BLACK BEAJ®E 
 BAVARIAN 
 
 MAIUAJ^ KEITH 
 
GIFT OF 
 HORACE W. CARFENTIER 
 
PILGRIM Congregational CH0IK3H. 
 St. Louis, Mo. 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 
 in 2008 with funding from 
 
 IVIicrosoft Corporation 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/blackbeardedbarbOOmaririch 
 

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 George L. Mackay 
 
 THE BUSIEST MAN IN ALL CHINA 
 
 [See page 208] 
 
THE BLACK BEARDED 
 BARBARIAN 
 
 THE LIFE OF 
 
 GEORGE LESLIE MACKAY 
 
 OF FORMOSA 
 
 BY 
 
 MARIAN KEITH ^v='-^<^-c/j 
 
 J. yf^c^^^^^^^ , yyr^ ' yv^j-/ 
 
 NEW YORK 
 
 MISSIONARY EDUCATION MOVEMENT 
 
 OF THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA 
 
 1912 
 

 Copyright, 1912, by 
 
 MISSIONARY EDUCATION MOVEMENT OF THE 
 
 UNITED STATES AND CANADA 
 
 (^m>Mmmn: : -: 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER PA.GE 
 
 Foreword ix 
 
 I Splitting Eocks , 1 
 
 II A Voyage of Discovery 13 
 
 HI Reconnoitering the Territory 35 
 
 IV Beginning the Siege 57 
 
 V Soldiers Two 81 
 
 VI The Great Kai Bok-su 101 
 
 VII Besieging Head-hunters 121 
 
 VIII Cities Captured and Forts Built 147 
 
 IX Other Conquests 175 
 
 X Reenforcements 201 
 
 XI Unexpected Bombardment 225 
 
 XII Triumphal March . 255 
 
 XIII The Land Occupied 283 
 
 Index 301 
 
 mimmti7 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 PAGE 
 
 George L. Mackay — ' * The Busiest Man in all China ' ' 
 
 Frontispiece 
 
 Tamsui — '^This Is Your Parish, Mackay '' 29 
 
 **You'll Be Calling This the Queen ^s Hotel Before You've 
 
 Been Here Long'' 47 
 
 A Hoa—*' This Was His Man!" 75 
 
 '*We Shall Go to Kelung First" 89 
 
 **Next, Any One Who Wanted a Tooth Pulled Was Invited 
 
 to Come Forward" 113 
 
 *'The Head-hunters Were Armed to the Teeth" . . .131 
 
 '* Barbarians of the Plain" 179 
 
 Mackay and His Students on a Tour 205 
 
 The Rev. J. B, Fraser, M. D. — * * Besides Being an Ordained 
 
 Minister, He Was a Physician as Well " 213 
 
 Mrs. George L. Mackay — '*But as Mrs. Mackay She 
 
 Proved of Marvelous Assistance to Her Husband" . 217 
 "Oxford College Stood Just Overlooking the Tamsui 
 
 Eiver" 221 
 
 "In the Town of Tao-liong-pong Was the Home of Koa 
 
 Kau" 233 
 
 Bang-kah Chapel — "Look Now, the Chapel Towers Above 
 
 Our Temple" 251 
 
 Dr. G. L. Mackay, Wife, and Three Children . . . .287 
 Mr. and Mrs. George Mackay — **With His Canadian Wife, 
 
 Has Gone Back to His Native Land" 299 
 
 Colored Map of Formosa End 
 
 ^ vu 
 
FOREWORD 
 
 This is a very little story of a very great 
 man. It contains only a few of the wonder- 
 ful adventures he met, and the splendid 
 deeds he did. Most of them may never be 
 written. Perhaps they may be lived again 
 in the lives of some of the readers. Who 
 knows ? 
 
 Even this brief account of Dr. Mackay's 
 life could not have been written had it not 
 been for the help of many kind friends. The 
 Rev. R. P. Mackay, D. D., of Toronto, Can- 
 ada, who visited Formosa, and met many of 
 the people mentioned in this story, gave me 
 great assistance. Mr. Alexander Mackay, 
 brother of the hero of this book, was very 
 kind in telling many interesting tales of boy- 
 hood days in Zorra. My most untiring and 
 painstaking assistant has been the Rev. J. B. 
 Eraser, M. D., of Annan, Ontario, formerly 
 
FOREWORD 
 
 of Formosa. You will find him among the 
 many heroes of this story. To his kind and 
 careful oversight is due much that gives this 
 little book any value as a history. The life 
 of Dr. Mackay in From Far Formosa, com- 
 piled by Dr. J. A. MacDonald, editor of the 
 Toronto Glohe, has been my chief source of 
 information. Indeed this story has been 
 taken almost entirely from its pages, and 
 owes Dr. MacDonald much thanks. 
 
 And now there is just one more favor it 
 asks, that you who read it may in some 
 measure strive to catch the great spirit of 
 its hero. 
 
 Marian Keith. 
 
 Toronto, Canada, April 24, 1912. 
 
SPLITTING ROCKS 
 
THE BLACK BEARDED 
 BARBARIAN^ 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 SPLITTING ROCXS 
 
 UP in the stony pasture-field behind the 
 barn the boys had been working all 
 the long afternoon. Nearly all, that is, for, 
 being boys, they had managed to mix a good 
 deal of fun with their labor. But now they 
 were tired of both work and play, and won- 
 dered audibly, many times over, why they 
 were not yet called home to supper. 
 
 The work really belonged to the Mackay 
 boys, but, like Tom Sawyer, they had made 
 it so attractive that several volunteers had 
 come to their aid. Their father was putting 
 up a new stone house, near the old one down 
 
 ^ The name by which George Leslie Mackay was 
 known among the Chinese of north Formosa. 
 
 S 
 
4 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 there behind the orchard, and the two 
 youngest of the family had been put at the 
 task of breaking the largest stones in the 
 fieldu 
 
 It meant only to drag some underbrush 
 and wood from the forest skirting the farm, 
 pile them on the stones, set fire to them, 
 and let the heat do the rest. It had 
 been grand sport at first, they all voted, 
 better than playing shinny, and almost as 
 good as going fishing. In fact it was a kind 
 of free picnic, where one could play at 
 Indians all day long. But as the day wore 
 on, the picnic idea had languished, and the 
 stone-breaking grew more and more to re- 
 semble hard work. 
 
 The warm spring sunset had begun to 
 color the western sky; the meadow-larks 
 had gone to bed, and the stone-breakers 
 were tired and ravenously hungry — as hun- 
 gry as only wolves or country boys can be. 
 The visitors suggested that they ought to be 
 going home. **Hold on, Danny, just till this 
 one breaks," said the older Mackay boy, as 
 he set a burning stick to a new pile of brush. 
 
SPLITTING ROCKS 
 
 *^ This '11 be a dandy, and it's the last, too. 
 They're sure to call us to supper before 
 we've time to do another." 
 
 The new fire, roaring and snapping, send- 
 ing up showers of sparks and filling the air 
 with the sweet odor of burning cedar, 
 proved too alluring to be left. The company 
 squatted on the ground before it, hugging 
 their knees and watching the blue colmnn of 
 smoke go straight up into the colored sky. 
 It suggested a camp-fire in war times, and 
 each boy began to tell what great and daring 
 deeds he intended to perform when he be- 
 came a man. 
 
 Jimmy, one of the visitors, who had been 
 most enthusiastic over the picnic side of the 
 day's work, announced that he was going 
 to be a sailor. He would command a fleet 
 on the high seas, so he would, and capture 
 pirates, and grow fabulously wealthy on 
 prize-money. Danny, who was also a guest, 
 declared his purpose one day to lead a band 
 of rough riders to the Western plains, 
 where he would kill Indians, and escape 
 fearful deaths by the narrowest hairbreadth. 
 
6 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 ^^Mebbe I'm goin' to be Premier of Can- 
 ada, some day," said one youngster, poking 
 his bare toes as near as he dared to the 
 flames. 
 
 There were hoots of derision. This was 
 entirely too tame to be even considered as a 
 career. 
 
 **And what are you going to be, G. L.?" 
 inquired the biggest boy of the smallest. 
 
 The others looked at the little fellow and 
 laughed. George Mackay was the youngest 
 of the group, and was a small wiry young- 
 ster with a pair of flashing eyes lighting up 
 his thin little face. He seemed far too small 
 and insignificant to even think about a 
 career. But for all the difference in their 
 size and age the bigger boys treated little 
 George with a good deal of respect. For, 
 somehow, he never failed to do what he set 
 out to do. He always won at races, he was 
 never anywhere but at the head of his class, 
 he was never known to be afraid of anything 
 in field or forest or school ground, he was 
 the hardest worker at home or at school, and 
 by sheer pluck he managed to do everything 
 
SPLITTING ROCKS 
 
 that boys bigger and older and stronger 
 could do. 
 
 So when Danny asked, ^^And what are 
 you going to be, G. L.?" though the boys 
 laughed at the small thin little body, they 
 respected the daring spirit it held, and lis- 
 tened for his answer. 
 
 **He's goin' to be a giant, and go off with 
 a show," cried one, and they all laughed 
 again. 
 
 Little G. L. laughed too, but he did not 
 say what he intended to do when he grew big. 
 Down in his heart he held a far greater am- 
 bition than the others dreamed of. It was 
 too great to be told — so great he scarcely 
 knew what it was himself. So he only shook 
 his small head and closed his lips tightly, 
 and the rest forgot him and chattered on. 
 
 Away beyond the dark woods, the sunset 
 shone red and gold between the black tree 
 trunks. The little boy gazed at it wonder- 
 ingly. The sight of those morning and eve- 
 ning glories always stirred his child's soul, 
 and made him long to go away — away, he 
 knew not where — ^to do great and glorious 
 
■ 6 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 deeds. The Mackay boys' grandfather had 
 fought at Waterloo, and little George Leslie, 
 the youngest of six, had heard many, many 
 tales of that gallant struggle, and every time 
 they had been told him he had silently re- 
 solved that, some day, he too would do just 
 such brave deeds as his grandfather had 
 done. 
 
 As the boys talked on, and the little fellow 
 gazed at the sunset and dreamed, the big 
 stone cracked in two, the fire died down, and 
 still there came no welcome call to supper 
 from any of the farmhouses in sight. The 
 Mackay boys had been trained in a fine old- 
 fashioned Canadian home, and did not 
 dream of quitting work until they were sum- 
 moned. But the visitors were merely vis- 
 itors, and could go home when they liked. 
 The future admiral of the pirate-killing 
 fleet declared he must go and get supper, or 
 he'd eat the grass, he was so hungry. The 
 coming Premier of Canada and the Indian- 
 slayer agreed with him, and they all jumped 
 the fence, and went whooping away over the 
 .soft brown fields toward home. 
 
SPLITTING ROCKS 9 
 
 There was just one big stone left. It was 
 a huge boulder, four feet across. 
 
 ''We'll never get enough wood to crack 
 that, G. L.," declared his brother. ''It just 
 can't be done." 
 
 But little George answered just as any one 
 who knew his determination would have ex- 
 pected. In school he astonished his teacher 
 by learning everything at a tremendous rate, 
 but there was one small word he refused to 
 learn — the little word "can't." His bright 
 eyes flashed now, at the sound of it. He 
 jumped upon the big stone, and clenched his 
 fist. 
 
 "It's got to be broken!" he cried. "I 
 won't let it beat me." He leaped down, and 
 away he ran toward the woods. His brother 
 caught his spirit, and ran too. They forgot 
 they were both tired and hungry. They 
 seized a big limb of a fallen tree and dragged 
 it across the field. They chopped it into 
 pieces, and piled it high with plenty of 
 brush, upon the big stone. In a few minutes 
 it was all in a splendid blaze, leaping and 
 crackling, and sending the boys' long shad- 
 ows far across the field. 
 
10 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 The fire grew fiercer and hotter, and sud- 
 denly the big boulder cracked in four pieces, 
 as neatly as though it had been slashed by a 
 giant's sword. Little G. L. danced around 
 it, and laughed triumphantly. The next mo- 
 ment, there came the welcome '^hoo-hoo'^ 
 from the house behind the orchard, and 
 away the two scampered down the hill to- 
 ward home and supper. 
 
 When the day's work of the farmhouse 
 had been finished, the Mackay family gath- 
 ered about the fire, for the spring evening 
 was chilly. George Leslie sat near his 
 mother, his face full of deep thought. It 
 was the hour for family worship, and always 
 at this time he felt most keenly that longing 
 to do something great and glorious. To- 
 night his father read of a Man who was 
 sending out his army to conquer the world. 
 It was only a little army, just twelve men, 
 but they knew their Leader had more power 
 than all the soldiers of the world. And they 
 were not afraid, though he said, *^ Behold, I 
 send you forth as sheep in the midst of 
 wolves. ' ' For he added, ' ' Pear ye not, ' ' for 
 
SPLITTING ROCKS 11 
 
 he would march before them, and they would 
 be sure of victory. 
 
 The little boy listened with all his might. 
 He did everj^hing that way. Surely this 
 was a story of great and glorious deeds, even 
 better than Waterloo, he felt. And there 
 came to his heart a great longing to go out 
 and fight wrong and put down evil as these 
 men had done. He did not know that the 
 longing was the voice of the great King call- 
 ing his yoimg knight to go out and ^^Live 
 pure, speak true, right wrong, follow the 
 King." 
 
 But there came a day when he did under- 
 stand, and on that day he was ready to obey. 
 
 When bedtime came the boys were ask^ed 
 if they had finished their work, and the story 
 of the last big stone was told. **G. L. would 
 not leave it," the brother explained. The 
 father looked smilingly at little G. L. who 
 still sat, dangling his short legs from his 
 chair, and studying the fire. 
 
 He spoke to his wife in Gaelic. *^ Perhaps 
 the lad will be called to break a great rock 
 some day. The Lord grant he may do it." 
 
Ig BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 The boy looked up wonderingly. He un- 
 derstood Gaelic as well as English, but he 
 did not comprehend his father's words. He 
 had no idea they were prophetic, and that 
 away on the other side of the world, in a 
 land his geography lessons had not yet 
 touched, there stood a great rock, ugly and 
 hai'd and grim, which he was one day to be 
 called upon to break. 
 
A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
CHAPTER II 
 
 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 THE steamship America, bound for Hong- 
 kong, was leaving the dock at San Fran- 
 cisco. All was bustle and noise and stir. 
 Friends called a last farewell from the deck, 
 handkerchiefs waved, many of them wet with 
 tears. The long boom of a gun roared out 
 over the harbor, a bell rang, and the signal 
 was given. Up came the anchor, and slowly 
 and with dignity the great vessel moved out 
 through the Golden Gate into the wide Pa- 
 cific. 
 
 Crowds stood on the deck to get a last 
 glimpse of home and loved ones, and to wave 
 to friends as long as they could be distin- 
 guished. There was one young man who 
 stood apart from the crowd, and who did not 
 wave farewell to any one. He had come on 
 board with a couple of men, but they had 
 gone back to the dock, and were lost in the 
 
 15 
 
16 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 crowd. He seemed entirely alone. He 
 leaned against the deck-railing and gazed in- 
 tently over the widening strip of tumbling 
 waters to the city on the shore. But he did 
 not see it. Instead, he saw a Canadian farm- 
 house, a garden and orchard, and gently 
 sloping meadows hedged in by forest. And 
 up behind the barn he saw a stony field, 
 where long ago he and his brother and the 
 neighbor boys had broken the stones for the 
 new house. 
 
 His quick movements, his slim, straight 
 figure, and his bright, piercing eyes showed 
 he was the same boy who had broken the big 
 rock in the pasture-field long before. Just 
 the same boy, only bigger, and more man 
 than boy now, for he wore an air of com- 
 mand and his thin keen face bore a beard, a 
 deep black, like his hair. And now he was 
 going away, as he had longed to go, when 
 he was a boy, and ahead of him lay the big 
 frowning rock, which he must either break 
 or be broken upon. 
 
 He had learned many things since those 
 days when he had scampered barefoot over 
 
A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY IT 
 
 the fields, or down the road to school. He 
 had been to college in Toronto, in Princeton, 
 and away over in Edinburgh, in the old 
 homeland where his father and mother were 
 born. And all through his life that call to 
 go and do great deeds for the King had 
 come again and again. He had determined 
 to obey it when he was but a little lad at 
 school. He had encountered many big stones 
 in his way, which he had to break, before he 
 could go on. But the biggest stone of all 
 lay across his path when college was over, 
 and he was ready and anxious to go away as 
 a missionary. The Presbyterian Church of 
 Canada had never yet sent out a missionary 
 to a foreign land, and some of the good old 
 men bade George Mackay stay at home and 
 preach the gospel there. But as usual he 
 conquered. Every one saw he would be a 
 great missionary if he were only given a 
 chance. At last the General Assembly gave 
 its consent, and now, in spite of all stones 
 in the way, here he was, bound for China, 
 and ready to do anything the King com- 
 manded. 
 
18 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 Land was beginning to fade away into a 
 gray mist, the November wind was damp and 
 eMU, he turned and went down to his state- 
 room. He sat down on his little steamer 
 trunk, and for the first time the utter lone- 
 liness and the uncertainty of this voyage 
 came over him. He took up his Bible and 
 turned to the fly-leaf. There he read the 
 inscription : 
 
 Presented to 
 
 Eev. G. L. Mackay 
 
 First missionary of the Canadian Pres- 
 byterian Church to China, by the For- 
 eign Mission Committee, as a parting 
 token of their esteem, when about to 
 leave his native land for the sphere of 
 his future labors among the heathen. 
 
 William MacLaken^ Convener. 
 
 Ottawa, 9th October, 1871. 
 
 Matthew xxviii : 18-20, Psalm cxxi. 
 
 It was a moment of severe trial to the 
 young soldier. But he turned to the Psalm 
 
A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 19 
 
 marked on the fly-leaf of his Bible, and he 
 read it again and again. 
 
 ^*My help cometh from the Lord which 
 made heaven and earth." . . . 
 
 ^^The Lord is thy keeper: the Lord is thy 
 shade upon thy right hand." 
 
 '^The sun shall not smite thee by day, nor 
 the moon by night." 
 
 The beautiful words gave him comfort. 
 Homesickness, loneliness, and fears for the 
 future all vanished. He was going out to an 
 unknown land where dangers and perhaps 
 death awaited him, but the Lord would be 
 his keeper and nothing could harm him. 
 
 Twenty-six days on the Pacific! And a 
 stormy voyage it was, for the Pacific does 
 not always live up to her beautiful name, 
 and she tossed the America about in a shock- 
 ing manner. But the voyage did not seem 
 long to George Mackay. There were other 
 missionaries on board with whom he had 
 become acquainted, and he had long delight- 
 ful talks with them and they taught him 
 many things about his new work. He was 
 the same busy G. L. he had been when a boy; 
 
go BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 always working, working, and lie did not 
 waste a moment on the voyage. There was 
 a fine library on the ship and he studied the 
 books on China until he knew more about 
 the religion of that country than did many 
 of the Chinese themselves. 
 
 One day, as he was poring over a Chinese 
 history, some one called him hastily to come 
 on deck. He threw down his book and ran 
 up-stairs. The whole ship was in a joyous 
 commotion. His friend pointed toward the 
 horizon, and away off there against the sky 
 stood the top of a snow-capped peak — Fuji- 
 yama — the majestic, sacred mountain of 
 Japan! 
 
 It was a welcome sight, after the long 
 ocean voyage, and the hours they lay in Yo- 
 kahama harbor were full of enjoyment. 
 Every sight was thrilling and strange to 
 yoimg Mackay's Western eyes. The harbor 
 fairly swarmed with noisy, shouting, chat- 
 tering Japanese boatmen. He wondered 
 why they seemed so familiar, until it sud- 
 denly dawned on him that their queer rice- 
 straw coats made them look like a swarm of 
 
A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 81' 
 
 Eobinson Crusoes who had just been res- 
 cued from their islands. 
 
 When he landed he found things still fun- 
 nier. The streets were noisier than the har- 
 bor. Through them rolled large heavy; 
 wooden carts, pulled and pushed by men, 
 with much grunting and groaning. Past 
 him whirled what looked like overgrown 
 baby carriages, also pulled by men, and each 
 containing a big grown-up human baby. It 
 was all so pretty too, and so enchanting that 
 the young missionary would fain have re- 
 mained there. But China was still farther 
 on, so when the America again set sail, he 
 was on board. 
 
 Away they sailed farther and farther east, 
 or was it west ? He often asked himself that 
 question in some amusement as they ap- 
 proached the coast of China. They entered 
 a long winding channel and steamed this 
 way and that until one day they sailed into 
 a fine broad harbor with a magnificent city 
 rising far up the steep sides of a hill. It was 
 an Oriental city, and therefore strange to 
 the young traveler. But for all that there 
 
£2 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 seemed something familiar in the fine Euro- 
 pean buildings that lined the streets, and 
 something still more homelike in that which 
 floated high above them — something that 
 brought a thrill to the heart of the young 
 Canadian — ^the red-crossed banner of Brit- 
 ain! 
 
 It was Hongkong, the great British port 
 of the East, and here he decided to land. No 
 sooner had the travelers touched the dock, 
 than they were surrounded by a yelling, jos- 
 tling crowd of Chinese coolies, all shouting 
 in an outlandish gibberish for the privilege 
 of carrying the Barbarians' baggage. A 
 group gathered round Mackay, and in their 
 eagerness began hammering each other with 
 bamboo poles. He was well-nigh bewildered, 
 when above the din sounded the welcome 
 music of an English voice. 
 
 **Are you Mackay from Canada?'' 
 He whirled round joyfully. It was Dr. 
 E. J. Eitel, a missionary from England. He 
 had been told that the young Canadian 
 would arrive on the America and was there 
 to welcome him. 
 
A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 2S 
 
 Although the Canadian Presbyterian 
 Church had as yet sent out no missionaries 
 to a foreign land, the Presbyterian Church 
 of England had many scattered over China. 
 They were all hoping that the new recruit 
 would join them, and invited him to visit 
 different mission stations, and see where he 
 would like to settle. * 
 
 So he remained that night in Hongkong, 
 as Dr. Eitel's guest, and the next morning 
 he took a steamer for Canton. Here he was 
 met on the pier by an old fellow student of 
 Princeton University, and the two old col- 
 lege friends had a grand reunion. He re- 
 turned to Hongkong shortly, and next vis- 
 ited Swatow. As they sailed into the harbor, 
 he noticed two Englishmen rowing out to- 
 ward them in a sampan.^ No sooner had the 
 ship's ladder been lowered, than the two 
 sprang out of their boat and clambered 
 quickly on deck. 
 
 To Mackay's amazement, one of them 
 
 ^A Chinese boat from twelve to fifteen feet long, 
 covered with a house. 
 
^4 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 called out, ^^Is Mackay; of Canada on 
 board r' 
 
 ^* Mackay of Canada," sprang forward de- 
 lighted, and found his two new friends to be 
 Mr. Hobson of the Chinese imperial cus- 
 toms, and Dr. Thompson of the English 
 Presbyterian mission in Swatow. 
 
 The missionaries here gave the stranger 
 a warm welcome. At every place he had 
 visited there had awaited him a cordial invi- 
 tation to stay and work. And now at Swa- 
 tow he was urged to settle down and help 
 them. There was plenty to be done, and 
 they would be delighted to have his help. 
 
 But for some reason, Mackay scarcely 
 knew why himself, he wanted to see another 
 place. 
 
 Away off the southeastern coast of China 
 lies a large island called Formosa. It is sep- 
 arated from the mainland by a body of 
 water called the Formosa Channel. This is 
 in some places eighty miles wide, in others 
 almost two himdred. Mackay had often 
 heard of Formosa even before coming to 
 China, and knew it was famed for its beauty. 
 
A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 25 
 
 Even its name shows this. Long, long years 
 before, some navigators from Portugal 
 sailed to this beautiful island. They had 
 stood on the deck of their ship as they ap- 
 proached it, and were amazed at its loveli- 
 ness. They saw lofty green mountains 
 piercing the clouds. They saw silvery cas- 
 cades tumbling down their sides, flasliing in 
 the sunlight, and, below, terraced plains 
 sloping down to the sea, covered with wav- 
 ing bamboo or with little water-covered 
 rice-fields. It was all so delightful that no 
 wonder they cried, 
 
 ' ' Illha Formosa ! lUha Formosa ! ' ' 
 
 ' ' Beautiful Isle ! Beautiful Isle. ' ' 
 Since that day the ^^ Beautiful Isle," per- 
 haps the most charming in all the world, has 
 been called Formosa. 
 
 And, somehow, Mackay longed to see this 
 ^^ Beautiful Isle" before he decided where 
 he was going to preach the gospel. And so 
 when the kind friends at Swatow said, ** Stay 
 and work with us," he always answered, ^^I 
 must first see Formosa." 
 
 So, one day, he sailed away from the 
 
«6 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 mainland toward the Beautiful Isle. He 
 landed at Takow in the south of the island, 
 just about Christmas-time. But Formosa 
 was green, the weather was hot, and he 
 could scarcely believe that, at home in Ox- 
 ford county, Ontario, they were flying over 
 the snow to the music of sleigh-bells. On 
 Kew Tear's day he met a missionary of this 
 south Formosa field, named Br. Eitchie. 
 He belonged to the Presbyterian Church of 
 England, which had a fine mission there. 
 For nearly a month Mackay visited with 
 him and studied the language. 
 
 And while he visited and worked there 
 the missionaries told him of the northern 
 part of the island. No person was there to 
 tell all those crowded cities of Jesus Christ 
 and His love. It would be lonely for him 
 there, it would be terribly hard work, but it 
 would be a grand thing to lay the founda- 
 tions, to be the first to tell those people 
 the ^'good news," the young missionary 
 thought. And, one day, he looked up from 
 the Chinese book he was studying and said 
 to Br. Ritchie: 
 
A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 27 
 
 **I have decided to settle in north For- 
 mosa.'^ 
 
 And Dr. Ritchie's quick answer was : 
 
 **God bless you, Mackay." 
 
 As soon as the decision was made, another 
 missionary. Dr. Dickson, who was with Mr. 
 Ritchie, decided to go to north Formosa with 
 the young man, and show him over the 
 ground. So, early in the month of March in 
 the year 1872, the three men set off by steam- 
 ship to sail for Tamsui, a port in north For- 
 mosa. They were two days making the voy- 
 age, and a tropical storm pitched the small 
 vessel hither and thither, so that they were 
 very much relieved when they sailed up to 
 the mouth of the Tamsui river. 
 
 It was low tide and a bare sand-bar 
 stretched across the mouth of the harbor, 
 so the anchor was dropped, and they waited 
 until the tide should cover the bar, and allow 
 them to sail in. 
 
 This wait gave the travelers a fine oppor- 
 tunity to see the country. The view from 
 this harbor of the *^ Beautiful Island" was 
 an enchanting one. Before them, toward the 
 
^8 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 east, rose tier upon tier of magnificent 
 mountains, stretching north and south. 
 Down their sloping sides tumbled sparkling 
 cascades and here and there patches of 
 bright green showed where there were tea 
 plantations. Farther down were stretches 
 of grass and groves of lovely feathery bam- 
 boo. And between these groves stretched 
 what seemed to be little silvery lakes, with 
 the reflection of the great mountains in them. 
 They were really the famous rice-fields of 
 Formosa, at this time of the year all under 
 water. There were no fences round their 
 little lake-fields. They were of all shapes 
 and sizes, and were divided from each other 
 by little green fringed dykes or walls. Each 
 row of fields was lower than the last until 
 they came right down to the sea-level, and 
 all lay blue and smiling in the blazing sun- 
 light. 
 
 As the young missionary stood spellbound, 
 gazing over the lovely, fairylike scene, Mr. 
 Ritchie touched his arm. 
 
 **This is your parish, Mackay," he whis- 
 pered smilingly. 
 
M 2 
 
 p « 
 o 
 
A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 9.9 
 
 And then for the first time since he had 
 started on his long, long journey, the young 
 missionary felt his spirit at peace. The rest- 
 lessness that had driven him on from one 
 Chinese port to another was gone. This was 
 indeed his parish. 
 
 Suddenly out swung a signal ; the tide had 
 risen. Up came the anchor, and away they 
 glided over the now submerged sand-bar into 
 the harbor. 
 
 A nearer view showed greater charms in 
 the Beautiful Isle. On the south, at their 
 right, lay the great Quan Yin mountain, 
 towering seventeen hundred feet above them, 
 clothed in tall grass and groves of bamboo, 
 banyan, and fir trees of every conceivable 
 shade of green. Nestling at its feet were lit- 
 tle villages almost buried in trees. Slowly 
 the ship drifted along, passing, here a queer 
 fishing village close to the sandy shore, yon- 
 der a light-house, there a battered Chinese 
 fort rising from the top of a hill. 
 
 And now Tamsui came in sight — the new 
 home of the young missionary. It seemed 
 to him that it was the prettiest and the dirt- 
 
so BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 iest place he had ever seen. The town lay- 
 along the bank of the river at the foot of a 
 hill. This bluff rose abruptly behind it to a 
 height of tv^'-o hundred feet. On its face 
 stood a queer-looking building. It was red 
 in color, solid and weather worn, and above 
 it floated the grand old flag of Britain. 
 
 *' That's an old Dutch fort,'' explained 
 Mr. Ritchie, **left there since they were in 
 the island. It is the British consulate now. 
 There, next to it, is the consul's residence." 
 
 It was a handsome house, just below the 
 fort, and surrounded by lovely gardens. But 
 down beneath it, on the shore, was the most 
 interesting place to the newcomer, the town 
 of Tamsui proper, or Ho Be, as the Chinese 
 called it. The foreigners landed and made 
 ,their way up the street. To the two from 
 south Formosa, Tamsui was like every other 
 small Chinese town, but Mackay had not yet 
 become accustomed to the strange sights and 
 sounds and N stranger smells, and his bright 
 eyes were keen with interest. 
 
 The main thoroughfare wound this way 
 and that, only seven or eight feet wide at its 
 
A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 31 
 
 best. It was filled with noisy crowds of 
 men who acted as if they were on the verge 
 of a terrible fight. But the older mission- 
 aries knew that they were merely acting as 
 Chinese crowds always do. On each side 
 were shops, — ^tea shops, rice shops, tobacco 
 shops, and many other kinds. And most 
 numerous of all were the shops where opium, 
 one of the greatest curses of Chinese life, was 
 sold. The front wall of each was removed, 
 and the customers stood in the street and 
 dickered with the shopkeeper, while at the 
 top of his harsh voice the latter swore by all 
 the gods in China that he was giving the 
 article away at a terrific loss. Through the 
 crowd pushed hawkers, carrying their wares 
 balanced on poles across their shoulders. 
 Boys with trays of Chinese candies and 
 sugar-cane yelled their wares above the din. 
 The visitors stumbled along over the rough 
 stones of the pavement until they came to 
 the market-place. Foreigners were not such 
 a curiosity in Tamsui as in the inland towns, 
 and not a great deal of notice was taken 
 of them, but occasionally Mackay could 
 
S2 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 hear the now familiar words of contempt 
 — ^ ' Ugly barbarian ' ' — ^ * Foreign devil ' ' — 
 from the men that passed them. And one 
 man, pointing to Mackay, shouted *'Ho! the 
 black-bearded barbarian!" It was a name 
 the young missionary was destined to hear 
 very frequently. Past opiiun-dens, barber 
 shops, and drug stores they went and 
 through the noise and bustle and din of the 
 market-place. They knew that the inns, 
 judging by the outside, would be filthy, so 
 Mr. Ritchie suggested, as evening was ap- 
 proaching, that they find some comfortable 
 place to spend the night. 
 
 There was a British merchant in Tamsui 
 named Mr. Dodd, whom the missionaries 
 knew. So to him they went, and were given 
 fine quarters in his warehouse. They ate 
 their supper here, from the provisions they 
 had bought in the market, and stretching 
 themselves out on their grass mats they slept 
 soundly. 
 
 The next day was Sunday, but the three 
 travelers spent it quietly in the warehouse 
 by the river, studying their Bibles and dis- 
 
A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 33 
 
 cussing their proposed trip. They concluded 
 it was best not to provoke the anger of the 
 people against the new missionary by 
 preaching, so they did not go out. To-mor- 
 row they would start southward and take 
 Mackay to the bounds of their mission field, 
 and show him the land that was to be ^^ his 
 parish." 
 
RECONNOITERING THE TERRITORY 
 
CHAPTER III 
 
 EECONNOITERING THE TERRITORY 
 
 Tj^ AELY Monday morning Mackay peeped 
 •*^ out of the big warehouse door at the 
 great cahn mountain shrouded in the pale 
 mists of early dawn. The other two trav- 
 elers were soon astir, and were surprised 
 to find their young companion all ready. 
 They were not yet well enough acquainted 
 with him to know that he could do with less 
 sleep at night than an owl. He was in high 
 spirits and as eager to be off as he had ever 
 been to start for a day's fishing in the old 
 times back in Ontario. And indeed this was 
 just a great fishing expedition he was com- 
 mencing. For had not One said to him, 
 long long ago when he was but a little boy, 
 *^Come follow me, and I will make you to 
 become a fisher of men" ? and he had obeyed. 
 The first task was to go out and buy food 
 S7 
 
88 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 for the journey, and to hire a couple of 
 coolies to carry it and what baggage they 
 must take. 
 
 Dr. Dickson went off on this errand, and 
 being well acquainted with Formosan cus« 
 toms and language, soon returned with two 
 Chinese carriers and plenty of food. This 
 last consisted of canned meats, biscuits, cof- 
 fee, and condensed milk, bought at a store 
 where ships' supplies were kept for sale. 
 There was also some salted water-buffalo 
 meat, a Chinese dish with which the young 
 missionary was destined to become very fa- 
 miliar. 
 
 Thev started out three abreast, Mr. 
 Ritchie's blue serge figure capped by a white 
 helmet on the right. Dr. Dickson on the left 
 in his Scotch tweed, and between them the 
 alert, slim figure of the newcomer, in his 
 suit of Canadian gray. The coolies, with 
 baskets hung to a pole across their shoul- 
 ders, came ambling along behind. 
 
 The three travelers were in the gayest 
 mood. Perhaps it was the clear spring 
 morning air, or the breath of the salt ocean, 
 
RECONNOITERING THE TERRITORY 39' 
 
 Xerhaps it was the intoxicating beauty of 
 mcuntain and plain and river that sur- 
 rounded them, or it may have been because 
 they had given their lives in perfect service 
 to the One who is the source of all happiness, 
 but whatever was the cause, they were all 
 like schoolboys off for a holiday. The coolies- 
 who trotted in the rear were very much 
 amazed and not a little amused at the actions 
 of these foolish foreign devils, who laughed 
 and joked and seemed in such high spirits 
 for no reason at all. 
 
 They swung along the bank of the river 
 until they came to the ferry that was to 
 take them to the other side. They sprang 
 into the boat and were shoved off. Before 
 they reached the other side, at Dr. Dickson's 
 suggestion, they took off their shoes and 
 socks, and stowed them away in the car- 
 riers' baskets. When they came to the op- 
 posite bank they rolled up their trousers to- 
 their knees and sprang out into the shallow 
 water. For a short distance they had the joy 
 of tramping barefoot along the hard gleam- 
 ing sand of the harbor. 
 
40 BLACK BEARDED BILRBAHIAN 
 
 But shoes and stockings had to be re- 
 sumed, for soon they turned inland, on a 
 path that wound up to the high plain above 
 the river. 
 
 *^Do you ever use a horse on your trav- 
 els?" asked young Mackay as they climbed 
 upward. 
 
 Mr. Ritchie laughed. *^You couldn't get 
 one in north Formosa for love or money. 
 And if you could, he wouldn't be any use." 
 
 ^* Unless he was a second Pegasus, and 
 could soar above the Formosan roads," 
 added Dr. Dickson. ^^Wait a bit, and 
 you'll understand." 
 
 The young missionary waited, and kept 
 his eyes open for the answer. The pathway 
 crossed a grassy plain where groups of 
 queer-looking, mouse-colored animals, half 
 ox, half buffalo, with great spreading horns, 
 strayed about, herded by boys, or lay wal- 
 lowing in deep pools. 
 
 *^ Water-buffaloes," he said, remembering 
 them as he had seen them in the south. 
 
