THIS BOOK
TO
MY DEAR FATHER AND MOTHER
20049S1
PREFACE
IN this book I have set down the record of a journey
in Tibet undertaken by me during the spring, summer,
and autumn of 1897. It is illustrated partly from my
photographs and partly from sketches made by me on the
spot. Only as regards the torture scenes have I had to
draw from memory, but it will be easily conceded that
their impression must be vivid enough with me.
The map is my own, made entirely f'-om my surveys
of an area of twelve thousand five hundred square miles
in Tibet proper. In Chapter VI. the altitudes of such
high peaks in India as Nanda Devi and others are taken
from the Trigonometrical Survey, and so are the positions
fixed by astronomical observations of the starting and
terminating points of my surveys at the spots where I
entered and left Tibet.
In the orthography of geographical names I have
adopted the course advised by the Royal Geographical
Society viz., to give the names their true sound as they
are locally pronounced, and I have made no exception
even for the grand and poetic " Himahlya," which is in
English usually distorted into the unmusical and unro-
mantic word " Himalaya."
PREFACE
I submit with all deference the following geographical
results of my expedition :
The solution of the uncertainty regarding the division
of the Mansarowar and Rakastal Lakes ;
The ascent to so great an altitude as 22,000 feet, and
the pictures of some of the great Himahlyan glaciers ;
The visit to and the fixing of the position of the
two principal sources of the Brahmaputra, never before
reached by a European ;
The fact that with only two men I was able to travel
for so long in the most populated part of Tibet.
In addition to the above, I am glad to state that owing
to the publicity which I gave in the Daily Mail to the
outrageous Tibetan abuses taking place on British soil,
the Government of India has this year (1898) notified
the Tibetan authorities that they will in future not be
permitted to collect Land Revenue from British subjects
there. This fact gives me special satisfaction, because of
the exceptional courtesy and kindness bestowed on me by
our mountain tribesmen, the Shokas.
The Government Report of the official investigation
of my case, as well as other documents substantiating the
details of my narrative, are printed in an appendix.
A. H. S. L.
September, 1898.
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I PAGE
FROM LONDON TO NAINI TAL I
CHAPTER II
LOADS A SET OF USEFUL PACK-SADDLE CASES PROVISIONS AND SCIENTIFIC
OUTFIT CLOTHES AND SHOES MEDICINES UNDER WAY THE FIRST
MARCH SERVANTS HOW I CAME TO EMPLOY FAITHFUL CHANDEN SING 4
CHAPTER III
PITHORAGARH FAKIR WOMEN A WELL-VENTILATED ABODE ASKOTE THE
RAJIWAR AND HIS PEOPLE 12
CHAPTER IV
THE RAOTS A SLIPPERY JOURNEY SUPERSTITIOUS NOTIONS ANGER AND
JEALOUSY FRIENDS TO THE HOMES OF THE SAVAGES PHOTOGRAPHY
HABITATIONS l8
CHAPTER V
A PILGRIM FROM MANSAROWAR LAKE THE SPIRITS OF THE MOUNTAINS A
SAFEGUARD AGAINST THEM TIBETAN ENCAMPMENTS THE RAJIWAR A
WATERFALL WATER-MILLS 2g
CHAPTER VI
HIGHWAYS AND TRADE 'ROUTES THE DARMA ROUTE THE DHOLI RIVER A
ROUGH TRACK CONNECTING TWO VALLEYS GLACIERS THREE RANGES
AND THEIR PEAKS ALTITUDES DARMA, JOHAR, AND THE PAIXKHA.\DA
PARGANAS THE HIGHEST PEAK IN THE BRITISH EMPIRE NATURAL
BOUNDARIES 39
CHAPTER VII
THE WORD BHOT AND ITS MEANING TIBETAN INFLUENCE TIBETAN ABUSES
THE EVER-HELPFUL CHANDEN SING THE FIRST SHOKAH VILLAGE
CHANDEN SING IN DISGRACE WEAVING - LOOM FABRICS ALL'S WELL
THAT ENDS WELL 45
vii
CONTENTS
CHAPTER VIII PAGE
PRAYER BY WIND-POWER PHOTOGRAPHY UNDER DIFFICULTIES A NIGHT OF
MISERY DRYING UP TWO LADY MISSIONARIES THEIR VALUABLE WORK
AN INTERESTING DINNER-PARTY AN "ECCENTRIC" MAN'S TEA-PARTY 5!
CHAPTER IX
DISCOURAGING REPORTS A STEEP ASCENT HOW I CAME TO DESERVE THE
NAME OF "MONKEY" HARD AT WORK PROMOTED IN RANK COLLAPSE
IN A GALE OF WIND TIME AND LABOR LOST 58
CHAPTER X
THE NERPANl, OR ' ' WATERLESS TRACK " EXAGGERATED ACCOUNTS A LONG
SHOT THE RESCUE OF TWO COOLIES PICTURESQUE NATURE AN INVOL-
UNTARY SHOWER-BATH THE CHAl PASS 63
CHAPTER XI
A SERIES OF MISFORTUNES TIBETAN ATROCITIES ON BRITISH SUBJECTS TIB-
ETAN EXACTIONS REVOLTING CRUELTY TO ONE OF HER MAJESTY'S SUB-
JECTS ASSAULT ON A BRITISH OFFICER A SMART BRITISH ENVOY . . 71
CHAPTER XII
TIBETAN THREATS MY BIRTHDAY RAVENOUS DOGS A BIG DINNER SHOKA
HOSPITALITY 78
CHAPTER XIII
SHOKA HOSPITALITY HOW I OBTAINED MUCH INFORMATION ON A RECON-
NOITRING TRIP A TERRIBLE SLIDE 84
CHAPTER XIV
A PALAVER TO SEE IS TO BELIEVE DANGERS AND PERILS ON THE SNOW AND
ICE THAR AND GHURAL STALKING A TIRING CLIMB TO l6,OOO FEET
THE COLLAPSE OF A SNOW BRIDGE 92
CHAPTER XV
AN EARTHQUAKE CURIOUS NOTIONS OF THE NATIVES A SHOKA TAILOR AND
HIS WAYS THE ARRIVAL OF SILVER CASH TWO ROCKS IN THE KALI
ARROGANCE OF A TIBETAN SPY 97
CHAPTER XVI
THE RAMBANG SHOKA MUSIC LOVE-SONGSDOLEFUL SINGING ABRUPT END-
ING SOLOS SMOKING WHEN MARRIAGE IS CONTEMPLATED THE DELANG
ADULTERY PUNISHMENT . 105
viii
CONTENTS
CHAPTER XVII
FUNERAL RITES PAGB
DEPARTURE OF THE SOUL CREMATION AMUSEMENT OF THE DEAD MAN'S
SOUL THE LAY-FIGURE FEASTING DOLEFUL DANCE TRANSMIGRATION
OF THE SOUL EXPENSIVE CEREMONIES OFFERINGS BEFORE THE LAY-
FIGURE DANCING AND CONTORTIONS MARTIAL DANCES SOLO DANCES
THE ANIMAL TO BE SACRIFICED AND THE LAY-FIGURE CHASING THE
ANIMAL FROM THE VILLAGE TEARING OUT ITS HEART THE YAK DRIVEN
OVER A PRECIPICE H1.A1' SHAVING A SACRED CAVE 112
CHAPTER XVIII
TOUCHING SHOKA FAREWELL FEELINGS CURIOUSLY EXPRESSED SOBS AND
TEARS THE START A FUNERAL PROCESSION DISTRESSED FATHER AND
MOTHER KACHI AND DOLA THE WORSE FOR DRINK ANXIOUS MOMENTS
THE BRIDGE DESTROYER 124
CHAPTER XIX
A DANGEROUS TRACK PERILOUS PASSAGE A CURIOUS BRIDGE OVER A PRECI-
PICE PATHETIC SHOKA CUSTOM SMALL MISADVENTURES A GRAND RE-
CEPTION TEA FOR ALL TASTES 130
CHAPTER XX
DR. WILSON JOINS MY EXPEDITION FOR A FEW MARCHES WHAT MISDEEDS
A PHOTOGRAPHIC CAMERA CAN DO WEIGHING, DIVIDING, AND PACKING
PROVISIONS TWO EXTRA MEN WANTED THE LAST FRIENDLY FACES . . 134
CHAPTER XXI
THE KUTI CASTLE UNDER WAY OUR FIRST DISASTER A CHEERFUL AND A
SULKY COOLIE MANSING A BRIGAND A STRANGE MEDLEY OF FOLLOW-
ERS A CHARACTER TAILORING FIELDS OF STONES TROUBLESOME
RIVERS THE JOLINKAN OR LEBUNG PASS SENSE OF HUMOR PLEASED
WITH SMALL COMFORTS 138
CHAPTER XXII
WANT OF FUEL COOKING UNDER DIFFICULTY MANSING LOST AND FOUND
SAVED FROM SUMMARY JUSTICE TIBETAN VISITORS WE PURCHASE
SHEEP THE SNOW-LINE COLD STREAMS THE PETRIFIED CHAPATI AND
HUMAN HAND 148
CHAPTER XXIII
THE SCOUTS RETURN A SMALL EXPLORING PARTY THE MANGSHAN GLACIER . 154
CHAPTER XXIV.
SNOW AND TROUBLESOME DEBRIS THE DOCTOR'S SUFFERINGS KACHI DIS-
ABLEDFURTHER TRIALS A WEIRD APPARITION DELIRIUM ALL SAFE
THE DESCENT 158
ix
CONTENTS
CHAPTER XXV PAGE
THE SOURCES OF THE KUTI RIVER THE LUMl'IY A GLACIER THE SUMMIT Of
THE RANGE BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF TIBET RUBSO FROZEN ALMOST TO
l>l \TH THE LUMPIYA PASS TWO COOLIES IN DISTRESS l66
CHAPTER XXVI
MYSTERIOUS FOOTPRINTS BRIGAND OR SPY ? PASSES AND TRACKS INTENSE
COLD NO FUEL A HIGH, FLAT PLATEAU FUEL AT LAST ! TWO SPIES
IN DISGUISE WHAT THEY TOOK US FOR 1 7 1
CHAPTER XXVII
LAMA CHOKDEN A TIBETAN GUARD THE SACRED KELAS REVERENCE OF MY
MEN FOR THE SACRED MOUNTAIN TRYING HARD TO KEEP FRIENDS WITH
THE GODS OSOS WATER FLOWING TO US I7f>
CHAPTER XXVIII
AN EXTENSIVE VALLEY KIANG, OR WILD HORSE THEIR STRANGE WAYS
THE GYANEMA FORT APPREHENSION AT OUR APPEARANCE A PARLEY
"CUT OUR HEADS!" REVOLT AND MURDER CONTEMPLATED HYPOCRIT-
ICAL WAYS OF TIBETAN OFFICIALS HELP SUMMONED FROM EVERYWHERE
PREPARING FOR WAR !?<>
CHAPTER XXIX
ARRIVAL OF A HIGH OFFICIAL THE BARCA TARJUM A TEDIOUS PALAVER
THE TARJUM'S ANXIETY PERMISSION TO PROCEED A TRAITOR EN-
TREATED TO RETRACE OUR STEPS THIRTY ARMED HORSEMEN A PRETTY
SPEECH l86>
CHAPTER XXX
SPYING OUR MOVEMENTS DISGUISED SEPOYS A GLOOMY OUTLOOK TROUBLE-
SOME FOLLOWERS ANOTHER MARCH BACK AN AMUSING INCIDENT . . 193.
CHAPTER XXXI
AN ATTEMPT THAT FAILED A RESOLUTION A SMART SHOKA LAD THE
PLUCKY CHANDEN SING PROPOSES TO ACCOMPANY ME MANSING THE
LEPER BECOMES MY SERVANT'S SERVANT IQ&
CHAPTER XXXII
" DEVIL'S CAMP " A FIERCE SNOW - STORM ABANDONING OUR TENTS
DANGERS AND PERILS IN PROSPECT COLLECTING THE MEN ONE LOAD
TOO MANY ! ANOTHER MAN WANTED AND FOUND A PROPITIOUS NIGHT
GOOD-BYE TO WILSON THE ESCAPE BRIGANDS 2OJ
CHAPTER XXXIII
SOUTHEAST WIND HUNGRY AND HALF FROZEN LAKES AT 18,960 FEET
ABOVE SEA-LEVEL COLD FOOD AT HIGH ALTITUDES BURIED IN SNOW
MANSING'S SUFFERINGS FUEL AT LAST 20$
x
CONTENTS
CHAPTER XXXIV PACK
DACOITS NO NONSENSE ALLOWED A MUCH-FREQUENTED REGION A PLATEAU
THE GYANE.MA- 1 AKLAKOT TRACK A DANGEROUS SPOT SOLDIERS
WAITING FOR US BURYING OUR BAGGAGE OUT OF PROVISIONS A FALL
INTO THE GAKKON RIVER A BRIGHT IDEA NETTLES OUR DIET . . . 213
CHAPTER XXXV
ALL THAT REMAINED OF MY MEN'S PROVISIONS THE PLAN TO ENTER THE
FORT APPEARANCE OF YAKS A BAND OF BRIGANDS ERECTING FORTI-
FICATIONSCHANGES IN THE TEMPERATURE SOLDIERS IN SEARCH OF US 22O
CHAPTER XXXVI
"TERROR CAM I 1 " TWO MORE MESSENGERS lEAVE CAMP A TRIBE OF DOGPAS
A STRANGE SAHIB OUR MESSENGERS RETURN FROM TAKLAKOT THE
ACCOUNT AND ADVENTURES OF THEIR MISSION IN GREAT DISTRESS
TWO FAKIRS WHO SUFFERED THROUGH ME FIVE HUNDRED RUPEES
OFFERED FOR MY HEAD THE SHOKAS WANT TO ABANDON ME A PLOT
HOW IT FAILED , 224,
CHAPTER XXXVII
A TIBETAN GUARD'S KNC AMPMENT NATTOO VOLUNTEERS TO BE A GUIDE
TREACHERY AND PUNISHMENT OF THE SHOKAS ALL WAYS FORWARD
BARRED TO ME EVADING THE SOLDIERS BY ANOTHER PERILOUS MARCH
AT NIGHT MANSING AGAIN LOST A MARVELLOUS PHENOMENON SUF-
FERINGS OF MY MEN SEVERE COLD 23!
CHAPTER XXXVIII
NIGHT MARCHING THE LAFAN AM) MAFAN LAKES TJZE, THE SACRED KELAS
RHUBARB BUTTERFLIES A HERMIT LAMA MORE DACOITS SUR-
ROUNDED BY THEM ROUTED 236
CHAPTER XXXIX
SPIED AND FOLLOWED BY ROBBERS JOGPAS* HOSPITALITY HARES TIBETAN
CHARMS RESISTED ATTEMPT TO SNATCH CHANDEN SING'S RIFLE OUT OF
HIS HANDS THE RIDGE BETWEEN RAKASTAL AND MA.NSAROWAR LAKES . 243
CHAPTER XL
MORE ROBBERS THE FRIENDS OF TIBETAN AUTHORITIES A SNAP-SHOT A
MEEK LOT PREPOSSESSING FEMALE AND HER CURIOUS WAYS THE PUR-
CHASE OF TWO YAKS 247
CHAPTER XLI
TIBETAN COATS, HATS, AND BOOTS WHY A TIBETAN PREFERS TO LEAVE
HALF THE CHEST AND ONE ARM BARE ORNAMENTATIONS MANNER AND
SPEECH IGNORANCE AND SUPERSTITION WAY OF EATING JOGPA
WOMEN AND CHILDREN HEAD-DRESS 252
xi
CONTENTS
CHAPTER XLII PAGE
A DAKU'S STRANGE IDEAS THE RIDGE BETWEEN THE TWO LAKES BLACK
I KNTS CONFRONTING THE TWO LAKES A CHAIN OF HIGH PEAKS
CHANGE IN THE WEATHER 259
CHAPTER XLIII
THE LANGA TSANGPO A TERRIFIC STORM DRENCHED TO THE SKIN HEAVY
MARCHING AGAINST THE GODS DIFFICULTY IN FINDING THE LAMASERY
\M> VILLAGE A BARK! ARRIVAL AT LAST GENTLE TAPPING UNDER
A ROOF 264
CHAPTER XLIV
THE INTERIOR OF A SERAI VERMIN FISH, LOCAL JEWELRY, AND POTTERY
FOR SALE FAVORITE SHAPES AND PATTERNS HOW POTTERY IS MADE . 268
CHAPTER XLV
FRIENDLY LAMAS CHANDEN SING AND MANSING PURIFIED MANSING'S SAR-
CASM PILGRIMS TO MANSAROWAR AND THEIR PRIVILEGES FOR LUCK !
OUTSIDE THE GOMBA 2?2
CHAPTER XLVI
ENTERING THE LAMASERY THE LAMA'S DWELLING NOVICES WERE WE IN
A TRAP ? IMAGES OBLATIONS URCHIN THE HOLY WATER, THE VEIL
OF FRIENDSHIP, AND ABSOLUTION MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS, BOOKS, ETC.
GOD AND THE TRINITY HEAVEN AND HELL A MYSTERY 275
CHAPTER XLVII
THE JONG PEN'S STATEMENTS REGARDING ME SECTS OF LAMAS LAMASERIES
GOVERNMENT ALLOWANCE IGNORANCE OF THE CROWDS HOW LAMAS
ARE RECRUITED LAMAS, NOVICES, AND MENIALS DANCES AND HYPNO-
TISM INFALLIBILITY CELIBACY AND VICE SCULPTORS PRAYER-WHEELS
AND REVOLVING INSTRUMENTS NUNNERIES HUMAN BONES FOR EATING-
VESSELS AND MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS BLOOD-DRINKING 28l
CHAPTER XLVIII
ILLNESSES AND REMEDIES CURIOUS THEORIES ABOUT FEVER EVIL SPIRITS-
BLACKSMITH AND DENTIST EXORCISMS SURGICAL OPERATIONS MASSAGE
AND CUPPING INCURABLE ILLNESSES DEFORMITIES DEAFNESS FITS
AND INSANITY MELANCHOLIA SUICIDES 2QO
CHAPTER XLIX
A TIBETAN MEDICINE - MAN LUMBAGO, AND A STARTLING CURE FOR IT
COMBUSTIBLE FUSEES FIRE AND BUTTER PRAYERS, AGONY, AND DIS-
TORTIONS STRANGE IDEAS ON MEDICINE 3OO
CHAPTER L
TUCKER VILLAGE CHOKDENS HOUSES FLYING PRAYERS SOLDIERS OR ROB-
BERS ? A STAMPEDE FRESH PROVISIONS DISAPPOINTMENT TREACHERY
SHOKAS LEAVE ME OBSERVATIONS FIVE MEN, ALL COUNTED . . . 304
xii
ILLUSTRATIONS
A. Henry Savage Landor and his Two Faithful Ser- /
_ . , > . Frontispiece
vants. Photogravure \
A Chinese Passport : I
My Start from Naini Tal Facing 6
Lepers " 8
My Faithful Companion 10
Castle at Pithoragarh 13
RaOtS Facing 14
My Abode at Askote 15
A Young Man 18
Raot on Tree 19
Head of Young Man 21
Two Men Sitting Down with Children 23
A Young Man 24
Raot Women of the Forest 27
The Rajiwar of Askote, his Brother and Son 29
Fakir Returning from Mansarowar 30
The Rajiwar and his Brother in Dandies 35
Darma Shokas and Tibetans 40
Shoka Weavers 48
Shrine and Flying Prayers 51
House of a Wealthy Shoka Facing 52
Wrinkled Shoka 54
Lai Sing Tokudar and his Brother 55
The Tent 61
Nerpani Road 63
The Nerpani Road 66
The Nerpani Road 67
The Chai-Lek Pass 68
Narrow Gorge Between Two Mountains 69
The Gates of Garbyang 72
Garbyang Facing 72
Matan Sing Chaprassi Narenghiri Chaprassi 75
xiii
The House Where I Stayed at Garbyang 78
Shoka House with Strange Ladder 79
Shoka Houses. 81
Shoka Child Being Smeared with Butter 85
The Master of a High-school, Altitude 10,940 Feet 86
Gungi Shankom 87
Zazzela Mount, near Gungi 89
Chiram 9
Involuntary Tobogganing Facing 90
Shoka Child Smeared with Butter, and Left to Absorb Butter in
the Sun 9 1
Kuti 93
Snow Bridges Over the Kuti River Facing 94.
Old Shoka Woman Smoking 95
Chanden Sing and the Daku Rolling Up my Bedding ..... 96
A Well-attended School ' . 98-
My Banker and Agent 101
The Valley of Garbyang 103
Motema, a Shoka Beauty , , 105
On the Way to the Rambang 106
Shoka Ear-rings 107
Silver Ear-rings of Tibetan Origin, with Coral Beads ...... 108
Shoka Woman Weaving 109
Rambang Girls with Ornaments 1 1 1
Weeping Women Under White Cloth 113
Shoka Funeral Pile 114
Dance in Front of Deceased Man's House Facing 116
Women Dusting and Caressing the Lay-figure 116
Women Dancing Round the Lay-figure : .... 117
Martial Dance Round Lay-figure Facing 1 1 8
The Goat, with Soul of Deceased, Being Fed 119
Goat, with Soul and Clothes of Deceased 120
Yak Driven Over Precipice Facing 120
Sending the Goat Away from the Village 121
Tearing Out the Heart of the Goat 122
Kachi and his Relations 124
The Patan Summoning my Coolies from the Roof of his House . .125
The Chongur Bridge Previous to Being Destroyed 128
A Perilous Passage Facing 130
The Photograph that Caused the Child's Death 135
Plan of Kuti Castle 138
Mansing, the Leper, Showing his Hands 140
The Kuti Castle Facing 142
xiv
ILLUSTRATIONS
PACE
The Jolinkan or Lebung Pass U4
Camping in Snow Facing 148
The Snow-line at 16,000 Feet 151
The Mangshan Glacier Facing \ 54
" I Roused the Rongba " 163
Ascending the Lumpiya Pass Facing 166
The Lumpiya Glacier and Pass " 168
Spied " 172
My Men Salaaming Kelas at Lama Chokden " 176
The Arrival of Reinforcements " 186
The Barca Tarjum and his Officers " 190
"At Night I Led my Men Up the Mountain in a Fierce
Snow-storm " " 204
Buried in Snow " 210
Dacoits with a Booty of Sheep " 214
Sheep Carrying Load 214
Behind Our Bulwarks Facing 222
Our First View of Rakastal 237
Rakastal and Mansarowar Lakes 238-239
A Dacoit 244
The Bandits Laid Down Their Arms Facing 248
Pack-saddles for Yaks 250
White Woollen Coat and Sashes )
Woollen Socks i 253
Man's Boot, Made at Sigatz
Snow-boot
Woman's Boot
Boot Made in Lhassa J
Hat Worn by Officials 256
A Black Yak 260
My Two Yaks Facing 260
Silver Lhassa Coins )
Copper Coins v 269
Ear-ring Worn by Men )
Silver Charm )
Gold-and-Malachite Brooch \ .
Mansarowar Pottery 271
Entrance to the Tucker Temple 276
Stone with Inscription 286
Stone with Inscription 287
Prayer-wheels, Ancient and Modern. Showing Rolls of Prayers to
Go Inside 288
Branch with Thorns to Prevent Return of Evil Spirits 294
xv
ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
A Medicine-man 301
Tucker Village and Gomba Facing 304
The Panku Gomba 306
COLORED PLATES
View of the Himahlyas. Showing Nanda Devi and Trisul
Peaks Facing 42
Nerpani Track " 66
The Spectre and Circular Rainbow " 162
A Tibetan Fortune-teller 270
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
rt
*
4
+ m
S ' *.' <* 4* ft
^ *f /h ^ 3^
* * i i
# * #
f f t
i4 *
A CHINESE PASSPORT
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
CHAPTER I
FROM LONDON TO NAINI TAL
ON leaving London, I intended to proceed via Ger-
many to Russia, traverse Russian Turkestan, Bokhara,
and Chinese Turkestan, and from there enter Tibet.
The Russian Government had readily granted me a spe-
cial permission to take free of duty through their terri-
tory my fire-arms, ammunition, provisions, photographic
cameras, surveying and other scientific instruments, and,
i. A i
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
moreover, informed me, through His Excellency Sir Nich-
olas O'Conor, then our Ambassador in St. Petersburg, that
I should be privileged to travel on the military railway
through Turkestan as far as the terminus at Samarakand.
O
I feel under a great obligation to the Russian Embassy
in London for the extreme courtesy shown me, and I
desire to acknowledge this at the outset, especially be-
cause that route might very likely have saved me much
of the suffering and disappointment I was subjected to
through going by way of India.
I was provided with introductions and credentials from
the Marquis of Salisbury, the British Museum of Natural
History, etc. ; I was carrying scientific instruments for
the Royal Geographical Society, and I had a British and
two Chinese passports.
Having forwarded all my explosives by an ammuni-
tion vessel to Russia (the German railways absolutely
refusing to carry cartridges), I heard, to my dismay, only
a few days previous to leaving London, that the steamer
had stranded just before reaching her port of destination,
and that grave doubts were entertained as to the possi-
bility of saving even a portion of her cargo. This was
at the time of the outbreak of the Turco-Greek war, and
the Russians were reported to be mobilizing their troops
along the Afghan frontier. I did not wish to delay my
journey, and although my preparations were complete for
going through Russia, I nevertheless decided to abandon
that plan and go to India, with a view to penetrating over
the Himahlya into Tibet. I sailed for India on March
1 9th, on the P. & O. steamship Peninsular, and reached
Bombay three weeks later.
It was my first visit to India, and my first impression
was certainly not a good one. The heat was intense, and
signs of the plague were discernible everywhere. The
THE PLAGUE
streets were deserted, and the hotels bad and dirty for
want of servants, who had abandoned the town in fear
of the scourge.
