''{m//^. ER'S GUIDE BOOKS. IITAIN, ^\ith 14 Maps and 24 Plans. IbST. ID ITS iiiNVlKUJNfc;, with 3 Maps and til Ktliiiou. Ibt9. .(jiUM AUD tluLLAiSi), with 12 Maps and 2| ^'inth iLdilion. IbfcB. tj marks. THE KflilSiji fKOJA liOTTERDAM TO Cois STANCE ^THE SeVEN iloLNTAINS, iUoSKLLt, \ ULCANIL! i'-IlKL, \ OSliKS JUTS., iSl^AOli X' UKKbX, etc.j, witli oGjVlapa ana ^'iPlaus. ElevenitiEclitiuu. la&9. b marks. NOKTHEKPs liEKMA^iY, with 32 Maps and 42 Plans. NintU Edition, ioati. 7 marks, SOUTHi:.KN GEKMANY AND AUSTRIA, including Hun- gary AND Transylvania, with 14 Maps and 30 Plans. Sixth Ediiion. I5b7. 7 marks. THE EAbTEKiS ALPS, including the Bavarian High- lands, Tyrol, Salzkammergut, etc. with 34 Maps, 12 Flans, and 7 Panoramas, fcixth Edition, 1^88. S marks. GREECE, with G Maps, 14 Plans and a Panorama of Athens. 1889. lU marks, NORTHERN ITALY, including Florence and the Is- land OF Corsica, and routes to ItALX through FkaNCK, ftW ITZER- LANU, etc, with 16 Maps and 29 Plans. Seventh Edition. I88b. 6 marks. CENTRAL ITALY and ROME, with 8 Maps, 31 Plans, and a Panorama of Rome. Ninth Edition. 1886. 6 marks. SOUTHERN ITALY, SICILY, and Excursions to the LiPARi Islands, Tunis (Carthage), Sardinia, Malta, and Corfu, with 26 Maps and 17 Plans, is'inth Edition. 1887. 6 marks. NORWAY AND SWEDEN, with 23 Maps and 13 Plans. Fourth Edition, 1889. 9 marks. PARIS AND ITS ENVIRONS, with Routes from London TO Paris, and from Paris to the Rhine and Switzerland, With 9 Maps and 30 Plans, Mnth Edition. 1888. 6 marks, NORTHERN FRANCE, with 9 Maps and 25 Plans. Ibb9. 7 marks, SWITZERLAND, and the adjacent Parts of Italy, Savoy, and the Tyrol, with 38 Maps, ll Plans, and 11 Panoramas. Thirteenth Edition. 1889. 8 marks. liOWER EGYPT, with the Fayum and the Peninsula of Sinai, with 16 Maps, 30 Plans, 7 Views, and 76 Vignettes. Second ion. 1885. 16 marks. 'INE AND SYRIA, with 18 Maps, 43 Plar Jerusalem, and lU Views. 1876. :eller's manual of converse lERMAN, FsKHOH, AND ITALIAN. ■ July 1889. - 9> rrATT,. "^"^ LIBRARY mVERSlTY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELKS N s k. UAILM AY MAP : Senlr '• ^-^^B 1 : LSOn.ooo ■:>.:. - - • - LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS. HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS BY K. BAEDEKER. WITH 3 MAPS AND 15 PLANS. SEVENTH REVISED EDITION. LEIPSIC : KARL BAEDEKER, PUBLISHER. LONDON: DULAU AND CO., 37 SOHO SQUARE, W, 1889. All rights resei'ved. 'Go, little book, God send thee good passage, And specially let this be thy prayere Unto them all that thee will read or hear. Where thou art wrong, after their help to call, Thee to correct in any part or all.' UNIVERSri i,o THE LIBRARY 679 PREFACE. The chief object of the Handbook for London, like that of the Editors other European and Oriental guide-books, is to enable tlie traveller so to employ his time , his money, and his energy, that he may derive the greatest possible amount of pleasure and instruction from his visit to the greatest city in the modern world. As several excellent English guide-books to London al- ready existed , the Editor in 1878 published the first English edition of the present Handbook with some hesitation , not- withstanding the encouragement he received from numerous English and American correspondents , who were already familiar with the distinctive characteristics of 'Baedeker's Handbooks', So favourable a reception, however, was accord- ed to the first edition that the issue of a second became ne- cessary in little more than a year, while a third, a fourth, a fifth, a sixth, and a seventh have since been called for. The present volume embodies the most recent information, down to the month of July, 1889, obtained in the course of personal visits to the places described, and from the most trustworthy sources. In the preparation of the Handbook the Editor has re- ceived most material assistance from several English friends who are intimately acquainted with their great Metropolis. His grateful acknowledgments are specially due to the Eev. Robert Gwynne, B. A., who has contributed numerous val- uable corrections and interesting historical and topogra- phical data. Particular attention has been devoted to the description of the great public collections, such as the National Gallery, the British Museum, and the South Kensington Museum, to all of which the utmost possible space has been allotted. The accounts of the pictures in the National Gallery, Buckingham Palace, Hampton Court, the Duhvich Gallery, and the various private collections , are from the pen of Dr. Jean Paul RiCHTER of Florence. The Introduction , which has purposely been made as comprehensive as possible , is intended to convey all the in- iv PREFACE. formation, preliminary, historical, and practical, which is best calculated to make a stranger feel at home in London, and to familiarise him with its manners and customs. While the de- scriptive part of the work is topographically arranged, so that the reader may see at a glance which of the sights of London may be visited together, the introductory portion classifies the principal sights according to their subjects, in order to present the reader with a convenient index to their char- acter , and to facilitate his selection of those most congenial to his taste. As, however, it has not been the Editor's pur- pose to write an exhaustive account of so stupendous a city, but merely to describe the most important objects of general interest contained in it, he need hardly observe that the in- formation required by specialists of any kind can onl)' be given to a very limited extent in the present work. The most noteworthy sights are indicated by asterisks. The list of Hotels and Restaurants enumerated in the Handbook comprises the most important establishments and many of humbler pretension. Those restaurants which the Editor believes to be most worthy of commendation are denot- ed by asterisks. The same system, however, has not been extended to the hotels , those enumerated in the Handbook being generally unexceptionable. The hotels at the West End and at the principal railway-stations are the most expen- sive, while the inns in the less fashionable quarters of the Metropolis generally afford comfortable accommodation at moderate charges. The Maps and Plans, upon which the utmost care has been bestowed, will also, it is hoped, be found serviceable. Those relating to London itself (one clue-map, one large plan, four special plans of the most important quarters of the city, and a railway plan) have been specially revised for this edition, and are placed at the end of the volume in a separate cover, which may if desired be severed from the Handbook altogether. The subdivision of the Plan of the city into three sections of different colours will be found greatly to facilitate reference, as it obviates the necessity of unfolding a large sheet of paper at each consultation. The Routes to places of interest in the Environs of London, although very brief , will probably suffice for the purposes of an ordinary visit. Some of the longer excursions that appeared in earlier editions have now been transferred to Baedeker' s Handhook to Great Britain. CONTENTS. Introduction. Page 1. Money. Expenses. Season. Passports. Custom House. Time 1 2. Routes to and from London. Arrival 2 3. Hotels. Boarding Houses. Private Lodgings 6 4. Restaurants. Dining Rooms. Oyster Shops. Confectioners 11 5. Cafes. Billiard Rooms 16 6. Reading Rooms. Libraries. Newspapers 17 7. Baths 18 8. Shops, Bazaars, and Markets. The Co-operative System 19 9. Cabs. Omnibuses. Tramways. Coaches 28 10. Railways 32 11. Steamboats 38 12. Theatres 39 13. Concerts and other Amusements 43 14. Races, Sports, and Games 46 15. Embassies and Consulates. Bankers 49 16. Divine Service 50 17. Post and Telegraph Offices. Parcels Companies. Com- missionnaires. Lady Guides 53 18. Outline of English History 56 19. Historical Sketch of London 62 20. Topography and Statistics 66 21. General Hints 71 22. Guilds. Charities. Societies. Clubs 72 23. Preliminary Ramble 75 24. Disposition of Time 78 25. Books relating to London 80b Sights of London. I. The City. 1. St. Paul's Cathedral 81 2. General Post Office. Christ's Hospital. Newgate, Hol- born 90 Paternoster Re West End from Hyde Park and Belgravia to the Thames. 9. Railway Map of London. 10. St. Paurs Cathedral, p. 83; 11. the Tower, p. 119 5 12. Houses of Par- liament, between pp. 184 and 185; 13. Westminster Abbey, p. 194; 14. Zoological Gardens, between pp. 22S and 229; 15. British Museum, between pp. 232 and 233; 16. South Kensington Museum (two sections), pp. 276 and 285; 17. Crystal Palace, p. 306; 18. Windsor Castle, p. 336. Abbreviations. M. = Engl, mile; hr. = hour; min. = minute; r. = right; 1. = left; N. = north, northwards, northern; S. = south, etc.; E. = east, etc.; W. = west, etc.; R. = room; B. = breakfast; D. = dinner; A. = at- tendance; L. = light. The letter d, with a date, after a name indicates the year of the person's death. Asterisks are used as marks of commendation. INTRODUCTION. 1. Money. Expenses. Season. Passports. Custom House. Time. Money. In England alone of the more important states oi Eu- rope the currency is arranged without much reference to the decimal system. The ordinary English Gold coins are the sovereign or pound (I. = livre) equal to 20 shillings, and the half-sovereign. The Silver coins are the crown (5 shillings), the half-crown, tlie florin (2 shillings), the shilling (s.), and the six-penny and three- penny pieces. The Bronze coinage consists of the penny (d., Lat. denarius), of which 12 make a shilling, the halfpenny, and the farthing OA^O- The Guinea, a sum of 21s., though still used in reckoning, is no longer in circulation as a coin. A sovereign is ap- proximately equal to 5 American dollars, 25 francs, 20 German marks, or 10 Austrian florins (gold). The Bank of England issues notes for 5,10, 20, 50, and 100 pounds, and upwards. These arc useful in paying large sums; but for ordinary use, as change is not always readily procured, gold is preferable. The number of each note should be taken down in a pocket-book, for tlie purpose, in tlie event of its being lost or stolen, of stopping payment of it at the Bank, and thus possibly recovering it. Foreign Money does not cir- culate in England, and should always be exchanged on arrival. French copper coins , though still occasionally met with in Lon- don, are liable to refusal. A convenient and safe mode of carrying money from America or the Continent is in the shape of letters of credit, or circular notes, which are readily procurable at the principal banks. A larger sum than will suffice for the day's ex- penses should never be carried on the person , and gold and silver coins of a similar size (e.g. sovereigns and shillings) should not be kept in the same pocket. Expenses. Tlie cost of a visit to London depends of course on the habits and tastes of the traveller. If he lives in a first-class hotel, dines at the table d'hote, drinks wine, frequents the theatre and other places of amusement, and drives about in cabs or flys instead of using the economical train or omnibus, he must be prepared to spend 30-40s. a day or upwards. Persons of moderate requirements, however, will have little difficulty, with the aid of the information in the Handbook, in living comfortably and seeing the principal sights of London for an expenditure of 15-20.'!. a day or even less. Season. The 'London Season' is chiefly comprised within the Bakdkker, Loudon. 7th Edit, 1 2 2. PASSAGE. months of May, June, and July, when Parliament is sitting, the aristocracy are at their town residences, the greatest artistes in the world are performing at the Opera, and the Picture Exhibitions open. Families who desire to obtain comfortable accommodation had better be in London to secure it by the end of April ; single travellers can, of course, more easily find lodgings at any time. Passports. These documents are not necessary in England, tliough occasionally useful in procuring delivery of registered and poste restante letters (comp. p. 53). A visa is quite needless. Ameri- can travellers, who intend to proceed from London to the Continent, should provide themselves with passports before leaving home. Passports, however, may also be obtained by personal application at the American Consulate in London (p. 49 ). The visa of the American ambassador, and that of the minister in London of the country to which the traveller is about to proceed, are sometimes necessary. Custom House. Almost the only articles likely to be in the possession of ordinary travellers on which duty is charged are spirits and tobacco, but a flask of the former and 72^^- of the latter are allowed for private use. Three pounds of tobacco may be passed on payment of a duty of 5s. per pound, and (in the case of cigars) a slight fine for the contravention of the law forbidding the importa- tion of cigars in chests of fewer than 10,000. Foreign reprints of copyright English books are liable to confiscation. The custom- house examination is generally lenient. Time. Uniformity of time throughout the country is maintained by telegraphic communication with Greenwich Observatory (p. 303). 2. Routes to and from London. Arrival. It may not be out of place here to furnish a list of the principal oceanic routes between the New World and England, and also to indicate how Transatlantic visitors may continue their European travels by passing from London to the Continent. An enumeration of the routes between the Continent of Europe and London may also prove serviceable to foreigners coming in the reverse direction. It should, however, be borne in mind that the times and fares mentioned in our list are liable to alteration. Routes to England from the United States of America and Canada. The traveller has abundant room for choice in tlie mat- ter of his oceanic passage, the steamers of any of the following companies affording comfortable accommodation and speedy transit. Inman Line. Every AVednesday from New York to Liverpool. Cabin 80, 90, or 110 dollars; return-ticket (available for 12 months) 130 or 150 dollars. From Liverpool also every Wednesday. Fare 12-50f. ; return 22-90L The finest steamers of this line are the City of New York and the City of Paris, the latter of which made the quickest passage on record from land to land (5 days, 23 hrs.. 2. PASSAGE. iS 7 min.) in May, 1889. London offices, 13 Pall Mall. S.W., and Eives and Allen, 99 Cannon Street, E.G. Cunard Line. A steamer of this company starts every Satur- day and every second Wednesday from New York and every Satur- day from Boston for Queenstown and Liverpool. Cabin fare 60, 80, 100, or 125 dollars, according to accommodation ; return-ticket (available for 12 months) 120, 144, 180, or 220 dollars. Steamers from Liverpool for New York every Saturday and every second Tuesday, for Boston every Thursday. Fare 12, 15, 18, or 21 guineas, or 26i. ; return-ticket 25, 30 , or 35 guineas, or Abl. The Etruria and the Umbria are considered the best Cunarders. The former hehl the record for the quickest ocean passage before the above- mentioned feat of the Inman liner. London offices at 6 St. Helen's I 'lace, Bishopsgate Street, and 28 Pall Mall. Wliite Star Line. Steamer every alternate Wednesday from New York to Queenstown and Liverpool. Cabin 60 or 140 dollars ; steerage 20 dollars. From Liverpool to New York every Wednes- day. Cabin 12-22i, , return (available for one year) 24-40i. ; second cabin 7-8Z. The Germanic and Britannic are at present the largest vessels of this line , but two fine new steamers , the Majestic and Teutcnic, will very soon be added to the White Star fleet. London office, 34 Leadenhall Street, E.C. American Steamship Company. From Philadelphia to Liverpool every Thursday, and from Liverpool to Philadelphia every Wednes- day. Cabin 10 to 18^s. ; return-ticket 20 to 30ys.; intermediate 6/. London office, Keller, Wallis, & Co.. 5 and 7 Fenchurch Street, E.C. North German Lloyd Line. Between New York and Southampton twice weekly; first saloon 16-23i., second saloon iOl. lOs. and 13L From New Orleans to Southampton, and vice versa, once a month ; cabin 155, steerage 40 dollars. The newest and finest boats of this company are the Trave , Lahn, Saale, and Aller. London offices, 5 & 7 P'enchurch Street, E. C, and 32 Cockspur Street, W.C. National Steamship Company. Steamers from Liverpool and also from London direct to New York every Wednesday. Cabin fare 8-15^,s. ; returns at reduced rates. From New York to Liver- pool every Saturday, and from New^ York to London weekly. Cabin 50 to 100 dollars. London offices at 36 Leadenhall Street and 57 Charing Cross. Anchor Line. Steamer between Liverpool and New York montlily. Saloon 12-25^.; returns 22-44^. Also weekly mail -steamer be- tween New York and Glasgow. Saloon from 9^s., second cabin 6^5., steerage 4^ London address , Henderson Brothers, 18 Leadenhall Street, E. C, and 8 Regent Street, S. W. Allan Line. From Liverpool every Thursday to Halifax and Portland, and every alternate Tuesday to St. John's, Halifax, and Baltimore. Saloon 10- 18(/s.; intermediate 6j;.'«. London address, 103 Leadenhall Street. Also to New York weekly (Wilson Hill Line). 1* 4 2. PASSAGE. Gulon Line. Weekly steamers between New York and Liver- pool. Cabin fare 10-25^.; cMldren under 12 years, half-fare. London office, 5 Waterloo Place. State Line. Weekly steamers between New York and Glasgow. Saloon 6 to 8gs. Dominion Line. Weekly steamers from Liverpool to Halifax and Portland ; fortnightly from and to Bristol. Saloon 10-1 5(/s. ; intermediate Qgs. London address, Sewell & Crowther, 18 Cockspiir Street, W.C. Monarch Line. Regular communication between London and New York. Saloon 12 or 15^5. ; second cabin 7gs.] steerage Al. 6s. Office, 6 Fenchurch Avenue, E.G. Great Western Steamship Line. Regular communication between Bristol and New York, and Bristol and Montreal. Saloon 12ps. ; return 21^s. The average duration of the passage across the Atlantic is 7-10 days. The hest time for crossing is in summer. Passengers should pack cloth- ing and other necessaries for the voyage in small boxes or portmanteaus, such as can lie easily in the cabin, as all bulky luggage is stowed away in the hold. State-room trunks should not exceed 3 ft. in length, 2 ft. in breadth, and IV2 ft. in height. Dress for the voyage should be of a plain and serviceable description, and it is advisable, even in midsummer, to be provided with warm clothing. A deck-chair, which may be purchased at the dock or on the steamer before sailing (from 7s. upwards), is a luxury that may almost be called a necessary. It may be left in charge of the Steamship Co.'s agents until the return-journey. On going on board, the traveller should apply to the purser or chief steward for seats at table, as the same seats are retained throughout the voyage. It is usual to give a fee of 10s. (21/2 dollars) to the table-steward and to the state-room steward, and small gratuities are also expected by the boot-cleaner, the bath-stew- ard , etc. The state-room steward should not be 'tipped'' until he has brought all the passenger's small baggage safely on to the landing-stage or tender. Landing at Liverpool is generally eifected with the aid of a steam- tender, to which passengers and luggage are transferred from the Trans- atlantic steamer. The passengers remain in a large waiting-room until all the baggage has been placed in the custom-house shed. Here the owner will find his property expeditiously by looking for the initial of his sur- name on the wall. The examination is generally soon over (comp. p. 2). Porters then convey the luggage to a cab (3d. for small articles, 6d. for a large trunk). — Baggage may now be 'expressed' from Xew York to any city in Europe. Agents of the English railway companies, etc., also meet the steamers on arrival at Liverpool and undertake to 'express' baggage on the American system to any address given by the traveller. From Liverpool to London, by railway, the traveller may proceed by the line of one of four different companies (202-238 M. according to route, in 41/0-8 hrs. ; fares by all trains 29s., lis. 9d., I63. 6d. ; no second class by Midland Railway). The Midland Rail- way to St. Pancras runs by Matlock, Derby, and Bedford. The route of the London and North Western Railway (to Euston Square Sta- tion) goes via Crewe and Rugby. By the Great Western Railway to Paddington we may travel either via Chester, Birmingham, War- wick, and Oxford; or via Hereford and Gloucester; or via Wor- cester. Or, lastly, we may take a train of the Great Northern Rail- 2. PASSAGE. 5 way to King's Cross Station, passing Grantham and Pctcrboroiigli (with a fine catliedral^. Sliould the traveller make up his mind to stay overnight in Liverpool he will And any of tlie following hotels comfortable : North Wedern Hotel, Lime Street Station ; Adelpld, near Central Station; (irand, Lime Street; Alexandra, Dale Street ; Laurence's Temperance Hotel, Clayton Square. From Southampton to London, by South Western Railway to Waterloo Station (79 M. in 273-8 hrs.' ; fares 15s. 6d., lis., 6s. Qd.). Hotels at Southampton: South Western; Radleys; Royal; Dolphin. From Plymouth to London, by Great Western Railway to Pad- dington Station, or by South Western Railway to Waterloo Station (247 M., in6V2-llV2hrs. ; fares 46s. 6d., 32s. lOd., 18s. 8d.). Hotels at Plymouth : Grand; Duke of Cornwall; Royal; Harvey's; Globe. For fuller details of these routes, see Baedeker s Great Britain. Routes from England to the Continent. The following are the fa- vourite routes between London and the Continent: — Frum. Dover to Calais thrice a day, in 11/4-1^4 hr. ; cabin 8s. Qd., fore- cabin 63. Qd. (Railway from London to Dover, or vice versa, in 2-4 hra. ; fares 20s. or 18s. Bd., 15s. or 13s. 6ci.. 6s. 9d. or 6.s. 2^/2d.) From Folkestone to Boulogne, twice a day, in 2-3 hrs. •, cabin 85., fore- cabin 6s. (Railway from London to Folkestone in 2-4 hrs. •, fares same as to Dover, except 3rd class, which is 6s.) From Dover to Ostend , thrice a day, in 3-5 hrs.; cabin I5s,, fore- cabin 10s. From London to Boulogne, 5 times weekly, in 10 hrs.; 10s. or 7s. From London to Ostend, twice a week, in 12 hrs. (6 hrs. at sea): 18s. or 14s. From London to Calais, twice a week, in 10 hrs. ; 12s. or 8s. Gd. From London to Rotterdam, thrice a week, in 18-20 hrs. (9-10 hrs. at sea); 20s. or 16s. From Haricich to Rotterdam, dailv (Sundays excepted), in 11-12 hrs. ; railway from London to Harwich in 2-3 hrs. (fares 13s. '6d., 10s., 5s. W/^d.); fare from London to Rotterdam, 26s. or 15s. From London to Antwerp, thrice a week, in 16 hrs. (8-9 hrs. of which are on the open sea) ; 2is. or I65. From Harwich to Antwerp, daily (Sundays excepted), in 12-13 hrs. (train from London to Harwich in 2-3 hrs.); 2os. or 15s. (from London). From Harwich to Hamburg, twice weeklv (Wed. io. 40); Guildhall Dining Rooms (Nos. 81-83), opposite the GuildhaU. City Restaurant, 34 Milk Street. In the Poultry: — *Pimm's (Nos. 3, 4, 5). In Bucklersbury, near the Mansion House : *Reichert''s (Bargen's; No. 4); Lake d.); Fortnum if Mason, 181-183 Piccadilly; Carbonell f Co., 182 Regent Street; G'. Tanqueray iS' Co., 5 Pall Mall East; Basil Woodd f Sons, 34 New Bond Street; Law , Holloway , ^' Co. , 22 Finch Lane , City ; Payne f Sons, 26 8. BAZAARS. 61 St. James s Street. Most of the best-known continental wine- firms have agencies in London, the addresses of which may be ascertained from the Post Office Directory. Claret and other wines may also be obtained from most of the grocers. Bazaars. These emporiums afford pleasant covered walks between rows of shops abundantly stocked with all kinds of attrac- tive and useful articles. The most important are the Soho Bazaar, 4-7 Soho Square and 58 Oxford Street ; Baker Street Bazaar , 58 Baker Street; Opera Colonnade^ adjoining Her Majesty's Theatre, Haymarket; Burlington Arcade, Piccadilly; Lowther Arcade, Strand (chiefly for toys and other articles at moderate prices) ; Royal Arcade, 28 Old Bond Street. — Among these the Soho Bazaar is facile princeps. It has been in existence for half a century, and is conducted on very strict principles. A rental of twelve shillings per week is paid for each stall; some holders rent three ox four contiguous stalls. Markets. The immense market traffic of London Is among the most interesting andimpressive sights of the Metropolis, and one with which no stranger should fail to make himself acquainted. The chief markets are held at early hours of the morning, when they are visited by vast crowds hastening to supply their commissariat for the day. The chief Vegetable, Fruit, and Flower Market is Covent Garden (p. 180), where all kinds of vegetables, fruits, ornamental plants, and cut flowers are displayed in richest profusion. The best time to visit this market is about sunrise. Billingsgate (p. Ill), the great fish-market, as interesting in its way as Covent Garden, though pervaded by far less pleasant odours, is situated in Lower Thames Street, City, near London Bridge. The covered market is a handsome building lately erected, with an open front towards the street and a fai^ade on the river. Along the quay lie fishing boats, whence the fish are landed in baskets, and sold first to the wholesale, and afterwards to the retail dealers. Oysters and other shell-fish are sold by measure, salmon by weight, and other fish by number. Large quantities of fish are also conveyed to Billingsgate daily by railway; salmon chiefly from Scotland, cod and turbot from the Doggerbank, lobsters from Norway, soles from the German Ocean, eels from Holland, and oysters from the mouth of the Thames and the English Channel. The market commences daily at 5 a. m. Smithfield Market, Newgate Street, City, is the great meat-mar- ket of London. The covered market, opened in 1868, is most ad- mirably fitted up (comp. p. 96). Subterranean lines connect it with the Metropolitan Railway, and thence indirectly with the Me- tropolitan Cattle Market. It was once the chief cattle market of Lon- don, and the famous Bartholomew Fair was held here down to 1853. A large Poultry Market was added to the meat-market in 1876, and Vegetable and Fish Markets have also been built (comp. p. 96). The Metropolitan Cattle Market, Copenhagen Fields, between 8. MARKETS. 27 Islington and Camden Town, is the largest in the world. The prin- cipal markets are held on Mondays and Thursdays, but on other days the traffic is also very considerable. Around the lofty clock tower are grouped a post-office, a telegraph station, banks, an en- quiry office, shops, etc. At the sides are interminable rows of well- arranged stalls for the cattle. — At Deptford is a great Foreign Cattle Market^ for cattle imported from the Continent- Among the other important markets of London are LeadenhalL Market (p. 107), Leadenhall Street, for poultry and game; Far- ringdon Street Market, at which watercress is one of the chief articles sold ; Great Eastern Raihvay Market^ for fish and vegetables ; the Elephant and Castle Market, for fish ; and the Shadwell Market, East of London Docks, also for fish. Columbia Market, Bethnal Green, was erected by the munificence of the Baroness Burdett Coutts, at a cost of 200,000^., for supplying meat, fish, and vege- tables to one of the poorest quarters of London. The largest Horse Market is TattersaWs, Knightsbrldge Green, where a great number of horses are sold by auction on every Monday throughout the year, and in spring on Thursdays also. Tattersalls is the centre of all business relating to horse-racing and betting throughout the country, — the Englishman's substitute for the con- tinental lotteries. Aldridge's, St. Martin's Lane, is another im- portant horse-mart. The Co-operative System. The object of this system may be described as the furnishing of members of a trading association, formed for the purpose, with genuine and moderately-priced goods on the principle of ready-money payments, the cheapness being secured by economy of management and by contentment with small profits. Notwithstanding the opposition of retail and even of whole- sale dealers, it has of late years made astonishingly rapid progress in London, where there are now about thirty 'co-operative stores', carrying on an immense trade. The chief companies are the Army and Navy Co-operative Stores, Victoria Street, Westminster, and the Civil Service Supply Association. The Civil Service Supply Association consists of shareholders , of members belonging to the Civil Service, and of outsiders (who, however, must be friends of member or shareholders), who pay 5s. the first year and 2s. 6d. in subsequent years. The association now employs 1170 per- sons, who receive salaries amounting in all to 102,000L annually. The cost of the string, paper, and straw used in packing goods for customers amounts to 12,000i. a year, and upwards of 26,(XK3/. is spent annually for carriage and booking. The sales in 1888 reached the enormous sum of 1,760,000/., the net profit being about 2' 2 per cent. The articles sold comprise groceries, wines, spirits, provisions, tobacco, clothing, books, stationery, fancy goods, drugs, and watches. The premises of the association in Queen Victoria Street (No. 1.3()) cost 27,000i., while it has others in Bedford Street, Strand, and in Tavistock Street, Covent (iarden. — The sales of the Army and Navy Stores reach a still higher total, amounting to 2,620,000;. per annum. Strangers or visitors to London are, of course, unable to make pur- chases at a co-operative store except through a member. Co-operative Working Societies. Another application of the 28 9. CABS. co-operative system is seen in the various associations established on the prinfiple of the Co-Partnership of the Workers. Amonj; meritorious societies of this kind the following may be men- tioned: Bookbinders' Co-operative Society, 17 Bury Street, Bloomsl>ury; Trvnk and Bag Makers' Society^ 9 Sherwood Street, Golden Square ; Hamilton d- Co. (shirt-makers), 326 Regent Street; Women's Printing Society, 21b Great College Street, Westminster; Mrs. J h'507i (Co-operative Needlewomen; shirts, etc.), 34 Brooke Street, Holborn; Miss M. Bart (Decorative Co-operators' Association), 405 Oxford Street; Baj - Manufacturing Supply Association, 11 Moor Lane, E. C; Co-operative Printers, Salisbury Court, Fleet Street. 9. Cabs. Omnibuses. Tramways. Coaches. Cabs. When the traveller is in a hurry, and his route does not coincide ^ith that of an omnibus, he had better at once engage a cab at one of the numerous cab-stands, or hail one of those passing along the street. The " Four-xvheelers\ which are small and un- comfortable, hold four persons inside, while a fifth can be accommo- dated beside the driver. The two-wheeled cabs, called Hansoms^ from the name of their inventor , have seats for two persons only (though often used by three), and drive at a much quicker rate than the others. Persons without much luggage will therefore prefer a hansom. The driver's seat is at the back, so that he drives over the heads of the passengers sitting inside. Orders are com- municated to him through a small trap-door in the roof. — There are now about 10,000 cabs in London, employing about 18,000 horses. Fakes are reckoned by distance, unless the cab is expressly hired by time. The charge for a drive of 2 M. or under is I5.; for each ad- ditional mile or fraction of a mile (jd. For each person above two, 6d. additional is charged for the whole hiring. Two children under 10 years of age are reckoned as one adult. For each large article of luggage car- ried outside, '2d. is charged; smaller articles are free. The cabman is not bound to drive more than 6 miles. Beyond the 4-mile radius from Charing Cross the fare is is. for every mile or fraction of a mile. The charge for waiting is 6d. for each completed 1/4 hr. for four-wheelers, and Sd. for hansoms. The fare f>y lime for the first hour or part of an hour is 2s. for four-wheelers, and '2s. Qd. for hansoms. For each additional 1/4 hr., Qd. and Sd. Beyond the 4-mile radius the fare is 25. 6d. for the first hour, for both 2-wheel and 4-wheel vehicles, and for each additional V4 hr. Sd. The driver may decline to drive for more than one full hour, or to be hired by time between S p. m. and 6 a. m. Whether the hirer knows the proper fare or not, he is recommended to come to an agreement with the driver before starting. Each driver is bound to possess a copy of the authorised Book of Distances, and to produce it if required. In cases of attempted imposition the passenger should demand the cab- man's number, or order him to drive to the nearest police court or station. The driver is bound to deposit any articles left in the cab at the nearest police station within tw^enty-four hours, to be claimed by the owner at the Head Police Office, Scotland Yard. The Fly is a vehicle of a superior description, resembling the Parisian Voiture de rem'n^e^ and is admitted to the parks more freely than the cabs. Flys must be specially ordered from a livery stable keeper, and the charges are of course higher. These vehicles are recommended in preference to cabs for drives into the country. 9. OMNIBUSES. 29 "S ■ =i ^"" , and Southend Railway. On the right (S.) bank of the Thames : — XIV. London Bridge Station, the terminus of the Brighton AND South Coast Railway, via New Cross, Brockley, Forest Hill, Sydenham (Crystal Palace), Penge, Norwood Junction (see p. 34j, Croydon (where the main L. B. S. C. line from Tictoria joins; see also (p. 34), Parley (junction for Caterham}^ Red Hill Junction (branch to the W. for Reigate, Box Hill, and Dorking ; to the E. for Dover), Three Bridges (fox Arundel), a.n(i Hay ward's Heath (junc- tion for Lewes and Newhaven), to Brighton. Also to Chichester and Portsmouth for the Isle of Wigld. XV. Waterloo Station, Waterloo Road , Southwark, terminus of the South Western Iiailway, consists of two parts — 1. The Northern (entrance on the E. andN.E.), for the line to Reading hy Vauxhall, Clapham Junction, Wandsworth, Putney, and Barnes. At Barnes the line forks ; the branch to the right (N.) leads to Chiswick, Kew, Brentford, Isleworth, and Hounslow ; that to the left to Mortlake, Richmond, Twickenham, Kingston, and Windsor. 2. The Southern (entrance on the S. side), for the line to Southampton, Portsmouth ( Isle of Wight), Exeter, Plymouth, etc. The nearest stations to London on this line are Vauxhall, Clapham, Wimbledon, Coombe- Maiden , Surbiton (for Kingston), Thames Ditton, and Hampton Court. On all tlie Englisli lines tlie first-class passenger is entitled to carry iV2lb. of luggage free, second-class SJlb., and third-class QOlb. The com- panies, however, rarely make any charge for overweight unless the excess is exorbitant. On all inland routes the traveller should see that his lug- gage is duly labelled for his destination, and put into the right van , as otherwise the railways are not responsible for its transport. Travellers to the Continent require to book their luggage and obtain a ticket for it, after which it gives them no farther trouble. The railway porters are nominally forbidden to accept gratuities, but it is a common custom to give 2-Qd.'to the porter who transfers the luggage from the cab to the train or vice versa. Travellers accustomed ti the formalities of Continental railway of- ficials may perhaps consider that in England they are too much left to themselves. Tickets are not invariably checked at the beginning of a journey, and travellers should therefore make sure that they are in the proper com- partment. The names of the stations are not always so c>)nspicuous as they should be (especially at night); and the way in which the porters c.ill" them out, laying all the stress on the last syllable, is seldom of much assistance. The officials, however, are generally civil in answering ques- tions and giving information. In winter foot-warmers with hot water are usually provided. It is 'good form' for a passenger quitting a railway- carriage where there are other travellers to close the door behind him. and to pull up the window if he has had to let it down. Smoking is forbidden in all the carriages except the 'smoking com- partments', under a penalty of 'iOs. BraJshwc's Railway Guide (monthly; 6d.) is the most complete; but numerous others (the ABC Railway Guide, etc.), claiming to be easier of reference, are also published. Each of the great railway-companies pub- lishes a raonthlv guide to its own svstem (price l-2d.). 3* 36 10. RAILWAYS. Metropolitan or Underground Railways. An important artery of 'intramural' traffic is afforded by the Melropnlibtn and Metropolitan l>lstrict lia'dwuys. These lines, which for the most part run under the houses and streets by means of tunnels, and partly also through cuttings between high walls, form a complete belt (the 'inner circle') round the whole of the inner part of liOndon, while various branch-lines diverge to the outlying suburbs. The Midland, (Jreat Western, Great Northern, and other railways run suburban trains in connection with the Me- tropolitan lines. The Metropolitan Railway Company now conveys about 81 million passengers annually, or npwards of i^j) million per week, at an average rate of about twopence per journey. Over the quadruple part of the line, between Farringdon street and Moorgate street, 1406 trains run every week-day. The stations on the underground lines are the following (see Railway Map) : — Mark Lane, for the Tower of London, the Mint, Corn Exchange, Billingsgate, and the Docks. Aldgate, Iloundsditch , corner of Leadenhall and Fenchurch Streets, for Mincing Lane. Whitechapel, Minories, and the East End. From Ald'iatc the line is extended to Aldgote East, fyt. Mary''s (Wlnte- cliapel), iind Whitechapel (Jlile End), whence the District Company's trains run on to Shadwell, Wapping^ Kotherhithe, Dept/ord Road, and New Cross, on the East London Railway. Through-trains now run between New Cross and many of the District and Metropolitan stations. Bishopsgate , near the I^ivcrpool Street (Great Eastern ; sub- way) and I'road Street (North of London) stations, Moorgate Street, close to Finsbury Circus, 5 min. from the Hank, chief station for the City. Aldersgate Street , Long Lane , near the General Post Office atid Smithtield Meat Market (branch-line to the latter, see p. 26); change for Ludgate Hill , Crystal Palace, and London, Chatham, and Dover Railway. Farringdon Street, in Clerkenwell, 1/4 M. to the N. of Holborii Viaduct, connected with Holborn Viaduct and Ludgate Hill stations (see p. 34); trains to and from the latter (London, Chatham, and Dover Railway) every 10 min. King's Cross, corner of Pentonville Road and Gray's Inn Road, connected with the Great Northern and Midland Railways. Gower Street, near Euston Sqnare ( North Western) Terminus and a])ont \'>M. from the British Museum. Portland Road, Park Sqnare, at the S.E. angle of Regent's Park, i'.)^. from the S, entrance of the Zoological Gardens (by the Broad Walk) ; omnibus to Oxford Circus (1 d.) and Charing Cross Station (2 rf.) in connection with the trains. Baker Street, corner of York Place, another station for the Bot- anic and Zoological Gardens. A little to the E., in Marylebone Road, is Madame Tussaud's (p. 44). Railway omnibus to Piccadilly Circus (1 t/.). 10. RAILWAYS. 37 Bkanch Line to St. John't Wood Road (for Lord's Cricket Groundj, Marlborough Road, Swiss Collage, Finchley Road, West Ilampstead, KHhurn- Brondesbury, Willesden Green, Kmgsbury-Neasden (with the extensive works of the Metropolitan Railway), Harrow, Firmer, Rickmansworth, and Chesham (the last extensii>n opened in July, 1889). Edgware Boad, Chapel Street. BiiANCM Link to Bishop's Road, Royal Oak, Weslbov.rne Park, Nolting Hill (the last two stations are both near Kensal Green Cemetery), Latimer Road, Shepherds Bush, Hammersmith (trains every 1/4 hr.); also to Turn- ham Green (Bedford Park Estate), Gunnersbury, Kew Gardens, Richmond (trains every half-hour, from Bishop's Hoad to Richmond in 28 min.) — From Latimer Koad branch-line to the left to Uxbridge Road, Addison Road (Kensington; for Olympia, p. 44). Earls Court, and Br ompton (Glou- cester Road), see below : trains every '/-i hr. — Omnitjus to Kilburn. Praed Street (Paddington) , opposite the Great Western Hotel and the Padflinjjton Station. Queen's Road (Bayswater), N. side of Kensington Gardens. Netting Hill Gate, Nottirig Hill High Street, for the E. part of Netting Hill. Kensington High Street, Kensington, ^3 ^I- ^^om Holland House and Park. Brompton (Gloucester Road). Branch Links to West Brompton, Addison Road, Earls Court, Putney Bridge, Wimbledon (new extension-line, opened in June, 1889), Acton, Ealing, Kew and Richmond, etc. South Kensington, Cromwell Koad, for South Kensington Museum (3 min. to the X.J, Natural History Museum-, Alhert Hall (suttway, see p. 271), Albert Memorial, and the Imperial Institute. Sloane Square, near Chelsea Hospital, station for Battersea Park. Victoria, opposite Victoria Terminus (London , Chatham, and Dover and I'righton PailwaysJ, with which it is connected by a subway, and Y4 ^^- from Btickingham Palace. St. James's Park, Tothill Street, near Birdcage Walk, to the S. of St. .James's Park, the station for the Panorama of Niagara. Westminster Bridge, Victoria Embankment, at the W. end of Westminster liridge , station for the Houses of Parliament , West- minster Abbey, etc. Charing Cross, for Charing Cross, Trafalgar Square, National Gallery, and West Strand. Temple, between Somerset House and the Temple, below Waterloo Bridge, station for the new Law Courts, Somerset House, and the London School P.oard Office. Blackfriars, Bridge Street, adjacent to Blackfriars Bridge, con- nected by a covered way with the St. Paul's Station of the London, Chatham, & Dover Ptailway, and near Ludgate Hill Station fp- 34). From Westminster to Pilackfriars the line runs below the Victoria P>mbankment (p. 113j. Mansion House, corner of Cannon Street and Queen Victoria Street, station fur St. Paul's. Omnibus to Liverpool Street Station. Cannon Street, below the termin.us of the South Eastern Rail- way, the station nearest the Bank and the P^xchange. 38 11. STEAMBOATS. The Monument, at the corner of Eastclieap. station lor the Monument, London Bridge, the Coal Exchange, and the new Electric Railway Subway under the Thames. Trains run on the main line (pinner circle) in both directions from 6 a.m. to nearly midnight, at intervals of 5-10 min. during the day, and of 15 min. before 8 a.m. or after 8 p.m. The stations generally occupy open sites, and are lighted from above, many of them being roofed with glass. At night some of them are now lighted with electric light. The carriages are comfortable and roomy, and are lighted with gas. The booking-office is generally on a level with the street, at the top of the flight of stairs leading down to the railway. The oflicial who checks the tickets points out the right plat- form , while the tickets themselves are marked with a large red O or I (for 'outer' and 'inner' line of rails), corresponding with notices in the stations. After reaching the platform the traveller had better enquire whe- ther the train for his destination is the lirst that comes up or one of those that follow, or consult the telegraph-board on which the destination of the 'next train' is indicated. It may, however, be useful to know that the trains of the 'inner circle' have one white light on the engine; trains between Hammersmith and New Cross have one white and one blue light, between Hammersmith and Aldgate two blue lights, and between Richmond and Aldgate two white lights. The terminus towards which the train is tra- velling is also generally placarded on the front of the engine. Above the platforms hang boards indicating the points at which the ditferent classes of carriage are drawn up ; the first-class carriages are in the middle of the train. The names of the stations are called out by the porters, and are always painted at different parts of the platform and on the lamps, though frequently difficult to distinguish from the surrounding advertisements. As the stoppages are extremely brief, no time should be lost either in taking seats or alighting. Passengers leave the platform by the 'Way Out\ where their tickets are given up. Those who are travelling with through-tickets to a station situated on one of the branch-lines show their tickets at the junction where carriages are changed, and where the officials will indicate the proper train. — Comp. the time-tables of the companies. The fares are extremely moderate, seldom exceeding a shilling even for considerable distances. Return-tickets are issued at a fare and a half. At first, in order to make himself acquainted with the Metropolis, the stranger will naturally prefer to make use of omnibuses and cabs, but when his first curiosity is satisfied he will probably often avail himself of the easy, rapid, and economical mode of travelling afforded by the 3Ietropolitan Railway. 11. Steamboats. The Victoria Steamboat Company, established in 1888. prac- tically commands the whole route from Hampton Court towards the west to Southend and Sheeniess on the east. On this great length of river, with all its sinuosities, there are about 45 piers or landing- places, the larger half of which are on the north or left bank. Above Vauxhall Bridge are Nine Elms, Pimlico, Battersea Park, Chelsea, Wandsworth, Putney, Hammersmith, Kew, Richmond, Teddington, and Hampton Court. Between the bridges, as the reach between Vauxhall Bridge on the west and London Bridge on the east is sometimes called, are the piers at Millbank, Lambeth, Westminster, Charing Cross, Waterloo, Temple , Blackfriars , St. Paul's Wharf, and two at London Bridge (one on each bank). Below all the brid- 12. THEATRES. 30 ges are Cherry Onrdens (in no scnac corresponding with its narae\ Thumef Tunnel, diohe Stairs, Limehouse, West India Docks, Com- merciid Docks, MillwalL, (jreenwich, Isle of Doys, Cuhitt Toirn, Blackball, Charlton, Woolwich, Sorth Woolwich, Erith, Greenhithe, Rosherville, Gravesend, Southend, and Sheerness, where the Norc light-ship is reached, and the estuary of the Thames expands into the German Ocean. Some of the larger steamers from London Bridge extend their trips to Margate, Ramsgate, Clacton-on-Sea, Walton- on-the-Naze, Harwich, and Ipswich. Steamers ply every ten minutes between London Bridge and Chelsea, calling at intermediutu stations (fares '/2-2c?. according to distance), every V2 hr. between Gretnirich and Westminster (fare 3c/.). and every 1/2 hr. between Chelsea ((Jadoscan Pier) and K'iw (fare 6c?. >. The longer trips (fares 6d.-3« %d.) are advertised from time to time in the newspapers. The steamers may also be hired for excursion-parties at prices ranging from 10/. to 65/. per day. On Sundays and holidays the fare is raised for most of the shorter trips. Although the steamers cannot all be described as comfortable, they at any rate afford an excellent survey of the traflic on the Thames 'below bridge" and of the smiling beauties of its banks "above". 12. Theatres. The performance at many of the London theatres begins about 7.30 or 8 and lasts till 11 p.m. ; but the latter part of the re- presentation is apt to be more of a fatigue than a pleasure. London possesses (>5 theatres and about 500 music halls, which are visited by 325.(XO people nightly or nearly lOO.OOO.OOO yearly. A visit to the whole of the theatres of London, which, however, could only be managed in the course of a prolonged sojourn, would give the traveller a capital insight into the social life of the people thri ughout all its gra- dations. Copies of the play are often sold at the theatres for 6c/. or Is. each, enabling the spectator to appreciate the performance more thoroughly. At some of the better theatres all extra fees have been abolished, but mariy of them still maintain the objectionable custom of charging for programmes, the care of wraps, etc. French (late Lacy), 89 Strand, fs the chief thea- trical bookseller. The best seats are the Stalls, next to the Orchestra, and the Dress Circle. On the occasion of popular performances tickets for these places are often not to be had at the door on entering, but must be secured previously at the Box Office of the theatre, when an extra fee of Is. for booking is sometimes charged. The office always contains a plan of the theatre, showing the positions of the seats. Tickets for the opera and for most of the theatres mav also be obtained at Mitchell's . 33 Old Bond Street; Lacon d- OlHer, 168 ^ew Bond Street: Ollivier, 35 Old Bond Street; Hays, 4 Royal Exchange Buildings; Keith, Proicse, d- Co,. 4S Cheap- side, 218 High Ilolburn, Langham Hotel. 148 Fenchurch Street, 2 Army and Xavy Buildings, Victoria .Street, and Hotel Metropole, Xorthum- berland Avenue. Charing Cross; Cramer, Regent Street; Austin's Ticket Office, St. James's Hall, Piccadilly, and elsewhere, at charges somewhat higher as a rule than at the theatres themselves, but occasionally lower. Single box seats can generally be obtained at the door as well as at the box-office, except when the boxes are let for the season. Those who have not taken their tickets in advance should be at the door half-an-hour before the beginning of the performance, with, if pos- sible, the exact price of their ticket in readiness. (This is scarcely ever necessary in regard to the dearest seats.) The ticket-oflice is usually opened ha,lf-an hour before the commencement of the performance. All 40 12. THEATRES. the theatres are closed on Good Friday and Christmas Day, and many of them throughout the whole of Passion Week. Evening dress is not now compulsory in any of the London theatres, but is customary in the stalls and dress circle and de rigueur in most parts of the opera-houses during the opera season. The chief London theatres are the following, but many of them are closed in August and September. Her Majesty's Theatre , or Opera House , corner of Hay- market and Pall Mall. This theatre, originally erected by Van- brugh in 1705, was burned dowu in 1789, rebuilt by Novosielski the following year, and extended by Nash and Repton in 1816-18. The interior was again destroyed by fire in December 1867, but since then the theatre has been entirely restored. Italian operas are performed here. Private boxes from il. Is. to lOi. 10s. ; stalls 12s. 6d., first two rows of dress circle 10s. , other rows of dress circle 7s. 6d., first circle 5s. & 6s., second circle 3s. & 4s., pit 2s. 6d. Doors open at 7.30; performance commences at 8 p.m. Winter season at reduced prices. Often closed. Royal Italian Opera, or Covent Garden Theatre, on the W. side of Bow Street, Long Acre, the third theatre on the same site, was built in 1858 by Barry. It accommodates an audience of 3500 persons, being nearly as large as the Scala at Milan, and has a handsome Corinthian colonnade. This house was originally sacred to Italian opera, but is now used for promenade concerts in autumn and as a circus in winter. Boxes 21/2-7 guineas, orchestra stalls 21s., amphitheatre stalls 10s. 6d. and 5s, amphitheatre 2s. 6d. Performance commences at 8 or 8.30 p.m. Operas have also been given here at 'theatre' prices — i.e. about 50 per cent, lower than those just mentioned. In winter, stalls 6s., stage stalls 4s., grand circle 2s. 6^/., balcony stalls 2s., promenade Is. Doors open at 7.30, performance commences at 8 p.m. Drury Lane Theatre , between Drury Lane and Brydges Street, near Covent Garden, where Garrick, Kean, the Kembles, and Mrs. Siddons used to act. Shakspeare's plays, comedies, spectacular plays, English opera, etc. Pantomime in winter. Stalls 10s., dress circle 7s. & 6s., first circle 5s. and 4s., balcony 3s., pit 2s., gallery Is., second gallery 6fi. No fees. Begins at 7.30 p.m. The vesti- bule contains a statue of Kean as Hamlet, by Carew, and others. Lyceum Theatre, Strand, corner of Wellington Street. Shak- spearian pieces , comedies , etc. (Mr. Henry Irving and Miss Ellen Terry). Stalls 10s. 6d. , dress circle 6s. 6d., upper circle 4s. , pit 2s., gallery Is. Performance begins at 7.30 p.m. No fees. Haymarket Theatre , at the S. end of the Haymarket. English comedy. Stalls 10s. , dress circle 7s. , first circle 4s. & 5s., upper circle 2s., gallery Is. Begins at 7.45 p.m. No fees. St. James's Theatre, King Street, St. James's Square. Come- dies. Stalls 10s. 6d. , dress circle 6s. 6rf., boxes 4s., pit 2s. 6rf.. gallery Is. No fees. Commences at 8 p.m. 12. THEATRES. 41 Savoy Theatre, Savoy Place, Strand (electric light). Gilbert and Sullivan's operettas. Stalls iOs. 6d., balcony 7s. 6d., first circle 48., pit2«. 6d., amphitheatre 2s., gallery Is. No fees. Begins at 8 p.m. Princess's Theatre, 150 Oxford Street, between Oxford Circus and Tottenham Court Road. Comedies, operettas, etc. Stalls 10s., dress circle 6s., boxes 3s., pit 2s., amphitheatre Is. 6(/., gallery Is. Begins at 8 p.m. Royal Adelphi Theatre, 411 Strand (N. side), near Bedford Street. Melodramas and farces. Stalls 10s., balcony stalls 6s., upper circle Ss., pit 2s., gallery Is. Begins at 7.15 p.m. Royal Strand Theatre, Strand, near Somerset House. Come- dies, opera-bouffes, and burlesques. Stalls 10s. 6d., dress circle 6s., boxes 4s., pit 2s., amphitheatre Is. Begins at 8 p.m. Gaiety Theatre, 345 Strand. Comedies, operettas, farces. Orchestra stalls 10s. 6d., balcony stalls 6s. & 7s., upper boxes 4s., pit 2s. 6ci., gallery Is. Begins at 8 p.m. No fees. Opera Comique, 299 Strand. Operettas, etc. Stalls 10s., bal- cony stalls 7s. Qd. aiid 6s., boxes 4s., first circle 2s., gallery Is. Commences at 8 p.m. This theatre is built end to end with the Globe [see below), and like it is partly below the level of the street. Vaudeville Theatre, 404 Strand. Comedies [Sheridan), far- ces, and burlesques. Stalls 10s., balcony stalls 6s., boxes 4s., upper circle 2s. 6d., pit 2s., gallery Is. Begins at 8 p.m. Globe Theatre, Newcastle Street, Strand. Operettas, come- dies, etc. Stalls 10s. 6d., dress circle 6s., upper boxes 3s., pit 2s., gallery Is. and 6d. Begins at 8 p.m. No fees. Royal Court Theatre, Sloane Square, Chelsea. Comedies, farces, etc. Stalls 10s. 6d., dress circle 7s. 6d., upper circle 4s., pit 2s. 6rf., gallery Is. No fees. Commences at 8 p.m. Criterion Theatre , Piccadilly East. Comedies, farces, etc. (Mr. Charles Wyndham). Stalls 10s. 6xford Street), which work in connection with the continental post-offices. Parcels for America are forwarded by Stareley & (7o.'« Americnn European Express ( H. Starr k Co.), 19 Australia Avenue, Barbican, E.C. -, the American Express. 99 Cannon Street, E.C: and the American d- European Express, 52 Lime Street, E.C., and 113a. Regent Street. Pitt dc ^cott. 23 Cannon Street, City, and 7 Carlton Street, Regent Street, are general shipping and parcel agents for all parts of the world. Commissionnaires. These are a corps of retired soldiers of good character, organised in 1859 by Captain Sir Edward Walter of the 'Times' newspaper, and form convenient and trustworthy messengers for the conveyance of letters or small parcels. Their head office is at Exchange Court, 419a Strand, but they are also to be found in most of the chief thoroughfares, where they may be recognised by their green uniform and metal bad^e. Their charges are 3d. per mile or 6d. per hour; the rate is a little higher if the parcel to be carried weighs more than 14lbs. The charge for a day is about 3^. 6d., and they may also be hired by special arrangement for a week or a longer period. — The Army and Navy Pen- sion'rs Employment Society, 41 Charing Cross, is a similar organisation. The Lady Guide Association, 121 Pall Mall (temporary office ; Managing Directress. Miss Davis] , established in 1889, provides ladies qualified to act as guides to the sights of London, as inter- preters, as travelling companions, as aids in shopping, etc. It also keeps a register of boarding and lodging houses, engages rooms at hotels, exchanges money, provides railway and other tickets, and generally undertakes to give all the information and assistance required by a stranger in London. The charge for the guides, who are arranged in three classes and may be engaged by the hour, day, or month, varies from As. to 8s. Qd. per day. 56 18. OUTLINE OF ENGLISH HISTORY. 18. Outline of English History. The visitor to the metropolis of Great Britain , whether from the western hemisphere, from the antipodes, or from the provinces of that country itself, will at almost every step meet with interest- ing historical associations ; and it is to a great extent on his acquaintance with these that the enjoyment and instruction to be derived from his visit will depend. We therefore give a brief table of the chief events in English history, which the tourist will often find convenient as an aid to his memory. In the following section will be found a sketch of the rise and progress of London itself. Roman Period, Of Britain before its first invasion by Julius Caesar in B.C. 55 there is no authentic history. Csesar repeats his invasion in B.C. 54, but makes no permanent settlement. Emp. Claudius undertakes the subjugation of Britain. Britain, with part of Caledonia, is overrun by the Roman general Agricola, and reduced to the form of a province. Roman legions recalled from Britain by Honorius. The Britons, deprived of their Roman protectors, are unable to resist the attacks of the Picts^ and summon the Saxons, under Hengist and Horsa, to their aid. B.C. 55-446 A.D. B.C. 55-64. 43 A.D. 78-85. 412. 445. 445-1066. 445-585. 835-871. 871-901. 979-1016. 1013. 1017-1035. 1035-1040. 1040-1042. Anglo-Saxon Period. Tlie Saxons, re-inforced by the Angles, Jutes, and other Germanic tribes, gradually overcome Britain on their own ac- count, until the whole country, with trifling exceptions, is divided into the seven kingdoms of the Saxon Heptarchy (585). To this period belong the semi-mythical exploits of King Arthur and his knights. Christianity re-introduced by St. Augustine (597). The Venerable Bede (d. 735). Caedmon (about 680). Contests with the Danes and Normans , who repeatedly invade England. Alfred the Great defeats the Danes, and compels them to make peace. Creates navy, establishes militia, revises laws, reorganises institutions, founds university of Oxford, is a patron of learning, and himself an author. Ethelred the Unready draws down upon England the vengeance of the Danes by a massacre of those who had settled in England. The Danish king Sweyn conquers England. Canute the Great, the son of Sweyn, reigns over Ehglaud. Harold Harefoot, illegitimate son of Canute , usurps the throne. Hardicanute, son of Canute. — The Saxon line is restored in the person of — 18. OUTLINE OF ENGLISH HISTORY. Edward the Confessor, who makes London the capital of England, and biiilds Westminster Abbey (see p. 193). His brother-in-law and successor — Harold loses his kingdom and his life at the Battle of Hastings, where he opposed the invasion of the Normans, under William the Conqueror. Norman Dynasty. William the Conqueror, of Normandy, establishes him- self as King of the l^nglish. Introduction of Norman (French) language and customs. "William II., surnamed iiu/'us, after a tyrannical reign, is accidentally shot by Sir Walter Tyrrell while out hunting. Henry I., Beauderc, defeats his elder brother Robert, Duke of Normandy, at the battle of Tenchebrai (1106), and adds Normandy to the possessions of the English crown. He leaves his kingdom to his daughter Matilda , who, however, is unable to wrest it from — Stephen, ofBlois, grandson of the Conqueror. David, King of Scotland, and uncle of Matilda, is defeated and taken prisoner at the Battle of the Standard. Stephen appoints as his successor Matilda's son, Henry of Anjou or Plantagenet (from the planta genista or broom, the badge of this family). House of Plantagbxbt. Henry II. Strife with Thomas Becket, Archbishop of Canterbury, over the respective spheres of the civil and ecclesiastical powers. The Archbishop excommunicates the King's followers , and is murdered by five knights at Canterbury. Ireland is conquered by De Coucy. Robin Hood., the forest outlaw, flourishes. Richard I., Coeur de Lion, takes a prominent part in the Third Crusade , but is captured on his way home, and im- prisoned in Germany for upwards of a year. He carries on war with Philip 11. of France. John, surnamed Lackland, is defeated a.t Bouvines by Philip II. of France, and loses Normandy. Magna Charta, the groundwork of the English constitution, is extorted from him by his Barons (comp. pp. 186, 336). Henry III., by his misrule, becomes involved in a war with liis Barons, lieaded by Simon de Montfort, and is de- feated at Lewes. His son Edward gains the battle of Evesham, where De Montfort is slain. Hubert de Burgh de- feats the French at sea. Roger Bacon, the philosopher. Edward I., Longshanks, conquers the Welsh under Llewellyn, and annexes North Wales. The heir apparent to the English tlironc thenceforward bears the title of Prince of 58 18. OUTLINE OF ENGLISH HISTORY. Wales. Robert Bruce a.ni J ohnBaliol struggle for the crown of Scotland. Edward espouses the cause of the latter (who swears fealty to England), and overruns Scotland. The Scots, led by Sir WiUiam Wallace, offer a determined resistance. Wallace executed at London. The Scots defeated at Falkirk and Methuen, and the country subdued. Establish- ment of the English Parliament in its modern form. Edward II. is signally defeated at Bannockhurn by the Scots under Robert Bruce the younger, and is forced to retire to England. The Queen and her paramour Mortimer join with the Barons in taking up arms against the King, who is deposed, and shortly afterwards murdered in prison. Edward III. defeats the Scots at Halidon Hill and Neville's Cross. Lays claim to the throne of France, and invades that country , thus beginning the hundred years' war between France and England. Victories of Sluys (navall, Crecy (13461, and Poitiers (1356). John the Good of France, taken prisoner by the Black Prince, dies in captivity. After the death of the Black Prince, England loses all her French possessions, except Calais and Gnscony. Order of the Garter founded. Movement against the preten- sions and corruption of the clergy, headed by the early reformer John Wycliffe. House of Commons holds its meet- ings apart from the House of Lords. Richard II. Rebellion of Wat Tyler, occasioned by in- crease of taxation (see p. 96). Victory over the Scots at Otterburn or Chevy Chase. Henry of Bolingbroke, Duke of Lancaster, leads an army against the King, takes him captive, and according to popular tradition, starves him to death in Pontefract Castle. Geoffrey Chaucer, the father of English poetry, flourishes. HousK OF Lancaster. Henry IV. , Bolingbroke, now secures his election to the crown, in right of his descent from Henry TIL Outbreak of the nobility, under the Earl of Northumberland and his son Henry (Percy Hotspur), is quelled by the victory of Shrews- bury, at which the latter is slain. Henry V. renews the claims of England to the French crown, wins the battle of Agincourt, and subdues the N. of France. Persecution of the Loiiard.f, or followers of Wycliffe. Henry VI. is proclaimed King of France at Paris. The Maid of Orleans defeats the English and recovers French possessions. Outbreak of the civil contest called the ^Wars of the Roses', between the houses of Lancaster (red rose) and York (white rose). Henry becomes insane. Richard, Duke of York, grandson of Edward UL, lays claim to the 18. OUTLINE OF ENGLISH HISTORY. 59 throne, joins liimself with Warwick, the 'King-Maker', and wins the battle of Northampton^ but is defeated and slain at Wakefield. His son Edward, however, is appointed King, Rebellion of Jack Cade. House of York. Edward IV. wins the battles of Towton, Hedgley Moor, and Hexham. Warwick takes the part of Margaret of Anjou, wife of Henry VI., and forces Edward to flee to Holland, whence, however, he soon retnrns and wins the victories of Barnet and Tewkesbury. Henry VI. dies sud- denly in the Tower. Edward's brother, t^ie Duke of Clarence, is said to have been drowned in a butt of malmsey. Edward V. , the youthful son of Edward IV., is declared illegitimate, and murdered in the Tower, along with his brother (p. 120), by his uncle, the Duke of Gloucester, who takes possession of the throne as — Richard III., but is defeated and slain at Bosworth by Henry Tudor , Earl of Richmond , a scion of the House of Lancaster. House of Tudor. Henry VII. marries Elizabeth, daughter of Edward IV., and so puts an end to the Wars of the Roses. The pretenders Lambert Simnel and Perkin Warbeck. Henry VIII., married six times (to Catherine of Arragon, Anne Boleyn, Jane Seymour, Anne of Cleves, Catherine Hoxoard , and Catherine Parr). Battles of the Spurs and Flodden. Separation of the Church of England from that of Rome. Dissolution of monasteries and persecution of the Papists. Cardinal Wolsey and Thomas Cromwell, all-powerful ministers. Whitehall and St. James's Palace built. Edward VI. encourages the Reformed faith. Mary I. causes Lady Jane Grey , whom Edward had ap- pointed his successor, to be executed, and imprisons her own sister Elizabeth (pp. 123, 182). Udirnes Philip of Spain, and restores Roman Catholicism. Persecution of the Pro- testants. Calais taken by the French. Elizabeth. Protestantism re-established. Flourishing state of commerce. Mary, Queen of Scots, executed after a long confinement in England. Destruction of the Spanish 'Invincible Armada'. Sir Francis Drake , the celebrated circumnavigator. Foundation of the East India Company. Golden age of P^nglish literature : Shakspeare , Bacon, Spenser, Jonson, Beaumont, Fletcher, Marlowe, Drayton. 60 18. OUTLINE OF ENGLISH HISTORY. House of Stuart. James I., King of Scots, and son of Mary Stuart, unites by his accession the two kingdoms of England and Scot- land. Persecution of the Puritans and Roman Catholics. In- fluence of Buckingham. Gunpowder Plot. Execution of Sir Walter Raleigh. Charles I. imitates his father in the arbitrary nature of his rule, quarrels with Parliament on questions of taxation, dissolves it repeatedly, and tyrannically arrests live leading members of the House of Commons {Hampden, Pym, etc.). Rise of the Covenanters in Scotland. Long Parliament. Out- break of civil war between the King and his adherents (Cava- liers) on the one side, and the Parliament and its friends (Roundheads) on the other. The King defeated by Oliver Cromwell at Marston Moor and Nasebij. He takes refuge in the Scottish camp, but is betrayed to the Parliamentary lead- ers, tried, and executed at Whitehall (p. 182). Commonwealth. The Scots rise in favour of Charles II., but are defeated at Dunbar and Worcester by Cromwell. Protectorate. Oliver Cromwell now becomes Lord Pro- tector of England, and by his vigorous and wise government makes England prosperous at home and respected abroad. John Milton, the poet, Thomas Hobbes, the philosopher, and George Fox, the founder of the Quakers, live at this period. On Cromwell's death , he is succeeded by his son Richard, who, however, soon resigns, whereupon Charles II. is re- stored by General Monk. Charles II. General amnesty proclaimed , a few of the regicides only being excepted. Arbitrary government. The Cabal. Wars with Holland. Persecution of the Papists after the pretended discovery of a Popish Plot. Passing of the Habeas Corpus Act. Wars with the Covenanters. Battle of Bothwell Bridge. Rye House Plot. Charles a pen- sioner of France. Names Whig and Tory come into use. Dryden and Butler, the poets ; Locke, the philosopher. James II. , a Pvoman Catholic, soon alienates the people by his love for that form of religion, is quite unable to resist the invasion of William of Orange , and escapes to France, where he spends his last years at St. Germain. William III. and Mary II. William of Orange , with his wife, the eldest daughter of James II., now ascends the throne. The Declaration of Rights. Battles of Killiecrankie and The Boyne. Sir Isaac Newton. Anne, younger daughter of James II., completes the fusion of England and Scotland by the union of their parliaments. Marlborough's victories of Blenheim, Ramilies, 18. OUTLINE OF ENGLISH HISTORY. 61 .714 to the •resent dav. 1714-1727. 1727-1760. 1760-1820. 1820-1830. 1830-1837. Oudenarde, and Malplaquet, in the Spanish War of Succes- sion. Capture of G'iferaifar. The poets Pope, .^rfdison, /Si/^i/'f, Prior^ and Allan Ramsay. Hanoverian Dynasty. George I. succeeds in right of his descent from James I. Rebellion in Sctland [in favour of the Pretender) quelled. j Sir Robert Walpole^ prime minister. Daniel Defoe. George II. Kehellion in favour of the Young Pretender, \ Charles Edward Stuart, crushed at Culloden. Canada I taken. from the French. William Pitt, Lord Chatham, I prime minister; Richardson, Fielding, Smollett, Sterne, I novelists ; Thomson, Young, Gray, Collins, Gay, poets ; ' Hogarth, painter. George III. American War of Independence. War with France. Victories of Nelson at Aboukir and Trafalgar, and of Wellington in Spain and at Waterloo. The younger Pitt, prime minister ; Shelley and Keats, poets. George IV. Roman Catholic Emancipation Bill. Daniel O'Connell. The English aid the Greeks in the War of In- dependence. Victory of xVayarmo. Byron, Sir Walter Scott, Wordsworth, Coleridge, Southey. William IV. Abolition of slavery. Reform Bill. The present sovereign of Great Britain is — Victoria, born 24th May, 1819 ; ascended the throne in 1837 ; married, on 10th Feb., 1840, her cousin, Prince Albert of Saxe- Coburg-Gotha (d. 14th Dec, 1861). The children of this marriage are: — (1) Victoria, born 21st Kov., 1840; married to the Crown Prince of Germany, 2oth Jan., 1858. (2) Albert Edward, Prince of Wales, Heir Apparent to the throne, born yth Nov., 1841: married Alexandra, Princess of Denmark, 10th Mar., 1863. (3) Alice, born 2oth April, 1843: married to the Grand-Duke of Hessen- Darmstadt, 1st July, 1862; died 14th Dec, 1878. (4) Alfred, Duke of Edinburgh, born 6th Au'z., 1844; married the Grand Duchess Marie of Russia, 23rd Jan., 1874. (0) Helena, born 2oth 3Iay, 1846; married to Prince Christian of Schleswig-Holstein-Sonderburg-Augustenburg, 5th July, 1866. (6) Louise, born 18th March, 1848; married to the Marquis of Lome, eldest son of the Duke of Argyll, 21st March, 1871. (7) Arthur, Duke of Connaught, born 1st May, 1850; married Princess Louise Margaret, daughter of Prince Frederick Charles, nephew of the German Emperor, 13th March, 1879. (8) Leopold, Duke of Albany, born 7th April, 1853; married Princess Helen of Waldeck-Pyrmont, 27th April, 1882; died 28th March, 1884. (9) Beatrice, born 14th April, 1857 ; married Prince Henry of Batten- berg, 23rd July, 1885. 62 19. Historical Sketch of London. The most populous city in the world (which London un- questionahly is) cannot fail to have had an eventful history, in all that concerns race, creed, institutions, culture, and general progress. At what period the Britons, one branch of the Celtic race, settled on this spot, there is no authentic evidence to shew. The many forms which the name assumes in early records have led to much controversy ; but it is clear that 'London' is derived from the Latin Londinium, the name given it in Tacitus, and that this is only an adaptation by the Romans of the ancient British name Llyn, or Lin, a pool, and din or dun, a high place of strength, a hill fort, or city. The 'pool' was a widening of the river at this part, where it makes a bend, and offered a convenient place for shipping. Whether the 'dun' or hill was the high ground reached by Ludgate Hill, and on which St. Paul's now stands, or Cornhill, near the site of the Man- sion House, it is difficult to decide*. Probably both these eleva- tions were on the 'pool'. The etymology of the first syllable of Lon- don is the same as that of 'Liu" in Lincoln, which was called by Ptolemy Lindon [Atvoov], and by the Romans Lindum, the second syllable of the modern form of the name representing the word. 'Colonia'. The present British or Welsh name of London is Llun- dain; but it was formerly also known to the Welsh as Caer-ludd, the City of Lud, a British king said to have ruled here just before the Roman period , and popularly supposed to be commemorated in Lud- gate v, one of the gates of the old walled city, near the junction of Ludgate Hill and Farringdon Street. London, in the days of the Britons, was probably little more than a collection of huts, on a dry spot in the midst of a marsh, or in a cleared space in the midst of a wood, and encompassed by an artificial earthwork and ditch. That there was much marsh and forest in the immediate vicinity is proved by the character of the deep soil when turned up in digging foundations, and by the small subterranean streams which still run into the Thames, as at Dowgate, formerly Xfouryate ('water gate', from Celtic dwr, water), at the Fleet Ditch, at Blackfriars Bridge, etc. Such names as Fen- church Street (see p. 107) are reminiscent of the former character of the neighbourhood. After the settlement of the Romans in Britain, quite early in the Christian era. London rapidly grew in importance. In the time of the Emperor Nero (62 A.D.), the city had become a resort of merchants from various countries and the centre of a considerable '" The latter alternative is that of the Rev. W. J. Loftie. London's latest and probably best historian (see p. 80j. f In his 'History'' Mr. Lofiie suggests that Ludgate may mean 'Fleef or 'Flood' gate, but he now informs us that when he wrote this passage he was not aware that Ludgate is the Anglo-Saxon word for a postern, and merely indicates that this was one of the smaller gates of the city. 19. HISTORICAL SKETCH OF LONDON. 63 maritime commerce, the river Thames affording ready access for shipping. It suffered terribly during the sanguinary struggle between the Romans and the British queen Boadicea, and was in later cen- turies frequently attacked and plundered by piratical bands of Franks, Norsemen, Picts, Scots, Danes, and Saxons, who crossed the seas to reap a ruthless harvest from a city which doubtless possessed much commercial wealth ; but it speedily recovered from the effects of these visitations. As a Roman settlement London was frequently named Au^us^a, but it was never raised to the dignity of being a municipium like Verulamium (p. 333] or EboracumiXork)^ and was not regarded as the capital of Roman Britain. It extended from the site of the present Tower of London on the E. to Ludgate on the W., and inland from the Thames as far as the marshy ground known in later times as Moorlields and Finsbury or Fensbury. Wat- ling Street perpetuates the name of one among many roads made through London by the Romans. Relics are still found almost annu- ally of the foundations of Roman buildings of a substantial and elegant character. Fragments of the Roman wall are also discerni- ble. This wall was maintained in parts until modern times, but has almost entirely disappeared before the alterations and improve- ments which taste and the necessities of trade have introduced. The most prominent remaining piece of the Roman wall is in London Wall, between Wood Street and Aldermanbury, where an inscrib- ed tablet calls attention to it. Another fragment may be seen in the adjacent churchyard of St. Giles, Cripplegate (see p. 96). The gates of Roman London, whose walls are believed to have been first built on such an extended scale as to include the above- mentioned limits by the Emperor Constantine in the fourth cen- tury, were in after times called Lud-gate, Dour-gate, Belins-gate, Postern-gate , Aid-gate , Bishops-gate , Moor-gate , Cripple-gate, Alders-gate and New-gate, all of which are still commemorated in names of streets, etc., marking the localities. Roman London from the Tower to Ludgate was about a mile in length, and from the Thames to 'Loudon Wall' about half a mile in breadth. Its remains at Cheapside and the Mansion House are found at about 18 feet below the present surface. The Roman city as at first enclosed must, however, have been smaller, as Roman sepulchres have been found in Moorgate Street, Bishopsgate, and Smithfleld, which must then have lain beyond the walled city. The Saxons , who seldom distinguished themselves as builders , contributed nothing to the fortification of London; but the Normans did much, beginning with the erection of the Tower. During the earlier ages of Saxon rule, the great works left here by the Romans — villas, baths, bridges, roads, temples, statuary, — were either destroyed or allowed to fall into decay, as was the case, indeed, all over Britain. London became the capital of one of the Anglo-Saxon kingdoms, and continued to increase in size and importance. The sites of two 64 19. HISTORICAL SKETCH OF LONDON. of modern London's most prominent buildings — Westminster Abbey and St. Paul's Cathedral — were occupied as early as the beginning of the 7th cent, by the modest originals of these two stately churches. Bede, at the beginning of the 8th cent., speaks of London as a great market frequented by foreign traders, and we find it paying one-fifth of a contribution exacted by Canute from the entire kingdom. From William the Conqueror London receiv- ed a charter* in which he engaged to maintain the rights of the city, but the same monarch erected the White Tower to over- awe the citizens in the event of disaffection. At this time the city probably contained 30-40,000 inliabitants. A special promise is made in Magna Charta, extorted from King John, to observe all the ancient privileges of London ; and we may date the present form of its Corporation, consisting of Mayor, Aldermen, and Common Coun- cilmen, from a somewhat earlier period t. The 13th and 14th centu- ries are marked in the amials of London by several lamentable fires, famines, and pestilences, in which many thousands of its inhabitants perished. The year 1380 witnessed the rebellion of Wat Tyler, who was slain by Lord Mayor Walworth at Smithfield. In this outbreak, and still more in that of Jack Cade(1450j, London suffered severely, through the burning and pillaging of its houses. During the reigns of Henry ¥111.(1509-1547} and his daughter Mary (1552-15581, London acquired a terrible familiarity with the fires lighted to consume un- fortunate 'heretics' at the stake, while under the more beneficent reign of Elizabeth (1558-1603), the capital showed its patriotic zeal by its liberal contributions of men, money, and ships, for the purpose of resisting the threatened attack of the Armada. A map of London at this time would show the Tower standing on the verge of the City on the E., while on the W., the much smaller city of Westminster would still be a considerable distance from London. The Strand, or river-side road connecting the two cities, would appear bordered by numerous aristocratic mansions, with gardens extending into the fields or down to the river. Throughout the Norman period, and down to the times of the Plantagenets and the Wars of the Roses, the commonalty lived in poor and mean wooden dwellings; but there were many good houses for the merchants and manufacturers, and many im- portant religious houses and hospitals, while the Thames was provided with numerous convenient quays and landing-stages. The streets, even as lately as the 17th cent., were narrow, dirty, full of ruts and holes, and ill-adapted for traffic. 3Iany improvements, however, were made at the period we have now reached (the end of the 16th cent.), though these still left London A-ery different from what we now see it. * The following is the text of Ibis charter as translated by Bishop Stubbs : — 'William king greets William bishop and Gosfrith portreeve, and all the burghers wiibin London, French and English, friendly; and 1 do you to wit that I will that ye be all lawworthy that were in King Edward's day. And I will that every child be his father's heir after his father's day; and I will not endure that any man otTer any wrong to you. God keep you'. t A deed among the archives of St. Paul's mentions a 'Mavor of the Citv of London' in 1193. 19. HISTORICAL SKETCH OF LONDON. 65 In the Civil Wars, Loudon, which had been most exposed to the exactions of the Star Chamber, naturally sided with the Round- heads. It witnessed Charles L beheaded at the Palace of Whitehall in 1649, and Olivex Cromwell proclaimed Lord Protector of England in 1653 ; and in 1660 it saw Charles 11. placed on the throne by the 'Restoration'. This was a period when England, and London espe- cially, underwent dire suffering in working out the problem of civil and religious liberty, the successful solution of which laid the basis of the empire's greatness. In 1664-1666 London was turned into a city of mourning and lamentation by the ravages of the Great Plague, by which, it is calculated , it lost the enormous number of 100,000 citizens. Closely treading on the heels of one calamity came another — the Great Fire — which, in September, 1666, destroyed 13,000 houses, converting a great part of the eastern half of the city into a scene of desolation. This disaster, however, ulti- mately proved very beneficial to the city, for London was rebuilt in a much improved form, though not so advantageously as it would have been if Sir Christopher Wren's plans had been fully realised. Among the new edifices, the erection of which was necessitated by the fire, was the present St. Paul's Cathedral. Of important build- ings existing before the fire, Westminster Abbey and Hall, the Temple Church, and the Tower are now almost the only examples. Wren fortunately had his own way in building the fifty odd City churches, and the visitor to London should not fail to notice their great variety and the skill with which they are grouped with St. Paul's. A good panorama of the entire group is obtained from the tower of St. Saviour's, Southwark : the general eftect is also visible from Blackfriars Bridge (p. 112). It was not, however, till the reign of Queen Anne (1702-1714), that London began to put on anything like its present appearance. In 1703 it was visited by a fearful storm, by which houses were overthrown, the ships in the river driven on shore, churches un- roofed, property to the value of at least 2,000,000L destroyed, and the lives of several hundreds of persons sacrificed. The winter of 1739-1740 is memorable for the Great Frost, lasting from Christ- mas to St. Valentine's Day, during which a fair was held on the frozen bosom of the Thames. Great injuries were inflicted on the city by the Gordon No-Popery Riots of 1780. The prisons were destroyed , the prisoners released , and mansions were burned or pillaged, thirty-six conflagrations having been counted at one time in different quarters ; and the rioters were not subdued till hundreds of them had paid the penalty of their misdeeds with their lives. Many of the handsomest streets and finest buildings in London date from the latter half of last century. To this period belong the Mansion House, the Horse Guards, Somerset House, and the Bank. During the 19th cent, the march of improvement has been so rapid as to defy description. The Mint, the Custom House, Waterloo Bridge, London Bridge, Buckingham Palace, the Post Office, the British Museum , the Athenaeum Club , the York Column , the National Baeukker, London. 7th Edit. j 66 19. HISTORICAL SKETCH OF LONDON. Gallery, the Houses of Parliament, the new Law Courts, and the whole of Bclgravla and the West End beyond, have all arisen during the last 80 years. An important event in the domestic history of the city was the commencement of gas-lighting in 1807. (Before 1716 the provisions for street-lighting were very imper- fect, but in that year an act was passed ordering every householder to hang out a light before his door from six in the evening till eleven.) From that time to the present London has been ac- tively engaged, by the laying out of spacious thoroughfares and the construction of handsome edifices, in making good its claim to be not only the largest, but also one of the finest cities in the world. The electric light has hitherto been used comparatively little in the London streets ; but in 1889 this question was definitely taken in hand by the Board of Trade and the County Council, and it seems probable that the development of systematic lighting by electricity will now be steady and rapid. No authentic estimate of the population of London can be traced farther back than two centuries. Nor is it easy to determine the area covered by buildings at dilTerent periods. At one time the 'City within the Walls' comprised all ; afterwards was added the -City without the Walls'; then the city and liberties of Westminster; then the borough of Southwark, S. of the river; then numerous parishes between the two cities; and lastly other parishes forming an encircling belt around the whole. All these component elements at length came to be embraced under the name of 'London'. The population was about 700,000 in the year 1700, about 900,000 in 1800, and 1,300.000 in 1821. Each subsequent decennial census included a larger area than the one that preceded it. The original City' of London, covering little more than 1 square mile, has in this way expanded to a great metropolis of fully 120 square miles, contain- ing, in 1S81, a population of 3,814,o71 persons (see p. 69). Extension of commerce has accompanied the growth of population. Statistics of trade in past centuries are wanting; but at the present time London supplies half the total customs-revenue of the kingdom. One-fourth of the whole ship tonnage of England, and one-fourth of the entire exports, are centred in the port of London. (For fuller statistical information, see below, Section 20.) 20. Topography and Statistics. Topography. The city of London is built upon a tract of un- dulating clay soil, which extends irregularly along the valley of the Thames from a point near Reading to Harwich and Heme Bay at the mouth of the river, a distance of about 120 miles. It is divided into two portions by the river Thames, which, rising in the Cotswold Hills in Gloucestershire, is from its source down to its mouth in the German Ocean at Sheerness 230 M. in length , and is navigable for a distance of 50 M. — The southern and less important part of l^oudon ( Southicark and Lambeth) lies in the counties of Surrey and Kent ; the northern and principal portion in Middlesex and Essex. The latter part of the immense city may be divided, in accordance with its general characteristics, into two great halves (not taking into account the extensive outlying districts on the N. and the N.E., which are comparatively uninteresting to strangers) : — 20. TOPOGRAPHY AND STATISTICS. 67 I. The City and the East End, consisting of that part of London which lies to the E. of the Temple, form the commercial and money-making quarter of the metropolis. It embraces the Port, the Docks, the Custom House, the Bank, the Exchange, the in- numerable counting-houses of merchants, money-changers, brokers, and underwriters, the General Post Office, the printing and publish- ing offices of the Times, the legal corporations of the Inns of Court, and the Cathedral of St. Paul's, towering above them all. II. The West End, or that part of the town to the W. of the Temple , is the quarter of London which spends money , makes laws, and regulates the fashions. It contains the Palace of the Queen, the Mansions of the aristocracy , the Clubs , Museums, Picture Galleries, Theatres, Barracks, Government Offices, Houses of Parliament, and Westminster Abbey ; and it is the special locality for parks, squares, and gardens, for gorgeous equipages and pow- dered lackeys. Besides these great divisions, the following districts are distin- guished by their population and leading occupations: — I. On the Left Bank of the Thames : — (a) To the E. of the City is the so-called Long Shore, which extends along the bank of the Thames, and is chiefly composed of quays, wharves, store-houses, and engine-factories , and inhabited by shipwrights, lightermen, sailors, and marine store dealers, (b) Whitechapel, with sugar-bakeries and their German workmen, (c) Houndsditch and the Minories, the quarters of the Jews. (d) Bethnal Green and Spitalfields to the N., and part of Shore- ditch , form a manufacturing district , occupied to a large extent by silk-weavers, partly descended from the French Protestants (Hu- guenots) who took refuge in England after the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685. (e) Clerkenwell, between Islington and Hatton Garden, the district of watch-makers and metal-workers. (f) Paternoster Row, near St. PauVs Cathedral, the focus of the book-trade, (g) Chancery Lane and the Inns of Court, the headquarters of barristers, solicitors, and law-stationers. II, In Surrey, on the Right Bank of the Thames : — (a) Southwark and Lambeth , containing numerous potteries, glass-works, machine-factories, breweries, and hop-warehouses, (b) Bermondsey, famous for its tanneries, glue-factories, and wool-warehouses, (c) Rotherhithe, farther to the E., chiefly inhabited by sailors, ship-carpenters, coalheavers, and bargemen. By the Redistribution Bill of 1885 London is divided for parliamentary purposes into the City Proper, returning two members of parliament, and 27 metropolitan boroughs, comprising 59 single member districts, London University also returns one member, 5* 68 20. TOPOGRAPHY AND STATISTICS. The City Proper^ which strictly speaking forms a county of itself and is neither in Middlesex nor Essex, is bounded on the W. by the site of Temple Bar and Southampton Buildings ; on the N. by Holborn, Smithfleld, Barbican, and Finsbury Circus ; on the E. by Bishopsgate Without, Petticoat Lane, Aldgate, and the Minories ; and on the S. by the Thames. The City is divided into 26 Wards and 108 parishes, has a separate administration and jurisdiction of its own, and is presided over by the Lord Mayor. At the census of 1881 it consisted of 6493 inhabited houses with 50,526 inhabitants (24,371 less than in 1871). The resident population is steadily decreasing on account of the constant emigration to the West End and suburbs, the ground and buildings being so valuable for com- mercial purposes as to preclude their use merely as dwellings. More than 4000 houses are left empty every night under the guardianship of the 800 members of the City police force (p. 69). The dat/ population of the City in 1881 was 261,061, and the number of houses or separate tene- ments in which persons were actively emploved during the day was 25,143. The rateable value of property in 1887 was 3J67,000L or about 300,000?. more than that of Liverpool. Sites for building in the City sometimes realise no less than 20-70Z. per square foot. The annual revenue of the City of London is about 500,000/. In 1881 an attempt was made to esti- mate the number of persons and vehicles entering the City precincts within 24 hours. Enumerators were stationed at 60 different inlets, and their returns showed the enormous totals of 797,563 foot-passengers and 71,893 vehicles. Westminster, to the W. of the City, bounded on the N. by Bayswater Road and Oxford Street, on the W. by Chelsea, Kensing- ton, and Brompton, and on the S. by the Thames, comprises three of the parliamentary boroughs (Westminster Proper or the Abbey Dis- trict, the Strand District, and the District of St. George's, Hanover Square), each returning one member to the House of Commons. It contains 25,312 houses and 228,932 inhabitants. The remaining parliamentary boroughs are Battersea^ Bethnal Green, CamhenoeU, Chelsea, Clapham, Deptford, Finsbury, Ful- ham, Greenwich, Hackney, Hammersmith, Hampstead, Islington, Kensington, Lambeth, Leicisham, Marylebone, Newington, Padding- ton, St. Pancras, Shoreditch, Southicark (including Bermondsey and Rotherhithe), Tower Hamlets, Wandsworth, West Ham, and Wool- tcich. The population, area, and boundaries of these new boroughs are given in a map published by Philip, 32 Fleet Street (6d.) Statistics. The City, the West End, and the Borough, together with the suburban villages which have been gradually absorbed, form the great and constantly extending metropolis of London — a city which, in the words of Tacitus (Ann. 14, 33), was and still is 'copia negotiatorum et corameatuum maxime celebre'. It has doubled in size within the last half-century, being now, from Strat- ford and Blackwall on the E. to Kew Bridge and Acton on the W., 14 M. in length, and from Clapham and Heme Hill on the S. to Hornsey and Highgate on the N., 8M. in breadth, while it covers an area of 122 square miles. This area is, at a rough estimate, occupied by 7800 streets, which if laid end to end would form a line 3000 M. long, lighted by a million gas-lamps consuming daily 28,000,000 20. TOPOGRAPHY AND STATISTICS. 69 cubic feet of gas. The 528,794 buildings of this gigantic city in- clude 1400 churches of various denominations, 7500 public houses, 1700 coffee - houses, and 500 hotels and inns. The Metropolitan and City Police District, which extends 12-15 M. in every direction from Charing Cross, embraces an area of 690 sq. M., with streets and roads measuring 7000 M. in aggregate length. The annual value of house property was estimated in 1886 at nearly 34 millions sterling. According to the census of 1881, the population of London consisted of 3,814,571 souls (or within the bounds of the Metropolitan Police District 4,766,661; now considerably above 5,000,000j, showing an increase of 562,660 over that of 1871. The annual increase is about 70,000. Among these there are about 3000 master-tailors, 2800 bakers, 2400 butchers (besides many thousands of men and women in their employ), and 300,000 domestic servants. The number of paupers was 141,770. The population of Lon- don has been almost exactly doubled within the last forty years (pop. in 1841, l,948,417j, and within the same period about 2000 M. of new streets have been constructed. There are in London more Scotsmen than in Edinburgh, more Irish than in Dublin, more Jews than in Palestine, and more Roma Catholics than in Rome. Statistics as to the consumplion of food in this A'ast hive of human beings are not easily obtained; but we may state approximately that there are annually consumed about 2,000.000 quarters of wheat, 400.000 oxen, 1,500,000 sheep, 130,000 calves, 250,000 swine, 8 million head of poultry and game, 400 million pounds offish, 500 million oysters, 1,200,000 lobsters, and 3,000,000 salmon. The butcher-meat alone is valued at 50,000,000^ The Londoners wash down this vast annual repast by 180 million quarts of porter and ale, 8 million quarts of spirits, and 31 million quarts of wine, not to speak of the 150 million gallons of v.ater supplied every day by the nine water-companies. About 1000 collier-vessels yearly bring 4,000,000 tons of coal into London by the river, while the railways supply about as much more. The sum of money spent by the whole population each year may be estimated as at least 200,000,000?. The number of vessels vvhich annually enter the port of London is about 20,000, while the average value of exports from the Thames is not less than one hundred millions sterling. Between 1856 and 1889 the important Metropolitan Improve- ments, undertaken for the facilitation of traffic and for the sanitary benefit of the population, were superintended by the Metropolitun Board of Works. This body, however, ceased to exist on March 31st, 1889, and all its powers and duties have been transferred to the London* County Council, a new body called into existence by an Act of Parliament passed in 1888. Various new powers have also been conferred on the Council. The new ^Administrative County of London' includes the City of London and parts of the counties of Middlesex, Essex, Surrey, and Kent. Its electoral divisions coincide with the parliamentary boroughs mentioned at p. 68, two Councillors being elected by the borough franchise for each divi- sion. With the 19 Aldermen appointed by the Council itself, the total number of members is thus 137. Though the Metropolitan Board of Works never exactly met the idea 70 20. TOPOGRAPHY AND STATISTICS. of a popular elective body and though it had practically lost the public contideuce before its extinction, it is yet impossible to deny that it ac- complished many public works of great magnificence and utility. The ex- penses connected with these works — the construction of new streets, the extension of old ones, and so on — were of course enormous, and as much as 9O0,0O0Z. has been paid for a single acre uf ground. Half a mil- lion sterling was paid for Northumberland House, by Charing Cross, re- . moved for The purpose of opening up the short new street to the Thames, named Northumberland Avenue. The most important work of the Board was the new system of Interceptive Main Drainage^ begun in 1859 under the superintendence of Sir Joseph Bazalgette, and carried out at a cost of 6,500,000/. Formerly all the drainage of London was conducted directly into the Thames, to the amount of 10,000.000 cubic feet on the N. and 4,000 000 cubic feet on the S. side, with the virtual result of converting the river into a huge, offensive, and pernicious cess-pool (especially in summer). The new system consists of large sewers or tunnels, constructed nearly parallel with the Thames as far as Barking Creek, 14 M. below London, on the left bank of the river, and to Crossness on the right, where the drainage is made to flow into the Thames at high water with the view of its being carried out to sea by the ebb-tide. Great complaints have been made, however, that the more solid parts of the sewage are not carried out to sea, but form thick deposits at the bottom of the river ; and though the sewage is now subjected to an elaborate chemical process of deodorisation before its discharge into the river, it can hardly be as- serted that the drainage problem has been linally solved. It is worthy of remark that this pollution of the most important river in Britain is at present made legal by an exceptional clause in the River Pollution Prevention Act. The main sewers, of which there are three on the N. side of the Thames, independent of each other and at different levels, consist of tunnels lined with brick, lift, wide and 10ft. high. Their aggregate length amounts to 85 M. — The new Thames Embankment, de- scribed at p. 113, is another and scarcely less important undertaking of the Board of Works. — Among the new Sti'eets formed by the Board are Clerkenwell Pi,oad, Great Eastern Street, Queen Victoria Street (p. 115), Charing Cross Road (p. 147), and Shaftesbury Avenue (p. 147), while several important street-improvements are still in progress. — All the Bridges over the Thames on which toll was levied have been made free by the Board at a cost of IV2 million sterling. — The acquisition and opening of Parks and other Open Spaces were also among the Board's duties. The London Fire Brigade^ a well-equipped force of 600 men, is under the co^rtrol of the County Council. It is maintained at an annual cost of upwards of 115.000L The elementary education of London is attended to by the Lon- don School Board, consisting of 55 members, elected by the City and the ten other districts into which London is divided for the educational franchise. In the City the electors are the voters for Common Councilmen, in the other divisions the rate-payers. The annual income of the Board, exclusive of loans, is over 1,500,000^., about 87 per cent of which is derived from taxation and 13 per cent from fees. The 400 schools provided by the board accommo- date nearly 400,000 children, out of a total of 628,000 upon the roll of efficient schools. The office of the board is on the Victoria Embankment, near the Temple Station (see p. 113). 71 21. General Hints. Some of the following remarks may be deemed superfluous by many readers of this Handbook ; but a few observations on English or London peculiarities may not be unacceptable to the American, the English-speaking foreigner, or the provincial visitor. In England, Sunday, as is well known, is observed as a day of rest and of public worship. Shops, places of amusement, galleries, and the City restaurants are closed the whole day, while other restaurants are open from 1 to 3, and from 6 to 11 p.m. only. Many places of business are closed from 1, 2. or 3 p.m. on Saturday till Monday morning. Among these are all the banks and insurance offices and practically all the whole- sale warehouses. Like '■s'il vous plaW in Paris, '*/ you please' or '•please'' is generally used in ordering refreshments at a cafe or restaurant, or in making any request. The English forms of politeness are, however, by no means so minute or ceremonious as the French. For example, the hat is raised to ladies only, and is worn in all public places, such as shops, cafes, music halls, and museums. The fashionable hour for paying visits in London is between 4 and 6 p.m. The proper mode of delivering a letter of introduction is in per- son, along with the bearer's visiting-card and address; but when this is rendered inconvenient by the greatness of distance or other cause, the letter may be sent by post, accompanied by a polite explanation. The usual dinner hour of the upper classes varies from 6 to 8 or even 9 p.m. It is considered permissible for guests invited to a dinner-party to arrive a few minutes late, but they should take care never to be be- fore the time. Gentlemen remain at table, over their wine, for a short time after the ladies have left. Foreigners may often obtain, through their ambassadors, permission to visit private collections which are not open to the ordinary English tourist. We need hardly caution new-comers against the artilices of pick- pockets and the wiles of impostors, two fraternities which are very nu- merous in London. It is even prudent to avoid speaking to strangers in the street. All information desired by the traveller may be obtained from one of the policemen, of whom about 14,000 (500 mounted) perambulate the streets of the metropolis. If a policeman is not readily found, appli- cation may be made to a postal letter carrier, to a commissionnaire, or at a neighbouring shop. A considerable degree of caution and presence of mind is often requisite in crossing a crowded thoruughfare, and in entering or alighting from a train or omnibus. The 'rule of the road' for foot-passengers in busy streets is to keep to the right. Poor neigh- bourhoods should be avoided after nightfall. Strangers are also warned against Afock Auctions, a specious trap for the unwary, and indeed should neither buy nor sell at any auction in London without the aid of an ex- perienced friend or a trustworthy broker. Addresses of all kinds may be found in Kelly^s Post Office Directory^ a thick volume of 3000 pages, or in Morris's Directory, a less extensive work, one or other of which may be seen at all the hotels and cafes and at most of the principal shops. The addresses of residents at the West End and other suburbs may also be obtained from Boyle's Court Guide, Webster's Royal Red Book, the Royal Blue Book, or Kelly's Suburban Di- rectory, and those of city men and firms in Colling ridge^s City Directory. A useful adjunct to most houses in the central parts of London is a Cab }VTiistle, one blast upon which summons a four-wheeler, two a hansom. Among the characteristic sights of London is the Lord Mayor's Show (9th Nov.), or the procession in which — maintaining an ancient and picturesque, though useless custom — the newly-elected Lord Mayor moves, amid great pomp and ceremony, through the streets from the City to the new Courts of Justice, in order to take the oath of office. It is followed by the great dinner in the Guildhall (p. 99). 