I
 
 
 
 .
 
 <^~ 
 
 VOYAGE 
 
 TO THE 
 
 ISLAND of MAURITIUS, 
 
 (Or, ISLE OF FRANCE) 
 
 THE 
 
 ISLE of BOURBON, 
 
 V 
 
 THE 
 
 CAPE of GOOD-HOPE, &c. 
 
 With Obfervations and Reflexions upon Nature* 
 and Mankind. 
 
 By a FRENCH OFFICER. 
 
 Homo fum ; human! oihil a me alien um puto. Tin* 
 
 TRANSLATED from the FRENCH 
 BY JOHN PARISH. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 Printed for W. GRIFFIN, N 6, Catbarint-Strttt, STRAND. 
 MDCCLXXV.
 
 a -:' A 
 
 
 
 
 
 .a HA/. 
 
 .
 
 TO THE 
 MOST NOBLE 
 
 THE 
 
 MARQUIS OF GRANBY. 
 
 MY LORD, 
 
 THE Permiffion I have obtained 
 of infcribing this Tranilation 
 to your Lordfliip, affords me a happy 
 Opportunity of exprefling my grateful 
 refpecl: to the Memory of your truly 
 NOBLE FATHER, and my EXCELLENT 
 PATRON -'tis in vain for me to attempt 
 his Panegyric: All 1 could lay, would 
 be but as the feeble Eccho of a Nation's 
 Voice, loud raifed in Honour of his 
 Virtues. The Tafk would alfo be a 
 painful one : For while I wrote, Sor- 
 row would be excited that fo much 
 Worth were loft to his COUNTRY, to 
 his FAMILY, and to
 
 DEDICATION. 
 
 Having declined to fpeak of your 
 Father's Virtues, I cannot my Lord, 
 with propriety enumerate Your's : But 
 thus far I may fay, and with truth; 
 that at fo early a period of Life, they 
 add Luftre to the high Rank you 
 fupport. 
 
 Your Lordfhip's Patronage is more 
 than a Compensation to the Author, 
 for my inability to do Juflice to his 
 Work, and reflects an Honour upon 
 me, of which I am very truly fenfible, 
 
 1 am, with the moft perfeft Refpeft, 
 M Y L O R D, 
 
 YOUR LORDSHIP'S 
 
 ' 
 moft devoted and 
 
 moft obedient 
 humble Servant, 
 
 June i, 1775. 
 
 JOHN PA RISK.
 
 The TRANSLATOR'S 
 
 TH E Reader is here prefented with a 
 Tranflation of a Work, which the 
 late Doctor Goldfmith admired for the ac- 
 curacy and ingenuity of its Obfervatk>ns t 
 and for the Spirit of Benevolence and Philan- 
 trohpy which breathes through the whole. He 
 wifhed it to be done into Englifh, and had he 
 lived, his correcting Hand would have rendered 
 the Tranflation more worthy of the Author 
 and of the Public favour, than in the ftate, 
 in which it is now fubmitted it to their 
 Candour. 
 
 The Syflem of Vegetation contained iii 
 the three laft Letters, is written in the Qri-
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 ginal as a Dialogue : In its prefent form, 
 it is much morter, and yet contains fhe 
 meaning theAuthor would convey. A long 
 Table of Sea Terms is omitted, as alfo another 
 very long one of Contents, and a confide- 
 cable Part of the Journal from Port 1'Orient 
 to the Ifle of France, which^appeared rather 
 uninterefting. For the fame Reafon, and be- 
 caufe of the difficulties attending the Tranfla- 
 ting of the Conchyology, which Science in- 
 deed the Author profeflcs himfelf very little 
 acquainted with, the Defcription of that Part 
 of the Natural Hiftory is alfo omitted. By 
 this means the Tranflation is reduced to one 
 half the Bulk and Price of the Original. 
 
 Defifous to give the Reader every Informa- 
 tion relative to an Iflund which (to fay no 
 more of it) has been the Object of the parti- 
 cular Attention of two Men fo ingenious and 
 fo able as the Abbe de la Caille, and our 
 Author ; the Tranllutor begs Leave to infert 
 the following Extract from a late Publication, 
 the Author t>f which, Dr. Campbell, fpeaking 
 of the Ifle of France, fays, " incredible 
 " as it may feem, yet it is certainly Matter of 
 " Faft, that in the fpace of five Years he (Mon*
 
 P R E E A C E. 
 
 " Jieur tie la Bourdonnais} rendered this Country 
 " a Paradife, that had been a Defart for five 
 " thoufand, and this in fpite of the Inhabi- 
 " tants, and of the Company, who being 
 " originally prejudiced by them, behaved 
 *' ill to him at his Return. He foon made 
 " the Cardinal de Fleury, however, fenfible 
 " of the true ftate of things, and compelled 
 " the Company to acknowledge, though they 
 *' did not reward, his Services. He after- 
 tf wards returned, as all the World knows, 
 " into the Indies, and perfected the Work he 
 " had begun ; and to him it is owing that 
 " the IJle of France is at prefent one of the 
 " fine ft, as it was always one of the moll 
 " Important and Improveable fpots upon the 
 " Globe."
 
 THE 
 
 AUTHOR'S PREFACE. 
 
 THESE letters were written to my friends du- 
 ring my voyage. After my return, I put them 
 in order and printed them, as a public teftimony of 
 my acknowledgement of the good offices I had re- 
 ceived. 
 
 THE plan I have adopted is this ; having given 
 an account of the plants and animals natural to each 
 country, and of the foil in it's unimproved ftate, I 
 then fpeak of the characters and manners of the in- 
 habitant^* 
 
 fe WHAT
 
 Trie AUTHOR'S PREFACE. 
 
 WHAT I have faid, will perhaps be deemed a Ik* 
 tire, but I can fay with truth, that in fpeaking of 
 men, I have fpoken of their good actions with ala- 
 crity, and of their faults with candor. 
 
 AFTER fpeaking of the Colonifls, I enter upon a 
 detail of the vegetables and animals with which they 
 have peopled the country. The induftry, the arts, 
 and the commerce of thefe countries ate all included 
 in agriculture. It mould feem that this art, fo fim- 
 ple, would be productive of the moil amiable man- 
 ners ; but the life led by the people of the We of 
 France, is far from a primitive one. 
 
 DEATH has matched from us Monfieur deTolbach, 
 Governor of the Cape, who had been very obliging 
 to me. If the place allotted him in thefe memoirs 
 cannot now ferve as acknowledgements, it may at 
 leaft be an ufeful example of conduct to thofe French- 
 men who may be appointed governors in India. If 
 from my account, they may be induced to imitate 
 his virtues, I (hall then indeed do honour to them. 
 
 I AM next to apologize for having treated of fomc 
 fubjects that I am a flranger to. I have written upon 
 plants and animals, but I am riot a Naturalift. Na- 
 tural Hiftory is not fhut up in libraries ; it has ra- 
 ther
 
 The AUTHOR'S PREFACE. 
 
 tlier feemed to me, a volume, to be read by the whdk 
 world. I have traced through the whole, the moft 
 evident proofs of a providence -, and I have treated 
 it, not as a fyftem that is pleafmg to my fancy, but 
 as a fentiment with which my heart is filled. 
 
 I SHALL at leaft, I think, have been of ufe to 
 mankind, if the faint fketch I have given of the mi- 
 ferable lot of the Negroe flaves, fhould lave them 
 from one itrokeof the whip-, and if the Europeans who 
 ib loudly exclaim againft tyranny, and among whom 
 are compofed fuch beautiful treatifes of morality, 
 may hereby be induced to ceafe being in India the 
 moft barbarous of all tyrants. 
 
 I SHALL think I have done fervice to my country, 
 if I prevent but one fingle man of worth from quit- 
 ting it, and if I have determined him to cultivate one 
 additional acre in foine heath that yet never has felc 
 the plough. 
 
 To be fenfible of this love for his country, a man 
 muft firft quit it. I am attached to mine, although 
 neither by my fortune, nor the rank I hold in it : but 
 the place where I firft faw the light, is dear to me : 
 There, I have felt, have loved, have fpoken. 
 
 THIS
 
 The AUTHOR'S PREFACE. 
 
 THIS foil, fo generally adopted by ftrangers, is 
 delightful to me : here, all that can be definable, is 
 in abundance ; and France, by the temperature of it's 
 climate, the excellence of it's vegetables, and the in- 
 duftry of its inhabitants, is to be preferred to either 
 India. 
 
 IN fine, I love this country, where my connections 
 are numerous, where efteem is the moft refined^ 
 friendfhip moft intimate, and virtue moft amiable. 
 
 VOYAGES
 
 V O Y A G E, &c. 
 
 LETTER I. 
 
 ^.Janiiary, 1768. 
 
 I AM juft arrived at L'Orient after having felt the 
 moft fevere cold. The road was frozen from 
 Paris to within ten leagues of Rennes. This city, 
 which was burnt in 1720, has nov; a grandeur which 
 it owes to its misfortune. There are feveral new 
 buildings, two handlbme fquares, a ftatue of Lewis 
 the XV th. and alfo one of Lewis the XIV th. The 
 infide of the Parliament-Houfe is handfomely deco- 
 rated, but with rather too much uniformity. The 
 pannels of the wainfcot are painted white, and have 
 gilt moldings. Molt of the churches and public 
 buildings are in this tafte. In other refpects, Rennes 
 is but a difmal town. It is fituated at the confluence 
 of the Villaim and the IJle ; two fihall rivers. Its 
 fuburbs are formed of fome dirry houfes ; the ftreets 
 are ill paved. The common people drefs in a coarfe 
 brown ftuff, which gives them very much an air of 
 poverty. 
 
 I SAW in Britany, a vafi deal of uncultivated 
 Jand. Nothing grows upon it but broom, and ail. rub 
 with yellow flowers, which appeare4 to me a com- 
 
 B pofiticn
 
 2 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 pofition of thorns. The country people call it Landt 
 or Jan *. They bruife it to feed their cattle with -f. 
 The broom ferves only to heat their ovens -, it might 
 be turned to better account, and efpecially in a mari- 
 time country. The Romans made a cordage of it, 
 which they preferred to hemp, for their fhipping. 1 
 owe this observation to Pliny, who is known to have 
 commanded the fleets of the Empire . 
 
 MIGHT not thefe lands be fown to good purpofe: 
 with potatoes, a certain fubfiftence, which can nei- 
 ther fuffer by inclement feafons, nor the ftorehoufes 
 of monopolizers. 
 
 INDUSTRY feems checked equally by an Ariftocra- 
 tic government, or in apays d'etats . The Peafant, 
 who is without a reprefentative in the afiembly, is 
 likewife without protection. In Britany he is ill clad, 
 drinks nothing but water, and lives upon black 
 bread. 
 
 THE mifery of mankind always increafes in the 
 fame degree as their dependance. I have feen the 
 
 * In one word, Furzt. T. f This is pra&ifed in forae parts 
 Of England, f. 
 
 J T,his broom, which the author faw in Britany, muft be of 
 the kihd, a fpecissof the Spanifh Spartum, which it is well known' 
 was ufed by the Ancients inftead of hemp. T. 
 
 Many provinces in France have a kind of Parliament, and 
 are called Pais d' Etats. Thefe Etats are nothing more than an 
 aflcmbly of the Nohlefle of the province, who meet at leaft once 
 in every three years, for little other purpofe, than to raife money 
 for the crown ; and in ratfing, take care to pay nothing them- 
 felvcs. Such anAriftocratioal aflembly, is fuppofed by many po- 
 liticians, to be more tyrannical, thaa a loie and abfolute gover- 
 nor. The Reader will diftinguifh the Etats from the Parlement, 
 which in France, is only a Supreme Court of Judicature ; by 
 which, indeed, the King's edifts are obliged ,to be regiilered, be- 
 fore they are regularly of authority. T. 
 
 peafant
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCES 3 
 
 peafant rich in Holland -, at his eafe in Pruflia ; in a 
 tolerable comfortable Hate in RufTia, and labouring 
 under the greateft penury in Poland : I fhall then 
 certainly fee the Negro, who is the Peafant of our 
 colonies, in a deplorable (late. I account thus for 
 what I have faid , in a republic there is no fovereign, 
 in a monarchy, but one j but in an ariilocracy, every 
 peafant is fubject to his particular tyrant. 
 
 LIBERTY Is the parent of induftry. The Swifs 
 peafant is ingenious, the villain of Poland is without 
 imagination. This ftupor of the foul, which enables 
 a man, even more than philofophy, to bear up againit 
 misfortune, feems to me to be. a peculiar bleiling. 
 When Jupiter, fays Homer, reduce', a man to the 
 jiate cf ajla"<je^ he takes from him c:ie half of bis under- 
 fianding* 
 
 EXCUSE thefe reflections. When I fee mankind 
 ftru.ggling with great miferies, I cannot help enquir- 
 ing, what will remedy them, or from whence they 
 arife. 
 
 INT Lower Britany, Nature appears as it were, 
 dwindled. The hills, rallies, trees, men and ani- 
 mals are very fmall there. 
 
 THERE are in many places quarries of flate, and 
 of black and red marble, and mines of lead, mix- 
 ed with filver, which is very ductile. But the real 
 riches of this country are its linens, its threads, and 
 cattle. Induilry revives with liberty, from the vi- 
 cinity of the fea-ports. This is perhaps, the only 
 good confequence of a maritime commerce, which 
 is little elfe than an avarice, pointed out by law. 
 Strange lot of man, that he mould frequently de- 
 duce greater benefits from the indulgence of his 
 paflions, than from the exercife of his reafon. 
 
 B 2 THB
 
 4 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCF. 
 
 THE peafant here is much at his eafe ; he looks 
 upon himfelf at liberty, from the neighbourhood of 
 an element, all the roads to which are open. Op- 
 preflion cannot extend itfelf to any thing beyond his 
 fortune : Is he hard prefied, he embarks himfelf, 
 and on fhipboard finds the oak of his own inclo- 
 fures ; the linens woven by his own family, and 
 grain, the growth of his own fields : Houfhold Gods 
 by whom he has been abandoned ! In the commander 
 of the veflel, he frequently recognizes the Lord of 
 his own village, and in their common mifery fees 
 him a man, whole fortune is more to be complained 
 of than his own. At liberty to judge of his own 
 fituation, he becomes mafter of it ; and feated on 
 the yard-arm, decides in the fury of a ftorm upon 
 that, which on more, he durft not make an object 
 of enquiry. 
 
 I HAVE not yet feen Port L'Orient. Half a 
 league before our arrival, we crofled a fmall arm 
 of the fea in a ferry-boat : I could fcarcely diftin- 
 guifh the town. A thick fog covered the horizon : 
 This is occafioned by the vicinity of the fea ; but 
 the winter is. the lefs fevere on this account. 
 
 THIS obfervation holds good as well in the neigh- 
 bourhood of pools and lakes, as of the fea. May 
 not this be to favour the propagation of a multi- 
 tude of infects, and water vermin that inhabit the 
 fands of the more ? Whether this conjecture is right 
 or not, the facility of living there, and the mild 
 temperature, draw from the North an infinite num- 
 ber of fea and water-fowls. 
 
 NATURE may well referve for them fome por- 
 tion of the coaft, and of mild air, when me has 
 allotted to the fifties alone, above half the world. 
 I am, &c.
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 L E T T E R II. 
 
 L 'Orient, January 18, 1768. 
 
 L 'ORIENT is a fmajl town in Britany, which the 
 commerce of the Earl Indies renders daily more 
 flourishing. It is, like .all other new towns, regular, 
 the ftreets in ftrait lines, but unfiqimed. It is but 
 indifferently fortified. There are fome fine ware- 
 houfes, the Hotel des Ventes, and a tower, whence 
 one may fee, wharfs which are but juft begun, and 
 ground plats whereon buildings are marked out. It 
 is fituated at the bottom of a bay which receives the 
 rivers Blavet and Pon!corf\ they are navigable, and 
 a valt many mips come down by them to L'Orient. 
 The entrance of this bay is narrow, and defended by 
 a work they call Port Louis, or Blavet. The cita- 
 del of which is too much raifed, and muft occafion. 
 the Ihot fired from it to be but of little effect. Its 
 flanks, too narrow in themfelves, have alfo Orillons, 
 which are never of ufe, but for defending the ditch ; 
 and there is none here but the fea, which wafhes the 
 foot of the ramparts. 
 
 PORT Louis is an old, and deferted city. 'Tis 
 a Gentleman of an ancient family in the neighbour- 
 hood of an Eafl-India Nabob. The people of fafhion 
 live at Port Louis ; but the merchants, the muflin, 
 and filk warehoufes., the money, and the pretty wo- 
 men, are all at L'Orient. Their manners are the 
 fame here as in other commercial ports. Every man's 
 purfe is open : but he lends money in the grofs only ; 
 
 B 3
 
 6 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 the intereft of a fum for the Indies is twenty-five or 
 thirty per cent, per ann. The borrower is much 
 worfe off than he that lends , his profits are uncer- 
 tain, his bonds are not fo. The law authorifes th ; s 
 lending of money by contracts, and they give the 
 creditors a fort of claim upon the whole fhip's cargo. 
 A power which extends over the entire fortune of 
 moil of the feafaring people. 
 
 THERE are three mips ready to fail for the I fie of 
 France, the Digue, the Conde, and the Marquis de 
 Caflries, There are others fitting out, and fome 
 more on the ftocks. The noife of the carpenters and 
 caulkers, the concovirfe of ftrahgers, and the perpe- 
 tual moving about of veffels in the road, excites in 
 the people a third after every thing that is maritime : 
 the idea of fortune, conftantly accompanying that of 
 the Indies, adds to the illufion. You would think 
 yourfelf a thoufand leagues from Paris. The people 
 of the country no longer fpeak French ; thofe iq 
 town, know no other mafter, than the Eaft-India 
 Company, The better fort of people talk of the Ifle 
 of France and Pondicherry, as if they were juft by, 
 You will fuppofe that counting-houfe difputes come 
 here in the bales from India, for intereft rather tends 
 to feparate men from, each other, than to bring them 
 together. 
 
 I am, &c, 
 
 LET-
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 LETTER III. 
 
 Port U Orient ^ February 20, 1771. 
 
 TT7 E waited only a fair wind, to fet fail. My 
 
 * * pafiage is taken on board the Marquis de 
 Caflries, a mip of eight hundred tons, and one hun- 
 dred and forty-fix men, loaden with naval (lores for 
 Bengal. My birth is a little recefs from the Great 
 Cabin. There are fifteen paffengers, moft of whom 
 are lodged in the Gun-room, the place where they 
 put the cartouches, and ordnance {tores. The- 
 Matter Gunner has the care of this parr, and lodges 
 hc^re, as do alfo the Secretary, Chaplain, and Surgeon. 
 Over this is the Great Cabin, where the pafTengen 
 dine with the Captain. Over this again is the 
 "* Council Chamber, and the Captain's Cabin ; it is 
 decorated on the outfide with a gallery, and is the 
 fined room in the fhip. The officers cabins are be- 
 fore you come to thefe abovementioned, that they 
 may with the more eafe look to what is going forward 
 upon deck. 
 
 THE crew lodge on the Forecaftle, and between 
 decks, a difmai hole, where one can fee nothing. 
 The -j- Galliards are the length of the whole fhip, 
 which is level with the Great Cabin, and has a gang- 
 way before it, as the Cabin has. The Kitchen, or 
 Cook-room, is under the Forecaftle. The provifions 
 and merchandizes in the Hold; and the Powder- 
 room is under the Gun-room. 
 
 * Called in EngliOi, the Coach. T. 
 
 f Galliards ; the fhip muft, from this defcription, have had a 
 fpare deck, T t 
 
 B 4 I HAVE
 
 8 VOYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 I HAVE given you a general fketch of the difpofir 
 tion of our fhip , but to defcribe the diforder of it, 
 is impofijble. There is no getting alon.g for the cafks 
 of champagne, wine, trunks, cheils and boxes every 
 where about. Sailors fwearing, cattle lowing, birds 
 and poultry fcreaming upon the Poop -, and, as it 
 blows hard, we have the additional noife of the 
 whiftling of the Ropes, and the cracking of the 
 timbers and rigging as the fhip rolls about at anchor. 
 Several other ihips lay near us, and we are deafened 
 by the hallowing of their officers to us, through their 
 fpeaking-trumpets. 
 
 WEARIED with this uproar, I got into a boat and 
 went afhore at Port Louis. 
 
 THE wind was very high ; we walked through the 
 flreets, but met nobody. From the walls of the cita- 
 del, I fa\v the Horizon very black, and the iiland of 
 Grci covered with a thick fog -, upon the more crouds 
 of women chilled with cold and fear, and a centinel 
 at the point of the Baftion, in aftoniihment at the 
 hardineis of the poor wretches ? who were fiihing in, 
 the midfc of the tempeit, 
 
 WE returned, buttoned up clofe, wet through, 
 and holding on our hats with -our hands. As we 
 went along, the ftreets were covered with fifh ; white 
 and purple fkait, thornbacks, dog fim, conger eels 
 of a monflrous fize, large bafkets full of crabs and 
 lobfters, heaps of oyfters, mufcles and cockles, cod- 
 lings, foles, and turbots ; in fhort, as miraculous a 
 draught as that of the apoitles. 
 
 THESE good folks are not without faith ; for when 
 they fifh for pilchards, a prieft goes in the firft boat, 
 and gives his benediction to the wat;er. One might 
 
 fee
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 9 
 
 fee among them the conjugal affection of old times ; 
 for as they came dropping in, their wives and chil- 
 dren hung about their necks : it is among thefe hard 
 
 C3 m ^ ^J 
 
 working people, that fome remains of virtue is to be 
 found, as if man retained his morals no longer than 
 while he was in a Hate between hope and fear. 
 
 THIS part of the coaft abounds, in fifli : each 
 fpecies of which is, in general, larger than they are 
 elfewhere , but their taite is inferior. I was allured, 
 that the pilchard fifhery brought in four millions of 
 livres, annually, to the revenue of the province. It 
 is rather fmgular, that there are no crawfifh in the 
 rivers of Britany j occafioned, perhaps, by J:he ftili- 
 nefs of the water. 
 
 WE are now got once more to our inn ; the noife 
 of the wind and fea (till buzzing in our ears. Two 
 Parifians, the Sieurs B***, father and fon, who were 
 to have gone in our Ihip, without faying a word to 
 us, ordered a chaife, and are gone to Paris. 
 
 LETTER
 
 io VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 LETTER IV. 
 
 On board the MARQUIS DE CASTRIES, the $d of 
 MARCH, Eleven in the Morning. 
 
 I HAVE but juft time to fay adieu-, we are 
 fetting fail. Pray take care of the letters inclofed-, 
 three are for Ruflia, Pruffia, and Poland. Wherever 
 J have travelled, I left fomebody whom I regret. 
 
 BUT our anchor is a peek. I hear the noife of the 
 Boatfwain's whittle, the capftern, and the failors 
 heaving anchor. The laft gun is }uft fired. We are 
 under fail, and the fhore, the ramparts and roofs of 
 Port Louis begin to difappear. Adieu, ye friends, 
 who are dearer to me than the treafures of India. 
 Adieu ! Adieu ! 
 
 JOURNAL.
 
 VOYAGE to tkc I'M-. OF FRANCE. n" 
 
 JOURNAL. 
 
 MARC I-I, 1768. 
 
 WE failed on the third at a quarter paft eleven 
 in the morning, the wind at N. E. the tide 
 not being high enough, we w.ere very near touching 
 upon a rock, to the right of the Channel. When 
 we were abreaft of the ifland of Gra, we lay to for 
 jfome of the pafiengers and officers. 
 
 THE 4th, the weather was fine j but the wind be- 
 to rife, and the fea to run high in 'the evening. 
 
 THE 5th, a violent ftorm arofe , the fhip was on 
 her way under her cburfes. I was terribly fea-fick. 
 At half paft ten in the morning, being in bed, I felt 
 a great fhock ; fomebody'crie'd out, that the (hip had 
 llruck. I went upon deck, where I found all the 
 people in confirmation. A wave {truck us on the 
 ilarboara-fide and carried away the yawl, with the 
 mate and three men. One of them only remained, 
 entangled in the fhrouds of the main mail, 'from 
 whence he was taken, with his moulder and hand 
 mattered to pieces. It was impofiible to'fave the 
 others j they were feen no more, 
 
 THIS misfortune happened by the veflels not an- 
 fwering the helm- Her poop was too low in the 
 water, to fuffer the rudder .to aft properly upon her. 
 The bad weather lafted all day, and the motion of 
 the fhip killed moft of the poultry. I had a dog on 
 >oa.rd, that panted incefiantly with uneafinefs. The 
 
 only
 
 12 VOYAGE to the ISLE of FRANCE. 
 
 only animals that feemed infenfible, were fome 
 fparrows and canary birds, accuftomed to a per- 
 petual motion. Thefe birds are carried to India as 
 curiofities. 
 
 I, as well as the other paflengers was exceedingly 
 fick. There is no remedy for this evil, which oc- 
 cafions the moft dreadful Teachings. It is good 
 however, to take fome dry food, and above all acid 
 fruits. 
 
 THE 6th, the weather being fine, we offered up 
 our prayers for the fouls of the poor failors we loil 
 in the late florm. The ilta, in breaking upon the 
 veffel, had fplit the beam that goes round the 
 hatchway, although it was ten inches thick. 
 
 THE yth, we reckoned ourfelves to be in the lati- 
 tude of Cape Finiftere, where gufts of wind, and a 
 great fea, as at all other capes, are very common. 
 
 THE 8th, a beautiful fea and fair wind. We 
 faw flying about, fome white birds with black bor- 
 ders round their wings ; they call them Manches de 
 Velours (Velvet Sleeves ) 
 
 THE 9th and roth, the air began to be fenfibly 
 hotter, and the fky more pleafing. \Ve approached 
 the Fortunale iiland (the Azores) if it be true, that 
 Heaven has placed good fortune in any particular 
 ifland. 
 
 THE i ith, the wind fell calm, the fea was covered 
 with bonnets de feu (bonnets of fire} a kind of mu- 
 cilage, formed into the fhape of a cap, with a pro- 
 greffive motion. In the morning we law a fliip. 
 
 THE
 
 VOYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRANCE. 13 
 
 THE i zth and I3th, Come good regulations 
 were made. It was agreed, that each paflenger 
 Ihould have but one bottle of water a day. Break- 
 faft was to be at ten every morning, and was to 
 confift of faked meats and dry vegetables. Our 
 afternoon meal, at four o'clock, was a rather better 
 repaft. All fires were to be put out at eight o'clock. 
 
 ON the 1 4th, we expected to fee the ifland of 
 Madeira, but we were too much weftward; it 
 was calm all day. We faw two birds, brown, and 
 of the fize of a pigeon, flying to the weftward, as 
 high as the mails. We took them for land birds, 
 and judged, from theic appearing, that fome ifland 
 was to our left hand. 
 
 THE 1 5th, the calm continued; but the wind 
 rofe a little towards night : an Englifh brig palled us 
 in the afternoon, and ialuted us with his flag. 
 
 THE 1 6th, at fun rife, we faw the ifland of 
 
 Palma before us ; on the left is the ifland of Teneriffe 
 
 with its Pike, which is in the fliape of a dome, with 
 
 a pyramid on the top. Thefe iflands were enveloped 
 
 in a fog all day, and at night in florins of lightning : 
 
 an appearance which terrified the mariners who firfl 
 
 difcovered them. It is known, that the Romans had 
 
 heard of them-, becaufe Sertorius was defirous of 
 
 retiring to them. The Carthaginians, who traded 
 
 on the coaft of Africa, knew them well, Juba, the 
 
 hiftorian, fays, there are five of them , and defcribes 
 
 them at large : he calls one of them the Ifle of Snow, 
 
 becaufe it is covered with it all the year. The Pike 
 
 is, in fact, covered with mow, although the air is fo 
 
 hot. Thefe iflands are the ruins of that large ifland 
 
 of Atlantis, of which Plato fpeaks. By the depth of 
 
 the cavities, out of which their mountains are raifed, 
 
 one
 
 14 VOYAGE to tie ISLE of FRANCE. 
 
 one would think they were the ruins of this original 
 world, when overturned by an event, the tradition 
 of which remains among all nations. According to 
 Juba, the ifland of Canary took it's name from the 
 large dogs bred there. The Spaniards, to whom they 
 belong, got excellent Malmfey * from thence. 
 
 THE 1 7th, i8th, and icjth, we pafled through the 
 midft of thefe iflands, having Teneriffe on our left, 
 and Palma on our right; Gomera was to the eaft- 
 ward. I took a draught of thefe iflands, which are 
 cut in with very deep ravines (or furrows.) 
 
 WE faw a flying fifh. A lapwing came and perch- 
 ed on our fhip, and took it's flight to the weft , it 
 was of an orange-colour, it's wings and aigrette 
 mottled with black and white, its beak is black as 
 ebony, and a little bent. 
 
 THE 2oth, we left the ifland of Ferro to the 
 weft, and loft fight of all the Canaries. The fight 
 of thofe iflands, lituated in fo fine a climate, excited 
 in us many fruitlefs wifhe?. We compared the re- 
 pofe, and abundance, the union and pleafures of thefe 
 iflands, to our own unquiet life of agitation. Per- 
 haps, at feeing us pafs by, feme unhappy Canarian 
 was upon a burning rock, wifhing himfelf on board 
 a (hip, that fleered under full fail for the Eaft-Indies. 
 
 THE 2 1 ft, we faw a land-fwallow, arid afterwards 
 a ftiark. While we were in the latitude of thefe 
 
 * The wine at prefent brought from the Canaries, is chiefly 
 fack, which name, it is generally fuppofed to have always been 
 diftinguifhed by ; yet I have heard fome firlt-rate critics doubt very 
 much, whether any human being could drink fack and fagar 
 for pleafure ; and they therefore (ufpecl, that FalitafFs fack was 
 Rheniftx Wine. 7'. 
 
 iflands,
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. t 
 
 iilands, we were becalmed all day, the wind rifmg 
 in the evening only. 
 
 THE 22d, the weather was fo hot, as to occa- 
 fion feveral bottles of Champagne to break, al- 
 though they were cafed in fait j this is a ftore, that 
 rnoft of the Officers going to India take with them ; 
 it is fold there at a piitole a bottle. This inundation, 
 which penetrated every thing, deftroyed fome Itttices 
 and creiTes, that I had fown in wet mofs, where thefe 
 plants grow furprizingly. This faked liquor was fo 
 very corrofive, as to entirely fpoil all my papers that 
 got wetted with it. 
 
 THE 2 jd, we had a very frefh wind; the fea 
 appeared to be grey and greenifh, as upon banks, 
 or in foundings ; they pretend to find foundings 
 above eighty leagues from the coaft of Africa, which 
 is but little raifed in thefe latitudes. We faw a fnip 
 bearing away for Senegal. 
 
 THE 24th, we found the trade wind, from the 
 N. W, The mip rolled very much. 
 
 THE 25th and 6th, fine weather and fair wind ; 
 we pafled the latitude of the Cape de Verd ifiands, 
 but did not fee them; they belong to Portugal- 
 frefh provifions are to be had there ; but water,"the 
 chief article, is very fcarce. We faw fome flying 
 fifties and a land fwallow. The French wheat, in 
 the Bread-room, heated to fuch a degree, that there 
 was no bearing one's hand in it. It has happened 
 fometimes, that mips have been fet on fire by this 
 means. In 1760, an Engliili fliip, loaden with 
 hemp, was burnt in the Baltic. The hemp took 
 fire of itfelf. I faw the wreck of her on the coaft 
 of the ifle of Bornholm. 
 
 THB
 
 16 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 THE 27th, an awning was fpread from head to 
 ftern, to fhelter the people from the heat. We faw 
 fome galeresj a fpecies of living mucilage. 
 
 THE 28th and 29th, we faw flying-rim, and a great 
 number of tunny-fifh. 
 
 THE 3Oth, our men got ready for fifhing, and took 
 ten tunny-fifh, the leaft of which weighed fixty pounds ; 
 we faw a mark. The heat increafed, and the crew 
 bore their thirft with great impatience. 
 
 THE gift, we took a bonnito , fome thirty failors 
 in the night opened the water jars of feveral pafTen- 
 gers, who by that means found themfelves, as the 
 crew were, reduced to a pint of water a day. 
 
 Some OBSERVATIONS on the MANNERS of 
 SEAFARING PEOPLE. 
 
 I WILL only fpeak of the influence the fea has upon 
 thefe men, in order that thofe faults which are the 
 confequences of their way of life, may meet with the 
 indulgence due to them. x ^ 
 
 THE hafte which is abfolutely neceflary in opera- 
 tions on board a mip, renders them coarfe in their 
 expreflions. Living at a diftance from land, they 
 think themfelves independent ; hence it is that they 
 frequently fpeak of Princes, laws or religion, with 
 a freedom equal to their ignorance. Not but they 
 are in fome circumftances, devout, and even fuper- 
 ftitious. I have known more than one, who would 
 not fo much as touch a rope on a Sunday or Friday. 
 But in general, their religion depends upon the 
 weather. 
 
 THE
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE or FRANCS. 17 
 
 THE idlenefs in which they live, makes them fond 
 of fcandal and (lories. The quarter-deck is the place 
 where the officers deal out fables and wonders, 
 
 THE habit of making new acquaintances continu- 
 ally, renders them inconitant in their fociety and tafte, 
 At fea they wifti for land, on more they murmur that 
 they are not at lea. 
 
 IN a long voyage, it is beft to give way a little^ 
 and never to difpute. The fea naturally fours the 
 temper , and the flighted contradiction will breed a 
 quarrel. I have feen one arife on a queftion in philo- 
 fophy. It is true thefe queflions have fometimes 
 caufed no fmall mifchief on more; 
 
 IN general, they are filent and thoughtful ; who 
 can be gay, when furrounded with dangers, and de- 
 prived of the principal neceflaries of life ? 
 
 THEIR good qualities however, muft not be for- 
 gotten. They are open, generous, brave, and above 
 all, good hufbands. A feaman looks upon himfelf 
 as a ftranger when afliore, and moflly fo in his own 
 houfe. Unaccuftomed to the manner of living, he 
 leaves to his wife the management of a world, of 
 which he is ignorant* 
 
 To thefe good and bad qualities of 4 feamcn, muft 
 be- added the vices of their education* They are 
 given to drunkennefs. Every day a ration of wine 
 or brandy ia ifTued, There are fevert men in a mefs, 
 and I have fcen them agree among themfelves to drink 
 alternately the allowance of the whole feven. Some 
 of them are given to thieving , and there are of theie, 
 men fo dextrous as to ftnp their comrades while 
 others again, are of an extraordinary pro* 
 
 c bity.
 
 iS VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 bity. The mafter and gunner, are commonly the 
 men entrufled, upon whom devolves the government 
 of the crew. One may add to thefe, the chief pilot, 
 who, I don't know why, does not hold among us 
 that rank which his merit deferves , he is but the 
 firft officier marinier *. Upon thefe three men depends 
 the good behaviour of the crew, and very often the 
 jfuccefs of the navigation. 
 
 THE laft man in the fhip is the cook. The 
 cabbin-boys are often ufed very barbaroufly. There 
 is fcarce an officer or failor, that does not make 
 them fenfible when he is in an ill humour. They 
 even amufe themfelves on board fome mips, with 
 flogging them in calm weather, to procure a wind -K 
 Thus, man, who is fo often complaining of his weak- 
 nefs, feldom has power, but he abufes it. 
 
 You will gather from all this, that a fhip is a place 
 of difTention , that a convent and an ifland, which is 
 a kind of fhip, mud be filled with difcord ; and that 
 the intention of Nature, which is in other refpefts fo 
 plainly pointed out, is, that the earth mould be 
 peopled with families, and not with focieties and fra- 
 ternities. 
 
 * In Britifli men of war, the Captain and Lieutenants, are con- 
 fidered as Gentlemen by their office, and generally are fo by their 
 behaviour or birth. They all have commitfions. The mafter, 
 his mates, and the carpenter, gunner, &c. are only warrant offi- 
 cers, and in general are low born and educated, people, who by 
 their good behaviour, and application in their refpeftive branches 
 in feamanfhip, have qualified themfelves for their particular com- 
 mands. Thefe are what the Author probably means by ojficiers 
 mar inters, 7~. 
 
 f This curtom is not unknown to many of oar cabbin- 
 boys. T. ... 
 
 APRIL
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF 
 
 1768. 
 
 THE ift, we faw fome marks and took one, as 
 alfo a bonite. I intend to continue my oblervations 
 dn fifties at the end of my journal for this month. 
 
 THE 2d, we had calm weather, and now and 
 then fqualls. We are upon the borders of the fout'h- 
 ern trade windSi In the afternoon we had a fquall 
 that made us reef all our fails. We draw near to 
 the line ; and have now very little twilight, 
 
 THE 3d, w r e took fome bonnitos, and a- mark. 
 We were conitantly furrounded by the fame mole 
 of tunny fifh. 
 
 THE 4th, we had a ftormy fky, and a violent 
 fquall, with thunder at a diflance. A failor died of 
 the fcurvy, Many others are ill of it. This difor- 
 der mewing itfelf fo early, fpreads an alarm through 
 the whole crew. We took feveral bonitos and 
 marks. 
 
 THE 5th and 6th, yefterday morning at three 
 o'clock, it blew a mofl terrible ftofm, and obliged 
 us to reef all our fails except the mizen. I have 
 always remarked, that the rifing of the moon difpels 
 the clouds very perceptibly, Two hours after it is 
 above the horizon, the fky is perfectly clear. We 
 had a calm thefe two days, and fome drops of rain, 
 
 THE 7th, we took fome bonitos. I faw fome 
 glafs cut with fciffars under water ; the caufe of 
 which 1 am ignorant of. 
 
 THE 8th and 9th, we caught one mark, fome 
 fucking-rim, or remoras, and two tunny fames, 
 
 C 2 Although
 
 20 YOYAGE to the ISLE or FRANCF. 
 
 Although near the line, the heat was not very trou- 
 blefome to me j the air is cooled by the ftorms. 
 
 THE loth, the ducking at the line, was announ- 
 ced, we were within one degree. A failor difguifsd 
 in a mafk, came to the Captain, and defired him to 
 caufe the old cuftom to be obferved. This is a fro- 
 lic defigned to divert the melancholy of the crew. 
 The failors are very difpirited ; the fcurvy gets a-head 
 among them, and we have not gone one third of the 
 voyage. 
 
 THE nth, the ceremony of dipping was per- 
 formed. The principal pafiengers were ranged along 
 a cord, to which their thumbs were tied with a rib- 
 band. Some drops of water were poured on their 
 heads, and they then gave ibme money to the pilots. 
 
 THE wind was contrary ; the fky and the fea very 
 fine. 
 
 THE 1 2th, we could not get paft the line. 
 The currents ran northward. We now fee the 
 polar-ftar no more. We faw a fhip to tic Eaft. 
 
 THE i gth, we croiTed the line. The fea ap- 
 peared at night, as if covered with phofphorus. 
 The lower deck is cleaned, every Sunday ; the chefts 
 and hammocks of the crew are brought upon deck, 
 and then pitch is burnt between decks ; the third 
 part of the water-cafks were found to be empty, al- 
 though we had not gone near a third of our voyage. 
 
 THE 1 4th, 1 5th, and 1 6th, the winds varied.. 
 It was very hot. We were continually furround- 
 ed with bonitos, tunny-fifh, porpoifes, and flemim- 
 
 caps.
 
 VOYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRANCE. 21 
 
 caps. We faw a fhark of an enormous fize. The 
 weather calm in general, but ibmetimes ftormy. 
 
 THE i;th, i8th, and i<)th, the calms and the 
 heats continued. The pitch melted from the rig- 
 ging. Spleen and impatience increafed aboard the 
 (hip. J Tis not unufual to lay becalmed a whole 
 month under the line. I law a whale going to 
 the weftward, 
 
 THE 20th, 2 1 ft, and 22d, the calm, and 
 uneafmefs continued , the ftiip was furrounded with 
 marks. We faw one tied to a paillaifon, in a large 
 ridge of furf running from Eaft to Weil. It was 
 alive -, fome mip had certainly paffed by juft before 
 us. 
 
 WE catched fome tunny-fifties, bonitoes, five or 
 fix marks, and a porpoife, with a very ftiarp point- 
 ed head. The failors fay that the porpoife tor-bodes 
 wind ; in effect, at midnight it arofe. 
 
 THE 2gd, we entered at laft into the South- 
 Weft trade-winds, which were to carry us be- 
 yond the other tropic. We took fome bonitos and 
 tunny- fifh. As we were drawing one of thefe fifties 
 out of the water, a fhark catched it by the tail, and 
 broke the line. We faw a frigate-bird ; it is black 
 and grey, and nearly of the fame form as a ftork. 
 Its flight is very lofty. 
 
 THE 24th and 25th, we had forne fqualls, which 
 occafioned the wind to change. Towards evening 
 the moon was encompaffed with a large halo. 
 We catched bonitos, and tunny fifh. 
 
 C 3 THE
 
 i? VOYAGE lo the ISLE OF FRANCE, 
 
 The 26th, we faw frigate-birds, flying-fifti, 
 tunny-fifti, bonitos, and a white bird, which the 
 crew faid was a booby. In th.e evening, all the 
 fails being fet, we were attacked by a violent fquall, 
 which laid us on one fide for fome minutes. Our 
 (hip is a bad failor, and when the wind is quite fair ? 
 makes but about two leagues an hour, 
 
 D 
 
 
 
 The 27th, the fea ran high -, the wind was 
 frefh, and had fome fqualls of rain. We faw the 
 fame fifties, and a halcyon, which the Englifh 
 call the Bird of Storms * . I mall referve an article 
 pf my journal for fea-fowl, 
 
 THE 28th, we had frelh winds, and fqualls, 
 with rain. Six guns were carried forward, 
 
 from the aft-part of the fhip, that being 
 
 deeper in the water forward, me might fleer the 
 better. We had very ftormy weather, which is rare 
 in thefe latitudes. Saw the fame tunnies. 
 
 THE 29th, fine weather, but fometimes fqually, 
 We faw fome frigate-birds, and a white bird, 
 with wings marked with grey. At fun-fet, we 
 faw a mip to windward, fleering the fame courfe 
 as we. 
 
 THE goth, a fine frem wind and beautiful 
 fea. The air cooler. We faw the iliip we had 
 feen laft night, a little to windward. She had 
 crouded fail i we did the like ; me hoifled Englifh 
 colours, we ours. We catched tunnies, and faw 
 fly ing-iim * 
 
 * Petrers, alluding it is faid, to St. Peter, when our Saviour 
 walked on the fea. They feem to walk in a ihip's wake, parti- 
 cularly in dorms. The common failors call chem Mother Carey's 
 Qdiiktm. 
 
 O B S E R-
 
 VOYAGE to tie IAE of FRANCE. 23 
 
 OBSERVATIONS upon the SEA and 
 FISHES. 
 
 THERE is fcarcely fo difmal a fight as the main 
 fea. A man becomes prefently impatient of being 
 in the centre of a circle, the circumference of which 
 he never attains to. It however prefents fome very 
 interefting fcenes. I do not fpeak of it when tem- 
 peftuous only. During a calm, and efpecially at 
 night in hot climates, it is furprizing to fee the fpark- 
 ling of it. I have taken in a glafs fome of thofe 
 luminous points of which it is full; and .have feen 
 them move about with great vivacity. They are 
 faid to be the fry of fiih , and are fometimes feen in 
 a heap together appearing like moons. At night, 
 when the fhip is under way, and is furrounded by 
 6m that accompany it, the fea appears like a vail 
 firework, all fparkling with ferpents and filver 
 fpangles. 
 
 I LEAVE you to think what a prodigious quantity 
 of living beings this element mull be the country of. 
 I confine myfelf to fome obfervations upon different 
 fpecies of fiihes found in the main fea. 
 
 . THE bonnet-flamand, which I believe the Ancients 
 called pulmo-marinus^ is a fpecies of animal, formed 
 of a very glaring fubftance. It is not unlike a cham- 
 pignon, or mufhroom. Its upper part has a power 
 of contraction and dilatation, by the which it moves 
 very Qowly. I know no other property of it.; *tis 
 fo common, that we found the fea covered with it 
 for many days. It can change its fhape and colour ; 
 but the (hape naturally is always the fame. They 
 are found very large upon the coaft of Normandy. 
 
 C 4 THE
 
 24 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 Z ga'ere is of the fame fubilance, but feems 
 endued with more intelligence and malignity. Its 
 body is a kind of oval bladder, covered lengthways 
 with a tuft of fail, which is always out of the wa- 
 ter, in the fame direction as the wind. When over- 
 turned by a wave, it rifes again quickly, and always 
 prefents the convex fide of its bo<iy to the wind. I 
 have feen many of them together, ranged like a fleet 
 of fhips. There might perhaps, be fome kind of 
 fail contrived upon this principle, by means of which 
 a bark might get on, although the wind were contrary. 
 From the lower part of the galere, hang ftveral 
 long blue filaments, with which it feizes whatever 
 attempts to take it. Thefe filaments burn immedi- 
 ately, like the moft violent cauitic. I one day faw a 
 young failor who fwam after, and attempted to catch 
 one of them, burnt on the arm fo terribly, that the 
 fright nearly occafioned his being drowned. The 
 ga/ere, while alive, is the moft beautiful colours ; 
 fome of them are of a lky-b.lue, and fome of a 
 rofe-colour. The bonnet rflamand *, is found in, our 
 feas, and the galerc in thofe near the tropics. 
 
 IN the latitude of the Azores, I faw a kind of 
 fhell-fim, floating and living on the furface of the fea, 
 fhaped like the beard of an arrow, or beak of a bird. 
 It is fmall, tranfparent, and very eafy to break. 
 This is perhaps the fame that is found in Amber- 
 greafe. 
 
 IN the fame latitude, we found fome fnails, that 
 were blue, and floated on the furface of the water, 
 like bladders filled with air. Their fhell was very 
 thin and brittle, and filled with a Ikjuor of a beau- 
 
 * Or Flemifh Bonnet. 
 
 tiful
 
 VOYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRANCE. 2$ 
 
 tiful purplifh blue colour. This is not however, the 
 purple fifh of the Ancients. 
 
 A SPECIES of fhell-fifh much more common, is 
 that which flicks itfelf to the fides of the fhip, by 
 means of a ligament, which it fhortens or contracts, 
 in bad weather. It is white, fhaped like an almond, 
 and compofed of four pieces. It puts out a number 
 of filaments, that have a regular motion. They 
 multiply fo very faft, that the courfe of the fhip is 
 fenfibly retarded by them. 
 
 THE flying-Em is very common between the tro- 
 pics. 1 1 is of the fize of a herring. It flies in a troop 
 and at one fingle fpring, the ufual flight of a par- 
 tridge. In the lea, 'tis hunted by the fifties, and in 
 the air by the birds. It's defliny leems a very unfor- 
 tunate one, that in the air the fame danger fliould 
 await it, which it fled from in the water. But it has 
 a compeniation for the misfortune, for as a fifh, it 
 often efcapes from the birds, and as a bird from the 
 fimes. 'Tis in ftorms chiefly, that it is feen flying 
 from \htfregattes and tunnies, which make prodigious 
 leaps in puriuit of it. 
 
 THE evcornet, makes nearly the fame manoeuvre 
 as the flying-fifh. It has the faculty of black'ning 
 the water by throwing into it a very black ink, and 
 it does not fwim altogether fo well ; it is of a conoid 
 form. Thefe two kinds of fifh frequently fall on 
 board of mips, and are very fine eating. 
 
 THE tunny-fifh of thefe feas differs in tafte from 
 that of the Mediterranean. It is very dry, and has 
 no fat but in the eye. It has very little entrails. 
 Its Mem appears pinched, or comprefled together 
 by the fkin. Eight mufcles, four large, and four 
 
 fmall,
 
 j6 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 'mall, form its body, the tranfverfe fection of which 
 relembles that of a tree. They filh for it at fun-rile, 
 and fun-fet, becaufe then the lhade of the waves dif- 
 guifes the bate, which is made to reprefent a flylng- 
 ftfh. This fhoal of tunnies followed us thefe fix weeks 
 paft. They are eafily known ; among them there is 
 fcfie^ which has a red wound on the back, from being 
 ftruck with a harpoon a fortnight ago : but his courfe 
 was not retarded by it. 
 
 CAN a fith cxffl without fleep, and is fea-water of 
 a healing, quality to wounds ? 1 have fomewhere read 
 that Monfieur cle Chirac, cured the Duke of Orleans 
 of a wound in the wrifl, by ordering it to be (beeped 
 In the waters of Balaru. 
 
 THE tunny when eaten frefh, is wholefome, though 
 it occafions thirft, it is dangerous in thefe latitudes 
 to eat it faked for one of our failors having done 
 fo, his fkin turned as red as fcarlet, and he had a 
 fevtr for twenty-four hours after. 
 
 AMONG the tunnies we took a number of bonkos. 
 Tfcey are a fort of mackarel, fome of which are as 
 large as tunnies. In the rkfh of many were found 
 living worms, as big as a grain of barleyj which did 
 Hot feem at all troublefome to the filh. 
 
 SHARKS are very numerous near the Line. As 
 ibon as it is calm the fhip is furrounded with them- 
 This fifh fwims along ilowly, and without noiie. 
 It is preceded -by many, frnall -fifhes called pilot- 
 fifh, fpeckled with black ^nd yellow. If any thing 
 falls into the fea, they mftantly reconnoitre, and re- 
 turn to the fhark, who approaching his prey, turns 
 himfelf, and devours it. -J.f it is a bird, he -does not 
 
 touch
 
 .VOYAGE u the ISLX OF FRANCE. 27 
 
 touch it ; but when prefTed by hunger, lie fwallows 
 every thing, even iron nails. 
 
 THE fhark is the tyger of the fea. I have feen 
 jfome, more than ten feet long. By nature it is very 
 mort-fighted. It fwims very (lowly, from the round 
 form of its head, which joined to the pofition of its 
 mouth, that obliges it to turn upon its fide, in order 
 to fw allow, prelerves a number of Ernes from its vo- 
 racity. It has no bones, but cartilages, like other 
 fifties of prey, as the fea-dog, the thornback, the 
 polypus. Thefe like the mark, fee but badly, are 
 flow fwimmers, and have their mouths placed quite 
 beneath, and are alfo viviparous. 
 
 The jaws of the mark are armed with five or 
 fix rows of teeth above and below. They are fiat, 
 and fharp at the fides, which are ferrated. They have 
 but two rows perpendicular, the others are hidden, 
 and difpofed in fuch a manner, that they"replace by 
 an admirable mechanifm, thofe that frequently are 
 liable to be broken. 
 
 THEY bait for it with a piece of flem, fattened up- 
 on an iron crook. Before they draw it out of the 
 water, they fix round the fail a Hiding knot, and as 
 foon as it is upon the deck, and attempts to ftrike, 
 or wound the failors, they cut it orT with a hatchet. 
 This tail has but one fin, fhaped like a fickle. The 
 Chinefe efteem this as an aphrodifiaque. In other 
 reipefts, this filh is of no utility. Its fkfh has a tafte 
 of the thornback, and a fmell of urine, and is rec- 
 koned feverifh. The failors filh for this creature, 
 merely to deftroy it. They put out the eyes, gut 
 them, tie two or three together by the -tails, and 
 throw them into the fea ; a fpeclacle worthy of a faU 
 lor. The fhark is fo vivacious, as to move, long 
 
 after
 
 $8 VOYAGE to the ME OF FRANCE. 
 
 after the head is cut off; yet, I have fcen them 
 drowned very faft, by being plunged feveral times in 
 the fea, after being ilruck by a hook, which keeps 
 their mouth open. 
 
 WE almoft conftantly took upon the Shark, a fifti 
 called a Sucking-rim, or Remora^ about as big as a 
 Herring. It has upon the head an oval furrace, a 
 little concave, with which it fixes itfelf upon any 
 body, by forming a vacuum, between the oval fur- 
 face and the body, to which it adheres in the manner 
 of a leathern fucker. I have put fome of them alive 
 upon an even fmooth glafs, from which I could not 
 afterwards take them. This fifh has this Angularity, 
 that it fwims with the head and gills out of water, 
 its fkin is courfe and rough, and its mouth armed 
 with feveral rows of fmall teeth. We often have 
 eaten the Sucking-fifh, and found the tafte like fried 
 artichokes. 
 
 BESIDES the Pilot and Sucking-fifh, the Shark 
 nourifhes under it's fkin an infect, fhaped like the 
 half of a pea, with a beak that projects a long way. 
 It is a kind of loufe. 
 
 THE Porpoife is a fifh well known. I have fecn of 
 one fort, that has the fnout very pointed. The 
 failors, on account of its fwiftnefs, call it the Sea- 
 arrow. I have feen them go quite round about the 
 (hip, while me made two leagues an hour. They 
 throw a dart at this animal, which pants when taken, 
 and feems to complain ^ it is a bad fifh ; it's flefh is 
 black, hard, grofs and oily. 
 
 I HAVE alfo feen a Dor ado ^ which they fay, is the 
 lighted of all fifh. It is alfo faid, that this is the 
 Dolphin of the antients, fo fully defcribed by Pliny. 
 
 Be
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 29 
 
 Be as it may, we did not experience much of it's 
 friendfhip to mankind ; but faw, at a great depth, 
 the mining of its golden fins, and it's back of a beau- 
 tiful azure. 
 
 WE fometimes faw, at half a league's diftance, 
 Whales, throwing up their jetdeau. They are 
 fmaller here than in the North ; and appeared to me, 
 a far off, like a boat, bottom upwards. 
 
 SUCH are the fpecies of fifh I have hitherto feen, 
 Sharks are feen in a calm, and are commonly follow- 
 ed by the Dorados ; the Porpoifes appear when the 
 wind frefhens. The Tunnies have followed us con- 
 ftantly for fix weeks paft. 
 
 IF this detail has been tirefome to you, 
 what my pleafures muft have been. There are none 
 for a man, upon an element, with the inhabitants 
 of which he cannot connect himfclf, 
 
 MAY,
 
 30 VOYAGE to tbe Isn OF FRANCS. 
 
 M A y, 1768. 
 
 THE i ft, at fun rife, the vefiel we had feen fome 
 days before, was in our wake, and gaining upon us 
 infenfibly ; at ten in the morning me was along fide 
 of us. We remarked, that all her fails were very old, 
 that the chefts and beds of the crew were upon deck. 
 They afked us in Englim, What cheer ? What's your 
 Jhip called? Where do you come from? Where are you 
 bound ? We anfwered in Englifh, and afked diem the 
 fame queftions. She came from London, fixty-four 
 days before -, and was bound for China. She was 
 pierced for twenty-four guns, and was of about five 
 hundred tons burthen. She wiflied us a good voyage, 
 and continued her way. Saw fome Frigate Bird*, 
 Tunnies, and Bonites. 
 
 THE 2d and 3d, again faw the Englifh mip, 
 which the Tunnies followed, after having borne us 
 company fo long. We had violent fqualls from the 
 Weft. Thefe variations, in my opinion, arife from 
 the neighbourhood of All Saints Bay ; and I believe 
 the currents and leeway me made by not anfwering 
 her helm, have carried her nearer to America * than 
 we were aware of. 
 
 THE /th and 5th, the wind was violent and change- 
 able. We faw a Fouquet, a bird that is black and 
 grey ; fome Frigate Birds and Boobies, that were div- 
 ing to catch fim. 
 
 THE 6th and yth, a good breeze and fine fea ; laft 
 night we had violent fqualls. We faw fome Frigate 
 Birds taking their courie to the N. E, 
 
 * The Abbe de la Caille fays, that in his Voyage to the Cape 
 of Gcod Hope, the (hip was constantly and confiderably to the 
 weftward of the Reckonings. 7".
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE or FRANCE. 31 
 
 THE 8th and 9th. Yefterday the wind was very 
 violent, and the fea very high. The fhip lay on her 
 fide, and the water came in at the ports. Towards 
 the evening the wind fell calm, which it commonly 
 does, when die fun gets in the quarter oppofite it. 
 We faw a great number of land birds and fome gulls, 
 figns that we were near land, from whence thdfe 
 fqualls arofe. 
 
 THE i4th, Calm. At nine in the evening-, as I 
 flood talking in the gallery with the captain, I faw 
 all the horizon enlightened by a very luminous fire, 
 .running from the Eaft to the North, and {hooting 
 forth red fparks. In the day-time the clouds flopped 
 and appeared like land to the Southward. 
 
 THE 1 4th, we had violent fqualls with forne thun- 
 der, Here the S. E, winds commonly end, but 
 fometimes they reach to twenty-eight degrees of lati- 
 tude. We now looked for the weiterly winds, witlj 
 which they double the Cape of Good Hope. 
 
 THE i/th, j 8th, and i9th, the weather was fine 
 although foggy , we perceived a furge coming from 
 the Weft, which always precedes a wind from that 
 qvurter. Laft night we law a fecond luminous ap- 
 pearance, and in the afternoon a Whale to the S. W, 
 a league and a half from us. They imagined in the 
 morning, that they faw a fea fowl, called the Mouton 
 de Cap, or Cape Sheep, f This bird is found in the 
 Uiiruaes of the Cape of Good Hope. * 
 
 | Called by the Englifh, Albatroffe, Thfir wings, when ex- 
 tended, will meafure ten feet, fometimes more, and have one 
 more joint than the wings of other birds ; for this reafon, if thry 
 are put on their feet upon deck, they cannoc fly away, being ou- 
 ablfi to rife ; but from the water. T. 
 
 O B S E R-
 
 32 VOYAGE to the -ISLE OF FRANCE; 
 
 OBSERVATIONS on the SKY, WINDS, 
 and BIRDS. 
 
 THE ftars to the Eaftward feem to be more lu- 
 minous than thofe to weftward. One may diftinguilh 
 befides the crofs of the fouth, the rnagellanick Con- 
 ftellation, which are two white clouds, formed by 
 multitudes of little ftars. One fide of which are feen 
 two fpaces more dark than the other parts of the 
 fky. 
 
 IN approaching the Line, the twilight decreafes 
 fo much, that the day is almoft entirely diflincT: 
 from the night. It is eafily explained, why the twi- 
 light increaies with the refraction of the rays toward 
 the poles. In thefe regions, fcarcely inhabited, light 
 is mingled with the darknefs, efpecially in the Aurora 
 Borealis, which in all places, is the greater, the lefs 
 the fun is elevated above the horizon. How very 
 inconvenient would it have been, had the night be- 
 tween the tropics partaken of day light. The night 
 feems made for the Blacks of Africa, who wait the 
 clofe of day, that they may dance and revel : 'Tis at 
 this time, that the wild beafts of thefe parts come to 
 refrefh themfelves in the rivers, and that the turtles 
 go on fhore to lay their eggs. Is there not then a 
 a fenfible heat in the rays of the fun, although refrac- 
 ted ? The torrid zone would have been uninhabitable, 
 had there been long twilights. In other refpects, the 
 night in thefe climates is finer than the day. The ri* 
 fmg moon difpels the vapours with which the air is 
 impregnated. I have fo often made this remark, that 
 I am of the failors opinion, who fay that the moon 
 fwallows up the clouds. On the other hand, can the 
 
 influence
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 53 
 
 influence of the moon upon our atmofphere be deni- 
 ed, when we allow it to have fo great a one upon the 
 ocean *. 
 