Accompanied by a Parsee friend, I went to several of
the districts of Bombay chiefly affected by the disease,
but I noticed, wherever I went, little else than a strong
odor of disinfectants. It is true, there were few houses
in those parts which had not ten, twenty, and even more
circular red marks, denoting as many deaths, and on one
door, which I photographed, I counted no less than forty-
nine circles. But I was unable to gauge personally with
any sort of accuracy the nature or extent of the disease,
beyond seeing in the hospitals a few violent cases of bu-
bonic attacks.
On the day following my arrival in Bombay I pro-
ceeded by rail to Bareilly, which was reached in three
days, and from there one more night brought me to
Kathgodam, the terminus of the railway line. Travel-
ling partly by tonga (a two-wheeled vehicle drawn by two
horses) and partly on horseback, I found myself at last at
Naini Tal, a hill station in the lower Himahlyas, and the
summer seat of the Government of the Northwest Prov-
inces and Oudh, from whence I wrote to the Lieutenant-
Governor, informing him of my intention to proceed to
Tibet. I also called on the Deputy Commissioner and
made him fully acquainted with my plans. Neither one
nor the other of these gentlemen raised the slightest ob-
jection to my intended journey into the sacred Land of
the Lamas.
CHAPTER II
LOADS A SET OF USEFUL PACK-SADDLE CASES PROVISION'S AND SCIEN-
TIFIC OUTFIT CLOTHES AND SHOES MEDICINES UNDER WAY THE
FIRST MARCH SERVANTS HOW I CAME TO EMPLOY FAITHFUL
CHANDEN SING
I KNEW that from Naini Tal, 6407 feet (sixty feet above
lake level), all my loads would have to be transported on
the backs of coolies, and therefore they had to be divided
into equal weights not exceeding twenty-five seers, or fifty
pounds. I packed instruments, negatives, and articles lia-
ble to get damaged in cases of my own make, designed
especially for rough usage. A set of four such cases, of
well-seasoned deal wood, carefully joined and fitted, zinc-
lined, and soaked in a special preparation of mine by which
they were rendered water and air tight, could be made use-
ful in many ways. Taken separately they could be used
as seats ; four placed in a row answered the purpose of
bedstead ; three could be used as seat and table ; and the
combination of four, used in a certain manner, made a
punt or boat of quick, solid, and easy construction, by
which an unfordable river could be crossed or soundings
taken in the still waters of a lake. The cases could also
be used as baths for myself and my followers (if I could
induce these to so far indulge), and also, in the develop-
ing of my negatives, as tanks to properly wash my plates.
I conjectured even that in case of emergency they might
serve as water-casks in arid regions, if I should have to
traverse any. One of these boxes packed was exactly a
coolie load, and two could be easily slung over a pack-
4
A SET OF USEFUL CASES
saddle by means of straps and rings. It was due mainly
to the stoutness and strength of these cases that, notwith-
standing the amount of knocking about they got, my pho-
tographic and painting work, as well as my maps, instru-
ments, etc., were really in no way injured until we fell into
the hands of the Tibetans. Fortunately, the most im-
portant part of my work, from a scientific point of view,
had already been accomplished. My provisions were
prepared for me by the Bovril Company, after instruc-
tions furnished by me, with a view to the severe Tibetan
climate and the altitudes we should find ourselves in.
They contained a vast amount of fat and carbonaceous
food, as well as ingredients easily digestible and calcu-
lated to maintain one's strength even in moments of un-
usual stress. I had them packed in tin cases and skin
bags. I carried in a water-tight box 1000 cartridges for
my .256 Mannlicher rifle, besides 500 cartridges for my
revolver, and a number of hunting-knives, skinning imple-
ments, wire traps of several sizes for capturing small
mammals, butterfly nets, bottles for preserving reptiles in
alcohol, insect- killing bottles (cyanide of potassium), a
quantity of arsenical soap, bone nippers, scalpels, and all
other accessories necessary for the collection of natural-
history specimens. There were three sets of photographic
apparatus in my outfit, and one hundred and fifty-eight
dozen dry plates, as well as all adjuncts for the devel-
oping, fixing, etc., of the negatives as they were taken.
The collecting materials were given me by the British
Museum of Natural History, to which institution I had
promised to present all specimens of fauna and flora
I might collect during my journey. I had two sets of
instruments for astronomical observation and for use
in surveying (one of which had been furnished me by
the Royal Geographical Society), such as the six -inch
5
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
sextant, hypsometrical apparatus for measuring heights,
with boiling-point thermometers specially constructed for
very great altitudes; two aneroids, one to 20,000 feet, the
other to 25,000 feet ; three artificial horizons (one mercury,
the others plate-glass with levels); a powerful telescope
with astronomical eye-piece and stand ; a prismatic, a
luminous, a floating, and two pocket compasses; maximum
and minimum thermometers; a case of drawing-instru-
ments, protractors, parallel rules, tape rules, a silver water-
tight half -chronometer watch and three other watches,
O
section paper in books and in large sheets, Rapers and
the Nautical Almanac for 1897 and 1898.
Not to neglect the artistic aspect of my expedition, I
had provided myself with ample painting and drawing
materials, and I trust to the appearance of my sketches in
these volumes to prove that I did not carry them in vain.
I was provided with a very light mountain tente d'abri,
seven feet long, four feet wide, and three feet high. Well
accustomed to the sort of travelling I was in for, I decided
that I required for myself only a camel-hair blanket in the
way of bedding. I reduced my clothing also to a min-
imum, and made no difference in it from start to finish.
The only thing I ever missed was my straw hat, which
I wore up in the Himahlyas just as I had worn it on
the broiling plains, because it seemed to me always the
most comfortable headgear. It was rendered unwearable
through the clumsiness of one of my Shokas, to whom
I had lent it to carry in it some swan eggs (presented
by a friendly Shoka), and who fell with it, or on it, to
the detriment and destruction both of vessel and load.
After that I generally went about with my head uncov-
ered, as I only had a small cap left, which was not com-
fortable. I wore medium thick shoes without nails, and
never carried a stick, and I think it was clue largely to
6
the simplicity of my personal equipment that I was able, as
will be seen presently, to climb to one of the greatest alti-
tudes ever reached by a human being.*
My provision of medicines cost me only half a crown,
firm as I am in the belief that man, living naturally under
natural conditions, and giving himself plenty of exercise,
can be helped very little by drugs.
And thus I started.
On the first day I rode from Naini Tal to Almora,
thirty miles by the lower and well - known road via
Khairna.
Almora (5510 feet) is the last hill station towards the
frontier where I expected to find a European, or rather
an Anglo - Indian, community, and I made it my head-
quarters for a few days. It was my intention to obtain
some reliable hill men, possibly Gourkhas, to accompany
me. I applied in vain for this purpose to the Lieutenant-
Colonel of the ist 3d Gourkha Regiment quartered in
the station, duly showing letters, introductions, and docu-
ments, from the highest authorities and institutions in
England, plainly demonstrating the scientific object of
my journey to Tibet.
The superior authorities seemed open to negotiations
had I been able to afford a wait of several months; but,
as this would have involved the postponement of my
journey for a year, on account of the passes leading into
Tibet becoming impassable at the end of the summer, I
decided to snap my fingers at all the red tape the job re-
quired, and to start on my journey without the Gourkhas.
As luck would have it, I came across a gentleman at
Almora, a Mr. J. Larkin, who showed me great polite-
ness and gave me much useful information with re-
* See Appendix. Letter by Dr. H. Wilson.
7
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
gard to the roads, the mode of travelling, etc., on the
British side of the Tibetan frontier. He had himself
travelled nearly up to the boundary the previous year,
and knew that part of Kumaon better than any Anglo-
Indian in the province. In fact, with the exception of
Colonel Grigg, Commissioner of Kumaon, Mr. Larkin
is the only other official who has any knowledge at all
of the northeast of Kumaon, now so neglected by the
Government of the Northwest Provinces.
Gourkhas being unobtainable, the question weighed
heavily on my mind of obtaining plucky, honest, wiry,
healthy servants, of whatever caste they might be, who
would be ready, for the sake of a good salary and a hand-
some reward, to brave the many discomforts, hardships,
and perils my expedition was likely to involve. Both at
Naini Tal and here scores of servants and Shikaris
(sporting attendants) offered themselves. They one and
all produced " certificates " of good conduct, irreproacha-
ble honesty, good - nature, and willingness to work, and
praises unbounded of all possible virtues that a servant
could possess. Each certificate was duly ornamented
with the signature of a General, a Captain, a Lieutenant-
Governor, or some other considerable personage, but
each bearer of such testimonial seemed sadly neglected
by those who had been so enthusiastically pleased with
his services, for he invariably commenced by asking for
a loan of several rupees to purchase boots and blankets,
and to enable him to support a wife with or without a
family whom he would be leaving behind.
I decided that my means did not permit of my sup-
porting " the dear ones at home " of the two or three
dozen followers I should require, and I made up my
mind to wait and see whether I could not find men to
suit me farther on my road without involving myself in
8
MY FAITHFUL COMPANION
the liability of supporting the entire population I left be-
hind me. I made only one exception. I was sitting
one fine day in my room at the Dak Bungalow (post
resting-house) when an odd creature entered and offered
his services, salaaming me.
" Where are your certificates ?" I asked.
" Sahib, hum 'certificates' ne hai" (Sir, I have no cer-
tificates.)
" Well, then I may employ you."
I had previously had a good look at the fellow. His
facial lines showed considerably more character and force
than I had noticed in the features of other local natives.
His attire was peculiar. He wore a white turban, and
from under a short velvet waistcoat there protruded a
gaudy flannel shirt in yellow and black stripes, which he
wore oddly outside of his pajamas instead of in them.
He had no shoes, and carried in his right hand an old
cricket stump, with which he " presented arms," as it
were, every time that I came in and went out of the
room. I at once decided to try him. It was about nine
o'clock in the morning when I, having many people to
see, handed Chanden Sing, for that was his name, a pair
of shoes and some blacking.
" Mind I find them clean when I return."
" Acha, Sahib T (All right, sir!)
" You will find some brushes in my room."
" Bahut acha, Sahib /" (Very good, sir !)
I left. At six P.M., when I returned to my quarters, I
found Chanden Sing still polishing my footgear with all
his might. He had been at it the whole day, and had
used for the purpose my best hair and clothes brushes.
"Oh, you budmdsh ! crab log ! pagaU" (Oh, you bad
character ! bad man ! fool ! ) I exclaimed, disgusted, mak-
ing as much display as possible of the only three or
9
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
four words I then knew of Hindustani. I snatched the
blackened articles of toilet out of his hands, while he, with
an air of wounded feelings, pointed out the wonderful re-
sults he had achieved.
It was clear that Chanden Sing was not much a valet,
neither was he a master at opening soda-water bottles.
He generally managed to
give you a spray-bath, if he
did not actually shoot the
flying cork in your face. It
was owing to one (by no
means the first) of these ac-
cidents that Chanden Sinor
O r
having hit me full, was a
few days later flung bodily
out of the front door. I
am very adverse to the hab-
it of punishing the natives
injudiciously and unjustly,
but I believe that firm if
not too severe a punishment
administered in time is ab-
solutely necessary with na-
tive servants, and generally
saves much trouble and un-
MY FAITHFUL COMPANION pleasantness in the end.
Anyhow, Chanden Sing,
none the worse, returned the next day to get his cricket
stump, which he had forgotten in his hurried and in-
voluntary departure. He seized this opportunity to offer
his humblest apologies for his clumsiness, and produced
the following letter, which he had got written in English
by a Babu in the Bazaar :
10
FAITHFUL CHANDEN SING
" DEAR SIR, I am a stupid man, but I hear you intend to take two-
Gourkha soldiers with you to Tibet. I am a good and very stout man, and
therefore far superior to any Gourkha. Please employ me.
" Your faithful servant,
"CHANDEN SlNG."
This was touching, and I forgave him and allowed
him to stay. He improved as time went on, and after a
while became quite tolerable. One morning Mr. Larkin
called when Chanden Sing happened to be about.
"Who is that?" said Larkin.
" That is my bearer."
" But he is not a bearer. He was once a policeman,
and a smart fellow, too. He worked out a good case in
his own village, and had many people arrested and con-
victed for theft. As a reward they sacked him."
" I am thinking of taking him with me."
" He is a good lad," replied Mr. Larkin. " You can,
anyhow, take him as far as the frontier, but I would not
advise you to take him into Tibet."
Mr. Larkin counselled Chanden Sing to be diligent
and attentive, and the ex-policeman beamed all over with
joy when I told him definitely that he might accompany
me to Bhot. He turned out to be the one plucky man
among all my followers, and he stood by me through
thick and thin.
CHAPTER III
PITHORAGARH FAKIR WOMEN A WELL-VENTILATED ABODE ASKOTE
THE RAJIWAR AND HIS PEOPLE
THE country up to Bhot is comparatively well known,
therefore I will not dwell at length on the first portion of
my journey.
On May gth all my baggage, accompanied by two
Chaprassis, left on its way to the frontier, and I followed
on the next day. Two days' marching, at the rate 'of
twenty-five miles a day, brought me to Shor, otherwise
called Pithoragarh.
The road is good all the way, running through thick
forests of pine and fir trees, and you get here and there
pretty views of wooded mountain ranges. Nevertheless,
it is tiring, owing to the many ascents and descents, as
will be seen from the following figures showing the
principal elevations. From 5510 feet we climbed to
7650 feet, descended to 2475 feet, climbed again up to
6020 feet at Gangoli Hat, and redescended by a steep in-
cline to 2500 feet. The intense heat prevented me from
walking at my usual pace, and I did not, therefore, reach
my destination before sundown. Walking on in the
dark, we saw the distant flickering forest fires crawling
here and there like incandescent snakes along or up the
mountain-side ; these are caused by the igniting of the
grass, shrubs, and undergrowth by the natives, the flames
not unfrequently spreading and playing havoc among the
finest trees of the forest.
12
CASTLE AT PITHORAGARH
At Pithoragarh (6650 feet) there is the old Loudon
Gourkha fort to be seen, on a hill - top, also a well-kept
leper hospital, a school, and a mission-house. The soil
is fertile, and there are many stretches of well-cultivated
land dotted with habitations. Water is plentiful, and
though the scenery certainly lacks trees except in the
immediate neighborhood of the villages and houses, it
has, nevertheless, a certain picturesqueness on account of
CASTLE AT PITHORAGARH
its background of wooded mountains. I started from
Pithoragarh at 6.30 A.M.; leaving the road to Tal on the
left, I followed the track at a medium elevation of 6250
feet, arriving at Shadgora (6350 feet) just in time to
witness the blessing of a calf by a Brahmin. Inside a
diminutive shrine into the door of which I was curi-
ous enough to peep I discovered two skinny, repulsive
old women, with sunken, discolored eyes, untidy locks of
scanty hair, long, unwashed, bony arms and legs, and fin-
ger and toe nails of abnormal length. They were clad in
a few dirty rags, and were busily attending to the lights
burning on several primitive stone candlesticks along the
walls of the shrine. There were also some curiously
shaped stones standing upright among the candlesticks.
The ceiling of this place of worship was not high enough
i. B 13
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
to allow the women to stand, and they were compelled to
crawl about inside on all fours. When they saw me they
stretched out their angular arms towards me, begging for
money. I gave them a silver coin, which they shoved
under one of the peculiar stones, and then, turning
round, immediately made violent gestures suggesting to
me that I was to depart.
Farther on I came upon a point where three roads
branched off to Deolthal (six miles) on the left, to Askote
(twelve and three - quarter miles) in the centre, and to
Pithoragarh (eleven and a quarter miles), a different
route from the one followed, on the right. I took the
middle one, and travelled on in a storm of hail and
wind with a constant deafening roar of thunder and
splendid flashes of lightning, which produced magical
effects on the ever -changing and fantastic clouds and
the weird mountain- sides along which I ploughed my
way.
I arrived late in the evening at Askote, where there
is neither Dak Bungalow nor Daramsalla,* and found to
my disgust that none of my carriers had yet arrived. I
was offered hospitality by Pundit Jibanand, who put me
up in his school-room, a structure consisting of a number
of planks put together regardless of width, height, length,
or shape, and supporting a roof of straw and grass. The
ventilation of my abode was all one could wish for, and
as during the night I lay wrapped up in my blanket
under the sheltering roof I could admire through the
disconnected portions of the walls the brilliancy of the
star-studded heaven above. When the sun arose, bits of
scenery appeared between plank and plank, until by de-
* Daramsalla, a stone-walled shelter for the use of travellers and
natives.
14
ASKOTE
grees the gaps were all stopped up by figures of natives,
who took possession of these points of vantage to gaze to
their hearts' content on the sahib, who, with signs of
evident suspense on the part of these spectators, managed
even to shave. Hilarity, on the other hand, was caused
when I smeared myself all over with soap while bathing-
Admiration followed __^
at my putting on my
last starched shirt
and other mysterious
garments, but the ex-
citement grew al-
O
most to fever-heat
when I went through
the daily nuisance of
winding up m y
watches and res;is-
O
tering daily observa-
tions of temperature,
etc. The strain was too much, I fancy, and a general
stampede followed the moment I touched my unloaded
rifle.
The town of Askote is not unlike an old feudal castle
such as are found in many parts of Central Italy. Perched
on the crown of a central hill, the Rajiwar's palace over-
looks a fine panorama of mountains encircling it on all
sides. Among the higher peaks discernible from the
palace are the Chipla Mountain and the Dafia. Then
across the Kali River, forming the boundary of Nepal, is
Mount Dooti. The "gown? or town, itself numbers some
two hundred houses scattered on the slope of the hill, and
includes a school, a post-office, and two Mahommedan
shops. The Raj i war had on my arrival just completed
building a new Court, a simple and dignified structure of
15
MY ABODE AT ASKOTE
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
brown stone, with fine wooden carvings on the windows
and doors, and with chimneys in European fashion in
each room. One wall in each room was left open, and
formed a charming veranda, commanding a magnificent
view of mountain scenery.
The Rajiwar of Askote occupies a unique position in
Kumaon. Having repurchased his right to the tenure of
land in the Askote Pargana as late as 1855, he now pos-
sesses the right of zamindar (translated literally, landed
proprietor], and he is the only person to whom it has been
granted to retain this privilege in the Kumaon Division.
Jagat Sing Pal, the Rajiwar's nephew, assured me that
the people of the Askote Pargana are brave and good-
natured. They never give any trouble to the Rajiwar,
who, on the other hand, is almost a father to them. They
apply to him in every difficulty, in sickness and distress,
and he looks after them in true patriarchal fashion. The
Rajiwar is not rich, probably because he spends so much
for the benefit of his people and of the strangers who
pass through Askote. Many of these are little more than
beggars, of course, even when they travel as fakirs, or
other religious fanatics, going to or returning from the
sacred Mansarowar Lake in Tibet. The present Rajiwar,*
Pushkar Pal, belongs to the Ramchanda family, and he is
a descendant of the Solar dynasty. His ancestors lived
in Aoudh, or Ayodye (as it was formerly called), whence
they migrated to the hills of Katyur in Kumaon, where
they built a palace. The hill regions up to Killakanjia
and the Jumna River were under the Raja of Katyur's
rule, he assuming the title of Maharaja. A branch of the
family came from Katyur to Askote, its chief retaining
the hereditary title of Rajiwar besides that of Pal, which
* Rajiwar (head of kingdom).
16
THE RAJIWAR AND HIS PEOPLE
each male assumes. The Rajiwar pays a yearly tribute
of 1800 rupees to the Government of India. In the time
of the Gourkhas he paid nothing except occasional gifts
of Nafas, or musk-deer, to his neighbor the King of
Nepal, with whom he is still in very close relation. He
was then practically an independent king. Still, Rajiwar
Pushkar Pal has always been perfectly loyal to the Gov-
ernment of India.
"Are the people very obsequious to the Rajiwar?" I
asked of Jagat Sing Pal.
" Yes, sir. For instance, when the Rajiwar sits on his
Karoka (a kind of throne) he is saluted with a particularly
respectful salaam. His subjects bring their hand up to
the forehead and support the elbow with the left hand, as
a sign that this salutation is so weighty that it requires
the support of the other hand."
At Court functions the male relatives, friends, and ser-
vants sit near the Rajiwar, his brother first, his son next,
then his nephews, etc. Women are of course not admitted,
and although no strict code of etiquette exists, the Raji-
war and his family are nevertheless always treated with
Eastern deference.
17
CHAPTER IV
THE RAOTS A SLIPPERY JOURNEY SUPERSTITIOUS NOTIONS ANGER
AND JEALOUSY FRIENDS TO THE HOMES OF THE SAVAGES PHO-
TOGRAPHY HABITATIONS.
WE had walked seventy-eight miles in three marches,
and my men being footsore, I gave them a day's rest,
which I employed in going to the haunts of
the "Wild men of the forest," or Raots or
Rajis, as they style themselves. They live
in the woods several miles off, and to reach
them I had to descend a steep incline covered
by an uncommonly slippery carpet of dried
grass and pine-needles. I had to take off
shoes and stockings to get along, and even
barefooted I found it difficult to maintain
my hold. I was accompanied by one of my
chaprassis and a man from Askote, and we
were forced down more swiftly than comfort-
ably till we reached a faint track, which we
followed until we came upon a man hiding
behind some trees. He was a wild-looking
creature, naked and unkempt, with flowing
hair and scanty beard and mustache, and, regarding us
with an air of suspicion, he was most reluctant to show
us the way to the homes of his tribe. He was a Raot,
and his reluctance to let us approach his home seemed
justified enough when he said to my guide, " No white
man has ever visited our home, and should one ever come
we shall all die. The spirits of the mountains will pre-
18
A YOUNG MAN
A STIFF CLIMB
vent your progress not we. You will suffer pain, for
the spirit who watches over the Raots will let no one
enter their homes."
I gave the man a rupee, which he turned and weighed
in his hand.
" You can come," he
muttered, " but you will
regret it. You will have
great misfortunes."
There was something so
weirdly peculiar in the tone
of voice in which the man
spoke, as if he had been in
a trance, himself only the
channel through which the
threat of some occult beinsr
O
was conveyed to us, that for
some minutes I could not
get his words out of my
head. I followed him as
best I could, for he climbed
up huge bowlders with the
agility of a monkey. It was
no easy job, for we bounded and leaped from rock to rock
and vaulted over fallen trees. The track became more
marked and went up along the incline of a steep ravine.
We continued until, hot and panting, we arrived at a
large hollow high up in the cliff of clay. There, on a
semicircular platform, with intrenchments of felled trees,
were about a dozen men almost devoid of clothing, some
sitting on their heels and resting their arms on their
knees, others lying down flat. One fellow smoked dry
leaves inside a pipe of Hindoo origin. I snatched a
photo of the group as, with an air of suspicion mingled
RAOT ON TREE
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
with surprise and sadness, but no apparent fear, they
stared at the unexpected visitors. Two of the elder
men, having overcome their first stupor, sprang to their
feet, and with mad gesticulations refused to let me
come nearer. But I penetrated right into their circle,
and found myself surrounded by a sulky and angry
crowd.
" No man has ever been' here but a Raot. You will
soon die. You have offended God !" screamed an old
man in a sudden outburst of temper. He bent his knees
and curved his spine, protruding his head towards me.
He shook his fists in my face, waved them about in the
air, opened and tightly clinched them, digging his nails
furiously into his palms. Instead of contracting the scalp
of his forehead, the old Raot raised his eyebrows and
turned his polished forehead into a succession of deep
wrinkles, stretching in a straight line across almost from
ear to ear, and showing only a dark dimple over his nose.
His nostrils, flat and broad to begin with, became widely
expanded and raised so as to cause two deep lines to di-
verge from the nose along his cheeks. His mouth was
open, and a peculiar vacillation of the lower lip demon-
strated plainly that its owner had but little command over
speech and articulation. His eyes, which may have been
brown originally, were discolored, probably through the
abuse of excessive animal powers, to the possession of
which the formation of his skull strongly testified ; but
they assumed extraordinary brilliancy as his fury in-
creased. He opened them wide, apparently with an effort,
and showed the entire circle of his iris. The pupils were
dilated, notwithstanding that the light upon his face was
strong at the time.
Following his example, some of the rest displayed their
discontent in a similar fashion, but others, among whom I
20
STUDYING JEALOUS RAOTS
especially noticed two youths with sad, languishing faces,
drooping large eyes, and luxuriant growth of black hair,
stood apathetically apart, with head reclining towards
the right shoulder, their features perfectly composed, and
supporting their chins on their hands. Even if they had
overcome their stupor,
they certainly did not
betray it, and appeared
perfectly emotionless
as far as their counte-
nances were concerned.
One fellow with an
extraordinary head, a
mixture it seemed of a
Mongolian and a Ne-
groid type, was the first
to calm himself of those
who were so madly ex-
cited. With piercing
though unsteady eyes,
and with nervous,
twitching movements,
he scrutinized my face more closely than the others, and
seemed to reassure them all that I had not come to hurt
them. He made signs to the rest to desist from their
threats, and then, squatting down himself, invited me to
follow his example by sitting on my heels. When the
storm had subsided and they had all sat down, I drew out
of my pocket some coins and gave one to each of them,
with the exception of one man, on whom I thought I
might study the passion of jealousy in its most primitive
form. I watched the man closely, and soon saw him draw
apart from the others and become sulky. The others
were by now comparatively calm. They seemed predis-
21
HEAD OF YOUNG MAN
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
posed towards sadness, and I could with difficulty extract
from any of them more than a very faint sort of smile.
They turned and twisted the coins in their hands, and
compared them among one another, jabbering and ap-
parently content. The jealous man kept his head turned
away from them determinedly, pretending not to see what
was going on, and, resting his chin on his hand, he be-
gan to sing a weird, melancholy, guttural song, assum-
ing an air of contempt, especially when the others chaffed
him. Having allowed him to suffer enough, I gave him
two coins instead of one, and with them the satisfaction
of the last grin.
