if peace continues, must soon become a place of great trade. Apollos, the coadjutor of St. Paul, was born here; and Christianity was first introduced into Egypt by the evangelist Mark, who suffered martyrdom 22 ALEXANDKIA. here. The library founded by Ptolemy Philadelphus was long the wonder and admiration of the world. It was destroyed by the Saracens when the Caliph Omar took possession of the city; and history records, that for some months the books supplied sufficient fuel, to heat the four thousand baths the city then con- tained. Large mounds of rubbish around the present city attest its former magnitude; and discoveries of coins, medals, bronzes, and other antiquities, are made whenever they are disturbed. Charles and his father rose early, and, accompanied by Ludovico, rode to the banks of the Mahoumied Canal, to take leave of their Oriental friends. They were again mounted on donkeys — a very superior race to their humble English brethren. Each was followed by an active and lively Arab boy, who with difficulty could be prevented from keeping the animal at a gallop, while he laughed and talked in a strange mixture of English, Italian, and Arabic. They were engaged for the day, and for the moderate sum of five piastres,* each donkey and boy were to be at their service from sunrise to sunset. The passengers for India had all embarked, and Mr. Dalton had hardly time to say farewell, before the two barges in which they were crowded were tugged away by a scrubby little steamer. After breakfast, the whole party rode through the city. Their hotel was situated in the Frankt quarter, in a very large square, surrounded by handsome * A piastre is worth something less than two-pence half- penny, and is divided into forty paras. + Frank is the designation applied in the East to all Europeans, ALEXANDRIA. 23 modern buildings, not much differing in appearance from those seen in Italian towns. The resemblance was, indeed, so great, that the young folks, as they looked out of window, might have fancied themselves to be still in Europe, had not the different costume of the people, and the numerous and heavily laden camels which continually went by in long files, shown them that they had really arrived in the East. When our travellers appeared at the door of the hotel there was a general rush of donkeys and their drivers from all quarters, and the scene of the previous evening was about to be re-enacted; but Ludovico had armed himself with a heavy koorbash,* which he vigorously applied to the shoulders of the boys. He had already discovered so much antipathy to the Arabs, whom he held in great contempt, that Mr. Dalton saw that he would use his "little brief authority" without discretion. He interfered, there- fore, directly, and gave the Maltese to understand that he could not permit him to make use of blows, except in a case of absolute necessity. He was by no means pleased with the injunction, and tried to convince his master, without effect however, that nothing could be done without. When the whole party had mounted, Ludovico led the way, and they followed him in single file through the narrow and crowded streets. They first went to the principal bazaar, which is nothing else than several streets of small shops, open in front. The owners, sitting cross-legged on a carpet, were seen * Koorbasli is a long strip of the thick hide of the hippopo- tamus, tapering to a point, and shaped hke a riding whip. It is a formidable weapon. 24 BARGAINING. smoking their chibooks,* and patiently waiting for customers. The goods displayed appeared to be of little value and indifferent quality. There were many dealers in tobacco who were employed in cutting the leaves of the plant into small pieces, by much the same process as straw is chopped for horses in England. Coffee-shops also abounded, and were apparently much frequented. The coffee had been pounded into a fine powder, and was served in a thick liquid state, in very little cups, held by a metal frame, and drank without sugar or milk. An Arab usually visits a coffee-house many times in a day, without, however, incurring great expense, as a cup costs five paras only. It is customary for a shop- keeper to regale a customer with a few whiffs out of his chibook, and a cup of coffee procured by his boy from the nearest vendor. The family made a few trifling purchases in the bazaar, but soon grew tired of the way in which business was conducted. A sum, much beyond the value, was always asked; this was met by an offer from Ludovico quite as much below: a long argument followed, and when the price to be paid was agreed to, the payment was an equally tedious affair. If change was required, all sorts of coins, of dubious value and currency, were proffered, and every piece of money tendered by the purchasers was examined with as much care as if it had been a doubtful antique in the hands of a collector. While these irksome negotiations were going on, our travellers had ample time to survey the passers- * A long pipe, formed of a wooden tube, generally of cherry- tree, with an earthenware bowl and an ivory or amber mouth- piece. WOMEN OF ALEXANDRIA. 25 by. The young people were mucli amused by the singularity of the costumes: almost all the women had their faces concealed by a piece of linen tied just under the eyes, and tapering to a point considerably below the chin: the centre part of the top was kept in its place by a ribbon hanging down the forehead, on which were strung several small gold or silver coins, or some circular knobs of silver or brass. With the poorer classes, the linen was ordinarily of a dark-blue or purple colour, and filthily dirty: it was evident that it was never washed. Our friends were not long in Egypt before they were satisfied, that however closely some of the laws of the false prophet Mahomet were observed, his exhortations to cleanliness were little regarded. Their sympathy and pity were soon excited by the miserable condi- tion of the infants they saw in the streets. They did not possess a shadow of the healthy, happy, and ruddy appearance of those of our own country; their scanty covering was dirty beyond belief, and they looked as if their skins had never been washed; but, worse than all, their faces were literally covered with flies, which neither parent nor child made any effort to drive away. These insects were most numerous about the eyes, and in many instances they eff"ectually prevented a young infant from opening them. On expressing her disg-ust at this shameful neglect to a friend resident at Alexandria, Mrs. Dalton was informed that much of it was owing to a most lamentable and injurious superstition existing among all classes of the Egyptian women. They believe that if a child excites the admiration of any one it will draw down " the evil eye" upon it, which will be 26 THE TASKMASTER. sure to be followed by a long train of misfortunes. While, therefore, the mother indulges in the luxury of dress and ornament to the utmost of her means, she keeps her infant in a state of abject wretchedness; and in this strange and unnatural way she effectually succeeds in preventing any dangerous admiration of her little one. A very large proportion of the people wanted one or both eyes, and very few had them in a healthy state. Mrs. Dalton was warned to be careful that flies did not rest on the eyelids of herself or children, which, however seemed to be their favourite settling place, ophthalmia being often communicated in this way. Leaving the bazaar, our travellers passed a public building in the course of erection; a great number of women, and children of both sexes, were carrying away the earth excavated for the foundation. Some labourers had loosened the soil, and the poor creatures then scraped it with their hands into circular baskets, which they bore away on their backs; they were barefooted, and very slenderly covered with rags. Several taskmasters, who have not ceased out of Egypt since the time of the Pharaohs, stood at intervals, holding a scourge of cords, which was not spared if any of the people, as they passed by crouch- ing under their burdens, seemed to slacken in their work. A rude monotonous chant was constantly kept up by the labourers to quicken their pace, and, as the Daltons were told, to cheer them in their work ! They had been all pressed into the service by the Pasha's officers, and were paid at the miserable rate of half a piastre a day. The morning's excursion was concluded by a ride LOADING THE CAMEL. 27 round the harbour, where they noticed two or three men-of-war belonging to the Pasha, and amused themselves by watching the loading of some camels. The animal was made to lie down, a net-work of strong cord was thrown over his huge wooden saddle, and in it was placed whatever he had to carry. While being loaded, the poor creature kept up a peculiar half angry, half expostulating groan, which seemed to say, as plainly as words, " Oh dear ! what a shame ! this is too bad! pray have mercy!" &c, &c. But no sooner was the process completed, than he rose on his legs, ceased the noise, and seemed resigned to his fate. They carry about eight hundred weight with ease for a short distance, but cannot bear half that load during a leng-thened journey. The following day was partly employed in writing to England, as the " Oriental" was about to return with the passengers from India, who were hourly expected. Our next chapter shall begin with an extract from one of Emily's letters to her cousin. 28 EMILYS LETTER. CHAPTER III. Emily's letter — pompey's pillar — the pashas palace — ENGLISH CHURCH WEDDING OF THE PASHA's DAUGHTER Cleopatra's needle — Alexandrian village — mirage OF the desert MAHOUMIED CANAL THE NILE ARRIVAL AT BOULAK SEARCH FOR A BOAT THE UNION JACK HASSENEIN EFFENDI CONTRACT WITH THE REIS MALTESE PREJUDICE CHANGE OF DRAGOMAN EM- BARKATION "THE home" GETTING TO RIGHTS DAIREH INTRODUCED HADJEE MUSTAPHA — ARAB COSTUME THE REIS AND HIS CREW DEPARTURE FROM CAIRO FIRST DINNER A FEW WORDS ABOUT EGYPT. . . . . " We all got up very early this morning, for, although it is January, we find the heat rather trying. Yesterday, the sun would have done honour to an English June, and there was not a cloud to be seen in the clear blue sky. Papa thought we should act wisely in going out before breakfast, and in the evening, while the middle of the day would be well employed in our studies. We engaged the same donkeys we had yesterday, and away we went to see Pompey's pillar. Oh, my dear Laura, you know how often I have wished that you could be with me; and as I was trotting along on my nice active Egyptian donkey, I thought how you would have enjoyed the ride. You are not to suppose that it was anything Emily's letter. 29 like the patient but sluggish neddies we used to have at Eamsgate. It would not go slowly, and its pace was very easy. Its master, a merry, grinning little Arab, with brown face, naked feet, and scanty clothing, ran after it, and although paid by the day, never seemed happy unless we went at full speed. In the streets, he kept calling out, ' Riglak, riglak, shimmalak, or yamminak;' which means, ' Take care of your legs, to the left or to the right;' and the people all made way for us. Then he would look up in my face and laugh, and say, ' Very good donkey. Miss, — very good donkey! Have me to- morrow. Miss.' Sometimes I was obliged to look very grave, and say, ^Bus, bus; assui;' that is, ' Enough, enough; go slowly;' but it was of no use, the rog-ue only laughed, and made the donkey go faster. You see, dear, that I have already beg-un to talk Arabic. " Before we got to Pompey's pillar, we overtook a funeral procession, just as it reached a burial-ground. First walked a man, carrpng a long white bundle in his arms — it was the body of an infant; he was followed by five or six women, who now and then broke out into shrill, discordant cries. It was clear that they did so only as a matter of form, nor I could not discover any appearance of real grief, except in one, who proved to be the mother. A few men came after, repeating, as Ludovico told us, some verses out of the Koran. They stopped at last, and a man dug a hole not more than half a yard deep. While this was doing, the mother kept crjdng, ' Oh ! my dear child, why did you leave me ! Come back to your mother! Pray for your mother, oh my 30 pompey's pillar. child!' and similar exclamations. But I think she did not feel her loss very deeply, till the poor little thing was taken out of the shawl in which it was wrapped, and laid in the earth, tied up in a piece of calico. Then she cried bitterly, and seemed much affected. There was no ceremony, the earth was quickly scraped over the body, and the mourners left the ground. " Pompey's pillar was close at hand, and we soon reached its pedestal. It seemed to me very much like the Monument in London, but not so large nor so high. There were several English names painted about it, some very near the top; and I was told that a party of sailors had lately managed to climb up by means of a rope ladder, and that even a young woman had mounted with them. I am sure I should have been afraid to venture. "I have a great many other things to tell you, but papa says that it is time for bed, and our letters go early to-morrow; so, my dear cousin, I must say good-bye for the present. You cannot think how anxious I am to see the Nile and the Pyramids, and the Sphinx and Thebes, and all the other wonders of Egypt. How much I am obliged to Major Scott for persuading papa to visit the East." To Emily's account of " Pompey's pillar," we must add, that it is a solitary and very beautiful Corinthian column, standing in the vicinity of Alexandria, not far from the Mahoumied Canal. It is about a hundred feet high, and the pedestal, shaft, and capital consist each of a block of fine granite. How it acquired its present designation is not ascertained. THE PASHA S PALACE. 31 It is generally believed to have been erected by one of the Eoman emperors — probably Diocletian. As it stands on an open plain, and on a small eminence, it is seen to great advantage, and appears taller than it really is. Perhaps one use to which it was anciently applied was as a landmark for mariners, and it still answers the same purpose. When the summit has been reached, a kite has been employed to carry a string over the capital, by means of which, first a cord, and then a rope-ladder have bee-n drawn up. At breakfast, the Daltons were delighted to find that a pleasant and intelligent German gentleman, their fellow traveller from Sicily, had procured ad- mission for the whole party to the interior of the Pasha's palace. The Janissary* of the Swedish consul was to escort them. When he arrived, they were joined by their German friend and five or six of his acquaintances. All the company were mounted on the never-failing donkeys. The consul's officer was a tall and very fat man, and Emily pitied the poor animal that fell to his lot. The whole party followed him in single file, and Ludovico brought up the rear. A procession of more than a dozen Europeans, some of whom were females, headed by the fat janissary, made some sensation even among the apathetic Mussulmen, which was not decreased by the laughter and jokes of the merry company. * A Janissary is a native officer in the employ of a consul, and acts as his representative in any case where the consul's own presence is not necessary. He wears a peculiar costume, and carries a large silver-headed cane. To judge by the conse- quential deportment of these functionaries, they consider them- selves persons of no small importance. 32 THE pasha's palace. Marshall had been permitted to join it, and would have willingly given her best cap for her mother to have seen her at the moment. A short ride brought them to the gates of the palace. They entered a large open space, and rode through an avenue of trees, whose sickly and stunted appearance show that they bear but indifferently the heat of an Egyptian climate. On the right was the Pasha's hareem,* a plain and even ugly building, with every window well secured by lattice-work of unpainted wood. The exterior of the palace has no pretensions to architectural beauty; but no sooner were the party admitted, than they were surprised by the elegance and costliness of the grand staircase, and the extensive and magnificent suite of apartments through which they were conducted. The flooring is composed of every variety of wood, beautifully inlaid and highly polished. Most of the walls are hung with silk tapestry, and surrounded by luxurious divans. t One large room, of an octangular form, with windows of painted glass, and commanding a fine view of the town and harbour, greatly excited the admiration of the visitors. In it were displayed magnificent presents from almost every sovereign of Europe. Even the Pope had contributed a splendid specimen of Roman Mosaic. The dining-room is fitted up in the English style, with a large mahogany * Hareem is the designation of the house, or suite of rooms, reserved for the exclusive use of females in the East. It also means, the female part of any family. + A Divan is a couch, raised about eighteen inches from the floor, and usually three feet wide. It is in Egypt placed against the wall, and the master of the house and his guests recline or sit cross-legged on it. ENGLISH CHURCH. 33 table, and chairs of the same wood, and the visitors were told that the Pasha occasionally takes his seat at table in the European fashion. There is throughout the whole palace a curious mixture of European and Eastern decoration and furniture, but the general effect is very imposing. A French clock, of no great value, standing on one of the mantel-pieces, was wound up by the servant, that our friends might see a representation of a locomotive engine and some railway carriages in motion. This trifling toy was evidently regarded as a miracle of art, and triumphantly exhibited as a great curiosity. The largest apartment, a hall of audience, being dis- mantled and under repair, was not shown. A heavy rain had recently come through the ceiling, and done it great injury. The whole palace is built of very frail materials, and would ill bear the severity of a northern climate. In the evening, the travellers took their seats at the hospitable board of an English merchant, long resident in Alexandria. His young children, with their pretty faces and nice dress, offered a most agreeable contrast to the poor little abject Arabs. From their host, they learned that a handsome but unfinished building in one corner of the great square was intended for an English church. It was pleasant to hear this, as they had already seen a large and costly Catholic chapel nearly completed, at no great distance. The architect, a young Englishman, has ventured on the bold scheme of mixing different styles of architecture in his design, and, so far as could be judged from a drawing, with much success. At the dinner table was a lady who had just D 34 WEDDING OF THE PASHA's DAUGHTER. returned from Cairo. She had gone there to be present at the marriage of the Pasha's daughter, which had been celebrated with unexampled mag- nificence. The rejoicings had lasted for a week, and each day a splendid banquet was given to a very large number of guests. The lady gave an animated description of the scene, which must have been very peculiar, as of course none but females were present. She said that the dresses were exceedingly costly and splendid, and that many of the ladies were very beautiful. The first day, the bride almost sunk under a weight of diamonds and other jewels, and her bridal costume was magnificent, but afterwards she was distinguished by the simplicity of her attire. She was very quiet, and did not look happy. The Daltons afterwards learnt that she had entreated her father to excuse her marrying the husband he had selected. The Pasha replied that the preparations were too far advanced, and the ceremony must take place, but that she might be divorced the day after, if she pleased. While the festivities were going on within the palace, there were illuminations and fire- works for the amusement of the people. A temporary theatre was erected, and Italian singers and French dancers engaged at a great expense. It was said that nearly £200,000 was expended on the occasion. The whole affair was conducted in a manner so different from the customs of the East, that it may be regarded as one remarkable evidence that the barriers which have so long separated the Mahomedan from the Christian world are beginning to give way, and probably will soon disappear. The lady at whose house they had dined took Cleopatra's needle. 35 Mrs. Daltou and Emily for a ride tlie following morning. They went to a very beautiful garden, near the city, belonging to an Italian merchant; and although it was January, they brought home with them a noble bouquet of flowers which had bloomed in the open air. The family afterwards went to see Cleopatra's Needle, an immense obelisk of granite, standing near the remains of a Roman tower, about half a mile from the city. It is about sixty feet high, and formed of a single piece. Another obelisk, of the same dimensions, lies on the ground, and half buried, close by it. Champollion, who has deciphered the hieroglyphics with which they are inscribed, assigns them to the age of Moeris, one of the most celebrated of the Pharaohs, who flourished 1725 years before the Christian era. They were probably originally erected at Thebes, and brought down the Nile by the Romans. On their way, the Daltons passed through one of the miserable villages which surround Alexandria. It consists of a number of huts, too low to stand upright in, and built of mud mixed with straw. They have flat mud roofs, and a hole, rather than a door, to creep in at. A mat in one corner to sleep on, an earthen jar for water, a wooden bowl, and an iron pot, form the whole of the furniture and utensils. Women and children were squatted in groups on the ground outside, basking in the sun. These hovels would not be thought good enough for pigsties in England, and a heavy rain, w^iich is not uncommon in Alexandria, generally washes down several of them. They are inhabited by the families of the soldiers, sailors, and labourers of the Pasha. They d2 36 MIRAGE OF THE DESERT. live rent free, as may well be supposed, while their husbands receive the noble pay of fifteen piastres* per month. The women and children looked depressed, dirty, ragged, and miserable, and they followed the party crying out, " Backsheesh !" Backsheesh is the Arabic for " a present." It had already been addressed to them a hundred times, and its sound never ceased to ring in their ears while they remained in Egypt. The most careless student of the language at least acquires a thorough knowledge of that word, and is never likely to forget, it. A French packet arrived in the evening; and early the next morning, the Daltons joined the passengers it brought from Marseilles, to proceed to Cairo. On going to the canal, they found the little steamer ready, and embarked in the covered barge it was about to tug. They travelled all day along the canal which connects the Nile with Alexandria. A large expanse of country, near the city, is covered by sea water, the English having broken down the ancient dykes during their contest with the French in Egypt, in A.D. 1801. To their left was a great extent of desert, and here the travellers saw a striking example of that singular optical delusion called the Mirage. An extensive lake seemed to lie in the midst of the sand; and so complete was the deception, that most of the passengers insisted that it was really water, till undeceived by the crew. It often happens that the parched and weary traveller through the desert is thus led out of his course, and mocked by the hope of a refreshing draught. * Three shillings English. THE NILE. 37 Much has been said in praise of the Mahoumied canal, and of the energy of the Pasha in constructing it in less than twelve months. But when it is con- sidered that two hundred and fifty thousand men, women, and children, were forced into the service, and so badly pro^aded with tools that many scooped out the earth with their hands — and that twenty thousand (some say thirty) perished from hunger, fatigue, and disease, it must be regarded rather as a monument of cruel tyranny, than as a great national work. By sunset, the barge had traversed the canal, passed Atfeh, and entered the Nile through a spacious lock. The passengers were then transferred into a larger and more commodious steam-vessel. As the Daltons slowly floated into the mighty river, they thought of all its old glories, of the great nations which once peopled its banks, and the many wonderful events it had witnessed. With Emily, the Nile and crocodiles were so closely associated, that she was disappointed to find that she must still travel some hundreds of miles before she should see any. The Nile is one of the most remarkable rivers in the world: for twelve hundred miles it does not receive a single tributary stream. Its water is excellent, and the natives say that whoever once drinks it will never wish to leave its banks. This is an exaggeration, of course; but the water is so much valued, that large quantities are bottled, and sent to Constantinople. The fertility of Egypt is wholly dependent on the Nile. Where it covers the land, either by its ordinary overflow, or by artificial 38 THE NILE. means, the crops are enormous, while every other part of the country is mere desert. It begins its annual rise in June, and is highest about the middle of August, when the country is almost entirely under water. Modern discovery has completely unveiled the mystery which once hung over this remarkable phenomenon, and it is now clearly ascertained that it is caused by the excessive rains in the tropical regions. From August, the stream gradually lessens in volume till the early part of June. The periodical rise is expected with great anxiety, and when it reaches a certain height, great rejoicings take place, and an immense number of canals for conveying the water to distant parts of the country are opened. Volney observes, that for three months in the year, Egypt is a lake; for three months a marsh, but covered with verdure; and for the remaining six, a parched and dusty region. Under the present govern- ment, large additions have been made to the ancient canals, and although their construction is a heavy burden on the people, yet they will eventually be a great benefit. When within about thirty miles of Cairo, the travellers caught a view of the pyramids of Ghizeh, towering above the surrounding country. They re- garded these wonderful monuments with no common interest, and thought of the many centuries which had passed since they had first greeted the eye of the voyager up the Nile. About eight o'clock, they reached Boulak, the port of Cairo, where carriages were waiting to take the passengers into the city. After a ride of two miles, they alighted at the Hotel de rOrient, a large and uncomfortable house, kept by SEARCH FOR A BOAT. 39 a Frenchman, wlio is also head cook to the Pasha. Having taken tea, they were glad to retire to rest. They rose at half past six the next morning, but although the year was just begun, the sun was already up, and shining with great warmth and brilliancy. As breakfast was not served till half- past ten, Mr. Dalton, accompanied by Charles and Ludovico, lost no time in riding down to Boulak, in search of a boat for the voyage up the Nile, but could find none likely to suit them. The port was a scene of great bustle, and they had to thread their way through a dense mass of men, women, and boys, donkeys and camels. Immense piles of wheat were lying on the wharf, unprotected from the weather, showing plainly that rain did not often fall in Cairo. Directly they stepped on board any vessel to examine it, they were followed by a crowd of curious natives, who, squatting down on the deck, listened to their inquiries, and volunteered their remarks and opinions without any ceremony. Two days after, Mr. Dalton was more fortunate, for, assisted by Hassenein EfFendi, an officer in the Pasha's dock-yard, he engaged an excellent boat, manned by a reis, or captain, and eleven sailors, at the unusually moderate rate of fifteen hundred piastres a month.* The owner of the vessel lived on the borders of Nubia, and it had been sent to Cairo for a thorough repair. It was very clean, and quite free from vermin, so that the necessity of sink- ing it to destroy these pests was spared. Europeans ♦ Equal to fifteen pounds sterling. From twenty to tbirty pounds is the sum generally paid. 40 HASSENEIN EFFENDI. are generally obliged to adopt this effectual method of getting rid of rats and other more minute intruders before they venture to embark. Mr. Dalton imme- diately hoisted the Union Jack, by which he secured the sailors from being pressed into government service, and the poor fellows' eyes glistened as it mounted into the air. Hassenein, to whom Mr. Dalton had been intro- duced by the kindness of a friend, spoke English admirably. He was one of the young Egyptians sent to our country a few years ago to be educated at the expense of the Pasha, and one of the very few who had made a good use of their advantages. He talked of England with fond regret, and seemed to think the years spent there the happiest of his life. The family accompanied him on board two iron steamers used by the Pasha in his excursions up the Nile. They are built for river service, draw but little water, and are very roomy and comfortable. The next business was to order, under Ludovico's direction, a fire-place for the cook, and a large porous jar to filter water. A great variety of cooking and kitchen utensils, and many kinds of provisions not to be procured up the country, were also purchased. It was rather startling to find how much was wanted, but Mr. Dalton was reminded that he was laying in stores for two months, and that the after outlay would be very trifling. When he had met the reis of the vessel at the English consul's, and signed a contract, written in Arabic, he felt that his i^repara- tions were nearly completed. The boat was to be ready in three days, which could be pleasantly spent in seeing Cairo. EGYPTIAN MAGICIAN. 41 The young folks had been very much interested by Mr. Lane's account of the Eg^yptian Magician, and were anxious to witness a display of his wonderful art. Their father was told that he would not exhibit for a less sum than five dollars, but the subject being mentioned at the dinner table of the hotel, several of the company agreed to join in the expense, and the man was summoned the same evening. He was shown into a large dimly lighted saloon, and about twenty Europeans were soon gathered around him, as he squatted cross-legged on the floor. Shortly after, an Arab boy made his appearance, and sat himself down close to the magician. The latter, who was a grave elderly man, having ordered the boy to hold out his hand, poured some ink into it; then, after burning some incense, and repeating a few unintelligible words many times, and with great rapidity, he told the boy to look in the inky mirror and describe what he saw. At first the lad said that he saw nothing, and the magician began gabbling his incantation still more rapidly. Shortly after the boy pretended to be frightened, and said that he saw a man sweeping. The magician then requested the company to think of any person they knew, and promised that his or her figure should be seen by the boy and accurately described. A discussion arose among those present, and several well known public characters were proposed. But it appeared very likely to Mr. Dalton, that as two or three Maltese servants were in the room, who had been in England, and now acted as interpreters, there would be some collision between them and the magician, so without further delay he told him that he was 42 EGYPTIAN MAGICIAN. now thinking of a female friend. The person he called to mind was a stout elderly lady in a widow's cap and with grey hairs. The boy described her as a slim young lady, with dark hair in ringlets ! Then others of the company proposed various persons, all of which the boy pretended to see, and described, with equal want of accuracy. In no one case was there a shadow of correctness in his representation. Poor Emily, whose curiosity had been wound up to the highest pitch, was sadly disappointed by the repeated failures, while many of the company were not slow in expressing their conviction that the old necromancer was an arrant impostor, and the boy a party to the fraud. The magician was not slow to learn that a storm was brewing, and made a hasty retreat, having taken care to be paid beforehand. The boy also quietly but quickly vanished. Mr. Dalton had noticed an expression of anxiety, hesita- tion, and fear in the old man's manner from the first, and inquired of one of the interpreters from what cause it arose. The answer was amusing. " I believe Sir, it is because English gentlemen generally kick him down stairs and the boy after him." This expressive, but not not very agreeable testimony of "English gentlemen" to his merits as a conjuror was omitted on the present occasion, but it may be questioned whether it ought to have been. The whole affair was so palpably a gross and impudent fraud, without any redeeming trait of ingenuity, that those present were led to believe, that probably the man was not the same who made so great an impression on Mr. Lane and other travellers, but an impostor employed by the servants of the hotel to MALTESE PREJUDICE. 43 represent him, while the boy had also been taught his lesson. Our travellers had brought with them letters of introduction to Mr. and Mrs. Lieder, missionaries long resident at Cairo, and attached to the Church of England Society. Nothing could exceed the kind- ness with which they were received by these ex- cellent people. They gave them many valuable hints, and answered their numerous questions with admirable patience. They were able also to recom- mend an Arab servant as cook, whom they promised to send to the hotel. Mr. Dalton had been growingly suspicious that Ludovico's undisguised dislike of the Arabs would not tend to promote peace during the voyage, and his fears were confirmed by the way in which the Maltese received the announcement that a native cook was about to be engaged. He broke out into bitter invectives against the whole people, and said that he would rather give up his situation than travel with an Arab. Although his passage from Malta had cost a considerable sum, and his master would have to pay him as much to return home, he thought it advisable immediately to get rid of a man who appeared to have so little government of temper, and therefore he discharged him at once. He never regretted taking this step, for he found afterwards that he had made a great mistake in engaging a European servant. Independently of the expense of conveying them to Egypt, and having to pay them twice as much wages, they are rarely well acquainted with Arabic, and are universally disliked, from their overbearing manners, and disposition to tyrannize, by the sailors and other natives who come under 44 EMBARKATION. their control. With the kind assistance of the Lieders, an Arab dragoman and cook, with excellent certifi- cates, were soon engaged, and Mr. Dalton was well pleased to have got rid of Ludovico. As the family spent some days in Cairo, after their voyage on the Nile, we will reserve our account of that singular city till they return. On the morning agreed on with the reis, their voluminous baggage was taken into the court-yard of the hotel, where half a dozen camels were waiting to carry it down to Boulak. After breakfast, the travellers mounted their donkeys and followed it. In the boat, they found their friend Hassenein, who had kindly come to see that it was in proper order. He gave them a letter to the Cadi""' of Assouan, to be used in case of the misconduct of the crew, and, addressing the reis and his men, he enjoined them to behave with strict propriety; warning them at the same time, that they should be severely punished on their return, if there was any just cause for com- plaint. He then took leave, the vessel was unmoored, and the voyage commenced. We must try and give our young readers some idea of the floating habitation the family occupied for the next two months. The vessel was nearly eighty feet long, and had two masts, on which were suspended immense triangular sails. In the fore part stood a kind of box filled with sand, on which lay a few pieces of stone; this was the humble and primitive cooking place of the crew. In the centre, close to the mainmast, was the cook's fire-place. It was like a * Magistrate or local judge. "the home." 45 large kitchen screen in shape, but much deeper, made of wood, and well plastered inside. At the bottom were three little stoves formed of brickwork Avith iron gratings. Two or three planks had been taken out of the deck, so that the cook, while at work, stood in the hold, three or four feet lower down. A circular table, not more than six inches high, was placed on the deck for his use. Around the fireplace his cooking utensils were conveniently hung, while a large kafass,* ingeniously fitted up, stood at his left hand, containing a variety of smaller articles. Overhead were suspended two safes for pro\isions, neatly covered with white calico; while in the hold, at his feet, were some baskets of vegetables, and a good store of charcoal. About thirty feet of the stern of the boat was occupied by the cabins, which were built on the deck, and stood more than six feet high. They were entered by a covered portico, on each side of which was a very wide bench, Avith space to contain another large kafass for crockery and glass, the canteen, and an English packing case; in front, room enough was left for pleasant seats sheltered from the sun. The first cabin was nearly eight feet long, and of the whole width of the vessel. Mr. and Mrs. Dalton's beds were laid at night on the benches placed on either hand, while there was sufficient space in the middle for a good-sized table, and the folding stools on which the family sat. Next came a small cabin, in which was just room enough for Charles's bed; * The light but firm and strong stalks of palm leaves are made in Egypt into chests, safes, and every kind of case. They are very cheap, and are used for many purposes. They all bear the general name of kafass. 46 GETTING TO RIGHTS. while Emily and Marshall were comfortably accom- modated in a good-sized cabin beyond. There were also plenty of large lockers (or cupboards) under the benches, &c. The dragoman and cook set to work without delay to arrange the things committed to their charge; while Marshall, directed by her mistress, unpacked the trunks, and disposed of their contents in various parts of the cabins. Mr. Dalton and Charles had provided some deal boards, nails, and hooks; a saw, hammer and gimlet; and, although rather clumsy carpenters, they managed to fix up some very useful shelves for books, &c., while an ample provision of hooks and nails rour^d the cabins greatly added to their convenience. Emily in the meantime made herself useful, by cutting out and preparing little curtains of white calico for the numerous windows, which could also be closed by wooden shutters, when the sun was too hot. Over the cabins was placed a large flat kafass crowded with chickens, and in the hold under the deck were stowed the empty trunks, a bag of sea-biscuits, a sack of potatoes, and a good supply of oranges. Some hours were spent by our travellers in "setting things to rights;" but when their task was over, their new house looked so very comfortable and convenient, that they felt the morning had been well employed. Our young readers have already been introduced to every member of the Dalton family. We must now make them acquainted with the Aral) servants who had joined the party. Abdal Fattah El Daireh, the dragoman, was a swarthy grave-looking man about thirty-five years old. He spoke English and DAIREH INTRODUCED. 47 Italian with great fluency, and liad several times accompanied travellers up the Nile and through Syria. He was born in a large village in Upper Egypt, and his father had been in prosperous cir- cumstances; but he died while Daireh was still young. He soon after quitted his native place, to avoid being pressed into the Pasha's service. He began his career as a donkey-boy in Cairo; but having been accidentally engaged by Col. Howard Vyse, he gave so much satisfaction to that amiable and munificent traveller, that he was taken into his service. Two years afterwards he accompanied the Colonel to England, having a splendid Arabian horse under his charge. The Colonel wished Daireh to remain in his employ, but his knowledge of English was at that time very slight, and he felt so frightened and annoyed by the attention his dress and personal appearance excited, that he was, at his own request, sent back to Cairo, after a short stay in London. Daireh told his master that he thought that he should soon have been reconciled to an European life, but that he could not bear the thought of being so far away from his mother. He spoke with great feeling of the grief and bitter disappointment he felt, when he reached home, on finding that his remaining parent had died during his short absence. He then went into the service of an English gentleman in Alexandria, who discharged him in disgrace. It was much to his credit, that he abstained from offering a just excuse for the supposed fault which lost him his place, that he might not implicate another and much older servant. Perhaps the truth was soon after discovered, as the gentleman has since been one of 48 DAIREH. Daireli's best friends. For several years past, lie had been employed as a travelling servant, and had met with many adventures. One summer had been passed in Abyssinia, where he accompanied an American gentleman, who went in search of giraffes, two of which he had brought alive to Cairo. Last year, he travelled through Syria, with the Rev. Dr. Wilson, of Bombay, of whom he spoke with much feeling. Poor Daireh had latterly met with a heavy affliction. In attending some Indian passengers in a hurried visit to the pyramids, some grains of sand got into one of his eyes, and severe inflammation ensued. He unfortunately placed himself in the hands of a miserable French quack at Cairo, and after enduring- acute pain for several weeks, the sight of that eye was totally destroyed. His loss did not prevent his making excellent use of the other, and he proved to be a thoroughly good servant. He was honest, active, cleanly, and most attentive to Mrs. Dalton and her daughter. He appeared to feel reproof very keenly, and was indeed easily soured by it. But his master soon saw, that this demonstration of temper was occasioned by Daireh's great anxiety to please, and that the more he was trusted and praised, the greater was his devotion to his service. He had one fault, common to all Arabs, a great love of gossip. No business of any kind could be transacted without a long palaver, which, not unfrequently, was very annoying. But long before our travellers left the East, they had amply learnt, that no one ought to trust himself there, without carrying with him a good stock of patience. Hadjee Mohamed Mustapha, the cook, was a very HADJEE MUSTAPHA. 49 different character. Hot-headed and highly irascible, there were times when he could hardly be kept within bounds. He was remarkably clean in his person and kitchen, and an excellent cook. So zealous indeed in his art, that there was some difficulty in restraining him to the moderate bill of fare Mr. Dalton and his family preferred. His consumption of provisions was therefore great. Fifteen hundred eggs, for example, were consumed during the two months' voyage, but eggs could be purchased sixteen for a penny, a good chicken for twopence, a sheep for five shillings, and other articles of food equally cheap, so that much money could not be spent in Upper Egypt. Mustapha was proud of his title of Hadjee, or pilgrim, which he had gained by a visit to the thrice holy city of Mecca. It is a tedious and painful journey to most Mussulmen, but he performed it in an easy and profitable way, as he went there as the servant of an English traveller. Both Daireh and Mustapha were dressed in the Eastern style, with wide trowsers, embroidered vest, broad silk sash, and short jacket. Each wore a tarboosh,* with a coloured silk kerchief or white turban occasionally wrapped round it. They called themselves Arabs, as being Mahomedans, and as claiming to be descendants of the last conquerors of Egypt. The original inhabitants are now but few in number, and are termed Copts. They are Chris^ tians in profession, and almost all the clerks employed by government, or individuals, are Copt writers. It ♦ A tnrhoosh is a dark red cap of thick cloth, fitting close to the head, and which is never removed except at night. 50 THE REIS AND HIS CREW. is singular that no man styles himself an Egyi^tian. It seems as if every one avoided claiming to be a native of that country which the Bible tells us should become " the basest of the kingdoms."* The reis and his crew must not be passed by without mention. They were all Nubians, and very black. The reis was an old man, part owner of the vessel, but he took his meals with the crew, and, like them, slept at night on the roof of the cabins, covered by a mat only. Their diet was of the coarsest order, consisting of bread made of Dhourat flour, boiled in water, to which a little salt and a few onions were added. Animal food was evidently regarded as a dainty, but very seldom did they taste it. To their great credit it must be added, that although the provisions of the Daltons were frequently within their reach, and the savoury fumes must often have tempted their appetites, on one occasion only was anything pilfered. A young sailor then helped himself to some salad, just prepared for table, for which offence he was so cuffed and kicked by Mustapha, the reis, and some of the crew, that he must have felt keenly the truth of the adage, that " Honesty is the best policy." The crew had never come in contact with Europeans before, and regarded our travellers with great curiosity. All the multifarious necessaries of an Englishman's life, which most other people find they can do very well without, excited their astonishment as they were unpacked by the servants. There was, however, no * Ezekiel xxix. 15. + Dhoura is a kind of Indian corn, very common in Egypt The grain is of the size and appearance of small peas. DEPARTURE FROM CAIRO. 51 rude intrusion, and their whole behaviour was very resjDectful. While the family and their servants were employed as we have described, the sailors were disengaging the boat, and warping it away from the vessels by which it was surrounded. Two hours elapsed before they got clear, and when fairly under weigh their progress was very slow. The current was of course against them, and so also was the wind. The men jumped ashore directly they were out of Boulak, and towed the boat by means of a very long rope. Our travellers passed by the Island of Rhoda and Old Cairo, which we shall notice on their return. They saw the noble Pyramids on the right, which as yet, they had not time to visit; rather to Charles and Emily's disappointment, who were both eager to perform the great feat of mounting to the summit of the largest. By sunset, they had not gone more than six miles, but they were then quite clear of the busy en\arons of Cairo, and in as complete solitude as if they had travelled a hundred. Mr. Dalton had warned his children that they were not to expect the varied dishes and the elaborate cookery of the hotels, and that they must prepare themselves to be content with very simple food. He was not sorry, on his own account as well as theirs, that such, as he thought, was to be the change. But ]\Iustapha set vigorously to work, willing, we may suppose, to prove his skill. He sent in for the first meal such a variety of dishes, preceded by excellent soup, and followed by some very nice pancakes, that Mr. Dalton was fairly taken by surprise. He and his family did ample justice to what was put on the E 2 52 A FEW WORDS ABOUT EGYPT. table, but before next dinner-time he arranged for a much more moderate repast. MustajDha did not relish the restraint put on his culinary skill, and contrived to produce, in the course of the voyage, such a variety in his preparations as fully to prove that he was indeed an excellent cook. After dinner, Mr. Dalton had recourse to his little library, and endeavoured to give his children some idea of the remarkable country they were about to explore. Our limits will not admit of our going into any lengthened details about Egypt. We wish rather to entertain our young readers with the personal adventures of our travellers, and a descrip- tion of what actually came under their own notice; but perhaps a few observations may not be unwelcome. Egypt is one of the most ancient kingdoms in the world. Within a very few centuries after the flood, it had arrived at a high state of civilization. The first mention of it in the Bible is in the twelfth chapter of Genesis, where it is related that Abraham, at the command of God, left his native land and settled in Canaan, was obliged to travel further south, in consequence of a famine, and went down into Egypt. According to the Scripture chronology, he did so about nineteen centuries before the Christian era. The country was then under the government of Pharaoh. The investigations of Young, Champollion, and others, who have fortunately found a key to the hieroglyphical writing of the Egyptians, have enabled them to discover that there were several dynasties of the Pharaohs. One of the most powerful of its sovereigns was Sesostris, who conquered nearly the whole of Asia, and built many of the magnificent A FEW WORDS ABOUT EGYPT. 53 temples whicli still remain to testify of the pomp and grandeur of his empire. He lived about b.c. 1700. Joseph died in Egypt a century later. Nearly a thousand years B.C., Shishak, King of Egypt, invaded Judea, and carried away many prisoners." Among the captives represented in the sculptured triumphs of this king, it is easy to discover some with a decidedly Jewish physiognomy. In B.C. 525, Cam- byses conquered Egypt, and desecrated and destroyed many of the temples. For two centuries the Persians were masters of the country, but were subdued by Alexander the Great, who was succeeded by his half- brother Ptolemy, when his death caused the division of the Macedonian empire. Under Ptolemy and his descendants, the country again prospered; but in a quarrel for the succession, the interference of the Romans was requested, and finally it came under their subjection B.C. 29. In the seventh century, it was overcome by the Saracen hordes, who at first treated their subjects with great severity, but gra- dually the condition of the people became greatly ameliorated; and under Saladin, the Sultans or Caliphs of Egypt held the first rank among the Mahomedan princes. Subsequently the Mamelukes, a race of slaves imported from Georgia and Circassia, who had been incorporated into a military body, became virtually the masters of the country, and under their lawless sway it suffered greatly. In 1516 the Turks, under Selim, subdued Egypt, put the Mameluke Caliph to death, and appointed a Pasha as Viceroy. The power of the Mamelukes was not, * 2 Chron. chap. xii. 54 A FEW WORDS ABOUT EGYPT. however, wliolly subdued, and sometimes they were the real governors of the country, while at others the Porte was able to assert its sovereignty. In 1798, Egypt was invaded by the French, but they were expelled by the British in 1801, and the Turkish power again established. The present Pasha, who had risen into favour by his military talents, had no sooner assumed the reins of government, than he sought to render himself independent of his sovereign. He has shown but few scruples in attaining his object, as his massacre of the Mamelukes fully proves. Not only did he emancipate himself from the dominion of the Sublime Porte, but made himself master of Syria. By the interference of the European governments, he was obliged to relinquish the latter, but his sway over Egypt is now undisputed, although he professes allegiance to the Sultan, and pays an annual tribute in token of vassalage. His presumptive heir is the celebrated Ibrahim Pasha, who, however, is only the son of a favourite wife by a former marriage. Amidst all these changes and revolutions the people have been great sufferers, and although Mehemet Ali has done much to excite the admiration of the world, and has introduced many improvements, he has been prodigal of human life, and added little to the happiness of his subjects. The country has been greatly depopulated by his wars; numerous villages have been wholly ruined; there is still but little security of property; petty tyranny in every shape abounds, taxation is carried to its utmost limits, and the great mass of the people are miserably poor. Egypt is divided into three great portions. The Delta, or Lower Egypt, i. e., that part through which A FEW WORDS ABOUT EGYPT. 55 the Nile flows after it divides itself into several streams just below Cairo. Middle Egypt, which includes the country from Cairo to Minyeh, and Upper Egypt, or that part south of Minyeh, as far as Assouan, or the first cataracts. The Delta, so called from its resemblance in shape to the Greek letter D (a triangle), is well watered, and consequently wholly under cultivation. In it are the three sea- ports, Alexandria, Rosetta, and Damietta. Middle and Upper Egypt are nothing more than the valley of the Nile, which increases in width as it approaches to the north. It is bounded by a chain of barren rocks on each side, and all beyond is desert. The valley is in some places not more than ten miles wide, while in others the chain of mountains recedes, and there is an extent of fertile country. Innumerable canals, most of them of great antiquity, carry the waters of the Nile to every part when it overflows. "While the river is at its height, Egypt seems like one vast lake studded with towns and villages, which are built on natural or artificial elevations. Directly the water retires, the fields are planted or sown, and an abundant crop is soon ready for the harvest. No manure is necessary, as the Nile leaves a deposit of mud wherever it comes, which answers the purpose. Every year additions are thus made to the soil, and it is calculated that the banks, as well as the bed of the Nile, are forty feet higher than they were two thou- sand years ago. Where the land can be artificially irrigated, three crops are produced in the course of the year. In Upper Egypt there is scarcely any rain, nor is it frequent anywhere except near the sea coast. It must be confessed that it is not a beautiful 56 A FEW WORDS ABOUT EGYPT. country, the general absence of all trees but the palm and green acacia, the monotonous appearance of the plains, relieved only by barren hills in the back- ground, render it by no means agreeable to those accustomed to hilly and well-wooded scenery. There are no gardens except in the neighbourhood of Cairo and Alexandria, nor do the natives seem to have any idea of picturesque beauty. The cultivated land is bounded by deserts on each side of the valley of the Nile, and an hour's ride will carry the traveller from a profusion of vegetation to a region of the utmost sterility. BEAUTIFUL WEATHER. 57 CHAPTER IV. BEAUTIFUL WEATHER SLOW PROGRESS COPT CHARMS ISLANDS ON THE NILE RAFTS OF CROCKERY THE PALM TREE THE GOULAH A CHASE RUN AGROUND — MURDER OF SHEIKH SALAH BACKSHEESH SWIMMING MONKS HERD OF BUFFALOES TOWING THE BOAT A HARD PULL PERILS OF GLUTTONY ROBBER SANTON VISIT TO A SUGAR MILL INVITATION TO DINNER — CROCODILES IN THE NILE A RARE SHOT THE FAITHFUL FRIEND MAHOMEDAN DEVOTION KATTERHAIRACK NUBIAN SAILORS A HOT DOSE DINING OUT THE SHADOOF BIRDS OF EGYPT FISH IN THE NILE ARAB REPAST DELAY FOR BREAD TOWN WASHED AWAY PLENTY OF DUST — THE DEAD DONKEY — SAVAGE JUSTICE LOST SAILOR — THE PASHA AT ESNEH. The family rose early the next day, after a good night's rest. The sky was cloudy, and a smart shower fell in the course of the morning. It did not last long, the sun shone again with its usual brilliancy, and they had no more rain during their stay in Egypt. Englishman-like, Mr. Dalton used to observe, during the first week, when he stepped out of his cabin in the morning, and received Daireh's salutation, that it was "A very fine day." The dragoman's quiet reply of " Yes, sir," accompanied by a look of wonder 58 BEAUTIFUL WEATHER. at the remark, said very plainly, "Certainly it is; why should it not be ?" and reminded his master that he was in a country where the weather is very different from that of England. Before a month had passed, the whole family were accustomed to look on the uninterrupted sunshine as a thing of course. It is not easy to imagine how lovely is the climate of Egypt at this season of the year — a sky much clearer than that of Italy, through which the sun travels in unclouded majesty, and rises and sets with unexampled magnificence. At night, a firma- ment thickly studded with stars, almost dazzling the eye by their brightness, and a moon of such effulgence, that it hardly seems to be the same as that which shines in England. The Daltons thought of their friends at home, crowding round the fire, to escape from the cold damps and foggy air of January, or perhaps hurrying homewards through a cutting easterly wind, while they were enjoying a warmth equal to an English June, usually accompanied by a cool refreshing breeze, which delightfully tempered the heat of the sun's rays. Charles and Emily were not slow to observe the difference, and were disposed to find fault with the country of their birth, but they were soon checked by their mother, who reminded them of the fearful heat of an Egyptian summer, and how equable was the temperature of our favoured land. " To say nothing," she observed, " of the much greater measure of health possessed by the inliabitants of temperate regions, and the fevers and more fearful maladies which prevail in the torrid zone, there is something injurious even to the human intellect in very hot countries. Could the climate of Egypt be SLOW PROGRESS. 59 transferred to England, we should soon find her descend from that proud eminence she now occupies. Nor could we reside here for any length of time without experiencing a growing indolence of mind, as well as lassitude of body. Let us value and enjoy our present advantages, but let us be truly thankful that we are only travellers through Egypt, and not dwellers there." The wind continued contrary all that day and the next. The sailors exerted themselves in towing the vessel, while the family often stepped on shore, and took a pleasant walk by the banks of the river. The time passed very agreeably, for all were fully employed. Sometimes Mr. Dalton or Charles would read aloud, while Emily and her mamma amused themselves by drawing, or the young people translated a few pages of Italian, or wrote an exercise, or continued the journals they had beg-un when they left home. The progress of the vessel was, however, very slow, and at the end of the third day they were not thirty miles from Cairo. At that rate, it would take them more than two months to reach the first cataract. Daireh frequently came to the door of the cabin to point out some object of interest, and would, if encouraged, entertain them with some story of his early life, so that the hours flew swiftly by. There was a curious mixture of sound sense and childish superstition in this man. Our travellers passed by a Copt convent, situated on the banks of the river, which gave him occasion to remark, that the Copts had the power of writing charms, which preserved life, if carried about the person. So potent were they that it was not possible to kill even a sheep, or other 60 COPT CHARMS. animal, if one were tied round its neck, Mehemet Ali wore one, so that all attempts to assassinate him had been unsuccessful. Ibrahim Pasha was similarly protected, and although after a battle, bullets that had struck him would be found in the folds of his sash, yet he always escaped unhurt. Mr. Dalton smiled at his credulity. " You do not, sir, believe in charms?" said Daireh. "Most assuredly not," replied his master, "And yet, sir, I once saw a man whom nobody could kill, till they found out the charm he wore, and took it away." "Indeed! and when was that 1" He related that he was very young, when some Arnaout soldiers, stationed at his native village, mutinied, and shot their colonel. Twelve of them were subsequently executed. They were brought out, made to kneel down in a row, and the head of each was cut off by a single blow of a heavy sword. Eleven had fallen, but when the executioner struck at the last, his sword rebounded. He tried again, with a similar result. Several soldiers were then called to his aid, but although they succeeded in wounding the man most severely, they could not take his life. At last a charm was found concealed in a small leather bag under one of his arms; it was removed, and with the next blow, his head fell from his shoulders, " That was a remarkable circumstance," observed Mr. Dalton; " and you really saw it yourself '?" " No, sir," replied he, "I did not actually see it, for the crowd was too great; but I was there, and heard the account from many people who did." " Well," said his master, " I must still doubt the value of charms, and I recommend you to do so too, till you actually witness a similar ISLANDS ON THE NILE. 61 proof of their efficacy with your own eyes." Daireh's faith was not easily disturbed, and he mentioned that one of his masters, an Englishman, not only believed in charms, but had promised to write one for him, which would be of equal use. He left Egypt suddenly, however, without keeping his word. We need not tell our young readers that this gentleman amused himself by imposing on the Arab's credulity. In the evening a wind, slight but favourable, sprung up, and the huge sails were unfurled. The vessel continued her course all night, and at nine the next morning it passed the first town on the river, Beni- Souef. The family enjoyed the equal and pleasant motion of the boat, while the sailors seemed to be much pleased by an intermission in their arduous task of towing. Scarcely was their breakfast finished before they commenced a rude and singular dance, chanting a Nubian song at the same time. It was accompanied by the monotonous sound of a primitive drum, made by stretching a piece of sheep's skin over an earthen jar. The Arabs have very little ear for music. Their melodies consist of a few simple notes often repeated, and they seem to be unable to enjoy any more complicated composition. Our travellers now passed one of the islands with which the Nile abounds. The bed of the river is constantly changing, so as greatly to increase the difficulty of navigation when the water is low. A large sand-bank is formed by the current, which receives continual additions by the drifting down of the soil; at last it appears above the surface of the water. It rises in height after every overflow of the Nile, and in the course of a few years it is fit for 62 EAFTS OF CROCKERY. cultivation. Any one may take possession of the new land, and for some time he is not obliged to pay any tax. While in this way very large additions are made to the fertile soil of Egypt, the river is not less busy in reducing its extent. The Daltons frequently saw large masses of earth, undermined by the current, fall into the water, sometimes carrying with them patches of wheat nearly ready for the sickle. To-day several rafts, very slightly made, but heavily laden with earthen jars, floated by. They had come from Keneh, a town nearly four hundred miles distant from Cairo. The simplicity but inge- nuity of their construction is remarkable. A few beams of the trunk of the Palm, split in four, are fastened together by roots of Haifa.* A space is left between each, in which are placed the first layer of jars, bottom upwards. So laid, the water is excluded by the air they contain, and a sufficient support is given to several layers piled above them. Four or five men accompany the raft, which drops quietly down the river to its destination. An accident happened to one just before it passed, and thirty or forty jars fell into the water. Charles and Emily * The Haifa is a very destructive weed, peculiar to Egypt. Wherever the cultivation of the land is neglected, it is sure to spring up. The roots strike downward, sometimes to a depth of thirty feet. When once it takes possession of the ground, it is almost impossible to eradicate it ; for in the roots, which are not unlike thin canes, there is a joint to every iuch, which will shoot out into a new plant, if the upper part is cut away. The Haifa, however, has its ixse. The leaves, which look like very coarse gi-ass, are woven into cordage, used as a litter for cattle, and made into mats ; while the roots, softened by water, are applied to many purposes. They form a rope much stronger than one of hemp of the same diameter. THE PALJI TREE. 63 were much amused by seeing some of the men throw themselves into the stream and swim after them. An Arab is as much at home in the water as on land, and the stragglers were speedily restored to their jilaces. We have as yet said nothing of the Palm tree, of which however, our friends had already seen many thousands, and had not ceased to regard it with great interest. In Upper Egypt, scarcely any trees except the palm and the gum acacia are to be found. The latter looks like the white-thorn of England, and from it the useful drug, gum-arabic, plentifully exudes. Our readers are doubtless well acquainted with the appearance of the Palm tree, by prints and drawings, but to appreciate its grace and beauty they should see it fringing the side of the Nile, or waving its graceful tops in the wind, around an Egyptian village; and to form a proper estimate of its value, they should hear an Arab dilate on its excellence. A village and a plantation of palm trees are inseparable companions. A man's wealth is frequently estimated by the number he possesses; and when Daireh talked of his father's prosperity, he told how many palms he once had; nor did he forget to say that, amid the general wreck of his family, he was still the owner of four. One of the principal sources of the Pasha's revenue is a tax of three piastres on each tree. Its luscious fruit is greedily eaten by the people while fresh; and, when dried, it forms no small proportion of their food for the rest of the year. From the leaves are woven mats, baskets, &c. Stripped into small fibres, brushes of all kinds are made, more especially a long whisk which, during the summer, is scarcely ever out of the 64 THE GOULAH. people's hands, to drive away the clouds of flies. The firm and strong stalks of the leaves are dried and made into kafasses, bedsteads, seats, and lattice work. They are from ten to fifteen feet long, and are also used as an effectual fence for enclosures. The tree is tapped, and a liquid flows from it, out of which Arrack is distilled, while the fibrous trunk is almost the only timber employed for building purposes. It does not bear fruit till about twenty years old. The leaves are cut off" close to the trunk year after year, and the dates grow in large bunches hanging among the new leaves. The natives with naked feet climb up the long taper trunk to gather the produce. To be able to ascend a palm tree quickly, and to swim well, are two accomplishments which every Fellah* possesses. The jars to which we have referred must not pass unnoticed. They are all more or less porous, till after long use they become water-tight. They are made of a kind of grey earth, and being extremely thin, are very brittle, so that the consumption is enormous, but at the same time they are very cheap. Eight Goulahs,t holding more than a quart each, may be bought at Keneh for a piastre. Their being porous might appear to be a serious drawback on their value, but the Egyptian has rarely any more costly liquid than water in his possession; and as the pores cause evaporation, it keeps it de- lightfully cool. The travellers used to think that * Fellah is the term applied to the peasants, small holders of land, aud all cultivators of the soil. + A Goulah is a vase with a narrow neck ; it is used for all the purposes to which earthenware jugs in England are applied. A CHASE. 65 there were few more pleasant beverages than the delicious water of the Nile, well filtered and cooled by the goulah. All the water used during their voyage was purified by passing through a very large jar of the same clay, which held many pailfuls. The following day, Daireh discerned a vessel in the distance; it carried a flag, and therefore he knew that it must belong to Frank travellers. The news was conveyed to the cabin, and books and work were laid aside to look after the strange sail. Charles and Emily hurried to the fore part of the vessel, with a spy-glass which their father had given them. They soon returned to say that the flag was American, and to add with great glee, that "the Home," for so they had named their boat, was rapidly gaining upon the other vessel. This was a triumph which dispelled at once the disappointment they had felt from the slow progress during the last few days. Mr. Dalton took up the glass, and confirmed the truth of their report; but as he thought that some hours must elapse before they could overtake the other boat, he proposed that they should resume their studies. Their mother, however, soon saw that the voung folks were thinkinjr much more of the race than of their lesson; so it was agreed that the latter should be deferred till after dinner. Charles and his sister admired the wisdom of the arrangement, and, while their parents took up a book, they busied themselves in frequently reporting progress. The -wind freshened, and "the Home" went at a great rate — faster, indeed, than Mrs. Dalton liked; she was rather alarmed to discover that it now lurched so much, that one side of the deck was almost level with the water. Daireh assured her tliat F 66 A CHASE. there was no danger, but neither at this time nor afterwards could she get completely reconciled to the oft repeated cry of " arless, arless,"* by the steersman. Charles, on the contrary, thought it excellent fun, while Emily stood on neutral ground. She agreed with her brother, that it was very pleasant to go so fast, and with her mamma wished that the vessel would keep more upright. Mr. Dalton found that he had not made provision for this unexpected position of the boat: the contents of the shelves speedily changed their places, while Marshall, who had been engaged at work, thinking of the strange fate which had taken her from a quiet country town, to travel among ' black -a-moors,' and wondering whether she should ever see her father and mother again, had her reverie interrupted by the neat order of Emily's cabin being equally disturbed. Mr. Dalton had discovered that his boat, although very commodious, was almost too large to make much way by towing. It was, however, some consolation to find that she was an excellent sailer. She carried such an extent of canvas as to beat every competitor during a fair wind, and consequently, the whole voyage was performed in average time. Within two hours after discovering the American boat, they had so nearly approached as plainly to see its passengers; they were two gentlemen from Boston, one a clergy- man, whom they had met first at Alexandria, and * When tliere is mucli wind, the ropes which confine the sails are held by the sailors, ready to be let loose at a moment's warning. The word ' arless,' which means ' take care,' or ' be on your guard,' is used by the steersman, to keep them on the alert in any critical moment. KUN AGROUND. 67 afterwards at Cairo, and with whom they had had much pleasant and friendly intercourse. They had started thirty hours before our travellers, and when overtaken, their dragoman looked rather disconcerted at the rapid progress of the rival boat. " The Home" sailed close to the other vessel; a friendly greeting passed between the two parties, and shortly after, our travellers were a mile a-head. Charles had become greatly excited by what he called the chase, and had he not been restrained by his father, would have triumphed over his friends without ceremony. His boasting was, however, brought to an abrupt close, the reis and crew were too much employed in increasing the speed to notice that appearance on the surface of the Nile which denotes a shallow. While the boat was going at a very rapid rate, a grating noise was heard, and in a moment she stuck fast on a sand bank. Their friends passed by in a few minutes; it was now their turn to laugh, but they were too well bred to follow Charles's example. Mrs. Dalton did not lose the opportunity of giving her children a useful lesson. She reminded them that the race is not always to the swift, and that those who could not conduct themselves meekly in pros- perity, were in great danger of wanting the sympathy of others when in adversity. Two hours elapsed before their vessel was once more afloat. In the meantime, the other was lost in the distance. The family had to retire into the cabin, while the whole crew jumped into the water and heaved the boat off by main strength. Running aground was a common occurrence in their after voyage; it happened, perhaps, a dozen times; and F 2 68 MURDER OF SHEIKH SALAH. singularly enough, some days after, having just passed their friends under similar circumstances, they again stuck so fast as to be obliged to send to a village for assistance. One of the gentlemen plea- santly observed as he sailed by, " When I see you, Mr. Dalton, I see ' a friend in neecV " While waiting at dinner, Daireh gave them an account of a murder which had lately taken place almost under his own eye. The Rev. George Fisk, in his very interesting "Pastor's Memorial of the Holy Land," relates that a Bedouin Sheikh,* named Suleiman, who had engaged to take him from Cairo to Jerusalem, by way of Mount Sinai and Akabar, was shot by some members of the Mezzeni tribe, soon after he ]3assed Mount Sinai. There had been a dispute between the two tribes, each claiming the profitable privilege of escorting travellers through that part of the desert, and Suleiman refusing to give up what he contended to be his right, the other party took this terrible revenge. The event happened in 1842, and more than three years had since elapsed. Daireh had accompanied a traveller to the Isthmus of Suez, and was returning to Cairo with a Bedouin he had employed, of the same tribe as Suleiman, named Hassan Fernoos. When within three hours of Cairo, they met Sheikh Salah, who was of the Mezzeni tribe. He Avas known to have taken an active part in the death of Suleiman, and was thought to have fired the shot which killed him. * Sheikh, ov governor, is the title borne by the chief of a Bedouin tribe. It is now appropriated by many who have no claim to it, and the leader of any party of Arabs is generally so styled. MURDER OF SHEIKH SALAH. 69 Hassan Fernoos happened to be carrpng Daireh's sword, and no sooner did he see his enemy, than he flew at him with the utmost fury; Daireh interfered immediately, and with much difficulty j^revented bloodshed. The combatants parted, each muttering threats of vengeance. Within an hour Daireh was travelling alone; Hassan Fernoos had left him un- awares, and the next morning Salah was found in the desert shot through the body. Not long after, Daireh met his Bedouin companion near the tomb of the Caliph, and learnt from his own lips that he had followed his enemy, and, concealing himself behind a ruined wall, had fired at him as he passed. He did not venture to enter Cairo for a few weeks, but seemed to entertain no fear of punishment from the government when the affair had blown over. After Mr. Dalton's return from Upper Egypt, he was passing along the gallery in the hotel, and looking do^Ti, he saw Daireh talking in the court-yard to a fine-looking Bedouin, of a mild and pleasant expres- sion of countenance: "This is the man who shot Sheikh Salah," said he, with as much composure as if he were introducing a friend, and continued, " He wants to know, sir, whether you mean to go to Jerusalem by Mount Sinai?" "I should not think of employing that man if I did," replied his master. The quiet and unconcerned demeanour of both men strikingly evidenced how little regard to human life is paid in the East. There was much talking among the crew to-day, and the words Khowaga* and Backsheesh frequently * Khowaga is the Arabic for raaster, or gentleman. 70 BACKSHEESH. occurred; at last, Daireli came and said that the sailors were anxious to have some present made to them. Mr. Dalton observed that it was too soon to begin talking of Backsheesh, and that he was already quite tired of the word; he wished if they behaved well to make them contented, but he should not like to be often teased in this way. It was then settled that each man was to receive a piastre when the boat arriv,ed at any of the seven chief towns in going up the river, and the same as they returned. This arrangement gave great satisfaction, and the sailors seldom troubled him afterwards. Now and then one of them would draw his finger across his throat and say " Baa," thus significantly announcing that a sheep would be very acceptable, but it was done more in joke than as a request. Daireh knew full well how much English travellers were annoyed by applications for Backsheesh. He said that one of his masters so disliked the word, that no sooner was it uttered by an applicant than he seemed to lose all command of himself, and ran after the man with uplifted stick. Next day was Sunday, and the vessel was moored to the shore. The crew heard with great pleasure that one day in seven should be considered a day of rest, and unless the wind was favourable, the boat would not proceed on her voyage. The repose of the family was broken-in upon before day-break by their noisy rejoicings on the occasion. They had made a fire on shore, and were dancing round it in a grotesque way, singing most lustily. In the evening, the family took a quiet walk, attended by Daireh, and followed by two of the sailors, armed with long clubs. This body-guard was chiefly required to repel the SWIMMING MONKS. 71 large and fierce dogs which abound near every village. The loud barking of these animals at night is inces- sant, and it was long before our travellers got accustomed to it. Not unfrequently, also, they were disturbed by the wild cries of herds of jackals, prowling about after their prey. On Monday they again overtook the boat of their American friends, and soon after passed a remarkable range of rocks, called Gebel-el-teir, (rock of the birds,) from the number of birds which make their nests in the crevices of the precipice. On the summit they noticed a building, which Daireh said was a convent. Before they went by it, two men descended from the heights with amazing rapidity, and swam towards the boat, crying out, "Christiano, Christiano! Caritas, caritas!" They were monks, deputed to collect in this singular way anything for the convent the traveller may please to bestow. If money is given, they put it into their mouth; and anything more bulky they dexterously hold in their hands as they swim back. The travellers were now advancing to a warmer region, and noticed many sugar plantations. The canes were being gathered, stripped of their leaves, and laid into heaps, ready to carry to the crushing- mill. All they saw were the property of the Pasha. "We have more than once mentioned the proprietors of land in Egypt, but strictly speaking, there is but one, and that is the all-powerful and all-engrossing Mehemet Ali, By a late edict, he has appropriated the whole country to himself, so that Egj'pt is now as much the property of its ruler as it became after the great famine in the time of Joseph.* The people * Genesis, xlvii. 13—20. (2 HERD OF BUFFALOES. have not, however, been turned out of tlieir possessions, except where it has pleased the Pasha to take the land under his own care. In that case, the Fellah is not permitted to seek some other residence, but must remain as a labourer in the Pasha's service. Mehemet Ali is not content, as Pharaoh was, with a fifth of the produce; he takes the lion's share. If a Fellah lets any portion of the land which he is permitted to retain, he will get, it may be, seventy piastres rent for a portion equal to an acre, of which nearly two- thirds goes to the government in taxes. Nothing can exceed the apparent poverty of the people. Their dress is mean, their food of the coarsest kind, and their habitations not much better than the hovels of the Alexandrian suburbs. If a man scrapes a little money together, he carefully conceals his wealth, lest he should become a prey to the cupidity of the Pasha's officers: he cannot employ it in any profitable way, as the laws of the prophet forbid the lending money on usury. Egypt is indeed the most fruitful country in the world; but although the con- dition of the people has in some respects been ameliorated of late years, yet misgovernment and oppression are still so great, that poverty and misery everywhere abound. Charles and Emily were much amused by seeing a herd of bufialoes cross the Nile. They plunged in with eagerness, and swam in a line, nothing being seen but their small black heads, with pointed nose and keen eyes, and the hump on their shaggy backs. These creatures are so fond of the water as to be nearly amphibious. During the hot days of summer, they spend hours in the Nile, and thus escape the TOWING THE BOAT. 76 attack of innumerable swarms of flies. The herd was followed by a lad who had them in charge. He placed himself astride on a bundle of stalks of Indian corn lying on shore, and with a long pole, flattened at each end so as to form a double paddle, he quickly moved along. Horned cattle are now very scarce in Egypt; a frightful murrain carried oJ0F more than three hundred thousand a few years ago, and, till lately, the killing of any for food was prohibited. The poor camel, altogether unfitted for draught, was obliged to take their place, and may yet be seen turning the wheels of water-mills, or harnessed to the plough. The buflalo is highly valued by the natives, who hold its milk and butter in great esteem, but neither were very palatable to our travellers. It is not rare to see a man or woman riding on one of these animals, and Daireh said that he had often crossed the river by laying hold of a buffalo's tail. The Nile ordinarily flows in a gentle equable and straio'ht current, throuofh its noble bed, but in some parts it makes a bend, or contracts in its width. The sailors had their strength pretty well taxed in towing the boat, when no particular obstacle to its progress existed. Eight or ten attached themselves to a long rope by a strap passing over one shoulder, and paced along the bank at the rate of two miles an hour. But if the wind was against them, or the current strong, they were not unfrequently brought to a stand. To-day, in trying to pass a jutting point of land, the rope was broken, and away went the vessel down the river. It descended, of course, at the same rate as the current; the helm was therefore useless, and it went more than a mile before the 74 A HARD PULL. sailors could bring it to tlie bank, by swimming on board, and carrying another rope to the shore. The Daltons now left the boat, and walking slowly by its side, they watched the progress of the men. They had resumed their task, employing a longer and stronger rope. When they came to the difficult part, they were brought to a stand, and the day's voyage seemed to be at a close. " Now's the time to make yourself useful, Charles," said his father, and, seizing the rope, they began to pull lustily. Mrs. Dalton and Emily thought that every little assistance would be serviceable, so, calling Marshall to help, they followed the example. The dragoman and cook also jumped on shore, and added their strength. For a few minutes it was doubtful whether the current or the combined forces would gain the victory, and much apprehension was felt for the tenacity of the rope; but at last, by " a long pull, and a strong pull, and a pull altogether," they had the pleasure of seeing the " Home" float into quiet water. Three hours were spent in attaining their object; but little incidents of this nature broke in very agreeably on the monotony of the voyage. While we use the word monotony, we must not be supposed to imply that any member of the family felt the time pass tediously. Quite the contrary; all were fully employed in reading, writing, or at work, and often they found the day too short. There was also much to observe, and the interruptions of the lessons of the young people were sometimes more frequent than were desirable. Their parents desired, however, that they should not pass by anything worthy of notice, and encouraged Daireh to draw their attention PERILS OF GLUTTONY. 