 Oi* this fide the Line, the winds in general arc 
 N. E. and on the other fide, S. E. Thefe winds ap- 
 pear to arife from the air being dilated by the fun, 
 ad reflected by the poles. The S. E. winds extend 
 farther than the N. E. as may be feen by the journal 
 of winds. They are commonly met with in three or 
 four degrees of N. latitude. The S. pole is moreover 
 colder than the N* perhaps becaufe the fun is longer 
 on the northern fide. Navigators who have attempt- 
 ed to difcpver the fouthern continent, have found ice 
 in forty-five degrees -f, 
 
 THESE winds continually waft to America, the va- 
 pours railed by die fun from the Atlantic. Thole of 
 the South-Sea, ierve to fertilize a part of Afia and 
 Africa. The wind in general blows iiarder by day 
 than by night* 
 
 WITHOUT clouds there would be no rivers , and 
 they do not contribute leis to the beauty of the He/a* 
 vens, than to the fruitfulnefs of the Earth, 
 
 I HAVE frequently admired the riling and fetting of 
 the fun : 'tis a fpeftacie not lefs difficult to djfcribe 
 than to paint. Figure to yourfclf the horizon of a 
 beautiful orange colour, tinged with green, which fts 
 it approaches to the zenith, k>fes iticlf in a lilach 
 
 * This is a part of natural philofophy which has been very lit- 
 tle attended to by the learned ; it is commonly faid, that ihe prin- 
 cipal changes of the weather, occur at the time of i,<nv and full 
 inoon ; and more particularly when (he is nearelt the earth. 7*. 
 
 f A"d forne have failed as far as 56deg. before they met with 
 ice. T. 
 
 D hue
 
 34 VOYAGE to the ISL* OF FRANCS. 
 
 hue, while the reft of the iky is of a moil glorious 
 blue. The clouds floating to and fro of a clear pearl 
 coloured grey, fometimes difpofed in long ftreaks of 
 crimfon or fcarlet -, all the tints lively, diftin<5t, and 
 
 4 * * 
 
 bordered with a fringe of gold. 
 
 ONE evening the clouds to the weft ward, appear- 
 ed in the fhape of a vaft' net, like black (ilk. As 
 foon as the fun began to pafs behind it, each mafh of 
 the net looked as if it railed in a thread of gold. The 
 gold then changed into flame colour and fcarlet, and. 
 the deeper part of the fky was coloured with light 
 teints of purple, green, and Iky blue. 
 
 A STRANGE variety of landfcapes are frequently 
 formed in the fky, in which the moft uncouth figures 
 prefent themfelves to the imagination. We fee in 
 them, promontories, fteep and rugged rocks, towers, 
 and villages, over which the light diffuies all the co- 
 lours of the prifm. 'Tis to the brilliancy of their 
 colours we muft attribute the beauty of the birds of 
 India, and the mell-fifti of thefe feas j but why are 
 not the birds of the fea of thefe countries fo handfome 
 as ours ? I will referve the examination of this prob- 
 lem to another article , and now defcribe to you thole 
 I faw flying about our fhip, with the names given 
 them by feafaring people. You may imagine that 
 this defcription cannot be a very accurate one, 
 
 THE bird moft commonly met with in all latitudes, 
 i* a fpecies of fwallow *, or halcyon, called by the 
 
 * Taken for the king's fifher, or a fpecies of it. Meige's dV- 
 fcription of the Alcyon, in his dictionary, differs totally from the 
 author's, and is as follows. " A fea-bird, that lays her eggs on 
 ' the fands She is a little bigger than a Iparrow ; her fea:heri 
 " purpie, mixed with white ; her neck long and fmail ; her bill 
 " green, long, and fLnder." It is faid when (he lays, be the 
 fea never fo ftormy, it becomes prefently calm, until the young 
 be hatched and brought up, which is the fpace of forty days. 9 
 
 Englifh
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE^ 3^ 
 
 Englifh, the foul-wearier bird> or petre?. It is of a 
 bkckim browrij fkims on the furface of the water, 
 and in bad weather follows the wake of the fhip. It 
 is probable that why it follows fhips at that time, is 
 to find a Ihelter from the wind ; for the fame reafon 
 it flies between the two furges in fkimming the water's 
 
 edge. 
 ' \^- 
 
 A"s high ifp as Cape FiriiHerre" we faw forrie fea- 
 mews, the wings of which are bordered with black. 
 They are about the fize of a duck, and fly, fluttering 
 their wings, on the furface of the lea. They do not 
 fly far from land, whither they retire every evening. 
 
 WE faw the frigate-birds firft in 2 arid half deg. 
 
 O O 
 
 of N. latitude. They were thought to come front 
 the Ifland of Afcenfion, which is in 8 deg. S. lati- 
 tude. In form and fize, they are like a itork, are 
 black and white, have wings that extend a great way, 
 arid they have a long neck. The males have under 
 their bills, a pufF oi 1km, round as a ball, and red as 
 fcarlet. This is the lightclt of all fea-birds. It 
 never refts upon the water, yet is feen three hundred 
 leagues from land, whither, 'tis affirmed, that it re- 
 hinis ev-rry evening to rooft. 
 
 The booby is fomething larger, hut more Com- 
 pact. It is white, mingled with grey, and dives when 
 purfuing its prey, which is fifh. The point of its 
 beak hooks downwards, and the (ides of it are full 
 of little marp points, which affiftit in feizing its prey. 
 The frigate-bird is at War with the booby, which is 
 better furnimed with arms, although the former has 
 more fwiftnefs and cunning, When 'the booby has 
 filled its craw with filh, the frigate attacks it, and 
 makes it give up its fpoils, which it receives in t^e 
 air. . 
 
 D 2 THE
 
 36 VOYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRANCO. 
 
 THE goelettes, are found in great flocks, de- 
 note fhallow water, and that the land is near. 
 They are white, and by their flight and lhape may 
 be taken for pigeons. 
 
 THE envergure * is a bird fomething bigger, of the 
 height of a large duck. It is white under the belly, 
 and of a greyilh brown on the wings and back. It 
 takes its name from the great extent of its wings. 
 
 THE damiers^ are found only near the Cape of Good 
 Hope. They are as big as pigeons, have a black 
 head and tail, a white belly, the back and wings 
 marked regularly with black and white, like the 
 checks of a draught-board. 
 
 AFTER the damiers we faw the mouton~de-cap -, 'tis 
 a bird fomething larger than a goofe, has a flefh-co- 
 loured beak, very extenfive wings, mixed with grey 
 and white. They are feldom found but in the lati- 
 tude of the Cape of Good Hope. I have feen all thefe 
 birds at reft upon the water except the frigate bird 
 and the envergure. The fight of them is an indica- 
 tion of the latitude, when we have been many days 
 without taking an obfervation, or when the currents 
 have made us lofe way in our longitude. It is to be 
 wiflied that able feamen would give the world their 
 obfervations hereon. Some fpecies do not go far 
 from the land, and rooft there every night. Goe'eites 
 feen out at fea, are figns of fome land, or broken 
 rocks being near , but the mancbes-de-vel-ours^ orjca- 
 y are a certain token of its neighbourhood. 
 
 THERE are alfo fome fpecies of bladed grafs, or 
 floating alg<c^ which ihould be attended to. Thefe 
 
 * Not mentioned in the Encyclopedic -7*. 
 
 feveral
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 37 
 
 feveral notices may be of uf!', inftead of amethod which 
 is not yet discovered, of determining the longi- 
 tude. They make an obfervation of the varia- 
 tion morning and evening i but this is not to be 
 depended on. t)ne cannot every day fee the fun 
 rile and fet ; moreover the variation, which is 
 the declination of the needle, varies from one year 
 tQ another under tiic lame meridian. 
 
 D 3 J U fc
 
 3 8 VOYAGE to the ISLE oi FRANCE. 
 
 JUNE, 1768. 
 
 THE jit, me wefterly winds having announced 
 themfelves, we now hoped we fhoulu ib':u double 
 the Cape. 
 
 THE zd, the neceflary precautions for this - 
 pofe were taken. New cordage was put to the wheel 
 of the rudder, and fome additional ones to the 
 fhrouds, for fec.uring the mafts. We bent four new 
 fails. The boats, and all things that were moveable 
 on board, were ilrongly laflied. The v/ind v/as very 
 frcfh. We faw fbme birds, but the frigate* no longer 
 appeared. 
 
 The ^d, 4th, and 'th, each day the wind WES 
 very frefh, except yefterday when it fubfided a little. 
 We faw every day a prodigious number of ^eleties^ 
 uteutonsi w&damiers, and the Cape reed*, which re- 
 fembles the long trumpet uied by fhepherds. The 
 failors make a kind of trumpets of thefe hollow (talks. 
 The fea was covered with furf, another fign of our 
 being near the Cape. Fifteen men are rendered un- 
 fit for fervice by the fcurvy. 
 
 THE 7th at noon, a bird of the fjze of a goofe, 
 with fhort wings, tawny coloured and brown, a head 
 like a hen, a fhort tail, fhaped like a leaf of trefoil, 
 has fixed upon our mafts for fome time. By all the 
 bearings, we ought to find the Cape hereabouts. 
 Saw the fame birds. 
 
 THE 9th, diforders and dejection increafe in the 
 fhip. One of the mates died of the 
 
 * EngHfh fdilors call it trnok-weed. T. 
 
 
 
 THE
 
 VOYAGE to tkt ISLF OF FRANCE. 39 
 
 THE 1 2th, as the fea appeared greenifh, we 
 founded, but found no bottom. The wind very 
 Erefh, and a great fea. 
 
 THE i3tk, we at length came into foundings of 
 ninety-five fathoms, a muddy and greenifh bottom. 
 This rejoiced us exceedingly. The great depth 
 convinced us that we had loft way to the weflward. 
 We faw two mips, one a-ftern, the other over our 
 itarboard cat-head. The foundings afcertain where 
 we are, but inform us, that we have mifreckoncd 
 above two hundred leagues in our journal. 
 
 THE 1 5th, blew frefh. The veiTel a-ftern hoifted 
 Englifh colours, and foon pafied by us at about 
 a league and a half to leeward. The other hoifted 
 French colours, and as fhe was before the wind, Ihe 
 lowered her fails in order to join us, bearing up as 
 near as fhe could. Our -captain did not think pro- 
 per -t come to, i'h" proved to be the Digue rmn of 
 war, that failed a month before us. Towards even- 
 ing fhe hoiitxxl all her fails, and fleered in our coudV. 
 
 i/th, it proved calm. We faw fome wha!.> 
 .2Jl4 dorados* 
 
 THE i#th in the morning we had a gale of wind, 
 that obliged us to remain till eleven at night under 
 our mizen. 7"here rofe at the: extremity of each wave 
 a white powder like the duft blown by the wind along 
 a road. At feyerj o'clock we fliip'ped a fea at the 
 great cabj^in windows. At eight o'clock it hailed, 
 and at midnight the weather grew fine. 
 
 THE 22d, the wind very frcfli and a rolling f\.. 
 The opinion of the Ancients that the wither was 
 ralm durins; the folftice, was erroneous. 1 have thi- 
 
 O , 
 
 D 4 afternooii
 
 40 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRA::CZ. 
 
 afternoon read an obfervation in Dampier's voyages, 
 that the fun's diiappearing at about three in the after- 
 noon behind a range of high and thick clouds, is a. 
 fign of a violent itorm. Waen I went upon deck, 
 -the fky difcovered all thefe figns deicribed by 
 Pampier. 
 
 THE 23d, at half pad twelye in the night, a great 
 fea beat in four of the five great cabbin-windows, 
 though the dead-lights were barred like a St. An- 
 drew's crofs. The vefiel pitched, as if fae would 
 . have ilood an end in the water. Hearing the noife> 
 I opened the door of my chamber, which was in- 
 ftantly filled with water and the furniture that floated 
 about. The water ran out at the door of the great 
 cabbin like the iluice of mill j above., thirty hogflneads 
 of water came in by this accident. The carpenters 
 were called, lights were brought, and new boards 
 nailed againft the windows as quickly as pofUble. 
 "We now ran under a mizen, and the wind and fea 
 were truly "frightful. 
 
 THIS diforder was fcarcely put to rights, before 
 a large ch^eft that ferved for a table, full of fait and 
 bottles of champagne, broke its l.aihings. The roll- 
 ing of the mip threw it to and fro like a die. This 
 enormous box weighed many tons, and threatened us, 
 with being cruihed to pieces in pur rooms. At lait 
 it burit open, and the bottles rolling about and 
 breaking, cau ; fed a confufion that is inexpreffible. 
 The carpenters returned, arid with the greateft dim\ 
 culty replaced and fattened it. 
 
 THE rolling of the fhip not fuffering me to deep, 
 I lay down u'pon the bed in my boots and morning- 
 gown : my dog feemed in the greateft fright, arid, 
 while I amufecl myfeif with foothing him, I law a 
 fUfh of light'ning th'rougK the crevis of the porthole, 
 
 and
 
 VOYAGE io tie ISLE OF FRANCE. 41 
 
 and heard it thunder. 'Twas about half paft three 
 in the morning. In a moment, a fecond clap of thun- 
 der broke, and the dog began to fly about and howl. 
 The light'ning flamed again in an inflant. Thunder 
 immediately iollowing, I heard 'em cry out upon 
 deck, that ibme fhip was in danger ; in fact the noife 
 was like the report of a cannon fired near us, as it 
 did not roll at all. Perceiving a flrong fmell of ful- 
 phur, I went upon deck, and immediately felt it 
 exceffively cold. Every thing was filentj and the 
 night fo dark, I could diitinguim nothing. I pre- 
 fently perceived fomebody near me, and afked, what 
 was the matter ? The man anfwered, " They arc 
 " carrying the Quarter-mafter to his birth ; he has 
 " fainted away, and fo has the Pilot. The thunder 
 < c has fallen upon the fliip, and fhivered the main- 
 " maft." Indeed, I found the main-top-fatl yard 
 was fallen upon the main-top. Neither maft nor 
 rigging appeared, the crew were all retired to the 
 Council-Chamber *. 
 
 THEY made a ring upon the fore-caftle. The 
 thunder had defcendecl fo lar along; the maft. A wo- 
 
 ^j 
 
 man who had juft lain in, had feen a globe of fire at 
 the foot of her bed , yet nobody could diicover any 
 {race of the fire. - Day light was looked for with im- 
 patience. 
 
 AT day break I again went upon deck. Some 
 very black clouds, appeared, and others of a copper 
 colour. The wind was weiterly, where the horizon 
 appeared of a flaming red, as if the fun was going to 
 nfc in that quarter. The Eaft was totally black. 
 The fea formed monftrous waves, that rofe like 
 pointed mountains, compofed of a number of fmaller 
 hills ; on their fummits were raifed fpouts of foam, 
 
 * There is no Council-Chamber in our EngJifh ftiipy, nor do I 
 know what par: is fo called by the French in theirs. T. 
 
 cojoure4
 
 42 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 ^coloured like To many rainbows. They were throwjj 
 fo high, as to appear from the quarter-deck, to be 
 fiigher than the tops. The wind made fo much 
 noife in the rigging, that we could fcarcely hear each 
 other fpeak. We ran before the wind under a mizen 
 only. A piece of the top-maft hung from the end 
 of the main-maft, which was fplit in eight places to 
 a level -with the deck. Five of the iron rings with 
 which it was bound, were melted. The gangways 
 were covered with the broken pieces; of the top, and 
 main top-maft. At the' rifing of the fun, the wind 
 alfo rofe with a redoubled and inexpreflrble fury. 
 The fhip no longer to be guided by the helm, went 
 which way foever the wind or the waves drove her. The 
 mizen-fail having gibed its braces, broke foon after ; 
 the force with which it was continually ftriking againft 
 the maft, we feared would have broken the latter by 
 the board. In an inftant, the forecaftle was under 
 water. The waves broke over the larboard cat-head, 
 in fo much, that the bowfprit was not to be feen. 
 Clouds of furf inundated even as high as the poop. 
 The (hip, by not fleering, prefented her fide to the 
 waves, and at every roll took in water even to the 
 foot of the main-maft, and rofe again with the utmoflj 
 difficulty. 
 
 THE Captain in this moment of danger, called out 
 to the Pilots to put before the wind ; but the veflel 
 could not be in the leaft affected by the helm. He 
 ordered the failors to reef the mizen, which the wind 
 was carrying away piece-meal ; the poor fellows were 
 flickering themfelves under the quarter-deck, fome 
 crying, others fallen on their knees, and praying. I 
 crept along the larboard gangway, griping fail by the 
 tackling, and was followed by a Dominican who was 
 chaplain of the fhip, a pafienger, and by feveral of 
 the feamen, arid we ;i; kngth ditl rt.d" the fail, though 
 
 above
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE op FRANCE. 48 
 
 abovt half of it was carried away. They wanted to 
 have bent a ftay-fail, in order to put before the wind, 
 but it vvas torn like a Iheet of paper. , 
 
 WE remained then like a log, rolling about in a 
 xnoft frightful manner ; having one time let go the 
 tackle I held by, I (lid as far as the foot of the main- 
 maft, where the water was up to my knees. In 
 fhort, next to God, we were indebted for our fafety, 
 t> the Itrength of the Ihip, and to her having three 
 4~cks, without which ihe niuft have filled. Thus we 
 were toiled about till the evening, when the ftorm 
 abated. The moyeable furniture was almoft entirely 
 topfy-turvy, or broken to pieces : and I more than 
 once found myfelf upright on my feet upon the wain- 
 fcot of my cabbin, 
 
 SUCH was the tribute that we paid in the ftreights 
 .of Mozambique *. The paflage through which is 
 more dreaded by feamen, than doubling the Cape of 
 Good Hope. The Officers declared, they never faw 
 fo great a fea. All the upper works of the (hip were 
 fo (haken by it, that into the joints of the pilafters of 
 the great cabbin, I put mutton bones, which were 
 crufhed to pieces by the play of the timbers. 
 
 THE 24th, at four in the morning it fell calm, the 
 fea was (till very high. The people worked hard all 
 day, in bringing the main-yard to its right place, and 
 in fitting two fifties to (trengthen the main-maft. The 
 effects of the lightening are not to be defcribed. The 
 
 * In this ftrait the Aurora Frigate, with the Haft-India Super, 
 vilors on hoard, is fuppofecl to have been loll. The Portugueze 
 have a lar^e f ttlemeut at Mozambique, which is iituated on an 
 ifland in i^dtg. S. The (own is populous and well fortified ; 
 and the harbour kfe and commodious. T. 
 
 THE
 
 44 VOYAGE to tbs ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 mainmaft is fplit in a zig-zag, five feet of the mad 
 immediately under the top, is fplintered, forward, 
 or towards the head of the fhip ; then five feet on 
 the afterfide, or towards the ftern, is fplintered , and 
 fo five feet alternately, the whole length of the maft 
 to the deck , fo that the found on the one fide, anfwers 
 to the mattered on the other. In thefe cracks I could 
 not perceive any fmell or blacknefs, the wood' being 
 of it's ufual colour. 
 
 WE faw forne Moutons de Cap. The weather 
 killed the- remains of our live ftock, and doubled the 
 number of men lick of the fcurvy. 
 
 THE 25th, was fpent in belaying and fattening the 
 two limes round the maft ; they were tv/o pieces of 
 timber, forty-five feet long v hollowed out in grooves, 
 to fit the circumference of the malt. Every man put 
 his hand to this work, on account of the fickly ftate 
 of the crew. A Whale paffed us, within piftol mot, 
 it was fcarcely the length of the long boat. 
 
 THE 26th, middling weather-, TV deum was fung 
 according to cuftom^ to thank God for having pafiecT 
 the Cape, and the Straits of Mozambique. 
 
 THE 2yth, we completed the maft fo far, that :t 
 would carry the main fail- One man died of the 
 fcurvy , and twenty-one menwere rendered unfit fop 
 fervice by ficknefs. 
 
 THE 29th, a child of only eight days old died of 
 the fcurvy. There are now twenty-eight failors in 
 the Lazarette. To make out the watch, we have 
 been forced to take the domeitick fervants that are 
 on board, and alib the pa/Tengcrs, that are not of the 
 Great Cabbin. 
 
 THE
 
 VOYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRANCE. 45 
 
 THE 3Oth, our uneafmefs was encreafed, by the 
 melancholy condition of the crew. Here the wefterly 
 winds are at an end. We keep in a high latitude, 
 that we may have the S. W. winds which blow cort- 
 itantly hereabouts, and endeavour to keep to wind- 
 ward of the iiland of Rodorigue, to make the I fie 
 of France with the greater certainty. 
 
 OBSERVATIONS that might be of ufc for 
 the better Government of Seamen. 
 
 THERE did not feem to me to be a proper 
 fubordination among the officers ; the fuperiors are 
 afraid of the interelt of their inferiors. The chief 
 part of thefe appointments being obtained by favour, 
 I do not think that an authority can be eitablifhed 
 among them as it ought to be ^ and the evil being 
 dependent upon the manners of the perfons concern- 
 ed, is, in my opinion, without remedy. 
 
 No mip mould flay more than three months at fea, 
 without going into port. The failors have not water 
 enough for a longer trip, in thefe hot climates ^ 
 being frequently reduced to half-a-pint a day. Could, 
 not that part of the mip, where the ballaft is put, be 
 divided into leaden citterns and filled with frefh 
 water , or could not fome kind of wax or maflic be 
 found out, with which the cafks might be done over 
 to prevent the water from corrupting. It is fome* 
 times fo much tainted, and fo full of worms, as to be 
 really intolerable. 
 
 As for the (alt water, that is rendered frem by a 
 machine, it is not thought wholefome : befides, a 
 great deal of fea-cpal muft be taken on board, which 
 
 occupies
 
 46 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANC;.: 
 
 occupies too much room, and is fubjeft to take fire ; 
 and the additional dangerous inconvenience of keep- 
 ing a Furnace burning night and day.* 
 
 THE feamen are very ill victualled ; their bifcuit 
 is full of worms ; the fait beef, in a fhort time, be- 
 comes both a difagreeable and unwholefome food. 
 Could not provifions be drefTed and preferved in fat, 
 The Great Cabbin was ferved with meat fo prepared, 
 which kept as well as the faked beef. 
 
 WHEN on fhore, the failors will fpend as mucft 
 money in a week, as they have been a year in earning. 
 1 mould think each man might be provided with 
 proper cloathirig, which they mould be obliged to 
 take care of, by the frequent reviews of its corrdition 
 by proper officers. Such a precaution would cer- 
 tainly, in fome degree, preven-t their extravagance. 
 Several other regulations might be thought of, which 
 properly attended to by the officer?, would tend 
 much to their cleanlinefs and decent appearance. 
 The major part of thefe poor fellows need always be? 
 under a tutor. 
 
 * Experience has fliewn, that Dr. Irvia's method is of great 
 Utility. T, 
 
 JULY,
 
 VOYAGE to tie IstE OF FRANCA. 47 
 
 J U L Y, 1768. 
 
 THE 3^ Tills evening one of the carpenters 
 died of the fcurvy ; forty people are now ill of it> 
 and it makes a fenfibie progrefs, owing to the ex- 
 halations from the hold filled with mafts, that have 
 for a long time been layng in mud. 
 
 THE 9th, one of the failors upon the watch died 
 fuddenly. We have all been very faint and- w,eak to- 
 day , fome have had vertigoes and ficknefs at their 
 ftomachs. We are, notwithitanding, more than one 
 hundred leagues to windward of any known land. 
 
 THE nth, fair wind; fixty-fix of the men are 
 now fick in their beds -, if we mould remain eight 
 days logger at fea, we muft infallibly perifh. 
 
 THE 1 2th, fine weather and fea ', there are no more 
 than three foremaft men to each watch j the officers 
 and pafiengers help to work the fliip. 
 
 THE i jth, at half paft eight this morning, lan<J 
 appeared. We are fo caft down, that the news re* 
 joices*no body. Eighty meji are now ill with the 
 diftemper. 
 
 THE i4tlj, on approaching the land, many of the 
 people found themfelves fick. I felt uneafmefs all over 
 me, and fweated abundantly. We hoiiled the colours 
 and fired guns for aOiitance ; bur s. pilot alone came 
 on board. He told us of the. differences among the 
 chief people, of the ifland, about which, J fuppofe, 
 he thought us very anxious : on the other hand, 
 many of the people on board weje of opinion, that 
 
 the
 
 48 VOYAGE to the ISLE of FRANCE. 
 
 the complaints and miferies we had laboured under, 
 would be a matter of great concern to the inhabitants 
 on more. 
 
 WE prefently left to our right, two fmall inhabited 
 iflands, called Round liland, and the Ifle of Serpents : 
 we next paffed within gun-mot of Coin de Mire^ ano- 
 ther ifland on the left. We kept at a good diftance 
 from the more, on account of the ihoal, at Point aux 
 Cannoniers. 
 
 At half paft one, in the afternoon, we entered the 
 harbour-, two hours after, I landed, thanking God 
 for having delivered me from the dangers and fatigues 
 of fo dreadful a voyage. 
 
 We were at fea four months and twelve days, with- 
 out touching at any port. According to my journal, 
 we have failed about three thoufand eight hundred 
 marine, or four thoufand feven hundred common 
 leagues : and have loft eleven perfons, including the 
 three men carried away by the fea$ and one who died 
 as he was going afhore. 
 
 OBSERVATIONS on the SCtTRVY, 
 
 THE fcurvy is occafloned by the bad quality of 
 the air and of the provifions. The officers, who 
 are better fed and better lodged than the failors, are 
 the laft attacked by this diforder, which arFefts 
 even the animals on board : my dog was very much 
 troubled with it. There is no abiolute cure for it, 
 but the air of the land and the uie of frefh vegetables, 
 although there are fome palliatives which may mo- 
 derate it's effects j as the uie of rice, acid liquors, 
 
 coffee,
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 49 
 
 coffee, and abftinence from all faked provifions. 
 Great virtues are attributed to the ufe of turtle, but 
 like other prejudices, this is adopted by feamen upon 
 flight grounds only. At the Cape of Good Hope, 
 where there are no turtles, the fcurvy is cured as 
 quickly as in the hofpital at the Ifle of France, where 
 the patient is fed with broths of this animal. On 
 our arrival, almoft every body ufed this remedy ; 
 but not being fond of turtle, I did not eat of it, but 
 of frefh vegetables ; I was well before any of them. 
 
 THE fcurvy's firft fymptoms is a general laffitude \ 
 the fick perfon v/iihes for reft, is uneafy in his mind, 
 and difguded with every thing , all day long he is 
 in difqui^t, and is only relieved from it by the night : 
 it's next, are red fpots on his breaft and legs, and 
 bleeding ulcers in the gums. There are frequently 
 no external fymptoms , but, if a man gets the flighteil 
 wound imaginable, it is incurable, while at fea ; and 
 makes the moil rapid progrels. I myfelf had a very 
 flight wound at the end of -my finger , in three weeks 
 the fore had taken off the fkin entirely ; and not- 
 withstanding all the remedies that were applied, ex- 
 tended itielf to my hand. A few days after my 
 landing, it healed of itfelf. Before the fick were 
 landed, they took care to expofe them for a whole 
 day to the air from the {hore. Notwithftanding thefe 
 precautions, it coil one-man his life, who was not able 
 to bear the change. 
 
 I CANNOT defcribe to you the miferable fituatiort 
 we were in at our arrival. Figure to yourfelf a fhip, 
 with it's main maft mattered to pieces by light'ning, 
 with a waft upon it's enfign, and firing minute-guns 
 us fignals of diftreis ; failors more like ipec~bes than 
 men, fitting upon deck ; the fcuttles all open and 
 emitting a vapour that infed-xl the air j the ibrecaitle 
 
 E and
 
 50 VOYAGE to the IsU OF FRANCE. 
 
 and poop covered with fick men, expofed there for 
 the benefit of the fun, and who died even while 
 fpeaking to us. I mall never forget a lad of eighteen 
 years old, to whom I had promifed fome lemonade 
 the evening before. I was leeking for him among 
 the reft, when they fhewed him to me, lying dead in 
 the cook-room. 
 
 LETTER V. 
 
 NAUTICAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 BEFORE I give yoti an account of the Ifle of 
 France, I mail add to my journal the obferva- 
 tions of the moft able feamen upon the voyage we 
 have made. 
 
 REGULAR as the trade winds are in general, they 
 are, notwithftanding, variable along the coaft, and 
 in the neighbourhood of iflands. 
 
 A BREEZE blows off the land almoft every night, 
 along the mores of the great continents. This wind 
 blowing in a different direction from the fea breeze, 
 brings the clouds together into one long motionlefs 
 range, which veffels rarely fail feeing as they ap- 
 proach the land. 
 
 NEAR the coafts, it is in general, ftormy, efpe- 
 cially in the neighbourhod of iflands. The winds 
 
 in
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 51 
 
 in thcfe parts vary much. At the Canaries* the S. 
 and S. E. winds blow fometimes for eight days fuc- 
 cefllvely. 
 
 THE trade winds are firft met with, about twenty- 
 eight degrees North latitude , but they feldom con- 
 tinue fo far as die Line. An experienced feaman has 
 given me the following account of the ceafmg of the 
 trade winds, which he has with much labour collecl:- 
 ed from more than two hundred and fifty journals of 
 this voyage : 
 
 In January, between the 6th and 4th degrees, of 
 
 North latitude. 
 
 In February, between the 5th and ^d degrees. 
 In March and April, between the 5th and 2d degrees. 
 In May, between the 6th and 4th degrees. 
 In June, in the icth degree. 
 In July, in the i2th degree. 
 In Auguft and September, between the i4th and 1 3th 
 
 . degrees. 
 
 And during the months of Odober, November, and 
 December, they blow as far as the Line.* 
 
 -f BETWEEN the trade and the general winds, by 
 which is meant the trade winds Ibuthward of the 
 Line, the wind is variable and ftormy. The general 
 winds extend much farther than the trade ; they reach 
 as far as twenty-eight degrees fouth. Beyond which 
 
 * The fou-hern trade wind hss been known to blow farther 
 north than the Line; and the northern, at other times, to bs ex- 
 tended to the fjuthward of the Line ; but this rarely happens. T. 
 
 f B Varenius, in his Geograpbia Generalis, gives a particular 
 account of the winds, (cap. 20. and 21.) and of the variation of 
 the needle, (cap. 38.) and in the appendix prefixed by Sir Ifaac 
 Newton, and Dr. Juri*, to the edition they publifhed in 1712, 
 (page 31 and 49 ) are colle&ed Dr. Hai'ty'* oblervations upon tl.c 
 lame lubjects. T. 
 
 E 2 latitude
 
 $2 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 latitude the winds vary more than in the Teas of 
 Europe j and the higher the latitude the more violent 
 they are ; blowing generally from the N. to N. W.; 
 and from the N. W. to the S. S. W. when they 
 get round to the S. a calm fucceeds. 
 
 NEAR the Cape of Good Hope, S. E. and E. S. E. 
 winds are frequently met with. It is a general 
 maxim to keep to the windward of the place intended 
 to be made ; yet not too much fo, as the fhip would 
 make too much leeway. It is belt to crofs the Line 
 as much to the Eaftward as poflible. 
 
 If a fhip is in want of provifions, fhe may be bet- 
 ter fupplied at the Cape de Verd I (lands than at Brafil, 
 where they are very dear ; befides that, the air of the 
 place is very unwholfome. Turtle is catched in 
 great plenty at the ifland of Triitan d'Aconia, but 
 water is hard to be got, on account of the trees, 
 which grow in the fea. 
 
 IT is dangerous to put in at the Cape of Good Hope 
 from April to September ; but the anchorage is per- 
 fectly fafe at Fatfe-bay^ which is very little diftant. 
 If a veflel mifles the I fie of France, it may put in at 
 Madagafcar, at Port Dauphin, or Bay of Antongil ; 
 but there are dangerous epidemical diftempers, and 
 hurricanes on that coaft, which lail from October 
 till May. 
 
 RETURNING to Europe, there is St. Helena, an 
 Englifh fettlement; and the ifland of Afcenfion, 
 where, however, nothing can be got but turtle. In 
 time of war, the two iflands are commonly cruizing 
 Rations, all Ihips from the other fide of the Cape 
 endeavour to make them, in order to ascertain their 
 route. 
 
 THE
 
 VOYAGE to tie ISLE or FRANCE. 53 
 
 THE charts moft in repute are Monfieur Dapre's ; 
 bailors are alfo much indebted to the learned and 
 modefl Abbe de Caille. But the geography of thefe 
 parts is yet very imperfect. The longitude of the 
 Canaries, and of the Cape de Verd iflands, is not 
 well laid down. Between Cape Blanco and Cape 
 Verd, the chart fays, there are thirty-nine leagues 
 difference, although there really are not twenty. 
 
 A SHOAL is fufpefted to be at about twenty minutes 
 South of the Line, and about twenty-three degrees 
 ten minutes longitude: in 1764, two French mips 
 touched the bottom. 
 
 SEAMEN are liable to be led into great errors by 
 the currents. I am of opinion, that nothing certain 
 relative to them can be determined upon, 'till a 
 method is difcovered, of afcertaining the quantity of 
 a fhip's leeway : even the angle me forms with her 
 Wake, will not lead to a decifion of this matter ; be- 
 caufe the fhip and her trace have one caufe, th* 
 fhip's motion. 
 
 THE hardinefs of the navigators, who firft made 
 thefe voyages, without experience and without charts, 
 cannot be fufficiently admired. Thofe of the prefent 
 day have much more information, and lefs refolution. 
 Navigation is become a mere routine. Ships fail at 
 a particular feafon, make the fame places, and fleer 
 the fame courfes. It were to be wilhed, that fome 
 vefiels might be Hiked in making difcoveries, that 
 might aflure the fafety of others. 
 
 LETTER
 
 54 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 LETTER VI. 
 
 THE Ifle of France was difcovered by a Por- 
 tugueze, of the family of Mafcarenhas,- who 
 called it Ifle de Cerm. It was afterwards pofleffed by 
 the Dutch, who gave it the name of Mauritius. They 
 abandoned it in 1712, and foon after the French, 
 inhabitants of the Ifle of Bourbon, which is only forty 
 leagues diftant, came and fettled themfelves there. 
 
 THERE are two ports in this ifland ; that on the 
 S. E. where the Dutch fettlement was, and where 
 remains of their buildings are Hill feen, is the prin- 
 cipal port. It may be entered before the wind ; but 
 it is difficult to get out of it : the winds being almoft 
 ever at S. E. 
 
 THE fmaller port, or Port Louis, is to the N. W. 
 a Ihip may go in or out of it, large, before the wind. 
 It's latitude is twenty degrees ten minutes S, and it's 
 longitude, from the meridian of Paris, fifty-five de- 
 grees E. This is the capital of the ifland, 'though 
 fituated in the moft dhagreeable part of it. ' The 
 town, called alfo the Camp, and which has fcarcely 
 the appearance' of a market town, is built at the 
 bottom of the port, and at the opening 'of a valley, 
 which is about three quarters of a league' long, and 
 eight hundred or a 'thoufand yards wide.* This 
 valley is formed by a chain of high mountains, 
 covered with rocks , but without trees or biifhes. 
 The fides of thefe mountains are covered fix months 
 in the^ydar, with a burning herb, which makes the 
 
 country;
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 55 
 
 country appear black, like a colliery. The edge of 
 the rocks, whip h form this difmal vale, is broken 
 and craggy. The higheit part is at the extremity, 
 and terminates in a rock, ftanding by itfelf, which 
 they call the Pouce. This part, hbwever ? has a few 
 trees , and there iffues from it a rivulet, which runs 
 through the town ; but the water is not good to 
 drink. 
 
 As for the town or camp, it confifts of wooden 
 houfes of one ftory high -, each houfe ftands by itfelf, 
 and is inclofcd in pallifa:ks. The ftreets are regular 
 enough, but are neither paved nor planted with 
 trees. The ground is every where fo covered, and 
 as it were ftaked with rocks, that there is no ftirring 
 without danger of breaking one's neck. The town 
 is neither walled nor fortified in the leaft, except 
 that on the left, when looking to the fea, there is 
 a fort of intrenchment of {tone, reaching frorn the 
 mountain to the harbour ; on this fame fide is Fort- 
 Blanc, that defends its entrance ; on the other fide 
 is a battery upon the Ifle of Tonnslkers. 
 
 According, to the meafurement of the Abbe de 
 Caille, the Ille of France is ninety thoul'and, fix hun- 
 dred and fixty-eight fathoms in ' circumference ; it's 
 greateft diameter is thirty-one thoufand, eight hun- 
 dred and ninety fathoms from N. to S. - y and twenty- 
 two thoufand, one hundred and twenty-four from 
 E. to W. , its fuperficial content is four hundred 
 thirty-two thoufand, fix hundred and eighty acres, 
 of one hundred perches the acre^ and twenty feet 
 the perch. 
 
 THE N. W. part of the ifland is apparently- 
 
 and the S. W. covered with ridges of mountains, 
 
 from three hundred to three hundred and fifty fathom 
 
 E 4 high,
 
 56 VOYAGE to the ISLE of FRANCE. 
 
 Jiigh. The higheft of all is four hundred and twenty- 
 jbur fathom, and ftands at the mouth of the river 
 Noire, The moft remarkable, called Pieterboth^ is 
 four hundred and twenty toifes high ; it is terminated 
 by an obelifk, which is 'again covered with a cubical 
 rock, upon which no perfon has ever yet been. At 
 a diftance, this pyramid and it's capital, refemble 
 the ftatue of a woman. 
 
 THE ifland is watered by above fixty rivulets, fomc 
 of which have no water in the dry feafon, efpecially 
 fmce fo much timber has been cut down. The in- 
 terior part of the ifland is full of ponds, and in this 
 part it rains nearly all the year round, the clouds 
 being flopped by the mountains, and the woods at 
 the top of them. 
 
 I CANNOT give you a more perfect account of a 
 place in which I am but juft arrived. I expert to 
 pafs a few days in the country, and will endeavour 
 to defcribe to you what relates to the foil of this 
 ifland, before I fpeak of it's inhabitants. 
 
 PORT Louis, 
 Aug. 6, 1768, 
 
 LET,
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 57 
 LETTER VII. 
 
 Of the Soil and natural Productions of the ISLE of 
 FRANCE. 
 
 EVERY thing here differs from what is feen hi 
 Europe, even the herbage of the country. To 
 begin with the foil : It is almoft every where of a reddilh 
 colour, and mixed with veins of iron, which are fre- 
 quently found near the furface, in the form of grains, 
 the lize of a pea. In the drier parts, efpecially near 
 the town, the ground is very hard. It refembles 
 pipe-clay, and to make trenches in it, I have feen 
 them cut it with axes, as they do lead. As foon as 
 it rajns, it becomes foft and tenacious ; notwith- 
 ftanding they have not yet been able to make it into 
 bricks. 
 
 THERE is no real fand in the foil. That which is 
 found on the more, is compofed of fragments of 
 madrepores and fhells, which will calcine in the fire. 
 
 THE ground is almoft every where covered with 
 rocks, from the fize of one's fift to a ton weight. They 
 are full of holes, the bottom of which is in the form 
 of a lentil. 
 
 MANY of thefe rocks are formed of concentrical 
 laminae, like an onion. Some of them are in large 
 mafles, that adhere together. Others feem as if they 
 had been broken, and were again joined together. 
 The ifland is in a manner paved with thefe rocks, 
 and the mountains are formed entirely of thefe ftrata, 
 jyhich are oblique to the horizon, although parallel 
 
 to
 
 58 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 to each other. They are of an iron grey colour, vi- 
 trify in the fire, and contain a great deal of iron ore. 
 1 faw at the foundry, fome grains of beautiful copper 
 and lead, that were taken from fome of the fiifures 
 in the rocks, but in a very fmall quantity. Expe- 
 riments of this nature afford no encouragement here, 
 The mineral appears to be too much dilperfed. In 
 the broken pieces of thefe ftones, there are little ca- 
 vities criitalized, fome of which contain a down * y 
 that is white and very fine. 
 
 I KNOW only of three fpecies of herbs or gramen, 
 that are natural to the foil, 
 
 ALONG the fea-fhore is found a fort of turf, that 
 grows in beds, very thick and elaftic. Its leaf is 
 very fmall, and fo fharp pointed, as to prick through 
 one's clothes. The cattle will not touch it. 
 
 IN the hotteft part of the ifland, the paftures are 
 of a. kind of dog's grafs, which fpreads much upon 
 the ground, and puts out little branches from the 
 joints. This herb is very hard. The oxen like it 
 very well, if not too dry. 
 
 THE bed herb grows in the airy and windward fide 
 of the ifiand. *Tis a gramen, with large leaves, ancj 
 is green* and. tender all the year. 
 
 THE other fpecies of herbs and fhrubs that are 
 known, are, a plant that yields for fruit, a hulk fil- 
 led with a-kind of iiik, of which an advantageous ufe 
 might be nude. 
 
 A KIND of afparagus, prickly, and that grows, 
 above twelve feet high, round the trees, as the bram- 
 
 * Probably a fpecies cf the Affceftqs. T* 
 
 bb
 
 VQYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRANCE. 59 
 
 ble or briar. Jt is not yet known whether this is 
 good to cat. 
 
 A kind of mallow fhrub with fmall leaves, that 
 crows in the paths, and fides of the roads. There 
 is alfo a kind of thiflle with yellow flowers, the 
 feeds of which kill the birds that eat them , and a 
 plant that is like the lilly, bearing long leaves. 
 It grows in marfhy ground, and has a flower of a 
 
 grateful fmell. 
 >j 
 
 UPON walls, and by the fides of the roads I found 
 fome tufts of a plant, whole flower refembles the 
 plain red July-flower , It has a bad fmell, and this 
 angular property, that only one flower flourifhes up- 
 on each branch at one time. 
 
 AT the foot of the neighbouring mountains, there 
 grows a fweet bafil, the fmell of it is like that of a 
 July-flower. Its flalk is ligneous. It is of a healing 
 quality. 
 
 THE Raguettes, of which they here make very 
 dangerous hedges, bear a yellow flower, marbled 
 with red. This plant is ftuck full of very fharp 
 prickles, that grow upon the leaves ; and alfo upon 
 the fruit. The leaves are very thick. The fruit is 
 never ufed, and is of a four tafte. 
 
 THE Veloutier grows upon the fand on the fea- 
 fhore. Its branches have a down upon them, like 
 that of velvet. The leaves are entirely covered with 
 glittering filaments. It bears flowers in clufters. 
 This fhrub exhales an odour, that at a diftance is 
 agreeable, 'lefs fo when you draw near, and when 
 quite clofe is perfectly loathfome. 
 
 THERE
 
 I 
 
 60 VOYAGE to tbe ISLE OF F 
 
 THERE is a kind of plant, half bramble, half ih rub, 
 that produces in pods, briftled with prickles, a fort 
 of nut, very fmooth and hard, of a pearl colour 
 grey, and the fize of a mufquet-ball. Its kernel is 
 very bitter. Thefe nuts are good for the venereal 
 difeafe. 
 
 In the parts of the ifland that are cleared, there 
 grows a great number of a kind of (hrub, that has 
 large leaves, in the fhape of a heart. Its fmell is 
 iweet enough, and like that of balm > whofe name it 
 bears. I Jtnow of no ufe made of it, except in 
 baths. 
 
 ANOTHER plant equally ufelefs,is thefalfe potatoe, 
 which grows twining along the fea-fide. It fpreads 
 on the ground ilke the liferon. Its flowers are red, 
 and like a bell. It thrives in the (and. 
 
 UPON the borders of the wood's is found a ligneous 
 herb called, Pannier-grajs *. They have attemptnd 
 to make thread and cloth of it, which is not bad. 
 Its leaves are fmall. Taken in barley-water, they 
 are good for complaints in the breaft. 
 
 THERE is a great variety of fhrubs all comprized 
 under the general name of -f liannes^ fome of which are 
 as thick as a man's leg, and grow round the trees, 
 making the trunks look like a mail furnimed with rig- 
 ging. They, however, fupport the trees againft the 
 hurricanes, of whofe violence I have feen frequent 
 proofs. When they fell timber in the woods, they 
 cut about two hundred trees near the root, which re- 
 main upright till the liannes y which hold them, are 
 cmt down alfo. When this is done, one whole part 
 of the foreft feerns to fall at once, making a moft 
 
 * Hwbe a pannier. T. * A Rattan, or Supple Jack. 7*. 
 
 horrid
 
 VOYAGE to tit ISLE OF ERANCE. 6f 
 
 horrid crafh. Cords are made of their bark, ftronger 
 than of hemp. 
 
 There are many flarubs which bear a flower like 
 that of the box-tree. 
 
 A PRICKLY and fpungy fhrub, with a red flower, 
 in a hoop, and fcolloped. Its leaf is large and round. 
 The fifhermen ufe the ftaik of it (which is very light) 
 inftead of cork. 
 
 ANOTHER flirub, which is a very pretty one, call- 
 ed, -f bois-de-demoifelle. Its leaf is fcolloped at the 
 edge, like that of the am, and its branches ornament- 
 ed with fmall red feeds. 
 
 BEFORE I proceed, you will obferve, that I know 
 nothing of botany. I defcribc tilings as I fee them ^ 
 but if you will rely upon my opinion, I declare to 
 you, that I think every thing inferior to the produc- 
 tions of Europe. 
 
 THE meadows do not produce a Tingle flower, but 
 are entirely covered with fmall itones, and overgrown 
 with an herb as hard, and as tough as hemp. No 
 plant bears flowers of a pleafant fmell, nor is any 
 flirub in the I Hand to be compared to our white 
 thorn. The liannes have not the fragrancy of the 
 honeyfuckle or ivy. Not one violet in all the woods, 
 As to the trees, they have large whitifli trunks, that 
 are bare, except a little kind of nofegay of leaves of 
 a dull green. I will defcribe them in my next letter. 
 
 PORT-LOUIS, ISLE-QF-FRANCE, Sept. i$th t 1768. 
 f Lady's Wood.
 
 VOYAGE to tbc ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 LETTER VIII. 
 
 SOME days ago I perceived a large tree in the 
 middle of fome rocks, and being defirous of cut- 
 ting a piece with my knife, was furprized at the whole 
 blade entering without my ufmg the leaft force. It 
 was of a fubftance like a turnip, and of a very difagree- 
 able tafte ; for fome hours after, (although I did not 
 fwallow any part of it) my throat was much enflam- 
 ed, and felt as if pricked by pins. This tree is called 
 mapou, and is looked upon as poifonous. 
 
 THE trees of this country take their names in ge- 
 neral, from the fancy or caprice of the inhabitants. 
 
 THE bois-de-canetk^ which is not like the real cin- 
 namon-tree, is one of the largeft in the ifland. It is 
 the beft I have feen for joiner's work, and refembles 
 walnut-tree, both in colour and veins. When it is 
 worked green, it fmells like human excrement, and 
 like the bloffoms of the real cinnamon. This is the 
 only refemblance I could perceive between them. 
 The feed of it is inveloped in a red ikin, which has 
 an acid, yet not a difagreeable tafte. 
 
 The (linking- wood, defervedly fo called from its 
 horrid finell, is very good for carpenter's ufe. 
 
 THE iron-wood, its trunk feems blended with the 
 roots, and moots up in a kind of ribs or fpars, like 
 fo many boards. It turns the edge of the axe that 
 fells it. 
 
 THE
 
 VOYAGE to tie ISLE of FRANCE, 6} 
 
 THE ebony- wood ; its leaves are large, the lower 
 fide white, the upper of a dingy green. The center 
 only of this tree is black, the lap and the bark being 
 white. In a trunk, from which may be cut a timber 
 fix inches fquare, there is frequently no more of re.il 
 ebony, than two inches fquare. This wood, if 
 worked while green, imells like human excrement, 
 and its flowers like the July- flower -, the very reverie 
 of the cinnamon, whole flowers are (linking, and the 
 wood and bark of a pleafant fmell. The ebony bears 
 a fruit like a medlar, full of vifcous juice, that is 
 iweet and pleafant taited. 
 
 THERE is another fort of ebony here, veined with 
 black. 
 
 THE citron-tree bears fruit in cool and damp places 
 only , the citrons are frnall, but full of juice. 
 
 THE orange-tree alfo thrives in a foil of this kind, 
 its fruit is bitter and (harp-tailed. Many of them 
 grow m the neighbourhood of the Great-Port -, yet I 
 doubt if thefe two fpecies are natural to the iiland. 
 The fweet orange is very rare, even in gardens. 
 
 THERE is found here, but rarely, a fpecies of the 
 fandal-wood. Somebody gave me a piece of it, which 
 was of a greyifli white. It had a faint fmell. 
 
 THE vacoa, is a kind of fmall palm-tree, whole 
 leaves grow fpirally round the trunk ; they, make 
 mats and bags of them. 
 
 THJS latame*, is a large kind of palm-tree, it bears 
 at the top, one leaf only, in the fhape of a fan, with 
 which they cover their houfes. 
 
 THE
 
 64 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 THE palm-tree rifes in the foreft above all the othef 
 trees. It bears at the head a clufter of palms, whence 
 there iffues a fhoot, which is all this tree affords fit to 
 be eaten -, and to get at this, the tree muft be cut 
 down. This fhoot, which they call the cabbage, is 
 formed of young leaves, rolled one over the other, 
 very tender, and of a very pleafant tafte. 
 
 The manglitr, or mangrove*, grows entirely in the 
 fea. Its roots and branches creep along, and inter- 
 weave themfelves in the fand, fo that it is impoffible 
 to pull them up. Its wood is red, and ftains of an 
 ugly colour. 
 
 I TOOK notice that the greater part of thefe trees 
 have but a very thin bark, fome of them even have 
 nothing but a fort of Ikin over them, differing widely 
 from the trees in the North, which nature has fur- 
 nimed with a variety of coats, to protect them from 
 the cold. Moil of them have their roots upon the 
 furface of the earth, and twirl round the rocks as 
 they fhoot up. They are but fhort , their heads lit- 
 tle, furnimed with leaves, and are very heavy ; which 
 with the liannes that grow round them, is their only 
 fupport againft the hurricanes, which would elfe pre- 
 fently tear up the firs and chefnuts. 
 
 As to the ufes they are fit for, none can compare 
 for durability and folidity to the oak, to the elm for 
 pliancy, to the fir for the lightnels and length of its 
 timber^ or to the chefnut for its uiefulnefs in general. 
 Their foliage has . the fame dilagreeable quality as is 
 
 * The mangrove is alfo called paletu<vicr ; its wood is very 
 proper for building, and of its bark, the people in fome part of 
 ihe Eaft-Indtes make clothes. The elephants are extremely fond 
 of the young leave* of tiiis tsce, and eat thtra with avidity. 7. 
 
 com-
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 65 
 
 common to every tree, whofe leaves laft the year round, 
 being hard, and of an ugly dark green. Their wood 
 is heavy, brittle, and eaiily rots. Thofe that in other 
 rdfpects are fit for cabinet-work, foon turn black, 
 when expofed to the air, which gives their furniaire 
 a very difagreeable look. 
 
 ALONG the margins of the rivulets which flow 
 through the woods, are the moft pleafmg retreats 
 imaginable. The waters run through the midil of 
 the rocks ; in one part gliding along in iilence, 
 in another, falling precipitately from a height, with 
 a confufed and murmuring noife, The borders of 
 thefe ravines are covered with trees, from which hang 
 large bunches of * Scolopcndria, and Liannes^ which 
 falling down, are iufpended by their own twigs. 
 The ground about them is rugged, with great pie- 
 ces ot black rock, overgrown with mois and maiden- 
 hair. Largs trunks over thrown by the hand of time, 
 lay, covered with fungus, waved with various co- 
 lours. 
 
 FERN grows here in infinite variety. Some, like 
 leaves feparated from the ftem, meander among the 
 Hones, and draw their fubftance from the rock it- 
 felf. Others fpring up like a tree of-mofs, and 
 rcfemble a plume of fil&en feathers. The common 
 fort is of twice the fize here, that it is in Europe. 
 In lieu of the groves, and reeds, which ib beauti- 
 fully variegate the borders of our rivers, along the 
 fides of thefe torrents, grow a kind of watcr-iillies, 
 
 * Splen*utort t or hurt ft on gut, a medicinal herb, Pliny fays, it 
 \v:is caMed in his time Sfo opendria, U*ga etrvin.9, orAjpLn .r. There 
 ia a li-h, and alfo an infedt, culled $col(,pendria, h th ot which were 
 railed by the Ancients miiliptda, and the Italians now caU chfm 
 
 n
 
 66 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 in great abundance, with very large leaves, in the' 
 form of a heart* They are called Songes. It will 
 float upon the water without being wet, and the 
 drops of rain amafs together upon it, like globules 
 of mining filver. Its root is an onion, of a malig- 
 nant quality. 'Tis diftinguifhed into the black, and 
 the white. 
 
 NEVER were thefe favage defarts enlivened by the 
 fongs of birds, nor have they ever feen reluctant 
 maid with downcaft eye, and lift'ning ear attend to 
 the fond lover's tale. The ear is fometimes grated by 
 the croaking of the perroquets, or pierced by the 
 mrill cry of fome malicious monkey. 
 
 YET, notwithftanding the barrennefs of the foil, 
 even thefe rocks might be habitable, if the Euro- 
 peans had not brought hither more and greater 
 evils, than Nature herlelf, has heaped upon it. 
 
 The PORT, OHcber 8, 1768. 
 
 LET-
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 67 
 
 LETTER ix. 
 
 'Of the ANIMALS natural to the ISLE OF 
 FRANCE. 
 
 THE Monkey a? Madagafcar, called Maki, does 
 not in the leaft referable thole of this Ifland ; 
 fior the Baboons of the Cape of Good- Hope. 
 
 THE Monkey of the Ifle of France, is of a mid- 
 dling lize. It is of a reddifh grey cad, and has a 
 long tail. This animal is fond of fociety. I have 
 feen them in troops of fixty at a time. They fre- 
 quently come in droves, and pillage the houfes. 
 Scouts are placed -on the tops of trees, and the points 
 of the rocks, who as foon as they fee any dogs or 
 hunters approach, cry out, to alarm the others, who 
 immediately decamp. They will climb up the deep- 
 ed mountain, and reft upon the flighted edge of a 
 precipice, where no 'other quadruped of its fize dare 
 venture. Thus Nature, which has covered even the 
 holes of the rock-; with herbage, has alfo created Be- 
 ings to enjoy the benefit of it. 
 
 THE Rat feems a native of this ifland. There are 
 prodigious numbers of them , and it is faid, that the 
 place was abandoned by the Dutch, becauie of this 
 cK-ature. In ibme houies they aic io numerous, that 
 
 F 2 30,000
 
 68 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 30000 * are killed in a year. They make large 
 hoards under ground, both of corn and of fruits, 
 and climb up to the tops of the trees to eat the young 
 birds. They will pierce the very thickeft rafters. 
 One may fee them at fun-fet, running about in all 
 parts, and in one night they will deftroy an entire 
 crop. I have feen a field of maize, in which they 
 have not left one fingle ear. They are exaftly like 
 the rats of Europe, and have, very pofiibly, come 
 from thence in mips. 
 
 MICE are very common here j the havock they 
 make is incredible. 
 
 IT is faid, that there were formerly a great many 
 Flamingos ; this is a large and beautiful fea-fowl, of 
 a rofe- colour - y they fay alfo, that three of them yet 
 remain, but I never faw them. 
 
 MANY Corligeaux fly about, and are reckoned the 
 beft game the ifland produces ; but are difficult to 
 moot. 
 
 THERE are Paillencus of two forts, the one of 
 white, like (ilver, the other having the beak, claws,, 
 and the tail red. Although this is a fea-bird, it 
 builds its neft in the woods. Its name is not at all 
 fuited to its extraordinary beauty. The Engliih more 
 
 * This number may appear improbable, and I fliould have 
 been inclined to think the Author misinformed, had I not been 
 told by a Gentleman, upon whofe veracity 1 can depend, that 
 upon his return from the Havanna in the year 1766, in t.-.e Vali- 
 ant man of war, the rats increafed to fuch a degree, as to 
 dellroy a hundred weight of bifcuit a day. The fhip was at 
 length fmoked between decksj in order to fuffbcate them. This 
 had the defired effect, and fix hampers were filled daily for fome 
 time with the rats killed by this means. '7". 
 
 properly
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 69 
 
 properly call it the 'Tropic Bird. It keeps near thff 
 fea, and is not intimidated at the fight of man. 
 
 TURTLES uied frequently to be found on the more, 
 but now rarely. Their flefh is like beef ; the fat 
 green, and well tailed. 
 
 I HAVE feen many forts of Parrots, but none very 
 hancjfome. There is a fpecies of green Perrcquets, 
 with a grey head. They are as large as fparrows. 
 It is impoflible to tame them. Theie alfo are ene- 
 mies to the harveft, but they are very good to eat. 
 
 IN the woods are found black-birds, which when 
 called to by a fportfman, will come to the end of his, 
 gun. This is a kind of game miich in requelt. 
 
 THERE is a pigeon called the Dutch-Pigeon, of a 
 moft magnificent plumage , and another fort, which 
 although, of a very pleatant tafbe, are fo dangerous, 
 that thofe who eat them are thrown into convulfions. 
 
 Two forts of Bats -are found here ; one like ours, 
 the other as big as a fmall cat, very fat ; and is eaten 
 -by the inhabitants as a rarity. 
 
 THERE is a fpecious of fparrow-hawk, called th<* 
 Chicken-eater ; it is alfo faid to eat grajsboppers. 
 
 THE fea- fide is full of holes, in which lodge a 
 great number of Toulouroux, they are a kind of am- 
 phibious crab, and make burroughs under ground 
 Jike moles. They run very faft ; and if you attempt 
 to catch them, they map, their claws, and prefent 
 their points, by way of menace. 
 
 F 3 ANOTHER
 
 70 VOYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRAN. 
 
 ^ ANOTHER amphibious and very extraordinary crea- 
 ture, is the Bernard V Her mite, a kind of loblter, 
 whole hinder part is not provided with a Ihell ; but 
 it inftinctivly lodges itfclf in empty fhcils, which it 
 finds upon the fhore. One may fee them run alon* 
 in great numbers, each with its houfe after it, which 
 it abandons for a larger when its growth makes it 
 neceflliry'. 
 
 THE moft destructive infects on. this ifland, are the 
 gr af shoppers. I have feen them light upon a field, 
 like a fall of fnow, and lay upon the ground feveraj 
 inches deep. They will eat up the verdure in the 
 Gourfe of one night. This is the moft dreaded; ene- 
 my of agriculture. 
 
 THERE are many forts of mails, and a large but- 
 terfly, which has upon its body the figure of a Death's 
 Head. It is called Hai J, and flies about chiefly in 
 rooms. It is laid that the down of its wings will 
 blind thofe whofe eyes it touches. 
 
 The hcrufes are full of ants, which deftroy provi- 
 fions of every kind. The pantries are not fafe from 
 their ravages, except they ftand in water. Numbers 
 of them are killed by an infect called a Formicates. 
 
 .* * 
 
 THE Centpieds^ or Centipedes, are frequently found 
 in damp places. This infect feems ckftined to drive 
 mankind from the unwholefome air they breed in. Its 
 iting is very painful. My dog was bit by one of 
 them, which was more than fix inches longj the 
 
 J Odious or Hateful ; To called, the Author fays, from the fear 
 it excites. T. 
 
 This, I fuppoff to be the infeft Scola; tndria, btforementi- 
 encd. 7*. 
 
 wound
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE J>F FRANCE. 71 
 
 wound turned to a kind of ulcer, and was three 
 weeks in healing. I was highly plealed with feeing 
 one of them carried off by a valt unmber of ants , 
 they had feized it by all its legs, and bore it along 
 as workmen do a large piece of timber, 
 
 THE yellow wafp with black rings upon the body, 
 is not lels formidable for its fting, than the fcorpion, 
 which is very common here. It builds in trees, and 
 even in houfes, its hive is of a fubftance like paper. 
 There was one of them in my chamber , but I iooa 
 grew weary of fo dangerous a gueft. 
 
 The wafp called Mafonnel, or the Mafon, builds 
 itfelf a neit of earth, which one would think, was 
 the work of a fwallow, were any in the ifland. It 
 lodges in rooms that are not frequented, and chiefly 
 in the locks, which are filled with its labours. 
 
 ONE frequently finds in the gardens, leaves of the 
 fize of a fixpence j this is the work of the wafps, 
 who lhape with their teeth thefe circular pieces, with 
 a nicety and readinefs truly admirable. They carry 
 them into their nelts, and having rolled them into 
 the lhape of a horn, depofit their eggs in. them. 
 