 *^The most useful animal on the island," 
 remarked Mr, Eitchie, adding with a laugh, 
 
RECONNOITERING THE TERRITORY 41 
 
 *^ except perhaps the pig. You'll have a 
 taste of Mr. Buffalo for your dinner, 
 Mackay." 
 
 And now they were up on the heights, and 
 the lovely country lay spread out before 
 them. Mackay mentally compared this walk 
 to many he had taken along the country 
 roads of his native land. It was early in 
 March, but as there had been no winter, so 
 there was no spring. It was summer, — 
 warm, radiant summer, like a lovely day in 
 June at home. Dandelions, violets, and 
 many gay flowers that he did not recognize 
 spangled the grassy plain. The skylark high 
 overhead was pouring out its glorious song, 
 just as he had heard it in his student days 
 in Scotland. Here and there were cliunps 
 of fir trees that reminded him of Canada, 
 but on the whole the scene was new and won- 
 derful to his Western eyes. 
 
 They were now on the first level of the 
 rice-fields. The farms were tiny things, none 
 larger than eight or ten acres. They were 
 divided into queer-shaped little irrigated 
 fields, separated not by fences, but by little 
 
42 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 low walls of mud. Every farm was under 
 water now, and here and there, wading 
 through his little flooded fields, went the 
 farmer with his plough, drawn by a useful 
 water-buffalo, — ^the latter apparently quite 
 happy at being allowed to splash about in 
 the mud. 
 
 These rice-farms soon became a familiar 
 sight to the newcomer. He liked to see them 
 at all times — ^when each field was a pretty 
 blue or green lake, later when the water was 
 €hoked with the fresh green growth, or in 
 harvest days, when the farmers stripped the 
 fields of their grain. Just now they were at 
 their prettiest. Row above row, they went 
 up the mountainside, like a great glass 
 stairs, each row reflecting the green hills 
 and the bamboo groves above. And from 
 each terrace to the one below, the water 
 tumbled in pretty little cascades that 
 sparkled in the sunlight and filled the air 
 with music. For travelers there were only 
 narrow paths between farms, and often 
 only the ridge of the dykes between field 
 and field. As they made their way between 
 
RECONNOITERING THE TERRITORY 4S 
 
 the tiny fields, walking along the narrow 
 dykes, and listening to the splashing sound 
 of the water, Mackay understood what Dr. 
 Dickson meant, when he remarked that 
 only a flying horse could be of use on such 
 Formosan cross-country journeys. 
 
 Soon the pathway changed once more to 
 the broader public highway. Here there wast 
 much traffic, and many travelers carried in 
 sedan-chairs passed them. And many times 
 by the roadside Mackay saw something that 
 reminded him forcibly of why he had come 
 to Formosa — a heathen shrine. The whole 
 countryside seemed dotted with them. And 
 as he watched the worshipers coming and 
 going, and heard the disdainful words from 
 the priests cast at the hated foreigners, he 
 realized that he was face to face with an 
 awful opposing force. It was the great stone 
 of heathenism he had come to break, and the 
 question was, would he be as successful as: 
 he had been long ago in the Canadian pas- 
 ture-field? 
 
 The travelers ate their dinner by the road- 
 side under the shade of some fir trees that 
 
44 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 made Mackay feel at home. They were soon 
 up and off again, and, tired with their long 
 tramp, they arrived at a town called Tiong- 
 lek, and decided to spend the night there. 
 The place was about the size of Tamsui, with 
 between four and five thousand inhabitants, 
 and was quite as dirty and almost as noisy. 
 They walked down the main street with its 
 uneven stone pavement, its open shops, its 
 noisy bargains, and above all its horrible 
 smells. With the exception of an occasional 
 visit from an official, foreigners scarcely 
 ever came to Tiong-lek, and on every side 
 were revilings and threatenings. One yel- 
 low-faced youngster picked up a handful of 
 mud and threw it at the hated foreigners; 
 and ''Black-bearded barbarian," mingled 
 with their shouts. Mackay 's bright eyes took 
 in everything, and he realized more and 
 more the difficulties of the task before him. 
 They stopped in front of a low one-story 
 building made of sun-dried bricks. This 
 was the Tiong-lek hotel where they were to 
 spend the night. Like most Chinese houses 
 it was composed of a number of buildings 
 
RECONNOITERING THE TERRITORY 45^ 
 
 arranged in the form of a square with a 
 courtyard in the center. Dr. Dickson asked 
 for lodgings from the slant-eyed proprietor. 
 He looked askance at the foreigners, but con- 
 cluded that their money was as good as any 
 one else's, and he led them through the deep 
 doorway into the courtyard. 
 
 In the center of this yard stood an earthen 
 range, with a fire in it. Several travelers 
 stood about it cooking their rice. It was^ 
 evidently the hotel dining-room; a dining- 
 room that was open to all too, for chickens 
 clucked and cackled and pigs grunted about 
 the range and made themselves quite at 
 home. The men about the gateway scowled 
 and muttered *^ Foreign devil," as the three 
 strangers passed them. 
 
 They crossed the courtyard and entered 
 their room, or rather stumbled into it, in 
 semi-darkness. Mackay peered about him 
 curiously. He discovered three beds, made 
 of planks and set on brick pillars for legs. 
 Each- was covered with a dirty mat woven 
 from grass and reeking with the odor of 
 opium smoke. 
 
46 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 A servant came in with something evi- 
 dently intended for a lamp — a burning pith 
 wick set in a saucer of peanut oil. It gave 
 out only a faint glimmer of light, but 
 enough to enable the young missionary to 
 see something else in the room, — some 
 things rather, that ran and skipped and 
 swarmed all over the damp earthen floor 
 and the dirty walls. There were thousands 
 of these brisk little creatures, all leaping 
 about in pleasant anticipation of the good 
 iime they would have when the barbarians 
 went to bed. There was no window, and 
 only the one door that opened into the 
 courtyard. An old pig, evidently more 
 friendly to the foreigners than her masters, 
 came waddling toward them followed by 
 her squealing little brood, and flopping 
 down into the mud in the doorway lay 
 there uttering grunts of content. 
 
 The evil smells of the room, the stench 
 from the pigs, and the still more dreadful 
 odors wafted from the queer food cooking 
 on the range, made the young traveler's un- 
 accustomed senses revolt. He had a half no- 
 
m 
 
 <y 
 

RECONNOITERING THE TERRITORY 47 
 
 tion that the two older men were putting up 
 a joke on him. 
 
 ^^I suppose you thought it wise to give me 
 a strong dose of all this at the start ?'^ he 
 inquired humorously, holding his nose and 
 glancing from the pigs at the door to the 
 crawlers on the wall. 
 
 *^A strong dose!" laughed Mr. Eitchie. 
 *^Not a bit of it, young man. Wait till 
 youVe had some experience of the luxuries 
 of Formosan inns. You'll be calling this the 
 Queen's Hotel, before you've been here 
 long!" 
 
 And so indeed it proved later, for George 
 Mackay had yet much to learn of the true 
 character of Chinese inns. 
 
 Needless to say he spent a wakeful night, 
 on his hard plank bed, and was up early in 
 the morning. The travelers ate their break- 
 fast in a room where the ducks and hens 
 clattered about under the table and between 
 their legs. Fortunately the food was taken 
 from their own stores, and in spite of the 
 surroundings was quite appetizing. 
 
 They started off early, drawing in great 
 
48 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 breaths of the pure morning air, relieved to 
 be away from the odors of the '^Queen's Ho- 
 tel." Three hundred feet above them, high 
 against the deep blue of the morning sky, 
 stood Table Hill, and they started on a brisk 
 climb up its side. The sun had not risen, 
 but already the farmers were out in their 
 little water-fields, or working in their tea 
 plantations. The mountain with its groves 
 of bamboo lay reflected in the little mirrors 
 of the rice-fields. A steady climb brought 
 them to the summit, and after a long descent 
 on the other side and a tramp through tea 
 plantations they arrived in the evening at a 
 large city with a high wall around it, the city 
 of Tek-chham. That night in the city inn 
 was so much worse than the one at Tiong- 
 lek that the Canadian was convinced his 
 friends must have reserved the '^strong 
 dose" for the second night. There were the 
 same smells, the same sorts of pigs and ducks 
 and hens, the same breeds of lively nightly 
 companions, and each seemed to have gained 
 a fresh force. 
 It was a relief to be out in the fields again 
 
RECONNOITERING THE TERRITORY 49 
 
 after the foul odors of the night, and the 
 travelers were off before dawn. The coun- 
 try looked more familiar to Mackay this 
 morning, for they passed through wheat and 
 barley fields. It seemed so strange to wan- 
 der over a man's farm by a footpath, but it 
 was a Chinese custom to which he soon be- 
 came accustomed. 
 
 The sun was blazing hot, and it was a 
 great relief when they entered the cool shade 
 of a forest. It was a delightful place and 
 George Mackay reveled in its beauty. Ever 
 since he had been able to run about his own 
 home farm in Ontario his eyes had always 
 been wide open to observe anything new. 
 He had studied as much out of doors, all his 
 life, as he had done in college, and now he 
 found this forest a perfect library of new 
 things. Nearly every tree and flower was' 
 strange to his Canadian eyes. Here and 
 there, in sheltered valleys, grew the tree- 
 fern, the most beautiful object in the forest, 
 towering away up sometimes to a height of 
 sixty feet, and spreading its stately fronds 
 out to a width of fifteen feet. There was a 
 
50 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 lovely big plant with purple stem and pur- 
 ple leaves, and when Dr. Dickson told him it 
 was the castor-oil plant, he smiled at the re- 
 membrance of the trials that plant had 
 caused him in younger days. One elegant 
 tree, straight as a pine, rose fifty feet in 
 height, with leaves away up at the top only. 
 This was the betel-nut tree. 
 
 **The nuts of that tree," said Mr. Eitchie, 
 standing and pointing away up to where the 
 sunlight filtered through the far-off leaves, 
 **are the chewing tobacco of Formosa and 
 all the islands about here. The Chinese do 
 not chew^ it, but the Malayans do. You will 
 meet some of these natives soon." 
 
 On every side grew the rattan, half tree, 
 half vine. It started off as a tree and grew 
 straight up often to twenty feet in height, 
 and then spread itself out over the tops of 
 other trees and plants in vine-like fashion; 
 some of its branches measured ahnost five 
 hundred feet in length. 
 
 The travelers paused to admire one high 
 up in the branches of the trees. 
 
 Many a Chinaman loses his head hunt- 
 
 er 
 
RECONNOITERING THE TERRITORY 51 
 
 ing that plant," remarked Mr. Ritchie. 
 *^ These islanders export a great deal of rat- 
 tan, and the head-hunters up there in the 
 mountains watch for the Chinese when they 
 are working in the forest." 
 
 Mackay listened eagerly to his friends' 
 tales of the head-hunting savages, living in 
 the mountains. They were always on the 
 lookout for the farmers near their forest 
 lairs. They watched for any unwary man 
 who went too near the woods, pounced upon 
 him, and went off in triumph with his head 
 in a bag. 
 
 The young traveler's eyes brightened, 
 ^^I'll visit them some day!" he cried, look- 
 ing off toward the mountainside. Mr. Rit- 
 chie glanced quickly at the flashing eyes and 
 the quick, alert figure of the young man as 
 he strode along, and some hint came to him 
 of the dauntless young heart which beat be- 
 neath that coat of Canadian gray. 
 
 Two days more over hill and dale, through 
 rice and tea and tobacco-fields, and then, in 
 the middle of a hot afternoon, Mr. Ritchie 
 began to shiver and shake as though half 
 
5g BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 frozen. Dr. Dickson understood, and at the 
 next stopping-place he ordered a sedan-chair 
 and four coolies to carry it. It was the old 
 dreaded disease that hangs like a black cloud 
 over lovely Formosa, the malarial fever. 
 Mr. Ritchie had been a missionary only four 
 years in the island, but already the scourge 
 had come upon him, and his system was 
 weakened. For, once seized by malaria in' 
 Formosa, one seldom makes his escape. 
 They put the sick man into the chair, now 
 in a raging fever, and he was carried by 
 the four coolies. 
 
 They were nearing the end of their jour- 
 ney and were now among a people not Chi- 
 nese. They belonged to the original Ma- 
 layan race of the island. They had been 
 conquered by the Chinese, who in the early 
 days came over from China under a pirate 
 named Koxinga. As the Chinese name 
 every one but themselves ^^ barbarians," they 
 gave this name to all the natives of the is- 
 land. They had conquered all but the 
 dreaded head-hunters, who, free in their 
 mountain fastnesses, took a terrible toll of 
 
RECONNOITERING THE TERRITORY 53 
 
 heads from their would-be conquerors, or 
 even from their own half -civilized brethren. 
 
 The native Malayans who had been sub- 
 dued by the Chinese were given different 
 names. Those who lived on the great level 
 rice-plain over which the missionaries were 
 traveling, were called Pe-po-hoan, *^ Barbar- 
 ians of the plain." Mackay could see little 
 difference between them and the Chinese, ex- 
 cept in the cast of their features, and their 
 long-shaped heads. They wore Chinese 
 dress, even to the cue, worshiped the Chi- 
 nese gods, and spoke with a peculiar Ma- 
 layan twang. 
 
 The travelers were journeying rather 
 wearily over a low muddy stretch of ground, 
 picking their way along the narrow paths 
 between the rice-fields, when they saw a 
 group of men come hurrying down the path 
 to meet them. They kept calling out, but 
 the words they used were not the familiar 
 ^^foreign devil" or ^^ugly barbarian." In- 
 stead the people were shouting words of joy- 
 ful welcome. 
 
 Dr. Dickson hailed them with delight, and 
 
54 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 soon he and Mr. Ritchie's sedan-chair were 
 surrounded by a clamorous group of friends. 
 
 They had journeyed so far south that they 
 had arrived at the borders of the English 
 Presbyterian mission, and the people crowd- 
 ing about them were native Christians. It 
 was all so different from their treatment by 
 the heathen that Mackay's heart was 
 warmed. When the great stone of heathen- 
 ism was broken, what love and kindness 
 were revealed! 
 
 The visitors were led in triumph to the vil- 
 lage. There was a chapel here, and they 
 stayed nearly a week, preaching and teach- 
 ing. 
 
 The rest did Mr. Ritchie much good, and 
 at the end of their visit he was once more 
 able to start off on foot. They moved on 
 from village to village and everywhere the 
 Pe-po-hoan Christians received them with 
 the greatest hospitality. 
 
 But at last the three friends found the 
 time had come for them to part. The two 
 Englishmen had to go on through their fields 
 to their south Eormosan home and the young 
 
RECONNOITERING THE TERRITORY 55 
 
 Canadian must go back to fight the battle 
 alone in the north of the island. He had 
 endeared himself to the two older men, and 
 when the farewells came they were filled 
 with regret. 
 
 They bade him a lingering good-by, with 
 many blessings upon his young head, and 
 many prayers for success in the hard fight 
 upon which he was entering. They walked 
 a short way with him, and stood watching 
 the straight, lithe young figure, so full of 
 courage and hope until it disappeared down 
 the valley. They knew only too well the 
 dangers and trials ahead of him, but they 
 knew also that he was not going into the 
 fight alone. For the Captain was going with 
 his young soldier. 
 
 There was a suspicion of moisture in the 
 eyes of the older missionaries as they turned 
 back to prepare for their own journey south- 
 ward. 
 
 ^*God bless the boy!" said Dr. Dickson 
 fervently. ''Well hear of that young fel- 
 low yet, Eitchie. He 's on fire. ' ' 
 
BEGINNING THE SIEGE 
 
CHAPTER TV. 
 
 BEGINNING THE SIEGE 
 
 npHE news was soon noised about Tamsui 
 -*• that one of the three barbarians who 
 had so lately visited the town had returned 
 to make the place his home. This was most 
 unwelcome tidings to the heathen, and the 
 air was filled with mutterings and threat- 
 enings, and every one was determined to 
 drive the foreign devil out if at all possible. 
 So Mackay found himself meeting everj^ 
 kind of opposition. He was too independent 
 to ask assistance from the British consul in 
 the old Dutch fort on the bluff, or of any 
 other European settlers in Tamsui. He was 
 bound to make his own way. But it was not 
 easy to do so in view of the forces which op- 
 posed him. He had now been in Formosa 
 about two months and had studied the Chi-* 
 
 59 
 
60 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 nese language every waking hour, but it was 
 very difficult, and tie found his usually ready 
 tongue wofuUy handicapped. 
 
 His first concern was to get a dwelling- 
 place, and he went from house to house in- 
 quiring for some place to rent. Everywhere 
 he went he was turned away with rough 
 abuse, and occasionally the dogs were set 
 upon him. 
 
 But at last he was successful. Up on the 
 bank of the river, a little way from the edge 
 of the town, he found a place which the 
 owner condescended to rent. It was a mis- 
 erable little hut, half house, half cellar, built 
 into the side of the hill facing the river. A 
 military officer had intended it for his horse- 
 stable, and yet Mackay paid for this hovel 
 the sum of fifteen dollars a month. It had 
 three rooms, one without a floor. The road 
 ran past the door, and a few feet beyond 
 was the river. By spending money rather 
 liberally he managed to hire the coolie who 
 had accompanied him to south Formosa. 
 With his servant's help Mackay had his new 
 establishment thoroughly cleaned and white- 
 
BEGINNING THE SIEGE 61 
 
 washed, and then he moved in his furniture. 
 He laughed as he called it furniture, for it 
 consisted of but two packing boxes full of 
 books and clothing. But more came later. 
 The British consul, Mr. Prater, lent him a 
 chair and a bed. There was one old Chinese, 
 who kept a shop near by, and who seemed in- 
 clined to be friendly to the queer barbarian 
 with the black beard. He presented him 
 with an old pewter lamp, and the house was 
 furnished complete. 
 
 Mackay sat down at his one table, the first 
 night after he was settled. The damp air 
 was hot and heavy, and swarms of torment- 
 ing mosquitoes filled the room. Through the 
 open door came the murmur of the river, 
 and from far down in the village the sounds 
 of harsh, clamorous voices. He was alone, 
 many, many miles from home and friends. 
 Around him on every side were bitter en- 
 emies. 
 
 One might have supposed he would be 
 overcome at the thought of the stupendous 
 task before him, but whoever supposed that 
 did not know George Mackay. He lighted 
 
m BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 Ms pewter lamp, opened his diary, and these 
 are the words he wrote : 
 
 ^^Here I am in this house, having been led 
 all the way from the old homestead in Zorra 
 by Jesus, as direct as though my boxes were 
 labeled, *Tamsui, Formosa, China.' Oh, the 
 glorious priyilege to lay the foundation of 
 Christ's Church in unbroken heathenism! 
 God help me to do this with the open Bible ! 
 Again I swear allegiance to thee, O King 
 Jesus, my Captain. So help me God ! ' ' 
 
 And now his first duty was to learn the 
 Chinese language. He could already speak 
 a little, but it would be a long time, he knew, 
 before he could preach. And yet, how was 
 he to learn? he asked himself. He was a 
 scholar without a teacher or school. But 
 there was his servant, and nothing daunted 
 by the difficulties to be overcome, he set to 
 work to make him his teacher also. 
 
 George Mackay always went at any task 
 with all his might and main, and he attacked 
 the Chinese language in the same manner. 
 He found it a hard stone to break, however. 
 ^^Of all earthly things I know of," he re- 
 
BEGINNING THE SIEGE 63 
 
 marked once, ^4t is the most intricate and 
 difficult to master.'' 
 
 His unwilling teacher was just about as 
 hard to manage as his task, for the coolie 
 did not take kindly to giving lessons. He 
 certainly had a rather hard time. Day and 
 night his master deluged him with questions. 
 He made him repeat phrases again and 
 again until his pupil could say them cor- 
 rectly. He asked him the name of every- 
 thing inside the house and out, until the 
 easy-going Oriental was overcome with dis- 
 may. This wild barbarian, with the fierj' 
 eyes and the black beard, was a terrible 
 creature who gave one no rest night nor 
 day. Sometimes after Mackay had spent 
 hours with him, imitating sounds and re- 
 peating the names of things over and over, 
 his harassed teacher would back out of the 
 room stealthily, keeping an anxious eye on 
 his master, and showing plainly he had 
 grave fears that the foreigner had gone 
 quite mad. 
 
 Mackay realized that the pace was too 
 hard for his servant, and that the poor f el- 
 
64 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 low was in a fair way to lose what little wits 
 he had, if not left alone occasionally. So 
 one day he wandered out along the river- 
 bank, in search of some one who would talk 
 with him. He turned into a path that led up 
 the hill behind the town. He was in hopes 
 he might meet a farmer who would be 
 friendly. 
 
 When he reached the top of the bluff he 
 found a grassy common stretching back to- 
 ward the rice-fields. Here and there over 
 these downs strayed the queer-looking wa- 
 ter-buffaloes. Some of them were plunged 
 deep in pools of water, and lay there like 
 pigs with only their noses out. 
 
 He heard a merry laugh and shout from 
 another part of the common, and there sat 
 a crowd of frolicsome Chinese boys, in 
 large sun hats, and short loose trousers^ 
 There were about a dozen of them, and they 
 were supposed to be herding the water-buf- 
 faloes to keep them out of the unfenced 
 fields. But, boylike, they were flying kites, 
 and letting their huge-horned charges herd 
 themselves. 
 
BEGINNING THE SIEGE 65 
 
 Mackay walked over toward them. It was 
 not so long since he had been a boy himself, 
 and these jolly lads appealed to him. But 
 the moment one caught sight of the stran- 
 ger, he gave a shout of alarm. The rest 
 jumped up, and with yells of terror and 
 cries of ^^ Here's the foreign devil!" *^Run, 
 or the foreign devil will get you ! ' ' away they 
 went helter-skelter, their big hats waving, 
 their loose clothes flapping wildly. They all 
 disappeared like magic behind a big boul- 
 der, and the cause of their terror had to 
 walk away. 
 
 But the next day, when his servant once 
 more showed signs of mental exhaustion, he 
 strolled out again upon the downs. The 
 boys were there and saw him coming. 
 Though they did not actually run away this 
 time, they retired to a safe distance, and 
 stood ready to fly at any sign of the barbar- 
 ian 's approach. They watched him won- 
 deringly. They noticed his strange white 
 face, his black beard, his hair cut off quite 
 short, his amazing hat, and his ridiculous 
 clothes. And when at last he walked away, 
 
66 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 and all danger was over, they burst into 
 shouts of laughter. 
 
 The next day, as they scampered about 
 the common, here again came the absurd- 
 looking stranger, walking slowly, as though 
 careful not to frighten them. The boys did 
 not run away this time, and to their utter 
 astonishment he spoke to them. Mackay 
 had practised carefully the words he was to 
 say to them, and the well-spoken Chinese 
 astounded the lads as much as if one of the 
 monkeys that gamboled about the trees of 
 their forests should come down and say, 
 ' * How do you do, boys ? ' ' 
 
 **Why, he speaks our words!" they all 
 cried at once. 
 
 As they stood staring, Mackay took out 
 his watch and held it up for them to see. It 
 glittered in the sun, and at the sight of it 
 and the kind smiling face above, they lost 
 their fears and crowded around him. They 
 examined the watch in great wonder. They 
 handled his clothes, exclaimed over the but- 
 tons on his coat, and inquired what they 
 were for. They felt his hands and his fin- 
 
BEGINNING THE SIEGE 67 
 
 gers, and finally decided that, in spite of his 
 queer looks, he was after all a man. 
 
 From that day the young missionary and 
 the herd-boys were great friends. Every 
 day he joined them in the buffalo pasture, 
 and would spend from four to five hours 
 with them. And as they were very willing 
 to talk, he not only learned their language 
 rapidly, but also learned much about their 
 homes, their schools, their customs, and their 
 religion. 
 
 One day, after a lengthy lesson from his 
 servant, the latter decided that the barba- 
 rian was unbearable, and bundling up his 
 clothes he marched off, without so much as 
 **by your leave." So Mackay fell back en- 
 tirely upon his little teachers on the com- 
 mon. With their assistance in the day- 
 time and his Chinese-English dictionary at 
 night, he made wonderful progress. 
 
 He was left alone now, to get his own 
 meals and keep the swarms of flies and the 
 damp mold out of his hut by the riverside. 
 He soon learned to eat rice and water-buf- 
 falo meat, but he missed the milk and butter 
 
68 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 and cheese of his old Canadian home. For 
 he discovered that cows were never milked 
 in Formosa. There was variety of food, 
 however, as almost every kind of vegetable 
 that he had ever tasted and many new kinds 
 that he found delicious were for sale in the 
 open-fronted shops in the village. Then the 
 fruits! They were fresh at all seasons — 
 oranges the whole year, bananas fresh from 
 the fields — and such pineapples! He re- 
 alized that he had never really tasted pine- 
 apples before. 
 
 Meanwhile, he was becoming acquainted. 
 All the families of the herd-boys learned to 
 like him, and when others came to know 
 him they treated him with respect. He was 
 a teacher, they learned, and in China a 
 teacher is always looked upon with some- 
 thing like reverence. And, besides, he had 
 a beard. This appendage was considered 
 very honorable among Chinese, so the black- 
 bearded barbarian was respected because of 
 this. 
 
 But there was one class that treated him 
 with the greatest scorn. These were the 
 
BEGINNING THE SIEGE 69 
 
 Chinese scholars. They were the literati, 
 and were like princes in the land. They de- 
 spised every one who was not a graduate of 
 their schools, and most of all they despised 
 this barbarian who dared to set himself up 
 as a teacher. Mackay had now learned Chi- 
 nese well enough to preach, and his sermons 
 aroused the indignation of these proud grad- 
 uates. 
 
 Sometimes when one was passing the lit- 
 tle hut by the river, he would drop in, and 
 glance around just to see what sort of place 
 the barbarian kept. He would pick up the 
 Bible and other books, throw them on the 
 floor, and with words of contempt strut 
 proudly out. 
 
 Mackay endured this treatment patiently, 
 but he set himself to study their books, for 
 he felt sure that the day was not far distant 
 when he must meet these conceited literati 
 in argument. 
 
 He went about a good deal now. The 
 Tamsui people became accustomed to him, 
 and he was not troubled much. His bright 
 eyes were always wide open and he learned 
 
70 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 much of the lives of the people he had come 
 to teach. Among the poor he found a pov- 
 erty of which he had never dreamed. They 
 could live upon what a so-called poor fam- 
 ily in Canada would throw away. Nothing 
 was wasted in China. He often saw the 
 meat and fruit tins he threw away when 
 they were emptied, reappearing in the mar- 
 ket-place. He learned that these poorer 
 people suffered cruel wrongs at the hands 
 of their magistrates. He visited a yamen^ 
 or court-house, and saw the mandarin dis- 
 pense ^* justice," but his judgment was said 
 to be always given in favor of the one who 
 paid him the highest bribe. He saw the 
 widow robbed, and the innocent suffering 
 frightful tortures, and sometimes he strode 
 home to his little hut by the river, his blood 
 tingling with righteous indignation. And 
 then he would pray with all his soul : 
 
 **0 God, give me power to teach these peo- 
 ple of thy love through Jesus Christ!'' 
 
 But of all the horrors of heathenism, and 
 there were many, he found the religion the 
 most dreadful. He had read about it when 
 
BEGINNING THE SIEGE 71 
 
 on board ship, but he found it was infinitely 
 worse when written in men's lives than 
 when set down in print. He never realized 
 what a blessing was the religion of Jesus 
 Christ to a nation until he lived among a 
 people who did not know Him. 
 
 He found almost as much difficulty in 
 learning the Chinese religion as the Chinese 
 language. After he had spent days trying 
 to understand it, it would seem to him like 
 some horrible nightmare filled with wicked 
 devils and no less wicked gods and evil 
 spirits and ugly idols. And to make matters 
 worse there was not one religion, but a be- 
 wildering mixture of three. First of aU 
 there was the ancient Chinese religion, called 
 Confucianism. Confucius, a wise man of 
 China, who lived ages before, had laid down 
 some rules of conduct, and had been wor- 
 shiped ever since. Very good rules they 
 were as far as they went, and if the Chinese 
 had followed this wise man they would not 
 have drifted so far from the truth. But 
 Confucianism meant ancestor-worship. In 
 every home was a little tablet with the names 
 
'7a BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 of the family's ancestors upon it, and every 
 one in the house worshiped the spirits of 
 those departed. With this was another re- 
 ligion called Taoism. This taught belief in 
 wicked demons who lurked about people 
 ready to do them some ill. Then, years and 
 years before, some people from India had 
 brought over their religion. Buddhism, 
 which had become a system of idol-worship. 
 These three religions were so mixed up that 
 the people themselves were not able to dis- 
 tinguish between them. The names of their 
 idols would cover pages, and an account of 
 their religion would fill volumes. The more 
 Mackay learned of it, the more he yearned 
 to tell the people of the one God who was 
 Lord and Father of them all. 
 
 As soon as he had learned to write clearly, 
 he bought a large sheet of paper, and 
 printed on it the ten commandments in Chi- 
 nese characters. Then he hung it on the out- 
 side of his door. People who passed read 
 it and made comments of various kinds. 
 Several threw mud at it, and at last a proud 
 ^graduate, who came striding past, his silk 
 
BEGINNING THE SIEGE 73 
 
 robes rustling grandly, caught the paper and 
 tore it down. Mackay promptly put up an- 
 other. It shared the fate of the first. Then 
 he put up a third, and the people let it alone. 
 Even these heathen Chinese were beginning 
 to get an impression of the dauntless deter- 
 mination of the man with whom they were 
 to get much better acquainted. 
 
 And all this time, while he was studying 
 and working and arguing with the heathen 
 and preaching to them, the young mission- 
 ary was working just as hard at something 
 else; something into which he was putting 
 as much energy and force as he did into 
 learning the Chinese language. With all 
 his might and main, day and night, he was 
 praying — praying for one special object. 
 He had been praying for this long before he 
 saw Formosa. He was pleading with God 
 to give him, as his first convert, a young man 
 of education. And so he was always on the 
 lookout for such, as he preached and taught, 
 and never once did he cease praying that he 
 might find him. 
 
 One forenoon he was sitting at his books, 
 
74 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 near the open door, when a visitor stopped 
 before him. It was a fine-looking young 
 man, well dressed and with all the unmis- 
 takable signs of the scholar. He had none 
 of the graduate's proud insolence, however, 
 for when Mackay arose, he spoke in the most 
 gentlemanly manner. At the missionary's 
 invitation he entered, and sat down, and 
 the two chatted pleasantly. The visitor 
 seemed interested in the foreigner, and asked 
 him many questions that showed a bright, 
 intelligent mind. When he arose to go, Mac- 
 kay invited him to come again, and he prom- 
 ised he would. He left his card, a strip of 
 pink paper about three inches by six; the 
 name on it read Giam Cheng Hoa. Mackay 
 was very much interested in him, he was so 
 bright, so affable, and such pleasant com- 
 pany. He waited anxiously to see if he 
 would return. 
 
 At the appointed hour the visitor was at 
 the door, and the missionary welcomed him 
 warmly. The second visit was even more 
 pleasant than the first. And Mackay told 
 his guest why he had come to Formosa, and 
 

 1 
 
 
 r 
 
 
 >i 
 
 A HoA 
 'this was his man!" 
 
BEGINNING THE SIEGE 75 
 
 of Jesus Christ who was both God and man 
 and who had come to the earth to save man- 
 kind. 
 
 The young man's bright eyes were fixed 
 steadily upon the missionary as he talked, 
 and when he went away his face was very 
 thoughtful. Mackay sat thinking about him 
 long after he had left. 
 
 He had met many graduates, but none 
 had impressed him as had this youth, with 
 his frank face and his kind, genial manner. 
 There was something too about the young 
 fellow, he felt, that marked him as superior 
 to his companions. And then a sudden di- 
 vine inspiration flashed into the lonely 
 young missionary's heart. This was Ms 
 manl This was the man for whom he had 
 been praying. The stranger had as yet 
 shown no sign of conversion, but Mackay 
 could not get away from that inspired 
 thought. And that night he could not sleep 
 for joy. 
 
 In a day or two the young man returned. 
 With him was a noted graduate, who asked 
 many questions about the new religion. The 
 
76 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 next day lie came again with six graduates, 
 who argued and discussed. 
 
 When they were gone Mackay paced up 
 and down the room and faced the serious 
 situation which he realized he was in. He 
 saw plainly that the educated men of the 
 town were banded together to beat him in 
 argument. And with all his energy and 
 desperate determination he set to work to 
 be ready for them. 
 
 His first task was to gain a thorough 
 knowledge of the Chinese religions. He 
 had already learned much about them, both 
 from books on shipboard and since he had 
 come to the island. But now he spent long 
 hours of the night, poring over the books of 
 Confucianism, Buddhism, and Taoism, by 
 the light of his smoky little pewter lamp. 
 And before the next visit of his enemies he 
 knew almost more of their jumble of relig- 
 ions than they did themselves. 
 
 It was well he was prepared, for his op- 
 ponents came down upon him in full force. 
 Every day a band of college graduates, al- 
 ways headed by Giam Cheng Hoa, came up 
 
BEGINNING THE SIEGE TT 
 
 from the town to the missionary's little hut 
 by the river, and for hours they would sit 
 arguing and talking. They were always the 
 most noted scholars the place could produce, 
 but in spite of all their cleverness the bar- 
 barian teacher silenced them every time. 
 He fairly took the wind out of their sails 
 by showing he knew quite as much about 
 Chinese religions as they did. If they 
 quoted Confucius to contradict the Bible, 
 he would quote Confucius to contradict 
 them. He confounded them by proving that^ 
 they were not really followers of Confucius, 
 for they did not keep his sayings. And 
 with unanswerable arguments he went on to 
 show that the religion taught by Jesus Christ 
 was the one and only religion to make man 
 good and noble. 
 
 Each day the group of visitors grew 
 larger, and at last one morning, as Mackay^ 
 looked out of his door, he saw quite a crowd 
 approaching. They were led, as usual, b^ 
 the friendly young scholar. By his side 
 walked, or rather, swaggered a man of whom 
 the missionary had often heard. He was a 
 
78 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 scholar of high degree and was famed all 
 over Formosa for his great learning. Be- 
 hind him came about twenty men, and Mac- 
 kay could see by their dress and appearance 
 that they were all literary graduates. They 
 were coming in great force this time, to 
 crush the barbarian with their combined 
 knowledge. He met them at the door with 
 his usual politeness and hospitality. He 
 was always courteous to these proud literati, 
 but he always treated them as equals, and 
 showed none of the deference they felt he 
 owed them. The crowd seated itself on im- 
 provised benches and the argument opened. 
 
 This time Mackay led the attack. He car- 
 ried the war right into the enemy's camp. 
 Instead of letting them put questions to him, 
 he asked them question after question con- 
 cerning Confucianism, Buddhism, and Tao- 
 ism. They were questions that sometimes 
 they could not answer, and to their chagrin 
 they had to hear ^Hhe barbarian" answer 
 for them. There were other questions, still 
 more humiliating, which, when they an- 
 swered, only served to show their religion 
 
BEGINNING THE SIEGE 79 
 
 ^as false and degrading. Their spokesman, 
 the great learned man, became at last so 
 entangled that there was nothing for him 
 but flight. He arose and stalked angrily 
 away, and in a little while they all left. 
 Mackay looked wistfully at young Giam as 
 he went out, wondering what effect these 
 words had upon him. 
 
 He was not left long in doubt. Not half 
 an hour after a shadow fell across the open 
 Bible the missionary was studying. He 
 glanced up. There he stood! His bright 
 face was very serious. He looked gravely 
 at the other young man, and his eyes shone 
 as he spoke. 
 
 **I brought all those graduates and teach- 
 ers here," he confessed, ^^to silence you or 
 be silenced. And now I am convinced that 
 the doctrines you teach are true. I am de- 
 termined to become a Christian, even though 
 I suffer death for it." 
 
 Mackay rose from his seat, his face alight 
 with an overwhelming joy. The man he had 
 prayed for! He took the young fellow's 
 hand — speechless. And together the only 
 
80 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 missionary of north Formosa and his first 
 convert fell upon their knees before the true 
 God and poured out their hearts in joy and 
 thanksgiving. 
 
SOLDIERS TWO 
 
CHAPTER V 
 
 SOLDIERS TWO 
 
 AND now a new day dawned for the 
 lonely young missionary. He had not 
 only a convert but a helper and a delightful 
 companion. His new friend was of a bright, 
 joyous nature, the sort that everybody loves. 
 Giam was his surname, but almost every one 
 called him by his given name, Hoa, and those 
 who knew him best called him A Hoa. Mac- 
 kay used this more familiar boyish name, 
 for Giam was the younger by a few years. 
 