75 to every interesting object. He was very willing to comply with their wishes, and constantly kept a sharp look-out. The sailors, too, were much amused by the eager curiosity of Charles and Emily, and often pointed out something they were pleased to see. Sometimes a dead cow might be seen lying on a sand-bank, surrounded by a flock of enormous vultures, so gorged with food as to be unable to fly away when Mustapha sent a bullet among them. One vulture they sailed by was in a curious predica- ment. He had perched on the carcase of a donkey, floating down the river, and had so glutted himself that he was unable to leave his little island. When he came near the vessel, he was fired at without being- struck. Charles laughed to see him clapping his wings, but not able to raise his over-stuffed body. It was a striking example of the danger of an undue indulgence of appetite. Sometimes they passed by a santon's* tomb, built on an eminence, and frequented as a place of prayer, where a mosque was not near at hand. Daireh had often a wonderful legend to tell of the holy man in whose honour it was erected. The claims to sanctity of the santons not unfrequently rested on a very slight basis. One lived for twenty years in a hole in a rock hanging over the river, which he had never quitted. He was supported by the boatmen, who rarely failed to steer close by his solitary abode to throw him some food, trusting to the efficacy of his prayers for their future safety. The cunning fellow had chosen a spot where the navigation was * Santon is the name given to a Maliomedau saint. 76 THE ROBBER-SANTON. dangerous, and safely relied on tlieir superstitious fears. Another, who during his lifetime had never attracted any notice, appeared, night after night, in the dreams of a rich neighbour, and gave him no rest until he was honoured with a tomb. Another put in a still more questionable claim to reverence. He had been a notorious robber, and, towards the close of his life, confessed his many crimes to a Mollah, or priest. Among innumerable enormities, he owned to the commission of thirty-nine murders. Having dis- burdened himself, he inquired what chance he had of ever reaching Paradise? The Mollah, we may well suppose, had his private opinion on the subject, but did not dare to tell the formidable penitent all he thought. He considered it best to temporize, and advised the man to plant a dry stick upright, in a neighbouring burial-ground, and watch by it all night. If in the morning it had shot forth into vegetation, there could be no doubt of his salvation. The robber did as he was told; and at midnight, while employed in watching, he discovered a man engaged in rifling the ornaments from a female lately interred, whose grave he had opened. Moved with indignation at the sacrilege, he killed the spoiler, and buried him on the spot. By this virtuous act he atoned for all his former trangressions; the stick sprouted out most luxuriantly, and dying shortly after, he was added to the long list of santons. This is of course a remarkable case. Most santons are so regarded from having led a solitary life, wholly dependent for support on the charity of the faithful, and scrupulously adhering to the ceremonial obser- VISIT TO THE SUGAR-MILL. 77 vances of Mahomedamsm. It did not appear that any had ever been distinguished by usefulness or benevolence, or for any active efforts in the cause of religion. The boat had now reached Mellaws, a large village in which the sugar works of the Pasha are carried on. Wliile a sailor was sent for a supply of bread, eggs and vegetables, the family visited the factory. Camels and donkeys were bringing in the canes from all quarters, and many labourers were carrying them into the crushing mill; it contained three pair of iron rollers, turned by a steam-engine; the canes were successively passed through each, and at last left in an almost dry state, while the juice flowed plenteously into a pipe, which conveyed it to the boiling-houses. The engine was under the charge of two Scotchmen, who had been employed for three years, but whose appearance and conversation proved pretty clearly that they did not lead a very agreeable life. Our travellers wondered, how any hope of pecunairy reward, could induce intelligent men to banish them- selves from all that tends to cheer life, to dwell alone among the miserable inhabitants of Egypt. They were next taken to the boiling-house, where the juice, passing through several large coppers, is gTadually cleansed from its impurity, and brought to the necessary degree of consistency; it is then placed in earthen pots and left to crystallize. The treacle which drains from the pots is diluted, fermented, and distilled into an ardent spirit. The sugar looked very coarse, and cannot be thoroughly refined, for the religion of the country forbids the use of blood 78 INVITATION TO DINNER, for the purpose, as employed in Europe; the white of eggs is substituted, which is more expensive, and not equally efficacious. While the family were examining the interesting process, an Arab gentleman, handsomely dressed, made his appearance, and entered into conversation, Daireh acting as interpreter. He introduced himself as governor of the village; and asked many questions. The youth of Charles and Emily seemed to surprise him, and he expressed his wonder that they had courage to travel so far. He then gave the whole party a pressing invitation to dine with him. Mr. Dalton would have accepted his proposal, had he not known, that while he could converse with his host by means of his dragoman, Mrs. Dalton and Emily would have found themselves awkwardly placed in the company of the governors wives, without being able to say a word they could under- stand. After acknowledging his kindness, a few coloured prints were offered to him; they were thankfully accepted, and Daireh said that probably they would furnish amusement in the harem for some days. After leaving Mellaws, the wind freshened, and the boat went merrily onwards. The long desire of Charles and Emily to see a crocodile in its native river was gratified in the course of the afternoon. The family had scarcely sat down to dinner, before one of the sailors ran to the door of the cabin, crying out "Timsach, timsach!"* Up jumped the young people, followed by their parents; on going forward, * The Arabic uame for crocodile. CROCODILES IN THE NILE. 79 they saw what appeared to be three trunks of trees, lying on a sand-bank, fully a mile a-head. Mustapha, who was an excellent shot, was busily loading his gun, while all the sailors pointed to the distant objects, repeating the cry of " Timsach." Charles's excellent glass was brought into requisition, and in a short time the crocodiles were plainly discerned; they were basking in the sun, and apparently asleep. The largest could not be less than twelve feet long. Before the boat could get within gunshot, they seemed to become aware of its approach, and quietly glided into the water. This was a disappointment, but Cliarles was consoled by hearing that they were now fifty miles above Minyeh, the lowest part of the Nile that crocodiles frequent, and that scarcely a day would now pass without his seeing some. Mustapha had been so much engaged in preparing to have a shot at the creatures, that it was not till they disappeared, that he woke up to the fact that the excellent dinner he had sent to table was getting cold; he was too much an enthusiast in his art to suffer his preparations to be treated with, neglect, and his master was amused by the anxiety he showed to see him again placed at the table. From this time, "a covey of crocodiles" was a frequent sight. Once, as many as sixteen, some of them very large, were discovered on a bank. It was not often that they allowed the vessel to approach near enough to afford the opportunity of a good shot; but now and then they gave Mustapha a chance; he was always on the alert, and most desirous to kill one. The young people felt quite as anxious, and pleased themselves with the notion of ha\ing it 80 CROCODILES IN THE NILE. stuffed and sent to England. The sailors, too, were much interested in Mustapha's success; they looked forward to some hearty meals on the flesh, which is considered a great delicacy among the Arabs. In the course of the voyage, several were struck by the bullets, which their hard skin easily rejDelled. Two were wounded, one severely, for it with difficulty crawled into the river; but none were killed. They doubtless have all the tenacity of life possessed by reptiles, and as on any attack, or even alarm, they seek the water, there appears to be no chance of securing one unless it is Avounded in a vital part, and dies immediately, which rarely happens. The people near the Nile hold them in some dread, but assert that they never attack a man while swimming in deep water, but w^atch the opportunity when he stands up and is walking to the shore, to seize him by the leg and draw him under. In this way a boy about twelve years old was killed during our travellers' voyage. Dreading a similar fate, one of the sailors excused himself from wading after a wild goose that Mustapha shot. His refusal gave the cook great offence; he was sharply rebuked for his laziness and cowardice, but acted very wisely in not venturing in. Every traveller up the Nile thinks it his bounden duty to try and shoot a crocodile, but not one in a hundred is successful. The American gentlemen were fortunate, however. They had brought mth them that formidable weapon, an American rifle, and, returning down the river, Mr. Pilgrim killed one more than ten feet long. It was struck in a soft part of the skin under the fore-leg, and probably the A RARE SHOT. 81 shot entered the heart, for it died immediately. With the same rifle, he also killed two geese out of a large flock standing over the river. The bullet passed right through one and brought down the second. It is not often that two birds are killed with one stone. Our travellers were not able to find, or purchase, a crocodile's egg. They are artfully concealed, and left to hatch at some distance below the surface of the sand, and are very rarely discovered. Before we dismiss these singular reptiles, we must allude to a very remarkable circumstance connected with them. Had not our friends confirmed its truth by repeated observation, we would not bring it under the notice of our readers. A bird, by no means rare on the Nile, seems to act as a sentinel while the crocodile sleeps, and gives it warning of the approach of danger. The natives say also, that it is accustomed to get into the creature's mouth, and feed on a small leech, which fastens itself under the tongue, and gives it great annoyance. Herodotus, in his account of the crocodile, makes the same statement, and gives the name of Trochilus to the bird; we believe that the fact is doubted by modern naturalists. It is, however, quite certain that the huge reptiles are very rarely seen sleeping on shore, Avithout one of the birds being close at hand. They make considerable noise whenever any one comes near, and do not fly away till their charge is safe under water. Once, the Daltons managed to draw very near to three crocodiles; they were fired at A\^thout being struck, and two dis- appeared immediately. The third was so sound asleep as not to be disturbed. They then plainly saw the bird hop close to its head, and heard it makt> Q bZ MAHOMEDAN DEVOTION. such a vigorous chirping, that he woke his friend, who was quickly out of sight. His little attendant, having accomplished his object, flew away directly. The young people had begun to make the acquaint- ance of the sailors, and to notice their peculiarities. Some of them were exact in their observance of the Mahomedan ritual, and at the appointed hours would go through their prayers with much gravity and apparent devotion. Wlienever the name of Allah (God) occurred, they fell on their knees, and bowed their foreheads to the deck or ground. A small patch of dust was often left on their face, which they were rather anxious to leave undisturbed. There was no effort on their part to elude observation; they rather seemed to like it, but evidently made no parade of sanctity. Mrs. Dalton compared their open profes- sion, in this respect, with the practice of her own countrymen, who too often seem ashamed to let it be known that they are Christians, and who carefully draw down their blinds during family prayer, as if they were about to do something wrong. She did not forget that we are told to pray to our Father in secret, but she felt that it would be well, if those under the influence of religion, would let their light be seen a little more clearly by their fellow men. She noticed, also, how completely the Mussulman appears to be absorbed in his devotion. Frequently, while one sailor was engaged in prayer, the others were laughing, talking, or singing, close at hand, but he remained deaf and blind to all that was passing. One tall and fine looking man, named Abdallah, who was black as ebony, but quite free from the Negro cast of countenance, was peculiarly regular in his KATTERHAIRACK, 83 prayers, nor did he omit to wasli hands, face and feet, over the side of the vessel, before he began. He was one of the steadiest and most industrious of the crew. Emily sketched the portraits of one or two, very much to their satisfaction. She speedily was applied to by the rest, who gravely squatted down on the deck, one at a time, for the purpose. A merry fellow, whom Charles called Katterhairack, was a great favourite with our travellers. He continually amused the young people in some way or other, and often gave significant hints that he wanted to be taken into their service and go to England. He had extravagant notions of the wealth and pleasure to be found there, and would, in pantomime, repre- sent himself as dismissing his own mean clothing, and adopting Daireh's picturesque costume. He acquired his name, which in Arabic means "thank you," by using that expression, when receiving any little favour. Mrs. Dalton had noticed that the Arabs on such occasions merely said Ty-ib (very well, or good). It was even all that could be extracted from a half-starved beggar, by a liberal donation; and when the sailors received their first portion of backsheesh with no more expressive acknowledgment, she tried through the dragoman to teach them better manners, but her lessons were thrown away on all but Katterhairack. Another of the sailors, called Sherreef, made them laugh by his good humoured display of his proficiency as a linguist. He had picked up one Italian word, and learnt to pronounce the name of the family. Wlienever the vessel made more way than usual, he was sure to come forward with o2 84 NUBIAN SAILORS. " Buono, Mr. Dalton, Ty-ib, Ty-ib." Mustapha had selected anotber, named Saleem, as bis assistant, in washing kettles, plates, dishes, &c. Of course, be came in for a share of the good things which left the dinner table, and the family were amused by seeing how quickly he widened out, under the genial influence of animal food, to which be was so little accustomed. Before the voyage was over, be became quite a portly personage. Another, who bad a girlish expression of face, Charles called Molly. He was the youngest, and acted as cook to the sailors. He did not fail to take advantage of bis office, for he might be seen constantly cowering over the great iron pot, nor did he neglect to dip his finger and thumb pretty frequently into it. The contents were tasted many times, before be could satisfy himself that they were fit to set before the crew. The last we shall now mention was the reis, a grey beaded, and highly irascible old man. In general he spent his time in that state of repose and apathy an Arab so much loves. But if anything went wrong, be jumped up, and stormed away most lustil}^ No sooner, however, were matters adjusted, than he sunk down once more into torpidity. Soon after leaving Cairo, he caught a severe cold: Mr. Dalton gave him some medicine, and directed that he should have a basin of soup in the morning, and some tea at night. Whatever good might have been done by the former part of the prescription, it seemed to be strangely neutralized by the latter, for nearly a fortnight elapsed before the reis could feel that he was thoroughly recovered. . The passion for medicine among the people of the A HOT DOSE. 85 East is remarkable. No sooner was it known that there was a medicine chest on board, than almost all the sailors found out that they were not quite well. Every Englishman is thought to be an accom- plished physician and able surgeon, and the faith in his remedies is unbounded. Mr. Dalton had great success in his practice, the man being always much better the day after he had been dosed. It must be confessed, that he treated his patients somewhat at hap-hazard, but he took care that what he adminis- tered should not do harm, if it did no good. One young sailor, named Ali, applied for some physic to Daireh, who, knowing that there was nothing the matter with him, prepared a spoonful of mustard, and at once popped it into All's open mouth. The poor fellow was hanging over the side of the boat for an hour after. It worked wonders, and nothing more was heard of his ailments during the rest of the voyage. No traveller up the Nile should omit taking with him two or three quart bottles of a preparation of nitrate of silver in rose water. It is very efficacious in cases of ophthalmia, a malady which fearfully prevails, and he ^vill have numerous applications from the poor villagers on the banks, who are suffering from that complaint. While many of the sailors were regular in their devotion, it was noticed that Daireh and Mustapha were never engaged in prayer. They both prided themselves on being good Mussulmen, but gave a singular reason for the omission. They were obliged to come in contact with ham and lard, which formed part of the provisions, and were thereby rendered unclean, and not fit to pray. Neither would touch 86 DINING OUT. wine on any account, but Mustapha sometimes asked for a bottle of arrack. Daireh had the prudence to be a " tee-totaller," from having seen many servants, attendants on Europeans, acquire a habit of intem- perance. They both were very careful not to waste a crumb of bread, accounting it a sin. The Koran expressly forbids it; but they had no such scruples about any other kind of food. A fortnight had now elapsed since the boat left Cairo, and it had accomplished more than three hundred miles of the voyage. A second Sunday had passed, during which the vessel was moored close to the Americans; and after attending divine service, per- formed in their cabin by Mr. Pilgrim, they accepted his invitation to dinner. Mustapha had been engaged, the previous day, in concocting a noble plum pudding for the family, and looked rather blank on learning that they would not be in " the Home" to eat it. Matters were happily arranged, by their friends kindly permitting it to form part of the repast, so Mustapha had the pleasure of showing his skill to a more extended circle. It was not an English plum pudding after all, but still very good, and an excel- lent substitute. In the evening the wind rose, our travellers returned to their own vessel, and the sails were hoisted. As usual, they were soon far ahead, to be again overtaken when towing became necessary. They had, by this time, become quite familiar with the Nile and its peculiar features. The broad gentle stream rolled leisurely along, with here and there one of the large country boats on its surface, either slowly towed by a long string of Arabs, or ascend- ing the river with a favourable wind, its great white THE SHADOOF. 87 latteen sails giving it the appearance of an enormous bird, when seen in the distance. Numerous villages lined the banks, half hidden in groups of palm trees. Near them might be seen a group of naked children, paddling in the water, or a number of women, with well- veiled faces, either filling their jars, or seizing the opportunity to have a little gossip. Sometimes a fisherman, laying down his long line of hooks, would be passed, or two or three wild-looking Bedouins be noticed in the distance, mounted on camels, and skirting the edge of the desert, while the never-failing shadoof and creaking water-wheel gave life and animation to the scene. The shadoof is a very simple machine, and has been used for irrigating the land from the earliest times, with little or no change in its construction. Two posts, formed of the trunk of the palm or of dhoura-stalks, bound together, and plastered ^vith clay, are placed at a distance of six feet apart. They support a cross bar, to which is swung, by a rope made of the roots of the Haifa, a long pole, loaded at one end with a great lump of dried mud, and having at the other a kind of bucket of untanned skin, stretched on a hoop, and holding about five gallons. A little channel from the river fills a hole dug underneath. The labourer stands by the side, and pulling dowTi the bucket, adroitly fills it mth water. It requires but little effort to raise it, as it is nearly balanced by the weight at the other end. On reaching the proper height, it is upset into a trench, which conveys it to the proper quarter. As the water cannot be elevated in this way to a greater height than six or seven feet, it is necessary to 0(5 THE SHADOOF. employ two, three, and even four shadoofs, placed one above the other, Avith a reservoir between each, when the Nile becomes low. By this simple process, fields at a distance of two or three miles from the Nile, as well as those near at hand, are kept properly watered. The land is divided into square portions, with a low ridge between them, and a man is employed to open the little sluices by which the water enters. He does it very dexterously with his foot, and when the compartment is filled, it is closed, and he moves on to the next. The work goes on with little intermission from sunrise to sunset; but being very laborious, the men at the shadoof are changed, and do not labour more than six or seven hours a day. The bucket descends about twenty times a minute, and consequently lifts a hundred gallons in that time. There is another machine used for irrigation on the banks of the Nile. It is a very primitive affair, and is turned by cattle. A large wheel acts upon a number of buckets attached to a cord; they are filled as they descend, and turn over at the top into a channel which carries off the water. As it is formed wholly of wood, and no grease is employed to prevent friction, a peculiar creaking and melan- cholly noise is made, which is heard at a great dis- tance. It is kept at work day and night, but since the murrain among the cattle in Egypt, a few years ago, it is not often employed. The Daltons were surprised to see so many large flocks of birds of various kinds. There were pigeons innumerable; and in every village, one or more houses built for their use rose far above the low BIRDS OF EGYPT. 89 cottages, sometimes towering as liigli as the humble minaret. The birds seemed to be better lodged and better fed than their owners. As no one objected to their being shot except close at home, Mustai:)ha's gun did such execution, that more were killed than could be eaten by the family, and the sailors were often regaled. They would not touch them, however, unless their throats could be cut and the blood flowed before they died, so that one of the men always followed the sportsman to perform the cere- mony. So afraid are Mahomedans of eating " things strangled," that the servants would not taste some preserved meats sent from England, because they could not be satisfied that the animals had been properly slain. Immense flights of wild geese frequently passed by, sailing through the air in a wedge-like form, the oldest or strongest bird invariably leading the way. Wild storks were often seen feeding among the corn, while keeping a watchful look out against an enemy. Sometimes a large number of pelicans were standing motionless on an island, or myriads of wild ducks covered the shore. The beautiful snow-white Ibis, once an object of worship ^vith the Egyptian, was by no means rare. They are still held in much respect, and, never being molested, are exceedingly tame. One pretty bird, not much larger than a sparrow, constructed its singular nest by boring a hole on the banks, about a foot below the surface of the soil, and might be seen in myriads flying in and out. A day's heavy rain would have swamped their tiny abodes, but instinct had taught them that they had no need to dread " winter and 90 FISH m THE NILE. bad weather" in Upper Egypt. They must, how- ever, be migratory, as in a few months the overflow of the Nile would cover every bank with deep water. Many birds of gay plumage nestled among the palm trees; among them, the hoopoe, with a singTilar tuft of feathers on its head, was very common. There was also no want of the common magpie and sparrow, which abound every^vhere. Herons, and other water birds, with long necks and legs, stood fishing on the banks, while eagles, hawks, and vultures, soared high in the air, keenly searching after their prey. The quail, too, which covered the camp of the Israelites in the wilderness, when, not content Avith manna from heaven, they lusted after flesh, was often shot, and added a delicate dish to the travellers' table. Nor was there any want of fish, most of it of excellent quality. The variety was very great, but with no kind had the travellers been previously acquainted. A net to catch them is rarely used. The ordinary plan is to lay down a long line, to which some hundreds of hooks are attached at about two feet apart, which rarely fail to catch several. For four or five piastres, Mustapha used to buy sufficient for three or four good dishes, and to feast all the crew besides. The sailors were rude feeders, and their cookery would have horrified a French artist. Wliether the addition to their simple fare was a quarter of a sheep, a dozen pigeons, or a great fish, it was cut up into small pieces, and boiled with the never-failing bread, onions, and water, into a kind of hotch-potch. Then squatting round the great iron pot, they helped themselves with their ARAB REPAST. 91 fingers. The repast was decorously conducted, how- ever, and although some did eat a little faster than others, there was no greedy haste discernible. At night, they always went on shore for half an hour, and making a blazing but soon exhausted fire, of the stalks of Indian corn, diligently collected from the banks while towing, they warmed themselves for the night, gravely smoking their pipes the while. Tobacco is very cheap in Egypt. Mr. Dalton bought some of excellent quality at Cairo for sevenpence a pound, and a handful or two given to each of the men frequently cheered them during their toilsome labour. Smoking appears to be the only luxury within the reach of the common people. Wine and spirits they do not touch, and coffee, inexpensive as it is, they can seldom, if ever, afford. The pay of the sailors was sixty piastres a month; and as most of them had wives and families, they could have nothing to spare for superfluities out of five- pence a day. According to custom, it had been stipulated in the contract, that when the boat reached Girgeh, a day was to be allowed to the sailors, to bake a fresh supply of bread. Our travellers had now reached that town, and it happened unfortunately that the wind was very favourable. It was not pleasant to be detained, but there was no help for it. There was a good day's work before the men, for they had to buy the corn, to get it ground, to mix the dough, and finally to have it baked. But instead of setting to work betimes in the morning, they appeared to have forgotten their wants, and at noon they had done nothing. Mr. Dalton thought it right to inform 92 DELAY FOR BREAD. tliem, that as he had kept to the contract they must do so too, and at sunrise the next day the voyage must be resumed, whether they were ready or not, On hearing this they woke up to their position, and then seemed to find out for the first time that they had no money. A payment was at once made on account of the hire of the vessel, and after another hour had been wasted in dividing the sum the reis had received, they went off". By this foolish delay the greater part were unable to prepare their bread, and till the boat reached Assouan, were obliged to live on a preparation not much unlike, we suppose, the unleavened bread of the Israelites. About twice a week they made a thin and almost liquid paste of flour and water. It was poured on a hot plate of iron laid on wood embers, and, when baked on one side, it was turned over. In this way a kind of pancake was quickly produced, soft and tough, but which they eat with apparent relish. The mismanagement of the men on this occasion affords a good illustration of the Arab character. They can work with much energy, but never exert themselves till they are obliged. To squat down on the ground and do nothing is the very height of enjoy- ment, and they are willing to make almost any sacrifice for the sake of what the Italians call the " Dolce far niente."* Thus it rarely happened that any accident was prevented by timely effort. The vessel, for example, might be forced by the wind out of her course, but it was not till it struck against the bank, bringing sometimes a large quantity of earth on the * The sweet pleasure of doing nothing. A TOWN WASHED AWAY. 93 deck, that they rose into action. Then a great clamour ensued, and amidst a noise which often shook Mrs. Dalton's nerves, the mischief was remedied. Girgeh is built close to the water, and within the last half-dozen years, not less than a third of the town, including a large mosque, has been washed away by the current. No attempt has been made to prevent farther devastation, and it is evident that, before long, it will again be curtailed of its dimensions. The part of the town facing the river presents a singular aspect. In several instances half a house has fallen, and the remainder stands ready to follow with the next rise of the Nile. The travellers were told that a cotton factory outside the town was worth seeing, and they set out for the purpose. The wind was high, and they had not walked far before they Avere driven back by a cloud of dust, which nearly blinded them. It swept through the narrow streets in such density as to obscure every object a dozen yards ahead, while all the goods and pro\dsions displayed in the bazaar were covered by it. The people sat with their backs to the blast, and with muffled faces seemed to take it as a thing of course. Egypt is truly a land of dust. The light sandy soil, formed wholly of the deposit of the Nile, and quite free from stones, loosens into dust with the slightest pressure. All the footpaths are ankle deep in dust, and till recently, every town and village was fairly embedded in it. The Pasha has given orders that it shall be cleared away. It is like cleansing the Augean stable; the accumulation of centuries has to be removed. In some cases, the level of the streets has consequently been reduced two or three feet. All 94: PLENTY OF DUST. tlie inhabitants are obliged to assist in the useful work, and what they carry out is employed towards constructing a causeway of a higher level than the annual inundation, and leading to the next village. In England, it would have been purchased as excellent manure, but the extreme fertility of the soil renders it needless to employ any in Egyj^t. The people consider the edict of the Pasha as a very great burden; and it must be confessed that the work of removal is anything but pleasant. Sometimes the travellers saw a town almost hidden by the clouds of dust, raised by the poor labourers employed in clearing it, and it surprised them that they were able to breathe in such a choked atmosphere. Who can wonder that disease is prevalent in the Egyptian towns? nothing is cleared away. If a sheep or calf dies in the street, it is left till the canine scavengers devour it. Our travellers often noticed numerous bones of camels, cows, and horses lying near the houses. The dead animal had been dragged just outside the town or village, and there left to putrefy, or be torn piece- meal by the dogs and jackals. Once their boat was moored close to a place where the people were coming in numbers for water. Just under the bow they discovered a donkey lying partly in the stream, and rotting in the hot sun. The air was infected by it, and although a single vigorous push with the boat- hook sent it drifting down the river, none of the natives had cared to make this slight effort to get rid of so great a nuisance. In the evening the wind somewhat abated, and a pleasant walk was taken among some gardens near the boat. A great variety of vegetables are cultivated SAVAGE JUSTICE. 95 in Egypt, and they form no small portion of the food of the people. The delicious onion of the country, which is very different from the pungent European bulb, still maintains the high reputation it enjoyed in the time of Moses.* Although January had scarcely ended, there was also an abundance of vegetable marrow and cucumbers, fit for the table, growing in the open fields. They are watched by night, and a very primitive shed, covered with dhoura stalks, is provided for the man who keeps guard. He sleeps in a lodge in a garden of cucumbers, t Near Girgeh, Deftardah Bey, a son-in-law of the Pasha, who is now dead, had a residence. Many singular stories are told of this cruel man, who prided himself on his strict administration of justice. We will record one or two, strikingly illustrative of his savage character and recklessness of human life. A collector of taxes, under his government, once seized a cow belonging to a poor man, and sending for a butcher, he ordered it to be killed and divided into sixty pieces, which an equal number of his neighbours were obliged to purchase at a piastre each, while to the butcher was given the head for his trouble. The Fellah was ruined by a proceeding as barbarous as unjust, for he had already paid the tax claimed by the collector. The poor man took the first oppor- tunity to complain to the Deftardah, who, after clearly ascertaining the truth of his statement, summoned the tax-gatherer, the butcher, and the sixty purchasers of the cow into his presence. After reproaching the former for his injustice, he inquired of the Fellah •* Numbers, xi. 5. + Isaiah, i. 8. 96 SAVAGE JUSTICE. what was the value of the cow. "At least one hundred and twenty piastres," said the man. The Deftardah, without further ceremony, ordered the butcher to kill the tax-gatherer, who obeyed with trembling. He was then directed to cut the body into sixty pieces; it was done, and each of the villagers was compelled to take one and to pay two piastres. The money thus collected was handed to the Fellah, and to the butcher was given the head of the tax-gatherer as a compensation for his terrible work. A servant of the Deftardah once drank a measure of milk belonging to a poor woman in the streets of Cairo, and then refused to pay for it. She knew the man, and lost no time in appealing to his master. Having heard her story, and learnt that the value of the milk was five paras* the man was called and examined. He denied all knowledge of the transac- tion. The Deftardah turning to the woman said, " I shall have this man cut open immediately; if the milk is found in his stomach you shall be paid, if not, you shall meet with a similar fate." This horrible method of arriving at the truth was at once put into execution. It was ascertained that the servant had lately drank some milk; the woman received the five paras and was dismissed. Sometimes the proceedings of this wretch were dictated by wanton cruelty. The footmen who ran before his horse with large whips to clear the way, as is the custom in the East, once complained that * About a farthing. SAVAGE JUSTICE. 97 while the servants of people of far less consequence were provided with shoes, they went barefooted. "You shall have shoes," was the answer; but what was the horror of the poor men, when called into his presence the next day, to have iron shoes nailed to their feet by a blacksmith! To such of our readers who are acquainted only with the just and equal government of our own country, where the poor man has the same protection as the rich or powerful, the shocking stories we have just related will appear incredible; but we would not have given them further circulation, had we not felt satisfied of their truth. It would be easy to collect a long catalogue of similar crimes, which are still daily perpetrated on the oppressed people of Egypt. The Pasha himself is not a cruel man, except where his interests are deeply concerned; and then, as his destruction of the Mamelukes, to which we shall hereafter allude, clearly proves, he does not hesitate to shed blood. But his governors and officers exercise every species of injustice and cruelty. Those who excite their cupidity, or in any way give them offence, are treated without mercy. If the sailors had behaved improperly during the voyage, Mr. Dalton would have taken the law into his own hands; for the petty authorities up the river hear one side only, and are much more ready to please the English traveller by punishing the offenders severely, than to inquire how far his charges are just. Of late years, the Sheikh, or governor, of every village has been held responsible for all the crimes committed in his district; for the quota of taxes it H 98 THE LOST SAILOR. has to pay, and for the number of men it is bound to supply for public service. The government has greatly benefited by the arrangement, but the Sheikh cannot be forced to incur such onerous responsibility without being armed with a power too great to be vested in any man. A number of little despots are thus spread over the country, who oppress and rob the people with impunity. Sometimes, however, the Sheikh suffers for the faults of those under him, as the following circumstance will show: In returning down the river, the boat stopped late on the first night at a village to take up " Molly," who lived there, and had received a month's payment in advance. It was soon ascertained that he was not forthcoming, and although the rest of the sailors searched in all directions, he could not be found. What was to be done ? After a delay of two hours, the dragoman went to the Sheikh's house in the middle of the night, brought him down to the boat, put him to an oar, and told him that he must take Molly's place, or find a substitute. He sent for some friends, and a nephew of the old man was persuaded to be the latter. The Sheikh was then released, and left the boat, assuring Daireh that the runaway should be imprisoned and well bastinadoed directly he could be found. He has doubtless kept his word. Mr. Dalton, who was asleep in his cabin, knew nothing of what had passed till next morning, and then all the excuse he could get from Daireh, on remonstrating with him on the harshness of the proceeding was, that the Sheikh was responsible for his people, and it was the only way to secure another sailor. It might ESNEH. 99 have been expected that the new man would not behave well; but such is the habit of passive obe- dience among the people, that he soon got reconciled to his fate, and was one of the most effective of the sailors. The higher our travellers advanced up the river, the more constant was the north wind. They left Girgeh the next morning, and on the evening of the nineteenth day after quitting Cairo, they arrived at Thebes, and saw the gigantic ruins of Karnac in the distance, and the obelisk and temple of Luxor near the shore. Our readers may be surprised that so little has yet been said of the deeply interesting re- mains of Ancient Egypt. Mr. Dalton had decided that it would be better to defer visiting any objects of curiosity till he returned down the river. He did not, therefore, suffer himself to be detained even by the " Mighty Thebes," but proceeded with a fair wind. The next night, the vessel anchored near Esneh, a large town where the Pasha has a palace. By a singular change in the current, boats cannot at this time of the year get within a mile and a half of Esneh: ten years ago, it was a j)ort of considerable trade. Here our travellers met with two English gentlemen returning to Cairo, and gladly availed themselves of the opportunity of sending letters to England, while their countrymen thankfully accepted some newspapers two months old. The two steamers belonging to the Pasha were also there: they had accompanied him to Esneh; and early the next morning the vigorous old man, attended by one only of his officers, walked by before any of the family had h2 100 THE PASHA AT ESNEH. risen. He still continues his early habits, notwith- standing his advanced age. After a considerable delay, occasioned by Musta- pha's visit to Esneh to purchase provisions, " The Home" was again on her way, and the sails were not furled till she reached Assouan about sunset the next day. ARRIVAL AT ASSOUAN. 101 CHAPTER V. ARRIVAL AT ASSOUAN QUIET GREETINGS TOYLESS CHILDREN TOWER OF SYENE EXCURSION TO PHIL^ UNAVAILING PRECAUTION TEMPLES OF PHIL^ THE FIRST CATARACT ANCIENT QUARRIES CARGO OF SLAVES MUSTAPHA'S DISAPPOINTMENT EASTERN SLAVERY NO FUN IN EGYPT WRITING HOME — VISIT TO A CADI THE VISIT RETURNED WALK THROUGH ASSOUAN. Assouan is the last town in Upper Egypt, and lies on the frontiers of Nubia. The cataracts are about a mile further up the river; and there is but little change in the appearance of the Nile and its shores till within a short distance of this place. The broad placid river rolls on in majesty, sometimes exj^anding to a width of two miles, and at another, contracting to a fourth of the distance. The islands we have mentioned frequently interrupt its course, and divide the current. For hundreds of miles, a chain of rocky hills bounds the view on the left hand, sometimes hanging over the river in precipices, and at others, ten or fifteen miles distant. At Assouan, some immense masses of granite lie in the bed of the stream, and project considerably above the water. The whole scene is very picturesque. The island of 102 QUIET GREETINGS. Elephantina is just opposite to the town, and a little beyond it is an enormous rock, on which stood ancient Syene. It projects into the Nile, and greatly narrows the river, forming the natural and striking boundary of the country. On it the remains of old fortifica- tions are still visible, and it is not difficult to conjec- ture where the Tower of Syene* once stood. Before the vessel reached Assouan, many of the sailors' friends came down to the shore, and while some plunged in and got on board, others ran along the banks. Three of the men, whose families resided at a village about four miles down the river, requested leave to be dropped there for the night. It was readily granted, and their wives and children were waiting to receive them. Five months had passed since they had left home, but there was no warmth of affection in their mutual greetings. A quiet grasp of the wife's hand, with a look at the children, was all that passed. Emily had been greatly annoyed at never hearing the hearty laugh or seeing the boister- ous games of childhood during the voyage, and now she was angry ^vith the sailors for not catching up their little ones in their arms and covering them with kisses. The children of Egypt rarely smile, and are very seldom seen at play. Cricket, leap-frog, prisoner's base, and other active sports, by which the youth of England get rid of a little of their super- abundant animal life and vivacity, are unknown in dreary, depressed Egypt. Nor can a doll, that prettiest of all toys for a little girl, be found in the country. The poor little things squat listlessly on * Ezekiel, xxx. 6. OLD ASSOUAN. . 103 the ground, and like their parents, spend no small portion of the day in idle vacuity. Man, woman, and child are so thoroughly trodden down to the earth, that they make no effort to rise. Often did Emily exclaim, " How thankful I am, dear mamma, that I was born in England !" It was not yet the middle of February, but the weather had become extremely warm. As the sun descended in glorious majesty behind the Island of Elephantina, the whole horizon was gilded by its beams. Then the full moon rose, and the atmo- sphere was so clear, that the dark graceful tops of the distant palms seemed painted on her disk. The extreme dryness of the air was remarkable; there was no dew at night; and after a sultry day, the cool fresh air was exceedingly agreeable, without being at ail dangerous. Charles was disposed some- times to wish that he might be permitted to sleep, as the sailors did, on the deck. No sooner was the boat brought to shore, than the whole family, attended by Daireh and two of the sailors, mounted the rock, and wandered among the ruins of Old Assouan. The populous city was aban- doned some hundreds of years ago, after being almost cleared of its inhabitants by the plague. They erected the present town on a spot near at hand, but much below the former site. Although the houses they deserted were built of unburnt brick, which are nothing but squares of mud mixed with straw and dried in the sun, most of them remain standing. Some of the roofs have fallen in, but the walls are perfect : they cover the ruins of a still more ancient city of the time of the Romans. The base of a large 104 TOWER OF SYENE. tower, a kind of quay, and some fortifications, are yet left to tell of their mighty works. The conquerors of the world were, however, but successors to still earlier possessors of the key to Ethioj^ia, for stones covered with hieroglyphics, and borrowed from their buildings, are visible in the Roman remains. Our travellers will not easily forget the beauty of that moonlight walk. The Nile was rolling at their feet, while to their left, it might be seen dashing furiously among the labyrinth of rocks, which causes what is called the cataract. Before them lay the Island of Elephantina, while behind them rose the mountains of granite from which the wondrous obelisks of Egypt were quarried. Mr. Dalton re- minded his children of what the prophet Ezekiel had said twenty-four centuries ago, and how exactly his words had been fulfilled. Egypt had, indeed, fallen, and the pride of her power come down, from the Tower of Syene : the people had fallen by the sword, and the city had become desolate." It was with great reluctance that they quitted this most interesting spot, and returned to their boat. Mr. Dalton wished to spend another hour in a solitary walk, that he might indulge in the reflec- tions it was so well calculated to produce, but Daireh would not consent to leave him behind. He said that it was not improbable that a hyaena might dis- turb his meditations, or robbers attack him ; so, like a prudent man, he gave up his intention. At Assouan, lay three boats belonging to other travellers. One of them had just returned from the * Ezek. xxix. 8, &c. EXCURSION TO PHIL^. 105 second cataract, and Mr. Dalton took the oppor- tunity of making inquiries as to the expediency of going higher up the river. The reis was bound by the contract to take his boat over the first cataract, but it was doubtful whether it was not too large to go safely at this time of the year. It would also require three weeks for the voyage, and then there would be hardly time to get to Jerusalem by Easter. It was therefore finally decided that the boat should proceed no further. The next morning, after an early breakfast, some donkeys were hired. Saddles are a luxury very little known in most parts of Upper Egypt, and were not to be found at Assouan, but the Daltons had brought some from Cairo. The whole party then set out for the Island of Philse. It lies five or six miles to the south. The desert of Arabia comes to the very gates of the town, and our travellers were soon pacing over a waste of sand. At no great distance they passed through the cemetery of Old Assouan. It is of great extent, and contains many thousand tombstones, about eighteen inches square, covered mth inscriptions in Coptic, Most of them had gradually sunk down, but some yet remained standing. None have suffered from the wantonness of man, nor would any one dare to displace or injure them. A foolhardy soldier some years ago fired his musket at one, and the hole he made was pointed out by the guide. According to tradition, the sacrile- gious act was followed by his instant death. A long wall, about five feet high, and very strongly built, next excited the travellers' attention. It stretched across the sand, apparently without an object. 106 UNAVAILING PRECAUTION. For what was that wall built 1 The guide was ready with his answer. Many centuries ago, a queen who lived here was told that her only child would he killed by a crocodile, and to keep the young prince from the river and from danger, this wall was erected. Her precautions were useless, for he had been provided with a wooden representation of the reptile to ride on, and a nail projecting from some part of it wounded him, and his death followed. This was another ver- sion of the fable of the boy killed by striking the picture of a lion and running a nail into his hand, and Charles related it to Daireh. " That was taken from us," said he; and such was generally his excla- mation whenever the young people amused him with old legend or nursery tale. Probably he was right, as most of our ancient popular stories have had their origin in the East, and not unfrequently he was able to tell a story closely resembling that he had heard. Our travellers had now reached the singular bay on the Nile in which Philse lies. They had entered Nubia, the Ethiopia of scripture, and were among a people different in costume and language to those of Egypt. They were nearly black; and Emily, as she looked at them, remembered the question in her Bible — " Can the Ethiopian change his skin f The younger children were quite naked, and those of a more advanced age had nothing on but a girdle with a singular fringe of strips of leather, six or eight inches long, attached to it. The island of Philse, clothed with verdure, lay before them, and entering a rude boat, rowed by two or three boys, they quickly crossed over. This beautiful spot was held in pecu- TEMPLES OF PHIL^. 107 liar veneration in ancient times. It does not contain more than five or six acres, and is almost covered by the ruins of temples, which once drew worship- pers from all parts of the world. Here was said to be buried the god Osiris, brother of the goddess Isis, one of the great objects of Egyptian worship, who was slain by the giant Typhon. Once a year, Isis mourned her loss, and by her tears caused the overflow of the Nile. " By him who sleeps in Philse !" was one of the most solemn oaths of the ancient heathen. The principal temple is of great beauty and magnitude: it is covered with hieroglyphics and bas-reliefs, which in many places are as sharp and perfect as when first cut. The grand entrance was from the other side of the island, through a portal, the remains of which yet overhang the river. It led into a spacious court surrounded by beautiful columns. In and about these noble ruins the natives have built their mud huts, and the bases of the pillars and lower part of the temple walls are hidden beneath piles of dust and rubbish. The Pasha has lately shown some faint desire to preserve the wonderful monuments of anti- quity which draw so many travellers to his country, and has now prohibited any one from residing in Philse. Time goes hand in hand with man, in other countries, in the work of destruction, but here it is evident that the temples would have been in a perfect state, although at least two thousand years old, but for wanton carelessness or the deliberate injury they have received. The family entered some chambers from which the light of day has always been excluded. They were as profusely ornamented as the more exposed parts, and were probably used for the secret 108 TEMPLES OF PHIL^. rites of the pagan worshippers. There were several inscriptions in Greek and Latin, recording the visits of those who ages ago came to worship at the shrine. The exact latitude and longitude of Philae, with some other scientific observations, were also deeply engraved on a stone in the wall. This had been done when the French savans were here, during their famous expedition to Egypt in 1795. Over the principal entrance to the temple was also inscribed a notice, that in 1841 some Roman-catholic missionaries, under the auspices of the Propaganda Society of Rome, had penetrated thus far. After wandering for two hours amidst these most interesting ruins, and admiring the singular beauty of a spot, so long remarkable as a stronghold of idolatry, the travellers sat down in the shade to take their lunch. Daireh had purchased a large circular piece of leather at Cairo, which, gathered up by running strings, formed a convenient receptacle for a cold chicken, some cheese, biscuits, and bread, and when opened out, made an excellent tablecloth. Full justice was done to the repast, while the eye was feasted with the natural beauty of the scene around. Then return- ing to the mainland, our travellers remounted their donkeys, and departed amidst a chorus of " back- sheesh" from many of the natives who had collected on the shore. Mr. Daltou distributed a few small coins among the more aged and infirm, and had, con- sequently, a considerable augmentation of his suite for the next half hour. The guide now led his charge towards the cataract, that they might have the opportunity of witnessing the ascent of a traveller's boat. The young people FIRST CATARACT. 109 were somewhat disappointed to find the " Cataracts" nothing more than a succession of rapids, formed by- numerous rocks obstructing the course of the stream: they extend for about half a mile. The boat was already on her way, and as the wind was favourable, she carried all the sail she could. Her deck was crowded by Nubians, while many others were planted on the rocks, and straining at the ropes attached to her bow. It was a remarkable and exciting scene. Sometimes she made a little progress, and then the strong current suddenly forced her back, drawing a dozen vociferous blackies into the water. Then a number of men jumped out of the boat, seized the rope, clambered up the rock, and once more dragged her forward. This difficulty over, she would advance easily a few yards through smoother water, and again the straining, tugging, and hallooing were repeated. About a hundred men were employed in the task, and at times nearly a third of them were seen tossing about in the agitated waters. Occasionally a vessel meets with serious injury from striking on a rock, but there is no real danger to the passengers. If it even sunk, they would be quickly rescued from the waves by their swarthy friends, who are as much at home in the boiling torrent as on shore. Still, it is better for a timid person to go by land from Assouan to Philse, and there rejoin his vessel. In the boat that the Daltons saw making the ascent, was an Irish gentleman, in a very delicate state of health : he was so much affected by the apparent danger, and the noise and clamour of the people, that he burst a blood-vessel, and a week after was carried down the river a corpse. 110 ANCIENT QUARRIES. When the boat had passed, about a dozen active, lively boys, more merry than any our travellers had seen for some time, put in their claims to notice. They jumped into the river, rolled down the rapids, clambered up the rocks, and played all sorts of antics. One favourite exploit was to take a log of wood, on which three or four sat astride; paddling it with their feet to the head of a fall, down they all rolled together, disappearing under the water, and rising at a distance. Some of these little amphibise were not more than five years old. Our party next proceeded to the famous granite quarries of Syene. They were about two miles distant from the town, and have been deserted for fourteen centuries at least; but all looked so fresh, that it seemed as if the workpeople had merely left for the day. Innumerable blocks were lying in all directions, some in a rough state, others nearly pre- pared for use. In one part was lying an obelisk of immense magnitude, nearly detached from the rock. It had cracked near the middle, probably from some flaw in the stone, and had been abandoned. Round the edges of many blocks were seen the marks of numerous small holes. It is thought that wedges of wood were driven into them, and water poured in. The moisture filled the pores of the wood, caused it to swell, and thus detached the block from the rock. The guide pointed to a tomb on a neighbouring liill, which he said was that of Harouu Alraschid, the hero of the Arabian Nights' Entertainments, and proposed a visit to it. How he came to be buried there, he could not say; and as there was nothing to CARGO OF SLAVES. Ill be seen worth the trouble, the Daltons preferred returning to their boat. They passed by the modern cemetery, which had the usual desolate and neglected appearance of an Egyptian burial-ground. Just as they were about to descend to the shore, their at- tention was attracted by a numerous body of slaves, encamped under the walls of the town: they were mostly children, or young people of the ages of ten to twenty. The elder females were crouched under some miserable awnings, no more than sufficient to shade them from the sun, but the greater part of the poor creatures had no shelter. They had been lately brought from Dongola, many hundred miles up the river, and were waiting for an addition to their number, sufficient to make up a cargo for the Cairo market. Our young friends were deeply interested by the sight, and asked many questions of Daireh. Emily began by expressing her surprise that there should be so much apparent cheerfulness among them. " Why should they not be contented?" said Daireh; "they are better fed than ever they were before, and besides, they have now all got clothes." The clothes consisted of a scanty chemise tied round their waist. " But is not the slave-merchant very cruel to them ?" asked Emily. — " No, Miss. Why should he be ? — he wants them to look well and happy, that he may sell them to more advantage." — " But they have been torn away from their parents — how could they bear that f — " Oh," replied he, " perhaps some of them did not like it at first, but they have had time to forget home." I should not forget it quite so easily, thought Emily. In reply to Charles's many questions, the dragoman 112 CARGO OF SLAVES. told him that a great trade in slaves was carried on at Assouan, and that in many cases parents sold their children to the dealers, but generally they were stolen. They are chiefly brought from the banks of the Mle, but sometimes a body of men would- go into the interior, take forcible possession of the only well near a village, and keep the inhabitants without water till they consented to part with their children. Charles's blood was stirred by the statement, and he expressed his indignation in no very measured terms. Daireh could not enter into his feelings : he contended that it was a good thing for the children to become slaves, and that they were in consequence much better off. It is not an easy thing to argue with an Arab on abstract principles of morals. If the end to be obtained is good, or he thinks it is so, he never scruples about the means : hence, his utter disregard to truth, if anything is to be gained by a lie. The man who would rather lose his property than frighten away a robber by some false statement, would be little better than an idiot, in his estimation. Mr. Dalton was obliged, the next day, to enter more fully into the question of slavery. Mustapha asked for his first month's wages, and, as a favour, to receive another month in advance, assigning as a reason, that he wished to buy a young female slave at Assouan. He added, that she would cost much less than at Cairo, and that his wife was in want of one as a servant, and that he could easily find room for her in the hold of the vessel. His master told him that as a month's wages were due he had no right to withhold them, but that he must decline advancing any money for such a purpose, nor would mustapha's disappointment. 113 he permit a slave to enter liis boat. The refusal was as mildly worded as possible, but Mustapha could hardly command his temper, and did not dare to trust himself to say any more. In the evening, Daireh tried to induce Mr. Dalton to change his mind. He said that a stout healthy girl, ten or twelve years old, might be bought at Assouan for fifty dollars,* while at Cairo she would cost seventy; and argued, with some ingenuity, that it would be a real kindness to the child, as she would have a much pleasanter passage in " The Home" than in a crowded slave-boat, and that as Mustapha fully intended to buy a slave, it could make no difference whether she was purchased directly or some time after. Neither he nor his fellow-servant thought it at all necessary to refer to the circumstance, that even if no objection had been made to having a slave on board, that at least his master's permission to feed her at his ex- pense for several weeks ought to be asked. Mr. Dalton was at some pains to make him under- stand why he considered slavery, under any form, to be absolutely wrong, and that consequently, he should commit a sin by sanctioning it in any way. Daireh listened patiently to his arguments, and if not con- vinced, was at least silenced. No further effort was made to change Mr. Dalton's decision; but Mustapha was so thoroughly disconcerted by the refusal, that he lost no opportunity of showing his ill temper. His master bore with it for some days, knowing how greatly he had been disappointed. He then gave him to understand that he was treading on dangerous * About ten giiiueas. I 114 EASTERN SLAVERY. ground, and must not trespass too much on his patience and forbearance, and that unless a change in his manner and conduct took place directly, he must take the consequences. Whether he felt that he had gone too far, or whether his ill humour had by this time evaporated, we know not, but in the course of the evening he made an ample apology, and even added that he was now glad his request had not been granted. He excused his display of temper by saying, that the thought of purchasing the slave " had been so sweet to his heart," that he could have sold the clothes off his back to have gratified it. Thus peace was once more a welcome passenger in " The Home." Slavery appears in a much milder form in the East than it ever did in our West India colonies; it more nearly resembles the state of bondage existing among the ancient Jews. The slave is almost always a domestic servant, is usually well treated, and lives on terms of great familiarity with his master or mistress. He is frequently emancipated, and sometimes a stolen child, who has passed his early years in bondage, rises to be a great man. It is no unusual thing for a master to marry his female slave, nor is the union considered at all degrading. If the owner of a slave does not treat him well, he may complain to the magistrate, and his master is obliged to part with him : nor does this protection to the slave exist in form only; the law is often put in force. In the afternoon our travellers rowed over to the island of Elephantina: it has been described by some as abounding in natural beauty. It is very large, and apparently as fruitful as any part of Egypt; but they NO FUN IN EGYPT. 115 saw nothing to justify the high encomiums it has received. There are some slight remains of a temple of great antiquity, which was probably destroyed by the Romans when they built a fortress at Syene; and a colossal granite figure of some Egyptian deity, in a sitting posture, still rises above the heap of ruins, as if left there to muse over its former glories. From Assouan the Daltons had again an oppor- tunity of making up a packet of letters for England; among- them was the followino- from Charles to a schoolfellow: — " My dear Howard, — I found your droll epistle in the box which reached us at Alexandria, and was much amused by its contents. The request, at its close, that 1 would soon write in reply, and take care that my letter was ' full of fun,' it is not very easy to comply with. Egypt is what you would call a funny country, and yet there is little or no fun to be found in it. The children even are as grave as judges, and we never see them at play. As for the men, they are more disposed to sit cross-legged and smoke than to indulge in merriment. My father says, that they have been so long oppressed, that they have lost all hope of any better state of things, and that no one can be cheerful who is without hope. " Let me try, however, whether I can think of any- thing you will reckon to be good fun. Perhaps our first ten minutes in Egypt were as amusing as any we have since had; for there was my father, battling with a lot of donkey-men and boys who crowded round us on landing at Alexandria, and, notwith- standing all his efforts, we were at last actually i2 116 WRITING HOME. carried off without our consent. It was funny to see us rattling along the narrow lanes; and when Emily's donkey got entangled among a number of baskets of vegetables, and our maid Marshall's went full charge against a fat old Turk and upset him, I could not help laughing. The next bit of fun was a race we had on the Nile against the boat of some American friends of ours. We beat them hollow; and I wanted to crow a little, but my father would not let me. He said that, had they been Englishmen, he would not have been so particular, but that an American cannot bear to be laughed at. I think our friends had too much good sense to mind it, but perhaps he was right. Jonathan is certainly very touchy. " I had some good fun the other day. Our boat was moored to the shore, as the wind was high and contrary, and a number of enormous hawks, almost as large as eagles, were flying about quite near it. Daireh (our dragoman) said that they were so bold that they would dart at a piece of meat laid on the deck, and so they did. I got a very long piece of thin string, and tied some raw mutton to it, and threw it into the water. One of them came as quick as lightning, caught it up in his claws, and away he went. He was soon at the length of his tether, and down fell the meat into the water. Almost before it got there another had hold of it, and I suppose twenty had a touch at it before they tore it off* the string. Some went quietly to work, and tugged away hand- somely, and Mustapha (our cook, who fancies himself a first-rate shot) killed one at last while struggling in the air. " One of our sailors who had nothinor the matter WRITING HOME. 117 \vith him asked for some medicine, and Daireli gave him a spoonful of mustard. I could not help laughing to see the faces the fellow made, and how he sputtered and spit for half an hour after. Another had a very- bad headach, and mamma gave him a saline draught. He was soon better, but said that she had burnt his mouth by making him drink boiling water. " I have come to the end of my sheet as well as my stock of fun. I suspect you Avill think that we are dull enough, but I can assure you our time passes very pleasantly. I have written a long letter to cousin John, which I have asked him to let you read, and that will tell you how much I am pleased ^dth our voyage. Good bye, dear Tom. I hope I shall see you much improved when I return. There was plenty of room for amendment. " I am yours, very sincerely, " Charles Dalton." We are also able to give a copy of Marshall's letter to her parents, which was despatched at the same time : — " Dear Father and Mother, — My master is so kind as to offer to send a letter to you, so I write to say that I hope you got one I sent you from Malta, and that I am quite well, and hope you are the same. I am very happy, and I still like travelling very much, and I shall be sorry when we come back again. We are sailing on a great river called the Nile, and the first thing I saw after we left Cairo was the place where little Moses was hid among the bulrushes; only there are no bulrushes now, and nothing but houses. 118 WRITING HOME. We live in the boat; and Miss Emily and I have got a nice little room to ourselves, and I am at work mending all the things, and looking out of window after crocodiles, which are black, long, frightful creatures, which live in the Nile and eat people when they can catch them by their legs. We have got two servants called Arabs, and one is named Dairy and the other Musthuffer. They are both very civil, but I like Dairy best; he has but one eye, poor fellow, for he lost the other in the Pyramids. Musthuffer is very cross just now, because master wont let him buy a little slave. I saw yesterday a great many slaves laid against a wall to sell — wasn't it shocking? I have a great many things to tell you, and I hardly know which to begin with, but I will tell you all when I see you, and you wont believe half I say. I am very happy, and I like Egypt, and our boat, and the Nile, and the sailors, but it is a queer country to live in. What would sister say if her baby had a black skin and no clothes on, and was half eat up by nasty flies? Poor little dear! I am glad it is not an Egyptian. Give my love to her — my sister, I mean, and my brother and my other sisters, and accept the same yourself. " I am, my dear father and mother, " Your loving dutiful daughter, " Elizabeth Marshall." "P.S. I can't tell you where to write to me, but I will send you another letter soon. I am very happy, but I wish mother had let me buy that thin dress, which she said wouldn't wear well, for you can't think VISIT TO A CADI. 119 how hot it is in Egypt. Master Charles tells me that we are close to the horrid zone ; only think of that! — but I am not afraid." Marshall had cause to say that the weather was hot, for the thermometer, even just before sunset, stood at SQ in the cabin and 106 in the sun. Mr. Dalton determined to leave Assouan as soon as possible, but, before he started, it was necessary to take down one mast, and make preparations for rowing. The wind is rarely favourable in returning to Cairo, and there- fore the oars, which are long, unwieldy affairs, are brought into use in descending the river. Although Mr. Dalton had no complaint to make, he determined to present Hassenein's letter to the Cadi, on whom he therefore called. The dignitary was sitting on a high bench in the court-yard of his house, smoking of course, while some of the people of the town were squatting on low divans placed near him. He was handsomely dressed in silk, but bare- legged and barefooted. After some compliments had passed, coffee was brought, and the Cadi announced his intention of returning the visit in the afternoon. AVliile the coffee was being drunk, two men came in and said something to the Cadi; he replied to them, and they left. They were two of his officers, en- gaged to collect forced labourers for excavating a canal in the neighbourhood, and they came to report that several men had run away rather than be so employed. He gave directions that their wives and children should be made to act as substitutes ! At the appointed hour, the Cadi came down to 120 THE VISIT RETURNED. the boat, and was invited into the cabin. Before entering, he took off his red slippers, and with bare feet, as before, was quickly squatted on a carpet spread over a bed. He examined the fittings-up of the cabin with a curious eye, and took particular notice of a pair of English j^istols. From his manner, it was evident that he would not have been unwilling to accept them. He asked a few questions about England, a country of which he had magni- ficent, but very vague ideas. Among other things, he inquired whether it was true that a hole under one of our great rivers had been made for people to pass through. He was informed that it was quite true, and Mr. Dalton described the Thames Tunnel as clearly as he could. He had heard that the English had a machine which went up in the air, and that they meant to invade Egj^Dt by that means. Was there any truth in that? It was difficult to give him any clear notion of a balloon, but he was told that many persons had travelled through the air by its assistance, but would never think of employing it for such a purpose. While smoking his pipe, and drink- ing a large cup of coffee, well sweetened and with plenty of milk, which seemed to please him much, he sent home for a Nubian spear, and presented it to Mr. Dalton, in return for some trifles he had received. Then, with many flowing compliments and profound salutations, he departed. He took no notice of Emily and her mamma, either in entering or leaving. It would have been a breach of etiquette to pay any attention to the female part of the family. In the evening he sent to beg for an orange and a lemon, which are rarely seen in this hot region, nor will they WASHING DAY. 121 grow much above Cairo. In Lower Egypt they are good and very cheap, not costing more than a shilHng a hundred. The next day was devoted to washing the family linen. The dragoman had tried to find some person to do the work when the boat was lying-to during the voyage, but without success. Now it was impe- rative to do something, and a man was persuaded to bring his wife and mother on board for the purpose. They were to be well paid; but no sooner had they arrived than their courage failed, and they ran away. Daireh managed to overtake them, and at last they were coaxed back. When fairly set to work they were, however, at first of little service. Nothing was done without their squatting down on the deck; and the way in which they caught up a quantity of linen, and stirred it round in the hot water, amused Mrs. Dalton very much. It was arranged at last that Marshall should act as fugleman, and they were told to imitate her exactly, and in this way the operation was tolerably well performed. Mr. Dalton, in the meantime, accompanied by his children, once more visited the ruins of Syene, and then walked through Assouan. They had no sooner entered the town than they were followed by a crowd of men, women, and children. When the people got troublesome and came too near, he drove them back by threatened blows with his koorbash; but they quickly repeated the annoyance. At last, seeing a large sun-dried brick lying on a bench, he caught it up, and held it high in the air, as if to throw it among them. It was enough; the whole company, about fifty in number, ran off as fast as they could, 122 WALK THROUGH ASSOUAN. and in a few seconds not one was to be seen. Much of the timidity shown on this occasion must be put down to the natural cowardice of the people. The lower orders are, however, so accustomed to the oppression of those above them, that they seldom make any attempt to defend themselves, and invari- ably seek for safety in flight. FRESH PASSENGERS. 123 CHAPTER VI. FRESH PASSENGERS TEMPLES OF OMBOS RENCONTRE WITH A BEDOUIN ANTIQUITY OF EGYPT QUARRIES OF HADJAR SILSILIS CHAMELEON CAUGHT TEMtLE OF EDFOU TROUBLESOME COMPANY PLAGUES OF EGYPT DONGOLESE PRIESTS CURE FOR THE HEADACH CITY OF ELYTHIAS TOMBS OF ELKOB ESNEH AND ITS TEMPLE ANCIENT ASTRONOMY DANCING GIRLS — COIN OF EGYPT — ARNAOUT SOLDIERS COTTON FACTORY TEMPLE OF ERMENT VISIT TO A PRISON ATTACK OF DOGS. An addition was made to the passengers in " The Home," in the persons of four Mahomedan priests, or rather divinity students, who were going to Cairo to complete their education, and from thence to Mecca on pilgrimage. They were young men, natives of Dongola, and quite black. The reis, who had doubtless received a small sum as passage-money, requested Mr, Dalton's permission for them to come on board. It was granted, with the stipulation that they were occasionally to help the crew in rowing, and to be very quiet and well-behaved. They were also told that, if they gave the least cause for com- plaint, they should be put ashore directly, without ceremony. At sunset, our travellers began their voyage down 124 TEMPLES OF OMBOS. the Nile. The wind was against them, and their progress very slow. At the usual hour, the family retired to rest, and while asleep, the impressment of the old Sheikh into their service took place, as we have before related. The next day, the wind blew so strongly up the river, that it completely over- powered the efforts of the sailors, and the influence of the current. After rocking about and turning round and round for some time, the vessel was moored to a bank, and remained there for several hours. By six o'clock the following morning, it had reached Koum Ombos, where there are the remains of two large temples. One, which was anciently devoted to the worship of Isis, is of great beauty. It was till within the last two or three years in excellent condition, but the river has here committed the same ravages as at Girgeh. Nearly all the front has been undermined and destroyed, and a vast number of great blocks of stone have fallen down, and lie piled up in disorder in the water. The other temple is much larger, and has a noble portico, supported by three rows of columns. While the Nile has brought ruin on one building, the desert has encroached on the other, and more than half the height of the columns is hidden under sand, and the interior is completely choked up. At the back of the temple, the sand reached nearly as high as the capitals of the columns. It is said that it was devoted to the worship of the crocodile. A few years ago, the large tank in which the amphibious god bathed, and the terrace on which he was per- mitted to walk, were to be seen. With the river RENCONTRE WITH A BEDOUIN. 125 advancing on one side, and the desert on the other, before a century has passed, this very ancient monu- ment of the gross idolatry of Old EgyjDt will, in all probability, have completely disappeared. Mr. Dalton remained to take one of the solitary walks in which he used to indulge, and the rest of the party returned to the boat. Having tried to force his way into the interior in front, without success, he went round the building, hoping to find another entrance. As he turned a corner, he came suddenly on a wild-looking Bedouin, armed with a gun, and carrying a dagger bound to the upper part of the left arm. It was not a very agreeable appa- rition, but he saw the necessity of showing no sign of fear. He walked up to the man, surveyed him for a moment, and then quietly taking the dagger from its sheath, made signs that he wished to purchase it. The bargain was soon concluded, and then the Bedouin made him understand that he had a Nubian leather shield, that he wished to sell. He was told to bring it down to the boat, and while he went to fetch it, Mr. Dalton returned to breakfast. The man came back in less than an hour, bringing the shield. It was in bad condition, and not worth having, but the travellers were glad to purchase from him a very large ostrich shell, curiously enclosed in a network of leather, which had been used as a drinking cup, and hung at his girdle. Before they left, the sailors took some ballast on board, to trim the boat, and many of the sculptured stones of the Temple of Isis, covered with hieroglyphics, were thrown into the hold. For more than twenty cen- turies they had reposed in peace, and now they were 126 ANTIQUITY OF EGYPT. about to descend the Nile, past the very quarry from which they had been originally extracted. There is something in the immense antiquity of the remains of ancient Egypt, which the traveller is at first hardly able to realize. We visit a cathedral or castle in Europe, and as we look at the moulder- ing walls, and columns blackened with age, and are told that five or six centuries have passed since the hands that reared them have been laid in the dust, we muse over the long lapse of time, and call to mind what changes in the world's history have since taken place, and how many generations have lived and died. We regard them with all the respect due to venerable old age; but they are the creations of yesterday when compared with the antiquities of Egypt. The tombs, the temples, the obelisks, were constructed long before the Christian era. They had been plundered and partly destroyed while Kome was in her infancy, and many of them existed while Joseph ruled over the country. Then again, the extreme freshness of what is left puzzles the beholder. The colouring in both of the temples of Ombos, for example, is in places as vivid as if just laid on, and the sculpture as sharp and perfect as the day the workman gave the last blow of his hammer. The Arab conquerors of Egypt have industriously destroyed the representations of heathen deities, wherever they could reach them, and there is plenty of evidence of their industry. But so inter- minable was the task they imposed on themselves, that it was not half carried into effect. One part of a building is terribly defaced, while others, less acces- sible, are left to prove how little of the devastation is the result of time and weather. QUARRIES OF HAD JAR SILSILIS. 