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 LIFE AND LETTERS 
 
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 WHO WAS THE 
 
 PIONEER MISSIONARY 
 
 jK-i^'evoeiaie (SvefoiMiiecl ©liui^c'li, SoAiili 
 
 AND SERVED NEARLY SEVEN YEARS. 
 
 COMPILED BY 
 
 f^tju. '^. ©. <icbaoAA>aAK a. ^%. 
 
 LOUISVILLE, GA. 
 1882.
 
 Printed by 
 
 Myers, Shinkle & Co., 145 Wood Street, 
 
 Pittsburgh, Pa.
 
 INDEX. G'ZylanZ, 
 
 Preface, 5 
 
 Chapter I. — Early Life ; School Days, .... 7 
 
 Chapter II. — Conversion ; Life as a Teacher, . . .19 
 
 Chapter III. — Becomes a Missionary, .... 33 
 
 Chapter IV. — The Voyage, 43 
 
 Chapter V. — Across the Continent, 62 
 
 Chapter VI. — Over the Mediterranean, 70 
 
 Chapter VII. — Arrival at Alexandria ; First Impression.s, 82 
 Chapter VIII. — Kamle ; Mission Sanitarium, . . . 102 
 
 Chapter IX. — Arabic Language, 107 
 
 Chapter X. — Cairo and its Environs, 114 
 
 Chapter XL — Asyoot and its Schools, .... 128 
 
 Chapter XII. — Dore's Gallery ; London, .... 135 
 
 Chapter XIII. — Life in Mansoora, 140 
 
 Chapter XIV. — Ascent of the Great Pyramid, . . . 152 
 Chapter XV. — Theory of Pyramidal Construction, . . 159 
 Chapter XVL— The Coliseum ; St. Peter's, . . . .174 
 Chapter XVII. — Mrs. Giffen's Marriage, .... 183 
 Chapter XVIII.—" Banner Girl"; Turkish Harem, .. .187 
 Chapter XIX. — Commencement Day at Asyoot, . . 194 
 
 Chapter XX. — Eastern Customs and Manners, . . . 203 
 Chapter XXI. — Letter to Ladies' Benevolent Society, . 212 
 
 Chapter XXII. — Ahmed's Conversion, 216 
 
 Chapter XXIII. — Pleat, its intensity ; Ophtlialmia, . . 236 
 Chapter XXIV. — Her Father's Death ; Lulu's Sickness, . 247 
 Chapter XXV. — Asyoot College negotiations ; Present pros- 
 pects, 250 
 
 Chapter XXVI. — Extreme Illness ; -lourney to Italy ; Pom- 
 peii ; Return to Egypt, 257 
 
 Chapter XXVII. — Death; Burial; Resting-place; Summary 
 
 of cbaracter, a.s a Woman, Wife, Mother, and Missionary, 277 
 Sonnets, 293 

 
 PREFACE. 
 
 MANY of the letters Avhich have found a place in this 
 volume first appeared in the Associate Reformed 
 Presbyterian, yet many others will be found which have 
 not heretofore been submitted to the public. 
 
 The principal difficulty encountered in the preparation 
 of this volume was that of selection and condensation. 
 The published letters alone, of Mrs. Giffen's would have 
 made half-a-dozen volumes the size of this. In some of the 
 chapters the contents are made up of selections from half 
 a score of letters, written at as many different times. In 
 itself this was not desirable, but the limits of the present 
 work demanded it. For this reason many letters of as 
 great merit, and just as deserving of perpetuity as any 
 herein contained, have been omitted. 
 
 It is greatly to be regretted that Mrs. Giffen kejjt no diary. 
 In such a biograjihy as this, leaves from the diary usually 
 fill no unimportant part and are» of absorbing interest. 
 Deservedly so. But if the information to be gained from 
 the pages of a diary could be dispensed with in any case, 
 Ave think the j^resent a case in point. Her letters are so 
 frank and unreserved in their style, and so clearly mirror 
 her every thought and feeling, that the Avant of a diary Avill 
 not be A'erv sensil^lv felt.
 
 b PREFACE. 
 
 In assigning the writer the preparation of this Memoir, 
 the leaders of the church desired thereby to stimulate and 
 perpetuate in the church the spirit of missions, so signally 
 illustrated in Mrs. Giffen. Perhaps it was also their fond 
 hope that Mrs. Giffen's mantle might fall upon the shoul- 
 ders of some of the living. 
 
 Louisville, Ga., 
 
 April 2Zrd, 1882.
 
 LIFE AND LETTERS 
 
 OP 
 
 Mrs. Mary Galloway Giffek. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 BIRTH AND CHILDHOOD — DEVELOPMENT OF YOUTHFUL 
 CHARACTER — SCHOOL DAYS — AMBITION AS A PUPIL — 
 GRADUATION. 
 
 MRS. Mary Galloway Giffen was born in Newberry 
 county, S. C, December the 8th, 1842. She was the sec- 
 ond daughter of Rev. Jonathan and Mrs. Martha Sjieer Gal- 
 loway. At the time of her birth her father was pastor of all 
 the Associate Reformed churches in the county of Newberry, 
 and so remained for fifteen years. In consequence of the 
 failure of his health he gave up his pastoral charge. Lov- 
 ing his work as he did, with all his heart and soul, his forced 
 retirement from the active work of the ministry brought 
 him many a heart pang. The rest of his life he devoted 
 to the education and the religious training of his children. 
 He lived long enough to see them all complete their edu- 
 cation and become with him members of the church on 
 earth. 
 
 It is usually true that those characteristics which distin- 
 guish one in mature life, are seen in their dawning, in the 
 first years of life. This was true of Mrs. Giffen. Those 
 
 B
 
 8 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 cliaracteristics which were so marked in after life were 
 seen even in the bud. In childhood her contented, cheerful, 
 sunny disposition was very manifest. To this was added a 
 spirit of intense activity — activity of feet, hands and mind. 
 The loss or denial of childish toys and trifles, which usually 
 brings such grief to a child, were generally of slight con- 
 cern to her. Ordinarily her sports were not of that kind 
 which affords most delight to children of the same age. 
 While they might be contented to gather the roses which 
 grew just by the door-step, she loved to wander away in 
 search of some amusement which better suited her taste. 
 She would be missed, and the question raised " where is 
 Mary ? " Soon she could be heard singing in the distance ; 
 then perhaps be discovered in the topmost bough of some 
 convenient apple-tree, swaying to and fro, singing as mer- 
 rily as some bird of the forest, and like it just as uncon- 
 scious of danger. This insensibility to fear she carried 
 with her through life. In all those situations were woman 
 is usually paralyzed by the presence of danger she mani- 
 fested little concern. Even when they were overtaken by 
 a mighty tempest on the Atlantic, she says : " There was 
 mingled Avith it no feeling of fear, only a sense of the 
 keenest enjoyment, and a most vivid and powerful realiza- 
 tion of the might of Him who made the sea, and walks 
 upon its waves." 
 
 Soon after she was able to read a great passion for books 
 discovered itself. Everything in her reach that the mind 
 of a child could comprehend was literally devoured. As 
 the capacities of her mind unfolded themselves she seemed 
 to thirst for knowledge. The narrative and biography of 
 profane history she loved, and the wonderful stories and 
 simple narratives of the Bible fascinated her. But at that 
 time thev were read and studied not for their devotional
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY (UIFEN. d 
 
 spirit, but because lier mind craved the knowledge thus 
 gained. Books were to her Avhat the sunlight and the dew 
 are to the flower. Unlike most eager and ra])id readers, 
 what she once read became her permanent property. It 
 was not unusual in her school-days to find her surrounded 
 by her companions, while she delineated the character and 
 the achievements of some hero of history, giving names and 
 dates and personal expressions and judgments with much 
 of the clearness and distinctness which characterized her 
 writings in after life. 
 
 She had a great wealth of affection. Those whom she 
 loved, she loved with an intensity and devotion such as few 
 natures are capable of feeling. So strong was this feeling 
 that those who knew her best were often surprised. Her 
 father and mother, brothers and sisters she almost idolized, 
 — so that their fortunes and misfortunes lay very close to 
 her heart. From her friends she withheld nothing — what 
 was hers Avas theirs ; so that it was often said of her, " she 
 could not do too much for those whom she loved." 
 
 " Excellence of character is not secured by birth or 
 blood," but it seems most likely that in Mrs. GifTen was 
 reproduced some of the prominent traits of character 
 which were manifested in both her paternal and maternal 
 ancestors. It is often true that certain peculiarities of 
 mind and body will overleap a generation or two and de- 
 velop themselves in just as pronounced a way as in the 
 originals. The subject of this sketch doubtless derived the 
 brilliancy and versatility of her mind from her mother's 
 family — the Speers. But in every other particular she 
 strikingly resembled her paternal grandmother — Mrs. Mary 
 Millen Galloway. This grandmother was endowed with 
 more than ordinary mental vigor, and piety. Her school- 
 days were prior to the \\i\v of the Revolution when school
 
 10 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 books could not often be obtained at any price. But even 
 Avhen a very small girl she attended school and made fair 
 progress by simply listening to the recitations of those who 
 were fortunate enough to have a book. This same energy 
 and determination of will characterized her through life. 
 Though she was an ardent lover of books and read all the 
 religious and theological books she could obtain, yet " she 
 looked Avell to the ways of her house," and the wants of her 
 very large family. Although she was the mother of nine 
 sons and two daughters who grew to maturity, and living 
 in an age when every vestige of clothing had to be carded 
 and s^Dun, and woven and fashioned by her own hands, still 
 she found time to read a portion of some instructive book 
 each day. Much of her reading was done from an open 
 book lying at the head of her wheel — from this she read as 
 she worked. In this way she acquired much important 
 information. As she possessed in a high degree the faculty 
 of communicating to others the treasures of her own mind, 
 her children were indebted to her for most of their religi- 
 ous education, and for that training in the distinctive prin- 
 ciples of the Associate Reformed church, to which she so 
 tenaciously clung. The father in true patriarchal style 
 would sit by, in his large arm chair, and endorse the moth- 
 er's instruction. When the congregation at Bullock's 
 Creek, York county, S. C, abandoned the use of Psalms 
 and substituted hymns, she persuaded her husband to 
 remove their membership to Hopewell in Chester county. 
 And when her youngest child — Mrs. GifFen's father — was 
 baptized, she carried him on horseback, to Hopewell, a 
 distance of twenty miles. After a generation had passed 
 away, and her children were old and grey-headed, they 
 never spoke of her except in the tenderest accents. They 
 " rose up and called her blessed," and the heart of her hus- 
 band " safely trusted in her."
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY filFFEN. 11 
 
 The reisemblance between grandinotlier and graiul- 
 daughter — ^Nlrs. i\Iary Millen Galloway and Mrs. Mary 
 Galloway Giffen — was very cunii)lete in nearly every point. 
 Not only was the })hysical similarity almost perfect, but in 
 mental ability, ami quick readiness of action the one was 
 almost a reproduction of the other. In the same way the 
 affectionate and sympathetic nature of the grandmother, 
 purified and sanctified by grace, was no less clearly devel- 
 oped in the granddaughter, who a century later gave up 
 kindred and home for the Master's service. 
 
 The foregoing brief sketch of Mrs. Gitfen's ancestry and 
 early life will better enable us to understand her career as 
 a school-girl. [Since it was not the privilege of the writer to 
 have any personal knowledge of Avhat took place during 
 those years, the following letter from Prof. Wnu Hood, 
 under Avhose tuition she received almost all her education, 
 will be read with very deep interest : 
 
 " Rev. J. C. Galloway — Dj;ar Sir : 
 
 Having learned that you intend to publish a sketch of 
 the life of your sister, Mrs. Mary "E. Giffen, along with 
 letters written while she was a missionary in Egypt, I de- 
 sire in testimony of my appreciation of her merits to fur- 
 nish you some data of her life while she was a school-girl. 
 
 It was my privilege to be her instructor, both in the vil- 
 lage and county schools of Newberry, S. C, during a part 
 of the years 1854, 1855, 1858 and 1859. In consequence 
 of this relation to her I am probably better acquainted with 
 the early developments of her mind than any one outside 
 of her own immediate family. In fact it is likely that I 
 had advantages which even members of her own family 
 did not enjoy of judging, not only of the character and 
 capabilities of her mind at this period, but also of her
 
 12 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 social qualities, and the -womanly graces that marked her 
 intercourse with strangers. 
 
 The years mentioned, with the intervening ones, cover a 
 term of six years and include her life during that most in- 
 teresting period Avhen the frank and confiding little girl 
 shades by beautiful, but almost imperceptible gradations 
 into young womanhood. During a part of the tAvo years 
 just mentioned, in addition to my opportunity to know her 
 in all the phases of life in the school-room, I boarded in 
 your father's family, and was therefore allowed to see and 
 understand her more fully. Whether in study or amuse- 
 ment, at school or at h<nne, she numifested the same strik- 
 ing individuality of character, (luick, positive, compre- 
 hending at a glance the circumstances around her, and as 
 an act of instinct discovering the means of execution. 
 
 It has been said that " the boy is father to the man," 
 This saying was never more fully exem])lified than in the 
 life of your sister. No one could know her at all inti- 
 mately without feeling forced to study her character. 
 Never have I seen a character unfold more evenly, nor 
 more in accordance with antecedent tendencies, — no abrupt 
 changes, no retrogrades, no relaxations — but a symmetrical, 
 uniform and rapid progression with liigh and heroic pur- 
 poses in view. In the time specified she completed all the 
 studies from the aiithmetic and English grammar to the 
 higher branches, including Latin, required for admission 
 to a class nearly completing the curriculum in the College 
 where she graduated. In all the study involved in this 
 large amount of work, I do not think she ever appeared 
 with a recitation indift'erently })repared. 8he was emi- 
 nently prompt in all that she undertook, energetic and 
 ambitions of progress almost to impatience at times. Par- 
 tial views of a subject or topic of study never satisfied her,
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 13 
 
 and her inquiries as to the bearing of the terms and prin- 
 ciples of the sciences under review, were so discriminating 
 as to show thorough work at every step. She eagerly 
 pressed forward for final results, but never allowed her 
 zeal to obscure the importance of details. The details 
 might be tedious, but to her mind problems were structures 
 in which every part and piece of timber must be laid true, 
 and made fast in its place to insure the strength and com- 
 pleteness of the whole. 
 
 Thus while she was daily building up her own life into 
 the truest type of noble womanhood, she was dealing 
 methodically with everything she touched, which moulds and 
 strengthens intellectual development. No encouragments 
 were needed except what she derived from daily triumphs 
 over obstacles in the path of study, and no stimulus except 
 what the subject to be mastered furnished. To learn at once 
 and thoroughly was her ambition ; and her reward was the 
 consciousness that what she attempted she was able to 
 perform. She rather sought than avoided the difficult 
 parts of science. The deeper the fountain the purer the 
 waters, and a draft from the bottom cooler than the sur- 
 face. No investigation intimidated. Every line of thought 
 was a vein of gold that grew richer at each advance. 
 
 Her memory was equal to her energy and courage. I 
 often thought that she lost less of what she read than any 
 pupil it was ever my privilege to teach. Frequently have 
 I had occasion to request her assistance to refer to matters 
 contained in an author I knew she had read. It always 
 seemed to afford her pleasure to undertake the search, and 
 she never failed to find, with remarkable facility, the sub- 
 ject, sentiment, and even the words in question. 
 
 Of course it was only natural that, the influence of a 
 pupil of such habits, should be very great on her school-
 
 14 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 mates. She was conspicuous in a class of a number of 
 young ladies, all of whom I would be pleased to mention, 
 were I not writing of the lamented dead alone, on whose 
 example in study and attractive proprieties in all the rela- 
 tions of the school-room, I relied as a main support, in the 
 later years of her connection with it. She appreciated the 
 value of order in all that appertained to the management of 
 a school, and heartily co-operated in securing it. I recall 
 with pleasure the many gentle admonitions I have heard 
 her give the less thoughtful among her schoolmates, 
 the happy inspiration of her example to them, and accept 
 it all as thus early foreshadowing the eminent success won 
 by herself in that profession in the still later days of her 
 illustrious life. 
 
 I could recall and record many incidents illustrative of 
 all that I have said of her, and much more than I can 
 indulge myself in saying, were it consistent with the object 
 of this short sketch. 
 
 Should you find anything to be of service to you in this 
 notice of so short a span in a life rendered sublime by the 
 sacrifice of its temporal comforts, in obedience to the Mas- 
 ter's call for more laborers in his ripened fields, and all too 
 short when measured by our hopes in her work, and love 
 for herself — make such use of it as may best suit your 
 plans in the publication you have undertaken." 
 
 To all the other attributes of Mrs. Giffen's mind we must 
 add that of an exalted ambition. If she found herself 
 excelled by a classmate in any department of study, or in 
 any single recitation, her mortification was very great, but 
 her classmate would never discover it from any act or word 
 of her's. Quietly, but with invincible resolution, she 
 wrought the harder for the disputed position, and the 
 sharpened zest and increased toil rarely failed to secure
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 15 
 
 the coveted prize. If a reward was offered by her teach- 
 ers instantly the resolution was formed : " I must have that 
 prize." Others might keep abreast if they could, but she 
 suffered no one to go in advance. This was the creed 
 which governed her school days. But as the years passed 
 on and her intellect developed and expanded, she rose 
 above the merely ambitious desire to excel. Her reading 
 and study Avere now for the pleasure and satisfaction that 
 it afforded her in acquainting herself Avith the thoughts of 
 the wise and good and great among men in all past time. 
 
 But it must not be supposed that all this was gained 
 Avithout great exertion. It Avas true of her, as of the rest 
 of ordinary mankind, " there is no excellence Avithout 
 great labor." When engaged on some difficult problem or 
 in the ambitious desire to excel, the hour of midnight 
 often found her bending over her task. 
 
 When the failing health of her father necessitated his 
 retirement from the active Avork of the ministry, and the 
 resignation of his pastorate, he turned his attention to the 
 education of his children. This Avork had ahvays lain 
 very near to his heart, and to accomplish this best, in the 
 Avinter of 1859 he removed his family to Due West. Here 
 Mrs. Giffin entered the Junior class in the female college, 
 half advanced. The same unflagging energy and close 
 application Avhich had so signally marked her earlier years 
 of study, AV'ere just as manifest in these closing months. 
 Indeed so thorough and so successful were her efforts at 
 this period that her sehool record shoAvs that there Avere 
 not above three or four recitations during the entire term, 
 which Avere not perfect. She enjoyed the advantages of a 
 collegiate instruction for a very brief term — not more than 
 sixteen months. Perhaps five years Avould cover the en- 
 tire period of her school life. But as " labor overcomes
 
 16 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 all things," Mrs. Giffen received on her graduation day 
 the highest honors conferred by the institution from which 
 she graduated. 
 
 At the age of eighteen, when she left college she had 
 read almost all the po})ular classical authors, and in addi- 
 tion to these a very wide range of other literature, of such 
 a character that few young ladies have the capacity or the 
 taste to investigate. After graduation she was very desir- 
 ous of pursuing a more extended and thorough course of 
 study than that aiiurded l)y the ordinary institutions of 
 learning, but finding this impracticable, she immediately 
 entered upon a very comprehensive course of reading. 
 She had access to several extensive public libraries, and in 
 these she literally reveled. No miser amid his heaps of 
 gold and silver ever handled his coveted treasure with the 
 delight and unalloyed hai)piness which she felt in commun- 
 ing with the master minds of the literary world. 
 
 In a few months she had read all the greater English 
 poets, and had arranged and classified in her mind, the 
 contents of each one in regard to their intrinsic merits, or 
 peculiar style. But of them all the transcendent genius 
 and lofty imagination of Byron most fascinated her. 
 
 Of all her studies, however, none so interested and in- 
 structed her as history — whether of individuals or nations. 
 She dearly loved to trace the efforts and struggles of each 
 one, as they appeared and disappeared on the stage of the 
 world's history, rose to dazzling greatness, or sunk into 
 nothingness. Here she gained her deepest insight into human 
 motives and character, and learned her profoundest lessons 
 in regard to the problem of life. 
 
 Nor were the prose wi'itings of the best authors in any 
 degree neglected. But her reading in the realm of ficti- 
 tious literature was conducted with great caution, and in
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY OTFFEN. 17 
 
 the exercise of a most discriniinatiug jiulgiuoul. She gave 
 her attention only to such as were pure, refining, and ele- 
 vated in its tone. The imbecility, insipidity and mawkish 
 sentimentality which constitutes so largo a part of the warp 
 and woof of modern literature was offensive to her, and just 
 as she wouhl repel indecent conduct and offensive words in 
 her presence, so did she repel such literature. And when she 
 was betrayed into the reading (^f a book of questionable tend- 
 ency, she either laid it aside at once when discovered, or else 
 continued its })erusal with that t)ffended sense of delicacy 
 and modesty which a well-bred lady feels in the presence 
 of what is indelicate and immodest. On one occasion a 
 friend sent her a copy of George Eliot's Middlemarcli, ac- 
 companying it with a note of most enthusiastic commenda- 
 tion. She had not read many j)ages before she discovered 
 its detestable morality, laid it aside in deep disgu.st and 
 never opened it again. 
 
 Nor did she neglect purely philosophical studies and in- 
 vestigations, for her mind was not one-sided. All her mental 
 faculties were evenly and equally developed : or, as another 
 has phrased it, her mind was " circularly developed." She 
 did not suffer from the infirmity so common to so many 
 truly great minds — that of being strong and powerfully 
 developed in some lines of mental activity and capacity, 
 and weak as a child in other departments. Hence she 
 mastered a difficult equation in algebra, or solved a 
 problem in geometry with the same ease and facility 
 with which she translated a page in Virgil or 
 Horace. But her mathematical faculty was best de- 
 veloped, and in its exercise she most delighted and 
 most excelled. Yet she took a peculiar delight in 
 what was especially imaginative, and as her writings 
 will testify, often allowed hei- fancy to soar aloft in
 
 IS LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 the boldest flights of imagery. At the same time she coukl 
 descend into the most purely practical and severe forms of 
 study and thought with equal facility. For example wit- 
 ness her letter on the mathematical })roportions and scien- 
 tific construction of the great pyramid illustrating the theory 
 of Piazzi Smyth, "astronomer royal," of Scotland; then in 
 vivid contrast her description of her feelings and thoughts as 
 she stood on the top of that mountain of stone. At this 
 period of her life the taste for purely mental culture, was 
 so absorbing, and was carried to such a degree, that her 
 friends became alarmed lest the intellectual part of her 
 nature would swallow up the religious. The greed of her 
 intellect was circumscribed only by her surroundings. 
 AVhat she read was quickly assimilated, what she once 
 made her's was never lost, and it was as easily retained as 
 the facility with which it was obtained. 
 
 During all these years she must have had some religious 
 impressions and convictions, for her Christian training was 
 all that a pious, faithful and devoted fother and mother 
 and mother could make it. Yet judging from her well- 
 known open and decisive character, and the entire ignorance 
 of her most intimate friends in regard to it, these impressions 
 could not have been very permanent or profound. They at 
 least produced no marked change in the tenor of her life. 
 The purely intellectual seemed to have dominated her 
 whole nature.
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 19 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 DEATH OF HER BROTHER — CONVERSION — EFFORT AT 
 MISSION WORK — CAREER AS A TEACHER — LETTERS 
 FROM TEXAS — MISSION TO THE GERMANS. 
 
 At the time of Mrs. Giflen'.s graduation the country was 
 darkened by the shadows of a coming civil war. All was 
 commotion and confusion. INIen seemed frenzied with ex- 
 citement and political passion. The artisan left his bench, 
 the student his text book, and the farmer his plow. The 
 tramp of armed men was everywhere heard, and the coun- 
 try seemed one vast mustering camp. Still so insatiable 
 was her thirst for the fountains of knowledge, that even in 
 these untoward circumstances she })ursued her studies pri- 
 vately for many months. But as the great conflict deep- 
 ened, and the church-yards began to fill with the dead 
 brought back from the fields of carnage, the spell seemed 
 to be broken, and she turned to the sober prosaic duties of 
 the hour. But no one gifted with her boundless energy 
 could long remain inactive, and she now turned her atten- 
 tion to the vocation of the teacher, and took charge of a 
 private school in Georgia. Here her large-heartedness, 
 her attractive social qualities, and brilliant conversational 
 powers made her many friends. All with whom she was 
 brought in contact were won to her, and became fast and firm 
 friends, and even to this day " Miss Galloway " has a large 
 place in their affections." But at the end of the year she 
 returned home, for the country had become so convulsed 
 by the throes of the gigantic conflict, that almost all the 
 liberal professions were suspended, and men and women 
 gazed with bated breath upon red battle-fiehls and smoking 
 cities.
 
 20 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 Perhaps a year before this Mrs. Giffen's eldest brother, — 
 Calvin M. Galloway — a " beardless youth," enlisted in the 
 Confederate army. Between these two there existed a pure 
 and deathless affection. She loved him with a wealth of 
 affection that few brothers ever receive, and few sisters are 
 capable of giving. And he fully returned it. At the time 
 of his enlistment he was a member of the Freshman class 
 in Erskine College, and was a youth of uncommon promise, 
 closely resembling in intellect and affections his now sainted 
 sister. The correspondence between them was close and 
 full. Every week the mail bore away a thick letter, filled 
 with such hopes and messages as such a sister alone could 
 give. AVhen the telegraph flashed the news " a great battle 
 has been fought," her heart seemed to stand still until a 
 letter in his well known handwriting brought relief. At 
 that time every family had a daily newsj^aper. Mrs. Giffen 
 was an accomplished reader, and during those dark days 
 of " agony long drawn out," the chiefest event of the day 
 Avas the gathering of the houseiiold around the fireside for 
 the perusal of the paper. By universal consent Mrs. 
 Giffen was installed as reader, and one of the brightest 
 memories of that dark time is the recollection of her clear 
 ringing voice, as she read column after column of " The 
 very latest from the front." 
 
 The weary days and months dragged on, and at last the 
 armies confronted each other at Spottsylvania Court 
 House. At day-break, on the 12th of May, 1864, the Con- 
 federate line holding the extreme point of a projecting 
 angle was overrun and captured by the Federals, " twenty 
 lines of battle deep." To restore the line McGowan's 
 South Carolina brigade was sent in this angle. After 
 fighting all day, in that carnival of death, with a cool 
 courage that extorted admiration even from strangers, this 
 loved brother fell " in the fore front (jf the battle."
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 21 
 
 It fell to niy lot to bring home the sad tidings, " Calvin 
 is missing." And when she ran to meet me at the gate, 
 and I told her the terrible truth, I will never forget how 
 looked her white and agonized face. It was a blow that 
 seemed to drive back the whole tenor of her life. Her 
 nature was convulsed from center to circumference. The 
 blow, so keen-edged and severe to a disposition like hers — 
 an affection so deep and pure, and a sensibility so extreme 
 — was like taking her own life. 
 
 His death produced a complete revolution in her feelings. 
 Although he was smitten down in an instant and never 
 spoke after, she had no doubts and alarms about his future, 
 for he had been for some time in connection with the 
 church of his father and mother. But at this time she was 
 not. This event turned the whole current of her life into 
 an entirely different channel. It aroused deep and search- 
 ing questions about her own future. The idea of a final, 
 total separation from this loved one, seemed to be more 
 than she could endure, and on the wings of affection her 
 spirit followed his into the spirit land. " Shall I never see 
 him again? Am I to be /o) -ere r separated from him? I can- 
 not even bear the thought. He cannot come to me but I 
 can go to him." And then and there with all the energy 
 and purpose that characterized her life, she resolved, " I 
 Avill go to him. God helping me I will see his face once 
 more, and see it in that land where war is unknown," and 
 " whose sod has never yet Ijeen pierced for a grave." To 
 this solemn resolve God added his blessing, and in her case 
 literally fulfilled the promise, " they that seek Me early shall 
 find Me." Thus does God bring good out of evil, and make 
 man's extremity His opportunity. Her Bible had been 
 much read before this, but now it was read with an en- 
 tirely new meaning. It became her constant companion.
 
 22 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 her daily and hourly study. With the Bible, and some 
 Commentary in her hand she daily sought the quiet and 
 solitude of a neighboring grove, and seemed intent only 
 upon communion with her Saviour. In addition to this 
 she used all other helps and theological writings which 
 were at hand. The writer well remembers her serene and 
 satisfied demeanor when this course of reading was finished. 
 Her manner and actions plainly indicated that the light 
 from above was shining full upon her, that there were now 
 no distracting doubts and fears — all was clear and peace- 
 ful. 
 
 But it was the study of such works as the " Life of Mrs. 
 Judson," Mrs. Harriet Newell, and Mrs. Graham, that 
 most interested and delighted her, and which most largely 
 shaped her future life. The cultivation of her religious 
 life was now as earnestly and diligently pursued as had 
 been her intellectual nature. She seemed intent upon ed- 
 ucating equally in religious truth, both her heart and 
 mind, that she might not only feel in her soul all the tender 
 and loving force of " the truth as it is in Jesus," but also 
 have a thoroughly intellectual and theoretical knowledge 
 of the way of life. This she attained in a very eminent 
 degree. 
 
 Mrs. GiflTen's religious experience was, in one respect, 
 very striking. If she was ever troubled with those seasons 
 of weakness and darkness which often make up no small 
 portion of the lives even of very eminent Christians, her 
 friends never knew it. And we think that such was not 
 the case. The reason for this doubtless lay in the fact that 
 her knowledge of religious truth was very clear, positive 
 and comprehensive, so that when once grounded in a truth, 
 nothing moved her. Most of the distress and perplexity 
 which Christians experience arises from imperfect appre-
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY filFFEN. 28 
 
 hension of the truth, and the ^va^t of positive and settled 
 convictions. All these sources of weakness were wanting 
 in Mrs. Giffen's religious character, hence her Christian 
 race was firm and vigorous, like "the path of the just 
 which shineth more and more unto the perfect day." 
 
 Up to this time she had lived i)rincipally to gratify her 
 intellectual tastes, for her sisters and brothers, and for the 
 devoted friends whom she had won. But now under the 
 impulse of the new Divine life stirring within her, and 
 largely also because of reading such biographies as those 
 of Payson and Brainerd, Mrs. Judson and Mrs. Newell, 
 her soul was strongly drawn out to her unfortunate sisters 
 in heathen countries. Since she iu)w knew something of 
 the power of the love of God, in her own heart, and the 
 joy which His Spirit gave, she was filled with a great long- 
 ing to go forth and toil in those lands that were covered 
 with the shadow of moral death, where " there is no vision 
 and the people perish." Time only seemed to feed the holy 
 flame that was burning within her. 
 
 At this time, however, the country was still distracted by 
 civil war, and it was therefore impossible to enter upon 
 work of that character. As soon however as national quiet 
 was restored, and communication was again established be- 
 tween the Northern and Southern churches, she attempted 
 to put her resolution into effect, and formally consecrate 
 her life to the Master in the great cause of missions. To 
 this end, at her request, my father directed a communica- 
 tion to Rev. J. B. Dales, D. D., Secretary of the Board of 
 Foreign Missions of the United Presbyterian church, ask- 
 ing if that Board would be willing to send out a single lady 
 into the foreign field. To this inquiry the answer came, 
 " we have more applicants than we have the means to sup- 
 port." Application was made to this Board because at this
 
 24 JvIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 time the Associate Reformed churcli had no Board of Mis- 
 sions, This attempt was made in the latter part of the year 
 1865. Notwithstanding this failure she still clung to her 
 purpose. In the summer of the following year, in company 
 with her brother, she sought and held a conference with Dr. 
 Bonner. It was long and earnest. China was the field 
 which she had selected when she first formed the resolution 
 to devote her life to missionary labor, and at this time she 
 was seeking his advice in regard to entering at once this 
 field. As the conference drew to a close she said : " Then 
 you do not favor the undertaking?" His answer was 
 cheerful in tone, but discouraging in eflPect. " AVait a 
 while — wait a while, and let us see." Perhaps his sagacious 
 mind foresaw what actually occurred ten years later, when 
 she entered the work as the honored missionary of her own 
 church, and in the field of that church's own choosing — a 
 thing then impossible. 
 
 Cut off again in this direction she accepted the result 
 cheerfully, as she always did any inevitable result, saying, 
 " I will devote my life to teaching in this country." This 
 she did with marked success, for whatever she did was 
 done with her might. Her thorough capacity, rare power 
 in reaching the hearts of her pupils and high social quali- 
 ties rendered her very acceptable as a teacher. Not once 
 during her career as a teacher did she leave a situation 
 with the consent of the trustees. During this period of 
 her life she visited many sections of the Southern States, 
 and in every instance left behind an enviable reputation. 
 
 Rev. D. G. Phillips, D. D., for several years associated 
 with her in the class-room, thus writes : " Her mind was 
 pre-eminently analytical, and very tenacious, possessing in 
 a wonderful degree the power of abstraction. She could 
 hold it on an isolated thought until she had weighed it.
 
 MRS. MARY «ALT.O\VAY firi-'FKX. 25 
 
 labeled it, and ^^ture*! il away for future use. Another 
 peculiarity was her love for the study of dry text books; 
 and it was this love for dry and severe forms of study, 
 which made her l^oth an exact and profound scholar. As 
 a teacher her effort was to train the mind of the pupil to 
 tlibik. She often (pioted to her pupils the language of Dr. 
 Thornwell — " ability to think is worth a thousand thoughts." 
 With a masculine energy she grajjpled with abstruse ideas, 
 and inquired into facts, and the nature, laws and relations 
 of things. She found more ])leasure in calculating the 
 sides, angles, height and age of one of the Pyramids, than 
 in the beauties and niceties of polite literature." 
 
 " In 1871, I opened an Academy, and in looking around 
 for some one competent to take charge of the advanced 
 classes, in French and mathematics, and at the same time 
 give instruction in both vocal and instrumental music — a 
 combination of talents not easily found — my mind at once 
 turned to Mrs. Giffen, who already had a reputation as an 
 expert teacher. She accepted at once and entered into the 
 work with the feeling, " 'Tis not in mortals to command 
 success, but we'll do more — deserve it," she did both, and 
 left in this section memories fragrant as " ointment 
 poured forth." As a teacher she needed neither govei-n- 
 ment nor discipline in her school. There was a kind of 
 magnetism in her method which served for both, and 
 caught and held the attention of her pupils. Her method 
 of instruction was strictly analytical. If teaching a child 
 its alphabet, she began by teaching it to fix its mouth, and 
 make the sign of the sound before uttering the sound. Or 
 if hearing a recitation in Quadratic Equations, she re- 
 quired the pupil to analyze the statement, and tell how the 
 work should proceed, and what the result should be, before 
 making a letter on the board. Thus all her pupils were
 
 26 LIFK AND LETTERS OF 
 
 taught first to think and then to demonstrate the correct- 
 ness of the thought. Thus the mind was trained to make 
 and keep all its faculties subordinate to the will. As 
 proof of her efficiency, several of her pupils who afterward 
 stood high in their college course, and received college 
 honors, attrilnite their success to the methods of study she 
 taught them." 
 
 " With her education was not cramming an already dis- 
 tended and active mind with great thoughts and well di- 
 gested ideas, but a drawing out and cultivating the latent 
 powers of the mind, and enabling it to think great thoughts, 
 and digest great ideas. Patient and painstaking her first 
 object was to get the attention of the pupil fixed on the 
 labor before it, and her abundant resources were always 
 adequate to that task. Herein lay her strength. It was 
 impossible for a pupil to recite to her one hour without 
 being (so to express it) invelgled'mXo thinking. Even then 
 she never allowed herself to seem to think for her pupil. 
 If he could not master a difficulty, and called for assist- 
 ance she and he would think it out together and in such a 
 way that he should feel that it was a mutual victory. Here 
 she acquired the title of " ilie teacher " by way of pre- 
 eminence. She lives in the hearts of many pujjils whom 
 she taught, on two continents, to many of whom she will 
 be able at the great day, to point and say "the children 
 whom thou hast given me." 
 
 .She had much of that subtile influence Avhich we will 
 call the power of personal magnetism, and sometimes it 
 was exerted in a wonderful way. Take an example of 
 this: 
 
 She had been teaching in Middle Tennessee, in a high 
 school, and the term had closed. The last day was de- 
 voted to the usual public examination of the various
 
 MRS. MARY r.AI.r.O'WAY fJFFEX. 27 
 
 classes. The moniiiig exercises liad progressed very satis- 
 factorily until noon. The school being located in the 
 country, at the intermission, some of the young lady pupils 
 gathered in the music-room to have a last talk with " Miss 
 Mary, ' for her friends enjoyed few things more than her 
 rare conversati_(mal powers. They expressed their regrets 
 that the efforts of the trustees could not induce her to re- 
 main another year, and they kncAV they would not have 
 another whom they would love as they did her ; and now 
 she was going away, and they would see her face no more. 
 Soon some of them were in tears and others were sobbing 
 aloud. She remonstrated and endeavored again and again 
 to restore quiet, telling them that the remaining exercises 
 of the day would soon come on, and that they were unfit- 
 ting themselves for their duties in these. But it availed 
 nothing ; and the sobbing soon extended outside of the 
 music-room and affected the entire school. Others beside 
 herself interfered and endeavored to restore quiet, but all 
 efforts })roved unavailing. Several of the young ladies 
 became rigid and insensible and in this condition were 
 carried to the nearest dwelling. The visiting committee 
 perceiving the position of afiairs, advised that the exer- 
 cises be closed at once and all return to their homes. 
 
 This was done. 
 
 Time passed on and the year 187o found her in the great 
 State of Texas, whither she had gone at the solicitation of 
 very dear friends, whom she had met years before. The 
 idea of making such a distant journey — across the South- 
 ern States, over the Gulf, and far into the interior of Texas 
 — a State at that time regarded as the paradise of vagabonds 
 and cut-throats, rather appalled some of her less courageous 
 friends. After residing here for several months and 
 making a thorough study of Texas, her people and her
 
 28 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 material resources, she wrote a series of letters for the 
 Presbyterian. These were known as the famous "Texas 
 Letters," and were well received by the public. The au- 
 thor was unknown at this time, and there was much dis- 
 cussion as to whether the writer was a gentleman or lady. 
 Some contended that the mental breadth and grasp of the 
 subject and the bold, vigorous style indisputably proclaimed 
 the writer a gentleman. Others were equally sure that 
 the keen powers of observation and delicate feminine 
 touches manifested in these articles discovered the hand 
 of a woman. 
 
 The lamented Dr. Bonner, editor of the Presbyterian, in 
 writing to Mrs. ii\i\en in acknowledgment of these articles 
 says : " I must confess that I have treated you badly in not 
 writing to you long ago. You have been very kind in 
 writing for me — have written a dozen articles of very 
 great interest, and yet this is the first time I have sat 
 down to thank you. But let me assure you that my seem- 
 ing neglect has not been on account of indifference. I 
 can never forget one who has always been so kind to me, 
 but especially the kindness shown me in Augusta when I 
 was sick — that will always have a place in my memory. 
 But I do thank you most sincerely for your excellent let- 
 ters from Texas. Without any intention of flattering I 
 must say that I regard them as equal to the best corres- 
 pondence of the metropolitan papers. This is the verdict 
 of all intelligent readers. Whenever you can write with- 
 out interfering too much with other pursuits, I hope you 
 will use your pen for the benefit of the readers of the 
 Presbyterian. I assure you the favor will be appreciated. 
 
 " Old Mr. Stevenson, of Generostee, came up to me last 
 Sabbath evening as I was leaving and said : ' I do not 
 know who it is that writes from Texas, but the writer ex-
 
 MRS. MAKY GALLOWAY UIFFEN. 29 
 
 presses exactly what I have h)ng felt, but could not express 
 — about ' forgivintf and not forgetting.' He is a good old 
 man, and says as he gets nearer and nearer to his end he 
 feels more and more interest in the cause of Union, espe- 
 cially with the United Presbyterians." '^ 
 
 But the cause of Associate Reformed Presbyterianism in 
 that distant region received much attention at her hands. 
 She was devotedly attached to the church of her fathers, 
 and it grieved her to find how many of its members had 
 found homes in that great State, but had no church organ- 
 ization of their own. Indeed at that time there was only 
 one minister of the Associate Reformed Church in the 
 State. By personal observation, by diligent inquiry, 
 and by every other avenue of knowledge open to her, 
 she gathered up all the information which might be 
 useful to the church in forming a correct judgment 
 of the wants of this field, and in prosecuting her 
 work there. After her return home she continued to 
 agitate the subject at every favorable opportunity, stren- 
 uously urging the claims and the needs of the Texas 
 chui'ches. One after another of the leaders of the church 
 took up the cause, and the force of missionaries was in- 
 creased year by year, until Texas had a Presbytery of her 
 own. 
 
 But the spirit of missions had not died within her. 
 During her stay in this region she made a visit to the 
 south-western part of the State. While there, like Paul 
 at Athens, her " spirit was stirred within" her when she 
 saw the country given up to Catholicism. Its mummeries 
 and superstitions, its ignorance, its Sabbath desecration, 
 and its entrenched hold upon its degraded adherents — all 
 these things produced a profound impression upon her. It 
 was her first contact with the system and it engendered a
 
 30 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 repulsive horror which never forsook her. And now her old 
 yearning to deliver misguided souls from their ignorance 
 and darkness — to do active work for the Master — returned 
 upon her with all its former power and intensity. " Shall 
 I permit these people to perish and lift no hand for their 
 deliverance ? God saw fit to prevent me from going to a 
 heathen land to labor, and now he has brought me face to 
 face with as deep a destitution of vital truth as exists in 
 many parts of the heathen world. Is not this an indica- 
 tion that he wished me to labor here? With his help I 
 will do what I can." 
 
 With this purpose in view she addressed a letter to the 
 Avriter — then a student in the Seminary — asking him to 
 join her in a mission to the Gernuin Catholics of South- 
 western Texas. This mission she proposed to sustain by 
 her ouii efforts, for at that time the Synod Avas hardly 
 ])ressed for the means to sustain the vital enterprises of its 
 home work. To procure the money necessary to support 
 the mission she proposed to labor in the school-room during 
 the week, but devoting Saturday and Sabbath to active 
 mission work. That she Avould largely have succeeded in 
 supporting the mission in this way had it been undertaken, 
 few question who were aware of the energy and persever- 
 ance which she brought to bear upon the accomplishment of 
 a darling purpose. 
 
 But the plan was never carried out. To have entered 
 this work at that time Avould have required the writer to 
 sacrifice a large part of his theological education, and this 
 his wisest friends discouraged. The scheme was, therefore 
 ■eluctantly abandoned. 
 
 During the fall of the same year— 1873— the Synod 
 met at Mt. Zion, Mo. The delegate from the U. P. Church 
 warmly urged the Synod to co-operate with that body in 
 
 I
 
 MRS, MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 31 
 
 the work of missions, saying : " You have a young lady wlio 
 is spoiling for a mission." His impressions in this res])ect 
 were derived from ISIrs. Giffen's " Texas Letters." 
 
 In the following year a very decided spirit of missions 
 manifested itself throughout the church, culminating in 
 the formal offer of Rev. W. A. Wilson, to enter the for- 
 eign field. This offer was eagerly accepted by the Board 
 of Missions, and Egypt, a field of co-o])erative labor with 
 the United Presbyterian church was selected as the initial 
 point of labor. The whole church hailed this step with 
 unfeigned rejoicing as the omen of a better and brighter 
 day for our Zion, feeling that our reproach among the 
 thousands of Israel was now taken away. But as had so 
 often happened in the past, so now the church was doomed 
 to disappointment. Unforeseen family affliction compelled 
 the resignation of the newly-appointed missionaiy. 
 
 The history of the mission efforts and failures of the 
 Associate Reformed Church South is rather a curious one. 
 Verily it would seem that God severely tried the faith of 
 the church in this matter. About the year 1838, the 
 Synod passed an order requiring all her congregations to 
 take up collections for Foreign Missions. The first effort 
 was to co-operate with the Reformed Presbyterian (Cove- 
 nanter) Church North, in their missions to India, by giv- 
 ing pecuniary aid. To this work three or four very lib- 
 eral donations were made, in acknowledgment of which 
 some of their heathen converts and students of divinity 
 wei-e named for the leading members of the Synod — viz. : 
 John Hemphill, Wm. Blackstocks, and Isaac Grier. 
 
 After a few years Synod determined to establish a mis- 
 sion of her own in Liberia, and for this purpose appointed 
 a Board of Missions. This Board deter mimed to establish 
 a Mission School in Libeiia, and through Rev. W. R. Hemp-
 
 32 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 hill held a correspondence with a Mr. Erskine, colored, of the 
 North, but without accomplishing any results. They then 
 employed a Mr. AVare, colored, of Liberia, to teach their 
 mission school. This resulted in failure either compara- 
 tive or complete. It was then resolved to educate a col- 
 ored minister for the Liberiau mission. In response to a 
 call to the " pious and liberal of the church to furnish 
 suitable persons to be educated," Dr. Geo. W. Pressly, Mr. 
 James Robinson and the Misses Murphy each devoted a boy. 
 After a short trial. Rev. N. M. Gordon, to whom they had 
 been committed for education, sent them all back as incom- 
 petent, both mentally and morally. About the year 1848, 
 Revs. Messrs. W. W. Patton and J. M. Young were sent 
 out to explore Texas. At this time Texas was regarded 
 as a foreign field. On horseback they traversed Texas in 
 every direction for several months. This resulted in send- 
 ing out Rev. W. M. Sharp, who proceeded to Brenham, 
 Texas, and there endeavored to establish a mission. But 
 like the others this also failed. 
 
 Succeeding these efforts and failures the church, for 
 some time, was nuich engaged in bootless discussions and 
 dissentions on " The Marriage Question," " Union " with 
 the G. A. Presbyterians South, to the great detriment of 
 her missionary zeal and effbrt. During the next ten years 
 Home Missions gained the ascendancy. 
 
 But in the year 1858, a permanent Board of Foreign 
 Missions was established, which entered actively and spir- 
 itedly upon their work. Egypt and South America were 
 the fields prominently before the Board, a majority favoring 
 Egypt- When arrangements were well nigh completed 
 for putting workers into the field, " the war between the 
 States" effectually suspended operations. When this un- 
 happy struggle was terminated, the Church was so pros-
 
 AfKS. MARY CALLOWAY fUFFF.V. 33 
 
 trated by its results that for a Haifa score of years it could 
 barely stagger along under the burden of its own inunedi- 
 atc necessities. And when its mission spirit revived again 
 in 1874, it experienced another keen disappointment. 
 
 chaptp:r III. 
 
 OFFERS HERSELF TO THE BOARD — IS ACCEPTED — FARE- 
 WELL MEETINGS — JOURNEY TO PHILADELPHIA — 
 EMBARKATION. 
 
 The retirement of Rev. Mr. AVilson still left the church 
 without a missionary. The attention f)f the Board was 
 then centered on Mrs. GifFen. Early in the fall of 1874 
 Dr. Bonner, then Secretary of the Board of Foreign Mis- 
 sions, held a conference Avith her in regard to offering 
 herself as a missionary. As President of the Due West 
 Female College he had been her teacher during the last 
 months of her college life, and thoroughly understood her 
 nature and capacity. He was also a very warm personal 
 friend. In this conference all his powers of persuasive 
 earnestness as well as his great personal influence were 
 brought to bear to induce a decision favorable to missions. 
 It should be stated that in this conference Dr. Bonner 
 was not acting as the official representative of the Board, 
 although it was aware of and approved his action. 
 
 But she seemed disinclined to offer herself, most probably 
 because of the fact that the Church had no missionaries in 
 the field, and being a frail Avoman shrank from the respons- 
 ibility of being the " pioneer missionary," and because of
 
 34 LIFE AND I>ETTER8 OF 
 
 the fact tnat the church preferred to send out a man as 
 her " first missiouary." She felt that if the sequel proved 
 that she had a call to go and teach in a heathen land the 
 call would come to her in a more formal way, from the 
 authorities of the church. This would relieve her from 
 all appearance of self-seeking, of thrusting herself on the 
 church, for she was well aware of its preference. But 
 with all these influences brought to bear on her we may 
 be sure the fire burned hotly within. Day by day and 
 week by week she waited to see what God had in store for 
 her. It was no light thing for her highly sensitive and 
 deeply affectionate nature to leave all, country and friends, 
 father and mother — all that life holds that is dear to a 
 woman's heart, to enter a mission of another church, and 
 that church entirely confined to a diflferent section of the 
 country, and to be wholly thrown with persons not one of 
 whom she had ever seen or known ; to stand upon the 
 threshold of a new and strange life, filled with hardship 
 and self-denial, in a semi-heathen land, that land seven 
 thousand miles away and two oceans rolling between, and 
 only a frail, lonely woman — such a situation Avould bring 
 up questionings deep and solemn. 
 
 But the call did come, and with a clearness and force 
 Avhich swept down all obstacles. In December, 1874, two 
 months after this conference. Dr. J. B. Dales, Secretary of 
 the Board of Foreign INIissions of the United Presbyterian 
 Church of N.A., addressed a communication to Dr. Bonner, 
 Secretary of the Board of Missions of the Associate Re- 
 formed Church South, stating that his Board would soon send 
 out two young men to the field in Egypt, and asking if the 
 Church South had not some one whom it was willing to 
 send to the same field, and urging in a very cordial way if 
 the Synod Avould not co-operate with them in their Foreign
 
 MRS. MAKY f;Al-l,<1AVAY Oil FEX. 35 
 
 Mission work. AVith this letter in his hand, Dr. Bonner 
 immediately paid Mrs. Giffen a visit, and warmly nrged 
 her to offer herself and go in company with these newly- 
 appointed missionaries to the Egyj^tian field. She answered 
 that if " it was the eoncnrrent wish of the Board," she 
 would willingly go. The time was short, a meeting Avas 
 called that day and she was unanimously appointed. 
 
 This appointment was heartily endorsed by a large ma- 
 jority of the Church, and especially did it kindle the zeal 
 and enthusiasm of the noble women of the Church, and 
 they held up her hands with a sympathy and devotion 
 worthy of all honor. But there were a few cavillers who 
 said : " Why all this excitement and enthusiasm ; it is 
 only a woman. Why send her ; she can't preach the Gos- 
 pel ? " This last remark once happened to be made in the 
 presence of Dr. Jas. P. Pressly. He instantly replied : 
 " Indeed she will." 
 
 As the time for her departure drew near the Board 
 arranged for a series of " Farewell jNIeetings " in the 
 vicinity and along the route until the limits of the Church 
 were passed. The object of these meetings was to create 
 an interest and excite an enthusiasm for the person of the 
 missionary and her work. But they were a fearful ordeal 
 for the missionary. 
 
 The most noteworthy of these occurred in Due West, 
 the home of Mrs. Giffen, and was reported in the succeed- 
 ing issue of the Presbyterian, part of which report is here 
 given : 
 
 FAREWELL MEETING AT DUE WEST. 
 
 This meeting came off on Wednesday night of last week, 
 the 27th of January. A more affecting scene we have 
 never witnessed, unless it was in a case where a catastrophe 
 or h death was involved. A procession was formed on the
 
 36 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 street, headed by Dr. Grier and members of the Mission- 
 ary Society of the Female College, then by the officers and 
 members of the Board of Foreign Missions, the officers 
 and male members of the Missionary Society of Due 
 West, fallowed by the Missionary and the committee of 
 ladies who had been appointed to accompany her that 
 night, then by the lady members of the Due West Mis- 
 sionary Society, then by students and citizens. In a few 
 moments the church was crowded from the jjulpit back to 
 the doors, with a considerable number of both whites and 
 colored in the gallery. The officers of the Board and of 
 the Due West Missionary Society, the professors and the 
 speakers took tlieir seats in the oi)en space near the pulpit, 
 while immediately in front of them in the first pew the 
 missionary and her attendants arranged themselves. The 
 first thing that attracted the attention of the audience on 
 taking their seats were the writing and other significant 
 characters which were seen upon the wall above the pulpit. 
 In crimson capital letters were, " Lo, I am with you 
 alwav," in a semi-circle, encased in a beautiful wreath. Be- 
 neath this there was the representation of a shield, not the 
 word. On the left were the words, " Take the " — on the right, 
 " of faith," so that it read, " Take the shield of faith." 
 AVithin the lines indicating the shield were in gilt letters, 
 " M. E. Galloway, our first missionary." Below this was 
 the word " Farewell," in large illuminated letters. 
 
 The duty of presiding over the meeting was assigned to 
 Dr. Boyce, chairman of the Board of Foreign Missions. 
 The exercises were opened by singing a part of the 45th 
 P^HJ.ni; the following being one of the verses : 
 
 " O daughter take good heed, 
 
 Incline and give good ear, 
 Thon must forget thy kindred all, • 
 
 And father's house most dear."
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 87 
 
 Dr. J. P. Pressly then offered an appropriate antl an af- 
 fecting prayer. The chairman of the Board of Foreign 
 Missions then addressed the missionary. 
 
 The address of the chairman was followed by that of 
 Kev. W. L. Pressly, pastor, in his own behalf, and in that 
 of the congregation. It was peculiarly touching and af- 
 fecting. 
 
 Then followed addresses and resolutions by the pupils of 
 the female college, and the students of the seminary. Rev. 
 J. 0. Lindsay, of the Old School Presbyterian church, then 
 forcibly and eloquently presented the encouragements to 
 mission work, and was followed by the farewell address of 
 the missionary, written by Mrs. M. A. Lindsay, and read 
 by Rev. AV. M. Grier, D. D. : 
 
 THE MISSIONARY'S FAEEWELL. 
 
 " Yet once more bless me, father. 
 
 With tender words of love. 
 They'll often soothe and comfort 
 
 When far away I rove ; 
 And whether yon or I shall first 
 
 Death's narrow stream pass o'er, 
 'Tis sweet to know that we will meet 
 
 On the eternal shore. 
 Then bid me go in peace, father. 
 
 His wondrous love to tell. 
 And may He be your guide and stay. 
 
 Farewell ! Farewell ! 
 
 Call me your own dear child, mother, 
 
 And fold me to your breast. 
 The sweetest place in all the world. 
 
 For wearied heads to rest. 
 Your heart is throbbing sore, mother, 
 
 And mine is filleil with pain,
 
 38 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 How will it often yearn to see 
 This dear, dear face again ! 
 
 My mother : what you are to me 
 No faltering lip can tell ; 
 
 Yet I mnst go. My mother dear, 
 Farewell ! Farewell ! 
 
 Brothers, true-hearted, loyal ones, 
 
 Your sisters' joy and pride, 
 I've watched you grew to manhood. 
 
 Three brothers, side by side. 
 Ye, too, will leave the parent roof, 
 
 Yet on and upward press. 
 And though you meet with loss and cross 
 
 Our father's God will bless. 
 Perhaps — nay, 'tis too sweet a hope — 
 
 That one of you may dwell 
 With your sister in the lieathen land. 
 
 Farewell ! Farewell ! 
 
 Sisters, you'll often miss me. 
 
 And bitter tears will shed. 
 Almost as if the exile 
 
 Were numbered with the dead. 
 Yet not too sadly mourn me. 
 
 Our parents you will cheer. 
 You'll help them every burden 
 
 And every grief to bear. 
 Sweet memories will haunt us, 
 
 Like Ocean's murmuring shell, 
 And we in dreams will often meet. 
 
 Farewell ! Farewell ! 
 
 My home, excepting God's own courts, 
 No other spot so sweet. 
 __ My church, within whose sacred shrine 
 Heaven bends our souls to greet. 
 My friends — oh bear me in your hearts ; 
 If you will for me pray.
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 39 
 
 Then I sliall go from " strengtli to strengtli 
 
 Rejoicing on my way." 
 My native land — no other clime 
 
 May wield my magic spell, 
 And nntil death I'll cherish thee. 
 
 Farewell! Farewell!" 
 
 Dr. Bonner, in behalf of the missionary, tenderly re- 
 turned thanks to the audience for the interest manifested 
 in the missionary personally, and in the cause which she 
 represented, and asked that jDrayer might continually be 
 made for her that she might be sustained in her distant 
 field, and a " wide and effectual door opened " for her, in 
 her labors for the Master. 
 
 The impressive ceremonies were then concluded by 
 prayer, and singing these words : 
 
 The Lord thee keeps, the Lord thy sliade 
 
 On thy right hand doth stay ; 
 The moon by night thee shall not smite, 
 
 Nor yet the sun by day. 
 
 The Lord shall keep thy soul ; he shall 
 
 Preserve thee from all ill. 
 Henceforth thy going out and in 
 
 God keep forever will. 
 
 THE PARTING. 
 
 " The programme, with one exception, was now filled up, 
 and tha-t was the most touching part of all — the leave- 
 taking, the bidding adieu, the last kiss, the last embrace. 
 As one crowd after another of men, women and children, 
 of Seminary students, and of students in the male and 
 female colleges, of classmates and other friends, came for- 
 ward to bid farewell with the missionary — some pronounc- 
 ing blessings upon her, others taking their leave with long 
 
 c
 
 40 LIFE AND LETTERS OP 
 
 and tender embraces, others with tears in their eyes, and 
 air looking sorrowful, the scene became so affecting as to 
 move the stoutest heart." 
 
 For himself the writer would say that he never wit- 
 nessed or passed through a similar scene. There are some 
 occasions in life when we witness and experience emotions 
 which no pen can portray. This was one of those in- 
 stances. The awful silence was unbroken save by the voice 
 of the speaker, and here and there a sui^pressed sob. A 
 great weight seemed to be jiressing down upon the souls of 
 all, and men and women sat in their pews in a crushed and 
 hopeless way. When the interest of the occasion reached 
 its culmination, there were few faces in that large assembly 
 that did not bear traces of recent tears. And when the 
 audience broke up and found their way out into the cool 
 night air they looked like men shaking off the incubus of 
 some fearful nightmare. I hope never again while life 
 lasts to pass through such a scene or experience similar 
 feelings. 
 
 It was during the solemn and impressive services of this 
 meeting that Kev. N. E. Pressly, now missionary to Mexico, 
 formed the high and holy purpose to devote his life to the 
 mission cause. 
 
 Perhaps of all present Mrs. Giffen shed not a tear. She 
 sat rigid and stony-faced, as if feeling were dead, and hope 
 perished. Two years afterward she said : 
 
 " To-night is the second anniversary of the farewell 
 meeting at home. I wonder if any of you will remember 
 it. The recollection of that night always throws a shadow 
 over my feelings. I do not think any one in this mission 
 was ever just so situated except Mrs. Lansing, and there- 
 fore this one was not just like other farewell missionary 
 meetings. There were moments while it was in progress
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 41 
 
 when it t^eenicd that human nature couhl not bear any more, 
 and I noAV feel that if a visit home had to be purchased at 
 the expense of such another leave-taking, I -would freely 
 choose never to go home. I have often felt that as for as 
 earth is concerned, I have experienced what it is to die." 
 
 The next day — January 28th, 1875, — brought the last 
 day of her stay under her father's roof, and she passed 
 out over the threshold for the last time on earth. The 
 parting with the family was as sad and heart-breaking as 
 such scenes can ever be. When she bade her mother and 
 brothers and sisters farewell, she hoped some day to take 
 them by the hand once more, and look again into their 
 dear faces. But when she bade her ftither farewell, she knew 
 that it was for the last time, and that she would never see 
 him again until they met before the throne al)ove. What 
 she suffered in these moments Avhen she looked for the last 
 time upon the scenes of her youth, her friends, her home 
 and her family we may never know. Her pale face and 
 set features showed something of the severity of the strug- 
 gle, and she afterward tells us that in these moments she 
 "experienced what it was to die." But before this the 
 cost had been counted, and the sacrifice measured, and now 
 her face was resolutely turned toward the East. 
 
