ress Club 
 , Outing. 
 
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BANCROFT 
 
 LIBRARY 
 
MICHAEL H. DE YOUNG, PROPRIETOR SAN FRANCISCO CHRONICLE. 
 PRESIDENT INTERNATIONAL LEAGUE OK PRESS CLUBS. 
 
A Press Club 
 Outing. 
 
 A trip .... 
 
 Across the Continent to attend the First Convention 
 ^of the International League of Press Clubs. 
 
 BY 
 
 Thomson P. McElrath, 
 
 Historian of the Trip. 
 
 NEW YORK: 
 
 International League of Press Clubs. 
 1893. 
 
\A IS" 
 
 Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1893, by Thomson P. McElrath, 
 in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 
 
 THE JAMES KEMI-STEK PRINTING COMI-ANY, 
 
 H7-1IQ-I21 Liberty Street, 
 
 New York. 
 
u. c. 
 
 OAOEMY O 
 ICIFIC COAST 
 HISTORY 
 
 HIS brief record of a very agreeable journey 
 from t]ie Atlantic to the Pacific and back again, 
 liad its origin in a resolution adopted by the 
 Convention of the International League of Press 
 Chibs, in session in the rooms of the San Fran- 
 cisco Press Club, January i^th, 1892. The 
 official report of the proceedings of that Conven- 
 tion refers to the subject as follows : 
 
 "On the motion of MR. WF.LSHONS, of Pittsburgh, Major 
 T. P. McELRATH, of New York, was elected Historian of the 
 League, to prepare a book descriptive of the California trip ; 
 with the President and Secretary as an advisory committee, to 
 arrange for the publication of the work." 
 
 The preparation of the book has been attended with 
 delays and hindrances both potent and unavoidable, for 
 which the writer alone is responsible, and for which he 
 asks the friendly indulgence of his fellozu travelers. 
 Similar lenity he trusts they will accord to the book 
 itself, accepting it rather in the light of a completed task 
 than in that of a finished production. It is too little 
 a pudding to contain many plums. Its purpose, as the 
 writer conceives it, will be fully served if it proves 
 adequate to keep alive the delightful personal associations 
 connected with the three memorable weeks of sunshine and 
 pleasure enjoyed by the Press Club Delegates to the San 
 Francisco Convention. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 At a public meeting of the International League of Press 
 Clubs in the Powell Street Opera House, San Francisco, on the 
 evening of January i5th, 1892, more than twenty letters from the 
 most eminent and successful men in journalism and literature were 
 read, and were received with cordial applause by the laige 
 audience. Extracts from a few of them will give an accurate idea 
 of the tenor of their expressions. Mr. George William Curtis 
 wrote: "The general objects of the League of Press Clubs, as I 
 understand them, seem to me worthy of the most zealous promotion. 
 I see no good reason why the courtesy of the press should not be 
 as distinguished as its independence and vigor." Mr. Chester S. 
 Lord wrote: "I approve most assuredly of the objects and 
 purposes which have led to the organization of the International 
 League, and I wish the association every possible success." Hon. 
 Theodore Barth wrote from Berlin : " Unfortunately, my duties 
 as a member of the German Reichstag, just now in session, do 
 not permit the acceptance of the invitation. This I regret so 
 much more because, in my opinion, the idea of uniting repre- 
 sentatives of the press in international congresses is a very happy 
 one. In view of the far-reaching and constantly growing 
 influence of the press, its representatives can do more than legis- 
 lators and diplomats for maintaining friendly relations among 
 nations, towards removing nativistic prejudices, for exercising 
 international justice and fostering especially interests which are 
 common to all mankind." Colonel John A. Cockerill wrote : "I 
 believed in the League from the outset. The best results must 
 
flow from the establishment of the closer brotherhood among the 
 press workers of both hemispheres." Dr. Max Nordeau wrote 
 from Paris : " I am at heart with you. I highly appreciate 
 your noble aim, and think it a most happy idea to unite all the 
 press workers of the world in one great brotherhood." Hon. 
 Amos J. Cummings wrote : "I hope that the International League 
 of Press Clubs will finally include delegates from press clubs in 
 every State in the United States where a daily newspaper is 
 published." The other letters were similar in their endorsements 
 of the plans and purposes of the organization of the newspaper 
 workers of the world. These quotations are made for the reason 
 that the writers represent the various phases of practical and 
 successful journalism. 
 
 There has always been a need of a general association of the 
 people who write and edit newspapers, but one great obstacle 
 stood in the way of those who tried to carry the matter to a 
 substantial result. Newspaper men are bothered with hard things 
 called opinions, and when the matter is close to their own interests 
 the opinion is apt to be somewhat narrow, which, of course, goes 
 to show that the newspaper men are painfully like the rest of their 
 race. So, while the journalism of the world has been the evangel 
 and the messenger boy of civilization, and has spread progress 
 and culture and humanity until its scope has measured to the limit 
 of human achievement, with all the widening possibilities of life 
 itself, the newspaper men, as a profession, have not done what 
 they could have done to get together and to receive the benefits 
 that must always come from association. The reasons for this 
 are many, and all are sufficient. In the first place, the bees in 
 the hive are busy bees, always at work making honey or 
 the other thing and with few spare moments for . assembling 
 under the roses to discuss co-operative industry and organized 
 
courtesy. Then, too, the different swarms have shown a great 
 fondness for swarming by themselves without even the formality of 
 fraternal greetings to the other swarms. And so it has gone on 
 until the International League of Press Clubs has opened a way 
 along which all may go. 
 
 There are numerous organizations of editors and publishers in 
 this and other countries, and all are useful, but they are organiza- 
 tions of representatives of newspapers. The League differs from 
 them in that it binds together the associations of newspaper men. 
 It represents the journalists as individuals rather than the news- 
 papers as institutions. It is more social in its ambition, and " its 
 objects," to quote its Constitution, "are to bring into close and 
 friendly relations the press clubs of the world, and promote a more 
 fraternal and helpful feeling among its members." It thus 
 antagonizes none of the other organizations, but invites the favor 
 and co-operation of all. The desire, especially, is to organize the 
 men and women of the daily press more thoroughly. Press Clubs 
 with us are modern. They are the out-growth of the new 
 conditions in journalism. As they multiplied and became greater 
 in membership and more important in material prosperity than all 
 the other Press Clubs in the world, they felt the wisdom of a 
 closer communion of interests and began to discuss means by 
 which mutual advantages could be secured. About ten years ago 
 the project of a national association was mooted. Shortly after- 
 wards the New York Press Club sent out circulars calling for a 
 meeting of representatives of all the Press Clubs of the country. 
 Differences between the East and West defeated the enterprise 
 and it was not until a few years ago that it was revived. Mr. 
 Thomas J. Keenan, Jr., then Secretary, and afterwards President, 
 of the Pittsburgh Press Club, entered into correspondence with 
 the Clubs of Canada and the United States, and the outcome of 
 
his work was a formal invitation to "the journalistic organizations 
 of the United States, Canada, the City of Mexico, and the capital 
 cities of Europe and South America, to send delegates to a 
 Convention to be held in Pittsburgh, on January 27th, 1891, for the 
 purpose of organizing an International Association of Press Clubs." 
 
 Twenty-three clubs were represented in the Convention. The 
 visitors were royally entertained. In the three days the League 
 was born, christened and matured, and Mr. Keenan was unanimously 
 elected its first President. The merits of the movement were 
 briefly : The association of the organizations of the newspaper 
 men and newspaper women of the world ; the interchangeable 
 credentials that admitted the member of one club to all clubs of 
 the League ; the mutual assistance and encouragement of League 
 members, and the general purpose to give the profession, or 
 calling, as you wish, the broadest benefits of organization. The 
 League met with immediate favor, and the proof of its usefulness 
 is found in the fact that since it was established the press clubs in 
 this country have increased nearly one hundred per cent, in number, 
 and more than one hundred per cent, in membership. The coming 
 in of the German Press Clubs, and many of the Women Press 
 Clubs, had a decided effect upon the life of the new organization. 
 
 In the pages which follow, Major McElrath tells most 
 delightfully the story of a wonderful journey. The League had 
 been invited to various cities, but San Francisco's offer of sunshine 
 and flowers in' January won the overwhelming favor of the 
 Convention. For months previous to the opening of 1892, the 
 Board of Governors was holding meetings in New York, shaping 
 the affairs of the League and completing the arrangements for the 
 transcontinental tour. The marvels of California's hospitality, the 
 constant newness of scene and incident, and the beauty and the 
 glory of it all, are described by Major McElrath. But, outside of 
 
the entertainment, much was done by the delegates representing 
 Press Clubs in nearly twenty States of the country, and indirectly 
 representing thousands of newspaper workers. Especially important 
 was the inauguration of a scheme to establish a home for aged and 
 infirm journalists. The attention that the trip attracted can be 
 inferred from the fact that more than four hundred columns of 
 matter was written about it in the newspapers, including reports of 
 the speeches, which have been omitted from this otherwise faithful 
 narrative because it was desirable to limit the book to one volume 
 and not to publish it on the instalment plan. 
 
 Of course, the League is not old enough to be judged as an 
 international organization. Its career thus far is mainly experimental, 
 but that there is need of it is evident. It represents the better 
 aspirations of a calling that has the leadership of thought and 
 progress as its destiny. There is no evolution more remarkable 
 than that which is going on in journalism. Already the advance 
 has been beyond every expectation, not only in methods and 
 resources but in men and manners. Times have changed since the 
 days when ministers were hauled up before their brothers and tried 
 for making and selling whiskey, not because they made and sold 
 whiskey, but because the whiskey was bad. Times have changed 
 since the judge adjourned the court to see the elephant swim the 
 river, and since drunkenness was regarded as a gentlemanly 
 indulgence among the members of the bar. And times have 
 changed since genius drank beer and smoked pipes in cellars and 
 attics and made impecuniosity a cardinal virtue. The newspaper 
 man of to-day is as well trained and as well educated as his 
 professional contemporary in the pulpit or at the bar. He is no 
 longer a Bohemian ; he is one of the hardest of the world's 
 workers, and a practical citizen. Occasionally he becomes a 
 plutocrat ; sometimes he is a member of the Cabinet, or a minister 
 
 1 1 
 
to a foreign court ; he is found in the House of Representatives 
 and in the Senate ; he permeates all the departments of literature 
 but, generally, and at his best, he is the ever-busy, ever-thoughtful, 
 ever-anxious factor of news-collecting and news-editing the historian 
 of his times the educator of his generation, and a right good 
 fellow, who has his share of the virtues and the frailties of 
 humanity. Times, too, have changed since the newspapers were 
 published in dingy buildings amidst darkness and dust. Now, the 
 buildings rise as far toward Heaven as they can get, and stand as 
 achievements of architecture and as wonders for the special delight 
 of country subscribers. This development is confined to no 
 section ; it is going on everywhere. The largest newspaper building 
 in America is west of the Mississippi River, and the Pacific coast 
 rivals the old established papers of the East in great performances 
 of news-gathering. While this country has distanced history and 
 outdone the earth in its marvelous development, its newspapers 
 have multiplied nine times more rapidly than its population, and 
 their value has increased sixteen times faster than the national 
 wealth. Last, but not least, the census gentleman is kind enough 
 to inform us that of all the professions journalism is, on the average, 
 the best paid. Considering these things, it is not too much to look 
 forward to the time when the newspaper men shall have a general 
 organization that will command the attention and the respect and 
 the serious consideration of the world. 
 
 The League is young yet, and its plans and purposes are only 
 partly understood, but even in this stage of its development it 
 has been an influence for good, and has given a promise of 
 usefulness that has more than fulfilled the hopes of those who 
 were most active in organizing it. The extension of the League 
 to all parts of newspaperdom will necessarily be slow, because 
 many countries are without press clubs. But they will come in 
 
time. Those of us who want immediate results should look at 
 the history of other professions. It took the doctors a great 
 many years to establish their medical congress. Bar associations 
 were the outgrowth of almost interminable efforts and discussions 
 among the lawyers. Pan-church conferences are as old as the 
 dogmas in theory, but they are extremely modern in fact. Science 
 debated and struggled a long time before its representatives met 
 in international councils. The Press League is less than three 
 years old, but its strength has been splendidly seen in the growth 
 of press clubs and the evident desire for better organization 
 among newspaper men. Its real work has hardly begun, and its 
 full advantages cannot be appreciated until it has become truly 
 international in its scope and membership. When that point is 
 reached it will be one of the most powerful organizations on earth. 
 It is easy to smile at such optimism, but is there any one who 
 honestly doubts that journalism, if it is not now, is sure to be the 
 greatest factor, if not the greatest force, o'f civilization ? Every 
 day the world is living and moving more and more in its news- 
 . papers. Every day the newspapers are more and more absorbing 
 the thought and directing the activities of mankind. 
 
 It is not claimed that the League represents all journalism. 
 But it would like to represent it. It is a candidate for that high 
 honor. It is a move which earnest men and women have made, 
 and they desire to see their work taken up and advanced until 
 it reaches to all the corners of the earth. It would be a happy 
 satisfaction to mention the names of those who have been most 
 active in the labors that have brought the League to its present 
 position, but all the delegates and officers have cordially co-operated, 
 and this is not a directory, but a preface which should have been 
 written by a more important person than an ex-vice-president. 
 
 LYNN R. MEEKINS. 
 
 BALTIMORE, MARCH 15x11, 1893. 
 
" They rested there, escaped awhile 
 
 From cares that wear the life away, 
 To eat the lotus of the Nile 
 And drink the poppies of Cathay." 
 
 1*2 
 
or, 
 
 ^ 
 
 of fruit, flowers and frost ; of sleet and snow, 
 and summer softness ; of snow-capped mount- 
 ains and valleys of sempiternal verdure ; of 
 ice-locked streams and sea bathing in mid- 
 winter ; of royal hospitalities enjoyed while 
 loitering on the sunny shore of the Pacific, and 
 literary enterprise maintained at highest railway 
 speed, among the snowy crests of the Rockies ; 
 of never-wearying charms of feminine sweetness 
 
 f and melody, and never-ceasing iterations of speech- 
 making men ; these and other points 
 of close resemblance and startling 
 contrast I am called upon to 
 describe briefly, in a 
 narrative of 
 
 ' a Railroad Journey from 
 New York^.San Francisco 
 
 %. ^ and k'ctll I'll . <..<. 
 
 
 . ... 
 
 : . 
 
THE GKANU CENTRAL STATION NEW YORK. 
 
CHAPTER i. 
 
 NEW YORK TO SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 JANUARY 6-13, 1892. 
 
 * 
 
 HERE was a jolly gathering of men and women 
 connected with the newspaper craft in the Grand 
 Central Station, in New York City, on the morning 
 of Wednesday, January 6th, 1892. Outside, the 
 streets were rapidly whitening under the first heavy 
 snowfall of the winter, and the sky was black with 
 lowering clouds. It was a disagreeable day for out- 
 door avocations. But in the passenger room of the 
 New York Central and Hudson River Railroad on that eventful 
 morning the state of the atmosphere was not a subject for even 
 casual discussion. As the party arrived, singly or in couples, 
 cordial greetings were exchanged, while the snow was brushed 
 and shaken from overcoat and mantle, and all local consider- 
 ations were ignored in the enthusiasm of joyous expectancy 
 that illuminates the spirits of people starting from home in the 
 quest of pleasure. The object of this gathering of dames and 
 knights of quill and pencil was to attend the first annual Conven- 
 tion of the International League of Press Clubs, which was 
 appointed to be held in San Francisco on January i3th. A year 
 previously a similar excursion, on a smaller scale, had been made 
 by delegates from twenty-three Press Clubs of the East and the 
 West to the City of Pittsburgh, where, in the intervals of a royal 
 
 17 
 
entertainment, to which the whole population of that enterprising 
 city seemed to contribute, there was organized a League, framed 
 to comprise in its membership all the Press Clubs of the world. 
 It was a charming initiation of a beneficent enterprise, of whose 
 possible scope prediction would as yet be futile. Several of those 
 who attended that earlier Convention were among the present 
 party, but the large feminine representation in the latter was an 
 innovation, growing naturally out of one of the League's pet 
 theories concerning the intellectual equality of the sexes. As the 
 membership is open equally to women of the press as to men, the 
 committee having charge of the preparations for the San Francisco 
 Convention authorized each delegate to invite his wife, or, in 
 default of such incumbrance, his best girl, to accompany him. The 
 advantage of this arrangement was manifest from the outset, 
 particularly in the case of the married delegates, as it positively 
 insured the presence of the better half of each domestic establish- 
 ment represented, and on an occasion of this kind only the best 
 was desirable. The persons who set out from New York, and who 
 joined the party on the route, and the Press Clubs to which they 
 respectively were credited, were the following : 
 
 NEW YORK PRESS CLUB: 
 
 William Berri, Chairman, Brooklyn Standard- Union ; Charles W. Price, Electrical 
 Review; W. R. Worrall, Mail and Express; Major T. P. McElrath, American 
 Analyst ; J. I. Charlouis, The School Journal ; George F. Lyon, Law Journal ; Thos. 
 H. Evans, New York representative Chicago Tribune and San Francisco Chronicle ; 
 Alfred E. Pearsall, Commercial Advertiser ; E. B. Phelps, The Club ; Chas. H. 
 George, New York correspondent Baltimore American; Samuel C. Austin, Asso- 
 ciated Press ; Marshall P. Wilder, Sunday Advertiser ; W. N. Penney, United Press. 
 Guests Mrs. William Berri, Mrs. Chas. W. Price, Mrs. W. R. Worrall, Mrs. T. P. 
 McElrath, Mrs. J. I. Charlouis, Mrs. Geo. F. Lyon, Mrs. Thos. H. Evans, Master 
 "Tom" Evans, Mr. W. C. K. Wilde, Mrs. Frank Leslie- Wilde, Miss Mattison, 
 Miss Kellogg, Miss Cottrell, Miss Kate Field, Dr. A. S. Hunter and wife, Miss 
 Elita Proctor Otis, Mr. Foster Coates, Mr. M. H. Brown, Mr. G. H. Lowerre, 
 Mr. J. Seaver Page, Mr. J. C. Yager and wife, Mr. M. C. Roach. 
 
 18 
 
' 
 
 THE NEW YORK PRESS CLUB DELEGATES. 
 
 W. H. WORRAI.I., W. N. PENNKV, J. I. CHARLOUIS, C. H. GEORGE, 
 
 T. P. McEi.RATH, WILLIAM BERRI, CHAS. W. PRICE, 
 
 GEO. F. LVON, M. P. WILDER, A. E. PEARSALL, T. H. EVANS. 
 
BOSTON PRESS CLUB: 
 
 J. C. Morse, J. S. Keeler, W. C. Grout, Herald; W. V. Alexander, Transcript; 
 E. J. Carpenter, Advertiser ; William B. Smart, Post; Thos. F. Anderson, Globe. 
 Mr. Anderson, though a member of the Governing Board of the League, was 
 unfortunately compelled to leave the party at Chicago. 
 Guests Miss Maria Parloa, Miss Helen Chamberlain. 
 
 BUFFALO PRESS CLUB: 
 
 Byron R. Newton, News ; Eugene J. Fleury, Express. 
 
 GERMAN PRESS CLUB, NEW YORK: 
 
 Dr. John Friederich, Americanische Schweizer Zeitung. 
 
 NEW YORK WOMANS' PRESS CLUB: 
 
 Miss M. V. Lewis. Miss Lewis joined the party in San Francisco and accompanied 
 it on the three days' trip to Del Monte and San Jose. 
 
 CHICAGO GERMAN PRESS CLUB : 
 
 Emil Hoechster and wife. 
 
 CLEVELAND WOMEN'S PRESS CLUB: 
 
 Mrs. Elroy M. Avery. 
 
 GRAND RAPIDS PRESS CLUB: 
 
 E. B. Fisher. W. B. Weston, of the Governing Board, joined at San Francisco. 
 
 CANTON, O., PRESS CLUB: 
 
 T. K. Albaugh, Democrat, and Mrs. Judge Albaugh. 
 
 MILWAUKEE GERMAN PRESS CLUB: 
 
 Julius Muehle and wife. 
 
 BALTIMORE JOURNALISTS' CLUB: 
 
 L. R. Meekins, Vice-President, and Mrs. Meekins ; John S. Stillman, Baltimore 
 American. 
 
 N. E. WOMEN'S PRESS ASSOCIATION, BOSTON : 
 
 Mrs. Lulu S. Upham, Gazette. 
 
 PACIFIC WOMEN'S PRESS ASSOCIATION, SAX FRANCISCO : 
 
 Miss A. E. Knapp, Morning Call ; Mrs. E. T. Y. Parkhurst, California Magazine. 
 
PITTSBURGH PRESS CLUB: 
 
 President T. J. Keenan, Jr., Press; Geo. H. Welshons. Times ; Win. H. 
 Davis, Commercial Gazette ; L. D. Bancroft, Dispatch. 
 Guests Mrs. Welshons, Mrs. Cameron, Miss Keenan. 
 
 PHILADELPHIA PRESS CLUB : 
 
 T. Henry Martin, Item, and wife. 
 
 READING PRESS CLUB: 
 
 John B. Dampman, Herald, and wife. 
 
 SYRACUSE PRESS CLUB : 
 
 E. H. O'Hara, Herald; S. G. Lapham, of the Governing Board, Courier. 
 
 SOUTHERN R. I. PRESS CLUB : 
 
 Irving Watson, H. F. True. 
 
 ST. PAUL PRESS CLUB : 
 
 Julius A. Schmahl, News, joined at Chicago ; C. H. Lineau, San Francisco. 
 
 NAT'L ORG'N GERMAN-AMERICAN JOURNALISTS AND AUTHORS: 
 
 Arthur Koenig, Milwaukee, joined at Chicago ; M. Greenblatt, San Francisco. 
 
 ILLINOIS WOMEN'S PRESS ASSOCIATION : 
 
 Mrs. Frances E. Owens, Miss Belle L. Gorton, Miss Mary Allen West. 
 
 TOLEDO PRESS CLUB: 
 
 P. C. Boyle, Commercial, wife and daughter; M. P. Murphy, Bee. 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO PRESS CLUB: 
 
 Hugh Hume, T. T. Williams, M. H. de Young, H. M. Tod, Theo. F. Bonnet. 
 
 After the hurried farewells had been uttered, the train, at 
 10.30 A. M., drew out from the depot, seven Wagner palace 
 coaches bearing a hundred persons with hearts full of cheerful 
 anticipation, and leaving on the platform a large group of envying 
 friends. The train, specially provided for this excursion, and the 
 first of its kind that ever crossed the continent from Atlantic to 
 Pacific, deserves detailed description, which will be given at a later 
 period in this narrative. Of the journey to Chicago, that being 
 
an affair of every-day experience, little need be said, except that it 
 was one of uninterrupted jollity. The view through the windows 
 of the storm that raged continuously, and the fleeting glimpses of 
 the snow-enveloped landscape, only served to heighten the sense of 
 enjoyment as the luxuriously appointed Wagner palace cars were 
 whirled smoothly and swiftly along the shores of the Hudson and 
 Mohawk Rivers. At Albany, Syracuse and Buffalo, guests and 
 delegates from local clubs and remoter points joined the party. 
 Canada was traversed in the night, but the steadily increasing force 
 of the storm caused so great a delay that instead of reaching 
 
 THE SPECIAL WAGNER TRAIN CROSSING THE NIAGARA RIVER. 
 
 Chicago at 9.45 on Thursday morning, as had been expected, it 
 was after three o'clock in the afternoon when the train pulled up 
 at that city. 
 
 Chicago was found to be particularly windy that day, and, 
 owing to the storm, it was also in a nebulous condition that 
 effectually concealed it from view. A special train was in waiting, 
 under charge of a committee representing the Chicago Press Club 
 and the Exposition management, with Major Moses P. Handy in 
 charge, and the newspaper guests were speedily whisked to the 
 Exposition grounds, on the shore of Lake Michigan, where they 
 
THE WIVES OF THE NEW YORK DELEGATES. 
 