127 The quarries of Hadjar Silsilis were next visited. They are excavated out of a chain of rocks on each side the river. Those on the east are the most exten- sive, and many hours might be spent in exploring them. Our travellers entered an excavation so large, that one of the London squares, with all its houses, would find room in it. It was from this inexhaustible dejjot of stone that the materials for building Thebes and several other cities were taken. A road cut in the rock, and marked with carriage-wheels, still exists. On each side are small rude bas-reliefs, initials, &c., in perfect condition, done for amusement by the workmen in their leisure hours. On the opposite side are some small temples, or tombs, hollowed out of the face of the rock, and fronting the river, which our travellers did not visit. In going back to the boat, Mrs. Dalton trod on a small branch of a prickly shrub; the thorns pierced through her shoe in half a dozen places, and hurt her foot severely. In no country is the curse pronounced on Adam, that the ground should bring forth thorns and thistles,* more literally fulfilled. The only trees found in Upper Egypt in any number, the Palm and the green Acacia, are armed with thorns, and almost every wild plant is crowded with prickles; the Haifa, which is the most common weed, is topped with sharp and dangerous points, and thistles abound everywhere. To-day, a chameleon brought by the young people from Assouan, died in consequence of an accident. It had crawled into a lantern, and Mustapha, in * Genesis, iii, 18. 128 A CHAMELEON CAUGHT. taking it out hastily, hurt it so much, that it did not long survive. The curious creature had been an object of great interest to Charles and Emily, and they hoped to have been able to tame it. When not irritated, its colour was a beautiful pea-green, but on being annoyed in any way, it would rapidly change into a very dark brown. The length of the head and body was about five inches, and its tail considerably longer. It moved slowly, and with great caution, using its tail whenever it could curl it round any object small enough to be grasped. It was fed on lettuce, which it eat out of the hand; but in its natural state it lives chiefly on insects, spend- ing most of its time among the branches of trees. There is a great variety of the lizard tribe in Egypt. Some of the smaller kind are extremely beautiful, especially when seen in the bright sunshine basking on a wall, or darting with incredible rapidity after their prey. The largest, called the Wahren, is nearly three feet long, and is amphibious. It is very like the crocodile in shape, but has a flexible back, and is much more rapid in its motions. The skin is covered with small scales, and, being very tough, is cut into slips by the Nubians, and used to cover and strengthen their long spears. When caught, it bites at anything it can reach with great fury, and one traveller says that he saw it snap at and crush pieces of red-hot charcoal, which happened to be near at hand. Our travellers reached Edfou early the following morning, and having procured a donkey for Mrs. Dalton, they crossed some fields loaded with corn nearly ready for the sickle, to visit one of the largest TEMPLE OF EDFOU. 129 temples in Egypt. The Propylaeum, or entrance gate, is very grand, and of a great height. It is covered with sculpture, representing, on each side the entrance, a gigantic conqueror, who, stalking over a field of battle, treads his enemies under his feet, while he grasps in one hand several captives by their long hair, and holds an uplifted sword in the other. There is much spirit in the design, but the same disregard to the proportions of the human body is here displayed as in all the Egyptian composi- tions. The difference in size between the hero and his antagonists is also remarkable : he is at least six times their height. Such seems to have been the ancient manner, in Egypt, of expressing superiority both of body and mind. His great men, the artist made great men in the literal sense of the word. Passing through the grand entrance, under the centre of the Propylseum, the Daltons went into a very large and noble court, with a fine colonnade on each side. At the opposite extremity is the portico of the temple, supported by pillars of great magnitude, profusely ornamented with sculpture. The interior of the building has been lately cleared out, and is now used as a storehouse for the Pasha's corn. The immense accumulation of rubbish outside reaches nearly to the roof of the temple, while on it is built a complete village of the miserable mud huts of the natives ! There were even several sheep and goats feeding in the vacant parts. Here, and throughout Egypt, the traveller is forcibly struck with the ex- ceeding paltriness of the modern buildings, as they stand in striking contrast to the wonderful remains of antiquity. A week of lieav)- rain would wash the K 130 TEMPLE OF EDFOU. village into mud, and clear the roof of the mighty temple ! Was it to support such an abject group of cottages as these that thousands of prisoners and slaves were employed to extract huge masses of stone from their native quarry, and, with incredible labour, lift them to the tops of the mighty columns, thus forming a roof which bids defiance to time? The side walls, profusely ornamented, are defiled by streams of filth which are poured down from above. The degradation of the gorgeous shrine of idolatry offers a striking illustration of the fulfilment of God's denunciation — " I will pour contempt upon the heathen." The inhabitants of this singular village are as miserable as their habitations; they crowded round the strangers, clamouring for backsheesh, and could with difficulty be driven away. The temple is surrounded by a massive wall, wide enough for a carriage road. It is beautifully constructed of masonry, and is also covered with bas-reliefs Large mounds of rubbish rise above the plain for some distance around : they are all that is left of the famous city of Apollinopolis Magna. Among them, and nearly buried, are seen the remains of a smaller temple. Before the travellers left Edfou, they ascended to the top of the Propylseum. It contains several chambers, and a fine view of the Nile and surrounding country is gained from the summit. They had here, as generally, to endure the annoy- ance of the poor people, who, partly from curiosity, but mainly in the hope of backsheesh, follow every step of the traveller with great pertinacity. They stir up the light dust, which is in abundance every- where, into dense clouds, rendering it at times almost PLAGUES OF EGYPT. 131 impossible to remain in the neiglibourliood ; but, worse than this, they are so covered with vermin, that unless he is very cautious, he is sure to bring away more companions than he desires. Egypt has not lost the plagues which Pharaoh's obstinacy brought into the country. Fleas of surprising acti- vity, great magnitude, and insatiable thirst after blood, abound everywhere : they seem to sjDring out of the very dust. A parasitical insect we are loath even to name, swarms in the dress of the lower classes, who are continually seen engaged in thinning its ranks: it is even frequently found in the new linen or calico purchased in the bazaars. The noisome creature which the English housewife keeps ^vith so much care from her bedrooms, is very common; while the formidable centipede and scorpion are by no means rare. There is no end to the plagues of Egypt, and the most scrupulous caution does not prevent the traveller from being infested by them. The mild winters and extreme heat of summer greatly assist in multiplying these pests, but the dirty habits of the people are the chief cause of their immense numbers. " The Home" was by no means free from the invaders in the early part of the voyage, but Mrs. Dalton took active measures to reduce the nuisance. The cabins were thoroughly washed all over with soap and water once a week, and the bedding laid on deck and well beaten. She had soon the pleasure to find the boat comparatively free from the tiny tormentors. A good Mussulman thinks that he has no right to take away life, except to supply food. Many of the natives, therefore, when clearing themselves of vermin, drop the creatures on the ground. Mr. K 2 132 DONGOLESE PRIESTS. Dalton noticed that some of the crew gravely laid them down on the deck. He did not wish to inter- fere with their honest scruples, but he could not consent that such a jDractice should be continued. After trying, nearly in vain, to convince them that they would not be wrong in killing enemies of such a kind, it was agreed that those who still hesitated should put them into the river, rather than on deck. They were not killed, and had perfect liberty to swim to shore — if they could. We must say something of the new passengers, the divinity students from Dongola. They led a very quiet, lazy sort of life. For at least sixteen hours every day, they slept on the roof, curled up like spaniels, and covered by matting. Eating, reciting their prayers, and reading or copying small portions of the Koran, filled up the rest of their time, with rare exceptions. The sailors had tried them at the oars, but they were of little use, and were soon allowed to return to their much-loved repose. As one only had ever left home before, it might have been ex- pected that their curiosity would have been awakened; but they regarded everything, except the doings of the family, with a listless eye. The curious habits, dress, and appearance of the white strangers, over- came their natural apathy, and formed a constant theme of conversation. Charles put a New Testa- ment, in Arabic, into their hands. It was read for half an hour, and then returned with thanks. They did not appear to fear perusing it because it was an heretical book, but they gave it up because they did not like the trouble. One day it was declined on the plea that the weather was hot ! Subsequently, how- CURE FOR THE HEADACH. 133 ever, tliey accepted the volume, each engaging to read it quite through ; and the eldest promised, that if he did not like to keep it, he would give it to a Copt Christian. The spy-glass greatly astonished them. They could not be made to understand how distant objects could be brought so close, and they told Daireh in confidence that it was probably an invention of the devil. A large magnifying lens was much admired by them and the whole crew. They successively held out their dark and naked arms to feel the heat of the sun's rays brought into a focus. A small concave mirror, which magnified objects reflected in it, also afibrded them much amusement. Each man, as he saw his gigantic face, turned hastily away, and with difficulty was persuaded to look again. One afternoon, Mustapha was observed cleaning and polishing the metal soup-ladle with peculiar care. It was then handed to one of the Dongolese, who covered the inside of the bowl with writing in neat Arabic characters. The young folks learned it was done for Katterhairack's benefit. He was subject to violent headachs, and as the most effectual means of cure, he drank a thin broth, which washed off the extracts from the Koran written in the ladle. Charles said it was a sure way to digest a difficult passage. Whether the patient was relieved by the singular remedy, may be doubted; but be that as it may, the soup-ladle was afterwards in constant requi- sition for other invalids, and for the time Mr. Dalton's chest of medicine was cast into the shade. The vessel was detained for two or three hours 134 CITY OF ELYTHIAS. while our friends went to examine the remains of the ancient city of Elythias, now called Elkob. The ruins lie near the river, and nothing is left to show that a city ever existed except the usual mounds of rubbish and a wall built of unburnt brick many yards thick. Through a breach made in the side, our travellers entered a square space, about half a mile across. The wall was in tolerable preservation, but it was strange to find that the city and its temples had wholly disappeared. The interior must have been cleared away, while the outer wall was left standing for some special purpose, perhaps for an encamp- ment. Another thing worthy of notice was, that there had been no gates to the town. The only mode of entrance was by an inclined plane on each side, so that the wall was crossed at the summit. There is reason to believe, that the Etruscan city, Fiesole, near Florence, where much of the old wall still remains, was entered in the same manner; and we think it is Josephus who relates that some of the Canaanitish towns taken by Joshua were similarly shut in. The travellers crossed the enclosed space, and pro- ceeded to the tombs excavated in the base of the Mokattan range of hills, about a mile distant. Their path lay through the sandy desert. It was covered with a number of very small circular holes, so formed as to look like the inside of an inverted cone. They were the dwelling-places and traps of a very singular insect, called, we believe, the Ant-Lion. It is very slow in its movements, except when hiding itself in the sand, which it can do in an instant. As it cannot hope to catch its prey by superior speed, it digs the TOMBS OF ELKOB. 135 hole we have mentioned; the sand is piled round with beautiful regularity, and gradually slopes off to the surface. Woe to the ant or other insect which trespasses too near the^ fatal snare ! Directly it comes to the edge, the sand gives way, and it slides to the bottom, where the ant-lion lies completely concealed. The poor captive exhausts itself by trying to climb up the sides. Every attempt to escape is useless, and it falls a prey to its artful destroyer. The tombs were most remarkable. They consist of several chambers excavated in the rock, and are supposed to be of extreme antiquity. Two of them possess peculiar interest, as the walls are covered with paintings representing many of the employments and amusements of the Egyptians more than three thousand years ago. They are now much injured, and some of the subjects are nearly destroyed, but enough was left to furnish the family with an hour's very agreeable study. All the occupations of rural life are depicted. In some cases, a strong resemblance to the instruments and mode of culture still employed is discernible. The plough, for example, is an exact counterpart to one they had seen in use the day before. A boat is being drawn along just in the same way as their own had been towed up the river. In one department, a man is busily employed catching birds ; and in another, some fishermen are using their nets, while other men are splitting and salting the fish. The drawing of the whole is spirited, although pos- sessing the usual faults of that early period. Where the colours have not been disturbed, they are still fresh. It was grievous to see how rapidly this re- markable series of designs is disappearing, from care- 136 ESNEH AND ITS TEMPLE. lessness or wanton injury. The subjects are defaced by numerous scratches, and some have been cut out of the wall. The Bedouin makes the tombs his abode in the winter, and lights a fire in them without cere- mony. A few years hence, and nothing but the excavations will be left. Such is the fate of Egyptian antiquities : no sooner are they discovered, than their fate is sealed. In a few short years they are nearly destroyed. By seven o'clock the next morning, our travellers had reached Esneh, and after an early breakfast, they hired donkeys, and rode into the town. The Pasha had returned to Cairo, and an ofier was made to show them over his palace, but it did not appear that it was worth the trouble. In the centre of the town is one of the finest of the old temples : it is completely sur- rounded by the rubbish of ages, which has reached nearly to the top of the roof. The portico has, how- ever, been excavated and cleared, as a storehouse for the Pasha, and there is some talk of emptying the interior. Some curious inquirer has had a few cart- loads of dust removed from it by one of the small side doors, and the few feet laid bare of the inner walls prove that it is beautifully ornamented. Charles ventured in as far as he could. Over his head was a mass of rubbish, not less than forty feet thick. The least touch brought down a portion in clouds of dust, and he hurried away that he might not be buried alive. He brought with him some pieces of old baskets, which must have been deposited there many centuries ago, and although they crumbled to the touch, yet, such is the extreme dryness of the air, that they remained unaltered in appearance. The columns AXCIEXT ASTRONOMY. 137 supporting the portico arc extremely beautiful, espe- cially the capitals, which are all different in pattern. Some, formed by representations of the leaves of the lotus, or water-lily of Egypt, are peculiarly graceful. On the ceiling of the portico are several signs of the zodiac, closely resembling in design those which now figure on our celestial globes. It is remarkable how much progress has been made by various nations in the profound and difficult science of astronomy, while other branches- of human knowledge have remained in their infancy. It is well known that the old Egyptians were excellent astronomers, and so have been the Chinese from time immemorial. The Mexi- c:ms also calculated the true length of the solar year, with a precision unknown to the great philosophers of antiquity, long before they had any communication with the Old World. When our travellers left the temple and returned into the market-place, they were accosted by two or three of the Alme, or dancing-girls of Egypt, who offered to exhibit before them. Mr. Dalton had heard that some of their performances were very question- able, and declined the proposal. They were showily dressed, and their foreheads, cheeks, and necks, were adurncd with a profusion of small coins, chiefly of gold, strung in rows. Their skin was fairer than that of the natives, b'ut the colour on their cheeks was probably artilicial. They made no attempt to con- ceal their faces, and had a bold and impudent look. A few years ago, the l-*asha ordered that all the Alme should be banished to ICsneh, in consequence of the evil effects resulting from their licentious performances. It is dlliicult to imagine how they manage to live in such 138 DANCING-GIRLS. ' a poor and miserable place. They have generally been slaves .brought from Circassia, and, when in Cairo, ..tbeir gains .were considerable. It ,was not uncommon for .those, who were highly gratified by a successful, performance, to fix a number of the very small gold -coins .of the country over their forehead and. checks. . One of these poor women, named Sofie, - is remarkable , for tlie skill with which she tells a story by. pantomimic action. •^::.Some of .our young., readers may remember a:tale, in-.. the f Arabian .Nights', Entertainments, of a poor >v.oinan, whose son, finds a large, amount of gold, and wbo:borrows a measure of her neighbour to ascertain the.> .quantity.. .The lender, curious to learn what corn •a;personrso poor. can have .to measure, rubs a little grease'; at., the -..bottom,: and when it is returned, she finds, to her great astonishment, some pieces of money 'sticking . there. "..Charles used to think that it -was not' likely, that :any coin would adhere to the grease, or'.vpass unobserved, but his doubts were removed when: he saw, in .Egypt, pieces of money, of pure gold, not worth more than a shilling. They arc so thin and small, that care must be taken not to pay. away two instead of one, a.^ they lie very close together. ■ When Mr. Dalton prepared for his Nile voyage, he was advised to carry with him plenty of small coins, as the poor people are never al)le to give change. He 'pro\dded 'nearly sixty pounds' weight of co])per money in. five-para pieces,- and some piastres and half piastres in an alloy of. silver, as well as some of the little gold. coins. Tlie five-para pieces were useful iu'-more .wavs! than jone. Such is the childish cha- COIN OF EGYPT. 139 racter of the people, ^nat payments or presents in many coins pleased them much more than if made in one piece of larger value. A sailor would joyfully accept a dozen five-para pieces, in return for a day's attendance on shore, as a guard, while double the amount in silver would have been thought hardly a sufficient recompence. In walking through the bazaar of Esneh, our tra- vellers noticed some of the Arnaout soldiers, in the Pasha's service, dressed in their handsome and very picturesque costume. They belong to a regiment of bold and unscrupulous ruffians, gathered from all nations, principally from Greece. Mehemet Ali has not been able to keep them under proper discipline in time of peace, and they are therefore spread in small detachments all over Egypt. They are employed to frighten those who are not regular in payment of taxes, and to aid the local governors in any case of emergency. The poor fellahs hold them in great dread, as their conduct is marked by tyranny, and even cruelty. Charles was struck with the beautiful workmanship of the large silver-mounted pistols and dagger which they carried in their belt. No Arnaout is satisfied till he possesses a set of these rich and much coveted weapons, and he will rather starve than part with them. On leaving the town, the family went over a cot- ton factory, belonging to government. The calico is coarse and poor. It is woven by hand-looms. The workpeople had a miserable, degraded look, and the taskmaster was present, as usual. Although the cotton grows near at hand, and labour (especially for the Pasha) costs so little, the English manufactures 140 COTTON FACTORY. could, if permitted, undersell the Pasha. Such is the wonderful result of English machinery, aided by the use of steam. The Pasha has tried hard to make Egypt a manufacturing country, but is now slowly learning that he will profit most by exchanging the fruit of its luxuriant soil for the produce of the power- loom of England. The corn harvest of Upper Egypt had now com- menced. Grain is produced in an abundance which would astonish an English farmer. Mr. Dalton more than once plucked a group of twenty or more large ears of wheat, the produce of a single grain. It is thrashed directly it is cut, and as the fellah is at harvest-time called on to pay the heavy tax on the land, he is compelled to sell the produce to the government at a low price. The Pasha stores it in enormous granaries, and either resells, at a great profit, on the spot, or sends it to Alexandria or Eosetta, for exportation, or to Cairo, to supply the markets. Much of his revenue is derived from trading in the necessaries of life, and as he arbitrarily fixes the price for what he purchases, and the deep poverty of the people forces them to sell, it may be conjec- tured that he carries on a profitable, if not an honour- able commerce. "The Home" was now approaching the most in- teresting spot in Upper Egypt. It was within a few hours of Thebes, but the travellers were unwilling to pass any object of interest, and therefore they had it moored to the shore, at the nearest point to Erment, the ancient Hermonthis. The remains of the temple are situated about two miles from the shore. After Edfou and Esneh, it did not appear to advantage; VISIT TO A PRISON. 141 and, indeed, but little is left in a perfect state. One large chamber, still covered by the roof, is now used as a prison. Admittance was readily granted, and on the ground five poor men were found lying, one being fastened to the wall by a heavy chain : they were all confined because they had not paid their taxes. One man owed seven piastres, or about eighteen-pence ; another, he that was chained, four hundred. Imprison- ment is the ordinary method employed to make the fellahs pay up their arrears. Daireh said that it was not improbable that all of them could raise the money directly, but many think, and with reason, that if they part with what is claimed too easily, they will be more heavily taxed next year; so they allow themselves to be sent to prison. Once a week, they are brought before the governor, and threatened with a flogging ; they then ask leave to go to their friends, to borrow what is owing; they return ^vith part, and, sooner or later, suffer the whole amount to be squeezed out of them. The walls of the prison are profusely orna- mented with bas-reliefs, some of the designs of which are very curious. There is a procession of hippopo- tami, all gravely walking on their hind legs. Another chamber of the same temple now forms part of the governor's house, and near at hand is a circular basin, lined with stone, with the remains of a column in the centre, which was probably used in ancient times as a Nilometer.* We have already spoken of the dogs of Egypt. They are one of the greatest annoyances which the traveller meets with; most of them are very cowardly, * A graduated scale, by wLicli the rise of tlie Nile is measured. 142 ATTACK OF DOGS, and are easily driven away with a stick or stone; but one and all bark furiously, and show that they would do more if they dared. Some are really dangerous, and the attendance of two sailors, armed with heavy poles, was always necessary to ward off their attacks. At Erment, they were fiercer than usual, and one great brute displayed peculiar ferocity. An old hag, to whom it belonged, sat at the door of her hut, without an effort to restrain him, till a shower of heavy pieces of stone seemed likely to silence him for ever, and then she called him out of danger. A few nights before, Mr. Dalton had taken a walk alone, the vessel being moored to the shore, when two dogs from the neighbouring village came running towards him. He could not find a stone at hand, and was armed with his stick only. They were not so easily to be repelled, and as his situation was rather critical, he adopted " the better part of valour," dis- cretion, and ran hastily towards the boat. Fortunately Daireh had seen the attack, and he, as well as three or four of the sailors, armed with clubs, jumped on shore, and ran to the rescue, while Mustapha's gun was already aimed at the enemy. In a minute after, the owner made his appearance. These dogs, it appeared, were trained to assist the man in keeping guard over the wharf at night, and unless Mr. Dalton had met with assistance, he would have been placed in an awkward predicament. A pleasant sail of three hours brought our tra- vellers to Luxor, and the boat was moored in a canal, which here branches off from the Nile. ARRIVAL AT THEBES. 143 CHAPTER VII. THEBES OBELISK OF LUXOR SCRAMBLE FOR PARAS TEMPLE OF LUXOR KARNAC CHAMBERS OF IMAGERY HALL OF PILLARS RAVAGES OF THE PERSIANS GIGANTIC STATUE STATUES OF MEMNON DEALERS IN ANTIQUITIES MEDINET ABOU TOMBS OF THE QUEENS MUMMY CAVES SEARCH FOB A MUMMY — VALLEY OF TOMBS BELZONl'S SARCOPHA- GUS TEMPLE OF GOURNOU DEPARTURE FROM THEBES TEMPLE OF DENDERAH KENEH PALACE OF MEMNOX CATACOMBS OF SIOUT. The city of Thebes was one of the largest and most important of Ancient Egj'pt. It was situated on both sides of the Nile, and is said to have been more than twenty miles in circumference; Luxor, Karnac, Gournou, and Medinet Abou, were all included in the old boundaries. They are now four miserable villages, some miles apart, but all possessing magnifi- cent specimens of the grandeur of Old Thebes. Twenty- seven centuries ago. Homer thus sung of the mighty city : — " Not all proud Thebes' unrivalled walls contain, The world's great empress on the Egyptian plain; That spreads her conquests o'er a thousand states, And pours her heroes through a hundred gates. Two hundred horsemen aud two hundred cars. From each wide portal issuing to the wars." 144 THEBES. It is singular, however, that no remains either of gates or walls have been found, after diligent search. Perhaps reference is here made to the gates which divided the city into a hundred quarters or districts. They are still used for that purpose in all the large eastern cities, being closed at night, and guarded by porters : so that in crossing Cairo, for example, after nine o'clock, the passenger has to pay his way through, perhaps, a dozen of such barriers. The origin of Thebes is lost in the obscurity of extreme antiquity, and but little is known of its early history. It is supposed to have been founded by the mighty conqueror, Sesostris, who is believed to. have flourished previous to the captivity of the patriarch Joseph, in Egj'pt. The recent discovery of a method by which hieroglyphics can be deciphered has already tended to throw much light on the subject ; but pro- bably many years will elapse before the chronology of the history of the country will be ascertained, if it be ever clearly settled. But few centuries had passed after the universal deluge before it became a powerful empire, and far in advance of the rest of the world in arts and sciences. The early Greeks acquired most of their knowledge from the Egyptians, and it is sup- posed that Sesostris was the ruler over the greater part of Asia. It is remarkable that while so many of the temples of Thebes remain in a tolerably perfect condition, almost all traces are lost of other less important build- ings. If they had been substantially constructed, they could not have mouldered into dust, from the effect of time and weather; for where man has not destroyed, the temples remain almost as perfect as when first THEBES. 145 erected. It is therefore reasonable to conclude that the ordinary habitations of the Thebans were little better than the miserable dwellings of the modern Egyptians. Probably the Avealth and power of the country were entirely devoted to the services of a false religion. The priests monopolized all the learning of the times, and illustrated in a striking manner that knowledge is power. If this theory be correct, we can in some measure account for the extreme magni- ficence and grandeur of these wonderful remains ; but if, on the other hand, we reflect that they were erected at a time when the world might be said to have been in its infancy, and that during the last two thousand years nothing has been produced which can rival the temple of Karnac in magnitude or magnificence, our wonder remains undiminished. Machinery must have existed, of which we have no record or conception, or how could masses of stone weighing a hundred tons be raised to the top of columns sixty or seventy feet high ? There must, too, have been great knowledge of chemistry, for the colours employed in the decora- tion of the interior are still as bright as ever. Much skill in tempering metal must have been acquired, for the hard granite, and much harder porphyry, are minutely sculptured, while columns, ceilings, and walls, are covered with a boundless profusion of bas- reliefs, all cut with extreme accuracy. The temples of Upper Egypt, and the wondrous pyramids of Sak- kara and Ghizeh, alike show how vain a thin^ is human ambition. The mighty sovereigns who pro- jected thera, very probably did not live to see their completion, and the very names of these " imniortaV heroes are forgotten. 146 OBELISK OF LUXOR. The travellers first visited the Temple of Luxor, which stood within a hundred yards of their boat. A number of Arabs had offered themselves as guides; it was evident that they could be of no service, and, as Daireh said, they knew much less of what they offered to show than the stranger they wished to con- duct through the ruins; but as it was not likely that they would give up the hope of being employed, one was engaged, and the rest informed that they were not required. At least half a dozen, however, added themselves to the party, in hopes of coming in for some share of the backsheesh. On each side of the grand entrance stood, till very lately, an obelisk of granite, partly buried in the sand, but still rising to a height of sixty feet. One of them was removed by the French, a few years ago, and is now placed in the Place de la Concorde, at Paris. It is calculated to weigh five hundred thousand pounds, is seventy-six feet high, and formed out of one block of rose-coloured granite. The cost of its removal from its ancient site, and its erection in its present position was immense. A canal was dug from the river to its base, and it was lowered at once into the vessel constructed on purpose to carry it down the Nile. The French engineers pride themselves on the skill and science employed in transferring the mighty mass to their beloved Paris, but this obelisk is less than two-thirds the size of one which stands before the church of St. John Lateran, in Rome. There are three others in the " eternal city," which are of nearly equal magnitude, and seven of smaller dimensions, all brought from Egypt by the old Romans. The Pasha A SCRAMBLE FOR PARAS. 147 offered the obelisk still standing at Luxor to the English government, but it was not willing to incur the heavy expense of its removal. Behind the obelisk, and close to the Propylon, are two gigantic figiires, in red granite, sadly mutilated, and more than half buried in the sand. Twenty feet of the upper part of each are yet above the surface. The Propylon is nearly two hundred feet wide, and more than sixty feet high. It is covered with sculp- ture, and, as at Edfou, a gigantic warrior is repre- sented engaged in the slaughter of his enemies. On one side, he stands in a car drawn by two spirited horses, who are trampling down the conquered foe, while he is about to discharge his bow among their ranks. In the other, the enemy is represented in full flight, and in the utmost confusion, while he stands alone amidst a heap of the slain. Our travellers, assisted partly by the piles of rub- bish and fallen stones which lie at the back of the Propylon, and partly by a broken staircase, managed to gain the top. They had a splendid view of the Thebaic plain^ on which the magnificent ruins of Karnac, about two miles distant, stood pre-eminent. A growd of men and boys gathered below, vociferat- ing for backsheesh. Charles begged a few five-para pieces of his father, and heartily enjoyed the scramble that followed. He dropped them down one by one, and they buried themselves in the sand as they fell. Twenty or thirty people threw themselves on the spot in a confused mass, and dug with their hands for the hidden treasure. While it was very amusing to wit- ness their great eagerness, there was something painful l2 148 TEMPLE OF LUXOR. in the remembrance of the deep poverty that made these poor fellows so anxious to gain possession of a coin worth no more than a farthing. Behind the Propylon stands the Dromos, or great court, surrounded by a portico, supported by a double row of columns. They are still tolerably perfect towards the river, and the view of them from the shore is very striking, although a considerable portion of the shafts is buried in the soil. As they recede from the Propylon, the rubbish increases in height, and the miserable village of Luxor, built among the columns, and filling up the sanctuary of the temple, hides almost all but the capitals from the eye. Many of the huts have their mud walls covered by a mass of stone many feet thick; and sheep and goats were feeding amidst the most magnificent specimens of ancient art. The sanctuary of the temple is covered deeper than any other part, and so debased with filth and rubbish as to be hardly accessible. An Italian dealer in antiquities has appropriated part of it for his shop and dwelling-place, and built some chambers, supported by beams of the palm, under its roof. Having managed to shake off their train, the family took a pleasant walk in the neighbouring fields. At a short distance from the village, they found an encampment of the alme, or dancing girls, who had come from Esneh, in the hopes of picking up a trifle from the Frank travellers. In the evening, they came down to the shore, and, unasked for, gave a specimen of their performance. It was neither objectionable nor attractive, nor could it be considered as dancing, being nothing more than a rather slow movement of the body to the monotonous sound of a small drum KARNAC. 149 antl a pipe. Their indelicate exhibitions are reserved for a more private display. The next day, being Sunday, was quietly passed, and on Monday morning, after an early breakfast, the Daltons proceeded to Karnac. Passing by the Obelisk of Luxor, they went in a direct line, through a sandy plain, to one of the principal entrances to the temple. A fox crossed their path before they reached it, and they saw one or two more in the ruins. Like the mountain of Zion, they are desolate, and foxes w^alk among them.* It is related that two Jewish rabbins were cross- ing Zion hill, in Jerusalem, and saw a fox run by : one wept at the sight, while the other cheerfully smiled. He who had laughed inquired the cause of the other's tears. "How can I help weeping," he replied, " when I see the threatenings against our holy city so exactly fulfilled f — " And for that reason I rejoice," said the other; "for the prophecies of its glorious restoration are equally plain and numerous ; and as the punishment has been literally executed, we may the more certainly expect the accomplishment of the promises." Our travellers turned aside a little to the left, to see the extensive saltpetre works, carried on by the Pasha. The inexhaustible building rubbish from the temple is carried there and soaked in water, being well stirred up in large tanks, and left to settle. The liquid is then drawn off into a number of shallow pits, where it soon evaporates, from the heat of the sun. When but little is left, it is transferred into pans, and * Lamentations, v. 18. 150 KARNAC. boiled till it crystalizes into saltpetre. Large quan- tities, wliich are used in the government powder manufactory, are produced in this way. One of the workpeople came up to Mr. Dalton, and offered a small bronze head for sale, which he had just found in the rubbish. He disposed of it for a few piastres, and both parties were well j^leased with the transac- tion. Another man had a number of beautiful agates, which were also purchased for a farthing apiece. They abound in the neighbourhood, and Charles picked up twenty or thirty more in the course of the morning. Returning to the road they had lately quitted, they soon reached the shattered remains of the Avenue of Sphinxes : it once reached from the temple of Karnac to that of Luxor. These enormous creatures, formed of stone, are in a couchant posture, and placed at a distance of about twenty feet apart: they are con- siderably larger than a full-grown elephant. Not one is in a perfect state, and of many, nothing but the pedestal is left, while others are nearly buried in the sand. Our readers may form some idea of the grandeur of Old Thebes, by learning that each of the four principal entrances to the Temple of Karnac was approached by a similar avenue. One alone, leading to Luxor, contained sixteen hundred sphinxes, and it is calculated that not less than four thousand were employed in the whole. The effect produced by a long procession of priests, preceded by the animals for sacrifice, and followed by a countless number of worshippers, as it passed along this magnificent road, must have been indescribably grand. The family had now arrived at a stupendous Pro- CHAMBERS OF IMAGERY. 151 pylon, still remaining in a very perfect condition ; it is covered with liieroghq^hics, beautifully cut. They then turned off to the left, so as to enter the temple by the west, or principal entrance, which faces the river, and is exactly opposite to a temple on the other side. They passed near the paltry village of Karnac, and were speedily surrounded by several women and children, while a number of dogs kept up a noisy chorus of barking. Their guide first took them into two very large halls, covered with an infinity of hieroglyphics, and almost dark. The only light admitted was by a small hole near the roof. It happened, fortunately, that the sun was shining at the time in that direction, and they were able, after their eyes had a little recovered from the glare of light they had left, to see the interiors to great advan- tage. Charles and Emily had provided themselves with some coarse but porous wrapping paper. Two or three sheets laid together were well softened by water, and being placed on a bas-relief, were gently and repeatedly struck with the soft hair of a hat- brush. The paper quickly yielded to the pressure, and at last closely touched every part of the subject. It was then carefully removed, and dried in the sun. By this simple process, they were enabled to take accurate copies of many portions of the wall. It is not fully known for what- purpose these dark but highly ornamented halls were used, but probably they were employed for the secret rites of heathen worship. There can be little doubt that it was to such dark " chambers of imagery" the prophet Ezekiel refers.* The description of what he saw in his vision * Ezekiel, cbap. viii. 152 CHAMBERS OF IMAGERY. exactly applies to these mysterious apartments, " Every form of creeping things and abominable beasts, and all the idols of the house of" Egypt are " portrayed on the wall round about." The travellers then proceeded to the great pro- pylon, which is four hundred feet long, and more than forty feet in thickness. On each side are the remains of a colossal granite figure, as at Luxor. Having climbed over some heaps of rubbish which hide the base, they stood to gaze in wonder at the scene before them. Looking across a spacious court, surrounded by massive columns, with the remains of some of ofreater magnitude in the centre, the Hall of Pillars, the great wonder of Karnac, was partly seen through the gate of the Pylon. Beyond, were three gigantic obelisks ; and in the far distance, the small sanctuary of the temple, backed by another court of columns, a propylon, &c. The distance from the west entrance to the east is more than a quarter of a mile; and when it is considered that the whole space is covered with beautifully sculptured portals, columns, obelisks, and buildings of enormous magnitude, some faint notion may be formed of this marvellous structure. It is related by Denon, that when the French army first saw it, the soldiers stood still, as if they had been electrified; and Belzoni declares that the most sublime ideas which can be formed from the most magnificent specimens of modern architecture would give a very inadequate conception of the scene. On the right of the great court is another of less extent, which contains numerous small chambers, probably once used as the habitations of the priests. Dr. Leipsius, the agent of the Prussian government, ^ '¥ .AIR If AC KARNAC. 153 lately spent some months at Karnac, and had one fitted up as his residence. This gentleman zealously performed the commission entrusted to him, and the museum of Berlin is no doubt greatly enriched by the collection of antiquities he has made; but he per- formed his task in the most reckless way, perfectly regardless of the havoc he made in pursuit of his object. Even the Arab guides at Karnac and else- where, indifferent as they are to the destruction around them, sometimes pointed to a greatly-defaced portion of the temple, or tombs, shook their heads, and said " Leipsius !" The family sat a short time to rest in one of the chambers, and in removing a stone for Mrs. Dalton to sit on, a lively scorpion, of a light grey colour, and more than two inches long, was discovered. They abound in ruins ; and in the summer may be found under every great stone. There is also no want of bats ; and some boys brought a number clinging to each other, and hanging down in a long string. They seemed perfectly bewildered by the light, and squeaked pitifully. When placed separately on the ground, they were unable to use their long wings, and lay quite helpless. After lunch, our party went into the Hall of Pillars, which surpassed in interest all they had yet seen. It is more than three hundred feet long, and one hundred and sixty feet broad. It contains one hundred and thirty-four columns, nearly eleven feet in diameter, and about seventy feet high. They are covered with sculpture, richly painted; and the colours are in many places still bright. The capitals are of enormous magnitude, and very varied in design. 154 HALL OF PILLAES. The roof, wliicli is constructed of great blocks of stone, at least seven feet thick, is also highly orna- mented. As the builders were not able to procure, or perhaps could not raise masses of a greater length than thirty feet, and had no means of supporting them but by the columns, they were compelled to use a larger number of the latter than possibly would otherwise have been employed. The avenue through the centre, which is wide, has therefore been left uncovered. Almost all the columns are standing; but one or two have lost their perpendicular, and are leaning against others. The general effect of this forest of pillars is most remarkable and impressive. There were originally four obelisks standing be- tween the portico and the sanctuary. One has fallen, and lies in fragments near its base. The loftiest of those that remain is ninety feet high; it is of a single block of granite, and the largest of any now left in Egypt. The sanctuary, not more than twenty feet square, is built of granite, highly polished, and the ceiling is covered with stars. We will not j^ursue our description of this marvellous temple further than to add, that every part of it is finished with the utmost care, and with a lavish outlay of labour and material. Much of it lies in ruins, and the masses which strew the ground are so prodigious as to obstruct the general view; it requires a careful examination to discover the fact that it has been built on a regular plan. There are four grand propylons at the cardinal points of the compass, and eight lesser gates. Mr. Dalton and his son visited Karnac again the following day, taking Emily with them; while she RAVAGES OF THE PERSIANS. 155 tried to sketch a part of the great portico, they mounted one of the propylons, and had a bird's-eye view of the whole. They also got on to the top of the portico, and were better able to appreciate the grandeur and magnitude of ^he capitals of the pillars and the stones employed in the roof. The more they examined into the details, the greater were their admi- ration and surprise. A long series of successive dynasties of the rich and powerful monarchs of Eg}q)t had lavished their wealth in adorning the city of Thebes, and it had arrived at the height of its glory, when Cambyses, the Persian, continuing the career of conquest his father Cyrus had commenced, invaded the country. Memphis first fell a prey to the ravages of the con- queror, and not long after, he took possession of Thebes. This happened rather more than five cen- turies before the Christian era. Incited partly by revenge and partly by contempt for the idols of the Egj-ptians, Cambyses not only desecrated their altars by sacrificing on them the animals they were accus- tomed to worship, but did his utmost to destroy their temples. As the traveller makes his way through the ruins, he sees that all which lies under his feet has been overturned by violence, and that fire has been employed to deface the granite statues and obelisks. But the work of destruction was too mighty for the Persian, and he was obliged to content himself with partially effecting his object. It is fortunate that he was not acquainted with the all-powerful agent employed in modern warfare. With a few barrels of gunpowder, he could have done more in a week 156 GIGANTIC STATUE. than his whole army could have effected in a year, and little would have been left to show what Thebes once was. The family left the temple by the southern gate. To the right and left wckc the remains of numerous statues of red granite, much defaced, and nearly buried. One of gigantic magnitude, a figure in a sitting posture, stands near the portal. Charles climbed into his lap ; and as he sat there, his com- paratively Lilliputian size showed plainly how enor- mous its proportions were. The ground for some distance was strewed with other remains, and it was evident that more were buried beneath the soil. The wind was unusually high as the party returned to the boat, and the dust flew in dense clouds. As they drew near to Luxor, they noticed a large market held under the ruins. The people could hardly be seen for the dust, which completely covered their goods, but they paid little attention to the inconvenience. The wind continued so high, that it was not pos- sible for the sailors to row their unwieldy vessel across the river; but on Wednesday morning the family went over in a rude ferry-boat. A number of people provided with donkeys were waiting on the shore, and almost fought for the honour and profit of escorting the travellers to Medinet Abou. Having mounted, they first went to the two colossal statues which sit in solitary majesty in the centre of a plain. They are usually called the two Memnons, and by the Arabs, Dama and Shama; but according to Cham- poUion, who has deciphered the hieroglyphics sculp- tured at the sides, they represent the King Ameno- STATUES OF MEMNON. 157 phis, wlio placed them in front of a magnificent edifice he erected in Thebes nearly seventeen centuries before the Christian era. Their height is more than sixty- feet, and they are formed out of single blocks of grey sandstone brought from the quarries of the Thebaid. One of these statues excited the wonder of the ancients, by its giving forth musical sounds at sunrise. Much discussion has taken place in explanation of the remarkable phenomenon, but nothing satisfactory has been elicited by the inquiries. The fact cannot be doubted, for the statue is covered with numerous inscriptions in Greek and Latin, recording the visit of eminent persons, who attest that they heard the music. Among them is the name of the Emperor Adrian. The upper part of the figure was broken off, and lay before it for some centuries. It is generally supposed that it was mutilated by order of Cambyses ; but there is some reason to believe that it was the result of an earthquake, B.C. 27, which may also have assisted in the injury done to the Theban temples. The musical powers of the statue were not injured, however, nor did they cease till the figure was restored to its original form by Septimus Severus. Some have thought the sounds were pro- duced by the agency of the priests, and others that they were caused by the effect of the sun's rays on the stone when moistened with the night-dews. Per- haps it acquired its name of Memnon, who was said to be the son of Titon and Aurora, from the fancy that it saluted his mother at the break of day. Female figures are sculptured on the sides of each statue ; they look diminutive by comparison, but are nearly three times the natural height. 158 DEALERS IN ANTIQUITIES. Wliile the travellers were examining these colossal remains, a number of the neighbouring villagers gathered round, each carrying a basket of antiquities for sale. Some of their commodities were curious. One was a dealer in fragments of the human mummy, and had an assortment of arms, legs, and a head or two, as his stock in trade. He was a persevering fellow, and followed the party for more than an hour, poking one limb or other almost into the face of each by turns, and gradually lowering his price. Another had a large assortment of mummy cloth, the linen employed in wrapping up the bodies. It was of various colours, and part of it was of beautiful texture, apparently as perfect as when first woven, but in reality so rotten as hardly to bear handling. There were also pieces of stamped leather, embossed in various patterns, exactly in the same way as it is now used in binding books; slippers made of a kind of rush, bits of painted mummy-cases, little idols of earthenware, strings of beads, small vases turned out of a very white stone, mummy cats, neatly wrapped in linen, scarabei, Roman coins, and various other matters. Nothing among them was of any great value or rarity. A Greek on this side the water, and an Italian on the other, manage to secure almost every- thing worth having, and sell them to Frank travellers at extravagant prices. Mr. Dalton called on the former, who lives at Gournou. On entering the yard before his house, the first objects which attracted his eye were eight ghastly, shrunken, and nearly black human bodies, standing in a line against the wall. They had been stripped of the ornaments and multi- farious wrappers which three thousand years ago had MEDINET ABOU. 159 been bestowed on them by the pious care of their relations and friends, and were now jDrobably destined to be consumed instead of firewood; the spices and bituminous matter used to preserve them from decay rendering them combustible. " To what base uses may we not return !" If the travellers had not seen the temples of Luxor and Karnac so lately, they would have been better able to appreciate the grandeur and beauty of that of Medinet Abou. It is very large, and the sculpture on the walls is peculiarly interesting. In one compartment, a man is employed counting the hands cut off the conquered enemy, and almost all the subjects celebrate the victories of some great conqueror. They are executed w4th much spirit, and show no small skill in the artist; but at the same time they prove how low and debased were the ideas of the ancient Egyptian with regard to his gods. Scenes of war, bloodshed, and cruelty, in every form, were, to their minds, the most suitable embellishment for the buildings devoted to religious worship. In the Dromos, or great court, another temple has been erected at a much later period, probably by the Romans. They have not scrupled to use part of the materials of its predecessor in the construction, and it is curious to see portions of hieroglyphics and other sculpture built into the walls. Their work wants the amazing solidity of the original temple, and is in a very dilapidated state. The rubbish of ages has accumulated under the colonnade of the court, which is remarkable for its magnificence, and in some parts reaches almost to the roof. 160 TOMBS OF THE QUEENS. Close at hand is one of the very few remains in Egypt, which may with any certainty be called a palace. It rises two or three stories high, is con- nected with the temple, and the windows are not very different from those in a modern mansion. In some cases they ai:>pear to have had stone balconies under them. In the front there is a representation of a female playing on a harp. The guides said that it was a royal palace, but more probably it was the dwelling place of the high-priest. An extensive catacomb, called the Tombs of the Queens, was next visited. The excavations are very considerable, but they did not detain our travellers long, as they are of much less importance than those they hoped to see the next day. The whole neigh- bourhood was strewed with the remains of mummies, lying about in hideous disorder. The number of human beings entombed in this region is incalculable. Some have estimated them at eight or nine millions, but that must be mere conjecture. The ground is full of holes, made by the Arabs in rifling the mummy- pits. Their very dwellings were formerly the man- sions of the dead, and every day fresh discoveries are made, and new pits ransacked. The people are of a very wild and savage character, depending for sub- sistence on what they can find in this way, rather than on regular industry. The family entered into some of the caves, which presented a strange con- trast, in their highly ornamented sides and roof, to the abject condition of their inhabitants. One, of considerable extent, had a portion of the floor sur- rounded by a mud wall about two feet high. At the MUMMY CAVES. 161 bottom lay a dirty mat; it was the sleeping place of a large family. Mr. Dalton wished to purchase a mummy, as a memorial of his visit to Thebes, and, through Daireh, made many inquiries for one. He desired to have it with the outer case unopened, but soon found that he was not likely to procure one worth sending to England. The Greek had two or three, for which he asked a hundred dollars each; on close examina- tion, it was not difficult to discover that they had all been opened, and closed again with great care. The people are so poor, that when they find one of importance, they cannot wait for a purchaser, but strip it of the ornaments, and dispose of them piece- meal. But few are discovered inclosed in wooden cases, and they are always persons of great distinc- tion. Others of less note are neatly sewed up in canvas, which is painted over with hieroglyphics, while the great majority are not ornamented in any way. Just as our travellers were returning to the boat, after finishing the morning's excursion, by going to a pretty little temple, dedicated to Athor (Venus), at some distance to the north, a man came up, and said that he had found a very fine mummy, only three days before, which he wished to sell. Mr. Dalton went with him to a pit about eight feet deep, into which they both descended. A cave, to which it led, was nearly filled by the mummy; the outer case had been opened, and Mr. Dalton saw at a glance that it had been much handled. The lid being lifted off*, the inner case was seen in good condition, and painted with M 162 SEARCH FOR A MUMMY. such care as to prove that it enclosed no ordinary person. It was necessary to see whether it had been opened, but the man refused to have it taken out; at last he consented so far as to lift it up at one end. A crack was visible all round, showing the junction between the lid and the lower part; this looked suspi- cious, but was said to be occasioned by the jar given to it, when removed from its original position. A closer examination, however, betrayed the fatal marks of a small chisel, used in forcing it open, and although the man at once lowered his demand from eighty to twenty dollars, Mr. Dalton declined the purchase. It was of much more value than the latter sum, but it was not worth while to incur the expense and trouble of transmitting it to England unless it had been untouched. The next day was devoted to the Valley of Tombs, one of the most interesting and remarkable spots in Egypt. A hot ride of more than an hour brought our travellers to the mountains which enclose it. Nothing could exceed the dreariness of the road on which they now entered. High barren rocks shut them in on each side. Their path lay through a wilderness of sand, scattered with huge fragments of stone, which had rolled down from above. Scarcely a blade of vegetation was visible, and the sun's beams, pouring down on their heads and reflected by the hills, were hardly bearable. The heat of that valley in the summer must be past endurance. Having proceeded for some distance, they reached a still more confined space, and arrived at the region where the "kings and counsellors of the earth built desolate j^laces VALLEY OF TOMBS. 163 for themselves."* The tombs have been excavated principally on the right side of the valley, and after receiving their tenants, great care was taken to conceal the entrances, nor was it difficult to hide the small unadorned portals with loose earth and stones. Long before the Christian era, most of them had been broken into by the conquerors of Egypt, and their royal tenants disturbed, for the sake of the treasures which were buried with them. They now stand open, and in every instance have been much defaced by the unscrupulous antiquary or wanton Arab. The first tomb visited by the family was that discovered by Belzoni, nearly thirty years ago. Entering the narrow and unostentatious door, they passed through a long gallery which slopes down- wards. The rock in which it is excavated is hard, and of a remarkably close-grained stone, resembling that used in lithography. The sides are covered with hieroglyphics in small characters, and cut with beautiful precision. It led into a large hall, similarly ornamented. They then descended a staircase, and passing through a long corridor, entered into a chamber of considerable magnitude, which, from the splendour of the embellishments, has been called the Hall of Beauty. Where they have not been defaced, the figures are quite perfect, and the colouring remarkably bright and fresh. Beyond it, our travellers had to go along another corridor, and they finally arrived at the largest hall, where Belzoni found the * Job, iii. 14. M 2 164 VALLEY OF TOMBS. sarcophagus wliicli once contained the body of the Pharaoh for whom this magnificent resting-place was constructed. He had every reason to hope that it still remained undisturbed, for he had been stopped in his progress by finding the end of one of the corridors blocked up and ornamented like the sides, so as to convey the impression that the excavation ended there. But having made his way through the obstruction, and entered the last hall, the sarcophagus was discovered empty, with the lid lying by it, broken in two. A hole in the floor showed that it had been entered by a subterraneous passage made in an opposite direction from the entrance, but the invaders had contented themselves with removing the body and any valuables deposited with it. Some of the larger chambers were supported by square pillars, left standing when the excavations were made; they also were covered with sculpture; but being more easy of access than the walls, they have suffered more. Large portions have been cut away, and two or three were lying in fragments, left there, the guide said, by Leipsius, after an ineffectual attempt to remove them. When Belzoni entered this magnificent tomb, he found it in as perfect a state as when first constructed; now there is scarcely a square foot of bas-relief which is not more or less defaced. The smoke of the torches and candles necessarily used by visitors is also obscuring the bright colours and blackening the roof. It is really grievous that a monument of such surpassing interest, that might have been kept in good order for centuries to come, should be so quickly and shamefully mutilated. The travellers entered several other tombs : one is BELZONI'S SARCOPHAGUS. 165 even greater in extent than that called after Belzoni, but not so richly embellished; others are nearly- choked up at the entrance. Most of them contain an enormous sarcophagus, without ornament or in- scription, and cut out of a block of granite. The ponderous lid lies by its side, generally broken into two or three pieces. The passage leading to the chamber where they are deposited is just large enough for the sarcophagus to go through: it was probably lowered on rollers, and it would be difficult to force them up the inclined plane without widening the space. The beautiful alabaster sarcophagais which Belzoni managed to take out from the great tomb without injury, was sent to England. It is of singular beauty, and nearly transparent, although about three inches thick. He sold it to the late Sir John Soane, for £3000, and it now forms the chief ornament of his museum.* Both the inside and outside are covered %vith sculpture, minutely and admirably executed, containing several hundred figures. The subject represents the funeral obsequies of the deceased, and many captives are introduced in the procession; among them, the Jews are distinguished by their physiognomy, and serve to confirm the opinion of Dr. Young, who deciphered the hieroglyphics, that it once contained the body of Pharaoh-Necho, who invaded Judea in the reign of Josiah.t From the * Sir John Soane left his house in Lincoln's Inn Fields, with all its contents, to the country, and the public are admitted gratuitously during the month of May only, each year. Why it is not always accessible we do not know. It is well worthy of a visit. + 2 Chron. xxxv. 20. 22. 166 TEMPLE OF GOURNOU. number of lialls in this and some other of the tombs, and their elaborate ornaments, it does not seem improbable that jiart of them at least were designed to be used as banqueting-rooms in celebrating the feasts of the dead.* The party, having first taken lunch in one of the tombs, and rested awhile after the labour of exploring so many, returned into the plain, and visited the temple at Gournou, which bears the name of the Memnonium. Near it lie the gigantic fragments of the largest statue in the world. It must have been an arduous task to destroy it. They cover a large space of ground, and the surface of the different parts of the body is but little injured. It is formed of red granite, of so hard a nature that portions are still sent to Cairo to be used in cutting glass. The figure was originally sixty feet high, and weighed two million 23ounds. The ear is three feet long, and the shoulders twenty-two feet across. From thence our travellers proceeded to a very singular subterraneous temple, excavated out of the rock. It is not large, and is decorated in a somewhat similar style to the others, but there is reason to believe that it is even more ancient than those of Karnac or Luxor. The facade, pillars, and some colossal figiires, are all cut out of the live rock. Near it were some very extensive catacombs, into which the party entered. The first chamber is large, but the stench arising from a countless multitude of bats which have taken up their abode in these tombs was so great, that no one but Mr. Dalton was inclined * Psalm cvi. 28. DEPARTURE FROM THEBES. 167 to proceed further, Pro\dcled with lighted candles, he and Daireh followed the guide, who led them through a long j^assage, from which others branched oflf to the right and left. The foul birds of night, disturbed by the intruders, flew about in all directions, sometimes dashing into their faces, and at others putting out the lights. Mr. Dalton proceeded, for several hundred yards, through various passages, and then, descending a flight of steps, traversed an equal number of galleries running underneath the others. It was a perfect labyrinth, and more like the courts and streets of a small town, in extent and number, than a receptacle of the dead. There were a few remains of mummies, but almost all had been carried off. Even in the lower story, the bats were very numerous, and the air was extremely close and hot. He returned to daylight in a profuse perspiration, and sickened by the foul smell. The travellers had not seen half the wonders of Thebes, but it was necessary to economize time, and they decided on leaving on the following morning. In the course of the evening they bought a few trifling antiquities of the people that came down to the boat, but could find nothing of any great value. The agents of the Greek and Italian dealers already mentioned are constantly on the look-out, and the governors of the villages are in their pay, so that they manage to secure everything of importance. Among the purchases were some small figures, very neatly sculptured in stone, in imitation of Egyptian idols. They were e\^dently modern, but marvellously cheap. They bought, also, two small bottles, marked with Chinese characters, and could have secured 168 CHINESE BOTTLES. several more for a mere trifle, but Mr. Dalton thought that they had been brought from Cairo, or elsewhere, for sale. He afterwards regretted that he did not secure the whole, on meeting with the following passage in the Foreign Quarterly Review, No. 52 : — " A curious circumstance is mentioned by Sir J. G. Wilkinson, of some Chinese bottles being found in the tombs of Thebes, mingled with others of native manufacture. They are made of a kind of porcelain, about two inches high, one side presenting a flower, and on the other an inscription, which in two of them consists of five characters — ming, yue, soong, choong, chaou, which is a line taken from one of the poets, and has the pretty interpretation of ' The bright moon shines amidst the firs.' On the other was a different inscription — ' The flower opens, and lo ! another year.' The tombs in which these were found were of the earlier dynasty of Thothenes III., who reigned about the time of Joseph. How great a proof, therefore, is this of the early attention which the Chinese paid to the cultivation of various arts." The family deeply regretted that they could not devote a much longer time to a place so abound- ing in interest, and they felt that if Upper Egypt had nothing worthy of attention except these glorious ruins, they would still have been amply repaid for their long voyage. The increasing heat of the weather, however, reminded them of the advancing spring, and that a journey through Syria was still in prospect. Orders were given to the reis to depart, and, shortly after, the noble temples of Luxor, Karnac, and Gournou, were lost in the distance. TEMPLE OF DENDERAH. 169 The travellers readied Denderah late at night, and before breakfast the next morning they rode about two miles to visit the most beautiful and perfect temple of Upper Egypt. A large number of men and boys were employed in clearing away the sand and rubbish, which had completely choked up the interior. The Pasha is about to make it a store- house for corn, and the noble portico, which has been partly buried for many centuries, is now entirely exposed to view. This temple, dedicated to the Egyptian Venus, is remarkable for its elegance and beauty, nor have the bas-reliefs been greatly muti- lated or destroyed by the hand of the spoiler. The excess of embellishment visible everj'-vvhere is very striking. The pillars, walls, and ceilings, are covered with an infinity of figures and hieroglyphics, and every part of the exterior is similarly ornamented. The mind is lost in wonder while viewing so much skill and labour lavished on a single building. Even a staircase leading to the roof of the temple, recently discovered, has every inch of the side walls and ceiling adorned with delicate sculpture. Our travellers were so much pleased with Den- derah, that they determined to pass the day in examining it more thoroughly. After a hasty survey, they returned to the boat to breakfast; but before their meal was over, the wind changed. It had been unfavourable for several days, and they did not think it prudent to lose the opportunity of proceeding. It was afterwards a subject of much regret that they had given no more time to these beautiful remains, and more especially that they did not see some very curious astronomical figures on the ceiling of a small 170 KENEH. chamber, wliicli have been a subject of much discus- sion among the learned. Daireh and Mustapha begged permission to stop at the town of Keneh, nearly opposite, that they might purchase a number of the earthen jars, or goulahs, here manufactured. To Mr. Dalton's great vexation, they wasted the whole morning in bargain- ing for the pottery, and in a quarrel of Mustapha's with one of the townspeople, which had to be settled before the Cadi. The time thus thrown away could have been pleasantly and profitably spent in another visit to the Temple of Denderah. The favourable wind lasted a few hours only, and three days passed before the boat arrived at Balieneh. Here the travellers again landed, and visited some ruins about four miles distant from the shore, which are said to be the remains of a palace of Memnon. They are very extensive, but the sand has nearly buried all that is left. The people in the neighbourhood bear a bad character; and for the first time Mr. Dalton armed himself with a pair of loaded pistols, stuck into a broad silk sash, which he had bought at Cairo. The guard of sailors was also doubled, and they, as well as Daireh, were well armed. On arriving at the spot, forty or fifty men crowded round the party. They had a peculiarly wild and savage appearance, but they seemed more anxious to offer their services as guides, and to sell a few coins, and other antiquities, found in the ruins, than to commit any act of violence. The most remarkable part of the remains consists of a number of subterraneous vaults with curved roofs, which, it is supposed, were used as apartments during the PALACE OF MEMNON. 171 great heat of summer; tliey are covered witli hiero- glyphics; the roofs look like arches, but must have been constructed before the art of forming an arch was known, for they are only immense blocks of stone laid horizontally, and partly cut away, so as to form a segment of a circle. It is said that the use of the arch was known in Egypt fifteen centuries before the Christian era. If that be the case, this remarkable building must be considerably more than three thousand years old. The next object of interest was the town of Siout, the capital of Upper Egypt. It lies two miles from the river, and the road to it is along a causeway of great antiquity, which rises above the highest over- flow of the Nile. The town was almost lost to sight in a cloud of dust created by the emplojTnent of a large proportion of the population in clearing it of rubbish, by the Pasha's orders. The family were obliged to get to the windward of the poor labourers, who were dimly seen through the haze busily at work. How they could breathe in such an atmo- sphere was a wonder. Leaving the town behind them, the Daltons ascended half way up a range of hills, whose sides contain a countless number of caves excavated for tombs. The mountain, for miles, is pierced with these mansions of the dead, and hundreds of thou- sands of bodies were here deposited: many have been opened recently, and the ground was thickly strewn with fragments of human bodies and shreds of mummy-cloth. Some of the caves are very large, and branch out into chambers, while others seem intended for a single family, and some have room 1 72 siouT. but for one body. Of the city where all this immense multitude lived and died, not a vestige remains. Siout had nothing of interest to detain the travellers; it is large and populous, but, except in size, differs in no respect from the numerous villages on the banks of the Nile. There were the same narrow streets of mud houses — the same crowded bazaar, with its little open shops and paltry assort- ment of goods — the same abject population — and the usual number of ugly hungry dogs. They passed through it as quickly as possible, glad to escape the dust, which was descending everywhere, and returned to the boat. There was nothing in the catacombs they had just left to compare with other tombs lately visited; but the magnificent view from the side of the hill amply repaid them for their trouble. CROCODILE MUMMY-PITS. 173 CHAPTER VIII. CROCODILE MIIMMY-PITS — HIDDEN TREASURE PILGRIMS FROM MECCA QUARRIES OF MASSARA PYRAMIDS OF SAKKARA MUMMY CATTLE CATACOMBS OF BIRDS BOAT-LOAD OF CAMELS — PYRAMIDS OF GHIZEH ASCENT OF THE PYRAMID VIEW FROM THE PYRAMID INTERIOR OF THE PYRAMID BEDOUIN DANCE THE SPHINX END OF THE VOYAGE ADIEU TO THE NILE. By the evening the vessel had dropped down to a village, on the right bank of the river, called El Mahabdie. In the mountains, at some distance to the east, are the celebrated crocodile mummy-pits, into which Mr. Dalton had determined to descend. Some travellers have given a greatly exaggerated account of the difficulties attending the task; and one states, that after two of his guides were sufib- cated, he returned without having succeeded in exploring the pits, leaving their bodies in the cavern. The Sheikh of the village, the only person who is able to act as a guide, declared that he had already been down several times, and was willing to go again, so that there did not appear to be any great danger. Mr. Dalton thought it best, however, that neither of his children should incur the risk. He 174 CKOCODILE MUMMY-PITS. was attended by Daireli and four of the sailors, as well as the Sheikh and his son; all were well armed, as the district through which they had to pass is in rather bad repute. Ha\dng crossed a plain about three miles wide, and passed a village, whose inhabitants turned out in a body to gaze on the strangers, they began to ascend the hill, and after an hour's hard climb they had gained a considerable height. No- thing could be wilder or more barren than the region they were traversing. On a peak, greatly above them, was seen the solitary dwelling of a santon, or hermit, who is held in great veneration. Winding round its base, they soon lost sight of the Nile, and continued their course, for nearly two miles, over several small hills. The valleys between were filled with sand, and there was not a sign of vegetation. On some of the hills the ground sparkled with innumerable crystals, which seemed to grow out of the rocks; none of them were very pure, and but few were colourless. The sun's rays were painfully reflected from the sand and crystals, and the party travelled on for some distance in silence. Suddenly the guide, who was a little in advance, stopped, and pointed downwards. He had reached the mouth of the cavern. Mr. Dalton now made preparation for his descent, by taking off most of his clothes, tying a handkerchief round his head, and putting on a linen blouse which he had brought for the purpose. The guide and his son were lowered down the hole, followed by Mr. Dalton, Daireh, and one of the sailors. Candles were lit, and the guide, lying down on his face, crawled through a cleft in the rock, about eighteen inches high, and CROCODILE MUilMY-PITS. 175 quickly disappeared. The rest followed his example, and proceeding on their hands and knees for a few yards, reached a kind of gallery, some three or four feet high. It was intensely hot, and so filled with nauseous mephitic air, as to be scarcely endurable. The light of the candles was, however, but little affected, and while they burnt freely, there was no great danger. Some little time was required to accustom the explorers to the foul atmosphere: then they went on for some distance, passing by the body of a man, whom the guide said had been suffocated in the pit some years ago. At the end of the gallery was an opening still lower than the first, through which each person had to be pushed or dragged, while he lay flat on his face. It led into a rather lofty natural cavern, hung with long and beautiful stalactites. They had once been transparent, but were now, like the sides of the cave, covered with a thick coating of black, greasy varnish, produced, doubtless, by the concentrated vapours of thirty cen- turies. Some care was necessary to avoid falling into a deep cleft, that yawned at the entrance of the cavern, and which it was necessary to pass over. The guide now tied one end of a ball of cord to a large stone, unrolling the string as he went along, that he might use it as a clue in returning. After clambering over some rugged rocks, he entered another gallery. It contained hundreds of bats, who soon became very troublesome, and the candles were frequently put out in their devious flight. These animals are not at all dangerous, but they are very repulsive, and when one of them settled on Mr. Dalton's face, 176 CROCODILE MUMMY-PITS. hanging by its claws, lie brushed it off with a feeling very nearly allied to horror. Having proceeded for a long distance over very rough ground, strewed with portions of human and crocodile mummies, some- times walking upright, and at others obliged to crawl, the furthermost cavern was entered. It was six or eight yards wide, six feet high, and of considerable length. Here, fetid and unwholesome as was the atmo- sphere, the whole company were glad to rest awhile. They sat down on the ground, which was covered with palm leaves to some depth. By groping among them, Mr. Dalton discovered that they were sitting on a solid mass of crocodiles, closely packed together. The larger were enveloped in the palm leaves, tied round them in much the same way as straw is packed round fish in England. The leaves were quite dry, and he warned all the men of the extreme danger of letting any catch fire: they would have blazed up in a moment, and instant suffocation of the whole party must have been the consequence. The scene presented in the cavern was very sin- gular. The nearly naked Arabs squatted round, each holding a candle in one hand, and wiping the perspi- ration which streamed down from his forehead with the other. The cavern, strewed with leaves and mum- mies, with long stalactites hanging from the roof, was so dimly lighted, that the end was lost in obscurity; and then the reflection that they were some three hundred yards from the entrance, and that three thousand years must have passed since these strange gods of the heathen had been deposited there, — all tended to produce a deep impression on Mr. Dalton's CROCODILE MUMMY-PITS. 177 mind, which he will not easily forget. There were four or five passages branching out from the cavern, and the guide, entering one, returned with a dried child, about eight years old, shrivelled, and perfectly black. It was graciously presented to the khowaga, who, however, refused to accept it. As it lay at his feet, it added to the strangeness of the picture. The crocodiles have been deposited by thousands. The further end of the cave is stuffed to the roof with them, and no one knows how far it extends. They are generally of a small size, not more than eighteen inches long, and are tied up in neat bundles of six, eight, or ten, each wrapped in coarse cloth. The larger ones are separate, and they alone are enveloped in palm leaves. It is probable that the former had been caught and killed, just as they were hatched, and being embalmed, were packed away in distinct families. It was time to depart, the air was so bad as to be scarcely endurable; even the bats had not ventured so far. Selecting one crocodile six feet long, another not quite so large, half a dozen bundles of the juveniles, and a human leg, with a few specimens of the stalactites, easily broken from the roof, the party left the cavern. There was another scramble along the rough and lengthy passages, another skirmish with the bats, another crawl and wriggle through the low clefts, and Mr. Dalton found himself once more in the open air, panting for breath and streaming with perspiration. We have given a rather detailed account of this very remarkable cavern, as it has not been often entered, and till within a very few years was thought N 178 HIDDEN TREASURE. to be unapproachable. In descending the hill, laden with their spoils, the sailors were stopped by a decently dressed man, accompanied by two women; the mummy leg was laid on the ground, and one of the latter repeatedly stepped over it. She had been married for some years, but was without children, and had just paid the santon a visit to beg for his prayers. The meeting with a mummy is considered very fortunate, and she and her husband were de- lighted with the circumstance. To add to her happi- ness, it was Friday, the luckiest day of the week mth the Mussulman, and Daireh, to complete the chain of coincidences, said that his master was a celebrated Frank physician, who had been to the pit to collect mummies for medicine. He knew his master's objec- tion to his inventions too well to let him know what had passed, till the family had left, after kissing Mr. Dalton's hand with great respect. The Sheikh told them that the people of the village believed that his house was full of treasure. They could not under- stand that any Frank would enter the pit but for the purpose of gathering it, and of course he, as the guide, would come in for a good share of the long-concealed spoils. The wind continued contrary, and the progress of the boat down the river was consequently slow. Five days elapsed before it reached the shore opposite to the quarries of El Massara. In the interim, the family had landed at two or three towns on the banks of the river, which contained little worthy of notice, and visited the remarkable tombs at Beni Hassan. Several of them are very large, and contain some curious paintings, while others have never been PILGRIMS FROM MECCA. 