72 22. Guilds, Charities, Societies, Clubs. Guilds. The City Companies ox Guilds of London were once upwards of one hundred in number , ahout eighty of which still exist, though few exercise their ancient privileges. Ahout forty of them possess halls in which they transact business and hold festivities ; the others meet either in rooms lent to them at Guild- hall, or at the offices of the respective clerks. All the companies except five are called Livery Companies, and the members are en- titled , on ceremonial occasions, to wear the liveries (gowns, furs, etc.) of their respective guilds. Many of the companies possess vast estates and revenues , while others possess neither halls nor almshouses, neither estates nor revenues, — nothing but ancient charters to which they reverentially cling. Some of the guildhouses are among the most interesting buildings in London, and are no- ticed throughout the Handbook. The Twelve Great Companies, wealthier and more influential than the rest , are the Mercers, Grocers , Drapers , Fishmongers . Goldsmiths , Skinners , Merchant Taylors, Haberdashers, Salters, Ironmongers, Vintners, and Cloth- workers. Some of the companies represent trades now quite ex- tinct , and by their unfamiliar names strikingly illustrate the fact how completely they have outlived their original purpose. Such are the Bowyers, Broderers, Girdlers, Homers, Loriners (saddler's ironmongers). Patten Makers, and Scriveners. Charities. The charities of London are on a scale commensurate with the vastness of the city, being no fewer than 2000 in number. They comprise hospitals, dispensaries, asylums; bible, tract, mis- sionary, and district visiting societies; provident homes, orphanages, etc. A tolerably complete catalogue will be foundin Low's Handbook of the Charities of London, Howe's Classified Directory of Metropolitan Charities (^is.), or Dickens's Dictionary of London. In 1885 the total voluntary subscriptions, donations, and bequests to these charities amounted to 4,447, OOOi., or more than ll. for each man, woman, and child in the capital. The institution of 'Hospital Sunday', on which collections are made in all the churches for the hospitals, produces a yearly revenue of about 40,000L Non-church-goers have a similar opportunity afforded them on 'Hospital Saturday', when about 750 ladies station themselves at street-corners to receive contributions; this produces about 10,000Z. more. Tlie following is a brief list of the chief general hospitals , besides which there are numerous special hospitals for cancer, smallpox, fever, consumption, eye and ear diseases, and so forth. Charing Cross, Agar Street, Strand. — French Hospital, Shaftes- bury Avenue. — German, Dalston. — Great Northern, Caledonian Road. — Guy's, St. Thomas Street, Southwark. — King's College, Carey Street, Strand. — London, Whitechapel Road. — Metro- politan Free, 81 Commercial Street, Spitalflelds. — Middlesex, Mor- 22. SOCIETIES. 73 timer Street, Berners Street. — University College, or North Lon- don, Gower Street. — Royal Free, Gray's Inn Road. — St. Bartho- lomew's, Smithfleld. — St. George's, Hyde Park Corner. — St. Mary's, Cambridge Place, Paddington. — St. Thomas's, Albert Embankment. — West London, Hammersmitli Road. — Westminster, Broad Sanctuary. Societies. The societies for the encouragement of industry, art, and science in London are extremely numerous, and many of them possess most ample endowments. The names of a few of the most important may be given liere, some of them being described at length in other parts of tlie Handbook : — Royal Society, Royal Academy, Society of Antiquaries, Geolo- gical Society, Royal Astronomical Society, Linnaean Society, Chem- ical Society, all in Burlington House, Piccadilly. — Royal Archaeo- logical Institute, Oxford Mansions, Oxford Street. — Royal Academy of Music, 4 Tenterden Street, Hanover Square. — Royal College of Music, near the Albert Hall. — • Royal College of Physicians, Pall Mall East. — Royal College of Surgeons, Lincoln's Inn Fields. — Royal Geographical Society, 1 Savile Row, Burlington Gardens. — Royal Asiatic Society, 22 Albemarle Street, Piccadilly. — Royal Society of Literature, 21 Delahay Street, Westminster. — Society for the Encouragement of Arts , Manufactures , and Commerce , generally known as the Society of Arts, John Street, Adelphi, Strand. — Trinity College (mnsia and arts). 13 Mandeville Place, Manchester Square. — Heralds' College, Queen Victoria Street. — Institution of Civil Engineers, 25 Great George Street, Westminster. — Institute of British Architects, IG Lower Grosvenor Street, Gros- venor Square. — Sanitary Institute of Great Britain (Museum of Hygiene), 74a Margaret Street, Cavendish Square. — School of Electrical Engineering and Submarine Telegraphy, 12 Prince's Street, Hanover Square. — Royal Institution, 21 Albemarle Street, Picca- dilly. Popular lectures on science, art, and literature are delivered here on Friday evenings during the Season (adm. by a member's order). Six lectures for children, illustrated by experiments, are given after Christmas. — City and Guilds of London Institute, Ex- hibition Road, South Kensington, for the advancement of technical education. The Clubs are chiefly devoted to social purposes. Most of the club-houses at the West End, particularly those in or near Pall Mall, are very handsome, and admirably fitted up, affording every possible comfort. To a bachelor in particular his "club" is a most serviceable in- stitution. Members are admitted by ballot, but candidates are reject- ed by a certain small proportion of 'black balls' or dissentient votes. The entrance fee varies from bl. bs. to AOl. (usually about 25f. j, and the annual subscription is from 3/. 3.'*. to ibl. lbs. The introduition of guests by a member is allowed in some, but not in all of the clubs. The cuisine is usually admirable. The wine and viands, which are 74 22. CLUBS. sold at little more than cost price, often attain a pitch of excellence unequalled by the most elaborate and expensive restaurants. We append an alphabetical list of the most important clubs : — Albemarle, 25 Albemarle Street, for ladies and gentlemen. Alexandra, 12 Grosvenor Street, W., for ladies only. Alpine Club, 8 St. Martin's Place, Trafalgar Square. Army and Navy Club, 36-39 Pall Mall, N. side, corner of George Street ; 2350 members. Arthur's Club, 69 St. James's Street. Athenaeum Club, 107 Pall Mall, the club of the literati; 1200 members. (^Distinguished strangers visiting London may be elected honorary members of the Athenseum during their temporary resi- dence in London.) Badminton Club, Piccadilly fsporting and coaching club). Boodle's Club , 28 St. James's Street (chiefly for country gen- tlemen). Brooks's Club, 60 St. James's Street. Burlington Fine Arts Club, 17 Savile Row. Carlton Club, 94 Pall Mall, the chief Conservative club; 1600 members. Cigar Club, 6 Waterloo Place. City Carlton Club, 24 St. Swithin's Lane. City Liberal Club, Walbrook. City of London Club, 19 Old Broad Street, City. Conservative Club, 74 St. James's Street; 1200 members. Constitutional Club (Conservative), Northumberland Avenue ; 6500 members. Devonshire Club, 50 St. James's Street ; 1500 members. East India United Service Club, 16 St. James's Square. Empire Club (Colonies and India), 4 Grafton Street, Piccadilly. French National Society Club, Adelphi Terrace, Strand. Garrick Club, 13 and 15 Garrick Street, Covent Garden, for lit- erary men and actors. German Athenaeum Club, 93 Mortimer Street, W. Gresham Club, 1 Gresham Place, City. Grosvenor Club, 135 New Bond Street. Guards' Club, 70 Pall Mall. Isthmian Club, 150 Piccadilly. Junior Army and Navy Club, 10 St. James's Street. Junior Athenaeum Club, 116 Piccadilly. Junior Carlton Club, 30-35 Pall Mall ; 2100 members. Junior Constitutional Club, 14 Regent Street. Junior United Service Club, corner of Regent Street and Charles Street ; 2000 members. Kennel Club, 29a Pall Mall ; for improving the breed of dogs. National Club, 1 Whitehall Gardens. National Conservative Club. 9 Pall Mall. 22. CLUBS. 75 National Liberal Club , corner of Northumberland Avenue and Whitehall Place ; 6500 members. National Union Club, 23 Albemarle Street, W. Naval and Military Club, 94 Piccadilly; 2000 members. New University Club, 57, 58 St. James's Street. Northbrook Club , 3 Whitehall Gardens (for Indian gentlemen and others interested in Indian affairs). Oriental Club, 18 Hanover Square. Orleans Club, 29 King Street, St. James's (see also p. 326). Oxford and Cambridge Club, 71-76 Pall Mall. (Those only who have studied at Oxford or Cambridge are eligible as members.) Pall Malt Club, 7 Waterloo Place. Prince's Club, Knightsbridge (mainly for racquets, tennis, etc.). Raleigh Club. 16 Regent Street; 1400 members. Reform Club, the chief Liberal club, 104 Pall Mall; 1400 members. St. George's Club, Hanover Square, with which is combined the Imperial and American Club ; 3000 members. St. James's Club, 106 Piccadilly; for the diplomatic service. St. Stephen's Club, 1 Bridge Street, Westminster ; 1500 members. Savage Club, Savoy Place, Strand. Savile Club, 107 Piccadilly. Scottish Club. 39 Dover Street, Piccadilly. SomerviUe Club, 231 Oxford Street ; for ladies only. Thatched House Club, 86 St. James's Street. Travellers' Club, 106 Pall Mall. (Each member must have trav- elled at least 500 M. from London.) Turf Club, 47 Clarges Street, Piccadilly. Union Club, Trafalgar Square, corner of Cockspur Street. United Service Club, 116 Pall Mall; 1600 members. (Members must not hold lower rank than that of major in the army, or com- mander in the navy.) United University Club, Pall Mall East, corner of Suffolk Street. Whitehall Club, 47 Parliament Street. White's Club, 38 St. James's Street. (Tliis club was formerly celebrated for its high play.) Windham Club, 11 St. James's Square. The Royal Colonial Institute, Northumberland Avenue, founded in 1868 for the purpose of 'providing a place of meeting for all gentlemen connected with the Colonies and British India', offers many of the advantages of a good club. 23. Preliminary Ramble. Nothing is better calculated to afford the traveller some insight into the labyrinthine topography of London , to enable him to ascertain his bearings, and to dispel the tirst oppressive feeling of 76 23. PRELIMINARY RAMBLE. solitude and inslgniflcance , than a drive througli the principal quarters of the town. The outside of an omnibus affords a much better view than a cab (fares, see p. 28), and, moreover, has the advantage of cheap- ness. If the driver, beside whom tlie stranger should sit, happens to be obliging (and a small gratuity will generally make him so), he will afford much useful information about the buildings, monu- ments , and other sights on the route ; but care should be taken not to distract his attention in crowded parts. Even without such assistance, however, our plan of the city, if carefully consulted, will supply all necessary information. If ladies are of the party, an open Fly (see p. 28) is the most comfortable conveyance. Taking Hyde Park Corner, at the W. end of Piccadilly, as a con- venient starting-point, we mount one of the numerous omnibuses which ply to the Bank and London Bridge and traverse nearly the whole of the quarters lying on the N. bank of the Thames. Entering Piccadilly, we first pass, on the right, the Green Park, beyond which rises Buckingham Palace (p. 257). A little farther to the E., in the distance, we descry the towers of Westminster Abbey (p. 193) and the Houses of Parliament (p. 18-4). In Regent Street on the right, at some distance off, rises the York Column (p. 219). Passing Piccadilly Circus, we drive to the right through the Hay- market, at the end of which, on the left, is the theatre of that name (p. 40 ), and, on the right, Her Majesty's Opera House (p. 40). We now come to Trafalgar Square, with the Nelson Monument (p. 145) and the National Gallery (p. 147). On the right, in the direction of Whitehall, we observe the old statue of Charles L Passing Charing Cross, with the large Charing Cross Hotel (p. 7) on the right, we enter the Strand, where the Adelphi, Lyceum, Gaiety, and other theatres lie on our left, and the Savoy, Terry's, and Strand theatres on our right (p. 41). Through Salisbury Street, on the right, a glimpse is obtained of Cleopatra's Needle (p. 114). Farther on, on the left is Southampton Street, leading to Covent Garden (p. 180), and on the right Wellington Street, with Somerset House (p. 142) near the corner, leading to Waterloo Bridge (p. 143). Near the middle of the Strand we reach the churches of St. Mary le Strand (p. 142) and St. Clement Danes (p. 141). On the left we see the extensive new Law Courts (p. 139). Passing the site of Temple Bar (recently removed ; see p. 140), we now enter the City proper (p. 66). On the right of Fleet Street are several entrances to the Temple (p. 136), while on the left rises the church of St. Dunstan in the West (p. 135). At the end of Farringdon Street, diverging on the left, we notice the Holborn Viaduct Bridge (p. 93); on the right, in New Bridge Street, is the Ludgate Hill Station. We next drive up Ludgate Hill, pass St. Pauls Cathedral (p. 81) on the left, and turn to the left to Cheapside, noticing the monument of Sir Robert Peel (p. 90), a little to the N. of which is the General 23. PRELIMINARY RAMBLE. 77 Post Office (p. 90). In Oheapside wc observe Bow Church (p. 101) on the right, and near it the Guildhall (p. 98) at the end of King Street on the left. Quitting Oheapside, we enter the Poultry, in which the Mansioii House (p. 102 ) rises on the right. Opposite the Mansion House is the Bank of Kngland (p. 103), and before us is the Royal Exchange (p. 104), with Wellington's Statue in front. We then drive through King William Street, with the Statue of William IV., observing the Monument fp. 110) on the left. We now quit the omnibus, and, after a walk across London Bridge (p. 109) and back, pass through part of Gracechurch Street on the right, and follow Fenchurch Street to the station of the Lon- don and Bltickwall Railway. A train on this line carries us to Blackwall, whence we ascend the Thaines by one of the Greenxoich Steamers^ passing London Docks (p. 126), St. Katherine's Docks (p. 126), the Tower (p. 117), the Custom House fp- H^), and Bil- lingsgate (p. Ill), to London Bridge. Here we may disembark, and take an omnibus back to Hyde Park Corner, or, continuing in the same boat, may pass under the Cannon Street Station Railway Bridge, Southwark Bridge (with St. Paul's rising on the right), the Chatham and Dover Bridge, and Blackfriars Bridge. Be- tween Blackfriars Bridge and Westminster runs the Victoria Em- bankment (p. 113). On the right are the Temple and Somerset House (p. 142). The steamer then passes under Waterloo Bridge (p. 143), beyond which, to the right, on the Embankment, stands Cleopatra's Needle (p. 114). We alight at Charing Cross Pier, ad- jacent to the Charing Cross Railway Bridge, and re-embark in a Chelsea Boat^ which will convey us past Montague House (p. 184), Rich- mond Terrace, Westminster Bridge, and the Houses of Parliament (p. 184), behind which is Westminster Abbey (p. 193). On the left is the Albert Embankment, with St. Thomas's Hospital (p. 297) ; and, farther on, Lambeth Palace (p. 297) with the Lollards' Tower, Lambeth Bridge, and, on the right, Millbank Penitentiary (p. 292). We then reach Vauxhall Bridge. From Vauxhall the traveller may walk or take a tramway car to Victoria Station, whence an omnibus will convey him to Oxford Street. In order to obtain a view of the quarters on the right (S.) bank of the Thames, or Surrey side, we take a light-green Atlas omnibus (not a City Atlas) in Regent Circus, Oxford Street (Plan R, 23), and drive through Regent Street, Regent's Quadrant, Regent Circus (Piccadilly), Regent Street (continued), Waterloo Place (with the Crimean Monument and the York Column), Pall Mall East, and Charing Cross to (right) Whitehall. Here we observe on the left Scotland Yard, the chief police-station of London, and Whitehall Chapel (p. 181), and on the right the Admiralty, the Horse Guards (p. 183), and the Government Offices. Our route next lies through Parliament Street, beyond which we pass Westminster Abbey (p. 193) aiid the Houses of Parliament (p. 184) on the right. The 78 24. DISPOSITION OF TIME. ouuiibus then crosses Westminster Bridge, with the Victoria Em- bankment on the left, and the Albert Embankment and St. Thomas's Hospital on the right. Traversing Westminster Bridge Road, we observe at the end of it, on the right , Christchurch and Hawkstone Hall, occupying the site of the recently removed Orphan Asylum. In Lambeth Koad ve perceive the Church of St. Georges, the Ro- man Catholic Cathedral of Southwark, and, opposite to it, Bethlehem Hospital. On the AV. side of Circus Place, with its obelisk, rises the Blind Asylum. A little to the S. of this point, we arrive at the Elephant and Castle (on the right), where we alight, to resume our journey on a blue Waterloo omnibus. This takes us through London Road to Waterloo Road, to the right of which are the Surrey Theatre (Blackfriars Road), Magdalene Hospital, and the Victoria Music Hall (p. 43 I, and on the left the South Western Railway Station. We then cross Waterloo Bridge, drive along Wellington Street, pass- ing Somerset House, and turn to the left into the Strand, which leads us to Charing Cross. Our first curiosity having thus been gratified by a general survey of London, we may now devote our attention to its coUections, mon- uments, and buildings in detail. 24. Disposition of Time. The most indefatigable sight-seer will take at least three weeks to obtain even a superficial acquaintance with London and its objects of interest. A plan of operations, prepared beforehand, will aid him in regulating his movements and economising his time. Fine days should be spent in visiting the docks, parks, gardens, and environs. Excursions to the country around London, in particular, should not be postponed to the end of one's sojourn, as otherwise the setting in of bad weather may altogether preclude a visit to the many beautiful spots in the neighbourhood. Rainy days had better be de- voted to the galleries and museums. The following list shows the days and hours when the various collec- tions and other sights are accessible. The early forenoon and late after- noon hours may be appropriately spent in visiting the principal churches, many of which are open the whole day, or in walking in the parks or in the Zoological and the Botanical Gardens, while the evenings may be devoted to the theatres. The best time for a promenade in Regent Street or Hyde Park is between 5 and 7 o'clock, when they both present a remarkably busy and attractive scene. When the traveller happens to be near London Bridge he should take the opportunity of crossing it in order to obtain a view of the Port of London and its adjuncts, with its sea- going vessels arriving or departing, the innumerable river craft of all sizes, and the vast traffic in the docks. A trip to Gravesend (see p. 345) should by all means be taken in order to obtain a proper view of the shipping, no other port in the world presenting such a sight. The following data, though carefully revised down to 1889, are liable to frequent alteration. The traveller is therefore recommended to consult one of the principal London newspapers with regard to the sights of the day. Our list does not include pyrks, gardens, and other places which, op all week-days at least, are open to the public gratis. 24. DISPOSITION OF TIME. 79 Academy of Arts (p. 221), exhibition of paintings and sculpture, from May to the first Monday in August, open daily 10-7 (is.'). Bethnal Green Museum (p. 128), open free on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. ; on Wed- nesday, 10-4, 5, or 6, admission Qd. **British Museum (p. 233), daily from 10 a.m. till 4, 5, or G p.m. according to the season (on Mondays and Saturdays in summer till 7 or 8 p.m.) ; the reading-room is open to readers daily from 9 a.m. The Museum is closed on Good Friday and Christmas Day. Chelsea Hospital (p. 292), daily, 10-1 and 2-7. *Crystal Palace, Sydenham (p. 305) , open daily, Sundays ex- cepted, from 10 a.m. till the evening, sometimes as late as 10 or 11 p.m. Admission is. ; Saturday occasionally 2s. 6d. ; special days de arer ; children half-price. *Dulwich Gallery (p. 312), daily, Sundays excepted, 10-5, in winter 10-4. ^Foundling Hospital (p. 228), Mon. 10-4, and Sun. after morn- ijig service. Geological Museum{^. 112'), Mon. and Sat. 10-10, Tues., Wed., and Thurs. 10-5 ; closed 10th Aug. to 10th Sept. Greenwich Hospital [p. 301), daily from 10 a.m. (Sun. from 2 p.m.) to 4, 5, or 6 p.m. Guildhall Museum (p. 99), daily, summer 10-5; winter 10-4. *Hampton Court Gallery (p. 317), daily, except Fridays, 10-6; in winter 10-4 (Sundays 2-6 or 2-4). * India Museum (p. 289), daily, 10 to 4, 5, or 6; free. *Kew Gardens (p. 322), daily, 12-6; Sundays 1-6 p.m. **National Gallery (p. 147), Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays, 10 to 4, 5, 6, or 7, according to the season, free; Thursdays and Fridays, after 11 o'clock, Qd. **National Portrait Gallery (p. 129), now in Bethnal Green Museum (see ahove). * Natural History Museum (p. 273), daily from 10 to 4, 5, or 6 (closed on Sundays, Good Friday, and Christmas Day). ^Parliament, Houses of (p. 184), on Saturday, 10-4, by tickets obtained gratis at the office of the Lord Chamberlain. Royal College of Surgeons (p. 177), Mondays, Tuesdays, Wed- nesdays, and Thursdays, 12-5 in summer, and 12-4 in winter ; by special permission. '-^^Saint PauVs Cathedral (p. 81), daily, 9-5, except Sundays and the hours of divine service (admission to the crypt, etc., see p. 84). Soane Museum (p. 178), Tues., Wed., Thurs., and Sat. in April, May, June, July, and August, and Tues. and Thurs. in Feb. and March, from 11 to 5. Society of Arts (p. 144), daily, except Wednesdays, 10-4 p.m. **South Kensington Museum (p. 275), Mondays, Tuesdays, and Saturdays, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., gratis; Wednesdays, Thursdays, 80 '^- DIARY. and Fridays, 10 a.m. to 4, 5. or 6 p.m. according to the season, admission 6rf. * Temple C/turc/j (p. 136), daily, 10-1 and 2-4 oclock, Saturday excepted (free). The rotunda is open to the public on Sundays during divine service. *7'otrer(p. 117), daily, 10-4, except Sundays; Mondays and Sa- turdays free; other days, Armoury 6d. and Grown Jewels 6d. I'nited Service Museum (p. 182), daily, except Fridays and Sun- days. 11-5, in winter 11-4 p.m. ** Westminster Abbey (p. 193), daily, except Sundays, 9 a.m. till dusk. Admission to the chapels 6rf. ; on Mondays and Tuesdays free. Divine service on Sundays. *Zoologic(il Gardens (p. 229), daily, except Sundays (when mem- bers only are admitted); admission Is., Mondays 6d. The royal palaces, Ihe mansions of the nobility and gentry, the Bank, the Mint, the Times Printing Office, and other objects of interest for which a special permission is required, can be visited only on the days and at the hours indicated in the order. Diary. (To be compared with the above alphabetical list.) Sundays. Hampton Court, Picture Gallery 2-6, in winter 2-4; Gardens from 2 till dusk. — Kew Gardens, 1-6. — Greenwich Hospital, Pictures, 2 to 4, 5, or 6 p.m. — Foundling Hospital, after morning service. Mondays. Tower, 10-4 (10-6 in summer), free. — • Temple Church, 10-1 and 2-4, free. — Westminster Abbey, 9-3, in summer 4-6 also, free. — National Gallery, 10-6, in winter 10-5. — Royal College of Surgeons, by permission, 12-5, in winter 12-4. — St. Paul's Cathedral, 9-5 (crypt, clock, bell, whispering gallery, etc., various fees). — South Kensington Museum, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., gratis. — Bethnal Green Museum and National Portrait Gallery, 10-10, gratis. — Geological Museum, 10-10. — British Museum, 10 to 4-8. — United Service Museum, 11-5, in winter 11-4, by permission. — India Museum, 10-6, free. — Foundling Hospital, 10-4. — Greenwich Hospital, 10 to 4-6. — Chelsea Hospital, 10-1 and 2-7. — Society of Arts, 10-4. —Guildhall Museum, 10 to 4 or 5. — Zoological Gardens, from 9 a.m. (6rf.). — Kew Gardens, 12-6. — Dulwich Gallery, 10-5, in winter 10-4. —Hampton Court, 10-6. — Crystal Palace at Sydenham, 10 a.m. till dusk (Is.). Tuesdays. Tower, 10-4 (armouries 6d., crown jewels 6d.). — Temple Church, 10-1 and 2-4 (free). — Westminster Abbey, 9-3, in summer 9-6, free. — St. Paul's Cathedral, 9-5 (crypt, etc., various fees). — National Gallery, 10-6. — Royal College of Surgeons, 10 to 4 or 5. — South Kensington Museum, 10 a.m. to 10p.m., gratis. — Bethnal Green Museum and National Portrait Gallery, 10-10, gratis. — British Museum, 10 to 4, 5, or 6. — Geo- logical Museum, 10-5. — United Service Mueeum, 11-5, in winter 24. DIARY. 80 a 11-4. — India Museum, 10-6, free. — Soane Museum, by card ob- tained -witbin, from Feb. to Aug., 11-5. — Guildhall Museum, 10 to 4 or 5. — Zoological Gardens, from 9 a.m. (Is.). — Kew Gardens, 12-6. — Dulwicb Gallery, 10-5, in winter 10-4. — Hampton Court, 10-6. — Crystal Palace at Sydenham, 10 a.m. till dusk (Is.). — Greenwich Hospital, 10 till 4-6. — Chelsea Hospital, 10-1 and 2-7. — Society of Arts, 10-4. Wednesdays. Tower, 10-4 (armouries, etc., Is.). — Temple Church, 10-J and 2-4 (free). — Westminster Abbey, 9-3, and in summer 4-6 (chapels 6d.). — St. Paul's Cathedral, 9-5 (various fees). — National Gallery, 10-6. — Royal College of Surgeons, 12 to 4 or 5. — South Kensington Museum, 10 a.m. till dusk (6d.). — Bethnal Green Museum and National Portrait Gallery, 10 to 4, 5, or6(6d.). — India Museum, 10-6, free. — Guildhall Museum, 10to4or5. — Geological Museum, 10-5 — British Museum, 10 to 4, 5, or 6. — Soane Museum, by card obtained within, from April to Aug., 11-5. — United Service Museum, 10-5, in winter 11-4. — Zoolo- gical Gardens, from 9 a.m. (Is.). — Dulwich Gallery, 10-5, in winter 10-4. — Hampton Court, 10-6. — Crystal Palace, Sydenham, 10 a.m. till dusk (Is.). — Kew Gardens, 12-6. — Greenwich Hospital, 10 to 4-6. — Chelsea Hospital, 10-1 and 2-7. Thursdays. Tower, 10-4 (armouries, etc., Is.). — Temple Church, 10-1 and 2-4 (free). — Westminster Abbey, 9-3, and in summer 4-6 also (chapels 6d.). — St. Paul's Cathedral, 9-5 (various fees). — National Gallery, 11 to 5 or 6 (6d.). — South Kensington Mu- seum, 10 a.m. till dusk (6d.). — Bethnal Green Museum and National Portrait Gallery, 10 to 10, gratis. — British Museum, 10 to 4, 5, or 6. — Geological Museum, 10-5. — Soane Museum (Feb. to Aug.), 11-5. — Guildhall Museum, 10 to 4 or 5. — United Service Museum, 11-5, in winter 11-4. — India Museum, 10-6, free. — Zoological Gardens, from 9 a.m. (Is.). — Dulwich Gallery, 10-5, in winter 10-4. — Hampton Court, 10-6. — Crystal Palace at Sydenham, 10 a.m. till dusk. (is.). — Kew Gardens, 12-6. — Greenwich Hospital, 10 till 4, 5, or6. — Chelsea Hospital, 10-1 and 2-7. — Society of Arts, 10-4. Fridays. Tower, 10-4 (armouries, etc., Is.). — Temple Church, 10-1 and 2-4 (free). — Westminster Abbey, 9-3, and in summer 4-6 also (chapels 6d.). — St. Paul's Cathedral, 9-5 (various fees). — National Gallery, 11 to 5 or 6 (6cZ.). — South Kensington Museum. 10 a.m. till dusk (6d.). — Bethnal Green Museum ami National Portrait Gallery, 10 to 10, gratis. — Guildhall Museum, 10 to 4 or 5. — British Museum, 10 to 4, 5, or 6. — India Museum, 10-6, free. — Greenwich Hospital, 10 to dusk. — Chelsea Hospital, 10-2 and 2-7. Kew Gardens, 12-6. —Society of Arts, 10-4. — Zoological Gardens, from 9 a.m. (Is.). — Dulwich Gallery, 10-5, in winter 10-4. — Crystal Palace, 10 a.m. till dusk (Is.). Saturdays. Houses of Parliament, 10-4. — Tower, 10-4 (10-6 82 1. ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. by a tax on coaL Sir Christoplier Wren received during the build- ing of the cathedral a salary of '200Z. a year. The church, which resembles St. Peter's at Rome, though much smaller, is in the form of a Latin cross. It is 500 ft. in length and 118 ft. broad, and the transept is 250 ft. long. The inner dome is 225 ft., the outer, from the pavement to the top of the cross, 364 ft. in height. The diameter of the dome is about 112 ft. (27 ft. less than that of St. Peter's at Rome). In the original model the plan of the building was that of a Greek cross, having over the centre a large dome, supported by eight pillars ; but the court party, which was favourable to Roman Catholicism , insisted , notwithstanding Wren's opposition , on the erection of the cathedral with a long nave and an extensive choir, suitable for the Romish ritual. The church is so hemmed in by streets and houses that it is difficult to find a point of view whence the colossal proportions of the building can be properly realised. The best idea of the ma- jestic dome , allowed to be the finest known, is obtained from a distance, e.g. from Blackfriars Bridge. St. Paul's is the third largest church in Christendom, being surpassed only by St. Peter's at Rome and the Cathedral of Milan. ExTERiOE. The West Facade, towards Ludgate Hill, was brought better to view in 1873 by the removal of the railing which formerly surrounded the whole church. In front of it rises a Statue of Queen Anne, with England, France, Ireland, and America at her feet ; the present statue, by Belt, erected in 1886, is a replica of the original by Bird (1712). The fa(;ade, 180 ft. in breadth, is approached by a flight of 22 marble steps, and presents a double portico, the lower part of which consists of 12 coupled Corinthian pillars, 50 ft. high, and the upper of 8 Composite pillars, 40ft. high. On the apex of the pediment above the second row of pillars , which contains a relief of the Conversion of St. Paul by Bird, rises a statue of St. Paul 15 ft. in height, with St. Peter and St. James on his right and left. On each side of the facade is a campanile tower, 222 ft. in height, with statues of the four Evan- gelists at the angles. _^The one on the X. side contains a fine peal of 12 bells, hung in 1878, and the other contains the largest bell in England (^Great Paul'), hung in 1882 and weighing more than 16 tons. Each arm of the transept is terminated by a semicircular por- tico, adorned with five statues of the Apostles, by Bird. Over the S. portico is a phoenix, with the inscription 'Resurgam', by Cibber ; over the N. portico, the English arms. In reference to the former It IS related, that, when the position and dimensions of the great dome had been marked out, a labourer was ordered to bring a stone from the rubbish of the old cathedral to be placed as a guide to the masons. The stone whioh he happened to bring was a piece of a gravestone wjth nothing of the inscription remaining save the one word 'Resurgam in large letters. This incident was regarded as a 1. ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. 83 7' ' N A U lY^--^ L'S C H /^ :: ■■ ■ • ■ 'M' 0' r ^E I cr '■ U (- 1- 1 fPrebpndarv's yi;:^-.!l-,i^_ i., ,_^^y-1 —Bean's , '. ) 0\ \ 7. h^^ 84 1. ST. PAULS CATHEDRAL. favourable omen, and the word accordingly adopted as a motto. At the E. end the church terminates in a circular projection or apse. The balustrade, about 9 ft. high, on the top of the N. and S. -walls was erected contrary to the wishes of Wren, and is considered by modern architects a mistake. A drum in two sections, the lower embellished with Corinthian , the upper with Composite columns, bears the finely-proportioned double /)o?ne, the outer part of which consists of wood covered with lead. The Lantern above it is support- ed by a hollow cone of brickwork resting upon the inner dome. On the top of the lantern is a ball, surmounted by a cross, the ball and cross together weighing 8960 pounds. The ball is 6ft. in diameter, and can hold ten or twelve persons. The church is open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. The monuments may be inspected, free of charge, at any time, except during divine service, which takes place daily at 10 a.m. (choral) and 4 p.m. (choral) in the choir, and on Sundays at 8 a.m., 10. 30 a.m. (fine music), 3. 15 p.m., and 7 p.m. On week-days daily services are also held at 8 a.m. and 8p.m. in the chapel in the crypt, and Holy Com- munion celebrated at 8 a.m. and a short sermon preached at 1.15 p.m. in the chapel at the end of the N. aisle. The choir is closed except during divine servi'-e. but the verger from time to time ad- mits visitors who wait at the gate of the N. ambulatory. Tickets admitting to the Library, Clock, the Whispering Gallery, and the Stone Gallery (6d.) and to the *Crypt and Vaults (6fZ.) are obtained in the S. transept. At present no one is admitted to the Golden Gallery or to the Ball. The usual Entrances are on the W. and N. The Interior is imposing from the beauty and vastness of its proportions, but strikes one as bare and dark. Recently, however, mainly owing to the praiseworthy exertions of the late Dean Milman, a considerable sum of money has been subscribed for the embellishment of the interior with marble, gilding, mosaics, and stained glass ; but at present the scheme makes little or no progress. The dome is adorned with eight scenes from the life of St. Paul in grisaille by Thornhill, restored in 1854, but hardly visible from below (see p. 88). The three large mosaics in the spandrils of the dome, executed by Salviati from the designs of Watts, represent Isaiah, St. Matthew, and St. John. The other spaces have yet to be filled in. The Organ, which is one of the finest in Great Britain, is divided into two parts, one on each side of the choir, with connecting mechanism under the choir floor- ing. The builder, Mr. Willis, in constructing it, used some of the pipes of the old organ by Father Smith or Schmitz, which dated back to 1694. The choir contains some admirable wood-carving by Grin- ling Gibbons. Above the N. door is the tablet in memory of Sir Christopher Wren, with the inscription containing the celebrated words, ^Lector, si monumentum requiris, circumspice' . This tablet formerly stood at the entrance to the choir. 1. ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. 85 The numerous monuments of celebrated Englishmen (chiefly naval and military officers) , which make the church a kind of national Temple of Fame ( though second to Westminster Abbey, p. 193), are very rarely of artistic value, while many are remarkable for egregiously bad taste. The most interesting are the following, beginning to the left of the door of the N. Transept : — L. Sir Charles James ?iapier (d. 1853) ; statue by Adams , 'a prescient General, a beneficent Governor, a justMan'fcomp. p. 146). R. Admiral Lord Duncan (d. 1804), who defeated the Dutch in the naval battle of Camperdown ; statue by WestmacrAt. L. General Sir William Ponsonby (d. 1815) , 'who fell glor- iously in the battle of Waterloo", by Baily ; a nude dying hero, crowned by the Goddess of Victory, with a falling horse in the rear. L. Admiral Charles Napier (d. 1860), commander of the Eng- lish Baltic fleet in 1854, with portrait in relief. L. Henry Hallam (d. 1859), the historian; statue by Theed. L. *X'r. Samuel Johnson fd. 1785) , statue by Bacon. We have now arrived at the entrance to the Choie, the most conspicuous object in which is the new Reredos, an elaborate marble structure in the Italian Renaissance style, designed by Messrs. Bod- ley ^' Garner and erected in 1888. The sculptures, by Guellemin, represent the chief events in the life of Christ; at the top are sta- tues of the Risen Saviour, the Virgin and Child, St. Paul, and St. Peter. The verger also shows an elaborate altar-frontal worked in embroidered silk. Along the S. wall of the ambulatory are the following five monuments : — Reginald Heber, Bishop of Calcutta f d. 1826) ; a kneeling figure in episcopal robes, by Chantrey. The relief on the pedestal repre- sents the prelate confirming converted Indians. John Jackson, Bishop of London (d. 1884) ; by Woolner. Charles J. Blomfield, Bishop of London (d. 1857) ; sarcophagus with recumbent figure, by G. Richmond. Henry Hart Milman. Dean of St. Paul's (d. 1868) ; sarcophagus and recumbent figure, by Williamson. Dr. Donne, the poet, Dean of St. Paul's from 1621 till his death in 1631, a sculptured figure in a shroud, in a niche in the wall, by Nicholas Stone (the only uninjured monument from old St. Paul's). Leaving the passage round the choir, we pass, at the entrance, on the left, a handsome pulpit of coloured marbles, erected to the memory of Captain Fitzgerald. Then — In the S. Tkaxsept : — L. John Howard (d. 1790), the philanthropist; statue hy Bacon. On the scroll in the left hand are written the words 'Plan for the improvement of prisons and hospitals'; the right hand holds a key. He died at Cherson in the S. of Russia , while on a journey which he had undertaken 'to ascertain the cause of and find an 86 1. ST. PALL'S CATHEDRAL. efficacious remedy for the plague'. This monument was the first admitted to St. Paul's. L. Admiral Earl Howe (d. 1799), by Flaxman. Behind the statue of the hero is Britannia in armour ; to the left Fame and Victory ; on the right reposes the British lion. — Adjoining — L. Admiral Lord Collingwood (d. 1810), Nelson's companion in arms (p. 88), hy Westmacott. L. Joseph Mallord William Turner (d. 1851), the celebrated painter ; statue by Macdowell. Opposite the door of the S. transept, in the passage to the nave, against the great piers : — L. ^Admiral Lord Nelson (d. 1805), by Flaxman. The want of the right arm, which Nelson lost at Cadiz, is concealed by the cloak ; the left hand leans upon an anchor supported on a coiled up cable. The cornice bears the inscription 'Copenhagen — Nile — Trafalgar', the names of the Admiral's chief victories. The pedestal is embellished with figures in relief representing the German Ocean, the Baltic Sea, the Nile, and the Mediterranean. At the foot, to the right, couches the British lion ; while on the left is Britannia inciting youthful sailors to emulate the great hero. R. Marquis Cornwallis (d. 1805), Governor-General of Bengal, in the dress of a knight of the Garter ; at the base, to the left, Bri- tannia armed, to the right two Indian rivers, by Rossi. In the S. transept to the W. of the door : — L. Sir Astley Paston Cooper (d. 1842), the surgeon, by Baily. L. Lieutenant- General Sir John Moore (d. 1809), by the younger Bacon. The general, who fell at Corunna, is being interred by allegorical figures of Valour and Victory, while the Genius of Spain erects his standard over the tomb. L. Lieutenant- General Sir Ralph Abercromby (d. 1801), by Westmacott. The general, mortally wounded, falls from his rearing horse into the arms of a Highland soldier. The Sphinxes at the sides are emblematical of Egypt, where Sir Ralph lost his life. L. Sir William Jones (d. 1794), the orientalist, who, in Dean Milman's words, 'first opened the poetry and wisdom of our Indian Empire to wondering Europe' ; statue by Bacon. In the S. Aisle : — L. Thomas Fanshaw Middleton (d. 1822), the first English bishop in India, by Louth. The prelate is represented in his robes, in the act of blessing two young heathen converts. A little farther on is a recess, formerly used as the Ecclesiastical or Consistory Court of the Diocese, and now containing the *Mon- ument to the Duke of Wellington, by Stevens. The bronze figure of AVellington rests on a lofty sarcophagus, overshadowed by a rich marble canopy, with 12 Corinthian columns. Above is a colossal group of Valour overcoming Cowardice. This imposing monument loses much of its effect by the confined dimensions of the chapel in 1. ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. 87 which it stands, and wants the equestrian effigy with which the sculptor intended it to be crowned. The bas-reliefs on the walls of the chapel are by Calder Marshall (E. end) and WoocUngton (W. end). The wooden screen between the chapel and the nave was carved by Grinling Gibbons. At the end of the nave is the Crimean Monument, to the memory of the officers of the Coldstream Guards who fell at Inkerman in 1854, a relief by Marochetti, with the colours of the regiment hung above. We now reach the Grand Entrance (W.), which is a favourable point for a survey of the whole length of the nave. The new rere- dos also looks well from this point. Passing the entrance, we come to the Morning Chapel, which is handsomely decorated with marble. The mosaic, representing the Risen Saviour, was executed by Sal- viati. and commemorates Archdeacon Hale. The stained-glass win- dow is a memorial of Dean Mansel (1868-71). Then to the left, in the N. Aisle : — L. The Crimean Cavalry Monument, in memory of the officers and men of the British cavalry who fell in the Crimean war (1854-56). L. Major-General Sir Herbert Stewart, who died in 1885 of wounds received at the battle of Abu-kru, Egypt; bronze medallion and reliefs by Boehm. L. Major-General Charles George Gordon, killed at Khartoum in 1885: sarcophagus-tomb, with bronze effigy by Boehm. L. Lord William Melbourne (d. 1848) and Lord Frederick Mel- bourne (d. 1853), by Marochetti. Two angels guard the closed en- trance to the tomb. — On each side is a brass plate , on which are inscribed the names of the officers and crew (484 in number) of the ill-starred line-of-battle sM^ Captain, which foundered with all hands off Cape Finisterre on 7th Sept., 1870. In the N. Transept (W. side) : — L. Sir Joshua Reynolds (d. 1792), the celebrated painter, statue by Flaxman. Upon the broken column to his left is a medallion- portrait of Michael Angelo. L. Admiral Lord Rodney (d. n 22), hy Rossi. At his feet, to the left, is History listening to the Goddess of Fame (on the right), who recounts the Admirals exploits. L. Lieutenant- General Sir Thomas Pieton (killed at Waterloo in 1815), by Gahagan. In front of his bust is a Goddess of Victory presenting a crown of laurels to a warrior, upon whose shoulder leans the Genius of Immortality. R. Admiral Earl St. Vincent (d. 1823), the victor at Cape St. Vincent ; statue by Baily. L. General William Francis Patrick Napier (d. 1860), the his- torian of the Peninsular War, by Adams. In the S. aisle, near the S. transept (PI. a), is the entrance to the Upper Parts of the church (admission, see p. 84). Ascending about 88 1. ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. 110 steps, -we reach a gallery (above the S. aisle), a room at the end of which contains the Library (9000 volumes ; portrait of the founder, Bishop Compton). The flooring consists of artistically executed mosaic in wood. The large, self-supporting, winding staircase, called the Geometrical Staircase, is interesting only on account of its age. The Great Bell (cast in 1716; 88 steps) and the large Clock (constructed in 1708: 13 steps more), in the N.W. tower, are scarcely interesting enough to repay the fatigue of ascending to them. The minute hand of the clock is nearly 10 ft. long. The Whispering Gallery, in the interior of the cupola, reached by a flight of steps from the library ('260 steps from the floor of the church), is remarkable for a curious echo, which resembles that of the Salle d'Echo in the Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers at Paris. A slight whisper uttered by the wall on one side of the gallery is distinctly audible to an ear near the wall on the other side, a dis- tance of 108 ft. in a direct line, or 160 ft. round the semicircle. This is the best point of view for Thornhill's ceiling-paintings, and from it we also obtain a fine survey of the interior of the church. From this point a flight of 118 steps leads to the *Stone Gal- lery, an outer gallery, enclosed by a stone parapet, which runs round the foot of the outer dome. This gallery commands an ad- mirable view of the city. The survey is still more extensive from the outer Golden Gallery above the dome and at the foot of the lan- tern, to which a winding staircase ascends in the inside of the roof. The Ball (p. 84) on the lantern is 45 ft. higher (616 steps from the tesselated pavement of the church). Visitors, however, are not at present admitted to either the Golden Gallery or the Ball. At the S. end of the transept is the door leading down into the *Ceypt (PL b). Here we are first conducted to the left into a chamber lighted by four candelabra of polished granite, in the centre of whi^^h stands the sarcophagus of Wellington (d. 1852), consisting of a huge block of porphyry, resting on a granite base. Adjacent is the sarcophagus of Sir Thomas Picton (p. 87). who fell at Waterloo in 1815. Farther on. exactly under the centre of the dome, is the black marble sarcophagus of Nelson (d. 1805). con- taining an inner coffin made of part of the mainmast of the French flag-ship L'Orient . which was blown up at Aboukir. This sarco- phagus, said to be the work of Torregiano (p. 209), was originally ordered by Card. Wolsey for himself (comp. p. 338). The smaller sarcophagus on the S. is that of Nelsons comrade, Admiral Col- lingwood (d. 1810). while on the N. is that of the Earl of Northesk. We next notice two tabular monuments in memory of two officers who fell at Trafalgar in 1805 , placed here recently to make room for the reconstruction of the organ at the entrance to the choir. In a chamber behind Nelson's sarcophagus is the hearse used at the Duke of Wellington's funeral, with its trappings. It was cast from guns captured in the victories of the 'Iron Duke'. 1. St. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. 89 In a straight direction from the staircase we reach the vaults, -n-hich contain busts and fragments of monuments from the earlier building (i.e. prior to 1666). The flooring consists of memorial slabs of celebrated artists and others. Among these are John Rennie, builder of Waterloo Bridge ; Robert Mylne, who built several other London bridges ; Benjamin West ; Sir Joshua Reynolds ; Sir Thomas Lawrence; Sir Edwin Landseer ; John Opie ; J. M. W. Turner (buried, at his own dying request, near Reynolds); Thos. Newton, Dean of the Cathedral; and Dean Milman. Sir Christopher Wren, the architect of St. Paul's, and his wife, Samuel Johnson, William Babington. Sir Astley Cooper, George Cruikshank, Sir Bartle Frere, and Sir William Jones also repose here. A space at the E. end of the crypt, used as a morning chapel, possesses a fine mosaic pavement. In May an annual festival is held in St. Paul's for the benefit of the sons of deceased clergymen. Admission by tickets, procured at the Corporation House, 2 Bloomsbury Place, Bloomsbury Square, "W.C. The Charity School Festivals formerly held in St. Paul's have been discontinued on account of the interruption to the services caused by the erection of the necessary scaffolding. The clerical establishment of the cathedral consists of the Dean, four Canons. 30 Prebendaries. 12 Minor Canons, and 6 Vicars Choral. Sydney Smith and. R. H. Barham, author of the "Ingoldsby Legends', were canons of St. Paul's. — For a full account of this noble church, see Dean Milman's 'Annals of St. Paul's'. The street round the cathedral, called St. Paul's Churchyard, has been much improved by the removal of the railings before the western front of the Cathedral , which has widened the street and facilitated the passage of pedestrians, as well as given a better view of the building. On the three other sides the church is still sur- rounded by high and heavy railings, but the stone walls supporting them have recently been lowered with advantage to a height of eighteen inches. In the 16th cent. St. Paul's Churchyard was open to Paternoster Row , with a few intervening buildings , all belonging to the precincts. These disappeared in the Great Fire. [ Celebrated coffee-houses in the Churchyard, where authors and booksellers used to meet, were St. Paul's Coffee-House, near the archway leading to Doctors' Commons ; Child's Coffee-House . a great resort of the clergy and literati; and the Queen's Arms Ta- vern, often visited by Dr. Johnson. They were also frequented by the lawyers of Doctors' Commons. Among the famous eighteenth century publishers of St. Paul's Churchyard may be mentioned Johnson, Hunter, Newbery , and Rivington. For Newbery, the site of whose shop (rebuilt in 1885), at the corner next Ludgate Hill, is now occupied by Griffith and Farran, Goldsmith is said to have written 'Goody Two Shoes', amongst other books. 90 2. General Post Office. Christ's Hospital. Newgate. Holborn. Paternoster Row. Peel's Statue. Central Criminal Court. St. Se- pulchre's. Holborn Viaduct. Leaving St. Paul's Churchyard^ on the N. side of the church, we enter Paternoster Row (so called from the prayer-books formerly sold in it) . the chief seat of the publishers and book- sellers. To the W., in Stationers' Hall Court, off Ludgate Hill, is situated Stationers' Hall, the guild-house of the booksellers and stationers. This company is one of the few London guilds the majority of whose members actually practise their nominal craft. The society lost its mon- opoly of publishing almanacks in 1771, but still carries on this business extensively. The company distinguished itself in 1631 by printing a Bible with the word 'not' omitted in the seventh commandment Every work published in Great Britain must be registered at Stationers" Hall to secure the copyright. The hall contains portraits of Richardson, the nnvelist (Master of the Company in 1754), and his wife. Prior, Steele, Bunyan, and others ; also West's painting of King Alfred sharing his loaf with the pil- grim St. Cuthbert. At the E. end of Paternoster Row, at the entrance to Cheapside (p. 101), rises the Statue of Sir Robert Peel (d. 1850), by Behnes. Immediately to the N., on the E. side of St. Martin s le Grand, is the General Post Office East [PI. R, 39, and ///,• comp. p. 53), built in the Ionic style in 1825-29, from designs by Smirke. In this building, 390 ft. in length, Letters and Xewspapers are dealt with and all the ordinary business of a postal-telegraph office carried on. Parcels are received here, but are at once sent on to the Parcel Post Office at Mount Pleasant, Farringdon Road (formerly Coldbath Fields Prison). To the S. of the portico is the 'Poste Restante' Office. This is the headquarters of the London Postal District, and the vast City correspondence is all dealt with here. The Returned Letter Office is in Moorgate Street Buildings, off Moorgate Street, where boards are exhibited "with lists of persons whose addresses have not been discovered. Postal Traffic. The number of letters transmitted by post in the United Kingdom in 1874 was 962.000.000. in 1876 it was 1.019,000,000, and in 1885-86 no less than 1,403,547,9(30, or 39 letters per head of popu- lation. Besides letters, 259,000,000 book-packets and newspapers, and 79,000,000 post-cards, were delivered in 1874; 298,000.000 newspapers and book-packets . and 93,000,000 post-cards , in 1876 ; and 489,928.500 news- papers and book-packets, and 171,290,000 post-cards, in 18^5-86. ' About 23 per cent of the letters and other postal packets received from abroad come from the United States, while 20 per cent of those dispatched from the United Kingdom are addressed to that country. In the same period the Parcel Post forwarded 26,417.422 parcels. The'sums of money sent by post- office orders, notwithstanding the universal practice of transmitting money by cheque, and the limitation of the orders to ten pounds, are very con- siderable. Thus in 1874 there were issued 15.100.562 inland post-office orders representing a sum of 26,296.441?. The introduction of postal orders diverted part of this stream of money, and in 1885-6 the number of post oftice orders had sunk to 10,358,000. In that year 25,790,369 /josi-a? orders were also issued, amounting in value to 10,788,946Z. The Post Office Savings Banks, establish- 2. CHRIST'S HOSPITAL. 91 ed in 1861, hold at present about 51.000.000L on deposit. The profits of the English Post Office Department in 1885-86 amounted to 2,708,882/. Opposite to the General Post Office East stands the General Post Office West, containing the Administrative Offices and the Telegraph Department. This imposing building was erected in 1870- 73 at a cost of 485,000^. The large Telegraph instrument Galleries, extending the whole length of the building and measuring 300 by 90 ft., should be visited (admission by request from a banker or other well-known citizen). They contain 500 instruments with their attendants. On the sunk-floor are four steam-engines of 50 horse- power each, by means of which messages are forwarded through pneumatic tubes to the other offices in the City and Strand district. The number of telegrams conveyed in the year ending 31st March, 1886, was 39,235,900. The vast and ever-growing business of the General Post Office has long found itself straitened for room even in these huge buildings, and extensive additions have been begun to the y. To secure a site for these the Queen's Hotel, the Bull & Mouth Hotel, the French Protestant Church, and numerous other buildings have been pulled down. To the N. of the Post Office lies Aldersgate Street , a little to the E. of which is Monkwell Street (reached by Falcon Street and Silver Street), containing the Barber-Surgeons'' Court Room. Among the curiosities preserved here are a valuable portrait of Henry YIII. by Holbein, and one of Inigo Jones by Yandyck. — Milton once lived in Aldersgate Street, and afterwards in Jewin Street, a side-street on the right. To the W. of the General Post Office is Newgate Street, a great omnibus thoroughfare, leading to Holborn and Oxford Street. This neighbourhood has long been the quarter of the butchers. In Panyer Alley, the first cross-lane to the left, once inhabited by basket-makers, is an old relief of a boy sitting upon a 'panier. with the inscription : 'When ye have sought the city round, Yet still this is the highest ground. August the 27th, 1688\ Farther on, opposite the site of old Newgate Market, is a passage on the right leading to — Christ's Hospital (PL R, 39; III), a school for 1200 boys and 100 girls, founded by Edward YL, with a yearly income from land and funded property of 60,000^., not all of which, however, is de- voted to educational purposes. It occupies the site of an ancient monastery of the Grey Friars, founded in the 13th cent., and once the burial-place of many illustrious persons. The general govern- ment of the school is in the hands of a large 'Court of Governors', consisting of noblemen and other gentlemen of position ; but the internal and real management is conducted by the President, Trea- surer, and 'Committee of Almoners', fifty in number. The original costume of the boys is still retained, consisting of long blue gowns, yellow stockings, and knee-breeches. No head-covering is worn 92 2. NEWGATE. even in -winter. The pupils (Blue Coat Boys), who are admitted between the ages of eight and ten, must be the children of parents whose income is insufficient for their proper education and main- tenance. They are first sent to the preparatory school at Hertford, whence they are transferred according to their progress to the city establishment. Their education, which is partly of a commercial nature, is completed at the age of sixteen. A few of the more talented pupils are, however, prepared for a university career, and form the two highest classes of the school , known as the Grecians and Deputy- Grecians. There are also 40 King's Boys, forming the mathematical school founded by Charles II. in 1672. The school possessed many ancient privileges, some of which it still retains. On New Year's Day the King's Boys used to appear at Court; and on Easter Tuesday the entire school is presented to the Lord Mayor, at the Mansion House, when each boy receives the gift of a coin fresh from the Mint. A line in the swimming-bath marks the junction of three parishes. In the Halt, which was erected by Shaw in 18'25-29, the head-pupils annually deliver a number of public orations. The 'suppings in public' on each Thursday in Lent, at 7 p.m., are worth attending (tickets from governors). Among the pictures on the walls are the Founding of the Hospital by Edward YL, ascribed to Holbein; Presentation of the King's Boys at the Court of James II., a very large work by Verrio ; Portraits of the Queen and Prince Albert, by Grant. Among the celebrated men who were educated here we may mention William Camden, Stillingfleet, Middleton, Dyer, Samuel Richardson, S. T. Coleridge, Charles Lamb, Leigh Hunt, and Sir Henry Sumner Maine (d. 1888). Opposite Christ's Hospital is Warwick Lane , leading out of Newgate Street. On the wall of the first house from Newgate Street on the right is a curious relief of 1668, representing War- wick, the 'King-maker'. At the W. end of Newgate St., at the corner of Old Bailey, stands Newgate Prison (PI. R. 35 : //), once the principal prison of Lon- don, now used as a temporary house of detention for prisoners awaiting trial at the Old Bailey Court. The present building, which was begun in 1770 by George Dance, was partly destroyed in 1780. before its completion, by the Gordon rioters, but was restored in 1782. The principal fagade, looking towards the Old Bailey, is 300 ft. in length. The interior was rebuilt in 1858 on the separate cell system. Permission to inspect the prison, which has accommodation for 192 prisoners, is granted by the Secretary of State for the Home Department, the Lord Mayor, and the Sheriffs. The public place of execution, which was formerly at Tyburn near Hyde Park, was afterwards for a long period in front of Newgate, but criminals are not now hanged in public. Among the famous or notorious prisoners once confined in old Newgate were George Wither, Daniel Defoe , Jack Sheppard, Titus Oates, 2. HOLBORN VIADUCT. 93 and William Penn. Old London Wall had a gate^vay at the bottom of Newgate Street, by Newgate Prison. Adjoining Newgate is the Central Criminal Court, consisting of two divisions ; viz. the Old Court for the trial of grave offences, and the New Court for petty offences. The trials are public, but as the courts are often crowded, a fee of l-5s., according to the interest of the case , must generally be given to the door-keeper to secure a good seat. At great trials, however, tickets of admission are usually issued by the aldermen and sheriffs. No. 68 Old Bailey, near Ludgate Hill, was the house of the infamous thief-catcher, Jonathan Wild , himself hanged in 17'25. A little to the W. of Newgate begins the *Holborn Viaduct (PI. R, 35. 36: //), a triumph of the art of modern street-building, designed by Haywood, and completed in 1869, Its name is a reminiscence of the ^Hole-Bourne , the name given to the upper course of the Fleet (p. 134), from its running through a deep hollow. This structure, 465 yds. long and 27 yds. broad, extending from Newgate to Hatton Garden, was constructed in order to over- come the serious obstruction to the traffic between Oxford Street and the City caused by the steep descent of Holborn Hill. Ex- ternally the viaduct, which is constructed almost entirely of iron, is not visible, as rows of new buildings extend along either side. Beneath the roadway are vaults for commercial purposes , and subways for gas and water pipes , telegraph wires . and sewage, while at the sides are the cellars of the houses. At the E. extrem- ity, to the right, stands 6^f. Sepulchre' s Churchy with its square tower, where a knell is tolled on the occasion of an execution at Newgate. At one time a nosegay was presented at this church to every crim- inal on his way to execution at Tyburn. On the S. side of the choir lie the remains of the gallant Captain John Smith (d. 1631), 'Sometime Governour of Virginia and Admirall of New England . The first line of the now nearly illegible epitaph runs thus : — •Here lies one conquered that hath conquered kings 1' Roger Ascham, author of 'The Scholemaster' and teacher of Lady Jane Grey, is also buried here. Obliquely opposite, to the left, is the Holborn Viaduct Station of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway (p. 33), and near it is the Imperial Hotel (p. 10). The iron *Bridge over Farringdon Street (which traverses Holborn Valley, p. 134) is 39 yds. long and is supported by 12 columns of granite, each 4 ft. in diameter. On the parapet are bronze statues of Art, Science, Commerce, and Agriculture; on the corner-towers, statues of famous Lord Mayors. Flights of steps descend in the towers to Farringdon Street. To the left, beyond the bridge, are the City Temple (Congrega- tional church; Dr. Joseph Parker; see p. 51) and St. Andrew's Church, where Lord Beaconsfleld was christened, the latter erected in 1686 by Wren. Nearly opposite the church is the entrance to Ely 94 3. ST. BARTHOLOMEW'S HOSPITAL. Place, formerly the site of the celebrated palace of the Mshops of Ely, where John of Gaunt, brother of the Black Prince and father of Henry IV., died in 1399. The chapel of the palace, known as ^ELy Chapel (St. Etheldreda's : see p. 52), escaped the fire of 1666 and has been recently restored. It is a good specimen of 14th cent, architecture and retains its original oaken roof. The noble E. and W. windows are splendid examples of tracery, and the former is filled with fine stained glass. The crypt is also worth visiting, and the quaint cloister, planted with fig-trees, forms a strangely quiet nook amid the roar of Holborn. A little farther on is Holborn Circus, embellished with an Equestrian Statue of Prince Albert, by Bacon, with allegorical figures and reliefs on the granite pedestal. The new and wide Charterhouse Street leads hence in a N.E. direction to Smithfield (p. 95) and the Farringdon Street Station of the Metro- politan Railway (p. 36). On the W. side of the Circus begins Hol- born, leading to Oxford Street and Bayswater; see p. 225. On the ]S'. side of Holborn are the Black Bull and the Old Bell, two survivals of the old-fashioned inns, with galleried court-yards, and Furnival's Inn. formerly an inn of chancery (comp. p. 139), entirely rebuilt in 1818. Charles Dickens was living at Furnivars Inn, when he began the 'Pickwick Papers'. On the opposite side of the street are Barnard's Inn and * Staple Inn, two quaint and picturesque old inns of chancery (comp. p. 139), celebrated by Dickens. 3. St. Bartholomew's Hospital. Smithfield. St. Giles, Cripplegate. Charterhouse. St. Bartholomew's Hospital (^Pl. R, 40; II), in Smithfield, to the N. of Christ's Hospital , is the oldest and one of the wealthiest benevolent institutions in London. In 1123 Rahere, a favourite ot Henry I. , founded here a priory and hospital of St. Bartholomew, which were enlarged by Richard Whittington , Lord Mayor of Lon- don. The hospital was refounded by Henry YIII. on the suppression of the monasteries in 1547. The present large quadrangular edifice was erected by Gihhs in 1730-33, and has two entrances. Above the W. gate, towards Smithfield, built in 1702, is a statue of Henry VIII., with a sick man and a cripple at the sides. An in- scription on the external wall commemorates the burning of three Protestant martyrs in the reign of Queen Mary (p. 95). Within the gate is the church of St. Bartholomew the Less, originally built by Rahere, but re-erected in 1823. The hospital enjoys a yearly revenue of 40,000^., and contains 676 beds, in which 6000 pa- tients are annually attended. Relief is also given to about 140,000 out-patients. Cases of accident are taken in at any hour of the day or night, and receive immediate and gratuitous attention. The Medical School connected with the hospital is famous. It has numbered among its teachers Harvey, the discoverer of the cir- 3. SMITHFIELD. 95 culation of the blood, Abernethy, and other renowned physicians. The lectures are delivered in the Anatomical Theatre, built in 1842. There are also Museums of Anatomy and Botany, a well-furnished Library, and a Chemical Laboratory . The medical school has recently been rebuilt and enlarged. The great hall contains a few good portraits , among which we notice an old portrait of Henry Till, (not by Holbein) ; Dr. Rad- cliffe, physician to Queen Anne, by Kneller ; Perceval Pott, for 42 years surgeon to the Institution, by Sir Joshua Reynolds ,• Aber- nethy, the physician, by Sir Thomas Lawrence. The paintings on the grand staircase , the Good Samaritan, the Pool of Bethesda, Rahere as founder of the Hospital, and a Sick man borne by monks, are the work of Hogarth, who executed them gratuitously, and was in return made a Governor for life. The neighbouring *Churcli of St. Bartholomew the Great, chiefly in the Anglo-Norman style, restored in 1865-69 and again in 1886. merits attention (keys at 1 Church Passage, Cloth Fair ). With the exception of the chapel in the Tower (p. 120), which is 20 years earlier, this is the oldest church in the City of London. Like the Hospital [p. 94) it was founded by Rahere in 1123. sixty years before the foundation of the Temple Church (p. 136). The existing cliurcli, consisting merely of the chuir, the crossing, and one bay of the nave of the original Priory Church, is mainly pure Xor- man work as left by Rahere. Other portions of the church were alienated or destroyed by Henry VIII. From Smithfield we pass through an arched gateway, with fine dog-to thed moulding, which formed the entrance either to the nave or to an inner court, now the graveyard. Here may be seen some remains of the E.E. piers of the nave, which was somewhat later than the choir. In the 14th cent, the apsidal end of the choir was replaced by a square ending, with one large window, the jambs of which still re'iiain. The clerestory was rebuilt at the same time t.nd a tine Lady Chapel thrown out to the E. of the high-altar. This chapel was long used as a fringe manufactory, being mutilated aim' st beyond recog- nition, but was repurchased in 13-% for"6500/. Prior Bolton m'ade farther alterations in the I6th cent, and his rebus (a "bolf through a 'tun') may be seen at the base of the beautiful oriel on the S. side of the choir and on the doorway at the E. end of the S. ambulatory. The present apse was built in the recent restoration, and has restored the choir to something of its original beauty. Funds, however, are still needed to remove the blacksmiths forge which occupies the X. transept and to complete the restoration of other parts of the church (photographs of the church sold by the verger, price- Qd.-2s. : description of the church Is.). The Tombs are worthy of attention. That of the founder, on the IS'. side of the sanctunry. with its rich canopy, is much later than the effigy of Rahere resting upon it. In the S. ambul .tory is the handsome tomb, in alabaster, of Sir Walter Mildmay (d. 1589). Chancellor of the Exchequer to Queen Elizabeth and founder of Emmanuel College, Cambridge. Many of the epitaphs are curious. At the W. end of the church is a tasteful oaken screen, erected in 1839. Among the notable men who have lived in Bartholomew Close are Milton, Franklin. Hogarth (v.ho was baptized in the existing font). Dr. Caius. and WashiuiTtun Irvine. The adjoining market-place of Smithfield fPl. R, 36,40; 11), a name said to have been originally Smooth-field , was formerly a tournament ground, and lay outside the walls of London. Here 96 3. CENTRAL LONDON MEAT MARKET. Bartholomew Fair, with its revels, was held for many ages. Sham- flghts, tilts, tricks of acrobats, and even miracle-plays were exhibited. Wat Tyler was slain here in 1381 by the then Lord Mayor, Sir William Walworth ; and here in the reign of 'Bloody Mary' many of the persecuted Protestants, including Rogers, Bradford, and Philpot, suffered death at the stake, while un- der Elizabeth several Nonconformists met with a similar fate. Smithfield was the place of public execution before Tyburn , and in 1305 witnessed the beheading of the Scottish patriot, William Wallace. Subsequently, during a long period, Smithfield was the only cattle-market of London. The space having at length become quite inadequate, the cattle-market was removed to Copen- hagen Fields (comp. p. 27) in 1855 , after much opposition from the Corporation, and in 1862-68 the * Central London Meat Market was erected here. The building , designed by Horace Jones^ is in a pleasing Renaissance style , with four towers at the corners. It is 630ft. long, 245 ft. broad, and 30 ft. high, and covers an area of 3^/2 acres. The roof is of glass and iron. A broad carriage-road intersects the market from N. to S. Below the building is an extensive Railway Depot, belonging to the Great Western Co., and connected with several underground railways, from which the meat is conveyed to the market by a lilt. In the centre of Smithfield is a small garden, with a handsome fountain. The road winding round the garden leads down to the subterranean area below the market, which is a sufficiently curious specimen of London underground life to repay the descent. To the W. of the Meat Market is the new Market for Pork, Ponltry, and Provisions, which was opened for business in 1S76. It is by the same architect and in the same style as the Meat Market, and measures 260 by 245 ft. Still farther to the W. (on the E. side of Farringdon Street) stands another market, erected in 18^ as a fish-market at a cost of 435,000^, but now being converted into a Fruit and Vegetable Market. A new Fish Market has been erected in Snow Hill, immediately to the 8. Smithfield Market affords a sight not easily paralleled, and deserves a visit. Charterhouse Street, a broad and handsome thoroughfare, leads to the W. from Smithfield to Holborn (p. 94). A little to the E. of Smithfield is the church of St. Giles (PI. R. 40), Cripplegate, built in 1545 (approached by an archway in Red Cross Street). It contains the tombs of John Milton (d 1674), who wrote 'Paradise Lost' in a house in this parish, n.w pulled down: Foxe (d. 1587), the martyrologist; Frobisher (d. 1594), the voyager; and Speed (d. 1629), the topographer. Oliver Cromwell was married in this church (Aug. 22nd, 1620), and the parish register contains an entrv of the burial of Daniel Defoe (d. 1731). Milton is commemorated by a good bust, bv Bacon, and a stained-glass window has been erected to his memory by Jlr. G. W. Childs of Philadelphia. Comp. J. J. Baddeleu's 'Account of the Church and Parish of St. Giles' (18S8). In the churchyard is an old bastion of London Wall, and close by, in London Wall, is a small part of the churchvard of St. Alphage, con- taining another large and interesting fragment of the old wall (p. 63). To the E. of St. Giles, running N. from Fore Street to Chiswell Street, is Milton Street, better known as the 'Grub Street' of Pope and his contemporaries. 3. ST. JOHN'S GATE. 97 To the N. E. of Smithfleld we traverse Charterhouse Square to the Charterhouse (^corrupted from Chartreuse), formerly a Carthusian monastery, or priory of the Salutation (whence the name of the Salutation Tavern in Newgate Street!, founded in 1371 on the site of a burying-field for persons dying of the plague. After its dissolution by Henry YIII. in 1537, the monastery passed through various hands, including those of Lord North and Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, who made it the town-house of the Howards. Qtieen Elizabeth made a stay of five days at the Charterhouse await- ing her coronation, and her successor James I. kept court here for several days on entering London. The property was purchased in 1611 by Thomas Sutton, a wealthy merchant, for his 'Hospital', i.e. a school foi 40 'poor boys* and a home for 80 'poor men'. The school was transferred in 1872 to Godalniing in Surrey, where large and handsome buildings were erected for it. The part of the property thus vacated was sold to the Merchant Taylors' Company for their ancient school, now containing 500 boys. The Charterhouse School, which is attended by 440 boys besides 60 on the foundation, boasts among its former scholars the names of Barrow, Lovelace, Steele, Addison, Blackstone, Wesley, Grote, Thirlwall, Leech, Havelock, and Thackeray. Visitors are shown over the buildings by the porter. The ancient buildings date chiefly from the early part of the 16th cent., but have been modified and added to by Lord S'orth, the Duke of Norfolk, and others. The Great Hall is considered one { Norfolk left them three centuries ago. Part of the Ori'^'inal Chapel (1371) remains, but it was altered by the monks about 1500 and greatly enlarged by the Trustees of Thomas Sutton in 1612, when it received its present Jacobean appearance. It is approached by a cloister with memorials of Thackeray, Leech, Havelock, John Hul- lah, etc., and contains a fine alabaster monument of Sutton (1611) and the monuments of the first Lord Ellenborough by Chantrey and *.f Dr. Raine by Flaxman. The two quadrangles in which the Pensioners and some of the officials reside were built about 182-5-30. The Master's Lvdge contains several portraits: Sutton, the founder of the institution; Charles II.-, George Villiers, second Duke of Buckingham (one oi Kneller^s best portraits): Duke of Monmouth; Lord Chancellor Shaftesbury; Lord Chancellor Somers ; William, Earl of Craven ; Arch- bishop Sheldon; Talbot, Duke of Shrewsbury; and the fine portrait of Dr. Burnet, also by Kneller. A little to the W. of the Charterhouse is St. John's Lane, in which is situated St. John's Gate (PI. R, 36 ), an interesting relic of an old priory of the knights of St. John, with lateral turrets, erected in the late-Gothic style in 1504. The knights of St. John were suppressed by Henry VIII., restored by Mary, and finally dispersed by Elizabeth. The rooms above the gate were once oc- cupied by Cave, the founder of the 'Gentleman's Magazine' (1731), to which Dr. Johnson contributed and which has a representation of St. John's Gate on the cover; they now contain some interesting historical relics, including the chair of the great lexicographer. The Norman crypt of St. John's Church is part of the old priory Baedeker, London. Tth Edit. 7 98 4. GUILDHALL. church. In the little graveyard are buried the grandfather and other relatives of Wilkes Booth, the murderer of President Lincoln. The neighbouring district of Clerkenwell , now largely inhabited by ■watchmakers, goldsmiths, and opticians, derives its name from the 'Clerks' Well' once situated here, to which the parish clerks of London annually resorted for the celebration of miracle plays, etc. To the E. of the Charterhouse, adjoining Bunhill Row, is the Bunhill Fields Cemetery (PI. R. 40. 44], once the chief burial- place for Nonconformists, but now disused. It contains the tombs of John Bunyan (d. 1688), Daniel Defoe (d. 1731"), Dr. Isaac Watts [d. 1748). Susannah Wesley (d. 1742; the mother of John and Charles Wesley), William Blake (d. 1827). Henry, Richard, and William Cromwell, etc. Immediately to the 8. of the ceme- tery are the headquarters and drill-ground of the Honourable Artillery Company, the oldest military body in the kingdom. The H. A. C, as it is generally called, received its charter of incor- poration, under the title of the Guild or Fraternity of St. George, from Henry VIII. in 1537, and its rights and privileges have been conC-rmed by upwards of 20 r yai warrants. The officers of the Trained Bands and the City of Lt^ndon Militia were formerly always selected from members of this Company. Since 1660 the Captain-General an'l Cobnel has always been either the King or the Prince of Wales. The Company, which has occupied its present ground since 1642, consists of light cavalry, a battery of field artillery, and a battali n of infantry. It is the only volunteer corps which includes horse-artillery. See the History of the Company, by Lt. Col. Naikes. In Castle Street (PI. R, 44), to the E. of Bunhill Fields, is the Allan Wesleyan Library (p. 17), containing one of the finest collections of Biblical and theological works in England. In Blom- fleld Street, London Wall (PI. R, 43, 44), is the Museum of the Lon- don Missionary Society (open 10 to 3 or 4 on Tues, Thurs., & Sat.). A little to the E. of the Hon. Artillery Company's ground, in Curtain Street, is ihe Church of St. James which probably stands on or near the site of the old Curtain Theatre, where, according t > tradition, •Hamlet" was first performed. It is not \inlikely that Shakespeare acted here in his own plays. To commemorate this association a stained-glass window was erected in 1880 at the W. end of the church by Mr. Stanley Cooper. Immediately to the S.E. of the Charterhouse, in Goswell Road, at the corner of Long Lane, is the Alder sgate Street Station (PI. R, 40) of the Metropolitan Railway (p. 36). Aldersgate Street leads hence to St. Martin's le Grand and St. Paul's (p. 81). 4. Gaildhall. Gheapside. Mansion House. Gresham College. Goldsmiths' Hall. St. Mary le Bow. Mercers' Hall. Armourers' Hall. St. Stephens, Walbrook. To the N. of Cheapside, at the end of King Street (p. 101), rises the Guildhall (PL R, 39; ///), or Council-hall of the city. The build- ing was originally erected in 1411-31 for the sittings of the ma- gistrates and municipal corporation, which had formerly been held at Aldermanbury. It was seriously injured by the great tire of 1666, 4. GUILDHALL. 99 but immediately restored. The unpleasiiig front towards King .Street was erected in 1789 from designs by the younger Dance, and va- rious improvements were effected in 1865-68, including the con- struction of a new roof. Above the porch are the arms of the city, with the motto, Domine dirige nos. The Great Hall (open to visi- tors), 153 ft. long, 48 ft. broad, and 55 ft. high, is now used for various municipal meetings, the election of the Lord Mayor and members of parliament, and public meetings of the citizens of Lon- don to consider questions of great social or political interest. The open timber roof is very handsome. The stained -glass window at the E. end was presented by the Lancashire operatives in ac- knowledgment of the City of Londons generosity during the Cotton Famine ; that at the W. end is a memorial of the late Prince Con- sort. The two colossal and fanciful wooden figures on the W. side, carved by Saunders in 1708, are called Goy and Magog, and were formerly carried in the Lord Mayor's procession. By the N. wall are monuments to Lord Chatham . by Bacon ; Wellingtons by Bell ; and Nelson, by Smith. On the S. wall are monuments to William Pitt by Bubb, and Lord Mayor Beckford by Moore (bearing on the pedestal the mayor's famous address to George III., which some writers affirm was never actually delivered). — Every 9th of Novem- ber the Lord Mayor, on the occasion of his accession to office , gives a great public dinner here to the members of the Cabinet, the chief civic dignitaries, and others, which is generally attended by nearly 1000 guests. The speeches made by the Queens Ministers on this and other civic occasions are scanned attentively, as often possessing no little political significance. The expense of this banquet is shared jointly by the Lord Mayor and the Sheriffs. To the N. of the Great Hall is the new Common Council Cham- ber, erected from the plans of Sir Horace Jones in 1885 It con- tains a statue of George III. by Chantrey, and in the passage lead- ing to it are busts of Derby, Palmcrston, and Canning. The Aldermen i^ Room contains a ceiling painted by Thornhill. and stained -glass windows exhibiting the arms of various Lord Mayors. The inter- esting old Crypt of the Guildhall, borne by clustered columns of Purbeck marble, is now, with the porch, almost the sole relic of the original edifice of 1411-31. The Free Library of the Corporation of the City of Lon- don (open daily, 10-9, to all-comers ; no introduction necessary) contains in its handsome hall, built in the Tudor style in 1871-72, above 60,000 volumes, including several good specimens of early printing, and a large and valuable collection of works on or con- nected with London, its history, antiquities, and famous citi- zens. The special collections include the library of the old Dutch church in Austin Friars (p. 104; with valuable MSS. and original letters of Reformers), a carefully selected Hebrew library (new cata- logue), etc. It also possesses a very fine collection of maps and plans 7* 100 4. GOLDSMITHS' HALL. of London, and a aeries of English medals. In 1888 the library was visited by 396,720 persons. On the right is the Reading Room. In the room at the top of the staircase to the museum is an interesting collection of ancient chronometers , clocks . watches , and watch- movements, made by members of the Clockmakers' Company, whose library is also deposited at the Guildhall. The *Museum (open from 10 to 4 or 5), on the sunk floor, contains a collection of Pv,(iman antiquities found in London: a group of the Dese Matres, found at Crutched Friars : hexagonal funeral column, from Ludgate Hill; Roman tesselated pavement, from Bucklersbury (1869): sarcophagus of the 4th cent., from Clapton; statue of a Roman warrior and some architectural antiquities found in a bastion of the old Roman wall in Bishopsgate; a curious collection of old London shop -signs (17th cent.), including that of the Boar's Head in Eastcheap (mentioned by Shaks- peare); a large collection of smaller antiquities, terracotta figures, lamps, vases, dishes, goblets, trinkets, spoons, pins, needles, etc. There are also two sculptured slabs from ^'ineveh. Two glass-cases in the centre contain autographs, including a very valuable one of Shakspeare, dated 10 Mar., 1613 (purchased for 147/.); also those of Cromwell, Wellington, and Nelson. In two other cases are impressions of the great seals of England from 767 down to the present time. The Corporation Art Gallery, on the right of the entrance to the Guildhall, opened in 1886, contains the chief historical portraits and other paintings belonging to the Corporation, collected here from the old coun- cil chamber and committee-rooms, and also a few recent donations. Among the busts are those of Cobden, Gladstone, Beaconsficld, Granville Sharp (by Chantrey), and Nelson. The numerous pigeons which congregate in the nooks and crannies of the Guildhall, or fly about the yard, will remind the traveller of the famous pigeons of St. Mark at Venice. The London pigeons, unlike their Venetian compeers, are generally left to cater for themselves, and to judge from their numbers and plumpness do so with perfect success. At the corner of Uasinghall Street, which flanks the Guildhall on the E,, stands Gresham College, founded by Sir Thomas Gres- ham (comp. p. 104) in 1579 for the delivery of lectures by seven professors, on law, divinity, medicine, rhetoric, geometry, astro- nomy, and music. The lectures were delivered in Gresham's house in Bishopsgate Street until 184.3, when the present hall was erected out of the accumulated capital. The lecture theatre can hold 500 persons. According to Gres- hams will, the lectures were to he delivered in the middle of the day, and in Latin, but the speakers now deliver their courses of four lectures each in English, at 6 p.m. To the W. of the Guildhall, in Foster Lane, behind the General Post Office, rises Goldsmiths' HaU, re-erected in the Renaissance styleby //arc/uuofcin 1835 (visitors must be introduced by a member"). Chief objects of interest in the interior: Grand Staircase, with portraits of George IV., by Northcote] William IV., hy Hayter; George III. and his consort Charlotte , by Ramsay ; in the Com- mittee Room (first floor), the remains of a Roman altar found in digging the foundations of the present hall ; portrait of Lord Mayor Myddelton, who provided London with water by the con- struction of the New River (1644), by Jansen\ portrait of Lord Mayor Sir Martin Bowes (15451, with the goblet which he bequeathed to the lioldsmiths' Company (out of which Queen Eliza- 4. CHEAPSIDE. 101 beth is said to have drunk at her coronation , and which is still preserved ) ; portraits of Queen Victoria, by Hayter ; Prince Albert, by Smith; Queen Adelaide, by Shee; busts of George III., George IV., and William IV., by Chantrey; statues of Cleopatra and the Sibyl, by Story. — The Company , incorporated in 1327, has the privilege of assaying and stamping most of the gold and silver man- ufactures of England, for which it receives a small percentage. From Goldsmiths' Hall. Foster Lane leads southwards to the W, end of Cheapside (PI. R, 39, and IIIj from the Anglo-Saxon cyp- pan, 'to buy", 'to bargain), one of the busiest streets in the city, rich in historical reminiscences , and now lined with handsome shops (to the right is Peel's Statue, p. 90). Its jewellers and mercers have been famous from a time even earlier than that of honest John Gilpin, under whose wheels the stones rattled 'as if Cheapside were mad'. Cheapside Cross, one of the memorials erected by Edward I. to Queen Eleanor, stood here till destroyed by the Puritans in 1643 ; and the neighbourhood was frequently the scene of conflicts between the pleasure-loving and turbulent apprentices of the various rival guilds. To the right and left diverge several cross- streets, the names of which probably preserve the position of the stalls of the different tradespeople in the far back period when Cheapside was an open market. Between Friday Street and Bread Street , on the right , once stood the Mermaid Tavern , rendered famous by the social meetings of Shakspeare, Beaumont, Fletcher, Dr. Donne, and other members of the club founded here by Ben Jonson in 1603. John Milton was born in Bread Street in 1608, and Sir Thomas More (b. 1480) first saw the light in Milk Street, on the opposite side. — On the right fS.) side of Cheapside, farther on, is the church of St. Mary le Bow, or simply Bow Church (so named after an earlier church on the same site borne by stone arches), one of Wren's best works, with a tower 235 ft. high. The tower, at the top of which is a dragon is 9 ft. long, is especially admirable; 'no other modern steeple', says Fergusson, 'can compare with this, either for beauty of outline or the appropriateness with which classical details are applied to so novel a purpose'. Under the church is a fine old Norman crypt. Persons born within the sound of Bow-bells are popularly called Cockneys, i.e. true Lon- doners. A curious old rhyming couplet foretold that: — 'When the Exchange grasshopper and dragon from Bow Shall meet — in London shall be much woe.' This improbable meeting actually took place in 1832, when the two vanes were sent to the same yard for repairs. The ecclesiastical Court of Arches takes its name from having origi- nally met in the vestry of this church. To the E. of St. Mary le Bow, King Street, on the left (N.), leads to Guildhall (p. 98), and Queen Street, on the right (S.), to Southwark Bridge (p. 117). 102 4. MANSION HOUSE. Farther to the E. in Cheapside, on the N. side of the street, between Ironmonger Lane and Old Jewry, rises Mercers' Hall, the guild-house of the silk mercers, rebuilt in 1884. The interior (otherwise uninteresting) contains portraits of Dean Colet, founder of St. Paul's School , and Sir Thomas Gresham, founder of the Exchange, as well as a few relics of Sir Richard Whittington. The chapel, which is adorned with modern frescoes of Becket's Mar- tyrdom and the Ascension, occupies the site of the house in which Thomas Becket was born in 1119, and where a hospital and chapel were erected to his memory about the year 1190. Henry YIII. afterwards granted the hospital to the Mercers, who had been incorporated in 1393. — Saddlers' Hall, 143 Cheapside, possesses a fine large hall and a good gateway. Old Jewry, to tbe E. of Mercers' Hall, derives its name from the synagogue which stood here prior to the persecution of the Jews in 1291. On its site, close to the Bank, now stands the Grocers' Hall, the guild-house of the Grocers, or, as they were once called, the ^Pepperers', with a fine stained-glass window. This com- pany is one of the oldest in London. Old Jewry is continued towards the N. by Coleman Street, in which, on the right, is situated the Armourers' Hall (PI. R, 39; //i), founded about 1450, and spared by the fire of 1G66. It contains an interesting and valuable collec- tion of armour and old plate. The continuation of Cheapside towards the E. is called the Poultry, once the street of the poulterers, at the farther end of which, ontheright, rises the Mansion House ( PI. R, 39; III), theofti- cial residence of the Lord Mayor during his year of office, erected by Dance in 1739-52. Lord Burlington sent in a design by the famous Italian architect Palladio, which was rejected on the naive question of one of the aldermen — 'Who was Palladio — was he a freeman of the city?' The building is preceded by a Corinthian hexastyle portico. The tympanum contains an allegorical group in relief by Sir Robert Taylor. In the interior, to the left of the entrance, is the Lord Mavor's police- court, open to the public daily from 12 to 2. The long suite of stat© and reception rooms are only shown by the special permission of the Lord Mayor. The principal room is the Egyptian Hall, in which the Lord Mayor gives his banquets and balls , said to be a reproduction of the hall described under that name by Vitruvius. It contains several pieces of modern English sculpture: 'Caractacus and the nvmph Egeria, by Foley; Genius and the Morning Star, bv Bailij ; Comus, bv Lough; Oriselda. by Marshall. The interior of St. Stephen's Church, Walbrook, behind the Mansion House , with its graceful dome supported by Corinthian columns, is considered one of Wren's masterpieces. Altarpiece by West, Stoning of St. Stephen. Queen Victoria Street, 1/3 M. in length, one of the great modern improvements of London, constructed at vast expense, leads directly from the Mansion House to Blackfriars Bridge (see p. 112). 103 5. The Bank of England. The Exchange. Stock Exchange. Merchant Taylors' Hall. Crosby Hall. St. Helen's Church. Comhill. LeadenhalL Market. St. Andrew s Undershaft. Corn Exchange. Toynhee Hall. People's Palace. Opposite the Mansion House, and bounded on the S. by Thread- needle Street, on the W. by Prince's Street, on the N. by Lothbury, and on the E. by Bartholomew Lane, stands the Bank of England (PI. R,39,43 ; III), an irregular and isolated building of one story, tbe W. part of which was designed by Sir John Soane in 1788. Tbe external walls are entirely devoid of windows, the Bank being, for the sake of security, lighted from interior courts. The only attrac- tive portion of the architecture is at the N.W. angle, which was copied from the Temple of the Sibyl at Tivoli. The edifice covers an area of about four acres. The Bank was founded in 1G91 by William Paterson, a Scots- man. It is a joint stock bank, and was the first of the kind estab- lished in the kingdom. Having exclusive privileges in the me- tropolis , secured by Royal Charter, it continued to be the only joint stock bank in London till 1834, when the London and West- minster Bank, soon to be followed by many others, was established. The Bank of England is still the only bank in Loudon which has the power of issuing paper money. Its original capital was Ij'iOOjOOOf., which has since been multiplied more than twelve- fold. It now employs 900 persons at salaries varying from 50i. to 1,2001. (in all 210,000^.). The vaults usually contain 15-20 mil- lion pounds sterling in gold and silver , while there are 20-25 millions of pounds sterling of the Bank's notes in circulation. The Bank receives 200,000/. a year for managing the national debt (now amounting to about 700, 000, OOOf.) , besides which it cairies on business like other banks in discounting bills, receiving deposits, and lending money. It is bound to buy all gold bullion brought to it, at the rate of 3^ 17s. 9c/. per oz. The average amount of money negociated in the Bank per day is over 2,000,000^ The business offices of the Bank are open to the public daily from 9 to 3 ; the Printing, Weighing, and Bullion Offices are shown only by the special order of the Governor or Deputy-Governor, to ■whom an introduction must be obtained. The account-books of the Bank are ruled and cut in the Ruling Room., and bound in the Binding Room. The Bank also contains a general Print- ing Room, and a special Bank-note Printing Room, where 15,OOJ new hank- notes are produced daily. Many notes of lUOU/. are printed, and cases have been known of the issue of notes for as large sums as 5(1.0^0^ or lOO.OOOi. The Bank pays above lO.OOOl. annually to the Stamp OftJce for stamps on notes: and it is estimated that its losses, from forgeries, etc., have amounted at times to more than 40 000^ annually. The note print- ing-press is exceedingly interesting. In the Old Note Office tne halves of old bank-notes are kept for a period of ten years. All notes paid into the Bank are at once cancelled, so that in some cases the active life of a bank-note may not be longer than a single day. Ihe cancelled notes, however, are kept for ten years, in case they may be required as testi- 104 5. THE EXCHANGE. mony in a court of law. Every month the notes received in the corre- sponding month ten vears ago are turned; and the furnace provided for this purpose, 5 ft. in height and 10ft. in diameter, is said to he c mpletely filled on each occasion. The stock of paid notes for five years amounts to ahout 80 millions-, if the notes were joined end to end they would form a ribbon 13,000 M. long, while their superficial extent would almost equal that of Hyde Park. The Bank-Xote Atiiograph Books contain the signatures of various royal and distinguished personages. A bank-note for 1.000,010;. is also exhibited to the curious visitor. The Weighing Of- rice contains a machine for weighing sovereigns {'63 per minute), which throws those of full weight into one compartment and the light ones into another. The Bullion Of nee is the treasury for the precious metals. The Bank is protected at night by a small garriscn of srldiers. In Post Office Court, Lombard Street, is the Bankers' Clearing House, a useful institution through which bankers obtain the amount of cheques and bills in their hands without the trouble of collecting them at the various banks on which they are drawn. The bills and cheques received by the various bankers during the day are here compared, and the difference settled by a cheque on the Bank of England. The amount changing hands here is enormous, reaching in the year ending Dec. 31st., 1837, the sum of 6,077,097,000^. In Capel Court, opposite the Bank, is the Stock Exchange, the headquarters of the Stock - brokers and Stock-jobbers (_about 900 in number ), each of whom pays an annual subscription of iOl. Strangers are not admitted. The Stock Exchange has recently been much enlarged by an extension on the E. side , between Throgmorton Street and Old Broad Street. In Throgmorton Street, to the N. of the Stock Exchange, is the Drapers Hall, containing a portrait of Nelson by Sir William Beechey, and a picture of Mary, Queen of Scots, and her son James I, attributed to Zucchero. Adjoining is the Drapers' Garden, con- taining one or two old mulberry-trees. The Dutch Church in Austin Friars, behind the Drapers' Hall, dates from the 14th cent, and is one of the few ecclesiastical edi- fices which escaped the fire of 1666. It contains numerous more or less interesting graves of the 14-16th centuries. The Royal Exchange [PI. R, 43 ; III), built in 1842-44 by Tite, a successor to the first Exchange erected in 1564-70 by Sir Thomas Gresham, is preceded by a Corinthian portico, and approached by a broad flight of steps. The group in the tympanum is by West- macott: in the centre is Commerce, holding the charter of the Ex- change in her hand ; on the right the Lord Mayor , municipal officials, an Indian, an Arab, a Greek, and a Turk; on the left English merchants, a Chinese, a Persian, a Negro, etc. On the architrave below is the inscription : 'The Earth is the Lord's and the fulness thereof". The interior of the Exchange forms a quadrangular covered court surrounded by colonnades. In the centre is a statue of Queen Victoria, by Lough; in the N.E. and S.E. corners are statues of Qneen Elizabeth , by Watson, and Charles II. The walls of the colonnades bear the armorial bearings and products of the different countries of Europe and America, in encaustic painting. The 5. MERCHANT TAYLORS' HALL. 105 tesselated pavement of Turkey stone is the original one of Gresham's Exchange, opened l»y Queen Elizabeth on June 23rd, 1571. The chief business hour is from 3.30 to 4.30 p.m., and the most im- portant days are Tuesdays and Fridays. On the E. side rises a campanile, 180 ft. in height. On the front (E. ) of the tower is a statue of Sir Thomas Gresham , and at the top is a large gilded vane in the shape of a grasshopper (Gresham's crest). The shops on the outside of the Exchange greatly disfigure the building. IS early opposite the Exchange is No. 15 Cornhill, occupied by Messrs. Birch, confectioners, and said to be the oldest shop in London. At the E. end of the Exchange a staircase ascends to Lloyd's Subscription Rooms , the central point of every kind of business connected with navigation, maritime trade, marine insurance, and shipping intelligence. The vestibule is adorned with statues of Prince Albert by Lough , and Huskisson by Gibson. On the wall is a tablet to the 'Times' newspaper, erected in recognition of the public service it rendered by the exposure of a fraudulent financial conspiracy of gigantic character. The first room is used by Under- writers, the second by Merchants, and the third by Ship-Captains. The space in front of the Bank and the Exchange is the chief point of convergence of the London omnibus traffic , which during business hours is enormous. In front of the Exchange is an Equestrian Statue of Wellington, by Chantrey, erected in 1844, beside which is a handsome fountain with a female figure. On the S.E. side of the Exchange is a statue of Sir Rowland Hill , the inventor of the cheap postal system. Behind the Exchange, in Threadneedle Street, is a statue, in a sitting posture, of Peabody (_d. 1869j, the American philanthropist, by Story, erected in 1871 by public subscription. George Peabodi/, an American merchant, who carried on an extensive business and spent much of his time in London , gave at difl'erent times upwards of half a million of money for the erection of suitable dwellings for the working classes of the metropolis. The property is managed by a body of trustees. The number of persons accommodated in the Peabody Buildings is about 20,OjO, each family paying an average weekly rent of about 4s., which includes the use of baths and wash-houses. The capital of the fund now amounts to about 1,000,000^. Mr. Peabody declined a baronetcy oifered by the Queen, but accepted a miniature portrait of Her Majesty. He spent and bequeathed still larger sums for educational and benevolent purposes in America, the grand total of his gifts amounting to nearly 2,000,U00i. sterling. Farther along Threadneedle Street, beyond Finch Lane, on the E. side of the street, is the Merchant Taylors' Hall, the largest of the London Companies' halls, erected, after the Great Fire of 1666, by Jarman (admission on application to a member). The company was incorporated in 1466. The handsome hall contains some good portraits : Henry VIII., by Paris Bordone ; Duke of York, \)y Lawrence; Duke of Wellington, by Wilkie; Charles I. ; Char- les II. ; James II. 5 William III. ; Queen Anne; George III. and his consort; Lord Chancellor Eldon , by Briggs ; Pitt, by Hoppner. 106 5. ST. HELEN'S CHURCH. There is also a valuable collection of old plate. The small , but interesting Crypt was spared by the Fire. Near this point, in Bishopsgate Street, stands * Crosby Hall, built in 1466 by Alderman Sir John Crosby, and once occupied by the notorious Duke of Gloucester, afterwards Richard III. The building subsequently belonged to Sir Thomas More, and it is mentioned by Shakspeare in his 'Richard III.' For a long time it was used for the reception of ambassadors, and was considered the finest house in London. During the Protectorate it was a prison ; and it afterwards became in turn a meeting-house, a warehouse, and a concert and lecture room. It has been lately restored, and is now used as a restaurant (p. 15). Crosby Hall deserves a visit as being one of the few existing relics of the domestic architecture of mediaeval London, and the only one in the Gothic style. The present street front and many parts of the interior do not belong to the ancient structure. The Banqueting Hall has a fine oaken roof. St. Helen's Church, near Crosby Hall, called by Dean Stanley the 'Westminster Abbey of the City', once belonged to an ancient nunnery and dates originally from 1145-50. Among other old monuments, it contains those of Sir John Crosby and Sir Thomas Gresham (see p. 100). The Latin inscription on the tomb of Sir Julius Caesar (d. 1636), Master of the Rolls in the reign of James I., is to the effect that he had given his bond to Heaven to yield up his soul willingly when God should demand it. His monument, in the Chapel of the Holy Ghost , is by Nicholas Stone. Over the picturesque 'Nuns' Gate' is a recent inscription to Alberico Gen- tile, the Italian jurist , and professor of civil law at Oxford, who was buried near it. A stained-glass window was erected in 1884 to the memory of Shakspeare , who was a parishioner in 1598 and is rated in the parish books for bl. 13s. Ad. See 'Annals of St. Helen's, Bishopsgate", by Eev. J. E. Cox, D.D. (1876). — In St. Helen's Place is the modern Hall of the Leather sellers , a com- pany incorporated at the end of the 14th century. The building is erected over the old crypt of St. Helen's Nunnery. On the W. side of Bishopsgate Street Without (No. 168) is the picturesque old house (now a tavern) of Sir Paul Pindar (d. 1650), one of the merchant-princes of his time. The National Provincial Bank of England^ 112 Bishopsgate Street, is worth visiting for the beautiful interior of its large hall, a remarkable specimen of the Byzantine-Romanesque style , with polished granite columns and polychrome decoration. Shoreditch, the continuation of Bishopsgate Street, leads to the chief goods depot (once the Shoreditch or Bishopsgate terminus) of the Great Eastern Railway, and beyond it to Kingsland and to Dalston, where the German Hospital is situated. In Cornhill , the street which leads to the E. straight past the S. side of the Exchange, rises on the right (S.) St. Michael's 5. ST. ANDREW rNDERSHAFT. 107 Church, with a large late- Gothic tower, built by Wren, and lately restored by Sir G. G. Scott. Farther on is St. Peter's Church, which according to a groundless tradition was originally built by the an- cient Britons. Gray, the poet (1716-71), was born in the house which formerly occupied the site of No. 41 Cornhill. In Leadenhall Street, which continues Cornhill, stands, on the right and near the corner of Gracechurch Street, Leadenhall Market, one of the chief marts in London for poultry, game, and hides (see p. 27) : large additions have recently been made to this market. Farther on, to the left, is the small church of St. Andrew TJndershaft (i.e. under the maypole, as the maypole which used to be erected here was higher than the tower of the <;hurchj ; the turreted late- Gothic tower dates from 1532. At the end of the N. aisle is the tomb of Stow, the antiquary (d. 1605). Still farther on , on the same side, is t\\e Church of St. Catherine Cree, with an interior by Inigo Jones, being the suc- cessor of an older church in which Holbein (d. 1543) is said to have been interred. The character of the services held here by Archbp. Laud in 1631 formed one of the charges in his trial. The old House of the East India Company , in which Charles Lamb was a clerk, stood at the corner of Leadenhall Street and Lime Street. The New Zealand Chambers (No. 34), nearly opposite St. Andrew Under- shaft's, are one of Norman Shaw's reproductions of mediccval archi- tecture. At the end of Leadenhall Street is the Aldgnte Station of the Metropolitan Railway. Lombard Street and Fenchurch Street , forming a line on the S. nearly parallel to Cornhill and Leadenhall Street, are also among the busiest thoroughfares of the city. Lombard Street has been for ages the most noted street in London for banking and finance, and has inherited its name from the 'Lombard' money dealers from Genoa and Florence, who, in the 14th and 15th centuries, took the place of the discredited and persecuted Jews of 'Old Jewry" as money lenders. Fenchurch Street reminds us by its name of the fenny character of the district when the old church was built (drained by the little stream of 'Lang bourne' running into the 'Walbrook')-;. On the N. side of the street is the Elephant Tavern (rebuilt), where Hogarth lodged for some time, and which was once adorned with several of his works. Adjacent is the Iron- mongers' Hall, whose company dates from the reign of Edward lY., with an interesting interior, portraits of Isaak AValton and Admiral Hood, etc. Fenchurch Street is connected with Great Tower Street by Mincing Lane (so called from the 'minchens', or nuns of St. Helen's, to whom part of it belonged), which is the central point of the colonial wholesale trade. The fine Tower of All Hallows Staining in this lane is one of the oldest of the relics which have t Mr. Loftic thinks 'fen' may De a corruption of the Anglo-Saxon /om (hay), as 'grace' in Gracechurch Street is of grass. 