 MRS. CHAS. W. PRICE, MRS. WILLIAM EFKKI, 
 
 MRS. T. H. EVANS, MRS. J. I. CHARLOUIS, MRS. T. P. McEi.KATii 
 
 MRS. G. F. LVON, MRS. W. H. WOKRALL. 
 
received a mass of valuable information, verbally and in printed 
 shape, regarding the majestic buildings which they were told were 
 in progress of construction all around them. But of those building 
 operations hardly anything could be seen rain, snow, sleet and 
 smoke effectually covering them to the manifest chagrin of the 
 local committee, who were indefatigable in their efforts to make 
 amends for the shortcomings, or overdoings, of the elements. The 
 unavoidable delay the travelers had experienced was disappoint- 
 ing, not only on account of curtailing the projected visit to the 
 city, but by its interference with the arrangements that had been 
 made for the party's entertainment by the committee. However, 
 the only thing to do was to make the best of the situation and to 
 see and learn as much as possible in the short time allowed them, 
 and, accordingly, when the tour of the Exposition grounds was 
 reported to have been completed, the delegates were whirled by 
 rail back to Chicago, and then by carriage to the Herald Building, 
 where the editor and proprietor, Col. Scott, had an elegant 
 luncheon waiting for them. After this repast, the first, by the 
 way, of a long series of similar entertainments, the visitors pro- 
 ceeded to inspect the splendid newspaper establishment in which 
 they had received such a cordial welcome, beginning with the 
 composing and stereotyping rooms on the sixth floor, and ending 
 with the press room in the basement. The general verdict was 
 one of unqualified admiration, the building being, probably, as Col. 
 Scott claimed, the most complete newspaper office in America, 
 and therefore in the world. While still in the composing room, 
 the proprietor addressed a few words of welcome to his guests, to 
 which Mr. Keenan responded in terms of appropriate compliment. 
 The compositors of the office and the guests were attentive 
 listeners. It was at this point that the speech-making feature of 
 the journey received an impulse that kept it in active operation 
 
 24 
 
by day and night for the following twenty-four days, and across 
 fully eight thousand miles of American soil. Mr. Keenan was 
 followed by Dr. Bedloe, of Philadelphia, then recently returned on 
 leave from his consular duties in Amoy, China, Miss Kate Field, 
 of Washington, Mr. J. Seaver Page, of New York, Mrs. Frank 
 Leslie-Wilde, Mr. William Wilde, of London, England, and 
 Messrs. Berri, Evans, Wilder and Pearsall, of the New York 
 Press Club. On parting with the hospitable host of the Herald 
 
 the Chicago Press Club was visited. 
 Col. J. M. Bundy welcomed the party, 
 expressing regret for the detention that 
 had disarranged the Club's plans for enter- 
 tainment, and urging a repetition of the 
 visit under more propitious skies on the 
 return Eastward. The president of the 
 club, Wm. A. Taylor, in a few friendly 
 words, wished the delegates a safe 
 and pleasant journey to the Pacific 
 
 slope and home again ; and brief addresses were likewise made 
 by Messrs. Hall and Almy, of the Chicago Press Club, which 
 were replied to by Messrs. Keenan and Foster Coates. The dele- 
 gates were then invited to attend the theatres as guests of the 
 Chicago Press Club, which some accepted, others preferring to 
 while away the evening at the Auditorium, where the annual 
 Charity Ball was to be held. At 11.30 the cars were again 
 taken. Mr. Roach, of the New York Central Railroad, was 
 compelled to leave the party at this point in order to return to 
 New York. The circumstance caused general regret, but Mr. 
 Roach's mantle fell gracefully upon the shoulders of General 
 Western Passenger Agent W. B. Jerome, of the same company, 
 who joined the party at Chicago and remained with it in charge 
 
 THE AUDITORIUM CHICAGO. 
 
of all railroad arrangements until the train reached Detroit on 
 its return, twenty-three days later. 
 
 Friday morning found us speeding merrily along on the 
 Chicago & North Western Railroad. The sky was grey and the 
 sunshine had a chilled look, especially after one of the train hands 
 had passed through the cars with the information that the mercury 
 registered ten degrees below zero. We were now doing some 
 fast traveling. The run of 503 miles from Chicago to Omaha 
 was made in thirty-five minutes less than the schedule time arranged 
 for our special train, and was one of the very fastest ever made on 
 that road. The country was a level treeless prairie and elicited 
 great admiration from the tenderfeet of the excursion who had 
 never been consciously before on a genuine prairie. The educa- 
 tional feature of the journey was thus entered upon at the rate 
 of between thirty and forty miles an hour. The forenoon was 
 passed by the ladies in the inter- 
 change of various social and sociable 
 attentions, while the men for the 
 most part devoted themselves to 
 exploring and testing the varied re- 
 sources of the buffet car. At 2 i'. M., 
 after crossing the Missouri at Council 
 Bluffs, the train pulled up at Omaha, 
 where a joint committee of the 
 Omaha Board of Trade and the 
 Press Club were in waiting at the 
 depot with carriages, and a few min- 
 utes later, after escaping from a 
 
 photographer's hands, the delegates were standing in the spacious 
 court of the Omaha Bee office, listening to cheering words of wel- 
 come from the enterprising owner of the establishment, Col. Edward 
 
 26 
 
 
 B 
 
 lfMJIJ^ 
 
 Mflf^ffifei 
 
 THK OMA1I 
 
Rosevvater. The building in which we were entertained is claimed 
 to cover more square feet of surface than any other newspaper 
 edifice in the world, and it certainly is a splendid as well as a 
 spacious establishment. It is built of granite, and is eight stories 
 high, enclosing a large square court covered over with glass, thus 
 insuring light to every apartment. From its lofty roof an extended 
 view was obtained of the city, which impressed all who inspected it 
 from that point as being the home of a remarkably enterprising and 
 energetic people. Broad, well paved streets were lined with rows of 
 magnificent structures, and traversed in all directions with cable and 
 electric railroads. On every side were bustle and business activity. 
 The welcoming addresses having been appropriately responded to by 
 the travelers, the entire party were rapidly raised by elevator to 
 the Press Club rooms on the upper floor of the building, where an 
 hour was charmingly spent in conversation. A tidy lunch was served, 
 to which ample justice was done, and the punch that washed it down 
 is still fondly talked of by the New York delegates. At four o'clock 
 we re-embarked and were under way again towards the Pacific. That 
 evening on the train was marked by one of the characteristic incidents 
 of the trip, a feature that probably had never before had its counter- 
 part. After dinner Mr. J. C. Yager, of the Wagner Company, had 
 the waiters remove all the tables from the dining car and replace them 
 with camp chairs, produced from some place of storage whose location 
 was one of the many permanent mysteries of the journey. Everybody 
 thereupon repaired to that car and spent the evening in a most enjoy- 
 able manner, listening to addresses and recitations by Mr. J. Seaver 
 Page, Foster Coates, Marshall P. Wilder, Mr. Willie Wilde, and to 
 some excellent vocalization, of which our musical leader, Pearsall, 
 with the stentorian lungs, was the manager and conductor. 
 
 What the visiting party did not learn concerning the City 
 of Denver, the Queen City of the Plains, is not likely to be 
 
 27 
 
acquired by newspaper writers of the present generation. By the 
 admirable arrangements of the Committee of Reception an 
 opportunity was afforded the Eastern travelers to do up that city 
 in exhaustive style, or as nearly so as was practicable within the 
 compass of a single day and evening. The train arrived at the 
 Denver depot at 10.35 A. M. on Saturday, January gth, and the 
 excursionists were welcomed by representatives of the local 
 newspapers, the Chamber of Commerce, the Real Estate Exchange, 
 and the railroad companies that center at that important city. 
 The strong bond of interest existing between the manipulators of 
 rates and traffics, pools, and short and long hauls, was shown by 
 the warm interest taken in the excursionists by the railroad men. 
 Among those who greeted the newcomers were General Ticket 
 Agent Ady, of the Union Pacific ; S. K. Hooper, General 
 Passenger Agent of the Rio Grande ; Assistant Passenger Agent 
 Wadleigh, of the same line ; C. G. Burkhardt, of the North- 
 western ; City Passenger Agent Erbb, of the Union Pacific ; 
 Commodore Trufant, Superintendent of the Union Depot ; J. P. 
 Flynn, C. H. Titus, Editor Arkins and others. Members of the 
 Chamber of Commerce and the Denver Real Estate Exchange 
 were: S. M. Allen, Biddle Reeves, R. E. Gurley, B. L. Sholtz, 
 John Crawford and L. M. Townsend, of the Interior Land and 
 Improvement Company, an old newspaper man of New York. 
 The Reception Committee had everything arranged on a broad 
 scale for the visitors' entertainment. Carriages in abundance were 
 in waiting at the depot and the guests were driven rapidly to the 
 elegant Metropole Hotel. Two or three hours were given to the 
 ladies to rest in the sumptuous apartments of that establishment, 
 while their male escorts visited the newspaper offices and took 
 in the sights generally, after which, fortified with a hearty lunch, 
 the carriages were resumed and the procession wound its way 
 
 28 
 
THE HOTEL METROPOLE DENVER. 
 
 through the long, level, unpaved, but smooth, well shaded and 
 watered streets of Denver, and past all the noteworthy buildings, 
 public and private, of that wonderful city, located in 1858 as a 
 
 mining camp in a desolate prairie 
 region just this side of the shadows 
 of the Rocky Mountains, which loom 
 up about fourteen miles to the West- 
 ward. Some of the enormous smelting 
 works on the outskirts of the city were 
 also visited, and an insight was gained 
 of the subtle processes by which rough 
 ores are transmuted into precious metals. 
 Dinner followed, after which the entire 
 party visited the two theatres then in 
 operation in the city, one at the 
 Metropole Hotel and the other the 
 splendid Tabor Grand Opera House, 
 
 and at the termination of the performances they were transported 
 back to their train, and at i A. M. were again speeding Westward, 
 now on the tracks of the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad. 
 
 Leaving Denver about i A. M., the train three hours later 
 reached Colorado Springs, where, however, it stopped for only a 
 few moments. It had been the expectation of the Pike's Peak 
 Press Club and the Chamber of Commerce that the visitors 
 would be permitted to remain there for a short time to be shown 
 the sights of the locality, but the delay could not be afforded. 
 However, copies of the morning papers were left on the train, 
 and before the breakfast hour was over all the passengers were 
 aware that they had passed through " the Sanitarium City of the 
 West." A similar fact was impressed upon their minds at several 
 other places they visited during the trip. 
 
The ride from Denver was refreshing to exhausted humanity. 
 Sight-seeing was already beginning to pall upon the senses. When 
 the party awoke on the morning of Sunday, January loth, they 
 found themselves plunging into the very heart of the Rocky Mount- 
 ains. At seven o'clock they were all routed out from their 
 comfortable berths to inspect the wonderful pathway nature had 
 riven through the rocky barrier that forms the continent's back- 
 bone, the Grand Canyon of the Arkansas, better known to tourists 
 as the "Royal Gorge." Here, between majestic walls two 
 thousand feet in height, wonderful engineering skill had contrived 
 a roadway that seemed to be carved for the special purpose through 
 the solid rock. Gaxing upwards to the opening in the rift, far 
 overhead, that seemed to touch the heavens, one felt like 
 exclaiming with the Psalmist: "Lift up your heads, O ye gates; 
 and be ye lifted up, ye everlasting doors ; and the King of glory 
 shall come in." At a point where the Arkansas River is spanned 
 by a bridge suspended by iron braces from the overhanging cliffs 
 on either side, the train was halted, and the passengers were 
 invited to step out into the freezing cold to be photographed 
 by an artist whom Passenger Agent Jerome had enticed for that 
 purpose from Denver. Their pictures being instantly frozen fast 
 to the negative, the party held a brief Service of Song, under 
 the leadership of Mr. Alfred E. Pearsall, of the New York 
 Press Club, " Our Own," as he is familiarly known by his associates 
 in that organization, who, climbing to a giddy height on the rocky 
 wall of the canyon, sang with power and sweetness " America," in 
 which he was joined with vigorous earnestness by the entire 
 party. Probably that was the first Sabbath service ever held in 
 that remote and hardly accessible chasm. Under way again, the 
 train labored up a steep grade, seeking the crest of the Rocky 
 Mountains. It found it, too, for at three in the afternoon 
 
 30 
 
THE 1'RESS CLUB TARTY STOIM'INC To HE i'HOTOGK AP!IK1> IN THE CANYON OF THE ARKANSAS, SUNDAY, JANUARY IOTH. 
 
Leadville was reached, at an elevation of ten thousand, two 
 hundred feet above the level of the sea, a fact which speedily 
 made itself apparent to lungs with weak pumping power attach- 
 ments. The visitors having heard much of that famous mining 
 camp were deeply interested in such portion of it as was not 
 hidden from their view by the deep snow. Several of the towns- 
 people being at the depot with sleighs, an impromptu invitation 
 was extended to the visitors to take a short ride, which was par- 
 ticipated in with hilarious satisfaction. After leaving Leadville and 
 
 ' 
 
 GI.ENWOOI) STRINGS, Col."., WHERE THE PRESS LEAGUE PARTY BATHED IN A SNOW STORM, 
 
 JANUARY IOTII, 1892. 
 
 surmounting the Rocky Mountains at Tennessee Pass, at an eleva- 
 tion of ten thousand, four hundred and eighteen feet, the train 
 resumed its rapid pace on the down grade, and the run that 
 afternoon through the sublime canyon of the Grand River was a 
 most enjoyable experience. Shortly after dark the train stopped at 
 
TIIK CANYON OF TIIK GRAND, COLORADO. 
 
Glenvvood Springs. A blinding snowstorm prevailed, through 
 which the party was conveyed in sleighs about a quarter of a mile 
 to a luxurious hotel, resplendent with electric lights, and furnished 
 in the most approved style of modern artistic decoration. Here 
 was enjoyed one of the most remarkable experiences of the 
 entire journey. The hotel stands on the edge of a pool of 
 steaming hot water supplied from a mineral spring whose 
 temperature is one hundred and twenty degrees, and its outpour 
 two thousand gallons per minute. In the bathing pool at the 
 house the temperature of the water is considerably reduced, and 
 the gentlemen of the party, donning bathing suits, plunged in 
 for a warm out-of-door bath, while the ladies on an upper 
 balcony, protected by umbrellas from the storm, threw snow-balls 
 at the bathers. It really was a very remarkable sight. The night 
 was inky dark, the snow was falling almost in a single sheet, 
 and the electric lights barely penetrated the misty atmosphere to 
 reveal the heads of the men swimming in the steaming pool. 
 Every now and then the snow and cold air combined would 
 induce the bathers to wholly submerge themselves, but their heads 
 would quickly reappear and in a moment would be again incrusted 
 with snow. The proprietor of the establishment and the physician 
 resident there had given full assurances that bathing under those 
 incongruous conditions was entirely harmless. The water was 
 strongly impregnated with salt and sulphur, and open air bathing 
 is practiced there at all times of the day and in all seasons of 
 the year. The participants in the bath, after resuming their 
 traveling attire, found the effect to be rather exhilarating than 
 otherwise, and none of them derived any ill consequence from 
 what would in any other place in the world seem to be a reckless 
 defiance of hygiene and common sense. An hour and a half 
 were most agreeably passed in visiting this remarkable point and 
 
 34 
 
exploring, in spite of the darkness and storm, the medicina 
 springs with which it is surrounded. Returning to the train the 
 berths were sought at an early hour, excepting by a few of the 
 more devoutly inclined, who sat up a while longer singing hymns. 
 Thus was passed the first Sunday of the journey. Glenwood, we 
 learned from our railroad companions, is situated in a " park " 
 two thousand, two hundred feet above the sea-level, protected on 
 every side by lofty mountains, and holding within its limits a 
 series of hot sulphur springs bursting out of the mountain rocks 
 forming lakes of large proportions, and making natural bathing 
 places which by artificial means have been rendered very con- 
 venient for the use of man. This hot sulphur water, used as a drink 
 or to bathe in, has been found very efficacious as a remedy in many 
 diseases, and the volume of water is so great that there seems to 
 be no limit to the extent to which it may be utilized, or to the number 
 of people who may partake of or be benefited by it. Above the 
 springs, as they rush out of the rocks, are large open caves which, 
 somewhere within^ their recesses, must have communication with 
 the hot sulphur water below, as they are filled with hot 
 sulphurous vapor or steam, which rushes out from their mouths 
 in dense clouds. One may enter these caves, divest one's self of 
 clothing, penetrate as far as the heat will allow, and partake 
 of a natural hot sulphur vapor bath such as can be had nowhere 
 else in the world, and which is claimed to be of great remedial or 
 curative value for many complaints that the human frame is 
 afflicted with. The Press League excursionists did not penetrate 
 the mysteries of the locality, further than the pools at the hotel. 
 The region is said to be full of game, and the trout fishing 
 superb, so every delegate in the party determined in his mind 
 to wander out that way again, some time, at a more genial 
 season of the year. 
 
 35 
 
On Monday morning, January iith, Salt Lake was reached 
 at eleven o'clock. A delegation of officials, citizens and news- 
 paper men from Salt Lake City met the party at Bingham 
 Junction in a special train, under the charge of J. H. Bennett, 
 General Passenger Agent of the Rio Grande & Western Railroad. 
 Some time previous to the advent of these hospitable gentlemen 
 there had been placed on the train, at a point one hundred 
 and fifty miles east of Salt Lake City, copies of the Salt Lake 
 City Herald of that date, and cards of welcome, on which was 
 recited the programme of the entertainment prepared for the 
 passengers during their visit in the City of Saints. On arriving 
 at the depot the visitors were taken in carriages and stages and 
 many in sleighs, as the snow was quite deep and still falling, and 
 were driven to the Knutsford Hotel, where a brief interval was 
 allowed them for resting in some of the three hundred rooms 
 which this fine hotel contains. The party was increased at this 
 point by the addition to its numbers of Mrs. Young, a very 
 lively, Boston-looking young lady, 
 who enjoyed the double honor 
 of being the grand-daughter of 
 Brigham Young, deceased, and the 
 divorced wife of one of that 
 gentleman's sons. After the dust 
 of travel had been removed, the 
 visitors were taken in carriages 
 throughout the city and were 
 shown all the attractions of the 
 place, alighting only to visit 
 the Temple and the Tabernacle. 
 
 Owing to the incomplete condition of the former, it was not con- 
 sidered safe to enter it on the slippery planks that led 
 
 UIIKKK \VK WKRK ENTERTAINED IN 
 SALT LAKE CITY. 
 
SOME OK THE BUILDINGS AND LOCALITIES VISITED AND SEEN IN SALT LAKE CITY. 
 
from the sidewalks. This building is, next to the magnificent 
 St. Patrick's Cathedral in New York, the grandest and most costly 
 ecclesiastical structure in the United States. Begun in 1853, it 
 was said to have cost nearly seven million dollars when, on April 
 6th, 1892, the last stone was laid, on the thirty-ninth anniversary 
 of the laying of the corner stone. The edifice is two hundred 
 feet long, a hundred feet wide and a hundred feet high, with four 
 towers, one at each corner, two hundred and twenty feet in height. 
 But figures give only an imperfect suggestion of its great size. 
 The walls are ten feet thick, and the massiveness and solidity of 
 its construction insure its defiance of the ravages of time for ages 
 to come. It is built wholly of snow-white granite, and, standing 
 on one of the loftiest points in the city, it can be seen for many 
 miles up and down the valley. The Temple is not intended to 
 be a house of worship, but will be used wholly for conducting the 
 ceremonial rites of the Mormon priesthood. The Tabernacle in 
 the same square is one of the architectural curiosities of the world. 
 It looks like a vast terrapin-back or half of a prodigious egg-shell 
 cut in two lengthwise, and is built wholly of glass, iron and 
 stone. It is two hundred and fifty feet long, a hundred and fifty 
 feet wide and a hundred feet high in the center of the roof, which 
 is a single mighty arch, unsupported by pillar or post, and is said 
 to have but one counterpart on the globe. The walls are twelve 
 feet thick, and there are twenty huge double doors for entrance 
 and exit. In the same enclosure is still another spacious struc- 
 ture, in which, we were informed, were held the regular church 
 services of the Mormons. It is called Assembly Hall, is of white 
 granite, of Gothic architecture and has seats for twenty-five 
 hundred. The ceiling is elaborately frescoed with scenes from 
 Mormon history, including the delivery of the golden plates, 
 containing the New Revelation, to the Prophet Joseph Smith by 
 
 38 
 
the Angel Moroni. The Hall contains a superb organ of native 
 woods and home workmanship. The visitors received these facts 
 on faith, as they did not enter the Hall. But the peculiar 
 architectural features of the Tabernacle were thoroughly exploited, 
 including the verification of that enormous structure's acoustic 
 properties. The seating capacity of the building is said to be four- 
 teen thousand. The visitors being stationed at the end furthest 
 from the raised platform where the vast organ stands, one of the 
 
 ASSEMBLY HALL, THK TABERNACLK AND THE NEW MORMON TEMPLE IN SALT LAKE CITY. 
 
 local committee, enjoining silence, dropped a common pin from his 
 hand on a board where he was standing. The sound of that tiny 
 piece of metal striking the board was distinctly heard by every 
 person at the distant end of the apartment. Similar experiments 
 were made by whispering across the room, the voice being in like 
 manner as distinctly audible as is the case in the world renowned 
 Whispering Gallery of St. Paul's Church in London. Leaving 
 that interesting place, the guests were driven past the Tithing 
 
 39 
 
House, the Beehive House and the Lion House, half hidden by 
 the high surrounding wall, the residence of the late Brigham 
 Young, and the residences of eighteen of his numerous wives ; 
 experience evidently having shown him that domestic felicity, when 
 essayed in such off-hand fashion, could only be approximately 
 achieved by keeping his spouses in separate residences. The 
 ladies of the party manifested a decided interest in the evidences 
 of the peculiar institution which has given Mormondom its 
 notoriety, but they were wise enough to use great discretion in 
 the inquiries they made of the gentlemen who acted as escorts on 
 the occasion. On one point the entire party were unanimously 
 agreed, and that was in admiration of the beauty of Salt Lake 
 City, its wide streets and its picturesque location in the mountain- 
 framed valley. The season of the year, however, was not pro- 
 pitious to seeing Salt Lake City at its greatest advantage, and 
 the guests were repeatedly invited to come again later in the year, 
 when, it was said, the whole city would bear the appearance of a 
 luxuriant flower garden. The place is rapidly being transferred 
 into Gentile hands, from those of the Mormons, who founded it 
 under Brigham Young in the summer of 1847. As is fitting to 
 a city built in a vast wilderness, it was laid out on a scale of 
 majestic proportions, the streets being one hundred and thirty-two 
 feet in width and the blocks comprising each ten square acres, the 
 distance from street to street being everywhere just six hundred 
 and sixty-six and two-thirds feet. On each side of every thorough- 
 fare is a wide ditch of running water from the mountains the 
 irrigating system, that at great cost of labor and money converted 
 the arid waste on which the Saints planted their settlement into 
 a latter day Paradise. Every house seems to be surrounded by 
 a lawn and garden or orchard. But if the beauty of the city, 
 its possibility, in fact, was due to Mormon perseverance in the 
 
past, its present development is wholly owing to the spirit of 
 modern progress which has actuated it under Gentile control 
 within the last decade. Since 1880 the population has increased 
 from twenty-one thousand to nearly fifty-five thousand persons, 
 whose wealth per capita is said to be greater than that of any 
 other community in the United States. Think of a town on the 
 backbone of the continent possessing sixty-five miles of electric 
 street railways ! 
 
 Returning to the hospitable Knutsford Hotel, a fine lunch was 
 partaken of, after which the visitors passed the time in looking 
 around on their own account. The newspaper offices, the Tribune 
 and the Herald, were visited in force. Many of the ladies 
 repaired to their apartments to rest. Quite a number of the 
 travelers, however, accepted an invitation from the Union Pacific 
 Railroad to make a trip in a special train to Garfield Beach to 
 get a near-by view of Salt Lake. Later in the day an excursion 
 was also made to the recently discovered natural gas wells some 
 miles out of the city. It was so late 'in the day that it was dark 
 when the wells were reached. The spectacle, however, was the 
 more brilliant on that account, the Gas Company having run out 
 a line of pipe from one of the wells, so that there were flambeaux 
 at various points along the path leading from the cars, the 
 flames in some cases reaching to a height of fully fifty feet. The 
 Pittsburgh visitors had an opportunity at this point of displaying 
 their familiarity with natural gas, and had there been any Chicago 
 representatives in the party, they, too, might have enjoyed a 
 similar privilege. It was 7.45 v. M. when the excursion train of 
 six cars returned to the city, and the passengers made a bee line 
 from the depot to the Tabernacle, where a grand concert had 
 been announced to be given for their special benefit. The Choral 
 Society of Salt Lake City and the choir of the Tabernacle, 
 
numbering jointly five hundred voices, officiated under the direction 
 of Conductor Stephens. Prof. Radcliffe performed on the magnifi- 
 cent organ, said to have cost $100,000 and to be the second 
 largest in the world. It is fifty-eight feet high and contains two 
 thousand six hundred and forty-eight pipes. A delightful 
 programme was performed by the monster combination of local 
 talent, and the visitors likewise took a hand in the entertainment 
 by pressing Mr. Pearsall into giving one of his excellent 
 recitations, which was followed by Marshall P. Wilder, who 
 amused the audience with a series of droll anecdotes. This 
 circumstance is the more significant from the fact that it was the 
 first time that the Tabernacle had been lent to such purely 
 secular uses as those represented by the two gentlemen from 
 New York, and it was understood afterward that we had just 
 anticipated the date when, by an edict of the rulers of the 
 church, the edifice could never again be similarly used. 
 