179 finished. They stand on a terrace in a commanding position. At a little distance is the deserted village of the same name. The inhabitants had rendered themselves obnoxious to Mehemet Ali, by plundering travellers, and other acts of violence, and a few years ago he sent a troop of soldiers, who drove the people away, and laid the houses in ruins. It is by a few decisive but scarcely justifiable measures of a similar character, that he has made himself feared by the whole country, and exercises an authority the Turkish government never possessed. Not far from Manfalout, the family had an oppor- tunity of seeing a hyaena, which came down to the river early one morning to drink. He was very near the boat, and some fears were entertained for Daireh, who was Avalking on shore. This animal does not, however, attack a man unless extremely hungry, or in self-defence. It is said that it then makes a rush at him ; but as its neck is very thick, it cannot easily turn its head, and if unsuccessful, will not resume the attack. With presence of mind, therefore, it is easy to jump aside just as he comes up, and so escape. Several boat-loads of pilgrims returning from Mecca were passed by our travellers. They had crossed the Red Sea, and landing at Cosseir, had traversed the desert to Keneh. They were crowded together most inconveniently on the deck, the cabins being reserved for the wealthier females. One of the boats, during a contrary wind, drifted close to "the Home," and several of the men jumping up, addressed Daireh and Mustapha very energetically. They said that many days had elapsed since they embarked, and their patience being exhausted, they now threw all the N 2 180 QUARRIES FROM MASSARA. blame of the delay on the sailors. Daireh quietly and patiently explained to them that the men were not in fault, and the poor pilgrims sunk down into their former apathetic state of submission. Five months had already been consumed in the pilgrimage, and they looked as if they were heartily sick of it. The quarries of Massara are of prodigious extent ; they have furnished the stone used on the opposite side of the river for the Pyramids, as well as for Memphis and other ancient cities, and they still supply all that is required for building purposes, in Cairo. The upper part of the mountain is unfit for use, being full of flaws ; it was therefore necessary to carry the excavations to immense distances under it. The early method of separating a block was tedious and wasteful. The workman cut a passage between it and the rock, and as the block was usually very large, he was obliged to make the passage wide enough to hold him while so employed. Many masses yet remain with the channel unfinished. On the roof, the marks of red paint, made to guide the workmen, and several inscriptions, are still visible. The next day, the family breakfasted early, and set out for a morning excursion. Their road at first lay along a fine causeway, used during the inundation of the Nile. By its side is one of the finest collections of palm-trees in Egypt. It is of great extent, and some of the trees are a hundred feet high. The fruit they produce is of first-rate quality, and little of it is dried, being sent to supply the Cairo markets, when fresh gathered and in its natural state. Just beyond this noble forest is Metraheni, a poor village, built upon the ruins of the famous city of Memphis. So PYRAMIDS OF SAKKARA. 181 the antiquaries have decided; but there is nothing left to show that Memphis ever stood there, except great irregular mounds of rubbish, a few small columns, and a colossal granite figure, l^'ing on its face. The latter was nearly buried under the soil, but the earth has been excavated around, and the portion recently uncovered is as perfect as when first sculptured. That a great city must have formerly existed here, or in the immediate neighbourhood, is evident from the immense number of tombs which exist in the vicinity of the Pyramids. At no great distance, stand the Pyramids of Sak- kara. If they were not so near their mighty brethren of Ghizeh, they would have excited more attention. One of them was explored a few years ago by Colonel Vyse, and Mr. Dalton determined to enter it. The Arabs, of whom about a dozen had joined the party, cleared away some of the rubbish, and one of them lying down, wriggled himself through the narrow entrance, followed by Daireh and his master. The passage was for two or three yards quite as small and diflftcult as any part of the crocodile mummy-pit, but fortunately the air was purer. The shaft gradually increased in height, and they were soon able to stand upright. It was supported by large square pillars, in which were the ends of some large beams, quite sound, very hard, and black with age. Mr. Dalton was sorry he had not a saw to cut off a portion, as they are the only specimens of wood to be found in any of the Pyramids or other buildings of great anti- quity in Egypt. At the end of the shaft is a very large and deep pit, partly filled with rubbish, the great extent of which was shown by throwing down 182 MUMMY CATTLE. some pieces of lighted paper. It is excavated exactly in the centre of the base. There are some small chambers above, which cannot easily be reached, and as they contain nothing of interest, Mr. Dalton did not make the attempt. On emerging, our travellers proceeded northward to a large catacomb lately dis- covered, containing an immense number of mummy- cattle. On their road, they passed by many pits leading to other catacombs and tombs. The whole ground for a great distance is honeycombed with them. It is now a sandy desert, but a little below the surface the solid rock is reached. A countless number of human mummies have been taken from the pits, and the ground is strewed with portions of the bodies and fragments of linen. Occasionally, a sar- cojDhagus is discovered; and one or two, broken in pieces, were lying about, as well as one in excellent condition, lately disinterred at the expense of an Italian nobleman. The cattle-pits have been opened in two places, and rival parties were busily at work in search of curiosities. Most of the mummies con- sist of the bones only, of a calf or full-grown animal. They are ingeniously packed in numerous linen ban- dages, and tied round with cord, so as to form a figure somewhat resembling the creature when lying down ; the calves are thus reduced to the size of a dog, and the bulls and cows are in the same proportion. The cord and string employed is as neatly twisted as in the present day; it looks quite perfect to the eye, but easily breaks. Still further south, are the extensive catacombs of mummy -birds : they seem to occupy the whole CATACOMBS OF BIRDS. 183 of one of the low hills. The entrance to which our travellers were led is a wide pit some thirty feet deep. One of the guides had brought a long rope with him, which, being held by two or three men at the top, he caught hold of, and thus lowered himself down. It was not easy to folloAV him, and none of the party made the attempt. A more convenient access by the side of the hill has lately been stopped up. "While the man who had descended was collecting some of the mummies, another came up, and said that he had lately found out a new entrance, and our travellers went with him to some distance. He had made a hole about ten feet deep, into which he jumped, followed by Mr. Dalton and Charles : who, after passing two or three yards along a horizontal passage, came to the birds. They are each closed down in long red earthen- ware jars of coarse texture, and the shaft or gallery- is packed full of them to the very roof. There is every reason to believe that it is connected with the other shafts, but many thousand jars must be removed before the fact can be ascertained. The man handed up half a dozen to the people above, and in the meantime, the guide arrived with as many more from the other part of the pit. All were broken by a smart blow, except two, which were taken away and kept in their original state. The mummies were neatly wrapped up in many folds of linen, and tied round with much accuracy by strips of the same material. On cutting open two or three, the bird (an Ibis) was found, with its long legs and neck folded by the side of the body, and in a perfect state, although quite black with age. It seemed a pity 184 BOAT-LOAD OF CAMELS. to destroy so many, but the store is almost inexhaust- ible. Centuries must have passed in accumulating the immense number that still remain. On their way to the boat, the travellers descended into another very extensive catacomb. Near the entrance was a lofty chamber supported by pillars; it was large enough for a temple, and possibly it may have been used for that purpose. The vessel had dropped some miles down the river during their absence, and they found it lying at a large village opposite Old Cairo. The young people were amused the next morn- ing by the way in which a number of camels were ferried over the river. They came to the shore laden with huge bundles of grass cut in the neigh- bouring fields : they were made to enter a large boat, and lie down at the bottom ; and when it was loaded, nothing was seen of them but their patient, mournful countenances peering above the grass. Large quan- tities of fresh fodder for cattle are sent into Cairo in this way. The great and important day had now arrived, and Charles and Emily were to have their long-cherished wish gratified : they were to mount to the summit of the great Pyramid. Marshall also had expressed so strong a desire to perform this exploit, that she was allowed to join the party. Having crossed a fertile plain, and the dry bed of a canal, used to convey the waters of the Nile into the interior when it overflows, the happy company reached the borders of the desert. They were met there by several Bedouins from a neighbouring village, who have gained a kind of pre- scriptive right to act as guides to visitors. As the PYRAMIDS OF GHIZEH. 185 employment is rather profitable, tliey have given up their wandering life, to be always near at hand. A few years ago these men were so imposing and trouble- some, that they would have been driven from their station by the Pasha, had not their Sheikh rendered himself responsible for their future good conduct. He now sends his slave, who receives what is given by visitors, and it goes into a common fund. Formerly their plan was to assist the unwary stranger to the summit, and then, having him to a certain extent in their power, they used to extort as large a fee as pos- sible by threats. The Pyramids are built on the ridge of a rocky hill, which is somewhat elevated above the desert, and their apparent height is thereby increased. They rose proudly in the distance, and were not reached till long after the young people thought they were close at hand. Their father lingered a little behind the rest of the party, that he might compare the magni- tude of the gigantic mass with those who were approaching it. In this way he was able to appre- ciate the enormous size of the Pyramid, and felt nothing of that disappointment which many travellers have experienced on the first visit. The large Pyramid is, according to the best autho- rities, seven hundred and fifty feet square at the base, and nearly six hundred feet high. Herodotus, the Greek historian, who visited it twenty-three centuries ago, states the height to be eight hundred feet, and says that a hundred thousand men were employed for twenty years in its construction. Its four sides are equal; and some idea may be formed of the space it covers, by learning that it is as large as Lincoln's-inn 186 PYRAMIDS OF GHIZEH. Fields, or Russell-square, in London. The base and some of the lower courses of the stones are buried in the sand. Each course is smaller than that below it, so that a succession of steps are produced, and the pyramidal form of its construction attained. Sir Gardner Wilkinson, who is perhaps the best authority on Egyptian antiquities, believes that it was erected by Suphis and his brother Seusuphis, nearly four thousand years ago. Such is the solidity of its con- struction, added to the peculiar stability of its form, that, unless overthrown by an earthquake, it will probably endure to the end of time. It has been said that it bids defiance to injury from the hand of man. This is a mistake, although it is not probable it will ever be disturbed ; for a modern engineer, by filling the Queen's chamber with gunpowder, could send the greater portion of the huge mass into the air in a few seconds. The removal of a large part of Dover Cliff by such means has shown what tremendous power can be brought into action by this formidable agent. It was settled that the ascent should be made before entering the interior; and, after some hesita- tion, Mrs. Dalton decided that she would also make the attemj^t. Three of the strongest of the guides were assigned to her, and the rest of the party had two each. Having climbed up with little difficulty to the entrance into the interior, which is in the six- teenth course of stones from the base, and made this arrangement, the guides were engaged, and no time was lost in proceeding. The courses of stone vary considerably in thickness; some being not more than two feet high, while others ASCENT OF THE PYKAMID. 187 are as much as four, and even five feet. One guide jumps up before his charge, Avhile the other assists below. The young people set off at a great rate, and in ten minutes had reached a recess in one corner about half-way up. Mr. Dalton kept near his wife, that he might watch her progress. He soon found that it was more agreeable to decline the assistance of his guides, except where the steps were unusually hioh. Those who attended Mrs. Dalton were directed o by Daireh, and saved her from almost all exertion. She was not long in joining her children in their resting-place. Having stayed there a few minutes to take breath, the whole party resumed their task, and before long, they stood on the summit of the Pyramid. It probably ended originally in a point, but many of the top stones have been thrown down, and there is now a horizontal space on the summit about forty feet square. A few large blocks of stone lie on it, which are covered with the names of those who have made the ascent. Here our travellers sat down to rest, and to congratulate each other on their exploit. The view around them was magnificent. They were able to take in at a glance the whole range of Pyramids, which stretch away to the south for a distance of twenty leagues; and they could trace the >\dndings of the mighty Nile for many miles in each direction. The quarries of Massara, or rather the hills in which they are excavated, lay before them to the right. A little to the left, was Old Cairo; and, just beyond, the modern city, and its numerous minarets, with the citadel towering on a rock behind, and com- manding the whole town. At their feet, the gigantic 188 VIEW FROM THE PYRAMID. and mysterious Sphinx was just visible above the sand. Close to them, rose the two other Pyramids of Ghizeh; while to the west, the boundless desert presented a scene in strong contrast with the fertility and variety of the valley of the Nile. Had such a prospect presented itself from an ordinary hill, without any historical associations to make it remarkable, it would have made a great impression on our travellers; but when they remem- bered that they gazed on it from the summit of one of the oldest and most wonderful of human works, and that, thousands of years before their own land was anything more than a savage wilderness, the country around them had been the site of mighty cities, and the chosen dwelling-place of nearly all the civilization, science, and art, the world at that time possessed, their feelings may be better imagined than described. How many of those whose names are written in imperishable characters in the world's history had, in the course of ages, stood where they now placed their feet ! The Persian Cambyses, the Grecian conqueror of the world, the Ptolemies, the leaders of the Roman legions, and the victorious Saracens, had, in succes- sion, ascended the same eminence, and looked on the fair country they had mastered; while myriads of human beings were entombed below, who, after life's fitful fever, slept in peace, and cared not for the changes which were convulsing the world. It would be hard to find a place more fitted to call forth the powers of the imagination than the summit of the great Pyramid, but the Bedouins take care that no one shall dream there undisturbed. The amount of " backsheesh" they were to receive was of more VIEW FROM THE PYRAMID. 189 interest to them than the fate of a dozen empires, and Mr. Dalton's meditations were often interrupted by their clamours. The wind was rather high, although it had not been felt below, and the difference in tem- perature was considerable. After remaining about half an hour on the top, the family prepared for their descent. There was no danger in making it, assisted as they were by the guides; but it was, for the first minute or two, a rather nervous piece of business. One false step would be fatal, and a few years ago, an English gentleman did roll down, and was taken up a deplorably mutilated corpse at the base. What- ever may be thought of the magnitude of the Pyramid from below, no doubt about its enormous size can be entertained by those who look down from above. It requires a strong and well practised thrower to fling a stone far enough to clear the side. Those thrown by Mr. Dalton and Charles struck about half way down. The entrance to the interior is about fifty feet from the base, and is placed out of the centre of the north-east side, evidently with the object of conceal- ment. At first, it is necessary to descend a narrow gallery more than eighty feet long, inclining down- ward. At the end is an immense block of granite, exactly fitting it. It was placed there with the intent of stopping all further progress, and has never been disturbed. The first explorers cut a passage by its side through the softer material in which it is imbedded. Having gone round this obstacle, another gallery presents itself, running in the same direction as the first, but inclining upward at a considerable angle. It is one hundred and ten feet long, and not 190 INTERIOR OF THE PYRAMID. more than three feet eight inches high, and as it is necessary to proceed in a stooping posture, and the heat is always great, it requires some effort to reach the other end. Here, a horizontal passage leads to the Queen's chamber. The gallery is continued in the same direction, and the same inclination, but it now becomes nearly thirty feet high and seven feet wide, with a bench or raised foot-path on each side. It is very slippery, and the assistance of the guides was required by the ladies. The larger gallery is more than one hundred and thirty feet long. At the top is a vestibule which leads into the King's chamber. This apartment stands under the centre of the Pyramid, and is thirty-seven feet long, seventeen high, and twenty wide. The sides and ceiling are lined with polished granite, and at the further end is an immense sarcophagus of the same material, in tolerable condition, but without any inscription. Close to it is a large hole, excavated to some depth by Colonel Vyse, in hope of gaining access to some other chamber, but without success. He also made a small opening in the centre of one of the sides, which leads to a narrow funnel reaching to the top of the Pyramid, as he clearly ascertained by pouring water from above. The mighty Pharaoh who once reposed in the sar- cophagus was disturbed ages ago. It is supposed that his resting-place was discovered by one of the Caliphs in the eighth century. Below the chamber in which he was deposited is another, about half the size, called the Queen's chamber. Like the former, BEDOUIN DANCE. 191 the walls are lined with granite, which are covered with a calcareous deposit, much harder than marble, and a quarter of an inch thick. Some pieces were chipped off by the guides, and the granite below appeared as bright and fresh as if newly polished. Before our travellers left the great chamber, the Arabs drew their attention to its remarkable echo. They shouted with all their might, and the sound of their voices was heard for some time after, as if rever- berating along a succession of passages. The effect produced by firing a pistol is still more startling, and no person visiting the chamber should omit to try the experiment. The Bedouins also sung one of their wild songs, dancing grotesquely at the same time. The noise they made was really deafening; and dimly lit, as the spacious chamber was, they seemed like a company of evil spirits revelling among the dead. Tliere can be but little doubt that the Pyramid contains other chambers, but the searching inquiries of successive explorers have not succeeded in dis- covering any clue to their entrance. It is calculated that there is space enough for three thousand seven hundred rooms, equal to the largest of the two, allow- ing the same extent for masonry to separate them. At the top of the narrow ascending shaft, is a per- pendicular well, which is carried to the base of the Pyramid, and through the solid rock, to an ascer- tained depth of two hundred feet. Not being more than two feet square, it is not easy to go down, nor is there anything at the bottom to reward the labour. It is supposed to lead to subterraneous passages, con- necting it with the Sphinx or one of the other 192 THE SPHINX. Pyramids, How such a narrow shaft could have been excavated in a space where there is not room to stoop is a mystery. The Pyramid next to the largest was opened by Belzoni, who did not find an^'thing within it to reward his great labour. The sides are quite smooth, especially near the top, which tapers to a point. A few holes have been made, just large enough for a foot to rest in, and one of the guides offered to make the perilous ascent for a dollar. He said that he had done it before, but as nothing was to be gained by his climbing up, his proposal was declined. Walking round two sides of the great Pyramid, the travellers arrived at the Sphinx. It is a statue cut out of the solid rock, having the body of an animal in a couchant posture, with a human head. The size is enormous, being one hundred and twenty-eight feet long, independent of the fore-legs, which are buried in the sand. The circumference of the head is upwards of ninety-five feet, and its height fifty-five feet. The face has been greatly mutilated, but enough of the original form is left to show that it has a quiet, placid expression of countenance, and the thick pout- ing lips of the negro race. The body is nearly buried in the sand, but Charles and Emily were able to walk along the back. Belzoni cleared away the sand in front, under the direction of Mr. Salt and Chevalier Caviglia, and found that the paws extended fifty feet from the body; a small temple was discovered be- tween them, with some steps leading down to the base of the Sphinx. On its walls were many ancient inscriptions, recording the visits of eminent Greeks and Romans. Amono' them was one of Caracalla, THE SPHINX. 193 the Roman emperor. On it were also some fine specimens of bas-relief. One subject represented a man making an offering to the Sphinx; we may therefore suppose it was once an object of heathen worship. The sand has again nearly filled up the pit then made. At a little distance are several tombs, excavated in the side of the hill. Two were fitted up by Colonel Vyse, as his residence during the time he pursued his researches in the neighbourhood. Many others are now the dwelling-places of the Bedouins; but the former are kept clear, as a resting-place for those who visit the Pyramids. The Daltons took lunch in one of them, and purchased several trifling antiquities found in the tombs. Small figures in coarse earthen- ware, in the shape of mummies, and stamped or painted with a few hieroglyphics, are very common. Having settled with the Sheikh for the guides — no easy matter to arrange — they returned to the Nile, and a ferry-boat carried the whole party with their donkeys to Old Cairo. They landed close to an ancient tower, which contains a pillar, erected before the Christian era, to measure the rise of the river, and still used for the same purpose. Passing through the town, which is now of little importance, and by some extensive gardens belonging to Ibrahim Pasha, they reached Boulak. Their boat had dropped do^vn during their absence, and was now moored exactly in the same place it had quitted fifty-eight days before. The voyage up the Nile was ended, very much to the regret of our travellers. Two months had been most agreeably spent; and even if there had been o 194 END OF THE VOYAGE. none of the marvellous antiquities of Old Egypt to attract them, they would have had much enjoyment in the excursion. The life they had led in the boat had been so free and independent, the change of scene so frequent, and all they had seen so new and strange, that they could have wished it to have been twice as long. The pyramids, temples, palaces, tombs, they had visited, seemed to belong to another world, so different were they to anything that Europe has to offer. Their immense antiquity, and the cloud which hangs over the history of the singular people that constructed them, gave them a mysterious inte- rest, and in thinking of them it seemed more like the remembrance of a dream than a reality. Much has been written about their founders, but after all, how little is or ever will be known ! An old English writer, quoted by Stephens, the American traveller, quaintly but forcibly expresses these feelings : — " Time sadly overcometh all things, and is now dominant, and sitteth on a sphinx, and looketh into Memphis and Old Thebes, while his sister. Oblivion, sitteth semi-sominous on a pyramid, and turning old glories into dreams. History sinketh beneath her cloud. The traveller, as he passeth amazedly through those deserts, asketh of her, who builded them, and she mumbleth something, but what it is he heareth not." The next day was Sunday, and the travellers decided on remaining in the boat till the following morning, as thus they were likely to enjoy more quiet than in an hotel. They attended divine service at the Church Mission-house, and received a cordial welcome back to Cairo from their kind friends. ADIEU TO THE NILE. 195 Early on Monday, the camels were again put in requisition; the goods and chattels were carried on shore, and the family prepared to quit " The Home," in which they had passed so many happy weeks. It was a rather sorrowful parting for the sailors as well as themselves. The men had enjoyed many little advantages, and, judging by their manner, had become really attached to their white friends. Mr. Dalton gave each of them a small present, which was gratefully received, and many kind wishes were uttered for the khowaga, the settee, and their chil- dren. Poor Katterhairack would not give up the hope, groundless as it was, that they would engage him as a servant, and hovered near the hotel for several days. "While the Arab requires to be care- fully watched, it is clear that he is not insensible to kindness. The French hotel had been found so uncomfort- able, that the family now went to Shepheard's: the change was very agreeable, and its master paid them every attention. The few follomng days were devoted to seeing Cairo, preparatory to their depar- ture for Syria. CAIRO. CHAPTER IX. RETURN TO CAIRO MOSQUES — DOXGOLESE BIOGRAPHY PUBLIC FOUNTAINS CITADEL OF CAIRO THE PASHA's MOSQUE BUTCHERY OF THE MAMELUKES VISIT TO THE MINT SALADIN's WELL TOMB OF THE PASHA DISGUST- ING SCENE SHOOBRA GARDEN RHODA ISLAND TURKISH BATH VISIT TO A HAREM EASTERN WOMEN — MARRIAGE PROCESSION EXPOSURE OF CONVICTS — WONDERFUL SWORD MISSIONARY SCHOOLS THE PASHa's DAUGHTER. Cairo is completely an Oriental city, and so widely different in its aspect and population from any European town, that there was an ample fund of amusement for the short time devoted to its exami- nation. Great care is taken to exclude the excessive light and heat from the houses, and they are fre- quently so built that each story projects beyond the one beneath: in some instances, those opposite to each other actually touch at the top. The streets are very narrow, and not paved, but being kept well watered, there is little dust, although they are so crowded, that it is sometimes difficult to obtain a passage. An immense number of donkeys are kept for hire, and as there is no room for the j^assage of wheel carriages, they are in constant use. The shops, MOSQUES. 197 like those throughout Egypt, are open to the street, and so small that the customers never enter. The proprietor, sitting cross-legged on a carpet, rarely rises to wait on them, but keeps his scanty stock of goods within his reach. The mosques are very numerous, and some are of great antiquity, while many are exceedingly large and very magnificent. Of late years, it has been easy to gain access to them, and the Daltons entered one of the finest. The internal decoration was not very remarkable, and as it was necessary to take off their shoes, and walk Avith bare feet on the cold marble floors, they did not attempt to go into any other. Most of them contain the tomb of a caliph or santon, and all have matting laid down over part of the pavement, for the people to kneel on. There is also a kind of pulpit in a conspicuous place, from which portions of the Koran are read, and sometimes explained. Encircling the minarets is a gallery, and at stated hours a man ascends, and going round several times, calls out an invitation to prayer with a sonorous voice. It is heard above the noise in the busy streets, and not only draws the people to the mosque, but is obeyed by those who perform their devotions at home. The persons employed are blind, that they may not be able to take advantage of their elevated position to pry into the hareems and inner courts of the houses. The shopkeeper who goes to the mosque hangs up a net before his goods till he returns. He frequently, however, says his prayers on his own premises, and his customers quietly wait till he has finished. If an impatient Frank comes to make a purchase, a neighbour good-naturedly takes his place, and acts 198 DONGOLESE BIOGRAPHY. as his assistant. Friday is the Sabbath of the Mussulman, but there is little to distinguish it from the rest of the week. The attendance at the mosques is more numerous, but the shops are kept open as usual. A large open space, containing about sixty- acres, called the Eskebeyah, serves as a kind of park for the people. It was now covered with gardens of vegetables, &c., and around it were many coffee-houses in temporary buildings. When the Nile overflows, it is flooded with water, and small boats are seen floating over its surface, filled with pleasure parties. The principal object of the four Dongolese priests, in coming to Cairo, was to improve themselves in the reading of the Koran: none are held in much esteem who cannot do so fluently; " minding the stops," and placing a proper emphasis on the words. Although very few of the people can read, they acquire considerable knowledge of the Koran by hearing it in the mosques. There are, also, many persons in Cairo who gain a livelihood by going- round from house to house, and reading a small portion, for which they are paid a trifle; they are also sometimes employed to do the same thing, at stated intervals, over the graves of departed friends. Mr. Dalton made the Dongolese a present of some paper, and, in return, requested them to write memoirs of themselves in Arabic. A short time after, one of them produced a page of MS., which contained the biography of all four. It stated where they were born, and where they were going to; and then was added, that one had been chased by a hippopotamus, another had killed a wild cow, the PUBLIC FOUNTAINS. 199 third had shot a gazelle, and all of them had been " drowiwdr By the latter expression, they meant, that in learning to swim, they had been carried down the river, and were rescued with difficulty. Daireh said that he had been " drowned" once, and that it was a common occurrence on the banks of the Nile. The bazaars of Cairo present much the same appearance as in the smaller towns, although they are, of course, more extensive, and better supplied with goods. All the handicraft trades are carried on in public, while every man is seated at his work. There are a great many turners of pipe-sticks, &c., who use their feet quite as much as their hands. The tailor, embroiderer, fringe-maker, and many other artizans, also hold their work with their toes, so as to leave both hands at liberty. The private houses are frequently very large, and are magnifi- cently embellished, having inner courts, fountains, gardens, baths, &c. Very few, however, of the wealthy make any exterior show, and their dwellings are hardly to be distinguished from those of their poorer neighbours. The public fountains are very handsome, some being built of marble and profusely decorated. They stand, generally, at the corner of a street, are roofed over, and have a screen of gilt lattice-work in front. A man is stationed in the inside, who hands a cup of water to every applicant. There are also several little brass pipes fixed in the neighbouring wall, to which the people apply their mouths, and suck out as much of the refresh- ing liquid as they please. When three or four are thus employed, their heads close to each other, their mouths pouting out, and their noses pressed against 200 CITADEL OF CAIRO. the building, they present a very amusing appear- ance. The fountains are erected, as acts of piety, by wealthy individuals, and bear their names. Some of the finest and most recent are the gifts of Mehemet Ali and Ibrahim Pasha. The citadel of Cairo was an object of great interest to the travellers, and a morning was pleasantly spent in paying it a visit. On their road, they turned aside to go through the house of one of the principal Cadis. Many years ago, a wealthy person left a considerable income to the person holding the situa- tion, for the time being, on condition that he took charge of and fed all the cats in Cairo which were without owners. Undue advantage is taken of this benevolent provision for the feline tribe; every one wishing to get rid of a cat, goes forthwith to the Cadi's court-yard, and leaves it there. Not a day passes that there are not fresh additions to his stock. It, however, rarely happens, that he has more than forty or fifty on hand, but by what means the number is kept doAvn to that moderate amount, the Cadi and his people are best able to explain. They are fed at stated times, and run from all quarters at the call of their attendant; and when the Daltons saw them, many were peaceably reposing in the court-yard, undisturbed by the passers-by. The citadel is built on a high hill, from which a commanding view of the city is gained. For many years, it was the residence of Mehemet Ali, and he has still a suite of apartments reserved for his use. It has now very little of the aspect of a fortress, although originally built for that purpose by the Saracens. In the enclosure, a mosque, exceeding THE pasha's mosque. 201 in magnificence any already existing in the East, has been in the course of erection for many years. It is constructed of Egyptian alabaster, a kind of marble exceedingly hard, and capable of a fine polish. Although rarely free from blemishes, it is beautifully grained, and is held in the highest estimation. The dromos, or court, is surrounded by massive pillars, and is nearly finished, as well as the superb fountain in the centre. The latter is elaborately decorated, and enables the visitor to judge how splendid the effect of the whole structure will be when completed. The mosque itself consists of a very large area, surmounted by one noble dome, and four of smaller dimensions, supported by enormous alabaster columns. Round it is a corridor of much beauty, although the architectural embellishments do not discover a very refined taste. A large number of workpeople are constantly employed, but their labours will still be required for some years. Many Arabs were em- ployed in sculpturing the ornamental work, and displayed considerable skill, little used as they are to this kind of employment. Not far from the mosque, is the inclosed space in which the massacre of the Mamelukes took place, in 1811. They were invited to a feast by the Pasha, who concealed his bloody intentions with all the dissimulation of an Oriental. Almost the whole body attended, and no sooner had they left his presence, than their destruction commenced. They were fired upon by soldiers, who were posted at every point commanding the court-yard through which they passed. All the gates had been closed, and every chance of escape was precluded; nor, 202 BUTCHERY OF THE MAMELUKES. cooped up as tliey were, had they the slightest opportunity of making any resistance. In a short time, every individual was butchered except one, who urged his horse towards a low wall and forced it to make a desperate leap. On the other side was a high precipice; the poor animal was killed by the fall, but its rider escaped unhurt, almost by a miracle, and concealed himself for three days in a neighbour- ing tomb. When he was discovered, the Pasha, who had no longer anything to fear from the Mamelukes, spared his life, and even allowed him a pension. He is still living, and occasionally visits Cairo. The travellers were shown the spot where the horse fell; it seemed to be a fearful distance, as they looked down from above, but some rubbish, now cleared away, served to break the fall. It is supposed by some, that Mehemet Ali is building the mosque as an expiation for the wholesale murder he committed on these unfortunate men; but probably his crime does not lie very heavy on his conscience, as he fre- quently sleeps close to the spot where it was com- mitted. Those who seek to palliate his conduct on this memorable occasion, contend that if he had not exterminated the Mamelukes, he would have soon become their victim. It is well for the rulers of more civilized countries that they are not obliged to resort to such dreadful means for self-preservation. Of late years, the Pasha has used a carriage, built in France. Its first appearance in Cairo caused a great sensation; and it was necessary to pull down and widen some of the streets before it could go through any parts of the city. Even now there is but one road through which it can pass. The Daltons saw VISIT TO THE MINT. 203 this remarkable old man, during one of his rides. He has a long white beard, a fine but not a pleasing countenance, and very sharp, piercing eyes. The people stood still as he went along, bowing reve- rently, but there was no noisy expression of loyalty. His lately-married daughter has also a handsome carriage, drawn by four horses, presented to her by the Pasha, on her marriage. Although not more than three months in use, it had begun to look shabby, and the panels were sadly scratched by its passage through the narrow streets. The road is cleared as much as possible when the Pasha or any of his family ride out, by several servants, armed with heavy whips, running before the carriage, and cracking them incessantly; nor are they spared on the backs of those who are slow in making way. Not unfrequently camels, carrying fire-wood, block the road. They are formidable creatures, when thus loaded: it is so very easy to get an eye poked out by a straggling branch, that even the consequential Frank, preceded by his still more important drago- man, armed with a " little brief authority," makes no attempt to dispute the passage, but seeks shelter in the nearest court. The government Mint is also in the citadel, and our travellers went over it. The machinery is very rude, and the rolling, cutting, and stamping are all done by hand. Every piece, when coined, is weighed separately; and, judging by the number rejected, from being too light or too heavy, by those employed in the tedious process, it was a necessary precaution. There are very few Egyptian coins struck of a higher value than five piastres, but the Spanish dollar and 204 SALADINS WELL. French five-franc piece are current, as well as Turkish gold pieces. Near one of the entrances to the citadel is a remarkable well, of great depth, made to supply the garrison with water. The honour of forming it is ascribed by some to the patriarch Joseph, and by others to the great Saladin, the conquering leader of the Saracens. There can be little doubt that the latter is correct. It is a work of great labour, as it is excavated out of the solid rock, and sunk throuo-h the hill, for some hundreds of feet, to a depth below the level of the Nile. The water is drawn up by two sets of buckets attached to ropes, which are turned round by means of large cylinders. The first set empty their contents into a reservoir about half way down, and the others dipping into it, bring the water to the top. The reservoir is approached by a winding descent, also cut out of the rock. It is said that, when it was finished, it was found that space enough had not been left to allow an ox to descend, to turn the lower wheel, and that it was necessary to send down a calf, and let it grow to years of maturity before it could be employed. This is a fiction: the well is now only used when the Nile is high; and the woman who took our travellers down stated that the animal then employed, which was, however, a small cow, descended daily. Near the well is the Pasha's menagerie, which is not worth a visit. There were only two or three lions, some hyenas, and a wolf, they were in bad condition, and in a very dirty state. An elephant, presented by some Eastern potentate, is kept in a separate yard. After leaving the citadel, the Daltons rode through TOMB OF THE PASHA. 205 part of the suburbs of Cairo. They had not proceeded far before they noticed many ladies mounted on fine donkeys, attended by slaves, hurrying in one direction. Their curiosity was excited, and they determined to follow them. It was not long before they came near the lar^e tomb Mehemet Ali built for himself and family some years ago. In it is buried his favourite wife, the mother of Ibrahim Pasha, who is her son by a former marriage. A large crowd was gathered round, through which Daireh had some difficulty in making his way. The Daltons dismounted, and, following him, they soon found themselves in a large court-yard full of people. The ladies who had attracted their attention were passing across it, and entering the large mosque covering the mausoleum. The cause of the assemblage was soon learned: one of the Pasha's four wives had died early in the morning, and her funeral obsequies, which would last ten days, had already commenced. As no Franks are allowed to go into the mosque, our friends were about to leave, when their surprise was excited by seeing some people rush by with hands and faces covered with blood. One man, brandishing a knife, carried off the leg of a buffalo, with most of the flesh hacked away; another followed, with the head of the animal, and the rest were loaded with pieces of raw meat. It seems that, at the funerals of the rich and great, there is a distribution of animal food to the poor; and on this occasion one hundred buffaloes were to be given away during the ceremonies. Through the kindness of the keeper of the tomb, our travellers were allowed to pass through his garden, and, mounting on the wall, they looked down on one of 206 DISGUSTING SCENE. the most singular and disgusting scenes they had ever witnessed. In a small yard close to the mosque, about two hundred men and women were impatiently waiting while half-a-dozen butchers, who had just cut the throat of another buffalo, were trying to skin it with their blunt knives. The animal, laid on its back, was hardly dead, and they, as well as the people, were standing in blood and garbage at least two inches deep. Some soldiers were busily employed in keeping a space clear for the men to work. The butchers soon got tired of their task, and, before the skin was half removed, they cut the animal open, and began helping themselves to pieces of flesh. This was the signal for the mob to fall on the carcase, and in a few minutes it was hacked and torn in pieces. It was a matter of indifference what part was secured, and every fragment, as it was detached, was either handed to a friend behind or crammed into the vest. When sufficiently loaded, the fortunate individual ran off, the blood streaming through his clothes. Nothing could be more savage and revolting than this strange scramble; it was more like an assemblage of wolves than of human beings. Notwithstanding the death of his wife, our travellers learned that the Pasha took his usual morning airing in his carriage. He appeared to bear his loss very philosophically, perhaps remem- bering that he had three other partners still left to comfort him. A morning was agreeably spent in visiting the gardens at Shoobra and Rhoda Island. The former belongs to the Pasha, and is very extensive. He passes some hours there almost every day, but is too active to devote them wholly to recreation; part of SHOOBRA GARDENS. 207 tlie time is spent iu the perusal of despatches, and attention to other public business. It is laid out with some taste; and many plants and trees which in Ensfland are confined to conservatories and hot- houses were growing in the open air. There is a large a\'iary, full of various kinds of pigeons, in which Mehemet Ali takes great delight, and two large summer-houses, handsomely fitted up. The chief ornament of the garden is a large kiosk, with pa\41ions at each corner, and an immense basin, or shallow reservoir, in the centre. It was empty, but can be quickly filled; and the gardener said that the Pasha occasionally amused himself by seeing the female slaves of his hareem row about in it in small boats, and engage in sham fights. On such occasions strangers are, of course, rigidly excluded. Pipes are laid down for lighting it with gas, which is manufac- tured for the occasion, but they are rarely used. Rhoda Island lies to the south of the city, on the road to Old Cairo. A narrow artificial branch of the Nile separates it from the mainland. Tradition reports, that Moses was deposited on its bank, when hidden among the rushes by his mother. It is singular that there are now few or no water-plants found on the shores of the Nile. The papyrus, which once grew there in profusion, is almost extinct. It was extensively used in the manufacture of the paper so frequently found in the mummy cases, covered with hieroglyphics and other characters. While they were in Sicily, the Daltons met with some of the plant in a private garden; it was growing in water to a height of more than eight feet. The spongy interior of the stalks was formerly cut into thin slices, 208 RHODA ISLAND. and a double layer being placed in contrary directions, they were closely pressed together. The manuscripts discovered in Pompeii and Herculaneum are written on this material. Another aquatic plant, whose leaves and flowers are so often imitated in the architectural decorations of the Egyptian temples, the sacred lotus, or water-lily, has also nearly disappeared. The greater part of Rhoda Island belongs to Ibrahim Pasha, and forms a more agreeable garden than that of Shoobra. It is open to the public, and is much resorted to by the people of Cairo on holiday occasions. The situation is very delightful, and great taste has been displayed in laying it out. It is true that many of our pretty English flowers will not flourish there; but their loss is more than compen- sated by the presence of a great variety of plants we can never hope to see growing in the open air, A Scotch gardener has the charge of it. Visitors are liberally permitted to gather anything they please, but it is probable that Franks only are so favoured. Some curious grottoes, wholly covered with shells arranged with great care, but in rather formal style, have been constructed at the northern end ; they are now in a dilapidated state. Through the kindness of Mrs. Leider, who accom- panied them, Mrs. Dalton and her daughter had the opportunity of taking a bath in the Turkish style. One day in the week, the public baths are given up to the use of females. They found a large company assembled, for on such occasions they are made a kind of rendezvous, and many of the Cairo women spend half the day there. They are the more popular, from giving them one of the few opportunities they have, TURKISH BATHS. 209 for displaying their finery. The English ladies, by paying rather more than the ordinary price, were accommodated with private dressing-rooms, but the natives have no fastidious feelings, and prepare for their ablutions upon divans placed round the large bathing-saloon. Abundance of water, much hotter than is agreeable, is employed, and the attendants rub and scrub most vigorously. It is an enervating process, but in high favour with the people of the East. The chibouk, a cup of coffee, and an hour's luxurious repose, follow the ablution. They had also the pleasure to be introduced by Mrs. Leider into the hareem of one of the Pasha's ministers. His house is at a little distance from the city. They were expected; and on arriving, were at once introduced into the female apartments. The mother of the owner of the house was waiting to receive them. She was very handsomely dressed, and wore a profusion of ornaments. Shortly after, his young and pretty wife entered. She was still more richly decorated, and had a splendid diamond kurz,* fixed in its usual place, at the back of the head. They gave the visitors a very gracious reception, and through Mrs. Leider, who acted as interpreter, said a great many complimentary things. There were several female slaves in attendance, and a variety of cakes, preserves, bon-bons, (fcc, were handed round in succession. Coffee, in small cups, and several kinds of sherbet, were also brought in; nor was the chibouk forgotten. After taking a few whiffs of the latter, * The kurz is a flat oval ornament of silver, gold, or precious stones, according to the wealth or rank of the wearer. It is about two inches long. 210 VISIT TO A HAKEEM. the lady of the house transferred it to Mrs. Leider. It is an affront to decline using it; so she placed it to her lips, and Mrs. Dalton then gravely followed her example. As Emily was not married, she was not supposed to have learnt to smoke, and was therefore excused. A peculiarly mild and fragrant tobacco is used by females: it is called Gebeli, from its growing on the hills (Gebel) of Syria. The ladies asked many questions of their visitors, with little ceremony, and seemed quite ready to answer any that were put to them. They were pro- fuse in their compliments, pressed the ladies to stay to dinner, and even to pass the night there. They appeared to be very curious to learn as much of England as possible, but had very vague ideas of European manners and customs. In the course of the interview, the child of the younger lady was brought in. It had the usual neglected and un- healthy appearance of Egyptian infants. The visit lasted two hours; and after pressing Mrs. Leider and her friends to repeat it, the mother, who was evidently the principal person in the hareem, allowed them to depart, saying as they left, that their pre- sence " had strengthened the tree of the house." It must not be supposed that the Oriental women lead a very unhappy life. It is true that they are precluded from many of the enjoyments within the reach of European females. If seen in public, they are so carefully veiled that they cannot be reco- gnised, nor are they ever in the company of their husbands, except within the walls of the hareem; but they are used to the seclusion, and their own apartments are their little world, in which they live EASTERN WOMEN. 211 contented. They cannot read, and know very little of what is passing out of doors, and indeed have scarcely any desire to know. It is true that poly- gamy is allowed in the East, but it is not common; and no man who consults his own peace keeps more than one wife in the same establishment. The European lady looks with horror at the confined and retired existence of an Oriental female, and the latter feels an equal dislike to the idea of freely enterino- into society. If education should ever become general, a great change will take place; but as women are now so meanly estimated as to be scarcely thought capable of any intellectual eff'ort, — and the father and husband must be instructed themselves before they can believe that their daughters or wives need any cultivation, — the work of improvement will progress but slowly. An English physician at Cairo has formed a very interesting museum of Egyptian antiquities, which the travellers had the privilege of going over. Dr. Abbott has been engaged some years in collecting it, and has been very successful in his researches. He possesses a great number of very curious ornaments in gold and silver. Some of them display great taste and skill, and might take a place in the stock of a modern jeweller. There are signet-rings, bracelets, necklaces, earrings, &c. : some solid, and of great intrinsic value; others hollow, and beaten out very thin. A ring belonging to one of the earliest of the Pharaohs is perhaps the gem of the collection. The working of the precious metals into trinkets is of high antiquity. She was a bold lady who first ventured to have holes made in her ears; but she p 2 212 MARRIAGE PROCESSION. must have lived more than thirty-seven centuries ago, as we find that Abraham's servant presented Rebekah with earrings as well as bracelets. Dr. Abbott has also a great variety of specimens of Egyptian manufactures, as well as corn and other seeds, and even toys, all found in the tombs. A species of caricature cut in stone greatly amused the young people. It represents a fox as a priest, offer- ing a goose to a deity in the shape of a cat, and pro- bably was intended to ridicule the foolish superstition of the time. In one of their rides through the city, the family met a marriage procession. A woman belonging to the middle class was on the road to her husband's house. First, came two men mounted on camels, beating very noisy and discordant drums ; they were followed by many more, singing or chanting ; several women, friends of the family, came next, and then a canopy, borne by four girls, under which was the bride, supported by two friends. She was dressed in red, and covered by a veil of the same colour, so as to be quite concealed; a motley group of men, women, and boys brought up the rear. The whole company stopped at intervals, and clapping their hands, made a singular noise which they fancied was singing. The woman came from some other part of Egypt, and wore the costume of her own country. Had she been of Cairo, she would have had a white veil, and her eyes visible. This procession was the closing scene of the marriage festivities, which last for some days. A few hours before, her wardrobe, bed, bedding, and any household furniture which formed her dowry, had been sent to the bridegroom's EXPOSURE OF CONVICTS. 213 house. As great a display of these articles is made as possible : they are all uncovered, except the ward- robe, and as there is a porter to every separate piece, a long procession is formed. The longer it is, the more respectable it is considered. Another ceremony, of a more mournful character, took place while our travellers were at Cairo. Three men, convicted of robbery and murder, had been condemned to death. They were for three days paraded through all the principal streets of the city, guarded by soldiers, each having a paper attached to his breast, on which his crime and punishment were legibly inscribed. A day or two after, they were hung against the wall of a house in a crowded thoroughfare, and remained there for twenty-four hours. In one of Mr. Dalton's walks with Daireh, in search of tents, they passed through a long street, occupied by armourers. Being curious to know the value of the silver-mounted pistols commonly worn by the Arnaouts, they examined several pairs, but they were all of modern manufacture; the handles were covered with thin plates of embossed silver, rudely imitating the beautiful chased work of the genuine article. Two or three old swords were also shown to them as real Damascus blades; had they been so, they would have cost a very large sum. The art of tempering steel, which was anciently brought to wonderful perfection in Damascus, is now lost, and they are consequently exceedingly scarce and highly valued. Daireh told his master a story, which shows an Arab's estimate of the excellence of these blades, as well as his credulity. He said, that when Ibrahim 214 ' WONDERFUL SWORD. Pasha invaded Syria, he had a powerful Bedouin chief brought before him, and sought to enlist him and his tribe in his service. The Sheikh refused his offers, and could not be induced to promise more than to remain neutral. Irritated by his obstinacy, Ibrahim drew his sword — one of these famous blades, — and waving it round, he cut the poor man in half. The blow was so dexterously managed, that he did not discover what had been done, and continued the con- versation, till, turning quickly round in the heat of the discussion, the upper part of his body lost its balance and fell to the ground ! One may reasonably doubt whether any sword could perform such a wonder; but there is good authority for believing that the feat ascribed to Saladin by Sir Walter Scott, in the " Tales of the Crusaders," where he is repre- sented as throwing up a thin veil, and cutting it through while it floated in the air, has not unfre- quently been performed. We must close our account of Cairo by a slight reference to the useful and indefatigable labours of Mr. and Mrs. Leider. Entirely precluded, as they are, from all opportunity of attempting the conver- sion of Mahomedans, they have zealously devoted themselves to the instruction of the Copt Christians, who are deplorably ignorant. There are several young men under Mr. Leider's charge, who are pre- paring for the work of the ministry. They are taught to read, write, and sing in English. The Bible in their own language is put into their hands, and they are instructed in the doctrines of Chris- tianity. Many have already given encouraging proof that they have become Christians in heart as well as MISSIONARY SCHOOLS. 215 name, and are now engaged in preaching the gospel in various parts of Egypt. Some of those now under instruction are likely to follow in their steps. Among the students is Galy, an Abyssinian priest, who, after having made a pilgrimage to Jerusalem and Rome, was introduced at Malta to the present Bishop of Jerusalem. He now applies himself with a lively interest to the study of the holy Scriptures, and there is a prospect of his becoming a valuable minister in his own church and country. The mis- sionaries have three schools under their direction, which contain about three hundred scholars, and employ seven native assistants. The children receive a plain and useful education, and their religious instruction is carefully attended to. Some hindrance to Mrs. Leider's useful work is thrown in the way, by the very early age at which the girls are occasionally withdrawn to be married. There are cases when they have hardly reached eleven years before they become wives. Mrs. Leider also acted as governess to the Pasha's daughter, who was lately married. In this delicate task she gave so much satisfaction, that Mehemet Ali wished her to reside entirely in his hareem, to undertake the instruction of other ladies, which she of course refused. She is much esteemed by her pupil, and has consequently the entree into many families of the higher classes, among whom, while caution is necessary, she loses no opportunity of for- warding her great work : her perfect knowledge of Arabic also gives her many advantages. We must not omit to notice the kind and valuable attentions and advice of both her and her husband to 216 MISSIONARY SCHOOLS. English travellers visiting Cairo, and that divine ser- vice is regularly performed every Sunday morning at the mission chapel; in the afternoon, Mr. Leider preaches in Coptic, having some of the Copt inhabit- ants of Cairo, as well as the children attending the schools, for his audience. They have an able co- adjutor in Mr. Creuze, the other church missionary, but he was absent from Cairo during the Daltons' stay. The good work has now been carried on for several years, and we hope and believe that their labours have been abundantly blessed. PREPARING FOR THE DESERT. 217 CHAPTER X. PREPARING FOR THE DESERT BARGAIN WITH THE BEDOUIN THE MUSETTA DEPARTURE FOR SYRIA MOUNTING THE CAMEL THE CARAVAN HELIOPOLIS THE ENCAMPMENT BISHAI, THE COPT THIEVES IN THE NIGHT BEDOUIN TENTS WANDERING DERTVISH THE LOST SON WALK ROUND THE CAMP SANTON'S GARDEN BEDOUIN TRIBUTE THE CAMEL HILLS OF SAND — ILLNESS OF MRS. DALTON ARRIVAL OF A CARAVAN CONSTRUCTION OF A LITTER — FATIGUE OF THE ARABS DESERT TORTOISES — ESCAPE FROM A SNAKE BISHAl's STUPIDITY SALT LAKES. While our friends had been thus pleasantly em- ployed in seeing everything worth notice in Cairo, Mr. Dalton had not been unmindful of the needful preparations for the journey through the desert; and here, again, his kind friends, the Leiders, rendered him essential service. Before the voyage down the Nile was concluded, he had decided that it would not be prudent to attempt to go to Jerusalem by the Red Sea, Mount Sinai, and Akabar. From thirty to forty days are required for that route, and consequently the travellers could not reach the Holy City till long after Easter. It would also delay their excursion through Palestine till the spring was too far advanced, and the increasing heat hardly endurable; and more 218 PREPARING FOR THE DESERT. than all, it was risking too much to make so long a journey through the Desert, with three females in the party. It did not appear, however, that much danger would be incurred from the Bedouins, if proper pre- cautions were taken, and an engagement made with the right tribes, but Mr. Dalton could not learn for certain that he might be entirely at ease on the latter point : he therefore gave up the prospect of visiting Mount Sinai, certainly with great reluctance : but before the shorter journey through the Desert was over, he had ample reason to believe that he had acted wisely in his decision. While Mustapha was engaged in purchasing a great variety of things necessary for the expedition, his master, assisted by Daireh, looked out for tents. They met with two, which had been already used, at a very reasonable price. They were made of the stout cotton of the country, and lined with the same material : both were circular in form, with high conical roofs, supported in the centre by a long pole, which divided into two pieces, for convenience in travelling. One was very large, and could at night be divided into three separate apartments, by means of cotton hanmno-s, stretched to the sides and attached to the pole. A full half of the interior was reserved for the family meals and the bed-room of Mr. and Mrs. Dalton. A good share of the remaining space was appropriated to Emily and Marshall, while Charles had just enough for his bed and a stool. The other tent was destined to be used as a kitchen, and as the sleeping place of Daireh and Mustapha. It had also BARGAIN WITH THE BEDOUIN. 219 ample room for all the more bulky luggage of the family. Mr. Dalton had again to open his purse very often before Daireh could say that everything necessary was provided. Besides the tents, he bought four large casks for water, some skins and leather bottles for the same purpose, an iron frame to hold stoves for cooking, painted canvas bags for the bedding, waxed cloth to cover the luggage in case of rain, and innumerable smaller matters. He considered it best to leave his Arab servants to procure all these articles, con- tenting himself with requiring that nothing not really essential should be purchased. As it was not likely that Mrs. Dalton could bear the motion of a camel, it was decided that she should ride on horseback, and her husband con- sidered himself fortunate in meeting with a strong useful animal, which had come from Bagdad, and carried a clergyman from the north of Syria to Cairo, a few weeks previously. It cost seven hundred and fifty piastres,'" and would have been worth about forty pounds in England. The intention of the travellers to cross the Desert was soon known in Cairo, and an old Bedouin, who acts as agent for his tribe, presented himself at the hotel, to offer camels, drivers, and guards. The bar- gaining with this man was a very tedious affair: his first demand was two hundred and fifty piastres for each camel, with backsheesh to the attendants. Daireh told him that it was preposterously high, * About seven pouuds ten shillings. 220 THE MUSETTA. and was able also to add, that another party had just left who had paid only one hundred and eighty. Even the latter sum he said was too much, and he offered one hundred and fifty. We will not tire our readers by narrating the details of the negotiation, but merely say, that at last it was agreed that four- teen camels should be hired, at one hundred and eighty piastres each; that the journey was to be completed in twelve days; and that, if the travellers chose to rest on the road, six piastres per camel per diem was to be paid in addition. When the bargain was concluded, half the amount was paid in advance, and a contract in Arabic executed before the English consul. After some inquiry, Mr. Dalton purchased a singular machine, called a musetta, for Emily and Marshall. It consisted of two litters, or cribs, of wood work, about thirty inches wide and nearly five feet long. On each was laid a very thick quilt, folded so as to form a kind of mattress, to which were added two large pillows. They were strongly fastened together, so as to rest on each side of a large and powerful camel. "^ Four poles, rising about four feet high, sup- ported a framework of wood, on which was stretched a square tent of double calico, with openings all round. There was room between the litters, on the saddle of the camel, to place a carpet-bag, a basket or two, and any other small article wanted on the road. The linen awning afforded a good shelter from the sun, and the occupants could sit up or lie down, just as they pleased. Any one might have supposed that * Seventy piastres extra were charged for tLiis camel. DEPARTURE FOR SYRIA. 221 such a contrivance contributes much to the ease of the traveller, but the motion is so great as to render it by no means comfortable ; and both its inmates felt sorry, before the journey was half over, that it was not performed in the usual way, on the back of a camel. All the preparations being at last completed, the camels were brought to the door of the hotel by sun- rise, on a beautiful morning in the early part of the last week of March, and the work of loading them for the journey commenced. This is always a tedious and troublesome affair; and there was much noisy wrangling among the men, who tried to shift as much of the load as possible from their own beasts to those of the others. Three hours elapsed before the lug- gage could be satisfactorily divided. In the meantime the travellers breakfasted, and then prepared to mount. The start of a caravan is no very rare sight in Cairo, but nevertheless a crowd was collected to see the Franks depart. Mrs. Dalton was first assisted on her horse, and one of the camel-men took charge of the bridle to lead it out of the town. Then Emily was helped to climb into one side of the musetta, while Marshall balanced her in the other. The huge animal which bore them made the usual grumbling, expostulatory noise, as he felt their weight, and then, while they steadied themselves by the sides of the litter, he rose on his feet. It was now Mr. Dalton's turn, and, as he stepped on his dromedary's leg, and mounted on the saddle, it must be confessed that he ruminated rather anxiously over the expedition he was about to commence. He did not think of himself, nor indeed had he personally any cause for fear, but 222 MOUNTING THE CAMEL. lie felt that it was no ordinary undertaking for his wife and children, and that, perhaps, he was acting imprudently in subjecting them to the risk and fatigue it necessarily involved. It was now, however, too late to draw hack, and he could only hope for the same protection for those so dear to him they had already experienced in all their wanderings. Over the large wooden saddle of his dromedary had been laid a pair of huge bags, filled to the top with various articles. A flat surface had been thus formed, on which was placed a blanket and an Arab cloak of coarse cloth, both folded so as to make a sort of cushion. On this he seated himself, while his legs hung down on each side of the animal's neck. From the saddle rose, both before and behind, a little pillar of wood about eight inches high, which Daireh told him to grasp firmly. The driver had kept the camel kneeling, by placing his foot on its bended leg. He now released it, and the creature suddenly rising, first threw Mr. Dalton backward, then forward, and finally backward again. It was a rough process, and some care was necessary to prevent being thrown off". For Charles a smaller dromedary had been provided, which had small trunks so hung on each side as to give him the same flat surface to sit on as his father had. Two camels were loaded with large casks of filtered Nile water; another carried the tents; a fourth, the bedding, over which was placed a large coop made of palm sticks, and crowded with chickens; a fifth was loaded with skins of water and provender for the horse ; a sixth had a bag of potatoes on one side and a basket of vegetables on the other, while above was piled the stoves and iron frame for the fire, cooking THE CARAVAN. 223 utensils, and other et ceteras. Three more carried our travellers' trunks, the two kafasses, brought from the Nile boat, which had been strengthened by iron bars, a folding table, stools, a great basket of oranges, and various other matters. Daireh and Mustapha were the last to mount : their camels carried bags of provender, &c., and their own clothes. They had each a loaded pistol stuck in his belt, a large Arab gun, also charged, slung at his back, and a formidable sword by his side. Two of the Bedouins were armed with guns ; the Sheikh wore a sword, and so did one or two more of the party. There were seven of these men, beside the Sheikh. The procession was closed by a lad with two donkeys heavily laden with beans for the camels. Having taken a friendly leave of several residents at the hotel who had joined the spectators, the caravan began to move. Mr. Dalton, as he sur- veyed the long procession slowly pacing down one side of the Eskebeyah, could not help smiling as he thought of the eager curiosity it would have excited in passing through an English country town. He, as well as Charles, found the motion of the camel exceedingly trying the first day ; at every step, their bodies were bent violently forward, so as to oblige them to make a very decided bow. As might be expected, their backs soon rebelled against this forced, pendulum-like oscillation, and ached violently. The next day they felt it less, and on the third they were quite reconciled to it. Scarcely had they left the city when they were joined by a Turk, mounted on a camel, a Syrian and his wife, — she on a camel, and he leading a donkey 224 HELIOPOLIS. laden with provisions, — and a Copt, on foot. The Turk and the Copt were going on pilgrimage to Jerusalem, and the Syrian was returning to the north of Palestine with his wife, whom he had lately married at Cairo. They had got information of our travellers' caravan, and, following the custom of the country, attached themselves to it, for security, without the ceremony of asking leave. As the greater the number that journey together, the greater is the safety, no one thinks it an intrusion to join a party. In about two hours, the caravan had passed by the tombs of the Caliphs, and arrived close to the spot where once stood the great city of Heliopolis."^* Here the family, attended by Daireh, turned off to view an obelisk, the only object now left to mark the site. It stands on the outskirts of the land of Goshen, that rich country chosen as the residence of the Israelites by Joseph, and which still is remarkable for its fertility. The obelisk stood originally about seventy feet high, but much of the lower part is now buried. On two sides, the hieroglyphics, beautifully cut into the granite, are quite perfect, but they pre- sented a remarkable appearance. The wild bee has filled up every interstice with its tiny nests, formed of mud, so that the hieroglyphics now stand out in bas-relief, instead of being deeply indented. This solitary monument, which Strabo tells us was all that was left of Heliopolis in his time, or eighteen centuries ago, is surrounded by a large garden. No fragments of stone lying about serve to tell of the magnificent * The On of Scripture. Joseph married the daughter of a j)riest of On. THE FIRST ENCAMPMENT. 225 temple, dedicated to the Sun, which once stood here, nor are there any of the usual mounds of rubbish which indicate the ruins of a long-perished city. Probably all the masonry was carried away piecemeal, to be used in building Old Cairo. Near at hand is a very large sycamore tree, held in great veneration by the Copts and other Chris- tians. It is evidently of immense antiquity, but it may be doubted whether they are right in believing that Joseph and Mary, with the infant Jesus, reposed under its shade, when they took their flight into Egypt. Remounting their camels, the travellers resumed their journey. On their left, the country was very fertile, while on the right all was sandy desert. They paced along the verge of the latter, just beyond the limits which the Nile overflows. In three hours, they had reached the summit of a small eminence, and saw in the distance their tents glittering in the sun. Mustapha had gone on before, and exerted himself to get all ready for their reception. They all looked with much interest on their new mansions, while Charles and Emily loudly expressed their satisfaction at the prospect of dwelling in tents for the next few Aveeks. The encampment had a very picturesque appearance. The camels had been unloaded, and, lying down, were either eating a quantity of green food gathered by the way, or were quietly chewing the cud; the poor chickens had been liberated from their crowded prison, and were busily employed picking uj:) what they could find; the Syrian had pitched his little tent, hardly large enough for himself and his wife to crawl into; the Turk, sitting crossed-legged on a 226 THE ENCAMPMENT. carpet, was gravely smoking his chibouk ; the Copt, who had started on his long pilgrimage with a small bag of bread and a leathern bottle of water only, had already ingratiated himself into Mustapha's favour, who was not sorry to find some one to do part of his work. Barrels and skins of water, sacks of bedding, trunks, carpet-bags, kafasses, and baskets, strewed around, filled up the picture. The iron frame, placed on the sand before the servants' tent, held the little cooking furnaces, and sight and smell satisfied the young folks that before long they might expect a good dinner. The interior of the large tent looked very com- fortable: two mats had been laid down, and the table covered with a clean cloth; two of the j^ortable bedsteads had been set up, and the folding stools were lying by, ready for use. As the Daltons had made a hearty lunch under the trees at Heliopolis, it was decided that dinner should not be put on table till sunset, and the interval was spent in settling the position of the beds, trying how the j^artitions answered, contriving plans for hanging up looking- glasses, clothes, &c., and, in a word, making all the domestic arrangements people are obliged to think of in taking possession of a netv house ; then Charles and Emily sat down to their journals, while Mr. Dalton read to his wife, who was glad to repose on a mattress under a neighbouring tree. At six o'clock, Daireh vigorously tinkled a glass with a fork, — no bad substitute for a dinner-bell, — and the sound gave universal satisfaction. Our young readers may like to know what was the first day's bill of fare: we will tell them, and we think they will say that it was not FIRST NIGHT IN THE TENTS. 227 amiss, considering that it was served up to poor wanderers in the Desert. It consisted of some excellent vermicelli soup, a dish of Irish stew, admirably dressed; a chicken cut into joints, and fried in batter; a small leg of mutton, roasted; a baked rice-pudding, and some stewed mishmish;* while, for dessert, there were oranges, dates, almonds, and English biscuits. An hour's reading and a cup of tea finished the day, and our travellers went early to bed. The novelty of their situation did not prevent them from enjoying a good night's rest. They had been informed that there was great danger of their being robbed by pilferers during the night, and some were seen lurking about; but it had been arranged that at least two of the people should patrol round the camp, and keep watch; so nothing was lost. At a very early hour next morning our travellers were aroused, and not long after, breakfast was ready. Notwithstanding that Daireh had been fully gratified in his wish that they " would like their dinner, and do justice to it," they were all again ready to eat a substantial repast. It was quickly despatched; and had not been finished more than ten minutes before the tents were struck, and all hands were busy in preparing for the day's journey. It took, however, a full hour before all the camels could be loaded, and the march resumed. Bishai, the Copt, had the * Mishmisb, or apricots dried iu the sun, like Normandy pippins. Tliey are stewed in sugar and water, and are exceed- ingly palatable. Tliey are prepared at Damascus in large quantities, and would be much liked in England. As tliey keep for two or three yeai-s, and are very cheap, it is rather surprising that thev have not been introduced here. Q 2 228 BISHAI, THE COPT. previous evening been formally enlisted into the service of the family. He was, in addition to helping Mustapha to wash dishes, to keep near to Mrs. Dalton when travelling, and lead her horse whenever she f>leased to give up the reins. In return, he was to be fed when the little bag of bread he had slung to one of the camels was exhausted, and to have some " backsheesh" on arriving at Jerusalem. According to his own account, he was a Fellah, living in Upper Egypt, and had a father and mother there, as well as a wife and two children. He had felt a great desire to perform the pilgrimage to Jerusalem, but all his friends had strongly opposed his wish, and at last he had secretly absented himself, and set out on a journey which would occupy two months at least, with no more than a couple of dollars in his pocket. On inquiring how he dared to venture on such a great undertaking with so little provision for his expenses, he replied that he was engaged in a good work, and God would take care of him. He added, that he now knew that he was right in the expectation, for already was he taken under the protection of the rich Franks. It is not unreasonable to suppose that a man who had made such sacrifices, for the sake of performing what he believed to be his duty, would have had some acquaintance with the first principles of the religion he professed, more especially as he said that he had waited on the Copt Bishop of Cairo, who had strongly recommended him to persevere in the good work he had begun; but his ignorance was deplorable. He had heard of Jesus Christ, and knew that he had lived on earth a great while ago, and had been put to death; but he had no idea how our THIEVES IN THE NIGHT. Al'd Saviour had suffered, nor of the atonement he had made for the sins of the world, nor that he was the Son of God. He was asked Avhether he had ever heard of the Bible, and replied that he had, and that it was regularly read in the Copt churches; but that he was a poor man, and could not understand it; and the priests read so fast that he could not make out what they said. He seemed to think, that if he could perform the pilgrimage to Jerusalem, and bathe in the Jordan, he should have gone far to secure his salvation; but it was clear that, to have the honour of becoming a hadgee, or pilgrim, and thereby to gain respect among his own people, had also greatly influenced him in his determination. The second day's journey was not brought to a close till six o'clock in the evening, and all the party felt very much fatigued, more especially Mrs. Dalton. She had not been well during her stay in Cairo, and perhaps her visit to the Turkish bath had served to increase her weakness. She found the motion of the horse much more pleasant than either the back of a camel or the musetta, both of which she tried for a short time. The travellers had not yet entered the Desert, as they passed by much cultivated land, as well as several villages : they encamped near one, and the people brought eggs and poultry for sale. During the night, several attempts were made to rob the caravan; and no less than four times it was necessary to fire guns to frighten the thieves. It is not an easy matter, however, to plunder an encampment, as the camels are made to lie down in a circle round the tents, and the drivers, wrapped in their scanty cloaks, are spread all over the enclosure. 230 BEDOUIN TENTS. The young people were mucli interested by two Bedouin encampments which were passed to-day: they were surrounded by a large flock of sheep and goats, with a few camels and horses. These descendants of Ishmael have not changed their manner of life since the days of the patriarchs. They are wild men; their hand is against every man, and every man's hand against them.* Their tents cannot, in the earliest times, have been more simple in their construction, nor their cooking utensils less artificial, than at present. During the spring, they hover on the verge of cultivated land, or migrate from one part of the Desert to another, in search of fodder for their flocks. Many of them are said to be rich; their property consisting of sheep, cattle, horses, and camels only. Mehemet Ali has made many attempts to bring them under his iron rule, principally with the hope of being able to subject them to taxation, but always without success. They are still as independent as ever; but perhaj)S of late years they have, from fear of the Pasha's vengeance, paid more respect to the property of others. From constant exposure to the sun, their complexion is much darker than that of the natives of Lower Egypt; perhaps, also, it may be affected by their frequent introduction of black female slaves, whom they emancipate and marry. Our travellers had noticed here and there a stray locust; gradually they became more frequent, and soon after noon they rode through an innumerable host of these destructive insects. They were about * Genesis, xvi, 12. WANDERING DERWISH. 