 On the morning of the 28th of January, 1875, the mis- 
 sionary party began their journey to Philadelphia, to meet 
 Mrs. Giffen and Alexander, and there embark for Alex- 
 andria. Mrs. Giflfen was accompanied by Dr. Bonner, 
 secretary of the Board, and by her brother. A series of 
 farewell meetings and receptions to the party had been ar- 
 ranged all along the route. Every mark of honor and 
 kindness that could be bestowed on Mrs. Giffen, both by 
 the citizens of her home and along the way was freely 
 manifested. In Newberry, the place of her birth, her
 
 42 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 father's old friends received her as if she had been their 
 own child. Her father's old slaves, in procession, escorted 
 her to the depot on her departure, and overwhelmed her 
 with their demonstrations of sincere affection, creating a 
 scene rarely witnessed in the streets. In Winnsboro, the 
 home of her eldest brother, a reception was also tendered, 
 Avhile that held in Charlotte, N. C, closed the series. 
 These meetings were very trying and exhausting to Mrs. 
 Giffen, but since they were deemed essential to the good of 
 the cause were endured with patience and fortitude. In- 
 deed with regard to the entire journey. Dr. Bonner, who 
 had contributed so much to her comfort and encourage- 
 ment, writes : " Miss Galloway bears the trial of leaving 
 home and friends and country, with a brave heart and is 
 contented and cheerful." But along the route the writer 
 often detected Mrs. Giffen looking first at one, and then the 
 other of our party in a very unusual way. Her glance 
 was so clinging and piercing that she seemed to be graving 
 upon her inmost soul every line and feature of our faces, 
 that nothing might ever be able to mar the faithfulness of 
 the image, putting " memory on its honor," that the im- 
 pression might be as lasting as its own immortal self 
 
 In Philadelphia our party was received and entertained 
 at the hospitable home of Rev. J. B. Dales, and during our 
 entire stay were the recipients of much distinguished kind- 
 ness. Here the entire missionary party assembled. The 
 time and place of sailing having been changed, the party 
 on the 9th of February proceeded to Jersey City to be in 
 readiness for departure on the morning of the following 
 day. Here Mrs. Giffen was joined by her eldest brother. 
 
 The eventful morning of the 10th dawned clear and bit- 
 terly cold, the river full of ice, and the incoming ocean 
 steamers encrusted with ice to the topmost spar. But by
 
 MRP. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 43 
 
 eight o'clock all were on board, the s^ad parting over, the 
 hawsers cast off, and the prow of the ship turned to the 
 ocean. As the steamer rounded the point at Castle Gar- 
 den, Mrs. Giffen came on deck, waved a last farcAvell, and 
 we saw her no more. We remained on the pier until the 
 black hull vanished in the distance, and then turned sadly 
 away and left the deserted wharf. And now my imagina- 
 tion pictures that black iron ship as some monster bearing 
 her away to some unknown and undiscoverable country. 
 To-day is seven years since, and of the three who made the 
 journey together to that ship's side two " are not" — the 
 Master called them and they have gone to be with Him. 
 " And I only am left alone to tell thee." 
 
 Her last message to her mother, from the ship's side was, 
 " I am afraid I will never write you again from America, 
 and if I would I could weep an ocean of tears, but I do 
 not. Think of me every day, and write me long letters, 
 May God watch over us all, and keep us together in spirit 
 here, and forever together hereafter. All loving thoughts 
 to each one, and a long affectionate farewell." 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 MRS. GIFFEN's first LETTER — THE VOY'AGE. 
 
 "Last ties are hard to be broken, last words hard to be 
 spoken, and last farewells hard to be taken. They either 
 cut deep, long gashes, and leave the torn trembling fibres 
 to ache and quiver for long days afterward, or they turn 
 you into stone. Perhaps there are few in this wide world
 
 44 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 who have not experienced something of one or l^oth these 
 forms of a great sorrow ; few who would not give some 
 real sympathy to one who looked into dear faces Avith only 
 this one distinct consciousness, that it might he for the last 
 time. Leaving home and friends is or may be very sor- 
 rowful on land, but when oceans are to roll between, all 
 that is sad in the one is intensified in the other. And 
 when you come suddenly around some angle and there 
 stands out before you the gloomy old ship which only 
 seems Avaiting to carry you away, how the current seems 
 to stand still in your veins, how the heart seems to refuse 
 its accustomed throbbings, and how many sad old stories 
 of these remorseless seas come trooping through your 
 quivering brain. There stands the black old hull, which 
 in a moment of little faith you tell yourself may go down 
 with you a thousand fathoms deej) into ocean caves ; 
 there are the masts and spars where the storm king may 
 revel ; and there the sails and rigging where the lightnings 
 may leap, and where over all the mad waves may roll and 
 toss and lash you in blind fury. 
 
 So ominously loomed up the Cuba, in our sad imagina- 
 tion, as she stood in New York harbor on the evening of 
 the 0th of February. Ungenerously, no doubt, Ave could 
 not resist the inclination to clothe her Avith a living per- 
 sonality, a hard, unfeeling, revengeful personality. And 
 more horrible than all, is the idea Avhich fills your mind 
 at first sight of Avhat might be called the genius of the 
 ship — its " ma.st head figure." How terrible to make it a 
 woman, a frail, helpless girl, forever hanging there over 
 the rolling sea. There she clings tightly with one hand to 
 the ship, Avhile her Avaving hair and floAving robes bloAV on 
 always in the breeze. With one glance aloft and a laugh 
 on her lips she seems forever defying the sea.
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFPEN. 45 
 
 How sorrowfully we felt as we crossed the gangway into 
 the ship ! To us it was indeed a " bridge of sighs " — with 
 a gulf below which we felt we might never re-cross. And 
 when the last word was spoken and the last kiss taken, 
 how keenly we felt that all ivas over. How much it 
 seemed as if the church-yard breeze were blowing over us, 
 how much as if we had seen and felt our own self laid 
 gently down in our last quiet home, had heard that terri- 
 ble first shovelful of earth fall heavily on the boards 
 above, had seen the red heap outside grow gradually less 
 and the deep vault fill slowly up, till, smoothed and sol- 
 emnly shaped, the last footfall had departed and left it for 
 the springing grass and the falling showers. 
 
 But the leave-taking in the ship was not altogether the 
 last. With a heart full of all sad thoughts we went up on 
 deck to see the last of what was really a beautiful pros- 
 pect spread out around us. We had supposed you all 
 gone, that no doubt you were by that time away ujj on 
 Broadway, but to our great joy there you were, all three, 
 still on the wharf How uninteresting then was all New 
 York spread out around us, how oblivious we were of that 
 brilliant sun gilding a harbor full of rolling ice, how en- 
 tirely forgetful of all save the one warm thought that those 
 who were now the embodiment of all that I knew or loved 
 on earth still stood on the wharf, still looked after us, still 
 had me in their hearts. And though there did spring up 
 a great longing to know your thoughts, thrust back by 
 the remembrance that we could speak to each other no 
 more, still it was the one bright spot, the one happy mo- 
 ment in that miserable morning. And its brightness and 
 quiet joy have not faded out yet. Though we could but 
 exchange feeble signals, yet how full they were of mean- 
 ing and how they cheered me up and gave me new hope 
 and vigor for our long journey.
 
 46 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 We stayed on the hurricane deck most of the morning, 
 two of our party seeming intensely interested in getting 
 the last sight of their country. In the afternoon we came 
 doAvn to the cabin, gathered around one table, took our 
 first dinner on board, and spent the evening in cheerful, 
 pleasant conversation, though about nine most of us felt 
 decidedly called upon to look up rather more private 
 quarters. By morning the tossing had increased and the 
 moans and groans of sick passengers were rather doleful. 
 Two of our party have escaped entirely or almost so. Miss 
 McD. has not missed a meal, but her com2iagnou de voyage 
 has not fared so nicely. Thursday Mr. A. and myself 
 wei'e ever so sick, and towards night it commenced blow- 
 ing quite a gale. That of course increased our distress, 
 and all night long we could do nothing but lament our 
 miserable condition, while we did our best to hold our- 
 selves in our berths. It was indeed a "rough night." 
 Every movable thing in the ship tossed and slided, slided 
 and tossed, rattling and clattering back and forth, up and 
 down the whole night long ; and the poor sick passengers 
 felt that life anywhere, so it w^as but on land, would be un- 
 mixed happiness. You may guess how deeply we sympa- 
 thized with the man who declared while sea-sick that he had 
 but two purposes in life. One, to set his foot on terra firma 
 once more, and the other to find the man who wrote "Life 
 on the Ocean Wave." Seriously, it is no laughing matter 
 to be shut up in a state-room, crammed into a miserable 
 little berth, shut out from the light, and with no breath of 
 fresh air, while you are just sure you never were so sick in 
 your life before. If we had been on a j^leasure excursion 
 things would have looked pretty blue. As it was, we tried 
 to remember that even if we should be sick all the way, 
 even eleven days would come to an end sometime, and that
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GTFFEN. 47 
 
 this was one of things avc were to bear for Christ's sake. 
 But it wasn't a pleasant night even for the few who have 
 not been sick at all. We were all the time "shipping seas," 
 as they say, wave after wave dashing clear over the decks, 
 and during part of the night the whole stern of the vessel 
 was M/;rfer ?mto', compelling them to "lie to" or "heave 
 to " for a couple of hours. This Avouldn't have added 
 anything to our comfort if we had known it, but of course 
 we did not know it, and I venture there is not a soul on 
 board, among the passengers, I mean, who has felt the 
 least sensation of uneasiness or want of safety since we left 
 New York. Of course there may be losses at sea in the 
 safest and most careful of lines, but then there are ac- 
 cidents at home ; danger and death may come into your 
 fireside, but He who made the sea and holds it in the 
 hollow of His hand can rule the storm and guide the waves. 
 Towards evening on Friday the weather grew milder 
 and the sailing smoother, and Saturday morning our good 
 friends dragged us out and up into the air, albeit it was 
 " a hard pill to swallow," for sixty hours of intense suffer- 
 ing left us very weak indeed. The day was fine though, 
 and we gathered up a little strength. Some of our pas- 
 sengers are now on their seventeenth voyage, while there 
 are only a few like ourselves who have never crossed be- 
 fore. All agree, however, that if it is possible they will 
 never try it again in February, for though we have made 
 good progress, owing to the fact that the wind has nearly 
 always been in our favor, it has nevertheless been, on the 
 Avhole, a rough voyage. Saturday night we noticed a 
 steward putting a heavy iron bar across the cabin doors at 
 the stern, and fastening it down with heavy wedges. One 
 of the gentlemen inquired the reason. He said that a 
 month ago perhaps, on the last voyage from New York to
 
 48 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 Liverpool, a heavy gale was blowing and the ship was run- 
 ning before the wind at full speed, sixteen knots per hour. 
 But the waves ran faster still and finally they " stove in " 
 these cabin doors, tore away the " break-waters," rushed 
 down the cabin, and the water was one and a half feet 
 deep on the state-room floor. The fireman shoveled the coal 
 into the engines standing in water waist deep, and all that 
 saved the Cuba from going down was that the guards on 
 the main decks gave way and let the Avater out in that 
 way. That was rather a rough experience but the Cuba 
 is afloat yet, and now they make the cabin doors sure 
 every night against a repetition of such an undesirable oc- 
 currence. 
 
 In bad weather on shipboard it is apt to be right 
 dreary, at least for the first three or four days, but I don't 
 think one remembers the discomforts of a voyage long 
 after it is over. We, two of us at least, have no reason to 
 entertain particularly delightful recollections of the sea ; 
 indeed while we were shut up down in our " lower re- 
 gions," as we call the state-room domains, we felt well 
 convinced that if ever we got over to Egypt we should 
 certainly stay there, for the idea of crossing this old ocean 
 again was not to be entertained for a moment, but with 
 returning health we felt decidedly braver. 
 
 Sabbath morning dawned beautifully bright and clear, 
 and, after breakfast, Bibles and prayer books were distrib- 
 uted through the cabin, a desk was arranged, passengers 
 stewards, sailors, and steerage passengers were all assem- 
 bled, and the captain went through the English service in 
 quite an impressive manner. It really seemed more like 
 Sabbath than one might expect at sea. After service every- 
 body betook himself to the deck except our party. AVe 
 produced our little stock of books and thought and spoke
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY OIFFEN. 49 
 
 of how inaiiy at lioiiie were thinking of and praying for 
 ns ; they in the churches at home and we " on the rolling- 
 deep." Our Sabbath passed quietly away, but towards 
 night another gale si)rang up, and another sleepless night 
 came on. Monday morning it was raining and storming, 
 great waves dashing entirely over us and lashing us on all 
 sides. Only one portion of a door could be kept open on 
 the lee-side of the vessel, and oh what a dearth there was 
 of fresh air. But it was well worth being sea-sick, well 
 worth clinging to door facings and swinging to hand-rail- 
 ings to get one glance at that magnificent sea. It was an 
 ocean of swelling mountains, a sea of smoking volcanoes, 
 rolling and tumbling, tossing and heaving, towering up 
 above us as if they would swallow us up and then sinking 
 away as we rode over them. Now they look like rocks on 
 a mountain side, black as the granite of the " everlasting 
 hills," and now they break and change and melt into the 
 softest green, while the " white cap" of foam and spray is 
 crowned over all. It was a sight which must be seen, which 
 no pen can describe, and which once enjoyed never can be 
 forgotten. There was mingled with it no feeling of fear, 
 only a sense of the keenest enjoyment and a most vivid 
 and powerful realization of the might of him who made 
 the sea and walks upon its waves. To-day it is still 
 cloudy, but we are getting on well, they say averaging per- 
 haps three hundred miles per twenty-four hours. Our 
 voyage will be about three thousand, two hundred miles, 
 and we hope to get to Queenstown by Friday. So remem- 
 bering my promise to let you hear from us by that mail I 
 have worked hard to get up sufficient equilibrium to write 
 to-day, but it is decidedly " up hill " business. At every 
 roll of the ship I feel as if my head remained at the start- 
 ing point, or was gradually lengthened to the extreme of
 
 50 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 the downward inclination, and then was compressed again, 
 the interesting operation continually repeating itself, and 
 table, ink and all seeming to be always running away from 
 you. There is no quiet either ; you are either interrupted 
 every moment almost, or you feel an unconquerable inclina- 
 tion to listen to what everybody is saying around you. It is 
 raining again and a heavy " head wind " is blowing. The 
 ship is closed up on all sides and the passengers look for 
 all the world like children shut up in the house at home on 
 a rainy day. We are bouncing ai-ound in a most uncom- 
 fortable manner, and the spoons and forks, plates and 
 glasses are making most undignified journeys across the 
 cabin floor. Some of the passengers are trying to read, 
 some are singing to a violin accompaniment, some are try- 
 ing to play chess, but the greater part are talking at the 
 top of their speed. But the main business on the ship is 
 eating, or trying to eat. We have breakfast at eight, lunch 
 at twelve, dinner at four, tea at seven, and supper at nine, 
 your correspondent, however, has not taken many meals at 
 the table. There are so many meats and sauces and pastries 
 and such a variety of flavors and odors that I almost wish 
 I might never see meat again, or taste a sauce again. 
 There seems to be brandy in the soup, brandy in the 
 meats, brandy in the puddings, brandy above the table, but 
 especially brandy on the table. Nearly every gentleman, 
 except those of our party, have glass after glass at every 
 meal except breakfast. What a luxury it will be to 
 us to get out of sight of so much drinking. We wonder, if 
 it is introductory to what we shall see on the continent. 
 And another luxury will be to get a good appetite again 
 and some good plain food, without any added flavoring. I 
 know I have thought longingly fifty times about that dish 
 of corn bread we got at Taylor's the morning we sailed.
 
 MRS. MARY OALLOWAY OIFFEN. 51 
 
 Tliere are very few Americans on board. At our table 
 we have a very ])Ieasant Engli^li lady who entertains us 
 with very interesting accounts of men and things in her 
 country. She thinks the Queen " a nice old lady," whom 
 Providence kindly continues between the Nation and the 
 Prince of Wales. Her opinion of him could not well be 
 worse. She declares he does not deserve the name of a 
 man, that he does absolutely nothing but drink and smoke. 
 A Canadian across the table suggested that that was a good 
 deal for one man to do. 
 
 Tuesday evening " the force of circumstances " compelled 
 me to leave ofi^ rather abruptly, and I did not get up stairs 
 until late yesterday morning. I was like an escaping con- 
 vict, detected and remanded to his cell ; but I hope now I 
 am bravely over it all, but Mr. A. is still quite sick and 
 weak. In fact he has had the hardest time of anybody on 
 board, and has now no hope of getting up at all until we 
 get ashore. Very few persons are ever so much affected 
 as he has been, or there would not be quite so much travel 
 over the Atlantic. 
 
 Everybody is busy writing, the mail bag is hanging 
 out to-day and all who are not otherwise emjiloyed, or 
 rather who can stop their writing long enough are guessing 
 when we shall get to Queenstown, but especially when we 
 shall reach Liverpool. In fact there is a good deal of 
 betting on the question, but we are afraid we cannot land 
 before Sabbath morning. I wish we could get in Satur- 
 day night, then we could go and hear Messrs. Moody and 
 Sankey. 
 
 February 23. — The Cuba came to anchor in Queenstown 
 harbor at four o'clock Saturday morning, the 20th. I 
 mailed you letters the night before, and hope they are now 
 fast on theii' way. We shouhl have been in Liverpool by
 
 52 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 ten that night, but were compelled to wait until morning 
 for the tide to put us over the bar. Our last day on ship- 
 board was very unpleasant. A snow storm came on 
 early and the sea was very rough. This kept some of us 
 in our berths all day, and some who got above stairs early 
 could not get down again until late at night. At ten 
 o'clock Sabbath morning the Custom House officers came 
 aboard, and we succeeded in getting our baggage " passed" 
 without any difficulty. A tug-boat then took us up to 
 Liverpool and we were ashore by eleven. Notwithstand- 
 ing some of us had been so uncomfortable on the Cuba, 
 still we did not take our leave of her without some emo- 
 tion. She had carried us safely through quite a storm and 
 through several rather severe gales, and we looked back to 
 her from our tug-boat with a deep feeling of gratitude that 
 a kind Providence had made our ocean home a safe one, 
 and had brought us across the stormy Atlantic without 
 anything " to disturb or make us afraid." 
 
 We took lodgings at the North Western Hotel, as most 
 Americans do, it being well situated for getting over the 
 city, and also being in connection with the London and 
 North Western railway. We found ourselves very greatly 
 fatigued, and with some of us the motion of the shij) con- 
 tinued a long time after we got on land. However, we 
 took luncheon and hastened out to Victoria Hall to hear 
 Messrs. Moody and Sankey. 
 
 Monday morning we set out early for our banker's, Hon. 
 David Stuart, and we must say we were all greatly sur- 
 prised, as well as pleased, with the marked courtesy and 
 kindness there shown us. All the members of the firm 
 were brought in and introduced in a friendly way, and one 
 of the young gentlemen told us pleasantly that he had been 
 " baptized in Philadelphia by Dr. Dales." But pleasantest
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. o3 
 
 of all, he sent me in a letter. Perhaps not everybody will 
 understand how my very finger's ends tingled with pleasure 
 that any one should so remember me m Liverpool, and won- 
 der, too, as to who it could be. Imagine then the real en- 
 joyment, to all our party, when I looked at the signature 
 and read the name of one of our Alexandria missionaries, 
 an unknown friend, an affectionate, sympathetic, Christian 
 heart, thinking of us, sharing our sorrow in parting from 
 all Ave love, and in just as far as she could " bearing our 
 burden." It touched us very deeply, and we felt that a 
 very warm welcome did indeed await us in Egypt. Per- 
 haps some will say it was a little kindness — only a letter. 
 To -its it was very great — " the cup of cold water " to a 
 thirsty heart. We read it more than once, and we took our 
 " sister in Christ " into our inmost heart. 
 
 Business being finished, our banker's son kindly begged 
 to show us over the city and escort us to " the shops," as 
 they call the stores here, and quite a kindness it was too. 
 He took us to an immense house, but while we found great 
 variety we are all about agreed that we do not find things 
 very much less in price than at home. 
 
 Liverpool is a very substantial looking city, everything 
 seeming to be iron or stone. But the objects of greatest 
 curiosity and amusement to the ladies of our party are the 
 English women and the English horses. The former are 
 the most perfect specimens of independence, don't-care-ism, 
 and want of taste that we ever saw in our lives. We have 
 not seen two pretty ones yet, and their costumes, both in 
 cut and color, are almost indescribable. Except in silk 
 they scarcely wear black at all, and they mingle up blue, 
 purple and rose color at a shocking rate. They seem every 
 way inferior to the men, unless it be in apparent strength, 
 and ability to help themselves.
 
 54 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 The horses are fully as striking — the Norman horses, we 
 mean, which correspond to our dray horses at home. They 
 are of immense size, and their feet and pasture joints are 
 large enough for elephanU. They step along as softly and 
 carefully and exactly like a man walking on a frozen street. 
 Their shoes, I am sure, must be as large, many of them, as 
 a jieck measure, and they are attached to drays nearly as 
 large as our " flat " cars on the railroad. These drays 
 really are larger, a good deal larger than the " flats " and 
 box cars on the English railways, and it is almost incredi- 
 ble the immense loads you may see drawn by one of these 
 horses, two being occasionally harnessed to the same dray, 
 but never abreast, always one before the other, and never 
 driven, always led. Occasionally, too, we passed one of 
 these immense drays drawn by a single donkey, our gentle- 
 men declaring the load to be forty times the size of the 
 donkey. 
 
 Of couree there are many things here which are new, 
 strange and amusing to us, and possibly we may be equally 
 as odd looking to those Avhom we meet, but, take it all in 
 all, Ave are not smitten Avith England by any manner of 
 means. Our hotel Avas a good one, I suppose. By the Avay, 
 it is just fronting St. George's Hall, containing, as perhaps 
 you knoAV, one of the most magnificent organs in the Avorld, 
 and having on the facade, I sujjpose you might say, eques- 
 trian statues of Prince Albert and Queen Victoria, each 
 one standing between a pair of huge crouching lions. But 
 all this does not make amends for the miserably poor fare 
 Ave got at the celebrated North Western. TAventy-five dol- 
 lars per day Avould not give you the fare Ave get at home in 
 our second class hotels, perhaps I should even have said 
 third class. After ten days of sea sickness and consequent 
 fasting Ave really needed good food, but Ave certainly did not
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 55 
 
 get it ; aud yet we were cliarged higher than we ever paid at 
 home. So much for the Great North Western. No doubt 
 there are more quiet hotels where we could have gotten 
 better fare for less, but it is true the world over, that if you 
 ask to be recommended to a hotel every man will send you 
 to the most expensive of his acquaintance. If he knows a 
 good second class he won't tell you. 
 
 Well, we have availed ourselves of Miss Campbell's 
 timely suggestions as to what purchases we ought to make 
 for Egypt, got our goods up to the hotel, and, weary as 
 we were, packed ever so hard, closed up our trunks and 
 had them shipped by the " Memphis " direct from Liver- 
 pool to Alexandria, so that we shall not be troubled with 
 anything but " hand baggage " on the Continent. At seven 
 o'clock this morning we bought our tickets for London, 
 " second class," as almost every one does except the nobil- 
 ity, one being just about as comfortable and respectable as 
 the other. The officials took them, punched them, the 
 guard opened a door, thrust us in in a great hurry, and off 
 we went to London. The compartment has not anything 
 like the comfort or elegance of our ordinary cars at home, 
 there being no heating apparatus except a queer, sheet iron, 
 " foot warmer," filled with hot water. We were not at all flat- 
 tered Avith the accommodations, but behold, when we were 
 nearly in London, another official thrust in his head for 
 tickets, and when he had them very graciously informed 
 us that we were in " first class " cars, and 7)iust pay the 
 excess of fare. Of course we complained. It was no fault 
 of ours. We had showed our tickets, were thrust in where 
 Ave were, &c. But no, he politely referred us to the com- 
 pany in London for redress of grievance and pocketed the 
 extra seven shillings, making the full fare £1, 9s., or about 
 $7.25. Their whole system of railroading is on the rather
 
 56 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 contemptible order. The passenger cars are small, dingy 
 and dirty-looking, even the best of them, their box cars 
 are not larger than a good-sized wagon, the engines are 
 little, puny, ugly-looking things, and even the whistle has a 
 babyish squeak. Every one of us made that very remark 
 about it the first time we heard it, so you may accept it for 
 a fact. How much the English might afford to learn from 
 America ! But the country of England is beautiful. For 
 many miles out of Liverpool the meadows were as green as 
 in our summer, and the hawthorn hedges give it the ap- 
 pearance of flower beds in a garden almost. Everywhere 
 thei-e were traces of such careful culture, if only we could 
 have seen the growing crops. I suppose, of course, we saw 
 some castles, or at least the residences of some of the no- 
 bility, with their towers and turrets, and country seats, 
 perhaps, they were. Some of them were very pi'etty, 
 indeed, but we could not say as much for the little village 
 which was always near by. The buildings have almost all 
 such an old, dingy look, not redeemed either by the idea 
 that " classic antiquity" was found about there, but gener- 
 ally the first thought suggested was the smallness of these 
 old houses, the even diminutive looking rooms added where 
 we have large long ells. 
 
 There is such a manifest division into rich and poor all 
 through this country, which is very striking. There was 
 snow on the ground, the fall being heavier as we went 
 towards London, still we saw many laborers in the fields, 
 principally plowing, always with double teams, and never 
 abreast, generally there were four horses in a line. A pretty 
 fringe of trees is planted along every little brook and 
 canal, the channels are smoothly and regularly marked 
 out in a pretty, winding way, the drainage appearing per- 
 fect and altogether the effect is charming. Cold as it was
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 57 
 
 we thought SO often of the delightful summer days one 
 might spend " under the trees " along these pretty brooks. 
 
 But perhaps the most beautiful thing we saw, was a 
 range of hills to the north-east of London, white with snow, 
 glittering in the sunlight and seeming indeed to be part of 
 the sky. Except in form and brilliancy they did not seem 
 other or differing from the clouds, but we left them behind 
 at last and found ourselves running rapidly through the 
 vast suburbs of London. Rows on rows of handsome 
 buildings were everywhere to be seen, and noise and bustle 
 and business were on every hand. CHad indeed were we 
 when we rolled up in the station after our six hours' ride 
 of two hundred miles, and the united testimony of our 
 party was that we never had gone such a distance before 
 with so little personal comfort. The cold was very disa- 
 greeable indeed, notwithstanding they say the mercury 
 here never falls here very much below freezing point. 
 
 In company with several of the other passengers of the 
 C'uba, we took lodgings at Charing Cross on the Strand. It 
 is a handsome building but rather worse for us in some im- 
 portant respects than the one to which we objected in Liv- 
 erpool. The fiict is, we entertained ourselves at luncheon 
 with imagining what our friends in America would think 
 if they could see us sitting down to such a dinner in Lon- 
 don. Of course we get just what we order in all European 
 hotels, but we have learned to be wary of the orders. By 
 the advice of our Liverpool banker, the gentlemen went 
 immediately after to Cook's Tourist to endeavor if possible 
 to get his tickets through to Egypt and also to secure his 
 hotel coupons, by which means we shall always have our 
 lodgings selected, get better meals aud have to pay less for 
 them. -After tea we went out for a promenade on the 
 Strand, and a magnihcent street it is. The displays in the
 
 58 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 shop windows are beautiful indeed, and many of tlie fine 
 buildings have all the signs and fancy adornings in front 
 ends as stars, diamond-shaped figures, &c., done all in gas 
 jet, hundreds and hundreds of them blazing and flickering 
 in beautiful, changing quivering sheen. We walked till 
 nine o'clock, very much enjoying the handsome windows 
 and magnificent buildings and now at eleven o'clock we 
 are in the reading room — there being no ladies' parlor in 
 these splendid hotels — finishing up our letters. But the 
 gentlemen* say, finished or unfinished after such a fatiguing 
 day, we must go up stairs. 
 
 February 26. — We are just starting on our " last day in 
 London." Our first intention, however, was to have left 
 for Paris about half an hour ago, but as we can not get a 
 steamer from either Naples or Brindisi before the 8th, we 
 felt at liberty to dispose of the intervening days according 
 to our own inclinations. It has been snowing heavily ever 
 since we came into London, and, as it melts almost as soon 
 as it falls, we have had a terrible time of it trying to get 
 round to the most interesting points. Yesterday the gen- 
 tlemen secured our tickets from Cook's Agency. We go 
 from here to Paris, lua Dieppe. This will require perhaps 
 six hours on the Channel, but it is considered the prettiest 
 route, and it suited us better in several respects. 
 
 IMonday morning, the 2d, we propose setting out for 
 Turin, Rome, and Naples, so we have a jonriiey of about 
 twelve hundred miles by rail ahead of us. I sincerely 
 hope it may not prove as uncomfortable as the ride from 
 Liverpool. But it has been a most unfortunate time for 
 us. At the American Legation, when we told them we 
 were on our way to Egypt, the Secretary said, " Well, 
 you'd like to get there pretty fast out of such weather as 
 this, wouldn't v*)U ? "
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 59 
 
 But I am more aud more interested in London every- 
 way. I would like to get an American history of Eng- 
 land, and go and stay a week in Westminster Abbey, then 
 carry my book along and stay another in the Tower, only 
 one of the gentlemen suggests : " You wouldn't like to 
 sleep there, would you?" I fully agree with him, I 
 would only want to be in either place when there was a 
 good deal of daylight abroad, for sure I am nobody could 
 close his eyes in composure in the dark in either of these 
 wonderful old places. Even when we are quietly in our 
 hotel at night, I am in imagination continually walking 
 round the monuments, and through the chapels, and over 
 the vaults of those great old kings, queens, crusaders, poets, 
 warriors, &c. Nothing has so impressed me as the Abbey 
 and the Tower, and half the night 1 imagine I am first in 
 one and then in the other. Everywhere you go there is 
 something to deepen this impression. Yesterday we were 
 in the Houses of Parliament, and looking through the cor- 
 ridor leading from the Central Hall to the House of 
 Lords, we stopped before a fine painting of the " Farewell 
 of Lord and Lady Russell." We had seen his tomb, with 
 his full-sized figure in bronze reclining above it in the 
 vaults of the Abbey, and were told by the guide that " he 
 was executed." And in the painting we recognized the 
 stone room at the top of the " White Tower " where he 
 was imprisoned and where the farewell took place. Out in 
 the yard was " the block," and there, I think, he was be- 
 headed. Everywhere you are overwhelmed with the great, 
 the grand, the old, and not less by the blood and suffering 
 mingled in it all. Here is a woman's tear, trembling on 
 her cheek as if it had but fallen there. By her side is a 
 glittering Queen, or some haughty monarch clad in bur- 
 nished mail. On the oj)posite wall the scales may turn
 
 ()() LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 completely, and for a sceptre and crown, there are the axe 
 and the block. But I can not linger over the Abbey and 
 the Tower now. AVhen I have had time to breathe, I will 
 tell you more about them both, as also of other things 
 which we have seen. 
 
 I wish Ave could have been in London over Sabbath, so 
 we might have heard Spurgeon preach. In fact I feel as 
 if the Continental cities would none of them prove of so 
 much interest to us as this one. We have learned the 
 streets and go round all distances with perfect ease. 
 
 We find it very difficult to accomplish very much here. 
 Nothing is open until half-past ten or eleven o'clock, and 
 then all close at about four. The days are so dark too and 
 foggy that gas is in demand almost all the time, unless for 
 two or three hours at noon. 
 
 American travelers tell us we will admire Paris very 
 much more than London. Everything here is so black and 
 dingy. All the monuments in the city squares look black, 
 though they as well as the buildings are very handsome. 
 Nelson's monument in Trafalgar Square is quite imposing. 
 Together with its adjuncts, it occupies a very considerable 
 space. There are two beautiful fountains, four immense 
 crouching lions, and several very large equestrian figures 
 in the square, and all very handsomely enclosed. The shaft 
 is very high, so much so that it seemed to me the old hero 
 might very well weary of his great altitude, forever look- 
 ing down on all the world below. 
 
 Regent street is very handsome, or so we thought driving 
 through yesterday. It is nowhere straight, I think, but 
 serpentine, winding along in grand massive blocks of build- 
 ings on either side, crowded with vehicles of all kinds, and 
 the side-walks lined with all classes, shopi)ing, all stopping 
 outside and making their selections in the shop windows
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 61 
 
 before entering. These windows are beautiful, and contain, 
 in many instances, the greater part of the shopkeeper's 
 goods. Samples of everything he has are exhibited there 
 with the prices marked, and there is, therefore, not only a 
 much better opportunity for the purchaser to make judicious 
 selections, but also very nuich gained to the shopkeeper in 
 the way of his time. 
 
 One thing which interests us on the streets is the Eng- 
 lish shopping Cab, or Hansom. They have tops a little 
 like our top buggy, but are nearer the ground. Instead of 
 an apron in front, there are folding leaves which shut you 
 in, a glass entirely over the front which you may have 
 either up or down, entirely shutting you in if you wish. 
 Then the driver sits up above it all behind, driving over 
 the top, and communicating with his passengers by a win- 
 dow in the top. They are very convenient and comforta- 
 ble, and drive very rapidly. 
 
 About the most difficult thing in London is to sleep. 
 There is so much to excite you in waking hours, that is 
 presuming you are a stranger and devoted to sight-seeing^ 
 that it is nearly impossible to shut it out of your mind at 
 night. Should you succeed after a time and forget your 
 fatigue in happy slumber, why then your bliss is not of long 
 duration, for nearly every church or large building of any 
 importance has a tremendous great clock on it, and every 
 hour, half hour and quarter hour is regularly chimed. It 
 is right pretty, you think, before retiring. Afterwards it is 
 an unmitigated nuisance. 
 
 On the whole though, I suppose we ought to be pretty 
 well satisfied with our stay in London, for though it has 
 been quite fatiguing, yet we are all well, and have really 
 enjoyed most things, the weather and the general gloom al- 
 ways excepted. Perhaps, too, we shall like the English
 
 62 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 better Avhen we get to where we can only guess at what peo- 
 ple say, Avithout being able to answer them at all. At any 
 rate we shall soon see, as in a few hours we propose to set 
 foot on ' La Belle France. ' " 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 BOLOGNA, ITALY. 
 
 " Leaving Loudon and crossing the Channel, we landed 
 at Dieppe Saturday morning at eleven o'clock, and left in 
 half an hour for Paris. Our route ran almost all the way 
 down the valley of the Seine, through the most pictur- 
 esquely beautiful country we ever saw. It exhibited more 
 careful, economical culture than in England. In every 
 spot where a tree or shrub may grow w'ithout lessening the 
 garden ground, there one is planted, and every year's 
 growth of twigs is carefully cut and bundled into sheaves 
 as you do wheat, and used, Ave suppose, for thatching roofs 
 and kindling fires. Such prunings, often repeated, give the 
 trees the general appearance, at this season of pruning, of 
 loAv stumps, but Avhich in spring would branch out beauti- 
 fully. Another favorite style of pruning a different tree is 
 to let it run up very tall, along the little streams, of which 
 there are very many, trimming them to the very top. The 
 houses are very old and quaint looking, and the little yards 
 everywhere alive with turkeys and chickens. And so many 
 old mills, Avith moss-covered roofs, and lazily tui'ning old 
 Avheels, Avhere only slight imagination Avas needed to see in 
 the white ruffled faces some old poet's " maid of the mill."
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY OIFFEN. 63 
 
 The fields were green, and the gardens full of nice things 
 for the table, all of which looked extremely inviting before 
 we got to Paris, for we had only the most meagre of lunches 
 from Friday evening in London to the same time Saturday 
 in Paris. It was cold and disagreeable, too. In fact there 
 was such a storm on the channel that we lay at anchor 
 from eleven Friday night till five Saturday morning. At 
 some places there was a cold rain falling, at others it was 
 snowing, and at Paris everything was white with the snow. 
 Arrived there our vexation increased considerably when 
 we left the cars and could not find a soul who could speak 
 a word of English, and we not three words of French, or 
 rather in a slow way we could make them comprehend our 
 wishes, but could not catch a word of their rapid enuncia- 
 tion. We finally declared ourselves " Innocents Abroad," 
 and soon after fell into the hands of a " shark " who prom- 
 ised to take us to our hotel, and who could speak English 
 enough to deceive us. We got into his 'bus, rather against 
 our wishes, however, rode and rode, and finally found that 
 instead of putting us out at Cook's selection, the St. Peters- 
 burg, 35 Rue Caumartin, he had taken us " to my own 
 hotel, I no understan, I tought I say come here. Monsieur 
 no say. I have good house, good room, Monsieur go up 
 and see. Speak English. Gentleman from New York say 
 he have friends come on dat train. I not know, I bring 
 you here. Rue Caumartin very far, I not know, de coach- 
 man may," &c., to an indefinite extent. We felt very in- 
 dignant, were sure we were dealing with an unprincipled, 
 unsafe character, that we had been impudently defrauded, 
 for we had given him the printed card of the hotel to w'hich 
 persons traveling on Cook's Tourist Tickets are sent, and 
 he had distinctly stated at the cars that though he would 
 like to have us at his hotel, yet he would send us to the St.
 
 64 LIFE AND LETTERS OP 
 
 Petersburg just as well and as cheaply in his 'bus as if we 
 took a cab. 
 
 We felt just a little uncomfortable, held a two minutes 
 consultation, picked up our satchels, stepped past " the 
 vociferating fraud " as the gentlemen dubbed our knight of 
 the 'bus, mustered up all our little stock of French, got a 
 cab for " deux francs," and were soon in nice, quiet, com- 
 fortable rooms, Avhere we felt secure and at home. The 
 clerk in the office, or bureau as they say, was a pretty little 
 woman who spoke English fluently, and so did the waiter, 
 or (jarcon, in the Salle a Manger. 
 
 But we did not go " sight-seeing " in Paris, and therefore 
 I cannot tell you very much about this beautiful city. We 
 went only to Notre Dame, and I must wait till some other 
 time to tell you about that. From there we ivalked back 
 in the rain to our hotel and were so weary that we did not 
 venture out any more. Table d'hote over, we got our 
 Bibles, took possession of the reading room and spent as 
 pleasant a Sabbath evening I venture as any of you at 
 home. Before we knew it was almost eleven o'clock, but 
 we still had plenty of time for sleeping as we knew we 
 could do nothing next morning but get breakfast and get 
 off on the eleven o'clock train for Turin. But for our 
 Cook's tickets I do not see how we should have got on at 
 the stations and along the road. They are printed in 
 pamphlet form both in French and English, and enclosed 
 in a neat little case. They are everywhere recognized with 
 respect, and if we wish to know what train to take, or what 
 direction to go in the station houses, the gentlemen just 
 hold up the tickets to the guards and they point us right. 
 So we got off from Paris more pleasantly than we got into 
 it, but it was still snowing, growing heavier as we ap- 
 proached the Alps. We did not enter them until after
 
 MRS. MARY GAI.LOWAY GIFFEN. 65 
 
 night, but they were white from base to suniniit, and very 
 grand and bold looking against the smoky sky. It was 
 with difficulty though that we saw them at all through the 
 frosted window panes. At jNIadane we reached the Italian 
 frontier, were waked up and thrust out to go through the 
 Custom House again. At Dieppe passports were not de- 
 manded. Here they were asked for provided you did not 
 have a card with your simple address on it, the purpose 
 being merely to learn if you are English or American. If 
 you are, you may " do what you please." If you are not, 
 the scrutiny is more rigid. And again in the cars, w^e soon 
 entered Mount Cenis Tunnel, but of course we could get no 
 impression beyond the mere fact that Ave Avere in it, " under 
 the Alps," and on the classic ground of which we had read 
 and dreamed all our lives. We were in quite comfortable 
 carriages, as they call the cars here, that night, and as the 
 darkness forbade, or rather refused to supply much material 
 for poetic dreaming, we soon left Mount Cenis and its 
 '* eternal snoAVS " to take care of themselves, Avhile Ave be- 
 took ourselves to dreaming of another character. We came 
 by Avay of Dejon, Macon, &c., and arrived in Turin at 
 nine o'clock next morning, distant from Paris five hundred 
 and one miles. Passing on through Alessandria, Piazcenza, 
 Parma and Modena Ave found the suoav constantly increas- 
 ing, and on arriving at this old city of Bologna, the guard 
 opened the door of the voiture and mustered up English 
 enough to tell us to " descend," pointing very significantly 
 to the steps of the carriage and then to the door of the 
 station. We " descended," and then to work to find out 
 Avhat for. After some moments Ave understood that the 
 snow Avas so deep on the mountains between Bologna and 
 Fairenze, as they call Florence, that trains could not pass 
 over, consequently Ave must lie over here. Cook's Tourists
 
 66 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 do not stop over at Bologna and there was no list of hotels 
 on his guide-book, so we knew not where to go. Just at 
 this juncture we were interrogated with, "Americans?" 
 just as we had so often been in London, and on assenting 
 we got a perfect stream of real nice English. It was from 
 one of the station guards who had been six years in the 
 United States. The first question Avas if we were from the 
 North. One of the gentlemen said yes, and on he rattled, 
 telling us where he had been and how much he liked 
 America. He was in New Orleans, he said, when the war 
 commenced, and " they got me in the Zouaves and then say 
 I volunteered. Oh! you know Stonewall ?" While he 
 asked the question a glow of pleasure at the recollection 
 of that honored name spread over his sAvarthy face. I said, 
 " O, yes, I was a rebel." " Oh ! were you ? " and he 
 laughed with a real hearty ring. " Yes," he said, " I was at 
 Chancellorsville when StoncAvall was killed, and at all those 
 other battles. At Antietam a grape shot took me here," 
 laying his hand on one limb, " and when I got well I rund 
 aivay." " You rund away, did you ? " said I. " O yes, I 
 say this not my country. I got nothing to do with this 
 quarrel, and I got out of that." For all that there was 
 genuine pleasure gleaming in his face at talking to Ameri- 
 cans and a real glad sort of a " fellow feeling " sparkling in 
 his eyes when I said I was a rebel too. By this time there 
 was a swarm of great black Italian eyes glaring into our 
 faces, and we got our English-speaking friend to get us a 
 cabriolet and start us off to the " Bologna Hotel." The 
 snow was very deep in the narrow streets, and every where 
 " the snoAv shovelers " were at Avork clearing out a carriage 
 Avay, and banking it up ready for dumping it into the 
 seAvers. They Avere on the roofs of the houses, too, clear- 
 ing it off as fast as possible, as it is such a Avet, heavy kind
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 67 
 
 of snow, that they fear the giving way of the roofs. As 
 we passed " the gates " of the city the guards came and 
 stopped the cab, looked into our faces and said " Ameri- 
 cans ? " to the drivers. We suppose they said yes, and drove 
 on. It is a quaint, queer, old, old-looking city that we 
 drove through. 
 
 So many things had the unmistakable air of the " dark 
 ages." So many old, old-looking churches and cathedrals 
 with the " key and mitre " cut in stone over the door, and 
 great stone figures of Peter standing on the rock and grasp- 
 ing a bundle of brazen keys. On one there Avas " Plenary 
 Indulgence " and other such stuff, in antique Latin, over 
 the door, and sure I am that old church is as old as Tetzel 
 himself At last we were set down at a most forbidding- 
 looking entrance, with no gas anywhere. The hackman 
 gave the bell-rope a vigorous jerk, and out came the 
 proprietor, a waiter, a woman, and a boy. One flew to us, 
 another flew at the gas, and a third jerked another bell- 
 rope. The proprietor could speak enough English to un- 
 derstand that we wanted two rooms and dinner. He 
 started the waiter up stairs with us and then ran to a back 
 door and with many gesticulations ran out a long whispered 
 hus — li — h to somebody behind the scenes. The stair-cases 
 were unswept, and both they and the little dark narrow 
 halls looked as if cut out of the solid rock. But after 
 getting up stairs the atmosphere seemed changed, and our 
 rooms looked very inviting but for the cold. However 
 we would much rather have been in the cars on our way 
 to Florence. We almost felt as if we were surrounded 
 with banditti, for these Italians have rather more of a 
 savage, highway-robber look than one likes, and vou have 
 such an oppressive realization in these narrow, dark, dingy 
 streets that you are not in a Christian country. Grim-
 
 68 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 looking old priests glided along in the streets and most un- 
 pleasantly associated themselves in our minds with the 
 horrible days of the Inquisition, but Ave took off our wraps 
 and concluded to make the best of a bad bargain. Can- 
 dles were brought in and we ordered a fire. The wood, 
 when it came, consisted of a few little sticks and a great 
 hamper of (jrape primings tied up in little bundles, and 
 burned in a porcelain-covered stove made into a fire-place. 
 Table d'hote was soon ready, and to our surprise we found the 
 salle a inanger a beau tiful room and the dinner the very nicest, 
 richest meal we had enjoyed this side the Atlantic. The 
 proprietor did the service himself and soon convinced us that 
 the bustling and confusion on our arrival was just a little 
 " natural flustration " caused by anxiety to do just the 
 right thing for " the American." So we ate our dinner in 
 high, good humor, came up stairs, gathered round our little 
 stove, listened to the jingling of the liells on the donkeys 
 in the snow carts, and the strange, wild shouts of the 
 shovelers, asked each other Avhat Ave thought of ourselves 
 in this queer old city of Bologne, and Avound up as Ave 
 usually do Avith Avondering Avhat our friends at home 
 Avould think if they could but peep in on us. 
 
 Morning came, and Avhen Ave Avent doAvn to breakfast the 
 proprietor enquired hoAV Ave slept, expressing his fears that 
 Ave might have been disturbed, as they AA'ere shovelling 
 snoAV from the roof all night. He told us it Avas a metre 
 deep, and took us out to shoAv us hoAV it Avas banked up in 
 the court-yard. It is more than three feet deep almost 
 anyAvhere, and as the streets are all solidly paved and very 
 narroAV you may guess hoAV the rain and melting snoAV 
 streams down them. Breakfast over, the gentlemen Avent 
 over to the station and Avere told Ave could leave at five in 
 the afternoon, though the proprietor stoutly affirmed Ave
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFPEN. 69 
 
 could not. When we ^vould go, he could scarcely be viade 
 to comprehend that the "Americano" would ivalk a mile 
 through that " very much cold " to the station in order to 
 let the ladies see more of the city. But we got off at last, 
 though the half-melted snow was still falling. It was about 
 the strangest walk we ever had. Such eyes as stared at 
 us! How handsome many of them, and how fearfully 
 ugly others were ! What a set of vagabonds and ruffians the 
 shovelers looked ! and what dark, dingy little shops lined 
 the sidewalks, and last, but not least, what piles on piles of 
 Bologna sausage! 
 
 In due time we were at the station, and, to our great 
 regret had to convince ourselves that our Italiano had not 
 told us more than the truth when he declared we could not 
 get over the mountains to-night. Notice to that effect was 
 posted by the authorities in the station, and the guard 
 would not allow us to pass. Our porter had followed us 
 down in the sure hope of taking us back. He told the 
 rebel guard in a dazed kind of a w'ay, that " the Ameri- 
 cans walked down there," and what was more Ave walked 
 back again and let him drive his hack alone. The pro- 
 prietaire met us at the door, not at all discomposed that 
 we had not accepted his statement of the situation, 
 showed us up stairs, ordered us a fire, and announced table 
 dliote in half an hour. It was nicer than the first, and 
 we concluded we might be just as comfortable here as in 
 Rome in such weather. It is a great disai^pointment 
 though, when we had tried so hard to arrange for three 
 days in that city. It has proved a larger joke than we 
 thought when Mr. A. wrote "snowed in" opposite our 
 names in the register. However, setting aside the deten- 
 tion, we have had rather a pleasant day without any 
 cause of complaint against our hotel — the charges being 
 about $2.50 for everything.
 
 70 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 We are all very well and really cheerful and happy. But 
 the rest of the party are asleep, the fire is out, the clock 
 in a gloomy old church across the street has just struck 
 one, and as we intend making an effort to get off on a 
 seven o'clock train in the morning, I have but five hours 
 left for sleeping. So, good night." 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 NAPLES — THE MEDITERRANEAN. 
 
 " I think I wrote you last from Bologna, but I have for- 
 gotten where it was mailed, as we could not get stamps 
 there in the hurry of our leaving. We got on to Florence 
 Avithout any hindrance from the snow. In fact we thought 
 if we had been in America they would have gone on until 
 they found the road blocked, instead of deciding that it 
 " might be," and tumbling us out so unceremoniously at 
 Bologna. There is very little trestleing on the road, 
 though any deficiency there is more than compensated 
 for by quite an excess of tunneling. Much of the way 
 the mountains were entirely wrapped in snow. It was a 
 cold, grand, cheerless-looking country. Peak towered over 
 peak, crag over crag, and it seemed to us as if eternal 
 silence as well as eternal snow might reign there. Toward 
 noon we began to get out of the tunnels, and to get glimpses 
 of pretty little valleys away down beloAV us, with diminu- 
 tive houses and miniature gardens, laid off and planted 
 with the greatest precision, up to the very brink of the 
 clear, pretty little stream that wound along below us. The
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 71 
 
 snow seemed melting away too. The clouds commenced 
 rifting and the sun broke out in golden splendor, lightino- 
 up the great, black mountain sides, and making their 
 snowy summits glitter and sparkle like diamond crowns. 
 Entering the valley of the Arno, spring seemed to greet 
 us everywhere, and our thermometers ran up from 48°, 
 where they stood in Bologna, to nearly 60° as we held them 
 out of the carriage windows. 
 
 We had not intended stopping at Florence, but there 
 are so few trains on these Italian railways, we found our- 
 selves compelled to lie over from the afternoon till ten 
 at night. To add to our perplexity we could not find the 
 right department of the endless station-house for our train 
 to Rome. Each of the three classes of passengers here 
 has its own offices, waiting-rooms, luggage-rooms, &c., into 
 which no traveler of another class is permitted to enter. 
 This, of course, requires the station-houses to be just three 
 times the size which seems necessary to us, besides which there 
 is a station for trains from the same points which pass through 
 different intermediate points. After quite a walk round the 
 depot, we found the right corner, got our satchels weighed, de- 
 posited and receipted, and immediately set off for a walk 
 over Florence and a visit to the Uffizi and Pitti Palaces. 
 When we were tired walking, and had des])aired of gettino- 
 policemen to give directions as to the way, we took a cab, 
 showed the coachman the names of the palaces in our 
 Cook's Guide, and were soon over the Arno, out of the 
 cab and walking up the piazzi or open square in front of 
 the palaces. Some other time I will tell you my impres- 
 sions of what we saw, or as nearly as I can what all the 
 splendor of the place is like. We walked and walked 
 through the grounds, hoping every half hour would take 
 us round, and always finding an avenue of more magnifi- 
 
 D
 
 72 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 cence, a vista of greater beauty, a prettier lake, or a more 
 charming little island, till tired nature pleaded for weary 
 limbs, and we sought anxiously for an exit out of the wonder- 
 ful place. I do not remember to have ever seen four more 
 thoroughly exhausted people than we were when we got 
 back to the Station Hall and threw ourselves down on the 
 divans to await our dinner from the adjoining Buffet, as 
 they call the restaurant in Italy. But beefsteaks and cafe 
 an lait soon " set us to rights," and a nice warm lire and 
 cheerful conversation finished up very pleasantly what had 
 jjromised to be a long, dull evening. 
 
 Once in our compartment, we settled ourselves for the 
 night. A shilling in England, or a lira in Italy, dropped 
 into the hand of a guard ensures you the carriage for your 
 party unless there is an unusual number of passengers, and 
 this night we tried the merit of the arrangement. Unlike 
 in America, there is here no conductor on the trains. 
 The carriages or compartments are sections of the coach 
 with two seats running from side to side, sufficient to ac- 
 commodate eight persons, who sit facing each other. This 
 of course necessitates half the party to ride " backwards." 
 First-class compartments are furnished in about the style 
 of our ordinary trains at home, except that they are 
 scarcely lighted at night and have no heating apparatus 
 except for the feet — hot water in iron cases. Second-class 
 is plainer. The seats are covered with oil-cloth, there is 
 no foot-warmer, and occasionally there is an opening at 
 the ends which permits you to look, Avhen standing, into 
 the compartment before you. This is very unpleasant, 
 owing to the almost universal propensity of Europeans to 
 smoke when traveling-. But we have not found it verv 
 comfortable on any class train at night. Warm and pleas- 
 ant as it was in Florence during the dav, we reallv suffered
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEX. 73 
 
 that niglit, though we thought we had an abumUint sup- 
 ply of shawls, and had we been compelled to share our 
 compartment with others, it would have been much worse. 
 We made the best of it, however, shook ourselves up when 
 the lazy daylight dragged itself along, rubbed our sleepy 
 eyes, held an interesting discussion as to what we should 
 have for breakfast, gathered up our stray ])roperty and 
 held ourselves in readiness for the first glimpse of the 
 Eternal City. Not much of the grandeur of Rome, how- 
 ever, is visible on entering by our route. It takes you in, I 
 think at the south-eastern extremity, away from most of the 
 classical portion of the city, and, any way, we were irreverent 
 enough to defer " im])ressions " until after breakfast. By 
 half-past nine A. M. we were set down at our Hotel Al- 
 bergo d'Allmague ; and not very long thereafter we started 
 for the coffee room. Refreshed and invigorated, we soon 
 made out our programme for the day, for instead of the two 
 days which we had certainly counted on for Rome, our 
 unfortunate detention now limited us to this one. We 
 took a handsome open carriage, with a span of spirited 
 horses and a rather intelligent Italian coachman, all for 
 two francs an hour, and set out bravely " to do Rome " in 
 part of a day. But this, too, I shall keep to tell you some- 
 time when I feel a little more like writing than I do to- 
 night. We got back just in time for table d'hote, cold, 
 weary and hungry. Dinner over, we exchanged impres- 
 sions, wrote a little and soon betook ourselves to our pil- 
 lows, ready for an early start next morning to Naples. 
 
 This was Saturday morning, 8th of March, and thougli 
 we had looked forward to Rome Avith so much interest, yet 
 I do not think any of us felt nuich regret at leaving, even 
 though our stay had been so hurried. Till you come to 
 Rome you can never have any idea of how repulsive Cath-
 
 74 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 olicisin m. There it is univers<al, not a nook or corner did 
 vi-e see where it did not rear its head. Priests and monks, 
 monks and priests everywhere. And though we have now 
 left Rome far behind us, we have still quite a superabun- 
 dance of " father confessors " around us. One sits at our 
 table, but to do him justice he is rather innocent-looking. 
 
 AVell, we left Rome about ten A. M., and had a most de- 
 lightful day's travel through the prettiest valley we ever 
 saw. It was the first entirely bright day we had enjoyed 
 in Europe. In fact though, we had had sunlight a few 
 hours in Florence, and for a very little while in the morn- 
 ing at Rome, this was the first clear sky we had seen. Vie 
 very much feared we should have no opportunity at all to 
 see the complexion of Italian skies, but we did. The 
 whole ride was through a deep, green valley. 
 
 On each side the mountains piled themselves up to the 
 sky, with their snow-capped peaks above the clouds, while 
 in the valley it was but one long-continued beautifully 
 green garden. 
 
 Everywhere the peasants, men and Avomen, were busy in 
 the fields, spading, plowing by hand, pruning, gathering 
 up every particle of rubbish, picking salads, pulling up 
 roots, riding donkeys, leading donkeys, driving donkeys, 
 and all stopping, straightening up and gazing at the flying 
 train with as much interest as we of South are accustomed 
 to see thrown into the same performance by a diflferent 
 class of laborers. Much of this valley seemed to be 
 meadow land of the richest kind, and everywhere, even 
 amid the greenest crops, trees were regularly planted, we 
 supposed for the double } urpose of shade from sunmier 
 heat and for trellises for the almost universal vine, which 
 is festooned from one to another. 
 
 We felt as if we were going South very fast, for though 
 it had been warm at noon in Florence, it m as cold in Rome.
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY (ilFFEX. 75 
 
 In fact we could not have hml a worse time for our jour- 
 ney. Deep snows seems to have fallen all over Europe, 
 and the severity of the cold has been much worse than the 
 de|)ression of the mercury would indicate, owing to the 
 terrible east winds and the driving snow and rain which 
 fell at the same time. In Geneva they had not had a fire 
 in the dining-room before in twelve years. We have worn 
 our heavy clothing all the time, and have been none too 
 comfortable with it. But this day we rode with our com- 
 partment windows all open, and the air was as mild and 
 balmy as in our spring. 
 
 At Paracello, fifteen miles from Na])les, we got our first 
 view of Vesuvius. It stood out in bold relief, grandly dis- 
 tinct from the other mountains, great, yawning chasms 
 running down its sides deep and dark from summit to base, 
 while a soft, Avhite cloud hung lazily round its ragged 
 crater. The enthusiasm of one half of the iiarty rose to 
 white heat Avith the anticipation of making the ascent and 
 looking down into that famous old crater. The other half, 
 however, decided that a picture gallery would be much 
 more inviting. We ran almost round Vesuvius in going 
 into the city, and had some beautiful views of the villages 
 which dot its base. At our distance the houses looked like 
 toy castles lying in the shadow of a great, grim old giant. 
 Our first view of the bay w'as rather a disappointment, and 
 the earlier part of the drive to our hotel was through a 
 most miserable part of the city. But as we went on to- 
 wards the middle of the circle which Naples makes around 
 its magnificent bay, the view became every moment more 
 and more beautiful, till by the time we reached the Hotel 
 des Estrangers the most prosaic of mortals could not have 
 resisted the enchantment of the scene. Our balconies 
 opened out directly on the bay, and just beneath was one
 
 76 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 of the most beautiful drives and promenades in the world. 
 How often have we stood out there and drank in the beauty 
 and harmony, the life and gayety of the scene. Across 
 from us, seeming to rise out of the water, stands the solenni, 
 smoking old mountain, forever suggesting what possibilities 
 may lie wrapped up in its awful caverns, while away up 
 and beyond us rise the heights of the city, croAvned with 
 castle-like buildings, white and glittering in the sun-light, 
 and dim and shadowy in the circle of lamp-light, which 
 girdled the city at night. A thousand rays dance on every 
 wave in the bay, every shade, every tint of earth or sky 
 seems to linger lovingly over that quivering sheen. The 
 sun was just sinking below the heights when we went first 
 on our balcony. Not many words escaped us, except to 
 point to some spot which we feared the others might lose 
 in looking too long elsewhere, and we looked and lingered, 
 lingered and looked, and, for the first time since leaving 
 London let table d'hote wait till we were ready. 
 
 Most Americans, we suppose, jmtronize Des Estrangers. 
 At any rate, the stars were scarcely out when the organ 
 grinders were serenading under our balcony. Heard for a 
 few times, their voices seem very fine. I was struck Avith 
 tlie sound of the language in song. Nearly all their names 
 end in a vowel, and in speaking they continue these sounds 
 so much. In singing, everything seems to end in ola, ina, 
 or ia. 8abbath morning they Avoke us with their singing 
 and ])]aving, and whenever we were on the balcony, when 
 tliev thought they had entertained us sufhciently, they 
 woidd i)ull off their caps, hold them up, jablier to us in 
 Italian, and finish up invariably with the ])olite French, 
 " S'il vo us plait." 
 
 AVe are going out now for a stroll on the streets, to look 
 into the shops, etc., get a week day impression of this
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 77 
 
 pretty, airy, gay-looking city. One thing we noticed yes- 
 terday was, that there was not half the business going on 
 that there was in Paris on Sabbath. There we saw scarcely 
 a closed door. Our hotel was undergoing repair and the 
 work went on that day j ust the same as on any other. Every- 
 where it Avas just the same, just as much buying and sell- 
 ing as on other days. Those who could afford the time 
 went to Mass and heard the organ and sermon, and then 
 amused themselves afterwards. Those who could mo< afford 
 the time, stayed at home and conducted themselves on the 
 general principle of, " Business before pleasure." Here in 
 Naples it is not near so much the case, but I have no idea 
 how it is to be explained. 
 