 THERE is a. fpecies of infccl like an ant, which is 
 not Jefs induftrious with regard to their habitations. 
 They make gr^at havock among the trees and timber, 
 the wood of which they reduce to a powder ; with 
 this dull they conftrudl little caverns of about an inch 
 broad, under which they live , thefe caverns or pipes, 
 are black, and will; fbmetimes run over the timber of 
 a whole houfe. They wil) penetrate through trunks, 
 or furniture in one night. I found no remedy fo ef- 
 as to rub the places they frequented very of- 
 F 4 ten
 
 fZ VOTfAGE ta tie ISLE or FRANCE. 
 
 ton with garlick. They call thefe infects Car ;' as. 
 .Many houies are quite ruined by them. 
 
 are three fpecies of Caxcre'as, the dirtieft ot 
 all the Scaraboea. One of them is fiat and grey -, the 
 mdft common one is of the fize of a cockchafer, cf a 
 reddiih brown. It attacks furniture, especially books 
 and papers, and harbours conftantly in the offices 
 and kitchens. The houfes are very much peftered, 
 with them ; efpecially in wet weather. 
 
 IT has for an antagonift, a fpecies of Scflmbxa, or 
 green fly, very gawdy and very nimble. When die 
 Can relaf is met with, and touched by this fly, it be* 
 conies mou'onkfc. The fly then feeks for fame crack 
 or chink, to which it draws the cancrelas and thrurts 
 it in, depofits an egg in its body, and then leaves it. 
 This touch, which feme look upon as a charm, is 
 the -ftroke of the fting, the effect of which is inftan- 
 taneous, this infect being elfe hard to kill. 
 
 IN the trunks of trees there is found a large worm 
 v/ith paws, that picks the trees, they call it Montac. 
 The blacks, and even the white people eat them 
 greedily. Pliny obferves, that they were ferved up 
 at the moft capital tables in Rome, and were fattened 
 with meal for that purpofe. That found in the oak- 
 tree was in the higheft eftimation ; and was called coj- 
 fus. Thus have abundance and fcarciry combined in 
 tjie fame tafte ; and like all other extremes, ap- 
 proached very near to each other. 
 
 THERE are lady-birds on the fides of the rivulets, 
 of a fine violet colour, with a head like a ruby. 
 This infect is carnivorous. I have feen it carrying 
 a beautiful butterfly through the air. 
 
 HE
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 73 
 
 THE apartments are, at certain feafons, filled 
 -with moths, or fmall butterflies, that come and 
 iinge themfelves in the candle. They are fo nu- 
 merous, that the candles are frequently obliged to 
 be put into cylinders of glafs. They draw in^o the 
 houfes a very handfome imall lizard, about a fin- 
 ger's length. Its eyes are lively ; it climbs ajong 
 the walls, and even along the glafs, lives upon flies 
 and other infedts, and watches with great patience 
 for an opportunity of catching them. It lays eggs 
 that are fmall and round like peas, having a white 
 and yellow ihell, as the eggs of pullets. I have 
 feen fome of thefe lizards fo tame, that they would 
 come and take fugar out of a perfon's hand. Far 
 from being mifchievous, they are on the contrary, 
 very ulefuL Some very beautiful ones are to be 
 feen in the woods, of an azure, and changeable 
 green, marked with crimfon on the back, like Ara- 
 bic characters. 
 
 AN enemy that is ftill more terrible to the in- 
 fects, is the Spider. Some of them have bellies as 
 big as a nut, with large paws, covered with hair. 
 Their webs are fo ftrong, that even fmall birds are 
 catched in them. They are of ufe, in deftroying 
 the wafps, fcorpions, and centipedes. There is a 
 little white louie, that harbours in fruit-trees, and 
 deftroys them ; and a bug, whofe bite is more dan- 
 gerous than that of the fcorpion, and is fucceeded by a 
 tumour as big as a pigeon's egg, which continues 
 for four or live days. 
 
 You will obferve, that the temperature of this 
 climate, fo tempting to the inhabitants of Europe, 
 is fo favourable to the propagation of infects, that 
 in a fhort time, the fruits would be eaten up by 
 them, and the ifland itfelf become uninhabitable ; 
 
 but
 
 7 4 VOYAGE to the ISLE or FRANCE. 
 
 but the fruits of thefe meridional countries, arc 
 clothed with a thick rind, and afterwards with a 
 {kin, a very hard Ihell, or an aromatic bark, like 
 the orange or citron, infomuch that the flies can, 
 introduce their worms into very few of them only. 
 Many of thefe noxious animals are at perpetual 
 war with each other, as the fcorpion and the centi- 
 pied, TThe Formi:aleos lays fnares for the Ant , the 
 green, fly pierces the Cancrela* j the Lizard hunts 
 the Butterfly ; the Spiders fpread nets for every infecl 
 that flies -, and the hurricane which rages once a 
 year, annihilates at once a great part, both of thp 
 prey, and of the devourers. 
 
 PoRT-Louis, DSC. 7, 1768, 
 
 L E T-
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 75 
 
 LETTER X. 
 
 am now to write to you concerning the fea, and 
 its productions, you will then know at leaft as 
 much as the Hril Portuo-uezc that landed in this 
 
 D 
 
 ifland. If I can add to this a metereological journal, 
 you will by degrees be acquainted with the whole na- 
 iiiral hiftory of this country-, from hence we fhall 
 go on and treat of the inhabitants, and of the courfe 
 they have taken for the improvement of their country, 
 where, as in every other part of the world, good and 
 evil are mingled together. Plutarch would have us 
 deduce harmony from thefe contrarieties -, but though 
 good inftruments, are very common, good Mufici- 
 fin.% are found but rarely. 
 
 WHALES are often feen to windward of this ifland, 
 efpecially about September, the time of their coup- 
 ling. I have feen many this feafon, that kept them- 
 klves upright in the water, and came very near the 
 coaft. They are fmaller than the northern ones. 
 There is no whale fifhery, but the Negroes are not 
 unacquainted with the method of harpooning them. * 
 Sea Cows are fometimes catched here ; I have eaten of 
 them, their flefh is like beef j I never faw any of this fiih. 
 
 THE VIEILLE, is a blackifh fim, and in form and 
 tafte a good deal like the cod fifh. One extraordinary 
 
 * Whales are in fuch plerty upon the equally fouthern coaft of 
 li azil, that they conllitute the greateft part of the food of the 
 Negroes, belonging to the Planters near the lea ; as I have been 
 informed by a perfon who lived feycral years in that country. 7. 
 
 Herodotus in Lib. 4 fays that in tiie Boryllhenes, in Jus time 
 there were Whale*. fT. 
 
 circumftanae,
 
 76 VOYAGE to the ISLE of FRANCE. 
 
 circurnftance, is, that the fifh on the windward-fide 
 of the ifland is never unwholforne. Thofe then that 
 attribute this poifonous quality to the Madrepores 
 are miftaken ; the ifland being on all fides furrounded 
 by banks of coral. I mould rather think it occafi- 
 oned by fome venomous tree falling into the water, 
 which conjecture is the more probable ; becaufe at one 
 feafon,only, fome particular ipecics of gluttonous fim 
 are fubjecttothis inconveniency. Moreover that fpecies 
 of Pigeon whofe fkm occafions convulfions in the 
 eaters of it, proves that the poifon is in the ifland 
 itfelf. 
 
 Among the fim to be fufpecled are a number of 
 white ones, with a large belly, and a great head % 
 fuch as the Captain and the Carangue. Thefe two 
 forts are of an indifferent tafte. Thofe that have 
 their mouths paved, that is to fay, a rugged bone in 
 their palates are thought to be never dangerous. 
 
 In general, the fmaller the fifli, the greater the 
 danger. 
 
 The Water-pullet, a fort of Turbot, is the beft 
 of all the fim catched here, the fat is green. 
 
 PERROQVETS, that are not only green, but have 
 yellow heads, white and crooked beaks, and go in a 
 body like the birds of that name. 
 
 The HoG-FisH, is fmall and oddly fhaped ; its 
 head is like a pike, upon its back are leven points as 
 long as its body, the prick -of them is very veno- 
 mous , they are united by a membrane like the wing 
 of a bat , it is ftreakcd with brown ftripes, which 
 begin at the muzzle, exactly as thofe of the Zebra at 
 the Cape. The fifli is fquare like a trunk, r.r.d 
 
 which
 
 VOYAGE to tbe ISLE OF FRANCE. 77 
 
 which name it bears, is armed with two horns like a 
 bull ; there are many fpecies of them : they never 
 grow large. 
 
 The EEL is tough, they arc of the conger fort, 
 fome of them are feven or eight feet long, and as 
 thick as a mans leg. They harbour in the creeks of 
 the rivers, and fometimes devour thofe who are im- 
 prudent enough to bathe there. 
 
 There are LOBSTERS or CRAY-FISH of a pro- 
 digious fize, their paws are not large, they are blue, 
 marbled with black. I have feen here a fpecies of 
 lobfter that is fmaller and of* a beautiful form -, it 
 was of a fky-blue-, it had two little claws, divided 
 into two articulations, like a knife with the blade 
 /hutting into the handle. 
 
 There is a great variety of CRABS. The follow- 
 ing feemed to be moft worthy of notice. 
 
 A fort that is rugged with tubercules and points 
 like a madrepore ; another that has upon its back 
 the imprefTion of five fcals another with fomething 
 in the Ihape of a horfe-fhoe at the end of its claws ; 
 a fort covered with hair, that has no claws, and that 
 adheres to the fides of mips; a crab marbled with grey, 
 the fhell of which though fmooth and polilhed is very 
 uneven. Many irregular and ftrange figures are ob- 
 fervable among thefe, which are notwithftanding 
 perfectly alike upon each crab ; that with its eyes at 
 the end of two long tubes like telefcopes, which 
 when it is not ufmg them, it depoflts in grooves along 
 the fide of its fliell. 
 
 A Crab with red claws, one much larger than the 
 other -, a fmall crab with a fhell thrice as big as itfelf, 
 in which it is covered over as by a buckler, ferthat 
 its claws cannot be feen when it walks, 
 
 In
 
 ?8 VOYAGE to the ISLE OP FRANCE: 
 
 In many places along more and fome feet undjf 
 vrater are found a multitude of large Bcudins de Mt-- t 
 red and black. In taking them out of the water they 
 emit a white and thick (lime, that immediately 
 changes into a number of fmall and glutinous threads. 
 I believe this animal to be ari enemy of the crab fpe- 
 cies, amongft which it is to be always met with. Its 
 vicious glear is very fit to entangle their claws, which 
 otherwiie could have no hold upon its elaflic hide, 
 and cylindrical form. The feamen give it a very 
 grofs appellation which I will render in latin mentu/a 
 monathi. The Chineie hold it in high efteem, looking 
 Upon it as a powerful aphrodifiac. 
 
 I think I may rank among the fhell-fim a fhapelefs 
 Mafs, foft and membranous, in the middle of which 
 is one fingle flat bone that is a little arched. In thele 
 fpecies the ufual order feems to be reverfed, the ani- 
 mal is on the outfide of the fhell, 
 
 It is thought a great fingularity, that all univalves 
 of which there are many, are turned from left to 
 right, in looking at the melt when lying on its 
 mouth, and the point towards ones-felf : there are very 
 few exceptions to this rule. What law can have 
 determined them to begin their volute on- the fame 
 fide ? Is k the fame that has caufed the fun to turn 
 from Weft to Fait ? In this cafe the fun may in fome 
 degree be the caufe, as it is of their colours, which 
 are the more beautiful' the nearer to the line. 
 There is much ingenuity and variety in the hinges 
 of mell-nlh, and our artifts might improve by at- 
 tending to the conitruction of them. 
 
 The OYSTER called the Tulier is common .. here, 
 and is of the fame fort as thofe that ar uled as holy 
 
 water
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 79 
 
 water pots in the church of St. Sulpice, at Paris ; 
 and is perhaps the largeft ihell which the fea produ- 
 ces : fome of them are found at the Maldivia Iflands, 
 which are not to be drawn by two oxen without dif- 
 ficulty. It is rather extraordinary that this oyfter is 
 found in Normandy as a foffil, upon which coaft I 
 have feen it. 
 
 Apparently, mell-rlm. do not live peacebly toge- 
 ther, any more than other animals do. Many of 
 them are found broken to pieces on the more , thofe 
 that are taken whole are always pierced. I too have 
 fcen a fnail armed with a pointed tooth, with which 
 it pierced the (hells of mufcles : twas brought from 
 the Strcights of Magellan. 
 
 The ISLE of FRANCE is furrounded with Madre- 
 pores, a kind of vegetation of ttone formed like a 
 plant or flirub. They are fo very numerous that the 
 rocks feem formed of them only. 
 
 Among thofe that adorn and diverfify the bed of 
 the fea and adhere to it by their roots, are, the colly- 
 flower -, the cabbage, whole appearance is very like 
 that plant -, it is of the large fort, as well as another 
 madrepore, the ftages of which grow fpirally -, it is 
 very brittle -, another that by the high fhooting of its 
 head and the robuftnefs of its branches, refembles a 
 tree -, a very beautiful fpecies, which I called the 
 Iheaf -, it feems formed of feveral bunches of ears of 
 corn -, the pencil or pink, at the center of each o- 
 there is a little piece that is green. 
 
 A BEAUTIFUL MADREPORE, growing in the form 
 of an ifland with its mores and Mountains , another, 
 like an icicle ; another, the leaves of which are di- 
 gitated like a hand ; the ftag-wood, with horns very 
 
 detached
 
 So VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 detached and brittle : the beehive, a large fl\apdefs 
 mafs, the whole furface of which is full of regular 
 holes; the pale blue coral, which is rare, within, it is 
 of a deeper blue-, the jointed coral, black and w hi te^ 
 containing a fmall piece of red coral which has not 
 yet beenfeen here -, vegetations of coral, blue, white, 
 yellow and red, fo brittle, and fo much pierced that 
 one cannot fend any of it to Europe. 
 
 AMONG the Litof bites , a plant like a long ftraw 
 without leaves, buds or buttons ; a vegetation like a 
 foreft of trees , their roots are very much interwoven, 
 and have each a fmall nofegay of flowers-, the fub- 
 ftance of this Litopbitt is of the nature of wood, and 
 burns like it in the fire; it is notwithftanding clafled 
 among the Madrepores. 
 
 I HAVE feen three forts of fea ftar-wort, but no- 
 thing remarkable in either. Formerly ambergreafe 
 was found upon the coaft, (there is even a little 
 ifland to windward called by that name). It is fome- 
 times brought from Madagafcar. 
 
 IT is not now doubted but that the Madrepores are 
 the work of an infinity of fmall animals, akho' they 
 have a perfect refemblance of plants v I was pleafed 
 to be experimentally convinced of this, it being de- 
 lightful to me to look upon the Univerfe as peopled* 
 Befides I conceive fo regular a work can only be car- 
 ried on by fome agent endewed with intelligence and 
 a love of order. Thefe vegetations refemble ours fo 
 much, the component matter apart, that I am even 
 nuch induced to believe our vegetables allb to be * 
 productions of the labour of a multitude of living 
 animals combined together for that purpoie. I had 
 much rather look up6n a tree as a republick, than as 
 a machine without life, and actuated by I know not 
 
 See letter 29 where thU fubjeft is difcufled, 
 
 what
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 8c 
 
 what laws of Hydraulics. I could fupport this o- 
 pinion by many curious obfervations, for which I 
 may perhaps fometimc hence have leifure. Thefe 
 reiearches may be ufeful, but when not employed to 
 a good purpoie, do but divert our attention from thb 
 more laudable purfuits on which it mould be employed, 
 and habituate it to fix upon any thing trifling that 
 prefents itfelf. Our hiftories are frequently made up 
 of calumnies, our moral treatifes, of Satires, and our 
 locieties and academies of (lander and epigrams. 
 And after all this, men lament that friendmip and 
 confidence no longer exift ; not confidering the im- 
 poffi bility that they mould do ib , among perfons, each 
 of whom carries a fhield upon his heartland a poignard 
 under his cloak. 
 
 Let us talk little, or let us form fyftems, Tradi- 
 d'tmundum difputationibus. Let us difpute then, but 
 without being angry. 
 
 PORT Louis, \2tb of January 1769. 
 
 METEREOLOGICAL JOURNAL. 
 
 QUALITIES OF THE AIR. 
 
 JULY, 1768.. 
 
 DURING this month the winds blew from the 
 fouth-weft as it ufually does all the year. There is a 
 ftrong breeze all day, and at night it is calm. Altho' 
 tis now the dry feafon, yet it frequently rains, with 
 violent fqualls, that laft but a mort time. The air 
 is very fharp in fo much that cloth clothes are in- 
 difpenfably neceflary. 
 
 G AUGUST,
 
 fc VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 A U G U S T. 
 
 IT rained almoft every day. The tops of the 
 mountains are covered with vapours like fmoke. 
 which defcend upon the plains with guils of wind. 
 Thefe rains frequently form niinbows upon the fides 
 of the mountains, which however are not the lets 
 black on that account. 
 
 SEPTEMBER. 
 
 THE wind and weather as before. Tis the feafon 
 for harveft. If heat and moiflure are the fole caufes 
 of vegetation, why does nothing Ihoot at this time ? 
 It is no lefs hot than in May in France. Can there be 
 any fpirit of life attending the return of the fun ? 
 The Romans paid honours to the weftern wind, and 
 fixed the period of its arrival at the 8th of February. 
 They called it Favonius^ or the Fofterer. 'Tis the 
 fame a? the Zephyr of the Greeks. Pliny fays it 
 ferves as a hufband to all things that draw their ex- 
 iftence from the earth. 
 
 OCTOBER. 
 
 TtJE fame temperature ; the air is a little hotter, 
 it is always coldefl in the interior part of the ifland.' 
 At the end of this month they fow their wheat, and 
 in four months after is their harveft > they then fow 
 maize, which is ripe in September. Thus have 
 they two crops on the fame land ; but thefe are fcarce- 
 ly a compenfation for the other plagues with which 
 this ifland is peftered. 
 
 NOVEMBER. 
 
 THE heats begin tq be felt, the winds change, 
 and fometimes get round to the N. W, Storms of 
 rain fall. 
 
 No
 
 VOYAGE to the JSIE OF FRANCE. 83 
 
 No (hip from France. No letter. It is grievous 
 at this diftance to be in conftant expectation of our 
 chief happinefs from Europe. 
 
 .DECEMBER, 
 
 THE heats are excefllve. The fun is in the zenith, 
 but the air is tempered by plentiful rains. I think I 
 iiave felt it hotter in the fummer at Peterfbourg, At 
 the beginning of the month I heard thunder for the 
 .firft time fii^ce my arrival. 
 
 
 
 THE 23d ia tfye morning the wind blew from the 
 S. W. and feemed ]to prefage a ftorm. The clouds 
 gathered at the top of the mountains. They were 
 <of an olive or copper colour, .and one long range of 
 them was higher than the reft and motionlefs, The 
 fmaller ones that were below blew about with a fur- 
 prifmg rapidity. The fea broke upon the rocks with 
 a great noiie. Many of the fea birds flew for fhelter 
 to the land. The domeftic animals were very uneafy. 
 The air was gloomy and hot although the wind was 
 {till high. 
 
 ALL thefe figns prefaging a hurricane, every body 
 haftened to ftrengthen their houfes with fupporters 
 and props, and to block up their doors and windows, 
 
 ABOUT 10 o'clock in the evening the hurricane 
 announce^ itfelf by horrible gufts of wind, which were 
 followed by not lefs horrible intervals of calm, in 
 which the wind feemed to. collect new powers. It kept 
 augmenting the whole night; my apartment being 
 very much ihaken, I went into another. The good 
 woman I lodged with, wept, and was in defpair at 
 the thoughts of her houfe being deftroyed. Nobody 
 went to bed. Towards morning the wind redoubled 
 
 G 2 its
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 its efforts. I perceived that one fide of our 
 fence was falling, and that part of the root of the 
 houfe was raifed at one corner , 1 got fome plank s 
 and cords, by means of which I prevented the damage 
 that would elfe have happened. In crofting the yard 
 to give directions about this work, I frequently 
 thought I fliould have been blown down. Some walls 
 at a diftance were falling, and fome roofs were torn 
 to pieces, the timbers of which were blown away as 
 if they had been cards. 
 
 ABOUT 8 in the morning fome rain fell, and the 
 wind not at all abated, blew it horizontally along 
 with fuch violence, that it entered like fo many Jets- 
 de'au at every the fmalleit opening. It fpoiled feveraj 
 of my papers. 
 
 AT 1 1 o'clock the rain fell in torrents. The wind 
 fubfided a little, the ravines in the mountains formed 
 prodigious caicades on every fide. Large pieces of 
 the rocks broke off with a noife like that of Cannon, 
 and as they rolled down, cleared to themfelves a path 
 among the woods. The rivulets overflowed into the 
 plain which by this time was like another fea, neither 
 banks nor bridges being any more to be feen. 
 
 AT one o'clock the wind whirled about to the 
 N. W. and drove the furf of the fea in large clouds 
 along the land. The mips in the harbour were run 
 afhore, and kept firing guns as fignals of diftrefs, 
 but in vain, for no fuccour could be fent to them.. 
 By thefe repeated gufts, the buildings were acted 
 upon the contrary way, and with nearly equal vio- 
 lence. About noon the wind mifted to the E. and 
 then to the W. Thus it went quite the circle of the 
 horizon in the four-and-twenty hours, as ufual,- 
 'after which a perfect calm fucceeded. 
 
 Many
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE of FRANCE. 85 
 
 Many trees were blown down, and bridges carried 
 away. Not one fingle leaf remained in our gardens. 
 Even the herb dogs-tooth fo remarkably hardy, feem- 
 ed in fome places to be cut to the very edge of the 
 "round. 
 
 o 
 
 DURING the temped a good man of this place 
 whole name is Le Ruux^ a joiner, fent his blacks and 
 workmen to help thofe that might want their afiill- 
 unce, and this without any gratuity. Good actions 
 mould never be pafled over without notice, efpecially 
 in this place. 
 
 THERE was an eclipfe at 4 min. paft 5 on the 23d, 
 but the bad weather prevented its being feen. 
 
 The hurricane comes regularly every year in De- 
 cember, and fometimes in March. As the winds 
 make the tour of the horizon, there is not a cavern 
 in the ifland unfilled with the rain, which deftroys a 
 great number of rats, grafshoppers and ants, they 
 are not feeen again for fome time. 
 
 IT holds the place of a winter, but the ravages 
 made by it are more to be dreaded. That of 1760 
 will be a long time thought of. A fhutter was feen 
 lifted into the air and then darted like an arrow, upon 
 a roof at fome diftance. The lower mafts of a 64 
 gun mip were twitted round and broken off. No 
 tree in Europe could withft and the force of thefe whirl- 
 winds. How the trees of the country are protected 
 we have feen above. 
 
 JANUARY, 1769. 
 
 RAINY weather, hot and gloomy; great ftorms, 
 but little thunder. The gales of wind blowing very 
 hard in this feafon all navigation is at -a ftand from 
 December til) April. 
 
 THE
 
 86 VOYAG E to tie ISER OF FRANCE, 
 
 THE Meadows recover their verdure, the earth 
 prefents a pleafanter profpec\ but the fky a difmai 
 one. 
 
 F E BR U AKY, 
 
 STORMY weather, and violent gufts of wind, 
 The Happy, a pafiage boat fent to Madagafcar, and 
 the Favorite, a Ihip, are both loft. 
 
 THE 25th of this month the clouds gathered toge- 
 ther by a N. W. wind, formed themfelves. into along, 
 range from the Flag Mountaia to the I fie of To fine. - 
 Hers. It is motionlefs : claps of thunder innumerable. 
 proceeded from it. The ftorm lafted from 6 in, the 
 morning till noon, during which time a number of 
 thunderbolts fell ; one of them, killed a Grenadier,. 
 and another, a Negro woman >, an ox upon; the I (land 
 of Tonneliers had the fame fate: a gun in an officer's, 
 houfe was melted. The people here, fay, that the 
 thunder never falls within the town ? for, my part 1 
 never heard any fo loud, and could not help thinking. 
 it very like a bombardment. I am of opinion that if 
 they had fired one cannon, the explofion would have 
 difpelled the motionlefs clouds from whence the thun- 
 der iflued. 
 
 MARC H. 
 
 THE rains are not fo frequent^ and the winds al- 
 ways from the S. W. The heat is now tolerable. 
 
 A P R I L. 
 
 THE feafon is fine, and the herbage begins to be 
 dry, and fhould it now be fet on fire, the landfcape 
 would be totally black for feven months to come. 
 
 C 3 MAY.
 
 VOYAGE to tbe ISLE OF FRANCE. 87 
 
 M A Y. 
 
 TOWARDS the end of this month the winds ac- 
 cording to cuftom turned to N. W. We have now 
 the dry feafon. I was in the plains, called Williams 
 plains, and found the air of a temperature perfecUy 
 pleafant and refrefhing. 
 
 JUNE. 
 
 7'HE -winds blow almoft conftantly from the S, E. 
 and the Ihowers of fmall rain again begin to fall. 
 
 No malady feems peculiar to this country, but the 
 people have all thofe we have in Europe, as the apo- 
 plexy, fmall-pox, pleurifi.es and obftruclions in the 
 liver, which laft I mould imagine proceeded rather 
 from vexation, than from the bad quality of the water 
 as is the general opinion. I have feen a ftone taken 
 from a Negroe of the place which was bigger than an 
 egg. Violent gouts and paralytic diiorders are 
 common. 
 
 THE Blacks and children are very fubje&to worms ; 
 the former have in the venereal difeafe dreadful chops 
 or clefts in the foles of their feet. The air is as good 
 as in Europe, but has no medicinal virtues, and I 
 would by ail means difluade gouty perfons from com- 
 ing here, having feen fome people keep their beds for 
 fix months together. 
 
 THE change of the feafons, makes a very fenfible 
 alteration in the conftitution of the inhabitants. They 
 are liable to bilious fevers, and the heat occafions 
 ruptures, but temperance and bathing will keep a 
 man in health. I cannot however but obferve that in 
 cold countries, the people are more healthy and their 
 G 4 fpirits
 
 88 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 fpirits more vigorous, and it is worthy of remark, 
 that hiftory mentions no celebrated man that was- 
 born between the tropics, except Mahomet. 
 
 LETTER XI. 
 
 MANNERS OF THE WHITE INHABITANTS. 
 
 Ifle of France was uninhabited till difco- 
 JL vered by Mafcarenhas. The firft French peo- 
 ple that eftablifhed themfelves here were fome Huf- 
 bandmen from Bourbon. They brought with them 
 fimplicity of manners, goodfaith and confidence, a 
 love of hofpitality and even an indifference with re- 
 fpect to riches. Monfieur de Bourdonnais who was 
 in fome meafure the founder of the colony, brought 
 workmen into it that were good fort of men, and 
 fome others whom their parents fent from home for 
 inifconducl:, and whom by his difcipline he made 
 good and ufeful members to fociety. 
 
 WHEN he had rendered the ifland refpeclable by 
 the labour he exerted for its encouragement, and it 
 was thought a proper place to touch at in the way to 
 India, people of all ranks poured in upon it. Among 
 whom were the perfons fent out by the India Compa- 
 ny. The principal employments on the illand- being 
 veiled in their hands, they lived in a ftate equal to that 
 of the nobles in Venice, and to their ariftocratical, 
 "manners joined fotnething alfo of a fpirit of financing^ 
 
 which
 
 VOYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRANCE. 89 
 
 which is always prejudicial to the fpirit of agricul- 
 ture. Every appointment was at their difpofal, and 
 .their power was alike abfolute in judicial matters, as 
 in matters of trade. Some of them cleared the lands, 
 and erected buildings, which they fold again at an 
 exorbitant rateto thofe who came thither to fettle. An 
 outcry was raifed againft the oppreiTors, but fo great 
 -'was their power, that no redrels could be obtained. 
 
 SEVERAL feafaring people eftablifhed here, who for 
 41 long time could not underftand that the dangers and 
 fatigue of the trade to India was to them, in propor- 
 tion as the honours and profits of it were to thofe for 
 whom they 'laboured. This fettlement fo near to the 
 Indies raifed great expectations on their firft coming. 
 But before their eftablimment was effected, they be- 
 came difcontented, and much more fo afterwards. 
 
 THE company fent out a military force, among 
 whom were fome officers of high birth. Theie had. 
 no idea of degrading themfelves fo far as to rank or 
 connect with men who had formerly been Merchants 
 Clerks ; except to receive their pay of them : they 
 'liked the feamen as little.asthe merchants, theirman- 
 ners were too blunt and unpoli/hed. Thus their 
 pride (landing in the way of their fortune, they con- 
 tinued as poor as when they left France. 
 
 SOME of tiie King's troops touched here, and ftaid 
 fome time. A few of the officers tempted by the fe- 
 rcnity of the climate and a love of eafe, fixed their 
 abode here. Every thing and every body being fub- 
 ject to the company only, the fubultern did not meet 
 .here with the diftinction andrefpect paid to him in gar- 
 jifons, and which were fo flattering to his vanity, 
 toeing without employment he was looked upon as an 
 
 alien
 
 c/o VOYAGE to the ISLE Or 
 
 alien among the" mercantile people, each of whom had 
 his particular intereft to attend to 
 
 OTHER fettlers here, were the Miffionaries of St. 
 Lazarus, who availing themfelves of the fimplicity of 
 the firft inhabitants, had exercifed a dominion over 
 them uncontrouled : but when the body of the peo- 
 ple increafmg very faft, divided and difperfed itfelf, 
 they were content to attend to their paftoral functions, 
 and to fome of the better fort of families who counte- 
 nanced their vifits. 
 
 NEXT landed fome merchants who brought money 
 with them, though to no great amount. In an ifland 
 without trade they added to the abufes of brokerage 
 already practifed, and introduced befides monopplies 
 of every kind. 
 
 THEY quickly became odious to the other inhabi- 
 tants, who wanting the means of impofition, were 
 themfelves impofed upon, and gave their oppreflbrs 
 the epithet of Banians, a name there held in as much 
 abhorrence as that of Jew in France. They alfo 
 affected to defpife the diftinctions of rank, looking 
 upon every man after his having crofled the line, to 
 be the equal of his neighbour. 
 
 AT length the late war in India, inundated upon the 
 Jile of France, die fcum of Europe and of Afia, Bank- 
 rupts, ruined Libertines, Thieves, and wretches 
 of every kind, who driven from the former by their 
 crimes, and from the latter by the bad fuccefs of our 
 arms, attempted to reeftablim their fortunes upon the 
 ruins of the public. On the arrival of this fet of men, 
 the complaints both general and particular of the inha- 
 bitants were augmented ; every character was tradu- 
 ced with an Aliat;c ingenuity > hitherto unknown to 
 
 the
 
 VOYAGE to tbe ISLE OF FRANCE. 91 
 
 the caluminators of our climate , no woman was now 
 looked upon as chafte, nor any man as honeft : all 
 confidence and efteem, were at an end. Thus by vi- 
 lifying all mankind, they thought to reduce all man- 
 kind to their own level. 
 
 ALL their hopes being founded upon a change of 
 the adminiftration, they at laft effected their defign. 
 The company in 1765 yieMing up to the King, a co- 
 iony which had coft them fo much trouble and ex- 
 pence , Order and peace were now expected to 
 refume their feat, but it was found that this change 
 had added new leaven to the fermentation : for a num- 
 ber of perfons were fent by authority from Paris to 
 make their fortunes in an ifland, uncultivated and 
 without any fettled trade, and where paper is the only 
 currency. Thefe then were malecontents of another 
 fort. 
 
 A party of the inhabitants who were grateful e- 
 nough to continue their attachment to the company, 
 faw with grief, the introduction of the royal jurifdic- 
 tion. The other party that had reckoned upon the 
 new government, feeing that none but oeconomical 
 plans were adopted, felt their difappointment the 
 more feverely, on account of the expectations they 
 had formed. 
 
 To thefe new differences were added the difientions 
 of bodies of men, who were at continual variance 
 even in France, the departments of the marine, 
 the pen, and the fword; In ihort, the mind of 
 every individual, being neither occupied by bujinefs, 
 nor amuied by public entertainments, retired within 
 itfelf, to brood over its own inquietudes. 
 
 Difcord reigns all over the ifland, and has entirely 
 extirpated that love of fociety which might be ex- 
 pected
 
 92 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCS. 
 
 peeled to prevail among Frenchmen banimed to a 
 defart, furrounded by the feas, and at the end of the 
 world. Each man is difcontented j each man wants 
 to get a fortune and to leave the place. To hear, 
 them talk one would think the ifland would be again 
 uninhabited, every man declaring he will go away 
 next year, and fome of them have held this intention 
 for thirty years pail, yet remain to make the fame 
 declaration the year enfuing. 
 
 An officer from Europe foon lofes here his military 
 ardour. In general he has but little money and is in 
 want of every thing , his houfe is without furniture: 
 provifions when bought retail are excefiively dear, 
 and he finds himfelf the fole confumer between the 
 inhabitants and the merchant, who feem to ftrive 
 who mall impofe upon him moft. This forces him to act 
 upon the defenfive, he buys by wholefale,and makes 
 the moft of all opportunities of getting good bar- 
 gains, every commodity being of double value after 
 the departure of the mips. The anxiety of provi- 
 ding for his family being at an end, another enfues, 
 he torments himfelf with the thoughts of being an 
 exile from his native country, and being deftined to 
 remain he knows not how long in one deftitute of 
 every comfort and convenience, want of employ- 
 ment and company, aided by the hopes of gain, 
 allure him to engage farther in that commerce, which 
 mere neceffity at firft drove him to. 
 
 THERE are without doubt fome exceptions to this 
 general character of the military, and were they not 
 even numerous, I fhould recite them with pleafure. 
 M. de Steenhovre, the commanding officer is a pat- 
 tern of every virtue, 
 
 THE regiments furnilh a number of workmen v 
 
 far
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 93 
 
 for the heat is not fo exceflive as to prevent the white 
 people from working in the open air. That advan- 
 tage however for the benefit of the colony has not 
 been made in this refpeft, that might have been. A- 
 mong the recruits lent from Europe, there are fre- 
 quently wretches capable of the molt atrocious vil- 
 lainies. I cannot for my part conceive but that the 
 fending of culprits whofe crimes have rendered them 
 unworthy to remain in their native country, muft be 
 of bad confequence to any colony in an incipient ftate. 
 Thcfe unhappy creatures frequently become fo defpe- 
 rate, as to murder each other with their bayonets up- 
 on the moil trifling occafion. 
 
 ALTHOUGH the feamen do but come and go. they 
 yet have a great influence upon the manners of the 
 the inhabitants. Their policy confifts in complain- 
 ing of the places whence they come, as well as of thole 
 they arrive at. They would have you believe that 
 their lucky hour has pafTed them without their ma- 
 king a proper advantage of it, they fpeak of them- 
 felves conitantly as ruined men , they tell you how 
 dear they have bought, and to what lofs they have 
 fold. The truth of this matter is, that they think no 
 bargain a good one, unlefs they get 3150 per cent by 
 it. A calk of claret cofts 150 livres, and every thing 
 elfe in proportion, One would fcarcely imagine that 
 European goods were dearer here than in India, and 
 Indian goods dearer than in Eurqpe. This however 
 is the cafe, The feamen are much regarded by 
 the inhabitants who indeed could hardly exift withr 
 out them. Their murmurings, and perpetual going 
 to and again give the ifland the appearance, and in a 
 degree the manners of an inn. 
 
 From fo many of fuch different conditions, refults 
 as it were a people of different nations who hate each 
 
 other
 
 y4 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 other mod cordially, Probity and honour are in fuj 
 -efteem. X ne cunning man is here the man of wit. It 
 is however in my opininion a character worthy only 
 jof foxes , it is certainly not a property natural 'to the 
 human fpecies, and a wretched fociety muft that be, 
 where it is looked upon as aneftimable quality. (On 
 the other hand, miftruftful or wary people are much 
 diflik,ed ; this may appear a contradiction, but the 
 reafon is, that there is lefs to be got, from perfons ufed 
 to be on their guard, who may detect and expofe thole 
 who would impofe upon them. They will flock a- 
 bout a man whom they know to be artful, and will 
 afiift him to the utmoft in duping the ignorant. 
 
 THEIR infenfibility with refped to the feeling 
 which conftitute the happineis of a generous mind, 
 is extreme. They have no tafte for arts or literature^ 
 but deeply regret their abfence from the Opera and the 
 Women of Paris. Every fentiment of humanity is 
 here depraved, nay, I may fay extinft. I was once 
 at the funeral of a confiderable merchant, but faw nq 
 figns of affliction ; his brother-in-law remarked in- 
 deed that they had not dug the grave fo deep as if 
 flipuld have been. 
 
 THIS indifference extends to all things about them. 
 The ftreets and courts are neither paved, nor planted 
 with [trees , ,the houfes are meer cabbins of wood, 
 which may be eafily removed from one place to ano- 
 ther upon rollers. The windows have neither glafs 
 nor curtains , and the houfes have but little furni-. 
 rure, and that little very fhabby. 
 
 THERE is a fort of exchange, where people meet at 
 noon and in the evening ; here they make their bar- 
 gains, and rail at, and talk fcandal of their neigh- 
 bours. The married people in the town are very 
 
 few
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE, 95 
 
 few. Thofe who are not rich, plead their circum- 
 ftances as an excufe for continuing fmgle : others fay 
 they will not fettle till their return to France ; but 
 i he true reafon is, their feldom or ever meeting with 
 a repiUfe in their attempts upon the negro girls. Be- 
 fides, there are very few good matches for the men., 
 ten thoufand franks * being a fortune but feldom 
 heard of. 
 
 THE greater part of the married people live upon 
 d>eir plantations. The women fcarcely ever come to 
 town but tp a ball, or to confefs at Eafter. T ne y arc 
 irion pafiionately fond of dancing. No fooner is a 
 ball announced, than they come in crouds, brought 
 in palanquins, which are a fort of litter, and carried 
 upon the fhoulders, of four negroes, four others fol- 
 lowing as a relay. As many children as there are in 
 ;he family, fb many of theie vehicles are there, and 
 each attended as above by eight blacks. The huf- 
 bands who are prudent and fav'ing, are very averfe to. 
 thefe excurfions, as hindrances of the bufmefs of the 
 plantations , but the roads arc fo bad, that 3 wheel 
 carriage here is of no ufe. 
 
 THE women are rather pale, but well made, and 
 in general handfome, they have naturally a great 
 flow of wit and fpirits, and if better educated would 
 be moft agreeable companions, but I have known 
 Tome fo ignorant as to be unable to read. 
 
 1 , O -. .-.;..-. ...'... . 
 
 AT their meetings they are referved and filent; each 
 woman brings with her fome fecret pretenfions, either 
 from the fortune, the employ, or the birth of the 
 hufband : others reckon upon ' their youth or their 
 beauty , an Europian looks with difdain upon a Cre- 
 ole, who as often looks upon the European as an 
 adventurer. 
 
 r * L 437i6 or thereabouts, acccording to the rate of Exchange. 
 
 NOT-
 
 96 VOYAGE to the ISLF OF FRANCE. 
 
 NOTWITHSTANDING that the tongue of fcandal ?s 
 ever fpeaking to their prejudice, they are in my o- 
 pinion far more deferving than the men, by whom 
 they are neglected for the black flaves. Such of the 
 women as are really virtuous, are the more to be 
 commended, that it is by no means owing to their e- 
 ducation that they are fo. They have at once to com- 
 bat with the heat of the climate, the indifference of 
 their hufbands, and the prodigality and ardour of 
 young officers, fkilled in fedu&ion and regardlefs of 
 repujfe : if then Hymen complains and with juftice. 
 or the infidelities of the fair fex, whom can we thank 
 but ourfelves, who have introduced the manners of 
 France upon the mores of Africa. 
 
 IN other refpecls they have very many good quali- 
 ties, are domcftic, fober, (drinking water only, ex- 
 cept rarely), and neat in their apprfel to an extreme. 
 The drefs moft common here is f of muflin trimmed 
 with rofe coloured taffaty. They are extravagantly 
 fond of their children, who run about the houle na- 
 ked, very foon after they are born , are never put in 
 Twaddling clothes, but are frequenely bathed, eat 
 fruit as they think proper, live without care, and 
 without ftudy, and foon grow ftrong and robuft^ 
 The puberty of both fexes makes a very early ap- 
 pearance. I have known girls married here at eleven 
 years old. 
 
 THIS manner of bringing up children which ap- 
 proaches fo near to a ftate of nature leaves them in 
 an almoft utter ignorance ; but the vices of the negro 
 women, which they imbibe with their milk, and their 
 caprices, which they are fuffered to exercife upon 
 ; the poor flaves to a degree of tyranny beyond all 
 bounds, adds to this ignorance all the depravity in r 
 cient to ibciety. To remedy this evil, the principal 
 
 people
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 97 
 
 people fend their children while very young into 
 France, from whence they return with vices perhaps 
 more amiable, but certainly more dangerous. 
 
 THE number of Planters on this ifland, is icarcely 
 four hundred. There are about a hundred women 
 of condition, about ten only of whom live in the 
 town. The evening is their viliting time and for 
 want of converfation, they game, or foon grow tired 
 of each other. At eight o'clock the evening gun 
 fires, and every body goes home. 
 
 FAREWELL, my dear friend ; I am really grieved 
 to think that in fpeaking of mankind as they are, 
 the truth carries with it the air of a fatire. 
 
 PORT Louis, Ifle of France, icth of February, 
 1769. 
 
 H LET-
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE of FRANCE, 
 
 LETTER XII. 
 
 Of the BLACK S, 
 
 In the Population of this Ifland, I mull include thor 
 INDIANS and NEGROES. 
 
 the firft are the Malabars, or Malayans,, & 
 f mild and gentle people, who come from Pon- 
 dichcrry, where they let themfeLves as fervants for a- 
 term of years. They are. almoft all of handicraft 
 trades, and occupy a fuburb, called the Camp of the 
 Blacks. This people- is of a deeper hue than the 
 iilanders of Madagafcar, who are perfect Negroes ;.. 
 but have features, as. regular as a Europea-a, and not 
 the frizled hair.. They are fober,. thrifty, and much 
 given . to women. They wear on their heads, a tur- 
 bant, are clothed in long muflin gowns, and carry 
 large rings of gold in their ears, and filver bracelets 
 on their wriils. Some of them let thernfelves to the 
 rich people, and are called P/<-/j, a kind of domeitic 
 like our running footmen, who executes every com- 
 million, with the moft profound gravity , and by way 
 of diftinction, carries a cane in his hand, and a poig- 
 nard in his girdle.. It were to beVifhed, that a great 
 number of Malabars were eftabliihed here, efpecially 
 as labourers , but I never faw one of them fond of 
 farming work. 
 
 THE Blacks who till the ground, are brought from- 
 Madagafcar, where a flave may be bought for a bar- 
 
 rel.
 
 VOYAGE to ibe ISLE OF FRANCE. 99 
 
 f 
 
 fcl of powder, for a few mufquets, linen, or efpeci- 
 ally for piaftres , the greatelt price paid is * fifty 
 crowns, and that rarely. 
 
 TKTIS nation have neither fo flat a nofe, nor fo black 
 a fkin as the Negroes of Guinea. Some of them are 
 only to be called brown,- and fome, as the Falawbous, 
 have long hair, of a brown, or carrotty colour. They 
 are active, ingenious, have a quick fenfe of honour 
 and of gratitude, far lefs mindtul of injuries done to' 
 themfelv-es perfonally, than of thofe offered to their 
 family, which laft, they deem an infult of thehigheft 
 degree. When in their own country, they make a 
 variety of things with much art and induftry. Their 
 za%aye, or halt-pike, is very well forged, although 
 they have nothing but ftones for both anvil and ham- 
 mer. Their linens, or pagxes, which are weaved by 
 women, are very fine, and beautifully coloured. 
 Their manner of throwing this garment round them, 
 is extremely graceful. Their head-drefs is very re- 
 gular, in rows of curls and braids, nicely ranged one 
 above the other ; this is alfo the work of women. 
 They are paffionately fond of dancing and mufic, 
 and play upon an inftrument called a Tamtam, which 
 is a kind of bow, with a gourd bottle fitted to it. 
 The found of it is very foft, and is a pleafing accom- 
 pany ment to their forigs, of which, love is always 
 the fubject. The girls dance to the fongs their lovers 
 compoie, while the fpectators beat time, and applaud 
 the peformance. 
 
 THEY are very hofpitable. A Black who is tra- 
 velling, enters, though unknown, into the firft cot-, 
 tage he comes to ; fits down with the inhabitants of 
 it,- and partakes of their repaft, without being quef-' 
 
 tioned/
 
 ioo VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 tioned, whence he comes ? or whither he is going ? 
 This cuftom is general. 
 
 THESE arts, and thefe manners, they bring with 
 them to the I fie of F ranee, where they are landed 
 with a rag round their loins. The men are ranged 
 on one fide, and on the other, the women, with their 
 infants, who cling for fear to their mothers. The 
 inhabitant having examined them, as he would a 
 horfe, buys what are for his purpofe. Brothers 
 fitters friends lovers are torn afunder, and bid- 
 ding each other a long farewell, are driven weeping 
 to the plantations they are bought for. Sometimes 
 they turn defperate *, fancying that the white people 
 intend eating their flefh, making red wine of the"./ 
 blood, and gunpowder of their bones. 
 
 THEY are treated in the following manner : At 1 
 break of day, a fignal of three fmacks of a whip 
 calls them to work, each of them betakes himfelf with. 
 his fpade to the plantations, where they work al- 
 moft naked in the heat of the fun. Their food is 
 maize, bruifed, and boiled, or bread made of Ma- 
 nioc 7, and their clothing, a fmgle piece of linen. 
 Upon the commifTion of the moft trivial offence, they 
 arc tied hand and foot to a ladder ; the overfeer then 
 comes with a whip like a poftilion's, and gives them 
 fifty, a hundred, or perhaps two hundred lafues upon- 
 the back. Each ftroke carries off its portion of fkin. 
 The Door wretch is then untied, an iron collar with 
 three fpikes put round his neck, and he is then fent 
 
 * Ludicroufly extravagant, as this fancy may fcem, reflc&ion 
 upon the barbarities exercifcd upon them mull allow the poffibi- 
 lity of its fuggefting itfelf, efpecially in minds fo ignorant as the 
 flaves are dele ri bed to be. 7". 
 
 f A root, for which the Englifh have no name. 'Tis poiibn, 
 if eaten raw, but wholcfomc aad good, if boiled. T. 
 
 back
 
 VOYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRANCE. lot 
 
 back to his tafk. Some of them are unable to fit 
 down for a month after this beating, which punifh- 
 ment is inflicted with equal feverity on women as 
 on men. 
 
 IN the evening, when they return home, they are 
 obliged to pray for the profperity of their matters ; 
 and before they go to reft, they wifh him a good 
 night. 
 
 THERE is a law in force in their favour, called the 
 Code Noire, which ordains, that they fhall receive no 
 more than thirty lames for any one offence, that 
 they fhall not work on Sundays, that they mail eat 
 meat once a week, and have a new fhirt every year ; 
 but this law is not obferved. Sometimes when 
 grown too old to labour, they are turned out to 
 get their bread where they can. One day I faw a 
 poor creature who was nothing but fkin and bone, 
 cutting off the flefh of a dead horfe to eat 9 It was 
 one fkeleton devouring another. 
 
 WHEN a European feems affected at thefe fights, 
 the inhabitants tefi him, he does not know the Blacks 
 That they are fuch gluttons as to go and fteal 
 victuals from the neighbouring houfes ; fo idle, that 
 they take no manner of care of their matter's bufmefs, 
 nor do what they are fet about ; that the women 
 are totally inattentive to family affairs, and fo little 
 concerned about children, that they had rather pro- 
 cure an abortion, than bring them into the world. 
 
 THE Negroes are naturally lively, but after having 
 been fome time in ilavery, become melancholy. Love 
 feems the only paffion their forrows will permit them 
 to be fenfible of. They do all in their power to get 
 married j and if their own choice is fuffered to take 
 
 H 3 place,
 
 iO2 .VOYAGE to \bs ISLE OF FRANCS. 
 
 place, they generally prefer thofe \vho have p:> 
 the prime of their youth -, who, they tell you, racks 
 better joup than the very' youns cues. They give the 
 wife all they poflefs. If their millrefs is the Have of 
 another planter, they will go three or four leagues in 
 the night to fee her, through ways one would think 
 impaffable. When under the influence of this paffion^ 
 they are 'alike 'fearlefs of fatigue or of punilhmcnt. 
 Sometimes they appoint a rendezvous in the middle 
 of the night, and perhaps, under the flicker of a reck, 
 they dance to the difmal found, of a bladder filled 
 with peas : but the fight of a white perfon, or the 
 barking of a dog, immediately breaks up the af- 
 lembly. 
 
 THEY have alfo dogs with them, and it is an un- 
 doubted truth, that thefe animals 1 know perfectly, 
 even in the dark, not only a white man, but a dog 
 that belongs to a white man, both of whom, they 
 fear and hate j howling as foon as they approach. 
 
 THE dogs of the white people feem on their parts, 
 to have adopted the fentiments of their mailers ; and 
 at the kaft encouragement, will fly with the utmoft 
 fury upon a flave, or upon his dog. 
 
 IN fliort, the Blacks are fometimes unable to en- 
 dure their hard lot, and give themfelves up to def- 
 pair. Some, hang or poifon themfelves ; others will 
 get into a little boat, and without fails, provifions, 
 or compafs, hazard a voyage of two hundred leagues, 
 to return to Madagafcar, where they have been fome- 
 times feen to land ; and have been taken, and fent 
 back to their mafters. 
 
 IN general, they fecrete themfelves in the woods, 
 where they ^re hunted by parties of foldiers, and by 
 
 Other
 
 VOYAGE t9 tbs ISLE OF FRANCE. 103 
 
 other negroes with dogs. Some of the inhabitants 
 form parties of pleafure for this purpoie put up a 
 Negro as they would a wild beait, aad if they can- 
 not hunt him down will fhoot him cut off his 
 head and bring it in triumph to town upon the end 
 of a flick. Of this I am an eye-witnefs every week. 
 
 WHEN a Maron-Negro is catched, he is whipped,, 
 and one of his ears cut off : The fecond time, he is 
 ao-ain whipped, the fmews cf his hams cut acr'ofs, and 
 he is put in chains : for the third offence he is hanged; 
 but is kept in ignorance of his fentence, 'till put in 
 execution. 
 
 I HAVE feen fome of them hanged and broken a- 
 live. They went to execution with joy, and fuffcrcd 
 without a cry. I once faw even a woman, throw her- 
 felf from the top of the ladder. They believe that 
 they ihall find more happincfs in another world, and 
 that the Father of Mankind is not unjufl, as men 
 are. 
 
 SOMETIMES they are baptized, and are told they 
 thereby become the brethren of the white people, and 
 will go to Heaven. But they are hardly to be made 
 believe that the Europeans can ever be inftrumcntal 
 to their going to JParadife ; laying, that on earth, 
 they are the caufe of all the fuiferings they endure. 
 They fay, that before Europeans landed in their coun- 
 try, they fought with flicks headed with iron , that 
 they now, taught by us, kill each other at a grea'c 
 diftance with fire and balls ; that in order to procure 
 ilaves at a cheap rate, we foment continual divifions 
 and ars among them ; that formerly they followed 
 the impulfe of Nature, without fear of thole grievous 
 diilempers, with which we have poiibned the confti- 
 tutions of their women : that- we fuffer them to lan- 
 guifh, without clothes, and without nouriihment, and 
 
 beat
 
 104 VOYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRANCS, 
 
 beat them inhumanly without reafon. Of all this, I 
 have feen frequent instances. A female Have came 
 one day, and throwing herfelf proftrate at my feet, 
 told me j that her miiirels made her rife fo very ear- 
 ly every morning, and fit up every night io late, that 
 me was almoft totally without deep j and that v\ hen 
 overcome with fatigue, me did chance to drop aileep, 
 her miftrefs caufed her lips to be rubbed with ordure, 
 which if me did not lick off, fhe underwent a whip- 
 ping. A relief from this intolerable grievance, was 
 what me begged I would intercede for. I did fo ; 
 and obtained my requefb. Interceffions of this kind, 
 are fometimes complied with, and the punilhment is 
 redoubled a few days after. I v/as a witnefs to tL's 
 conduct, in a Counicllor, whofe Blacks complained 
 Of him to the Governor , and who alTured me, that 
 on the morrow he would have them flead from head 
 to foot. Not a day paflls, but both men and women 
 are whipped for having broken earthen ware for not 
 ihutting the door after them, or fome fuch trifling 
 reafon ; and when almoft covered with blood, are 
 rubbed with vinegar and fait to heal their wounds. 
 
 O 
 
 On the key, I have fornetimes feen them fo over- 
 whelmed with grief, that they have been unable even, 
 to utter a cry,- others biting the cannon to 
 which they are tied. My penis weary of writing this 
 recital of horrors -, my eyes of feeing, and my ears or. 1 " 
 hearing their doleful moanings. Happy you, who 
 when tired of continuing in town, can retire to a 
 country where fertile plains are feen, with rifing 
 hills, villages, harvefts and vintages, the plenty of 
 which chears the hearts of a people who accompa- 
 ny their labours with dancing and finging. Signs 
 thefe, at leaft, of happinefs. The rights I fee, are 
 poor Negro women bent over a fpade, the compa- 
 nion of their labour, their children flung at their 
 backs Negroes, who pafs trembling and fhrinking 
 
 before.
 
 VOYAGE; to tbe ISLE OF FRANCE, 105 
 
 before me, fometimes I hear the found of their *'Tam~ 
 hour afar off; but far more frequently, the fmack of 
 the whips, that eccho in the hills like the report of 
 a piftol, and cries of, 4> Mercy ! Mafter, Mercy !" 
 which at once itrike my ears and pierce my heart. 
 
 JF I feek a retirement, I r]nd a country, barren, 
 rugged, and rocky ; mountains whofe fummits, 
 inacceffibie, retard the courfe of the clouds, and 
 breaking them, form torrents that rufh into abyffes 
 equally horrible and and tremendous, The winds 
 that roar in the deferts, the hollow, difmal found of 
 the waves darning upon the breakers, the fea before 
 me, vaft, and extending to regions unknown to the 
 human race, all combine to deprefs and deject my 
 fpirits, and to furnim me with ideas fit only for an 
 exile and an cutcait. 
 
 PoRT-Louis, April 15, 1769. 
 
 P. .. WHETHER coffee andfugar are really necef- 
 fary to the happinefs of Europe, is more than I can 
 fay, but I affirm that theie two vegetables have 
 jbrought wretchednefs and mifery upon America and 
 Africa. The former is depopulated, that Europeans 
 may have a land to plant them in ; and the latter, is 
 dripped of its inhabitants, for hands to cultivate 
 them. 
 
 IT is thought more for our intereft to have planta- 
 tions for cultivating ourfelves the commodities we 
 want, than to purcfyafe them of our neighbours. But 
 
 * I fuppofe this to be the inllrumsnt they dance to, as before- 
 tfientioncd. T. 
 
 But
 
 io6 VOYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 But fmce carpenters, bricklayers, mafons, and other 
 workmen from Europe, can work in the open air, and 
 expofed to the fun, why mould not white men be 
 employed in all forts of labour ! But what then is to 
 become of the proprietors of thefe lands ? I aniwer, 
 they would become the richer by this means. An 
 inhabitant would live at his eafe, were he to employ 
 twenty farmers, pofieffed of twenty flaves, he ftrug- 
 gles in vain with an infurmountable poverty. The 
 number of flaves here are computed at 2000. A 
 yearly recruit of an eighteenth part of that, number, 
 is found abfolutcly neceflary. Hence wefeethat the 
 colony left to itfelf, would in eighteen years be ex- 
 tirpated. So true is it, that without liberty and 
 property, population muft decreafe, and that in- 
 juftice and good hufbandry are incompatible. 
 
 THE Code Noir^ is faid to be made for relief of 
 the flaves. Be it fo Yet does the cruelty of the 
 mafters exceed the punifhment it permits, and their 
 avarice with-hold the food, the reit, and the rewards 
 it decrees. If the poor wretches complain of this 
 infringement, to whom do they feek for redrcfs ? to 
 judges, who are perhaps the tyrants, under whole, 
 opprefiion they languifh. 
 
 BUT fay they, thefe people are not to be retrained, 
 but by ieverities. Punifhments muft be inflicted, 
 iron collars with three points, whips, fetters for their 
 legs * ; and chains of iron for their necks muft be 
 
 made 
 
 * I cannot help attempting to defcribe in this place, a fort of 
 IRON MASK, or as it is more properly called a MUZZLE, great 
 numbers of which, I am told, are kept by feveral wholefale iron- 
 mongers in this city, to fupply the orders of merchants and plan- 
 ters in the Weil-India iflands I have feen one of them at the 
 houfe of a Gentleman, as well known for his universal benevolence, 
 
 33'
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE, 107 
 
 ; ft nde life of they mu ft be treated like favage beafts, 
 or the white people could not live like men. From 
 this principle, fo grofsly unjuft, no confequences can 
 be deduced, but what are equally unjuft and inhu- 
 man j nor does it fulfice, that thefe poor Negroes are 
 victims to the avarice and cruelty of the moft depra- 
 ved of men, but they muft alfo be the fporj; of their 
 fophillical arguments. 
 
 OUR priefts tell them, that the flavery of their pre- 
 fent life, will enfure to them a fpiritual liberty in 
 Heaven. But the greater part are bought at an age 
 too late to learn French, and our MifTionaries do not 
 underftand the language of the country. Moreover, 
 
 as for his particular perfeverance in behalf of the African Negrccs, 
 and who ufes it as an IRON argument againft the toleration of 
 SlaVf holding. It is fattened round the peck of the wretched Cul- 
 prit, by a collar, from which rife fme Bars of iron, forming the 
 Ma(k and Head-piece $ before the mouth is a round plate of 
 iron, wherein are bored holes, to allow a imall portion of breath. 
 
 to tlie wearer. There is a!fo a place for his nofe. -Aflat 
 
 pica- uf iron gors into the mouth, at>d adts upon the tongue and 
 
 glands, as a flayering-bit does upon thofe of a horfe. Worn by 
 
 a man working beneath the (torching rays of the fun in the torrid 
 zone, it foon attains a violent degree of heat, which with the 
 on!tant flowing c f the f.iliva, in a little time, excoriates the nofe, 
 rnouth, and chin, and muftoccafion a TORMENT, the very idea of 
 which it would give me pain to convey to the Reader. In En- 
 gland, we put upon a vicious horfe, or a mifchievous Jog, a muz- 
 zle of Lfi/tTHfR, ; this, lelf-prefervation dictates, but 
 
 what cogent motive can urge the flave-holder, to put upon his 
 
 fellow-creature upon a MAN A MUZZLE OF IRON. 1 will 
 
 tell the Reader. "Tis to prevent him, when at work, from 
 
 fucking, or eating of the fugar-canes, herein denying him that 
 indulgence which the ALMIGHTY GOD charged the Ifraelire, by 
 the remembrance of his own flavery in Egypt, to Ihew to HIS 
 BEAST, when treading cut the corn, or from putting an-end to 
 his wretched exiftencej by cramming himfeif with the dirt of the 
 ground. A practice to which the defpairing wretches are fre- 
 quently driven by the merulefs treatment oi their worfe than 
 Egyptian Tafkmalters. T. 
 
 thofe
 
 joS 
 
 thofe who have been baptized, are not a jot better 
 treated than the reft. 
 
 THE Planters add, that the Negroes merit the 
 vengeance of Heaven,, for the trarEc they carry on. 
 Are we then to take upon us to be their executioners ? 
 Let us leave the deftruction of kites to the vultures. 
 