I then tried to photograph them, but my camera was
looked upon with suspicion, and as plate after plate was
exposed in portraying single individuals or groups, they
shuddered at each "click " of the spring.
" The gods will be angry with you for doing that? said
a Raot, pointing at the camera, " unless you give us a
large white coin."
I took advantage of this, and promised them as best I
could through my guide " two large coins " if they would
take me to their huts, some few hundred yards below the
lofty eyrie in the cliff, but I must for the sum be allowed
not only to see but to touch and have explained to me
anything I liked.
They consented, and we began our descent of the pre-
cipitous track leading to their habitations, a track fit
really only for monkeys. Several women and children
who had come up, attracted by the sight of strangers,
joined with the men in giving us a helping hand, and, in
fact, I believe there cannot have been a single paw in the
company that did not at one time or other during the
descent clutch some portion of my clothing in the friend-
liest spirit. Holding on to one another, we proceeded in
22
THE HOMES OF THE RAOTS
a body, not always at a pleasant pace, down the dangerous
cliff. Two or three times one of the natives or myself
tripped and almost dragged the remainder of the party
over the precipice, while the piercing yells and screams
TWO MEN SITTING DOWN WITH CHILDREN
of the women seemed to echo back for miles around. I
was not sorry when we at last reached the small huts by
the river which made up their village.
The habitations were squalid beyond measure. Con-
structed with a rough frame of tree-branches, fortified by
wooden posts and rafters, roofed over with a thatch of
dried grass, the majority of them measured about ten feet.
They were built against the hill -side, a strong biforked
pole in the centre of the structure supporting the roof,
and were usually divided into two sections, so as to give
23
IX THE FORBIDDEN LAND
shelter, each of them, to two families. They contained
no furniture, and but few utensils of the most primitive
make. There were circular wooden bowls scooped out
in the past by means of sharp-edged stones, and more
recently by cheap blades, which were of Indian manu-
facture. For such cultivation as they
were capable of these people used prim-
itive earth rakes, and they also possessed
coarse mallets, sticks, and net bags in
which they kept their stores. Their sta-
ple food in former days was river fish,
flesh of wild animals, and roots of certain
trees ; but they now eat grain also, and,
like all savages, they have a craving for
liquor. The interior of Raot habitations
was so primitive and lacking of furniture
that it hardly requires to be described,
and the odors that emanated from these
huts are also better left to the imagina-
tion of the reader.
Entering one of the dwellings, I found
squatted round a fire of \vood some
women and men, the women wearing silver bangles and
glass-bead necklaces, the men very little more than string
ear-rinsfs. Onlv one of the men had on as much as a di-
O j
minutive loin-cloth, and the women had scanty dresses
of Indian manufacture, obtained in Askote.
Scanning their features carefully, it struck me that in
their facial lines many points could be traced which would
make one feel inclined to attribute to them a remote Mon-
golian origin, modified largely by the climate, the nature
of the country, and probably by intermarriage. In the
scale of standard human races the Raots stood extremely
low, as can be judged from the accompanying photographs.
24
A YOUNG MAN
RAOT FEATURES
The women, as will be seen, had abnormally small skulls-
with low foreheads, and, although they looked devoid even
of a glint of reason, they were actually fairly intelligent.
They had high cheek-bones and long, flattish noses, broad
and rounded as in the Mongolian type. The chin was in
most instances round, very receding, though the lips
were in their normal position, thin, and very tightly
closed with up-turned corners to the mouth. The low-
er jaw was extremely short and narrow, whereas the
upper one seemed quite out of proportion to the size
of the skull. Their ears were large, outstanding, and
unmodelled, capable of catching sounds at great dis-
tances.
The men had better heads than the women, under-
developed, yet comparatively well-balanced. They had
higher and broader foreheads, similar though shorter
noses, chins not quite so receding, the whole lower jaw
extraordinarily narrow, but the upper lip, as with the
women, huge and out of all proportion.
Undoubtedly the Raots are not a pure race, and even
amono- the few I came across variations so considerable
O
occurred as to puzzle one in tracing their origin. They
invariably possess luxuriant coal-black hair, which never
attains more than a moderate length. It is not coarse in
texture, but is usually so dirty that it appears coarser than
it really is. They have very little hair on their bodies
except in the armpits, and their mustaches and beards
hardly deserve the name.
The men generally part the crop on their head in the
middle, so that it flows on either side of the skull, just
covering the ears, and I found the same strange custom
that I observed years ago among the Ainu of Yezo, of
shaving a lozenge-shaped portion of the scalp in the centre
of the forehead directly above the nose. The women,
25
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
using their fingers as a comb, draw their hair to the back
of the head and tie it in a knot.
The bodies of the better specimens I saw were slight
and agile, with no superfluous fat or flesh. Supple to a
degree, yet solid and muscular, with well-proportioned
limbs, and skin of a rich tinge between bronze and terra-
cotta color, these savages, dirty and unclothed as they
were, certainly appealed to the artistic side of my tempera-
ment, particularly on account of their very majestic de-
portment. I noticed their regular breathing, which they
usually did through the nose, keeping their mouths
tightly closed, and also one very curious peculiarity about
their feet viz., the length of the second toe, protruding
considerably beyond the others, and giving them no doubt
the power of using their toes almost as we should our
fingers. The palms of their hands were almost without
lines, the finger-nails flat, and their thumbs stumpy, with
the last phalanx curiously short.
If the Raots to-day have adopted some articles of cloth-
ing and ornament, besides altering their diet to a certain
extent, it is due entirely to the Rajiwar of Askote, who,
taking a great interest in the tribes he rules over, provides
them in a patriarchal way with all sorts of necessaries of
life. Very few Raots have of late years visited Askote,
as they are of a retiring nature and seem contented with
their primitive abodes in the forests of Chipula, which
they claim as their own. Their only occupations are fish-
ing and hunting, and they are said to have a predilection
for the flesh of the larger Himahlyan monkey, although
from my own observation I should have said that they
would eat almost anything they could get. It has gen-
erally been assumed that the Raot women are kept in
strict seclusion and hidden from strangers, and I cannot
better prove the absurdity of this than by reproducing in
26
RAOT CUSTOMS AND CHARACTER
these pages one of several photographs of the Raot
women, for which they posed at my request without the
slightest objection from the men. They are generally be-
lieved to be chaste, and my photographs prove, I think,
that whatever charm they may possess for the Raot men,
their peculiar beauty offers but little temptation to others.
They are rapidly diminishing in numbers, chiefly no
doubt on account of constant intermarriage. I was as-
sured that the women are not
sterile, but that there is enor-
mous mortality among the
young children. They bury
their dead, and for several days
afterwards offer food and water
to the spirit of the departed.
I was unable to ascertain
what their marriage cere-
monies were like, or if they
had any to speak of, but it ap-
peared that there was a con-
siderable family feeling among
couples living maritally to-
gether. They are supersti-
tious, and hold in curious awe
the spirits of the mountains,
the sun, the moon, fire, water, and wind. Whether this
amounts to a definite form of worship I cannot say: I
certainly saw no signs of the offering of prayers or sacri-
fices.
The Raots claim to be the descendants of kings, and
they refuse allegiance to any one. They will neither
salute you nor bow to you.
" It is for other people to salute us. Our blood is the
blood of kings, and though for choice we have for cen-
27
RAOT WOMEN OF THE FOREST
I. C
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
turies retired to the jungle, we are none the less the sons
of kings."
After a while, and when I had spent some considerable
time among them, these royal savages seemed uncomfort-
able and apprehensive. I had turned over, examined,
drawn or photographed every household article I had
seen, had measured every one, male and female, who con-
sented to be measured, and paid them the stipulated
money. As I was about to leave, the gray-haired man
approached me again.
" You have seen the home of the Raots. You are the
first stranger who has done so, and you will suffer much.
The gods are very angry with you."
" Yes," rejoined another savage, pointing at the ravine,
" whoever treads along that track and is not a Raot will
be afflicted by a great calamity."
" Kush paruani, Sahib' 1 '' (Never mind, sir), interrupt-
ed the guide, " they are only barbarians ; they know no
better. I have myself never been here, so I suppose I
shall also come in for my share."
" You, too, will suffer," said the old Raot, with self-
assurance.
The Raots stood round me silently as I packed up the
camera, and I felt that they looked upon me as a man
whose fate was settled. They did not acknowledge my
farewell, and, had I teen in the least superstitious, might
have made me thoroughly uncomfortable with their
solemn, stolid gravity.
But it all came back to me with horrible intensity later
on, when I was suffering the agonies of hell, and when I
seemed to relive in every moment the experiences of my
whole former life.
28
CHAPTER V
A PILGRIM FROM MAXSAROWAR LAKE THE SPIRITS OF THE MOUN-
TAINSA SAFEGUARD AGAINST THEM TIBETAN ENCAMPMENTS
THE RAJIWAR A WATERFALL WATER-MILLS
HAVING returned to Askote from my excursion, I saw
while going round the town with Jagat Sing, in a low
stone shed by the side of
j
the palace, the tall, gaunt
fi 2:11 re of a man emero-ine <*
t
THE RAJIWAR OF ASKOTE, HIS
BROTHER AND SON
from a cloud of smoke.
" Who is that ?" I in-
quired of my companion.
" Oh, that is a fakir re-
turning from a pilgrim-
age to the sacred lake of
Mansarowar in Tibet.
Many of these fanatics
pass through here during
the summer on their re-
ligious journeys."
My curiosity drew me towards the weird individual.
He was over six feet in height, and his slim body had
been covered with ashes, giving the dark skin a tinge of
ghastly gray. I asked him to come out into the light.
His masses of long hair had been plaited into small tresses
which were wound round his head in the fashion of a
turban the Tatta. The hair, too, had been whitened,
while the long, thin beard had been dyed bright red. His
eyes were sunken, and, apparently to add to the ghastly
29
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
and decidedly repulsive effect, his forehead and cheeks
were plastered with a thick white paint. He seemed half
stupefied, and had very little to say for himself. As can
be seen by the illustration, he was scantily clothed, but he
wore the Kamarjuri, or fakir's chain, about his loins, and
he had a bead bracelet round his arm above the elbow.
FAKIR RETURNING FROM MANSAROWAR
His waist was encircled with a belt of wooden beads, and a
necklace of plaited hair ornamented his neck. He spent
his days rolling himself in ashes and enduring self-imposed
bodily privations, with a view to attain a state of sanctifi-
cation.
Rumors had reached me of some curious superstitions
prevalent among these mountain folk.
" Tell me," I said to Jagat Sing, " are there ' spirits of
the mountains ' in these ranges ? And do the people
really believe in them ?"
30
SPIRITS AND CHARMS
" Yes, sir," replied the young fellow, " there certainly
are a number of them, and they are often very trouble-
some, especially to certain people. They are seldom
known, however, to kill any one."
" Then they are not quite so bad as some human
beings," I replied.
" Well, sir, they are very bad. They seize sleeping
people by the throat with claws like iron, sitting on the
chests of their victims."
" Does not that sound more like an attack of indices-
O
tion ?"
" No, sir. The ghosts of the mountains are the spirits
of people that have not gone to heaven. They are to be
found in swarms at night in the forest. The people are
terrified of them. They haunt the mountain tops and
slopes, and they can assume the semblance of a cat, a
mouse, or any other animal ; in fact, they are said to fre-
quently change their appearance. Where no man can
tread, among rocks and precipices, or in the thick jungle,
the spirits seek their retreat, but often they abandon
their haunts to seek for men. The person who becomes
possessed generally remains in a semiconscious condi-
tion and ejaculates mad cries and unintelligible words.
There are men who profess to know charms to draw
them out. Some remedies for that purpose are common-
ly used by the natives with more or less success. A
grass called Bichna (nettles) has the faculty of frighten-
ing the spirits away when applied on the body of the
sufferer, but the most effective remedy is to make pre-
tence to beat with a red-hot iron the person possessed.
The spirits seem to fear that more than anything else."
" Do the spirits ever speak?" I inquired, interested in
the curious superstitions of these hill men.
" No, sir, not often, nor usually directly, but they do it
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
through people who are possessed by them. It is they
who tell many strange tales of the spirits. One curious
point about them is that they only seize people who are
afraid of them. If defied they vanish."
" Do the natives adopt any special method to protect
themselves from these mountain demons?"
"Fire is the only sure protection. Any one sleeping
near a fire is safe, and as long as there is a flame blazing
the spirits keep away."
" Do you know any one who has seen them ?"
41 Yes. A chaprassi called Joga tells of having been
compelled to travel at night through a forest; he heard
a voice calling him by name. Terrified, he stopped, and
for some moments his voice failed him. At last, trem-
bling all over, he replied, and instantly a swarm of
spirits appeared and challenged him to do them harm.
Joga ran for his life, and the demons vanished. Spirits
have been known to throw stones at passers-by."
" Have you ever seen a spirit, Jagat Sing ?"
"Only once. I was returning to the palace late in the
evening when up the steep road I perceived a woman's
figure. It was a beautiful moonlight night. I walked
up, and as I passed the face of the strange being ap-
peared black, inhuman, and ghastly. I staggered when I
saw the weird apparition approach, my blood ran cold
with fear. I struck a mighty blow with my stick, but,
behold ! the cane whirled through the air and hit noth-
ing. Instantly the ghost vanished."
" I wish, Jagat Sing, that you could show me some of
these spirits; I would give anything to make a sketch of
them."
" You cannot always see them when you want, sir, but
they are always to be avoided. They are evil spirits, and
can do nothing but harm."
TIBETAN ENCAMPMENTS
Leaving Askote (4600 feet) by the winding road
through a dense forest, I crossed by a suspension-bridge
the Gori River at Gargia (2450 feet). The track was
along the low and unpleasantly hot valley of the Kali
River, a raging stream flowing with indescribable rapidi-
ty in the opposite direction to that in which I was travel-
ling. It formed the boundary-line between Nepal and
Kumaon. Huts and patches of cultivation were to be
seen on the Nepalese side, whereas on our side we came
upon deserted and roofless winter dwellings of Shokas
(usually but not correctly called Botiyas) and Tibetans,
who migrate to these warmer regions to graze their
sheep during the colder months of the year. The Sho-
ka summer residences are at greater elevations, mostly
along the highways to Tibet and nearer the Tibetan
boundary. On arriving at the Kutzia Daramsalla a mes-
senger brought me the news that the Rajiwar, whom I
had missed seeing at Askote, was now here for the pur-
pose of making offerings to certain deities. He would
call upon me at 3 P.M.; so, having some time to spare, I
went to bathe in the deliciously cold though, as I found,
dangerously rapid stream. Swimming was out of the
question, and even an immersion bath was attended with
a certain amount of risk. The current caused me to lose
my footing, and I soon found myself washed with great
force against some rocks thirty or forty yards down
stream. I came out of the water minus a few patches
of skin on my knees and shins, and while drying myself
in the sun received a deputation of the Patan (head vil-
lage man) and other natives, conveying with their most
respectful salaams gifts of milk, kielas (bananas), kakri
(gigantic cucumbers), and nuts. These hill fellows im-
pressed me as being of a far superior standard to the
Hindoos of the plains. They were lightly yet strongly
33
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
built, and showed evidence of both character and dig-
nity. With their fair complexion and luxuriant black
hair and mustache they resembled Spaniards or Southern
Italians. They lacked entirely the affected manner and
falseness of speech and demeanor so common among the
natives who are constantly in contact with Europeans.
Below the Daramsalla, near the water-side, was a large
Tibetan encampment of some twenty or thirty tents
which had all originally been white, but were now black
with smoke. In these were men, women, and children,
with all their paraphernalia ; and the first thing that at-
tracted my eye in each tent was the quantity of shiny
brass bowls strewn upon the ground, the entire energy of
the tent-owners seemingly being spent in keeping these
utensils clean and bright, to the utter neglect of their
other property. Walls of sheep-loads were erected either
inside the tent or directly outside, covered in the latter
case with cloths in order to protect them from the rain.
Punctually at 3 P.M. the Rajiwar arrived, carried in a
dandy, and followed by his brother, who sat in a mountain
dandy. The Rajiwar's son and heir rode a splendid gray
pony. I went to assist the old Rajiwar to alight, as for
some years he had been paralyzed. We shook hands
heartily, and I led him into the Daramsalla (2875 feet),
where in default of furniture we all sat on packing-cases.
His refined, well-cut features, his attractive manner, and
the soft, dignified voice in which he spoke clearly indi-
cated a man of superior blood and uncommon ability.
His modesty and simplicity were delightful.
" I hope that your health is good and that you have
not suffered too much on your journey. I was grieved
not to be in Askote to receive you. Are your dear par-
ents alive ? Have you any brothers and sisters ? Are
you married ? I would much like to visit England. It
34
VISIT OF THE RAJIWAH OF ASKOTE
must be a wonderful country, and so much do I admire
it that I have given my nephews a British education,
and one of them is now serving the Maharanee (Queen)
Victoria as Political Peshkar."
I answered his questions as best I could with the aid
of a Hindustani dictionary, expressive gestures, and quick
THE RAJIWAR AND HIS BROTHER IN DANDIES
sketches. He spoke of many of our latest inventions
with marked interest and intelligence.
He seemed greatly struck with my scientific instru-
ments, but he and his people were more particularly at-
tracted by my rifles, revolvers, and other weapons, es-
pecially the .256 Mannlicher, sighted to 1000 yards.
The Rajiwar pressed me to return with him to Askote,.
where he offered to give me tiger, bear, and leopard
shooting. Tempting as the invitation was, I could not
accept it, for my plans would lead me in the opposite di-
rection. His visit lasted for more than three hours, and
I was pleased to feel that we parted great friends.
On the road to Dharchula, along the low-lying valley,
the heat was unbearable, although the sun was near the
35
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
horizon. We came upon a waterfall falling from a great
heio-ht over a series of umbrella-like stalactites covered
o
with moss. The last rays of the sun shone on the drop-
ping water, brilliant and sparkling as a shower of dia-
monds. Several small rainbows added to the beauty of
the scene. I rested some time in this cool and beautiful
retreat. There were birds singing and monkeys playing
among the trees. Farther on, where the river bends,
there are two large caves hollowed in the rock ; the
smoke -blackened ceilings prove that these are used as
camping - grounds by travelling Shokas and Hunyas
(Tibetans). Large black -faced, white -bearded monkeys
swarmed everywhere, frankly and gladly mischievous.
They throw or roll stones down upon the passers - by,
often causing accidents, the track being rather narrow
and sheer above the river.
Previous to arriving at the spot where the Tsuagar
flows into the Kali River one meets with many Tibetan,
Humli, and Rongba encampments.
I camped at Kalika (3205 feet) by the side of a gigan-
tic tree with boughs spreading well over the road, the
chaprassis and men erecting a comfortable chopper of
mats, foliage, and branches.
I was anxious to get through the hot valley with the
greatest possible speed, so, notwithstanding that we had
halted very late at night, I roused my men at 3 A.M. and
again set forth on the march. Here and there along the
road we passed deserted winter dwellings of Shokas,
nearly all with broken thatched roofs. Some, however,
were roofed with slate, the distinctive mark of residence
of the Darma Shokas.
The primitive Shoka water-mills were curious. By a
very ingenious contrivance the water of a stream pro-
pelled a heavy cylindrical stone revolving on the top of
36
THE VILLAGE OF DHARCHULA
another. The grain fell slowly from a magazine above
into a hole pierced in the centre of the upper wheel, and,
finding its way through a channel between the two cylin-
ders, was ground into fine flour.
Dharchula (3550 feet), the largest Shoka winter settle-
ment, is situated on a fine stretch of flat land some hun-
dred feet above the river; the village consists of twelve
long rows of roofless houses very similar in size and
shape. Four larger buildings at the extreme limit of the
settlement attract notice. One of these is a Daramsalla.
The others, two high stone buildings, are a school, hos-
pital, and dispensary belonging to the Methodist Episco-
pal Mission, and under the careful supervision of Miss
Sheldon, M.D., Miss Brown, and that wonderful pioneer,
Dr. H. Wilson. A bungalow of the same mission is
built higher up on the hill-side.
Between the two spots where from Nepal the Lachu
and the Shakta join the Kali was Dubart (370x3 feet),
and from thence one gradually rose to 4120 feet at the
Relegar River, also a tributary of the larger stream.
Having crossed the Rankuti River, I ascended still
higher by zigzag walking, slowly leaving behind me range
after range of mountains beyond the valley of the river;
while on the Nepal side, beyond the three nearer ranges,
snow peaks of great height and beauty stood out against
the sky-line. The highest point on the road was 5450
feet, after which we descended to 5275 feet at the Khela
Daramsalla, which we did not reach till late at night.
Near Khela, on the top of a high mountain, stood a tall
quadrangular rock not unlike a tower. The natives say
that a mere touch causes it to shake and revolve, but
this belief is not general, for others deny that it ever
moves. I could not spare the time to go and obtain the
facts, nor could I obtain reliable information from any
37
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
one who had had actual experience. So far as I could
see with the aid of my telescope, the rock seemed to be
standing firmly on a very solid base. To my regret, also,
I was unable to visit the curious hot sulphur springs on
the Darma Ganga, and the strange cave in which much
animal life is lost owing to the noxious gases rising from
the ground. I gathered from various reports that this
cave or grotto is packed with skeletons of birds and
quadrupeds who have unknowingly entered this chamber
of death.
38
CHAPTER VI
HIGHWAYS AND TRADE ROUTES THE DARMA ROUTE THE DHOLI
RIVER A ROUGH TRACK CONNECTING TWO VALLEYS GLACIERS-
THREE RANGES AND THEIR PEAKS ALTITUDES DARMA, JOHAR, AND
THE PA1NKHANDA PARGANAS THE HIGHEST PEAK IN THE BRITISH
EMPIRE NATURAL BOUNDARIES
THERE are two principal highways from Khela to
Hundes one by the valley of the Dholi or Darma River,
the other along the Kali River and over the Lippu
Pass.
The trade route via Darma is less frequented than the
one by the Lippu, but it is nevertheless of considerable
importance, inasmuch as a certain portion of the trade
of Southwest Tibet with India is carried on through the
medium of the Darma Shokas. It consists mainly of
borax, salt, wool, skins, cloth, and utensils, in exchange
for which the Tibetans take silver, wheat, rice, satoo,
ghur, lump candied sugar, pepper, beads of all kinds, and
articles of Indian manufacture. For a mountain track,
and considering the altitudes to which it rises, the
Darma way is comparatively good and safe, notwith-
standing that in following upward the course of the
Dholi River the narrow path in many places overhangs
deep ravines and precipices. There are many Shoka vil-
lages and settlements on the banks of the stream, the
o
most important ones being the Nyu, Sobala, Sela, Nag-
ling (9520 feet), Bahling (10,230 feet), Sona and Tuktung
(10,630 feet), Dansu and Yansu, where there is a bridge.
On the northeast bank is Goa, facing Dakar, and farther
39
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
up, at an elevation of 10,400 feet, the Lissar, a rapid
tributary with muddy water.
The Dholi springs from a series of comparatively
small glaciers northeast of a ranq-e forming a branch of
O O <D
the higher Himahlyan chain, and extending in a south-
easterly direction as far as the point where the two
DARMA SHOKAS AND TIBETANS
streams meet. It receives, on its precipitous descent,,
many small snow -fed tributaries, those from the Katz
snow-fields and the Nui glacier being the most important.
Its way lies in a tortuous channel amid rocks and ra-
vines, first tending towards the southeast, then due south,,
and last southwest down to the point where it is joined
40
GLACIERS
by the Lissar, coming from the northwest along a line
almost parallel on the opposite watershed of the range.
Tyang, Sipu (11,400 feet), and Marcha (10,890 feet),
are the three most important Shoka villages on the
Lissar.
From Marcha there is a track connecting the valleys
of the Lissar and Gori. You ascend the high mountain
range west of the Lissar by skirting the northern edge
of the Nipchung Rang glacier and keeping south of the
Kharsa glacier, and, on a route that is unpopular on ac-
count of its constant difficulties and perils, you pass, as
you descend in a westerly direction, the Tertcha glacier.
South of the Shun Kalpa glacier you reach first Ralem
and then Sumdu, which is situated on a tributary of the
Gori River, itself a tributary of the Kali. The rugged,
barren chain of mountains separating the Gori from the
Lissar extends in a general direction from south-south-
east to north-northeast up to the Ralfo glacier, and there
turns in a curve northwest among a succession of perpet-
ual snow -fields and glaciers. The glaciers to the north-
east and east of the range outnumber those on the west,
but there is one of importance called in its different sec-
tions the Kala Baland, the Shun Kalpa, and the Tertcha.
There are, along the fifteen most northerly miles of the
range, south of the point where it joins the Himahlyan
chain, other glaciers of considerable size and importance,
but I was not able to ascertain their names, excepting
that of the Lissar seva, the most northern of all, forming
the source of the Lissar. The inter-Lissar-Gori range is
of considerable geographical importance, not only because
it forms the boundary between the two parts of Bhot
called Darma and Johar, but also because of the magnifi-
cent peaks reaching in the Bambadhura, an elevation of
20,760 feet, and in a higher unnamed peak, southeast of
41
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
it, 21,470 feet. There are also the two Kharsa peaks,
the one northwest of the glacier bearing its name being
19,650 feet, the one southwest of it slightly over 20,900
feet, and south-southwest one peak 21,360 feet, another
21,520 feet, and farther still, north of the Telkot glacier,
the highest of all, 22,660 feet. In a southeast direction
there are peaks 20,700 feet, 20,783 feet, and 21,114 feet
high. At the point where the ridge turns south the ele-
vations become lower, the two highest being 19,923 feet
and 19,814 feet, the latter being situated at the point
where a smaller range branches off to the southeast, the
principal range running south for the next eleven or
twelve miles, with no very remarkable elevations. In the
side range there are peaks of 18,280 feet, 17,062 feet,
1 4,960 feet, respectively.