 Messrs. Wilder and Pearsall were accordingly congratulated 
 upon being personally concerned in an epoch in the ecclesiastical 
 history of Mormondom. The whole affair was exceedingly enjoy- 
 able, outside of its qualified historic significance. Returning to the 
 hotel, after an agreeable collation, a brilliant reception was given 
 to the visitors, which was participated in by most of the promi- 
 nent citizens Gentile and Mormon of the place. The guests 
 were gathered in a spacious dining hall of the hotel, and Judge 
 O. W. Powers, of Illinois, who occupied the chair for the even- 
 ing, delivered a charming welcoming address. He was followed 
 by Gov. Thomas, after whom followed brief and telling addresses 
 by the President of the League, Mr. T. J. Keenan ; Judge 
 Goodwin, in behalf of the "Rocky Mountain Press"; Kate Field, 
 in behalf of " Woman as a Business Man "; the Hon. George Q. 
 Cannon, the distinguished Mormon leader, who, as a pioneer 
 
 42 
 
printer, spoke for the "Hand-Cart Brigade"; Mr. Keeler, of 
 Boston, in response to the toast, "The Salt Lake of the East"; 
 the Hon. W. H. King, for "One of Utah's Best Crops"; 
 
 Ex-Gov. West, as speeding 
 the departing guests; Mr. 
 Coates, of New York, on 
 behalf of Press Clubs gen- 
 erally, and Fred. Simon, on 
 behalf of Utah in the con- 
 
 Miss KATK FIELD, OF WASHINGTON, I). C. 
 
 crete and abstract. In addition to 
 
 the speeches of the evening, some 
 
 charming vocalism was rendered by 
 
 Miss Lillie Snyder; Mrs. Frank 
 
 Leslie repeated a stirring poem on 
 
 the onward progress of "Columbus"; 
 
 a recitation was given by Miss Elita Proctor Otis, of New York, 
 
 and a series of laughable stories were told by Marshall P. Wilder, 
 
 who, with the recollection still strong on him of his performance 
 
 MRS. FRANK I.KSI.IK. 
 
 43 
 
at the Temple, was in cheerful vein, and was repeatedly recalled to 
 the front. The evening passed quickly in that delightful manner, 
 and it was one o'clock in the morning when the party again found 
 themselves on their train, speeding yet further westward towards 
 the Pacific. 
 
 Brief glimpses were obtained at intervals of the Great Salt 
 Lake as the train swept along its southern shore, and at 3 A. M. 
 on January i2th our hospitable hosts of the Rio Grande & 
 Western Railroad were bidden a reluctant farewell as we were 
 switched on to the Southern Pacific Railroad, in whose charge we 
 were to remain for the following twelve days. The entire day 
 was passed in overcoming the Sierra Nevadas, and when evening 
 arrived and we were being whirled through the canyons and the 
 snow-sheds of that majestic range of mountains, the whole party 
 were assembled in the dining car to listen to the reading of a 
 " newspaper," the several contributions to which were prepared 
 during the day by some of the more enterprising of the delegates, 
 under the editorial supervision of Mr. Foster Coates. It was the 
 first evening paper ever brought out in that section of the conti- 
 nent, and probably nowhere else on the continent has a new 
 journalistic enterprise ever made such rapid headway. The next 
 morning found us in Auburn, California. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 CONVENTION DAYS. 
 
 JANUARY 13-20, 1892. 
 
 T* AUBURN we were suddenly introduced to 
 California, and to say that our introduction was 
 a revelation to the entire party would be far from 
 exaggeration. Placer County, in which we now 
 were, is called the "Gateway" to the Golden State. 
 With the snowdrifts in full view around us and 
 the Arctic cold of the Sierra Nevadas still fresh in our 
 memories, we seemed, on that warm, sunshiny morning, 
 to have passed through the gateway that leads directly from 
 perpetual winter to everlasting summer. Here, indeed, was the 
 complete realization of the poet's ideal Auburn, 
 
 "Where smiling spring its earliest visit paid, 
 And parting summer's lingering blooms delayed." 
 
 The train passing through an immense arch of oranges and flowers 
 drew up at a depot resplendent with floral decorations. Among 
 a variety of devices the word " Welcome " greeted us above the 
 platform, framed with golden oranges. The decorative possibilities 
 of the orange were visible at nearly every house in the place. A 
 committee of citizens was on hand with carriages, and the party 
 was conveyed to two hotels, the Putnam and the Freeman House, 
 where excellent breakfasts were discussed, which, as we had arisen 
 from our Wagner couches at an unusually early hour, were 
 particularly welcome. The champagne cocktails of native vintage 
 
 45 
 
that were set before us as a preliminary to the meal might, under 
 such circumstances, have prompted a responsive thrill in the heart 
 of the most unmitigated apostle of Prohibition. But the magnificent 
 flowers and the decorations of fruit with which the tables and 
 apartments overflowed, were, next to the charming ladies 
 who gave the grace of their presence to welcome us to 
 California, the most 
 striking features of that 
 brilliant and memor- 
 able morning. Break- 
 fast finished, and two 
 or three short greet- 
 ings having been inter- 
 changed by the orators 
 on both sides, to car- 
 riage again, to visit the 
 Citrus Fair in " The 
 Pavilion," a newly erec- 
 ted theatre, where the 
 reality of that land of 
 sun and flowers, in 
 which the fruit harvest 
 reaches from January 
 to December, was dis- 
 played in a manner none of the visitors had ever dreamed of. 
 Besides apples, pears and plums, in great abundance and variety, 
 oranges, lemons, grapes, figs, dates, olives, almonds and other tropical 
 
 fruits and products were massed about the building in tasteful 
 
 %f 
 shapes and in vast quantities, the growth of that section of Northern 
 
 California comprising ten counties which a few years ago were 
 hardly known of as agriculturally capable. Thirty-six varieties of 
 
 4 6 
 
 SACRAMENTO S ORANGE ARCH AT AUBURN, CAL. 
 
oranges, and six of lemons, all large, highly colored and well 
 rounded fruit, constituted two only of the host of displays on 
 exhibition there, that gladdened all the senses. Among the varied 
 devices, a conspicuous one was a monster horn of plenty, made 
 entirely of oranges, and pouring from its capacious mouth a 
 stream of luscious fruits, the exhibit of Sutter County. 
 
 CORNUCOPIA OK ORANGES SUTTER COUNTY S EXHIBIT AT THE AUBURN CITRUS KAIR. 
 
 At Auburn, also, we discovered that we had reached the longi- 
 tude of comparative magnitudes, a geographical peculiarity which we 
 were not suffered to lose sight of while we remained on the 
 Pacific slope. The precise relation of Placer County, California, 
 in respect to size, to the State of Massachusetts, or to the whole 
 of the eastern States, or to the rest of the earth, has escaped the 
 writer's memory, but the proportion calculator had got us into 
 his clutches, and we speedily learned to regard his fertility of 
 
 47 
 
imagination and ingenuity of combination with unspeakable awe. 
 From the Pavilion we were driven to a point near the town 
 named Aeolia Heights, where among trees and vineyards, on a 
 commanding eminence, Col. W. Hamilton, of Sacramento, has a 
 charming lodge fitted with exquisite taste, and overlooking a vast 
 wooded gorge, at the bottom of which runs the American River. 
 It was a landscape of unsurpassed loveliness. But we had not 
 yet reached our destination, so at 10.30 A. M., after brief speech- 
 making and cordial hand-shaking, we resumed our journey. 
 Every member of the party will carry enduring recollection of 
 the reluctance with which we parted from the sweet, half-tropical 
 vision that had been presented to our eyes that morning on our 
 entrance into California. 
 
 On reaching Auburn our train was increased by the addition 
 of tWo remarkably well stocked cars containing a delegation 
 headed by Mr. M. H. de Young, and comprising President Hugh 
 Hume, Gen. John F. Sheehan and Gen. John S. McComb, with 
 a large party of lively volunteers, sent to welcome us on behalf of 
 the San Francisco Press Club. From that moment until we left 
 San Francisco, one week afterward, we were in the hands of that 
 Club as its guests, and never in newspaper history was royal 
 hospitality more lavishly or more gracefully bestowed. The 
 correctness of this statement will develop as we proceed. Stopping 
 for an hour at Sacramento, we were greeted with a fresh 
 surprise, the San Francisco newspapers of that date, particularly 
 the Examiner and the Chronicle, having prepared a welcome for 
 us in the shape of special dispatches containing the latest news 
 from the home of almost every member of the party. We 
 arrived in San Francisco about four in the afternoon, and soon 
 were snugly ensconced in the Baldwin Hotel, where rooms had 
 been bespoken for and assigned to us in advance. 
 
 48 
 
SOME OF THE WOMEN DELEGATES AND GUESTS. 
 
 MRS. 
 
 MRS. F. E. OWENS, 
 ELKOY AVKKV, 
 MRS. LULU Ui'HAM, 
 
 Miss BOVLE, 
 
 MRS. J. P. DAMI-MAN, 
 
 MRS. J. MUKHLE. 
 
 Miss BELLE L. GORTON, 
 Miss MARY A. WEST, 
 MRS. P. C. flovLB. 
 
We had reached the Pacific Coast. At this stage of the 
 narrative the pen involuntarily pauses as memory recalls the 
 succession of incidents upon whose description it is about to 
 enter. The series of brilliant entertainments, such as were never 
 before showered upon a party of amazed visitors ; the beautiful 
 scenery which they were invited to enjoy, the wonders of nature 
 they were confronted with, the steady jump at which they were 
 kept moving, the palatial residences at which they were welcomed, 
 and, above and beyond all else, the magnificent friendliness with 
 which they were greeted, collectively and individually, by their 
 big-hearted Californian hosts, would require a volume to adequately 
 relate, and would tax the powers of an abler writer than the 
 present one to competently describe. To each member of the 
 party who reads these pages there will doubtless recur many facts 
 and incidents that dwell fondly in his memory as among the 
 most enjoyable of his experiences on the trip, but of which he 
 will find here no record. In some respects a narrative like this 
 is like men's lives, the checkered fabric of whose careers is 
 made up of threads of personal encounter, which cross and 
 recross each other in the weaving, but always preserve their 
 separate identity. It is the nearness together of the points of 
 contact that imparts the character to the texture. So this short 
 story of travel must necessarily be traced along the line of the 
 writer's personal observation of incidents in which all participated, 
 but with differing points of joint experience. 
 
 The first night in San Francisco was variously employed by 
 the visiting party. The officers of the League and a few specially 
 invited persons were entertained at a dinner party by Mr. M. 
 H. de Young, proprietor of the San Francisco Chronicle, upon 
 whom had centered the unanimous determination of the Eastern 
 Press Club men and women as their selection for the next 
 
 5 
 
President of the League. That they were splendidly entertained 
 needs no emphasis. Mr. de Young's residence is one of the 
 many private palaces for which San Francisco is famous, and as 
 the guests crossed the threshold they beheld a scene that each 
 will long remember. The wide hall was hung with tapestries and 
 adorned with marble statuettes on richly ornate pedestals, and with 
 decorated vases holding palms and fragrant flowers, all glowing in 
 the soft light shed by a myriad of gas jets gleaming through tinted 
 
 shades. Over the doorway leading to 
 the banquet room hung a white satin 
 banner bearing in golden letters, these 
 words of greeting : " With mystic key, 
 our glorious State, unlocks for thee the 
 Golden Gate." On the right of the arch 
 was a branch of a giant redwood, and 
 on the other side an orange bough 
 laden with golden fruit, their junction 
 over the arch being adorned with 
 chrysanthemums intermixed with ferns 
 and tendrils of green bamboo. The 
 dining-room was decorated with similar 
 elegance, and at each guest's plate lay 
 a card of unique design, bearing his 
 name in golden letters. The soft 
 strains of a string band, hidden in 
 some fern-curtained corner, made a 
 
 mellifluous accompaniment to the clattering of knife and fork 
 and glass as the party discussed the exquisite menu and 
 offered their libations in wines of rarest vintage. At the close 
 of the repast, Marshall P. Wilder set the fun in motion with 
 some droll narratives, which were succeeded by brief and telling 
 
 THE "CHRONICLE" OFFICE, SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
addresses by Mr. de Young, Mr. Hume, President of the San 
 Francisco Press Club ; Messrs. Berri, Page and Coates, of New 
 York ; Mayor Sanderson, Gen. Ruger, U. S. A., and Mr. Hazelton, 
 editor of the San Francisco Post. Then the guests were led to 
 the unique apartment in the basement of Mr. de Young's house, 
 known as the Chinese Room, where they were served with coffee 
 and cigars. That room was one of the wonders of the trip. On 
 every side were displayed rare specimens of cunning carving, while 
 chairs and tables of costly wood and quaint design stood around in 
 cozy attractiveness. The walls were embellished with Chinese masks 
 and weapons, and on one side was a hideous idol, surmounted 
 with a dragon, before which, doubtless, many generations of wor- 
 shippers in China have bent their knees in adoration. The hangings 
 of this strangely brilliant saloon, the mouldings and all the 
 decorations and ornaments, were from the Celestial Kingdom, and 
 their effect upon the visitors was weirdly impressive. There is no 
 other similarly adorned apartment in any residence in the United 
 States. The party broke up at a late hour and returned to the 
 hotel, conversing in a strange patois of mixed Chinese and Heidsick. 
 The young men of the delegation were regaled that same evening 
 at a "Late Watch" at the Press Club, where "high jinks" and 
 "low jinks," and assorted provocatives of hilarity, were enjoyed 
 until the early watches of the next day had begun. The convivial 
 chairman of the Entertainment Committee, Mr. Gagan, with his 
 ever courteous associates, Messrs. Lawrence, Denny and Barendt, 
 and the omnipresent Hume, who had stolen away from the de 
 Young banquet to join in welcoming the visitors, were indefat- 
 igable in their fun-inspiring efforts, and even the bashful New 
 York delegates were speedily thawed out from the icy reserve in 
 which they are customarily enveloped. Mr. Williams, of the Club, 
 tendered to the League the freedom of the city, which Mayor 
 
 5 2 
 
Sanderson afterward confirmed, with the further pledge that the 
 police regulations would be suspended in San Francisco on their 
 behalf throughout the Convention. It was possibly owing to this 
 judicious municipal prevision that the League was enabled as an 
 entire body to participate in the festivities of the following week. 
 Mr. Bromley made an amusing speech, in the course of which he 
 conferred upon the guests whatever portion of the city remained 
 unbestowed ; and with songs, recitations and a variety of admirable 
 musical performances, that memorable " Late Watch " was a very 
 lively initiation into the ways of San Francisco journalists. 
 
 Meanwhile, with greater prudence, the rest of the party had 
 succumbed to the attractions of their luxurious apartments in "The 
 Baldwin," and had retired betimes to enjoy the first night's repose 
 in bed they had experienced since leaving home. These probably 
 were the wisest of all, for no future opportunity for genuine all 
 night rest was afforded during the entire journey. 
 
 That there should be no doubt as to the hospitable intentions 
 of their hosts, each of the visitors received at his apartment an 
 elegant, vellum-bound Souvenir book, illustrated and exquisitely 
 printed on heavy cream-laid paper, in which the San Francisco 
 Press Club outlined the programme for the coming week. This 
 programme, which was accurately adhered to, was introduced by the 
 following words of welcome : 
 
 Welcome, oh, delegates from the frozen East, from the crank- 
 crowded purlieus of New York, from the city of the Lake, where 
 no man dare wear whiskers, from the fever-haunted swamps of 
 Indiana, from the blizzard-swept plains of Dakota, from the and 
 deserts of Utah, where the thermometer ranges from forty-two 
 below to one hundred and forty above in the shade, from the 
 cattle trails of Nebraska, from the pork-laden plains of Ohio, 
 from the sage-brush of Nevada, where the voice of the jack-rabbit 
 is heard in the land and the coyote is the king of beasts- 
 welcome, thrice welcome, to California ! ! ! 
 
 53 
 
Welcome, oh, welcome, men of the East, North and South, 
 and ten times welcome, ladies from the lands on the thither side 
 of the Sierra Nevadas ! Welcome to California, where the noise 
 of the flowers growing in January is like unto the roar of an 
 avalanche, and strawberries are in season all the year round ; 
 where the climate is sold by the acre and land by the quart ; and 
 where you can wear a linen duster in winter and a blanket in 
 summer if you wish to. 
 
 We are here to bid you welcome. Come into the hacienda and 
 partake of frijoles ; tie your horses to the corn bin and let them 
 eat ; throw your guns and knives into the corner, for you are 
 among friends. All that we have is yours ; would that we had 
 
 more. 
 
 Welcome, a hundred times welcome, oh, ladies from the lands 
 where the violet does not bloom until the end of spring, and the 
 only orange blossoms to be found are on the heads of the brides ! 
 All California bids you welcome. The tall redwoods of the forest 
 will bow to the ground as you pass by, the grizzly bears and the 
 lions will sing serenades beneath your windows, and the rivers 
 will leave their beds at a moment's notice to make things pleasant 
 for you. Welcome, a thousand welcomes, oh, delegates and friends ! 
 The whole Pacific coast is waiting to do you honor. The salmon 
 has left his home in the mighty Columbia to sit with you at the 
 feast ; and his young companion, the shrimp, will be at his side. 
 The juicy canvas-back, lovely of plumage and mighty of pinion, 
 will contribute to your happiness; and the effusion of the grape 
 from a hundred sun-kissed Californian hillsides shall flow in your 
 honor. 
 
 The country is all yours. From the snow-capped Shasta in 
 the North to the tropic verges of Los Angeles and Santa Barbara ; 
 from the lava beds of Modoc to the burning sands of Arizona ; 
 from Mount Whitney to Mount Diablo ; in short, " from the 
 Siskiyou to San Diego, from the Sierras to the sea," you shall 
 roam where you please, take what you please, and do what you 
 please. For this occasion the San Francisco Press Club owns 
 the earth and places it at your feet. 
 
 Would you bathe in the warm waters of Del Monte ; speed 
 behind the fastest horses of Palo Alto ; drink dry the breweries 
 or drain the mighty vat of Vina do so ; they are all at your 
 service. The loveliest ladies of our land shall smile on your 
 
 54 
 
braves, and the bravest men kneel at the feet of your fair ones. 
 The land is yours, and, in the language of the postmaster's poet, 
 "if you don't see what you want, please ask for it." 
 
 The roses are growing in the vales for you, and the early 
 asparagus has pushed his head through the earth to peep at the 
 procession. We have warm hearts and cold bottles at your 
 service. You have come out of the wilderness into the Garden 
 of Eden, and there is no reservation on the apples. The breeze 
 will blow from the West while you are with us, and if you smile, 
 our generous earth will crack its sides till you think you have met 
 a Californian Earthquake. 
 
 California is nine hundred miles long and from one hundred 
 and thirty-eight to one hundred and forty miles wide, and embodies 
 all that is best of the entire globe in that compass. Sample the 
 goods that the gods have given us ; reform, and become a Cali- 
 fornian. All the zones are here torrid, frigid and temperate 
 within a half day's journey of each other, and ozone in every one 
 of them ; so that fondness for previous conditions of existence 
 can form no excuse. 
 
 Welcome, again ! 
 
 The visitors were also presented with handsome silver buttons, 
 artistic symbols of close attachment, having engraved on one side 
 the sun setting in the Pacific and on the reverse the words 
 " International League of Press Clubs, San Francisco." From 
 that time forward the Eastern guests when they fancied a want 
 was unsatisfied, had only to press the button the San Francisco 
 Press Club "did the rest." 
 
 Thursday, January i4th, was a bright, sunshiny day, with a 
 warmth suggestive of the latter part of May in New York. It had 
 been the intention to hold a session of the Convention in the fore- 
 noon, but that plan was unanimously and perhaps somewhat vocifer- 
 ously abandoned when the local committee announced that carriages 
 were in waiting to take the excursionists to Sutro Heights, to 
 view the famous Golden Gate. The fact began to dawn upon 
 our excited minds that we had traveled four thousand miles on 
 
 55 
 
false pretenses. While we had been pretending all the way across 
 the continent that we were going to California purely on Press 
 Club business of weighty moment, we really were bent on sight- 
 seeing and enjoyment. It is only fair to state that this view of the 
 case was not entertained, even secretly, by any one of the Eastern 
 visitors, until it was forced upon their consciences by their San 
 Francisco hosts. Nevertheless, much Con- 
 vention business was transacted before we 
 left San Francisco but it was no fault of 
 our entertainers that we were allowed to 
 attend to it. Surreptitious advantage was 
 taken of their unguarded moments of very 
 infrequent occurrence when a slight lull 
 happened in the torrent of entertainment, 
 to sneak in an hour or so, and once even 
 a whole forenoon, of real work. (It seems 
 now, on deliberate reflection, to have been 
 rather unfair conduct on our part towards 
 
 those who treated us throughout with such frank open-handedness.) 
 This parenthesis is necessary to explain how we happened to go 
 to Sutro Park that morning, instead of following the programme 
 announced by the Governing Board before we left New York. 
 It is no spirit of vanity that impels the assertion that we presented 
 a splendid appearance as we rode through and around San Francisco 
 that morning, for it is only a surmise on the writer's part, based 
 upon the attention the procession everywhere attracted. Some 
 were in coaches, some in commodious stages and some contented 
 themselves on the top of a tally-ho, whose four spirited horses were 
 "tooled" by no less a personage than our host, "Lucky Baldwin," 
 to whom the turnout belonged. After climbing some of the seven 
 hills on which San Francisco, like Rome, is founded, we were driven 
 
 AUDI. I'll SUTRl). 
 
GOLDEN GATE l-'ROM THE TERRACE AT 
 SUTRO HEIGHTS. 
 
 through the beautiful Golden Gate Park, where our hosts 
 informed us "there are no keep-off -the-grass signs, and where the 
 whole population has room to breathe. In June or December, 
 
 winter or summer, there are acres of 
 flowers and all out of doors. The 
 deer have a valley to themselves, the 
 buffalo have a whole hillside. One 
 part of the Park is for the children 
 alone. There are hills and meadows, 
 thick woods and beautiful lawns, 
 miles of glorious drives and shady 
 walks. The Park extends to the 
 
 ocean beach, where the billows of the great Pacific ceaselessly break 
 and roar." All this we verified, and enjoyed immensely. An hour 
 was spent inspecting the manifold beauties of the Conservatory, 
 where a day would have been too short a time for making a perfect 
 examination, and, finally, down a steep hill and up a steeper one, 
 and we entered the beautiful grounds belonging to Adolph Sutro, of 
 Nevada silver mining and Comstock tunnel fame. Just before 
 arriving, we were met by Mr. Sutro himself, mounted on a spirited 
 thoroughbred, which he rode with 
 dignified grace, who escorted us 
 around the winding roads, amid 
 groves and flower beds and statuary, 
 to the Cliff House. There we found 
 ourselves face to face with the 
 Golden Gate, with the Pacific Ocean 
 spreading its vast expanse before us, 
 shimmering almost without a ripple 
 
 in the brilliant sunshine. Near at hand were the famous Seal Rocks, 
 covered with hundreds of those curious phocids, with the bland 
 
 57 
 
 SEAL ROCKS SEKX FROM SUTRO HEIGHTS. 
 
countenances of statesmen and the slippery habits of politicians, 
 sunning themselves in affectionate groups as they barked their 
 welcome to the visitors. A detailed inspection was made of the 
 princely domain, which Mr. Sutro has transformed from a sand- 
 hill into a Golden State Eden by the exercise of the same 
 California!! magic as that with which he had raised himself from 
 poverty to conspicuous wealth, after which lunch was served on 
 
 LUNCHEON (IN TIIK I'uNCH OF THE SUTRO RESIDENCE, JANUARY 14'1'H, l8y2. 
 
 the porch of the Sutro residence, where two long tables were laid, 
 whose only shelter was an awning for protection from the sun. 
 This exquisite repast, partaken of amid ripening fruits and 
 blooming flowers on the shore of the Pacific Ocean in the open 
 air in January, was the forerunner of many contrasts with home 
 experiences which the visitors were about to have brought to 
 their attention. No subsequent occasion on the entire journey 
 
 58 
 
weakened the deep impression of that elegant entertainment or in 
 any degree conflicted with the agreeable remembrances that were 
 imparted by the brilliant spectacle of a winter out-door festivity, 
 where all the attributes of wealth, hospitality, beauty, intellect 
 and nature's most charming aspects were so skilfully and so 
 harmoniously blended. 
 
 Fully two hours were occupied in discussing the lunch, the 
 menu being contrived of dishes peculiar to the California region, 
 seasoned with wines and fruits of native growth. A few short 
 speeches succeeded the repast, Mr. Sutro leading in words of 
 cordial greeting, followed by Messrs. Berri, Welshons and Page. 
 At three o'clock the party broke up and the visitors were driven 
 back to San Francisco, past the Golden Gate and through the 
 
 entire breadth of the beautiful military 
 reservation of the Presidio. Late in 
 the afternoon the opening session of 
 the Convention was held in the Press 
 Club rooms in Pine Street, and in the 
 evening a brilliant reception was held 
 at the same place, which was graced 
 
 MR. SUTRO'S AQUARIUM AND BATHS 
 
 AT THK CLIFF HOUSE. by the presence of the leading repre- 
 
 sentatives of San Francisco's social 
 
 worth and feminine beauty. The handsome club rooms were 
 charmingly arrayed for the occasion, the walls being hung with paint- 
 ings and decorated with tasteful adornments. Vases of palms and 
 ferns were artistically disposed, the deep green of their spreading 
 leaves making a reposeful background to the brilliant kaleidoscopic 
 effects of color that gleamed and fluttered on the floors in 
 constantly changing combinations. 
 