108 5. TOYNBEE HALL. survived the Great Fire. The Clothworkers' Hall, in the same street, dates originally from the loth century. A little to the E., in Mark Lane (originally Mart Lane) , is the Corn Exchange (PL R, 43 ; ///), and near it is Fenchurch Street Station (for the railway to' Bla'ckwall, p. 34). On the E. side of Mark Lane is Hart Street, with the Church of St. Olave, interesting as having survived the Great Fire, and as the church once frequented by Samuel Pepys (d. 1703). The picturesque interior contains a number of curious old tombs, including those of Pepys and his wife. A bust of Pepys was placed on the S. wall in 1884. Many persons who died of the plague in 1665 are buried in the churchyard. In the same street once stood a monastery of the 'Crossed Friars', a reminiscence of whom still exists in the adjoining street of Crutched Friars. On theE. margin of the City proper lie Whitbchapel, a district chiefly inhabited by artisans, andHouNDSDixcn, the quarter of Jew brokers and second-hand dealers, whence the Minories lead south- wards to the Tower and the Thames, In the Minories rises the old Church of the Trinity, once belonging to a Minorite nunnery, and containing the head of the Duke of Suffolk (beheaded, 1554) and several curious old monuments. The main thoroughfare traversing this E. London district is Whitechapel Road, continued by Mile End Road, leading to Bow and Stratford (comp. p. 316). To the left, about 1/4 M. beyond Aid- gate Station (p. 36), diverges Commercial Street, in which stands St. Jude's Church (PI. R, 47 ; JJl), containing copies of four of the principal works of Mr. G. F. Watts, finished ott' by that artist himself ('Love and Death', ^Messenger of Death". 'Death crown- ing Innocence', 'The Good Samaritan'). The exterior is adorned with a flne mosaic after Watts. Adjoining the church is Toynbee Hall, named after Arnold Toynbee, who died in the prime of youth (in iS83), while actively engaged in lecturing on political economy to the working-men of London. The hall, which is a 'hall' in the academic sense, contains rooms for about 2U residents, chietly Oxford and Cambridge graduates desirous of sharing the life and experiences of the E. end poor. It also contains drawing, dining, reading, and lecture rooms, a library, etc., in which numerous social meetings are held for the people of the neighbourhood. Those interested in work of this kind should apply to the Warden (Rev. S. Barnett, vicar of St. Jude"s). Toynbee Hall is also one of the centres of the 'University Extension Lectures' scheme. — Oxford House, Bethnal Green, is a similar institution. A Loan Exhibition of Pictures, established by Mr. and Mrs. Earnett in 1880, is held for a fortnight every Easter (10-10; free) in the schoolrooms adjoining St. .]ude"s. It generally contains some of the best works of modern English artists, and now ranks among the artistic 'events' of the year. In Mile End Road, about Vo M. farther on, is the People's Palace for East London, a large institution for the 'recreation and amusement, the intellectual and material advancement of the vast artisan population of the East End". Its form was suggested by the 'Palace of Delight' described in Mr. Walter Besant's novel, 'All Sorts and Conditions of Men'; and the nucleus of the lOOOOOi. 6. LONDON BRIDGE. 109 required for its erection was furnished by an endowment of Mr. J, F. Barber Beaumont (d. 1841). This has been largely supple- mented by voluntary public subscriptions, including GO.OOOi. from the Drapers' Company. The large *Queeris Hall, opened by Queen Victoria in May. 1887, is adorned with statues of the Queens of England by F. Verheyden. When complete the Palace will comprise technical and trade schools , a reference library, reading-rooms, a covered garden and promenade . an open-air garden and recreation ground, swimming-baths, gymnasia, schools of cookery- and needle- work, etc. Exhibitions, concerts, and entertainments of various kinds are held here ; and the evening classes are attended by about 3000 students. 6. London Bridge. The Monument. Lower Thames Street. Fishmongers' Hall. St. Magnus the Martyr's. Billingsgate. Custom House. Coal Exchange. King William Street, a wide thoroughfare with handsome build- ings, leads S.E. from the Bank to London Bridge. Immediately on the left, at the corner of Lombard Street, is the church of St. Mary Woolnoth, erected in 1716, by Hawksmoor. It contains a tablet to the memory of Newton, the friend of Cowper the poet, with an epitaph by himself. Farther on, at the point where King William Street, Gracechurch Street, Eastcheap, and Cannon Street fp. 116) converge, on a site once occupied by Falstaff's 'Boar's Head Tavern', rises the Statue of William IV., by Nixon. Adjacent is the Monu- ment Station of the Underground Railway (p. 38). To the left, in Fish Street Hill, is the Monument (see p. 110). On each side of the first arch of London Bridge, which crosses Lower Thames Street (p. Ill), are flights of stone steps descending to the street below. London Bridge (PI. R, 42; ///), until a century ago the only bridge over the Thames in London, and still the most important, connects the City, the central point of business, with the Borough, a densely populated . chiefly manufacturing district , on the Surrey (S.) side of the river (see p. 293). The Saxons, and perhaps the Romans before them, erected various wooden bridges over the Thames on the site of the present London Bridge , but these were all at different periods carried away by floods or destroyed by fire. At length in 1176 Henry II. instructed Peter, chaplain of the church of St. Mary Cole, to construct a stone bridge at this point, but the work was not completed till 1209, in the reign of Henry's son, John. A chapel, dedicated to St. Thomas of Canterbury, was built upon the bridge, and a row of houses sprang up on each side , so that the bridge resembled a continuous street. It was terminated at both banks by fortified gates , on the pinnacles of which the heads of traitors used to be exposed. 110 6. THE MONUMENT. In one of the houses dwelt Sir John Hewitt, Lord Mayor in the time of Queen Elizabeth, whose daughter, according to the romantic story, fell into the river, and was rescued by Edward Osborne, his apprentice. The brave and fortunate youth afterwards married the young lady and founded the family of the present Duke of Leeds. The present London Bridge , 33 yds. higher up the river than the old bridge (removed in 1832), was designed by John Rennie, a Scotch engineer, begun in 18'25 under the superintendence of his sons. Sir John and George Rennie, and completed in 1831. The total outlay, including the cost of the approaches, was about 2,000,000^. The bridge, 928ft. long and 54 ft. broad, is borne by five granite arches, of which that in the centre has a span of 152 ft. The lamp-posts on the bridge are cast of the metal of French cannon captured in the Peninsular War. It is estimated that 15,000 vehicles and about 100,000 ped- estrians cross London Bridge daily , a fact which may give the stranger some idea of the prodigious traffic carried on in this part of the city. New-comers should pay a visit to London Bridge on a week- day during business hours to see this busy scene and hear the almost deafening noise of the traffic. Stoppages or 'blocks' in the stream of vehicles , of course , sometimes take place ; but, thanks to the skilful management of the police, such interruptions are seldom of long duration. One of the police regulations is that slow-moving vehicles travel at the sides, and quick ones in the middle. London Bridge divides London into 'above' and 'below' bridge. Looking down the river we survey the Port of London, the part immediately below the bridge being called the Pool. To this portion of the river sea - going vessels of the largest size have access , there being as yet no bridge below this point. On the right and left, as far as the eye can penetrate the smoky atmosphere , are seen forests of masts ; while high above and behind the houses on both banks rises the rigging of large vessels in the various docks. Above bridge the traffic is carried on chiefly by penny steamboats and coal barges. Among the buildings visible from the bridge are, on the N. side of the river, the Tower, Billingsgate Market, the Custom House , the Monument , St. Paul's , a great number of other churches, and the Cannon Street Station, while on the Surrey side lie St. Saviour's Church, Barclay and Perkins's Brewery, and the ex- tensive double station of the South Eastern and Brighton Railways. An admirable survey of the traffic on the bridge as well as on the river is obtained from The Monument (PI. R, 43; III), in Fish Street Hill, a little to the north. This consists of a fluted column, 202 ft. in height, designed by Wren, and was erected in 1671-77 in com- memoration of the Great Fire of London, which, on 2-7th Sept., 1666, destroyed 460 streets with 89 churches and 13,200 houses, valued at 7,335.000^. The height of the column is said to equal its distance from the house in Pudding Lane in which the fire broke out. A winding staircase of 345 steps (adm. 3c?.) ascends the column 6. BILLINGSGATE. 1 1 1 to a platform enclosed by an iron cage (added to put a stop to sui- cides from the monument), above which rises a gilt urn with blaz- ing flames, 42 ft. in height. The pedestal bears inscriptions and allegorical reliefs. Immediately to the W. of London Bridge . at the lower end of Lpper Thames Street , stands Fishmongers' Hall , a guild-house erected in 1831 on the site of an older building. The Company of Fishmongers existed as early as the time of Edward I. It originally consisted of two separate trades . that of the Salt- Fishmongers and that of the Stock- Fishmongers^ which were united to form the pre- sent body in the reign of Henry YIII. The guild is one of the richest in London , possessing an annual revenue of 20,000^. In politics it has usually been distinctively attached to the Whig party, while the Merchant Taylors are recognised as the great Tory com- pany. On the landing of the staircase is a statue of Lord Mayor Walworth (a member of the company), who slew the rebel Wat Tyler (p. 95). Among the objects of interest in the interior are the dagger with which that rebel was slain; a richly embroidered pall used at Walworth's funeral ; a chair made out of part of the first pile driven in the construction of Old London Bridge, supposed to have been submerged in the Thames for 650 years ; portraits of William III. and his queen by Murray, George II. and his consort by Shackleton, and Queen Victoria by Herbert Smith. Lower Thames Street runs eastwards from London Bridge to the Custom House and the Tower. Chaucer, the 'father of English poetry', is said to have lived here in 1379-85. Close to the bridge, on the right, stands the handsome church of St. Magnus the Mar- tyr, with a cupola and low spire, built by Wren in 1676. It con- tains the tomb of Miles Coverdale, Bishop of Exeter, author of the first complete printed English version of the Bible (1535). Farther to the E., on the Thames, is Billingsgate (so called from a gate of old London, named, as tradition says, after Belin, a king of the Britons), the chief fish-market of London, the bad lan- guage used at which has become proverbial. In the reign of Eliza- beth this was a market for all kinds of provisions , but since the reign of William III. it has been used for fish only. Fish has been landed and sold here from time immemorial. In the reign of Edward I. the prices of fish were as follows: soles, per doz., 3d. ; oysters, per gallon, 2d. •, four whitings Id. ; four best salmon 5s. ; eels, per quarter of a hundred, 2d. ; and so on. The best fish is bought at the beginning of the market by the regular fishmongers. After them come the costermongers, who fill their barrows at lower prices, and are said to sell a third of the fish con- sumed in London. Billingsgate wharf is the oldest on the Thames. The present market, with a figure of Britannia on the apex of the pediment , was designed by Horace Jones , and opened in July, 1877. The market begins daily at 5 a.m., and is one of the sights 112 7. BLACKFRIARS BRIDGE. of London (see p. 26). At one corner of the market is the Three Tuns Tavern, noted for its fish dinners (p. 15). Adjacent to the flsh-market is the Custom House, built by Laing in 1814-17, with an imposing facade towards the Thames, 490 ft. in length, by SirR. Smirke. The customs-dues levied at the port of London amount to above 12,000,000^ a year, equalling that of all the other English sea-ports put together. The London Custom House employs more than 2200 officials; in the Long Room (190 ft. in length by 66 in breadth) no fewer than 80 clerks are at work. Confiscated articles are stored in a warehouse reserved for this purpose , and are disposed of at quarterly sales by auction, which take place in Mark Lane, and yield 5000i. per annum. Attached to the Custom House is a Museum containing curious contrivances for smuggling, etc. Between the Custom House and the Thames is a broad quay, which affords a fine view of the river and shipping. The Goal Exchange, opposite the W. wing of the Custom House, erected in 1849 from plans by Bunning, is in the Italian style, and has a tower 106 ft. in height. Adjoining it on the E. is a hypo- caust, or stove of masonry belonging to a Roman bath , discovered when the foundations were being dug (shown on application to one of the attendants). The circular hall , with glass dome and triple gallery, is adorned with frescoes by F. Sang, representing the formation of coal and process of mining. The flooring is in- laid with 40,000 pieces of wood , arranged in the form of a mariners compass. The sword in the municipal coat-of-arms is said to be formed of the wood of a mulberry-tree planted by Peter the Great in 1698, when he was learning the art of ship-building at Deptford. — The amount of coal annually consumed in London alone at present averages upwards of 8,000,000 tons (comp. p. 69). A huge new Bridge has been begun by the Corporation below the Tower, but as yet nothing but the piers and the approaches have been constructed. The novel principle on which the bridge is to be built will be best understood from an inspection of the model exhibited in the grounds of the Crystal Palace (see p. 311). The bridge is expected to be finished in 1890 or 1891, at a total cost of 750,000/. 7. Blackfriars Bridge. Thames Embankment. Queen Victoria Street. Cannon Street. Cleopatra's Needle. Times' Publishing Office. Bible Society. Heralds' College. London Stone. Southwark Bridge. Blackfriars Bridge (PL R, 34, 35 ; //), an iron structure, built by Cubitt, and opened in 1869, occupies the site of a stone bridge dating from 1769, the piers of which had given way. The bridge, which consists of five arches (the central having a span of 185ft.) supported by granite piers, is 1272ft. in length, including the abutments, and 80 ft. broad. The cost of construction amounted to 7. VICTORIA EMBANKMENT. 113 320,000^ The dome of St. Paul's is seen to the greatest advantage from this bridge, which also commands an excellent view otherwise. Just below Blackfriars Bridge the Thames is crossed by the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway Bridge. On the right bank of the river is the spacious Blackfriars Bridge Station. The bridge derives its name from an ancient Monastery of the Black Friars, situated on the bank of the river, and dating from 1276, where several parliaments once met, and where Cardinals Wolsey and Cam- peggio pronounced sentence of divorce against the unfortunate Queen Catharine of Arragon in 1529 ('King Henry VIII.' ii. 4). Shakspeare once lived at Blackfriars, and in 1599 acted at a theatre which formerly occupied part of the site of the monastery, and of which the name Playhouse Yard is still a reminiscence. In 1607 Ben Jonson was also a resident here. The new *Victoria Embankment leads from Blackfriars B/idge towards the W. along the N. bank of the Thames as far as West- minster. It was constructed in 1864-70, under the supervision of Sir Joseph W. Bazalgette, chief engineer of the late Metropolitan Board of Works (p. 69), at a cost of nearly 2,000,000^. It is about 2300 yds. in length, and consists of a macadamised carriage-way 64 ft. wide, with a foot pavement 16 ft. broad on the land-side, and one 20 ft. broad on the river-side. The whole of this area was once covered by the tide twice a day. It is protected on the side next the Thames by a granite wall, 8 ft. thick, for which a foundation was made by sinking iron cylinders into the river-bed as deeply as pos- sible and filling them with concrete. Under the Embankment run three different tunnels. On the inland side is one traversed by the Metropolitan District Railway (p. 36), while on the Thames side there are two, one above the other, the lower containing one of the principal intercepting sewers (p. 70), and the upper one holding water and gas pipes and telegraph wires. Rows of trees have been planted along the sides of the Embankment, which in a few years will afford a shady promenade. At intervals are large openings, with stairs leading to the floating steamboat piers (p. 38), which are constructed of iron, and rise and fall with the tide. Part of the land reclaimed from the river has been converted into tasteful gardens. The gardens above Charing Cross Bridge are embellished with bronze statues of General Outram, Sir Bartle Frere, and William Tyndale, the translator of the New Testament, and those below with statues of Robert Raikes, the founder of Sunday schools, and Robert Burns. A statue of Isambard Brunei stands on the Em- bankment near Waterloo Bridge ; and another, of John Stuart Mill, was erected near the Temple Station in 1878. Above Waterloo Bridge, at the back of the Savoy (p. 141), is the Medical Exam- ination Hall, a building of red brick and Portland stone in the Italian style, erected in 1886. It contains a statue of the Queen by William- son, unveiled in 1889. Near the Temple Station, opposite Mill's statue, is the tasteful Office of the London School Board, the weekly meet- ings of which are held here on Thursday at 3 p.m. (public admitted Baedeker, London. 7th Edit. 8 114 7. CLEOPATRA'S NEEDLE. to the gallery; comp. 70). At the E. end of the Emhaiikmeiit, close to Blackfriars Bridge, is the handsome new City of London School, completed in 1883. To the ^V. of the school is the new Gothic building of Sion College and Library (see p. 17), opened in Dec, 1886. To the N., in Tudor Street, is the new Guildhall School of Music, a building in the Italian style, erected by the Cor- poration of London in 1886 at a cost of 2'2,000i. — In 1878 the Em- bankment was embellished by the erection on it, by the Adelphi Steps, of Cleopatra's Needle (F\. R, 30; ij, an Egyptian obelisk from Alexandria. This famous obelisk was presented to the English Government by Mo- hammed Ali, and brought to this country by the private munificence of Dr. Erasmus Wilson, who gave 10,000i. for this purpose. Properly speaking Cleopatra's Needle is the name of the companion obelisk now in New York, which stood erect at Alexandria till its removal, while the one now in London lay prostrate for many years. Both monoliths were originally brought from Heliopolis, which, as we are informed by the Flaminian Obelisk at Rome, was full of obelisks. The inscription on the London obelisk refers to Heliopolis as the 'house of the Phoenix'. The obelisk, which is of reddish granite, measures 681/2 ft. in height, and is 8 ft. wide at the base. Its weight is 180 tons. The Obelisk of Luxor at Paris is 76 ft. in height, and weighs 240 tons. The pedestal of grey granite is IS'Vs ft. high, including the steps. The inscriptions on it are as follows. E. Face. 'This obelisk, quarried at Syene, was erected at On (Heliopolis) by the Pharaoh Thothmes III., about 1500 B.C. Lateral inscriptions were added nearly two centuries later by Rameses the Great. Removed during the Greek dynasty to Alexandria, the royal city of Cleopatra, it was there erected in the 8th year of Augustus Csesar, B.C. 23\ — W. Face. 'This obelisk, prostrate for centuries on the sands of Alexandria, was presented to the British nation A. D. 1819 by Mohammed Ali, Viceroy of Egypt : a worthy memorial of our distin- guished countrymen, Nelson and Abercromby'. — N. Face. 'Through the patriotic zeal of Erasmus Wilson, F. R,. S., this obelisk was brought from Alexandria encased in an iron cylinder. It was abandoned diiring a storm in the Bay of Biscay, recovered, and erected on this spot by John Dixon C.E., in the 42nd year of the reign of Queen Victoria, 1878'. — River Face, added at the suggestion of the Queen. 'William Asken, .Tames Gardiner, Joseph Benbow, Michael Burns, William Donald, William Patan , per- ished in a bold attempt to succour the crew of the obelisk ship 'Cleo- patra'" during the storm, October 14th, 1877'. Two large bronze Sphinxes, designed by Mr. G. VuUiamy, have been placed at the base of the Needle. The principal approaches to the Victoria Embankment are from Blackfriars Bridge and Westminster Bridge (p. 193), from Charing Cross (p. 147), and from Arundel, Norfolk, Surrey, and Villiers Streets, all leading off the Strand. The Albert Embankment{F\.G,22, R,29 ; IV), completed in 1869, extending along the right bank of the Thames from Westminster Bridge to Vauxhall Bridge, a distance of about V.^t^s of a mile, has a roadway 60 ft. in breadth, and cost above 1,000,000^. Adja- cent to it rises the new Hospital of St. Thomas (p. 297). — The Chelsea Embankment , on the left bank, between the Albert Sus- pension Bridge and Chelsea Hospital (p. 292), was opened in 1873. 7. OFFICE OF THE TIMES. 115 In Neiv Bridge Street, which leads straight to the N, from Black- friars Bridge, immediately to the right, is the Blackfriars Station of the Metropolitan District Railway (p. 37) ; and farther on, beyond Queen Victoria Street (see below), is the large Ludgate Hiil Station of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway (p. 34), opposite which, on the left, the prison of Bridewell (so called from the old 'miraculous' Well of St. Bride or St. Bridget) stood down to 1864. The site of the prison was once occupied by Bridewell Palace , in which Shakspeare lays the 3rd Act of his 'Henry VIII.' New Bridge Street ends at the corner of Fleet Street (p. 134), the prolongation to the N. being called Farringdon Street (see p. 94). To the E., opposite Fleet Street, divergef; Ludgate Hill, leading to St. PauVs Cathedral, and passing under the viaduct of the Lon- don, Chatham, and Dover Railway (p. 33). QuEBN Victoria Street, a broad and handsome thoroughfare, leads straight from Blackfriars Bridge, towards the E., to the Mansion House and the Bank. In Water Lane, to the left, stands Apothecaries' Hall, built in 1670, and containing portraits of James I., Charles I., and others. The company, most of whose members really are what the name implies, grants licenses to dispense medicines; and to give medical advice ; and pure drugs are prepared in the chemical laboratories at the back of the Hall. On the left side of Queen Victoria Street, farther on, is the Office of the Times (PI. R, 35 ; II), a handsome building of red brick. The tympanum bears an alle- gorical device with allusions to times past and future. Behind the Publishing Office, in Printing House Square, is the interesting Printing Office. Tickets of admission are issued on written appli- cation to the Manager, enclosing a note of introduction or reference. Visitors should be careful to attend at the hour named in the order, when the second edition of the paper is being printed. No fewer than 20,000 copies can be struck off in an hour by the wonderful mechanism of the Walter press, and about 70,000 are issued daily. The continuous rolls or webs of paper, with which the machine feeds itself, are each 4 miles in length, and of these 28 to 30 are used in one day. The finished and folded copies of the Times are thrown out at the other end of the machine. The type-setting machines are also of great interest. The official who conducts visitors round the works explains all the details (no gra- tuity). The electric light is used in the office. The Times celebrated its centenary in 1884. Printing House Square stands on a corner of old London which for many ages was occupied by frowning Norman fortresses. Part of the castle of Montflquet, a follower of the Conqueror, is said to have stood here ; and the ground between the S. side of Queen Victoria Street , or Earl Street , and the Thames was the site of Baynard's Castle (mentioned in 'Richard III'.) with its extensive precincts, which replaced an earlier Roman fortress, and probably 116 7. HERALDS' COLLEGE. a British work of defence. Baynard's Castle was presented by Queen Elizabeth to the Earls of Pembroke, and continued to be their resi- dence till its destruction in the Great Fire i. Adjacent to the Times Printing Office on the E. rises the large building occupied by the British and Foreign Bible Society, erect- ed in 1868. The number of Bibles and Testaments issued by this important society, which was founded in 1804, now amounts to more than four millions a year, printed in 286 different languages and dialects. The total number of copies issued since its foundation exceeds 116,000,000. The annual income of the society from sub- scriptions and the sale of Bibles is about 250, OOOi. Visitors arc shown a long series of Bibles in different languages. At the W. end of Queen Victoria Street, adjoining the Black- friars Metropolitan Station, is the large St. Paul's Station of the London, Chatham, and Dover Kailway. Opposite is Upper Thames Street, leading on the right to London Bridge (p. 109). In St. Bennet's Hill, the first cross-street, was situated Doctors' Commons Will Office, prior to its removal in 1874 to Somerset House, in the Strand (see p. 142). To the left, in Queen Victoria Street, is Heralds' College, or the College of Arms (rebuilt in 1683), formerly the town house of the Earls of Derby, The library contains a number of interesting objects, including a sword, dagger, and ring belonging to James IV. of Scotland, who fell at Flodden in 1513 ; the Warwick roll, a series of portraits of the Earls of Warwick from the Conquest to the time of Richard III. (executed by Rous at the end of the 15th cent.); genealogy of the Saxon kings, from Adam, more curious than trustworthy, illustrated with drawings of the time of Henry VIII.; portrait of the celebrated Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury, from his tomb in old St. Paul's. The college also contains a valuable treasury of genealogical records. The office of Earl-Marshal, president of Heralds' College, is hereditary in the person of the Duke of Norfolk. The college consists of three kings-at-arms, Garter, Clarencieux, and Korroy — six heralds, Lancaster, Somerset, Eichmond, York, Windsor, and Chester — and four pursuivants, Eouge Croix , Blue Mantle , Portcullis , and Rouge Dragon. The main object of the corporation is to make out and preserve the pedigrees and armorial bearings of noble and great families. It grants arms to fami- lies recently risen to position and distinction , and determines doubtful questions respecting the derivation and value of arms. Fees for a new coat-of-arms lOl. lOs. or more; for searching the records il. A little farther on , Queen Victoria Street intersects Cannon Street, which is the most direct route between St. Paul's Church- yard and London Bridge, and Queen Street (p. 101), leading from Cheapside to Southwark Bridge. Cannon Street, which is 2/3 M. long, was constructed at a cost of 589,470^., and opened in 1854. t This is the ordinary account, but it is disputed by Mr. Loftie, who maintains that the later house known as Baynard's Castle did not occupy the site of the original fortress of that name. See his 'London' (in the 'Historic Towns Series'; 1887). 7. SOUTHWARK BRIDGE. 1 1 7 This street contains the Cannon Street (p. 37) and Mansion House (p. 37) stations of the Metropolitan District Railway, and also the extensive Cannon Street Station, the City Terminus of the South Eastern Railway (p. 33 ; hotel, see p. 7). Opposite stands the church of St. Swithin, popularly regarded as the saint of the weather, into the wall of which is built the London Stone, an old Roman milestone, supposed to have been the milliarium of the Roman forum in London, from which the distances along the various British high-roads were reckoned. Against this stone, which is now protected by an iron grating, Jack Cade once struck his staff, exclaiming 'Now is Mortimer lord of the city'. In St. Swithin's Lane stands the large range of premises known as ^New Court\ occupied by Messrs. Rothschild. — Close by is Salters' Hall, and near it was Salters' Hall Chapel , begun by the ejected minister Richard Mayo in 1667 , and long celebrated for its preachers and theological disputations. — Down to 1853 the Steel Yard, at one time a factory or store-house of the Hanseatic League, established in 1250, stood on the site now occupied by the Cannon Street Ter- minus. — Adjacent to the station, on the W., is Dowgate Hill, ■with the Hall of the Skinners, who were incorporated in 1327. The court (with its wooden porch) and interior were built soon after the Fire ; the staircase and the wainscoted 'Cedar Room' are interesting. Southwark Bridge (PI. R, 38 ; ///), erected by John Rennie in 1815-19 , at a cost of 800,000i. , is '700 ft. long, and consists of three iron arches , borne by stone piers. The span of the central arch is 240 ft., that of the side ones 210 ft. The penny toll, form- erly levied here, was abolished in 1865, and the bridge purchased by the City for a sum of 218,868L The traffic is comparatively small on account of the inconvenience of the approaches to the bridge, but has of late greatly increased. In Southwark, on the S. bank, lies Barclay and Perkinses Brewery (p. 296). The river farther down is crossed by the imposing five-arched railway bridge of the South Eastern Railway (terminus at Cannon Street Station, see above). 8. The Tower. Trinity House. Royal Mint. Thames Subways. The Tower (PL R, 46 ; ///), the ancient fortress and gloomy state-prison of London, and historically the most interesting spot in England, is an irregular mass of buildings erected at various per- iods, surrounded by a battlemented wall and a deep moat , which was drained in 1843. It stands on the bank of the Thames, to the E. of the City, and outside the bounds of the ancient city-walls. The present external appearance of the Tower is very unlike what it originally was , perhaps no fortress of the same age having undergone greater transformations. It is possible , though very 118 8. THE TOWER. douT)tful, tliat a fortification of some kind stood here in Roman times , but the Tower of London properly originated with AVilliam the Conqueror (see p. 64). Though at first a royal palace and stronghold, the Tower is hest known in history as a prison. It is now a government arsenal, and is still kept in repair as a fortress. The ground-plan is in the form of an irregular pentagon, which covers an area of 13 acres, and is enclosed by a double line of cir- cumvallation (the outer and inner ballium or ward), strengthened with towers. The square White Tower rises conspicuously in the centre. A broad quay lies between the moat and the Thames. The Tower is conveniently reached by the Underground Railway to Mark Lane Station (PI. R, 42; ///). The Tower is provided with four entrances, viz. the Iron Gate, the Water Gate , and the Traitors' Gate , all on the side next the Thames; and on the W., the principal entrance, or Lions' Gate, so called from the royal menagerie formerly kept here. (The lions were removed to the Zoological Gardens in Regent's Park in 1834.) To the right is the Ticket Office, where tickets are procured for the Armoury (()(/.) and the Crown Jewels (6d.). The Tower is open daily from 10 to 4 (till 6 on Mon. & Sat. in summer). Mon- days and Saturdays are free days, and should be avoided on account of the crowd. Really interested visitors may sometimes obtain an order from the Constable of the Tower admitting them to parts not shown to the general public. The quaintly-attired Warders or Beef-eaters, officially designated Yeomen of the Guard, who are stationed at different parts of the building , are all old soldiers of meritorious service. Tlie term Beef-eater is comn)oiily explained as a corruption of Buffetiers, or attendants at the royal Buffet, but is more probably a nickname bestowed upon the an- cient Yeomen of the Guard from the fact that rations of beef were regularly served out to them when on duty. The names of the differ- ent towers, gates, etc., are now indicated by placards, and the most interesting objects in the armouries also bear inscriptions. The Guides to the Tower {Id. and 6f/.; the latter by W. J. Loftie) are almost un- necessary, except to those who take a special interest in old armour. To the left of the entrance, opposite the Ticket Office, is a Turkish cannon, presented by Sultan Abdul Medjed Khan in 1857. A stone bridge, flanked by two towers {^Middle Tower and By- ward Toiver), leads across the moat (which can still be flooded by the garrison) into the Outer Bail or anterior court. On the left is tbe Bell Tower (PI. 4), adjacent to which is a narrow passage, leading round the fortifications within the outer wall. Farther on, to the right, is the Traitors' Gate (PI. 6), a double gateway on the Thames, by which state-prisoners were formerly admitted to the Tow- er; above it is St. Thomas's Tower (PI. 5). A gateway opposite leads under the Bloody Tower (p. 122) to the Inner Bail. In the centre of this court, upon slightly rising ground, stands the square 8. THE TOWER. 119 120 8. THE TOWER. *White Tower, or Keep, the most ancient part of tlie fortress, erected by William the Conqueror in 1078, on a site previously occupied by two bastions built by King Alfred in 885 (perhaps on a Roman foundation; comp. p. 118). It measures 116ft. from N. to S. and 96 ft. from E. to W. , and is 92 ft. high. The walls are 13-15 ft. thicks, and are surmounted with turrets at the angles. The armoury and military stores to the S. were removed in 1882-3, so as to leave an unimpeded view of this ancient keep. Among the many important scenes enacted in this tower may be mentioned the abdication of Richard II. in favour of Henry of Bolingbroke in 1399 ; and it was here that Prince James of Scotland was imprisoned in 1405. We first ascend a staircase passing through the wall of the White Tower (15 ft. thick). It was under this staircase that the bones of the two young princes murdered by their uncle Richard III. (see p. 123) were found. On the first floor are two apartments, said to have been those in which Sir Walter Raleigh was confined and wrote his His- tory of the World (1605-17 ; closed). The '^Chapel of St. John, on the second floor, with its massive pillars and cubical capitals, its wide triforium, its apse borne by stilted round arches (somewhat re- sembling those of St. Bartholomew's, p. 95), and its barrel-vaulted ceiling, is one of the finest and best-preserved specimens of Nor- man architecture in England. Adjacent is the Banqueting Hall, which contains some stands of arms , a valuable cannon cast at Malta in 1773 (with exquisite reliefs on the barrel), two chased brass guns made for the Duke of Gloucester, son of Queen Anne, who died in 1700 at the age of eleven, etc. The walls and ceilings are adorned with trophies of arms , skilfully arranged in the form of stars, flowers, coats-of-arms, and the like. On the upper floor is the Council Chamber, in which the abdication of Richard II. took place. This and the adjoining room contain the *Collection of old armour, formerly in the so-called Horse Ar- moury, which, though not equal to the best Continental collections of the kind, is yet of great value and interest. The large stands on both sides of the central passage of the Council Chamber are occupied by a series of 22 equestrian figures in full equipment, as well as numerous figures on foot, affording a faithful picture, in chronolo- gical order, of English war-array from the time of Edward I. (1272) down to that of James II. (1688). In the Norman period armour consisted either of leather, cut into small pieces like the scales of a fish, or of flat rings of steel sewn on to leather. Chain mail was introduced from the East in the time of Henry III. (1216-1272). Plates for the arms and legs were introduced in the reign of Edward II. (1307-1327), and complete suits of plate armour came into use under Henry V. (1413-22). The glass-cases contain various smaller objects of interest. By the N. wall is an equestrian figure of Queen Elizabeth. Suit Oe armour (shirt of mail), dating from the time of Edward I. (r27'2-1307). Suij of the time of Henry VI. (1422-61j. Tournament suit of the time of Ed , 8. THE TOWER. 121 ward IV. (14G1-83) ; adjacent a knight's suit of the time of Richard III. (1483-85J, worn by the Marquis of Waterford at the Eglinton Tuurnament in 1839. Suit of Burgundian armour, Henry VII. (1485-1509); adjacent a second suit of the same period. Suit of richly damascened armour, worn by Henry VIII. (1509-47j. Suit worn by Charles Brandon, Duke of Sufl'olk (1520). Suit of Edward Clinton, Earl of Lincoln (153.5). Brown suit, with the arms of Burgundy and Granada, Edward VI. (1547-53). Suit of heavy armour of the time of Queen Mary, said to have belonged to Francis Hastings , Earl of Huntingdon (1555)." Suit actually worn by Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester (1580), the favourite of Queen Elizabeth; the armour bears his initials and crest. — Magnificent suit, of German workmanship, said to have been presented by the Emperor Maximilian to Henry VIII. on his marriage with Catharine of Arragon. Among the numerous ornaments inlaid in gold, the rose and pomegranate, the badges of Henry and Catharine, are of frequent recurrence ; the other cognisances of Henry, the portcullis, fleur-de-lys, and dragon, and the initials of the royal pair connected by a true-lover's knot, also appear. On the armour of the horse are engraved scenes of martyrdom. — Suit of Sir Henry Lee, Master of the Armouries to Queen Elizabeth (1570). Suit of Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex, worn by the King's champion at the coronation of George I. Tournament suit, James I. (1605). Plain suit of armour of the same period. Suit of armour that was worn by Charles I. Suit, richly inlaid with gold, belonging to Henry, Prince of Wales (1612), the eldest son of James I. Beside it, Charles I., as Prince of Wales, on foot, with a page bearing the chanfrun or head-piece of the horse-armour. Full suit of plate armour, dating from the first half of the 17th century. Fine suit of Italian armour, said to have belonged to Count Oddi of Padua (1650; unmounted figure). Suit of bright armour, studded with brass. Pikemen of the 17th century. Suit of George Monk, Duke of Albemarle (1669). Suit of knight of the time of Charles I. The mounted figure at the S. side of the room wears a slight suit of armour that belonged to James II. (1685), after whose time armour was rarely worn. Interspersed among the equestrian figures are numerous weapons of the periods illustrated by the suits of armour; instruments of torture; the head-piece with ram's horns of the court fool of Henry VIII.; weapons used by the rebels at Sedgemoor ; assegais from Cafl'raria; two drums taken at Blenheim; execution-axe of the King of Oude; arbalest or cross- bow; ancient matchlocks and fowling-pieces, some of them breech-loaders; Chinese arms; chain-mail of the Norman period: arms and armour from China, Persia, Japan, and Africa. Near the S. side is the bbjck on which Lord Lovat, the last person beheaded in England, sufl'ered the penalty of high treason on Tower Hill in 1747 ; and a little farther on is a heading- axe, said to be that by which the Earl of Essex was decapitated. The glass-cases contain Etruscan, Roman, British, Anglo-Saxon, and other arms and armour; a complete suit of ancient Greek armour, dis- covered in a tomb at Cumse; a spear-head found on the plain of Marathon; a very interesting collection of old weapons, ancient and Norman helmets, early fire-arms, etc.; two English long-bows of yew, recovered in 1841 from the wreck of the Mary Rose, after having been submerged for almost 300 years; a model of the Tower; Indian battle-axes, guns, and accoutre- ments ; scimitar with jade hilt; sword with hilt of lapis lazuli; a bit of leather scale-armour; revolvers of the 16-17th cent., with beautifully inlaid stocks; Asiatic suits of armour; sword, helmet, and saddle of Tippo Sahib, Sultan of Mysore, captured at Seringapatam in 1799; helmet brought from Otaheite by Capt. Cook in 1774. The smaller room to the E. of the Council Chamber contains ancient and modern armour of all kinds (Oriental, European, etc.). In glass-cases here are the uniform worn by the Duke of Wellington as Constable ofthe Tower, and the cloak on which General Wolfe died before Quebec in li59. At the fout of the staircase by which we leave the White Tower are some fragments of the old State Barge of the Master-General of the Ord- nance (broken up in 1859). with the arms of the Duke of Marlborough and other decorations in carved and gilded oak. 122 8. THE TOWER. Outside tlie White Tower is an interesting collection of old cannon, some of very heavy calibre, chiefly of the time of Henry VIII., but one going back to the reign of Henry VI. (1422-61). The large modern buildings to the N. of the White Tower are the Wellington or Waterloo Barracks, erected in 1845 on the site of the Grand Storehouse and Small Armoury, which had been de- stroyed by fire in 1841. The armoury at the time of the confla- gration contained 150,000 stand of arms. The Crown Jewels, or Regalia, formerly kept in the building erected in 1842 at the N.E. corner of the fortress, are now in the Record or Wakefield Tower (see below). During the confusion that prevailed after the execution of Charles I. the royal ornaments and part of the Regalia , including the ancient crown of King Edward, were sold. The crowns and jewels made to replace these after the Restoration retain the ancient names. The Regalia now consist of the following articles, which are preserved in a glass-case, protected by a strong iron cage : — St. Edward's Crown, executed for the coronation of Charles II., and used at all subsequent coronations. This was the crown stolen in 1671 by Col. Blood and his accomplices, who overpowered and gagged the keeper. The bold robbers, however, did not succeed in escaping with their booty. Queen Victoria's Crown, made in 1838, a masterpiece of the modern goldsmith's art. It is adorned with no fewer than 2783 dia- monds ; the large ruby in front , said to have been given to the Black Prince in 1367 by Don Pedro of Castile, was worn by Henry V. on his hel- met at the battle of Agincourt. It also contains a magnificent sapphire. The Prince of Wales''s Crown, of pure gold, without precious stones. The Queen Consorfs Crown, of gold, set with jewels. The Queen's Crown, a golden circlet, embellished with diamonds and pearls, made for Queen Maria d'Este, wife of James II. ^7. Edward's Stajlf, made of gold, 41/2 ft. long and about 901bs. in weight. The orb at the top is said to contain a piece of the true cross. The Royal Sceptre with the Cross, 2 ft. 9in. long, richly adorned with precious stones. The Sceptre of the Dove., or Rod of Equity. Above the orb is a dove with outspread wings. Queen Victo- ria's Sceptre, with richly gemmed cross. The Ivory Sceptre of Queen Maria d'Este, surmounted by a dove of white onyx. The Sceptre of Queen Mary , wife of William III. The Orbs of the King and Queen. Model of the AToA-i-A^oor (Mountain of Light), one of the largest diamonds known, weighing 162 carats. The original, now at Windsor Castle, was formerly in the possession of Runjeet Singh, Rajah of Lahore, and came into the hands of the English in 1849, on their conquest of the Punjab. The Curtana, or pointless Sword of Mercy. The Swords of Justice. The Coro- nation Bracelets. The Royal Spurs. The Coronation Oil Vessel or Ampulla, in the form of an eagle. The Spoon belonging to the ampulla, thought to be the only relic of the ancient regalia. The Salt Cellar of State, in the form of a model of the White Tower. The silver Baptismal Font for the royal children. A silver Wine Fountain given by the Corporation of Plymouth to Charles II. Gold Basin used in the distribution of the Queen's alms on Maundy Thursday (see p. 182). The cases at the side contain the insignia of the Orders of the Bath, Garter, Thistle, St. Michael and St. George, and Star of India; also the Victoria Cross. The total value of the Regalia is estimated at 3,(X»O,OO0i. The twelve Towers of the Inner Ward, at one time all used as prisons, were afterwards employed in part for the custody of the state archives. The names of several of them are indissolubly as- sociated with many dark and painful memories. In the Bloody Tower 8. THE TOWER. 123 (PL 7) the sons of Edward IV. are said to have been murdered, by order of Richard III. (comp. pp 120, 210); in the Bell Tower (PL 4) the Princess Elizabeth was confined by her sister Queen Mary 5 Lady Jane Grey is said to have been imprisoned in Brick Tower (PL 12) ; Lord Guildford Dudley , husband of Lady Jane Grey, was confined, with his father and brothers, in Beauchamp Tower {V\. 8); in the Bowyer Tower (PL 11), the Duke of Cla- rence, brother of Edward IV., is popularly supposed to have been drowned in a butt of malmsey; and Henry VI. was commonly be- lieved to have been murdered in Record (Wakefield) Tower (PL 16). The Salt Tower (PL 15) contains a curious drawing of the zodiac, by Hugh Draper of Bristol, who was confined here in 1561 on a charge of sorcery. — The Beauchamp Tower, built in 1199-1216, consists of two stories , which are reached by a narrow winding staircase. The walls of the room on the first floor are covered with inscriptions by former prisoners, including those of the Dudley family. That of John Dudley, Earl of Warwick, eldest brother of Lord Guildford Dudley, is on the right side of the fire-place, and is a well executed family coat-of-arms with the following lines : — 'Yow that these beasts do wel behold and se, May deme with ease wherefore here made they be Withe borders wherein 4 brothers' names who list to serche the grovnd". Near the recess in the N.W. corner is the word Iane (repeated in the window), supposed to represent the signature of Lady Jane Grey as queen , but not inscribed by herself. Above the fire-place is a Latin inscription left by Philip Howard, Earl of Arundel, eldest son of the Duke of Norfolk who was beheaded in Lo72 for aspiring to the hand of Mary, Queen of Scots. The inscriptions in the upper chamber are less interesting. At the N.W. corner of the fortress rises the chapel of St. Peter AD ViNCULA (PL 17; interior not shown ), erected by Edward I. on the site of a still older church, re-erected by Edward III., altered by Henry Vlll. , and restored in 1877. Adjoining it is a small burial-ground. 'In truth, there is no sadder spot on earth than this little cemetery. Death is there associated, not, as in Westminster Abbey and St. Pauls, with genius and virtue , with public veneration and with imperishable renown; not, as in our humblest churches and churchyards, with every- thing that is most endearing in social and domestic charities; but with whatever is darkest in human nature and in human destiny, with the savage triumph of implacable enemies, with the inconstancy, the ingrat- itude, the cowardice of friends, with all the miseries of fallen greatness and of blighted fame". — Macaulay . The following celebrated persons are buried in this chapel : Sir Thomas More, beheaded 1535 ; Queen Anne Boleyn, beheaded 1536 ; Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex, beheaded 1540 ; Margaret Pole, Countess of Salisbury, beheaded 1541 ; Queen Catharine How- ard, beheaded 1542 ; Lord Admiral Seymour of Sudeley, beheaded 1549 ; Lord Somerset, the Protector, beheaded 1552; John Dudley, 124 8. TRINITY HOUSE. Earl of Warwick and Duke of Northumberland , beheaded 1553 ; Lady Jane Grey and her husband, Lord Guildford Dudley, beheaded 1554; Robert Devereux , Earl of Essex, beheaded 1601; Sir Thomas Overbury, poisoned in the Tower in 1613 ; Sir John Eliot, died as a prisoner in the Tower 1632; James Fitzroy, Duke of Mon- mouth, beheaded 1685 ; Simon, Lord Eraser of Lovat, beheaded 1747. The executions took place in the Tower itself only in the cases of Anne Boleyn, Catharine Howard, Lady Jane Grey, and De- vereux, Earl of Essex; in all the other instances the prisoners w^ere beheaded at the public place of execution on Tower Hill (see below). The list of those who were confined for a longer or shorter period in the Tower comprises a great number of other celebrated persons : JohnBaliol, King of Scotland, 1296; William Wallace, the Scottish patriot, 1305; David Bruce, King of Scotland, 1347; King John of France (taken prisoner at Poitiers, 1357) ; Duke of Orleans, father of Louis XII. of France, 1415; Lord Cobham , the most distin- guished of the Lollards (burned as a heretic at St. Giles in the Fields, 1416) ; King Henry VI. (who is said to have been murdered in the Wakefield Tower by the Duke of Gloucester, 1471); Anne Askew (tortured in the Tower, and burned in Smithfleld as a heretic, 1546); Archbishop Cranmer , 1553; Sir Thomas Wyatt (beheaded on Tower Hill in 1554) ; Earl of Southampton, Shak- speare's patron, 1562; Sir Walter Raleigh (seep. 120; beheaded at Westminster in 1618); Earl of Strafford (beheaded 1641); Archbishop Laud (beheaded 1643) ; Viscount Stafford (beheaded 1680) ; Lord William Russell (beheaded 1683) ; Lord Chancellor Jeffreys, 1688; Duke of Marlborough, 1692, etc. On Tower Hill, N.W. of the Tower, formerly stood the scaffold for the execution of traitors (see above). William Penn (baptised 23rd Oct., 1644, in All Hallows, Great Tower Street) was born, and Otway , the poet , died on Tower Hill, and here too Sir Walter Raleigh's wife lodged while her unfortunate husband languished in the Tower. On the N. side rises Trinity House, a plain building, erected in 1793 from designs by Wyatt, the facade of which is embellished with the arms of the corporation, medallion portraits of George III. and Queen Charlotte, and several emblems of navigation. This building is the property of 'The Master, Wardens, and Assis- tants of the Guild, Fraternity, or Brotherhood, ofthe most glorious and undividable Trinity', a company founded by Sir Thomas Spert in 1515, and incorporated by Henry VIII. in 1529. The society consists of a Master, Deputy Master, 31 Elder Brethren, and an unrestricted number of Younger Brethren , and was founded with a view to the promotion and encouragement of English navigation. Its rights and duties, which have been defined by various acts of parliament, com- prise the regulation and management of lighthouses and buoys round the British coast , and the appointment and licensing of a body of efficient pilots. Two elder brethren of Trinity House assist 8. THE MINT. 125 the Admiralty in deciding all cases relating to collisions at sea. Its surplus funds are devoted to charitable objects connected with sailors. The interior of Trinity House contains busts of Admirals St. Vincent, Howe, Duncan, and Nelson; and portraits of James I. and his consort Anne of Denmark, James II.. and Sir Francis Drake. There is also a large picture of several Elder Brethren, by Gains- borough. Many visitors will be interested in the model-chamber, containing a collection of models and designs of lighthouses and life-boats. The Duke of Edinburgh, second son of Queen Victoria, is the present Master of Trinity House, while the Prince of Wales is a 'Younger Brother". Mr, W. E. Gladstone is an 'Elder Brother'. The annual income of Trinity House is said to be above 300,000i. At the end of Great Tower Street, to the W. of the Tower, is the church of AIL Hallows. Barking, founded by the nuns of Barking Abbey, and containing some fine brasses. Archbishop Laud was buried in the graveyard after his execution on Tower Hall (1643), but his body was afterwards removed to the chapel of St. John's College, Oxford, of which he was an alumnus. The parish register records the baptism of William Penn (Oct. '23rd, 1644). The Czar's Head.1 opposite the church, is said to occupy the site of a tavern frequented by Peter the Great (see p. 141). On the E. side of Tower Hill stands the Eoyal Mint, erected in 1811, from designs by Johnson and Smirke, on the site of the old Cistercian Abbey of St. Mary of the Graces, and so extensively enlarged in 1881-82 as to be practically a new building. The Mastership of the Mint (an office abolished in 1869) was once held by Sir Isaac Newton (1699-1727) and Sir John F. W. Herschel (1850-55). Permission to visit the Mint is given for a fixed day by the Deputy-Master of the Mint, on a written application stating the number and addresses of the intending visitors. The various processes of coining are extremely interesting, and the machinery used is of a most ingenious character. In 1882 fourteen improved presses were introduced, each of which can stamp and mill 120 coins per minute. The cases in the waiting-room contain coins and commemorative medals, including specimens of Maundy money, and gold pieces of '21. and bl., which were never brought into circulation. Among the other objects of interest is a skeleton cube, each side of which is 33^/8 i^- in length, showing the size of a mass of stand- ard gold worth 1,000,000L In 1888 the value of the monev coined at the Mint was 3,363.524^., including 2.277,424 sovereigns; 1.428,787 half-crowns, value 178.598 Z. ; 1,547,540 florins, value 154.754;.: 4,526.840 shillings, value 226.942 r : 4,597.680 sixpences, value 104.942?. ; 522.640 threepennies, value 6,533? ; 5.124,960 pence, value 21.354?; 6,814.080 half-pence, value 14,196?.; and 1,8S6.400 farthings, value 1965?. In the ten vears 1879-88 there were coined here 9.217,671 sovereigns. 10,347,228 half-sovereigns, 15.a«0,848 half-crowns, 16,915,140 florins. 40.621, 6S0 shillings, etc. Of copper or bronze coins, most of which were made by contract at Birmingham, about 164.000.000 were issued in the same decade. The total value of the coins issued by the Slint between 1817 and 18S0 was 246,000.0etween the present chapel and the river, but has entirely disappeared. At the Savoy, in the time of Cromwell, the Independents adopted a Confession of Faith , and here the celebrated 'Savoy Con- ference' for the revision of the Prayer Book was held , when Baxter, Calamy, and others represented the Nonconformists. The German chapel which used to stand contiguous to the Savoy Chapel was removed in widening Savoy Street, which now forms a thoroughfare to the Thames Embankment The French Protestants who conformed to the English church had a chapel here from the time of Charles II. till 1737. See Memorials of (he Savov, bv the Rev. W. J. Loftie (MacMillan; 1878). At No. 13 Cecil Street, to the left, Sir W. Congreve (d. 1828"), the inventor of the Congreve Rocket, resided and made his experi- ments , firing the rockets across the Thames. Near the corner of the Strand and Cecil Street is the Savoy Theatre (p. 41). A little to the N. of this part of the Strand lies Covent Garden Market (p. 180). On the right, between Southampton Street and Bedford Street, is the Vaudeville Theatre fp. 41"); beyond it, the Royal Adelphi Theatre (p. 41). In Bedford Street is the new store of the Civil Service Supply Association (p. 27). To the S. of the Strand, in John Street, Adelphi (approached through Adam Street, opposite the Adelphi Theatre), rises the build- ing of the Society of Arts (PI. R, 30 ; //), an association established in 1754 for the encouragement of arts, manufactures, and commerce, which took a prominent part in promoting the Exhibitions of 1851 and 1862. Tbe large hall (open daily, 10-4, except Wednesdays and Saturdays) contains six paintings by Barry (1777-83), representing the progress of civilisation. No. 14 in the same street is the head- quarters of the Eoyal National Life Boat Institution, founded in 1824 and supported entirely by voluntary contributions. This society now possesses a fleet of about 300 life-boats stationed round the British coasts , and in 1888 was instrumental in saving 800 lives and 26 vessels. The total number of lives saved through the agency of the Institution from its foundation down to 1889 was above 34,000. The expenditure of the society in 1888 was 53.270i. The average cost of establishing a life-boat station 13. TRAFALGAR SQUARE. I45 is 1050L, and the animal expense of maintaining it ~0l. In the middle of Adelphi Terrace , parallel with John Street on the S., David Garrick died in 1779. On the right, where King William Street joins the Strand, stands the Charing Cross Hospital; and in King William Street is the Ophthalmic Hospital. A little farther on, in the Strand, on the right hand, is the Lowther Arcade fp. 26 ), and on the left is Coutts's Bank, a very noted firm, at which the royal family has hanked for nearly 200 years. At the W. end of the Strand, on the left, is Charing Cross Station (with a large Hotel, p. 7), the West End terminus of the South-Eastern Railway fp. 33), built by Barry on the site of Hungerford Market, where the mansion of Sir Edward Hungerford stood until it was burned down in 1669. In front of it stands a mod- ern copy of Eleanor s Cross, a Gothic monument erected in 1291 by Edward I. at Charing Cross, on the spot where the coffin of his con- sort was set down during its last halt on the way to Westminster Abbey. The original was removed by order of Parliament in 1647. The river is here crossed by the Charing Cross Railway Bridge, on each side of which is a foot-way ffreed from toll in 1878). — To the E. of the station is Mlliers Street, which descends to the Em- bankment Gardens (p. 114) and to the Charing Cross Station (-p. 36) of the Metropolitan Railway. The * Watergate, situated close by, is an interesting relic of York House, a palace begun by Inigo Jones for George Villiers , the favourite of James I. , and first Duke of Buckingham. — Benjamin Franklin lived at No. 7 Craven Street (denoted by a memorial tablet), to the W. of the station. 13. Trafalgar Square. Nelson Column. St. Martin's in the Fields. Charing Cross. *TrafaIgar Square (PI. R, 26; //, iF), one of the finest open places in London and a great centre of attraction, is, so to speak, dedicated to Lord Nelson, and commemorates his glorious death at the battle of Trafalgar (22nd Oct., 1805), gained by the English fleet over the combined armaments of France and Spain. By this victory Na- poleon's purpose of invadingEngland was frustrated. The ambitious Emperor had assembled at Boulogne an army of 172,000 infantry and 9000 cavalry, and also 2413 transports to convey his soldiers to England, but his fleet, which he had been building for many years at an enormous cost, and which was to have covered his passage of the Channel, was destroyed by Nelson at this famous battle. The Admiral is, therefore, justly revered as the saviour of his country. In the centre of the square rises the massive granite Column, 145 ft. in height, to the memory of the hero. It is a copy of one of the Corinthian columns of the temple of Mars Ultor, the avenging god of war, at Rome, and is crowned with a Statue of TXelson, by Baily , 17 ft. in height. The pedestal is adorned with Baedekek, Londou. TtU Edit. 10 146 13. ST. MARTIN'S IN THE FIELD'S. reliefs in bronze, cast with the metal of captured French cannon. On the N. face is a scene from the battle of Aboukir (1798) ; Nel- son, wounded in the head, declines to be assisted out of his turn by a surgeon who has been dressing the wounds of a common sailor. On the E. side is the battle of Copenhagen (1801) ; Nelson is re- presented as sealing upon a cannon the treaty of peace with the conquered Danes. On the S.is the death of Nelson at Trafalgar {22nd Oct., 1805); beside the dying hero is Captain Hardy, com- mander of the Admiral's flag-ship. Below is Nelson's last com- mand: 'England expects every man will do his duty'. On the W. side is a representation of Nelson receiving the sword of the Span- ish commander after the battle of St. Vincent (1797). — Four colossal bronze lions , modelled by Sir Edwin Landseer (d. 1871) in 1867, couch upon pedestals running out from the column in the form of a cross. — The monument was erected in 1843 by voluntary con- tributions at a total cost of about 45,000Z. Towards the N. side of the square, which is paved with asphalt, are two fountains. A Statue of Sir Henry Havelock, the deliverer of Lucknow (d. 1857), by Behnes, stands on the E. (Strand) side of the Nelson Column, and a Statue of Sir Charles James Napier, the conqueror of Scinde (d. 1853), by Adams, on the other. The N.E. corner of the square is occupied by an Equestrian Statue of George I V. , in bronze by Chantrey. Between the fountains is a Statue of Gen- eral Gordon (killed at Khartoum in 1885), by Hamo Thorneycroft, erected in 1888. On the terrace on the N. side of the square rises the National Gallery (see next page). Near it, on the E., is the church of St. Martin in the Fields, with a noble Grecian portico, erected in 1721-26 by Gibbs, on the site of an earlier church, and containing a few uninteresting tombs. Nell Gwynne (d. 1687), Farquhar the dramatist (d. 1707), Roubiliac the sculptor (d. 1762), and James Smith (d. 1839), one of the authors of 'Rejected Addresses', were buried in the churchyard. Adjoining Morley's Hotel, on the E. side of the square, is the build- ing of the Royal Hwnane Society, founded In 1774 for the rescue of drowning persons. This valuable society possesses a model house on the N. bank of the Serpentine in Hyde Park, containing models of the best appliances for saving life, and apparatus for aiding ba- thers and skaters who may be in danger. It also awards prizes and medals to persons who have saved others from drowning. Down to 1874 Northumberland House, the noble mansion of the Duke of Northumberland, with the lion of the Percies high above the gates, rose on the S.E. side of Trafalgar Square. It was purchas- ed in 1873 by the Metropolitan Board of Works for 497,000i., and was removed to make way for Northumberland Avenue, a broad new street from Charing Cross to the Thames Embankment (comp. p. 113). The Grand Hotel (p. 7) occupies part of the site. Two other 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 147 large hotels, the Hotel M Strop ole and the Hotel Victoria^ have been built on the opposite side of Northumberland Avenue. Next door to the Grand Hotel is the Constitutional Club, a handsome building of red and yellow terracotta in the style of the German Renaissance, erected in 1886. At the corner of Northumberland Avenue and Whitehall Place, facing the Thames, is the magnificent new build- ing of the National Liberal Club , opened in 1887. One of the most attractive features of this imposing edifice is the spacious flagged terrace overlooking the Embankment Gardens and the river. On the W. side of Trafalgar Square, between Cockspur Street and Pall Mall East, is the Union Club (p. 75], adjoining which is the Royal College of Physicians, built by Smirke in 1825, and containing a number of portraits and busts of celebrated London physicians. Charing Cross (PI. R,26, and /F; probably so called from the village of Cherringe which stood here in the 13th cent. ), on the S. side of Trafalgar Square, between the Strand and Whitehall, is the principal point of intersection of the omnibus lines of the West End, and the centre of the 4 and 12 miles circles on the Post Office Di- rectory Map. The Equestrian Statue of Charles I. , by Le Sueur, which stands here, is remarkable for the vicissitudes it has undergone. It was cast in 1633, but had not yet been erected when the Civil War broke out. It was then sold by the Parliament to a brazier, named John Rivet, for the purpose of being melted down, and this worthy sold pretended fragments of it both to friends and foes of the Stuarts. At the Restoration, however, the statue was produced uninjured, and in 1674 it was erected on the spot where Eleanors Cross (p. 145) had stood down to 1647. In Hartshorn Lane, an adjoining street , Ben Jonson , when a boy, once lived with his mother and her second husband, a bricklayer. Among the many street improvements which the Metropolitan Board of Works accomplished before its supersession by the County Council (see p. 69) is Charing Cross Road, a great and much needed thoroughfare from Charing Cross to Tottenham Court Road, cutting through a number of low streets and alleys to the N. of St. Martin's Church. Shaftesbury Avenue, another wide street opened in 1886, runs from Regent Street to meet the first- mentioned thoroughfare at Cambridge Circus, and is prolonged to New Ox- ford Street opposite Hart Street, Bloomsbury. 14. The National Gallery. Among the buildings round Trafalgar Square the principal in point of size, although perhaps not in architectural merit, is the **National Gallery (PI. R, 26; //), situated on a terrace on the N. side, and erected in 1832-38, at an original costof 96,000^., on the siteof the old King's Mews. The building, designed by Wiffcm.?, is in the Grecian style, and has a fac-ade 460 ft. in length. The Gallery was considerably altered and enlarged in 1860; an extensive ad- 10* 148 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. ditiou (including the central octagon) was made by Mr. E. M. Barry in 1876; and five other rooms, including a gallery 85 ft. long, were opened in 1887. The back of the National Gallery is very plain and unfinished-looking, but the new National Portrait Gallery (see p. 129) is to be erected here, with a fa(;:ade towards Charing Cross Road. The central staircase leading to the new rooms is in- tended to be used by entering visitors , while the old staircases, to the right and left, serve as exits. The nucleus of the Gallery, which was formed by Act of Parliament in 1824, consisted solely of the Angerstein collection of 38 pictures. It has, however, been rapidly and greatly extended hy means of donations, legacies , and purchases, and is now composed of some 1300 pictures, about ilOO of which are exhibited in the 22 rooms of the Gallery, while the others are lent to provincial collections. Amonj: the most important additions have been the collections presented or bequeathed by Robert Vernon (1847), T. M. W. Turner (1856), and Wynn Ellis (1876); and the Peel collection, bought in 1871. For a long period part of the building was occupied by the Royal Academy of Arts, which, however, was removed to Burlington House (p. 220) in 18G9. The National Collection has since been wholly re-arranged, and is now entirely under f>ne roof. (This is of course quite distinct from the national collections at South Kensington.) — In 18"^8 the National Gallery was visited on the free days by 550,817 persons, being a daily average of 2635, and on the students' days by 47,934 persons, besides 26,127 students. From the number of artists represented, the collection in thfe National Gallery is exceedingly valuable to students of the history of art. The older Italian masters are especially important. The catalogues prepared by Mr. Wornum (d. 1877), the late keeper of the Gallery, and re-issued with corrections and additions by Sir F. W. Burton in 1S89 (Foreign Schools 1«., abridgment 6d. ; British School 6d.), comprise short biographies of the dillcrent artists. Mr. E. T. Cook's 'Popular Handbook to the National Gal- lery' (MacMillan & Co., 1888) includes an interesting collection of notes on the pictures by Mr. Ruskin and others. See also Dr. J. P. Richter's 'Ital- ian Art in the National Gallery' (1883). Each picture is inscribed with the name of the painter, the year of his birlh and death, the school to which he belongs, and the subject represented. The present director is Sir F. W. Burton., and the keeper and secretary is Mr. Charles Easllake. — Photographs of the paintings, by Signor Morelli, are sold in the gallery at prices ranging from l.s. to lOs. Those taken by Bravn <(' Ct'e., of Dornach and Paris, and by the Berlin Phofogmphic Go. are, however, better; the former (6-l2s.) may be obtained at the Autotype Fine Art Gallery, 74 New Oxford Street, while the latter (Is.Grf. each, 15«. per dozen) are sold by J. Gerson, 5 Rathbone Place, Oxford Street. The Gallery is open to the public all the year, free of charge, on Mon., Tues., Wed., and Sat., from 10 to 4, 5, 6, or 7 according to the season; on Thurs. and Frid. (students' days), after 11 o'clock, on payment of 6d. It is closed for cleaning on the Thursday, Fri- day, and .Saturday before Easter Sunday. Sticks and umbrellas are left at the entrance (no charge). The addition of the new rooms opened in 1887 has enabled the authorities of the Gallery to arrange the pictures in schools, ad- hering as closely as possible to a chronological order. The main staircase facing us as we enter ascends to Room I., in which begins the series of Italian works. The staircase to the left leads to the Modern British Schools; that on the right to the Older British and the French Schools. 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 149 The Hall contains a marble statue of Sir David Wilkie (d. 1841), with his palette let into the pedestal, hy Joseph; busts of the paint- ers W. Mulready (d. 1863) and Th. Stothard (d. 1834), by Weekes; and busts of Samuel Johnson (by Baily, after Nollekens), Canning (also by Baily^ after NolLekens^ Bewick (by Gibson), and Newton (by Baily, after RoubiUac). On the walls are two large landscapes with cattle by James Ward^ the Battle of the Borodino by Jones, a forest-scene by SaLvator Rosa, and a cast of a bust of Mantegna by Spcrandio. At the top of the staircase to the right are busts of Wellington by .\ollekens and Scott by Chantrey. To the left is a staircase descending to a room containing Watercolour Drmcings from paintings by early Italian and other masters, published and lent by the Arundel Society. Other rooms contain copies of paintings by Velazquez at Madrid and by Rembrandt at St. Petersburg. To the right is a flight of steps (with a bronze bust of Napoleon at the tup) descending to the collection of Turner^s Water- Colours (catalogue by Ruskin is.). Two adjoining rooms contain other water-colours (Be Winf., Ca'lermole, etc.)- monochrome paintings by Rubens and Va7i Dyck. crayon studies by Gainsborough . drawings by Wm. Blake., etc. Another room, through which we pass to reach the Turner Collection, contains several paintings belonging to the National Portrait Gallery (p. 129). Among these are two large paintings: The House of Commons in 1793, by Karl Anton Hickel (presented by the Emp. of Austria in 1S85), and a fine *Work by Marcus Gheeraedts, representing a group of eleven statesmen, assembled at Somerset House in 16u4 to ratify a commercial treaty between England, Spain, and the Nether- lands. Among the single portraits, which include specimens oiLely. Gains- borough , Dobson , Rich- »«ojjy Domenico Veneziano (d. 1461), and nine interesting Greek portraits of the 2nd and 3rd cent, from mummies found in the Fayoum. [A mummy with a portrait of this kind may be seen at the British Museum; p. 251.] Room I., a handsome new room, lighted from above, is devoted to the Tuscan School. Above the doors are bronze medallions of Rubens, Titian, and Rembrandt. — To the left: 1150. Attributed to Pontormo {Carucci; d. 1557), Portrait; 21. Cristofano Allori (1577-1621), Portrait; *592. Ascribed to Filippino Lippi, Adoration of the Magi (more probably a masterpiece of Botticelli, but freely retouched); 727. Pesellino (early Florentine School; d. 1457), Trin- ita, the largest work of this rare master; *1282. Jacopo Chimenti da Empoli (1554-1640), San Zenobio restoring a dead child to life; 1143. Ridolfo Ghirlandaj (Flovence, follower of Leon, da Vinci; d. 1561), Procession to Mt. Calvary; 17. A. del Sarto (the greatest Florentine colourist; d. 1531), Holy Family; 809. Ascribed to Michael Angela (d. 1564 ; probably by Granacci), Madonna and Infant Christ, with John the Baptist and angels (in tempera, on wood ; unfinished) ; 790. Michael Angelo , Entombment (unfinished and youthful work, very primitive in colouring). *296. A. Pollajuolo (?, Florentine painter, sculptor, and en- graver; d. 1498), Virgin adoring the Infant Christ. This painting is executed with great carefulness, but the conception of the forms and proportions is hardly worthy of a master of the first rank, such as Verrocchio,to whom some critics assign the work. The utmost that we can assert with safety is that it is by a Florentine master. 704. Bronzino, Cosimo de^ Medici; 1194. Marcello Venusti (d. ca. 1570), Jesus expelling the money-changers from the Temple; 652. Francesco Rossi (1510-63), Charity; 1227. Venusti, Holy Family; *593. Lorenzo di Credi (Florence, pupil of Verrocchio at the same time as Leonardo da Vinci ; d. 1537), Madonna and Child. — *292. Pollajuolo, Martyrdom of St. Sebastian. This picture was tlie altarpiece of tlie Pucci chapel, in the church of San Sebastiano de' Servi at Florence, and according to Vasari is the artist's masterpiece. The lower parts have been retouched. 648. Credi, Virgin adoring the Infant (in his best style); 781. School of Verrocchio (?), The archangel Raphael and Tobias ; *293. Filippino Lippi (d. 1504), Madonna and Child, with SS. Jerome and Dominic, a large picture with predelle; 1035. Franciabigio (Florence, follower of A. del Sarto; d. 1524), A Knight of Malta. 1131. Pontormo, Joseph and his Brethren ; according to Vasari, the boy seated on the steps, with a basket, is a portrait of Bronzino. 650. Bronzino, Portrait; 1124. Filippino Lippi, Adoration of the Magi. 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 151 *1093. Leonardo da Vinci (1452-1519), Madonna and Child, with John the Baptist and an angel, an altered replica of 'La Vierge aux Rochers' in the Louvre, bought from the Earl of Suffolk in 1881 for 9000i. (perhaps a copy by a pupil). 670. Bronzino, Knight of St. Stephen; 649. Ascribed to Pon- tormo. Portrait of a boy, in the style of Bronzino •, *690. Andrea del Sarto , Portrait, a masterpiece of chiaroscuro ; 698. Piero di Cosimo (pupil and assistant of Cosimo Rosselli ; d. ca. 1521), Death of Procris, in a beautiful landscape. — 651. Bronzino, Venus, Cupid, Folly, and Time, an allegory, an unpleasant, cold, and stony work. 'Bronzino painted a picture of remarkable beauty, which was sent into France to King Francis. In this picture was pourtrayed a naked Venus together with Cupid, who was kissing her. On the one side were Pleasure and Mirth, with other Powers of Love, and on the other Deceit, Jealousy, and other Passions of Love.' — Vasari. *915. Sandro Botticelli (d. 1510), Mars and Venus; 8. After Michael Angelo, A dream of human life. On a screen: 645. Albertinelli (d. 1515), Madonna and Child; 275. School of Botticelli, Madonna and Child, a circular picture in a line old frame; 928. Pollajuolo, Apollo and Daphne. Koom II. SiEXESE School. To the left: 1109. Buonacorso (14th cent.), Marriage of the Virgin; 1113. P. Lorenzetti (d. 1350), Legendary scene; 247. Matteo di Giovanni da Siena { d. 1495), Ecce Homo; 246. Girolamo del Pacchia (d. after 1535), Madonna and Child; 591. Benozzo Gozzoli (pupil of Fra Angelico ; d. 1498), Rape of Helen : 1108. Early Sienese School, Virgin enthroned, with saints. Duccio di Buoninsegna (founder of the school of Siena; d. about 1339), 1140. Christ healing the blind; 1139. Annunciation. 1199. Florentine School of the 15th cent., Madonna and Child, with John the Baptist and an angel ; 218. Baldassare Peruzzi (Siena ; d. 1537), Adoration of the Magi (portraits of Titian, Raphael, and Michael Angelo) ; 248. School ofFilippo Lippi, Vision of St. Bernard ; 227. Rosselli (d. 1507), St. Jerome. — 283. Benozzo Gozzoli, Virgin and Child enthroned, with saints. 'The original contract for this picture, dated 23d Oct. 1461, is still preserved: it was published in Florence in 1855. The figure of the Vir- gin is in this contract specially directed to be made similar in mode, form, and ornaments to the Virgin Enthroned, in the picture over the high altar of San Marco, Florence, by Fra Giovanni (Angelico) da Fie- sole, and now in the Academy there'. — Catalogue. *663. Fra Angelico (d. 1455), Christ with the banner of the Re- surrection, surrounded by a crowd of saints, martyrs, and Domini- cans, 'so beautiful', says Vasari, 'that they appear to be truly beings of Paradise' ; 586. Pupil of Fiorenzo di Lorenzo , Madonna en- throned. — *566. Duccio di Buoninsegna, Madonna and Child. 'A genuine picture, which illustrates how well the master could vivify Byzantine forms with tender feeling". 1138. Andrea del Castagno (early Florentine School; d. 1457), Cruciflxiou; 582. Fra ^nj^eiico (school-piece), The Magi ; 1155. Matteo di Giovanni, Assumption ; 1147. Arnbrogio Lorenceffj (Siena ; 152 14. NATIONAL CxALLERY. d. ca. 1348), Heads of saints (a fragment of a fresco). VgoUno da Siena (14th cent.), 1188. Betrayal of Christ; 1189. Procession to Calvary. 909. Benvenuto da Siena (c. 1520), Madonna and Child. Boom III. Tuscan Schools. To the left : 782. Botticelli, Ma- donna and Child ; *666. Fra Filippo Lippi (Florence ; d. 1496), An- nunciation, painted like No. 667 for Cosimo de' Medici and marked with his crest; 598. Filippino Lippi, St. Francis in glory, with the stigmata; 916. Botticelli, Venus and Cupid ; *583. Paolo Vccello (Florence; d. 1479), Cavalry engagement, one of the earliest Flo- rentine representations of a secular subject; 1196. Tuscan School, Amor and Castitas; 1230. Domenico Ghirlandajo (1449-94), Portrait of a woman; 103^. Lippi, Adoration of the Magi; b2^. Botticelli^ Young man; no number, Dom. Ghirlandajo, Portrait of a lady ('the lovely Benci' of Longfellow; lent by Mr. Henry Willett). — *1034. Botticelli, The Nativity, to the left Magi, to the right the Shep- herds, in front shepherds embraced by angels. The subject is conceived in a manner highly mystical and symbolical. At the top of the picture is a Greek inscription to the following effect: 'This picture I. Alessandro. painted at the end of the year 1500. in the (troubles) of Italy in the half-time after the time during the fulfilment of the eleventh of St. John in the second vpoe of the Apocalypse, in the loosing of the devil for three years and a half. Afterwards he shall be chained and we shall see him trodden down as in this pict\ire\ 589. Filippo Lippi, Madonna and Child, with an angel. — 1126. Botticelli, Assumption of the Virgin. In the centre of the upper part of the picture is the Virgin, kneeling before the Saviour, while around are cycles or tiers of angels, apostles, saints, and seraphim. Below are the apostles gathered round the tomb of the Virgin, with portraits of the Palmieri, the donors of the altar- piece. The picture was probablv executed by a pupil from a cartoon by Botticelli. 226. Botticelli, Madonna and Child, with John \ke Baptist and angels, with a rose-hedge in the background ('no man has ever yet drawn', says Mr. Ruskin, 'and none is likely to draw for many a day, roses as well as Sandro has drawn them'); *667. Fra Filippo Lippi, SS. John the Baptist, Francis, Lawrence, Cosmas, Damianus, Anthony, and Peter the Martyr, sitting on a marble bench (painted for Cosimo de' Medici 1266-1336). 'No one draws such lilies or such daisies as Lippi, Botticelli beat him afterward in roses, but never in lilies'. — Ruskin. Room IV. Early Italian School. The pictures in this room are mainly of historical interest. Neither Giotto, the chief founder of Italian painting, nor his pupils are represented by authenticated works, but there are several fine works of the 14th century. 'The early efforts of Cimabue and Giotto are the burning messages of prophecy, delivered bv the stammering lips of infants'. — Ruskin. To the left: School of Taddeo Gaddi (d. after 1366), 215. Saints; 216. Baptism of Christ. 594, EmmanucZ (Greek priest, who lived apparently at Venice ; Byzantine School), SS. Cosmas and Da- mianus (one of the earliest pictures in the Gallery in point of ar- tistic development) ; 573-575. Andrea Orcagna (Florentine School, 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 153 master of Fra Angelico ; d. 1376), Three small pictures belonging to the large altarplece. No. 569 ; 276. Ascribed to Giotto (d. 1336), Heads of Apostles; 569. Orcagna, Coronation of the Virgin (large altarplece from the church of San Pietro Maggiore in Florence ; school-piece); 701. Justus of Padua (School of Giotto ; d. 1400), Coronation of the Virgin, dated 1367 (a small triptych, of cheerful, soft, and. well-blended, colouring); 567. Seyna di Buonaventura (Tuscan School; ca. 1310), Crucifixion; 576-578. Orcagna, Three other pictures belonging to No. 569; 580a, 579 a. Terminal panels of 580 and 579 (see below) ; 568. School of Giotto (early Floren- tine ; ca. 1330), Coronation of the Virgin; 579. School of Taddeo Gaddi, Baptism of Christ ; 565. G iov. Cimabiie [h. i9A0- Tuscan School), Madonna and Child enthroned; 581. Spinello Aretino, John the Baptist, with SS. John the Evangelist and James the Less ; 564. Margaritone (d. 1293), Virgin and Child, with scenes from the lives of the saints ; 570-572. Orcagna, Trinity, with angels adoring, belonging to No. 569; 580. Jacopo di Casentino (d. ca. 1390), St. John the Evangelist lifted up into Heaven. Boom V. Schools of Ferrara and Bologxa. — To the left : Cosimo Tura (d. 1498) , 905. Madonna ; 773. St. Jerome in tlie wilderness; 772. Madonna and Child. 597. Marco Zoppo (end of 15th cent.), St. Dominic as Institutor of the Rosary; 82. Mazzolino da Ferrara (1480-1528), Holy Family; 1062. School of Ferrara, Battle. — *1119. Ercole Gran'di di Giulio (Ferrara; d. 1531), Ma- donna enthroned , with John the Baptist and St. William ; the throne is adorned with sculptural panels of Adam and Eve (a masterpiece). — Benvenuto Tisio, surnamed Garofalo (d. 1559), 642. Agony in the Garden ; *81. Vision of St. Augustine ; 170. Holy Family; *671. Madonna and Child enthroned, surrounded by saints. 590. Marco Zoppo, Dead Christ, with John the Baptist and Joseph of Arimathea (lucid in colouring); 770. Giovanni Oriolo (Ferrara; d. after 1461), Leonello d'Este, Marquis of Ferrara (d. 1450) ; 1127 Ercole di Roberto Grandi (d. before 1513), Last Supper. Lorenzo Costa (early School of Ferrara, contemporary of Francia; d. 1535), 895. The Florentine general , Francesco Ferucci; *629. Madonna enthroned, dated 1505. Francesco Francia ( Raiholini, early school of Bologna, also a goldsmith; d. 1517), *179. Virgin enthroned and St. Anne; 180. Piet?t (the lunette of No. 179). These two pictures constituted formerly one altarplece. The com- position is of a very high order, reminding us of Perngino, by whom there is a Pieta very similar to this in Florence. 771. Bono di Ferrara (15th cent.), St. Jerome in the desert; 169. Mazzolino (Ferrara; d. 1530), Holy Family; 638. Francia. Virgin and Child, with two saints; 73. Ercole Grandi, Conversion of St. Paul; 641. Mazzolino, The Woman taken in adultery; 640. Dosso Dossi (Ferrara; d. ca. 1534), Adoration of the Magi; 752. Dalmasio (end of the 14th cent.). Madonna and Child; 669. Orto- 154 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. lano (Ferrara; d. ea. 1525), SS. Sebastian, Rock, and Demetrius, an imitation of Garofalo and Dosso ; 1234. Dosso Dossi, Allegorical group ; 1217. Ercole di Roberto Grandly Israelites gathering manna. Boom VI. Umbbian School. To the left: 912-914. Pinturicchio (_? School of Signorelli), Illustrations of the story of Griselda. Slight in execution, but fresh in conception and skilfully composed. The story of Griselda is the last in Boccaccio's Decameron. Melozzo da Forli (Umhrian school, influenced by Piero della Francesca; d. 1494), 756. Music; 755. Rhetoric (three similar re- presentations at Windsor Castle and at Berlin). 703. Bernardino Pinturicchio (d. 1513), Madonna and Child; 1103. Fiorenzo di Lorenzo (end of 15th cent.), Madonna and saints (lucid colouring) ; 1092. Bernardino Cotignola (ca. 1500), St. Sebastian, with a land- scape in the Flemish style; 249. Lorenzo San Severino (second half of the 15th cent.), Marriage of St. Catharine ; 769. Fra Carno- vale (ca. 1480). St. Michael and the serpent; 1107. Niccolo da Foligno {^Alunno ; end of the 15th cent.), Crucifixion, a triptych ; 1104. Paolo Manni (d. 1544), Annunciation; 702. Vingegno (^An- drea di Luigi; 15th cent.), Madonna; 691. Lo Spagna (first half of the 16th cent.), Ecce Homo; 1051. Umbrian School, Our Lord, St. Thomas, and St. Anthony of Padua, the Donor kneeling to the right; 929. After Raphael, Madonna and Child, old copy of the Bridge^vate^ Madonna; *288. Perugino (Pietro Vannucci, the master of Raphael ; d. 1524), Madonna adoring the Infant, with the archangel Michael on the left and Raphael with Tobias on the right; 693. Pinturicchio, St. Catharine of Alexandria; 1220. Llngegno, Madonna and Child; 1032. Lo Spagna, Agony in the Garden. **213. Raphael {Sanzio ; 1483-1520), Vision of a knight (a youth- ful work, as fine in its execution as it is tender in its conception). This little gem reveals the influence of EaphaeFs early master Ti- moteo Viti , without a trace of the later manner learned from Perugino. The original *Cartoon hangs close by. 'Two allegorical female figures", representing respectively the noble ambitions and the joys of life, appear to a young knight lying asleep beneath a laurel, and offer him his choice of gbiry or pleasure". — Passavant. **1171. Raphael, Madonna degli Ansidei, bought from the Duke of Marlborough in 1884 for 70,000i., the largest sum ever given for a picture. This Holy Family was painted by Raphael in 1606 for the chapel of the Ansidei iamily in the Servite church at Perugia. In 1764 it was purchased by Lord Pi^obert Spencer, brother of the third Duke of Marl- borough. The two figures flanking the Virgin are those of John the Baptist and St. Nicholas of Bari . the latter represented in his epis- copal robes. The small round loaves at his feet refer to his rescue of the town of Myra from famine. In the background is a view of the Tuscan bills. From the canopy hangs a rosary, recalling a similar orna- ment in Mantegna's Holy Family in the Louvre. — This great work, the most important example of Raphael in the country, was executed entirely by the master's own hand and is in admirable preservation. *744. Raphael, Madonna, Infant Clirist, and St. John (the 'Aldobrandini' or 'Garvagh Madonna'). 'The whole has a delicate, harmonious effect. The flesh, which is 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 155 yellowish in the lights, and lightish brown in the shadows, agrees ex- tremely well with the pale broken rose-colour of the under garment, and the delicate bluish grey of the upper garment of the Virgin. In the seams and glories gold is used, though very delicately. The execution is particularly careful, and it is in an excellent state of preservation". — W. *168. Raphael^ St. Catharine of Alexandria. •In form and feeling no picture of the master approaches nearer to it than the Entombment in the Eorghese Palace, which is inscribed 1{X)7.' — W, 18L Perugino, Madonna and Child; 751. Giovanni Santi(^\Jm- hrian painter and poet, Raphaels father; d. 1494), Madonna; *1075. Perugino, Virgin and Child, a work of great depth of feel- ing; *27. Raphael, J'ope Julius 11. (replica of the original in Florence); 596. Palmezzano (pupil of Melozzo ; d. after 1537), En- tombment, painted under the influence of Giov. Bellini, Signo- relli (d. lo'23), 1128. Circumcision, a dramatic composition in the style of Michael Angelo. of whom Signorelli is generally considered the forerunner (the figure of the child has been spoiled by re- painting) ; llo3. Adoration of the Holy Child (school-piece?). 908. Piero della Francesca (ca. 1460), Nativity (injured and retouched ) ; 911. Pinluricchio, Return of Ulysses, or Lucretia and Collatinus (fresco from Siena, about 1509); 1218, 1219. Francesco Ubertini (d. 1557). History of Joseph. 758. Francesca (?more probably by Paolo Uccello'), Portrait of a lady; 665. Baptism of Christ; 585. Portrait. 910. Ascribed to Signorelli (more probably by Genga da L'rbino), Triumph of Chastity, a fresco; 282. Lo Spagna (? more probably by Beriucci of Faenza, a contemporary belonging to the Eclectic School), Madonna and Child enthroned. Koom VII. Vexetiax and Beescian Schools. To the left : 1098. Bart. Montagna (d. 1523; Venetian School), Virgin and Child; *625. Moretto [Alessandro Bonvicino, the greatest painter of Brescia; d. about 1560), Madonna and Child, with saints, 802. Montagna{^f), Madonna and Child; 1023. Giamhattista Moroni {^ot- trait-painter at Bergamo, pupil of Moretto ; d. 1578), Portrait of an Italian lady; *748. Girolamo dai Libri (Verona; d. 1556), Ma- donna and Child, with St. Anne, clear in colour and harmonious in tone, heralding the style of Paolo Veronese; *16. Tintoretto (Ja- copo Robusti, Venice; d. 1594), St. George and the Dragon; 24. Sebastian del Piombo (Venice, follower of Michael Angelo; d. 1547 ), Portrait of a lady, as St. Agatha; 1105. Lorenzo Lotto (Treviso; d. ca. 1556), The Apostolic prothonotary Giuliano; 26. Paolo Veronese (d. 1588), Consecration of St. Nicholas; 1041. Paolo Veronese(;}), St. Helena; 34. Titian {Tiziano Vecellio ; 1477-1576), Venus and Adonis (an early copy of the original in Madrid); *1022. Moroni, Nobleman; 224. Titian, The Tribute Money.— *4. Titian, Holy Family, with adoring shepherd. 'This picture is painted in Titian's early style, and recalls at once the schooling of Giorgione and Palma\ — Croice and Cavalcaselle. '■Titian . *1. Sebastian del Piombo, Raising of Lazarus. 'The transiticin frnm death to life is expressed in Lazarus with won- derful spirit, and at the same time with perfect fidelity to ."scripture. 156 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. The grave-clothes, by which his face is thrown into deep shade, vividly excite the idea of the night of the grave, which but just before enveloped him; the eye looking eagerly from beneath this shade upon Christ his Redeemer, shows us, on the other hand, in the most striking contrast, the new life in its most intellectual organ. This is also expressed in the whole figure, which is actively striving to relieve itself from the bonds in which it was fast bound'. — W. The picture was painted in 1517-19 in competition with Raphael's Transfiguration. The figure of Lazarus is quite in the spirit of Michael Angelo. 20. Sebastian del Piombo, Portraits of the painter with his seal ('piombo') of office in his hand, and Cardinal Ippolito de' Medici, painted after 1531. — *635. Titian, Madonna and Child, with SS. John the Baptist and Catharine. 'Here we are transported into a scene almost heavenly in the fulness of its pathos and loveliness, and there is true solemnity and religious grandeur in the tender feeling which enlivens a group in keeping, yet in contrast, with a landscape of delicious lines, whose enamelled greys so delicately harmonize with the rich blues, yellows, and crimsons of the dresses in the figures'. — C. d- C. 1025. Moretto, Portrait of an Italian nobleman (1526). — *35. Titian, Bacchus and Ariadne. 'This is one of the pictures which once seen can never be forgotten .... R.ich harmony of drapery tints and soft modelling, depth of shade and warm fiesh all combine to produce a highly coloured glow; yet in the midst of this glow the form of Ariadne seems incomparably fair. Nature was never reproduced more kindly or with greater exuberance than it is in every part of this picture. What splendour in the contrasts of colour, what wealth and diversity of scale in air and vegetation; how infinite is the space — how varied yet mellow the gradations of light and shade!' — C. d- C. 932. Italian School , Portrait of a man ; 636, Palma Vecchio (d. 1528; pupil of Titian) , Portrait of Ariosto ; 816. Cima da Co- negliano (Venice, contemporary of Bellini; about 1500), Christ appearing to St. Thomas ( freely restored) ; *735. Paolo Morando (^Cavazzola, the most important master in Verona before Paolo Veronese; d. 1522), St. Rochus with the angel, an excellent speci- men of his work ; 234. Catena (pupil of Giov. Bellini) , Warrior adoring the Infant Christ; 287. Bartolommeo Veneziano (rare Ve- netian master, first half of the 16th cent.). Portrait, dated 1530 (rich in colour); 1203. Giovanni Busi {^Cariani, Venetian Scliool; d. ca. 1541), Madonna; 217 . Jacopo Bassano {Jacopo da Ponte ; d. 1692), The Good Samaritan ; 930. Venetian School, Garden of Love ; *697. Moroni , Portrait of a tailor ('Tagliapanni'). — *270. Titian, Christ and Mary Magdalene after the Resurrection ('Noli me tangere'). A youthful work of the master. The slenderness of the figures, which are conceived in a dignified but somewhat mundane spirit, and the style of the landscape reveal the influence of Giorgione. 632, 633. Oirolamo da 5anfacroce (Venetian School ; about 1530), Saints; *280. Giovanni Bellini (1430-1510; described by Mr. Ruskin as 'the mighty Venetian master who alone of all the painters of Italy united purity of religious aim with perfection of artistical power'}. Madonna of the Pomegranate ; 623. Girolamo da Treviso 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 157 (a follower of Raphael ; d. 15441, Madonna and Child fmentioned by Vasari as the painter's masterpiece). — *189. G, Bellini, The Doge Leonardo Loredano. 'This remarkable portrait is a singnlar instance of the skill with which Bellini could seize and embellish nature, reproduce the flexibility of flesh in a soft and fused golden tone, and venture at the same time into every line of detail". — C. d- C. *808. Bellini, St. Peter Martyr (with very delicate gradations in the flesh tones); 300. Cima da Conegliano, Madonna and Child ; *777. Paolo Morando, Madonna and Child, with John the Baptist and an angel, tender in conception and radiant in colour; 1123. Venetian School (16th cent.), Yenus and Adonis; 750. Vittore Carpaccio (Venice, contemporary of Giov. Bellini; d. after 1522), Madonna and Child, with the Doge Giovanni Mocenigo in adora- tion ; 699. Lotto, Portraits of Agostino and Niccolo della I'orre (1515); 742. Moroni, Lawyer; 1213. Gentile Bellini (d. 1507), Portrait of a mathematician; 1202. Bonifacio Veronese (d, 1540], Madonna and Child, with saints; *268. Paolo Veronese, Adoration of the Magi, painted in 1573 for the church of St. Sylvester at Venice; 1130. Ascribed to Tintoretto, Christ washing the feet of his disciples. — *726. Giovanni Bellini, Christ in Gethsemane. This is an early work of the master, painted in 1456, and reveals the influence of Mantegna, as is proved by the resemblance to the work of that master in the possession of the Earl of Northbrook. 812. Giov. Bellini, Death of St. Peter Martyr (a late work); 694. Catena (Treviso, d. 1531 at Venice; a follower of Giov. Bellini), St. Jerome in his study ; 32. School of Titian, Rape of Ganymede ; 1024. Moroni, Italian ecclesiastic; *1047. Lotto, Family group; *299. Moretto, Count Sciarra Martinengo Cesaresco. — *294. Paolo Veronese, Family of Darius at the feet of Alexander the Great. 'In excellent condition; perhaps the only existing criterion by which to estimate the genuine original colouring of Patil Veronese. It is re- markable how entirely the genius of the painter precludes criticism on the quaintness of the treatment. Both the incident and the personages are, as in a Spanish play, romantically travestied'. — Rumoltr (MS. notes). Mr. Ruskin calls this picture 'the most precious Paul Veronese in the world' . . . 'The possession of the Pisani Veronese will happily enable the English public and the English artist to convince themselves how sincer- ity and simplicity in statements of fact, power of draughtmanship . and joy in colour, were associated in a perfect balance in the great workmen in Venice'. 3. Ascribed to Titian Vecellio, Concert; 674. Paris Bordone (Treviso, celebrated for his female portraits; d. 1571), A lady of Genoa; *1031. Giovanni Girolamo Savoldo (Brescia, about 1480- 1548), Mary Magdalene going to the Sepulchre (similar picture at Berlin) ; 637. Bordone, Daphnis and Chloc ; 595. Venetian School, Por- trait of alady;173. JBassano, Portrait of a nobleman; *297. II Roma- nino [Girolamo Romani, Brescia, a rival of Moretto ; d. 1560), Nativity. On the Stands: 97. Veronese, Rape of Europa; 1239, 1240. ATocc^o (Venice , painter and engraver; ca. 1490-1515), Massacre of the Innocents ; 1233. Giov. Bellini, Blood of the Redeemer. 158 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 673. Antonello da Messina (said to have imported painting in oil from Flanders into Italy; d. after 14931, 8alvator Mnndi, 1465. 'The oldest of his pictures which we now possess. It is a solemn but not an elevated mask ; half Flemish, half Italian. The colour is warm but not quite clear, solid in light, brownish, uneven, and showing the ground in shade, but without the brightness or pellucid finish of a later period'. — Crowe and Cavalcaselle^ 'History of Painting in Italy'. Anton, da Messina, 1141. Portrait of a young man ; 1166. Cruci- fixion. 631. Bissolo (d. about 1530), Portrait of a woman-, 1121. Venetian School (IStlicent.), Portrait of a young man. Ascribed to Francesco Mantegna (son and pupil of Andrea ; b. about 1470), 1106. Resurrection of Christ; 639. Christ and Mary Magdalene in the Garden. 1160. Venetian School of the 15th cent., Adoration of the Magi; 736. Bonsignori (Yerona; d. 1519), Portrait of a senator, dated 1487; 1120. Cima da Conegliano, St. Jerome in the wilder- ness; *281. Marco Basaiti (Venetian School; ca. 1520), St. Jerome reading. 776. Pisano of Verona (founder of the Veronese school, painter and medallist ; d. 1451), SS. Anthony and George, with a vision of the Virgin and Child in a glory above. In the frame are inserted casts of two of Pisano's medals. The one above represents Leonello d'Este, his patron; the other, the painter himself. *269. After Giorgione [Giorgio Barbarelli, a fellow-pupil of Titian under Cnov. Bellini; d. 1511), Knight in armour. A slightly altered and admirable repetition of the knight in Giorgione''s altarpiece at Castelfranco, 634. Cima da Conegliano, Madonna and Child; 1173. School of Giorgione, Subject unknown ; 1134. Liberale da Verona (b. 1456, d. after 1515), Madonna; 599. BasaitiCf), Infant Christ asleep in the lap of the Virgin, with a pleasing landscape in the background (a good work of the school of Giov. Bellini); 695. Andrea Previtali (d. 1528), Monk adoring the Holy Child. Room VIII. Paduan and Early Venetian Schools. To the left: 602. Carlo Crivelli (d. ca. 1495; Venice), Dead Christ sup- ported by angels; 1145. Andrea Mantegna (d. 1506; School of Padua), Samson and Delilah (on the tree is carved the motto 'foe- raina diabolo tribus assibus est mala peior'). Crivelli, 807. Madonna and Child enthroned ; 668. The Beato Ferretti. *274. A. Mantegna, Virgin and Child, with St. John the Baptist and the Magdalen (of the master's early period ; conscientiously minute in execution and of plastic distinctness in the outlines); 804. Marco Marziale (Ve- netian painter; flourished ca. 1490-1500), Madonna and Child. — *902. A. Mantegna, Triumph of Scipio, or the reception of the Phrygian mother of the gods (Cybele) among the publicly recog- nised divinities of Rome. In obedience to the Delphic oracle, the 'worthiest man. in Rome' was selected to receive the goddess, and the choice fell upon Publius Corne- lius Scipio Nasica (B.C. 204). The picture was painted for a Venetian nobleman, Francesco Cornara, whose family claimed to be descended from tjie Roman gens Cornelia. It was finished in 1506, a few months before 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 159 the painter's death, and is 'a tempera", in chiaroscuro. It is not so im- portant a work of Mantegna as the series at Hampton Court (p. 319). 749. Niccoli Giolfino (a little-known Veronese painter ; ca. 1465- 1520), Portraits ; 739. Carlo Crivelli^ Annunciation, dated 1486 (the heads are pleasing and the motions graceful) ; 904, Gregorio Schiavone (the 'Slavonian', a native of Dalraatia; ca. 1470), Madonna and Child; 284. Bartolommeo Vivarini (end of the 15th cent.), Virgin and Child, with SS. Paul and Jerome; 906. Crivelli, Madonna in prayer, — *724. Crivelli, Madonna and Child with SS. Jerome and Sebastian. This picture is known, from the swallow introduced, as the 'Madonna dellarondine". 'It may be said of the predella, which represents St. Catharine, St. .Jerome in the wilderness, the Nativity of our Lord, the Jlartyrdom of St. Sebastian, and St. George and the Dragon, that Crivelli never con- centrated so much power on any small composition". — C. d- C. 788. Crivelli^ Madonna and saints (large altarpieee in 13 sec- tions, painted in 1476); 803. Marco Marziale, The Circumcision; 007. Crivelli^ SS. Catharine and Mary Magdalene ; 1125. Ascribed to Mantegna, Two allegorical figures of the Seasons, in grisaille. Central Octagon. Various Schools. To the left: 1241. Pedro Campana (a native of Flanders, who studied in Italy and executed his best work in Seville; d. at Brussels in 1570 or 1580), Mary Magdalene led by Martha to hear the preaching of Christ (executed in Venice for Cardinal Grimani); 778. Ascribed to Pellegrino da San Daniele (Friuli, pupil of Bellini; about 1540), Madonna and Child (repainted); 285. Francesco Morone (early Veronese painter; d. 1529), Madonna and Child ; 1135, 1136. Veronese School (15th cent.), Legend of Trajan and the widow; 1211, 1212, Dom. Morone (d. ca, 1508), Fetes at the wedding of Gianfrancesco II, Gonzaga and Isabella d'Este; 1165, Moretto, Madonna and Child, with two saints ; 1214. Michele da Verona (d. after 1523), Coriolanus meeting Volumnia and Veturia; 1102. Pietro Longhi (Venetian genre-painter; d. 1762), Andrea Tron, procurator of the church of St. Mark; 41. Ascribed to Busi (Cariani), Death of Peter Martyr; 1048. Italian School, Portrait of a cardinal ; 272. Unknown Italian Master, An Apostle; 931. Veronese, The Magdalen laying aside her jewels; 768. Antonio Vivarini, SS. Peter and Jerome. On A Stand : 630. Schiavone, Madonna and Child enthroned, with saints. — In the centre of the Octagon is a piece of sculpture by Gibson, representing Hylas and the nymphs. Room IX., adjoining Room VII. Lombard Schools. To the left : 806. Boccaccio Boccaccino (Cremona; d, after 1518), Procession to Calvary; 286. Francesco Tacconi (Cremona; d. after 1490), Virgin and Child enthroned (the only signed work of this master extant); 1077. Ambrogio Borgroynone (architect and painter, Milanese School), Christ bearing the Cross, Virgin and Child, Agony in Gethsemanc, a triptych, one of the master's earlier works; 298. Borgoynone, Mar- riage of St. Catharine of Alexandria, to the right St, Catharine of IGO 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. Siena; 729. Vincenzo Foppa (d. 1492), Adoration of the Magi; 700. Lanini (d. ca. 1578). Holy Family, with Mary Magdalene, Pope Gregory, and St. Paul (dated 1543); *18. Bernardino Luini (of Milan, pupil of Leonardo da Vinci), Christ disputing with the Doc- tors; *15. Corregyio (Antonio Allegri; d. 1.534), Ecce Homo; *23. Correggio, 'La Madonna della Gesta', or 'La Vierge au Panier' ; 33. Parmigiano {Francesco Maria Mazzola; d. 1540), Vision of St. Je- rome; 76. Correggio, Christ's Agony in the Garden. — *10. Cor- reggio, Mercury instructing Cupid in the presence of Venus, of the masters latest period. This picture has passed thruugh the hauds of numerous owners, chiefly of royal blood. It was bought by Charles I. of England with the rest of the Duke of Mantua's collection in 1630. From England it passed to Spain, Kaples, and then to Vienna, where it was purchased by the Marquis of Londonderry, who sold it tu the National Gallery. It has suffered considerable damage during its wanderings. Mr. Ruskin, who describes Corrcggio as 'the captain of the painter's art as such, the master of the art of laying colour so as to be lovely', couples this picture with Titian's Bacchus (p. 156) , as one of the two paintings in the Gallery he would last part with. *1144. Giov. Bazzi, surnamed iSorfoma (Siena, pupil of Leon, da Vinci; d. 1549), Madonna and Child, with St. Catharine of Siena, St. Peter, and a monk. Andrea da Solaria (Milan ; d. after 1515), *923. Venetian senator (recalling Anton, da Messina); *734. Portrait, a work of much power and finish ( 1505). 