231 two inches long, and of a greenish brown colour. They completely covered the ground and every tree and plant for a considerable distance. It did not seem, however, that they had as yet done much injury, nor were any engaged in feeding; perhaps they had just settled, after a long flight, and were too much exhausted to eat. Some, which were caught for closer examination, tried to escape by a considerable exercise of strength. In a quarter of an hour, this great army of destroyers was passed, and no more were seen for some days. The caravan was increased to-day by the addition of some Arabs, who were carrying merchandize to Gaza, and a very old and ragged man, on whose back hung a metal dish, in which was a little coarse bread. He spoke but little Arabic, but managed to let Daireh know that he came from some part of Southern Asia; and that he and his son had been wandering for years as pilgrims. They had been twice to ]\Iecca, and once to Medina, and now he was bound to Jerusalem and Damascus. He seemed to be as ignorant of his religion (Mahomedanism) as Bishai was of his; but he laid great stress on the peculiar sanctity and reverence to which he could lay claim after completing his pilgrimage. Jeru- salem, singularly enough, is held in nearly as much veneration by the Mussulman as by the Christian. It owes its sanctitv with the former to its containino- the Mosque of Omar. He was asked, after he had been about twenty- four hours in his company, where was the son of whom he had spoken. He replied, that just before the caravan came up, the lad had gone to a neigh- 232 THE LOST SON. boiiring village to buy bread, with some money given to them by a charitable j^erson, and as he had not overtaken them, he supposed that he had been robbed and murdered by the people. He said this with a composure which astonished Charles, to whom Daireh had interpreted the conversation. He eagerly in- quired Avhy the old man did not go back in search of the youth. "Wliatwas the use?" was the reply. " If he were dead, he could not bring him to life again, and probably the peoj)le would kill him too." The son, who had gone by another road, rejoined his father in the evening, and was very coolly received. It was clear that the old vagabond was not over- burthened with paternal affection. We have called him a vagabond, and so he literally was. He and many thousand others in the East are too idle to work, and too fond of roving to remain quiet; so they wander from one holy place to another, and safely rely for support on the charity of the followers of the prophet, who hold derwishes, hadgees, and santons in peculiar veneration. The first night, the old man, who had seen too much of the world not to make himself at home everywhere, boldly walked into the servants' tent, and curled himself upon the ground. He had given ample evidence, in the course of the day, by his curious researches among his ragged garments, that he had a numerous body of dependents accompanying him in his pilgrimage, so Mustapha speedily gave him to understand that his company was not acceptable. Mr. Dalton and his children enjoyed an hour's walk round the camp after dark. It presented a singular scene. The camels were Ijing around, as WALK ROUND THE CAMP. 233 usual, formiug a very large circle, while four donkeys, for two more had been added, filled up the crevices. The drivers, in two groups, were seated around bright fires made of dried camel's dung, and, while they smoked their long pipes, were talking with much earnestness; Daireh and Mustapha, sitting cross-legged at the door of their tent, were amicably eating their supper with their fingers, out of the same dish; Bishai was watching their proceedings with a patient but melancholy expression, for he, poor fellow, was in the middle of the forty-five days of the Coptic Lent, and might not touch animal food; the Derwish, squatted at a little distance, was evidently waiting for a share of the good things; the Turk had finished his frugal meal, and, rolled up in his carpet, was fast asleep; the Syrian had raised his little conical tent, sent his wife to bed, and, mounting guard at the entrance, was smoking, of course. The white tent of the family, lit up inside, added to the picture. The whole was so new, so totally different from an^i^hing that can be seen in Europe, that it had more the appearance of a scene in a drama than of anjiihing in real life in which our travellers were personally concerned. They could not understand what the Arabs were so eagerly sapng, but the very frequent repetition of khoivaga and hachsheesh, satisfied them that they were not likely to remain long ignorant. They had, in fact, hardly returned to the tent, and sat down to tea, before the Sheikh and two men abruptly entered, and made a speech, in which the words quoted above figured prominently. Daireh was summoned, and explained that it was an application 234 santon's garden. for a present of coffee and tobacco. They were supplied with some, but told that they had begun to ask for backsheesh much sooner than they ought. Mr. Dalton added, that they must for the future consider his tent as his house, and never enter without asking permission. They promised obe- dience, but it was only a promise. All classes (females excepted) are so accessible in the East, that an Arab cannot understand the European love of privacy. We must not omit to mention that the travellers took their lunch to-day in a very pretty garden, full of orange, pomegranate, fig, and other fruit trees. At the entrance was a fountain of good water, and in the centre a santon's tomb. The good man died about sixty years ago, and out of respect to his memory, the well had been dug and the garden planted by his children. Their descendants still keep it in good order, and any passing wayfarer is at liberty to enter, to pray at the tomb, repose under the welcome shade, and regale himself on any fruit which may be ripe. It was not till the close of the fifth day, that the caravan reached Salahieh, the last village in Egypt. It stands on the borders of the real Desert. During the morning, a young man came behind his master, who had the charge of three camels, bound to Gaza, and, without any warning, hit him a tremendous blow with his long and thick stick. The master drew his sword, directly he recovered from the stunning effects of this rude assault, and flew at his servant with great rage. Daireh jumped off his camel, and rushed between them in an instant; while Mustapha and the Sheikh began a vigorous application of their A CLOAK IX DANGER. 235 clubs to the back of tlie offending party. He ran off, followed by his chastisers, and, throwing down his stick to gain speed, soon distanced them, and was no more seen. It appeared that his master had chastised him a short time before, and he had watched for an opportunity to revenge himself. Mrs. Dalton was somewhat frightened, as may be supposed, and her husband, stopping the caravan, and summoning all the Arabs around him, expressed his strong disapprobation of all kinds of quarrelling, and added, that if any one drew his sword again, except in self-defence, or as a protection against robbers, he might rely on being soundly bastinadoed before the governor of the first town they passed, after lea^dng the Desert. The night that followed was rather unquiet; thieves were more bold and numerous than usual; one got into the centre of the encampment, and nearly succeeded in carrpng off the Syrian's cloak. He and several others were chased to a distance, and Daireh and Mustapha were engaged in watching till day- break. There w^as considerable noise, and the travellers were frequently disturbed, but they had now got accustomed to such attacks, and felt satisfied that there was nothing to fear at present from open violence. On Saturday night they encamped by a very ancient well, where there was a large supply of brackish water, which the camels eagerly drank. Close at hand were the ruins of several buildings of considerable extent, but evidently modern : they had been erected by Ibrahim Pasha, a few years ago, when he invaded Syria. The materials used had 236 BEDOUIN TRIBUTE. been brought from a considerable distance, on the backs of camels; by wbat means they had been so soon reduced to their present ruined state did not appear. Here the family rested during the Sabbath, and were glad to spend several hours of the day under the shade of the walls. The tent was rendered cooler by taking down nearly half of one side, but the rays of the sun still beat with violence through the canvas. The nights had been almost cold, and much dew had fallen, but in a very few minutes after sunrise the moisture on the tent disappeared, and the thermo- meter rose rapidly.* The next morning, our travellers, much refreshed by their day's rest, started very early. They had not proceeded far, before a number of Bedouins, well armed, met them, and claimed a small sum of money. For this Mr. Dalton was prepared, and had, before leaving Cairo, agreed to pay tribute at three specified places on the route. Nothing can be done in the East without a long talk. In the present case, a question arose as to whether anything was to be paid for Marshall. About three piastres a head is de- manded from each traveller, but their servants pass free. The Bedouins contended that Marshall was too well dressed to come under the latter head. The point was certainly not worth disputing, but it was contrary to Daireh's notions of propriety to give it up; nor did he. The money is claimed under the pretext that the tribe who receives it guards the * " The sun is no sooner risen with a burning heat."- James, i. 1], THE CAMEL. 237 road, but Is really nothing else tlian a kind of Eastern black mail. For the last two or three days, no guide to show the way was necessary. It was plainly marked out by the number of camels' bones lying to the right and left. During the intense heat of summer, or from over fatigue, the poor creature sometimes lies down and refuses to rise. The drivers know from expe- rience that its end is approaching, and, taking off the load and saddle, it is left to its fate. Wolves, hyenas, jackals, and wild boars feast on the carcass, and what they cannot pick from the bones, is soon cleared away by insects, while the skeleton, sometimes in a perfect state, and sometimes torn into fragments, remains for years. No one who sees much of the camel fails to notice how admirably it is adapted for the Desert. Its broad, spongy, expanding foot sinks but little into the sand; its capability of enduring fatigue and the absence of water is most essential in the country it traverses; while it is so little fastidious in its taste, that it rejects scarcely any kind of TvHild plant. It keeps feeding as it walks, almost without intermis- sion, and by using its long neck, strong teeth, and projecting lips, does so without stopping when it gathers a fresh supply. Our young readers must not suppose that the Desert is generally a waste of sand, without any sign of vegetation. On the contrary, it is often covered with tufts of low shrubs and other plants, which take a deep root in the loose sand, and are seldom more than two or three yards apart. One plant, which is very common, and much relished by the animals, was covered with a little flower re- 238 THE CAMEL. sembling the Convolvulus Minor. It grows in the most arid places, and perhaps is that referred to by the prophet, who speaks of " the Heath of the Desert."* A lono- coarse halter is fixed round the camel's o head, and held by the hand or tied to the saddle : it is guided by this, or by a slight blow on either side of the neck. A good camel may easily be got into a trot, but unless it is well trained, the jolting is tre- mendous. The caravan does not march in any order; it is rather like a fleet of small craft, sometimes spreading out right and left to a great distance, at others coming so closely together, that care is needful to avoid violent blows from the unwieldy packages. These changes are produced by the search of each animal for food. They wdll see a large clump of a favourite plant from a distance, and all make for it, without regard to the jostling which is likely to ensue. By this time, our friends were so used to the motion, that Emily and Marshall often enjoyed a nap, and even Mr. Dalton or Charles would fall asleep for a few minutes on their lofty perch; a practice attended, however, with considerable danger. It is remarkable that under almost every plant may be seen a hole neatly made by beetles. Here they form their nest, and gather with much care every piece of animal manure they can find, which they will roll for a considerable distance to their abode. In this way they materially assist to keep up vegetation, as many of the most edible plants would not grov/ without such nourishment. As a proof that such is * Jeremiah, xvii. G. HILLS OF SAXD. 239 the case, it may be mentioned, that the vegetation is by far the most abundant on the skirts of the path the caravans take. The beetles are of various sizes, but none are very large. They possess wonderful strength, and sometimes may be seen moving up hill a load six or eio'ht times as larg-e as themselves. It is rolled along by means of their hind legs, and they walk backwards when so employed. At other times they were busily engaged clearing out the sand from their nests. To do so, they bend down their head, which, with two front legs, make a kind of hoe, which is forced vigorously into the sand, and they then run forward very quickly, pushing a considerable quantity before them. Our travellers passed several large hills of sand during the day. They presented a singular appear- ance, and had evidently been produced by the wind. There is little doubt but a change in their position and shape must be continually taking place. There was a little breeze, and the light dry sand was drift- ino- along the face of some of them. The caravan passed through a valley, where the sand lay so lightly, that even the camels had some difficulty in making their way. It also crossed a steep ridge, where the animals slipped rather than walked down, bringing large cpiantities of the sand with them. Amidst all the barren desolation, two or three plantations of palm-trees were flourishing : they stood in little valleys, overshadowed by hills of sand, which in some cases had blown down and half covered their trunks. The palms belong to Bedouin tribes, who encamp near them when the food is ripening. The Pasha here asserts his sovereignty over a people so averse 240 ILLNESS OF MRS. DALTON. to all rule, by collecting the usual tax for each tree at that time. The Bedouins are forced to pay it, as they know that it would be easy to cut them down if they resisted. The travellers were obliged to encamp in this wild and dreary region, where, the palm-trees excepted, there is no sign of vegetation, and the drivers had to feed their camels with the corn and beans which they had brought for the purpose. Generally, the poor creatures were sent out to forage for themselves directly they were unloaded, and would often stray to a great distance — not unfrequently quite out of sight. Soon after sunset they returned with great regularity, to eat a few beans which were given them at that time, to entice them together for the night. They were then made to lie down, and one of their legs was tied in its bent state, to prevent their rising again. The increasing illness of Mrs. Dalton had been for the last few days a source of deep anxiety to her husband and children. Everything that could be done to lighten her fatigue was tried. During the mid-day halt, a bed was laid on the sand, that she might repose a little; and the first object, when the day's journey was over, was again to prepare it for her reception. Her husband hardly dare own to him- self that it was doubtful whether she could continue the journey, while she tried to conceal her sufferings as much as possible. The next day, however, she requested the caravan to halt to lunch sooner than usual ; and on arriving at Katieh, where there are two or three wells, many palm-trees, and a santon's tomb, she was lifted from her horse, and placed under ALARMING SITUATION. 241 the shade of the latter. Before she coiikl drink a little wine her husband hastily poured out, she fainted away. Daireh's consternation at the instantaneous change in her appearance was very great. He had never seen any one so circumstanced; and he after- wards told his master that he felt certain that she had suddenly expired. While Mr. Dalton did not participate in the drago- man's apprehensions, he was deeply affected by the state of his vnie, and at once decided, that to proceed any further till she was better was out of the question. The tents were pitched near the palm-trees as quickly as possible, and she was carried to bed. The position of the travellers was truly alarming ; they were some days' distance from any medical aid, and their help- less state so affected her husband, that for some time he was hardly able to collect his thoughts, or consider what was best to be done. The children also felt deeply alarmed, but affectionately tried to conceal their fears; while Marshall exerted herself as an attentive, thoughtful nurse. In the evening, Mrs. Dalton was rather more at ease, but was now so weak she could hardly raise herself in bed. She tried to cheer her poor husband, and frequently said, that she was sure that a day or two's rest would enable her again to proceed. The night, and the greater part of the next day, passed gloomily by. There was but little perceptible improvement in the invalid's state ; and her husband, unable to conceal his apprehensions, hardly dared to trust himself in her presence. He wandered alone among the palm-trees, and gave way to his grief. It was the more bitter, from the feeling that he had been B 242 ARRIVAL OF A CARAVAN. the main cause of her being placed in this forlorn and terrible position. He knew that, if a messenger were sent with all possible speed to Cairo for a physician, he could not reach Katieh under a week, and long before then the crisis would have passed. In one of the tents which he had purchased, the late Bishop of Jerusalem had expired, almost suddenly, in the Desert, a few months before, and it seemed as if it were again to be the scene of another awful visitation of Provi- dence. While Mr. Dalton was thus nearly on the brink of despair, he saw in the distance a caravan approach- ing. In it were two English families, consisting of three ladies and as many gentlemen. They had left Cairo two days after our travellers, and were greatly surprised when they saw the encampment. Mr. Dalton hurried towards them ; and after a brief salu- tation, he told his sad story. The ladies alighted instantly, and with kind and ready sympathy hastened to the tent. One of them had paid some attention to medicine, and especially to the complaint under which the invalid was labouring. The party encamped near at hand; and in a short time, the good lady paid a second visit to her patient, armed with her remedies : they were eminently useful, and in a few short hours the whole family were relieved from their gravest fears; while Mr. Dalton took heart, and was once more able to calmly consider his position, and act with energy. The friendly travellers, who had so providentially arrived, came in a body the next morning to make inquiries, and heard so good a rejDort, that they felt CONSTRUCTION OF A LITTER. 243 themselves justified in continuing their journey. The invalid had another interview ^vith her lady physician, and received much useful advice, while her husband gratefully promised that all her directions should be minutely attended to. After breakfast, she felt so much better, that her husband determined on pro- ceeding. He had the night before held a long con- sultation with Daireh and Mustapha, and invented a litter, which appeared likely to be very serviceable. Mrs. Dalton's complaint had been aggravated by over- fatigue. By using the litter, she would be spared from all exertion, and it seemed advisable to press on to the verge of the Desert as quickly as possible. Her husband, assisted by Marshall, Daireh, and Mustapha, lost no time in preparation. The tent- poles were first strengthened by binding palm-sticks strongly around ; they were then laid about three feet apart, and some sacking was fastened between them by means of thin t\Nane ; while they were kept apart by one of the camel-drivers' clubs being fixed across each end of the sacking. A hair mattress was then placed on the framework, while the j^oles were long enough to be left clear for a full yard behind and before. Mr. Dalton tried the litter, by way of experi- ment, and was carried some distance on the shoulders of four of the Bedouins. He lay quite at his ease, and felt very little of the motion ; the machine answered admirably. After some pillows had been carefully arranged, his wife was gently laid in it, and covered with a shawl. She recommenced her journey, closely accompanied by her husband and children. At first she had some fears that she might be let fell r2 244 FATIGUE OF THE ARABS. by lier bearers ; they were speedily dissipated by the steady movement, and she then felt nearly as much at ease as if reposing in the tent, and indeed she more than once slept soundly during the day. The Arabs, however, soon began to complain of fatigue. Mr. Dalton had agreed to pay them very liberally for each day's work, and had persuaded some of the people who had joined the caravan to take part in the task. There were twelve in all who consented to act as bearers : four were employed at once ; and, watch in hand, he kept his camel close to the litter, and changed them every fifteen minutes. The deep sand they had to pace through added greatly to their task, and the Arab is not fitted for laborious work. He can walk for twenty-four hours at a time, and fast for a couple of days, without any very great effort, but as he eats little or no animal food, he soon sinks under great physical exertion. Complaints began very soon to be heard, and the men had to be kept to their employment by alternate promises and threats. The next day, Mr. Dalton lightened their labour. He lengthened the poles some feet, by means of the men's clubs; the hinder part was then slung to a camel, whose long neck and head projected over the invalid, while two men carried the litter in front. They were paid just as highly as when four were em- ployed, but they refused even now to proceed. After a few hours further trial, the poles were again length- ened, and the litter was slung on two camels ; sub- sequently, two strong donkeys were hired, as their motion was found to be more easy. Mrs. Dalton recovered wonderfully fast. In five days, she was DESERT TORTOISES. 245 able to ride on horseback for a few hours ; and be- fore the travellers reached Jerusalem, she had re- gained her strength, and the litter was entirely dis- missed. Thus, happily, ended an event which gave infinitely more cause for anxiety to her husband than any other circumstance during the whole journey. The young folks were much pleased by finding a tortoise in the Desert ; and the men, seeing how it was liked, soon stocked Emily's basket with more. Two were selected, and papa's consent gained to their being taken to England. For the first day or two, Emily and Marshall were delighted with the strangers ; then the novelty wore off; then they were a trouble; and before long, as Mr. Dalton antici- pated, it was thought best to set them at liberty. Chameleons, also, were not rare, and were often caught, but soon released, except one, which was put into a wide-mouthed bottle of brandy, to be pre- served for Charles's little museum at home. There was also a great variety of lizards darting across the path, some six or seven inches long, and beauti- fully marked : two of the most remarkable were pre- served with the chameleon. One day, the Sheikh found a singular little animal, about the size of a rat, with very short fore-legs, while those behind were very long. It was a jerboa, and looked not much unlike a Lilliputian kangaroo.'"' In catching it, the man hurt it so much that Mr. Dalton had it killed immediately. Wild and desolate as the Desert is, it abounds in animal life. Innumer- * The jerboa is generally believed to be the couey of Scrip- ture. — Proverbs, xxx. 20 ; Psalm civ. 18. 246 ESCAPE FROM A SNAKE. able insects glitter in tlie sunbeams, while scarcely a plant or shrub is without its beautiful inhabitants. How incalculable are the myriads of creatures every- where to be found, placed exactly in the spot best fitted to their habits, enjoying life and happiness in a thousand different ways, under the watchful care of their great Creator, who does not let a sparrow fall to the ground Avithout his permission ! Amidst all the anxiety and depression Mrs. Dalton's illness occasioned, she, as well as her husband, tried to com- fort themselves with the remembrance that they were as much under their heavenly Father's watchful pro- tection in the " waste, howling wilderness," as in the crowded city. While resting at mid- day, Charles and his father used often to collect a plant which grows but just above the surface of the sand, but has long and luxuriant succulent roots. The horse ate it appa- rently with great relish. One day, Mr. Dalton had scooped up one, and with it brought up a snake about ten inches long. It wriggled out of his hand directly, and tried to escape, but after a long chase, he succeeded in killing it. On showing it to the Arabs, they said that it was of a very venomous kind, and were surprised that he had escaped being bitten. Bishai, the Copt, who had, to do him justice, taken more than his share in carrying the invalid, pro- posed, soon after her recovery, that he should be permanently enlisted into the seridce of the family. He said that he should like to accompany the tra- vellers to England, and that they would be glad to have such " a smart man" there. Poor Bishai, like BISHAI'S STUPIDITY. 247 tlie greater part of mankind, was ill able to form a proper estimate of himself. He had all the apathy and love of repose of the Oriental, added to no small share of stupidity. His business was to attend to the horse, but unless carefully watched, the poor creature was left with bridle and saddle on, and without food or water, at the end of a long day's journey. Mrs. Dalton was anxious to collect spe- cimens of the numerous and beautiful wild flowers of Syria, and her patience, great as it was, was sorely tried by her attendant. She would eagerly point to some rare and curious plant which she had never seen before, and he would, with a stultified ingenuity that at times seemed almost intentional, bring her one growing near it of no value. A week elapsed before he could learn that she wanted stalks and leaves as well as the flower, and to the last he gene- rally spoiled the plant in gathering it. Innumerable foot-marks, made by wild boars, were often seen. They abound in some parts of the Desert, and at night travel in large numbers in search of water. Their instinct is remarkable ; and several large holes, dug three or four feet deep, proved not only their sagacity in ascertaining where water is to be found, but the powerful use they are able to make of their feet and snouts. Sometimes the parched Bedouin is glad to quench his thirst at these wells. As the Mahomedan regards them as unclean animals, they are allowed to breed unmolested, es- pecially as they are dangerous creatures to attack. The travellers now caught a distant view of the Mediterranean, to which they had been gradually approaching; and on Saturday, after being nearly 248 SALT LAKES. twelve hours on the road, they reached El Arish. They passed several salt lakes in the course of the day, and great quantities of this useful mineral, which glittered in the sun in large cakes on the shores, were gathered by the Arabs. It was very clean, free from impurities, and well tasted. The water of the lakes was like strong brine. More than one dead camel had floated or been pushed into it, and the body remained in a perfect state. No wild beast would touch the flesh, and the salt preserved it from putrefaction. The road lay through one shallow lake, of great extent. The camels have a great aversion to any moisture, and were with difficulty driven into the water. It was about two feet deep, and the caravan, when distant from the shore, presented a very singular appearance; the poor animals wading knee-deep, held up their long- necks, and seemed very ill at ease. One of them, carrying the kafasses of provisions, stepped into a hole, and dropped down. Daireh and three or four of the drivers jumped off" the camels they had mounted, and helped him up : fortunately there was not much harm done. Their road now skirted the sea for some miles; and, as there was a breeze, the breakers on shore rose very high. Bishai here showed more curiosity than might have been expected. He went down to the shore, and remained gazing at the scene for some time. Charles asked him what he thought of it. He replied, that it looked very dangerous, and that he would take care never to leave dry land. EL ARISE. 249 CHAPTER XI. EL ARISH — IMPOSITION OF THE CAMEL-DRIVERS — DISPUTE WITH THE BEDOUINS — CLAIM OF TRIBUTE SYMPTOMS OF WAR GENERAL FIGHT QUARANTINE AT GAZA — VIEW OF GAZA— ARMED SYRIANS FEMALE ORNAMENTS WHICH IS THE SULTAN? RAMLAH —ENGLISH HADJEES CASTLE OF ABOUGOSH ARRIVAL AT JERUSALEM ENTRY INTO THE CITY. El Arish is on the frontiers of ^jrm, and is the last town belonging to the Pasha of Egj^t. It contains some government barracks, a few storehouses, and a fortress, but otherwise seems to be a miserable place. Around it, the Desert undulates in great mounds or hills, like those already described, and the travellers had sometimes need of a compass to make their way. The caravan would almost slide down to the bottom of a valley, and nothing was then to be seen but a bare waste of sand all round. It consequently did not take the nearest course, and it was late in the evening before our travellers encamped on a piece of waste ground just beyond the town. On Monday, the journey was resumed. All the party were refreshed by the previous day's rest, and 250 IMPOSITION OF THE CAMEL-DRIVERS. Mrs. Dalton again mounted her horse, to the great joy of her family. There were occasional patches of cultivated ground as the travellers proceeded, and several Bedouin encampments were passed. The Sheikh and the camel-drivers, having taken up the notion that, in consequence of Mrs. Dalton s illness, her husband was more in their power, had become increasingly exorbitant and troublesome. Among other things, they had insisted upon being paid as much extra for the two camels used for the litter, as they had received two days before for carrying it on their shoulders. Daireh told them that the camels belonged for the time to his master, and might be used as he pleased. They replied, that they would not stir till they had the money. Directly Mr. Dalton heard of the dispute, he ordered it to be paid, knowing very well that he had the power of deduct- ing it from the balance due to them at Jerusalem. They triumphed in their supposed success, and con- tinued to annoy our travellers in many ways. At nio-ht, two or three would force themselves into the tent ; and Mr. Dalton, after remonstrating several times, was obliged to remind them that he carried pistols, and if they broke into his house they must take the consequences. He had noticed that they had slily introduced among his luggage some mer- chandise which they were paid for conveying from Cairo to Jerusalem. It was contrary to their con- tract; and this evening, his patience being nearly exhausted, he armed himself with pencil and memo- randum book, and, walking gravely round the en- campment, he began taking an inventory of every- thing which did not belong to him. The men watched DISPUTE WITH THE BEDOUINS. 251 his proceeding-, first witli wonder, and then with anxiety. Calling the dragoman to act as inter- preter, they begged to know what the khowaga was doing. Mr. Dalton quietly replied, that they would know all when they reached Jerusalem ; and having finished his task, he walked away. There was a long and anxious consultation among the men ; and then, having first persuaded Daireh to receive back the money they had extorted, they presented themselves before his master in a very humble mood, begged his pardon for the past, and promised well for the future. He received them very coldly, told them that their present resolution was very prudent, and might save them from punishment, but all would depend on their future behaviour. From that hour they were altered men; they became steady, attentive, anxious to please, and, what was still more extraordinary, they ceased to talk of backsheesh. Tuesday was a day of incident. Before the caravan started, a number of Bedouins came up, and claimed tribute. The second portion had been paid the day before; they said that it had been received by the wrong tribe, and that they must have the money. The dragoman replied, in his figurative language, that if they did not go away directly, he would hit their leader a blow on " the place his words came from ;" and if he insisted on having tribute, he must take it in lead. After much wrangling they went away. The camel the cook had ridden refused to rise with him, and evidently was very unwell. He was forced to mount another, while the poor creature followed, without any load. In two hours after, it 252 CLAIM OF TRIBUTE. fell, and died almost immediately. Mustaplia had cunningly selected this animal for his own use, as being by far the best in the caravan. He had found it active, docile, and able to trot well. Always fond of making a display, he had tried the poor creature beyond its strength ; sometimes hurrying forward for a mile or two, and trotting back again, or going off to the right or left in search of the wild boar or the gazelle. A few days before, the Sheikh had warned him to be careful, saying that the animal was worth fifty dollars, while any of the rest might be bought for ten or fifteen. It was very young, and probably its death was hastened by Mustapha's indiscretion. About noon, a detachment of the tribe whose de- mand in the morning had been refused, came up, well mounted on horseback. They stopped the way, presented their guns, and were prodigal of menaces ; they offered, however, to be content with half the sum first claimed. Daireh refused any compromise, and, supported by Mustapha and the camel-drivers, prepared for war. The claimants again went away, muttering many threats. As they galloped off", in their picturesque dress, Avith their long lances quiver- ing in the air, on their excellent Arabian horses, there was something noble and romantic in their af>pearance; and yet what had brought these war- riors across the Desert, and what was the amount for which they were ready to do battle? Our young readers will be surprised when we tell them that the sum in dispute was not more than eightpence three farthings ! In half an hour, the caravan had moved slowly through a narrow lane, hedged on each side by the SYMPTOMS OF WAR. 253 prickly pear, and Avas passing through the principal street of a large village, when the hostile Bedouins again presented themselves, now supported by a large party of their tribe. Daireh and Mustapha made it a point of honour still to refuse to f)ay tribute, while their master and Charles stood quietly by, amused witnesses of this much ado about nothing. After twenty minutes more had been wasted in a hot parley, Mr. Dalton produced the money, and all the clamour suddenly ceased. He and his family were graciously saluted, and while he continued his course, the Bedouins disappeared in a contrary direc- tion. Tranquillity being restored, our travellers stopped to take lunch just outside the village, which was abundantly supplied with water, and tlierefore sur- rounded by fertile gardens. After two hours' further progress, they entered on a wide plain, partially cul- tivated. Several people were at work in the fields, but no sooner did the caravan come within sight, than they abandoned their labour, and, armed with guns, swords, and staves, hastily made towards it. The camel-drivers were not slow in getting ready for action. One snatched Daireh's gun, which Bishai happened to be carrying; others drew their swords, and all gathered together in a body. Daireh and Mustapha joined them, and matters looked serious. Some women, hoAvever, had now come between the combatants, and after a few minutes' war of words, peace seemed restored. Mrs. Dalton, lying on her litter borne by two donkeys, had gone a-head, ac- companied by Emily. As the fray seemed to be over, her husband and Charles joined them as quickly 254: GENERAL FIGHT. as they could. On looking back to see that all was right, Mr. Dalton exclaimed, " What strange people these are ! they were fighting two minutes ago, and now they are kissing !" when, to his great surprise, a body of men came up, and in a moment after, not less than forty people were engaged in violent com- bat. No guns were fired, but many swords were gleaming in the sun. Telling Charles to remain with his mamma, he trotted his camel back as fast as it would go, and making it kneel, he jumped off, and ran towards the combatants. Daireh and Mustapha were as busy as the rest; but the former, directly he saw his master, made up to him, and offered him his drawn sword. He refused the weapon, saying, that he was come as peacemaker, and not to fight. It was a very short skirmish, not lasting two minutes, but one man was lying senseless on the ground, bleeding profusely; another had his arm cut to the bone, and a third his thumb nearly severed from his hand. Enough mischief had now been done; they ceased fighting, and hostilities were not renewed. Mr. Dalton left the scene of battle, insisting that his servants should follow him, and shortly after the camel-drivers and their friends came wp. It appeared that the young man who had assaulted his master, and ran away some days before, belonged to the tribe who were employed working in the fields. The caravan had been anxiously waited for, and directly he arrived, his friends hastened to take vengeance for the supposed ill treatment he had re- ceived. As our traveller's men were the weakest party, they were not sorry that the women inter- fered. Their tribe, however, was living at no great QUARANTINE AT GAZA. 255 distance, and a reinforcement speedily arrived. These were the men whom Mr. Dalton had seen so cordially- welcomed. The brief salutation over, they proceeded at once to carry war into the enemy's quarters. As for Daireli and Mustapha, their excuse was, that it would not do to stand idle; so, for the sake of ap- pearances, they had kept up a sham fight ^vith each other. The occurrences of the day prevented our tra- vellers reaching Gaza before eight o'clock, and then the whole party were not allowed to enter the city, but were escorted round the suburbs to perform quarantine. This farce is duly enacted by all tra- vellers reaching Syria from Egypt. The caravan entered a low court-yard, surrounded by low build- ings, in which they encamped. They might have taken possession of some roomy unfurnished apart- ments, but a well-grounded dread of vermin made the Daltons prefer their own tents. The lazaretto doctor, an unfortunate German in a Turkish dress, soon made his appearance; and his first inquiry was, whether the lady was the same who had been taken ill in the Desert. On learning that it was, he ex- pressed his surprise that she had been so soon able to travel, as the account he had received was very alarming; and then promising to see them again in the morning, he took his leave. The quarantine at Guza seems to be nothing more than an expedient to put fees in the pockets of the health officers. After being detained till noon the next day, Mr. Dalton had to pay fifteen piastres for each member of his family, and was then allowed to depart. He rejoiced to escape so easily, as there was some reason to fear 256 VIEW OF GAZA. that his wife's recent illness would be made a plea for a longer imprisonment. While waiting for the doctor, one of the camel- drivers was seized for a debt, owing by his cousin, to some person at Gaza. There seemed to be such an utter want of justice in this strange proceeding, that Mr. Dalton was disposed to appeal to the governor, but he was told that it was the law (or rather the want of law) of the land; and that, although he could get the man liberated, as he was in his employ, yet that he would be seized again as he returned, so, as his services were not very necessary, he gave up the attempt. The man would be detained in cus- tody till the real debtor took his place, which there was no doubt of his doing as soon as he knew of the capture. The family had a fine view of Gaza from the roof of the lazaretto buildings. It is now a poor, unin- teresting town, but was once the chief city of Philis- tia. The country appeared to be very fertile, and there was an abundance of every variety of fruit- trees growing around the town. A few palms were also scattered about. The landscape gave peculiar pleasure to our travellers, richly wooded as it was, and offering a grateful contrast to the flat and monotonous aspect of Egypt. Our young readers will remember, that it was from Gaza that Samson carried away the gates of the city, and that here he was imprisoned, and perished with the lords of the Philistines.* The travellers had been needlessly detained in the * Judges, cbap. xvi. ARMED SYRIANS. 257 lazaretto, in consequence of the doctor neglecting to make his appearance. He was on the premises, and often sent for, but probably only wished to make his prisoners fully aware of his power and importance ; for when he came, there was no examination of the state of their health. Early in the morning, the Turk had taken Mr. Dalton aside, and placing a bag of money in his hands, requested him to take care of it : intending to plead poverty, and so escape pajang any fee. He refused to sanction such a falsehood, and it was then transferred to Daireh. "\Mien the doctor came, he said that he had no money, and offered to be searched, but the German, casting his eyes on a very good pair of boots which the old man wore, said it was unnecessary; they would do in- stead of the fee : so that he gained nothing by his manoeuvre. The caravan now proceeded through a really beautiful road, vnth a forest of noble olive- trees of great antiquity on either side. The aspect of the country was completely changed : there was a profusion of vegetation, and an abundance of wild flowers. The dress and appearance of the people were also widely different from that of Egypt. Many persons on horseback who passed our travellers were well mounted, well clothed, and apparently in easy circumstances ; but there was one peculiarity which significantly betokened the unsettled state of the country: almost every man carried arms. The horseman had a gun laid across his knees, and a pair of pistols stuck in his belt; the labouring man car- ried a musket at his back, and even the ploughman had one lying near him in the field. It would seem that while actual violence does not often take place, 258 FEMALE ORNAMENTS. no person feels himself secure without arms ; so that every man going beyond the walls of a town takes a gun with him, as naturally as an Englishman would carry a walking-stick. The dress of the people is very picturesque. They are fond of gay colours, and evidently pay particular attention to their costume. The peasant has his coarse brown jacket, figured over wdth slips of cloth of various colours, while those in better circum- stances have their clothes richly embroidered. Fe- males are more scrupulous in the concealment of their faces than those of Egypt: they are wholly covered with a white veil, which, however, has the merit of being kept clean. It was pleasant to see the bright, shining faces of the children, whose com- plexion is much lighter than the Egyptian, and who do not suffer from the superstition which keeps the latter in such a squalid, filthy, miserable condition. No small proportion of the gold and silver coin of the country is kept out of circulation by being em- ployed as ornaments to the women and children. Sometimes they carry several hundred pieces, strung in rows, round the forehead. If a man prospers, he makes use of his wife and child's head as a kind of savings-bank, and when necessity compels him to draw upon it, the valuable finery gradually disap- pears. Emily counted the coins, all of silver, on one child, not more than eight years old, and found them equal in value to five pounds sterling. As they were all piastres and half piastres, the number was very great. It is not rare to meet with a woman covered with as many gold coins. We have already men- tioned that the Mussulman is not allowed by his WHICH IS THE SULTAN? 259 religion to lend money at interest ; all he is able to save must therefore lie idle, and we suppose that consequently this customary display of wealth has arisen. Half the coins in actual circulation have a small hole punched through them, shomug that they have, at some time or other, done duty as orna- ments. A group of women sitting by the wayside, asked Daireh, as the caravan passed, "Which is the Sultan f meaning the great man, or chief of the party. Mrs. Dalton w^as on horseback, a little ahead, and Bishai had hold of the bridle. When the dragoman inquired which they thought it was likely to be, they said they supposed that it was the man that was riding before the rest. The young people laughed heartily at this curious mistake, and for some time their mamma did not lose the honour- able appellation she had thus gained. Probably her sex was mistaken in consequence of her face being- unveiled. The people of the East are, like the lower orders of the Irish, very liberal in bestowing titles when anything is to be gained. Now and then, children would run after the dragoman, calling out, " Sulieman Pasha, give us some backsheesh !" They are indefatigable beggars, and, now and then, use some of the arts of a practised London mendicant. A boy came up one day, apparently with great effort, and dragging what seemed to be a paralysed leg along the ground : no sooner had he got a trifle than he jumped up, and ran away, with a laugh. After two long days of travel through a fruitful and goodly land, the Daltons reached Piamlah. For several miles, their course had lain through the rich s2 260 RAMLAH. plain of Sharon."^ A considerable portion of the soil was under cultivation, but there were large patches of waste land profusely covered with grass, herbs, and wild flowers, which afforded a rich repast to the camels. There was also no longer any want of water. Were the country placed under good government, so that each man could sit under his own vine or fig- tree, none making him afraid, there would be no bounds to its fertility. The tents were pitched in a field within half a mile of Ramlah, which is the ancient Arimathea, the native city of Joseph the counsellor. It is now a poor and dilapidated place. A Latin convent in the suburbs receives travellers for the night, but the travellers were too well pleased with their tents to think of quitting them. There was nothing in the town worth seeing, and they did not enter it. In a distant part of the field where they encamped was a large rectan- gular pool of water, surrounded by stone walls ; the frogs in it made so great a noise that the young people could not be convinced that it did not proceed from some other and much larger creature, till they had gone up to the pool. The next day brought their present pilgrimage to a close. The caravan started at half-past seven, and in a short time the rich plain of Sharon was ex- changed for a wild and rugged district. The travel- lers had now reached the " hill country of Judea " Having ascended for some time, and gained a splendid view of the lovely region which they had just quitted, they entered the mountains by a narrow gorge, and * It is supposed that the " Eose of Sharon" (Canticles ii. 1) -was a species of cistus, which grows abundantly in this plain. ENGLISH HADJEES. 261 found themselves shut in by ^^kl, barren heights. The path was so straight, stony, and rough, that the camels had great difficulty in making their way: going up hill is attended with much labour to the poor creatures, while in descending their motion is very trying. Sometimes there was hardly room for them to pass, and the drivers were on the alert to I^revent their loads from striking against the rocks. The day was extremely hot, and the fatigue to all the party very great, but the wildness and romantic beauty of the scene made the travellers wish to forget every inconvenience. About ten o'clock, they passed a small patch of level ground on which a large party were reposing, while their horses were enjoying the rich verdure which covered the field. The strangers consisted of the newly appointed Cadi of Jerusalem, an officer of great importance, just arrived from Con- stantinople, and his numerous suite. They shortly afterwards overtook the Daltons, whom they regarded with much curiosity, and saluted as hadjees, or pil- grims. Such was, indeed, the title they bore through the whole of their journey. In Egypt, it is uni- versally thought that the Frank travels in search of hidden treasure ; in Syria, he is believed to be en- gaged on a religious pilgrimage. The people of the East cannot imagine that any one would incur the risk, expense, and fatigue of journeying through the country for the indulgence of mere curiosity. Even Daireh, much as he had had to do with the English, was half persuaded that the family were really had- jees, but, for some reason or other, were not willing to acknowledge their true object in ^^siting Jeru- salem. 262 CASTLE OF ABOUGOSH. After seven hours of very toilsome progress, the caravan reached the edge of the striking and romantic valley of Jeremiah, in which it is said the prophet was born, and for some time resided. On their right lay a number of castellated buildings, in good order and of recent construction. They rose one above another, on the side of a precipitous hill, and commanded a great extent of the surrounding country. Here once stood the city of the Maccabees, the valiant leaders and rulers of Judea, whose de- fence of their country is recorded in the books of the Apocrypha which bear their name. The village and castle are the property and residence of a remarkable Arab chief, named Abougosh. Taking advantage of his formidable position and the dis- turbed state of the country, he and his fathers have for a long period been the actual rulers of the dis- trict. For many years, no one could pass from Jaffa or Eamlah to Jerusalem without paying tribute to the chieftain. Daireh fully expected that it would be levied on the Daltons, and perhaps they escaped only because the Cadi we have mentioned had been invited to pass the night in his castle. Great pre- parations had been made for his reception — for, while these predatory chieftains affect to be entirely inde- pendent of the constituted authorities, they do not fail to ingratiate themselves with any man in power, by paying special court when opportunity permits. It was of importance to reach Jerusalem that night, and, after forty minutes' rest, the travellers again set forward. They had to descend into the valley, and to pass for some miles along a narrow path, from whence some signs of cultivation and a ARRIVAL AT JERUSALEM. 2G3 few houses were visible. In tlie course of the after- noon they passed a brook, from whose stony bed, tra- dition says, that David selected the smooth pebbles he used in his contest with Goliah. The country now became more desolate and barren, and their course lay over a succession of small hills. About nightfall, on attaining a somewhat higher eminence, Jerusalem, the great object of their long and fatiguing journey, was visible in the distance. They soon lost sight of it, and had yet to travel for more than two hours before they reached its walls. It was now past nine, and the weary travellers had been thirteen hours actually on the march. The gates were shut, and they were obliged to pitch their tents in a field, at no great distance from the Beth- lehem gate. The Holy City, surrounded by high walls, and standing on hills which are isolated from the neighbouring country by a deep valley or fosse, could be surveyed at one view. The moon, nearly at its full, had risen, and threw a silver light over the scene. Fatigiied as they were, they stood gazing at the city of Zion for some time, and their hearts were moved with gratitude to that kind Providence which had enabled them to reach it in health and safety. All was silent, except the loud and con- tinued barking of innumerable dogs within the town. As they listened to their noise, Mrs. Dalton reminded her. children of the New Jerusalem, of which it is said, that "without are dogs," — that city in which there shall be no need of the sun, neither of the moon to shine in it.* * Kevelations, xxi. 23; xxii. 10. 264 ENTEY INTO THE COUNTRY. After a light and hasty meal, the family retired to rest, rejoicing that the invalid had so wonderfully recovered as to be able to support the toil of such a day. Her illness had detained them so long beyond the time usually employed in the journey from Cairo, that Good Friday was nearly passed, and at the moment of their arrival, a scene strangely at variance with the religion of the meek and lowly Jesus was enacting in the church of the Holy Sepulchre. To this we shall shortly refer. Early the next morning, Mr. Dalton and Daireh went into the city, and en- gaged two rooms in a house kept by an Italian. They were scantily furnished and without windows, but cleaner than might have been expected. A room below was also provided for the Arab servants ; and it was arranged that they were to prepare meals from the travellers' own stock of provisions, and wait on them just as they had done in the Desert. Breakfast over, the camels were loaded for the last time, and after some formalities, the procession en- tered the Bethlehem gate, and slowly winding through the narrow, rough-paved, hilly streets, it soon reached the hotel. JERUSALEM. 265 CHAPTER XII. JERUSALEM CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE SIEGE OF JERUSALEM THE CREDULOUS EMPRESS FORTUNATE DISCOVERIES MOUNT CALVARY THE CRUSADES-^ THE GREEKS AND THE LATINS THE SEPULCHRE LATIN AND GREEK CHURCHES CHAPEL OVER CALVARY DISGRACE- FUL FIGHT ARMENIAN CHURCH ENGLISH CATHEDRAL, Modern Jerusalem has been so often described by recent travellers, that we will not take up the time of our young readers by going over the same ground. The Daltons had been well aware that they were coming to a fallen and degraded city, and yet, as they passed by the paltry bazaars and mean houses, many of which were in a half-ruined condition, a feeling of disappointment came over their minds. Charles and Emily were not slow in expressing all they felt; but their mother reminded them that, were it fair and flourishing, it would not have been in a state ac- cording with the prophecies which had foretold God's vengeance on the rebellious city. It was still beau- tiful for situation, but it had been trodden down by the Gentiles, and was no longer the city of the great King, and the joy of the whole earth.* * Psalm xlviii. 2. 26Q CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. It was decided that Mrs. Dalton should, for the first day, seek that rej^ose she so much needed, while her husband, accompanied by his children, and pre- ceded by Daireh, sallied forth on a visit to the church of the Holy Sepulchre. They had not far to walk. The narrow street through which they passed, was almost blocked up by piles of oranges, dates, eggs, onions, and bread, lying on the ground, while crowds of pilgrims of all countries, and every variety of dress, were either engaged in making purchases, or slowly pacing along. They then turned down a court, lined by the little shops of the ven- dors of beads, crucifixes, amulets, carved shells, &c., and descending some steps, they arrived at a low door, not more than five feet high, and very narrow. Here a dense mass of people were striving to gain an entrance. Daireh pressed forward, crying out, " Guarda ! guarda !"* and gently using his koorbash, made a passage through the crowd. Having entered, and descended a flight of steps, they found them- selves in a court-yard paved with marble. One side of it was bounded by the fa9ade of the church, which is in good preservation, and has a very picturesque appearance, although of no great magnitude. In one corner was the entrance; it was closed, and a double line of soldiers formed a lane leading to it across the court. They were waiting for the arrival of the Turkish governor and his officials. The rest of the yard was occupied by great numbers of pilgrims, who employed the interval in purchasing beads and crosses, which were spread in profusion on the pave- * " Take care — take care." SIEGE OF JEKUSALEM. 267 ment. Immense quantities of these holy toys are sold during the festival, and carried as valuable relics to all parts of Europe. In a short time the governor arrived, and took his seat in a recess just within the entrance door, while the soldiers mounted guard in every part of the church, to keep the pilgrims in order. The neces- sity for such precaution has been proved by experi- ence, as quarrels among members of the different sects not unfrequently arise, and have sometimes been attended with fatal consequences. Before we proceed to describe the interior of this celebrated and remarkable building, we must give its history as concisely as possible. Our readers will remember that when our Lord entered Jeru- salem, a short time previous to his crucifixion, he wept over the city, and predicted its speedy and complete destruction.* Within forty years after, it w^as encompassed by the Roman army under Titus, and after a siege of six months, during which it suf- fered all the horrors of war, famine, and intestine divisions, it was taken by storm. The wretched inhabitants who still survived either perished in the burning ruins of their city, or were cruelly put to death. The Roman general, incensed by the obsti- nate resistance of the Jews, consigned Jerusalem to utter destruction. The city and its walls were razed to the ground, and the very ploughshare passed over it, as a token of its complete annihilation. It was rebuilt shortly after, but there is no evidence to prove that any care was taken to preserve the remembrance * Luke xxi. ; xxiii. 27 — 31. 2Q8 THE CREDULOUS EMPRESS. of the spots rendered remarkable by events in its former history. We know that after the fire of Lon- don there was great difficulty in ascertaining the sites of particular houses^ although a commission was appointed immediately, to investigate into the claims of the proprietors. We may therefore con- clude that it would have been almost impossible, even if there had been a great desire, to arrive at any certain knowledge of the exact situation of par- ticular buildings and other places in a city so com- pletely devastated as was Jerusalem. In the early part of the fourth century, the Empress Helena, a pious woman, but one most certainly of great credulity, visited the Holy Land, and Jerusalem in particular, to seek out the spots where the prin- cipal events of the gospel history had taken place. She had come loaded with wealth, and her intention to found churches and endow monasteries was well known. There were some places about which there could be no mistake or misrepresentation, but they were not enough to content her: she descended into minute particulars, and her credulity was fully gratified. She was shown the remains of the house of Pilate, the staircase which Christ ascended to judgment, the pillar to which he was bound, to be scourged — even the stone on which the cock stood, when his crowing reminded Peter of his weakness and guilt; besides many other things of a similar nature, and equally unlikely to be genuine. Among her inquiries, it is not to be supposed that the place where our Saviour was crucified, and the sepulchre in which he was laid, would be forgotten. Their exact site she believed that she had ascertained ; FORTUNATE DISCOVERIES. 269 and ha\'ing in a dream, it is said, discovered where the cross on which our Sa\dour suffered was buried, she had it disinterred; finding, at the same time, the smaller crosses on which the two thieves were hung. The pious Empress, thus fortunate in her researches, collected a great variety of relics, and despatched them to Rome and elsewhere. The manger in which the infant Sa\dour was laid at Bethlehem is now annually exhibited in the church of Santa Maria Maggiore, at Rome; the table on which the last supper was eaten is in the church of St. John Lateran, in the same city; and portions of the wood of the true cross are spread all over Europe. The latter so large and numerous, that a small vessel might be built with them. How this can be, is ex- plained by saying, that the cross has been greatly increased beyond its original size by a miracle. By a miracle, we suppose, it also happens that the marble staircase of Pontius Pilate's house, which our Lord ascended to receive judgment, is found at Bonn on the Rhine, as well as at Rome, and that more than one head of John the Baptist are preserved as sacred relics on the Continent. Elated with her discoveries, the Empress erected a church over Mount Calvary and the Holy Se- pulchre, and did not scruple to include many other remarkable sites under the same roof. The inquiries of many learned men, and more especially the minute investigation of Dr. Robinson, the celebrated Ame- rican traveller in Palestine, have ended in their con- \4ction that the Empress was deceived by her in- formants, and that the real spots where our Sa^dour suffered and was buried are unknown. The Scrip- 270 MOUNT CALVARY. ture tells us that He was crucified " nigh to the city,"* and not in it : He was also buried outside the walls, for the watch " came into the city,"t to tell the chief priests that our Lord had risen. The pre- cipitous valley which surrounds Jerusalem must necessarily have prevented its ever exceeding its present limits, while the space it incloses is so small, that it is wonderful how it could have contained so great a population ; nor can we believe it at all pro- bable that any part of the present city was not within the walls in our Saviour's time. If, however, the site selected by Helena were really Cavalry or Golgotha, we must conclude that a large space of ground was not included in the ancient limits. The youug people were anxious to know whether their father believed that they now stood on ground which more than any other on earth would be en- deared to the Christian. He replied that he did not, and gave as his reasons for arriving at this con- clusion those we have just laid before our readers; but he did not fail to add, " they were now standing in a very remarkable place. For more than fifteen centuries it had been the object of intense interest to millions, who had come from all parts of Christendom to worship there. They might have been misled, but the circumstances of the death, burial, and resur- rection of our Lord were not the less certain, and must have occurred at no great distance. We should therefore," he continued, " look at this building with much reverence, as a standing record of those gio- * John, xix. 20; Hebrews, xiii. IQ. t Matthew, xxviii, 11. THE CRUSADES. 271 rious events in ^Yhicll we are so deeply concerned; and while Ave pity the superstition which brings so many here ignorantly to worship, remember that any devotion is better than the cold, heartless neglect of the gospel by the infidel." Jerusalem was conquered by the Persians, and ninety thousand of the inhabitants slain, in a.d. 616. Twenty years after, it fell into the hands of the Caliph Omar and the Saracens, who held possession of it for four centuries and a half. Roused by the fiery zeal of Peter the Hermit, an immense European army enlisted under his banners, and the first Cru- sade was undertaken in a.d. 1095. Most of these enthusiastic adventurers perished before they reached the Holy Land, and nearly all the rest were cut to pieces by the Sultan Solyman. A new host of Crusaders speedily followed; and in a.d. 1099, Jeru- salem was taken by storm after a siege of six weeks, and the whole of its Mahomedan and Jewish inha- bitants massacred. The valiant leader of the Chris- tians, Godfrey of Bouillon, was elected King of Jerusalem, but declined the honour, saying, that he was unworthy to wear a diadem of gold in that place where his Sa\dour had been crowned with thorns. In a.d. 1187, the city was again recovered by the Saracens, under the illustrious Saladin, and has from that time remained in the hands of the ]\Iahomedans. Several attemps, in successive expe- ditions, were made by the Christian princes to regain possession of the Holy Sepulchre, but always without success ; and it is computed that not less than two millions of Europeans perished during the Crusades. For some centuries the Greek and Latin churches 272 THE GREEKS AXD THE LATINS. have been allowed to keep possession of tlie cliurcli of the Holy Sepulchre, and each has also a convent in Jerusalem; they are permitted to appropriate part of the church to their own peculiar service, while other portions of less magnitude have been granted to the Copt, Armenian, and Abyssinian Christians. At Easter, great multitudes of pilgrims of all these denominations arrive in Jerusalem from various parts of Europe, Asia, and Africa. Many come from so great a distance, that months are consumed in the journey, and many are so poor that they perish for want by the way. The Greeks and Latins, while they worship a common Saviour, hate each other so bitterly, that the spot they both pro- fess to venerate as the holiest on earth, is frequently, at this season, the scene of contests which sometimes end in bloodshed. While we gratify our curiosity in examining the various objects which superstition has here heaped together, and look with pity on the poor people who are busily employed in performing ceremonies which they are taught will ensure their eternal salvation, let us not forget that pure Christianity may be obscured by man's inventions, and defiled by his cor- ruptions, but its truth and infinite importance still remain unchanged and undiminished. The first object which attracted the attention of the Daltons was a slab six feet long and three broad, slightly raised above the floor, with enormous wax tapers standing at each corner. Every pilgTim, as he entered, knelt down and kissed the marble. It is called " The Stone of Unction," but is only a cover to another slab of similar size, on which our THE SEPULCHRE. 273 Lord's body was laid to be anointed, Near it is a small circular space, enclosed by an iron railing, in- dicating the spot where the Virgin Mary sat while the preparations for interment were made. Our travellers now entered that portion of the building in which is the Holy Sepulchre. It is cir- cular in form, and covered by a large dome, round which there is a gallery. In the centre, is a small chapel built of marble, into which the pilgrims, first taking off their shoes, were eagerly entering. With some difficulty, Mr. Dalton and his children made their way into the interior, and found themselves in a little chamber, lighted up by many silver lamps sus- pended from the ceiling. A monk stood at the fur- ther end to receive contributions. On the right, occupying the whole of one side and nearly half the space of the chapel, was what we cannot better des- cribe than by saying it resembled a long and very large chest in shape, standing about three feet high, and that it was formed of slabs of white marble, now yellow from age. Some contend that this is the ac- tual sepulchre ; while others, startled at the impro- bability, say that it is merely the covering of that hewn out of the rock in which our Saviour was laid. The Daltons, placing themselves by the monk, left as much room as possible for the pilgrims, who gave the marble a hurried kiss, touched it reverently with their forehead, deposited a small offering in money on a plate, and disappeared. A small antechamber, through which the travellers passed in quitting the chapel, is said to be paved with the stone rolled away from the sepulchre. In various parts of this portion of the building are other small chapels, belonging T 274 LATIN AND GREEK CHURCHES. to tlie Copts, Maronites, Abyssinians, and other Christians. The Latin church stands on the spot where Christ appeared to the women after his resurrection, and near the entrance is the pillar to which our Saviour was bound. It is covered from sight, but the pilgrims push in a stick through a hole, touch it, and then devoutly kiss the end. The Greek church is very large, and is loaded with gilding, paintings, and gaudy ornaments. It was a few years ago nearly destroyed by fire, and has been restored at a great outlay of money, and a very small expense of taste. Around it, is a low and dark pas- sage, containing many small chapels, all remarkable as the scene of some event connected with the cruci- fixion. It was difficult to learn what legend was attached to each ; for in some cases, the priests or other functionaries, seeing that they were addressed by heretics, absolutely refused to give any informa- tion. In one is the stone on which our Saviour sat, when mocked by the Roman soldiers ; another stands on the place where they cast lots for his seamless garment ; and another leads to the prison where our Lord was confined, after his condemnation. Among these is a large opening by which a descent is made by many steps to a dark and large cavern. At the extremity is the place from which the crosses were dug out, while the spot where the Empress Helena sat to watch the work-people employed in the dis- covery is also indicated. The travellers now proceeded to the chapel erected on, or rather over. Mount Calvary. The rock on CHAPEL OVER CALVARY. 275 which the crucifix is said to have been placed stands some twenty feet above the level of the Sepulchre and the Stone of Unction. Ascending a narrow marble staircase^ they found themselves in a small and richly ornamented chapel, lighted by numerous lamps. At the further end stands an altar, and under it is a plate of silver covering the hole of the rock in which the cross was planted. There is another hole, about a foot behind, which the Greeks say is the real one, while the Latins contend that the former is the genuine. On the right, by the side of the altar, is a gilt grating, which covers the fissure made in the rock by the earthquake when our Sa- viouT expired. It was in this chapel that the disgraceful scene of the preceding evening had taken place. Mr. Dalton learned the particulars from more than one English traveller who was present, and we relate them as a striking but painful example how far men who call themselves the humble followers of the meek and lowly Jesus, can yet act in direct opposition to his divine and lovely example. On the Good Friday of the Latins a singular cere- mony takes place. A kind of drama is performed, in which all the events connected with the closing scenes of our Lord's life on earth are represented by the monks. A jointed wooden figure, the size of life, is used on the occasion; the crown of thorns is placed on its head ; it is nailed to the crucifix ; its side is pierced ; and blood flows from the wound. It is then taken down from the cross, which is placed in the hole where it is said that the real one stood ; it is t2 276 DISGRACEFUL QUARREL. wept over, anointed, and finally, the body is laid in the little chapel of the Holy Sepulchre. After this ceremony, the Latin monks go round to the many altars in the various chapels, and recite certain prayers. They are allowed on this day to officiate at those be- longing to the Greeks ; and when they arrived at that which stands in the chapel on Mount Calvary, they found it covered with an embroidered cloth. The Greeks, it is said, had been eagerly looking for some cause of offence, and it was now given. One of the Latin monks jerked away the cloth in a some- what insulting way, whereupon a Greek priest, stand- ing by, seized a huge wax candle, used in the cere- mony, and with it knocked the offender down. This was a signal for a general war, and in an instant the whole body of ecclesiastics were engaged in an active fight. The spectators, especially the Franks, among whom were several English, were posted close to the sides of the chapel, and thus escaped the heavy blows dealt by the belligerents, while they stood amazed spectators of the disgraceful scene. Directly this outrage commenced, the Turkish authorities collected the soldiers who were posted below, and hastened up the marble staircase. At that moment the Greek patriarch and some of his subordinates had been hustled to the head of the steps, and were precipitated to the bottom ; they cleared the way before them, but had their fall broken by the soldiers who were ascend- ing. Soon after, the Turkish governor arrived, and quiet was restored. He declared, in a very decided way, that the first man who again struck a blow should have his head taken off on the spot, whoever ARMENIAN CHURCH. 277 lie might be ; and then he proceeded to inquire into the dispute. Having heard the complaints of both parties, he settled the question by slowly removing the covering to the altar, which had been the cause of offence, ^vith his own hands, and the ceremonies were then proceeded with. It is melancholy to reflect how exceedingly preju- "(iicial to the progress of Christianity in the East such a scene as we have described must be; and how ut- terly unfitted for the true worship of God was the state of mind of both parties. Their sin and profa- nation were greatly aggravated, if, as was currently reported, the parties had expected and prepared for the disgraceful fight. Several of the priests and monks on both sides were w^ounded, and it was said, that the servants of the church were employed during the entire night, in cleaning away the marks of blood from the pavement. From the church of the Sepulchre, Mr. Dalton and his children proceeded to the Armenian convent and church; an old monk showed them round the latter. It is very beautiful, and elaborately ornamented, in a style altogether difl'erent to an}i;hing they had before seen. In one little chamber is the stone which was rolled away from our Saviour's tomb. We have already described it as lying before the entrance to the Holy Sepulchre, but it is contended by the xlrme- nians, and even sometimes admitted by the Greeks, that this is the genuine. The latter say that it was stolen from its right position, but have not hesitated to substitute another. The Armenians hold their piece of marble in great veneration ; a little chapel is 278 SUNDAY IN JERUSALEM. devoted to it, and lights are kept continually burning before the altar. On returning home, our travellers were agreeably surprised to find Mr. Pilgrim and Mr. Deacon, who had been for some days in Jerusalem, and had just learned by accident where they lodged. They had a prosperous journey through the Desert, and met with no obstruction in their visit to Mount Sinai. They expressed great satisfaction in having been per- mitted to see this remarkable and most interesting spot, and Mr. Dalton again regretted that it had not been more accessible. The next day was Sunday, and the family attended Divine service at the English church. The numerous children of the late bishop were present, and called forth their sympathy. Their excellent father, they afterwards learned, had met with no small opposition in his labours from the members of the Greek and Latin convents. There are a few converts to Christianity among the Jews resident in Jerusalem, but over the rest, as well as over the other inhabitants of a city once so peculiarly favoured, there hangs a more than ordinary degree of darkness, ignorance, and prejudice against the gospel. The family had the privilege of spend- ing a pleasant and profitable hour in the course of the day, at the American mission-house, where they again met their fellow travellers on the Nile, and three missionaries from Beyrout. A chapter from St. Luke was read, and in the conversation which fol- lowed, much light was thrown on its meaning by re- ference to scenes and events which had lately come under the observation of those present. ENGLISH CATHEDRAL. 279 In the enclosure which contains the English place of worship, stands that portion of the cathedral which has been erected. It is rather a small build- ing, and the walls are not more than six feet above the ground. For a long time the works have been stopped by the Turkish authorities, but permission to proceed has been lately obtained from Constantinople, and we may hope that it will soon be completed. 280 DEPARTURE FOR JERICHO. CHAPTER XIII. DEPARTURE FOR JERICHO CARAVAN OF PILGRIMS TOMB OF MOSES LONG PROCESSION VIEW FROM THE HILLS PILGRIM ENCAMPMENT FOUNTAIN OF ELISHA AN ENGLISHMAN IN DANGER THE HEALED WATERS NIGHT ON THE PLAINS PROGRESS TO THE JORDAN BATHING OF THE PILGRIMS VISIT TO THE RED SEA — NARROW ESCAPE THE DEAD SEA RIDE TO MAR SABA CONVENT OF MAR SABA ROAD TO BETHLEHEM BETHLEHEM BACHAEL's tomb AN EVENING WALK. On Monday the Daltons were up betimes, having decided on joining tlie great body of pilgrims who were about to set off for the plains of Jericho, to perform a ceremony considered as an indispensable part of their duty. The city had been in a complete bustle of preparation the jDrevious day, and the dragoman had found much difficulty in procuring horses. Several were required, as it was necessary to take the tents, bedding, cooking apparatus, and a supply of provisions. By eight o'clock, the family were mounted, and shortly after left Jerusalem by St. Stephen's gate. The road and sides of the hills were covered by thousands of people, watching the departure of the caravan. It was a beautiful sight: the picturesque dress and gay colours of the Syrians gave life and CARAVAN OF PILGRIMS. 281 animation to the environs of the city, quite at variance with the usual ap][Dearance of this solitary and almost deserted region. The country through which the pilgrims had to pass, as well as the plains of Jericho, is infested by a lawless tribe of Bedouins, who seem to bid defiance to the Turkish authorities. On this occasion, however, three large bodies of soldiers were employed to protect the pilgrims, and perhaps also to keep order among them. One left early in the morning, to lead the van; another took its place in about the centre of the caravan; and the last, accompanied by the governor of the city, fol- lowed in the rear. Every horse, donkey, and camel that Jerusalem, and the country for many miles round, could furnish, was engaged on the occasion. There were not less than a thousand camels in the procession, each well laden with two, three, or four individuals, packed in a kind of crate slung on each side the animal. The poorer pilgrims walked, while others rode on horses or donkeys. All the Frank travellers were mounted on horseback. In about an hour the Daltons had overtaken the great body of pilgrims, having passed by many wild- looking Bedouins, who were stationed in various parts of the road, in small comj^anies, attracted either by curiosity, or the hope of meeting ^^th stragglers from the main body, whom they could rob. Easter week is a great festival time with the Mus- sulman as well as the Christian, and several comj)a- nies of Svrians, Turks, and Arabs, were marching in procession to the sound of a rude drum, in the same direction as the Christian pilgrims. They were 282 TOMB OF MOSES. bound to tlie "Tomb of Moses," wbicli is held in much veneration by the Mahoraedans, and is situated about eight miles from Jerusalem. Noah, Abraham, Moses, David, and Solomon, are all honoured by them as jDrophets, in accordance with the injunctions of the wily founder of their religion, who borrowed largely from the Old and New Testament in com- piling the Koran. We are told in the Bible, that Moses was not permitted to enter the promised land, that he went up into a mountain to die, and that no man knoweth the place of his sepulture.* How his body was conveyed over the Jordan, and how the Mussulman found out where it was laid, it would be difficult to say. Neither Christian nor Jew give any belief to this tradition. There was a good deal of uproarious merriment among these people: they would occasionally break out into a dance, or sing one of their rude songs, and continually fired the guns they carried. The horses in Syria are well accustomed to the report of fire-arms, for none ap- peared to be frightened, or even to notice the noise. The country had now become very wild and hilly, and as the procession, which was at least five miles long, wound among the hills, and might be seen threading its way far down into a valley below, or slowly climbing over a distant eminence, it presented one of the most picturesque and remarkable sights it had ever been our travellers' lot to witness. The camels proceeded very slowly, and frequent accidents took place; the road was sometimes so steep, that some had to be pushed up the hill, while others could * Deuteronomy, xxxiv. 5, 6. LOXG PROCESSION. 283 hardly be forced to venture down the rapid descents. The poor pilgrims, among whom were many women and children, appeared to relish but little their position in the crates, and many screamed out from fear. By taking a more difficult path than was prac- ticable for the great body of the people, Mr. Dalton and Charles were able to pass on more rapidly than by keeping in the line. Emily and her mother were left in charge of two English friends as well as of Daireh, while Mustapha and the baggage-horses fol- lowed their master. The two roads were nearly parallel, and Mr. Dalton had thus an excellent oppor- tunity of surveying a great portion of the procession. He expected that, as he travelled so much more quickly than the pilgrims, he should at last have almost got to the van; but on reaching the eminence which commands the vast plain of Jericho, he found that a large proportion had already reached the en- camping ground. So great was the multitude, that it is probable the caravan must at one time have been spread over ten miles of the road. The view which greeted his eyes was of vast extent and of surpassing interest. Before him lay the long range of the mountains of Moab, while the Jordan seemed to wash their very base, although really at some miles' distance. From one of these there is no doubt that Moses viewed the fruitful land which he was not permitted to enter.* To the left, on this side the river, were other lofty mountains. The highest is called Mount Quarantania, being that on which, * Deuterouorav, xxxiv. i. 284 VIEW FROM THE HILLS. according to tradition, our Saviour was tempted forty days of the devil.* The Dead Sea lay to the right, and at his feet was spread the extensive plain of Je- richo, once abounding in fertility, and the site of large cities, but now a dreary waste, with scarcely a sign of habitation. The camp of the pilgrims already covered an extensive space of ground, and it was rapidly increasing as the long line of camels descended the hill by a steep and winding path, and crossing the plain, arrived at the end of the day's journey. Mustapha hastened on with the baggage-horses, while Charles and his father waited for Emily and her mother, who were equally enchanted with the noble view. " Before we descend into the plain," said Mrs. Dalton, " let us try and recollect some of the remarkable events which the Bible records as having taken place on the spots on which our eyes can now rest. We have not to depend on the traditions of men, but have ample authority from the Scripture text to believe, that we now see Mount Nebo, which Moses ascended to view the promised land — that part of Jordan which Joshua crossed with the conquering Israelites — where also John preached and baptized — the plain on which stood Jericho, Gilgal, and Ai, and the sea which covers the guilty cities of the plain. The ground on which we now stand, our Saviour must have often traversed.t Some of the most interesting events of his life here took place : from hence Elijah ascended to heaven in a chariot of fire ; and here Elisha first proved to the sons of the prophets that a double portion of Elijah's spirit had fallen on him." * Mattbew, iv. 8. + Mark, x. 46—52. Luke, xix. 1—11. PILGRIM ENCAMPMENT. 