 I AM concerned to fee, that Philofophers, who en- 
 ter the lifts with fo much alacrity to combat other 
 abufes, fcarcely fpeak of this flavery of the Negroes, 
 beyond a degree of pleafantry. Indeed, 'tis a fubjefb 
 they feem deiirous of avoiding. They fpeak of the 
 maflacre of Paris, and of the Mexicans by the Spa 
 niards, as if the crimes of our days, and in which the 
 half of Europe are conqerned either as principals or 
 accefiaries, were not equal to them, Can they be- 
 lieve the iniquity of murdering a number of people 
 of a different perfuafion than ourfelves, to be greater, 
 than that of bringing mifery and torment or the fe- 
 vereft natu.re upon a whole nation, to whom we are 
 indebted for thofe delicacies which our luxury has 
 rendered neceflary to us ? Thofe beautiful rofe and 
 flame-colours, in which our Ladies arc drefTed, cot- 
 ton, of fp, general ufe, coffee and chocolate, now the 
 only breakfaft admitted to polite tables , the rouge 
 with which the pallid beauty gives new bloom to her 
 complexion ; all thefe are prepared by the induftri- 
 ous hand of the enflaved and oppreffed Negro. Ye 
 women of fenfibility and fentiment, who weep at the 
 affedting ftory of a novel, or the reprefentation of a 
 tragedy, know, that what conftitutes your chiefeft 
 delight, is moiftened with the tears, aod cfced. 
 the blood of men. 
 
 LET-
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 109 
 
 LETTER XIII. 
 
 AGRICULTURE. Herbs, Vegetables, and Flowers 
 imported. 
 
 TH E greater part of the plants, trees and ani- 
 mals, I am about to defcribe, have been brought 
 liere by order of government. Some of the inhabi- 
 tants have contributed their endeavours for this pur- 
 pofe , among others, Meffrs. de Coflini, Poivre, Her- 
 mans, and le Juge. I wifhed to have learnt the 
 names of the others, that I might have mentioned 
 them with the refpect which is their due. The gift, 
 or introducing of a ufeful plant, being, in my opi- 
 nion, of more confequence, than the dilcovery of a 
 
 gold mine, and a monument more durable than a 
 
 8 . , ' 
 
 pyramid. 
 
 I SPEAK of them in the following order ; firft, the 
 plants, which being once fown, ever after fow them- 
 ielves, and are, as it were, naturalized in the coun* 
 try -, iecondly, thole that are articles of cultivation 
 in the country , thirdly, the produce of the kitchen- 
 garden ; fourthly, of the flower-garden. I ftiallpur- 
 fue the fame method with the trees and fhrubs. Of 
 thofe I know, I (hall omit none. Whatever Nature 
 has not difdained to form, we certainly ought not to 
 think too infignificant to defcribe. 
 
 AMONG the plants that grow wild, is found in fomc 
 of the plains round the town, a kind of indigo, which 
 
 I ap-
 
 iio VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE'; 
 
 I apprehend to be foreign to this iQand. It is of ncr 
 ufe. 
 
 THE Purflain grows in liindy places , I take this' 
 to be natural here, being reckoned among that clafs 
 of Plants, which when rotten, manures the ground, 
 and which Nature feems to have made the growth of* 
 dry and fandy foils, to facilitate vegetations of other 
 kinds. 
 
 WATER-CRESSES, are found in every rivulet. They 
 have been brought here thefe ten years. The Dande- 
 lion and wormwood grow fpohtaneoufly in rubbifh, 
 or ground newly opened ; but above all, the mullen' 
 expands its large downy leaves, and moots up its gi- 
 randole of yellow flowers to a furprizing height. 
 
 THE Bulrum (not the Chinefe plant fo called) is a 
 gfafs about the height of well-grown rye. It extends" 
 itfelf daily, and choaks the plants that grow near it, 
 It is apt to be tough when dry, and mould therefore 
 be cut before ripe. It is green for five months only 
 in a year, and it is afterwards iet on fire, notwith- 
 ftanding the burning of it is prohibited. The flames 
 of it burn and parch up the out-fkirts of the woods, 
 
 THE White-grafs, (fo called from the colour of its 
 .flower) was brought here, as being proper for forage,/ 
 but no animal will eat of it ; the feed relembles that 
 of cherville. It multiplies fo fail, that it is become; 
 one of the plagues of hufbandry. 
 
 THE Brette, which fignifies in the Indian langu- 
 age, a leaf good to eat, is a fpecies of the morell. 
 There are two forts of it ; one called the Brette of 
 Madagafcar. Its leaf is rather prickly, but of a 
 .pleafant tafte, and is purgative. The other is com-' 
 
 morily
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF EAANCE. in 
 
 monly ferved up to table as fpinnage, and is the only 
 food of which the Blacks may eat at difcretion, and 
 grows all over the iiland. The water in which it is 
 boiled becomes very bitter. In this liquor, mingled 
 and ftill more imbittered by their tears, the Negroes 
 ileep their Cafiave, 
 
 AMONG the plants cultivated in the country, is, 
 the CafTave-Root. It grows in dry foils ; its juice 
 has loll the poifonous quality it formerly had : 'tis a 
 fhrub, whofe leaf is like that of hemp, with a root as 
 thick and as long as a man's arm ; when rafped, and 
 imprefTed, they make cakes of it, that are heavy like 
 dough. Three pounds of this are allowed for the food 
 of a Negro for one day. This vegetable grows and 
 fpreads very fail, M. de la Bourdonnois brought it 
 from America. 'Tis a uieful plant, beiog eafily 
 fhekered from the hurricanes, and enfures a certain 
 fubfiftence to the Negroes, for the dogs will not eat 
 it. 
 
 THE Maize orTwkifh corn grows very beautifully 
 here. 'Tis a precious grain j turns to good account, 
 but will not keep more than a year, as the mitses. get 
 into it : this, I think, a good reafon why die culti- 
 vation of it mould be encouraged in Europe, as it 
 cannot be with- held long from market. It ferves as 
 food for the Haves, the fowls, and the cattle. J Tis 
 worthy remark, that the inhabitants fpeak highly of 
 the excellence of Maize and the Manioc, but never 
 eat of either. 1 have feen little cakes of them in a 
 defert, and when they are made with a great deal of 
 fugar, of wheat-flower, and yolks of eggs,, they are 
 very eatable. 
 
 WHEAT
 
 112 VOYAGE to tbe ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 WHEAT grows well here, but not to any great 
 heighth. They put the feed into the ground by fin- 
 gle grains, becaufe of the rocks -, they cut it with 
 knives, and threlh it out with fmall flicks. It will 
 not keep fo long as two years. Pliny tells us, that 
 in Barbary and Spain, it was put in full ear into 
 holes in the earth, taking care to introduce a pro- 
 per quantity of air. Varro fays, that it would keep 
 by this means for fifty years, and millet, for a whole 
 century. Pompey found at Ambratia fome beans 
 preferved in this manner, fmce the time of Pyrrhus, 
 which was near 120 years. But Pliny will not ad- 
 mit of the cultivation of the earth by (laves of any 
 kind, whofe work, he fays, is never done effectually. 
 Although the meal of the wheat that grows here is 
 not fo white as that from Europe, yet I prefer the 
 bread of it, to that of european meal, which eithef 
 grows vapid, or ferments during the voyage, 
 
 RICE, the befl, and perhaps the moft wholefome of 
 all aliments, thrives very much. It keeps longer 
 than the wheat, and yields more plentifully. A 
 wet foil agrees with it befl. There are above fe- 
 ven different fpecies of it in Afia, one of which 
 grows befl in a dry foil -, it were to be wifhed, that 
 this grain were cultivated in Europe, on account of 
 its extraordinary fertility. 
 
 THE fmaller kind of millet yields abundantly. 
 It is feldom given but to the blacks and the beafls. 
 Oats thrive exceedingly, but the cultivation of them, 
 or of any thing elfe, which the blacks or the beafls 
 only derive benefit from, is very little attended to. 
 
 THE Tobacco is not good. None is planted but 
 by the Negroes for their own ufe 
 
 THE
 
 VOYAGE to the ISI.E OF FRANCE, nj 
 
 THE Fata^nc, is a grafs, bearing large leaves, of 
 the nature of a fmall role-tree. They import it frOm 
 Madagafcar, and make of it the molt delightful arti- 
 ficial meadows. 
 
 EXPERIMENTS have been made, but without fuc- 
 cefs, to make Saint-foin, Trefoil, Hemp, Flax, and 
 Hops grow here. 
 
 You will obfcrvCj that our vegetables in general 
 degenerate hefe^ and that thofe who 1 wifh to have 
 them good, are fupplied every year with feed from 
 Europe, or the Cape of Good-Hope. The fmall 
 peas are tough, and taftelefs , the French beans are 
 hard ; there is a. fort larger, and more tender; called 
 Cape-peas ; it is worth tranfplanting to France. 
 Another fort of bearis which they barrel, they chop 
 the hufks to pieces, and drefs them as peas. There 
 is another kind of bean (with a pod a foot long) whicli 
 they plant and form arbours of. The grain is very 
 large, but of no fort of tife. 
 
 ARTICHOAKS grow here, their leaves are very 
 large, and the .fruit but finall. The Cwdoon * i3 
 always tough here j but being alfo very prickly^ 
 and growing to a great height^ it makes very good 
 hedges. 
 
 THE Giromon, is a pumpkin, not fo large as our;,- 
 and if polfible, of a more infipid tafte. The cu- 
 cumber is fmaller, and not fo plentiful as in Europe. 
 The melons here are good for nothing, altho' much 
 boafled of on account of their fcarcity . The Pajlrqm , 
 <Dr Watcr-mdon, is forriethinp- better than the other. 
 
 * A kind pf thift}?, there is one fort of rhis pfcnt that is 
 io falfu.t. T. 
 
 I Th
 
 I1 4 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRAXCS. 
 
 'I 'he climate fuits thcfe fruits very well \ but the 
 loomin?fs of the foil, is againft them. Gourds grov/ 
 here to an enormous iize, and are of particular uti- 
 lity ; they ferve the Blacks for plates and difhe:. 
 
 THE Rriugella or Aubergine, is of 'two forts ; the 
 one bears a fmall, round and yellow fruit, and has a 
 very prickly flem , it comes IromMr.dagufcar. The 
 other, which is known in Paris, is a violet-coloured 
 fruit, cf the.fize and form of a large fig. \Vhen ihh 
 fruit is well fenfcned and boiled, it is not bad eatinr. 
 
 ' O 
 
 THERE are two forts of pepper -, that known in 
 Kurope, and another natural to this place , it is a 
 ihrub bearing very fmall fruit, that mine like fo ma- 
 ny grains of coral upon the mofl beautiful green fo- 
 liage imaginable. The Creoles ufe it in ail their HI- 
 
 * ^ ^_> 
 
 gouts. It is itronger than any other kind of pepper, 
 and will burn like a cauitick. They call it ir.ad 
 pepper. 
 
 THE Pine- Apple, the mod beautiful of all fruits, for 
 the variegated colouring of its fcaly rind, for its pur 
 pL- creit, and for its fragrant frr.cll, v/hicii is like tlu: 
 of aviolet, never ripens here perfectly. Its juice is very 
 .jold, and prejudicial to the ftomach. Its bark is 
 on the contrary very hot, and taltes like pepper ^ 
 perhaps as corrective of the juice. Nature fre- 
 quently contrails the qualities of the fame fubject -, 
 the bark of the citron is of a hot nature, the juice of 
 a cooling ; the rind of the pomegranate is aftringent, 
 t!i- keds are laxative. &c. 
 
 STRAWBERRIES begin to thrive in the cool parts. 
 They have neither the fragrancy nor the Iweetnels of 
 ours i they yield but Sparingly, any more than the 
 rafberries, which are imich degenerated. There is a 
 
 fpecies
 
 VOYAGE to tbe ISLE OF FRANCE. 115 
 
 fpecies of them from China, very beautiful, and in 
 great plenty, which grow to the iize of cherries, but 
 have neither taile nor fmell. 
 
 iGE is fcarce here. Garden crefles, forrel, 
 chtrville, parily, fennel, and ccllery, have ftringy 
 it*ms, and are raifed with great difficulty. Leeks, 
 lettuce, endif, and collifiowers, are fmaller, but not 
 ib tender as ours. Cabbage, the moil ufeful of all 
 vegetables, and which is found in all parts, thrives 
 very well here. Burnet, purflain, and fage, grow in 
 abundance , but efpecially the Capitdne which grows 
 upon large efpaliers, and is very long lived. 
 
 ASPARAGUS is not much larger than a packthread, 
 and has degenerated in tafle as well as in bulk, and 
 fo have carrots, parfnips, turneps, fafafras, and ra- 
 difhes, which are of a biting taftc. There is, how- 
 ever, a nidifh from China, that grows very well here. 
 The beet-root grows beautifully, but is very fticky. 
 Potatoes, JsLnum Amernanum, are not bigger here 
 than nuts. The Indian ones, called Cambar, fre- 
 quently weigh above a pound a-piece ; their fkin is 
 of a beautiful violet-colour, but within they are very 
 white and taftelefs , they however, ferve for food for 
 the blacks. They increafe very faft, as well as the 
 Jerufalem artichoak, fome forts of which are prefer- 
 able to our chcfnuts. ' Saffron is an herb that tinges 
 the ragouts with yellow, as do the ftamina of the 
 European kind. The ginger here, is net fo hot as 
 that of India. What is called here, the Piftachia-nut, 
 which is not the fruit of the piitachia-tree, is a (mall 
 almond, that grows in the ground in a wrinkled fhtll. 
 It is plealant eating when roaited, but is hard of di- 
 geition. They cultivate it here, in order to extract 
 oil for burning. This plant is a fort of phenomenon 
 in botany, it being uncommon for vegetables that
 
 n6 VOYAGE to tie ISLE or FRANCE. 
 
 yield fruit of an unctuous nature, to bear them be- 
 low the furface of the ground. 
 
 CHIVES, leeks, an-d onions are fmaller than .in 
 France, and even than in the Iik of Bourbon, which 
 is fo near. 
 
 AMONG the plants of the flower garden, I fhall fpeak 
 firft of our own, and then of thofe of Alia, and 
 Africa^ 
 
 THE tuberofe, larksfoot, the large daify of Chiraa,, 
 pinks of a Imall fpecies r flourifh here as in Europe ; 
 large pinks, and lillies bear a number of leaves, but 
 ieldom flowers.. The anemony, ranunculus, Indian- 
 pink, and rofe, do not thrive here, any more than 
 the July-flower, or poppy. I faw no otixr flo \vcrs 
 that we kaow of in Europe among the curious, ex- 
 cept the above-mentioned. Many people have at- 
 tempted,, but in vain,, to tranlplant hither, thyme, 
 lavender, the field-daify, violets, and wild-poppy, 
 the red of which, with the azure of the blue-bell, lo. 
 beautifully decorate our golden harvcfts. Oil ! hap- 
 py France ! a corner of whole fields, is, in my eyes,, 
 more defirable, thna the molt beautiful garden this 
 iiland affords.. 
 
 AMONG the flowering-plants of Africa, I know but 
 one, tiizbd'.eimmorteile of the Cape, thefteds of which 
 are as large and red as ftrawben ies, and grow in a. 
 clufter at the top of a Item, the leaves of which are 
 like pieces of grey cloth ; another immortelle^ with: 
 purple flowers, grows all over the iflahd ; a reed, the 
 fize of a horfe-hair, which bears a group of leavY.;,, 
 white jn the infide, and .violet-coloured without : at 
 a diftahce, that bouquet appears in the air ; it comes 
 from the. Cape, as does ailb a fort of tulip, baring 
 
 but
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 117 
 
 but two leaves, which lie upon the ground, and feem 
 to adhere to it : a Chinefe plant that fows itfelf, and 
 bear; little flowers like roles -, upon its ftem there 
 are five or fix, variegated alike, from a deep blood- 
 red to the brighteil fcarJet. None of thefe flowers 
 have any fmell, and thofe which are known to have 
 it in Europe, lofe it on their being traniplanted hi- 
 ther. 
 
 ALOES fiourim here. Their leaves turn to good 
 account, the fap of them afford a medicinal gum, 
 and the threads are very fit for a manufacture of 
 cloth. They grow upon the rocks, and in the parts 
 fcorched by the fun. The one grows out in leaves, 
 ilrong, thick, and as large as a man, and is armed 
 with a long fhaft : from the center grows a ftem as 
 high as a tree, furnifhed with flowers, from which 
 drops gum-aloes in a perfect ftate. The others are 
 upnghr, like tapers, feveral fpans high, and have a 
 number of very marp prickles about them : thefe laft 
 are marbled, and referable ferpents that crawl upon 
 the oround. 
 
 O 
 
 NATURE feems to have treated the Africans and 
 Alutics as barbarians, in having given them thefe 
 at. once magnificent, yet monftrous vegetables, and 
 to. have dealt with us as beings capable of fenfibi- 
 lity and fociety. Oh ! when {hall I bieath the 
 perfumes of the honeyfuckle ? again repofe myfelf 
 upon a carpet of milk-weed, fafiron, and blue-bells, 
 the food of our lowing herds ? and once more hear 
 Aurora welcomed by the fongs of the Labourer, 
 bleffcd with freedom and content. 
 
 PcRT-Louis, Ifle of France, May 29, 1769. 
 
 L E T-
 
 n8 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 LETTER XIV. 
 
 S H R U B S and T R E E S brought to the I fie of 
 
 France. 
 
 H E rofe-tree thriv.es fo well here, that hedges 
 H are made of it-, but the flowers are not fo tuft- 
 ed, nor is the fmcll Ib fine as ours.-, there is of diffe- 
 rent forts, among which, a fmall one from China, is 
 in bioom all the year round. The jeffamines of Spain 
 and France are perfectly naturalized in this foil , thofe 
 of Afia, I mail ipeak of in tfceir place. There are 
 pomegranate-trees with a double flower, and with 
 iruit upon them, but they are good for little. The 
 myrtle does not grow fo beautiful here as in Provence. 
 Thefe are all the fthubs from Europe. 
 
 THOSE from Afia, Africa, and America, are, the 
 is * with a fcalloped leaf ; it is not at all like ours, 
 
 a large fhrub, overgrown with yellow flowers of a 
 llrong fmell, that look like fmall tufts : it yields a 
 bean, with the grain of which they dye black. Being 
 prickly, it makes good hedges. 
 
 THE FmC fa-pat ie-\, an Indian word, fignifying the 
 Sl.Qemaker' > s fljwer its flower rubbed upon leather, 
 
 * Bla^k currant bufh. 
 
 f I flvuld ratnef fuppofe it a corruption of the Prrtugurze namr, 
 in which language, Fro/ de Zapafe, or de Z.oiatero t fignifies, the 
 flioe-fiower, or the Ihoemnker's iiower, 2f. 
 
 flains
 
 VOYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRANCE, 119 
 
 ftains it black. The foliage of this fhrub is of a 
 beautiful green, and larger than that of the yoke- 
 elm , in the middle of which glitter the flowers like 
 pinks, but of a deep red. They have nurferies of this 
 fhrub, of which there are various forts. 
 
 THE PointiHad:\ originally fron America, is a 
 fpecies of bramble, bearing girandoles of yellow and 
 red flowers, from which (hoot tufts of a flame-colour. 
 This flower is very beautiful, but foon fades-, it yields 
 a bean. Its leaves are divided like that of all 
 leguminous fhrubs. 
 
 JALOP bears flowers fhaped like a funnel, of a 
 crirnfon red ; they blow only in the night, and have 
 a fmell like the tuberofe. I have feen two forts of 
 their, 
 
 THE Vine of Madagafcar, is a rattan of which they 
 make cradles ; it gives a yellow flower. Its downy 
 haves feem as if covered with meal. 
 
 THE Mougr'n is ajeflamine, with a flower like the 
 orange-tree. Some have double^ and fome {ingle 
 flowers, of a very agreeable fmell. 
 
 THE Franchipanier is dill another jeflfamine, that 
 grows in the form of ftagwood ; from the extremity 
 of thefe homes fprout bunches of long leaves, in the 
 center of which are large white flowers, fhaped like a 
 funnel, and of a charming fmell. 
 
 o 
 
 THE Indian Lilaih^ grows here, and dies foon j its 
 leaf is fcolloped, and of a beautiful green. It is 
 loaded with clutters of flowers, which have a pleafint 
 fmell enough, and turn to feed. This flirub riles to 
 tjie height of a tree, and in a handfome form , its 
 
 I 4 green
 
 120 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 green is finer, but the flowers not fo beautiful as 
 thofe of our lilach, which does not grow here. 
 
 THE Pepper-tree is a rattan, or tiajme^ which creeps 
 along the ground like ivy , it ihoots well, but yields 
 no fruit. It is not yet known whether the foil will 
 agree with the tea-tree, which has been brought hi- 
 ther from China, as well as the rattan, this laftis ufcd 
 as commonly in India, as the ofier is in Europe. 
 
 THE Cotton-tree grows in the dried parts of the 
 ifland, like a fhrub, it bears a pretty yellow flower, 
 to which fucceeds a pod, containing the flocks. 
 Cotton is not cultivated here, for want of mills to. 
 grind it : and till ground it is not an article of 
 commerce. 
 
 THE Sugar-cane ripens here in perfection ; the 
 inhabitants make an indifferent fort of liquor of it, 
 which they call flan?ourin. There is but one fugar- 
 houfe in the \vhole ifland. 
 
 THE Coffee-tree is the moft ufeful plant of any that 
 grows here.- It is a fpecies of jeflfamine, its flower is 
 w/ute, leaves of fine green, fhaped like laurel-leaves, 
 and are oppofed to each other. It's fruit is a red 
 olive, like a cherry,, which feparates into two beans. 
 They plant them at feven feet and a half ^-hinder, 
 and when they grow as high as fix feet, they crop 
 them. 'It lives feven years only, arid when three 
 years old is in its prime. The annual produce of 
 each tree is valued at one pound of berries. A black 
 can. attend to one thoufand feet of thefe in a year, 
 exclufive of what elfe he cultivates for his own fub- 
 fillence. The ifland does not yet produce coffee 
 enough for it's own confumption. The inhabitants 
 reckon it to be next to the Mocha coffee in quality. 
 
 AMONQ
 
 VOYAGE to ibe ISLE OF. FRANCE. 121 
 
 AMONG the trees of Europe, the pine, the fir, 
 the oak grow to a middling ftature, and then 
 decay. I have alfo feen here cherry, apricot, med- 
 lar, apple, pear, olive, and mulberry- trees , but 
 without fruit, though ibme of them had flowers. 
 The fig-tree produces a tolerable fruit. The vine 
 does not fucceed upon props \ but when in arbours, 
 bears grapes, which, like thofe in the gardens of 
 Alcinous, ripen one part after another :* a good vin- 
 tage cannot therefore be expected. The peach-tree 
 gives fruit enough, and well tafced, but they are ne- 
 ver lufcious. There is a white louie that deitroys 
 them. 
 
 THESE trees are conftantly full of fap -, burying 
 them in the ground might perhaps be of ufe to re- 
 tard their vegetation. It is as neceffary here to pro- 
 tect them from heat, as from the cold in the North of 
 Germany. Thefe trees lofe their leaves in what is 
 called the cold fcafon, that is, when it is fummer 
 with you , notwithftanding, the heat and moifturc 
 are equal to what you have in the fpring : there muft 
 thereiore be ibme latent caufe of vegetation of whicli 
 we are -ignorant. 
 
 FOREIGN trees, brought here for curiofity only, 
 are the laurel, which thrives very well j as does alfo 
 the dgaibis of various forts, the leaves of which are 
 fcolloped ; it bears bunches of flowers, white and 
 ftreaked, to which fucceed long leguminous pods. 
 The Chinefe frequently reprcfent this fhrub in their 
 landfcapes. 
 
 * In Europe the fruits of the fame tree are ripe nearly at the 
 fame time ; here 'tis quite the contrary, they grow ripe in aregu. 
 1 -:r fucceflion ; which caufes a remarkable difference in the taftr 
 pi fjaait3 gathered from one and the fame tree , 
 
 THE
 
 122 VOYAGES to tie ISLE OF FRAKCS. 
 
 THE Polcle comes from India; it's foliage is tuft- 
 ed, the leaf is in the fhape of an heart. It affords a 
 pleafant made, and anfwers no other purpofe, it's 
 fruit being fticky and good for nothing. It is in 
 the form of a medlar. 
 
 THE Bawb'-w at a diftance, looks like out willow. 
 'Ti-s a reed which grows as high as the talkfb trees, 
 and (hoots out branches, furmfhed with leaves like 
 thofc of the olive : They make the mod delightful 
 avenues, in which the wind murmurs incerTantly. It 
 grows fail, and its canes may be applied to the fame 
 ufes as the branches of ofier. There are many India 
 pictures in which this reed is badly enough reprc- 
 fehtcd. 
 
 THE fruit-trees are the Attier, whole triangular 
 flower, of a folid fubftance, taftes like the piftachia-, 
 its fruit is like a pine-apple : when it is ripe it is full 
 of a white and fweetifh cream, which fmclls 1 ke the 
 orange-flower. It is full of black kernels : the Atie * 
 is veiy pleafant, but being very heating, foon cloys, 
 and gives a pain in the ftomach to thole who eat it. 
 
 THE Mavgo is a very beautiful tree : The Indi- 
 ans often reprefent it upon their painted filks. It 
 is covered with fupcrb girandoles of flowers like the 
 Indian chefnut. To thefe fucceed a great number 
 of fruits, fhaped like a large flat plumb, covered 
 with a rind which fmells like turpentine^ This 
 fruit has a vinous and agreeable t-afle ; and x but 
 for its fmell. might vie with the bed fruits of Europe. 
 It is never prejudicial to thofe who eat it, and I 
 fhould think, a wholefome and pleafant' drin^ might 
 
 *The jitte, or Ata, is the name gi.cn by French naturalifts to 
 the fruit of the cinnamon- tree. T.
 
 VOYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRANCE. 123 
 
 be made from it. This tree has. one inconvenience 
 attending it being covered with fruit at the time 
 of the hurricanes, which ftrip it of the greater 
 part. 
 
 THE Bar/af/a-titc grows every where. It has no 
 wcod, cr flock -, being only a tuft of flowers, which 
 fpi-ing up in columns, and blow at the top in 
 lar;e and long leaves, of a beautiful fattiny green. 
 At the end of a year, there Lilies from the fummit a 
 Jong flem, all hung with fruit in the form of a cu- 
 cumber ; two of thele ftems are a load for a black ; 
 this fruit, which is mealy, is alib pleafant and very 
 nutritive. The blacks are very fond of it ; and it is 
 given to them on the firft of January, as a new year's 
 gift ; they count their years of ibrrqw by the number 
 of Banana fealts they have regaled at. Linen cloth 
 might be made of the thread of the banana-tree. The 
 
 O 
 
 fhape of the leaves like Belts of filk, the length of 
 its Item, the upper part of which hangs down from 
 the height of a man, and whofe violet-colour at the 
 end, gives it the look of a ferpent's head, may have 
 occafioned its being called by the name of Adam's 
 iig-tree. This fruit lafts all the year , there are ma- 
 ny forts of it -, from the fize of a plumb, to the 
 length of a man's arm. 
 
 o 
 
 THE Gouyava-trcs is fomething like a medlar. Its 
 flower is white, and its fruit fmells like a bug. It is 
 aftringent, and is the only fruit of this country, in 
 which IJiave found worms. 
 
 THE Jam-rofe is a tree which affords a very fine 
 made, though it does not grow high. It bears a 
 fruit of a fmell Hke a rofe-bud, and of a fweetifh, 
 but infipid tafte. 
 
 THE
 
 124 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 THE P<?p<7, is a kind of fig-tree without branches. 
 It grows fafl, and rifes like a pillar, with a capital 
 of large leaves. From its trunk flioots out a fruit 
 like a fmall melon, of an indifferent tafte : the feeds 
 tafte like crefles. The body of this tree is of a 
 jubilance like a turnep. The female Papa bears 
 flowers, only - r in form and fmell as agreeable as the 
 honeyfuckle. 
 
 THE Badavrer is of a form that feems calculated 
 purpofeiy for a (rude. It rifes like a very fine -py- 
 ramid, in different (lories, diftinct and fepara^e from 
 each other. Its foliage is very fine, and it yields 
 almonds which are > well tailed. 
 
 THE Accc'-' is a handfome tree enough. It bears 
 a pear (which cnclofes a large ilonej of a fubftance 
 like butter. When it is fealoned with fugar and cit- 
 ron juice, it is not bad to eat ; though it is heating. 
 
 THE *Jaca is a tree of a beautiful foliage, but the 
 fruit it beers is a monftrous one. 'Th as big as a 
 .laj'gc pumpkin, and, has a rind that is green, and fha- 
 greencd all over. It is full of feeds -, the outfide, 
 which is a white fkin, fweet and clammy, is good 
 to eat, but has an ugly fmell, like that of rotten 
 cheefe. This fruit is aphrodiiiac, and the women 
 here ari paiTionately fond of it. 
 
 THE Tamarind-tree has a beautiful head ; its 
 leaves are oppofed to each other on one fide, and 
 clofe at night, like moft other leguminous plants. 
 
 It's pod contains a mucilage which makes excellent 
 
 "i * j 
 lemonade. 
 
 ORANGE-TREES are of many forts, among them 
 is one yielding an orange called a mandarine. A 
 
 large
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 12^ 
 
 large kind of Pamplemouffe^ of a red colour, and 
 but middling tafte. A citron * that bears very 
 large fruit, but with little juice in it. 
 
 THE Cocoa-tree is planted here, 'tis a kind of 
 palm, which thrives in the fand : this is one of the 
 molt ufeful trees in the Indian trade, though it af- 
 fords nothing elie than a bad fort of oil, and ca- 
 bles as bad in their kind. It is reckoned at Pondi- 
 cheny that each cocoa-tree is worth a pi Hole a yean 
 Travellers fpeak much in praife of its truit -, but our 
 flax will ever be preferred to cotton, for making 
 cloth, our wines to its liquor, and our Slberds to its 
 nut. 
 
 THE Cocca-tree fiourimes fo much the beft near 
 iah-warks, that fait is always put in the hole, where- 
 in the fruit is fown, to facilitate the blowing of the 
 bud . The cocoa feems defigned to float in the 
 lea, by the wad which furrounds it, and helps to 
 bear it up, and by the hardnefs of its fhcll, impene- 
 trable to the water. It does not open by a joint, as 
 our nuts do, but the juice comes out at one of the 
 three orifices which nature has contrived at its extre- 
 mity, and has afterwards covered with a cuticle. 
 Cocoa-trees have been found upon the borders of the 
 fea in defart iQands, and even upon flioals of fand. 
 This, is the kind of palm which fringes the banks of 
 
 Cntted by the Eoglifti in the Eaft-lndies, Pompkmcfe, and 
 in the Weft-Indies, Shaddock. T. 
 
 \ In thfe parts of" the Eafl-Tndies, where fill are in plenty, a 
 quantity of the refule of them is laid about the bottom of every 
 tocua-tree. But this practice is very prejudicial to the health of the 
 inhabitants ; the ifland of Bombay was the molt unwholfome of 
 all our Iculcments, till a iloj was put to the corruption of the air 
 by this animal piurefaftion, and the natives now have rtcourfe to 
 feme Id* pdlifciioas nutiurc for their cccja tree;. T.
 
 126 VOYAGE to tie ISLE or FRANCE. 
 
 the rivers between the tropics, as the fir does thoic of 
 the north, and the date, thole of the burning moun- 
 tains of Palefcinc. 
 
 I THINK I am not deceived, in laying that the 
 cocoa is calculated to float upon the lea, and to fow 
 itfelf afterwards in thefands. Every feed has its own 
 peculiar method of propagating itfelf \ but aninveiti- 
 gation of this matter, would make me diprefs too 
 
 D O 
 
 much from the fubjecl. I may, perhaps fome day 
 or other undertake it, and when ever I do, it will be 
 with del : ght. The ftudy of Nature compenfates for 
 our difappointments in the ftudy of mankind, as we 
 cannot but trace throughout the whole, the harmony 
 with which Intelligence and Beneficence unite to ren- 
 der the fyftem compkrat. But if it were pofEble, 
 thatwefhould bedecuved even in this; if all things 
 by which mankind is furrounded, were combined to 
 diftract him , at leaft, let our errors, be errors of our 
 own choofing, and let us give the preference to thole 
 which afford confolation, rather than excite diiguil. 
 
 THOSE who imagine that Nature in raifmg fo high 
 the heavy fruit of the cocoa- tree, has loll fight of 
 that law which decrees the pumpkin to creep upon 
 the groun^, do not confidcr that the head of the 
 cocoa-tree is but fmall, arid can therefore afford but 
 little made. 'Tis under the leaves of the oak, nun 
 leek a meher. from the fun's fcorching rays. V.'hy 
 not rather obferve, that in India, as in Europe, thoie 
 trees which bear a mellow fruit are but of a middling 
 height, that in falling it may not be destroyed ; en 
 the contrary, thofe producing fruit of a hard nature, 
 as the cocoa, chefnut, acorn, and nut, are lofty, 
 their fruit being not liable to be damaged by fall- 
 ing to the ground ? Moreover, the trees that are 
 fu mimed \yith a number of leaves yield as- well in 
 
 India
 
 VOYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRANCE. 127 
 
 India as in Europe, a defirable fhelter without dan- 
 ger. There are Ibme, as for inftance, the Jaca, 
 which bear, fruits of a very great fize ; but then they 
 bear them near to the trunk, and within reach of the 
 hand : thus, Nature, which man is ever accufing of 
 imprudence, has contrived with equal bounty for his 
 Iheltcr, and his nourifhment. 
 
 A KIND of crab has been lately difcovered to bur- 
 row at the foot of the cocoa-tree. Nature has pro- 
 vided this animal with a long claw, at the end of 
 which is a nail, ierving to extract the fubftance of 
 the fruit by the holes I have defcribed. It lias nor 
 die large pincers of other crabs-, they would be ufe- 
 ku to it. This animal is found upon the Ifle of 
 1'alms, to the northward of Madagalcar, discovered 
 in i / 69, by the fhipwrcck of the Henr<.ux^ which 
 was loft there in goino; to Benral. 
 
 DO *-> 
 
 AT the ifle of Secbelie, there is juft difcovered a 
 tree bearing double cocoa-nuts, Ibme of which weigh 
 upwards of forty pounds. The Indians attribute 
 great virtues to it. They believe it to be a produc- 
 tion of the fea, becaufe the currents formerly threw 
 fome of them upon the coaii .cf Malabar, They 
 call it \.\\.z fea-cccoa. This fruit, mu/i^ris corforis bt- 
 Jurca'unem cum natura <y pi Its reprcefeniat. Its leaf, 
 ihaped like a fan, will cover half a houfe. Order is 
 obkrvable in every work of nature, the tree which 
 bears this enormous fruit, bears three or four only at 
 the mod : the common cocoa-tree bears bundles of 
 more that thirty , I have tatted both, and think their 
 flavour very much alike. They have planted the 
 lea-cocoa in the .ille of France, and it begins to bud. 
 
 7 D 
 
 THERE are flill fome other tr.es, which though cu- 
 rious, are of little or no uk-, r.s the Lat", which fel-
 
 223 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 dom bears fruit ; the Palm, which is called here the' 
 Araque ; and that which produces fago. The Cane- 
 ficier, and the Cujboe, bear flowers, but no fruit. 
 The Canellier, (of which I have feen avenues) like a 
 pear-tree in growth and leaves. Its little bunches of 
 flowers fmell like excrement. Its cinnamon has very 
 little of the aromatic. There is only one cacao-tree* 
 in the ifland ; and the fruits of this never ripen 
 They mould bring thither \hzmu(cadine and the clui-t-\ . 
 Time will decide as to the fuccefs of theie trees, 
 tranfplanted from under the Line to 20 deg. or" 
 latitude. 
 
 SOME time ago, were planted here, layers of the 
 Ravinefara, a fpecies of the mujcadine of Madagascar; 
 of the Mangoutian and the Litcbi^ which are laid to 
 produce the fined fruit in the world ; the Verms^ 
 whence is extracted an oil to preferve furniture ; the 
 tallow-wood, its feeds are impregnated with a kind of 
 wax -, a tree from China, which bears citrons in 
 bunches, like raifms -, the filver tree of the Cape ; 
 and laftly, the '/"Vry^-wood, nearly equal to the oak 
 for buiding of mips. The greater part of thefe trees 
 vegetate here with difficulty. 
 
 THE climate of this iiland feems too cold for the 
 trees of Afia, and too hot for thole of Europe. Pliny 
 obferves, that the temperament of the air is more 
 necerTary for the culture of plants, than the qualities 
 of the loil i and fays, that in his time, pepper and 
 citron-trees were leen in Italy, and incenfe- trees in 
 Lydia - y but that they merely vegitated. I am how- 
 ever of opinion, that the coffee-tree might be natu- 
 riJiied in the fouth of France, for it delights in a 
 
 * The tree of whofe fruit chocolate is made, 7*. 
 \ They nv.re bxough: in 1770.
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE of FRANCE. 129 
 
 cool and temperate air. Thefe expenfive experi- 
 ments can fcarcely be carried on by any but Prin- 
 cjs ; and yet, the acquifition of one plant unknown 
 before, is a circumftance, by which a whole nation 
 may be benefited. To what purpofe have been ail 
 the wars upon our Continent ? Of what confequence 
 is it now-a-days, that Mithridates was once conquer- 
 ed by the Romans, and Montezuma by the Spani- 
 ards ? Unlefs forne benefit accrue. Europe might 
 v/ith rcaibn, weep over her unprofitable trophies \ 
 but whole provinces in Germany fubfift upon po- 
 tatoes brought from America, and cur fair ladies 
 are indebted for the cherries they eat, to Lucullus. 
 The deicrt was indeed coftly , but for this, our 
 -fore-fathers paid. Let us be wifer, let us colled 
 ton-ether the good things which nature has fcattered 
 
 o o G 
 
 abroad, 
 
 IF labour mould ever become necefiary for my 
 health, I will make a garden after the Chinefe fa- 
 fhion ; the fituation they delight in, is on the banks 
 of a river; th^y chufe an irregular piece of 
 ground, on which are old trees, large rocks, and 
 rifing hills. They form round it a boundary of 
 rugged rocks, placed upon one another, fo that their 
 junctures cannot be perceived. Hereori grow clumps 
 of / olopendria, tendrils with blue and purple flowers, 
 and borders of mofs of different colours. A ftream of 
 water meanders among thefe vegetables, whence it 
 efcapes in cafcades. Health and enjoyment are 
 diffufed over fuch a fpot as this, while the Eu- 
 ropean's garden prefents him with no other view but; 
 that of a dreary brick-wall. 
 
 OF the hollow grounds they make pieces of 
 Water, which they flock with fifh, furround with 
 
 K banks
 
 1,30 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 .hanks of turf, and plant with trees. They are 
 particularly careful that no level fpot or ftrait 
 line fhall appear ; nur any mafonry ; How oitcn 
 does the fancied ikill of the artift, mar the iim- 
 plicity of Nature's handy work ? 
 
 THE plain is diverfifkd v/ith tufts of flowers, 
 and walks of green fed, in which fruit-tret s are 
 planted.. The fides ot the hills are variegated 
 with clumps of fhrub:;, fome bearing fruit, others 
 flowers , the furnmit is crowned \vith trees whole 
 Spreading branches afford a p leafing retreat from 
 the parching rays of the fun. 
 
 THERE are no flrait walks, difcovermg to you 
 every object at once ; but winding paths, which 
 open them 10 your view in an agreeable fucceflion. 
 Nor are their objects, ftatues, or vales, ulciefs, as 
 they are large but a vine bending under a load 
 of ripening grapes, and adorned \vidi rofe-bufhes, 
 ajid other ilowers - the mind is at the fame time 
 delighted with a fonnet or epigram upon the bark 
 of an orange-tree, or a philoiophicai maxim upon 
 a piece of broken rock. 
 
 THIS garden is not an orchard, > a park, a 
 lawn, but an agreeable affemblage of them all; 
 'tis itfelf a country, with hills, woods, and plains, 
 where each object contributes to the perfection of 
 the whole. A Chineie has no more idea of a re- 
 gular garden, than he has of cutting " a flowering 
 Ih-rub into the fquared form of a cheft of tea. 
 
 TRAVELLERS fay, that there is no leaving thefe 
 delightful retreats, but with a kind of regret ; for 
 my part, I would enhance the plea-fares of them, 
 
 by
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE, 131 
 
 by the focicty of an amiable woman, and by hav- 
 ing in my neighbourhood fuch a friend as your- 
 felf. 
 
 PoRT-Louis, July 10, 1769. 
 
 LETTER XXV. 
 
 ANIMALS brought to the Ifle of France. 
 
 SUCH pains have been taken for the improve- 
 ment of this colony, that even foreign fifties 
 have been imported to it ; the Gourami comes from 
 Batavia, 'tis a frefh-water fim, like a falmon, but of 
 a finer flavor, being reckoned the bed fim that is 
 eaten in India. The Chinefe Gddfijh is brought here, 
 but loies its beauty as it increases in bulk. Thefe 
 two fpecies breed very faft in the ponds and lakes. 
 
 IT has been attempted, but without fuccefs, to 
 bring frogs here, that they might eat the eggs which 
 the mufquito lays upon the iurface of the Handing 
 waters. 
 
 BUT a bird has been brought from the Cape, that 
 is of infinite fervice, they call it the Gardner's Friend. 
 It is brown, the fize of a large iparrow, and lives 
 upon worms, mails, and fmall ferpents, which it not 
 only eats when preflcd by hunger, but makes an 
 
 K 2 ample
 
 132 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 ample (lore of, by flicking them upon the prickles 
 of the hedges. I have feen but one of them, which, 
 though deprived of its liberty, retained the manners 
 of its kind, and fufpended the meat which was given 
 it, upon the wires of its cage* 
 
 A BIRD that has multiplied very faft in the ifland. 
 is the martin^ a fpecies of the Indian fttnjonnet *, wiih 
 a yellow beak and claws. It differs but little from 
 ours, except in plumage, which is lets fpotted. In 
 chirping, however, as well as in an aptitude to talk, 
 and to mimic other birds, it perfectly refembles the 
 European. It will perch upon, and peck at beafts 
 without fear, but the prey it purfues with an unwea- 
 ried perfeverance, is the grafshopper, numbers of 
 which fpecies are deftroyed by it. The martins al- 
 ways fly in pairs, and afiemble conflantly at fun-fet 
 in flocks of fome thoufands. After a general chirp- 
 ing, the whole republic fall afleep,*and at day break, 
 again dilperle by pairs to the different quarters of the 
 ifland. This bird is not fit to eat j yet they arc 
 fometimes mot, though mooting them is prohibited. 
 Plutarch relates, that the lark was adored at Lem- 
 nos, beCaufe it eat and deftroyed the grafshoppers- 
 eggs : but we are not Grecians. 
 
 SEVERAL pairs of ravens were let loofe in the 
 woods to deftroy the rats and mice. Three cocks 
 are all that are left of them. The people accufed 
 them of killing their fowls, and herein were at 
 once accufers, judges and executioners. 
 
 THE ravages of the Cape bird cannot be denied, 
 *tis a fpecies of fmall tann-\- y and is the only inhabitant 
 
 ' * Called by fome the Starling, by Others the Fijkin. T. 
 
 f- A kind of lark, 'tis a bird well known in France* and ad- 
 mired for its fong and aptitude to talk. 7*. 
 
 of
 
 VOYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRANCE. 133 
 
 of thefe forefts that is heard to fmg. They were 
 brought here firft as curiofities, but fome of them 
 cicaped to the woods, where they breed very faft, 
 and live upon the fpoils of the harveft. Govern- 
 ment gives a reward to any body that kills one. 
 
 THERE is a beautiful titmoufe here, with a num- 
 ber of white fpecks on the wings , and the cardinal 
 whofe head, neck, and belly, at a particular feafon, 
 are of a lively red ; the reft of its plumage is of a 
 pearl-coloured grey. This bird comes from Bengal. 
 
 THERE are three forts of partridges, all fmaller 
 than ours. The cry of the male refembles that of 
 a cock when hoarfe ; they rooft at night upon the 
 trees, for fear of the rats. 
 
 THEY have put in the woods fome -pmtadces *, 
 and Chinefe pheafants, and into the lakes fome geefe 
 and wild ducks *: They have alfo tame ducks here, 
 efpecially the Manilla ones, which are very beau- 
 tiful ; and European barn-door fowls , a fpecies of 
 fowl from Africa, whofe flefh and bone are black ; 
 a fmall fpecies of fowl from China, the cocks of 
 which are very fierce and bold, and for ever a 
 fighting with the Indian cocks. I faw one of them 
 attack a large Manilla duck, which feized the lit- 
 tle champion with its beak, and fmothered it with 
 its belly and claws : and although the cock is fome- 
 times drawn half dead from this perilous fituation, 
 it will return to the charge with redoubled fury. 
 
 MANY people make a great deal of money of their 
 poultry, on account of the fcarcity of other provifi- 
 
 * So called by the Spaniards, from the beauty of its plumage, 
 which feems as if painted. Jt is believed by fome to be thcStorm 
 Bud, or Proc.tlla.ria Caf(njjs t 1 7'. 
 
 K 3 ons.
 
 134 V OY A G E to the ISLE OF FRANCS. 
 
 ons. Pigeons fucceed well, and are the befl birds 
 of flight in the ifland. They have alfo brought two 
 fpecies of turtles, and of hares. 
 
 THERE are in the woods wild goats, wild hogs, 
 and efpecially flags, which had multiplied to fuch 
 a degree, that whole fquadrons were fupplied with 
 veniibn tor provifions. Their flefli is very good, 
 efpecially during the months of April, May, June, 
 July and Auguit. Some of them have been taken 
 when young, and brought up tame ; but they will 
 not breed in that ftate. 
 
 AMONG thofe that we may call the domeftic 
 quadrupeds, are fheep that fatten and lofe their 
 wool, goats that thrive prodigioufly, and oxen of 
 the Madagafcar breed, that have a great wen up- 
 on their neck ; the cows of this breed give but 
 very little milk , thofe from Europe give much 
 more, but their calves degenerate. , I faw once, 
 two cows and two bulls from Bengal, which were 
 no bigger than an afs. This breed did not fuc- 
 ceed. 
 
 BUTCHERS meat is fometimes not to be got. 
 Pork is the fubftitute on thefe occafions, and is 
 better than our's in Europe ; notwithstanding which, 
 it will not fait to keep, on account of the fall's 
 being too fharp or acid. The female of this ani- 
 mal, is fubje6t in this iiland to bring forth mon- 
 ftejs. I was once lliewn a little pig, preferved in 
 fpirits, the fnout of which was produced in the 
 manner of an elephant's trunk. 
 
 HORSES are very dear, and by no means fine 
 pnes. A common horfe cannot be bought for lefs 
 than a hundred piftoles. They fall to decay very 
 
 foon
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 135 
 
 loon at the Port, from the exceflive heat. They 
 never are mod, though the ifland is fo rocky. 
 Mules are rarely feen. The afies are fmall, and but 
 few in number. The afs would be a truly ufeful 
 animal in this country, as it would lighten the fevere 
 labours of the poor negroes. Every load, how 
 heavy foever, is carried on the heads of the flaves. 
 
 A SHORT time fmce, two beautiful wild afies were 
 brought from the Cape, a male and female,-- -they 
 were of the fize of a mule, and flriped on the 
 moulders like the zebra, from which, however, 
 they differed in other refpecls. Thefe animals, 
 though young, were not to be tamed. 
 
 THE breed of cats degenerates greatly on this 
 ifland, they grow lean and thin flanked. The rats 
 fcarcely fear them, the dogs are therefore the rat- 
 catchers, and my Favorite has often diftinguifhed 
 himfelf in this fervice. I have feen him flrangle the 
 largeft rat of the fouthern hemifphere. The dogs 
 at the long run, lofe their hair and their fenfe of 
 fmelling ; but it is faid that they never go mad here. 
 
 PoRT-Louis, July 15, 1769. 
 
 K 4 LET-
 
 136 VOYAGE to'tbe'lsLE OF FRANCE; 
 
 L E T T E R XVI. 
 
 TOUR THROUGH THE ISLAND. 
 
 MONSIEUR de Chazal, Councillor, and M lc 
 Marquis d'Albergaty, both of them fond of 
 Natural Hiftory, propofed to me ibme time fmce, to 
 go and fee a famous cavern about a league and a half 
 from hence. We embarked upon the Great River, 
 which, like the other rivers of this iftand, is not na- 
 vigable for floops, above a mufquet mot from its 
 mouth. A fmail fettkment is eftablifhed, there con- 
 fifting of an hoipital and. a few itorehoufes ; and 
 here alfo- begins the aquasduct that fupplies the town 
 with water. Upon a little height, in the form of a 
 fugar-loaf,. there is a kind, of fort to defend the bay. 
 
 AFTER crofilng the Great-River, we took a guide, 
 and walked through the woods weftward, for near 
 three quarters of an hour. It was not long before we 
 came to the entrance of the cavern, which Teemed like 
 the hole of a cave, the vault of which had fallen in. 
 Many roots of the MHPOU grow perpendicularly down 
 it, and barr up a part of the entrance. The head of 
 an ox was nailed in the center. 
 
 WE breakfailed before we defcended this abyfs. 
 After which, .we- lit flambeaux and candles, and fur- 
 niihed ourielvcs with tinder-boxes to ftrike fire, if 
 necefTary. 
 
 WE
 
 VOYAGE, to the ISLE OF FRANCE, 137 
 
 WE went about a dozen paces down the rocks 
 at the mouth of it, and then found ourfelves in a 
 vaft, and far more fpacious cave than I had ever 
 jeen before. 
 
 ITS vault is formed of a black rock. 
 
 ITS width was about thirty-feet, and its heighth, 
 twenty. 
 
 THE foil is very compact and adhelive, and is 
 covered with a fine earth. 
 
 ALONG each fide of the cavern, about breaft-high, 
 extends a large fillet with mouldings, which I fup- 
 pofe 1 to be the work of the waters, which flow 
 down in the rainy feafon, of different heights , 
 the land, as well as river Ihells that we faw here, 
 confirm this conjecture. Yet the country people 
 fancy it to be the ancient crater of the volcano. It 
 rather appeared to me as having been the bed of 
 fome fubterranean river. 
 
 THE vaulted roof is covered with a fort of dry 
 mining varnim, or ftony concretion, which extends 
 itfeif to the fides, and in fome places, even to the 
 floor of the cave, and forms thereon ferruginous fta- 
 lactites, which broke and crackled under our feet, 
 as if we had been walking upon frozen mow. 
 
 WE walked on for fome time, and found the foil 
 perfectly dry, except at about three hundred paces 
 from the entrance, where a part of the roof is 
 mouldered away. The water had oozed through 
 in this place, and had fettled in different parts of the 
 ground beneath. 
 
 FROM
 
 138 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 R OM thence the roof gradually lowered, 'till we 
 were at length obliged to go upon our hands and 
 knees ; being almoit (tifled with heat, I would go 
 no further. My companions being more curious, 
 more active, and in a proper delhabille, continued 
 their route. 
 
 As I returned, I difcovered a plant about the fize 
 of my finger, which hung to the roof by very fmall 
 jilaments. It was more than ten feet long, had nei- 
 ther branches nor leaves, nor did it appear to have 
 ever had either. It was unbroken at both ends, and 
 was filled with a kind of milky juice, 
 
 I returned to the entrance of the grotto, and fat 
 down to breathe the freih air, and in a little time 
 fteard an inarticulate nolle, and then, by the light of 
 the flambeaux the Negroes carried, law my fellow- 
 travellers returning in their caps, nihnzs, and drawers, 
 Ib dirty and' fo red, that they looked like fo many 
 actors in an Englifh tragedy. They were bathed in 
 iweat, and all befmeared with this red earth, over 
 which they had crawled upon their bellies, without 
 being able to go- much farther than I had done. 
 
 THIS cavern chokes and fills up daily. Methinks,. 
 magnificent ftore-houfes might be conftrucled, by 
 snaking partition-walls to keep out the water, 
 
 WE returned home that evening, This excurfion 
 made me defirous of another. I had been invited on 
 my firit arrival by Monfiteur de MefTin, who lives 
 about feven leagues from Port-Louis, upon the 
 Black-River, to fpend fome days at his houfc. As 
 his pirogue came every week to Port-Louis, I took 
 the opportunity of going in her on her return. The 
 
 perogue
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 139 
 
 pirogue is a kind of boat cut out of a fmgle piece of 
 wood, and goes either with oars or fails, 
 
 WE embarked at midnight, and in about half an 
 hour rowed out of the harbour. The fea ran high, 
 and darned with great violence upon the breakers, 
 over which we were feveral times driven by the 
 furf, without knowing it. The night being very 
 dark, the mailer told me he would land, as he 
 thought it dangerous to proceed till day-light. 
 
 WE had gone, I fuppofe, about a league and a 
 half -, the blacks carried me to more on their 
 moulders ; after which they took two pieces of 
 wood, one of veloutier, the other of barxbou, and 
 kindled a light by rubbing them together. This 
 practice is very ancient -, Pliny tells us, it was in 
 ufe among the Romans, and that nothing is fo fit 
 for the purpofe of ftriking fire, as a piece of ivy-woo4 
 rubbed againft the laurel. 
 
 OUR people feated themfelves round the fire, 
 fmoaking their pipes, which are a kind of crucible 
 at the end of a long reed, and which they hand round 
 as they fit. I gave them fome Eau-de-Vie, then 
 wrapping myfelf in my cloak, went to fleep on the 
 fand. 
 
 AT five o'clock they called me to go on board 
 again. The day breaking, I faw the tops of the 
 mountains covered with thick clouds, which blew 
 along at a great rate ; the weather was hazy, and 
 the wind drove the fog along the vallies ; the main 
 fea grew white with foam, and the pirogue, carrying 
 both her fails, made a great way. 
 
 WHEN
 
 I 4 o VOYAGE to the ISLF OF FRANCE. 
 
 WHEN we were at that part of the coaft called 
 ficr]-en-ji^cq j about a league and a half from land, 
 we, found a prodigious ihort and broken fea, with 
 fqualls of wind, fo violent as to oblige us to down 
 both our fails. The matter faid to me in hi; Patois 
 jargon, " ('a tfctt pas bon y Monfie." I aiked him, if 
 there was any danger, he aniwered me twice, " Si 
 uous rfa pas %a..iv mutlx. r, fa j'-<w." In ihort. he told 
 rae, that a fortnight before, the pirogue had overies, 
 
 and drowned one of his comrades 
 s 
 
 IT was a lee-more, and fo covered with roeks, 
 that there was no pofiibility of landing ; and had we 
 pafled the iiland, we could not have made it again 
 without the utmofl difficulty. x\s we could nat 
 .carry fail* the men took to their can. The iky 
 grew more and more louring, which made it necef- 
 iary to haften as much as pofiibie. The men hav- 
 jno- drank fome eau-de-vie, pulled ftoutly, and by 
 dint of arms, and at the riik of being twer.tv 
 times overfet, we once more got into tolerable fmooth 
 water* and coafted along between the more and the 
 .tweakers.. 
 
 the ftorm, the blacks were as eafy and 
 unconcerned as if they had been 'fate on more. 
 Their belief in Predeftination, and their indifference 
 for life, gives them a tranquillity, which all our boaft- 
 -ed philoibphy can never attain, to. 
 
 I LANDED about nine in the morning at the mouth 
 of the Great-River : M. de Meffm was agreeably 
 'furprized at the arrival of his pirogue, which he did 
 not exped that day, and received me with the utmolt 
 cordtaiity. His eftate includes all the valley through 
 which the river flows. It is imperfectly defcribed 
 in the chart drawn by the Abbe de le Caille -, 
 he has omitted a branch of the mountain > on the 
 
 right-
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 right-hand fhore, which extends towards the pro- 
 montory du Tamv.r. Moreover, the courfe of die 
 river is not ib ftrait as he reprefents it, for at a fhort 
 league's diftance from tlie mouth, it turns to the left 
 hand. This learned ailronomer having riven us a 
 
 #Jr 
 
 <ielcription of the out-line only of the ifland, I pro- 
 pofe to make additions to his plan*, according as the 
 information I procure in thele excurilons may furnifh 
 me with opportunity. 
 
 THERE is great plenty of every thing at Black- 
 .River-, of game, venifon, and both freih-water and 
 iea-fiih. While we were at dinner one day, a fervanr 
 came to tell us that iome lament 'ins -j- were ieen in the 
 bay, we ran down immediately , they caft nets a-crcis 
 the entrance, and v/hen drawn a-fnore, we found a 
 great quantity of the fword-fifh, of fkait, two fea- 
 turtles, and other kinds of fiih j but the lamentins 
 were eicaped. 
 
 TH utmoft regularity and good order is obferved 
 in this, as in every other plantation I have been at. 
 The negroes cabbins are ranged in lines, like tents in 
 >a camp. Each man has a imall piece of ground al- 
 lotted him for growing tobacco and gourds , flocks, 
 and poultry, are bred in great numbers upon thefe 
 plantations. The harveils are plentiful, but receive 
 great damage from the fwarms of grafshoppers. 
 
 The convenience of commodities from thence to 
 the town, is inconvenient and hazardous, it being 
 impofllble for a carriage of any burden to get along 
 by land, the roads are fo bad ; and the wind being 
 in general contrary on the voyage from thence to the 
 Port. 
 
 f A kind of fea-cow. 
 * I wiih the author ha.i fufiulhed us with this plan. 5^ 
 
 AFT-Si
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 AFTER a ftay of a few days, I determined to return 1 
 to town by a tour over the plains de Vi.liams for 
 this purpole my hoft furnilhed me with a guide, and 
 a pair of piftols, left I mould meet with any of the 
 * Maron Negroes. 
 
 I fet out at two in the afternoon for Palma, the 
 plantation of M. de Cofligni, about three leagues off; 
 where I propofed to lay that night : there being none 
 but foot-paths over the rocks, I was obliged to walk. 
 When I had gone over the mountains of Black-River, 
 I found mvfelf in a vaft foreft, through which a nar- 
 row path only is grubbed up, and which paffes clofc 
 by a lonely houfe, the folitary retreat of a man, who 
 in France had fquandered a confiderabie fortune, and 
 who now drags on a wretched and mikrable life in 
 this gloomy deiart, without property ; the land round 
 his houfe not being his own, and without fociety, 
 except that of a few negroes, his (laves. As 1 palled, 
 he was fitting at his door, in his Ihirt and drawers 
 only, with his legs naked and his fleeves tucked up, 
 diverting himfelf with rubbing a monkey with the 
 juice of red mulberries, himielf being all over fmear- 
 ed therewith. 
 
 * The Dutch who came here in the year 1638, upon forming 
 a -fettlement, found themielves in want of flaves, for the cuJtiva- 
 tion of their lands, and applied to the French, who were fettled 
 on the ifland of Madagr.fcar, to fupply them with fome of the na- 
 tives from thence for this purpofe. The French complied, and 
 fold them fifty, whom they had taken by force from among the 
 inhabitants, 'i hefe, exafperated at the outrage, attacked, arid 
 
 maflacrcd the invaders. The poor people who had been lent in 
 
 the Mauritius, fled from their fervitude to the woods, from whence 
 they made fucli continual incurfions upon their former matters, 
 that at kngih they determined to quit the place, rather :han be 
 fubjeft to the dangers which coiiitahtly attended them. The 
 flaves were now the fole refiants ; fuch of their progeny as efcaped 
 the vigilance of Monfifurdela Bourdonnais, are the Maron ne- 
 groes, mentioned by the author. T. 
 
 FROM
 
 VOYAGE to the ISI.E or FRANCE. 143. 
 