1201, 1200. Ma- crino d' Alba (ca. 1500), Saints; 779, 780. Amhrogio Borgognone, Family portraits, painted on two fragments of a silken standard, attached to wood; *728. Gioi\ Ant. Beltrafpo (pupil of Leonardo at Milan; d. 1516), Madonna and Child (an effective, though simple and quiet composition, suffused in a cool light); 1152. Martino Piazza(iQth cent.), John the Baptist ; 1149. Marco d'Oggionno {Mil- anese School, pupil of Leonardo; d. 1549), Madonna and Child ; 753. AUohello Melone (Cremona; 15th cent.), On the way to Emmaus. Visitors who wish to make an unbroken sur%'ey of Italian art should now pass on to R. XIII. Boom X. Dutch and Flkmish Schools. Besides works of Ruhens and Van Dyck, the chiefs of the Flemish school of the 17th cent., this room contains good examples of Rembrandt, their great Dutch contemporary, principally of his later period. His pupils, N. Maas and P. deHooghe, are also well represented. The small pictures by Flemish masters of the 15th cent., though neither usually of the first class, nor always to be attributed to the painters whose names they bear, are yet of great interest, as afford- ing a varied survey of the realistic manner of the school. To the left: 202. Melchior d'Hondecoeter (animal -painter at Utrecht; d. 1695), Poultry ('this cock was Hondecoeters favourite bird, which he is said to have taught to stand to him in a fixed position as a model"); *1248. Bart, van der Heist (one of the best Dutch portrait-painters; b. at Haarlem in 1611 or 1612, d. 1670), 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 161 Portrait of a girl (dated 164o); 240. Nicholas Berchem (Haarlem; 1620-1683), Crossing the ford. W. van de Velde (Amsterdam, the greatest of marine-painters, in the service of Charles IL ; 1633- 1707), 149. Calm; 150. Blowing fresh. 140. Bart, van der Heist (d. 1670), Portrait of a lady; *775. Bemhrandt van Ryn [Harmens or Hermanszoon, Amsterdam; 1607-69), Old lady (1634); 223. Ludolf Bakhuizen (marine-painter of Amsterdam, with a partiality for stormy scenes; d. 1708), Dutch shipping: 239. Van der Neer (d. ca. 1690; Amsterdam), River by moonlight; 237. Rembrandt, Portrait of a woman (one of his latest works, dated 1666) ; 1252. Frans Snyders (animal and fruit painter; Antwerp. 1579-1657), Fruit: 1222. Hondecoeter, Foliage, birds, and insects; 187. Peter Paul Rubens (Antwerp; 1577-1640), Apotheosis of William the Taciturn, of Holland; 954. Cornells Huysmans (^^iQiS-i727 • Malines and Antwerp), Landscape; *53. Albert Cuyp (Dort; 1605-91), Landscape with cattle and figures (with masterly treatment of light and great transparency of shadow); 981. W. van de Velde, Storm at sea; 1168. Van der Vliet (Delft; d. 1642), Portrait of a Jesuit; 38. Rubens, Rape of the Sabine women; 152. Van der Neer, Evening scene, with figures and cattle by Cuyp, whose name is inscribed on the pail. — *672. Rembrandt, His own portrait (1640). 'If Rembrandt has often chosen to represent himself in more or less eccentric costumes, he has here preferred to pose as a man of quiet and dignified simplicity .... The portrait is admirable in design and tone. A delicate and warm light shines from above on part of the forehead, cheek , and nose , and imparts a golden hue to the shirt collar, while a stray beam brings the hand into like prominence. The execution is ex- cellent, the eflect of light delicate and vigorous'. — Vosmaer. *243. Rembrandt, Portrait of a man, dated 1657. 'This picture is one of those darkly coloured pieces vrhich Eembrandt meant to be strongly lighted. The head alone is in the full light, the hands are in the half-light only. The most conspicuous colours are vivid brovrn and red. The features, with the grey beard and moustache, though heavily painted, are well defined, and look almost as if chiselled by the brush, while the efiect is enhanced by the greenish tint of the colouring. The face, and the dark eyes in particular, are full of ani- mation. The whole work is indeed a marvel of colouring, expression, and poetry'. — Vosmaer. 49. Sir Anthony van Dyck (1599-1641), Portrait of Rubens; 51. Rubens (^i}, Jewish merchant. — *1172. Van Dyck, Charles 1. mounted on a dun horse and attended by Sir Thomas Morton. This fine specimen of Van Dyck was acquired at the sale of the Blenheim Collection in 1884 for 17,500?. It was originally in Somerset House and was sold by Cromwell for 1501. The great Duke of Marl- borough discovered and bought it at Munich. 679. Ferd. Bol (pupil of Rembrandt; d. 1681), Astronomer (1652); *1247. Nicolas Maes ox Maas (1632-1693; figure-painter at Dort, a pupil of Rembrandt), The card-players (an exceedingly graphic group of life-size figures); 732. A. van der Neer, Canal scene (daylight scenes and canvases of so large a size as this were rarely executed by Van der Neer); 190. Rembrandt. Jewish Rabbi. — *52. Van Dyck, Portrait. Baedkkek, London. 7th Edit. 11 162 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. This portrait is generally said to represent Gevartius , the friend of Rubens-, and some authorities maintain, with great probability, that it was painted by Rubens, and not by Van Dyck. 924. Pieter Neeffs (d. ca. 1660; Antwerp), Interior of a Gothic church. — 194. Rubens, Judgment of Paris. Repetitions on a smaller scale exist in the Louvre and at Dresden. The London picture, though possibly not painted entirely by Rubens' own hand, was certainly executed under his guidance and supervision. 901. Jan Looten (Dutch landscape-painter in the style of Van Everdingen; d. about 1681), Landscape. — *45. Rembrandt, The Woman taken in adultery, dated 1644. 'The colouring of the 'Woman taken in adultery' is in admirable keeping. A subdued light, an indescribable kind of glow, illumines the whole work, and pervades it with a mysterious harmony. The idea of the work is most effectively enhanced by the magic of chiaroscuro .... The different lights, the strongest of which is thrown on the yellow robe of the woman, on the group on the stairs, and on the gilded altar, are united by means of very skilful shading. The whole of the background is bathed in dark but warm shades'. — Vosmaer. 1137. Dutch School, Portrait of a boy ; *66. Rubens, Autumnal landscape, with a view of the Chateau de Stein, the painter's house, nearMalines; 166. Rembrandt, Capuchin friar; *A7. Rembrandt, Adoration of the Shepherds (1646) ; 920. Roelandt Saoery (Courtrai, landscape and animal painter; longat the court of Emp. Rudolph II.; d. 1639), Orpheus. 289. Gerrit Lundens (1622-77; Amsterdam), Amsterdam Mus- keteers. 'This picture, although but a greatly reduced copy of the renowned work by Rembrandt in the State Museum at Amsterdam, has a unique interest as representing the pristine condition of its great original before it was mutilated on all four sides and shorn of some of its figures .... in order to suit the picture to the dimensions of a room to which it was at that time (early part of last century) removed'. — Official Catalogue. 238. Jan Weenix the Younger (Amsterdam, d. 1719), Dead game; *207. Nicholas Maas, The idle servant, a masterpiece, dated 1665 ; *794. P. de Hooghe (1632-81), Courtyard of a Dutch house; 72. Rembrandt, Landscape; GSb.Hobbema, Landscape; 989. Ruysdael, Water-mills; 628, *627. Ruysdael, Landscapes with waterfalls ; 209. Jan Both (Utrecht, painter of Italian landscapes in the style of Claude; d. after 1662), Landscape, with figures by Poelenburg ; 50. Anthony van Dyck, Emperor Theodosius refused admission to the Church of S. Ambrogio at Alilan by St. Ambrose (copied, with slight alterations, from Rubens's picture at Vienna); 948. Rubens, Land- scape (sketch); 1096. Jan Weenix, Hunting-scene; 1053. Emanuel de Witte{A. 1692; Amsterdam), Interior of a church ; 680. Van Dyck (after Rubens), Miraculous Draught of Fishes. David Teniers the Younger (genre-painter in Antwerp, pupil of A, Brouwer and Rubens; 1610-94), *805. Old woman peeling a pear; 817. Chateau of the painter at Perck , with portraits of himself and his family. 986. Ruysdael, Water-mills; 59. Rubens, The brazen serpent; 242. Teniers, Players at tric-trac or backgammon; 157. Rubens, Land- scape; 746. Ruysdael, Landscape with ruins; 1008. Pieter Potter {'i 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 163 father of Paul Potter; d. 1595), Stag-hunt; 71. Both, Landscape with figures. Rubens, 67. Holy Family ; 279. Horrors of War, coloured sketch for a large picture now in the Pitti Palace at Florence. 155. Tenters the Younger, The misers ; 57. Rubens, Conversion of St. Bavon ; 1012. Matthew Merian fb. at Bale in 1621, d. 1687; painted por- traits at Nuremberg and Frankfort), Portrait. *278. Rubens, Triumph of Julius Csesar, freely adapted from Mantegna's famous cartoons, now in Hampton Court Palace. 'His tendency to the fantastic and grand led him to select the picture with the elephant carrying the candelabra: while his ardent imagination, ever directed to the dramatic, would not be restrained within the limits of the original. Instead of a harmless sheep, which, in 3Iantegna, is walking by the side of the foremost elephant, Rubens has introduced a lion and a lioness for rather a tiger) growling angrily at the elephant. Nor is the elephant more peacefully disposed, but, with an expression of fury, is on the point of striking the lion a blow with his trunk". — W. 1050. Bakhuizen, Shipping; 737. Ruysdael, Landscape with waterfall ; 46. Rubens, Peace and War (presented by the painter to Charles L in 1630); 955. Corn, van Poelenburg (d. 1667; Utrecht, imitator of the Koman School), Ruin, with women bathing; 1061. Egbert van der Poel (d. 1664; Delft), View of Delft after the ex- plosion of a powder-mill in 1654; 970. Gabriel Metsu (Amsterdam; 1630-67), The drowsy landlady; *963. Isaac van Ostade (landscape and figure painter, pupil of his elder brother Adrian; d. 1649), Frozen river (glowing with light, very transparent in colour, and delicate in treatment); 1000. Bakhuizen, Shipping; =^"212. Thos. de Keyser (Amsterdam; about 1660), Merchant and clerk; *757. Rem- brandti^f), Christ blessing little children ; 1221. A. de Pape(d. 1668), Interior; 1255. JanJansz van de Velde (a rare Amsterdam painter; ca. 1640-56), Still-life; 1256. Herman Steenwyck (Delft), Still- life ; 156. Van Dyck, Study of horses ; *1021. Frans Hals (Haarlem; 1580-1666), Portrait; 994. Jan van der Heyde (architectural and landscape-painter at Amsterdam ; 1637-1712), Street; 1004. A. Ber- chem, Italian landscape; *797. Attributed to A. Cuyp (in the style of his father Jacob Gerritz Cuyp, an eminent portrait-painter, and perhaps by him). Portrait, dated 1649; 1060. Philip Wouwerman (Haarlem; 1619-68), Vedettes, an early work; 154. Ten/er*^, Mus- ical party; 1095. Jan Lievens (1607-V1663), Portrait ;^221. Rem- brandt, The artist at an advanced age; 956. Jan Bo//t(d. 1652; Utrecht, visited Rome), Italian scene; 972. Jan Wynants (ca. 1640-80), Landscape; 158. Tenters, Boors regaling; 1251. Fr. Hals, Portrait. On Stanijs: 659. Rottenhammer (1564-1623), Pan and Syrinx; 1015. Jan van Os^d. 1808), Fruit; 1014. Adam Elshaimer {German School; d. 1620), Martyrdom of St. Lawrence; 998. God fried Schal- cken (Dutch genre-painter, famed for his candle-light effects, and a pupil of Gerard Dou; d. 1706), Duet; 1132. Hendrick Steenwyck the Younger (b. at Frankfort, worked at Antwerp and at London, where he supplied an-hitectural ba<^kgrounds to Van Dyck's por- traits; 1580-1649), Interior. 11* 164 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. *896. Oerard Terburg or Ter Borch (Deventer, the greatest Dutch painter of conversation pieces ; d. 1681), Peace of Miinster. 'This picture represents the Plenipotentiaries of Philip IV. of Spain and the Delegates of the Dutch United Provinces assembled in the Rath- haus at Miinster, on the 15th of May, 1648, for the purpose of ratifying and confirming by oath the Treaty of Peace between the Spaniards and the Dutch, signed on the 30th of January previous'. (Catalogue). It is one of the master's very finest works. 199. Schalcken^ Lesbia weighing jewels against her dead sparrow (Catullus, Carmen iii}-, 192. Gerard Dou ox Dow (Leyden; 1613- 1675), Portrait of himself; 796. Jan van Huysum (Amsterdam; 1682-1749), Flowers; *1277. N. Maes, Portrait (dated 1666); *680. Van Dyck, The Miraculous Draught of Fishes, copy of a large altar- piece by Rubens at Malines; *1 114-1 118. Gonzales Cogwes (Antwerp, d. 1684), The five senses, allegorical and finely executed half- lengths. H. Sorgh (Rotterdam, pupil of Teniers the Younger; d. 1682), 1056. Man and woman drinking; 1055. Card-players. 985. Karel Dujardin (pupil of Bercliem, painted landscapes and animals in Holland andltaly;d. 1678), Sheep and goats, dated 1673 ; 1011. Co(/wes, Portrait ; 1002. J. Walscappelle (ca. 1667-1718), Flowers; 1243. Dutch School, Portrait; 1001. Van Huysum, Flowers; 1195. Rubens, Design for a salver ; no number, Hans Holbein (German School; 1497-1543), Portrait of Christina, Princess of Denmark, lent by the Duke of Norfolk. Room XI. Early German and Flemish Schools, etc. The names of the artists are in many cases doubtful. To the left : 1094, 1231. Sir Anthony More or Mora (b. at Utrecht in 1512, painted portraits in England), Portraits; 184. Nicolas Lu- cidel (ca. 1527-90; b. in Hainault, painted portraits at Nuremberg), Jeanne d'Archel (formerly ascribed to More); 719. Henrik met de Bles ('Henry with the forelock'; Flemish painter of the 16th cent.), Mary Magdalen; 1232. Heinrich Aldegrever (Westphalian School, imitator of Diirer; 16th cent.), Portrait; 706. Master of the Lyvers- berg Passion (Cologne; 15th cent.), Presentation in the Temple; 1089. Patinir (d. 1524), Virgin and Child, with St. Elizabeth ; 291. Cranach (German School; d. 1553), Young lady; 664. Roger van der Weyden the Elder (d. 1464), Deposition in the Tomb; 295. Quintin Matsys (d. 1531), SalvatorMundi and Virgin Mary, replicas of Iwo pictures at Antwerp ; 687. William of Cologne (early Cologne painter; 14th cent.), St. Veronica with her napkin; *944. Ma- rinas de Zeeuw or Van Romer swale (d. ca. 1570 ; a follower of Q. Matsys), Two bankers or usurers in their office, one inserting items in a ledger, while the other seems to recall with difficulty the particulars of some business transaction; 654. School of Roger van der Weyden, Mary Magdalen; 1082. PafmtV, Visitation ; Qb^. Flemish Master of the 15th cent., Portraits ; 260. Meister von Liesborn (15th cent.), Saints ; 657. Jac. Cornelissen (Amsterdam ; d. ca. 1560), Dutch lady and gentleman, with their patron-saints, Peter and Paul; 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 165 Patinir, 1717. St. John in Patmos, 1716. St. Christopher ; 709. Early Flemish School, Virgin and Chikl: J. vanSchoreel ('d.156'2), 720. (?) Rest on the Flight into Egypt, 721. Portrait; 655. Bernard van Orlexj (d. 1542), Reading Magdalen ; 718. Henrik met de Bles, Mt. Calvary; 1086. Early Flemish School, Christ appearing to the Virgin after his Resurrection; *707. Master of the St. Bartholomero Altar, SS. Peter and Dorothy, parts of an altarpiece in Munich ; 774. Flemish School of the 15th cent., Virgin and Child enthroned; *658. Early derman School (formerly ascribed to Martin Schongauer), Death of the Vir- gin; *1045. Gheerardt David (early Flemish painter of Bruges; d. 1523), Wing of an altarpiece, representing Canon l?ernardino di Salviatis, a Florentine merchant in Flanders, with SS. Martin, Do- natian, and Bernardino of Siena, a masterpiece ; 711. Ascribed to Roger van der Weyden, Mater Dolorosa. — *686. Hans Memling or Memlinc (early Flemish master of Bruges ; d. ca. 1495), Virgin and Child enthroned. This is the only authentic work of this master in the gallery, and is marked bv his peculiar tenderness of conception and vividness of tints. *222! Jan van Eyck (d. 1440 ; founder of the early Flemish School), Portrait of a man. 'This is a panel in which minute finish is combined with delicate modelling and strong relief, and a brown depth of colour". — Crowe and Cavalcaselle, 'Early Flemish Painters'. *186. Jan van Eyck, Portraits of Giovanni Arnolflni and Jeanne de Chenany, his wife. 'In no single instance has John van Eyck expressed with more per- fection, by the aid of colour, the sense of depth and atmosphere; he nowhere blended colours more carefully, nowhere produced more trans- parent shadows The finish of the parts is marvellous, and the preservation of the picture perfect'. — C. d- C. 'Without a prolonged examination of this picture, it is impossible to form an idea of the art with which it has been executed. One feels tempted to think that in this little panel Van Eyck has set himself to accumulate all manner of difficulties, or rather of impossibilities, for the mere pleasure of overcoming them. The perspective, both lineal and aerial, is so ably treated, and the truthfulness of colouring is so great, that all the details, even those reflected in the mirror, seem perspicuous and easy; and instead of the fatigue which the examination of so laborious and complicated a work might well occasion, we feel nothing save pleasure and admiration'. — Reiset, ^Gazette des Beaux Arls\ 1878 (p. 7). The signature on this picture is 'Johannes de Eyck fuit hie' ('Jan van Eyck was here'). The inscription on No. 222 is equally modest: 'Als ich kan' ('As I can'). *290. Jan van Eyck, Portrait of a man, dated 1432. 'The drawing is careful, the painting blended to a fault'. — C. tt C. 712. Roger van der Weyden, Ecce Homo ; 747. Attributed to Memling, St. John the Baptist and St. Lawrence, 'very minutely and delicately worked' ; 705. Stephan Lochner (early master of Co- logne, about 1440), SS. Matthew, Catharine of Alexandria, and John; 783. Flemish School, Exhumation of St. Hubert; 722. Sigi.<- mund Holbein (?), Portrait of a woman; 1280. Flemish Master of the 15th cent., (Christ appearing to Mary after the Resurrection; 710. Hugo van der Goes (?), Portrait of a monk, a 'vivid and truth- 166 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. ful portrait' ; *656, Jan Mabuse (Jan Gossaert; early Flemish por- trait and historical painter; d. 153'2), Portrait, drawing and colour- ing alike admirable; 245. Hans Baldung Grien (d. 1542; German School), Senator (with the monogram of Albrecht Diirer, probably forged); 946. Mabuse^ Portrait. — *943. Memling (?), Portrait of a man, dated 1462. The authenticated paintings of this master bear dates not earlier than 1470. Critics are not yet wliolly agreed as to the authorship of this ad- mirable work, but it is more probably by Dierick Bouts than by Memling. 1042. Catharine van Hemessen (portrait-painter at the Spanish court; 16th cent.), Portrait. We now again pass through Room X. in order to reach — Boom XII. Peel Collection. This is a collection of Flemish and Dutch cabinet-pieces, chiefly works of the very first rank. 819. Bakhuizen, Off the mouth of the Thames. W. van de Velde, 872. Shipping; 876. Gale. *834. P. de Hooglie, Dutch interior (broad, full, sunlight effect); 818. Bakhuizen^ Coast-scene; 865. Jon van de Cappelle (marine-painter of the 17th cent., at Amsterdam, under the influence of Rembrandt), Coast-scene. *873. W. van de Velde, Coast of Scheveningen. 'The numerous figures are by Adrian van de Velde. The union of these two great masters makes this one of the most charming pictures of the Dutch school'. — W. *864. Gerard Terburg, Guitar lesson. 'Terburg may be considered as the creator of what are called con- versation-pieces, and is at the same time the most eminent master in that line. In delicacy of execution he is inferior to none-, nay in a certain delicate blending he is superior to all. But none can be compared to him in the magical harmony of his silver tones, and in the gradations of the aerial perspective". — Waagen, '■Treasures of Art in Britain\ 853. Rubens, Triumph of Silenus ; *839. Metsu, Music-lesson ; 884. Wynants, Landscape, with figures by A. van de Velde. — *852 Rubens, Portrait, known as the 'Chapeau de paille'. 'The chief charm of the celebrated 'Chapeau de Paille' (chapeau de poll) consists in the marvellous triumph over a great difficulty, that of painting a head entirely in the shadow cast by the hat, and yet in the clearest and most brilliant tones'. — ■Kugler\ edited by Crowe. *856. Jem Steen (painter of humorous conversation - pieces ; Delft and the Hague; d. 1679), The music-master (an early and very carefully finished work, — *869. A. van de Velde, Frost-scene. 'Admirably drawn, touched with great spirit, and of a very pleasing, though, for the subject, perhaps too warm a tone'. — TF. 829. Jan Hackaert (Amsterdam, 17th cent.), Stag-hunt; *870, 871. W. van de Velde, Sea-pieces; *849. Paul Putter (The Hague; 1625-54), Landscape with cattle ; 833. Meindert Hobbema (Amster- dam, pupil of Ruysdael; 1638-1709), Forest scene. — *868. A. van de Velde, Ford. •The composition is very tasteful, and the contrast between the con- centrated mass of light and the clear half shadow , which is repeated in soft broken tones upon the horizon, is very attractive'. — W. *826. Dujardin, Figures and animals reposing ; *835. Pieter de Hooghe, Court of a Dutch house, 1658. 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 167 'Excites a joyful feeling of summer. In point of fulness and depth of tone and execution one of the best pictures of the master'. — W. 882. Wouwerman^ Landscape; 827. Dujardin, P^ording tlie stream, dated 1657. *830. Hobbema, The Avenue, Middelhaniis. •From simple and by no means beautiful materials a picture is formed which, by the feeling for nature and the power of art. makes a striking impression on the intelligent spectator. Such daylight I have never before seen in any picture. The perspective is admirable, while the gradation, from the fullest bright green in the foreground, is so delicately observed, that it may be considered a masterpiece in this respect, and la, on the whole, one of the most original works of art with which I am acquainted". — W. 866. Van der Heyde, Street in Cologne, witli figures by A. van de Velde; 880. Wouwerman, On the seashore, selling fish (sup- posed to be his last worli) : 828. Dujardin^ Landscape, witli cattle. — *846. Adrian van Ostade (figure-painter at Haarlem, pupil of Frans Hals ; d. 1685), The alchymist. 'The effect of light in the foreground, the predominant golden tfjne of extraordinary brightness and clearness, the execution equally careful and spirited, and the contrast of the deep cool chiaroscuro in the back- ground have a peculiar charm'. — W. 883. Wynants (d. ca. 1680), Landscape, with accessories by Lingelbach (dated 1659). 'This landscape has. in a rare degree, that serene, cool freshness of tone, which so admirably expresses the character of northern scenery, and in which Wynants is quite unrivalled'. — W. *832. Hohbema, Village, with water-mills (in a warm, summer- like tone). — *822. Cuyp, Horseman and cows in a meadow. 'Of exquisite harmony, in a bright cool light, unusual with him'. — W. 867. Adrian van de Velde (brother of Willem and pupil of Wynants at Haarlem : 1639-72), Farm cottage; 861. Teniers^ River- scene; *836. Phil, de Koninck (pupil of Rembrandt ; d. 1690), Land- scape, figures by A. van de Velde; 841. Willem van Mieris (d. 1747), Fish and poultry shop (1713)..— *825. Gerard Dou (d. 1675), Poulterers shop. 'Besides the extreme finish , in which he holds the first place , it surpasses many of his other pictures in its unusual clearness and in the agreeable and spirited heads'. — W. 878. Wouwerman, 'La belle laitiere'. 'This picture combines that delicate tone of his second period with the great force which he adopted especially toward the end of it. The effect of the dark figures relieved against the landscape is extraordi- nary' — W. 855. Ruysdael^ Landscape with a waterfall. — *847. /. van Ostade^ Yillage-scene in Holland. 'This delicately drawn picture combines the greatest solidity with the most spirited execution , and the finest impasto with the greatest glow and depth of tone. Paul Potter himself could not have painted the grey horse better'. — W. *879. Wouwerman, Interior of a stable (very delicately finished). — 831. Hobbema^ Ruins of Brederode Castle. 'Strongly illumined by a sunbeam, and reflected in the dark yet clear water which surrounds tliem'. — W. 168 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. *848. Isaac van Ostade (d. 1649), Canal scene in winter. 'The great truth, admirable treatment, and fresh feeling of a winter's day render it one of the che/s-d''oeuvre of the master'. — W. 820. Berchem, Landscape, with ruin; 881. Wouwerman^ Gather- ing faggots; 862. Teniers, The husband surprised; 854. Ruysdael, Forest-scene; 823. Cuyp, River-scene, with cattle; 843. Caspar Net- scher (p'lpil of Terburg, settled at the Hague; d. 1684), Children blowing soap-bubbles (1670); 863. Tenters, Dives in torment; 951. David Teniers the Elder (pupil of Rubens, and also of Elshaimer at Rome; d. 1649), Playing at bowls; 1003. Jan Fyf (aniraal-paintcr at Antwerp in the time of Rubens; d. 1661), Dead birds; 957. Jan Both, Cattle and figures; 1009. Paul Potter, Old grey hunter; 964. Van der Cappelle, River-scene; 962. A. Cuyp, Cattle and figures; 961. Cuyp, Cattle and figures; 205. J. W. E. Dietrich (German School, court-painter at Dresden; d. 1774), Itinerant musicians; 1006. Berchem, Landscape; 949. Teniers the Elder, Rocky landscape ; 1010. Dirfc van 7) eeien (architectural painter in Zeeland ; 17th cent.), Extensive palatial buildings of Renaissance architecture, with figures by A. Palamedesz ; 969. .4. ran der Neer, Frost-scene; 798. Philip de Champaigne[A. 1674), Three portraits of Cardinal Richelieu, painted as a guide in the execution of a bust (over the profile on the spec- tator's right are the words, 'De ces deux profiles ce cy est le meil- leur); 991. Eaj/srfaei, Prostrate tree; 992. J. rfmr/erHei/dm(d. 1712), Gothic and classic buildings; 1017. Unknown Flemish Master, Land- scape (signed D.D. V., 1622); 978. Vande Velde, River-scene; 980. Willem van de Velde the Younger, Dutch vessels saluting; 950. Teniers, Conversation (three men near the door of a house); 973. Jan Wouwerman (landscape-painter at Haarlem; wrongly ascribed to Wynants), Sandbank in a river; 975. Philip Wouicerman, Stag-hunt. *54. Rembrandt, Woman bathing, dated 1654. 'Her eyes are cast down, her head inclined. Is she hesitating to enter the water in which she is mirrored? .... The charm and value of this painting lie in the brillant touch and impasto , the warm and forcible colouring, the middle tints, and the admirable modelling'. — Vosmaer, ^Rembrandt, Sa Vie et ses CEuvres'. 983. Adrian van de Velde, Bay horse, cow, and goat; 43. Rem- brandt, Descent from the Cross; *159. Maas, The Dutch housewife, dated 1655; 974. Philip de Koninck, Hilly, wooded landscape, with a view of the Scheldt and Antwerp Cathedral ; *995. Hobbema, Forest-landscape, of peculiarly clear chiaroscuro ; 988. Ruysdael, Old oak;*153. Maas, Cradle. Van der Cappelle, 966. River-scene; 967. Shipping. 1013. Hondecoeter, Geese and ducks. Ruysdael, *990. Landscape, an extensive flat, wooded country (a chef-d'oeuvre) ; 987. Rocky landscape. — 952. Teniers the Younger, Village fete, dated 1643. 'An admirable original repetition of the masterly picture in the pos- session of the Duke of Bedford, though not equal to the Bedford picture in delicacy'. — W. 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 169 960. Cuyp, Windmills; 958. Jan Both^ Outside the walls of Rome. — *976. Philip Wouwerman, Battle. 'Fall of animated action, of the utmost transparency, and executed with admirable precision'. — W. 1005. Berchem, Landscape; 971. Wynants, Landscape; 211. J. van Huchtenburgh (d. 1733), Battle; 877. Van Dyck, His own portrait ; 1074. Dirk Hals (younger brother of Frans ; d. 1656), Merry party; 1278. Hendrik Gerritz Pot (d. ca. 1656), Convivial party. On Stands: 953. Teniers, The toper; 999. G. Schalcken^ Candle- light effect; *821. Gonzales Coques, Family portraits, amply justify- ing the artist's claim to be the 'Little Van Dyck' ; 968. Gerard I)ou, The painters wife; 997. Schalcken, Old woman. — *844. Netscher^ Maternal instruction. 'The ingenuous expression of the children, the delicacy of the hand- ling, the striking effect of light, and the warm deep harmony render this one of the most pleasing pictures by Netscher'. — W. Above the cupboard at the back there hangs a small copy of Ru- bens' 'Brazen Serpenf in this collection (No. 59, see p. 162). 845. Netscher, Lady at a spinning-wheel (finished with great delicacy; 840. Frans van Mieris (d. 1681), Lady feeding a parrot (these two figures, of the same size and in the same dress, afford an interesting comparison of the workmanship of the two masters) ; *824. A. Cuyp, Ruined castle in a lake ('gilded by the most glowing evening sun'). *838. Gabriel Metsu (painter of interiors at Amsterdam ; d. after 1667), The duet. 'Painted in the warm, full tone , which is especially valuable in his pictures'. — W. 875. W. van de Velde, Light breeze; 857-860. Teniers, The seasons; 850. Rembrandt, Portrait of a man (1635). Room XIII. Later Italian School. What is known as the Eclectic or Academic School of Painters arose in Italy with the foundation of a large academy at Bologna by the Carracci in 1589. Its aim was to combine the peculiar excellences of the earlier masters with a closer study of nature. The best representatives of the school are grouped together in this room, which also contains examples of the later Venetian masters. Annibale Carracci (younger brother of Lodovico, and founder along with him of the Bolognese Academy; d. 1609), 93. Silenus gathering grapes; 94. Pan teaching Apollo to play on the pipe, quite in the style of the ancient frescoes. 228. Jacopo Bassano (Venetian painter of the late Renaissance; d. 1597), Christ driv- ing the money-changers out of the Temple; 624. Ascribed to Giulio Romano (Roman School, pupil of Raphael; d. 1546), Infancy of Jupiter; 1054. Francesco Guardi (architectural and landscape painter, closely allied to Canaletto ; d. 1793), View in Venice ; 1157. Bernardo Cavallino (Naples; d. 1654), Nativity; 48. Domenichino {Domenico Zampieri; d. 1641), Tobias and the Angel; 22. Guer- cino (^Giovanni Francesco Barbieri; d. 1666), Angels weeping over 170 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. the dead body of Christ (a good example of this painter, resembling Caravaggio in the management of the light, and recalling the picture of the same subject by Van Dyck in the Antwerp Museum); 214. Guido (? probably a northern painter), Coronation of the Virgin; 198. Ann. Carracci, Temptation of St. Anthony, unattractive; 160. Pietro Francesco Mola (1612-68), Repose on the Flight into Egypt; 11. Guido Rent (d. 1642), St. Jerome; 936. Bibiena (Bologna: d. 1743), Performance of Othello in the Teatro Farnese at Parma. *942. Canaletto (Antonio Cannle, of Venice ; d. 1768), Eton College in 1746, with the Thames in the foreground. This picture was painted during the artist's visit to England in 1746-8, perhaps, as Mr. Cook points out, in the same year (1747j that Gray published his well-known 'Ode on a di^^tant Prospect of Eton College'. 1100. Pietro Longhi (Venice, sometimes called the 'Italian Ho- garth'; 1702-62), Domestic group; 935. Salvator Rosa (Neapolitan landscape-painter; d. 1673), River-scene. — -937. Canaletto^ Seuola di San Rocco, Venice. The picture represents 'the ceremony of Giovedi Santo or Maundy Thursday, when the Doge and officers of state with the fraternity of St. Rock went in procession to the church of St. Mark to worship the miraculous blood\ — Catalogue. 940. Canaletto, Ducal Palace and Column of St. Mark, Venice ; 1101. Longhi, Carnival maskers at a menagerie; 25. Ann. Carracci, St. John in the Wilderness; 939. Canaletto, Piazzetta of St. Mark, Venice; 1206. Salv. Rosa, Landscape; 210. Guardi, Piazza of St. Mark, Venice ; 85. Domenichino, St. Jerome and the Angel ; 934. Carlo Dolci (Florentine painter of sacred subjects; d. 1686), Virgin and Child; 196. Guido, Susannah and the Elders ('a work', says Mr. Ruskiu , 'devoid alike of art and decency'); *84. Salv. Rosa, Mercury and the woodman; 77. Domenichino, Stoning of St. Stephen; 9. Ann. Carracci ('!'), Christ appearing to St. Peter after his Resurrection (the difficulties of foreshortening have been only partly overcome); 76. Domenichino, Landscape with St. George and the Dragon ; 200. Sassoferrato [Giov. Batt. Salvi; d. 1685), Ma- donna in prayer (primitive in colouring, common in form, and lighted for effect); 163. Canaletto, Grand Canal, Venice; 138. Pannini (Roman School ; d. 1764), Ancient ruins. — 740. Sasso- ferrato, Madonna and Child. The composition is not by Sassoferrato, but is from an earlier etching by Cav. Ventura Salembeni (d. 161:3). See Catalogue. 28. Lodovico Carracci (d. 1619), Susannah and the Elders; *643. Giulio Romano (ascribed by Mr. Crowe to Giulios pupil, Rinaldo Mantovano), Capture of Carthagena, and the Moderation of Publius Cornelius Scipio, colouring and drawing both excellent. — *56. Annibale Carracci, Landscape with figures. 'Under the influence of Titian's landscapes and of Paul Bril, who was so justly esteemed by him, Annibale acquired that grandeur of composi- tion, and beauty of outlines, which had so great an influence upon Claude and Gaspar Poussin.' — W. 941. Canaletto, Grimani Palace, Venice; 177. Guido Rem, 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 171 Mary Magdalen; 174. Carlo] Maratta (Roman painter ; <1. 1713), Portrait of Cardinal Cerri; 172. Caravoggio (Michaelangelo Amerighi^ founder of the naturalistic school of Naples; d. 1609), Christ and the Disciples at Emmaus ; 127. Canaletto, View of the Scuola della Carita, now the Accademia delle Belle Arti, Venice; 63. Ann. Carracci, Landscape. — 29. Baroccio (Federigo Barocci., a follower of Correggio; d. 1612), Holy Family ('La Madonna del Gatto", so called from the cat introduced). 'The chief intention of the picture is John the Baptist as a child, who teases a cat hy showing her a bullfinch which he holds in his hand. The Virgin, Christ, and Joseph seem much amused by this cruel sport.' — W. 271. Ouido Reni , Ecce Homo; 70. Padovanino (^Alessandro Varotari, of Venice; d. 1650), Cornelia and her children (children form this artist's favourite subject); *644. Ascribed to Rinaldo Man- tovano, Rape of the Sabine women, and Reconciliation between the Romans and Sabines (these pictures recall, in many respects, Ra- phael's frescoes in the Vatican); 1059. Canaletto, Church of S.Pietro di Castello, Venice ; 88. Ann. Carracci, Erminia taking refuge with the shepherds (from Tasso) ; 938. Canaletto, Regatta on the Canale Grande, Venice; *191. Guido i?enj, Youthful Christ embracing St. John, a very characteristic work, and the best picture by Guido in this" collection ; 1058. Canaletto, Canal Reggio, Venice. Boom XIV. French School. The French landscape-painter Claude Lorrain , who is represented in this collection by several tine examples, is chiefly eminent for his skill in aerial perspective and his management of sunlight. Salvator Rosa and the two Poussins lived and painted at Rome contemporaneously with him (17th cent.). Nicolas Poussin , more famed as a painter of figures than of landscapes , was the brother-in-law of Gaspar Poussin (properly Gaspar Dughet), a follower of Claude. On each side of the doorway hang a large landscape by Claude and one by Turner. To the right, as we enter from Room XIII. : *12. Claude (d. 1682), Landscape with figures (with the inscription on the picture itself, 'Mariage d'Isac avec Rebeca'), a work of wonderfully transparent atmosphere , recalling in its composition the celebrated picture 'II molino' (the mill) in the Palazzo Doria at Rome, painted in 1648; *479. Turner, Sun rising in a mist. — ■ To the left: 498. Turner, Dido building Carthage. (These two pictures were bequeathed by the artist on condition that they should be hung beside the Claudes.) This picture (No. 498) is not considered a favourable specimen of Tur- ner, whose 'eye for colour unaccountably fails him' (Ruskin). Mr. Ruskin comments on the 'exquisite choice' of the group of children sailing toy- boats, as expressive of the ruling passion, which was to be the source of Carthage's future greatness. The visitor will scarcely need to be referred to 'Modern Painters' (Vol. 1.). for Mr. Ruskin's eloquent comparison of Turner with Claude and the other landscape-painters of the old style and for his impassioned championship of the English master. . 172 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. *14. Claude, Embarkation of the Queen of Sheba (1648^. 'The efl'ect of the mornino; sun on the sea , the waves of which rtin high, and on the masses of buildinp; which adorn the shore , producing the most striking contrast of light and shade, is sublimely poeticaF. — W. Then, to the left: 1190. Ascribed to Fr. Clouet (court-painter to Francis 1. ; b. about 1510, d. before 1574), Portrait of a boy ; 660. Clouet^ Portrait of a man ; 36. Gaspard Poussin (properly G. Dughet; d. 1675), Land-storm; 236. C. J. Vernet (grandfather of Horace Vernet; d. 1789), Castle of Sant' Angelo, Rome. Claude, *1018. Classical landscape, dated 1673; 2. Pastoral landscape with figures (reconciliation of Cephalus and Procris); *30. Embarkation of St. Ursula. 95. G. Poussin, Landscape with Dido and vEneas, with sky much overcast; 65. N. Poussin {A. 1665), Cephalus and Aurora ; 19. Claude, Landscape with figures ; 903. Hyacinthe Riyaud (portrait-painter under Louis XIV. and Louis XV. ; d. 1743), Por- trait of Cardinal Fleury. Nicolas Lnncret (painter of 'Fetes Galan- tes'; d. 1743), 101. Infancy; 102. Youth; 103. Manhood; 104. Age. 5. Claude Lorrain. Seaport at sunset. — *62. N. Poussin, Bacchanalian dance. This is the best example of Nicholas Poussin in the gallery. The composition is an imitation of an ancient bas-relief. 61. Claude, Landscape; 165. N. Poussin, Plague among the Philistines at Ashdod. — *31. G. Poussin, Landscape, with Abra- ham and Isaac. 'This is the finest picture by Poussin here. Seldom, perhaps, have the charms of a plain , as contrasted with hilly forms overgrown with the richest forests, been so well understood and so happily united as here, the efl'ect being enhanced by a warm light, broken by shadows of clouds'. — W. 206. Jean Greuze (painter of fancy portraits: d. 1805), Head of a girl ; 58. Claude Lorrain, Landscape with goats. — 40. N. Poussin, Landscape, with Phocion. According to Mr. Ruskin, this is 'one of the finest landscapes that an- cient art has produced, — the work of a really great and intellectual mind'. 42. N. Poussin, Bacchanalian festival; 55. Claude, Landscape, with death of Procris; 1154. Greuze, Girl with a lamb ; 161. G. Pous- sin, Italian landscape; *6. Claude, Landscape with figures (David and Saul in the Cave of Adullam?); 1159. G. Poussin, The Calling of Abraham. N. Poussin, 91. Venus asleep, surprised by satyrs; 39. Nursing of Bacchus. 1090. Francois Boucher (1704-1770), Pan and Syrinx. Greuze, *1019. Head of a girl looking up ; 1020. Girl with an apple. Room XV. Spanish School. To the left: Velazquez (d. 1660), *232. Adoration of the Shep- herds (early work, under the influence of Spagnoletto) ; *197. Philip IV. hunting the wild boar. Bartolome Esteban Murillo (in- fluenced by Velazquez and Van Dyck ; d. 1682), 1257. Nativity of the Virgin (said to be a colour-sketch for the large painting in the Louvre); *176. St. John and the Lamb; *74. Spanish peasant boy. 1229, Morales (1509-86; surnamed 'the Divine' from his love of 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 173 religious subjects), Holy Family, a highly finished little work, re- calling the Flemish manner; *1129. Velazquez^ Philip IV. [bought at the Hamilton sale for 6300i.); 1122. TheotocopuU (_d. 1625), sur- named IL Greco^ Portrait of a cardinal; 230. Zurbaran (d. 1662), Franciscan monk. Velazquez, *745. Philip IV; *1148. Scourging of Christ. *13. MuriUo, Holy Family ; 235. Ribera, Dead Christ ; 244. Rihera, Shepherd; 741. Velazquez, Dead warrior. Room XVI. [adjoining R. XIV.). Oldbr British School. To the left: Thomas Gainsborough [comp. p. 149), 760. Orpin, Parish Clerk of Bradford, Wiltshire; 109. The watering-place; *683. Gainsborough, Mrs. Siddons ; 312. Romney [1734-1802), Lady Hamilton as a bacchante. — Sir Joshua Reynolds, portrait- painter and writer on art, founder and first president of the Royal Academy [1723-92), *1259. Anne, Countess of Albemarle; 888. James Boswell, the biographer of Johnson. 1068. Romney, The parson's daughter; 1198. Lemuel Abbott (d. 1803), Portrait; 305. Reynolds, Portrait; 928. Gainsborough, Landscape; 1197. Ascribed to John Z off any {d. 1810), Portrait of Garrick ; 1044. Gainsborough, Portrait. Reynolds, 107. The banished lord ; 885. The snake in the grass; 162. Infant Samuel; 892. Robinetta, a study of the Hon. Mrs. Tollemache, painted about 1786; 106. Portrait; 306. Portrait of himself; 886. Admiral Keppel; 887. Portrait of Dr. Johnson; 891. Lady and child; 889. Portrait of himself; 307. Age of Inno- cence ; 79. The Graces decorating a terminal figure of Hymen [por- traits of the daughters of Sir. W. Montgomery); 890. George IV. when Prince of Wales; 182. Heads of angels (one of the most pop- ular and most frequently copied pictures in the Gallery); 111. Lord Heathfield, the defender of Gibraltar in 1779-83; *7o4. Por- traits. 308. Gainsborough, Musidora (from Thomson's 'Summer'). — This room also contains a few other works by Reynolds lent by the Dilletanti Society. Eoom XVII. Older British School. To the left: lid. Sir George Beaumont (d. 1827) , Landscape with the 'Melancholy Jacques'. William Hogarth [d. 1764), 1161. Miss Fenton , the actress, as 'Polly Peachum' in the 'Beggars' Opera"; *1046. Sigis- monda mourning over the heart of Guiscardo ; 1162. Shrimp girl ; 675. Portrait of his sister. 316. Loutherbourg [d. 1812), Lake in Cumberland; 304, 1064, 267, 303, 302, 1071, 108, 110. Wilson [d. 1782), Landscapes. Samuel Scott (d. 1772), 314. Old West- minster Bridge; 313. Old London Bridge. 309. Gainsborough, The watering-place; 1016. Sir Peter Lely [d. 1680), Portrait. Ho- garth, 1153. Family group; 113-118. Marriage a la mode [in 1750 Hogarth received only ilOt. for the series, which when sold again in 1794 realised 1381^. *1249. William Dobson (1610-46; the 'English Van Dyck'), Endymion Porter, Groom of the Bedchamber to Charles I.; 1224. Hudson (d. 1779), Scott, the painter; 1076. Unknown, Portrait, supposed to be the poet Gay; 112. Hogarth, 174 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. Portrait of himself; 1279. Francis Cotes (d. 1770), Portrait of Mrs. Brocas. To reach the next room, we cross the main staircase. Room XVIII. British School. To the left: *1242. Alex. Nas- myth (1758-1840; a painter of portraits and landscapes at Edin- burgh : father of Patrick Nasmyth), Stirling Castle. Sir David Wilkie describes Alex. Xasmyth as 'the founder of the landscape school of Scotland, and the first to enrich his native land with the representation of her romantic scenery". 1030. George Morland (d. 1804), Interior of a stable (1791); 374. Bonington (d.l828), Column of St. Mark at Venice; 380, 381. Patrick Nasmyth (1786-1831), Landscapes; 787. John S. Copley (b. at Boston, Mass., in 1737; d. 1815), Siege and relief of Gi- braltar. John Constable (one of the greatest English landscape- painters, who has exercised great influence on the modern French school of landscape; 1776-1837), 1066. Barnes Common; 1235. House in which the artist was born : 1277. Landscape ; 1245. Church- porch at Bergholt, Suffolk. 1110. William Blake (1757-1827), The Spiritual Form of Pitt guiding Behemoth (an 'irridescent sketch of enigmatic dream', symbolizing the power of statesmanship in con- trolling brute force); *1037. Crome (^Old Crome' of Norwich; d. 1821). Slate quarries. Constable, 1236. View on Hampstead Heath ; 1276. Harwich. 1208. Opie (d. 1807), William Godwin ; 926. Crome, Windmill; 725. Joseph Wright (Derby; d. 1797), Experiment with an air-pump; 689. Crome, Mousehold Heath, near Norwich; 1167. Opie, Portrait, supposed to beMary Wollstonecraft(Mrs. Godwin). Sir Thomas Lawrence (d. 1830), 129. John Angerstein (p. 148); 1238. Sir Samuel Romilly. 1163. Stothard (1755-1834), The Canterbury Pilgrims; 733. John Copley, Death of Major Peirson ; 1177. P. Nas- myth, Landscape; 1246. Constable, House at Hampstead; 1164. Bloke, Procession from Calvary. Gainsborough, 1271. Portrait; 80. The market cart; *311. Rustic children. 1029. Thos. Barker (1769- 1847), Landscape. Copley, 100. Last public appearance of the Earl of Chatham, who fainted in endeavouring to speak in the House of Peers on April 7th, 1778. and died a month later; 1072, 1073. Stud- ies for No. 100. 321. Stothard, Intemperance (Cleopatra and Mark Antony); 310. Gainsborough, Watering-place; 1158. James Ward (d. 1859), Harlech Castle. Room XIX. British School. This room, which formerly con- tained part of the Turner Collection (comp. p. 176) , has not yet been finally arranged. Constable, 1275. View at Hampstead; *1273. Flatford Mill; 1272. Cenotaph erected in memory of Sir Joshua Reynolds in Cole- ortonPark, Leicestershire; 1274. Glebe Farm. 897. Crome, Chapel Fields, Norwich; 1250. Daniel Maclise^iSli-lO), Charles Dickens; 853. Newton (d. 1835), Yorick and the Grisette; 1176, 1183, 1178. P. Nasmyth, Landscapes; 343. Sir A. Calcott {^the English Claude', not seen to advantage in the National Gallery ; d. 1844), Rustic 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 175 bridge ; 600. Dyckmans (b. 1811), Blind beggar; 400. Dnoid Roherta (1796-1864), Interior of Burgos CathedraL Eoom XX. Modern British School. To tlie left : 394. Wil- liam .Vulready (1786-1863), Fair time; 607. Sir Edwin Landseer (d. 1873), Highland dogs; 439. J. Linnell (d. 1882), Windmill; 452. J. F. Herring (d. 1865), The scanty meal; 407. C. Stanfield (d. 1867), View in Venice; 412. Landseer, Hunted stag; 614, W. Etly (d. 1849), The bather; 406. Stanfield, Lake of Como ; 1111. J. S. Cotman (d. 1842), Wherries on the Yare; *1226. Landseer, A distinguished member of the Royal Humane Society; 395. Mul- rcad^(d.l863), Crossing the ford; 1186. J. (r^orer(d. 1849), Land- scape, with cattle; 443. G. Lance (d.l864), Fruit; 409. Landseer, King Charles spaniels; 431. E. M. Ward (d. 1879), Disgrace of Lord Clarendon; 393. Mulready , The last in; 359. Etty, Lute- player; 411. Landseer, Highland music ; 426. Webster, The truant; 403. Charles Leslie (d. 1859), Uncle Toby and Widow Wadman in the sentry-box (from 'Tristram Shandy'); 444. A. G.Egg{^. 1863), Scene from the 'Diable Boiteux' ; 404. Stanfield, Entrance to the Zuyder Zee: *604. Landseer, Dignity and Impudence; 408. Charles Landseer (d. 1879), Clarissa Harlowe in the spunging-house; 1040. W. J. Miiller (d.l845), Landscape; 410. Landseer, High Life and Low Life; 423. Daniel Maclise, Malvolio and the Countess ; 427. Webster, Dame-school; 450. Fred. Gooda't, Village holiday; 615. W. P. Frith, Derby Day; 815. Clays, Dutch boats in the roads of Flushing; 1205. F. L. Bridell (d. 1863), Chestnut woods above Varenna, Lake Como ; 241. Sir David Wilkie (d. 1840), The Parish Beadle; 183. Thos. Phillips (d. 1845), Sir David Wilkie; 810. C. Poussin, Pardon Day in Brittany. Constable, *130. Corn-lield ; *1207. Hay-wain; *327. Valley Farm. 124. Jo/mJacfc6on(d. 1831), Rev. Wm. Holwell Carr; 398. Sir Charles Eastlake (d. 1865), A Greek girl ; 1253. J. HrAland (d. 1870), Hyde Park Corner in 1825; 446. J. C. Horsley, The Pride of the Village (from Irving's 'Sketch Book'). Sir David Wilkie (1785-1841), 99. Blind Fiddler; 122. Village Festival. 453. Alex. Eraser (d. 1865), Highland cottage; 425. J. R.Herbert, Sir Thomas More and his daughter in the Tower observing monks led to execution; 317. Stothard, Greek vin- tage; 1175. James Ward, Regent's Park in 1807 ; 1204. James Stark (A. 1859), Valley of the Yare, near Norwich; 921. Wilkie, Blind- man's Buff (sketch). On Screens; *1210. Dante Gabriel Rosselti (the leader of the pre-Raphaelite movement in English art; 1828-82), Annunciation ('Ecce Ancilla Domini ); 379. W. J. Miiller, Landscape, with Lycian peasants; 563. Thos. Seddon (a pre-Raphaelite; d. 1S56), Jerusalem and the Valley of Jehoshaphat. Room XXI. British School of the 19th century. To the left : A01. Leslie, SanchoPanza in the chamber of the Duchess; 620. Lee (d.l879). River-scene, the cattle by Cooper; *432. E. M. Ward, The 176 24. NATIONAL GALLERY. South Sea Bubble; 120. Sir William Beechey (d. 1839), Nollekens, tbe sculptor; *356. Etty, 'Youth on the prow and Pleasure at the helm" (Gray). E. Landseer, 605. Defeat of Comus; 603. Sleeping bloodhound (painted in four days); *608. 'Alexander and Dio- genes'. 922. Lawrence, Portrait of a child; 1142. Cecil Lawson (d. 1882), The August moon ; *621. Rosa Bonheur, Horse-fair; 416. Pickersgill (d. 1875), Robert Vernon (p. 148). AryScheffer{^. 1868), 1170. SS. Augustine and Monica; 1169. Mrs, Robert Hollond, who sat for St. Monica in No. 1170. 397. Eastlake, Christ lamenting over Jerusalem; 401. David Roberts (architectural painter; d. 1864), Chancel of the church of St. Paul at Antwerp ; *1209. Fred. Walker (d. 1875), The vagrants; 606. Landseer, Shoeing the bay mare; 814. Clays, Dutch shipping. Sir Edivin Landseer, 413. Peace; 414. War. 784. Opie, William Siddons, husband of the celebrated act- ress; 399. Sir Chas. Eastlake, Escape of the Carrara family from the Duke of Milan in 1389 ; 437. Danby (d. 1861), Landscape ; 609. E. Landseer, The Maid and the Magpie ; *430. E. M. Ward, Dr. Johnson in Lord Chesterfield's ante-room; 1029. Linton (d. 1876), Temples of Pastum ; *422. iMaclise, Scene from Hamlet; 340. Sir A. Callcott, Dutch peasants returning from market; 898. Sir Chas. Eastlake, Byron's dream; ^00. John Hoppner (d. 1810), Countess of Oxford ; *894. Wilkie, John Knox preaching before the Lords of the Congregation in 1559, after his return from an exile of 13 years; 1091. Pooie(d. 1879), Vision of Ezekiel; 616. E. M. Ward, James IL receiving the news of the landing of William of Orange ; 785, Sir Thos. Lawrence, Mrs. Siddons. — On Sckeexs in the middle of the room; 442. Lance, Little Red-cap; 917, T.S. G'ood(d. 1872), No news; 1225. Thos. Webster {^. 1886), His father and mother; 1112. Linnell, Portrait, Room XXII. contains an admirable colle(;tion of paintings by J. M.W. Turner (1775-1851), the greatest English landscape- painter (comp. p. 166), chiefly bequeathed by the artist himself. To the left : *528, Burial at sea of Sir David Wilkie ; 534, Ap- proach to Venice; *530, Snow-storm, steamboat off Harwich making signals; 472. Calais pier, English packet arriving; 470. Tenth plague of Egypt; 476. Shipwreck; 483, View of London from Green- wich; 813. Fishing-boats in a breeze; 480. Death of Nelson; 493, The Deluge; 481. Boat's crew recovering an anchor at Spithead ; 488, Apollo slaying the Python; 477. Garden of the Hesperides; 513. Vision of Medea; 516. Childe Harold's Pilgrimage; 473. Holy Family ; *497. Crossing the brook ; 512. Caligula's palace and bridge atBaiae; 558. Fire at sea (unfinished); 458. Portrait of himself; *538. Rain, steam, and speed, the Great Western Railway ; 501. Shipwreck at the mouth of the Meuse ; 520. Apollo and Daphne ; 506. Dido directing the equipment of the fleet at Carthage; *502. Richmond Hill; 508. Ulysses deriding Polyphemus; 505. Apollo and the Sibyl, Bay of Baiae ; 474. Destruction of Sodom; *492. 15. COLLEGE OF SURGEONS. 177 Frosty morning; 495. Apuleia in searcli of Apuleius ; 559. Pet- wortli Park; *535. The 'Sun of Venice' putting to sea: *524. The 'Fighting Temeraire' towed to her last berth to be broken up (one of the most frequently copied pictures in the whole Gallery) ; 486. View of Windsor; 548. Queen Mab's Grotto; 523. Agrippina landing with the ashes of Germanicus. 15. Royal College of Surgeons. Soane Museum, Floral Hall. Covent Garden Market. St. Paul's. Garrick Club. On the S. side of Lincoln's Inn Fields rises the Eoyal College of Surgeons (PI. R, 31; //) , designed by Sir Charles Barry, and erected in 1835. It contains an admirable museum. Visitors are admitted , through the personal introduction or written order of a member, onMon., Tues., Wed., and Thurs. from 12 to 4 in winter, and from 12 to 5 in summer. The Museum is closed during the month of September. Application for orders of admission , which are not transferable, may be made to the secretary. The nucleus of the museum consists of a collection of 10,000 anatomical preparations formed by John Hunter (d. 1793] , which was purchased by Government after his death and presented to the College. It is divided into two chief departments, viz. the Physio- logical Series, containing specimens of animal organs and forma- tions in a normal state , and the Pathological Series, containing similar specimens in an abnormal or diseased condition. There are now in all about 23,000 specimens. A Synopsis of the Contents is sold at the Museum, price 6d. Extended catalogues of the dif- ferent departments are also distributed throughout the Museum for the use of visitors. In the centre of the Western Museum, the room we first enter, is hung the skeleton of a Greenland whale; a marble statue of Hunter by Weekes, erected in 1864,. stands in the middle of the floor at the S. end of the hall. The Wall Cases on the right side contain Egyptian and other mummies, an admirable and extensive collection of the skulls of the different nations of the earth , deformed skeletons , abnormal bone forma- tions, and the like. The Floor Cabinets on the i-ighi contain anatomical preparations illustrating normal human anatomy, and also additional specimens of diseased and injured bones, including some skulls and bones injured by gun-shot wounds in the Crimean war. The first five Floor Cabinets on the left contain a collection illustrating the zoology of the invertebrates, such as zoophytes, shell-fish, crabs, and beetles. In the sixth cabinet are casts of the interior of crania. The Wall Cases on this side hold vegetable fossils, human crania, and human skeletons. In the case at the upper end of the room is the skeleton of the Irish_ giant Byrne or O'Bryan, 7ft. 7in. high; adjoining it, under a glass-shade, is that of the Sicilian dwarf, Caroline Crachami, who died at the age of 10 years, 20in. in height. Under the same shade are placed wax models of her arm and foot, and beside it is a plaster cast of her face. The Middle Museum forms the paleeontological section , where the antediluvian skeletons in the centre are the most interesting objects. Skeleton of a gigantic stag (erroneously called the Irish Elk), dug up from a bed of shell-marl beneath a peat-bog at Limerick ; giant armadilloes Baedeker, London. 7th Edit. 12 178 15. SOANE MUSEUM. from Buenos Ayres; giant sloth (mylodon), also from Buenos Ayres; a cast of the Dinornis giganteus. an extinct wingless bird of New Zealand; the huge megatherium , with the missing parts supplied. In the Wall Cases is a number of smaller skeletons and fossils. The Floor Cabinet contains in one of its trays specimens of the hair and skin of the great extinct elephant or mammoth, of which there are some fossil remains in one of the cases. The Eastern Museum contains the osteological series. In the centre are the skeletons of the large mammalia: whales (including a sperm- whale or cachalot, 50 ft. long), hippopotamus, giraffe, rhinoceros, ele- phant, etc. The elephant, Chunee, was exhibited for many years in Eng- land, but becoming unmanageable had at last to be shot. The poor animal did not succumb till more than 100 bullets had been fired into \\s body. The skeleton numbered 4506 A. is that of the first tiger shot by the Prince of Wales in India in 1876. The skeleton of 'Orlando', a Derby winner, and that of a favourite deerhound of Sir Edwin Landseer, are also exhibited here. The Cases round the room contain smaller skeletons. Round each of the rooms run two galleries, in which are kept numer- ous preparations in spirit, etc., including the diseased intestines of Napoleon I. The galleries of the Western Museum are reached by a staircase at the S. end of the room, those of the Eastern by a staircase at the E. end of the room. The galleries of the Middle Room are entered from those of either of the others. A room , entered from the staircase of the Eastern Museum, contains a collection of surgical instruments. The Museum is conspicuous for its admirable organisation and arrangement. The College also possesses a library of about 35,000 volumes. The Council Room contains a good portrait of Hunter by Reynolds and several busts by Chantrey. At No. 13, Lincoln's Inn Fields, N. side, opposite the College of Surgeons, is the Soane Museum (PI. R, 31 ; 7/1, founded by Sir John Soane (diAS37), architectof the Bank of England. During April, May, June, July, and August this interesting collection is open to the public on Tues., Wed., Thurs., and Sat., from 11 to 5 ; in February and March on Tues. and Thurs. only. Strangers are also admitted at other times by tickets obtained from the curator, Mr. Wild. The collection, which is exceedingly diversified in character, occupies 24 rooms, some of which are very small , and is most ingeniously arranged, every corner being turned to account. Among the contents, many of which offer little attraction, are a few good pictures and a number of curiosities of historical or personal interest. A General Description of the contents, price 6rf., may be had at the Museum. The Dining Rooji and Libkaey, which the visitor first enters , are decorated in the Pompeian style, and contain a large cork- model, showing the state of the excavations at Pompeii as they were in 1820. Above it are a number of plaster models of ancient temples restored. The ceiling paintings are by Howard, and the principal subjects are Phoebus in his car. Pandora among the gods, Epimetheus receiving Pandora, and the Opening of Pandora's vase. On the walls are Reynolds^ Snake in the grass , a replica of the picture at the National Gallery, and a portrait of 8ir John Soane , by Lawrence. The Greek painted fictile vase at the S. end of the room, 2 ft. 8 in. high, and the vase and chopine on the E. side, all deserve notice. We now pass through two diminutive rooms into a Hall contain- ing numerous columns and statues. To the right is the Picture Gal- lery, a room measuring 13ft. Sin. in length, 12ft. 4 in breadth, and 19 ft. 6 in. in height, which , by dint of ingenious arrangement, can ac- commodate as many pictures as a gallery of the same height, 46 ft. long 15. SOANE MUSEUM. 179 and 20 ft. broad. The walls are covered with movable shutters , hung with pictures on both sides. Among these are: Hogarth^ The Election, a series of four pictures; Canaletto , -Port of Venice. The Rialto at Venice, and The Piazza of St. Mark; Study of a head from one of Ra- phaels large cartoons, perhaps by Giulio Romano; Calcott, Passage Point, a landscape. — When the last shutter of the S. wall is opened we see below us a kind of small chapel with an altar and stained-glass windows, illumined by a yellow light from above, and on a beam above it a copy of a nymph by Westmacott. From the hall with the columns we descend into a kind of crypt, containing the tombstone of Lady Soane. Here we thread our way to the left through numerous statues, both originals and casts, and relics of ancient art, to the Sepulchral Chamber, which contains the most curious object in the whole collection. This is an Egyptian sarcophagus, found in 1817 by Belzoni in a tomb in the valley of Beiban el Maluk, near the ancient Thebes, and consisting of a piece of alabaster or arragonite, 9 ft. 4 in. long, '6 ft. 8 in. wide, and 2 ft. 8 in. deep at the head, covered both internally and externally with hieroglyphics and figures. A light placed in the sarcophagus shines through the alabaster, which is 2'/2 inches in thickness. The hieroglyphics are interpreted as referring to Sethos I., father of Ramses the Great. On the E. side of this, the lower part of the Museum, is the Monument Court, with an 'architectural pasticcio', show- ing various styles, in the centre. The above-mentioned chapel, which is known as the Monk's Parloir, contains objects of mediaeval and Renaissance art and some Peruvian antiquities. The Orator!/, in its N.E. corner, contains a fine Flemish wood-carving of the Crucifixion. The remaining rooms on the ground-floor (to which we now re-ascend) are filled with statuary, architectural frag- ments, models, and bronzes, among which some fine Roman portrait-busts may be noticed. In the Breakfast Room are some choice illuminated MSS., including the 'Conversion of St. Paul by Giulio Clovio after Ra- phael, and Stoning of St. Stephen after Giulio Pi.omano, with fine orna- mentation. Also a pistol which once belonged to Peter the Great. The first floor contains, among numerous other articles, the celebrated series of pictures of the Rake's Progress, by Hogarth (8 in number), and a carved ivory and gilt table and some chairs from the palace of Tippoo Sahib at Seringapatam. Opposite the windows is a collection of exquis- itely delicate miniature paintings on silk, by Labelle. In the second room, at the window, is a small but choice collection of antique gems, chiefly from Tarentum. It also contains a landscape by /. van Ruysdael ; a *Sea- piece by Turner, representing Adm. Tromp's barge entering the Texel ; the Cave of Despair, by Eastlake; and various architectural designs by Sir John Soane. In the glass-cases in the middle of the room are ex- hibited the first three folio editions of Shakspeare , an original MS. of Tasso's 'Gerusalemme Liberata', and two sketch-books of Sir Joshua Reynolds. On the second floor are exhibited cork -models of ancient temples, architectural drawings in water-colours, and a few pictures. The museum also contains a collection of valuable old books and MSS., most of which are only shown to visitors by special permission of the Curator. The most interesting of them are, however, those exhibited on the first floor (see above). The Floral Hall in Bow Street, adjoining the Royal Italian Opera, Covent Garden, a Crystal Palace in miniature, will scarcely repay a visit. It is sometimes used for concerts, in connection with the Covent Garden Theatre [p. 40). Nearly opposite is the New Bow Street Police Court, the most important of the 17 or 18 metro- politan police courts of London. At the corner of Bow Street and Rus- sell Street was Will's Coffee House, the resort of Dryden and other 12* 180 15. CO VENT GARDEN. literary men of the 17-18th centuries. In the vicinity, between Catherine Street and Drury Lane, is Drury Lane Theatre (p. 40). Covent Garden Market (PI. R, 31; //), the property of the Duke of Bedford, is the principal vegetable, fruit, and flower market in London, and presents an exceedingly picturesque and lively scene. The best time to see the vegetable market is about 6 o'clock on the mornings of Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, the mar- ket-days [comp. p. 26). The show of fruit and flowers is one of the finest in the world, presenting a gorgeous array of colours and diffusing a delicious fragrance; it is seen to full advantage from 7 to 10 a.m. The Easter Eve flower-market is particularly brilliant. The neighbourhood of Covent Garden is full of historic mem- ories. The name reminds us of the Convent Garden belonging to the monks of Westminster , which in Ralph Agas"s Map of Lon- don (1560) is shown walled around, and extending from the Strand to the present Long Acre, then in the open country. The Bedford family received these lands (seven acres, of the yearly value of 6i. 6s. 8d.) as a gift from the Crown In 1552. The square was planned by Inigo Jones ; and vegetables used to be sold here, thus perpetuating the associations of the ancient garden. In 1831 the Duke of Bedford erected the present market buildings, which have recently been much improved. The neighbouring streets, Russell, Bedford, and Tavistock, commemorate the family names of the lords of the soil. In the Covent Garden Piazzas, now nearly all cleared away, the families of Lord Crewe, Bishop Berkeley, Lord Mollis, Earl of Oxford, Sir Godfrey Kneller, Sir Kenelm Digby, the Duke of Richmond, and other distinguished persons used to reside. In this square was the old 'Bedford Coffee-house', fre- quented by Garrick, Foote, and Hogarth, where the Beef-Steak Club was held ; and here was the not over savoury 'Old Hummums Hotel'. Here also was 'Evans's' (so named from a former proprie- tor), a house once the abode of Sir Kenelm Digby, and long noted as a place for suppers and evening entertainments. It is now oc- cupied by a fashionable club. The neighbouring church of St. Paul, a plain building erected by Inigo Jones at the beginning of the 17th cent., contains nothing of interest. It was the first Protestant church of any size erected in London. In the churchyard are buried Samuel Butler (d. 1680"), the author of 'Hudibras' ; Sir Peter Lely [Vandervaes, d. 1680), the painter; W. Wycherley (d. 1715), the dramatist; Grinling Gibbons (d. 1721), the carver in wood ; T. A. Ame (d. 1778), the composer; John Wolcot (Peter Pindar; d. 1819), the author; and Kynaston, the actor. Between Covent Garden and the Strand is old Maiden Lane, where Andrew Marvel, the poet, and Turner, the painter once resided, and where Voltaire lodged for some time. The Garrick Club , 13 and 15 Garrick Street, Covent Garden, IG. WHITEHALL. 181 founded in 1831, possesses an important and valuable collection of portraits of celebrated English actors , shown on Wednesdays only, to visitors accompanied by a member, 16. Whitehall. United Service Museum. The Horse Guards. The Government Offices. The broad street leading from Trafalgar Square , opposite the National Gallery, to the S., towards Westminster, is called Whitehall (PL R, 26; IV), after the famous royal palace of that name for- merly situated here, of which the banqueting hall only now remains. At the beginning of the 13th cent., the Chief Justiciary, Hubert de Burgh, who resided here, presented his house with its contents to the Dominican monks of Holborn, who afterwards sold it to Walter Gray, Archbishop of York. Thenceforward it was the Lon- don residence of the Archbishops of York, and was long known as York House or York Palace. On the downfall of Wolsey, Arch- bishop of York, and favourite of Henry YIIL, Y^ork House became crown property, and received the name of Whitehall : — 'Sir, you Must no more call it York-place, tliat is past; For, since the cardinal fell, that title's lost; 'Tis now the king's, and caird — Whitehair. Hen. VIII. iv. 6. The palace was greatly enlarged and beautified by its new owner, Henry YIIL, and with its precincts became of such extent as to reach from Scotland Yard to near Bridge Street, and from the Thames far into St. James's Park, passing over what was then the narrow street of Whitehall, which it spanned by means of a beau- tiful gateway designed by Holbein. The banqueting hall of old York House, built in the Tudor style, having been burned down in 1615, James I. conceived the idea of erecting on its site a magnificent royal residence , designed by Inigo Jones. The building was begun, but, at the time of the breaking out of the Civil AVar, the Banqueting Hall only had been completed. In 1691 part of the old palace was burned to the ground, and the remainder in 1697 ; so that nothing remained of Whitehall, except the new hall, which is still standing (on the E. side of Whitehall). This fine hall, one of the most splendid specimens ot the Palladian style of architecture, is 111ft. long, 557-2 ^t- wide, and 551/2 ft. high. The ceiling is embellished with pictures by Rubens, on canvas, painted abroad, at a cost of 3000^., and sent to England. They are in nine sections, ajid represent the Apo- theosis of James I. in the centre, with allegorical representations of peace, plenty, etc., and scenes from the life of Charles I., the artist's patron. Van Dyck was to have executed for the sides a series of mural paintings, representing the history and ceremonies of the Order of the Garter, but the scheme was never carried out. 182 16. WHITEHALL. George I. converted the banquetiiig-house into a Royal Chapel, and as such it is still used. In the lobby may be seen a large sheet showing the design by Inigo Jones of the entire palace as pro- jected. On Maundy Thursday the Queen's 'eleemosynary bounty' is distributed here according to ancient custom. The public are admitted on application to the keeper. In Whitehall Gardens, at the back of Whitehall, stands a bronze statue of James II. , by Grinling Gibbons, erected in 1686. The reminiscences of the tragic episodes of English history transacted at Whitehall are much more interesting than the place itself. It was here that Cardinal Wolsey, the haughty, splendour- loving Archbishop of York , gave his costly entertainments , and here he was disgraced. Here, too, Henry YIII. became enamoured of the unhappy Anne Boleyn, at a ball given in honour of the fickle and voluptuous monarch; and here he died in 1547. Holbein, the famous painter, occupied rooms in the palace at that period. It was from Whitehall that Elizabeth was carried as a prisoner to the Tower, and to Whitehall she returned in triumph as Queen of England. From an opening made in the wall between the upper and lower central windows of the Banqueting Hall (Chapel Royal), Charles I. was led out to the scaffold erected in the street close by. A little later the Protector Oliver Cromwell took up his residence herewith his secretary, John Milton, and here he died on 3rd Sept., 1658. Here Charles II., restored, held a profligate court, one of the darkest blots on the fame of England , and here he died in 1685. After the destruction of Whitehall Palace by fire in 1697, St. James's Palace became the royal residence. In Whitehall Yard, a little to the N., is the Royal United Service Museum, which was founded in 1830 and contains an interesting collection of objects connected with the military and naval professions, and a library. The institution numbers 4600 members , each of whom pays an entrance fee of il. and a yearly subscription of the same amount or a life-subscription of 10 i. Ad- mission , by order from a member, daily, except Sundays and Fridays, 11-5 in summer, 11-4 in winter. Soldiers, sailors, and policemen in uniform are admitted without orders. — The Audi- torium, or Lecture Theatre, has seats for about 500 persons. The vestibule contains weapons and martial equipments from America, Africa, the South Sea Islands, etc. We then enter the European Armoury, containing specimens of the armour and weapons of the different Euro- pean nations. In the glass-cases by the windows are the swords of Crom- well and General Wolfe, a dirk which belonged to Nelson, and other objects interesting from their historical association. The next room is the Asiatic Armoury, with Indian guns and armour, etc. — The following three rooms are devoted to the Naval Collection^ including models of dif- ferent kinds of vessels, ships' gear, marine machinery, and the like. lu the first room is an ingenious little model of a ship, executed by a French prisoner-of-war, hung up (under glassj on one of the pillars. The second naval room contains relics of Franklin's expedition to the N. pole, and others of the Royal George , sunk at Spithead in 1782. The case in 16. UNITED SERVICE MUSEUM. 1S3 the centre contains personal relics of Drake, Nelson, Captain Cook, and other famous seamen. In the centre of the adjoining room, under glass, is a large model of the sea-fight of Trafalgar. — In a room immediately to the right of the entrance are models of ordnance and specimens of shot and shells , while an apartment beyond this contains a collection of model steam-engines. The principal room of the First Flock contains military models of various kinds: siege-operations with trenches, lines, batteries, approaches, and walls in which a breach has been efiected; fortifications, pioneer instruments, etc. The other rooms contain uniforms and equipments of soldiers of different countries , fire-arms and portions of fire-arms at dif- ferent stages of their manufacture, and (in cases) various objects of personal interest, such as the pistols of Sir Ralph Abercromby, Bolivar, and Tippoo Sahib, relics of Sir John Moore, etc. The Second Floor contains a large ''Model of the battle of Waterloo, by Captain Siborne. in which 190,000 figures are represented, giving one an admirable idea of the disposition and movements of the forces on the eventful day; relics of Xapoleon and Wellington; the skeleton of Napoleon's charger, Marengo; Hamilton''s model of Sebastopol, showing the position of the troops; the stuffed figure of Bob, the dog of the Scotch Fusilier Guards; trophies from the Crimean war and from the last cam- paign in China. Whitehall and the neighbourhood now contain various public oftices. Near Charing Cross, to the left, in Gredt Scotland Yard, is the headquarters of the Metropolitan Police ; it contains in one section the 'Black Museum', a motley collection of objects con- nected with crime and criminals. Scotland Yard is said to have belonged to the kings of Scotland (whence its name) from the reign of Edgar to that of Henry II. At a later period , Milton , Inigo Jones, Sir Christopher Wren, and other celebrated persons resided here. Opposite, on the right side of Whitehall, is the Admiralty. Below the Admiralty is the Horse Guards, the office of the com- mander-in-chief of the army, an inconsiderable building with a low clock-tower, erected in 1753 on the site of an old Tilt Yard. It derives its name from its original use as a guard-house for the palace of Whitehall. Two mounted Life Guards are posted here as sentinels every day from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., and the operation of relieving guard, which takes place hourly, is interesting. At 11 a.m. the troop of 40 Life Guards on duty is relieved by another troop, when a good opportunity is afforded of seeing a number of these fine soldiers together. The infantry sentries on the other side of the Horse Guards, in St. James's Park, are also changed at 11 a.m. A passage, much frequented by pedestrians, leads through the Horse Guards into St. James's Park, but no carriages except those of royalty and of a few privileged persons are permitted to pass. The Treastiry, a building 100 yds. in length, situated between the Horse Guards and Downing Street, originally erected during the reign of George I. and provided by Sir Charles Barry with a new fa(;ade, is the office of the Prime Minister (First Lord of the Treasury) and also contains the Education Office, the Privy Council Office, and the Board of Trade. The Office of the Chancellor of the Exchequer occupies a separate edifice in Downing Street. To the S., between Downing Street and Charles Street, rise the 1 84 16. MINISTERIAL OFFICES. new Public Offices , a large pile of buildings in the Italian style constructed in 1868-73 at a cost of 500,000^., from designs by Sir G. G. Scott (d. 1878 ). They comprise the Home Office, the Foreign Office, the Colonial Office, and the India Office. The handsomely furnished and decorated apartments of the Foreign and India Offices are shown to visitors on Fridays from 12 to 3, on application to the porter. — The effect of the imposing facade towards Parliament Street (the southern prolongation of Whitehall) has been greatly enhanced by the widening of the street to 50 yds., whereby, too, a view of Westminster Abbey from Whitehall is disclosed; but the removal of the W. side of Parliament Street will be necessary for the full realisation of this effect. The East India Museum, a rich collection of Indian products and manufactures , formerly exhibited in the India Office , has been removed to South Kensington (see p. 289). The modern edifice on the E. side of Whitehall, in the Franco- Scottish Renaissance style, is Montague House, the mansion of the Duke of Buccleuch. containing a splendid collection of miniatures and many valuable pictures. Xo. 2 Whiteliall Gardens, to the X. of Montague House, was the home of Benjamin Disraeli (Lord Beaconsfieldj in 1873-5. No. 4 was the town- house of Sir Robert Peel, whither he was carried to die after falling from his horse in Constitution Hill (June 29th, 1850). 17. Houses of Parliament and Westminster Hall. St. Margaret s Church. Westminster Bridge. The *House8 of Parliament, or New Palace of Westminster (PI, R, 25; IV), which, together with Westminster Hall, form a single pile of buildings, have been erected since 1840, from a plan by Sir Charles Barry, which was selected as the best of 97 sent in for competition. Tlie previous edifice was burned down in 1834. The new building is in the richest late-Gothic (Tudor or Perpendicular) style, and covers an area of 8 acres. It contains 11 courts, 100 stair- cases, and 1100 apartments, and has cost in all about 3,000,000i. Although so costly a national structure, some serious defects are observable; the external stone is gradually crumbling, and the building stands on so low a level that the basement rooms are said to be lower than the Thames at high tide. The Clock Tower (St. Stephen s Tower), at the N. end, next to Westminster Bridge, is 318 ft. high; the Middle Tower is 300 ft. high ; and the S.W. Victoria Tower, the largest of the three, through which the Queen enters on the opening and prorogation of Parliament, attains a height of 340 ft. The large clock has four dials, each 23 ft. in dia- meter, and it takes five hours to wind up the striking parts. The great Bell of the Clock Tower, popularly known as 'Big Ben' (named after Sir Benjamin Hall, Chief Commissioner of Works at the time of its erection) is one of the largest known, weighing no less ^ SPEAKER 'S I i COURT L— ^Jl~J Seograpi.. Ati stalt Ton !)*>>» B. Leipzig iiit' °r°-'i -'-v w nt 17. HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 185 than 13 tons. It was soon found to have a flaw or crack, and its tone became shrill, but the crack was filed open, so as to prevent vibra- tion, and the tone became quite pure. It is heard in calm weather over the greater part of London. The imposing river front (E.J of the edifice is 940 ft. in length. It is adorned with statues of the English monarchs from William the Conqueror down to Queen Victoria, with armorial bearings, and many other enrichments. — The old Law Courts, on the W. side, have been removed. The impression produced by the interior is in its way no less imposing than that ot the exterior. The tasteful fitting up of the different rooms, some of which are adorned down to the minutest details with lavish magnificence, is in admirable keeping with the office and dignity of the building. The Houses of Parliament are shown on Saturdays from 10 to 4, by tickets obtained gratis at the office of the Lord Chamberlain, to the E. of Victoria Tower. We enter on the W. side by a door ad- jacent to the Victoria Tower (public entrance also through West- minster Hall). Police-constables, stationed in eacli room, hurry visitors through the building in a most uncomfortable fashion, scarcely giving time for more than a glance at the objects of interest. The crypt is not now shown. Handbook Is. (unnecessary). Ascending the staircase from the entrance door, we first reach the Norman Porch, a small square hall, with Gothic groined vault- ing, and borne by a finely clustered central pillar. We next enter (to the right) the Queen's Robing Room, a handsome chamber, 45 ft. in length, the chief feature in which is formed by the fresco paintings by Mr. Dyce, representing the virtues of chivalry, the sub- jects being taken from the Legend of King Arthur. Above the fire- place the three virtues illustrated are Courtesy, Religion, and Generosity; on the N. side are Hospitality and Mercy. The flue dado panelling with carvings illustrative of Arthurian legends, the rich ceiling, the flreplace, the doors, the flooring, and the state chair at the E. end of the room are all worthy of notice. Next comes the Royal or Victoria Gallery, 110 ft. long, through which the Queen, issuing from the Queen's Robing Room on the S., proceeds in solemn procession to the House of Peers, for the purpose of opening or proroguing Parliament. On these occasions privileged persons are admitted into this hall by orders obtained at the Lord Chamber- lain's Office (see above). The pavement consists of fine mosaic work ; the ceiling is panelled and richly gilt. The sides are adorned with two large frescoes in water-glass by Maclise; on the left, Death of Nelson at Trafalgar (comp. p. 145), and on the right, Meeting of Bliicher and Wellington after Waterloo. The Prince's Chamber, the smaller apartment entered on quit- ting the Victoria Gallery, is a model of simple magnificence, being- decorated with dark wood in the style for which the middle ages are famous. Opposite the door is a group in marble by Gibson, 186 17. HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. representing Queen Victoria enthroned, with allegorical figures of Clemency and Justice. The stained-glass -^vindows on the W. and E. exhibit the rose, thistle, and shamrock, the emblems of Eng- land, Scotland, and Ireland. Above, in the panels of the hand- some wainscot, is a series of portraits of English monarchs and their relatives of the Tudor period (_1485-1603). These are as follows, beginning to the left of the entrance door: 1. Louis XII. of France; 2. Mary, daughter of Henry VII. of England and wife of Louis-, 3. Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, Mary's second hus- band; 4. Marquis of Dorset; 5. Lady Jane Grey; 6. Lord Guildford Dud- ley, her husband; 7. James IV. of Scotland ; 8. (^ueen Margaret, daughter of Henry VII. of England and wife of James (through this princess the Stuarts derived their" title to the English throne); 9. Earl of Angus, sec- ond husband of Margaret, and Regent of Scotland ; 10. James V. ; 11. Mary of Guise, wife of James V.. and mother of JIary Stuart; 12. Queen Mary Stuart; 13. Francis II. of France, Mary Stuarts first husband; 14. Lord Darnley, her second husband; 15. Henry VII.; 16. Elizabeth, daughter of Edward IV.. and wife of Henry (this marriage put an end to the Wars of the Roses, by uniting the Houses of York and Lancaster); 17. Arthur, Prince of Wales; IS. Catharine of Arragou; 19. Henry VIII.; 20. Anne Boleyn ; 21. Jane Seymour ; 22. Anne of Cleves ; 23. Catharine Howard ; 24. Catharine Parr; 25. Edward VI.; 20. Queen Mary of England ; 27. Philip of Spain, her husband; 28. Queen Elizabeth. ()ver these portraits runs a frieze with oak leaves and acorns and the armorial hearings of the English sovereigns since the Con- quest ; below, in the sections of the panelling, are 12 reliefs in oak, representing events in English history (^Tudor period). Two doors lead from this room into the *Housb of Peers, which is sumptuously decorated in the richest Gothic style. The oblong chamber, in which the peers of England sit in council, is 90 ft. in length 45 ft. broad, and 45 ft. high. The floor is almost entirely oc- cupied, with the red leather benches of the 434 members. The twelve fine stained-glass windows contain portraits of all the kings and queens of England since the Conquest. At night the House is lighted from the outside througli these windows. Eighteen niches between the windows are occupied by statues of the barons who extorted the Magna Charta from King John, The very handsome walls and ceiling are decorated with heraldic and other emblems. Above, in recesses at the upper and lower ends of the room, are six frescoes, the first attempts on a large scale of modern English art in this department of painting. That on the wall above the throne, in the centre, represents the Baptism of King Ethelbert (about 596), by Dyce ; to the left of it, Edward III. investing his son, the "Black Prince', with the Order of the Garter; on the right, Henry, sun of Henry IV., acknow- ledging the authority of Judge Gascoigne, who had committed the Prince to prison for striking him, both by Cope. — Opposite, at the N. end of the chamber, three symbolical jdctures of the Spirits of Religiun, Justice, and Chivalry, the first by Hovsley. the other two by Maclise. At the S. end of the hall, raised by a few steps, and covered with a richly gilded canopy, is the magnificent throne of the Queen. On the right of it is the lower throne of the Prince of Wales, while on the left is that intended for the sovereign's consort. At the sides are two large gilt candelabra. The celebrated woolsack of the Lord Chancellor, a kiiul of 17. HOUSES OF PARIJAMRNT. 187 cushioned ottoman , stands in front of the throne, almost in the centre of the hall. — At the N. end of the chamber, opposite the throne, is the Bur, where official communications from the Com- mons to the Lords are delivered , and where law-suits on final appeal are pleaded. Above the Bar are the galleries for the re- porters and for strangers. Above the throne on either side are seats for foreign ambassadors and other distinguished visitors. From the House of Lords we pass into the Pkeus' Lohky, another rectangular apartment, richly fitted up, with a door on each side. The brass foliated wings of the southern door are well worthy of examination. The corners contain elegant candelabra of brass. The encaustic tiled pavement, with a fine enamel inlaid with brass in the centre, is of great beauty. Each peer has in this lobby his own hat-peg, etc., provided with his name. The door on the left (W.) side leads into the Peers' Robing Room (not always shown), which is decorated with frescoes by Her- bert. Two only have been finished (Moses bringing the Tables of the Law from Sinai, and the Judgment of Daniel). The door on the N. side opens on the Peers' Corridor, the way to the Central Hall and the House of Commons. This corridor is em- bellished with the following eight frescoes (beginning on the left) : — L Burial of Charles I. (beheaded 1649); 2. Expulsion of the Fellows of a college at Oxford for refusing to subscribe to the Covenant; 3. Defence of Basing House by the Cavaliers against the Roundheads; 4. Charles I. erecting his standard at Nottingham; 5. Speaker Lenthall vindicating the rights of the House of Commons against Charles I. on his attempt to arrest the five members ; 6. Departure of the London train-bands to the relief of Gloucester; 7. Embarkment of the Pilgrim Fathers for New England; 8. Lady Russell taking leave of her husband before his execution. The spacious *Central Hall, in the middle of the building, is octagonal in shape, and richly decorated. It is 60ft. in diameter and 75 ft. high. The surfaces of the stone-vaulting, between the massive and richly embossed ribs, areinlaid with Venetian mosaics, representing in frequent repetition the heraldic emblems of the Eng- lish crown, viz. the rose, shamrock, thistle, portcullis, and harp. Lofty portals lead from this hall into ( N.) the Corridor to the House of Commons ; to ( W.) St. Stephen's Hall ; to (E.) the Waiting-Hall (see below); and (S. ) the House of Peers (see above). Above the last door is a representation, in glass mosaic, of St. George, by Foynter. Here, too, are statues of Lord John Russell (d. 1878) and Lord .Iddesleigh (d. 1887). The niches at the sides of the portals bear statues of English sove- reigns. At the W. door: on the left, Edward 1., his consort Eleanor, and Edward IL ; on the right, Isabella, wife of King John, Henry HI., and Eleanor, his wife. At the N. door: on the left, Lsabella, wife of Edward IL, Henry IV., and Edward III. ; on the right, Richard U., his consort, Anne of Bohemia, and Philippa , wife of Edward III. At the E. door: on the left, Jane of Navarre, wife of Henry IV., Henry V., and his wife Catha- rine; on the right, Henry VI., Margaret, his wife, andEdwardVI. At the S .door: on the left, Elizabeth, wife of Edward IV., Edward V., and Ricli- ardllL; (m the right, Anne, wife of Richard III., Henry VIL, and his con- sort Elizabeth. The niches in the windows are filled with similar statue.s. 188 17. HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. Round the handsome mosaic pavement runs the inscription (in the Latin of the Vulgate), 'Except the Lord keep the house , their labour is but lost that build it'. A door on the E. side of the Central Hall leads to the Haxl of THE Poets, also called the Upper Waiting Hall [not always shown). It contains the following frescoes of scenes from English poetry : — Griselda's first trial of patience, from Chaucer, by Cope ; St. George conquering the Dragon, from Spenser, by Watts; King Lear disinheriting his daughter Cordelia, from Shakspeare, by Herbert ; Satan touched by the spear of Ithuriel, from Milton, by Horsley ; St. Cecilia, from Dryden, by Tenniel ; Personification of the Thames, from Pope, by Armitage ; Death of Marmion, from Scott, by Armitage ; Death of Lara, from Byron, by W. fJyce. Beyond the N. door of the Central Hall, and corresponding with the passage leading to the House of Lords in the opposite direction, is the Commons' Corridor, leading to the House of Commons. It is also adorned with 8 frescoes, as follows (beginning on the left) : — 1. Alice Lisle concealing fugitive Cavaliers after the battle of Sedge- moor; 2. Last sleep of the Duke of Argyll; 3. The Lords and Commons delivering the crown to William and Jlary in the Banqueting Hall ; 4. Acquittal of the Seven Bishops in the reign of James II. (comp. p. 190j; 5. Monk declaring himself in favour of a free parliament; 6. Landing of Charles II. ; 7. The executioner hanging Wishart's book round the neck of Montrose ; 8. Jane Lane helping Charles II. to escape, We next pass through the Commons' Lobby to the — House of Commons, 75 ft. in length, 45 ft. wide, and 41 ft. high, very substantially and handsomely fitted up with oak-panel- ling , in a simpler and more business-like style than the House of Lords. The present ceiling, which hides the original one, was con- structed to improve the lighting and ventilation. The members of tlie House (670 in number, though seats are provided for 476 only) enter either by the public approach, or by a private entrance through a side-door to the E. of Westminster Hall and along an arcade between this hall and the Star Chamber Court. The twelve stained glass windows are adorned with the armorial bearings of parliamen- tary boroughs. In the evening the House is lighted through the glass panels of the ceiling. The seat of the Speaker or president is at theN. end of the chamber, in a straight line with the woolsack in the House of Lords. The benches to the right of the Speaker are the recognised seats of the Government Party; the ministers occupy the first bench. On the left of the Speaker are the members forming the Opposition, the leaders of which also take their seats on the first bench. In front of the Speakers table is the Clerks' table, on which lies the Mace. The Reporters' Gallery is above the speaker, while above it again, behind an iron grating, are the seats for ladies. At the S. end of the House, opposite the Speaker, are the galleries for strangers. The upper, or Strangers" Gallery, can be visited by an order from a Member of Parliament. To the lower, i 17. HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 189 or Speakers Gallery, admission is granted only on the Speakers order, obtained by a member. The row of seats in front of the Speaker's Gallery is appropriated to members of the peerage and to distinguished strangers. The galleries at the sides of the House are for the use of members, and are considered to form part of the House. The seats underneath the galleries, on a level with the floor of the House, but outside the bar , are appropriated to members of the diplomatic corps and to distinguished strangers. Permission to be present at the debates of the Lower House can be obtained only from a member of parliament. The House of Lords, when sitting as a Court of Appeal, is open to the public; on other occasions a peer's order is necessary. On each side of the House of Commons is a ^Division Lohby\ into which the members pass, when a vote is taken, for the purpose of being counted. The '■Ayes\ or those who are favourable to the motion, retire into the W. lobby, to the right of the Speaker; the ^Noes\ or those who vote against the motion, retire into the E. lobby, to the Speaker's left. Returning to the Central Hall we pass through the door at its western (right) extremity, leading to St. Stephen's Hall, which is 75 ft. long, 30 ft. broad, and 55 ft. high. It occupies the site of old St. Stephen's Chapel , founded in 1330, and long used for meetings of the Commons. Along the walls are marble statues of celebrated English statesmen : on the left (S.), Hampden , Selden , Sir Robert Walpole , Lord Chatham , his son Pitt, and the Irish orator Grattan ; on the right (N.) , Lord Claren- don, Lord Falkland, Lord Somers, Lord Mansfield, Fox, and Burke. The niches at the sides of the doors are occupied by statues of English sovereigns. By the E. door : on the left, Matilda, Henry II., Eleanor; on the right, Richard Coeur de Lion, Berengaria, and John. By the W. door: on the left, William the Conqueror, Matilda, William II; on the right, Henry I. Beauclerc, Matilda, and Stephen. A broad flight of steps leads hence through St. Stephen's Porch (62 ft. in height), passing a large stained-glass window, and turning to the right, to Westminster Hall, The present Westminster Hall is part of the ancient Palace of Westminster founded by the Anglo-Saxon kings, and occupied by their successors down to Henry VIII. The hall was begun by William Rufus , son of the Conqueror, in 1097, continued and extended by Henry III. and Edward I., and almost totally destroyed by fire in 1291. Edward II. afterwards began to rebuild it ; and in 1398 Richard II. caused it to be remodelled and enlarged, supplying it with a new roof. It is one of the largest halls in the world with a wooden ceiling unsupported by columns. Its length is 290 ft., breadth G.Sft., and height 92 ft. The oaken roof, with its hammer-beams, repaired in 1820 with the wood of an old vessel in 190 17. HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. Portsmouth Harbour, is considered a masterpiece of timber archi- tecture, both in point of beauty and constructive skill. Westminster Hall , which now forms a vestibule to the Houses of Parliament, is rich in interesting historical associations. In it were held some of the earliest English parliaments, one of which declared Edward II. to have forfeited the crown; and by a curious fatality the first scene of public importance in the new hall, as restored or rebuilt by Richard II., was the deposition of that unfortunate monarch. In this hall the English monarchs down to George IV. gave their coronation festivals; and here Edward III. entertained the captive kings, David of Scotland and John of France. Here Charles I. was condemned to death; and here, a few years later (1653), Cromwell, wear- ing the royal purple lined with ermine, and holding a golden sceptre in one hand and the Bible in the other, was saluted as Lord Protector. AVithin eight years afterwards the Protector's body was rudely dragged from its resting-place in Westminster Abbey and thrust into a pit at Tyburn, while his head was exposed with those of Bradshaw and Ireton on the pinnacles of this same Westminster Hall, where it remained for 30 years. A high wind at last carried it to the ground. After some years the family of the sentry who picked it up sold it to one of the Russells, a distant descendant of Cromwell, and it passed finally into the possession of Dr. Wil- kinson, one of whose descendants, living at Sevenoaks, Kent, is said now to possess it. There is some evidence, however, to the effect that the Protector's body, after its exhumation, was buried in Red Lion Square, and that another, substituted for it, was deprived of its head and buried at Tyburn. Either story serves to illustrate the horrible barbarity of that unhappy juncture. Many other famous historical characters were condemned to death in Westminster Hall , including William Wallace , the brave champion of Scotland's liberties ; Sir John Oldcastle , better known as Lord Cobham ; Sir Thomas More ; the Protector Somerset ; Sir Thomas Wyatt ; Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex ; Guy Fawkes ; and the Earl of Strafford. Among other notable events transacted at Westminster Hall was the acquittal of the Seven Bishops, who had been committed to the Tower for their opposition to the illegal dispensing power of James II. ; the condemnation of the Scotch lords Kilmarnock, Balmerino, and Lovat ; the trial of Lord Byron (grand-uncle of the poet) for killing Mr. Chaworth in a duel ; the condemnation of Lord Ferrars for murdering his valet ; and the ac- quittal ofWarren Hastings, after a trial which (^including numerous postponements) had lasted seven years. The last public festival held in Westminster Hall was at the coronation of George IV., when the King's champion in full armour rode into the hall, and, according to ancient custom , threw his gauntlet on the floor, challenging to mortal combat anyone who might 17. ST. MARGARET'S CHURCH. 191 dispute tlie title of the sovereign. The ceremony of swearing in the Lord Mayor took place here for the last time in 1882, and is now performed in the new Law Courts (p. 139). On theE. side of the hall are placed the following marble statues (beginning from the left) : Mary, wife of William III., James 1., Charles I., Charles II., William III., George IV., William IV. From the first landing of the staircase leading to St. Stephen's Hall a narrow door to the left (E.) leads to St. Stephen's Crypt (properly the Church of St. Marys Undercroft ; not now shown), a low vaulted structure supported by columns , measuring 90 ft. in length, 28 ft. in breadth , and 20 ft. in height. It was erected by King Stephen, rebuilt by Edwards II. and III., and, after having long fallen to decay, has recently been thoroughly restored and richly decorated with painting and gilding. St. Stephen's Clois- ters^ on the E. side of Westminster Hall, were built by Henry VIII. and have been lately restored. They are beautifully adorned with carving, groining, and tracery, but are not open to the public. The other multifarious portions of this immense pile of buildings include 18 or 20 official residences of various sizes, libraries, committee rooms, and dining, refreshment, and smoking rooms. The number of statues, outside and inside, is about five hundred. On the W. side of Westminster Hall, and to the N. of the Abbey, stands St. Margaret's Church (Pl.Ii, 25; /F), which, down to 1858, used to be attended by the House of Commons in state on four days in the year , as then prescribed in the Prayer Book. It was erected in the time of Edward I. on the site of an earlier church built by Edward the Confessor in 1064, and was greatly altered and improved under Edward IV. The stained-glass window of the Crucifixion at the E. end was executed at Gouda in Holland, and is said to have been a gift from the town of Dordrecht to Henry VII. Henry VIII. presented it to Waltham Abbey. At the time of the Commonwealth it was concealed , and after various vicissitudes it was at length purchased in 1758 by the church- wardens of St. Margaret's for 400i., and placed in its present position. William Caxton, whose printing-press was set up in 1476-77 in the almonry, formerly standing near the W. front of Westminster Abbey, was buried here in 1491. From the fact of a chapel existing in the old almonry , printers' work - shops and also guildmeetings of printers are still called 'chapels'. Sir Walter Raleigh, who was executed in front of the palace of Westminster in 1618, was buried in the chancel. The church, the interior of which has been lately restored, is open daily. 9-1 and 2-4.30, except Sat. afternoon (entr. by the E. or vestry door, facing West- minster Hall). At the E. end of the S. aisle is a stained-glass window placed here by the printers in 1882 in memory of Caxton, containing his portrait, with the Venerable Bede on his right and Erasmus on his left. On a tablet below the window is a verse by Tennyson, referring to Caxtons motto, 192 17. ST. MARGARET'S CHURCH. '■Fial lux. Adjacent is a brass memorial of Raleigh. The large and hand- some window over the W. door was put up by Americans to the memory of Sir Walter Raleigh in 1S82; it contains portraits of Raleigh and several of his distinguished contemporaries, and also scenes connected with the life of Raleigh and the colonisation of America. The poetic inscription on the Raleigh window was written by Mr. .J. Russell Lowell. There are also windows in the S. wall in memory of Lord and Lady Hatherley, Sir Thomas Erskine May (d. 1886), the great authority on Constitutional Law. etc., and also one erected in 1887 in memory of Queen Victoria's Jubilee, with an inscription by Browning. The window at the W. end of the S. aisle commemorates Lord Frederick Cavendish, assassinated at Dublin in 1882. At the W. end of the K. aisle is a memorial window (erected by Mr. G. W. Childs) to John Milton, whose second wife and infant child are buried here and whose banns are in the parish register; the inscrip- tion is by Whittier. In the >'. wall is a window to Admiral Blake (d. 1657), 'chief founder of England's naval supremacy', who wa? buried in St. Mar- garet's churchyard after being exhumed from Westminster Abbey. Besides Raleish and C'axton, the church shelters the remains of Skelton (d. 1529), the satirist, and James Harrington (d. 1677), author of 'Oceana'. Some of the old monuments are interesting. In Old Palace Yard, to the S., between the Houses of Parlia- ment and Westminster Ahhey, rises an Equestrian Statue of Richard Coeur de Lion, in bronze, by Marochetti. To the N. of St. Margarets, in Parliament Square, opposite the entrance into New Palace Yard, stands the bronze Statue of the Earl of Derby (d. 1869\ in the robes of a peer, 10 ft. high, by Noble, erected in 1874. The granite pedestal bears four reliefs in bronze, representing his career as a statesman. A little to the spectator's right is a bronze statue of Lord Palmerston ( d. 1865), and on the N. side of the square is that of Sir Robert Peel (d. 1850). On the W. side of the square is the bronze Statue of Canning (d. 1827"), by Westmacott , near which , at the corner of Great George Street, is a handsome Gothic fountain, erected in 1865 as a memorial to the distinguished men who brought about the abolition of slavery in the British dominions. On the S. side is a bronze Statue of Lord Beaconsfield (d. 1881), in the robes of the Garter, by Raggi, unveiled in April. 