285 It AA'as with reluctance that our travellers recom- menced their journey. They all felt that it was no common privilege to have been spectators of such a scene, and that the noble and deeply interesting picture on which they now gazed would never be effaced from their memory. In another hour they had reached their tents, and having persuaded Mrs. Dalton to lie do^vn on a bed already prepared for her, Charles and Emily, with their father, walked through the encampment. The Frank travellers had chosen as their resting- place a spot on the outskirts of the main body, and might be easily distinguished, from the superior neat- ness of their tents, and the more elaborate prepara- tions for dinner in which their servants were busily enoaored. Close to Mr. Dalton were their American friends, who had raised the ensign of their country. No people in the world have so much national pride as the Americans ; it is well for them that they have so much to justify it. A large and handsome tent stood in the centre of the encampment : intended for the governor, who had not yet arrived. Above it streamed a red flag with the Turkish crescent. It was open in front, and divans were placed around. Here the governor, attended by his ofiicers, would sit for the rest of the day to hear complaints and admi- nister speedy justice, according to Eastern custom. There were innumerable other tents, of all sizes, most of them open at the sides, and crowded with females, who, sitting on the ground, were reposing after the fatigue of the day. Camels, horses, and donkeys were mixed up in a promiscuous mass with the pilgrims and soldiers. Some were preparing their frugal re- 286 FOUNTAIN OF ELISHA. past, while Bedouin women were constantly coming in, with large bundles of grass on tlieir heads, cut in the neighbouring plain, and intended for the cattle. Just beyond the camp flowed a deep and rapid, but narrow brook, whose banks were lined with men and animals slaking their thirst. On the other side of the stream was a large copse of bushes and small trees, in which every patch of shade was crowded with those who had no better covering from the ardent rays of the sun. After an early dinner, Mr. Dalton and Charles joined a few other travellers in a short excursion to the Fountain of Elisha. Some of the Bedouins of the neighbourhood were hired to accompany them as a guard. They proceeded in the direction of Mount Quarantania, passing by the spot where once stood Jericho. So little now remains of this ancient city, that its exact site is not clearly ascertained; but it is certain that it cannot have been far distant. The withered trunk of a solitary palm is all that is left of the forest which gave it the title of the City of Palm-trees. All was desolate, and although the soil is evidently rich, there were very scanty signs of cultivation. The whole district seems to be given up to wild and predatory Bedouins. The travellers were making their way through an extensive wood of low trees and shrubs, the Bedouins running before them fast enough to keep their horses in a smart trot, when suddenly their attention was arrested by the sight of an Englishman kneeling on the ground, surrounded by two men on horseback and six on foot. It was clear that they were about to strip if not to murder him, and the arrival of the AN ENGLISHMAN IN DANGER. 287 party was most fortunate. In a moment tlie ban- ditti had disappeared among the bushes, and their prisoner, rejoicing in his narrow escape, hastened to- wards his deliverers. Mr. Founder, for such was his name, had rashly determined to visit the Fountain of Elisha alone, and having learned in what direction it lay, had proceeded there on foot. While passing through the copse, two mounted Bedouins darted upon him, with lances pointed at his breast, and brought him to a stand. He was a man of great strength and equal courage, and it is very probable that he would have made a stout resistance, but, in a moment after, half-a-dozen more Arabs on foot seemed to spring out of the earth, and he was at once overpowered. Mr. Founder was persuaded that they intended to murder him; but the Bedouin is not bloodthirsty, except when he gratifies revenge, and the probability is that they would have been content with stripping him, and perhaps keeping him a prisoner till the pilgrims had returned to Jerusalem. Two English gentlemen were robbed of all their garments by these people, in former years, and then dismissed. The first, unwilling to join his friends in a state of nudity, begged, as well as he could by signs, for the return of part of his clothing, and had his hat generously given up, while the other was sent away with his sj^ectacles only. A ride of two or three miles brought the party to the fountain. It was a lovely spot ; the water bubbled out of the earth fresh and clear, forming the little ri\ailet which flowed by the camp, on its way to the Jordan. Round the pool made by the spring was a profusion of vegetation, while nume- 288 THE HEALED WATERS. rous trees hung over the water. The course of the stream was also almost hidden by the trees which flourished in wild luxuriance along its banks. Wliile it cannot be affirmed with certainty that this is the fountain whose waters were healed by the pro- phet,* there can be very little doubt on the subject. Its sparkling and beautiful stream would furnish an abundant supply for a whole city. The travellers, in their progress through the Desert, had often met with springs whose water was " naught," although fair to the eye. It was salt or brackish, and refused by the Arabs, except they were suffering from ex- treme thirst. In one case, Daireh descended into an old well, and having tasted the water, his master said, "Will it do?" — "Yes, sir, to save life," was the reply. We may easily suppose that the pool of Elisha was originally of the same description : and being purified by the miracle, the healing power exerted on it by the prophet has never ceased to operate. Close to it is the ascent to Mount Qua- rantania. The travellers went up a short distance, to gain another splendid view of the plain, and then returned to the camp by a diff'erent road. They passed through a miserable Bedouin village, which stands on the supposed site of Gilgal. In it is a large tower, and other Saracenic remains, which are now tenanted by the Avild Arabs. Very soon after sunset the motley crowd of pil- grims retired to rest ; more than two-thirds sleeping in the open air. A large number of sentinels were * 2 Kings ii. 19, &c. NIGHT IN THE PLAINS. 289 posted all round the camp, who continued calling to each other in regular turn throughout the night. In this way they gave assurance that they were not asleep. It was curious to listen to the sound, at one time so distant as to be scarcely audible : it would then increase in strength, till it reached the Daltons' tent, and disturbed their rest ; then it would as gra- dually die away, to return again with renewed force in the course of a few minutes. Before two o'clock the next morning all was stir and bustle. As the pilgrims slept in their clothes, a very few minutes sufficed to transform the host of sleepers into a noisy, active multitude, preparing to start, and talking to each other in a hundred different tongues. Their frugal breakfast was soon dispatched, and by half- past two, camels, horses, mules, and donkeys, were mounted, and the procession, across the plain to the banks of the Jordan, set forth. The Frank travellers remained to take a more substantial repast, as they had a hard day's work before them. It was not long before they followed the pilgrims, and a space of ground, teeming with life but an hour before, became almost deserted. No one remained but the sentinels left to guard the tents. The family soon overtook the line of pilgrims, who were slowly pacing along a wide path marked out for them by large fires on each side. Our travellers had viewed the scenery the preceding day, lit up by brilliant sunshine : now they saw it under a different but ecpially beautiful aspect. The moon, just past its full, shed its silver rays over mountain and plain, and glittered on the trees. A few of the brighter stars u 290 PROGKESS TO THE JORDAN. were here and there visible in the clear but dark blue sky, while the smoke from the large fires passed in occasional clouds over the pilgrims, and partly ob- scured them from sight. The whole picture was so novel, strange, and almost unearthly, as to seem like a dream. The shores of the Jordan are bounded by one of those forests of shrubs we have already described : it was at least half-a-mile in width, but a spacious road through it is kept clear for this annual procession. The pilgrims were now about to bathe in the Jor- dan, that being one of their principal reasons for visiting Palestine, They come prepared with a linen garment, which, rendered holy by its immersion, is scrupulously preserved, to be used as a winding- sheet. The greater part imagine that their bodies, so clothed in death, will be safe from any assault of evil spirits. The spot chosen for the ceremony is the same where, according to tradition, John bap- tized his disciples as well as our Saviour. The Jordan is a deep and very rapid stream, and may here be about forty yards wide. It has, in the course of ages, cut a deep channel in the soil, and at this time of the year flows in a current some twelve or fifteen feet below the surface of the plain. On arriving near the river, it was not an easy matter for the travellers to make their way through the crowd : many of the pilgrims had already bathed, and were returning to their camels ; but having dis- mounted, and left their horses in the care of their men, they followed Daireh, who, as usual, ordered the people to stand aside, without ceremony. They managed at last to reach the high bank which com- BATHING OF THE PILGRIMS. 291 manded a view of the stream, and here a most remarkable scene was presented to their sight. On the shore beneath were some hundreds of pilgrims — men, women, and children, of all ages and countries — either waiting for room to bathe, or dripping with moisture from their recent ablution. Nearly as many were in the river; some venturing in further than was safe, and others timidly standing not more than knee-deep. The torrent rolled by with great swiftness, and it was with difficulty that the more adventurous could keep on their legs. They clung to each other tenaciously, but now and then it seemed as if some must be carried away. Some con- tented themselves with throwing the water over their heads ; others, more anxious to secure all the benefit of the ceremony, dipped themselves repeat- edly. It was a dangerous process; for the banks are very steep, and an incautious move would have taken them out of their depth. Every year some are drowned, and the Daltons had not been long spectators of the scene before a poor man, who had gone in higher up the river, floated by, wildly strug- gling in the troubled waters. At one moment his head just rose above the surface, and his arms were tossed up, as if entreating assistance, and the next he sunk again : he and another pilgrim perished that morning. A poor woman also fell from a camel, and was killed ; and another gave birth to a child in the neighbouring wood. The pilgrims were so absorbed in their employ- ment, that they seemed scarcely to notice the unfor- tunate man as he rolled by, and not an effort was made to save him. Bishai, the Copt, had accompa- u2 292 VISIT TO THE DEAD SEA. nied his mistress, and when he went to bathe he was told by Daireh to fill a leathern bottle with the water of the Jordan. He was an excellent swimmer, and when he returned, he said that the drowning man passed close by him, and that he could have saved him, but he was afraid that if he made the attempt he might lose his master's bottle I Not a year passes but some of the pilgrims are drowned, and so great is the infatuation, that the rest are almost disposed to envy their fate. The bodies are quickly carried into the Red Sea, where they float on the surface till the wind drifts them to the desolate shore. The wood through which the pilgrims had passed was crowded in all directions with people, dressing and undressing in a promiscuous mass. Delicacy, for the time, seemed to be entirely dismissed. In about three hours all would have bathed, and already many were making their way back to the tents, happy in the possession of a garment of such wondrous efficacy. The Daltons had joined a large party of travellers in hirino^ a Bedouin o^uard to conduct them to the Dead Sea and the convent of Mar Saba ; so here they left the motley crowd, and proceeded in a direction nearly parallel to the Jordan, which ends its course about five miles lower down. After a ride of nearly two hours, through deep sand which tried the horses severely, they once more approached the river, about two hundred yards from the Dead Sea. The shores were covered with trunks and branches of trees, carried down the stream during the rainy season. Most of the travellers went down to the water to taste it, and one or two took their horses to drink ; Mr. Dalton followed their example, but without dis- A NARROW ESCAPE. Z^d mounting, as they liad done. He was on the animal which had been bought at Cairo ; it had been so over- fed by Bishai that his mistress was afraid to ride it. Just as he reached the brink, the ground gave way, and in an instant the creature was up to its belly in nmd; he struggled a good deal, but was fortunately so completely embedded that he could not extricate himself. His rider did not lose an instant in get- ting off his back, most thankful for a very narrow escape from being thrown into the river. His friends came to his assistance, and the horse was rescued, without injury. The travellers now coasted along the shores of the Dead Sea. The sun had risen, and was shining brightly on the wild and barren hills which bound it on each side. The water was remarkably clear, and looked beautiful as it slowly rippled on the stony beach ; but no human being, animal, bird, or even insect, was to be seen — all was solitary desolation. The banks were covered with drift wood, brought down by the Jordan : it had been strongly impreg- nated with salt, and none of it was in a state of de- cay. The party tasted the water with some caution, for they had heard how nauseous it was. Mr. Dalton did no more than dip one finger in, to convey a few drops to his mouth, and this small quantity was so acrid, that it seemed to take the skin off his tongue, and it was long before he lost the offensive taste. Some of the gentlemen retired to a distance and bathed. They found it impossible to sink below the surface,* and on coming out, their bodies were covered * The specific gravity is one-fourth greater than ordinary water. 294 THE DEAD SEA. with a coating of salt, which could not be entirely re- moved. One of the bathers allowed a little of the water to get into his eyes, and suffered much pain in consequence. The travellers sat long on the barren shore, gazing at the " waste of waters " before them. This desolate region, which for four thousand years has remained an unchanged and fearful memorial of God's ven- geance against the guilty cities of the plain, was once smiling and fertile. " There are many," Mrs. Dalton observed to her children, " who try to persuade them- selves that God is too merciful ever to punish man- kind in another world for the sins they have committed in this. They do so in direct contradiction to what He has so plainly said in His Holy Word, that he will ' by no means clear the guilty.' If they would but consider how often, even here below, God has taken signal vengeance against those who have despised and disobeyed His commands, they might reasonably conclude that He will surely perform all that He has said. We see before us what was once a well-watered plain, ' even as the garden of the Lord,''^ covered by prosperous and populous cities. And what is it now ? A mass of water which no one can use — without life — and covering for ever those wretched men who ' were wicked and sinners before the Lord exceedingly. 't Terrible as was their fate, our Saviour tells us that in the day of judgment it shall be more tolerable for Sodom than for those who wilfully reject his message of salva- tion."t * Genesis, xiii. 10. + Genesis, xiii. ]3. + Matthew, xi. 24. THE DEAD SEA. 295 It is surprising how little is known of the shores of the Dead Sea; and they have been but very rarely explored by travellers. An Irishman, named Costigan, some fifteen years ago, conveyed a boat to its waters, and, aided by an old Maltese sailor, rowed nearly all round. He spent a week in the investigation, and he believed that he saw in some places the remains of the giiilty cities lying at the bottom. This is not probable; but no one has ever learned the result of his labour, for on the eighth day he became so seriously ill, that he was brought to the shore by his companion, and died soon after in a Bedouin's hut. There is one remarkable circumstance connected with the Dead Sea which is not generally known : its waters are no less than thirteen hundred feet below the level of the Mediterranean; and the lake of Tiberias, through which the Jordan flows, about seventy miles further north (in a direct line) is also upwards of three hundred feet below the Mediter- ranean. It is thought by some that a remarkable passage in Ezekiel* refers to the Jordan and the Dead Sea, and that a time will come when the pro- phecy shall be literally fulfilled, and "the waters shall be healed." The plain of Jericho and the valley of the Jordan, shut in as they are by mountains on all sides, are by far the hottest part of Syria, The sun had already gained great force, and, after resting for an hour, the party were glad to make their escape to a cooler region. They had arrived at the north-west corner * Ezekiel, xlvii. G — 11. 296 RIDE TO MAR SABA. of the sea, and shortly after began to ascend the mountain-pass which leads to the convent of Mar Saba : it was extremely difficult and fatiguing, but, at the same time, highly romantic; the view of the Dead Sea, the Jordan, the mountains of Moab, &c., increasing in beauty and extent as the travellers advanced. They then entered a wild valley, com- pletely shut in by the hills, with the dry bed of a mountain torrent at their feet. The sun's rays beat down with great heat, and being reflected from the precipices on each side, were at times scarcely en- durable. One of the company rode a little a-head, and laid down for awhile under a jutting promon- tory: as he luxuriously reposed in the cool shade, he forcibly reminded our friends of the beautiful and expressive Scripture figure — " the shadow of a great rock in a weary land." After a ride of seven hours, they arrived at the entrance to the deep and picturesque gorge at the head of which the convent is built. The road is kept in good order by the monks, and a strong wall renders it safe. On the oj)posite rocks were many caves or cells, which had been inhabited by members of the convent who there sought for more solitude than they could find within its walls. Some of them must have been fully indulged in their wish. Their dwelling-place was a hole in the perpendicular rock, scooped out by the workman hanging from above. The hermit, to reach his cell, required to be lowered in the same way, and there was no other method for supplying him with food. It is to be hoped that none of these good men ever walked in their sleep; a single step out of doors would have sent them CONVEXT OF MAR SABA. 297 headlong into the stony bed of the Brook Kedron, which rolls below at a great depth. Mustapha had been sent on with the baggage- horses, and had already got the tent pitched in the convent yard. The whole party had now been more than twelve hours on horseback, and were so ex- hausted by excessive heat and fatig-ue, that they were all glad to lie down while dinner was preparing. Mar Saba is a convent belonging to the Greek church; it is of very ancient foundation, but has been recently rebuilt: it consists of a chapel and several castellated buildings, which are finely situated on the edge of a precipice. The view in one direc- tion is splendid, but is quite shut out by more ele- vated hills on the other side. The good fathers have so often suffered from the depredations of the Bedouins, that they have now erected a fortification strong enough to stand a regular siege; they are, however, still obliged to conciliate their troublesome neighbours, by presents of bread, &c. Their usually quiet abode presented to-day an animated and pic- turesque scene. Every spare sleeping cell was en- gaged. The yard was crowded with tents, horses, and mules, while a square tower at a little distance was set apart for the ladies, no females being allowed to enter the holy precincts. Those travellers who depended on the monks for their dinner, fared but indifferently. The Greek Lent was not over, and as it is rigorously kept, they were obliged to content themselves with salt fish, eggs, vegetables, and bread. Mustapha had, however, taken good care that the Daltons should not fast. The next mornino: our travellers set out for Beth- 298 ROAD TO BETHLEHEM. leliem. The night had not been very quiet, for horses and mules were so mixed up with the tents, and so often got loose, that there was some fear of their breaking through the linen walls ; no very agreeable expectation, as the portable bedsteads had not been brought, and the mattresses were laid on the ground. Many hills had to be crossed before the travellers reached Bethlehem ; among them were a few patches of cultivated ground, but the country was chiefly occupied by Bedouin women, watching their little flocks of sheep and goats. The wilderness of En-gedi, where David and his followers hid themselves from the wrath of Saul,* is generally supposed to have been situated in this wild and mountainous district ; it looked, indeed, just the place for a band of fugi- tives to select for refuge. David was born in the immediate neighbourhood ; he had spent his early days in taking care of a " few sheep in the wilder- ness ;"t and it is reasonable to suppose that he was intimately acquainted with all its fastnesses and caves. An Arab boy, far up the steep side of one of the hills, watching some sheep which were quietly feeding on the scanty herbage, recalled the sweet singer of Israel to the minds of the family. It was, doubtless, in his youthful and happiest days, when thus employed, that the Psalmist accumulated those lovely pastoral images which abound in his compositions. Emily recited the twenty-third Psalm at her mother's request, and it did indeed sound among those wild hills like " a Psalm of David." * 1 Samuel, xxiv. f 1 Samuel, xvii. 28. BETHLEHEM. 299 In five hours the party reached Bethlehem, and were courteously received by the monks. They were shown into the refectory, and no time was lost in serving up a collation of salad, eggs, bread, and wine, to which a few Sardines* were added. After this welcome rest and refreshment, the visitors were con- ducted into the church. There was nothing remark- able in the interior, except a very beautiful carved wood screen ; it contained also a few pictures, and the usual ornaments and decorations of the Roman- catholic places of worship. They were then taken down a flight of steps to the great object of attraction — the Grotto of the Nativity. It is a low cave, fitted up as a chapel, with lighted lamps continually burning before the altar ; — and this is the stable in which our Saviour was said to be born ! It was pointed out to the indefatigable and credulous Helena, who built a church over it, and founded the monas- tery. A marble trough was also shown, as the manger in which the infant Jesus was laid. The church of Santa Maria Maggiore, in Rome, also possesses the manger, and each is said to be the genuine. The latter consists of a few discoloured, and nearly rotten boards, and is carefully preserved in a magnificent crystal case. On Christmas morn- ing, before break of day, it is carried in solemn pro- cession round the church, while thousands of devotees kneel down as it passes, to pay it adoration. While the possessors of each relic may be left to settle their respective claims, our travellers were glad to feel that *A small fish, caught in the Mediterranean, salted, and pre- served in olive oil. 300 BETHLEHEM. no doubt could be entertained that the neighbouring- town was built on the site of ancient Bethlehem. They were indeed standing close to that spot where our Saviour entered the world on his errand of mercy. The monk then conducted them to another cave, where the massacre of the infants is said to have taken place, and to what was much better worth seeing, the cell of the celebrated father Jerome, where he really passed many years of his life, composed some of his works, and ended his days. He died there, a.d. 420. Mr. Dalton and Charles then mounted to the roof of the convent, leaving Emily and her mamma below, as females were here also excluded. They had a noble view of the neighbouring country and the village of Bethlehem. A field near at hand was shown, as having once belonged to the family of David, and as the place where the shepherds were watching their flocks by night when the angels brought them "tidings of great joy." Not willing to leave anything unseen, the tra- vellers next went to another cave, at some little dis- tance from the convent. It was large and dark, and is increasing in extent, as the Syrian women are con- tinually scraping off part of the sides and roof to be used as a very efficacious remedy in female complaints. Here it is said the Virgin and infant child were con- cealed, before Joseph was able to escape with them into Egypt. Having bought a few rosaries and other trifles, which are made in great numbers in the neighbourhood, they presented the convent with a small sum in return for the very courteous at- tention of the monks ; and slowly riding through the Rachel's tomb. 301 narrow streets of Bethlehem, they took the road to Jerusalem. Some of the party went a few miles round, to see the very fine and large reservoirs of water, generally believed to have been originally constructed by Solomon. It is, however, certain that the masonry now visible was built by the Saracens, and as Mrs. Dalton was much fatigued, her husband thought it best not to lengthen the day's journey. In tAvo hours they had reached the descent of the Hill of Evil Counsel. After crossing the Valley of Hinnom, and climbing up the Hill of Zion, they entered Jerusalem by Zion gate, and soon reached their lodgings. On their road, they passed the Tomb of Rachel, which probably is rightly so called.* It is concealed by a modern brick building, covered with plaster, and is held in great veneration even by the Mussulman, who counts it a privilege to be buried near it. It is singular that while they hold the modern Jew in utter contempt, they pay remark- able respect to most of the patriarchs, prophets, kino-s, and other remarkable characters of the Old Testament. Over the tomb of David, for example, situated near Zion gate, is erected a mosque which is held in great veneration ; neither Jew nor Christian being allowed to pollute it by their presence. About eight o'clock in the evening, Mr. Dalton and his children, preceded by Daireh, bearing a lamp, went to bid farewell to Mr. Pilgrim and Mr. Deacon, who were to leave early the next morning for the north of Syria. They were sorry to part * Genesis, xlviii. 7. 302 AN EVENING WALK. with their intelligent and pleasant friends, but these gentlemen were anxious to visit Turkey, and reach Europe before the hot weather came on, and very reluctantly shortened their stay at Jerusalem. The streets through which they had to pass were quite deserted, and there was not a single lamp or even light from the houses to be seen ; it seemed like a city of the dead, except that now and then they stumbled over a sleeping dog. Such is the usual aspect of Eastern towns at an early hour of the night : it is the policy of the government to keep people at home as much as possible after dark. TOMB OF DAVID. 303 CHAPTER XIV. TOMB OF DAVID VALLEY OF HIXNOM POOL OF SILOAM VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT MOUNT MOKIAH ANCIENT FOUNDATIONS MOUNT OF OLIVES GARDEN OF GETHSE- MANE — TOMB OF THE VIRGIN MOSQUE OF OMAR GREEK CEREMONIES PLACE OF WAILING THE COPT's PROPOSAL BETHANY THE HOLY FIRE — VIOLENT EXCITEMENT MOCK MIRACLE CREDULITY OF THE PILGRIMS TOMBS OF THE KINGS REMINISCENCES THE LATIN CONVENT. OuK travellers had as yet seen but little of Jerusalem. The next morning was devoted to a careful survey of the exterior of the city. Mrs. Dalton was mounted on her horse, which was somewhat sobered down by the work of the last three days ; Captain Huntly, a gentleman they had met at Thebes, and on the plains of Jericho, kindly accompanied them. Leaving the city by Zion gate, they again saw the mosque cover- ing the supposed burial-place of Da\ad, which stands on part of the Hill of Zion. If this be really the spot, the walls must formerly have inclosed it, for the Bible says that the King was buried i7i the city of David.-^ To the left was the Valley of Hinnom, the bottom of which lies far below the city. Here the abominable rites in honour of Moloch were cele- brated jt and here was thrown, by command of good * 1 Kiugs, ii. 10. + 2 Kings, xxiii. 10. Ezekiel, xxiii. 37 — 39. 304 VALLEY OF HINNOM. kin^ Josiab, all that could desecrate and defile the idolatrous sanctuary. At some little distance stands "the Mount of Offence," so called because it is believed that on it Solomon erected an idolatrous temple. " Moloch, horrid king, besmear'd with blood Of human sacrifice, and pai'ents' tears ; Though for the noise of drums and timbrels loud Their children's cries unheard, that pass'd through fire To his grim idol. Him the Ammonite Worshipp'd in Rabba and her wat'ry plain, In Argob and in Basan, to the stream Of utmost Arnou. Nor content with such Audacious neighbourhood, the wisest heart Of Solomon he led by fraud to build His temple right against the temple of God, On that opprobrious hill, and made his grove The pleasant valley of Hinuom, Tophet thence And black Gehenna call'd, the type of Hell." Milton. The Hill of Evil Counsel, opposite, is the site of the Potter's Field, according to the best authorities ; the Armenians have a cemetery there, where strangers are still buried.* Our travellers did not cross the causeway which bounds the Valley of Hinnom, and commences the road to Bethlehem, but turning to the left, kept close under the city walls, for some little distance, and then descended to the Pool of Siloam. It is now in a dilapidated state; there is an outer reservoir lined with stone, in which a little stagnant water was lying: this may have been the pool. Some * Matthew, xxvii. 7. POOL OF SILOAM. 305 stone steps, mucli worn, lead to the fountain, which still has a good supply of excellent water. Many of the people from the village of Siloam were there with pitchers, to carry away a supply : they have to bear it a long distance on their head. The water flows away in a considerable stream, in which some women were washing clothes. It is carried along the upper part of a very fruitful valley carefully cultivated, from which Jerusalem is principally sup- plied with vegetables. Some men were employed irrigating portions of the gardens much in the same way as the land is watered in Egypt. Many vege- tables, which are not ready in England till the sum- mer, were here growing in profusion, and fit to gather. Not far from the gardens is another pool, called the Well of Nehemiah; it is evidently very ancient, and apparently now disused. A large mul- berry-tree grows to the right; it is of great anti- quity, and is fenced round to preserve it from injury. Tradition says, that Isaiah was martyred on the spot where it stands. On visiting the fountain of Siloam a second time, Mr. Dalton saw clearly that it did not rise from that spot. There is a channel of stone arched over, which it would not have been difficult to have tra- versed, and, indeed, he made his way through it for a few yards. At a considerable distance, is a well called the Fountain of the Virgin; access to which is gained by descending a long flight of steps. The passage we have mentioned, it has been lately dis- covered, reaches as far as this fountain, and by it the water is conveyed to the Pool of Siloam. It is remarkable that the channel, so far from being in a X 306 VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT. straight line, is nearly double the necessary length, as if the excavators had worked at random. Opposite to the pool, and looking over the Valley of Jehoshaphat, is the village of Siloam. Its appear- ance, hanging as it does on the side of a hill, is very picturesque. The houses are substantially built of stone, and some are very ancient. Many of the in- habitants reside also in rifled tombs, excavated in the solid rock. The village is very rarely visited by Europeans, as the peoj^le, who are numerous, have the character of being exceedingly rude and lawless. Here must have stood that tower to which our Saviour referred, by whose fall eighteen persons perished.* The Daltons and their friend now proceeded along the Valley of Jehoshaphat in a direction nearly north. The dry channel of the Brook Kedron lies considerably below the ancient pathway, which runs parallel to the eastern wall of the city. Having passed by the Pool of the Virgin, which we have already mentioned, they arrived at four remarkable tombs, appropriated by ancient tradition to Zacharias, James, Absalom, and Jehoshaphat. They are all cut out of the solid rock, which has been hewn away for some distance at the back and sides, so as to detach them from the hill. Those ascribed to James and Jehoshaphat are excavated chambers, long since robbed of their tenants; but no entrances to the tombs of Absalom and Zacharias have been dis- covered, and it is probable that they are of solid stone, and, in fact, have never been used as burial- * Luke, xiii. 4. MOUNT MORIAH. 307 places. All have some pretension to architectural decoration, and in some parts they are still very per- fect. That of Absalom is square, and is ornamented by six Doric columns on each side ; on the top is placed an immense stone of conical form, with a cornice round the base. The whole ornament is in good condition, considering its great age. It is said that no Jew ever passes without throwing a stone against it, to mark his detestation of the rebellious son of David. There were a few fragments lying at the base, but not so many as to render it probable that the ceremony is generally observed. We read in the Bible, that Absalom, in his lifetime, reared a pillar in the King's Dale, to perpetuate his memory, having no son ;* and in all probability this is the monument he erected. On the side of the hill, for a great distance above and around the tombs, is the burial-place of the Jews. Innumerable small slabs of stone, with Hebrew inscriptions, cover the earth. Thousands of the scattered children of Israel have come from far countries to lay their bones in the hallowed spot; and many a foreign Jew is now waiting in Jerusalem for the hour of death, that he may be added to the myriads sleeping there. On the other side of the deep valley is Mount Moriah, on which the Temple once proudly stood. It seems evident that the base of the hill was first bounded by a colossal wall, whose foundation rested in the valley below, and that a noble and extensive horizontal platform was made by filling up the space between the perpendicular wall and the sloping sides * 2 Samuel, xviii. 18. X 2 308 ANCIENT FOUNDATIONS. of the hill. Perhaps it was produced by throwing the soil from the summit into the vacant space. The greater part of the huge wall is of comparatively recent construction, but there is every reason to believe that the lower tiers of stone, at the south corner and elsewhere, have remained unmoved since the building of the last Temple, even if they do not belong to the age of Solomon. They are of much greater magnitude than the rest ; are bevelled at the edge, and altogether different from the other masonry. We will not trespass on our young readers' patience, by detailing the reasons which have in- duced Dr. Kobinson, and other diligent inquirers into Jewish antiquities, to arrive at this conclusion, but merely say that our travellers were satisfied with their arguments, and that few who have the privilege of personally examining them can entertain much doubt on the subject. Beyond question, our Lord's prophecy, that one stone should not be left upon another,* was literally fulfilled, but He spake of the Temple, and not of the terrace on which it was built. On a previous occasion. He uttered a similar prophecy against the whole city ;t but he went no further than to say, that the enemy should lay it " even with the ground." Wliere once rose the magnificent Temple of the Jews now stands the Mosque of Omar, and Christian as well as Israelite is rigidly excluded from placing his foot on Mount Moriah. In the upper part of the wall, which bounds it on this side, is a large project- ing stone, on which the Mussulmans believe that * Luke,xxi. 5,6. t Luke, xix. 43, 44. MOUNT OF OLIVES. 309 Christ will sit to judge the world. This is most re- markable. The more zealous, also expect that the false prophet will assist our Saviour at the last day, in his great and awful division of the righteous from the wicked ; but they all admit, that before the end of time, the whole body of Mahomedans are to become Christians. The Daltons were told by some, that they have the authority of the Koran for such belief, but had no opportunity of ascertaining whether they were right in saying so. A growing conviction, how- ever, is spreading through the East, that a great change is near at hand ; and it is very evident that the proud contempt of the bigoted Mussulman for the Christian is rapidly giving way to a feeling of fear and respect. Although at present few or no con- verts are made, yet when once the work begins there is every probability that Mahomedanism will fall even faster than it rose. Opposite to Mount Moriah rises the Mount of Olives, whose summit is crowned by an ancient church, erected on the place from whence tradition says our Lord ascended. Here again, tradition and Scripture are at variance, and we must of course abide by the latter. The Bible says, that Jesus, having led the apostles out as far as Bethany^ blessed them, and while thus engaged, was parted from them.* Now Bethany lies to the right, at the foot of the Mount of Olives, and nearly two miles distant. At the side of the road, and opposite the walls of Jerusalem, is a field surrounded by a rough, low * Luke xxiv. 50, 51. 310 GARDEN OF GETHSEMANE. stone wall. In it stands eight olive-trees of immense size and very great antiquity. Our travellers climbed over the wall, and seated themselves under the friendly shade — they had reached one of the most deeply interesting spots on the face of the earth. It was the Garden of Gethsemane. Here, Scripture and tradition happily accord, and our friends could give way to all the feelings such a place was calculated to produce. They felt at that moment that they were amply repaid for all the fatigue, anxiety, and risk of their long pilgrimage. It was, indeed, no common privilege to be seated in that garden where our Saviour, when on earth, ofttimes resorted with his disciples. Here He came to pray, in an agony, that the cup of his Father's wrath might if possible pass from him; here He sweat great drops of blood, in the extremity of his suffering; and here the traitor Judas found his Lord and Master, and betrayed him to his cruel and bloodthirsty enemies.* The family paid many visits to Gethsemane. Their evening walk was generally directed to it; and they would linger till the declining rays of the setting sun would warn them that the gates of the city were about to be closed. Not only is there every reason to believe that this is the Garden of Gethsemane, but it is more than probable that the very trees which stood there nineteen centuries ago, are those which still flourish on the sacred ground. Large as are the trunks, they have been preceded by much larger from the * Matthew, xxvi. 36 — 56 ; Luke, xxii. 39 — 47 ; John, xviii. 1—8. GARDEN OF GETHSEMANE. 311 same roots, as may be clearly seen. The olive is one of the most long-lived of trees, and has this pecu- liarity, that if cut down even with the ground the roots send out fresh shoots, which in the course of time unite, and again form one large trunk. All the olives in the garden have been thus reproduced. There are remarkable trees, in various parts of the world, which are known to have flourished for ten, fifteen, and even twenty centuries, and it is doubtful whether the roots of the olive would ever perish, except by accident or violence : taking all these facts into consideration, we think there is nothing extravagant in our supposition. A long but narrow portion of the back part of the garden is walled off, and pointed out as being the spot where Judas be- trayed his master, but otherwise the place has not been defiled by monkish tradition. There is no tawdry chapel, no grotto, none of the inventions of man, and the pious traveller may indulge in all the feelings which naturally arise, without having them annoyed and disturbed by claims on his credulity, from which his reason and common sense revolt. Charles and Emily had been requested by many of their friends in England, not to fail to bring them a small sprig of olive from the Garden of Geth- semane, and they now asked permission to gather some. Charles quickly climbed up into the largest tree, and plucked several, which were afterwards carefully dried. The family were about to leave, when Mr. Founder came up : he also gathered some of the young twigs ; but not content with this, ex- pressed a wish to have a piece of the wood. Mr. Dalton would not sanction such a proposition: he 312 TOJIB OF THE VIRGIN. observed, that if every visitor carried away a portion, the trees would soon be greatly injured; but Mr. Founder was determined to indulge his whim. While the family was engaged in reading, he got the drago- man to accompany him to a peasant, working at a distance; a bargain was made, and the man, two days after, brought Daireh two feet of a thick limb of the tree. He cut it in half; and offered one piece to his master : he was reproved for what had been done ; but the young folks pleaded so earnestly, that it was accepted. Several hours had elapsed, and it was time to return home. The party entered the city by St. Stephen's gate. In their way to it, they passed by a very singular subterraneous church; the entrance to which is by a descent of fifty or sixty marble steps. It is an extensive cave, handsomely fitted up, and there is a chapel at the further end, covering the supposed tomb of the Virgin Mary. Near the church is a large bare rock, nearly level with the road, on which it is said Stephen, the first martyr, was stoned. The entrance into the city lies up a steep bit of hill, after the Valley of Jehoshaphat has been crossed by a short bridge. The travellers noticed a luxuriant fig-tree, growing wild on the side of the valley, the top branches of which were close to the parapet. " There was on it nothing but leaves, for the time of figs was not yet."* It was at the same season of the year, and, judging by the context, very near the same place that our Saviour saw the tree which he caused to wither away. • Mark xi. 13. MOSQUE OF OMAR. 31 ^ Having passed the gate, which, like all the others round Jerusalem, has no road for wheel carriages, Captain Huntly took his friends a short distance to the right, and with a little effort they all mounted on the walls. From the elevation they had a fine view of the Valley of Jehoshaphat, the Mount of Olives, and many other most interesting spots. In the opposite direction a large portion of the city lay before them; the great dome of the church of the Holy Sepulchre rising conspicuously above the other buildings. From this point, also, the Mosque of Omar and the site of the Temple were best seen. The mosque is one of the finest in the East ; it is very large, and stands in the centre of a noble court paved with marble. There are several gates around the court, which always stand open, and the meanest Mussulman may boldly enter, perform his ablutions at one of the splendid fountains, and say his prayers under the roof of the magnificent mosque; but so jealous are people of the intrusion of an unbeliever, that if a Frank even stands at a little distance to look through the gates of the court, he is very likely to be in- sulted. Mr. Founder told the Daltons that he had, a day or two ago, walked into the court, and had proceeded a few steps towards the mosque, when several Turks ran towards him, and he was pushed out without ceremony. If he had ventured there a dozen years ago, he would hardly have escaped with life. The way to the hotel was through a long street called the " Via Dolorosa." Along it, tradi- tion reports, our Saviour was led to Pilate's house, and the monks pretend that part of the governor's 314 GREEK CEREMONIES. mansion still remains. It is now used as a barrack for soldiers. Here, as in numerous olher cases, is an instance of their preference to tradition over the clear prediction of Scripture, and even the records of pro- fane history, which so strikingly detail the utter de- molition of Jerusalem. The next day was the Good Friday of the Greek church, which is sometimes a fortnight or even three weeks later than that of the Latin. When the greater part of Europe made an alteration in the date of the month, in 1752, by reckoning Sept. 2, as Sept. 14, and thereby rectifying an error, produced by previous miscalculations of the length of the solar year, which in the course of time had made that dif- ference, the Eastern churches refused to sanction the change. In Russia, the head-quarters of the Greek church, the old style is still adhered to, and the Copts, Abyssinians, Armenians, &c., keep their Easter fes- tival at the same time. The church was brilliantly lit up, and crowded with worshippers. While the Greeks reject all images with abhorrence, they substitute pictures. The more intelligent contend they are only to be re- garded as helps to devotion, but the lower orders worship them with as much reverence as any Catholic can show to his graven image. The ceremonies of the Greek are more tedious and unmeaning than those of the Romish church, and the Daltons were soon tired of the infinite number of crossings, genu- flexions, and processions, which formed the major part of the service. It was difficult to conjecture what was meant by these formalities, and they did not remain any length of time. PLACE OF WAILING. 315 After an early dinner, our travellers set out to witness an affecting scene much better worth their notice. They passed through several narrow streets, roughly paved, dirty and desolate, and having hurried by the slaughtering-place of the city, which was dis- gusting alike to eye and nose, from being in a most filthy state, they reached a small valley covered with rubbish and ruined buildings. It lies between Mount Moriah and Mount Zion. Then, turning down a narrow lane which bounds the Jews' quarter, they suddenly found themselves in the presence of about forty or fifty Israelites, principally old men and women, who, seated on the ground in an inclosed space, were occupied in reading. Two or three yards before them rose the lofty west wall of the platform of the Temple, containing at the base some of the large bevelled stones like those which had attracted their attention on the opposite side. The poor Jews, who have to buy permission of the Turkish author- ities, come every Friday afternoon to meditate on the former glories of the city of David, and wail over its present low estate. They recite some of the Peni- tential Psalms, and pray for the restoration of Jeru- salem : they were evidently disturbed by the arrival of strangers, but it did not prevent them from going on with their devotions, which were occasionally in- terrupted by their rising to lay their foreheads against the stones, and even to kiss them. From feelings of delicacy, the family did not linger long, but proceeded to another part of the wall, where the springing or commencement of an arch has been lately discovered. It is probably all that remains of an ancient bridge connecting Mount 316 THE copt's proposal. Moriah with the Hill of Zion, by crossing over the valley already mentioned. In the evening, they bent their steps once more to the Garden of Gethsemane, visiting, as they went, a church in the Via Dolorosa, built over the pillar to which our Saviour was bound to be scourged. This relic stands near Pilate's house, and the fortunate Empress Helena had the honour of protecting it from injury, by the erection of a church on the present site. Bishai had led Mrs. Dalton's horse, and when the family reached the garden, and sat down under the olive trees, he got Daireh to a distance, and pro- posed that, as by this time he must know where his master had discovered treasure, they should seize the present opportunity to go and help themselves. The poor fellow had noticed that his master had paid particular attention to the four tombs in the Valley of Jehoshaphat, and therefore suspected that it was hidden among them, and he seemed to think that there was enough concealed there to enrich him as well as his master. He, in common with his countrymen, as we have before mentioned, could not imagine that Mr. Dalton had any other object in travelling than to seek for hidden treasure, and he thought some of the trunks he had with him were to hold the gold and silver. Daireh was often re- quested by the people he met to beg for backsheesh of the travellers ; and when he inquired why he should do so, the reply was, " What harm can it do you ? We don't ask for your money; and the Franks know where to dig for more than they can ever spend." The next morning, rising very early, the family BETHANY. 317 went to Bethany before breakfast. They crossed the lower part of the Mount of Olives, and at about three miles from St. Stephen's gate, arrived at the village. There is no doubt that it is really the an- cient Bethany; and the road they traversed must have been repeatedly trodden by our Saviour in his visits to Jerusalem. After doing his Father's work in the crowded city, we can imagine him, wearied and dispirited vnth. the \aolent opposition of some, and the cold unbelief of others, retiring to this quiet and secluded retreat, to seek for refreshment and solace in the society of Mary, Martha, and his beloved Lazarus. The tomb of Lazarus is entered by a narrow portal, and a steep and much-worn flight of steps, into a chamber excavated in the rock. On one side is an opening into a smaller recess, and here it is said that the body was laid. It is evidently a very ancient tomb; but, from the care and expense re- quired for its construction, it probably belonged to a richer and much more important person than Lazarus is likely to have been. Our young readers will re-' member that his sister Martha was " cumbered" with the preparation of a meal wherewith to entertain her Lord and Master; we may, perhaps, therefore pre- sume that she was too poor to have a servant to do the work of the house. After leaving the village of Bethany, they ascended the Mount of Olives, to the church on the summit. It was not open, but they were able to gain the roof of an adjoining tower. Here they had a beautiful bird's-eye view of the whole city and the Valley of Jehoshaphat, while a large portion of the hill country 318 THE HOLY FIRE. of Judea was seen to their right. Behind them, the plains of Jericho, the valley of the Jordan, and a portion of the Dead Sea, were distinctly visible. The Mosque of Omar appeared to great advantage, standing as it does in the large and beautiful court of the Temple. It is of immense size, octagonal in form, with a corridor supported by pillars around it. The sides are elaborately ornamented in the Moorish style; the dome is covered with copper, and sur- mounted by the crescent. Wlien the Crusaders held Jerusalem, it was converted into a Christian temple, and the crescent replaced by a cross. How long will it be before the cross is again reared on the summit 1 One of the gates in the boundary wall, facing the Valley of Jehoshaphat, is blocked up by masonry, and guarded inside, it is said, by a sentinel. It is called the Golden Gate, and through it the Mahomedans believe the Christians will one day enter and take possession of the city. After breakfast, the family proceeded to the church of the Holy Sepulchre, to witness the annual per- formance of one of the most impudent " pious frauds" of the present time. The Greek priests pre- tend that a sacred fire on this day proceeds from the sepulchre, and all the pilgrims attend to light their tapers by it : they are then extinguished, and care- fully preserved, to be laid by the side of the garment dipped in the Jordan, when they are buried. It was with some difficulty our travellers made their way through the dense mass of pilgrims to the sacristy of the Latin church, where they waited till the ladies were conducted to the organ-loft, which commands a good view of the church, while Charles and his father VIOLENT EXCITEMENT. 319 mounted to the gallery under the dome. They owed their excellent situation ^to the kindness of a friend, who introduced them to one of the monks. The Latins hold the pretended miracle in great contempt; and the good father, who spoke Italian fluently, was liberal in his abuse of the Greeks, and in his sneers at the credulity of the people. He appeared, how- ever, to be strangely forgetful how much his own communion had to answer for. The gallery into which Mr. Dalton was admitted is divided into ar- cades, one of which was reserved for the Turkish governor. He was impatiently expected by the cre- dulous multitude, for till he arrives, the miracle is not allowed to take place ! It was a remarkable scene. The large area of the church was densely crowded; but around the sepulchre a space about four feet wide was kept clear, by a double line of Turkish soldiers. At short intervals of time, a number of infatuated and highly excited men and boys entered it, and rushed round and round with desperate energy, screaming and hallooing like so many maniacs. Some stood upright on a friend's shoulders, who ran with the rest till an unlucky stumble threw both to the ground. One old man was particularly conspicuous; he generally headed the others, and seemed to be fitter for a strait waistcoat, than to be the leader of a reli- gious procession. He danced, shouted, and threw himself into all sorts of postures. At last he mounted on another frantic devotee, and urged him to his utmost speed: they continued their mad course till he was thrown down violently against two of the soldiers; who seized him by the hair of his head, and hauled 320 A MOCK MIRACLE. him out of the church. In a few minutes, however, he returned, and was more outrageous than before. Thus, for two hours, the church was a scene of noise, confusion, and frantic excitement. At two o'clock, the governor arrived, and quietly took his seat. The racing pilgrims were driven off the course, and shortly after, a procession of priests, headed by the Patriarch, and followed by a motley group of ragged fellows bearing shabby banners, walked slowly round three times, chanting some prayers. The Patriarch was a grey-headed old man, with a cunning expression of countenance; his very look seemed to say, " I am about to act a lie — what fools you are to believe it ! " There is a circular hole in the side of the little chapel built over the sepulchre; close to it a man was posted, protected by the soldiers. He was a rich pilgrim, probably an Armenian, who had paid handsomely for the privilege of being the first to light his tapers by the holy fire. The old Patriarch, having divested himself of most of his fine trappings, entered alone into the sanctuary. In a minute after, he pushed through the hole a quantity of flaming cotton dipped in spirits of wine : the favoured pilgrim eagerly lighted a bunch of tapers by it, and, escorted by the soldiers, hurried out of the church. The excitement was now at its height ; and a scene fol- lowed which baffles description. There was a tre- mendous rush towards the flame, still held out by the Patriarch, and each strove who should light his taper the earliest. Those who could not get up to head- quarters were obliged to procure a light from the more fortunate, and in three minutes the whole CREDULITY OF THE PILGRIMS. 321 church and the adjoining chapels were in a blaze. Thousands of wax candles and flambeaux were glit- tering over the space ; while some held forty or fifty long thin tapers bound together, which were intended as valuable presents for friends at home. It was, for the time, like Bedlam let loose : some were kneel- ing in ecstatic adoration, others screaming, dancing, and jumping; the more zealous put the flame into their mouths, or applied it to their faces and naked breasts. It is asserted that the holy fire does not burn or hurt any one, but it was evident that few kept it long enough near their skin to give it a fair trial. In ten minutes, every taper was extinguished, and the pilgrims dispersed, carrying away the precious relics. The Greek consul, dressed in a splendid Arnaout costume, consisting of a short jacket covered with gold embroidery, and a nether garment something like a Scotchman's kilt, but of fine white linen, and gathered into a profusion of folds, had made himself very busy among his countrymen during the morn- ing. He was in the midst of the crowd when the lighting began, and was quickly surrounded by hun- dreds of blazing candles. Many of the people kneeled down ; and before long, the poor man woke up to the fact that his fine white redundant petticoat was in no small danger. It was clear that he had no great faith in the miraculous non-burning quality of the flame, and Emily was much amused to see him make his escape as quickly as possible, glancing anxiously around to assure himself that all was safe behind. No accident happened on the present occa- sion ; but a few years ago, the pressure and confu- sion in the crowd was so great, that not less than T 322 TOMBS OF THE KINGS. three hundred people were trampled to death. The Armenian bishop who had assisted at the ceremony was so shocked by this terrible catastrophe, that the very next day he preached a sermon, in which he begged the people no longer to require the perform- ance of the miracle. Sunday was quietly passed, and the two following days spent in revisiting some of the more interesting parts of Jerusalem and its environs, and in active preparations for the journey through Syria. A short excursion was made to the Grotto of Jeremiah and the Tombs of the Kings, which are not far from the Damascus Gate. The latter are excavated out of the rock, and contain many chambers. The entrance is beautifully ornamented, and much care and cost has been bestowed on the interior. That any of the Kings of Judah were deposited there, is mere matter of conjecture. We have dwelt rather long on Jerusalem, but much that our travellers saw, we leave undescribed. Both Mr. and Mrs. Dalton were surprised and grieved that their minds were not more deeply affected during their too short stay in the holy city; but it is pro- bable that most persons have this feeling. There is so much that is mean, fraudulent, and false, mixed up with what is undoubtedly true, that the mind gets distracted, and it is difficult to realize the fact that we are indeed walking over the same ground our blessed Saviour so often trod, and residing in that city where he so often proclaimed the gospel, worked so many miracles, and where he offered himself a sacrifice for the sins of the whole world. It is not in the hurry and bustle of a noisy crowd that we can REMINISCENCES. 323 think correctly or feel deeply, and hence the duty and necessity of the Christian seeking for quiet hours of meditation. When they had left Jerusalem far be- hind, they wondered how they could have been so cold and indifferent. Their visit, however, has not been without valuable results. They can bring a picture of no common interest before the mind's eye, with a reality, vividness, and accuracy, which no de- scription can produce : and they feel that to be able in imagination again to sit down under an aged olive in the Garden at Gethsemane; or enjoy a quiet walk to Bethany ; or wander across the plains of Jericho, or by the banks of the Jordan ; or gaze at Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives, or stand on the shores of the desolate and fearful sea which covers the cities of the plain ; or refresh themselves with a draught of water from the cool and refreshing Fountain of Siloam, or the sparkling, beautiful Pool of Elisha, is no common privilege, and an ample reward for all their anxiety and fatigue. Mr. Dalton heard from all quarters that the journey through Syria would be rather dangerous. The country was in an unsettled state, and two parties of English had very recently been attacked by Bedouins. While he thought it right to take all needful precau- tion, he remembered that almost every traveller had been annoyed by similar reports, and in most cases they were greatly exaggerated. There were several Europeans in Jerusalem who, after the Easter festival, intended to journey in the same direction, and who readily agreed to travel in company. It was not dif- ficult, therefore, to arrange for their starting at the same time. The necessity for applying to the governor y2 324 THE LATIN CONVENT. for a guard of soldiers was avoided, and a formidable party was made uj). It consisted of eight gentlemen, and five ladies, attended by twelve servants, and nearly twenty muleteers. More than fifty horses and mules were also emj^loyed. The pilgrims were fast leaving Jerusalem, and there was some difficulty in procuring a sufficient number of horses and mules, but at last Mr. Dalton managed to hire those he required. As Syria abounds in wells, the water-casks were of no further use, and they with the musetta, the quilts, the cushions, and some other things, were sold at an " alarming sacri- fice." On Tuesday afternoon, the family took a last walk round Jerusalem, and entering by the Bethlehem Gate, passed by the Tower of Hippicus, an ancient fortress erected by the Saracens upon a much older foundation. Near it stands the modest residence of the late Bishop Alexander. In the evening, Mr. Dalton called at the Latin Convent, to inquire after the health of Captain Huntly, wdio had promised to join their party, but who had been con- fined by an attack of fever. He was rejoiced to find him materially better. The convent is crowded during Easter by pilgrims and travellers ; the former are fed at the expense of the monks, but they receive a small gratuity from the latter. A few years ago, and it had peculiar advantage as a place of safety ; but as Franks have at present nothing to fear from the bigotry or violence of the Mussulmans within the city, Mr. Dalton was pleased that he had not lodged his family in the dreary unfurnished cells allotted to strangers by the monks. The Copt pilgrim was still retained in the tra- THE JOURNEY RESUMED. 325 vellers' service, more as an act of charity than for any use that he could be. Before he left Jerusalem, he submitted to a very painful operation, by allow- ing his right arm to be nearly covered with innume- rable punctures made by a little instrument with several j^oints. It ^vas dipped frequently in some vegetable extract, and left indelible marks in the skin. Several crosses, the date of the year, and the name of the holy city, formed part of the device. Bishai said that his countrymen would not account him a hadjee, unless his jDilgrimage was thus duly attested. The man employed went as coolly to work as if he had been stamping a piece of clay, and although Bishai winced a little at each blow, he bore the tor- ture like a martyr. The horses and mules crowded the narrow lane leading to the hotel at an early hour. The usual wrangling and delay accompanying a first start took place, and it was not till after nine that all was ready. Just as Mr. Dalton was about to mount, the Sheikh of the muleteers required half the sum agreed on in advance. It is a customary demand, and no objection was made to giving him the money j but on his producing a purse of ghazees,* a man stepped forward, on the part of the Sheikh, to weigh them. To show how little value is placed on time in the East, it may be mentioned that twenty minutes w^ere consumed in the process. Threading the narrow streets of Jerusalem for the last time, our friends found themselves at the * Ghazee, a small gold coin, worth uiueteeu Egyptian or twenty-one Syrian jjiastres. 326 THE JOURNEY RESUMED. Damascus Gate. Captain Huntly and his compa- nion, a young Belgian, had been waiting there for some time, but no other of the party had arrived except a gentleman named Duncan, resident at Beyrout, who had lodged in the same house as the family, and who, from his knowledge of Arabic and the country, had been of much assistance in settling the route, and making a bargain with the muleteers. After hesitating a moment, it was decided to pro- ceed without delay, and to wait for the rest of the travellers at the mid-day halting place. The road was merely a horse-path, very rough and stony. In a mile or two, the cultivated land which lies on this side of the city was passed, and a wild, dreary, rocky country entered. It is occupied by a scanty Bedouin population, and looks as desolate and unreclaimable as the actual Desert. It is marvellous that it ever could have been a fertile district, but it is supposed that, in the prosperous ages of Judea, the great natural disadvantages of the soil were overcome by the industry of the people. LAST VIEW OF JERUSALEM. 327 CHAPTER XV. LAST VIEW OF JERUSALEM AN ACCIDENT THE RUNAWAY RECOVERED — RAMAH WANT OF A LEADER JACOB's WELL TOMB OF JOSEPH SHECHEM SAMARITANS COMPANY OF LEPERS DISPUTE WITH THE MULETEERS CHURCH OF ST. JOHN BAPTIST HEROD's PALACE FULFILMENT OF PROPHECY EASTERN NEGLIGENCE A SWISS BOTANIST THE governor's GUARD JEZREEL MOUNT TABOR SKETCH OF A TRAVELLER ASSAULT ON SUEZ AN ARMY OF FLEAS THE LOITERER ROBBED. In about an hour after leaving Jerusalem, our tra- vellers reached the summit of a rather high hill, and here Daireh told them they must take their last look at the Holy City. They turned their horses' heads, and gazed long and earnestly — it looked beautiful in the distance. How many millions, during the last twenty-eight centuries, must have here stood with mingled feelings of awe and admiration ! There was a time when the Temple in all its glory must have been the prominent feature in the view. Thither, did the tribes of Israel repair to worship, and from the very spot where our travellers were standing, the youthful Jesus must have first seen his Father's house, and gazed on the city which was destined to 328 LAST VIEW OF JERUSALEM. be the scene of his laborious ministry, and his ago- nizing and ignominious death. The road they were traversing, there can be no doubt, is the same as then led to Nazareth. Jerusalem must always have been a strange and peculiar city." It owes none of its greatness and celebrity to the causes which have contributed to the grandeur of most other important towns. Its situation affords no facilities for commerce, and the neighbouring country can never have produced food enough for its densely crowded population. The nearest sea-port, Joppa (Jaffa), is separated from it by difficult mountain passes, and it is doubtful whether it could ever be approached in any direction by wheel- carriages; yet there was a time when it abounded in wealth, and was the joy of the whole earth. As the residence of the Kings of Judah, it shared in the advantages that a metropolis always possesses, but it owed almost all its glory and pros- perity to its having been the place where the Temple stood, and where all that was sacred and interesting to God's own people was to be found. It was the city of Da\dd, the city enriched and beautified by Solomon, the place where the ark was dej^osited, where the visible presence of Jehovah dwelt, where all Israel were bound to present themselves twice a year — that city which the Jews so justly regarded as "the perfection of beauty and the joy of the whole * The author is not willing to omit the opportunity of strongly recommending " Bartlett's Walks about Jerusalem " to his readers. He made it his hand-book while staying there, and gathered from it a clearer and more exact idea of the dif- ferent localities, than from any other work. It contains several faithful views, extremely well executed. AN ACCIDENT. 329 earth." While its position preveuted its profiting largely by the ordinary source of a nation's wealth — extensive traffic — it must have reaped great advan- tages from the immense influx of strangers during the great feasts. We can imagine with what deep interest the ancient Jew would regard it. From his earliest years, he would hear his parents dilate on its glories, and then the happy and longed-for time would come, when he was old enough to accompany them, and feast his delighted eyes and ardent curiosity with the sight of all its magnificence. Well might the weeping captives by the waters of Babylon say, " If I forget thee, O Jerusalem, let my right hand forget her cunning."* The road, in descending, became still more diffi- cult, and before the travellers reached the bottom of the hill an accident happened, which caused some alarm and inconvenience. The Bagdad horse had become growingly restive, and Mrs. Dalton prefer- ring a quieter animal, it was ridden by her husband. Just as it reached the brink of a large excavation, it was bitten by some fly of more than ordinary viciousness; the poor creature gave a start and shudder, and, goaded by the pain, became quite un- manageable. Its rider dismounted, and Bishai run- ning to his assistance, they tried to hold him in; but he broke away, and gallojiing at full speed among the wild hills, was soon out of sight. Mustapha and Daireh hastened after him, and Capt. Huntly and Mr. Duncan kindly joined in the chase. All re- turned, except Daireh, after an hour's unsuccessful * Psalm cxxxvii. 330 THE RUNAWAY RECOVERED. search, and it was not till nearly twice the time had elapsed, that the dragoman made his appearance, leading the runaAvay, and followed by a Bedouin. After galloping for some miles, it had been caught by some of the tribe, who attempted to hide it in a cave. Fortunately a peasant, at work near at hand, gave Daireh such certain information that he was able boldly to assert that they had the horse, and must produce it. The Bedouins, after some hesita- tion, did so, and at the same time claimed a reward. Daireh's present did not content them, and one of the rogues now presented himself to extract a little more from the "khowaga." Although the horse was thus recovered, his flight had caused several disasters. Two of his shoes were torn off and gone, and, worse than all, one of his knees was deeply cut. The state of the animal was very unfortunate; it did not appear probable that the shoes could be replaced for two or three days. Farriers are scarce in Syria. The wound on his knee was still more serious ; it was bleeding pro- fusely, but nothing could be done beyond covering it with a pocket-handkerchief, to keep the flies away. Mustapha had fallen, and although not hurt, Mr. Dalton's dressing-case, which was in his saddle-bag, was smashed in pieces ; while Daireh lost his large Arab cloak. It was, however, a great consolation to the whole party that his rider had escaped unhurt. A gallop among the rocky ground of the hill country of Judea on an unmanageable horse would have been accompanied by no small peril of limb and life. The other travellers had come up in the meantime, RAMAH. 331 and they now proceeded in a body. On the left of the road, a town placed conspicuously on a hill, and called Neby-Samwil, was pointed out, as being the ancient Ramah, where Samuel was born and buried.* Mukhmas (Micmash) and Geba (the ancient Gibeon) lay somewhat to the right. The latter was, when Joshua took possession of Canaan, " a great city, as one of the royal cities." Our young readers will re- member the deception practised by its inhabitants, to escape the fate of their neighbours, and also that the sun stood still over it by the command of the conquering leader of the Israelites. t It is now only an insigni- ficant village. After resting a short time at Beri (Berooth),:}: the journey was continued. The road did not improve, and the heat was very great : when, therefore, the travellers reached a village called Singel, they gladly halted : but just as the horses were about to be unladen, it was discovered that no water could be had, and although it was half-past six, and nearly dark, the weary company were obliged to proceed. They were now completely among the hills, but in less than an hour the descent into a deep valley, to a well called Leben, was commenced. It was dangerously steep; every one was obliged to dis- mount, and some of the horses fell. The unloading the baggage, picketing the animals, and raising the tents in the dark was no easy matter, and produced much noise and confusion. The Daltons rejoiced when quiet was restored, and they were able, after a hasty meal, to forget the fatigues and trials of the day in welcome sleep. * 1 Samuel, i. 1, and xxv. 1. + Josbua, x. 2, 12. J Judges, ix. 21. 332 WANT OF A LEADEK. Every one was roused very early the next morning; and now the inconveniences attending the movements of a large party, without a regular leader, began to develop themselves. One energetic gentleman had been stirring betimes, hurried through his breakfast, struck his tent, and quickened his people in loading, so that he was prepared to start; another, disposed to take things more easily, was but half dressed, and quietly inquiring when breakfast would be ready. Some were descanting upon the evils of travelling late in the day; while others felt that it was equally unpleasant to be disturbed too early in the morning. Mr. Dalton took a middle course, being anxious that his wife should have all the rest possible, and at the same time taking care not to be the last ready. At length all were prepared to start, and peace restored by the loiterers promising better things for to- morrow. In three hours, the cavalcade reached a beautiful plain, which there can be little doubt is that referred to in Joshua, as the valley in which the people of Israel waited for the attack of the men of Ai.* The road lay on the left, by the base of Mount Gerizim, but before reaching another valley, nearly at a right angle, and leading to Nablous, the travellers began to cross the plain in an opposite direction, to visit Jacob's Well, which is situated at some distance to the right. Although Daireh had been there three times before, there was some difficulty in finding it. At last, it was pointed out by a peasant labouring in the fields. * Joshua, viii. 13, 14, &c. Jacob's well. 333 It is situated near some ruined buildings, and the masonry which covers it does not rise much above the surface of the ground. To the great disappoint- m.ent of the whole party, the small entrance was blocked up by a ponderous stone, jammed in so tightly that it seemed impossible to move it. Daireh re- membered that the year before, the gentlemen he accompanied had found it in the same state, and were not able to disturb it. After several vigorous but useless efforts to lift it up, Mr. Duncan suggested that perhaps it could be forced inwards; and no time was lost in bringing some masses of stone from the ruins, which were repeatedly dashed down upon it. In a few minutes it was so bruised and shaken, that it gave way. On looking in, the hole did not appear to be of a greater depth than seven or eight feet ; and, after a little hesitation, Mr. Duncan forced his body through the aperture, and, assisted by those above, was lowered to the bottom. Mr. Dalton fol- lowed immediately. They found themselves in an arched chamber, six feet wide, and perhaps twice as long, half choked up with rubbish. In the left hand corner was the well, which appeared to be of great depth, but without water. Unfortunately they had no light mth them, and could only judge by throw- ing down pieces of stone, which seemed to fall on dry ground. A lady of the party, as well as Emily, then descended. To do so with safety requires great caution, as a considerable pile of rubbish, just under the entrance, slopes down to the mouth of the well, and a slip or false step would have precipitated them to the bottom. The rest of the party, either more careful, or less curious, did not venture into the vault. 334 Jacob's well. There are few spots in Palestine more interesting than that on which our travellers were now standing. It may be assumed, almost with certainty, that this was really the well on whose brink our Saviour once sat. It is called by the people of the neighbourhood, Beer-Yacoob, or the Well of Jacob; it lies in the road to Sychar, and is the only well of great depth in the valley. Probably in our Lord's time, it was, like other Syrian wells, surrounded by masonry, which rose slightly above the surface of the plain. The chamber over it may have been erected by the Arabs, who hold the memory of Jacob in great veneration. It has every appearance of being an addition to the original structure. Mrs. Dalton seated herself under the shadow of a ruined wall, and while she reposed for a few minutes, recalled to her children's memory some of the many remarkable events which had taken place in the part of Palestine they were now traversing. They had read together that morning the passage in the Gospel of St. John,* where our Lord's interview with the woman of Samaria is so beautifully and naturally told. Here, then, our Saviour, wearied with his toil- some journey, had sat down to rest. Through that narrow valley the disciples had gone to the city of Sychar to buy bread, and the woman carrying her earthen jar on her head, as is still the custom in the East, had just arrived from the same place. Close at hand rose Mount Gerizim, and the temple raised by the Samaritans on its summit must have been dis- tinctly visible. It is now replaced by the tomb of a * St. John, iv. TOMB OF JOSEPH. 335 Mahomedan santon. There were many fertile fields around, which, as then, were nearly " white for the harvest." Everything served to impress our travellers with a deep sense of the truth and reality of the gos- pel narrative. At no great distance is a plain low building, erected over the spot, where, according to tradition, the bones of the patriarch Joseph were laid. His remains, embalmed according to the Egyptian custom, were carried away by the departing Israelites, in obedience to his express injunction,* had accompanied them in all their wanderings, and were at last de- posited in that parcel of ground which Jacob had bought, four centuries before, of the sons of Hamor.t It is still often visited by the Jews and Samaritans of Nablous (Sychar), and there are many Hebrew in- scriptions on the walls. Opposite to Mount Gerizim, rose Mount Ebal. The host of Israel, after having conquered and taken possession of this part of the promised land, had planted themselves on the two heights. Here the assembly of the whole people, as Moses had com- manded,J listened in fearful reverence to the " words of the law, the blessings and the cursings, accordino- to all that is written in the book of the law."§ Lea\dng Jacob's Well with reluctance, the Daltons followed their fellow travellers through the narrow and fruitful valley in which stands the modern Na- blous. It occupies the site of the very ancient city of Sychar or Shechem. Close to the road runs a beau- * Genesis, i. 24, 25, 26 ; Exodus, xiii. 19 ; Hebrews, xi. 22. + Genesis, xxxiii. 1!). J Deuteronomy, xxvii. § Joshua, viii. 80, &c. 336 SHECHEM. tiful little stream, and the whole valley is so well watered as to be very productive. Among so many springs, it may be asked, how can that now called Jacob's Well be known to be really his. It will be remembered that the woman told our Saviour that it was deep. All the other water in the neighbourhood rises to the surface, and flows away in little rivulets. There is also every reason to believe that, notwith- standing the almost total dispersion and disappearance of the Ten Tribes, a small remnant has been left to the present day in Shechem; it is natural to suppose that they would preserve the remembrance of their forefathers' possession, and they agree in calling the well in question by the great patriarch's name. Our friends regretted much that, travelling as they now were in a large company, they could not spend some hours in the town. In it is still left a small body of Samaritans, who have a synagogue, and pride themselves on their descent. They maintain the ancient hatred of their ancestors to the Jews, while they are little better affected to either Mussulmans or Christians. They say that when the second temple was built, the Samaritans were not allowed to take part in the cost and labour, and consequently erected one for themselves on the summit of Mount Gerizim. To this building the woman probably referred, in her conversation with our Lord.* Three times a-year they still ascend the mountain, to worship. They look for the coming of the Messiah, and expect, more- over, that he will be born of a virgin. They possess a copy of the Pentateuch, of extreme antiquity, which * John, iv. 20. SAMARITANS. 337 they hold in great veneration, and show to strangers with rehictance. A singular notion prevails among them, that in England, America, and other parts of the globe, some of their brethren may be found, but who carefully conceal their origin. Mr. Dalton and his family, as well as Captain Huntly, rode through the town; they were behind the rest of the party, who had continued their course along the valley, without entering it. It was mean and miserable, and the pavement so bad, that they had some difficulty in making their way, especially as, from some gross neglect in draining off the water, the centre of the principal street was a foot deep in mud. There was, as in Jerusalem and other Syrian towns, a foot-path on each side, but the stones were so polished by the constant wear of the naked feet of the inhabitants, that it was not safe to trust the horses on its slippery surface. On leaving Nablous, they found the rest of the company waiting for them in an open space just without the gate. Several of the horses wanted shoe- ing, and Mr. Dalton rejoiced that he now had the opportunity of getting his attended to. Poor fellow! his mad gallop among the hills, his sad wound, and liis journey without shoes over a stony road for three days, had reduced him to a very sober state. He paced gravely and quietly along, with downcast head and halting step, ruminating over his painful knee and tender feet. As Charles observed, in schoolboy phrase, "the shine was completely taken out of him.'