 The effect was in every way charming to the senses. During 
 the evening an excellent musical programme by several prominent 
 
 59 
 
artists was rendered. The visitors in whose honor the entertain- 
 ment was given were overwhelmed with attentions, their hosts leaving 
 nothing undone that graceful hospitality, coupled with considerate 
 forethought and controlled by cultured taste, could devise for their 
 gratification. It was on this evening that the Eastern party arrived 
 at the unanimous conclusion, which was reiterated daily during their 
 stay in California, that the immediate occasion, whenever and wher- 
 ever it occurred, was the most delightful experience of the whole 
 journey. When enjoyment is thus steadily and progressively aug- 
 mented, how inadequately weak words are to give it proportionate 
 expression. It is, of course, impracticable within the scope of the 
 present narrative to enter into minute details of what was done 
 and who did it, or what was said and who said it, or what was 
 seen and who provided it, at all the enjoyable gatherings which 
 greeted the travelers along their route. Something must be left to 
 the reader's imagination, and even that flexible faculty may be 
 vigorously strained and yet not stretch to the full gauge of the 
 subject. The San Francisco Press Club reception, however, 
 possessed a special interest, as, excepting the committee who had 
 received us at Auburn, it was the first time that we had been 
 brought collectively into personal communication with the 
 gentlemen of whose hospitalities we were partaking. To the 
 visitors, at least, the relationship thus set on foot was most 
 agreeable. The entertainment had an additional attractiveness in 
 the introduction it afforded us to a brilliant element of San 
 Francisco society. The bar, the bench, the pulpit and the army 
 were all conspicuously represented, besides the leading lights of 
 the city's literary and artistic circles, and as to the ladies there 
 present, suffice it to say that they were in every respect charming 
 and attractive. Press Club entertainments of that order are not 
 often witnessed in any city. 
 
 60 
 
The morning of Friday, January i5th, was ushered in by 
 rosy-fingered Aurora with the brilliancy of its predecessor for the 
 special delectation of the Eastern visitors. The Pacific newspaper 
 men must have made some special arrangement with the weather 
 bureau, for although according to the almanac the rainy season 
 was at its height, the rains ceased to fall on the day before the 
 Wagner train arrived at Auburn, and sunshine prevailed constantly 
 while the party remained in California. This second day was spent 
 on the water, visiting by special steamer, the " Relief," the points of 
 interest that skirt the beautiful Bay of San Francisco. A number 
 of ladies and gentlemen from the city accompanied the party, and a 
 fine brass band lent its melody to the every way delightful trip. 
 The Union Iron Works, on Mare Island, where, under the conduct 
 
 of Mr. Irving M. Scott, several Gov- 
 ernment war vessels, including the 
 " Monterey " and the " California," 
 were in process of construction, were 
 thoroughly inspected, and the excur- 
 sionists were then taken around Fort 
 Point and through the Golden Gate 
 
 THE GOLUKN GA IK AT FORT I-UIXT. iQ the g^j R OC k S> wh j ch they had 
 
 viewed on the previous day from the 
 
 beautiful terraces of the Sutro domain. The progress of the tug 
 through the harbor was greeted by the dipping of flags and firing 
 of guns by the vessels it passed. Thence the boat steamed to lovely 
 Sausalito, where the voyagers were regaled with a sparkling luncheon 
 at the quarters of the Pacific Yacht Club. This repast, apart from 
 its own intrinsic merits, was noteworthy as being the one and only 
 one public meal partaken of by the travelers during the month of 
 January, 1892, at which no speeches were permitted. The orators 
 of the party bore their deprivation with reasonably good grace, 
 
 61 
 
and the listening element did not seem to have their appetites 
 seriously affected by the omission. About three o'clock the 
 return trip began and the steamer visited San Pablo Bay and 
 passed through Roccoon Straits, heading about for home on 
 arriving at Red Rock. It was five o'clock when the lines were 
 made fast to the Clay street pier. Some of the party hastened 
 to the Palace Hotel, where a reception was being given to the 
 Eastern ladies under the auspices of the Pacific Women's Press Club. 
 The guests were cordially received and most handsomely enter- 
 tained in exquisitely decorated apartments by a committee of ladies, 
 conspicuous among whom were Mrs. de Young, Mrs. Hugh Hume, 
 Mrs. Townsend, Mrs. Frona E. Wait, Mrs. Christien and Mrs. 
 Black. By the delegates the remainder of the day until late 
 dinner time was devoted to the affairs of the Convention. As this 
 narrative, however, relates exclusively to the business activities that 
 marked the journey, no note is taken of the occasional hours of 
 relaxation enjoyed in Convention diversions. Those agreeable 
 episodes are duly recorded in Secretary Price's Report, where, also, 
 are described, with official elegance, various fascinating accompani- 
 ments of the Convention, including the first half of the "Open 
 Session" that was held that evening at the Powell Street Opera House, 
 the unrecorded second part being a midnight inspection of " China- 
 town " by the visitors, who explored that unsavory celestial colony 
 in the heart of San Francisco in several detachments, each under 
 the guidance of a detective officer. It is not essential to go into 
 detail regarding what was seen and smelled that night. The list 
 would comprise highbinders, joss houses, fruit venders, theatres, tea 
 stores, opium joints, lodging houses and subterranean dives, ranging 
 in elegance from the pretentious temples, with their gilded and 
 carved ornaments, to the underground places of abode whose 
 chief advertisement was an all-pervading, insinuating, soul-crushing 
 
 62 
 
'. . 
 
 A GROUP OF DELEGATES FROM EAST AND WEST. 
 
 M. P. MUKPHV, Jut.IUS Ml'EHLE, 
 
 P. C. BOVLE, 
 
 DR. FKIEDERICH, J. P. DAMI-MAN, 
 
 JULIUS SCHMAL, 
 
 T. HENRY MARTIN. 
 
and utterly indescribable stench. If the two and seventy several 
 and well-defined stenches which Coleridge analyzed in the city of 
 Cologne could be combined and concentrated into one vaporous 
 fusion, the result would be a savory suggestion of Araby the Blest 
 in comparison with the fetid effluvium in which the home life of 
 San Francisco Chinatown is perpetually immersed. With the 
 understanding imparted by the guides that there were yet lower 
 degrees of filthiness in the Chinese section than had been 
 exhibited, the satiated visitors, with unanimous impulse, determined 
 to return to the hotel. The record of that evening would be 
 incomplete without mention of the entertainment given by the 
 German Press Club to the Fatherland's contingent of the League 
 delegation. The affair was informal and jolly " Ganz famos," 
 as one of the party declared the next day. Speeches were made, 
 songs were sung, reminiscences were exchanged, and Leer and 
 that only was drunk, and the hour hand was reaching out 
 vigorously toward the time for another day to dawn when, with 
 cordial "Ade; Auf Wiedersehen" and earnest handshakes, the 
 party broke up. 
 
 On Saturday, January i6th, everybody was routed out at an 
 uncomfortably early hour, considering that none had retired until 
 long after one in the morning. But our hosts were inexorable. 
 Indications were beginning to manifest themselves on the part of 
 the visitors of a disposition to settle permanently in San Francisco, 
 and it was indispensable that they should be removed from the 
 place before the complaint became chronic. Accordingly, at eight 
 o'clock a special train furnished by the Southern Pacific Railroad 
 Company steamed out from San Francisco with two hundred 
 passengers on board, bound for a three days' excursion to 
 Monterey, Santa Cruz and San Jose. The writer of these pages 
 was especially gratified by the companionship on this excursion 
 
 6 4 
 
of an esteemed friend, Mr. Arpad Haraszthy, the well known 
 viticulturist, whose extensive wine cellars are prominent objects of 
 interest in San Francisco, and to whom he was indebted for 
 repeated courtesies during his stay in that city. It was a 
 charming day as the train rattled along the shore of the beautiful 
 Bay and afterward through the fertile Santa Clara Valley, whose 
 abundant vegetation, already far progressed towards ripening, 
 made the frozen fields of the East, so lately traversed, seem 
 immeasurably distant. The first stop was at Menlo Park and 
 the Palo Alto stock farm of Senator Leland Stanford, where the 
 party disembarked and were shown the equine treasures of the 
 farm, including the famous stallion, Palo Alto, the champion 
 trotter of the world, of fabulous value, but fated to die from 
 pneumonia a few months later. After visiting the training track 
 and witnessing how the young animals are broken to their gait, 
 carriages were taken to the Leland Stanford, Jr., University, the 
 grandest monument to paternal affection in existence, and destined 
 to become one of the leading educational institutions in the world. 
 President Jordan received the party with a hearty welcome and 
 escorted them through the grounds and buildings. This institution 
 was founded by Senator Stanford, of California, in memory of 
 his only son, Leland Stanford, Jr., who died a few years ago 
 while pursuing his education abroad. The total present endow- 
 ment is estimated at $20,000,000, which includes twenty thousand 
 acres of the land surrounding it. The preliminary buildings had 
 recently been completed at the time of our visit and the 
 university opened with over four hundred students on its rolls. 
 The set of buildings which we saw in use are in the form of a 
 large quadrangle, surrounded by one-story structures of dove- 
 colored stone, which, on the inner side facing the quadrangle have 
 cloistered porches, extending all around and broken by handsome 
 
 65 
 
arches that serve for entrances to the inner court. The buildings 
 already erected form the nucleus for a city of schools which it is 
 expected will extend for several miles. Already there were in 
 
 TOMMY KVA.VS, THK YOUNGKST DELEGATE IN THE PARTY. 
 
 them a large number of regular departments of the university, 
 laboratories, lecture rooms, libraries, workshops, etc., in full 
 operation. 
 
 Again we were speeding in the cars past farms and vineyards, 
 
 66 - 
 
lit- 
 
 THE HOTEL DEL MiiXTK AM) ITS SITRROUNDINGS. 
 
through the smiling Santa Clara Valley, until at one o'clock 
 the train arrived at Monterey, and, after passing through a 
 handsome park-like grove, the magnificent Hotel Del Monte, encom- 
 passed by one hundred and thirty acres of forest and garden, 
 opened its hospitable doors, and the realm of fairyland was 
 entered. Here, in mid-January, in a wilderness of flowers and 
 verdure, surrounded by a vast wooded park, in which are embodied 
 all the exquisite possibilities of skillful landscape gardening, near 
 the shores of a bay as blue as that of Naples, stood a palace, a 
 masterwork of artistic taste, the culmination of refinement and 
 luxury. The whole scene was like a realization of a delightful 
 vision of the imagination. The soft, reposeful charm of Monterey 
 Bay has received expression in the following lines published in 
 the California Magazine : 
 
 On sea-washed rocks a dainty lichen grows ; 
 
 Back from the shore are lofty cypress trees ; 
 
 And in the waves the frail anemones 
 Softly their purple fringes ope and close. 
 A lonely gull on slow wing seaward goes ; 
 
 A shallop drifts before the freshening breeze ; 
 
 Full are the lingering hours of calm and ease ; 
 Full is the soul, world-weary, of repose. 
 
 The wind is singing to the monotone 
 
 Of the deep tides ; and singing in the pines, 
 Through whose soft waving foliage lightly shines 
 
 The sun on silver beaches as it shone 
 
 Twelve decades past, when from the branches swung 
 The Mission bells that Junipero hung. 
 
 Monterey is one of the quaintest and most interesting places 
 in California. Located by its Spanish discoverer, Vizcaino, in 
 1602, it was here that nearly two centuries later the old Mission 
 
 08 
 
Fathers first established themselves, and their little cluster of adobe 
 houses, and the churches in which they ministered to their savage 
 flocks, still stand on the shore of the bay, facing the Pacific 
 Ocean, dreamy reminders of the days of Junipero Serra, when 
 the king of Spain yet claimed that region as part of his domain. 
 A granite statue marks the spot where Padre Junipero landed in 
 1770, and not far distant, in strange historic contrast, are the ruins 
 of Fremont's Fort, where, in 1847, the "Pathfinder" first raised 
 the bear-emblazoned flag, when the golden State was wrested 
 from Mexico. The experiences of that afternoon will never be 
 forgotten. The delightful ride of eighteen miles to wave-dashed 
 Cypress Point, along broad, smooth avenues, now skirting the 
 very water's edge, now passing through dense pine and live oak 
 forests, or traversing the California Chautauqua, Pacific Grove, 
 or through quaint settlements of Chinese fishermen, then bringing 
 up by the sea shore at an abrupt point, beyond which are ledges 
 of rocks covered with seals, is, beyond any question, one of the 
 grandest drives in the world. At one point it passes through 
 a grove of singular trees, found only in one other place on earth. 
 They are cedars of Lebanon, the original slips of which were said 
 to have been brought from the Holy Land by the Jesuit Fathers. 
 Apparently twisted and wrenched by time and tempest, they 
 present a curious appearance, with their short, gnarled trunks, 
 surmounted by spreading masses of dark green foliage so flattened 
 down as to be impervious to sunshine or rain. Only in Dore's 
 pictures are such trees elsewhere seen. After the drive, the 
 welcome banquet, and then a restful interval, followed by a lively 
 ball, the first magical suggestion of which dispelled the weariness 
 with which, down to that moment, the feminine element of the 
 party had been nearly overcome. And that lovely evening ! Mid- 
 winter though it was, the air was soft and balmy, and redolent 
 
 69 
 
with the delicious odors of a myriad beds of flowers. A mild 
 zephyr from the Pacific imparted a tremulous motion to the 
 everywhere overhanging foliage, through which the rays of the 
 moon quivered and flickered in fitful flashes to the earth. Nature's 
 repose is her most inviting aspect. The temptation for a mid- 
 night stroll was irresistible, and, too, the lights in the Club House 
 near by beamed with such hospitable suggestion ! 
 
 Early on Sunday morning we reluctantly left Monterey, 
 feeling, as we felt at departing from each place we visited, that 
 the glory of the journey was over, and that the future had little 
 to offer in comparison with past enjoyments a feeling, by the 
 way, which evaporated with corresponding regularity within thirty 
 minutes after each place had passed from sight. Arriving in two 
 hours at Santa Cruz, we were driven out to what some called the 
 Natural Bridge, where we found 
 a seaside observatory on a rocky 
 point at the end of a cable road, 
 and where we were regaled with 
 grapes and wine, besides which 
 some enthusiasts claimed to have 
 had a momentary sight of a 
 veritable Pacific Ocean whale, 
 "spouting" in the sea. On our 
 return to the town we were 
 transferred to a narrow gauge 
 branch of the Southern Pacific 
 Railroad, and in the course of 
 half an hour's climb up the 
 Santa Cruz Mountains we were 
 
 at "Big Tree Station," inspecting with great satisfaction a grove 
 of colossal redwood forest monarchs. These are not the famous 
 
 OBSERVATORY AT THE NATUKAL BRIDGE, 
 SANTA CRUZ. 
 
" big trees " of Calaveras and Mariposa, but they are plenty big 
 enough to justify the name they bear and to be entitled to fame 
 on their own account, one specimen having a diameter of twenty 
 feet and an alleged height of over three hundred. As Emerson 
 says, "they have a monstrous talent for being tall." They belong 
 to the species seqiioia sempcrvirens, and, like their larger cousins, 
 the sequoia gigantea, of the Sierra Nevadas, they are regarded 
 by scientific know-alls as survivals of a period of the world's 
 history when, with the prevalence of a more humid atmosphere 
 than now obtains, they were widely distributed, the fossil remains 
 of some of them having been found as far north as the frozen 
 soil of Greenland. The name Sequoia was that of an ingenious 
 Cherokee Indian, who invented the Cherokee alphabet, and it was 
 bestowed upon the California!! redwood by a German botanist, 
 Endlicher, in 1847, about five years before the Calaveras grove 
 was discovered. But the redwood is a favorite tree in California, 
 being admirably adapted for cabinet work and general building 
 purposes, and these majestic relics of an uncertain antiquity are 
 rapidly disappearing before a foe more promptly destructive than 
 the diminishing humidity of the atmosphere. -The big redwood 
 grove near Santa Cruz is justly regarded as one of the most 
 interesting features of that picturesque coast range region. One 
 veteran, whose trunk near the earth has been hollowed out by 
 fire, would give comfortable standing room to fully thirty persons 
 in its charred interior, and there are others in the grove yet 
 larger. Having bestowed due admiration upon the big trees, 
 we speeded on to San Jose, the capital of Santa Clara County, 
 where we were received with enthusiastic welcome by a committee 
 of citizens, who escorted us in fine style to most agreeable quarters 
 in the handsome hostelry, the Hotel Vendome, which was 
 gorgeously decorated with flowers in our honor, Luncheon was 
 
 7' 
 
succeeded by a processional drive through the city and its suburbs, 
 which we found resplendent with Queen Anne cottages and other 
 tasteful residences, surrounded with fine lawns and well tended 
 
 THE LICK OBSKRVATORY ON MOUNT HAMILTON, NEAR SAN JOSE, CAL. 
 
 orchards. Altogether, San Jose gave the impression of a suc- 
 cessful little city, in which modern ideas of thrift and architecture 
 are rapidly replacing the crudeness of earlier days. The broad 
 
 72 
 
streets are traversed by electric railways and are made attractive 
 to the sight by the frequent occurrence of open squares abounding 
 in ornamental palms. After a view of the old Mission Church 
 and a visit to the rooms of the Board of Trade and other 
 prominent places of interest, we returned at dusk to the Vendome 
 to prepare for the evening's banquet, which proved to be a 
 genuinely elegant affair. The entertainment wound up with a con- 
 cert in the music hall of the hotel, and about midnight the travelers 
 eagerly sought their apartments, thoroughly worn out with the 
 labors of that busily occupied Sabbath. The day had been spent 
 in verdant forests and amid blooming flowers. Just one week 
 previous we had been sleighing at Leadville and bathing in a 
 blinding snowstorm in the hot pool at Glenwood, Colorado. It 
 was difficult to bring one's mind to a realizing sense of the 
 striking experiences we had passed through in that short interval 
 of time. 
 
 The next morning showed the Eastern party to be somewhat 
 divided in purpose. They were universally agreed, however, that 
 it was necessary to wire their home offices at once for a fresh 
 supply of adjectives expressive of admiration, the stock with 
 which they started having been completely exhausted. A large 
 number set out at seven o'clock in carriages for a mountain 
 climb of twenty-eight miles, to visit the Lick Observatory, on 
 Mount Hamilton, escorted by the Mayor and a special committee. 
 The others, contenting themselves with a distant sight of the 
 Observatory, where 
 
 " On yon peak against the cloudless sky, 
 
 " The guarding eye of science reads the deep," 
 
 in full view from the city, saved themselves the labor of the 
 mountain ascent, and returned to San Francisco in the early 
 
 73 
 
forenoon. The party who made the Mount Hamilton trip had 
 a glorious ride. The atmosphere was transparently clear, and 
 the beauties of the Santa Clara Valley were unfolded in all their 
 glory of verdant undulation, as the spirited, four-horse teams 
 speeded along the winding road that connects the low land with 
 the clouds. Mayor Rucker, of San Jose, the indefatigable Charles 
 Shortridge, editor of the San Jose Mercury, and their associate 
 committeemen, in collusion with the Vendome Hotel management, 
 had sent a corps of waiters in advance with the material for a 
 robust lunch, which was attacked and successfully overcome at 
 Smith's Creek, a few miles below the summit of the mountain. 
 About one o'clock, at an altitude of 4,400 feet, the great Observatory 
 was reached, and the travelers at once laid aside all concern 
 for earthly matters. Peering through a twelve-inch telescope, a 
 twinkling light was indicated to them as the star Vega, many 
 million miles more distant from them than the sun ; so far away, 
 indeed, that it requires sixteen years for a wave of its light to be 
 transmitted to the earth. The contemplation of this mysteriously 
 remote orb giving rise to uncomfortable suggestions as to the 
 distance that intervened between them and heaven, they turned for 
 comfort to the great instrument sixty feet long, with a thirty-six 
 inch lens, that showed them Venus, which their educated minds 
 recognized as being in much closer proximity. The wonderful 
 mechanism of the Observatory's great dome was greatly admired, 
 its one hundred tons of weight being so delicately poised on wheels 
 as to revolve readily under the impetus of a moderate shove of 
 the shoulders. The huge telescope, also, is so accurately adjusted, 
 that it can be moved with the pressure of one's hand. Every 
 imaginable contrivance of mechanical ingenuity requisite for carrying 
 into effect the purposes of the institution's founder appears to have 
 been provided for that little colony of star-gazers, whose thirty or 
 
 74 
 
THREE OF THE FOUNDERS OF THE INTERNATIONAL LEAGUE OF PRESS CLUBS. 
 FOSTER COATES, THOMAS H. KEENAN, JR., LYNN R. MEEKINS. 
 
forty members are supplied with food from San Jose, twenty-eight 
 miles away, and who, when snow obstructs the mountain roads, are 
 wholly cut off from intercourse with the outside world. The 
 descent of the mountain was accomplished with exhilarating rapidity, 
 and at half-past six o'clock the party were in San Francisco with 
 time to dine and rest before preparing for the entertainment of 
 the evening. 
 
 That night marked an epoch in the life of every member of 
 the party. The men were the guests of the San Francisco Press 
 Club at a banquet in the Palace Hotel, and the ladies were given 
 a reception by the Pacific Coast Women's Press Association at the 
 Pleasanton Hotel. Both were memorable events. The steady 
 succession of agreeable surprises that had marked the entertainments 
 during the week had inspired the Eastern party with a profound 
 admiration for the capacity for hospitality possessed by their San 
 Francisco Press Club hosts. The Palace Hotel farewell banquet 
 was a fitting culmination of the series, though in some respects it 
 seemed calculated to result in retarding the parting guests rather 
 than to speed them on their way. At the main table Mr. Hugh 
 Hume, President of the San Francisco Press Club, presided, with 
 Gen. W. H. L. Barnes at his right as toast-master. Next to the 
 last named gentleman was General Ruger, the popular commander 
 of the Military Department of the Pacific; and interspersed among 
 the guests at the table, and at the five others that extended from 
 it at right angles, were many local celebrities, representing the bar, 
 the press and the municipal government. The unique menu card 
 deserves to be perpetuated. It comprised several pages in imitation 
 of "copy" prepared for printing, fastened together at the upper 
 end with a cord. On the first page was depicted a bear, holding 
 in one paw a bottle of ink taken from an open box labeled "The 
 Press Club of San Francisco." In the background, in letters of 
 
 76 
 
gold, was the inscription, " International League of Press Clubs," 
 while underneath the whole were the words, " Report of the 
 Committee on Banquet tendered to the visiting delegates of the 
 International League of Press Clubs, San Francisco, January i8th, 
 1892." The menu was as follows: 
 
 To the President and Board of Managers, San Francisco Press 
 Club : 
 
 GENTLEMEN. The committee appointed by you in the matter of the 
 banquet for the visiting delegates report as follows : 
 
 After a certain amount of highly respectable discussion, it was decided 
 to hold the banquet at the Palace Hotel. There are, of course, many finer 
 and more pretentious hostelries than this in our city and vicinity, but 
 this strikes a fair average and will give our visitors something of an idea 
 how the San Francisco newspaper man lives during 365 days in the year. 
 
 Which is the most elegant Anglo-Saxon we could extract from M-E-N-U, 
 we are happy to say, have been determined upon without serious collision 
 between any of the committeemen, but you will never know the amount 
 of gray matter expended in the elaboration of the M-E-N-U. (Your next 
 banquet committee will learn of it through sad experience.) We have 
 decided to commence with 
 
 ($aHfOttttia ystCVS. This will put our guests at home immediately and 
 
 will give them an opportunity of remarking how 
 superior our bivalve is to that of the effete East. 
 After this succulent product of our native heath 
 (?) comes 
 
 OUSOTtttWC (Jfoyal) This is as near as we could come to straight Eng- 
 
 lish, as there appeared to be a lack of euphony 
 about "royal soup." 
 
 77 
 
(Assorted) There was considerable silence regarding this 
 item. Only one member appeared familiar with the 
 subject, and even he admitted that there was some 
 doubt in his mind as to whether what he had once 
 partaken of was hors d'oeuvres or hors de combat. 
 
 Salmon (Holland Sauce), POTATOES PARISIAN. " What's the matter 
 with Sacramento River Salmon ? " was the query 
 immediately propounded by an obstreperous mem- 
 ber, but it availed him nothing, as the committee 
 were totally unfamiliar with the rights of minorities. 
 
 (St. Cloud). Anent this there was hot discussion, chiefly 
 regarding the pronunciation of the qualifying 
 adjunct. When it was learned how the majority 
 pronounced it, the member hailing from Boston 
 retired from active duty with the committee. 
 