 To A Hoa his new friend was always Pas- 
 tor Mackay, or as the Chinese put it, Mac- 
 kay Pastor, Kai Bok-su was the real Chi- 
 nese of it, and Kai Bok-su soon became a 
 name known all over the island of Formosa. 
 
 A Hoa needed all his kind new friend's 
 help in the first days after his conversion. 
 For family, relatives, and friends turned 
 
 83 
 
84 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 upon him with the bitterest hatred for tak- 
 ing up the barbarian's religion. So, driven 
 from his friends, he came to live in the little 
 hut by the river with Mackay. While at 
 home these two read, sang, and studied to- 
 gether all the day long. It would have been 
 hard for an observer to guess who was 
 teacher and who pupil. For at one time A 
 Hoa was receiving Bible instruction and 
 the next time Mackay was being drilled in 
 the Chinese of the educated classes. Each 
 teacher was as eager to instruct as each pu- 
 pil was eager to learn. 
 
 The Bible was, of course, the chief text- 
 book, but they studied other things, astron- 
 omy, geology, history, and similar subjects. 
 One day the Canadian took out a map of the 
 world, and the Chinese gazed with amaze- 
 ment at the sight of the many large coun- 
 tries outside China. A Hoa had been pri- 
 vate secretary to a mandarin, and had trav- 
 eled much in China, and once spent six 
 months in Peking. His idea had been that 
 China was everything, that all countries out- 
 side it were but insignificant barbarian 
 
SOLDIERS TWO 85 
 
 places. His geography lessons were like rev- 
 elations. 
 
 His progress was simply astonishing, as 
 was also Mackay's. The two seemed pos- 
 sessed with the spirit of hard work. But a 
 superstitious old man who lived near be- 
 lieved they were possessed with a demon; 
 He often listened to the two singing, drill- 
 ing, and repeating words as they marched 
 up and down, either in the house or in front 
 of it, and he became alarmed. He was a 
 kindly old fellow, and, though a heathen, felt 
 well disposed toward the missionary and A 
 Hoa. So one day, very much afraid, he 
 slipped over to the little house with two 
 small cups of strong tea. He came to the 
 door and proffered them with a polite bow. 
 He hoped they might prove soothing to the 
 disturbed nerves of the patients, he said. 
 He suggested, also, that a visit to the near- 
 est temple might help them. 
 
 The two affected ones received his advice 
 politely, but the humor of it struck them 
 both, and when their visitor was gone they 
 laughed so hard the tea nearly choked them. 
 
86 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 The missionary was soon able to speak so 
 fluently that he preached almost every day, 
 either in the little house by the river, or on 
 the street in some open square. There w^re 
 other things he did, too. On every side he 
 saw great suffering from disease. The chief 
 malady was the terrible malaria, and the na- 
 tive doctors with their ridiculous remedies 
 only made the poor sufferers worse. Mac- 
 kay had studied medicine for a short time 
 while in college, and now found his knowl- 
 edge very useful. He gave some simple 
 remedies to several victims of malaria which 
 proved effective. The news of the cures 
 spread far and wide. The barbarian was 
 kind, he had a good heart, the people de- 
 clared. Many more came to him for medi- 
 cine, and day by day the circle of his friends 
 grew. And wherever he went, curing dis- 
 ease, teaching, or preaching, A Hoa went 
 with him, and shared with him the taunts 
 of their heathen enemies. 
 
 But the gospel was gradually making its 
 way. Not long after A Hoa's conversion a 
 second man confessed Christ. He had pre- 
 
SOLDIERS TWO 87 
 
 viously disturbed the meetings by throwing 
 stones into the doorway whenever he passed. 
 But his sister was cured of malaria by the 
 missionary's medicine, and soon both sister 
 and mother became Christians, and finally 
 the stone-thrower himself. And so, gradu- 
 ally, the lines of the enemy were falling 
 back, and at every sign of retreat the little 
 army of two advanced. A little army ? No ! 
 For was there not the whole host of heaven 
 moving with them ? And Mackay was learn- 
 ing that his boyish dreams of glory were 
 truly to be fulfilled. He had wanted always 
 to be a soldier like his grandfather, and 
 fight a great Waterloo, and here he was 
 right in the midst of the battle with the vic- 
 tory and the glory sure. 
 
 The two missionaries often went on short 
 trips here and there into the country around 
 Tamsui, and Mackay determined that when 
 the intense summer heat had lessened they 
 would make a long tour to some of the large 
 cities. The heat of August was almost over- 
 powering to the Canadian. Flies and mos- 
 quitoes and insect pests of all kinds made 
 
: 88 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 Ms life miserable, too, and prevented Ms 
 .studying as hard as he wished. 
 
 One oppressive day he and A Hoa re- 
 turned from a preaching tour in the coun- 
 try to find their home in a state of siege. 
 Right across the threshold lay a monster 
 .serpent, eight feet in length. A Hoa shouted 
 a warning, and seized a long pole, and the 
 two managed to kill it. But their troubles 
 were not yet over. The next morning, Mac- 
 kay stepped outside the door and sprang 
 back just in time to escape another, the 
 mate of the one killed. This one was even 
 larger than the first, and was very fierce. 
 But they finished it with sticks and stones. 
 
 When September came the days grew 
 clearer, and the many pests of summer were 
 not so numerous. The mosquitoes and flies 
 that had been such torments disappeared, 
 and there was some relief from the damp op- 
 pressive heat. But he had only begun to 
 enjoy the refreshing breaths of cool air, and 
 had remarked to A Hoa that the days re- 
 minded him of Canadian summers, when the 
 weather gave him to understand that every 
 
^ 
 
SOLDIERS TWO 89 
 
 Pormosan season has its drawbacks. Sep- 
 tember brought tropical storms and ty- 
 phoons that were terrible, and he saw from 
 his little house on the hillside big trees torn 
 up by the root, buildings swept away like 
 chaff, and out in the harbor great ships 
 lifted from their anchorage and whirled 
 away to destruction. And then he was some- 
 times thankful that his little hut was built 
 into the hillside, solid and secure. 
 
 But the fierce storms cleared away the 
 heavy dampness that had made the heat of 
 the summer so unbearable, and October and 
 November brought delightful days. The 
 weather was still warm of course, but the 
 nights were cool and pleasant. 
 
 So early one October morning, Mackay 
 and A Hoa started off on a tour to the cities. 
 
 ^^We shall go to Kelung first," said the 
 missionary. Kelung was a seaport city on 
 the northern coast, straight east across the 
 island from Tamsui. A coolie to carry food 
 and clothing was hired, and early in the 
 morning, while the stars were still shining, 
 they passed through the sleeping town and 
 
90 BLACK BEARDED BARBAHIAN 
 
 out on the little paths between the rice-fields. 
 
 Though it was yet scarcely daylight, the 
 farmers were already in their fields. It was 
 harvest-time — ^the second harvest of the year 
 — and the little rice-fields were no longer 
 like mirrors, but were filled with high rus- 
 tling grain ready for the sickle. The water 
 had been drained off and the reaper and 
 thrasher were going through the fields be- 
 fore dawn. There was no machinery like 
 that used at home. The reaper was a short 
 sickle, the thrashing-machine a kind of 
 portable tub, and Mackay looked at them 
 with some amusement, and described to A 
 Hoa how they took off the great wheat crops 
 in western Canada. 
 
 The two were in high spirits, ready for 
 any sort of adventure and they met some. 
 Toward evening they reached a place called 
 Sek-khau, and went to the little brick inn to 
 get a sleeping-place. The landlord came to 
 the door and was about to bid A Hoa enter, 
 when the light fell upon Mackay 's face. 
 With a shout, ^^Black-bearded barbarian!'' 
 he slammed the door in their faces. They 
 
SOLDIERS TWO 91 
 
 turned away, but already a crowd had begun 
 to gather. '^The black-bearded barbarian is 
 here! The foreign devil from Tamsui has 
 come!" was the cry. The mob followed the 
 two down the streets, shouting curses. Some 
 one threw a broken piece of brick, another 
 a stone. Mackay turned and faced them, 
 and for a few moments they seemed cowed. 
 But the crowd was increasing, and he 
 deemed it wise to move on. So the two 
 marched out of the town followed by stones 
 and curses. And, as they went, Mackay re- 
 minded A Hoa of what they had been read- 
 ing the night before. 
 
 ' ' Yes, ' ' said A Hoa brightly. ' ' The Lord 
 Jesus was driven out of his own town in 
 Galilee." 
 
 *'Yes, and Paul — you remember how he 
 was stoned. Our Master counts us worthy 
 to suffer for him." 
 
 But where to go was the question. Before 
 they could decide, night came down upon 
 them, and it came in that sudden tropical 
 way to which Mackay, all his life accus- 
 tomed to the long mellow twilights of his 
 
9^ BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 northern home, could never grow accus- 
 tomed. They each took a torch out of the 
 carrier's bag, lighted it, and marched bravely 
 on. The path led along the Kelung river, 
 through tall grass. They were not sure 
 where it led to, but thought it wise to follow 
 the river ; they would surely come to Kelung 
 some time. Mackay was ahead, A Hoa right 
 at his heels, and behind them the basket- 
 bearer. At a sudden turn in the path A Hoa 
 gave a shout of warning, and the next in- 
 stant, a band of robbers leaped from the 
 long reeds and grass, and brandished their 
 spears in the travelers' faces. The torch- 
 light shone on their fierce evil eyes and their 
 long knives, making a horrible picture. The 
 young Canadian Scot did not flinch for a 
 second. He looked the wild leader straight 
 in the face. 
 
 '^We have no money, so you cannot rob 
 us," he said steadily, **and you must let us 
 pass at once. I am a teacher and " 
 
 ** A teacher !'' he was interrupted by a dis- 
 mayed exclamation from several of the wild 
 band. **A teacher!" As if with one accord 
 
SOLDIERS TWO 9^ 
 
 they turned and fled into the darkness. For 
 even a highwayman in China respects a man- 
 of learning. The travelers went on again, 
 with something of relief and something of 
 the exultation that youth feels in having' 
 faced danger. But a second trouble was 
 upon them. One of those terrible storms- 
 that still raged occasionally had been brew- 
 ing all evening, and now it opened its ar- 
 tillery. Great howling gusts came down 
 from the mountain, carrying sheets of driv- 
 ing rain. Their torches went out like^ 
 matches, and they were left to stagger along 
 in the black darkness. What were they to 
 do? They could not go back. They could 
 not stay there. They scarcely dared go on.- 
 For they did not know the way, and any 
 moment a fresh blast of wind or a misstep 
 might hurl them into the river. But they 
 decided that they must go on, and on they 
 went, stumbling, slipping, sprawling, and 
 falling outright. Now there would be art 
 exclamation from Mackay as he sank to the 
 knees in the mud of a rice-field, now a groart 
 from A Hoa as he fell over a boulder and 
 
94 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 bruised and scratched himself, and of tenest 
 a yell from the poor coolie, as he slipped, 
 baskets and all, into some rocky crevice, and 
 was sure he was tumbling into the river ; but 
 they staggered on, Mackay secure in his faith 
 in God. His Father knew and his Father 
 would keep him safely. And behind him 
 came brave young A Hoa, buoyed up by his 
 new growing faith, and learning the lesson 
 that sometimes the Captain asks his soldier 
 to march into hard encounters, but that the 
 soldier must never flinch. 
 
 The ^^everlasting arms" were around 
 them, for by midnight they reached Kelung. 
 They were drenched, breathless, and worn 
 out, and they spent the night in a damp 
 hovel, glad of any shelter from the wind and 
 rain. 
 
 But the next morning, young soldier A 
 Hoa had a fiercer battle to fight than any 
 with robbers or storms. As soon as the city 
 was astir, Mackay and he went out to find 
 a good place to preach. They passed down 
 the main thoroughfare, and everywhere they 
 attracted attention. Cries of ^'IJgly bar- 
 
SOLDIERS TWO 95 
 
 barian!" and oftenest '* Black-bearded bar- 
 barian" were heard on all sides. A Hoa 
 was known in Kelung and contempt and rid- 
 icule was heaped upon him by his old college 
 acquaintances. He was consorting with the 
 barbarian! He was a friend of this for- 
 eigner! They poured more insults upon 
 him than they did upon the barbarian him- 
 self. Some took the stranger as a joke, and 
 laughed and made funny remarks upon his 
 appearance. Here and there an old woman, 
 peeping through the doorway, would utter a 
 loud cackling laugh, and pointing a wizened 
 finger at the missionary would cry: *^Eh, 
 eh, look at him ! Tee hee ! He 's got a wash- 
 basin on for a hat!" A Hoa was distressed 
 at these remarks, but Mackay was highly 
 amused. 
 
 ^^We're drawing a crowd, anj^way," he 
 remarked cheerfully, *^and that's what we 
 want." 
 
 Soon they came to an open square in front 
 of a heathen temple. The building had sev- 
 eral large stone steps leading up to the door. 
 Mackay mounted them and stood facing the 
 
96 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 buzzing crowd, with A Hoa at his side. 
 They started a hymn : 
 
 All people that on earth do dwell 
 Sing to the Lord with cheerful voice. 
 
 The open square in front of them began to 
 fill rapidly. The people jostled each other 
 in their endeavors to get a view of the bar- 
 barian. Every one was curious, but every 
 one was angry and indignant, so sometimes 
 the sound of the singing was lost in the 
 shouts of derision. 
 
 When the hymn was finished, Mackay 
 had a sudden inspiration. * ' They will surely 
 listen to one of their own people," he said to 
 himself, and turned to A Hoa. 
 
 ''Speak to them," he said. ''TeU them 
 about the true God." 
 
 That was a hard moment for the young 
 convert. He had been a Christian only a 
 few months and had never yet spoken in 
 public for Christ. He looked desperately 
 over the sea of mocking faces beneath him. 
 He opened his mouth, as though to speak, 
 and hesitated. Just then came a rough and 
 
SOLDIERS TWO 97 
 
 bitter taunt from one of Ms old companions. 
 It was too much. A Hoa turned away and 
 hung his head. 
 
 The young missionary said nothing. But 
 he did the very wisest thing he could have 
 done. He had some time before taught A 
 Hoa a grand old Scottish paraphrase, and 
 they had often sung it together : 
 
 I'm not ashamed to o^n my Lord 
 
 Or to defend his cause, 
 Maintain the glory of his cross 
 
 And honor all his laws. 
 
 Mackay's voice, loud and clear, burst into 
 this fine old hymn. A Hoa raised his head. 
 He joined in the hymn and sang it to the 
 end. It put mettle into him. It was the 
 battle-song that brought back the young re- 
 cruit's courage. Almost before the last note 
 sounded he began to speak. His voice rang 
 out bold and unafraid over the crowd of an- 
 gry heathen. 
 
 '^I am a Christian!" he said distinctly. 
 **I worship the true God. I cannot worship 
 idols," with a gesture toward the temple 
 
98 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 door, ''that rats can destroy. I am not 
 afraid. I love Jesus. He is my Savior and 
 Friend." 
 
 No, A Hoa was not '* ashamed" any more. 
 His testing time had come, and he had not 
 failed after all. And his brave, true words 
 sent a thrill of joy through the more sea- 
 soned soldier at his side. 
 
 That was not the only difficult situation 
 he met on that journey. The two soldiers 
 of the cross had many trials, but the thrill 
 of that victory before the Kelung temple 
 never left them. 
 
 When they returned to Tamsui they held 
 daily services in their house, and A Hoa 
 oft^n spoke to the people who gathered 
 there. 
 
 One Sunday they noticed an old woman 
 present, who had come down the river in a 
 boat. Women as a rule did not come out to 
 the meetings, but this old lady continued to 
 come every Sunday. She showed great in- 
 terest in the missionary's words, and, at the 
 close of one meeting, he spoke to her. She 
 told him she was a poor widow, that her 
 
SOLDIERS TWO ^9 
 
 name was Thah-so, and that she had come 
 down the river from Go-ko-khi to hear him 
 preach. Then she added, ^*I have passed 
 through many trials in this world, and my 
 idols never gave me any comfort." Then 
 her eyes shone, *'But I like your teaching 
 very much," she went on. *'I believe the 
 God you tell about will give me peace* I 
 will come again, and bring others." 
 
 Next Sunday she was there with several 
 other women. And after that she came 
 every Sunday, bringing more each time, 
 until at last a whole boat-load would come 
 down to the service. 
 
 These people were so interested that they 
 asked the missionary if he would not visit 
 them. So one day he and A Hoa boarded 
 one of the queer-looking flat-bottomed river 
 boats and were pulled up the rapids to Go- 
 ko-khi. Every village in Formosa had its 
 headman, who is virtually the ruler of the 
 place. When the boat landed, many of the 
 villagers were at the shore to meet their vis* 
 itors and took them at once to their mayor's 
 house, the best building in the village. Tan 
 
100 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 Paugh, a fine, big, powerfully-built man, re- 
 ceived them cordially. He frankly declared 
 that he was tired and sick of idols and 
 wanted to hear more of this new religion. 
 An empty granary was obtained for both 
 church and home, and the missionary and 
 his assistant took up their quarters there, 
 and for several months they remained, 
 preaching and teaching the Bible either in 
 Go-ho-khi, or in the lovely surrounding val- 
 leys. 
 
THE GEEAT KAI BOK-SU 
 
CHAPTEE VI 
 
 THE GREAT KAI BOK-SU 
 
 THE missionary was now becoming a fa- 
 miliar figure both in Tamsui and in the 
 surrounding country. By many he was 
 loved, by all he was respected, but by a 
 large number he was bitterly hated. The 
 scholars continued his worst enemies. They 
 could never forgive him for beating them so 
 completely in argument, in the days when 
 A Hoa was striving for the light, and their 
 hatred increased as they saw other scholars 
 becoming Christians under his teaching. 
 There was something about him, however, 
 that compelled their respect and even their 
 admiration. Wherever they met him — on 
 the street, by their temples, or on the coun- 
 try roads — ^he bore himself in such a way as 
 to make them confess that he was their su- 
 perior both in ability and knowledge. 
 
 103 
 
104 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 These CMnese literati had a custom which 
 Mackay found very interesting. One proud 
 scholar marching down the street and 
 scarcely noticing the obsequious bows of his 
 inferiors, would meet another equally proud 
 scholar. Each would salute the other in an 
 exceedingly grand manner, and then one 
 would spin off a quotation from the writings 
 of Confucius or some other Chinese sage 
 and say, ^^Now tell me where that is found." 
 And scholar number two had to ransack his 
 brains to remember where the saying was 
 found, or else confess himself beaten. Mac- 
 kay thought it might be a good habit for the 
 graduates of his own alma mater across the 
 wide sea to adopt. He wondered what some 
 of his old college chums would think, if, 
 when he got back to Canada, he should but- 
 tonhole one on the street some day, recite a 
 quotation from Shakespeare or Macaulay, 
 and demand from his friend where it could 
 be found. He had a suspicion that the old 
 friend would be afraid that the Oriental sun 
 had touched George Mackay 's brain. 
 
 Nevertheless he thought the custom one he 
 
THE GREAT KAI BOK-SU 105 
 
 could turn to good account, and before long 
 he was trying it himself. He had such a 
 wonderful memory that he never forgot any- 
 thing he had once read. So the scholars of 
 north Formosa soon discovered, again to 
 their humiliation, that this Kai Bok-su of 
 Tamsui could beat them at their own game. 
 They did not care how much he might pro- 
 fess to know of writers and lands beyond 
 China. Such were only barbarians anyway. 
 But when, right before a crowd, he would 
 display a surer knowledge of the Chinese 
 classics than they themselves, they began not 
 only to respect but to fear him. It was no 
 use trying to humiliate him with a quotation. 
 With his bright eyes flashing, he would tell, 
 without a moment's hesitation, where it was 
 found and come back at the questioner 
 swiftly with another, most probably one 
 long forgotten, and reel it off as though he 
 had studied Chinese all his life. 
 
 He was a wonderful man certainly, they 
 all agreed, and one whom it was not safe to 
 oppose. The common people liked him bet- 
 ter every day. He was so tactful, so kind, 
 
106 BLACK BEARDED BIVRBARIAN 
 
 and always so careful not to arouse the 
 prejudice of the heathen. He was ex- 
 tremely wise in dealing with their supersti- 
 tions. No matter how absurd or childish 
 they might be, he never ridiculed them, but 
 only strove to show the people how much 
 happier they might be if they believed in 
 Ood as their Father and in Jesus Christ as 
 their Savior. He never made light of any- 
 thing sacred to the Chinese mind, but always 
 tried to take whatever germ of good he could 
 find in their religion, and lead on from it to 
 the greater good found in Christianity. He 
 discovered that the ancestral worship made 
 the younger people kind and respectful to 
 older folk, and he saw that Chinese children 
 reverenced their parents and elders in a way 
 that he felt many of his young friends across 
 the sea would do well to copy. 
 
 One day when he and A Hoa were out on 
 a preaching tour, the wise Kai Bok-su made 
 use of this respect for parents in quieting a 
 mob. He and his comrade were standing 
 side by side on the steps of a heathen tem- 
 ple as they had done at Kelung. The angrj 
 
THE GREAT KAI BOK-SU lOT 
 
 crowd was scowling and muttering, ready to 
 throw stones as soon as the preacher uttered 
 a word. Mackay knew this, and when they 
 had sung a hymn and the people waited^ 
 ready for a riot, his voice rang out clear and 
 steady, repeating the fifth commandment^ 
 ^^ Honor thy father and thy mother : that thy 
 days may be long upon the land which the 
 Lord thy God giveth thee." A silence fell 
 over the muttering crowd, and an old 
 heathen whose cue was white and whose aged 
 hands trembled on the top of his staffs 
 nodded his head and said, *^That is heavenly 
 doctrine." The people were surprised and 
 disarmed. If the black-bearded barbarian 
 taught such truths as this, he surely was not 
 so very wicked after all. And so they lis- 
 tened attentively as he went on to show that 
 they had all one great Father, even God. 
 
 He sometimes found it rather a task to- 
 treat with respect that which the Chinese 
 held sacred. Especially was this so when he 
 discovered to his amusement and to some 
 carefully concealed disgust, that in the Chi- 
 nese family the pig was looked upon with af- 
 
108 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 lection, and as a young naval officer, who 
 Tisited Mackay remarked, ^*was treated like 
 a gentleman." 
 
 Every Chinese house of any size was 
 made up of three buildings joined together 
 so as to make three sides of an enclosure. 
 This space was called a court, and a door 
 led from it to another next the street. In 
 this outer yard pigs and fowl were always 
 to be found. Whenever the missionary 
 dropped in at a home, mother pig and all 
 the little pigs often followed him inside the 
 house, quite like members of the family. 
 Every one was always glad to see Kai 
 Bok-su, pigs and all, and as soon as he ap- 
 peared the order was given — *^ Infuse tea." 
 And when the little handleless cups of clear 
 brown liquid were passed around and they 
 all drank and chatted, Mrs. Pig and her 
 children strolled about as welcome as the 
 guest. 
 
 The Chinese would allow no one to hurt 
 their pigs, either. One day as Mackay sat 
 in his rooms facing the river, battling with 
 some new Chinese characters, he heard a 
 
THE GREAT KAI BOK-SU 109 
 
 great hubbub coining up the street. The 
 threatening mobs that used to surround his 
 house had long ago ceased to trouble him. 
 He arose in some surprise and went to the 
 door to see what was the matter. A verjr 
 unusual sight for Tamsui met his gaze. 
 Coming up the street at a wild run were 
 some half-dozen English sailors, their loose 
 blue blouses and trousers flapping madly. 
 They were evidently from a ship which Mac- 
 kay had s6en l3dng in the harbor that morn- 
 ing. 
 
 *^Give us a gun!" roared the foremost as. 
 soon as he saw the missionary. 
 
 Mackay did not possess a gun, and would 
 not have given the enraged bluejacket one 
 had he owned a dozen. But the Chinese 
 mob, roaring with fury, were coming up the 
 street after the men and he swiftly pointed 
 out a narrow alley that led down to the river, 
 *'Run down there!" he shouted to the 
 sailors. ^^You can get to your boats before 
 they find you." 
 
 They were gone in an instant, and the 
 next moment the crowd of pursuers were 
 
110 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 storming about the door demanding whither 
 the enemy had disappeared. 
 
 *^What is all this disturbance about?" de- 
 manded Kai Bok-su calmly, glad of an op- 
 portunity to gain time for the fleeing sailors. 
 
 The aggrieved Chinese gathered about 
 him, each telling the story as loud as his 
 voice would permit. Those barbarians of 
 the sea had come swaggering along the 
 streets waving their big sticks. And they 
 had dared — yes actuallj^ dared — to hit the 
 pet pigs belonging to every house as they 
 passed. The poor pigs who lay sunning 
 themselves at the door ! 
 
 This was indeed a serious offense. Mac- 
 kay could picture the rollicking sailor-lads 
 gaily whacking the lazy porkers with their 
 canes as they passed, happily unconscious of 
 the trouble they were raising. But there was 
 no amusement in Kai Bok-su 's grave face. 
 He spoke kindly, and soothingly, and prom- 
 ised that if the offenders misbehaved again 
 he would complain to the authorities. That 
 made it all right. Heathen though they 
 were, they knew Kai Bok-su 's promise 
 
THE GREAT KAI BOK-SU 111 
 
 would not be broken, and away they went 
 quite satisfied. 
 
 One day be learned, quite by accident, a 
 new and very useful way of helping his peo- 
 ple. He and A Hoa and several other young 
 men who had become Christians, went on a 
 missionary tour to Tek-chham, a large city 
 which he had visited once before. 
 
 On the day they left the place, Kai Bok- 
 su's preaching had drawn such crowds that 
 the authorities of the city became afraid of 
 him. And when the little party left, a dozen 
 soldiers were sent to follow the dangerous 
 barbarian and his students and see that they 
 did not bewitch the people on the road. 
 
 The soldiers tramped along after the mis- 
 sionary party, and with his usual ability to 
 make use of any situation, Mackay stepped 
 back and chatted with his spies. He found 
 one poor fellow in agony with the toothache. 
 This malady was very common in north For- 
 mosa, partly owing to the habit of chewing 
 the betel-nut. He examined the aching tooth 
 and found it badly decayed. ^^ There is a 
 worm in it," the soldier said, for the For- 
 
lis BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 mosan doctors had taught the people this 
 was the cause of toothache. 
 
 Mackay had no forceps, but he knew how 
 to pull a tooth, and he was not the sort to 
 be daunted by the lack of tools. He got a 
 piece of hard wood, whittled it into shape 
 and with it pried out the tooth. The relief 
 from pain was so great that the soldier al- 
 most wept for joy and overwhelmed the 
 tooth-puller with gratitude. And for the re- 
 mainder of the journey the guards sent to 
 spy on the missionary's doings were his 
 warmest friends. 
 
 After this, dentistry became a part of this 
 many-sided missionary's work. He went to 
 a native blacksmith and had a pair of for- 
 ceps hammered out of iron. It was a rather 
 clumsy instrument, but it proved of great 
 value, and later he sent for a complete set 
 of the best instruments made in New York. 
 
 So with forceps in one hand and the Bible 
 in the other, Mackay found himself doubly 
 equipped. Every second person seemed to 
 be suffering from toothache, and when the 
 pain was relieved by the missionary, the 
 
\ 
 
 .^*L 
 
 ^ 7 
 
 
 . i5 
 
 '3lfc- •>"*^(%'"^>*» -«^ -^Si' !'»P»IU, 
 
 r^^'^^ ^^V^I^IhI 
 
c • ."« c 
 
THE GREAT KAI BOK-SU US 
 
 patient was in a state of mind to receive Ms 
 teaching kindly. The cruel methods by 
 which the native doctors extracted teeth 
 often caused more suffering than the tooth- 
 ache, and sometimes even* resulted in death 
 through blood-poisoning. 
 
 A Hoa and some of the other young con- 
 verts learned from their teacher how to pull 
 a tooth, and they, too, became experts in the 
 art. 
 
 Whenever they visited a town or city 
 after this, they had a program which they 
 always followed. First they would place 
 themselves in front of an idol temple or in 
 an open square. Here they would sing a 
 hymn which always attracted a crowd. Next, 
 any one who wanted a tooth pulled was in- 
 vited to come forward. Many accepted the 
 invitation gladly and sometimes a long line 
 of twenty or thirty would be waiting, each 
 his turn. The Chinese had considerable 
 nerve, the Canadian discovered, and stood 
 the pain bravely. They literally ^* stood" it, 
 too, for there was no dentist's chair and 
 every man stood up for his operation, very 
 
114 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 much pleased and very grateful when it was 
 over. Then there were quinine and other 
 simple remedies for malaria handed round, 
 for in a Formosan crowd there were often 
 many shaking in the grip of this terrible 
 disease. And now, having opened the peo- 
 ple's hearts by his kindness, Kai Bok-s|L 
 brought forth his cure for souls. He would 
 mount the steps of the temple or stand on a 
 box or stone, and tell the wonderful old story 
 of the man Jesus who was also God, and 
 who said to all sick and weary and troubled 
 ones, **Come imto me, . . . and I will 
 give you rest. ' ' And often, when he had fin- 
 ished, the disease of sin in many a heart was 
 cured by the remedy of the gospel. 
 
 And so the autumn passed away happily 
 and busily, and Mackay entered his first For- 
 mosan winter. And such a winter! The 
 young man who had felt the clear, bright 
 cold of a Canadian January needed all his 
 fine courage to bear up under its dreariness. 
 It started about Christmas time. Just when 
 his own people far away in Canada were 
 gathering about the blazing fire or jingling 
 
THE GREAT KAI BOK-SU 115 
 
 over the crisp snow in sleighs and cutters, 
 the great winter rains commenced. Christ- 
 mas day — ^his first Christmas in a land that 
 did not know its beautiful meaning — ^was one 
 long dreary downpour. It rained steadily 
 all Christmas week. It poured on New- 
 year's day and for a week after. It came 
 down in torrents all January. February set 
 in and still it rained and rained, with only a 
 short interval each afternoon. Day and 
 night, week in, week out, it poured, until 
 Mackay forgot what sunlight looked like. 
 His house grew damp, his clothes moldy. A 
 stream broke out up in the hill behind and 
 one morning he awoke to find a cascade tum- 
 bling into his kitchen, and rushing across 
 the floor out into the river beyond. And still 
 it poured and the wind blew and everything 
 was damp and cold and dreary. 
 
 He caught an occasional glimpse of snow, 
 only a very far-off view, for it lay away up 
 on the top of a mountain, but it made his 
 heart long for just one breath of good dry 
 Canadian air, just one whiff of the keen, 
 cutting frost. 
 
116 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 But Kai Bok-su was not the sort to spend 
 these dismal days repining. Indeed he had 
 no time, even had he been so inclined. His 
 work filled up every minute of every rainy 
 day and hours of the drenched night. If 
 there was no sunshine outside there was 
 plenty in his brave heart, and A Hoa's whole 
 nature radiated brightness. 
 
 And there were many reasons for being 
 happy after all. On the second Sabbath of 
 February, 1873, just one year after his ar- 
 rival in Tamsui, the missionary announced, 
 at the close of one of his Sabbath services, 
 that he would receive a number into the 
 Christian church. There was instantly a 
 commotion among the heathen who were in 
 the house, and yells and jeers from those 
 crowding about the door outside. 
 
 ' ' We 11 stop him, ' ' they shouted. * * Let us 
 beat the converts," was another cry. 
 
 But Mackay went quietly on with the 
 beautiful ceremony in spite of the distur- 
 bance. Five young men, with A Hoa at their 
 head, came and were baptized into the name 
 of the Father, the Son, and the Holy Spirit. 
 
THE GREAT KAI BOK-SU 117 
 
 When the next Sabbath came these five 
 with their missionary sat down for the first 
 time to partake of the Lord's Supper. It 
 was a very impressive ceremony. One young 
 fellow broke down, declaring he was not 
 worthy. Mackay took him alone into his lit- 
 tle room and they prayed together, and the 
 young man came out to the Lord's Supper 
 comforted, knowing that all might be worthy 
 in Jesus Christ. 
 
 Spring came at last, bright and clear, and 
 Mackay announced to A Hoa that they must 
 go up the river and visit their friends at Go- 
 ko-khi. The two did not go alone this time. 
 Three other young men who wanted to be 
 missionaries were now spending their days 
 with their teacher, learning with A Hoa how 
 to preach the gospel. So it was quite a little 
 band of disciples that walked along the river 
 bank up to Go-ko-khi. Mackay preached 
 at all the villages along the route, and vis- 
 ited the homes of Christians. 
 
 One day, as they passed a yamen or Chi- 
 nese court-house where a mandarin was try- 
 ing some cases, they stepped in to see what 
 
118 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 was going on. At one end of the room sat 
 the mandarin who was judge. He was 
 dressed in magnificent silks and looked down 
 very haughtily upon the lesser people and 
 the retinue of servants who were gath- 
 ered about him. On either side of the 
 room stood a row of constables and near 
 them the executioners. The rest of the room 
 was filled with friends of the people on trial 
 and by the rabble from the street. The mis- 
 sionaries mixed with the former and stood 
 watching proceedings. There were no law- 
 yers, no jury. The mandarin's decision was 
 law. 
 
 The first case was one of theft. Whether 
 the man had really committed the crime or 
 not was a question freely discussed among 
 the onlookers around Mackay. But there 
 seemed no doubt as to his punishment being 
 swift and heavy. * ^ He has not paid the man- 
 darin," a friend explained to the missionary. 
 *^He will be punished." 
 
 '^The mandarin eats cash," remarked an- 
 other with a shrug. It was a saying to which 
 Mackay had become accustomed. For it was 
 
 ) 
 
THE GREAT KAI BOK-SU 119 
 
 one of the shameless proverbs of poor, op- 
 pressed Formosa. 
 
 The case was soon finished. Nothing was 
 definitely proven against the man. But the 
 mandarin pronounced the sentence of death. 
 The victim was hurried out, shrieking his 
 innocence, and praying for mercy. Case fol- 
 lowed case, each one becoming more revolt- 
 ing than the last to the eyes of the young 
 man accustomed to British justice. Impris- 
 onment and torture were meted out to pris- 
 oners, and even witnesses were laid hold of 
 and beaten on the face by the executioners 
 if their tale did not suit the mandarin. Men 
 who were plainly guilty but who had given 
 their judge a liberal bribe were let off, while 
 innocent men were made to pay heavy fines 
 or were thrown into prison. 
 
 The young missionary went out and on his 
 way sickened by the sights he had witnessed. 
 And as he went, he raised his eyes to heaven 
 and prayed fervently that he might be a 
 faithful preacher of the gospel, and that one 
 day Formosa would be a Christian land and 
 injustice and oppression be done away. 
 
120 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 The next scene was a happier one. There 
 was an earnest little band of Christians in 
 Go-ko-khi, and two of the young people were 
 about to be married. It was the first Chris- 
 tian marriage in the place and Kai Bok-su 
 was called upon to officiate. There was a 
 great deal of opposition raised among the 
 heathen, but after seeing the ceremony, they, 
 all voted a Christian wedding everythiilg 
 that was beautiful and good. 
 
BESIEGING HEAD-HUNTERS 
 
CHAPTER VII 
 
 BESIEGING HEAD-HUNTEES 
 
 AlTHEISr they returned from their trip, 
 ^ ^ Mackay and A Hoa with the assist- 
 ance of some of their Christian friends set 
 about looking for a new house in a more 
 wholesome district. It was much easier for 
 the missionary to rent a place now, and he 
 managed to secure a comfortable home upon 
 the bluff above the town. It was a dryer 
 situation and much more healthful. Here 
 one room was used as a study and every 
 morning when not away on a tour a party 
 of young men gathered in it for lessons. 
 Sometimes, what with traveling, preaching, 
 training his students, visiting the sick, and 
 pulling teeth, Mackay had scarcely time to 
 eat, and very little to sleep. But always as 
 he came and went on his travels, his eyes 
 vrould wander to the mountains where the 
 
 123 
 
IM BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 savages lived, and with all his heart he 
 would wish that he might visit them also. 
 