* " It is, indeed," said his father, " and, like many a foolish youth, he now knows, by bitter experience, z 338 COMPANY OF LEPERS. and when it is too late, that it is a dangerous thing to break away from lawful restraint." The poor crea- ture had given the travellers so much concern, by his evident suffering, that they more than once wished that Daireh had not rescued him from the Arabs. There was now some difference of opinion as to whether any further progress should be made to-day, and votes were pretty equally divided; but the question was settled by Daireh's learning from one of the inhabitants, that to encamp where they were was dangerous. The country was in an unsettled state, and the people of Nablous are notorious robbers. While the travellers were debating, they were sur- rounded by about a dozen deplorable looking crea- tures, most of them deformed, many having also lost the use of some of their limbs, and their faces and hands red, bloated, and disgusting; they were miser- able lepers, outcasts of society, and depending on precarious charity for support. This horrible disease exists still in many parts of Syria, but it is generally thought that now it is not so fearful in its effects as in early times. "SVliile Mr. Dalton distributed a few small coins among the wretched company, the young folks were reminded by their mamma, that it was as Jesus "passed through the midst of Samaria and Galilee" that the ten lepers had met him, cried for mercy, and were healed, while the only one that re- turned to give thanks was a Samaritan.* When it was decided that the party should proceed, the muleteers refused to go on ; they had settled among themselves that this should be the resting- * Luke, xvii. 11 — 19. DISPUTE WITH THE MULETEERS. 339 place, and some of them began to unload. One or two of the gentlemen, fresh from Egj^Dt, began try- ing the same discipline on the refractory men as they had deemed necessary on the Nile. The Syrian is not made of such manageable stuff as the poor de- pressed Eg-j^3tian, and they soon showed that they would not stand quietly to be beaten. It would not do, however, to give way to them, and before long, pistols were produced; the sight of these weapons ended the dispute. The road along the valley of Shechem was very agreeable; there were numerous gardens filled with luxuriant vegetables and fruit trees. In three hours the travellers reached a height which commanded a large expanse of country; in the distance, and stand- ing conspicuously on a detached hill, was Sebast^, the ancient capital of Samaria. The latter part of the way had been picturesque, but rough; it was, with- out doubt, the ancient road, for in some places there were walls of rock on either side, the traffic of ages having gradually worn away the solid stone into a deep narrow channel. A further ride of rather more than half an hour brought the travellers to an encamping ground near the old city. A copious fountain had been left a mile behind, near which they now discovered that they ought to have stopped. Many of the women from the city, carrying pitchers on their heads, were passing and repassing; their walk and appearance were very graceful, and even the vessel they carried, a tall kind of vase, was not inelegant. These poor creatures are forced to walk a distance of nearly a z 2 340 CHURCH OF ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST. mile and a half from the town to fetch all the water they require. We cannot wonder that they are sparing of their ablutions. When Mrs. Dalton had somewhat recovered from the fatigues of the day, the family ascended the hill which leads up to the town, but finding very little to interest them in the squalid huts and filthy court- yards of which it is composed, they did not proceed to any great distance. The most conspicuous object is the remains of a handsome church, which is said to have been built over the burial-place of John the Baptist, and was dedicated to him. It has been as- cribed to the Empress Helena, but is evidently of a more recent date; they tried to get admittance into the interior, but without success, and then returned to the camp. The few inhabitants they met with had a peculiarly wild and desperate look, and the numer- ous dogs were as savage and troublesome as those of Egypt. Mr. Dalton learned from some of his fellow-travel- lers, that beyond the town there were many ancient marble columns, all that remain of a splendid palace, built there by King Herod. He again mounted the hill, leaving Charles and Emily busy with their journals. Captain Huntly joined him, and they de- termined to try whether they could not get into the old church. The west end is semicircular in form, and, from the valley, has a very imposing appear- ance; the east end is greatly dilapidated, but has been closed up by a wall of rough masonry, in which there was a large rude door of wood. Having vainly endeavoured to open it, they knocked loudly, and about six or eight men made their appearance from the herod's palace. 341 neighbouring liuts ; they said nothing, nor did they interfere, but there was something very threatening in their looks. " Never mind those fellows," said Captain Huntly; " I think we can get in at one of the side -windows." He got over a ruined wall, and mounting a great heap of rubbish, made an effort to climb up. Before Mr. Dalton could follow, three of the men sprung forward, and laid hold of the Cap- tain. It was e\'ident that their intentions were any- thing but peaceful. Captain Huntly shook them off, and brandishing his stout cudgel, kept them at bay; by this time his friend had joined the com- batants, and the forces were more equally matched. A parley ensued; but as neither party understood a word their opponents said, it was soon brought to a close. It was clear that admittance to the church would not be allowed, and Captain Huntly and his companion gave up the attempt, retreating slowly, and with as much dignity as the circumstances per- mitted. Mr. Dalton felt thankful that matters had ended so quietly. They then walked through the A-illage, and, a quarter of a mile beyond it, found the objects of their search. Many marble columns, about twelve or fourteen feet high, were standing in a row, while a much greater number were lying about a cul- tivated field; more columns were scattered in the neighbourhood, but no other vestiges are left of Herod's magnificent palace. In it, tradition says that the daughter of Herodias danced before the wicked king, and claimed the head of John the Bap- tist as her reward. Samaria, during the reign of the Kings of Israel, was a city of great importance. It is now a miserable 342 FULFILMENT OF PKOPHECY. village, built upon tlie heaps of rubbish which alone remain to tell of the royal city, for Herod's palace was built long after the captivity and dispersion of the Ten Tribes. The prophecy of Micah* has been exactly fulfilled; Samaria is "an heap of the field/' and the stones thereof have been " poured down " into the neighbouring valley : it is sur- rounded by a beautiful and fertile country, and in this respect has greatly the advantage of Jerusalem. There can be no doubt that at one time it was abundantly supplied with water, and the abject state into which it has fallen is strikingly shown by the fact, that all traces of the wells which anciently supplied it, have been so completely filled up and forgotten, that water is now of necessity fetched from the inconvenient distance we have already men- tioned. The next morning some of the large party of tra- vellers were again ready long before the rest, and, tired of waiting, began the day's journey. Mr. Dalton and his family, although prepared to start, thought it right to stop for Captain Huntly and Mr. Duncan, who had been delayed by another visit to the village. They learned that the ancient Christian church was now turned into a mosque; a very suffi- cient reason for the anger of the people overnight. The first party had gone off by a road to the left, but, by Daireh's advice, the second detachment kept to the higher ground : it had to climb a very high hill, from which a noble view was gained, and the * Micali i. 1 — 6. EASTERN NEGLIGENCE. 343 Mediterranean seen in the distance ; then descending an unusually steep and difficult path, it entered the same road as the other party had to travel. It arrived at the point of junction just as the latter came up, although it had started nearly an hour later. The rest of the day's journey led through a very beautiful valley, with the mountains of Galilee in the far distance. By half-past two the whole party had reached Jenin, supposed by some to be the ancient Jezreel:* it lies on the borders of Samaria, and just within the province of Galilee. In passing through the village, the travellers stopped to refresh their horses and themselves at a noble spring of water which is carried away by an aqueduct of stone. Several women were washing their clothes in the clear stream, but such are the slovenly habits of the people, that the horses had to wade nearly knee deep through a pool of mud before they could reach the pure element. A few hours' exertion of the nume- rous idle fellows who were lying at their ease bask- ing in the sun, in the immediate neighbourhood, would suffice to fill up the hole and drain off the water; but such an effort, for the good of the public, it is in vain to expect from the indolent and selfish people of the East. On the other side of the \411age commences the beautiful plain of Esdraelon — the valley of Jezreel, which stretches away further than the eye can reach. It is supposed that it also bore the name of the Valley of Megiddo, and, if so, it was * Dr. Robinson considers that Zerin, a village some miles distant, is tlie real Jezreel. 344 A SWISS BOTANIST. the scene of King Josiali's deatli.* It was in some part of the j^lain, also, that Naboth had the vineyard which Ahab coveted. + Some of the travellers were much fatigued with the previous day's journey, and our friends were glad when, after a halt and short parley, it was decided to proceed no further that day. The caravan had to retrace its steps to the other side of the village, where it encamped in a pleasant field. A mattress was laid under a tree for Mrs. Dalton, who joyfully threw herself down, and reposed for an hour or two while Charles read, and Emily took a sketch of the encampment. It was a picturesque scene, for in addition to their own large company, a missionary and his wife, on their way to Saffed, came up, and were shortly followed by a Swiss gentleman and lady who were engaged in a botanical tour. The collection of plants they had already made was a sufficient load for a horse. It consisted of two large bales; the flowers, laid in sheets of paper, being pressed between stout boards. Poor Mrs. Dalton cast a wistful eye at their treasures, and regretted that she had not been equally fortunate. She had been tolerably successful, but the perverse stupidity of Bishai had sadly interfered with her good inten- tions. Her children had helped her as much as they could, but travelling in Syria is so excessively fatiguing, that they found it needful to husband their strength. It was as much as any member of the family could do, to sit quietly on horseback for the many hours each day it was necessary to be " en route." * 2 Kings, xxiii. 29, 30. + 1 Kiugs, xxi. THE GOYERXOR'S GUARD. 345 The governor of the \-illage sent to say, that he could not be answerable for the safety of the travel- lers' goods and chattels during the night, unless a regular guard was engaged, and as another party of English had two horses stolen a few nights before, and did not recover them till a handsome ransom was paid, his proposal was accepted. A body of six men soon made their appearance, headed by a fine- looking fellow, in a handsome costume. Acting upon the principle of set a thief to catch a thief, this man had been chosen as the chief of the governor's police. He speedily ingratiated himself into the good graces of Daireh and Mustapha, and did Mr. Dalton the honour to dine at his expense, lapng all the other travellers under contribution for tobacco and coffee. During dinner, he edified his entertainers with a history of his adventures, which the dragoman, in the course of the evening, related again to the family. He had lived for many years by robbery and acts of violence, and resided for some time at Cairo, till, having murdered a soldier who was carrpng money to pay a portion of the army, he had been obliged to fly from Egypt. After spending all his ill-gotten gains, he offered his services to the governor of Jenin. He was taken into his employ, and might now be re- garded in the light of a savage dog, ready to worry every one but his master and his master's friends. As the poor people came up with grass to sell to the travellers, this fellow helped himself to a liberal por- tion, and one poor man who tried to avoid the plunder, received some severe blows. Mr. Dalton asked Daireh how he could countenance such a vil- lain, and his replies showed, as usual, that he had 346 JEZREEL. no clear perception of moral principle. The in- genuity, courage, daring, and hair-breadtli escapes of the fellow covered, in his eyes, the multitude of his sins. The night passed quietly, but the Swiss gentle- man, who refused to place his tents under the care of the guard, found himself minus a carpet-bag in the morning. It is probable this worthy had helped to steal it. A ride of about two hours brought the party to Zerin, which is now thought to be the ancient Jez- reel. It is a miserable village, but finely situated, and is evidently built upon ancient ruins. Our friends joined some of the party in turning off to the right, and after riding up a steep mound of rubbish, they stood on a terrace, from which they had a splen- did view of the plain of Esdraelon.* To the right, rose the mountains of Gilboa: here the disastrous conflict between the people of Israel and the Philis- tines took place, when Saul and his three sons were slain.t At its foot, on the edge of the plain, is the little city of Nain, which is still so called, where our Lord gladdened the poor widow's heart, by restoring her only son to life,J and further on, lies Endor, now named Endur, where Saul consulted the witch. § Beyond it, towering alone in solitary majesty, is Mount Tabor (Gebel-el-Tur), on which tradition says that the transfiguration took place. || If the * Many commentators on prophecy say, that this is the place called Armageddon, referred to as the scene of the great battle of nations, in Revelation, xvi. 1-4 — 16. -f- 1 Samuel, xxxi. 1 — 8. I Luke, vii. 11 — lb. § 1 Samuel, xxviii. 7 — 25. |1 Matthew, xvii. 1 — 8. MOUXT TABOR. 347 expression, "bringetli them up into a high moun- tain ajxvrt,'^ means that the mountain stood de- tached from any other, there can be little doubt that tradition is right. It rises from the plain completely- detached from any other height. An objection is made that a Roman fortress, remains of which are still standing, was probably there in our Saviour's time. The Daltons did not go to the summit, but two of the party who ascended on the following Sunday, stated that it is covered by a natural forest of brushwood and low trees, and that there is ample space around the fort for the miraculous manifesta- tion of our Lord's glory to his disciples, without any of the soldiers who might have been stationed at the time in the fortress, being aware even of their pre- sence. They found a plentiful spring of pure water near the summit, a singular situation to meet with such a treasure. To the left, in the far distance, is Mount Carniel, overhanging the shores of the Mediterranean, while the hills before them, which encircle Nazareth, com- plete the beautiful panorama. One of those who ascended Mount Tabor was Mr. Founder, whose adventure with the Bedouins on the plains of Jericho our young readers w^ll re- member; we must take the present opportunity of introducing him more particularly to our readers. He had, by his singular good nature and readiness to oblige, completely ingratiated himself with the young people. He was, as we have said before, of large frame and proportionate strength ; to this was added great courage and thorough independence of mind. He had not had the advantage of a finished educa- 348 SKETCH OF A TRAVELLER. tion, but was possessed by an insatiable thirst after information, added to remarkable natural capacity. Having acquired an independence by diligent perse- verance in a business where much skill and no small labour were required, he was induced to quit it in consequence of a severe domestic affliction; and now he was travelling through the East, perhaps with the hope of dissipating the melancholy his loss had brought over his mind. He aj^peared to have set out without any settled plan, and certainly without making himself acquainted, by reading, with the countries he was traversing, while he knew no lan- guage but his own. The reason he assigned for tra- velling through a region so far beyond the ordinary track of English travellers was singular, and yet showed the depth of his feelings. He told one of the company that his late wife had often expressed an ardent desire to visit Palestine ; and now he had lost one in whom his chief earthly happiness had been centered, he felt it almost a duty to go through that land she had been so anxious to see. Mr. Founder had not lost his early habits of eco- nomy, and therefore dispensed with many things which other travellers thought necessary. He had proceeded thus far with only a lad for servant, who spoke nothing but Arabic. Ha^dng reached Cairo, he first went up the Nile with an Italian artist, and, judging by his report, they met, as might be ex- pected, with a good deal of inconvenience. His crew took every advantage, and behaved so badly, that at last his patience and good nature being quite ex- hausted, it was time to show them that he was not to be trifled with. After many days' endurance, he ASSAULT ON SUEZ. 349 seized an opportunity, while his companion was on shore, to bring them at once into better order, by- laying about him so vigorously with his cudgel, that the reis and his seven men jumped overboard to escape his vengeance, leaving him alone on the deck, the "monarch of all he surveyed." After this energetic proceeding, they gave him little further trouble. On his return to Cairo, he engaged a Bedouin and two camels, and started for Suez and the Red Sea, accomplishing the journey in two days, and sleeping at nio-ht with no coverinoj but his cloak. His inter- course with his wild guide was confined to signs; but, according to his account, they got on very well. They reached Suez late at night, after a twenty hours' ride on that day. He was dismayed to find the gates shut, and admittance refused. What was to be done? he had exhausted his food some hours before, and had an earnest longing to stretch his weary limbs on a bed. " I couldn't stand there all night, you know," said he, " so I brought up the two camels, and sent them full drive against the gate," adding his own huge frame to the impetus. This living battering-ram did wonders : the gates were burst open, and the town fairly taken by storm. In an instant after, Mr. Founder was addressing the astonished sentinels, to the effect that they might do what they pleased with him, but outside he was not going to stay. Of course they did not understand a word of his pithy oration, but they seemed to have been startled by his vigorous proceeding, and suffered him to pass mthout further remark. When he left Suez early in the morning, a day or two after, the 350 AN AKMY OF FLEAS. gates had not been opened, and several of the inha- bitants were waiting till they were. Directly our doughty friend made his ajjpearance, no time was lost in giving him egress; the door-keepers were glad, we may suppose, to get rid of such a troublesome customer. In returning, his second night's rest in the Desert was disturbed by a wolf, which he saw by the light of the moon snuffing about his legs, to as- certain whether they were good to eat; one desperate kick tumbled the brute over and over, which speedily made off to sup in a quieter region. In his excursion to Mount Tabor, he was accom- panied by Mr. Duncan, and when they descended they entered a deserted ruin, to rest in the shade and take some refreshment. In a minute or two, they found themselves, to their great horror, literally co- vered with fleas. Mr. Founder declared that he had at least " a pint" of them on his own person, and that his white trousers were actually turned brown, (^ce-coloured, he ought to have said). They hur- ried out without delay, took off a garment at a time, shook it violently, threw it to a distance, ran on a little way, served another in the same fashion; and thus, after much loss of time, cleared themselves of the vermin. The story may seem incredible to those who have not travelled in the East; but our readers may form some idea of the enormous number of these minute tormentors which sometimes congregate to- gether, by learning that many villages in Syria are wholly abandoned in the summer by the inhabitants, who take refuge in tents: they are fairly driven from their houses by immense armies of their active little enemies. THE LOITERER ROBBED. 351 The travellers proceeded for some miles in a nearly straight line after leaving Zerin, going through the dry bed of that " ancient river, the river Kishon," and then began to ascend a narrow and very difficult pass, by which the mountains are crossed to Nazareth. One of the Arab servants, who had lingered behind to mend his horse's bridle, was attacked by four men, and robbed almost within sight of the party. When they reached the hills, strict injunctions were laid on every one to keep close to the company. The neigh- bourhood abounds with robbers, who easily make their escape into some of the holes and clefts near at hand. It took nearly two hours to reach Nazareth, which was seen to great advantage, nestled at the foot of the hill, after the summit was crossed. No doubt exists as to this being really the city of our Saviour, and the travellers gazed on the scene with deep interest. Again they felt how highly they were favoured in being permitted to traverse the ground which had been honoured with His footsteps, and to have actually before them that spot of earth where so many years of his life had been passed. 352 NAZAKETH. CHAPTEE XVI. NAZARETH MONKISH INVENTIONS THE VIRGIN's HOUSE A MIRACULOUS COLUMN THE APOSTLE's TABLE REASONABLE DOUBTS THE TEST OF SCRIPTURE FEMALE CURIOSITY CANA IN GALILEE SERMON ON THE MOUNT EFFECTS OF AN EARTHQUAKE GERMAN JEWS — SALE OF THE HORSE A FIELD OF SCORPIONS — ACRE — KHAN-EL-NATURAH RAS-EL- AIN TYRE PROPHECY OF EZEKIEL ALEXANDER'S MOLE POOL OF TORTOISES SIDON — SYRIAN FISHERMAN IN- ROADS OF THE DESERT — ENVIRONS OF BEYROOT NEWS FROM HOME. Descending into the plain, and passing by the Latin convent, the travellers selected a field just beyond the town, and the tents were raised. Close at hand was a copious spring, the constant resort of the place. It bears the name of " the Well of the Virgin," for here, it is said, she came daily for water; nor is it at all improbable that such was the case, as the principal supply for the whole neighbourhood is from this spot. The town is very prettily situated at the foot of a considerable hill, and the houses rise above each other on its rather steep side. There is an air of comfort and comparative cleanliness in its appearance which contrasts favourably with most Syrian towns. A large proportion of the inhabitants are Latin or Greek Christians, and probably the presence of so many monks has had a beneficial effect — in externals, ^ MONKISH INVENTIONS. 353 at least. Before the tents lay a valley of some depth ; and, at about two miles distant, the hill to which, the monks say, our Lord was led to be cast down by his fellow-townsmen, rose boldly on the left. It is called "the Mount of Precipitation." Once more tradition and the plain narrative of Scripture are at variance. After Jesus had expounded a pas- sage out of Isaiah to the people in the synagogue, Luke says that they were filled with wrath, and that they " thrust him out of the city, and led him unto the brow of the hill on which it was built."* It is not reasonable to suppose that an excited mob would have led their unresisting victim two miles before they attempted a deliberate murder, nor would the Evangelist call a distant promontory the site of the town. It is the more surprising that the plain text of the Bible has in this case been departed from, as there are some very extensive and ancient ci[uarries excavated in the hill lying close to the town, down whose perpendicular sides a fall would be fatal. Is it not highly probable that his persecutors \vished to cast our Lord over the brink of one of these? After an early dinner, the whole of the party visited the Latin convent. It is said to be built over the spot where the Virgin's house stood. The company first entered the church, where a monk was performing the evening service, and nearly a hundred children, kneeling on the floor, were sing- ing, accompanied by an organ. The Daltons stopped to listen to the hymn. Great pains had evidently been taken to teach the children, and the effect was * Luke, iv. 29. A A 354 THE virgin's house. very pleasing. The church was not large, but in very neat order, and fitted up in the Italian style, with pictures, side chapels, &c. In the centre was a broad flight of six or eight marble steps, which, when the service was over, the travellers descended, preceded by a monk. They now stood on the exact site of the Virgin's house. The building itself was carried away by angels, many centuries ago, to Loretto, in Italy, where it is encased in marble, most elaborately sculptured, and has been regarded for many centuries as an object of extreme venera- tion by pilgrims of all ranks and countries. When the Empress Helena visited Palestine, it was still standing in its original position, and she cov ered it with a magnificent church. During the invasion of the Saracens into the Holy Land, they destroyed her pious work, and that so precious a relic might escape from their ravages, it was miraculously transported, first to the coast of Dalmatia, in 1291, and three years after, it suddenly made its appearance in a grove near Loreto; the year after, it removed once more into the place where it now stands. So great was the number of devotees who came to worship there, that a large town speedily arose, and the shrine at which they ofiered their devotions was loaded with gold and precious stones, while the treasury accu- mulated an immense amount of wealth. The French, during the revolutionary war, plundered it of almost all that was valuable, but left the sacred house un- touched. It is built of brick, but the angels ha^dng carelessly lost the floor in the long flight, it has been replaced by one of marble. In a niche over the fireplace stands a figure of the Virgin, said to have MIRACULOUS COLUMX. 355 been sculptured by St. Luke. It bears the infant Saviour in its arms, and is almost covered with jewels. AYhile Nazareth has thus been despoiled of what the Roman Catholics regard as a most precious relic, the angels were so obliging as to leave the kitchen behind ; as usual, it is a grotto. The monk told his auditors it was occupied by a female relation of the Virgin, during her visit to Elizabeth, the rest of the house being shut up. To condemn her friend to live in a cave, during her absence, was certainly not very kind or hospitable. In it stands an altar, and to the left is the upper half of a granite column, which hangs from the roof. " It is miraculously suspended," said the monk ; pushing it, at the same time, to show how firmly it was fixed. It would be very easy to hold a mass of stone in such a position, by means of a bar of iron let into the centre and properly fastened in the rock above; but the superstitious Catholic indignantly rejects so natural a supposition. In a corner, behind the column, a square hole, cut through the rock, was pointed out as the window through which the angel came, to announce to Mary that she was to be the mother of our Lord. Leaving the church, their guide hastened for a bunch of large keys, and, followed by the travellers, he led them some distance through the town to the workshop of Joseph, the carpenter, which is also a grotto, with a recess in one corner. Mr. Founder always acted on the principle of believing what he was told, and in that respect had the advantage of those who inquired too curiously into the truth. The sight of this place pleased him vastly ; he asked A A 2 356 THE apostle's table. tlie monk many questions by the aid of Emily, who acted as interpreter of Italian, and ended by saying, " Well, now ! this is curious — only think : here, I dare say, the boy used to play while his father was at work." The next curiosity shown to the travellers was a huge and nearly round mass of stone, pro- jecting rather more than three feet above the ground; it had a flat top, and is said to be the table at which our Lord and his disciples sat to eat, after his resur- rection. A chapel is built over it, and on one side of the altar is hung a bull, from one of the popes, granting certain indulgences to those who attend a mass performed there. The last curiosity the monk had to show was the Synagogue of the Jews, in which our Saviour read the passage out of Isaiah, on the Sabbath day, and excited the anger of his un- believing countrymen. It is a small building, appa- rently of great antiquity ; but there is no evidence to show that it really was the scene of his memorable address. The sun had now declined, and the Daltons, fatigued with their walk, sat at the tent door, after the heat of the day, to enjoy the scene, and to try and realize the fact that it was indeed Nazareth that lay before them. It sometimes seemed as if it were only a dream, that they were in places they had heard and read of from childhood, and with which their brightest hopes and most holy feelings were so closely associated. Charles and Emily, ^vith the easy belief of youth, were as much disposed as Mr. Founder to credit all the monkish traditions which abound in the Holy Land. It was often a sad disappointment to hear their incredulous father raise some fatal ob- REASONABLE DOUBTS. 357 jection to tlie truth or probability of a statement which they would have been glad to have left un- questioned. Their parents (especially their thought- ful mother) took care that, in rejecting what was evidently false, they did not throw away the truth at the same time. To-day Mr. Dalton had thought it right to impugn most of the monk's legends; and his wife, while she agreed in the justice of his remarks, seized the opportunity of saying a few words of caution. She reminded them that while there was good reason to doubt whether they had seen ' the Grotto of the Annunciation,' ^ Joseph's workshop,' or ' the Synagogue of the Jews,' yet no one could reasonably question the fact that Nazareth lay before them, and that here our Lord had passed several years in his early youth ; still more certainly might they feel assured that an angel did bear the wonderful tidings of the miraculous conception to the Virgin Mary, the ^ highly-favoured,' the ' blessed among women;' that the reputed father of our Saviour was a humble car- penter; and that Jesus did here ' preach the acceptable year of the Lord ' to his unbelieving and persecuting fellow citizens. For these and many other things which personally and intimately concern ourselves, we have the testimony of the Word of God. They are written in the Scripture of Truth, which all the wit, learning, and ingenuity of the infidel have never been able to disprove. Every newly ascertained fact in history, every fresh discovery of the traveller, and all increase of our knowledge in natural philosophy, serve but to strengthen the evidence of the genuine- ness and authenticity of the Word of God. Let us 358 THE TEST OF SCRIPTURE. then take our stand by the Bible, and be fully per- suaded in our own mind, by careful examination of the evidences of its truth, accompanied by earnest prayer for divine assistance, that it is what it pro- fesses to be — a Revelation from God to his creatures; and then let us receive all it tells us with the simple trust of a little child. Let us, without hesitation, re- ject everything contradictory to its contents, and re- member that ^whatsoever is not read therein, nor maybe proved thereby,'* may be accepted or rejected, at the discretion of the inquirer. — " There is some- thing so pleasant in giving reins to our imagination, on visiting localities such as we have seen to-day," added their father, " that, strange as you may think it, I assure you that I do violence to myself in not taking for granted all that is told to us. Truth, however, is so sacred, so valuable, so noble, that we ought and must abide by it at all costs and under all circumstances. ' The next day was Sunday, and the Daltons de- termined that they would not depart from their cus- tom of making it a day of rest. Captain Huntly and his friend followed their example, but the rest of the party left early in the morning. There were again many reports about the dangerous state of the country, and a Bedouin Sheikh offered his services as guard. After listening to his representations, the gentlemen decided that they and the servants formed a sufficient force to deter the Arabs from any attack; they thought also, that he had greatly exaggerated the perils of the way, and so they declined his offer. * Sixth Article of tlie Churcb of England. FEMALE CURIOSITY. 359 The Sabbath was quietly spent, although there was some little annoyance from the women of the neigh- bourhood, who now ventured to come up to the tent- While Captain Huntly, Mr. Dalton, and Charles were taking a walk, three of them boldly entered, and stood for some minutes staring fixedly at the Frank ladies. Daireh soon followed them in, and they were asked what they wanted. " To look at the ladies," was the reply; and they then began to ask many questions. Some were answered, and they were then told to go away, as they had looked long enough. They obeyed with some reluctance, without appearing to have the least idea that they had been guilty of rudeness. Not far from the encampment, stood a handsome church; it covers a spring, which the Greek monks contend is the real " Well of the Virgin." In the afternoon, the family entered it. There was a per- fect crowd round them, during their stay, but the people behaved very respectfully, and took pains to point out everything worth notice. In the evening they ascended the hill on which the city is built. It was rather high, and has a santon's tomb on the summit. The view was very extensive. Mount Carmel was plainly seen to the left ; and the snowy peaks of the mountains of Lebanon rose nobly to the right in the far distance. The little, but highly elevated town of Saffed, was also discernible, al- though it would require two days journey to reach it. On turning round, they looked down on the roofs of the houses of Nazareth, but as the city is surrounded by high hills on all sides, the view was circumscribed, although still beautiful. Its secluded 360 CANA IN GALILEE. situation, and difficulty of access, made it anciently the resort of those who fled from justice, and of other bad and doubtful characters, and it was chiefly in- habited by a lawless population. Hence the origin of the question, " Can any good come out of Na- zareth ?" Before eight o'clock the next mornings the greatly diminished cavalcade was again in motion, and at once entered a steep and narrow valley, by which the hills which bound Nazareth to the south-east are crossed. The travellers soon reached Kafr-Kana, which is thought by some to be the j^lace where Christ performed the miracle of turning water into wine. The large earthen jars said to have been used on the occasion, are still preserved for the gratifi- cation of the curious. It is, however, now satis- factorily settled, that another village on the extensive plain they were traversing, and still bearing, in Arabic, the Scripture name of Cana in Galilee (Kana-el-Geleil), is the real spot. The country was so luxuriant in vegetation, that thistles and other weeds rose six feet high in rich profusion, but it was melancholy to observe how small a proportion of the land was under cultivation. After some hours' ride, they began to ascend the hills which bound the Lake of Tiberias. Before them rose two sister-eminences, enclosing a circular hollow between them which formed a good natural amphitheatre. Tradition says, that here our Saviour delivered his Sermon on the Mount, and a more suitable situation for addressing a great multitude could hardly be chosen. Leaving it a little to the right, the travellers arrived at the ridge of a hill SERMON ON THE MOUNT. 361 which commanded a view of the whole of the Lake of Gennesaret,* and a large extent of country on the opposite shore. The ruins of an ancient town, gene- rally supposed to be Capernaum, lay near the lake at the northern extremity, and not far beyond, the Jordan pours into it. The city of Tiberias, to which they were bound, lies at the foot of the hill on which our travellers stood. Here then, was the region so much honoured by the presence of our Lord, where so many of His miracles were performed, from whence He selected His twelve disciples, and where He first entered on His public labours. The sun was shining on the peaceful waters, which were not rippled by a breath of wind: it seemed as if they were still obeying the commands of Him who once said to them, " Peace, be still." Like all other lakes shut in by mountains, it is, however, very soon lashed into fury by the wind, and navigation in small boats is at such seasons extremely dangerous. In a short time after recommencing their journey, the party reached the shore, and the tents were pitched just outside the town, close to the water. Tiberias (now called Tabberieh) was built by King Herod, not long before the birth of our Saviour. It was a city of great magnificence, but has long since fallen into decay. After being reduced to moderate limits, in the middle ages, the Saracens surrounded it with a strong wall and several towers. On the 1st of January, 1837, a violent earthquake destroyed * The Sea of Tiberias, or Sea of Galilee. The Arabs, to the present day, call any large body of water a sea. The Eiver Nile is often so designated. 362 EFFECTS OF AN EARTHQUAKE. many of the houses and inhabitants, and reduced the wall and towers to a mass of ruins. No effort has been made to repair the damage done to the latter, and the many breaches and numerous cracks in the masonry plainly show what a terrible visitation it must have been. Before this event, there were but two entrances to the town, both near the lake ; now, the peasant drives his cattle and sheep over the breach in the wall which is nearest to his house. One or two of the towers have not wholly fallen, but they have been split to their foundations, and seem ready to bury the passer-by under their huge bulk. About a mile beyond stands a handsome modern building, erected by Ibrahim Pasha, during his short sway over Syria. It covers four mineral springs of hot water, and the whole district gives evidence of volcanic agency. Mr. Dalton and his son did not avail themselves of the Pasha's baths, but gladly took the opportunity of refreshing them- selves in the lake itself. On the shores they found an immense number of small and pretty shells; some of them were like those offered for sale by the Bedouins, at the Dead Sea. It is probable that many are washed down by the impetuous Jordan, which may account for their being found in a water generally believed to be wholly untenanted by living creatures. After dinner, they walked through the dull and miserable town. Many of the houses have been re- built, but much of it still lies in shapeless ruins. They were surprised to find several of the inhabitants dressed in a costume not widely different from that of some parts of Germany and Switzerland. On GERM AX JEWS. 3G3 looking into some of the rooms on the ground floor, they noticed a portion raised above the rest, contain- ing a bed of ample dimensions, a division of the apartment very conamon in both those countries. Seeing a very neat and primitive-looking old woman reading a German book as she sat at a window, Mr. Dalton, with the assistance of Emily, who spoke a little of the language, asked her how long she had been there? While answering the question, some men came up, one of whom understood French, and they learned that Tabberieh is, like Jerusalem, He- bron, and Saffed, considered a holy city. There are many Jews, principally Germans, residing there, who have abandoned their native places and come to dwell in this far land, in the fond hope that the Messiah w^ill soon appear and restore the kingdom of Israel. The travellers were greatly interested by this conversation; they felt that there was something peculiarly affecting in the sight of so many of the descendants of Abraham, who had left their native land, and all their . old associations and friends, to settle down on the very spot where their ancestors had so often heard the sound of the gospel from the lips of that Messiah, whose fatal rejection had been the cause of so many centuries of misery and degra- dation to the dispersed people. In the course of their journey through Syria, the Daltons met mth a young missionary and his wife, on their way to Saffed, to labour among a colony of European Jews, who reside there with the same expectation as their brethren of Tiberias. Little has yet been done towards the con- version of the Jews in any part of the world; but the attention of Christians has of late years been 364 BOAT ON THE LAKE. earnestly directed to their sad state, and the light of gospel truth is in some measure dispersing the dark- ness which has so long hung over the children of Abraham. There are a few Christians in Tiberias; and their church, which is ancient, is built over the spot where Peter's house is said to have stood. Our travellers did not enter it. The town has more than a usual share of vermin, and the king of the fleas is said to hold his court there : they were informed that a large number of his subjects constantly resided in the church, and it was hardly prudent to disturb them. In the evening, a breeze sprung up; and while the travellers were at tea, a boat, containing a decent- looking family of six or eight Syrians, sailed by. It was large, and would have held a much greater num- ber. It was doubtless in such a " ship" as this that our Saviour often traversed the waters. The lake too, swarmed with fish, the descendants of those that had filled the net of the astonished Simon. On some part of the opposite coast was the country of the Gadarenes, where the devils were permitted to enter the swine. Everything around them brought some incident of our Saviour's history to their minds. The next morning they were obliged to leave a spot so dear to every Christian. Mrs. Dalton would gladly have lingered for a week by the shores of the Sea of Galilee. She was surprised to find how vividly the gospel narratives rose in her memory. It seemed, at times, hardly extravagant to imagine that the meek and lowly Jesus would soon be seen crossing the water in the boat of the humble fisherman, while ga- thering crowds, bringing the sick, the lame, and the DREAMS OF THE PAST. 365 blind, would line the shore in anxious expectation of his arrival. A glance around would dispel the delu- sion — all was solitary, desolate, and deserted. A mean, dirty, ruined town; a rich country, abundant in weeds only; a beautiful lake, almost wholly ne- glected by the fisherman, and with scarcely a boat on its bosom — all plainly told that the Messiah's oft-re- peated invitations had been rejected, and that the promised land still languished under the wrath of a justly offended God. Having again ascended the hill, and given one long parting look at the fair lake, the travellers turned off to the right in the direction of Acre. By taking that course, they lost the opportunity of passing by the ruins of Capernaum, and visiting the town of Saffed, from whose highly elevated site the finest and most extensive view in Palestine is obtained. The latter route would have been by far the most inter- esting, but there was some doubt whether Mrs. Dalton could bear the fatigue of the long ascent. The poor runaway horse was also suffering sadly from his wounded knee. A mule had been hired in his place, and he no longer carried any one, but he was so lame that he could hardly keep pace with the rest. During the morning, the owner of the mule proposed to buy the horse, and after some discussion, made the noble offer of a hundred piastres* for the animal. Mr. Dalton had now got a little experience of the Arab mode of dealing, and saw clearly that the man ex- pected that he should have it at his own price, so his offer was quietly declined. Turning to Daireh, he * About twenty sbilliugs sterling. 366 SALE OF THE HORSE. said^ " The man offers such a paltry sum, that it is not worth accepting. Give me a pistol, and I will shoot it through the head; the j)oor creature will be put out of his misery, at any rate." On hearing this, the man begged time to consider whether he could not amend his offer. It subsequently rose to two hundred and eighty piastres, which was accepted; and to the great satisfaction of the whole family, it was left with a friend of the mule driver to enjoy the rest and attention it so much needed. In the course of the day, the travellers passed near to Cana of Galilee, and soon after were met by four Bedouins, well armed. They stopped Daireh, and asked where the travellers had come from. He saidy "From Nazareth and Tiberias." — "Had they not been robbed, or were they not afraid of being attack- ed ?" The reply they received was in the usual mag- niloquent language which this worthy indulged in on such occasions, and in which a departure from the truth was a matter of course. He told the men that there were three Franks in the comj)any, who con- sidered themselves fully equal to cope vrith. a whole regiment of Turkish soldiers, and that he and the other attendants would take care not to be idle in case of emergency. What need was there, then, for fear from a thousand Bedouins ? It is not to be sup- posed that such language would make much impres- sion on his interrogators, nor can it be a question that they would have plundered the party if they could; but after a careful survey of its strength, they went off, casting a longing look at the baggage-mules. Although ten hours had been spent on horseback, the travellers could not reach Acre that night, but A FIELD OF SCORPIONS. 367 were obliged to encamp in a field four miles distant, but with the town in sight. In the morning, Daireli produced a scorpion, of a dark green colour, which he found under his mattress. The whole neighbour- hood was covered by large stones, and Mr. Dalton and his children went scorpion-hunting. There was one under almost every stone they turned up, and they soon caught and killed more than a dozen quite close to their tent: the field must have contained many hundreds. It is well that these venomous and dangerous creatures do not wound any one till they are annoyed or hurt. If a stick is pressed upon them, the tail is instantly turned up, and several smart raps given to it with the sting at the end. It is therefore by a blow, and not a bite, that they do injury, and hence the expression in the Bible, " as the torment of a scorpion when he striketh a man."* Their venom is rarely fatal, but the whole body swells, and great torture is felt for many hours. The family were grateful for their escape from their for- midable and dangerous attack. A ride the next morning of less than two hours brought the travellers to Acre. The remarkably fine bay, which separates the town from the promontory on which Carmel stands, lay to their left. They re- gretted that circumstances would not permit their devoting a day to go round the bay, and ascend a mountain of so great interest. A monastery now stands on the site where (according to tradition) the prophet Elijah gathered King Ahab and the people of Israel to ^vitness his defeat of the prophets of * Revelation, ix. 5. 368 ACRE. Baal.* The monks profess to show the cave in which he lived for some time. The view from the convent must be magnificentj it commands the bay, the town of Acre, and a long line of the coast of Palestine to the north and south. The Daltons and their friends rode through the town, which has never recovered from the terrible effects of its bombardment by the English in 1840. The repair of the fortifications is in progress, but there still remains plenty of evidence to prove what havoc was done in a few hours to a place which had the reputation of being impregnable. From Mount Carmel, where it could be viewed without danger, the engagement was seen to great advantage; and the explosion which blew up the fort, and decided the fortune of the day, must have been as magni- ficent as it was terrible. Close to Acre, a large number of Turkish cavalry were encamped. The horses were picketed in long- rows, with their saddles on : it is doubtful whether they are taken off even at night. A fine stream of water, conveyed by an aqueduct, and brought from the distant hills, bounded the path on the left hand. On it alone Acre depends for a supply. It appeared as if it would be an easy thing, in time of war, to deprive the town of the useful element, by the destruction of the aqueduct, as it is not very strongly built, and breaches in it might be made in a few minutes. Further on, is a very large garden belonging to some pasha: it is kept in excellent order, and contains a great variety of trees. The * 1 Kings, xviii. 19 — 46. KHAN-EL-NATURAH. 369 route to day was nearly north, and close to the sea- shore. At night, they encamped in a pleasant spot, at Khan-el-Naturah. In pitching the tent, several more scorpions were found, and some care was re- quired to clear away those lurking under and near the tents. The following day, after two hours' ride over a tolerably level plain, a singular promontory, project- ing into the sea, was reached. It is an enormous rock, which rises to a great height, and is called Capo Blanco, from its white colour. The ascent was very difficult, and the descent somewhat dangerous. The stone of Avhich it consists is as hard as marble, and great labour has been expended in cutting a road through it ; in some places it overhangs the sea, and a false step would be fatal. The honour of constructing this memorable pass is ascribed to Alexander the Great ; if so, it was done about the time of his memorable siege of Tyre. That city, and even Sidon, were seen in the distance. The road, after crossing the cape, is paved vnih large blocks of stone, but is in a ruined state, being partly broken up. It was probably laid down in Alexander's time, and the ruts worn by wheel-carriages, which have not been used in Syria for many ages, are still visible. By noon, our travellers had arrived at Kas-el-Ain (Head of the Fountain), one of the most remarkable remains of antiquity. Turning to the right, and leaving the shore, they rode by the side of a stream of pure water, sufficiently large to turn three mills built over it. It issues from a lofty aqueduct of stone, through one of whose arches they passed when B B 370 KAS-EL-AIN. they were about a quarter of a mile from the seaj then having entered a small village, they dismounted, and ascended to the top of a very large square build- ing, which rose some thirty feet above the ground. It contains a cistern, or reservoir, of immense mag- nitude, octagonal in form, with a wide walk round it on the top of the walls. They are very solid, and as hard as granite, although composed of small pebbles and cement only. Here, the water was springing up in great abundance, being carried off by a channel into the aqueduct. The reservoir has been ascer- tained to decrease in diameter under the surface, by regular steps, but it is said that no bottom has been found in the centre ; perhaps the strong current up- ward has prevented its being properly sounded. No satisfactory explanation has yet been given where the water comes from, but the probable supposition is, that it is conveyed by a subterraneous channel from the neighbouring hills. According to tradition, this noble work was constructed by Solomon, for Hiram, King of Tyre, to supply his city, and as a mark of gratitude for the assistance given by the latter in building the Temple. There is nothing ex- travagant in the idea : no one can question the re- mote antiquity of the reservoir, and it bears so little sign of decay, that it may endure to the end of time. If it be, as some have imagined, an Artesian well, it shows that a degree of scientific knowledge was brought into use far beyond the age in which it was constructed ; such as we may suppose that Solomon, wisest of men, could alone possess. There are two other reservoirs higher up, of smaller dimensions : their water is conveyed by TYRE. 371 another aqueduct to the first mentioned. Much of it now escapes, and forms the stream we have already- described. The princijDal aqueduct conveys an abun- dant supply of water to Tyre. It has been contended that this remarkable work of art cannot be so ancient as the time of Solomon, for the present Tyre did not then exist ; but it is not unreasonable to suppose that, when the more modern city was founded, the course of the aqueduct was changed. T}Te was not more than two miles off, but an hour was spent in journeying thither, in consequence of the road being along the soft sand of the sea-shore. The Daltons had scarcely entered upon it, before Marshall's horse suddenly lay down, and hardly- giving her time to jump off', began rolling itself. Charles and Emily had a hearty laugh at her mishap, but were soon otherwise employed, for their horses followed the example of the first. Daireh jumped off" to help them, and his animal caught the conta- gion, to the great detriment of the good things in the tiffin-bag, which hung at his saddle-bow ready for lunch. Of Old Tyre, not a vestige remains. It was founded by the people of Sidon, nearly thirteen cen- turies before the Christian era, and enjoyed for many years an extent of commerce and consequent prospe- rity almost unexampled. Nearly two hundred years before its destruction, the prophet Isaiah pronounced '^The burden of Tyre;"* and history records how fully and literally his denunciations, as well as those of Ezekiel,t have been fulfilled. When it was taken. Isaiah, xxiii. f Ezekiel, xxvi., xxvii., aud xxviii. B B 2 372 PROPHECY OF EZEKIEL. after a long siege, by Nebuchadnezzar, King of Babylon, be found but little of his anticipated plun- der, as the inhabitants had already built a city on the present site, and conveyed most of their wealth there ; enraged at his disappointment, he reduced it to utter ruin. The predictions of Ezekiel were uttered a few years previous to their fulfilment, and are very re- markable. Volney calls the twenty-seventh chapter of this book, " a valuable fragment of antiquity." It refers at some length, and with great minuteness, to the wonderful commerce the Tyrians then enjoyed. It also plainly shows, that navigation, the arts, and manufactures, flourished even at that early period, to a much greater extent than is generally imagined. The new city, although built on an island half a mile from the shore, and strongly fortified, did not long enjoy its security. It was first subdued by the Babylonians, and languished under their iron rule. Half a century later, when Babylon fell into the hands of the Persians, Tyre again recovered much of her vast opulence and trade. Her citizens were able to resist for several months the formidable attack of Alexander the Great, in B.C. 332 ; and it was not till the island was connected with the mainland by a vast mole, that he was able to reduce it to submission. The gigantic work of the conquering Macedonian remains to the present day. An enormous quantity of earth and other materials were employed in con- structing it, and it is generally believed that the ruins of Old Tyre were entirely consumed on the occasion. The prophet Ezekiel had foretold that her walls should be broken down and her pleasant houses Alexander's mole. 373 destroyed : her stones, lier timber, and her dust laid in the midst of the water.* The old city is thought to have been two or three miles from the more modern, and at a little distance from the shore, but there is some reason to believe that the spot on which it stood is now covered by the sea. It has often been sought for, but will never be found again. + Her walls have been destroyed, her towers broken down, and even the very dust has been scraped from her foundations. J In riding into the city, along the mole, which is now covered with sand, the travellers passed by an extensive excavation, on which several workpeople were then employed. Many large fragments of wrought stone had been recently disinterred, and others might be seen projecting from the sides of the pit. Doubtless they were part of the ruined build- ings of Old Tyre, conveyed there twenty-one cen- turies ago by the Grecian soldiers. Some remains of the ancient harbour are still visible, as well as fragments of the wall by which the city was surrounded; there are also portions of columns, &c., strewed in various directions. Tyre is now a dull and desolate place. It carries on a little trade, and two or three small merchant-vessels were riding in the harbour; but scarcely a shadow of its former importance remains, nor is it likely ever again to become a great commercial city. Large spaces of ground are quite bare, even of vegetation. They are covered with mounds of rubbish, where lie hid the ruins of its palaces and temples. Part of the * Ezekiel, xxvi. 12. f Ibid. xxvi. 19—21. J Ibid. xxvi. 4. 374 TYRE. walls of a Cliristian cliurch of great magnitude is still standing, and Mr. Dalton climbed up the broken steps of an old tower attached to it, to gain a view of the town and neighbourhood. From their ele- vated position, they could plainly discern the havoc that war and time have made in the merchant-city. The founding of the church has been ascribed to Orio-en."^ In its construction, some enormous co- lumus of Egyptian granite, taken, no doubt, from an heathen temple, were used : they now lie pros- trate, and broken in fragments, and nearly buried in the soil. After leaving the city, the travellers had to pace heavily through another deep bed of sand for at least three miles before a firmer pathway was gained. That there is no better access to Tyre shows plainly how little traffic can be carried on — she is no longer " a merchant of the people for many isles." They stopped to take lunch near an ancient pool, contained in a large stone cistern, while their poor animals recovered a little from their fatiguing course through the sand. The pool was crowded with water-tortoises, about eight or ten inches long; many had mounted on the wall of the reservoir, and were basking in the sun. The young folks tried to catch several, but the creatures were too cunning to allow them to approach near enough. They glided gently into the water, used their short fins vigo- rously, and were far below the surface in an instant. In shape, they were not very difierent from the land-tortoise, although much larger : the latter had * Origen died a.d. 254. POOL OF TORTOISES. 375 frequently been seen since our travellers had entered Syria. Snakes, too, are very common ; some of them of a large size. It was amusing to see these crea- tures, with forked tongue and sharp bright eyes, their heads just projecting from a hole in the earth, to be speedily drawn out of sight at the least alarm. More than once Mustapha galloped up to one that was darting across the path, and, drawing his sword, adroitly cut off its head, then, holding the writhing body on the point, he brought it in triumph to the young people. The rest of the day's journey offered nothing of special interest. An old stone bridge was passed in the course of the afternoon : it crossed a considerable mountain stream. By the banks, a great number of oleanders of large size, and covered with beautiful blossoms, were growing luxuriantly. It was curious to see a plant, so highly valued in the English con- servatory, flourishing in such profusion in its wild and natural state. Mustapha had been sent forward with the baggage, and did not raise the tents till he got to Ain-el-Kanterah. He had gone so far, that the travellers did not reach the resting place till an hour after dark. It had been a very hot and trying day; they had been on horseback for nearly twelve hours, and sorely needed repose. The encampment had been made in a garden, or rather orchard, near to a fine spring of water. It was close to the sea-shore, and the next morning Charles and Emily picked up some curious shells that were still inhabited. Many, however, did not contain their legitimate tenants. A small crab had taken possession of one, and growing in bulk, after 376 siDON. beginning housekeeping, could do nothing more than put its head, claws, and fore-legs out of the entrance. In the garden, a few more scorpions were found. They were now. regarded without terror, and Emily said it was a good illustration of the proverb, that " Familiarity breeds contempt." A ride of rather more than two hours brought our travellers to Sidon, one of the oldest cities in the world. It was probably founded by the grand- son of Ham, the son of Noah, and is expressly men- tioned as having existed before the building of the Tower of Babel.* Like Tyre, it once enjoyed a very extensive commerce, and was the subject of the threat- enings of God by his prophet Ezekiel,t and, like Tyre, it has long fallen into decay. It is supposed by some that the Sidonians had dealings with Great Britain, trading there for tin and copper. The god- dess Ashtoreth, worshipped by this people, was one of the abominations which led the heart of Solomon astray. J The city does not present the same picture of desolation as Tyre. It is surrounded by extensive plantations of fruit-trees, and although the streets were dull, there was some sign of business. Near the entrance-gate is a row of tall and rather good- looking houses, from whose roofs the flags of several European nations were streaming. They are dis- played by the various consuls, who have little more than sinecures; but the distinction is much coveted by the natives, who enjoy certain immunities in * Genesis, x. 19. + Ezekiel, xxviii. 20 — 23. l 1 Kings, xi. 5. siDON. 377 consequence. One of the largest and most imposing of these ensigns, was that of a petty inland German duchy, whose subjects, in all probability, do not possess a single merchant vessel. The Daltons, on leaving Sidon, were again obliged to wade a wearisome distance along the sandy beach, and then entered a road among the rocks more than usually trying. Their horses were sometimes fet- lock deep in sand, and the next moment scrambling over huge stones. They again passed along the remains of an ancient road which had been paved with great masses of stone : some had sunk far below the rest; others had been displaced, and even piled on each other, as if, ages ago, the road had been broken up, to hinder the progress of an enemy's army, and never since repaired. Then came a few miles of sandy beach, having on the left a small building, said to be the tomb of Jonah the prophet, who was cast ashore by the whale near the spot. Then fol- lowed another scramble over a rocky headland; and at last, a beautiful spot was reached by the side of a plentiful stream of water, where the travellers en- camped. On one side of the field, the river poured rapidly down to the sea, while the other was bounded by a grove of noble oleanders in full bloom. Before them rolled the Mediterranean; in the background was a picturesque bridge, some of whose arches had been carried away by the sudden rise of the torrent after one of the violent rains to which Syria is subject; while majestically towering in the distance, and gilded by the rays of the setting sun, were the sno^\7• heights of Lebanon. dtb SYRIAN FISHERMAN. A man was fishing in the river by a process pecu- liar to the country. The water was not more than two feet deep, and he stood motionless in the centre of the stream till he saw a fish come within reach. In an instant, a circular net of very large dimensions, which had been ingeniously arranged on his left arm and shoulder, was thrown out with great dex- terity. It fell into the river, covering a large round space, and rarely failed to entrap his prey. At night, an immense number of large frogs kept up a noisy and incessant chorus, not unfrequently broken in upon by the wild cry of jackals, which seemed to abound in the neighbourhood. The family slept soundly, however, notwithstanding these dis- turbances, and arose early the next morning well refreshed for the day's journey. The road was even more difficult and trying than the previous day, and for some miles lay among the numerous rocks on the sea-shore. Then a short and pleasant path through some extensive plantations of olives was traversed, and succeeded by a perfect wilderness of sand, which rose in high ridges like gigantic waves. The wind had effaced all trace of former footsteps, and hid in the hollows, as our tra- vellers sometimes were, it was difficult to proceed in the right direction. When an eminence was gained, a most fruitful and beautiful valley was seen at a short distance to the right, and above it rose the mountains of Lebanon. This sandy desert is perseveringly making its in- roads on the fertile land, and has been doing so for centuries. On its borders might be seen olive, fig, and other trees, their trunks more or less buried, but INROADS OF THE DESERT. 379 yet in healthy condition, and still bearing fruit. Their time was coming; in a few years they will be wholly swallowed by the invader, and their neigh- bours will have begun to share their fate. It does not appear that any effort has been made to stop the progress of the enemy, which threatens in time to bury the whole valley. Be^Toot was now within sight, the Desert was passed, and the travellers rode for some distance through narrow lanes, bounded by hedges of the prickly pear, enclosing gardens of the white mul- berry tree. A very large quantity of silk is annually produced at Beyroot, and almost all the land in the vicinity is devoted to the culture of food for silk worms. The trees, covered by bright, fresh, green leaves, were very pleasant to the eye. In three or four weeks, most of them would be stripped of their produce, and look very unsightly : they soon throw out a second crop of leaves, which is gathered as food for cattle. It might be imagined that the poor trees would hardly bear such rough treatment, but it does not appear to affect their vigour. At the gates of the town, the Daltons parted with their kind friend, Captain Huntly, and his pleasant companion. They went to an hotel, kept by an Italian ; but our travellers had become so much attached to their tents, that they determined not to give them up. Daireh found a vacant space near the sea-shore, about a quarter of a mile to the south of Beyroot, where already were raised the tents of some of the party who had left them at Nazareth. Here, for awhile, the travellers were glad to rest. It must be admitted that a journey through Syria 380 NEWS FROM ROME. cannot be accomplished without the endurance of great fatigue and considerable inconvenience. Scarcely a day passes without a severe trial of the traveller's patience, and he must needs arm himself against the petty vexations which continually occur. He can- not expect, either, to be wholly free from apprehen- sions of danger, especially if he be accompanied by females or children ; but the exceeding interest of the places he visits, the novelty of his mode of tra- velling, and everything he sees, produce an excite- ment which makes him, in a great measure, regard- less of fatigue and annoyance. The purity of the air allows also of much greater exertion than under an English sky. He finds too, that the danger is exaggerated, and is rarely of any great extent. His comfort mainly depends on his choice of servants : if they are experienced, and do their duty, he is saved from much anxiety. They should be kindly treated, and, as much as is prudent, confided in. The poor Arab, however, with some exceptions, has little higher motives for good conduct than self-interest, and therefore strict discipline is necessary. Mr. Dalton's first business was to hurry to a merchant to whom he had directed his letters to be addressed. Several were placed in his hand. It was now five months since the family had received any from Europe, in consequence of a packet sent to Cairo having miscarried. Those only who have endured a similar privation can tell how welcome they were. c Mi # BEYROOT. 381 CHAPTEK XVII. BEYROOT A DISAPPOINTMENT THE TENTS IN DANGER VISIT TO A NATIVE KHAMSEEN WIND COPT LIBERALITY EXCURSION TO DAMASCUS KHAN EL-HUSSEIN THE MARONITES STORY OF HENDYE TOMB OF NOAH THE DRUSES SINGULAR HEAD-DRESS THE METUALIS REN- CONTRE WITH THE SLAVES A DANGEROUS FALL PLAIN OF THE BEKAAH A MILITARY FOOL MAGNIFICENT VIEW AN ANGRY GARDENER — BIGOTRY OF THE DAMASCENES CAMP IN THE GARDEN. Beyroot (the ancient Berytus) is now the most im- portant sea-port in Syria. The harbour, however, is very indifferent, and vessels are obliged to anchor a mile from the shore. The town does not materially differ in appearance from others in Syria, except that there is a greater display of European goods, and much more sign of busy trade. The houses are very sub- stantially built, and few or no traces are left of the bombardment of 1840. The streets are tolerably well paved, but obstructed, as usual, by the stalls and baskets of the dealers in oranges, vegetables, bread, and other eatables. Some houses of a better class, apparently of recent erection, are occupied by Frank merchants. Several steam-boats, from Greece, Turkey, Egypt, and France, now touch regularly at the port, and Beyroot seems likely, if peace conti- nues, to recover some of its former prosperity. The costume of the passengers in the street is very S82 A DISAPPOINTMENT. varied : Franks^ from all parts of the Mediterranean, being mixed up with Turks, Arabs, Egyptians, and Syrians ; while Druses and Maronites from the mountains of Lebanon, Bedouins from the Desert, and traders from Damascus, are frequently met with. Mr. Dalton had fully intended to have taken his family to Smyrna, Constantinople, and Greece; but it was now the end of May, and the heat was already very trying. Quarantine must be performed on entering Turkey, and before these places could be visited, the hottest part of the year would have arrived. Prudence dictated that he should not much longer delay seeking a more temperate region. He thought it best, therefore, to be content with an excursion to Lebanon, Damascus, and Baalbec, and then to leave Syria by the first steamer for Malta or Marseilles. Mrs. Dalton, much as she had enjoyed the past, began to sigh for a little repose, and readily agreed to this arrangement. Charles and Emily did not enter so easily into their father's views. The eye is never satisfied with seeing. The life of travel and adventure in which they had been so long en- gaged had peculiar charms for their young minds, and although, perhaps, they bore present incon- veniences with less patience than their parents, yet they forgot them much sooner. They were re- minded that quiet study had been sadly interrupted since the family had quitted their floating home on the Nile, and that much patient application was needed, before their education would be completed. The disappointment soon wore off, and mth the happy elasticity of youth, they turned their thoughts towards Damascus. THE TENTS IN DANGER. 383 The next day was Sunday, and the travellers re- joiced to find themselves once more able to join in public worship. They attended the chapel attached to the American mission-house, where they heard an admirable discourse from one of the gentlemen they had met at Jerusalem. In the afternoon a heavy gale sprung up, which lasted for some hours. Their linen tenement shook fearfully in the wind, and there was some fear that it would break from its moorings, and leave the inmates without a roof to cover their heads. The vessels in the harbour, or rather roadstead, were in some danger. If any one had got loose, she must have been dashed on shore. Some large fishing-boats were thus destroyed; and one, which had brought a French traveller from Sidon, had scarcely landed him before it was broken into a hundred pieces by striking violently against the quay. On Monday, all was again bright and tranquil, and some hours were employed by the whole family in writing to England. Mr. Dalton called on Mr. Duncan, and gained some useful information for his intended trip. In the evening he accompanied his charge to the Turkish cemetery, on the other side of the town. It is an elevated spot, and commands a remarkably striking view. The highest mountain of Lebanon, although distant, was distinctly seen through the clear atmosphere. It was beautifully tinged by the rays of the setting sun, which were reflected brilliantly from the snow-capped summits. The country round Beyroot rises in the form of an amphitheatre, and was covered with verdure, among wliich the white stone houses, scattered here and 384 VISIT TO A NATIVE. there, were glittering in the sunbeams. One of those lovely pictures which, once seen, are never forgotten, greeted the eyes of our travellers. Few cities are placed in so beautiful a region as Beyroot, and the neighbouring mountains enable the inha- bitants to reach, within three or four hours, a more temperate clime during the summer heat. Almost all the Frank residents avail themselves of so great a privilege when the hot weather commences. The town itself, being shut in by hills, is not healthy, and the Daltons, accustomed as they had been to an open country and a purer air, were thankful that they were not to be long confined to their present resting place. Emily had taken some notice of a pretty little girl, whose home was near the tent, and had won her fa- vour by two or three trifling presents. Her father invited Mrs. Dalton and her daughter to enter his house, which they were glad of the opportunity of seeing. The child was mounted on a singular pair of clogs, raised at least four inches from the ground, and on being introduced to the mother, a rather pretty young woman, they found her also elevated at least seven inches above her natural height, by the same means. The appearance of mother and child was very curious, as they paddled about, with naked feet, on these awkward machines. The Avoman, being a Christian, did not veil her face, according to the usual custom, and no objection was made to Daireh's being summoned as interpreter. In reply to the inquiry, why she wore the clogs, she said they were intended to keep the feet off" the ground in cold or wet weather. But why use them now, when it was VISIT TO A NATIVE. 385 neither cold nor wet 1 She could hardly assign a reason; but said that she got used to them in the winter, and therefore continued to wear them at all times. Mrs. Dalton supposed that they were worn rather from fashion than any real use, and that pro- bably she did not like the idea of lowering her appa- rent height by relinquishing them. Her house was neat and clean, but with very little furniture; and she had a black female slave, about fourteen years old, who came up, grinning with wonder, and showing her beautiful teeth, at the sight of the white strangers. Among the upper boughs of a tree near the house, there was a large framework of wood. During the hot weather it is covered over with linen; mats and carpets are laid on it, and the whole family sleep there at night. The horses required for the expedition to Damascus were not easily procured, and when found, a price much above what Daireh had paid the previous year was demanded. The reason assigned for the additional charge was the dearness of provisions of all kinds. Mr. Dalton had noticed that they were much higher in Syria, than in Egypt, and that sometimes bread was scarcely cheaper than in England. The crops had been very scanty last autumn, and the prospects for the next harvest far from good. Much suffering on this account had been felt all over the country.'-^ On Wednesday, the family were ready at an early * It is now stated that the harvest has again failed, and that Syria is suffering all the horrors of famine, especially in the neigbbonrhood of Jerusalem. At Salted, also, several persons have died of absolute starvation. This is the more deplorable, while so many thousands of acres of the finest land in the world are left wholly uncultivated. — September, 1840. C C 386 KHAMSEEN WIND. hour for their journey; but after the tents were struck, they were detained for several hours by the neglect of the man who had engaged to provide horses: this was not pleasant, for an exceedingly hot and disagreeable wind had begun to blow. It came from the coast of Africa, and although cooled by its passage of some hundred miles across the sea, it was scarcely endurable. How trying and fearful it is to the traveller over the Great Desert of Sahara, where, loaded with clouds of sand, it threatens to bury as well as suffocate him, those only can say who have endured its attack. Mrs. Dalton, with, aching head and feverish frame, was obliged to take shelter in one of the neighbouring tents, to which she was kindly invited by the lady whose welcome visit in the Desert had been so useful. Showers of rain fell at intervals, without producing any reduction in the temperature. The feeling experienced on this occa- sion very much resembled that which is felt on pass- ing a baker's shop, just as the oven, full of hot steam- ing bread, has been opened. All those who had set out for Jerusalem with our travellers were about to sail for Europe or Smyrna, except Mr. Founder, who determined to leave nothing unseen. He asked permission to join the party; it was readily granted, and as he sat impatiently waiting his tardy muleteer, his threats of vengeance were not spared, but when the man arrived with two horses which he had to seek from a distance, his good nature prevailed as usual, and the offender escaped with the infliction of a long and energetic speech, which, al- though promising no small chastisement for the next fault, made little impression on the man, as he did COPT LIBERALITY. 387 not understand a word of it. Mr. Founder had now hired a youth, a native of Beyroot, as servant : he spoke English pretty well, and professed to have often acted as dragoman to travellers visiting Damascus, In the course of the journey he owned to Daireh that he had never been in that direction, but had been obliged to say that he had, or he would not have been engaged. Mr. Dalton did not think it wise to undeceive Mr. Founder, but he was often amused by the ingenuity of the young rascal's manufactured in- formation, in reply to his master's numerous inquiries. Bishai pleaded hard to be retained, but as he was now of no use, except to do Mustapha's work, who had no objection to such an assistant, he was dis- missed. He said that Damascus was one of the holy cities, and he felt that, as a hadjee, he ought to visit it. On being told that it was regarded as holy by Mussulmen only, and if they could have their will they would stone every Christian who entered its walls, he showed a most Catholic spirit, and intimated that his desire remained unchanged; but Mr. Dalton insisted on the present completeness of his pilgrim- age, and he reluctantly took his leave. An English lady, who had just returned from the same excursion, strongly recommended a Bedouin Sheikh, named Ishmael, as a guide and guard. He had two horses; one of them, a gentle creature, but swift enough, he declared, to keep pace with the wind, was offered for Mr. Dalton's use, while he rode the other. For the services of the three, something less than five shillings a-day was to be paid. Very soon after leaving Beyroot, the travellers began to ascend the mountains, and ere long they got c c 2 388 EXCURSION TO DAMASCUS. above the influence of the sultry, trying Khamseen wind. The pleasant effect of inhaling the pure air once more was very agreeable. Some of the people of Beyroot say that the mountains of sand to the south, which seem as if they would in time overwhelm even the town itself, are brought from the Sahara Desert by the wind. To the inquiry how it is that this part of the coast of Syria alone suffers, they can give no answer. Absurd as their supposition is, it is still a fact, that vessels sailing at a distance of thirty miles from the coast of Africa, sometimes have their decks covered by the sand from this great Desert. The ascent now began to be exceedingly steep. Although the travellers were on the high road to Damascus, which had probably been in constant use for two thousand years : it is not easy to convey an adequate idea of its rude, and even dangerous state. The horses and mules were accustomed to their task ; they climbed up the rocks, and wound their way through narrow clefts with much adroitness, although there was hardly space enough for the baggage to pass; in many parts, holes had been made in the stone by the oft-repeated footsteps of their prede- cessors, and they took care to avail themselves of the assistance which these afforded, planting their hoofs exactly in the right place. The view of Beyroot and the sea was magnificent. The highly-cultivated country Avhich surrounds the town presented a sin- gular contrast to the wild region they were travers- ing ; but even among the rocks, every available space was diligently tilled, and innumerable little patches, KHAN-EL-HUSSEIN. 