 FROM thence, about half an hour's walk brought 
 me to the fide of tamarind-river, whofe waters 
 flowed with a loud noife over a bed of rocks. My 
 black found a ford, and carried me over upon his 
 moulders. 1 law lr :";.; :v me the mountain of thni: 
 paps, which role to a very great height, and on the 
 other fide was the plantation of Palma.. My guide 
 periuadcd me to go along the fide of this mountain, 
 ;:iiuring me that "we could not fail oi: finding die path 
 that led to the top. We got mute round it, after 
 having walked above an hour : but feeing the man 
 was at a lofs, I returned immediately, and again 
 reached the foot of the mountain, berore the iiui w-us 
 let. I was much fatigued, and very thirlly, and co-ukl 
 I have got water, would have paffed the night there, 
 But I determined otherwiie, and although there was 
 no fio-n of a path, bejjan to aicend the mountain thro" 
 
 O J- 4 7 O 
 
 the woods, being fometirnes forced to clamber ovrr 
 huge rocks, or to drag myleif along by the trees, 
 and at others, being fupporced by my black fervaiit, 
 who came after me. I had not walked half an hour, 
 before night came 0n, and was then without guide, 
 except the iteepnefs of the mountain. Not a breath 
 of wind was ihrring, the air was intenfeiy hot, and 
 ready to faint with heat, fatigue, and tliiril, I lay 
 down feveral times, determining to ftay all nig.hr 
 where I was. At length, after an infinite deal of 
 trouble, I perceived that 1 afcended no longer. Soon, 
 afcr, a breeze from the fouth-eaft reffefhed me ex- 
 ceedingly, and the. appearance of fomc lights at & 
 diftance, afforded me an additional comfort. The 
 fide I had quitted was inveloped in total tlarknefs, 
 
 I NOW ^cgan to defcend, and frequently fliddovm 
 Upon my back, without being able to prevent it. 
 The noiie of a rivulet was. my only guide, and I at. 
 length reached it> very much bruifcd. Although in a 
 
 violent
 
 144 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 violent perfpiration, I drank heartily, and having, 
 felt herbage under my hand, had the additional good 
 fortune to find fome water-creffes, of which I ate 
 feveral handfuls. I continued to approach the fire 
 I faw before me, carrying my piitols ready cocked 
 in my hand, fearing I might firfd an aflfcmbly of 
 Maron negroes > but it proved to be a part of the 
 wood that was lately cleared, in which there were 
 feveral trunks of trees iti 11 burning. Nobody was 
 near. I halloo'd, and liftened, in hopes at iaft to 
 hear the barking of a dog, but in vain, no other 
 
 f O * * 
 
 founds were to be heard, than the diftant murmurs of 
 the brook, and the whittling of the wind among the 
 trees. 
 
 My black arid my guide kindled fome brands, by 
 the light of which we walked over the afhes of this 
 burning wood, towards another fire a little farther. 
 Here we found three negroes watching fome flocks, 
 
 ^J ^J 7 
 
 that belonged to a neighbour of M. de Ccfficrni. 
 One of them conduced me to Palma. It was now 
 midnight, and every body was fait afleep. A negrce, 
 whom our noife had awakened^ informed me that his 
 mailer was abroad ; he, however offered me all the 
 accommodation the houfe aifcrded. I rofe early in 
 the morning, intending to go to Mr. Jacob's, who 
 lived about two leagues off upon the high grounds of 
 Williams-plains ; a fine broad road being cleared all 
 the way to his houfe, I foon arrived there, and \\ Y.S 
 received wkh his ufuai hofpitality. 
 
 THE air is fo much colder here than at the Port, 
 and the place I had juil left, that I found the fire- 
 fide" the beft fituation towards evening. This part 
 is the beft cultivated of any in the whole ifland, 
 and is watered by feveral rivulets, fome of which, 
 eipecially one they call the deep-river, runs in beds 
 
 of
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 145 
 
 of a depth frightful to look down. The road from 
 hence to town running clofe by the fide of this ri- 
 ver, on my return I obferved it particularly, and 
 fuppofe I could not be lefs than three hundred feet 
 above its channel. The fides are covered by five or 
 fix ftories of very large trees, rifmg one above ano- 
 ther , a fight which gave me a violent fwimming in 
 my head. 
 
 As I came nearer to the town, I perceived the 
 "heat of the air increafe, and the herbage infenfibly 
 4ofe its verdure, till I reached the Port, where every 
 'thing is dry and barren. 
 
 PORT Louis* Augttft 15, 17 
 
 LET;
 
 146 VOYAGE to tie ISL^E OF FRANCS, 
 
 LETTER XVII. 
 
 JOURNEY ON FOOT OVER THE ISLAND, 
 
 AN Officer had propofed to me a tour round 
 the ifland on foot, but juft before we were- 
 to have fet out, ; excufed himielf from going,: I 
 therefore determined to go alone. 
 
 I KXEW I might depend upon Cot e r one of the 
 King's blacks, who had accompanied me before \- 
 he was little, but he was very ftrong, of approved 
 idelity, fober,, of few words, and fearlefs of dan- 
 ger. 
 
 bought a fkve a little time before, and 
 called him by your name, hoping it would be an 
 omen in his favour. He could not fpeak French, 
 nor was his conftitution healthy ; but he was well 
 made,, and of a very decent appearance. 
 
 I TOOK my dog with me by way of guard in 
 the night, and to look out for game in the 
 <lay time. 
 
 KNOWING that I mould be very often alone, and 
 that thefe woods were without inns, I provided 
 every thing which I thought might be necefTary for 
 myfelf or my people. My baggage weighed two 
 hunared pounds, and confifted of a kettle, fome 
 plates, a quantity of rice, bifcuit, maize, a dozen 
 
 of
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE of FRANCE. 147 
 
 of wine, fix bottles of eau-de-vie, fome butter, fu- 
 gar, citrons, fait, tobacco, a fmall hammock, linen, 
 a plan of the iiland, fome books, a fabre, and a 
 cloak. 
 
 I DIVIDED the whole into four packs, two of fixty 
 pounds, and two of forty ^ and got them tied to the 
 ends of two very ftrong reeds. Cote took the heavieft, 
 and Duval the other. I, for my part, was in my 
 Waiftcoat, and carried a double-barrelled gun, a pair 
 of piftols in my pocket, and my couteau de chafle. 
 
 I DETERMINED to begin my courfe on the leeward- 
 fide of the iQand, propofmg to keep conftantly clofe 
 to the more, that I might form a judgment of its 
 defence, and to make obfervations upon any objects 
 of natural hiftory which might prefent themielves. 
 
 M. de Chazal offered to accompany me as far as 
 His eftatCj fituated five leagues from the town, in the 
 plains of Saint Peter , and M. le Marquis d'Albergati, 
 agreed to do the like. 
 
 WE fet out early in the morning of the 26th of 
 Auguft, and went all the way along more. From 
 Fort-Blanc, to the left of the Port, the fea wafhes a 
 fandy ftrand, that is not at all fteep, 'till it gets to 
 the point of a plain, on which Paulm battery is raif- 
 ed j though this more is level, a defcent would be 
 impracticable, on account of a long bank of rocks, 
 which run along more at two mufquet-fhots diftance, 
 and forms a natural defence. From this place the 
 more becomes fteep, and the fea runs fo high, that it 
 would be impoffible to land hereabouts , and it would 
 be equally impoffible for cavalry or artillery to make 
 good their landing upon the plain, becaufe of th^ 
 rocks with which it is covered all over. There are 
 
 L 2 no
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE ot 
 
 no trees, except a few mapous and veloi/tiers. The 
 fhore is no longer deep at little-river bay, where there 
 is a fmall battery. 
 
 HERE we dined with M. de Seligny, a man of fin- 
 gular merit. He fhewed Us the plan of a machine, 
 by which he cut a canal to the Neptune, a fhip that 
 was run a-ground here in the hurricane in 1760. 
 They were two iron rakes, put in motion by two 
 large wheels that were fupported upon barges -, and 
 whofe effjcl: was increafed by levers, again iupported' 
 by rafts. 
 
 WE faw alfo a cotton- rhill of his invention^ which 
 was worked by water. It was formed of a number 
 of fmall metal cylinders, in a parallel pofition to each 
 other; Children are taught to hold the cotton to two 
 of thefe cylinders, the cotton pafTes and the feed re- 
 mains; This fame mill anfwered the purpdfe of a 
 pair of bellows to a forge, to grind meal, and to 
 make oil, He informed us, that he had difcovered 
 a vein of coal, fome iron ore of an earth very pro 
 per for making crucibles, and that the cinders, which 
 are called nywphej, burnt with coal, produced glaf- 
 fes of a variety of colours. In the afternoon we took 
 leave of this ufcful and unrequited member of fo- 
 ciety; 
 
 WE took a path which was about a mufquet-mot 
 from the more, and having forded the river Bedcjle^ 
 whole mouth is very narrow, after walking about a 
 quarter of a league we entered a wood, which leads 
 to M, de Chazal's houfe* This eftate, which is called 
 St. Peter's- Plains ^ is ftill more rocky, than the reft of 
 the way. In many places, the negroes were obliged 
 to lay down their burdens, and to aflift us to clamber; 
 When we were within half an hour's walk of our 
 
 journey's
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 149 
 
 journey's end, Duvaf, being no longer able to ftand 
 under his load, was obliged to lay it down. We 
 were much perplexed by this accident ; for night 
 was coming on, and the other negroes were gone be- 
 fore. How was he to be rbunci rgain if we left him 
 in thefe woods ? I ftryck a light with the lock of my 
 gun, and kindled a fire with fome ilraw and dry flicks ; 
 after which we left Duval there, and when we got 
 home, we fent fome blacks to feek for him, and bring 
 his packs. 
 
 THE more is very fleep and craggy between the 
 Link-River and St. Peter's- Plains. My companions 
 found among the rock the purple-fifh of Panama, 
 and a variety of other mell-filh. 
 
 Auguft 2 7 ? we re/led the whole day. This ftony 
 foil is well enough adapted to the culture of cotton,, 
 the thread of which is but fhort. The coffee that 
 grows here is of a good quality, but yields very 
 little, as ufual in dry places, 
 
 We fet put at 8 o'clock in the morning, 
 and in "the courfe of our journey forded the rivers 
 Dragon and Galet^ at the laft of which the more 
 ceafes to be fteep ; and we had from thence the 
 pleafure of walking upon a f)ne fand by the fear- 
 fide, along a large plain, which leads as far as the 
 bay of Tamannds. It may be about a quarter of a 
 league broad, .and more than a league lo,ng. No- 
 thing grows upon it : but I think cocoa-trees might 
 be planted to advantage, as they thrive in a fandy 
 foil. To the right, there is a ftream of bad water, 
 running the length of the whole wood. 
 
 In fome parts, which the fea has left dry, we 
 found fome fofil madrepores, which prove that the 
 
 fea
 
 150 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 fea once warned over this fhore. We dined upon 
 the right-fide of Tamarind-bay, and then my com- 
 panions left me, and returned back. 
 
 FROM Black-River, I had but a mort league to 
 M. Meflm's, and therefore refolved to ileep there 
 that night. I forded the bay of Tamarinds, an4 
 from thence kept along the more with more diffi- 
 culty and fatigue than 1 expected : being very deep 
 and craggy all the way 'till we got to Black-River. 
 Among thefe rocks I found many forts of era 1 s^ 
 and the fame kind of loudins that I have fpoken 
 of before. 
 
 The bottom of this bay is a fand, and a land- 
 ing might be effected here, if the fituation at the 
 entrance did not fubject thofe who attempted it to 
 a crofs-nring. A battery at the point of the fand s 
 on the right more of the Black-River, would be 
 of great lervice. 
 
 THE 29th and goth, at low water J continued 
 my walk along the more : I found the great cencb* 
 and a ftfh called the faux-amiral^ 
 
 THE 3 1 ft, I fet off at fix this morning, and 
 parTed the Black-River at a ford, near the houfe j 
 after this, attempting to cut a-crofs a kind of 
 ifland covered with wood and ftones, I bewildered 
 myfelf in the grals, and had fome difficulty to find 
 the path agairi , at laft, however, I did, and it 
 brought me to the fea-lide again. All along this 
 fhore the oyftcrs ftick to the rocks in great numbers : 
 "jb#t'<2/, my new fcrvant, in walking a-crofs one of 
 the mouths of the Black-River, got a very deep cut 
 in his foot, by one of their mells. We made a halt 
 about eight o'clock in the morning, and I gave him 
 
 fome
 
 V O Y A G E to the ISLE & FRANCE. x 5 1 
 
 fome -eau-de-vie for C8te and himfelf to drink, and to 
 bathe his wound. AS they were heavily laden, I 
 thought it proper to make two halts in a day, to 
 confine my walks to the morning and evening, and 
 to give them all the refreshment I could. This little 
 indulgence gave them ftrength and fpirits,- -they 
 would have followed me to the end of the world,. 
 
 BETWEEN the two mouths of the BJack-Riy-er,, a 
 ilag, purfued by hounds and hunters, came {trait to- 
 wards me. The poor beaft wept and panted : as I 
 could not fave it, and was unwilling to kill it, I fired 
 one of my charges in the air. He then took to the 
 water, and was overtaken and killed by the dogs. 
 Pliny obferves, that this animal, when prefled by the 
 .hounds, will fly for protection to a man. I Hopped 
 at the firft rivulet I came to, after having pafiecl the 
 Black-River ; it runs into the fea oppofite to a little 
 ifland, called Tamarina's-rjle, which is not defcribed 
 upon the chart , one may get to it on foot at low 
 water, as alfo to the little ifland, called Morne^ where 
 yeflels fometirnes perform quarantine. 
 
 I HAD every thing neceflary for dinner, but fome- 
 thing to eat. Seeing a pirogue of a Malabar fimer- 
 man pafs along the coaft, I afked them if they had 
 any fifh on board ; they fent me a very fine mullet, 
 .but would not let me pay any thing for it. I made 
 my kitchen at the foot of a tatamaque-trce; I lit a fire, 
 while one of my negroes went in fearch of wood, and 
 the other of water, that where I was being brackifh. 
 I made a hearty dinner of the fifh, upon which I alfo 
 regaled my fervants, 
 
 I OBSERVED fpme pieces of the rocks to be ferru- 
 ginous, and abounding in ore. There is a ridge 
 of rocks, extending from the ^lack-River, as far as 
 
 the
 
 152 VOYAGfe to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 the promontory of Brabant, which is the moft lee- 
 ward point of the ifland. There is but one place to 
 land at behind the little ifland, called Tamarind's- 
 ifland. 
 
 AT two in t;he afternoon I fet out again, but walk- 
 ed with more circumfpeftion than before. I had now 
 twenty leagues to go through a defart part of the 
 ifland, where there are^ no more than two inhabitants, 
 except the Maron negroes, who harbour thereabouts. 
 J ordered my men to keep clofe ; and my dog, who 
 ufed always . to run before, now kept very near 
 me, and at the leaft noife pricked up his- ears and! 
 flopped : he fee'med fenfible that we were not' among 
 men. Thus we continued our walk in good order, . 
 following the more, which forms an infinite number, 
 of fmall bays. To .the left we had the woods, where 
 the 'moft profound folitude "reigns. Behind thefe, 
 funs a tracl: of hills, the tops only of which we could 
 fee ; the foil here is but poor, notwithstanding which, 
 by the '-polchers, a fpecies of tree, brought from India, 
 and fome other figns, it was evident that a fettlement; 
 had been attempted. I had the precaution to take 
 fbme bottles of water with me, and 'twas well I did 
 fo, for the rivulets marked in the plan, were entirely 
 dried up. 
 
 THE continual bleeding of my negro's wound, 
 made me very uneafy : I walked very flowly, and 
 at four o'clock made another halt. As night ap- 
 proached, I would not .attempt to go round the 
 promontory, but cut a-crofs the wood, over the 
 ifthmus which joins it to the other mountains. This 
 iflhmus is a hill of a middling height. Upon this 
 eminence I met a black belonging, to M. le Nor- 
 mand, whofe houfe I was going to, and from which 
 I was not above a quarter of a league. This man 
 
 , went
 
 VOYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRANCE. 153 
 
 went on before, while I flopped, and looked with 
 delight upon the profpc<5t of the two feas. A houfe 
 built here would be in a charming fituation, if any 
 freth water were 'near. As I deicended the hill, a 
 black came and brought me a jug of water, and 
 told me, that I was' impatiently expected at the 
 houfe. I got there. It was a long building of pal- 
 lifadoes, covered with the leaves- of the latanier. 
 Eight negroes belonged to the plantation, and there 
 were nine perfons in family ; the mafter, the miftrels, 
 five children, a young lady related to the family, and 
 a friend. The mafter was abroad : all this I learnt 
 from the negro as I went along, 
 
 ^ c/ 
 
 THERE was but one large room, and of this the 
 whole houfe confifted ; in the middle was the kit- 
 chen ; at one end, they kept their ftores, and 'iere 
 alfo lay the fervants , at the other was the bed where 
 lay the mafter and his wife , it was covered with a 
 cloth by way of tefter, upon which was a hen fit- 
 ting upon eggs , under the bed were fome ducks ; 
 pigeons harboured among the leaves of the roof j 
 and at the door were three great dogs. 
 
 ALL the implements both of the hufbandry and 
 houfewifery were hung up againft the walls. What 
 was my furprife at finding the miftrefs of this wretch- 
 ed dwelling, to be a very handfome genteel woman. 
 Both me and her hufband were of good families in 
 France. They had come here feveral years fmce, 
 to feek their fortune ; and had quitted their rela- 
 tions, their friends, and their country, to pafs their 
 days in this defart, where nothing is to be feen 
 but the fea, and the frightful cliffs of the promon- 
 tory of Brabant ; but the air of contentment and 
 good-nature about this young mother of a family, 
 Jeemed to make every body happy who came near 
 
 her.
 
 154 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 her. She gave fuck to her youngeft child, while 
 the four others flood round her, playful and con- 
 tented. 
 
 SUPPER time being come, every thing the houfc 
 afforded was ferved up with the utmoft propriety. 
 This meal appeared a very agreeable one to me. 
 I could not help being flruck with the fight of 
 the pigeons fluttering about the table, the goat- 
 kids and the children at play together, and fuch 
 a variety of animals in perfect agreement with this 
 amiable family, and with each other. Their peace- 
 ful fports, the folitude of ,the place, the murmur- 
 ing noife of the fea, all combined to prefent to my 
 imagination, a picture of thofe times when the chil- 
 dren of Noah, defcended upon a new earth, began 
 afrefh to partake of the domeftic enjoyments they 
 had fo long been ftrangers to. 
 
 AFTER fupper, I was {hewn to my lodging-room , 
 which wa.s a little hut, newly built of wood, at a- 
 bout two hundred paces from the houfe. The 
 door was not yet put up -, but I clofed the open- 
 ing with the boards of which it was made. I laid 
 my arms in readinefs, the Maron negroes being 
 very numerous in this part. A few years ago, a- 
 bout forty of them, retired to the promontory, and 
 began to make plantations. An attempt was made 
 to take them j but fooner than fuffer this, they all 
 threw themfelves into the fea. 
 
 SEPTEMBER i, the mailer of the houfe having 
 returned home in the night, perfuaded me to defer 
 my journey till afternoon -, promifmg to accompany 
 me part of the way. It was no more than three 
 fhort leagues to Belle-ombre^ the lafl plantation, or 
 houfe that I fhould find. Madame de Normand 
 
 i c ir 
 
 herfelf,
 
 VOYAGES to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 155 
 
 herfelf, prepared a remedy to apply to the wound of 
 my poor negro. She made over the fire a kind 
 of Samaritan's Balfam, with turpentine, fugar, wine, 
 and oil. His wound being dreflcd, I fent him on 
 before with his comrade. At three o'clock, I took 
 leave of this hofpitable houfe, and of the amia-r 
 ble and excellent miflrefs of it. Her hufband 
 and I fet out. He was a very robuft man ; and 
 his arms, legs, and face were exceedingly fun-burnt. 
 He worked himfelf in the plantation, as well as in 
 cutting down and clearing away trees. Nothing gave 
 him concern, he faid, but the ill health his wife 
 brought upon herfelf by bringing up her children , 
 and that me had lately added to the fatigue, by tak- 
 ing upon her the charge of an orphan. He told me 
 only his grievances, for he could not but perceive 
 how fenfible I was of the happinefs he enjoyed. 
 
 We crofled a rivulet near the houfe, and walked 
 upon the green fod as far as point Corail. Here 
 the fea runs up into the ifland, between two chains 
 of perpendicular mountains : we followed this chain, 
 thro' broken and rugged paths, and fometimes 
 Twinging by the rocks. Our greateft difficulty was 
 on the fide of the bay, in doubling what they call 
 the Cape. I faw feveral negroes paffing it , they 
 fcrambled along the fide of the rock, and had they 
 made one falfe ftep, muft have fallen into the fea, 
 In bad weather this pafiage is impracticable, the fea 
 beating in, and breaking among the rocks in a moft 
 frightful manner. In a calm, fmall vefiels can come 
 into the bay, at the end of which they load with 
 wood. Luckily for us, the King's Senau the Deftre, 
 was then in the bay, and we borrowed her boat to 
 crofs it. M. le Normande went over with me, and 
 we then took leave of each other, and parted. 
 
 AFTER
 
 156 VOYAGE to the ISLE or FRANCE. 
 
 AFTER three hours walking over a green fod, I 
 reached the other fide of Point St. Ma> tin. Some- 
 times I walked upon the land, and fometimes upon 
 the turf, which grew in thick tufts like mofs. Here 
 I found a pirogue, in which M. Etiene, partner in 
 the plantation of Belle-ombre waited for my coming. 
 We foon got to his houfe, which v/as fituated at the 
 entrance of the river C.treniers, on the left fhore of 
 which they were building a fhip of two hundred 
 tons. 
 
 ALL the way from M. le Normand's ? the coolnefs 
 of the air and the verdure of the ground is delightful. 
 'Tis a. favannah, without rock, lying between the 
 fea and woods, which have a beautiful appearance. 
 
 BEFORE I pafled the Cape, I obferved a large fhelf 
 of coral, above fifteen feet high. 'Tis 4 kind of 
 breaker, which the fea has abandoned - y at the foot 
 of it, there is a long piece of fenny-ground, whick 
 might be eafily converted into a bafon for imaU 
 vefiels. 
 
 SEPTEMBER 2^ my negro being almoft cured of his 
 wound, by the remedy Madame de Normand had ap- 
 plied to it, I fixed my departure for that afternoon. 
 In the morning I went out in the pirogue between 
 the breakers and the coaft. The water was clear to 
 the very bottom -, and one might fee a forefl of ma- 
 drepores of five or fix feet high, like trees, fome of 
 them with flowers growing upon them. Different 
 forts of fifh, and of all colours, fwain about among 
 their branches , in fome parts were numbers of beau- 
 tiful mell-fifh, and in others tunny-ftfh, equally 
 beautiful, which meandered about, as the motion of 
 the pirogue difturbed and frighted them. I might 
 have made a valuable collection, but I had no 
 
 diyer
 
 VOYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 Giver here, nor any proper iron pincers to raife up 
 the plants from this maritime garden, or to root up 
 thefe trees of ftonc. However, I brought away with 
 me fome of the rock called, the Ear of Midas, the 
 Golden Cloth, &c. &c. 
 
 Two officers of the D fire dined with us, who, 
 with Monfieur Etiene, agreed to accompany me as 
 far as the arm of the lea dt l.i Sa'vanne^ three leagues 
 off. Nobody lives there, but there are fome huts 
 made of Itraw ; we had fent the negroes forward in 
 the morning , and after dinner I followed them by 
 myfelf. 
 
 I ARRIVED at P0/7 Jacotet \ a part where the fea 
 runs up into the land, forming a circular bay, in the 
 middle of which is a finall triangular ifland ; this 
 creek is furrounded by a rifmg ground, that gives it 
 the appearance of a bafon. It is open only at the 
 entrance, where the fea-water enters -, and at the other 
 end receives a number of rivulets, that run over a 
 fine find, from a piece of frefh- water above, in which 
 were plenty of fim. Round this piece of water are 
 feveral little hills, rifmg one above another in the 
 form of an amphitheatre, and crowned with clumps 
 of trees, fome fhaped like pyramids or yews, and o- 
 thers like an umbrella, behind, and far above all 
 thefe, were the tow'ring tops of a wood of palm-trees, 
 whofe bending branches looked like fo many plumes 
 of feathers. This huge mafs of verdure, rifcs out of 
 the middle of the green turf, and is joined to the 
 foreft, and to a branch of the mountain leading to 
 the Black-River. The murmuring of the fprings^ 
 the beautiful greennefs of the waves, the conftant, 
 but gentle whittling of the winds, the fmoothnefs of 
 the plain, with the jpleafmg umbrage of the high 
 lands, and grateful fmell of the veloutiers, diffufed 
 
 around
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 around me peace and happinefs. I regretted my 
 being alone ; - a variety of projects fuggeited them- 
 felves to my imagination ; and I would have given 
 up all the univerfe befide, might I but with ibmc 
 chofen and beloved objects, have fpent my days 
 to come in this delightful place. 
 
 I QUITTED this pleafmg profpect with reluctance. 
 Before I had gone two hundred yards from it, there 
 met me a troop of negroes armed with fufils , up- 
 on their nearer approach, I perceived them to be a 
 party fent out by the police of the ifland ; they flop- 
 ped when they came up to me. One of them had 
 got in the fhellofa gourd, two puppies juft whelp- 
 ed-, another of them led a woman tied by the neck 
 with a cord made of rulhes -, this was the booty they 
 had taken from a camp of Maron negroes, which 
 they had routed. They had killed one man, whole 
 grtjgrh they mewed me, 'twas a kind of taliiinan 
 made like a rofary. The poor negro-woman, leem- 
 ed overwhelmed with grief. I afked her fome quef- 
 tions, but me did not aniwer me. She carried "upon 
 her back a bag made of vacoa, I opened it, and was 
 mocked beyond meafure at finding in it the head 
 of a man. The country before meieemed no longer 
 beautiful in my eyes, but was converted to a fcene 
 cf horrors, from which I fled with precipitation. 
 
 MY companions met me again as I was with fome 
 difficulty going down a declivity, towards the arm 
 of the fea de la Savanna ; it was now night, and we 
 feated ourfelves under fome trees at the bottom of 
 the bay ; where we fupped by the light of flam- 
 beaux, 
 
 OUR converfation turned upon thefubject of the 
 Maron negroes, for they as well as I, had met the party 
 
 with
 
 VOYAGE to fbe ISLE OF FRANCE. 159 
 
 the poor woman, who was carrying, perhaps, 
 the head of her lover ! M. Etiene told us, there 
 were troops of them, of two or three hundred in 
 number in the environs of Belie-ombre, and that 
 they elected a chief, dilbbedience to whole orders, 
 was punifhed with death. They are forbidden to 
 take any thing from the houies in the neighbour- 
 hood, or to go to die fide of the frequented rivers 
 to feek for fifh or other food. In the night they go 
 down to the fea-fide and fifh ; and in the day-time 
 drive the deer or flags to the interior parts of the 
 woods, with dogs trained to great perfection- for this 
 purpofe. When there is but one woman in a party, 
 fhe is referved for the chief ; but if there are many> 
 they are in common. The children that are born, 
 are immediately killed, left their cries fhould difco- 
 ver their retreat. The whole morning is fpent in 
 calling lots to- prefage the deftiny of the enfuing day. 
 
 He told us, that being a hunting one day laft 
 year, he met a run-away negroe, whom he purfued 
 and prefented his gun at, it miffed fire thrice. He 
 was then going to knock him down with the but- 
 end, but was prevented by two negroe-women, who 
 came out of the wood, and weeping, threw themfelves 
 at his feet. The black feized the opportunity and 
 efcaped. He brought the two generous creatures 
 home with him - 9 he had fhewn us one of them in the 
 morning, 
 
 I HAD obierved, that by clearing away fome of 
 the beds of coral, PoSf-Jacotet^ the chearful place 
 I have juft defcribed, might be made a very good 
 harbour for fmall vefiels. The arm of the fea de la 
 Savanna would alfo ferve to load, or land goods from 
 barges. This part in general, is by far the moft 
 beautiful of the whole ifland j but it remains uncul- 
 tivated.
 
 160 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE; 
 
 tivated, a communication with Port-Louis being dif- 
 ficult, on account of the mountains between them; 
 ancl the wind being fo feldom fair for doubling Bra- 
 bant promontory in returning from the Port. 
 
 SEPTEMBER 3, M. Etienne, and M. de Chezemure, 
 Captain of the Defire, accompanied me as far as the 
 left-hand more of la Savatn^ which is much fteeper 
 than the other , in this place, their dogs put up a 
 ftag ; and here I took leave of them, to go alone the 
 twelve leagues that remained, through a defolate and 
 uninhabited country. I obferved as I wenf along, 
 that the meadows were much larger, and the woods 
 thicker and better grown. The mountains run a long 
 way into the land, and the fummits only of the dillant 
 fcnes were to be feen. 
 
 I EVERY now and then came to a ravin. I forded 
 three different rivers in the courfe of two hours walk 
 ing, and the fecond, called the river Anguilles, with 
 fome difficulty j its bottom being covered with 
 rocks, and the current very rapid. It flows from 
 fprings of a ferruginous quality, which cover the 
 water with an oil, the colour of a pigeon's breaft. 
 
 IN the way, I faw a fparrow-hawk, which makes 
 great havock among the poultry. It was perched 
 upon the trunk of a latanier. I prefented at him, 
 within a gun's length , both my primes flamed in the 
 pan, without either gun's going off. The bird kept 
 his place, and there I left him. This accident made 
 me look very carefully to my arms, in cafe of an at- 
 tack from the negroes. 
 
 ON the left-hand fide of the third river, and near 
 the fea, I made a halt upon a level part of the rocks, 
 ilnder the fhade of a vehutier. My blacks made me 
 
 a kind
 
 VOYAGE to tie ISLE. OF FRANCE. 161 
 
 a kind of tent, by throwing my cloak over fome 
 branches. Here I dined ; and they catched me fome 
 perch and conclis, and ears of Midas. 
 
 Two hours .after dinner, I went on again, my 
 guns, and people in good order : there was no need 
 to fear a furprize, the plain being entirely open, 
 and the woods at a great diftance. As the path 
 was a fine fmooth fand, that I might walk the more 
 at eafe, and not have the trouble of taking off my 
 ihoes and {lockings at every ford, I determined to 
 walk barefoot, as the hunters did in the morning. 
 This is hot only the moft natural, but the fafeil 
 way of going here, the foot feizing or griping the 
 ano-les of the rocks like a hand. The blacks are fo 
 expert by conflant ufe, that they can pick up a pin 
 from the ground with their toes. 'Tis not therefore 
 in vain, that Nature has divided this part into toes, 
 and them again into articulations. 
 
 HAVING pulled off my moes and (lockings while 
 I made thefe reflections, I walked on and forded the 
 firft river but in coming out of the water, 1 receiv- 
 ed a violent furoke of the fun upon my legs ; which 
 immediately became red and enflamed. In crofting a 
 fecond, I cut one of my heels, and one toe, and felt 
 the wounds exceedingly painful, when I put my foot 
 in the water. I gave up my project, lamenting that 
 want of cuftom had deprived me of one of the advan- 
 tages a man might enjoy here. 
 
 I CAME to the fide of the river Jacotet, and croffcd 
 it upon the back of my negroe, at about cannon-mot 
 diftance from its mouth. The water makes a great 
 noife in running over the rocks, and is fo tranfparent, 
 that I could diilinguim the black fnails that {luck to 
 the bottom. I mull own I fhuddered at palling this 
 
 M ftream.
 
 162 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 ftream. It being near fun-fet, I determined to po ntf 
 farther, but walked over the ftones along its brink, 
 to get to a fhed which I perceived on one of the 
 points of the mouth, and which I found it impoflible 
 to reach, the rocks were fo very rugged, I returned, 
 and again took the path, which led me to the top of 
 the flope at the foot of which the river runs. On 
 my left-hand, in a recefs, I law a little clump of 
 branches of trees and liannes, but could not penetrate 
 it, A thought ftruck me, to cut a way into it with 
 a hatchet, and lay down as in a neft, thus affiiring 
 myfelf of a place to (leep in. But fome drops of rain 
 falling, a roof, though ever fo bad a one, appeared 
 to be the better fhelter. I went down the recefs to- 
 wards the fea, and was very happy to find on my 
 right-hand, the Ihed I had feen from the oppofite 
 Ihore. 'Twas nothing but a mere roof of kaves of 
 latanicr^ built out from the rock , on my right, was 
 the paflage I had in vain attempted, and on the left, 
 that I had defcended by, and before me was the fea. 
 
 EVERY thing feemed equally fitted for my fafety 
 and convenience : They made me up a bed of dry 
 leaves, upon which I lay down. My two paniers 
 were laid one on the right, the other on the left fide 
 of me, one of my blacks at each entrance, my piflols 
 under my head, my gun at my fide, and my dog at 
 my feet. 
 
 THESE difpofitions were fcarcely made, before a 
 mivering feized me. This was the confequence of 
 the ftroke of the fun, which is generally fucceeded 
 by a fever. 
 
 MY legs became very much enflamed and pain- 
 ful. They made me ibme lemonade, and by the 
 light of a candle which they lit, I made notes of my 
 
 obfer-
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 163 
 
 obfervations during this journey, and corrected fome 
 trrors in the chart, 
 
 THE whole coaft, from the seftuary la Sevdnne, 
 is fteep and inaccefTible. The rivers that empty 
 themfelves here have fteep banks. It would be 
 impofiible for cavalry to get along at all, and the 
 march of art enemy might be impeded with great 
 tale, every river being a ditch of a depth abfolute- 
 iy frightful. As to the country, 'tis by far the 
 mofc beautiful in the ifland. 
 
 AT midnight the fever left me, and I fell afleep. 
 At half pail three o'clock, my dog waked me, by 
 running from under the fnedj and barking as loud 
 as he could. I called to Cote, who rofe -, we went 
 t>ut, but could fee nothing but a ftarry fky. My 
 black returned in a few minutes, and faid, he had 
 heard fomc body whiftle twice, as if in the wood. 
 I ordered them to light a fire and keep watch, and 
 placed Cote, armed with my fabre, as a centinel. 
 
 THE iea came up almoft as far as my cottage. 
 The noife of its breaking among the rocks, added 
 to the darknefs of the night, inclined me to reft, 
 but my appreheniions would not fuffer me. I was 
 five leagues from any houfe, and if the fever mould 
 again attack me, no affiftance could be had. I had 
 no fears about the Maron negroes ; my fervants were 
 both refolute men, and my fituation was fuch as 
 Would enable me to ftand a fiege. All things con- 
 fidered, I thought myfelf very happy that I did 
 not take up my lodging in the thicket. 
 
 AT day break, I gave a glafs of eau-de-vie to my 
 body-guards, and renewed my journey. Their 
 
 M 2 burdens
 
 164 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 burdens were much lightened, by the conflant con- 
 fumption of our proviiions. 
 
 SEPTEMBER 4, It was half paft five when I fet off, 
 refolving not to flop 'till I got to a houfe. We pre- 
 iently came to the fide of a fmall river, and a little 
 farther on to a rivulet almofl dried up. After an 
 hour's walk, the beautiful turf I had walked on from 
 the promontory of Brabant ended, and the foil be- 
 came ftony and covered with rocks, as in the other 
 parts of the ifland. The grafs here is of a finer ver- 
 dure, and of a large blade, very proper for pafture. 
 
 I FORDED an arm of the fea called du Cloallvn over 
 a fand-bank. The defcription of it in the plan is 
 not a good one. The fea runs deep into the land, 
 through a narrow channel, a-crois which gratings 
 might be put, and there would then be a fine refer- 
 voir for fiJh. On the left more there was a med, in 
 which I refted myfelf. 
 
 ABOUT half a league from thence the path divides, 
 I took that to the left, which leads into the woods ; 
 it conducted me to a wide road, marked with a track 
 of wheels, an appearance that pleafed me very much, 
 as it was a fign of my being near a houfe of fome 
 note, an'd the print of a horfes hoof was at that time 
 a much more defirable fight than the foot-ftep of a 
 man. We loon arrived at a houfe, but the mafler 
 was out i I therefore went back, and ftruck into a 
 path, that led through the woods to the plantation of 
 M. Delaunay. I got here in good time, for my legs 
 were fo terribly inflamed, that 1 could fcarcely walk. 
 He lent me a horfe to carry me two leagues off to a 
 plantation occupied by fome priefts. 
 > 
 
 I CROS-
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 165 
 
 I CROSSED fucceflively the rivers de la Cbaux, and 
 des Creeks, three quarters of a league from the laft, 
 I eroded one of the bays to the fouth-eaft of the Port 
 in a pirogue. 
 
 THE fides of this bay are covered with mangliers. 
 The views here are delightful, the country being hil- 
 ly, and covered with plantations, interfperfed with a 
 great number of clumps of orange-trees. It was fix 
 o'clock when I arrived at the houfe of the prieft, who 
 had the management of the plantation. My legs 
 were bathed with elder-flower water, and I flept with 
 great comfort. 
 
 SEPTEMBES 5, I was now but one league from the 
 Great Port. The good Prieft lent me a hprfe, and I 
 got to the town about ten o'clock ; it confifls of about 
 a dozen houfes. . The moil remarkable buildings 
 are, a large mill nearly fallen to ruins, and the Go- 
 vernor's houfe in little better condition. Behind the 
 town is a high mountain, and before it the fea, which 
 forms a bay two leagues deep, including the rocks at 
 its entrance, and four leagues long from point Cccos 
 to point Diable. I alighted at the houfe of the cu- 
 rate. 
 
 SEPTEMBER 6, 7, and 8, I was charmed with my 
 hoft, and with the country I had fee'n ; but nei- 
 ther he, nor his parimioners drank any thing ex- 
 cept water. It is frequently a month's voyage from 
 hence to Port-Louis, and the inhabitants are upon 
 thefe occafions in abfolute want of every article 
 that comes from Europe. I gave part of my pro- 
 vifions to M. Deliblie, my holt, who w,as a good fort 
 of man. 
 
 M 3 THE
 
 1 66 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 THE ibuth-eaft port was formerly inhabited by the 
 Dutch, one of whole ancient buildings is now uled 
 35 a chapel. There are two ways to enter the Port, 
 one at point Diab'e^ for fmall velTels ; the other, 
 which is much wider, is by the fide of ah ifland 
 towards the middle. At each of thefe places is a 
 1 battery, and at the bottom of the bay, is a third 
 called the Queen's battery. 
 
 IF my indifpofition would have permitted me, I 
 fhould have examined the variety of ftrange bodies; 
 thrown a-fhore by the fea, in order' to have formed 
 fome opinion of the lands to windward of the ifland ; 
 but I could not undergo the fatigue, 'for my legs 
 were very painful, and the fkin peeled off entirely. 
 
 The following is all the information I could get : 
 
 WHALES frequently come into the fouth-eaft port, 
 where it would be very eafy and fafe to harpoon them; 
 Fifh is very plentiful upon this coaft, efpecially ihell- 
 fim, of the moft beautiful kinds. They gave me 
 fome oyfters of a violet colour, from the mouth of 
 the river la Cbaux y and a fpecies of criftalization from 
 the neigbouring river, Sorbes. 
 
 I SAW for three nights, a comet, which firft ap- 
 peared a fortnight before, the nucleus was pale and 
 nebulous, its tail white and very long, the rays di- 
 verged but little. I drew the pofition of it in the 
 fky, which was a little below the three Kings. Its 
 courfe was caftward, and confequently its tail in a 
 weflerly direction. At half paft two on the morning 
 of the 6th, its elevation was about 50 deg. above the 
 horizon, my obfervation could not be very accurate 
 for want of the proper inftruments. 
 
 THE
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 167 
 
 THE air of this place was cool and refrefhing, and 
 the country beautiful and fertile : but the inhabitants 
 are fo few, that during # whole day, I faw but two 
 negroes pafs through the Greet. 
 
 SEPTEMBER 9, I now found myfelf able to conti- 
 nue my journey, efpecially as the part I went through 
 was inhabited. I determrned to Hop for the night at 
 four leagues diftance from the mouth of the Great 
 River, which is fomething broader than that of the 
 fame name, near Port-Louis. 
 
 WE fet out at fix in the morning, and followed 
 the courfe of the more, which is broken in feveral 
 places by bays, on the fides of which grow Ynangliers 
 in abundance. It is not impoflible but that the feeds 
 may have been brought by the fea from fome land 
 to windward. We went along the fide of a range of 
 high mountains to our left, they were covered with 
 wood. The country is divided into fmall hills, on 
 which grows a very fine grafs ; the provender of cat- 
 tle, bred here in great numbers j 'tis a pleafant part 
 pf the ifland, but very fatiguing to travel over. 
 
 AFTER walking about two hours, we faw upon arj 
 eminence a fine houfe built of ftone. Here I flopped 
 to refrefh myfelf ; it belonged to a wealthy inhabi- 
 tant, whofe name was V***. He was abroad. His 
 wife was a raw-boned Creole, who according to the 
 cuftom of the country went barefoot. I found her 
 in a room, with five or fix girls about her, and as 
 many maftifF dogs, who immediately attacked my dog, 
 and were very near flrangling him. She turned them 
 all out, of the room, and placed at the door to keep 
 them out a negroe wench, who had nothing on but a 
 ragged petticoat. I begged leave to ftay in her houfe 
 during the heat of the day. The firft compliments, 
 M 3 were
 
 i63 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 were fcarcely ended, before one of the dogs found 
 means to get in among us again, and the uproar was 
 
 renewed. Madame de la V held in her hand the 
 
 prickly tail of a dried thornback, with which me gave 
 the poor negroe a cut a-crois the bare moulders, 
 (which were marked immediately with a long wheal) 
 and then me gave a back flroke to the dog, who ran 
 howling away. 
 
 THIS Lady told me, flie had narrowly efcaped 
 being drowned in going in a pirogue to harpoon 
 turtles among the rocks. She ieemed to value 
 herfelf much upon going to hunt the Maron ne- 
 groes in the woods ; but fiie told me, the Gover- 
 nor had deprived her of her favourite fport, which 
 was ftag-hunting, and added, " I mould have been 
 " better plcafed, if he had fuuck a dagger in my 
 " heart." 
 
 AT four in the afternoon I left this negroe-hunt- 
 ing Bellona j and took a ' path, which went a-crois 
 point Diable, ib called, by the firft navigators on this 
 coaft , becaufe it is faid, that their compafs varied 
 without their being able to account why it did ib. 
 We crofTed the mouth of the Great River in a ca- 
 noe, it is navigable for nothing larger, on account 
 of a fand-bank which runs a-crois it, and a catarac~b 
 formed by it, about a quarter of a league from 
 hence. 
 
 THERE is an earth redoubt on the left {here, at 
 the beginning of the road that leads to Fl'acq, and 
 along which we went, the rocks being fo rugged 
 upon the fhore' in this part, as to render it impaf- 
 fable. Here we once more entered the woods, which 
 are very fine, and abound in orange-trees. A quar- 
 ter of a league from hence I came to 'a houfe, the 
 
 matter
 
 VOYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRANCE. 169 
 
 matter of it was not at home -, I flopped notwith- 
 ftanding. 
 
 I HAD walked two hours and a half in the morning, 
 and as much in the afternoon. 
 
 SEPTEMBER 10, we kept the road to Flacq, 'till 
 we got about a quarter of a league beyond the river 
 itec be, which we forded as we had done the reft : then 
 taking a path on the right-hand, I came to the fea- 
 Ihore at Laudouce bay, where there was a poft of thirty 
 men. 
 
 WE now went again along the more, it being very 
 paffable. Cote carried me over an arm of the fea, 
 which was rather deep. The fand is almoft every 
 where covered with rocks, except a long meadow of 
 dog's tooth-grafs, of the fame fort I had feen at Belle- 
 ombre. All this part is dry and barren -, the woods 
 are low and thin, and extepd as far as the mountains 
 which are feen at a diftance : this plain, over which 
 are three roads, is not good for much, it reaches as 
 far as a fettlement called Quatre Cccos. There is no 
 other water, but a brackiih well, dug in the rocks, 
 full of veins of iron ore. 
 
 AFTER dinner, a path on our left-hand, led us in- 
 to the woods, which were very ftony. We came to 
 the brink of the river F/acq, at about a quarter of a 
 league from the mouth, and crofled it upon planks. 
 In going along the fide of this river, I paffed feveral 
 plantations, of which there are many hereabouts, and 
 came down to a ftore-houfe on the left, where there 
 is a pofl, commanded by M. Gautier, the Captain 
 of a company. He defircd me to lodge there that 
 pight. 
 
 SEP-
 
 170 VOYAGE to the ISLE of P'RAXCE, 
 
 SEPTEMBER u, I laid by all day. This part, 
 which is called Le Flacq^ is the beft cultivated in the 
 ifland -, rice grows in great plenty. There is a creek 
 in the rocks, by which barges can come and load 
 with the greateft convenience, 
 
 SEPTEMBER 12, my hoft accompanied me part of 
 the way -, we went in a pirogue to poft Fayftie^ as 
 far as which, the coaft is entirely covered with rocks 
 and mangroves. Jear the landing place, we law the 
 trace of a turtle in the fand ; this induced us to land 
 in fearch of it, but we found nothing but its neft. 
 We forded the bay des Aigrettes, which is a large arm 
 of the fea. I was upon the moulders of Cote y when 
 the fea became fo deep towards the middle ot the paf- 
 fage, that I feared he would not b v e able to keep his 
 feet , the water came up to his neck, and wetted me 
 very much. A little farther on, we came to another 
 asftuary, called the bay de Requins, I obferved many 
 parts of the rock pierced with a number of round 
 holes, of about a foot diameter. Some of them were 
 as deep as my cane, and I imagined that the lava of 
 fome volcano, having formerly flowed through the 
 wood, had confumed the trunks of the tree?, and 
 left the print of the place they had grown in. 
 
 FROM the poft of Fayette to the river du Remf>art y 
 the meadow is continued. This part is alfo well cul- 
 tivated, and here we dined. I then crofied the river, 
 and went on alone, 'till I came to the river des Citrc- 
 wers. The fun was juft fetting, when I perceived an 
 inhabitant at a little diftance, who invited me very 
 kindly to his houfe. - his name was Le Sieur 
 Goule. 
 
 SEPTEMBER 13, In the morning he offered me his 
 horfe to go to the town, which was but five leagues 
 
 off.
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 17 j 
 
 pff. I would willingly have gone round the whole 
 ifland, but there remained ftili four leagues of the 
 
 / > : *J 
 
 way totally without inhabitants, or water ; befides, 
 from point des Caaonien, to the Port was a part of 
 the coaft that I already knew. 
 
 I ACCEPTED the offer my hoft had made me, and 
 left this quarter, which is called La Pcudre d'o>-, on 
 account, fay they, of the colour of the fand, which 
 however, appeared to me to be white, as in other 
 places. I crofled the river, (which is called by the 
 lame name as the quarter) and then entered a large 
 wood, the foil of which is good, but without water. 
 In the quarter of FamplemoulTe, which was the next 
 I came to, the lands feem quite exhaufted, the inha- 
 bitants having cultivated them for thirty years, with- 
 out ever laying dung upon them*, I forded this 
 river, and the rivers Seibe^ and de Lataniers^ and in 
 the evening arrived at the Port. 
 
 THE moil fertile foils I had feen on my tour were 
 all flony, except fome parts of Pamplemoufle. 
 
 I DID not find one monument worthy of remark. 
 There are three churches in the ifland ; one at Port- 
 Louis, the fecond at the fouth-eaft port, and the third, 
 and handfomefl at Pamplemoufle ; the two others be- 
 ing fmaller than the churches of a little country vil- 
 lage. They had built one at Port-Louis, upon a very 
 handfome plan, but the roof being too much raifed, 
 the walls were inefficient to bear its weight, and re- 
 fift the force of the hurricanes. What remains of it 
 is now ufed as a ftore-houfe, of which there are but 
 
 * The author calls itfumer, (rooking them. Saturn was cal- 
 led Stercutius by the ancients, for having taught them this method 
 of improving their lands. T. 
 
 few
 
 1 72 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 few in the ifland, and the greater part of thofe built 
 of wood, a material by no means proper for public 
 buildings, efpecially here, where the ftrongeft beams 
 will only laft forty years, if the worms do not deftroy 
 them fooner ; beiides, ftone is found every where in 
 great abundance, and the HI and is furrounded with 
 coral, for lime. The greateft difficulty is in laying 
 the foundations, for which, the rocks muft be blown 
 lip with gunpowder ; and yet, all things confidcrcd, 
 1 do not think, that a building in ftone would coft 
 one third more than one of wood. The latter is 
 foon built, and as foon decays. Thofe who are too 
 eager for enjoyment, never enjoy any thing to per- 
 fection. 
 
 THE ifland is reckoned to be about forty five 
 leagues in circumference. It is watered by a num- 
 ber of rivulets, which run in deep channels from 
 the center of the ifland into the fea. Although 
 
 O 
 
 we were now in the dry ieafon, I croiTed above four 
 and twenty, flowing with frefh and wholefome water. 
 I fuppofe that about half this ifland lays fallow, one 
 quarter of it confuls of plantations, .and the remain- 
 der of paflure grounds, of various kinds. 
 
 LET-
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF EKANCE. 173 
 
 LETTER XVIII. 
 
 Of the COMMERCE, AGRICULTURE, and 
 DEFENCE of the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 ON E letter will not fuffice to relate all that 
 may be laid upon thefe three fubjecls, which 
 are boundlefs. To begin with the firft, I do noc 
 know a corner of the earth whofe wants are fup- 
 plied from fo many, or fo diftant parts. Their 
 dimes and plates come from China ; their linen and 
 clothes from India-, their (laves and cattle fromMada- 
 gafcar , their provilions, or part of them, from the 
 Cape of Good-Hope -, their money from Cadiz, and 
 their government and laws from France. M, de 
 la Bourdonnais wilhed to have made it the ftaple of 
 the trade to India a fecond Batavia. 
 
 WITH the view of great genius, he had alfo the 
 weaknefs of a man : place him but upon a point, 
 and he will make the centre of all things. 
 
 ALL ftaples augment the expences of trade, and 
 mould never be eftablijhed but when abfolutely ne- 
 ceffary. No nation has any ftaple between the Indies 
 and Europe, but where the trade is immediately con- 
 cerned. Batavia is a fpice illand. 
 
 THE Ifle of France is looked upon, as a fortrefs 
 which aflures to us our pofiefilons in India ; with 
 
 equal
 
 174 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 equal reafon Bourdeaux might be deemed the citidel 
 of our American colonies. The Ifle of France is 
 fifteen hundred leagues from Pondicherry. Suppofe 
 a garrifon ever fo numerous were to be maintained 
 here, yet, a fquadron muft rendezvous in a port, 
 where the worms will totally deftroy a fhip in three- 
 years. Neither pitch, tar^ cordage, or maft timber 
 are found here ; nor is the wood of a proper fort for 
 any other branch of building. 
 
 WE muft afterwards run the rifle of a fea-engage- 
 ment. If beaten, we cannot fuccour the place , if 
 victorious, our ibldiers, carried fuddenly from a tem- 
 perate to a very fultry climate, will be unable to en- 
 dure the fatigue of the fervice. 
 
 If half the money had been expended upon fome- 
 part of the malabar coaft, or at the mouth of the 
 Ganges, in lieu of the Ifle of France, we might 
 have had a reipeclable tbrtrefs in India itfelf, and the 
 troops would have been feaibned to the climate ; nor 
 would the Englifh in this cafe have been mailers of 
 Bengal. From them we may learn how to form a 
 a fettlement, and protect it when formed. They 
 have an army of three or four thoufand Europeans 
 upon the very banks of the Ganges , befides a num- 
 ber of diftant iilands under their dominion : they 
 have nothing now to do but to eftablifh themfelves 
 on the weftern fide of Madagafcar : but in all their 
 enterprizes, they never while purfuing the means, 
 lofe fight of the end. A flock of Iheep would be in 
 a dangerous fituation, were the dogs, their protectors, 
 at fifteen hundred leagues diftance from them. 
 
 WHEREFORE then do we continue to keep this Ifle 
 of France ? To fupply us with coffee, and as a pore 
 for our fhips to put into upon occafion. 
 
 THIS
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 THIS country which produces little elfe than a fmall 
 quantity of coffee, has wants, enough, to engage 
 all its attention to them alone, this muit be entirely 
 {implied from France for fome time, or the colony 
 will never arrive at a ftate to be of the leaft real ufe to 
 the mother country. Our commodities, our cloths^ 
 our linnens, our manufactures are in plenty, and the 
 cotton- works of Normandy are frr better than thole 
 of India with which they clothe the (laves. No money 
 but our own mould circulate here. A paper curren- 
 cy is let on foot but is of no great credit j at the bdt 
 rate of exchange, thirty three, and frequently fifty 
 per cent is loft by it. Indeed it is impoflible that 
 this paper money can lofe lefs , it is payable in 
 France fix months after fight, it is fix months upon 
 the voyage thither, and fix months on the return -, 
 this is eighteen months. Ready money is reckoned 
 here, to produce thirty three per cent in eighteen 
 months, if employed in the maritime trade ; and 
 therefore who ever gives paper for piaftres, juftly 
 looks upon himfelf as running rifks of more forts 
 than one. 
 
 WHATEVER is bought for the king, is fold to him 
 at one third lefs than its real worth. The corn of 
 the inhabitants, all buildings creeled for him, 
 ftores, and expeditions of every fort. You may 
 have a ftorehoufe built for 20,000 francs, ready mo- 
 ney , * if you pay in paper, the price is io,coo 
 crowns and upon a matter of this kind, there ne- 
 ver is any difpute. 
 
 ALL payments however are made in this paper mo- 
 :y. 'Twas once thought it never would have gone 
 
 * A franc or livre is lod. * Englifti. 
 
 OUC
 
 176 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 out of the ifland ^ but now not only this goes, but 
 the piaftres alib, and never to return , the colony 
 would elie be in want of every thing. 
 
 OF all the places to which it trades, the only one 
 that is indifpenfably neceffary at prefent to its exift- 
 ance, is Madagafcar, for flaves and cattle. Theie 
 iflanders were formerly content with the wretched 
 fufils that were offered them in barter, but they muft 
 now have piaftres, and thofe milled at the edges 
 All the world is rifmg into perfection. 
 
 FURTHER, if there is the moft diftant profpeft of 
 this ifland being a flourifhing feat of trade, the port 
 mud be cleared out without delay, there being now 
 feven or eight hulks of mips each forming an iiland, 
 which is every day increafed by the madrepores grow- 
 ing round them. 
 
 No perfon mould be allowed to pofTefs lands fitu- 
 ated conveniently for the port, but what mould pay 
 for them accordingly. Nor mould any perfon pro- 
 cure for himfelf grants of evteniive and the fineft 
 lands in the iiland, to fell them, again to others. 
 This abufe is exprefsly prohibited by the laws : but 
 the laws here are not put in execution. 
 
 THE breeding of the beads of burthen mould be 
 attended to, and efpecially of affes, fo ufeful in a 
 mountainous country : an als will carry tw'ce the 
 load that a negroe can (land under. The black is of 
 a little higher price, but the afs .is the ftrongeft and 
 the happieft of the two. 
 
 They have made many laws relative to the planting 
 bufinefs. No people in the world know their own 
 intereft better than the inhabitants of the Ifle of 
 France, nor what is belt fuited to the foil they 
 pofiefs. THERE
 
 VOYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRANCE. 177 
 
 THERE are a number of foldiers here who are en- 
 tirely ufelds, thefe men might have lands allotted 
 for cultivation, and affiftance for clearing them, 
 and might marry the free negroes. Were a plan of 
 this kind adopted, in ten years the whole ifland 
 would turn to profit in one way or another; and we 
 mould have an eftablimed nurfery for failors and fol- 
 diers to ferve in India. This idea is fo very fimple, 
 that I do not at all wonder it has been rejected as 
 contemptible. 
 
 I leave to others the propofing of* means for alle- 
 viating the feverit jes of the bondage of the poor ne- 
 groes ; fome abuies are too enormous to admit of 
 mediation. 
 
 IF you talk upon the mode of* defence proper^or 
 this ifland, a lea officer, will tell you a fquadron 
 mould be kept here conftantly ; an engineer would 
 have it fortified ; a brigadier is perfuaded that a few 
 regiments would belt anfwer the purpofe ; and the 
 inhabitants think the ifland will of itfelf, defend it- 
 felf. The three firil of thefe objects depend upon 
 the will of the adminiftration and may partly be dif- 
 penfed with, altho' in fome refpects. necefTary. I 
 mail enlarge upon the laft, as I wifh you to be ac- 
 quainted with iome of the ceconomical views of the 
 people here. 
 
 I obferved, in my tour round the ifland, that it 
 was almoft entirely encircled at fome diftance from 
 the fhore, by a belt of rocks : that in thofe parts 
 where the belt was not continued, the coaft is formed 
 of rocks high and inacceflible. This difpofition, fo excel- 
 lent for its defence, could not fail to aitcnifh me ; but 
 it is neverthelefs certain, the ifland would be totally 
 
 N inacceflible
 
 l;8 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 inaccefiible, but for fome clefts in the rocks which 
 afford a paffage -, of thefe I counted eleven. They 
 are formed by the currents of the river. 
 
 IN the fecuring of thefe paffes then, confifts the 
 defence of the ifland from without fome of them 
 might be fhut up by means of floating chains, and 
 others by batteries raifed upon the more. 
 
 As that part between the rocks and the more is na- 
 vigable for boats, fmall armed floops might be ufed 
 with good efFe6t, when the pafs is not within cannon- 
 mot of the coaft. 
 
 BEHIND the rocks, the more is very accefTible ; 
 the landing being upon a level. Thefe parts how- 
 ever might be rendered impracticable by art, as thofe 
 of the bays of the South Eaft port are by nature. 
 Nothing need be done but to plant Mangl'ters^ a fort 
 of trees which growing far out into the fea form fo- 
 refts abfolutely impenetrable. This expedient is fo 
 very eafy, that nobody has yet thought of it. 
 
 IF in thofe parts of the coaft where the furf runs 
 high, fome of the rocks are found to be accefiible, 
 thefe being no where of much extent, might be de- 
 fended by railing a wall or line ; by keeping che- 
 vaux de frife to throw into the water, or by Raquettes 
 which will grow in the drieft places ; (but the Manglier 
 will grow if there is ever fo little fand;) by trees, prick- 
 ly mrubs, &c. They have befides, this advantage, 
 they coft but little ; and time, thedeftroyer of every 
 other fortification, increafes and ftrengthens that I am 
 recommending. So much for the defence againft the 
 attacks by fea. 
 
 I confider this ifland as a circle, and the rivers 
 flowing from the centre, as fo many Radii of it. 
 
 The
 
 VOYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRANCE. 179 
 
 *The fhores might be cut either perpendicularly, or 
 with a talus, or raquettes and bambos might be 
 planted upon the fides towards the town, and the oppo- 
 fite more laid open for three hundred toiies. By this 
 means the ground between every two rivulets is ren- 
 dered a ftrongly fortified place, and the channel of 
 each rivulet a very dangerous ditch. Every attempt 
 to pafs, on whatever fide it is made, muft be percei- 
 ved by the inhabitants, who would be enabled there- 
 by to act for their defence accordingly ; nor could 
 any enemy arrive at the town but througji a thoufand 
 difficulties and obftructions. This fyftem of defence 
 might be adopted in all fmall iflands, whofe waters 
 constantly How from the centre to the circumference. 
 
 BETWEEN the two wings of the mountains which 
 encompafs the town and the port, there is need but 
 of little fortification, except that part towards the 
 fea. Upon the ifle of T'onneHers mould be built a 
 fort, with batteries placed in a kind of covered ways 
 to enfilade each other. Thefe mould be mounted 
 with a number of mortars, fo terrible to fhipping. 
 To the right and left as far as the ends of the pro- 
 montories, the land mould be protected by ftrong 
 and refpcctable lines. Nature has already done her 
 part towards the defence of the right fide, the river 
 Latanier running the length of the whole front. 
 