 The lazzaroni here, as in Rome, have beset us every- 
 where. Many of them are as stout and strong, and could 
 earn their living just as easily, as other people, but just 
 listen to them, just only turn your head towards them and 
 oh, they are the most afflicted beings you ever beheld. 
 Just put out your hand to push them out of your path and 
 they are so blind they cannot get out of your way, or so 
 lame that your touch sends them reeling headlong in the 
 street. They roll helplessly in the dust and declare by 
 their whines and groans that you have literally " knocked 
 them down " and are therefore in honor bound to double 
 the number of centimes which are certainly their due. 
 
 We never will forget a professedly lame boy who went 
 through this interesting performance for us yesterday 
 morning, nor how awfully savage he looked after us when 
 neither his entreaties, his being " knocked over," nor even 
 his tears and lamentations commanded the centimes. In 
 fact, independent America cannot form the least idea of 
 the sycophancy of Europe, the everlasting solicitation for 
 a " gratuity." Every public building is guarded. There
 
 78 LIFE AND LETTERS OP 
 
 are wardens, or porters, or "housekeepers" or self-ap- 
 pointed guides at every door. They thrust themselves on 
 you, and perhaps canncjt speak a word you can understand 
 except the names which you can see in the guide books, 
 and then, oh how nuich " righteous indignation " flames 
 out of their great, black eyes, if from one to four francs 
 do not drop into their greedy palms. But we will soon be 
 out of Eurojie, 
 
 We have crossed the Atlantic in safety, if not in com- 
 fort, have traversed the Continent, seen some of its Avonders, 
 enjoyed many of its beauties, and are now ready to embark 
 on the Mediterranean. Kind Providence has kept " the 
 everlasting arm underneath and around us," and, save our 
 detention, at Bologna, not one unpleasant circumstance has 
 befallen us. 
 
 March 12th.— We left "beautiful Naples" Monday, at 
 half-past one P. M., and it was with some regret, for except 
 the Bay and the situation of the city we felt that we had 
 seen nothing. The day was warm and bright, and we 
 looked back longingly at the handsome buildings, the spires 
 and towers, and the crowded hill-tops, all glowing in the 
 wolden light. A small row boat took us out in the Bay to 
 where our steamer was lying, and by two o'clock we were 
 safely established in our cabin, and, for the third time, " at 
 sea." Our steamer was the Africa, of the Rubatino Line, 
 and a very quiet, comfortable boat, though I suppose I 
 should make one exception in favor of voyagers who are 
 not accustomed to pay " tribute to Neptune," and that is 
 the fact of having but two meals per day — unless " black 
 coffee " in the morning be accounted one. On the Cuba we 
 had five, and became very weary of it ; but here they cer- 
 tainly have touched the other extreme. The cuisine of 
 Southern Europe is very different from our preconceived
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. i .1 
 
 opinion?;. There is very much less of brandy, in all forms, 
 and the favorite methods of flavoring are very simple. 
 Here " vin ordinaire " is put on the table, as water is, and 
 the meats and sauces are plain and wholesome. It seems 
 to me quite a nice idea, too, to substitute innocent fruit 
 and nuts, with good plain bread and butter, for the heavy, 
 expensive and troublesome desserts now so connnon in the 
 South — quite as nice as the "plain breakfost" of good, 
 cold bread, butter and coffee which one finds all over 
 Eurojic. At first, we saw it with some dismay, but now I 
 would not wish anything nicer. I think, in fact, it would 
 afford me real satisfaction to introduce a reform in the 
 dining rooms at home, and though there might be a revolt 
 at first, the new regime would soon become very agreeable 
 an(:l beneficial in a hygienic point of view. 
 
 After breakfast all who can betake themselves to the 
 deck and while away, (as best they can) the long hours, 
 till the musical ring of the dinner bell at four summons 
 them to a more interesting employment. Then comes a 
 pleasant promenade on the deck again, in the soft evening 
 air, which is really very delightful. The two evenings 
 " your correspondent" was so fortunate as to enjoy under 
 these circumstances, we remained above until " the stars 
 were out " and the moon in the sky. The first night Ave 
 leaned over the side of the ship and looked long and 
 quietly at the million of diamond sparkles in the rolling 
 waves, our thoughts going back tenderly, in that soft even- 
 ing hour to those " near and dear" in our far away Amer- 
 ican homes. Around us was a motley group. Here as 
 everyAvhere else priests were gliding around. Indeed their 
 repulsive black robes do seem to be ubiquitous. One sits 
 by us at table, and looks the very picture of innocence, 
 altogether as if there had never been a Jesuit, and never
 
 80 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 would be another Inquisition if he had his way. He and 
 others of his " craft," under the guidance of a very 
 Bishop of Holy Rome, are going on a pilgrimage to the 
 Sepulchre, and evervAvhere they are gliding — I had almost 
 said stealing — about the ship with their devotional books 
 before their eyes, or else their devoutly bent heads and 
 whispering lips ])roclaim the pious elevation of their 
 thoughts to every beholder. To-day, Friday, is a fast day, 
 and of course they are somewhat exercised about their 
 diet — not being more inclined than others to miss the two 
 meals afforded by the ship. The Bishop informed some of 
 the passengers that it was permitted— /lee^ — to eat as oth- 
 ers Avhen they Avere traveling, (a convenient religion, is it 
 not?) but still they have just taken their dinners alone on 
 soup and maccaroni, and this morning breakfast was made 
 without meat for their consciences' sake. But contrary to 
 what we would expect, the Africa with all its mixed na- 
 tionalities is an extremely quiet boat. Not a loud word is 
 spoken anywhere. The crew is the most silent set of rough, 
 unhappy, poverty-stricken looking creatures I ever saw. 
 
 Tuesday morning at sunrise we passed through " the 
 straits" of Messina, with " Scylla on the one hand and 
 Charybdis on the other." It was such a morning as one 
 sees rarely throughout even a lifetime. The Mediterra- 
 nean with its changing hues, now green, noAv brown, was 
 then of the deepest, clearest blue, just as was the cloudless 
 sky overhead, while the brilliance of the early morniug 
 sun was almost overpowering. The Straits are very nar- 
 row, and seem just a little ahead of the ship to come en- 
 tirely together. On each side the scenery is magnificent. 
 I think we agreed with each other, that not even the Bay 
 of Naples was finer. The latter seems very much alike 
 round a great part of its semi-circular form, but at Mes-
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY CiTFFEN. 81 
 
 sina the view was always changing, always new, and so 
 boldly, beautifully picturesque. The mountain peak.s 
 towered grandly uj) everywhere, and there seemed to be 
 one continuous village along their slopes. Mount Etna came 
 into view early in the morning, and seemed to be a great 
 white dome on the summit of an immense cone. At four 
 P. M. we would pass very near and be able to secure an 
 excellent view, but the blinding glare of the sun, and 
 wind, and, above all, " the pitiless sea," drove me from the 
 deck, with a feeling that a dozen Etnas would not take me 
 back up there. Indeed, I " surrendered unconditionally," 
 without any expectation of seeing either deck or table 
 any more till we should be ready to go ashore, but to my sur- 
 prise all our party spent the last day up stairs most pleas- 
 antly. AVe passed near the scene of Paul's shipwreck, 
 looked at the precipitous cliffs of the Island of Crete, and 
 thought as we looked at a pretty white village away up 
 above the waves, of the great Apostle's reiteration of the 
 poet's assertion, "The Cretans are always liars." 
 
 Friday morning we knew that we were not far from our 
 long looked for destination, that we would see the light- 
 house perhaps by ten or eleven o'clock, and our thoughts 
 and conversation were so occupied with Egypt and our 
 future life and work there, that we did not feel at all like 
 going down to our rooms, but we were told that the en- 
 trance to the harbor was a very dangerous one, and was 
 attempted only in daylight, that ships always lie to and 
 wait for morning. So we concluded to take things quietly, 
 go to sleep, and wake up as fresh as possible for the first 
 glimpse of Alexandria. And now here we are at nine 
 o'clock Saturday morning lying in the harbor, the gentle- 
 men having gone ashore to find Mr. Ewing, and the ladies 
 contenting themselves as be.st they can by finishing up their
 
 82 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 letters before taking more than a Ijird's eye view of this 
 strange city. In an hour or two- we hope to be in the 
 home of some of i)ur friends, and to feel that, at least for 
 a time, our wanderings are over. 
 
 \ 
 
 CHAPTER VI I. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 " At ten o'clock last Saturday morning we found our- 
 selves on Egyptian soil. Going on deck all sorts of strange 
 sights met our eyes. The city lay stretched out before us 
 with its mosques, domes, turrets and towers. Just to our 
 left was one out of the many of the Viceroy's splendid 
 palaces, and the whole view on the shore as well as in the har- 
 bor, had an indescribable something about it which was 
 diiferent in its effect from anything we ever saw before. 
 Arabs were walking leisurely around the deck, while be- 
 low dozens of row-boats with their swarthy rowers were 
 swarming around the ship and keeping the sharpest " look 
 out" for any simple fish which might drop into their shark- 
 like jaws. One of these natives was standing at the head 
 of the stairs when we came up laughing all over his yel- 
 low face at the idea of getting such a cargo to the wharf On 
 my inquiring of the gentlemen if he were a Copt he laughed 
 more broadly still and answered himself in broken English, 
 " I your boatman." He wore a crimson turban, and a loose, 
 clean, white robe, I suppose I might call it in the absence 
 of a better name, fastened in at the waist with a crimson 
 girdle made of several yards of cloth twisted and bound
 
 Mrs. MARY OALLOWAY (ilFFEN. 80 
 
 tightly around tlie person. The dress of this one was very 
 8hort, reaching but little more than below the knee. The 
 other rower was clad in the same primitive style except 
 that his " outer garment" was dark blue. No two looked 
 alike, in fact of all the nondescript styles of dress for mhi 
 that ever we saw we concluded that these were either the 
 worst or the best, the highest or the lowest. Then when 
 we stepped ashore such a Babel ! — such an Arabic Babel ! 
 How they gesticulated and screamed and literally yelled 
 in our faces, and how angry they seemed. Yet that we 
 found was only the Arab style of being " in earnest" — 
 driving a bargain. Our missionary friends understand 
 this species of humanity of course, and they pushed through 
 them and took us directly to the Custom House, a Coptic 
 officer of which had come from the shore to the ship in 
 order to keep Messrs. A. and G. in sight until all oui- pass- 
 j)orts should be forthcoming. He kept right at our elbow 
 until all forms were duly complied with, and we furnished 
 with small squares of tin in order to admit us into the 
 city. Mr. Strang took a carriage for us, got us and our 
 luggage into it amid a torrent of deafening gutturals about 
 the price, quietly handed the driver what he knew to be 
 (piite sufficient, though it was but one-third of his demand, 
 and then read in his eye that it was one shilling more than 
 he expected to receive. ' And now our eyes began to dilate 
 more and more. One of us, at least, might have sat for a 
 picture of Wonder, another for Amusement, and perhaps 
 one might have passed for Disgust, while the fourth one 
 was taking position as Philosophy. 
 
 The carriage just wound about in the narrow crooked 
 streets with often only room to creep past the people walk- 
 ing, turning this way to avoid driving over a poor Arab 
 asleep in the sun beside his basket of bi-ead and eggs.
 
 84 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 snoring away undistiu'bed by the swarm of flies which was 
 very energetically engaged in exploring the unknown re- 
 gions of his wide open mouth ; now turning that way to 
 keep off" an old woman's feet as she cried her basket of 
 \'^getables and shouted, " Keep oif : Do you not know this 
 is the market? " Now we turn into a wider street, and the 
 driver calls into requisition all his skill to get past asiream 
 of donkeys, drays, carriages, dogs, men, women and chil- 
 dren, all the time screaming to them, " Keep out of my 
 way and I'll keep out of yours! " On every side were queer 
 little shops, Avith queerer-looking shop-keepers. Perhaps 
 the whole " stock in trade " would be a half dozen bushels 
 of nuts in one, or a bushel of apples in another, a few 
 baskets of native beans in a third, a handful of tobacco in 
 a fourth, some ugly cheese in a fifth, etc., &c. All the 
 shops are raised two or three feet from the ground, and the 
 jji-oprietor or salesman sits in the midst of his goods. Here 
 would be somebody cooking on the street, there a man tak- 
 ing his breakfast. Here was a shoemaker plying his trade. 
 Beside him might have been a repairer of old water bags 
 made of entire goat skins. Here was a dyeing establish- 
 ment, with the wet goods hung in the street to dry. Here 
 a case of jewelry, perhaps out in the street, with the 
 owner sitting on the ground beside it holding an umbrella 
 over it or himself, or may be both. Here is a native 
 woman in a rose-colored silk dress. There is another in a 
 light blue one. Both are in Frank* style except that they 
 wear a white cloth over their heads instead of a hat. But 
 the most marvelous of all was the peculiar native dress, or 
 veil rather, for the women, which is sometimes white, but 
 oftener black and blue. When black it is very, very dis- 
 mal looking, and when white it gives one the sensation of 
 *Egyptian term t\n- Fureigx as opposed to mitlir.
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEX. 85 
 
 having ^^een a ghost. It i.s called the habarah, and is, in 
 shape, like a sheet I think. They put it over the head, 
 bring it round in front, letting it reach to the feet all 
 round, lap it over and push it under a belt at the waist, 
 leaving some freedom to the arms. Of course then it gives 
 a straight corpse-like figure which is startling when, as we 
 did this morning, you happen to stumble suddenly u])on 
 three or four pure white habarahs gliding along the street. 
 But, as if this costume were not yet sufficiently hideous, 
 they fasten a piece of cloth over the face just below the 
 eyes by means of a reed Avhich is placed up and down the 
 forehead, and which is ornamented with a number of gold 
 rings. I never see one of these reeds on a woman's fore- 
 head without being forcibly reminded of the yokes Avhich I 
 used to see put on the heads of unruly animals to reduce 
 them to submission — not that there is a resemblance in 
 form, but it seems so uncomfortable to be boiind up in that 
 close ugly fashion. They regard it a great disgrace for 
 the mouth to be exposed, particularly for profane eyes to 
 witness such a modest, refined performance as an Arab 
 woman taking her meals. She keeps her veil down and 
 stealthily conveys her food bit by bit to her lips, under its 
 thick folds. But no description can do one of these 
 habarahs justice. 
 
 But to return to our drive to the Mission House. We 
 reached there of course in much less time than I have 
 taken to tell you about it, and found a warm welcome 
 awaiting us. I am sure you can imagine our sensations 
 better than I can describe them. I am sure I was scarcely 
 conscious that I had never met any of the Missionaries 
 before, and not for one moment did I feel inclined to in- 
 dulge in any form of homesickness, that terrible malady 
 which has always heretofore attacked me most violently on 
 first finding myself in a new and strange situation.
 
 86 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 It is rather a queer thought, though, that America is not 
 to be our home any more; that here we are to live and 
 work, and if God will, die here." 
 
 The mission to Egypt was commenced in the year 1854. 
 In the fall of 1853, Dr. J. G. Paulding, of the Associate 
 Reformed church mission at Damascus, visited Egypt to 
 ascertain if a mission could be successfiilly established in 
 that country. His impressions were decidedly favorable. 
 In 1854 Rev. Thomas McCague and wife sailed for Egypt 
 to inaugurate a mission. They were soon joined by Rev. 
 James Barnett from the Damascus mission. In two years 
 afterward Dr. Lansing from the same mission was located 
 at Alexandria and Avas assisted by Mr. John Hogg, (now 
 Dr. Hogg), of Scotland. Miss Sarah Dales, (now Mrs. 
 Lansing), also of the Damascus mission, soon joined them. 
 This was the incipiency of the mission, and nearly every 
 year since has witnessed some increase of the working 
 force. 
 
 In regard to this mission, Dr. Monfort, of the Herald 
 and Pre><br/ter, says : " Before I went to Egypt I had heard 
 it as the judgment of missionaries of the American Board 
 in Turkey, and of the Presbyterian Board in Syria, that 
 the Avork of the United Presbyterian Board in Egypt was 
 very prosperous and hopeful, and that the missionaries in 
 charge were highly qualified and very efficient. With as 
 nuich deliberation as I ever expressed an opinion, I must 
 say that these persons, taken together, as a band of laborers, 
 are entitled to the first rank among laborers in the foreign 
 field." Drs. Barr and Stewart who were sent out by the 
 U. P. Board of Missions, to inspect their missions, say in 
 their report : " From our survey of the fields and the work, 
 Ave Avould here testify to the faithfulness and efficiency of 
 our missionaries, both male and female, and express the
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY rJIFFEN. 87 
 
 conviction that there are few, if any, more successful 
 missions under the care of any church, than our own in 
 Egypt." " The missionaries select great centres and 
 operate in these, and from these. On the Sabbath they 
 preach regularly in the churches or stations. They make 
 use of schools, colleges and other institutions of learning. 
 Orphanages and hospitals are established. Itinerating 
 tours are made. Books and tracts are distributed. General 
 visitation is done, and supervision exercised. House to 
 house visitation or Zenana work is performed by the female 
 missionaries." 
 
 This then was the mission into which ^Irs. (rifien had 
 entered and these her fellow-laborers in toil. The present 
 statistics of this mission, are as follows : 
 
 Foreign luissionaries, male and female, 21 
 
 Native ministers, 11 
 
 Teachers and helpers, 124 
 
 Total working force, loO 
 
 Communicants, 1140 
 
 " I know you are quite anxious to hear our impressicnis 
 of Mission Work in Alexandria, and I am equally as 
 anxious to tell you how much gratification and encourage- 
 ment our first Sabbath here afforded us. The previous 
 afternoon, just on our arrival at Mr. Ewing's, the native 
 pastor, Aboona Buktor, called and was introduced to us. 
 He was formerly a priest in the Coptic Church and is still 
 so called, Aboona being the Arabic term. He greeted us 
 in a very warm, friendly way, and seemed quite as much 
 interested as the missionaries in our arrival. He is a tall 
 slender man of quite brown complexion, and was altogether 
 in native dress. You may imagine that we looked at him 
 with peculiar interest. His presence was a most convincing 
 argument of the success of Missions here, for had he
 
 88 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 remained in the Coptic Churcli lie would now have been 
 Patriarch. On leaving he extended us the usual good-bye 
 — May your evening he blessed, and added " God be praised 
 that you have come in peace ! " iSabbath morning at eight 
 o'clock we were off for Arabic service. On goinc^ in we 
 found one-fourth of the church curtained off from the rest 
 for the women, by means of a temporary arrangement 
 Avhich is easilv removed when our service is over. Here 
 we took our seats, amid, or rather in front of, those strange 
 looking women and heard our first Arabic sermon, Mr. 
 Strang occupying the pulpit for the day. I think I may 
 safely say I was edified, notwithstanding I did not catch 
 one single articulate sound from the sermon. The stillness, 
 the perfect quiet of the audience was marked. There was 
 not a sound other than the preacher's voice save the welcome 
 rustle of the leaves as the men looked up every passage 
 referred to in the sermon. The singing was really beautiful, 
 veiy smooth and nuisical, and every way so much nicer 
 than we heard an hour later in the English service. There 
 Avere perhaps sixty or sixty-five natives present, of whom 
 thirteen were women. After service Mrs. S. introduced 
 me to all the latter as "8itt Gededa" — the new lady — and 
 they shook my hand quite cordially. The little girls first 
 touched my hand with their lips and then raised it to their 
 forehead, which is a form of salutation used by inferiors. 
 The women, of course, all wore habarahs, either white or 
 black, and nearly all had on quite an amount of jewelry. 
 One of them had at least half a dozen strands of pearls in 
 her necklace, immense sprays of them for earrings, and two 
 or three very large rings on her fingers, also set with them. 
 A native woman's earrings, by the way, must be seen to be 
 appreciated. These were almost the size of the palm of 
 your hand. The men, of course, constituted much the
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 89 
 
 more intelligent part of the audience. They were very 
 l)right looking — several of them quite handsome in fact. 
 Perhaps half of them were in Frank dress — except the 
 tarboosh, which is never discarded. They lingered around 
 the gate a few moments and were introduced to us. Almost 
 all made some pleasant little remark which our friends 
 translated for us, and one or two greeted us in very pretty 
 English. About ten of the women are mem'bers of the 
 church, and probably there is an equal proportion of the 
 men, but of this I am not sure. Anyway it was a cheering 
 sight, those native women once so ignorant, now regular 
 attendants and members of a Protestant church, and those 
 self-righteous Coptic men, now such careful, attentive, 
 intelligent hearers of the Gospel of Jesus Christ I 
 
 After I learned the al})habet and began spe/liiig a little, 
 Mrs. Ewing proposed taking me with her, partly for the 
 exercise but principally that I nught accustom my ear t<> 
 native accent and pronunciation. I was at first very 
 reluctant to go. I could not overcome my repugnance to 
 the idea of riding a donkey, and I dreaded the interior of 
 native houses. I suppose I had a little wicked feeling that 
 it would be time enough to go among them and take their 
 famous coffee and other refreshments when I knew their 
 language somewhat and could urge duty as a plea for 
 submitting to the infliction. However, Mrs. E. continued 
 to urge me, saying that she did not know how to explain 
 it, but she always came back from there Avith such a 
 bouyant, cheerful feeling, that she was sure it did her good 
 to go, and that the other ladies felt the same way about it. 
 In a desperate sort of a way I at last consented, the donkeys 
 were ordered, and Mr. Ewing went down to see us off. The 
 miserable little things do not look much more than twice 
 the size of the saddle, and are very little taller than the
 
 90 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 top of a chair. Well, yes, I suppose that is a little 
 exaggeration of their diminutiveness and general insignifi- 
 cance, but really their ears do seem to be a very large part 
 of them. The saddles are, like most other things here, a 
 peculiarly oriental institution, not like anything you ever 
 saw in the Western World. There is a frame of some kind 
 to which the stirrups are attached and the rest is cloth and 
 wadding. There are no " ladies' saddles " either. Native 
 men and women all ride alike, but for Frank women they 
 knot up the superfluous stirrup, and the pommel of the 
 saddle answers the purpose of our " horn." 
 
 JNIy introduction to my first donkey did not greatly 
 prepossess me in his favor, though I suppose he was a fair 
 specimen of his race. If any living creature ever did look 
 like " patience on a monument" he did. It was decidedly 
 fair to say he looked all " ears, saddle and bridle," for he 
 wore two of the latter, though it seemed to me fine ironv 
 to suppose that one was not more than sufficient to manage 
 him. To add to his ungainliness he had very recently been 
 b((th "shorn and shaven" and "his bones stood out." The 
 donkey boys assured us they were fine fellows, and after a time 
 Mr. Ewing got me into the saddle, gave me the reins and 
 I started. The little fellow impressed me as being very 
 weak in his constitution, at any rate in his back and limbs, 
 but they all said he would improve after we rode awhile. 
 We turned the corner and went about fifty yards, when 
 they both commenced pacing very nicely indeed. There 
 was a large stone building going up very near us, and many 
 of the fragments were lying around ; just when I was 
 beginning to repent some of my harsh judgments about my 
 donkey he struck his foot on a stone, fell sprawling, tumbled 
 me over in the dust and wound up by rolling over on top 
 of me. The donkey boys pulled him up pretty soon, said
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 91 
 
 nice things to liiin in Arahic, and I j)icke(l myself \\\) with 
 the impression tliat 1 had a very badly sprained ankle. 
 One of* the workmen ran out very kindly with a cup of cold 
 water, and Mr. Ewing very soon came to our relief. In a 
 few minutes I found that I was only bruised a little and we 
 got on and started again. It was a very pretty ride out, 
 and as you pass through " the gates," by the palm grove 
 and by large fig trees, and get out into the desert one realizes 
 more than ever that you are in an eastern country. The 
 glare of the sun was very trying on my eyes at first. I rode 
 with them closed as much as I dared on my stumbling 
 donkey, not only to shut out the light, but, what is far 
 worse, the limestone dust, which is extremely excoriating to 
 the eye. We stopped first at Al)oona Bukt(n-'s. He lives 
 in a large stone house — that is, like other people, he has a 
 suite of rooms, perhaps one floor of a house ; and although 
 the stairway looked very forbidding, yet we were shown 
 into a nice plastered ro(Mn, with high ceiling and good 
 window s. There was a very neat set of plain parlor chairs, 
 one or two tables and a divan, extending the whole length 
 of the room. On this sat the Aboona writing a sermon. 
 His Bible and some other books lay beside him. He and 
 his wife received us very cordially, inquired for " our state,' 
 etc., etc. Immediately the Sitt went out and ordered 
 refreshments in the shape of a glass of tam-a-ra-hind. It is 
 a concoction jieculiar to the East, and is not quite as palatal)le 
 as bad vinegar and water. It was well sugared, but we 
 did not see the process of putting in that ingredient, though 
 there were no spoons in sight. I held my breath and drank 
 hard. The Aboona then inquired after my progress in 
 Arabic, wished to know my particular difficulties. Mrs. 
 Ewing told him I was past b-a, ha, b-o, bo, etc., and that I 
 was getting on respectably. He said iy-ib, (good) and smiled
 
 92 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 on me approvingly. Then he had his wife to bring in their 
 wallad and hint, (boy and girl ) for us to admire, and in fact 
 they were very good-looking children. They and their 
 mother were in a kind of a half Frank style, and did not 
 look so badly. Having made our compliments to them we 
 mounted our donkeys and rode on to the next house, Avhich 
 was also a second story. There is always a heavy iron 
 knocker on the door at the foot of the stairs, and if you 
 want to go in, where there is no bow-wab, you strike the 
 knocker and call out your name. ^[rs. E. gave this one a 
 vigorous rattle and called out, "Ana, 8itt!" which is 
 equivalent to " I, the lady," in English. 8itt Bista received 
 us vQry pleasantly, and escorted us through the hall into 
 her drawing room. I do not use this last term in any irony 
 either. It was a nice room, and was furnished Avith two 
 very handsome divans. In one corner was a pretty 
 circular tal)le, which with a few very good chairs, completed 
 the furniture of the room. It sounds rather nicely, does it 
 not, these really good pieces of furniture in a Coptic 
 drawing room. It doesn't seem so verv disao-reeable to 
 crawl up on tlutse pretty divans, loll lazily on as nniny 
 cushions as you like to luive about you and look at your 
 full length portrait in the mirror every time you get on 
 your feet. Oh, but my good friends you didn't peep into 
 the kitchen, as we did when we went tlirough the hall ; 
 you didn't see the rubbish of centuries, apparently, ])iled 
 up in there till it got so tldch that the cooking seemed to 
 have been moved out into the hall from dire necessity ; you 
 didn't look into the open bed room door and see bed clothes, 
 wearing apparel, shoes, lamps, books, dishes, withered 
 vegetables, old chairs, torn mats, broken tables, oil cans 
 and every other such thing imaginable, mingled together as if 
 they might have been churned up in a whirlwind for a
 
 MRS. MAKY (lALLOWAY GIP'FEN. 93 
 
 week. You didu'L draw your breath in easily and softly 
 to keep from taking in an unnecessary amount of the black 
 looking dust which has been sailing around through that 
 house ever since it has l)een a house, but last, most and 
 worst of all you didn't inhale the awful odors which breathed 
 around that house ! How anybody lives in it is a marvel 
 to me. I am sure it would give any Frank a fever in two 
 days. 
 
 Well our hostess seated us very nicely, sat down herself 
 and talked in a quiet, easy way for a few moments, and 
 then went out for some glasses of tamarahind. My goblet 
 had unmistakably the dust of a week settled on it, and 
 there Avere not wanting indications that it had been used 
 at least once before since it had been subjected to a bath. 
 I looked at it in dismay, but I decided that delay would 
 be fatal, and immediately I began to drink it. But I got 
 on badly and at length gave it up with half the contents 
 yet in the goblet. Sitt Bista saw it and concluded that Sitt 
 Gededah hadn't learned to drink tamarahind yet, but per- 
 haps might get on better with coffee. So off she went again 
 and made coffee in the hall, the fire being in a little bra- 
 sier, the coffee urn being about a half pint in size, and the 
 cups in which the c(^liee was served about the size of an 
 egg. They are of beautiful china, and instead of a saucer 
 the cup of coffee is placed within another which has a lit- 
 tle pedestal. The coffee is pounded very fine instead of 
 being ground, and to it Arabs add pounded spices and not 
 infrequently nuts also. I contrived to dispose of this de- 
 coction lest a worse should come in its place, and then the 
 Bibles were brought out, a chapter read, and we took our 
 leave. 
 
 The next house made no attempt at style, the divans 
 were there, but the coverings and mattresses were all piled
 
 94 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 up in a corner and there was dust everywhere, but the Sitt 
 was a pleasant j^retty woman, just what would be called a 
 beautiful brunette at home. 8he wore a neat print wrap- 
 per and her house had plenty of good fresh air about it. She 
 is very proud of being able to read and brought in her Bible 
 immediately. I am sure nobody in America ever heard 
 such reading as she did. It would tear a western woman's 
 throat to pieces to thunder out such terrible gutturals in 
 her style. It was stunning, startling and deafening all at 
 the same time. 
 
 At the third house there had been a whirlwind in the 
 drawing-room as well as in the bed-room, and this without 
 any exaggeration. The divan frames were in their place, 
 but their furniture, the tables, chairs, rockers, baby's car- 
 riage, books and everything else were in terrible confu- 
 sion. However they explained that the room had leaked 
 the night before, and, beside, the baby, the last child of 
 eight, was sick and its mother was shut up with it in her 
 bed-room, where the air was truly stifling. The father is 
 a scribe, and is a very handsome man, besides being hand- 
 somely dressed. Indeed it is a handsome family. The 
 baby is a bright, intelligent child, and if it was treated to 
 a moderate supply of warm water and fresh clothing, it 
 would be hard to find a prettier one. He is eight months 
 old and he is engaged to a double cousin across the street 
 of about his own age. I think there are two mothers-in- 
 law in both these families, and they are such looking 
 creatures as one would run from at home, but no matter 
 what they are doing they always kiss i(.s on both cheeks. 
 You may guess how thankful I am that they do not be- 
 lieve in the economical American style of doing it all at 
 once on your lips. Even as it is, it is almost unendurable 
 to catch their breath as they pass from one side to the
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GlFFEN. 95 
 
 other. Botli houses are terrible, I never saw anything 
 like it, and yet all these families are in good circumstances. 
 Their houses are as good as we live in, and if they would, 
 they might be so cozy and comfortable. Still I am sure I 
 could soon become quite attached to these women, and 
 after a little perhai)S I shall not mind their terrible houses, 
 their spiced coft'ee, the dust, the fleas, etc. 
 
 Never in my life I think did I so ap})reciate God's pure 
 fresh air, as when we came down from the hist house, got 
 on our donkeys and started for home. I saAV very clearly 
 why the ladies all felt so comfortable on returning from 
 there. 
 
 Would you like to have some additional " impressions " 
 of Alexandria ? Leaving the bazaars, the " fish market," 
 the orange market, the fruit and vegetable markets, the 
 native shops with their " thousand and one" venders of as 
 many different commodities, you need walk but a very 
 short distance to find yourself in what seems a beautiful 
 European city. You " elbow " your way through a noisy, 
 busy, chattering jam of every nationality under the sun 
 apparently, where there is nothing scarcely that you ever 
 saw before, where you can not throw off the feeling of 
 being in another world almost, and you turn a corner or 
 two, enter wide, well-paved, handsome streets, with great 
 rows of massive stone buildings on either side, and with- 
 out stretching your imagination very much, you think for 
 a moment you are back on the Continent. It is only for 
 a moment, however, for the yellow faces of the natives, 
 their strange costumes, and especially the crimson tarboosh, 
 which gentlemen of every nationality seem to like to wear 
 very soon convince you that you are neither in Florence, 
 Rome nor Naples, but in Alexandria, and that, at least on 
 the square, it will not sufter in comparison with any one
 
 96 LIFE AND LETTERS OP 
 
 of the three former cities. There is a picturesqueness, a 
 novel beauty about the scene on the Square here which 
 has no counterpart in Europe. It is especially interesting 
 to me to creep lazily along late in the afternoon, enjoy the 
 pure, fresh air, and watch these strange, black-eyed people. 
 Tlie Square is enclosed by great chains fastened to iron posts, 
 with here and there an opening sufficient to admit pedes- 
 trians. All round the four sides of the long parallelogram 
 which it forms, runs a wide, handsome street on which open 
 very pretty stores, with large windows filled with ribbons, 
 flowers, laces, jewelry, and the whole of that catalogue. 
 In one window the other day I saw a silver bedstead dis- 
 played, and in another some baskets of beautiful wax fruit 
 and flowers. At the latter I stopped, looked in, made a 
 journey over the ocean while doing so, and walked into a 
 certain department in your College. It was "noon" witli 
 you, and I venture I saw what was going on in that de- 
 partment very exactly. At the head of the Square is a 
 very handsome stone building which is colored very pale 
 blue, and on its front is " Egyptian Telegraph," in large 
 letters which gives you an idea of quite a civilized govern- 
 ment. Just near too the United States flag floats over the 
 the American Consulate, but it is rather difficult to get up 
 much enthusiasm over it, for one rarely ever finds an 
 American clerk, even, in it. The Square is perhaps three 
 hundred yards long by one hundred in width. At each 
 side a double row of acacia trees form pretty avenues of 
 perhaps twenty feet in width, thus leaving a much wider 
 one in the center. In the center are two very nice kiosks 
 for the Viceroy's band which plays there every Friday 
 and Sabbath afternoon, and half-way between these kiosks 
 and in the center of the parallelogram is a very fine eques- 
 trian statue of Mohammed Ali, surrounded by a heavy
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 97 
 
 bronze and iron railing, outside of'Avhicli arecjuite a num- 
 ber of lamp-posts of the same material, each one support- 
 ing four or five lamps. So you see the grand old despot 
 is flooded with this glaring Egyptian sunlight all thx'ough 
 tiie day, and as soon as the sun has bidden him good-night 
 a shoAver of lamp light — I was going to say fell around 
 him, but that will not do, for he is away above the lamps 
 and they shine up in his face, and no doubt cause a pain- 
 ful glare in the old hero's eyes as he looks down on his 
 f|Uondam swarthy subjects. The statue stood there in its 
 [)lace almost a year before " public opinion " would allow 
 it to be " unveiled." jNIohammedans have a great horror 
 of everything which bears the least approximation to any- 
 thing like the worship of saints and images, and for a time 
 they resolutely refused to see any difference between the 
 wish to honor a national hero and benefactor by keeping 
 him visibly in the remembrance of his country, and of 
 making his statue an object of religious worship and 
 thereby robbing Allah of due glory. 
 
 There is always more or less of a throng around this 
 statue, and Avhen the band is in the kiosks, the whole 
 square is crowded, and the effect is almost indescribable. 
 Half the men who are in European, or, as they say here, 
 Frank dress, have on the crimson cap with its graceful 
 black tassel falling fr(Mn the top, and these tarbooshes 
 moving through a crowd lirighten it up in a .way one never 
 sees at home. But the entire costume of the other half of 
 the men is something wonderful. They don every color, and 
 have their suits made up in very gay style frequently. 
 The better class have entire suits of a heavy handsome dark 
 crimson cloth, which is very much worn. It is also much 
 - used in blue, brown and green, especially " invisible " 
 green and a yelloio brown. The waist is tight fitting, al-
 
 98 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 most like the waist of an ordinary coat, thougli tightly 
 closed up in front. It is frequently " faced " with some 
 kind of cloth of gold, or ornamented in various ways with 
 gilt cord and braid. To the belt of this waist the lt>ose 
 trousers are fastened. They consist of ividths and ivldths 
 of the cloth, sewed together like the plain straight skirt 
 of a di'ess, cut long enough to reach down to the top of the 
 foot sometimes, but usually somewhat shorter. At the top 
 it is plaited into a belt, the plaits showing a depth of per- 
 haps half an inch. At the bottom I presume it is simply 
 sewed together, except just enough for the foot to pass 
 through at the corners. In plain terms they are just a bag, 
 gathered in at the top, with a foot protruding from each of 
 the lower corners. The other day when I was Avaiting for 
 my Greek teacher at the Mission House, Mrs. S. went to the 
 study and asked the Moslem Hheikh, who is assisting Mr. 
 S. in the revision of the Psalms, to come to the drawing- 
 room and give me a lesson. He came in, gave me a 
 haughty glance, crawled upon the Divan and sat down on 
 his feet. I was as unceremonious as he, and took an in- 
 ventory of him before beginning. He wore an immense 
 turban of different colors, the tight twists of the goods go- 
 ing round his head ever so often. Then there was the 
 black, outside robe with very large flowing sleeves, and 
 under that was a very handsome silk one, a blue and white 
 stripe, which was belted in with a twist of silk goods in 
 various colors, green, red and yellow predominating. This 
 sash, by the way is an accompaniment of all the costumes 
 except that of the lowest class. His shoes were like slip- 
 pers, made of bright yellow and scarlet leather, tapering 
 to a very sharp point and turning up about two inches. 
 The lowest class wear the gcllibeyah, which is nothing 
 more than a coarse sack, with an opening at each of the
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 90 
 
 upper cornei-s to admit the arms and one in tlie middle to 
 admit the head. Sometimes it has short sleeves set in the 
 openings, and simply an old white cloth Avill be wrapped 
 round the head. Sometimes there will be some effort at 
 shaping this i)rimitive garment. It will have a little f'tiH- 
 ness given it and a pair of long loose sleeves, and the 
 wearer will have on a tarboosh first, and then a Jarger and 
 cleaner white cloth wrapped round the outside. He may 
 possibly wear shoes, but this class has generally no cover- 
 ing from the knee down. Other classes frequently wear 
 very pretty shoes. Indeed I have often admired their taste 
 in this part of their dress, and they almost always have a 
 finely shaped foot. The same is true of the women, too. 
 Under a terribly ugly coarse-looking habarah you will see 
 a beautiful foot peep out encased in a very fancy little boot 
 of some very light delicate color, almost white. Besides 
 the costumes already mentioned, there is another which is 
 very striking in its effect. It is just a long white gown, in 
 shape like the black, outside robe, only it is closed up in 
 front, and generally has long flowing sleeves. It is almost 
 always perfectly clean, in fact of a snowy whiteness, and 
 is made apparently of ordinary " domestic " or " muslin." 
 This, the tarboosh and the shoes are the only visible articles 
 of the costume. 
 
 Now just imagine all these varieties of dress worn by 
 people of every hue from charcoal black, through all the 
 grades of brown and yellow up to the purest Caucasian 
 white, see them all sauntering round the kiosks listening 
 to and enjoying very spirited music by a band of twenty- 
 four performers, all dressed in the military uniform, which, 
 by the way, is a coat and loose pants of pure white with 
 scarlet and gilt straps, braid, &c., corresponding with the 
 tarboosh, then I think you would agree with me that there
 
 100 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 is a charm about it which you never saw before. The trees 
 are not out yet, in fact they give no evidence of budding, 
 and perhaps will not for some weeks. But in summer the 
 square is said to be beautiful. So many birds sing in the 
 trees in the early morning, and the poor old sleepy Arabs 
 luxuriate in the shade, and probably never know any other 
 home. WJien we have been out late in the evening Ave see 
 many of them sleeping, apparently " taking their rest " very 
 comfortably on the pavements around the square, sometimes 
 sheltered by boxes and doorways, and sometimes not at all. 
 There are many " flower sellers " all round there, and I 
 think many of them never leave. We have frequently 
 seen them making up their bouquets at eleven o'clock at 
 night. At one extremity of the square there is a very large 
 hoad of water, like the fountains we admired so much in 
 Italy. It is an immense basin, where many of the natives 
 make their ablutions, and where the " water carriers " get 
 their " bottles " filled. These, by the way, are a strictly 
 oriental institution. Their bottles, you know, are each an 
 entire goat skin, and they go round with that amount of 
 Avater, in those ungainly proportions, thrown over their 
 shoulders, sprinkling the square and the streets out of the 
 mouth of the bottle, alias the neck of the animal, which 
 has this advantage over civilized bottles in that it is very 
 flexible, and allows the carrier to jet it in all directions, for 
 instance, all over you, if you don't get out of his way. 
 
 We live on the third floor here, and the " blue Mediter- 
 ranean " rolls almost under my window. I often stand 
 there, count the sails, watch the changing hues and flying 
 " white caps," and sympathize to the full extent of my 
 " capacity " with those wdio " go doAvn to the sea in ships," 
 and we almost always know some missionary or traveler, in 
 whom we feel interested, who is either on his way to Naples
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. lOl 
 
 or to Beruit. There have been a great numy " rougli 
 seas" on the Mediterranean since we came. At night the 
 wind howls and moans, and the waves dash on the shore 
 with an ever varying but ceaseless dirge. The brightest of 
 "silver moons" shines down on it all, glittering and shim- 
 mering in a diamond shower on every Avave. In the morn- 
 ing the glories of the night have vanished, and I look out 
 on a restless scene. There is moaning and sobbing in the 
 dawning light, as if an uneasy conscience Avere goading the 
 genius of the sea, till a flood of golden sunlight streams 
 over " the heaving billoAvs " and soothes the ruffled spirit. 
 I tell myself sometimes, when I am at my window, that 1 
 never had such an opportunity for cultivating a poetic 
 temperament in my life, but I sadly fear it is all wasted on 
 me. When Byron wrote, 
 
 "There is society where none intrudes by the deep sea, and music 
 in its roar," 
 
 he had never crossed the Atlantic in February. In fact"! 
 think it often occurs that close acquaintance is fatal to 
 sentiment and romance. At least I frequently look out on 
 this famous sea and think how much of both commodities 
 have been wasted on " the waves," and how much " penny- 
 a-line " poetry has been vmnvj'adured " to the tune " of the 
 " sea-beat shore."
 
 102 LIFE AND LETTERS OP 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 EAMLE — SANITARIUM — FOURTH OF JULY EXCURSION. 
 
 " Perhaps you know that we are now in new quarters. 
 
 Ramie is one of the suburbs of Alexandria. It is five 
 miles out, but is connected by rail with the city, a train 
 coming out at the hours and returning at the half hours. 
 Almost all the foreign business men of prominence, espe- 
 cially the English, have their summer residences out here ; 
 in fact very many of them live here permanently, and 
 avail themselves of rail connection to attend their places of 
 business. I have no idea of the size of the place, as it is 
 very much scattered, but it seems quite extended when we 
 look over it from the roofs of our houses. 
 
 The Mission premises consist of four houses containing 
 six or seven rooms each, and a chapel, which was built 
 principally for the use of the Theological students before 
 the Seminarv was removed to Osiout. These buildings 
 occupy two sides of a parallelogram of perhaps 150 x 100 
 feet. Down the middle of the figure, fronting each row of 
 buildings, is a pretty flower garden, planted with acacia 
 trees, young palms and any quantity of pretty geraniums, 
 &c. Some of the geraniums at the sides of the house are 
 six feet high. The " single fish " seems to grow more 
 luxuriantly than any other variety. You can't imagine 
 what a pleasure this little garden is to us, especially as 
 most of us have always been accustomed to more or less of 
 country life. If you go outside " to walk " you have to go 
 so far to get out of the sand that you come back wearied 
 instead of refreshed. Sometimes we wade through the 
 sand in the streets and go to the palm and fig groves, of 
 which there are a great many, and sometimes we go down
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GlfFEN, 103 
 
 to the sea, sit on the beach and watch the dash of the 
 waves. The walk there and back is pleasant, but I do not 
 like to listen to "old ocean's roar." First I think of all 
 from which it separates me, of our first day " at sea," 
 of all the sorroAvful thoughts which seem to me inseparable 
 constituents of that day. Then my mind runs on a little 
 farther, and I imagine I am down in the " lower re- 
 gions " of the old Chiba again. I hear a wave dash over 
 the decks and go thumping against the wall of the berth 
 on one side, while the next moment I seize hold of some- 
 thing to keep from tumbling out on the other. In plain 
 terms, I would not have far to go to be sea-sick again, as a 
 matter of fact and not of imagination, for I always find 
 that I have been watching the waves coming and going 
 until the beach on which I am sitting seems to be moving 
 just like the shij^ did. Sometimes we go up on the " house- 
 tops" and promenade up there. I enjoy that very nuich, 
 for the view is really one of the prettiest I ever saw. In 
 every direction are handsome buildings, some of them pal- 
 aces, surrounded with palm groves and lovely flower gar- 
 dens, in every one of which, when you are near enough, 
 you may listen to the murmur of a fountain or the gentle 
 flow of a little stream brought up by a windmill for the 
 life of the flowers. Just across the street is Villa Julia, 
 the palace to which the Maharajah Duleep Singh took 
 his bride when he married her from the Mission schools 
 in Cairo. Opposite my window, where I am now writing, 
 there is a pretty fountain always flowing in the Villa gar- 
 den, and the rill-like murmur loses me many a moment. 
 It brings up the recollection of so many cool " branches " 
 in the woods winding around great old hillsides at a dear 
 old home, where many a happy day has been spent on 
 the grassy banks, dabbling with idle fingers in the flow- 
 ing stream. E
 
 104 LIFE AND LETTEES OP 
 
 I think any American would be surprised at the sight if 
 he could go with us on the house this evening and count 
 the groves and gardens. One is so accustomed to think- 
 ing of there being no vegetation here, that it seems very 
 wonderful to see so much floral luxuriance. Water seems 
 to be the only requisite for growth. We are just in the 
 Desert, and yet where there is sufficient irrigation every- 
 thinsr erows as if in the richest soil. It does not " bake," 
 as we say at home. Everything is planted in rows, or 
 rather in little channels, trees, as well as flowers, and thus 
 when the pipes are opened a nice little stream flows around 
 everything. We will have no more rain this season, and 
 consequently we never have to look out in the morning to 
 see if it is clear or cloudy, 
 
 American papers have had so much to say recently 
 about Centennials that it has excited quite a little burst of 
 patriotism among those of your countrymen who are spend- 
 ing the summer in Ramie. Being entirely out " of 
 range" of Centennials, we have fallen upon " the next 
 best" thing which is to celebrate thefo%irth of July. As it 
 falls on Sabbath, we are compelled, of course, to take 
 either the fifth or the third, and as the latter is the leisure 
 day of six or seven of us, " we, a handful of Americans," 
 Avent out and took our tea in a palm grove this evening. 
 
 At three o'clock we went down to the station, met the 
 friends from town and bravely took our way through the 
 heat, dust and sand to the grove. We found plenty of 
 shade and a delightfully cool breeze from the sea, but no 
 "green carpet" of grass — nothing but sand and palms, 
 and after a time some camels — the three distinctive 
 features of Egypt, There was plenty of water, however, 
 and the palms far exceeded the number which so gladdened 
 the hearts of the weary Israelites at Elim. I think I
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY OIFFEN. 105 
 
 would not exaggerate the matter if" I should say there 
 were a thousand. I counted fifteen in one grouj^, ciyhlecn 
 in another, and hceniy-one in a third, all having sprung 
 from one root. Some of them were quite tall and very 
 graceful, hut very few of them were fruit-bearing. They 
 Avere " in bloom " about six weeks ago, and now the young 
 dates are about as large as grapes. 
 
 AVe selected little mounds in the sand, spread down our 
 shawls, took our seats and congratulated each other on " the 
 fourth," notwithstanding it Avas only the third. Mr. Ewing 
 had brought out a pocket full of letters and papers, and while 
 the rest of us were resting and enjoying the breeze, he read 
 to us ; Mr. N. constructed a pyramid of sand, somebody 
 found a palm branch and Miss D. planted it in the pyra- 
 mid and unfurled the " red, white and blue " in the shape 
 of a red ribbon, a white handkerchief and a blue vail. 
 Meantime the table-cloth was spread on the sand, and sand- 
 wiches, musk-melons, pies, grapes, &c., arranged upon it. 
 Our places were assigned us, and we very gracefully took 
 our seats upon the sand. A blessing was asked and we 
 proceeded " to celebrate the fourth " in a very practical 
 manner. It was very enjoyable, indeed, and I wished many 
 times that some of you could have looked on the little 
 scene — a dozen missionaries taking a nice, quiet tea on the 
 white sands of Egypt, all cheerful and happy, forgetting 
 for the time the 7,000 miles between them and those with 
 whom they had last celebrated the American anniver- 
 sary. 
 
 Just beside us stood a marble monument, about three 
 feet high, having the top carved in the shape of an im- 
 mense turban. The gentlemen all pronounced it the grave 
 of a Sheik. There is a belief among Mohammedans that 
 a Sheik always indicates the exact spot on which he wishes
 
 106 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 to be buried, by rendering it impossible for the pall-bear- 
 ers to proceed further with the corpse. The body is pre- 
 pared for burial, and the bearers and procession start out 
 in the direction indicated by the departed spirit. When 
 the proper place has been reached, the bearers find them- 
 selves compelled to stop, and there — no matter where it is 
 — the grave is dug and the monument erected. I have an 
 impression that it would not be difficult to tell how this Sheik 
 indicated his wish to take his long dreamless sleep, " under 
 the shadow of the palms." If it was as fatiguing to the 
 bearers of his corpse to wade through the sand as it was to 
 us, or rather if the sand was as deep then as it is now, we 
 suspect the shade of the Sheik was not very carefully con- 
 sulted. 
 
 After tea the gentlemen amused themselves playing ball 
 for a little while, and others of us took a promenade 
 through the grove. At this stage of the performance we 
 discovered a tin can fastened to the top of a tall palm for 
 the purpose of getting 'chomr — Avine — from the tree. 
 Most of us had never seen it, and so we got a native to go 
 up and bring the can down. The liquid was the color of 
 clear water with a small quantity of milk added, and tasted 
 quite pleasant, something like a mild kind of beer. It 
 seemed a queer idea to " tap" a tree at the top, but so it 
 was. In India this 'chomr is intoxicating but does not 
 kill the tree. This one, however, had lost the whole of its 
 feathery tuft. 
 
 The train was coming iii from Aboukir just as we came 
 into Ramie, and I made a mental note of it for the sake of 
 the little boys at home who have declaimed " The boy 
 stood on the burning deck." Just twelve miles from our 
 fourth of July tea driiiking poo}' little Casablanca stooc] 
 aild cried ;
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 107 
 
 "8ay, fatlier, iiiiist I stay? 
 
 While o'er liini fast tlirotigli sail and siirdud, 
 
 The wreatliing fires made way." 
 
 The sun was just setting as we came through the town 
 and passing one of the railway stations, we saw a moslem 
 " praying towards Mecca." He was one of the station 
 guards, and was performing his devotions right beside the 
 street. He knelt first for a moment then rose to his full 
 height for about the same time, and then prostrated him- 
 self so as to touch the ground with his forehead. This I 
 think he did three times, looking very earnest and solemn 
 throughout. It is of course as false a fixith as that which 
 so disgusted me in Rome, but it did not make the same im- 
 pression. As we passed on the thought came into my 
 mind that it would be a rich reward for our hard work 
 over Arabic, our separation from home and country, if in 
 the last great day one such moslem should make a star in 
 our " crown of rejoicing." 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 ARABIC LANGUAGE. 
 
 ^^ Dear Doctor: — I think I promised some time ago to tell 
 you something about this wonderful old Arabic language, 
 but it is so very difticult to find out much about it that I 
 am afraid you will have to be content with meagre ideas 
 for a long while, unless you get information from some one 
 who is better acquainted with it than I am^ It is not
 
 108 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 studied as modern languages are, and though I think 
 this circumstance greatly increases the difficulty of acquir- 
 ing it, yet it is not by any means the difficulty. Mission- 
 aries say the pronunciation is the backbone of Arabic, and 
 that this must be broken, if it is ever done, in the first six 
 months. So, for that length of time, it is considered of 
 comparatively little importance to give much attention to 
 the acquisition of words, idioms or construction. You be- 
 gin, of course, with the alphabet, but you stay there a long 
 time after the eye is able to recognize each character, for 
 there is at least five of them for which European throats 
 have no organ at all. There are twenty-eight letters, Alif, 
 Ba, Ta, Tha, Gcem, 'Ha, Kha, Dal, Thai, Ra, Zay, Seen, 
 Sheen, S'sad, 'Dad, 'Ta, Za, Am, Ghine, Fa, 'Kaf, Kaf, 
 Lam, Meem, Noon, Woxo, Ha and Ya. You see several of 
 them go in pairs, as in the Hebrew, and the distinctions 
 are very hard to make. A failure between the 'Dal and 
 the 'Dad, the Seen and the Sad, the Ta and the ' Ta, often 
 makes terrible havoc with the meaning of a sentence. The 
 ^KaJ is taken from the caw of the raven, the Ghine from the 
 growl of the camel. These two with the 'Ha, Kha and the 
 Ain are very difficult. The 'Ha is a terrible deep aspirate, 
 and must be made from the chest. The eflTort to pronounce 
 these five, and also to trill the Ra, is very fatiguing and 
 not less discouraging. You are utterly unable to make any 
 approximation to the sounds the teacher gives you, and as 
 far as you can judge yourself you see no pi'ospect that you 
 ever will come any nearer to them. If your nuisical 
 " ear " is pitre and acute you will get them " by and by" — 
 as our teacher says, " Mallish ! never mind, it will come," 
 but the progressive experience of most Arabic students is 
 pretty severe. Not many of them ever acquire it without 
 having been attacked with fits of despair more or less
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 109 
 
 severe, about the only cure for which is the recollection 
 that " what has been done may be done again." So you 
 get up a fresh stock of courage, and in two or three lessons 
 you get to spelling. Here you encounter fresh obstacles in 
 combining the letters and the vowels, which, by the way, 
 correspond to our short a, oo and e, and are not written 
 except where it is necessary to show the construction. Af- 
 ter one or two months' of drilling in these combinations 
 the Testament is taken up as a reading book, the English 
 translation being your dictionary. It requires a long time 
 to become sufficiently familiar with the characters to read 
 fluently, even when you can give the sounds. The letters 
 are small, and they vary with the combination. If you 
 read " with points " that greatly increases the indistinct- 
 ness of the text, and if you read " Avithout points " you 
 have them to supply, perhaps without kuoAving for a long- 
 time what to supply. Our teacher had us read John's 
 Gospel first " with points " exclusively. Now he has us 
 read a chapter that way first, and then requires us to take 
 the unpointed book and supply for ourselves. We have 
 also commenced the grammar, and although there are said 
 to be thirteen conjugations, yet I think the verb is perhaps 
 not more difficult than in other languages, possibly it is not 
 so much so, as there is really but one principal conjugation. 
 The others are derived for the most part by rule, and are 
 less complicated than they at first appear. There is but 
 one article — al or el — which is definite and can be prefixed 
 to either the singular, dual or plural. The adjective gener- 
 ally follows the noun, and the noun the verb. There are 
 three cases, the nominative, genitive and accusative ; und 
 three tenses, the past, present and future, the two latter be- 
 ing just the same. The jiast, in the third person mascu- 
 line, is the root, and is either " triliteral " or " quadrilit- 
 eral."
 
 110 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 Arabic is not what you would call a musical language, 
 but it was not at all disagreeable to me at first as it is to 
 some persons. It is so entirely different from anything one 
 ever heard before that it is not easy to realize that it is lan- 
 guage. The words are so run together, when correctly 
 spoken, that it is difficult to tell where one ends and another 
 begins. I have heard a good many missionaries from other 
 countries say that, as compared with other languages, it im- 
 pressed them as strong, substantial and energetic. Dr. El- 
 lenwood, who stopped in Alexandria on his Avay around the 
 Presbyterian world of missions, gave it decidedly the pref- 
 erence over every language with which he had come -in 
 contact. There Avas a force and dignity in it, he said, 
 which he could find in no other. 
 
 Those who are familiar with it affirm that it is emi)hati- 
 cally the language of the world to scold in. To uninitiated 
 ears it is an alarming thing to hear two old Arab Avomen 
 berating each other in the street. You think they are upon 
 the very point of tearing each other's eyes out, and you 
 wonder if nobody will interfere to prevent an inevitable 
 calamity, when they shrug their shoulders and walk off as 
 (piietly as if they had only said, " How are you ? " To 
 hear a native woman read is a most uncomfortable experi- 
 ence, until you have worked long enough at those hard let- 
 ters yourself to envy her pronunciation. She reads as if 
 she meant to see whether or not she could split her throat. 
 She reads in that way naturally, and if a foreigner gets the 
 pronunciation he must do so too. Our teacher says " read 
 loud " and then your ear will become able to detect sounds, 
 and shades of sound ; and until one can do that it is impos- 
 sible to imitate them. At first you feel as if you only 
 heard a noise, not an articulate sound. Consequently in 
 estimating one's probable ability to acquire Arabic it is
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. Ill 
 
 not sufficienl that there ho what is commonly known as " a 
 taste for languages." That is all very well, but there must 
 be the pure, quick ear besides. One Avho is not sensitive 
 to a discord in music will, without doubt, encounter in- 
 creased difficulties in Arabic. 
 
 In preaching the minister has to judge from the appear- 
 ance or character of his audience whether he is to use 
 " high " or " low " Arabic. If he' is preaching to tolerably 
 educated men it viay be high, but when he turns to the 
 women he must come down pretty low\ It is a singular 
 fact, too, that natives will readily excuse faulty construc- 
 tion, but they never excuse incorrect pronunciation. But 
 our missionary friends tell us our greatest trial is over, that 
 the organs for the difficult letters are at least partially 
 formed and our ear becoming a little less obtuse, so that 
 we can begin to perceive differences in sounds. It will be 
 matter of great rejoicing to us if we can be sure at the end 
 of six months that we have all the letters. 
 
 There seems, too, to be an almost endless number of 
 grades in Arabic scholarship, beginning with those who 
 speak and read it nicely without knowing anything of the 
 principles of construction, up to Dr. Van Dyke, the great 
 master of Arabic in the East. But before you understand 
 the reason, it is rather discouraging when you inquire how 
 many years it will require to make you a scholar in the 
 language, to get the lofty answer — a life time. The Sheiks 
 in the Mosques are the Arabic critics; and Moallim Abd 
 'el Noor says " they spend forty years over one little ques- 
 tion and then cannot tell whether it ought to be a fatha a 
 a domma or akasra, an a an o or an e. 
 
 The last time I saw Mr. Strang he inquired if I could 
 not tell my brother enough about the " beauties " of Arabic 
 to induce him to come out and try it. He went on com-
 
 112 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 mentiug on the obliquities of the grammar, the origin of 
 the letters, the Ghine being taken from the growl of the 
 camel, the Ain from the bleat of the goat, the 'ITa from 
 the hiss of the serpent, &c., and then suddenly changing 
 his tone he added " O, its the language of the Angels, of 
 course." A member of our class Avas sitting by and in- 
 quired if he meant the fallen Angels. 
 
 Until recently we have had the greatest difficulty in the 
 way of an Arabic dictionary. We had little to rely upon 
 except a Latin and Arabic dictionary, but this summer we 
 have been studying French a little and have got an excel- 
 lent French and Arabic dictionary which has been invalu- 
 able. 
 
 You can't guess how nearly we sometimes come to envy- 
 infj our good friends in Mexico their nice civilized language, 
 particularly with reference to its written form. If we only 
 had Roman characters to deal with ! But we must first 
 learn the names of the strange letters, then learn that al- 
 most all of them have three or more different forms ac- 
 cording to their position in the berjinning, middle, or end of 
 a woitl ; then be set to write them all with a reed pen on a 
 piece of jyaper held in your hand and going from right to 
 left — which is very difficult to one at all afflicted with 
 nerves. You are told that the written hand is just like 
 print, and you go to work greatly encouraged. But after a 
 little you notice that you cannot read a word of ordinary let- 
 ters, shop signs, advertisements, telegrams, receipts, &c., 
 and when you ask the reason it is, " that's a very differ- 
 ent thing. That's the business hand." Then we ask why 
 didn't you give us copies in that hand, " O foreigners can 
 never learn that hand. That is our pride to be able to 
 write that way." And I think it is the most intricate thing 
 I ever knew. Letters are made above and below each 
 
 i
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIPFEN. 113 
 
 other, around and within each other and so curved and 
 joined that it is ini})ossible to say where one ends and an- 
 other begins. All business must be done in this hand and 
 even our college boys sometimes have difficulty to read it. 
 Very few foreigners ever get all the sounds under a year of 
 hard work and then there remains a great difficulty in 
 making them in their various cond^inations and very, very 
 fetv ever learn to write Arabic easily and acceptably. Thus 
 you see there are three great difficulties in the language — 
 to read, write and speak it." 
 