 His Chinese friends held up their hands 
 in dismay when he broached the subject. To 
 the mountains where the Chhi-hoan lived! 
 Did Kai Bok-su not know that every man' 
 of them was a practised head-hunter, and 
 that behind every rock and tree and in the 
 darkness of the forests they lay in wait for 
 any one who went beyond the settled dis- 
 tricts ? Yes, Kai Bok-su knew all that, but 
 he could not quite explain that it was just 
 that which made the thought of a visit to 
 them seem so alluring, just that which made 
 him so anxious to tell them of Jesus Christ, 
 who wished all men to live as brothers. A 
 Hoa and a few others who had caught the 
 spirit of the true soldier of the cross under- 
 stood. For they had learned that one who 
 follows Jesus must be ready to dare any- 
 thing, death included, to carry the news of 
 his salvation to the dark corners of the 
 world. 
 
 But the days were so filled with preach- 
 ing, teaching, and touring, that for some 
 
BESIEGING HEAD-HUNTERS 125 
 
 time Mackay had no opportunity for a trip 
 into the head-hunters' territory. And then 
 one day, quite unexpectedly, his chance 
 came. 
 
 There sailed into Tamsui harbor, one hot 
 afternoon, a British man-of-war, named The 
 Dwarf. Captain Bax from this vessel 
 (visited Tamsui, and expressed a desire to see 
 something of the life of the savages in the 
 mountains. This was Mackay 's opportu- 
 nity, and in spite of protests from his 
 friends he offered to accompany the captain. 
 So together they started off, the sailor-sol- 
 dier of England and the soldier of the cross, 
 each with the same place in view but each 
 with a very different object. 
 
 It took three days' journey from Tamsui 
 across rice-fields and up hillsides to reach 
 even the foot of the mountains. Here there 
 lived a village of natives, closely related to 
 the savages. But they were not given to 
 head-hunting and were quite friendly with 
 the people about them. Mackay had met 
 some of these people on a former trip inland, 
 and now he and Captain Bax hired their 
 
126 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 chief and a party of his men to guide them 
 up into savage territory. 
 
 The travelers slept that night in the vil- 
 lage, and before dawn were up and ready to 
 start on their dangerous undertaking. Be- 
 fore them in the gray dawn rose hill upon 
 hill, each loftier than the last, till they melted 
 into the mountains, the territory of the 
 dreaded head-hunters. They started off on 
 a steady tramp, up hills, down valleys, and 
 across streams, until at last they came to the 
 foot of the first mountain. 
 
 Before them rose its sheer side, towering 
 thirty-five hundred feet above their heads. 
 It was literally covered with rank growth of 
 all kinds, through which it was impossible 
 to move. So a plan of march had to be de- 
 cided upon. In front went a line of men 
 with long sharp knives. With these they cut 
 away the creepers and tangled scrub or 
 undergrowth. Next came the coolies with 
 the baggage, and last the two travelers. It 
 was slow work, and sometimes the climb was 
 so steep they held their breath, as they crept 
 over a sheer ledge and saw the depth below 
 
BESIEGING HEAD-HUNTERS 127 
 
 to which they might easily be hurled. The 
 -chief of the guides himself collapsed in one 
 terrible climb, and his men tied rattan ropes 
 about him and hauled him up over the steep- 
 est places. 
 
 During this wearisome ascent the most 
 untiring one was the missionary; and the 
 sailor often looked at him in amazement. 
 His lithe, wiry frame never seemed to grow 
 weary. He was often in the advance line, 
 •cutting his way through the tangle, and here 
 on that first afternoon he met with an un- 
 pleasant adventure. 
 
 The natives had warned the two strangers 
 to be on the lookout for poisonous snakes, 
 and Mackay's year in Formosa had taught 
 him to be wary. But he had forgotten all 
 danger in the toilsome climb. He was soon 
 reminded of it. They were passing up a 
 slope covered with long dense grass when a 
 rustling at his side made the young mission- 
 ary pause. The next moment a huge cobra 
 sprang out from a clump of grass and struck 
 at him. Mackay sprang aside just in time 
 to escape its deadly fangs. The guides 
 
1^8 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 rushed up with their spears only to see its 
 horrible scaly length disappear in the long 
 grass. 
 
 That was not the only escape of the young 
 adventurer, for there were wild animals as 
 well as poisonous snakes along the line of 
 inarch, and the man in the front was always 
 in danger. But at the front Mackay must 
 be in spite of all warning. Nobody moved 
 fast enough for him. 
 
 At last they reached the summit of the 
 range. They were now on the dividing line 
 between Chinese ground and savage terri- 
 tory, and the men who dared go a step far- 
 ther went at terrible risk. The head-hunt- 
 ers would very likely see that they did not 
 return. 
 
 But Mackay was all for pushing forward, 
 and Captain Bax was no less eager. So 
 they spent a night in the forest and the next 
 day marched on up another and higher 
 range. As they journeyed, the travelers 
 could not but burst into exclamations of de- 
 light at the loveliness about them. Behind 
 those great trees and in those tangles of 
 
BESIEGING HEAD-HUNTERS 129 
 
 vines might lurk the head-hunters, but for 
 all that the beauty of the place made them 
 forget the dangers. The great banyan trees 
 whose branches came down and took root in 
 the earth, making a wonderful round leafy 
 tent, grew on every side. Camphor trees 
 towered far above them and then spread out 
 great branches sixty or seventy feet from 
 the ground. Then there was the rattan 
 creeping out over the tops of the other trees 
 and making a thick canopy through which 
 the hot tropical sun-rays could not penetrate. 
 
 And the flowers ! Sometimes Mackay and 
 Bax would stand amazed at their beauty. 
 They came one afternoon to an open glade 
 in the cool green dimness of the forest. On 
 all sides the stately tree-ferns rose up thirty 
 or forty feet above them, and underneath 
 grew a tangle of lovely green undergrowth. 
 
 And upon this green carpet it -seemed to 
 their dazzled eyes that thousands of butter- 
 flies of the loveliest form and color had just 
 alighted. And not only butterflies, but birds 
 and huge insects and all sorts of winged 
 creatures, pink and gold and green and scar- 
 
130 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 let and blue, and all variegated hues. But 
 the lovely things sat motionless, sending out 
 such a delightful perfume that there could 
 be no doubt that they were flowers, — the 
 wonderful orchids of Formosa ! Mackay was 
 a keen scientist, always highly interested in 
 botany, and he was charmed with this sight. 
 There were many such in the forest, and 
 often he would stop spellbound before a 
 blaze of flowers hanging from tree or vine 
 or shrub. Then he would look up at the 
 tangled growths of the bamboo, the palm, 
 and the elegant tree-fern, standing there all 
 silent and beautiful, and he would be struck 
 by the harmony between God's work and 
 Word. *^I can't keep from studying the 
 flora of Formosa," he said to Captain Bax. 
 *^What missionary would not be a better 
 man, the bearer of a richer gospel, what con- 
 vert would not be a more enduring Chris- 
 tian from becoming acquainted with such 
 wonderful works of the Creator?" 
 
 At last they stood on the summit of the 
 second range and saw before them still more 
 mountains, clothed from summit to base 
 
BESIEGING HEAD-HUNTERS 131 
 
 with trees. They were now right in savage 
 territory and their guide clambered out upon 
 a spur of rock and announced that there 
 was a party of head-hunters in the valley 
 below. He gave a long halloo. From away 
 down in the valley came an answering call, 
 ringing through the forest. Then far down 
 through the thicket Mackay 's sharp eyes de- 
 scried the party coming up to meet them. 
 Just then their own guide gave the signal 
 to move on, and the missionary and Captain 
 Bax walked down the hill — the first white 
 men who had ever come out to meet those 
 savages. 
 
 Half-way down the slope the two parties 
 came face to face. The head-hunters were 
 a wild, uncouth-looking company, armed to 
 the teeth. They all carried guns, spears, 
 and knives and some had also bows and ar- 
 rows slung over their backs. Their faces 
 were hideously tattooed in a regular pattern, 
 while they wore no more clothes than were 
 necessary. A sort of sack of coarse linen 
 with holes in the sides for their arms, served 
 as the chief garment, and generally the only 
 
18^ BLACK BEARDED BARBAR IAN 
 
 one. Every one wore a broad belt of woven 
 rattan in which was stuck his crooked 
 pointed knife. Some of the younger men 
 had their coats ornamented with bright red 
 and blue threads woven into the texture. 
 IThey had brass rings on their arms and legs 
 too, and even sported big earrings. These 
 were ugly looking things made of bamboo 
 sticks. The head-hunters were all bare- 
 footed, but most of them wore caps — queer- 
 looking things, made of rattan. Prom many 
 of them hung bits of skin of the boar or 
 other wild animals they had killed. They 
 stood staring suspiciously at the two stran- 
 gers. Never before had they seen a white 
 man, and the appearance of the naval officer 
 and the missionary, so different from them- 
 selves, and yet so different from their hated 
 enemies, the Chinese, filled them with amaze- 
 ment and a good deal of suspicion. After 
 a little talk with the guides, however, the 
 visitors were allowed to pass on. As soon 
 as they began to move, the savages fell into 
 line behind them and followed closely. The 
 two white men, walking calmly onward, 
 

 BESIEGING HEAD-HUNTERS 133 
 
 could not help thinking how easy it would 
 be for one of those fierce-looking tattooed 
 braves to win applause by springing upon 
 both of them and carrying their heads in 
 triumph to the next village. 
 
 As they came down farther into the val- 
 ley, they passed the place where the savages 
 had their camp. Here naked children and 
 tattooed women crept out of the dense woods 
 to stare at the queer-looking Chinamen who 
 had white faces and wore no cue. 
 
 The march through this valley, even with- 
 out the head-hunters at their heels, would 
 not have been easy. The visitors clambered 
 over huge trunks blown across the path, and 
 tore their clothes and hands scrambling 
 through the thorny bushes. The sun was 
 still shining on the mountain-peaks far 
 above them, but away down here in the val- 
 ley it was rapidly growing dark and very 
 cold. They had almost decided to stop and 
 wait for morning when a light ahead en- 
 couraged them to go on. They soon came 
 upon a big camp-fire and round it were 
 squatted several hundred savages. The fire- 
 
134 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 light gleaming upon the dark, fierce faces of 
 the head-hunters and on their spears and 
 knives, made a startling picture. 
 
 They were round the visitors immediately, 
 staring at the two white men in amazement. 
 The party of savages who had escorted them 
 seemed to be making some explanation of 
 their appearance, for they all subsided at 
 last and once more sat round their fire. 
 
 The newcomers started a fire of their own^ 
 and their servants cooked their food. The 
 white men were in momentary danger of 
 their lives. But they sat on the ground be- 
 fore the fire and quietly ate their supper 
 while hundreds of savage eyes were fixed 
 upon them in suspicious, watchful silence. 
 
 The meal over the servants prepared a 
 place for the travelers to sleep, and while 
 they were so doing, the young missionary 
 was not idle. He longed to speak to these 
 poor, darkened heathen, but they could not 
 understand Chinese. However, he found 
 several poor fellows lying prostrate on the 
 ground, overcome with malaria, and he got 
 his guide to ask if he might not give the 
 
BESIEGING HEAD-HUNTERS 135 
 
 sick ones medicine. Being allowed to do so, 
 he gave each one a dose of quinine. The 
 poor creatures tried to look their gratitude 
 when the terrible chills left them, and soon 
 they were able to sink into sleep. 
 
 Before he retired to his own bed of 
 boughs, the young missionary sang that 
 grand old anthem which these lonely woods 
 and their savage inhabitants had never yet 
 heard : 
 
 All people that on earth do dwell, 
 Sing to the Lord with cheerful voice. 
 
 But these poor people could not ^^sing to the 
 Lord," for they had never yet so much as 
 heard his name. 
 
 All night the missionary lay on the 
 ground, finding the chill mountain air too 
 cold for sleep, and whenever he looked out 
 from his shelter of boughs he saw hundreds 
 of savage eyes, gleaming in the firelight, still 
 wide open and fixed upon him. 
 
 Day broke late in the valley, but the trav- 
 elers were astir in the morning twilight. 
 The mountain-tops were touched with rosy 
 
136 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 light even while it was dark down in these 
 forest depths. 
 
 The chilled white men were glad to get 
 up and exercise their stiffened limbs. There 
 were several of their party who could speak 
 l3oth Chinese and the dialect of these moun- 
 taineers, and through them Mackay per- 
 suaded the chief of the tribe to take them 
 to visit his village. 
 
 He seemed reluctant at first and there was 
 much discussion with his braves. Evidently 
 they were more anxious to go on a head-hunt 
 than to act the part of hosts. However, 
 after a great deal of chatter, they consented, 
 and the chief and his son with thirty men 
 rseparated themselves from the rest of the 
 band and led the way out of the valley up 
 the mountainside. The travelers had to stop 
 often, for, besides the natural difficulties of 
 the way, the chief proved a new obstacle. 
 Every mile or so he would apparently repent 
 of his hospitality. He would stop, gather his 
 tattooed braves about him and confer with 
 them, while his would-be visitors sat on the 
 ground or a fallen tree-trunk to await his 
 
BESIEGING HEAD-HUNTERS 137 
 
 pleasure. Finally lie would start off again, 
 the travelers following, but no sooner were 
 they under way than again their uncertain 
 guide would stop. Once he and his men 
 stood motionless, listening. Away up in the 
 boughs of a camphor tree a little tailor-bird 
 was twittering. The savages listened as 
 though to the voice of an oracle. 
 
 *'What are they doing?" Mackay asked 
 of one of his men, when the head-hunters 
 stopped a second time and stared earnestly 
 at the boughs above. 
 
 ^^Bird-listening," explained the guide. A 
 few more questions drew from him the fact 
 that the savages believed the little birds 
 would tell them whether or not they should 
 bring these strangers home. They always 
 consulted the birds when starting out on a 
 head-hunt, he further explained. If the 
 birds gave a certain kind of chirp and flew 
 in a certain direction, then all was well, and 
 the hunters would go happily forward. But 
 if the birds acted in the opposite way, noth- 
 ing in the world could persuade the chief to 
 go on. Evidently the birds gave their per- 
 
188 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 mission to bring the travelers home, for in 
 spite of many halts, the savages still moved 
 forward. 
 
 They had been struggling for some miles 
 through underbrush and prickly rattan and 
 the white men's clothes were torn and their 
 hands scratched. Now, however, they came 
 upon a well-beaten path, winding up the 
 mountainside, and it proved a great relief 
 to the weary travelers. But here occurred 
 another delay. The savages all stopped, and 
 the chief approached Mackay and spoke to 
 him through the interpreter. Would the 
 white man join him in a head-hunting expe- 
 dition, was his modest request. There were 
 some Chinese not so far below them, cutting 
 out rattan, and he was sure they could se- 
 cure one or more heads. He shook the big 
 net head-bag that hung over his shoulder 
 and grinned savagely as he made his pro- 
 posal. If the white men and their party 
 would come at the enemy from one side, he 
 and his men would attack them from the 
 other, he said, and they would be sure to 
 get them all. The incongruity of a Christian 
 
BESIEGING HEAD-HUNTERS 139 
 
 missionary being invited on a head-hunt 
 struck Captain Bax as rather funny in spite 
 of its gruesomeness. This was a delicate sit- 
 uation to handle, but Mackay put a bold 
 front on it. He answered indignantly that 
 he and his friend had come in peace to visit 
 the chief, and that he was neither kind nor 
 honorable in trying to get his visitors to 
 fight his battles. 
 
 The interpreter translated and for a mo- 
 ment several pairs of savage eyes gleamed 
 angrily at the bold white man. But second 
 thoughts proved calmer. After another 
 council the savages moved on. 
 
 They were now at the top of a range, and 
 every one was ordered to halt and remain 
 silent. Mackay thought that advice was 
 again to be asked of some troublesome little 
 birds, but instead the savages raised a pe- 
 culiar long-drawn shout. It was answered 
 at once from the opposite mountain-top, and 
 immediately the whole party moved on down 
 the slope. 
 
 Here was the same lovely tangle of vines 
 and ferns and beautiful flowers. Monkeys 
 
140 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 sported in the trees and chattered and 
 scolded the intruders. Down one range and 
 up another they scrambled and at last they 
 came upon the village of the head-hunters. 
 
 It lay in a valley in an open space where 
 the forest trees had been cleared awav. It 
 consisted of some half-dozen houses or huts 
 made of bamboo or wickerwork, and the 
 place seemed literally swarming with women 
 and children and noisy yelping dogs. But 
 even these could not account for the terrible 
 din that seemed to fill the valley. Such un- 
 earthly yells and screeches the white men 
 had never heard before. 
 
 ''What is it?" asked Captain Bax. ''Has 
 the whole village gone mad?'' 
 
 Mackay turned to one of his guides, and 
 the man explained that the noise came from 
 a village a little farther down the valley. A 
 young hunter had returned with a China- 
 man's head, and his friends were rejoicing 
 over it. The merrymaking sounded to the 
 visitors more like the howling of a pack of 
 fiends, for it bore no resemblance to any 
 human sounds they had ever heard. 
 
BESIEGING HEAD-HUNTERS 141 
 
 Fortunately they were invited to stop at 
 the nearer village and were not compelled to 
 take part in the horrible celebration. They 
 were taken at once to the chief's house. It 
 was the best in the village, and boasted of a 
 floor, made of rattan ropes half an inch 
 thick. All along the outside wall, under the 
 eaves, hung a row of gruesome ornaments, 
 heads of the boar and deer and other wild 
 animals killed in the chase, and here and 
 there mingled with them the skulls of China- 
 men. The house held one large room, and, 
 as it was a cold evening, a fire burned at 
 either end of it. At one end the men stood 
 chatting, at the other the women squatted. 
 The visitors were invited to sit by the men's 
 fire. There were several beds along the wall, 
 two of which were offered to the strangers. 
 But they were not prepared to remain for 
 the night, and had decided to start back be- 
 fore the shadows fell. 
 
 The whole village came to the chief's house 
 and crowded round the newcomers, men first, 
 women and children on the outskirts, and 
 dogs still farther back. Several men came 
 
142 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 forward and claimed Mackay as a friend. 
 They touched their own breasts and then 
 his, in salutation, grinning in a most friendly 
 manner. The young missionary was at first 
 puzzled, then smiled delightedly. They were 
 some of the poor fellows to whom he had 
 given quinine the evening before in the val- 
 ley. 
 
 This greeting seemed to encourage the 
 others. They became more friendly and 
 suddenly one man who had been circling 
 round the visitors touched the back of 
 Mackay 's head and exclaimed, ^^They do not 
 wear the cue! They are our kinsmen." 
 Prom that moment they were treated with 
 far greater kindness, and on several other 
 
 visits that Mackav made to the head-hunt- 
 
 »/ 
 
 ers, they always spoke with interest of him 
 as kinsman. 
 
 But all danger was not over. The savages 
 were still suspicious, and at any moment the 
 newcomers might excite them. So they de- 
 cided to start back at once, while every one 
 was in a friendly mood. They made pres- 
 ents to the chief and some of his leading 
 
BESIEGING HEAD-HUNTERS 143 
 
 men ; and left with expressions of good-will 
 on both sides. 
 
 By evening they had reached the valley 
 where they had first met the savages and 
 here they prepared to spend the night. They 
 had no sooner kindled their fires than from 
 the darkness on every side shadowy forms 
 silently emerged, — the savages come to visit 
 them! They glided out of the black forest 
 into the ring of firelight and squatted upon 
 the ground until fully five hundred dusky 
 faces looked out at the travelers from the 
 gloom. It was rather an unpleasant situa- 
 tion, there in the depths of the forest, but 
 Mackay turned it to good account. First he 
 and Captain Bax made presents to the head- 
 men and they were as pleased as children 
 to receive the gay ornaments and bright 
 cloth the travelers gave them. And then 
 Mackay called their interpreter to his side 
 and they stood up together, facing the 
 crowd. Speaking through his interpreter, 
 the missionary said he wished to tell them a 
 story. These mountain savages were veri- 
 table children in their love for a story, as 
 
144 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 they were in so many other ways, and their 
 eyes gleamed with delight. 
 
 It was a wonderful story he told them, the 
 like of which they had never heard before. 
 It was about the great God, who had made 
 the earth and the people on it, and was the 
 Father of them all. He told how God loved 
 everybody, because they were his children. 
 Chinese, white men beyond the sea like him- 
 self and Captain Bax, the people of the 
 mountains, — all were God's children. And 
 so all men were brothers, and should love 
 God their Father and each other. And be- 
 cause God loved his children so, he sent his 
 Son, Jesus Christ, to live among men and to 
 die for them. He told the story simply and 
 beautifully, just as he would to little chil- 
 dren, and these children of the forest lis- 
 tened and their savage eyes grew less fierce 
 as they heard for the first time of the story 
 of the Savior. 
 
 The next day, after a toilsome journey, 
 the travelers reached the plain below. They 
 had made their dangerous trip and had es- 
 caped the head-hunters, but as fierce an en- 
 
BESIEGING HEAD-HUNTERS 145 
 
 emy was lying in wait for both, an enemy 
 that in Formosa devours native and for- 
 eigner alike. Captain Bax was the first to 
 be attacked. All day, as they descended the 
 mountain, the rain came down in torrents, 
 a real Formosan rain that is like the flood- 
 gates opening. The travelers were drenched 
 and chilly, and just as they emerged from 
 the forest Captain Bax succumbed to the 
 enemy. Malaria had smitten him. 
 
 Shaking with chills and then burning with 
 fever, he was placed in a sedan-chair and 
 carried the remainder of the way, three 
 days' journey, to the coast, where the med- 
 ical attendants on board his ship cured him. 
 Mackay was feeling desperately ill all the 
 way across the plain, but with his usual de- 
 termination he refused to give in until he 
 almost staggered across the threshold of his 
 home. 
 
 The house had been closed in his absence. 
 It was now damp and chilly and everything 
 was covered with mold. He lay down in his 
 bed, alternately shivering with cold and 
 burning with fever. In the next room A 
 
146 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 Hoa, who had gone to bed also, heard his 
 teeth chattering and came to him at once. It 
 was a terrible thing to the young fellow to 
 see his dauntless Kai Bok-su overcome bv 
 any kind of force. It seemed impossible that 
 he who had cured so many should become a 
 victim himself. A Hoa proved a kind nurse. 
 He stayed by the bedside all night, doing 
 everything in his power to allay the fever. 
 His efforts proved successful, and in a few 
 days the patient was well. But never again 
 was he quite free from the dreaded disease, 
 and all the rest of his life he was subject 
 to the most violent attacks of malaria, a 
 terrible memento by which he was always 
 to remember his first visit to the head- 
 hunters. 
 
CITIES CAPTUEED AND FOETS 
 BUILT 
 
CHAPTER VIII 
 
 CITIES CAPTURED AND FORTS BUILT 
 
 UP the river to Go-ko-kM! That was al- 
 ., ways a joy, and whenever Mackay 
 could take a day from his many duties, with 
 A Hoa and one or more other students, he 
 would go up and visit old Thah-so and tho 
 kindly people of this little village. 
 
 One day, after they had preached in the 
 empty granary and the rain had come in, 
 Mr. Tan, the headman, walked up the village 
 street with them, and he made them an offer. 
 They might have the plot of ground opposite 
 his house for a chapel-site. This was grand 
 news. A chapel in north Formosa ! Mackay 
 could hardly believe it, but it seemed that 
 there really was to be one. There were 
 many Christians in Go-ko-khi now, and each 
 one was ready for work. Some collected 
 stones, others prepared sun-dried bricks, 
 
 149 
 
150 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 others dug the foundation, and the first 
 church in north Formosa was commenced. 
 
 Now Go-ko-khi was, unfortunately, near 
 the great city of Bang-kah. This was the 
 most hostile and wicked place in all that 
 country, and A Hoa and Mackay had been 
 stoned out of it on their visit there. The 
 people in Bang-kah learned of the new 
 church building, and one day, when the brick 
 walls were about three feet high, there arose 
 a tramp of feet, beating of drums, and loud 
 shouts, and up marched a detachment of sol- 
 diers sent with orders from the prefect of 
 Bang-kah to stop the building of the chapel. 
 Their officers went straight to the house, of 
 the headman with his commands. Mr. Tan 
 was six feet two and he rose to his full 
 height and towered above his visitor ma- 
 jestically. The ^^ mayor" of Go-ko-khi was 
 a Christian now, and on the wall of his house 
 was pasted a large sheet of paper with the 
 ten commandments printed on it. He pointed 
 to this and said : ^ * I am determined to abide 
 by these. ' ' The officer was taken aback. He 
 was scarcely prepared to defy the headman, 
 
CITIES CAPTURED AND FORTS BUILT 151 
 
 and lie went away to stir up the villagers. 
 But everywhere the soldiers met with oppo- 
 sition. There seemed no one who would take 
 their part. The officer knew he and his men 
 were scarcely within their rights in what 
 they were doing; so, fearing trouble, he 
 marched back to the city, reporting there 
 that the black-bearded barbarian had be- 
 witched the villagers with some magic art. 
 
 The prefect of Bang-kah next sent a mes- 
 sage to the British consul. The missionary 
 was building a fort at Go-ko-khi, he de- 
 clared in great alarm, and would probably 
 bring guns up the river at night. He was 
 a very bad man indeed, and if the British 
 consul desired peace he should stop this 
 wicked Kai Bok-su at once. And the Brit- 
 ish consul down in his old Dutch fort at 
 Tamsui laughed heartily over the letter, 
 knowing all about Kai Bok-su and the sort 
 of fort he was building. 
 
 So, in spite of all opposition, the little 
 church rose steadily up and up until it was 
 crowned with a tiled roof and was ready for 
 the worshipers. 
 
152 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 That was a great day for north Formosa 
 and its young missionary, the day the first 
 church was opened. The place was packed 
 to the doors, and many stood outside listen- 
 ing at the windows. And of that crowd one 
 hundred and fifty arose and declared that 
 from henceforth they would cast away their 
 idols and worship only the one and true God. 
 Standing up there in his first pulpit and 
 looking down upon the crowd of upturned 
 faces, and seeing the new light in them 
 which the blessed good news of Jesus and 
 his love had brought, Kai Bok-su's heart 
 swelled with joy. 
 
 He stayed with them some time after this, 
 for, though so many people had become 
 Christians, they were like little children and 
 needed much careful teaching. Especially 
 they must learn how to live as Jesus Christ 
 would have his followers live. Many heathen 
 as well as the Christians came to his meet- 
 ings and listened eagerly. At first the peo- 
 ple found it almost impossible to sit quiet 
 and still during a service. They had never 
 been accustomed to such a task, and some 
 
CITIES CAPTURED AND FORTS BUILT 153 
 
 of the missionary's experiences were very 
 funny. When they had sung a hymn and 
 had settled down to listen to the address, the 
 preacher would no sooner start than out 
 w^ould come one long pipe after another, 
 pieces of flint would strike on steel, and in a 
 few minutes the smoke would begin to as- 
 cend. Mackay would pause and gently tell 
 them that as this was a Christian service 
 they must not do anything that might dis- 
 turb it. They were anxious to do just as he 
 bade, so the pipes would disappear, and nod- 
 ding their heads politely they would say, 
 *'0h, yes, we must be quiet; oh, yes, in- 
 deed." 
 
 One day when the congregation was very 
 still and their young pastor was speaking 
 earnest words to them, one man less atten- 
 tive than the others happened to glance out 
 of the window. Instantly he sprang to his 
 feet shouting, ^^ Buffaloes in the rice-fields! 
 Buffaloes in the rice-fields!" and away he 
 went with a good fraction of the congrega- 
 tion helter-skelter at his heels. 
 
 The missionary spoke again upon the ne- 
 
151 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 cessity of quiet, and his hearers nodded 
 agreeably and murmured, ^^Yes, yes, we 
 must be quiet.'' 
 
 They were very good for the next few 
 minutes and the minister had reached a very 
 important point in his address, when there 
 was a great disturbance at the door. An old 
 woman came hobbling up on her small feet 
 and poking her head in at the church door 
 screamed, ^^My pig has gone ! Pig has gone ! " 
 and away went another portion of the con- 
 gregation to help find the truant porker. 
 
 But, in spite of many interruptions, the 
 congregation at Go-ko-khi learned much of 
 the beautiful truth of their new religion. 
 Their indulgent pastor never blamed his 
 restless hearers, but before the church was 
 two months old he had trained them so well 
 that there was not a more orderly and atten- 
 tive congregation even in his own Christian 
 Canada than that which gathered in the first 
 chapel in north Formosa. 
 
 But the day came at last when he had to 
 leave them, and the question was who should 
 be left over them. The answer seemed very 
 
CITIES CAPTURED AND FORTS BUILT 155 
 
 plain, — ^A Hoa. The first convert placed as 
 pastor over the first church! It was very 
 fitting. Some months before, down in Tam- 
 sui, when A Hoa had been baptized and' had 
 taken his first communion, he had vowed to 
 give his life more fully to his Master's serv- 
 ice. So here was his field of labor, and here 
 he began his work. He was so utterly sin- 
 cere and lovable, so bright and jovial, so firm 
 of purpose and yet so kindly, that he wa& 
 soon beloved by all the Christians and re- 
 spected by the heathen. And one of his 
 greatest helpers was widow Thah-so, who 
 had been instrumental in bringing the mis- 
 sionary with his glad tidings to her village. 
 
 Mackay missed A Hoa sorely at first, but 
 he had his other students about him, and 
 often when bent upon a long journey would 
 send for his first convert, and together they 
 would travel here and there over the island, 
 making new recruits everywhere for the 
 army of their great Captain. 
 
 The little church at Go-ko-khi was but the 
 first of many. Like the hepaticas that used 
 to peep forth in the missionary's home 
 
156 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 woods, telling that spring had arrived, here 
 and there they came up, showing that the 
 long cruel winter of heathenism in north 
 Formosa was drawing to an end. 
 
 Away up the Tamsui river, nestled at the 
 foot of the mountains, stood a busy town 
 called Sin-tiam. A young man from this 
 place sailed down to Tamsui on business one 
 day and there heard the great Kai Bok-su 
 preach of the new Jehovah-God. He went 
 liome full of the wonderful news, and so 
 much did he talk about it that a large num- 
 ber of people in Sin-tiam were very anxious 
 to hear the barbarian themselves. So one 
 day a delegation came down the river to the 
 house on the bluff above Tamsui. They 
 made this request known to the missionary 
 as he sat teaching his students in the study. 
 Would he not come and tell the people of 
 Sin-tiam the story about this Jesus-God who 
 loved all men ? Would he go ? Kai Bok-su 
 was on the road almost before the slow-going 
 Orientals had finished delivering the mes- 
 ;sage. 
 
 It was the season of a feast to their idols 
 
CITIES CAPTURED AND FORTS BUILT 15T 
 
 in Sin-tiam when the missionary and his 
 party arrived. Great crowds thronged the 
 streets, and the barbarian with his white 
 face and his black beard and his queer 
 clothes attracted unusual attention. The fa- 
 miliar cry, ^^ Foreign devil," was mingled 
 with ^^Kill the barbarian," ^^Down with the 
 foreigner." 
 
 The crowd began to surge closer around 
 the missionary party, and affairs looked 
 very serious. Suddenly a little boy right in 
 Mackay's path was struck on the head by a 
 brick intended for the missionary. He was 
 picked up, and Mackay, pressing through 
 the crowd to where the little fellow lay, took 
 out his surgical instruments and dressed the 
 wound. All about him the cries of ^^Kill the 
 foreign devil" changed to cries of **Good 
 heart! Good heart!" The crowd became 
 friendly at once, and Mackay passed on, 
 having had once more a narrow escape from 
 death. 
 
 The work of preaching to these people 
 was carried on vigorously, and before many 
 months had passed the Christians met to- 
 
158 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 gether and declared they must build a chapel 
 for the worship of the true God. 
 
 So, close by the riverside, in a most pic- 
 turesque spot, the walls of the second chapel 
 of north Formosa began to rise. It was not 
 without opposition of course. One rabid 
 idol-worshiper stopped before the half -fin- 
 ished building with its busy workmen, and, 
 picking up a large stone, declared that he 
 would smash the head of the black-bearded 
 barbarian if the work was not stopped that 
 moment. Needless to say, the missionary, 
 standing within a good stone's throw of his 
 enemy, ordered the workers to continue. 
 George Mackay was not to be stopped by all 
 the stones in north Formosa. 
 
 This stone was never thrown, however, 
 and at last the chapel was finished. Once 
 more a preacher was ready to be its pastor. 
 Tan He, a young man who had been study- 
 ing earnestly under his leader for some time, 
 was placed over this second congregation, 
 and once more there blossomed out a sure 
 sign that the spring had indeed come to 
 north Formosa. 
 
CITIES CAPTURED AND FORTS BUILT 159 
 
 Tek-cKham, a walled city of over forty 
 thousand inhabitants, was the next place to 
 be attacked by this little army of the King's 
 soldiers. The first visit of the missionary 
 caused a riot, but before long Tek-chham had 
 a chapel with some of the rioters for its best 
 members, and a once proud graduate and 
 worshiper of Confucius installed in it as its 
 pastor. 
 
 Ten miles from Tek-chham stood a little 
 village called Geh-bai. The missionary-sol- 
 diers visited it, and to their delight found a 
 church building ready for them. It was 
 quite a wonderful place, capable of holding 
 fully a thousand people without much 
 crowding. Its roof was the boughs of the 
 great banyan tree ; its one pillar the trunl^, 
 and its walls the branches that bent down to 
 enter the ground and take root. It made a 
 delightful shelter from the broiling sun. 
 And here Kai Bok-su preached. But a ban- 
 yan does not give perfect shelter in all kinds 
 of weather, so when a number of people had 
 declared themselves followers of the Lord 
 Jesus, a large house was rented and fitted up 
 
160 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 as a chapel, with another native pastor 
 oyer it. 
 
 Away oyer at Kelnng a church was 
 founded through a man who had carried the 
 gospel home from one of the missionary's 
 sermons. Here and there the hepaticas were 
 springing up. From all sides came inyita- 
 tions to preach the great news of the true 
 God, and the young missionary gaye himself 
 scarcely time to eat or sleep. He worked 
 like a giant himself, and he inspired the 
 same spirit in the students that accompanied 
 him. He was like a Napoleon among his sol- 
 diers. Whereyer he went they would go, 
 eyen though it would surely mean abuse and 
 might mean death. And, whereyer they 
 went, they brought such a wonderful, glad 
 change to people's hearts that they were like 
 slaye-liberators setting captives free. 
 
 The most lawless and dangerous region in 
 all north Formosa was that surrounding the 
 small town of Sa-kak-eng. In the mountains 
 near by lived a band of robbers who kept the 
 people in a constant state of dread by their 
 terrible deeds of plunder and murder. Some- 
 
CITIES CAPTURED AND FORTS BUILT 161 
 
 times the frightened townspeople would help 
 the highwaymen just to gain their good-will, 
 and such treatment only made them bolder. 
 Bands of them would even come down into 
 the town and march through the streets, 
 frightening every one into flight. They 
 would shout and sing, and their favorite 
 song was one that showed how little they 
 cared for the laws of the land. 
 
 You trust the mandarins, 
 We trust the mountains. 
 
 So the song went, and when the missionary 
 heard it first he could not help confessing 
 that after all it was a sorry job trusting the 
 mandarins for protection. 
 
 The first time he visited the place with 
 A Hoa they were stoned and driven out. But 
 the missionaries came back, and at last were 
 allowed to preach. And then converts came 
 and a church was established. The robber 
 bands received no more assistance from the 
 people, and were soon scattered by the offi- 
 cers of the law. And Sa-kak-eng was in 
 peace because the missionary had come. 
 
162 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 But there was one place Mackay had so 
 far scarcely dared to enter. Even the rob- 
 ber-infested Sa-kak-eng would yield, but 
 Bang-kah defied all efforts. To the mission- 
 arj^ it was the Gibraltar of heathen Formosa, 
 and he longed to storm it. North, south, 
 east, and west of this great wicked city 
 churches had been planted, some only within 
 a few miles of its walls. But Bang-kah still 
 stood frowning and unyielding. It had al- 
 ways been very bitter against outsiders of all 
 kinds. No foreign merchant was allowed to 
 do business in Bang-kah, so no wonder the 
 foreign missionary was driven out. 
 
 Mackay had dared to enter the place, be- 
 ing of the sort that would dare anything. It 
 was soon after he had settled in Formosa 
 and A Hoa had accompanied him. The re- 
 sult had been a riot. The streets had imme- 
 diately filled with a yelling, cursing mob 
 that pelted the two missionaries with stones 
 and rotten eggs and filth, and drove them 
 from the city. 
 