 O D 
 
 A deep valley is formed at the back of the town 
 by the mountains, and includes a vafl extent of 
 ground, whereon all the inhabitants of the illand 
 and their (laves might be aficmbled. The other fide 
 of thefe mountains is inacceffible, or might be ca- 
 fily made fo, at a trifling expence. 
 
 THIS place has befides, a peculiar advan- 
 tage ; for in the very highcfl part of the moun 
 
 N 2 tarn
 
 T8o V OYAG E to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 tain, at the place called Le Pouce, there is found 
 a large piece of land, planted with trees, among 
 which run two or three rivulets of very fine frefh wa- 
 ter. There is no afcending thither from the town, 
 but by a very intricate path. It has been attempted 
 by force of mines, to make a wide road of communi- 
 cation with the interior part of the ifland , but the 
 back of the mountains are of fo prodigious a height and 
 fteepnefs, that fcarce any thing except a negroe or a 
 monkey can fcramble over them. Four hundred men 
 in this poft, if furnilhed with provifions, could never 
 be driven from it j and there is fpace enough for the 
 whole garrifon. 
 
 If to thefe natural means of defence, we add thofe 
 which mould be furnifhed by government, a fqua- 
 dron, and proper troops, an enemy would have the 
 following obftacles to furmount. 
 
 I HE would be obliged to hazard the event of an 
 engagement by fea. 
 
 II SUPPOSING the enemy victorious, our fqua- 
 clron might retard his defcent, by making him bear 
 to the windward of the ifland in the courfe of the 
 engagement. 
 
 Ill THE difficulties of a difembarkation would 
 remain to be encountered with. The coaft can be 
 attacked only at particular points, and no where up- 
 on a front of any extent. , 
 
 IV THE pafiage over each rivulet would be at- 
 tended with an engagement to his manifeft di fad van- 
 tage j if by the method I have propofed, the one 
 fide of the rivulet mould be laid quite open. 
 
 V.
 
 VOYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRANCE. 181 
 
 V HE muft form the liege of the town on a fide 
 where there is but little room : muft fuftain the fire 
 from the promontories which command this place ; 
 and open his trenches among rocks. 
 
 VI SHOULD the garrifcn be driven out of the town, 
 they might retire to the height abovementioned, a fe- 
 cure retreat, well provided with water, and where 
 they might be conftantly fupplied with fuccours from 
 the interior part of the ifland. 
 
 THIS would be a proper time for me to fpeak of 
 the defence of the neighbouring ifland of Bourbon ; 
 but I am yet a ftrangcr to it. I know only that a 
 landing is impracticable ; that it is well peopled, and 
 grows more corn than it can confume ; yet does eve- 
 ry one contend that the fate of Bourbon depends upon 
 that of the Ifle of France. Is this, * becaufe the 
 military cheft is kept here ? 
 
 * The author has fupprefled Tome obfervations relative to the 
 Jfle of France, left what he propo-d as a means of its defence, 
 might be of advantage to an anemy about to attack it. *Thij 
 ought to have occurred to thofe who have published plans and 
 charts of our colonies, of which our enemies have more than 
 once availed themfelvfs to our diiadvantage. The Dutch will 
 permit no plans of tht-ir iflands to be engraved. Manufcript ones 
 are given to each Mafter cf a veff.1, who at his return delivers 
 them again into \hz proper office at their admiralty. 
 
 END OF THE FIRST PART.
 
 PART II. 
 
 A 
 
 VOYAGE, Sec. 
 
 LETTER XIX. 
 
 DEPARTURE FOR FRANCE ARRIVAL 
 AT BOURBON-HURRICANE. 
 
 HAVING obtained permifiion to return to France, 
 I prepared to embark on board L'Indien, a 
 fhip of 64 guns. 
 
 I gave Duval, the flave that bore your name his 
 freedom ; but lent him to a good man of the country, 
 until he had difcharged a debt he owed to the admi- 
 niftration. Had he Ipoken French, I would have 
 brought him to Europe. His tears teftified his regret 
 at parting with me, of which he feeined more fenfible 
 than of the pleafures of liberty. I propofed to have 
 bought the freedom of G?/alfo, if he would have attach- 
 ed himfelf to my fortune, but he declared there was a 
 girl in the ifland whom he could not part with. The 
 fituation of the King's flaves is very eafy. Here he 
 found himfelf happy, which was more than I could 
 promife he mould be if h? went with me. I mould 
 moil gladly have brought back my Favourite to his 
 own country, but fome months before I left the 
 ifland my poor dog was taken from me, in lofing 
 him I loft a faithful friend that I frequently regret f 
 
 N 4 SOME
 
 184 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 SOME days before I departed, I revifited Aiitouru, 
 the ifiander of Taiti, who had been brought thus far 
 on his way home from Europe.* On his paffage 
 from his own country to France, he was open, gay, 
 v and a little of the libertine-^-on his return, I obiervcd 
 he was referved and polite, he had fludicd the graces. 
 He was enchanted with the Opera at Paris, and imi- 
 tated the airs and dances he had heard andfeen there. He 
 had a watch, upon which he defcribed the hours by the 
 feverai employments of each, Hefhewed the hour of 
 rifmg, of eating, of going to the opera, of walking, 
 &c. &. -j-This man was very intelligent, and ex- 
 preffed by figns whatsoever he pleafed. Although 
 the men of Ta'iti pafs for having had no communica- 
 tion with other nations before the arrival of Mon- 
 fieur Bougainville, 1 obferved, however, one word 
 in their language and a cuftom which they have in 
 common with other people , Matte, in the language 
 of TaYti, means to kill. The Matte of Spain, and 
 the Mat of Pcrfia bears the fame fignification. 
 They are alib ufed to paint their fkins, as was done 
 by many people of the old and new woi'ld. They 
 knew what iron is, though they have none of it 
 they call it aurov., and aik for it with eagerneis. But 
 all thefe analogies tend little to the tracing of the ori^ 
 
 * He was brought from Otaheitie by MonJieur Bougainville in 
 1769 and (laid eleven months in Paris. T. 
 
 -\ Aotouru by the accounts of feverai Englifhmen who faw him 
 in Fiqnce, was very far fiom the intelligent man ddciibed by cur 
 auihcr. T. 
 
 J Aotouru hirnfelf told Monfieur Bougainville that an Englifh 
 fhip was at Otalieuie, near a twelvemonth befi re his arrival (here 
 and Monfieur Bougainville as plainly, as illiberally inJinuates, 
 that the Engliih introduced the venereal diieaie among thofe; 
 iflanders. T. 
 
 The author might have added the Italian ammazare, to kill. 
 T. 
 
 ginal
 
 VOYAGE to tie ISLE of FRANCE. 185 
 
 ginal of a nation. Follies, wants, and evils of hu- 
 man nature appear naturalized among all people. 
 A more certain mode of diftinction is the knowledge 
 of their languages. All nations in Europe eat bread ; 
 but the Ruffians call it Gleba, the Germans Broth, 
 the Latins Paris, the inhabitants of lower Britainy, 
 Bora. 
 
 feemed chagrined at his long flay in the 
 Ifle of France. He walked, but always alone. I 
 perceived him one day in a profound meditation, 
 looking at a black (lave at the door of the prifon, 
 round whofe neck they were rivetting a large chain. 
 It appeared a ftrange ipectacle to him, that a man of 
 his colour mould be thus treated by white people, 
 who had loaded him with benefits and prefents when 
 at Paris. But he knew not, that by their paffions, 
 men are carried acrofs the feas, and that the morality 
 by which they are influenced in Europe, within the 
 tropics, actuates them no longer.* 
 
 I embarked on the pth of November 1770, many 
 Malayans accompanied me to the fea- fide, and with 
 tears defired my fpeedy return. Thefe gcod people 
 never lofe the hope of feeing again thole who have 
 
 * To corroborate this opinion of the author's, I beg leave 
 to infert an extract from the hiflory of the conqueit of New 
 Spain, publifhed at Madrid in the year \6$z by Caitillo, 
 We bought three (hips of tfye governor of Cuba, who propo- 
 fed that we fhould pay him lor them with flaves, which we 
 were to bring from the fmall iflands between Cuba and Hon- 
 duras We rejected this propofaJ, telling him, that neither 
 God, nor the King had ordained thefe people, (by nature 
 free,) to be enilaved." Caftillo afterwards engaged with Cor- 
 tes, and accompanied him in his expeditions to Mexico, during 
 which there is no doubt but he got rid of thofe fcruples which 
 occafioned the above recited anfwer to the governor of Cuba. T. 
 
 done
 
 1 86 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 done them lervicc. I recognized among them a maf- 
 ter carpenter who had bought my books of geometry, 
 although he could fcarcely read. He was the only 
 man in the ifland who would have them. 
 
 WE were detained in the road eleven days by a calm, 
 The evening of the 2Oth we fet fail, and at three in 
 the afternoon of the 2 1 ft anchored in the road of St, 
 Dennis, at Bourbon. 
 
 THIS ifland is 40 leagues to the leeward of the I fie 
 of France. 'Tis one days fail only to Bourbon, but 
 a month is frequently fpent in returning. It appears 
 afar off, like a part of a fphere, with very high 
 mountains, the land of which is cultivated to the 
 height of 800 toifes, They reckon 1600 perpendicu- 
 lar toifcs to the fummit of the three Saiajfis, which are 
 three inacceffible pikes. 
 
 THE fhcre here is very fleep ; the feas roll with a 
 great furf, preventing all but pirogues from approach- 
 ing the land without being darned to pieces. At St. 
 Denis a draw-bridge is contrived for the unlading of 
 fioops, which projects more than fourfcore feet over 
 the lea, and is fuitained by iron chains. At the end 
 of this bridge there is a rope ladder, up which thofe 
 who would land, muft climb. There is this one 
 place only in the whole ifland, where any body can 
 land, without firft jumping into the fea. 
 
 As the Indien was to flay here three weeks to lade 
 coffee, feveral of the pafTengers propofed parTing 
 fome days on the ifland, and even waiting at St. Paul, 
 feven leagues to leeward, 'till the fliip fhould go thi- 
 ther to cornpleat her cargo. 
 
 PROVISIONS
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 187 
 
 PROVISIONS being fhort on board, I with the Cap- 
 tain and feveral officers of other veflels, joined with 
 them in this plan. 
 
 THE 25th in the afternoon I embarked alone in a 
 little yawl, and notwithftanding the breakers ran ve- 
 ry violently, by keeping the boats head to the lea, I 
 dilembarked at the bridge. We were an hour and an 
 half making this trip, which was not half a league. 
 
 I waited upon the commanding officer. He told 
 me there was no inn at St. Denis, nor in any part of 
 the ifland, and that ftrangers lodged with fuch of the 
 inhabitants as they had concerns with. Night came 
 on and having no traffick here, I prepared to return 
 aboard, when this officer offered me a bed. 
 
 I next payed my refpects to M. de Cremon, com- 
 mirTaire ordonateur who invited me to his houfe while I 
 ilaid on fhore. This was the more agreeable to me 
 
 ^J 
 
 as I wifhed to fee the volcano of Bourbon, to which 
 J knew M. de Cremon had once made an excurfion. 
 
 BUT I did not find an opportunity, the way is 
 very difficult few of the inhabitants know it, and 
 the journey would require an abfence of feven or eight 
 days, 
 
 FROM the 26th to the ^oth the fwell was fo great 
 that few of the boats ufed in the harbour came to 
 land. Our Captain availed himfelf of a fortunate 
 minute to get on board his fhip, whither his affairs 
 called him, but the bad weather prevented his re- 
 Banding. 
 
 THE
 
 iSS VOYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 THIS breeze, which always comes from the S. W. 
 rifes at 6 in the morning and ends at 10 at night. 
 While I ftaid, it blew with equal violence day and 
 
 night. 
 
 THE firft of December the wind fell, but there 
 role from the open fea a monftrous gale, which blew 
 upon the more with fuch violence that the centinel on 
 the bridge was obliged to quit his poft. 
 
 THE top of the mountains is covered with clouds, 
 very thick and motionkfs. The wind continued to 
 blow from the S. W. but the fea ran from the W. 
 Three large waves beat fuccefllvely over each other 
 and appeared along the coaft like three ranges of lit- 
 tle hills. From the upper part of them iflued fe- 
 veral jets deau which fell down again in white furf, 
 and rufhed violently upon the fliore forming an arch, 
 which rolling as it were round itfelf, foamed to a height 
 more than fifty feet perpendicular. 
 
 The air was fo heavy that we breathed with diffi- 
 culty, the fky was dark, clouc^s of fea-fowls came from 
 the main and took refuge on the land. The birds 
 and animals on more feemed difturbed. Even men 
 were feized with an inward horror at feeing a dreadful 
 tempeft in the midft of a calm. 
 
 ON the morning of the 2d the wind fell entirely, 
 andthefwellincreaied The rolling waves were more 
 numerous and came from a greater diftance. The 
 more, beaten by the fea, was covered with a white 
 mofs like fnow, which heaped together like packs of 
 wool. The veflels in the harbour rode very hard at 
 anchor. There was now no doubt but that the hur- 
 ricane approached. The pirogues which were on tht 
 Galet were drawn a great way upon land, and every 
 one Ipftened to fecure his houfe with cords and ropes. 
 
 THERE
 
 VOYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRANCE. 189 
 
 THERE lay at anchor L'Indien, Le Penthievre, 
 L'Alliancc, Le Grand Bourbon, Le Gerion, a Gau- 
 lette and a little boat. The more was lined with peo- 
 ple, drawn thither by the fpectacle the fea prefented, 
 and the danger of the mips. 
 
 ABOUT noon the fky loured prodigioufly and the 
 wind began to freihen from the S. E. We began to 
 fear that it would turn and blow from the W, and run 
 the vefTels afliore. From the battery, the fignal was 
 given them to depart, by hoifling the flag, and fi- 
 ring two guns with fhot in them. Immediately they 
 cut their cables and fet fail. The Penthievre not able 
 to fhip her boat, left it behind. L'Indien being an- 
 chored farther at fea, went before the wind with her 
 four principal fails. The reft got out as fait as they 
 could.. Some blacks who were on board a lhallop 
 took refuge on board the L' Amitie. The little boat 
 and the Gaulette were already in the rolling waves, 
 in which they were every now and then lolt to the 
 eye , they feemed fearful of putting to fea, but at 
 length, they allo hoifted fail, exciting uneafinefs and 
 prayers for their fafety, in all who beheld them. At 
 two hours end the whole of this fleet difappeared in 
 the N, W-. being invelop'd in a gloomy horizon. 
 
 ABOUT 3 in the afternoon the hurricane announced 
 itfelf by a moft tremendous noife , the wind blew 
 from all quarters fuccefllvely. The fea beaten 
 and agitated to the greateft degree threw upon the 
 land, clouds of foam, fand, fliells and ftones. Some 
 boats refitting at fifty paces from the water-fide were 
 buried under the furge. The wind carried away a fheet 
 of lead from the roof of the church, and the colo- 
 nade from the governors houfe. The hurricane laf- 
 ted all night ajid till 3 in the morning. 
 
 ON
 
 190 VOYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 ON the 6th, the two firft mips that returned to an- 
 chor were the little boat and the Gaukttc , they 
 brought a letter from the Penthievre which had lolt 
 lier top-gallant-mail. Themfelves had met with no 
 accident The loweft ftations are often the leaft 
 liable to misfortune. 
 
 The 8th, the Gerion appeared fhe had been dri- 
 ven fo near the Ifle of France that me put into the 
 harbour -, where fhe learnt that the Garronne Pink, 
 foundered while at anchor. 
 
 By about the i 8th we had tidings of all the mips, 
 except the Amide and the Indien. The fize and 
 ilrength of the Indien iecmed to fecure her againft 
 all events, and we did not doubt but that me would 
 continue her voyage to the Cape of Good Hope, 
 there, take in provifions, and go from thence to 
 France. Befides I knew this to be the Captain's 
 intention. 
 
 THE 1 9th in the morning, a fignal was made that a 
 (hip was in fight , it was the Normande, Pink ; fhe 
 palled by St. Denis, and anchored at St. Paul. She 
 came from the Ifle of France and was going to the 
 Cape for provifions. This opportunity was too fa- 
 vourable a one to be neglected by me and an officer 
 with me. Monlieur and Maclamoifelle Cremon 
 provided us with beds and linen for the voyage, 
 we got horfes and guides to go to St. Paul, and were 
 accompanied thither by a relation of Monfieur Cremon, 
 
 MY effects being yet on board the Indien, I was 
 deftitute of every thing except linen, which I had 
 brought on more with me. 
 
 WE fet out on the 2Oth at eleven in the morning, 
 we had feven leagues to go. The Pink was to fail in 
 the evening, and therefore having no time to lofe, 
 we took leave of our holts. OUR
 
 VOYAGE to lie ISLE OF FRANCE. 191 
 OUR horfes began forthwith to climb the mountain 
 
 C5 
 
 of St. Denis, by zig-zag paths, paved with fharp 
 ftones. They were very ftrong, and fure footed, 
 and, according to the cuftom of the country, they 
 were unihod. 
 
 AT two leagues and a half from St. Denis we 
 found under foine citron trees at the brink of a rivu- 
 let, a dinner, which M. de Cremon had caufed to be 
 provided for us. 
 
 AFTER dinner, we defcended and came to the Grand 
 Chaloupe. *Tis a frightful valley formed by two moun- 
 tains that are very iteep. We walked part of the way 
 which the rain had rendered dangerous, and at the bot- 
 tom we found ourfelves between the two mountains, 
 in the itrangeft folitude I had ever feen ; we were in a 
 manner between two walls, the heavens only being 
 over our heads : we crofted the rivulet and came at 
 length to the more oppofite to the CbaUupe : at the 
 bottom of this abyfs, there reigns an eternal calm, 
 however the winds blew on the mountains. 
 
 AT two leagues from St. Paul we entered into a 
 large plain of fand extending as far as the town, 
 which is built like St. Denis. There are large lawns 
 encompafied with hedges in regular rows, and in the 
 middle is the houfe were the family lives. Thefe 
 towns have the air of large villages. 
 
 ST. PAUL is fituated by the fide of a great lake of 
 frem water, of which a port might I apprehend be 
 made. 
 
 IT was night e'er our arrival there ; we were much 
 fatigued, and knew neither where to lodge, nor where 
 to get bread, there being no baker at St. Paul. 
 
 MY
 
 192 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 MY firft care was to fpeak with the Captain of the 
 Normande whom I luckily found on more. He told 
 us he would not venture to take us on board without 
 an order from the Governor of the Ifle of France, 
 who was then at St. Denis, and that he mould not 
 fail till next morning. 
 
 I immediately wrote to the Governor and to Ma- 
 damoifelle Cremon. I gave my two letters to a black, 
 promifmg to reward him if he returned by eight 
 o'clock next morning. It was then ten at night and 
 he had fourteen leagues to travel on foot. 
 
 I found out my comrades, who were fupping at the 
 ftore keepers. They lodged us in a houle belonging 
 to the King, unfurnifhed, except with chairs, of 
 which we made beds. We were up betimes. At 
 nine o'clock the anfwers to my letters were brought 
 by a black whom my meffenger had fent in his room. 
 What was our aftonifhment when we read that the 
 Governor had left the mailer to his difcretion. 
 
 AT laft after many negotiations and after having 
 given him bills of payment for our pafTage he agreed 
 to take us, and the departure of the Ihip was deferred 
 till next day. 
 
 THE following account is all I could collect rela- 
 tive to Bourbon. It is well known that the firft in- 
 habitants were pirates, who cohabited with negroe 
 women from Madagascar. They fixed here firft 
 about the year 1657. The India company had alfo 
 at Bourbon a factory, and a governor who lived with 
 them in great circumfpection. The Viceroy of 
 Goa came one day to anchor in the road of St. Denis 
 and was to dine with the Governor. He had fcarcely 
 
 fet
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 193 
 
 ifet his foot on more before a pirate fliip of fifty guns 
 anchored along fide his veflel and took her, The 
 Captain landed forthwith, and demanded to dine at 
 the Governors. He feated himfelf at table between 
 him, and the Portugueze Viceroy, to whom he de- 
 clared, that he was his prifoner. Wine and good 
 cheer having put the feaman in good humour, Mon- 
 tk'ur Desforges (the Governor) alked him at how 
 much he rated the Viceroy's ranfom. " I mud have 
 (f;:icl the Pirate) a thoufand piafters." That's too 
 little (laid Monfieur Desforges,) for a brave fellow 
 like you, to receive from a great Lord like him, 
 afk enough, or alk nothing." " Well, well, then I 
 afk nothing, (replied the generous Corfair) let him 
 be free." 
 
 THE Viceroy reimbarked inflantly, and fet fail, 
 happy at having efcaped on fuch good terms, This 
 piece of fervice of the Governor was recompenfed 
 fnortly after by the court of Portugal, who prefen- 
 ted his fon with the order of Chrift. 
 
 THE Pirate afterwards fettled on the ifland, and 
 was hanged, a confiderable time after an amnefty had 
 been publifhed in favour of his companions, and in 
 which he had failed to get himfelf included. This injuf- 
 ftice was the work of a * Confeiller^ who was defirous of 
 appropriating his fpoils to his own ufe. But this laft 
 Villain, a little while after, came to nearly as wretch- 
 ed an end, although the juflice of men did not reach 
 hhn. 
 
 It is not long, fince the lad of thefe pirates whole 
 name was Adam^ died, aged 104 years. 
 
 * In the Frcnth courts of judicature, the judges are called 
 
 Con/til/ers (Counfellors), and the Barrifteis, are called Avocatt 
 Advocates, T. 
 
 O WHEN
 
 194- VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 WHEN fnore peaceable occupations had foftened 
 their manners, there remained among them a fpirit 
 only of independance and of liberty, which correct- 
 ed itfelf ilill more in the fociety of many worthy 
 people who eftabli fried in Bourbon for the purpofe of 
 cultivation. Sixty thoufand blacks are reckoned to 
 live in Bourbon and only five thoufand inhabitants. 
 This ifhnd is thrice as populous as the lile of France, 
 on which it depends for its export traffick. It is 
 alib much better cultivated, having produced twenty 
 thoufand quintals of corn and as much of coffee, 
 befides rice and other provilions for home confump- 
 tion. Herds of oxen are not fcarce there. The 
 King pays * fifteen livres per Cwt. of corn, and the 
 inhabitants fell -f- a quintal of coffee for forty-five 
 livres in piaflres, and feventy livres in paper. 
 
 THE principal place in Bourbon is St. Denis, the 
 refidence of the governor and council. Nothing 
 worth remark is to be feen here except a redoubt 
 built of ftone, but fituated too far from the fea, 
 a battery before ' the governor's houfe, and the draw- 
 bridge before-mentioned. Near the town is a large 
 plain called Le Champ de Lorraine. 
 
 THE foil feemed to be more fandy at Bourbon than 
 at the lile of France : it is mixed at fome diftance 
 from land, with the fame kind of fmall pebbles with 
 which the fea fhore is covered, a proof that the fea 
 has withdrawn itfelf, or that the ifland is rifenout of the 
 ocean. This I think might be the cafe, if wemayjudge 
 from the mountains, which are full of chafms, and very 
 rugged and broken in their interior parts. When we 
 fpeculate upon nature, oppofite opinions always pre- 
 
 * About thirteen fhillings fterling. 
 t A quintal is equal to a cwt, Engliih. 
 
 fcnt
 
 V O Y A G E to tie ISLE OF FRANCE. 195 
 
 flnt themfelves with a nearly equal appearance of 
 probability. The fame effects frequently refult from 
 different caufes. This obfervation might be extend- 
 ed very far, and fhouid induce us to be very mode- 
 rate in our deciiions. 
 
 A man of eighty years of age aflured me that he had 
 been one of thole who took pofifeffion of the Ifle of 
 France when the Dutch abandoned it. Twelve 
 Frenchmen were detached for that purpofe, who 
 landed in the morning, and in the afternoon of the 
 fame day, an Engiiih ihip anchored there, for the 
 lame purpofe. 
 
 THE manners of the firfl inhabitants of Bourbon 
 were very limple, the greater number of the houfes 
 were not made to mut, a lock was a curiofity. Some 
 people even put their money in a tortoife-mell overtheir 
 door. They dreffed in blue cloth, went bare-footed, 
 and lived upon rice and coffee ; they imported but 
 little from Europe, content to live without luxury fo 
 they lived without want. Theyjoined to this moderation 
 the virtues which ever attend it : good faith in com- 
 merce, and gencrofity in their proceedings. As foon 
 as a ftranger appeared, the inhabitants came to him, 
 and as a ftranger offered him their houfes. 
 
 The laft war in the Indies has made a change in their 
 manners. The volunteers of Bourbon diitinguimed 
 themfelves in it by their bravery; but the ftuffs of Afia 
 and the military diftinctions of France, thereby got 
 footing in their ifland. The children, richer than their 
 parents require to be treated with more confideration. 
 They have now no enjoyment of an unnoticed good- 
 fortune, but feek in Europe, pleafures and honours, 
 in exchange for domeftic happinefs, and the quiet of 
 a eoimtry life. The attention of the fathers being 
 O 2 chiefly
 
 196 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 chiefly fixed upon their fons, they fend them to Francey 
 from whence they feldom return. Hence it is, that 
 in this ifland there are more than five hundred mar- 
 riageable girls, who are likely to die without hui- 
 bands. 
 
 We went on board the Nor mande on the 2 1 ft in 
 the evening. We found a cafe of wines, of liquors, 
 coffee, &c. which Monfieur and Madernoifclie Cre- 
 mon had caufed to be put on board for our ufe. 
 We were received at their houfe with the hofpitality 
 of the ancient inhabitants of Bourbon, and the po- 
 litenefs of Parifians, 
 
 I am, &c. 
 BOURBON, December 21, 1770, 
 
 LET-
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 197 
 
 LETTER XX. 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM BOURBON, 
 ARRIVAL AT THE CAPE. 
 
 WE left the bay of St. Paul at ten 
 o'clock at night. The fea here is calmer, 
 and the anchorage farer than at St. Denis, the road 
 of which is fpoiled by a vaft number of anchors left 
 there by mips. Their cables cut prefently. Yet the 
 ieamen prefer St. Denis. 
 
 When the wind blows into the bay of St. Paul, 
 
 there is no getting out of it, and if a vefiel mould 
 
 run on more, me muft certainly be loft ; the fea 
 breaking upon a very high fand. 
 
 On the 23d we loft fight of Bourbon. The fervt- 
 ces we had received from Monfieur and Mademoifelle 
 de Cremon while we ftaid, the fair winds, a good 
 table, and the company of Monfieur de Roflbos our 
 captain condoled us for our difappointment in not 
 finding the Indienne, 
 
 WE pitied the paflengers on board of her, who 
 had to undergo at once, very bad weather, and want 
 of provifions. 
 
 O 3 THEY
 
 j 9 S VOYAGE to tfa Is j, E ot FR ANCE . 
 
 THEY reckon ninety leagues from Bourbon to the 
 Cape. On the 6th of January 1/71, in the morn- 
 ing we faw Point Natal ten leagues a head of us. 
 In three days we hoped to be on board the Indienne. 
 We went before the wind aM the way till Monday. 
 It fell calm in the evening, and was iultry hot. At 
 midnight it light'ned prodigioufiy, and the horizon 
 was every where covered witn large and heavy black 
 clouds. The fea fhone with the fifhes which played 
 round our fliip. 
 
 At three in the morning a contrary wind blew 
 from the W. with fuch violence that it obliged us to 
 make for the Cape under our mizen. The tempeft 
 drove on board of us a little bird like a titmouie. 
 The coming of land birds on board of fliips is al- 
 ways a fign of bad weather, as it proves that the vi- 
 olence of the florin extends far over the land. 
 
 ON the third dsy e the ftorm v/e perceived that. 
 our mizen-mail was fprung four fce-t above the yard 
 we reefed the fails, ftrengthened the mail with ropes 
 aftd tofets -of weed, ad itood for the Cape under a 
 mainfail. 
 
 THE fea was tremendous and hid the horizon from 
 u?.. We were much lurprized to fee within cannon- 
 ing a Dutch veflirl ikerrng ac v/e clid. It was im- 
 pofiiblt to Ipeak \vita her -, the fifrh day the wind 
 abated. The rnizcn-niail was examined, and found 
 able a?oksn through.. Tiiis acccident cauled 
 
 i! to reciuubk: our efforts .to reach die Cape. 
 
 THE bad weather occa%med us to lofe way, which 
 the calm now >rc*ented our recovering. 
 
 ON
 
 VOYAGE to tbn ISLE OF FRANCS. 199 
 
 ON the twelfth we again faw the Dutch fhip, and 
 fpoke to her. She very warily came up to us with 
 her matches alight, and her guns run out : (he came 
 from Batavia, and was going to the Cape. 
 
 AT length on the flxtecnth of January we faw the 
 Cape, over our {larboard quarter. We beat about 
 all night. On the feventcenth in the morning a vio- 
 lent gale blew. The air was darkened with a thick 
 fog, which totally hid the land. We were near mif- 
 fing the entrance of the bay when we perceived in a 
 part which cleared up for a moment, a corner of the 
 table mountain. We directly loughed up, and about 
 noon found ourfelves near the coait, which is very 
 high. Jt is entirely bare of trees ; the higher part 
 riles to a point, formed by the declivities of parallel 
 rocks i it refembles the walls of an old fortification 
 with their talus. 
 
 WE came under the land. At nio-ht we found 
 
 O 
 
 ourfelves behind the lion mountain, which at a dif- 
 tance appears like a lion couchant. The head is 
 formed by a great rock, and detached from the body, 
 which is compoled of the ridges of different hills. 
 From the head of the lion, they give fignals to mips. 
 
 Here the wind failed us, being flickered from it 
 by the lion. We were forced, in order to enter the 
 bay, to pafs between the iiland of Roben, which we 
 faw before us on our left, and a neck of land called 
 the point, which is found at the foot of the lion. 
 We were within two cannon-mot, and our impatience 
 redoubled. From hence we could perceive the fhips 
 in the road, and the Indienne could npt be the lealt 
 remarkable among them. 
 
 Q 4
 
 aoo VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 AT laft the tide making, we faw, from the tops, 
 twelve veflels fuccefliveJy appear, which were lying 
 at anchor. But none of them had French colours. 
 It was the Dutch fleet. 
 
 We caft anchor at the mouth of the bay. At 
 three in the afternoon, the Commandant of the bay 
 came on board, and allured us that the Indienne had 
 not appeared. 
 
 At the bottom of the bay we faw the table moun- 
 tain, which is the higeft land on this coaft. Its top 
 is level, and fteep on all fides, like an altar -. the city 
 is at the foot of it, upon the edge cf the bay. There 
 frequently gathers upon the table, a thick fog, heap- 
 ed up as it were, and white as fnow. When this 
 happens, the Dutch fay, the cloth is laid. 
 
 THE Commandant of the bay hoi(ls his flag, as a 
 fignal for the veffels to be upon their guard, and a 
 prohibition for the (loops to put to lea. From this 
 cloth dcfcend whirlwinds mingled with fog like long 
 flakes of wool. The earth is covered with clouds of 
 fhnd, and mips are often forced to fet fail. This gale 
 Seldom rifes in this feafon but at about ten in the 
 morning, and laits till evening. Sailors are very 
 fond of the land at the Cape, but arc afraid of the road, 
 which is moil dangerous from April to September. 
 
 IN 1722 the whole India fleet periihed at anchor, 
 except two mips. Since that time no Dutch fhip is 
 allowed to anchor there after the fixth of March. 
 They "go ttfFalfe-bay, where they are under Ihelter. 
 
 AN attempt was made to have formed the road in- 
 to a harbour with only one opening, by joining the 
 point aiipwdus to the ifle of Roben j but it did not 
 "ktccecd.
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 201 
 
 I hoped to have landed that evening, but was pre- 
 vented by 'a breeze from off the land. 
 
 EARLY in the morning the Normande anchored 
 nearer to the town. It is compofed of white {tones 
 in ftrait rows, which at a diftance look like houfes 
 built with cards. 
 
 AT fun rife, three fhallops very prettily painted 
 came on board us. They were fent by the town's- 
 people, who invited us to land and lodge among 
 them. I went on board a Ihallop of a German's, 
 who affured me that for my money I mould be well 
 accommodated at Monfieur Nedling's. 
 
 IN our way acrofs the road, I reflected upon the 
 fingular fituation I was in , to find myfelf, without 
 clothes, money, or acquaintance, among Hollanders, 
 r.t the very extremity of Africa. But my reflections 
 were interrupted by a fpeftacle quite new to me. We 
 paflcd by a number of fea-calves, Iving at their eafe 
 upon floats of fea-weed, like the long horns with 
 v.-hich fhepherds call their flocks together : Penguins 
 fwam quietly within reach of pur oars ; fea fowls 
 came and perched upon the fhallop, and on my land- 
 ing upon the fand I even faw two pelicans at play with 
 a large maftiff, and taking his head into their great 
 beak. 
 
 J conceived a good opinion of a land, in which 
 hofpitality and good will mewed themfelves fo con- 
 fpicuoufly even among the brute creation. 
 
 CAPE OF GOOD-HOPE, January 10, ijji. 
 
 LET.
 
 202 VOYAGE to the ISLE of FRANCE, 
 
 LETTER XXI. 
 
 Of the CAPE, our excurfion to CONSTANCE 
 and the TABLE MOUNTAIN. 
 
 THE flreets at the Cape are very ftrak, Come of 
 them are watered with canals and mofi of them 
 planted with chefnut trees. It was very pleafmg to. 
 fee them covered with leaves in the month of Janua- 
 ry. The front of the houfes were fhaded with their 
 foliage, and at the two (ides of the doors were feats 
 of brick or turf, on many of which fat ladies with 
 clear and ruddy complexions. I was rejoiced, at 
 once more feeing the countenances and the architecture 
 of Europeans. 
 
 I walked through fome part of the place, with my 
 guide, to Madame Nedling's, a fat Dutchwoman, 
 who was very fprightly. She was drinking tea a- 
 mong feven or eight officers of the fleet, who were 
 fmoaking their pipes. She fhewed me a very neat 
 apartment and allured me that every thing in her 
 kouft w.as at my feryicc. 
 
 WHEN a man has feen one Dutch town he has feen 
 them all : 'tis the fame here, the order cf each houie 
 is alike. The cuftom of Madame Nedling's was 
 this, there was always company in the parlour, and 
 a table covered with peaches, melons, apricots, rai- 
 iins, pears, chetfe, frefh butter, wine, pipes and 
 
 tobacco.
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 203 
 
 and tobacco. At eight o'clock tea and coffee is rea- 
 dy for breakfaft. At noon they have game and fifh 
 in plenty for dinner at four they drink coffee and 
 tea, at eight they have a flipper as plentiful as their 
 dinner, Thefe good people are eating from morn- 
 ing till ni_ihi. 
 
 E expence of boarding in this manner, was for- 
 merly no more than halt a piaftre, or fifty French 
 ibis (a trifle more than two fhiilings) per day, but 
 foine French orncers of the marine, in order to diilinr 
 guiih theinlelvts from other nations, raifed the price 
 to a piaftre, which is now common'y paid. 
 
 THIS price is enormous, when we confider the 
 great plenty of provifions ; it is true, that more 
 elegance is to be found here than in our bed taverns. 
 The fcrvants of the houfe are at your command ; you 
 may invite whom you pleafe, and may pafs ibme days 
 at your landlord's country-houfe, and have the life of 
 jiis carriage, without any additional expence. 
 
 AITER dinner I went to fee Monfieur Tolbac, the 
 Governor, a man of eighty years of age, whofc me- 
 rit procured him this government fifty years ago. 
 He invited me to dinner the next day. I had ap- 
 prized him of my fituation, of which he feemed very 
 ienfibk. 
 
 I THEN walked in the Company's garden -, it is 
 .divided into four quarters, and watered by a rivulet. 
 Each quarter is bordered by a row of chefout-trees, 
 twenty feet high. Thefe pallifadoes flicker the plants 
 from the wind, which always blows hard ; they have 
 even had the precaution to defend the young trees of 
 the avenues, by a fcreen of reeds. 
 
 I SAW
 
 204 VOYAGE to the 1: LI OF FP.A?;CE. 
 
 I SAW in this garden the plants of Afia and Africa, 
 but particularly the trees of Europe, covered v/ith 
 fruits at a kafon when I lad never before feen lc: 
 on them. 
 
 , I RECOLLECTED that an Officer in the King's fer- 
 vice, named the Vifcount du Chaila, had at my leav- 
 ing the lile of France, given me a letter for Monfieur 
 clu Berg, Secretary of the Council. This letter was 
 in my pocket, having had no time to put it among 
 my other papers on board the Indienne, I therefore 
 waited on Monfieur de Berg, and delivered it to him. 
 
 HE received me very cordially, and as he made me 
 an offer of his purfe, I made ufe of his credit for 
 fuch things as I absolutely wanted. I afked him if 
 I could not procure a paffage on board an India fhip, 
 fix of which were then going away, and the other fix 
 were to go in the beginning of March. 
 
 HE allured me it was impOiTible -, that the Dutch 
 India Company had abfciuteiy forbidden it. Indeed 
 the Governor had told me as much, I was therefore 
 reduced to the neceflity of ftaying at the Cape tik 
 ibme other opportunity offered of getting away. 
 
 AN unforefeen accident had brought me thither, 
 and I hoped for another that mould carry me away 
 again. 
 
 HOWEVER, the fociety of a good tempered and 
 happy fet cf people, added to the plenty of every fort 
 of provifions, made my confinement very fupport- 
 able. 
 
 MONSIEUR de Berg's fon invited me to go to Con- 
 Stance, a famous plantation of vineyards, fituated 
 
 about
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 205 
 
 :Jbout four leagues off. We flept at his country- 
 houie, bthinu the table-mountain, at two fhort leagues 
 diilance from the town. We walked thither through 
 ;i beautiful avenue of chefnut-trees. We faw there 
 vineyards, ripe for vintage orchards, chelhut-groves, 
 and a very great abundance of fruits and vegetables. 
 
 THE next day we continued our route to Con- 
 ftance -, it is a litile hill, rifmg to the north (which is 
 here the fide of the fun at noon). On our approach, 
 we paifed through a v/ood ox' filver trees, (rirbres 
 & Argent ;) They rdcmble the pine-tree, have a leaf 
 like the willow, and are covered with a white down, 
 which is very ihining. 
 
 THIS foreft feemed to be all of filver. When the 
 wind blew them about and the fun mone, each leaf 
 glittered like a plate of metal. We walked through 
 thefe groves, fo rich and fo delightful, in order to 
 look at the vines, which though lefs iplendid in ap- 
 pearance, are of far greater utility. 
 
 A BROAD avenue of old chefnut-trees conducted us 
 to the vineyard of Conftance. Over the front of the 
 houie we faw a vile painting of a ftrapping girl, and 
 ugly enough, reclining on a pillar. I took it for a 
 Dutch allegorical figure of chaftity : but they told 
 me it was the portrait of a Madam Conftantia, daugh- 
 ter of a Governor of the Cape. He caufed this houfe 
 to be built with deep ditches round it like a fortifica- 
 tion. He propofed to raife it a ftory or two higher, 
 but was prevented by orders from Europe. 
 
 WE found the matter of the houfe fhioking his 
 pipe in his night-gown. He carried us into his 
 cellar, and made us tafte his wine. It was in little 
 calks called atverames, containing about ninety pints, 
 
 ranged
 
 206 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 ranged very regularly under ground. There were 
 thirty of them. This vineyard, in common years, 
 produces two hundred. He iells the red wine at thir- 
 ty-five piaftres per alverame, and the white for thirty. 
 The eitate is his own, conditionally, that he fhall re- 
 ferve fome wine yearly for the Company, who pay 
 him for it. This he told us himfelf. 
 
 HAVING tafted his wine, we went into his vine- 
 yard. The tafte of the mufcadine grapes was per- 
 fectly like that of the wine. The vine,? are not upon 
 efpalieres, and the grapes are but a little way from 
 the ground. They let them ripen till the fruit is 
 about half preferved by the fun. We tafted another 
 fort of raifms, whicli are very iweet, but not mufca- 
 dine. They make a wine of them which is of an 
 extravagant price, but is a very fine cordial. 
 
 THE Conftance wine, derives its quality from the 
 particular nature of the foil. They have planted the 
 fame (locks, and treated them in the fame manner at 
 a place called Lower-Conftance, a quarter of a league 
 from hence but they have degenerated ; as I perceived 
 when I tafted them. The price, as well as the tafte 
 is very inferior, it being fold for twelve piaftres the 
 alverame ; there are fome knaves at the Cape, who 
 fometimes are too fharp for ftrangers in this parti* 
 cular. 
 
 NEAR the vineyard is a garden of immenfe ex- 
 tent, I faw in it, moft of our fruit-trees, in hedges 
 and efpaliers, loaded with fruit. They are rathef 
 inferior to ours, except the grape, which I prefer. 
 The olives here are not pleaiant. 
 
 WHEN we returned from ovir walk, we found a 
 plentiful breakfaft ; our landlady overwhelmed us 
 
 with
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 207 
 
 with kindnefs , flie defcended from a French refugee*, 
 and fecmed in raptures at the fight of one of her 
 countrymen. Her hulband and (he fhewed me a 
 large hollow chefnut-tree, before the door of the 
 houfe 'in which they fometimes dined. Their union 
 was like that of Baucis and Philemon^ nor were they 
 Ids happy, except that the hufband had the gout, 
 and the wife cried when any body fpoke of France. 
 
 FROM Conflance to the Cape you travel through 
 an uncultivated plain, covered with fhrubs and plants. 
 We flopped at Neuhafen, one of the Company's 
 gardens ; 'tis laid out as thofe in the town are, 
 but is more fertile. All this part, is not expofed to 
 the wind, like the territory of the Cape where fo 
 much duft is blown up, that moft of the houfes 
 have double fafhes to the windows, to fecure them. 
 In the evening we arrived at the town. 
 
 SOME days after, my landlord, Monfieur Nedling, 
 invited me to his country-houfe, near that of Mon- 
 fieur de Berg. We fet out in his voiture, (whether 
 coach or cart dees net appear) drawn by fix horfes. 
 We pafled many days there in the moil delightful 
 tranquillity. The ground was ftrewed with peaches, 
 pears, and oranges, which nobody gathered ; the 
 walks were maded with moft beautiful trees. I 
 meafured a chefnut-tree, which was eleven feet in 
 circumference ; it is faid to be the moft ancient tree 
 in the whole country. 
 
 THE gd of February my hoft propofcd to fome 
 Hollanders, to go upon Tableberg, a fteep moun- 
 
 * The Abbe de la Caille fays, that the French tongue was no 
 longer fpoken among thedefcendants of the Refugees, except by 
 the few then alive, who were the immediate children of thofc who 
 left France, between the years 1680, and 1690. T. 
 
 tain,
 
 2t>8 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 tain, at whofe foot, the town appears to ftand. 7 
 was of the party. We fet out at two o'clock in the 
 morning, on foot. The moon fhone very bright. 
 We left on our right a rivulet, which runs from the 
 mountain, and directed our courfe to an opening in 
 the middle, and which appeared from the town like 
 a chafm in an old wall. On our way we heard fome 
 wolves howl, and fired feveral guns to difperfe them. 
 The way is rugged to the foot of the mountain, but 
 from thence upwards, is much more fo. The leem- 
 ing apertute in the table, is an oblique feparation, of 
 more than mufquet-mot wide at its lower entrance , 
 above, it is not more than two toifes. This cavity is 
 like a very fteep (lair-cafe, rilled with fand and loofe 
 pieces of rocks. We climbed it, having to the right 
 and left, precipices two hundred feet high. Great 
 mafiy pieces of ftone project, and are ready to roll 
 down. The water drops from the cracks of the- 
 rocks, and nou rimes a variety of aromatic plants. 
 We heard during this excurfion, the howlings of ba- 
 vians, a fort of large monkeys, refembling bears, 
 
 AFTER three days and a half's fatigue, We feachect' 
 the top of the table. The fun rofe over the fea, 
 and ks rays enlightened on our right-hand, the 
 fteep fummits of the tiger, and of four other chains 
 of mountains, the moft diilant of which feemed the 
 higheft. On our left, and a little behind us, we 
 faw, as upon a plan, the I He of Penguins, then 
 Conftance, Falfe-Bay, and the Lion-Mountain : be- 
 fore us was the Jfie of Roben. The town was at 
 our feet. We diftinguimed even the fmalleft ftreets 
 of it. The vaft fquares of the Company's garden, 
 with its avenues of chefnuts, and its lofty efpaliers, 
 appeared but as a parterre, with borders of box ; the 
 citadel as a little pentagon, the fize of one's hand, 
 and the India (hips, as walnut-Ihells, I felt a kind 
 
 of
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 209 
 
 of pride at the thoughts of my elevated ftation, 'till 
 1 law eagles hovering above me, fo high, that they 
 were nearly out of fight. 
 
 AFTER all, it would have beeri impofTible to have 
 thought, bun with contempt of iuch trifling objects, 
 and efpecially of men who appeared to us like ants, 
 if we had not felt the fame wants as ever. We. were 
 cold and hungry. A fire was kindled, and we break- 
 fatted. After breakfaft, our Dutchmen hoifted a 
 cloth at the end of a ftick, as a iignal of our arrival : 
 but in about half an hour they took it down, left it 
 mould be miftaken for a French fag. The fummit 
 of Tableberg, is a plain flat rock, which I take to 
 be about half a league long, and about a quarter 
 broad. 'Tis a fpecies of white quarry, covered here 
 and there, with about an inch or two's depth cf black 
 mould, mixed with land and Y/h/te travel. We 
 found ibme little pools of water, for/red by the 
 clouds, which frequently are flopped here, 
 
 THE ftrata of this mountain are parallel ; I could 
 find no fofils there. The lower rock is a kind of 
 brown free-ftone, which turns to land if expofed 
 to the air. Some pieces of it referable pieces of 
 bread, with their cruft. Although the foil of the 
 fummit has fo very little depth, it grows a prodi- 
 gious number of plants. 
 
 I GATHERED fix fpecies of the i)'jmorta j s^ fome 
 fmall myrtles, a filex, which fmells like tea, a flower 
 like the imperial, of a line purple-colour, and many 
 others whole names I did not know. I found there, 
 a plant, whofe flower is red, but without fmell by 
 its appearance, one would have thought it a tubercle. 
 Kach ftalk has two or three leaves turned up toge- 
 ther, and holding a little water. The moft iingular 
 
 P of
 
 2io VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 of all, becaufe unlike to any vegetable I had ever 
 feen, is a flower, round like a rofe, of the fize of 
 a fhilling, and entirely flat. This flower glitters with 
 the utmoil brilliancy It has neither ftalk nor leaf 
 It grows very thick upon the gravel, to which it is 
 held by imperceptible fibres. When taken up into 
 the hand, nothing can be perceived but a (limy fub- 
 itance. 
 
 HERE are five entire plants, which feem to aftect 
 in this configuration, a refemblance to only one part 
 of what is common to other plants. Firft the Noitoc, 
 which is only a fap, as it were , fecondly a chevelu, 
 (a fmall root or fibre ifiuing from another root) 
 which grows upon the tops of nettles , thirdly, 
 a lichen, or mofs, refemblmg a leaf; fourthly, the 
 ingulated flower of the t^ble-hill fifthly, the trufie 
 of Europe, which is a fruit. I might add, the root 
 of the groffe (or grofTo) of the ifje ot France, if it was 
 not an initance by itfelf. 
 
 I AM much inclined to believe, that nature has 
 adopted this plan among animals. I know many, 
 marine ones, eipecially, which in form refemble the 
 members only of other animals. 
 
 IN my walk, I reached the extremity of the table, 
 from whence I hailed the appearance of the Atlantic 
 Ocean, for having doubled the Cape of Good Hope, 
 you are no longer in the Indian ocean. I did homage 
 to the memory of Vafco de Gama, who dared firft to 
 go round this promontory of tcmpcfts. All maritime 
 nations mould have combined to erccl a ftatue of him 
 at this place, before which I would moil willingly havq 
 madealibationofConftancewine,in honour of hisheroic 
 perfeverance. It is however doubtful, whether Gama 
 was the firft who opened a commerce with the Indies 
 
 by
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 21 r 
 
 by the Cape of Good Hope. Pliny lays, that Hanno 
 went round from the lea of Spain as far as Arabia, as 
 may be feen, lays he further, by the memoirs he has 
 left of that voyage in writing. Cornelius Nepos * 
 declare ., he had fee-n a Captain of a fliip, who flying 
 from the anger of King jLathyrus, went from the Red 
 Sea to Spain. And long before this, even C<elius 
 Antipater, affirmed, that he had known a Spanifh, 
 merchant who traded by fea to /Ethiopia. 
 
 HOWEVER this be, the Cape, fo terrible to mari- 
 x ners for its tempeilupus fea, is a vail mountain, 
 lituated fixteen leagues from hence -, it gives its name 
 to this town, notwithstanding fo far off. - It ter- 
 minates the moll fouthern part of Africa. In trea- 
 ties, it is looked upon a,s a point, beyond which, 
 naval captures are lawful many months after the 
 have been at peace in Europe-. 
 
 PEACE has frequently been feen here on the right, 
 and war on the left hand between Hags of the fame- 
 nations -, but it has been more often feen, that they 
 have maintained a good underitanding in thefe roads, 
 when difcora has reigned in every place elfe through- 
 
 * Neco, KingofEgypr, Tent out forne Phoenicians flvps with 
 orders to go down the Rcd-iea, and hiving pone round ther.ce 
 to ilic north- iea in icturn home t- rouh the Pillars of Hercules. 
 I hey la:>deu in A'rica, fovvfd corn, waited tho harfeit, and 
 then again embark-.-tl, they diJ the like the year fo lowjnp, and 
 in the coiirfe of the third year landfd in 1'gypt, havingpaflet), as 
 directed, between t'-'.c llercul.-an columns, and through the Medi^, 
 t-rr.mean f;a. - Herodotus, from whom this account is ta- 
 ken, fnys, " On (lu ir return they related, what, if others give 
 " ere Jit T to, 1 confefs I cannot, \'n.. that, in their way round 
 " Africa, th fun was on t .fir right-h;ind." T. See HUKOD. 
 4. book, for thr account of t'A; ;.T\ diiio'-., and cf another undntaktit 
 
 P 2 OUt
 
 4 12 VOYAG E to tbe ISLE OF FRANCE, 
 
 out the two hemifpheres. I could not but behold 
 with admiration, this happy (hore, which war has 
 never yet made defolate , and which is inhabited by 
 a people, ufcful to the whole world, from the re- 
 fources of its ceconomy, and the extent of its com- 
 merce. The difpofitions of men are not entirely de- 
 pendent Upon the climate they live in , nor is this 
 wife and peaceable nation indebted for their man- 
 ners to the foil of their country. Piracy, and civil 
 wars agitate the Regencies of Algiers, Morocco, and 
 Tripoli -, but at the other extremity of Africa, the 
 Dutch have eftablimed a iettlement blefled with agri- 
 culture and concord. 
 
 I BEpuiLED my walk by thefe pleating reflections, 
 fo rarely to be made in any other part of the world ; 
 but the heat of the fun obliged me to feek for a Ihel- 
 ter. There is none but at the entrance of the ravin. 
 Here I found my companions repofmg by the fide of 
 a fpring. As they began -to grow tired, they deter- 
 mined upon" returning. It was high noon. We de^- 
 fcended, fome by fitting down and fuffering them- 
 felves to flide, others-, upon their hands and knees. 
 The rocks and fand gave way when we trod upon 
 them. .The fun was nearly vertical, and the rays 
 reflected from the collateral rocks^ made the heat 
 almoft infupportable. We frequently quitted the 
 path, and fled to the made of fome point of the rock 
 to take breath. My knees failed j and I had a vio- 
 lent thirft upon me : towards the evening we ar- 
 rived at the town. Madame Nedling expected us> 
 and had prepared refreshments againil our return. 
 We had lemonade, with nutmeg and wine in it.' 
 Of this we drank without danger, and went to bed. 
 No excurfion had ever proved fo entertaining to 
 me, nor was reft ever before fo welcome. 
 CAPE OF GOOD-HOPE, Feb. 6, 1771. 
 
 LET-
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLZ OF FRANCE. 313 
 
 LETTER XXII. 
 
 -Qualities of the AIR and SOIL of the CAPE OF 
 GOOD-HOPE. 
 
 PLANTS, INSECTS, and ANIMALS. 
 
 TH E air of the Cape is very healthy. It is re- 
 fremed by the fouth-ealt winds, which are fo 
 cold, even in the midft of fummer, that cloth is worn 
 here all the year round. Its latitude is, notwith- 
 ftanding thirty-three degrees fouth. But I am per- 
 fuaded that the fouth pole is much colder than the 
 north. 
 
 THERE are but few diforders incident to the peo- 
 ple of the Cape. The fcurvy is foon cured, altho* 
 there are no lea turtles. But the fmali-pox on the 
 other hand, makes moil dreadful ravages, many 
 of the inhabitants are deeply fcarred with it. It is 
 reported to have been introduced here by a fhip 
 from Denmark. Mod cf the Hotentots who caus-ht; 
 
 O ' 
 
 it, died. Since which time, they are reduced to a 
 very fmall number, and they ieldom come down 
 to the town. 
 
 THE foil of the Cape is a fandy gravel, mingled 
 with a white earth. I don't know whether preci- 
 ous minerals are a part of its productions. The 
 
 P 3 Putch
 
 214 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FIIANCE. 
 
 Dutch formerly hud gold mines at L; ; goa, in the 
 in-eights of Moiambique, and had alib a fettiemvnt 
 there, but were forced to abandon it, on account of 
 the badnefs of the air *. 
 
 I HAVE lien at the houfe of the Fort-Major, a ful- 
 phureous earth, in v/hich were pieces of wood, re- 
 duced to a cinder \ alio true '<.yp]uvn, and black cubes 
 of all fizes, united as it were by amalgamation, with- 
 out having loft their ill ape. Theie laft are believed 
 to be iron ore. 
 
 I SAW no tree peculiar to the country but the tree 
 cf gold, and tree of filvcr, the wood of v/hich is on- 
 ly tit to burn. The former differs from the latter in 
 nothing but the colour of its leaf, which is yellow. 
 There are fa id to be forefts of t-hde within land , but 
 in this part, the ground is covered with a variety of 
 flowering, and other ihrubs. This confirms my opi- 
 nion, that they flourifh only in a temperate air, their 
 calice being formed to imbibe no more than, a moderate 
 neat. 
 
 AMKJXG -the plants which feemed inofl worthy of 
 notice, cxclulivc of thcie already mentioned, are, a 
 red flower, which rdembics a tutted butterfly, with 
 legs, four wings, and a tail. A. ipecies of hyacinth, 
 with a long ftalk, all the flowers of which are formed 
 at the top, like the buds o/ the imperial: another 
 bulbous flower, growing in the marfhes , it is like a 
 large red tulip, in the center of which is a multitude 
 of iimll flowers. 
 
 A SHRUB, whofe flower refembks a large artichoak^ 
 of a fleili colour. Another common fhrub, of which 
 
 * Bad irtderd is that air whick'will drive a Putchnian from a 
 gold in inc. '/".. 
 
 the
 
 VOYAGES to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 215 
 
 they make beautiful hedges : It bears clufters of pa- 
 pilionaceous flowers of a rofe-colour. They are iuc- 
 ceeded by leguminous gruins. 
 
 I BROUGHT fome of them to planr in France, which 
 flood the winter in 177?! and vegetated in the King's 
 garden in 1772, 
 
 AMONG the infeb I have fecn here, is a beautiful 
 red gralshopper, ^x-ckled with black ; fome very 
 fine butterflies, and another very fmgular infect -, 
 'tis a little brovn fcaruUuu.s, and runs very fall ; 
 when attempted to be taken, it emits with nolle a 
 wind, followed by a little finoak ; if the linger is 
 touched by this vapour, a brown llain enfues, which 
 laits fome days. He repents this operation many 
 times fucceiliyely. The inhabitant call it the can 
 nonier. 
 
 THS Humming-Bird is r 4 ot uncommon here. I 
 faw one of the ilzc qi a walnut, of a changeable green 
 colour on the b^lly. It had a collar of red feathers, 
 which flione upon his rtomach like rubies , its wings 
 were brown, like a fparrow's, and appeared upon 
 his beautiful plumage like a furtout. His beak v/as 
 black, of a good length, and being curved, was of a 
 proper fhape to leek for honey in die bofom of flow- 
 ers. It had a long and taper tongue. It lived leve- 
 ral days. I faw it cat flies, nnd drink fugared water. 
 But as it was attempting to bathe in the cup fet for 
 that purpofc, its feathers adhered together, and the 
 fame night the muiquitos devoured it. 
 
 I HAVE feen fome birds of the colour of fire, with 
 a belly and hc.id like black velvet j they become 
 brown in the winter. Some of them change colour 
 thrice a year. There is alfo a bird of Paradife, but 
 
 P 4
 
 ?i6 VOYAGE to tl:e ISLI: CF FRANCE. 
 
 not fo beautiful as thofe I faw in Alia. I did not 
 fee one of thefe alive. The Gardner's Friend^ and a 
 kiiid of Twins are frequently found in gardens. I 
 wifhed to have taken a (ja : (i')Ui '.r briexd to Europe, 
 it would have been of great ,'rrvice there. I cbierved 
 it to be conftantly employed in catching caterpillars, 
 and hooking them upon the thorns on the bufh.es. 
 
 HERE are eagles, and another bird very near of 
 the fame fpecies. It is called the Secretary, having 
 round its neck a row of long quills, fit for writing 
 with. It has this particularity, that it cannot (land 
 upright on its legs, which are long, and covered with 
 fc'ales. It lives upon ferpents only. The length or: 
 its claws renders it very capable of feizing them, and 
 this ruff-of feathers round" its neck, protects it from 
 their bites. This bird alfo ought- to be naturalized 
 amongft us. The ofbrich is very common here ; 
 they offered me young ones at a crown each. I have 
 eaten of their ei_'gs, which are far inferior to thofe of 
 pullets. The Cafifir is found here, and is covered 
 v/ith coarfe hair inftead of feathers. There is a pro- 
 digious number of lea birds, of the names and na- 
 tures of which, I am entirely ignorant. The eggs 
 ].aid by penguins are thought much of, but I 
 did not think them extraordinary. They have this 
 fmgular quality, that the white being boiled, con- 
 tinues always tranfparent. . 
 
 THE fea abounds in fifh, which I thought better 
 than that cf the I (lands, but inferior to' that of 
 1'uropc. We find on the fhore fome Ihells, the 
 paper-nautilus, the meclulVs-head, fome lepas, and 
 very beautiful iithophytes, which when arranged up- 
 on pap r, repreient trees, brown, faffron, and pur- 
 ple. They are, fold to travellers. I faw a fifh here, 
 of tbe fize and fhape of the blade of a flemifh knife. 
 
 It
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 217 
 
 It was filvered over and marked naturally on each 
 fide with the impreffion of two fingers ; here are fea- 
 calves, whales, lea-cows, cod r and a great variety of 
 other common fifh, of which I mail not fpeak, my 
 obfervations having been but few, and my knowledge 
 of ichthyology, but flight. 
 
 THERE is very common here, a fpecies of moun- 
 tain turtle, with yellow fhells, marked with black -, 
 they are fit for no ufe whatever. There are porcu- 
 pines, and marmots, which differ from ours in form ; 
 flags and deer are in plenty, as alfo wild afles, zebras, 
 &c. An Englifh engineer, fome years ago killed 
 here a giraffe, or cameleopard, an animal fixteen 
 feet hi Hi, that browzes on the leaves of trees. 
 