 In a private letter written at this time I\Irs. Gitfen says of 
 this language, " It is a very steep and high mountain, and 
 very few foreigners ever succeed in reaching the top. It is 
 the work of a lifetime to become a scholar in this language. 
 Although it is so terrible a language I intend to get it with 
 the best of the men." The strenuous effin-ts made by her 
 in this direction did not pass unrewarded. 
 
 Pr. Hogg, who was for several months her instructor in 
 this language, and for four years her associate in mission 
 labor at the same station, writes : " Her knowledge of 
 Arabic was accurate and extensive. When she joined the 
 mission at Asyoot, a little over two years after her arrival, 
 she had already made such progress in the knowledge and 
 practical use of the Arabic vernacular, that she was able 
 at once to take charge of the advanced class in the female 
 boarding school. All these exercises were in Arabic. . To 
 be able to teach such branches as were taught this class in 
 an interesting and effective manner implies a knowledge of 
 the vernacular both accurate and e5itensive." 
 
 " Her 2yyonunc'iation was good. (This is rightly termed 
 the backbone of this monstrous lano-uaue. — Ed.) It is a 
 happy day for the whole mission when the latest arrival 
 has learned to pronounce his letters correctly. Months
 
 114 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 have to pass before this report can be safely made. In 
 many cases years have passed before the training has been 
 snfficieut to guarantee that the newly-acquired vocables 
 shall be pronounced in all kinds of combinations with ease 
 and accuracy. Need I add that in the majority of cases 
 this longed-for consummation is in fact never attained." 
 
 " Your sister did attain it — or at least something very 
 near it, but not without a protracted effort in the case of 
 some of the letters. I have seen her more than once inter- 
 rupt the exposition of a difficult point in Arabic grammar 
 to ask or suggest the connection of the point under discus- 
 sion with something that had previously been explained, 
 or that had arrested her attention in her private reading, 
 thus showing that her active mind had apprehended at a 
 glance what to others required to be explained in detail." 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 CAIRO, AND ITS ENVIRONS. 
 
 " You Avill see from the date of my letter that I am in new 
 quarters again. There were no native influences around 
 us in Ramie, and consequently we made slow progress in 
 acquiring colloquial Arabic. Occasionally a native from 
 Alexandria would make us a call and mortify us with all 
 sorts of questions which we could not comprehend, and we 
 naturally felt anxious to go where there would be increased 
 facilities for acquiring the ability to make ourselves under- 
 stood. Scarcely any amount of " book Arabic " would
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 115 
 
 enable one to do that, still the latter must be learned be- 
 fore there can be any degree of usefulness in teaching. 
 
 Dr. Lansing remained here all summer, except a few 
 days, doing all the usual mission work, and also superin- 
 tending very closely the work of the new buildings. Per- 
 haps you know that some years ago the Viceroy reigning 
 at that time, Saeed Pasha, presented to the mission a large 
 brick building, together with the lot on which it stood. 
 But the present Viceroy, for purposes of public improve- 
 ment, desired to have the grounds and oftered to give in 
 exchange thirty-five thousand dollars and another site for 
 building in the very best quarters of the city. This was 
 of course accepted and this spring the new building was. 
 begun. It is to consist, if ever completed, of a church, 
 dwellings for two families, and rooms and halls for the 
 boys' day school and girls' boarding school. It is hoped 
 that the Chapel, which is designed for the large school hall, 
 may be open for preaching in five or six months ; but 
 building here is a much more formidable undertaking than 
 in America. In this city, as well as in Alexandria, much 
 of the surface is old ruins or the debris of ages, which is 
 entirely insufticient to sustain the weight of a large stone 
 building. All this must be dug through, no matter how 
 deep, and the foundation laid on solid ground. In this in- 
 stance the lot is situated on the site of a lake. Ten or 
 fifteen years ago the whole of Esbekeeyah quarter was un- 
 der water, but after the Viceroy's visit to Paris he began 
 to remodel the city. The lake was filled up by being made 
 the receptacle for all the rubbish of Cairo, and a most beau- 
 tiful public garden was laid out in it, which is the Central 
 Park of this part of the world. The new lot fronts this 
 garden on one side and on another the most popular hotel 
 in the city, so that a more suitable location could not have
 
 116 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 beeu desired. About a mouth ago the walls were brought 
 up to the surface aud the corner stone is now ready to be 
 laid. Solid ground was only reached at the depth of sev- 
 enteen feet, and at the bottom the walls are nine feet and 
 ten inches thick. This will give you some idea of the cost 
 and labor of building before any building appears. 
 
 Opposite our window are three or four fellah huts, where 
 live several families of fellaheen — that term meaning the 
 poorest class of people. While we were gone to the 
 Citadel — a space of not more than three or four hours — 
 an old woman, perhaps the grandmother, in one of the 
 families died and was buried. It was all over when we got 
 back, but Miss T. saw the burial preparations. It was 
 necessary, according to their ideas, to have her disposed of 
 before sunset, and the men hurried up all the arrangements 
 with most indecent haste, and then started off to the grave 
 almost in a run. That is decidedly the style here. Wed- 
 ding processions are ever so slow, but a funeral cortege 
 moves rapidly. Well, when we came up from tea the 
 '' mourning " had commenced. It was very unpleasant to 
 hear ; wild, violent cries and doleful chants, so that we 
 shut the window and put our hands o.ver our ears in order 
 to sleep. Next morning the men went to their work and 
 the women took their turn. There was only one profes- 
 sional mourner. She had a long scarf which she drew back 
 and forth in a wild way across the back of her neck, the 
 top of her head and over her shoulders, and all of them 
 kept up a continuous wail — an indescribable something be- 
 tween a moan and a scream. They all sat round in a circle, 
 just outside the door where the death had occurred, and 
 carried on the mourning for three or four hours. It was 
 only " an old woman," however. Had it been a young 
 one, or better still a man or bov, instead of the mild kind
 
 MRS. 3IARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 117 
 
 of mourning we heard, it would have been most fearful 
 shrieking, beating the breast, tearing the hair, casting dust 
 on the head, jerking the scarf, writhing the body, &c. ; not 
 for one time only, but every night and morning for per- 
 haps a dozen days. I understand now what is meant when 
 it is said in the Bible " the Egyptians mourned for Israel 
 threescore and ten days." Then when Joseph carried the 
 body back to Canaan and " made a mourning for his 
 father seven days " the Canaanites said " this is a grievous 
 mourning to the Egyptians." We could not sleep for the 
 mourning over one death, and that one which was consid- 
 ered of small importance. Think what it must have been 
 when God smote " all the first born in the land of Egypt, 
 from the first born of Pharaoh who sat upon the throne to 
 the first born of the maid servant behind the mill ; " when 
 there was " a great cry throughout all Egypt," such as never 
 was and never shall be like it. One universal cry, one 
 long, horrible wail, would ring out on that fearful night. 
 
 By the way, we were reading this 11th chapter of Ex- 
 odus with the girls this evening, and instead of the chil- 
 dren of Israel being directed to " borrow " jewels of gold 
 and jewels of silver, the Arabic rendering is yatlub " — 
 " speak to every man that he o.sA"." Life in the East gives 
 a new meaning to very many things in the Bible. Every 
 day you hear or see some fresh evidence that it Avas written 
 by Orientals — by men who bear a much closer resemblance 
 in mind, manner and ajjpearance to those by whom Ave are 
 surrounded than to ourselves. I got into such a vein of 
 thought the other day when reading about the Abyssinian 
 Eunuch to whom Philip preached the Gospel. My mind 
 instantly photographed him as he went leisurely along 
 through the Desert in a way it never did before. 
 
 Last Saturday afternoon Dr. L. insisted that I should go
 
 118 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 out and see some of the historic ground around Cairo. So 
 we took a carriage and drove to Heliopolis — " the City of 
 the Sun " — and the Site of the Temple of the Sun, as well 
 as of the Temple of Onias. Heliopolis is the Ou of the 
 Old Testament, and it was in the Temple of the Sun that 
 Joseph found his wife. The priests were at that time a 
 highly privileged class, and Potiphera was most probably 
 of the highest rank in this most famous of all the old 
 Egyptian Temples. 
 
 We started about four o'clock and w'ere almost immedi- 
 ately among the prickly pear and sycamore groves in the 
 suburbs of the city. These were objects of a good deal of 
 interest to us. The former, like all species of the cactus 
 in this country, grows to a great size and the fruit is very 
 much prized. The trees — I suppose I should call them 
 such — were ten or tAvelve feet high, and from twelve to 
 eighteen inches in diameter. They have a most ragged, 
 scrawny appearance, seeming to have made desperate ef- 
 forts to grow in every direction, except an upright one. 
 But the sycamores are a beautiful sight. They were cov- 
 ered with fruit, Avhich is of a pretty rose color and of the 
 shape of a fig almost. The tree is not of a fine growth, 
 and has very few small branches — the fruit seeming to be 
 duch on the large limbs. The latter are frequently near 
 the ground, and, in fact, the tree is something like the 
 prickly pear in its disinclination to grow upwards. Zac- 
 cheus of course Avas in all minds, and it was not hard to 
 imagine him stepping easily up one of those twisted spread- 
 ing trees to see Jesus " passing by." 
 
 After passing the groves we found ourselves quite in the 
 Desert. 
 
 After driving perhaps two miles through the desert we 
 entered beautiful green plantations. Lebbech or acacia
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 119 
 
 trees Avere planted on each side of the road and their great 
 arms met and overlapped each other in a most beautiful 
 arch, while between them was a thick hedge of lemon trees. 
 In the fields were orange and pomegranate trees laden with 
 green fruit, palms, vines and mulberries; tomatoes, beans, 
 radishes, &c., and a great deal of corn. The ground, be- 
 fore planting, is laid off into beds perhaps six or eight feet 
 square, around each of Avhich is a channel for the water. 
 In these beds the corn is planted in rows about a foot 
 apart — or rather I should say it is sotved, for the stalks 
 seem to stand just as thick as is possible. Of course there 
 can be but little culture, which would not matter much if 
 the ground were really plowed before planting. It is not, 
 however, and the corn does not grow more than five or six 
 feet high. I have an idea, however, that it is of the kind 
 we call " six weeks corn " at home. Six years ago these 
 plantations were nothing but desert, pure white sand. Now 
 the soil has been so enriched by the alluvial deposit from 
 the water of the Nile, with which it is irrigated, that it 
 looks as black as any land I ever saw. The road or ave- 
 nue on which we were driving led to the Khedeewee's fa- 
 vorite palace, and perhaps three miles out we turned off 
 from it into another, planted on each side with tamarisk 
 and shittim trees — the " shittim wood " of the Bible. 
 
 Another mile or two brought us to the fsimous well 
 which tradition says sprang up in the desert to quench the 
 thirst of the " Holy Family " when they fled into Egypt. 
 Our driver stopped under the spreading trees which now 
 surround it, and pointed out what dragomen and many 
 travelers consider the most interesting feature of Heliop- 
 olis — the old sycamore tree under which Mary sat doAvn 
 with the infant Saviour after they had been refreshed from 
 the miraculous fountain. It is called the Virgin's tree—
 
 120 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 tradition not admitting tliat Josejih enjoyed the comfort of 
 its shade. It is an old, old tree. The trunk is perhaps six 
 feet across, though not more than two the other way. It 
 looks at first as if several trees had spnyig up touching 
 each other, grown together for five or six feet, and then 
 separated, and yet they all seem one, though two or three 
 places you could see through the decayed places in the 
 trunk. A neat fence inclosed it and white jessamine and 
 other flowers were trailing over it. We asked the bow-wab 
 who erected the fence. " Mohammed Ali," was the quick 
 reply. A native always refers a great thing to Moham- 
 med Ali, let it be ever so improbable. The fact is that 
 travelers cut up the tree to such an extent as to threaten 
 its destruction, and so the owner, a Copt, adopted this means 
 of preserving it. The bow-wab gathered us each a boquet 
 of roses, geraniums, &c., and I got him to go up into the 
 tree and get me some leaves to press. The fence is cov- 
 ered with the names of travelers ambitious of letting it 
 be known to those who come after them that they " have 
 been there." One man, however, with an unusually skep- 
 tical tendency, has written, " I do not believe in this tree." 
 We went back to the carriage, and the first thing we 
 knew our driver Avas going at a rapid rate towards Cairo. 
 Miss T. stopped him and insisted that we wished to see the 
 ruins and the great Obelisk. " Ma feesh ! ma feesh!" — 
 " there is nothing, nothing at all " — he persisted, but we 
 carried our point and made him turn back. It is the 
 month of Ramadan now, and all good Moslems taste 
 nothing while it lasts from half-past three in the morning 
 until sunset. This driver was a " son of the prophet " 
 and quite impatient for his supper, and it was with rather 
 a bad grace that he drove us through the ruins of the 
 great Temple and set us down at the foot of the Obe-
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 121 
 
 lisk. The village of Miitareeyah near by is built of ma- 
 terial from the ruins, but nothing is now visible except a 
 line of mounds indicating the dimensions of the Temple, 
 which are about 4,500 x 3,500 feet. It was in this temple, 
 from its learned priests, that Moses became skilled " in all 
 the wisdom of the Egyptians." Here Plato lived and 
 studied thirteen years, and here Solon and Eudoxus came 
 for the same purpose, and here too Jeremiah is supposed 
 to have written his Lamentations. On the great altar, ac- 
 cording to the Roman fable, the Phenix came from Ara- 
 bia and placed its j^redecessor's bones in the nest of si:)ices 
 in which it had died, and then went back to live out its 
 own five hundred years. But " the glory is departed." 
 Only the mounds and the Obelisk remain. The latter is 
 sixty-eight feet in height and is between six and seven feet 
 at the base. The hieroglyphics are the same on the four sides, 
 and extend from base to summit. It was erected by Osir- 
 tasen 2,000 years B. C, the account of which is given in 
 the hieroglyphics. The first figure at the top is a raven. 
 The serpent occurs twice, the hand, the ibis, other birds 
 and two or three mathematical figures. The shaft is of 
 solid red granite and is supposed to weigh five hundred 
 tons. There are three or four obelisks in Rome which 
 were taken from Egypt beside this one, the one in front of 
 St. Peter's being of the number. Cleopatra's Needle in 
 Alexandria was also taken from Heliopolis by one of the 
 Csesars and set up in front of his palace. 
 
 We walked round the Obelisk and examined it as well 
 as we could for the crowd of young Arabs who swarmed 
 round us for " bucksheesh." AVe thought of Moses and 
 Joseph that they had stood many times just where we 
 were, and looked up at the great shaft just as Ave were 
 doing. But Ikjw different would everything else be ! The
 
 122 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 Balm of Gilead once grew around Heliopolis ; now cotton 
 is cultivated under the very shadow of the Obelisk ! 
 
 By the way I have not told you anything about the 
 fiimous old fortress, the Citadel. It is situated at the foot 
 of the Mokattam Hills, on an elevation quite as command- 
 ing as any of the seven hills of Rome, and was built by 
 the great Saladin in 1166. All the stone used in its con- 
 struction was brought from the smaller Pyramids sur- 
 rounding the great ones, and, in fact, the casing stones of 
 the second Pyramid were all removed for the same pur- 
 pose. It is an immense fortress, consisting of apparently 
 endless barracks, innumerable halls of immense size, into 
 which the government offices open, of a palace and of the 
 Grand Mosque of Mohammed Ali. 
 
 First we looked into the immense printing department, 
 and, among other things, we saw there an outline surface 
 map of all Egypt up to the Second Cataract. It was on 
 what looked like a very large billiard table, perhaps four- 
 teen feet in length, and was a perfect imitation of the sur- 
 face of the country, made in some kind of plaster. It was 
 almost sad to look at the great reaches of desert — desert, al- 
 most nothing but desert — and then think of the millions who 
 must live in the little bit of green country. From a front 
 balcony Ave looked down on the City of the Caliphs, glit- 
 tering beneath an eastern sun. It is almost bewildering to 
 look over its wilderness of mosques, minarets, cupolas and 
 towers from the giddy height on which we stood, for the 
 balcony hangs almost perpendicularly a hundred or more 
 feet over the magnificent street which winds up the hill. 
 There were crowds of people everywhere, groups of lazy, 
 moping camels, funeral processions, and marriage proces- 
 sions, too, moving through the distant streets. To the right 
 was a moslem cemetery, to the South and North the shin-
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 123 
 
 ing river, and away in the West were, I had almost said 
 the everlasting, Pyramids. Coming down and going 
 through a beautiful garden full of jessamines, roses, orange, 
 and lemon trees, we came into an open space, where knots 
 of people and soldiers were grouped together buying and 
 selling, eating and drinking, around what seemed to be a 
 well. We climbed up and looked down into it. After 
 peering into the darkness a long time we could just distin- 
 guish the sparkle of water far below. We turned into an 
 enclosure and descending what seemed a steep earthen stair 
 winding around the well, and having windows cut through 
 its inside wall to admit a little light from the well. This 
 is in tAvo parts. The first is one hundred and sixty feet in 
 depth, but under it, or rather to its side a little, is another 
 one hundred and thirty feet farther down in the solid rock. 
 This stairway on which w^e were is for the pur})0se of tak- 
 ing up the water from the lower well, and emptying it into 
 the one in which we were looking. Then at the top it is 
 drawn up from this one in the same way, having made at 
 last an ascent of two hundred and ninety feet. It is called 
 Joseph's well, and was dug by Saladin when he built the 
 fortress. The depth of the well is thought to be just the 
 height of the Citadel grounds above the bed of the river. 
 From the well we proceeded to the Grand Mosque. At 
 the entrance of the great marble Court in front of the 
 Mosque we were stopped and required to put on large cloth 
 slippers, to prevent our profane feet from touching the 
 sacred Turkish carpets or the consecrated marble and ala- 
 baster beneath. The building is an immense square with a 
 great domed roof and a minaret at each of the two front 
 corners at least two hundred and fifty feet high. The 
 whole inside and out is encased with alabaster. There is 
 not a picture, altar, or anything of the kind to be seen, ex-
 
 124 LIFE AND LETTERS OP 
 
 cept a most gaudy-looking puljiit, at an elevation of per- 
 haps fifteen feet, Avhicli is occupied once or twice in the 
 year. Mohammed All's tomb occupies one corner, and is 
 surrounded by a brazen enclosure richer than anything we 
 saw in Westminster. A square monument, ten or twelve 
 feet high, over the vault is surrounded by the old hero's 
 turban, or tarboosh, crowning a pedestal. Just to the left 
 of the Mosque is the open square in which this same old 
 desjDot murdered the Mamalukes. We were shown the 
 place where one of them sprang his horse over the wall and 
 down into the street below. There was and is a great pile 
 of rubbish there, and the leap is supposed not to have been 
 more than twenty-five feet. We got up on the w^all, looked 
 away down into the city, and tried to imagine the poor 
 Mamaluke's desperation when he started on that fearful 
 leap and the wild joy which must have filled his heart 
 when he found himself safe. 
 
 It is in the Citadel that you get the best impression of 
 the military power of T^gypt, the absolute authority of its 
 ruler, and his determination to simre neither care nor ex- 
 pense in strengthening as well as tightening his grasp on 
 his dominions. It gives one rather a queer sensation to see 
 American officers walking round in their uniforms among 
 so many Turkish oflicials. 
 
 The great event of this week, however, has been the visit 
 of the Prince of Wales. He came last Saturday, and Sab- 
 bath night the Viceroy had a splendid opera prepared for 
 him. The expedition, however, is very much under the 
 care of Sir Bartle Frere — a very pious nobleman, and be- 
 sides the character of the English Nation was at stake, so 
 the Prince declined the ojiera Sabbath night and went to the 
 theatre Monday night. Tuesday Sir Bartle came over to 
 the new buildings, saw Dr. L., and came over here to see
 
 MRS. MARY CALLOWAY OIFFEN. 125 
 
 Mrs. L. and the l)();ir(ling school, tliougli he sent cards 
 merely to all the other dignitaries who had called on him. 
 
 In the afternoon we went out on the street and saw the 
 expedition pass to the station. The Prince, the Viceroy 
 and Sir Bartle were in the first carriage. Perhaps there 
 were a dozen other carriages, all the handsomest " ele- 
 gances " with as fine horses as I ever saw. Several of the 
 Viceroy's sons with Consuls and other dignitaries graced 
 the escort. There were soldiers, and pages, footmen, and 
 runners, and every other mark of respect for the distin- 
 guished guest. He was himself a very common-looking 
 specimen of humanity, dressed in an ordinary gray suit. 
 The Viceroy took leave of him immediately on reaching 
 the station, and returned alone in a close carriage. As he 
 passed us he looked out of the window and gave us a very 
 graceful salute. 
 
 Sometime ago we went one afternoon to the Mosque of 
 Sultan el Hasan, one of the oldest and most famous in the 
 city. It was just sunset — the first " hour of prayer " when 
 we went in and the Muezzin went upon the lofty Minaret — 
 two hfindrcd and sixty feet high — and chanted in the most 
 sonorous and indeed harmonious tones, " God is most Great. 
 I testify that there is no deity but God. I testify that Mo- 
 hammed is God's apostle. Come to prayer. Come to se- 
 curity, God is most Great. There is no god but God." As 
 soon as the " call " was finished, all those who had per- 
 formed the required ablutions at a large fountain in the 
 center of the great square came and knelt in a line, Avith 
 their faces toward Mecca, and the Iman who leads in the 
 prayer stood before them. There were twenty-five in the 
 row, and I am sure I never saw anywhere a greater appear- 
 ance of solemnity and deep feeling, without any admixture 
 of either aflfectation or fanaticism. They first took position
 
 126 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 on the knees and toes, and when they bowed their heads, 
 which they must do without moving the feet, their fore- 
 heads touched the ground. They recited in concert what 
 seemed not very different from the " call," and after several 
 prostrations they rose to their feet and again recited it, 
 then knelt again, &c. Not an eye was turned towards us 
 by the worshippers and there Avas something impressive in 
 their deep, sonorous voices, echoing through such a grand 
 old building. 
 
 As we came out little children and larger ones came 
 trooping after us begging for bucksheesh, of course. One 
 little one, about four years old, ran after the gentlemen, and 
 not receiving what he asked, he did the next best thing for 
 this country — cursed their fathers. 
 
 Last Saturday one of the members of the church here 
 sent for us to go up to the citadel to see the ceremony of 
 carrying the Kisweh or covering for Mahammed's tomb in 
 Mecca, from the place where the parts of it ai-e made to 
 the Mosque of Hasseyn, to be sewed together preparatory 
 to the setting out of the Pilgrims to Mecca. The Kisweh 
 consisted of four pieces of black cloth, embroidered like 
 that on the tomb of Mohammed Ali, and borne upon the 
 shoulders of men. 
 
 The procession was headed by two battalions of infantry, 
 containing one thousand men, each preceded by a band of 
 fifty musicians. Then followed thousands of fellaheen, the 
 real descendants of the prophet being distinguished from 
 the others by a green turban. Some carried flags of all 
 colors and designs, and others musical instruments. As 
 the Kisweh passed many of the people ran up and rubbed 
 their hands over it " to obtain a blessing." Just behind it 
 was a gorgeous canopy borne on a large camel, the latter 
 literally covered with every ornament that could be fast- 
 
 i
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIPPEN. 127 
 
 ened to it. This camel carries the Kisweh to Mecca, &c., 
 is therefore sacred forever afterward. 
 
 Such spectacles as these give one an idea of the strength, 
 and power of the Moslem religion, and yet in one way its 
 power is broken. Twenty-five years ago no Christian dared 
 go on the streets before a 3Io.^que, or be seen during one of 
 these processions. Now there are any quantity of police- 
 men who watch all foreigners, and take especial pains to 
 see that no insult is offered them. When the procession 
 was passed we were stopped and asked if anything had 
 been said to us, or if we had any kind of" complaint to 
 make. 
 
 Fanatical devotion to Mohammedanism is rare except 
 among the poor. But Christianity is not taking its place. 
 There is a great spectre stalking through Egypt, and that is 
 infidelity. Ashamed of Mohammedan practices, the religion 
 of Jesus is none tlie less abhorred, except that foreigners 
 who are considered its special exponents command respect 
 for their superior intelligence and their citizenship in pow- 
 erful governments."
 
 128 LIFE AND LETTEES OP 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 OSIOUT AND ITS SCHOOLS. 
 
 " After mouths of waiting the Association has had a 
 meeting and disposed of us, at least for a time. Mr. aud 
 Mrs. Nichol are stationed in Mausoora, and I am to go 
 with them ' for the present.' 
 
 After the meeting, Dr. Hogg and others urged it on me 
 to go up to Osiout and see the work there before going to 
 my own field. The distance I think is two hundred and 
 thirty miles, and as we traveled second-class it was in many 
 respects an uncomfortable day. The country was beauti- 
 ful. The inundation had subsided, and the wheat was 
 everywhere of the richest green. Much of the way we 
 were in sight of the river, aud only now and then did the 
 valley widen out so much that you could not see the limits 
 on both sides. Indeed it is only a narrow strip of green 
 between the two ranges of mountains, and the more you 
 look at it the more the wouder increases that so many mil- 
 lions live upon its products. It is true, however, that the 
 support many of them receive is of the scantiest kind, 
 In fact it is the boast of the Viceroy that his fellaheen need 
 but a few metres of cloth aud a few bushels of the seed of 
 sorghum to live upon a whole year. For this miserable 
 pittance they toil all the year, live in a mud hut, sow, reap 
 and gather in their abundant harvests only to give it all 
 up to a merciless oppressor. If there is " a large Nile " 
 and good crops, the rich are made richer, but to the poor 
 fellah it is all one. A most careful calculation is made of 
 just how little he can live on, and every farthing above 
 that is violently taken from him. What other nation
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY (ilFI'EN. 120 
 
 would labor on in this way, year after year, patiently, in- 
 dustriously, and still not grow low and groveling in their 
 minds ? Perhaps most peojile think of these poor fellaheen 
 as heathen, as coarse in their dress, manner and appearance. 
 But they are not heathen. They arc intensely religious, 
 and they are innately polite, so much so that Franks often 
 impress them as very rude. Nowhere in the world is there 
 a keener sense of propriety or a more rigid adherence to 
 the forms of etiquette, albeit the points on which they lay 
 most emphasis are not always the same as with us. They 
 are quick and shrewd, and need but small opportunities to 
 develop most respectable mental characteristics. Travelers 
 are flooding the Western world with glowing accounts of 
 the magnificent developments of the Viceroy of Egypt, 
 that he is restoring the country to its original place among 
 the nations, that he is educating and enlightening his peo- 
 ple, and that he is one of the most able sovereigns of mod- 
 ern times. And he is — if the most intense selfishness the 
 world ever saw is greatness. It is true that he is making Cairo 
 like Paris, true that thei'e ai'e large government schools in 
 it and in a few other cities, true that there are magnificent 
 palaces all through the land, true that there are parks and 
 gardens and nurseries which cost millions of dollars, true 
 that there are aqueducts, canals, bridges, factories, muse- 
 ums and libraries ; but they are all for the rich. From 
 the poor all is taken. Dozens and dozens of boys Avere hard at 
 work in the fields along the railroad as we went up, with- 
 out one particle of clothing. True, the last of Novend)er 
 is not just the same here as in America, nevertheless we, 
 inside the cars, were dressed about as warmly as we would 
 have been at home. How often we thought of the Egyp- 
 tian bondage of other days, the brick that must be made 
 without straw, and of the cry that went up to heaven.
 
 130 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 Osiout made me think often of Due West, not of course 
 that the people of the two places resemble each other, or 
 that this mud city of 30,000 inhabitants is anything like 
 our little town. But it is an educational centre. There is 
 the College, the Girls' Seminary and the Theological Sem- 
 inary. Almost all with whom we came in contact were 
 either teachers or students, and it was a pleasant sight to 
 see. 
 
 The first morning I awoke at early dawn with the sound of 
 voices reading aloud near me. I soon found that it was the 
 college boys preparing their morning lessons out in a jialm 
 grove just beside the house. By the time we had taken 
 breakfast they had assembled in the church for roll call 
 and general chapel exercises. Our former teacher, Moal- 
 lim Abd el Noor, officiated, and woe to the boy Avho for a 
 second deferred answering to his name. There was not a 
 whisper in the Avhole house, and only two out of the one 
 one hundred were absent. Most of the boys are of a yel- 
 low complexion. Some of them are a good deal darker, 
 but you don't have any of the feeling that they are dull 
 Africans. They have almost universally fine spai-kling 
 eyes and bright, intelligent countenances. Many of them 
 are very handsome, but, as in other parts of the world, a 
 few of them are unfortunate enough to be, according to 
 Southern idiom, very ugly. I don't think there was one 
 of them in Frank dress, and only two or three are able to 
 afford the red tarboosh. All the rest wear caps of the 
 same shape made of coarse white cloth. The outside gar- 
 ment in most cases was a long blue gown, to which those 
 who could afford it added a shawl of some kind, worn cor- 
 nerwise, like a woman would do at home. The college is 
 just near the church, and we walked over with the teach- 
 er, He showed lis through the dormitories, kitcjieii, &c,
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 131 
 
 The beds were simply reed mats on the stone floors. On 
 each three boys sleep and have one or two blankets to 
 cover them. A slate hanging on the wall showed how 
 many boys belonged to one room. In one room twenty- 
 one were marked, in another twenty-five. The two sick 
 boys were lying on their mats, and, oh, hoAV little com- 
 fort they seemed to have, and yet we knew it was far more 
 than they were accnstomed to at home. Not long ago one 
 of them was delirious one night and ran round like a 
 madman over his sleeping room-mates. We next went 
 through the recitation rooms, four in number, Mr. Strang 
 using the church as a class room for his department. 
 These in summer would not appear uncomfortable, but in 
 winter, the stone floors, brick walls, and thin clothing of 
 the students, give one a very unpleasant sensation of shiv- 
 ering. We took seats in each of the rooms and listened 
 to the recitations. Three of the native teachers are grad- 
 uates of the Beruit College, and they know well both hoAV to 
 teach and to govern. I never saw better order or closer atten- 
 tion in my life. Indeed there was a docility in the appearance 
 of the students which I never saw before ; an eager, anx- 
 ious desire to profit by every advantage which would glad- 
 den the hearts of college professors at home, and more 
 than repay fathers and mothers for the sacrifices they make 
 in sending their sons off* to school. These boys know what 
 they are in Osiout for, and by the time they have finished 
 their course, any institution might be proud of them. 
 
 The third morning we went out with Miss Lockart to 
 her day school. All the pupils are little girls, who are 
 taught what is required for admission into the boarding- 
 school. While Ave were there a woman come in and in- 
 vited us to her house, though Miss L. had never seen her. 
 She ran off ahead of us jind had the eourt swept, mats
 
 132 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 and rugs spread out for us, and l)rouglit in her sister-in- 
 law to see us. Coffee was served on a silver salver, and 
 she brought out a beautiful lot of gold embroidery for us 
 to see. She said her husband read the Bible to her at 
 night, but would not allow her to go to church. She lis- 
 tened very attentively to all the ladies said and seemed so 
 pleased Avith the visit. From her house we went to the 
 " Congregational Academy," that is, the school supported 
 by the Osiout congregation. We found three teachers and 
 seventy-seven little boys in a room about fifteen by twenty 
 feet. The boys were packed in rows three deep all around 
 the room, Avhich left a little space for teachers and classes 
 in the centre. Two little boys read for us in the Gospel 
 who were four and a-half and four years old. What do 
 you think of that ? The little creatures were sitting flat 
 on the cold stones, and Ave could but Avonder how their lit- 
 tle heads got as much in them as they did under such un- 
 toAvard circumstances. Oh, how it does make you long for 
 money to see such things, and yet if Ave could have been 
 in Osiout ten years ago Ave might have Avondered Avhat to 
 do Avith money if Ave had had it. 
 
 Osiout is a mtd city. We Avere told that you might dig 
 down most of the houses Avith a mattock, the brick being 
 only dried in the sun. A very feAV of them are plastered 
 and AvhiteAvashed, and quite as nice to live in as the stone 
 houses of Cairo and Alexandria. One evening Ave Avent 
 up to the mountain just back of the migsion house, and 
 got from the summit Avhat Dean Stanley pronounces " the 
 finest vicAv in all Egypt." The mountain is, perhaps, six 
 or seven hundred feet high, and enables you to sweep the 
 narroAv valley Avith its green fields, mud villages and Avind- 
 ing river for perhaps tAventy-five miles in each direction. 
 We coiinted tAventy-six minarets in the city, their Avhite
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 133 
 
 spires towering u}) among the brown imid houses and glit- 
 tering like burnished steel in the bright sunsliine. Mur- 
 ray's Guide book says there are twenty thousand inhabi- 
 tants, but it looked like a little village only, and from the 
 mountain there was no appearance of a street anywhere. 
 This mountain is a famous place. Its sides are completely 
 " honey-combed " with chapels and niches for mummies. 
 One of the chapels is three hundred feet long, and once 
 had its sides and roof covered with idolatrous paintings. 
 But after the introduction of Christianity into the coun- 
 try, these chapels became the dwellings of Christian monks, 
 who covered the painted walls with a cement which still 
 remains. It is pretty well established that Jeremiah lived 
 for a time in one of these rock-hewn cells, and in another 
 lived for a long while the celebrated Monk John, to whom the 
 Emperor Theodosius sent to inquire the result of a war 
 into which he was entering. Everywhere were human 
 bones, pieces of mummy cloth and fragments of mummy 
 cases. We sat down at the summit to rest and to look 
 over the moslem cemetery at the base, and while we sat 
 there one of our donkey boys, who had seen us })icking up 
 bones, &c., ran oft' to a cell and came out with what looked in 
 the distance exactly like a little baby mummy. Dr. Hogg was 
 with us and had just buried little Artie. The sight cut us all 
 to the heart. The boy had stuck a stick into the cloth ban- 
 dages and was carrying it away up in the air. While Ave 
 looked the bandage gave way, and it fell with a thud which 
 made us shudder. However, when he came nearer he 
 threw it down among us, and it happened to be the upper 
 half of a woman's body — evidently an old one. The 
 pressure of the bandages had been so great that the breast 
 was lapped and the shoulders seemed not more than nine 
 inches across, though the forearm was nearly as long as
 
 134 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 mine. The tongue looked like a jDiece of black leather, 
 and the mouth above the tongue was filled with mummy 
 cloth. When the boy — a Moslem — threw it down, he said, 
 with an expression of contempt, " Cupteya " — Copt. Dr. 
 Hogg said, "La Wothaneeya" — an idolater. We could 
 pick the dried flesh to pieces with our fingers. It came off 
 like the grain of decayed wood, and looked very much 
 like that. When we were sitting round it, not much imag- 
 ination was required to bring up the time when the soul 
 had left this dry, broken body. We wondered where its 
 abode was now, and the hope rose in our hearts that curi- 
 ous hands might never so handle our bones." 
 
 On the last day of our stay we took breakfast, bade good- 
 bye, and left the house just at dawn. Dark as it still was, 
 however, the college boys were all out sitting on the cold 
 ground in an open place in front of the house studying 
 with all their might. Poor boys! and yet how rich and 
 fortunate they are compared with their fathers. With no 
 beds, with little but coarse bread to eat, with the scantiest 
 clothing, with no fire but the sun heat, with no lamp ex- 
 cept the moonlight, they will yet attain a point of which 
 many a favored student in America will fall short. 
 
 We left Osiout with the feeling that Dr. Hogg might 
 well look round over his work for these ten years and say, 
 " What has God wrought ; " and also with the conviction 
 that what had been accomplished in that city would, be- 
 fore the end of the century, be repeated to the very sources 
 of the Nile. God grant that it may be so, and if it is his 
 will, that our eyes may see it."
 
 I 
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 135 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 DORE's gallery — " DESCENT OF CHRIST FROM THE 
 
 PRiETORIUM." 
 
 I think that which most Americans look forward to in 
 the tour of Europe with tlie keenest anticipation, is the 
 painting and statuary of the Okl World. No volume of 
 journeyiug's, no series of newspaper articles is complete 
 without some eestatics on " the subject of the old masters." 
 
 Of course we got the infection, and we meant to see all 
 the galleries on our route, but somehow or other in London 
 we never could find the National Gallery open. We still 
 hoped to succeed till the last afternoon, and failing then 
 we decided to go to the private gallery of Gustave Dore — 
 a Frenchman, to see his new' picture of " the Descent from 
 the Pristorium." 
 
 In the ante-room were numerous woodland and moun- 
 tain scenes of great beauty, but the special attraction was 
 " The Dream of Pilate's Wife." It was 8x12 feet, I 
 think, and represented her as having risen hastily from her 
 couch with her mind full of distressing thoughts. She is 
 hurrying out from her bedroom with her hand on her brow 
 as if she felt she was dreaming when she hnew she was 
 awake. But what is so mysterious to her is plain to you. 
 An Angel is follounng her and sjieaking in her ear. Perhaps 
 the painter's solution of the cause of the dream may not 
 be a very orthodox one, but it seemed a beautiful thought, 
 when we were looking at the picture. 
 
 But the crowd was pressing into the next room and we 
 went with them. Here was such a collection as one sees 
 once in a lifetime. There were three very fine illustrations 
 of the Inferno, The Slaughter of the Innocents, The 
 
 F
 
 136 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 Coliseum by Moonlight, with the dead gladiators lying on 
 the sands and the lions and tigers walking round their vic- 
 tims. There was also a very large picture of St. Au- 
 gustine and his brother monks, and a scene in the Alps, so 
 like nature itself that I several times afterwards, imagined 
 that we passed through the identical gorge. But it was 
 some time after we entered the room before we knew 
 that these pictures were there. Another one shut these all 
 out and swallowed up every thought and feeling. If the 
 centuries had been rolled back for us and we had stood 
 in the streets of Jerusalem itself on that fearful day, 
 when Pilate delivered Jesus to be crucified, if we had 
 really heard the shouts of " crucify him, crucify him ! " 
 and had really seen the malice and wicked satisfaction 
 which looked out of the eyes of the chief priests and 
 rulers as they saw "that deceiver" descend the steps of 
 the Prsetorium. I am sure it would not have been so real 
 to us. Had we seen the actual remorse written on the 
 real face of repentant Peter, the great agony of our 
 Saviour's mother and the tender care of the beloved disci- 
 ple manifested toward her in that fearful trial we could 
 not have understood and appreciated it half so well. 
 
 The picture is 25 x 30 feet, and just fills up one end of 
 the gallery. Crimson velvet curtains variously arranged 
 throw light and shade in the most artistic manner, and the 
 moment you enter the door your eyes rivet themselves on 
 this picture. Away back in the blue, hazy distance are the 
 domes and towers of the holy city, while just in front are 
 two large buildings, from one of which Jesus is descend- 
 ing. He is about half way down a flight of thirty steps, 
 is clothed in a long white robe ; the crown of thorns is on 
 his head, his hair touches his shoulders, and the blood is 
 trickling through it and falling on the white robe. No
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY OfFFEN. 137 
 
 gory drops ever seemed more natural. It is just as if you 
 naw them rolling down his temples and dropping from the 
 ends of the hair. But he does not seem to feel it. There 
 is perfect calmness on his face, a far away look in the sol- 
 emn eyes, and an utter ignoring of his terrible surround- 
 ings, but there is no contempt in his glance. It is rather 
 as if not long before he had been saying, " O Jerusalem, 
 Jerusalem, how often would I have gathered thy children, 
 &c.," while the sorrowful heartstrings yet vibrated, though 
 the thought itself had passed away, as he was fixing his 
 soul upon his Father for strength to sustain him when he 
 should be made an offering for the sin of the world. Just 
 behind him stand Annas and Caiaphas on the stairs, and 
 you feel as if you heard them gloating over their triumph. 
 Just below, on one side, stands Peter, a great sorrow on his 
 face and wonder in his eyes, that He who walked on the 
 sea. He who could foretell his denial and convince him 
 with a look when the cock had crowed thrice, should allow 
 Himself to be led away to death. " Can He be the Christ? " 
 speaks in every line of his face. Below all is another sor- 
 rowful group. Mary stands with her hand on her breast. 
 There are no tears in her eyes, and her lips are still, but 
 her whole brow quivers. It is an unspeakable agony, and 
 you are sure that " a sword is piercing through her soul 
 also." The beloved disciple is leaning forward and speak- 
 ing to her with the deepest sympathy and affection, while 
 two great rough Roman soldiers stand gazing at her as if 
 spell-bound by the sight of such great agony. Another 
 woman, perhaps " the other Mary," is standing by, ringing 
 her hands and weeping bitterly. 
 
 These are the only countenances in those surging thous- 
 ands where there is one trace of sorrow, one hint of com- 
 passion. On the railings of the stairs, in every window, on
 
 138 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 every house top, in every balcony, the infuriated multitudes 
 are pressing for a sight of the despised Nazarine. On every 
 hand the soldiers are thrusting them back, and, like the 
 wild beasts which they seem, they are trampling each other 
 down. Here is a woman tumbling from a balcony, but not 
 more than tAvo persons seem to see it. Yonder is a man 
 crushed against a wall and crying fearfully for help, but 
 no ear hears him. Everywhere the great black eyes glare 
 on one object, and malice and envy and hate and every 
 evil passion stream out as if the rays might scorch. The 
 muscles in their bared arms are rigid, and the veins in 
 their foreheads stand out under the pressure of fearful ex- 
 citement. Their lips writhe, and their chests heave, and 
 you are sure you hear the terrible cry over and over again, 
 " Crucify him ! " "Away with such a fellow from the earth ! " 
 " His blood be on us and our children." 
 
 For a long time we could not speak. In perhaps half an 
 hour we exchanged thoughts in a whisper, and later we 
 took a Testament and read the four jjccounts of the cruci- 
 fixion. Then we tried to examine the other pictures, but 
 we would turn back to this one. And when we left we had 
 not the heart to go anywhere else as we might have done, 
 but went quietly to our hotel and waited for the time to 
 leave London. 
 
 In Rome we saw Michael Angelo's "Groat Judgment," 
 and other pictures by the old masters, but they made no 
 impression on us. They are all Catholic paintings, and 
 Catholicism wears a hateful aspect in Rome. Dore is a 
 Protestant painter, and our thoughts always went back to 
 his gallery when we saw so many painted Popes, Virgins, 
 Saints and crucifixes. The cross in Dore's i)icture lies at 
 the foot of the stairs, two soldiers are raising it to lay it on 
 the Saviour's shoulders, and the shadow it casts ou the
 
 MRS. MARY r;ALLOWAY filFFEX. 139 
 
 stepp looks so real that it seems it must be there. You 
 feel, too, that it is no crucifix, but the veritable cross. 
 
 Nothing that I saw in Europe so lingers in iny mind as 
 this magnificent picture. It is soon to be engraved, and 
 then perhaps our friends at home may get a sight of it 
 sometime. Dorc is a great painter, and has opened a new 
 school in his art. On this one j^icture he spent five years 
 of thought and labor." 
 
 This was, I presume, the first picture gallery, worthy the 
 name, into which j\Irs. Giffen had ever entered. Certainly 
 before this she had seen isolated specimens of the art, and 
 read much of " the old masters '' and their great creations, 
 yet we may truly say that this was her first introduction 
 to the art. But we question much if the annals of art 
 criticism can show anything more vivid and powerful than 
 this wonderful description of a still more wonderful paint- 
 ing. The picture here described, and which made so pro- 
 found an impression on Mrs. Giffen, has with every suc- 
 ceeding year become more and more admired and cele- 
 brated. The civilized world is to-day flooded with copies 
 of it — fully justifying all that is here said. 
 
 Mrs. Giffen wrote with great facility, and at " railway 
 speed." What was once written " Avas written." She re- 
 vised little which flowed from her ready pen, for the dou- 
 ble reason that she was very averse to such labor, and of- 
 ten had not the time to spare for this purpose. Manv of 
 her published letters, covering page after page, were not 
 only written very hurriedly, but never even read over bv 
 her, the manuscript showing not a single erasure or substi- 
 tution. The thought that her friends in America, knowing 
 little of the unfavorable circumstances under which her 
 letters were written, might think they were the best she 
 could write, troubled her. Her nu\nuscript of the letter
 
 140 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 just read, although one of the few which she revised, per- 
 haps showed not a single correction. It was written in 
 less than an hour's time, and six months after seeing the 
 painting, without a single note or help of any kind to re- 
 fresh her memory. When she saw it first, she had as she 
 expressed it, " jDut her memory on its honor and it was 
 faithful to the trust." But lest her impressions might in 
 some particular be incorrect, she submitted this letter to 
 one of her traveling companions, who stood with her be- 
 fore the marvelous picture, and he pronounced it very 
 " clearly reproduced." 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 LIFE AT MANSOORA — STUDYING AND TEACHING — GLIMPSES 
 OF NATIVE CUSTOMS. 
 
 It Avill be remembered that Mrs. Giffen was, by the as- 
 sociation, assigned for the year to Mansoora. Hence she 
 writes : 
 
 " I left Cairo for Mansoora on the 9th and came down 
 alone. This is a rather more formidable matter than at 
 home, especially when you can speak no language that 
 will be understoofl. I was greatly surprised at the num- 
 ber of trees through the country. The roads are always 
 along the banks of canals, and these trees are a most de- 
 lightful institution for the poor fellaheen. They are often 
 set out when the trunks are a foot or more in diameter and 
 the rapidity of their growth is simply amazing. I passed 
 through the " Laud of Goshen " but I had no one to tell
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 141 
 
 me where it began or how far it extended, so I cannot de- 
 scribe it now. The fields were full of laborers, part gath- 
 ering the cotton stalks, binding them nicely in great bun- 
 dles, lading them upon donkeys and camels and sending 
 them away to the markets for fuel ; and the rest plowing 
 up the soil where the cotton had grown. There are no 
 single plows there. Generally you see a cow and a camel 
 harnessed together. 
 
 Mansoora, as perhaps you know, is situated on the Da- 
 mietta branch of the Nile. It is the centre of the largest 
 and richest cotton district in Egypt. It contains forty 
 thousand inhabitants. 
 
 Our house is right on the river. The foundations touch 
 the water and the masts of the cotton boats sometimes 
 strike the porch. We have the second story, and the 
 porch extends out over the water. The house is very com- 
 fortable except that it is very cold. The river is exactly 
 on the northern side, and now when we need it so much 
 we do not get a ray of sunshine in our living rooms. 
 However, Mr. Nichol yesterday received the present of a 
 stove about the size of a " half bushel " measure, from a 
 hardware firm in Alexandria, and when we get that up Ave 
 will not shiver so much. I never prized sunshine so much 
 before, and oh ! what I w^ould give for just a little fire in 
 my room. How glad we will be when summer comes 
 again." 
 
 Although the Association did not require it and Mrs. 
 Giffen had only studied Arabic eight months, yet on her 
 arrival in Mansoora she at once opened school under what 
 difficulties we can readily imagine. She says : 
 
 " The next Monday after I came Moallim Tadrus an- 
 nounced to the boys that they were to bring their sisters 
 Tuesday morning and there would be a school for them in
 
 142 LIFE AND LETTERS OP 
 
 the church. I went next morning and found eleven girls. 
 Seven of the girls had the same name and when I called 
 that name the whole seven either screamed, " Nahm ! " — 
 here I am, or came running in wooden sandals like a small 
 avalanche. I was so tried and frightened that I couldn't 
 command the little colloquial I Jcnew and they talked so 
 rapidly and used so many contractions that I could 
 scarcely understand one word in ten. However we read 
 in the Testament, spelled and read in the primer, and had 
 Arabic and English alphabet on the blackboard. I had 
 read most in Matthew, and so I began there in school, hop- 
 ing that by asking simple questions I woiild learn to talk. 
 But the three large girls knew it from memory almost ver- 
 batim, so that when I got a question only started they 
 would run on and repeat perhaps three or four verses. So 
 I decided that would not do, and I would put them in Rev- 
 elation with the hope that they didn't know so much about 
 it. Next day I had seventeen girls, and I had the satisfac- 
 tion of finding Revelation quite a success. Thursday 
 another large girl came from Jaffa with two others from the 
 city; but, oh, what long, hard days those were! The girls, 
 as well as the Avomen, have such fearful voices. None of 
 them have the faintest idea that quiet can be a desirable 
 thing, or that it is not proper for every member of a class 
 to scream at the top of her voice to any girl in the room 
 who was not giving general satisfaction. Each one was 
 sure that she, and only she, understood what I was trying 
 to say, and that only herself could set the others straight. 
 Often I was almost in despair, but Saturday, that boon of 
 even a missionary's heart, came at last. Sabbath came 
 also, and found eight of my little wild Egyptians in 
 church, nicely dressed for them, and about half of them, 
 with their hearts set on having me go home with them
 
 MRP. MARY GALLOAVAY GIFFEN. 148 
 
 from church ; but I said " La." This week I have about 
 twenty-Jive on the roll. I am getting a little order into last 
 week's chaos, and now and then I make the wild little 
 things exceedingly ha])})y by understanding all they have 
 said and giving them a suitable answer. I have found out, 
 too, a most delightful way of comjiletely defeating them 
 when I find I can't understand. I put on a bold face and 
 talk English to them just as fast as they talk Arabic. 
 They cannot stand two sentences. It would amuse you 
 to see them run, literally mm from it. M> success with 
 the girls delighted me so much that I concluded to try it 
 on my teacher, and it had precisely the same effect only 
 that he turns round in his chair instead of running. How^- 
 ever, he always has more patience with me after I admin- 
 ister a dose of English. 
 
 It was at noon as I came home from school. The street 
 was crowded with a little of almost everything under 
 heaven. The mosques were full of men praying — it is the 
 Moslem Sabbath — and there were great crowds still rush- 
 ing to them. My elbow was jostled at almost every step, 
 for the long trains of laden camels and wagons give pedes- 
 trians but narrow limits. A donkey almost ran over me, 
 and as I was getting out of the way the driver said most 
 briskly, " Oo-ah, riglik, ya uchtee! " Take care of your 
 feet, my sister. In escaping from one evil, hoAvever, I ran 
 into another. AVhen I looked ui) a camel boy w^as shout- 
 ing to me, " Shemahlee ! " — to the left — w'hile the ani- 
 mal's mouth was almost touching my head. Sometimes I 
 climbed over the ends of cotton bags, and sometimes I 
 stood and waited for room to slip by a wagon wheel. 
 Sometimes I " tip-toed " through the mud to get past an 
 old woman's " market " — bread and eggs on a plank in 
 the street, and sometimes I stepped into a corner and let
 
 144 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 the cotton rollers get their bales past me. I got home 
 " safe and sound," however, and feeling that with all its 
 trials, I would not exchange the life on which I am enter- 
 ing for any other. I will think of home as it looked last 
 Christmas, of the little town as it was then^ of all my 
 friends as they looked then, of " the students " base-ball- 
 ing or riding, and of " the girls " as they looked when I 
 saw them last in the College Chapel .About the time we 
 sit down to dinner to-morrow I will send to them " on the 
 wings of the breeze " a happy greeting — a " Merry Chi-ist- 
 mas " — for each one a warm, loving thought from a mis- 
 sionary's heart. May it be said to each of them, " Inas- 
 much as ye have done it unto one of the least of these, ye 
 have done it unto me." 
 
 Some time ago I was passing through a narrow street 
 lined on each side with mud huts and swarming with 
 women. Five or six were sitting on the ground round a 
 door, and I asked if they could read. They said no, and 
 made a place for me beside them on the ground. I read 
 them the conversation of the Saviour with Nicodemus 
 about the " new birth." I soon discovered that they had 
 never heard of a Saviour, and must therefore be Moslems. 
 They listened and seemed highly pleased. One woman put 
 her arms around me and patted me in a very affectionate 
 way. When I got up to leave the street was blocked up, 
 and three men were standing just behind me. Of course 
 it was soon " noised abroad " that I had sat down in the 
 streets and read to Moslems, and the Protestants thought 
 it not very safe. I didn't knoAv if it was or not, but a day 
 or two before Dr. Watson was down one of the women 
 came behind me as I was going to school, put her arms 
 around me, and seemed troubled that I hadn't gone back. 
 Dr. W. told me there was no impropriety in it and I in-
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 145 
 
 tend to go every day. But I will try to get into tlie houses. 
 The girl who took hold of me in the street says " her heart 
 just opened and Mariam went into it." They had asked 
 nie my name. I think they know that I am a Protestant, 
 but they do not seem offended at it. Every new one, how- 
 ever, asks if there is anything about JMoliammed in my 
 book, but when one asked if there were any Muslemeen 
 among the English, the rest said, " Shame on you ! " Of 
 course their kindness is only because they are pleased to 
 have "a Sitt" come into their poor little houses and fur- 
 nish them something new and nice to gossip about. Every 
 time they pass behind me, unless I am reading, they kiss 
 me and pat me and call down every blessing on me. 
 There is, of course, much to re])el one, and not much to 
 encourage the hope that one can ever communicate the 
 truth to such determined JMoslems, but when I see how 
 pleased they are when I go, and how empty their lives 
 are, I think I ought not to regret the time it requires. It 
 will give me an opportunity to learn something about 
 Moslems, besides helping me in talking. They have com- 
 menced teaching me the proper answers to polite expres- 
 sions, and they almost " eat me up " when I do it cor- 
 rectly. It is perhaps in my favor that I cannot talk 
 much, and I do not intend to let them know that I un- 
 derstand a good deal more than I can say. I can find 
 out their animus in this way. 
 
 Each side of the river here is almost lined with 
 boats, and hundreds of people seem to live in them. In 
 fact the Nile is the great centre. No wonder idolatrous 
 Egypt worshiped it, calling it a God. It comes up over 
 the land, bringing food and gladness with it. It is the 
 Arabs great highway of travel and commerce, the gener- 
 ous fountain from which he quenches his thirst, and the
 
 14G LIFE AND LETTERS OP 
 
 plentiful bath in which he cleanses his not over fastidious 
 person, and especially is it the great newer for every city 
 on its banks. Any time you may look out you may see 
 the women going down with their water jars and clothes 
 to be washed. The latter are flapped over and over in the 
 water and then rolled up into a lump and beaten on the 
 bank, then put into the water again. When finished the 
 woman gives her feet and limbs a bath, and without mov- 
 ing out of her tracks in the edge of the water, fills her jar 
 with water and goes home and drinks it. But when our 
 water man wishes to be very nice he takes a boat and goes 
 into the middle of the stream, which is perhaps four hun- 
 dred yards wide here, and fills a goat skin there. The 
 popular belief liere is that the water of the Nile is purified 
 from anything in running a foot. But since I went to 
 Osiout and saw all the washing and bathing done in the 
 river and canals, and since I have been here on the very 
 bank of the stream, I don't enjoy the water as much as I 
 did Avhen I was in Alexandria. 
 
 I have just returned from a house of death, a house of 
 Egyptian mourning, and if you had seen what we did, you 
 would thank God for a Christian country and for Christian 
 burial when life is over, as perhaps you never did before* 
 
 The boy was in his seventeenth year, and had been 
 pretty well educated in our boy's school, could speak Eng- 
 lish quite fluently and wrote it beautifully. In fact his 
 father had almost consented for him to go with the Consul 
 to the Centennial, as his interpreter. He was a promising 
 boy and his fiither's " first-born " — which has a wonderful 
 amount of meaning here. So of course it was a terrible 
 blow. When I went to the house I found about sixty or 
 seventy men, the father among them, seated in perfect si- 
 lence on each side of the street in front of the house ;
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFPEN. 147 
 
 though long before I reached there I could hear the wail- 
 ing of the women up stairs. I went up and found the 
 body lying on the mattress of a divan in the centre of the 
 drawing-room, an ordinary lady's shawl being spread cor- 
 ner-wise all over it. About fifty women were crowded into 
 the rather small room and were all sitting on the floor 
 just as near the body as it was possible for them to get. 
 The step-mother sat at his left side. Everyone had a small 
 fancy silk handkerchief in her hands, which she moved in 
 such a way as to keep perfect tim^ with the chant and 
 wailing. The body is swayed to and fro continually, and 
 the little shawl is gx-asped, an end in each hand in a loose, 
 graceful way, and the time is kept by dropping both hands 
 on the lap and then throwing them up again. Sometimes, 
 too, to indicate stronger feeling, the shawl is taken nearer 
 the corners and thrown round and round until it twists 
 and then is suddenly jei-ked out as I have often seen 
 children twirl a button on a string. Every new-comer 
 stood up as near as she could get to the corpse and did this 
 leaning over it. Then sometimes they would lay down the 
 shawls and placing both hands together strike their faces 
 with the palms, all in perfect time Avith the chant. When 
 I went in they gave me a seat on a divan where I could 
 see all that was going on. The step-mother's sister sat at 
 the feet and was screaming at the top of her voice, " Ya 
 habeebee! Ya Azeezee ! " O ray beloved one, O my pre- 
 cious one ! Then perhaps in the next breath she would lit- 
 erally yell at some servant or some one who wasn't pleas- 
 ing her, or get up, give them a shove or a jerk in the right 
 direction and come back to her wailing. The mother was 
 more quiet, but as night approached they all became more 
 violent. Sometimes the whole fifty would shriek in con- 
 cert, a peculiar scream which cannot be described and
 
 148 LIFE AND LETTERS OP 
 
 which can never be mistaken for any other cry. Some- 
 times part would chant and part wail, and sometimes only 
 one would chant and at certain points all the rest wail in 
 a wild, fearful chorus. In the chant itself there was 
 something very beautiful. But I could not catch the 
 words. The last refrain however sounded exactly like " O 
 thou holy one ! " in English, but of course it wasn't. 
 
 Up to the time the coffin came I had seen little evidence 
 of real feeling or sorrow. And it seemed to me if Satan 
 had designed to invent the custom which would most effec- 
 tually choke reflection and right feeling, he could not 
 have devised a more fitting expedient than oriential mourn- 
 ing. 
 
 After the procession was gone I went and sat down by the 
 mother. She was chanting a soft and most touchingly pa- 
 thetic lament over her son. " Ya Ibnee, Ya Ibnee ! " — O 
 my son, my son ! O my beloved one, my lamented one ! 
 Gone this night, my boy, O my boy ! Would to God you 
 could come to me, my precious one, my light-giving one ! " 
 I never heard anything like it, but I thought instantly of 
 David in his great sorrow, " O Absalom ! my son, my son ! " 
 though that always imj)i'essed me as the expression of 
 passionate grief This, however, was a regular chant, in a 
 soft, touching, minor, an improvisation to the accompani- 
 ment of the voice, the gentle swaying of the body and the 
 motion of the handkerchief — such a " lament " as poets de- 
 scribe and yet never hear. It rings still in my ears and I 
 know will mingle itself with my dreams. 
 
 Another soul gone to stand before its Judge ! We hope 
 it may have been washed in the cleansing blood, clothed in 
 the precious robe, but there is only a hope. May we all be 
 the better for the terrible scene through which we have 
 passed this day, and with strengthened faith and deepened
 
 MES. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEX. 149 
 
 love exclaim from the fullness of grateful hearts, " Thanks 
 be unto God for his unspeakable Gift! " 
 
 Yesterday one of my little girls insisted that I should 
 go home with her at noon. 
 