In latitude 29 59' 10" N. and longitude 80 31' 45"
E. the range again separates into two secondary ridges,
one extending southeast, the other southwest, and in turn
both these are a^ain subdivided into minor hill ridges,
O O
along which no summits are found surpassing 13,000 feet,
except the Basili, 13,244 feet.
The Bungadhura Mountain (9037 feet), in close prox-
imity to Khela, terminates the southeasterly division of
the range, separating the Pargana of Darma from that of
Askote. The actual boundary -line, however, does not
follow the higher mountain range as far as the Kali River,
but swerves to the south along the ridge overlooking the
valley of the River Relegar. These mountains are called
the Mangthil.
There is, west of the above ridge, a second and even
more important chain, running out parallel to it from the
backbone of the Himahlyan great mountain system. This
second ridge contains the highest mountain in the British
Empire, Nanda Devi (25,660 feet), with its second peak
42
MOUNTAIN PASSES
(24,380 feet), also Trisul (23,406 feet), East Trisul (22,360
feet), and Nanda Kot (22,530 feet). This range and its
ramifications divide the valleys of the Gori River (the
Pargana of Johar) from the most western portion of Bhot,
the Painkhanda Pargana.
The well-known Milam and Pindari glaciers are one
on the eastern, the other on the southwestern side of
this range. The Milam highway to Tibet, frequented by
the Johari traders, traverses over the Kungribingri Pass
(18,300 feet), and the Uttadhura (17,590 feet), directly
south-southwest of it, into Hundes.
The Pargana Painkhanda, a region equally Alpine,
similarly covered with vast stretches of perpetual snow
and extensive glaciers, is in the northeast corner of Gar-
whal, bordering on Tibet, and along the Dhauli River;
intersecting it, another trade route finds its way into
Western Tibet by the Niti Pass. Leaving the course of
the Dhauli at Jelam (10,100 feet), this track proceeds al-
most due east, rising to an altitude of 16,600 feet on the
Niti, in latitude 30 57' 59" N. and longitue 79 55' 3" E.,
which is, from all accounts, a very easy pass, and quite
free from snow during the summer months. The peo-
ple of the Painkhanda Pargana use this pass as well as
the other passes of Malla Shilanch and Tumzun, besides
the Shorhoti, visited by H. R. Strachey some years ago,
over which, however, only a small portion of the trade
with Hundes is carried, for it is considered the most dan-
gerous of the three. The cold and turbid waters of the
Dhauli, swollen by dozens of equally foaming and mud-
dy tributaries, become ultimately the sacred waters of
the Ganges.
The three Alpine Parganas viz., the Painkhanda, Johar,
and Darma (Darma, Chaudas, and Bias) are inhabited
by races closely allied and akin to those of Tibet proper.
I.-D
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
The region is collectively named Bhot, although that des-
ignation is more particularly applied by the natives of
India to that portion of the country which includes
Darma, Bias, and Chaudas, and which has for natural
boundaries the Kali River to the southeast, separating it
from Nepal and the great Himahlyan chain to the north-
east, extending from the Lissar Peak in a general direc-
tion of about 1 15.
A ramification leaving the main range at the Darma
Pass stretches across from north - northwest to south-
southeast separating the above-mentioned Darma Ganga
from the Kuti River, along which I eventually travelled
on my way to Tibet. The main elevations found on
this ridge are 18,510 feet on the Darma Pass; northeast
of the Rama glacier a peak 20,760 feet; the Gurma
Mountain, 20,320 feet; and others south of them as high
as 20,380 feet, 20,330 feet, 20,260 feet. East of the lat-
ter summit is one 20,455 ^ ee ^
44
CHAPTER VII
THE WORD SHOT AND ITS MEANING TIBETAN INFLUENCE TIBETAN
ABUSES THE EVER-HELPFUL CHANDEN SING THE FIRST SHOKA
VILLAGE CHANDEN SING IN DISGRACE WEAVING-LOOM FABRICS
ALL'S WELL THAT ENDS WELL
THE name Bkot pronounced Bod, Pote, Ttipot, or
Taipot by which this inter-Alpine region is called, means
Tibet. In fact, Tibet is probably merely a corruption of
Tiipot. These lofty " pattis " of Darma, Bias, and Chau-
das nominally form part of the British Empire, our geo-
graphical boundary with Nari Khorsum or Hundes (Great
Tibet) being the main Himahlyan chain forming the
water-shed between the two countries. In spite of this
actual territorial right, I found at the time of my visit in
1897 that it was impossible not to agree with the natives
in asserting that British prestige and protection in those
regions were mere myths ; that Tibetan influence alone
was dominant and prevailing, and Tibetan law enforced
and feared. The natives invariably showed abject obse-
quiousness and servile submission to Tibetans, being at
the same time compelled to display actual disrespect to
British officials. They were driven to bring the greater
number of civil and criminal cases before Tibetan magis-
trates in preference to having them tried in a British court.
The Tibetans, in fact, openly claimed possession of the
"pattis" bordering on Nari Khorsum; and the more ob-
viously to impress our natives with their influence as su-
perior to British, they came over to hibernate on our side,
and made themselves quite at home in the warmer valleys
45
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
and in the larger bazaars. They brought their families
with them, and drove before them thousands and thou-
sands of sheep to graze on our pasture-lands ; they gradu-
ally destroyed our forests in Bias to supply Southwestern
Tibet with fuel for the summer months. For this they
not only paid nothing, but our native subjects had to con-
vey the timber over the high passes without remuneration.
Necessarily such unprincipled task-masters did not draw
the line at extorting from our natives, under any pretence,
money, food, clothes, and everything else they could pos-
sibly levy. Some were known to travel yearly as far south
as Lucknow, Calcutta, and Bombay.
So much for the gentleness of the Tibetans--a hermit
nation living in a closed country !
Chanden Sing, ever anxious to be polite and helpful,
would not hear of my carrying my own sketch and note
books, as had always been my custom, but insisted on do-
ing so himself.
" Hum pagal nek /" (I am no fool!) said he, with an
expression of wounded feelings. " I will take great care
of them."
We started up the steep road, having first descended to
the level of the River Dholi, 800 feet lower than Khela,
crossing by a wooden bridge. The zigzag up the moun-
tain-side seemed endless. Here and there a cool spring
of crystal water quenched our thirst, welcome indeed on
that tedious ascent in the broiling sun. Six miles above
Khela we had risen to 7120 feet, and from this point the
incline became less trying. Still we rose to 7450 feet two
miles farther on, where, under the shade of some magnifi-
cent old trees at Pungo, I halted for lunch. We had en-
tered the first inhabited village of the Shokas, usually but
erroneously called Botiyas, and were now in that part of
their country called Chaudas.
46
DISGRACE OF CHANUEN SING
A pleasant surprise awaited me. A smart-looking lad
in European clothes came boldly forward, and, stretching
out his hand, shook mine for some considerable time in a
jovial and friendly fashion.
" I am a Christian," said he.
" I should say that you were by the way you shake
hands."
" Yes, sir," he proceeded. " I have prepared for you
some milk, some ckapatis (native bread), and some nuts.
Please accept them."
" Thank you," I said. " You do not seem to be a bad
Christian. What is your name?"
" Master G. B. Walter, sir. I teach in the school."
A crowd of Shokas had collected. Their first shyness
having worn off, they proved to be polite and kind. The
naive nature and Graceful manner of the Shoka cnrls struck
O O
me particularly on this my first introduction to them.
Much less shy than the men, they came forward and
joked and laughed as if they had known me all their lives.
I wished to sketch two or three of the more attractive.
" Where is my book, Chanden Sing?" I inquired of my
bearer.
" Hazur hum mallum neh, Sahib" (I do not know,
sir), was his melancholy answer as he searched his empty
pockets.
" Ah ! you villain ! Is that the care you take of my
notes and sketches ? What have you done with them ?"
" Oh, sahib, I drank some water at the Dholi River. I
had the book then in my hand. I must have left it on a
stone when I stooped to drink water from the stream,"
the wretched man explained.
It is hardly necessary to say that Chanden Sing was
promptly despatched to the spot he had named, with strict
orders not to appear before me again without the book.
47
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
I spent two or three pleasant hours in having the primi-
tive Shoka weaving-looms, the processes of spinning and
cloth manufacture, explained to me. As can be seen
from the following illustration, the weaving-looms of the
Shokas are in every way similar to those used by the
Tibetans proper, and are quite simple in construction.
SHOKA WEAVERS
The warp is kept at great tension, and the cloth-beam on
which the woven tissue is rolled rests on the woman's lap
during the process of weaving. There are no treadles in
the Shoka loom, by which the two sets of warp threads are
alternately raised or depressed between each time that the
transverse thread is passed, and all work is done by hand.
The transverse thread is beaten firmly home by means of
a heavy prismatic piece of wood. The material used in
weaving is yak, or sheep's wool, either in its natural color
or dyed in the primary colors of red and blue and yellow,
48
WEAVING OF THE SHOKAS
and one secondary only, green. Blue and red are used in
the greater and equal proportion ; then green. Yellow is
very parsimoniously used. The thread is well twisted
and is subjected to no preparation before spinning, leav-
ing thus a certain greasinessin the closely woven material
that renders it waterproof.
Shoka women are very adept at this ancient art: they
use several sets of heddles, and patiently sit out-of-doors
day after day weaving most intricate and artistic pat-
terns. These colored tissues, if we except the simpler
ones with blue ground and lines for women's garments,
are usually very narrow (about seven inches in width),
whereas the less elaborate ones, such as the white material
of which men's clothes are made, average sixteen inches.
The patterns in these many -colored materials are
woven from memory, and do not contain curves or circles,
but are entirely composed of lines and angles, combina-
tions of small lozenges and squares separated by long tri-
colored parallel lines, forming, so far as weaving is con-
cerned, the main Shoka ideas of decoration and ornament.
The fabrics are extraordinarily strong. The narrow col-
ored cloth of better quality is used mostly for making
bags in which money and food are carried ; the coarser
kind for the double sheep-loads.
The more talented of the Shoka young women show
much ingenuity in carpet, or rather rug, making. They
have copied the idea from old Chinese rugs which have
found their way here via Lhassa, and though upon close
examination it is true they differ considerably in quality
and manufacture, they are pleasing enough to the eye.
These rugs are woven upon coarse thread matting, the
colored material being let in vertically. A soft surface
is obtained, not unlike in general appearance to that of
Persian carpets, but not quite so pleasant to the touch.
49
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
These small rectangular ruo-s are offered in the houses of
o o
Shoka gentlemen to guests to sit on, and are also used to
render the Tibetan saddles less uncomfortable.
As time went on I became very anxious as to the miss-
ing book, for it contained all my notes of the journey.
The thought of its being deposited on a rock washed by
a rapid stream, into which it might easily slip and be car-
ried away, kept me in a state of suspense. At last a stag-
gering figure approached; it was Chanden Sing, waving
the book triumphantly in the air. He had run the dis-
tance of many miles down to the river and back so quick-
ly that when he reached me he was utterly exhausted.
He handed me the book, and once more we started, fol-
lowed by Walter and the whole community, down the
steep incline to the river. At this place some of the
Shokas seized my hands and placed them on their fore-
heads, at the same time making deep bows. Others em-
braced my feet, while the women folks bade me the usual
Hindustani "Acha giao /" (Go well !).
After some time had been wasted, or at least spent, in
receiving these odd salutations, I persuaded them to re-
trace their steps, and they left me.
50
CHAPTER VIII
PRAYER BY WIND - POWER PHOTOGRAPHY UNDER DIFFICULTIES A
NIGHT OF MISERY DRYING UP TWO LADY MISSIONARIES - THEIR
VALUABLE WORK AN INTERESTING DINNER-PARTY AN " ECCENTRIC "
MAN'S TEA-PARTY
To reach Shosha I had to climb a further three miles,
which proved almost as steep as the previous ascent to
Pungo.
A curious
custom of pray-
i n g by wind-
power, probably
borrowed from
the Tibetans, pre-
vails among the
Shokas. The
Tibetans, with a
more intense re-
ligion than the
Shokas, use for
this purpose not
only the wind
but even water to propel their praying-machines. Let
me explain these simple mechanical contrivances for
prayers. One or more rags or pieces of cloth, usually
white, but on occasions red or blue, are fastened and
hung by one end to a string stretched across a road, a pass,
or a path. On crossing a pass for the first time Shokas
invariably cut a strip of cloth and place it so that it will
SHRINE AND FLYING PRAYERS
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
flap in the breeze. Also when materials for a new dress
are purchased or manufactured, it is customary for them
to tear off a narrow strip of the stuff and make a flying
prayer of it. As long as there is motion in it there is
prayer, so that the natives tie them very fast to sticks,
poles, or branches of trees ; and certain shrubs and trees
in weird, romantic spots on the mountains are covered
with these religious signs. Moreover, on the top of near-
ly every Shoka dwelling a vast number of similar little
flags can be seen, as well as near their shrines and at the
outer gates of a village.
I put up at the Titela Daramsalla, one mile above Shosha
village. The weather had been threatening for several
days, and a steady downpour came upon us during the
evening. Work had been accumulating daily. I decided
to develop the large number of plates I had taken on my
journey, a job hateful beyond measure when you are on
the move. Having duly unpacked all the developing-
dishes and prepared the different solutions, I set to work
to make the shelter completely dark. The next impor-
tant item required was water, and of this there was plenty
in that wretched shanty. I had just developed half a
dozen negatives, and was delighted at the excellent re-
sults, when, in consequence of the storm having grown
more violent, the rain began dripping on my head through
the leaky roof of the Daramsalla. To move all the trays
of developers, baths, and fixing solution would have been
a nuisance; besides, I was too interested in my work to be
put out by such small trifles, so I patiently stood this new
discomfort. I shifted my position continually, merely
with the result that the rain dripped alternately on my
back, my legs, or my shoulders, according to my position.
It fell in torrents, and the roof over me was so leaky that
I might as well have been out in the open. I was sitting
52
C ' ' ifi
^ if i J <r V r ' w
mm.'
A NIGHT OF MISERY
in a pool of water, and could not lay my hands upon any-
thing that was not drenched. Fortunately my boxes and
cases were water-tight, or all the instruments and plates
would have been damaged.
Annoying as it was, I had to give up work. The best
thing to do was to go to sleep. Easier said than done.
My bedding and blanket were soaked. The attempts to
He under a waterproof sheet failed, for I felt suffocated,
so I passed the cover to my servant, who, rolling himself
in it, was soon in the arms of Morpheus. Tired and dis-
gusted, I crouched myself up and eventually fell asleep.
I woke up in the morning with a biting pain in my toes.
I had been lying face downward, and had involuntarily
stretched my legs during the night. I discovered to my
horror that one foot rested in the developing-bath and
the other in the fixing solution, which I had forgotten to
empty out of the large celluloid trays.
The morning was spent in drying up things in the sun,
including our clothes, while we, clad in a doti (large
loin-cloth used by the natives of India), squatted down
in the warmth in order to restore our saturated skins to
their natural condition.
I was in the mean time interviewed by many Shokas,
applying for medicines and wishing to sell their native
wares.
A pretty girl, from whom I bought a curious set of neck
hanging's made of musk-deer teeth, wished to be cured of
O O
the goitre, a complaint too common, alas ! on these hills.
Then a child was brought with a nasty tumor in a
state of suppuration inside his left ear. Others wished
to be cured of pains in the stomach and liver, which
are very general among them, owing to their abuse of
liquor.
Upon hearing that two lady missionaries lived a mile
53
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
and a half farther on, at Sirka, I gave myself the pleasure
of calling upon them. They possessed a nice bungalow
at an elevation of 8900 feet above sea-level, by the side of
which was another structure for the accommodation of
converts and servants. Lower on the hill-side they had
built a dispensary and hospital.
I was received with the utmost courtesy by Miss Shel-
don, M.D., and Miss Brown, of the Methodist Episcopal
Mission. I have in my lifetime
met with many missionaries of all
creeds in nearly every part of the
globe, but never has it been my
luck before to meet two such
charming, open-minded, and really
hard-working ladies as the two
who now so kindly received me.
"Come -right in, Mr. Landor,"
said Miss Sheldon, with her de-
lightful American accent, and she
shook hands with me in a good,
hearty fashion.
The natives had praised to me
the charity and helpfulness of this lady. I found this
more than justified. By night or day she would never re-
fuse help to the sick, and her deeds of kindness which
became known to me are far too numerous to detail in
these pages. Perhaps her most valuable quality is her
perfect tact a quality I have found none too common
among missionaries. Her patience, her kindly manner
towards the Shokas, her good heart, the wonderful cures
she wrought among the sick, were items of which these
honest mountaineers had everlasting praises to sing. A
Shoka was telling me that it was not an uncommon thing
for Miss Sheldon to give away all her own food supplies,
54
WRINKLED SHOKA
WORTHY MISSIONARIES
and even the clothes from her back courting for her-
o
self discomfort, yet happy in her good work.
With it was combined a charming modesty. No word
about herself or her actions ever passed her lips. A
pioneer in these parts, she evidently must have encoun-
tered much difficulty in the beginning. At present her
good influence over the Shokas is very considerable.
LAL SING TOKUDAR AND HIS BROTHER
The same can be said of Miss Brown, who was in every
way a worthy comrade of Miss Sheldon.
They have both, in a comparatively short time, become
fully acquainted with the Shoka language, and can con-
verse in it as fluently as in English, this fact alone en-
dearing them greatly to the natives.
They were kind enough to ask me to dinner. " It is
Sunday," said Miss Sheldon, " and we shall have all our
Christians dining with us. You will not mind, I am sure."
I assured her that nothing would interest me more.
I arrived punctually at the hour appointed, and on the
veranda of the bungalow were laid some nice clean mats,,
upon which we all sat cross-legged in native fashion. We
55
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
three Europeans were provided with knife and fork, but
all the natives helped themselves with their fingers, which
they used with much dexterity. There were among the
converts some Hindoos, some Shokas, some Humlis, and
a Tibetan woman. All counted, I suppose there were
about twenty, and it would be impossible to find a better-
behaved set of Christians anywhere. They ate heartily,
and only spoke when they were spoken to.
" I doubt whether I have ever dined with so many good
Christians," said I, jokingly, to Miss Sheldon. " It is de-
lightful."
" They would much like to hear some of the experiences
of your travels, if you would be kind enough to tell them.
That is to say, if you are not too tired and do not
mind."
Interpreted by Miss Brown, I related some of my ad-
ventures in the country of the Ainu. Rarely have I had
such an interested audience. When the story ended they
all salaamed me, and an old veteran Gourkha, one of the
converts, took my hand and shook it warmly.
" You must not mind, Mr. Landor; you see, we treat
our Christians like ourselves,"* quickly interrupted Miss
Sheldon.
" Oh no, I do not mind," I replied. " On the contrary, I
am glad to see it done."
I took my leave and asked the ladies to come to tea
with me the next day. The afternoon came and they
arrived, when, to my horror, it flashed across my mind
that I had neither cups nor saucers nor spoons. I had
some tea, but I had no idea in which box it was, and, to
save my life, I could not lay my hands upon it. This
* N.B. Anglo-Indians very rarely condescend to shake hands with the
natives.
56
HOW TO GIVE A TEA-PARTY
caused a frank and delightful remark on the part of Miss
Sheldon to Miss Brown.
" Does not Mr. Landor remind you of ' that other ' ec-
centric gentleman that came through here last year?"
The moment she had uttered the words Miss Sheldon
sa\v what she had said, and we all laughed heartily.
" You know, Mr. Landor," put in Miss Brown, u we half
foresaw that you would not be provided with these articles
of luxury, and we brought our own cups and saucers."
The news was a great relief to me.
" Well, now, let me persuade you to take some delicious
chocolate instead of tea."
" Very good, we would prefer it. We have not had
chocolate for a long time."
A solid block of chocolate was produced weighing
twenty-eight pounds, and Chanden Sing set to work to
chip off bits with a stone a primitive but effective meth-
od. In the mean time the kettle was boiling, while my
two visitors made themselves as comfortable as was pos-
sible under the circumstances on pack-saddle cases.
The tea-party went off well, for the ladies, evidently sus-
pecting the " eccentricity " of their host, had come pro-
vided not only with cups and saucers, but with spoons,
cake, bread, butter, and biscuits !
57
I. E
CHAPTER IX
DISCOURAGING REPORTS A STEEP ASCENT HOW I CAME TO DESERVE
THE NAME OF " MONKEY " HARD AT WORK PROMOTED IN RANK
COLLAPSE IN A GALE OF WIND TIME AND LABOR LOST
THE weather again became rainy and cold. The re-
ports that I received of the state of the roads farther up
were not encouraging.
" The track is impassable," said an old Shoka who had
just arrived from Garbyang. " The Lippu Pass, by which
you wish to enter Tibet, is still closed, and there is much
snow on it still. Then the Jong Pen of Taklakot, in Tibet,
having been left unpunished for his last year's attack
on Lieutenant Gaussen, has now a strong guard of three
hundred men to prevent foreigners entering the country.
The Dakus (brigands) infesting the region of the Man-
sarowar Lake seem to be more numerous this year than
ever."
I shall come in for a lively time, I thought to myself.
My next camp was at Shankula, 7450 feet above the
sea-level. It was reached by going over a delightfully
cool track, not unlike a shady path through a picturesque
park, among tall cedars of Lebanon, beeches, and maples,
with here and there a stream or spring of water, and hun-
dreds of black-faced, white-bearded monkeys playing and
leaping from tree to tree.
I encamped by the river. The day was glorious. In
front of me, northeast by east, stood, gigantic and majestic,
some high snowy peaks. The valley was narrow, and the
58
A STEEP CLIMB
remainder of the snowy range of mountains was hidden
from sight. What a lovely subject for a picture! I was
tempted to halt and get out my paint-box and sketch-
book ; and abandoning my lunch, which was being cooked,
I climbed to the summit of a high peak in order to ob-
tain a more extensive view. The ascent, first on slippery
grass, then over slaty rocks, was by no means easy, nor
devoid of a certain amount of danger; but so keen was I
to get to the top that I reached the summit very quickly,
leaving half-way down the mountain slope the two men
who had followed me. In places near the top there were
rocks to climb that stood almost perpendicular, and it was
necessary to use hands as well as feet. It was not unlike
climbing up a rough wall. I was nevertheless well repaid
for my trouble. The view from that high point of vantage
was magnificent, and I confess that I felt almost too am-
bitious when, having unslung my paint-box, I attempted
to reproduce on paper the scene before me.
" I am a fool," said I to myself, " to try and paint that !
What painter could do those mountains justice!"
I dashed off the picture, as usual, very hastily, but never
-was a rash venture rewarded with poorer result, and those
eternal giants remained unpainted.
Disconsolate, I made my way down. It was more diffi-
cult even than the climb up. A false step, a slip, and it
might have cost me my life, especially along the steep
precipice, where I had to cling to anything projecting
in the wall -like rock. I had gone four thousand feet
higher than the camp, reaching an elevation of 11,450
feet above sea-level.
It was this performance,"watched anxiously from my
camp down below, as well as by the army of men belong-
ing to the Deputy Commissioner of Almora, who was
also here encamped, that won me the name among the
59
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
natives of " Chota Sahib," the " Langur," the " small sir,"
the " monkey," a name of which I have been proud ever
since.
Some seventy-three miles from Pithoragarh the Shan-
kula River enters the Kali, the course of the Shankula
being roughly from north-northwest to south-southeast.
The track once crossed, the Shankula stream tends
towards the southeast, and with a gentle incline rises to
8570 feet at Gibti, where I encamped somewhat above
the Gala Daramsalla. I had gone through forests of
maple, beech, oak, and rhododendrons, with a thick under-
growth of scrub and bamboo.
The Kali River, about two thousand feet down below
my camp, marks the boundary between Nepal and Kuma-
on. From this high point the foaming stream can be
seen for miles, winding between thickly wooded hills and
mountains like a silver ribbon on a dark, reposeful back-
ground.
The march from my last camp was a very short one, so
I had the greater part of the day left for work. Previously
I had usually halted in Daramsallas (stone-walled shelters),
and in default of these my men put up for me a neatly
made "Chahna,'" 1 or "chopper," a hut of mats and
branches of trees, in the construction of which the Paharis
are wonderfully dexterous. I had also my small " moun-
tain tent," a tente cCabri, quite comfortable enough for
ordinary requirements.
It seems, however, that this style of travelling is not
considered comme il faut by the officials of India. It is
the number and size of one's tents, according to these au-
thorities, that make one a greater or a smaller gentleman.
I had put up my tent three feet high, seven feet long,
* Chahna Pahari. Chopper, Dehsi Hindustani.
60
RANK SETTLED BY SIZE OF TENT
and four feet wide by the side of the two double-leaf
eighty-pound tents of the Deputy Commissioner, but this
official and his companions were far from pleased with
this act of familiarity. For a double-tented sahib to be
seen in company with another sahib whose bijou tent rose
from the ground hardly up to one's waist was infra
THE TENT
and a serious threat to the prestige of the British in India.
I was therefore politely requested to move from my cosey
quarters to a more dignified abode lent me by the one-
eyed Lai Sing, a Tokudar* and brother of the Patwari.t
Being thus promoted in everybody's estimation except
my own, I wrote and copied out my first article for The
* Tokudar Head village man. t Patwart Accountant for a Par-
gana.
6l
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
Daily Mail, and, having done this, I dined and spent a
pleasant evening with Mr. G.
The night was stormy ; the wind shook my tent. I
went to sleep wrapped in my solitary camel-hair blanket.
Some hours later a sharp knock on my head woke me.
It was the centre pole of the tent that had moved out of
its socket and had fallen on me. This was followed by
a rushing noise of canvas, and I found myself in a mo-
ment uncovered and gazing at the stars.