1883. The visitor should not quit this spot without a glance at King Street , the only thoroughfare in earlier times, before Parliament Street was made, from "Whitehall to Westminster. At the North end of this street, demolished to make room for the new Govern- ment Offices, stood Holbeins great gate. Spenser, the poet, spent his last days in this street, and he was carried hence to "West- minster Abbey. Cromwell's mother lived here , often visited by her affectionate son; so did Dr. Sydenham, Lord North, Bishop Goodman, and at one time Oliver Cromwell himself. Through this street, humble as it now looks, all the pageants from Whitehall to the Abbey and Westminster Hall passed, whether for burial, coronation, or state trials. Parliament Street was only opened in 173*2. long after Whitehall had ceased to be a royal residence, and was carried through the old privy garden of "Whitehall. *Westmiiister' Bridge (Pl.R, 29; /T), erected in 1856-62, by 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 193 Page, at a cost of 250,000f., on the site of an earlier stone bridge, is 1160 ft. long and 85 ft. broad (carriage-way 53 ft., side-walks each 15 ft.). It consists of seven iron arches borne by granite buttresses, the central arch having a span of 120 ft., the others of 114 ft. The bridge is one of the handsomest in London, and affords an admirable view of the Houses of Parliament. It was the view from this bridge that suggested Wordsworth's fine sonnet, beginning 'Earth has not anything to show more fair'. Below the bridge, on the left bank, is the beginning of the Victoria Embankment (p. 113); above, on the right bank, is the Albert Embankment, with the extensive Hospital of St. Thomas (p. 297j. 18. Westminster Abbey. Westminster Column. Westminster School. Westminster Hospital. Royal Aquarium. On the low ground on the left bank of the Thames, where Westminster Abbey now stands , once overgrown with thorns and surrounded by water , and therefore called Thorney Isle , a church is said to have been erected in honour of St. Peter by the Anglo- Saxon king Sebert about 616. With the church was connected a Benedictine religious house (monasterium, or minster), which, in reference to its position to the W. of the Cistercian Abbey of St. Mary of the Graces (Eastminster ; see p. 125), was called **West- minster Abbey (PL R, 25 ; /7J. The church, after having been destroyed by the Danes, appears to have been re-erected by King Edgar in 985. The regular establish- ment of the Abbey, however, may be ascribed to Edward the Confessor, who built a church here which seems to have been almost as large as the present one (1049-65). The Abbey was entirely rebuilt in the latter half of the 13th cent, by Henry III. and his son Ed- ward I., who left it substantially in its present condition, though important alterations and additions were made in the two succeed- ing centuries. The Chapel of Henry VII. was erected by that mon- arch at the beginning of the 16th cent., and the towers were added by Sir C. Wren and Hawkesmore in 1722-40. At the Reformation the Abbey,which had been richly endowed by the liberality of former kings, shared in the general fate of the religious houses; its property was confiscated, and the church converted into the cathedral of a bis- hopric, which lasted only from 1540 to 1550. Under Queen Mary the monks returned, but Elizabeth restored the arrangements of Henry VIII., and conveyed the Abbey to a Dean, who presided over a chapter of 12 Canons. — The title Archbishop of Westminster, re- cently created by the Pope, is not officially recognised in England. Westminster Abbey t , with its royal burial-vaults and long series t The best guide to Westminster Abbey is the Deuntry Guide (illustratoil) of the Pall Mall Gazette (price 6 c/.). Baedeker, London. 7th Edit. 13 194 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. P A L A c e 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 195 of monuments to celebrated men, is not unreasonably regarded by the English as their national Walhalla, or Temple of Fame ; and in- terment within its walls is considered the last and greatest honour which the nation can bestow on the most deserving of her offspring. The honour has often, however, been conferred on persons unworthy of it, and even on children. 'The spaciousness and gloom of this vast edifice produce a profound and mysterious awe. We step cautiously and softly about, as if fearful of disturbing the hallowed silence of the tomb; while every footfall whispers along the walls, and chatters among the sepulchres, making us more sensible of the quiet we have interrupted. It seems as if the awful nature of the place presses down upon the soul, and hushes the beholder into noiseless reverence. We feel that we are surrounded by the con- gregated bones of the great men of past times , who have filled history with their deeds, and the earth with their renown". — Washington Irving. The church is in the form of a Latin cross. The much admired chapel at the E. end is in the Perpendicular style. The other parts of the church, with the exception of the unpleasing and incongruous W. towers by Wren, and a few doubtful Norman remains, are Early English. The impression produced by the interior is very striking, owing to the harmony of the proportions, the lichness of the colour- ing, and the beauty of the Purbeck marble columns and of the tri- forium. In many respects, however, the effect is sadly marred by restorations and by the egregiously bad taste displayed in several of the monuments. The choir extends beyond the transept into the nave, from which it is separated by an iron screen. In front of the altar is a curious old mosaic pavement with tasteful arabesques, brought from Rome in 1268 by Abbot Ware. The fine wood-work of the choir was executed in 1848. The organ was entirely rebuilt by Mr. Hill in 1884, and stands at the two extremities of the screen between the choir and the nave. The very elaborate and handsome reredos, erected in 1867, is chiefly composed of red and white alabaster. The large figures in the niches represent Moses, St. Peter, St. Paul, and David. The recess above the table con- tains a fine Venetian glass mosaic, by Salviati^ representing the Last Supper. In the S. bay of the sanctuary is a portrait of Richard II. on panel, formerly in the Jerusalem Chamber, the oldest contemporary representation of an English sovereign. Behind it is some old tapestry from Westminster School, with the names of Westminster scholars painted on its ends. The Abbey, or, as it is officially termed, the Collegiate Church of St. Peter, is now decorated with upwards of 20 stained-glass windows. The total length of the church, including the chapel of Henry VII., is 513 ft. ; length of the transept from N. to S., 200 ft. ; breadth of nave and aisles, 75 ft., of transept, 80 ft. ; height of the church, 102 ft., of towers, 225 ft. The Abbey may be entered by the door in the N. transept, near St. Margaret's Church, by the principal portal at the W. end, or by the door in the Poets" Corner or S. transept. The nave, aisles, 13* 196 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. and transept are open gratis to the public daily (Sundays excepted), except during the hours of divine seryice, till 4 p.m. in winter and 6 p.m. in summer. Daily service at 8.30 (8 on Sun.), 10, and 3 o'clock. In summer there is a special Sunday service in the nave at 7p.m. A charge of 6cZ. (except on Mondays and Tuesdays) is made for admission to the chapels, which are only shown to visitors accompanied by a verger. As the verger announces with a loud voice when he is about to conduct a party round the chapels, the visitor may continue to inspect the other parts of the Abbey until thus summoned. Visitors are cautioned against accepting the useless services of any of the numerous loiterers outside the church. The following list of the most interesting monuments which do not invariably imply interment in the Abbey, begins with theN. transept, and continues through the N. aisle, the S. aisle, and the S. transept (Poets' Corner), after which we enter the chapels. N. Tkansept. On the right, William Pitt, Lord Chatham, the statesman (d. 1778), a large monument by Bacon. Above, in a niche, Chatham is represented in an oratorical attitude , with his right hand out- stretched ; at his feet are sitting two female figures, Wisdom and Courage; in the centre, Britannia with a trident; to the right and left, Earth and Sea. — Opposite — L. John Holies, Duke of Newcastle (d. 1711); large monument by Bird, in a debased style. The sarcophagus bears the semi-re- cumbent figure of the Duke ; to the right is Truth with her mirror, on the left, AVisdom ; above, on the columns and over the armorial bearings, Genii. — Adjacent — L. *George Canning, the statesman (d. 1827); statue by Cfian- trey. — Adjacent, his son — L. Charles John, Viscount Canning, Governor-General of India (d. 1862), statue by Foley. Close by is their relative, Viscount Stratford de Redcliffe (d. 1880), long British ambassador in Constantinople ; statue by Boehm, with an epitaph by Tennyson. Adjacent, Lord Beaconsfield (d. 1881), statue by Boehm. R. Lord Palmerston, the statesman (d. 1865); statue by Jack- son, in the costume of a Knight of the Garter. — Adjoining — R. William Bayne , William Blair , and Lord Manners , naval officers who 'were mortally wounded in the course of the naval en- gagements under the command of Admiral Sir George Brydges Rodney on the 9th and 12th of April, 1782', by Nollekens. L. William Cavendish, Duke of Newcastle (d. 1676), and his wife ; a double sarcophagus, with recumbent figures in the costume of the period, under a rich canopy. — Adjacent — L. Sir John Malcolm, General (d. 1833), one of the chief pro- moters of the English power in India ; statue by Chantrey. 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 197 L. *Sir Peter Warren, Admiral (d. 1752), by Rouhiliac. Her- cules places the bust of the Admiral on a pedestal, while Navi- gation looks on with mournful admiration. — Opposite — R. Robert , Marquis of Londonderry and Viscount Castlereagh, the statesman (d. 1822); statue by Thomas. The scroll in his hand bears the (now scarcely legible) inscription, 'Peace of Paris, 1814'. Next to it — L. * William, Lord Mansfield, the statesman and judge (d. 1793), by Flaxman. Above is the Judge on the judicial bench, in his official robes; on the left is Justice with her scales, on the right, Wisdom opening the book of the law. Behind the bench is Lord Mansfield's motto : ' uni squus virtuti' , with the ancient represen- tation of death, a youth bearing an extinguished torch. — Opposite, by the railing of the ambulatory — L. Sir Robert Peel, the statesman (d. 1850); statue by Gibson. Henry Grattan (d. 1820), Charles Fox (p. 199), and the two Pitts are all buried in this transept. It was the proximity here of the graves of Fox and the younger Pitt (p. 199) that suggested Scott's well-known lines : — 'Drop upon Fox's grave the tear, 'Twill trickle to his rival's bier'. W. Aisle of N. Transept. R. George Gordon, Earl of Aberdeen, the statesman [d. 1860); bust by Noble. R. ^Elizabeth Warren (d. 1816), widow of the Bishop of Bangor, by Westmacott. The fine monument represents, in half life-size, a poor mother sitting with her child in her arms, in allusion to the benevolence of the deceased. — Adjoining — R. Sir George Cornewall Lewis , statesman (d. 1863) ; bust by Weekes. — Adjacent — R. Sir Eyre Coote, General, Commander-in-Chief of the British forces in India (d. 1788); colossal monument by Banks, erected by the East India Company. R. Francis Horner, Member of Parliament (d. 1817); statue by Chantrey. — Opposite — L. Sir John Balchen, Admiral, who in 1744 was lost with his flag-ship and crew of nearly 1000 men in the English Channel ; with a relief of the wrecked vessel, by Scheemakers. R. General Hope, Governor of Quebec (d. 1789), by Bacon; a mourning Indian woman bends over the sarcophagus. — Above — R. Warren Hastings, Governor-General of India (d. 1818); bust by Bacon. — Above — Richard Cobden , the politician and champion of free-trade (d. 1865); bust by* WooZner. — Adjacent — R. Earl of Halifax, the statesman (d. 1771); bust by Bacon. At the end of the passage, in three niches in the wall above, separated by palm-trees, is the monument of — Admiral Watson (A. 1757), hy Scheemakers. The Admiral , in 193 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. a toga, is sitting in the centre, holding a palm branch. On the right the town of Calcutta on her knees presents a petition to her conqueror. On the left is an Indian in chains , emblematical of Chandernagore, also conquered by the Admiral. N. Aisle. On the left. Sir Thomas Powell Buxton [d. 1845), Member of Parliament , one of the champions of the movement for the abol- ition of slavery, by Thrupp. — Adjacent — L. Balfe (d. 1870), the composer, medallion by Mallempre. L. Hugh Chamberlain, physician (d. 1728), by Scheemakers and Delvaux; recumbent figure upon a sarcophagus ; on the right and left, two allegorical figures, representing Health and Medicine. R. Tablets to Charles Burney (d. 1814), the historian of music, and John Blow (d. 1708), the composer and organist. — Then — R. William Croft, organist of Westminster Abbey (d. 1727), with a bust. On the floor are the tombstones of Henry PurceU (d. 1695), organist of the abbey, and W. Sterndale Bennet(d. 1875), the composer. L. *Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, Governor of Java (d. 1826), sitting figure, by Chantrey. L. * William Wilberforce (d. 1833), one of the chief advocates for the emancipation of the slaves ; sitting figure, by Joseph. R. *George Lindsay Johnstone (d. 1815); fine monument by Flaxman, erected by the sister of the deceased. On a sarcophagus, with a small medallion of the deceased, is a mourning female figure. L. Lord John Thynne, D. D., Sub-Dean of the Abbey (d. 1881), recumbent figure by Armstead. To the left, at the end of the choir : — Sir Isaac Newton (d. 1726), by Rysbrack. The half recumbent figure of Newton reposes on a black sarcophagus, beside which are tv,o small Genii unfolding a scroll. Below is a relief in marble, in- dicating the labours of the deceased. Above is an allegorical figure of Astronomy upon a large globe. Charles Darwin (d. 1882), the eminent naturalist, and Sir John Herschel (d. 1871), the astronomer, are buried within a few yards of Newton's tomb (memorial slabs in the floor). — The window above is a memorial of Robert Stephenson (d. 1859), the engineer. In the N. aisle, farther on : — R. Richard Mead, the physician (d. 1754), with bust, by Schee- makers. — Above, in the window : — *Spencer Perceval, Chancellor of the Exchequer and First Lord of the Treasury, who w as murdered at Westmi»ster Hall in 1812, by Westmacott. Recumbent figure upon a sarcophagus ; at the head a mourning figure of Strength, and at the foot Truth and Mod- eration. The bas-relief above represents the murder ; the second figure to the left is that of the murderer, Bellingham. R. Mrs. Mary Beaufoy (d. 1705); group by Grinling Gibbons. 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 199 R. Robert Killigrew , General , killed at Almanza in Spain in 1707, by Bird. — In front of this monument Ben Jonson is buried (p. 203), with the words '0 Rare Ben Johnson ! ' cut in the pave- ment. Close by, under a modern brass, lies John Hunter (d. 1793), the celebrated surgeon and anatomist, brought here in 1859 from St. Martin's in the Fields. — The window above was erected to the memory of Isambard Brunei (d. 1859), the engineer. R., above, Sir Charles Lyell, the geologist (d. 1875), bust by Theed. R. * Charles James Fox ^ the famous statesman [d. 1806), by Westmacott. The figure of the deceased lies on a couch, and is supported by the arms of Liberty ; at his feet are Peace, with an olive branch, and a liberated negro slave. R. *Captain Montagu (d. 1794), by Flaxman. Statue on a lofty pedestal, crowned by the Goddess of Victory. R. Sir James Mackintosh, the historian (d. 1832); bust by Theed. R. George Tierney , the orator (d. 1830); bust by Westmacott. R. Marquis of Lansdowne (d. 1863); bust hy Boehm. R. Lord Holland, the statesman (d. 1840); large monument, by Baily. Below is the entrance to a vault, on the steps to which on the left the Angel of Death , and on the right Literature and Science are posted. R. John, Earl Russell [d. 1878), bust. R. Zachary Macaulay (d. 1838) , the father of Lord Macaulay, and a noted advocate for the abolition of slavery; bust by Weekes . Having now reached the end of the N. aisle, we turn to the left ( S.), where on the N. side of the principal (W.) Entrance, at the end of the nave, we observe the monuments of — Anthony Ashley Cooper, Earl of Shaftesbury (d. 1885), a marble statue by Boehm, and — Jeremiah Horrocks , the astronomer (d. 1641). Above the door is the monument of — * William Pitt, the renowned statesman (d. 1806), by Westma- cott. At the top stands the statue of Pitt as Chancellor of the Exchequer, in the act of speaking. To the right is History listen- ing to his words ; on the left. Anarchy in chains. On the S. side of the door is the monument of Admiral Sir Thomas Hardy [d. 1732), by Cheere. R. James Corneu'aiZ, Captain (d. 1743), a monument by Tayler. At the foot of a low pyramid of Sicilian marble is a grotto in white marble, with a relief of the naval battle of Toulon, in which Cornewall fell. The monument terminates above in a palm-tree with the armorial bearings. S. Aisle. In the baptistery at the W. end : — James Craggs, Secretary of State (d. 1721); statue hy Guelphi. with inscription by Pope. 200 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. William Wordsworth, the poet (d. 1850); statue by L Rev. John Keble (d. 1866); bust by Woolner. The baptistery also contaius busts, by Woolner, of the Rev. Fred. D. Maurice (d. 1872) and thejRey. Charles King sley {^. 1875), and a bronze medallion of Professor Henry Fawcett (d. 1884), by Alfred Gilbert, with a row of small allegorical figures. The stained- glass windows were placed here by Mr. George W. Childs of Phil- adelphia in memory of George Herbert (d. 1632) and William Cowper (d. 1800). We now continue to follow the S. aisle. To the right, above the door leading to the Deanery, is the Abbot s Pew, a small oaken gallery, constructed by Abbot Islip in the 16th century. On the right: William Congreve , the dramatist (d. 1728), by Bird, with a medallion and a sarcophagus of Egyptian marble. The monument was erected by Henrietta, Duchess of Marlborough. R. William Buckland , the geologist (d. 1856), bust by Weekes. R. Lord Lawrence (d. 1879), Governor-General of India ; bust by Woolner. Then, above the door leading to the cloisters (see p. 217) — *George Wade, General [d. 1748), tty Roubiliac. The Goddess of Fame is preventing Time from destroying the General's trophies, which are attached to a column. R. Sir James Outram, General (d. 1863) ; bust by Noble. Below are Outram and Lord Clyde shaking hands, and between them is General Havelock. At the sides are mourning figures, representing Indian tribes. — Above, occupying the whole recess of the window — R. William Hargrave, General (d. 1750), by Roubiliac. The General is descending from his sarcophagus, while Time, represent- ed allegorically, conquers Death and breaks his arrow, — Adjacent is a tablet recording the burial in the Nave of Sir William Temple (d. 1699) and his wife, Dorothy Osborne (d. 1695). Sidney, Earl Godolphin [d. HIT), Lord High Treasurer, hy Bird. R. Colonel Townshend, who fell in Canada in 1759, by Eck- stein. Two Indian warriors bear the white marble sarcophagus, which is adjoined by a pyramid of coloured Sicilian marble. R. John Andre, Major, executed in America as a spy in 1780. Sarcophagus with mourning Britannia, by Van Gelder. — Opposite, in the nave, by the end of the choir : — James , Earl Stanhope , ambassador and minister of war (d. 1720), by Rysbrack. — Then, returning to the N. aisle : — L. Thomas Thynne, murdered in Pall Mall in 1682 by assassins hired by Count Koningsmarck , whose object was the hand of Thynne's wife, a wealthy heiress, by Quellin. The relief on the pedestal is a representation of the murder. R. Dr. Isaac Watts, the famous divine and hymn-writer (d. 1748), with bust by Banks. R. John Wesley, founder of the Methodists (d. 1791), and Charles Wesley (d. 1788), by Van Gelder, relief by Adams-Acton. 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 201 R. Charles Burney, philologist (d. 1818); bust by Gahaqan. L. Thomas Owen, judge (d. 1598); an' interesting old painted monument, with a life-size recumbent figure leaning on the right arm. — By the adjoining pillar — L. Pasquale Paoli (d. 1807); the well-known Corsican general (buried in Corsica); bust by Flaxman. — Opposite — R. Sir Cloudesley Shovel, Admiral (d. 1707), by Bird, recumbent figure under a canopy. — Above — Sir Godfrey Kneller, the painter (d. 1723), hy Rysbrack; bust under a canopy. The monument was designed by Kneller himself, who is the only painter commemorated in the abbey. He was buried in his own garden, at Kneller Hall, Twickenham. Here is a door leading to the E. walk of the cloisters and to the chapter-house (p. 216). L. Sir Thomas Richardson, judge (d. 1634), old monument by Le Soeur. L. Dr. Andrew Bell, the founder of the Madras system of edu- cation (d. 1832), with relief representing him examining a class of boys, by Behnes. In the middle of the nave lie, amongst others, David Living- stone, the celebrated African traveller (d. 1873), Sir Charles Barry, the architect (d. 1860), Robert Stephenson, the engineer [d. 1859), Lord Clyde (d. 1863), Sir James Outram (d. 1863; the 'Bayard of India'), Sir George Pollock (d. 1872), Lord Lawrence (d. 1879), Sir G. G. Scott, the architect (d. 1878 ; with a brass by Street'), and G. E. Street [d. 1881), the architect of the New Law Courts. We now turn to the right and enter the — S. Transept and Poets' Corner. On the right: George Grote, the historian [d. 1871); bust by Bacon. — Adjacent is the monument of Bishop Thirlwall (d. 1875), the eminent historian of Greece. R. William Camden, the antiquary (d. 1623), small statue. — Above — David Garrick, the famous actor [d. 1779) ; large group in relief, by Webber. Garrick is stepping out from behind a curtain, which he opens with extended arms. Below are the comic and the tragic Muse. — Below — Isaac Casaubon, the theologist (d. 1614). — Above — John Ernest Grabe , the Oriental scholar (d. 1711); sitting figure by Bird. — Several uninteresting monuments; then — Isaac Barrow, the theologian [d. 1679). Joseph Addison, the essayist [d. 1719); statue by Westmarott. On the base are the Muses in relief. Lord Macaulay, the historian (d. 1859) ; bust by Barnard. W. M. Thackeray, the novelist and humorist (d. 1863); bust by Marochetti. — Above — 202 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. George Frederick Handel, the composer (d. 1759), the last work from the chisel of Rouhiliac; life-size statue surrounded hy music and instruments; above, among the clouds, a heavenly choir ; in the background, an organ. Sir Archibald Campbell, General (d. 1791), by Wilton. — Below, to the right — James Stuart Mackenzie, Lord Privy Seal for Scotland (d. 1800); medallion-portrait, by Nollekens. — By the S. wall: — *John, Duke of Argyll and Greenwich ( d. 17-43) ; a large monu- ment by EoMftiiiac. On a black sarcophagus rests the half-recum- bent, life-size figure of the Duke, supported by History, who is writing his name on a pyramid. On the pedestal, to the left. Elo- quence ; to the right. Valour. Above the doorway of the chapel of St. Blaise or St. Faith (p. 216): — Oliver Goldsmith (d. 1774), buried at the Temple (p. 137); medallion by Nollekens. — Then — John Gay, the poet (d. 1732), hy Rysbrack. A small Genius holds the medallion. The irreverent inscription, by Gay himself, runs : — 'Lj/e is a jest ;and all things show it : I thought so once, but now I know it\ Nicolas Rowe, the poet (d. 1718), and his only daughter, by Rysbrack. Above, the medallion of the daughter. — Then — James Thomson, the poet of the 'Seasons' (d. 1748) ; statue by Spang. — Adjacent — * William Shakspeare (d. 1616), designed by -K'enf, and executed by Scheemakers . The figure of the Poet, placed on a pedestal re- sembling an altar , is represented with the right arm leaning on a pile of his works ; the left hand holds a roll bearing the titles of his chief writings. On the pedestal are the masks of Queen Eliza- beth, Henry V., and Richard III. Above, Robert Burns (d. 1796), bust by Steell. Robert Southey, the poet (d. 1843), bust by Weekes. S. T. Coleridge, the poet (d. 1834), bust hyHamo Thornycroft. — Then, opposite Addison's statue — Thomas Campbell, thepoet(d. 1844), statue "by Marshall. — The grave of Charles Dickens (d. 1870) is between the statues of Ad- dison and Campbell, and is surrounded by the tombs of Handel, Sheridan, and Cumberland. Garrick, Dr. Johnson, and Macaulay are also buried here. Passing round the pillar we now enter the — E. Aisle of the Poets' Corner. On the right. Granville Sharp (d. 1813), one of the chief ad- vocates for the abolition of slavery, medallion by Chantrey. — Above : 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 203 Charles de St. Denis, Seigneur de St. Evremont, author, French Marshal, afterwards in the service of England (d. 1703), bust. — Below — Matthew Prior, politician and poet (d. 1721], large monument by Rysbrack. In a niche is Prior's bust by Coyzevox fpresentcd by Louis XIV. of France); below, a black sarcophagus, adjoined by two allegorical figures of (r.) History and (1.) Thalia. At the top are two boys, one with a torch, the other with an hour-glass. — Then — William Mason, the poet (d. 1797) ; medallion, mourned over by Poetry, by Bacon. — Over it — Thomas Shadwell, the poet [d. 1692), by Bird. — Below — Thomas Gray, the poet (d. 1771) ; medallion, held by the Muse of poetry, by Bacon. — Above — John Milton (i. 1674; buried in St. Giles's Church, Cripple- gate), bust by Rysbrack (1737). Below is a lyre, round which is twining a serpent with an apple, in allusion to 'Paradise Lost'. — Below — Edmund Spenser [d. 1598; buried near Chaucer), 'the prince of poets in his tyme', as the inscription says; a simple, altar-like monument, with ornaments of light-coloured marble above. — Above — Samuel Butler, author of 'Hudibras' (d. 1680), with bust. — Then : Ben Jonson (d. 1637), poet-laureate to James I., and contem- porary of Shakspeare ; medallion by Rysbrack [1737) ; on the pede- stal the inscription, '0 rare Ben Johnson!' (comp. p. 198). — Michael Drayton, the poet (d. 1631), with bust. Barton Booth, the actor [d. 1733), an ancestor of Edwin Booth, with medallion, by Tyler. John Phillips, the poet (d. 1708) ; portrait in relief. The tomb of Geoffrey Chaucer (d. 1400), the father of English poetry, is on the same side, a few paces farther on, and consists of an altar-sarcophagus (supposed to be from GreyFriar3Church,p.91J under a canopy let into the wall (date, 1551). — Above it is a fine stained-glass window, erected in 1868, with scenes from Chaucer's poems, and a likeness of the poet. Abraham Cowley, the poet (d. 1667), with urn, loy Bushnell. H. W. Longfellow, the poet (d. 1882), bust by Brock. John Dryden, the poet (d. 1700) ; bust by Scheemakers. Archbishop Tait (d. 1883); marble bust by Armstead (at the entrance to the choir-ambulatory). Robert South, the preacher (d. 1716) ; statue by Bird. Richard Busby, head-master of Westminster School (d. 1695); statue by Bird. In the centre of the S. transept is a white slab, covering the remains of 'Old Parr' (d. 1635), who is said to have reached the age of 152 years. 204 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. To tlie left of the entrance to the ambulatory is an old altar- decoration of the 13th or 14th cent., below which is the old mon- ument of the Saxon king Sebert [d. 616) and his wife Athelgoda (d.615). We now repair to the *Chapels, which follow each other in the following order (starting from the Poets' Corner). I. Chapel of St. Bbnebict. Archbishop Langham {di . 1376) ; with recumbent figure. Lady Frances Hertford (d. 1598). Dr. Goodman., Dean of Westminster (d. 1601). A son of Dr. Spratt. Lionel Cranfield, Earl of Middlesex (d. 1645), Lord High Treasurer in the time of James I., and his wife. 6. Dr. Bill(d. 1561), first Dean of Westminster under Elizabeth. 3 1 1 4 1 2 5 « 1 Near this is the tomb of Ann of Cleves (d. 1557) , fourth wife of Henry VIII. II. Chapel of St. Edmund, King of the East Anglians. *1. John of Eltham., second son of Edward II., who died in 1334 in his nineteenth year. Sarcophagus with life-size alabaster figure. 2. Earl of Stafford (d. 1762); slab, by Chambers. 3. Nicholas Monk (d. 1661), Bishop of Hereford, brother of the famous Duke of Albemarle (p. 208) ; slab and pyramid, by Woodman. 4. William of Windsor and Blanche de la Tour (d. 1340), children of Edward III., who both died young; small sarcophagus, with recumbent alabaster figures 20 in. in length. " 5. Duchess of Suffolk (d. 1558), granddaughter of Henry VII. and mother of Lady Jane Grey ; recumbent figure. 6. Francis Holies, son of the Earl of Clare, who died in 1622, at the age of 18, on his return from a campaign in Flanders, in which he had greatly distinguished himself; sitting figure, by Stone. 7. Lady Jane Seymour [d. 1560), daughter of the Duke of Somerset. 8. Lady Katharine Knollys (d. 1568), chief Lady of the Bed- chamber to Queen Elizabeth, niece of Anne Boleyn, and grand- mother of the Queen's favourite, the Earl of Essex. 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 20J 9. Lady Elizabeth Russell (d. 1601), a handsome sitting figure of alalsaster, in an attitude of sleep. The Latin inscription says, 'she sleeps, she is not dead'. 10. Lord John Russell [d. 1584), and his son Francis ; sarco- phagus with a recumbent figure, resting on the left arm, in official robes, with the boy at the feet. 11. Sir Bernard Brocas of Beaurepaire, Chamberlain to Queen Anne, wife of Richard II., beheaded on Tower Hill in 1399 ; an interesting old monument in the form of a Gothic chapel, with re- cumbent figure of a praying knight; at the feet, a lion. 12. Sir Humphrey Bourgchier, partisan of Edward IV., who fell Chapel of St. Edmund. on Easter Day, 1471, at the battle of Barnet Field. Altar monument, with the figure of a knight, the head resting on a helmet, one foot on a leopard, and the other on an eagle. 13. Sir Richard Pecksall (d. 1571), Master of the Buckhound; to Queen Elizabeth; canopy with three niches. *14. Edward Talbot^ Earl of Shrewsbury [^i. 1617), and his wife s figures lying under a canopy on a slab of black marble with a pedestal of alabaster. 15. William de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, whofellat Bayonne in 1296 ; recumbent wooden figure, overlaid with metal, the feet resting on a lion. 16. Robert de Waldeby, Archbishop of York (d. 1397), once an Augustinian monk and the companion of Edward the Black Prince in France, tutor to Richardll. ; mediaeval monument, with en- graved figure. *17. Eleanora de Bohun, Duchess of Gloucester, Abbess of Bark- ing (d. 1399), one of the most interesting monuments in the Abbey. Her husband was smothered at Calais between two feather-beds by order of Richard II., his nephew. She is represented in the dress of a nun of Barking. The inscription is in old French. 206 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 18. Mary, Counless of Stafford {A. 10931, wife of Lord Stafford, who was beheaded on Tower Hill in 1680. 19. 7)r. Feme, Bishop of Chester, Grand Almoner of Charles I. (d. 106 1). Edward Bulwer Lyiton, the novelist (d. 1873), and Lord Her- bert of Cherbury (d. 1078) are buried under slabs in this chapel. III. Chapkl of St. Nicholas, Bishop of Myra. 1. Lady Cecil, Lady of the Bedchamber to Queen Elizabeth (d. ir)91)." 2. Lr/fii/J(mer.'Z//7'orfl!,daughtorofthe Duke of Somerseted. 1679). 3. Countess of Beverley ; small tombstone with the inscription, 'Esperance en Dieu (d. 181'2j, by NoUekcns. 4. Anne, Duchess of Somerset [d. ir)87), widow of the Protector Chapel of St. Nicliolas. (beheaded on Tower Hill in 1552, see p. 123), and sister-in-law of Jane Seymour, third wife of Henry VI IL ; recumbent figure. 5. Westmoreland Family. — Above — 6. Baron Carew (d. 1470) and his wife, medi^eval monument, with kneeling figures. 7. Nicholas Bayenall'{{\. 1687), overlain by his nurse when an infant. *8. Lady Mildred Burleiijh (d. 1588), wife of Lord Burleigh, the famous minister, and her daughter Anne. Lady Burleigh, says the epitaph, was well versed in the Greek sacred writers, and founded A jcholarship at St. John's College, Oxford. Recumbent figures. 9. William Dudley, Bishop of Durham (d. 1483). 10. Anna Sophia Hurley [d. 1601), the infant daughter of a French ambassador. 11. Lady Ross (A. 1591); medijcval monument. 12. Marchioness of WinchcHer (d. 1586). 13. Duchess of Northumberland \([. 1770), by Read. 14. Philippa de Bohun, Duchess of York (d. 1431), wife of 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 207 Edward Plantagenet, who fell at Agincourtin 1415. Old monument ■wltLi effigy of the deceased in long drapery. *15. Sir George ViUiers (d. 1605j and his wife fd. lf)32j, the parents of the Duke of Buckingham, favourite of James I. ; mon- ument with recumbent figures , in the centre of the chapel , by Stone. — The remains of Katherine of Valois , wife of Henry V. fd. 1437), lay below this tomb for 350 years (comp. p. 211). 16. Sir Humphrey Stanley ( d. 1505). Opposite us, on leaving this chapel, under the tomb of Henry V., is a bust oi Sir Robert Aiton, the poet ( 1570-1638), executed by Fa- relli from a portrait by Van Dyck. Aiton was secretary of two Queens Consort and a friendofJonson, Drummond,and Ilobbes. The earliest known version of 'Auld Lang Syne' was written by him. IV. A flight of twelve black marble steps now leads into the **Chapel of Henry VII., a superb structure erected in 1502-20 on the site of an old chapel of the Virgin Mary. The roses in the decoration of the fine brass-covered gates are an allusion to the marriage of Henry VII., founder of the Tudor family, with Eliza- beth, daughter of Edward IV., which united the Houses of York and Lancaster, and put an end to the Wars of the Roses (comp. p. 137). The chapel consists of nave and aisles, with five small cliapels at the E. end. The aisles are entered by doors on the right and left of the main gate. On the left stands the font. The chapel contains about 100 statues and figures. On each side are carved choir-stalls in dark oak, admirably designed and beautifully exe- cuted ; tlie quaint carvings on the 'misereres' under the seats are worthy of examination. Each stall is appropriated to a Knight of the Order of tlie I5ath, the lower seats being for the squires. Each seat bears the armorial bearings of its occupant in brass, and above each are a sword and banner. The chief glory of this chapel, however, is its fan tracery ceiling with its fantastic pendentives, each surface being covered with rich tret-work, exhibiting the florid Perpendicular style in its utmost luxuriance. The airiness, elegance, and richness of this exquisite work can scarcely be over-praised. The best survey of the chapel is gained either from the entrance door, or from the small chapel at the opposite extremity, behind the monument of the founder, whose portrait is to be seen in the stained-glass window above. 'On entering, the eye is astonished Ly tlie i)(jmp of architecture, and the elalxjrate beauty of sculptured detail. The very walls are wrought into universal ornament, incrusted with tracery, and scooped into niches, crowded with the statues of saints and martyrs. Stone seems, by the cunning labour of the chisel, to have been robbed of its weight and density, suspended aloft, as if by magic, and the fretted roof achieved with the wonderful minuteness and airy security of a cobweb.' — Wcmfiin^/- ton Irving. We first turn our attentioji to the S. aisle of the chapel, where we observe the following monuments: *1. Lady Margaret Douglas { A AblT), daughter of Margaret, Queen 208 IS. WESTMINSTER ABBEY / of Scotland, great-granddaughter of Edward IV., granddaughter of Henry TIL, niece of Henry VIII., cousin of Edward VI., sister of James V. of Scotland, mother of Henry I. of Scot- land (Lord Darnley), and grandmother of James VI. Her seven children kneel round the sarcophagus ; the eighth figure is her grandson. King James. '2. Mary, Queen of Scots, beheaded in 1587, an inartistic monument by ^. Earl of Kerry [A. iSiS), lei I 7 [ ' J Q r and his wife ; a marble sarco- phagus with an earVs coro- net, by Bucfe/iam. Altar-tomb. 4. Telford, the engineer (d. 1834); huge statue by Baily. 5. Dr. Baillie (d. 1823) : bust by Chantrey. 6. Miss Davidson, daugh- ter of a rich merchant of Rot- terdam (d. 1767), by Hay- ward. Altar-tomb with head. 7. Mrs. Siddons, the fa- mous actress (d.l831); statue by Chantrey, after Reynolds's picture of her as the Tragic Muse. 8. Sir James Simpson (d. 1870), the discoverer of the value of chloroform as an an- aesthetic ; bust by Brodie. 9. JohnKemble (d.l823), the actor, in the character of Cato ; statue by Flaxman. *10. Lord Norris (d. 1601), son of Sir Henry Norris who was executed with the ill-fated Anne Boleyn , with his wife, and six sons. The recumbent figures of Lord and Lady Norris are under a catafalque ; at the sides are the life-size kneeling figures of the sons. On the S. side of the canopy is a relief of warlike scenes from the life of the deceased nobleman. At the top is a small Goddess of Fame. 11. Mrs. Kirton (d. 1603); altar-tomb. 12. Sarah, Duchess of Somerset (d. 1692). The Duchess is represented leaning on her arm under a canopy, looking towards the angels, who are appearing to her in the clouds. At the sides are two poor boys bewailing the death of their benefactress. *13. J. Gascoigne Nightingale (d. 1752), and his wife (d. 1731); group by Roubiliac. Death is launching his dart at the dying lady, while her husband tries to ward off the attack. 14. Lady St. John ( d. 1614), with an effigy. 15. Admiral Pocock (d. 1793); sitting figure of Victory with medallion, by Bacon. in 216 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 16. Sir G. Holies, nephew of Sir Francis Vere (d. 1626), \>y Stone. *17, Sir Francis Vere (d. 1608), officer in the service of Queen Elizabeth. Four kneeling warriors in armour support a black marble slab, on which lies the armour of the deceased. This chapel also contains tablets or busts in memory of Ad- miral Kempenfelt, who was drowned with 900 sailors by the sink- ing of the 'Royal George' in 1782 (commemorated in Cowper's well-known lines) ; Sir Humphrey Davy (d. 1829), the natural philosopher; the learned Dr. Young (d. 1829), and others. Beyond this point we dispense with the services of the guide. The *Chapter House, to the S.E. of the Abbey, adjoining the Poets' Corner, an octagonal room with a central pillar, was built in 1250, and from 1282 to 1547 was used for the meetings of the House of Commons, which Edward VI., in the latter year, appointed to take place in St. Stephen's Chapel, Westminster Palace. The Chapter House was afterwards used as a receptacle for public records, but these have now been removed to the New Record Office (p. 135). On the wall are remains of a mural painting of Christ surrounded by the Christian virtues. The old tiled pavement is well executed. The Chapter House, which has recently been ably restored, contains a Roman sarcophagus; a glass-case with fragments ot sculpture, coins, keys, etc., found in the neighbourhood; and another case with ancient documents relating to the Abbey, including the Great Charter of Edward the Con- fessor (1065). The stained-glass Avindows were erected by the Queen and a few American admirers in memory of Dean Stanley. The Chapter House is usually entered from the E. walk of the cloisters (comp. p. 201). Adjoining the chapter-house is the Chapel of the Pyx (shown by special order only), which was once the Treasury of the Kings of England. The pyx (i.e. the box in which the standards of gold and silver are kept) has been removed to the Mint (p. 125). Opposite the entrance to the Chapter House is a staircase ascending to the Muniment Room , or Archives of the Abbey, and to the Triforium, which affords a fine survey of the interior. The room called the Chapel of St. Blaise, between the S. transept and the Chapter House, has a lofty groined roof. In the Jerusalem Chamber, to the S.W. of the Abbey (shown on application at the porter's lodge), are frescoes of the Death of Henry lY. and the Coronation of Queen Victoria, some stained glass ascribed to the period of Henry III., and busts of Henry IV. and Henry V. It dates from 1376-86, and was the scene of the death of Henry IV. King Henry. Doth any name particular belong Unto the lodging where I first did swoon? Warwick. 'Tis called Jerusalem, my noble Lord. King. Laud be to God I even there my life must end. It hath been prophesied to me many years, I should not die but in Jerusalem; Which vainly I supposed the Holy Land: — But bear me to that chamber: there Til lie In that Jerusalem shall Harry die. Shakspeart. King Henvti IV., Part IT; Act iv. Sc. 4. 18. WESTMINSTER SCHOOL. 217 It protiably derived its name from tapestries or pictures of the history of Jerusalem with which it was hung. The Upper House of Convocation of the Province of Canterbury now meets here. The adjoining Bitot's Refectory or College Hall, where the Westminster college boys dine, contains some ancient tapestry and stained glass. The Lower House of Convocation also meets here. The beautiful Cloisters, dating from the lltli-14th cent., may be entered by a door in the S. aisle of the Abbey, adjacent to the angle of Poets' Corner, whence a good view of them is obtained (see p. 201). They contain numerous tombs. For fuller information the curious reader is referred to Dean Stanley's 'Memorials of Westminster Abbey' and Sir G. G, Scott's 'Gleanings from Westminster Abbey'. To theW. of Westminster Abbey rises the Westminster Column, a red granite monument 60 ft. high, designed by Sir Gilbert Scott, and erected in 1854-59 to former scholars of Westminster School who fell in the Crimea or the Indian Mutiny. At the base of the column couch four lions. Above are the statues of Edward the Confessor and Henry III. (chief builders of Westminster Abbey), Queen Eliz- abeth (founder of Westminster School), and Queen Victoria. The col- umn is surmounted by a group of St. George and the Dragon. It is on or near the site of Caxton's house (the 'Red Pale'), in the Almonry. An archway, passing under the new house to the S. of the column, leads to the Bean's Yard and Westminster School, or St. Peter's College (PI. R, 25; IV), re-founded by Queen Elizabeth in 1560. The school consists of 40 Foundationers, called Queen's Scholars, and about 180 Oppidans or Town Boys. Among the celebrated men educated here were Dryden, Locke, Ben Jonson,Cartwright,Bentham, Barrow, Home Tooke, Cowley, Rowe, Prior, Giles Fletcher, Churchill, Cowper, Southey, Hackluyt the geographer. Sir Chris. Wren, Warren Hastings, Gibbon, George Herbert, Vincent Bourne, Dyer, Toplady, Charles SVesley, George Coleman, Aldrich the musician, Elmsley the scholar, Lord Raglan, J. A. Froude, and Earl Russell. Richard Busby (p. 203) was head-master here from 1638 to 1095. A comedy of Ter- ence is annually performed at Christmas in the dormitory of the Queen's Scholars by the AVestminster boys, with a prologue and epilogue alluding to current events. The old dormitory of the Abbey is now used as the great school-room, while the school-library and class-rooms occupy the site of the medieval Misericorde, of which considerable remains are still traceable. The old tables in the dining- hall are said to be made from the timbers of the Armada. The stair- case of Ashburnham House (included in the school-buildings) and the school-gateway are by Inigo Jones. — The Royal Architectural Museum, in Tufton Street, beyond the college (adm. daily 10-4, Sat. 10-6, free), contains Gotliic, Renaissance, and Classic carvings. In Caxton Street, leading off Victoria Street, is the new West- minster Tou-n Hall, a hamlsome Jacobean building of red brick. 218 19. PALL MALL. Westminster Hospital (PL R, 25 ; IV), in the Broad Sanctuary (formerly a sacred place of refuge for criminals and political of- fenders"), to the N.W. of the Abbey , was founded in 1719 , Mr. Henry Hoare, banker, of Fleet Street, being a leading promoter. It was the first of the now numerous hospitals of London supported by voluntary contributions. It contains beds for 200 patients. The Royal Aquarium, in Victoria Street, to the W. of the hos- pital , a handsome red brick edifice , with an arched roof of glass and iron, was opened in 1876. The cost of the building, which is 600 ft. in length, was nearly 200,000i. It includes large salt and fresh-water aquaria, a summer and winter garden, a theatre (see p. 42), concert-hall, reading-room, picture-gallery, and restaurant; and acrobatic and spectacular performances and music-hall enter- tainments of all kinds are given here. 19. Pall Mall and Piccadilly. Waterloo Place. York Column. Marlborough House. St. James's Street. Burlington House. Geological Museum. Leicester Square. Pall Mall (PL R, 22, 26; IV), the centre of club-life (see p. 73 ), and a street of modern palaces , derives its name from the old game of pail mail (from the Italian palla, 'a ball', and malleo, a mallet; French jeu de mail), introduced into England during the reign of Charles I., a precursor of the modern croquet. In the 16th and 17th centuries Pall Mall was a fashionable suburban promenade, but about the end of the 17th cent, it began to assume the form of a street. Among the many celebrated persons who have resided in this street may be mentioned Marshal Schomberg, the scion of a noble Rhenish family (the Counts of Schonburg"), who fell at the Battle of the Boyne (1690). Gainsborough, the painter, died in 1788 in the house which had once been Schomberg's (house next the War Office). Dodsley, the publisher, carried on business in Pall Mall under the sign of 'Tully's Head', bringing out, among other works, Sterne's 'Tristram Shandy', and the 'Annual Register'. The eastern portion of the street, between Cockspur Street and Trafalgar Square, is called Pall Mall East. Here, nearly opposite the corner of the Hatmarket (where Addison once resided), is a bronze statue of George III., by Wyatt. erected in 1837. On the N. side of Pall Mall East stands the University Club (entrance from Suffolk Street); farther to the W., at the left corner of Haymarket. is Her Majesty s Theatre or Opera-house, rebuilt after a fire in 1867. Farther to the N., on the right side of the Haymarket, is the Hay- market Uieatre (p. 40). Then in Pall Mall, to the left, at the corner of Waterloo Place, is the United Service Club, and to the right the National Conservative Club. To the N. of Waterloo Place (PL R, 26, IV) is Regent Street (p. 224), leading to Piccadilly. In the centre of the place is the 19. YORK COLUMN. 219 *Crimean Monument, erected, from a design \)y Bell, to the memory of the 2162 officers and soldiers of the Guards, who fell in the Russian war. On a granite pedestal is a figure of Victory with laurel wreaths ; below, in front, three guardsmen ; behind, a trophy of guns captured at Sebastopol. On the sides are inscribed the names of Alma, Inkerman, and Sebastopol. — In the S. part of the place or square are four monuments. To the left is that of Colin Campbell, Lord Clyde, Field-Marshal (d. 1863), the conqueror of Lucknow, by Marochetti, consisting of a bronze statue on a circular granite pedestal, at the foot of which is Britannia, with a twig of lau- rel, sitting on a lion couchant. Adjacent is a similar monument (by Boehm) to Lord Lawrence (d. 1879), ruler of thePunjab during the Sepoy Mutiny of 1857and Viceroy of India from 1864 to 1869, erected in 1882 by his fellow-subjects, British and Indian. — To the right, opposite, is the bronze statue of Sir John Franklin, by Noble, erected by Parliament 'to the great arctic navigator and his brave companions who sacrificed their lives in completing the discovery of the North West Passage A.D. 1847-48'. On the front of the pedestal is a relief in bronze, representing the interment of the relics of the unfortunate Franklin expedition ; on the sides are the names of the crews of the ships Erebus and Terror. On the right of this statue is a bronze figure of Field-Marshal Sir John Fox Burgoyne (d. 1871), on a ped- estal of light-coloured granite, by Boehm. The broad flight of steps at the S. end of Waterloo Place, known as Waterloo Steps, descends to St. James's Park. At the top of the steps rises the York Column, a granite column ol the Tuscan order, 124 ft. in height, designed by Wyatt, and erected in 1833. It is surmounted by a bronze statue of the Duke of York (second son of George III.), by Westmacott. A winding staircase ascends in the interior to the platform, which affords an admirable *View of the AV. portions of the great city (closed at present). — To the W. of the column, in Carlton House Terrace, is Prussia House, the residence of the German ambassador. Farther on in Pall Mall (S. side) is a series of palatial club- houses, the oldest of which dates from 1829 (see also pp. 74, 75). At the corner on the left is the Athenaeum Club (with frieze); then the Travellers' Club (with its best fa(;ade towards the garden), Reform Club, and Carlton Club (with polished granite pillars ; an imitation of Sansovino's Library of St. Mark at Venice). A little farther on is the War Office, in front of which is a bronze statue of Lord Herbert of Lea (d. 1861), once War Secretary, by Foley. Opposite, on the right side of the street, are the Junior Carlton Club and the Army and Navy Club. St. James's Square, which is reached at this point, contains the mansions of the Duke of Nor- folk, the Earl of Derby, the Bishop of London, and other members of the aristocracy, and is embellished with an Equestrian Statue of William III. , in bronze, by Bacon. 220 19. PICCADILLY. Farther on, at the W. end of Pall Mall, are the Oxford and Cam- bridge Club, the Guards^ Club, and the Unionist Club on the left, and the Marlborough Club on the right. Marlborough House (PL R, 22; IV), on the S. side of Pall Mall, was erected by Sir Chris- topher Wren, in 1710, for the first Duke of Marlborough, who lived here in such a magnificent style as entirely to eclipse the court of 'Neighbour George' in St. James's Palace. In 1817 the house was purchased by Government as a residence for Princess Charlotte and her husband Prince Leopold of Saxe - Coburg. The princess died the same year, but Leopold (d. 1865) continued to reside here till he accepted the throne of r)elgium in 1831. The house was after- wards occupied by the Queen Dowager Adelaide, subsequently used as a picture-gallery, and is now the residence of the Prince of Wales. To the W. of Marlborough House, and separated from it by a narrow carriage-way only, is St. James's Palace (p. 255). In St. James's Street, which here leads N. to Piccadilly, are situated the Conservative Club, Arthur's Club, Brooks's Club, Netv University Club, White's Club (the bow window of which has figured in so many novels). Boodle's Club, the Cocoa Tree Club, the Junior Army and Nary Club, the Devonshire Club (formerly Crockford's, notorious for it? liigh play under the Regency), and others. To the right, in King Street, is St. James's Theatre (p. 40). Willis's Rooms, a little farther along King Street, were down to 1863, under the name of Almack's (from the original proprietor, 1765), famous for the aristocratic and exclusive balls, also called Almack's, which were held in them. The elegantly fitted up rooms are now used for con- certs, balls, dinners, and other similar purposes (see p. 43). King Street also contains Christie and Manson's Auction Rooms, cele- brated for sales of valuable art-collections. The chief sales take place on Saturdays, during the Season. Piccadilly (PL R, 18, 22 ; /, IV), extending from Ilaymarket to Hyde Park Corner, is nearly 1 M. in length. The eastern portion, with its handsome shops, is one of the chief business streets of the West End. The western half, which is bordered on the S. by the Green Park (p. 259), contains a number of aristocratic and fashionable residences, and the Turf (No. 85), the Naval and Mili- tary (94), Badminton (100), St. James's (106), Savile (107), and Junior Athenaeum (116) clubs. Turning into it to the right, we first notice, on the right side, a few yards from the corner of St. James's Street, the Egyptian Hall (p. 44). On the opposite side are Old and New Bond Streets (p. 226), leading to Oxford Street. Between Old Bond Street and Sack- ville Street rises New Burlington House (PL R, 22; /), to the W. of which is Burlington Arcade (p. 25). Old Burlington House, built in 1695-1743 by Richard, Lord Burlington, with the assistance of the architect Kent, was purchased by Government in 1854 for the sum of 140,000^. along with its gardens, on which various new edi- 19. ACADEMY OF ARTS. 221 flees have been built. The incongruous top story and the present facade of the old building are also new. Nearest Piccadilly is a handsome building in the Italian Renaissance style, completed in 1872 from designs by Banks and Barry, and occupied by several learned societies , to whom the rooms are granted by Government rent-free ; in the E. wing are the Royal, Geological, and Chemical Societies, and in the W. the Antiquarian (with a collection of paint- ings, chiefly old portraits), Astronomical, and Linnaean. The Koyal Society, or Academy of Science, the most important of the learned bodies of Great Britain, was founded in 1660, and received its charter of incorporation from Charles II. three years later. As early as 1645, however, its germ existed in the meeting of a few men of learning, far from the turmoil of the Civil War, to discuss subjects relating to the physical and exact sciences. The flrst number of its fmous Philosophical Transactions appeared in 1665. It now comprises 750 members, each of whom is entitled to append to his name the letters F. R. S. [Fellow of the Royal Society). The Library of the society consists of about 50,000 vols, and 5000 MSS. The rooms contain portraits and busts of celebrated Fellows, including Sir Christopher Wren, Sir Isaac Newton, Robert Boyle, Halley, Sir Humphrey Davy, Watt, and Sir William Herschel ; also a telescope which belonged to Newton, and the MS. of his 'Philo- sophiai Naturalis Principia Mathematica'; and the original model of Davy's safety lamp. An arcade leads through the building into the inner court. On the N. side is the exhibition building of the Royal Academy of Arts (founded in 1768), in the Renaissance style, erected by Smirke in 1868-9. At the top of the facade are 9 statues of cele- brated artists: Phidias, Leonardo da Yinci , Flaxman, Raphael, Michael Angelo, Titian, Reynolds, Wren, and Wykeham. The Ex- hibition of the Royal Academy (transferred in 1869 from Trafalgar Square to Piccadilly), which takes place here every year from May to the beginning of August, attracts immense numbers of visitors (admission Is., catalogue Is.). It consists of paintings and sculp- tures by modern (mainly) British artists, which must have been flnished during the previous year and not exhibited elsewhere before. The 'Private View' of the Exhibition, held by invitation of the Academicians before it is thrown open to the public, is always attended by the cream of society and "is one of the events of the London Season. The Academy also organises every winter an ex- hibition of works of old masters belonging to private individuals. Above the exhibition-rooms three galleries (open daily 11-4, free) have been built, which contain some valuable works of early art, the diploma pictures presented by Academicians on their elec- tion, and the Gibson collection of sculpture. Among the ancient works are : *Mary with Jesus and St. John, a relief by Michael An- gelo j *Madonna, Holy Child, and St. Anna, a celebrated cartoon by 222 19. MUSEUM OF GEOLOGY. Leonardo da Vinci, executed in 1503 for the church DeH'Aimun- ziata at Florence; Copy of Leonardo's Last Supper, by his pupil Marco d'Oggionno^ from which Morgheu's engraving was taken ; Wo- man at a well, ascribed to Giorgione but considered by Frizzoni to be an early work of Seb. del Piombo ; portrait by Giorgione. The di- ploma works include good specimens by Reynolds and Wilkie. The Library, on the first floor, contains a fine collection of books and prints. At the back of the Academy, and facing Burlington Gardens, is the new building of London University (not to be confounded with University College in Gower Street) , another Renaissance structure, erected in 1869 from designs by Pennethorne. (Lou- don University is not a teaching establishment but an examin- ing board, granting degrees in arts, science, medicine, and law, to candidates of either sex wherever educated.) The eftective facade is decorated with a series of statues. Above the portico are those of Milton, Newton, Harvey, and Bentham (as represen- tatives of the four Faculties), by Durham; over the cornice in the centre, Plato, Archimedes, and Justinian, by Woodington, and Galen, Cicero, and Aristotle, by Westmacott ; in the W. wing, Locke, Bacon, and Adam Smith, by Theed, and Hume, Hunter, and Sir Humphrey Davy, by Noble; in the E. wing , Galileo, Laplace , and Goethe, by Wt/on , and Cuvier, Leibnitz, and Linnaeus, by Macdowell. The interior contains a spacious lecture room, a number of other apartments , in which the graduation examina- tions take place twice annually, and a valuable library. A marble statue of Queen Victoria, by Boehm, was erected here in May, 1889. Close by, at 1 Savile Row, is the Royal Geographical Society. Richard Brinsley Sheridan died at 14 Savile Row in 1816. On the N. side of Piccadilly, a little beyond Burlington House, is the Albany, let out in chambers, and numbering Canning, Byron, and Macaulay among quondam residents. Byron passed the first part of his married life at 139 Piccadilly, where his daughter Ada was born in Dec, 1815. St. James's Church (PL R, 22 ; I), on the S. side of Piccadilly, built by Wren in 1682-84, and considered (as to the interior) one of his finest works, contains a marble font by Grinling Gibbons, who also executed the handsome foliage over the altar. The stained- glass windows, representing the Passion and other scenes, are modern. The vestry is hung with portraits of former rectors. The Museum of Practical Geology, erected in 1850, is a little farther to the E. It is open daily, Fridays excepted, from 10 to 5 (in winter 10-4), and on Mondays and Saturday till 10 p.m. ; it is closed from 10th August to 10th September. The building con- tains, besides the geological museum, a lecture-room for 500 hearers, and a library. Entrance by Jermyn Street (Nos. 28-32). The Hall contains busts of celebrated geologists: on the right, Mur- chison, Greenough, De la Beche, Castletown, William Smith, and Jukes (behind); on the left, Buckland, Playfair. Hall, Sedgwick, and Button; at the pillars near the entrance, Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. At the upper end is a colossal copy of the Farnese Hercules in Portland limestone. Then English, Irish, and Scotch granite; alabaster; Portland limestone from the island of Portland , near Weymouth in Dorsetshire ; 19. LEICESTER SQUARE. 223 Derbyshire, Staftbrdshire, and Irish marbles ; auriferous quartz ; malachite ; a large block of solid copper; and numerous varieties of limestone. These are partly in the rough, and partly polished and cut in the shape of large cubes, squares, tablets, or short columns. Also terracotta statuettes, copies of ancient statues, vases, and pieces of tesselated pavement. The mosaic pavement in the middle of the hall deserves notice. On the First Floor vs^e first observe a large vase of Siberian avan- turine quartz, a gift from the Emperor of Russia ; a geological model of London and its vicinity -, a steel salver, inlaid vpith gold , presented by the Russian Administration of Mines to Sir Roderick Murchison. On the S. side is a collection of porcelain, glass, enamels, and mosaics from the earliest period dov^n to the present day. Then, in table-cases at the sides of the room, iron, steel, and copper, at dillerent stages of their manufacture. We notice in a case on the right (E.) side a penny rolled out into a strip of copper, 10yds. long. The cases in the form of a horse-shoe in the middle of the room contain the collection of non-metallic minerals : here are seen all kinds of crystallisations, particularly of precious stones, from quartz nodules with brilliant crystals in the interior up to the most ex- quisitely polished jevrels. Models of the largest knovt'n diamonds, such as the Koh-i-noor and the Regent Diamond , are also exhibited in these cases. The metalliferous minerals, or ores, occupy the wall-cases. Other cabinets are filled with agates, some of which are artificially coloured with oxide of iron, and the precious metals, including a model of a huge nugget of pure gold. In the other parts of the saloon and in the adjoining apartments are exhibited geological relief-plans and models of mines, metallurgical pro- cesses , and various kinds of machinery. The two upper galleries, run- ning round the hall , chiefly contain fossils , which are of little interest to the ordinary visitor. On the N. side of Piccadilly, opposite the Geological Museum, is St. James's Hall (p. 43), which has another entrance in the Regent Quadrant (p. 224j. We next reach Regent Circus (p. 224), and then, on the right, the Haymarket (p. 218). At this point Piccadilly proper comes to an end. Coventry Street ^ its eastern prolongation, containing the Prince of Wales Theatre (p. 42), leads on to Leicester Square [PI. R, 27; i), a quarter largely inhabited by French residents, and adorned in 1874 with flower-beds and a marble statue of Shakspeare^ in the centre, bearing the inscription, 'There is no darkness but ignorance' ; at the base are four water- spouting dolphins. The corners of the garden are embellished with marble busts of Reynolds^ Hunter^ Hogarth^ and Newton, all of whom lived in or near the square. After the revocation of the Edict of Nantes (1685) this neighbourhood became a favourite resort of the more aristocratic French Protestant exiles. Leicester House and Savile House, once situated in the square, were occupied by mem- bers of the royal family during the first half of last century ; and Peter the Great was entertained at Savile House by the Marquis of Carmarthen (1698). Down to the beginning of the present cen- tury the open space in the centre was a frequent resort of duellists. — The Alhambra Theatre (p. 43), on the E. side of the square, was burned down in 1882, but was rebuilt in 1883-84. The site of Savile House, on the N. side of the square, is occupied by the Em- pire Theatre (p. 43). 224 20. Regent Street. Oxford Street. Holborn. • AU Saints' Church. University College. St. Pancras' Church. Foundling Hospital. Regent Street (PL R, 23, 26; i), one of the finest streets in London , and containing a large number of tlie best shops , was laid out by Nash in 1813, for the purpose of connecting Carlton House, the residence of the Prince Regent, with Regent's Park. It is 1 M. in length, and extends from Waterloo Place, Pall Mall (p. 218), across Oxford Street, to Portland Place. To the right (E.), at the corner of Charles Street, stands the Junior United Service Club^ and on the same side, at the corner of Jermyn Street (with the Geo- logical Museum^ p. 222), is the Raleigh Club. The street then reaches Regent Circus, Piccadilly (see p. 223 ; known as Piccadilly Circus^., whence Piccadilly leads to the W., Coventry Street to the E., and the wide Shaftesbury Avenue (p. 144) to the N.E. The vacant triangle in the centre of the Circus is to be occupied by a Memorial Fountain to Lord Shaftesbury, by Alfred Gilbert. Beyond the Circus Regent Street describes a curve to the W., forming the so-called Quadrant. On the left is the entrance to St. James's Hall (see above). Yigo Street, at the end of the Quadrant, leads on the left to the new building of London University (p. 222). Farther on, to the left, we pass New Burlington Street, Conduit Street, and Maddox Street. Between Hanover Street and Prince's Street we observe the col- onnade of Hanover Chapel. Hanover Square, on the left, is em- bellished with a bronze statue of William Pitt (d. 1806), by Chantrey. On theE. side of the square is the St. George's Club, occupy- ing the site of the long popular Hanover Square Concert Rooms ; on the W. side, the Oriental Club ; and at the N.W. angle, inTenterden Street, the Royal Academy of Music. In George Street, leading out of the square on theS., is St. George's Church, built by James, with a classic portico, and three stained-glass windows, brought from Malines about 1520. It is the most famous church in London for fashionable weddings. Lady Mary Wortley Montagu died in George Street in 1762. The intersection of Regent Street with Oxford Street (p. 225), which extends for a longdistance in both directions, is called Begrent Circus, Oxford Street, or simply Oxford Circus. The second short cross-street beyond Oxford Street (1.) leads to Cavendish Square, which contains an equestrian statue in marble of the Duke of Cumberland (the victor atCulloden in 1746), by Chew, and a bronze statue of Lord George Bentinck (d. 1848), by Campbell. Harcourt House, on the W. side of the square, is the mansion of the Duke of Portland. The old Polytechnic Institution, between Cavendish Square and Regent Street , has been sold to the Young Mens' Christian Institute. 20. OXFORD STREET. 225 Adjacent, at 13 Mandeville Place, Manchester Square, is Trin- ity College, an incorporated institution for the study of music and arts. Lord Byron was horn in 1788 at 24 Holies Street, between Cavendish Square and Oxford Street ; the house, however, has since l)een rebuilt. He was baptised in Old Marylehone Church, at the top of Marylebone High Street (PI. R, 20), where Charles Wesley was buried in 1778. This was the old church (rebuilt in 1741J which figures in the 'Rake"s Marriage' by Hogarth (see p. 167). All Saints' Church (PI. R, 24; i), in Margaret Street, to the E. of Regent Street, a brick edifice in the Early English style, built by Butterfield in 1850-59, is lavishly decorated in the interior with marble and gilding. The E. wall of the choir is frescoed by Dyce in the style of early Christian art. At the N. end of Regent Street is Langham Place, with All Souls' Church, erected by Nash. The large building on the other side is the Langham Hotel (p. 7). From this point Portland Place, one of the widest streets in London (120 ft.), leads to Park Crescent, Park Square, and Regent's Park (p. 228). Oxford Street (PI. R, 19, 23, 27 ; /, //) , the principal artery of traffic between theN.W. quarter of London and the City, extends from the Marble Arch (at the N.E. corner of Hyde Park, p. 259) to Holborn, a distance of IV2 M. The E. portion of this imposing street contains a number of the most important shops in London, and presents a scene of immense traffic and activity ; while the W. end, with the adjoining streets and squares (particularly Grosvenor Square and Berkeley Square on the S. and Portman Square on the N.), comprises many aristocratic residences. Edgware Road, which begins at the AV. end of Oxford Street (see PI. R, 15), follows the line of the old Roman road to St. Albans. Many of the houses in Grosvenor Square and Berkeley Square (with its plane-trees) still have bits of fine old iron-work in front of their doors, with ex- tinguishers for the links or torches formerly used. Horace Wal- pole died at 11 Berkeley Square in 1797; Clive committed suicide at No. 45 in 1774. No. 38, now the town-house of Lord Rosebery, was the house from which the daughter of Mr. Child, the banker, eloped with the Earl of Westmorland in 1782, and was afterwards the residence of their daughter Lady Jersey (d. 1867) and her hus- band. The 'Blue Stocking Club" met at Mrs. Montagu's (d. 1800), in the N.W. corner of Portman Square. At the foot of South Aud- ley Street, which runs to the S. from the S.W. corner of Grosvenor Square, is Chesterfield House (PI. R, 18; /T), with a fine marble staircase and the library in which the 'Chesterfield Letters' w^ere written. In Brook Street, which runs E. from Grosvenor Square, is a house (No. 25) distinguished by a tablet indicating that Handel used to live here. Brook Street soon crosses ^ew Bond Street, lead- ing from Oxford Street to Piccadilly (p. 220) and containing numer- ous handsome shops and several picture-galleries (comp. p. 45). Baedekek, London. 7th Edit. 15 226 20. ST. GILES-IN-THE-FIELDS. The Dore Gallery, 35 New Bond Street, contains a collection of large oil-paintings and drawings by the French painter, Gustave Dori (b. at Strassburg, 1832 -, d. 1883). and should be visited (open daily 10-6; admission l5.)- Among the finest works are : 2. Christ entering Jerusalem, painted in 1875-76 ; ~3. Christ leaving the Prsetorium ; 12. Massacre of the Innocents (1872) ; 7. Dream of Pilate's wife (1874) ; '4. The Brazen Serpent (1875-77) ; Ecce Homo; The Ascension; Gaming-table at Baden-Baden; Moses before Pharaoh; the Vale of Tears, his last work. — The Dore' Gallery also contains several works by Mr. Edicin Long., R.A. Hanover Square , Cavendish Square, Regent Street , see above. In Oxford Street, on the left, farther on, is the Princesses Theatre (p. 41), nearly opposite which is the Pantheon, which has succes- sively been a concert-room, a theatre, and a bazaar, and is now the extensive wine warehouse of Messrs. Gilbey. Then on the right, in SoHO Square, is the Soho Bazaar (p. 26). Oxford Street proper ends at Tottenham Court Road, which runs to the N. to Euston Road, and Charing Cross Road (p. 144), leading to the S. to Charing Cross. In the latter is the church of St. Mary the Virgin, Soho, on the site of the first Greek church in London (1677), part of which is still standing (see Greek inscription over the W. door). The church, which was afterwards occupied by a French congregation, contains some old stained glass and a good Crucifixion, in marble, by Miss Grant. The eastern prolongation of Oxford Street, extending to Holborn, and called New Oxford Street, was laid out in 1849 at a cost of 290,000i. through the 'Rookery of St. Giles', one of the most dis- reputable quarters of London. No. 75. to the right, belonging to Messrs. Pears, has a vestibule in the style of a Pompeian room, adorned with sculptures. On the left, at the corner of Hart Street, is Mudie's Library (p. 17). A little to the S. of New Oxford Street, in High Street, is the church of St. Giles-in-the-Fields, the third church on this site, completed in 1734. Chapman, the translator of Homer (tombstone against the exterior S. wall, erected by Inigo Jones), Shirley, the dramatist, and Andrew Marvell are buried here. To the E. in the churchyard is the square tomb of Pendrell, who helped Charles II. to safety after the battle of Worcester, with a quaint epitaph, now almost undecipherable, beginning 'Unparalleled Pendreir. The British Museum (p. 233) lies in Great Russell Street, which runs off Tottenham Court Road, a little to the north. There are several squares at a short distance from the street, among the chief of which are, to the W. of the British Museum, Bedford Square ; to the E., Bloomsbury Square and Russell Square, the one containing a statue of Charles James Fox (d. 1806), and the other one of Francis, Duke of Bedford (d. 1802), both by Westmacott. Gower Street, which leads to the N. from Bedford Square, con- tains University College (PI. B,28), founded in 1828, chiefly through the exertions of Lord Brougham, for students of every religious de- nomination. A long flight of steps leads to the decastyle Corinthian portico fronting the main edifice , which is 400 ft. in length and 20. HIGH HOLBORN. 227 surmounted by a handsome dome. It contains numerous lecture- rooms, a laboratory, and a museum -with original models and draw- ings byFlaxman(d. 1826), the celebrated sculptor (open to visitors in the summer months. Sat. 10-4). A new wing was added in 1880-81. The subjects studied at the college comprise the exact and natural sciences, the classical and modern languages and litera- tures , history, law, and medicine. The building also contains a well-known school for boys. The whole is maintained without aid from Government. The number of professors is about 30, and that of students about 1600, paying nearly 30,000i. in fees. In Gower Street, opposite University College, and connected with it as a clin- ical establishment, stands the University College Hospital, where from 19,000 to 20,000 patients are annually treated by the medical professors of the college. Close by, in Gordon Square, is the Catholic Apostolic Church, built in 1850-54, one of the largest ecclesiastical edifices in London. The Interior is a tine example of modern Gothic (Early English), though unlinished towards the W. The Choir, with its graceful triforium and diapered spandrils, is very rich. The most beautiful part of the church is, however, the English Chapel^ to the E. of the chancel, with its polychrome painting, stained-glass windows, and open arcade with line carving Tparticularly on the three arches to the S. of the altar). In the Morning Chapel, to the S. of the chancel, is the altar formerly used by the Rev. Edward Irving (d. 1834). the founder of the Catholic Apostolic Church. St. Pancras' Church (PI. B, 28), to the X.E. of University College, in Euston Square, was built by the Messrs. Inwood in 1819 at a cost of 76,679i. It is an imitation of the Erechtheum at Athens ; while its tower, 168 ft. in height, is a reproduction of the so-called Tower of the Winds. Old St. Pancras' Church (PI. B, 27), with its histori- cal churchyard, is situated in Old St. Pancras Road, next to the Workhouse. — A little to the W. is the Gower Street Station of the Metropolitan Railway (p. 36). To the N. is Euston Square Station, the terminus of the London and North Western Railway (p. 32) , the entrance-hall of which contains a colossal statue of George .Stephenson, \)y Baily. To the E. is the St. Pancras Station, the terminus of the Midland Railway (p. 33), with the terminus hotel , a very handsome building in an ornate Gothic style, by Sir G. G. Scott. Adjacent is the King's Cross Station , or terminus of the Great Northern Railway (p. 33). To the y. of this point lie the populous but comparatively uninteresting districts of Islixgtox, HiOHBUKr, Hollowat, Camdex Town, and Kentish Town. In Great College Street, Camden Town, is situated the Royal Veterinary College (PI. B. 23), with a museum to which visitors are ad- mitted daily (9 to 5 or 6) on presenting their cards. Charles Dibdin (d. 1814), the writer of nautical songs, is buried in St. Martin's Burial Ground, Pratt Street, a little to the X.W. of the Veterinary College. The Royal Agricultural Hall (p. 45) is in Liverpool Road, Islington (PI. B, 35), and the Grand Theatre (p. 42) is close by, in High Street.^ A little to the X.E., in Canonbury Square (PI. B, 38), is "^ Canonhury Tower, an interesting relic of the country -residence of the Priors of St. Bartholomew. The tower was probably built by Prior Bolton (p. 95) , though restored at a later date, and contains a fine carved oak room. Oliver Goldsmith occupied rooms in the tower in 1762. 15* 228 21. REGENT'S PARK. The eastern prolongation of New Oxford Street is High Holboin (PI. R, 32, and //; so called from the ^Hole Bourne', or Fleet Brook, which once flowed through the hollow near here), a street which survived the Great Fire, and still contains a considerable number of old houses. Milton once lived here, and it was by this route that condemned criminals used to be conducted to Tyburn. The increas- ing traffic indicates that we are approaching the City. On the right are several side - streets, leading to Lincoln s Inn Fields (with the Sonne Museum^ etc., see pp. 177-179). Red Lion Street on the left, continued by Lamb's Conduit Street and Lamb Street, leads to Guilford Street, on the N. side of which stands the — Foundling Hospital (PI. R, 32), a remarkable establishment founded by Captain Thomas Coram in 1739 for 'deserted children'. Since 1760, however, it has not been used as a foundling hospital, but as a home for illegitimate children, whose mothers are known. (Neither in London nor in any other part of England are there any foundling hospitals in the proper sense of the term, such as the 'Hospice des Enfants Trouve's' in Paris.) The number of the children is about 500, and the yearly income of the Hospital, 13,000^ In the Board Room and the Secretary's Room are a number of pictures, chiefly painted about the middle of last century. They include the fol- lowing: Hogarth, *March to Finchley, and Finding of Moses ; portraits by Ramsay, Reynolds, and Shackleton; views of the Foundling Hospital and St. George's Hospital by Wilson; view of the Charterhouse by Gains- borough. The Board Room also contains a good portrait of Coram by Hogarth. Most of the pictures were presented to the institution by the artists themselves. (The success with which the exhibition of these pic- tures was attended is said to have led to the first exhibition of the Royal Academy in 1760.) The hospital also possesses Raphael's cartoon of the Massacre of the Innocents, a bust of Handel and some of his musical MSS., a collection of coins or tokens deposited with the children (1741-60), etc. The Chapel is adorned with an altarpiece by ]V'e«< , representing Christ blessing little children ; the organ was a gift from Handel. Divine ser- vice, at which the children are led in singing by trained voices , is per- formed on Sundays at 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. The Hospital is shown to visi- tors on Sundays, after morning service, and on Mondays from 10 to 4. The attendants are forbidden to accept gratuities, but a contribution to the funds of the institution is expected from the visitor on leaving or in the church-olTertory. To the E. of Lincoln's Inn are Chancery Lane (p. 136) on the right (after which we are in the City), and Gray's Inn Road (p. 139) on the left. Then Holhorn Viaduct., Newgate, etc., see pp.92, 93. 21. Regent's Park. Zoological Gardens. Botanic Gardens. Primrose Hill. Lord's Cricket Ground. Regent's Park (Vl. B, 15, 16, 19, 20) was laid out during the last years of the reign of George III., and derives its name from the then Prince Regent, afterwards George IV. It occupies the site of an earlier park called Marylebone Park. The name Marylebone is said to be a corruption of Mary on Tyburn (Mary-le-hourneJ, ^ — 1 ™ w ^i^iSi^S™*^ lUj_g.«>»^* S ^•-H^ 21. ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS. 229 Tyburn being a small brook, coming from Kilburn and flowing into tbe Thames. It crossed Oxford Street a little to the K. of the Marble Arch and flowed through St. James's Park, leaving its mark upon Brook Street, Grosvenor Square, and notably upon 'Tyburn, that melancholy old place of execution situated about the lower corner of Edgware Koad. It has also given its name to Tyburniu, the quarter of London situated to the N. of Hyde Park. In the time of Queen Elizabeth, Marylebone Park was filled with deer and game. Under the Commonwealth the land was cleared of the woods and used as pasturage. Afterwards trees were again planted, footpaths constructed, and a large artificial lake formed. The Park, which is one of the largest in London, embraces 472 acres of ground, and extends from York Gate, Marylebone Road, to Primrose Hill. Within its precincts are situated several private residences, among which is St. Dunstan's Villa with the clock and the automatic figures from the church of St. Dunstan's in Fleet Street (see p. 135). The gardens of the Zoological Society (founded by Sir Humphrey Davy and Sir Stamford Raffles in 1826) occupy a large space in the N. part of the Park, which also contains the gardens of the Botanical Society and the Toxopholite (Archery) Society. The Park is surrounded by a broad drive known as the Outer Circle. In summer a band generally plays in the Park on Sun. afternoons in the Kiosk a little to the S. of the Zoological Gardens (PL P., 20). The **Zoological Gardens are bounded on the N. by the Regent's Canal and intersected by tlie Outer Circle, which here runs parallel with the canal. They are thus divided into two portions , which, however, communicate with each other by means of a tunnel constructed under the drive. The principal entrance is in the Outer Circle (the Main Entrance in the Plan) ; ingress may also be obtained from the Broad Walk, at the S.E. angle of the gardens (see PL, South Entrance), or from Albert Road, Primrose Hill, on the N. side of the canal (lYorf/t Entrance in the Plan). The Main Entrance is about 3/4 M. from the Portland Koad Station of the Metropolitan Railway, from which the S. Entrance is a little less remote, while both gates are about 2/4 M. from the Chalk Farm Station of the North- Western and North London Railways. The Baker Street Station (Metropolitan) is about 3/4 M. from the S. entrance, which is only 300yds. from Gloucester Road, where omnibuses from all parts of London pass at frequent intervals. The North Entrance is ( •> ^^• from Chalk Farm and 3 4 M. from St. John's Wood iioatM Metro- politan Railway), and is passed by Camden Town and Paddington omnibuses. (Carriages may not drive along the Broad Walk.) The Zoological Gardens are open daily from 9 a.m. to sunset; admission Is., on Mondays 6d., children half-price except on Mon- days ; on Sundays only by order obtained from a member. The total number of visitors in 1888 was 608,402. The band of the Life (ruards usually plays here on Saturdays at 4p.m. 230 21. ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS. Many of the animals conceal themselves during the day in their holes and dens, under water, or among the shrubbery ; the best time to visit them, accordingly, is at the feeding-hour, when even the lethargic carnivora are to be seen in a state of activity and ex- citement. The pelicans are fed at 2. 30, the otters at 3, the eagles at 3. 30 [except Wednesdays"), the beasts of prey at 4, the seals and sea-lions at 4.30, and the diving birds in the flsh-house (PI. 37) at 12 and 5 p.m. The snakes receive their weekly meal on Friday, but visitors are not admitted to this curious spectacle without the express permission of the Director of the Gardens. Those who have not time to explore the Gardens thoroughly had better follow the route indicated on the plan by arrows , so as to see the most interesting animals in the shortest possible time, avoiding all unnecessary deviations. On entering from the Outer Circle (PI., Main Entrance), we turn to the right, and first reach the Western Aviary (PI. 1), which is 170 ft. long, and contains 200 different kinds of birds , chiefly from Australia, the Indian Archipelago, and South America. Then, passing the Crows (PI. la) and the Cranes and Storks (PI. 2), we reach, on the left, the — * Monkey House (PI. 3), which always attracts a crowd of amused spectators. The unpleasant odour is judiciously disguised by num- erous plants and flowers. The bats are also kept here. We next return (to the right) to the Storks, Pheasants (PI. 2), and Emeus (PI. 4), by which we pass to the left, and then take another turning on the right leading to the Rodents (PI. 6), Swine (PI. 7), and Southern Ponds for Water Fowl(F\. 5 ; about 50 different kinds). We then proceed to the left, along the other side of the Southern Ponds and past the Sheep Sheds (PI. 8), to the Sea-Lions' Pond (PI. 9). To the right is the Sheep Yard (9 A), built in 1885 for the Burrhel, or blue wild sheep, from the Himalayas. To the S.E. of this point are the new Wolves^ and Foxes' Dens (PI. 9B). We now continue our walk (see Plan) to the large ^Lion House (PI. 10), which is 230 ft. long and 70 ft. wide. In addition to its living occupants it contains a bust of Sir Stamford Raffles (d. 1826), the first president of the Zoological Society. We now retrace our steps, and pass along the open-air enclosures at the back of the Lion House to the Antelope House (PI. 11). Issuing thence, we proceed straight on, past the Bear Pit (PI. 14), to the southern front of the dens formerly occupied by the lions and tigers, but now containing Hyenas and Bears (PI. 12 and 13). The terrace above affords a view of the bear-pit and the pond for the Polar Bears. We next turn to the right, and pass through the arch- way near the Camels (PL 16). Then, leaving the Clock Tower on the right and the Eagle Owls (PL 15) on the left, and passing more Water Fowl (PL 17) on the left, and the Eastern Aviary (PL 19) on the right, we reach the pavilion of the *Pelicans (PL 18). 21. ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS. 231 From the pelicans we retrace our steps to the vicinity of the Clock Tower, and bear to the left to the Northern Pond (PI. 20). which contains more water-fowl, liy continuing to the left we reacii the Owls' Cages (Pl.'2i ), at the hack of which is the Llamas' House (F\. 22). This should not be approached too closely on account of the unpleasant expectorating propensities of its inmates. A little farther on is the pond containing the Mandarin Ducks (PI. 28). Between the two, on our left, is the entrance to the tunnel, which we pass in the meantime. Opposite, on the right, are the Otters fPl. 24) and the Kites [PI. 25); to the N.E., on the left, lies the Civet House [PI. 26). We now turn to the right and proceed to the south. We first reach, on the left, the Small Mammals (PI. 27; the house may be entered), on the right the Ducks (PI. 29); then, on the left, the Flying Squirrels (PI. 26) and the Racoons (PI- 30j, near which is the refreshment room (see below). Continuing in a straight direction past the Vultures(¥]. 31) and another small aviary containing Bateleur Eagles, we reach the S. Entrance, which we leave on the left. Near the entrance is the new Deer House (PI. 32), behind which are the Cattle Sheds (PI. 34; containing, amongst other specimens, the bison, cape buffalo, zebu, and gayal). Opposite the Deer House are aviaries containing Pheasants and Peacocks (PI. 31a). We now turn to the left, and after a few paces reach the new *Reptile House (PI. 33), to the E. of the Lion House. This contains an extensive collection of large serpents, lizards, alligators, and crocodiles. Here also is the Manatee (sea-cow or cow-whale), an interesting and recent acquisition. At this point we turn back and walk straight on, past the front of the Cattle Sheds, to the Three Island Pond (PI. 36), stocked with water-fowl, among which are specimens of the black-necked swan. The path leading first to the left and then to the right, passing (opposite) more Water Fowl (PI. 35), leads to the *Fish-House (PI. 37), containing a fine collection of fish and small aquatic birds. The ^Refreshment Rooms (PI. 38, 39) here afford a welcome opportunity for a rest. From the Refreshment Rooms we proceed towards the N.W. past the Eagles' Aviaries (PI. 40), having on our left the Rails (PI. 41), and pass through the tunnel leading into the N. section of the gardens. Here we first go straight on, across the canal-bridge, on the other side of which are the Northern Aviary (PI. 42; for birds of prey); the Tortoise House (PI. 43); and the new *Insectarium ( PI. 44), containing insects, land-crustaceans, chameleons, toads, tree-frogs, terrapins, electric eels, and birds of paradise. Between tlie tortoise-house and the insectarium is the North Entrance, op- posite which are paddocks containing Japanese and Axis Deer. We now recross the bridge and turn to the left to the Small Cats House (PI. 44a) and Lecture Room (PI. 45), the latter adorned with water-colour sketches of animals. Adjoining the Lecture Room are 232 21. BOTANIC GARDENS. the Marsupials' House (PI. 46), containing the great ant-eater, the "^■Sloths' House (PI. 47), and a Kangaroo Shed (PI. 48). The Sloths' House contains at present some of the most interesting immates of the Gardens, in the form of three Chimpanzees, one of which ('Sally') has been here since 1883. 'Sally', who is very lively and intelligent, performs many little tricks at the command of her keep- er. Opposite are another ^an^aroo an stag (archaic relief); 145, 146. Cupid bending his bow; 147. Relief of a youth holding a horse; 148. Endymion asleep; **149. Iconic female "bust (the so-called Clytie), perhaps of a Roman empress; 150. Head of a wounded Amazon; *151. Head of hero (Greek original), restored byFlaxman; *155. Statue of the Muse Thalia, from Ostia; 157. Relief of Nessus and Dejanira(?); 159. Apotheosis of Homer, relief with the name of the sculptor, Archelaus of Priene (found at Bovillu', of the time of Tiberius); 100. Head of woman in Asiatic costume; 161. Bust of unknown person (bust and nose restored) ; 162. Youth in Persian costume, restored as Paris; 163. Mithras sacrificing a bull; 165. Actscon devoured by his dogs [from Lanuvium) ; 166. Head of Venus; 169. Relief, Victory sacrificing to Apollo. — West side: *171. Mercury; *Boy extracting thorn from his foot, found on the Esquiline Hill (marble, under glass); 35. Head of Mercury from Tivoli. — South side: 176. Relief, Bacchus visiting Icarius; 177. Midas(?); 179. Part of a Bacchic Thiasus ; 172. Torso of Venus; 188, 190. Fauns ; Diana in the archaistic style of the 1st cent.; 183, 184. Satyrs; 185. Venus (from Ostia); li8. Satyr, freely restored; 189. Bacchus and Ambrosia ; 186. Part of a group of two boys quar- relling at play; 191. Relief of Ariadne (V Penelope, from Cimia'); 193. Youthful Bacchus; 195. Bacchic relief with two sitting satyrs; 240 22. THE BRITISH MUSEUM. 196. Girl playing with astragali; 198. Ariadue with the panther; 199. Head of youthful Hercules; 201. Eros asleep; 200. Relief re- presenting Apollo, Latona, and Diana, with three worshippers; 202. Head of Venus ; 204. Head of youthful Hercules. The door on the right leads into the Archaic Room ; the stair- case at the extreme end descends to the — Grseco-Roman Basement Room, which contains Greek and Ro- man sculptures of various kinds : sarcophagi, reliefs, vases, foun- tain basins, candelabra, table supports, animals, etc. The floor is decorated with a mosaic from a Roman villa at Halicarnassus, 40 ft. long and IS'^ft. broad, at the upper end of which is represented Amphitrite with two Tritons. On the E. wall is a mosaic from Carthage of a colossal head of Neptune. Adjacent are two sacrificial groups in marble, and a relief of two gladiators struggling with a bull. — The annex contains the heavier objects belonging to the Etruscan collection (p. 251), other sculptures, and. miscellaneous objects. The door on the right in the Third Grseco-Roman Room leads into the — Archaic Room, which chiefly contains archaic remains from Asia Minor. In the centre: *Reliefs from the '■Harpy Tomb' at Xanthus (at the sides sacrificial scenes ; at the ends forms like sirens, bearing away small figures intended to represent depart- ed souls, whose gestures indicate that they are trying to propi- tiate their captors and gain their compassion). At the W. end of the room are ten sitting figures, a lion, and a sphynx, of very early date (580-520 B.C.), which once formed part of the Sacred Way leading to the Temple of Apollo at Branchidae. On the N. wall is an archaic marble frieze from Xanthus in Lycia, above which are plaster casts of four metopes from Selinus in Sicily. Plaster casts of works of art found in the recent German excavations at Perga- mus and Olympia. Among the other works in this room are : *32. Apollo, a celebrated archaic work from the Choiseul-Gouffler col- lection ; 30, 31. Other archaic figures of Apollo; 45. Bull, pro- bably from a sepulchral stele at Athens ; several archaic inscrip- tions, etc. The Greek Ante-Room, a small chamber to the N., contains, on the right, a sitting figure of Demeter (Ceres); on the left, two swine (sacred to Proserpine), and other sculptures, found in 1858 at the Temple of the Infernal Deities at Cnidus, a head (eyes of enamel lost), a statuette of Persephone (under glass), and a discus with relief of Apollo and Artemis slaying the children of Niobe. Here also are two cases with statuettes, small heads, and sculp- tured fragments from Cyrene. The Ephesus Room contains fragments of the celebrated Temple of Diana, found by Mr. J. T. Wood in the course of excavations at Ephesus in 1869-74. The remains consist chiefly of the drums and 22. THE BRITISH MUSEUM. '21 1 capitals of columns, and fragments of bases and cornices. AmoiiK them is the lowest drum of a column with lifcsizc reliefs of Her- mes, Victoria, and a warrior. In this room are placed casts of the Olympian Hermes by Praxiteles, the Venus of Milo (Lonvre), and the Venus de" Medici. To tlie right is the lower half of a statue of Lucius Verus from Ephesus, proved by the inscription to have been erected before A. D. 161. We now reach the — **Elgin Eoom, containing the famous Elgin MarbUs , being the remains of the sculptures executed by Phidias to adorn the Parthenon at Athens, and considered the finest specimens of the plastic art in existence. They were brought from Athens in 1801-3 by Lord Elgin, at that time British ambassador at Con- stantinople , at a cost of 70,000i., and sold to the English Govern- ment in 1816 for half that sum. The Parthenon, the Temple of Pallas Athena on the Acropolis of Athens, was built by Ictinos, about B.C. 440, in the time of Pericles, the golden age of Athens and of Hellenic art. It was in the Doric order of architecture, and occupied the site of an earlier temple of Athena, which had been destroyed in the Persian war. It was adorned with sculptures under the supervision of Phidias. A statue of Athena , formed of gold and ivory, stood in the interior of the cella. The sculptures preserved here consist of the frieze round the exterior of the cella, ISmetopae, and the relics of the two pediments, unfortunately in very imperfect preservation. The figures of the deities represented are most nobly conceived, admirably executed, and beautifully draped. The remains of the E. Pediment , representing the Birth of Athena, who, according to Greek mythology, issued in full armour from the head of Zeus, are arranged on the W. (left) side of the room. In the left angle of the tympanum we observe two arms and a mutil- ated human head, in front of which are two spirited horses' heads, also considerably damaged. These are considered to represent a group of Helios , the god of the rising sun , ascending in his chariot from the depths of the ocean, his outstretched arms grasping the reins of his steeds. Next comes Theseus (or Hercules?). Avho. leaning in a half re- cumbent posture on a rock covered with a lion's hide, seems tj be greet- ing the ascending orb of day. This figure, the only one on which the head remains, is among the best preserved in the two pediments. Kext to Theseus is a group of two sitting female figures in long drapery, who turn with an appearance of lively interest towards the central group — perhaps the Attic Hours. Thallo and Auxo (or Ceres and Proserpine Vj. Then comes the erect female figure of Iris, messenger of the gods, whose waving robes betoken rapid motion; the upper part of her body is turned towards the central group, and she seems to have barely wait- ed for the birth of the Goddess before starting to communicate the glad tidings to the inhabitants of earth. The central group, which probably represented Minerva surrounded by the gods, is entirely wanting. The space occupied by it, indicated here lartly of the contests of the Greeks with the Centaurs, and three metopse from the same temple with sculptures of the feats of Theseus. To^tards the N. end of the room is one of the beautiful *Cane- phorje from the Erechtheum (oth cent. B.C.); near it are an Ionic column from the same building, which is the purest existing type of the Ionic style, and a colossal owl. Among the numerous other sculptures in the Elgin Room are casts of two marble chairs from the theatre of Dionysos at Athens fone on each side of the entrance) ; a head of Pericles (apparently a Roman copy of a Greek original ) ; a head of Hera from Agrigentuni ; a draped *Torso of -(?^sculapius from Epidauros; a colossal sitting figure of Dionysos from the Choragic Monument of Thrasyllos at Athens ; fragments of columns from the Temple of Diana at Ephc- sus; the capital of a Doric column from the Propyla-um, the magnificent entrance to the Acropolis ; a statue of a youth, pro- bably Eros, from Athens. This room also contains a model of the Acropolis and another representing the Parthenon as it appeared after its bombardment by the Venetian General Morosini in 1687. The hall continuing the Elgin Room on the N. contains a colos- sal lion from an eminence atCnidus, originally surmounting a pyra- midal Doric monument, which was perhaps erected to commemor- ate the naval victory of Conon, the Athenian, over the Spartans in B.C. 394. We now pass through the door in the centre of the E. side, and enter the — Hellenic Room, which at present contains marble sculptures from every part of Greece and the Grecian colonies except Athens and Attic settlements, and also plaster casts. [The Nereid Monument from the entrance -hall is soon to be transferred to this room, and most of its present contents will be shifted to other parts of the Museum. The frieze of the Temple of Apollo Epicurius at Bassa- has already been removed to the Phigaleian room (p. 244).] The bust to the right of the door is .l^schines, that on the left an unknown philosopher. On the pedestals arranged round the room are a colossal torso of a heroic figure, found at Ela*a; a Dia- dumenos (a replica of the celebrated work of Polycletus); two other athletes; a bust of Euripides; head of Alexander the Great, from Alexandria. To the ripht of the E. door: Colossal head of Hcr.ni- les; to the left, Statue of Dionysos (Indian Bacchus) from Posilipo; Iconic female figure Irom the temenos of Demeter, Cnidus; *Hca.i of youth with a fillet. Hi* 244 22. THE BRITISH MUSEUM. On the S. wall are plaster casts of a pediment of the Temple of Athena at ^Egina, the original of which is at Munich. Lower down, round the walls, are ranged sculptural and architectural remains, among which may be noticed the fragment of a recumbent satyr at the entrance door. We now descend the steps on the left to the Mausoleum Room, added in 1882, containing remains from the *^Mausoleum at Hali- carnassus, discovered by Newton in 1857. This celebrated monument (whence the modern generic term 'mausoleum' is derived) was erected by Artemisia in B.C. 352, in honour of her husband Mausolus, King of Caria, and was reckoned among the Seven Wonders of the World. The tomb stood upon a lofty basement, and was surrounded by 36 Ionic columns. Above it was a pyramid rising in steps (24 in number), surmounted by a colossal statue of Mausolus. The monument was in all about 140 ft. in height, and was embellished by a number of statues, lions, and other pieces of sculpture. Among the remains of it preserved in the British Museum are the following: Wheel from the chariot of Mausolus, restored in harmony with the fragments that have been found ; fore and hind quarters of one of the colossal horses attached to the chariot of Mausolus ; a female figure found under the ruins of the pyramid ; *Statue of Mausolus , restored from 77 fragments. Near it is a head of ^Esculapius from Melos. Frieze (zoophorus) from the Mausoleum , representing the contest of the Greeks with the Amazons. Among other fragments is a frieze, in bad preservation, representing races and the battle of the Greeks with the Centaurs. Female torso ; eight lions ; fragment of an equestrian figure in Persian garb ; part of a colossal ram ; fragments of columns from the Mausoleum. The room also contains a cast of a metope, the Sun God in his chariot, from the Doric temple of Ilium Novum, presented by Dr. Schliemann in 1872; a number of mar- bles from the Temple of Athene Polias atPrlene, including the dedication of the Temple by Alexander, a colossal arm, hand, foot, and female head, and a diaped female torso. At the N. end of the room is a reproduction of the cornice of the Mausoleum. The door at the N.W. corner of the Mausoleum Room leads to two new rooms, one above the other. The upper room, which forms a gallery in continuation of the Elgin Room, is to contain the marbles from Phigaleia and from the Temple of Victory at Athens, as well as the finest of the Greek sepulchral stelae. In the room below will be placed sepulchral monuments of Grseco-Roman origin. The ar- rangements are still incomplete. Among the most beautiful of the Greek Sepulchral Monuments are the tombstones of two young athletes found at Athens, in one of which the athlete hands his strigil to his slaA-e, while the other stands alone hold- ing the strigil. Another represents two ladies of Smyrna, to whom the city had voted honorary crowns. Curious relief of a Greek physician and his patient. Stele from Ehodes with a family group. Sepulchral tablet with a skeleton, and an inscription asking the passer-by if he can now 22. THE BRITISn MUSEUM. 245 tell whether the deceased had been a Hylas (beautiful) or a ThcrsiJes (ugly). — Roman Works. Tomb-reliefs with portrait-busts, erne found iu the Thames. -Bas-relief of a Rnman marria-^e, apparently the work of a Greek artist in Italy about the time of Hadrian. Friezes of children. Sarcnphagus reliefs. The Sepulcbral Urn^ include one dedicated by a slave to his master, one in the form of the facade of a temple, etc. We now return across the N. end of the Mausoleum Room to the Assyrian and Egyptian collections, which, next to the Klpiii lioom , are the most important parts of the British Museum. Tiie **Assyrian Gallery comprises three long narrow rooms, callt-d the Kouyunjik Gallery, the Nimroud Central Saloon, and the Mtnr'iwl Gallery] tlie Assyrian Transept, adjoining the last of these three ; the Phoenician Room and Assyrian Basement Room; and finally a room [p. 249) on the second floor. Its contents are chiefly tlie yield of the excavations of Sir H. A. Layard in 1847-50 at Kouyunjik, the ancient Nineveh, and at Nimroud, the Biblical Calah, but in- clude the collection made by Mr. George Smith in Mesopotamia, as well as contributions from other sources. The Zouyimjik Gallery contains bas-reliefs dating from B.C. 721-025, and belonging to the royal palace of Sennacherib (d. B.C. 710) at Nineveh, afterwards occupied by Sennacherib's grandson. Assurbanipal or Sardanapalus. The older reliefs, dating from the time of Sennacherib, are executed in alabaster, the others in hard, light-grey limestone. We begin our examination at the S.E. corner. No. 1. E.'^arhaddon, cast from a bas-relief cut in the rock, at the mouth of the Xahr el- Kelb river, near Beirut; 2. Galley with two banks of oars; 4-8. Row of frag- ments (upper part damaged), representing Sennacherib's advance against Babylon; 15-17. Return from battle with captives and spoil; 18-19. Proces- sion of warriors; 20-29. Siege of a fortified town (on slab 2fo. 25 is the city itself, while 27-29 represent the triumph of the victors). ~Nos. 34-43. Series of large reliefs, which decorated the walls of a long passage between the palace and the Tigris; on one side, descending the slope, are 14 horses, held by attendants; on the other, ascending, servants with dishes for a feast. The figures, rather under life-size, are beautifully designed. No. 44. Monumental tablet; 45-50. Triumph of Sardanapalu.