 O * 
 
 THE lavian^ is a large monkey, made like a bear. 
 The nature of the monkey feems to have an analogy 
 with that of every clafs of animals. I remember to 
 i\ave ieen a fapajou, which had the head and mane of 
 a lion. That of Madagafcar, called maki, refembles 
 a leveret, and the orang-outang is like a man. 
 
 EVERY day fhewed me fome animals unknown in 
 Europe, they feem to have taken refuge in thole 
 parts of the globe lead frequented by men, whofe 
 neighbourhood is always fatal to them. The fame 
 may be faid of the plants, the fpecies of which are 
 the moil various, the lels cultivated the ground. M. 
 de Tolbac informed me, that he had fent to Monfieur 
 Linnaeus of Sweden, fome plants from the Cape, fo 
 different from plants known in Europe, that this 
 great Naturalifl wrote to him : " Toil have conferred 
 upon me the greateft pleafure ; but you have thrown 
 *' my whole Jyftem into diforder" 
 
 THE
 
 2iS VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 THE horfes of the Cape are good, and the affes 
 beautiful. The oxen have a large fwelling or excre- 
 fcence on their necks, formed of fat, and lome frnall 
 veflels interfperfed. At firft fight, this excrefcence 
 feems monilrous > but one may loon perceive that it 
 is a refervoir,- with which nature, for its lupport, has 
 furnifhed this animal, deflined to live in the fcorch- 
 ing plains of Africa. In the dry feaibn, the beaft 
 grows thin, and the fwelling climinimes ; but reco- 
 vers idelf, and the wen is recruited with fupplies 
 ifv'hcn it feeds on green herbs. Other animals under 
 this clirQate, hate the fame advantages. The camel 
 has' a bunch, the dromedary has two, in the form of 
 a faddle. Th<* (Keep has a large tail, ma.de en capu- 
 chon, or poake,- which is but a lump of fuet, or fc- 
 vcral pounds weight. 
 
 THTV have taijght tli^o^cn here to run almofl \vith 
 the carts they are .harnelfed to. 
 
 
 BEEF and mutton are fo plentiful, that the he?...'s 
 and feet are thrown away ; \vhich draws the wolves of 
 a night into the very town. I frequently hear them 
 howling in- the environs. **Pliny obierves, that the 
 European lions found in Romania, are more aclive 
 and ftrongff than tiiofe erf Ajrie, and the wolves of 
 Africa apd Egypt, he adds, are but fmall, and not 
 very ftr-ort-g. In fi-i-^l, the solves of the Cape are 
 much Ids dangerous than ours. I might add, that 
 this fuerionty extends even to the men of our con- 
 tinent. .We have more ipirit yt.i courage than the 
 Aliatics artd Negroes -, but aJfflfcn^s it woyld be a 
 commendation more worthy QL-^ could in be laid, 
 we furpaffed them in juilice, benevolence, and the 
 other focial virtues. 
 
 THE
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 219 
 
 THE tiger is more dangerous than the wolf-, he is 
 cunning as a cat, but wants courage. The dogs at- 
 tack him fearlefsly. 
 
 JT is not the fame with the lion. As foon as they 
 hear his roar, terror feizes them. If they fee him, 
 they Hand, but will not approach him. The hun- 
 ters moot him with guns of a large bore *. I have 
 
 handled 
 
 * Our author not having mentioned the elephant, which is 
 commonly found and frequently hunted at the Cape, 1 will in- 
 fert an abtrafi from the /ibhe de la Caille, which I hope will be 
 
 pleiifincr to the reader. " The hunters always feck for the ele- 
 
 {' ptK.iit in live neighbourhood of rivers and attack him in the 
 44 following manner : Three cavaliers well mounted go out toge- 
 M ther two of them remain at a proper d^Hance in the plain, and 
 < the third waits the coming of ;h? brail to quench his thirft at 
 " the river, of which the thirJ cavalier jives notice by a fignal 
 14 to his companions, and then pierces him with a Itroke of a 
 
 l . f launvC, vyhne drinking. The animal, enraged at the wound, 
 
 f* puriues the cavalier, who retires to the plain. One of his 
 *' companions haftcns to his aid, and attacking 1 the elephant f 
 4 wou >ds him a fl-cond time. The btail forgetting his firit affail- 
 " ar.r, purities the lall. The third cavalifr then advances, and 
 
 4t wounds him alio. The creature now difregards the fecond, 
 
 44 in like manner as he did the firll -and follows the third, upon 
 
 '* whom he feems oefiruus of wreaking his fury In the mean 
 
 < 4 time he lofes blood very (aft, and not the lefs for the violence of 
 44 his *age> and he fometimes dies exhaulled before his fir It ene- 
 4< my return^ to the charge thi.*, however, is not ufually the 
 " cafe, and he is then again attacked by the full man, and fo on 
 
 41 by the fecond and third till he expires." 1 have here de- 
 
 fcribed the chale only of the elephant The inhabitants have ma- 
 ny ways of taking him alive, fometimes by a female put in 3 
 park, fenced in for the purpofe, and fometimes in toils, of which 
 ther are various kinds. 
 
 The Abbe then relates a tragical event which happened while 
 he was at the Cape : 4 Three brothers, who had been long 
 ufcd to this exercifc, were about to return to Holland, but deter- 
 mined to add one more to their many triumphs. -The firit bro- 
 ther pierced the bead and dcaped ; the fecond wounded him, 
 but in flying, his horfes fore-feet funk into a mole-hill and 
 could not recover before the elephant came up.- The furious 
 
 bzaft
 
 220 VOYAGE fy tic ISLE or Z^Ar.-oi;. 
 
 kindled one of them, but few % except peafants of the; 
 country ear* ufe them. 
 
 LIONS are not found within fixty leaguer, oi" the 
 Cape i this animal inhabits the forefts within land , 
 Ziis roaring, at a cliitancc, founds like the grumbling 
 of diltant thunder.. He feldom attacks man, he 
 neither feeks r nor, avoids him ; but if wounded by a 
 hunter, he v/ill felec> that man among all the reft, 
 and fpring upon him with an implacable fury. The 
 Company alk>w privileges and rewards for the encou- 
 ragement of lion, hunting. 
 
 I WAS told the following circumftance by the Go- 
 vernor, M. Berg, the Fort-major, and the principal 
 inhabitaats^ who vouched the truth of it : 
 
 AT about fixty leagues from the Cape, in the un- 
 cultivated lands, there is found a prodigious quantity 
 of fmall CABRIS^ .(gf>att)* I faw fame of them in 
 t!ie Company's menageries ; they have two fmall 
 liorns- on their heads ; their hair is fallow coloured 
 lpcttedv,'lii\ vchlcC. 'ji'hclc; creatures feed in fuch vaft 
 numbers, that diofc who go firft in the route they 
 take, di^vour all tlie pafture, and become very fat, 
 i'nfcfmucJi that their followers, rinding no food, grow 
 
 !>eafl (e^cxi the cavalL,- '.vu.fi hTs trunk, tore him from his horfe,, 
 and whirkd him ujwn tiiegrou:it , iic then lookup the horfe allo 
 witli h : s. trunk,. :ni thr/w him fivenl yards into the air, - this 
 tLcHTir, he returned to the poor man, who lay unable to rife from 
 the earth, i>nd havinp again fl-ized him, caft him with, all his 
 might intn the air and: !v Id out his teeth to catch him as he came 
 down the unhappy xvrrtch fJiirg irm a prodigious height, 
 upon one of the tecrii, it pierced h m through the body and he 
 lay there iiiipaled. The fivnge bcaft pcififted in holding him for 
 (b<rie time m this condition, and feemed to exult over him, by 
 advancing him towards his companions, who though they faw his* 
 aac heard the agr-nizing cries he uttered, were wnableto 
 r. 
 
 very
 
 VOYAGE to tht ISLE OF FRANCE. 21* 
 
 Very lean. Thus they continue their march in vail 
 herds, until itopped by lame chain of mountains ;, 
 they then turn back, -and thofe in the rear, finding 
 in their turn ircih herbage, recover their good plight, 
 \vhile thole who were leaders before, loil- their iicjh, 
 and become lean. Attempts have been mack to form 
 them into herds, but they cannot be tamed ivifrki- 
 ently for tha: purpole. Thefe innumerable armies 
 are conitantly followed by troops of lions and tigers, 
 as if nature in creating ihe former, had decreed a 
 certain fubiiilance to ihe latter. It is fcarcely to be 
 doubted, from what was declared to me by tlre-abovr 
 men, that there are lions innumerable HI the mteriei' 
 parts of Africa : the account of the Hollanders tal- 
 lies with hiiKry in this refptct. Polybius lays, thai 
 being in Africa with Scipio, he faw feveral lions pla- 
 ced on croiTes, to deter others from approaching the 
 villages. Pompey, according to Pliny, did at one 
 time turn fix '.hundred lions into the amphitheatre, 
 among which there were thvee hundred and fifteen 
 males. There feems to be a phyfical caufe in the 
 natural fyftem for Africa's being the practical reH- 
 dence of the brute creation. It is to be prefu. 
 that want of water hits pre '/en tea the increase of die 
 human fpecies,and their forming themfeives into great 
 nations here, as they have clone in Afia. Vali in ex- 
 tent as this coaft is, the rivtrs are but fe\v, and theic 
 fmall. The animals of Africa can feed a long tink- 
 without water. I have obierveci on board cf Ihips, 
 that the African iheep drink but once a ^vcj ., altho' 
 their provender is clned herbs. 
 
 THE Dutch have cftab4Uhments for 200 
 
 ^ 
 
 vilong the coaft, and for 150 upon the ilfaits of Ivlo- 
 fambique j they have fcarce any at above 50 leagues 
 within land. It is pretended that this colony or. 
 under arms four or live thoufand white men, but ic 
 
 would
 
 222 Y r OYAGK to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 would be difficult to get them together. Their num- 
 bers would be very loon increaled, if the free txercife 
 of religion were permitted. Holland perhaps, upon 
 its own account, fears the aggrandizing of this colo- 
 ny, preferable in every refped to the mother country. 
 The air is pure and temperate ; all manner of provi- 
 fions abound -, a quintal of corn cofts there no more 
 than one hundred fous, ten pounds of mutton and 
 twelve fous. A legre of wine, containing two hogf- 
 heads and a half, for one hundred and fifty livres *. 
 They exact conliderable duties upon thdc articles 
 when fold to Grangers , but an inhabitant buys at u, 
 much cheaper rate. 
 
 OTHER articles of the trade of this country, are 
 the (kins of fheep, oxen, lea-calves, and tigers > 
 aloes, fait provifions, butter, dry fruits, and all forts 
 of eatables . They have tried in vain to grow cof- 
 fee and fugar, the vegetables of Afia will not thrive 
 here. The chefnut-trce grows very faft, but being 
 very foft, is not fit for buildings. Firs do not thrive, 
 
 * About Six Pounds Ten Shil'ings flerling. 
 
 J In 1771, the Dutch Eaft-Jndia (hips homeward bourd, bel g 
 at the Cape and not freigted, took on board in bulk, fome corn, 
 (the produce of the country) and brought it to Holland. The 
 wheat is a beautiful berry, thin fitinned, white, quite dry, and 
 clean, and in weight exceeds the beft Englifh or Zealand, as 140 
 
 to ^2. The rye is fuperior to any of Northern growth. -- 
 
 My information of its proportional weight, is Hot fo accurate, cs 
 that of the wheat ; but it was fold at ten or twelve per cent, above 
 
 the bed rye of Piuflia.. The barley is thin, and much inferior 
 
 to our Norfolk, 'Tis more like the Zealand barley The 
 
 Dutch incline to cultivate this new branch of trade, which pro- 
 miles much ber,fit. They fell it in (?a!l lots at public auction. 
 In 1774* the wheat fold at two hundred and thiity guilders, which. 
 is about fixty-four (hillings a quarter, Winchelcer The 
 heat of the climate at the Cape fo rftVc'tually dries the grain, that 
 it may be brought in bulk, though tle voyage is fo long a one, 
 without apprehenfion of danger froai its effcrvcfcing. 2". 
 
 The
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 223 
 
 The pine rifes to a moderate height. This country 
 might from its fituation, have been the mart for the 
 commerce of Afia -, but the north of Europe mono- 
 polizes all maritime affairs. The harbour is by no 
 means fafe, and the entrance of it always dangerous. 
 I have feen at this fcafon, which is the fineft of the 
 year, many veffels forced to hoift fail and go to fea. 
 After all, the people mould be thankful to Provi- 
 dence, for having given them every requifite, to fup- 
 ply the real wants of Europeans, without having ad- 
 ded thofe things that ferve only to gratify their 
 pafTions. 
 
 Cape of Good-Hope, Feb. i o, 1771, 
 
 LET-
 
 2-24 VOYAGE to tke ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 LETTER XXIII. 
 
 SLAVES, HOTTENTOTS, HOLLANDERS. 
 
 r | "* I IE plenty of- this country difufscs itfclf even 
 JL amongthe flaves. They have bread and greener 
 at difcretion. A Iheep is allowed weekly for two ne- 
 groes. They do not work on Sundays. They lay 
 upon beds with matrafies and coverlids. Both men 
 and women are clad with warm clothes. I fpeak on 
 this fubject from experience, having been told by 
 feveral blacks that their French matters had fold 
 them to the Dutch by way of punifning them, but, 
 that in fact, they had thereby done them a fervice. 
 A flave cods as much a^ain here as in the I lie of 
 
 ^? 
 
 France. Man is therefore doubly valuable in this 
 place. The fltuation of thefe negroes would be pre- 
 ferable to that of the peafants of Europe, if there 
 v/ere any compenfation for the lofs of liberty. t 
 
 THE good treatment they meet with, has a gre.it 
 influence upon their behaviour -, their zeal, activity, 
 and fidelity, are amazingly great. Yet thele are the 
 very fame iilanders of Madagafcar, who are fo inatten- 
 tive to their matter when in our colonies. 
 
 THE Dutch bring flaves from Batavia alfo. They 
 are Malays a nation of Afia, very populous , but lit- 
 tle known in Europe. Their language and cuftoms 
 are pecui'ar to themfeives. They are more ugly 
 
 than
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 225 
 
 than negroes, and refemble them in feature. Their 
 ftature is lower, their colour d*ur noin cendre^ * their 
 hair long, but thin. Thefe Malays are fubject to 
 the mod violent pafllons. 
 
 THE Hottentots are the natural inhabitants of the 
 place, they are free They are not robbers they do 
 not fell their children, nor do they attempt to enllave 
 each other. Among them adultery is punifhed with 
 death the culprit is ftoned. Some of them let them- 
 felves as houfhold fervants for a piallre a year, and 
 ferve the inhabitants with ib much affection as to ha- 
 zard their lives for them. They are conftantly armed 
 with & demi-lance or dart. 
 
 THE government at the Cape feem to make a point 
 of protecting the Hottentots. When they lodge a 
 complaint againfl an European, they are favourably 
 heard : it being prefumed that the party known to 
 have the fewett defires and feweft wants is the moft 
 likely to be in the right. 
 
 I have feen many of them come into the town, 
 driving waggons drawn by eight pairs of oxen. They 
 have whips of a great length which they ufe with both 
 hands. The driver, from his feat, flogs with equal 
 acldreis the fore or wheel horfes. 
 
 THE Hottentots are a paftoral people, and are all 
 upon a footing j but in each village, they chufe from. 
 
 * I do not know how to tranflate thefe words, unlefs by thofe 
 made ufe of by a younjj Midshipman, who was caft away with 
 Captain Barton in the Litchficld during the laft war. In defcribing 
 the complexion of the Emperor of Morocco ; the young Jailor 
 obferves, that they do his Imperial Majefty's complexion manifell 
 injulHce, who fay that he is a negroe, tor that he is only of a dark 
 chefnut complexion, 7*. 
 
 Q^ among
 
 22f5 VOYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 among themfelves, two men to whom they give thi 
 title of Captain or Corporal, thefe manage their com- 
 mercial bufmefs with the company. They iell their 
 flocks very cheap, fo cheap even, as three or four 
 fheep for a roll of tobacco. Although they have 
 fuch numbers of cattle j they generally wait till they 
 die by accident or old age before they eat them. 
 
 THOSE whom I faw had a fheep-fkin over their 
 {boulders^ with a cap and belt of the fame fluff. They 
 Ihewed me how they lay to reft, which was naked 
 at their length upon the ground,- and their cloak 
 Jerving to cover them. 
 
 THEY are not fo black as the negroes like them 
 
 c_? 
 
 hovevef they have a flat nofe, wide mouth and thick 
 lips. Their hair is fhorter and more curly, like 
 wool*. I have obferved a fomething very particular 
 in their fpeech, every word is preceded by a clack 
 of the tongue, the reafon without doubt of their 
 being called the Choccoquas , which name they 
 have in fome old maps by Monfieur de L'Ifle. 
 One would really think they continually repeated 
 choccoq. 
 
 As to the apron of the Hottentot women, 'tis a 
 ftory which every body affirmed to "be falfe; 'tis 
 drawn from Kolben's voyage, which is full of fuch 
 ridiculous fables. 
 
 * Many different account are given pf the flature of the Hot- 
 tentots Our author isfilent on this fubjcft The A de la CaiHe 
 fays he meafured one, u ho was 6' feet 7 inches | high, and corpu- 
 lent in proportion this man came into the town with many others, 
 and dees not appear to have been felefted for his extraordinary 
 ftature we nuy therefore fuppofe thefe people to be in general 
 larger than Europeans. Had he been remarkable for hi fuse, .the 
 Abbe would doubtlefs have fpoken of him accordingly, y. - 
 rench foot if to that of England at 1000 to 1068. 
 
 Pliny's
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 227 
 
 Pliny's remark is more to be depended on, that 
 animals are lefs fagacious, in proportion as their blood 
 is thicker. The ftrongeit animals by his account 
 have the thickeft blood, and the more cunning the 
 thinneft. I have myfelf remarked that on bleeding 
 a Negroe, his blood curdled very quickly. To this 
 cauie I mould readily attribute the fuperiority of 
 white people over the blacks. 
 
 BESIDES their flaves, and the Hottentots, the 
 Dutch retain indented fervants. They are Europe- 
 ans, to whom the Company advance money, and 
 whom the inhabitants take home with them, having 
 firft paid the government their diiburfements. 
 
 They are chiefly employd to fuperintend houfhold 
 matters. They are diligent enough at rirft, but good 
 living makes them idle* 
 
 The people at the Cape do not game, nor do they 
 vifit much, The women look after their fervants 
 and houfes, the furniture of which is always in the 
 niceft order. The hufband manages the bufmefs 
 abroad. In the evening the family affembles, they 
 walk, and take the air as foon as the breeze is at an 
 end. The fame bufmefs and the fame pleafures are 
 repeated each day. 
 
 THE utmoft harmony prevails among relations. 
 My hoftefs's brother was a Peafant of the Cape who 
 came feventy leagues from hence. This man hardly 
 ever fpoke, and was continually fitting and fmoaking 
 his pipe. He had a little boy with him of ten years 
 old who conftantly flood by him. The father put 
 his hand to his cheek and carefled him without open- 
 ing his lips , the child, as filent as the father preffed 
 his great hands in his own, looking up to him with 
 
 Q^ 2 eyes
 
 228 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 eyes exprefiive of the moil filial tendernefs. This 
 little boy wore the country habit^ he had a coufin in 
 the houfe of his own age who was very genteely dref- 
 fed ; thefe children uied to walk out together with 
 the greateft intimacy. The little citizen did not 
 look with contempt upon the Peafant, he was his 
 coufin ; 
 
 Madamoifdle Berg, though but fixteen years old, 
 manages without afliflancs a very refpectabie family; 
 She receives ftrangers, attends to the fervants, and 
 maintains the moft perfect order in the houfe, and 
 with a countenance always at cafe. Her youth, 
 her beauty her accomplishments, and character gain 
 her the efteem of every body : yet I riever obferved 
 her pay any regard to the compliments addreffed to her. 
 I 'told her one day, me had a great many friends ; 
 "I have one great one,'* faid me 5 that is my father. 
 
 It was this magiftrates delight when he came home 
 from bufmefs to feat himfelf amono; his children. 
 
 ^j 
 
 They jumped round his neck, the little ones em- 
 oraced his knees ; they appealed to him in their little 
 difputes while the eideil daughter, excufing fome 
 approving others and fmiling upon all, redou- 
 bled the joy of the truly parental heart of her father. 
 Methought I faw the Antiope of Idomeneus; 
 
 THIS people, content with domeftic happinefs, 
 the fure coniequence of a virtuous life, do not yet 
 feek after it, in romances, or upon the theatre. There 
 are no public exhibitions at the Cape, nor are they 
 wifhed for. In his own houfe each man views the 
 molt piealing the moft affecting of all fpeetacles, 
 fervants, happy : children, well brought up : and 
 wives, faithful and affectionate. Thefe are the de- 
 lights which the tales of fiction cannot afford. They 
 
 are
 
 VOYAGE to tie ISLE of FRANCE. 229 
 
 are a penfive fet of people, who chufe rather to feel 
 than to converfe, or to argue. Perhaps the want 
 of iubject, is the caufe of their taciturnity. But of 
 what confequence is the mind's being vacant, fo the 
 heart be full, and actuated by the tender emotions of 
 nature, unexcited by artifice, or unconilrained by 
 unreafonable decorum and unnatural referve. 
 
 As foon as the girls of the Cape are in love, they 
 avow it ingenuoufly. They call it a natural fentiment, 
 a gentle paiTion, upon which depends the felicity of 
 their lives, and compenfates the pains and danger of 
 their becoming mothers , but they themfelves will 
 theinfelves make choice of the man to whom they 
 make their vows of conitancy, 
 
 THEY make no myftery of their paffion , as they 
 feel it fo they exprefs it. Are you beloved? You 
 are accepted, entertained, and publickly diftinguimed. 
 I was a witneis to a parting fcene between MademoU 
 {bile Nedling and her lover. In tears, and with 
 fighs me prepared the prefents which were to be the 
 pledges of her affection in which employment me 
 neither fought for witnefTes, not did me mun them. 
 
 THIS mutual inclination is generally productive of 
 a happy marriage. The young men are equally frank 
 in their proceedings. They return from Europe to 
 fulfil their engagements , and bring with them the 
 merit of the dangers through which they have palled, 
 and of a love unaltered by an abfence from its object. 
 Efteem and affection are united, and maintain or life 
 that defire of pleafmg which elfewhere mews itfelf 
 more towards other objects, than towards that to 
 which it is properly due. 
 
 Q.3 As
 
 230 VOYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 As happily as they live here, blefied with fimplici- 
 ty of manners, and a country fo rich and plentiful 
 yet, every thing which conies from Holland is re- 
 ceived among them with tranfport. Their houfes are- 
 papered with views of Amilerdam, of its public 
 places, and environs. They look upon Holland as 
 their country, and even ilrangers in their fervice fpeak 
 of it in that light only. I alked a Swede in the com- 
 pany's fervice, how long the fleet would be on its 
 rerurn to Holland "we fhall be atleait three months, 
 replied he, before we get home.'' 
 
 THEY have a handfome church, wherein divine 
 fervice is performed with great decency. I don't know 
 whether the Dutch think religion an addition to their, 
 happinefs, but there are men here .whofe anceftors have 
 facnftced every thing that they held moft de.ar to. the 
 exercife of it. I fpeak of the French Refugees, , At 
 fome leagues, diftahce from the Cape they have .a let-, 
 tlement, which is called La Petite Rochelle. They 
 are quite in raptures at the fight of a Frenchman, they 
 bringhim horne to their houfes, and prefent him to their, 
 wives and children, as a man, happy, in having feen 
 the country of their forefathers, and. in a profpect of 
 returning, to it again. France is continually the fub- 
 jedt of difcourie, they admire it, they praife it ; yet 
 do they complain of it, as of a mother whofe feveri- 
 ty towards them had been too extreme. Thus do 
 they break in upon their enjoyment of the country 
 they now live in by lamenting their exile from that 
 which they have, never .feen. 
 
 THE Miigiftrates of the Cape efpecially the Gover- 
 nor are treated with the utmpil deference. His 
 houfe is dil>inguimed only from others, by the fenti- 
 nel at the door, and by the cuftom of founding a 
 trumpet when he fits down to dinner.. This piece of 
 
 rtfpect
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 231 
 
 refpect is annexed to his place. No other pomp attends 
 his peribn. He goes out without retinue, and is eafy 
 of accefs. His houfe itantis by the fide of a canal 
 lhaded with chefnut trees planted before his door. In 
 it, are the pictures of Ruyter, Van Trump, and fome 
 other illuftrious perfons of Holland. It is fmall and 
 plain, and fuited to the very few people who 
 have affairs to folicit with him ; but the governor 
 himfelf is fo refpedted and beloved, that the inhabi- 
 tants do not even pals his door without mewing fome 
 mark or other of their refpec"t. 
 
 HE gives no public entertainments, but his purf<? 
 is always open for the fervice of worthy and indigent 
 people. They need pay no court to him. If they 
 leek for juilice, they obtain it of the council ; if 
 fuccour, this he takes upon himfelf, as a duty, 
 injuftice only can be folicited, but it conftantly meets; 
 with the merited fucceis. 
 
 HE has much time upon his hands, which he em- 
 ploys for the prefervation of peace and concord, 
 being perfuaded of their tendency to the well being 
 of all Ibci-jties. He is not of opinion that the power 
 of the chief magiftrate depends upon difcord, and 
 diflenfion among individuals. I have heard him fay 
 that the bell policy was to deal juftly and honeftly 
 with every man. He frequently invites ftrangers to 
 his table. Although more than eighty years old his 
 converfation is lively ; he is acquainted with moft of 
 our works of genius, and is fond of them. Of all 
 the Frenchmen he has feen, he chiefly regrets the 
 Abbe de la Caille, for whom he built an Oblcrvatory 
 here. He eileemed him for his learning, his modefty, 
 his difmtereftednefs, and focial qualities. I know no-, 
 thing more of this learned man than by his works j 
 
 but
 
 
 232 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 but in mentioning the refpect paid by ftrangers to his 
 memory, I feel a fatisfa&ion at rimming my account 
 of this eftimable body of people with their eulo^ium 
 of one of my countrymen*. 
 
 LETTER 
 
 CONTINUATION of my JOURNAL 
 to the CAPE. 
 
 I WAS invited by Monfieur Serrurier, firft minifter 
 of the church to go 1 to fee the library. The 
 building is handfome and fit for the purpofe. I could 
 not help remarking a number of books of theology, 
 which have never yet occafioned any controversies, 
 and indeed the .Dutch never look in them. At the 
 end of the' company's garden, there is a menagerie 
 containing a great number of birds. The pelicans 
 that I faw upon the beach on my arrival had been 
 boarders in this place; but they were driven away 
 becaufe they eat the young ducks. In the day time 
 they went into the road to feek for fifh, and at night 
 returned to rooft on more. \- 
 
 * The late Dr. Goldfmith frequently fpoke of this chapter, 
 as a mafter-piece of good Ien.fe, and well dire&ed .attention and 
 fccfibility, T' 
 
 ON
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 ON the icth of February a fignal was made that a 
 French fhip appeared: 'twas the Alliance^ that had 
 been forced from Bourbon by the hurricane/' She 
 had loft her mizen maft in the itorm. She could give 
 us no tidings of the Indienne. Having taken in pro- 
 vifions, me continued her voyage to America with- 
 out repairing the lofs of her maft. The Dutch have 
 a number of them in ftore, which they keep buried 
 in the fand : but they fell them very dear. A new 
 mizen maft for the Normande colt 1000 crowns. 
 
 ON the nth the Digue^ a pink of the King's that 
 left the I fle of France a month before, came into the 
 Cape to get provifions. t knew the captain, Mon- 
 fieur le Fe'r. He told me he mould anchor here for 
 a few days only, and then fleer for the weftward, 
 Defpairingto fee tkzlndenne and my effects any more, 
 and thinking this opportunity a favourable one, I 
 refolved to embrace it. 
 
 I acquainted Monfieur Berg, and Monfieur Tol- 
 bac, with my determination ; botlvof them again of- 
 fered me their purfes. ' Supping one evening at the 
 governor's and talking of -Conftance wine, Monfieur 
 de Tolbac afked me if I would not carry fome of it 
 with me to Europe. I very naturally anfwered that 
 the diforder in my finances by the accident that had 
 happened, prevented my making a little purchafe of 
 rt, which I meant to have done, as a Prefent for 
 a lady to whom I had a particular attachmen. He told 
 me he would relieve me from this embarraflment by 
 giving me if I thought proper an alverame of red or 
 of white wine, or of both. I anfwered him that one 
 would fuffice, and that I would prefent it in his 
 name to the perfon for whom I intended it. "A 7 0, 
 laid he^ 'tis to you ] give ;'/, as a remembrance of me, 
 and all the acknowledgement I afk, is, that you will 
 
 write
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 ivrite to me when you get to Fran <?.'* He fcnt me the. 
 wine next morning. Monfieur Berg to whom I had, 
 frequently mentioned the civilities I had received 
 from Monfieur and Mademoifelie Cremon. told me, 
 he would take upon himfelf the making my acknow- 
 ledgements to them, and that he would fend them as 
 from me two dozen of Confbance wine. 
 
 'IN actuation, where I was in abfolute want of every 
 thing, I was not a little happy at meeting among 
 ftrangers, with men of fo obliging and benevolent a 
 difppfition. 
 
 I agreed with the captain of the Digue, to pay him 
 600 livres for my paffage to France. He was to fail 
 in a few days. I was very cautious of ufirj'4 Mon- 
 fieur de Berg's credit. I made up one fingle fuit of 
 clothes only and a little linen. This was the whole 
 equipage of an officer returning from the Eaft-Indies. 
 I had not only loft all my efteds, but found myfelf 
 140 livres in debt. 
 
 I had but juft fettled my affairs here, when the 
 African came to an anchor 3t the Cape ; me came to 
 take in provifions \ me left the Me of France about 
 the middle of January, and broi'ght the following 
 account of the lnd>enne. 
 
 THIS unfortunate veflel had loft all her mafts in 
 the ftorm ; and after having kept the lea for more than 
 a month returned at length to the I fie of France in fo 
 bad a condition, that me had been fince difarmed. 
 The feas fhe fhipp'd had fpoilt part of her cargo, and 
 had filled the powder room with water, infomuch that 
 the trunks of the paffengers were afloat. Monfieur 
 Moncherat, .a good man I knew there, had looked 
 
 over
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 over my luggage, and wrote me word, that but little 
 damage had been done to any thing, except to the 
 things in my cabbin. 
 
 THEY told us of an odd accident that happened on 
 board the Indienni'. Among the tranfports who were 
 fent to the Ille of France, there was one of a goo4 
 family, named ***. He had affaflinated his brother- 
 in-law in France. On the voyage he quarrelled with 
 the fupercargo, and when they landed, he ftabbed 
 him without ceremony, and broke the blade of his 
 fword in his body. He fled to the woods, but was 
 found, and committed to prifon. He was tried and 
 condemned, but while under fentence of death, there 
 was a hole made in the wall of his prifon, through, 
 which he efcaped. 
 ', 
 
 THIS event happened two months before my 
 departure. 
 
 DURING the tempeft the Indienne was expofed to, 
 the mizen mail was carried away, and fell into the fea. 
 While they were haftily cutting away the rigging, 
 they faw in the middle of the waves, a failor hanging 
 by the round of the floationg mail. He cried out, 
 fave me, fave me, I am ***. It was really this un- 
 happy wretch. At the return of the Indienne to the 
 Ifle of France, they fuffered him once more to efcape. 
 When Monfieur de Tolbac heard this anecdote, he 
 only faid, Hi tbafs lorn to be banged will never be 
 drowned. . 
 
 THEY had heard nothing of the Alliance ', which 
 probably was loft. 
 
 IT was very fortunate for me, to receive my effects 
 on the eve of my departure, and to be no longer on
 
 236 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 board the Indienne, which was likely to be detained 1 
 ibme time at the I fie of France. 
 
 THE "Digue did not fail till the fecond of March. I 
 paid all my expences with bills of exchange upon the 
 Treafurer for the Colonies, at fix months, by which 
 I loft twenty-two per cent, difcount.. 
 
 I TOOK leave of the Governor, and of Monfieur 
 Berg, who gave me feveral natural curiofitics. I 
 had prefented him with fome of mine. Mademoilelle, 
 Berg, gave me three perroquets from Mada afcar ; 
 they had grey heads, arid were of the fize of fparrows. 
 My landlady furnimed me with fruits, and Weeping, 
 wilhed me 5 as did her family, a good voyage. 
 
 IT was with concern that I left thefe good peo-. 
 pie, and their gardens of European fruit-trees, which, 
 though in the month of march, were loaded with 
 fruit. I rejoiced in tl\e thoughts, however, of rind- 
 ing them in blorTom in Europe, and of enjoying in 
 one year two fummers arid no winter : but what far- 
 exceeded the delights of a beautiful country and mild 
 feafon, I was about to revifit my native country, an4 
 the friends I left in it.
 
 X r OYAGE to tbe ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 LETTER XXV. 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM THE CAPE, 
 
 DESCRIPTION of the ISLAND of ASCENSION. 
 
 THE 2d of March at two in the afternoon, we 
 fet fail in company with fix of the fleet from 
 Batavia. The other fix went fifteen days before. 
 We went out by the fecond opening of the bay, leav- 
 ing Roben's Ifland on the left. We foon out- 
 failed the Dutch {hips. They kept company to the 
 latitude of the Azores^ where two Ihips of war waited, 
 to convoy them to Holland. 
 
 MARINERS reckon the Cape to be a third part of 
 the way from the Ifle of France to Europe : ano- 
 ther third they call, to the line : and the laft, from 
 thence home. 
 
 EIGHT days after our departure, while we were fit- 
 ting upon deck after dinner, in the moft perfect fe- 
 curity, we faw a great flame iiTue from the kitchen- 
 chimney, which rofe feveral yards above deck. 
 Every body ran forward. It was no more than a 
 panic : an awkward cook had thrown fome fat upon 
 the hearth. It/was mentioned by fome of the offi- 
 cers upon this iubjeft, that a few years ago, in a 
 
 fhip
 
 138 VOYAGE to tie IsLE OF FRANCE, 
 
 fhip called the , the fire had catched the maft, 
 
 and that all the rigging forward being on fire, the 
 officers and crew were in diffraction, and came in a 
 tumult to tell the Captdn, who coming out of the 
 cabbin, faid very coolly, " My good friends, this is 
 " nothing, only bear away, and put before the 
 " wind." 
 
 IN fact, the flames driven by the wind; ceafed 
 when all the fails were burnt. The man thus en- 
 dowed with fang-froid, was Monfieur de Surville, an 
 officer of great merit in the Company's fervice! 
 
 WE had the wind S. W. conftantly, and a fine 
 fea, till we got to the Ifland of Aicenfion: The 
 2Oth ot March we were near its latitude, ( 8 deg. S.) 
 but we had taken it too much Eafhvard. We 
 were obliged to run down the longitude, our inteh- 
 
 O tj f 
 
 tion being to anchor there; and catch fome turtle. 
 
 THE 22d in the morning we had fight of it. 
 This ifland is feen ten leagues off, although fcarcc 
 
 J * cJ 
 
 a league and half over. One can diilinguifh a 
 pointed hill, called the Green-Mountain. The reft 
 of the ifland is formed of fmall black and red hills, 
 and the pieces of rocks near the iea were quite white 
 with the dung of birds. 
 
 THE nearer you approach, the more horrid the 
 landfcape appears. We coafted along more, in or- 
 der to anchor in the North-weft. At the foot of 
 thefe black hills, we perceived an appearance like 
 the ruins of an immenle city. They were funken* 
 rocks, which have proceeded from an ancient vol- 
 cano , they are fcattered all over the plain, and as 
 far as the fea, in ftrange fhapes. The fhore here- 
 abouts is compofed of them. Some are formed like 
 
 pyramids,
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 239 
 
 pyramids, others like grottos j half finifhed arches, the 
 waves break againft which , one while they flow o- 
 Ver them, and in running down again, cover them 
 with a kind of table-cloth of foam , fometimes find- 
 ing flat pieces railed high, and full of holes, they 
 beat agairtft them underneath, and throw up Jong 
 jets dean of various forms. 
 
 THESE black and white fnores were almoft cover- 
 ed with fea-fowl. A number of frigate-birds ho- 
 vered about: our rigging, where they were taken 
 by the feamen. We anchored in the evening at the 
 entrance of the Great-Bay, I went into the boat 
 with the men who were to catch turtle. The land- 
 ing-place is at the foot of a mafs of rocks, which is 
 feen from the anchorage at the extremity of the bay 
 on the right-fide. We got out upon a large fand, 
 which is white, mixed with grains of red, green, and 
 other colours, like that kind of anifeed called mig) c- 
 vette. Some paces from hence we found a little grot- 
 to, and in it a bottle, in which the mips who touch 
 there put letters. They break the bottle, and hav- 
 ing read the letters, put them into another, 
 
 WE went forward about fifty paces, taking to the 
 left, behind the rock, to a little plain, where the 
 ground broke to pieces under our feet, as if it had 
 been a covering of inow. J tailed fome of it ; it was 
 fait, which I thought very ftrange, there being no 
 appearance of the lea's coming fo far. 
 
 THEY brought up wood, the kettle, and the fail 
 of the boat, upon which our men lay down in expec- 
 tation of night. 'Tis about eight in the evening on- 
 ly that the turtles come on more. The people were 
 laying here at their eaie, when one of them jumpino- 
 up i called out in a great fright, a dtad wan, here's 
 
 a dead
 
 $40 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE.' 
 
 a dead man. The matter was, by a little crofs, 
 placed on a fmall hill of fand, we perceived that Ibme - 
 perfon had been buried there. The man had lain 
 down upon this place without thinking \ but not one 
 of them would ftay here a moment after this diico- 
 very ; and we were obliged to comply with their whim, 
 and remove about a hundred yards farther. 
 
 THE moon rifmg, began to difTufe a light over this 
 folitude, which, unlike agreeable views, that are 
 rendered more linking by the light of the moon, ap- 
 peared but the more horrible, and difmal. We were 
 at the foot of the black-hill, at the top of which we 
 could fee a large crofs, put up, as we fuppoied by 
 fome failors who had been there. Before us, the 
 plain was covered with rocks, from which rofe an in- 
 finite number of points about the height of a man. 
 
 THE moon caufed a fparkling on the top of thefe 
 points which were whitened by the dung of the birds 
 that had refted there. Thefe white heads upon black 
 bodies, the one of which were upright, the other 
 ^Doping, appeared like ghofls wandering over the 
 tombs. The mod profound filence -reigned in this 
 difmal region , a filence, now and then only interrupted 
 and rendered more horrid, by the roaring of the lea 
 on the beach, or the cry of a itray frigate-bird 
 frighted at the fight of men. 
 
 WE were at the edge of the bay waiting for tur- 
 tles. We lay upon our bellies as ftiil as poflible, 
 this animal flying at the kail noiie. At lait we faw 
 three come out of the water ; they appeared like black 
 clouds, creeping along the fand. We ran to the 
 firft, but our impatience occafioned our iofmg it, 
 She went down the cliff again, and fwam away. 
 The fecond was advanced farther, and could not 
 
 efcape
 
 .VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 241 
 
 jiot efcape, but was thrown upon its back. In the 
 courfe of the night, and in the fame valley, we 
 turned above fifty, fome of which weighed above 
 5 cwt. 
 
 THE fhore was dug in holes, where they had 
 lain fo many even as three hundred eggs, and 
 had covered them with land, in which they were to 
 be hatched by the fun. 
 
 THE failors killed a turtle and made foup of it 
 after which, I laid me down in the grotto^ -where the 
 letters are depofited, that I might enjoy the fhelter of 
 the rock, the diftant noife of the fea^ and the foftnefs 
 of the fand, I ordered a failor to fetch me my wrap- 
 ping-gown ; but he dared not go by himfelf pail the 
 place, where the man had been buried; No beings, 
 certainly, can be at once fo intrepid, and fo dallard- 
 ly fupcrftitious as feamen are; 
 
 I flept very comfortably. Oh awaking, I found 
 a fcorpion and fome crabs at the entrance of my 
 cave, I faw no other herbs here, than a fpecies 
 of milk-thiftle, or celandine. Its juice was rnilky^ 
 and very bitter. The herbage, and the animals 
 were worthy of the country they were -in. 
 
 I WEMT Up the fide of one of the hills, the earth 
 of which reibunded under my feet. It was a per- 
 fecc cinder, of a reddifh colour, and fait; From 
 hence, perhaps, proceeds the little covering of fak 
 upon the more, where we fpent the night. A 
 booby came and pitched on the ground a little 
 way from me, I prefented the end of- my cane 
 to him, and he took it in his bill, without attempt- 
 ing to fly away. 
 
 R THESIS
 
 242 VOYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 THESE birds will fuffcr a man to take them up in 
 his hand, as will every other fpecies unufed to the 
 fociety of mankind , a proof, this, that there is a 
 fort of good-will and confidence, natural to all ani- 
 mals towards thofe creatures, which they do not think 
 mifchievous *. Birds have no fear of oxen. 
 
 OUR failors killed a number of frigate-birds, for the 
 iake of a piece of fat that is round their necks. They 
 think it fpecific in the gout, becaufe this bird is fo 
 fwift : but nature, which has annexed this evil to our 
 intemperance, has not placed the remedy for it in our 
 cruelty. 
 
 ABOUT ten in the morning, the fhallop came to 
 fetch the turtles on board. As the furf ran high, 
 Hie anchored at a diftance, and drew them on board 
 with a rope. 
 
 THIS bufmefs employed us all day. In the even- 
 ing, the turtles that were not worth taking, were 
 thrown into the fea again. When they have been 
 long on their backs, their eyes grow red as a cherry 4 
 and ftand out of their head. There were many on 
 the fhore that had been left by other Ihips, to die in 
 this fituation, a negligence that was unpardonable. 
 
 * Poffibly a good argument might be" deduced from this cir- 
 cumflance, in refutation of the opinion of Hobbes, that if in a 
 fuppoftd ftate o'f nature, an human being, fhould accidentally 
 meet for th? firft time, another of the fpecies, they would mutu- 
 ally run away. TV 
 
 LET-
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 243 
 
 LETTER XXVI. 
 
 > ' 
 
 CONJECTURES upon the Antiquity of the 
 
 ISLE of ASCENSION, the ISLE of FRANCE, the CAPE 
 
 ofGooD-HopE, land of EUROPE. 
 
 w 
 
 HILE our failors were getting the turtles en 
 board, I fat me down in a chafm or cavern of 
 the rocks, with which the country is covered : a 
 variety of reflections fuggefted themfelves to my ima- 
 gination at the fight of fo horrible a diforder. 
 
 IF thefe, thought I, were the ruins of a great city, 
 what memoirs mould we have had of thofe, by whom 
 it was built, and by whom it was deftroyed ? In 
 Europe there is not a fingle column. 
 
 WHEREFORE do we, fo well informed in other mat- 
 ters, remain in total ignorance of whence we came, and 
 where we are? All the learned are agreed as to the origin 
 and the duration of Babylon, now dciblate and unin- 
 habited , but by no means concur in opinion con- 
 cerning the nature and antiquity of the globe, the 
 country of all mankind. Some maintain it to have 
 been produced by fire, and others, by water ; thefe, 
 by the laws of motion ; and others by thofe of chryf- 
 tallization. The people of the weftern world believe 
 it to be fix thoufand years old only, while thofe of 
 the Eaft fay that it is from all eternity. 
 
 R 2 IT
 
 244 VOYAGE to tie ISLE of FRANCE. 
 
 IT is probable that one fyftem only would be a- 
 dopted, if all the world were like this illand. Thefe 
 pumice-ftones, thefe hillocks of cinders, and thefe 
 broken rocks, which have bubbled up a kind of 
 metallic drofs, evidently prove it to have been the 
 work of a volcano , but how many years have e- 
 lapfed fmce the eruption to which it owes its origin ? 
 
 METHINKS, if this had happened a very long time 
 ago, theie hills of afhes would have loft their pyra- 
 rhidical form, and have been rendered flat by the 
 -heavy rains, and the heat of the fun. The angles 
 and out-lines of the rocks would not befo lharp and 
 pointed, it being one property of the atmofphere to 
 deitroy the projecting parts of every Body -, ftatues of 
 marble carved by the artifts of ancient Greece, by 
 being expofed to the air for aferiesofyears, no longer 
 retain their original form ; but are again reduced to 
 mere mapelefs blocks. 
 
 MIGHT not then a judgment be formed of the an- 
 tiquity of a Body by the degree of decay it has fuf- 
 fered, in like manner as the antiquity of a medal is 
 determined by its ruft ? Is not an old rock as much a 
 medal of earth, engraved by time ? 
 
 MOREOVER, were this ifland very ancient indeed, 
 theie blocks of ftone upon the furface of the ground, 
 would have e'er now been buried in it, from their 
 own exceffive weight , this effect of a heavy body, 
 though ilow, is yet fure. The piles of fliot, and the 
 cannon, ranged upon the fbor of an arienal, in the 
 courfe of a lew years bury themfclves therein. The 
 gre.'iter part of the monuments of Greece and Italy, 
 have funk deeper than their iurbaies and fome have 
 entirely diiappearecl. 
 
 IF
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 245 
 
 IF then I could know in bow long a time a Bo y of 
 a known form and weight, would be in burying itie'f in 
 a Joil of a ce. t'tin knoivn rejiftance, I mould have an 
 hypothesis, whereby I might difcover what I am in 
 fearch of. The calculation would be eafy, were the 
 data once known : in the mean time there is great rea- 
 fon to believe this ifland but of a modern date, 
 
 I AM partly of the fame opinion, with relpefb to 
 the antiquity of the Ifle of France ; but as its piqued 
 mountains are already tabulated on the tops, its rocks 
 a third or fourth part only funk in the earth, and 
 their angles but a little blunted, I am rather induced 
 
 O 7 
 
 to believe it tome ages more ancient than the oiher. 
 
 THE Cape of Good-Hope appears to be of far 
 greater antiquity. The rocks broken from the tops 
 of the mountains are entirely buried in the earth,where 
 they are found by digging. The foot of each moun- 
 tain has a large and h ; gh Talus, formed of the bro- 
 ken pieces of the upper parts. Thefe have been fe- 
 parated from their original fituation by the continued 
 aftion of the atmofphere upon them -, in confirmation 
 of this conjecture, they are in far the greateft quan- 
 tity in thole parts wh.rc the winds are ufed to blow. 
 J particularly noticed this at the table-mountain, the 
 part of which, oppofite to the fouth-eaft wind, has a 
 much more exteniivc Talus, than that part next 
 die town, 
 
 I HAVE alfo remarked upon the table-mountain, 
 fome ftones Handing by themfelves, the lize of a tun 
 or large cafk, the angles of which, are blunted. The 
 pieces broken off from them have now no longer the 
 fliarp edges they feem formerly to have had ; and are 
 of no harder confidence than a white and fmoothiy 
 polifhed gravel, like almonds. - Thefe ftones are 
 
 R 3 very
 
 246 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 very hard, and in colour and grain, like plates of 
 China, that have been much ufed. 
 
 THE decay of thefe bodies are evidences of their 
 great antiquity. In many places the rock is quite bare, 
 nor is the bed of vegetable earth above two inches 
 deep any where. It cannot then have been many 
 ages fmce vegetables firft grew there, although they 
 are now common. 
 
 WE cannot, however, form any judgment from 
 herice, becaufe the fummit of the mountain being 
 neither of fand nor of porous itone, but of a fort 
 of flint, white, polimed, and very hard ; the feeds 
 of plants .brought hither by the winds, may have re- 
 mained a long time before they could be able to 
 germinate. 
 
 THE vegetative bed is much deeper on the plains, 
 but from hence neither, can we decide as to the 
 antiquity of the foil, for where this bed isofacon- 
 fiderable depth, it may have been increafed by the 
 floods from the mountains after hard rains, or have 
 been driven or warned farther off, in parts where it 
 is thin. 
 
 IF there were in Europe an high mountain (land- 
 ing by itfclf, with a flat iummit as that of the Table^ 
 ana not covered as that is, with a matter unfit for 
 vegetation, a comparifon might be made between the 
 thicknefs of its vegetative bed, and that of any newly 
 formed land alike infulated, for example, with the 
 cruft of earth which covers fome of thole iflands form- 
 ed in the courfe of the laft century at the mouth of 
 the Loire. 
 
 'Til!
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 247 
 
 'Till the contrary is proved by experiment, I 
 then prefume that Europe is more ancient than 
 the Cape of Good-Hope, becaufe the fummits of 
 the mountains are not fo fteep, their fides incline 
 more gradually, and the angular pieces of thofe rocks 
 yet uncovered with earth, are blunted and round. 
 
 I DO not hereby mean fuch rocks as appear on 
 the iides of mountains, which the fea, torrents, or 
 the falling of rivers have rendered fteep, nor the 
 (tones which the rain has left bare, by warning 
 away the earth which covered them -, and much 
 lefs, thofe flints in the fields, which the plough 
 covers one year and uncovers the next : but 
 thofe only, which by their weight and iituation, 
 are fubjecl to the laws of gravity. I faw none of 
 this laft fort in the plains of Ruffia and Poland. 
 Finland is paved with rocks, but of a totally different 
 fliape , 'tis a feries of fmall hills and vallies of folid 
 rock, and may be called a petrified earth. Never- 
 thelefs as fir-trees grow on the tops of thofe hills, it 
 mould feem that they have been a long time in the 
 
 air, which has decompofed them. It appears even 
 
 that in a climate lefs cold than the one I fpeak of, 
 this diflblution would be very confiderably accelera^ 
 ted , but that the fnow covering the furface for fix 
 months in the year, and the ground being hardened 
 by the froft, the effect of their weight is retarded. 
 
 THE kind of rocks moil proper for thefe experi- 
 ments, is fuch as are found in the neigbourhood of 
 Fontainbleau. It is a free-ftone, in huge mafles de- 
 tached from each other, the edges of all which the 
 hand of time has rounded off. Some of them are 
 half, fome two thirds buried in the earth, and 
 Others lay on the furface in heaps, as if brought thi- 
 
 R 4 ther
 
 VOYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRANCE, 
 
 thcr for the purpofe of building. Thefe laft, are pro- 
 bably the fummits of mountains, which have not yet 
 entirely difappeared. Each century, has perhaps, 
 feea them farther and deeper immerfed, and two 
 thoufand years ago, it is not unlikely, but that they 
 were as lofty mountains as many at this day. The 
 force with which the elements ad, and the intrinfic 
 gravity tends to preferve the globular form of the 
 earth. la time, the mountains of Europe will be far 
 Ms fteep 'than they now are, in time, the fea will 
 have diffolved the rocks by which its bounds are li- 
 mited, and upon which it is continually breaking, 
 in. like manner as it has already deftroyed thofe once 
 famous ones of Scylla and Charibdis. 
 
 BEWILDERED in thefe reflections, I took from my 
 pocket a book of ancient hiilory, and opened a place 
 wherein, fpeaking of fome families ot Europe, the 
 author fays, fo gteat is their an'iqtnty, that thei- o~ igin 
 jeenis lofi in the right of time, as if their anceilors had 
 been born before the fun. In another place, he 
 fpeaks of the people of the North, as the fabricators 
 of human nature, Officina G mt turn -, " as a torrent of 
 " barbarians, which the North could no longer 
 " contain." 
 
 I HAVE lived fome time in the North, and have 
 travelled through more than eight hundred leagues of 
 it,' but I do not recollect to have feen there one fingle 
 monument of antiquity. Yet, we fee durable traces 
 of all populous nations every where elfe, and from 
 the lowly fteeple in a country village, to the pyra- 
 mids of Egypt, every land where mankind have in- 
 habited, bears teftimony to their induftry. The 
 plains of Greece and of Italy are covered with antique 
 Sj .why .are they not likewiie feen in Ruflia and 
 
 Poland
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 249 
 
 Poland ? becaufe mankind can only increafe accord- 
 ing to the growth cf the fruits of the earth where 
 they inhabit, and beeaufe the North of Europe lay 
 barren and uncultivated, while the South was covered 
 with harvefts of corn, vineyards, and olive trees. 
 The people of the South, in their abundance, raifed 
 altars to every Good. Ceres, Pomona, Bacchus, 
 Flora, Pales, the Zephyrs, the Nymphs, were Plea- 
 fures, therefore they were Deities. The Virgins of- 
 fered pigeons to the God of Love, and garlands to 
 the Graces, praying to Lucina to blefs them with 
 good hufbands, who mould be faithful and affccti- 
 pnute. Religion was congenial with nature, and, as 
 acknowledgement was in every heart, the earth under 
 this aufpicious iky, was covered with altars. They 
 rofe in every orchard to the Deity of gardens ; to 
 .Neptune on the fea-more, and in every bower to Cu- 
 pid : The Nayads had their grottos, the Mufes, por- 
 ticos, Minerva, pcryftiles An obeliik to Diana, 
 appeared in every copfe, and the temple of Venus 
 ra Jed its cupola over the trees of every foreft. 
 
 BUT no fooner was an inhabitant driven from this 
 delightful climate, to feek a new eilablifhment in 
 the North -, no fooner had he, with his unfortunate 
 family found himfelf within the frigid zone Hea- 
 vens ! what could equal the horror which feized 
 him on the approach of winter ! The fun fcarcdy 
 prcfented his red and gloomy difk above the hori- 
 zon, the winds roaring through the woods, and 
 fplitting the trunks of the fir-tree and the oak, 
 the fountains congealed, and the courfe of rivers 
 flayed by the freezing hand of WINTER. Deep 
 fnows covering with a fpotlefs robe the meadows, 
 woods, and lakes alike. The plants, ths flowers, 
 he fountains, every thing by which litiman life 
 
 can
 
 250 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 can receive comfort, or even fupport dead. He 
 can fcarcely breathe, nor dares he touch any 
 object that prefents itfelf to his eyes for death is 
 in the air, and every thing he fees, furnifhes him 
 with new caufe of forrow. VVh^n this unhappy crea- 
 ture hears the cries of his helpleis infants, beholds 
 their tears freezing on their livid cheeks, and their 
 arms flretched out to him for the help he has not to 
 afford them, difcoloured, and perhaps mortifying. 
 How horrible muft be his ideas of the land he is come 
 into Can he hope for a pofterity from nature, or to 
 reap harvefts of grain from fields of adamant. His 
 hand muft tremble at opening a foil replete with 
 death to his inhabitants. Nothing remains but 
 to participate his mifery with his flocks : with them 
 to brouze on the mofs and bark of trees, and conti- 
 nue to wander over a land, where a ft ate of repoie 
 can be purchafed only with life. Hovy then can he 
 think of building ? A den or cavern dug in a rock 
 is ?iis temporary protection from the cold ; and it A 
 from the bofom of thefe mows, a monument of any 
 kind mould arife what other can it be than a tomb ? 
 
 IT is probable that the North of Europe was un- 
 peopled till the Southern parts were nearly abandon- 
 ed. The Greeks, harraiTed by their fucceflive ty- 
 rants, preferred the fweets of liberty to thole of their 
 native climate, which they therefore dcierted, and 
 carried with thtrn into Hungary, Bohemia, Po- 
 land and Ruflia, thofe arts by means of which, 
 man alone, of all animals, can triumph over the 
 elements, and bid defiance to the inclemencies of 
 every climate. From the Morea to Archangel, 
 an extent of five hundred kagues, no language is 
 fpoken but the Sclavonic, the words and evert 
 letters of which derive from the Greek. 
 
 The
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 251 
 
 THE Northern nations are therefore of Greek 
 defcent, they, however, again funk into a ftate 
 of barbarifm ; but are now once more emerging 
 from it, under the influence of a legislature more 
 mild than that of former times. Peter the Great, 
 has laid the foundation of their modern gran- 
 deur, and in our time, they live under the govern- 
 ment of an Emprefs who gives them laws worthy 
 of Areopagus. 
 
 LET,
 
 252 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 LETTER XXVII. 
 
 OBSERVATIONS upon the -ISLAND of 
 
 ASCENSION. DEPARTURE. Arrival in 
 
 FRANCE. 
 
 I WAS totally abforbed in my reflections upon this 
 ifland Pleafmg objects are for our enjoyment, 
 calamitous ones for our reflection, The happy man 
 reafons but feldom the afflicted mind meditates, and 
 In meditation often finds relief from the evils 
 which deprefs it, So true is it that nature hath made 
 pleafure the universal purfuit of man, and when his 
 heart is incapable of it, me places its feat in his head, 
 
 ALTHOUGH the ifland of Afcenfion may be faid to 
 be without earth and without water, it does not occu- 
 py a place upon the globe to no purpofe, The turtle 
 has made choice of this coaft to lay its eggs, which it 
 does for three months in the year. 'Tis a folitary 
 animal that flies frequented fhores. A veilePs an- 
 choring here for twenty four hours will drive them, 
 from the bay for feverai days, and if a gun be fired, 
 they will not return in many weeks. The frig-ate 
 and booby are more familiar, being 1 not fo mucrTex- 
 perienced , but thefe, upon mores that are inhabited, 
 ketp upon the very fummits of the rocks, and will 
 not fuffer themfelves to be approached. This ifland 
 is their commonwealth, the primitive manners are 
 retained, and the fpecies multiply , for no tyrant can 
 
 take
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 253 
 
 take up his abode amongft them. Doubtlefs the 
 common mother of all beings has* ordained that bar- 
 ren rocks and fands fhould be in the ocean, defolate 
 indeed, but protected by the jarring elements, as a 
 refuge and afylum, where the animal world may en- 
 joy what even among mankind are deemed her chidfeli 
 blefiings, tranquillity and liberty. 
 
 FERTILE and plcafant countries are deprived of 
 their natural freedom, which this iiland ftill retains. 
 Surrounded by theAtlantic it has cfcaped that flavery, 
 which is the bane and the difgrace of Africa and 
 America. It is common to all nations, pofTcrTed by 
 none, and is frequented by few but Englifh and 
 French {hips which flop in their way from India to 
 catch turtle. The Dutch being victualled at the 
 Cape, feidom put in here. 
 
 THE air of Afcenfion is pure I lay two nights 
 together en the ground without covering ; I have 
 feen rain fall from the clouds whofe courfe was fray- 
 ed by the fummit of the green mountain, which how- 
 ever did not appear to be much h'giier than Mont- 
 martre This flopping of the clouds is occaiioned by 
 attraction, which is always more forcible at fea than 
 within land. 
 
 IF a failor is ill of the fcurvy while here, they 
 cover him with fand, and he quickly finds his 
 complaint relieved. Although J was very well, 
 I held my legs for fomc time in this dry bath, and 
 felt for feveral days after an extraordinary quick cir- 
 culation of blood, which I could not account for. 
 But I fuppofe that this fand being compofed of cal- 
 careous particles, attracts to the Ikin the humours of 
 the body it inclofes ; like thole abforbent ' ftones 
 
 which
 
 254 VOYAGE to tbe ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 which are applied to a fting to extract the venom : i 
 were to be wifhed that fome able phyfician would 
 make experiments in other diforders, of a remedy 
 which inftinct alone has taught to the fcorbutic failor. 
 
 *J 
 
 WE were to pafs one more night afhore At ten 
 in the evening I bathed in a fmali bay, between the 
 landing place and tire main, furrounded with a femi- 
 circular chain of rocks. At the end of this bay the^ 
 fand is railed to a height of fifteen feet, and runs 
 down to the fea in a (lope. There are feveral rocks 
 at the entrance, but they do not rife above the far- 
 face of the water. The fea when much agitated,' 
 breaks over them with a prodigious noife, I was 
 obliged to gripe faft by the rocks, as the billows 
 beat over my head almoft every minute. 
 