 But ** Mackay never knew when he was 
 beaten," as a fellow worker of his once said, 
 
CITIES CAPTURED AND FORTS BUILT 163 
 
 and though he was taking desperate chances, 
 he went once more inside the walls of Bang- 
 kah. This time he barely escaped with his 
 life, and the city authorities forbade every 
 one, on pain of death, to lease or sell prop- 
 erty to him or in any way accommodate the 
 barbarian missionary. 
 
 But meanwhile Kai Bok-su was keeping 
 his eye on Bang-kah, and when the territory 
 around had been possessed, he went up to 
 Go-ko-khi and made the daring proposition 
 to A Hoa. Should they go up again and 
 storm the citadel of heathenism? And A 
 Hoa answered promptly and bravely, '^Let 
 us go." 
 
 So one day early in December, when the 
 winter rains had commenced to pour down, 
 these two marched across the plain and into 
 Bang-kah. By keeping quiet and avoiding 
 the main thoroughfare, they managed to 
 rent a house. It was a low, mean hovel in 
 a dirty, narrow street, but it was inside the 
 forbidden city, and that was something. The 
 two daring young men then procured a large 
 sheet of paper, printed on it in Chinese char- 
 
164 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 acters ^^ Jesus' Temple," and pasted it on 
 the door. This announced what they had 
 come for, and they awaited results. 
 
 Presently there came the heavy tramp, 
 tramp of feet on the stone pavement. 
 Mackay and A Hoa looked out. A party of 
 soldiers, armed with spears and swords, were 
 returning from camp. They stopped before 
 the hut and read the inscription. They 
 shouted loud threats and tramped away to 
 report the affair to headquarters. 
 
 In a short time, with a great noise and 
 tramping, once more soldiers were at the 
 door. Mackay walked out and faced them 
 quietly. The general had given orders that 
 the barbarian must leave this house imme- 
 diately, the soldier declared in a loud voice. 
 The place belonged to the military authori- 
 ties. 
 
 ^^Show me your proof," said Mackay 
 calmly. His bold behavior demanded re- 
 spectful treatment, so the soldier produced 
 the deed for the property. 
 
 **I respect your law," said Mackay after 
 he examined it, *^and my companion and I 
 
CITIES CAPTURED AND FORTS BUILT 165 
 
 will vacate. But I have paid rent for this 
 place, therefore I am entitled to remain for 
 the night. I will not go out until morning." 
 
 His firm words and fearless manner had 
 their effect both on the soldiers and the 
 noisy mob waiting for him outside, and the 
 men, muttering angrily, turned away. That 
 night Mackay and A Hoa lay on a dirty 
 grass mat on the mud floor. The place was 
 damp and filthy, but even had it been com- 
 fortable they would have had little sleep. 
 For, far into the night, angry soldiers pa- 
 raded the street. Often their voices rose to 
 a clamor and they would make a rush for 
 the frail door of the little hut. Many times 
 the two young fellows arose, believing their 
 last hour had come. But the long night 
 passed and they found that they were still 
 left untouched. 
 
 They rose early and started out. Already 
 a great mob filled the space in front of the 
 house. Even the low roofs of the surround- 
 ing houses were covered with people all out 
 early to see the barbarian and his despised 
 companion driven from Bang-kah, and per- 
 
166 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 haps have the added pleasure of witnessing 
 their death. 
 
 The two walked bravely down the street. 
 Curses were showered upon them from all 
 sides; broken tiles, stones, and filth were 
 thrown at them, but they moved on steadily. 
 The mob hampered them so that they were 
 hours walking the short distance to the 
 river. Here they entered a boat and went 
 down a few miles to a point where a chapel 
 stood, and where some of Mackay's students 
 awaited them. 
 
 But the man who *^did not know when he 
 was beaten" had not turned his back on the 
 enemy. He gathered the group of students 
 around him in the little room attached to the 
 chapel. Here they all knelt and the young 
 missionary laid their trouble before the 
 great Captain who had said, *^A11 power is 
 given unto me." *^Give us an entrance to 
 Bang-kah," was the burden of the mission- 
 ary's prayer. They arose from their knees, 
 and he turned to A Hoa with that quick 
 challenging movement his students had 
 learned to know so well. 
 
CITIES CAPTURED AND FORTS BUILT 16T 
 
 ^^Come," he said, ^^we are going back ta 
 Bang-kah." 
 
 And A Hoa, whose habit it was to walk 
 into all danger with a smile, answered with 
 all his heart : 
 
 ^'It is well, Kai Bok-su; we go back ta 
 Bang-kah." 
 
 And straight back to this Gibraltar the 
 little army of two marched. It was quite 
 dark by the time they entered. A Formosan 
 city is not the blaze of electricity to which 
 Westerners are accustomed, and only here 
 and there in the narrow streets shone a dim 
 light. The travelers stumbled along, scarcely 
 knowing whither they were going. As they 
 turned a dark corner and plunged into an- 
 other black street they met an old man hob- 
 bling with the aid of a staff over the uneven 
 stones of the pavement. Mackay spoke ta 
 him politely and asked if he could tell him 
 of any one who would rent a house. ''We 
 want to do mission work," he added, feeling^ 
 that he must not get anything under false 
 pretenses. 
 
 The old man nodded. ''Yes, I can rent you 
 
168 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 my place," he answered readily. ^^Come 
 with me." 
 
 Full of amazement and gratitude the two 
 adventurers groped their way after him, 
 :stumbling over stones and heaps of rubbish. 
 They could not help realizing, as they got 
 farther into the city, that should the old 
 man prove false and give an alarm the whole 
 murderous populace of that district would 
 be around them instantly like a swarm of 
 hornets. But whether he was leading them 
 into a trap or not their only course was to 
 follow. 
 
 At last he paused at a low door opening 
 into the back part of a house. The old man 
 lighted a lamp, a pith wick in a saucer of 
 peanut oil, and the visitors looked around. 
 "^The room was damp and dirty and infested 
 with the crawling creatures that fairly 
 ^warm in the Chinese houses of the lower 
 order. Eain dripped from the low ceiling 
 on the mud floor, and the meager furniture 
 was dirty and sticky. 
 
 But the two young men who had found it 
 -were delighted. They felt like the advance 
 
CITIES CAPTURED AND FORTS BUILT 169 
 
 guard of an army that has taken the enemy's 
 first outpost. They were established in 
 Bang-kah ! They set to work at once to draw 
 out a rental paper. A Hoa sat at the table 
 and wrote it out so that they might be 
 within the law which said that no foreigner 
 must hold property in Bang-kah. When the 
 paper was signed and the money paid, the 
 old man crept stealthily away. He had his 
 money, but he was too wary to let his fellow 
 citizens find how he had earned it. 
 
 As soon as morning came the little army 
 in the midst of the hostile camp hoisted its 
 banner. When the citizens of Bang-kah 
 awoke, they found on the door of the hut the 
 hated sign^ in large Chinese characters, 
 ** Jesus' Temple." 
 
 In less than an hour the street in front of 
 it was thronged with a shouting crowd. Be- 
 fore the day was past the news spread, and 
 the whole city was in an uproar. By the 
 next afternoon the excitement had reached 
 white heat, and a wild crowd of men came 
 roaring down the street. They hurled them- 
 selves at the little house where the mission- 
 
170 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 aries were waiting and literally tore it to 
 splinters. The screams of rage and triumph 
 were so horrible that they reminded Mackay 
 of the savage yells of the head-hunters. 
 
 When the mob leaped upon the roof and 
 tore it off, the two hunted men slipped out 
 through a side door, and across the street 
 into an inn. The crowd instantly attacked 
 it, smashing doors, ripping the tiles off the 
 roof, and uttering such bloodthirsty howls 
 that they resembled wild beasts far more 
 than human beings. The landlord ordered 
 the missionaries out to where the mob was 
 waiting to tear them limb from limb. 
 
 It was an awful moment. To go out was 
 instant death, to remain merely put off the 
 end a few moments. Mackay, knowing his 
 source of help, sent up a desperate prayer 
 to his Father in heaven. 
 
 Suddenly there was a strange lull in the 
 street outside. The yells ceased, the crash- 
 ing of tiles stopped. The door opened, and 
 there in his sedan-chair of state surrounded 
 by his bodyguard, appeared the Chinese 
 mandarin. And just behind him — ^blessed 
 
CITIES CAPTURED AND FORTS BUILT 171 
 
 sight to the eyes of Kai Bok-su — ^Mr. Scott, 
 the British consul of Tamsui ! 
 
 Without a word the two British-borrt 
 clasped hands. It was not an occasion for 
 words. There was immediately a council of 
 war. The mandarin urged the British con- 
 sul to send the missionary out of the city. 
 
 *^I have no authority to give such an 
 order," retorted Mr. Scott quickly. ^^On 
 the other hand you must protect him while 
 he is here. He is a British subject." 
 
 Mackay's heart swelled with pride. And 
 he thanked God that his Empire had such 
 a worthy representative. 
 
 Having again impressed upon the man- 
 darin that the missionary must be protected 
 or there would be trouble, Mr. Scott set off 
 for his home. Mackay accompanied him to 
 the city gate. Then he turned and walked 
 back through the muttering crowds straight 
 to the inn he had left. He stopped occa- 
 sionally to pull a tooth or give medicine for 
 malaria, for even in Bang-kah he had a few 
 friends. 
 
 The mandarin was now as much afraid of 
 
in BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 the missionary as if he had been the plague. 
 He knew he dared not allow him to be 
 touched, and he also knew he had very little 
 power over a mob. He was responsible, too, 
 to men in higher office, for the control of 
 the people, and would be severely punished 
 if there was a riot. He was indeed in a very 
 bad way when he heard that the troublesome 
 missionary had come back, and he followed 
 him to the inn to try to induce him to leave. 
 
 He found Mackay with A Hoa, quietly 
 seated in their room. First he commanded, 
 then he tried to bribe, and then he even de- 
 scended to beg the ^ ^foreign devil" to leave 
 the city. But Mackay was immovable. 
 
 **I cannot leave," he said, touched by the 
 man's distress. ^^I cannot quit this city until 
 I have preached the gospel here." He held 
 up his forceps and his Bible. ^^See! I use 
 these to relieve pain of the body, and this 
 gives relief from sin, — the disease of the 
 soul. I cannot go until I have given your 
 people the benefit of them." 
 
 The mandarin went away enraged and 
 l)affled. He could not persuade the man to 
 
CITIES CAPTURED AND FORTS BUILT 173' 
 
 go; he dared not drive liim out. He left a 
 squad of soldiers to guard the place, how- 
 ever, remembering the British consul's 
 warning. 
 
 In a few days the excitement subsided- 
 People became accustomed to seeing the bar- 
 barian teacher and his companion go about 
 the streets. Many were relieved of much 
 pain by him too, and a large number listened! 
 with some interest to the new doctrine he^ 
 taught concerning one God. 
 
 He had been there a week when some 
 prominent citizens came to him with a polite 
 offer. They would give him free a piece of 
 ground outside the city on which to build a 
 church. Kai Bok-su's flashing black eyes, 
 at once saw the bribe. They wanted to coax 
 him out when they could not drive him. He 
 refused politely but firmly. 
 
 **I own that property," he declared, point- 
 ing to the heap of ruins into which his house 
 had been turned, ^^and there I will build a 
 church.'' 
 
 They did everything in their power to pre- 
 vent him, but one day, many months af ter^ 
 
174 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 right on the site where they had literally 
 torn the roof from above him, arose a pretty 
 little stone church, and that was the begin- 
 ning of great things in Bang-kah. 
 
 And so Gibraltar was taken, — taken by an 
 anny of two, — a Canadian missionary and a 
 Chinese soldier of the King, for behind them 
 stood all the army of the Lord of hosts, and 
 He led them to victory ! 
 
OTHEE CONQUESTS 
 
CHAPTER IX 
 
 OTHER CONQUESTS. 
 
 AWAY over on the east of the island ran 
 a range of beautiful mountains. And 
 between these mountains and the sea 
 stretched a low rice plain. Here lived many 
 Pe-po-hoan, — '* Barbarians of the plain." 
 Mackay had never visited this place, for the 
 Kap-tsu-lan plain, as it was called, was very 
 hard to reach on account of the mountains ; 
 but this only made the dauntless missionary 
 all the more anxious to visit it. 
 
 So one day he suggested to his students, as 
 they studied in his house on the bluff, that 
 they make a journey to tell the people of 
 Kap-tsu-lan the story of Jesus. Of course, 
 the young fellows were delighted. To go 
 off with Kai Bok-su was merely transferring 
 their school from his house to the big beauti- 
 ful outdoors. For he always taught them by; 
 
 177 
 
178 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 the way, and besides they were all eager to 
 go with him and help spread the good news 
 that had made such a difference in their 
 lives. So when Kai Bok-su piled his books 
 upon a shelf and said, ^*Let us go to Kap- 
 tsu-lan," the young fellows ran and made 
 their preparations joyfully. A Hoa was in 
 Tamsui at the time, and Mackay suggested 
 that he come too, for a trip without A Hoa 
 was robbed of half its enjoyment. 
 
 Mackay had just recovered from one of 
 those violent attacks of malaria from which 
 he suffered so often now, and he was still 
 looking pale and weak. So Sun-a, a bright 
 young student-lad, came to the study door 
 with the suggestion, '^Let us take Lu-a for 
 Kai Bok-su to ride." 
 
 There was a laugh from the other students 
 and an indulgent smile from Kai Bok-su 
 himself. Lu-a was a small, rather stubborn- 
 looking donkey with meek eyes and a little 
 rat tail. He was a present to the missionary 
 from the English conmaissioner of customs 
 at Tamsui, when that gentleman was leaving 
 the island. Donkeys were commonly used 
 
OTHER CONQUESTS 179 
 
 on the mainland of China, and though an an- 
 imal was scarcely ever ridden in Formosa, 
 horses being almost unknown, the commis- 
 sioner did not see why his Canadian friend, 
 who was an introducer of so many new 
 things, should not introduce donkey-riding. 
 So he sent him Lu-a as a farewell present 
 and leaving this token of his good-will de- 
 parted for home. 
 
 Up to this time Lu-a had served only as a 
 pet and a joke among the students, and high 
 times they had with him in the grassy field 
 behind the missionary's house when lessons 
 were over. In great glee they brought him 
 round to the door now, ^^all saddled and 
 bridled" and ready for the trip. The mis- 
 sionary mounted, and Lu-a trotted meekly 
 along the road that wound down the bluff 
 toward Kelung. The students followed in 
 high spirits. The sight of their teacher 
 astride the donkey was such a novel one to 
 them, and Lu-a was such a joke at any time, 
 that they were filled with merriment. All 
 went well imtil they left the road and turned 
 into a path that led across the buffalo com- 
 
180 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 mon. At the end of it they came to a ravine 
 about fifteen feet deep. Over this stretched 
 a plank bridge not more than three feet wide. 
 Here Lu-a came to a sudden stop. He had 
 no mind to risk his small but precious body- 
 on that shaky structure. His rider bade 
 Mm *^go on," but the command only made 
 Lu-a put back his ears, plant his fore feet 
 well forward and stand stock still. In fact 
 he looked much more settled and immovable 
 than the bridge over which he was being 
 urged. The students gathered round him 
 and petted and coaxed. They called him 
 **Good Lu-a" and *^ Honorable Lu-a" and 
 every other flattering title calculated to 
 move his donkeyship, but Lu-a flattened his 
 ears back so he could not hear and would 
 not move. So Mackay dismounted and tried 
 the plan of pulling him forward by the 
 bridle while some of the boys pushed him 
 from behind. Lu-a resented this treatment, 
 especially that from the rear, and up went 
 his heels, scattering students in every direc- 
 tion ; and to discomfit the enemy in front he 
 opened his mouth and gave forth such loud 
 
OTHER CONQUESTS 181 
 
 resonant brays that the ravine fairly rang 
 with his music. 
 
 A balking donkey is rather amusing to 
 boys of any country, but to these Formosan 
 lads who had had no experience with one the 
 sound of Lu-a's harsh voice and the sight of 
 his flying heels brought convulsions of mer- 
 riment. ' ' He 's pounding rice ! He 's pound- 
 ing rice !" shouted the wag of the party, and 
 his companions flung themselves upon the 
 grass and rolled about laughing themselves 
 sick. 
 
 With his followers rendered helpless and 
 his steed continuing stubborn, Mackay saw 
 the struggle was useless. He could not com- 
 pete alone with Lu-a's firmness, so he gave 
 orders that the obstinate little obstructer 
 of their journey be trotted back to his 
 pasture. 
 
 **And to think that any one of us might 
 have carried the little rascal over!" he cried 
 as he watched the donkey meekly depart. 
 His students looked at the little beast with 
 something like respect. Lu-a had beaten the 
 dauntless Kai Bok-su who had never before 
 
182 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 been beaten by anything. He was indeed a 
 marvelous donkey! 
 
 So the journey to the Kap-tsu-lan plain 
 was made on foot. It was a very wearisome 
 one and often dangerous. The mountain 
 paths were steep and difficult and the trav- 
 elers knew that often the head-hunters 
 lurked near. But the way was wonderfully 
 beautiful nevertheless. Standing on a moun- 
 tain height one morning and looking away 
 down over wooded hills and valleys and the 
 lake-like terraces of the rice-fields, Mackay 
 repeated to his students a line of the old 
 hymn: 
 
 Every prospect pleases and only man is vile. 
 
 Around them the stately tree-fern lifted its 
 lovely fronds and the orchids dotted the 
 green earth like a flock of gorgeous butter- 
 flies just settled. Tropical birds of brilliant 
 plumage flashed among the trees. Beside 
 them a great tree raised itself, fairly covered 
 with morning-glories, and over at their right 
 a mountainside gleamed like snow in the 
 
OTHER CONQUESTS 183 
 
 sunliglit, clothed from top to bottom with 
 white lilies. 
 
 But the way had its dangers as well as its 
 beauties. They were passing the mouth of a 
 ravine when they were stopped by yells and 
 screams of terror coming from farther up 
 the mountainside. In a few minutes a Chi- 
 naman darted out of the woods toward them. 
 His face was distorted with terror and he 
 could scarcely get breath to tell his horrible 
 story. He and his four companions had 
 been chipping the camphor trees up in the 
 woods; suddenly the armed savages had 
 leaped out upon them and he alone of the 
 five had escaped. 
 
 At last they left the dangerous mountain 
 and came down into the Kap-tsu-lan plain. 
 On every side was rice-field after rice-field, 
 with the water pouring from one terrace to 
 another. The plain was low and damp and 
 the paths and roads lay deep in mud. They 
 had a long toilsome walk between the rice- 
 fields until they came to the first village of 
 these barbarians of the plain. It was very- 
 much like a Chinese village, — dirty, noisy^ 
 
184 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 and swarming with wild-looking children 
 and wolfish dogs. 
 
 The visitors were received with the utmost 
 disdain. The Chinese students were of 
 course well known, for these aborigines had 
 long ago adopted their customs and lan- 
 guage. But the Chinese visitors were in 
 company with the foreigners, and all for- 
 eigners were outcaste in this eastern plain. 
 The men shouted the familiar ^^foreign 
 devil" and walked contemptuously away. 
 The dirty women and children fled into their 
 grass huts and set the dogs upon the stran- 
 gers. They tried by all sorts of kindnesses 
 to gain a hearing, but all to no effect. So 
 they gave it up, and plodded through the 
 mud and water a mile farther on to the next 
 village. But village number two received 
 them in exactly the same way. Only rough 
 words and the barks of cruel dogs met them. 
 The next village was no better, the fourth a 
 little worse. And so on they went up and 
 down the Kap-tsu-lan plain, sleeping at 
 night in some poor empty hut or in the 
 shadow of a rice strawstack, eating their 
 
OTHER CONQUESTS 185 
 
 meals of cold rice and buffalo-meat by the 
 wayside, and being driven from village to 
 village, and receiving never a word of wel- 
 come. 
 
 And all through those wearisome days the 
 young men looked at their leader in vain for 
 any smallest sign of discouragement or in- 
 clination to retreat. There was no slightest 
 look of dismay on the face of Kai Bok-su, 
 for how was it possible for a man who did 
 not know when he was beaten to feel dis- 
 couraged? So still undaunted in the face 
 of defeat, he led them here and there over 
 the plain, hoping that some one would surely 
 relent and give them a hearing. 
 
 One night, footsore and worn out, they 
 slept on the damp mud floor of a miserable 
 hut where the rain dripped in upon their 
 faces. In the morning prospects looked 
 rather discouraging to the younger members 
 of the party. They were wet and cold and 
 weary, and there seemed no use in going 
 again and again to a village only to be 
 turned away. But Kai Bok-su's mouth was 
 as firm as ever, and his dark eyes flashed 
 
186 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 resolutely, as once more lie gave the order 
 fo march. It was a lovely morning, the sun 
 was rising gloriously out of the sea and the 
 heavy mists were melting from above the 
 little rice-fields. Here and there fairy lakes 
 gleamed out from the rosy haze that rolled 
 back toward the mountains. They walked 
 along the shore in the pink dawn-light and 
 marched up toward a fishing village. They 
 had visited it before and had been driven 
 away, but Kai Bok-su was determined to 
 fry again. They were surprised as they 
 came nearer to see three men come out to 
 meet them with a friendly expression on 
 their faces. 
 
 The foremost was an old man who had 
 been nicknamed ^'Black-face,'' because of 
 his dark skin. The second was a middle- 
 aged man, and the third was a young fellow 
 about the age of the students. They saluted 
 the travelers pleasantly, and the old man ad- 
 dressed the missionary. 
 
 **You have been going through and 
 through our plain and no one has received 
 you," he said politely. ^*Come to our vil- 
 
OTHER CONQUESTS 187 
 
 lage, and we will now be ready to listen to 
 you.^^ 
 
 The door of Kap-tsu-lan had opened at 
 last! The missionary's eyes gleamed with 
 joy and gratitude as he accepted the invita- 
 tion. The delegation led the visitors straight 
 to the house of the headman. For the Pe- 
 po-hoan governed their communities in the 
 Chinese style and had a headman for each 
 village. The missionary party eat down in 
 front of the hut on some large flat stones 
 and talked over the matter with the chief 
 and other important men. And while they 
 talked ^* Black-face" slipped away. He re- 
 turned in a few moments with a breakfast 
 of rice and fish for the visitors. 
 
 The result of the conference was that the 
 villagers decided to give the barbarian a 
 chance. All he wanted it seemed was to tell 
 of this new Jehovah-religion which he be- 
 lieved, and surely there could be no great 
 harm in listening to him talk. 
 
 In the evening the headman with the help 
 of some friends set to work to construct a 
 meeting-house. A tent was erected, made 
 from boat sails. Several flat stones laid at 
 
188 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 one end and a planl^ placed upon them made 
 a pulpit. And that was the first church on 
 the Kap-tsu-lan plain ! There was a *^ church 
 bell" too, to call the people to worship. In 
 the village were some huge marine shells 
 with the ends broken off. In the old days 
 these were used by the chiefs as trumpets by 
 which they called their men together when- 
 ever they were starting out on the war-path. 
 But now the trumpet-shell was used to call 
 the people to follow the King. Just at dark 
 a man took one, and walking up and down 
 the straggling village street blew loudly — 
 the first ^* church bell" in east Formosa. 
 
 The loud roar brought the villagers flock- 
 ing down to the tent-church by the shore. 
 For the most part they brought their pews 
 with them. They came hurrying out of their 
 huts carrying benches, and arranging them 
 in rows they seated themselves to listen. 
 
 Mackay and the students sang and the 
 people listened eagerly. The Pe-po-hoan by 
 nature were more musical than the Chinese, 
 and the singing delighted them. Then the 
 missionarv arose and addressed them. He 
 
OTHER CONQUESTS 189 
 
 told clearly and simply why he had come and 
 preached to them of the true God. After-^ 
 ward the congregation was allowed to ask 
 questions, and they learned much of this God 
 and of his love in his Son Jesus Christ. 
 
 The wonder of the great news shone in 
 the eyes upturned to the preacher. In the 
 gloom of the half -lighted tent their dark 
 faces took on a new expression of half -won- 
 dering hope. Could it be possible that this 
 was true ? Their poor, benighted minds had 
 always been held in terror of their gods and 
 of the evil spirits that forever haunted their 
 footsteps. Could it be possible that God 
 was a great Father who loved his children ? 
 They asked so many eager questions, and the 
 story of Jesus Christ had to be told over and 
 over so many times, that before this first 
 church service ended a gray gleam of dawn 
 was spreading out over the Pacific. 
 
 It was only the next day that these newly- 
 awakened people decided that they must 
 have a church building. And they went to 
 work to get one in a way that might have 
 shamed a congregation of people in a Chris- 
 
190 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 tian land. This new wonderful hope that 
 had been raised in their hearts by the knowl- 
 edge that God loved them set them to work 
 with glad energy. Kai Bok-su and his men 
 still preached and prayed and sang and 
 taught in the crazy old wind-flapped tent by 
 the seashore, and the people listened 
 eagerly, and then, when services were over, 
 every one, — preacher, assistants, and con- 
 gregation, — set bravely to work to build 
 a church. Brave they certainly had to be, 
 for at the very beginning they had to risk 
 their lives for their chapel. A party sailed 
 down the coast and entered savage territory 
 for the poles to construct the building. They 
 were attacked and one or two were badly 
 wounded, though they managed to escape. 
 But they were quite ready to go back and 
 fight again had it been necessary. Then they 
 made the bricks for the walls. Rice chaff 
 mixed with clay were the materials, and the 
 Kap-tsu-lan plain had an abundance of both. 
 The roof was made of grass, the floor of 
 hard dried earth, and a platform of the same 
 at one end served as a pulpit. 
 
OTHER CONQUESTS 191 
 
 When the little chapel was finished, every 
 evening the big shell rang out its summons 
 through the village; and out from every 
 house came the people and swarmed into the 
 chapel to hear Kai Bok-su explain more o£ 
 the wonders of God and his Son Jesus 
 Christ. 
 
 Mackay's home during this period was a 
 musty little room in a damp mud-walled 
 hut; and here every day he received dona- 
 tions of idols, ancestral tablets, and all sorts 
 of things belonging to idol- worship. He was 
 requested to burn them, and* often in the 
 mornings he dried his damp clothes and 
 moldy boots at a fire made from heathen 
 idols. 
 
 For eight weeks the missionary party re- 
 mained in this place, preaching, teaching, 
 and working among the people. It was a 
 mystery to the students how their teacher 
 found time for the great amount of Bible 
 study and prayer which he managed to get. 
 He surely worked as never man worked be- 
 fore. Late at night, long after every one 
 else was in bed, he would be bending over 
 
192 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 his Bible, beside Ms peanut-oil lamp, and 
 early in the morning before the stars had 
 disappeared he was up and at work again. 
 Four hours' sleep was all his restless, active 
 mind could endure, and with that he could 
 do work that would have killed any ordinary 
 man. 
 
 One evening some new faces looked up at 
 him from his congregation in the little brick 
 church. When the last hymn was sung the 
 missionary stepped down from his pulpit 
 and spoke to the strangers. They explained 
 that they were from the next village. They 
 had heard rumors of this new doctrine, and 
 had been sent to find out more ahout it. 
 They had been charmed with the singing, for 
 that evening over two hundred voices had 
 joined in a ringing praise to the new Je- 
 hovah-God. They wanted to hear more, they 
 said, and they wanted to know what it was 
 all about. Would Kai Bok-su and his stu- 
 dents deign to visit their village too ? 
 
 Would he? Why that was just what he 
 was longing to do. He had been driven out 
 of that village by dogs only a few weeks be- 
 
OTHER CONQUESTS 193 
 
 fore, but a little thing like that did not mat- 
 ter to a man like Mackay. This village lay 
 but a short distance away, being connected 
 with their own by a path winding here and 
 there between the rice-fields. Early the next 
 evening Mackay formed a procession. He 
 placed himself at its head, with A Hoa at 
 his side. The students came next, and then 
 the converts in a double row. And thus they 
 marched slowly along the pathway singing 
 as they went. It was a stirring sight. On 
 either side the waving fields of rice, behind 
 them the gleam of the blue ocean, before 
 them the great towering mountains clothed 
 in green. Above them shone the clear daz- 
 zling sky of a tropical evening. And on 
 wound the long procession of Christians in 
 a heathen land, and from them arose the 
 glorious words : 
 
 thou, my soul, bless God the Lord, 
 And all that in me is 
 
 Be stirred up his holy name 
 To magnify and bless. 
 
 And the heathen in the rice-fields stopped to 
 gaze at the strange sight, and the mountains 
 
194 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 gave back the echo of that Name which is 
 above every name. 
 
 And so, marching to their song, the pro- 
 cession came to the village. Everybody in 
 the place had come out to meet them at the 
 first sound of the singing. And now they 
 stood staring, the men in a group by them- 
 selves, the women and children in the back- 
 ground, the dogs snarling on the outskirts of 
 the crowd. 
 
 The congregation was there ready, and 
 without waiting to find a place of meeting, 
 right out under the clear evening skies, the 
 young missionary told once more the great 
 story of God and his love as shown through 
 Jesus Christ. The message took the village 
 by storm. It was like water to thirsty souls. 
 The next day five hundred of them brought 
 their idols to the missionary to be burned. 
 
 And now Mackay went up and down the 
 Kap-tsu-lan plain from village to village as 
 he had done before, but this time it was a 
 triumphal march. And everywhere he went 
 throngs threw away their idols and declared 
 themselves followers of the true God. 
 
OTHER CONQUESTS 195 
 
 He was overcome with joy. It was so 
 glorious he wished he could stay there the 
 rest of his life and lead these willing people 
 to a higher life. But Tamsui was waiting; 
 Sin-tiam, Bang-kah, Kelung, Go-ko-khi, — 
 they must all be visited ; and finally he tore 
 himself away, leaving some of his students 
 to care for these people of Kap-tsu-lan. 
 
 But he came back many times, until at 
 last nineteen chapels dotted the plain, and 
 in them nineteen native preachers told the 
 story of Jesus and his love. Sometimes, in 
 later years, when Mackay was with them, 
 tears would roll down the people's faces as 
 they recalled how badly they had used him 
 on his first visit. 
 
 It was while on his third visit here that he 
 had a narrow escape from the head-hunters. 
 He was staying at a village called ^^ South 
 Wind Harbor," which was near the border 
 of savage territory. Mackay often walked 
 on the shore In the evening just before the 
 meeting, always with a book in his hand. 
 One night he was strolling along in deep 
 meditation when he noticed some extremely 
 
196 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 large turtle tracks in the sand. He followed 
 them, for he liked to watch the big clumsy 
 creatures. These green turtles were from 
 four to five feet in length. They would come 
 waddling up from the sea, scratch a hole in 
 the sand with their flippers, lay their eggs, 
 cover them carefully, and with head erect 
 and neck out-thrust waddle back. Mackay 
 was intensely interested in all the animal 
 life of the island and made a study of it 
 whenever he had a chance. He knew the 
 savages killed and ate these turtles, but he 
 supposed he was as yet too near the village 
 to be molested by them. So he followed the 
 tracks and was nearing the edge of the for- 
 est, when he heard a shout behind him. As 
 he turned, one of his village friends came 
 running out of his hut waving to him fran- 
 tically to come back. Thinking some one 
 must be ill, Mackay hurried toward the man, 
 to find that it was he himself who was in 
 danger. The man explained breathlessly 
 that it was the habit of the wily savages to 
 make marks in the sand resembling turtle 
 tracks to lure people into the forest. If Kai 
 
OTHER CONQUESTS 197 
 
 Bok-su had entered the woods, his head 
 would certainly have been lost. 
 
 It was always hard to say farewell to Kap- 
 tsu-lan, the people were so warm-hearted, so 
 kind, and so anxious for him to stay. One 
 morning just before leaving after his third 
 visit, Mackay had an experience that brought 
 him the greatest joy. 
 
 He had stayed all night at the little fish- 
 ing village where the first chapel had been 
 built. As usual he was up with the dawn, 
 and after his breakfast of cold boiled rice 
 and pork he walked down to the shore for 
 a farewell look at the village. As he passed 
 along the little crooked street he could see 
 old women sitting on the mud floors of their 
 huts, by the open door, weaving. They were 
 all poor, wrinkled, toothless old folk with 
 faces seamed by years of hard heathen ex- 
 perience. But in their eyes shone a new 
 light, the reflection of the glory that they had 
 seen when the missionary showed them Jesus 
 their Savior. And as they threw their 
 thread their quavering voices crooned the 
 sweet words : 
 
198 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 There is a happy land 
 Far, far away. 
 
 And their old weary faces were lighted up 
 with a hope and happiness that had never 
 been there in youth. 
 
 Kai Bok-su smiled as he passed their 
 doors and his eyes were misty with tender 
 tears. 
 
 Just before him, playing on the sand with 
 ^^ jacks'' or tops, just as he had played not 
 so very long ago away back in Canada, were 
 the village boys. And as they played they 
 too were singing, their little piping voices, 
 sweet as birds, thrilling the morning air. 
 And the words they sang were : 
 
 Jesus loves me, this I know, 
 For the Bible tells me so. 
 
 They nodded and smiled to Kai Bok-su as 
 he passed. He went down to the shore where 
 the wide Pacific flung long rollers away up 
 the hard-packed sand. The fishermen were 
 going out to sea in the rosy morning light, 
 and as they stood up in their fishing-smacks, 
 
OTHER CONQUESTS 199 
 
 and swept their long oars through the surf, 
 they kept time to the motion with singing. 
 And their strong, brave voices rang out 
 above the roar of the breakers : 
 
 I'm not ashamed to own my Lord, 
 Or to defend his cause. 
 
 And standing there on the sunlit shore the 
 young missionary raised his face to the 
 gleaming blue heavens with an emotion of 
 unutterable joy and thanksgiving. And in 
 that moment he knew what was that glory 
 for which he had so vaguely longed in child- 
 ish years. It was the glory of work accom- 
 plished for his Master's sake, and he was 
 realizing it to the full. 
 
EEENFORCEMENTS 
 
CHAPTER X 
 
 KEENFORCEMENTS 
 
 OOME of Mackay's happiest days were 
 ^ spent with his students. He was such 
 a wonder of a man for work himself that 
 he inspired every one else to do his best, so 
 the young men made rapid strides with their 
 lessons. No matter how busy he was, and 
 he was surely one of the busiest men that 
 ever lived, he somehow found time for them» 
 Sometimes in his house, sometimes on the 
 road, by the seashore, under a banyan tree, 
 here and there and everywhere, the mission- 
 ary and his pupils held their classes. If he 
 went on a journey, they accompanied him 
 and studied by the way. And it was a fa- 
 miliar sight on north Formosan roads or 
 field paths to see Mackay, always with his 
 book in one hand and his big ebony stick 
 under his arm, walking along surrounded by 
 a group of young men. 
 
 203 
 
PILGRIM CONGREGATIONAL CHUWGM, 
 ST. LOUIS. MO. 
 
 g04 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 Sometimes there were as many as twenty 
 in the student-band, but somewhere in the 
 country a new church would open, and the 
 brightest of the class would be called away 
 to be its minister. But just as often a young 
 Christian would come to the missionary and 
 ask if he too might not be trained to preach 
 the gospel of Jesus Christ. 
 
 Whether at home or abroad, pupils and 
 teacher had to resort to all sorts of means to 
 get away for an uninterrupted hour to- 
 gether. For Kai Bok-su was always in de- 
 mand to visit the sick or sad or troubled. 
 
 There was a little kitchen separate from 
 the house on the bluff, and over this Mackay 
 with his students built a second story. And 
 here they would often slip away for a little 
 quiet time together. One night, about eleven 
 o'clock, Mackay was here alone poring over 
 his books. The young men had gone home 
 to bed except two or three who were in the 
 kitchen below. Some papers had been 
 dropped over a pipe-hole in the floor of the 
 room where Mackay was studying, and for 
 some time he had been disturbed by a rus- 
 
it J 1 '^ 
 
REENFORCEMENTS 205 
 
 tling among them. At last without looking 
 up, he called to his boys below: *^I think 
 there are rats up here among my papers!'^ 
 
 Koa Kau, one of the younger of the stu- 
 dents, ran lightly up the stairs to give battle 
 to the intruders. What was his horror when 
 he saw fully three feet of a monster serpent 
 sticking up through the pipe-hole and wav- 
 ing its horrible head in the air just a little 
 distance from Kai Bok-su's chair. 
 