^ over the Elamites (in limestone, well preserved). Nos. 51-52. Removal of a winged bull on a sledge by means of wooden rollers and levers; to the right, constructinn of a lofty embankment. Nos. 53-.o6. Similar scenes in better preservation ; 57-59. Sennacherib besieging a city situated on a river (quaintly repre- sented), and receiving the spoil and prisoners; (50. Figure with the head of a lion, bearing a knife in the right hand, which is held up. In the middle of the hall is a white limestone obelisk, found by Mr. Rassam, and near it the upper part of another. At the 8. end of the room is a black marble obelisk, adorned with five rows of reliefs; the inscriptions, in cxineiform characters, record events from the histur> of Shalmaneser. The glass-cases contain smaller ol)jects, such as seal-. cut stones, cylindrical writing rolls, fragments of cuneiform characters, necklaces, bracelets, statuettes, iron and bronze ornaments, etc. — NVe now enter the — Nimroud Central Saloon, containing the sculptures (dating from B.C. ««0-630 ) , discovered by Mr. Layard at Nimroud, on the Tigris, situated about 18 M. below Nineveh. They are from the palace built by Esarhaddon, the successor of Sennacherib, but some of them are of a much earlier date than that monarch, who 246 1% THE BRITISH MUSEUM. used the fragments of older buildings. The reliefs on the left are from a Temple of the God of War. We begin to the left of the entrance from the Kouyunjik Gallery. Large relief, representing the evacuation of a conquered city ; below, the triumphal procession of a king in his war-chariot. Inscribed stone, with records of Merodach Baladan I., King of Babylonia (B.C. 1320). Colossal head of a winged man-headed bull; adjacent, another similar, but smaller head. At the central pillars, two statues of the god Nebo. At the entrance to the Nimroud Gallery, on the right, a colossal winged *Lion ; on the left, a colossal winged bull , both with human heads; adja- cent on each side, reliefs of two winged male figures sacrificing. Then bas-reliefs, evacuation of a conquered town. Monolith (figure in relief with cuneiform inscription) of Assur-Is^asir-Pal (B.C. 8S0)-, monolith of Shalmaneser (B.C. 850). Statue of Assur-Xasir-Pal. At the entrance to the Kouyunjik Gallery, a colossal lion from the side of a doorway (B. C. 880). Between this room and the Egyptian Central Saloon is the Hittite Monu- ment, of basalt, 6 ft. high, from Jerahis, the supposed site of Karkemish; on one side is a sculptured figure, probably of a priest, and on the other is an inscription in hieroglyphics. Also other Hittite fragments. The table- cases contain clay tablets. Nimroud Gallery. On the left, colossal bas-reliefs; 18. Winged figure with ibex and ear of corn ; 19. Foreigners bringing apes as tri- bute; 20. King Assur-Nasir-Pal in a richly embroidered dress, with sword and sceptre ; '23-26. The king on his throne surrounded by atten- dants and winged figures with mystic offerings; 28, 29. Winged figure with a thunderbolt, chasing a demon; 36. Lion hunt; 31-41. Represen- tation of religious service ; then various martial and hunting scenes. The slabs with the larger reliefs bear inscriptions running horizontally across their centres. The glass-cases in the middle of the room contain bronze dishes with engraved and chased decorations, admirably executed, other bronze articles of different kinds , weights in the form of lions couchant, weapons, domestic utensils, etc. Cases D, C are occupied by a collection of ivory 'Carvings, with Egyptian figures. In the centre of the room is a broken obelisk of Assur-Xasir-Pal and at the N. end is a monolith of Samsi Rammanu , son of Shalmaneser II. (B.C. 826-812). — The door in the N.W. corner of this room leads into the — Phoenician Room, which contains monuments from Phcenicia, Palestine, Carthage, and Cyprus. In the middle of the room is a cast of the Moabite Stone ^ which was discovered by the Rev. F. Klein in the land of Moab in 1868. The inscription gives an account of the wars of Mesha, king of Moab, with Omri, Ahab, and Ahaziah, kings of Israel. Soon after Mr. Klein had obtained an impression of the stone, it was broken in pieces by the Arabs; most of the fragments have, however, been recovered and are now preserved in the Louvre. Adjacent are a Massebdh^ or monument of alabaster from Larnaca, erected to the god Eshmun about B.C. 380, and a colossal marble head of a sarcophagus from Sidon. To the left are Hebrew gravestones. Cases 1-6 contain Phoenician inscrip- tions from the site of ancient Carthage. In Cases 7-12 are Hebrew and Phoenician inscriptions from Palestine and the Dngga stone from Numidia,with a bilingual inscription in Libyan and Phoenician. Cases 13-19 contain Phoenician inscriptions and a cast oftheSiloam Inscription (ca. B.C. 700), found in 1880 at the Pool of Siloam. We now desnend the staircase to the Assyrian Basement Room, containing reliefs from Kouyunjik, exoavated by Messrs. 22. THE BRITISH MUSEUM. 247 Rassam and Loftus. These reliefs, belonging to the latest period of Assyrian art, are throughout superior to those in the upper rooms, both in design and execution. (^The numbers begin in the central part of the room.) Nos. 1-8. Scenes of war; Bringing home the heads and siidil of con- quered enemies-, Warriors preparing their repast. Nos. 33-.o3. Linn hunt; 54 62. Plundering of a city; 63-74. Return from the hunt fseciuel t» Nos. 33-53); 83-90. Wars of Sardanapalus; 91-94. Hostile army fleeing past an Assyrian fortress; 95. Beheading of the King of Susiana; 104-119. Tliree rows of scenes of gazelle, wild ass, and lion hunting, admirably execut- ed ; 120. Captives at their repast; 121. Sardanapalus and his wife ban- queting in an arbour; 122. Lion hunt. In the middle are three glass cases containing smaller objects. Near them is a piece of pavement from the palace of Sardanapalus. By the door is a cast of the Sarcophagus of Eshmunazar (ca. B.C. 360; (riginal in the Louvre). The Nimroud Gallery is adjoined on the S. by the Assyrian Transept, wbich in its western half is a continuation of the Nim- roud Gallery (monuments from the time of Assur-Nasir- Pal ), while'the eastern part contains antiquities from Khorsabad (about B.C. 720), from the excavations of Messrs. Rawlinson and Layard. In the middle of the W. side is the monolith of Assur-Xasir-Pal, with a portrait in relief. In front of it is an altar, which stood at the door of the Temple of the God of War. At the sides are two colossal winged *Lions, with human heads and three horns, from the sides of a doorway. At the sides of the entrance from the Nimroud Gallery are two torsos with inscriptiims. On the wall are reliefs and inscriptions from the pal- ace of the Persian kings at Persepolis (B C. 500j and casts of Pehlevi ins.;riptions from Hadji Abad (near Persepolis). The glass-cases in the centre contain a ccjUection of archaic sculptures, heads, statues, and inscriptions from Idalium (Dali), in Cyprus, excavated in 1870. — In the E. or Khorsabad section, two colossal animals with human heads, adjacent to which are two colossal human figures. Within the recess thus formed are fragments of various kinds; heads and figures of warriors and horses; to the right, opposite the window, a relief of a hunting scene in black marble. In the middle are two cases containing antiquities frcjm Idalium. In the centre is a black basalt figure of Shaliuaneser in a sitting posture, much injured. To the left of the doorway leading into the Egyptian gallery are two heads in the Egyptian style and the upper part of a draped statue of a deity with a wreath, from Idalium; and to the right are several small statues from the same place. The collection of *Egyptian Antiquities fills three halls on the ground-floor, and four rooms in the upper story. The antiquities, which embrace the period from B.C. 3000 to A.D. 640, are ar- ranged in chronological order. The Southern Gallery, which we enter first, is devoted to antiquities of the latest period. Southern Egyptian Gallery. Section 1: niunumcnts of the period i>{ the Roman dominiou. Section 2: time of the Ptolemies. In the middle is the celebrated 'Stone of Rosetta', a tablet of black basalt with a triple inscription. It was found by the French near the Rosetta mouth of the Nile, but passed into the possession of the English in 18(>2. One of tlie inscriptions is in the hieroglyphic or sacred character, the .second in the enchorial, demotic, or popular character, and the third in C.r.-.k. It was these inscriptions which led Young aiid Cuampollion to the dis- covery of the hiero!:lyphic language of ancient Egypt. The remaining part of the gallery contains monuments from the 30th to the I9lh Dynasty (beginning about B.C. 1200). To the left are fragments of green »^a-'*j>lt with reliefs; to the left, sarcophagus of King Nectanebo I. (about B.C. .-U.O), with reliefs; to the right, sarcophagus of a priest of Jlemphis; right and 248 22. THE BRITISH MUSEUM. left, two obelisks from the temple of Thoth at Memphis. — To the left, granite sarcophagus from Cairo; to the right, 'Sarcophagus of the Queen of Amasis II. (from Thebes); to the left, Psammetichus I. sacrificing, a relief in basalt. — To the left, statue of the Nile; to the right, Apries; right and left, two sitting figures of the goddess 8ekhet or Bast (with the head of a cat), between which is a colossal scarabseus in granite. — To the right, sitting figures of a man and a woman, in sandstone; to the left, King Menephtah II. on his throne. The — Central Egyptian Saloon, chiefly contains antiquities of the times of Kamses the Great, the Sesostris of the Greeks. In the middle is a colossal fist from one of the statues in front of the Temple of Ptah, Memphis; to the left, two colossal heads, the one a cast from a figure of Ramses at Mitrahineh, the other in granite from the Memnonium at Thebes. To the right, a statue of the king in black basalt. Between the columns, at the entrance to the Northern Gallery, on the right, granite statue of Ramses II., from Thebes; to the left, a wooden figure of King Sethos 1. [To the E. of the Central Egyptian Saloon, opposite the entrance to the Hellenic Room (p. 243), is the Refreshment Room (poor).] Northern Egyptian Gallery, chiefly containing antiquities of the time of the 18th Dynasty, under which Egypt enjoyed its greatest prosperity. On the left and right, statues of King Horus in black granite, and two lions in red granite (from Nubia). In the centre is a colossal ram's head from Karnak. To the right and left are sitting figures of King Ameno- phis III., in black granite, from Thebes. On the left is a tablet recording the Ethiopian conquests of Amenophis III. Opposite is a colossal head of Amenophis III., called by the Greeks Memnon (B.C. 1500); De Quincey speaks of this head as uniting 'the expressions of ineflable benignity with infinite duration'. On the left, column with a capital of lotus leaves. To the right and left are two colossal heads, found near the 'Vocal Memnon', at The- bes. Several repetitions of the statue of the goddess Bast, which is distin- guished by the cat's head (in accordance with the Egyptian custom of repre- senting deities with the heads of the animals sacred to them). Black granite figure of Queen Mautemua seated in a boat. In the middle is the colossal head of King Thothmes III., found at Karnak , adjoining which on the right is one of the arms of the same figure. On the right is a monument, the four sides of which are covered with figures of Thothmes III. and gods. To the left, small sandstone figure of an Egyptian prince. — The glass-cases at the sides are filled with smaller antiquities of granite, basalt, alabaster, and other materials. A hieroglyphical papyrus of Mutnetem, a queen of the 21st dynasty, is also exhibited on a stand in the middle of the room. The — Northern Egjrptian Vestibule contains antiquities of the period em- braced by the first twelve dynasties, and particularly that of the fourth dynasty (about 3000 B.C.), when Egypt enjoyed a very high degree of civilisation. Above the door is a plaster cast of the head of the northern colossal figure of Ramses at Ipsamboul. Opposite the Northern Vestibule is a staircase leading to the Upper Floor. On the wall of the staircase are Mosaics from Hali- carnassus, Carthage, and Utica. The ante -room at the top of the stairs is empty at present. To the left are four rooms filled with smaller Egyptian antiquities. [The order followed below will very soon be altered , as the old Etruscan Room is to be added to the Egyptian series, an addition which will cause a complete re-arrange- ment of this part of the collection.] First Egyptian Room. The first wall -cases contain an extensive collection of small figures of the Egyptian gods in various materials. 1. Amenra (Jupiter) and Chons (Hercules); 2. Muth, Munt-ra; 3. Ptah (Vul- can); 4. Bast or Pasht (Diana); 5. Ma (Truth), Ra (the Sun); 6. Athor ; 7-9. Osiris; 10,11. Isis; 12, 13. Various deities. Cases 14-19. Sacred ani- mals: jackal, cat, baboon, liun, owl, ibis, crocodile, snakes. Cases 22-28. 22. THE BRITISH MUSEUM. 240 Statuettes of kings and officials. Cases 1>9, 30. Pillowe or bead-rcHts in wood and clay. Cases 31-39. Chairs and .seats of dirtereiit kinds. Casi* 40-47. (in the middle). Stamped bricks, painted table, model of a house. Cases 48-58. Slices of calcareous stone with in.scriplions and uecn Kli/alicth, the punch- bowl of Kol>ert Burns, the Lochbuy brooch, and quadrants belonging to various English monarchs. In Table-case B. are objects illustrating magic, talismans, locks and keys, spoons, and knives. Table-cases C. D: Matrices of English seals and signet rings. Table-case E: Enamels, including a plaque representing Henry ofBlois. Bishop of Winchester and brother of King Stephen (1139-1146). Table-case F: Carvings in ivory and other materials. Table-case G : Matrices of foreign seals. Table-case K: Watches. Talile-case L: Objects used in games; curious set of chessmen of the 13th cent., from the island of Lewis in the Hebrides, made of walrus tusk. The Asiatic Saloon contains collections illustrating Buddhist mytho- logy (Cases 1-26), Hindoo mythology (119-123), Jain mythology (116-llS), and Shamanism (114,116). Cases 31-96 contain Oriental porcelain :iny a Collection of Japanese and Chinese Paintings, purchased from Mr. William Anderson in 1881 (special catalo-ue '2d.). The collection is divided int.. two series, each of which is arranged in historical order, and allords an admirable survey of the pictorial art of China and Japan. 254 2'2. THE BRITISH MUSEUM. We now return to the Asiatic Saloon and begin our inspection of the extensive and interesting Ethnographical Collection, which is arranged topographically and occupies the whole of the East Gallery. The Asiatic Section is first entered ; then follow the Oceanic, African, and American Sections, each containing a great variety of objects illustrating the habits, dress, warfare, handicrafts, etc., of the less civilised inhabitants of the different quarters of the globe. On the N. side of the spacious entrance hall, facing the entrance door, is a passage leading to the * Reading Room, construct- ed in 1855-57 at a cost of i50,000J; it is open from 9 a.m. to 7 or 8 p.m. ((-losed on the first four days of March and Octoberl. This imposing circular hall, covered by a large dome of glass and iron (140 ft. in diameter, or 1 ft. larger than the dome of St. Peter's at Rome, and 106 ft. high), has ample accommodation for 360 readers or writers. Around the superintendent, who occupies a raised seat in the centre of the room, are circular cases contain- ing the General Catalogue for the use of the readers (in about 2000 vols.) and various special catalogues and indexes. On the top of these cases lie printed forms (white for books, green for MSS.) to be filled up with the name and 'press-mark' [i. e. re- ference, indicated in the catalogue by letters and numerals, to its position in the book-cases) of the work required, and the number of the seat chosen by the applicant at one of the tables, which radiate from the centre of the room like the spokes of a wheel. The form when filled up is put into a little basket, placed for this purpose on the counter. One of the attendants will then procure the book required, and send it to the reader's seat. About 20,000 vols, of the books in most frequent request, such as dictionaries, encyclopaedias, histories, periodicals, etc., are kept in the reading- room itself, and may be used without any application to the library officials; while coloured plans, showing the positions of the various categories of these books, are distributed throughout the room. Every reader is provided with a chair, a folding desk, a small hinged shelf for books, pens, and ink, a blotting-pad, and a peg for his hat. The reader will probably find the arrangements of the British Museum Reading Room superior to those of most public libraries, while the obliging civility of the attendants, and the freedom from obtrusive supervision and restrictions are most grateful. The electric light has been introduced into the Reading Room and Galleries. — In the year 1858, the first after the opening of the New Reading Room, the number of readers amounted to 190,400, who consulted in all 877,897 books or an average of 3000 a day. In 1888 there were 188,432 readers, or 622 per day. A Description of the Reading Room may be had from the officials (id.'). Persons desirous of using the Reading Room must send a written application to the Principal Librarian, specifying their names, rank 23. ST. JAMKS S l'AI.\( K. 25r) or profession , and address, and enclosing a recommendation from some well-known householder in London. The applicant must not be under 21 years of age. The permission, whicli is prantcil without limit of term, is not transferable and is subject to with- drawal. The Reading Room tickets entitle to the use of the new Newspaper Room (comp. p. 236). It is possible for strangers to get permission to use the Reading Room for a single day by personal application at the office of the Principal Librarian, to tlie left of the First Graeco-Roman Room. Tickets for visitors to the Reading Room are obtained on the right side of the entrance hall. Visitors are not allowed to walk through the Reading Room, but may view it from the doorway. — The Libraries contain a collection of books and manuscripts, rivalled in extent by the National Library of I'aris alone. The number of printed books is about 1,500,000, and it in- creases at the rate of about 30,000 volumes per annum. 23. St. James's Palace and Park. Buckingham Palace. The site of St. James's Palace (PI. R, 22; 7V'), an irregular brick building at the S. end of St. Jauies's Street, was originally occupied by a hospital for lepers, founded previously to 1190. In 1532 the building came into the possession of Henry VIII., who erected inits place a royal palace, said to have been designed by Holbein. Here Oueen Mary died in 1558. Charles I. slept here the night before his execution, and walked across St. James's Park to Whitehall next morning (1649). The palace was considerably extended by Charles I., and, after Whitehall was burned down in 1691, it became the chief residence of the English kings from William III. to George IV. In 1809 a serious fire completely destroyed the eastern wing, so that with the exception of the interesting old brick gateway towards St. James's Street, the Chapel Royal, and the old Presence Chamber, there are few remains of the ancient palace of theTudors. The staterooms are sumptuously fitted up, and contain a number of portraits and other works of art. The initials HA above the chimney-piece in the Presence Chamber are a reminiscence of Henry VIII. and Anne Foleyn. It is difficult to obtain permission to inspect the interior. The guard is changed every day at 10.45 a m., when the fine bands of the Grenadier, Coldstream, or Fusilier Guards play for ^j^ hr. in the open court facing Marlborough House. Though St. James's Palace is no longer the residence of the sovereign, the British court is still officially known as the 'Court of St. James's'. On the N. side, entered from Colour Court, is the ChnpeL Royal, in which the Queen and some of the highest nobility have seats. Divine service is celebrated on Sundays at 10 a. m., 12 noon, and 5. 30 p. m. A limited number of strangers are admitted to the two latter services by tickets obtained from the Lord Chamberlain ; f<»r the service at 10 no ticket is required. — The marriage of Queen 256 23. ST. JAMES'S PARK. Victoria with Prince Albert, and those of some of their daughters, were celebrated in the Chapel Royal. Down to the death of Prince Albert in 1861, the Queen's Levies and Draxcing Roams were always held in St. James's Palace. Since then, however, the drawing-rooms have taken place at Buckingham Palace, but the levees are still held here. A leve'e differs from a drawing-room in this respect, that, at the former, gentlemen only are presented to the sovereign, while at the latter it is almost entirely ladies who are intro- duced, liichly dressed ladies; gentlemen, magnificent in gold-laced uni- forms; lackeys in gorgeous liveries, knee-breeches, silk stockings, and powdered hair, and bearing enormous bouquets; well-fed coachmen with carefully curled wigs and three-cornered hats; splendid carriages and horses, "which dash along through the densely packed masses of spectators; and a mounted band of the Life Guards, playing in front of the palace; — such, so far as can be seen by the spectators who crowd the adjoining streets, windows, and balconies, are the chief ingredients in the august ceremony of a 'Queen's Drawing Room'. A notice of the drawing-room, with thenames of the ladies presented, appears next day in the newspapers. In the life of a young English lady of the higher ranks her presen- tation at Court is an epoch of no little importance, for after attending her first drawing-room, she is considered 'out', and enters on the round of balls, concerts, and other gaieties, which often play so large a part in her life. On the W. side of St. James's Palace lies Clarence House^ the residence, since 1874, of the Duke of Edinburgh and his consort, the Grand Duchess Marie of Russia. — Marlborough House, on the E. side of the palace, see p. 220. St. James's Park (PI. R, 21, 22, 25, 26; IV), which lies to the S, of St. James's Palace, was formerly a marshy meadow, belonging to St. James's Hospital for Lepers. Henry VIII., on the conversion of the hospital into a palace , caused the marsh to be drained, surrounded with a wall, and transformed into a deer-park and riding-path. Charles II. extended the park by 36 acres, and had it laid out in pleasure-grounds by Le Xotre, the celebrated French landscape gardener. Its walks, etc., were all constructed primly and neatly in straight lines, and the strip of water received the appropriate name of 'the canal'. The present form of St. James's Park was imparted to it in 1827-29, during the reign of George IV., by Nash, the architect (see below). Its beautiful clumps of trees, its winding expanse of water enlivened by water- fowl, and the charming views it affords of the stately buildings around it, combine to make it the most attractive of the London parks. In 1857 the bottom of the lake was levelled so as to give it a uniform depth of 3-4 ft. The new suspension bridge, across the centre of it, forms the most direct communication for pedestrians between St. James's Street and Queen's Square, Westminster, Birdcage Walk on the S. side of the park, and Westminster Abbey. The broad avenue, planted with rows of handsome trees, on the N. side of the park, is called the Mall, from the game of 'paille maille' once played here (comp. p. 218). At the E. extremity, near Carlton House Terrace , is the flight of steps mentioned at p. 219, leading to the York Column (p. 219). — Birdcage Walk, on the S. 13. BUCKINGHAM PALACE. 257 side of the park, is so named from tlie aviary maintained here as early as the time of the Stuarts. At the E. end of Birdcage Walk is Storey's Gate, leading to Great George Street and Westminster. In Pe»T/ France, to the S. of Birdcage Walk, Milton once had a house. — A battalion of the Hoyal Foot Guards is quartered in Wellington Barracks, built in 1834, on the S. side of Birdcage Walk ; the interior of the small rhapel is very taste- ful' (open Tues., Thurs., & Frid.. 11-4). The Government Offices (p. 183), the India and Foreign Offices, and beyond them the Horse Guards and Admiralty, lie on the E. side of St. James's Park. In an open space called the Parade, between the park and the Admiralty, are placed a Turkish cannon captured by the English at AlexaTidria, and a large mortar, used by Marshal Soult at the siege of Cadiz in 1812, and abandoned there by the French. The carriage of the mortar is in the form of a dragon, and was made at W'oolwich. Buckingham Palace (PI. R, 21; IV), the Queen's residence, rises at the W. end of St. James's Park. The present palace occupies the site of Buckingham House, erected by John Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham, in 1703, which was purchased by George III. in 1761, and occasionally occupied by him. His successor, George IV., caused it to be remodelled by Nash in 1825, but it remained empty until its occupation in 1837 by Queen Victoria , whose town resi- dence it has since continued to be. The eastern and principal fa<;ade towards St. James's Park, 360 ft. In length , was added by Blore in 1846 ; and the large ball-room and other apartments were subsequently constructed. The palace now forms a large quadrangle. The rooms occupied by Her Majesty are on the N. side. A portico, borne by marble columns, leads out of the large court into the rooms of state. We first enter the Sculpture Gallery, which is adorned with busts and statues of members of the royal family and eminent statesmen. Beyond it, with a kind of semicircular apse towards the garden, is the Library, where deputations, to whom the Queen grants an audience, wait until they are admitted to the royal presence. The ceiling of the magnificent Marble Staircase, to the left of the vestibule, is embellished with frescoes by Townsend, representing Morning, Noon, Evening, and Night. On the first floor are the following rooms : Green Drawing Room, 50ft. long and 33ft. high, in the middle of the E. side; *Throne Room, 66 ft. in length, sumptuously fitted up with red striped satin and gilding, and having a marble frieze running round the vaulted and richly decorated ceiling, with reliefs representing the Wars of the Roses, executed by Baily from designs by Stothard ; Grand Saloon; State Ball Room, on the S. side of the palace, ilOft. long and 60 ft. broad; lastly the Picture Gallery. 180 ft. in length, con- taining a choice, though not very extensive collection of paintings. Picture Gallert. The enumeration begins to the right. Carracci, Christ in the Garden; '182. Franii Hals, Portrait of a man, dated l(i30i Baedeker, London. 7th Edit. 17 258 23. BUCKINGHAM PALACE. liSO. JJiiJardin, Three peasants by a wall; 172. O. Schalcken, Girl with a candle; *iT4. Rembrandt, Portrait of himself; 170. Teniers, Scholars at table; 171. Dujardin , Shepherd boy and cattle; 176. Teniers^ Peasants dancing (dated 1645); *168. A. Cuyp . Evening scene, with figures; 165. N. Berchem, Shepherde.ss wading through a river ("1650) ; ~1Q4:. Rembrandt, Lady with a fan fdated 1641), the counterpart of a picture in Brussels; '163. Rtibens, The Falconer; '159. Isaac van Ostade , Scene in a village street; 157. Jan Sleen, Card-players. — ~154. Rembrandt, Adoration of the Magi (dated 1657). a celebrated work. 'The impasto of th^ ligbt on this picture is remarkably bold , being of a beautiful golden tone, rich and mellow'. — Vosmaer. 'lob. Van Dyck. Madonna and Child with St. Catharine ; *152. A. van Ostade, Boors talking (1650); *149. Rubens, Landscape; 150. Rubens, St. George and the Dragon; 147. A. van Ostade. Boors smoking (1665); *148. Metsu, Lady with a champagne glas.s; 145. Van Dyck. Charles 1. on horse- back; i^i. F. Mieris, Woman selling grapes (dated ; erroneouslv attributed to G. Dou); 135. A. Cuyp, Cavalier; 140. Cuyp. Harbour; 136. Pieter de Hooghe , Woman spinning; '134. Claude Lorrain , Europa; 132. Metsu, Concert; 133. A. van de Velde , Scene on the beach (dated 1666); -129. Hobbema , Mill (dated 1665); 131. Rembrandt, Portrait of an old man. *126. Rubens. Pythagoras (the fruit by Snyders); 118. Wouwerman, Horse- fair; 110. Cuvp, Ladv and gentleman riding in a wood; 116. Rubens. Pan and Syrinx ;'*113. Paul Potter, Cattle (dated 1640); 109. Teniers, Rocky landscape ; 107. Jan Steen , Violinist and card players ; 104. W. van de Velde, Calm (1659); *103. /. Steen. Woman pulling on her stockings (1663); 106. Cuyp, Grey horse; 100. /. van Ostade, '^ YiUage street (dated 1643). We now pass into the Dinixg Room, which contains a series of por- traits of English sovereigns, several being by Gainsborough. In an ad- joining room is Sir Frederick Leighton's Procession in Florence with the Madonna of Cimabue. We then return to the — Picture Gallery, and examine the works on the opposite wall. 98. A. van der Werff, Lady in a swoon; 91. Backhuisen, Rough sea; 92. Teniers, Camp scene (dated 1647): 88. Berchem, .Shepherds at a ford; 89. Cuyp, Stag-hunt; 98. Tew/eri, Peasants dancing ; *86. A. Cuyp. Ducks on a lake; 83. Jan Steen. Interior; *84. A. van de Velde. Cattle pasturing; 82. Cuyp, Cattle and shepherds by a canal; 72. Ascribed to Rubens. The Pensionary John of Oldenbarneveld visited by his son after his condemnation; *67. A. van de Velde. Landscape with shepherds (1659); ""BS. Paul Potter. Ca- valier in front of a hut (1651) ; ~64. J. Steen. Family scene ; 62. Hobbema, Landscape; *59. /. van Ruysdael, Evening scene with windmill, a master- piece; 57. Wouwerman, Hay harvest; 54. A. van Ostade, Reading the papers (1650); 56. /. Steen. Brawl of peasants beside a canal (1672); *52. A. van de Velde, Hunting in a forest; 50. Van Dyck (?). Three cavaliers, a sketch for the finished picture in the Berlin Museum; 51. Van Dyck, Virgin and Child; 48. A. van Ostade. Peasants sitting round the fire; ''is. N. Maes. Girl in a listening attitude stealing down a winding stair- case (of a radiant golden tone). — **41. Rembrandt, 'Noli me tangere^ (morning light; dated 1638). Rembrandt's friend. Jeremias de Decker, dedicated a sonnet to the praise of this picture. **40. Terhurg . Lady writing a letter, with an attendant, the chef' d'oeuvre of this great master of scenes of refined domestic life; *34 Rubens. Assumption nf the Virgin, sketch for the picture at Brussels; 29. A. van Ostade, Family scene (1668); 28. W. van de Velde. On the beach; *30. Rembrandt . Burgomaster Pancras and his wife, painted in 1645; 26. F. Mieris. Boy bb.wing soap-bubbles (1663); 22. P. de Hooghe, Card-players (1658). one of the artist's masterpieces: 23. Cuyp. Evening scene; 18. Dou, Mother nursing her child, very minute in the details; 14. P. Potter. Farm scene (dated 1645). — ~10. Rembrandt. A ship-builder, occupied in making a drawing of a ship, is interrupted by his wife, who has just come into the room with a letter (dated 1633). 'The momentary nature of the simple action, the truth of the heads, the wonderful clearness of the full bright sunlight, and the conscientious 24. HYDE PARK. 259 execution, render the picture extremely attractive'. — Wauyeit. It wan purchased by George IV., when Prince' of Wale.-i, fur 5U00/. 7. Tenjer*. Peasants dancing; 2. A. ran Ostude. Backgammon players (1670); "Titian. A summer storm amid the Venetian .\l|)s, an effective rendering of unusual natural phenomena (painted about ir)34). Permission to visit tlie Picture Gallery may sometimes be ob- tained (during the Queen's absence only) from the Lord Chamber- lain on written application. The Gardens at the back of the Palace contain a summer-houBe decorated with eight frescoes from Milton's 'Comus', by Landseer, Stanfleld, Maclise, Eastlake, Dyce, Leslie, Uwins, and Ross. The Royal Mews (so called from the 'mews' or coops in which the royal falcons were once kept), or stables and coach-houses ( for 40 equipages), entered from Queen's Row, to the 8. of the palace, are shown on application to the Master of the Horse. The magni- ficent state carriage, designed by Sir W. Chambers in 176'2, anir-in-hand Clubs meet here during the season, as many as thirty or forty drags sometimes assembling. The flower-beds adjoining Park Lane and to the W, of Hyde Park Corner are exceedingly bril- liant, and the show of rhododendrons in June is deservedly famous. At the S. end of Park Lane is a handsome Fountain by Thorncycroft, adorned witli figures of Tragedy, Comedy, Poetry, Shakspeare, Chau- cer, and Milton, and surmounted by a statue of Fame. In Hamil- ton Gardens, a little farther to the S. , near Hyde Park Corner (p. 260), is a statue of Lord Byron (d. 1824), erected in 187'J. The district between Park Lane and Bond Street (p. 225) is known as Mayfair, and is one of the most fashionable in London. A refreshing contrast to this fashionable show is afforded by a scene of a very unsophisticated character, which takes phure in sum- mer on the Serpentine before 8 a.m. and after 8 p.m. At these times, when a flag is hoisted, a crowd of men and boys, most of them in very homely attire, are to be seen undressing and plunging into the water, where their Itisty shouts and hearty laughter testify to their enjoyment. After the lapse of about aji hour the flag is lowered, as an indication that the bathing time is over, and in quarter of an hour every trace of the lively scene has disappeared. — Pleasure-boats may be hired on the Serpentine. In winter the Serpentine, when frozen over, is much frc- 262 24. KENSINGTON PALACE. queiited by skaters. To provide against accidents, the Royal Humane -Socieft/, mentioned at p. 146, has a 'receiving-house' here , where attendants and life-saving apparatus are kept in readiness for any emergency. The bottom of the Serpentine was cleaned and level- led in 1870; the average depth in the centre is now 7 ft., and towards the edges 3 ft. At the point where the Serpentine enters Kensington Gardens it is crossed by a flve-arched bridge, constructed by Sir John Rennie in 1826. On the W. side of the park is a powder magazine. Reviews, both of regular troops and volunteers, sometimes take place in Ilyde Park. The Park is also a favourite rendezvous of organised crowds , holding 'demonstrations' in favour or disfavour of some political idea or measure. The Reform Riot of 1866, when quarter of a mile of the park-railings was torn up and 250 policemen were seriously injured, is perhaps the most historic of such gatherings ; and a very large one, to protest against the Irish Crimes Bill, was held on Easter Monday, 1887. The wide grassy expanse adjoining the Marble Arch is also the favourite haunt of Sunday lecturers of all kinds. To the W. of Hyde Park, and separated from it by a sunk- fence, lie Kensington Gardens (PI. R, 10, etc.), with their pleasant walks and expanses of turf (carriages not admitted). Many of the majestic old trees have, unfortunately, had to be cut down. Near the Serpentine are the new flower gardens ; at the N. extremity is a sitting figure of Dr. Jenner (d. 1823), by Marshall. The Broad Walk on the W. side, 50 ft. in width, leads from Bayswater to Kensington Road. The Albert Memorial (p. 270) rises on the S. side. The handsome wrought-iron gates opposite the Memorial were those of the S. Transept of the Exhibition Buildings of 1851, which stood a little to the E., on the ground between Prince's Gate and the Serpentine, and was afterwards removed and re-erected as the Crystal Palace at Sydenham (see p. 305). Kensington Palace (PL R, 6), an old royal residence, built in part by William III. , was the scene of the death of that monarch and his consort, Mary, of Queen Anne and her husband. Prince George of Denmark, and of George II. Here, too. Queen Victoria was born and brought up, and here she received the news of the death of William IV. and her own accession. The interior contains nothing noteworthy. Kensington Palace was till lately the London re- sidence of the Princess Louise and her husband the Marquis of Lome , and is now occupied by the Prince and Princess of Teck (the latter first cousin to the Queen) , and by various annuitants and widows belonging to the aristocracy. The palace has a chapel of its own, in which regular Sunday services are held. The space to the W. of Kensington Palace is now occupied by rows of fashionable residences. Thackeray died in 1863 at JVo. 2 Palace Green, the second house to the left in Kensington Palace Gardens (PI. R, 6) as we enter from Kensington High Street. Among his previous London 24. HOLLAND flOUSK. 'iCli residences were 88 St. James's Street, 13 (now Hi) Yuung Street, Ken- sington (where 'Vanity Fair% 'Pendennis', and 'Esmond" were written), and 36 Onslow Square (re-numtiered). Holly Lodge, the ]u,me of Lord Macaulay, where he died in 1859, is in a lane leading; olT Campn Hill Road, a little farther to the W. The next liousi- i.s Ar>jt/ll Lo'Jgr. the London residence of the Duke of ArgylL Farther to the W., on a hill lying between Uxbridge Hoad, on the N., and Kensington Koad on the 8., stands Holland House ( FL R, 1), built in the Tudor style 'by John Thorpe, lor Sir Walter Cope, in 1607. The building soon passed into the hands of Henry Iticb, Earl of Holland (in Lincolnshire), son-in-law of Sir Walter ("ope, and afterwards, on the execution of Lord Holland for treason, came into the possession of Fairfax and Lambert, the Parliamentary generals. In 1665, however, it was restored to Lady Holland. From 1716 to 1719 it was occupied by Addison, who had married the widow of Edward , third Earl of Holland and Warwick. The lady was a relative of Sir Hugh Myddelton (see p. 100 j. In 1762 it was sold by Lord Kensington, cousin of the last representative of the Hollands, who had inherited the estates, to Henry Fox, afterwards Baron Holland, and father of the celebrated Charles James Fox. The house is now the property of Lady Holland, widow of the fourth Lord Holland of the Fox line ; but the reversion is said to have been sold to Lord llchester, a descendant of a brother of Henry Fox. The demesnes of Holland House have recently been much curtailed by laying out sites for building. Since the time of Charles I. , Holland House has frequently been associated with eminent personages. Fairfax, Cromwell, and Ireton held their deliberations in its chambers; William Penn.who was in great favour with Charles II. , was daily assailed here by a host of petitioners; and William III. and his consort Mary lived in the house for a short period. During the first half of the 19th cent. Holland House was the rallying point of Whig political and literary notabilities of all kinds, such as Moore, Rogers, and Macaulay, who enjoyed here the hospitality of the distinguished third Baron Holland. The house contains a good collection of paintings and historical relies. Compare Princess Lichtenstein's 'Holland House". Along the X. side of Hyde Park and Kensington (hardens runs the Uxhridge Road, leading to Bayswater and dotting Hill. >'ear tlie 3Iarl>le Arch (PL K, 15) is the Cemetery of »S7. Oeorge'e . Hanover Square ("pen 10-4. on Sun. and holidavs 2-4), containinc; the lirave of Laurence Stirne (d. 1768; near the middle of the wall on the W. side). -Mrs. RadclillV, writer of the 'Mysteries of Udolpho', is said tu be Ijuried helow the chapel. The rows of houses on this road, overlooking the park, contain somt- "f the largest and most fashionable resilences in London. 264 25. Private Mansions around Hyde Park and St. James's. Grosvenor House. Stafford House. Bridgewater House. Dudley House. Lansdoicne House. Apsley House. Bath House. Dorchester House. Hertford House. Devonshire House. The English aristocracy, many of the members of which are enormously wealthy, resides in the country during the greater part of the year ; but it is usual for the principal families to have a mansion in London, which they occupy during the season, or at other times when required. Most of these mansions are in the vicinity of Hyde Park, and many of them are worth visiting, not only on account of the sumptuous manner in which they are fitted up, but also for the sake of the treasures of art which they contain. Permission to visit these private residences, for which appli- cation must be made to the owners, is often difficult to procure, and can in some cases be had only by special introduction. During winter it is customary to pack away the works of art in order to protect them against the prejudicial influence of the atmosphere. Grosvenor House (PL R, 18; /), Upper Grosvenor Street, is the property of the Duke of Westminster, and is open to the public daily from May to July by tickets obtained on written application to the Duke's secretary. The pictures are arranged in the private rooms on the ground-floor, and catalogues are provided. Room i. (Dining Room). To the left: 2. West. Death of General Wolfe at Quebec in 1759; 5. Albert Cui/p, Moonlight scene; 8. iSustermans ., Por- trait of a lady; 12. Claude Lorrain. Roman landscape; *17, *11. Rem- brandt, Portraits of Nicolas Burghem and his wife (dated 1647); 15. Rubens., Landscape; 18, 19. Claude. Landscapes; 21. Adrian van de Velde ., Hut with cattle and figures (1658); 23. Rembrandt, Portrait of a man with a hawk; 24. Woiticerman, Horse ifair; 25. Hogarth, The distressed poet; 28. Claude, Landscape; 30. Cui/p, Sheep (an early work) ; *26. Claude, Sermon on the Mount; "31. Rembrandt, Portrait of a lady with a fan; 34. Berchem, Large landscape with peasants dancing (1656); 88. Sustermans . Portrait, Room ii. (Saloon). To the left: -'40. Rembrandt, The Salutation. 'A delicate and elevated expression is here united with beautiful eflfects of light. This little gem is distinguished for its marvellous blending of warm and cold tints'. — Vosmaer. Above. Cut/p, River scene; '41. G. Dou . Mother nursing her child; *'42. Paul Potter. Landscape near Haarlem (1647); 45. N. Poussin, Children playing; '''46. Hobbema, Wooded landscape, with figures by Lingelbach; Andrea del Sarto, Portrait; '53. Murillo, John the Baptist; 09. Canaletto, Canal Grande in Venice; 66. Parmigiano , Study for the altarpiece in the National Gallery (No. 33; p. 160); 67. X. Poussin, Holy Family and angels; 69. Giulio Romano. St. Luke painting the Virgin; *72. Murillo. Infant Christ asleep ; '"70. Hobbema. Wooded landscape, with figures by Lingel- bach (a counterpart of the picture opposite) ; 75. Garofolo {'<), Holy Family. Room hi. (Small Drawing Room). To the left: 92. Van Dyck, Virgin and Child with St. Catharine ; *91. Reynolds, Portrait of Mrs. Siddons as the Tragic Muse (1784): 89. Andrea del Sarto, Holy Family; 88. Tenters, Chateau of the painter with a portrait of himself ; *77. Gainsborough, The 'Blue Boy\ a full-length portrait of Master Buthall. Room iv. (Large Drawing Room). To the left: *95. Rembrandt (or A. Brouwerl), Landscape with figures; 112. Paul de A'owjwgf, Landscape ; 110. 25. STAFFORD HOUSE. 265 Giovanni Bellini (or. more pmbably. an early imitator of Loremo Lotto). Ma- donna and saints; VQl. School 0/ 5e;/i'w«. Circumcision of Christ ; 106. 7\Yia« (?) The Woman taken in adultery; -105. Rubens, Portrait of him.seif and his first wife, Elisabeth Brandt, as Pausias and Clvcera (the (lowers by Jfin Brueghel); '101. Velazquez. Don Balthazar Carlos. Prince of Asturi'as, a sketch; 99. Poussin., Landscape with figures; 97. Turner, Conwav Castle Room v. (Rubens Room). To the left: ma. Israelites fjatherinK manna- *114. Abraham and Melchisedek; '115. The four Kvan^^elists , three of a series of nine pictures painted by Rubens in Spain in the year Ifj'JO. VI. CoRKiDOE : 116. Murillo, Landscape with Jacob and Laban ; Sketches of Egyptian scenes. vn. Ante-Roosi. To the left: lid. Fi-a Barlolommeo (f), Holy Family; 125. Domenichino, Landscape. The Vestibule contains a Terracotta Bust by Alessandro Vittoria. Stafford House, or Sutherland House (PI. R, 22; IV), in .St. James's Park, between St. James's Palace and the Green Park, the residence of the Duke of Sutherland^ is perhaps the finest private man- sion in London, and contains a good collection of paintings, which is shown to the public on certain fixed days in sprinq: and summer. Application for admission should be made to the Duke's secretary. We begin to the right, in the large gallery: 73. Zurbaran. Madonna with the Holy Child and John the Baptist (1653); 67. Annibale Carracci, Flight into Egypt; -62. Murillo, Return of the Prodigal Son; 61. Ascribed to Raphael., Christ bearing the Cross (a Florentine picture of little value); 59. Parmigiano^ Betrothal of St. Catharine; 5S. 54. Zurbaran. SS. Cyril and Martin; 57. Dujardin. David with the head of Goliath; -53. Murillo, Abraham entertaining the three angels; 51. After Diirer . Death of the Virgin; 48. Paul Delaroche. Lord Strafford, on his way to the scaffold, receiving the blessing of Archbishop Laud (1838). — 47. Ascribed to Correggio. Mules and mule-drivers. This work is described as having been painted by Correggio in his youth, and is said to have served as a tavern-sign on the Via Flaminia near Rome. In reality it is an unimportant work of a much later period. Opposite: 42. Tintoretto., Venetian senator; 36. Rubens, Coronation of Maria de' Medici, design in grisaille upon wood for the painting in the Louvre; 33. Honthorst, Christ before Caiaphas; 30. Murillo. Portrait; 27. Van Dyck, Portrait of the Earl of Arundel; 25. L. Carracci. Holy Family; 23. Parmigiano.VijTira.it: 22. C/ze/ri/Jo, Pope Gregory and Ignatius Loyola; "19. Moroni, Portrait; 18. Ascribed to Titian, 3Iars. Venus, and Cupid; 15. Zurbaran. St. Andrew; 5. A. Cano, God the Father. The pictures in the private apartments are not exhibited. Bridge water House f PI. R, 22; IV), in Cleveland Row, by the Green Park, to the S. of Piccadilly, is the mansion of the El Piombo, Entombment: 125. Balsano, Last Judgment; "263. P. van Slingdand, The kitchen (1685); 243. X. Berchem, River scene; 217. Melsu. Fish-woman; 126. A. van Oslade, Man with wine-glass (1677); 1.37. Ary de Vovt. Y.-unp man in a library; 2()9. iV. 5e;t/iem. Landscape i HI. Titian, Diana and her 266 25. BRIDGE WATER HOUSE. nymphs interrupted at the bath by the approach of Actseon, painted in 1559 ; 136. Rembrandt. Portrait-, 247. J. van Ruysdael, Bank of a river; *166. A. van Ostade, Skittle-players (1676)-, 258. W. van de Velde, Rough sea (1656); 212. N. Berchetii, Landscape; '196. Ruysdael. Bridge; ''65. Paris Bordone. Portrait of a man (high up); *281. J. Wynants. Landscape, with figures by A. van de Velde (1669). — *'19. Titian, The Venus of the shell.' 'Venus Anadyomene rising — new-born but full-grown — from the sea, and wringing her hair . . . Titian never gave more perfect rounding with so little shadow". — Crowe and Cavalcaselle. This work, painted some time after 1520. has unfortunately suffered from attempts at restoration. 135. Van der Heyde. Draw-bridge; 222. A. Brouwer , Peasants at the fireside; 171. Van Huysum, Flowers (1723-24); 177. A. van Ostade, Portrait; 242. Metsu, Lady caressing her lap-dog. — *18. Titian., Diana and Callisto, companion to No. 17. 'Titian was too much of a philosopher and naturalist to wander into haze or supernatural halo in a scene altogether of earth". — C. Mautegna; Ercole Oraiuli, The Israelites gathering manna; Karel Fabnliii.%. Portrait of Abraham' de Notte (1640); -Lorenzo di Credi, Madonna and Child. In *he private rooms (not accessible): Murillo. Six scenes from the story of the Prodigal Son. Death of St. Clara; ifM»-6araH, Annunciation. Also valuable works of Velazquez, Claude Lorrain, Grenze. and others. Lansdowne House (PI. R, 22; I), Berkeley Square, the resi- dence of the Marquis of Lansdowne, contains a valuable picture- gallery and a collection of Roman sculptures. Admission only by introduction to the Marquis of Lansdowne, the works of art being distributed throughout the private apartments. fXhe ancient sculp- tures form probably the most extensive private collection out of Rome. Most of them were discovered at Hadrian's Villa by Gavin Hamilton. It was while living here, as librarian to Lord Shelburne, that Priestley discovered oxygen. Sculptures. Statue of Jlercury, replica of the misnamed Anfinous of the Belvedere; Youthful Hercules; Juno enthroned; Bacchus; Diomede with the palladium; Jason untying his sandals; Wounded Amazon; Marcus Aurelius as Mars; Statue of an emperor; Numerous reliefs, funereal columns, etc. Woman asleep, by Canova, his last work; Child soliciting alms, by Ranch. Pictures. In the Ante-Room: Tidemand and Gude, ^Norwegian land- scape; Gonzales Coques. Portraits of an architect and his wife; Sir Thomas Lawrence. Portrait of Lord Lansdowne. — In Lord Lansdowne's Silling- Room: ''Rembrandt. The last-painted portrait of himself (abnut 1665); "Rey- nold-f. Lady Ilchester; Master of Treviso (assigned to Givrgione). Concert; Landscapes by Both and "Isaac van Ostade. — In the Library: 'Van Dyck. Henrietta Maria, wife of Charles I.; Rembrandt's School, Two portraits; Luini, St. Barbara. — In the Drawing Room: "Rembrandt. Portrait of a lady (1642); 'B. van der Heist. Portrait of a lady (1640); Guerrino, The Prodigal Son; ''Murillo. The Conception; ' Velazquez. Portrait of him- self; Velazquez, Portrait of Olivarez ; ''Cuyp . Portrait of a young girl; C. Dolci, Mad"nna and Child. — In the i^'roH^ Drawing Roo/n: "Sebastian del Piombo, Portrait of Federigo da Bozzolo ; 'Gainsborough. Furir-Ait l>{ a. ]iiii\. Apsley House fPl.R, 18; IV), Hyde Park Corner, the residence of theX>ufee of Wellington, was built in 1785 for EarlBathurst, Lord High Chancellor of England , and in 1820 purchased by (jovem- ment and presented to the Duke of Wellington, as part of the nation's reward for his distinguished services. A few years later the mansion was enlarged, and the external brick facing replaced by stone. The site is one of the best in London , and the interior is very expensively fitted up. It contains a picture-gallery, nu- merous portraits and statues, and a great many gifts from myal donors. Admission only through personal introduction to the Duke. On the Staircase: Canova's colossal Statue of Napoleon I. Picture Gallery (on the first floor). To the right: Vflatqiiez . Pea- sants at a bridge i ' Parmigiano. Betrothal of St. Catharine; -Vtlatquet, The master of the feast (an early work); Marcello Venusti. Annunciation; "Velazquez. Quevedo, poet and satirist; Velazquez, Portrait of Pope Inno- cent X. (repetition of the painting in the Doria Gallery at Rome) .'Correggto, Christ in Gethsemane (copy in the National Gallery); Walteau . Court 268 25. BATH HOUSE. festival i irowtcerwtow, Equestrian scene ; Ciaude, Palaces at sunset ; Rubens, Holy Family, Spagnoletlo, Allegorical picture; Wouwerman , Starting for the chase; '^Velazquez, Two boys; Murillo, St. Catharine; several large and well-executed copies of Raphael (Bearing of the Cross, etc.). The Sitting Room of the Duchess contains some admirable examples of the art of the l^etherlands : *P. Potter, Deer in a wood; ■'A. Ciiyp^ Cavalier with grey horse; A. van Ostade, Peasants gaming; -Jan Steen, Family scene, The smokers; Van dev Heyde. Canal in a town; N. Maes, The Milk-seller: Wouwerman. Camp scene; ''Lucas van Leyden, Supper; iV. Maes, The listener. — In the CoREiDOR:y. Victor, Horses feeding; Jan Steen. Peasants at a wedding feast. Bath House (PI. R, 22; IV), 82 Piccadilly, at the comer of Bolton Street, the mansion of Lord Ashburton, contains one of the finest picture-galleries in London , although several masterpieces were destroyed by fire a few years ago. The pictures are exhibited on written application, enclosing an introduction to Lord Ashburton. Dining Eoom. '^Rubens , Wolf-hunt , with a portrait of the artist as a huntsman (early but very important work); ''Rembrandt, Portrait of Jansenius (dated 1661); Rubens, Eape of the Sabine women, and Recon- ciliation of the Romans and Sabines ; Portraits by Velazquez and Bromino. Drawing Eoom. ^A. van de Velde, Sheep in a pasture (dated 1663); A. Cuyp, Landscape with shepherds; '-Cuyp, Flight into Egypt; 'N.Maes, Girl sewing (1655); ''Rembrandt, Sitting figure of a man; Dujardin , The mill; 'Terburg , Concert; ''Rembrandt , Portrait of Lieven van Coppenol, the celebrated writing-master: "Rembrandt , Portrait of a man (a round picture); ''Velazquez, Stag-hunt; Jan Steen, Boors playing skittles ; A. van Ostade, Family at breakfast; Metsu, "Woman reading at a window; Cuyp, Portrait of himself; Three works by A. van Ostade; Landscape by Isaac van Ostade; Rembrandt, Portrait; /. van Ruysdael, Two landscapes. Lady Ashbukton's Sitting Room. "" Correggio , SS. Peter, Margaret, Martha, and Anthony of Padua, an early work, painted in 1517 for S. Maria della Misericordia at Correggio; Van Dyck , Portrait of the Duke of Xassau; "Rembrandt, Portraits of a man and woman, companions, and each dated 1641 ; ""Luini (ascribed to Leonardo da Vinci) , Christ and .John the Baptist as children; ""Murillo, St. Thomas of Villa Nueva distributing alms. — In the Ante-Room. Mercury bv Thorvaldsen. Dorchester House [PI. R, 18; IV\ the residence of R. S. Hoi- ford, Esq., a handsome edifice in Park Lane, contains a good col- lection of pictures, shown in spring and summer to visitors pro- vided with an introduction. Among the finest works of art are — Room I. Velazquez, Portrait of the Duke Olivarez; G. Camphuisen (ascribed to Paul Potter), Goats at pasture (dated 1647); A. van Ostade, Interior (1661) : Cornells de Vos , Portrait of a lady; "Ruysdael, Land- scape with view of Haarlem; "Velazquez , Life-size portrait of Philip IV. Room II. "Lorenzo Lotto, Portrait; "Gaud. Ferrari, Blary, Joseph, and a cardinal ; Titian, Portrait ; "Andrea del Sarto, Holy Family :" "Cuyp, View of Dordrecht; TwioreWo, Portrait; Zmwj (?), Flora; Fra Aug elico, Six s&ints. Room III. "Bronzino, Leonora, consort of Cosimo I.: Tintoretto (ascribed to Bassano), Conversation piece of three figures; "Rembrandt , Portrait of Martin Looten (dated 1632); "Hobbema, Margin of a forest (1663); "Paolo Veronese, Portrait of the Queen of Cyprus ; "Titian, Holy Family with John the Baptist: Dosso (?) , Portrait of the Duke of Ferrara; Adr. van, Ostade. Street in a village: "Van Dyck, Portrait of the Marchesa Balbi. Hertford House (PI. R, 20; /), Manchester Square, the resi- dence of Sir Richard Wallace, contains, in a fine gallery built for its reception, the famous * Hertford Collection, long on view at Bethnal Green Museum (p. 128). Besides a very choice gallery of pictures, the collection includes specimens of gold and silver 25. DEVONSHIRE HOUSE. 269 workmanship, Renaissance and rococo furniture, majolica, por- celain, bronzes, and art -treasures of every description. It is rarely shown to strangers, but admission may sometimes be obtain- ed in spring or summer on Wed., 11-1, by cards obtained on ap- plication to the private secretary of the owner. Almost the whole of the Fiknitlre of the exhiliition room.i and the private apartments was brought from Versailles and other royal chateaux of France. The "'PiCTCRE Gallery is justly esteemed the finest private cllection in England. It contains 13 genuine specimens of Rembrandt; and Velat- quez and Murillo, Rubens and Van Dyck are also represented l»y master- pieces. The collection of modern French paintings is more important than that of the Luxembourg at Paris, including 25 masterpieces by Meissoiiier, 13 by Delaroche, 31 by Decamps, and 5 by Art/ Scheffer. .Xmong the Italian pictures are the 'Vierge au Lys' by Leonardo da Vinri and good works of Canaletto and Gnardi. The English school is represented by Reynolds (^Portrait of Nelly O'Brien), Lawrence, Stanfield, Landseer, Bonington. and others. Some of the other private art-collections of London , to which access can be gained only through personal introduction , must be mentioned more briefly. Devonshire House (PL R, 22; 1V\ Piccadilly, between Ber- keley Street and Stratton Street, the London residence of the Duke of Devonsfiire. contains fine portraits by Jordaens. Reynold:*. Tin- toretto, Dobson, Lely, and Kneller. In the library are the 'Kemble Plays', a valuable collection of J^nglish dramas, including the first editions of Shakspeare , formed by John Philip Kemble; atid a fine collection of gems. The Earl of Northbrook's Collection, at 4 Hamilton Place, Picca- dilly, formed out of the famed Baring Gallery, is especially notable for its numerous and admirable examples of the Quattrocentists (^Mantegna, Crivelli, Antonello da Messina, etc.), and also contains Holbein s fine portrait of his master, Hans Herbster of Strassburg (1516), and important works by Jan van Eyck, Cranach, Luini, Mazzolini, Garofalo, Seb. del Piombo, Murillo, Zurbaran, Velaz- quez, Rembrandt, Bol, Dou, Steen, Ruysdael, Cuyp, Rubens, etc. The collection of Lady Eastlake, 7 Fitzroy Square , is notable for its select examples of the Quattrocentists of N. Italy ( Bellini, Cima da Conegliano, Ghirlandajo, Caroto, etc.). J. Malcolm, Esq., of Poltalloch, 7 Great Stanhope St., possesses an extremely valuable collection of Drau-'int;^, includimr one hundred and forty-six by Italian masters (large cartoon by Michael Angelo, drawings by Raphael, Leonardo da Vinci, Michael Angelo, etc. ), fifty by French, Flemish, and German masters ( Diirer, Holbein, Kubens, Van DyckJ, and sixty-two of the Dutch s.honl i Cuyp, Ostade, Rembrandt, etc.). 270 26. Albert Memorial. Albert Hall. Horticultural Society's Gardens. Natural History Museum. To the S. of Kensington Gardens, between Queen's Gate and Prince's Gate, near the site of the Exhibition of 1851, rises the*Al- bert Memorial (PI. R, 9), a magnificent monument to Albert, the late Prince Consort ( d. 1861), erected by the English nation at a cost of 120,000L , half of which was defrayed by voluntary contri- butions. On a spacious platform, to which granite steps ascend on each side, rises a basement, adorned with reliefs in marble, repre- senting artists of every period (169 figures). On the S. side are Poets and Musicians, and on the E. side Painters, by Armstead ; on the N. side Architects, and on the W. Sculptors, by Philip. Four pro- jecting pedestals at the angles support marble groups, representing Agriculture, Manufacture, Commerce, and Engineering. In the centre of the basement sits the colossal bronze-gilt figure of Prince Albert, wearing the robes of the Garter, 15 ft. high, by Foley, under a Gothic canopy, borne by four clustered granite columns. Tlae canopy terminates at the top in a Gothic spire, rising in three stages, and surmounted by a cross. The whole monument, designed by Sir G. G. Scott (d. 1878), is 175 ft. in height, and is gorgeously embellished with a profusion of bronze and marble statues, gilding, coloured stones, and mosaics. At the corners of the steps leading up to the basement are pedestals bearing allegorical marble figures of the quarters of the globe : Europe by Macdowell, Asia by Foley, Africa by Theed^ America by Bell. The canopy bears, in blue mosaic letters on a gold ground, the inscription : 'Queen Victoria and Her People to the memory of Albert, Prince Consort, as a tribute of their gratitude for a life devoted to the public good.' On the opposite side of Kensington Road stands the *Royal Albert Hall of Arts and Sciences (PI. R, 9), a vast amphitheatre in the Italian Renaissance style, destined for concerts, scientific and art assemblies, and other similar uses. The building, which was con- structed in 1867-71 from designs by Fowke and Scott, is oval in form (measuring 270 ft. by 240 ft., and 810 ft. in circumference), and can accommodate 8000 people comfortably. The cost of its erection amounted to 200,000^., of which 100,000i. was contributed by the public, 50,000^. came from the Exhibition of 1851, and about 40,000i. was defrayed by the sale of the boxes. The ex- terior is tastefully ornamented in coloured brick and terracotta. The terracotta frieze, which runs round the whole building above the gallery, was executed by Minton ^' Co., and depicts the different nations of the globe. The Arena is 100 ft. long by 70 broad, and has space for 1000 persons. The Amphitheatre, which adjoins it, contains 10 rows of seats, and holds 1360 persons. Above it are three rows of boxes, those in the lowest row being constructed for 8 persons each , those in the centre or *26. ALBERT HALL. 271 'grand tier' for 10, and those in the upper tier for 5 persons. Still higher is the Balcony with 8 rows of seats ( 1800 persons), and lastly, above the balcony, is the Picture (lailery, adorned with scagliola columns, containing accommodation for an audience of 2000, and affording a good survey of the interior. It communicates by a number of doors with the Outer (irdtery, which encircles the whole of the Hall, and commands a fine view of the Albert Memorial. The ascent to the gallery is facilitated by two 'lifts', one on each side of the building [id.). The Organ, built by Willis, is one of the largest in the world ; it has 8000 pipes, and its bellows are worked by two steam engines. (The organ is occasionally played about 4 p.m., when notice is given in the daily papers; small fee. ) A subway, lined with white glazed tiles, has been constructed under the Exhibition Koad from the 8. Kensington railway station to the Albert Hall, with branches to the Natural History Museum and South Kensing- ton Museum. The Albert Hall stands nearly on the former site of Gore House, which has given its name to Kensington Gore, the high road fmm Knights- bridge to Kensington. Although less famous than Holland House, it poss- essed fully as much political and social influence at the beginning of the present century. It was for many years the residence of William Wilber- force, around whom gathered the leaders of the anti- slavery and dther philanthropic enterprises. It was afterwards the abode of the celebrated Lady Bles.sington, who held in it a kind of literary court, which was at- tended by the most eminent men of letters, art, and science in England. Louis Napoleon, Brougham, Lyndhurst, Thackeray. Dickens, Moore, Landor, Bulwer, Landseer, and Cnunt D'Orsay were among her frequent visitors. During the exhibition of 1851 Gore House was used as a restaurant, where M. Soyer displayed his culinary skill ; and it was soon afterwards purchased with its grounds by the Commissioners of the Exhibition, for 60,000/. On the W. side of the Albert Hall is the Royal College of Music, incorporated by royal charter in 1883 for the advancement of the science and art of music in the British Empire. The Prince of Wales is the president and Sir George Grove the director of the college, whi'h provides a thorough musical education in the style of the Continental Conservatoires. Upwards of fifty scholarships and ex- hibitions are open to the competition of students. The teaching staff consists of 11 professors and 30 teachers; and in the first year of its existence the college was attended by 150 pupils, including several from the Colonies and the United States. Adjacent is the Alexandra House, a home for female students, projected by the Princess of Wales and erected in 1886 at the cost of Sir Francis Cook. A little to the E. of the Albert Hall is Lowthr Lodge, a very satis- factory example of Norman Shaw's modern-antique style. Immediately to the S. of the Albert Hall, in South Kensington, lay the Gardens of the Royal Horticultural Society, which was founded in 1804 for the promotion of scientific gardening. The gardens have, how- ever, latelv been chosen as the site of the Imperial Institute (p. i<2), and a new"r(.ad has been constructed through them fro... Prince's Gate (Exhibition Road) to Queen's Gate. The flower-shows of the Society, f"'- merlv held here, are now held in the Drill Hall of the Lond(.n bcottish iiifle" Volunteers, James Street, Victoria, or at the Society's Experimental Gardens at Chiswick. The latter are open on week-day.-* from 'J to sunset, and in summer on Sun. also from 1 to sunset. 272 26. IMPERIAL INSTITUTE. The Imperial Institute of the United Kingdom, the Colonies, and India, the foundation-stoiie of which was laid by Queen Vic- toria in 1887, as the national memorial of Her Majesty's Jubilee, is a huge Renaissance edifice by Mr. T. E. Colcutt, with a frontage 600 ft. in length, surmounted by a large central tower (280 ft. high), with smaller towers at the corners. In addition to the main building there are to be a Conference Hall, to the N., 100 ft. long and 60 ft. wide, and Exhibition Galleries covering two acres of ground. The building will probably be completed in 1891 ; its esti- mated cost is about 170,000/. The main objects of the Institute, which is supported by funds sub- scribed by the people of the British Empire, are: — 1. The formation and exhibition of collections representing the important raw materials and manufactured products of the Empire and of other countries, so main- tained as to illustrate the development of agricultural, commercial, and industrial progress In the Empire, and the comparative advances made in other countries. — 2. The establishment or promotion of commercial mu- seums, sample-rooms, and intelligence offices in Lcndon and other parts of the Empire. — 3. The collection and dissemination of information re- lating to trades and industries and to emigration. — 4. Exhibitions of special branches of industry and commerce, and of the work of artizans and of apprentices. — 5. The prnmotion of technical and commercial education, and of the industrial arts and sciences. — 6. The furtherance of systematic colonization. — 7. The promotion df conferences and lectures in connection with the general work of the Institute, and the facilitating of commercial and friendly intercom se among the inhabitants of the different parts of the British Empire. The buildings which enclose the (former) Horticultural Society's Gardens on three sides were used, from 1871 to 1874, for the Inter- national Exhibition, which took place annually from April to Sep- tember, and consisted of specimens of the art and industry of different nations. The exhibition buildings, consisting of two-storied galleries running along the W. and E. sides of the Horticultural Gardens, are tastefully built of red brick in the Italian Renaissance style, and adorned with an elegant balustrade and other terracotta decorations. The gallery on the S. side is older. There are two entrances in Prince's Gate [Exhibition Road; see below), and an- other (comp. p. 289j from Queen's Gate on the W. side, while they may also be reached from the Albert Hall. The S. and W. Galle- ries now contain collections connected with S. Kensington Museum (see p. 288), while the E. Gallery is devoted to the India Museum (PI. R, 9; see p. 289). In Exhibition Road, to the N. of the India Museum, is the Central Institution of the City and Guilds of Lon- don Institute (i^. 74). Connected with the Institute is Finsbury Tech- nical College, Tabernacle Row, City. Adjacent is the Royal School of Art Needlework, open to visitors from 10 to 5 or 6 (Sat. 10-2). The Eastern Gallery also contains the National School of Cookery (entrance in Exhibition Road ; on vicAv 2-4) , an institution for teaching the economical preparation of articles of food suitable to smaller households , and for training teachers for branch cookery schools, of which there are now several in London and other towns. 26. NATURAL HISTORY MUSKUxM. 273 On the opposite side of Kxhibition lioad, at the curiier of ("rum- well Road, is the South Kcmington Mu.'ia). 5.33 years old, are marked some of the dates of great events with which it was contemporaneous, beginning with the battle of Poictiers in 1356. The alcoves round the hall are devoted to the Introductory or Elementary Morphological Collection (still incomplete) , 'designed to' teach the most important points in the structure of the principal types of animal and plant life, and the terms used in describing them\ The W. side of the gallery round the hall contains a very interesting collection of birds with their nests, eggs, and young, as in nature: while in the E. gallery is the 'Gould Collection of Humming Birds (special catalogue 2d.). A room on the ground-tloor, behind the great staircase, contains the British Zoological Collection. The 'Geological and Falaeontological Collection occupies the base- ment of the E. wing (to the right). The S.E. Gallkkv. 28U ft. long and 50 ft. wide, contains fossil remains of animals of the class Mammalia. In the first Pier-case to the right are placed human and animal remains, with implements of flint and Lone, chiefly from the caves of France ; among them is the skull of the great sabre-toothed tiger. Table-case 1 also contains skulls and other remains of the prehistoric cave-dwellers, as well as bone-needles, harpoons of reindeer-antler, carved bones, etc. In the Pier-case lictwcen the first two windows is a fossilised human skeleton, found in the lime- stone rock on the coast of Guadeloupe, West Indies. Table-cases 2 and J contain the remains of extinct carnivorous animals, including a line col- lection of bones of the great cave-bears. The following cases on tliis side are devoted to the Ungulata or hoofed animals, such as the rhino- ceros, hippopotamus, pnla-otherium , horse, pig, and the great family of ruminants. Among the most prominent objects are the skull .tnd lower jaw of the Rhinoceros leptorhinus from the Thames Valley, the sivatherium. a gi':iantic Indian antelope, and the heads and horns of the extinct wild ox of Great Britain. To this clas.i belong ihe skeletons of the gigantic Irish elk (Cervvs or Megaceros hibemicut) in the central pav-a. Most of the cases on the left side of the gallery are occupied I } the very complete collection of the molar teeth and other remains of tl( Proboscidea, or elephants, including the mastodon, mammoth, and twelve Baedeker, London. 7th Edit. 18 274 26. NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM, other species. In one case is a fragment of the woolly skin of the Siberian mammoth. Closely allied to this species was the Ilford mammoth, found in the valley of the Thames, the skull and tusks of which are exhibited in the middle of the gallery. On a stand close by is the skeleton of Steller's sea-cow (Rhytina), an extinct species, found in the peat deposits of Behring's Island, Kamschatka. On a separate stand near the beginning of the gallery is a perfect skeleton of the mastodon, found in Missouri, to one side of which are the skulls of a dinotherium (lower jaw a plaster reproduction), from Epplesheim in Hesse-Darmstadt, and of a mastodon from Buenos Ayres. — At the end of the gallery we enter the Pavilion, which contains the fossil Birds, Marsupialia, and Edentata. Among the first are remains of the dinornis, or moa, an extinct wingless bird of New Zealand. Table-case 13 contains specimens of the oldest fossil birds as yet discovered, in which the tail is an elongation of the back-bone. Other cases contain remains of the gigantic extinct kangaroo of Australia (six times larger than its living representative), and of some of the diminutive mammals of the earliest geological period. In the centre is the skeleton of a megatherium from Buenos Ayres, a huge extinct animal, the bony frame-work of which is almost identical with that of the existing sloth, its colossal strength is indicated by the form of its bones, with their surfaces roughened for the attachment of powerful muscles and ten- dons. Adjacent is a cast of a gigantic extinct armadillo (Glyptodon clavipes) from Buenos Ayres, beside which the skeleton of a living species is placed for comparison. In the corridor leading to the N. from the end of the gallery is placed a plaster cast of a plesiosaurus. The passage leads to — Gallebt D, which is devoted to the fossil Reptiles. In Wall-case 1 and Table-cases 1 d: 2 are remains of the pterodactyles or flying lizards, while to the left is a large collection of icthyosauria. At the end of the gallery is a cast of a gigantic Indian tortoise. The various galleries extending to the N. of the reptile gallery, each about 140 ft. long, contain the fossil Fishes and Invertebrate Animals. We now return to the entrance -hall and enter the S.W. Gallert, to the left, which contains the Ornithological Collection. The mounting of the specimens of the glass-cases in the middle of the floor is extremely skilful. The Pavilion at the end of the gallery contains the ostriches, emus, and cassowaries. The parallel gallery to the N. contains the Collection of Corals, while the galleries at right angles to this are devoted to the Fishes , Insects, Reptiles, and Shells. A staircase, descending from the westernmost of the passages connecting the Bird and Coral Galleries, leads to the basement of the W. wing, which is occupied by the Cetacean Collection, including the skeleton of a common rorqual or tin-whale ( Balaenptera musculus), 68ft. long. We now again return to the Great Hall and ascend the large flight of steps at the end of it to the first floor. On the first landing-place is a statue of Charles Darwin (d. 1882), by Boehm. To the right, above the geological department, is the -Mineralogical Collection, which contains a naost extensive array of minerals, meteorites, etc. A notice at the door gives instruction as to the best order in which to study the specimens here. To the right and left of the entrance are cases containing difl'erent varieties of marble and granite. Among the most remarkable objects in the other cases are a unique crystalline mass of Rubellite from Ava(Case33), a magnificent crystal of light red silver ore from Chili (Case 8), and the unrivalled groups of topazes and agates (Cases 25 & 14). In Case 13 is a piece of jasper, the veining in which bears a singular resemblance to a well-known portrait of GeoQrey Chaucer. Among the larger objects in the room at the E. end of the gallery is the Melbourne meteorolite, the heaviest known (3'/j tons). The gallery in the W. wing of the first floor, above the Bird Gallery, contains the Mammalian Collection. The most interesting section is that devoted to the various species of monkeys; close to the entrance are the anthropoid apes. In the middle of the gallery are the seals and walruses ; farther on, the girafl'es, elephants, and hippopotami. 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON Ml'SKl'M. -275 The ^Botanical Collection is oxhihitcl on tin; sc.ond 11.... r of the E. wing. It includes specimens of plants ol all kinds, iioIIsImmI taf.hrM of different kinds of wood, si.eciinens of fruit and seeds, etc. Ani..iit; the most interesting herbaria are those of Sir Hans Sloane, foun.l.T of tlie British Museum (see p. 233; about 17.o()), John Rav, Sowcrl.y (En^ili.sh plants), and Sir Joseph Banks (lyliO), the last including the collection ..f Ceylon plants made by Hermann and described by Linnii-us. The botani- cal drawings by F. Bauer, some of which are exhibited to the public in cases, form the finest collection of the kind in the wf.rld, remarkable both for scientific accuracy and artistic beauty. The second floor of the W. wing is devoted to the Osteological Collection, with a very extensive collection of skulls. At the toj. ..f iji.; staircase (second floor) is a sitting ligure of Sir Joseph Bnnks (.1. 1^2i)), the botanist, by Chantrey, brought from the British Museum in 1*56. Ad- jacent is the Refreshment Room. The Natural History Museum faces Cromwell Road, a street of palatial residences, about 1 M. in length, and so called because Henry, son of the Protector, resided in aliouse which once stood here. 27. South Kensington Museum. India Museum. The **South Kensington Museum (PI. K, 9), in Hroinptoii, to the S. of Hyde Park, at the corner of Exhibition Road and Cromwell Koad, 1 M. to the W. of Hyde Park Corner, is most easily reached by the Metropolitan Railway. The station (p. 37) is only a few hundred yards to the S.W. either of the prin- cipal entrance in Cromwell Road, or of the N.AV. entrance in Ex- hibition Road. The Museum is open gratis on Mondays, Tuesdays, and Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 10 p. m. ; ou Wednesdays, Thurs- days, and Fridays, 10 a.m. to 4, 5, or 6 p.m. according to the sea- son, charge 6rf. Tickets, including admission to the libraries, etc., ()d. per week. Is. Qd. per month, 3s. per quarter, 10s. per year. In the middle of the building is a restaurant (p. 282), to the right and left of which are lavatories for ladies and gentlemen. The Museum, which was opened in 1857, is one of the sub- divisions of the Science and Art Department of the Committee of Council on Education , which is under the control of the Lord President of the Council for the time being, assisted by a Vice President. The object of the Department is the promotion of art and science by means of the systematic training of competent teachers, the foundation of schools of art, public examinations and distribution of prizes, the purchase and exhibition of objects of art, and the establishment of art libraries. It is carried on ,it an annual expense of about 450,000^., defrayed by tlie national exchequer. Several other institutions in England, Scotland, an.l Ireland are administered by the Departmetit, Amoiig lis profcs.sors, directors, and examiners are numbered many of tlie chief Kngiisli savants ; and the tangible results of its teaching and influence an- seen in the progress of taste and knowledge in tlie fine arts and natural science throughout the kingdom. The Museum \va> visited 18* 276 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. in 1888 by 897,225 persons, and the total number of visitors since its opening in 1857 has been 27,352,935. The director is Sir Philip CunlififeOwen, K.C.B., K.C.M.G., CLE,' — Bethnal Green Museum (p. 128) is a branch of the South Kensington Museum, established for the benefit of the great industrial population of tlie E. End, and maintained at an annual cost of 8000f. Ground Floor. The present buildings of South °^''««<'e fj., Kensington Museum contain — 1. The Museum of Ornamental or Applied Art, a collection of 20,000 modern and mediaeval works of art, and plaster casts or electrotype reproductions of celebrated ancient and modern works, partly belonging to the Museum and partly on loan. 2. The National Gallery of British Art, or Picture Gallery, on the upper floor. 3. The Art Library, consisting of 70,000 vols, and a collection of 240,000 drawings, engravings, and photographs. 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON Ml'SEUM. 277 4. The Science and Education Liuhaky, roiitaiiiiiiL' C6,000 volumes. 5. The National Art Training School, in whidi drawiiip, painting, and modelling are taught. 6. The Normal School of Science, for tlie trainirifj; of teachers and others. The Art Collection, which both in value and extent is one of the finest in the world, is at present exhibited in three large courts roofed with glass, and in the galleries surrounding and diverging from them, including a new wing opened in 1884. A large central structure in the Renaissance style, designed by Fmvke, is now in course of construction. A building in Exhibition Hoad for tlie Science Schools, chiefly of terracotta, with fine sgraffito decorations, has recently been completed. The Museum is largely indebted for its rapid progress to the generosity of private individuals in lending the most costly treasures of art for public exhibition (Loan Collec- tion); but Government has also liberally expended considerable sums in the acquisition of valuable objects of art. All the articles in the museum are provided with a notice of their origin, the names of the artist and (if on loan) owner, and (when acquired by pur- chase) a statement of their cost. The following is necessarily but a limited list of the chief objects of interest permanently belonging to the institution; and of the numerous plaster casts only such are mentioned as are not usually met with in other collections. The ar- rangement is frequently altered. P>en a superficial glance at all the different departments of the museum occupies a whole day ; but it is far more satisfactory, as well as less fatiguing, to pay repeated visits. Guide-books, catalogues, and photographs are sold at stalls close to the entrance of the Architectural Court. In the grounds at the Principal Entrance (temporary) in Cromwell Road is a sitting statue of Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy by Marochetti. Inside the building we first find ourselves in the ArcMtectural Court, measuring 135 ft. each way. It is divided into two portions by an arcade (17 ft. broad ) running down the centre, and is devoted to full-size plaster and other reproductions, chiefly of large architec- tural works, along with a few original objects. In entering we ]>ass under a fine *Rooil Loft, of alabaster and marble, from the Cathedral of Bois-le-Duc, North Brabant (162oj. — hnmediately in front is a cast of the Monument of Sir Francis Vere in Westminster Abbey (p. 216), behind which is the original plaster model of a .statue of Cromwell by John Bell. In the middle of the room is a copy, in two parts, of Trajan's Column, the original of which was erected at Rome in A. D. 114. The reliefs represent Trajan's war with the Dacians, and include 2r)00 human figures, besitles animals, chariot-, etc. Farther on is a plaster cast of the Bronze Lion of llrunswi.k. the original of which is said to have been brought from Constantinople 278 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. ill IIBG by Henry the Lion. — To the right of the entrance is the competition sketch model for the Wellington Monument in St. Paul's, in painted plaster of Paris, hy Alfred Stevens. Adjacent are original models of various figures and groups forming part of the design. The composition is pleasing, though in a decorative rather than in a monumental style. — To the left: Copy of the Chapter House Door in Rochester Cathedral (see Baedeker s Great Britain). Cast of a portion of Rosslyn Chapel, near Edinburgh, with the column known as the 'Prentice's Pillar' (1446). Cast of the angle of the Cloisters of San Juan de los Reyes at Toledo (15th cent. J, an admirable ex- ample of Spanish Gothic. Cast of the Tabernacle in the church of St. Leonhard at Le'au, in Belgium, executed by Cornells de Vriendt in 1554, and one of the finest works of the Flemish Renaissance. — To the right, cast of the Schreyer Monument, outside the St. Se- baldus Church at Nuremberg, one of Adam Krafft's masterpieces, executed in 1492 (Crucifixion, Entombment, Resurrection). Cast of Choir-stalls, in carved oak, from the Cathedral of Ulm, by Jorg Syrlin (about 1470 ). — By the end-wall : *Cast of the Puerta della Gloria or portal of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostella, Spain, by Maestro Mateo, an imposing work in the early-Romanesque style (end of the 12th cent.). In the lunette is a colossal figure of Christ. — To the left, an original Alhacena or cupboard from Toledo (14th century). — This section of the court also contains casts of works by Jean Cousin (1501-90), Jean Goujon (1515-72), etc. In the Central Passage are five wrought-iron screens made by Huntington Shaw for Hampton Court Palace (1695; see p. 320). Eastern Section of the Court. On the entrance-wall is the cast of a Chimney-piece from the Palais de Justice at Bruges, by Lancelot Blondeel, a fine specimen of Flemish work of the 16th cen- tury. Above is a cast of Thorwaldsen's frieze representing the Triumphal Entry of Alexander the Great into Babylon. In front, to the left, is a cast of the choir-screen of the church of St. Michael, Hildesheim, a Romanesque work of the end of the 12th century. — Behind the last, Cast of the shrine of St. Sebaldus, Nuremberg, the masterpiece of Peter Vischer (1519). — On the other side are ori- ginal sculptures and casts from Mexico and Honduras. — In the middle of the room are casts of two celebrated Pulpits in Pisa, by Niccolo (1260) and Giovanni Pisano (1302-1311). — To the right, by the wall, the original Monument of Marquis Malaspina from Verona (1536). — At the N. end is a series of casts of the master- pieces of Michael Angelo, including the colossal statue of David, backed by a cast of the great doorway of S. Petronio, Bologna. — Numerous casts of other large objects formerly in different parts of the Museum have been transferred to this court. The entrance on the W. side leads to the Collection of Casts of classical sculptures (p. 280). We now descend the steps at the end of the Central Passage into the — 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSFA'M. 279 South Court, which is also divided into an eastern and a western half hy an arcade (above it the Prince Consort Gallery, p. '2.ST ). — On the upper part of the walls of these two departments, in sunken panels, are portraits in mosaic of the 80 following famous artists (beginning on the left, at the S. angle of the W. section): 1. Leonardo da Vinci, painter (d. 1519) ^ '2. Haphael Sanzio , painter (d. 1520); 3. Torregiano, sculptor (d. 1522) •, 4. Poter Vii»cher, artist in metal id. 1529); 5. Bernardino Luini. painter (d. 1530)-, G. Lancelot Klon- deel, Flemish painter, sculptor, and architect (d. 156(J); 7. Velazquez d.- Silva, painter (d. 1660j •, 8. Maestro Giorgio ot Gubljio, potter fd. 1552); 9. Hans Hidbein the Younger, painter (d. 1513); IC Michael Anjgelo Buona- rotti. painter and sculptor fd. 1564j; 11. Titian, painter (d. 1576); 12. Ber- nard Palissy, potter (d. 1590) ; 13. Inigo Jones, architect (d.l652j; 14. Grin- lingGibbons, carver in wood (d. 1721); 15. Sir Christopher Wren, architect (d. 1723); 16. William Hogarth, painter (d. 1764); 17. Sir Joshua Reynold", painter (d. 1792); 19. W.Mulreadv. painter (d. 1863); 19. John van" Evck. painter (d. 1441); 20. Phidias, sculptor (d. 432 B.C.); 21. Apelles, painter (d. 332 B.C.); 22. Niccolo Pisano. sculptor (d. 1280); 23. Giovanni Cimabue, painter (d. 1300); 24. William Torel. goldsmith (d. 1300); 1'i. Jean Goujon, sculptor fd. 1572); 26. William of Wvkeham, Bishop of Winche-^ter. archi- tect fd. 1404); 27. Giotto, painter fd. 1336); 28. Lorenzo Ghiberti, sculptor fd. 1455); 29. Fra Giovanni Angelico da Fiesole , painter fd. 1455); 30. Donatello, sculptor fd. 1466): 31. Benozzo Gozzoli, painter fd. 1478); 32. Luca della Robbia, sculptor (d. 1481); 33. A. Mantegna, painter fd. 1506). 34. Giorgione, painter (d. 1511); 35. Fra Beato Giacomo d'UIma, painter on glass fd. 1517). Ill the northern lunette of the E. section of the court is a fine *Fresco by Sir Frederick Leighton, representing the 'Arts of War' or the application of human skill to martial purposes (best seen from the gallery upstairs). The corresponding *Fresco in the S. lunette. by the same artist, illustrates the 'Arts of Peace'. The Court contains an extremely valuable **Collection of small objects of art in metal, ivory, amber, agate, jade, and porcelain, many of which are lent to the Museum by private owners. The W. half of the court is devoted to European objects, while the E. half contains works of art from China and Japan. The Western Section contains Ivory Carvings, (iold and Sihi-r Work, and Loan Collections. On the walls and in the cases at the S. end are several hundred ivory carvings, affording a complete and highly instructive survey of the development of this mediaeval art (scientific catalogue by Westivood). Among these belonging to the Museum are some works of world-wide celebrity, sut of a Roman emperor, crowned with laurel, a masterpiece of the Lombard school, of extraordinarily careful exorution. The E. Arcade contains a collection of p:uropean tapestry and textile fabrics, including the superb *Syon Cope, from the monas- tery of Syon atlsleworth, English embroidery of the 18th century. At the N. end of the court are the tribune and the high-altar of 282 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. the conventual church of S. Chiara at Florence, the latter by Leo- nardo del Tasso (about 1520). West Section. Collection of glazed terracotta works, chiefly by Luca and Andrea della Robbia of Florence ( lo-l6th cent). Those in white or uncoloured enamel are the oldest , while the coloured pieces date from the first decade of the 16th century. Among the most interesting specimens are twelve *Medallions representing the months, ascribed to Luca della Robbia ; large medallion exe- cuted by Luca della Robbia for the Loggia de' Pazzi, with the arms of King Rene of Anjou in the centre; Adoration of the Magi, with a portrait of Perugino (looking over the shoulder of the king in the green robe and turban) ; Virgin and Child, by Andrea della Robbia. — Collection of Florentine terracotta busts, chiefly by or in the style of Donatello, including one of Savonarola (burned at Flo- rence in 1498). — Extensive collection of Italian Majolica. — This court also contains examples of Italian art in carved furniture, tarsia work, etc. In fact it now represents the Italian section of the Museum. Part of the West Arcade (see also p. 280) is occupied by a valuable collection of Musical Instruments : Harpsichord which be- longed to Handel ; German finger-organ, said to have once belonged to Martin Luther ; Spinet of pear-tree wood, carved and adorned with ebony, ivory, lapis lazuli, and marble, by Annibale de' Rossi of Milan (1577); virginal of richly gilt leather, stated to have been the property of Elizabeth of the Palatinate ; harpsichord inscribed 'Hieronymus Bononiensis far-iebat, Romse MDXXI'. The North Arcade contains Italian and other glass vessels, an- tique pottery, terracotta figurines from Tanagra, etc. The Fernery, which forms a pleasant object at the windows of this arcade, was fitted up to enable the art-students to draw from plants at all seasons. To the W. of the North Court are three new Rooms, formerly occupied by the Art Library. The first two of these are devoted to Italian Woodwork and Furniture, including several fine marriage coffers ('cassoni); the third room contains specimens of Spanish Art^ some ancient Mural Decorations from Puteoli, and a reproduc- tion of the Wolf of the Capitol. From the last-mentioned room a Corridor leads to the Refresh- ment Rooms (p. 275). This passage contains a number of modern marble statues and original models. The windows contain interest- ing specimens of stained glass, partly from German churches. At the end of the corridor is a highly decorated staircase leading to the Keramic Gallery (p. 287). On this staircase is a memorial tablet with portrait of Sir Henry Cole^ K.C.B. (d. 1882), the first Director of the Museum. We turn to the left into the — West Cloisters, which, along with the North West Cloisters, to the right, contain the Museum Collection of Furniture. The walls are covered with wood-carvings, tapestry, casts, and paintings. 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSKIM. 2S3 The N.W. Cloisters also contain some old state carriages and sedan chairs. At the N.W. corner of the North West Cloisters is the door opening on Exhibition Road, on the oppusitt; side of which are the Exhibition Galleries (p. 288) and the India .Museum (_p. 289). We turn to the right into the — North Cloisters, which contain a unique collection of Persian earthenware, tiles, carpets, works in metal, etc., including the Persian Textiles presented to the Museum by the Shah of Persia. In a case at the E. end are several interesting monumental tablets, with Persian inscriptions. Here also is a •*Mimbar\ or pulpit, from a mosque at Cairo, of carved wood inlaid witli ivory and ebony, and still bearing traces of painting (1480). In the angle between the N. and N.W. Cloisters is a Room from Damascus! 1756), fitted up with its original carpets and furniture; on the walls are Arabic inscriptions. Adjacent is a similar room, together with lattice windows (Meshrebiyehs) from Cairo. We now reach a hroad flight of steps leading to the upper floor, which contains the — *National Gallery of British Art, a valuable and representative collection of English paintings. It includes the collections given or bequeathed by Messrs. Sheepshanks^ Parsons, Forster, W. Smith, and others, and the pictures lent by the Royal Academy. It also contains the famous Cartoons of Raphael, formerly in Hampton Court. Before entering any of the rooms, we notice, at the top of the stairs by which we have just ascended, some original cartoons of the frescoes in the Houses of Parliament, and an original model of a group of the Graces, by Baily. Rooms I, YIII, VII, IV (^see Plan, p. 285 ) contain the *His- torical Collection of British Water-colour Drawings, of great inter- est to the student and lover of art. Boom I. Water-culour paintings by F. Wheallei/, P. Sand'-y. ]»'. Payne, E. Dayes. and other masters of the close of last century. The screens in the middle (jf the room hear a collection of studies in oil, water-odour, and pencil, by Jo?tn Constable ([>. 174). Boom il. Collection lent by the Rotal Academt (pictures purchased with the Chantrey Fund). To the left, John Collier, The last vovage of Henry Hudson; Watts, Psyche; J. M. fitrudwick, A golden thread;" Wyllie, Toil, Glitter, Grime, and Wealth; Small, The last match; Pettie, the vigil; 'E. Poynter, A visit to iEsculapius: J. C. Hook, The stream; F. Dicktee, Harmony; Colin Hunter, Their only harvest; Seymour Lucas., After Cul- loden; W. Hunt, Dog in the manger: J. Brett, Britannia's realm; E. Par- ton, The waning of the year: Marcus Stone, 'H y a toujours un autre"; Val. Prinsep , Ayesha; J. P. Reid , Toil and pleasure; J Farquharsoti, The joyless winter day: H. Moore, Cats paw oO' the land; W. U- Orchard- son, Napoleon on board the Bellerophon; W. Hilton, Christ cruwncd wilb thorns; A. C. Gow. Cromwell at Dunbar; F. W. I'eamei. Death <»f Amy Robsart; D. Murray. My love has gone a-sailing. In the centre <>f the room: "Athlete struggling with a python, in br.rr/c. }<} Sir Fred. Leiyhton, President of the Royal Academy ; a Mounted Indian attacked hy a serpent, also in bronze, bv Thos. Brock; Teucer, by JIamo Thorneycroft ; Folly, by E. Onslow Ford; 'The Prodigal Son, in liiarhle. by iV. Caldcr Marshall. Boom III. Fokstkk C<>i.lkctii»n. <»n the wall', to the l.-ft ; Original drawings of portraits of literary men. by Maclist ; Illustrations of Jerndd's 284 '27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. 'Men of Character', by W. M. Thackeray. Then, water-colours and draw- ings by Stanfield, Turner^ C'attermole^ Stothard, Cipriani, AfacUse, and Gainsborough. ~ Frans Hals, Man with a jug; Gainsborotigh, His daugh- ters; Reynolds, Portrait. — To the right: Drawings by Maclise, Leech, Landseer, and Count d'Orsay. Then, Boxall , Walter Savage Landor ; Frith, Charles Dickens; 'Maclise, Macready as 'Werner ; Maclise, Scene from Jonson's 'Every Man in his Humour', with portrait of Forster; Waits, Thomas Carlyle; Wynfield, Death of Cromwell. The glass-cases in the middle of the room contain autographs of Charles II., Cromwell, Ad- dison, Burns, Pope, Johnson, Byron, Keats, etc. ; the MSS. of several of Dickens's novels, including the unfinished 'Edwin Drood', with the last words he wrote ; three sketch-books of Da Vinci, which the master used to carry at his belt; chair, desk, and 3Ialacca cane of Oliver Goldsmith. Small model of a curious Chinese Temple, with a grotto. — The door to the right leads to the Keramic Gallery (p. 287); that on to the left to — Koom IV. Continuation of the Collection of Water-colours, in- cluding specimens of Rossetti, Catiermole, Hunt, Haghe, Sidney Cooper, Albert Moore, etc. A set of screens here bear a series of water-colours illustrating the Coronation of George IV. (1821). The case contains a col- lection illustrating the history of engraving on wood. Koom V. Dtce Collection. Pictures. To the left: West, Saul and the Witch of Endor; Janssens, Dr. Donne; ''Halls, Edmund Kean as Richard HI.; Worlidge, Garrick as Tancred ; Unknown Artist, Kemble as Coriolanus; Loutherbourg, Garrick as Don John; Richardson the Elder, Portrait of Pope. To the right: G. Romney, Serena; Unknoim Painter, John Milton; Reynolds, Portrait. The room also contains books (fine editions of the classics), drawings, and miniatures. — The door to the right leads into the reading-room of the Dyce and Forster Library (open daily, 10 to 4, 5, or 6), containing 18,000 vols and a collection of drawings in portfolios (catalogue on the table). Room VI. Dtce Collection. Books, Engravings, and Autographs of eminent men. — We now return through Rooms V. and IV. to — Koom VII, Collection of Water-colodrs, chiefly landscapes and architectural subjects. Koom VIII. Water-colours, chiefly of the beginning of the present century, including examples of Ttirner, J. Crome (1769-1821), the founder of the English school of landscape-painters, etc. On the screens is the rest of the Constable Collection (see p. 283). We next turn to the right into the North Gallekt, or *=='Raphael Koom, containing the marvellous cartoons executed by the great painter for Pope Leo X., in 1515 and 1516, as copies for tapestry to be executed at Arras in Flanders. Two sets of tapestry were made from the draw- ings, one of which , in a very dilapidated condition , is preserved in the Vatican; the other, after passing through the hands of many royal and private personages, is now in the Old Museum at Berlin. The car- toons were originally ten in number, but three, representing the Stoning of St. Stephen, the Conversion of St. Paul, and St. Paul in prison at Philippi, have been lost (represented here by copies). The cartoons rank among Raphael's very finest works, particularly in point of conception and design. The cartoons here are as follows, beginning to the right on entering: — '^Christ's Charge to Peter. Death of Ananias. Peter and John healing the Lame Man. Paul and Barnabas at Lystra. Then, on the opposite wall: — *Elymas the Sorcerer struck with blindness. Paul preaching at Athens. The Miraculous Draught of Fishes. The room also contains copies of other works by Raphael and a very fine 'Altar-piece (lent by the Duke of Castro) which he painted for the Convent of St. Anthony at Perugia about 1505 (contemporary with the Ansidei Madonna, p 154). In the centre of the room are some Italian 'Cassoni' 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM, 285 (coflers) in carved wood. At the E. end of the hall we turn to the right, and reach the three rooms occupied by the Shkbi'shanks Collkction. Room A. To the left: Leslie, '114. Florizcl and Perdita: 171. Red- (jraie, Ophelia weaving' 'garlands; Leslie, '109. Scene from the 'Taminf; of the Shrew'; 115. Autolycus; 118. 'Le JIaladc imaginaire'; 111. -Who can this be?' 128. Griselda; 117. 'Les Femnies savantes"; 122. (^ueen Catharine and Patience; 127. Portia; 116. 'Le Bourgeois Gentilhomine'; 112. 'Who Staircase to the North Cloisters. Mil VII Raphael Room. Ill III NORTH COURT. £'-' C^uirt. Iron -work. can tliis be from?'; 125. The toilette. 35. Cvntlahlc, llamiistead lltalh; 172. Redgrave, Bolton Abbey; 58. Cojye, L'Allegro; 132. Leslie. Sancho Panza; 66. iJanbij, Calypso's Island; 210. Turner, East Cowes Castle, I.ole of Wight; 59. Cope, HPenseroso; 11. Callcoit, Dort (a sunny meadow); 226. Wilkie, The refusal ('Duncan Gray'); 213. Utcins, Italian umthcr teaching her child the tarantella; 208. Turner, Venice; 74. Frith, Hnneywood in- troducing the baililYs to Miss Richmond as his friends; 212. Utcins, Suspi- cion; 207. Turner, Line-fishing ofl" Hastings; 10. tVi/ico^r, Slender and Ann<- Page; 209. Turner, St. Michael's Mount, Crnwall; 223. Wet'Ster, Contrary winds; 166. Newton, Portia and Bassanio; Collins, 30. Bayham .\l)l»ey, 286 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. 31. Seaford, Coast of Sussex ; 71. Eastlake, Italian contadina and her children ; 113. Leslie. Uncle Toby and Widow Wadman (comp. p. 175); 108. Lee, Distant view of Windsor; 211. Turner, Vessel in distress off Yarmouth ; 187. G. Smith, Children gathering wild flowers; 28. Collins^ Hall Sands, Devonshire; 170. Redgrave. Throwing off her weeds; 81. Horsley, The contrast, Youth and Age. — The cases in the centre of the room con- tain a collection of fine enamels and miniatures. HoomB. To the left: 61. Creswick^ Scene on the Tummel, Perthshire ; Xawce, Fruit; 126. lFt7«o», Coast-scene ; 1403. Morland, Interior of a stable ; 64. Crome, Woody landscape. Gainsborough, 91. Queen Charlotte; 136. Daughters of George III. Linnell, 1407. Driving cattle ; 134. Milking time. Wilson, 105. Landscape ; 246. Evening. Mulready. 147. The sailing-match ; 152. Portrait of Mr. Sheepshanks; 141. First love; 162. Portrait of a little girl; 143. Open your mouth and shut your eyes I 144. Brother and sister; 148. The butt — shooting a cherry; 263. Mother teaching her son; 140. Giving a bite; 139. The fight interrupted; 138. Seven ages of man; 142. Interior with portrait of Mr. Sheepshanks; 145. Choosing the wedding gown. 107. Lee, Gathering seaweed; *222. Webster, Village choir; -103. C. Land- seer, Temptation of Andrew Marvell ; *33. Constable, Cathedral of Salis- bury; 15. Callcott, Sunny morning: 197. Stothard, Shakspeare's principal characters; 219. Webster, Sickness and health; 62. Creswick, A summer's afternoon; 167. Redgrave, Cinderella; 110. Leslie, Characters from the 'Merry Wives of Windsor'; 85. Jackson, Portrait of Earl Grey; 225. Wilkie, The broken jar; '189. Stanfield , Market-boat on the Scheldt; 221. Webster, Returning from the fair; 188. Stanfield, Near Cologne; 220. Webster, Going to the fair. — The frames in the centre contain several hundred drawings and sketches bv Blulreadv. Room C. To the left: '261. De Wint, Woody landscape; 242. Howard, Peasants of Subiaco ; 34. Constable, Dedham Mill ; 258. De Wint, Con;- field ; 249. Monamy, Old East India Wharf at London Bridge ; 220. Ward, Bulls fighting; 9. Callcott, Brisk gale; '88. E. Landseer, The drover's de- parture, a scene in the Grampians; 176. Roberts, Gate at Cairo; *190. Stan- field, Sands near Boulogne. E. Landseer, 96. Sancho Panza and Dapple ; 92. The 'Twa Dogs'; 101. Young roe-deer and rough hounds; -93. The old shepherd's chief mourner ('one of the most perfect poems or pictures', says Mr. Ruskin, 'which modern times have seen') ; *87. Highland break- fast; 94. A Jack in office; 102. The eagle's nest; 90. A fireside party; 91. 'There's no place like home'; 89. The dog and the shadow; 95. Tethered rams; 100. Comical dogs; 99. Suspense. Webster, A village school; Mac Galium, Sherwood Forest ; 234. Chalon, Hastings — fishing-boats making for shore in a breeze; 164. Mulready Junior, Interior; 64. Crome, Woody landscape. Room D. and the adjacent long Galleries contain the superb **Collection of French furniture , porcelain, miniatures, bronzes, paintings, and sculptures of the 18th cent., bequeathed to the Museum by Mr. John Jones (d. 1882), officially valued at250,000i. Special handbook, with numerous illustrations, i». Room D. Between the exits. Magnificent armoire with inlaid work ^iy Andre Boule ox Buhl, the court cabinet-maker of Louis XIV. In a glass-case to the right, *Golden plaque, with three exquisite enamelled figures, in low relief. The rest of this room contains numerous articles of furniture and ornaments of admirable work- manship. The Left Gallery contains the remainder of the furniture, nearly all of the best period of French art in this department. Among the most interesting pieces are an Escritoire a toilette, in light-coloured wood, which is said to have belonged to Marie An- 27. .SOUTH KENSINGTON VirSKlM. 