There were white things flying about in the air, and,
to my horror, I discovered the leaves of my Daily Mail
article scattered in the wind.
I jumped up, but of the ten or twelve foolscap leaves of
very thin paper I only managed to recover two or three.
The others soared gracefully to and fro in the air, and I
suppose settled eventually in the Kali. This meant re-
copying the 1 article next day, a tedious job when you are
burning to get on.
The sun rose. The camp began to wake up. All
were shivering with cold. I took my usual cold bath, sur-
rounded by a half-frozen crowd of astonished onlookers,
wrapped up in their thick woollen blankets, crouching
round me with their chins on their knees.
The tent was recovered after a while, and soon all was
ready to start.
62
CHAPTER X
THE NERPANI, OR "WATERLESS TRACK" EXAGGERATED ACCOUNTS
A LONG SHOT THE RESCUE OF TWO COOLIES PICTURESQUE NAT-
UREAN INVOLUNTARY SHOWER-BATH THE CHAI PASS
THE renowned Nerpani, or Nerpania, " waterless track,"
begins at Gibti. Very few travellers have been on this
road, and by the accounts
brought back many people
have been prevented from
imitating their example.
Personally I found the
track far better than I an-
ticipated. I have been on
worse mountain roads,
among less precipitous
cliffs. From what I had
heard it seemed as if the
greater part of the road for
several miles was supported
on crow-bars fixed in the
rock, but such is not the case. Here and there, how-
ever, are spots where tracks have to be trodden upon
overhanging precipices; and where the perpendicular
cliff did not allow of a road to be cut except at great ex-
pense, crow-bars have been more or less firmly planted
horizontally in the rock, and a narrow path made over
them with large slabs of stone. The drop from the path
to the river is often from eighteen hundred to two thou-
sand feet, and the path is in many places no wider than
63
NERPANI ROAD
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
six inches. But to any sure-footed traveller that \vould
not constitute a real danger. The road is tedious, for
the Nerpania cliff along which it has been constructed is
subdivided into three smaller cliffs, separated in turn one
from the other by ravines. It is thus troublesome to
climb up and down some thousands of feet, each time
along interminable and badly put together flights of
steps, only to descend again on the other side. Some of
the descents, especially the last to Gulamla, are precipi-
tous ; but with no nails in one's shoes and no stick in
one's hand, there is really very little danger for people
accustomed to mountaineering.
These are the main elevations on the road : Gibti,
8650 feet, 6750 feet, 7600 feet, 6700 feet, 7100 feet, 6600
feet from Gulamla. At bearings magnetic 350, going
close to the river-bed through a gorge, one obtains a fine
view of a huge gneiss peak towering on the left side of
the Neganza, or Nejangas, Mountain. This peculiar rock,
shaped like a fortress, goes by the name of the Ladjekut
Peak, and rises where the Nejangar River meets the
Kali. Here we pitched our tents.
Towards sunset there was much agitation in camp
over the appearance of wild goats on the other side of
the Kali River in Nepal.
"Your rifle, sahib your rifle!" shouted a chorus of
impatient natives. " Quick, quick, your rifle !"
I seized my Mannlicher and followed the excited gang
to a place some hundred yards away, where a large,
boisterous crowd had collected to watch the game.
" Where are they?" said I, as I could not see anything.
"There! there!" they all screamed at the top of their
voices, pointing to the summit of the opposite cliff, over
four hundred yards distant.
" Oh, that is too far."
64
A GOOD SHOT AND WHAT FOLLOWED
" No, no, sahib ; please shoot," they all implored.
I put up the Lyman back-sight to four hundred yards,,
took aim, and fired. Down came rolling from rock to
rock the poor wild goat, amid the frantic excitement of
the crowd around me. It rolled down until it came to
the shrub and vegetation, where its progress became
slower. It fell on the small trees, and, bending them by
its weight, it would drop a few seconds later on to a
lower one. The trepidation on our side was intense.
At last the graceful body struck across a bigger tree and
swung on it for some minutes. The oscillation slowly
ceased, and tree and goat became motionless. There our
prey stuck fast.
Hatchets were immediately produced, and two tall
trees hurriedly cut and felled. A bridge was being
spanned to cross the dangerous cold and swift waters of
the Kali. A tree was thrown across, and its point just
about reached a high rock on the other side. Then,
amid a dead silence, a coolie balanced himself over it.
He had nearly reached the opposite bank when there
was a crash. The tree broke, and the man was in the
water, frightened and screaming pitifully, clutching a
branch with convulsive fingers.
Another coolie went to his rescue, but the tree being
now swung by the current, he also was pitched into the
water. It was only after a terrible moment of suspense
that our men had the common -sense to draw the tree
back towards the shore. One and all joined in a supreme
effort, and the two men were eventually saved.
Our way to the next camp was first through a high,,
narrow gorge. A beautiful waterfall on terraces faced
>. ?>
us. From 6700 feet the road ascended to 7650 feet,
then on flights of steps and in places over crow-bars the
weary traveller descended to 7000 feet, where at Malpa
i. E 65
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
the road was for a space nearly level. The Malpa River,
running from north to south, was crossed. On the
Nepal side across the Kali the vegetation was luxuriant,
while on the Kumaon side it was sparse and bare.
Farther on, another beautiful waterfall.
THE \RRP\XI T50AD
The track now rose on a steep incline to 8120 feet
among huge rocks and bowlders. What with the gi-
gantic snow-peaks, the pretty waterfalls, the weird char-
acter of the country traversed, one got so interested in
one's surroundings that one forgot all about any difficulty
of climbing.
From barren hills and rocks the track suddenly be-
came clayfsh and sandy, and in a series of zig-zags
well shaded by Tchuk, Utish, and Ritch trees, with a
66
te*
BrocUuuu. Uipzig (0trnwmt).
THE NERPANI TRACK.
LAHMARI CAMP
thick undergrowth of scrub wood and stunted vegetation,
we found ourselves clown as low as 6750 feet, ascending
immediately after in a very short distance to 8100 feet to
Camp Lahmari.
In olden times the path went over the highest part of
the cliff, and it took a good walker the whole day to
,
. .' : .v - * '
THE NERPANI ROAD
reach from one spring of water to the next hence the
name of " waterless."
Here practically ended the Nerpani (waterless track),
and an involuntary shower-bath soon awaited the passer-
by, drenching him to the skin, unless he was provided
with waterproof and umbrella. The spray descended
from a great height for a length of some thirty or forty
yards, the road being very narrow and very slipper}', so
67
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
that progress was particularly slow. The name of the
waterfall was Takti.
The track, if not more level, was nevertheless better
after this to the sore -footed walker. It was less rocky,
and devoid of the tiresome flights of steps.
On leaving Lahmari we immediately had a steep rise
to 9600 feet. Then a drop of 400 feet, and we found
THE CHAI-LEK PASS
ourselves on the Buddi River, a tributary of the Kali.
Just above the bridge was a magnificent waterfall, by
the left side of which we found a kind of grotto hol-
lowed out under a rock. The Shokas and Tibetans used
it as a camping-ground.
To our right, high up on the cliff -side, was the pict-
uresque village of Buddi (9300 feet), with its two and
three storied houses. Below and over it in long zigzags
68
THE CHAI PASS
could be seen the track ascending to the top of C/iai-
Lek, or Tcheto Pass, as the Shokas call it. At bearings
magnetic 170 \ve had the towering Namjun peak, so
high that I was told it could be seen even from Almora
and Ranikhet.
Then as we proceeded up the steep clayish track I
could not, on looking back, help admiring the magnifi-
NARROW GORGE BETWEEN TWO MOUNTAINS
cent Kali valley, with its gigantic cliffs and gorges sur-
mounted by lofty snow peaks. On that Chai Pass my
two aneroids registered an altitude of 11,190 feet. I was
now on a small, flat table-land. Darcy Bura, the richest
Shoka trader from Buddi, had. erected here a bargain-
house for the purchase and exchange of borax, salt, wool,
and other articles from Tibet. On the left side of the
road a large cave in the rock had been walled and partly
69
IX THE FORBIDDEN LAND
roofed over for the use of wife-seekers from the villages
of Buddi and Garb van Q[. These houses were called
./ o
Rambangs, and were an old institution among the Shokas,
of which I shall have occasion to speak at length later
on. As everywhere else, a few high poles with flying
prayers and a bell had been placed near the pass.
CHAPTER XI
A SERIES OF MISFORTUNES TIBETAN ATROCITIES ON BRITISH SUB-
JECTS TIBETAN EXACTIONS REVOLTING CRUELTY TO ONE OF HER
MAJESTY'S SUBJECTS ASSAULT ON A BRITISH OFFICER A SMART
BRITISH ENVOY
MY arrival at Garbyang was watched by hundreds of
men, women, and children, all squatting on the edge of
the flat mud roofs of their habitations, while a few dozen
people followed me respectfully to my camping-ground
beyond the village. A large tent had been put up for me
by Pundit Gobaria's brother, who had been informed of
my coming by Anti Ram Sah, my banker at Almora.
Mr. G., Deputy Commissioner, arrived later.
I was very anxious to make immediate arrangements
to enter Tibet, but all my efforts to obtain reliable follow-
ers were of little avail.
I heard to my regret, a day or two later, that the plan
of my journey, which with so much trouble and care I had
kept secret, had been divulged to the Tibetan authorities.
Misfortunes never come singly ! Against my will I had
been advised to pay a certain sum at Almora, in exchange
for which I received a letter of credit on Pundit Gobaria,
a rich trader of Garbyang, who was to pay me the amount
in silver. Unluckily, Gobaria was still absent in Nepal,
and no one else could cash -a check for the amount I
wanted. This was tiresome all the more so as I had
counted on the money. I immediately sent a runner to
Almora to have the sum in silver sent at once. This in-
volved much publicity and considerable risk.
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
Also delay was inevitable. All the passes were closed
and fresh snow was falling daily. It was just possible
with much difficulty for a man to cross the Lippu Pass, but
no baggage could be taken through. I made up my mind
to remain a few days in Garbyang, and took this oppor-
tunity to have a large Tibetan tent manufactured to shel-
I
THE GATES OF GARBYANG
ter my future followers if ever I could find any and it
might help me, I calculated, to become friendly with the
natives, among whom I hoped to find some willing fol-
lowers.
Dr. H. Wilson, of the Methodist Evangelical Mission,
went to much trouble in trying to get together men for
me, but, though his influence was and is considerable in
Bias and Chaudas, his efforts were not crowned with suc-
72
I. F
CASES OF TIBETAN CRUELTY
cess. The Shokas know well how terribly cruel the Tibe-
tans are. They have suffered at their hands more than
once, and even of recent years the Government of India
has had reported by its own officers cases of horrible tort-
ures inflicted by the Tibetan authorities on British sub-
jects captured by them on our side of the frontier. Some
of the atrocities committed by the Lamas on British sub-
jects are revolting, and it is a matter of great regret and
indignation to the Englishmen who visit these regions to
think that the weakness of our officials in Kumaon has al-
lowed and is allowing such proceedings still to go on. So
incapable are they, in fact, that the Jong Pen of Taklakot,
in Tibet, sends over, "with the sanction of the Govern-
ment of India," his yearly emissaries to collect Land
Revenue* from British subjects living on British soil.
The Shokas have to pay this tribute and do so out of
fear in addition to other taxes and trade dues iniqui-
tously exacted by the Tibetans.
On the slightest pretext the Tibetans arrest, torture
mercilessly, fine, and confiscate property of British sub-
jects on British territory.
At the time of my visit there could be seen, in Gar-
byang and other villages, British subjects (Shokas) who
had been mutilated by the Tibetan authorities.
Even Dr. H. Wilson, who had erected a dispensary at
Gungi (one march beyond Garbyang), was lately threat-
ened with confiscation and worse perhaps if he did
not immediately comply with the exactions of the Tibe-
tans. He declined to do so, and reported the matter to
the Government, relying on a good rifle in the house and
his many servants. His determination not to be intimi-
* The sums are now collected by the Political Peshkar and handed
over in Garbyang to the Tibetans.
73
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
dated seems to have given him temporary security, for the
Tibetans are as cowardly, when they think themselves
matched, as they are cruel.
Let me quote one example of cruelty which occurred
as late as 1896. A Shoka trader, undeniably a British
subject, had gone over the border, as is customary with
them during the summer, to dispose of his merchandise
in the Tibetan market. He and another Shoka, also a
British subject, had a quarrel. Aware that the first
Shoka was wealthy, the Tibetan authorities took this pre-
text to arrest him and impose upon him an exorbitant
fine, besides, the additional punishment of two hundred
lashes, to be administered to him by order of the Jong
Pen. The Shoka remonstrated, on the plea that he had
done no harm, arid that, being a British subject, they had
no right to so punish him. The Jong Pen saw his orders
executed, and further commanded his men to cut off the
wretched prisoner's hands. He was made over to two
soldiers intrusted with the carrying-out of the sentence.
They led him away to the place of punishment. The
Shoka was of a powerful build and possessed courage.
Though half dead and covered w r ith wounds, he overcame
his guardians and escaped. The alarm was instantly
given and a large party of horsemen sent to capture him.
They caught him up, and when at close range fired on
him and wounded him in the knee, smashing the knee-
cap. He was surrounded, pounced upon, beaten merci-
lessly, and, last but not least, all his fingers were one by
one crushed into pulp between two heavy stones. In
this condition he was dragged before the Lamas, only to
be decapitated ! Mr. Sturt, an able and just officer, who
was then Deputy Commissioner at Almora, became ac-
quainted with these facts, and, having fully ascertained
their accuracy, reported them to the Government, strong-
74
ATTACK ON A BRITISH OFFICER
ly advising immediate action against the Tibetans for
this and other cruelties that were constantly taking place
on our frontier. Though it was undeniably proved that
the victim was a British subject, the Government of India
took no steps in the matter.
The same year, 1896, Lieutenant Gaussen, who on a
shooting-trip tried to enter Tibet by the Lippu Pass, was
MATAN SING CHAPRASSI
NARENGHIRI CHAPRASSI
surrounded by Tibetan soldiers, and he and his servants
were seriously ill-treated. The British officer received a
nasty wound on his forehead, and one of his servants, who
behaved heroically, was so cruelly handled that to-day, two
years later, I hear he is still an invalid.
Mr. J. Larkin, Deputy Collector at Almora, was then
despatched to the frontier. No better man could have
been sent Firm, just, and painstaking, he became popu-
lar and much respected among the Shokas. He listened
to their troubles and sufferings ; he administered justice
wherever possible. He refused audience to no one, and
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
during his flying visit became well acquainted with the
country, the people, and all that went on. The poor
Shokas felt much relieved, thinking that at last the
Tibetan abuses would be put an end to. They were
not mistaken, at least for a time. The Jong Pen of
Taklakot was called upon to answer for his many mis-
deeds. He refused an interview. Mr. Larkin sent word
across the border that he would have no trifling and
that he must come, upon which the Jong Pen, with
his officers and Lamas, crossed the snowy Lippu Pass.
Trembling with fear and bending low to the ground, the
Tibetans, with abject servility, entered the tent of our
British envoy. The account of the interview, which I
received in full from a Shoka gentleman who was pres-
ent as interpreter, is amusing and curious, showing the
mutability and hypocrisy of the Tibetans. In the long-
run, and being well acquainted with the cowardice of his
visitors, Mr. Larkin not only obtained redress on every
point, but gave the Jong Pen and his officers a severe
harangue. The result of the interview was that the col-
lection of the Land Revenue should be put a stop to, and
that Tibetan law should no more be administered on our
side of the frontier.
Mr. Larkin's visit to Bhot was cut short by urgent
orders to return immediately to Almora.
The following year (the year of my visit, 1897), Mr. G.,
Deputy Commissioner, undid much that the previous of-
ficer had accomplished. The Jong Pen, when summoned;
declined to come, and sent over deputies in his place.
The upshot of it is that Land Revenue is again paid by
the Shokas to the Tibetan tax - collectors through the
Peshkar.
I have mentioned these facts as representative of many,
and to show how it came that the natives, who had never
76
SHOKAS UNPROTECTED
had any protection from our Government, were disinclined,
notwithstanding the temptations I offered them, to brave
the dangers of Tibet. I, who later on suffered so much
through being betrayed by Shokas, am the first to forgive
and not to blame them. Though nominally our subjects,
their actual rulers are the Tibetans, and \ve do nothing to
protect them against the exactions and tortures of the in-
truders. Why, then, should we expect them to be faithful
to us ? The Shokas are not treacherous by nature, but
they are compelled to be deceitful to protect their lives
and their homes. Properly treated, these honest, gentle,
good-natured mountaineers would assuredly become loyal
and trustworthy subjects of her Majesty.
CHAPTER XII
TIBETAN THREATS MY BIRTHDAY RAVENOUS DOGS A BIG DINNER
SHOKA HOSPITALITY
THE Jong Pen of Taklakot, on hearing of my proposed
visit, sent threats that he would confiscate the land of any
man who came in my
employ, besides men-
aces of " flogging "
and subsequent " be-
heading " of myself
and any one caught
with me. Personal-
ly I paid little atten-
tion to these intimi-
dations.
Consulting the cal-
endar one day a
thing I did with great
THE HOUSE WHERE I STAYED AT GARBYANG regularity in tllCSC
regions I made out
that it was the ist of June, and I then remembered that
the following day would be my birthday. Feasts were
scarce in these high altitudes, and the prospect before me
was that they would in the near future be even scarcer.
It therefore occurred to me that I could not better while
away a day at least of this weary waiting than by treating
myself to a real big feast.
Chanden Sing was despatched round the village to
78
A BIRTHDAY FEAST
summon up to my tent all the local Bunyas (tradespeople).
Rice, flour, eight pounds of butter (ghi), a large quantity
of lump sugar, pepper, salt, and a fat sheep were purchased.
The latter was forthwith beheaded, skinned, and dressed
in the approved fashion by the faithful Chanden Sing, who
was indeed a Jack-of-all -trades.
Unfortunately I am a careless house, or rather tent,
SHOKA HOUSE WITH STRANGE LADDER
keeper, and I intrusted my chaprassis with the job of
stowing away the provisions, for which purpose a recess
under the native low bedstead served to perfection, hold-
ing as it did the different -sized vessels, with the bachri
(sheep) in pieces, and the rice, flour, butter, etc.
While this was being done I worked away hard at writ-
ing, and, getting interested, continued at it till an early
hour of the morning ; I got tired at last, and, wrapping
79
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
myself up in my blanket, I soon went to sleep next to a
heap of stones piled up by the cautious Chanden Sing.
44 Sahib," had been his warning, " there are many hungry
dogs about If they come, here are a few missiles ready
for them," and he pointed at the ammunition.
"All right; good-night."
The wisdom of this was soon apparent, for I had not
slept long when I was aroused by the hollow sound of
lip-smacking, apparently arising from more than one
mouth, accompanied by the movement of the stretched
canvas bed on which I was lying. Jumping to my feet,
I alighted upon a living mass of unwelcome guests; but
before I even realized what had been going on, they had
scampered away, the brutes! carrying between their tight-
ly closed jaws a last mouthful of my dainties.
The ammunition at my disposal \vas quickly used up
a poor revenge, even when I heard the yell of a dog I hap-
pened to hit in the dark. On striking a match, I found
the large brass bowls emptied, the rice and flour scattered
all over the tent, and the sheep practically vanished.
I determined not to be done out of this piece of in-
dulgence, which now seemed desirable beyond words, al-
though I crawled back into my blanket, and found for
a while oblivion in sleep. I was no sooner up in the
morning than I planned a new banquet. But in the nick
of time, Mr. G., who had gone a march farther, returned
with his escort of policemen, moons/iees, pundits, and chap-
rassis.
" Never mind, Landor," said he, kindly, when I had
told him of my trouble, " you come and dine with me.
These chaps shall get you up a special dinner in their
own way."
My stores were put under tribute, instead of the native
Bunyas, and we had a very excellent meal indeed. We
80
A BIG DINNER
had Bovril soup and Irish stew, roast mutton, potted
tongue, roast chicken, gigantic swan eggs poached on
anchovy toast, jam omelette, chow-chow preserves, ginger
biscuits, boiled rhubarb, and what not else remembered
by me with desperate longing in the near future, when
anv of these dainties would have been like manna from
SHOKA HOUSES
heaven. I must not forget, by -the -way, an excellent
plum-cake of no small dimensions, crammed full of rais-
ins and candy, which I had brought from Mrs. G. at
Almora to her husband, and to which we, with blessings
for her, did the fullest justice.
Thanks to Mr. ,G., and also to the fortunate coinci-
dence of receiving a batch of letters from parents and
friends, which reached me on that day by runner from
Khela, I do not think that I could have spent a happier
81
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
birthday anywhere, and I knew well enough that these
were to be the last moments of contentment an end to
the flesh-pots of Egypt. After this I should be cut off
from civilization, from comfort even in its primitive form;
and, to emphasize this fact, it happened that on the very
morning following my birthday Mr. G. left and continued
his journey to Almora.
The weather was cold and rain fell in torrents, the
thermometer never being above 52 during the warmest
hours of the day. My soaked tent stood in a regular pool
of water, notwithstanding the double trenches round it,
and several Shoka gentlemen had before asked me to
abandon it and live in a house. They were all most anx-
ious to extend to me hospitality, which I, not wishing to
trouble them, and in order at all hazards to be entire-
ly free and unhampered in my actions, courteously but
firmly declined. Nevertheless, quite a deputation ar-
rived on June 4th, renewing their request ; but I was deter-
mined to have my way. In vain ! They would not see a
sahib under cold canvas while they themselves had com-
fortable homes. They held a consultation. Unexpect-
edly, and notwithstanding my remonstrances, my loads
were suddenly seized and carried triumphantly on the
backs of a long row of powerful Shokas towards the vil-
lage. I had to follow nolens volens, and from that day on
I grew through constant contact daily more convinced of
the genuine friendliness and kind-heartedness of these
people.
To prevent my coming back, they even pulled down
the tent, and, wet as it was, carried it away. Zeheram
and Jaimal, two leading Shokas, held my hands and pat-
ted me on the back as they led me with every sign of
courtesy to my new dwelling.
This turned out to be a fine two-storied building with
82
SHOKA HOSPITALITY
nicely carved wooden door and windows colored red and
green. So great was the anxiety and fear of these good
people that I should turn back at this juncture, that some
twenty outstretched hands seized me by the arms, while
others pushed me from behind up a flight of ten or
twelve steps into the house, where I found myself the
guest of my good friend Zeheram. I was given the front
of the first floor, consisting of two large clean rooms,
with a very fair native bedstead, a table, and two or more
moras (round cane stools covered with skin) ; and I had
no sooner realized that I must stay than presents of
sweets, preserved fruit, dried dates, and tea were brought
for my acceptance tea made in the Tibetan fashion with
butter and salt in it.
Even if at first I had had slight apprehensions at the
expression of such very unusual hospitality, these were
soon dispelled, and I was proud to be assured by my host
that I was the first Englishman (or, for that, European or
American) who had been allowed to enter the living part
of a Shoka house and partake of food in a Shoka dwell-
ing. The opportunity was too good to be lost, and I was
sorely tempted to tarry among them, so as really to get
an insight into their mode of living, their customs and
manners.
83
CHAPTER XIII
SHOKA HOSPITALITY HOW I OBTAINED MUCH INFORMATION ON A RE-
CONNOITRING TRIP A TERRIBLE SLIDE
THEY are, indeed, Nature's gentlemen, these worthy
Shokas, and as such they did all in their power to make
my stay among them pleasant. It was a contest be-
tween them as to who should entertain me first, and who
should be the next. Invitations to breakfast and dinner
literally poured in ; and those convenient " sick head-
aches," " colds," and " previous engagements," so opportune
in more conventional parts, were of no avail here. No
card, no friendly note bade one to come and be merry.
They generally arrived en masse to fetch me. Pulling
and pushing played a not unimportant part in their urg-
ing, and to decline was thus out of the question. Indeed,
I must confess there was but little inclination to decline
on my part. When you arrived, your host spread out
fine mats and rugs, of Tibetan and ancient Chinese man-
ufacture, and often of great value. In front of a raised
seat were displayed in shiny brass bowls the various
viands and delicacies which constituted the meal. There
was rice always ; there were curried mutton, milk, and
curd with sugar; then chapatis, made in Hindustani fash-
ion ; and Shale, a kind of sweet pancake made of flour,
ghi (butter), sugar or honey ; also Parsad, a thick paste
of honey, burned sugar, butter, and flour, all well cooked
together a dainty morsel even for a jaded palate.
I was invariably made to sit on the raised seat, which I
84
CORDIAL REPASTS
did cross-legged, while the crowd squatted respectfully
en the floor round the room, forming a semicircle with
me in the centre. I generally ate with my fingers in
their own manner, a courtesy they particularly appreciated;
and although I must have seemed awkward to them at
first, I soon acquired a sort of dexterity in manipulating
hot food meat and vegetables, for instance with my
SHOKA CHILD BEING SMEARED WITH BUTTER
hand. The trick is not very difficult, but it requires
practice. You gather up your five fingers downward in
the dish, seizing a mouthful, and with a rapid circular
twist of the hand you collect as much sauce as you can
round the morsel you have caught. With a still more
rapid movement, and before anything has time to drip
between your fingers, you half drop and half throw it
into your mouth.
I soon found that I could, during these cordial repasts,,
enlivened as they were by moderate libations of chokti and
syrap (wine and spirit distilled from wheat), acquire con-
siderable knowledge of anthropological and ethnological
85
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
interest, and gather also much valuable information about
Tibet and its people. They became, in fact, in the few
-days I spent among them, confiding to such a degree,
and looked upon me so much as one of themselves, that
I soon obtained the run of the whole place. They came
to confide their grievances and troubles ; they related to
me their legends and
folk-lore. They sang to
me their weird songs
and taught me their
dances. They brought
me to their marriages
and strange funerals ;
they took me to their
sick men, women, and
children, or conveyed
them to me for cure.