 I found two families in the house, and as I went in the 
 little blind brother of the girl called out, " Welcome, wel- 
 come ! " on hearing my voice. I had my Testament in my 
 hand, and after a little "small talk," they ask me to read, 
 but my eyes were still so hot I didn't dare to use them, so 
 the two women took advantage of the o])portunity to find 
 out something more about me, as, for instance, where I 
 lived, who was in the house with me, if I were a Copt or a 
 Moslem, if I had any friends, if my father and mother 
 were alive. When I answered the last question in the af- 
 firmative they seemed greatly surprised, and asked if they 
 loved me. No native here can understand how we can 
 leave a father and mother to go to a foreign land. Even 
 the members of our churches do not find it easy to com- 
 prehend. They regard it as deserting those to whom we 
 are bound by indissoluble ties, and it is sometimes rather 
 hard for us to listen patiently to their assertions that we 
 are destitute of natural affection. They always ask me if 
 I have any brothers, but they feel no interest in knowing 
 that I have sisters too. When I say I have brothers they 
 ask instantly if they are married, and when I tell them 
 one is, their curiosity is at white heat to know if he has 
 any little ones. Yes, I answer, two boys. " May they be 
 blessed," they exclaim. If I should say, " Yes, two nice 
 little girls," their countenances would fall instantly, and 
 they would say in most pitying tones, " Meakeen, meakeen ! " 
 " Poor things, poor things ! " It is wonderful the meaning 
 they can throw into these two words, " Bint bess," — only a 
 girl.
 
 150 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 I read the 6th chapter of Matthew, and we talked about 
 it a little. But of course it is yet very difficult for me to 
 make very much explanation, especially to those who know 
 nothing of the Gospel. The blind boy came and sat by 
 me while I read, and occasionally made some remark. 
 When I finished, he said, " That is Matthew." I said it 
 was, and asked him how he knew, when he told me he 
 knew all the Gospels, because he went to a Coptic school. 
 I then told the women that Dr. Watson was coming to- 
 morrow, and would preach Sabbath, and they both said 
 they would come to church. The boy said, " that I could 
 hear him ! " 
 
 "You might 'put yourself in our place' with a good deal 
 of accuracy, if you would imagine yourself and Mrs. B. [This 
 letter was written to Dr. Bonner, editor Presbyterian. — Ed.], 
 engaged in work among the freedmen of the South, in a 
 city where there was just one family working with you, 
 but whom you rarely had time to visit, and whom you 
 therefore did not often see except to meet at church twice 
 on Sabbath. There would be the difference, however, that 
 Arabs have more mind than our freedmen, and that some 
 of them have Avealth, but Ave do not have much to do with 
 the rich ones, as a rule, and even if we did, very, very few 
 of them have habits which would make it really pleasant 
 to associate with them as we do with our friends at home. 
 And I think there is probably no missionary who does not 
 feel more or less repugnance at first. I have heard differ- 
 ent members of our Mission speak of this, and some have 
 confessed to a degree of it which I never felt, though I 
 think it Avould naturally be expected that I should have 
 felt it most. You soon see that the people have mind and 
 are capable of being taught, and the consideration that it 
 is " for Christ's sake" reconciles you to much that would 
 otherwise be very repulsive.
 
 MRS. MARY <4A1.1.0WAY GIFFEN. 151 
 
 Before I left home, I read a letter from this Mission de- 
 scribing the things that JVIissionaries Avere expected to eat 
 which very much shocked and discouraged me, but now 
 that I have had the experience I count all such things as 
 one of my very small trials. It is often not at all pleas- 
 ant at the time, but when I come out into the pure air, 
 come into our own clean, comfortable room, and sit down 
 to a nice, clean dinner, the contrast only makes it the more 
 enjoyable. So do not think that considerations of this sort 
 should frighten any one from undertaking mission life." 
 \ The year spent in Mansoora was to Mrs. Gifien a most 
 trying one. In her private letters she said : " I would not 
 live over that first year again for a great deal. Opening 
 school in eight months after coming to the country, with 
 such a limited knowledge of the language, with no gram- 
 mar or dictionary, or adequate help of any kind — it was 
 the hardest thing I ever undertook, and with all the other 
 attending perplexities it almost killed me." 
 
 At the end of the year she was entirely ])rostrated by 
 anxiety and overwork, and in addition was seized with 
 jungle fever. Throughout Mrs. Giften's entire mission life 
 she labored too hard for her good, endeavoring to do more 
 than her strength warranted, thus making herself more 
 liable to the attack of disease. Had she been compelled 
 to labor on in the same way and under similar circum- 
 stances, another year would have cut short her mission 
 career and laid her to rest in the cemetery at Alexandria. 
 But fortunately her marriage rescued her from this peril. 
 
 Yet during this same year she writes : " I am happy 
 here and think I always will be. Nothing troubles me but 
 my anxiety to get the language." " I am perfectly satis- 
 fied Avith the lot I have chosen, and know no other in the 
 world for which I would willingly exchange it,"
 
 152 LIFE AND LETTEES OF 
 
 So thoroughly was her soul enlisted in her work, that 
 during this year Avhen the missionaries and more devoted 
 converts began to agitate the question of establishing a 
 mission in Abyssinia, twelve hundred miles further south, 
 she wrote her friends in America to this effect, " In a year 
 or two — just as soon as a lady can go, I will consent to go 
 and work among the seventy-five millions of Abyssinia, 
 Avho have never so much as heard of a Saviour." 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 " Before I left home a great many of my friends gave 
 me special injunctions about different things which I was 
 to look at for their special benefit. Prominent among 
 these was " The Pyramids^ But it was not until just as 
 I was leaving Cairo that I visited them. I had heard so 
 much about the difficulty of the ascent, the weary, worn- 
 out, eighty-years-old feeling of the first three or four days 
 succeeding such an excursion, and also of the overpower- 
 ing sensation of terror which seizes almost every one who 
 goes inside the great monument, that I must confess I was 
 not very enthusiastic about making the visit. However, 
 as much from a sense of duty as otherw'ise, I decided to 
 go. Mr. A. and INIisses J. and T. accompanied me. It is 
 a drive of about ten miles from the city, and we took a 
 carriage and started after early breakfast. 
 
 Formerly it was rather an undertaking to get over these 
 ten miles, but on the ocaasion of the Empress Eugenie's
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 153 
 
 visit to Egypt the Viceroy had a beautiful carriage way 
 constructed the entire distance. Trees, perhaps a foot in 
 diameter were set out closely on each side, and now their 
 thick branches overlap each other in beautiful arches and 
 form the largest and prettiest avenue I ever saw. Scarcely 
 a ray of sunlight can pierce the thick foliage, and even 
 when the day is quite warm you need a liberal supply of 
 wraps to make the di-ive to the Pyramids a comfortable 
 one. 
 
 Perhaps you know that there are about thirty-eight or 
 forty of the pryamids of Ancient Egypt still standing. 
 They extend over about a degree of latitude, and are sit- 
 uated on the western side of the river, just on the edge of 
 the Libyan Hills. They, therefore, overlook the sandy 
 wastes of the desert on one side and the green valley of 
 the Nile on the other ; and during the inundation the 
 water of the river comes up very near to the base of the 
 great pyramid. When we went most of it had disap- 
 peared, and the people were busy sowing grain on the 
 mud. Two or three miles before we reached the place 
 Arab boys began to troop after us, regarding us as legiti- 
 mate objects of boot}'. They take it for granted that all 
 travelers have plenty of money, and if you have not 
 some skill in dismissing them you will have the identical 
 dozen at your elbow from the time you step out of the car- 
 riage until you enter it again. One boy had a kooleie of 
 water — the native mud bottle — and he assured us we 
 shouldn't be thirsty all day. Another one, who could 
 speak a little broken English, would see that we were 
 understood and attended to, &c. Our driver whipped his 
 horses most unmercifully in the effort to escape the boys, 
 but let him go as fast as he would there they were beside 
 the wheels and there they stayed. There was no sensible
 
 154 ' lifp: and letters of 
 
 ascent in the drive until about an eighth of a mile from 
 the base. There the hills begin rather suddenly, and 
 there the patience and long-suffering of our horses quite 
 failed them, and not a step further would they go until we 
 all got out and walked on before them. Then, by dint of 
 a very liberal allowance of the whip, they consented to 
 take our lunch up to the top of the hill. 
 
 As you approach the pyramids, you are surprised that 
 they do not seem to grow larger. You have heard so 
 much of their magnitude that you feel disappointed until 
 you get almost up the hill, then you make a great effort to 
 get control of all your emotions in the presence of such a 
 monster as the great one is when you come up to its base 
 and run your eye up its ragged sides away to the flagstaff 
 on the lofty summit. If you accept the commonly re- 
 ceived opinion that this vast pile of stone was built for the 
 sole purpose of affording a distinguished place of inter- 
 ment for a haughty heathen monarch, you will look at 
 the immense stones of which it is built, and think with a 
 sigh of the ten thousand poor suffering Egyptians who 
 toiled here for tldrty years, in summer's heat and winter's 
 cold, to gratify the pride and ambition of one single man. 
 But if you are a believer in the more recent theory that 
 the Great Pyramid is a pre-historic monument of an emi- 
 nently grand and pure conception, which though in Egypt 
 is yet not of Egypt, and whose true and full explanation is 
 yet to come, then you will run your eye over the long rows 
 of stones in the lengthy sides, you will let it travel slowly 
 up the dizzy height from base to summit, and from sum- 
 mit to base again, until the one grand whole fixes itself 
 in your brain forever. Then you will long to know what 
 the great purpose of its construction was, and where in all 
 its vast interior is the hidden chamber which holds ita 
 hoary secret.
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY (ilFFKX. l-^^ 
 
 But, if you wish to moralize or philosophize to auy con- 
 siderable extent, you will have to do it somewhere else 
 than on the pyramid hill. It always .nmrms with what are 
 known the world over as Pyramid Arabs. That is, it is 
 considered the legitimate calling and occu})ation of the 
 inhabitants of the village of Geezeh to assist travelers or 
 visitors to the top of the pyramid, and in the meantime to 
 extract from them buksheesh on every possible pretext 
 which Arab ingenuity can invent. Mark Twain says they 
 clamored buksheesh for allowing him to get out of his 
 carriage, buksheesh for handing him his overcoat, buk- 
 sheesh for permitting him to put on his gloves, buksheesli 
 for allowing him to take a drink of water, buksheesh for 
 eating his lunch, and buksheesh for getting into his car- 
 riage. And the story is perhaps not greatly exaggerated. 
 These Arabs have wonderful memories, and rarely forget 
 a face they have once seen. They said I was the only one 
 of the party who had never been there, which was true. 
 Mr. A. had made the ascent in the spring and they remem- 
 bered him, though thousands of travelers from all over 
 the world go there every winter. They recognized Miss 
 Johnson as a resident of Cairo and a member of the 
 American Mission, and consequently they conducted them- 
 selves very properly. 
 
 I must confess I felt rather appalled at the idea of climb- 
 ing to the top of such a ragged mass of stones, but I had 
 come for that purpose, and was determined not to let my 
 heart fail me. Only Miss J. and myself were to go up. 
 So we got into the carriage and took a nice lunch in the 
 way of fortifying ourselves for the undertaking. Mean- 
 time Mr. A. selected three Arabs for each of us, made a 
 bargain with the sheik that we were to pay one dollar for 
 the ascent and two francs for the interior, and nobody was
 
 156 LIFE AND LETTERS OP 
 
 to even whisper buksheesh. They agreed, and we went 
 round to the entrance, and went up fifteen or twenty feet 
 of rubbish. When we came to the stones, one of the 
 Arabs gathered up our dresses and made them into a mys- 
 terious knot behind, so that we should be in no danger of 
 stepping on them. Two precede you, and you give each a 
 hand, and one follows and partly lifts you where the layers 
 are very high. Sometimes from one step to another is five 
 feet, and that, of course, is difficult climbing, but much of 
 the way the stones are so worn and broken that you can 
 stick your foot into crevices and climb with comparatively 
 ease without much assistance from the third man. At 
 short distances we stopped, rested, and enjoyed the beauti- 
 tiful views spread out around us. Much of the drive from 
 Cairo could be traced by the trees, and the city with its 
 mosques and minarets stood out boldly against the Arabian 
 hills in the back ground. The river, canals, and many 
 small lakes yet remaining from the inundation, broke the 
 monotony of the great level plain, and looked as blue as 
 the blue sky above us. It was desert air we were breath- 
 ing, and this, or something else, infused into my whole be- 
 ing such a feeling of exhilaration and keen enjoyment as 
 I never knew before. I felt no fatigue nor any sense of 
 fear, and I could have walked all round any one of the 
 layers without the least approach of giddiness. 
 
 We were at the summit before I had thought of our hav- 
 ing accomplished more than two-thirds of the distance, and 
 instantly one of my Arabs almost convulsed me with a 
 comic bow, and a still more comic salutation of " hoiv do 
 you feel nowf" in broken English. It wasn't comically 
 meant ; he merely Avished to inquire with an imitation of 
 French gallantry if I was weary, but his slow-labored 
 enunciation sounded so like the questions which are often
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEX. 157 
 
 addressed to " sick people," tliat the contrast between a 
 sick bed and my own feelings at the moment was almost 
 too nuioh for me. 
 
 The level space on which we found ourselves at the top 
 is about thirty feet square, that is, that much of the apex 
 of the pyramid was torn down when the casing stones were 
 removed by the Caliphs. Some of the loose stones yet re- 
 main and serve for seats. Their sides and the whole sur- 
 face of the platform are covered with the autographs of 
 ambitious travelers, and prominent among them is that of 
 the Prince of AVales. However, I do not suppose he put 
 his name there himself. We didn't leave ours, under the 
 impression that future visitors would be able to survive 
 the omission. We simply walked round and looked down 
 all the sides. Oh ! what an immense pile it seemed. Only 
 think of thirteen acres of stones towering up to a point at 
 the distance of four hundred and seventy feet and your- 
 self standing away up on that point. If you never felt 
 humble before, you certainly will now, and if you should 
 never feel insignificant again, you will get an experience 
 here which a lifetime will scarcely efface. I can imagine 
 the awe which Niagara inspires, the wonderful impression 
 of force, power and motion which might almost overpower 
 one when looking upon its leaping waters and listening to 
 its deafening roar. But the great pyi-amid is something 
 different in the impression it leaves from anything I ever 
 saw before. There it has stood since before the time of 
 Abraham, and there it is likely to stand until the end of 
 time. It seems a magnificent monument of silent endur- 
 ance. The Coliseum is vast and impressive, but it is a ruin, 
 and the light of day shines through every rent and chasm. 
 All is known, the people who built it and those who en- 
 joyed it. But on the pyramid hill there is a silence like
 
 158 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 that of death, a stilhiess like that of the "everlasting 
 hills," an incomprehensible, undefinable something, Avhich 
 makes you feel like subduing the laugh on your lips. You 
 do not feel that you are in the j)resence of simple matter, 
 matter which will some day return to its original dust. I, 
 at least, felt myself in the presence of mind, of mind in 
 sympathy and conmiunion with God, of mind which knew 
 the secrets of the world. 
 
 But I will stop, lest you write me down a heretic. If 
 you are not acquainted with the new theories about the 
 great pyramid, you will not sympathize very deeply in the 
 sensations I experienced. Next week, perhaps, I will give 
 you some account of the Piazzi Hmyth doctrines, and you 
 can then judge for yourself if it is probable that this im- 
 mense structure was designed simply for the grave of one 
 man. 
 
 We were almost ready to begin the descent before it oc- 
 curred to me that there was a Sphinx down in the sand 
 beneath us. I am afraid Prof. K. is horror-stricken ; but 
 it is a faci, and when I did look it was principally for his 
 sake. From our lofty position it seemed almost nothing, 
 and when we came down and went to it, there was posi- 
 tively nothing to excite enthusiasm. It is a big head sim- 
 ply, Avith a face and expression just like many of the 
 purely native Egyptians. There was just one other point 
 of interest — that the huge mouth wore a plea,sant expres- 
 sion. It is of later times than the Great Pyramid — Bruchs 
 Bey and his new hieroglyphical stone, which is to be at the 
 Centennial, to the contrary — and moreover it belongs to 
 the old idolatrous religion. Nothing except the top of the 
 lion back is visible now, so that there is really nothing but 
 the complacent old face, always smiling on those drifting 
 .«ands to impress one.
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFPEN. 159 
 
 We all went inside the pyramid, had the chaiiibers and 
 passages illuminated with magnesium wire, and saw pretty 
 well all that was to be seen. But I will tell you about that 
 again. We came out, took another lunch, paid off' our 
 Arabs, and drove into the city just at sunset. It was a very, 
 very pleasant day, and I came back less fatigued than I 
 have often felt from a lono- walk." 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 PYRAMIDS — CONTINUED. 
 
 " About forty years ago an Englishman by the name of 
 Taylor became interested in the subject of the Great 
 Pyramid and began the close study of all the scientific 
 measurements made upon it. He arrived at some rather 
 startling conclusions, but died ^vithout ever seeing the 
 pyramid. His views however were taken up and adopted 
 by several distinguished men. Prominent among them is 
 the Astronomer Royal of Scotland, Piazzi Smyth, who 
 came and lived for months on the pyramid hill in order to 
 have every opportunity for testing the great problem. 
 
 The commonly received opinion that this pyramid was 
 designed as a magnificent monument and burial place for 
 the king who built it, is supposed to have grown out of the 
 fact that a stone coffer of about the usual size for receiving 
 a mummy case was found in the interior when the Caliph 
 Al Mamoon forced an entrance into it, coupled with the 
 fact that all the other thirty-seven or thirty-eight were 
 known to have been constructed for sepulchral purposes.
 
 160 LIFE AND LETTERS OP 
 
 They all abound in the pictorial and hieroglyphical repre- 
 sentations ^Yhich were part and parcel of the ancient re- 
 ligion of Egypt, and therefore proclaim themselves the 
 products of heathen builders. But in the Great Pyramid 
 there is not a vestige of heathenism, nor the most distant 
 allusion to the Avorship of the sun, moon, or any of the 
 starry host of heaven. Manetho and Herodotus aifirm 
 that it was built by a power which was " an abomination 
 to the Egyptians," but which they implicitly obeyed, work- 
 ing however under such compulsion and constraint as com- 
 pelled them to refrain from putting any of their accus- 
 tomed decorations on the finished building, or in any way 
 identifying it with their impure and hieratic form of wor- 
 ship. And when the power was relaxed, though they hated 
 its name so as to forbear even mentioning it, yet with in- 
 voluntary bending to superior intelligence they began im- 
 itating, as well as they could, its more ordinary mechanical 
 features. 
 
 Taylor decided in his own mind that what was hateful to 
 the Egyptians could not have been in itself bad, must on 
 the contrary have been good, or at all events that the 
 builders were of a different religious faith. Combining this 
 with certain historical facts, and with the numerous and 
 peculiar symbol izations of both exterior and interior, he 
 declared his belief that its builders were of the chosen race, 
 in the line of, but preceding, Abraham, and that he had 
 discovered in the arrangements and measurements of the 
 Great Pyramid scientific results in the shape of numerical 
 knowledge of grand cosmical phenomena, both of earth 
 and heavens, far above the scientific attainments of any 
 ancient Gentile nation, and essentially above even that of 
 our own time. 
 
 By removing all the debris from the northern face of 
 the pyramid an almost exact measurement of its original
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 161 
 
 base was obtained. There, too, were found tn^o of the 
 original casing stones, five feet high, eight feet wide and 
 twelve feet long, yet in position, with their edges beveled 
 and joined in a cemented seam of no greater thickness than 
 tissue paper. These enabled Colonel Vyse and his engi- 
 neers to contrast angular with linear measure, and thus to 
 arrive at the exact original height. Consequently they 
 were able to verify Taylor's first proposition, that the height 
 of the Great Pyramid is to twice the breadth of its base as the 
 diameter to the circumference of a circle ; or that the area 
 of a right section is to the area of the base as one to 
 3.141594 ; or stating it differently, that the vertical height 
 of the Great Pyramid is the radius of a theoretical circle 
 the curved length of whose circumference is equal to the 
 sum of the lengths of the four straight sides of the actual 
 base. 
 
 This of course is the celebrated practical problem of 
 mediaeval and modern Europe — " the squaring of the cir- 
 cle " and its solution in this great building must have been 
 the result either of marvellous accident or of deep wisdom 
 thousands of years in advance of its own time — wisdom 
 however which did not address itself to its contemporaries, 
 but left it for distant posterity. 
 
 Second, Taylor claimed that owing to the comjolicated 
 fractions arising fr(.Hn assuming the British foot or the 
 Egyptian cubit of 20.7 inches as the standard of linear 
 measure used in constructing the pyramid, that some other 
 unit must have been used. Accordingly after various 
 tests he found that the base lengths of each side — which 
 is about seven hundred and sixty-three feet — when divided 
 by the one ten-millionth of the earth's semi-axis of rota- 
 tion, gives the length of our solar year, or conversely if the 
 semi-axis be divided by the number expressing the solar
 
 162 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 year, the result is the one ten-millionth of the semi-axis, 
 or close upon tAventy-five British inches. This measure 
 Taylor, Smyth, and others call the " sacred cubit," or the 
 cul)it of the Bible, in contradistinction to that of the 
 Egyptians and Babylonians. The unit of this measure, 
 one inch, is the one ten-thousandth part, or half a hair's 
 breadth less than the British inch, and the whole measure 
 Avith its multiple of five is a dominant number all through 
 the building. The French metre you know was obtained 
 by taking the one ten-millionth of a quadrant of the earth's 
 surface ; but late progress in Geodesy has shown that the 
 earth's equator is not a circle but an irregular, curvilinear 
 figure of as many different lengths as there are ineridians 
 of longitude. Consequently after Taylor made known his 
 theory of the origin of the sacred cubit, vSir John Herschel 
 said : " So long as the human mind continues human, and 
 retains a power of geometry, so long will the diameter be 
 thought of more importance than the circumference of a 
 circle." Here, then, according to pyramid theorists, is a 
 standard of linear measure for the whole world infinitely 
 superior to the French metre with its false basis and its 
 adoption by a nation which declared there was no God, 
 and which even counted its Sabbaths in decimals. 
 
 I have said above that the circle typified by the base 
 of the great pyramid was claimed to symbolize the solar 
 year, or the annual revolution of the earth around the sun, 
 and the radius of that circle the ancient height of the 
 pyramid, would then represent the semi-diameter of the 
 earth's orbit, or the radius of the earth's mean orbit. Conse- 
 quently, if these assumptions can be proved, it will be no dif- 
 tieult matter to arrive at the solution of the great problem 
 \\ liich so stirred the scientific world last year on the occa- 
 sion of the " transit of Venus" — the question of the dis-
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 163 
 
 tance of the sun from the earth. During the last half 
 century this has been held to be 95,000,000 miles ; and 
 our theorists felt sure that this number would result from 
 a calculation based on the 5,813 pyramid inches of the 
 pyramid's height ; but when the computation was com- 
 pleted, to their amazement, it turned out 91,840,000 in- 
 stead of 95,000,000. But in a year or two this latter 
 quantity was strongly called in question by even the best 
 astronomers of the day, one group affirming it to be from 
 ninety -one to ninety -one and a-half million miles, and 
 another that it was from ninety-two to ninety-two and 
 a-half million miles. So Smyth and his disciples took 
 heart again and concluded that theirs was the true mean — 
 the golden medium, and are waiting with great anxiety to 
 hear the summing up from the observations of last year 
 on the " transit of Venus." * 
 
 When Napoleon's Parisian savants were in Egypt they 
 made many measurements and observations on the Pyra- 
 mid. The result which surprised them most was that its 
 sides were oriented, that is, it is placed with its sides facing 
 astronomically due north, south, east and west — lacking 
 only about one minute — a proof as they supposed " that 
 the azimuthal direction of the earth's axis had not sensi- 
 bly altered relatively to the great Pyramid's base during 
 probably 4,000 years." These savants also used the apex 
 of the pyramid as the zero meridian of longitude for all 
 Egypt, and this they did from regard to its peculiar posi- 
 tion. Afterwards Henry Mitchell, of the United States 
 Coast Survey, in reporting upon the Suez canal in 1868, 
 was greatly struck with the regularity of curvature along 
 the whole of Egypt's northern coast. It seemed to him 
 
 *The distance from the earth to sun is now estimated at 92,500,- 
 000 miles.
 
 164 LIFE AND LETTEES OF 
 
 to have been developed in successive curves, all struck one 
 after another from a central point of physical organiza- 
 tion ; and then after long and careful search he thought 
 he found this center in the great pyramid, and decided in 
 his own mind that " this monument stands in a more im- 
 portant position than any other building yet erected by 
 man." It stands on the very cliff of the Geezeh Hill, so 
 close that the edges might have broken off under the im- 
 mense pressure had not the builders banked up there the 
 immense mounds of rubbish which came from their work, 
 and which Strabo searched so carefully for, without find- 
 ing them, 1,800 years ago. The pyramid thus occupies 
 the position of the handle of a fan — the delta being the 
 fan, or, to express it differently, the pyramid is the apex 
 of a triangle whose base is the northern coast of Egypt. 
 Besides, if you proceed along the globe due north and 
 south from the great pyramid there will be found to be 
 more earth and less sea in that meridian than in any 
 other all the world round, causing it to be essentially 
 marked by nature as a, prime meridian for all nations. 
 And the same is true of the pyramid's parallel of 30°. It 
 contains more land surface than any other. Finally sum- 
 ming up all the dry land habitable by man, the wide world 
 over, the center of the whole falls within the great pyra- 
 mid's territory of Lower Egypt. 
 
 These, then, according to Taylor and others, are the 
 symbolizations of the exterior of this wonderful structure : 
 
 First, That it gives the long sought quantity, so neces- 
 sary in all mechanics known to mathematicians by the 
 Greek character jj. 
 
 Second, That it furnishes a standard of linear measure 
 from the unit of Avhich the British inch was without 
 BQUch doubt originally taken, and which has many claims 
 to superiority oyer the French standard.
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 165 
 
 Third, that it furnishes the true diameter and circum- 
 ference of the earth's orbit, and also the true distance 
 from the sun. 
 
 Fourth, That the azimuth of the earth's axis has not 
 sensibly altered in 4,000 years. 
 
 Fifth, That it gives the best meridian of longitude for 
 the whole world. 
 
 And sixth, That it stands in the center of the land sur- 
 face of the earth. 
 
 Perhaps you may not feel inclined to accept any of 
 these deductions, but I think you must allow that they are 
 at least remarkable, and some of them very interesting. 
 At any rate, after having heard them once fully stated, I 
 think one must be either very credulous or very incredu- 
 lous, if he can hold on to the old theory that the wonder- 
 ful mechanical skill, and the many and strong evidences 
 of design everywhere manifest in this vast structure, were 
 only intended to furnish a safe place of burial for a body 
 which never came into it. 
 
 But the theory is mainly Iniilt upon the interior, of 
 which I will write you again. There is another point, too, 
 which perhaps I should mention. It is that these mathe- 
 matical quantities and symbolizations are not found in any 
 other of the thirty-eight or forty pyramids of Lower 
 Egypt, which have been measured and tested. Every one 
 of them errs in angle, size and position, being all little 
 else than crumbling monuments of idolatry. 
 
 The ancients knew nothing of the interior of the Great 
 Pyramid, except that like all the others it contained a de- 
 scending narrow passage with a chamber at the bottom, 
 and a tradition that somewhere within it there was a vast 
 store of hidden treasure. Externally it was complete in 
 its casing sheet of beveled limestone, and when in 820 Al
 
 166 LIFE AXD LETTERS OF 
 
 Mamoon determined to penetrate the secret, if secret there 
 was, tradition could only dimly dii*ect him to the northern 
 face, and as the builders must have foreseen, he began in 
 the center. But it was hard work quarrying into stone 
 almost as solid as the hill on which it was founded. The 
 workmen gave u]) in despair, declaring the thing impossi- 
 ble, but the Caliph affirmed that it should certainly be 
 done. So after months of toilsome exertion they had pene- 
 trated one hundred feet from the entrance, and one day 
 they were rewarded by hearing a stone fall in some hollow 
 place, within a few feet of them. They pushed on then 
 in the direction of the noise, hammers, fire and vinegar 
 being used until they broke into the hollow passage way, 
 through which the Romans of old had penetrated to the 
 subterranean chamber. But now another secret W'as ex- 
 posed. A large angular fitting stone, that had made for 
 ages a portion of the ceiling of the narrow j^assage, had 
 dropped on the floor, revealing that there was another 
 passage clearly ascending towards the south, out of this 
 descending one, the entrance to which had perhaps been 
 known to the Romans. The ascending passage was hoAv- 
 ever still closed by a series of granite plugs, slided down 
 from above. To remove these was impossible with the 
 rude tools of that day, and so the Moslem crew dug round 
 and above it in the softer limestone, and opened the way 
 from above. They found the passage ascending at an angle 
 of twenty-six degrees for one hundred and ten feet, but 
 only forty-seven inches in height and forty-one in breadth. 
 Suddenly they emerged into a long tall gallery, seven 
 times the height of the passage, and one hundred and fifty 
 _feet long. Just on the right hand of the entrance was the 
 mouth of a dark well, one hundred and forty feet in 
 depth, leading into the descending passage near the sub-
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. j 1G7 
 
 terranean chamber. This grand gallery, nowhere more 
 than six feet wide and contracted towards the top, was also 
 of polished marble-like stone throughont. At the top of 
 the slippery plane they found another narrow passage, very 
 like the one which had admitted them into the grand gal- 
 lery, and creeping through this they found themselves at 
 once in the grand chamber which forms the conclusion of 
 the Great Pyramid's interior. This apartment is thirty- 
 four feet long, seventeen broad and nineteen high, and is of 
 polished red granite, floor, walls and ceiling, in squared 
 blocks so skillfully put together that the seams are barely 
 discernible. 
 
 But where was the treasure ? Al Mamoon was amazed. 
 Not a single dirham was there anywhere, only an empty 
 stone chest wWiout a lid. 
 
 Ages went by, and finally Europeans began to visit the 
 pyramids and to w'ondcr what could have been the purpose 
 of that stone chest. Gradually the notion grew that it 
 might have been a sarcophagus, that it was a sarcophagus, 
 then that it was intended for the Pharaoh of Red Sea flime, 
 who had not the opportunity of being deposited in his own 
 tomb. But it came to light finally that the pyramid was 
 not only built, but had been sealed up long before even the 
 birth of Pharaoh. Then some one wrote that it was King 
 Cheops, or Chemmis or Shufo, who w'as buried there, but 
 his body was removed. But this theory also falling to the 
 ground, the world settled down into the belief that some- 
 body must have been buried there. Strange to say, how- 
 ever, in 1837 Colonel Vyse discovered " air channels " 
 leading through the solid masonry to the outside air, evi- 
 dently intending that it should be ventilated in the most 
 admirable manner. There is also another unfinished cham- 
 ber, also ventilated in the same Avay, except that there was 
 
 G
 
 168 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 a small crust of stone to be broken through to open them — 
 Dr. Grant, the mission physician in Cairo, making the dis- 
 covery only two years ago. 
 
 Finally the Englishman Taylor came out with his theory, 
 " that the coffer in the King's chamber was intended to be 
 a standard measure of capacity and weight for all nations, 
 and that certain nations did originally receive their weights 
 and measures from thence." For instance, the British 
 farmer measures his Avheat in quarters, but quarters of 
 what ? He does not know ; he simply calls it a quarter. 
 So, in pity for his ignorance, Taylor comes to his help and 
 tells him it is quarters of the contents of the stone coffer in 
 the King's chamber. Accordingly, Vyse and Smith made 
 the most accurate measurements of the cubical contents of 
 the coffer and found the agreement between the British 
 quarters and a fourth part of the contents of the coffer as 
 17,746: 17,801. 
 
 Great emphasis, too, is laid, as I said, on the dominance 
 of the number five. The casing stones were five feet thick, 
 there is a marked division into five of the ceiling of the 
 ante-chamber under which you must bow your head before 
 entering the last narrow passage into the King's chamber, 
 and the ceiling stones of this chamber are in five and a 
 half They are of all lengths, but exactly of the same 
 height, and five of them reach from the bottom to the top. 
 Yet for some mysterious reason the lower row extends just 
 five inches below the surface of the floor. The Avhole num- 
 ber of stones in the entire chamber is just one hundred. 
 Also the courses of masonry of which the pyramid is com- 
 posed are not of the same height, but whatever height or 
 thickness of stones any one course is begun with, it is kept 
 on at that thickness precisely, right through the whole ex- 
 tent of the course, although the area may there amount to
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 169 
 
 acres. And ou reaching in this manner the fiftieth course 
 of stones, you have the level of the floor of the King's 
 chamber, on which rests the stone coffer, a vessel with com- 
 mensurable capacity proportions between its interior and 
 exterior, and between the walls and floor in a room with 
 five courses, composed of one hundred stones, and with a 
 capacity proportion of fifty to the fifth of these courges. Bays 
 Smith, " the dullest person in existence could hardly fail to 
 see that this chamber should have been called the chamber 
 of the standard of fifty." So let me whisper that he who 
 does not see it in this light lays himself liable to an impu- 
 tation. 
 
 This chamber furthermore is claimed to be the most 
 suitable place in the known world for making those expe- 
 riments which determine the density of the earth — one of 
 the most puzzling of astronomical problems. Air tight 
 rooms closed in with glass have been used in England 
 where the experimenter had to remain outside. In Pulkova, 
 near St. Petersburg, these experiments are performed in 
 subterranean chambers, and in Paris the most perfect pen- 
 dulum in the world is kept going in a subterranean cham- 
 ber known as " the caves," ninety-five feet below the sur- 
 face, in order to secure such a uniformity of temperature 
 as shall prevent any variation in the apparatus. But still 
 perfection has never yet been reached. It would be, how- 
 ever. Smith affirms, if scientists would only come to the 
 great meteorological center of the Avorld — the King's 
 Chamber of the Great Pyramid, which is everywhere 
 shielded from summer's heat and winter's cold by one 
 hundred and eighty feet of solid masonry ! He declares 
 there never has been, and most probably never will be, a 
 scientific observing room erected by any nation to be at all 
 compared in its very leading requisite with this remarkable 
 chamber.
 
 170 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 But to go back to the deacending passage. The entrance 
 to this was, of course, found and opened after Al Mamoon 
 had forced his way into it within the pyramid. It is 
 twenty-four feet to the west of the center of the northern 
 face, and is forty-nine feet above the level of the base. 
 The passage is of the same dimensions with the narrow as- 
 cending one, and also descends at the angle of twenty-six 
 degrees. It extends to the center of the pyramid, and is, 
 of course, almost four hundred feet long — the chamber into 
 which it leads being situated in the solid rock one hundred 
 feet beloio the line of the jiyramid's base. Just before enter- 
 ing this subterranean chamber you j^ass under the mouth 
 of the dark well which I mentioned as leading down 
 from the northern extremity of the grand gallery. 
 
 From the bottom of this descending passage the light of 
 day shining in at the entrance is just as if you saw a star 
 through a long telescope ; and this, aside, of course from 
 furnishing an entrance, is supposed to be the design of this 
 passage — to furnish a telescope tvith a fixed degree of eleva- 
 tion, bearing upon any star which should be, at the time of 
 the pyramid's erection, three degrees twenty-four minutes 
 from the Polar point. Sir John Herschel declared that 
 within the last five thousand years only one notable star 
 had been at the required distance, namely, a (alpha) of the 
 constellation Draconis ; and that it was in such a position 
 2170 B. C. Hence the deduction from this and other as- 
 tronomical data and arguments too complicated to be in- 
 troduced here, that the pyramid was built at this date — 
 2170 B. C, and is therefore four thousand and forty-six 
 years old. 
 
 Pyramid theorists also find great resemblance between 
 the Ark and the Tabernacle of the wilderness and the 
 Pyramid and its stone coffer. The cubical contents of the
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY filFFEN. 171 
 
 Ark, Smyth affirms, to be almost identically those of the 
 coffer as near as the measure of the former can be approx- 
 imated. It was also a lidless box of the same shape as the 
 coffer. Great prominence was also given in the taberna- 
 cle to weights and measures, and everywhere it was the 
 sacred cubit of twenty-five inches. He also remarks that 
 the Pentateuch contains five books, that Pentecost occurs 
 fifty days after the Passover, and that the year of Jubilee 
 was every fiftieth one. The number five, says Sir Gard- 
 ner Wilkinson, " was an abomination to the ancient Egyp- 
 tians," and is " the evil number " of the modern ones, and 
 is represented by a cypher. Particularly galling, there- 
 fore, it must have been to the Egyptians when they saw 
 the Israelites go up out of Egypt in ranks of five, for so 
 Smyth says the word "harnessed " should be translated. 
 
 But last of all the passages, gallery and chambers of the 
 Great Pyramid are held to symbolize tlie Christian religion. 
 The descending passage is a type of human depravity, ever 
 gravitating toward that final abode at the extremity of the 
 descent. But from this ruined condition, this facilis de- 
 scensus Averni there was one Exodus, but only for a few, 
 typified by the ascending passage showing Hebraism end- 
 ing its original prophetic destination — Christianity. But 
 another escape is possible before reaching that fearful 
 abyss, namely, by " the straight and narrow way," typi- 
 fied by the dark and narrow well leading from the lower 
 part of the "descensus" into the grand gallery. Giving 
 an inch for a year, and measuring backwards from the 
 north beginning of the gallery, the exodus is found either 
 at 1483 or 1542 B. C, and the Dispersion at 2528 B. C, 
 up at the beginning of the entrance passage. Then going 
 back to the northern entrance of the grand gallery, typi- 
 cal of the birth of Christ, thirty-three inches bring you
 
 172 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 opposite the mouth of the well, the type of his death and 
 resurrection. 
 
 Some time after all these measures and conjectures were 
 published, Smyth was reminded that he and Herschel had 
 fixed the date of the building, or completion at 2170 B. 
 C, that he claimed for the builder divine inspiration, that 
 if that were the case the builder surely knew and would 
 have marked the years which would elapse from the date 
 of the Pyramid until the birth of Christ. And he was 
 asked to find some mark of this fact in the passages lead- 
 ing backward from the northern entrance of the grand 
 gallery. If the completion of the building really occurred 
 in 2170 B. C, this date would fall three or four hundred 
 inches only from the mouth of the entrance. Smyth was 
 then — 1873 — in Scotland, and accordingly he wrote to Dr. 
 Grant and Wymar Dixon to make a careful examination. 
 They did so and at the very spot found a very peculiar 
 line ruled into the stone on each side of the passage. They 
 made the examination without knowing for what purpose 
 it Avas intended, only they were desired to be very exact. 
 Herewith the cavilers expressed themselves entirely satis- 
 fied, and the Astronomer Royal, of Scotland, went on his 
 way rejoicing. 
 
 The entrance to the pyramid is some distance from the 
 outside or northern face. All the stones around it are of 
 immense size, and above it they are put in in the form of 
 an arch. It is rather a forbidding prospect to go creeping 
 down that narrow passage, so steep that you have the great- 
 est difficulty to keep from sliding down in a manner nei- 
 ther dignified nor comfortable. 
 
 The grand gallery was a wild, beautiful sight, when 
 illuminated by the magnesium wire, only it was such a diffi- 
 cult matter to find a sure enough footing to enable you to
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 173 
 
 look at it in any comfort. lu the king's chamber the 
 Arabs struck the coffer with their hands and it rang like 
 the finest bell metal. Then one of them shouted. And, 
 oh, such a wonderful echo ! There was such an amazing 
 volume of sound, and it seemed to roll and roll and roll, 
 winding upward in constantly decreasing spiral curves 
 until we could imagine it was issuing from the very apex 
 of the pyramid. The ventilating passages, however, are 
 choked up or stopped up by the Arabs, and we did not 
 care to remain very long in Smyth's royal apartment. 
 There w'ere none of us frightened, as we had a good sup- 
 ply of candles, but none of us felt any regret when we 
 looked up the long " telescoj^e " on our return and saw 
 the star-like glimmer of the day." 
 
 Of all sciences Mrs. Giffen most loved mathematics and 
 was never more happy than when engaged in the solution 
 of some difficult problem. It is said that " when a little 
 girl she was known to work three days on one sum in 
 addition in Davies' Algebra, rather than pass it over or to 
 take the say of the teacher, without a perfect understand- 
 ing of why it was so."
 
 174 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 ROME — COLISEUM — VATICAN — ST. PETER's. 
 
 " Most travelers I think indulge in a great deal of enthu- 
 siasm over their first day in Rome, not perhaps because 
 they really /ee/ a great deal but because they thought they 
 would when they left home, and because they knew their 
 friends expect at least a small outburst from them. They 
 usually jum]) up early the first morning, write a letter 
 home and date it from "the Eternal City," the contents 
 consisting largely of very sage reflections on " seven hilled 
 Rome," — " Niobe of nations," etc., etc. But Ave were not 
 just travelers — with one exeejDtion — we were on our way to 
 a new and trving life, and we thought much more fre- 
 quently of what awaited us there than of the sights and scenes 
 through which wc were passing. When you travel as far 
 as Egypt I think most persons become conscious of consid- 
 erable indifference to even " the Avonders of the world." 
 There is so much to disgust one, particularly an American. 
 His credulity is appealed to so incessantly that he falls 
 into a kind of mental desperation and feels like affirming 
 that he doesn't believe anything. Even in Westminster 
 Abbey at the very outset of our sight-seeing our ap- 
 preciation of the grand old building and its innumera- 
 ble treasures of art was very considerably lessened by the 
 absolute reverence which the keepers and guides manifested 
 for the mere relics of kings and queens who had only 
 cursed the Avorld while they Avere alive. 
 
 If you could see all the famous places in peace and quiet 
 and examine them at your leisure, the effect Avould be dif- 
 ferent ; but to one just passing through it seems that Eu- 
 rope literally lives upon the credulity of travelers. There 
 
 1
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 175 
 
 is ahvays somebody at your elbow to tell you in the most 
 triumphant tones that you arc just on the very spot where 
 some wonderful saint performed some most wonderful 
 miracle, and that he only asks you a franc for the valuable 
 information. It would undoubtedly have left a gaji in 
 your life not to have heard of it and you give him the 
 franc to get rid of him. By the time you reach Rome you 
 are so surfeited with priests and nuns, with endless jiicturcs 
 of the Virgin JNIary, with St. Peter's keys and mitre that 
 you almost forget, or wish to forget, that the one loas our 
 Lord's mother, or that the other was a great apostle and 
 martyr, and that both are now before the "great white 
 throne." 
 
 I think there was but one place among the many Avhich 
 we saw in Rome that we really enjoyed in itself This was 
 the Coliseum, of which everybody has read and heard so 
 much. But for those who forget figures and dimensions, I 
 may say it was an oval structure consisting of three stories 
 of arches and each story composed of eighty arches. Those 
 of the first tier are marked with Roman numbers, as they 
 formed so many entrances, through which by internal stair- 
 cases the upper stories were reached. These are on the 
 plan of open galleries, each succeeding one receding like 
 the seats in a circus. The first one is necessarily quite 
 wide, affording space for a very wide hall in rear of the 
 gallery and stair-cases, the second tier of arches forming 
 its windows. In this first gallery was the Podmm, the place 
 occupied by the Emperors, their families, the magistrates, 
 the senators, priests and vestals. On the second floor is 
 another gallery and a narrow hall, and on the third floor 
 merely a gallery. 
 
 It is impossible to conceive anything better adapted to 
 the purpose for which it was designed than this great
 
 176 LIFE AND LETTERS OP 
 
 structure. The eighty entrances, the absence of a roof, and 
 the great wide halls must have made it a delightful place of 
 resort for those who found their highest enjoyment in wit- 
 nessing blood and slaughter. It is about five hundred and 
 eighty-five yards in circumference, and perhaps fifty-five 
 in height, and was capable of seating one hundred thousand 
 persons. It was built by the Emperor Vespasian on the 
 ground formerly occupied by the stagnum of the garden 
 of Nero, and served for the purpose of gladiatorial com- 
 bats until the year 523. During the six hundred succeed- 
 ing years it was used as a stronghold by some noble fami- 
 lies, and in 1332 a magnificent tournament was given 
 there. 
 
 Pius VII., Leo X., Gregory XVI., and finally Pius IX. 
 all made important repairs and restorations. The latter 
 has restored the upper tier for about one third of the cir- 
 cumference to its primitive condition, so that one may now 
 form a tolerably accurate idea of the original, while " the 
 magnificence of the ruin " is but the more enhanced. Our 
 one regret was that we could not see it by moonlight, 
 though if we had I think our thoughts would not have 
 glided into that old worn channel which most travelers fall 
 into, a practical lament over " the ruins of time." 
 
 To enjoy " the imposing spectacle which this monument 
 presents," as the guide books would say, we ascended the 
 highest part, and sat down on the stones where so many 
 old Romans had been before us. Perhaps they were poor 
 plebeians, crowded up to the higher seats by the haughty 
 patricians below, or perhaps they were gay boys and girls 
 who enjoyed getting up above their patres familias, and 
 who gave few thoughts to the martyrs on the sands below. 
 The same bright sun looked down upon us as upon them, 
 but how different was all else. The whole arena is strewn
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 177 
 
 with great broken columns, appropriate emblems of the 
 power which once was so triumphant here, the lovely little 
 flowers were springing everywhere in the crevices which 
 once were worn and dry from the trampling of a thousand 
 feet. Busy workmen were cai-efully excavating the cells 
 and dens in which lions and tigers were pampered to ren- 
 der them fit combatants for him who dared to " believe in 
 Jesus." Behind us lay the great city, not as then pagan, 
 persecuting Rome, but Christian, persecuting Rome ; just 
 as merciless, just as blood-thirsty as when the perfect 
 Coliseum rang with the applause of a hundred thousand 
 hard-hearted })agans. 
 
 The abutment which receives the third tier of arches 
 projects about a yard, ami from the hall you can step 
 through the open arches upon this projection. If I remem- 
 ber correctly the wall was here at least five or six feet in 
 thickness, so you may form some idea of the thickness at 
 the base, and the immense amount of material required to 
 construct it. I walked out on the projection, gathered some 
 flowers, and intended to walk all round that side but the 
 gentlemen looked such strong objections that I gave it up 
 and contented myself with the view of " the Seven Hills " 
 which, from the height of the Coliseum, is one of the most 
 beautiful scenes in the world, at least as far as my experi- 
 ence goes. Just to the right is the Palatine Hill with the 
 ruins of " the Palace of the C»sars," where the great 
 Apostle stood in chains before cruel Nero. Persecutor and 
 persecuted, both now are dust, as to the mortal part ; the 
 gilded palace too has crumbled away, and the saints which 
 were " of Caesar's household " all are gone. Most of them 
 no doubt passed away from earth by violent hands. But 
 what a monument is this Coliseum of them "of whom the 
 the world was not worthy! " May it stand just as it does
 
 178 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 to-day, a magnificent ruin to the end of time! a mementor 
 of the broken power which poured out on these white 
 sands the blood of thousands of mart)a-s. May it stand as 
 it does now a silent witness of the advancement of that 
 kingdom which Avill (jne day fill the whole earth, which is 
 stronger than Roman legions and mightier than many 
 Csesars. 
 
 There is a quiet and silence about the ])lace not found 
 in other quarters of Rome. After paying the entrance fee 
 no one disturbed us and we walked leisurely around enjoy- 
 ing our oAvn reflections. As we passed around one of the 
 long halls, and with our hearts touched and softened at 
 thought of the agony on which those dumb walls had so 
 often looked down, I said to INIr. G. : " How amazing that 
 thousands of people once thronged these great galleries to 
 make a pastime of death ! " And he answered softly : 
 " They were pagans. ' By grace you are what you are ! ' " 
 
 In Byron's " Manfred " there occurs a beautiful descrip- 
 tion of the Coliseum by moonlight. There is now in pos- 
 session of Dr. Phillips a copy of this poem, and on the 
 margin opposite this description, an entry in the handwrit- 
 ing of Mrs. Giffen, in these words: "I would give twenty 
 of the best years of my life to stand where he stood on 
 that night." This sentence Avas penned twelve years before 
 this letter was written. Such a change does the grace of 
 God work in the heart. 
 
 The lines which called forth this longing desire to view 
 this beautiful ruin were these : 
 
 " Upon such a night 
 I stood within the Coliseum's wall, 
 Midst the chief relics of almighty Rome : 
 The trees which grew along its Itroken arciies 
 AVaved dark in the blue midnight, and the star 
 Shone through the rents of ruin ; from afar 
 
 I
 
 Mrs. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 179 
 
 The watch-dog bayed beyond the Tiber ; and 
 More near from out the Csesar's palace came 
 The owl's long cry, and interruptedly 
 Of distant sentinels the fitful song 
 Begun and died upon the gentle wind." 
 
 Ill regard to her visit to the Vatican and St. Peter she 
 says : 
 
 " Sometimes when I have leisure to think of something 
 else than my immediate surroundings I recall the time 
 when I used to " devour " books of travel and provoke a 
 smile from incredulous friends by affirming that I intended 
 some day to stand "beneath the dome of St. Peter's." 
 But when we drew aside the massive curtain which shuts 
 out the profane light of day from Rome's most venerated 
 Basilica, how the romance had fled ! It was not the old dream 
 nor I the same person. I was in " Sunny Italy," I knew, 
 but it was not now the ultimatum of my ambition. The 
 " land of the caliphs " and the sons of the desert were of 
 far more interest, and I walked down that magnificent 
 Nave with feelings as widely different from what I had 
 dreamed I would experience, as was the means which 
 gratified my school-girl wish from my original expecta- 
 tions. 
 
 The Vatican, you know, was the palace of Charlemagne 
 when he was crowned by Leo, but it has been indefinitely 
 adorned and extended by the Popes who have resided in 
 it. It is of three stories, and contains a perfect labyrinth 
 of halls, galleries, chapels, corridors, libraries, museums, 
 and court-yards. Of course we ascended one of the eight 
 trrand stair-cases — there are two hundred inferior ones — 
 but I have forgotten the length of it. I think, however, 
 it cannot be under three hundred feet. It is a magnificent 
 ascending marble hall, richly ornamented like every other
 
 180 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 part of these great buildings, but the only statue I remeniber 
 is an equestrian figure of " Saul the Persecutor" when "sud- 
 denly there shined round about him a light from heaven." 
 The splendid horse is rearing in silent terror, but it is only 
 amazement which speaks in the rider's face. He has not 
 yet "fallen to the ground." He still "breathes out 
 threatenings and slaughter." It is the lion heart still un- 
 subdued, the eagle eye gazing, undimmed as yet, into the 
 very rays of the streaming light. But the days of his re- 
 bellion are numbered. After this day he will persecute no 
 more, and " Saul the Jew " will be henceforth " Paul the 
 Apostle." It Avas the only thing about St. Peter's which 
 seemed pure and true and which it seems pleasant to re- 
 member. 
 
 At the head of the stair-case we found some galleries 
 containing modern paintings, but I could detect little ex- 
 cellence except in richness of coloring. Popes and Cardi- 
 nals in scarlet robes figuring largely iu all of them. We 
 passed on to the Sistine Chapel with every expectation of 
 being overwhelmed Avith the world's masterpiece of paint- 
 ing—Michael Angelo's " Last judgment." It is iu fresco 
 and covers one end of the hall, but — sorry I am to confess 
 it — we could not detect the " magnificence " of the paint- 
 ing. Like everything else, it is distinctively a Catholic 
 picture, and is badly injured by damp and candle smoke. 
 Afterwards we went through hall after hall with their 
 walls covered with the works of " the great masters " but 
 without time to study them. Inexperienced eyes I think 
 will always come away disappointed. 
 
 The Nave is vaulted and richly decorated with gilding. 
 The pavement is of various marbles, inlaid in beautiful 
 mosaic designs, and indeed such a wealth of marble can 
 surely not exist anywhere else in the world. Many of the
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 181 
 
 statues of popes and saints were literally enveloped in mar- 
 ble lace. Sucli grace in the drapery and such exquisite 
 carving I could not have believed possible. " But the 
 pity of it" — all thrown away on mitred j)opes! 
 
 On the left of the Nave were many confessionals— little 
 rooms scattered up and down the long aisle, with a priest 
 in each and the language he spoke printed above the door, 
 but there was but one penitent in them all. It was a 
 woman, and we waited to see her face when she came out. 
 She had soft, dreamy eyes and a sweet, sad face ; and as 
 she passed out Ave wondered what secret she had poured 
 into the ear of that hardened-looking priest. 
 
 But I am sure you want to know how we were impressed 
 by " the grand whole." Well, I must admit it again that 
 we were grievously disappointed. And I think this is the 
 experience of everyone who sees St. Peter's only once. It 
 is like " the great masters " — must be studied. There is 
 such a vast amount of statuary and ornament of every 
 kind, such vast rows of arches, vaults and columns that 
 one loses all idea of proportion, and really forgets that it 
 is a large building. It is said to be so perfect in its pro- 
 portions that one feature does not call attention to another 
 by any contrast, and it is not until one has seen it several 
 times that the impression of its great size begins to be 
 formed in the mind. Unfortunately we could not get ac- 
 cess to the dome, and were compelled to be content with 
 almost dislocating our necks to look up its great height. 
 
 Now shall I make a confession. You will smile and 
 others will perhaps feel inclined to criticise my taste, but 
 I must say that nowhere in Europe did I see any building 
 which pleased me so much as the exterior of the Capitol 
 at Washington. I think I will never forget that beautiful 
 facade literally glittering in the evening sunlight as you
 
 182 
 
 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 stopped to let me take a last look at it. Nothing I saw in 
 London and Paris, nothing in the bewildering Palace Gar- 
 dens in Florence, nothing even in Eonie can at all com- 
 pare with the native magnificence of our Capitol grounds. 
 I think of the Capitol, and Notre Dame seems like some 
 great gloomy old prison. The Florentine palaces exter- 
 nally, might pass for an old fortress with its barracks, and 
 when I come to the Grand Piazza of St. Peter's with its 
 magnificent colonnade, how tame and spiritless it seems 
 compared with the grass and the trees, the great winding 
 walks and carriage drives of our Republican grounds." 
 
 After Mrs. Giffen had graduated, the chiefest desire of 
 her heart was to visit Europe. The glowing descriptions 
 of the Avonders of the old world, with which the books of 
 travel were filled, had excited in her an irrepressible de- 
 sire to see for herself these beauties of nature and mira- 
 cles of art, which had so captivated other beholders. To 
 stand beneath the dome of St. Peter's, on " the banks of 
 the yellow Tiber," the " Coliseum's ruined Avail ;" to float 
 some calm, starry night on the beautiful bay of Naples ; to 
 see the blue skies of " sunny Italy ;" to be privi- 
 leged to commune face to face Avith the great crea- 
 tions of " the old masters " in painting and sculpture — the 
 " Last Supper " of Michael Angelo, the " Apollo Belvi- 
 dere " — to gratify this all-pervading desire Avas the ulti- 
 matum of her earthly hopes. But now Avhen she does 
 stand in the presence of these mighty creations of art and 
 genius, Avhat a change has " come over the spirit of her 
 dream." The Coliseum is the same magnificent ruin, 
 and St. Peter's the same bcAvildering pile of marble — Avhy 
 does she now look upon them Avith different eyes ? The actu- 
 ating motive of her life is not the same. The dazzling 
 dream of her girlhood has \^auished, and she noAv stood
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 183 
 
 the strong, self-reliant wonjan, purified and emancipated 
 by the almighty grace of God, " a neio creature," whose 
 one purpose and inspiration was to see, not Rome, but that 
 " city whose foundations are eternal and whose builder and 
 maker is God " to stand, not upon " the seven hills of 
 Rome," but upon "the everlasting hills;" not upon the 
 banks of the Tiber, but upon the shores of " the river of 
 life;" to see, not St. Peter's — the temple of God "made 
 Avith hands," but to wonder and worship in that " temple 
 not made with hands, eternal in the heavens." 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 MRS. GIFFEN's marriage. 
 
 In a little more than a year after Mrs. Giffen's arrival in 
 Egypt she was united in marriage to Rev. John Giffen, of 
 the same mission, and one of her fellow-travelers on the 
 voyage out from America. He was born near St. Clairs- 
 ville, Ohio, where his family now reside, and entered the 
 mission at the same time that Mrs. Giifen did. But the 
 particulars in regard to this most interesting event are best 
 given in her own words. She says in a letter to Dr. Bon- 
 ner : " Do you remember that after you had taken leave 
 of me on board the Cuba the day we sailed from New York 
 you met Mr. Giffen just outside the cabin door, and that 
 you put me in his special care? AVell, he most faithfully 
 fulfilled the promise he made you, of performing a liroth- 
 er's part to me, not only on the long journey, but during 
 all our stay here. You put me into his care as a sister,
 
 184 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 but now, as you will have heard, I have given myself into 
 his care in another relation. My name is changed some- 
 what, but I am " M. E. G." still — your missionary just all 
 the same. My work may not be altogether in the same 
 shape, more of it may be in the house, among the mothers, 
 but it will be quite as effective so, and more encouraging. 
 Be that as it may, however, you will not find that a change 
 of name has changed anything else. I am yours just as 
 before and hope to be able to communicate with you just 
 as often as before. 
 
 We were married at Dr. Lansing's on the 5th of June, 
 and though neither of us had any claim of relationship, 
 we were made to feel just as pleasant, just as much at home 
 as if our wedding guests had assembled in a certain parlor 
 in Due AVest. The Cousul-General, Hon. Mr. Farman. 
 was present, with the Vice Consul, Mr. Hay and family, 
 Judge and Mrs. Batchelor, of the Internal Court, Mr. Rem- 
 ington, of New York, and all the missionaries now in the 
 field, except Mr. Ewing, who was detained by illness in 
 his fjimily. You know that Mrs. Lansing's early mission- 
 ary letters are the first things I ever remember to have 
 read, and that they had quite an influence in tui-ning my 
 thoughts and inclinations towards mission life. And the 
 last time she was in America she made an appeal to the 
 theological students of Xenia which had more weight with 
 Mr. Giffen than anything else of the kind brought to bear 
 on his mind in deciding the question of his coming to 
 Egypt. It was, therefore, a very pleasant coincidence that 
 we were married in her house. Her marriage with Dr. 
 Lansing was the only precedent one we had in the mission, 
 and Dr. L. pronounced our ceremony." 
 
 This union proved to both " a marriage made in heaven." 
 There entered into it none of the selfish and mercenary
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 185 
 
 motives which too often lead to marriage and misery. Those 
 feelings which God and nature has ordained shall consti- 
 tute the true basis of marriage, alone operated in this case. 
 With her hand she gave her heart — not partially but 
 wholly. A more loyal, faithful, loving wife never lived. 
 All the affections of her nature, and they were intense and 
 powerful, went out to her husband and children. She lit- 
 erally lived in and for those whom she loved. From the 
 hour of her marriage self had few of her thoughts. 
 
 In a letter to her mother she says : " I have as good and 
 kind a husband as ever blessed any woman. Nothing that 
 thoughtful love and care can bring to me will ever be 
 wanting. I think my sleepless nights, and the nervous 
 anxiety which has almost killed me the last months, are 
 things which will never come back to me. Mr. Giffen is a 
 very pious man, one whom I can trust to the last degree — 
 deeply affectionate, and a man to command and retain re- 
 gard. We are as happy as we can be. The world wears 
 a different aspect from what it did, before we knew that 
 each cared for the other. So do not be troubled about me 
 any more. O ! that God would make me worthy of the 
 blessing He is giving me, and that it may be the better for 
 the world that we have lived together in it. I hope we 
 will be as useful as we are happy, for I am sure our facili- 
 ties for usefulness are greatly increased." 
 
 At first the Church feared that Mrs. Giffen 's usefulness 
 and efficiency as a missionary would be impaired by her 
 marriage, but this fear proved groundless. In this new re- 
 lation her zeal suffered no abatement, and in earnest labors 
 to prepare herself for the full work of a missionary, her 
 hand slacked not. Just the reverse proved true. 
 