 24th in the morning, the bar was very high/ 
 the fhip hoifled a flag as a fignal for us to come off. 
 It was irripofiible for the boat to land at the ufual 
 place ; me had been taking in a dozen of turtles that 
 had been refervecj, arid was then fwinging by a grap- 
 pling iron at half a mufqet mot from where we flood. 
 Some of the ftrongeft amorig the failors pulled off 
 their clothes, and watching the moment of the fur- 
 ges leaving the more, carried the luggage and pafTen- 
 gers on board running as faft as they could the 
 whole way. 
 
 I told the officer who' commanded, that I thought 
 her very fufficiently loaden twenty perfons were 
 on board her, and as many remained on fliore 
 but being defirous of faving the trouble of a fecond 
 trip -, they continued to go on board. In the mean 
 time, monftrous furge raifing up the barge, broke 
 the grappling, and threw her on the (bore eight or 
 ten men up to the middle in the fea expected to be 
 
 darned
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 2*5 
 
 *y^ 
 
 <daihed to pieces Had me brought up Tideways, flic 
 had been loft, but luckily (he was thrown in ftern- 
 jforemoft. Two or three waves fucceedingr lifted her 
 alrnoll upright, by which means fhe fhipped a good 
 deal of water aft The people on board in their 
 fright jumped into the water, and were near drown- 
 ing But at lenpth the united efforts of us all, fee 
 
 DO ' 
 
 her once more afloat. 
 
 ON her return for us who remained, me narrowly 
 cfcaped the like accident, and happy for us that me 
 did io, for we were not hands enough to have got 
 her off The (hip muft have failed and we had been 
 left on an ifland whereon we could have found neither 
 provifions, wood, nor water. And yet it is faid there 
 are fome little ponds of frefli water at the foot of the 
 green mountain and a few goats, who finding no 
 herbage but dog's tooth, are half ftarved. Cocoa 
 trees were planted here, but would not grow. 
 
 THE South Eaft part of Afcenfion is compofed of 
 lava, and the North Eaft of hillocks of cinders 5 
 whence I conclude that the wind was to the S, E. 
 when the volcano rofe from the fea and that it blew 
 gently, elfe the cinders would have been too much 
 fcattered to have formed the promontories of hills 
 they now compofe further that the internal heat 
 (or combuftible matter) of volcanos is not kind led by 
 the revolutions of the atmofphere, and that the com- 
 motions and tempefts of the earth, are independent of 
 thofe of the air* 
 
 THEY mould leem rather to depend upon the wa- 
 ter ; of all the volcanos I have feen or know cf, 
 there are none but what are near the fea, or fome great 
 lake I made this obfervation fome time ago when 
 
 I
 
 256 VOYAGE to the ISLE* of FRANCE, 
 
 I was endeavouring to account for die caufe of then* 
 and being confirmed by nature, my opinion is the 
 more likely to be a juft one 
 
 WE fet fail at five in the evening of the 24th of 
 March. We lived upon turtle for near a month after 
 They were kept alive all time by laying them fome- 
 times on the back and fometimes on the belly, and 
 by throwing fea-water over them feveral times a day. 
 
 TURTLE is very nutritive, but one is foon tired of 
 it the fiefh is very tough, and the eggs but of an 
 indifferent tafle. 
 
 WE repalTed the line, having calms fometimes, and 
 fbmetimes ftorms. The currents run northward very 
 perceptibly-, they more than once, carried us ten 
 leagues in four and twenly hours, when there was no 
 wind The 28th of April in lat. 32 N. we faw an 
 eclipfe of the moon at about eleven o'clock at night ; 
 we had feveral days of calms , they are faid to be the 
 intervals between the different winds which prevail 
 in thefe latitudes. From 28 to 23 deg. N. the fea 
 was covered with a marine plant, called grappe as 
 raifm (clufter of grapes) it was full of fmall crabs 
 and the fry of rim. This perhaps is a means 
 which nature makes ufe of to people the mores of 
 iflands with animals, which could not be tranfported 
 thither by any other : the fifh frequenting near the 
 coaft being never found in the main fea. 
 
 With great joy we faw the pole ftar again appear 
 above the horizon and the pleafure was heightened 
 every night that it rofe ; the fight of it made my 
 evening walks very agreeable. One night at ten 
 o'clock as I was walking upon the quarter deck, 
 fomebody fpoke in much hafte and feeming fright to 
 
 the
 
 VOYAG E to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 257 
 
 the officer who had the watch : he bid the man light 
 a candle, and follow him along the forecaftle. I 
 took the fame way they did, and preiently we were 
 hot a little furprized to fee a cloud of thick and black 
 fmoke iffue from the hatchway. The failors of the 
 watch were laid down very quietly upon one of the 
 fails of the mizen mail, and when we called to them, 
 were feized with terror. Two or three of the 
 moft daring went down the hatchway with a lanthorn, 
 crying out that we mould all perim. We looked 
 about for buckets, but could not find even one. 
 Some were for ringing the bell to call up the people, 
 others for working the pump that was aft, to carry 
 water below ; every man propofed, but no man at- 
 tended ; the diforder cannot be defcribed. 
 
 AT length being all ranged with our heads (looping 
 over the hatchway, we waited our deftiny. The fmoke 
 increafed, and we even faw gleams of flame iffue from 
 the crevices. Prefently however, a voice from below 
 called out, that the fire had only catched fome wood 
 put into the oven to dry. This moment of inquietude 
 appeared like a century. Hard fate of feamen ! In the 
 midft of fine weather, in the midft of the moft perfect 
 fecurity, and in the very hour of return to our native 
 country, one unfortunate accident had well nigh 
 brought upon us the moft dreadful of all deaths. 
 
 THE 1 6th the failors were exercifed in firing at a 
 mark, which was a bottle hung at the end of the 
 yard ; the guns were tried : We had five of them. 
 This was done, that we might be prepared, in cafe 
 we were attacked by the Saltings* Fortunately we 
 
 * There is no Engli(h word for Saltins but Sallet being about 
 that latitude, I fuppofe the Author means the Rovers of that 
 place. T. 
 
 S met
 
 258 VOYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRANC*. 
 
 met with none. Our fmall arms were in fuch badi 
 condition that at the firft firing one of them burft 
 near me, and wounded the failor that held it very 
 dangeroufly. 
 
 THE 1 7th, I perceived at noon day, upon the Tea, 
 a long band of a greenim caft y in direction from 
 North to South It was motionlefs, and extended 
 near half a league. The veflH pafled it at the South 
 end. There was no fwell upon it, or near it. The 
 captain as well as the officers agreed that it muft 
 be a Ihoal or flat it is not marked upon the chart. 
 We were now as high as the Azores. 
 
 THE 2Oth of IvTay wefaw an Englifh mip bound 
 to America; they told us we were in 23 deg. longi- 
 tude, which was 1 40 leagues farther to the weftward 
 than we imagined ourfelves, 
 
 THE 22d of May, in 45 deg. 45 min. N. we 
 thought we faw a rock, over which the fea broke. 
 The weather being calm y they hove our a boat. It 
 was a Ihelf of furf formed by the bed of the fea 
 Two hours after, we found a mail furnimed with rig- 
 ging, which appeared as if cut away from an Englifh 
 mip in ftrefs of weather. We took it on board joy- 
 fully, for we began to want firewood, and what was 
 worfe, provifions , having made but one meal a day 
 for eight days paft. 
 
 THE fky had for fome time been clouded over iri 
 the middle of the day, fo that we did not know in 
 what latitude we were. The 2 8th, the wind blew fa 
 hard that the vefiel could carry none but her lower 
 fails. At eleven in the morning we perceived a fmall 
 mip before us we palled to leeward of her. There 
 were feven men upon her deck, pumping with all 
 
 their
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 259 
 
 their might ; the water ran cut of all the fcuppers. 
 We neither of us made much way, and in tacking, 
 fometimes pailed fo dole, that I feared the next wave 
 would have run us foul of each other. 1 he Pilot 
 in his red night cap, called out to us through a fpeak- 
 ing trumpet, that he had not been four and twenty 
 hours from Bourdeaux, and was bound to Ireland. 
 We fufpected him by his hafte, and the bad condition 
 of his vcffel to be a {muggier, it is cuftomary at 
 fea, as well as on land, to form our opinions of Gran- 
 gers by their appearance. 
 
 ABOUT ten o'clock, the wind fubfided ; the clouds 
 feperated into two long ranges, between which the 
 fun fhone out. All the fails were now let, and men 
 placed upon the main top to look out, her head was 
 kept to the North Eaft, that we might have the bet- 
 ter chance for feeing land before evening. 
 
 At four o'clock we faw a fmall fmack, which we 
 hailed, but me did not anfwer : fbe was driving before 
 the wind. At five o'clock a man aloft, called out, 
 land^ U'.r.d^ to Leeward we immediately went v.pon 
 deck and many of the people ran up the ihrcucls, 
 we prefently diftinguifned rocks, that whitened 
 as we approached they were thought to be the 
 mountains of Penmanmaur. We lay too during the 
 night, and at break of day perceived the coaft three 
 leagues a head : but nobody knew what land it was. 
 The wind was fcant, and by no means fuited to our 
 impatience. At length we faw a boat, and hailing 
 her, was anfwered, that me had a Pilot on board. 
 Overjoyed at hearing the voice of a Frenchman juft 
 come from his native more the crew ran with eager- 
 nefs to the Ihip's fide to fee the Pilot come aboard 
 What cbeer* & other, laid the Captain, what land is 
 
 S 2. that ?
 
 260 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 that? Beileifle, faid the Pilot "D'ye think we /hall 
 have a breeze ?" "Arfit pleafe God tnajler 9 perhaps 
 we may" 
 
 HE had brought with him a large barley loaf, 
 which having been baked in France, we very foon 
 eat up for him. 
 
 THE calm lafted all day ; towards evening it frefh- 
 ened, and in the morning we were along fide the Ifle 
 of Grois and came to an anchor. 
 
 THE cuftom-houfe officers came on board; and 
 after them a croud of fi mermen. We bought fome 
 frefh fifh, determining to eat our laft meal together ; 
 during which, we got up, we fat down again> but we 
 did not eat, we could think of nothing, we could 
 look at nothing, but the coaft of France. 
 
 THE crew were overwhelmed at the thoughts of 
 their return home, with a joy, that mewed itfelf in 
 the moft extravagant ways I fpoke to feveral, but 
 could not get an anfwer from one of them I therefore 
 agreed with a Fifherman to carry me and my baggage 
 on more, and having taken a hearty and friendly leave 
 of the Captain, went ineo the boat, and was foon 
 landed thanking God for having once more reflored 
 me in fafety to my native country. 
 
 LET-
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 261 
 
 LETTER XXVIII. 
 
 ON VOYAGES AND VOYAGERS. 
 
 IT is cuftomary to try in the beginning of a book 
 to gain the good will of the reader, who very 
 often does not read the preface at all ; in my opinion 
 'tis much better to wait till the end to the very mo- 
 ment when he is going to form his opinion ; then it 
 is impoflible for him to efcape without paying 
 attention to the Authors excufes the following are 
 mine. 
 
 I have compofed this work as well as I could, and 
 nothing has been wanting to give it all the perfection 
 I am capable of giving it if it is ill executed it is 
 not therefore my fault ; for one mould be blamed for 
 doing ill, but when we can do better, 
 
 IF the ftyle is faulty, I mall be very glad to fee it3 
 errors pointed out; it mall be my tafk to corre<5b them. 
 During the ten years I have been abfent from my 
 country, I have almoft forgotten my own lan- 
 guage, and I have obferved that it is often of greater 
 ufe to fpeak well, than to think, or even to act well, 
 My conjectures and my ideas of nature, are materials 
 which I defign for the conftruction of a confiderable 
 edifice ; till I am able to elevate which, I fubmit them 
 to criticifm. Juft cenfures are like thaws, which dif-r 
 folve foft ftones, but harden hewn ones. I mall trouble 
 you with one more obfervation only, which I mail now 
 S 3 make
 
 262 VOYAGE -to ~tlre ISL-S OF FRANCE. 
 
 make life of twas faid, " a Saint began with a fingle 
 {tone, what afterwards became a magnificent Abby ' 
 he atchieved this miracle by time and patience, for 
 my part 'tis no- wonder if 1 loft both the one -and the 
 other. 
 
 HAVING faid enough of myfelf, let us go on to 
 more important objects 'Tis rather fmgular that 
 that there has not been one voyage pubiifhed by 
 thofe of our writers who have the greateft fame in 
 literature and philofophy. We have no model of 
 this io interefting fpecies of writing and we mail 
 long want one, iince Monfieur de Voltaire, D'Alem- 
 bert, Buffbn, and Roufleau have given us none. 
 Montaign * and Montefquieu have written their tra- 
 vels, but have not pubiifhed them. It cannot be 
 faid that they thought thofe countries in Europe 
 where they had been, fufficiently known ; fince they 
 have made fo many new obfervations on even our own 
 manners which arefo familiar to us. I believe this fpecies 
 of writing, fo little attempted, abounds with difficulties. 
 It is neceifary that there mould be an almoft univerfal 
 knowledge, a plan well arranged, warmth of ftyle, 
 and truth. One muft fpeak of every thing. 
 
 IF any fubject is omitted, the work is imperfect 
 If all is laid that' can be faid, one becomes diffufc 
 and uninterefting. 
 
 WE have notwithstanding fome valuable writers of 
 voyages, ot -whom Addifon is in my opinion among the 
 foremoft Unluckily he is not a Frenchman. Char- 
 din is phiioiophic, but prolix. -The Abbede Choifi 
 
 * Since the Author wrote this It tier, the mamifcript of Mon- 
 fieur Mor.t -ijrn's travels through Italy was found in an old cheft, 
 and was publifned at Paris in the courie of laft year. T. 
 
 c v . M i. : , .: . ,-... faves
 
 VOYAGE/9/^ ISLE OF FRANCE. 263 
 
 faves the reader the irkfomnefs of a fea journal -^-he is 
 agreeable, but that is all we can fay of him. Tour- 
 nefort describes learnedly the monuments and plants 
 of Greece, but on fuch a fubjeft as the ruins of 
 Athens a man mould write with more feeling. La 
 Hontan fpeculates, and fometimes bewilders himfelf in 
 the folitudes of Canada. Lery defcribes the manners 
 of the Brafilians, as well as his own adventures, 
 with a pleafing fimplicity. From thefe different geni- 
 ufes might be compofed one excellent one but every 
 man has one peculiar to himfelf for inftance, 
 the failor who wrote in his journal that he " pafled 
 44 by Teneriff at the diftance of four leagues, the 
 " inhabitants of which place feemed very affable.'* 
 
 SOME Travellers fpeak on one fubject only; 
 this feeks after monuments, ftatues, infcriptions, me- 
 dals, &x. If they meet with a man of extraordinary 
 learning, they beg of him to write his name and 
 fome ientence in their a bum. Althou gh this 
 cuftom is a commendable one, I mould prefer an en- 
 quiry after examples of probity, virtue and great- 
 nefs of foul of the moft eminent men of each 
 place. Had I written my voyages to the north, 
 the world would have feen therein, :he names of Ol- 
 gorouki, the Palatine Xatorinfki, Duval, &c. Re- 
 markable buildings would not have been unnoticed, 
 fuch as the Arfcnal of Berlin, and the Royal Academy 
 of Cadtts at Peterfburg : As to fubjedh of antiquity, 
 I confefs that they infpire me with none but the moft 
 gloomy ideas. A triumphal arch is to me a proof of 
 the weaknefs of human nature and the uncertainty of 
 its purfuits ; the column, the ftatue remains,- 
 but the conqueror to whofe honour they were erected, 
 js no more. 
 
 S 4 I
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE.' 
 
 I prefer the tendril of a vine to a pyramid, and 
 fhould with far greater pleafure import to France ond 
 nutritive plant, than the filver fhield of Scipio. 
 
 IN the fame degree that the arts become naturalized 
 among us nature herfelf is eitranged We are even 
 fo artificial that we give to objects, merely natural, 
 the appellation of curiofuies^ and feek for proofs ot 
 divinity among books, in which (thole of reve- 
 lation apart) but vague reflections and general indi- 
 cations of univerfal order are to be found, Yet would 
 we mew the ingenuity: of an artift, we fliould rather 
 particularize the feveral parts of his work, than give 
 a general definition only .of it. Nature prefents to us 
 relations fo very ingenious, intentions fo beneficient, 
 and fcenes, which though mute, and I might even fay 
 imperceptible, are fo expreflive, that they rnuft in-, 
 fluence the moft inattentive mind and excite an 
 exclamation of, furely there is a GOD. 
 
 THE art of defcribing natural objects is fo little 
 known or ufed, that terms to exprefs them are not yet 
 invented. Attempt but the description of a moun- 
 tain in fuch manner that it mail be recognized ; when 
 you have fpoken of the bafe, the flanks, and the 
 fummit, you have faid every thing. But what a va- 
 riety is difcernable in thefe forms, round, long, flat, 
 hollow 'tis a mafs of words without information. 
 The difficulty is the fame as to hills and vailies If a 
 man were to defcribe a palace, he could do it with- 
 out being the leait einbarrafled 'Tis of fome of the 
 five orders of architecture 'tis fubdivided into fur- 
 bafe, principal ftory, entablature; and in each of 
 thefe, from the plinth to the cornifh, there is 
 not a fingle moulding without its proper name. 
 
 WE
 
 VOYAGE to tbe ISLE OF FRANCE. 265 
 
 WE need not wonder then at the imperfect accounts 
 travellers give of natural objects In delineating a 
 country, they tell you of towns, rivers, and moun- 
 tains, but thepicture is as barren, and conveys as lit- 
 tle idea to the imagination, as a mere geographical 
 
 chart Of Indoitan or of Europe, 'tis all one. 
 
 The phyfiogncmy (if the expreffion may be allowed) 
 is not there. Do they fpeak of a plant ? they give a 
 detail of the flowers, the leaves, the bark, the roots -, 
 but its port, its femblage,, elegance, or inelegance 
 are not to be defined The fimilitude of an object 
 depends upon the harmony, the unity, and connection 
 of its feveral parts for you may have the meafure 
 and proportion of ail the mufcles in a man's body, 
 but you will not therefore have his portrait. 
 
 IF travellers, who have treated of nature, 
 are defective in point of exprefilon, they amply make 
 -up by the abundance of their conjectures. For a 
 long time I was induced to believe, from the accounts 
 I had read, that men might live in the woods in a ftate 
 of nature. .1 did not find one fmgle wild, and unknwon 
 'fruit, that was fit to eat in all the Ifle of France ; and 
 thofe I tailed, I did fo at the hazard of being poiibned. 
 Some few indeed were of a tolerable tafte, but of thele 
 'twould have been hardly poflible to collect enough for 
 the breakfaft of a monkey there are indeed feveral 
 noxious roots, that are bulbous and of a fort called 
 Nymphea, (or Water Lilly) but even thefe grow under 
 water, where 'tis not likely our man in the ftate of 
 nature would feek for them. At the Cape I expected 
 to have found mankind better fupplied. 1 faw arti- 
 chokes of a fine frefh colour growing upon bufhes ; 
 but they were fo crabbed, they were 'not eata- 
 ble. In the woods of France and Germany there 
 js no other than the maft of the beach and the fruit of 
 
 the
 
 the chefnut and thefe laft but a fhort feafon. It ia 
 affirmed that in the golden age of the Gauls, our ancef. 
 tars lived upon acorns , but the acorns of onr oaks 
 are too aftringent, thofe of the green oak only being 
 digeftible. It is alfo rarely found in France, altho' 
 very commonly in Italy, 
 
 THE firs in the forefts of the north yield a kind of 
 apple, upon which the fquirrels feed greedily, but I 
 doubt they are not proper for the food of men. Na- 
 ture would have dealt but hardly with the fovereign 
 of the animal world, had me fprcad a plenteous table 
 for every other race of beings, and left him cieftitute j 
 but that he alone is endued with reafon, and a d fpo- 
 fition to fociety, without which the former would 'be 
 but of little ufe to to him. From this one obferva- 
 tion we may draw the following confequences that 
 the moil itupid peafant is fupenor to the moft intelli- 
 gent animal which no art could teach to till, to 
 fow, and reap, that man is born for fociety, and 
 incapable of living without it ana that the comum- 
 Rity owes to each individual ihat fu:-h fiance, which 
 community alone can provide, and without which the 
 individual muft periflu 
 
 ANOTHER faujk of travellers- is, their placing hap- 
 pinefs any where rather than in their native country. 
 Their deicriptions of foreign countries are fo entirely 
 agreeable, that they incline one ever after to be out of 
 humour with ones own. 
 
 NATURE feems in ray opinion to have more equally 
 distributed her good things, than we may at firrt ap- 
 prehend. 1 know .not whether to prefer a very hot, 
 or a very cold climate. The latter is the more whol- 
 fome i moreover die cold is an inconvenience ealily 
 
 to
 
 y O Y A G E to the ISLS OF FRANCE. 267 
 
 - . 
 
 to be remedied, whereas the heat, is hardly to be en- 
 clured, and can never be avoided. For one fix 
 months I have feen the landfchape about Peteriburg 
 perfectly white , for another fix months I have feea 
 the lileof France totally black , add to this the de- 
 ftrudlion occafioned by the vermin and the hurri- 
 canes, and which then mall we chufe ? It is true 
 that in India the trees are in leaf all the year round, 
 and bear fruit without being grafted and that the 
 birds are numerous and beautiful, but all things 
 confidered I give France the preference, efpecially 
 if the conftant fpectacles of mifery be confidered in 
 the eftimate for the fight of one man in a ftate of 
 wretchednefs is fufficient to effectually deftroy my 
 happinefs. Can one think without horror that Afri- 
 ca, America, and a great part of Alia are in flavery ? 
 In Indoftan all directions to fervants are delivered 
 with a flroke of a rattan , infomuch, that the cane 
 has obtained the title of King of the Indies -, even in 
 the boafted country of China, corporal punifhmcnts 
 are inflicted for the moft trifling offences. Among 
 us, culprits- even, are treated with fome degree of 
 confideration as men. How defolate, how rigid fo- 
 cver the northern climates may be deemed nature in 
 its rudeft ftate will ftill in fome refpeft prefent me 
 with a pleafmg profpe<5t. I have been witnefs of 
 very affecting fcenes even among the rugged rocks of 
 Finland. I have feen r there, fummers finer and more 
 ferene than thofe of the tropics, days without night, 
 lakes fo covered with fwans, ducks, woodcocks, plo- 
 vers, &c. that ' one might fay they had forfaken all 
 other waters to come hither and build their nefts. 
 ,J*he fides of the rocks are frequently covered with 
 inofs of a mining purple, and the Kloucva * with 
 
 * A beautiful kind of creeper with a red flower. 
 
 its
 
 263 VOYAGE te the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 its flowers of fcarlet, and leaves of lively green, ha-r 
 ving fpread abroad a carpet on the ground, meet? 
 with the flately fir^ and round the dufky pyramid 
 twines its fragrant branches, forming retreats alike 
 adapted to love or to philofophy. In a deep valley, 
 and on the margin of a meadow, flood the manfion 
 of a gentleman of family^ where repofe was undi- 
 fturbed, fave by the found of a torrent of water, 
 which the eye faw with pleafure falling and foaming 
 upon the black furface of a neighbouring rock. 
 'Tis true, that in winter the verdure and the birds dif- 
 appear together. Wind, mow, hoar froft, and hail 
 envelope and beat upon the hou{e % while chearful- 
 neis and hofpitality reign within. They will go fif- 
 teen leagues to vifit each other, and the arrival of a 
 friend proclaims a feftival for a week : * they drink 
 the healths of their guefts, their ladies, and their 
 great men, to the found of horns and drums. The 
 old men fit fmoaking by the fire and relate the feats 
 of their youth, while the young fellows in their boots, 
 dance to the fife or tabor, round the Finland maid ; 
 who in her furred petticoat, appears like Minerva irv 
 the midft of. the youths of Sparta. 
 
 IF their manners are uncouth, their hearts are not 
 without fenfibility They talk of love, of pleafure, 
 of Paris -, for Paris is the metropolis of the female 
 lex. 'Tis thither that the women of Ruffia, Poland, 
 and Italy come to learn the art of ruling the men, 
 
 * The women are of their parties, and 'tis but juft that as 
 they bear their hufbands company in the wars, they ihould pre- 
 f;de in their entertainments. Jnliances of conjugal afftcYion 
 among thefe people a: e frequent and exuaordinaty. The wives 
 of Tome general officers I have known, have followed their huf- 
 bands in the field from their firft entering into the army. 
 Now of the Authqr, 
 
 with
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 With ribbands and laces -, 'tis there the fair Parifian 
 exerts her power with humour ever gay, and graces 
 ever new, and tyrannizes over her Engiiili lover, who 
 throws at her feet, his gold, and harder to part with, 
 his melancholy -, while fhe, from the very bolbm or" 
 art, laughing prepares, a garland which binds by it* 
 pleafures every people of Europe, 
 
 OF all cities I mould prefer Paris, not for its di- 
 verfions, but becaufe its inhabitants are a good fort of 
 people^ and live in liberty. What are to me its 
 iplendid coaches, its Hotels, its crowded ftreets, its 
 public mews, its banquets, vifitings, and friend/hips as 
 loon difiblved as made. Thefe numerous pleafurcs 
 are productive of only fuperficial happinefs, and en- 
 joyment. Life ought not to be a mere fpectacle, 
 'Tisin the countty only that a man enjoys the genuine 
 feelings of his heart, and the pleaiiires of ibciety 
 with his wife, his children and friends. A country 
 life is preferable in every refpect to living in towns -, 
 the air is pure, the profpecls enlivening, the walks fine, 
 provilions at hand, and the manners of men, better, 
 becaufe more fimple. The lover of liberty depends 
 vipon heaven alone : here the mifer receives new pre- 
 fents hourly, the warrior gives himfelf up to the 
 ehace, the voluptuary places here his garden, and 
 the philofopher may indulge his meditations without 
 fear of interruption. Of animals, ihew me one more 
 ufeful than the ox, more noble than the horie, or 
 Uiore faithful than the dog. 
 
 OF all rural fcenes, I prefer thofe of my own country j 
 hot on account of their fuperior beauty, but becaufe 
 I have been brought up there. In a man's native 
 place there is a fecret attraction, a fomething affecting, 
 which is not the gift of fortune, nor can any other 
 communicate it. Where are the games of our infant 
 
 days ?
 
 270 VOYAGE to tie ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 days ? days when pleafure abounded without fore- 
 thought and without alloy ? What joy I have expe- 
 rienced at finding a bird's heft ! With what delight 
 have I cherifhed and careffed a partridge received 
 the ftrokes of its bill and felt under my hand the 
 palpitation of its heart and the Muttering of its 
 wings ! Happy the man who revifits the icenes 
 where every thing was beloved, every thing was ami- 
 able the meadow he had ran races in! ortheorchard 
 he had ravaged ! more happy he, who has never 
 quitted you, paternal roof, facred afylum ! The 
 wanderer returns indeed, but does not find his home , 
 of his friends, fome are dead, feme gone away; 
 
 his family is difperfed, his protectors -but life is 
 
 no more than a fhort voyage , and the age of man 
 like a winter's day. I will not however think upon 
 its troubles, but call to mind the virtues, the good 
 offices, and the conftancy of my friends. Perhaps 
 their names and my grateful acknowledgement may 
 continue to live even in thefe letters Perhaps they 
 may fometime reach even to you, amiable inhabi- 
 tants of the Cape ! For thee unhappy African, who, 
 on the rocks of Mauritius bewailed thy truly 
 wretched lot , it is not for my feeble hand to alleviate 
 thy griefs, or dry thy tears but if I have induced 
 thy tyrant matter to look upon them, with regret, and 
 upon himfelf, with remorfe as the caufe of them I 
 have nothing more to afk of India I mail have 
 made my fortune. 
 
 PARIS, January r, 1773. 
 
 LET-
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 271 
 
 L E T T E R XXIX. 
 OF TREES. 
 
 A^MONG the curiofities I have brought 
 jT\ are fome madrepores, which are very commojn 
 in the feas of India, the lllands in general being en- 
 compafled with them. They grow under water, and 
 form forefbs of feveral leagues extent, in which fifties 
 fwim about, as birds fly in the woods. The madre- 
 pores do not bear fruit, nor can they be included in 
 the vegetable fyftem , they are the work of an infi- 
 nite number of fmall animals, who unite their ef- 
 forts for the formation of thefe plants of the fea, 
 The fhrubs which I have fent with the madrepores, 
 are called litophites, and are, as well as the corals, 
 equally the work of fmall animals. This, which 
 you may look upon as a mere conjecture, is confirm- 
 ed by microfcopical obfervation. The chymical ex- 
 periments on this matter are rather uncertain, becaufe 
 the reafonings of chymiftry are founded upon the 
 diflblution of the fubjedt. At length, however a con- 
 cluiion is drawn from the regularity of thefe works, 
 in favour of the opinion, that they are produced and 
 effected, by beings actuated by a fpirit of order and 
 intelligence. After all, a ihrub is not more difficult 
 to make than an hexagonal cell of wax, as formed by 
 bees. The difpute fubfiiled for fome time; but all 
 the world is now agreed *. 
 
 * All the fptmijes have the figure of plants, and are branched 
 in fo many different ways, that we could hardly believe them tf 
 be the work of marine infi-cls, their texture is fo compact, and 
 their fibres fo delicate, that it is inconceivable how thefe animals 
 can lodge in them. BOUGAINVILLE, on Nat, Hirt. of Ifle <te 
 Malouines. T. 
 
 But
 
 272 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE* 
 
 IN my opinion, that every flower is inhabited,, 
 I (land entirely alone. * Do not think I mean to adopt 
 the Grecian fancy of the Hamadryads, that every 
 Laurel had its Daphne, and that every one unfortu- 
 nately killed by a Quoit; is the inhabitant of one fort 
 of tree -, or that all who die of felf-love mould be 
 lodged in the Narciffus. Could I ablblutely confirm 
 the truth of this fyrlern^ I mould riot thereby prove 
 the purpofe of univerfal happinefs to be advanced. 
 The legs and arms may be lopped off from the filters of 
 Phaeton, for a clown to make faggots of. My in- 
 habitants have no fuch lean, but they are wile, and 
 they are ingenious. 
 
 I AM aware that the fupport of this opinion, will 
 be more difficult, than of that with rcfpect to the 
 madrepores. Men intereft themfelves little about 
 what paffes at the bottom of the fea, but 'tis widely 
 different with flowers, which are objects generally 
 known and ufed, and have a received opinion affixed 
 to every thing relating to them. And yet I cannot 
 fee why our plants, which refemble the madrepores 
 in every other refpect, mould not in their being in- 
 habited alfov 
 
 EVERY machine of a natural conftruction has an 
 internal organization, which tends to a certain effect, 
 by a certain means. For example ; in the ear there 
 is a thin elaflic concave membrane called the tympa- 
 num, adapted to the reception of founds , and in the 
 eye, a fort of tranfparent and convex membrane, 
 which collects the rays of light upon the retina. The 
 ear is evidently contrived for the purpofe of hearing, 
 
 * See an Eifey on the fubjc&s of chymiftry which was publiflied 
 in 1771, by Dr. Watfon, then Prof cflbr of Ghymiitry, but fin ce,' 
 Reg. Prof, of Divinity of Cambridge. T, - 
 
 as-
 
 \ 
 VOYAGE to tie ISLE of FRANCE. 273 
 
 as the eye for feeing : never will a blind man fee by 
 means, of his ears, nor a deaf man hear with his eyes, 
 Jf then a tree is a machine, one part of it muft be 
 appropriated for the bearing of flowers, another for 
 the fpreading of the roots, both of which would in 
 that cafe, make their appearance, at the extremity of 
 the plant affigned to them by nature : but mould 
 we plant a willow at the waters edge, with the head 
 downwards, the roots would in due time bear leaves. 
 But we are not for this realbn to expect an hydraulic 
 machine to fprout from our planting a common pump 
 in the ground, or that laying in a lupine pofture any 
 animal incapable of turning himfelf, his claws or his 
 legs, would in procels of time grow out of his back. 
 
 CHANGE of pofition cannot affect the parts fo as 
 to caufe either to perform the office of the other ; in 
 every machine which has been invefligated, each part 
 produces its proper effect, nor can it be inftrumental 
 to any other. The laws of nature are fimple^ uni- 
 verfal, and conftant. 
 
 I LOOK upon a tree as a" republic,, and not as a 
 machine. As foon as a branch of a willow is planted 
 on the margin of a river, the little animals which 
 were mclofed in it, betake themfelves to :hofe parts 
 where their labours are moft immediately neceffary 
 All fecondary confiderations are laid afide. The 
 leaves are deferted and fall off. Some employ them- 
 felves in clofing the breach that has been made in 
 their habitation, by furrouridmg and covering it with 
 a bourrelet (or pad). Others have pumed forth in 
 the earth, long fubterraneous galleries, in fearch of 
 provifions and materials for the ufe of the communi- 
 ty. If they meet with a rock, they turn their courfe 
 another way, perhaps furround it with their labours, 
 to form a fupport for the fabrick they are conitruc- 
 
 T ting
 
 236 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF 
 
 ting. In fome fpecies, as in the oak, they drive dowrf 
 a long pivot (or tap root] which fupports the whole 
 habitation , each nation has its different manners : 
 Some build upon piles like the Venetians, others up- 
 on the furface of the earth y as the Savages raife their 
 cabbins or huts. 
 
 WHEN the diforder is fet to rights, they employ 
 themfelves in making magazines of provifions. Po- 
 pulation among the little republicans is very rapid, 
 becaufe of the cafe of fubfiiting. They live upon 
 oils and volatile falts 4 with which the air and the earth 
 abound. To obtain thofe of the air, they have re-- 
 courfe to the method practifed by failors when in 
 want of freih water, and as they fpead out their fails 
 in rainy weather, thefe difplay leaves, as fo many fur- 
 faces, which, that they may not be carried away by 
 the wind are moft ingenioufly faftened by one point of 
 fupport, at the extremity of a pliant and elaftic tail 
 or ftem. 
 
 SOME of them afcend through the trunk with drops 
 of liquor, others again defcend by the bark with the 
 fuperfluous aliment. 
 
 IF the >,aves were formed by the fap> as may be 
 imagined by fome, the fruit and flowers might be fo 
 likewife : but, graft a wild ftock -, the fruits of the 
 graft mall be good, while thofe of the flock mail not 
 be changed in the leail. If the fap which has af- 
 cended by the trunk of the graft, and has defcended 
 again by its bark, had partaken of any quality, it 
 would have fhewn itfelf in the fruits of the ftock. 
 But this does not appear, and why it does not is evi- 
 dent :. The animals of the ftock bring materials to- 
 clofe the orifice made for inferting the graft, which 
 .on their arrival, the inhabitants of the graft receive 
 
 and
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OP FRANCE. 
 
 and fabricate of them excellent fruits : whilft thofe of 
 the ftock continue to form their ufual indifferent 
 ones. The materials are the fame, the dudts are in 
 common, but the artificers are different. It may be 
 afked, how thefe beings are protected from an incle- 
 ment winter. They, as other animals, have inftinft- 
 tive precautions for their fafety ; they invelop their 
 houfes with coverings proportioned in number and 
 texture to the climate they are defigned by nature to 
 inhabit. The trees of the North, as the fir, the birch, 
 &c. have three feveral barks, thole of hotter coun- 
 tries have a fort of cuticles only, by which the fap 
 defcends. 
 
 THE fagacity of thefe animals mews itfelf in ano- 
 ther refpeft, they proportion the height of their 
 edifice to the fize and extent of its bafe. In laying 
 their foundations, they meet with a variety of ob-^ 
 ttructions, another tree, rocks, or an improper 
 foil when they have reached a certain depth. In the 
 air, they are not reftrained, except by conliderations 
 of fafety. We have a ftrong proof of this in plantjs 
 which twine and cling ; for they fpread themfelves to 
 a very great extent without flopping. Some of the 
 liannes have ihoots fo long, that it would be difficult 
 to find the ends of them. The beans which climb, 
 rife to an extreme height, while the marm bean fcarce- 
 ly attains to three feet thefe are notwithftanding 
 equally long lived. We fee alfo, that trees growing 
 on mountains, are low in ftature : thofe of the fame 
 fpecies in deep and flickered vallies, that have no fear 
 of the winds, rife with more boldnefs to a far greater 
 height ; and I am perluaded, that if an elm in the 
 courfe of its growth, were to pafs through a number 
 of terrafles, its inhabitants would with courage lay a 
 feparate foundation in each, and raile the head to a, 
 height that would be prodigious. 
 
 T 2 THE
 
 276 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCES 
 
 THE Chinefe make a curious experiment, which 
 will confirm what I have juft advanced. They choofe 
 upon an orange-tree, a branch with its fruit, which 
 they bind hard with a brafs wire, and cover this liga- 
 ture with wet earth, upon which is prefently formed 
 a bourrelet (or pad) with roots, they then cut off 
 this little tree, and with its large fruit fet it upon a 
 table. Had it been left in its original fituation, it 
 would have formed a fecond ftage of orange-tree. 
 Here then we have another proof that trees are not 
 machines, becaufe they can always grow, and have 
 no determined fize; 
 
 * Monfieur Bougainville fays, that in Otaheitee weeping wil- 
 lows are allowed to be planted before the houfes of great men on-i 
 ly, and that it is known, that by bending the branches of this 
 tree, and planting them in the ground, the fhadow may extend 
 
 as far, and in what direflion you pleafe. Of this tree thtf 
 
 dining hall of the Kings of Otaheitee is formed. T. 
 
 LET*
 
 VOYAGES to the ISLE OF PRANCE. 277 
 
 LETTER XXX. 
 
 Of FLOWERS. 
 
 THERE are many productions of nature, of which 
 our eyes will not enable us to form a judgment; 
 are we therefore to doubt of their exiftence , mall we 
 fay that the animals of which I ipeak are void of the, 
 feveral fenfes of tafte, fight, or feeling : as well may 
 we doubt that the Romans, who built the amphi- 
 theatre of Nimes, eat, drank, or flept, becaufe the 
 Hiftorians, who tell us of this building, do not make 
 particular mention of their doing fo. Your garden 
 is watered daily, and you afk whether its inhabitants 
 drink ? You know that when plants deprived of air, 
 decay almoft immediately ; and you again afk, whe- 
 ther they breathe ? Some flowers' are known to clofe, 
 and fhut up their leaves in the night ; and others not 
 only do fo, but even change their colours. Among 
 trees alfo, there are fome that clofe their leaves en- 
 tirely in the evening, as the tamarind-tree. Can we 
 then deny the influence of the light upon them, 
 when its effects are fo evident. 
 
 THE movement and contraction of the fenfitive 
 plant upon the approach of the hand towards it, 
 has been attriDuted to the animal heat ; but this 
 cannot be the cafe, becaufe I have feen it equally 
 to move and contract upon being touched with a 
 
 T 3 flick,
 
 278 VOYAGE to the ISLE QF FRANCE. 
 
 flick, a (tone being thrown towards it, and even by; 
 the wind *. Its powers of motion and contraction 
 can proceed therefore from no other than an intrinfic 
 caufe. 
 
 SHOULD it be objected, that thefe animals depart 
 from the univerfal "fyftem of felf-prefervation -, that 
 all others employ themfelves in labours ufeful to them- 
 felves, and thefe, in making flowers which anfwer no 
 purpofe but the pleafure and gratification of mankind, 
 and which, after all the pains and trouble beftowed' 
 in their formation, can fcarcely be faid' to exiit for a 
 day. A reply is ready from the continuation of the 
 account of their proceedings : The mother-country, 
 and fpeaking of inhabitants^ the expreffion I think 
 rr.ay be allowed) being now too populous, the next 
 care is to fend forth colonies. The fine weather in the 
 fpring, is the time chofen for this purpofe, and for 
 providing fuftenance for the emigrants. Sugar, milk 
 and honey are collected, and depofited in build- 
 ings conftructed with admirable ingenuity. The 
 heat and action of the fun is now of the greateft con- 
 fequence, as well to bring to perfection the p'rovifi- 
 ons, as to. promote and accelerate the fponfalia. 
 
 IT fhould feem, that this politic people, when they 
 colonife, unite their colonilts by ties the moft forci- 
 
 * A new fpecies of Senfitive Plant has been lately difccvcred in 
 the marfhy parts of North Ameiica, which has been tranfplanted 
 to England, and grows there. It is called the Dionaea Mufcipuia, 
 cr Vniut Aitrafemouche. Its leaf is ho fooner touched by a fly or 
 other infect, than it folds itfelf over it's prey, and remains in that 
 compreffed Rate till the captive is entirely confuted. It will cl&fe 
 up equally if touched by a rtraw, hair, or pin. Experiment has 
 not yet afcertaiivd, whether this plant derives its ncurifhment 
 irom the flies it takes ; but it ieenvs very likely that it does fo, 
 ai d if thi* be the cafe, the Aitraf,einoucbg tends more than all hi- 
 tkerto known, of the different fpecies of the Polypus, to confirm 
 til* analogy between animah aud vegetables. T, 
 
 ble
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 279 
 
 ble, that nature knows or is capable of, they adopt the 
 megfure of government when eftablifhing our iettle- 
 ments on the Miffiifiippi, who fent out very few per- 
 fons, but fuch as were newly married. 
 
 THE males erect little hollow tubes, on the tops of 
 which they form lodgements of golden duft, from 
 whence they defcend to the bottom of the flowers, 
 where the females expect them with impatience. 
 
 THE flower, appears to be the work of the female 
 It is hung with the moft beautiful fattins, purple 
 Iky-blue black. One may fancy it a bridal-cham- 
 ber, whence are exhaled the moft flagrant perfumes, 
 Or it may be called a vaft temple, in which at once 
 are celebrated an infinity of nuptial ceremonies each 
 leaf is a bed each ftamina a bride and many famir 
 lies inhabit under the fame roof. 
 
 SOMETIMES the females make their appearance by 
 themfelves upon one tree, and the males upon ano- 
 ther. Perhaps in thefe republics, the ftronger fex. 
 keeps the weaker one in fubjection, and will not ad- 
 mit them to aflbciate upon public occafions, altho* 
 there is a neceflity for making ufe of them upon par- 
 ticular ones. Like the Amazons of old, who were 
 ierved by flaves of the male fex, but allied themfelves 
 with none but free people. 
 
 IN the palm-tree, the female alone is employed ir* 
 preparing the conjugal bed ; which when perceived 
 by the male, he fubmits himfelf to the dilpoial of the 
 winds, and is by them tranfported upon thefe beds, 
 called by the botanifts, Prolific Duft. 
 
 I MAY feem on this occafion, to be tranfported by 
 my imagination beyond the bounds of probable rea- 
 
 T 4 fon-,
 
 28o VOYAGE to the ISLE OF KRANCE. 
 
 fon ; let me therefore return to my fubject #nd fpeak 
 of the form and fhape of flowers ; which is always 
 circular,, whatever be the form of the fruit. Their 
 leaves, or coronets are difpofed around as mirrors, 
 plain, fpherical, or'eliptic, fo as properly to 
 receive and reflect the heat to the. focus of their 
 curves, for the due formation of the embrio which 
 contains the feed. The flowers that yield feed are 
 fingle ones, becaufe the placing of one mirror behind 
 another, would have anlwered no end. 
 
 AMONG vegetables, the juices of which are vifcous 
 and lefs liable, to ferment, .fuch as bulbous and aqua- 
 tic plants, my little geometricians conftruct reverbe- 
 rating machines, in the form of furnaces, which, are 
 portions of cylinders, funnels, or bells, oblervable 
 in lillies, tulips, hyacinths, jonquils, liilies of the 
 valley,- narcifiuffes, &c. 
 
 THOSE that begin their labours early in the fpring, 
 adopt alfo this" prudent mode of formation, witnei 
 the primrofe, crocus, fno^-drop, &c, 
 
 THOSE that build expofed to the air, and that grow 
 but near to the ground as the duily andphTabed, form 
 mirrors neady plain. Thofe on the other hand, that 
 are fomethmg j;ore in the fhade, as violets and ftraw- 
 berries, form mirrors that are more concave/ 
 
 THOSE that attempt to tranfplant themfelves in hot 
 weather, contraft the circumference of the flower, in 
 order to diminifh the effeft, fuch are the blue -bell, 
 and pink, &c. Others, as the pomegranate and wild 
 poppy^ runiple up their leaves to ihelter the difk from 
 the iun, the two .great heat of its rays rendering fuch 
 a protection necellary, 'tis the fame in papilionaceous 
 flowers, -whofe form is. rather calculated to re-unite the 
 Direct rays of the fun. than to collect anew their re- 
 heat. - , ANOTHER
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 281 
 
 ANOTHER example of their attention, is, that the 
 flowers of fummer which have large cups, are faften- 
 ed to ligaments, by which they are rather fufpended 
 than fupported j they quickly lofe their flowers : of 
 this kind, are the wild poppy, the poppy, the flower 
 of the pomegranate, &c. 
 
 THERE is another fpecies, of which the fun-flower 
 is one, whofe leaves are difpofed as radii round the 
 circumference ; the flower is here placed upon a flexi- 
 ble knee, by means of which, the inhabitants arc 
 conflantly turning it towards the fun. One might 
 fancy them fo many Academicians, directing a telef- 
 cope, or reflecting mirror towards that luminary. 
 
 The fame prudent conduct is remarkable with re- 
 fpect to the colours of flowers,- white and yellow 
 being the moft adapted for collecting the reflected 
 rays i the generality of fpring and autumnal flowers 
 Jare of thofe or fuch like bright and clear teints; 
 the degree of heat being fo fmall makes the ufe of 
 active mirrors necefiary. 
 
 THE flowers of thefe two feafons which are of a 
 deep red, as the anemony, piony, and fome fort of 
 tulips, have their centers black, as moft proper to 
 abforb the rays immediately. The fummer flowers 
 are of deeper colours, and lefs adapted for reverber- 
 ation. In this feafon we frequently fee blue and red, 
 but black very rarely, becaufe it never reflects at all. 
 Poppies which are of a deep brown, are, if expofed 
 to the fun, burnt up before the flower is developed. 
 
 THE elevation of plants, their fize, their colour 
 the form in which they are cut or fcolloped, feem 
 
 all
 
 28 2 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 all combinecl in a, wonderful harmony Confidered 
 in this light, flowers inftead of being mere objects of 
 pleafure, are fit fubjects of ftudy for the ableft geome- 
 tricians. 
 
 NATURE in all her difpofitions is equally bountiful 
 andjuft Things for our ufeare furmfhed to us with 
 fimplicity : for iuperfluity and enjoyment, with mag- 
 nificence. Corn, olive trees and vines, are inftances 
 of the former, flowers, and many other beautiful 
 natural productions, of the latter 
 
 THE animals of India as they differ from ours in 
 their wants, are equally different in their operations 
 in our climates, heat is neceffcry : our animals 
 therefore form the flowers before the leaves. And 
 farther north, they build a folid flower and cover it 
 with fcales thefe are ranged in a conoid form upon 
 a fort of efpalier. The fir tree and the birch would 
 be parched up in hot countries, wherefore they never 
 grow there, 
 
 THE trees of India are full of fpreading leaves, 
 under the fhade of which grow the flowers. Their 
 circumference is never very compact, as may be leen 
 in the orange or citron trees, 
 
 ON trees that have but few leaves, as the agathis, 
 the various forts of palms, the date, cocoa, and la- 
 tamer, the flowers grow in pendant clufters In this 
 inverted ftate, they are not liable to be fcorched by 
 the .fun, having no other heat than a reflected one. 
 Trees of Europe bearing flowers in clufters, bear 
 them upright, as the vine, lilach, &c. 
 
 To
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 283 
 
 To conclude In Europe the flowers feem to feek 
 for the fun i in India, to avoid and Ihun it, the 
 greater number either growing clofe to the trunk of 
 the tree, or elfe hang down in bunches as thole above 
 clefcribed. 
 
 LETTER XXXI. 
 
 OF FRUITS. 
 
 IT may be alledged as an argument againft the fyf- 
 tem for which I contend, that my animalcules 
 reafoning too much from confequences, feem therein 
 even to be wifer than men. Wherefore is this but 
 becaufe the animal is endued with an inftinct, equal 
 in effect to that experience which man is ever arriving 
 at, and never attains to. The fpider, weaves as foon 
 as it iffues from the egg The portion of intelligence 
 afforded to each fpecies is perfect from the beginning, 
 and fuffices for all the wants of the animal 'Tis a 
 general obfervation, that the fmaller the animal, the 
 greater its induftry Among birds, the fwallow is 
 more alert than the oftrich : of infects none is fo 
 fmall, nor is any fo laborious as the ant Activity 
 and adroitnefs feem given to the weaker animals as 
 a compenfation for the want of ftrength and mine 
 being fo much fmaller than all thefe ; I am juilified 
 \n believing that they are alfo more intelligent. 
 
 A
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCS. 
 
 A degree of heat being amaiTed, fufftcient to unite 
 the families at the bottom of the calice or cup of the 
 flower, the whole nation is employed in carrying thi- 
 ther honey and milk. This iaft is a fuftenance ap- 
 parently defigned for all animals when in their infant 
 itate ; even the yolk of an egg, if 'tis diffoivc'l in 
 water, is converted to a confiflence like cream. The 
 colony then takes up its refidence in the part called 
 the Bourgeon, (or bud). The provilions are ranged 
 around, under the appearance of milk, which is 
 loon after changed to an oily, and more folid fub- 
 ilance. 
 
 To protect this colony from accidents it might be 
 liable to, it is, together with its provifions, envelo- 
 ped in a (hell. This covering is fometimes as hafd as 
 a ftone , great care however is taken to leave an 
 opening, as in nuts, or fmall holes at the end, co- 
 vered by a valve by this outlet, the young family 
 find egrefs. Not one (ingle grain is known, but 
 what is in its organifation, raited to this purpofe. 
 
 NOR in advancing this, do I attribute to them a 
 greater degree of intelligence, than is feen in other in- 
 fects. The fpider lays its eggs in a bag, which alfo 
 has its orifice. The iilk worm flints itfelf up in a 
 pod, of a texture wonderfully compact, except in 
 that part towards the head, which is fo contrived as 
 to allow it to efcape from its, confinement at the pro- 
 per time this precaution is common to all vermicular 
 infects. But all animals that unite their labours, have 
 infinitely more ingenuity in their proceedings, than 
 thole which work individually theie, exceed in inge- 
 nuity all others for, while they conitruct the build- 
 ing, and collect provifions for the fupport of the in- 
 fant colony, left the work mould be deftroyed by the 
 birds, or other animals, it is environed with a fub- 
 
 ftancc
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 285 
 
 fiance of a naufeous tafte, as the external coat of 
 walnuts, which is bitter, or fortified with prickly 
 points, as the fliell of the chefnut. Thefe operations 
 of my animalcules originate from the fame caufe,. 
 which directs the rabbit to dig itfelf a burrough in 
 the earth-, the lapwing to fu-fpend its neft by a few 
 threads and the duckling to take to the waiter, before 
 
 O 
 
 it has feen the drake iwim u-pon the furface. Let us 
 not wonder then that the role bufh is armed with 
 prickles, and protected all over, by the fame means, 
 which the chefnut has provided for its fruit alone. 
 
 THIS defence is commonly feen among mrubs that 
 grow on the borders of the woods, and are expofed 
 to the ravages of beafts that feed there The fea 
 rum, the bramble, the black and red thorn, the 
 goofeberry tree, and even the nettle and thiftle, 
 which grow by the way fide, are furnifhed with 
 prickly points for their defence. They are in fact to 
 the woods, as frontier towns are to a province. 
 
 THE colony once fupplied with the necefTary pro- 
 vifions, have various modes of tranfplanting, or 
 tranfporting themfelves-- thofe fufpended aloft in the 
 air, have nothing to do but to fufier themfelves to 
 fall down the fruit drops, and after having reboun- 
 ded a few times, reds perhaps thirty paces from the 
 parent tree. And here I muft remark that thofe fruits 
 which fall from a great height, are rounder and hard- 
 er in proportion to their fall The acorn, the maft 
 of the fir tree, the chefnut, the common nut, the 
 pine apple, are in their feveral ways protected from 
 the violence of the ftroke they receive in coming to 
 the ground. Nature having pre-contrived when fhe 
 raifed them fo far above the earth, that their return to 
 it, mould not be attended with ill confequences. On 
 
 the
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE, 
 
 the other hand, the artificers of the linden treej 
 which grows in moift and fwampy grounds, know 
 very well, that fhould they conftruft unweildy co- 
 verings, their weight would bury them in the fame 
 place they fell. Wherefore, their feed is fixed to a 
 long fibre or feather, with which it is let down by de- 
 grees, and carried away by the winds. The willow; 
 which grows in the fame kind of foil, has its tufts of 
 feathers as well as the reed. The feeds of the elm, 
 are placed in the midft of a large follicle or purfe ; 
 by means of thefe, which ferve them as wings, they 
 are tranfported to any diilance. By the conitruclion 
 of its feedj I mould be induced to think the elm de- 
 figned for the inhabitant of the valley. We need no 
 longer wonder that the cherry and peach tree rife but 
 to a middling ftature. A full grown peach which 
 mould fall from the heiget of an elm, would not go 
 far. How then, you will fay, do thofe that are mere 
 fhrubs, fuch as the blue bell, artichoke, thiftie, &c. 
 for they cannot roll away from where they lit. I an- 
 fwer, that thefe alfo affix their colonies to a kind of 
 wings, and they are then tranfported by the wind. 
 In autumn you may fee the air full of them. They 
 are fufpended with equal induftry as ingenuity, and 
 however far they travel, the feed always fails perpen- 
 dicularly ; and there are fome fort of peas with elailic 
 (hells, which when ripe, moot forth their feed to the 
 diftance of ten or twelve feet. Do you now think 
 that a plant is no more than an hydraulic machine ? 
 
 FURTHER, as the inhabitant of the chefnut, and 
 other fruits which I have mentioned, protect: them-' 
 fclves from the attacks of the birds fo the flrawber- 
 ry, and the rafberry, make their enemies fubfervient 
 to their purpofes. The former, are warriors, the 
 latter, politicians. They environ themfelves with a 
 fubftance, alluring to the eye and grateful to the 
 
 tafte.
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 28? 
 
 tafte. The birds feed upon this fubftance, and are 
 nourifhed by it -, and by a natural operation, fow the 
 feeds again in the earth. They devour the fruit, but 
 this does not damage the feed, which is too hard to 
 be affefted by their digeftive powers. Many other 
 fruits that have ftones in them, are fown by the fame 
 means. This finefie is not peculiar to the animals 
 of our hemifphere. The nutmeg, is a kind of peach, 
 growing in Molucca , its nuts bring in a large revenue 
 to the States of Holland ; who, that they may referve 
 to themfelves the benefits rifmg from it, have endea- 
 voured to deftroy and eradicate this tree, in the iflands 
 that do not belong to them ; but their attempts are in 
 vain: a particular fpecies of fea fow), fowing it, foon 
 after they have eaten it. Thus weak is man, when he 
 militates againfl nature : a whole nation could not ex- 
 tirpate one fmgle vegetable. 
 
 THE King of Prufiia for the encouragement of po- 
 pulation, once gave orders to cut down fome forefts, 
 to provide lands for new married people. It was re- 
 prefented to him, that this meafure would occafion a 
 icarcity of timber ; to which he made anfwer, " I 
 bad much rather have men in my dominions, than 
 trees." Can it be fuppofed that the fovereign ruler 
 of all things, would not rather chufe for his iubjectsj 
 animate beings, than mere uninformed machines ? 
 
 WE have feen animalcule moving in the juice of 
 plants and although they are too minute for us, 
 their various operations are imperceptible to our or- 
 gans, though affifted by the bed microfcopes : yet 
 they as certainly labour, aft in concert, and perform 
 every thing elfe I have related of them, as the ani- 
 mal inhabitants of the Madrepores, and Litophites 
 for as thefe are the plants of the fea, the others 
 are in like manner the Madrepores of the air. 
 
 You
 
 2.88 VOYAGE to the ISL OF FRANCE. 
 
 ^ You will fay, they certainly differ in their con- 
 flruction, becaufe the Madrepores do not bear fruit 
 but this is an opinion rather ftarted, than to be re- 
 ceived. For'tistobeconftderecl, thatthey liveinafluid, 
 where their fruits . can neither fall nor roll ; to what 
 end then mould they environ the colony with a cum- 
 berfome body , or with a lighter fubftance, like thft 
 wad which furfounds the fefcds, which are to fall in 
 the water. 
 
 IT is certain however, that a milky juice has been 
 feen in their flowers, like that in the feeds of our 
 fruits, which milk is difperfed in the fea like the 
 ipawn of fiili. 
 
 . . . / 
 
 ARTS and manners differ, in different elements; 
 a failor and a citizen, are both of them men, but a 
 fhip and a houfe, are by no means conftruded alike. 
 
 THE little animals, builders of the plants in the 
 air, live in an element which appears to be in perpe- 
 tual motion,T-the moil gentle zephyr, is to them a 
 hurricane. They have taken the molt prudent pre- 
 cautions to fecure the foundations of their edifices,: 
 and to tranfport their families without rifk of their 
 being damaged or fcattered abroad. 
 
 THOSE Wno build in the fea, live in a fluid, which 
 is not altogether fp daftly put in motion-, arid when once 
 agitated, moves in waves and large maffes. The drops 
 are not fo active and penetrating as the globules, of 
 which the air is formed, and which are inceffantly 
 dilated, and contracted, by different degrees of heat 
 or cold. They do not therefore require to be fo 
 carefully incloled, as thofe feeds, which are liable to 
 be fo eaftly diflipated. Their milk is befides of a 
 more vifcous nature, not eaftly diftblved.
 
 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 289 
 
 j , JF the animals of the water, had inhabited a ftill 
 more folid element, for example, the earth; they 
 Would not have been expofed to any fort of agitation. 
 And it is probable that they would then have had no 
 pccaiion to put down roots, to raife a ftem, fpread 
 out leaves, fafhion flowers, or fabricate fruits, as do 
 thole that inhabit the air. 
 
 IN confirmation of my afiertion ; the truffle has 
 hone of the parts abovementioned, nor has it any uie* 
 for them. To what end mould there be flowers on a 
 plane that never fees the fun, or roots to a vegetable 
 hot expofed to any mock ? I have heard many people 
 lay, they cannot divine by what means the truffle is 
 reproduced : its revivifcency is in rny opinion, effect 
 ed by the communication of its animalcule with each 
 other through the interior parts of the foil it grows in, 
 where reigns a calm eternal and undifturbed. The 
 fluid being tranquil, the communication, cannot but 
 be eafy no veffels are neceffary, for the little inha- 
 bitants may fwim along in fafety. One would be al- 
 moll forry that the animals of fo charming a fruit, 
 mould be fo indolent, and of fuch apparent incapacity: 
 but the endowments of every being, are proportioned 
 to its necefllties and man, of all beings the moil in- 
 digent, is at the fame time the moft intelligent, 'Tis 
 to be wifhed indeed, that he were the happieft ; and 
 yet the inhabitants of the truffle, though k-fs fenfiblc 
 than others, may perhaps be more contented 
 
 HAVING accounted I hope, for. the ordinary caufes 
 of vegetation, if you are not yet fatisfied, I will now 
 fpeak of its extraordinary productions : and my belt 
 mode of doing this, will be by anticipating fuch ob- 
 jections as I think you may probably make to what has 
 been already advanced ; and the rirll is one, which 
 you will lay perhaps, all the laws of hydraulics can- 
 not obviate. That a young tree, full of fap, fre- 
 
 U quently
 
 291 VOYAGE to the ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 fought after. Others have been mentioned, and ve- 
 ry juftly condemned by Monfieur Voltaire, for hav- 
 ing taken out the bowels of a living dog, to fhew 
 the fpectators the lacteal veins. 1 would by no means 
 encourage the practice of fuch barbarous experiments , 
 but my fyitem does not affect the life of the animals, 
 whole exillence it is meant to prove. For as they 
 are too minute to become the objects of vifion, fo 
 neither can they be affected by our powers- of di- 
 geftion. 
 
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