Thus, to my delight,
and with such unique
chances, my observa-
tions of a pathological,
physiological, and an-
atomical character be-
THE MASTER OF A HIGH-SCHOOL,
ALTITUDE 10,940 FEET
came more interesting
to me day by day, and I
have attempted to de-
scribe in a later chapter some of the things I was able
to note.
After lingering in Garbyang for several days, I paid off
my two chaprassis, Matan Sing and Narenghiri, and they
returned to Almora.
On June 6th I started on a journey towards the fron-
tier, with a view to reconnoitre.
Crossing into Nepal territory below Chongur village,
86
VILLAGE OF GUNGI
and following upward the right bank of the Kali River
in a direction of 320 (bearings magnetic), I reached Kanwa,
a Shoka village on a high, cliff-like plateau under which
meet the three rivers Kali, Taki, and Kuti. The Kali
turns suddenly to 37 (bearings magnetic), while the Kuti
River keeps a general
direction of 325" (bear-
ings magnetic).
Having crossed again
into Kumaon, I struck
camp at Gungi. Before
entering the village, I
passed Dr. Wilson's dis-
pensary, not then com-
pleted. In the village
the houses were deco-
rated with long poles
joined by strings, from
which hung and flew
gayly in the breeze hun-
dreds of wind prayers.
The dwellings were
mostly of the ancient,
pure Shoka architect-
ure, and not so fine or
so clean as those in
Garbyang. The place was picturesque, clear-cut against
the curious background of the dome -like mountain, the
Nabi Shankom, a peak of uncommon beauty, with its gray
and reddish striped strata. Near it on another mountain
is the Gungi Shankom, a gigantic quadrangular rock of a
warm yellow and reddish color, not unlike a huge tower.
When I reached its foot, the sun was casting his last dying
rays on it, and the picture was so magical that I was tempt-
l.-G 87
GUNGI SHANKOM
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
ed to sketch it. As I sat there, the shadow of the coming
night rose higher and higher on the mountain-side, tinting
it violet blue, and above it the Gungi Shankom stood re-
splendent in all its glory like a tower of fire till night
descended, covering the mountain first, and little by little
the Gungi Shankom itself. I shall not easily forget this
sight.
I slept under my little tente d'abri, and found it de-
lightfully cosey and warm.
At 10 A.M. the next day I raised camp. The elevation
here was 10,940 feet. Interesting was the Chiram, a col-
lection of tombs, five in number, made of slabs of white
stone with poles placed vertically upon them, and from
the summit of which hung flying prayers. The Kuti
River to my left was wide and rapid. On the opposite
bank the village of Ronkan (11,100 feet) made a pretty
vis-a-vis to the Nabi village on our side of the stream,
at the same elevation, and directly under the lee of the
Nabi Shankom.
As I rose gradually along the river course the vegeta-
tion grew sparse, and in front of me there remained noth-
ing but barren rocks and high snowy peaks. The spot
where, from opposite sides, the Gunkan River and the
Nail River throw themselves into the Kuti River is most
picturesque. There are on the water's edge a few pine-
trees, but above there is nothing but wilderness rock and
ice and snow.
I soon came upon much snow, and places where the
track along the mountain-side was undiscoverable. Walk-
ing was tiresome enough on the loose shingle and shale,
but it became worse when I actually had to cut each step
into the frozen snow. The work was tedious to a degree,
and the progress slow. After a while I noticed a series
of lofty snow tunnels over the raging stream, which is
88
AN EXTENSIVE SNOW-FIELD
earlier in the season covered entirely by a vault of ice and
snow. The higher I got the harder and more slippery
grew the snow. The soles of my shoes having become
soaked and frozen, made walking very difficult. At
12,000 feet, being about three hundred feet above the
stream, I had to cross a particularly extensive snow-field,
ZAZZELA MOUNT, NEAR GUNGI
hard frozen and rising at a very steep angle. Some of
my coolies had gone ahead, the others were behind. Not-
withstanding the track cut by those ahead, it was neces-
sary to recut each step with one's own feet, so as to pre-
vent slipping. This was best done by hammering several
times into the white sheet with the point of one's shoe
until a cavity was made deep enough to contain the foot
and to support one upright. It ought to be done care-
fully each time, but I fear I had not the patience for that.
I thought I had found a quicker method, and, by raising
my knee high, I struck the snow with my heel, leaving
89
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
my foot planted until the other one had by the same
process cut the next step.
It was in giving one of these vigorous thumps that I
hit a spot where, under a thin coating of snow, was hard ice.
My foot, failing in its grip, slipped, and the impulse caused
me to lose my balance. I slid down the steep incline
at a terrific pace, accompanied in my involuntary tobog-
ganing over ice and snow by the screams of my horror-
CHIRAM
stricken coolies. I realized that in another moment I
should be pitched into the stream, which would have
meant being carried under the long tunnel of ice to meet
certain death beneath it. In those few seconds I found
time to speculate even as to whether those stones by the
water's edge would stop me, or whether the impetus must
fling me past them into the river. I attempted to get a
grip in the snow with my frozen ringers, to stem myself
with my heels, but with no success, when I saw ahead of
me a large stone rising above the snow. With desperate
90
*
INVOLUNTARY TOBOGGANING
tension of every nerve and muscle, I knew as I approached
it, with the foaming water yonder, that it was my only
hope. I consciously straightened my legs for the contact.
The bump was tremendous, and seemed to shatter every
bone in my body. But it stopped me, and I was saved
only a few feet from the water's edge miraculously, al-
though fearfully bruised, with no bones broken.
My fingers were cut by the ice and bleeding ; my clothes
were torn. When I was able to stand, I signalled to the
frightened and wailing coolies above to go on, and I my-
self proceeded along the watercourse until I found a spot
from which I could regain the upper track.
SHCKA CHILD SMEARED WITH BUTTER. AND LEFT
TO ABSORB BUTTER IN THE SUN
CHAPTER XIV
A PALAVER TO SEE IS TO BELIEVE DANGERS AND PERILS ON THE
SNOW AND ICE THAR AND GHURAL STALKING A TIRING CLIMB TO
l6,000 FEET THE COLLAPSE OF A SNOW BRIDGE
AT Kuti I halted and summoned the leading natives to
my tent. Would it be possible, I asked them, to get over
the Lumpiya Pass or the still higher Mangshan ? The first
is a rarely frequented pass on the way to Gyanema, the
other a high and most difficult pass by which it is possi-
ble, though not easy, to reach the Rakstal Lake by the
jungle without going near a Tibetan settlement or en-
campment.
" No," was the decided answer from all the Shokas.
" The snow is now too deep. Fresh snow falls daily. For
another fortnight at least no human being can get across.
To attempt it will mean losing one's life. At their best,
during one month in summer, those two passes are ardu-
ous and dangerous. Now it would be mere folly to at-
tempt their ascent."
With my distressingly sceptical nature I believe little
that I do not see. I started next morning to observe for
myself. My bearings were roughly northwest. Seeing
me determined, several of the Kutial Shokas changed
their mind and volunteered to follow me. They were of
considerable help in many dangerous places. Here and
there a few paces of narrow track were uncovered, other-
wise we went long distances on frozen snow, over preci-
pices down which it was almost fatal to look.
DIFFICULT TRAVELLING
The lucky hair-breadth escape of the previous day con-
tributed to make me lose confidence, not in myself, but in
that white emblem of purity and innocence, in reality the
most treacherous substance in creation. I soon found
that wherever there was snow there was trouble. In
spots where the snow was particularly hard frozen we
KUTI
dared not attempt to walk on the steep, slippery surface,
and we had to descend to the river, which was here
bridged over completely with ice and snow. Crossing, we
would attempt progress on the other side, and, having pro-
ceeded with difficulty for a few hundred yards, would have
to retrace our steps and try the first bank again. We thus
crossed and recrossed the Kuti River more than half a
dozen times, each crossing being preceded by a precipitous
descent and immediately followed by a steep ascent. The
93
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
cracks in the ice by the water-side were constant and
perilous, and we did not risk remaining near them longer
than was necessary. In six or seven hours we had walked
a distance of less than four miles. Leaving the Kuti
River and following due north the course of a tributary,
the Kambelshio, we crossed over to its farther bank and
pitched our tents at an altitude of 13,420 feet.
There remained a few hours of daylight when we ar-
rived, and I employed them by going after Thar, or Tehr,
and Ghural* (Himahlyan chamois) a couple of miles
farther. I rose to 15,000 feet on a needle-like peak tower-
ing over the spot where, in a narrow, picturesque gorge,
the Tongzu pangti enters the Kuti River. The sources of
the Tongzu pangti are about a thousand feet higher than
the spot where it meets the Kuti River, and the stream
has its birth from the melting snows, descending precip-
itously and at a very short distance into the larger river.
The rocks are here furred with saltpetre, and it is said
to be a favorite spot for Thar.
I enjoyed my trip so much that, rising with the sun,
I started on the following morning to repeat my experi-
ence. Moreover, I wanted to climb to some high point
wherefrom I could make certain whether it was possible
to proceed immediately across the Himahlyan range, or
whether it was advisable to wait patiently until the snow
* The GJntral is the Himahlyan chamois, found at even comparatively
low elevations. They are generally seen in herds, with the exception of
the oldest males, which are usually met with alone. It is not uncommon
to see as many as eight or ten together, especially during their feeding
time, shortly after sunrise and an hour or two before sunset.
Thar, or Tehr (male), and Jahral (female), is the true and proper wild
goat of the higher Himahlyan range. It is rarely found lower than 7000
feet, and often as high as 15,000 feet above sea-level. -Those found at
lower elevations do not possess quite such a luxuriant growth of hair, nor,
I am told, are their curved horns quite so long. They climb about preci-
pices and dangerous spots with the greatest ease.
94
A MAGNIFICENT VIEW
had to some extent disappeared. I walked four miles
from camp, reaching an altitude of 16,000 feet. The as-
cent was rather tiring. Having wounded a Thar, I went
after it up a fatiguing snow-field at a speed too great to
be comfortable at such a very high elevation. When I
OLD SHOKA WOMAN SMOKING
reached the top, I was out of breath and the Thar too far
off for a second shot.
The view this high point commanded was stupendous.
For miles and miles and it seemed hundreds of miles
snow, snow, nothing but snow! There stood Jolinkan
Mount rising above 19,000 feet. On either side of the
Kuti River were peaks as high as 20,000 feet and more.
Here and there the white sheet that covered the sur-
rounding country seemed almost greenish. Those spots
were glaciers, and I saw many of them, feeding as they
95
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
do the numerous streams flowing into the Kuti River. I
returned to camp for lunch. It was useless to proceed
and even more useless remaining still. I gave orders to
raise the camp, and at 2 P.M. we were under way back to
Kuti.
The day had been an unusually warm one, and the
surface of the snow, so hard the previous day, was now
soft and watery. Several of the snow bridges had al-
ready disappeared.
I had descended to the river preceded by some of my
coolies. Two of them just in front of me were crossing
over the stream on a thick and broad archway of ice. I
was waiting for them to be safely across. When the
men had nearly reached the other side they noticed a
peculiar vibration underfoot. Scrambling away as best
they could, they gave the alarm.
I drew back hastily. In the nick of time ! for with a
deafening roar like magnified thunder, echoed from cliff
to cliff, down went the bridge. The huge pieces of ice,
only a moment before forming part of the vault, were
now swept away by the furious stream and thrown with
tremendous force against the next bridge, which quivered
under the terrible clash.
Three days' marching over the same route brought me
back to Garbyang,
CHANDEN SING AND THE DAKU
ROLLING UP MY BEDDING
9 6
CHAPTER XV
AN EARTHQUAKE CURIOUS NOTIONS OF THE NATIVES A SHOKA.
TAILOR AND HIS WAYS THE ARRIVAL OF SILVER CASH TWO ROCKS
IN THE KALI ARROGANCE OF A TIBETAN SPY
ON hearing that Dr. Wilson was now in Garbyang I
went to call upon him. Squatted on soft Chinese and
Tibetan mats and rugs, we were enjoying cup after cup
of tea and devouring chapatis, when suddenly the whole
building began to shake and rumble in the queerest
manner, upsetting teapot and milk, and sending the cha-
patis roaming to and fro all over the room.
Leaving Dr. Wilson to save our precious beverage, I
pulled out watch and compass to notice duration and di-
rection of the shock. It was undulatory, very violent,,
and oscillating from south-southwest to north-northeast.
The duration was exactly four minutes two seconds. The
earthquake began at 5.20 P.M. and ended at 5h. 24m. 25.
" It strikes me that it would have been wise to have
gone out of the house," said I. " It is a wonder the
building did not collapse. My cup is full of mud and
debris from the ceiling." :
" I have saved the tea for you !" said the doctor, trium-
phantly, lifting in his muscular hands the teapot, which
he had carefully nursed. He had soon discovered my
devotion to the yellow liquid.
We were quietly going on with our refreshment when
a band of excited Shokas broke into the room.
* The ceilings of Shoka houses are plastered with mud.
97
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
" Sahib ! sahib ! where has it gone ?" cried they in a
chorus, stretching their hands towards me and then fold-
ing them in sign of prayer. " Sahib ! tell us where it has
gone !"
" What ?" rejoined I, amused at their suspense.
"Did you not feel the earth shake and quiver?" ex-
claimed the astounded visitors.
" Oh yes, but that is nothing."
A WELL-ATTENDED SCHOOL
" Oh no, sahib ! That is the precursory notice of
some great calamity. The ' spirit ' under the earth is
waking up and is shaking its back."
" I would rather it shook its back than mine," said I,
jokingly.
" Or mine," added the doctor, lightly, much to the as-
tonishment of our awe-stricken callers.
"Which way did it go?" repeated the impatient
Shokas.
I pointed towards the north-northeast, and they gave a
sigh of satisfaction. It must have proceeded to the other
side of the Himahlyas.
98
THE EARTH-DEMON OF THE SHOKAS
It appears, according to the primitive notions of the
Shokas, that inside the earth lives in a torpid condition
an evil spirit in the shape of a gigantic reptile. The
rumbling preceding an earthquake is, to the Shoka
mind, nothing else than the heavy breathing of the mon-
ster previous to waking, whereas the actual shock is
caused by the brute stretching its limbs. When fully
awake the serpent-like demon darts and forces its way in
one direction, compelling the earth to quake all along its
subterranean passage, often causing by so violent a pro-
cedure great damage to property and loss of life, not to
speak of the fear and terror which it strikes in man and
beast should the capricious spirit by chance make a re-
turn journey to the spot below the earth's crust directly
underfoot. It is curious and interesting, in analyzing
these crude notions, to find that, independently of the
cause attributed to its origin, the Shokas are aware of
the fact that an earthquake " travels " in a certain di-
rection. Moreover, common symptoms of the approach
of a violent earthquake, such as depression and heaviness
in the atmosphere, which they attribute to a feverish
state of the giant reptile, are readily recognized by them.
On my return to civilization some months later I dis-
covered that on the same day a violent shock was felt all
over India, causing considerable damage, especially in
Calcutta.
I had on first arriving in Garbyang ordered a tent, and
the tailor who was intrusted with its manufacture had,
after several days' intoxication, completed it. It was on
the Tibetan pattern, with picturesque ornaments in blue.
He had also been making me some Nepalese clothes, and
these really turned out quite a success no small wonder,
considering the way he went to work. I had given him
cloth and lining, which he took away with him, but he
i. H 99
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
never troubled to take my measure ! He simply assured
me that the suit would be ready on the following day.
This was, of course, not the case, and on the next after-
noon and for six consecutive days he placed himself in a
state of hopeless intoxication under my window, singing
and making comical salaams each time I, after the custom
of the country, threw something at him to induce him to
go away. On the seventh day I caught him and shook
him by the ears, explaining that if the clothes were not
ready before nightfall I would, in default of other tailors,
sew them myself.
" I have a drop too much in me," confessed the amus-
ing rascal. " I will go to sleep now. When I wake in
the afternoon I shall be sober and will finish my work.
Do not be angry, sahib. If only you drank yourself,
sahib, you would know how lovely it is to be drunk."
His philosophy did not agree with mine. But I felt sure
that I had so far impressed him that he knew he must
risk some personal violence if he delayed much longer.
Sure enough, late in the evening he came with his work.
" How they will fit I do not dare to guess," I remarked
to Dr. Wilson, " considering the condition the man has
been in while making them, and taking into account that
he never measured me nor tried them on. After all,
Nepalese clothes should be tight-fitting all over."
Wonderful as it may seem, the clothes fitted like a
glove. Clearly that man was a genius. Anyhow, he
was intemperate enough to have been one.
One day I had gone for a walk along the deserted road
from the village. I was about a mile and a half from the
inhabited part when three men who had been fast ap-
proaching stood with blunt swords in front of me. They
waved their blades clumsily, and shouted at the top of
100
their voices in an excited manner, "Riipiya! RupiyaT
(Rupees ! Rupees !) Without thinking of the money that
I had sent for and expected to receive, I took their at-
titude as a threatening demand for the cash I might have
on me. They were really grotesque in their gesticula-
tions, and I brusquely pushed by them and continued my
constitutional. When they
saw me depart they scurried
away hastily towards Garb-
yang, and I gave the occur-
rence no further thought. On
my return to the village, how-
ever, some hours later, a
crowd of Shokas came up to
me announcing that my mon-
ey had arrived, and that the
scared messengers, not daring
to come near me a second
time, had gone to Dr. Wil-
son's house. There I found
a peon and two ckaprassis,
the three men I had met on
the road. They had brought
a sum of eighteen hundred
rupees in silver, nearly all in
two-anna and four-anna pieces
(sixteen annas to a rupee), which I had sent for from
my banker, Anti Ram Sah, at Almora, and which it had
taken three men to carry, owing to its weight.
After an easy explanation with these three very peace-
ful highwaymen, the silver was conveyed to my room, and
the greater part of the night had to be spent in counting
the diminutive coins and packing them up in rolls of ten
rupees each.
101
MY BANKER AND AGENT
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
Just below Garbyang in the Kali River were, among a
mass of others, two large rocks in the centre of the
stream. These two rocks were constantly watched by
the Shokas. The Kali, though named after a small
spring below its real source, is, like most of its tributa-
ries, mainly fed by melting snows. The greater quantity
of water descends from the Jolinkan, the Lumpiya, the
Mangshan, the Lippu, and the Tinker passes. The first
four are in Kumaon, the. last in Nepal. It stands to rea-
son that the warmer the weather the greater is the quan-
tity of snow melting on the passes, and therefore the
higher the level of the river. When the two rocks are
altogether under water all the passes are known to be
open.*
During the time I was in Garbyang I never had the
luck to see this, but the level of the river was daily rising,
and the time of tiresome expectation was certainly relieved
by many amusing and a few awkward incidents.
Having once been informed of my plans, the Jong Pen
of Taklakot, in Tibet, was kept fully acquainted with my
movements. His spies went daily backward and for-
ward with details about me. This my friends confided
to me regularly. One of these emissaries, a stalwart Tib-
etan, more daring than the rest, actually had the impu-
dence to enter my room and to address me in a boister-
ous tone of voice. At first I treated him kindly, but he
became more and more arrogant, and informed me, before
several frightened Shokas to whom he was showing off,
that the British soil I was standing on was Tibetan prop-
erty. The British, he said, were usurpers and only there
on sufferance. He declared that the English were cow-
* N.B. The Lippu Pass, the lowest of all, may be crossed with difficulty
nearly all the year round.
102
AN IMPUDENT TIBETAN
ards and afraid of the Tibetans, even if they oppressed the
Shokas.
This remark was too much for me, and it might any-
how have been unwise to allow it to pass unchallenged.
Throwing myself on him, I grabbed him by his pigtail,
and landed in his face a number of blows straight from
THE VALLEY OF GARBYANG
the shoulder. When I let him go he threw himself down
crying, and implored my pardon. Once and for all to
disillusion the Tibetan on one or two points, I made him
lick my shoes clean with his tongue, in the presence of
the assembled Shokas. This done, he tried to scamper
away, but I caught him once more by his pigtail and
kicked him down the front steps which he had dared to
come up unasked.
103
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
Chanden Sing happened to be basking in the sun at
the foot, and, seeing the hated foreigner make so con-
temptible an exit, leaped on him like a cat. He had heard
me say, " Ye admi dura crab " (That man is very bad).
That was enough for him, and before the Tibetan had re-
gained his feet my bearer covered his angular features
with a perfect shower of blows. In the excitement of the
moment, Chanden Sing, thinking himself quite the hero,
began even to shy huge stones at his terror-stricken victim,
and at last, getting hold of his pigtail, to drag him round
the yard until I interfered and stopped the sport.
104
CHAPTER XVI
THE RAMBANG SHOKA MUSIC LOVE -SONGS DOLEFUL SINGING
ABRUPT ENDING SOLOS SMOKING WHEN MARRIAGE IS CONTEM-
PLATED THE DELANO ADULTERY PUNISHMENT
ONE Shoka institution, surprising in a primitive peo-
ple, but nevertheless, to my way of thinking, eminent-
ly sensible and advantageous, is
the Rambang, a meeting-place or
club where girls and young men
come together at night for the
sake of better acquaintance prior
to entering into matrimony. Each
village possesses one or more in-
stitutions of this kind, and they
are indiscriminately patronized by
all well - to - do people, who recog-
nize the institution as a sound
basis on which marriage can be
arranged. The Rambans: houses
o o
are either in the village itself, or
half-way between one village and
the next, the young women of MOTEMA A SHOKA BFAUTY
one village thus entering into
amicable relations with the young men of the other, and
vice versa. I visited many of these in company with
Shokas, and found them very interesting. Round a big
fire in the centre of the room men and women sat in
couples, spinning wool and chatting merrily, for every-
105
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
thing appeared decorous and cheerful. With the small
hours of the morning they seemed to become more sen-
timental, and began singing songs without instrumental
accompaniment, the rise and fall of the voices sounding
weird and haunting to a degree. The Shoka men and
women possess soft, musical voices, and the sounds
which they utter are not simply a series of notes emitted
ON THE WAY TO THE RAMBANG
through the throat, but, as it were, the vibration of im-
pressions coming from the heart and transmitted by
means of their voices to others. Eastern in its charac-
ter, the Shoka music is pleasing to the Western ear, not
because it possesses quick progressions, flourishes, or any
elaborate technicalities, but because it conveys the im-
pression of reality and feeling. The responsive duets,
sung by a young man and answered by a girl, pleased me
106
SHOKA MUSIC
most. All their songs are plaintive, and contain modu-
lations of the voice so mysteriously charming in effect,
and so good in tone, that they really affect one pro-
foundly. They only sing when the mood takes them ;
never with a view to please others, but always simply to-
give vent to their emotions. Their love-songs generally
open with a sentimental recitative, and then change into
actual singing, with frequent modulations from one key
into another. The time is irregular, and though certain,
rhythmical peculiarities recur con-
stantly, yet each performer gives
to what he sings so strong a per-
sonality of execution as to make
it almost an individual composi-
tion. Any one hearing Shokas
sing for the first time would im-
agine that each singer was impro-
vising as he went along, but on
closer comparison it will be found
that musical phrases, certain fa-
vorite passages and modulations
in the voice, constantly recur not
only in each song, but in all songs. They seem all of
them based on the same doleful tune, probably a very
ancient one, and only the different time in which it is
given, and the eccentricities of the singer, give it a sep-
arate and special character. One characteristic of Shoka
songs as of so many other Oriental tunes is that they
have no rounded ending, and this, to my ears, rather
spoiled them. A similar abrupt break is a feature of
their dances and their drum -beating. The song sud-
denly stops in the middle of the air with a curious grat-
ing sound of the voice, and I could not obtain any en-
tirely satisfactory explanation of this ; the only answer
107
SHOKA EAR-
RING
SHOKA EAR-
RING
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
given me was that the singer could not go on forever,
and that as long as he stopped it did not matter how
he did it. Further, they considered an abrupt ending
most suitable to music (or dancing), as it immediately
brought you back to your normal state, should your
mind have been carried away. One pleasant feature
was that their songs were never sung in a loud tone of
SILVER EAR-RINGS OF TIBETAN ORIGIN, WITH CORAL BEADS
voice, nor did they aim at notes too high or too low
for their voices, but kept themselves well within their
compass.
The only difference between solos given by men and
those sung by women was that the former showed more
plaintiveness and sentimentality, and greater mutability
of thought, whereas the latter were more uniform, more
lively, and less imaginative in their representation of
feelings. The words of the love - songs, nearly always
impromptu, can hardly be set down in these pages.
From our standard of morality, and away from their own
special surroundings, they might seem almost lewd, while
in their place they certainly did not impress me as of-
108
MARRIAGE CUSTOMS
fensive. When singing, the Shokas usually raise the end
of their white shawl or dress, and hold it by the side of
the head.
Smoking was general, each couple sharing the same
pipe. A few burning sticks of pine stuck in the rough
SHOKA WOMAN WEAVING
wall formed the only illumination, save the fire in the
centre of the room slowly burning out. Signs of sleepi-
ness became evident as morning came, and soon they all
retired in couples, and went to sleep in their clothes on
a soft layer of straw and grass. There they slept peace-
fully in a row, and I retraced my steps to my dig-
gings amid a deafening barking of pariah dogs. At
these gatherings every Shoka girl regularly meets with
young men, and while she entertains the idea of selecting
109
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
from among them a suitable partner for life, she also does
a considerable quantity of work with her spinning-wheel.
Eventually, when a couple consider marriage advisable,
the young man, dressed in his best clothes, proceeds to
the house of his intended father-in-law, carrying with him
a pot victiokti (wine), dried {?\\\\.,ghur (sweet paste), miseri
(sugar-candy), and grilled grain. If the bridegroom is
considered a suitable match, the parents of the girl re-
ceive the young man with due consideration, and par-
take heartily of the food and drink proffered by him.