 In the east there are more, and effectual doors of use- 
 fulness opened to the married than the unmarried mission-
 
 186 LIFE AND LETTERS OP 
 
 aiy, so that she truly says " our facilities for usefulness are 
 greatly increased." Of this period of her life Dr. Hogg 
 writes : " Not only did she forget herself in the ardor of 
 her zeal, but sometimes she seemed to forget those who 
 were dearer to her than self. Loving her children with a 
 doting affection, yet the cases were very rare — unless com- 
 pelled to leave Asyoot — in which she allowed the sickness 
 of a child to interfere with her daily work." 
 
 Perhaps in J:Ome there might have been the sentiment 
 that it ^vould be romantic to toil on and alone to the end 
 of life as " Miss Galloway." But in that dark and distant 
 land, there is little of romance and poetic sentiment in the 
 liie a lonely and cheerless woman. 
 
 After their marriage Mr. Giffen was sent to Alexandria. 
 Of the first night they spent in that city she says : " It 
 was with very solemn feelings that we knelt for evening 
 prayers the first time here. We felt that our coming had 
 not been of our own seeking, that we were in effect charged 
 with the responsibility of oi^ening almost a new mission in 
 this great wicked city. Had Jesus come in with us, and 
 would he make his abode with us? Or had we left him 
 Avithout still knocking at the door ? How fearfully empty 
 the large bare rooms seemed with the possibility that He 
 might not be in them ! and how beautifully furnished, how 
 greatly adorned with the hope that he not only was in them 
 Avith us, but that he himself had brought us and Avould in 
 his own good time " fill this house Avith his glory."
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 187 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 VISIT TO A TURKISH HAREM — BANNER GIRL. 
 
 " Just at the end of our terrace we can look down into 
 a beautiful garden owned by a Turkish Bey. There is a 
 very large, handsome dwelling back in the grounds, and 
 near the gate a large building containing a large parlor 
 furnished in Frank style, a ball and billiard room. We 
 had often looked in and wished we could see the peoi)le 
 who lived inside, but the gate was always sa carefully 
 guarded by jet black harem servants that it always seemed 
 rather a forbidding prospect. However, we ventured to 
 send our Moslem gardener to inquire if a visit would be 
 acceptable. A very polite message was returned and we 
 went over. The servants at the gate " rose up " to meet 
 us just as the Bible represents inferiors as doing to those 
 they wished to honor, and the brother of the Bey passed 
 us in the grounds and very politely invited us to enter. 
 The women were sitting in a beautiful front gallery which 
 is entirely closed in with glass, some of it richly " stained." 
 They seated us and then gave us a regular scanning. I 
 had a thin blue veil on, and the woman who seemed freest 
 to talk told me to put up my veil. I hesitated and she in- 
 sisted very positively, using the word " Iftahee " which 
 means to open like a door. They then inquired all 
 about us, where we all lived, what we did, what we came 
 here for, if we had no friends who loved us at home, and 
 finally, of course, if we were married. But before anyone 
 could answer they said they had seen me in the street with 
 a Chowagah. Who was he ? Miss J. told her and then 
 she said, " Well, I like him, and I am coming to live with 
 you." They were greatly surprised that none of the
 
 188 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 other four were married and inquired very earnestly if 
 they didn't want to be. The spokesman of the party an- 
 swered for herself that she didn't, but told them to inquire 
 of the others themselves. Tliey began and put the ques- 
 tion very nicely to each one, " If the man was very nice, if 
 everything was nice wouldn't they take him ? " To their 
 amusement and gratification one of the ladies said " Yom- 
 kin" — perhaps — and they dropped the subject, feeling that 
 she was a sensible woman, whom hard fate had condemned 
 to a miserable existence. They brought us sherbet on a 
 very handsome silver waiter, and then shoAved us through 
 the house. The woman who talked was a widow. The 
 wife of the Bey was dressed in dark print, made Avith a 
 basque and very long trail and she wore beautiful white 
 satiu, high-heeled French slippers over red and white 
 striped stockings. The wife of the Bey's brother came 
 next in dignity. She wore a trail, too, but shorter than 
 the other. In fact you could tell the position in the house 
 by the length of the trail. There were a good many in- 
 ferior wives who did not sit with the others, but either stood 
 or sat humbly on the carpet. The house was on the Turk- 
 ish style, all the doors being furnished with heavy damask 
 curtains. After we had passed through several rooms 
 back from the front, one of the women told us we were 
 then in the harem. 
 
 In the garden they talked more freely than in the house, 
 perhaps because we had them singly, said they were pris- 
 oners in the house, could not get out because the Bey's 
 mother had died a year before, that they could not read or 
 write, and had nothing to amuse themselves with. The 
 brother's wife said she was married in Stamboul (Constan- 
 tinople) sixteen years ago, and she had never been back, 
 had never heard a word from her mother, and did not know if
 
 MRS. MAKY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 189 
 
 she were dead or alive. We were walking, when she said 
 this, through the most beautiful grounds, under immensely 
 long grape arbors just laden with great luscious clusters 
 that almost make one think of " the grapes of Eschol." 
 There was their magnificent house behind us which Avould 
 have seemed a palace to us, and there were any number of 
 slaves to perform every service, and yet how discontented 
 and unhappy they seemed, 'how they longed to get out into 
 the world as we did ! They seemed wholly unable to un- 
 derstand how it could be that we heard from our mothers 
 every week. AVe passed through a delightful little grotto 
 at length and came out upon a little lake. Here they 
 stopped us, gave us chairs, and had coffee brought. After 
 taking this we went up an artificial hill in the corner of 
 the garden and from the top of which the wall was not 
 more than a yard high. You could look down perhaps 
 twenty feet into a little narrow street through which we 
 always pass on our way to the sea, and now we knew how 
 it was that they knew me and had seen my Chowagah. It 
 is from that hill that they see the world, and we imagined 
 we could rather understand their feelings when they stood 
 up there and looked down at us going to the sea with the 
 gentlemen. 
 
 When we came down they took us into the parlor and 
 opened a very nice piano. I played some for them, and 
 sang to my own accompaniment, which seemed to interest 
 them immensely. They brought a very fine rose while I 
 was playing and stuck it in the candle-holder — a fixture of 
 all European pianos — right before me in special compli- 
 ment. I think they have a Greek governess for the chil- 
 dren of the establishment, but we did not feel free to ask 
 how many of these there were or how many wives there 
 were.
 
 190 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 On the whole we quite enjoyed the adventure, and I 
 have no doubt it gave a great deal of pleasure to the poor 
 "prisoners," as they called themselves. Some evening 
 when we have a little leisure we propose calling again, 
 taking some music with us, and finding out a little more of 
 our Turkish neighbors. 
 
 It Avill be remembered that, at the instance of Mrs. Gif- 
 fen, the various Sabbath-schools of the church forwarded 
 contributions for the support of some needy and deserving 
 girl, to be called the "Banner Girl." In regard to this 
 girl she writes : 
 
 " I have delayed writing you in reference to the Banner 
 Girl, until I could give you definite information about 
 her. The little girl's name is Saloma. She is about eight 
 or nine years old. Her father is a poor weaver in a town 
 eight miles from Sinnoris. He is the leading Protestant 
 in his village, and always walks to Sinnoris to church, be- 
 ing generally the first person there. Then he walks back 
 home, collects his friends and neighbors in the afternoon 
 and conducts a service himself. Mr. Harvey regards him 
 as a man of great worth, and one who has studied the 
 Bible Avith unusual care. As I have said, he is very poor, 
 poor even for Egypt. But he has agreed to pay fifteen 
 dollars per annum on his daughter's expenses. Mrs. Har- 
 vey says that is a great sum for him to get together, and she 
 thinks him deserving of nnich credit, since this child for 
 Avhom he is willing to make such sacrifices is " only a girl." 
 He says Saloma shall be educated " if he has to sell his 
 cow," and I guess few people in America know how great 
 that sacrifice would be. It is considered very important 
 that people here so learn the value of an education as to 
 be willing to exert themselves to obtain it, and also in the 
 case of girls it is regarded as almost indispensable that
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 191 
 
 mission beneficiaries belong to respectable families. Oth- 
 erwise it is very improbable that they will be taken in 
 marriage by the class of young men whom we wish to see 
 our girls marry. In that case, shtnikl they not be fitted 
 for successful teachers they become great burdens on the 
 mission. For this reason it is considered undesirable to 
 support and educate many orphans. It is true few 
 other girls can be so completely brought under the influ- 
 ence of missionaries, but as soon as they are through with 
 school they unhesitatingly claim that it is the duty of the 
 mission either to find them husbands or salaried positions. 
 This difficulty of course is obviated in the case of girls 
 who have parents living. Should Saloma prove a daugh- 
 ter worthy of her father and of the care she will receive 
 in the Cairo Boarding School she ought to be a great light 
 in her native village." 
 
 Again she writes : " Miss Johnson says that the ' Little 
 Banner Girl ' surprised them very much by the style in 
 which she returned to school — so neat and clean — and that 
 she was studying well and trying very hard to please 
 them. You may not understand just how much it means 
 for a girl to return to school dean. Neither parents nor 
 girls know much of that virtue before the latter are taught 
 it in school, and many of them regard it there simply be- 
 cause they know they must. When they go home some of 
 them relapse into former habits and when vacation is over 
 the teachers often find that no real progress has been 
 made. Clothes are soiled and out of order, bath tubs have 
 been ignored, and their heads — well, I will spare you that. 
 But Saloma showed that she had not thrown away her 
 four month's training, and Miss J. hopes she may con- 
 tinue to do as well as she has begun." 
 
 To a letter written by Rev. E. P. McClintock, asking
 
 192 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 for photographs of the Banner girl, Mrs. Giffen replied: 
 " Perhaps you know that it is a rare thing for Egyptians 
 to have pictures made, and the few girls in our schools 
 whose pictures have been sent to societies in America, have 
 been so spoiled by it, tliat we thought best not to give 
 Saloma ground for supposing she was a remarkable girl. 
 It would be hard for you to appreciate the difference be- 
 tween her home life, and her present life in school, al- 
 though we try so much to keep down expense. But when 
 a wretchedly poor girl is taken from her home and placed 
 in a school it is nearly impossible to keep her from think- 
 ing that it is because she is better than others. I have not 
 heard any special complaint of this kind in reference to 
 Saloma, but I do not think it would be wise to take her to 
 an artist. 
 
 We sometimes meet with great disappointments in the 
 people we assist here. All of us have girls or boys whom 
 we support ourselves in the schools, and after years of ef- 
 fort and expense they sometimes prove so proud, unthank- 
 ful and useless, that one has need of all his faith to begin 
 with another. It is esteemed a distinction to be aided by 
 us. But we are making strenuous efforts to convince ben- 
 eficiaries that such aid is charity. It would amuse you to 
 hear the tone in which they affirm that it is aid and not 
 charity." 
 
 Saloma's education is still incomplete, lacking one year. 
 She is now at home, in Rhoda, where she is going out, 
 twice a week, among the women reading to them in their 
 homes, from the Bible. She will probably become a use- 
 ful Bible woman. 
 
 " Last week a fellaha woman who is a church- member in 
 a town fifteen or twenty miles from here, brought her little 
 girl and begged to have her taken, although she could not
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 193 
 
 even furnish her clothes. She is well spoken of by the men 
 in the church there, and has to bear the reproach of hav- 
 ing five daughters and no sons. Her husband is a Copt, 
 and very \)ooy, and though he does not oppose her in wish- 
 ing to educate her daughters, yet he laughs at her and says; 
 " Do you think you can make boijn out of them ? " The 
 little girl seemed so bright and full of curiosity that we 
 thought we might make something out of her, so I have 
 taken her and will support her out of the tenth of my sal- 
 ary. She seems to think she has lighted upon Paradise, 
 and, as the native teacher said, is in a chronic state of won- 
 der ! Her name is Mayan — Mary ; and Miss McK. calls 
 her my little witch. 
 
 Some years ago a Scotch gentleman brought his little 
 invalid daughter to Egypt with the hojDC that a Nile voy- 
 age might prolong her life. But the little flower drooped 
 and died. Meantime the pai'ents became interested in the 
 mission, and as their little girl held some property in her 
 own right they made an arrangement to furnish forty 
 pounds — two hundred dollars — annually from her jiroperty 
 to educate orphan girls. The little girl of a very useful 
 " Bible Woman " and a blind girl are at present supported 
 by this fund, in the boarding school. And two weeks ago 
 Dr. Lansing received from this same gentleman a check 
 for one thousand two hundred and fifty dollars " to assist 
 in completing the girls' department in the new building." 
 It w as a most generous gift in a time of sore need, as w(n-k 
 would soon have had to stop for want of money to pay the 
 workmen."
 
 194 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 ASYOOT SCHOOLS — CO]MME>X'E]MENT. 
 
 " I wrote you sometime since of our then approaching ex- 
 amination. It took place as we expected, and in its results 
 has been all that we could have asked. When we began 
 Thursday morning there was no one there from the town, 
 but very soon they began dropping in. Last year our 
 Protestant business men and the teachers in the govern- 
 ment school had surprised everybody with their presence. 
 But this year we scarcely expected many ]Moslems, as some 
 of them had taken great offense at a speech made in the 
 church by one of the theologuos a month before. How- 
 ever before the morning was half over, one Moslem digni- 
 tary after another Avalked in. Sometimes they came in 
 little companies, and every time Dr. Hogg would get up 
 and salute them. It would never have done to let them 
 sit quietly down, no matter if it did cause confusion. And 
 then immediately the servants would come with cofllee and 
 sherbet. At every such batch of new comers — Moslem of- 
 ficials I mean — you should have seen the faces of Miss 
 McKown and Dr. and Mrs. Hogg. Fourteen j^ears ago 
 the former spent the heat of her first summer here teach- 
 ing some days hvo, and some days three little girls of five or 
 six years of age, and was hissed at, reviled and stoned in the 
 streets, so that she did not dare to go out without a man 
 to protect her. Now, there was a small sea of heads before 
 her, made up of Protestants, Copts and Moslems, men of 
 every degree and rank in the city — Copts who have hated 
 and opposed our work for years, and every Moslem official of 
 high position in the city except the Governor. These Moslems 
 make a most delightful audience. They sit quietly, listen
 
 MRS. MAKY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 195 
 
 patiently, ask questions and sometimes give the right an- 
 swer when a student is incorrect. Copts, on the contrary, 
 are most objectionable and undesirable. In their churches 
 they never sit down, nobody listens, every one talks and 
 every one tries to get a better place than his neighbor. 
 However we felt at first that everybody was ivelcome, and the 
 examination went well. Mrs. Hogg and I examined our 
 own classes. To me it was a great trial and the dread of 
 it for days before was most oppressive. No lady had ever 
 done it in Osiout until this year and then it was frightful 
 to think of talking Arabic to the assembled learning of the 
 whole city. None of us used a book in any department 
 except in English. I had not intended to do it, but I saw 
 that I must talk faster and louder than the men around 
 me if I held my ground and I did not open the book in 
 Arabic. 
 
 On Friday the crowd was immense, and it became im- 
 possible for one twentieth part to hear or even sec what 
 was going on. 
 
 But the great event of the day was the exhibiti(m of the 
 girl's work. Miss McKown had a quantity of black cloth 
 which was sent her for the school from Scotland. This 
 was tacked over the walls of our largest school room and 
 fancy work pinned on it. Then therp were little tables in 
 the corners and a long one in the centre of the room all 
 nicely filled with many kinds of work. In a side room 
 we put all the sewing consisting of bed covers, underwear 
 and many dresses. But we did not dare to let everybody 
 come up at once ; so before the invitation was given w'e 
 had guards stationed at the foot of the stairs and at every 
 door, and only admitted about thirty-five or foi'ty at a 
 time. It was almost amusing to see the amazement of the 
 Moslems that our girls could do so much nice work, and
 
 196 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 one of the dignitaries asked for a little fancy tobacco ponch 
 after it had been exhibited. We went round with them 
 and explaimed everything and when they were satisfied we 
 took them through the sleeping rooms. These were the 
 greatest wonder of all. The first-class boarders who pay 
 pretty well, sleep in the room with the Syrian teacher and 
 their beds have white covers on them. One of the men 
 stopped in this room and exclaimed, " Is everybody here, 
 in such a place as this, and our daughters staying at 
 home ! " The second-class girls sleep down stairs and have 
 only a comfort on their beds — all the bedsteads being a 
 gift from Miss Wolfe, of New York — but the rooms are as 
 clean and neat as the others and as such are wonders to 
 most Egyptians. From this part of the house the men 
 were passed out of the back door into the street and here 
 we had to have guards again to keep others from coming 
 in there. Sometimes the guards would be almost overpow- 
 ered and once they sent to say they were worn out contend- 
 ing against the people for after " the big men " had passed 
 up the people lost all sense of decency and every man 
 fought his way to the front and was literally pushed up the 
 stairs. Almost every one who wore a turban — rolls and 
 rolls of twisted cloth over a tarboosh — came into the first 
 room adjusting his head gear and panting as if he had been 
 running a foot race. 
 
 After candle lighting there was an exhibition of ora- 
 tions, dialogues, &c., and at the close two wealthy men pre- 
 sented prize books to boys and girls to the value of forty 
 dollars. The name of each student was called and he was 
 required to come forward and receive his book. The big 
 Moslems were all sitting, and the person who was distrib- 
 uting the books hindered them from seeing the girls as 
 they came for their books. So they took hold of the man
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 197 
 
 aud pulled him to the otlxer side, so that they could see, 
 and during the whole examination Dr. Hogg said that 
 there was quite a marked preference for hearing the girls. 
 
 At the close of the exhibition the French teacher in- 
 vited the audience to Avait in an open space outside to 
 witness the sending up of another balloon. While they 
 were making ready. Dr. Hogg stood with us, and, looking 
 out from his study window on the hundreds below — 
 amounting to a thousand or more — said that he had never 
 seen such an assembly in Osiout. Next year the gentle- 
 men say they will issue invitations to individuals by name 
 and not admit three times the number of people who can 
 sit down in the church. But oh, the change from the days 
 when the touch of a Protestant was contamination ! Then 
 it was " the Nicodemuses " who came to the mission, and 
 now, as Arabs say, "all the world" came to see our 
 schools. 
 
 Dr. Hogg thinks the girls quite enjoyed the freedom 
 and novelty of the thing, for indeed it was a most unheard 
 of performance in this part of the world, and I doubt ex- 
 ceedingly if any other hundred " college boys" ever did 
 gaze at a set of school girls with so much surprise and sat- 
 isfaction before. Once when I was traveling, a physician 
 told me a story of a boy who had been shut up until he was 
 seventeen years old by a misanthropical father to save him 
 from the snare in which he had been caught and ruined. 
 At seventeen, however, the boy escaped his prison bounds, 
 and innocently encountered a pretty school girl. He ran 
 immediately to his father, described the wonderful sight 
 in extravagant terms and demanded what it could be. In 
 trreat alarm his flither informed him that it was a bird. 
 Whereupon the boy clapped his hands aud cried with 
 great enthusiasm, " Buy me one, papa ! " So these boys
 
 198 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 know our uuveiled girls are not birds, but anybody's sis- 
 ters except their own are almost as novel a sight as this 
 boy's bird. 
 
 In mission work the importance of schools can hardly 
 be overestimate*!. It is by their influence that mission- 
 aries best succeed in breaking down the entrenched, and 
 nearly impregnable customs of the East — customs of 
 3,000 years standing — and of imparting Western and 
 Christian ideas of progress and morality. Intense con- 
 servatism, a complete stagnation in everything which con- 
 stitutes true progress, either in the moral or mental world, 
 is a distinguishing feature of the masses in Egypt. 
 
 In these schools the character of every pupil is more or 
 less modeled after the Christian idea, and they go forth, 
 each a missionary, propagating these opinions. "With 
 such agencies at work, the undermining and grad- 
 ual but complete overthrow of the old superstitions and 
 tyrannies of such countries as Egypt, is but a question of 
 time. Give a man a Christian education, and you destroy 
 forever in his mind the old Eastern idea of woman's sub- 
 jection and inferiority. Educate his wife and you have a 
 Christian fomily — a miniature church. It is of prime ne- 
 cessity then, that the customs in regard to the seclusion and 
 inferiority of females be broken down. Before Egypt can 
 become a nation in the true sense of the term, there must 
 be the existence and influence of the family, as constituted 
 upon the Christian idea — one husband and one wife — and 
 the recognized equality of both. 
 
 The training in these mission schools is one of the most 
 successful means of instilling these desired ideas, hence 
 the time and labor devoted to make them effective and 
 influential." 
 
 Since the above was Avritteu, the following letter, illus- 
 trative of much there said, has been received :
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 199 
 
 " Dear Mrs. Balph : — As you and other friends have 
 requested nie to give you a letter for your Society, it has 
 occurred to me that perhaps I coukl not better interest 
 you than by giving you some account of the efforts of our 
 church members here in supporting and cari*ying on pri- 
 mary schools independently of the mission. 
 
 This work was begun about three years ago by two of 
 
 our wealthiest members. They each took a school, rented 
 
 a house, supplied water, &c., and agreed to pay the salaries 
 
 of as many teachers as the congregation might judge to 
 
 be necessary. Not long after a third school was organized 
 
 to be supported by a wealthy Copt who believes many of 
 
 our Protestant doctrines but is not in connection with the 
 
 Church. This was a school for boys and it was located in 
 
 a quarter where there are many Moslems in the hope that 
 
 it might be the entering wedge to work among many of these 
 
 unapproachable jieople. Then about nine months ago a girh' 
 
 school was organized in the same quarter, to be supported 
 
 by one of the younger and less wealthy members of the 
 
 congregation. This school was placed in two small rooms 
 
 above the boys' school, and one of the advanced girls from 
 
 the boarding school was procured for a teacher, at a salary 
 
 of two hundred dollars per month. She was, however, 
 
 very happy to secure the position, as there was no other 
 
 means open to her of earning so much. She opened 
 
 school with six or eight little girls, from six to ten years of 
 
 age. None of them had ever been in a school room, and 
 
 none of them knew the alphabet. So she worked along 
 
 with them during the hot weather, in the primer, while we 
 
 were away in Ramie, but when we returned and the heat 
 
 had subsided enough for me to go out in the afternoons I 
 
 went over to see how she was progressing. 
 
 I had to enter through the boys' school, which is on the 
 
 H
 
 200 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 ground iu an open square or court. On three sides the 
 square is roofed over and rooms built above, forming thus 
 three sheltered places below for the boys, from the heat of 
 the sun — the whole amounting to perhaps twenty-five or 
 thirty feet square. Here I found ninety boys and four 
 teachers, each having a class. 
 
 The head of the school is a bliyul man, who teaches 
 Arabic, reading and grammar and gives religious instruc- 
 tion. I suppose he knows almost every chapter and verse 
 in the Bible, and after the boys have learned the alphabet 
 he gives them a Testament and starts them to spelling the 
 Avords. Then by the time they have spelled through four 
 or five chapters, they are required to go back and read 
 them, and it is surprising what rapid progress they often 
 make. Sometimes when I go in a boy will move out of his 
 place to get a better look at me, but in an instant the 
 Aj'cef — which is a name common to educated blind men — 
 will point to him and require him to sit down immediately, 
 frequently calling him by name. No other teacher keeps 
 as good order in his class as he, and none of them can keep 
 the school so quiet. 
 
 A narrow, dark, mud staii'-case leads up to the girls' 
 school, and here the first time I went I found Fardoos 
 (Paradise), the teacher, well employed with about thirty 
 girls. They were crowded into one room about ten feet 
 square, sitting on high benches, packed in as closely as they 
 could sit, with only room to pass from the door in front of 
 the table and down by the ends of the seats to a little dark 
 room used for storing away shawls, and little bundles of 
 coarse dinner. There was no place for them to play, or 
 walk about except on the little roof This would be com- 
 fortable in winter, but unendurable under a summer sun. 
 About ten of the girls had learned enough to spell and
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 201 
 
 prono*f^iice pretty well, but noue had yet been required to 
 read. I also found that the teacher had followed the na- 
 tive custom of hearing each of the thirty separately and 
 that it took the whole forenoon to give them all one lesson. 
 So I had to grade them in classes, and this worked quite 
 an improvement. Then I procured thread and knitting 
 needles, and cut and basted patch-work for them and al- 
 lowed them to spend half the afternoon in this work, which 
 pleased them very much. By the close of the year the 
 first class had read twelve chapters in John, and reviewed 
 two or three times, and had committed beautifully two- 
 thirds of Brown's Catechism. 
 
 Towards the last of January of this year it was arranged 
 to have an examination of the two schools together, and as 
 it would not be proper for the teacher of the girls to open 
 her lips or show her face in the presence of the men, I 
 agreed to examine the girls, though it was no small ordeal 
 before an Osiout audience. To our surprise all the wealthy 
 influential Copts, and Protestants, and many Moslems at- 
 tended. The whole place and its surroundings was packed, 
 a space of only a few feet square being left in the center 
 for the classes to stand. 
 
 I wish you could have heard the Areef's examination of 
 his advanced class of little boys in the Testament. He be- 
 gan by asking in what language, to whom, and when 
 each part of it was written; how many miracles tl^ 
 Saviour performed, where they Avere wrought, ana 
 what were the attending circumstances ; how many times 
 and to whom Christ appeared after the resurrection, &c., 
 &c. Then he examined them by calling on them to read 
 the account — for instance — of the raising of Lazarus, the 
 conversation with " the woman of Samaria," the turning 
 of water into wine, <fec., the boys being required themselves
 
 202 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 to find the chapter and verse. Mr. Giffen said tjiat it 
 quite reminded him of a theological examination at home. 
 But you cannot imagine how much interest was added to it 
 all by the person of the Areef himself. He was dressed 
 in a long loose gown, the sleeves of which were nearly a 
 yard wide. As he stood before his class very erect, and 
 with his sightless eyes always seeming to look up to heaven, 
 he was a most interesting-looking character. 
 
 The girls and boys alternated, and although the classes 
 were all primary, yet everybody gave the most patient at- 
 tention, and those who could asked questions. But what 
 most surprised me was the notice taken of the (/iris. You 
 know women are here universally regarded as inferiors, 
 as having little mind, and as having no right to compete 
 with men in anything. But the audience at this examina- 
 tion manifested the most decided partiality for the girls — 
 favored them in every way and showed the same tenderness 
 for the little frightened things that we are accustomed to 
 see at home. 
 
 When all was over it was past three o'clock, and though 
 we had been there since niiie o'clock no movement was made 
 to go home. In a little while speeches were called for from 
 the native gentlemen, and after three or four had been made, 
 in which honorable mention was made of the two support- 
 ers of the two schools. Dr. Hogg arose and gave a graphic 
 account of the opening of the first Protestant school in 
 Egypt away in Alexandria twenty-two years ago, ivith 
 eifjht pupils. He recalled the opposition, the trials, the 
 persecutions which had been endured, ending with the 
 statement that there were now more than thirty Protestant 
 schools in the Province of Osiout alone, most of them sup- 
 ported and conducted by natives of the country. He 
 called upon them as patriots, to see to it that not only their
 
 MRS. MAKY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 203 
 
 own children, but those of their neighbors were educated, 
 and chjsed by assuring them that the prosperity of their 
 country did not depend on Rivers AVilson from whom they 
 were expecting so much, but upon the schools of Er/i/pt." 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 EASTERN CUSTOMS, AS ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE BIBLE. 
 
 " AVhen I was a little girl I used to wonder if Ephron 
 the Hittite was not a very hypocritical nian in offering 
 Abraham the Cave of Machpelah for nothing — distinctlv 
 taking the " sons of his people " to witness that it \\as a 
 free gift, and afterwards when Abraham had insisted upon 
 buying it, asking what was no doubt an exorbitant price, 
 covered over with " What is that betwixt me and thee?" 
 But here it is the custom of the seller to say, " Take it, take 
 it! nevermind the money; that is nothing." And once 
 or twice Mr. Giffen has apparently accepted the offer, 
 picked up the article and started off with it. Then you 
 could have heard some pleading to get him to come back. 
 A price is then set upon it, and usually this is about- 
 tivice what they will take. In that case, if you know the 
 value of the article, you need not say anything at all ; 
 just Avalk off, and nine cases out of ten the shopman will 
 run after you and inquire what you ivill rjive. If Abraham 
 had not been in affliction, I feel almost sure he might have 
 bought the Cave for two hundred instead of the four hun- 
 dred shekels of silver. 
 
 One morning last week the Bible lesson in the chapel 
 included the request which a man made to Jesus : " Suffer
 
 204 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 me first to go and bury my father." The explanation 
 usually given of this in commentaries was never very sat- 
 isfactory to me. But Moallim Moosa put a new phase on 
 it for me. He asked the boys if they supposed the man's 
 father Avas really dead. They said, No, they supposed not. 
 He then said, No, he wasn't. It merely meant his father 
 was an old man. He might have been infirm ; his death 
 might have seemed probable, or he might live some years. 
 In any case the greatest respect the son could pay his 
 father would be to be there when he died and give him 
 honorable l)urial. But in this instance it seemed evident 
 that the man made this custom a cloak or pretense for ne- 
 glecting a present duty. The boys seemed to see no difiiculty 
 in the matter at all. It was all in strict keeping with their 
 own styles of speech. They have a proverb that " the 
 way to honor the dead is to bury them." During the 
 meeting in Osiout, just as Presbytery had taken a vote to 
 admit one of the students to the theological class, a mes- 
 senger came for the young man to go home, saying his 
 father was very sick and wished him. All knew that was 
 the Arab style of saying the father Avas dead. It was but 
 two hours' ride to the village, and Dr. Watson started 
 Avith the boy immediately, but when they arrived the man 
 had been buried some time. 
 
 Perhaps you may remember a letter of Dr. Lansing's 
 published in the Instructor, a year or two ago, giving an 
 account of a man who had been a soldier, but being dis- 
 abled had been compelled to cut stone in the mountains, 
 and who had in a wonderful way been brought to accept 
 the truth. He works all day in the quarries, and fre- 
 quently comes to Dr. Lansing's after night. While I was 
 there he came in great distress. His son was with him — a 
 slight boy of fourteen. The family lived in LTpper Egypt
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFPEN. 205 
 
 and the boy had run away from home to keep the officers 
 from seizing him for the army. His father could not find 
 him support or employment, and he brought him to Dr. 
 Lansing. After the case was disposed of, the usual relig- 
 ious conversation began, ending with prayer. At such 
 times the man generally brought some other person with 
 him from the quarries, and both would sleep there and 
 leave before day for their work ; and even when the relig- 
 ious talk and prayers had been extended, Mrs. Lansing 
 said the light in their room would still be burning 
 when she would retire, and she could hear the murmur 
 of his voice as he read and explained some part of the 
 Bible to his companion. The night he came with his son 
 Mrs. L. took Mr. A. and myself in the study to see them 
 as they would never come to the table, and there were hoik 
 father and son xvearing raiment of camels' hair, tvith leath- 
 ern girdles around their waists. We made a remark about 
 it, and Dr. L. said, " Yes, that one coarse garment was 
 their only clothing, and that the similarity in raiment was 
 not the only resemblance to John the Baptist." No doubt 
 this man and others like him, often think of the poverty 
 of John, of the disciples, and of their Master and find 
 comfort in it. How much better they can understand 
 some things in the Bible than many of our Western Chris- 
 tians who wear " purple and fine linen and fare sumptu- 
 ously every day " — who, Avhen they read the description of 
 John's raiment, naturally conclude that he was a hermit 
 and denied himself better clothing voluntarily. People 
 in America are not accustomed to find acuteness of mind 
 associated with poverty so great as to admit of only one 
 coarse hair garment, but here we often see it and have 
 therefore little difficulty in imagining John the Baptist as 
 much such a man as our poor friend in the quarries.
 
 206 LIFE AND LETTERS OP 
 
 I think there are very few customs described in the 
 Bible which are not j^retty well understood by the people 
 here. When told of some of these perhaps they might 
 say, " O that's an old fashion," but still they know of it, 
 while many are current still, exactly as they were then. 
 There must therefore be a meaning, an internal evidence 
 in the Bible to these people, which Western Christians 
 never perceive. 
 
 The more we see of the people here the miore evident 
 does it become that the Bible was written by and for Ori- 
 entals, and the more perfectly do they seem to illustrate 
 those old characters. In consequence many of our im- 
 pressions of Bil>le worthies have been considerably modi- 
 fied. 
 
 I have often heard great emphasis laid on the saluta- 
 tion of Boaz to his reapers, and their equally pious reply, 
 as indicating a very happy state of society. But the fact 
 is there is not a particle of religion in the matter. Boaz 
 simply meant to say " Good morning " to his laborers — a 
 thing never neglected here — and they only answered in 
 the prescribed form. The mass of the people do not knoxo 
 that their salutations, exclamations, good wishes, &c., have 
 or admit of any other meaning than the sense in which 
 they use them. When I went to Mansoora I was shocked 
 to hear one of our members say to another " Yallah," 
 Avhen he Avished to start after a call. I asked my teacher 
 what it meant. He said, " Let us go." I affirmed that 
 the man said " O God." " O no," he replied, " it don't 
 mean that Avhen we use it." The same teacher would 
 always exclaim " Ullah ! " if surprised, as in case of meet- 
 ing any one suddenly, and he and others like him being 
 often in the house, a little mission child, which was just 
 beginning to talk, got that among its first Avords, and if
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEX. 207 
 
 anyone came in unexpectedly would exclaim "Ullah" 
 with the most i)erf'ect imitation of the native tone and 
 manner. 
 
 Orientals are exceedinghj polite, but to be so they viud 
 refer everything to God, must connect His name and at- 
 tributes with it in some wa3^ No matter how careless, 
 impi'ovident. unreligious or even openly wicked a man 
 may be, he has an unfailing resource in any calamity. 
 " Ullah kareem " — "God is liberal or generous" — mean- 
 ing He will provide for us. One who only understood the 
 language without knowing anything of Eastern character, 
 would be almost sure to exclaim, " AVhat perfect resigna- 
 tion to God's will ! " The most pious ejaculations, or what 
 would seem such to us, are showered on everybody by 
 everybody. 
 
 New missionaries are usually very much shocked by 
 these customs. What seems very pious in the Bible seems 
 very profane when constantly tossed from lip to lip in 
 every day life, and they set themselves against it, but by 
 the time they get a moderate use of the language they see 
 that the customs which have stood for thousands of years 
 are likely to stand a Avhile longer, and insensibly they 
 glide into the habit of saying some of the same things. 
 Such things are the language of the people and nothing 
 else is intelligible. 
 
 If Orientals are not angry they are very scrupulous in 
 bestowing honorable titles on each other. I have heard 
 ministers refer to the language of the sons of Heth when 
 Abraham wished to purchase the Cave of Machpelah from 
 them as evidence of the high esteem in which the Patri- 
 arch was held. No doubt he was highly regarded, but the 
 language is not certain proof of it. Every man here is, 
 or may be, addressed as " Ya Seedi " — ray Lord. It is
 
 208 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 merely a polite address much used by superiors to inferi- 
 ors and much more so by equals. Every woman so ad- 
 dresses her husband. Sarah called Abraham " My Lord," 
 honoring him of course, for no woman here would think 
 of imagining herself as good as her husband, but I doubt 
 if Sarah ever heard a husband addressed in any other way. 
 Abraham would call her "Ya biutee" — my girl — or at 
 least all Arab husbands do, provided they are in a pleas- 
 ant humor. If not the wife, like the rest of the female 
 servants, is just screamed at as " Ya bint," when anything 
 is in requisition. The ee termination is a little like our y 
 and indicates the first person, and if added to a noun 
 means " my," and also has in some instances something of 
 an affectionate tone. 
 
 Extravagant in the use of polite terms when pleased. 
 Orientals when angry with each other, surpass the world 
 in ability to heap up abusive epithets. The acme of their 
 wrath, the very culmination of hate and contempt is to call 
 a man a hog — " Ya chanzeer," — he may be a dog, or the 
 son of a dog, but there can be nothing left unsaid when he 
 has been called chanzeer. Swine's flesh is not very abund- 
 ant here, and most Americans often long for it and would 
 have it were it not so expensive, but I do not feel comforta- 
 ble to have natives see us eat it, and will I think soon come 
 to dislike it. All eastern j^eople regard it as unclean, and 
 I have to keep my thoughts busy about something else to 
 eat it in comfort. You have no idea how it sounds to hear 
 the cook talk about lahm chanzeer, when he means pork. 
 
 Reviling is one of the greatest sins of the east. It is an 
 Oriental's sweetest revenge. It does his whole soul good 
 to curse your father and your father's father, but you he 
 never curses. I have seen men stand and scream " You 
 son of a dog, son of a dog " till their breath was gone.
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEX. 209 
 
 Then they would call on the Lord to curse your father. 
 These two expressions indeed are in every child's mouth 
 and are heard at every corner. 
 
 As I said before an Arab does not speak to his wife as if 
 she was his equal, nor does she take his name as we do. If 
 you inquire for her where she is not known by her given 
 name you may distinguish her as " the wife of" such an one. 
 But her real name, her womanly title, she gets from the 
 name of her child. Should the first one be a girl it is a 
 great mkfortune, and deeply lamented, but still the woman 
 takes the name of its mother, until the Wirth of a boy. 
 Then there is a great feast, the most extravagant joy is 
 both felt and expressed, and ever after the mother is known 
 by the name of her son. Two years ago when I used to go 
 with Mrs. Ewing to Carmoose there was a little woman 
 there learning to read, who had a babe name Ruf ka or Re- 
 becca. She was always spoken of as " Om Ruf ka " — 
 Mother of Rebecca. Last fall when I went back there 
 alone I found I had forgotten the location of her house, 
 and went into some others to inquire — the families being 
 related, I asked for "Om Rufka's" house. Not one of 
 them seemed to know anything about such a person, and 
 as I did not know the name of her husband I was about 
 giving it up in despair. However I concluded to make 
 another effort, and made the description so plain that they 
 were obliged to understand — which I am confident they 
 had done from the first. The woman's mother-in-law then 
 growled out in no gracious tone " You want " Om Ilra- 
 heem." Instantly I was enlightened. A boy had been 
 added to the family since I had been there, Om Rufka's 
 " reproach had been taken away," and her relatives could 
 not help resenting my ignorance. 
 
 It is a very rare thing here to see a man and his wife go 
 anywhere together. Even Avhen both are at church the
 
 210 LIFE AXIJ I-ETTERS OF 
 
 husband will either go off with a company of men or linger 
 behind to talk to some one, leaving his wife both to come 
 and go alone and also to carry the baby herself. Then she 
 does not sit down to eat with him. Very, very few natives 
 have any table except a little thing a foot high on which 
 the one dish is placed. This is placed on a mat and the hus- 
 band and sons gather round it sitting on the floor and dip- 
 ping their bread into the dish, always u'ith the right hand. 
 The wife and daughters stand around and serve — that is 
 replenishing the supply of bread and water and make cof- 
 fee and bring the pipes and tobacco after the meal. When 
 all that is over and the men and boys have gone to sleep 
 or to their business, the women and girls eat ivhat is left. 
 But I suppose of course if there isn't enough of that they 
 can have the privilege of cooking more. 
 
 A few minutes ago I opened my door, and hearing a 
 voice I went through the next room to the hall door to find 
 what it was. I soon discovered it Avas the Moslem bow- 
 wab* praying. He is quite young and excruciatingly defer- 
 ential, always takes off his shoes before coming towards us, 
 walks backwards when leaving our presence, and rises the 
 moment we come to the hall door, though it is fifty feet 
 from his seat, excejd when he w praying. Then he doesn't 
 notice us in any way. He keeps his rug beside him, and 
 at the regular hours puts it on the floor, turns his face to 
 . Mecca and prays aloud with amazing energy and earnest- 
 ness. Sometimes he seems to speak, at other times one 
 word is repeated Avith great rapidity just as long as he can 
 without breathing and at other times it is a kind of an or- 
 gan. Before beginning he always leaves the door open, so 
 that he need not stop to open it for any one wishing to 
 enter as he would then be required by the Koran to go 
 back to the first and repeat all he had said. If we have 
 
 * Doorkeejiei-.
 
 MRS. MARY (iAl.r.oW'AV (JTFFKX. 211 
 
 sent him out, or he is empkiyed in his work at the " house 
 of prayer " he will omit them then and repeat them all at 
 night. And then you .should hear the echoes he wake.s 
 up out there with the grand roll of aUaliu it alee, allahu 11 
 azeem. 
 
 It seems wonderful to us how the Mohammedam laith is 
 instilled into children, with what intendhj they believe in 
 it and how entirely they are strangers to anything like 
 shame in being seen worshiping. They do not slirink 
 from any okservation. This servant knows that we have 
 no faith in hi.s religion, that we consider it the essence of all 
 that is bad, and in everything else he shows us the most 
 unquestioning deference, but when it comes to the matter 
 of his prayers we are absolutely nothing in his estimation. 
 
 Moslems pray anywhere. (;)ue day our teacher passed 
 one praying and was excited to sto]) and listen. And here 
 was his petition : " O God, destroy my enemies, pluck out 
 their eyes, cut off their hands, break their feet and crush 
 their heads." All this he had arranged in rhyme and was 
 just going over and over it. The words of the regular 
 prayers are pi-escribed by the Koran, but after they are 
 said, anything else may be added. 
 
 One day while the servants were packing our furniture 
 in a car Mr. Gitfen heard quite an outcry round him and 
 soon saw that he was giving great olfense somehow. On 
 looking down he noticed that he was standing on one of a 
 series of stones laid in a row from a water faucet to a 
 small platform on which the Moslimen railroad servants per- 
 formed their devotions. Before every prayer they must 
 perform a thorough ablution in nnnriiu/ water, and then 
 must not touch the ground, stepping innnediately from the 
 bath with dripjjing feet into their shoes, or else on a 
 " prayer carpet." These men however dispense with the
 
 212 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 carpet and have a wooden platform, used in common, which 
 was reached from the faucet by the stones on which Mr. 
 Giffen had inadvertently set his irreverent feet. He got 
 off immediately, and to the indignation of the rest one of 
 them said apologetically, " He doesn't know," and imme- 
 diately they ran and brought water and gave the polluted 
 stone a thorough scrubbing." 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 LETTER TO THE LADIES BENEVOLENT SOCIETY IN NEW- 
 BERRY, S. C, 
 
 " It gave me great pleasure to hear through your kind 
 pastor, of the prosi^erity of your Society, and of the 
 very happy reflexive influences which you are exerting. 
 It is a peculiar treasure if in doing good to others we are 
 blessed in our own souls also. Many a munificent charity 
 has been made to redound to the glory of God, and the 
 good of fellow-mortals, which yet sent back no blessing 
 into the hand which gave it. May this not be your lot. 
 When you meet to work and consult together about the 
 best means to be adopted for advancing the pecuniary 
 interests of the cause in which you are engaged, may each 
 one of you feel that you have come together for a far more 
 glorious purj^ose than simply to raise so much money. 
 May you realize that you are in the immediate service of 
 the Great King to whom all nations belong. 
 
 All your missionary meetings are witnesses for Jesus. 
 Thev afiirm before men and angels that vou believe in the
 
 MRS. JVIARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 218 
 
 final triumph of His kingdom over all the worlil, that He 
 is a Master whose service is a joy to your own hearts, and 
 that you work and pray that other sin-sick souls may be 
 brought to the Great Healer. 
 
 And when "the fire burns" in your own hearts, when 
 you are rejoicing in belonging to so great a Master, when 
 you realize how glorious and all-powerful He is — then my 
 friends pray for missionaries, jn-ay for your own vimion- 
 aries, for I hope you now feel that you have two here. 
 You cannot form any idea of how much we need the 
 prayers of the people of God. You think of us as leav- 
 ing home and all we love behind us, and perhaps you feel 
 that only a superior faith could enable one to do that, and 
 therefore that what we most need is material support, as- 
 surance of Christian sympathy, and the preserving care 
 of God over us in the long journey. I think it is true 
 that it requires genuine faith to enable one to come forth 
 alone into such an unknown world almost ; but it by no 
 means follows that it is faith which does not need to be 
 strengthened every day. The great struggle which one 
 must make in giving up all, and yet keep natural emo- 
 tions in subjection, does not always sensibly advance a 
 missionary's divine life. In many cases after the great 
 tension has subsided I have no doubt that heart and soul 
 both seem dead. I myself felt smitten with a paralysis of 
 all feeling, and when we landed in Egypt everything was 
 in " an unknown tongue." Even the family prayers were 
 in Arabic. How^ hard under such circumstances for the 
 deadened shriveled soul to get back its life and freshness 
 again. 
 
 There is no Sabbath in the streets. There is just as 
 much business on that day as on any other. The shop win- 
 dows are just as gay with ribbons, laces and flowers, as if
 
 214 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 God claimed no part of the day for himself. All occupa- 
 tions go on just the same, as if the " buying and selling 
 and getting gain," Avere the one purpose for which the 
 world Avas created. 
 
 Then, too, on Sabbath, for a long time after we came, 
 we knew nothing of what the minister was saying, and 
 even yet our closest attention is necessary to make a run- 
 ning translation. When one has been drilled a year and 
 a half on pronunciation, idioms and general construction, 
 there is such a temptation to criticize the preacher, to no- 
 tice every sound which he failed to make distinct and to 
 wonder " why he used such and such a word in such a 
 Avay." Perhaps it is a very profitable lesson in Arabic, 
 but it is a very small portion of food which the soul has 
 received. 
 
 I hope then you can realize now something of the diffi- 
 culties Avhich missionaries encounter in their fii'st years — 
 hoAV very much they have to deaden and dAvarf their spir- 
 itual life. Of all people Ave seem to need the fullest meas- 
 ure of the Holy Spirit. We need it before Ave are able 
 to Avork and Ave need it after Ave can Avork. We need it 
 to save us from despondency in our first efforts to use a 
 neAV and exceedingly diflicult language, and then Avhen 
 you become able to deal Avith the natives you so much need 
 it to enable you to combat the false doctrines which cen- 
 turies have implanted in them, and to be able to meet and 
 defeat the cunning, deceit and falsehood Avhich are parts 
 of the religion of the East, and for Avhich I suppose there 
 is no parallel anyAvhere else in the world — Avithout becom- 
 ing yourself like them. 
 
 If heaven blesses our labors to the good of others Ave 
 are in great danger of missing the blessing ourselves. 
 Then pray much for us. We endeavor to consecrate our-
 
 MRS. xMAKY GALLOWAY CilFFEN. 215 
 
 selves anew every day we live, to feel that we have no part 
 or lot in this world's trade, commerce, or emoluments, but 
 only to wo'rk that souls may be brought into the kingdom 
 «f' our Master. But we have nuich to hinder us. 
 
 Our mis.-^ion has passed the persecuting stage among the 
 Copts, and as yet we can do little among the Moslems. 
 WHien the truth is new and men eagerly embrace it in the 
 face of great trials — even at the risk of death itself, it be- 
 gets an enthusiasm in the whole church which swallows up 
 self, lightens labor and increases faith. " Times of refresh- 
 ing " like this were enjoyed here when Dr. Hogg first 
 came to Asyoot, or rather a few years afterAvard, but now 
 we have the far more up-hill, prosaic work of educating 
 the church — just such work as grieved the hearts of the Apos- 
 tles when they found their converts turning away from the 
 truth. In this way the present year has been a marked one in 
 our mission, but the brethren hope that the results will not be 
 as serious as thev had reason to fear at first. You see then 
 how greatbj Ave need your continual remembrance of us at 
 the throne of grace. We regard our mission as one of the 
 most important in the world, and yet we have so much to 
 discourage us. You cannot guess how much Ave need the 
 " Avisdom of the serpent Avith the harmlessness of the dove," 
 or hoAV much Ave Avant the faith Avhich is able to remove 
 mountains and cast them into the sea. You cannot form 
 an idea of Avhat it is to live in a country Avhere there is 
 no Sabbath, and Avhere the name of God is more lightly 
 used than any one in the dictionary ; nor canyon appreciate 
 Avhat it is to spend years here before you can fully enter into the 
 meaning of, and enjoy the services of I'eligion. All of us 
 suffer in this Avay, and some missionaries feel that they 
 never can fully recover from the injury. 
 
 So do not foi'get to pray for us. Without the spirit of 
 God we can do nothing, and Avhen Ave look over our mission
 
 216 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 stations here, it makes us feel as I have often felt at 
 home when looking upon a field of corn, parching up in a 
 summer drought — " O ! for the rain." 
 
 In writing to these friends of her childhood all barriers 
 of reserve and restraint are broken down, and we here see 
 Mrs. Giffen's character as it really was. They were tried 
 friends and to them she Avrites in all the unreserved confidence 
 and sincerity of friendship. We have here a glimpse of her 
 character not seen in any of her jniblic letters. The cur- 
 tain of modesty and privacy is drawn aside, and we have 
 a most distinct impression of tke strong yet dependent 
 faith which actuated and sustained her under her sore trials in 
 that remote land. All noble natures shrink from display- 
 ing to the world the inner and most sacred feelings of 
 their souls, and especially their communings with their 
 Maker. In no people is this shrinking modesty and deli- 
 cacy more manifest than in the refined, educated women 
 of the South. 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 Ahmed's conversion. 
 
 " We have all been greatly interested recently in 
 news from Cairo of the apparently genuine conversion 
 of Miss Smith's Arabic teacher — a young Moslem of good 
 social position. 
 
 A missionary's lessons are largely in the Bible, and this 
 gave Miss Smith the opportunity to preach the gospel to 
 him — which she seems to have done well. The most abom-
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIPFEN. 217 
 
 intible of all our doctrines to a Moslem is the idea that 
 God can have a >S'y/t. It is not safe among them to use the 
 expression " Sou of God," if you are not known to them or 
 have not some guarantee of security. So last summer 
 Moallim Ahmed asked Miss S. if this doctrine were taught 
 in the Old Testament, and how the Jews knew to expect a 
 Saviour. She referred him to Isaiah and Daniel, helped 
 him in every way, borrowed books for him, &c., but did 
 know until recently how well she had succeeded. 
 
 Moallim Ahmed's father is a " head scribe " in one of 
 the government offices in Cairo, and is a Moslem of the 
 most rigid type. He, however, appreciates education, and 
 therefore sent his sons to the mission school. One rule of 
 the school of course was that every pupil must study the 
 Bible. So to secure the secular advantages of the school, 
 and at the same time counteract the religious influence, he 
 engaged a famous sheik to come every evening and go over 
 the Bible lesson with the older son and point out to him 
 everything which went against the teachings of Islam. 
 Dr. Watson then, as now% gave a general Bible lesson to 
 the whole school as a part of chapel exercises, and he says 
 this older boy often just seemed to gnash his teeth at being 
 compelled to listen to these Scripture explanations. Moal- 
 lim Ahmed was the younger and does not seem to have 
 been guarded as was Mohammed, or ever to have shown 
 such bitterness. When we were in Cairo two years ago he 
 seemed about twenty years old, and had probably been a 
 couple of years out of school, during which time he was 
 dragoman or interpreter to a Doctor Warren of Virginia, 
 who was in the Viceroy's service. In the family of Doctor 
 W. he seems to have imbibed a great liking for Frank cus- 
 toms, and his first admission of a change of belief was in 
 the matter of the Moslem treatment of women. We were.
 
 218 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 however, much surprised when perhaps a month ago he 
 gave Miss Smith a written confession of his faith in Christ, 
 stating clearly the process of inquiry through which he 
 had passed, ending in what seems to be a deep, warm, af- 
 fectionate reception of the truth of the gospel. He stated 
 in an affecting way his trials at home, his efforts to avoid 
 compliance with Moslem rites and his sorrow when com- 
 pelled to do so. His father required his children to follow 
 his example of praying five times a day, and poor Ahmed 
 must have had a hard time evading it. He said he knew 
 well that his fathei- would either kill him instantly or 
 poison him, and he therefore felt that he must leave Cairo. 
 Secret death from his nearest relative is what every 
 Moslem knows he must experience if he becomes a Chris- 
 tian and leaves himself in the power of his family. So at 
 first it was thought best to send Ahmed up here, but after- 
 wards Dr. Lansing persuaded him to come to his house 
 when he would leave his home and he would protect him, 
 and then they hoped they might reap good fruit from the 
 discussion which was sure to follow. So Ahmed left letters 
 for his father and brothers, and I suppose quietly left the 
 house. Almost immediately two brothers folloAved him 
 and begged him to go home with them and " keep his re- 
 ligion in his heart," adding that they had not told their 
 father. Ahmed knew that this was a falsehood to get him 
 into his fiither's power. The next day the brothers brought 
 sheiks with them to ai'gue the matter. Drs. Lansing and 
 Watson were greatly pleased with the manner in which 
 Ahmed sustained his part of the question. This plan fail- 
 ing, they then tried to induce him to goto the great mosque 
 of Azhar and meet the Ulema of Islam, but Dr. Lansing- 
 told them even he would not trust himself in the Azhar 
 without a guard of soldiers, much less Ahmed. Sometimes
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY UlFFEX. 219 
 
 his mother came and wept over him, beseeching him to go 
 home. Other times just one brother would come and talk 
 to him, and again all the faniilv woidd come together ex- 
 cept the fafher and a little brother. 
 
 Our fear was that, all other methods failing, the father 
 would demand him from Dr. L. on a charge of theft. In 
 that case the Consul said he would have to be given up, 
 and would then be at the mei'cy of his enemies. But the 
 last letters say he has been let alone for four days. His 
 father lodged information against him with the Viceroy, 
 and also sent word to Sheik el Ishim in Constantinople. 
 The former answered by a very ex})ressive idiom in uni- 
 versal use: ^'Just aft he likefi. There is freedom of religion 
 in Egypt." But the sheik replied : " He deserves to be 
 burnt.'' The Viceroy's deliverance will have the effect of 
 preventing any legal proceedings now, and perhaps the 
 anger of the father will subside after a little. 
 
 Altogether this is a wonderful event in Egypt. Of 
 course Ahmed Dxiy be deceived in himself, but so far the 
 opinion of all the Cairo, missionaries is strongly in his 
 favor. 
 
 December 1st. — I wrote you a few weeks ago an account 
 of Moallim Ahmed's conversion. He was baptized about 
 the time I wrote, and has since informally joined the Sec- 
 ond Theological class, which is studying this winter in 
 Cairo. He is still at Dr. Lansing's, and still gives very 
 satisfactory evidence that he has really been brought to the 
 knowledge of the truth. The trial of leaving his family 
 was at first very great, but they say he is now quite cheer- 
 ful. Many of his Moslem friends call to see him and he 
 takes every opportunity to preach the gospel to them. One 
 of his brothers he thinks is coming to the light. His 
 father has never had but the one wife, and thev seem to
 
 220 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 have been an unusually affectionate family. One daughter 
 is one of four wives, her husband being one of the Judges 
 in the International Court of First Instance in Alexandria, 
 but Ahmed thinks she is the favorite wife. His mother 
 seems quite a nice woman, and bore herself with dignity 
 when she came to Dr. Lansing's. Her other sous had told 
 her Ahmed was magnoun — crazy — but when she came and 
 heard him talk she said to them to let him alone, he wasn't 
 magnoun. The first time his brothers all came together to 
 see him they staid almost all day and made it very hard 
 for Ahmed, yet when the left they each kissed him. He 
 did not come to tea, and when Dr. W. went to his room to 
 see what was the matter he was lying on the divan crying. 
 The first night he left home they sent for the " mourning 
 women " and mourned all night as for the dead. They do 
 not tease him so much now, but he knows very well that 
 they will not give over yet. He says himself that his father 
 cannot do otherwise than persecute him, as he would else 
 be suspected and held to account as an infidel to the faith. 
 Ahmed has studied more or less for some years under the 
 great sheiks in the Azhar, and the first thing his father did 
 on hearing the news of his defection was to send and ac- 
 cuse these sheiks of having taught his son false doctrine, 
 or at least to have failed in fortifying him in the faith, but 
 I suppose everybody would understand that this was merely 
 a strong way of asserting that the false doctrine had not 
 been imbibed at home. 
 
 Our church members in Cairo were very slow to give 
 Ahmed the hand of friendship, and up here those of whom 
 we expected more boldly affirmed that it wasn't genuine. 
 " Moslems were all bad. There wasn't a good one among 
 them." It seems just the old story of the Jews and Gen- 
 tiles.
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 221 
 
 Ahmed had never attended our church until he went to 
 Dr. Lansing's. It was all very wonderful to him, and he 
 seemed greatly troubled that he could not sing. He told 
 some of the mission that it certainly was " a new life " on 
 which he had entered. They say he gets on wonderfully 
 well in adapting himself to our ways and seems to enjoy 
 his food very much, though it is so different from what he 
 has been accustomed to all his life. Dr. Lansing in one of 
 his letters to some one here remarked that he was " an ex- 
 ceedingly agreeable person to have in the house." I think 
 that is more than he could say for any Copt or Syrian that 
 I know in the mission. Should the power of Islam be 
 broken in this war I think we might reasonably hope that 
 it would open the door to work among the Moslems. That 
 Avould be a happy consummation for our mission. As it is 
 now, our gentlemen can preach, but Moslems cannot hear. 
 When they can listen in safety then we may look for a new 
 era in the East. 
 
 December 27th.— At the date of my last letter the ex- 
 citement seemed to be subsiding, but last week we were 
 startled with the news that he was missing. He was not in 
 his room and no one had seen him. Inquiry was made im- 
 mediately, and getting no clue the missionaries went at 
 once to the Consuls and from there to Shareef Pasha — the 
 Minister of State. Next day it came out that three men, 
 who were said to be the spies of the government, were 
 standing together under a Avindow at which Mrs. Lansing 
 was sitting, and that when Ahmed came up alone he was 
 seized by the back of the neck, a hand placed over his 
 mouth and himself thrust into a close carriage. The sus- 
 pense and anxiety felt by the missionaries was of course 
 very great, and that night special prayer Avas made in the 
 Mission Chapel— the church members seeming to take
 
 222 l^IFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 much interest in the matter. The first information re- 
 ceived was that " Ahmed was in his father's house, and that 
 being such, his father had the right to keep him a few days, 
 but that he was safe from violence." We here do not 
 know how the information came, or Avhether the mission- 
 aries endeavored to communicate with Ahmed personally, 
 but we are certain they have done everything which seemed 
 possible. For some days we wondered at the indefiniteness 
 of their letters, but at last Mrs. Lansing said we must ex- 
 cuse initials and mere allusions, that they could not be ex- 
 plicit, as " everything was closely watched." She said Drs. 
 Watson and Lansing were much worn, and that there was 
 l>ut one subject of interest and conversation. A day or 
 two later Dr. W. wrote, " Xo further news of Ahmed, ex- 
 cept that he appears to be standing firm." But two days 
 ago Miss Johnston wrote that they were in an almost inde- 
 scribable state of anxiety, as " the Viceroy had told our 
 Consul that Ahmed was at liberty, that he had signed his 
 recantation, and that in two days there would be an oppor- 
 tunity for him to testify to it publicly at the Zabteeya — 
 police court — in presence of the chief of police and the 
 Consul." Miss J. added, "we do not believe that Ahmed 
 is denying his IMaster, and are very doubtful if any such 
 thing occiu-s at the Zabteeya." Of course we here are very 
 anxious to hear the result, but even if Ahmed is forced 
 through the form of a recantation we do not despair of 
 him. It is true he may have been himself deceived, but 
 it seems strange that if he were not one of Christ's chosen 
 ones that he would make not one false step in the month 
 during which he was in Dr. L.'s house, and was subject to 
 the closest scrutiny from every member of the Cairo Sta- 
 tion. Probably no human being in Egypt ever stood in 
 such a place as he has occupied — alone, against the whole
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 223 
 
 might of Islam, in Cairo, it.^ yreatest stronyho/d. What a 
 subject of praise and thanksgiving it wouhl be to us to 
 know that he was dead, for then we would know that he 
 had gone to receive a martyr's crown. We feel sure that 
 he must recant or die, unless it should please God to send 
 him special deliverance, and if he die, we are not likely 
 ever to know it. 
 