 The boy gave a shout, darted down the 
 stair, and with a sharp stick, pinned the 
 body of the snake to the wall below. The 
 creature became terribly violent, but Koa 
 Kau held on valiantly and Mackay seized an 
 old Chinese spear that happened to be in the 
 room above and pierced the serpent through 
 the head. They pulled its dead body down 
 into the kitchen below and spread it out. 
 It measured nine feet. The students would 
 not rest until it was buried, and the remem- 
 brance of the horrible creature's visit for 
 some time spoiled the charm of the little 
 upper room. 
 
 The rocks at Kelung harbor were another 
 
^06 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 favorite spot for this little traveling uni- 
 versity to hold its classes. Sometimes they 
 would take their dinner and row out in a lit- 
 tle sampan to the rocks outside the harbor 
 and there, undisturbed, they would study the 
 whole day long. 
 
 They always began the day's work with a 
 prayer and a hymn of praise, and no matter 
 what subjects they might study, most of the 
 time was spent on the greatest of books. 
 After a hard morning's work each one would 
 gather sticks, make a fire, and they would 
 have their dinner of vegetables, rice, and 
 pork or buffalo-meat. Then there were 
 oysters, taken fresh off the rocks, to add to 
 their bill of fare. 
 
 At five in the afternoon, when the strain 
 of study was beginning to tell, they would 
 vary the program. One or two of the boys 
 would take a plunge into the sea and bring 
 up a subject for study, — a shell, some living 
 coral, sea-weed, sea-urchins, or some such 
 treasure. They would examine it, and Kai 
 Bok-su, always delighted when on a scien- 
 tific subject, would give them a lesson in 
 
REENFORCEMENTS 207 
 
 natural history. And he saw with joy how 
 the wonders of the sea and land opened these 
 young men's minds to understand what a 
 great and wonderful God was theirs, who 
 had made *Hhe heaven and the earth and the 
 sea, and all that in them is." 
 
 When they visited a chapel in the country, 
 they had a daily program which they tried 
 hard to follow. They studied until four 
 o'clock every afternoon and all were trained 
 in speaking and preaching. After four they 
 made visits together to Christians or 
 heathen, speaking always a word for their 
 Master. Every evening a public service was 
 held at which Mackay preached. These ser- 
 mons were an important part of the young 
 men's training, for he always treated the 
 gospel in a new way. A Hoa, who was 
 Mackay 's companion for the greater part of 
 sixteen years, stated that he had never heard 
 Kai Bok-su preach the same sermon twice. 
 
 On the whole the students liked their col- 
 lege best when it was moving. For on the 
 road, while their principal gave much time 
 to the Bible and how to present the gospel, 
 
208 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 he would enliven their walks by conversing 
 about everything by the way and making it 
 full of interest. The structure of a wayside 
 flower, the geological formation of an over- 
 hanging rock, the composition of the soil of 
 the tea plantations, the stars that shone in 
 the sky when night came down upon them ; 
 — all these made the traveling college a de- 
 light. 
 
 Although his days were crammed with 
 work, Mackay found time to make friends 
 among the European population of the 
 island. They all liked and admired him, and 
 many of them tried to help the man who 
 was giving his life and strength so com- 
 pletely to others. They were familiar with 
 his quick, alert figure passing through the 
 streets of Tamsui, with his inevitable book 
 and his big ebony cane. And they would 
 smile and say, ^* There goes Mackay ; he's the 
 busiest man in China." ^ 
 
 The British consul in the old Dutch fort 
 and the English commissioner of customs 
 proved true and loyal friends. The repre- 
 
 ^ See page 290. Formosa becomes Japanese territory. 
 
REENFORCEMENTS 209 
 
 sentatives of foreign business firms, too, 
 were always ready to lend him a helping 
 hand where possible. His most useful 
 friends were the foreign medical men. They 
 helped him very much. They not only did 
 all they could for his own recovery when 
 malaria attacked him, but they helped also 
 to cure his patients. Traveling scientists 
 always gave him a visit to get his help and 
 advice. He had friends that were ship- 
 captains, officers, engineers, merchants, and 
 British consuls. Everybody knew the won- 
 derful Kai Bok-su. ** Whirlwind Mackay," 
 some of them called him, and they knew and 
 admired him with the true admiration that 
 only a brave man can inspire. 
 
 The friends to whom he turned for help of 
 the best kind were the English Presbyteri- 
 ans in south Formosa. They, more than any 
 others, knew his trials and difficulties. They 
 alone could enter with true sympathy into 
 all his triumphs. At one time Dr. Campbell, 
 one of the south Pormosan missionaries, 
 paid him a visit. He proved a delightful 
 companion, and together the two made a 
 
210 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 tour of the mission stations. Dr. Campbell 
 preached wherever they went and was a 
 great inspiration to the people, as well as to 
 the students and to the missionary himself. 
 
 One evening, when they were in Kelung, 
 Mackay, with his insatiable desire to use 
 every moment, suggested that they spend 
 ten days without speaking English, so that 
 they might improve their Chinese. Dr. 
 Campbell agreed, and they started their 
 ** Chinese only." Next morning from the 
 first early call of **Liong tsong khi lai," 
 **A11, all, up come," not one word of their 
 native tongue did they speak. They had a 
 long tramp that morning and there was 
 much to talk about and the conversation was 
 all in Chinese, according to the bargain. Dr. 
 Campbell was ahead, and after an hour's 
 talk he suddenly turned upon his compan- 
 ion: *^ Mackay!" he exclaimed, 'Hhis jab- 
 bering in Chinese is ridiculous, and two 
 Scotchmen should have more sense; let us 
 return to our mother tongue." Which ad- 
 vice Mackay gladly followed. 
 
 His next visitor was the Eev. Mr. Ritchie 
 
REENFORCEMENTS 211 
 
 from south Formosa, one of the friends who 
 had first introduced him to his work. Every- 
 day of his visit was a joy. With nine of 
 Mackay's students, the two missionaries set 
 out on a trip through the north Formosa 
 mission that lasted many weeks. 
 
 But the more pleasant and helpful such 
 companionship was the more alone Mackay 
 felt when it was over. His task was becom- 
 ing too much for one man. He was wanted 
 on the northern coast, at the southern bound- 
 ary of his mission field, and away on the 
 Kap-tsu-lan plain all at once. He was 
 crowded day and night with work. What 
 with preaching, dentistry, attending the sick, 
 training his students, and encouraging the 
 new churches, he had enough on his hands 
 for a dozen missionaries. 
 
 But now at last the Church at home, in 
 far-away Canada, bestirred herself to help 
 him. They had been hearing something of 
 the wonderful mission in Formosa, but they 
 had heard only hints of it, for Mackay would 
 not confess how he was toiling day and night 
 and how the work had grown until he was 
 
212 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 not able to overtake it alone. But the Church 
 understood something of his need, and they 
 now sent him the best present they could 
 possibly give, — an assistant. Just three 
 years after Mackay had landed in Formosa, 
 the Eev. J. B. Fraser, M. D., and his wife 
 and little ones arrived. He was a young 
 man, too, vigorous and ready for work. Be- 
 sides being an ordained minister, he was a 
 physician as well, just exactly what the 
 north Formosan mission needed. 
 
 Along with the missionary, the Church 
 had sent funds for a house for him and also 
 one for Mackay. So the poor old Chinese 
 house on the bluff was replaced by a modern, 
 comfortable dwelling, and by its side an- 
 other was built for the new missionary and 
 his family. One room of Mackay 's house 
 was used as a study for his students. 
 
 After the houses were built and the new 
 doctor was able to use the language, he be- 
 gan to fill a long-felt want. Mackay had al- 
 ways done a little medical work, and the 
 foreign doctor of Tamsui had been most 
 kind in giving his aid, but a doctor of his 
 
The Rev. J. B. Fraser, M.D. 
 
 "BEilDES BEING AN ORDAINED MINISTER, HE WAS A PHYSICIAN 
 AS well" ' ^ ■, , , 
 
REENFORCEMENTS 213 
 
 own, a missionary doctor, was exactly what 
 Kai Bok-su wanted. Soon the sick began 
 to hear of the wonders the missionary doc- 
 tor could perform, and they flocked to him 
 to be cured. 
 
 It must not be supposed that there were 
 not already doctors in north Formosa. 
 There were many in Tamsui alone, and very 
 indignant they were at this new barbarian's 
 success. But the native doctors were about 
 the worst trouble that the people had to bear. 
 Their medical knowledge, like their religion, 
 was a mixture of ignorance and superstition, 
 and some of their practises would have been 
 inexcusable except for the fact that they 
 themselves knew no better. There were two 
 classes of medical men ; those who treated in- 
 ternal diseases and those who professed to 
 cure external maladies. It was hard to judge 
 which class did the more mischief , but per- 
 haps the * inside doctors" killed more of 
 their patients. Dog's flesh was prescribed 
 as a cure for dyspepsia, a chip taken from a 
 coffin and boiled and the water drunk was a 
 remedy for catarrh, and an apology made to 
 
214 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 the moon was a si)ecific for wind-roughened 
 skin. For the dreaded malaria, the scourge 
 of Formosa, the young Canadian doctor 
 found many and amazing remedies pre- 
 scribed, some worse than the disease itself. 
 The native doctors believed malaria to be 
 caused by two devils in a patient, one caus- 
 ing the chills, the other the fever. One of 
 the commonest remedies, and one that was 
 quite as sensible as any of the rest, was to 
 tie seven hairs plucked from a black dog 
 around the sick one's wrist. 
 
 But when the barbarian doctor opened his 
 dispensary in Tamsui, a new era dawned for 
 the poor sick folk of north Formosa. The 
 work went on wonderfully well and Mackay 
 found so much more time to travel in the 
 country that the gospel spread rapidly. 
 
 But just when prospects were looking so 
 fair and every one was happy and hopeful, 
 a sad event darkened the bright outlook of 
 the two missionaries. The young doctor had 
 cured scores of cases, and had brought health 
 and happiness to many homes, but he was 
 powerless to keep death from his own door. 
 
REENFORCEMENTS 215 
 
 And one day, a sad day for the mission of 
 north Formosa, the mother was called from 
 husband and little ones to her home and her 
 reward in heaven. 
 
 So the home on the bluff, the beautiful 
 Christian home, which was a pattern for all 
 the Chinese, was broken up. The young doc- 
 tor was compelled to leave his patients, and 
 taking his motherless children he returned 
 with them to Canada. 
 
 The church at home sent out another 
 helper. The Rev. Kenneth Junor arrived 
 one year later, and once more the work re- 
 ceived a fresh impetus. And then, just 
 about two years after Mr. Junor 's arrival, 
 Kai Bok-su found an assistant of his own 
 right in Formosa, and one who was destined 
 to become a wonderful help to him. And so 
 one bright day, there was a wedding in the 
 chapel of the old Dutch fort, where the Brit- 
 ish consul married George Leslie Mackay to 
 a Formosan lady. Tui Chhang Mai, her 
 name had been. She was of a beautiful 
 Christian character and for a long time she 
 had been a great help in the church. But as. 
 
^16 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 Mrs. Mackay she proved a marvelous assist- 
 ance to her husband. 
 
 It had long been a great grief to the mis- 
 sionary that, while the men would come in 
 crowds to his meetings, the poor women had 
 to be left at home. Sometimes in a congre- 
 gation of two hundred there would be only 
 two or three women. Chinese custom made 
 it impossible for a man missionary to preach 
 to the women. Only a few of the older ones 
 came out. So the mothers of the little chil- 
 dren did not hear about Jesus and so could 
 not teach their little ones about him. 
 
 But now everything was changed for 
 them. They had a lady-missionary, and one 
 of their own people too. The Mackays went 
 on a wedding-trip through the country. Kai 
 Bok-su walked, as usual, and his wife rode 
 in a sedan-chair. The wedding-trip was 
 really a missionary tour ; for they visited all 
 the chapels, and the women came to the 
 meetings in crowds, because they wanted to 
 hear and see the lady who had married Kai 
 Bok-su. Often, after the regular meetings 
 when the men had gone away, the women 
 
Mrs. George L. Mackay 
 
 BUT AS MRS. MACKAY SHE PROVED OF MARVELOUS ASSISTANCE 
 TO HER husband" 
 
REENFORCEMENTS 217 
 
 would crowd in and gather round Mrs. Mac- 
 kay and she would tell them the story of 
 Jesus and his love. 
 
 Tt was a wonderful wedding-journey and 
 it brought a double blessing wherever the 
 two went. Their experiences were not all 
 pleasant. One day they traveled over a sand 
 plain so hot that Mackay's feet were blis- 
 tered. Another time they were drenched 
 with rain. One afternoon there came up a 
 terrific wind storm. It blew Mrs. Mackay's 
 sedan-chair over and sent her and the car- 
 riers flying into the mud by the roadside. 
 At another place they all barely escaped 
 drowning when crossing a stream. But the 
 brave young pair went through it all daunt- 
 lessly. The wife had caught something of 
 her husband's great spirit of sacrifice, and 
 he was always the man on fire, utterly for- 
 getful of self. 
 
 For two years they worked happily to- 
 gether and at last a great day came to Kai- 
 Bok-su. He had been nearly eight years in 
 Formosa. It was time he came home, the 
 Church in Canada said, for a little rest and 
 
218 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 to tell the people at home something of his 
 great work. 
 
 And so he and his Formosan wife said 
 good-by, amid tears and regrets on all sides, 
 and leaving Mr. Junor in charge with A Hoa 
 to help, they set sail for Canada. It was 
 just a little over seven years since he had 
 settled in that little hut by the river, de- 
 spised and hated by every one about him; 
 and now he left behind him twenty chapels, 
 each with a native preacher over it, and hun- 
 dreds of warm friends scattered over all 
 north Formosa. 
 
 He was not quite the same Mackay who 
 had stood on the deck of the America seven 
 years before. His eyes were as bright and 
 daring as ever and his alert figure as full of 
 energy, but his face showed that his life had 
 been a hard one. And no wonder, for he had 
 endured every kind of hardship and priva- 
 tion in those seven years. He had been 
 mobbed times without number. He had 
 faced death often, and day and night since 
 his first year on the island his footsteps had 
 been dogged by the torturing malaria. 
 
REENFORCEMENTS 219 
 
 But he was still the great, brave Mackay 
 and his home-coming was like the return of 
 a hero from battle. He went through Can- 
 ada preaching in the churches, and his words 
 were like a call to arms. He swept over the 
 country like one of his own Pormosan winds, 
 carrying all before him. Wherever he 
 preached hearts were touched by his thrill- 
 ing tales, and purses opened to help in his 
 work. Queen's University made him a Doc- 
 tor of Divinity ; Mrs. Mackay, a lady of De- 
 troit, gave him money enough to build a hos- 
 pital; and his home county, Oxford, pre- 
 sented him with $6,215 with which to build a 
 college. 
 
 He visited his old home and had many 
 long talks of his childhood days with his 
 loved ones. And he was reminded of the big 
 stone in the pasture-field which he was so de- 
 termined to break. And he thanked his 
 heavenly Father for allowing him to break 
 the great rock of heathenism in north For- 
 mosa. 
 
 He returned to his mission work more 
 on fire than ever. If he had been received 
 
ggO BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 with acclaim in his native land, his Pormo- 
 san friends' welcome was not less warm. 
 Crowds of converts, all his students who 
 were not too far inland, and among them, 
 Mr. Junor, his face all smiles, were throng- 
 ing the dock, many of them weeping for joy. 
 It was as if a long-absent father had come 
 back to his children. 
 
 The work went forward now by leaps and 
 bounds. Mackay 's first thought, after a hur- 
 ried visit to the chapels and their congrega- 
 tions, was to see that the hospital and college 
 were built. 
 
 All day long the sound of the builders 
 could be heard up on the bluff near the mis- 
 sionaries ' houses, and in a wonderfully short 
 time there arose two beautiful, stately build- 
 ings. Mackay hospital they called one, not 
 for Kai Bok-su — ^he did not like things 
 named for him — ^but in memory of the hus- 
 band of the kind lady who had furnished the 
 money for it. The school for training young 
 men in the ministry was called Oxford Col- 
 lege, in honor of the county whose people 
 had made it possible. 
 
•J > J J 
 
REENFORCEMENTS 221 
 
 Oxford College stood just overlooking the 
 Tamsui river, two hundred feet above 
 its waters. The building was 116 feet long 
 and 67 feet wide, and was built of small red 
 bricks brought from across the Formosa 
 Channel. A wide, airy hall ran down the 
 middle of the building, and was used as a 
 lecture-room. On either side were rooms 
 capable of accommodating fifty students 
 and apartments for two teachers and their 
 families. There were, besides, two smaller 
 lecture-rooms, a museum filled with treas- 
 ures collected from all over Formosa by Dr. 
 Mackay and his students, a library, a bath- 
 room, and a kitchen. 
 
 The grounds about the college and hos- 
 pital were very beautiful. Nature had given 
 one of the finest situations to be found about 
 Tamsui, and Kai Bok-su did the rest. The 
 climate helped him, for it was no great task 
 to have a luxurious garden in north For- 
 mosa. So, in a few years there were magni- 
 ficent trees and hedges, and always glorious 
 flower beds abloom all the time around the 
 missionary premises. 
 
m% BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 But all this was not accomplished without 
 great toil, and Kai Bok-su appeared never 
 to rest in those building days. It seemed 
 impossible that one man should work so 
 hard. He was in Tamsui superintending 
 the hospital building to-day, and away off 
 miles in the country preaching to-morrow. 
 He never seemed to get time to eat, and he 
 certainly slept less than his allotted four 
 hours. 
 
 A great disappointment was pending, 
 however, and one he saw coming nearer 
 every day. The trying Pormosan climate 
 was proving too much for his young assis- 
 tant, and one sad day he stood on the dock 
 and saw Mr. Junor, pale and weak and 
 broken in health, sail away back to Canada. 
 
 But there was always a brave soldier wait- 
 ing to step into the breach, and the next year 
 Kai Bok-su had the joy of welcoming two 
 new helpers, when the Rev. Mr. Jamieson 
 and his wife came out from Canada and set- 
 tled in the empty house on the bluff. Yes, 
 and in time there came to his own house 
 other helpers — very little and helpless at 
 
REENFORCEMENTS 223 
 
 first they were — ^but they soon made the 
 house ring with happy noise and filled the 
 hearts of their parents with joy. 
 
 There were two ladies now to lead in the 
 work for girls and women. Their sisters 
 in Canada came to their help too. The 
 young men had a school in Formosa, and 
 why should there not be a school for women 
 and girls ? they asked. And so the Women's 
 Foreign Missionary Society of Canada sent 
 to Dr. Mackay money to build one. It took 
 only two months to erect it. It stood just a 
 few rods from Oxford College, and was a 
 fine, airy building. Here a native preacher 
 and his wife took up their abode and with 
 the help of Mrs. Mackay and two other na- 
 tive Christian women they strove to teach 
 the girls of north Formosa how to make 
 beautiful Christian homes. 
 
 And now to the two missionaries every 
 prospect seemed bright. The college, the 
 girls' school, the hospital, were all in splen- 
 did working order. Mr. and Mrs. Jamieson 
 were giving their best assistance. A Hoa 
 and the other native pastors were working 
 
^24 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 faithfully. God's blessing seemed to be 
 showering down upon the work and on every 
 side were signs of growth. *And then, right 
 from this shining sky, there fell a storm of 
 such fierceness that it threatened to wipe out 
 completely the whole north Formosan mis- 
 sion. 
 
UNEXPECTED BOMBARDMENT 
 
CHAPTER XI 
 
 UNEXPECTED BOMBAEDMENT 
 
 AN enemy's battle-ships off the coast of 
 Formosa! During all the spring ru- 
 mors of trouble had been coming across the 
 channel from the mainland. France ^ and 
 China had been quarreling over a boundary- 
 line in Tongking. The affair had been set- 
 tled but not in a way that pleased France. 
 So, without even waiting to declare war, she 
 sent a fleet to the China Sea and bombarded 
 some of her enemy's ports. Formosa, of 
 course, came in for her share of the trouble, 
 and it was early in the summer that the 
 French battle-ships appeared. They hove 
 in sight, sailing down the Formosa Channel 
 or Strait one hot day, and instantly all For- 
 mosa was in an uproar of alarm and rage. 
 The rage was greater than the alarm, for 
 
 1 War in 1844. 
 
 227 
 
BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 China cordially despised all peoples beyond 
 her own border, and felt that the barbarians 
 would probably be too feeble to do them any 
 harm. But that the barbarians should dare 
 to approach their coast with a war- vessel! 
 That was a terrible insult, and the fierce in- 
 dignation of the people knew no bounds. 
 Their rage broke out against all foreigners. 
 They did not distinguish between the mis- 
 sionary from British soil and the French 
 soldiers on their enemy's vessels. They 
 were all barbarians alike, the Chinese de- 
 clared, and as such were the deadly foe of 
 China. This Kai Bok-su was in league with 
 the French, and the native Christians all 
 over Formosa were in league with him, and 
 all deserved death ! 
 
 So hard days came for the Christians of 
 north Formosa. Wherever there was a 
 house containing converts, there was riot 
 and disorder. For bands of enraged 
 heathen, armed with knives and swords, 
 would parade the streets about them and 
 threaten all with a violent death the moment 
 the French fired a shot. 
 
UNEXPECTED BOMBARDMENT 229 
 
 In some places near the coast the Chris- 
 tian people dared not leave their houses, and 
 whenever they sent out their children to buy 
 food, often a heathen neighbor would catch 
 them, brandish knives over the terrified lit- 
 tle ones' heads and declare they would all be 
 cut to pieces when the barbarian ships came 
 into port. 
 
 Every hour of the day and often in the 
 night, letters came from all parts of the 
 country to Dr. Mackay. They were brought 
 by runners who came at great peril of their 
 lives, and were sent by the poor Christians. 
 Each letter told the same tale ; the lives and 
 property of all the converts were in grave 
 danger if the enemy did not leave. And 
 they all asked Kai Bok-su to do something 
 to help them. 
 
 Now Kai Bok-su was a man with great 
 power and influence both in Formosa and in 
 his far-off Canada, but he had no means of 
 bringing that power to bear on the French. 
 And indeed his own life was in as great dan- 
 ger as any one's. 
 
 He wrote to the Christians comforting 
 
230 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 them and enthusing them with his own 
 spirit. He bade them all be brave, and no 
 matter what came, danger or torture or 
 death itself, they must be true to Jesus 
 Christ. He went about his work in the col- 
 lege or hospital just as usual, though he 
 knew that any day the angry mob from the 
 town below might come raging up to destroy 
 and kill. 
 
 The French had entered Kelung harbor 
 and the danger was growing more serious 
 every day when Mackay found it necessary 
 to go to Palm Island, a pretty islet in the 
 mouth of the Kelung river. It was almost 
 courting death to go, but he had been sent 
 for, and he went. He found the place right 
 under the French guns and in the midst of 
 raging Chinese. Some of the faithful stu- 
 dents were there, and they were overcome 
 with joy and hope at the sight of him. He 
 gathered them about him in a mission house 
 for prayer and a word of encouragement. 
 Outside the Chinese soldiers paraded up and 
 down. Sometimes indeed they would burst 
 into the room and threaten the inmates with 
 
UNEXPECTED BOMBARDMENT 231 
 
 violence should the French fire. Kai Bok-su 
 went on quietly talking to his students. He 
 urged them to be faithful and reminded 
 them of what their Master suffered at the 
 hands of a mob for their sake. But, in spite 
 of their brave spirits, the little company 
 could not help listening for the boom of the 
 French guns. It was fully expected that the 
 enemy would soon fire, and when they did, 
 the Christians well knew there would be lit-^ 
 tie chance for them to escape. 
 
 But God had prepared a way out of the 
 difficulty. The meeting was scarcely over 
 when a messenger came in, asking for the 
 missionary. A Christian on the mainland 
 was very ill and wanted Kai Bok-su to visit 
 him. Mackay with his students left the is- 
 land at once and went to the home of the 
 sick man. 
 
 They had been gone but a short time when 
 the thunder of the French cannon broke over 
 the harbor. The guns from the Chinese fort 
 answered, and had the missionary been on 
 Palm Island he and his converts would 
 surely have been killed. 
 
^32 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 The Chinese were no match for the French 
 gunners. The bombardment destroyed the 
 fort and killed every soldier who did not 
 manage to get away. A great shell crashed 
 into the magazine of the fort, and the ex- 
 plosion hurled masses of the concrete walls 
 an incredible distance. The city about the 
 fort was completely deserted, for the people 
 fled at the first sound of the guns. 
 
 As soon as the firing was over, the rabble 
 broke loose and a perfect reign of terror 
 prevailed. The mob carried black flags and 
 swept over town and country, plundering 
 and murdering. The Christians were of 
 <30urse the first object of attack, and to tear 
 down a church was the mob's fiercest joy. 
 Seven of the most beautiful chapels were 
 completely destroyed and many others in- 
 jured. 
 
 In the town of Toa-liong-pong was the 
 iome of Koa Kau, one of Kai Bok-su's most 
 devoted students. Here was a lovely chapel 
 built at great expense. The crowd tore it 
 to pieces from roof to foundation. Then, 
 out of the bricks of the ruin they erected a 
 
L 
 
 "In the Town of Tao-lioxg-pong was the Home of Koa 
 
 Kau" 
 
UNEXPECTED BOMBARDMENT 23S 
 
 huge pile, eight feet high ; they plastered it 
 over with mud, and on the face of it, next 
 the highway where every one might see it^ 
 they wrote in large Chinese characters: 
 
 Mackay^ the black-bearded barbarian^ 
 LIES HERE. His work is ended. 
 
 They knew that the first was not true, but 
 they firmly believed the latter statement, for 
 they understood little of the power of the 
 gospel. 
 
 At Sin-tiam the crowd of ruffians smashed 
 the doors and windows of the church. Then 
 they took the communion roll and read aloud 
 the names of the Christians who had been 
 baptized. As each name was announced, 
 some of the murderers would rush off to- 
 ward the home of the one mentioned. Here 
 they would torture and often kill the mem- 
 bers of the family. The native preacher and 
 his family barely escaped with their lives. 
 One good old Christian man with his wife, 
 both over sixty, were dragged out into the 
 deep water of the Sin-tiam river. Here 
 
^34 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 they were given a choice. If they gave up 
 Jesus Christ, their lives would be saved. If 
 they still remained Christians, they would 
 be drowned right there and then. The brave 
 old couple refused to accept life at such a 
 cost. 
 
 ^*I'm not ashamed to own my Lord," was 
 a hymn Kai Bok-su had taught them, and 
 they had meant every word as they had 
 sung it many times in the pretty chapel by 
 the river. And so they were ^^not ashamed" 
 now. -They were led deeper and deeper into 
 the water, and at every few feet the way of 
 escape was offered, but they steadily re- 
 fused, and were at last flung into the river 
 — faithful martyrs who certainly won a 
 crown of life. 
 
 These were only two among many brave 
 Christians who died for their Master's sake. 
 Some were put to tortures too horrible to 
 tell to make them give up their faith. Some 
 were hung by their hair to trees, some were 
 kicked or beaten to death, many were slashed 
 with knives until death relieved their pain. 
 lAnd on every side the most noble Christian 
 
UNEXPECTED BOMBARDMENT 235 
 
 heroism was shown. In all ages there have 
 been those who died for their faith in Jesus 
 Christ; and these Formosan followers of 
 their Master proved themselves no less 
 faithful than the martyrs of old. 
 
 And where was Kai Bok-su while the mob 
 raged over the country? Going about his 
 work in Tamsui as of old. Only now he 
 worked both night and day, and the anxiety 
 for his poor converts kept him awake in the 
 few hours when he might have snatched 
 some sleep. He was here, there, everywhere 
 at once, it seemed, writing letters to encour- 
 age the Christians in distress, visiting those 
 who were wavering to strengthen their 
 faith, teaching his students, praying, preach- 
 ing, night and day, he never ceased; and 
 always the mob surged about him threaten- 
 ing his life. 
 
 The French ships now sailed out of Ke- 
 lung harbor and took up their position op- 
 posite Tamsui. Every one knew this prob- 
 ably meant bombardment, and Dr. Mackay 
 and Mr. Jamieson, standing on the bluff be- 
 fore their houses, looked at each other and 
 
^36 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 each knew the other's thought. Bombard- 
 ment would mean that the mob would come 
 raging up and destroy both life and prop- 
 erty on the hill. 
 
 But just as they expected the roar of gims 
 to open, there sailed into Tamsui harbor a 
 vessel that flew a different flag from the 
 Prench. Mackay, looking at her through 
 a glass, made out with joy the crosses on the 
 red banner of Britain ! England had noth- 
 ing to do with this Chinese-French war, but 
 as a British vessel can be found lying around 
 almost any port in the wide world, there of 
 course happened to be one near Tamsui. 
 She gained a passport into the harbor and 
 sailed in with a very kindly mission ; it was 
 to protect the lives of foreigners, not only 
 from the French guns, but from the Chinese 
 mobs. 
 
 The ship had been in the harbor but a 
 short time when a young English naval offi- 
 cer, carrying the British flag, came up the 
 path to the houses on the bluff. Dr. Mackay 
 w^as in the library of Oxford College, lectur- 
 ing to his students, when the visitor entered. 
 
UNEXPECTED BOMBARDMENT 23T 
 
 The missionary made the sailor welcome and 
 the young man told his errand. Dr. Mackay 
 was invited to bring his family and his valu- 
 ables and come on board the vessel to be the 
 guest of the captain until the disturbance 
 was over. 
 
 It was a most kindly invitation and Dr. 
 Mackay shook his visitor's hand warmly as 
 he thanked him. He turned and translated 
 the message to his students, and their hearts 
 stood still with dismay. If Kai Bok-su, 
 their stay and support, were to be taken 
 away, what would become of them? But 
 Kai Bok-su had not changed with the change 
 ing circumstances. He was still as brave 
 and undaunted as though trouble had never 
 come to his island. 
 
 He turned to the officer again with a 
 smile. *'My family would not be hard to 
 move," he said, **but my valuables — I am 
 afraid I could not take them." He made a 
 gesture toward the students standing about 
 him. *^ These young men and many more 
 converts scattered all over north Formosa, 
 are my valuables. Many of them have faced 
 
$38 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 death unflinchingly for my sake. They are 
 my valuables, and I cannot leave them." 
 
 It was bravely said, just as Kai Bok-su 
 might be expected to speak, and the English 
 officer's eyes kindled with appreciation. The 
 words found a ready response in his heart. 
 They were the words of a true soldier of the 
 King. The officer went back to his captain 
 with Mackay's message and with a deep ad- 
 miration in his heart for the man who would 
 rather face death than leave his friends. 
 
 So the British man-of-war drew off, leav- 
 ing the missionaries in the midst of danger. 
 And almost immediately, with a great burst- 
 ing roar, the bombardment from the French 
 ships opened. Sometimes the shells flew 
 high over the town and up to the bluff, so 
 Dr. and Mrs. Mackay put their three little 
 ones in a safe corner under the house ; but 
 they themselves as well as Mr. and Mrs. 
 Jamieson, went in and out to and from the 
 college, and the girls' school as though noth- 
 ing were happening. 
 
 Every day Mackay 's work grew heavier 
 and his anxiety for the persecuted Chris- 
 
UNEXPECTED BOMBARDMENT 239 
 
 tians grew deeper. He ate very little, and 
 he scarcely slept at all. It was not the noise 
 of the carnage about him that kept him 
 awake. He would have fallen asleep peace- 
 fully amidst bursting shells, but he had no 
 opportunity. The whole burden of the 
 young Church, harassed by persecution on 
 all sides, seemed to rest upon his spirit. 
 Anxiety for the Christians in the inland sta- 
 tions from whom he could not hear weighed 
 on him night and day, and his brave spirit 
 was put to the severest test. 
 
 Only his great strong faith in God kept 
 him up and kept up the spirits of the con- 
 verts who looked to him for an example. 
 And a brave pattern he showed them. Often 
 he and A Hoa paced the lawn in front of 
 the house while shot and shell whizzed 
 around them. During the worst of the bom- 
 bardment they came and went between the 
 college and the house as if they had charmed 
 lives. One day there was a great roar- and 
 a shell struck Oxford College, shaking it to 
 its foundations. The smoke from fort and 
 ships had scarcely cleared away when, 
 
240 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 crash! and the girls' school was struck by a 
 bursting shell. Next moment there was a 
 fearful bang and a great stone that stood in 
 front of the Mackays' house went up into 
 the air in a thousand fragments. 
 
 But when the firing was hottest, Kai 
 Bok-su would repeat to his students the 
 comforting Psalm : 
 
 ^'Thou shalt not be afraid for the terror 
 by night; nor for the arrow that flieth by 
 day." 
 
 But in spite of his brave demeanor, the 
 strain on the shepherd of this harassed flock 
 was beginning to tell. And when the bom- 
 bardment ceased and the intense anxiety for 
 his loved ones was over, Kai Bok-su sud- 
 denly collapsed. Dr. Johnsen, the foreign 
 physician of Tamsui, came hurriedly up to 
 the mission house to see him. His verdict 
 sent a thrill of dismay through every heart 
 that loved him, from the anxious little wife 
 by the patient's side, to the poorest convert 
 in the town below. Their beloved Kai 
 Bok-su had brain fever. 
 
 **Too much anxiety and too little sleep," 
 
UNEXPECTED BOMBARDMENT 241 
 
 said the medical man. ^^He must sleep 
 now," he added, *^or he will die." But now 
 that Kai Bok-su had a chance to rest, he 
 could not. Sleep had been chased away too 
 long to stay with him. Night and day he 
 tossed about, wide awake and burning with 
 fever. His temperature was never less than 
 102 during those days, and all the doctor's 
 efforts could not lower it. The awful heat 
 of September was on, and the great typhoons 
 that would soon sweep across the country 
 and clear the air had not yet come. The 
 glaring sun and the stifling damp heat were 
 all against the patient. At last one day the 
 doctor saw a crisis was approaching. He 
 stood looking down at the hot, flushed face, 
 at the burning eyes, and the restless hands 
 that were never still, and he said to himself, 
 *'If the fever does not go down to-day, he 
 will die." 
 
 The doctor went along ** College Eoad" to- 
 ward his home, answering the eager, anx- 
 ious questions that met him on all sides with 
 only a shake of his head. 
 
 A Hoa followed him, his drawn face full 
 
g4a BLACK BE ARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 ^— — — ^— *— — ^^1— — ■ ^.— ^^— — — — .^^^^—^ 
 
 of pleading. Was he no better? he asked 
 with quivering lips. It was the question 
 poor A Hoa asked many, many times a day, 
 for he never left the house when not away 
 on duty. The doctor's face was full of sym- 
 pathy and his own heart weighed down as he 
 sadly answered, ^*No." 
 
 ''If I only had some ice," he muttered, 
 knowing well he had none. *'If there was 
 only one bit of ice in Tamsui, I'd save him 
 yet." 
 
 Over in the British consulate Dr. John- 
 sen had another patient. Mr. Dodd lay 
 sick there, though not nearly as ill as the 
 missionary, and the physician's next visit 
 was to him. When he entered he found a 
 servant carrying a tray with some ice on it 
 to the sick room. 
 
 ''Ice!" cried the doctor, overjoyed. 
 "Where did it come from?" 
 
 The servant explained that the steamship 
 Eailoong had just arrived m Tamsui har- 
 bor with it that morning. The doctor en- 
 tered Mr. Dodd's room. Would he give him 
 that ice to save Mackay 's life ? was the ques- 
 
UNEXPECTED BOMBARDMENT 243 
 
 tion he asked. To save such a life as Mac- 
 kay's! That was an absurd question, Mr. 
 Dodd declared, and he immediately ordered 
 that every bit of ice he had should be sent 
 at once to the missionary's house. 
 