 . Unanimously decided upon. Even the doubting 
 Thomas, who feared the possibility of getting 
 something not the agaricus campestris, was carried 
 away by the popular enthusiasm. After this little 
 divertisement comes 
 
 Of ^Sccf (Richelitu), FRENCH PEAS. After which comes the piece of 
 resistance (?) of the evening. (We were told it 
 was absolutely necessary to use this expression 
 about something or the banquet would not be 
 complete. The ordnance editor did the translating.) 
 
 udi, CELERY SAUCE. There was some discussion as to 
 whether the ducks should be served with or without 
 the canvas, but on motion, duly seconded, the mat- 
 ter was referred back to the head cook, with power 
 to act. After this, in rapid succession will come 
 
 gcssevt. 
 offee. giqucurs. 
 
 78 
 

 
 'SOME OF THE GUESTS OF THE PRESS CLUB LEAGUE. 
 
 MRS. DR. HUNTER, MRS. J. H. YAGEK, Miss MATTISON, 
 
 Miss A. KELLOGG, MRS. LYNN R. MEEKINS. MRS. T. H. MARTIN. 
 
While the foregoing affair is being served, it is proposed that the 
 assembled guests and occasional hosts partake of 
 
 Hock (Napa Valley Wine Company). 
 
 Haul Sauterne (Charles A. Wetmore). 
 
 Portola Vineyard Claret (E. F. Preston). 
 
 riargaux, Souvenir (Charles A. Wetmore). 
 "loot & Chandon, Brut Imperial. 
 Q. H. Mumin. Extra Dry. 
 
 By way of parenthesis, we wish to state that it has been your 
 committee's sole and constant aim to please those who want the earth. 
 Providence alone knows how near we have come to it. 
 
 A trifle weary and travel-stained, and with sincere sympathy for the 
 concocters of the next banquet, we beg to submit ourselves, your obedient 
 servants. 
 
 THE COMMITTEE. 
 
 The parenthetical allusion to those who wanted " the earth " 
 was, of course, intended for home application exclusively. The 
 Eastern delegates on that evening would have been contented to 
 take San Francisco as their modest share. The speeches that 
 followed the discussion of the repast have been officially recorded 
 in the annual report of the League, and it only remains to state 
 here that throughout the night and until the small hours of the 
 morrow the reason of the diners was copfously feasted while their 
 souls overflowed with the inspiring influences of good fellowship 
 and good cheer. 
 
 The Ladies' Reception given by the Women's Press Association, 
 of California, at the Hotel Pleasanton, was an equally brilliant and 
 successful affair. There were some outspoken denunciations of the 
 exclusiveness of the men's banquet, whereby was enforced a 
 separation of the sexes wholly out of harmony with the professed 
 principles of the League, but on the whole the ladies proved equal 
 to the emergency and made a night of it on their own account, of 
 
 80 
 
which they will long treasure the remembrance. The guests were 
 received by a commiltee of the Club in the handsomely decorated 
 parlors of the hotel, and as very few declinations had been received 
 to the seven hundred and fifty invitations sent out, the committee 
 had a tolerably busy time. The formal exercises that followed the 
 introduction of the visitors were begun by Miss Kate Field, who 
 spoke in warm terms of the useful functions exercised by Press 
 Clubs in the United States, drawing a line, however, at the point 
 where men go off to feast by themselves to the utter exclusion of 
 their professional sisters. But the speakers who followed Miss 
 Field were so eloquent in their eulogiums of women, and of 
 journalistic women in particular, that the audience forgot the slight 
 the men had offered them in rapturous contemplation of their own 
 transcendent excellences. The reception terminated at midnight, 
 and was voted by all the participants as having been one of the 
 most delightful assemblages imaginable. 
 
 The ladies to whom the visitors were indebted for their 
 agreeable entertainment comprised with others the following 
 committees : 
 
 Programme Committee: 
 
 MRS. JULIETTE MATHIS, MRS. LYUIA PRF.SCOTT, 
 
 " E. O. SMITH, " ALICE KINGSBURY COOLEY, 
 
 L. J. WATKINS, " M. P. JOHNSON, 
 
 Miss MARY LAMHKKT. 
 
 Reception : 
 
 MRS. LILLIAN PLUNKETT, MRS. FRANCES B. EDCERTON, 
 
 JUANA AciILEY NEAL, " LEILA ELLIS, 
 
 " JULIETTE MATHIS, " MARY LY.NDE HOFFMAN, 
 
 LOUISE HUMPHREY SMITH, " SARAH B. COOPER, 
 
 Miss MINNA V. LEWIS. 
 
 Entertainment : 
 
 MRS. BARBARA KNELL, MRS. F. W. D'EvEi.vu, 
 
 FLORENCE PERCY MATHESON, " LILLIAN PLUNKETT, 
 
 " ALICE CARY WATERMAN, " JULIETTE MATHIS. 
 
 81 
 
Tuesday, January igth, was devoted to concluding the business 
 of the Convention, and after the adjournment of that body the 
 visitors dispersed themselves over the city seeing the sights, 
 inspecting the palaces on Nob Hill and in other localities dedicated 
 to wealth and fashion, and in searching for mementos of the visit 
 to carry back to their liomes. For this was to be their last day in 
 San Francisco, and despite the multifarious excitements of the 
 preceding week it seemed to the Eastern party as though they had 
 enjoyed too little opportunity for acquainting themselves with the 
 characteristics of the Occidental city, whose open gates had invited 
 them to cross the continent and of whose broad-gauged people 
 they were always thereafter to carry so agreeable a remembrance. 
 Accordingly, that was a busily occupied afternoon, winding up with 
 a fine banquet at the hotel, tendered by their host of a week, Mr. 
 Baldwin. The entire first floor of the hotel was decorated with 
 palms, ferns, green trees, smilax and potted firs, so that the dining 
 room was entered through a gorgeous bower. 
 
 In the evening the climax of entertainment was reached in a 
 reception given in honor of the visiting delegates by Mr. and Mrs. 
 M. H. de Young in their handsome residence on California street. 
 There was a cheery informality about that last evening of the San 
 Francisco visit, which was 'especially charming, and the entertainment 
 throughout was so cordially genial as to avert from it the slightest 
 tinge of sombreness that might be predicated of a concerted leave- 
 taking. This effect was further sustained by the fact that the host 
 and hostess were pledged to accompany the travelers throughout 
 the remainder of their journey in California, an arrangement that 
 had been greeted with unqualified satisfaction. There were over 
 four hundred members of San Francisco's choicest society gathered 
 in the de Young mansion, and the evening slipped merrily away. 
 The supper down stairs in the extensive Chinese room drew forth 
 
 82 
 
exclamations of amazement from those who had not previously 
 seen that wonderful apartment, with its wealth of gorgeous and 
 grotesque splendor, cunning carvings, rare mosaics and other 
 curiosities innumerable. Great, however, as was the admiration 
 elicited by the varied display of Celestial skill, one, after all, could 
 not avoid feeling a certain triumphant sense of personal superiority 
 while sipping Ruinart and Pommery Sec, and discussing the 
 
 RECEPTION ROOM IN M. H. F. YOUNG S RESIDENCE, SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 elaborate menu at a table on which possibly Confucius had written 
 the " Five Canonical Books " that for the past fourteen centuries 
 have served as the basis of Chinese literature. Whatever the 
 anachronism involved, the nineteenth century certainly had the best 
 of it that evening. But midnight had long since passed, and an 
 early start must be made on the morrow. Trunks were meanwhile 
 to be packed and other arrangements to be perfected for the 
 
homeward journey. So with lingering grasps of the hands of our 
 newly made friends, and mutual expressions of hopes of again 
 meeting, the last farewells were spoken and the final entertainment 
 in San Francisco of the Eastern delegates was ended. 
 
 It would be out of place, if, indeed, it were practicable, to 
 refer by name to every person to whom the visitors had been 
 indebted for courtesies and hospitalities during their visit to San 
 Francisco. To the Press Club Reception Committee, however, 
 the writer desires to record, for himself and on behalf of his 
 associates and traveling companions, some faint sense of the 
 unqualified gratification which the unwearying attentions of that 
 committee afforded, and to repeat here the wish, that had a 
 thousand utterances before the party broke up at the journey's 
 end, that it may be their pleasure and happiness some day to 
 act in their turn as the hosts and entertainers of those noblemen 
 of the Pacific Slope. The committee in question comprised 
 Gen. John F. Sheehan, Chairman ; Hugh Hume, President of the 
 San Francisco Press Club ; O. Black, Secretary ; M. H. de Young, 
 Local Delegate to the League of Press Clubs ; T. T. Williams, 
 Ross Jackson, John McComb, H. H. Egbert, E. A. Phillips, John 
 Finlay, Harry Mann, Judge Hunt, T. F. Bonnet, Harry M. Tod, 
 O. J. Stillwell, E. F. Moran, Samuel Ewing, Samuel Davis, T. J. 
 Murphy, Jeremiah Lynch, C. M. Palmer, John Lord Love, 
 George R. Sanderson, James O. Denny, Nat J. Brittan and E. W. 
 Townsend. 
 
 The San Francisco Press Club had, as already shown, welcomed 
 us on our arrival in glowing words of tempting invitation. Their 
 farewell dirge was equally characteristic : 
 
 " The newspaper men of San Francisco say good-bye to their 
 visiting brethren of the East with reluctance. The association 
 has done us good ; and, if we were able, we would hold you 
 
 8 4 
 
here for a fortnight longer. We are heartily glad to know 
 you, and there is enough testimony in to warrant the belief that 
 the occasion has not been wholly devoid of interest to yourselves. 
 
 " But the fiat of the autocratic body known as the Committee 
 of Arrangements has gone forth, and you must leave us. May 
 your homeward journey be safe, and may you carry with you a 
 pleasant recollection of California and her people. Though you 
 have seen a deal of California and Californians since your entrance 
 into the State, there is still in store for you much which has 
 never, up to date, failed to attract and hold the interest of the 
 Eastern visitor. That semi-tropical wonderland of the South, the 
 land of golden fruits and blossoming flowers and singing birds, the 
 Italy of America, remains to be explored. At Fresno, where you 
 are programmed for a day's stay, you will be shown the world's 
 largest and finest raisin vineyards, and gain an idea of the nature 
 of our interior midwinter climate. 
 
 " For one hundred and fifty miles from Fresno your route lies 
 through the great San Joaquin Valley, and then, crossing Tehachapi, 
 some of the difficulties which beset the Southern Pacific Company 
 will be noted. Then comes the Mojave desert ; it is a novelty, 
 but we are not proud of it. 
 
 " Then comes Los Angeles, the metropolis of the Southern 
 citrus belt. Here is the earliest home (in California) of the 
 orange, the lemon, the fig and the vine ; the bananas and pineapples 
 are now on the list. 
 
 " Then come Riverside, San Bernardino and San Diego, all 
 replete with glories due to Nature's bounteous blessing of soil and 
 climate. 
 
 " Then there is a climb over the mountains, another desert to 
 cross arid the thing is done. You have left California and are 
 on your way home. 
 
 "Good-by! Come again. 
 
 "TiiE PRESS CLUB OF SAN FRANCISCO." 
 
 If any point of this narrative sustains the inference that while 
 in California the visitors had been afforded the privilege of resting, 
 the writer has failed to express himself as lucidly as he had 
 desired. Such a concession by the San Francisco Press Club 
 
 8s 
 
would have been a clear violation of contract on the part of that 
 organization. At a dinner at the Marlhorough Hotel, in New 
 York, given the previous November by members of the New 
 York Press Club to the visiting officers of the League, Mr. de 
 Young, in inviting the delegates to visit the Pacific Slope, distinctly 
 stated that he was instructed by the San Francisco Press Club to 
 promise the visitors during their stay a full supply of everything, 
 excepting sleep. That promise, with its limitation, was kept to 
 the letter. They evidently thought it would be superfluous for 
 the visitors to lie in bed, when opportunities were so abundant 
 elsewhere. The only other luxury, besides that of sleep, which 
 was at all sparingly offered was drinking water. But, in fairness 
 to San Francisco, it should be borne in mind that the visit was 
 made during the "rainy season," when no special provision of that 
 element would seem to be required. However, if the visitors 
 suffered any particular inconvenience from the deprivation, they 
 were politely careful not to allude to it in the face of the masterly 
 example of abstinence set them by their hosts. 
 
 Wednesday, January 2oth, marked a new epoch in the journey. 
 Invitations had been received from several cities in the southern 
 part of the State, through the municipal authorities and boards of 
 trade and citizens' committees, for the Eastern delegates to visit 
 them on their homeward journey, and the Southern Pacific 
 Railroad, which had captured us at Ogden, insisted upon holding 
 us in its grasp until we should arrive at Los Angeles. Accord- 
 ingly, after parting with some of our San Francisco hosts at the 
 hotel, and being escorted across the ferry to Oakland by others, 
 we started from the depot in the latter place at 10 o'clock on 
 Wednesday morning, having first arrived in that city on the 
 afternoon of the Wednesday previous. At 2 P. M. we reached 
 Sacramento in the custody of Messrs. Houghton, Davis, Sheehan, 
 
 86 
 
Schmidt, Larkin and Drury, a committee of representatives of that 
 capital, who had joined the train at Davisville. The delegates 
 were presented with printed programmes descriptive of the city. 
 Mayor Comstock, with other committeemen, received us at the 
 depot, and we were speedily driven to the rooms of the Sutter 
 Club, where a bevy of particularly handsome lasses were waiting 
 to assist us to an elegant luncheon, after presenting the men of 
 the party with boutonnieres of violets and the ladies with corsage 
 bouquets. Several brief addresses followed on both sides, Mr. S. 
 Prentiss Smith and Mayor Comstock speaking in behalf of 
 Sacramento, and Messrs, de Young, Berri and Worrall for the 
 League. Mr. de Young's eloquent acknowledgment of Sacra- 
 mento's splendid reception of the delegates was vigorously indorsed 
 by the latter body, and, after a most agreeable entertainment, the 
 party re-entered their carriages and were conveyed to the State 
 Capitol building, where Secretary Johnson did the honors in the 
 absence of Governor Markham, who was detained at home by an 
 attack of the grip. After inspecting the Capitol, under the escort 
 of a joint committee of citizens and pretty girls, a reception was 
 held in the Assembly Chamber. Attorney-General Hart greeted 
 the visitors in words of warm welcome, to which President de 
 Young responded in felicitous phrases. Ex-Vice-President Lynn 
 R. Meekins, of Baltimore, followed with a masterly speech that 
 was roundly applauded, and Messrs. Page and Berri, of New York, 
 also spoke with effect. From the Capitol the guests were given 
 an opportunity to examine the paintings in the million dollar 
 Crocker Art Gallery, and were subsequently taken to Suiter's Fort 
 and through the principal streets of the city. A conspicuous 
 feature of the entertainment in Sacramento, one over which the 
 young unmarried men of the party were agitated for days after- 
 wards, and which, strange to say, even the ladies of the party 
 
 87 
 
cordially conceded, was the presence among the entertainers of a 
 number of especially pretty and lovable young ladies. Sacramento, 
 on account of such a revelation of loveliness, will always have a 
 warm place in the remembrance of that Eastern party. It was 
 with unfeigned reluctance that the train was taken at 7 in the 
 evening, for it seemed that it would have been pleasant to spend 
 a week in Sacramento rather than to hurry through the place in 
 the brief hours of a midwinter afternoon. 
 
CHAPTER in. 
 
 SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 JANUARY 21-24, 1892. 
 * 
 
 ITH the early morning of January 2ist began 
 the party's delightful experience of Southern 
 California, the Italy of America. It lasted 
 but four short days, but it implanted pleasant 
 memories to endure through the lifetime of 
 all who shared it. Waking at Fresno on 
 Thursday the day was devoted to visiting and 
 inspecting the vineyards, including Col. William 
 Forsyth's raisin vineyards and the wine cellars, 
 that abound in the vicinity of that enterprising 
 and go-ahead community. Friday was devoted 
 
 to Pasadena and Los Angeles, driving through and around the 
 former, and at the latter, where some of the party were entertained 
 by Mr. D. Freeman, a friend of Mr. de Young, with a unique 
 Spanish breakfast, the delegates dined in royal style in the open 
 air under the shadow of orange and pepper trees on the spacious 
 lawns of Judge Silent's residence, ending the day with a formal 
 banquet at the Redondo Beach Hotel, where it was decided by 
 unanimous vote that more comfort and satisfaction were procurable 
 to the square inch than at any watering place on the Atlantic 
 coast. Saturday the orange groves of Redlands were visited, where 
 the roads traversed miles and miles of orchards fairly groaning 
 
 89 
 
beneath their golden burden of luscious fruit, the overladen 
 branches being sustained by poles to prevent their breaking. At 
 San Bernardino lunch was partaken of and speeches were delivered, 
 after which the party were hastened to Riverside, where they 
 enjoyed a fifteen mile drive over the splendid roads and through 
 the unspeakably beautiful Magnolia Avenue, resuming their journey 
 at 7.30 in the evening. On Sunday morning, January 24th, at 
 
 THE NEW YORK PRESS CLUB DELEGATES AT JUDGE SILENT's, LOS ANGELES, CAL. 
 
 8.45, the southern limit of the journey was attained when the 
 train drew up at the depot in San Diego. A committee was in 
 waiting with a steamboat to take the party on an excursion down 
 the Bay, visiting en route the U. S. Cruiser San Francisco, on the 
 invitation of Admiral Brown, and bringing up at the Coronado 
 Beach Hotel, where a delightful lunch was partaken of. Some of 
 
 9 o 
 
the party to whom steamboat rides and the quarter decks of war 
 vessels were no particular novelty had declined the invitation to 
 sail on the Bay, preferring to explore the features of interest in 
 and around San Diego. They were amply repaid. A cable road 
 shot them quickly up to a lofty summit, from which a charming 
 view was gained of the peaceful old Spanish valley, while the 
 ancient town lay spread beneath them, and beyond it the lovely 
 Bay, whose unruffled surface was in peaceful keeping with the 
 Sabbath stillness that on every side prevailed. A short carriage ride 
 brought the visitors to the old Mission, whose bell has echoed 
 through that Valley for more than two centuries, and a little 
 further to a small adobe cottage, immortalized by Helen Hunt as 
 the house in which her heroine, Ramona, was wedded to her Indian 
 lover. The streets of San Diego were also quaintly attractive, but 
 as the stores were all closed, the temptations of their windows were 
 a vain display. Later in the afternoon a reception was given the 
 visitors in the San Diego Opera House, and at 6 P. M. the train 
 set out once more to cross the Continent, this time traveling 
 eastward. Nearly 4,800 miles had been already traveled, and a 
 week's journey was still before them. 
 
 In thus rapidly summarizing the trip through Southern 
 California the enjoyments that attended it have hardly been hinted 
 at. The experience was a new one to nearly every person in the 
 party. The weather was deliciously clear, and the soft, balmy air 
 of that half-tropical region in the middle of January, and the fruits 
 and flowers and brilliant foliage that were found abounding on 
 every hand, were a revelation for which even the phenomena they 
 had encountered during the previous ten days of Pacific Coast life 
 had scarcely prepared them. Some of the more marked events of 
 those four days of sunshine and pleasure demand recognition. So, 
 also, does the delightful climate that had favored us so admirably 
 
 91 
 
throughout. California climate is one of those things that has to 
 be experienced to be appreciated, or even understood. California 
 presents all the features of the temperate and the semi-tropic 
 zones. Upon the mountain heights eternal snow looks down. 
 In the great valleys of the Santa Clara, Sacramento and San 
 Joaquin, the flowers ever bloom. Upon the coast the chilly sea 
 breeze blows. In the interior valleys, summer suns descend and 
 an almost tropical warmth exists which causes vegetation to grow 
 in a way that is wonderful to behold. The famous Japan Current, 
 anti-type of the Atlantic Gulf Stream, sweeps the coast, and in 
 winter its warm breath extends inland to the Sierra Nevadas, 
 making the weather mild and the rains warm. Fogs seldom exist, 
 except along the coast. There are a few hot days in summer, 
 we were told, in the interior, but the nights are nearly always 
 cool and pleasant. During nine months in the year the weather 
 is about perfect. There are only two seasons in California, the 
 wet and the dry. The rainfall in winter is very light, and rain in 
 summer or between April and November is hardly known. The 
 dry atmosphere makes the heat of the interior valleys bearable, and 
 it is a well known fact that a temperature from fifteen to twenty 
 degrees higher than that to which one is accustomed in the East 
 may be borne with comfort. There is scarcely a day in the year 
 when the weather is so warm or so cold as to prevent a person in 
 good health from working out in the open air. Dr. Remondino, 
 of San Diego, in his instructive book on " The Mediterranean 
 Shores of America," discussing Southern California in relation to 
 its climatic, physical and meteorological conditions, finds there six 
 distinct classes of climate, all having their characteristic therapeutic 
 advantages. " These are the purely insular climate, the peninsular, 
 the coast, the foot-hill and valley, ranging in elevation from 200 
 to 2,500 feet above sea level, the mountain climate, from 2,500 
 
 92 
 
feet to 9,000 feet elevation, and the desert climate, from 360 feet 
 below sea level to 2,500 feet above." With such a well defined 
 variety to select from everybody ought to be accommodated to his 
 taste and satisfaction. A special characteristic also, of the Southern 
 California climate is its tonic, bracing quality. It has often been 
 compared to that of Italy, but the comparison is inexact, for it 
 is wholly devoid of the unpleasant peculiarities of the Italian 
 
 UTILIZING A BRIEF HALT AT A WINE HOUSE NEAR FRESNO, CAL. 
 
 climate, which latter has the pernicious effect of indisposing people 
 to physical or mental effort. In California life is wide-awake and 
 active, laziness is exotic. Well has it been said that "in that 
 refulgent summer it is a luxury to draw the breath of life." 
 
 Returning to our entrance into Southern California after 
 leaving Sacramento, the insight into grape culture and the wine 
 
 93 
 
industry gained at Fresno was of great interest. The party, 
 breaking into several detachments, visited, as has been stated, all 
 the leading vineyards in the vicinity, and the recollection of the 
 hospitality they received at Barton's, Woodvvorth's, Egger's, Eisen's 
 and Forsyth's will long be cherished. Fresno, with its crowded 
 streets and busy stores, impressed them as a wonderfully active 
 place, especially when they learned that it had grown from 600 to 
 14,000 in population during the past ten years. After the 
 luncheon at the Hughes House, Mr. Marcus Pollasky announced 
 that there was to be no speech-making on that occasion, whereupon 
 an hour or so was devoted to making speeches. Dr. Chester 
 Rowell welcomed the guests in a very neat address, and, after the 
 statistics of Fresno County had been exhaustively rehearsed, Mr. 
 M. H. de Young gave the citizens of Fresno some practical advice 
 relative to developing the county's resources by introducing canals 
 and rendering the San Joaquin River navigable, which advice was 
 received with manifest approval. Messrs. Wilde, Martin and Page 
 also addressed the gathering. One distinctive feature of Fresno in 
 which its people take justifiable pride is its claim to the possession 
 of "the finest opera house of any city in America of less than 
 100,000 population." An inspection of the establishment gave the 
 impression that the claim is not an idle boast. An impromptu 
 entertainment was at once started, Mrs. Frank Leslie leading the 
 way with a recitation of the stirring Columbus ode " Sail On," 
 followed by Miss Kate Field and Marshall P. Wilder. 
 
 At Pasadena, on the following day, new charms were brought 
 to view. Orange groves loaded down with golden spheres stretched 
 out on every hand, dotted with cottages and lawns, and back of 
 all snow-capped mountains. Riding in any direction every turn in 
 the road revealed new beauties. Pasadena is the chosen home of 
 the wealthy, and the residences and surroundings bear evidence of 
 
 94 
 
large purses and lavish expenditure. The profusion of flowers 
 threw the visitors from the Atlantic Coast into .ecstasies. The 
 handsome cottages were embowered in the dark green foliage of 
 orange trees, and the gardens were resplendent with brilliant 
 flowers of every possible hue. The valley view from the Raymond 
 Hotel, stretching from the distant ocean to the mountains, is one 
 of surpassing beauty. The party were fortunate in having selected 
 the winter season for visiting Southern California, for at that time 
 of the year that region is most charming, and nature's gifts are 
 most abundantly exhibited. Mr. Charles F. Nordhoff, of the New 
 
 York Herald, whom we met later 
 at. the Coronado Beach Hotel, 
 relates the following experience 
 of a January day in that region : 
 
 "As I drove out from Los 
 Angeles into the country on a 
 January morning with a friend, 
 we met a farmer coming into 
 town with a market wagon of 
 produce. It was a cloudless, 
 warm, sunny day. The farmer's 
 little girl sat on the seat with 
 him, a chubby, blue-eyed little 
 tot, with her sun bonnet half 
 
 hiding her curls, and a shawl, which her careful mother had wrapped 
 about her shoulders, carelessly flung aside. To me, fresh from the 
 snowy plains and Sierras, and with the chill breath of winter still 
 on me, this was a pleasing and novel sight ; but the contents of 
 the man's wagon were still more startling to my Northern eyes. 
 He was carrying to market oranges, pumpkins, a lamb, corn, green 
 peas in their pods, sugar-cane, lemons and strawberries. What a 
 mixture of Northern and Southern products ! What an odd and 
 wonderful January gathering in a farmer's wagon ! . . . All the 
 fence corners, where there were fences, were crowded with the 
 castor oil plant, which is here a perennial, twenty feet high, a weed 
 whose brilliant crimson seed pods shine like jewels in the sunlight. 
 