2S7 toinettc, and was probably executed by /^ieaener; two escritoires by David; a writing-table and a small round table with Sevres plaque, both belonging to Marie Antoint^ttc (tlio two valued at up- wards of 5000^.); cabinet of black boulc (purchased by Mr. Jones for 3500^.); a marqueterie cabinet inlaid with Sevres plaques, etc. Right Gallery. Collection of Sevres, Oriental. Dresden, and Chelsea porcelain. — Collection of miniatures, including *r(irtraits of Louis XIV. by Petitot. — Sculptures, among which are busts of Marie Antoinette and the Princess de Laniballe, in the style of Houdon. — The pictures on the walls include examples of (ininn- borough, Landseer, Linnell, Mulready, and other English artists. The foreign works are mostly school-copies, but there is a genuine, signed work by Crivelli (Madonna). The lunettes in the galleries contain decorative paintings to illustrate the different branches of Art Studies. At the S. end of the Gallery is a staircase leading down to the Oriental Court (the E. section of the S. Court, p. 280). We now return to Room D., and turn (to the left) into the Gallery, which separates the N. from the S. Court, passing Leigh- ton's great fresco described at p. 279. The balcony on our right, from which we look down into the N. court, is the singing gallery, mentioned at p. 281. Opposite it is the *Prince Consort Gallery, which contains a rich selection of small mediieval works of art, ar- ranged in glass-cases. The case under the archway contains small plaques and reliquaries of enamel. The next case, standing in advance of the others, holds an- cient enamelled works, the most important of which are a *Slirine in the form of a church with a dome (Rhenish Byzantine of r2th cent., bought for 2142/,), a *Triptych of champleve' enamel (German, 13th cent.), and an *Altar-cross of Rhenish Byzantine work with enamel medallions (12th cent.) The following cases contain ex- amples of ancient and modern enamels, especially some fine Limoges Enamels of the 15th, 16th, and 17th centuries. The most valuable objects are the oval *Portrait of the Cardinal de Lorraine (bought for 2000/.) and the large *Casket, enamelled on plates of silver, with a band of dancing figures, ascribed to Je3<>J A . D., found in a Buddhist's cell (No. 2910); also a Siamese figure of Buddha (19th cent.), of gilt metal decorated with glass spangles. — On the walls are native paintings on talc. — Many of the most interesting objects in this room are often removed for loan to provincial museums. Second Section. .Jewellery and articles in jade, crystal, gold, and silver. — On the walla: Ornaments. In the cases to the right: "VS'orks in silver and other metals. Cases in the centre: Bracelets and necklaces; '"Ankus'. or elephant goad, of gold, richly ornamented with a spiral band of diamonds, and set with rubies (from Teyporej; necklace of tiger-claws; carvings in jade. — To the right: Golden throne of the Maharajah Run- jeet Singh . with three velvet cushions. Adjacent, 3Iodel illustrating the way in which Hindoo females wear jewelry. — To the right : Case with Silver filigree work. Then, *Golden relics from Ean^oon, discovered in levelling a Buddhist temple, consisting of three 'Charifas" or relic- shrines, a tassel, a leaf-scroll, a bowl with cover, a small cup, a helmet, and a jewelled belt (dated the year 846, i.e. 14S4-S5 A.D.). Buddhist Eeli- 27. INDIA MUSEUM. 291 quary in gold (said to date from B. C. 50>, with iiiter«3tin<' G»arii3 re- sembling later Christian works. — To the left: Indian erysUl vessels; right, niell .3; left, Kuftgari and enamel work. — Bv the walls: Oraameati of various kinds. Third Section. By the walls: Arms and Armour. arran?i=i j.r.'r.rdinz to provinces; the swords in the cases to the left are parti esting. — On the right: 'Howdah, with embroidered covens *Palanquin, of ivory, with representations of battles and namentation. — Tu the left: Weapons fn.m Afghanistan.— In iL-: .rntr-; Bronze gun from Burmah, in the form of a draiiua. — <>n the wall to the right is the banner of Ayoub Khan, captured at the battle of c'an- dahar in 1880. Fourth Section. Pottery and Tiles, arranged by provineea. The most important are the manufactures of the N.W. Provinces (left), Sinde t rights, and Madras (left). — By the walls : Glazed tiles, chiefly from Sinde. Fifth Section. Wood and Ivriry Carvings. Mosaics. Lacquer Works, Musical Instruments , Carvings in Marble and Stone. — 4th Case to the left : Models of tombs and vessels in soapstone. — 5th Case on the right ; Wind Instruments. — 4th, 6th, and Tth Casei to the right: String Iq- struments. — In the centre: Tiger devouring an English officer, a cir- baric mechanical toy that belonged t) Tippoo Sahib. — To the left I- and other musical instruments. — In the centre: Bedstead fron. baw's Palace. Mandalay; swinging bedstead of painted wood, from -. . — Wooden articles, lacquered, the ornamentation of which is m.jrc striking than the forms. — Wood and Ivory Mosaics, of great delicacy of execution. — Furniture made of ivury and various kinds of wood. C»n the walls is a fine collection of 274 water-colour drawings of Indian scenery, costumes, customs, etc., by Wm. Carpenier. The lofty building to the E. of South Kensington Museum is the Roman Catholic Church of the Oratory, Brompton (see p. 5'2 i, the linest modern example in London of the style of the Italian Renaissance. The fa(;ade is still unfinished. The interior is remark- able for its lofty marble columns and the domed ceiling of concrete vaulting. In the Lady Chapel are a superb altar and reredos, inlaid with precious stones, brought from Brescia and valued at l-jO'X*/. The various chapels are embellished with mosaics and carvings, and it is intended to cover all the walls with mosaics. The choir-stalls are beautifully carved in Italian walnut, the fl'wr is of rich mar- quetry, and the altar-rail is formed of giallo antico marble. The two seven-branched candlesticks of gilt bronze are accurate co- pies of the Jewish one on the Arch of Titus. 28. Belgravia. Chelsea. Kensal Green Cemetery. Millhank Prison. Chelsea Hospital. Eoyal Military Asylum. The southern portion of the West End. commonly known as Belgravia, and bounded by Hyde Park, the Green Park, Sloane Street, and Pimlico, consists of a number of handsome streets and squares (Belgrave Square, Eaton Sqwvre. Groivenor Place, etc.), all of which have sprung up within the last few decades. It derives its general name from Belgrave Square, the centre of ^^ est End pride and fashion. Like Tybumia. to the N., and Miyfair to the E. of Hyde Pr\rk. it is one of the most fashionable quarters 19* 292 28. CHELSEA. of the town. At Pimlico on the S.E. stands Victoria Station, the extensive West End terminus of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, and of the London and Brighton Railway (p. 34), whence Victoria Street, opened up not many years ago through a wilderness of purlieus, leads N.E. to Westminster; Vauxhall Bridge Road S.E. to Vauxhall Bridge ; Buckingham Palace Road and Commercial Road S.W. to Chelsea Bridge and Battersea Park (p. 299). On the Thames, near Vauxhall Bridge, to the E. of Pimlico, and between Chelsea and Westminster, rises Millbank Penitentiary (PI. G, 25), a huge mass of buildings, built and arranged from designs by Jeremy Bentham (d. 1832). It is about to be discon- tinued as a prison. Vauxhall Bridge, constructed by Walker in 1816, is 800 ft. long, and consists of nine iron arches. The river is crossed farther up by the Victoria Railway Bridge, used for the various lines of railway converging at Victoria Station, and by the elegant Chelsea Suspension Bridge, built in 1858, both of which are at the E. end of Battersea Park (p. 299). — A little to the S. of Vauxhall Bridge is Kennington Oval , a cricket-ground second only to Lord's in public favour and in interest. Chelsea, now a suburb of London, was for many ages before it was swallowed up, a country village, like Kensington, with many distinguished residents. It appears in Domesday Book as Chelched, i.e. 'chalk hythe', or wharf. The extensive building on theN. bank of the Thames, a little to the W. of Chelsea Bridge, is Chelsea Hospital (PI. G, 18, 14), an institution for old and invalid soldiers, begun in the reign of Charles II. by Wren, on the site of a theo- logical college (the name 'college' being sometimes still applied to the building), but not completed till the time of William and Mary. The hospital, consisting of a central structure flanked by two wings, and facing the river, has accommodation for 540 pensioners. In addition to these about 70,000 out-pensioners annually obtain relief, varying from V/^d. to 3s. l^/od. a day, out of the invested funds of the establishment, which is also partly supported by a grant from Parliament. The annual expenses are about 28,000Z. The centre of the quadrangle in front of the hospital is occu- pied by a bronze statue of Charles II., by Grinling Gibbons. The hospital (small fee to pensioner who acts as cicerone) contains a chapel with numerous flags, 13 French eagles, and an altarpiece by Sebastian Ricci, representing the Ascension of Christ. In the dining-hall is an equestrian portrait of Charles II., by Verrio, Visi- tors may attend the services in the chapel on Sun., at 11 a. m. and 8.30 p.m. The gardens are open to the public. To the N. of the hospital lies the Royal Military Asylum (PL G, 18, 17), founded in 1801 by the Duke of York, and con- sequently often called the Duke of York's School, an institution in which about 500 orphans of soldiers are annually maintained and '28. ROYAL MII.lTAiiV ASYLIM. 'iDIJ educated. The building has a Doric portico. Friday, Irotn H» to 4, is the hest day to visit the school. — In Chelsea Bridge Road, near the hospital, are the largest aud finest of all the li.irrark.i for the Foot Guards, with accommodation for lUOO men. To the S.E., on part of the ornamental ^n.und.s of CheLsca Ho.sniUI there stood in the reijins of George II. and (Jcorge III. a place of nmu.se- ment named the Kanelagh ^ which wa.s famous beyond any other place in London as the centre of the wildest and showiest paiet'y. Hanriuets masquerades, fetes, etc., were celebrated here in the most e.vtravafiant stvlc.' Kings and ambassadors, statesmen and literati, court beatitics.'^ ladies of fashion, and the demi-monde met and mingled at the Rancla'.-h as they now meet nowhere in the metropolis. Its principal building, the' Rotunda', 185 ft. in diameter, not unlike in external appearance" to the pres«nt Albert Hall, was erected in 174'), by William Jones. Horace Walpole describes it as -a vast amphitheatre, finely gilt, painted, and illuminated into which everybody that loves eating, drinking, staring, or crowding i.s admitted for twelve pence'. This haunt of pleasure-seekera was closed in 1805, and every trace of it has long been obliterated. To the S.W. of the hospital lies the Chelsea Botanic Harden, presented by Sir Hans Sloane to the Society of Apothecaries, on condition that 50 new varieties of plants grown in it should be an- nually furnished to the Royal Society, until the number so pre- sented amounted to 2000. It is famed for its fine cedars. Tickets of admission (gratis) may be obtained in Apothecaries' Uall, Water Lane, Blackfriars ( p. 115). *Cliei3ea Old Churcli (St. Luke's), which stands by the river, at the comer of Cheyne Walk and Church Street (PI. G, 1), is one of the most interesting churches in London. It was originally built in the reign of Edward II. (1307-27), but in its present form it dates mainly from about 1660, though some older work remains in the chancel and its side-chapels. Among the numerous monuments it contains are those of Lord Bray and his son (1539); several of the Lawrence family, mentioned by H.Kingsley in "The Hillyars and the Burtons"; the sumptuous monument of Lord and Lady Dacre (1594-5); the Duchess of Northumberland (d. 1555; mother-in-law of Lady Jane Grey and grandmother of Sir Philip Sidney); Lady Jane Cheyne (d. 1669), a large monument by Bernini, the only work now remaining that he did for England; and Sir Hans Sloane (d. 1753; see below). Sir Thomas More built the chapel on the S. side of the chancel, and erected a monument to himself, which is now in the chancel. In all probability his remains are in this church, except his head, which is at Canterbury (see Baedeker^ s (treat Britain). In the churchyard are buried, though their monuments have disappeared, Shadwell, poet laureate (d. 1692), lienry Samp- son Woodfall, printer of the celebrated Letters of Junius (d. 1805), and John Cavalier, the Huguenot leader (d. 1740). In the church are the 'Vinegar Bible", Foxe's Book of Martyrs (2 vols.), and two other books, chained to a desk. The keys of the church may be had from the Rev. K. H. Davies, 178 Oakley Street. The past associations of Chelsea are full of interest. Sir Thomas More resided in Chelsea, near the river and liattcrica Bridge, in Heaufort 294 28. KENSAL GREEN CEMETERY. House, which has now disappeared, and where he was often visited by Eras- mus, Sir Hans Sloane, lord of the manor of Chelsea, lived at the manor house there, and made the collection which formed the beginning of the British Museum (see p. 233). His name is commemorated in Sloane Street, Sloane Square, etc. Bishop Atterbury, Dean Swift, and Dr. Arbuthnot all resided in Church Street. Sir Richard Steele resided not far off. Mrs. Somerville lived at Chelsea Hospital, where her husband was physician. Leigh Hunt lived in Cheyne Row, and the same unpretending street for many years contained the residence of Thomas Carlyle (No. 24, formerly 2s o. 6; indi- cated by a memorial tablet), who died here in 1881. George Eliot (Mrs. Cross ; d. 1880) lived and died in Cheyne Walk. Turner, the great land- scape-painter, died in obscure lodgings at Chelsea in 1851. A little ito the W. was Little Chelsea, now West Brompton, where the famous Earl of Shaftesbury of the 'Characteristics'' resided in Shaftes- bury House. This mansion, in which Locke wrote part of his 'Essay on the Human Understanding", and Addison parts of the 'Spectator', has been converted into a workhouse. Skirting the Thames, a little to the W. of Chelsea Hospital, is the Chelsea Embankment (p. 114), on which, opposite Cheyne Row, is a Statue of Thomas Carlyle (d. 1881"), by Boehm. The embankment passes the elegant Albert Suspension Bridge, and Battersea Bridge (new bridge in progress), and leads to the site of Cremorne Gardens, so named from their original owner , Lord Cremorne, and formerly a very popular place of recreation, but closed in 1877 and now almost covered with buildings. Kensal Green Cemetery. The majority of the cemeteries of London are uninteresting, owing to the former English custom of burying eminent men within the walls of churches. This cemetery, however,, on the N.W, side of London, forms an exception, and will repay a visit. It is most easily reached by omnibus from Edgware Road. We may also travel by the Metropolitan Railway to Netting Hill or Westbourne Park Station (p. 334), each of which is about 3/^ M. to the S. of the cemetery; or by the North London Railway via Hampstead Heath to Kensal Green Station, 1/2 M. to the north. Kensal Green Cemetery, laid out in 1832, covers an area of about 60 acres, and contains about seventy thousand graves. It is divided into a consecrated portion for members of the Church of England, and an un- consecrated portion for dissenters. Most of the tombstones are plain upright slabs, but in the upper part of the cemetery, particularly on the principal path leading to the chapel, there are several monuments hand- somely executed in granite and marble, some of which possess con- siderable artistic value. Among the eminent people interred here are — Brunei, the engineer: Sidney Smith, the author; Mulready, the painter; Kemble, the actor; Sir Charles Eastlake, the painter and historian of art; Buckle, the historian; Leigh Hunt, the essayist; Sir John Ross, the arctic navigator; Thackeray, the novelist ; John Leech, the well-known illustrator of 'Punch'; Gibson, the sculptor; Mme. Tietjens, the great singer ; Charles Mathews, the actor; John Owen, the social reformer. Adjoining the grave of the la^t is the Reformers'' Memorial. — Cardinal Wiseman is interred in the Roman Catholic Cemetery, adjacent to Kensal Green. Highgate Cemetery (p. 328) to the N., and Norwood Cemetery to the S. of London, are worth visiting for the sake of the excellent *Views they afford. Abney Park Cemetery^ near Stoke Newington, is much used as a burying-ground by Nonconformists. III. THE SURREY SIDE. 29. St. Saviour's Church. Barclay and Perkins' Brewery. Guy's Hospital. South}rark I'urk. The 'Surrey Side' of the metropolis, witli a population of about 750,000 souls, has in some respects a character of its own. It is a scene of great business life and bustle from Lambeth to Hermondsey, but its sights, institutions, and public buildings are few. That part of it immediately opposite the City, from London Bridge to Char- ing Cross, is known as 'the Borough', a name which it rightly enjoys over the heads of such newly created boroughs as Grcenwicli or the Tower Hamlets, seeing it has returned two members to Parlia- ment for more than 500 years. We note a few of its objects of interest. Mention must be made, in the first place, of St Saviour's Church [y\. K, 38; ///), one of the oldest churches in London, situated opposite the London Bridge Station , in "Wellington Street, which runs S. from London Bridge. The church, which was built in the 13th cent, by Gilford, Bishop of Winchester, belonged originally to the old Augustinian Priory of St. Mary Overy, but was converted into a parish church by Henry VIIL in 1540. Of this original build- ing, which was cruciform in shape, and constructed in the Early English style, nothing now remains but the interesting choir, transept, and Lady Chapel. The nave was taken down in 1840, and replaced by an incongruous new structure. Above the cross is a low quadrangular tower, flanked by corner-towers. The trials of reputed heretics under Queen Mary in 1555 took place in the beautiful Lady Chapel., which is flanked with aisles, and lies north and south. The chapel and choir were restored in 1820 and 1832, with only partial success. The altar-S(5reen in the choir was erected by Fox, Bishop of Winchester, in the early years of the 16th century. The most interesting monument in the church is that of the the poet John dower ( 1325-1402), the friend of Chaucer. It con- sists of a sarcophagus with a recumbent marble figure of the p<'ct, whose head rests upon his three principal works, the Speculum meditantis, Vox clamantis, and (onfessin ntnantis, while his fei-t are supported by a lion. In the Lady Chapel is the monument of Lancelot Andrews, Bishop of Winchester (d. 1025). Massinycr and Fletcher, the dramatists, Edmund Shakspeare, a player, brother of the poet, and Lawrence Fletcher, who was a lessee, along with 296 29. BAKCLAl'S BREWERY. Shakspeare and Burbage, of the Globe and Blackfriars Theatres, are also buried here. — On the river, near St. Saviour's, onee stood Winchester House, the residence of the bishops of Winchester, and the Globe Theatre just mentioned. — The central station of the Metropolitan Fire Brigade is in Southwark Bridge Road. In Park Street, near St. Saviour's, is situated Messrs. Barclay, Perkins, and Co.'s Brewery (PI. R, 38; ///), partly on the former site of the Globe Theatre. This is one of the most extensive estab- lishments of the kind in London , and is well worthy of a visit, on account both of its great size and its admirable arrangements. The brewery covers an area of about 12 acres, forming a miniature town of houses, sheds, lofts, stables, streets, and courts. At the entrance stand the Offices, where visitors, who readily obtain an order to inspect the establishment on application by letter, enter their names in a book. The guide who is assigned to the visitor on entering, and who shows all the most interesting parts of the establishment, expects a fee of one shilling. In most of the rooms there is a very oppressive and heady odour, particularly in the cooling-room, where the carbonic acid gas lies about a foot deep over the fresh brew. Visitors are recommended to exercise caution in accepting the guide's invitation to breathe this gas. In spite of the vast dimensions of the boilers, vats, fermenting 'squares', and other apparatus, none but the initiated will have any idea of the enormous quantity of liquor brewed here in the course of a year. About 200,000 quarters of malt are annually consumed, and the yearly duty paid to government by the firm amounts to the immense sum of 180,000f. The head brewer receives a salary of lOOOf. per annum. The originator of the brewery was Dr. John- son's friend Thrale, after whose death it was sold to Messrs. Barclay and Perkins. Dr. Johnson's words on the occasion of the sale, which he attended as an executor , though often quoted , are worthy of repetition : 'We are not here to sell a parcel of boilers and vats, but the potentiality of growing rich beyond the dreams of avarice.' Two vats are shown, each of which can contain 3300 barrels of liquor. The water used in brewing Is supplied by Artesian wells, sunk on the premises. The stables contain about 150 horses, many of which are bred in Yorkshire. They are used for carting the beer in London. The brewing trade in London has become a great power within the last twenty or thirty years, and is felt to have a serious bearing upon the results of parliamentary and municipal elections. It is no longer a merely manufacturing trade, but promotes the consumption of its own goods by the purchase or lease of drinking-houses, where its agents are installed to conduct the sale. These agents are nominal tenants and are possessed of votes, and their number and influence are so great, that the power of returning the candidate who favours the 'trade' is often in their hands. All the great brewers are now" understood to be extensive proprie- tors of public houses. To the S. of London Bridge Station is Guy's Hospital (PI. G, 42), 30. LAMBETH PALACE. 297 founded ill 1721 by Guy, the bookseller, who had amassed an im- mense fortune by speculation in South Sea stock. The institution contains 710 beds, and relieves 5000 in-patients and above N »,()()( I out-patients annually. The yearly income of the hospital is 4(1, OOO^ The court contains a brazen, and tte chapel a marble statue of the founder (d. 1724), the latter by Bacon. .Sir Astley Cooper, the celebrated surgeon, to whom a monument has been erected in St. Paul's (see p. 86), is buried here. South wark Park (_P1. 11,49, G, 49, 53), in liotherhithe (p. (17), farther to the S., recently laid out by the Metropolitan Board of "Works at a cost of more than 100,000i., covers an area of 62 acres, and is in the immediate neighbourhood of the extensive Surrey Docks (p. 128). Among other interesting associations connected with this locality the following may be noticed. The name of Far/c Street reminds us of the extensive Park of the Bishops of Winchester, which occupied the river side from Winchester House to Holland House. In the fields to the 8. of this park were the circuses for bull and bear baiting, so popular in the time of the Stuarts. Edward Allcyne was for many years the 'Keeper of the King's wild beasts' here, and amassed thereby the fortune which enabled him to found Dulwich College (see p. 312). — Richard Baxter often preached in a church in Park Street, and in Zoar Street there was a chapel in which John Banyan is said to have ministered. — Afini Street recalls the mint existing here under Henry VIII. — In High Street there stood down to 1875 the old Talbot or Tabard Inn., the starting-point of Chaucer's 'Canterbury Pilgrims'. — The White Hart, 63 Boroujih High Street (see p. 15), mentioned by Shakspeare in 'Henry VF. (Part II., iv. 8) and by Dickens in the 'Pickwick Papers' (as the meeting-place of Mr. Pickwick and Sam Weller), and the George (rebuilt after a fire in 1676), arc interesting specimens of old-time inns, with galleries round their inner courts. — The Marshalsea Gaol., the name of which is familiar from "Little Dorrit', stood near St. George's Church, Southwark. 30. Lambeth Palace. Bethlehem Hospital. Battersea Park. St. Thomas's Hospital. St. George's Cathedral. On the right bank of the Thames, from Westminster Bridge to Vauxhall Bridge, stretches the new Albert Embankment (p. 114). On it, opposite the Houses of Parliament, stands St. Thomas's Hospital (PL R, 29; IV\ a spacious edifice built by ('urraj in 1868-71, at a cost of 500,000^. It consists of seven four-storied buildings in red brick, united by arcades, and is in all 590yd8. long. The number of in-patients annually treated at the hospital is 6000, of out-patients over 60,000. Its annual revenue is39,000f. Profes- sional visitors will be much interested in the admirable internal arrangements (admission on Tuesdays at 10 a.m.). The hospital was formerly in a building in High Street, Southwark, which was sold to the South Eastern Railway Company in 1862 for 296,000^ Lambeth Palace (PI. R, 29; IV), above the hospital, at the E. end of Lambeth Bridge (built in 1862), has been for over 600 years the London residence of the Archbishops of Canterbury. It 298 30. BETHLEHEM HOSPITAL. can only be visited by the special permission of the archbishop (apply to the chaplain). The Chapel^ 72ft. long and 26ft. broad, built in 1245 by Archbishop Boniface in the Early English style, is the oldest part of the building. The screen and -windows were placed here by Archbishop Laud. The ^Lollards Tower'' (properly the \yater Tower), adjoining the W. end of the chapel, so called because the Lollards , or followers of Wycliffe , were supposed to have been imprisoned and tortured here, is an old, massive, square keep, erected by Archbishop Chicheley in 1434. A small room in the upper part of the tower, 13'/2 ft. long, 12 ft. wide, and 8 ft. high, called the 'prison' and forming part of a staircase-turret more than 200 years older than the time of Chicheley, still contains several inscriptions by prisoners, and eight large rings fastened in the wall, to which the heretics were chained. The Earl of Essex, Queen Elizabeth's favourite (1601), Lovelace, the poet (1648), and Sir Thomas Armstrong (1659) , were also confined here. The name of Lollards' Tower, applied to what is really a group of three buildings distinct in character and architecture, dates only from the beginning of the 18th century. The real Lollards' Tower was the S.W. tower of old St. Paul's Cathedral , as mentioned in Stow's Survey of London (1598). — The Hall, 92 ft. long and 40 ft. broad , was built by Archbishop Juxon in 1663 , and has a roof in the style of that of Westminster Hall, with Italian instead of Gothic details. — The Library, establishedby Archbishop Bancroft in 1610, consists of 30,000 vols, and 2000 M8S., some of which, including the Registers of the official acts of the archbishops from 1274 to 1744 in 41 vols., are very valuable. It is at present kept in the haU. and is accessible daily, except Saturdays , between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. (in summer, 5p.m; closed from Sept. 1st to Oct. 15th). — The Guard Chamber, 6(3 ft. long, and 25 ft. broad, contains portraits of the archbishops since 1533, including Archbishop Laud, by Van, Dyck ; Herring, by Hogarth j Seeker, by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; Sutton, by Sir William Beechey ; Howley, by Shee ; and a portrait of Archbishop Warham, after Holbein (1504), a copy of the original in the Louvre. The dining-room contains portraits of Luther and his wife. The massive brick gateway, flanked by two towers, was erected by Cardinal Morton in the end of the 15th cen- tury. — See 'Lambeth Palace and its Associations', by Rev. J. Cave- Browne {2nied., 1883), and 'Art Treasures of the Lambeth Library', by the librarian, S. W. Kershaw (1873). Bethlehem Hospital (PI. R, 33 ; popularly corrupted into Bed- lani) , a lunatic asylum , is situated at the point where Lambeth Road, leading E. from Lambeth Palace, joins St. George's Road. The hospital was founded in Bishopsgate Street by Sheriflf Simon Fitz-Mary in 1246, but was presented by Henry VIII. to the city of Lon- don in ibiT, and converted into a madhouse. The building in Bishops- gate Street was taken down in 1675, and a new hospital built in Moor- fields, to replace which the present building in St. Georges Fields, Lam- 30. BATTERSEA PARK. 299 bcth, was begun in 1812. The cost of construction of the hospital, which has a frontage 900 ft. long, was 122,000i. ; the architect was Lewis, hut the dome was added by Smirke. The establishment can accommodate 4()U patients, and is fitted up with every modern convenience, including hot air and water pipes, and various appliances for the amusement of Ihe hapless inmates, including billiards. Professional men, who are admit led by cards obtained from one of the governing physicians, will find a vi.«it to the hospital exceedingly interesting. — There are also extensive lunatic asylums at Hamcell (p. 334), 71/2 M. to the W. of London, on the Great Western Railway, and Colney Hatch, 6V2 M. to the N. of London, on the Great Northern Railway. Near the hospital , at the corner of St. George's Road and Westminster Bridge Koad, stands the principal Roman Catholic church in London, St. George's Cathedral (PI. R, 33), begun by Pugin in the Gothic style in 1840, and completed, with the ex- ception of the tower, in 1848. In Newington Butts, a little to the E., near the well-known inn, the Elephant and Castle (p. 78j, is the Tabernacle of the popular preacher Mr. Spurgeon , built in the classic style, and accom- modating 6000 persons (comp. p. 51j. — An elegant Nonconformist chapel, called Christchurch . has been erected in Westminster Bridge Road, partly with American contributions, for the congre- gation of the late celebrated Rowland Hill, of Surrey Chapel. The beautiful tower and spire are a memorial of President Lincoln. Doulton's Pottery Works, on the Albert Embankment , above Lambeth Palace, have obtained a high artistic reputation and are well worth a visit. Battersea Park (PI. G, 14, 15, 18, 19), at the S.W. end of London, on the right bank of the Thames, opposite Chelsea Hospital, was laid out in 1852-58 at a cost of 312,890^., and is 185 acres in extent. It is most conveniently reached by taking a steam- boat to Battersea Park Pier. At the lower end of the park is the elegant Chelsea Bridge, leading to Pimlico, and V2^I- distant from the Sloane Square and Victoria stations of the Metropolitan Rail- way. From the upper end of the park the Albert Suspension Bridge crosses to the Chelsea Embankment. Near the S.E. angle of the park are Battersea Park Station of the West London Extension and the Battersea Park Road Station of the Metropolitan Extension (see p. 34). The principal attraction of the extensive pleasure- grounds, which are provided w ith an artificial sheet of water, groups of trees, etc., is the Sub-tropical Garden, 4 acres in extent, contain- ing most beautiful and carefully cultivated flower-beds and tropical plants, which are in perfection in August and September. Near the N. entrance is a convenient refreshment-room, and in the vicinity there is a good restaurant. On the S. side of the park is the Albert Palace (p. 43). Dives' Flour Mills, Battersea, to the E. of the parish-church of St. Mary, occupy the site of the manor-house of Henry St. Jolin, Viscount Bolingbroke (1678-1751). The W. wing still remains, containing the cedar-wainscotted room, overlooking tlic Thames, 300 30. BATTERSEAPARK. in wMch Pope wrote the 'Essay on Man'. Bolingbroke and his wife are buried in the church. Their monument, in the N. gallery, is adorned with their medallions by Roubiliac and bears epitaphs written by Bolingbroke himself. The E. window contains ancient stained glass, relating to the St. John family. •Jf l"\«. »=T-^ -YP^ lUiifisjiD ^::\:j 2^ °" "«x^ S^A^' ^^ ^z. EXCURSIONS FROM LONDOxN. 31. Greenwich Hospital and Park. Greenwicli, situated on the Thames, 6 M. below London Bridge, may be readied either by the South Eastern Railway from Charinif Cross Station, in 24 min. (trains every 20 min. ; fares Is., 9c/., iSd. ; stations, Waterloo Junction , Cannon Street , London Bridge, Spa Road, Deptford, Greenwich) ; by the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway from Victoria, Holhorn Viaduct, or Ludgate Hill in 30-8."t min. ; by Tramway from Klackfriars Bridge or Westminster Bridge; or by Steamboat, in ^4-l*/4 hr. according to the state of the tide (every ^.o^^- ; fares 6rf. and 4d. ; piers, Westminftter, Charing Cron.i, Waterloo, Temple, Blackfriars, St. Paul's, London Bridge, Cherry Gardens, Thames Tunnel, Globe Stairs, Limehouse, West India Dock, Commercial Dock, Millwall, Greenwich). The last route is prefer- able in fine weather. — The traveller may combine a visit to Black- xcall (East India Docks, see p. 128) with the excursion to Green- wich ; trains of the Blackwall Railway run in 20 rain, (fares Gd., 4d.j to Blackwall, whence a steamboat plies every i/2 hour to Greenwich, in 20 minutes. Greenwich. Hotels: Thos. Quartermainks Ship Tavern ; Trafalgar Hotel (both very expensive; fish-dinner from about Is.y, Crown and Sceptre. Connected with the Ship Tavern is a restaurant, called the *Ship Stores, which is cheaper; dinner 3 -4s. At the close of the parliamentary session the Cabinet Ministers and some other members of the Government usually meet to partake of a banquet at Greenwich, known as the Whitebait I) inner , from the whitebait, a small fish not much more than an inch in length, for which Greenwich is famous, and which is con- sidered a great delicacy. It is eaten with cayenne pepper, lemon juice, and brown bread and butter. Pop. of Greenwich (1S*^1) ■131.264. *Greeiiwicli Hospital (PI. G, 70) occupies the site of an old royal palace, built in 1433 by Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, and called by him Placentia or Plaisance. In it Henry VIII. and his daughters, Mary and Elizabeth, were boiii, and here Edward Vl. died. During the Commonwealth the palace was removed. In HJ^h Charles II. began to rebuild it, but he only completed the wing which is named after him. Twenty years later, after the accession 302 31. GREENWICH HOSPITAL. of William III., the building was resumed, and in 1694 the palace was converted into a hospital for aged and disabled sailors. The number of inmates accommodated in the hospital reached its highest point ('2710) in 1814, but afterwards decreased considerably. In 1865 the number was 1400, and of these nearly 1000 took advantage of a resolution of the Admiralty, -which gave the pensioners the option of remaining in the hospital or of receiving an out-door pen- sion, and chose the latter alternative. The revenue of the hospital now amounts to about 160.000/. per annum, being derived mainly from landed property; and upwards of 9000 seamen and marines derive benefit from it in one form or another. The funds also sup- port Greenwich Hospital School (p. 303). The hospital is now partly used as a Royal Naval College, for the instruction of naval officers ; but many of the suites of rooms are at present unoccupied. The expenses of the college and the maintenance of the building are defrayed by votes of Parliament. The building consists of four masses or sections. On the side next the river are the W. or King Charlbs Building, with the library, and the E. or Qijben Anne Building, which now contains a naval museum. These are both in the Corinthian style. Behind are the S.W. or King William Building, and the S.E. or Queen Mary Building, each furnished with a dome in Wren's style. The River Terrace, 890 ft. long, is embellished with two granite obelisks, one in commemoration of the marine officers and men who fell in the New Zealand rebellion of 1863-64 ; and the other [of red granite) in honour of Lieutenant Bellot, a French naval officer, who lost his life in a search for Franklin. The quadrangle in the centre contains a marble statue of George II., in Roman costume, by Rysbrack; an Elizabethan gun found in the Medway and supposed to have be- longed to a ship sunk by the Dutch in 1667; and a gun which was on board the 'Victory" at Trafalgar (1805). In the upper quadrangle is a colossal bust of Nelson, by Chantrey. — On the S.W. side is the Seamen's Hospital, for sailors of all nationalities, transferred hither in 1865 from the Dreadnought, an old man-of-war stationed in the Thames. The Painted Hall (see below) is open to the public daily from 10 to 4, 5, or 6 (on Sun. after 2 p.m.), and the Chapel and Royal Museum are open daily, except. Sun. and Frid., at the same hours. The chief feature of the King William section is the Painted Hall, 106 ft. long, 50 ft. broad, and 50 ft. high, containing the Naval 6'aiieri/ of pictures and portraits which commemorate the naval victories and heroes of Great Britain. The paintings on the wall and ceiling were executed by Sir James Thornhill in 1707-27. The Descriptive Catalogue (price 3d.) supplies brief biographical and historical data. The Vestibule contains, amongst other pictures, Portraits of Co- lumbus and Andrea Doria (from Italian originals), Vasco da Gama (from a Portuguese original), Duquesne by Steuben, and the Earl of Sand%vich 31. GREENWICH PARK. 303 by Gaimlorough ; statues of Admirals St. Vincent, Huw«. Nelsrtn, and Duncan; a memorial tablet t«i Sir John Franklin and hifl cumpaninn!", executed by Westnuicott fon the left): and a painlint; of tlie turret aJiip 'Devastation at a naval review in b.mour of the Shah of I'ir~;ia (1873), by E. ir. Cooke (to the right). — The Hai.l. The f.iur ci.rmr.s ar.- HH. li with marble statues: to the left nf the entrance, Adm. dt- S.iiimnr.-/., bv Steele; to the right, Capt. Sir William Peel, by Theed; to th.- Kft <."f the exit, Viscount Exmouth, hy Macdowell ; to the'rijiht, .\dm. Sir Sidn.-y Smith, by Kirk. The numbering of the [dctures begin.s in thu corner to the right. Among the most conspicuous are the following: LouUtfvbuurg, 11. Destruction of the Spanish Armada in 1.588, '28. Lord Howl-'s victory at Ouessant; 2G. Briggs, George III. presenting a sword to Lord Howe in commemoration of the victorv at (»ues.«ant in 1794; 3^1. Itrunuiumd, Battle of Camperdown (1797)-, 40. Chambers (after Ben. W,:i(), Battle of La Hogue, 1692; 53. Zoffany, Death of Captain Cook in 1779; SU. Deti$, Death of Nelson in ISUo; bO. Turner.. Battle of Trafalgar; 91. Arnold, Battle of Aboukir; 9S. Jones, Battle of St. Vincent; 107. Alien, Nel.Hon boarding the San Nicholas, 1797. Among the most interesting portrait.s are: JO. Hawkins, Drake, and Cavendish, a group after Mylena ; 27. St. Vin- cent; 29. Ho6). About twenty pictures here were formerly assigned to Rubens (1577-164), but traces of an inferior hand are visible in most of them. Among the works ai Flemish masters the large canvasses of Rubens'" rival Van Dvck (1.099- 1641). and those of Teniers the Elder (Antwerp, 1582-1649) and Tenifrs the Younger (1610-1694), call for special notice. The specimens of the last-named, one of the most prominent of all genre painters, will in par- ticular well repay examination. — Catalogue, by J. P. Richter ana J. Sparkes. EooM I. On the left: 334. Bolognese School, St. Cecilia; 9. fuup. Landscape with cattle: 5. Cuyp. Cows and sheep, an early work : K.jo, TV. vonRomeyn (Utrecht, pupil of Berchem : d. 1662), Landscapes with ti - -30, 199. 205, 41. Jan and Andrew Both, Landscapes with figures ami 16, 15. Bartolommeo Breenberg (of Utrecht, settled in Rome; <1 Small landscapes; 14. Corn. Poe/emf-fn-g' (Utrecht; d. 1666), Dancing nymi.n : 112. Adrian van der Neer (Amsterdam; d. 1691), Moonlight scene: -l.'V). ^^61. Teniers the Younger, Landscapes with figures; 52. Teniers the Elder, Cottage and figures: *64, '-63. Wouu:erman. Landscapes. 104. Corn. Dusart (Haarlem, d. 1704). Old building, with figures. 'A remarkably careful and choice picture by this scholar of Adrian van Ostade, who approaches nearest to his master in the glow of his colouring'. — Waagen. 107. Adrian van Ostade (Haarlem; d. 1685), Interior of a cottage with figures: *36. Both, Landscape: 84. Teniers the Younger. Cottage with figures; 85. BrekeUnkamp. Old woman eating porridge : 72. Adrian tan de VelJe t.\jn- sterdam; d. 1672), Landscape with cattle; 86. Teniers the Younger. C'ttrij with figures; 'll>6. Gerard Dou, Lady playing on a keyed instr .: 319. Le Brun, Horatius Codes defending the bridge; 50. Teniers the ) Guard-room: 329. Spanish School, Christ bearing the cross: 'Hi ■ Interior of a riding-school. — The room to the left of R. I. contain^ ili-. Car'wright Collection of Portraits. Room II. On the left: 93. Wouwei'man, View near Scheveningen. earlv work; 113. Willem van de Velde the Younger (Amsterdam; d. 17(/r). Calm: 156. Cw/p, Two horses: '125, 173, '126. Woiiwerman, Land.^capes with figures; i24. Van Dyck, Charity; =229. Karel du Jardin (Amsterdam, pupil of Berchem, painted at Rome; d. 1678), Smith shoeing an ox ; '131. Meindert Hohhema (Amsterdam; d. 1709), Landscape with a water-mill; 130. Adam Pynacker (of Pynacker, near Delft, settled in Italy; d. 16731. Landscape with sportsmen; 135. Van Dyck , Virgin and Infant Savb.ur (repetitions at Dresden and elsewhere); 137. Wouwerman , Farrier and an old convent (engraved under the title 'Le Colombier du Slarcrlial); 139. Teniers the Younger, A chateau with the family of the proprietor; 141. Cuyp, Landscape with figures; '144. Wouwerman, Halt of travellers. =166. W. van de Velde. Brisk gale off the Texel. 'A warm evening light, happily blended with the delicate silver tone of the master, and of the most exquisite finish in all the partfl, makeii this one of his most charming pictures.'' — W. , , n w . '147. Jan Weenir (Amsterdam, 1G40-1719.; 8on and pnpil of Jan BapUiit ■Weenix), Landscape with accessories, dated 1664; 'o\. Adrian lironteer (Haarlem, pupil of F. Hals, d. 1640), Interior of an ale-ho»i/«e, a genuine specimen of a scarce master; 154. Ruysdael, Waterfall, painted in »n un- usually broad manner; *190. A. van Ostade, Bours making merry, 'ot 314 34. DULWICH. astonishing depth, clearness, and warmth of colour'^ 12, '11. Jan Wy- nanis (Haarlem, d. 1677), Landscapes; 140. Jan van Euysum (Amster- dam, d. 1749), Flowers; 160. iV^JC. -Berc^em (Haarlem, d. 1683), Wood scene ; 168. School of Rubens, Samson and Delilah; =^163, *'169. Cuyp , Land- scapes with cattle and figures; 1S2. Rubens, Portrait; 176. Unknown Master, Landscape with cattle; 159. Salvator Rosa (Naples and Rome; d. 1673), Landscape; 178. Unknown Master of Haarlem, Landscape with figures; 358. Gainsborough, Portrait of Thomas Linley ; 116. Teniers the Younger, Winter-scene. EooM III. On the left: *60. Teniers the Younger, Sow and pigs; 191. Adrian van der Werff (court painter to the Elector Palatine; d. 1722), Judgment of Paris; '■'241. Ruysdael, Landscape with mills. 194. Velazquez, Portrait of the Prince of Asturias , son of Philip IV., a copy of the original at Madrid. Antoine TFaWeau (Paris , d. 1721), '^210. Le bal champetre; ''197. La fete champetre. 277. German School, Salvator Mundi ; 200, 209. Berchem, Landscapes; '^'206. Rembrandt, A girl at a window; ''•'196. Jan van der Heyde (Amsterdam, d. 1712), Landscape, figures by A. van de Velde; 213. After Van Dyck, Portrait ; 145. Cuyp, Winter scene ; 22?. Wouwerman, Landscape. 359. Sir Thos. Lawrence (d. 1830), Portrait of Wm. Linley, the author; 183. Northcote , Sir P. J. Bourgeois (p. 312); 150. Pynacker, Landscape with figures; 238. G. Schalcken, Ceres at the old woman's cottage, from Ovid ; '-239, 243. Cuyp, Landscapes near Dort, with cattle ; 242. Van Dyck, Lady Venetia Digby, taken after death ; 226. Italian Master, Venus gathering apples in the garden of the Hesperides ; ''189. Rembrandt, Portrait, early work, painted in 1632; 186. W. van de Velde, Calm. Room IV. On the left: =^248. ifj/riiio, Spanish flower-girl; 252. Charles le Briin (pupil of N. Poussin ; d. 1690), Massacre of the Innocents : =^244. Claude, Landscape, with Jacob and Laban ('one of the most genuine Claudes I know', writes Mr. Ruskin); ''278. Wynants (ascribed to iiwy^cfaeOi Landscape, with figures by A. van de Velde ; 269. Caspar Poussin (pupil of N. Poussin ; d. 1675), Destruction of Niobe and her children; '^275. Claude Lorrain (d. 1682), Italian seaport; 271. Salvator Rosa, Soldiers gaming ('very spirited, and in a deep glowing tone') ; 270. Chmde, Embarkation of St. Paula at Ostia, '•'283. Murillo, Two Spanish peasant boys and a negro boy. 'Very natural and animated, defined in the forms, and painted in a golden warm tone'. — W. ''286. Murillo, Two Spanish peasant boys. N. Poussin, 291. Adoration of the Magi ; 295. Inspiration of a poet. 335. Annibale Carracci (Bologna ; d. 1609), Virgin, Infant Christ, and St. John. If. Poussin, 300. Education of Jupiter; 305. Triumph of David; 315. Rinaldo and Armida. from Tasso; 310. Flight into Egypt. ''306, *307. Raphael, SS. Antony of Padua and Francis of Assisi (retouched) ; 337. Carlo Dolci (Bologna ; d. 1686), Mater Dolorosa; '^83. Cuyp, Landscape with figures (bright and calm sun- light); 365. Antonio Belucci (d. 1726), St. Sebastian with Faith and Charity; 309. Velazquez, Portrait of Philip IV. of Spain. Room V. On the left : 327. Andrea del Sarto (d. 1530), Holy Family (repetition of a picture in the Pitti Palace at Florence, and ascribed by Mr. Crowe to Salviati) ; 287. Umbrian School, Virgin and Child; 381. Guido Reni (d. 1642), St. John in the wilderness ; 336. N. Poussin , Assumption of the Virgin; 240. Van Dyck (ascribed to Rubens), The Graces; 343. After Cristo/ano Allori (d. 1621), Judith with the head of Holofernes ; 339. G. Reni, St. Sebastian; ''333. Paolo Veronese (d. 1583), Cardinal blessing a donor; 3i7. Murillo, La Madonna delRosario; 349. Domenichino, Adoration of the Shepherds; 351. Rubens, Venus, Mars, and Cupid, a late work; 355. School of Rubens, Rubens's mother. Room VI. On the left: 110, 111. Vernet, Landscapes; 861. Gains- borough, Samuel Linley; 46. Teniers the Elder, Landscape with shepherd and sheep; 53, 89. Loutherb'ourg , Landscapes; 866. Gainsborough, Mrs. Moodey and her two children; 340. Sir Joshua Reynolds (d. 1792), Mrs. Siddons as the Tragic Muse, painted in 1789. — *1. Gainsborough, Portraits of Mrs. Sheridan and Mrs. Tickell, the daughters of Thomas Linley. 34. DULWICH. lUf) Mrs. Tickell sits on a bank, while Jlrs. Sheridan stands half behind her. Waagen characterises this work as one of the best apecimen.i of the master, and Mrs. Jameson says : 'The head (vf Mrs. Sheridan i.s e.xcuiifiitf and, without having all the beauty which Sir J(».shua gave her in th.' famous St. Cecilia, there is even more mind\ 215. Wilson, Tivoli; 143. Reynolds, Mother and sick child: 31. Ttnievt the Eldej\ Land.^^cape, with the Magdalene. *102. Daniel Seghers (Antwerp; d. 16G1), Flowers encircline a bas-relief. 'A very admirable picture of this master, so justly celebrated in his own times, and whose red roses still flourish in their iirit;inal beauty while those of the later painters, De Heem, Huysum, and Rach.-l Iluysch! have more or less changed. The vase is probably by Erasmus (^ucllinus'! — Waagen. 355. Tenievs the Elder, Landscape, with the repentant Peter: 302. Gainsborough, Son of Thomas Linley. Dulwich College, a separate building, contains other old portraits. In the chapel is the tomb of Alleyne, the founder. — About3niiii. walk beyond the Picture Gallery is the * Greyhound Inn. 35. Hampton Court. Richmond. Kew. These places are frequently visited on a Sunday, as the Palace of Hampton Court, with its fine picture-gallery, is almost the only resort of the kind in or about Loudon which is not closed on that day. One of the best ways to make this excursion is to go to Hampton Court by railway ; to walk througli Hampton Court Gardens and Rushy Park to the Teddington station; to take the train thence to Kichmond, and to return to London, via Kew, on the top of an omni- bns ; or, if time permit, we may return by steamboat from Kew (lY2-'2l^rs. ; fare to Chelsea Is., thence to London Bridge 3ff.). Some of the coaches mentioned at p. 32 pass through Hampton Court. Omnibuses, chars-a-bancs , and brakes ply frequently on Sun. afternoon from Charing Cross, Piccadilly, etc., to Kew (Is.). Hi"'li- mond (Is. 6d), and Hampton Court (2$. 6d.). Another pleasant round, involving more walking, is as follows: by train to Richmond; drive via Strawberry Hill to Teddinciton; walk throujih Bushy Park to Hampton Court and through Richmond Park to Richmond; then back to London by train. Railway. We may travel by the South Western Railway from Waterloo Station to Hampton Court ; or by the North London Railway from Broad Street, City (comp. p. 34) to Ken\ Richmond, and Teddington (p. 321 ) ; or by the Metropolitan District Railway from the Mansion House, Charing Cross, Victoria, Westminster, or Kensington to Richmond, and thence to Teddington. The Southwestern Railway (from Waterloo Station to Hamp- ton Court 34 hr. ; fares 2s. , Is. 6tZ. , Is. 3d.) runs for a consider- able distance on a viaduct above tlie streets of London. Vauxhall, the first station, is still within the town ; but we omerge irom its precincts near Clapham Junction, the second station. Tlu- fU.-t glimpse of the pretty scenery traversed by the line is obt.Tim-.i iiti r passing through the long cutting beyond Clapham. Tlie Inndscap*', bordered on the N. by gently sloping hills, and dotted with groups 316 35. HAMPTON COURT. of magiiiflcent trees and numerous comfortable-looking country- houses, affords a cliarming and thoroughly English picture. — 772 M. Wimbledon lies a little to the S. of Wimbledon Common, where the great volunteer rifle-shooting competition was held annually down to 1889 (henceforth to be at Bisley, near Woking). Wim- bledon House was once occupied by Calonne , the French minister, and afterwards by the Due d'Enghien , who was shot at Vincennes in 1804. About ^/^ M. from the station is a well-preserved fortified camp of cruciform shape, probably of Saxon origin. Beyond Wimbledon a line diverges to the left to Epsom, near which are Epsom Downs , where the great races , the 'Derby' and the 'Oaks', take place annually in May or June (see p. 46). Before reaching (10 M.) Coombe-Malden, we pass, on a height to the right, Coombe House, formerly the property of Lord Liverpool, who in 1815, when Prime Minister, entertained the Emperor of Russia, the King of Prussia , and the Prince Regent here. About 2 M. beyond (12 M.) Surbiton the branch-line to Hampton Court diverges to the right from the main line, passing Thames Ditton, pleasantly situated in a grassy neighbourhood. On arriving at Hampton Court {^Castle, Prince of Wales, at the station ; Mitre, beyond the bridge ; King's Arms, Greyhound, flrst- class inns, at the entrance to Bushy Park; Park Cottage; Queen's Arms, D. from Is. 6d.), we turn to the right, cross the bridge over the Thames, which commands a charming view of the river, and follow the broad road to the Palace on the right. The Palace is open to the public gratis daily, except Fridays, from 10 to 6, from 1st April to 1st October, and from 10 to 4 in winter; Sun- days, 2-6 or 2-4 p. m. The Gardens are open daily until dusk. The Palace was originally built by Cardinal Wolsey, the fav- ourite of Henry YIII., in red brick with battlemented walls, on the site of a property mentioned in Domesday Book, and was afterwards presented by him to the King. It was subsequently occupied by Cromwell, the Stuarts, William III., and the first two monarchs of the house of Hanover. Since the time of George II., Hampton Court has ceased to be a royal residence, and it is now inhabited by various pensioners of the Crown. The buildings to the left on en- tering from the W. are used as barracks for a cavalry guard. The Palace comprises three principal courts, the Entrance Court, the Clock Court, and the Fountain Court. Above the entrance to the central or Clock Court are seen the armorial bearings of AVolsey, with his motto 'Dominusmihi adjutor'. The court is named from the curious Astronomical Clock ^ originally constructed for Henry YIII., and recently repaired and set going again. On the towers of the archways between the difl'erent courts are terracotta medallions of Roman emperors (the best being that of Nero), obtained by Wol- sey from the sculptor , Joannes Maiano. From the S. side of 35. HAMPTON COURT. '317 this court we pass through an Ionic colonnade, erected by Wren, to the King's Grand Staircase, adorned with allegorical paintings by Verrio. Umbrellas and sticks are left at the foot of it. The names of the rooms are written above the doors, on the iiisidi-; we always begin with the pictures on the left. Visitors are required tu pass from room to room in one direction only. The gallery is rich in Italian pictures, especially of the Venetian school, but the names attached to them are often erroneous. The following list pays no regard to the names on the pictures themselves. Coiup. K. Law's 'History of the Palace in Tudor Times' (1885) and 'Historical Guide to the Pictures at Hampton Court' (1881). The 'lllu.strater. Slaughter of the Innocents, thoroughly Dutch in conception; 751. Hol- bein, Landscape; 769. James I., copy of a painting by an unknown artist in Ham House. Above, opposite the window, 704. Sny'ders, Boar-lmnt. We now pass through a small, dark chamber on the right, and enter the last long gallery, called the — "Mantegna Gallert, which contains the gem of the whole collec- tion, the Triumphal Procession of Caesar, by Mantegna (Nos. 87/1 ^'H. extending the whole length of the wall, and protected by glass. Tli' of pictures, painted in distemper upon linen, is in parts sadly li and has also been retouched. Mantegna began the work, which \ tended for stage-scenery, in 1485, and finished it in 149092. Tlu i r:.- was purchased by Charles I. along with the rest of the Duke of Mantua's collection, and valued by the Parliament after the kings death at li««)/. It was rescued by Cromwell, along with Raphael's cartoons. Section I. Beginning of the procession with trumpeters, standard- bearers, and warriors; on the flag-poles paintings of the victorie.* of Caesar. — II. Statues of Jupiter and Juno in chariots, bust of Cybele, w»r- like instruments. — III. Trophies of war; weapon.s, urns, tripods, etc. — IV. Precious vessels and (jrnaments; oxen led by pages; train of musicians. — V. Elephants bearing fruit, flowers, and cand.Iat.ra. — VI. Urns, armour, etc. borne in triumph. — VII. Proce.sM.n -'f the captives; men, women, and children, and mocking ligiir.'^ :.ii- !i ili'- populace. — VIII. Dancing musicians, standard-bearers w' among them a soldier of the German Legion, bearing; a -t the she-wolf of Rome. — IX. Julius Caesar, with sceptre and i .-..■ - - ^, in a triumphal car; behind him Victoria; on his standard the Ic^cuJ, 'Veni. vidi. vici\ 320 35. HAMPTON COURT. 'Witli a stern realism, wMch was his virtue, Mantegna multiplied illustrations of tlie classic age in a severe and chastened style , balancing his composition with the known economy of the Greek relief, conserving the dignity of sculptural movement and gait, and the grave marks of the classic statuaries , modifying them though but slightly with the newer accent of Donatello. . . . His contour is tenuous and fine and remarkable for a graceful and easy flow; his clear lights, shaded with grey, are blended with extraordinary delicacy, his colours are bright and varie- gated, yet thin, spare, and "ot gauzy substance.' — Croice and Cavalcaselle. The 3Iantegna Gallery also contains a few other paintings, including portraits of Jane Shore, mistress of Edward IV. (No. 793; immediately to the right of the door by which we enter) and of Christian, Duke of Brunswick, in his youth (Xo. 5G9; by Hotithorst). We now pass the top of the Queen's Staircase, embellished with ceiling-paintings by Vick^ and a large picture by Hont/wrst, representing Charles I. and his wife as Apollo and Diana, and reach two other rooms, which contain the remainder of the pictures. Room I. (The Queen's Ouard Chamber). On the left: 811. Civo Fen-i, Triumph of Bacchus; 815, 816. Portraits of Giulio Romano and Michael Angelo; 818. Milani, Portrait of a child; 819. Portrait of Tintoretto; 824. Kneller, John Locke; 839. Battoni, Pope Benedict XIV.; 842. Frederick the Great; 846. Knellev^ Sir Isaac Newton; 850. Romanelli, after Guido Rem, Triumph of Venus, with Bacchus and Ariadne; 862. Leli/, Portrait of himself. The wrought-iron railings, generally ascribed to Huntington Shaw (p. 278), are two of twelve formerly in the gardens. — We now pass through a small Ante-Room into — Room II. (The Queen's Presence Chamber), with sea-pieces: 871. Zuc- chero, Adoration of the Shepherds; 873. Post, View in the West Indies. W. van de Velde, '879. British ship engaged with three Spanish vessels; 880. Close of the same action. 884. James, View on the Thames, comprising old London Bridge ; 898, 899. Muggins, Battle of Trafalgar. W. van de Velde, 9(^. British fleet attacking the French fleet in a harbour; *910. Burning of a fleet 887. S. van Ruysdael, River in Holland; 912. W. van de Velde, Boats attacking the Dutch fleet in a harbour. Here also are two pieces of timber from Nelson's flag-ship, the Victory. The Great Hall, 106 ft. in length, 40 ft. in breadth , and 60 ft. in height, hegun hy Henry VHI. immediately after the death of Wolsey, and completed in 1536, contains a handsome high-pitched timber roof with pendants, good stained- glass windows (mostly modern), and line tapestry representing scenes from the life of Abraham. The room at the end has a modern portrait of Wolsey over the chimney-piece. A door to the right, at the foot of the staircase where umbrellas have been left, leads to the gardens, to reach which we pass through a small court, emerging at the E. facade of the Palace. The * Garden in front of the Palace is laid out in the French style, and embellished with tasteful flower-beds and shady avenues. In the private garden, on the S. side of the Palace, is exhibited a vine of the Black Hamburgh variety, planted in 1768, the stem of which is 38 in. in circumference, and the branches of which spread over an area of 2200 sq. ft. The yield of this gigantic vine amounts annually to 1200 or 1300 bunches of grapes, weighing about 3y'4 lb. each. — The old Tennis Court, opening from the garden to the N. of the Palace, is still used. The Maze (atlm. Id.), or labyrinth, in the so-called Wilderness to the N. of the Palace, may be successfully penetrated by keeping in- ; 35. RICHMOND. 321 variably to the left, except the first time wc have an option, wlnri we keep to the extreme right; in coinino; out, we ki'cp to tli.* riyht, till we reach the same place, when wo turn to the left. Oppositi-, between Hampton Court and Teddington, is Ilushy J'urk, a royal domain of about 11,000 acres, entered by four s-'tes: viz., the ouv hete, one near Teddington , one at Hampton Wick (p. HIT)), and one at Hampton village. Its white-thorn trees in blossom are very beautiful, but its chief glory is in the end of spring or in early sum- mer, when the horse-chestnuts are in full bloom, affording a sight quite unequalled in England (usually announced in the London papers). These majestic old trees, planted by William HI. and interspersed with limes, form a triple avenue, of more than a milr in length, from Hampton Court to Teddington. Near the Hampton Court end of the avenue is a curious basin with carp and ^mld-lish. The deer in the park, never being molested, are so tame that th»-y scarcely exert themselves to get out of the way of visitors. Tht-y even thrust their heads in at the open windows of the houses that look on the park, insisting on being fed. The residence of the ranger is a sombre red brick house, screened off by railings, near one margin of the park. Travellers provided with a return-ticket of the North I.oner- mitting, from London Bridge to Hampton Court (22 M. in 2-3 hrs. ; fare 1*. iid , return 25. Gd.)\ but they are seldom able to proceed farther than Kew. Ity embarking at Chelsea or Battersea Park the traveller may shorten the trip by about 1 hour. The scenery, after London is fairly left behind, is of a very soft and pleasing character, consisting of luxuriant wot>ds , smiling meadows, and picture,sque villas and villages. The course of the river is very tortuous. The words right and left in the following description are used with reference to going upstream. Rowing and Sailing Boats may be hired at Richmond, Kingston, Hampton Wick, and several other places on the river, the charges var> - ing according to the season, the size of the boat, etc. (previous under- standing advisable). The prettiest part of the river utar London f..r short boating excursions is the stretch between Richmond and llampt' ■■ Court. A trifling fee, which may be ascertained from the official taM.- posted at each lock {Zd.-is. for rowing-boats), has to be j-aid fur pa^yiint; the locks. Rowing-boats going upstream generally keep near the bank to escape the current. Boats pass each other to the right, but a boat overtaking another one keeps to the left. The prominent objects on both banks of the Thames between London Bridge and Battersea Bridge have already been pointed out in various parts of the Handbook, so that notliing more is required 21* 524 36. FULHAM. here than a list of them in the order in which they occur, with references to the pages where they are described : — South Eastern Railway Bridge, Southicark Bridge (p. 117), St. Paul's Cathedral [right; p. 81), London, Chatham, and Dover Railway Bridge (p. 113), Blackfriars Bridge (p. 112), Victoria Embankment (right; p. 113), the City of London School (right; p. 114), the Temple (right; p. 136), with the new Law Courts (p. 139) appearing above it, Somerset House (right; p. 142), Waterloo Bridge (p. 143), Cleopatra's Needle (p. 114), Charing Cross Railway Bridge, Montague House (right; p. 184), Westminster Bridge (p. 192), Houses of Parliament (right ; p. 184), Westminster Abbey (right ; p. 193), Albert Embankment (left; p. 114), St. Thomas's Hospital (left; p. 297), Lambeth Palace (left; p. 297), Lambeth Bridge (p. 297), Millbank Penitentiary (right; p. 292), Vauxhall Bridge (p. 292), London, Chatham, and Dover Railway Bridge ^Victoria, p. 292), Chelsea Suspension Bridge (p. 281), Battersea Park (left; p. 299), Chelsea Hospital (right ; p. 294) , Albert Bridge (p. 299), Battersea Bridge (p. 294). A little way above Battersea we reach — L. Wandsworth (railway-station, see p. 335), an outlying suburb of London, containing a large number of factories and brew- eries. The scenery now begins to become more rural in character, and the dusky hues of the great city give place to the green tints of meadow and woodland. About 1 M. above Wandsworth the river is spanned by Putney Bridge, erected in 1886, connecting Fulham, on the right, with Putney, on the left. R. ralham is principally noted for containing a country residence of the Bishops of London, who have been lords of the manor from very early times. The Episcopal Palace, which stands above the bridge, dates in part from the 16th century. Its grounds contain some fine old trees, and are enclosed by a moat about 1 M. in circumference. In the library are portraits of Sandys, Archbishop of York, Laud, Ridley the martyr, and other ecclesiastics, chiefly Bishops of London. The first bishop who is known with certainty to have resided here was Robert Seal, in 1241. A handsome, but somewhat incongruous, chapel was added to the palace in 1867. Fulham Church has a tower of the 14th cent. , and contains the tombs of numerous Bishops of London. In a house at the N. end of Fulham, on the road to Hammersmith, Richardson wrote 'Clarissa Harlowe'. L. Putney (railway-station, p. 335) is well known to Londoners as the starting-point for the annual boat-race between Oxford and Cambridge universities (p. 48), which takes place on the river be- tween this village and Mortlake (p. 325). Thomas Cromwell, Wolsey's secretary, and afterwards Earl of Essex, was the son of a Putney blacksmith ; and Edward Gibbon, the historian, was born here in 1737.' In 1806 William Pitt died at Bowling Green House, on the S. side of the town, near Putney Heath, where, eight years before, he had engaged in a duel with George Tierney. Lord Castlereagh 36. MORTLAKE. 325 and George Canning also fought a duel on the heatli in ISO!). The tower of Putney Church is about 400 years old. *Beautiful walk from Putney over Putnev Heath, through the village of Roehampton (IVz^I. to the S.) and Richmond Park, to (4 Ml Richmond. The fine old house, caAledi Barnes Elms , whii-,li we now soon observe on the left, was granted by Queen Elizabeth to Sir Fran- cis Walsingham , who entertained his sovereign lady here on various occasions. It was afterwards occupied by Jacob Tonson, the publisher, who built a room here for the famous portraits of the Kit-Cat Club, painted for him by Sir Godfrey Kneller fp. 320). On the opposite bank, a little farther on, formerly aUxjA Brandenburtj/t House, built in the time of Charles I. : it was once inhabited l>y Fairfax the Parliamentary general, by Queen Caroline, consort of George IV., who died here in 1821. and by various other notabilities. R. Hammersmith (railway-station), now a town of considerable size, but of little interest to strangers. The Church of St. Paul, consecrated in 1631, containing some interesting monuments, a ceiling painted by Cipriani, and an altarpiece carved by Grinling Gibbons, was pulled down in 1882 to make room for a new and larger edifice. The town contains numerous Roman Catholic in- habitants and institutions. Hammersmith is connected by a sus- pension-bridge , opened in 1887, with the cluster of villas called Castelnau. R. Chiswick frail way-station, p. 335) contains the gardens of the Horticultural Society (p. 271). Opposite Chiswick lies Chis- irick Eyot. In Chiswick House, the property of the Duke of Devonshire, Charles James Fox died in 1806, and George Canning in 1827. It was built by the Earl of Burlington, the builder of Burlington House, Piccadilly (p. 220), in imitation of the Villa Capra at Vicenza. one of Palladio's best works. The wings, by Wyatt, were added afterwards. — The church- yard contains the grave of Hogarth, the painter (d. 1764), who died in a "dwelling near the church, now called Hogarth House. L. Barnes (railway-station, p. 335), a village with a church partly of the 12th cent., freely restored, and possessing a modern, ivy-clad tower. At the next bend lies — L. Mortlake (rail, stat., p. 335), with a church occupying the site of an edifice of the 14th cent.; the tower dates from 1543. In the interior is a tablet to Sir Philip Francis (d. 1818), now ustially identified with Junius. Mortlake is the terminus of the University Boat Race course (comp. p. 324). The two famous astrologers. Dee and Partridge, resided at Mortlake, where Queen Elizabeth is said to have consulted the lirat-named. — Pleasant walk through (S.) East Sheen to Richmond Park. L. Kew (p. 322) has a railway-station on the opposite bank, with which a stone bridge connects it. Picturesque walk to Kiflimond. R. Brentford (p. 323), near which is Sion House (p. 323). R. Isleworth (rail, stat.), a favourite residence of London merchants, with numerous villas. The woods and lawns on the banks of the river in this neighbourhood are particularly charming. The course of the stream is from N. to S. "We now pass undi-r a railway-bridge, and then a stone bridge, the latter at — 326 36. TWICKENHAM. L. Richmond (see p. 321); boats may be hired here (p. 323). L. Petersham (Dysart Arms), "svith a red brick church, in a quaint classical style, dating from 1505. Close to the church is Ham Uouse^ also of red brick, with its back to the river, the meet- ing-place of the Cabal during its tenancy by the Duke of Lauderdale. A little farther from the river stands Sudbrook House , built by the Duke of Argyll (d. 1743j , and now a hydropathic establishment. It is immortalised by Scott in the "Heart of Midlothian' , as the scene of the interview between Jeanie Deans and the Duke. On the opposite bank of the Thames is — R. Twickenham (Railway; King's Head; Albany), with a great number of interesting historical villas and mansions. The name most intimately associated with the place is that of Pope, whose villa, however . has been replaced by another, while his grotto is also altered. Near the site of Pope's villa stands Orleans House, a building of red brick, once the residence of Louis Philippe and other members of the Orleans family, and now used by the Orleans Club (p. 75) as a pleasant country resort for members, their fam- ilies, and their friends. Farther up the river, ahout V? M. above Twickenham, is Strawberry Hill, Horace Walpole's famous villa; it was long the residence of the late Countess Waldegrave, who collected here a great many of the objects of art which adorned it in Walpole's time. Among other celehrities connected with Twickenham are Henry Fielding, the novelist, and Kitty Clive, the actress. Eel Pie Island (Inn), opposite Twickenham, is a favourite resort of picnic parties. R. Teddington (p. 321), with the first lock on the Thames and a new foot-bridge (opened in 1889). L. Kingston [Griffin; Sun; Railivay ; rail, stat., p. 336^, an old Saxon town, where someof the early kings of England were crowned. In the market-place, surrounded by an ornamental iron railing, is the Stone which is said to have been used as the king's seat during the coronation ceremony. The names of those believed to have been crowned here are carved on the stone. The Town Hall is an imposing edifice, built in 1840. The Church of All Saints is a fine cruciform structure, dating in part from the l-ith century. Kingston is united with Hampton Wick on tlie other bank, by a stone bridge , con- structed in 1827. It is surrounded by numerous villas and country- residences, and is a favourite resort of Londoners in summer. Rowing and sailing boats may be hired either at Kingston or Hamp- ton Wick. — Pleasant walks to Ham Common, and through Bushy Park to (2 M.) Hampton Court. Steaming past Surbiton, the southern suhurb of Kingston, and Thames Ditton (p. 316), on the left, we now arrive at the bridge crossing the river at — Hampton Court, see p. 316. (The village of Hampton lies on the right, about 1 M. farther up.) H27 37. Hampstead. Highgate. Tlie visitor .shouM f:<> tu Ilamjishfid l.y .imiiibus {\>. 31 1 ur train (North London Kailway. from IJroad Str.ci (. iind walk Ih.-noe U\ Hi>n, which may also be reachtd fr^m Chalk Farm and other stations of the ^^orth London Railwatj (via Dahton Junc- tion), on foot, through Ejyping Forest, to (0 M.) Waltham Abbey. From Waltham Abbev to (6 M.) Rue House bv railwav. From Kye House back to (19 M.) London by railway (fares 3^. M.. 25. lUd., U. Id'.i. We may start either from Fenchurch Street Station fp. 34) or from Liverpool Street Station (p. 33). The first stations after Liver- pool Street are Bishopsgate, Bethnal Green (p. 128), Old Ford, and Stratford, where the train joins the North London line. Tht-n Leyton and Leytonstone. At (8 M.) Snaresbrook is an Infant Orphan Asylum, with accommodation for 300 children (to the k-ft of tho line). 8-'^'4 M. George Lane; 9^ 4 M. Woodford, 3 M. from ChiuL'- ford fsee' below); 11 M. Buckiiurst Hill. Then (12 M. ) Loughton (Railway Hotel), within a few hundred paces of the Forest. Another route to Popping Forest is by the Great Eastern IJailway from Liverpool Street, via Wulthamstow, to (9 M.) Chinyford (f.ir.-s I.«. 5c/., Is. id., lUd.J, which may also be reached from Iho Svrlh Lowii-n Railwatj via Dalston Junction and Hackney or via Gotinl Oak. - Chingford (-Roi/al Forest Hotel. D. U. 6(i.), which lies 2 31. to the W. of Hu. k - Hill,^ about 4V2 31. to the S.W. of Waltham Abbey, and 2V-.' M. t- of High Beach (?ce below), is perhaps the best startiri|;-i"'«"' •"'"""> **'' visit the most attractive parts of the Forest. Open convryanc s of kinds run from Chingf .rd station and fr< m the Hoyal For.«>t lit Hi^h Beach (6d. each), Waltham AbI.ey, i'hi%'well, Kppinsr, and il. r points of interest; the best cunvevance is the four-horse coach siattui.; at the h tel. On an eminence to the W. of Chingford is an obeli,*k, due >. 330 38. WALTHAM ABBEY. from Greenwich Observatory, and sometimes used in verifying astrono- mical calculations. Epping Forest, along with the a.(i.joinin g Hainault Forest, at one time extended almost to the gates of London. In 1793 there still remained 12,000 acres unenclosed , hut these have been since re- duced to ahout 5500 acres. The whole of the unenclosed part of the Forest was recently purchased by the Corporation of London, and was opened by Queen Victoria in May, 1882, as a free and inalienable public park and place of recreation. One of the finest points in the Forest, if not the very finest, is *High Beach, an elevated tract covered with magnificent beech-trees, about 1^2^. from Loughton. Tennyson was living here when he wrote 'The Talking Oak' and 'Locksley Hall'. There is an inn here, called the 'King's Oak', which is much resorted to by picnic parties. About 21/2 M. farther, on the northern verge of the Forest, stands Copped Hall, a magnificent mansion in the midst of an extensive park. The town of Epping, with 2300 inhab., lies 2 M. to the E. of this point. Near Buckhurst Hill (p. 329) is the Roebuck Inn, and there is also a small inn (the Robin Hood) at the point where the road from Loughton joins that to High Beach. On the high-road between Loughton and Epping lies Amhreshury Bank, an old British camp, 12 acres in extent, and nearer Loughton is another similar earthwork. Tradition reports that it was here that Boadicea, Queen of the Iceni, was defeated by Suetonius, on which occasion 80,000 Britons are said to have perished. — A good map of Epping Forest, price 2d., may be obtained of H. Sell, 10 Bolt Court, Fleet Street. Good hand- books to the Forest are those ot E. N. Buxton (Stanford; Is. 6d.) and Percy Lindley (6d.). Waltham Abbey lies on the river Lea, about 2 M. from the W. margin of the forest, and 6 M. to the W. of Copped Hall. The abbey was founded by the Saxon king Harold, and after his death in 1066 became his burial-place. The nave of the old abbey has been restored, and now serves as the parish-church. The round arches are specimens of very early Norman architecture, and may even have been bnilt before the Conquest. Adjoining the S. aisle is a fine Lady Chapel, in the decorated style. The tower is modern. The station lies ^^M. to theAV. of the abbey; and V4^- beyond the station stands Waltham Cross, one of the crosses which Edward I. erected on the different spots where the body of his queen Eleanor rested on its way from Nottinghamshire to London. The cross has been well restored. Another of these monuments, that at Charing Cross, has been already mentioned (see p. 145). At one of the entrances to Theobalds Park, near Waltham Cross , stands there- erected Temple Bar (comp. p. 140). The railway journey from Waltham Abbey to Rye House occu- pies 20 minutes. The intermediate stations are Cheshunt and Brox- bourne; at the latter is the Crown Inn, with an extensive garden, which, in the rose season, presents a beautiful sight. The river Lea, near which the line runs, is still, as in the days of its old admirer Isaac Walton, famous for its fishing ; and the various 39. ST. ALBANS. 331 stations on this line arc much Ircquented by London .in-^h'r.s. Nearly the whole of the river is divided into 'swims', which arc either |>rivat(! property, or confined to subscribers. Visitors, however, can obtain a davn fishinfi by pnymcnt of a small fee (at the inns). The free portions ..f t'h>: river do nut allnrd such fiood sport. Eye House, a favourite summer- resort for schools, clulis, societies, and workshop picnics, was built in tliercipn ofHonryVI.; it belonged, with the manor, to Henry VIII., and afterwards passcji into private hands. It is now a tavern. There are still some remains of the old building, particularly the embattled (inte llnine. As many as 1000 school children or exciirsionists have dined in ]{yo House at one time. The grounds are large and beautiful, afford in;: abundant open air amusements ('G'wiV/e', price 3(/. ). The lishitii: near Rye House, both in the Lea and the New Iliver, is very «rood. Rye House gave its name in 1688 to the famous 'Rye House IMot', which had for its object the assassination of Charles II. ami the Duke of York, as they travelled that way. The supposed con- spiracy , which was headed by Rumbold, then owner of the manor, is said to have failed on account of the premature arrival of the King and his brother. It led to the execution of Rumbold, Al- gernon Sidney, Lord William Russell, etc. Whether a conspiracy, however, existed at all, is doubtful. Fkom Rye House to (6 M.) Hektfokd , railway in 15 minutes. First station St. Jfargarefs. In the vicinity, on a branch of the Lea, is the pleasant little village of Amwell. On a small island in the stream is a mouTiment to Sir Hugh Mi/ddelton, who conducted the New River water to London (comp. p. 100). — Next stat. Ware, a busy market-town of 5276 inhabitants, with a considerable trade in malt and corn. At the inn called the 'Saracen's Head'' was till lately exhibited the Great Bed of Ware, which measures 12 ft. both in lenjith and breadth. The bed and it,s trap- pings now form part of the attractions of the Rye House. It is alluded to by .Shakspeare {Twelfth Night, iii. 2). — Then Hertford (SalMunj Arms; Dinifidale Arms; White Hart), the capital of the shire of that name, situ- ated on the S. bank of the Lea. It contains the remains of a castle of the 10th cent., and also a ca.stle erected in the reign of the first t'liarles, now used as a school. The preparatory school in connectiim with Christ's Hospital is at Hertford (comp. p. 92). In the vicinity are varioiis hand- some country-seats. Among these are (S.W.) liaij/ordhurt/, with the Kit- Cat portraits (p. 325)-, Balls Park, the seat of the Marquis of Tnwnshcnd; ».T\A. Brickendonbimj. — On the W. is Panshanger, for many years the resi- dence of Lord Palmerston, now the seat of Earl Cowper, with a t:<"id collection of pictures, of which the following are the most impnrtani: "Raphael, Two Madonnas; ^ Fra Bartolommeu, ILily Family; 'Andr-a d, I Sarto, Three pictures illustrating the story of .loscph ; Sfhasliuii dil I'l^ ' The Fornarina. Admission is granted on previous application by 1 •• : The famous Panshanger Oak, one of the largest oaks in England, -i.m : on the lawn to the W. of the house. 39. St. Albans. Harrow. Luton. I>un.^tiihle. Midland Railway, from St. Pancras, 20 M., in '/Vl tir. tfar.-« .' Is. "i^kd., no second class); North Western Railway, from Eust-m > , 24 M., in 3/4-13/4 hr. (fares Is. Sd., Is., {s. Viid.); or Great yorthem^l. way, from King's Cross, 23'/-^ M. in 3/,-li/« hr. (fares 2s. 8d.. 2^., U. <' r| >• Our chief description applies to the first -mentioned route, for which 332 39. HARROW. through-tickets may be obtained at any of the Metropolitan Railway stations. — During the summer months a four-horse Coach runs to St. Albans four times a week, starting at 11 a.m. from Hatchett's, Piccadilly, and, for the return journey, from the Peahen, St. Albans, at 4 p.m. (2V2 hrs. ; fare 65., return 10s.). The drive is picturesque and pleasant. The first stations on the Midland Railway are Camden Road, Kentish Town , Haverstock Hill , Finchley Road , and West End, where we leave London fairly behind us and enter the open country. Hampstead here lies on the right and Willesden on the left, while the spire of Harrow church, also on the left , may be descried in the distance. Then Child's Hill, and (51/2 M.) Welsh Harp, with an artificial lake, formed as a reservoir for the Regent Canal. It contains abundance of fish, and attracts large numbers of anglers (who for permission to fish apply at the inn, 'Old Welsh Harp' ; day-tickets Is. and 2s. 6d.). It is also a favourite resort of skaters in winter. — 6 M. Hendon, with a picturesque ivy-grown church. — 8 M. Mill Hill , with a Roman Catholic Missionary College and a Congregationalist College. Sir Stamford Raffles died here in 1826 ; and William Wilberforce lived here , and built the Gothic Church of St. Paul (1836). About 1 M. to the W. lies Edgware^ and a little more remote is Wldlchurch. While Handel was chapel-master to the Duke of Chandos at Canons, a magnificent seat in this neio:hbourhood, now demolished, he acted as organist in the church of Whitchurch (1718-1771). The church still contains the organ on which he played, and also some fine wood- carving. A blacksmith's shop in Edgware is said to be the place where Handel conceived the idea of his 'Harmonious Blacksmith'. 11 M. Elstree, a picturesque village in Hertfordshire, which we here enter. Good fishing may be obtained in the Elstree reservoir. — 14 M. Radlett. — 20 M. St. Albans, p. 333. If the London and North Western RaUicay route be chosen, the traveller is recommended to visit, either in going or returning, Harrow on the Hill (Kinr/s Head; Railway), one of the stations on that line (the station being 1 M. from the town). The large public school here, founded in 1571, is scarcely second to Eton, and has numbered Lord Byron, Sir Robert Peel, Sheridan , Spencer Perceval, Viscount Palmerston, and numerous other eminent men among its pupils. The older portion of the school is in the Tudor style. The chapel, library, and speech-room are all quite modern. The panels of the great school-room are covered with the names of the boys, including those of Byron, Peel, and Palmerston. The number of scholars is now about 500. Harrow church has a lofty spire, which is a conspicuous object in the landscape for many miles round. The churchyard commands most extensive 'View. A flat tombstone, on which Byron used to lie, a when a boy, and compose his juvenile poems, is .still pointed out. — A visit to Harrow alone is now most easily accomplished by the extension of the Swiss Cottage branch of the Metropolitan Railway (from Baker Street in V2 hr. ; fares Is. bd.. Is., 81/2'/.). Bevi nd Harrow this line goes on to Pin7ier, Rickmansicorth., and Chesham. The traveller who is equal to a walk of 10 M. , and is fond of natural scenery, may make the excursion to St. Albans very pleasantly as follows. By railway from King's Cross {Great Northern Railway) to (9 M.) Barnet; thence on foot, via (1 M.) Chipping Barnet and (5 M.) i^^«<»"ee (see above), to(10M.) Watford, a station on the London and North Western Rail- way; and from Watford by rail to (7 M.) St. Albans. If the traveller means to return by the Great Northern Railway, he should take a return-ticket to Barnet. — Near Hatfield , the first station on this line in returning from St. Albans, is Half eld House., the seat of the Marquis of Salisbury, 39. ST. ALBANS. X\'^ a fine mansion built in the 17th cent, on tlie site of an earlier paJacr, in which Queen Elizabeth was detained in a state of senii-captivily before her accession to the thnme (coniii. Baedeker's Great liri(ain). St. Albans {Peahen^ (ieorye, botli near tlie Abbey, nnpretend- in?) lies a short distance to tlie E. of the site of' Vtrulnmiuw, the most important town in the S. of England during the Uoinan period, of which the fosse and fragments of the walls leinain. Ita name is derived from St. Alhan, a Roman soldier, the proto-mart>r of Christianity in our island, who was executed here in A.I). '^Q^. Holmhnrst Hill, near the town, is supposed to have been the scene of his death. The Roman town fell into ruins after the dejtarture of the Romans, and the new town of St. Albans began to spring up after 795, when Offa II., King of Mercia, founded here, in memory of St. Alban, the magnificent abbey, of which the fine church and a large square gateway are now the only remains. Pop. ( 1(S,S1 ) l(l,9!i(l. The *Abbey Church is in the form of a cross, with a tower at the point of intersection, and is one of the finest and largest churches in England. It was raised to the dignity of a cathedral in 1877, when the new episcopal see of St. Albans was created. It measures 550 ft. in length, (being the second longest church in England, coming after Winchester) , by 175 ft. in breadth across the transepts; the fine Norman Toxcer is 145 ft. high. The earliest parts of the existing building, in which Roman tiles from Verula- mium were freely made use of, date from the 11th cent. (ca. lOSO) ; the Choir was built in the 13th cent, and the Lady Chapel in the 14th century. An extensive restoration of the building, in.-luding a new E.E. W. Front, with a large Dec. window, is nearing an end. St. Albans, 320 ft. above the sea, lies higher than any other English cathedral. See Fronde's 'Annals of an English Abbey'. The fine Interior (adm. 6c?.-, tickets procured at the booksellers' in the town or from the verger) has recently been restored with great care. The Nave, the longest Gothic nave in the world, shows a curious inter- mixture of the Norman, E. E., and Dec. styles: and the change of tlie pitch of the vaulting in the S. aisle has a singular eflect. The '\Slained Glass Windoios in the N. aisle date from the 15th century. In the N. Tican- SEPT some traces of old fresco-painting have been discovered, and tlie ceiling of the Choir is also coloured. The Screen behind the altar in tli-- presbytery is of very fine mediajval workmanship, and has lately l-een restored and fitted with statues. Many of the chantries, or mortuary chapels of the abbots, and other monuments deserve attention. The splendid brass of Abbot de la Mare is best seen from the nislc to tlie S. of the Presbytery. In the Saints Chapel are the t(.mb of Duke Humiilir.v of Gloucester (d. 1447), brother of Henry V., and the shrine of St. Alt.an. A door at the N. end of the transept leads to the Tower, the top ot which commands a magnificent 'View. The Gate^ the only remnant of the conventual buildings of the abbey, stands to the W. of the church. It is a good apee.imen of the Perp. style. It wasformerly used asa gaol, and is nuw a school. About 3/4 M. to the W. of the abbey stands the ancient Church i. aisle, is the monument of Princess Charlotte, designed by Wyatl. — i »»« richlv-adorned -Choir contains the stalls of the.Knii:ht.s of the Oartcr. Bakdeker. London. 7th Kdit. i^n 338 40. WINDSOR. with their coats-of-arms and banners. At the E. end, above the altar, is a fine stained-glass window to the memory of Prince Albert, erected from designs by Sir G. G. Scott. The reredos below the window, sculptur- ed in alabaster marble, is very fine. The subjects are the Ascension, Christ appearing to his Disciples, and Christ meeting Mary in the Gar- den. To the left, adjoining the altar, is the monument of Edward IV., consisting of an iron gate between two battlemented towers, and said to have been executed by the Antwerp painter Quintin Matsys. Among the numerous other monuments in the chapel we may mention the plain marble tombstone of Henry VI. and the handsome monument erected by Queen Victoria to her aunt, the Duchess of Gloucester (d. 1857), both in the S. part of the retro-choir, and the statue of Earl Harcourt (d. 1830), on the N. side of the retro-choir. The vault in the middle of the choir contains the remains of Henry VIII., his wife .Jane Seymour, and Char- les I. — A subterranean passage leads from the altar to the royal Tomb- house under the Albert Chapel, situated on the E. side of St. George's Chapel, in which repose George III., George IV.. WiUiam IV., and other royal personages. (Divine service, etc.. see p. 337.) The *Albert Chapel (PI. 7), adjoining St. George's Chapel on the E. , was originally erected by Henry VII. as a mausoleum for himself ; but, on his ultimate preference of Westminster, it was transferred for a similar use to Cardinal Wolsey. On the fall of that prelate it reverted to the Crown, and was subsequently fitted up by James II. as a Koman Catholic chapel. An indignant mob, however, broke the windows and otherwise defaced it, and 'Wolsey's Chapel', as it was called, was doomed to a century of dilapidation and neglect, after which George III. constructed the royal tomb-house beneath it. Queen Victoria then undertook the restoration of the chapel in honour of her deceased husband, Prince Albert, and has made it a truly royal and sumptuous memorial. The interior, beautified with coloured marble, mosaics, sculpture, stained glass, precious stones, and gilding, in extraordinary profusion and richness, must certainly be numbered among the finest works of its kind in the world, though, it must be owned, rather out of harmony with the Gothic architecture of the building. The ceiling, which re- sembles in form that of St. George's Chapel, is composed of Venetian enamel mosaics, representing in the nave, angels bearing devices relating to the Prince Consort; in the chancel, angels with shields symbolical of the Passion. The false window at the W. end is of similar workman- ship, and bears representations of illustrious personages connected with St. George's Chapel. At the sides of the W. entrance are two marble figures — the Angels of Life and Death. The walls are decorated with a series of pictures of scriptural subjects inlaid with coloured marbles, by Triqueti. in which 28 diflerent kinds of marble have been introduced. Above each scene is a white marble medallion of a member of the royal family, by Miss Susan Durante while between them are basreliefs, emble- matical of the virtues. Round the edges of the pictures are smaller re- liefs in white and red marble, and other ornamentation. Below the marble pictures is a dark green marble bench; and the floor, which is very handsome, is also of coloured marbles. Most of the modern stained- glass windows exhibit ancestors of the Prince Consort; those in the chancel are filled with scriptural subjects. The reliefs of the reredos, which was designed by Sir G. G. Scott, and is inlaid with coloured marble, malachite, porphyry, lapis lazuli, and alabaster, have for their subject the Resurrection. In the centre of the nave stands the 'Cenotaph of the Prince, by Triqueti, consisting of a handsome sarcophagus, en- riched with reliefs, bearing the recumbent figure of Prince Albert in white marble. The restoration was superintended by Sir G. G. Scott, the architect. !Near th/ W. door is a cenotaph with a recumbent figure, hi W 40. WINDSOR. XW) in white marblo of the Duke of Albany (d. |sR4), in lh«- dr.-M« .,f ih.. Seaforth Highlanders. The mosaics wfr.« e.xcL-ut.'d hv SaUiali The len-th oi the chapel is GS ft., its breadth 2S ft., a„d itd h.ighl (;f Dogs (left; p. 128), Blackw(dl Station [\ⅈ p. 301), East India Docks (left; p. 128), Victoria Docks (left; p. 128), Woobririi, with its dock-yard and arsenal (right; p. 304), \orth Woolirich (left). Just above London Bridge we cross the Cilii of London Sub- way (p. 120), below the Custom House we cross the Toxrer Suhway (p. 126), and by the Surrey Docks we pass over the Thames Tunnel (p. 127). The different docks are frequented by dilTercnt classes of vessels. Thus in the London Docks we see ships bound for the Cape, the Mediterranean, India, and China. Most of the ships in the Commercial Docks are engaged in the timber trade with Swe- den and Norway. The Victoria Docks are devoted to steamships plying to America and the Black Sea. The West India Docks contain the stately merchantmen wliich bring the wealth of the West Indies to this country, while the East India Docks are lUled with merchant and passenger vessels sailing between England and India, China, Australia, and New Zealand. The banks of the Tliames below Woolwich are very flat ami marshy, recalling the appearance of a Dutch landscape. Shortly after leaving Woolwich, we enter a part of the river called Barking Reach ^ where, at Barking Creek on the N., and Crossness on the S. bank, are situated the outlets of London's new and gigantic system of drainage. The pumping-house at Crossness is a building of some architectural merit, with an Italian tower (visitors ailinitti-d on application at the offline). Passing through Halfway Reach and Erith Reach^ with Erith Marshes on our right, we next arrive at — R. Erith^ a village pleasantly situated at the base of a woodeil hill, with a picturesque, ivy-clad, old church. — On the opposite bank of the river, 2 M. lower down, lies — L. Purfleet (Royal Hotel, tish-dinners), the seat of large (Jov- ernment powder magazines, capable of containing 60,000 barrels of powder. Opposite is the mouth of the small river Darent. Tho training-ship Cornwall is moored in the Thames at rurflei-t. — Three miles below Purfleet, on the same side, is — L. West Thurrock (Old Ship), with the Saxon church of St. Clement, one of the most ancient in England. There are still somr remains of an old monastery. The Essex b.mk here fornis a sharp promontory, immediately opposite wiii.-h . in a fornspnu.liue in- dentation, lies — 344 41. THE THAMES. R. Greenhithe (Pier; White Hart), a pretty little place, with a number of villas. Some training-sMps lie in the river here, and it is also a yachting station. A little way inland is Stone Church, supposed to have been built by the architect of Westminster Abbey, and restored by Mr. Street; it contains some fine stone-carving and old brasses. Just beyond Greenhithe the eye is attracted by the conspicuous white mansion of Ingress Abbey, at one time occupied by the father of Sir Henry Havelock. — Then — L. Grays Thurrock, near which are some curious caves. — Next, 3 M. lower, — R. Northfleet, with chalk-pits, cement factories, and a fine old church containing some monuments and a carved oak rood-screen of the 14th century. Northfleet also possesses a college for indigent ladies and gentlemen, and a working-man's club, the latter a large red and white brick building. An electric tramway runs, between 2 and 11 p.m., from Northfleet station (S. E. R.) to the top of North- fleet Hill (Irf.), where it connects with a horse-tramway to Rosher- ville and Gravesend (through-fare 2d.). We now observe , on the Essex bank, opposite Gravesend, the low bastions of — L. Tilbury Fort , originally constructed by Henry YIH. to defend the mouth of the Thames, and since extended and strength- ened. It was here that Queen Elizabeth assembled and reviewed her troops in anticipation of the attack of the Armada (1588), appearing in helmet and corslet, and using the bold and well- known words : 'I know I have the body of a weak, feeble woman, but I have the heart and stomach of a king, and of a king of Eng- land too !' The large docks at Tilbury (Tilbury Grand Hotel) were opened in 1886. R. Gravesend^ see below. B. London to Gravesend by rail. On quitting London Bridge station the train first traverses the busy manufacturing districts of Bermondsey and Rotherhithe ; in the churchyard of the latter is buried Prince Lee Boo (d. 1784), son of the king of the Pellew Islands, who in 1783 treated the ship- wrecked crew of the Antelope with great kindness. The train then stops at (3 M.) New Cross, St. John's, and (6M.) Lewisham Junction. It next passes through a tunnel, about 1 M. in length, and arrives at (7 xM.) Blackheath (p. 304). Then (9 M.) Charlton, close to the station of which is the old manor-house of the same name. We next pass through two tunnels , and reach (10 M.) Woolwich Dockyard, followed immediately by Woolwich Arsenal. — 111/4 M. Plumstead, with Plumstead Marshes on the left. — 13 M. Abbey Wood, a small village of recent origin, witli pleasant surroundings, and some scanty remains of Lesnes Abbey , an Augustinian foun- dation of the 12th caJitury. — Close to (14 M.) Belvedere lies caJi 41. GRAVESEND. IMT) Belvedere House, the seat of Lord Sayes. — (ir)'^ M. ) Frith, gee p. 343. The train crosses tlie river Cray, and rcaiihes — 17 M. Dartford (Bull; Victorii)^ a b\isy town of 11,000 inhah., with a large paper-mill, a machine and engine fartory, a gunpowder factory, and the City of London Lunatic Asylum. 'I'Im- llrsi paper mill in England was erected here at the end of the 16th century. Foolscap paper takes its name from the crest ( a fool's cap) of the founder, whose tomb is in the church. Dartford was tlie abode of the rebel Wat Tyler (p. 96). Another route from London to Dartford pas.ses the interestinf; littlo town of (9 M.) Eltham (Greyhotind; Chequers)^ prettily situated aiiinnn trees, with the villas of numerous London merLbants. Alxiut • 4 M. 1« the N. of the station lie the remains of Eltham Palace^ a favourite ruval residence from Henry IH. (1216-72) to Henry VUI. (1509-1547j. »^u-.n Elizabeth often lived here in her childhood. The palace is popularly known as King John's Barn, perhaps Viecause the kini^ has been confounded with John of Eltham, son of Edward H. , who was burn here. I'art of the old moat surrounding the palace is still tilled with water, and \\ e cross it by a picturesque old bridge. Almost the only relic of the build- ing is the line ' Banqueting Hull (key kept in the adjacent lodge), somu- what resembling Crosby Hall in London in general style and dating like it from the reign of Edward IV. {i4Gl-!^3j. The hall was long used as a barn, and some of its windows are still bricked up. The Roof is of chest- nut. Adjoining the hall on the left is the Court House ^ a picturesque gabled building, formerly the buttery of the Palace. There were originally three Parks attached to Kltham Palace, one ttf which, the Middle Park, has attained some celebrity in modern days as the home of the Blenkiron stud of race-horses, which prodticed tlie Ih-rby winners, Oladiateur and Blair Athole. The Great Park has l>een buih over. — The Church of Eltham was rebuilt in 1874; in the cburrliyard are buried Bishop Home fd. 1792j, the commentator on the Psalms, and Doggett^ the comedian, founder of 'Uoggetts Coat and Badge' (p. I7l. ya« i'ycA was assigned summer-quarters at Eltham during his stay in Eng- land (1632-41J, probably in the palace. A visit to Eltham may be conveniently combined with one to (!ri .11 wich (p. 301j, which is reached by a pleasant walk of 4 M. acro.ss P.l.i. k heath (p. 304) and Greenwich Park; or to Woolwich (also 4 M.». ra.li. .1 via Shooter's Hill (p. 305). Another pleasant walk may be taken to (3 M.) Ghiselhitrst. Beyond Dartford we cross the Darent, pass ("20 M \ (;r>,nl.>il,f (p. 345) and Northfleet (^p. 344), and reach — 24 M. Gravesend. Gravesend ( Clarendon Hotel ; Old Falcon ; Nerr Falmn ; Xflsnn), a town with '25,000 inhab., lying on the S. bank of the 'i'haines. at the head of its estuary, has greatly increased in size in recent years, and is much resorted to by pleasure-seekers from London. The newer parts of the town are well built, but the streets in the lower quarter are narrow and crooked. Gravesend possesses two good piers. Dn the W. side, towards Northfleet, are Rosherville (iardrm {see p. 44 ). a favourite resort, where music, dancing, archery, and otlier amusements find numerous votaries. The parish-ehiirch wa.s built in the reign of yueen Anne, on tlie site of an earlier chur.'li which had been burned down in 15'20. Hocahonta^l(d. 1617). the In.ii.in "T 346 41. ROCHESTER. princess who married Jolin Rolfe , is interred in the chancel (see Doyle's 'English in America', 1882). Windmill Hill, at the hack of the town, now almost covered ^vith the buildings of the increasing suhiirbs , commands a fine view of the Thames , Shooter's Hill (p. 305), London, with the hills of Highgate and Hampstead beyond, and (to the S.) over the county of Kent, with Cobham Hall (see below) and Springhead as conspicuous points. Pleasant excursion to ''Cobha?n Hall, the seat of the Earl of Darnley, in the midst of a magnificent park (fine rhododendrons, in bloom in June), 7 M. in circumference, lying about 4M. to the S. of Gravesend. (Tickets of admission to the house, which is open to visitors on Fridays from 11 to 4 only, may be obtained at CaddeFs Library, King Street, Gravesend, and High Street, Rochester, price Is. ; the proceeds are devoted to chari- table purposes.) The central portion of this handsome mansion was built by Inigo Jones (d. 1653) ; the wings date from the 16th century. The interior was restored during the present century. The fine collection of pictures includes a 'Portrait of Ariosto and *Europa and the Bull by Titian, 'Tomyris with the head of Cyrus hy Rubens, and examples of Van Dyck, Lely, Knellev, and other masters. — The Parish Church of Cobham contains some fine old brasses. The pedestrian may extend his walk, through the famed woods of Cobham Park, and down the valley of the Medway, to Strood , a suburb of Rochester, a walk of about 7 M. in all from Gravesend. — The direct road from (Jravesend to (6 M.) Rochester runs via '-Gadshill and the old village of Chalk. Gadshill, which commands a splendid view, is famous as the scene assigned by Shakspeare to the encounter of Sir John Falstaff with the 'men in buckram", commemorated by an inn bearing the name of the worthy knight. Nearly opposite is the picturesque house in which Charles Dickens resided, and where he died in 1870 (comp. Baedeker's Great Britain). The railway from Gravesend to (7 M.) Strood passes only one station, called Higham, S^/o M. from which is Cowling Castle, built in the time of Richard II., and no w^ a picturesque ruin. Beyond Higham the train penetrates a tunnel, II/4 M. in length, and enters the station of Strood, a suburb of Rochester, on the opposite bank of the river Medway. Some of the North Kent trains go no farther in this direction , but others cross the Medway, and proceed to Rochester and Chatham, which practically form one town, surround- ed by fortifications defending the entrance to the river. Rochester (Crown; Victoria ^- Bull; King's Head) , to the N. of Chatham, a very ancient city, with a pop. of 21,590, a flue Norman Castle, and an interesting Cathedral, is described at length in Baedeker's Great Britain. Chatham (Sun; Mitre), with 46,806 inhab., on the E. bank -of the Medway, below Rochester, is one of the chief naval arsenals and military stations in Great Britain. See Baedeker s Oreat Britain. INDEX. Ahbey Wood 344. Abney Park Cemotci-v 294. Academy of Arts, Royal 45. 221. — of Music, Roval 224. 'Achilles' Statue 260. Acton 334. 37. 34. Addison Road 37. Addresses 71. Adelphi Theatre 41. 144. Admiralty 183. Agricultural Hall 43. 45. Albany, The 222. Albert Embankment 114. 297. — Hall 43. 270. — Memorial 270. — Palace 43. 299. — Statues of Prince 94. 105. 270. — Suspension Bridge 294. 299. AldersgateSt.St.at.36.98. Aldgate Station 36. 107. Aldridge's 27. Ale 12. Alexandra House 271. — Palace 329. 43. — Park 33. Alhambra Theatre 43. 223. Allan Wesleyan Library 98. 17. All Hallows, Barking, Church of 125. All Hallows, Stainini: Tower of 107. All Saints' Church 225. All Souls' Church 225. Almack's 43. 220. Alsatia 135. Ambresbury Bank 330. American Banks 50. — Exchansre 50. — Newspapers 18. — Reading-rooms 17. Amusements 43. Amwell 331. Angling 47. Antu!, Statue off^ucen 82. Aiiticjuarian Society 222. Apothecaries' Hall 115. Apsley House 267. 260. Aquarium, Royal 44. 218 Aquatics 48. Arcade, the Royal 26. Archery Society 229. Architectural Museum 217. Argyll Lodge 263. Armourers' Hall 102. Army and Navy Club 74. 219. Stores 27. Arrival 5. Art Collections , Private 264-269. Arthur's Club 220. 74. Artillery Barracks(Wool- wichj 304. Artillery Company, Hon. 98. Art-Needlework, School of 272. Arts, Society of 144. Ascot Races 46. 342. Ashford 336. Astronomical Society222. Athenaeum Club 219. Athletic Sports 47. Aucticms 71. Audit Oflice 143. Austin Friars 104. Avenue Theatre 42. Badminton Club 220. 74. Baker Street Bazaar 26. Station 36. 229. Balham 34. Baltimore to Liverpool 3. Bank of England 103. — , National Provincial 106. — , Coutts's 146. Bankers 50. Bankers' Clearing House 104. Banknotes I. Baptist Chapels 51. I'arber-Siirgeons' Court Ro.un 91. Barclay's Brewerv 296. Harkin- h'cach 343. Barnard's Inn 94. 139. Barnes 325. — Elms 325. Barnet 332. 33. Barnsbury 34. Bartholomew Fair 26. Bath House 268. Baths 18. Battersea Bridge 294. — Park 29. 34. Station 29^1. Rf.ad Station 299. Baynard's Castle 115. Bayswater 200. — Station 37. Bazaars 26. Beaconsfield 336. — , Statue of Lord VSl. Beckenham 33. 31. Bedford 4. — Coffee House 180. — Square 226. — , Statue of the Hukc' of 226. Beefsteak Club 180. Beer 12. Belgravia 291. Bcllot, Statue of Lieut. 302. Belvedere 34 i. Bennet's IHll. St. 116. Bcntinck's Statue 22L Bentley Priory 32. Berkeley Square 22"). Bcrmondsev 67. 3-Vl. 'i\. Bethlehem "iioRi.itjil 'iOs Bcthnal Green 67. 32tt. 33. Museam 128. Bible Society, RrilUh and Foreign IIG. Bicycling i-*^. Itilliard Rooms 16. Billiii'^sualc 26. IlL 15. r.K-ag.' Walk 256. rmiugham 4. f 348 INDEX. Bishopsgate Station 36. 329. Bishop's Road 37. — Wood 328. Blackfriars Bridge 112. Station 113. — Metrop. Railw. Sta tion 37. 115. Blackheatli 304. 344. 33, Blackwall 128. 301. Bloomsburv Square 226 Blue Coat School 91. Board of Trade 183. Works 69. Boarding Houses 10. Boating 48. 323. Boat Races 48. Bodegas 12. Bolt Court 135. Bond Street 225. Boodle's Club 1 220. 74. Books on London 80 b. Borough, the 295. 