 We have almost no doubt that the Viceroy is deceiving 
 the Consuls in this, as he does in other matters. He prob- 
 ably does not care himself what Ahmed's faith is, but when 
 the heads of the Moslem sects come to him and say that 
 this matter must stop, nobody doubts what he will say. 
 Ahmed's family stand high, and ihe i^hame of his defection 
 will be felt in a way and to a degree that we cannot com- 
 prehend. Any crime, the sum of all crimes, indeed, they 
 would lightly esteem in comparison with this. Should he 
 remain faithful, years may jiass before he is secure from 
 their deep laid plots, but the probability is that his days will 
 be few. 
 
 January 4th. — Misses Johnston and Smith have come 
 up from Cairo and have given us full particulars of Moal- 
 lim Ahmed's case, and very sad they are. The day before 
 they left the Consul sent for Drs. L. and W. They went 
 to the Consulate and met there Ahmed, his father and 
 three brothers. They said Ahmed had recanted and they 
 wished his books from Dr. L.'s house. The latter said to 
 A., "Is this true? Have you returned to Islam?" 
 " Yes," he replied, but did not speak again. Dr. L. thought 
 him much changed, his face worn, thin and pale. On 
 leaving Mr. L. inquired of the father if Ahmed would 
 come back to his work in the school. " Not just yet," he 
 said, as he wished him to go to Minyeh to his plantations. 
 The father used to live in jNIinyeh, which is three stations
 
 224 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 from here on the railroad, and these plantations were 
 given to him by the Viceroy. Mohammed, the oldest 
 brother of Ahmed, has charge of a very large Govern- 
 ment school there, and was sent for immediately after A. 
 came to Dr. L.'s. On coming to Cairo he spent almost a 
 whole day in hot argument with Ahmed, being much 
 harsher with him than the others, and telling them all 
 when he left that he would return next day to Minyeh. 
 Various lies were told Ahmed to convince all concerned 
 that Mohammed really had returned to his school and the 
 afternoon that Ahmed was kidnapped a younger brother 
 brought a list of books and left it xvith Mrs. Lansing, as 
 Ahmed was at the school, saying ]\Iohammed wished Ah- 
 med to select them for him and send them on to Minyeh. 
 All this was to prevent any suspicion of Mohammed's pres- 
 ence, though at that very time he was sitting in the car- 
 riage below Mrs. L.'s window. 
 
 When the missionaries found Ahmed had been cap- 
 tured by government officials, they supposed he would 
 be either instantly killed or sent directly to the White Nile ; 
 and when after a day or two no tidings of him came, Miss 
 Smith resolved at least to attempt calling on his mother. She 
 had always seemed so fond of Ahmed, and the latter had 
 frequently expressed the hope that Miss S. might some 
 day be able to visit at the house and induce his mother to 
 learn to read. The young ladies thought it probable that 
 the mother was in ignorance of Ahmed's whereabouts, and 
 Miss S. thought she might be able to touch her heart if she 
 went to talk to her about her son. So she called up an 
 old Moslem bow-wab and told him to bring a donkey, and 
 that she wished him to go with her to Moallim Ahmed's 
 house. He refused to go most positively and would not 
 bring the donkey. " Why ! " he said, " they will kill you
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 225 
 
 and me l)<)th long before we get to the house." Miss S. 
 told him that she was going and asked him if he called 
 himself a man and was afraid to go with her through a 
 street of Cairo among people of his own religion. He 
 said : " All the same, I can't go." After a little two of 
 the teachers in the boys' school rode up. Miss Smith 
 asked for their donkey. They told her she could take the 
 donkey, but how on earth could she venture into such a 
 place ! They would certainly kill her. The house they 
 said, was in one of the densest of Moslem quarters, the 
 streets were very narrow, and no Frank ever went there, 
 that a Frank woman would attract everybody's notice, and 
 that if she went she would never return. She asked the 
 others to pray for her, got on the donkey and told the old 
 bow-wab to come along. One of the teachers who objected 
 most, is rather a rough sort of a man, and, they always 
 supposed, destitute of any very tender feeling. But they 
 sat down to wait to see if Miss Smith would come back or 
 not. The others tried to talk and this man would answer 
 questions, but every few minutes he would say, " She's in 
 the Mooskey by this time." Then again, "Now she's at 
 such and such a place, but they'll kill her, they'll kill her." 
 Then again, " Now she's there, and if they do strike her 
 she's got no body and they would kill her at the first blow." 
 (Miss Smith is very small and delicate looking.) As Moal- 
 lira Farag had said, she got to the place in due time, wind- 
 ing through all sorts of dark, narrow streets, with thous- 
 ands of black holes along the way into which " a dog of a 
 Christian might have been thrown to die, but without any 
 such calamity befalling her." No one seemed to notice 
 her or wonder about her. She remembered the address on 
 the letters Moallim Ahmed had sent to his family while at 
 Dr. L.'s, and told the servant to stop at the right door.
 
 226 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 He insisted that wasn't the one, and after wandering; 
 np and down the street two or three times, declared he had 
 forgotten the house. She then got off the donkey, went to 
 the door and ordered him to rap the knocker. He refused 
 and she went up and did it herself. A slave woman came 
 and peeped out of a crack of the door but refused to open 
 it. Miss S. pushed it open by exerting all her strength in 
 a quiet way. She told the woman she wished to see the 
 Sitt. " Well, she isn't here." " Yes, she is," Miss S. re- 
 plied, " and I must see her." " No, she isn't here, and you 
 must get out of here immediately. We killed a man right 
 here where you are standing, right down there. Don't you 
 see the blood ?" Miss »S. said she didn't and must see the 
 Sitt. " Go away ! I say ! Don't I tell you we killed a 
 man here." When Miss S. wouldn't go, the maid had re- 
 luctantly to go in to see what was to be done, but over and 
 over she Avarued her not to stir one step from where she 
 was. In a minute or two a male servant came in closing 
 the door behind him. Miss S. approached him and oftered 
 salutations, but he Avouldn't salute and ordered her out. 
 She begged again to see the Sitt. But he only said, " Go 
 out, please get out ;" and when she didn't move he took 
 her by the arm and put her out. In a few days the Vice- 
 roy told the Consul where Ahmed was, and that he mud go 
 to the Consulate and recant. The day before they took him 
 there Mohammed took him out walking and brought him 
 pa.'^t Dr. Lanslnr/s hou.'<c, Mohammed holding him by the 
 arm and another Moslem walking on the other side. Then 
 two days after they were at the Consulate the bow-wab 
 saw them on the street, Mohammed holding Ahmed's 
 hand. The bow-wab went immediately towards them to 
 speak, and A. turned towards him. " Come along ! You 
 must not," said Mohammed. " But I will," Ahmed re-
 
 MRS. MARY CiALLOWAY (JrFFKX. 227 
 
 plied, and saluted. Then the old servant with great tact 
 began to inform liini alxnit Miss Smith's visit to the house, 
 asking, " AVas it proper to turn her out of doors when she 
 'went to visit your mother?" Ahmed said he didn't know 
 she had been there, and said to beg her not to be angry. 
 AVe have no doubt this was the first piece of pleasant news 
 the poor fellow had had, and are sure it would greatly en- 
 courage him. The next day one of the Cairo church mem- 
 mers got a Moslem and a .great infidel ])hi]osopher to take 
 him to the house. AVhen he asked to go with them, they 
 said, " You go there ? Why, they'll kill you ! " But he 
 went, and Ahmed was permitted to come down. After a 
 little the philosopher stepped out, and the Moslem not un- 
 derstanding English, Ahmed and the member could speak. 
 He said " his heart Avas on fire," that h(i was with us still, 
 that he was so persecuted and vind do something to save 
 himself from them. But the woi'd he used for saved was 
 in Arabic, and may mean either to save or escape from. 
 Afterwards this same Copt was in a government office and 
 heard one Moslem inquiring of another about Ahmed, 
 what he was doing, etc. The answer was that " he was a 
 stubborn felloAv, and was just sitting in the house, some- 
 times crying and sometimes rejoicing." 
 
 When the books were sent home all the mission circle 
 wrote notes to him and put them in different books. 
 
 AVe are hoping and praying that it may all be overruled 
 yet for Ahmed's and the church's good. Certainly, as far 
 as we can see, there is no comparison between this case and 
 that of Peter, and yet the latter became a great Apostle, 
 and finally a glorious martyr foj- the Saviour he was so 
 swift to deny. 
 
 January 17th. — My last to you in reference to our Mos- 
 lem friend was closed when we felt verv anxious about
 
 228 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 him. I think I mentioned that he came to Dr. Lansing's 
 while the young ladies were up here. Afterwards he 
 called on a shopman who is one of our elders, declaring 
 himself firm, and once or twice more he came to Dr. 
 L.'s. These visits to Dr. L.'s were kept secret from our 
 members even, though of course Ahmed might have been 
 seen entering the house. Last Saturday when he was 
 there he talked a great deal and encouraged them very 
 much. Then to everyone's great surprise he came to our 
 English service. There had been a little vacation in the 
 boys' school which was just closing, so it was decided for 
 the gentlemen to write to A.'s father and ask permission 
 for him to resume his work as a teacher in the school. The 
 letter was sent Monday night last, and I suppose led to a 
 hot discussion.. The father promptly refused, insisting 
 that Ahmed should take work in the Government schools, 
 or in the Government office, in which he himself is em- 
 ployed. Ahmed as promptly refused, insisting that he 
 Avould retain his own position, and telling his father that 
 he had "forced him to do what he had done." A part of 
 this forcinr/ consisted in the father writing a recantation 
 and compelling Ahmed to transcribe it. This was the 
 paper the Viceroy told our Consul Ahmed had written of 
 " his own free will." 
 
 Next morning after the father and brothers had gone to 
 their offices, Ahmed's mother told him he had better leave, 
 that he toas in danger. So he is a second time at Dr. Lan- 
 sing's. It would appear that the mother had not given in- 
 formation of his whereabouts, as it Avas the second day be- 
 fore they came to inquire if he were at Dr. L.'s. Miss 
 Johnston writes that Ahmed is very nervous, and that they 
 all feel th9,t there is no safety for him in Egypt. Our 
 ^.orisul went i^ Shareef Pasha and asked to be allowed to
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 229 
 
 take Ahmed there to tell his story himself, but Shareef de- 
 clined the interview. You will remember he is the Min- 
 ister of State. He said " a separation would be necessary, 
 as even should his own family permit him to live as a 
 Christian in his father's house, other Moslems would not." 
 He said he would give orders that Ahmed should not be 
 molested, " but could not promise that harm would not 
 come to him." 
 
 Dr. Watson wrote us last night that there was " a bad 
 prospect for calm in Cairo now." They say their every 
 movement is closely watched, and are afraid to mention 
 names to us, or give us any but general information. 
 
 You cannot imagine how interesting the case is to us all. 
 It is Islam against Christianity. Ahmed had more than 
 usual worldly inducements to remain in the faith of his 
 fathers. In declaring himself a Christian he knew that 
 he must leave his home and all his friends, that he lost his 
 legal rights of inheritance, and, as he said himself, " all the 
 probabilities were that he would lose his life in the end." 
 If the mission were able to get him out of the country, it 
 would not seem desirable, as the next case would require 
 the same ground to be gone over. So we cannot see w'hat 
 the end will be. AVe would hope for great things if 
 Ahmed could become the evangelist of his own people ; 
 but he will not dare now to show himself without protec- 
 tion. We suppose that there must be much excitement 
 among the Moslems in Cairo, as we know there is always 
 strong sympathy between that city and Stamboul. 
 
 February 2nd. — In a letter written to Mr. Alexander 
 this week Ahmed says he is " a prisoner at Dr. L.'s house," 
 and begs to be prayed for much that he may have strength 
 given him to endure all. When the first Sabbath came he 
 declared his intention of going to church. There were
 
 230 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 many fears that he would be shot before he could reach 
 the church, as his father liad given orders for his assassina- 
 tion, Mohammed having been sent for again from Minyeh. 
 However he went over early with Dr. Watson, more or less 
 disguised — probably a dress coat and hat only, as he could 
 easily carry his tarboosh in his pocket, and so put it on 
 and appear natural in the church. There was great joy 
 among the native members ; some of them kissed him. 
 Neither in Cairo nor here have we heard of a single native 
 doubting or condemning him, even though they were so 
 slow to believe him at first. They are so accustomed to • 
 oppression, to being driven, that they really seem unable 
 to understand how one man could oppose his will to all 
 Islam with the Viceroy behind it. While Ahmed was at 
 church his mother came to brinrj him, some clothes. Not find- 
 ing him, she left them with the old Moslem bow-wab, and 
 in the afternoon sent back her servant to know if they had 
 been received. Next day she came again herself to see 
 him. What a comfort it must have been to him ! He 
 loves her very dearly, and is her favorite son. Of course 
 the father does not know what she does, but it seems to me 
 she risks a great deal. Ahmed seems to have been a gen- 
 eral favorite at home, and that may make the servants 
 willing to help a kind mistress against a severe master. 
 Last Sabbath Ahmed went to church again and went home 
 in a company of English people, without anything hap- 
 pening. But he may escape a dozen times and be taken 
 as he was before. We think he does not dare to show his 
 face either at a w'indow or in a balcony yet, but they say 
 he is a brave fellow, and no doubt he will forget some of 
 his caution after awhile. 
 
 Dr. Lansing says we can have no idea of the excite- 
 ment and exasperation which his return stirred up in
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY OIFPEN. 231 
 
 Cairo, and tliat it is impossible to foresee the entl. They 
 all think Ahmed very prudent, and some one wrote that 
 " now since they had heard all they did not blame him." 
 But it was added, "it has done us all good; Ahmed is 
 more distrustful of himself now — trusts more in God, and 
 sees better where his strength must come from." 
 
 "April 11th. — As we have mentioned Moallim Ahmed's 
 escape from Egypt in our private letters, you will doubt- 
 less be interested in hearing some of the details. 
 
 Several years ago there was a pious Scotch Earl who 
 made one or two trips up the Nile, and took great interest 
 in our mission work, always carrying Bibles in his boat 
 and making many efforts to do real missionary work. 
 This winter his son br(^ught his young bride to Egypt, both 
 of them manifesting (piite as much interest in missions as 
 their distinguished father and mother. They visited the 
 mission in Cairo and Osiout, and took books and a colpor- 
 teur with them from the latter place. The first of March, 
 as they returned down the river, they again stopped in 
 Osiout to place in the l)oys' school four slaves whom they 
 had bought from a slave dealer, or rather, as Lady Aber- 
 deen said, "they gave a compensation " for them. Three 
 of them are small, and these three they asked Dr. Hogg 
 to baptize, Lord and Lady Aberdeen standing as sponsors 
 for them. The boys are to be educated, and then Lord A. 
 hopes they will return to Soudan as missionaries to their 
 own people. 
 
 You will see from these things how differently this 
 young nobleman and his beautiful countess have behaved 
 on their " Nile trip" from most travelers — seeming obliv- 
 ious of themselves, and only endeavoring to find out how 
 to do good. Soon after they left Osiout, the annual meet- 
 ing of the Association met there. Drs. Lansing and Wat-
 
 232 LIFE AND LETTEES OF . 
 
 son of course wished to attend, but they were almost 
 afraid to leave Ahmed behind, and they did not dare to 
 take him with them. Their perplexity became known to 
 Ahmed's family, and suspicious inquiries began to be made 
 whether he was going or not. He remained however. 
 Then it soon became evident that the old Moslem bow-wab 
 was not bringing in the Osiout mail until twenty-four 
 hours after it was due. So, as it was the custom for some 
 of the missionaries to take the key of the post-office box 
 Saturday night, Miss Johnson resolved to test the matter. 
 Monday morning early she Avent herself and found no 
 letters in the box, when she knew they should be there. 
 She returned and sent the old servant. He suspected 
 nothing, and came back immediately with letters — those 
 from Drs. L. and W., in Osiout, a2:>pearing to have been 
 opened. Of course nuich anxiety was felt, and besides no 
 answer came from the wealthy Scotchman to whom appli- 
 cation had been made for Ahmed's support in case Dr. W. 
 could succeed in getting him out of Egypt. Just at this 
 time, however, came a letter from Lord and Lady Aber- 
 deen, saying that as they were coming down the Nile they 
 had read an account of Ahmed's case in the London Time.s, 
 and that if they could assist in any way it would give 
 them great pleasure. The winds were favorable and they 
 soon arrived in Cairo. The ladies of the mission laid the 
 case before them, and Lord A. went immediately to the 
 English and American Consuls. The former said there 
 was great danger of Ahmed's assassination, and the latter 
 said it would be a great relief to liim when Ahmed was 
 out of the country. Accordingly, Mr. Vivian, the Eng- 
 lish Consul, proceeded to procure passports for " Lord 
 and Lady Aberdeen with their two men servants," for one 
 of which Ahmed passed. None of us knew how the pass-
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY (iHFEX. 233 
 
 port was to be secured, nnd noJtlier, I think, was there 
 subterfuge on Lord A.'s part, as he met the Viceroy and 
 told him what he was going to do. The English Consul 
 has been able to influence the Government in several cases 
 where our own could do nothing, the Viceroy seeming to 
 be anxious to avoid difficulties with England. When all 
 Avas arranged Lord A. engaged rooms down here at a quiet 
 hotel, and left Cairo on a night express. When they left 
 the carriage in Cairo at the station Lord A. walked on 
 one side of Ahmed and the countess on the other. 8he 
 said next day, " I felt very nervous." The passports wei"e 
 sent down to the English Consul here, who had all neces- 
 sary arrangements comjileted. By ten o'clock next morn- 
 ing the party were all on board the steamer. Mr. Giffeu 
 met them at the hotel and Avent on board with them. Ah- 
 med, he said, looked very serious until they were on the 
 steamer, then his spirits seemed to rise. Naturally he 
 wished to go on deck with the others, but the Consul sent 
 him below innnediately. Lady Aberdeen expressed her- 
 self as much pleased with his manners and bearing, and 
 said it was their intention to send him on directly to Lord 
 Polworth, her brother-in-law, in care of their English 
 servant, while they themselves would stop awhile in Italy. 
 Lord A. said this Lord Polworth was one of the most 
 deeply pious men in Scotland, and that Ahmed could not 
 be surrounded by better influences. Then when they 
 reach home themselves they are going to send him to the 
 university at which Lord A. graduated, and one of the 
 Professors of which is a very intimate friend of Lady 
 Aberdeen. So the whole thing worked out so beautifully 
 and so unexpectedly, and when Dr. Watson got back Ahmed 
 was, I suppose, at Brindisi. His father said once that 
 Ahmed wasn't a Christian at heart — that he wasn't really
 
 234 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 changed, that it wa^ just those cunning American chowa- 
 gat (gentlemen) who had imposed upon him. I wonder 
 how he enjoyed it when he learned that the American 
 sittat (ladies) had succeeded in spiriting Ahmed away to 
 Scotland before he could find it out, and without any help 
 from either of the chowagat. 
 
 He wrote to his family — beautifvil letters — and was so 
 very anxious to have seen his mother, but he did not dare 
 communicate with her. Though a brave, manly fellow, 
 he had a good many genuine crie/^ about leaving all for so 
 long, and was very sad and quiet when he took leave, but 
 he wrote from the hotel here to jNIrs. Lansing a most affec- 
 tionate letter, and also wrote from Brindisi. They reached 
 there on the fifth day, Ahmed having been terribly sea- 
 sick all the way. He said very soberly that " he never 
 expected to see land again." Everybody laughs at sea- 
 sickness, and yet who can ever forget the misery of it ? 
 No doubt the poor fiellow suffered real agony in those five 
 long days, and very likely he would wonder if he might 
 not just as well have stayed and " died in the land of 
 Egypt." 
 
 December 20th. — Dr. AVatson and family have recently 
 arrived from America. They spent a few weeks in Scot- 
 land — their native land, and Avhile there, were invited to 
 visit Lord Aberdeen. They also saw Moallim Ahmed, 
 who had entered the LTniversity of Edinburgh. Dr. Wat- 
 son says " he is holding fast to his good profession and 
 making many friends among the sincere lovers of our 
 Lord Jesus in Scotland." Lord Aberdeen pays his board- 
 ing bills and gives him forty dollars quarterly for books 
 and clothing. Ahmed thinks this very liberal and write* 
 very cheerfully and happily, except that he so longs to 
 hear fi-om his family. He writes to them frequently —
 
 MRS. MARY f;AT>T,OAVAT (ilFFEX. 235 
 
 beautiful, touching letters, but they give him not a word 
 in reply. The mission in Cairo can get no news of them 
 and do not dare to visit them. When Ahmed left them 
 first to come to Dr. Lansing's they made "a mourning" 
 for him and bewailed him as dead, and so they no doubt 
 now regard him. He is very affectionate in his disposi- 
 tion, and few of us ])erhaps can estimate the trial it is to 
 him never even to see the handwriting of those he loves 
 so dearly." 
 
 Ahmed is still supported by Lord and Lady Aberdeen, 
 and is in the University at Edinburgh. In addition to the 
 regular literary course, he is studying medicine. " Jt was 
 his desire to be a minister, but Lord and Lady Aberdeen 
 urged him strongly to be a physician, thinking that in this 
 Avay he would be more acceptable among his countrymen, 
 in case he returns to Cairo." He is very lughly esteemed 
 by his acquaintances in Edinburgh, and his progress in 
 University studied shoAvs him to be possessed of decided 
 mental powers. His future is largely in other hands than 
 his own, but " it has always been his desire, as well as the 
 hope of those who support him, that some day he may be 
 a strong Christian worker, in Egypt at least, and if possi- 
 ble, among his kindred who are, as he was, following the 
 " False Prophet." 
 
 Heretofore one of the most discouraging features of 
 mission work in Egypt — and indeed in every Moham- 
 medan country — was the unapproachableness of the Mos- 
 lem element. In the wall of exclusiveness and fanaticism 
 Avhich the Moslems have built around themselves, the ut- 
 most efforts of the missionaries could make no appreciable 
 breach. 
 
 But recent advices from Egypt assure us that the door 
 to the Moslem world is gradually opening — all the indica-
 
 236 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 tions show that the bars and bolts that have held it so 
 firmly are Aveakening. The Sultan at Constantinople seems 
 to feel this and is putting forth an effort to strengthen 
 the props and bars, but the missionaries believe that he 
 will fail, and that the door will give way in spite of him. 
 The opening may not be like the bursting of a door before 
 a giant stroke, but more like the letting out of waters, 
 through a very small opening in a dyke, scarcely to be 
 noticed at first, but in the end irresistible. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 HEAT — ITS INTENSITY — OPHTHALMIA — HINDRANCE TO 
 
 MISSION WORK. 
 
 The two physical drawbacks which operated most in 
 hindering Mrs. GifiSen in her labors, was the mte)ise heat, 
 and the prevalence of long-continued and acute attacks of 
 Ophthalmia. The one prostrated and enervated, and the 
 other often shut her up, a close prisoner, for weeks. When 
 we come to add up the hindrances and difficulties under 
 which mission labor is prosecuted in Egypt, the aggregate 
 makes a large sum, and we often wonder that the devoted 
 laborers in that land have patience and faith enough to 
 sustain them in their trying position. 
 
 When Mrs. Giffen was transferred to Asyoot (Osiout) she 
 says : 
 
 " There was but one vacant house in Osiout in which we 
 felt we could live, and it was so small and inconvenient 
 and so very hot that we could not reconcile ourselves to
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 237 
 
 attempt living in it. One of the rooms has four windows, 
 but tlie other has none, except little places near the ceil- 
 ing which cannot be opened, the door being the only way 
 -«f admitting air. Dooi's and windows here are always 
 closed by eleven o'clock in summer, and must remain so 
 until after sundown, as the hot air, if permitted to enter, 
 would be almost unendurable. The court walls keep out 
 the air from us, and we feel as if we could not breathe. 
 So we have our breakfast and tea on the })orch and sleep 
 on the roof Last week, and the preceding one also, the 
 heat was really terrible. The gentlemen had to close their 
 eyes riding over to school, and at night they said their 
 nostrils smarted still from the burning. In the coolest, 
 closed room up stairs the thermometer was ninety-eight de- 
 grees during the afternoon, and when we left for the roof 
 at ten o'clock it was nliiety-five degrees. No doubt you 
 often have it as high as that, but you do not have this dry 
 air. There is scarcely any sensible perspiration, and you 
 feel all the time as if you were being roasted in an oven. 
 This throws you into a nervous, feverish condition, which 
 makes you both weak and irritable and unfits you for any 
 kind of work." 
 
 Yet small, hot, inconvenient as this house was, Mr. Gif- 
 fen was, from the simple fact that there was no better to be 
 had in the city, forced to live in it until a few months before 
 Mrs, GifTen's death. The air and the surroundings were 
 so bad that they lived in it at a continual risk of their 
 lives. 
 
 "August 4th. — We are still exhorting ourselves to pa- 
 tience in the heat. Between five and six o'clock we went 
 over to church and found the air so hot that I tried to hold 
 my breath as long at a time as I could until we got in the 
 house. I have no doubt that the thermometer would have
 
 238 LIFE AKD LETTERS OP 
 
 gone up to one hundred and forty in the street. It has 
 been one hundred and thirty in our court, its high walls 
 shutting out the burning air from the desert which makes 
 the streets so scorching. The walls of our houses are built 
 with a view to these winds. Our window sills are about 
 two feet deep, so that when our windows are closed during " 
 the day there is a great difference between the inside and 
 outside temperature. But still when the thermometer 
 stands at ninety-five or ninety-eight in these closed, dark- 
 ened rooms it is very hard indeed to endure the still, dry, 
 burning heat from ten in the morning until eight or nine 
 at night. 
 
 The rise in the river has been so rapid that as it spreads 
 over the hot ground cracked and broken with a two years' 
 thirst, the air is just laden with a hot vapor which keeps 
 us from sleeping anywhei-e and robs us of almost all com- 
 fort. ' The world is like fire,' is on every lady's tongue, 
 and the natives declare that such heat was never felt here 
 before. I have been wandering about everywhere trying 
 to find a place to sleep^ever since I came. The first night or 
 two I was afraid to go to the roof on account of ophthalmia. 
 I carried my mattress about from place to place almost 
 every night, and at last we Avere driven to the roof. Last 
 night there was a high wind from the desert when we went 
 up, but by dispensing with the net we could sleep. It grew 
 higher and hotter, however, and in an hour or two we felt 
 that we must not expose our eyes to it whether we slept or 
 not. So we came down, and going back a little later I 
 found a real simoon blowing. The stars, before so bright, 
 Avere now entirely obscured, and the darkness, instead of 
 being black, seemed to be grey. It produced a singular 
 sensation, while the skin and eyes seemed to dry up in the 
 fierce heat. The rest of the night I spent in fanning Bruce
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 239 
 
 and trying to quench my thirst. Everything in the house 
 felt just as if a fire had been burning under it, and the 
 sand and dust drifted in everywhere. At dawn I felt so 
 weary that I thought I must find soniewliere to sleep, so 
 went back to the roof and found the hot southern wind 
 still, and I threw myself on a straw mat on one of the 
 bedsteads, but two or three minutes drove me from there. 
 Coming down into Mr. Alexander's house, I tried all the 
 unoccu])ied corners, but everywhere there was nothing but 
 heat, heat, heat." 
 
 A w'eek later she writes : 
 
 " It is still extremely hot. Since my last we have had 
 another terrible simoon. We were awakened at dawn by 
 a strange burning wind. Looking South we could see the 
 sand clouds coming, and as w^e were on the roof we made 
 haste to get down. The storm lasted about two hours, I 
 think, the air being yellow — the color of desert sands. Of 
 course the heat was great, indeed for a Aveek it was almost 
 a burden to live. In Dr. Hogg's house the thermometer 
 was from one hundred degrees to one hundred and twelve 
 degrees all the time. During the recent great heat the 
 water was going over on the eastern shore where there was 
 none at all last year, and in consequence the weather was 
 such as the natives say never was hwwii here before. In 
 the house of an Italian near us, the mother died one day 
 and the father the next, from no known cause except heat. 
 Arabs also died in tlie same way. This has been hereto- 
 fore unheard of 
 
 We have been trying very hard to find a house in which 
 we could be comfortable. There are, perhaps, a dozen /?ie 
 houses in Osiout, but the remaining thousands are models 
 only of darkness, dirt and small rooms." 
 
 " August 29th. — The last week has been cooler, the ther- 
 mometer being from ninety-one degrees to ninety-three de-
 
 240 LIFE AXD LETTERS OF 
 
 grees in the closed room. Yesterday I put it out in the 
 porch at four o'clock in the afternoon when the sun had 
 disappeared from that side of the house entirely, and the 
 mercury ran up to one hundred and fifteen degrees. To- 
 day, as it is Saturday, I went to the house of one of our 
 rich men who bought a piano for his daughter and doesn't 
 know what to do with it, and though I went early, the 
 heat was very oppressive. If it were not that we are mis- 
 sionaries, and realize what we have come here for, it would 
 be venj hard to stay. We have almost no fruit, so far ; no 
 vegetables scarcely, and cannot have milk and butter un- 
 til clover comes ; that is, we cannot drink the milk or 
 make butter. 
 
 We have all been sick, except Mr. Alexander ; and the 
 Moslem doctor says it is from sleeping on the roof. So we 
 have been trying to sleep down stairs ; but it is poor suc- 
 cess. 1 think I have never been so discouraged since we 
 have been here. The summers are so long, and when we 
 cannot sleep at night we have so little energy left for the 
 long, hot day. 
 
 Our house is very much against us. In this country it 
 is necessity to have the air from the North in summer, and 
 to have sunshine in winter. We cannot get either." 
 
 " April 26th. — This is Saturday, and a long, dreary, op- 
 pressive one it has been. The " South wind," which 
 brought heat long ago, brings it still. It has blown almost 
 like a storm all day, and the air has been like " the breath 
 of a furnace." There is an open jDassage from our sitting 
 room to the dining room and here the thermometer went 
 up to one hundred and eighteen degrees. We shut our- 
 selves in the little sitting and bed room by eight o'clock in 
 the morning and all are reading, writing and other work 
 must be done in comparative darkness, very trying to weak
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEX. 241 
 
 eyes. Once this afternoon we were startled by a loud, sud- 
 den report, as if a stone had been thrown in the room. 
 On examination we found it was the end of my bureau — 
 which had burst from top to bottom for the third time — 
 the hot winds of A])ril being harder on furniture than the 
 steady heat of summer. These winds prevail for fifty days, 
 but every fourth day is usually cool — sometimes chilly, and 
 these constant changes produce much sickness. Mr. G. 
 was greatly oppressed with the heat to-day and had neither 
 strength or energy to do anything." 
 
 " August 20t]i. — We have been back in our j)laces hard at 
 work for the last ten days. It was exceedingly " uphill " 
 work the first four or five days. The journey here from 
 Cairo was the liardest I ever experienced. It was very 
 hot and you can form no idea of the dust. The others 
 would run down to the canal at almost every station and 
 wash their heads and faces, but my head ached so that I 
 was content not to move. You never saw so dirty a house 
 as we had to come into just at night, without supper or 
 drinkable water. But worst of all we tossed through the 
 whole night with almost no rest. The hot rare atmosphere 
 made us itch and sting so that sleep was almost impossible 
 even outside the house. There had been very little real 
 hot weather until that day and the natives declare we 
 " brought the heat." The nights were worse than the days, 
 we got up in the morning with a feeling that we could not 
 live here. But such things happily do not last always." 
 
 If the intense heat experienced is a serious obstacle to 
 effective work, ophthalmia, in its varied forms, is far more 
 so. Happily in this favored country we know little of 
 this Eastern scourge. All other causes combined have not 
 done so nuich to drive faithful missionaries from Egypt 
 and from mission work, and to disable them for life, as
 
 242 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 this dreaded disease. Mrs. Giffen's case proved no excep- 
 tion. Her experience in this particular is recorded in these 
 words : 
 
 " About two weeks ago a violent eruption broke out on 
 Bruce's face and soon entered his eyes, which, with the 
 exception of tliree days, had already been sore for seven 
 months. It became quite alarming, and as I was just re- 
 covering from another and more acute attack of ophthalmia, 
 and able to do nothing either in the house or out of it, we 
 decided that I had better take Bruce to Dr. Grant in 
 Cairo. He pronounced the eruption contagious, and most 
 probably caused by some diseased native having touched 
 him. Our house is in the midst of a low class of people, 
 and he may readily have come in contact with some one 
 of the hundreds of such persons who are every day to be 
 seen in the streets. 
 
 Of course with such a disease I could not ask any one 
 else to come in contact with Bruce, and I was too weak to 
 take care of him night and day. Neither could I apply 
 the medicine to his face and eyes alone. So I telegraphed 
 Mr. Giffen to meet me in Ramie, and started down the 
 second day after my arrival in Cairo. Bruce had taken 
 some breakfast, but could not open his eyes. I put a large 
 sunbonnet on him, and a light shawl over that when in 
 the light. It was a ride of seven hours, and I have not 
 often s^^ent more anxious ones. The fever rose again and 
 his restlessness became extreme ; I could not keep his face 
 covered, and it was l)leeding profusely. The car was 
 crowded with not very nice people, and everybody stared 
 so at the sore face and little blind eyes. The tension of the 
 last hour or two was extreme. I had besides lost a good 
 deal of sleep and was greatly fatigued. But when I went 
 into the waiting room at the Ramie station, and closed all
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY (JIFFEN. 243 
 
 the blinds, after a while the little man opened his eyes and 
 sat on the divan wliile I took lunch and rested myself, f 
 think one who has not nursed a child blind from ophthalmia 
 — that is unable to open its eyes — cannot guess how very 
 pitiful a sight it is. When Bruce was four months old he 
 had ophthalmia very severely. Both eyes were swollen 
 until the lids shone like glass at night. Every fifteen 
 minutes they had to be pulled apart to allow the discharge 
 to come out, and twice a day the lids were turned entirely 
 inside out and brn-^hed with nitrate of silver and a solution 
 of salt. But the eyeballs conld not be seen. This was 
 here in Kamle when Mr. Giffen was up the Nile. I had 
 never seen such a case, did not know what to do, and could 
 not get the doctor when I sent for him. So at a venture I 
 got Mr. A. to help me apply a great ugly leech to each 
 eye lid. The doctor approved it when he came, and next 
 day turned out the lids and scarified them. The blood 
 streamed over the little face and I never can forget how his 
 lips quivered. After another day I could detect a slight 
 quivering of the lids as if he were trying to ojien them, 
 and at twilight of the sixth day I could see that the lids 
 were just ])arted. But I had to turn him over on his face 
 in a dark room to enable him to do this. It is very pain- 
 ful to lie on the back in ophthalmia, pcrha})s more so to 
 grown people than to children. In my last attack during 
 the meeting of Presbytery I could not lie down one night 
 for four or five hours, and the hot water from my eyes 
 greatly irritated my face. One eyel)all felt as if a nail 
 were through it, and the least ray of light seemed unen- 
 durable. Drs. Lansing and Watson, who were with us at 
 the time, charge the greater part of the trouble to our 
 house, and say that if ophthalmia of that kind is allowed 
 to continue it cannot be cured in the Egyptian climate."
 
 244 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 In the last year of her life, even in Italy, Mrs. Giften suf- 
 fered severely from this cause. She was attacked on the jour - 
 ney to Torre Pellice, and tells us of her sufferings in these 
 words : 
 
 " I walked slowly and not very far, having my eyes well 
 protected with a large drooping hat, but before I got back 
 I felt one of them burn a little. Monday morning after 
 we started to Pompeii, Mr. Giffen remarked that the inflam- 
 mation had increased a little, but as we were not in Egypt 
 we did not think of it amounting to anything. I wore a 
 double veil however in Pompeii, besides having an um- 
 brella, and when we started back Mr. G. said he was glad 
 to see that it was no worse. However, about the time we 
 reached Naples it began to feel uncomfortable but it did 
 not amount to a pain. Still before we finished dinner I 
 could scarcely hold it open, the veins in my temple began 
 to swell, the temple to throb, and my eye to burn. By 
 the middle of the afternoon I was almost wild with 
 pain and nervousness, which is part of the disease. I 
 really wished to get up and stamp the floor. It would 
 have been a real satisfaction to have torn things to atoms, 
 in fact to have just abandoned myself to the wild feel- 
 ing which completely possessed me. Mr. G. had gone to 
 take our tickets to Genoa, and though Bruce and Lulu 
 were as good as other children would be shut up in a 
 dark room and left to amuse themselves, yet I thought I 
 could not endure the noise they made until their papa 
 Avould get back. I grew steadily worse until eight o'clock 
 when Mr. G. began giving me chlorodyne. Dr. Mackie 
 had told him to use it when I had a severe attack of oph- 
 thalmia. But the dose the doctor prescribed had no per- 
 ceptible effect. I waited an hour and took more, another 
 hour and took more, but did not get relief until about
 
 MRS. MAIIY (iAl.I.OWAY (ilFFEN. 245 
 
 midnight. Before inorniug I became very sick from the 
 chlorodyiie, the effect being almost exactly the same as 
 sea-sickness. AVe had Avished to leave at eight o'clock 
 but I could not hold up my head, and none of our things 
 had been packed. We had not brought a trunk and the 
 valises require so much more time and care. So Mr. G. 
 did the best he could Avith tli^i and the children, in the 
 dark room, and got all ready to go by a boat at noon. I 
 contrived to dress after a fashion, tied a handkerchief over 
 my eyes, put a shawl over my hat and felt my way down 
 stairs by the railing." 
 
 AVhen Naples was reached she w^as better, and says : 
 
 " Before leaving the Custom House I had been able to 
 take the shawl off" my head, and I walked to the station 
 with only my veil over my eyes. No one knows it until 
 he has experienced it, how pleasant it is to pull off ban- 
 dages and look freely at objects around you, after an 
 attack of ophthalmia, and all this day I could feel my eye 
 growing stronger every hour, and the contraction in that 
 side of my face gradually relaxing." 
 
 A letter of inquiry addressed to Mr. Giff'en in regard to 
 the origin and effects of ophthalmia, elicited the following 
 reply : " It is the Egyptian hydra — a many-formed evil 
 to which the eyes are subject in this country. I have 
 never seen any one book that describes all the forms even 
 of the first attack, and then that which has one form at 
 first may soon change — if not cured will certainly change 
 — and finally assume some chronic form ; it may be of 
 simple granulations on the inner surface of the lids; it 
 may be a cataract, opacity, or total blindness," 
 
 The real cause of sore eyes in Egypt is a mystery. The 
 cause, whatever it be, is greatly aided by the dirt, squalor, 
 wretchedness and want in which the people live, although
 
 246 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 no amount of cleanliness and careful living can be a com- 
 plete safeguard against the disease. 
 
 Some of the missionaries have suffered greatly from 
 ophthalmia, others with apparently no better general 
 health, or more rugged constitutions have suffered none at 
 all. Almost all children suffer more or less from it. That 
 it is a hindrance to mission work is apparent when we 
 think of the precious time and strength we Avaste in 
 caring for our own weak eyes and those of our chil- 
 dren ; and that it has been the main cause that has sent 
 out of the field nearly all the missionaries that have re- 
 tired from the work in Egypt. It is the cause of most 
 of the blindness seen among the native school-teachers, 
 and the vast number of beggars mentioned by all travel- 
 ers who have Avritten about Egypt. You may wonder 
 why I mention school-teachers with the miserable blind 
 beggars. Simply because if a poor person becomes blind 
 he has been shut up to the alternative of entering one of 
 these classes. If he is bright, and has opportunities for 
 learning by hearing some one read, then he may commit 
 ])art of the New Testament, if a Christian ; or of the Ko- 
 ran, if a Moslem, and thus earns a few piasters, or a few 
 loaves of bread, or a bushel of grain per month teaching 
 school. Until we began to send out teachers from our 
 college the blind teacher was the onlv one known in the 
 schools of Upper Egypt. The unfortunate victim of 
 blindness who has neither opportunity to learn, nor friends 
 to support him, must go into the streets and beg." 
 
 A beggar — and 1)1 ind — and upon the streets of Asyoot 
 — could human wretchedness be more deep ? Verily there 
 is Aveighty obligation upon the people of this land in re- 
 gard to their unfortunate brethren in such lands as Egypt.
 
 MRP. :MARY GALI/nVAY OIFFEX. 247 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 HER father's death. 
 
 Rev. Jonatluni Galloway died, of pneumonia, at his 
 home, in Due We^t, on ord of jMarcli, 1871). When Mr;*. 
 Gitfen was informed of the tact she wrote to her sister as 
 follows : 
 
 " Your long letter about Pa came last week, and I felt 
 sure I would hear again Wednesday night, but only the 
 paper came. Still I hope I may hear to-night. . . . 
 How hard it must have been. But I infer you were all 
 reconciled to it, and could in some measure rejoice that a 
 long life of suffering and much anxiety was over, to begin 
 in the world of rest and glory. It was very hard, at iirst, 
 for me to imagine the house wdthout him. If I tried to 
 see you in my mind, he was sitting, at the table, or by the 
 fire, or out on the steps, and especially it seemed so easy to 
 see him and INIa going t(j church together. It seemed hard 
 to me, to think that you had been without him a whole 
 month, and I did not know. But I do not feel the separa- 
 tion as you do. When I left home, I think my feelings 
 were just of the natm-e of death — the same in kind what- 
 ever they may have lacked in degree, and now Pa does not 
 seem any further from me than before. I do not think of 
 him as buried, but always as in heaven, and sometimes I 
 think of him and the ones who went before, much as I do 
 of you ; and when I lead about lieaven it is like news from 
 home. 
 
 I do not grieve for myself, but it does pain me to think 
 of you — to think how the large circle is melting away, and 
 how lonely you will be this summer. But Pa's anxieties
 
 248 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 and sufferings are over and he is at rest now. I think I 
 rejoice more in that than anything else. I know he would 
 not feel about me as he would have done, had he died the 
 winterl wasinMansoora, forlamnotalonenow. * * * * 
 The night I got your letter I could not sleep. It seemed 
 to me I was with you in the parlor where he was dying, 
 and that I saw it all. It stays too in my mind and seems 
 a real thing. How long was it before he died that he said 
 he was going to Sarah ? — [Sarah, Mrs. Giifen's little sister, 
 who died twenty years before, when she was six years old, 
 and to whom her father was ardently attached. — Ed.] 
 
 I wonder if consciousness remained after the great suf- 
 fering was passed ? Sometimes I have thought it would be 
 just like going to sleep. * * * * i^ seems hard that 
 I could not be with you, and sometimes I feel hard-hearted 
 that I do not feel deeper grief, but I cannot sorrow for Pa. 
 He had had a long and useful life. I am sure he did not 
 live in vain. He was meek — as meek as that article in the 
 paper makes him, but he was a man of far more force of 
 character than was shown there. I think he was the most 
 self-sacrificing man I ever knew. I am sure his first wish 
 was for us, that we might serve and glorify God, and I 
 doubt not we have a rich legacy left us and our children in 
 the prayers he offered for us." 
 
 In a letter to the writer referring to the same event she 
 says : *' If I could only have known at the time I would 
 feel so differently. It seems so hard to go back and try to 
 go through such sad scenes, when all has been so long over, 
 and to think that our friends die when we are at school or 
 asleep. Dr. Boyce wrote me the night Pa was buried — how 
 terrible it seems to write those words — -and yet I do 
 not think often of him as in the grave. How much more 
 of a reality it gives to heaven to think that our friends are
 
 MRR. l\r.VT;Y OAI.T.OWAY OTFFKX. 249 
 
 there. It seems to nie now that I have two homes, that Ma 
 is with one part, and Pa with the other, and each I hope 
 has three of" us children with them ; and the other three 
 of us are .w scattered. [ remember once feeling very sad 
 and desolate, very much oppressed in the English ceme- 
 tery in Alexandria. AVe had gone there to see the graves 
 of Mr. and Mrs. C'nrry — two of our missicmaries — and I 
 wondered who of the rest of us would lie there. =f= * * 
 " How strange it seems that it will soon be two years since 
 Pa went away. How different they have been to him from 
 what they have been to you. Is it not a blessed thouijht 
 that he has notsuffered in all that you have gone through ^ " 
 **'*'" This is the anniversary of Pa's death. Two 
 years ! Well, I am sure he has been made ' perfectly blessed 
 in the full enjoyment of God,' and I hope he knows about 
 us, and loves us yet, without feeling any soi-i'ow in what 
 befalls us." 
 
 Not many months after this Mrs. Giffen almost expe- 
 rienced another great sorrow. Her little daughter Lulu 
 was seized with fever and brought to the verge of the 
 grave. To her sister Mrs. Giffen writes : " We have been 
 through a dark valley with her this week. We thought 
 she had died in my arms on last Tuesday night, when I 
 supposed she was sleeping. Her face was cold and waxen- 
 looking, there was no pulse, no movement of the chest, no 
 sign of life, and we were sure our little darling had been 
 taken from us. How fearful it seemed, to sit there with 
 our little dead baby between us. Our minds w^ere in such 
 awful confusion that it was hard to feel anything else than 
 our great pain. I begged Mr. Giffen to let us look at her 
 as long as we could keep her in our arms before she would 
 be taken away to be made ready for her last resting place. 
 In doing this we moved her and she opened her eyes. It
 
 250 LIFE AXD LETTERS OF 
 
 was just like the dead returning to life. We knelt down 
 beside her and prayed for the little life to be s})ared us if 
 it were God's will, and then when the others came Dr. 
 Hogg made a very solemn affecting prayer for us. We 
 watched all night fearing the little life might go any mo- 
 Jiient, But by the next day she was better, and we packed 
 up a few things, put her on a pillow and came to Dr. 
 Hogg's, for it seemed suicidal to stay in that wretched air. 
 Sometimes now when I take my little dear in my arms it 
 seems as if she had come back to us from heaven. That 
 night when we had no hope, my human heart would keep 
 thinking about her going to Pa — one more little dear one 
 to be with him there. It seemed so natural to think that 
 our Saviour would take her to those so dear to us. But 
 now I hope she is spared to us to train for heaven, when- 
 ever it shall be His will to take her." 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 ASYOOT COLLEGE — NEGOTIATIONS — PPvESEXT PROSPECTS. 
 
 " I mentioned some time since Mv. GiflTen's hurried re- 
 turn here to confer with Dr. Hogg about the purchase of 
 a site for the college. They were not well pleased, ])ut the 
 owner of the land made them a very fair offer of positions 
 for the two schools in the tract which he was reported to 
 have just purchased. And after a good deal of conference 
 and reflection it was about agreed to accept the offer. 
 Just then it came to light that there had been no purchase 
 and that Chowai^a AVeesa had no titles to the land from
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY ftlFPEK. 251 
 
 the government and might never get any ! One of the 
 Bashas had been sent up here after Rivers Wilson was 
 dismissed " to get money." Chowaga Weesa had agreed 
 with him as to the terms of the sale, but the Basha had 
 been recalled by rumors of abdication before the sale of 
 the land was completed. Of course Chowega Weesa still 
 hoped to secure the ])roperty, but being an Oriental he 
 would let Dr. Hogg and Mr. Giffen hurry here and would 
 spend ten days waiting on his movements, and discussing 
 what he would give or what they would take before he 
 would say that he had no land to sell them. Of course it 
 was a disappointment, but missionaries have to get accus- 
 tomed to such things. 
 
 When all this failed to come to anything Weesa told 
 them there was a nice garden in the city which he could 
 buy for them, but he thought the owner would ask $2,500 
 for the seven acres. The situation is very desirable, but 
 the gentlemen scarcely felt like making such an offer. 
 Since then it appears that it might be bought for less and 
 Mr. G. is very anxious to hasten the business. The school 
 building now in use is greatly overcroAvded and is 
 in danger of falling down in any high wind. But 
 nothing can be done except through these slow riatives. 
 Nobody will sell to us because we are Protestants — or 
 rather because we represent and act for the sect. So the 
 gentlemen have even to look at a jnece of ground secretly. 
 Rich Copts will run up land thousands of jioiinds to keep 
 us from getting it for mmion liurposes. Individually they 
 probably would not interfere with us." 
 
 "April 20th. — Our examinations came of the week before 
 the meeting of the Association. This gave a fresh oppor- 
 tunity to agitate the question of a site for the college. 
 Among others Dr. Hogg spoke of the matter to the Moslem
 
 252 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 physician up there. A few days subsequently this 
 man met Mr. Alexander and told him he had been in con- 
 versation with a certain Khowaga Hanna who owned part 
 of the Garden near the station and Avho would sell it to 
 the mission for the schools. On speaking to Dr. Hogg he 
 exclaimed : " Why that is the very man that we supposed 
 would do everything to defeat us ! " This Garden — as 
 they say here — is a large palm grove, and is owned by a 
 great many persons in bits of a fourth or half an acre. 
 The consent of several families had therefore to be ob- 
 tained before land enough could be benight. Two Avomen 
 especially had to be coddled into the matter. Their shares 
 were parts of their inheritance, and as such, were far more 
 valuable than the same amount of land " bought with 
 money." You remember Naboth was unwilling either to 
 exchange his vineyard for a l^etter one or to sell it for 
 money — though it was a king who desired to possess it. 
 " Should I give the inheritance of my father unto thee ? " 
 Well, NaI)oth's feelings and principles are those of every 
 rich old family in Asyoot and the consequence is that the 
 mission has been ten years trying to buy ground for the 
 schools which educate the children of almost all these 
 families. A few years ago Khowaga Weesa — who is from 
 a rich new family, that is a "self-made " man as we would 
 say — persuaded the husbands of the two Avomen referred 
 to above, to sell him their shares of this Garden and had 
 actually paid down the money when the women heard of 
 it and compelled their hiisbands to rescind the contracts. 
 " Must we women put on the mantaloon (pantaloons) and 
 maintain the honor of our houses! Sell our inheritance to 
 a man who has made all he has ! Has he grown so rich 
 and we become so poor that he can buy and Ave need to sell ! 
 Never ! '' Selling to the mission, however, is a little dif-
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 253 
 
 ferent from selling to individuals. They know that it is 
 not for ourselves, that it is for a religious use. There is 
 therefore no shame in selling to us, only it is selling land, 
 and people in Asyoot would almost as soon sell their chil- 
 dren. No further results were obtained during the meet- 
 ing and the members all settled down into the belief that 
 the college would have to be taken to some other town." 
 
 After months of weary waiting and fruitless negotia- 
 tions, she writes : 
 
 " No advance has been made in the matter of the Gar- 
 den. Even our own members, who volunteei'ed to do the 
 buying, are evidently working against us, to facilitate 
 their own purchases. The greed for laud in Asyoot ex- 
 ceeds anything I ever heard of. AVhat we have bought is 
 not sufficient and is yet undivided — that is, the " shares " 
 in the Garden are not yet located so that each owner can 
 say this, or this is my part. We hoped to be able to buy 
 more and then to exchange one piece for another outside 
 the Garden, more desirable for the front of the lot, but 
 one difficulty after another has been thrown in the way, 
 until the feeling is becoming very strong that we will be 
 compelled to sell what we have and go to some other town. 
 The rich men of Asyoot do not want us to leave, and do 
 not believe that we will. The college, if built near the 
 railroad station, wjould greatly increase the value of the 
 property of many of them, both Copts and Moslems, and 
 besides they know that they would be compelled to send 
 their children from home to be educated if we left Asyoot. 
 But we have waited and waited for ten years nearly, and 
 they think we will continue to wait until they get as much 
 land as they wish for themselves. 
 
 At present the gentlemen are trying to negotiate with 
 the Government for another Garden. If we could get
 
 254 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 that, what we now have could be sokl. After a month 
 Dr. Hogg will return to Asyoot and then I hope we can 
 all unite in special prayer for guidance and direction in 
 this matter. 
 
 October 26th. — Wednesday and Thursday nights of this 
 we had a concert of prayer with reference to ' the site for 
 the college. We bought land in good faith and paid for 
 it. But those who sold it now refuse to divide the gar- 
 den, and give the amount for which we have paid — that is 
 they won't agree to anything we propose. They say " it 
 is not their custom" to be in a hurry about parting with 
 land. The influential one among these men is the old 
 uncle of that little Frooza who married Khowaga Wasif 's 
 nephew last winter. And his greed for land is something 
 amazing. Our gentlemen cannot get these men to meet 
 them except for Kh. AVasif to send for them to come to 
 his house. Then one will come, and another send word 
 that he is sick and another busy, etc., etc. And even 
 when they do come they just sit and count strings of beads 
 or smoke in your face. So we thought we would all meet 
 and lay the matter before the Lord, beseeching him to 
 show us why he had a controversy with us, and to shoAV us 
 plainly ^vhat he Avould have us do. Our meetings were 
 solemn and we tried to empty ourselves, and to plead with 
 our Heavenly Father to guide us. It really does seem 
 sometimes that every indication of Providence is that we 
 must sell what we have bought and go elsewhere. 
 
 November 20th. — We have at last secured a division of 
 the Garden, and that of course brings up the building 
 question again. After our concert of prayer the gentle- 
 men got the heirs all together and worked a whole day to 
 get a suitable piece or indeed any piece, but the one who 
 OAvned the most would do nothing at all until the Garden
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIPFEX. 255 
 
 was divided into thirds and " the lot " cast for his third. 
 And he got just what we wanted. After that we could 
 only get ours in three pieces. The largest is one and one- 
 fourth acres and does not please us very well as a site. 
 Besides it is so nnich smaller than we wished. It is still 
 possible though to effect an exchange and get an equiv- 
 alent for our three pieces in one piece outside of the Gar- 
 den. But it may take half a year longer to do this. In 
 case we succeed in this we could have the girls' boarding- 
 school on the same lot, and that would be a great advan- 
 tage in many ways. Dr. Hogg and Mr. Giffen were to 
 have gone this afternoon to survey our largest piece, so 
 that they may be able to determine upon plans for 
 building. If they see that they can put the kind of 
 of house they wish on this piece they will then most 
 likely begin collecting materials and making up esti- 
 mates, etc., etc. By the time the brick and lumber are 
 ready it will probably appear on which piece of ground 
 we must build and the work will then go on. 
 
 December 28th. — They are cutting down the palm trees 
 on our lot, and are bringing earth and stones. One thous- 
 and cubic metres of stone are to be delivered within two 
 months at a cost of about one dollar per metre. That is 
 Jive timea as expensive as around Cairo. In consequence 
 they have had to abandon ihe idea of building entirely 
 of stone, as was desirable in order to have the house cool 
 in summer. Only foundations will be of stone, and it is 
 thought these nnist be two metres broad, (seventy-nine 
 inches), but they will not require to be more than a metre 
 deep." 
 
 Most of the foundation for the main building has now 
 been laid, and the workmen are busy erecting the Avails of 
 the other minor buildings. The entire work is being
 
 256 LIFE AND LETTERS OP 
 
 pushed forward to completion as rapidly as circumstances 
 will permit. In the meantime the college is flourishing as 
 never before. The dormitory, for the poorer classes of 
 students who must live as cheaply as possible, accommo- 
 dates ninety, and is full, and some have not been removed 
 from the old building. Boon room will be made for one- 
 third more, and then with little expense rooms for as many 
 more can be constructed on the second floor. The pupils 
 now in attendance number one hundred and sixty-nine. 
 The future of the college seems very bright. 
 
 In a recent letter Mr. GifTen says : 
 
 " The college is now doing a great Avork in the way of 
 furnishing teachers for village schools. At least twenty of 
 our undergraduates are at this time engaged in teaching, 
 and of course every one copies as well and as faithfully as 
 he can the only model he knows anything about. If Mr, 
 Pressly of Monmouth, 111., (a brother of Rev. James P. 
 Pressly, D. D.,) could only pass up and down the Nile 
 and see these teachers at work — nearly all of whom have 
 been helped by the fund which he so generously provided 
 it would certainly rejoice his heart, that he had been the 
 chosen means for placing money where it is doing so 
 much good."
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY (i[FFEX. 257 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 8EVERE ILLNESS — JOURNEY TO ITALY — VESL'VIUS — POM- 
 PEII. 
 
 The repeated and severe illness which Mrs. Giften ex- 
 perienced just at this time seemed to make it imperative 
 to seek rest and recuperation in some other climate. Dur- 
 ing the absence of the gentlemen at a session of the Pres- 
 bytery, Eddie Alexander was seized with diptheria and 
 soon fell a victim. AVatching and nursing the little suf- 
 ferer had greatly enfeebled and prostrated jNIrs. Giffen, 
 and on the day that he was buried she writes : 
 
 " That day I had a good deal of fever, but Mr. Giffen 
 came at sunset and I felt comforted. The fever kept up, 
 however, until Thursday, when I felt obliged to get a girls' 
 school ready for examination before the commissioners, 
 on the next Monday. That gave me hard work for the 
 rest of the week. Monday we were all day in the church, 
 Tuesday the commissioners, Drs. Barr and Stewart, \\\{\\ 
 all our mission circle dined with us. That night we were 
 invited to Kh. Wasif's to a dinner of fifteen courses. It 
 was eleven when we left the table and midnight when Ave 
 got home. Next morning I went to the college. About 
 night I took a chill, was very sick all night and continued 
 to grow worse and worse with severe pain in my chest. By 
 .Saturday hope was almost gone, but they decided to tele- 
 graph to Cairo for a doctor. The telegram reached Dr. 
 Grant just barely in time for him to dispatch to a town 
 not far from Alexandria for a Germa«i doctor to come to 
 Cairo on that night's express and go next day to Asyoot. 
 He arrived at sunset Sabbath night, but all I suppose had
 
 258 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 then quite lost hope. When Mr. G. heard the train com- 
 ing he thought it was of no avail, but after a careful ex- 
 amination the doctor began " cold water " treatment very 
 vig(jrously and at ten o'clock left me better. Next day 
 however I was worse, but he kept up the treatment, 
 wrapped me in a thick wet sheet, fanned me and gave me 
 wine of ipecac and after I began to sliiver, removed the 
 sheet and applied twelve leeches to my side, the wounds 
 of Avhich bled all night. No one who knows of the case 
 doubts that he Avas the means of saving my life. Five or 
 six days after Lulu was severely attacked with fever. By 
 the time she was out of danger, I took another disease, 
 which seemed half East India jungle fever and half 
 scarlet fever, which greatly prostrated me, and just as soon 
 as I could get out bed from that, we had to get our things 
 together to leave the house we were in. We decided that 
 I should take the children to Cairo. There Bruce took 
 dengue and when he got better I Avent to Ramie. That 
 night Lulu Avas attacked Avith the dengue also, and Avas 
 very sick for a few days. 80 much loss of sleep and gen- 
 eral Aveariness began to tell badly on me, and to make me 
 long to be aAvay from Egypt for aAvhile. 
 
 Just then too it became apparent that Mr. Giffen could 
 not go on with the building during the summer, as there 
 Avas necessity for finishing the business of the titles before 
 the Cadi or Moslem judge. 80 we decided to go to Italy 
 for a short time and try to gather up strength and energy 
 for next year's Avork and responsibilities." 
 
 Just at this time the intelligence of the death of Dr. 
 Bonner reached her, and to Mrs. Bonner she Avrote : " We 
 have been afflicted and tossed, but I need not tell you that 
 we have spoken and thought much of you. I am sure 
 that I can sympathize with you, since we were almost cer-
 
 MRP. MARY GALLOWAY (41FFEX. 269 
 
 tain that our time of parting had al.so come. The first 
 time Ave had prayers after I was able to .sit beside Mr. 
 Gifl'en, he selected the 116th Psahn, and wliile we sang 
 it witli full hearts I longed that you and you]'.« also 
 might live to rejoice in singing it together. But it Avas 
 not God's will. How sad it is, how sore it makes one's heart 
 to give up the greatest blessing we ever enjoyed. How 
 different home will seem in some respect, if I am ever per- 
 mitted to see it. So many are gone, and perhaj)s many 
 more may go before I am there. But last spring in Asyoot 
 I supposed that I would meet first the dear (jnes " gone be- 
 fore." It is comforting that it is the All Knowing, the 
 Ever Kind one who holds all in His hands." 
 