389 rising in terraces, were covered \vitli corn-fields, gar- dens, and vineyards. The first night was spent at Khan-el-Hussein, where there is an extensive building for the recep- tion of travellers, and a plentiful spring of water. The khan was occupied by a large party from Damascus, on their road to Beyroot, to meet a newly-appointed governor. His arrival from Con- stantinople was daily expected, and great prepara- tions for his reception were made along the whole route. The tents were pitched near the khan, which, even if empty, the Daltons would not have entered. Although our friends rose very early the next morning, they were not in time to see anything more of the governor's escort. It had departed before daybreak, wisely accomplishing a good part of the day's journey before the sun acquired too great power. The road was even worse than that already passed, and ere long the country assumed a still wilder and more desolate character. They were now travelling along the boundary which separates the Maronites of Lebanon from the Druses; and we must interrupt the progress of our narrative for a short time, to tell our young readers something about these singular people. The northern district of Lebanon is inhabited by the Maronites, of whom there are more than one hundred and fifty thousand residing within a very circumscribed space. They are Christians, and pro- fess obedience to the Pope. The founder of the sect, from whom also they derive their name, was Mar- roun, a hermit, who lived in the fifth century. They 390 THE MARONITES. were condemned as heretics by a general council, about two hundred years after his death, and met with so much persecution that they quitted the va- rious parts of Syria over which they were spread, and took refuge in the mountains of Lebanon. Here they remained undisturbed for some centuries, and their numbers greatly increased. Soon after the final separation of the Eastern and Western churches, they were again united to the latter. A division subsequently took place, but they were once more reconciled to the See of Rome in 1445, and have ever since remained firmly attached to it. But although they pride themselves on their close adhesion to the Latin church, the Pope has been obliged to make concessions to the Maronites, which he denies to its other members. The clergy are allowed to marry, the Bible is read to the people in their native tongue, and the laity receive the sacra- ment in both kinds. They are governed by a patri- arch, several bishops, and a numerous body of clergy. The power of the patriarch is unlimited, and the authority of the bishops and priests very great. The Turkish government treats these functionaries with much respect, and is cautious to give them no offence, as they could easily raise the whole people into insurrection. The influence of the clergy ex- tends even to the administration of justice, and their discipline is very strict, all offences against morals being severely punished. It is said that nearly two hundred monasteries exist among the mountains; many of them are substantial buildings, and placed, as they frequently are, on the summit of a hill, they add very much to the picturesque aj^pearance of the STORY OF HENDYE. 391 country. The monks, as well as the secular clergy, are extremely ignorant, but their habits are simple, and they are generally free from the licentiousness so often charged upon their European brethren. There are also a few nunneries, some of which have black women among the sisterhood. Volney gives a remarkable account of a Maronite nun, named Hendye, who was the superior of a convent ninety years ago. She had gained a high reputation by rigid austerity, and was held in so great venera- tion, that she found no difficulty in raising funds sufficient to build a large convent, as well as an ad- joining monastery. The patriarch accepted the office of director, and for some time the reputation of Hendye for sanctity continued to increase, till at last she was regarded as a saint. A travelhng mer- chant arrived so late one night at the monastery, that he did not attempt to procure admittance, but went to rest under the shelter of the outer walls. He was disturbed shortly after by hearing the gates opened, and saw three women and two men come out, bearing a heavy burden. He watched their movements while they dug a hole at a little distance, in which they buried their load. Frightened by what he had witnessed, he left the place before day- light, and continued his journey to Beyroot. A mer- chant of that town had placed two of his daughters in the convent not long before, paying a large sum for their admission, and as the traveller knew they were there, he acquainted him with the mysterious proceedings of the previous night. The father had been informed that one of his daughters was ill, and he was aware also that many of the nuns had lately 392 STOKY OF HENDYE. died soon after their admission. The mortality had been ascribed to the insalubrity of the air; but his suspicions were awaiiened, and he applied at once to Prince Yousaf, who then ruled over the district. Accompanied by a body of soldiers, placed at his disposal, he forced his way into the convent, and found one of his daughters confined in a cell, and nearly dead; the body of the other was disinterred from the spot where the merchant had so providen- tially seen it deposited. The wicked Hendye was seized, as well as some of the priests. A commis- sion was sent from Rome to investigate the case, and it was discovered that the convent had been the scene of most shameful wickedness. Many nuns had been murdered, under circumstances of atrocious cruelty, to secure their property, or because they had refused to take part in Hendye's crimes. It will hardly be believed that the wretched woman escaped the punishment so justly her due. After being for some years confined in different convents, she was set at liberty through the interest of a powerful friend, and lived to the age of seventy. She died in 1802, having previously again become the object of popular veneration, and she is even to this day re- garded by many as a most holy woman. On the summit of one of the mountains of Lebanon, the Maronites j^ossess a singular monu- ment, which is walled round, and is probably part of an old aqueduct. They say it is the tomb of Noah, who requested leave to be buried here, but having sinned subsequently, God cut off a large portion of the spot, and although a space sixty feet in length was left, his body had to be doubled up for want THE TOMB OF XOAH. 393 of room. In another part is the tomb of Moses, discovered two centuries ago, by a powerful and agreeable perfume issuing from the earth. It is a cavern, and said to contain a marble slab, bearing the inscription, " Moses, the Man of God." So great was the contention for the possession of this sacred place by the Maronites, Mussulmen, and Jews, that the governor of Damascus ordered it to be closed up by a strong wall of masonry, and it remains in the same state to the present day. The Druses are a much more singular community than the Maronites. The founder of their religion was the Caliph of Cairo, in the tenth century, and seems to have been little else than a madman. After ruling for eighteen years, he was murdered by his vizier, who continued, however, to propagate his tenets. The Druses were driven, like the Maronites, into the fastnesses of Lebanon, by persecution, and have ever since continued a distinct body. The tenets they profess are shrouded in impenetrable mystery, and no researches have thrown much light on the subject. Even their books, which have occa- sionally fallen into the hands of the learned, and been translated, have very little assisted the inquiry. If they contain an}i;hing more than a series of dis- jointed and nonsensical phrases, which is doubtful, a key to their comprehension has yet to be discovered. The Druses believe in the transmigration of souls and the unity of God, but they say that the godhead was transferred into the souls of Adam, and many other patriarchs, and prophets of the Old Testa- ment, as well as into that of their founder, the Caliph Hakem. They do not attempt to make con- 394 THE DRUSES. verts, but rather systematically conceal their reli- gion, and affect to assimilate themselves to any other sect with whom they may be brought in contact. Deception, in this way, they hold to be quite justi- fiable. They say that they have many adherents in different parts of the world, even among the moun- tains of Scotland, but that they carefully conceal their principles. The Druses are much more warlike than the Maronites, and, although considerably fewer in num- ber, have been able successfully to compete with them during the late war in Lebanon. Till within a few years, both sects were under the sway of one ruler, the Emir Beschir, who resides at Deir-el- Kammar, in a magnificent palace. Some differences arose between the two powerful parties, which were secretly fostered and increased by the Turkish go- vernment, and civil war ensued. Much blood was shed, and many flourishing villages entirely de- stroyed. The whole district was in a state of anarchy, while Turkey looked with complacency on the rapid destruction of a people too powerful to be governed by its feeble hand. The jDowers of Europe at last interfered, and peace is now restored, not again, we hope, to be disturbed. Many of the vil- lages are being rebuilt, while the beautiful valleys, which were laid waste by the ravages of the soldiery, are once more in the possession of the peaceful and industrious husbandman. The Druses are simple in their habits, temperate, and chaste. They have no taste for music, and are never heard to sing. Their amusements are very few, but they are fond of sitting in groups, and in- SINGULAR HEAD-DRESS. 395 dulging in long conversations while tliey smoke. Their costume is picturesque, and that of the females very attractive, especially as their faces are not con- cealed. The married women, both of the Druses and Maronites, wear a singular ornament. It is a long hollow conical tube of metal, in shape not un- like the horn of the buffalo, which is placed on a pad on the forehead, and projects a little forward. The wealthier classes have it made of silver, or even gold ; the poorer, of copper or tin. Sometimes, a real horn of the buffalo, gilded over, is used. It is fixed to the head by bands, which are fastened be- hind, and hang down the back. Over this strange ornament is thrown a veil, which falls gracefully on the shoulders. It is said that its use frequently pro- duces a tendency to violent headaches. There can be little doubt that the custom of wearing a horn in this way is of great antiquity, and possibly some passages in the Psalms* may have reference to it. Another singular people, the Metualis, exist in considerable numbers among the mountains of Lebanon. They are schismatics from the Maho- medan religion, the principal tenets of which they, however, maintain. Like the Druses, they are divided into clans or tribes, and are equally brave and martial in their disposition. Like them also, they are very hospitable to strangers, but exceedingly careful not to defile themselves by coming into close contact with those of a different faith. When Ibrahim Pasha conquered Syria, they refused to submit to his ♦ Psalms Ixxv. 4, 5, 10 ; xcii. 10; cxlviii. 14. 396 THE METUALIS. sway, and joined the Maronites and Druses in the general insurrection of Lebanon, It is remarkable, that they expect the coming of a Messiah, who is to act as the successor of Mahommed, and rule over the whole world. We must now return to our travellers. They had not proceeded far before they were joined by two of the American missionaries they had met at Beyroot. During the heat of summer they reside at Bhamdoon, one of the highest villages of Lebanon, built on the brow of a hill, and commanding a noble view of Bey- root, the sea, and the snow-capped mountains. The missionaries enjoy in this delightful sjDot a compa- ratively temperate clime, and prosecute their pious labours among the mountaineers. One of them is a physician, and has thus peculiar facilities for gaining the respect and good will of the peoi:»le by his medical knowledge. The Daltons were very sorry that they could not spare time to visit this interesting settle- ment, to which they were kindly invited.* * The following account of the present state of the American mission in Syria is copied from a Swiss Journal: — " They have two stations ; one at Beyroot, and the other six leagues distant, in the mountains of Lebanon. There are eight missionaries, of whom six are married ; five native assistants, nine schools, and nearly three hundred scholars. Their labours are princi- pally among the Druses and Maronites. The late troubles in Lebanon in some measure arrested the progress of their work, but public service was interrupted but for one Sunday. The native colporteurs have been found very useful. The Ma- ronite patriarch, who caused the convert, Assaad Chidiak, to be put to death, burnt the Bible, and ill treated the missionaries, died miserably, in the midst of the civil war, in deplorable cir- cumstances." — Feuille religieusc du Canton de Vaud, Mo. 25, 1840. RENCONTRE WITH THE SLAVES. 397 Not long after, they overtook many of the young slaves they had parted with at Assouan. They were now on their road to Damascus, after having per- formed a journey of more than two thousand miles by water, and five hundred by land. Six months had nearly elapsed since they had quitted Dongola. They were walking over the rugged paths vnth naked feet, but they appeared to be in good spirits, and one of the boys laughed heartily when it was proposed to give him a handful of piastres, if he would run away from his master, and hide among the hills. By noon, our travellers had reached a considerable elevation, and were for a short time completely en- veloped in clouds, which prevented their seeing many yards before them. Although there was not much fertile land in the immediate \^cinity of the road in the early part of the day, they had several charming A^ews of extensive valleys lying far below, secluded among the mountains, with pretty villages scattered among them, and here and there a monastery. It would not be easy to find a lovelier or more secluded retreat, for one who wished to live away from the bustle and anxiety of an unquiet world. By the time that the highest point of the road was reached, the clouds rolled away, and for some distance the journey was continued upon a nearly level road. There was a softness and freshness in the mountain air which was very agreeable, especially to those who had just spent a few days in the sultry and relaxing climate of Beyroot. The enjoyment of the travellers was, however, interrupted by an unfortunate accident, which might have had a more serious result. Mr. 398 A DANGEROUS FALL. Dalton, taking advantage of the improved character of the path, had ridden some distance a-head, and Mr. Founder, wishing to join him, put his horse into a trot. Emily was riding by his side, and her horse suddenly quickened its pace to follow. She was un- prepared for the increased motion, and as she was sitting sideways on an Arab saddle, which has no crutch, she had no command of her seat, and she fell to the right hand, pitching on her forehead and one side of her face, with great violence. The skin was completely grazed off her cheek, and her head severely cut by a pair of blue glass spectacles she wore to guard her eyes from the glare of the sun. Her parents were greatly alarmed, especially as she was taken up almost senseless. After washing the wounds, which bled profusely, and giving her a small quantity of wine, they were, however, rejoiced to find that she had not received any more serious injury, and in a short time she was able to pursue her journey. Within a fortnight, she had lost nearly all traces of the accident ; but her parents can never recal it to mind without a feeling of deep gratitude for her mer- ciful preservation. Her mamma was provided with an English side- saddle, an almost indispensable article for the female traveller in Syria ; but it was now thought advisable to make a change in the mode of riding, both of Emily and Marshall. By means of blankets, &c., the breadth of their saddles was greatly increased; and the stirrups were much shortened. They sat in the Oriental fashion, placing their feet on each side of the horse's shoulders, much in the same way as the PLAIN OF THE BEKAAH. 399 camel is ridden. This plan was found to answer extremely well, as it much increased their comfort, as well as safety. It was necessary to travel for more than five hours after the accident. Half the time was consumed in the descent into the Valley of Bekaah, and the rest in crossing that extensive plain to the foot of Anti- Lebanon. The whole party had been much shaken by Emily's misfortune, and had rarely felt a greater need of rest. In descending, they had the whole range of Anti-Lebanon Ipng before them, in which, the snowy top of Hermon rose pre-eminent. It is eleven thousand feet above the level of the sea, and is the highest mountain in Syria : there are, indeed, very few in Switzerland that are more elevated. A great proportion of the plain of the Bekaah was also visible ; it stretched far away to the right and left, and was covered mth verdure. Several small streams, flowing from the mountains on each side, water this fertile country. It contains a few villages, but the greater part of the land is left untilled. The road across it, although now in some parts nearly impass- able, from the necessity of wading through tolerably deep streams of water, which have been allowed to change their course, and encroach on the ancient highway, must at one time have been much fre- quented. It is straight and wide, and some care was originally taken in its construction. A comparison of the Bekaah with the hill country of Lebanon suffices to show how long and how severely Syria has suffered from misgovernment. In the latter, the tiller of the soil has had to contend with serious natural disadvantages. Much of the cultivated 400 PLAIN OF THE BEKAAH. ground lies on the sides of steep declivities, and is supported by a succession of embankments, forming numerous terraces. A large portion lias originally been covered by great stones, which have been care- fully removed and built up into massive walls, dividing it into small fields; but not an available spot is neglected, and Lebanon now supports a larger population than any rural part of England of the same extent. In the Bekaah, on the contrary, vast tracts of excellent land lie fallow, which, if brought into cultivation, would provide for at least twenty times the number of its present inhabitants. Why should there be so great a difference 1 The answer is easily given. In the mountains, the hus- bandman is comparatively secure from oppression; each man can sit under his own vine and fig-tree, without dreading that he will be robbed of their produce; while in Syria, generally, there has been, till of late years, a great insecurity of property, and one of the finest and most fruitful countries in the world has languished under its weak and short- sighted rulers. The next day our travellers started early, as they had a long journey before them. Emily had slept well, and although suffering a little inconvenience from her wounds, was able to proceed. One of the valleys of Anti-Lebanon, of considerable length, was first traversed, and its pleasant and gently rising ascent agreeably contrasted with much of the pre- vious road. In the course of the morning, they met a large body of Turkish foot-soldiers, accompanied by two or three officers on horseback, on their way to Beyroot, to meet the new Pasha of Damascus. A MILITARY FOOL. 401 One of the men, dressed rather differently from the rest, and having a half-crazed look, came up to Mr. Dalton, and addressed him in Turkish, at some length, in a rapid and excited way. What he said seemed greatly to amuse his companions, who gathered round, and indulged in roars of laughter. Mr. Dalton, seeing that he was in joke, seized the first opportunity to reply by an equally rapid volley of English, and the laughter was redoubled. It may be supposed that nothing very complimentary passed on either side, but as neither party understood what was said by the other, they parted excellent friends. Daireh told his master that it is usual in the Turkish regiments to have an individual, not much unlike the court fools of ancient times, who, by his jokes and buffoonery, serves to beguile the fatigue of the men, when on a long march, and that he had just been honoured by a display of the wit and humour of one of these functionaries. Having passed through a ravine, bounded on each side by perpendicular rocks of great height and grandeur, the caravan reached the nearly dry bed of a mountain torrent. For three or four miles, the horses had to scramble among heaps of large stones that at times seemed completely to block up the way. The stream, which was very shallow, was frequently crossed, for the sake of finding a few yards of level ground on the other side, and their progress was slow and very toilsome. When about half way through, Marshall was thrown over her horse's head, as he stepped off a rock nearly two feet high, and had a narrow escape, as she fell within two or three inches of a pointed stone. Daireh DD 402 MAGNIFICENT VIEW. afterwards said, that as she lay on the ground he was afraid to go up to her, for he thought her " skull was broken into a dozen pieces." Happily, the only injury she received was a bruise on her shoulder. A long ascent followed, succeeded by a circuitous road through several small valleys, shut in by the neigh- bouring hills. Although in a high region, there was so little air that the heat of the sun was severely felt. About an hour before sunset, however, a view burst upon our travellers which amply repaid them for the toils of the day. They had gained the brow of the last hill on the road to Damascus. The magnificent plain on which it stands lay far below, and, from their commanding eminence, they could take in the whole city and many miles of the surrounding country at a glance. The Abana and Pharpar of Scripture issued from a gorge in the mountain, to the left, dividing into numerous streams when they reached the valley. They then wound their way to Damascus, and pass- ing through it, were again united in the distance. The city, with its numerous minarets and palaces glittering in the setting sun, was imbedded in a wil- derness of fruit-trees, while several large villages, spread over the plain, gave life and variety to the landscape. The whole scene justly deserves the reputation it has acquired, of being one of the finest views in the world. After passing by numerous orchards, abounding in every variety of fruit-tree, especially the damask-plum, apricot, cherry, fig, wal- nut, and apple, the travellers stopped for a few minutes in the suburbs, to consider where they would o-o. Mr. Dalton proposed that they should encamp as usual, as he had heard an indifferent report of the AN ANGRY GARDENER. 403 only hotel in the city. Strangers were formerly entertained at the Franciscan convent, but they are now referred to that establishment. Daireh was anxious to please his master, but doubted whether it would be possible to find a suitable spot, as every vacant space, except a large marsh meadow, is occu- pied by gardens or houses. They had nearly reached the gate of St. Thomas, when, seeing the entrance to an extensive garden open, Mustapha inquired whether the travellers might be allowed to pitch their tents in the inclosure, adding a promise of backsheesh before they left. The man consented to the pro- posal, and the whole party entered. While at tea, the owner of the place arrived, in a towering passion, and asked who had given permission to the intruders. After scolding his servant, and threatening him with punishment, he insisted on their instant departure. High words ensued, and after a long debate, in which the irascible Mustapha became specially vehement, the owner was told that his Avishes should be com- plied with the next morning, and not before. Mr. Dalton now thought it time to interfere, and, lea\dng the tent, he apologized for the intrusion, saying, that he should never have thought of taking possession of the ground without permission, and adding, that his daughter, who was suffering from an accident, was already in bed. The man was at last pacified, and it was mutually agreed that the tents were to be re- moved early the next morning. By daybreak, however, the man called to apologize for his previous inci\ality, which he excused on the plea of his being half intoxicated, and after many com- pliments, he begged the travellers would stay as long D D 2 404 BIGOTRY OF THE DAMASCENES. as they pleased. Mr. Dalton graciously accepted his excuse, although a little surprised at the cool way in which he referred to an excess so unusual in the East, and peace was restored. He afterwards learned that he was probably the first European who had ever ventured to sojourn in a tent so near Damascus. It is one of the most bigoted cities of the East, and till within a few years no one dared to appear in the streets in a Frank dress. Lamartine, the celebrated French poet, gives a curious account of the precau- tions he took, in 1832, to escape observation, by adopting the Turkish costume, and entering by an unfrequented gate in an obscure quarter. A short time previously, the people absolutely refused to allow the English consul-general of Syria to come within the walls, although supported by the Porte and Ibrahim Pasha, who was then at the head of twelve thousand soldiers in the garrison. Two great riots took place, from the mere rumour of the consul's approach. Times have changed, and many English- men have since visited Damascus, but they are still obliged to act with caution, and would be in great danger if they offended any of the prejudices of the inhabitants. The family did not feel sorry that they had adopted the plan of encamping ; perhaps they escaped an attack of dysentery, then prevalent in the city, and which carried off one European traveller, after a few days' illness. They were not, however, very favour- ably situated. The garden, like every other around Damascus, was profusely watered by artificial channels, and the air was not therefore in the dry and healthy state which is essential for those who sleep under no CAMP IX THE GARDEN. 405 better shelter than a tent. The extreme fertility of Damascus and its neighbourhood is owing to this ample supply of water, while its high elevation renders it much cooler than the greater part of Syria. The city abounds in public fountains, and the court- yard of every house has a pretty basin in the centre, into which water constantly flows. In this respect it offers a pleasant contrast to most SjTian towns. 406 WALK THROUGH DAMASCUS, CHAPTEK XVIII. WALK THROUGH DAMASCUS A STREET OF SHOES JEWS QUARTER — VISIT TO A JEW WAR AGAINST THE BEDOUINS THE HAOURAN MISSIONARIES AT DAMASCUS — DAMAS- CUS' MANSIONS PUBLIC BATHS BARBERS' SHOPS DER- WISHES AND SANTONS THE HORSES SEIZED PASS OF ANTI LEBANON ABANA AND PHARPAR — WISDOM OF PRO- VIDENCE. As Mrs. Dalton wished to recruit her strength after the fatigues of the journey, her husband and children left her to repose while they took a stroll through the city. They were attended by Daireh and a muleteer, a necessary escort, as the people followed them in crowds. Emily was, perhaps, the first young female they had seen in a Frank dress, and their curiosity, especially that of the women, was extreme. She had by this time got pretty well accustomed to be stared at, but the Damascenes were not content with a quiet look. Daireh was stopped continually, and eagerly questioned, and many of the females laid hold of Emily, felt her dress, and subjected her to a close examina- tion. It was all well meant, however, and the natives gave our travellers quite as much amusement as they received. Having crossed the court-yard of an extensive WALK THROUGH DAMASCUS. 407 barrack, in which also stands the government house, they entered the city, by St. Thomas's gate, and at once found themselves in a narrow and crowded street, lined with small shops. Among them the silk mercers, and dealers in comfits and pastry, shone conspicuous. Almost every person in the East, above the lower orders, dresses in silk, and a very extensive manufacture is here carried on. Shawls, turbans, and kerchiefs, are produced in immense quantities. Mrs. Dalton expected that she should have found something very rich and curious, as well as cheap, suitable for a lady's dress. To her great sur- prise, she met with nothing made entirely of silk. It was all of cotton, with a satin facing; very durable, and by no means costly, but not elegant, and too stiff and cumbrous to answer her purpose. The shawls are very gay in their colours, and made more showy by a mixture of gold or tinsel thread. Some of them have numerous passages from the Koran woven into the pattern, in legible characters. Comfits and pastry seem to be in high favour with the Damascenes, and large quantities of their excellent fruit are preserved in sugar, and sold at a cheap rate. A preparation from rice and gum arable, nearly transparent, and flavoured with rose-water, is in great esteem. It looks something like very firm calf's-foot jelly. The exportation of this confection, which bears the name of Rahatak-alcoom, to all parts of Syria, Egypt, and Turkey, forms a considerable trade. Damascus is more peculiar and Oriental in its appearance than any city in Egypt or Syria, for there is scarcely any admixture of Europeans among the inhabitants. The streets are all extremely narrow. 408 A STREET OF SHOES. and covered with matting awnings, to exclude the sun. No wheel-carriage can enter the gates, nor is there, as in Cairo, an abundance of donkeys to annoy the foot passengers. Now and then a stately Turk rides by on his splendid horse, or everybody is obliged to make way for a loaded camel; but ordi- narily the narrow pathway is only occupied by a busy multitude, of whom a large proportion are females. The women studiousl}^ conceal their faces, but they are very fond of shopping, and do not hesitate to have a long gossip with the dealers. It was curious to see them holding their veil close to the face with one hand, while they examined their purchase with the other. In the course of the morning's walk, our travellers entered a very large building, anciently a Christian church, but now occupied by the gold and silver- smiths, most of whom are Armenians. They have each their workshop), which does not occupy a sjiJace more than two yards square, and sit cross-legged at little forges fed -^Aath charcoal, with an anvil and the various instruments of their trade near at hand. They make no show, but, if any article is asked for, they are able to produce a considerable stock of jewellery from a small cabinet Avhich stands by their side. The next visit was to the shoe-bazaar, Avhich was in a perfect blaze with the innumerable red Morocco slippers exposed for sale; they are clumsy and wide, with pointed upturned toes, and are worn so large as to be easily kicked off, directly their owners are able to squat down on their beloved divans. There was also a great show of the singular yellow boots, worn by females, which are universally used throughout the jews' quarter. 409 country, and present a strange contrast to the delicate and elegant chausures of a Parisian lady. Near this bazaar is the street occupied by the manufacturers of the singular wooden clogs we have already described. They are not neatly made^ but some were highly ornamented, being inlaid with mother-of-pearl and silver. The morning s excursion was concluded by a walk through the Jews' quarter, in a distant part of the town. It does not widely differ from the rest of Damascus, except that there are fewer shops and a greater air of quiet in the narrow streets. The houses looked mean and dirty in outward appearance, but the interior of several are said to be mag-ni- ficently fitted up. The poor Jews have lately had reason enough to avoid all display in this bigoted and intolerant city. A few years ago a Capuchin monk, named Father Tomaso, who had been for several years, the sole remaining occupant of an old monastery belonging to his order, suddenly disap- peared. In a short time it was rumoured that he had been murdered by the Jews, and a violent per- secution commenced against the unhappy Israelites, which was fostered and encouraged by the Turkish authorities, who were prompted, and even invited to persevere in their inhuman proceedings, by the French consul, resident in the city. Many of them were cruelly tortured, to induce them to confess, and some died under their sufferings. The English government interfered at last, and they are again left in peace. Wliat became of the old monk has never been discovered, but there is no evidence that the Jews made away with him. 410 VISIT TO A JEW. Matters are managed in a curious way in tlie East. Before he left the Jews' quarter, Mr. Dalton remarked to Daireh that he should like to see the interior of one of the best houses. " Very well, sir," was the reply; and soon after, knocking at a shabby door, which was immediately opened by a porter, the drago- man asked whether the master was at home 1 The reply was in the affirmative, and he quickly made his appearance. He was an old and respectable looking man with a long white beard. In reply to his inquiry, as to why he was Avanted, Daireh said that his master, who had come all the way from England, did not like to leave Damascus without seeing his beautiful house, and would feel obliged by his permission to go over it. After a moment's hesitation the whole party were invited in. They entered a handsome court-yard, sur- rounded by the numerous chambers of the mansion; all the windows looked inwards, and on one side there was a large apartment open to the court, with divans placed around it. They were then taken into several rooms, handsomely fitted in the Moorish style, with a profusion of gilding, carving, and other decorations, on the walls and ceiling. It was all very ancient, and somewhat tarnished by time, but must originally have been splendid. They were then introduced to the mistress of the house, a fat old lady, who still retained some traces of her former comeliness. She was sitting cross-legged on her divan, and had two lady visitors with her. All three were smoking the Nargillah.* Some of the neighbours had by this time * The Nargillah is a pipe with a long flexible tube. It is attached to a glass vessel, half full of water, which is sometimes perfumed, and by an ingenious process the smoke is made to pass through the liquid, which cools as well as purifies it. WAR AGAIXST THE BEDOUINS. 411 heard of the Frank strangers, and soon came to look and be looked at. They were richly dressed in very striking costumes. Much attention had been paid to their hair, which hung in long plaits down the back, and was ornamented with many jewels. Emily excited their lively attention, and many inquiries were made as to the motives which had induced her father to bring her so great a distance. They appeared to give little credit to his assertion, that it was merely the love of travel, and the desire to see strange countries. The next question was, whether he knew Sir Moses Montefiore 1 He replied that he knew him only by name and reputation. " Was he not very rich ?" Mr. Dalton believed that he was. The mistress of the house added, that when he visited Damascus, to advocate the cause of his oppressed brethren, he had resided in that house. Several other unimportant inquiries were answered, and the intruders took leave. In the afternoon, the whole family again walked into the city, but did not proceed far; business was over for the day, and most of the shops closed, although it was only half-past four. As they returned, they were detained for some time by the passing of a large body of horse and foot soldiers, just starting on an expedition against the Bedouins of the Haouran. They were headed by more than fifty Bedouins of other tribes, extremely well mounted, and handsomely dressed. They all carried long spears, and as they were armed to the teeth, their appearance was ex- tremely imposing. An immense number of camels, horses, and mules, seized from the people and loaded with the soldiers' baggage and ammunition, brought 412 THE HAOURAN. up the rear; among them, six of the strongest camels were each loaded with a brass cannon, while as many more bore the carriages. The Haouran is an immense district, lying south of Damascus, and to the east of the Jordan. It is nearly free from hills, and so fertile, as to be called the granary of Damascus. When the Romans had possession of Syria, it was extensively colonized, and contained a numerous and thriving population. Many of the houses erected at that remote period are still remaining in a comparatively perfect state, and are occupied by the fellahs. The oppression of the government on the one hand, and the fre- quent ravages of the Bedouins on the other, have had the most disastrous effects on a large proportion of the country. Seventy villages, our travellers were told, had been destroyed or deserted within the last few years ; and unless some speedy change takes place, it is likely that the Haouran will become little better than a desert, the more especially as its fruitfulness depends mainly upon regular artificial irrigation. When, as was now the case, the depredations of the Bedouin are greater than usual, and the cry of the oppressed peasantry obliges the government to interfere, a feeble effort is made for their protection, and an expedition, such as was now departing, is sent against the marauders. They are driven away for a time, and the country has a little peace; but they soon return, and resume their depredations. The Bedouins in the pay of the government are hired as guides, and to assist in that guerilla warfare which alone suc- ceeds against a wild people, who never await the MISSIONARIES AT DAMASCUS. 413 attack of a regular force. It is doubtful whether the Turks gain much by employing such allies, as they lose no opportunity of plundering friend or foe during the confusion of a battle. A skirmish took place the day after the expedition left Damascus, in which the Bedouins of the Haouran had the advantage, and they, as well as those employed against them, sent many articles for sale to the bazaars, which had been plundered from the Turkish army. The quiet Ishmael told Daireh that he was sorry he had not known that the family meant to stay some days at Damascus, as he should have liked to have gone with the expedition to pick up what he could on his own account. The following day being Sunday, the Daltons attended divine service at the house of one of the missionaries sent out by the united Scotch and Irish presbyterian churches to assist in promoting the con- version of the Jews at Damascus. Two clergjTnen have been for nearly three years resident there. At first, they found easy access to the Jews ; and many not only expressed their willingness to read the New Testament and other books which were offered to them, but discovered a spirit of inquiry, which gave reason for the missionaries to hope that their endea- vours would meet with success. Very lately, how- ever, the rabbis have interfered in a very decided way, and strictly prohibited the people from holding any kind of communication with the missionaries. Their labours are for the present completely at a stand, and they are placed in the trying position of being nearly excluded from all opportunity of continuing their work. The travellers met with very kind attention from 414 Damascus' mansions. both these gentlemen, and were able to learn much from them concerning this part of the East. The power and influence of the European nations, espe- cially of England, have been too plainly shown in Syria, to admit of the Mahomedans now treating Frank residents or travellers with disrespect. They feel that they dare not do it; but in a great city like Damascus, so nearly excluded from intercourse with Europe by its situation, the feeling of bigotry and even of hatred is subdued only, but not extinguished. One of the missionaries remarked, while walking with the family through the streets, that he could hear the people cursing the " infidels" as they passed by them. Three days more were spent at Damascus, and the family had the opportunity of seeing all that was accessible and worth attention. Through their friend's kindness, they were introduced into two or three of the very handsome houses for which the city is distinguished. The exterior, as usual, was plain and even mean, but the scene was strikingly changed after passing through the shabby entrance. Each had a spacious court, with a fountain in the middle, ornamented and enlivened with orange, lemon, pome- granate, and myrtle-trees. As they were at the time in flower, the air was loaded with perfume, while the exclusion of the sun's rays and the gentle splashing of the water produced a delightful feeling of coolness and repose. There is always on one side of the court a large open apartment : it faces the north, and here the family spend most of their time during the summer. Another side of the court is generally occupied by a noble saloon, with glazed windows and PUBLIC BATHS. 415 floor of various coloured marble; in the centre is a small fountain, and tlie walls and ceiling are richly decorated. The third side is devoted to the hareem, and the fourth contains the kitchen, and other offices. The whole forms a most luxurious retreat; but no one who had not been admitted within could ever suppose, as he walked along the narrow, dull, and dirty streets, that he was so near a region of such elegance and magnificence. There are several remarkably large and fine mosques at Damascus. Many have been built by private indi- viduals, from the same motives which induce wealthy Catholics sometimes to erect churches or endow monasteries, hoping thereby to atone for the sins of the past. Christians are jealously excluded from all, but a glance into the adjoining court is permitted. One of great extent in the centre of the bazaars has its marble pavement polished to the highest degree by the naked feet of the worshippers, who are obliged to take off their slippers at the gate. Among the very peculiar characteristics of this singular city, are the bathing-houses, which are open to the streets. Numerous grave-looking Turks may be seen by the passer-by, wrapped in a sheet only, half squatting, half reclining, on a pile of cushions, either smoking their long chibooks or nargillahs, or spending their time in that drowsy, dreamy state an Eastern so much loves. They have undergone a long process of steaming, rubbing, and scrubbing, in an inner room. There they have been well soaped, and well sluiced with pails of hot water; the outer cuticle of their skin has peeled off by wholesale under the rough discipline of the attendants, who use their 416 barbers' shops. coarse towels with surprising energy. They have had every joint pulled till it has cracked, and, in a word, gone through an ordeal which no European is likely to submit to a second time; and now they are waiting till the extreme lassitude produced by the operation has passed away. When sufficiently re- freshed, they put on their clothing in the view of the public with the utmost nonchalance. The barbers' shops are numerous, and, as described in the "Arabian Nights," many centuries ago, are still the resort of the lover of news and gossip. On benches on either hand, the customers sit cross- legged, waiting their turn, while one of them, with bare and well-soaped head, is holding a small glass in his hand, and the barber is shaving him, or dexter- ously trimming his beard. There is a long street in Damascus, which is straiofht, and bears that name. It is, doubtless, that in which the apostle Paul resided after his con- version,* as there is no reason to suppose that the thoroughfares have been changed since that period. The monks pretend to point out the very house in which he lived, but our travellers did not think it worth while to search for it. The place where he was miraculously arrested on his journey is also shown. It is about a mile from the town, and near the Christian burial-ground. One of their missionary friends had lost his youngest child, after a short ill- ness, about a fortnight before, and the family accom- panied his parents to the spot. It belongs to the Armenians, and contains a low cave, in which it is * Acts, ix. 10, 11. DER WISHES AND SANTONS. 417 said St. Paul hid himself after he had escaped from the city, by being let down from the Avail. The cave is evidently an ancient tomb, and close to it are some others, with their entrances walled up; holes have been, however, made in two or three, and looking through, a few human bones were still dis- coverable. An evening was spent with one of their friends, and they did not leave till an hour after dark. His house lay in a distant part of the town, and no less than eight gates had to be passed in returning to the tents. They were all shut, thus separating the dif- ferent quarters. Such may have been the " hundred gates" of Thebes. A small fee was paid to the porters for opening them. As they are closed at sun-set, it may be supposed that the city is quiet enough at night. A number of those counterfeit saints and real vagabonds, the Derwishes or Santons, still infest this thoroughly Eastern city. Mr, Dalton, when he for- tunately happened to be alone, saw one of these fellows perfectly naked, sitting under a wall. They are regarded vnth. great reverence by the superstitious people, who never refuse them alms. Once, when he was walking with Daireh, another came up to beg in a very impudent way. The man laid hold of his arm and would not suffer him to proceed. As he was very dirty, and covered with rags, swarming with vermin, his close contact was not agreeable. He did not take the first hint to depart, and Mr. Dalton was about to use the koorbash he always carried in his hand; Daireh fortunately stopped the bloAv, or the consequences might have been serious ; E E 418 THE HORSES SEIZED. the people treat any one who insults these "holy men" with little ceremony. Before we take leave of Damascus, we must remind our young readers, that it is one of the most ancient cities now existing. The steward of Abraham was born there,* and it was the capital city of the king- dom of Syria in the times of the kings of Israel. t One of the earliest Christian churches flourished there; that which Saul went to persecute. It was the residence of the Caliphs when the Saracens had possession of Syria, and in the latter part of the fourteenth century it fell a prey to the Tartar Tamer- lane. The place where this ferocious conqueror made a pyramid of human heads, near one of the gates, is still pointed out. It is now a populous and flourish- ing city, and carries on a considerable trade with the East by means of caravans. Two of the horses were seized by the Turkish soldiers as they went to be shod; the representation of their owner, that they were engaged by an English traveller, not being listened to. Mr. Dalton's appli- cation for their liberation was also useless, till he went for the janissary of the English consul, when they were reluctantly given up. Almost every horse, mule, and camel, in the city, had been laid hold of for the service of the troops sent into the Haouran. The master of the garden came to take leave of his visitors, evidently with the expectation of receiv- ing a present. Mr. Dalton gave him two or three ghazees, which were graciously received. This man's civility had been almost as troublesome as his anger. * Genesis, xv. 2. t Isaiah, vii. 8. PASS OF ANTI-LEBANON. 419 He made the encampment his regular lounging place, but was content with the servants' attentions, who entertained him with pipes and coffee, and were nothing loath to join him in a gossip. One day he brouo-ht his wife, a Circassian, who had once been pretty. She said, with the utmost coolness, that she had been stolen when young, had been for some time the concubine of a Turkish Pacha, w^ho, when tired of her, sold her to her present husband. The gift of a pair of scissars sent her away a happy woman. Mr, Founder, Englishman-like, asked the man one morn- ing Avhat he would like to drink; he replied, some wine, and did not leave the bottle till it was nearly finished, and then Mr. F. discovered that by mistake he had given him brandy. No more was seen of him that day. The family quitted Damascus on the fifth after- noon from their arrival. Crossing a branch of the Barradan, they passed by the large village of Sala- hieh, which may be considered as a suburb of the city; then turning off to the left, they began the ascent of one of the passes of Anti-Lebanon. In less than an hour they had reached an old tomb on the brow of the mountain, from whence their last and noblest view of this charming region was taken. Here they were detained for a short time by Mus- tapha being absent. He had lingered behind the party, and in hastening after it, his horse threw him and run away. When it was caught, a cloak strapped behind the saddle had been stolen, and he did not recover it till he had made a liberal present to the man in whose possession he found the horse. Shortly after leaving the tomb, the party entered a ee2 420 ABANA AND PHARPAR. charming valley, and travelled for several miles close to the banks of the rapid Barradan. It is this river which; issuing from the snowy heights of Anti- Lebanon, receives the tribute of numerous mountain torrents, and, flowing into the plain of Damascus, divides into two principal streams, which once, doubt- less, bore the name of Abana and Pharpar. When it is considered how much the city, its lovely sub- urbs, and a vast tract of the neighbouring country, owes to these rivers, we cannot feel surprised that the proud Naaman should account them " better than all the waters of Israel."* About thirty miles from Damascus, the Barradan flows into an extensive marsh, called Bahr-el-Marj (Lake of the Meadows), and is there either evaporated by the heat of the sun or absorbed by the soil, for its course is ended. The next day's route still lay by the banks of the river; in some parts the scenery is very wild, but exceedingly beautiful. The stream, considerably diminished in size, dashes along with great fury. In one place, it descends over a considerable height, and forms a striking waterfall; farther on, immense rocks bound it on either side, and the pathway cut through them sometimes overhangs the torrent. There are some remains of tombs excavated in one of them, which can only be reached by being lowered from above. Difficult as they are of access, they have been all opened and rifled. After passing through Zebdini, one of the prettiest and most English looking villages in Syria, sur- rounded as it is by well cultivated fields enclosed by * 2 Kings, V. 12. WISDOM OF PROVIDENCE. 421 lofty hedges, the travellers encamped in a pleasant valley, quite shut in by the neighbouring mountains. While dinner was preparing, Charles and Emily took a walk, and brought back with them a tolerably large tortoise. Under its belly, and on the upper part of its short legs, were attached a number of a parasitical insect, the size of a small pea, but nearly flat. They offered a remarkable example of the admirable manner in which every creature is adapted by an all- wise Creator for the situation in which it is placed. On attempting to remove them, it was found that they were able to hold so fast to the hard scales of the creature that it required a force equal to several pounds weight to disengage them. As the tortoise crawls along the stony ground, and burrows in the earth, they would be in frequent danger of losing their means of support, but for this capability of adhesion. 422 BAALBEC. CHAPTER XIX. BAALBEC CEDARS OF LEBANON INVASION OF THE NATIVES ENORMOUS SIONES — ROMAN REMAINS SARACENIC ADDI- TIONS TEMPLE OF THE SUN DESTRUCTIVE EARTHQUAKE SYRIAN NOSE JEWELS RUINED MOSQUE QUARTERING ON A BISHOP LAST NIGHT IN THE TENT STORY OF BUSH- NELL — AMERICAN PERSEVERANCE ADIEU TO THE EAST QUARANTINE PERFORMED ANNIVERSARY OF THE PLAGUE THE PRIEST AND THE ANGEL CONCLUSION, The next day's ride was very pleasant: after as- cending another high mountain of Anti-Lebanon, and riding for some miles almost on the summit of its lofty ridge, a very extensive view of the valley of the Bekaah was gained, and the remarkable ruins of Baalbec lay at their feet. Opposite, rose the most elevated part of Lebanon, covered with snow. By two o'clock, the Daltons had descended into the plain, and pitched their tents close under the walls of the magnificent Temple of the Sun, which still remains a wonderful monument of the ancient glories of Baalbec. Here they stayed for four days. Mrs. Dalton had not been well, and there was some reason to dread another attack of the same complaint which had CEDARS OF LEBANON. 423 arrested her journey through the Desert, It was a great disappointment to all the party not to visit the glorious cedars that yet flourish on Lebanon, but they found on inquiry, that the snow was still too deep to render the attempt prudent, even if it were practi- cable, and with an invalid among them it was out of the question. Mr. Founder, however, was determined to see the cedars, and took his leave of the family the following morning. He succeeded in crossing the mountain, but had to climb up its steep sides through the snow, for some miles. Part of the way, it would not have been possible to have ridden on horseback. Before starting, he sent his servant into Baalbec to buy some bread, having omitted to bring a proper supply from Damascus. The man soon returned with a number of thin, tough, round cakes, about twice the size of a dinner-plate, and not much thicker. They looked like cold and dirty pancakes. The worthy English- man's annoyance on seeing them was excessive. " Do you call this bread ?" said he ; " how can I eat such things as these, I should like to know ?" crumpling up one of them in his hands at the same time, as if it had been a piece of wash-leather. Nothing better could be had, and for the next three days he was doomed to feed on them. The cedars were visited by Lord Lindsay, in the month of June, and they are rarely accessible before that time of the year. He states that there is a group nearly three quarters of a mile in circumfer- ence, containing three or four hundred trees. Of them, twelve only have any claim to be considered as part of the ancient forest of Lebanon. It is probable 424 CEDARS OF LEBANON. that the youngest trees are not less than two centuries old, while some, perhaps, are six or eight. It is con- jectured, that the twelve patriarchs may have grown there for more than two thousand years. They are not remarkably tall, none exceeding fifty feet in height, but the girth of their trunks is enormous; one of them is sixty-three feet in circumference. There is a small convent of Maronite monks near the cedars, and every year they celel)rate mass on a stone altar built among them. Not only are the trees held in the utmost veneration by all the Chris- tian sects in Syria, but the Arabs believe that an evil fate would befal any one who did them an injury. They call them saints, and a rivulet which springs out of the mountain, at no great distance, bears the name of the Holy River. It is remarkable that the cedar is to be found in this part of Lebanon only, and that it grows at an elevation much above all ordinary vegetation. The air is quite perfumed with their odour ; that " smell of Lebanon" so celebrated by the pen of inspiration. Although the family were prevented from seeing these glorious trees, they were not sorry to have the opportunity of quietly and fully examining the ruins of Baalbec. For the first two days they had, indeed, but little peace. The curiosity of the Damascenes had been troublesome enough, but it was nothing to that ■ displayed by the people of Baalbac. They crowded round the tent in large numbers: many women brought their children, and squatting down at a little distance, remained for several hours steadfastly staring, and lost in wonder. On the second day, one better dressed than the rest, and who represented herself to be one INVASION OF THE NATIVES. 42 J of the governor's wives, requested admittance into the tent. She was allowed to come in, with the stipula- tion that she was to be alone. But no sooner had she passed the entrance, than at least twenty women followed. Mrs. Dalton was lying on one of the beds, and was fairly overwhelmed by the unceremonious visitors. The principal female said that she wished to take off her veil, but that the Frank gentleman must first leave, and she hoped he would do so imme- diately. As his remaining was likely to send her away the sooner, he declined her request, and before long, she took her departure ; Daireh driving the rest of the women after her. Tired of the annoyance, the travellers changed the position of the encampment the next day, pitching the tents in a snug corner, on the opposite or north side of the ruins, where a fine stream of water formed a kind of natural barrier. It was also a much cooler situation, as the towering- walls overshadowed the ground. There are in Baalbec the remains of three different and widely distant ages. The earliest part is a very extensive platform, which rises boldly above the sur- rounding plain. Part of it is evidently of much more ancient construction than the rest, and contains stones of enormous magnitude. Many are from twenty to thirty feet in length; and there are three lying side by side in the west wall so large, that early travellers were afraid to mention their dimensions. One is sixty-seven feet long, fourteen feet broad, and nine feet thick; the other two are not much less, and they are so closely laid together, that it would be difficult to pass a knife between them. They weigh about eight hundred and fifty tons each, and are elevated at 426 ENORMOUS STONES. least thirty feet from the foundation. In the quarry from whence they were taken, and which is more than a mile distant, another block of still larger dimensions, and computed to weigh 1135 tons, lies nearly pre- pared for removal. They are supposed to be the largest masses ever transported by the hand of man. Much inquiry has taken place as to how they could be brought from the quarry and elevated to their present position, at a period when it is considered that the mechanical arts were in their infancy. The most probable conjecture is, that they were moved on wooden rollers along an inclined plane, artificially constructed of earth, to the place destined to receive them. Every stone at Baalbec has numerous holes in the sides ; they are square, an inch, or rather more, in diameter, and about three inches deep. They may have been intended to hold metal clamps, to which ropes were attached, to drag the gigantic masses along. The most ancient part of the platform has been ascribed to Solomon, and with much reason. It is said that he built a house in the forest of Lebanon, and that the foundation was of costly stones, even great stones, and so on the outside towards the great court."' It is said, also, that he built Baalath, and the context leads one to suj^pose that this city was situated in Lebanon.t Several of the stones are bevilled at the edges in the same way as those in the lower courses of the wall round Mount Moriah, at Jerusalem, already described. Probably the plat- form was in a very dilapidated state when the Eomans * 1 Kings, vii. 2, 10, 9. + 2 Chrou. viii. 6 ROMAN REMAINS. 427 began their work, and Mr. Dalton thought he could distinguish the additions they made in restoring it. They also constructed the arched galleries and cham- bers that still exist underground ; they are of great extent and in perfect condition, but it is difficult to conjecture their use. They also built the magnifi- cent Temple of the Sun : it is supposed to have been raised about the middle of the second century of the Christian era. Soon after, a temple of much larger mao-nitude was commenced, to which was attached a noble quadrangular court, three hundred and fifty feet wide, as well as an hexagonal court of smaller dimensions. It is doubtful whether any progress in the second temple was made beyond the erection of nine magni- ficent columns and the preparation of the bases for several more. Had the whole design been carried out, it would have been one of the grandest works of the Romans. On the east was a very broad flight of steps, of which scarcely a vestige can be discovered; it led into a portico one hundred and forty feet wide, with a square pavilion at each end still remaining in a tolerably perfect condition ; from thence, the hexa- gonal court was entered : it leads to the great court, which is flanked on each side by seven chambers, or recesses, most splendidly decorated with sculptured niches, friezes, and cornices. Some of the stones belonging to the cornices have fallen down — they each weigh several tons. Probably none of the niches ever received the statues for which they were intended; but if this court had been completed, the effect would have been surprisingly grand. Antiquaries have not been able to decide for what purpose the side chambers 428 SAKACENIC ADDITIONS. were intended, but perhajDs they were meant as shrines for the inferior deities. Beyond the court rise the columns we have already mentioned; six only are now standing, and the other three lie in mighty frag- ments at their feet. They are nearly twenty-two feet in circumference, and the shafts are fifty-eight feet high. The architrave, frieze, and cornice, add four- teen feet to their height; and with the bases and pediment, the whole rise one hundred and twenty feet above the ground. It is impossible to convey an adequate idea of the beauty and grandeur of this wonderful fragment of architecture. In the seventh century, the Saracens, under the Caliph Omar, took possession of Baalbec, after a long siege, and converted the site of the Temple and its adjoining courts into a vast fortress. They built lofty walls around the platform, making use of many of the blocks of stone prepared for the Temple. In the wall may be seen fragments of cornices, bases, and portions of the shafts of columns. They also erected towers at the angles ; one, still remaining in perfect order, contains some arched chambers of great extent ; their additions were made with a reckless disregard to the beautiful work of their predecessors, but must have cost immense labour. The Temple of the Sun lies to the south of the great columns, and is regarded as one of the most magnificent ruins in the world. It was surrounded by thirty-six columns, not greatly inferior in size to those of the large temple.. The Saracens filled up the space between the columns of the portico with masonry, and converted the building into a strong- hold. The interior is entered by a small door, and TEMPLE OF THE SUN. 429 then a view of the great portal of the temple is gained. It is profusely embellished, and unrivalled for its grandeur and perfect beauty. The same pro- digality of ornament distinguishes the interior; but on close examination, it is seen that the decoration, in some parts, has never been completed. When the Saracens constructed their fortress, they were at great pains to deface every part of the sculp- ture which had any reference to heathen worship, and have destroyed numerous busts in bas-relief that filled the panels on the roof of the corridor, between the exterior walls and the columns ; they may also have removed the statues placed in the niches beside the Temple, but perhaps they were never filled. This mighty work was commenced after the light of Christianity began to dispel the darkness of heathen idolatry. Probably before it could be fully prepared for the worship of the Sun, for which it was designed, paganism sunk in Baalbec never to rise again. There is reason to believe that the whole remained pretty much in the same state as it was left by the Saracens, till a great earthquake, in a.d. IToO, re- duced it to its present dilapidated condition. Sculp- tured blocks and mighty columns lie scattered in every direction : huge stones were shaken from their places, and hang half over the lofty walls, as if just ready to fall. The interior of the Temple of the Sun, and the spacious courts of the great Temple, are covered with ruins. They lie there as if left as monu- ments of the Almighty's vengeance against idolatry. The man of taste, as he wanders among these mar- vellous edifices, may deplore their destruction, but the Christian, while he participates in his feelings, 430 DESTRUCTIVE EARTHQUAKE. will rejoice that the truth has made him free, and that he is not the slave of that blind superstition which lavished so much skill, labour, and wealth on the worship of idols. The earthquake shook the keystone of the great portal, and lowered it some feet. It now hangs much lower than the blocks on each side, and would fall after the least concussion. It seems, indeed, as if it would drop down while it is looked at, being held up by the lateral pressure only. By creeping through a small hole near the side, and ascending a narrow staircase, Mr. Dalton and Charles were able to mount to the top, and even to stand on the appa- rently falling stone. They walked also for a short distance along the top of the Temple walls, and examined more closely the beautiful sculpture of the upper part of the building. The stone employed is quite as hard as marble : it required great force to break off a few small fragments of the lighter parts of the ornaments from some of the fallen fragments. The labour of producing an infinity of decoration, in such materials, must have been incalculable. When they descended, about a dozen women, who had followed them into the Temple, crept through the hole after the travellers' example. The people of Baalbec are firm believers in the power of the Franks to discover hidden treasure, and perhaps they thought that they might share in the spoil. No sooner had they disappeared than Charles moved some blocks of stone, and speedily closed up the entrance. They screamed lustily on finding themselves prisoners. He did not keep them long confined, and when they SYRIAN NOSE JEWELS. 431 were set at liberty they seemed to enjoy the joke as much as he did. One morning, Emily had begun to take a sketch of part of the ruins. She was, however, speedily surrounded by a number of the people, and stopped in her work. As usual, they indulged their curiosity in a very deliberate way. The women quietly seated themselves in a group before her, and began appa- rently to criticise her very minutely. x\fter a time, Mr. Dalton, using her pencil and paper, pretended to draw the portrait of one of the most forward. It drove her away in a fright, and she was followed by several others; but another, less superstitious than the rest, willingly offered herself for a sitting. They all wore a singular kind of ornament. On one side of the nose a hole was pierced, through which went a stout short tube, having a gold stud at the top. In the tube was fixed a piece of thread, by which it was securely fastened in its place. They had also heavy silver bracelets, and the usual head-fillet of small cones. Mr. Dalton purchased one of the nose jewels and a silver ring, and at last managed to dismiss the whole company by a distribution of the contents of Emily's pincushion among the women. The city of Baalbec was once of considerable im- portance, but has long fallen into decay. The earth- quake laid the greater part in ruins, which still lie undisturbed. Whole streets are tenantless, and at present it does not contain more than two hundred inhabitants. Near it is a very extensive hospital, built by Ibrahim Pacha, for the soldiery, during his short possession of the country. It is only one story 432 RUINED MOSQUE. high, and has a flat roof, large enough to play a game of cricket on. Being formed of earth, a foot thick, in the Syrian fashion, it was covered with vegetation, on which some sheep were quietly feeding. There is a small octagon temple near the town, of great beauty, but so shaken by the earthquake, that scarcely a stone remains undisturbed; it looks as if one vigorous push would tumble it to the ground. Not far from it stands the dilapidated walls of a great mosque, still used as a place of prayer, although the Christian is no longer forbidden to enter the sacred precincts. The roof is entirely gone; but several marble columns, borrowed from heathen temples, are still standing in the interior. Two or three men were eng-ao-ed in their evenino: devotions as the Daltons wandered through the desolate, but still magnificent edifice. May we hope that the time will soon come when ruined mosques will be, like the great temples of the heathens, regarded as monu- ments of bygone error and superstition. A Christian bishop, with a very limited flock, still resides in Baalbec; his house is little better than those of the neighbouring fellahs. A French adven- turer, accompanied by forty youths, whom he has taught to sing in chorus, has lately been travelling through the East. He professes to collect funds for some philanthropic object in Europe, and has levied contributions on most of the Pachas and other wealthy individuals in Egypt and Syria. When he came to Baalbec, he quartered his troop on the poor bishop, who fed them for a few days. During the time his company sung mass, more than once, in the little Christian church. When he took his leave, the QUARTERING ON A BISHOP. 433 bishop expected to be reimbursed for his outlay. The man only thanked him for his hospitality, saying that he could not but notice his deep poverty, and therefore he should decline accepting any pay- ment for the masses his people had sung. It was now time to return to Lebanon. The first day's journey lay along the noble plain of the Bekaah, for several hours. During the morning, a great storm broke over the range of Anti-Lebanon; the mountains were shrouded in gloom, and torrents of rain fell. Our travellers were at the same time oppressed by the heat of a brilliant sun. It was singular to witness one side of the valley all darkness and tempest, and the other gay and smiling. They considered their narrow escape from "the pitiless pelting of the storm" very fortunate, as it would not have been easy to preserve the bedding and lug- gage from the drenching of a Syrian rain. They had now been nearly five months with scarcely a shower, and for two months had dwelt in tents, without suffiering any inconvenience on that account. The mountains of Lebanon were entered by the same road they had passed through on their way to Damas- cus, and after a very long ascent, they encamped at Khewel-Meryat. It was the last night the family spent under their frail but pleasant tabernacle, and as they saw it taken down in the morning, a feeling of melancholy came over the minds of more than one of the party. When Emily expressed her regret in no very measured terms, her mamma reminded her that the hour was not far distant when she, in common with all living, would be called on to quit " the earthly house of this F F 434 LAST NIGHT IN THE TENT. tabernacle;" how important then, was it for her to have a well-grounded hope that she possessed a house not made with hands, eternal in the heavens. By two o'clock the next day, they all reached Beyroot in safety, after a descent still more difficult and dangerous than the ascent. They took an early lunch on one of the heights, and enjoyed, for the last time, the glorious view of the mountains, the plain, the town, and the lovely Mediterranean. Then Daireh rode forward and secured lodgings at Tur- quino's hotel, not far from their old encamping ground. It was now time to think of taking leave of Syria, and returning to Europe. Our travellers had accom- plished nearly all they intended, when they first decided on visiting the East. It was not without reluctance that they gave up Turkey and Greece; but the year was so far advanced, that the heat was occasionally severely felt. Their undaunted fellow- traveller, Mr. Founder, was not so easily deterred from proceeding. He met with the captain of a small vessel about to sail for Smyrna, and agreed to take a passage in his ship, intending to proceed from thence to Constantinople. Mr. Dalton had doubts of the prudence of his plan, and remonstrated with him on the subject; but without success, for Mr. Founder was one of those men who are not to be turned from their purpose by trifles. His success in life was probably owing to this decision of character, without which, no man achieves any great or good work. A few years ago, an American, who very much resembled Mr. Founder in his " pursuit of knowledge STORY OF BUSHNELL. 435 under difficulties," made his appearauce at Beyroot. His name was Bushnell; he was the son of a small farmer in one of the Western states. When about twenty years old, he expressed an ardent desire to travel, and at last overcame his father s reluctance to part with him. The old man having given his con- sent, put five hundred dollars into his hands, nearly all the savings of many years of hard labour, and Bushnell set out on his adventures. Soon after he arrived at New York, he had the misfortune to break his leg, and was laid up for several weeks. When he had recovered, the old man sent him fifty dollars more, to pay the expenses necessarily incurred by the accident. Having heard that the celebrated American statesman, Mr. Webster, was about to \^sit Europe he called on him, and expressed his hope that he might see him in England. Mr. W. having heard his story, gave him, as might be expected, but a cold reception, and prudently advised him to go back to his farm. In a few days after, however, he took his place in the steerage of a vessel, and in due course reached London. Having engaged a cheap lodging, he industriously went to work to see everything worth notice, gaining access to places which an Englishman of his rank could never think of entering. He lost nothing for want of asking, and the rough, but frank and good-humoured pertinacity of the backwoodsman was often successful, when a more modest and com- mon-place application would have failed. Wishing, for example, to witness a debate in the House of Commons, he planted himself in the lobby, and asked the first gentleman he saw whether he was a member. On receiving a reply in the affirmative, he told his F f2 436 AMERICAN PERSEVERANCE. oft-repeated story, and was soon admitted into the gallery. His entrance to the House of Lords was not so easily managed : some days were spent in knocking at noblemen's doors, and begging the ser- vants to ask their master for a ticket. He met with some rough repulses, but one porter, who was amused by his manner, was persuaded to befriend him. By such perseverance, he ssl\7 all he desired, and then started for the Continent. How he ' got along' with- out knowing any language but his own is a mystery, but at last he arrived in Malta. There, his singularity of appearance and manner attracted the notice of a gentleman, who encouraged him to persevere, and assisted him in securing a cheap passage to Alexan- dria. By some means or other, he reached Cairo, which he had intended to be the limit of his wander- ings ; but he now heard of the Nile and the wonders of Upper Egypt, for the first time, and determined not to leave the country till he had penetrated into the interior. Luckily, he met with two English gen- tlemen who had engaged a boat ; they were struck wdth his enterprise, and kindly gave him a passage. He carried his own frugal store of provisions with him, and slept on the deck. The more his curiosity was gratified, the more insatiable did it become. On his return to Cairo, he went back to Alexandria, and sailed as a deck passenger to Beyroot. Here he met with some of his own countrymen, to whom he announced his intention of making a solitary pedes- trian tour through Palestine. They told him it would be an act of madness to attempt it, and with difficulty persuaded him to engage a trusty attendant, a native of the country, and two horses. He then ADIEU TO THE EAST. 437 set out on his journey. Two days after, the man returned with the horses, saying, as was doubtless the ease, that Bushnell had dismissed him, preferring to travel alone and on foot, principally, it is supposed, to save expense. His bag of dollars was reduced to two hundred when he started. Here ends the story of Bushnell ; he was never heard of afterwards, and was -svithout doubt robbed and murdered soon after his guide left him. He, poor fellow, was ignorant of the state of the East, and gave but little heed to the warnings he had received at Beyroot. Three days after, the travellers embarked on a French steamer bound for Marseilles. It touched at Alexandria, where they parted with Daireh and Mus- tapha, who, after performing quarantine, intended to return to their homes at Cairo. It was not without reoTct that Mr. Dalton and his family took leave of these faithful servants, on whose care and attention they had been so dependent for their comfort, and even safety, during many months. Previous to leaving Syria, Mr. Dalton disposed of his " furniture and other effects," as he had to give up house, or rather tent keeping. The price he got for them was widely different from that paid, as might be expected ; but his whole expenses while in the East were not greater than if he had remained in Europe, although he had often a dozen people, and as many camels or horses, in his employ. There were but few passengers in the vessel, which belonged to the French government, and was elegantly fitted up. Two days were spent in the harbour of Alexandria, and one at Malta, but no one but those bound to the port was permitted to land. At the 438 QUARANTINE PERFORMED. end of the twelfth day, " Le Nil" anchored in Mar- seilles, after a quick and very agreeable voyage. In its course, it passed very near the coast of Tripoli, the bay of Tunis, and the island of Sardinia. The rate at which the vessel went (going 1840 miles in 201 hours) amusingly contrasted with the slow movement of the Eastern caravan. On landing, our friends had to pay the inevitable penalty enforced on every traveller who comes from the East, an imprisonment for twelve days in quaran- tine.* They were, however, provided with very tolerable apartments, and had their table well supplied by the restaurateur of the Lazaretto. The regula- tions observed during quarantine were rather annoy- ing, but not so vexatious as they are often represented. One ceremony, the fumigation of the passengers, was absurd enough; twice during the time of confinement a man rushed in and out of every chamber, holding a pan of flaming sulphur. It would not be easy to show that any other effect resulted from the operation than offence to the nose, and injury to the eyes of the inmates, for the next hour. It is not probable that quarantine will be much longer maintained in the European ports. The opinion that it is of little service, except when the plague is actually raging in the East, is gradually gaining ground, but the Marseillaise will be slow to consent to its abolition. About one hundred and twenty-five years ago, the city lost fifty thousand inhabitants by a terrible plague, and its memory is kept fresh in the public mind by a series of large * Eediiced to three days in 1847. ANNIVERSARY OF THE PLAGUE. 439 paintings, hung up in the Town-hall, representing all its horrible calamities with minute but disgusting exactness. The anniversary of the day when the town was freed from the fearful scourge, was for many years celebrated by a grand fete. In the course of time it was discontinued; but when the cholera made its appearance a few years ago, and committed great ravages, the fete was revived with additional solem- nity. Every day, for a week, the houses are deco- rated, and long processions parade through the streets. The children are fancifully dressed, altars are erected at short intervals, and mass is performed by numerous priests. The travellers were liberated just in time to witness part of these ceremonies, which were very imposing. Marseilles is a prosperous, bustling, and crowded city, but being so far south, and shut in by neigh- bouring hills, it is very close and hot. The harbour is crowded with shipping, riding in an absolutely fetid water, which perfumes the whole town, and must render it unhealthy. There is no tide in the Mediterranean, and consequently the contents of the stagnant pool are never changed; it is so foul that it is said to poison any one who falls into it. While the Daltons were there, a sad catastrophe occurred within sight of the windows of their hotel. A large merchant vessel caught fire, and was with great diffi- culty detached from its moorings, towed into the centre of the harbour, and sunk by firing cannon balls into the hull. The captain's son remained on the deck too long; it gave way under him, and he sunk into the burning hold. Had there been the least wind at the time, it is doubtful whether any of 440 THE PRIEST AND THE ANGEL. the shipping could have been saved, so closely were the vessels packed together. It was ao-reeable once more to return to civilized o life, and all the comforts and conveniences of a large European city. The children gave Emily great pleasure; they appeared to much advantage as com- pared with their poor little brethren of Egypt and Syria, especially as they were decked in all their little finery to do honour to the fete. Some of their cos- tumes were droll enough. She saw a little priest in full canonicals, not more than five years old, leave the ranks of the procession, hand in hand with an angel, in a pink tunic and blue gauze wings, to cheapen some sugar-plums at a neighbouring stall. From Marseilles the family proceeded to Avignon, the residence of the Popes for some centuries, where still remains their palace, the chambers of the Inqui- sition, with some of the instruments of torture; and the horrible subterraneous caverns where the victims were lowered to perish. From thence they went to Lyons, the Manchester of France, and the next city in importance to Paris. It has attained a melancholy celebrity from the wholesale murders committed here during the first French revolution. The guillotine did not do its horrible work fast enough, and large numbers of victims of both sexes, and all ages, were confined in the holds of vessels, the hatchway fastened down, and a hole made in the bottom, so that they all perished together. After a short stay at Lyons, the travellers jour- neyed to Geneva, where they decided on remaining a few weeks; and here we will take our leave of the Daltons, with the hope that such of our young CONCLUSION. 441 friends who have followed them thus far, have not felt quite so weary of their long journey, as they sometimes did. Some months have elapsed since their return to Europe, and they have had time to reflect on their adventures. They sometimes regret that they left so much unseen, and still more deplore that they occa- sionally looked coldly on scenes of such surpassing in- terest. Much of the fatigue and anxiety they endured is now comparatively forgotten, while that which was agreeable and interesting is vividly impressed on their memory. Mrs. Dalton has thoroughly enjoyed the repose and quiet of Geneva after all her toil, and she and her husband often refer with grati- tude to the preservation of themselves and their children in their long wanderings over ground so little frequented by English families. Charles and Emily think little of past difficulties, and would not require much persuasion to prepare again to ascend the Nile, or to plunge into the Desert, and, like the patriarchs of old, be once more dwellers in tents. Their father, when they indulge in such wishes, talks gravely to them of their present advantages, but it must be owned that there are times when he wishes that he himself may, at some future period, again find himself a traveller by "The Boat and the Caravan." THE END. Savill & Edwards, Printers, 4, Chandos-street, Covcnt garden.