 The doctor hurried back up the hill with 
 the precious remedy. He broke up a piece 
 and laid it like a little cushion on poor Kai 
 Bok-su's hot forehead; that forehead be- 
 neath which the busy brain, resting neither 
 day nor night, was burning up. It had not 
 been there a great while before the restless 
 eyes lost their fire, the eyelids drooped and, 
 wonderful sight, Kai Bok-su sank into a 
 sleep ! The doctor hardly dared to breathe 
 If he could only be kept asleep now, he had 
 a chance. Dr. Mackay had never been a 
 sleeper, he well knew. He was too restless, 
 too energetic, to allow himself even proper 
 rest. When Dr. Fraser, his first assistant, 
 had been with him, he had struggled to per- 
 suade him to stay in bed at least six hours 
 every night, but not always with success. 
 But now he was to show what he could do 
 in the matter of sleeping. All that night Jie 
 
S44 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 lay, breathing peacefully, the next day he 
 slept on from morning till night, and little 
 by little the ice melted away on his fore- 
 head. He did not move all the next night, 
 and A Hoa and Mrs. Mackay and the doctor 
 took turns at his bedside watching that the 
 precious ice was always there. Morning 
 came and it was all finished. The patient 
 opened his eyes. He had slept thirty-six 
 hours, and a thrill of joy went through 
 every Christian heart in Tamsui, for their 
 Kai Bok-su was saved ! 
 
 But though the crisis was over, he was 
 still very weak, and such was the state of 
 affairs through the country that he was in 
 no condition to cope with them. Riot and 
 plunder was the order of the day. News of 
 churches being destroyed, of faithful Chris- 
 tians being tortured or put to death, were 
 still coming to the mission house, and no one 
 could tell what day would bring Kai Bok- 
 su 's turn. 
 
 And now came an order from the British 
 consul which the missionaries could not dis- 
 obey. He commanded that their families 
 
UNEXPECTED BOMBARDMENT 245 
 
 must be moved at once from Formosa, as he 
 could not answer for their protection. So 
 at once preparations for their departure 
 were made, and Mr. Jamieson took his wife 
 and Mrs. Mackay and her three little ones 
 and sailed away for Hongkong. 
 
 But once more Kai Bok-su stayed behind. 
 It cost him bitter pain to part with his loved 
 ones, knowing he might never see them 
 again; he was weak and spent with fever, 
 and his poor body was worn to a shadow, but 
 he stubbornly refused to leave the men who 
 had stood by him in every danger. The con- 
 sul commanded, the doctor pleaded, but no, 
 Kai Bok-su would not go. If the danger 
 had grown greater, then all the more reason 
 why he should stay and comfort his people. 
 And if God were pleased to send death, then 
 they would all die together. 
 
 But he was so weak and sick that the doc- 
 tor feared that if he remained there would 
 be little chance for the mob to kill him: 
 death would come sooner. So he came to his 
 stubborn patient with a new proposition. 
 The FuMen, a merchant steamship, was now 
 
M6 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 lying in Tamsui harbor. She was to run to 
 Hongkong and back directly. If Mackay 
 would only take that trip, his physician 
 urged, the sea air would make him new 
 again, and he would return in a short time 
 and be ready to take up his work once more. 
 
 It was that promise that moved Mackay 's 
 resolution. His utter weakness held him 
 down from work, and he longed with all his 
 soul to go out through the country to help 
 the poor, suffering churches. So he finally 
 consented to take the short journey and pay 
 a visit to his dear ones in Hongkong. 
 
 He did not get back quite as soon as he 
 intended, for the French blockade delayed 
 his vessel. But at last he stepped out upon 
 the Tamsui dock into a crowd of preachers, 
 students, and converts who were weeping 
 for joy about him and exclaiming over his 
 improved looks. 
 
 The voyage had certainly done wonders 
 for him, and at once he declared he must 
 take a trip into the country and visit those 
 who were left of the churches. 
 
 It was a desperate undertaking, for 
 
UNEXPECTED BOMBARDMENT 247 
 
 French soldiers were now scattered through 
 the country, guarding the larger towns and 
 cities and everjnvhere mobs of furious Chi- 
 nese were ready to torture or kill every for- 
 eigner. But it would take even greater dif- 
 ficulties than these to stop Kai Bok-su, and 
 he began at once to lay plans for going on a 
 tour. 
 
 He first went to the British consul and 
 came back in high spirits with a folded pa- 
 per in his hand. He spread it out on the 
 library table before A Hoa and Sun-a, who 
 were to go with him, and this is what it said : 
 
 British Consulate, Tamsui, 
 May 27th, 1885. 
 To THE Officer in Chief Command of the French 
 Forces at Kjelung: 
 The bearer of this paper, the Eev. Greorge Leslie 
 Mackay, D.D., a British subject, missionary in For- 
 mosa, wishes to enter Kelung, to visit his chapel and 
 his house there, and to proceed through Kelung to 
 Kap-tsu-lan on the east coast of Formosa to visit his 
 converts there. Wherefore I, the undersigned, con- 
 sul for Great Britain at Tamsui, do beg the officer 
 in chief command of the French forces in Kelung 
 to grant the said George Leslie Mackay entry into, and 
 
248 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 a free and safe passage through, Kelung. He will be 
 accompanied by two Chinese followers, belonging to 
 his mission, named, respectively, Giam Chheng Hoa, 
 and lap Sun. 
 
 A. Frater, 
 Her Britannic Majesty's Consul at Tamsui. 
 
 They had all the power of the British 
 Empire behind them so long as they held 
 that paper. Then they hired a burden- 
 bearer to carry their food, and Mackay cut 
 a bamboo pole, fully twenty feet long, and 
 on it tied the British flag. With this float- 
 ing over them, the little army marched 
 through the rice-fields down to Kelung. 
 
 It was an adventurous journey. But, 
 wonderful though it seemed, they came 
 through it safely. Poor Kai Bok-su's heart 
 was torn as he saw the ravages the mob had 
 made on his churches. But what a cheer his 
 heart received when he found that persecu- 
 tion had strengthened the converts that were 
 left and everywhere the heathen marveled 
 that men should die for the faith the barbar- 
 ian missionary had taught. 
 
 iThey were taken prisoners once for Ger- 
 
UNEXPECTED BOMBARDMENT M9 
 
 man spies, and led far out of their way. But 
 they came back to Tamsui safely, having 
 greatly cheered the faithful Christians who 
 still were true to their Master, Jesus Christ. 
 It was early in June, just one year from the 
 opening of the war, that the- French sailed 
 away. They were disgusted with the whole 
 affair, the commander of one vessel told Dr. 
 Mackay, and they were all very glad it was 
 over. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Jamieson and Dr. Mackay 's 
 family returned to their homes on the bluff, 
 and work started up again with its old vigor. 
 
 But everywhere the heathen were in great 
 glee. Christianity had been destroyed with 
 the chapels, they were sure. Wherever Mac- 
 kay went, shouts of derision followed him, 
 and everywhere he could hear the joyful cry 
 ^^Long-tsong bo-khi!" which meant *^The 
 mission is wiped out ! ' ' 
 
 But strange though it may seem, the mis- 
 sion had never been stronger, and it soon 
 began to assert itself. Dr. Mackay went at 
 the work of repairing the lost buildings with 
 all the force of his nature. First, he and 
 
250 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 Mr. Jamieson and A Hoa sat down and pre- 
 pared a statement of their losses. This they 
 sent to the commander-in-chief of the Chi- 
 nese forces, who had been responsible for 
 law and order. Without any delay or ques- 
 tioning of tha missionaries' rights, the gen- 
 eral sent Dr. Mackay the sum asked for — 
 ten thousand Mexican dollars.^ 
 
 The next thing was to plan the new chap- 
 els and see to the building of them. And 
 before the shouts of ^^Long-tsong bo-khi" 
 had well started, they began to be contra- 
 dicted by walls of brick or stone that rose 
 "up strong and sure to show that the mission 
 had not been wiped out. Three of the chap- 
 els were commenced all at once — at Sin- 
 tiam, at Bang-kah and at Sek-khau. Before 
 anything was done Dr. Mackay and a party 
 of his students went up to Sin-tiam to look 
 over the site. They stood up on the pile of 
 ruins, surrounded by the Christians, and a 
 crowd of heathen came around gleefully to 
 watch them in the hopes of seeing their de- 
 spair. 
 
 ^ About $5,000. 
 
Banc-kah Chapel 
 look now, the chapel towers above our temple' 
 
UNEXPECTED BOMBARDMENT 251' 
 
 But to their amazement the little company 
 of Christians led by the wonderful Kai 
 Bok-su, suddenly burst into a hymn of 
 praise to God who had brought them safely 
 through all their troubles : 
 
 Bless, O my soul, the Lord thy God, 
 
 And not forgetful be 
 Of all his gracious benefits 
 
 He hath bestowed on thee! 
 
 The heathen listened in wonder to the 
 words of praise where they had expected la- 
 mentation, and they asked each other what 
 was this strange power that made men so 
 strong and brave. 
 
 And their amazement grew as the chapels, 
 the lovely new chapels of stone or brick, be- 
 gan to rise from the ruins of the old ones. 
 And not only did the old ones reappear, new 
 and more beautiful, but as Dr. Mackay and 
 his native preachers went here and there 
 over the country others peeped forth like 
 the hepaticas of springtime, until there were 
 not only the forty original chapels, but in a 
 few years the number had increased to sixty. 
 
25^ BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 The triumphant shout that the mission 
 had been wiped out ceased completely, and 
 the people declared that they had been fools 
 to try to destroy the chapels, for the result 
 had been only bigger and better ones. 
 
 *^Look now," said one old heathen, point- 
 ing a withered finger to the handsome spire 
 of the Bang-kah chapel, that lifted itself to- 
 ward the sky, '^Look now, the chapel towers 
 above our temple. It is larger than the one 
 we destroyed." 
 
 His neighbors crowding about him and 
 gazing up with superstitious awe at the 
 spire, agreed. 
 
 ^*If we touch this one he will build an- 
 other and a bigger one," remarked another 
 man. 
 
 *^We cannot stop the barbarian mission- 
 ary," said the old heathen with an air of 
 conviction. 
 
 ^*No, no one can stop the great Kai Bok- 
 su," they finally agreed, and so they left off 
 all opposition in despair. 
 
 Yes, the cry of ^^Long-tsong bo-khi" had 
 died, and the answer to it was inscribed on 
 
UNEXPECTED BOMBARDMENT 253 
 
 the front of the splendid chapels that sprang 
 up all over north Formosa. For, just above 
 the main entrance to each, worked out in 
 stucco plaster, was a picture of the burning 
 bush, and aroimd it in Chinese the grand old 
 motto : 
 
 ^'Nec tamen consumebatur^' (^*Yet it was 
 not consimaed.") 
 
TRIUMPHAL MARCH 
 
CHAPTER XII 
 
 TRIUMPHAL MARCH 
 
 TTP and down the length and breadth of 
 ^ north Formosa, seeming to be in two 
 or three places at once, went Kai Bok-su, 
 during this time of reviving after the war. 
 He would be in Kelung to-day superintend- 
 ing the new chapel building, in Tamsui at 
 Oxford College the next day, in Bang-kah 
 preaching a short while after, and no one 
 could tell just where the next day. 
 
 But every one did know that wherever he 
 went. Christians grew stronger and heathen 
 gave up their idols. 
 
 The Kap-tsu-lan plain, away on the east- 
 em coast, seemed to be a sort of pet among 
 all his mission fields, and he was always 
 turning his steps thither. For the Pe-po- 
 hoan who lived there, while they were sim- 
 ple and warm-hearted and easily moved by 
 the gospel story, were not such strong char- 
 
 257 
 
258 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 acters as the Chinese. So the missionary felt 
 he must visit them often to help steady their 
 faith. 
 
 Not long after the close of the war, he set 
 off on a trip to the Kap-tsu-lan plain. Be- 
 sides his students, he was accompanied by a 
 young German scientist Dr. Warburg had 
 come from Germany to Formosa to collect 
 peculiar plants and flowers and to find any 
 old weapons or relics of interest belonging 
 to the savage tribes. All these were for the 
 use of the university in Germany which had 
 sent him out. 
 
 The young scientist was delighted with 
 Dr. Mackay and found in him a very inter- 
 esting companion. They met in Kelung, and 
 when Dr. Warburg found that Dr. Mackay 
 was going to visit the Kap-tsu-lan plain, he 
 joined his party. The stranger found many 
 rare specimens of orchids on that trip and 
 several peculiar spear and arrow heads to 
 be taken back as curios to Germany. But 
 he found something rarer and more wonder- 
 ful and something for which he had not come 
 to search. 
 
Wlgrim Congregational Cwuitcm. 
 
 St. Lou IT:. f,:o, 
 
 TRIUMPHAL MARCH 259 
 
 He saw in one place three hundred people 
 gather about their missionary and raise a 
 ringing hymn of praise to the God of heaven, 
 of whom they had not so much as heard but 
 a few short years before. He visited six- 
 teen little chapels and heard clever, bright- 
 faced young Chinese preachers stand up in 
 them and tell the old, old story of Jesus and 
 his love. And he realized that these things 
 were far more wonderful than the rarest 
 curios he could find in all Formosa. 
 
 When he bade good-by to Dr. Mackay, he 
 said: ^'1 never saw anything like this be- 
 fore. If scientific skeptics had traveled with 
 a missionary as I have and witnessed what I 
 have witnessed on this plain, they would as- 
 sume a different attitude toward the heralds 
 of the cross.'' 
 
 Not many months later Dr. Mackay again 
 went down the eastern coast. This time he 
 took three of his closest friends, all preacher 
 students. Tan He, Sun-a, and Koa Kau. 
 With a coolie to carry provisions, their 
 Bibles, their forceps, and some malaria 
 medicine, they started off fully equipped. 
 
260 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 By steam launch to Bang-kah, by a queer 
 little railway train to Tsui-tng-kha and by 
 foot to Kelung was the first part of the jour- 
 ney. The next part was a tramp over the 
 mountains to Kap-tsu-lan. 
 
 The road now grew rough and dangerous. 
 Overhead hung loose rocks, huge enough to 
 crush the whole party should they fall. 
 Underneath were wet, slippery stones which 
 might easily make one go sliding down into 
 the chasm below. 
 
 As usual on this trip they had many hair- 
 breadth escapes, for there were savages too 
 hiding up in the dense forest and waiting 
 an opportunity to spring out upon the trav- 
 elers. Dr. Mackay was almost caught in a 
 small avalanche also. He leaped over a nar- 
 row stream-bed, and as he did so, he dis- 
 lodged a loose mass of rock above him. It 
 came down with a fearful crash, scattering 
 the smaller pieces right upon his heels ; but 
 they passed all dangers safely and toward 
 evening reached the shore where the great 
 long Pacific billows rolled upon the sand. 
 They were in the Kap-tsu-lan plain. 
 
TRroMPHAL MARCH 261 
 
 Their journey through the plain was like 
 a triumphal march. Wherever a chapel had 
 been erected, there were converts to be ex- 
 amined; wherever there was no chapel, the 
 people gathered about the missionary and 
 pleaded for one. They often recalled the 
 first visit of Kai Bok-su when ^^No room for 
 barbarians" were the only words that met 
 him. 
 
 But Dr. Mackay wished to go farther on 
 this journey than he had ever gone. Some 
 distance south of Kap-tsu-lan lay another 
 district called the Ki-lai plain. The people 
 here were also aborigines of the island who 
 had been conquered by the Chinese like the 
 Pepo-hoan. But the inhabitants of Ki-lai 
 were called Lam-si-hoan, which means *^ Bar- 
 barians of the south." Dr. Mackay had 
 never been among them, but they had heard 
 the gospel. A missionary from Oxford Col- 
 lege had journeyed away down there to tell 
 the people about Jesus and had been work- 
 ing among them for some years. He was not 
 a graduate, not even a student — ^but only the 
 cook ! For Oxford College was such a place 
 
^62 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 of inspiration under Kai Bok-su, that even 
 the servants in the kitchen wanted to go out 
 and preach the gospel. So the cook had 
 gone away to the Ki-lai plain, and, ever 
 since he had left, Dr. Mackay had longed to 
 go and see how his work was prospering. 
 
 So at one of the most southerly points of 
 the Kap-tsu-lan plain he secured a boat for 
 the voyage south. The best he could get was 
 a small craft quite open, only twelve feet 
 long. It was not a very fine vessel with 
 which to brave the Pacific Ocean, but where 
 was the crazy craft in which Kai Bok-su 
 would not embark to go and tell the gospel 
 to the heathen? The boat was manned by 
 six Pe-po-hoan rowers, all Christians, and 
 at five o'clock in the evening they pushed 
 out into the surf of So Bay. A crowd of 
 converts came down to the shore to bid them 
 farewell As the boat shoved off the friends 
 on the beach started a hymn. The rowers 
 and the missionaries caught it up and the 
 two groups joined, the sound of each grow- 
 ing fainter and fainter to the other as the 
 distance widened. 
 
TRIUMPHAL MARCH 26gr 
 
 All lands to God in joyful sounds 
 
 Aloft your voices raise, 
 Sing forth the honor of his name, 
 
 And glorious make his praise ! 
 
 And the land and the sea, answering each 
 other, joined in praise to him who was the 
 Maker of both. 
 
 And so the rowers pulled away in time to 
 the swing of the Psalm, the boat rounded a 
 point, and the beloved figure of Kai Bok-su 
 disappeared from sight. 
 
 Away down the coast the oarsmen pulled,, 
 and the four missionaries squeezed them-^ 
 selves into as small a space as possible to be 
 out of the way of the oars. All the evening 
 they rowed steadily, and as they still swept 
 along night came down suddenly. They kept 
 close to the shore, where to their right arose 
 great mountains straight up from the wa- 
 ter's edge. They were covered with forest,. 
 and here and there in the blackness fires: 
 twinkled. 
 
 *^ Head-hunters!" said the helmsman^ 
 pointing toward them. 
 
 Away to the left stretched the Pacific 
 
^64 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 Ocean, and above shone the stars in the deep 
 blue dome. It was a still, hot tropical night. 
 From the land came the heavy scent of 
 flowers. The only sound that broke the still- 
 ness was the regular thud, thud of the oars 
 or the cry of some wild animal floating out 
 from the jungle. As they passed on through 
 i:he warm darkness, the sea took on that won- 
 derful fiery glow that so often burns on the 
 oceans of the tropics. Every wave became 
 a blaze of phosphorescence. Every ripple 
 from the oars ran away in many-colored 
 flames — red, green, blue, and orange. Kai 
 Bok-su, sitting amazed at the glory to which 
 the Pe-po-hoan boatmen had become accus- 
 tomed, was silent with awe. He had seen 
 the phosphorescent lights often before, but 
 never anything like this. He put his hand 
 down into the molten sea and scooped up 
 handfuls of what seemed drops of liquid 
 fire. And as his fingers dipped into the wa- 
 ter they shone like rods of red-hot iron. 
 Over the gleaming iridescent surface, sparks 
 of fire darted like lightning, and from the 
 little boat's sides flashed out flames of gold 
 
TRIUMPHAL MARCH 265 
 
 and rose and amber. It was grand. And 
 no wonder they all joined — Chinese, Ma- 
 layan, and Canadian — in making the dark 
 cliffs and the gleaming sea echo to the strains 
 of praise to the One who had created all this 
 glory. 
 
 come let ns sing to the Lord, 
 To him our voices raise I 
 
 "With joyful noise, let us the rock <■ 
 
 Of our salvation praise. 
 
 To him the spacious sea belongs, 
 
 For he the same did make; 
 The dry land also from his hand 
 
 Its form at first did take. 
 
 Dawn came up out of the Pacific with a 
 new glory of light and color that dispelled 
 the wonders of the night. It showed the voy- 
 agers that they were very near a low shore 
 where it would be possible to land. But the 
 helmsman shook his head at the proposal. 
 He pointed out huts along the line of forest 
 and figures on the shore. And then with a 
 common impulse, the rowers swung round 
 and pulled straight out to sea ; for with Pe- 
 
^66 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 po-hoan experience they saw at once that 
 here was a savage village, and not long 
 would their heads remain on their shoulders 
 should they touch land. 
 
 The scorching sun soon poured its hot rays 
 upon the tired rowers, but they pulled stead- 
 ily. They too, like Kai Bok-su, were anx- 
 ious to take this great good news of Jesus 
 Christ to those who had not yet learned of 
 him. When safely out of reach of the head- 
 hunters, they once more turned south, and, 
 about noon, tired and hot, at last approached 
 the first port of the Ki-lai plain. Every one 
 drew a sigh of relief, for the men had been 
 rowing steadily all night and half the day. 
 As they drew near Dr. Mackay looked 
 eagerly at the queer village. It appeared 
 to be half Chinese and half Lam-si-hoan. It 
 consisted of two rows of small thatched 
 houses with a street between nearly two hun- 
 dred feet wide. 
 
 The rowers ran the boat up on the sloping 
 pebbly beach and all stepped out with much 
 relief to stretch their stiffened limbs. They 
 had scarcely done so when a military officer 
 
TRIUMPHAL MARCH 26T 
 
 came down the shore and approaching Dr. 
 Mackay made him welcome with the greatest 
 warmth. There was a military encampment 
 here, and this was the officer as well as the 
 headman of the village. He invited Dr. 
 Mackay and his friends to take dinner with 
 him. Dr. Mackay accepted with pleased 
 surprise. This was far better than he had 
 expected. He was still more surprised to 
 hear his name on every hand. 
 
 **It is the great Kai Bok-su," could be 
 heard in tones of deepest respect from fish- 
 ermen at their nets and old women by the 
 door and children playing with their kites in 
 the wide street. 
 
 ^^How do they know me?" he asked, as he 
 was greeted by a rice-seller, sitting at the 
 open front of his shop. 
 
 *' Ah, we have heard of you and your work 
 in the north. Pastor Mackay," said his host, 
 smiling, ^^and our people want to hear of 
 this new Jehovah-religion too. 
 
 The cook-missionary had evidently spread 
 wonderful reports of Kai Bok-su and his 
 gospel and so prepared the way. He was 
 
g68 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 preaching just then in a place called Ka- 
 le-oan, farther inland. When the officer 
 learned that Dr. Mackay wanted to visit him 
 he turned to his servant with a most sur- 
 prising order. It was to saddle his pony and 
 bring him for Kai Bok-su to ride to Ka-le- 
 oan. 
 
 The pony came, sleek and plump and with 
 a string of jingling bells adorning him. A 
 pony was a wonderful sight in Formosa, and 
 Dr. Mackay had not used any sort of animal 
 in his work since that disastrous day when 
 he had tried in vain to ride the stubborn 
 Lu-a. But now he gladly mounted the se- 
 date little steed and trotted away along the 
 narrow pathway between the rice-fields to- 
 ward Ka-le-oan. 
 
 Darkness had almost descended when he 
 rode into the village and stopped before a 
 small grass-covered bamboo dwelling where 
 the cook-preacher lived. For years the peo- 
 ple here had looked for Kai Bok-su's com- 
 ing, for years they had talked of this great 
 event, and for years their preacher had been 
 writing and saying as he received his reply 
 
TRIUMPHAL MARCH 269 
 
 from the eager missionary in Tamsni, *^He 
 may come soon." 
 
 And now he was really here ! The sound 
 of his horse's bells had scarcely stopped be- 
 fore the preacher's house, when the news 
 began to spread like fire through the village. 
 The preacher, who had worked so hard and 
 waited so long, wept for joy, and before he 
 could make Dr. Mackay welcome in a proper 
 manner the room was filled with men, all 
 wildly eager for a sight of the great Kai 
 Bok-su, while outside a crowd gathered 
 about the door striving to get even a glimpse 
 of him. The ex-cook of Oxford College had 
 preached so faithfully that many were al- 
 ready converted to Christianity, many more 
 knew a good deal of the gospel, and crowds 
 were ready to throw away their idols. They 
 were weary of their heathen rites and super- 
 stitions. They were longing for something 
 better, they scarcely knew what. 
 
 ^^But the mandarin will not let them be- 
 come Christians," said the preacher anx- 
 iously. ^^It is he who is keeping them from 
 decision. He has said that they must con- 
 
rtO BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 tinue in idolatry, as a token of loyalty to 
 China." 
 
 ^'Are you sure that is true?" cried Dr. 
 Mackay. 
 
 The converts nodded. They had ^^ heard" 
 it said at least. 
 
 But Kai Bok-su was not the man to ac- 
 cept mere hearsay. He was always wisely 
 careful to avoid any collision with the au- 
 thorities. But remembering the kindness 
 shown him back in Hoe-lien-kang, he could 
 not quite believe that the mandarin who had 
 been so kind to him could be hostile to the 
 religion of Jesus Christ. 
 
 To think was to act, and early the next 
 morning, he was riding back to the seacoast, 
 to inquire how much of this rumor was true. 
 
 His reception was very warm. It was all 
 right, the officer declared. Whatever had 
 been said or done in the past must be for- 
 gotten. Kai Bok-su might go where he 
 pleased and preach his Jehovah-religion to 
 whomsoever he would. 
 
 It was a very light-hearted rider the pony 
 carried as he galloped back along the narrow 
 
TRIUMPHAL MARCH 271 
 
 paths, with the good news for the villagers. 
 The word went round as soon as he arrived. 
 Kai Bok-su wanted to know how many were 
 for the true God. All who would worship him 
 were at once to clear their houses of idols and 
 declare that they would serve Jehovah and 
 him only. At dark a great crowd gathered 
 in an open space in the village. Representa- 
 tives from five villages were there, chiefs 
 were shouting to their people, and when Dr. 
 Mackay and his students arrived, the place 
 was all noise and confusion. He was puz- 
 zled. It almost looked as if there was to be 
 a riot, though the voices did not sound angry. 
 
 He climbed up on a pile of rubbish and 
 his face shone clear in the light of the flar- 
 ing torches. His voice rang out loud and 
 commanding above the tumult. 
 
 **What is this noise about?" he cried. ^^Is 
 there a difference of opinion among you as 
 to whether you shall worship these poor toys 
 of wood and stone, or the true God who is 
 your Father?" 
 
 He paused and as if from one man came 
 back the answer in a mighty shout : 
 
27S BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 '*No, we will worship the true God!" 
 
 The tumult had been one of enthusiasm 
 and not of dispute ! 
 
 Kai Bok-su's heart gave a great bound. 
 For a moment he could not speak. He who 
 had so often stood up fearless and bold be- 
 fore a raging heathen mob, now faltered be- 
 fore this sea of eager faces, upturned to 
 him. It seemed too good to be true that all 
 this crowd, representing five villages, was 
 anxious to become followers of the God of 
 heaven. His voice grew steady at last, and 
 standing up there in the flickering torch- 
 light he told those children of the plain what 
 it meant to be a follower of Jesus Christ. 
 It was a late hour when the meeting broke 
 up, but even then Dr. Mackay could not go 
 to bed. Never since the day that A Hoa, his 
 first convert, had accepted Jesus Christ as 
 his Savior, had he felt such joy, and all 
 night he walked up and down in front of the 
 preacher's house, unable to sleep for the 
 thankfulness to God that surged in his 
 heart. 
 
 Morning brought a wonderful day for the 
 
TRIUMPHAL MARCH 273 
 
 Ki-lai plain. It was like a day when free- 
 dom from slavery was announced. Had 
 there been bells in the village they would 
 certainly have been rung. But joy bells 
 were ringing in every heart. Nobody could 
 work all day. The rice-fields and the shops 
 and the pottery works lay idle. There was 
 but one business to do that day, and that 
 was to get rid of their idols. 
 
 Early in the morning the mayor of the 
 place, or the headman as he was called, came 
 to the house to invite the missionary and his 
 party to join him. Behind him wall^ed four 
 big boys, carrying two large wicker baskets, 
 hanging from poles across their shoulders ; 
 and behind \ them came the whole village, 
 men, women, and children, their faces shin- 
 ing with a new joy. The procession moved 
 along from house to house. At every place 
 it stopped and out from the home were car- 
 ried idols, ancestral tablets, mock-money, 
 flags, incense sticks, and all the stuff used 
 in idol worship. These were all emptied into 
 the baskets carried by the boys. When even 
 the temple had been ransacked and the work 
 
874 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 of clearing out the idols in the village was 
 finished, the procession moved on to the next 
 hamlet. The villages were very near each 
 other, so the journey was not wearisome; 
 and at last when every vestige of the old 
 idolatrous life had been taken from the 
 homes of five villages, the happy crowd 
 marched back to the first village. There 
 was a large courtyard near the temple and 
 here the procession halted. The boys 
 dropped their well-filled baskets, and their 
 contents were piled in the center of the 
 court. The people gathered about the heap 
 and with shouts of joy set fire to these signs 
 of their lifelong slavery. Soon the pile was 
 blazing and crackling, and all the people, 
 even the chiefs of the villages, vied with 
 each other in burning up the idols they had 
 so lately besought for blessings. 
 
 And then they turned toward the heathen 
 temple and delivered it over to Kai Bok-su 
 for a chapel in which he and his students 
 might preach the gospel. 
 
 And so the temple was lighted up for a 
 new kind of worship. It had been used for 
 
TRIUMPHAL MARCH 275 
 
 worship many, many times before, but oh, 
 how different it was this time ! Instead of 
 coming in fear of demons, dread of their 
 gods' anger, and determination to cheat 
 them if possible, these poor folk crowded 
 into the new-old temple with light, happy 
 hearts, as children coming to their Father. 
 And was not God their Father, only they 
 had not known him before ? 
 
 The heathen temple was dedicated to the 
 worship of the true God by singing the old 
 but always new, one hundredth Psalm. The 
 Lam-si-hoan were not very good singers. 
 They had not much idea of tune. They had 
 less idea of just when to start, and there 
 was very little to be said about the harmony 
 of those hundreds of voices. But in spite of 
 it all, Kai Bok-su had to confess that never 
 in the music of his homeland or in the more 
 finished harmonies of Europe, had he heard 
 anything so grandly uplifting as when those 
 newly-freed people stood up in their idol 
 temple and with heart and soul and voice 
 unitedly poured forth in thunderous volume 
 of praise the great command : 
 
276 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 All people that on earth do dwell, 
 Sing to the Lord with cheerful voice. 
 
 For a whole week with his pony and 
 groom, which were still his to do with as he 
 pleased, the busy missionary rode up and 
 down this plain, visiting the villages, preach- 
 ing, and teaching the people how to live as 
 Jesus Christ their Savior had lived; for it 
 was necessary to impress upon their child- 
 like minds that it would be of no use to burn 
 up the idols in their homes and temple unless 
 they also gave up the still more harmful 
 idols in their hearts. 
 
 But at last the day came when the pony 
 had to be returned to its owner and the mis- 
 sionary and his helpers must leave. It was 
 a sad day but a joyous one — the day that 
 great visit came to an end. Crowds of Chris- 
 tians, fain to keep him, followed him down 
 to the shore, and many kindly but reluctant 
 hands shoved the little boat out into the surf. 
 And as the rowers sent it skimming out over 
 the great Pacific rollers, there rose from the 
 beach the parting hymn, the one that had 
 
TRIUMPHAL MARCH 277 
 
 dedicated the heathen temple to the worship 
 of the true God : 
 
 All people that on earth do dwell, ^ 
 Sing to the Lord with cheerful voice. 
 
 and from the rowers and the missionaries 
 in the boat, came back the glad echo : 
 
 Know that the Lord is God indeed 
 Without our aid he did us make. 
 
 They were soon out of sight. The rowers 
 pulled hard, but a stiff northeaster straight 
 from Japan was blowing against them, and 
 they made but little headway. Night came 
 down, and they were again skirting those 
 dark cliffs, where, here and there, along the 
 narrow strip of sand, the night-fires of the 
 savages flamed out against the dark tangle 
 of foliage. All night long the rowers strug- 
 gled against the wind. They were afraid to 
 go out far for the waves were wild, they 
 dared not land, for, cruder than the sea, the 
 head-hunters waited for them on the shore. 
 And so all that night, taking turns with the 
 rowers, the missionary and his students 
 
278 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 toiled against the wind and wave. The dawn 
 came up gray and stormy, and they were 
 still tossing about among the w^hite billows. 
 No one had touched food for twenty-four 
 hours. They had rice in the boat, but there 
 was no place where they dared land to have 
 it cooked. There was nothing to do but to 
 pull, pull at the oars, and a weary task it 
 seemed, for the boat appeared to make little 
 headway, and the rowers barely succeeded in 
 keeping her from being dashed upon the 
 rocks. 
 
 They were becoming almost too weak to 
 keep any control over their boat, when about 
 three o 'clock in the afternoon they managed 
 to round a point. There before them curved 
 a beautiful bay. Behind it and on both sides 
 arose a perpendicular wall several hundred 
 feet high. At its foot stretched a narrow 
 sandy beach. It was an ideal spot, secure 
 from savages both by land and sea. A shout 
 of encouragement from Kai Bok-su was the 
 one thing needed. Tired arms and aching 
 backs bent to the oars for one last effort, 
 and when the boat swept up on the sandy 
 
TRIUMPHAL MARCH 279 
 
 beach every one uttered a heartfelt prayer 
 of thankfulness to the Father who had pro- 
 vided this little haven in a time of such dis- 
 tress. 
 
 The rest of the journey was made safely, 
 and just forty days after their departure 
 the four missionaries returned, worn out, 
 to Tamsui. 
 
THE LAND OCCUPIED 
 
CHAPTER XIII 
 
 THE LAND OCCUPIED 
 
 T>UT Kai Bok-su had no sooner returned 
 -■-' than he was off again. He was not one 
 
 of that sort who could settle down after an 
 achievement, content to rest for a little. He 
 seemed to forget all about what had been 
 done and was **up and at it again." If he 
 **did not know when he was beaten," neither 
 did he seem to know when he was success- 
 ful; and like Alexander the Great he was 
 always sighing for new worlds to conquer, 
 yes, and marching off and conquering them 
 too. 
 
 But eyery time he returned to his work at 
 Tamsui from one of these tours, it was borne 
 in upon him more forcibly every day that 
 his faithful assistant who was left in charge, 
 could not long shoulder his work. Mr. 
 Jamieson was fighting a losing battle with 
 ill health. The terrible experiences during 
 283 
 
£84 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 the war year, the hard work, and the trying 
 Formosan climate had all combined against 
 him. His brave spirit could not always sus- 
 tain the body that was growing gradually 
 weaker, and one day, a dark, sad day, the 
 devoted soul was set free from the poor 
 pain-racked body. He had given eight years 
 of hard, faithful work to the study of the 
 language and to the service of the Master 
 in the mission. Mrs. Jamieson returned to 
 Canada, and once more Dr. Mackay faced 
 the work, unaided except by native preach- 
 ers. But he was not daunted even by this 
 bereavement, for he always lived in the per- 
 fect faith that God was on his side. 
 
 And then, he had by this time three new 
 assistants in the mission-house on the bluff. 
 They did not even guess that they were any 
 help to him, for they could never go with 
 him on his mission tours. But by their 
 sweet merry ways and their joyous welcome 
 to father, when he returned, they did help 
 him greatly, and made his home-comings a 
 delight. 
 
 ^*How many did you baptize, father?'' 
 
THE LAND OCCUPIED 285 
 
 was baby George's inevitable question on his 
 father's return. For already the wise tod- 
 dler had learned something of the bitter 
 enmity of the heathen world, and knew 
 that converts meant friends. Then father's 
 home-coming meant presents too, wonderful 
 things, bows and arrows, rare curios for the 
 museum in the college, and, once, a pair of 
 the funniest monkeys in the world, which 
 proved most entertaining playthings for the 
 little boy and his two sisters. Another time 
 the father brought home a young bear to 
 keep the monkeys company, but they were 
 not at all polite to their guest, for they made 
 poor bruin's life miserable by teasing him. 
 They would torment him until he would 
 stamp with rage. But he was not always 
 badly used, for when the three children 
 would come out to feed him, he was very 
 happy, and he would show his pleasure by 
 putting his head between his paws and roll- 
 ing over and over like a big ball of fur. And 
 he always seemed quite proud of his per- 
 formance when his three little keepers 
 shrieked with laughter. 
 
^86 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 The next year after Mr. Jamieson's death 
 the empty mission-house was once more 
 filled. In September the Eev. Mr. William 
 and Mrs. Gauld sailed from Canada, and 
 with their arrival Dr. Mackay took new 
 heart 
 
 The new missionaries had learned the lan- 
 guage and their work was well under way 
 when the time came round once more for 
 Dr. Mackay to go back to Canada for a 
 year's rest. This time there was quite a 
 little party went with him: his wife, their 
 three children, and Koa Kau, one of his stu- 
 dents. 
 