The marriage is there and then arranged, the bride-
groom further disbursing to the father a sum of not less
than five rupees and not more than one hundred. This
is the etiquette of good Shoka society, and of all peo-
ple who can afford it, the payment being called " milk-
money," or money equivalent to the sum spent by the
girl's relations in bringing her up. The marriage cere-
mony is simple enough. A cake called Delang is baked,
of which the friends of the two families partake. If
either the bridegroom or bride refuse to eat a share of
the cake, the marriage is broken off; if they both eat
some of the cake, and later any dissension arises between
them, all those who assisted at the function are called as
witnesses that the marriage took place. Often even this
primitive ceremony of eating cake is dispensed with, and
Shoka marriages begin and continue as happy and faith-
ful unions, without any special form of service or rite to
solemnize the tie.
They not only visit adultery on the guilty man himself
by beating him, but the men proceed en masse to the
house of his parents and denude it of all furniture, stores
of grain, and merchandise. They confiscate the sheep,,
goats, yaks, and all their valuable saddles and loads, and
present the whole proceeds to the man whose wife has
I 10
STRICT SOCIAL CODE
been seduced a recompense for the shame suffered.
Frequently the unfortunate and innocent relations of the
evil-doer are bound and even beaten to death by the
villagers. These severe measures are resorted to in order
to maintain a high standard of morality and honor, and
RAMBANG GIRLS WITH ORNAMENTS
there is little doubt that, primitive as these methods may
seem, the good results obtained more than justify them.
There are very few illegitimate births, with the exception
of occasional Rambang children, and their arrival is a
matter of such disgrace that they cannot be looked upon
as seriously discrediting the social value of the Rambang.
in
CHAPTER XVII
FUNERAL RITES
DEPARTURE OF THE SOUL CREMATION AMUSEMENT OF THE DEAD
MAN'S SOUL THE LAY-FIGURE FEASTING DOLEFUL DANCE TRANS-
MIGRATION OF THE SOUL EXPENSIVE CEREMONIES OFFERINGS BE-
FORE THE LAY-FIGURE DANCING AND CONTORTIONS MARTIAL
DANCES SOLO DANCES THE ANIMAL TO BE SACRIFICED AND THE
LAY-FIGURECHASING THE ANIMAL FROM THE VILLAGE TEARING
OUT ITS HEART THE YAK DRIVEN OVER A PRECIPICE HEAD SHAV-
ING A SACRED CAVE
THE Shokas ascribe death to the departure of the soul
from the body, and to this notion is due the curious rever-
ence they show for the spirit or memory of their dead. I
witnessed a funeral ceremony quaint enough to deserve
record.
A man had died a painful death, the result of an ac-
cident. His friends were immediately sent for, and the
corpse, having been smeared with butter (ghi], was dressed
in his best clothes. They bent his body double before the
rigor set in, and placed him on a hurriedly constructed
wooden hearse. He was covered with a blue-and-gold
embroidered cloth, and a white one over it. At sunrise
the funeral procession left the house for the place of crema-
tion. First came a row of ten women, their heads cov-
ered with a long strip of white cotton cloth, one end of
which was tied to the hearse. Among these were the near
relations of the deceased, including his wife and daughters,
crying and wailing the words, " Ok bajo ! oh bajo /" (Oh
father ! oh father !), the rest of them sobbing and making
112
A FUNERAL
great show of grief. The deceased having been somewhat
of a favorite in Garbyang, the villagers turned out in
force to render him this last tribute, and they took their
places in the procession as it slowly wound down the cliff
towards the river. The hearse was carried by two men,
and each male Shoka following bore a log or bundle of
WEEPING WOMEN UNDER WHITE CLOTH
firewood. We reached the Kali. The body was tempo-
rarily laid on the bank of the stream, while all the men,
with heads uncovered, collected large stones and pieces of
wood. With the stones a circular crematory oven, five
feet high, six feet in diameter, with an opening on the
side facing the wind, was erected by the water-side. The
wife and daughters of the departed, with their hoods turned
inside out and with covered faces, squatted down mean-
while by the hearse, moaning and keeping a small fire
I.-H 113
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
alight. When all preparations were made, the oven being
heaped up with logs of wood, the body was untied from
the stretcher and lifted by two intimates of the departed
on to the funeral pile. All valuables were removed, his
gold ear-rings, his silver locket and bracelets; and a large
knife was used for some purpose or other which I could not
SHOKA FUNERAL PILE
quite see, except in slitting the lobes of the corpse's ears
to remove his ear-rings more quickly. Branches of pine-
tree were deposited on the body, and a large pot of but-
ter was set by its side. A brass bowl of chokti (wine) was
poured on the head, and then, in profound silence, fire
was set to the pile.
A few white puffs showed that it had caught fire, and
then a dense column of black smoke rose from it, filling
the atmosphere with a sickening smell of singed hair and
114
CREMATION
burning flesh. The wind blew the smoke towards me,
and I was enveloped in it for some moments, during
which I could see nothing of what was going on, and I
felt my eyes smart and my nostrils fill with the smoke
and the stench. Gradually a tall flame, over twenty feet
high, leaked out, consuming the body and showing me,
as the atmosphere cleared, the Shokas down by the river
washing their hands and faces to cleanse themselves of
what they look upon as unclean the contact with a corpse.
Retracing their steps to the village, the women cried and
moaned, carrying back to the house the clothes of the de-
ceased and his brass bowls.
Reaching home, it was incumbent on them to provide
lavishly for the amusement of the dead man's soul. A lay-
figure crudely constructed of straw and sticks was attired
by them in the clothes of the departed, and covered over
with Indian fabrics embroidered in gold and red and blue,
and a turban was stuck on the head, with -^panache made
of a branch of fir-tree. The Kalihe was at the side of the
image. When the fire was extinguished, a visit was paid
to the cremation spot by the relatives of the deceased, and
such pieces of bone as the knee-joints, elbows, and the
larger vertebras of the spine, usually left undestroyed by
the flames, were collected and deposited inside the clothes
of the image. Wheat, rice, and flour were purchased in
large quantities and cooked to provide food for the mul-
titude of friends who remained the guests of the family
during the whole time of the funeral. A sheep a day is
usually killed and eaten on such occasions, and cask after
cask of chokti (wine), zahn (a liquor distilled from barley,
rice, and wheat), and anag (from fermented grain of vari-
ous kinds) are emptied by the mourning crowd. The
women folk of the dead man mourned round the effigy,
resting their heads on it, crying and imploring the beloved
i. j i 1 5
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
one to return to life. Other rows of women, with their
hoods turned inside out in sign of mourning, danced
gracefully in circles round the dressed-up figure, left the
house by one door in the basement, described an arc in
the open, and returned by another door, while men were
dancing a doleful dance outside the house. Beating of
WOMEN DUSTING AND CARESSING THE LAY-FIGURE
drums went on the whole day languid and sad at mo-
ments, excited, violent, and rowdy at others, according to
the mood of the musicians and the quantity of liquor con-
sumed by them. On each day of these proceedings, which
lasted for three or four days, rice, baked wheat, and wine
were placed before the effigy, until, when it was assumed
that the soul of the dead had had a sufficiently amusing
time, arrangements were made for its transmigration from
the lay-figure into a live sheep or yak. If the deceased is
a man, the animal chosen to represent him is a male ; if a
woman, a female ; but no ceremony of this sort follows the
116
COSTLY FUNERAL CEREMONIES
cremation of children under ten or twelve. In the case
of the old man whose funeral I witnessed, a sheep was
chosen, instead of the time-hallowed yak, the procuring of
which from Tibet used to be a very costly business. The
use of a sheep for these sacrifices is quite a recent innova-
tion, brought into fashion by the greatest Shoka trader in
WOMEN DANCING ROUND THE LAY-FIGURE
Garbyang, called Gobaria, whose intention it was to put
down the unnecessary waste of these ceremonies ; but
many pious Shokas, I was assured, are not satisfied with
so small an offering as a single sheep, and slaughter two,
or even more, on these occasions.
After several days' dancing and gorging in-doors, a
crowd collects, to the sound of the drums, outside the
habitation. The lay-figure is transported from the room
either directly outside the dwelling or to some picturesque
spot in the woods. This is generally on the fourth day.
117
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
Bowls with food are placed in front of it, and the dancing
is begun, to a curious sentimental strain, with a graceful
series of contortions, by girls and women waving large
pieces of white material. The legs keep time with the
arms, and each leg is alternately bent at the knee until it
nearly touches the ground. The head is inclined to the
right or left, and thrown backward or forward according
to the beating of the drum. The circular motion in the
dancing begins first very slowly, and the speed then in-
creases by degrees, abruptly ending in odd and suggestive
postures. During the intervals of dancing the relatives
go round and round the lay-figure, dusting and fanning it
with their white cloths.
In the afternoon the men join the performance, and
though their dancing has practically the same character-
istics and motions as the women's dance, it is usually so
much more violent that it almost partakes of the character
of a war-dance. They hold in their right hands a sword,
in their left a circular shield, and some of the younger men
show great skill in the rapid manipulation of their blades,
twirling them round their heads and behind their backs.
There are solos, duets, and trios, in which the drummer
or drummers take part, and when the dancing is collec-
tive they head the procession, contorting their bodies and
beating their drums with a stick on one side and the palm
of the hand on the other.
The whole crowd is constantly regaled by the family
with corn baked with sugar, roasted Indian corn, rice,
sweets, ghur, and miseri, when the lay-figure is supposed
to have had its fill. While the mob eat, the ladies of the
house return to the effigy with quick beating of the
drums, and again double themselves up in solemn lengthy
courtesies. Perhaps the most interesting, because the most
accomplished, were the solo male dancers, each performer
118
DANCES AND CONTORTIONS
displaying his own particular genius. The drummer
beats his drum whimsically fast and slow alternately,
with no rule just as it pleases his fancy, and the dancer
always keeps time with him in all his frenzies and eccen-
tricities, so that his movements are sometimes so slow as
THE GOAT, WITH SOUL OF DECEASED, BEING FED
to be barely noticeable, and at others so rapid that his
arms and legs can no longer be distinguished. I hap-
pened to witness no less than six funerals simultaneously
in Garbyang, and a collective war-dance of as many as
three hundred men. It went on during a whole day and
the greater part of the following night, torches and a big
bonfire burning.
Eventually, amid firing of guns, howls, yells, and deaf-
ening hissing of the assembled crowd, the animal to be
119
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
sacrificed is dragged before the lay-figure. Long colored
ribbons are tied round its horns, and the ends left hang-
ing by the side of its head. Sandal-wood is burned under
the beast's nostrils, which is supposed to induce the soul
of the departed to enter and establish itself in the animal.
The clothes, the turban, the shield, the jewelry, are torn
GOAT, WITH SOUL AND CLOTHES OF DECEASED
from the figure's back and piled on to the goat, which is
now the impersonation of the deceased. It is fed until it
can hold no more, wine and liquor being poured down its
throat, and large dishes of all possible delicacies being
placed before it. The women relatives devote to it their
tenderest affection, and shed tears over it in the con-
viction that it holds the spirit of their lost protector.
Stuffed with food and stupefied by the alcohol, the beast
submits, emotionless and immovable, to the wild caresses,
120
YAK DRIVEN OVER PRECIPICE
HOW THE SOUL IS DISPOSED OF
prayers, and salaams showered on it. Again the hissing,
whistling, and yelling begin, and a rush is made for the
animal, which is seized by the horns, the neck, the tail,
wherever it can be caught hold of, and dragged, pushed,
beaten, and at last chased out of the village, but not until
SENDING THE GOAT AWAY FROM THE VILLAGE
after the clothes, shield, sword, turban, and ornaments
have been torn from its back. It is eventually handed
over to the Hunyas or Jumlis or Humlis, who on these
occasions benefit by the simplicity and superstition of the
Shokas, and who throw it down, rip the body open, and
pull out the heart, or twist it in the inside with a jerk that
kills instantly. This method applies to sheep or goat.
When a yak is sacrificed, very much the same rites take
121
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
place up to the moment when the lay-figure is deprived
of its clothing and the yak invested with it. It is similar-
ly beaten and dragged about, and left on the top of some
mountain, the crowd calling after it, " Go ! go! We have
feasted, feted, and fed you. We have done all in our
power for your welfare. We cannot do more. Go now."
TEARING OUT THE HEART OF THE GOAT
With this the yak, with the soul that has been driven into
it, is left to its own devices, and as soon as the Shokas
have departed is driven by the Tibetans over a precipice,
it being against their faith to draw blood from a yak. In
the fatal leap the animal is smashed to pieces, and the Tib-
etans, collecting the remains, gorge themselves with the
prized meat of their cherished yak.
As a mark of reverence the Shoka men remove their
caps not only while following the corpse to cremation,
122
POST MORTEM RESTITUTION
but also during the feasting, the male relatives themselves
even shaving their heads ; and this practice is occasional-
ly extended to the whole male community in the case
of a particularly respected villager dying. The women
remove their jewelry, and, as already noted, turn their
hoods inside out.
When all is over, some restitution of his property is
made to the dead, and odd articles, such as brass bowls
or a gun or a shield or sword, are placed in a sacred
cave, which none dare desecrate by entering to remove
anything. These caves are high up on the mountain-
sides, and are said to be full of sacred offerings, which
have accumulated there in the centuries.
123
CHAPTER XVIII
TOUCHING SHOKA FAREWELL FEELINGS CURIOUSLY EXPRESSED SOBS
AND TEARS THE START A FUNERAL PROCESSION DISTRESSED
FATHER AND MOTHER KACHI AND DOLA THE WORSE FOR DRINK
ANXIOUS MOMENTS THE BRIDGE DESTROYER
THE day of my departure came. It was after dark.
Outside my dwelling a crowd of Shokas had assembled.
I bade farewell to
my host Zeheram
and to his wife
and children, who
with tears in their
eyes wished me
God-speed.
" Salaam, sahib,
salaam !" repeated
Zeheram, sobbing
and bringing his
hand respectfully
to his forehead.
" You know, sahib,
that a horse goes to a horse, a tiger to a tiger, a yak
to a yak, and a man to a man. A man's house is an-
other man's house, no matter whether the color of their
skins differ or not. Therefore I thank Heaven that you
have accepted shelter under my humble roof. You must
have been uncomfortable, for all you sahibs are rich and
accustomed to luxury. I am only a trader and a cul-
tivator. I am poor, but I possess a heart. You, unlike
124
KACHI AND HIS RELATIONS
A TOUCHING FAREWELL
other sahibs, have always spoken kindly to me and to all
of us Shokas. We feel that you are our brother. You
have given us presents, but we needed them not. The
only present we wish for is that, when you reach the end
of your perilous journey, you will send us a message that
you are well. We will all pray day and night for you.
Our hearts are sore at your leaving us."
THE PATAN SUMMONING MY COOLIES FROM THE ROOF OF HIS HOUSE
This from the rough old boy, whom I had got really to
like, was touching, and I told him I hoped I might some
day be able to repay him for his kindness. When I de-
scended the steps there was quite a crowd in the yard.
Every one wished to bid me farewell. The men took
my right hand in both theirs and brought it up to their
foreheads, muttering words of grief at my leaving. The
women gently caressed my face and bade me " Niku tza"
(Go well Farewell). These are the Shoka fashions of
taking leave of friends who are departing for distant
lands.
L K 125
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
Led by the hand by a really grieving company, I moved
towards the narrow, steep descent to the Chongur bridge,
cut into the slope of the high cliffs of clay. On the way
I called at Kachi's house, but he had gone ahead. A more
mournful procession could not be imagined. The faint
rays of a new moon gave an added melancholy to the
scene, and that peculiarly impressive sound of sad steps,
if I may thus express the pathetic cadence of people's gait
when afflicted, made me feel as if I were attending my own
funeral. I begged them to return to their homes, and one
after the other they came to embrace my feet and to hold
my fingers. Then, hiding their faces in the palms of
their hands, they one by one made their way up the gray
track cut into the lofty cliff, and, like phantoms, gradually
becoming smaller and smaller, vanished in the distance.
Still some twenty or thirty insisted on escorting me down
to the stream. Farther on I came upon the excited figure
of an old woman tearing her hair and crying pitifully.
She threw herself at my feet, imploring me to take care
of her son. It was Kachi's distressed mother. I com-
forted her as best I could, and also the desolate father
(good old Junia), who was there with tears streaming down
his cheeks, to bid me an affectionate farewell.
" Where is your son ?"
" You will find him a little farther down, sahib."
I did together with four other people lying on the
ground all in a heap. One of them, who tried to stand up,
called out, " Kachi, get up, here is the sahib," and then
collapsed again on the top of the others. Neither Kachi
nor the others gave any sign of life, and when I spoke to
them I discovered that they were in a state of hopeless
intoxication, arm-in-arm as they had fallen and slept.
By the side of Kachi was Dola, his uncle, supposed to
be employed by me in the quadruple capacity of inter-
126
PROCESS UNDER DIFFICULTIES
preter, carrier, Kachi's valet, and cook, in which latter art,
after Shoka fashion, he was quite an adept, his fame hav-
ing spread all over Bias. He was, therefore, a treasure
not lightly to be abandoned, and yet, now that I wanted
to act quickly and decisively, I had to weigh whether I
should proceed with two of the most important characters
in my play disabled. Should I, hampered by these semi-
corpses, be able to pass unseen the watchful Tibetan
guard at the Chongur bridge, only a few hundred yards
farther on ? I decided to try. Seizing one on each side
under their armpits, I supported them and kept them
erect. It was no easy job, and, I felt our speed increase
at every step as I moved with my staggering mates down
the steep and slippery track. We reached the bottom of
the hill at a breakneck rate, and as the track was narrow
along the water's edge, it was a wonder that we did not
all three of us land in the river. As it was, in coming sud-
denly to a stop, my two men utterly collapsed again, and
I was so exhausted that I had to sit down and rest.
Kachi Ram had a lucid interval. He gazed round and
saw me for the first time that night.
" Sahib, I am drunk !" he exclaimed, with long pauses
between each word.
" That is quite true," said I.
"We Shokas have this bad habit," he continued. " I
had to drink cliokti with all my relations and friends
prior to leaving for this long journey. They would have
been offended if I had not divided with each a cup of
wine. I now see everything go round. Please put my
head into cold water. Oh ! the moon is jumping about,
and is now under my feet !"
I complied with his request, and gave both his head
and Dola's a good ducking in the freezing Kali River.
This had the unfortunate effect of sending them to
127
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
sleep so soundly that I thought they would never wake
again. Some of the sober Shokas offered to carry the
two helpless men on their backs. We were wasting val-
uable time, and the sky was getting clouded. When the
moon had disappeared behind the high mountain, I went
ahead to reconnoitre. All was darkness but for the
glimmer of a brilliant star here and there in the sky. I
THE CHONGUR BRIDGE PREVIOUS TO BEING DESTROYED
crawled to the bridge and listened. Not a sound, not a
light on the opposite bank. All was silence that dead
silence of nature and human life asleep. I stopped on
the bridge. This structure spans the river, a huge
bowlder in the centre of the stream serving as a pillar,
and forms, in fact, two separate bridges joined on the op-
posite sides of this central bowlder. I walked cautiously
across the first portion, stood to listen again on the rock
128
RETURN TO GARBYANG
dividing the foaming waters, and tried to penetrate the
obscurity. There was not a soul to be seen nor a sound
to be heard. I went over the rock and proceeded tow-
ards the second half of the bridge, when I found to my
horror that this second half of the bridge had been cut
down. The entire section had collapsed, and with the
exception of a long beam still swinging to and fro with
one end in the turbid stream, and a plank or two, the
whole material had been washed away.
I returned to mv men.
J
" We must continue our way on this side of the river,"
I whispered to them. " The Tibetans have destroyed the
bridge."
" The track is traced," they replied, " but it is impassa-
ble at night."
" Never mind ; we must go. Come." And I headed
the silent procession.
We went about a mile. Yet another dilemma. Kachi
and Dola were still fast asleep. The others, tired and
worn out with the fatigue of carrying them, wished to
turn back. The sky was now clouded all over and rain
was coming on.
I felt that it was useless to persist. Having seen the
two drunken creatures laid flat under a shed and well
covered with blankets, I therefore returned to Garbyang,
with the intention of making a fresh start shortly before
sunrise, when the drunkards would probably be fit to
walk by themselves, and found shelter under the ever-
hospitable roof of Dr. Wilson.
129
CHAPTER XIX
A DANGEROUS TRACK PERILOUS PASSAGE A CURIOUS BRIDGE OVER
A PRECIPICE PATHETIC SHOKA CUSTOM SMALL MISADVENTURES
A GRAND RECEPTION TEA FOR ALL TASTES
AT 4 A.M., before the sun rose, I made a fresh and
hurried start. I proceeded quickly to the spot where I
had left the two drunken men. They had gone ahead.
Indeed, the track was a bad and dangerous one, over
hanging precipices, and hardly wide enough to give
standing room upon it. We came to a spot where the
narrow path stopped. There was before us a perpendic-
ular rock descending straight as a wall to the Kali River.
The corrosive action of dripping water and melting
snow, of which last there seemed to be a thick layer
higher above on the summit of the cliff, had worn the
face of the rock quite smooth. The distance across this
vertical, wall-like ravine was not more than forty or fifty
feet. On the other side of it the narrow track began
again.
Owing to this and other dangerous places, this route
is but very seldom used by the natives or by any one
else. The road generally taken is on the opposite side
of the Kali River, in Nepal territory. Nevertheless, a
few Shokas possess bits of land on this bank of the
stream, and it was by them that, in order to surmount
the obstacle before which I now stood, the following ex-
pedient was devised in former years.
By letting down a man from above with ropes they
130
A PERILOUS PASSAGE
A DANGEROUS PASSAGE
succeeded in making two rows of small hollows in the
rock, along two parallel horizontal lines, the higher of
which was about six feet or so above the lower. The
holes were dug at intervals of three or four feet along
each line, the upper ones to be caught on by one's
hands, the lower ones to support one's feet, and none of
the cavities are deeper than a few inches.
The transit seemed dangerous at any time, and impos-
sible just then, because the drizzling rain which had set
in had wet the rock and made it as slippery as glass,,
but I realized that the thing had to be risked, and at any-
cost. With an affected air of assurance I therefore took
off my boots and went ahead.
I could not look about me, for I clung with my body
to the wall, feeling my way with my toes and fingers.
The cavities were, as a matter of fact, so shallow that
progress was slow and troublesome. When the toes of
the right foot seemed firmly planted in a receptacle, the
right arm was made to slide along the rock until the
fingers had obtained a firm grip in the cavity directly
above the one in which the toes were. Then the entire
body had to be shifted from left to right, bringing the
left foot and hand close to the right extremities and sus-
pending one's weight on the former, so as to render the
right foot and arm ready to make the next move forward,
and so on, till I reached the other side and alighted upon
the narrow track, which was itself only five or six inches
wide. Chanden Sing, having tied his shoes and mine
over his shoulders, proceeded barefooted on the same
hazardous enterprise. With none of the excitement of
personal danger, the moments of apprehension while
he groped his way with toes and fingers, half par-
alyzed with cold and fear, were to me worse even than
those of my own passage. But he, too, got across safe
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
and sound, and after that the rest was comparatively
easy.
It was necessary now to look out for signs of the two
men, Kachi and Dola, who had preceded us. I was glad
to find a little farther on fresh footmarks, undoubtedly
those of the two Shokas. The track still ascended and
descended nearly all along precipitous cliffs, and was
everywhere dangerously narrow, with here and there bits
on shaky crow-bars. At one spot the rugged formation
of the cliff forced one suddenly to ascend to its very top
and cross (on all-fours) a rude kind of bridge made of
branches of trees spanned, not horizontally, but at an
angle of sixty degrees over a precipice of several hundred
feet. I found a white thread of wool laid over this prim-
itive structure, in accordance with the custom of the
Shokas at the death of relatives or friends away from
their native village. The soul is supposed to migrate
during the dark hours of the night and to return to the
birthplace of the deceased, these white threads showing
the way at dangerous places on the road.
Having lost the track more than once, we found our-
selves down at the edge of the Kali and compelled to
climb up some three hundred feet over sand and rolling
stones to regain the path.
We arrived at last at Nabi. There I found my loads
safe and sound, having got there by the better track on
the Nepalese side previously to the Chongur bridge be-
ing destroyed by the Tibetans ; also Kachi and Dola, who
had got over and recovered from their drink. To make
up, perhaps, for their past misbehavior, and probably to
make me overlook or forget it, they seemed to have in-
duced the natives to welcome me with particular cordial-
ity. I was invited by them, with much show of hospital-
ity, to spend the night in the village.
132
HOSPITABLE NATIVES
I was led with some ceremony to a primitive sort of
ladder with very roughly carved steps, and shoved, with
help from above and below, on to a flat mud roof. Here
a tent had been pitched, the floor of which was covered
with mats and rugs for me to rest on. I no sooner laid
myself down than a string of men, women, and children
arrived, carrying bowls with a particularly sumptuous
meal of rice, dhal, meat, Balab (or boiled buckwheat
leaves), curd, milk, broiled corn with sugar, chapatis, shale,
sweets, native wine and liquor.
During the meal, tea was served in all sorts of fashions.
There was Chinese tea and Indian tea, tea boiled with
sugar and tea without it, tea with milk, and tea with
butter and salt in it, pale tea and dark tea, sweet tea and
bitter tea in fact, tea until I, devoted as I am to it,
wished that no tea-leaf had ever been picked and stewed
in boiling water.