109. Boston to Liverpool 3. — to Queenstown 3. Botanic Gardens 232. Botanical Society 229. Bow Church 102. — Station 34. — StreetPolice Court 179. Boxing 48. Brandenburgh House325. Breakfast 6. Brentford 323. 325. 334. Bridewell 115. Bridgewater House 265. Britannia Theatre 42. British Museum 233: Anglo-Roman and Anglo-Saxon Rooms 252. AssjTian Gallery 245. Bronze Room 250. Coin Rooms 250. Egypt. Antiquities 247. Elgin Room 241. Etruscan Room 251. Hellenic Room 243. King's Library 236. Library 235. 255. Manuscripts 235. Medal Room 251. Mediaeval Room 253. Print Room 253. 236. Reading Room 254. Sculpture Gallery 238. Vase Rooms 250." Brixton 34. Broad Sanctuary 217. Broad St. Stat. 34. Bromlev 33. 34. Brompton Oratory 291. | — Station 37. 34. / Brondesbury 37. 34. Brooks' Club 74. 22<:). Brook Street 225. Broxbourne 330. Brunei's Statue 113. Buckhurst Hill 329. 330 Buckingham Palace 257, Bunhill Fields Cemetery 98. Burgoyne's Statue 219. Burlington Arcade 26. 220 — House 220. Burnham Beeches 335. Burns's Statue 113. Bushv Park 321. Byron's Statue 261. Cabs 28. 6. Caen Wood 328. Cafes 16. 15. Camberwell 34. Cambridge Hall of Va- rieties 44. Camden Road 332. 33. — Town 227. 34. Campbell , Statue of Co- lin 219. Canada 2. Canning's Statue 192. Cannon Street 116. Station 33. 117. Metrop. Station 37 117. Canonburv 34. — Tower" 227. Canterbury Hall 43. Carlton Club 74. 219. — House Terrace 256.219. Carlyle's Statue 294. Castelnau 325. Castle Hill 334. Catholic Apostolic Churches 227. 51. Cattle Market 27. Cavendish Square 224. Cemeteries: Abnev Park 294. Bunhill Fields 98. Highsate 328. Kensal Green 294. Norwood 294. St. George's, Hanover Sq. 263. Central Crim. Court 93. Central House for Xurses for the Poor 232. Central London Meat Market 96. 26. Chalk 346. Chalk Farm Station 229, 34. Chancellor of the Ex- chequer's Office 183. Chancery, /Court of 139. Chancery Lane 67. 136. 135. Channel, Passage of the 5. Chapels, Baptist 51. — , Coagregationalist 51. — , Independent 51. — , Methodist 51. — , Swedenborgian 51. — , Unitarian 52. Charing Cross 147. Bridge 145. Hospital 145. Road 147. Station 33. 145. Metrop. Railw. Station 37. 145. Charities 72. Charles l.'s Statue 147. Charles II., Statues of 104. 292. Charlton 344. Charterhouse 97. Chatham 346. Cheapside 101. Chelsea 68. 292. 34. — Botanic Gardens 293. — Bridge 299. — Embankment 114. 294. — Hospital 292. — Old Church 293. — Suspension Bridge 292. Chemical Society 222. Chesham 37. 332. Cheshunt 330. Chester 4. Chesterfield House 225. Child's Bank 140. — Hill 332. Chiltern Green 334. Chingford 329. Chipping Barnet 332. Chiselhurst 345. Chiswick 325. Christchurch 299. Christie and Manson's Auction Rooms 220. Christ's Hospital 91. Churches 50: All Hallows, Barking 125. Staining 107. — Saints' 225. — Souls' 225. Bow 101. Brompton Oratory 291. Catholic Apostolic 227. 51. Christchurch 299. City Temple 93. Dutch 104. Ely Chapel 94. Foreign 52. INDEX. :mo Churches : Hanover Chapel 224. Irvin^ite 51. 227. Marylehone 225.. Presbyterian 52. Roman Catholic 52. St. Alphage'-s 96. — Andrew's 93. Undershaft 107. — Bartholomew's 95. — Bride's 134. — Catherine Cree's 107 — Clement Danes 141 — Dunstan's in the West 135. — Etheldreda'a 52. 94. — George's 224. Cathedral 299- — Giles, Cripplegate 96. in the Fields 226. — Helen's 106. — James's 222. , Curtain St. 9S. — John's 97. — Jude's 108. — Luke's , Chelsea 293. — JIagnus the Martvr's 111. — Margaret's 191. — Martin's in the Fields 146. — Marv le Bow 101. le Strand 142. Undercroft 191. Woolnoth 109. the Virgin 226. — Mary's 136. , Battersea 299. — Michael's 107. — Olave's 108. — Pan eras' 227. , ( Hd 227. — Paul's Cathedral 81. , Gov. Card. 180. — Peter's 107. — Saviour's 295. — Sepulchre's 93. — Stephen's 102. — Swithin's 117. Savoy 144. Temple 136. Trinity 108. Cigars 2. 21. Circulating Libraries 17. Circus 44. City, The 68. 81. — Companies 69. — of London School 114. — of London andSouth- wark Subway 126. — and Guilds of London Institute 73. 272. Cify Temple 93. Civil Service Supply As- sociation 27. 144. Clapham Junction 315.34. Clapton 33. Clarence House 256. Clearing House, Bankers' 104. Clement's Inn 139. 141. Cleopatra's Needle 114. Clerkenwell 67. 98. Clothworkers' Hall 108. Clubs 73. Coaches 32. Coaching Club 261. Coal Exchange 112. Coals 69. 112. Cobham Hall 346. Cocoa Tree Club 220. Coffee-houses 16. College of Arms 116. — of Music, Royal 271. — of Physicians, Roval 147. — of Surgeons, Royal 177. Colne, the 334. Colney Hatch 299. Colonial Institute 75. — OUice 184. Columbia Market 27. Comedy Theatre 42. Commerce of Lr)ndon 69. Commercial I>ocks 128. Commissionnaires 55. Concerts 43. Confectioners 16. Congregational Memorial Hall 134. Congregationalist Chapels 51. Conservative Club 74. 220. , National 218. 75. Constitution Hill 259. Constitutional Club 147. 74. Consulates 49. Cookery, School of 272. Cooinbe House 316. — -Maiden 316. Co-operative System 27. — Working-Societies 28. Cooper's Hill 336. Corn Exchange 108. Comhill 107. Corporation Art Gallerv 100. County Council, London 69. " — Lunatic Asylum 334 Court Theatre, Royal 4lll Coutts'fl Bank 145. Covent fJardcn Market 26. 1»0. Theatre iO. 179. Coventry Street 223. Cowling Castle 346. Crane Court llio. Craven St. 145. Cremorne Gardens 204. Crewe 4. Cricket 47. Crimean Monument 218. Criminal Court, Ccn. 93. Criterii.n Theatre 41. Crockford's 23K Cromwell IJoad '276. Crosby Hall 1U6. Crown Jewels 122. Croydon 34. 46. Crystal Palace 43. SflS. 34. Cumberland, Statue of the Duke of 224. Curtain Theatre 9S. Custom House 2. 112. Cycling 48. Dalston R'6. 134. 3*21. 34. 329. Dartford 33. 346. Datchet 336. Denmark Hill 34. Deptford 6S. 27. 301. 33. — Road 36. Derby 4. -. the 46. — ; Statue of Lord 192. Devonshire Club 22i.t. 74. — House 269. Diary 80. Dinner 12. parties 71. Directories 71. Disposition of Tinif "s. Dives' Flour Mills 299. Divine Service bO. Docks 126. Doctors' Commons 116. Doggett'sCoat and Badge 4.S. 345. Dorchester Hou.«e 26S. Dorc Gallery 45. 226. Dorking 32. Doultons Pottery Worki 299. Dover to Calais 5. — to Ostend 5. Downing ."street IS3. Drainage Sy.sl.-m 7U. Drapers' Cnrdcn ll4. — Hall lOl. Drawing Rooms 266. 350 INDEX. Drury Lane Theatre 40. 142. 180. Dudley Gallery 45. — House 266. Duke of York's School 292. Dulwich 312. 34. — College 312. — Gallery 312. Dunstable 334. Dutch Church 104. Ealing 334. 37. Earl's Court 37. East End 67. — India Co.'s House 107 Docks I'JS. Museum 184, 289. — Sheen 322. Edgware 332. 33. — Road 225. — Station 37. Education Office 183. Eel Pie Island 326. Egham 336. Egyptian Hall 44. 220. Eleanor's Cross 145. y Elephant and Castle 29. 78. 299. Elephant and Castle Market 27. Theatre 42. Elephant Tavern 107. Elizabeth, Statues of Queen 104. Elstree 332. Eltham 345. Ely Chapel 94. ^ Place 93. Embankment Gardens 113. 145. Embassies 49. Empire Theatre 223. 43 Entertainments 39. Epping Forest 330. 33. Epsom 316. 46. Erith 33. 343. 345. Ethical Societies 52. Eton 341. Euston9Sq. Stat. 33. 227, Evans's ISO. Exchange, Royal 104. Exeter Hall 143. Exhibition Galleries 288, Exhibitions of Pictures 45. Expenses 1. Farringdon St. Market 27. Station 36. 94. Feltham 336. Fenchurch St. 107. Fenchurch St. Stat. 34. 108. Fetter Lane 135. FinchleyKoad 37. 332.34. Finsburv 68. — Technical College 272. Fire Brigade 70. 296. Fishing 47. Fish Markets 26. 96. 111. Fishmongers' Hall 111. Flaxman Museum 227. Fleet Brook 93. 134. — Prison 134. — Street 134. Floral Hall 179. Flower Market 26. 180. — Shows 232. Flushing to Amsterdam 5. Flys 28. Folkestone to Boulogne 5. Foreign Cattle Market 27. — Churches 52. — Office 184. Foresters' Hall 43. Forest Hill 35. Foundling Hospital 228. Four-in-hand Club 261. Fox-hunting 47. Fox's Statue 226. Franklin's Statue 219. Frere'sfSirBartle) Stat Lie 113. French Hospice 134. Friends' Meeting Houses 51. Fruit Market 26. 180. Fulham 324. Gadshill 346. Gaiety Theatre 41. 143. Gallery, National 147. — , National Portrait 129. Galleries, Picture 45 264- 269. Games 47. Gardens, Botanic 232. — , Chelsea Botanic 293. — , Public 43. — , Zoological 229. Garrick Club 180. 74. — Theatre 41. Gas-lighting 66. 68. Gates of London, Old 63. General Hints 71. Geographical Society 222. Geological Museum 222. — Society 222. George Lane 329. George II., Statue of 302, George III., Statues of ^ 99. 218. 143. I f George IV.'s Statue 146.! German Hospital 106. 72. — Reed's Elntertainment 44. Gipsy Hill 34. Glasgow 3. Globe Theatre 41. 141. Gloucester 4. — Road Station 37. Goldsmiths' Hall 100. Gordon's Statue 146. Gore House 271. Gorhambury House 334. Gospel Oak 34. 329. Gough Sq. 135. Government Offices 183. 184. Gower Street 226. Station 36. 227. Grand Theatre 42. 227. Grantham 5. Gravesend 33. 345. Gray's Inn 139. — Thurrock 344. Great Eastern Railway Market 27. — Fire 65. 81. 110. Greenhithe 344. Green Park 259, Arch 260. Greenwich 68. 301. — Hospital 301. — Park 303. — Railway 33, Gresham College 100. Grill Rooms 12. Grocers' Hall 102. Grosvenor Gallery 45, — House 264. — Square 225. Grub Street 96. Guards' Club 74. 220. Guildford 32. Guildhall 98. — Library 99. — Museum 100. — School of Music 114. Guilds 72. Gunnersbury 37. 34. Guy's Hospital 296. Gymnastics 47, 48. Hacknev 68. 134. 33. 34. 329. 233. Haggerston 134. 34. Hainault Forest 330. Halfway Reach 343. Halifax to Liverpool 4. Ham Common 326. — House 326. Hammersmith 325. 37, 34, Hampstead 327. 68. — Heath 327. 34. Hampton Court 316. 34 326. — Wick 326. Hanover Chapel 224. — Square 224. Hansdm.s 28. Hanwell 334. 299. Harcourt House 22't. Harpenden 334. Harrow 332. 37. Hartshorn Lane 147. Harwich to Antwerp 5. — to Hamlntrg 5. — to Rotterdam 5. Hatfield 332. Havelock\s Statne 146. Haverstock Hill 332. 33. Hayes 334. Havmarket 218. — Theatre 40. 218. Hendon 332. 33. Hengler\s Circus 44. Henley Regatta 48. Henry VIII. 's Statue 94. Heralds' College 116. Herbert of Lea, Statue of Lord 219. Her Majesty's Theatre 40. 218. Hereford 4. Heme Hill 34. Heme's Oak 341. Hertford 331. — House 268. Higham 340. Hi-h Beech 330. Highbury 227. 34. Hisih-rate 32S. 33. High Holborn 228. Hill's (Rowland) Statue 105. Hints, General 71. Historical Sketch of England 57. of London 62. Holborn 9i. 228. — Viaduct 93. Station 34. 93. Holland House 203. Hollowav 227. — College 33',!. Holly Lodge 263. Holy 'Well 142. Home Office 184. Homerton 134. 34. Honor Oak :i4. Hornsey 329. 33. Horse Guards 183. — Markets 27. — Races 46. Horticultural Society 271. INDKX. Hospice for French Pr* testants 134. Hospitals 72. Hotels 6. Houndsditch 67. Iu8. Hounslow 35. Houses of Parliament 184. Hughenden 335. Humane Society, Roval 146. 262. Hungerford Market 145. Hunting 47. Ilu.'^kissons Statue 105. Hyde Park 269. Hyde Park Corner 260. Imperial Institute 272. Theatre 42. Independent Chapels 51. India Museum 289 — Office 184. Ingress Abbey 344. Inland RevenueOf(iceI43. Inns of Chancery 139. 94. — of Court 67. 136. International E.xhibition 272. — Hall 43. Ironmongers' Hall 107. IrvingiteChurches227.51 Isle of Dogs 12S. Isleworth 325. 34. Islington 227. 34. Italian Opera. Royal 40 179. 351 Kenti.shTown;^27.33.3J. Kew''322. 32;'). — Uotanic (Jarden.-! .3?J — Kridge.Stalinn322.3^» — n Thaincsi 326. 34. King Street 192. King William Street 1(J9. Kit-Cat Portraits 326. 331 . James II. 's Statue 181. .lenner's Statue 262. .lewish Synagogues 51. Jevyry. Old 102. Junior Athenaum Clul 220. 74. - Army and Xavy Club 220. 74. ■ Carlton Club 219. 74 United Service Club 224. 74. Justice, Royal Courts of Kempton Park Races 46. Kennel Club 74. Kennington Oval 292. 47. Kensal Green 34. - Cem. 294. 332. Kensington Gardens 262. (tore 271. — High Street Station 37. a4. Museum 275. — Palace 262. ( Ladies' Mile 261. Lady Guide Association 55. Lambeth 66. 297. Bridge 297. - Palace 297. 17. Langley 334. Lansdowne Hou.se 'iiu. Latimer Hoad 37. Law Courts, N.w 141. Lawn Tennis 4S. Lawrences (Lord) Statue 219. Lea, The 47. 330. Lcadenhall Market 27. I(r7. Street 107. Leathersellers' Hall K*. Leicester Square 2*23. Lesnes Abl>ev 344. Levees 250. ' Lewisham 3-14. 68. 33. Leyton 329. Leytimstone 3*29. Libraries 17. Life Boat Institution 144. Lincoln's Inn 14S. Linna^an Socii-ty 222. Liverpool to London 4. Liverpool Street Station as. Llovds Kft. Lodgings 10. Lombard Street I(r7. London Bridge KO. 33. — SUitb.n ;«. , Chattiani. and Uovcr Railway Bridn.- 113. County Oiuncil (>9. Cry.tui Palace 20. 226 Dook.-i 126. Institution Library 17. 352 INDEX. London Pavilion 43. — Stone 117. — University 222. — Wall 63. 96. London to Antwerp 5. — to Boulogne 5. — to Bremerha/en 5. — to Calais 5. — to Dover 5. — to Folkestone 5. — to Hamburg 5. — to Harwich 5. — to Newhaven 5. — to Ostend 5. — to Queenborough 5. — to Rotterdam 5. Long Shore 67. Lord Mayor's Shovs^ 71. Lord's Cricket Ground 47. 233. Lurdship Lane 34. Loughborough 34. Loughton 329. Lower Thames St. 109. 111. Lowther Arcade 26. 145. — Lodge 271. Ludgate Hill 115. Station 34. 115. Luton 334. Lyceum Theatre 40. 143. Lyric Theatre 41. Maiden Lane 180. Mall, The 256. Mansion House 102. Station 37. 117. Marble Arch 260. Marine Barracks (Wool wich) 304. Markets 26. Mark Lane 108. — — Station 36. 118. Marlborough Club 220. — Hou.se 220. — Road 37. 232. Marshalsea Gaol 297. Marylebone 68. 228. — Church 225. — Park 228. — Theatre 42. — Workhouse 233. Matlock 4. Mavfair 261. 291. Meat Market, Central 96. 26. Medical Examination Hall 113. Mercers' Hall 102. Merchant Taylors' Hall 105. School 97. Mermaid Tavern 101. Methodist Chapels 51. Metropolitan Board of Works 69. — Cattle Market 24. — Fire Brigade 296. 70. — Improvements 70. — Meat Market 26. 96. — Music Hall 44. — Police District 68. — Railwavs 36. Mews, Roval 259. Mildmav Park 34. Mile End Road 108. Military Academv(Wool- wich) 305. — Asylum 292. — Repository (Wool- wich) 305. Millbank Penitentiary 292 Mill Hill 332. Mill's Statue 113. Millwall Docks 128. Mincing Lane 107. Ministerial Offices 183. 184. Minories 67. 108. Mint, Royal 125. — Street 297. Missionary Society's Mu- seum, London 98. Mitre Court 135. Money 1. — Changers 50. — Order Office 90. Montague Hoiise 184. Monument, The 110. 109 — Station 38. 109. — , Crimean 218. Moore and Burgess Minstrels 44. Moorgate Station 36. Mortlake 325. Museum , Royal Archi- tectural 217. — . Bethnal Green 128. — ; British 233. — , Geological 222. — , Guildhall 100. — , India 289. — , London Missionary Society 98. — , Military (Woolwich) 305. — , Natural History 273, — . Naval (Greenwich) 303. — , Patent Office 288. — of Royal College of Surgeons 177. — , Soane 178. -, South Kensington 275. Museum, Surrev House 312. , United Service 182. usic Halls 43. — , Guildhall School of 114. , Roval Academy of 224. —, Royal College of 271. Musical Union 43. Muswell Hill 329. Napier's Statue 146. National Gallerv 147. — Liberal Club' 147. 74. — Portrait Gallery 129. — Provincial Bank 106. — School of Cookery 272. Natural History Museum 273. Naval and Military Club 220. 75. Naval Museum (Green- wich) 303. Naval School (Green- wich) 303. Neasden 37. Nelson's Column 145. New College 233. New Court 117. New Cross 344. 36. 33. New Gallery 45. Newgate Prison 92. — Street 91. Newhaven to Dieppe 5. Newmarket Races 46. New (Jxford Street 226. Newspapers 17. New Universitv Club 220. 75. New York to Glasgoic 3. 4. to Liverpool 2. 3. 4. to London 3. to Queenstown 3. to Southampton 3. New Zealand Chambers 107. Niagara, Panorama 45. Norbury 34. Northfleet 344. Northumberland House 146. Norwood 34. — Cemetery 294. Notting Hill 37. 294. Gate Station 37. Novelty Theatre 42. Oaks, the 46. Observatory. Roval 303. Old Ford 329. 33. — Jewry 102. Olympia 44. Olympic Theatre 42. 141. INDEX. 353 Omnibuses 29. Opera Comique 41. Opera House 40. 218. — , Royal Italian 40. 179. Ophthalmic Hospital 145. Oratory, the 291. Oriental Club 224. 75. Orleans House 326. Outram's Statue 113. Oxford 4. — House 108. — Music Hall 44. — Street 225. — and Cambridge Club 75. 220. Oyster Shops 15. Paddington Station 33. Palace of Westminster 184. Pall Mall 218. Palmerston's Statue 192 Panoramas 45. 311. 329 Panshanger 331. Pantheon 226. Panyer Alley 91. Parade, the 257. Paraxon Theatre of Va rieties 44. Parcels Companies 55. — Post 54. Park Street 297. Parliament, Houses of 184. Parliament Hill 327. Passports 2. Patent OfDce Museum 288. Paternoster Ptow 67. 90. Pavilion Theatre 42. Peabodv's Statue 105. Peckhain Rye 33. 34. Peel. Statues of Sir Ro bert 90. 192. Pembroke Lodge 3'22. Penge 35. People's Palace 1. 115. Queen'iorottgh to Flmhing 5. iueens Road Station 37. 24. — Tobacco Pipe 127. — Warehou8f 127. (^ueenstown 3. Races 40. Kackel.s 47. Hadl.-lt :W2. Haik'-s's Statue 113. Hailwavs 32. Raleigh' Clul) ilX. 75. I'.an.lagh. the '293. Iteading SiSj. Reading Rooms 17. Record Office 135. Reform Club 75. 219 Rej;alia r22. Regattas 48. Regent Circus 2*22. 224. — Street 224. Regent's Canal 128. — Park '228. Registrar-Generar.sOffice 143. Restaurants 11. 12. Richard Coeur de Lion's Statue 192. Richmond 321. 34. 37. Rickmansworth :^7. 3:^2. Rochester 33. 34. 340. Rolls Buildings 136 — Chapel 136. Roman Bath 142. — Catholic Churches 52. — Remains 63. Rosherville Gardens 44. 345. Kotherhithe 67. 344. 30. Kotten Row '261. Routes to and from Lon- don 2. Royal Academy 221. 45. — Aquarium 44. 218. — Architectural Mu.seum 217. — Colonial In.-stitute 70 — K.vchange lOJ. — Family 61. — (itographical Soci«-ty — Humane Society 140 — Insiiiulion 73. — Mew.H 259. — Military .\sylum "292. — Mint 12.5. — Oak 37. ;«4. \ Society m. 23 354 INDEX. Royalty Theatre 42. Rugby 4. Runnimede 336. Russell Square 226. Rye House 331. Sacred Harmonic Society 43. Saddlers' Hall 102. Sadler's Wells Theatre 42. St. Albans 332. 333. — Alphage's Church 96. — Andrew's Church 93. — Andrew's Undershaft 107. — Bartholomew's 95. Hospital 94. — Bride's 134. — Catherine Cree's 107. — Clement Danes 141. — Dunstan's 135. — Etheldreda'3 52. 94. — George's Cathedral 299. ■ Church 224. Club 224. Hall 43. — Giles, Cripplegate 96. in the Fields 226. — Helen's Church 106. — James's Church 222. , Curtain St. 98. Club 220. Hall 43. 223. Palace 255. 220. Park 256, Station 37. Square 219. Street 220. Theatre 40. 220. — John's 344. Church 97. Gate 97. Wood Road 37. 233. Stat. 229. — Jude's 108. — Katherine'sDocksl26 Hospital 232. — Magnus the Martyr's Church HI. — Margaret's Church 191. Station 331. — Martin's Church 146. — Mary le Bow 101. le Strand 142. Undercroft 191. the Virgin 226. Woolnoth 109. — Mary's Church 136. '-, Battersea 299. Station 36. — Michael's 107. I St. Olave's 108. — Pancras' 227. . Old 227. Station 33. 227. — Paul's Cathedral 81. Church 180. Churchyard 89. Station 34. 116. — Peter's 107. — Peter ad Vineula, Chapel of 123. — Peter's College 217. — Saviour's Church 295. — Sepulchre's 93. — Stephen's 102. — Swithin's Church 117. — Thomas's Hospital 297. Salters' Hall 117. Sanctuary, Broad 217. Sand own Races 46. Sanger's Amphitheatre 42. Savile Club 220. 75. Savoy Chapel 144. — Palace 144. — Theatre 41. 144. School Board, London 70. — , — Office of 113. — of Art Needlework 272. — of Cookery 272. Scotland Yard 183. Seamen's Hospital 301. Season 1. Serjeants' Inn 136. Serpentine 259. 261. Sevenoaks 32. Shadwell 36. 84. — Market 27. Shaftesbury Avenue 147. — Theatre 41. Shakspeare's Statue 223 Shepherd's Bush 32. 37. Shoe Lane 135. Shooter's Hill 305. Shops 19. Shoreditch 68. 106. 134. Siemens' Telegraphic Works 305. Sion College 17. 114. Sion House 323. Skinners' Hall 117. Sloane Square Station 37. Slough 334. Smithfield 26. 95. Snaresbrook 329. Snow Hill 342. Soane Museum 178. Societies 73. Society, Antiquarian 221. — Archery 229. — of Arts 144. 73. Society. Astronomical221. Chemical 221. Geographical 222. — Geological 221. Horticultural 271. Humane 146. 262. — Linnaean 221. — Royal 221. Soho Bazaar 26. 226. — Square 226. Somerset House 142. Southall 334. Southampton to London 5. South EasternRailway33. — Kensington Museum 275. Station 37. 275. — London Palace of Amusements 44. Southwark 66. 67. — Bridge 117. — Park 297. Spa Road 33. Spitalfields 67. Sports, Athletic 47. Spurgeon's Tabernacle 299. 51. Stafford House 265. Staines 336. Stamford Bridge 47. Standard Theatre 42. Staple Inn 94. 139. Stationers' Hall 90. Statistics 66. Statue of Achilles 260. — of Prince Albert 94. 270. 105. — of Queen Anne 82. — of Lord Beaconsfield 192. — ofi)ukeofBedford226. — of Lieut. Bellot 302. — of Lord Bentinck 224. — of Brunei 113. — of Burgoyne 219. — of Burns 113. — of Bvron 261. — of Colin Campbell 219. — of Canning 192. — of Carlyle 294. — of Charles I. 147. — of Charles II. 104.292. — of Duke of Cumber- land 224. — of Lord Derby 192. — of Queen Elizabeth 104. 135. — of Fox 226. — of Franklin 219. — of Sir Bartle Frere 113. — of George II. 302. — of George III. 99. 143. 218. INDEX. lififj Statue of George IV. 146. — of General Gordon 146. — of Havelock 146. — of Henry VIII. 94. — of Lord Herbert 219. — of Rowland Hill 105. — of Huskisson 105. — of James II. 181. — of Jenner 262. — (jf Lord Lawrence 219. — of J. S. Mill 113. — of Sir C. Napier 146. — of Nelson 146. — of Gen. Outram 113. — of Palmerston 192. — of Peabody 105. — of Sir R. Peel 90. 192. — of William Pitt 224. — of Roht. Raikes 113. — of Richard Coeur de Lion 192. — of Shakspeare 223. — of Geo. Stephenson 227. — of Tyndale 113. — of Queen Victoria 104. — ofWellingtonl05. 200. — of William III. 219. — of William IV. 109. — of Dake of York 219 Steel Yard 117. Steamboats 2. 38. Steinway Hall 43. Stephenson's Statue 227. Stepney 35. Stock Exchange lo4. Stockwell 34. Stoke Poges 335. Stone Church 344. Store Street Hall 43. Storey's Gate 257. Stout' 12. Strand 141. Strand Theatre 41. 142. Stratford (Essex) 329. 33. Strawberry Hill 326. 321. Streatham Hill 34. Strood 346. Subways 120. Sudbrook House 326. Surbibm 316. 326. Surgeons, College of 177. Surrey Docks 128. — House Museum 312. — Side 295. — Theatre 42. Sutherland House 265. Swedenborgian Chapels 51. Swimming Clubs 49. Swiss Cottage 37. 233. Sydenham 305. 34. Synagogues 51. Tabard Inn 297. Tabernacle, the 299. Tattersairs 27. Teddington 321. 326. T.'legraph OfGce 91. Telegraphs 54. Telephones 55. Temperance Hotels 10. Temple 136. — Bar 140. 330. — Church 136. — (iardens 137. — Station 37. Tennis 47. 48. Terminiis Hotels 7. Tcrrv\s Theatre 41. Thames, tlie 66. 3'23. etc. — Ditton 316. 320. — Embankment 70. 113. — Tunnel 127. Theatres 39. Theobalds Park 330. Thorney I.-^le 193. Thornton Heath 34. Tilbury Fort 344. 3:3. — Ducks 128. Time 2. Times Office 115. Tobacco 2. 21. — Dock 127. Toole's Theatre 41. Topography 66. Tottenham Court Road 226. Tower 117. — Bridge 112. — Hamlets 68. — Hill 124. — Subway 126. Toxopholite Society 229. Toynbee Hall IDS." Trafalgar S(|uare 145. Tramways 32. Trayellers' Club 75. 219. Treasury 183 Trinity Church 108. — College 73. 225. — House 124. Trocadero 43. Turf Club 2-20. 75. Turnham Green 37. Tussaud\s Waxwork Ex- hibition 44. 232. Twickenham 326. 35. Tyburn 229. Tvburnia 229. 291. Tyndale's Statue 113. Underground Railways 36. Union Club 75. 147. Unionist Club 75. '220 Unitarian Chapels 52. United Service Club 75, 218. Sluseum ISi. University Boat Race 48. 324. — Club 75. 218. — College 226. HospiUI 2'27. — Sports 47. Uxl. ridge 33J. — Road 37. Vaudeville Thcat. 41. 144. Vauxhall 315. 35. — Bridge 2112. Vegetable Market26. IHI. Vegetarian Restaurants 15. Verulamium 333, Veterinary College 227. Victoria and Albert Docks 12S. — ColVee Music Hall 43. — Embankment 113. — Park 133. Station I3.i. 31. — Railway Bridge 292. — Station' 33. 291. fMetrop.) 37. — , Statue of Queen lU4. Virginia Water 342. 3-2. Visits 71. Waltham .M.bev 330. — Cross 33(J. Walthamst-.w 329. Wand.sworth 324. 34. Wapping 127. 3k. The following is a list of distinguished persons menli.Micd in the Handbunk in connection with their Itirth, death, residence, hurial-plaro, and the like. It does not profess to give the names of architects and (ither artists where mentioned in connection with their works, nor docs it enumerate the subjects of the portraits in the National Portrait Gallery and elsewhere. Abercromby, Sir Ralph 86. Aberdeen, Earl of 197. Abernethy 95. Addison 97. 201. 2(J8. 210. 218. 263. 294. 327. Adelaide, Queen 220. Alton, Sir R-.bt. 207. Albert, Prince 270. 338. Aldrich 217. Allevne 312. 297. Andre 200. Andrews, Bp. 295. Anne, Queen 82. 208. 262. Anne of Denmark (wife of James I.) 142. Arbuthnnt 294. Argyll, Duke of 202. 226. Arundel, Earl of 123. 141. Ascham, Roger 93. Askew, Anne 124. Atterbury 294. Bacon, Lord 139. 329.333. Bailie. Joanna 327. Balfe 198. Baliol m. Barham 89. Barrow 97. 201. Barry, Sir Chas. 20i. Baxter 144. 297. Beaconsfield, Lord 93. 181. 192. 196. 335. Beaumont lOl. Becket 102. 142. Bell, Dr. And. 201. Bennet, W.Sterndalel98. Bentinck 224. Berkeley, Bishop 180. Blackstone 97. Blake. Adm. 192. Blake, Wdi. 96. Blessington, Lady 271. Bl(.w, John 198. Bolevn, Anna 123. 182. Bolingbroke 299. Booth 98. 203. Boswell 435. Bourne, Vincent 217. Boyle 221. Bradshaw 190. Brougham, Lord 139. 271 Bruce, David 124. Brunei 113. 199. 294. Buckingham , Duke o 145. 209. Buckland, Wm. 200. Buckle 294. Bulwer Lvtton 206. 271. Bunyan 98. 297. Burdett Coutts, Baroness 27. 134. 329. Burgovne 219. Burke 336. Burleigh, Lord 143. Burnev 198. Burns 113. 2u2. Busbv 203. Butler, Sam. 180. 203. Buxton, Sir T. F. 19^. Byron 222. 225. 329. 332. Cade, Jack 117. 3o4. Calamy 144. Calonne 316. Camden 92. 20l. Campbell 20J. Canning 192. 196. 222, 325. 341. Carlyle 294. Cartwright 217. Ca'^aubon 2Ul. Castlereauh 197. 32J. Catharine of Arragun 113 Catharine of Braganza 142. Catharine noward,(>uc("n 123. Cave 97. 15. Cavendish, Lord F. 192. Caxton 191. Chapman 226. Charles 1. 147. 182. 19a 255. 338. Charles II. 20S. 226. 301. 104. 292. nChatham, Lord 196. .3-1 1. Chaucerlll.144. 2113. 297. Chesterfield 225. Child 225. Churchill 217. Clarence, Duke of 123. Claypole, Kliz. 2t.i9. Clive. Lord 22.5. Clive, Kittv 326. Clyde, L<.rd 2Ul. 219. Cubl.utt 135. Col.den 197. Cobham 124. 190. Coke 3.36. Coleman. Geo. 217 Coleridge, S. T. 92. 2ll2. 32x 329. Collingwood 86. 88. Cnngreve. Wm.tthc poet) 200. Congrevc. Sir W. 114. Constable 327. Cooper, Sir Astley 86. SU. Coote 197. •!rr.'.vr.lii.s V). '..v.r.lalc. Mil.-. • wl>v -iSi. 217. 'nw,,or '.m. 217. •ra-U9 199. 208. 'ranmcr 124. 2U0 111. 358 ALPHABETICAL LLST Cromwell, Henry 275. Cromwell, O. 96. 182. 190. 192. 209. 263. 316. Cromwell, Thos. 123. 139. 324. Cruikshank, Geo. 89. Cumberland , Duke of 224. 342. Darwin, Chas. 198. Davy 216. 221. 229. Defoe 92. 98. Denman 336. Derbv, Earl of 192. Dibdm 227. Dickens, Chas. 94. 202. 271. 297. 328. 346. Disraeli, Ben., see Bea- consfield. Dodsley 218. Donne 85. 101. D'Orsay, Count 271. Douglas, Gavin 144. Dravton 135. 203. Dryden 140. 179. 203. 217, Dudley, GuDdford 123 144. Dyck, Van 143. 345. Dyer 92. 217. Eastlake 294. Edinburgh, Duke of 125 Edward the Confessor 193. 213. 217. 337. Edward I. 212 322. 330. Edward III. 212. 337. Edward V. 210. 120. Edward VI. 209. 301. Eleanor, Queen 145. 147. 211. 330. Eliot, George 294. 328 Elizabeth, Queen 123. 182. 209. 217. 301. 322. 325 333. 336. 344. Ellenborough, Lord 97. Elmsley 217. Enghien, Due d' 316. Erskine, Lord 139. Essex, Earl of 124. 141 190. 298. Fairfax 263. Falstaff 109. 346. Faraday 328. Farquhar 146. Fawcett, Hen. 200. Fawkes, Guy 190. Fielding 326. Flaxman 227. Fletcher, Giles 217. Fletcher, John 101. Foote 180, Fox, Charles 197. 199. 226. 325. 341. Foxe 96. Francis, Sir Philip 325. Franklin, Ben. 95. 145. Franklin, Sir John 214. 219. Frere 89- 113. Frobisher 96. Froude 217. Gainsborough 218. Garrick ISO. 201. Gaunt, John of 94. Gay 202. George, Prince, of Den- mark 208 220. 262. George I. 301. George II. 209. 302. 316, George 111. 218. 99. 143. George IV. 146. 338. Gibbon 217. 324. Gibbons, Grinling 84. 87 Gibson 294. Gladstone 125, Godolphin 200. Goldsmith 89. 135. 137. 13S. 202. 227. Gordon, General 87. 146, Gower 295. Grabe 201. Grattan 197. Gray 107. 203. 336. Gresham 100, 105. 106. Grev, Lady Jane 123. 124. Grote 97. 201. Gwynne,Nell 140.146.329, Hackluyht 217. Hale 139. Halifax, Earl of 197. 210 Hallam, Henrv 85. Hallev 221. Handel 202. 225. 228. 332 Hardy, Sir Thos, 199. Harrington 192. Harvey 94. Hastings , Warren 190 197. 217. Hatton, Sir Chris. 214. Havelock 97. 146. 344. Hel)er 85. 139. Henrietta Maria, Queen 142. Henry I. 337. Henr'v II. 337. HenrV III. 211. 217. IlenrV IV. 216. Henry V. 210. 211. . Henry VI. 123. 124. f Henry VII. 207, 209. 322, Henrv VIII. 94. 182. 255 301' 316. 322. 338. Herbert, Geo. 200. 217. Herbert, Lord 219. Her.schel, Sir John 198. 336. Herschel, Sir Wm. 221. 336. Hill, Sir Rowland 105. 210. Hogarth 95. 107. 180. 223. 225. 228. 325. 328. Holbein 143. 192. 255. Holland, Lord 199. 263 Hone 135. Hooker (the ologian) 137, Hooker, Sir Joseph 322. Hooker. Sir Wm. 322. Home, Bp. 345. Horner, Francis 197. Horrocks 199. Howard, John 85. Howe, Adm. 86. Hunt, Leigh 92. 294. 327. Hunter 177. 199. 223. Ireton 190. 263. 329. Irving, Edw. 227. Irving, Wash. 95. James I. 209. James II. 181. Jeffreys 124. Jenner 262. Jersey, Ladv 225. John, King "336. John , King (of France) 124. 144. Johnson, Samuel, 85. 89. 135. 138. 140. 141. 143. 296. Jones, Inigo 81. 142. Jones, Sir Wm. 86. 89. Jonson, Ben 101. 138. 147. 199. 203. 217. Katherine of Valois 207, Kean 322. Keats 327. Kel.le 200. Kemble 215. 294. Kempenfelt 216. Kenrick 140. Kingslev 200. Kneller' ISO. 201. Kynaston 180. Lamb, Chas. 92. 107. Landor 271. Landseer, Sir E. 89. 271. Lansdowne, Marquis of 199 Laud" 107. 124. 115. Lauderdale 326. OF EMINENT PERSONS. 359 Lawrence, Lord 200. 201. 219. Lawrence, Sir Thus. 89. Leech 97. 294. Lely 180. Leopold of Belgium 220. Lewes, Sir G. C. 197. Liverpool, Lord 316. Livingstone 201. Locke 217. Longfellow 203. Louis Philippe 326. Lovat 124. 190. Lovelace 97. 135. 298. Lyell 199. Lyndhurst 271. 328. Lytton, Bulwer 206. 271. Macaulay, Lord 201. 222. 263. Macaulay, Zachary 199. Mackintosh 199. 327. Maine, Sir H. S. 92. Mansel 87. Mansfield, Lord 139. 197. 32.H. Marlborough , Duke of 124. 220. Marvell 226. Mary 1. 209. 301. Mary XL 208. 263. Marv,(^ueen ..f Scots 208. Mason 203. Massingcr 295. Mathews, Chas. 294. Maurice, F. D. 139. 200. May, Sir T. Erskine 192. Melbourne 87. Bliddleton 92. Mill 113. Milinan 84. 85. 89. Milton, John 91. 95. 96. 101. 135. 182. 192. 203. 267. Monk 208. Monmouth, Duke of 124. Montagu , Lady JIary Wortley 224. Montagu, Mrs. 225. Montpensier, Due de 209. Moore, Sir Jolin 86. Moore, Thos. 263. 271. More, Sir Thos. 101. 106. 123. 139. 190. 293. Mulready 294. Napier, Adm. 85. Isapier, Sir Chas. 85. 140. Napier, Gen. \Vm. 87. Napoleon III. 271. Nelson, Lord 86. 88. 145. 302. 303. Newcastle, Duke of 196. Newton . Sir Isaac 135 143. 198. 221. 233. Newton, .John 109. Norfolk. Duke of 97. North, Lord 97. 192. Northumberland, Duke of 124. Oatos, Titus 92. oidcastle 19<-). ()|.ie 89. Otway 124. Outram 113. 200. 201. Overbury 124. Owen, John 294. Palmcrston 192. 196. 331, 332. Panii 201. Parr, Old 2o3. Peabodv 105. Peel , .Sir Robt. 90. 1.84. 192. 197. 332. 341. Penn. Wm. 93. 124. 125. 142. 263. 336. Pepys 108. 140. Perceval , Spencer 198. 332. Peter the Great 112. 125. 141. 223. Philippa, t^ueen 211. Phillips 203. Picton 87. S8. Pindar, Peter 180. Pitt. Wra. 139. 197. 199. 224. 324. Pocahontas 315. Pollock, Sir Geo, 201. Pope 300. 326. 327. Priestlev 267. Prior 203. 217. Purcell 198. Radclifie, Mrs. 263. Rairie.s, SirT. S. 198.229. 2:30. 332. Raglan, Lord 217. Raikes 113. Raleigh 120. 124. 191. Randolph 140. Rennie 89. 110. 117. Reynolds 87. 89. 223. HiJhard I. 19*2. Richard II. 120. 212. Richard III. 120. 123. Richardson, Sam. 92. 135. 32i. Rodney 87. Rogers 2t33. Ross, Sir .Tohn 294. Roubiliac 146. Rowe 202. 217. Rupert, Prince 140. RusBcIl, Earl 109. 217. Ku.sucll, Lord J.ihn 322. Russell, Lord Wm. 124. 330. Sackville 1.36. St. Evremont 2lO. St. John 299. Sale lU. Sch..mberp 218. Scott, Sir G. G. 2iH. Sclden 135. 139. Seymour, Lord Adm. l'>3. Shadwcll 2 also to be found on one of the special plans, this is indicated by an italicised Roman numeral. Thus. Adam Street, Adelphi , will be found on the red section, square 30; and also on the second special map. The numbering of the squares is so arranged, that squares in different sections bearing the same number adjoin each other. Thus, square 16 on the brown section finds its continuation towards the S. in square 16 on the red section. The squares will also be useful for calculating distances, each side of a square being exactly half a mile, while the diagonals if drawn would be 1,244 yards. Names, to which Grer.t , Little , Old , Neiu , I'pper , Loicer , or Saint are prefixed, are to be sought for under these pretlxes. The following abbreviations are used: ure., a\enue; ch., church; cres., crescent; ct., court; ea., east; yrdns., gard»»ns ; yrn.. green; gro.^ grove; gt., great; hi., hill; ho., house: lii., lane; nth., north; pk., park; pL, place; rd., road; sq., square; s/., street; sia., station; sth., south: ter., terrace: tn., town: irri{Ll(" I'.l ILDINGS. etc. B R G Bentinck st. Manchestersq. / Bentinck street, Soho . . / Benwell mad, Highbury . Benycin rd.. Southgafe rd. Beresford st., Walworth rd. Berkeley rd., Regent's pk. rd. Berkeley square / Berkeley st.. Piccadilly /. IV Bermondsey New road Bermondsey street . . Bermondsey wall . . . Bernard st.. Regent's pk. rd Bernard street, Russell sq Berners road, Islington Bemers street, Oxford st. / Berwick st., Oxford st. . / Berwick street. Pimlico . Bessborough street. Pimlico Beta place, St. John's wood Bethlehem hospital , Lam- beth road Bethnal green museum. Cam bridge road Bethnal green junction sta., Three Colt lane Bethnal green road .... Bevenden street, Hoxton Bevis marks, St. Mary Axe /// Bible society // Bidborough street, Judd st. Billingsgate market . . /// Billiter street, Fenchurch street /// Bina road. Old Brompton . Binfield road, Claphamroad Bingfleld St., Caledonian rd. Birchin lane. Cornhill /// Birchington road. Kilburn Bird street, Oxford street / Bird St., West sq., Lambeth Birdcage walk, St. James's park . . ir Bird-in-bush road.KewPeck- ham Birkbeck Institution . . // Bishop's road. Hackney . . Bishop's rd., North Brixton Bishop's road . Paddington Bishop's road. Victoria pk. Bishopsgate st. rail, station Bishopsgate st. within /// Bishopsgate st. without /// Blackfriars bridge . . . II Blackfriars pier, Blackfriars bridge // Blackfriars railway bdg. // Blackfriars railway sta. // Blackfriars mad . ... II Blackheath avenue .... Blackheath hill 35 52 30 55 55 33 35 38 33 47 35 Blackheath road Pilackheath railway station, Blackheath hill Hlackman street, Borough Blackwall Blackwall railway station . Blake's road. Peckham grove Blakesley street, Commercial road east Blandford scjuare B]andfnrdst.,Portman sq. I Blantyre street, Chelsea . . Blenheim road, St. John's wood Blenheim st. Cale st. Chelsea Blenheim st. New Bond st. / Blenheim street. Oxford St. / Blenheim ter., St. Johns wood Blomfield place, Harrow rd. Blomfield road, Edgwarerd. Blomfield street. Dalston . Blomfield St., Harrow road Blomfield st., London wall /// Bloomfield terrace, Pimlico Bloomsbury market .... Bloom.sbury place . . . 11 Bloomsbury square . . // Bloomsbury street . . . II Blount street. Salmon's lane Blue Anchor la.. Bermond.'^ey Blue Anchor yd '. Blue Anchor road Bluecross St.. Leicester sq. / Blnndellst., Caledonian rd. Blvthe St.. Bethnal green rd. Board of Trade, Whitehall gardens IV Board of Works, Spring gardens IV Boleyn road Bolingbroke road. Church street, Battersea Bolsover street / Bolton road, Xotting hill . Bolton road, St. Johns wood Bolton row, JIayfair . . IV Bolton street. Kcnnington . Bolton street. Picadilly IV Boltons(The). W. Brompton Bond street. Pentonvillc . Bond street. New . . . . I Bond street. Old . . . . / Bond street, Vanxh.'.ll . . Bonner's road. Victoria pk. ]55 Bonny street. Camden town 22 Boodle's club, St. James's street IV Bookhan) street Hoxton . Booralield road, Clapham . B R G 68 68 43 Xb 26 34 26 22 28 LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL STREETS, R G B R G Booth street, Spitalfields . Borough High street. . . . Borough rd. railway station Borough road, Southwark Boscobel gardens, St. .John's wood Boscobel pi., St. John's wood Boston place, Dorset square Boston street. Dorset square Boston street. Hackney rd. Botanicgardens, Inner circle. Regent's park Botolph lane, Lower Thames street /// Boundary la., Camberwell rd. Boundary rd., St. John's wd. Boundary rw., Blackfriars road Boundary street, Shoreditch Bourdon St. . . . . , /, /F Bouverie St., Fleet st. // Bow churchyard, Cheapside /// Bow common , Middlesex . Bow common lane .... Bow junction railway sta., Fairfield road Bow lane, Cheapside . /// Bow lane, Poplar Bow rail, statn., Avenue rd. Bow road, Mile end .... Bow street, Covent garden Bowling grn. la.. ClerknwU. Bowling green street, Ken- nington road Boxworth grove, Barnsbury Boyle street. Savile row / BoTSon road, Walworth . . Bradley street. Sth. Lmbth. Brady st., Whitechapel rd. Bramah road, Brixton . . . Branch place. Hoxton . . . Brandon road, York road . Brandon street, Walworth Bread street, Cheapside /// Brecknock road Brewer street. Golden sq. / Brewer st., Pancras road . Brewer street, Pimlico . IV Brewery rd.. Caledonian rd. Brick court. Temple . . . Brick lane, Spitalfields /// Brick street. Park lane, Piccadilly '. lY Bricklayers' Arms station . Bride street, Holloway . . Bridewell place, New Bridge station // Bridge road, Battersea . . . Bridge street, Homerton . . Bridge st., Westminster lY 35 37 30 53 38 30 25 Bridgewater ho., St. James's park lY Bridgewater St., Somers town Bridport pi., New North road Bright street , Bromley . . Brill row, Somers town . . Brindley st.,Westbourne grn- Bristol gardens, Warwick rd. Britannia rd.,Walham green Britannia row, Islington . . Britannia street, Hoxton . Britannia st., Gray's inn rd. British museum . ... II British street. Bow road . . Britten st., Blenheim street Brixton road Broad court, Long acre . . Broad Sanctuary, West- minster lY Broad street, Bloomsbury // Broad street. Golden sq. . / Broad street, Lambeth . . Broad st. railway sta. /// Broad street , Ratcliff . . . Broadley ter., Blandford sq. Broadwall , Stamford street Broadway, Deptford .... Broadway, Ludgate hill // Broadway, Westminster IV Broke road, Dalston .... Bromehead st.. Commercial road east Bromley railway station, St. Leonard's street Bromley street, Commercial road east Brompton crescent Brompton road Brompton square Brondesbury park, Kilburn Brondesbury villas, Kilburn Brook street, Bermondsey New road Brook St., Grosvenor sq. / Brook street, Lambeth . . Brook street, Ratcliffe . . . Brooke street, Holborn . // Brookfield rd., Victoria pk. Brook's mews, Davies st. / Brooksby street, Islington . Brooksby's walk, Homerton Brook's club. St. James's st. lY Broom's alley, Fulham . . . Broomhouse lane, Fulham . Brougham road , Dalston . Brougham st.. Queen's rd. Brown st., Bryanston sq. . Brown street. Grosvenorsq. / Brown's lane , Brick lane . Brownlow road , Dalston . 27 SQUARES, PUBLIC BUILDINGS etc. B R G B R G Brovvnlow st.. Drury la. // Brownlow st., Haggerstone Brown]. St., High Holborn // Bruce road , Bromley . . . Brunei street, Vauxhall . . Brunswick gardens, Campden hill Brunswick chapel . . . . I Brunswick rd., Ea. Ind. rd. Brunswick sq., Camberwell Brunswick sq., Foundling h. Brunswick street , Hackney Brunswick st., Hackney rd. Brunswick st., Southwark Brunswick street. Poplar . Brunswick yard. City road Brushfield .«treet. Bishops- gate street Bruton st., Kew Bond st. / Bryan street, Caledonian rd. Bryanston square Bryanston st.. Portman sq. / Brydges street . Strand . // Buckingham gate.Pimlico IV Buckingham palace . . JV Buckingham palace road IV Buckingham road, De Beau- voir town Buckingham st., Fitzroy sq. Buckingham st.. Strand // Buckland cres., Belsize pk. Buckland st.. New North rd. Bucklersbury, Cheapside /// Buck's row,Whitechapel rd. Budge row. Cannon st. /// Bull & Mouth street . . /// Bulstrode St.. Welbeck st. / Bunhill row, Chiswell street Burcham street, Bromley . Burdett road, Limehouse . Burdett road railway station Burleigh street, Strand . // Burlington arcade . Picca- dilly / Burlington grdns., Old Bond street / Burlington rd., Westboume park Burne street. Edgware road Burnett street , Vauxhall . Burr street, St. Katharine's docks Burton crescent, Euston road Burton road , Brixton road Bury court, St. Mary Axe /// Bury place. Oxford street . Bury street, Blofimsbury // Bury street, Jermyn st. IV Bury St., Sydney .st.. Chelsea Busby place, Osney crescent Bush lane. Cannon street /// . 31 47i 32 68 32 32 541 47 34 70 42| 28 46 43 . 32 25 22 30 43 30 Hushey hill, Peckham road Buttesland steet, East road. Hoxton Byron street, St. Leonard's road. Bromley Bywatcr street. King's road Cable street, Wellclose sq. Cadogan pier Cadogan place, Sloane street Cadogan street. Sloane street Cadogan ter., Sloane street Cale street, Chelsea .... Caledonia St.. King's cross Caledonian road, Holloway Callow street. Fulham road Camberwell grove Camberwell square .... Camberwell New road . . . Camberwell railway station, Statif)n rf>ad Camberwell road Cambridge gdns., Kilburn . Cambridge circus . . /, // Cambridge club, Old Bond street / Cambridge house . . . IV Cambridge pi., Paddington Cambridge rd.. Kilburn pk. Cambridge road. Mare street Cambridge sq.. Upper South- wick street Cambridge st.. Edgware rd. Cambridge street. Pimlico . Cambridge ter., Edgware rd. Cambridge ter.. Regent's pk. Camden cots.. Camden town Camden grove , Peckham grove Camden park road .... Camden road. Camden town Camden sq.. Camden town Camden st.. Bethnal grn. rd. Camden street. Camden town Camden st., Islington green Camden town railway sta., Great College street . . . Cameliast., South Lambeth Camera square, Chelsea . . Camilla road, Bermondsey Camomile st.,Bishopsgate/y/ Campbell road. Bow road . Campden grove. Kensington Campden hill. Kensington . Campden hill rd.. Kensington Campden ho. rd. . Kensington Campden street, Kensington Canal road. Kingsland road Canal road. Mile end road Canfiold gardens, Kilt»iirn. . Canning pi., Ken.-*ingt<>n gate Cannon row Parliament st. 7 F LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL STREETS, B R G B B, G Cannon street /// Cannon st. railway bdg. /// Cannon st. railway sta. /// Cannon street road , Com- mercial road east .... Canonbury grove , Islington Canonbury junction station, Douglas road north . . . Canonbury lane Canonbury pk. — nth ria park Christopher St.. Finsbury sq. Chryssell road, Brixton road Chumleigh st., Camberwell Church pi., Paddington grn. Church road, Battersea . . Church road, High street, Homerton Church road, Islington . . Church row, Bethnal grn. rd. Church street, Bethnal green Church St., Camberwell grn. Church street. Chelsea . . Church .street, Deptford . . Church street, <;reenwich . Church street, Horselydown Church street, Islington . . . 28 28 24 2U 10 22 58 10 LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL STREETS, BUG B R G Church street, Kensington Church street, Lissdn grove Church street, Rotherhithe Church street. Smith square, Westminster IV Church street, Soho . . , I Church street, .Spitalfields . Church street , Trinity sq., Boro' Church street, Waterloo rd. Churchill road, Homerton . Churton street, Pimlico . . Circus pi ace, Finsbury circus /// Circus road, Haverstock rd. Circus rd., St. John's wood Circus street, Marylebone rd. Cirencester st., Harrow road City garden road. City road Citv gardens. Citv road . . City liberal club ' ... Ill City road Civil Service club . . . IV Clanricarde gardens, Notting hill Clapham road Clapton road, Clapton . . . Clapton square. Clapton . . Clare market, Strand . . // Clare street, Clare market // Claremont sq., Pentonville . Clarence gdns., Regent's pk. Clarence place, Clapton . . Clarence house .... IV Clarence road. Bow .... Clarence road. Hackney . . Clarence road, Kentish town Clarence street, Rotherhithe Clarence street , St. Peter's street, Islington Clarence street, York road. City road Clarence ter.. Regent's park Clarendon gdns., Maida vale Clarendon place, Hyde park gardens Clarendon road, Kensington Clarendon sq., Somer's town Clarendon street, Harrow rd. Clarendon street, Pimlico . Clarendon st., Somer's town Clarges street, Piccadilly IV Clark St., Commercial rd. ea. Claverton street, Lupus st. Clay street, Crawford street / Clayland's road. South Lam- beth Clayton st., Caledonian road Clayton street, Kennington Cleaver street, Kensington Clement's inn, Strand . // 53 40 28 Clement's lane, Lombard st. Ill Clement's rd. ,Drummond rd. Cleopatra's needle . . . II Clephane road , Islington . Clerkenwell clo., Clerken- well Clerkenwell green Cleve rd., West Hampstead Cleveland gdns., Bayswater Cleveland rd., Downham rd. Cleveland road, St. James's IV Cleveland square, Bayswater Cleveland st., Fitzroy sq. / Cleveland st. , Mile end road Clifden road, Lower Clapton Clifl'ord St., New Bond st. / Clifford's inn. Fleet street // Clift street. New North road Clifton gardens , Maida hill Clifton road, Asylum road Clifton road , Camden town Clifton road , Maida vale . Clifton road. New Cross . . Clifton road, St. John's wood Clifton road, Shacklewell . Clifton rd. ea., St.John's wd. Clifton street, Clapham . . Clifton street, Finsbury . . Clifton villas, Camden sq. . Clinger street, Hoxton . . . Clinton road, Grove road . Clipstone st., Fitzroy sq. / Cloak lane , Queen street, Cheapside /// Cloudesley road, Islington . Cloudesley sq., Liverpool rd. Cloudesley st. , Cloudesley sq. Clyde street. West Brompton Clydesdale road, Notting hill Coal yard, Drury lane . . . Coal Exchange, Lower Tha- mes street /// Cobham road, Stratford . . Coborn road. Bow road . . Coborn street. Bow road . Cobourg road. Old Kent road Cobourg row , Tothill fields IV Coburg street, Clerkenwell Cochrane st., St. John's wd. Cock lane, Smithfleld . . // Cock 2 16 LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL STREETS, B R G B R G Formosa street, Maida hill Forston st., New Nortli rd. Fort road, Bermondsey . . Fort street, Spital square Fortune grn. la.. Hampstead Foster lane, Cheapside /// Foulis terrace, Fulham rd. Foundling hospital, Guil- ford street Fountain court, Strand II Foxley road. North Brixton Frampton park road . . . Francis St., Barnsbury rd. Francis street, Battersea . Francis st., Tothill fields IV Francis street, Tottenham court road / Francis street, Vauxhall st. Franklin row. Pimlico road Frazier street, Lower marsh, Lambeth Frederick pi., Mile end road Frederick place, Newington butts Frederick St., Caledonian rd. Frederick st., Gray's inn rd. Frederick St., Hampstead rd. Frederick st., Portland town Freeling st.. Caledonian rd. Freeschool st., Horselydown French R. Cath. Chapel / Friar st., Blackfriars road Friday street. Cheapside /// Friendly place, Mile end rd. Frith street, Soho square / Frognal Fulham place, Harrow rd. Fulham park Fulham road, Brompton Fuller St., Bethnal green . Fumivars inn, Holborn II Furnival street, Holborn // Gaiety theatre, Strand // Gainsford st., Richmond rd. Gainsbororgh rd Gainsford St., Horselydown Gainsford street, Kentish town road Gallery of Illustration, Re- gent street / Galway street. City road . Garden row , London road Gardener's road, Grove rd. Garford street. Poplar . . Garlick hill. Upper Thames street Garnault place. Clerkenwell Garrick club, Garrick st. // Garrick st., Covent grdn. // Garrick theatre .... II \ 60 48 44 45 34 35 33 Garway rd., Westbourne gr. Gascoyne road, Victoria pk. Gate street , Lincoln's inn fields // Gayhurst rd., London fields Gaywood street, London rd. Gee street. Goswell road . Gee St.. Upper Sevmour st. General Post Office . . /// Geological Museum . . . I George Ist's statue . . . / George st., Blackfriars rd. George street, Camberwell George street, Euston sq. George st., Grosvenor sq. / George street, Hanover sq. / George st. , Langham pi. / George street, London fields George st., Manchester sq. / George St., Mansion ho. /// George St., Old Montague st. George st., St. Giles's . // George street, Tower hill . George street, Vauxhall . . George yard. London st. . George's road, Holloway . Georgiana st.. Camden tn. Gerald Road, Pimlico . . . German hospital, Dalston Gerrard street, Islington . Gerrard street. Soho . . / Gertrude street. Chelsea. . Gibraltar walk, Bethnal grn. Gibson square. Islington. . Gifi"ord St., Caledonian rd. Gilbert road. Lower Ken- nington lane Gilbert st., Museum st. // Gilbert st., Grosvenor sq. / Gilbert's st., Clare market Gill street, Limehouse . . Gilston rd.. W. Brompton. Giltspur St. ,'W. Smithfleld // Glaskin road, Hackney . . Glasshouse st., Regent st. / Glasshouse st.. Royal Mint street .".... Glasshouse street, Vauxhall Glenarm rd.. Lower Clapton Glengall gro.. Old Kent rd. Glengall rd.. Isle of Dogs. Glengall rd.. Old Kent rd. Globe road. Mile end . . . Globe theatre , Newcastle street, Strand . ... II Gloucester cres., Regent's park Gloucester crescent, West- bourne park Gloucester gate, Regent's pk. Gloucester gro., Old Bromptn. 58 50 27 39 17 27 10 54 53 22 SQUARES, PUBLIC BUILDINGS, etc. 17 B R G R O Gloucester mews east, Port- man square / Gloucester mews we., Hyde park / Gloucesterpl., Lancaster gate Gloucester pL, Portman sq. / Gloucester rd.. Glo'str. gate Gloucester road station . . Gloucester rd. , Peckham gro. Gloucester road , Kensing- ton gate Gloucester sq.. Hyde park Gloucester street, Albert embankment Gloucester st.. Camden tn. Gloucester st., Clerkenwell '36 Gloucester st., Hackney rd. '51 Gloucester st., Haggerston 47 Gloucester st., Hoxtnn st. Gloucester street, Pimlico Gloucesterst., Portman sq. / Gloucester st.. Queen sq. // Gloucester street, Lambeth Gloucester ter., Hyde park Gloucester ter., Kensington Gloucester ter.. Regent's pk. Godfrey st., Calest., Chelsea Godliman street, Doctors' commons // Golden lane, Barbican . . Golden square, Regent st. / Goldhurst terrace Goldington cres.. St. Pancras Goldington street. Bedford New town Goldney road. Harrow road Goldsmith road, Peckham. Goldsmith st.. Wood st. /// Goldsmiths' row, Hackney road Goodge street, Tottenham court road / Goodman's fields , Withe- chapel Goodman's yd.,Minories /// Gordon place , Gordon sq. Gordon square Gordon street, Gordon sq. Goring street, London fields Gossett St., Bethnal grn. rd. Goswell road Gough street, East India rd. Gough street, Gray's inn rd. Goulston St., Whitechapel III Government offices. Down- ing street IV Gower place, Euston square Gower street, Bedford sq. / Gower's walk, Whitechapel Grace street, Bromley . . . Baedeker, London. 7th Edit 20 29 Gracechurch rd.. St.. Curiiliill 111 Krnti.sh tnwn Grafton road Grafton street. Fitzroy sq. Grafton street, 3Iile end . . Grafton st., \ew Bond st. / Graham rd., Dalston . . . Graham street, City ruad . Graham street, Pirnlico . . Granby St., Hampstcad rd. Grand .Tunction road , Pad- dington Grand .Surrey docks. Rother- hithe Grange rd., Bermondsey . Grange road, Camden town Grange rd., Canonbury pk. Grange road, Dalston . . . Grange road. Peckham road Grange street, llo.xton . . Grange walk . Bermondsey Granville pi.. Portman sq. / Gravel lane, Houndsditch . Gravel lane, Southwark. . Gray street. Blackfriars rd. Gray St., Manchester sq. / Gray's inn. High Holborn // Gray's inn road . ... II Gray's inn sq.. Gray's inn // Grayshott rd.. Lavender hi. Great Alie st., Goodman's fields IV Great Arthur st., Golden la. Great Barlow street, Mary- lebone / Great Bell alley, Moorgate street Ill GreatBlandst..Gt. Dover St. Great Cambridge street. Hackney road Great Castle st.. Regent st. / Great Chapel street, Oxford street, Soho / Great Chapel street, West- minster IV Great Chart street, Hoxton Great College st.. Camden tn. Great College street, West- minster IV Great Coram street, Bruns- wick square Great Cumberland place. . Great Dover st., Southwark Great Earl street SeN en dials // Great Eastern street. . . . Great Eastern terminus, Liverpool street . . /// Great George street, West- minster IV II 44 18 LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL STREETS, B R G B R 6 Great Guildford street, Borough /// Great Hermitage street, Wapping Great Hunter street, Gt. Dover street Great James st. , Bedford row. Great James st., Hoxton . Great James st., Lisson gro. Great Marlborough street / Great Maze pnd., Southwk. Great Mitchell st., St. Luke's Great Kew st.. Fetter la. // Great J>'ewport st., Soho // Great Northern terminus, King's cross Great Ormond St., Queen sq. Great Pearl st., Spitalfields Great Percy st., Amwell st. Great Peter street, West- minster IV Great Portland street . , / Great Prescot street, Good- man's fields /// Great Pulteney street , Gol- den square / Great Quebec st. , Montagu sq. Great Queen street, Lin- coln's inn // Great Queen street, West- minster IV Great Russell st.. Blooms- bury /, // Great Saffron hill, Hatton wall // Great St. Andrew street, Seven dials // Great St. Helen's, Bishops- gate /// Great St. Thomas street. Bow lane /// Great Scotland yard. Char- ing cross IV Great Smith street, West- minster IV Great Stanhope streei . IV Great Suffolk st.. Borough Great Sutton st., Clerkenwell Great Titchfield street, Ox- ford street / Great Tower street, Tower hill Ill Great Trinity lane, Cannon street west /// Great Western terminus , Paddington Great Western ter., West- bourne park Great White Lion street, Seven dials // Great Wild st., Drury la. // 32 Great Winchester street /// Great Windmill street, Haymarket / Greek street, Soho square / Green Bank, Wapping. . . Green park, St. James's IV Green st., Bethnal green . Green st., Grosvenor sq. / Green street, Leicester sq. / Green street, Malboro' road, Chelsea Green Man street, Essex rd. Greenwich hospital .... Greenwich naval asylum . Greenwich observatory . . Greenwich park Greenwich pier Greenwich railway station, London road Greenwich road Greenwood road, Dalston . Grenville street, Guilford st. Gresham st., Old Jewry /// Gresham street west. Wood street /// Gresse st / Greville pi., Kilburn priory Greville road, Kilburn . . Greville street, Holborn // Greycoat street, Westminster IV Grey Eagle st., Spitalfields Greystoke place , Fetter la. Griffin st.,York rd., Lambeth Groombridge road, Hackney Grosvenor cres., Belgrave square Grosvenor gardens, Pimlico Grosvenor gate, Hyde park / Grosvenor house . . . . / Grosvenor mews, Grosvenor street / Grosvenorpark, Camberwell Grosvenor place, Hyde park corner IV Grosvenor road, Pimlico • Grosvenor road , Highbury New park Grosvenor gallery , New Bond street / Grosvenor rd. rail, station Grosvenor square . . . . / Grosvenor street, Camber- well road Grosvenorst.,Comrcl. rd. ea. Grosvenor street. New Bond street / Grove end rd., St. John's wd. Grove lane, Camberwell . Grove park square, Cambcr- I well grove 56 38 54 SQUARES, PUBLIC BUlLDINdS, P.) B R G B R G Grove place, Hackney . . . Grove place, Lisson grove Grove pi., Southampton st. Grove road, Falcon lane . Grove rd., St. John's wood Grove st., Deptford .... Grove street, Hackney. . . Grove street road, Hacknev Guards' club, Pall mall IV Guildford rd., Sth. Lambeth Guildford street, Lambeth Guildhall, King st., Cheap- side IIJ Guildhall School of Music // Guilford road. Poplar . . . Guilford st , Russell square Gun la., West India dock rd. Gun street, Spital fields . . Gunter's gro..We. Brompton Gurney st., Walworth road Gutter lane, Cheapside /// Guy's hospital, St. Thomas's street. Borough Guy street, Bermondsey . . Gwynne road, Battersea . . Gye street, Vauxhall . . . Haberdasher street, Hoxton Hackford road, Brixton . . Hackney downs junction railway station Hackney rail, sta., Church street Hackney road Hadley street, Kentish town Haggerston rail, sta., Leest. Haggerston rd. , Kingsland rd. Hague St., Bethnal green rd. Haines St., Battersea road Halfmoon cres., Islington Halfmoon st., Piccadilly IV Half Nichols st., Shoreditch Halkin street, Grosvenor place IV Halkin st. west. Belgrave sq. Hall place, Paddington . . Hall road, St. .Tohn's wood Hall street, City road . . . Halliford street, Islington . Halsey street, Chelsea . . . Halton road, Islington . . . Hamilton pi., Piccadilly IV Hamilton road, Grove road Hamilton st., Camden town Hamilton terrace, St. John's wood Hammond st., Kentish tn. Hampden street, Harrow rd. Hampstead rd. , Hampstead Hampstead rd., Tottenham court road 4'J 31 27 23 Hampton st., Walworth rd. Hanniker road, Stratford New town Hanover ch., Regent st. I Hanover square I Hanover st., ILinover sq. / Hanover street, Islington . Hanover street, Kentish In. Hanover street, Lung acre Hanover street, Pimlico . Hanover st., Walworth mad Hanover ter.. Regents park Hans place, Sloane street . Hanway street, Oxford st. I llarcourt street, Marylebone Harcourt house. Cavendish square / Ilardinge strcet,Commercial road cast Hardington street, Pr)rtman market Hare street, Bethnal green Hare walk. Kingsland road Harewood pi., Hanover sq. / Harewood square, Dorset sq. Harewood st., Harewood s(i. Harford street. Stepney . . Harley rd., St. John's wood Harley street, Bow road . Harley st.. Cavendish sq. / Harleyford road. Vauxhall Harling street, Albany road, Camberwell Harman st., Kingsland rd. Harmood st., Chalk Frm. rd. Harp lane , Lower Thames street /// Harrington gardens , Glou- cester road Harrington road , South Kensington Harrington sq.. Hampstd. rd. Harrington St., Hampstd. rd. Harrison St., Gray's inn rd. Harrow alley, Houndsditch Harrow road Harrow street, Lisson gro. Hart St., Bloomsbury square Hart street, Bow street . . Hart St., Grosvenor sq. / Hartham road. Camden rd. Hartland road, Chalk farm Hartley street. Green .street Hart's la., Bethnal green rd. Harvey road, Camt'Twell Harwood road, Fulhara . . Hassard street. Hackney rd. Hastings street, Burton cres. Hatcham, Surrey Hatcham New town , Old Kent road 37 (39 27 43 42 II 20 LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL STREETS, B R G B R G Hatcham park road, New Cross Hatfield street, Goswell rd. Hatfield street, Stamford st. Hatton garden , Holborn hill II Hatton wall, Hatton garden Havelock street Havelock road Haverstock grove, Haver- stock hill Haverstock hill Haverstock road , Haver- stock park Haverstock street, City rd. Havil street , Camberwell Hawley cres., Camden tn. Hawley road, Kentish town Haydon street, Minories /// Hayles St., St. George's rd. Haymarket, St. James's / Haymarket theatre , Hay- market / Hayne street. Long lane . Hay's lane, Tooley street . Hay's street / Heath road, Hampstead . . Heath street. Commercial road east Heaton place, Stratford . . Heddon street. Regent st. / Helmet row, Old street, St. Luke's Hemingford rd., Barnsbury Hemsworth street, Hoxton Heneage st., Spitalfields . . Hengler's circus , Argyll street / Henley street , Battersea road east Henrietta street , Bruns- wick sq Henrietta street. Cavendish square / Henrietta street , Covent garden // Henrietta street, Manchester square / Henry street, Bermondsey st. Henry street, Gray's inn rd. Henry street, Hampstead rd. Henry street, Pentonville . Henry st., Portland town . Henry street, St. Luke's . Henry street , Upper Ken- nington lane Herbert street. Hackney rd. Herbert st.. New North rd. Hercules bldgs., Lambeth Hereford grdns., Park la. / Hereford road, Paddington 69 32 43 33 20 Hereford sq.,01d Brompton Hereford st., Lisson grove. Her Majesty's theatre, Opera arcade, Haymarket . IV Herme st., Paddington grn. Hermes street, Pentonville Hertford rd.,De Beauvoir tn. Hertford house, Manchester square / Hertford house, Piccadillv IV Hertford street, Mayfair IV Hewlett road, Roman road Hevgate St., Walworth rd. High Holborn II High street, Aldgate . /// High street. Battersea . , High street, Bloomsbury. High street. Borough . , High street, '■ romley . . High street, Camberwell High street, Camden town High street, Deptford . . High street, Homerton . High street, Islington . . High street, Kensington . High street, Kingsland . High street, Lambeth . . High street, Marylebone High street, Notting hill High street, Peckham . . High street. Poplar . . . High street, St. Giles's /, // High street, St. John's wood High street, Shadwell . . . High street, Shoreditch . . High streetj Vauxhall . . . High street. Wapping . . . High St., Whitechapel /// Highbury crescent Highbury grove Highbury new park . . . . Highbury pi., Hollowayrd., Highbury railway station, HoUoway road Highbury terrace, Highbury crescent Highgate road, Kentish tn. Hilgrove road, Finchley rd. Hill place street , Upper North street, Poplar . . Hill road, St. John's wood Hill street, Berkeley sq. . / Hill street , Blackfriars rd. Hill street. Finsbury . . . Hill street, Knightsbridge . Hill street, Peckham . . . Hill street, Walworth road Hilldrop crescent, Holloway Hilldrop road, Camden rd. Hillfield road, Hampstead 59 SQUARES, 21 BUG B K O Hillmarten road, Camden rd. Hills place, Oxford street / Hind street. Poplar .... Hinde st., Manchester sq. / Hindle street, Shacklewell Hindon street, Pimlico . . Hobart place, Eaton sq. JV Hobury street. Chelsea . . Holborn // Holborn circus .... // Holborn theatre . ... II Holborn viaduct. . . . II Holborn viaduct station // Holford square. Pentonville Holland grove, Cranmer rd. Holland house , Kensington Holland park, Notting hill Holland park road, Kensing- ton road Holland road, Kensington . Holland road, Brixton. . . Holland st., Blackfriars rd. Holland street, Brixton rd. Holland st., Horseferry rd. IV Holland street, Kensington Hollen St., Wardonr st. / Holies St., Cavendish sq. / Holies St., Clare market // Hollingsworthst.,Holloway Hollington road, Wyndham road Holloway road Holly road, Dalston .... Hollybush gardens, Bethnal green Hollyvpood road, West Brompton Holyoak road, Dante road Holywell lane, Shoreditch Holyvrell row, Curtain road Holywell street. Strand // Home office , New Govern- ment build., Whitehall /F Homer road, Victoria park Homer row, Crawford street Homer street, Crawford st. Homer street, Westminster bridge road Homertfin Honey lane , Cheapside /// Horace st.. South Lambeth Homey lane, Neckinger road Hornton street. Kensington Horse Guards, Whitehall /K Horseferry rd., Westminster IV Horseferry branch rd.. Com- mercial road east .... Horselydown lane , Shad Thames 29 32 34 58 53 39 33 25 Horseshoe alley, Wilson st., Finsbury Horseshoe" yard, New Bond street / Horticultural gardens. South Kensington Horton road, Wilton road . Hosier la.. West Smithfield // Houghton St., Clare market // Houndsditch /// Houses of Parliament . IV Howard street, Strand . II Howard st. .Wandsworth nl. Howey st.. Bridge rd., Batt. Rowland street, Fitzroy sq. / Howley place, Belvidere rd. Howley place, Harrow road Hows street, Kingsland road Hoxton square Hoxton street Huggin lane. Wood street, Cheapside /// Hugh street, St. George's road. Pimlico Hungerford pier , Victoria embankment IV Hungerford road , Holloway Hunt street. Pelham street Hunter street, Brunswick sq. Huntingdon st., Caledonian road Huntingdon st., Hoxton st. Huntley street, Tottenham court road Hyde park Hyde pk. barracks. Knights bridge Hyde park corner, Hyde park IV Hyde park grdns., Hyde pk. Hyde park gate, Kensington Hyde park place , Oxford street / Hyde park square Hyde park st., Hyde pk. sq. Hyde pk. ter.. Bayswater rd. Hyde place , Westminster . Hyde road. Battersea . . . Hyde road, Hoxton . . . . Idol lane, Gt. Tower street Ifield road. West Brompton Imperial Institute India off., St. James's pk. IV Ingleton street, BrixUm road Ingrave street, Battersea . Inkerman road, Kentish tn. Inner circle, Regent's park Inner Temple H Inverness gardens 50 22 LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL STREETS, BUG B R Q Inverness road, Bishop's road Inverness terrace Inville road , Walworth , . Ion square, Hackney road . Ironmonger lane, Cheapside /// Ironmonger row, Old street Isle of Dogs Islington High street . . . Islington railway stat. . . . Islip St., Kentish town road Iverson road, Edgware road, Kilburn Ivy lane, Hoxton Ivy lane, Newgate street . . Jacob St., Mill st., Dockhead Jamaica level, Bermondsey Jamaica road, Bermondsey Jamaica street, Commercial road east James grove , Commercial road, Peckham James street, Bethnal green James street, Buckingham gate IV James street, Clapham . . James street. Commercial road east James st., Covent garden // James street, Essex road , James street , Haymarket / James street , Kennington . James street, Kensington sq. James street, Lambeth. , . James street, Lambeth walk James street, Oxford street / James st., Westbourne ter. Jardin street , Albany road JeflFrey street, Camden town Jeffries road, Clapham road Jeremiah street, East India dock road Jermyn st., St. James's/, IV Jewin court, Jewin street . Jewin St., Red Cross st., City Jewry street, Aldgate . /// Jockey fields // John St., Adelpbi, Strand // John street, Edgware road John St., Gt. Suffolk st. Boro' John St., High street. Stoke Newington John street, Kingsland road John street, Minories . /// John street , Old Ford road John street, Old Kent road John street, St. John's wood John street, Spitalfields . . John street, Wilmington sq. John st. nth., Marylebone rd. 40 22 42 John St. west, Thornbill sq. John Campbell road, High street, Kingsland .... Johnson st.. Commercial road east Johnson street, Camden tn. Joiner street, Westminster bridge road Joiners street, Tooley street Jonathan st., Vauxhall walk Jubilee place , King's road, Chelsea Jubilee street. Commercial road east Judd street Junior United Service club / Junior Atheneeum club, Pic- cadilly IV Junior Carlton club , Pall mall IV Keetons road, Rotherhithe Kempsford gardens , Rich- mond rd.. West Brompton Kempsford rd.. Lower Ken- nington lane Kender street, New Cross . Kenilworth road , Roman road Kennett road, Harrow road Kennington oval Kennington park Kennington park gardens, Royal road Kennington park road . . . Kennington road, Lambeth Kensington gardens .... Kensington gardens square Kensington gate Kensington gore, Kensington Kensington High street . . Kensington museum, Crom- well road Kensington palace Kensington palace gardens Kensington pk. grdens., Lad- brooke square Kensington park road . . . Kensington road Kensington square Kensington station .... Kent street, Borough . , . Kentish town road .... Kenton street, Brunswick sq. Keppel street, Chelsea . . . Keppel street, Russell square /, II Kerbey st.. East India dock Kilburn lane, Kilburn . . . Kildare gardens, Bayswater SQUARES, PUBLIC BUILDINGS, et( 23 BEG Kildare terrace , Bayswater Kilton street, Lower Wands- worth road King square, Goswell road King street, Baker street / King street, Cale st., Chelsea King street, Camden town King street, Cheapside /// King St., Covent garden // King street, Drury lane // King street, Golden square / King street, Goswell road . King St., Grosvenor square / King street. High St., Ken- sington King St., Lee st., Kingsland King street, Long acre . // King street. Moor street . . King St., St. James's sq. IV King street , Snow hill // King street, Whitehall . IV King Edward st.. Blackfriars King Edward street, Lam- beth road King Edward st., Newgate street Ill King Edward's road .... King Henry street , Stoke Newington King Henry's road, Adelaide road, Hampstead King Henry's walk , Stoke Newington King William street, London bridge . /// King William st.. Strand // King's road, Chelsea . . . King's road , Hoxton street King's road, Peckham . . , King's Bench walk, Temple // King's college , Strand , // King's college hospital, Por- tugal St., Lincoln's inn // King's cross railway station King's cross road Kingsbury road. Ball's pond Kingsgate St., High Holborn // Kingsland basin , Kingsland Kingsland road Kingsleigh St., Shaftesbury park Kinnerton St., Knightsbridge Kirby st.. Hatton garden // Kitto road Knightrider street. Doctors' commons /// Knightsbridge barracks . . Knightsbridge grn., Hyde pk. 40 32 Knowsley road, Latchmere road Lacey street, Mostyn road Ladbroke grove ...... Ladbroke grove road . . . Ladbroke road, Notting hill Ladbroke square, Notting hi. Lady Lake's grn. .Mile end rd. Lamb lane. Mare street. Hackney Lambeth bridge . ... IV Lambeth High street . . . Lambeth Lower marsh . . Lambeth Palace . ... IV Lambeth Palace rd. . . IV Lambeth pier, Albert em- bankment IV Lambeth road, Southwark Lambeth st.. Little Alie st. Lambeth Upper marsh . . . Lambeth walk, Lambeth , Lamb's Conduit st.. Found- ling hosp Lamb's passage, Chiswell st. Lammas rd., Hackney com- mon Lanark villas, Edgware rd. Lancaster gate , Hyde park Lancaster road, Belsize pk. Lancaster rd., Notting hill Lancaster street, Boro' road Lancelot pi., Brompton road Lancing street, Euston sq. Landseer St., Lower Wands- worth road Langford pi., St. John's wood Langford rd., Kentish town Langham place, Regent st. / Langham st., Marylebone I Langley street, Long acre // Langton road , Camberwell New road Langton street, King's road Lansdowne house . . . . I Lansdowne place, Russell sq. Lansdowne rd.. London fields Lansdowne rd., South Lam- beth Lant street, Southwark . . Lark row. Cambridge road Larkhall lane, Claphara . . Latchmere grove, Battersea Latchmere road, Battersea Laurel street, Queen's road Laurence Pountney lane. Upper Thames street /// Lausanne mad. Nunhead . Lavender grove, i^ueen's rd. Lavender road Lawford road, Kentish town 64 55 46 24 LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL STREETS, B R G BEG Lawn road, Haverstock Mil Lawrence la., Cheapside /// Lawrence St., Cheyne walk Lawrence street, St. Giles / Lawson street, Gt. Dover st. Layard rd.. Blue Anchor rd. Laystall st.. Liquorpond st. Leadenliall market. Leaden- hall street ...... Ill Leadenhall street . . . /// Leader st.. Marlborough rd. Leamington rd. villas,West- bourne park Leather lane, Holborn hill // Lebanon street , Walworth common Ledbury road, Nottinghill. Lee street . Kingsland . . . Leek street. King's cross rd. Leete st., King's rd., Chelsea Lefevre road, Tredegar road Leicester place , Leicester square / Leicester square . . . . I Leicester st., Leicester sq. / Leigh street. Burton crescent Leighton grove. Kentish tn. Leigh ton road, Kentish town Leinster gardens, Bayswater Leinster road, Kilburn park Leinster square, Bayswater Leipsic road, Cam'berwell New road Leman st., Whitechapel /// Lenthall street. Dalston . . Leonard st., Tabernacle walk Lesly street, Barnsbury . . Lessada street, Grove'road Lever street, Goswell road Leverton st. , Kentish town Lewis St., Kentish town road Lewisham road, Greenwich Lewisham road, Xew Cross Lewisham rd. railway sta. Lewisham st.. Westminster IV Lexham rd.. Earl's court rd. Lexington street I Leyton road, Stratford . . Levton sq Lichfield street, Soho /, // Lillie road, Fulham .... Lillington st., Westminster Lime street passage, Leaden- hall street Ill Lime str. sq.. Lime str. /// Limehouse pier Limehouse railway station, Three Colt street .... Limerston street, Chelsea . Lincoln street. Mile end road 39! ilO 49 13 42 27 63 641 39 10 Lincoln's inn // Lincoln's inn fields . . . II Linden green , High street, Notting hill Linford st., Battersea fields Lingham st., Stockwell green Linsey st., Blue Anchor lane Linton st.. 5^ew Xorth road Lion street, Kew Kent road Lisle street, Leicester sq. I Lisson grove Lisson St., Marylebone road Litcham st. , Kentish town Little Albany st., Regent's park Little Alie st., Whitechapel III Little Argyle street, Regent street / Little Britain , Aldersgate street /// Little Cadogan pi., Sloane st. Little Cambridge st.. Hack- ney road Little Camden st., Camden town Little Chapel street,Wardour "treet / 1> !e Charlotte st. , Black- friars road Little Compton street, Soho I Little Dean street, Dean st., Soho / Little Earl street. Seven dials // Little Grove St., Lisson grove Little Guilford street, Bruns- wick square Little James street , Gray's inn road Little Marylebone street . . Little Newport street, Long acre / Little Northampton street, Goswell road Little Portland st., Regent street I Little Pultenev st. . Soho / Little Queen s*t., High Hol- born // Little Queen street, West- minster IV Little Russell st.,Bloomsbury // Little Saffron hill Little St. Andrew street, Upper St. Martin's lane // Little Store street, Bedford square / Little Sutton st.,Clerkenwell 39 SQUARES, PUBLIC BUILDINGS, etc. 25 B R G Little Titchfield street, Great Portland street . . . . I Little Torrington street, Tor- rington square Little Tower hill . . . /// Little Tower st., Eastcheap Little White Lion street, Seven dials Little Wild St., Great Wild street // Little Winchester st., Lon- don wall /// Livermore road , Dalston . Liverpool road Liverpool street station /// Liverpool street, King's cross Liverpool st. , Bishopsgate within /// Liverpool street , Walworth Lizard street, Radnor street Lloyd square, Pentonville • Loampit hill Loddiges road, Hackney . . Lodge place, Grove road . Lodge rd.. Park rd.. Regent's park Lombard road, Battersea . Lombard street, Fleet st. // Lombard st.. Mansion ho. /// Lombard street, Southwark bridge road London , Brighton & South Coast terminus , Victoria London bridge .... /// London bridge pier . . /// London bdg. railway sta. /// London , Chatham '&. Dover terminus, Holborn viad.// LondonCentralmeatmarket II London Commercial Sale rooms , Mincing lane /// London Crystal Palace ba- zaar. Great Portland st. I London docks, Wapping . London Fever hospital, Li verpool road Lond(jn fields, Hackney . London fields railway sta. Grosvenor place .... London hospital , Mount st east, Whitechapel road London lane , Mare street London & NorthWestern ter minus, Broad street . . , London & South Western terminus, Waterloo . . Londftn street, Greenwich London street, London road London street, Norfolk sq. 32 64 13 21 35 67 London street, Ratclifi" cross London university, Burling- ton gardens / London street, Tottenham court road London wall, Moorlields /// Long acre, Driiry lane . JI Long lane, Bermondsey . . Long lane. West Smitlifield Long street, Kingsland road Long walk, Bermondsey so. Longfellow rd.. Mile end rd. Longnor road, Bancroft road Longridge road, Earl's ct. rd. Lonsdale road, Notting hill Lonsdale square, Islington Lord's cricket ground, St. John's wood road .... Lorn road, Brixton road . . Lorrimore road, Walworth Lorrimore square. Walworth Lorrimore street, Walworth Lothbury, Coleman st. /// Lothian road, Camberwell New road Loudoun rd., St. John's wd. Loughborough junction rail- way sta., Coldharbour la. Loughborough road, Brixton road Loughborough street, Upper Kennington lane .... Love lane. Bow Love lane, Eastcheap . /// Love lane. Wood street, Cheapside /// Lovegrove st., Old Kent rd. Loveridge road Lower Berkeley St., Portman square . / Lower Belgrave st., Pimlico IV Lower Cal thorp st., Gray's inn road Lower Chapman st., Cannon street road Lower Clapton road .... Lower East Smithfield . . Lower George st., Sloane sq. Lower Grosvenor St., Gros- venor street IV Lower James street. Golden square / Lower John street, Golden square / Lower Kennigton lane . . Lower marsh, Lambeth . . Lower Phillimore pi., Ken- sington Lower Seymour St.. Portman square 26 LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL STREETS, BEG BEG Lower Thames street . /// Lower Whitecross street . Lower William St., High street, Portland town . . Lowndes place Lowndes square, Sloane st. Lowtherarcade. West Strand // Luard street, Caledonian rd. Lucas road , Walworth , . Lucas street , Commercial road east Lucas street, Rotherhithe . Lucey rd.. Blue Anchor lane Lucretia street, Lambeth . Ludgate circus // Ludgate hi., St.Paurs church yard // Ludgate hill railway station, New Bridge street . . II Luke street. Deal street . . Luke street, Finsbury . . . Luke St., Mile end New town Lupus street, Pimlico . . . Lyall pi., Eaton pi., Pimlico Lyall road, Roman rd., Bow Lyall St., Eaton pi., Pimlico Lvceum theatre, Wellington "street, Strand . ... II Lyme street, Camden town Lyndhurst grove, Peckham Lyndhurst rd., Hampstead . Lynton rd., Bermondsey . . Lyon street , Caledon. road Macclesfield street, Soho / Macclesfield st. nth.. City rd. Macclesfield st.sth..City rd. Maddox street, Regent st. / Magdalen St., Bermondsey Maida hill ". Maida vale Maiden lane, Cheapside III Maiden la.. Covent garden // Maidenhead ct., Aldersgate street /// Maidstone St., Hackney road Maitland park road, Haver- stock hill ........ Maitland pk. villas, Hayer- stock hill Maiden road, Prince of Wa- les road Mall, The, Kensington , . Mall, The, St. James's . . Maltby street, Bermondsey Malvern road, Dalston . ". Malvern road, Kilburn park Manchester rd.. Isle of Dogs Manchester square, Mary- lebone I a4 Manchester st. , Gray's inn rd. Manchester street, Manche- ster square / Mann st., Walworth common Manning street, Bermondsey Manor lane, Rotherhithe. . Manor place, Amhurst road. Hackney Manor place, Walworth road Manor road, Blue Anchor rd. Manor road, Wells street . Manor street, Chelsea . . . Manor street, Old Kent road Mansell st., Goodman's fields /// Mansfield pi., Kentish town Mansfield st.. Kingsland rd. Mansfield St., Portland pi. I Mansion house . . . . /// Mansion house place . /// Mansion house station, 3Ian- sion house Ill Mansion house st. , Lower Kennington lane .... Mape St., Bethnal green rd. Mapes lane , Edgware road Maplin street, Mile end road 3Iarble arch / Marchmont st. .Brunswick sq. Mare street. Hackney . . . Margaret St., Cavendish sq. / Margaret street. Haggerston Margaret street. Wells street Margaretst., Wilmingtonsq. Margareta terrace , Chelsea Maria street, Kingsland road Marigold street. Bermondsey Mark lane, Fenchurch St. /// Mark lane station . . . /// Mark street. Curtain road Market street, Bermondsey Market street. Borough road Market street. Caledonian rd. Market street. Edgware road Market street. Mayfair. . . Market street, Soho . . . I Markham square, Chelsea . Markham street, Chelsea . Marlborough house,Pall mall IV Marlborough hill, St. John's wood Marlborough pi., Harrow rd. Marlborough road, Chelsea Marlborough road, Dalston Marlborough rd., Old Kent rd. Marlborough road, Peckham Marlborough rd., St. John's wood Marlborough street. Black- friars road 32 49 5i 33 30 22 11 47 34 SQUARES, PURTJC r.UILDINOS, etc. 11 B R G B R O Marloes road, Kensington . Marquess road . Canonbury Marquis road, Camden town Marshall street, Golden sq. Marshall street, Southwark Marshamst.,Westminster/F Martha street, Cable street Martha street, Queen's road Martin's la., Cannon st. /// Mary street, Arlington square Mary street. Kingsland road Maryland road, Harrow rd. Marylebone High street . . Marylebone lane / Marylebone workho., Great Marylebone street . . . I Marylebone road Mason street. Old Kent road Matilda St., St. George's east Matilda street, Thornhill sq. Maude grove. Fulham road Maude road, Peckham road Mawbey st., South Lambeth Maxwell road, Fulham . . Maygrove road, Edgware rd. Mayville street , Kingsland Maze Pond, Southwark . • Meade's place , Newington causeway Meadow rd., S. Lambeth . Mecklenburgh square, Gray's inn road Medical Examination Hall // Medburn street. Camden tn. Median road. Clapton . . . Medway road. Roman road Medway st., Westminster IV Meetinghouse la., Peckham Melbourne sq.. Brixton rd. Melbury ter., Harewood sq. Melton street, Euston square Menotti street Mercer street, Long acre // Meredith street. Clerkenwell Mermaid court , Borough High street Merrow st., Walworth road Methley st., Milverton street Metropolitan Board ofWorks, Spring gardens. . , . IV 3Ietropolitan cattle market Metropolitan District rail- way, Mansion house /// Metropolitan meat & poultry market, Smithfield . . II Michael's grove , Brompton Middle Temple lane . . // Middlesex hospital, Charles street, Goodge street . / Middlesex st., Somers town 32 36 30 30 39 24 34 Middlesex st., \\h\w LaiH-1 HI Middletun road. Hull. .way Middleton mad, Kingsland Jlidland road, Kiiston rd. . Midland terminus, St. Pan- eras, Euston road .... Mildmay park. Stoke New- ington Mildmay grove north, Stoke Newington Mildmay grove south, Stoke Newington . . . ... . Mildmay rd.,Stoke Newington Mildmay street. Stoke New- ington Mile end road Miles street. South Lambeth Milford lane, Strand . . // Milk street, Cheapside /// Mill lane, Hampstead . . . Mill lane, Tooley street . . Mill row, Kingsland road . Mill street, Dockhead . . . Mill street, Hanover sq. / Mill street. Lambeth walk Mill yard. Leman street . . Millard road, Back road. . Millbank Millbank Penitentiary, Mill- ban k Millbank St., Westminster 77 Mill hill pi.. Welbeck st. I Millman street. Bedford row Millman's row. Kings road Millwall. Poplar Millwall docks Millwall dock railway sta- tion. Glengall road . . . Millwall junction railway sta. Millwall pier ' . . Milner square, Islington . . Milner street, Chelsea . . . Milner street, Islington . . Milton place. Dorset square Milton road. Old Ford road Milton St., Cripplegate /// 3Iilton street, Dorset sq. . Milton street. Finsbury . . Mina road. Old Kent mad Mincing la.. Fenchurch st./// Minerva street. Hackney rd. Jlinories /// 3Iint street, Borough . . . Mint street, Tower hill /// Mintern street. Hoxton . . Minto street, Bermondsey . Mitre court, Cheapside /// Jlitre street, Aldgate . /// Modbury ter.. Queen's cre.'f. Molynenx st., Edgware road | 56 26 42 66 52 43 28 LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL STREETS, B R G B R Q Monever street . East road Monkwell st.. Wood st. /// Monmoutli road, Bayswater Monnow rd..Blae Anchor rd. Montagu mews north. Mon- tagu sqxiare Montagu pi., Montagu sq. / Montagu square / Montagu street, Upper Ber- keley street / Montague close, Boro" . . . Montague ho.. Whitehall /F Montague ho., Portmansq. / Montague pi., Russell sq. /,// Montague road, Dalston . . Montague st., Russell sq. // Montague street. Spitaliields Monteith rd.. Old Ford road Montpelier pi. .Montpelier st. Montpelier road, Peckham Montpelierrow.Brompton rd. Montpelier sq..Bromptonrd. Montpelier St.. Montpelier sq. Montpelier street. Walworth Monument station. . . /// Monument yard. Fish street hill /// Moor lane, Fore street. Cripplegate /// Moor St., Crown St., Soho / Moore street, Chelsea . . . Moore park road, Fulham Moorgate railway station . Moorgate street .... /// Moreton place, Moreton st. Moreton st. , Belgrave road Moreton ter., Belgrave road Morgan street, Tredegar sq. Morgan's lane . Southwark Morning lane, Hackney . . Mornington crescent, Hamp- stead road Morningt(jn road, Bow road Mornington rd., Regent's pk. Morpeth road., Victoria pk. Morpeth street, Green street Morpeth ter., Victoria st. IV Morris road, Poplar .... Mortimer crescent. Kilburn Mortimer rd. ,DeBeauvoir tn. Mortimer road, Kilburn . . Mortimer St. , Cavendish sq. / Morton rd., New Xorth road Morville street, Bow . . . Moscow road, Bayswater . . Mostyn road, Stock well . . Mostyn rd., Tredegar road Motcomb street, Belgrave sq. Mount PleasantjGray's inn rd. Mount row, Berkeley sq. / Mount street. Berkeley sq. / 59 40 45 51 38 36 Mount street, Bethnal green Mount St., New rd.. White- chapel road Mountford road, Norfolk rd., Dalston Munster square, Regenfs pk. Munster street, Piegenfs pk. Murray street , Camden sq. Murray st.. New North rd. Museum st., Bloomsbury // Myddelton sq., Pentonville Myddelton st., Clerkenwell Myddleton pi., Sadler's wells Mylne street, Claremont sq. Myrtle street, Dalston . . . Myrtle street, Hoxton . . . Nailour st., Caledonian rd. Napier street, Hoxton . . . Narrow street, Ratcliff cross Nassau street, Middlesex hospital / Nassau street, Soho . . . I National Gallery, Trafalgar square / Natural History museum, Cromwell road National Liberal club . IV Navarino road. Dalston . . Naylor's yard, Silver street Neate street , Coburg road, Old Kent road Neckinger road,Bermondsey Nelson sq., Blackfriars road Nelson street, Bethnal green Nelson st. . Commercial rd. ea. Nelson street, Greenwich . Nelson street, Hackney road Nelson street. Long lane . Nelson st., Wyndham road Neptune street, Church st., Rotherhithe Neptune st.. South Lambeth Netherwood street. Kilburn Netley st.. Hampstead road Neville street, Onslow sq. Neville street, Vauxhall. . New Bond st., Oxford st. / New Bridge st.. Blackfriars // New Broad St.. London wall /// New Burlington house, Pic- cadilly / New Burlington street, Re- gent street / New Cavendish street, Port- land place / New Church rd..Camberwell New Church road. Wells st. New Church st., Bermondsev 48 52 28 49 58 26 23 52 51 48 53 54 39 SQUARES, PUBLIC BUILDINGS, etc. 29 B R G New Compton st., Soho /, // New Cross railway station New Cross road New cut, Lambeth .... New Gloucester st., Hoxton New Government offices IV New Gravel lane, Wapping 40 26 ,50 New inn, Wych St.. Strand//! . 31 New inn street. Curtain rd. |44 New Kent road New King street. Deptford New King's road, Fulham . New Lambeth street. . . . New Nichols st., Shoreditch New North road New North st., Red Lion sq. New Ormond st., Queen sq. New Oxford street . . . II New Palace yard, West- minster IV New Peter st., Westminster New Quebec street, Port- man square / New road, Rotherhithe . . New road. Wandsworth rd. New rd., Whitechapel road New sq., Lincoln's inn . // New St., Bath St., City road New St., Bishopsgate st. /// New street , Borough road New street. Brompton. . . New street, Covent garden // New street , Dorset square New street, Golden square / Newst., Kennington pk. rd. New street. New road, Whitechapel New street , Portland town New street. Vincent square New Tothill street, West- minster IV NewWeston st.. Bermondsey New York st.,Bethnal green Newcastle street, Farringdon street // Newcastle street. Strand // Newcastle st., Whitechapel Newgate prison, Old Bailey // Newgate street . . //, /// Newington butts Newington causeway . . . Newington green road . . . Newland street, Pimlico. . Newman street. Oxford st. / Newnham st.. Edgware road Newton rd..Westbournegro. Newton St.. Cavendish st. Newton st.. High Holborn // | Nicholas la.. Lombard st. /// Nicholas street. Hoxton . . Nicholas st.. Mile end road 52 51 34 25 33 561 Nichnls row. Bethnal grn. rd. Nichols scjuare. Hackney rd. Nightingale lano, St. Kathe- rine's docks Nile street, Hoxton .... Nine Elms lane . Vauxhall Nine Elms pier.NineElms la. Nine Elms station Noble street, Cheapside /// Noble street. Falcon sq. /// Noble street, Gosvvell road Noble street. Spaflelds . . Noel street. Islington , . . Noel street, Soho . . . . / Norfolk cres., Edgware road Norfolk road. Dalston lane Norfolk road. Lslington . . Norfolk road, St. John's wd. Norfolk row, Church street, Lambeth Norfolk sq., Sussex gardens Norfolk St.. Cambridge rd. Norfolk street, Essex road Norfolk street, Globe road Norfolk street. Park lane / Norfolk street, Strand . // Norfolk terrace. Bayswater Norman road. Old Ford . . Norman street, Chelsea . . Norman's buildgs.. St. Luke's North Bank. Regent's park North End road. Fulham . North row. Grosvenor sq. / North St.. Limehouse fields North street. Maida hill . . North St.. Manchester sq. / North street. Mare street . North street, Pentonville . North street, Sloane street North street. Smith sq. IV North street. Walworth . . North Audley st.. Oxford st. North Wharfrd..raddington Northampton rd.Clerkenwell Northampton square, Gos- well road Northampton street, Gos- well road Northampton St., Islington Northport St.. New North rd. Northumberland alley, Fen- church street Northumberland avenue IV Northumberland place. Ar- tesian road Northumberland street. Mary- lebone / Northumberland st., Strand IV Northwick ter.. Maida hill Notting hill, High street . 46 44 56 60 37 12 30 LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL STREETS, B R G R G Netting hill gate station . . Netting hill grove .... Netting hill square .... Nottingham pi., Marylebone Nottingham st. .Marylebone / Nutford place, Edgware rd. Oakden st..Kenningtonroad Oakley road, Southgate rd. Oakley square Oakley street, Chelsea . . Oakley street, Westminster bridge road Oakley street. Bethnal green Oat lane. Noble st.. Falcon square /// Ocean street, Stepney . . . Ockenden road, Essex road Office of Works & Public buildings, Whitehall IV Ofiford rd., Caledonian road Old Bailey, Newgate street // Old Bethnal Green road . . Old Bond st., Piccadilly / Old Broad street. Thread- needle street .... /// Old Brompton road .... Old Burlington street . . / Old Castle st., Bethnal grn. Old Castle st., Whitechapel Old Cavendish street . . / Old Change, Cheapside III Old Church road. Commer- cial road east Old Compton street, Soho / Old Ford railway station, Old Ford road Old Ford railway station, Coborn road Old Ford road. Bow . . . Old Gravel lane, Wapping Old Jewry, Cheapside . /// Old Kent road Old Kent rd. railwav sta. Old King street, De'ptford Old Montague street, White- chapel Old Nichols St., Shoreditch Old Palace yard, West- minster IV OidPye St., Westminster IV Old Quebec street, Port- man square / Old Rochester row . . IV Old St. Pancras road . . . Old square, Lincoln's inn // Old street, St. Luke's . . . Old Swan pier . ... Ill Olympic theatre, Wych st. // Omega place, St. John'swood Onslow crescent. Bromptoii 48 33 33 50 48 48| . '25 . |25 . 19 . ^21 27 . ^31 40 40 . |42 . 31 16 Onslow grdns.,We. Bromptn. Onslow square, Brompton . Onslow vils., We. Brompton Opera Comique, Holywell st. // Orange street. Borough . . Orange st., Leicester square /, // Orange st., Red Lion sq. // Orb street, Walworth . . . Orchard place, Clarence rd,, Clapton Orchard street , Essex road Orchard st., Portman sq. / Orchard st., Westminster IV Ordnance rd., St. John's wd. Oxford St., Marlborough rd. Oriel road, Homerton . . . Oriental club, Hanover sq. / Orme square, Bayswater rd. Ormonde ter., Primrose hill Orsett street , Vauxhall st. Orsett ter., Gloucester gdns. Orwell road. Bow Osborn pi., Whitechapel III Osborne pi.. South Lambeth Oseney cres., Kentish town Osnaburgh street Osprey street, Rotherhithe Ossery road, Old Kent road Ossington street, Bayswater Ossulston St., Somers town Otto St., Kennington park Outram st., Copenhagen st. Oval, Hackney road .... Oval, Kennington Oval road, Clapham road . Ovington square, Brompton Ovington street, Chelsea . Owen street, King's road . Owen St., St. John st. road Owen's row, St. John st. rd. Oxenden street / Oxford mansions, Oxford st./ Oxford road, Islington . . Oxford road, Kilburn park Oxford square, Edgware rd. Oxford street / Oxford street, Whitechapel Oxford ter., Edgware road. Oxford & Camb. club. Pall mall IV Packington street, Essex rd. Paddington green Paddington railway station Paddington recreation ground Paddington St., Marylebone/ Page street, Westminster . Pakenham st.,King's Cross rd 25 24 24 28 32 Palace gardens, Kensington I . 37 13 29 31 34 25 SQUARES, PUBLIC BUILDINGS, etc. ;3i B R G B R G Palace gate, Kensington . . Palace street, Pimlico . lY Pall Mall IV Pall Mall East . . . /, 77 Palm street, Grove road . Palmer place, Holloway rd. Palmer's passage. Little Chapel street . ... IV Palmerston road, Kilburn . Palmerston terrace. Lower Wandsworth road .... Pancras lane. Queen st. Ill Panton street, Haymarket / Panyer alley , Paternoster row Ill Paradise place. Hackney . Paradise place, Essex road Paradise road, Clapham rd. Paradise street, Chelsea . . Paradise street, Finsbury . Paradise street, Gray's inn road ' . . . Paradise street, Lambeth . Paradise St., Marylebone I Paradise street, Rotherhithe Paragon, New Kent road . Paragon road, Hackney . . Paris street, Lambeth . IV Parish street, Horselydown Park crescent. Regent's park Park crescent, Stockwell . Park crescent mews west, Marylebone road .... Park grove, Lower Wands- worth road Park lane, Dorset square . Park lane, Hyde park /, IV Park pi., St. James's street IV Park place, Paddington . . Park road. Bridge road . . Park road, Chelsea .... Park road, Dalston .... Park road, Haverstock hill Park road , Regent's park Park side street , Lower Wandsworth road . . , Park sq. east. Regent's pk. Park sq. west. Regent's park Park St., Borough market Park street, Camden town Park street, Dorset square Park St., East rd.. City rd. Park St., Grosvenor sq. I Park street, Limehouse . . Park St., "Victoria park rd. Park village east n . . . Queen's road railway sta- tion, Peckham Queen's road, Peckham . . Queen's rd., St. John's wood Queen's road east, Chelsea Queen's road west, Chelsea Queen's thcat.. Long acre. II Queen's ter., St. John's wd. Queensborongh ter., Bays- water Queensbury st., Islington . Quex road, Kilburn .... Radnor pi., Gloucester sq. Radnor st., Bath st., City rd. Radnor street, Chelsea . . Radnorstreet, Sth. Lambeth Raglan street , Kenti.sh tn. Rahere street, Gctswell rd. Railway street, York road, King's cross Randall street, Bridge road, Battersea Randolph cresc, Maida vale Randolph grdns., Kilburn pk. Randolph road, Maida hill Ranelagh grove, Pimlico . Ranelagh rd., Thames bank Rathbone pi., Oxford st. / Raven row, Whitechapel rd. Ravenscroft st.. Hackney rd. Ravensdon street, Kenning- ton park road Rawlings st., Cadogan st. Rawstorne street, St. John street road Ray street. Clerkenwell . . Rayment road, Grove road Raymond build., Gray's inn// Raymouth road , Blue An- chor road Record office (Public), Chan- cery lane // Rectory grove, Clapham. . Rectory sq., Whitehorse la. Red Lion passage. Red Lion street Red Lion square, High Hol- born // Red Lion street, Clerken- well green Red Lion street. High Hol- born // Red Lion yard, Old Caven- dish street / 111 34 LIST OF TilE PRINCIPAL STREETS, BUG B R 6 Redclifl'e grdns., W. Bromp- ton Redclifife sq.,WestBromptn. Redcliffe street, Redcliflesq. Redcross st., Cripplegate /// Redcross street, Southwark Redhill st., Regenfs park Redman's row, Stepney grn. Redmead lane, Wapping . Redworth st., Kennington rd. Reeve's mews, Grosvenor sq . Reform club. Pall mall IV Regency street Regent circus, Oxford st. / Regent square, Gray's inn rd. Regent street / Regent street, Chelsea . . Regent street, City road. . Regent st., Lambeth walk Regent street, Limehouse . Regent's park Regent's pk. road, Regent's park Regent's row, Queen's road Remington street, City rd. Renfrew road. Lower Ken- nington lane Retreat place. Hackney . . Rheidol terrace, Islington , Rhodeswell rd., Limehouse Rhyl St., Weedington road Ricardo st.. Poplar New tn. Richard st., Liverpool rd. Richardson st., Bermondsey Richmond cres., Islington Richmond grove, Barnsbnry Richmond rd., Caledonian rd. Richmond road, Dalston. . Richmond rd., Westbourne grove Richmond st., Edgware rd. Richmondst., St. George's rd. Richmond street, St. Luke's Richmond street, Soho . / Richmond st. . Southwark Richmond, st. Thornhill sq. Richmond ter., Whitehall ir Ridinghouse St., Regent St. / Ridley road, Dalston . . . Riley street. King's road . Riley street, Russell street Risinghill st River st. .Essex rd. , Islington River st., Myddelton square River street, York road, King's cross Riverhallst., South Lambeth Robert street, Adelphi . // Robert st., Grosvenor sq. / Robert street,Hampstead rd. 32 33 25 33 27 // Robert St., High st., Hoxton Robert street. King's road, Chelsea Robin Hood lane, East India dock road Robinson rd., Victoria park Rochester pi., Camden road Rochester rd., Camden town Rochester row IV Rochester sq., Camden town Rochester ter. , Camden town Rockingham street, Newing- ton causeway ' Rodney rd., New Kent road Rodney street, Pentonville Roland gdns., Brompton rd. Rollo street. Lower Wands- worth road Rolls buildings. Fetter la. // Rolls chapel, Chancery la. // Rolls road, Bermondsey Rolls yard. Chancery la. Roman road, Barnsbnry . . Roman road. Bow .... Romney St., Westminster IV Rood la., Fenchurch st. /// Ropemaker street, Finsbury Roseberry street, Dalston . Rosemary road, Peckham . Rosetta st., South Lambeth Roslyn park Rosoman street, Clerkenwell Rotherfield street, Islington Rotherhithe New road . , . Rotherhithe street Rotherhithe wall Rotten row IV Rouel road, Bermondsey . Roupell street, Cornwall rd. Royal Academy, Burlington house, Piccadilly . . . I Royal Academy of Music / Royal avenue, Chelsea . . Royal Catholic chapel . / Royal College of Surgeons, Lincoln's inn fields. . // Royal Exchange, Cornhill /// Royal Exchange buildings Royal hospital, Greenwich Royal mews, Pimlico . . . Royal Military asylum, King's road Royal Mint st., Minories /// Royal Naval asylum, Green- wich Royal Oak railway station, Celbridge place Royal Ophthalmic hospital, Bloomfield street . . /// Royal road, Walworth . . Royal street, Carlisle street 44 67 21 37 31 50 45 44 29 SgUAKES, I'UBIJC HL'JLDINGS, etc. 35 B R G B R O Royal victualling yard, Dept- ford Royalty theatre, Dean st. / Rndolph road , Kilburn pk. Rupert street, Haymarket / Rupert street, Whitechapel Rushton street, Hoxton . . Rushton St., New Nth. rd. Russell square, Bloomsbury Russell St., Bermondsey St. Russell St., Covent garden // Russell street, LowerWands- worth road Russian greek chapel . , / Russia lane, Bethnal green Rutland gate, Knightsbridge Rutland mews. Rutland gate, Knightsbridge Rutland st., Hampstead rd. Rutland st., Kingsland road Rutland street, Pimlico . . Rutland st., Soiith Lambeth Rutland st., Victoria park Rutland street. Whitechapel Ryder street, St. James's IV Rye lane, Peckham .... Sable street, Halton road . Sackville street, Piccadilly / St. Alban's place . . . . / St. Alban's rd., Kensington St. Alban's street, Lambeth St. Andrew's ch., Holborn // St. Andrew's street, Holborn circus // St. Andrew's street, Wands- worth road St. Ann St., Orchard st. /// St. Ann's court. Dean st. / St. Ann's st.. Westm. .IV St. Anne's church, Dean st. / St. Augustine's road, Cam- den town St. Augustine's & Faith church. Old Change . /// St. Bartholomew's hospital, West Smithfield . //, III St. Bene't place, Grace- church street .... /// St. Botolph ch., Aldgate III St. Bride street. Fleet st. // St. Bride's ch.. Fleet st. // St. Clement Danes church, Strand // St. Clement's inn, Strand // 8t. David st., Falmouth rd. St. Dunstan's hill, Lower Thames street St. Dunstan's -in- the -east ch.. Great Tower st. /// St. Dunstan's - in - the - west. Fleet street II 55 38 55 27 26 24 St. Edmund's terrace, Re- gents park St. Ethelburga, Bishopsgate III St.George's cathedral fR.C), Westminster bridge road St. George's church, Blooms- bury // St. George's church, Hano- ver square / St. George's barracks . . / St. George's hall, Langham place / St. George's hospital, Hyde park corner ' IV St. George's road, Battersea fields St. George's rd.. Camberwell St. George's road. Pimlico / St. George's rd. .Regent's pk. St. George's rd., Southwark St. George's row. Ebury bdg. St. George's square, Pimlico St. George's street, Battersea St. George's street, London docks St. George's ter.. Hyde pk. St. Giles in Fields, High street, St. Giles . . . II St. Helen's, Bishopsgate /// St. Helen's place, Bishops- gate street. ..... /// St. James's church, Picca- dilly / St. James's grove, Lower Wandsworth road .... St. James's hall, Piccadilly / St. James's palace. Pall mall IV St. James's park, West- minster IV St. James's road, Holloway St. James's rd.. Old Kent rd". St. James's rd., Victoria pk. St. James's square . . IV St. James's st., Clerkcnwell St. James's st., Islingtim . St. James's St., Pall mall IV St. James's theatre. King street. St. James . . . IV St. John street, Islington . St. John street, West Smith- field II St. John St. rd., Clerkenwell St. John's lane. Clerkenv/ell St. John's road, Deptford New town St. John's road, Hoxton . . St. John's sq., Clerkcnwell St. John's St.. Smith's scj. St. John's wood park . . 33 49 22 64 43 10 36 LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL STREETS, B R G St. John's wood road ... 12 St. .lohn's wood terrace . . 11 St. .Tude's St., Ball's Pond rd. 41 St. Julian's road, Kilburn . St. Katherine Cree, Leaden- hall street /// St. Katherine's, Regent's pk. 19 St. Katherine's wharf . /// St. Katherine's docks . /// St. Leonard street, Bow. . 68 St. Leonard's road .... St. Leonard's ter., Chelsea hospital St. Luke's road, Westbourne park St. Magnus the Martyr, Fish street hill /// St. Margaret's church, Broad- way, Westminster . . IV St. Margaret's church, Loth- bury /// St. Mark's church . . . . / St. Mark's rd., Camberwell St. Mark's St., Goodman's fields /// St. Martin - in - the -Fields church , Trafalgar sq. // St. Martin's lane, Trafalgar square // St. Martin's-le-Grand . /// St. Martin's place, Trafalgar square // St. Martin's street, Leicester square / St. Mary Aldermary church, Bow lane St. Mary-at-hill , Eastcheap /// St. Mary Axe, Leadenhall street /// St. Mary -le- Bow church, Cheapside Ill St. Mary-le-Strand church, Strand // St. Mary Magdalene church, Bermondsey street . . . St. Mary Woolnoth church, Lombard street . . . /// St. Mary'schurch, Temple II St. Mary's road, Canonbury St. Mary's road, Queen's rd. St.Mary'ssq.,Kenningtonrd. St. Marylebone ch., Maryle- bone road St. Matthias road, Stoke Newington 41 St. Michael's ch., Chester sq. St. Michael's ch., Cornhill/// St. Olave's church, Tooley street /// St. Pancras ch., Euston sq. 28 43 67 St. Pancras goods station. Agar town St. Patrick's terrace, Fal- mi)uth road St. Paul's cathedral . . /// St. Paul's church, Covent garden // St. Paul's churchyard . /// St. Paul's cres., Camden road St. Pauls pi., St. Paul's rd. St. Pauls pier. Up. Thames street II, HI St. Paul's road. Bow . . . St. Paul's road, Camden sq. St. Paul's road, Islington . St. Paul's road, Walworth St. Paul's station, Blackfriars // St. Peter street. Hackney rd. St. Peter street, Islington . St. Peter's ch., Cornhill /// St. Peter's ch., Pimlico IV St. Peter's rd., Mile end rd. St. Petersburgh place, Bay.s- water St.Philipp's rd.,Kingsld.rd. St. Saviour's church, London bridge /// St. Sepulchre church. Snow hill // St. Stephen's church, Wal- brook Ill St. Stephen's road. Bow . . St. Stephen's road, West- bourne park St. Stephen's square, West- bourne park St. Swithin's lane, King William street . . . /// St. Swithin's, London Stone church, Cannon street /// St. Thomas's church and school / St. Thomas'shospital, Albert embankment .... IV St. Thomas's place, Hackney St.Thomas'sch., Borough /// St. Thomas square. Hackney St. Thomas's street, Boro' St. Thomas street east, Boro' St. Thomas street. Islington St. Vincent st., Charles st. Sale street, Edgware road Salisbury ct., Fleet st. // Salisbury lane, Bermondsey wall Salisbury st., Lisson grove Salisbury street, Strand // Salmon lane , Limehouse . Bancroft st Sandringham road, Dalston 27 34 35 46 59 29 45 SQUARES, PTT.TJC r.FTLDTNr.S, otr. B R G Sandwich st., Burton ores. Sandy's ruw, Kisbopsgate street /// Sanger's Amphitheatre IV Sarah street, Burdett road Savage gardens, Tower hill Savile row , Burlington gardens / Saville place, Lambeth walk Saville street, Langham st. / Savona street, Nine elms . Savoy church , Strand . // Savoy street, Strand . . // Saxon rd., St. Stephen's rd. Scarborough st.. Goodman's fields Ill Scarsdale villas, Kensington Scotland yard, Whitehall JV Scnitton st Seabright st., Hackney road Seagrave road , Fulham . . Sebbon street, Canonburysq. Sedan street, Walworth . . Seething lane, Tower hill /// Sekforde street, Clerkenwell Selborne road , Camberwell Selby street. Bethnal green Selwood place. Queen's elm Selwood terrace, Fulham rd. Senior road, Harrow road . Selwin road, Plaistow . . . Serjeant.s'inn,Chunceryla.// Serjeants' inn, Fleet st. // Serle st., Lincoln's inn fields Sermon la., Dctctors'com. JIJ Sermon la.,WhiteConduit st. Seven Dials // Seville st Seward street. Goswell road Sewardstone rd., Victoria pk. Seymour pi., Bryanston sq. Seymour place. Fulham road Seymour St., Portmnn sq. / Shacklewell la.,Kingsland rd. Sbacklewell road Shad Thames, Horselydown Shndwell railway station, Sutton street east . , . , Shaftesbury avenue . /, // Shaftesbury street, Hoxton Shalc(tmb street, King's road Sharpie's Hall st., Regent's Park road Shar.'ifead st., Kensington pk. Shawlield street. King's road Sheffield ter., Campden hill Shellwood rd.,Latchmere rd. Shepherd street, Mayfair IV Shepherdess walk . Hoxton Shepherd's lane, Homerton Shepherds market, Mayfair 60 GO 35 .^ilieplierd's st., SpitaKields SheppiTton road Sherborne la.. King William street /// Sherborne pi., Blandford scj. Sherborne st., Blandford sq. Sheridan street, Commercial road east Sherwood st., Gidden sq. / Shipton street. Hackney rd. Shirland rd., St. Peter' .s pk. Shoe lane. Fleet street . // Shoemaker street . ... II Shore road , Hackney . . . Sh(jreditch High street . . Shoreditch railway stati^ "V^o^. 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