 Among those left to assist Mr. Gauld, 
 there was none he relied upon more than A 
 Hoa. Mr. Gauld, at the close of his second 
 year's work, wrote of this fellow worker: 
 **The longer and better I know him, the 
 more I can love him, trust his honesty, and 
 respect his judgment. He knows his own 
 people, from the governor of the island to 
 the ragged opium-smoking beggar, and has 
 influence with them all." 
 
 There were many others besides A Hoa to 
 
THE LAND OCCUPIED 287 
 
 render the missionary faithful help ; among 
 them Sun-a and Tan He, the latter pastor of 
 the church of Sin-tiam; and just because 
 Kai Bok-su was away they worked the 
 harder, that he might receive a good report 
 of them on his return. 
 
 The separation was longer this time, for 
 Dr. Mackay wished to send his children to 
 school, and he decided that they would re- 
 main in Canada two years. He was made 
 Moderator of the General Assembly, too, 
 and the Church at home needed him to stir 
 them up to a greater desire to help those be- 
 yond the seas. 
 
 While he was working and preaching in 
 Canada, his heart turned always to his be- 
 loved Formosa, and letters from the friends 
 there were among his greatest pleasures. A 
 Hoa's, of course, were doubly welcome. Pas- 
 tor Giam, the name by which he was now 
 called, was Mr. Gauld's right-hand helper in 
 those days, and once he went alone on a tour 
 away to the eastern shore. While there he 
 had an adventure of which he wrote to Kai 
 Bok-su. 
 
288 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 ^^The other morning wMle walking on the 
 seashore I saw a sailing-vessel slowly drift- 
 ing shoreward and in danger of being 
 wrecked, for there was a fog and a heavy 
 sea. I hastened back to the chapel and beat 
 the drum to call the villagers to worship. 
 As soon as it was over I asked converts and 
 heathen to go in their fishing-boats as 
 quickly as possible and let the sailors know 
 they need not fear savages there, and if they 
 wished to come ashore a chapel would be 
 given them to stay in. The whole crew came 
 ashore in the boats at once. I gave your old 
 room to the captain, his wife and child, and 
 other accommodation to the rest. I then 
 hurried away to a mandarin and asked him 
 to send men to protect the ship." 
 
 "When Kai Bok-su read the story and re- 
 membered that, twenty-five years earlier, the 
 crew of that vessel would have been mur- 
 dered and their ship plundered, he ex- 
 claimed with joy, *^ Blessed Christianity I 
 Surely, 
 
 Blessings abound where'er He reigns!" 
 
> 
 
 ^^ ■ %. ■ mm 
 
 1 ' 
 
 — '■"" \ 
 
 [ 
 
 
 2» 
 
 
 
 '^Jill 
 
 1|' 
 
THE LAND OCCUPIED 289 
 
 A Hoa had another tale to tell. One after- 
 noon he had a strange congregation in that 
 little chapel. There were one hundred and 
 forty-six native converts and twenty-one 
 Europeans. These were made up of seven 
 nationalities, British, American, French, 
 Danish, Turkish, Swiss, and Norwegian. 
 Their ship was from America and was 
 bound for Hongkong with coal-oil. 
 
 They were amazed at seeing a pretty, neat 
 chapel away in this wild, remote place, which 
 they had always supposed was overrun by 
 head-hunters, and indeed it was just that 
 little chapel that had made the great change. 
 These men now entered it and joined the na- 
 tives in worshiping the true God, where, only 
 a few years before, their blood would have 
 stained the sands. 
 
 A Hoa told them something of the great 
 Kai Bok-su and the struggles he had had 
 with savages and other enemies, when he 
 first came to this region. The visitors were 
 very much interested and did not wonder 
 that the name ^*Kai Bok-su" was held in 
 such reverence. [When they left, the captain 
 
290 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 presented the little chapel with a bell, a 
 lamp, and a mirror which were on board his 
 ship. 
 
 The long months of separation were roll- 
 ing around, when something happened that 
 brought Kai Bok-su back to his island in 
 great haste. Once more war swept over For- 
 mosa. This time the trouble was between 
 China and Japaru The big Empire proved 
 no match for the clever Japanese, and every- 
 where China was forced to give in. 
 
 One of the places which Japan set her af- 
 fections on was Formosa. She must have 
 the Beautiful Isle and have it at once. 
 China was in no position to say no, so the 
 Chinese envoy went on board a Japanese 
 vessel and sailed toward Formosa. When 
 in sight of its lovely mountains, without any 
 ceremony he pointed to the land and said, 
 *^ There it is, take it." And that was how 
 Formosa became a province of Japan. At 
 noon on May 26, 1895, the dragon flag of 
 China was hauled down from Formosan 
 forts and the banner of Japan was hoisted. 
 
 Of course this was not done without a 
 
THE LAND OCCUPIED 291 
 
 struggle. The Formosans themselves fought 
 hard, and in the fight the Christians came in 
 for times of trouble. So Kai Bok-su, hear^ 
 ing that his ** valuables" were again in dan- 
 ger, set sail for Tamsui. 
 
 When he arrived the war was practically 
 over, but everywhere were signs of strife. 
 As soon as he was able, he took A Hoa and 
 Koa Kau and visited the chapels all over the 
 country. Everywhere were sights to make 
 his heart very sad. The Japanese soldiers 
 had used many of the chapels for military 
 stables, and they were in a filthy state. At 
 one place the native preacher was a pris- 
 oner, the Japanese believing him to be a spy. 
 At another village the Christians sadly led 
 their missionary out to a tea plantation and 
 showed him the place where their beloved 
 pastor had been shot by the Japanese sol- 
 diers. Mackay stood beside his grave, his 
 heart heavy with sorrow. 
 
 But his courage never left him. The na- 
 tive Christians everywhere forgot their woes 
 in the great joy of seeing him once more; 
 and he joined them in a brave attempt to put 
 
29^ BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 things to rights once more. The Japanese 
 paid for all damages done by their soldiers 
 and in a short time the work was going on 
 splendidly. 
 
 *^We have no fear," wrote Dr. Mackay. 
 ''The King of kings is greater than Em- 
 peror or Mikado. He will rule and overrule 
 all things." 
 
 His faith was rewarded, for when the 
 troublous time was over, the government of 
 Japan proved better than that of China, and 
 on the whole the trial proved a blessing. 
 
 Oxford College had been closed while Dr. 
 Mackay was away, and the girls' school had 
 not been opened since the war commenced, 
 for it was not safe for the girls and women 
 to leave their homes during such disturbed 
 times. But now both schools reopened, and 
 again Kai Bok-su with his cane and his book 
 and his crowd of students could be seen go- 
 ing up to the lecture halls, or away out on 
 the Formosan roads. 
 
 He had conquered so often, overcome such 
 tremendous obstacles, and faced unflinch- 
 ingly so many awful dangers for the sake 
 
THE LAND OCCUPIED 298 
 
 of his converts, that it was no wonder that 
 they adored him, their feeling amounting al- 
 most to worship. ^^Kai Bok-su says it must 
 be so" was sufficient to compel any one in 
 the north Formosa Church to do what was 
 required. Surely never before was a man 
 so wonderfully rewarded in this life. He 
 had given up all he possessed for the glory 
 of his Master and he had his full compensa- 
 tion. 
 
 A few happy years sped round. The time 
 for him to go back home again was drawing 
 near when there came the first hint that he 
 might soon be called on a longer furlough 
 than he would have in Canada. 
 
 At first, when the dread suspicion began to 
 be whispered in the halls of Oxford College 
 and in the chapel gatherings throughout the 
 country, people refused to believe it. Kai 
 Bok-su ill? No, no, it was only the malaria, 
 and he always arose from that and went 
 about again. It could not be serious. 
 
 But in spite of the fact that loving hearts 
 refused to accept it,* there was no use deny- 
 ing the sad fact. There was something 
 
^94 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 wrong with Kai Bok-su. For months his 
 voice had been growing weaker, the doctors 
 had examined his throat, and attended him, 
 but it was all of no use. At last he could not 
 speak at all, but wrote his words on a slate. 
 
 And everywhere in north Formosa, con- 
 verts and students and preachers watched 
 and waited and prayed most fervently that 
 he might soon recover. Those who lived in 
 Tamsui whispered to each other in tones of 
 dread, as they watched him come and go 
 with slower steps than they had been accus- 
 tomed to see. 
 
 **He will be well next month," they would 
 say hopefully, or, *^He will look like himself 
 when the rains dry." But little by little the 
 conviction grew that the beloved missionary 
 was seriously ill, and a great gloom settled 
 all over north Formosa. There was a little 
 gleam of joy when the doctor in Tamsui 
 advised him finally to go to Hongkong and 
 see a specialist He went, leaving many lov- 
 ing hearts waiting anxiously between hope 
 and fear to hear what the doctors would say. 
 And prayers went up night and day from 
 
THE LAND OCCUPIED 295 
 
 those who loved him. From the heart-broken 
 wife in the lonely house on the bluff to the 
 farthest-off convert on the Ki-lai plain^ 
 every Christian on the island, even those in 
 the south Formosa mission, prayed that the 
 useful life might be spared. 
 
 But God had other and greater plans for 
 Kai Bok-su. He came back from Hong- 
 kong, and the first look at his pale face told 
 the dreaded truth. The shadow of death lay 
 on it. 
 
 Those were heart-breaking days in north 
 Formosa. From all sides came such mes- 
 sages of devotion that it seemed as if the 
 passionate love of his followers must hold 
 him back. But a stronger love was calling 
 him on. And one bright June day, in 1901^ 
 when the green mountainsides, the blue riv- 
 ers, and the waving rice-fields of Formosa 
 lay smiling in the sun, Kai Bok-su heard 
 once more that call that had brought him so 
 far from home. Once more he obeyed, and 
 he opened his eyes on a new glory greater 
 than any of which he had ever dreamed. 
 The task had been a hard one. The **big 
 
^96 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 -stone" had been stubborn, but it had been 
 broken, and not long after the noontide of 
 Ms life the tired worker was called home. 
 
 They laid his poor, worn body up on the 
 hill above the river, beside the bodies of the 
 Christians he had loved so well. And the 
 soft Formosan grass grew over his grave, 
 the winds roared about it, and the river and 
 the sea sang his requiem. 
 
 Oallant Kai Bok-su ! As he rests up there 
 on his wind-swept height, there are hearts 
 in the valleys and on the plains of his be- 
 loved Formosa and in his far-off native land 
 that are aching for him. And sometimes to 
 these last comes the question ** Was it well?" 
 Was it well that he should wear out that 
 splendid life in such desperate toil among 
 heathen that hated and reviled him? And 
 from every part of north Formosa, sound- 
 ing on the wind, comes many an answer. 
 
 Up from the damp rice-fields, where the 
 farmer goes to and fro in the gray dawn, 
 arises a song: 
 
 I'm not ashamed to own my Lord, 
 Or to defend his cause. 
 
THE LAND OCCUPIED 297 
 
 Far away on the mountainside, the once sav- 
 age mother draws her little one to her and 
 teaches him, not the old lesson of bloodshed, 
 but the older one of love and kindness, and 
 together they croon: 
 
 Jesus loves me, this I know, 
 For the Bible tells me so. 
 
 And up from scores of chapels dotting the 
 land, comes the sound of the old, old story 
 of Jesus and his love, preached by native 
 Formosans, and from the thousand tongues 
 of their congregations soars upward the 
 Psalm: 
 
 All people that on earth do dwell. 
 Sing to the Lord with cheerful voice ! 
 
 These all unite in one great harmony, re- 
 plying, * * It is well ! ' ' 
 
 But is it well with the work? What of 
 his Beautiful Island, now that Kai Bok-su 
 has left for a greater work in a more beauti* 
 f ul land ? Yes, it is well also with Formosa. 
 The work goes on. 
 
298 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 There are two thousand, one hundred 
 members now in the four organized congre- 
 gations, and over fifty mission stations and 
 outstations. But better still there are in ad- 
 dition twenty-two hundred who have for- 
 saken their idols and are being trained 
 to become church-members. The Formosa 
 Church out of its poverty gives liberally too. 
 In 1911 they contributed more than thirty- 
 five hundred dollars to Christian work. 
 ** Every year," writes Mr. Jack, "a special 
 collection is taken by the Church for the 
 work among the Ami — the aborigines of the 
 Ki-lai plain." This is the foreign mission of 
 the north Formosa Church. 
 
 A Hoa lately followed his pastor to the 
 home above, but many others remain. Mr. 
 Gauld and his family are still there, in the 
 front of the battle, and with him is a fine 
 corps of soldiers, comprising fifty-nine na- 
 tive and several Canadian missionaries, in- 
 cluding the Rev. Dr. J. Y. Ferguson and his 
 wife, the Eev. Milton Jack and Mrs. Jack, 
 the Rev. and Mrs. Duncan MacLeod, Miss 
 J. M. Kinney, Miss Hannah Council, Miss 
 
Mr. and Mrs. George Mackay 
 
 WITH HIS CANADIAN WIFE, HAS GONE BACK TO HIS NATIVE LAND' 
 
THE LAND OCCUPIED 299 
 
 Mabel G. Clazie, and Miss Lily Adair. Miss 
 Isabelle J. Elliott, a graduate nurse, and 
 deaconess, will join the staff shortly, and a 
 few others will be sent when secured, in or- 
 der that the force may be sufficient to evan- 
 gelize the million people in north Formosa. 
 
 Mrs. Mackay and her two daughters, 
 Helen and Mary, the latter having married 
 native preachers, Koa Kau and Tan He, 
 are keeping up the work that husband and 
 father left. A new hospital is being built 
 under Dr. Ferguson, and plans are on foot 
 for new school and college buildings. 
 
 And the latest arrived missionary ? What 
 of him ? Why his name is George Mackay, 
 and he has just sailed from Canada as the 
 first Mackay sailed forty-one years earlier. 
 He has been nine years in Canada and the 
 United States, at school and college, and 
 now with his Canadian wife, has gone back 
 to his native land. Yes, Kai Bok-su's son 
 has gone out to carry on his father's work, 
 and Formosa has welcomed him as no other 
 missionary has been welcomed since Kai 
 Bok-su's day. 
 
800 BLACK BEARDED BARBARIAN 
 
 But these are not all. From far across 
 the sea, in the land where Kai Bok-su lived 
 his boyhood days, comes a voice. It is the 
 echo from the hearts of other boys, who have 
 read his noble life. And their answer is, 
 ^/We too will go out, as he went, and fight 
 and win!" 
 
INDEX 
 
 A. 
 
 Adair, Miss Lily, 299 
 A Hoa, Giam Cheng Hoa, 
 74, 83; 
 first convert, 79, 80; 
 helper of Mackay, 84, 85, 
 89, 99, 111, 113, 117, 145, 
 146, 161, 162, 169, 178, 
 241, 247, 248, 291; 
 his first public address, 96- 
 
 98; 
 marked courage, 94, 163, 
 
 167; 
 member of church, 116; 
 pastor of first church, 154, 
 
 155; 
 spirit of good cheer, 91, 
 
 116, 178; 
 welcome letters to Mac- 
 kay, 287-289; 
 work completed, 298 
 America, the, 15, 19, 21, 22, 
 
 218 
 Ancestral worship, 71, 106 
 Annan, Ontario, Canada, ix 
 
 B. 
 
 Baby George's question, 285 
 Bang-kah, 150, 162; 
 
 church in, 174; 
 
 riot and rescue, 171 
 
 Bax, Captain, 125, 126, 128^ 
 
 140, 143, 145 
 Bear, pet, 285 
 Beautiful Formosa, 41, 49 
 Beauty in tropic forests, 49^ 
 
 50, 128-130, 182 
 Betel-nuts and tree, 50, 111 
 Bible, 69, 172; 
 
 inscription in Mackay 's,. 
 
 18, 19; 
 use of, among students,, 
 
 84, 207 
 '* Bird-listening,'' 137 
 * * Black-bearded barbarian, ' ' 
 
 3, 32, 68, 91, see also- 
 
 Mackay, George Leslie 
 * ' Black-face, ' ' native of 
 
 Kap-tsu-lan plain, 186,. 
 
 187 
 Bright prospects, 223; 
 
 sudden change, 228 
 Britain's banner, 22, 236 
 British consulate and consul's" 
 
 services, 30, 61, 151, 208,. 
 
 215 
 Building the church in Kap- 
 tsu-lan, 190; 
 near-by village work, 192^ 
 
 195 
 Busy Mackay, 222, 257 
 
 301 
 
802 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Call of Mackay, 7, 11, 17; 
 
 his response, 27 
 Campbell, Dr., 209, 210 
 Canada, boyhood home of 
 Mackay, 8; 
 his first return visit to, 218- 
 
 220; 
 his second return visit to, 
 
 286; 
 reenforcements and support 
 from, 211, 212, 215, 222, 
 223, 286 
 Canton, 23 
 Castor oil plant, 50 
 Changed from temple to 
 
 chapel, 274 
 Chapels destroyed, 232; 
 
 rebuilt, 250 
 Chhi-hoan, the, 124, see also 
 
 Head-hunters 
 China, Mackay bound for, 17; 
 transfer of Formosa to 
 
 Japan, 290; 
 wars with France and Ja- 
 pan, 227-249, 290 
 Chinese, boys at play, 64; 
 court-house and lack of jus- 
 tice, 70, 117-119; 
 filthy inns, 44-48; 
 language difficulties, 59, 
 
 62-64; 
 literati, 69-79; 
 religions, 70-72, 76-79 
 *' Chinese only,*' 210 
 Christ, see Jesus Christ 
 Christian wedding, first, 120 
 Christmas in Formosa, 115 
 <' Church bell," the first in 
 east Formosa, 188-191 
 
 Churches, built in north For- 
 mosa, 149-152, 158-161, 
 174, 190, 195; 
 destroyed, 232, 233; 
 rebuilt, 250-253 
 
 Clazie, Miss Mabel G., 299 
 
 Cobra, narrow escape from a, 
 127 
 
 Confucianism, 71 
 
 Connell, Miss Hannah, 298 
 
 Converts received, 116; 
 tested, 248 
 
 Cook from Oxford College as 
 missionary, 261; 
 told of Mackay, 267, 269 
 
 Coolie, Mackay 's first Chinese 
 teacher, 62, 64, 67 
 
 Coolies, 22, 38 
 
 Cows not milked, 68 
 
 Cures effected, 86, 87 
 
 D. 
 
 Dentistry, Mackay 's, 112, 113 
 Diary entry in Tamsui, 62 
 Dickson, Dr., 27, 38, 39, 45, 
 
 50, 55 
 Dispensary in Tamsui, 214 
 Dodd, Mr., 32, 242 
 Dutch fort on the bluff, 30, 
 
 59, 151, 208, 215 
 Dwarf, The, 125 
 
 Edinburgh, 17 
 
 Eitel, E. J., 22, 23 
 
 Elliott, Miss Isabelle J., 299 
 
 English Presbyterians in 
 
 south Formosa, 209 
 English sailors transgress in 
 
 Tamsui, 109 
 
INDEX 
 
 Pamilies leave Formosa for 
 Hongkong, 245 ; return, 
 249 
 
 Ferguson, ReiV. Dr. J. Y., 
 298, 299 
 
 Pifth commandment, effect 
 of, 107 
 
 Forceps and Bible, 112 
 
 Foreign Mission Committee 
 of Presbyterian Church 
 of Canada present Bible 
 to Mackay, 18 
 
 First church in north For- 
 mosa, 152 
 
 First convert won by Mac- 
 kay, 79, 83 
 
 Food in Formosa, 38, 67, 68, 
 206 
 
 Formosa, 24-26; Channel or 
 Strait, 24, 221, 227; 
 forests, 49, 50, 130; 
 Mackay decides for, 27, 29 
 
 Formosan martyrs, 234 
 
 France, war with China, 229- 
 249 
 
 Praser, J. B., M.D., ix, 212, 
 215, 243 
 
 Prater, A., 61, 247 
 
 Friends in need, 53 
 
 From far Formosa, x 
 
 Fujiyama, 20 
 
 Fukien, the, 245 
 
 Gauld, Mr. and Mrs. William, 
 
 286, 298 
 Geh-bai chapel, 159 
 General Assembly, 17, 287 
 Geography lessons, 84, 85 
 German scientist and Dr. 
 
 Mackay, 258, 259 
 
 Giam Cheng Hoa, 74, 76, 79, 
 
 . 83, see also A Hoa 
 Gifts to Formosa, 219 
 Girls ^ school, 223, 292 
 "G. L.," 6-12, 15, 19 
 God, 80, 96, 97, 130, 160, 173, 
 187, 191, 192, 267, 270, 
 289, 295; 
 as Father, 72, 94, 106, 107, 
 
 144, 271, 275; 
 as full of love, 70, 189, 190, 
 
 194; 
 glory of his works, 130, 
 207, 264 
 Go-ko-khi, 99, 100, 117, 120, 
 149; 
 chapel in, 150 
 Golden Gate, the, 15 
 
 H. 
 
 Eailoong, the, 242 
 
 Head-hunters, 51, 52, 183 
 
 Heathen hopes not realized, 
 249 
 
 Help from Canada, 211, see 
 also Canada 
 
 High degree scholar, a, 78 
 
 Ho Be, 30 
 
 Hobson, Mr., 24 
 
 Hoe-lien-kang, 270 
 
 Hongkong, 15, 22, 23; 
 
 Mackay 's trips to, 245, 246, 
 294, 295 
 
 Horses little known in For- 
 mosa, 40, 43 
 
 Hut and servant in Tamsui, 
 60; 
 furniture, 61 
 
 Ice in Tamsui, 243 
 Idol burning, 191, 274 
 
804! 
 
 INDEX 
 
 ''niha Formosa/' 25, 28, 29 
 Illness, Mackay's last, 294, 
 
 296 
 Incidents in the new church 
 
 in Go-ko-khi, 153 
 Invitation to join in a head 
 
 hunt, 138 
 
 Jack, Eev. Milton and Mrs., 
 
 298 
 Jamieson, Rev. Mr. and Mrs., 
 
 223, 238, 283 
 Japan and Formosa, 290 
 Japanese boatmen, 20 
 Jesus Christ, 10, 70, 77, 91, 
 
 124, 152, 156, 191, 204, 
 
 276; 
 call of Mackay and his de- 
 votion to his Leader, 11, 
 
 17, 62; 
 martyrs for, 233, 234; 
 story of. 114, 144, 189, 217, 
 
 272 
 Johansen, Dr., 240, 242 
 Joy in Ki-lai plain, 272, 273 
 Junor, Kenneth, 215, 218, 220, 
 
 222 
 "Justice,'' 70 
 
 Kai Bok-su, 83, see MacTcay, 
 
 George Leslie 
 Ka-le-oan, preaching in, by 
 college cook, 268; 
 Mackay 's reception in, 269 
 Kap-tsu-lan plain, early jour- 
 ney to, 177-183; 
 first church in, 187-190; 
 later results in, 191-199, 
 257-261, 287-289 
 Kelung, 89, 94, 160, 205 
 
 Ki-lai plain, 261; 
 
 Christian movement in. 266- 
 277 
 Kind hearts revealed by 
 
 Christianity,. 54 
 Kinney, Miss J. M., 298 
 Koa Kau, 232, 286, 291; 
 helps destroy a serpent, 
 
 205; 
 marries Helen Mackay, 299 
 Koxinga, Chinese pirate, 52 
 
 L. 
 
 Ladies in the work, 223 
 Literati scorn Mackay, 69; 
 tables turned on them, 77 
 Lu-a, the donkey, 178 
 
 M. 
 
 Mackay, George Leslie, bo3^ 
 hood, 3-12; 
 
 call, 11, 17; 
 
 careful preparation, 16, 17; 
 
 chosen as a foreign mission- 
 ary, 17; 
 
 course to his field, 15-17; 
 
 determination and enthus- 
 iasm, 6, 9, 51, 55, 62, 
 63, 156-169, 208, 209, 
 217-219, 222, 283; 
 
 entrance on his work, 31- 
 62; 
 
 learning Chinese language, 
 62-72, 84-86; 
 
 learning of the religions, 
 71, 72, 76; 
 
 meets A Hoa and wins him 
 as first convert, 74-80; 
 
 overcomes the literati, 75, 
 79, 103-105; 
 
 preaching tours, 86-100, 
 106, 107, llli 
 
INDEX 
 
 305 
 
 seeks to reach the head- 
 hunters, 123-144; 
 succeeds in winning Bang- 
 
 kah, 162-174; 
 trips to Kap-tsu-lan plain, 
 
 177-199, 258-261; 
 trip to Ki-lai plain, 261- 
 
 279; 
 unites with Tui Chhang Mai 
 
 in marriage, 215; 
 '* valuables, '^ 237, 238; 
 visits to homeland, 217-219, 
 
 286-291; 
 war's dangers met, 229- 
 
 249; 
 weakened by toil, survives 
 
 brain fever, 240-244; 
 welcomed by his children, 
 
 284, 285; 
 work crowned with victory, 
 295-300 
 Mackay, George, missionary's 
 
 son, enlists, 299 
 Mackay, Helen, 299 
 Mackay Hospital in Tamsui, 
 
 220, 240 
 Mackay, Mary, 299 
 Mackay, Mr. Alexander, ix 
 Mackay, Mrs. George, 299 
 Mackay, Mrs. G. L., 215, 299 
 Mackay, Mrs., of Detroit, do- 
 nor of money for Mackay 
 Hospital, in memory of 
 her husband, 219, 220 
 Mackay, Rev. R. P., D. D., ix 
 MacLaren, William, 18 
 MacLeod, Rev. Duncan and 
 
 Mrs., 298 
 Malaria, 52, 54, 114, 146 
 Malayans and Chinese, 52, 53, 
 
 188 
 Mandarin's injustice, 70, 118, 
 119; 
 
 another's course in Bang- 
 
 kah, 170-172; 
 another's cordial action in 
 the Ki-lai plain, 266-270 
 Martyrs at Sin-tiam, 234 
 Medical advice to the heathen^ 
 86; 
 native doctors, 213 
 Memory, Mackay 's, 105 
 Missionary doctor 's welcome, 
 
 213 
 Mission pets, 285 
 Monkeys as playthings, 285 
 
 N. 
 
 Native doctors and remedies, 
 
 213 
 New worlds to conquer, 283 
 
 O. 
 
 Offers of work to Mackay, 24- 
 
 **01d Hundred," 275 
 
 Orchids in Formosa forests, 
 129, 258 
 
 Ottawa, Canada, 18 
 
 Oxford College, Tamsui, 220, 
 236, 239, 261, 292, 293 
 
 Oxford County, Ontario, Can- 
 ada, 26, 219 
 
 Oysters, 206 
 
 P. 
 
 Pacific Ocean, 19, 262, 278 
 Palm Island, 230 
 Pastor Giam, see A Hoa 
 Payment for war's damage, 
 
 250 
 Pe-po-hoan, the, 53, 54, 177 
 Pigs in Formosan life, 45-48, 
 
 107-110, 154, 206 
 Pony-riding in Formosa, 268, 
 
 270, 276 
 
S06 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Portuguese sailors' name for 
 island, 25 
 
 Poverty, extreme, 69 
 
 Praise for deliverance, 251; 
 heathen comments, 252 
 
 Prayer, 73, 80, 166, 170, 206, 
 279 
 
 Praying for a convert, 73; 
 prayer answered, 75 
 
 Preaching in Chinese, 69 
 
 Presbyterian Church of Can- 
 ada, 17; 
 Mackay first foreign mis- 
 
 sionary of, 17, 18, 23; 
 made Moderator of General 
 Assembly of, 287, see also 
 Canada, reenforcements 
 and support from 
 
 Presbyterian Church of Eng- 
 land Mission in south 
 Formosa, 23, 26, 54 
 
 Princeton University, 17, 23 
 
 Q. 
 
 Quan Yin mountain, 29 
 ^'Queen's Hotel, 'M7, 48 
 Queen's University, 219 
 Quotation customs, Chinese, 
 104 
 
 E. 
 
 Eain, tropic, 115, 145 
 Eattan, 50 
 
 Eeverence for a teacher, 92 
 Eice-fields, Formosan, 28, 41, 
 
 49, 90 
 Eitchie, Mr., 26, 27, 28, 32, 
 
 51, 55, 210 
 Eobbers, 92 
 
 S. 
 
 Sa-kak-eng, 160, 161 
 Sampan, a, 23 
 
 San Francisco, 15 
 Scott, Mr., 171 
 
 Second church of north For- 
 mosa, 158 
 Second convert, 86 
 Sek-khau, 90 
 
 Serpent dangers, 88, 127, 205 
 Sin-tiam, 156; 
 
 church destroyed, 233, 287 
 So Bay, in a boat on, 262; 
 its phosphorescent lights, 
 
 264 
 '* South Wind Harbor," 195 
 Stone-breaking in Canada, 4- 
 
 6, 10, 11; 
 in Formosa, 59, 219 
 Story told the head-hunters, 
 
 144 
 Street preaching, 96, 106, 113 
 Students, Mackay •with his, 
 
 203 
 Sun-a, 178, 287 
 Sunday in Tamsui, Mackay 's 
 
 first, 32 
 Supposed demon possession,. 
 
 Mackay 's, 85 
 Swatow, 23, 24 
 
 Table Hill, 48 
 
 Tact, Mackay 's, 106 
 
 Takow, 26 
 
 Tamsui, 27, 29, 30, 31, 59, 60, 
 
 87, 249 
 Tan He, 158, 287; marriea 
 
 Mary Mackay, 299 
 Tan Paugh, mayor of Go-ko- 
 
 khi, 100, 149, 150 
 Taoism, 72 
 Tea and tea plantations, 51, 
 
 108 
 Teacher, reverence for a, 92 
 
INDEX 
 
 307 
 
 Tek-chham, 48; 
 
 chapel, 159; 
 
 soldier guard, 111 
 Ten commandments, the, 72, 
 
 150 
 Test of Mackay by Chinese 
 literati, 76; 
 
 counter-tests by him, 78, 
 104, 105 
 Thah-so, 99, 149, 155 
 Thompson, Dr., 24 
 Three missionaries in For- 
 mosa, 38 
 Toa-liong-pong, disaster at, 
 232; 
 
 inscription, 233; 
 
 martyrs, 234 
 Tobacco, 51 
 Tiong-lek, 44, 48; 
 
 hotel in, 44-47 
 Tongking, 227 
 
 Toothache turned to mission- 
 ary account, 111-113 
 Toronto, 17 
 Toronto Globe, x 
 Touring, 89; 
 
 with students, 259-261 
 Travel in Formosa, 37 
 Tropical weather, 89, 93 
 Tropic sights, 182, 264 
 Tsui-tng-kha, 260 
 Tui Chhang Mai, 215 
 
 Tumult of enthusiasm, a, 272 
 Turtles, 196; 
 Imitation of their tracks, 
 196 
 
 V. 
 
 Visit to the head-hunters, 125, 
 142; 
 visit returned, 143 
 Visitor and card, a, 74, 76, 77 
 
 W. 
 
 Warburg, Dr., 258 
 
 War, with France, 227-236; 
 
 with Japan, 290-292 
 War's damages, 250 
 '*Was it well?" 296 
 Water-buffaloes, 40, 64-67; 
 
 meat for food, 41, 67 
 "Whirlwind Mackay," 209 
 Women's Foreign Missionary 
 
 Society of Canada, 223 
 Women workers needed to 
 
 reach women, 216, 217, 
 
 223, 298, 299 
 
 Y. 
 
 Yokohama, 20 
 
 Z. 
 
 Zorra, Ontario, Canada, ix, 62 
 
Forward Mission Study Courses 
 
 " Anywhere, provided it be forward." — David Livingstone, 
 
 Prepared under the direction of the 
 MISSIONARY EDUCATION MOVEMENT 
 
 OF THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA 
 
 Editorial Committee: T. H. P. Sailer, Chairman; A. E. 
 Armstrong, T. B. Ray, C. L. White, J. E. McAfee, A. R. 
 Gray, G. F. Sutherland, H. P. Douglass, W. E. Doughty, 
 W. W. Cleland, J. H. Poorman. 
 
 The Forward Mission Study Courses are an outgrowth of a 
 conference of leaders in young people's mission work, held in 
 New York City, December, 1901. To meet the need that was 
 manifested at that conference for mission study text-books suit- 
 able for young people, two of the delegates, Professor Amos 
 R. Wells, of the United Society of Christian Endeavor, and 
 Mr. S. Earl Taylor, Chairman of the General Missionary Com- 
 mittee of the Ep worth League, projected the Forward Mission 
 Study Courses. These courses have been oflScially adopted by 
 the Missionary Education Movement, and are now under the 
 immediate direction of the Editorial Committee of the Move- 
 ment. The books of the Movement are now being used by 
 more than forty home and foreign mission boards and socie- 
 ties of the United States and Canada. 
 
 The aim is to publish a series of text-books covering the 
 various home and foreign mission fields and problems and 
 written by leading authorities. 
 
 The following text-books having a sale of over 1,200,000 
 have been published: 
 
I. The Price op Africa. (Biographical.) By S. Earl 
 Taylor. 
 
 3. Into All the World. A general survey of missions. 
 By Amos R. Wells. 
 
 3. Princely Men in the Heavenly Kingdom. (Bio- 
 graphical.) By Harlan P. Beach. 
 
 4. Sunrise in the Sunrise Kingdom. Revised Edition. 
 A study of Japan. By John H. DeForest. 
 
 5. Heroes of the Cross In America. Home Missions. 
 (Biographical.) By Don O. Sheltou. 
 
 6. Daybreak in the Dark Continent. Revised Edition. 
 A study of Africa. By Wilson S. Nay lor. 
 
 7. The Christian Conquest op India. A study of 
 India. By James M. Thoburn. 
 
 8. Aliens or Americans? A study of Immigration. 
 By Howard B. Grose. 
 
 9. The Uplift of China. Revised Edition. A study of 
 China. By Arthur H. Smith. 
 
 10. The Challenge of the City. A study of the City. 
 By Josiah Strong. 
 
 II. The Why and How of Foreign Missions. A study 
 of the relation of the home Church to the foreign missionary 
 enterprise. By Arthur J. Brown. 
 
 12. The Moslem World. A study of the Mohammedan 
 World. By Samuel M. Zwemer. 
 
 13. The Frontier. A study of the New West. By Ward 
 Piatt. 
 
 14. South America: Its Missionary Problems. A study 
 of South America. By Thomas B. Neely. 
 
 15. Tne Upward Path: The Evolution of a Race. A 
 study of the Negro. By Mary Helm. 
 
 16. Korea in Transition. A study of Korea. By James 
 S. Gale. 
 
 17. Advance in the Antilles. A study of Cuba and 
 Porto Rico. By Howard B. Grose. 
 
 18. The Decisive Hour of Christian Missions. A 
 study of conditions throughout the non-Christian world. By 
 John R. Mott. 
 
 19. India Awakening. A study of present conditions in 
 India. By Sherwood Eddy. 
 
 20. The Church of the Open Country. A study of 
 the problem of the Rural Church. By Warren H. Wilson. 
 
 21. The Emergency in China. A study of present-day 
 conditions in China. By F. L. Hawks Pott. 
 
 22. Mexico To-Day: Social, Political, and Religious Con- 
 ditions. A study of present-day conditions in Mexico. By 
 George B. Winton. 
 
 23. Immigrant Forces. A study of the immigrant in 
 his home and American environment. By William P. 
 Shriver. 
 
In addition to these courses, the following have been pub- 
 lished especially for use among younger persons: 
 
 1. Uganda's White Man of Work. The story of Alex- 
 ander Mackay of Africa. By Sophia Lyon Fahs. 
 
 2. Servants of the King. A series of eleven sketches of 
 famous home and foreign missionaries. By Robert E. Speer. 
 
 3. Under Marching Orders. The story of Mary Porter 
 Gamewell of China. By Ethel Daniels Hubbard. 
 
 4. Winning the Oregon Country. The story of Marcus 
 Whitman and Jason Lee in the Oregon country. By John T. 
 Faris. 
 
 5. The Black Bearded Barbarian. The story of George 
 Leslie Mackay of Formosa. By Marian Keith. 
 
 6. Ann op Ava. The story of Ann Hasseltine Judson. 
 By Ethel Daniels Hubbard. 
 
 These books are published by mutual arrangement among 
 the home and foreign mission boards, to whom all orders 
 should be addressed. They are bound uniformly and are sold 
 at 50 cents in cloth, and '65 cents in paper; postage, 8 cents 
 extra. 
 
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 Renewed books are subject to immediate recall. 
 
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