 A I'ASAUENA RESIDENCE. 
 
 95 
 
Below us as we looked off a hill-top lay the suburbs of Los 
 Angeles, green with the deep green of orange groves and golden 
 to the nearer view with their abundant fruit. Twenty-one different 
 kinds of flowers were blooming in the open air in a friend's garden 
 in the town this January day ; among them the tube-rose, the 
 jessamine and the fragrant stock or gillyflower, which has here a 
 woody stalk, often four inches in diameter, and is, of course, a 
 perennial. The heliotrope is trained over piazzas to the height of 
 twenty feet, and, though the apple and pear orchards, as well as 
 those of the almond and English walnut, will continue bare for 
 some time, and the vineyards, just getting pruned, look dreary, 
 the vegetable gardens are green as with us in June, and men and 
 boys are gathering the orange crop." 
 
 The al fresco dinner under the pepper trees on Judge Silent's 
 lawn in Los Angeles was a charming affair, and, with its numerous 
 apparent incongruities to the Eastern minds of season and locality, 
 would have stood for an Arabian Night's entertainment, held in 
 the daytime. Oriental magic could have easily overcome that 
 latter trifling incompatibility. Los Angeles is said to owe much 
 of its attractiveness to its agreeable surroundings. Certainly the 
 afternoon and evening spent at Rodondo Beach tended to verify 
 that assertion. Among the profusion of flowers at the hotel, 
 which the visitors were graciously invited to help themselves to, 
 were some of the most splendid roses seen on the entire trip. 
 The view from the hotel porch of the sun setting on the Pacific 
 horizon was a fitting termination to a day that had been replete 
 with brilliant and picturesque incident. Los Angeles is situated 
 nearly in the center of one of the richest valleys on this continent. 
 All the citrus family flourishes there to the highest perfection, and 
 horticulture and agriculture are sustained to a degree unsurpassed 
 anywhere. Between five and six thousand carloads of oranges, we 
 were informed, are annually exported thence to Eastern markets, 
 and an equal amount of transportation is required for carrying the 
 crops of dried fruits, raisins, walnuts, wines and potatoes. In 
 
 96 
 
addition to its agricultural capability, the region abounds in other 
 resources, and it is claimed that within thirty miles of Los Angeles 
 there are exhaustless reservoirs of coal oil, immense petroleum and 
 asphalt beds, rich mines of gold and silver, extensive tin deposits 
 and a wide range of valuable metals. With all those natural 
 
 WATCHING THE SUN SET IN THE 1'ACIbTC OCEAN AT RK.lKJNDl) I1EACH. 
 
 endowments, it might compete for the championship with "The 
 Happy Valley" which the imagination of Di. Johnson created for 
 the admiration of the youth of several generations ago, before the 
 advent of Horatio Alger, Jr., or the evolution of the dime novel. 
 
 97 
 
The day at Redlands was one of California's perfect winter 
 days, too warm for wraps, but thoroughly delightful. As the 
 visitors were driven through the stretches of orange groves they 
 were profuse in their expressions of delight, but when Canyon 
 Crest was reached, and the entire valley spread before the vision 
 for miles and miles, the snow-covered tops of Old Baldy, Grayback 
 and San Jacinto glistening in the warm sunlight, they began to 
 realize the full force of California's wondrous scenery and climate, 
 and were silent in their admiration. When the carriages returned 
 to the depot they were laden with flowers and oranges, and 
 Redlands was pronounced the choicest section of California that 
 the party had seen, that, of course, being the regular verdict 
 passed upon each successive town they visited. Arriving at San 
 Bernardino " San Berdoo," as the inhabitants call it the Eastern 
 guests were given a drive over the city, and were afterward 
 entertained with a banquet at the Stewart hotel, at which 150 
 persons sat down. After the solids had disappeared, Judge George 
 E. Otis welcomed the party in a brief speech, and introduced 
 Judge Willis, who responded to the toast "The Press." He was 
 followed by W. A. Harris, in a neat and short address, and Judge 
 Rowell, who gave some statistics regarding the county. Marshall 
 P. Wilder told a story or two, and Mrs. Frank Leslie recited a 
 poem. The banquet was hurried, but successful. The train left 
 San Bernardino at 2.30 P. M. for Riverside. In the San Bernardino 
 range of mountains in this region, on the summit of the Grayback, 
 is an active glacier of dimensions little inferior to some of the 
 minor glaciers of the Alps and the Andes. The existence of this 
 stupendous marvel of moving ice, after having been maintained 
 but not generally believed for half a century, was, in June, 1892, 
 verified by an expedition of scientists from Los Angeles, who 
 discovered at a height of over 10,000 feet a frozen river a mile 
 
 98 
 
long and twenty-two feet in depth that is crushing down towards 
 the valley at the rate of about forty-seven feet yearly. The day was 
 wound up at Riverside, a town then of about 6,000 inhabitants, 
 and possibly by the time of this writing having twice that number, 
 so rapidly do California communities grow when they once take a 
 start. The town owes its existence and prosperity wholly to 
 irrigation, the water of the Santa Ana River having been 
 distributed over an area of about fifty-two square miles, converting 
 an arid desert into an Eden. Riverside is peculiarly an orange 
 city. It covers a large plateau for the most part unbroken by 
 hill or ravine. Some fifteen or twenty thousand acres of this land 
 have been brought under cultivation, about fifteen thousand acres 
 being devoted to citrus fruits. The land is subdivided and owned 
 in small holdings of from five to twenty acres each, and orchard 
 flanks orchard in solid phalanx for miles in all directions. One 
 vast forest of orange trees covers the plain, unbroken, in most 
 part, save by streets or the small plats devoted to residences and 
 ornamental shrubbery. Magnolia avenue extends for many miles, 
 
 being a double drive 125 feet 
 in width, with rows of ever- 
 green shade trees in the center 
 and on either side. Other 
 streets in all other cities fade 
 in comparison with this. The 
 drive that afternoon through 
 Magnolia avenue was most 
 charming. On returning to 
 the depot specimens were ob- 
 tained of genuine "American 
 
 tin " from the near-by Temescal mines, and for days afterward the cars 
 were decorated with branches of Riverside oranges. Twelve hours 
 
 THE CORONADO HOTEL, NEAR SAN DIEGO, CAL. 
 
 99 
 
on the cars brought the party to San Diego, with the consequences 
 already briefly related. The Coronado Beach Hotel is probably 
 the largest caravansary in America ; and all its appointments are 
 most luxurious, and to travelers on the wing, as we were, most 
 temptingly inviting. After lunching there, the party disbanded for 
 a short time, some going to the swimming baths, others to the ball- 
 room to listen to the music of the U. S. S. San Francisco's band, and 
 later the entire party was formally escorted through the hotel and 
 grounds. They were surprised and delighted. Of course, in such 
 a hasty inspection only the more striking features of the place were 
 seen, but they fully bore out the description Charles Dudley 
 Warner gives of the Coronado in his book, " The American 
 Italy." Mr. Warner says : 
 
 " The stranger, when he first comes upon this novel hotel and 
 this marvelous scene of natural and created beauty, is apt to exhaust 
 his superlatives. I hesitate to attempt to describe this hotel, this 
 airy and picturesque and half-bizarre wooden creation of the 
 architect. Taking it and its situation together, I know nothing 
 else in the world with which to compare it, and I have never seen 
 any other which so surprised at first, that so improved on a two 
 weeks' acquaintance, and that has left in the mind an impression 
 so entirely agreeable. It covers about four and a half acres of 
 ground, including an inner court of about an acre, the rich made 
 soil of which is raised to the level of the main floor. The house 
 surrounds this, in the Spanish mode of building, with a series of 
 galleries, so that most of the suites of rooms have a double 
 outlook, one upon this lovely garden, the other upon the ocean or 
 the harbor. The effect of this interior court or patio is to give 
 gaiety and an air of friendliness to the place, brilliant as it is with 
 flowers and climbing vines ; and when the royal and date 'palms 
 that are vigorously thriving in it attain their growth it will be 
 magnificent. Big hotels and caravansaries are usually tiresome, 
 unfriendly places ; and if I should lay too much stress upon the 
 vast dining-room (which has a floor area of 10,000 feet, without 
 post or pillar), or the beautiful breakfast room, or the circular 
 ball-room (which has an area of 11,000 feet, with its timber roof 
 
open to the lofty observatory), or the music-room, billiard-room 
 for ladies, the reading-rooms and parlors, the pretty gallery 
 overlooking the spacious office rotunda, and then say that the 
 whole is illuminated with electric lights, and capable of being 
 heated to any temperature desired, I might convey a false 
 impression as to the actual comfort and homelikeness of this 
 charming place. On the seaside the broad galleries of each story 
 are shut in by glass, which can be opened to admit, or shut to 
 exclude, the fresh ocean breeze. Whatever the temperature 
 outside, those great galleries are always agreeable for lounging or 
 promenading. For me, I never tire of the sea and its changing 
 color and movement. If this great house were filled with guests, 
 so spacious are its lounging places, I should think it would never 
 appear to be crowded ; and if it were nearly empty, so admirably 
 are the rooms contrived for family life, it will not seem lonesome. 
 1 shall add that the management is of the sort that makes the 
 guests feel at home and at rest. Flowers, brought in from the 
 gardens and nurseries, are everywhere in profusion on the dining 
 tables, in the rooms, all about the house. So abundantly are they 
 produced that no amount of culling seems to make an impression 
 upon their mass." 
 
 After inspecting the hotel, the League party were re-escorted 
 across the Bay to San Diego, and were taken on a ride about the 
 city and out on the hills. Fisher's opera house was thrown open 
 for their inspection and admiration. A reception at the parlors of 
 the Hotel Brewster having been announced for five o'clock, all 
 assembled there at that hour, where they met the representative 
 people of the city. One of the most pleasing features of the 
 reception, though entirely impromptu, was the introduction of the 
 newsboys by Captain Friend. The boys listened with marked 
 attention to the remarks of Miss Kate Field and Mr. de Young. 
 At 5.30 the visitors left the Brewster for the train, and on their 
 arrival they found the newsboys arranged in line at the station, 
 who received them with cheers. Miss Kate Field then demanded 
 the boutonieres of the party, and off they came from broadcloth and 
 
satin, and with her own hands Miss Field pinned them on the 
 little fellows' jackets, after which graceful act, which set the 
 urchins to grinning like Cheshire cats, Mrs. Frank Leslie 
 addressed the boys briefly, but feelingly, and promised to "write 
 up " the reception they had given the Eastern travelers. She was 
 followed by Mr. de Young, who gave the lads a fatherly talk, 
 which seemed to impress them. As the train moved out from the 
 depot the crowd on the platform cheered to the echo and was 
 vigorously answered by the departing visitors, the ladies joining in 
 waving their handkerchiefs. That was our final adieu to the Pacific 
 coast, and to the garden region of Southern California. Our faces 
 were now set toward the Atlantic. 
 
 102 
 
CHAPTER iv. 
 
 THE JOURNEY HOME. 
 
 N LEAVING San Diego, on the night of January 
 24th, to set out across the continent directly for 
 home, we took our leave of Mr. and Mrs. de 
 Young, who intended to remain a short time at 
 
 Coronado Beach before returning to San Francisco. 
 
 Mr. Welshons, of Pittsburg, also left us at this point, 
 
 intending to extend his journey to Oregon before 
 returning, and Mr. Koenig, of Chicago, likewise 
 abandoned us here, as he contemplated taking ship to the Sandwich 
 Islands. It was with no genuine good grace that the party turned 
 their backs on the Pacific Ocean, where they had been so cordially 
 received and so magnificently entertained. It was hard to realize 
 that only thirteen days had elapsed since California was entered at 
 Auburn, so many and so marked had been the events in the 
 interval. This was the third Sunday away from home, the first 
 having been spent in crossing the Rocky Mountains at Leadville and 
 Glenwood, and the second at Santa Cruz and San Jose. The 
 next was to bring us back to New York. Soon after leaving 
 San Diego we were regaled with a treat specially gotten up for 
 the League party by our indefatigable hosts of the Atchison, 
 Topeka & Santa Fe" Railroad, acting in collusion with the ever 
 wide-awake Jerome. Arrangements had been made in advance for 
 
 103 
 
illuminating the old San Juan Capistrano Mission building, situated 
 in the Santa Ana valley, about twenty-five miles east of San Diego. 
 This old church had been erected about 150 years previously by 
 pious Spanish monks, who had learned, through some method of 
 Castilian blarney, to overcome the inertia of the aboriginal 
 inhabitants of that region and induce them to actually work, and 
 the walls of adobe, or sun-dried bricks, seemed massive enough to 
 have defied the elements for centuries had there not unluckily come 
 along an earthquake in December, 1812, which destroyed the 
 structure, besides killing thirty of its inmates. The mishap, 
 however, heightened the present picturesqueness of the scene, as in 
 the inky blackness of the night we viewed the shattered walls and 
 the remains of the lofty arches by the glaring light of a huge 
 bonfire that the devotees in charge had prepared at the instigation 
 of the railroad officials. The effect in behalf of a.-sthetie 
 satisfaction produced by seismic disturbance was impressively 
 illustrated, and might suggest a text for some art editor to 
 expatiate upon to advantage, as object lessons in that special 
 branch of culture are frequently obtainable. Some time was spent 
 at San Capistrano exploring the ruins, and examining the chapel 
 that has been refitted for religious purposes, and the few other 
 apartments which were sufficiently preserved to indicate the original 
 majesty of the edifice. It is gratifying to record here the fact 
 that the old San Capistrano Mission building has, since the date 
 of our visit, been taken in charge by the Historical Society of 
 Southern California, and is to be hereafter protected from the 
 combined ravages of decay and relic-hunting vandals. A few 
 weeks subsequent to the passage of the Press Club League, the 
 Society named sent a party of discreet persons to thoroughly 
 inspect the condition of the structure, and they found that a 
 comparatively small expenditure would suffice to preserve it for 
 
 104 
 
many years to come. They reported on their return that " the 
 vastness of the old Mission and the uniqueness of the architecture 
 were a surprise to many. It was found that the large brick 
 arches in the east and south walls of the interior court-yard were 
 still standing almost entire, while about one-half of the north side 
 remains. The front archways to the main building are also in a 
 fair state of preservation, and the portion still occupied as a chapel 
 and residence of the priest, with its coat of whitewash, presents a 
 neat appearance. Of course, the main edifice which was destroyed 
 by the earthquake in 1812 is almost in complete decay, but enough 
 remains of the walls to give a fair idea of the character of the, 
 for that time, magnificent structure. The unused rooms of the old 
 building have a musty, sickening smell, that is almost stifling. The 
 little chapel in use is sweet and clean, having but lately been 
 renovated and repaired. Ancient oil paintings and statues are 
 scattered about, as well as furniture and altar furnishings brought 
 from Spain more than a century ago. There are candelabra of 
 solid silver, and massive sacred emblems of pure gold. The old 
 bells (five in number, one of them dated 1726) still hang in their 
 places and act as solemn monitors to all hearers of their tones, as 
 in the palmy days of yore. A picket fence has been put around 
 the front of the building to keep cattle away, and a little cement 
 here and there, and some new tiles on the roof in spots, will keep 
 the building in repair a long time." 
 
 The next morning, January 25th, we found ourselves on the 
 Mojave Desert. It must have been a most discouraging region in 
 which to build a railroad, but the words Santa Fd mean " Holy 
 Faith," and the projectors of the road that was conveying us must 
 certainly have been inspired by the significance of the phrase. For 
 miles, and hundreds of miles, the road runs through an arid 
 cactus desert, dusty and repellant to the eyes and other senses. 
 
A MOIIAVK IIKI.I.K. 
 
 Along a large portion of the route that day we passed by a 
 
 succession of extinct volcanos, through vast lava fields, whose hard 
 
 material had been worn by the action of 
 the elements, or possibly by the erosive 
 action of some ancient inland sea, into all 
 imaginable and unimaginable shapes. The 
 grotesque formations that line the river 
 beds of the Northwest, through the region 
 which General Hazen immortalized as the 
 " Great Uncultivable American Desert," and 
 known locally in those regions as " Bad 
 Lands," were vividly suggested by the 
 strange and weird shapes that had been 
 assumed by these remains of ancient vol- 
 canic action, recalling General Sully's epito- 
 
 mization of the Terres Mativaises as 
 
 " Hell, with the fires out." In many 
 
 places, seen at a distance lining the hori- 
 zon of that dreary desert, and even closer 
 
 by as we sped rapidly past, the eye seemed 
 
 to dwell upon long ranges of human struct- 
 ures, forts and castles, and towers with 
 
 minarets, and formidable walled cities. 
 
 The impression of human agency in their 
 
 contrivance was pervading and irresistible. 
 
 About noon the train was stopped to allow 
 
 a confab with a band of Indians, the most 
 
 squalid, abject and repulsive masters of 
 
 the soil, probably, to be encountered on 
 
 this continent. Their long hair, ignorant 
 
 of combs, hung over their low foreheads, covering their unwashed 
 
 1 06 
 
 A MOHAVE BOW. 
 
faces and their eyes, and giving them a fierce, animal appearance. 
 The only sign of genuine intelligence they displayed during our 
 brief interview with them was their emphatic disinclination to be 
 made the victims of amateur f photographers. These savages were 
 reported to make their principal diet upon grasshoppers, and, 
 judging from the proximity of their bones to the surface, their 
 supplies must have been short that season. At i p. M. we crossed, 
 at the Needles, from California into Arizona, and there again we 
 stopped for some time to interview a party of Mojave Indians 
 who were lounging about the station to give us a welcome and 
 
 to sell bows and pottery. The 
 men were tall, and not without 
 some semblance to good looks, 
 a quality of which the less than 
 half-clad squaws were utterly 
 destitute. Time was, once, 
 when the Mojaves were famous 
 for their bravery and prowess ; 
 now their leading characteristics 
 are indolence and vice. A 
 member of our party, engaging 
 
 in conversation with one of the few white men that were lounging 
 about the station, drew from that worthy, a very good looking 
 man, a gambler by profession, the following account of the 
 Indians: "We had some trouble with them at first, because they 
 insisted in coming to town dressed wholly in their conscious 
 innocence ; but we finally got together enough second-hand clothes 
 to make them fairly respectable, though far from decent. They do 
 the coarse work about the town, and make enough to live on." 
 Apparently, they need as little food as raiment. So through the 
 alkali dust and amidst wreckage of pre-historic ages we sped 
 
 MOHAVE PEULERS AT THE NEEDLES. 
 
 I0 7 
 
steadily Eastward throughout that and the following day, until at 
 1.30 P. M., on January 26th, we were afforded an opportunity for 
 enjoying one of the most interesting experiences of the whole 
 homeward journey. The train was stopped at a village inhabited 
 by Laguna Pueblo Indians. This unique settlement was composed 
 of a series of adobe structures, planted on a hillside, and built one 
 above the other in terraces like the steps of an enormous stairway. 
 As originally built they had no doors, access to the interiors being 
 gained only by climbing to the roofs with ladders, and descending 
 in like manner through trap 
 doors. The houses in that 
 little community constitute one 
 of the greatest archaeological 
 curiosities of North America, 
 as they are accepted by ethnolo- 
 gists as having pertained to 
 some semi-civilized people that 
 existed, and occupied the soil, 
 and disappeared, wholly prior, it 
 is asserted, to even the advent 
 of the red aborigines. The 
 
 Laguna Indians of the present time have traits and habits that 
 distinguish them from all other tribes of Indians, their persistent 
 living in houses being one of the most marked of these. They 
 have improved upon the plans of the original architects of the 
 place by piercing the walls of each tier of buildings with doorways, 
 and our party, visiting the interiors of these curious relics of 
 pre-historic antiquity, were agreeably surprised at the cleanliness and 
 tidy order that everywhere prevailed. We visited them in their 
 residences, inspected their church, avoided their mangy dogs, and 
 pretty nearly denuded the place of all the pottery it contained, 
 
 THE ANCIENT PUEBLO TOWN OF LAGUNA, N. M. 
 
 108 
 
buying for small sums some very neat and curious specimens 
 of Indian handicraft, quaintly designed. The conventional price 
 asked for a clay image the size of one's thumb, or for a 
 bowl of the same material big enough for a Press Club 
 punch-bowl, was a quarter of a dollar, or, in the vernacular of 
 the Arizona desert, and of the West generally, " two-bits." After 
 hearing this latter phrase constantly repeated, evidently the sum 
 total of Laguna's acquaintance with commercial Anglo Saxon, it 
 was quite startling when a comely maiden, modest and neatly 
 attired, turned to our party and said in excellent English, " I shall 
 be very glad to show you around." It proved on investigation 
 that this young daughter of the desert was a graduate of the 
 Indian school at Carlisle, Pennsylvania. Having been educated 
 after civilized fashion she had returned to her tribe. Who knows 
 what destiny was before her, whether she would succeed in the 
 missionary work of raising her associates toward the plane to which 
 she herself had been raised, or whether, as unfortunately usually 
 happens, she would ultimately relapse into their condition ? Pushing 
 onward at three o'clock, and picking up at some unknown stopping 
 place our old friend, Captain Jack Crawford, "The Poet Scout," 
 we reached Albuquerque, which, at the depot, presented quite a 
 modern, almost an Eastern, appearance, but which, further on, 
 when the Mexican section was penetrated, showed up in the light 
 of an old thriftless, untidy Mexican settlement. However, the 
 leaven of Eastern push has found its way there and the town, 
 despite the sharp line of demarcation between the two sections, is 
 rapidly being Americanized. It contains some very fine buildings, 
 notably the hotel and the Commercial Club, and a newspaper 
 office, nearly completed at the time of our visit, besides electric 
 lights and national banks. In New Mexico the nineteenth century 
 is still struggling to get the better of fifteenth century sluggishness, 
 
 109 
 
but neither the present nor the next generation will witness its 
 success. A committee from the Commercial Club drove us around 
 through this interesting city, with which we would gladly have 
 become more familiar. Our time was brief, however, and we were 
 forced to hurry on, reaching Santa Fe", the famous capital of the 
 territory, at nine o'clock in the evening, nearly eight hours behind 
 the time set down for our arrival, owing to the delays that grew 
 
 STREET SCENE IN SANTA FE. NEW MEXICAN WOOD CAKKIEKS. 
 
 out of the interest we had felt in the several points at which we 
 had been stopping. 
 