 The journey to Italy was made without any noteworthy 
 occurrence, and from Naples she wrote : 
 
 "We had not been long in the city until we learned that 
 Vesuvius was in unusually active condition, and that many 
 persons were hurrying out to see it. On inquiry, however, 
 we learned that it was both an expensive and fatiguing bit 
 of sight-seeing, so fatiguing that I could not think of go- 
 ing even if we had felt able to pay a Napoleon each for 
 the trip. So Mr. Giffen went alone. At the Lower Sta- 
 tion he met with a juirty of good United Presbyterians 
 from Allegheny. 
 
 There are two car.^ only on the railway. One is descend- 
 ing while the other is ascending. They are moved by end- 
 less wire cables, worked by an engine at the Lower Station. 
 The cars run on a single rail, which is about a foot in 
 height by ten inches across. There is a wheel at each end 
 of the coach running on the top of the rail, while from 
 each side of the coach there are arms, which pass under 
 at an angle, are furnished with wheels at their lower ex- 
 tremities, and run in grooves upo}i the sides of one rail.
 
 260 LIFE ASD LETTERS OF 
 
 Should the cable break, these dele wheels clasp the rail 
 automatically and hold the car still in its place. In con- 
 sequence of running upon a single rail, there is no jolting 
 but a smooth, even motion, at about the rate of a man 
 walking on level ground. From the Lower to the Upper 
 Station it is nine minutes by the car. From there you 
 walk up to the crater, which is about fifteen minutes dis- 
 tant ; and it is for this part of the trip that one requires a 
 guide. On leaving the car the guides were in readiness, 
 and Mr. G. fell in with the Allegheny party. 
 
 In some places they Avere almost suffocated with the 
 sulphurous fumes rising from crevices in the cooled lava 
 beds, even though they held their handkerchiefs over their 
 nostrils. A large stream (^f lava was running down the 
 side of the mountain to the left of the railway, while every 
 few minutes, perhaps every three, there was an explosive 
 burst in the crater, which threw up a great column of 
 vapor, smoke and melted matter. Tlie latter fell in show- 
 ers all around, and of course sight-seers needed to watch 
 to avoid being struck by the pieces. Mr. G. brought home 
 a bit as large as ray closed hand which fell at his feet. It 
 is black, and very porous and brittle. He also brought 
 some pieces of sulphur from the crater. 
 
 Some ladies who had paid for their railway tickets had 
 not the courage to make the ascent to the crater, or even 
 to go as far as the Upper Station, and Mr. G. thought that 
 no one really enjoyed the ascent. There was too much 
 thunder, too much hot lava, aud too many Plutonian 
 vapors to make one feel content to stand and gaze over 
 the grand panorama always in view around Naples, and 
 especially when seen from such a height as Mount Vesuvius. 
 Just now he was saying that if he were going out there 
 again and were in good health, he would take the ordinary
 
 MRS. MAPA' GALLOWAY GIFFKN'. 261 
 
 railway to Pompeii as far as Portici, and then walk across 
 to, and lip, Vesuvius alone. He. says it would be fatigu- 
 ing, but could be done in a day. When he and his party 
 reached the lower station, he heard some one call him, and 
 turning round he found himself face to face with Miss 
 Linn Pressly, of Allegheny, »who was just about to take 
 her place in the ascending car. She was greatly surprised 
 to meet any one she knew in Vesuvius, and could hardly 
 believe Miss Galloway was in Naples. Mr. G. inquired 
 why she wasn't going to Egypt. " O," she said, " the At- 
 lantic was so much that I cannot think of crossing the 
 Mediterranean." I (jttess she pays tribute to Neptune, too. 
 Her party were going to Rome early the next morning, 
 and she said they would not get back from Vesuvius until 
 nigcht, when she would be too weary to come to our hotel. 
 We would have gone to see her at theirs, but I had no one 
 with whom to leave Bruce and Lulu, and I knew they 
 would be too sleepy to take out calling at that time in the 
 evening. So we did not meet. 
 
 It was a great disappointment to me that I could not 
 ascend Vesuvius. But as soon as I understood the situa- 
 tion I knew I could not make the trip, no matter how 
 much I wished to, as I would not risk my health for any 
 sight-seeing in Europe. Indeed, sight-seeing to Mission- 
 aries is a very different thing from what it is to travelers. 
 When we are going out, Avhat is beyond us in Egypt, the 
 unknow-n, untried life, takes most of the interest out of 
 what would be otherwise all engrossing ; and when one is 
 in search of rest and recuperation there is nothing worse 
 than sight-seeing. So now I do not care about Vesuvius, 
 do not regret not having been to its summit ; and sometimes 
 I think I would not have endured the fatigue of the jour- 
 ney, which Drs. Barr and Stewart have made, for a great
 
 262 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 .sum. It is, especially, mental fotigue which I have in 
 mind. One gets weary of dghU and looks at and tries to 
 fasten them in memory, not because it is pleasant or enjoy- 
 able at the time, but only to think about them and tell 
 one's friends afterwai-ds. And that soon becomes very 
 Aveary work. « 
 
 AVe had arrived in Naples Thursday morning. I staid 
 quietly upstairs until Saturday morning, when I felt al- 
 most like myself, and thought I should like to go with Mr. 
 Gitfen to the JNLuseum. It is a very extensive building, 
 but most of it is on the ground floor, and we could see 
 things pretty well without much fatigue. Lulu and Bruce 
 ran al)out and anuised themselves, while we looked, at 
 objects of interest. I had supposed that no nuiseum would 
 be very interesting after seeing that of London, but it is a 
 mistake. In Naples there are rooms and rooms, the walls 
 of which are entirely covered with paintings and frescoes 
 from Pom})eii. They are well preserved and show that art 
 was quite well understood in those old da^'S. There are 
 also very fine mosaics from the same place. One is on a 
 raised .space in the center of a large hall, and is sur- 
 rounded by an inm railing. It is oval, about 18 feet long 
 by perhaps 12 feet in width, and is a very fine picture of the 
 battle of Issus. Alexander, on horseback, is one of the 
 prominent figures. The bits of stone, of which the picture 
 is formed, are almost as large as the point of my little fin- 
 ger, but it is wonderful how ])right and clear the picture 
 is. In the rooms lined with these scenes from Pompeii 
 there were many artists at work, making showy cojiies of 
 gods and goddesses, of cupids and their victims, but espe- 
 cially of handsome women, who Avere nearly all dressed in 
 pink or sea-green. One of them begged us to buy some 
 of his copies. We were amazed that he only asked 2 
 francs for them, and yet many of them were very pretty.
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 268 
 
 In another room we saw the clay copy of a beautiful statue, 
 the first time I had ever seen clay modelings. There were 
 many long galleries of bust and full sized statues, not only 
 of gods and goddesses, but of almost all the great Roman 
 and Grecian heroes and heroines. There are all the Ciesars, 
 I think, and some of their wives, the mother of Nero, the 
 Ptolemies, Homer, Dante, Representatives of the Nile ; 
 while there are /o((t Apollos, and perhaps half a room full 
 of life-sized, standing Venuses. But there was only one 
 Apollo and one Venus which pleased me. This Apollo 
 was of immense size, in sitting posture, lyre in hand. The 
 head was grandly crowned Avith laurel, all in beautiful 
 Avhite marble, as also the hands and feet, while the grace- 
 ful robe was of fine red porphyry. The effect of the two 
 colors was very striking. The Venuses are merely hand- 
 some women, or intended to be such, but to me, some of 
 them had real simpering countenances, while others had 
 wicked-looking mouths. Yet all of them were done by great 
 Greek and Roman sculptors. Beside the galleries of Mar- 
 lile figures there are perhaps half a dozen filled with 
 bronzes. One of these is a magnificent figure of Nero on 
 horseback, found in the forum of Pompeii, from whence 
 also were brought a great many others of the finest pieces 
 in the Museum. There is an immense statue of Hercules 
 by Glycon of Athens, found in the baths of Caracalla at 
 Rome. The sinews are wonderful, and the appearance of 
 sirengfh so striking that one did not need to be told for 
 what it was intended. In the same Hall is a group called 
 " The Farnese Bull." It is cut from one piece of marble, 
 and represents a beautiful woman bound to the horns of a 
 Avild bull by two men, but I think there are five full-sized 
 persons in the group, beside the magnificent animal in the 
 center. 
 
 J
 
 264 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 The second story is devoted to paiutiiig priiieipally, at 
 least on one wing. Tliere are separate halls for all different 
 schools, and every hall was filled from floor to lofty ceiling 
 with magnificent pictures. Here, as down stairs, there 
 were many artists copying, but these were grand pictures, 
 and one could not buy them for two francs. One Hall is 
 called the Hall of the Venuses, and was far more revolt- 
 ing than the same ideal in marble. Art in Europe, holds 
 nothing sacred, and one has to become accustomed to what 
 people do not look at in America. This feeling of " get- 
 ting used to it" is the only way in which one can excuse 
 European taste ; but I hope it will require a long time for 
 Americans to get so " used to it," as to tolerate nude art to 
 the extent that one sees everywhere here. 
 
 By far the most interesting apartment in the Museum 
 was the one which contained " Comestibili " (Provisions) 
 from Pompeii. These were in glass cases running round 
 the room. There was first a row of about a dozen perfect 
 loaves of bread, all carbonized, found in the houses and 
 bakeries of Pompeii. They are in the form of an ordi- 
 nary loaf cake, and have indentations on the top, made 
 with a knife before baking, as one cuts a pie. Then there 
 Avere dishes of dates, figs, cherries, coffee, rice, &c., all of 
 perfect form. In a case by itself were glass tubes contain- 
 ing olives and the oil ivhich had been pressed from the fruit 
 since found. It was clear and of a natural color, but the 
 olives were a little dark. On the other side were cases 
 containing charred cloths, silk and thread, lamp wicks, 
 corks, sponges, needles, bones, eggs, of natural color, only 
 a little yellow, almonds, grapes, nuts, wheat, &e. The 
 texture of the cloth was perfect, and the large skeins of 
 thread unbroken. There was also a sauce pan containing 
 meat and a purse containing three coins of the time of
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 265 
 
 Vespasian. In a hall on the other wing were cases of the 
 jewels found at Pompeii and Herculaneuni. There are 
 handsome rings, bracelets, and earrings, and some immense 
 gold chains, not very unlike the present fashion of articles, 
 the endless ones I mean. Among these jewels are the 
 chain and bracelets found on *' Julia," Diomed's daughter. 
 It made one feel very sad to look over these things, these 
 witnesses if I may so speak, of that great catastrophe, and 
 when I had seen these I did not care to see other things, 
 though there Avere many other halls besides the great li- 
 brary. As we came out, however, we stopped and looked 
 a second time at quite a number of beautiful mai'ble col- 
 umns of many different coloi's from the buried cities. Some 
 of them were ten or twelve feet high, and of the finest 
 polish. We both came away far from satisfied, feeling 
 that we would like to come another day and just go over 
 what we had already seen, which was a different feeling 
 from anything we have experienced before or since. 
 
 Early Monday morning we took the cars for Pompeii. 
 It is an hour's ride from Naples. As we came in sight of 
 the Station of Pompeii, the first thing which met my eyes 
 was " Hotel de Diomede." It gave me a strange sensation — 
 a feeling that it ivas a/most sacrilegious. From the Station 
 you walk through a cultivated field which is quite low and 
 level, up the hotel and offices which is situated on the foot 
 of the hill of Pompeii. Tickets of admission cost 2 francs 
 each, but this includes a guide. These guides are in uni- 
 form, and ours at least was a very civil sort of a fellow, 
 never once hinting at buksheesh. He spoke English, very 
 brokenly however, and from the manner in which he pro- 
 nounced or rather mispronounced his h's I decided that 
 like the Belgian attachee at Washington, who did not like 
 to talk English with Americans, he must have learned his
 
 266 LIFE AKD LETTERS OP 
 
 English in London. It was always halters for altars, and 
 or^es for horses. 
 
 Passing up the hill about 100 yards, we came first to a 
 great strong gate or street door, and entered an arched 
 covered way, paved with very heavy, rough stones, which 
 conducts to the level of the city. This gate is called the 
 "Sea Gate," and I suppose from the strong manner in 
 which the covered way and the gate are made that the sea 
 may once have come up near to this entrance, though now 
 it is at some distance. From this street we entered the 
 Museum, which consists of a long hall. In the center in 
 glass cases were the petrified bodies of six persons, just as 
 they were found. Three are men, one a single woman, and 
 one case contains what is supposed to be mother and 
 daughter, the latter apparently a child of 10 or 12 years. 
 ►Some of them had apparently died in great agony. One 
 is lying on the face with the arm under the forehead. One 
 man had a belt of money, or at least what appears to be 
 such a belt, around the waist, and one woman would soon 
 have been a mother. Besides these skeletons, or forms 
 rather, there is that of a dog, which had died in a half 
 sitting posture, and in the utmost agony. Its writhings 
 are as plain as if you had witnessed the death. These 
 were sad sights. They made you realize the feelings and 
 enter into the sufferings of those who were overwhelmed 
 in the great eruption as nothing else could. You felt you 
 were in the presence of the dead, in the presence of those 
 on whom God had laid his hand in a terrible way. Be- 
 side these bodies there were specimens of all the articles 
 we had seen in the Museum of Naples, except the jewels 
 and the olive oil. 
 
 Passing up the remainder of the street we soon found 
 ourselves in the still vacant city. Oh, it is a strange experi-
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 267 
 
 enee ! All tlie houses are there, and most of them have 
 the uumber and name of the owner marked upon them. 
 They are all one story, and that not very high, except one, 
 which seemed to have been built with some limited ideas 
 of two stories. Those of the rich are much on the style of 
 Egyptian houses. There is first a general entrance then a 
 court for the men, and behind that a larger court for the 
 women, in the center of which was a fountain, with often 
 Ijeautiful marble steps over which the water fell to form a 
 little cascade. Beside one of these fountains was the faucet 
 for turning on and shutting off, and it looked just as if one 
 might use it still. Some of the fountains had a kind of cano])y 
 over them with a back piece very handsomely designed in 
 mosaics, and in the recess formed thus, in some houses, 
 were fine pieces of statuary. Around these courts were 
 the dining and sleeping rooms. One could easily imagine 
 what a nice, cool place one of these large courts must have 
 been, and after seeing Egyptian women, it did not stretch 
 imagination much to infer that plenty of gossijJ and side 
 talk had echoed round these walls. Many other things 
 reminded us of Egypt. The water jars, kitchens, wine 
 shops, oil stands, mills and bakeries, which were some- 
 times found in the same house, and also the public 
 bath. In the latter was an artist sketching. Many of the 
 streets were marked at the head with various devices to 
 show the craft or calling. There were streets of wine shops 
 only, of oil shops, of masons, carpenters, &c. In one of 
 the back streets, the guide called it, as we thought, " the 
 street of the brothers," and before we knew had unlocked 
 a door to a room, the walls of which were covered with 
 bright, well executed pictures of the most obsce)ie character. 
 In an instant we knew he had said brothels instead of 
 brothers. And he said a vast quantity of such ijaiutingjj
 
 268 IJFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 and other objects foiuid in this street were kept in a iiall 
 in the Museum at Naples, and never opened to women and 
 children — a statement corroborated by the guide books. 
 
 In Diomed's house we were shown the spot where the 
 skeleton was found wearing bracelets marked " Julia " and 
 ahvays spoken of as Diomed's daughter. The guide said 
 there were seoetiti/ skeletons found in that house, but after- 
 wards I wondered if he really intended to say seventy, as 
 I have always understood that there were comparatively 
 few persons Avho did not escape. Just now I have looked 
 up the matter in a guide book, and the number is given 
 " as seventeen women mid children furnished with provision, 
 but who are supposed to have been suffocated by the tor- 
 rents of ashes and water which rushed in after the erup- 
 tion." Diomed himself, as was supposed, held a key in 
 his hand, and near him was a slave bearing money and 
 other valuables. I sat doim and reded awhile in Sallud's 
 ho^ise. It is considered one of the finest. In it, as in 
 many others, the mosaics of the floors are covered with 
 earth to prevent the rains from destroying or injuring 
 them, as the wooden roofs of the houses were almost all de- 
 stroyed early in the eruption, or else fell in with the weight 
 of ashes, lava and pumice stones. The house of Sallust opens 
 into three streets. In the court of the men are some fine 
 frescoes covered over to protect them, and which are still 
 very bright and distinct. 
 
 One is Acteon watching Diana in her bath, and on the 
 other wall is Phryxuson, the ram, and Helle, in the water, 
 Europa and the Bull, followed by cupid, &c. 
 
 There are many temples, among them that of Venus, 
 Mercury, Jupiter, Augustus, or that of Vesta, the Temple 
 of Fortune, &c. The most interesting to me was that of 
 Isis. We saw the grand altar and the pit into which the
 
 3IRS. MARY GALLOWAY (ilFFEX. 269 
 
 remains of the sacrificei? were thrown, and also a small cell 
 Avith an underground entrance for the priest who stood be- 
 hind the figure of Isis and delivered her oracles i'oy her, 
 when the people in(juired of her. There are also two or 
 three theatres and an amphitheatre with barracks for the 
 (xladiators. The streets are generally very narrow, many 
 f)f them not beine- more than ten feet. Nearlv all had a 
 narrow raised ))ath on each side, while the chariot way 
 was paved with rough lava stones, into which the traces of 
 the wheels were sometimes pretty deeply cut, while at little 
 distances there were step})ing stones, generally three, for 
 crossing in rainy weather. These were often a foot high, 
 and would just admit of a horse passing between them. 
 After Ave had seen most of the city, which is not large, 
 there having been about 12,000 inhabitants only, and tlic 
 great majority of the houses being small and near together, 
 we went up upon unexcavated ground and looked over the 
 whole, as well as at the grand ami)hitheatre, in the centre of 
 which Pompeii seemed to lie. It is hard to realize that 
 lazy looking, idly smoking Vesuvius could do so much dam- 
 age. The unexcavated parts of the city are not very ex- 
 tensive, but where we went uj) on the bank there was quite 
 a field of corn and beans growing greenly over what the 
 guide said was unexcavated ground, being, I suppose, 
 within the walls. 
 
 The eruption took phice in August, A. D. 7!J, and lasted 
 three days, Vesuvius pouring out torrents of boiling water, 
 mixed with ashes, as well as gi'eat masses of inflammable 
 matter and pumice stones. Much glass was melted, though 
 a vast (piantity of rain is known to have fallen, perhaps, 
 during the three days. The stratum of earth, pumice 
 stone and ashes is about four metres deep. At the place 
 where we went uj) on the top, we seemed to climb up a bed 
 of ashes onlv.
 
 270 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 Excavatiug was not begun until 17-48, when some valua- 
 ble objects were discovered by accident, but it is only since 
 1863 that the work has gone on regularly. Skeletons 
 have been found crushed in the houses, others buried un- 
 der the stones and ashes, and others apparently sleeping in 
 the streets, it is supposed, from inhaling the peculiar gases. 
 In a locked room, with a slatted door, Ave saw a skeleton 
 embedded in the ashes, though enough had been removed 
 to give you a good idea of the manner in which the per- 
 son had been covered up. After we left this house, I sat 
 down in the street with the children and I'estecl, while Mr. 
 Giffen and the guide went farther on. There were pretty 
 little blue and pink flowers growing along the side walks, 
 and r sat and indulged myself in a good many reflections, 
 while Bruce and Lulu's little fingers made sad havoc of 
 the flowers. What would I not have given once for the 
 assurance that one daiy I would see Pompeii ! And now 
 without such thought or design, in leaving home, there I 
 was with my two little ones beside me! 
 
 When we were satisfied with looking at streets and houses 
 we went back to the offices, and into a large room filled 
 with pictures, photographs and albums. 
 
 There were many tempting things, but we only bought 
 four photographs, and then went down to the Station, sat 
 in the shade and waited for the train. Only think of the 
 railroad running along beside Pompeii ! What a change 
 from the time when its poor frightened citizens went flying 
 along over the same ground ! We had an hour to wait. 
 So we sat on the stones in the yard, and listened to the 
 wind making ^Eolian harps of the telegraph wires, until 
 the train came along and took us back to Naples." 
 
 In a few days they reached their destination in the Wal • 
 densian valleys. Here they remained nearly two months,
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEX. 271 
 
 in sight of the mountain snows ; and with the comparative 
 freedom from care and hibor which they felt, the h)ng 
 rambles among the hills and the pure cold springs on the 
 mountain sides, Mrs. Gitteu and the children soon seemed 
 to have recovered their full health and strength ; but INIr. 
 Giifen was soon prostrated with ague and rheumatism, and 
 so continued much of the time during their stay, and here, 
 doubtless, were soon the seeds of the disease — acute rheu- 
 matism — which, in a few months aftei-, terminated Mrs. 
 Giffen's life. 
 
 But the harvest was so great and the labors in their 
 mission field so few, that we soon find them on their re- 
 turn voyage to Alexandria. The events of the journey are 
 given by Mi's. Giffen. 
 
 "As you see we are back in our old place again. I had 
 hoped to write regularly after I got started again in Italy, 
 but I could not. We received letters one morning in La 
 Tour that there would be a meeting of the Association on 
 the 2r)th of July. We had walked doAvn to the Post to- 
 gether, so we sat down at a restaurant, made the calcula- 
 tion and luond that we could reach Egypt in time for the 
 meeting, if we were in Turin next morning at 9 o'clock. 
 So we went home, got dinner, saw a young gentleman 
 whom Mr. Giffen wished to engage as French teacher for 
 the college, explained everything to him, and packed up 
 our valises. We intended to go Pignerol, the railway sta- 
 tion, that night, but when we paid our boarding, we were 
 charged with the nights lodging and breakfast, whether 
 we staid or went, and as it is not pleasant to move about so 
 much with two children, we decided to stay in La Tour for 
 the night, and leave at daylight next morning. Two 
 members of the family had done this during our stay, and 
 we heard the lady say she had ordered coffee for us. But
 
 272 yJFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 she Avas not iu good health, and her husband was away. 
 It was a very warm close night, and when we took Bruce 
 and Lulu up at o o'clock both liegan begging for water- 
 There was none in the room, and the little fountain from 
 which we had been drinking had dried up only two days 
 before. Neither of us knew where the other one was, and 
 we thought we could get it at breakfast, but when it was 
 time to leave the house no one had stirred. The omni- 
 bus was down iu the town, and when we got in, we asked the 
 attendant for water, and we thought it was coming every 
 moment, but the onuiibus drove ofl' Ix^fore it came. O 
 well, we thought, we can get the best of water in Pignerol, 
 but the driver stopped at grog shops so often that when we 
 got out of the omnibus the manager ui-ged us oft', saying 
 we would be late for the train. There was just time to 
 get tickets and get in the cars, and then the guard locked 
 the do(n-. We went third class, and the car was terribly 
 crowded, and the heat very great. Lulu crying most of the 
 way for water. We had but little time in Turin, and as 
 the ticket offices are only open a few minutes, jNIr. (lifl'en 
 was oblio;ed to attend to that iirst. ^[eantime Lulu had 
 seen a man go along with a l)ucket of <lirty water, and 
 she was nearly frantic. I knew where there was a restaur- 
 ant, but I could not leave the baggage, and thought there 
 would certainly be time for ]\Ir. Giften to get the water af- 
 ter he would put us in the car ; but when he jumped out 
 with the bottle, the guard })eremptorily ordered him back, 
 and we were obliged to submit. The heat Avas fearful, and 
 the dust as bad as in Egypt. None of us had anything to 
 eat, and Lulu seemed wild with thirst. We were on the 
 Express, and we flew past station after station without 
 stopping until nearly noon. At last the door w'as opened, 
 and Mr. Giften came back with a bottle of about as bad
 
 MRP. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEK. 273 
 
 Avater as I ever tried to drink ; but it had been iced slightly, 
 and the poor little thing seized the cup as if she would 
 like to swallow it whole, and would not let it go even 
 when she could drink no niorc. In southern Italy the 
 water is almost universally bad, so much so that it is not 
 safe to drink much of it. It must always be iced, and 
 they generally add to it a syrup of anise seed — on hy- 
 gienic principles, I suppose, but to me it is very disagreea- 
 ble. It is never brought to the car windows as here, and 
 as all the buffets or restaurants are at the back of the rail- 
 way stations, one can only get Avater when the guard 
 chooses to open the car door. Indeed there is little com- 
 fort in railway travel in Europe without you can take 
 everything you may wish with you, and happen to get a 
 compartment to yourselves, which, of course, can be but a 
 rare occurrence. We found that we could overtake the 
 Italian boat at Naples by leaving the next night at mid- 
 night. 
 
 After supper jMr. G. told me to take the children and 
 go to sleep, and he would wake us in time to get off. But 
 Bruce had got so nervous over our oft-repeated going and 
 stopping without ever getting back home, that he had be- 
 come fully persuaded that sometime we would go off and 
 leave him asleep, and he therefore decided that he would 
 watch f(jr himself But at last his determination failed 
 him, and we all slept. 
 
 We left Genoa at 11 o'clock at night the 19th. There, 
 as everywhere else in Europe, you must wait in the station 
 until the porter unlocks the door, before you can pass to 
 the train. Then, of course, there is a great rush for seats, 
 though ordinarily the compartments are not overcrowded. 
 But this time there were a great many second-class passen- 
 gers, and very few second-class compartments. Some of
 
 274 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 them Avere filled with soldiers, -who would smoke and drink 
 wine the rest of the night ; but after going the length of 
 the train, we found we could do no better than just to 
 pack in as others were doing. Most people carry so nuich 
 baggage in Europe that it becomes a question how to dis- 
 j)Ose of it when there are many passengers. While we 
 were putting ours in order, we sat the children down in 
 our places. Instantly a man next me began to growl 
 about babies taking up grown people's places. I did not 
 answer ; but in a few minutes a young man on the other 
 side took up his own things and helped Mr. GifFen to a 
 seat, where he could hold Bruce in more comfort. It was 
 refreshing to find a man who remembered that little peo- 
 ple have some rights as well as grown men and women. 
 The dust and heat were very great, and the passengers next 
 the window resolutely kept them closed. Then one or two 
 began to smoke and I wondered hoAv we would get through 
 the night. But to our great joy two passengers got out in 
 an hour or two and a little further on we got rid of the 
 wretched grumbler who sat by me and kept pushing Lulu's 
 feet off" his pants whenever her slippers touched him. To- 
 Avards day there remained but one passenger beside our- 
 selves, and we got one nice little sleep. But as the morn- 
 ing advanced a little, Mr. Giften grew very ill and suffered 
 extremely. Had we not had medicine with us I do not 
 knoAv what Ave should have done. His face had such a 
 queer look and he Avas so flushed and hot that I felt greatly 
 alarmed, especially Avhen we found that Ave had been mis- 
 informed about the time of reaching Naples. We saAV Ave 
 Avould miss the Italian steamer by a couple of hours and 
 Avould have to Avait two days for the French. We sup- 
 posed it Avould be hot, and not very safe to remain in 
 Naples tAvo days at that season. But there was no help
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 275 
 
 for it. We reached Rome at noon. There we had to wait 
 three hours. The station hall is very large and tolerably 
 cool. As soon as I could I got out our spirit lamp and 
 made Mr. G. some strong tea. He was very nervous and 
 could not sit still a minute, but the tea relieved him appar- 
 ently, and when we left we got a half compartment at the 
 end of the car to ourselves. You don't know how thank- 
 ful we felt for it. Mr. G. continued to feel better and the 
 air grew cooler and fresher. By nine o'clock we were in 
 sight of the light of Vesuvius, and once I saw a very 
 brilliant explosion, just as the volcano is represented in 
 some of the night views of Naples and Vesuvius, except 
 that the lava streams had then ceased to flow. By mid- 
 night we had reached our hotel, and there we spent two 
 very pleasant days. Naples was just full of fruit and it 
 was all so good and cheap. O how we enjoyed the peaches ! 
 They were so much more like home fruit than anything 
 we get here. 
 
 AVhen Mr. G. took our tickets they told him at the 
 agency to be on board of steamer by eight o'clock Satur- 
 day morning. So we hurried as much as we could, but 
 when we reached the harbor and had got into the little 
 boat which was to take us out to the steamer the boatman 
 said the latter was not in, but to sit down, and it soon 
 would be, as the French boats were not often late. Oui- 
 baggage was in and the carriage dismissed before we knew 
 the state of affairs, and any way we supposed it was a mat- 
 ter of no moment. But the minutes went round and the 
 sun grew hot and we still had to sit there on the water and 
 wait. After a time I took the children and walked up the 
 street where we could at least walk in the shade and get 
 some air, but I was afraid to stay long, lest the boatman 
 might go off with Mr. G. and the baggage and leave us
 
 276 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 behind. Fortunately we got some water and fruit, and the 
 cliildren were just as good as they could be. But there 
 we had to sit until noon. At last the flag was run up from 
 the agency and we started. "When we Avere quite out of 
 reach of all other other boats the owner of the one we 
 were in and which we had taken for three, franco, turned 
 around to Mr. G. and said in bad English, " This boat has 
 to have twenty francs to take you out to the steamer." 
 And Avhen Mr. G. would not agree to it he stepped the 
 rowers and let us sit there. It was so provoking, but by 
 dint of a good deal of talk and keeping quite cool and 
 quiet, Mr. G. got him to go-on for ten francs — $2.00. From 
 all we have learned I guess there are no meaner boatmen 
 in the world than Neapolitans, and yet after all perhaps 
 they are no more than Pyramid Arabs. Still I think the 
 Neapolitans would have to work hard to catcli us in the 
 same trap again. It was one o'clock before we were on 
 board, and you may guess how tired and sunbui-nt we were. 
 Bruce was wearing a Scotch cap only, and the little fellow 
 was almost in a blister, but neither he nor Lulu cried 
 once the whole morning. 
 
 Having at last succeeded in reaching the steamer, we 
 were soon comfortably arranged in a very nice state-room. 
 The day was fine and all the accommodations much nicer 
 than by the Italian line ; so we promised ourselves a 
 pleasant trip. But we were not an hour out of port when 
 Bruce, Lulu and I were all on our backs in a row. There 
 were an unusual number of lounging places on the upper 
 deck, and ]Mr. Giffen brought up our rugs and blankets 
 and kept us up there all the time in daylight. Lulu got 
 up before night the first day and had a great romp over 
 the deck, but Bruce kept to his back most of two or three 
 days. He seemed to think things were not equally dis-
 
 MRS. MARY GAIJ.OWAY GIFFEN. 277 
 
 tributed, frequently remarking, " Poor mamma, and Bruce 
 have cough very much ; papa and IaiIu not." And yet 
 there was very little rough weather. Most of the sea was 
 as calm as a river, but the stean)er was an unusually long, 
 narrow boat, and it rocked unmercifully when there seemed 
 to be neither swell nor waves. I remember that I still 
 felt sick when the pilot came on board in Alexandria 
 harbor." 
 
 Here the record ends — the pen hiid down when these 
 sentences were finished ^vas never again to be taken up. 
 The familiar " Letters from our Missionary," — letters which 
 had brought instruction and rare enjoyment to so many 
 thousands of readers fur half a score of years, were to be 
 seen no more. The oft-repeated question, " Shall we see 
 her face again ? " was answered — not until the earth gives 
 up its dead and we all stand liefore the judgment seat. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 SICKNESS — DEATH BURIAL — SUMMARY OF MRS. GIFFEN'g 
 
 CHARACTER AND WORK. 
 
 In a short time after their arrival in Alexandria, they 
 went on to Asyoot their old h(nne, and resumed work as 
 usual. In a few weeks they moved into the new building, 
 for a mission family, that had been erected on the lot 
 containing the C^ollege building and dormitories. But 
 meanwhile they were forced to go into the old, tight, hot, 
 miserable house in which they had lived for years, and 
 in which they had suffered so much, and which so nearly
 
 278 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 proved the death of the entire family. When Mrs. Gitfeii 
 at length found herself in a new, clean, comfortable house 
 for the first time, her contentment and happiness seemed to 
 know no bounds. Sh e felt that all their former troubles 
 and sufterings were happily ended ; that she was now fully 
 equipped for effective work in any department of mission 
 labor, that before her lay a future bright with hope and 
 promise, — she was just entering u^ion the work her heart 
 had so longed for all her life, and for which she had labored 
 so long to fit herself. But alas ! for human hopes and ex- 
 l^ectations, how soon they are blasted. She was permitted 
 to live in this pleasant home but three weeks, and when 
 she left its threshold, it was to enter upon the last journey 
 ever made in Egypt. 
 
 Shortly before her last illness she went to Caii'o, because 
 there were none but native physicians in Asyoot who were 
 but little skilled in the management of patients, or the ex- 
 pert use of medicine. On the 9th of October Mrs. Giffen 
 gave birth to a son, and all went well for a time, but on 
 Tuesday, the third day she complained of a pain in her left 
 hand. The physicians pronounced it rheumatism caused 
 by cold. But the pain became sorer, and by next day had 
 extended to the other hand and was felt in the side and 
 ankles, and soon became almost unbearable. That night 
 she slept some from an injection of morphia, and for the 
 same reason was easier through AVednesday and Thursday. 
 Her husband and friends knew little of the uatui-e of acute 
 rheumatism, and as she seemed quiet and easy were not 
 alarmed as to her condition. Friday she had little fever, 
 but complained through the day of oppression and slept in 
 a fitful way. But that night the heart action became very 
 strong, and this violence continued through Saturday and 
 Sabbath to the end. At daybreak on Saturday her mind
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEX. 279 
 
 became coufused and so paitly remained. ludeed it is 
 aliiost certain that she wa.s either partially unconscious 
 during most of her illness, or was not aware of her condi- 
 tion, since she left not a message, even for her mother, and 
 her'swas not a nature to die and give no sign. 
 
 Oil Sal)bath in one of her lucid intervals she was heard 
 to sa}, "O dear Saviour come to my help." It was Coui- 
 muniou Sabbath, and she had asked to be remembered in 
 the services, and when Dr. Watson came iu he told her 
 that he had reference to her in all the morning's services ; 
 she answered that it was well. In the conversation which 
 followed she said, "I am ready and willing to die, but Oh ! 
 it will be so hard for I\Ir. Giffen and the children." That 
 night after dark vomiting commenced, and immediately a 
 great change passed over her face, and they knew that the 
 end had come. Mr. Giffen was in an adjoining room and 
 was called : He quickly came, but to his question " Do 
 you know me?" she answered, "no." This was the only 
 reply she ever made to any of his questions. The physi- 
 cian came but could give no help. 
 
 At 10: 20 o'clock on Sabbath night, the IGth of October, 
 1881, her spirit passed away, and was conducted by minis- 
 tering angels to that mansion prepared in the Father's 
 house. 
 
 When her father died some one stood over his body and 
 said, " the battle is fought and the victory won," and ^\ ho 
 v»ill deny to her, though she fell earlier in the battle, the 
 same pean of victory. After his death heaven and his 
 spirit always seemed so near. Who shall say that his dear 
 face was not the first that rose upon her glorified vision, 
 when she entered the world of the dead ? The busy, teem- 
 ing brain cold and frozen by the touch of death, the active 
 hands folded for the long, long rest, "the church's brightest
 
 280 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 star," vanished, from earth and risen evermore in the 
 firmament of heaven. But she had gained a " good report," 
 fell at her post, "died upon the field of honor," and vhen 
 •' her spirit passed the portals of light, it was doubtless met 
 by an array of the noble army of martyrs and conf«ssors, 
 that would do honor to any reception in the univers." 
 
 On the day following, the interment took place Her 
 countenance was calm, peaceful and sweet like one who 
 had lain down to pleasant sleep. At 3 : 30 o'clock tte body 
 was borne to the church, and Dr. Watson, the officiating 
 minister read the 90th Psalm in English. The 46tlx Psalm, 
 1-4, was then sung to a very plaintive tune, in Arabic. 
 The reading of I. Cor. 15th chapter, was then folloAved by 
 touchinu- and alFectino- remarks. The little band of Mis- 
 sionaries and friends wound their way through the crooked 
 streets to the new American cemetery, and there the dust 
 so precious was laid to rest until the time when " the voice 
 of the Hon of Man" shall call it forth, and "fashion in like 
 unto his own glorious body." Hidden always from our 
 human eyes — but not lost — only gone before. She will 
 sleep as well as if she rested beside the dust of her father, 
 under the sound of the church bell, and the Master will be as 
 near to guard her lonely grave in that dark land, as among us. 
 
 The tablet erected in her memory by her husband bears 
 the following inscription: 
 
 In Memory of 
 
 M .\ K Y E . (i A L L O WAY, 
 
 Wife of Rev. .John Giflen. 
 
 Horn in NeM-berry Coiuity, Sonth Carolina. 
 
 The First Missionaiy of the Associate Reformed Presbyterian 
 
 C'hnrch of the Sonth. 
 
 She Sailed from New York, Febrnary 10th, 1875. 
 
 Died lit Cairo, October IGth, 1881. 
 
 "Be thon faillifiil nnto death, and I will give thee a Crown of Life."
 
 MR?;. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEN. 281 
 
 Mrs. Giffen left three children: 
 
 Biuce Johnston Giffen, born in Ramie, Egypt, March 
 oth, 1878. 
 
 Lulu (Margaret) BpeerGiffeii, boru in Cairo, Egypt, Feb- 
 ruary 24th, 1880. 
 
 Marion Galloway Gitfeu, boru in Cairo, Egypt, October 
 9th, 1881. 
 
 The death of Mrs. Gitlen was a most unexpected shock. 
 Only a few days before, letters received from her husband 
 contained the most encouraging reports, so that her friends 
 perhaps felt ha])pier and better satisfied as to her future, 
 than ever before in her mission life. Then without a word 
 of warning they were overwhelmed by the terrible blow. 
 And so throughout the entire church. It was believed by 
 all that her visit to Italy had fully restored her health, and 
 that she was never better prepared for effective labor. The 
 fondest hopes of the church were centered in her and her 
 work, and the probability of her untimely death was n(jt 
 even regarded as among the possibilities. The surprise 
 and soiTOAV of the church, therefore, was profound when it 
 was known that ^[rs. Giffen had passed away. There was 
 a universal desire to see her face, and take her by the 
 hand. " I do not think there was a member of the church 
 so universally beloved, or one in whose behalf so many 
 prayers ascended to the Lord. Hei- correspondence was 
 the first thing read, by old and young here in these mountain 
 fastnesses. In her the church has lost her brightest star." 
 No one in the church was better known, and in none was 
 there more interest. It was not surprising, therefore, that 
 her death was the occasion of a spontaneous outburst of 
 sorrow and sympathy, through the entire church, and 
 brought letters of sympathy and condolence to her sorrow- 
 ing friends from every part of our common country.
 
 282 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 The day after tlie tidings of her death reached this 
 country, a memorial service was held in Due West, hei old 
 home. " The bells were tolled one hour before the exer- 
 cises began. On entering the church one was struck with 
 the impressive decorations of the pulpit and the walls in 
 the rear. There was a floral cross and crown most beauti- 
 fully devised. Beneath this there was a large, well executed 
 picture of the deceased. Underneath this again, was the 
 word in illuminated letters: 
 
 FAREWELL. 
 
 The exercises throughout were of solemn and tender in- 
 terest. As the first missionary of our church, Mrs. Giffen, 
 has won a prominent place in its history, and her name and 
 memory Avill ever be precious to those who appreciate un- 
 selfish devotion, high moral heroism, and the consecration 
 of eminent gifts to the cause of God." 
 
 When one dies in the Master's service in a good old age, 
 and is gathered home as a shock of corn in his season fully 
 ripe, has contended in the battle for God and man, until 
 age has dimmed his sight and unstrung his sinews, — we 
 feel like saying : — " Servant of God well done," enter the 
 rest. But when we see one who has just girded on the 
 armor, has just perfected himself in the use of " the sword 
 of the spirit," and whose soul and body are both aflame 
 with zeal and love, and has just stepped to the front a rec- 
 ognized leader in God's host — when we see such a one fall 
 in the very beginning of a struggle where their help seems 
 to be so much needed, our human hearts are rent with con- 
 flicting emotions and questionings. Why this strange 
 providence ? Why are the strong and valiant taken, and
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEX. 28o 
 
 the Spent and useless left? To the human eye it seemed 
 that a wide and effectual door was just fully opened, and 
 her step was upon the threshold, when the messenger ar- 
 rested her, " the Master hath need of thee," and bore her 
 away to the portals of light. But the Father knows best. 
 
 But this is not the first instance where a life that was 
 l)rief, but full of glorious promise, has brought inestimable 
 blessings to the church. The influence of such lives are 
 not measured by days and years, or material results. The 
 public ministry of Jesus was ended in three brief years. 
 The zeal of Martyn and Brainerd wore out their frail 
 bodies in a few years, but when will their influence perish? 
 There are some blades so keen-edged that they soon cut 
 through the sheath. 
 
 After all there is a sad side to the thought of living till 
 one's work is done. Whatever is incomjyleie is of course 
 but partial, and the ineom])lete has always uku'C in it by 
 its possibilities and its suggestions than the finished has by 
 its actualities. As a rule those whose work is best and 
 longest in the world, are those Avho were cut off' with their 
 work unfinished — what they did do was so full of sugges- 
 tions and expectations of what they were to do, that their 
 glorified memory remains an example and an inspiration 
 beyond all that their completed work could have been 
 " It is the broken c(^lumn, rather than the capj)ed one that 
 marks the grave of him whose life is still a power in the 
 world." 
 
 It only remains for me to give a brief summary of Mrs. 
 GiflTen's character and work, as a woman, wife, mother and 
 missionary. 
 
 Those who have read these pages attentively will have 
 seen that she was distinguished for an intellect strong, com- 
 prehensive and piercing, almost masculine in its robustness ;
 
 284 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 yet she was never uufeininiue. To this vigorous and acute 
 intellect she added all the tender and attractive graces of 
 a pure and refined woman. Her mind was full and well 
 rounded — developed in every direction, and symmetrical in 
 every part, enabling her to excel in whatever she under- 
 took. It was so thoroughly under the control of her will 
 that she could fix it on any given subject and hold it there 
 for any desired period, and to the exclusion of other 
 thoughts and subjects. This habit, gained early in life 
 proved of great value, enabling her to concentrate every 
 energy upon the work just in hand, and ensuring speedy 
 and thorough work. 
 
 She seemed to read character by intuitioii, whether in 
 in man or woman. Her first judgment of one's character 
 rarely needed revision. Her warning, often given the 
 writer, " beware of such a one," generally needed only time 
 to vindicate its correctness. By the same faculty she W'as 
 enabled to discover those whose qualities fitted them to 
 become the truest and highest type of a friend — and of 
 this latter class she could count very numy. 
 
 That she was a very close ob-ierver is manifest in her 
 varied correspondence. Whatever claimed her attention 
 Avas grasped even in its minutest details, and when her pen 
 was taken up for its description, every liuament and fea- 
 ture stood forth as faithfully and vividly as on the painter's 
 canvas. In this faculty lay one of the elements of her 
 poAver as a writer. 
 
 In power of xdll and high resolve she was very superior. 
 Of this trait of her character an abler pen has said : "Dif- 
 ficulties which would have appeared insuperable, even to 
 adventurous man vanished before her unconquerable reso- 
 lution. She was ready for every emergency, and she 
 allowed no disappointment to check her ardor, or quench
 
 MKS. MARY OAI.T.OWAV CTrPKX. 285 
 
 her zeal. Her whole life reveals this element of her 
 character. Whether she is solving some problem in math- 
 ematics, or traveling in the wilds of Texas, or mastering 
 the forms of idioms of the Arabic, there is the same deter- 
 termination never to yield." 
 
 There must be fJioroiu/Jnie.^.f in all that she did, if it 
 could approximate her standard. Half-work and half-way 
 measures found no hivor at her hands. Of that monstrous 
 lanafuace — the Arabic — " a steei) and hiiih mountain," and 
 one rarely climbed by a woman, she said, " I am determined 
 to o-et it with the beM of f/w men.'' AVhere there was such a 
 will there was a way. 
 
 Her speech and actions were the very embodiment of 
 frajihtess and cfoidor. Direct and transparent in all ln-r 
 motives and aims, deception and evasion constituted no 
 pai't of the means chosen by her to gain an end. Double- 
 dealing and deceit in othei-s, she heartily despised. To 
 what was low or even ([uestionable in its tendency, she 
 never stooped. Hence her standard of a man or woman 
 was very exalted — so exalted that few ever attained it, — 
 yet that standard she ever tried to attain. 
 
 Her temperament was ardent and hopeful, and at times 
 almost sanguine. This disposition served as a buoy, even 
 in the most depressing circumstances. The hope of ulti- 
 mate success was ever strong within her, and the anticipa- 
 tion of coming hapi)iness took away the sting of present 
 grief and failure. The motto of her life might well have 
 been "trust in (irod and hope for the future." 
 
 To one thus variously gifted, it would only l)e natural to 
 expect that her feelings and emotions would be quick, vivid 
 and powerful : nor are we disappointed. If she ever hated 
 any one her friends never knew it. But of the existence 
 and power of every other feeling and emotion which noble
 
 286 LIFE AND LETTI7RS OF 
 
 natures may have, there was abimdaiit and ahnost daily 
 evidence. 
 
 She was generous and large-hearted almost to a fault. To 
 be doing some kind act for another, seemed to be a necessity 
 of her being, and her Avarm and affectionate nature was 
 shown in the many ways she tried to make others comfort- 
 able and happy, and she seemed able to create ways 
 in which to accomplish this. She lived for others: of her- 
 self she thought little and spoke less. There Avere few 
 things which she possessed that were too valuable or too 
 precious to be withheld from a friend. If she enjoyed a 
 rare privilege and it could be shared with a friend, the 
 pleasure was doubled. When she was crossing the Conti- 
 nent, and was permitted to visit the famous galleries and 
 museums of London and Paris, to see the ruins of the Col- 
 liseum and the priceless treasures of the Viftican in Rome, 
 she says, " It hurt me so, that none of you could see them 
 all with us, so I bi-ought some pictures that you might 
 gain some faint idea of what the real sio-ht Avas." 
 
 But it Avas Avhen these feelings and sympathies Avere 
 turned upon the members of her oAvn finnily, that they 
 found their freest scope and most intense activity. For 
 their comfort and happiness all the resources of hand and 
 brain Avere exhausted. She Avas never too busy, or too tired 
 to sit doAvn by brother or sister, and help their little puz- 
 zled brain and unraA'el some— to them— great difficulty ; 
 and not of constraint, but Avillingly, and in such a sisterly 
 Avay that remaining difficulties seemed half lessened. In 
 every Avay, nameless here, because innumerable, her pure 
 and single-minded devotion manifested itself, until her 
 loA-e for them had kindled in them an affection inferior 
 only to her own. As the heart of the Jew turned to Jeru- 
 salem. " If I forget thee, O ! Jerusalem, let my right hand 
 forget her cunning. If I do not remember thee, let mv
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY OTFFLX. 28 7 
 
 tongue cleave to the roof of my mouth." So turned her 
 heart to her fathei-'s house, and when the hour of parting 
 came she said, " I experienced what it was to die." Few 
 brothers ever had such a sister, and few parents, a more 
 h)ving and affectionate child. After the law of the Ciod, 
 their wishes were the guide of her life. 
 
 The Writer would be unjust to the memory of a devoted 
 sister, and false to his own feelings, if he did not here put 
 on record his oAvn obligations to Mrs. Giffen. Not many 
 months before her death he wi-ote to her in these words : 
 " I do not know how long you or I may live, but before 
 the end comes, I wish to tell yon something of how much 
 I owe to you. 1 know that father and mother did all for 
 me that parents could do for any child. But I now feel 
 that if I ever succeed in life, or do any thing in life, either 
 for myself or others, that I owe much of it to your efforts 
 and your inspiration. I want to thank you for it." 
 
 To all this she simply answered, " If I was ever of service 
 to you, you may be sure it was a willing and loving ser- 
 vice, — and that was all. But he is glad that the ac- 
 knowledgment was made while she was on this bank of the 
 river and could make answer. 
 
 Doubtless the happiest period of j\Irs. Giffen's life was 
 the five and a half years of her married life. The love of 
 a husband, whom she honored and revered, and the sweet 
 prattle of her own children, filled up every vacant niche 
 in her great affection, and completed the sum of earthly 
 happiness. A few months before her death, when she was 
 teaching in the girls' school, and superintending two day 
 schools, she said, " I am never so happy as when after a 
 day's hard work and I am on my donkey going home to 
 as good a kind husband and loving little children as I 
 have, even if it is a poor sliabby home I have to go to." 
 
 How well she filled the position of wife and mother will
 
 288 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 be seen from this extract i'roin a jirivate letter of Mr. Gif- 
 fen's : "No one could read lier letters without knowing 
 that she was giving her wliole soul to her duties ; that she 
 was as loving and devoted a wife and mother as it was 
 possible for a woman to be ; that she was self-denying, en- 
 tirely forgetful of personal comfort in trying to comfort 
 and help others. tShe never had a fear for herself. Her 
 care was alwavs for me and the darlinn' children. How 
 she worked and prayed for us. It seems hard that the lit- 
 tle ones, dearer to her than life, can never know what an 
 unbounded wealth of affection has been taken away from 
 them. A truer woman never loved a man ; few are capa- 
 ble of loving like she did ; fcAv are ca])able of helping like 
 she helped. She had become my ideal of a woman before 
 we were mai-ried ; but the longer we were together the 
 more of her true worth did I feel." 
 
 "As you say, I always had a feeling of safetij when in 
 her presence. She was one in \\honi I could repose all 
 confidence. When I was doing what she approved, I felt 
 that I was acting a prudent ])art. When I would be cast 
 down and everything seemed to have its dark side turned 
 toward me, she was the one to cheer me up, and that with- 
 out appearing to try to do so. We both seemed to feel 
 that so long as Ave had each other, we had enough with 
 which to be satisfied, so far as this world is concerned. I 
 never before so nearly felt that the sliortness of life was a 
 thing for which to be thankful." 
 
 Her children, like herself, had most aftectionate dispo- 
 sitions, and in their measure returned their mother's devo- 
 tion. Bruce, a child of three, and a half years at his 
 mother's death, often lavished his kisses and caresses on 
 his mamma in an extravagant way. Whenever he en- 
 tered the room in which she was, he Wduld run to her and
 
 MRS. MARY fJALLOWAY CITFFF.N. 289 
 
 place his hands about her neck and say, "Manuiia, T love 
 you, do you love me ?" over and again. 
 
 In the last attack of ophtlialniia, through which she 
 nursed him, he lay for days in a darkened room, and per- 
 fectly blind, his mother sitting by him. He could not see 
 her, but he could talk to her, and twenty times a day he 
 would say, "Mamma, I love yon," as if he so longed to 
 hear the response, "Yes, my child, I love yon." 
 
 When she started to Cairo on her last journey, Bruce 
 was left behind, and did not know fjr three weeks that his 
 dear mother would never caress him again. Once in a few 
 days after his father's retui-n, he sat very still for some 
 minutes, and then turned to his father with the heart-rend- 
 ing question, "Papa, where /••< mamma?" He answered 
 that " the Lord had taken her to a nice home He had made 
 for her," " I go see her some day ? " " Yes, if you are a good 
 boy," and Mr. Giffen adds, " I hope to be able to teach him, 
 in a practical way, before I leave Egypt, what death and 
 heaven mean, and what that lone grave by the river is.' 
 
 It is a connuonly received ojiinion, and one often founded 
 on fact, that a woman of high literary abilities and tastes, 
 is apt to be so engrossed in such pursuits, that the ordinary 
 prosaic duties and drudgeries of domestic life are neg- 
 lected. But M]-s. Giffen was as distinguished for " sound 
 common sense," as for, perhaps, anything else. When the 
 engrossing cares and duties of mission labor were not 
 pressing, her time and energy were devoted to her house- 
 hold affairs. These were carefully superintended, and in 
 all details managed with economy and energy. Her early 
 training had given her a thorough knowledge of domestic 
 economy, and " she looked well to the ways of her house." 
 She was a most accomplished needle-woman, and there 
 was no article of dress, either for herself, her husband or 
 children which she did not or could not manufacture. But
 
 290 LIFE AND LETTERS OF 
 
 at the same time it must be understood that she regarded 
 misalon work in all its branches as the supreme duty of her 
 life, and to this all other things were made subservient — 
 even the duty she owed to her Inisband and children being 
 no exception. 
 
 In mission circles in Egypt, her industry and worth 
 seemed to have been fully appreciated. Dr. Hogg, one of 
 her associate missionaries, and of whom she often wrote, thus 
 speaks of the high promise which she gave of her future 
 usefulness : " From what I saw of Mrs. GifFen and her 
 work, first during the two months that I had the pleasure 
 of assisting her in her first lessons in Arabic, and after- 
 wards during four years of associated labor at the same 
 station, it is my earnest conviction that had her life been 
 prolonged and leisure been granted her in the midst of her 
 increasing family cares, to devote herself in the future — as 
 in the past — to the work so dear to her heart, the record 
 of her life-work would have had few to match it in the 
 history of modern missions." 
 
 " Her heart was in her work and she gave herself wholly 
 to it. Prostrated from an excruciating headache, as she 
 often was after an exciting and protracted mental eftbrt or 
 stram, she must be up and at work as soon as the crisis 
 was over. By an act of self-determination she seemed to 
 be able to shake ott' all languor and exhaustion, and resume 
 her full quota of work, from the first day of her eonvales- 
 ence. Not only did she forget herself in the ardor of her 
 zeal, but sometimes she seemed to forget those who were 
 dearer than self. Loving her children with a doting affection, 
 yet the cases were very rare in which she allowed the sick- 
 ness of a child to interfere with her daily work in the school." 
 
 " She was prepared for useful and efficient service in al- 
 most any department of missionary work. 
 
 To instruct a native audience, one must not only know
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY OIFFEN. 291 
 
 their language, but ako their mode of thiuking. Unless 
 you are able to take their standpoint, and look at the 
 subject through their eyes, you will fail to throw much 
 light on it although your remarks may be made in the pur- 
 est Arabic. 
 
 Mrs. Giffen seemed to me, to be gifted with a special aj)- 
 titude for putting herself e» rapjiort ^v'lth a native audience. 
 Her nature was sympathetic, and her power of percejjtion 
 was such that she seemed to guess at the tenor and color 
 of your thoughts by a kind of intuition." 
 
 " She not only loved mission work, but by dint of intense 
 application became qualified for taking a leading part in 
 it. She also had very enlightened ideas of mission policy, 
 and above all, was possessed of a strong faith in the ulti- 
 mate success of missions in the world. Like most mission- 
 aries, who have been blessed with success in their eflJbrts to 
 extend the kingdom of Christ on earth, she based her con- 
 fidence of the ultimate success of the cause, on the fact 
 that this is the very thing which God the Father pledged, 
 when He exalted His Son in human form to His own risrht 
 hand. " I will give Thee the heathen for thine inheritance, 
 and the uttermost parts of the earth for thy possession." 
 Believing this your sister exjiecied success in her labors in 
 this land." 
 
 When the church, here in America, sent Mrs. Giffen 
 forth — its first messenger to the heathen world — it had 
 high hopes centered in her and her work. It felt that it 
 had no worthier daughter to send upon this mission, and 
 that in giving her, it had offered its choicest treasure, and 
 this feeling continued, without abatement, to the end. 
 
 Prof. E. L. Patton, in a recent missionary address, thus 
 voices this universal sentiment : " It was the remark of 
 a distinguished Carolinian, that if the South Carolina Col- 
 lege had done nothing more than educate one such man as
 
 292 LIFE AND LETTERS OP 
 
 George McDuffie, the State would have been amply repaid 
 for every dollar expended in establishing and maintaining 
 that institution. And I do not hesitate to say that if the 
 Due West Female College had sent forth from her walls 
 only one such woman as IMiss Mary E. Galloway, this insti- 
 tution would have been entitled to the lasting gratitude ol' 
 the Associate Reform Church, in the South, of which she 
 was the pioneer missionary in the foreign field. — 'Dux 
 femmafacfl.' " 
 
 AVhile we are tilled with keen regrets, when we think of 
 the sjilendid possibilities which Mrs. Gifien's future seemed 
 to warrant, still the review of her life shows us much for 
 which we can thank God, and take courage. We see in 
 her case a signal proof of the fact, that " the stuff of which 
 martyrs are made" is still in the church. 
 
 To those who appreciate unselfish devotion, high moral 
 heroism and the consecration of eminent gifts to the cause 
 of God and humanity, her name and memory will ever be 
 precious. Her character and example will ever serve as a 
 model for the woman who would cast her life in a high 
 and heroic mould. 
 
 Her husband is still left the memory of a true and loving 
 wife, her children the legacy of a Christian mother's pray- 
 ers, and the church the inspiration and power of a noble 
 self-sacrificing life. 
 
 For her own sake — however sharp the pang to the 
 living — we would not grieve. For hath not the Master 
 said, "Every one that hath forsaken houses, or brethren, 
 or sisters, or father, or mother, or wife, or children, cr 
 lands for my name's sake, shall receive a hundred fold, and 
 shall inherit everlasting life." If God fuUfillshis promises, 
 then surely hers will be no mean crown. 
 
 THE END.
 
 MRS. MARY GALLOWAY GIFFEX. 298 
 
 S O N N E T IS. 
 
 A TRIBUTE TO TIIK MEMORY OF MRS. MARY G. GIFFEK, THE PIOXEER 
 MISSIONARY OF THE ASSOCIATE REFORMED PRESBY- 
 TERIAN CHVRCH IN THE SOUTH. 
 
 Dux feiiiiiia facti. 
 
 Virrjil. 
 
 Chi vuol veder qiiantunque pud natura 
 E'l ciel tra noi, venga a niirar custei. 
 
 -retrmch. 
 
 Hearken, O daughter, and consider, and incline tiiine ear; forget 
 alfro thine own peojde, and thy fatlier's liou^e. 
 
 —r.^alm 45: 10. 
 
 I. 
 
 Another name is added to tiie roll 
 
 Of noble women, who with faith suliiinie 
 
 A fatlier's house forget in sonic strange clime 
 
 Beyond the sea, and with undaunted soul 
 Explore the trackless waste, or forest drear, 
 
 Bearding the Hon in his very den, 
 
 Or tiger tierce, or still more savage men. 
 To bring the tidings of salvation near : 
 
 Though weak, yet strong, a glorious sisterhood. 
 In body weak, but strong in faith, and love, 
 And bright-eyed hope ; as when the tiuKirous deve. 
 
 Back to the ark, across the rolling tlood, 
 Sped like an eagle hastening to the prey, 
 
 As in her mouth she bore the (dive leaf awav.
 
 294 LIFE AND LETTERS. 
 
 II. 
 
 X(it (lead, Init sleeping ! and thy silent power 
 Tlie world shall own, when yonder stately pile, 
 Which towers in solenm grandenr o'er the Nile, 
 
 Shall vanish like the pageant of an hour ; 
 When she, whose beauty dazzled every eye. 
 
 And lured the haughty Roman to his fate, 
 
 A willing victim, robbed of all her state, 
 Shall unlaniented and forgotten lie :-^ 
 
 Then take thy rest, our honored pi(meer, 
 All undisturbed amid llie deafening roar 
 Of hostile guns that shake the neighboring shore, 
 
 And blanch the cheek of swarthy Copt with fear ; 
 For thou must sleep until (he Bridegroom come, 
 
 And ojien wide for thee thine everlasting liome ! 
 
 E. L. p. 
 Jubj 24, 1882. 
 
 * Cleopatra, queen of Egypt. 
 
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