 At Santa Fe" the Press League party received a genuine 
 Territorial ovation. The Reception Committee had joined us at 
 Albuquerque, and, although a little dismayed at the interruption to 
 their plans our tardiness occasioned, they did their duty as 
 
entertainers most handsomely. A great crowd was present at the 
 depot on our arrival, and we were bundled without delay into 
 carriages and driven rapidly to the State House, a splendid building 
 to find in such a locality, which had just been completed, and was 
 brilliantly illuminated for our reception, but which was destined to 
 be a few months afterward totally destroyed by fire. The Reception 
 Committee rather prided themselves on this building, as well they 
 might, for it not only was a very imposing edifice, but its whole 
 cost had been paid for out of Territorial funds, a large portion of 
 the surplus apportioned for that purpose having actually been 
 turned in again to the Territorial Treasury. The general circulation 
 of this statement made the New York delegates, especially, gaze 
 at one another in silent, pensive wonderment. Ushered into the 
 Legislative Chamber on the upper floor we found a large 
 assemblage awaiting us, in the galleries, Mexicans ; on the floor, 
 army officers in full uniform, mostly pertaining to the Tenth 
 United States Infantry, which then constituted the garrison of 
 Santa Fe, besides handsome and handsomely dressed ladies and 
 Eastern visitors. Gov. L. Bradford Prince, erstwhile of Long 
 Island, made a very sprightly speech of welcome to the party, the 
 effect of which was sensibly heightened by the commanding figure 
 and sonorous voice of the speaker. Then the Tenth Infantry 
 Band discoursed some patriotic airs, followed by some sweet pretty 
 singing from the voices of about fifty Indian girls from the 
 neighboring Ramona school, who had been awaiting our arrival for 
 eight hours in order to give us that melodious welcome. At the 
 conclusion of the children's singing we were shown through the 
 building and were then rapidly transported to the " Palace," the 
 name which the ancient edifice occupied by the Governor of the 
 Territory has borne for many years. It is a long, one-story 
 building facing the public square, occupied by the post-office and 
 
other government departments, a number of apartments in one end 
 being set aside as the Governor's residence. The appearance of 
 this ancient structure scarcely justifies the conventional suggestions 
 of its name. It was erected in 1598, and has a certain latter-day 
 distinction upon which much stress is laid in the circumstance of 
 its having been occupied by General Lew Wallace while he was 
 Governor of New Mexico, in 1879 an ^ 1880. It was in one of 
 the apartments of this house that he wrote his famous novel, 
 " Ben Hur," and it was in the room in which that book was 
 written that the Press League were received by Governor Prince 
 and his bright and charming 
 wife. The reception was the 
 occasion of a large gathering 
 of the ladies and gentlemen 
 of Santa Fd, including the 
 officers of the Tenth Infantry 
 and the ladies of the garrison. 
 The evening was passed most 
 agreeably in conversation and 
 in the examination of the 
 multitude of local curiosities 
 and old time prints and 
 
 pictures which Governor Prince has gathered during his long 
 residence in New Mexico, the Tenth Infantry Band meanwhile 
 discoursing excellent music. Speaking of the Palace, Governor 
 Prince declared it to be the most interesting place in the country. 
 Certainly no other structure in America has such a history behind 
 it. It antedates the settlement of Jamestown by nine years, and 
 that of Plymouth by twenty-two, and has stood during the two 
 hundred and ninety-two years, since its erection, as the living centre 
 of everything of historic importance in the Southwest. Through 
 
 THE PALACE, SANTA Ffc, N. M. 
 
all that long period, whether under Spanish, Pueblo, Mexican or 
 American control, it has been the seat of power and authority. 
 Whether the ruler was called Viceroy, Captain-General, Political 
 Chief, Department Commander or Governor, and whether he 
 presided over a kingdom, a province, a department or a territory, 
 this has been his official residence. " From here," said Governor 
 Prince, " Onate started in 1599 on his adventurous expedition to 
 the Eastern plains; here, seven years later, eight hundred Indians 
 
 THE OLDEST BUILDING IN AMERICA, AT SANTA HE, N. M. 
 
 came from far-off Ouivira to ask aid in their war with the Aztecs; 
 from here, in 1618, Vincento de Salivar set forth to the Moqui 
 country, only to be turned back by rumors of the giants to be 
 encountered ; and from here Penalosa and his brilliant troop 
 started, on the 6th of March, 1662, on their marvelous expedition 
 to the Missouri ; in one of its strong rooms the commissary 
 general of the Inquisition was imprisoned a few years later by the 
 same Penalosa ; within its walls, fortified as for a siege, the bravest 
 
of the Spaniards were massed in the revolution of 1680; here, on 
 the igth of August of that year, was given the order to execute 
 forty-seven Pueblo prisoners in the plaza which faces the building ; 
 here, but a day later, was the sad war council held which deter- 
 mined on the evacuation of the city ; here was the scene of triumph 
 of the Pueblo chieftains as they ordered the destruction of the 
 Spanish archives and the church ornaments in one grand conflagra- 
 tion ; here De Vargas, on September i4th, 1692, after the eleven 
 hours' combat of the preceding day, gave thanks to the Virgin 
 Mary, to whose aid he attributed his triumphant capture of the 
 city; here, more than a century later, on March 3d, 1807, Lieu- 
 tenant Pike was brought before Governor Alencaster as an invader 
 of Spanish soil; here, in 1822, the Mexican standard, with its eagle 
 and cactus, was raised in token that New Mexico was no longer a 
 dependency of Spain ; here, on the succeeding day, Jose Gonzales, 
 a Pueblo Indian of Taos, was installed as Governor of New 
 Mexico, soon after to be executed by order of Armijo ; here, in 
 the principal reception room, on August 12, 1846, Captain Cooke, 
 the American envoy, was received by Governor Armijo and sent 
 back with a message of defiance ; and here, five days later, General 
 Kearney formally took possession of the city, and slept, after his 
 long and weary march, on the carpeted earthen floor of the Palace." 
 The Governor thinks the ultimate use of the building should be as 
 a home for the antiquities of New Mexico. We slept on our 
 train at the station that night, and early the next morning we 
 were exploring this interesting place which enjoys the distinction 
 of being the most ancient city of the country, and one of the 
 most ancient capitals of the world. It is largely built of adobes, 
 and it abounds in all kinds of interest. For instance, we went 
 into modern stores, and from these we visited the old San Miguel 
 church that retains a great deal of the wood used in its con- 
 
 114 
 
struction more than three hundred years ago, it having been built 
 by the Spaniards in 1545. Near the church is an adobe house 
 reported to be still more ancient, being, in fact, the oldest structure 
 
 built by white men in America. Then 
 we visited the shops and laid in sup- 
 plies of curios, particularly some very 
 fine filagree work in gold and silver. 
 Afterwards, while some of the party 
 drove out to the Ramona school others 
 witnessed a meek performance of guard 
 mounting at Fort Worth, subsequently 
 attending a concert given in honor by 
 the Tenth Infantry Band on the plaza 
 in front of the Palace, at the conclu- 
 sion of which we resumed our places 
 in the train, bearing away with us as 
 guests for the rest of the day Governor 
 and Mrs. Prince and several Santa Fe gentlemen and ladies. 
 
 Our visit to Santa Fe was marked, on the previous evening, 
 by a little episode that at one time seemed likely to create "some 
 excitement, though its secret was so carefully guarded that its 
 narration in these pages will be the first intimation of it to a 
 majority of the League excursionists. It had been the subject 
 of constant regretful comment among the latter that the editors 
 of Eastern newspapers seemed to have an entirely inadequate 
 conception of the striking character and brilliant accompaniments 
 of the journey. With a view to rectifying this state of inappre- 
 ciative apathy, an active member of the party, formerly a resident 
 of the West, organized a little scheme that would have secured 
 extensive Eastern editorial notice for the party could it have 
 been successfully carried into effect. The idea was original, 
 
 THE OLDEST CHURCH IN AMERICA, 
 AT SANTA FE, N. M. 
 
but its overthrow was aboriginal. It had been noticed along the 
 journey that Marshall P.. Wilder was a source of much interest 
 to the Indians, his small figure, droll face and big laugh attracting 
 them immediately. They would often touch him, and seemed 
 to think it did them good, calling him "medicine man, heap 
 head." When it was known we were to remain over night at 
 Santa Fe\ it was planned to have a party of Indians rush into 
 the Governor's Palace during the reception, seixe and carry off 
 Marshall, announcing that they wanted him for their " medicine 
 man," and escape with him to an Indian mud village, several 
 miles in the country, where he would have really experienced a 
 night with the native New. Mexico Indian, with one white com- 
 panion, who knew the chief of the village. The loss would 
 have been heralded abroad in the dispatches that night, and the 
 brave searching party which would have been organized, chiefly 
 from the traveling scribes, armed to the teeth, would have 
 gallantly rescued the little humorist the next morning without 
 bloodshed, and get back in time for the train, covered with glory 
 and New Mexico dirt and dust. Editor Frost, of the New 
 Mexican, Messrs. Wilder, Austin and Penney, representing the 
 Associated and United Press Associations, and the originator of 
 the idea, were the only ones who knew the secret. The Governor 
 was counted on to get out the troops, innocently, of course, and 
 the idea was to be.' worked clear through with the four above 
 mentioned sworn to secrecy for one year. But, alas ; the 
 Indians were lacking, except a few wanderers, who looked so 
 hungry and dirty that they challenged pity instead of suggesting 
 thoughts of danger. Ten o'clock came and the band of Indians 
 was not forthcoming. Still, the schemers waited and hoped, 
 with scouts out in search of fierce red men. Then, finally, Wilder 
 began to object. He thought it would be best for him to first 
 
 116 
 
telegraph his father in New York, so that he would receive the 
 dispatch before he read the awful news in the morning papers, 
 explaining that while Marshall had been captured by the Indians, it 
 was "all right," and they would let him go after he had told a 
 few stories and taught them some tricks they already knew better 
 than he did himself. At 1 1 o'clock (which was i A. M. in New 
 York) the Indian organizers gave it up, and thus a startling 
 sensation was spoiled. But if a band of red men had happened 
 
 along that night they would 
 have received a welcome that 
 would have startled their native 
 minds and appeased their most 
 
 Wk dE-IV" ?_jH fik thirsty palates. No matter what 
 
 their tribe, the New Mexico 
 editor exacted a promise that 
 they should be called Apaches, 
 for he didn't like Apaches. 
 
 We arrived in the after- 
 noon at the "city" of Las 
 Vegas. This commercial center 
 of New Mexico, of which we 
 enjoyed a hasty view, rejoices 
 in six bright and able news- 
 papers, and in a city hall, the only municipal building in the 
 territory. It lies on both sides of the Rio Gallinas, which is 
 spanned by a substantial iron bridge. The place bears numerous 
 evidences of a go-ahead spirit among its people, the streets and 
 residences being lighted by electric lights and gas, and street cars 
 traversing its more important thoroughfares. But a short stop was 
 made there, however, when we were switched on to a branch road 
 and a ride of five miles carried us to the splendid Montezuma 
 
 MARSHALL P. WILDER ENTERTAINING THE 
 INDIANS AT THE NEEDLES, CAL, 
 
 117 
 
hotel on the crest of a lofty hill, overlooking the hot springs 
 which have made the locality famous. The Montezuma Hotel is 
 the finest hostelry between St. Louis and the Pacific coast, and 
 the A., T. and S. F. Railroad Company has expended many 
 thousands of dollars to perfect every detail. The dining-room is 
 one of the largest and most elegant on the American continent. 
 The party amused themselves riding on burros, presenting thereby 
 an appearance of indescribable dignity, inspecting the attractions of 
 the hotel and exploring the natural beauties of the locality, winding 
 up with a State dinner in the fine dining room, at which the regu- 
 lation speeches were made on both sides, and at six o'clock we 
 were under way again. 
 
 That night we passed through the famous Raton Tunnel, and 
 afterward, with a powerful engine at each end of the train, on 
 emerging into Colorado, we made a descent of sixteen hundred 
 feet in twenty miles. Notwithstanding both engines had their 
 driving-wheels reversed, we shot down the mountain at such a 
 rapid rate as to cause the sparks to fly in a continuous shower 
 through the friction of the brake shoes against the wheels of the 
 . cars. The beauties of the region were wholly lost to us in the 
 blackness of the night, but we had more fire-works than were 
 really enjoyable. 
 
 Nothing of special interest happened to mar the monotony of 
 the next day's ride through Colorado, excepting the geographical 
 fact that at 8.15 \. M. we crossed the State line into Kansas. On 
 that evening a particularly pleasant social event was celebrated in 
 the Windermere, which, through being exclusively occupied by 
 married persons, had received from the irreverent bachelors of the 
 party the appellation of " Matrimonial Car." The fact had become 
 known that January 28th was the second anniversary of the wedding 
 of Delegate George F. Lyon, of the New York Press Club, and 
 
 118 
 
>--' ^ 
 
 THE BOSTON PRESS CLUB DELEGATES. 
 
 E. J. CARPENTER, 
 J. C. MORSE, W. B. SMART, 
 
 \V. V. ALEXANDER, 
 
 W. C. GROUT. 
 
 DELEGATES FROM SYRACUSE, BUFFALO AND BALTIMORE. 
 
 E. J. FI.KURY, S. G. LAI-HAM, 
 
 B. R. NEWTON, 
 E. H. O'HARA, J. S. STII.LMAN. 
 
his charming wife, and their friends in that car prepared to 
 celebrate the occasion with a surprise party. Accordingly, about 
 eight o'clock, the seats and aisles of the Windermere were suddenly 
 crowded by an irruption from the other cars on the train, and the 
 young couple, to their gratified astonishment, found themselves the 
 special centers of attraction to a large assemblage, who proceeded 
 with merry informality to offer them every friendly congratulation 
 that the occasion could suggest. A jollier anniversary was never 
 celebrated. There was music, and there was speech-making, of 
 course, and a general interchange of matrimonial experiences, which, 
 by the brilliant coloring with which it invested the connubial 
 state, so wrought upon the tender sensibilities of the unmarried 
 guests that they found themselves constrained, men and women, to 
 explain the reasons that had impelled them to remain single. It 
 would be interesting, but manifestly improper, to reveal those 
 confidences. The whole affair was charming, as a spontaneous 
 testimonial of friendly regard, and it will doubtless be a cherished 
 remembrance to the couple in whose honor it was devised, as it 
 assuredly will be an agreeable one to all the other participants. 
 
 Reaching Kansas City shortly after midnight on January agth, 
 we were transferred to the Wabash Railroad, parting regretfully 
 from our courteous hosts of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe 
 Railroad, who had been our escorts since leaving Los Angeles on 
 January 22d. During that interval we had ridden on the tracks of 
 that mighty organization 3,701 miles, the longest run we made on 
 any single road in the entire journey. That forenoon we reached 
 St. Louis. 
 
 Now, when the flying party of Press Clubbers reached St. 
 Louis, heading Eastward, on the morning of January 2gth, they 
 began to feel themselves almost at home again, and to imagine 
 that they already could catch the scent of the Atlantic. But there 
 
 120 
 
were some dainty experiences still in store for them, without an 
 account of which this narrative would be incomplete, though, were 
 an attempt made to relate them in detail, with full accent upon all 
 their enjoyable incidents, and with proper proportionate allowance 
 for their varieties of elegance and novelty and enthusiastic 
 hospitality, this volume might well swell into a series, and this 
 modest tale of travel be expanded into the dimensions of the tail 
 of a comet. The representative citizens of St. Louis, on the day 
 preceding the arrival of the Wagner train, had appointed a special 
 Reception Committee for the entertainment of the guests, and a 
 most expert committee it proved to be, each member thereof 
 taking special charge of a carriage load of the visitors, for whose 
 instruction and edification he displayed unremitting solicitude. 
 Arriving at the depot at 11.15 o'clock, the party were without 
 delay conveyed in carriages to the Merchants' Exchange and were 
 ceremoniously ushered into the great hall, whereupon the bulls 
 and bears at once ceased their shouting and cavorting, and came 
 out of the "pit" to gaze upon the faces of the interested guests. 
 The van of the procession was led by the Reception Committee, 
 and they marched straight for the rostrum, where sat Mayor 
 Noonan, President Walbridge, of the City Council, Acting 
 President Delafield, of the Merchants' Exchange, and other 
 prominent citizens. The visitors were welcomed by Acting 
 President Delafield on behalf of the Exchange, and Mayor 
 Noonan for the city. Mr. Frank Gaienne and other St. Louisans 
 also made a few remarks. They were followed on behalf of the 
 League party by Mr. Keenan, Miss Kate Field, Mrs. Leslie and 
 Marshall P. Wilder. After the speech-making was over, the 
 delegation took carriages for a drive through the parks and 
 boulevards, and then they repaired to the Fair Grounds to partake 
 of a handsome banquet spread by the St. Louis Jockey Club, 
 
 121 
 
where appropriate toasts were proposed and responded to by 
 Mayor Noonan, Secretary Price and others in the usual way. At 
 seven o'clock that evening the tourists left for the East. The 
 enterprise of St. Louis journalism was displayed in the wholesale 
 interviewing with which the papers were embellished that evening 
 and the following day. Eugene Field and Nelly Ely, especially, 
 neither of whom was or had been in the party, were subjected to 
 a series of interrogatories respecting the experiences they had 
 encountered and the ideas they had picked up on the California 
 trip, their duly recorded responses to which excited the envy of 
 the traveling scribes, whose most brilliant imaginative (lights had 
 never soared to such an altitude of fabulous construction. The 
 published comments, also, alleged to have been uttered by Mr. 
 William Wilde and Mrs. Leslie Wilde and Miss Field were only 
 equalled in vigor of inaccuracy by the utterly misleading descriptive 
 comments published in regard to several members of the party. 
 This almost super-mundane journalistic gift is essentially a Western 
 aptitude, that, as everybody knows, has no equivalent in the East. 
 It will not bear Oriental transplanting. It was, for instance, a 
 notable fact, and one that had given rise to much expression of 
 regret, that Col. John A. Cockerill, President of the New York 
 Press Club, was unable to accompany the party. That trifling 
 circumstance, however, seemed to impart a special spur to the 
 energy with which the reporters of the San Francisco papers 
 interviewed him at the numerous hotels he patronized during the 
 few days of his supposititious visit to that city. 
 
 At seven o'clock we were again under way, still on the Wabash 
 Railroad, in our luxurious Wagner palaces, whose attractiveness 
 seemed to increase as the time we were to enjoy them diminished. 
 After dinner the tables were removed from the dining car, and, 
 the passengers being seated, Mr. Berri, Chairman of the New 
 
 122 
 
EASTERN AND WESTERN DELEGATES AND GUESTS. 
 
 E. B. FISHER, 
 
 SAM. C. AUSTIN, 
 
 C. C. SMITH, 
 
 GEO. H. LOWEKKE. 
 
York delegation, presented, on behalf of the assembled delegates, an 
 elegant silver salad bowl to Mr. and Mrs. Yager, accompanying the 
 presentation with a happy little speech that admirably expressed 
 the sentiment of the donors, and brought blushes of modest 
 pleasure to the cheeks of the recipients. Mr. Yager thanked the 
 party briefly, whereupon Mr. Berri proceeded, on behalf of the 
 same constituency, to present a handsome silver set to Mr. Jerome. 
 That modest bachelor was so overcome with emotion that he 
 was obliged to secure the services of Miss Kate Field to give his 
 thanks expression. Seal rings, with their initials set in diamonds, 
 were likewise presented to Mr. Cornell, chief of the dining car, 
 and Mr. Morrison, the conductor, who had accompanied the train 
 through the entire journey, and to whom every person of the 
 party was indebted for courtesies innumerable. Nor was that 
 important functionary, the chef, forgotten. The recollection of 
 many savory meals he had prepared, and the consciousness of the 
 general increase of avoirdupois which was attributed to his skill, 
 were testified to in the shape of a handsome scarf pin, the 
 acceptance of which brought to his cheeks a more ruddy glow 
 than that they bore when he was officiating over the fires of his 
 range. A speech being insisted upon, he shuffled forward with his 
 white cap in his hand, and explained his position in sententious 
 style : " I's a fuss rate cook, but I ain't no actor, so you must 
 'scuse me from makin' a speech." We had encountered others 
 through the previous few weeks who, like him, were "no actors," 
 but, alas, they did not always seek to be excused. 
 
 At noon, on January 3Oth, we arrived at Toledo, and it seemed 
 as though the whole city was on the alert for our reception, 
 thanks to the efforts of the delegates from that city, Messrs. 
 Boyle and Murphy. The Toledo visit was simply exquisite. After 
 being formally welcomed by the Hon. Frank H. Hurd, at the 
 
 124 
 
Chamber of Commerce, and listening to the sprightly response of 
 Delegate W. V. Alexander, of Boston, a banquet was partaken of 
 at the elegant Club House. That repast was really remarkable for 
 its elegance, variety and profusion. The floral display was 
 magnificent, considering the latitude and the season of the year. 
 At every plate was a beautiful hand-painted souvenir menu. Most 
 delightful of all, however, were the gracious courtesies of the 
 ladies, who vied with the men of Toledo in giving the party a 
 hearty reception. 
 
 On leaving Toledo we left also the delegates from Pittsburg, 
 who returned home from that city. However, we were rejoiced to 
 find that many of our entertainers were to accompany us to 
 Detroit, where, at 3.30 o'clock that afternoon, the special train 
 pulled into the Michigan Central depot. The party were 
 immediately taken in hand by the local reception committee and 
 handed into carriages, and were driven up Jefferson avenue to the 
 Museum of Art, where half an hour was spent in admiring its 
 contents. Repairing then to the Russell House, an opportunity 
 was given to become acquainted with our hosts and hostesses. 
 For three-quarters of an hour the corridors and parlors of the 
 hotel were thronged, and impromptu receptions were in progress 
 on every hand. In one parlor Miss Kate Field was the centre of 
 a group, among whom were Hon. Alfred Russell, Hon. Don. M. 
 Dickinson, Richard Storrs Willis and Mrs. Herman Dey. In other 
 parlors similar coteries were gathered, while the rank and file 
 scattered about and enjoyed themselves as best suited their fancy. 
 At 5.30 o'clock the doors of the dining room were thrown open 
 and the guests filed in. In a few moments the room was 
 transformed into a scene of gaiety unsurpassed. A large 
 representation of Detroit's citizenship was present. Among the 
 invited guests were Mr. and Mrs. Richard Storrs Willis, Mrs. 
 
 125 
 
John J. Bagley, Col. William Ludlow, U. S. A., Mrs. Campau 
 Thompson, Mrs. Herman Dey, Alfred Russell, ex-Postmaster- 
 General Dickinson and others. An hour or so was spent in the 
 discussion of an elegant menu. The appetites being finally 
 appeased, Mr. William E. Quinby, Chairman of the Reception 
 Committee, rapped for order and called upon the Mendelsohn 
 Quartet for a vocal selection. Mr. Quinby then welcomed the 
 guests and introduced as the first speaker the Hon. Don. M. 
 Dickinson, ex- Postmaster-General. Mr. Dickinson, who was greeted 
 with a round of cheers, expressed a hearty welcome to the visitors 
 on behalf of the citizens of Detroit. He paid a handsome tribute 
 to the ladies of the party, which brought out several "ohs" and 
 "mys" in different parts of the room. He thought it would be 
 well if the ladies always attended banquets, although he could not 
 sincerely say the men would have a better time if they should. The 
 "ahs" were in the majority at this remark. Mr. Dickinson dwelt 
 warmly upon the prospects of Detroit as a future seaport. He 
 said: "We are to have direct connection with tide-water and, in the 
 course of time, we will trade direct with Liverpool and the ports 
 of South America without change of bulk. We are bound to get 
 it, and the great Northwest, an empire in itself, will hew and 
 dig and blast away until we do get it. The time will come when 
 we can load our own ships at our doors with provisions for 
 starving Russia without asking your leave of Congress." Mr. 
 Dickinson was succeeded by Delegate T. H. Martin, of Philadelphia, 
 and Miss Kate Field, of Washington, and the entertainment was 
 brought to a cheery close by the "Modocs" of the Wagner Buffet 
 car giving one of their characteristic demoniacal war whoopSj after 
 hearing which no person felt any desire to prolong the sitting 
 another instant. But the day's festivities were by no means ended. 
 Hardly had the banquet hall been vacated when the guests entered 
 
 126 
 
the carriages and were driven to the residence of General R. A. 
 Alger. Here they were received by General and Mrs. Alger, their 
 daughters and sons. The elegant home, with its wealth of paintings, 
 was for more than an hour a brilliant scene. The guests were 
 continually on the move, and many acquaintances were formed that 
 will long be treasured by the participants. Among the diversions 
 
 VIEW (IK NIAGARA KA1.I.S FROM THE CANADIAN SIDE. 
 
 was a humorous speech of Col. William Ludlow on the " Army 
 and Navy," and several stories were told by Marshall P. Wilder. 
 General Alger himself was called upon to speak during the 
 evening, and responded with graceful eloquence. 
 
 At eleven o'clock we took the train again. It was the last 
 
 127 
 
night we were to enjoy its hospitable shelter. With great regret, 
 a sentiment that was experienced on both sides, we took leave 
 here of our fidus Achates Jerome, of ever blessed memory. 
 Wearied with the excitements of the day, the party were soon 
 wrapped in slumber, and it seemed as though they had hardly fallen 
 asleep when they were routed out again at seven o'clock on 
 
 EMERGING FROM THE HIGHLANDS ON THE NEW YORK CENTRAL R. R. 
 
 Sunday, January 3151, to view the beauties of Niagara Falls in its 
 winter garb. Fortified with a hasty cup of coffee they were 
 speedily seated in sleighs and comfortably wrapped in warm robes, 
 were whisked away for an hour's ride, in which they were afforded 
 an excellent sight of the Rapids and the river and the Falls from 
 every advantageous point of view. The spectacle is always 
 
 128 
 
impressive, marvelous and grand, at whatever season it is enjoyed, 
 but it must be confessed that its sublimity is somewhat cramped 
 when it is partaken of on an empty stomach. It was interesting 
 on returning to the train to note how, after a hot breakfast had 
 been eaten, the enthusiasm of the party burst forth, afresh, as the 
 cataract itself was destined to do when relieved of its icy fetters 
 and polar ornamentation. 
 
 Now, all interest was centered upon reaching home. The 
 party was rapidly diminishing in numbers, and leave-taking was in 
 
 N'EAKING HOME. HIGH UK1DGH., ON THE HARLEM RIVER. 
 
 order. At Syracuse, Rochester and Albany guests and delegates 
 who had joined us there on the outward trip bade us adieu, and 
 by nightfall almost the only remaining occupants of the train were 
 the New York delegation and a few from Boston and Philadelphia. 
 There was one more little social incident to occur. We had been 
 rejoined at Niagara by Mr. Roach, Mr. Underwood, of the 
 Michigan Central, leaving us at that point. When night came and 
 we were rattling down the shore of the Hudson at the rate of 
 
 129 
 
about sixty-five miles an hour, Mr. Roach was presented by Mr. 
 Berri, on behalf of the whole delegation, with a set of silver, for 
 which he returned thanks in a neat little response that effectually 
 confirmed his reputation as a ready speaker. 
 
 At jo r. M. we were in the Grand Central depot, at our 
 journey's end. 
 
 Brundnsi-iim longae Jim's chartacqnc viacque. 
 
CHAPTER v. 
 <& 
 
 THE WAGNER PALACE TRAIN AND OUR RAILROAD HOSTS. 
 
 * 
 
 H E trip was ended. It had been one of unalloyed 
 enjoyment. The party of 120 men and women found 
 themselves again at their point of departure without 
 the occurrence of a single mishap to mar the record 
 of nearly four weeks of pleasurable excitement and 
 incessant activity. In that interval they had been 
 carried twice across the breadth of the continent ; 
 had visited all the places of interest on their route ; 
 had received entertainment such as had seldom, if ever before, 
 been tendered to strangers on the wing, and had, furthermore, in 
 various ways contributed to the making of history. Not the least 
 noteworthy of these was the manner in which the details of the 
 journey had been conducted. In truth, the whole success of the 
 trip was due to the magnificent provision made for their 
 entertainment by the officials of the New York Central Railroad 
 Company conjointly with those of the Wagner Palace Car 
 Company. The former gave the use of its tracks, and the power 
 of its potent influence exercised magic sway on every road the 
 train traveled over. The Wagner Company supplemented this by 
 tendering to the delegates the most sumptuously appointed and 
 most profusely stocked special train of vestibuled palace cars that 
 ever set out from the Grand Central Depot. Every attribute of 
 
comfort, ease and luxurious satisfaction that modern ingenuity has 
 devised for the gratification of the traveling public, was combined 
 in that special train, and, what was more to the purpose, it was 
 there to be used and to be enjoyed to the utmost. The train, 
 composed of six cars, represented the highest development of 
 railway luxury. First was the Buffet smoking car, " No. 655," 
 followed by two sleeping cars, the "Westmoreland" and 
 " Wi.ndermere." Then came the dining car in the center of the 
 train. The last two cars were the " Raeburn " and the "Magenta," 
 the latter being divided into state-room compartments. The whole 
 train was warmed with steam and Baker heaters, and lighted by 
 gas, though there was prudently an abundance of auxiliary oil and 
 bracket candle lamps, to be used when the gas gave out. Each 
 car was supplied with hot and cold water. The interiors were 
 upholstered to correspond with the wood work with silk damask, 
 bordered with plush. It was claimed to be the heaviest solid 
 vestibule train that ever made the round trip between New York 
 and San Francisco. At every station where it stopped it excited 
 the greatest admiration and praise, and the loudest of all to 
 proclaim its beauty and magnificence were the railroad men, who 
 flocked to the depots to inspect it. Nothing that skill and 
 enterprise could devise was lacking in its equipment, and it was 
 complacently claimed by the travelers that it was superior to the 
 train which shortly before had conveyed President Harrison's party 
 on its trip to the Pacific coast. The Wagner people determined 
 that the newspaper men should have no possible chance for adverse 
 criticism, and they carried their intentions out to the very letter. 
 The only reasonable criticism the guests could conjure up was based 
 upon the lavish character of their entertainment. A more efficient 
 crew of attendants never accompanied a train. Every man knew 
 his business and, therefore, every want of the passengers was cared 
 
 132 
 
for. There were in all twenty employe's, consisting of the 
 conductor, steward, barber, four cooks, five waiters, six porters and 
 the baggagemen. In regard to the cooking there was nothing left 
 to be desired, and from the first day that the party dined on the 
 outward journey to the return to New York there was no room 
 for the slightest complaint. The service on the part of the 
 steward, Mr. E. L. Cornell, and his efficient aids would challenge 
 comparison with that of the best hotels in the United States. 
 The favorite resort of the gentlemen, particularly the unmarried 
 ones, on the trip was the buffet smoker. It was a thing of beauty 
 and a joy, and without it the pleasure of the trip would have been 
 immeasureably lessened. This traveling club-house was finished in 
 oak and mahogany. The forward part was used for baggage. 
 Next came a bath-room, and adjoining the bath was the barber's 
 room, containing a barber's chair, in which, thanks to the skill of 
 Mr. Frank, the tonsorial artist who presided, the requirements of 
 the travelers in his line could be attended to with almost as much 
 satisfaction at a forty mile gait, as under the most favorable 
 conditions in a barber shop on terra firma. Next to the barber 
 shop were two sections that could be used for card playing. I 
 do not state that they were so utilized, however. These two 
 sections could be entirely shut off from the other portions of the 
 car by means of a mahogany partition and plush curtains. Back 
 of this adjustable section was a writing desk, furnished with 
 stationery on tap, and all the conveniences for correspondence or 
 telegraphing, while on the other side, Mr. W. Archer, the 
 stenographer from Mr. Yager's New York office, with his writ- 
 ing machine, was located. His services were placed at the 
 disposal of the travelers, and were in steady requisition. The 
 central portion of the buffet car was devoted to the smokers. 
 Here there were large moveable easy chairs of oak and cane, 
 
 133 
 
heavily upholstered with plush. " Standing room only," was 
 almost invariably the condition in this part of the train after 
 meals and during the evening. Long will the remembrance 
 abide of the funny stories, the racy anecdotes, the recitations, the 
 shop talk, the schemes of organization, the earnest debates and 
 the hot-headed discussions, as well as the effervescences of high- 
 flown rhetoric, and the bursts of eloquence that were steadily 
 in progress in that buffet car during the trip. Neither will the 
 war whoop of " the Modocs " be readily forgotten. Next in 
 order came the most extensively patronized of all the special 
 departments of the train. This was the buffet itself, from which 
 the rubicund Dan, or his sober-minded companion Gates, incessantly 
 peered, awaiting calls for lemonade, ginger ale, sarsaparilla and 
 soda, or occasionally the foaming beer bottle. There, also, was 
 a library of admirably selected books, which served to beguile 
 many a leisure hour to all the passengers on the train. Next to 
 the buffet car was the Westmoreland, the "Stag Car" as it was 
 designated, being occupied exclusively by the bachelors of the 
 party. In the other cars were the married delegates and the 
 ladies and other guests. The dining car was one of the hand- 
 somest ever constructed, and, of course, of the most approved 
 pattern, the old style of section seats having been superseded by 
 the substitution of chairs. On the left side of the car, as the 
 illustration shows, were tables accommodating four persons, and 
 on the right side there were tables seating two each, thus giving 
 ample room for passing back and forth. Thirty persons could 
 be served at one time. What added greatly to the convenience 
 and enjoyment of the trip was the circumstance already alluded 
 to, that all the tables in the car could be removed and a change 
 could be made into a traveling hall, where frequent entertain- 
 ments were given during the trip. 
 
 134 
 
The guests of the trip were attentively cared for. Mrs. 
 Frank Leslie occupied a drawing-room section in the Raeburn, 
 and was very comfortably situated. Mr. Willie Wilde occupied 
 a section to himself, just outside. Miss Kate Field was assigned 
 a state-room in the last car of the train the Magenta in which 
 car were most of the officers of the League and their wives and 
 invited guests. This car was one of particularly elegant con- 
 struction and convenience, the state-rooms being so arranged 
 that they could, if desired, be joined in suites. 
 
 Despite the size and weight of this great train, it arrived at 
 its destination half an hour ahead of its schedule time, and this 
 in the face of the severe storms that accompanied it in its entire 
 trip from New York to San Francisco. It is a remarkable fact 
 that there was not a hot box during the whole journey, though 
 the brake-shoes were almost worn through on account of t he- 
 enormous and arduous amount of work done on the heavy grades 
 over the Rockies and Sierras. "There were served," says 
 Statistician Morse, of the Boston Press Club, "about 125 people 
 per day. The train was provisioned at New York with groceries, 
 etc., for the round trip, while perishable supplies were purchased 
 en route. The train was equipped, in addition to other essential 
 articles, with 1,000 sheets, 1,000 slips, 2,500 hand towels, 500 
 barber towels, 50 glass towels, 500 table cloths, 1,500 napkins 
 and 650 doylies. The expense of the washing for the trip was 
 over $400, laundry work having to be done at San Bernardino 
 and San Francisco. Everything was as bright and clean and 
 as fresh on the return to New_York as had been the case at the 
 departure." 
 
 That everything was so admirably contrived for the enjoyment 
 of the whole trip, was in a very large measure due to the execu- 
 tive abilities and energetic efforts of Messrs. W. B. Jerome, 
 
 ,36 
 
General Western ~ Passenger "Agent ; of "the" 'New"" York Central 
 Railroad, and Mr. J. C. Yager, the Eastern Superintendent of 
 the Wagner Palace Car Company. Mr. Jerome was the railway 
 representative on the entire trip from Chicago, and the manner 
 in which he attended to his portion of the duties called forth the 
 highest praise from every member of the party. Mr. Jerome is a 
 native of Auburn, N. Y., and has occupied his present responsible 
 position about ten years. 
 
 The excellence of the internal economy of the train and the 
 service and discipline were due to the presence of Superintendent 
 of the Wagner Palace Car Company John C. Yager. That gentle- 
 man made it a point to anticipate the wants of every one on the 
 train, and any suggestion that came to his ears received instant 
 attention. He seemed to be omnipresent. He omitted nothing. 
 He watched everything. Mr. Yager was born in Piqua, Ohio, 
 and has been connected with sleeping car companies for the past 
 sixteen years, during seven of which he has occupied the position 
 of Eastern Superintendent for the Wagner Company, having 
 charge of all lines east of Buffalo, with headquarters at New 
 York. 
 
 Another railway official who left no stone unturned to secure 
 for the delegates the unprecedented comfort that they enjoyed, 
 and who succeeded admirably therein, was Mr. Milton C. Roach, 
 General Eastern Passenger Agent of the New York Central and 
 Hudson River Railroad. Mr. Roach not only accompanied the 
 party as far as Chicago, but also delighted the many friends that 
 he made on the outward trip by returning from Niagara Falls to 
 New York with them. 
 
 To Mr. George H. Daniels, of the New York Central Rail- 
 road, is due a large share of credit, for it was he who made it 
 possible for his subordinates to perform their work so well, and 
 
 138 
 
DR. A. S. HUNTER, 
 W. B. JEROME, 
 
 GUESTS AND RAILROAD OFFICIALS. 
 J. SEAVER PAGE, 
 M. C. ROACH, 
 
 M. H. BROWN, 
 J. C. YAGER. 
 
it was he who made all the preliminary arrangements for the 
 journey, that resulted in such wholesale success. Mr. E. J. 
 Richards, Assistant General Passenger Agent, was also solicitious 
 for our welfare, accompanying the party to Albany on the outward 
 trip, and meeting it again on the return, to escort it through 
 New York State to its starting point. 
 
 Nothing, in fact, could surpass the watchful care with which 
 the Eastern travelers were unremittingly surrounded by their rail- 
 road hosts and protectors. Up the mountains and down the 
 mountains, through narrow and precipitous passes, past craggy 
 ledges and by the edges of rivers the train was borne along at 
 sometimes startling speed, but the passengers were relieved from 
 all sense of nervousness by the knowledge that their immediate 
 destinies were in the charge of the Napoleonic Jerome, unruffled, 
 alert, unsleeping, all observant, and always thoroughly master of 
 the situation. If the journey, in all its perfect details, realized 
 the notion of "the poetry of travel," Jerome was the poet laureate 
 to whom was due the even smoothness that marked its cadenced 
 rhythm. Then, too, over each road that was traversed the party 
 was escorted by some of its highest officials. The narrative of 
 the journey would be incomplete without a detailed record of the 
 gentlemen who accompanied the delegates over the lines of road 
 they severally represented, and to whom the travelers desire, 
 through this medium, to express their earnest thanks. They were : 
 
 J. C. YAGER, Division Superintendent of the Wagner Palace Car Company, 
 representing his company on the entire trip (accompanied by Mrs. Yager). 
 
 W. B. JEROME, General Western Passenger Agent of the New York Central 
 and Hudson River Railroad, representing his company the entire trip 
 from Chicago to San Francisco, and returning, to Detroit. 
 
 E. J. RICHARDS, Assistant General Passenger Agent New York Central Rail- 
 road, from New York to Albany. 
 
 M. C. ROACH, General Eastern Passenger Agent, New York Central Railroad, 
 New York to Chicago, and return from Niagara Falls. 
 
 140 
 
W. H. UNDERWOOD, Eastern Passenger Agent, Michigan Central Railroad, New 
 .York to Chicago, and Detroit to Buffalo on return. 
 
 C. L. LEONORI, General Commissary, Wagner Palace Car Company, Buffalo 
 
 to Chicago. 
 
 JAMES GIBSON, District Passenger Agent, Chicago and Northwestern Railway, 
 Chicago to Omaha. 
 
 B. S. ANDREWS, of the Passenger and Ticket Department, Chicago and North- 
 
 western Railway, Chicago to Denver. 
 
 D. E. BURLEY, of the Passenger Department, Union Pacific Railway, Omaha 
 
 to Denver. 
 
 S. K. HOOPER, General Passenger and Ticket Agent, Denver and Rio Grande 
 Railroad, Denver to Salt Lake. 
 
 F. A. WADLEIGH, Assistant General Passenger Agent, Denver and Rio Grande 
 Railroad, Denver to Grand Junction. 
 
 J. J. BURNS, Superintendent of First Division, Denver and Rio Grande Rail- 
 road, Colorado Springs to Glenwood Springs. 
 
 C. C. SMITH, Assistant General Passenger Agent, Rio Grande Western Rail- 
 
 way, Grand Junction to Ogden. 
 
 W. L. KNIGHT, Traveling Passenger Agent, Southern Pacific Railway, Ogden 
 to San Francisco and Los Angeles. 
 
 W. C. MORROW, of the Passenger Department, Southern Pacific Railway, 
 Ogden to San Francisco and Los Angeles. 
 
 E. F. BURNETT, Passenger Agent, Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad, 
 
 from Los Angeles to Kansas City, Mo. 
 
 F. CHANDLER, General Passenger and Ticket Agent, Wabash Railroad Com- 
 
 pany, Kansas City to Detroit. 
 
 H. DURAND, Passenger Department, Wabash Railroad Company, Kansas City 
 to St. Louis. 
 
 This record of our railroad hosts should include the names of 
 Dr. Seward Webb, President, and Mr. C. D. Flagg, Vice-President 
 of the Wagner Palace Car Company, who directed that the special 
 Wagner train be placed at the disposal of the League and made 
 the agreeable trip possible. 
 
 Railroad officials deserving of most honorable and grateful 
 mention, besides those named above, are, Mr. O. W. Ruggles, 
 General Passenger and Ticket Agent, Michigan Central Railroad ; 
 Mr. W. F. White, Passenger Traffic Manager, Atchison, Topeka 
 
 141 
 
& Santa Fe" Railroad Company, and Mr. C. P. Huntington, 
 President Southern Pacific Company. 
 
 A further illustration of the solicitude shown for the Press 
 Club party by their railroad entertainers was afforded in the 
 circumstance of their inviting Dr. Alexander S. Hunter, one of 
 New York's distinguished physicians, to take part in the trip, 
 in the capacity of special medical attendant. Dr. Hunter was 
 accompanied by his estimable wife. His own genial presence 
 was a continuous tonic and stimulant, and possibly to the con- 
 fidence imparted by that attractive quality on his part was due 
 the unusual fact of a party of over a hundred 
 persons making a continued journey of nearly 
 nine thousand miles without any one of the 
 number falling sick or in any serious way 
 requiring medical attendance. 
 
 In fact, the personnel of the party was, 
 throughout, all that could have been desired 
 to render the trip a success. The subject 
 must not be closed without mentioning the 
 attendance on the route of a phantom guest, 
 who turned up regularly at every stopping 
 place, and was a welcome participant in the 
 
 entertainments provided for the travelers, disappearing, however, 
 as soon as preparations began for resuming the journey. This 
 mysterious traveling companion was Mr. H. W. Chapin, of Syracuse, 
 a popular member of the Press Club of that city. By careful 
 study and manipulation of the time tables, Mr. Chapin managed 
 to secure a train just in advance of the " Wagner special," so as to 
 be regularly on hand to welcome the party on its arrival at each 
 successive point where it was to disembark from the train. He 
 had the remarkable fortune in a trip of 9,153 miles to make every 
 
 II. \V. CIIAI'IX, OF SYKACUSK. 
 
 142 
 
connection that he had planned before setting out from Syracuse, 
 though he confessed afterward that it had kept him very busy to 
 keep pace with the rapid movements of the Wagner excursionists. 
 
 Travel has been declared to be the " Fool's Paradise." If 
 the epigram embodies a truth, it is also true that the fool may 
 inhabit Paradise without monopolizing it. It would be a narrow 
 and imperfect view of the subject that would seek to belittle the 
 gratification of travel or to exclude men of sense from its appre- 
 ciative enjoyment. A man may make a journey of many miles 
 in these days of rails and wires without really slackening his grasp 
 upon the interests he leaves behind him, nor can he fairly consider 
 himself as ever getting wholly out of reaching distance of his 
 home. The improvements in this respect which have occurred 
 within the observation of men still in the prime of life are among 
 the most striking illustrations of the accelerated velocity with 
 which this moribund Nineteenth Century has been spinning " down 
 the ringing grooves of change." There are many who readily recall 
 the time when a voyage to Europe, or especially a trip across 
 this continent, was a portentous undertaking, demanding serious 
 contemplation beforehand, and perhaps exciting the sympathetic 
 apprehensions of one's acquaintances. Who shall dare to con- 
 jecture what facilities for traveling will be in use at the end of 
 the next century? But let them be what they may, with all 
 their possibilities of improved conditions, they cannot confer greater 
 satisfaction upon the people of that coming period than the Press 
 Club Leaguers of this day and generation experienced in their 
 rapid railroad ride briefly related in the preceding pages. The 
 narrative has been prepared at the request of the League, merely 
 to give enduring form to the recollection of what must be 
 
 143 
 
treasured as an enjoyable episode in the life of every man and 
 woman who took part in it. It was not desired, on the one hand, 
 nor attempted on the other, to make this more than a condensed 
 recital of such incidents as fell within the writer's own observation, 
 and, accordingly, he has not aimed at describing those facts from 
 the high standpoint of expert reporting, nor on the lower plane 
 of editorial discussion. As Martial says : " His subject was so 
 fruitful that he had the less need for the exercise of wit." 
 
of T rave ' of the International press League. 
 
 New York Central and Michigan Central MILES. 
 
 New York to Chicago 976 
 
 Chicago and Northwestern 
 
 Chicago to Omaha 503 
 
 Union Pacific 
 
 Omaha to Denver 572 
 
 Denver and Rio Grande and Rio Grande Western 
 
 Denver to Ogden 784 
 
 Side Trips about Salt Lake City and to Gas Wells 35 
 
 Southern Pacific 
 
 Ogden to San Francisco .". 895 
 
 San Francisco to Monterey 127 
 
 Monterey to Pajaro 28 
 
 Pajaio to Santa Cruz 21 
 
 Santa Cruz to San Jose 35 
 
 San Jose to San Francisco 50 
 
 San Francisco to Los Angeles 482 
 
 Southern California (now A., T. and S. F. R. R.) 
 
 Los Angeles to Pasedena and Return 20 
 
 Los Angeles to Redondo Beach and return 46 
 
 Los Angeles to Redlands and return to San Bernardino 71 
 
 San Bernardino to San Diego 124 
 
 Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe 
 
 San Diego to Kansas City, making stops as follows : Albuquerque, 
 
 Santa Fe and Las Vegas Hot Springs 2,392 
 
 Lamy Junction to Santa Fe and return 36 
 
 Las Vegas to Hot Springs and return 12 
 
 Wabash Railroad 
 
 Kansas City to St. Louis 277 
 
 St. Louis to Toledo 436 
 
 Michigan Central Railway 
 
 Toledo to Detroit 59 
 
 Detroit to Buffalo 251 
 
 New York Central Railroad 
 
 Buffalo to New York 444 
 
 Total 8,676 
 
 i47 
 
\V hat the D ele S ates H ad t( > Say About the 
 
 The subjoined list of the special contributions sent to their 
 respective papers during the journey by the delegates on the train 
 is not claimed to be exhaustive. It comprises those only which 
 have come before the notice of the present writer. The dates given 
 are those of their publication : 
 
 Chas. W. Price, Electrical Review 
 
 Feb. 1 3th. "The Press Club League Convention." 
 
 J. C. Morse, Boston Herald 
 
 Feb. 3d. "The Press Delegates' Train." 
 
 J. B. Dampman, Reading Herald 
 
 Jan. Qth. "The Start and the Train." 
 
 " 1 3th. "On the Fly through Nebraska." 
 
 " i6th. "Denver's Magic Growth." 
 
 " J9th. "Crossing the Rockies." 
 
 zoth. "Salt Lake City." 
 
 " 25th. "At the Golden Gate." 
 
 " 26th. "California's Wonders." 
 
 " 29111. "Model Street Cars in San Francisco." 
 
 " 3oth. "Vineyards of Fresno." 
 
 Feb. ist. "San Jose." 
 
 " 2d. "A Visit to Monterey." 
 
 3d. "Receptions and Banquets." 
 
 " 5th. "Sacramento to Los Angeles." 
 
 2d. "Banquet of the Reading Press Club." 
 
 C. H. George, Baltimore American 
 
 Feb. 5th. "From Ocean to Ocean." 
 
 * Miss Mary Allen West, Chicago Union Signal 
 "Across the Continent." 
 
 T. J. Keenan, Jr., Pittsburgh Press 
 
 Feb. iith. "Over the Rockies." 
 
 " i5th. "Salt Lake and Auburn." 
 
 " 2oth. "Chinatown." 
 
 * This most estimable lady, a distinguished temperance advocate, separated from the party at Los Angeles to visit 
 J;ipai on missionary work, and died in Tokio, December ist, 1892. 
 
 148 
 
T. J. Keenan, Jr., Pittsburgh Press 
 
 Feb. 22d. "Monterey, etc., etc." 
 
 " 23d. "Southern California." 
 
 Mch. 6th. "The Homeward Trip." 
 
 " i6th. "The Journey's End." 
 
 W. V. Alexander, Boston Transcript 
 
 Feb. i3th. "From Ocean to Ocean." 
 
 Lynn R. Meekins, Baltimore American 
 
 Feb. izth. "From Snow to Flowers." 
 
 " i4th. "A Day in Mormondom." (2) 
 Mch. 1 2th. "Through New Mexico." 
 "A Week in California." 
 
 Mrs. E. M. Avery, Cleveland Leader 
 Jan. 25th. "A Glorious Time." 
 
 (Chicago to San Francisco.) 
 "Across the Desert." 
 
 E. H. O'Hara, Syracuse 
 
 Feb. i3th. "Some Things that I Saw." 
 
 M. r. Murphy, Toledo Bee 
 
 Jan. 3oth. "Reception in Toledo." 
 Feb. ist. "Incidents of the Tour." 
 
 E. J. Fleming, Buffalo Express 
 
 "Across the Continent." 
 
 J. S. Keeler, Boston Herald 
 
 Jan. 26th. "Sight-Seeing on the Pacific Coast (San Jose). 
 
 Feb. i st. "Doing Lower California." 
 
 " 7th. "Incidents of Interest." 
 
 " 2 1 st. "Further Incidents." 
 
 " 28th. "A Boston Delegate in Chinatown." 
 
 Mch. i3th. "The Heart of Chinatown." 
 
 " 2yth. "The Land of the Setting Sun." 
 
 Mrs. Frances E. Owens, Chicago Journal of Industrial Education 
 February, March and April. 
 
 Irving Watson, Narragansett Herald 
 
 Mrs. Kate F. McElrath, American Analyst, New York 
 Feb. 25111. "Atlantic to Pacific." 
 Mch. 3d. 
 
 Miss Belle Gorton, Chicago Woman's News 
 Feb. i3th. "Across the Continent." 
 " 2oth. "In California." 
 
 149 
 
Miss Belle Gorton, Chicago Woman's News 
 Mch. sth. 
 mh. 
 " 26th. 
 
 Kate Field's Washington 
 
 Jan. 13th. "International League of Press Clubs. 
 
 Mch. Qth. "Crossing the Continent." 
 
 " i6th. "Denver." 
 
 " 23d. "Omaha and Palmer Lake." 
 
 April 6th. "Glenwood Springs and Zion." 
 
 " i3th. "Pioneers and Nevada." 
 
 W. N. Penney, New York News 
 
 Feb. i4th. "A Sunday Amid the Rockies." 
 " 2 1 st. "Sunday Among the Palms." 
 " 28th. "Sunday in Semi-Tropical Seas." 
 
 Mch. 6th. "Sunday on the Road Niagara." 
 
 Julius Muehle, Der Seebote, Milwaukee, Wis. 
 Feb. 3d. "To California." 
 
 6th. "The League Convention." 
 " iith. "Southern California." 
 
 T. P. McElrath, American Analyst, New York 
 Feb. i8th. "Convention of Press Clubs." 
 
 E. B. Fisher, Grand Rapids, Mich., Eagle 
 Jan. 1 7th. "The Press Excursion." 
 " 24th. " From the Coast." 
 " 3tst. "Some Rare Experiences." 
 Feb. 7th. "The Great Wonder of It." 
 
 William Berri, Brooklyn Standard- Union 
 
 Feb. ist. "Across the Continent and Back." 
 

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