CHAPTER XX
DR. WILSON JOINS AIY EXPEDITION FOR A FEW MARCHES WHAT MIS-
DEEDS A PHOTOGRAPHIC CAMERA CAN DO WEIGHING, DIVIDING, AND
PACKING PROVISIONS TWO EXTRA MEN WANTED THE LAST FRIEND-
LY FACES
I WAS examining a young woman who had badly in-
jured and partly fractured a central vertebra of the spine,
when Dr. Wilson turned up and gave the poor wretch the
little relief possible in her condition, for which she had
hoped in vain from me. He was welcome to me for many
reasons besides the pleasure of being in his company.
He had offered to join my expedition for a few marches
into Tibet, and I was glad indeed to have him with me.
We pushed on as soon as possible over the road between
Nabi and Kuti, which I have already described. Our
journey was quite uneventful, and the snow-bridges and
snow-fields, so troublesome when I had first taken this
road, had melted and altogether disappeared. Even at
Nabi little happened. But I must just mention the fol-
lowing incident as illustrative of the curious suspicion and
dislike I found everywhere of the photographic apparatus
I carried with me.
I was on the point of leaving the place when a hand,
some Tibetan woman, whom I had not previously noticed,
accosted me with hysterical sobs inarticulate, but con-
veying a very clear impression of suffering.
" You have killed my child, and now you will kill my
husband," she complained, when she was able to talk ; and
I then discovered that I had on my previous visit to Nabi
134
MY CAMERA'S RESPONSIBILITIES
taken a snap-shot at a child perched on the top of a very
heavy load that happened to be carried on the woman's
back through my camp, and that when she complained I
had appeased her, in the usual way, with a coin. She had
conveyed her load to Kuti, and had slipped, on her way
back with her child, at a spot not far from where I had
had my slide, but, less fortunate than myself, had rolled
THE PHOTOGRAPH THAT CAUSED THE CHILD S DEATH
right into the foaming stream. She managed to cling to
the rock and was eventually saved, but the infant was
washed from rock to rock by the current, and disappeared
under a snow tunnel.
" Oh, sahib !" cried the woman, " if you had not before
we started looked at us through the eyes (the twin lenses)
of your black box (the photographic camera), I should not
have lost my baby."
" And how about your husband ?"
" Oh, you will kill him too."
135
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
" But I don't know your husband. Anyhow, I promise
not to look at him with these eyes."
" It is not that, sahib, but he is going with you to
Tibet. He is carrying one of your loads. You will all
be killed."
She pointed him out to me one of the strongest
among the men I had, and the most anxious to accom-
pany me. He was too good to lose, and I was certainly
unwilling to renounce my claim to him on account of his
good woman's tears. So I consoled her as best I could ;
promised to take good care of him, and under no circum-
stances to photograph him.
At Kuti, Dr. Wilson and I were busy for several hours
weighing, dividing, and packing in equal loads the pro-
visions I had purchased fourteen immds in all (ii2olbs.)
of flour, rice, red sugar (g/iur), salt, red pepper (32 Ibs.),
Dhal, miseri (lump sugar), ghi (butter), and a large quan-
tity of satoo (oatmeal), and broiled corn. There were, in
addition, the preserved and tinned provisions which I had
brought with me from London.
To give my carriers no cause for complaint, I allowed
them to choose their own shoes, blankets, etc., and I did
all in my power to humor them, because the loads threat-
ened to be excessively heavy. In fact, I found that, even
after dispensing with everything but what was absolutely
essential, there was still ample to carry for at least two
strong men. Every available Shoka had joined the party,
and no inducement that I could offer brought me more
volunteers. I was very unwilling to delay, and I was on
the point of subdividing among the men I already had
the two extra loads, when two stray shepherds turned up,
half-famished and naked, with long, unkempt heads of
hair, and only a coral necklace and a silver bangle by way
of clothing. I quickly secured them, and although one was
136
READY TO START
really only a boy, I decided to trust to luck and take Dr.
Wilson's assurance that he looked tough enough and
would be useful.
This brought my little force up to thirty strong, and
now I was ready to start.
CHAPTER XXI
THE KUTI CASTLE UNDER WAY OUR FIRST DISASTER A CHEERFUL
AND A SULKY COOLIE MANSING A BRIGAND A STRANGE MEDLEY
OF FOLLOWERS A CHARACTER TAILORING FIELDS OF STONES
TROUBLESOME RIVERS THE JOLINKAN OR LEBUNG PASS SENSE OF
HUMOR PLEASED WITH SMALL COMFORTS
BEFORE leaving Kuti, I went to see the curious and an-
cient castle perched on a small hill about three hundred
yards south of the village. It is now in ruins, with the
exception of a quadrangular tower called by the natives
the Kuti Ker, but the foundations of the whole structure
PLAN OF KUTI CASTLE
I. Piles of stones. 2. Steps. 3. Outer wall. 4. Tower. 5. Blacksmith's house.
6. Windows.
can still be plainly seen. I made a plan, which is here repro-
duced, as it may be of archaeological interest. The natives
could give me no information regarding it, except that it
was once a king's palace strongly fortified. A small house
of several rooms by the side of the tower is said to have
been the blacksmith's shop in which the arrow-heads and
138
A CATASTROPHE
swords for the king's soldiers were made. The tower is
four yards square at its base, and built of stone. Judging
by its shape and construction, and the curious windows,
I am inclined to attribute this castle to Tibetan workman-
ship, for identical towers are seen in Tibet, even atTakla-
kot. The windows, or rather slits, on each floor of the
tower were six inches square ; those in the blacksmith's
house were considerably larger. There were outer walls
for the defence of the fort at places where the castle
would have been most accessible. Quantities of stones
piled up in heaps probably served as ammunition for the
defenders of the fortress in centuries gone by.
When I returned to camp all was ready, and after end-
less trouble with some of my men, who were already un-
certain as to whether they would accompany me on my
journey or not, I eventually got under way in the after-
noon. The Kuti village is the highest in Bias, being sit-
uated at an elevation of 12,920 feet.
The track was now comparatively free from snow and
ice except here and there, where we had to cross exten-
sive slopes covered with snow. On one of these we had
our first disaster. A coolie fell who carried in his hand
a large pot containing butter. He fortunately did not
slide far down, but we had the bitter disappointment
of seeing our precious pot roll into the water and dis-
appear forever. We camped at an elevation of 13,050
feet. Late in the evening, as my men were collecting
wood to keep up a huge fire round which we sat, my two
coolies, who had remained at Kuti with instructions to
follow, arrived with their respective loads. They were
two strange characters. The one with a coral necklace
was mournful and sulky, the other lively and talkative.
They professed to be by caste Rajiputs.
" You see," exclaimed the cheerful coolie, " I am small,
L L 139
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
but I fear nothing. When we cross into Tibet I shall go
ahead with a pointed stick and clear all the Tibetans away.
I am not afraid of them. I am ready to fight the whole
world."
Knowing the value of this sort of talk on the part of
natives, I shut him up and sent him 'away to fetch wood.
MANSING, THE LEPER, SHOWING HIS HANDS
The sulky fellow interested me more. He seldom uttered
a word, and when he did he never spoke pleasantly ; he
was apparently immersed in deep thought, from which it
seemed a great effort to draw his mind away. He looked
painfully ill. Motionless and speechless, he would stare
at a fixed point as if in a trance. His features were pe-
culiarly refined and regular, but his skin had that ghastly,
shiny, whitish tinge so peculiar to lepers. I waited for an
opportunity to examine his hands, on which he sat to keep
140
MANSING AND THE BRIGAND
them warm. It is there, in the contracted or dropping-off
fingers, that one finds the first certain symptoms of that
most terrible of all diseases, leprosy. I asked the man
to come and sit nearer the blazing fire. He came and
stretched out his open palms towards the flickering flame.
Alas! my suspicions were but too correct. His fingers,
distorted and contracted, with the skin sore at the joints,
were sad and certain proof. I examined his feet and
found the same symptoms there also.
" What is your name ?" I inquired of him.
" Mansing," he said, dryly, becoming immediately again
absorbed in one of his reveries.
The crackling fire was dying down when a stalwart
Tibetan suddenly appeared, bent low under the heavy
weight of a huge tree-trunk he was carrying on his back.
He approached and threw the wood on the fire.
Here was another character! As strong as an ox, this
servant of mine had queer antecedents. He was at one
time a well-known bandit in the neighborhood of Lhassa.
He was said to have taken many lives, and, finding his
own in danger in his country, had come to settle on our
side of the border, marrying different wives, whom he
constantly beat and in turn banished from under his roof.
It was owing to his latest family squabble that he came
into my employ ; his abnormal strength, valuable for carry-
ing loads, was to me his only recommendation. In camp
he went by the name of Daku, " the brigand."
In looking round to inspect my other followers, with
whom I had hardly yet got acquainted, I was amused and
interested at the strange medley of creatures forming my
band. There were Humlis and Jumlis, with their luxuri-
ant black hair tied into small tresses and a topknot over
the head, like the Coreans. There were Tibetans, Shokas
of Bias, Rongbas, Nepalese, Rajiputs, and Totolas, also
141
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
a Brahmin, two native Christians, and a Johari. Then
Dr. Wilson. What a collection ! What a chaos of lan-
guages and dialects !
An amusing feature of this odd crowd was that each
particular caste looked down upon all the others. This
from the very beginning occasioned separation during
meal-time, and the camp was lively with as many burning
fires in as many sheltered spots as there were castes of
men following me. I was glad of this, as it seemed a sort
of guarantee that they would never all join together to
conspire against me.
Poor Mansing, the leper, was shivering with cold. He
had been unable to purchase himself a blanket and shoes
at Kuti. He had spent the money on tobacco instead.
Dr. Wilson and I took pity upon him. The long evening
was still before us, so I got out the cloth I had pur-
chased at Kuti, and with scissors and needle we began to
cut and sew a new set of garments for the poor wretch.
The Doctor did the cutting and I the sewing. I cannot
boast that a professional tailor would not have turned out
a better fit, but for all general purposes the newly made
clothes answered well enough. There was only one incon-
venience in the single-breasted jacket. I had no buttons,
and was therefore compelled to sew the coat on the man
himself. It thus remained a fixture, and not only looked
all right, but which was our chief object kept him warm.
We left camp at 5.30 the following morning. High
mountains rose on either side of us, and we followed the
Kuti River flowing here from west to east. At an eleva-
tion of 13,980 feet we crossed the Bitroguare River. On
the other side of the Kuti River were high perpendicular
cliffs of a vividly red-colored rock with blue horizontal
stratifications, and towering over them a succession of
very pointed peaks.
142
A BAD CROSSING
The action of ice on the rock was noticeable every-
where. As we went farther we came upon extensive fields
of stones and bowlders brought down from the higher
peaks by the ice, and in some places we found actual mo-
raines. To our left stood a gigantic wall of stone like a
natural impregnable fortress. Travelling in a direction
of 320 (b. m.), and at elevations of. 13,90x3 feet, 14,200 feet,
14,300 feet, we waded through three tributaries of the Kuti;
then we came to a foaming, rapid, and deep river, which we
had great difficulty in crossing. It was getting towards
the middle of the day, and the stream, fed by the snows
melting under the hot sun, was rising from moment to
moment. Two of my coolies, whom I first sent in, reached
the middle, where the water came up to their chins. They
lost their footing and were temporarily helpless, and in
some danger of being swamped, the loads which they car-
ried on their heads being partly spoiled when we suc-
ceeded in recovering them. The other men got fright-
ened by the time they were ready to cross. The river
had risen so high that it was impossible to get to the
other side except by swimming, and this was out of the
question, on account of the loads. We therefore had to
follow the stream upward for about a mile, when fortu-
nately we found a somewhat dangerous yet passable
snow bridge, over which the remainder of my men and
goods effected a crossing in safety. We returned to our
course on the Kuti, still passing between high, rugged
mountains along an undulating plain averaging about 400
yards wide. Though at comparatively high elevations,
there were large patches of brightly colored flowers red,
violet, white, and vivid yellow which gave to the land-
scape a picturesque and constantly changing effect.
On reaching a small pass, 14,750 feet, the path branched
to Darma by the Jolinkan towards bearings 260, and over
H3
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
the Lebung Pass. It is really only a goat track, exceed-
ingly difficult and fatiguing, except in the month of
August, when there is only a small quantity of snow, and
it leads to the Dholi River about half a mile south of
Khumling.
The Jolinkan River, rising from the snow-field to the
east of the Lebung or Jolinkan Pass, had now to be
THE JOLINKAN OR LEBUNG PASS
crossed. The stalwart dacoit, ever ready to make himself
useful, conveyed his load across, and, lifting me like a
feather on to his back, saved me from plunging higher
than my waist into the bitterly cold water, whereas he
was covered up to his neck. The course of the Kuti
turns now to 330 (b. m.). Going up and down small
barren hills, round the foot of high mountains, we at-
tained an altitude of 15,000 feet. Here, to the left of the
track, and eighty feet above it, is a small and beautiful
144
SOAKED AND FROZEN
lake, 500 yards long and 400 wide. Its waters, in which
the high snowy peaks round it are reflected as in a silver
mirror, find an outlet in a short but most precipitous
river flowing with tremendous force into the Kuti. Soon
after leaving this lake we came upon another small sheet
of water, near which were thirteen peculiar piles or
columns of stones, each one having been erected by the
first Tibetan or Shoka who crossed the pass during the
summer. A similar erection could also be seen perched
on a large rock jutting out from the water of the larger
lake. Though the sun was fast going down behind the
mountains to the west, we pressed on, trying to make as
much headway as we could towards the perpetual snows.
We still travelled over undulating ground, and the march-
ing was not heavy or difficult, save for the freezingly cold
and very rapid streams we had to wade through. It was
all we could do to get warm again after having been im-
mersed in one, and before we had ce*ased shivering we
had to wade through the next, and yet the next, so that
one's chilliness increased, and the constant discomfort of
cold became very trying. Much discontent prevailed
among my carriers over the very long march, as their feet
were numbed with cold. They nearly mutinied when I
would not let them stop at a camp they had selected, but
ordered them to proceed farther. A mile and a half from
the point they had favored, we overlooked a large, flat
basin of stones and gravel, about half a mile wide and
three-quarters of a mile long, which had the appearance
of having formerlv been a lake. It was surrounded by
O J *
high snowy peaks, and its bed lay at an altitude of 15,400
feet. It seemed as if the immense quantity of stones and
pebbles carried by the river feeding it had raised its
bed until it had caused the water to flow into the Kuti.
When I saw it, the river formed an extensive delta
145
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
with as many as twelve arms, joining again within the
basin into one single stream before throwing itself into
the Kuti. Naturally we selected the wider expanse of
water to ford, assuming that it would be shallower than
the narrow ones. Once more that day I took off my
lower garments and entered the cold water. It came
direct from the snows, and its temperature was slightly
above freezing-point. The sun had gone down, and there
was a piercing wind. My feet, as I went in and out of
the numerous branches of the stream, became so cold
that I could hardly stand for the stinging pain; moreover,
treading on sharp-edged stones under the water and
knocking my frozen toes against them was at first very
painful, but after a time they got so frozen that, though
at each step the soles of my feet and toes were cut and
bruised, I suffered no actual pain until after crossing five
or six arms of the delta. Unable to balance myself any
longer, I struggled as best I could out of the water and
rubbed my feet violently, until slowly, and with intense
pain, they came back to life.
It is curious how a little sense of humor helps on such
occasions. To an onlooker not suffering as we were, the
sight of our party crossing that dreadful delta would have
been curious. The expression of disgust on all my men's
faces, not to speak of my own, could not but have caused
merriment. We carried our foot-gear on our shoulders;
we struggled, stumbled, and splashed in the greenish
water, and now one, then another, fell helpless through
frost-bite on some island or other, until we were all dis-
abled, and still only half-way through. In spite of our
condition, worn out as we were, the soles and sides of
our feet badly cut and bleeding, my men, so sulky at
having been firmly balked in their wishes, became quite
good - natured and amusing when I chaffed them over
146
WELL-EARNED COMFORT
their present troubles, and they saw that I was in the
same plight. After endless rubbing, we restored a certain
amount of circulation to our lower limbs, and proceeded
to cross the next six arms of the delta. When, after an
hour or longer of suffering, we were at last able to put on
our foot-gear, we felt the happiness which comes from the
knowledge of difficulties overcome. Never can I forget
the great joy arising from what may seem a small com-
fort a warm pair of socks ! As I write these lines I live
over again the particular pleasure of gently drawing
them on, and it is impressed forever on my mind as a
fitting reward for the hardships I had put up with.
We pitched our tents in a sheltered narrow valley to
the northwest of the large basin. Altitude, 15,400 feet.
Thermometer minimum, 24; maximum, 51.
CHAPTER XXII
WANT OF FffEL COOKING UNDER DIFFICULTY MANSING LOST AND
FOUND SAVED FROM SUMMARY JUSTICE TIBETAN VISITORS WE
PURCHASE SHEEP THE SNOW-LINE COLD STREAMS THE PETRIFIED
CHAP ATI AND HUMAN HAND
ONE of the main drawbacks of travelling at these great
altitudes was the want of vegetable fuel. There was not
a tree, not a shrub to be seen near our camp. Nature
* V *
wore her most desolate and barren look. Failing wood,
my men dispersed to collect and bring in the dry dung of
yak, pony, and sheep to serve as fuel. Kindling this was
no easy matter; box after box of matches was quickly
used, and our collective lung power severely drawn upon
in fanning the unwilling sparks into a flame only a few
inches high. Upon this meagre fire we attempted to
cook our food and boil our water (a trying process at
such an altitude), keeping our own circulation fairly
normal by constantly required efforts. The cuisine that
night was not of the usual excellence, and did but lit-
tle credit to the cook. We had to eat everything half
cooked, or, to be accurate, almost altogether uncooked.
The night was a bitterly cold one, with a heavy fall of
snow. When we rose in the morning it lay quite two
feet deep around us, and the glare was painful to the
eyes. I mustered my men. Mansing was missing. He
had not arrived the previous night, and there was no
sign of the man I had sent in search of him. I was anx-
ious not only from my personal interest in his load (the
fellow carried a load of flour, salt, pepper, and five pounds
148
CAMPING IN SNOW
MANSING LOST AND FOUND
of butter), but I was afraid that the poor leper might him-
self have been washed away in one of the dangerous
streams. Even if this fear were groundless, he must, I
felt, have suffered terribly from the cold, with no shelter
and no fire. Bijesing, who had gone in search of him, had
eaten some food before starting, and had taken blankets
with him in case he could not return to camp during the
night.
It was long after sunrise when, with the aid of my tele-
scope, I discovered the two men coming towards us. They
arrived an hour or so later. Mansing had been found
sound asleep, several miles back, lying by the side of the
empty butter-pot, the contents of which he had devoured.
The discovery of this misdeed caused the greatest indigna-
tion in camp, for fatty matter and butter were much cher-
ished by the natives, as being warmth-producing, when
going over these cold passes. He was nearly the victim
of summary justice at the hands of my angry men, and it
was only with trouble that I rescued him from their
clutches. To prevent a recurrence of the offence, I ordered
the culprit to carry in future a heavy load of photographic
plates and instruments, which I thought would not prove
quite so appetizing.
Before starting I took my usual bath in the cold stream
and rubbed myself all over with snow. I found this very
invigorating, and when the reaction came I experienced
a delightful glow of warmth, notwithstanding the thin
clothes I was wearing.
While we were camping, a flock of some six hundred
sheep appeared, and with them some Tibetans. As I
had put up my Tibetan tent, they made for it, expecting
to find some of their own countrymen, and their embar-
rassment was amusing when they found themselves face
to face with Dr. Wilson and myself. Hurriedly removing.
149
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
their fur caps, they laid them upon the ground and made
a comical jerky courtesy, as if their heads and knees moved
by means of a spring. They put out their tongues full
length and kept them so until I made signs that they
could draw them back, as I wanted them to answer some
questions. This unexpected meeting with us frightened
them greatly ; they were trembling all over with fear, and
after getting as much information out of them as they
seemed to possess I took advantage of the opportunity
to buy some of their fattest sheep. When the money was
paid there was a further display of furred tongues, and
more grand salaams ere they departed, while all hands On
our side were busy trying to prevent our newly purchased
animals from rejoining the flock moving away from us.
On our next march these animals proved a great trouble,
and we had to drag them the greater part of the way.
Kachi, who had been intrusted with a very recalcitrant
and strong beast, which I had specially promised my men
for their dinner if they made a long march that day, found
himself discomfited when he saw that the sheep had freed
its head from the cord with which he was dragging it, and
was cantering away full speed in the opposite direction.
Now it is well known that at considerable altitudes run-
ning is a very painful operation for human beings, the
rarefied air making the effect of such exertion almost suf-
focating. Yet Kachi, having overcome his first surprise,
was soon chasing the escaped beast, and, urged by the
cheers and shouts of my other men, who seemed much
concerned over this new calamity, he succeeded, after an
exciting chase, in capturing it by its tail, a feat easier to
describe than to accomplish, for Tibetan sheep have very
short, stumpy tails. Kachi fell to the ground exhaust-
ed, but he held fast with both hands to his capture, and
eventually the animal was secured with ropes. This was
150
THE SNOW-LINE
the sort of minor trouble with which we had to contend
at almost every turn during our journey, and, although
it may appear trivial, it was exasperating enough at the
time.
On fairly undulating ground we gradually rose to a pass
15,580 feet high ; then traversing a wide, flat land, we fol-
lowed the Kuti River with its high snowy mountains to
the west and east. The snow-line was at 16,000 feet;
THE SNOW-LINE AT l6,OOO FEET
the snow below this level melts daily, except in a few
shaded places. Red and white flowers were still to be
seen, though not in such quantities as lower down, and
I saw enamoured couples of small black and white but-
terflies.*
* N.B. This same kind of butterfly I found at even greater elevations
in Tibet.
I. M I5 1
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
After a while there was yet another bitterly cold stream
to ford, two small lakes to skirt, three more deep rivers
to wade, with cold water from the snows up to our chests ;
and then we had to make the best way we could through a
lar^e field of rocks and stones showing strong indications
O O O
of iron, my compasses being at once affected, and becom-
ing for a time quite unreliable owing to the deviation. A
curious flat, circular stone, resting on the top of others,
was pointed out to me as a wonder ; the accepted legend
of the Shokas being that, centuries ago, one of their coun-
trymen halted by the side of this rock, and having baked
a chapati, laid it upon the rock, proceeding to make
others, when to his great astonishment, on raising his
hand to take his first chapati, he found it had turned
into solid stone, and had furthermore assumed a;icrantic
O O
proportions. A few feet farther on I was pointed out an-
other wonder, a great human hand (as the Tibetans and
Shokas call it), which is supposed to have belonged to
the maker of the chapati. Not being satisfied with his
first experience, he laid his hand on the rock, and there
it remained, petrified, and, in this case also, increas-
ing tenfold in size. I could see, with some stretch of
the imagination, a certain resemblance to an enormous
human hand, but the thing required more faith than
observation.
Mile after mile we marched over sharp stones, wading
through a second troublesome delta of eight arms fully a
mile in width, across a flat basin of pointed pebbles and
stones, until at last, to our great comfort, we came to
smooth grass-land, a soothing comfort to one's torn feet.
Here the Kuti River ran through a large basin, not
dissimilar to the one near which we had camped the night
before, having also the appearance of lake formation, with
high perpendicular rocks on the left, which gave one the
152
THE LAST OBSTACLE
impression of a vast wall a rugged and forbidding
barrier. Proceeding northwest the basin became wider
and the Kuti River turned to the northwest, while the
Mangshan River, descending from the east, joined the
first stream in the centre of the basin. In crossing the
numerous branches of the two rivers we again expe-
rienced, with almost accentuated discomfort, the trials and
weariness of the preceding day. The water was colder
than ever, our feet were by this time in a dreadful condi-
tion, cut and bleeding, because it was constantly necessary
to walk barefooted. Aching and benumbed, we stumbled
on, in and out of water, always, it seemed, encountering
sharp small stones. For us there could be no turning
back, however; the pain had to be borne before the march
was finished, and we won our camping-ground at last un-
der the lee of the high chain of mountains to the north
of us and on the northern bank of the Mangshan River.
Directly in front stood the final obstacle, the stupendous
backbone of the Himahlyas ; once past this I should be
on that high Tibetan plateau so accurately and pictu-
resquely called " the roof of the world."
CHAPTER XXIII
THE SCOUTS RETURN A SMALL EXPLORING PARTY THE MANGSHAN
GLACIER
FROM Kuti I had despatched a sturdy Shoka, named
Nattoo, to ascertain whether it was possible to cross the
chain over the high Mangshan Pass, as in this case I
should be enabled to get many marches into Tibet by the
jungle without fear of being detected. I should thus get
behind the force of soldiers which I was informed the
Jong Pen of Taklakot had concentrated at the Lippu Pass
to prevent my entering the country, and before they could
have time to discover my whereabouts I should be too far
ahead for them to find me. Nattoo arrived in camp al-
most simultaneously with ourselves and had a long tale of
woe to relate. He had been half-way up the mountain.
The snow was deep, and there were huge and treacherous
cracks in the ice. As he was on his way up, an avalanche
had fallen, and it was merely by the skin of his teeth that
he had escaped with his life. This was to him an evil
omen, and he had turned back without reaching the sum-
mit of the pass. He seemed scared and worn out, and
declared that it was impossible for us to proceed that way.
Unfortunately the thrilling account of the Kutial's mis-
fortunes had a depressing effect on my men. What with
the intense cold, the fatigue of carrying heavy loads at
high elevations over such rough country, and the fearful
rivers which they dreaded, and so many of which we had
crossed, my carriers became absolutely demoralized at the
THE MANGSHAN GLACIER
CAMPING AT 16,150 FEET
thought of new hardships ahead, all the more when I as-
sured them that I did not believe Nattoo, and that 1 should
go and see for myself.
It was 4.30 in the afternoon, and therefore some time
before sunset. There would be moonlight. I had on
o
that day marched eight miles,* and though the soles of
my feet were cut and sore I was not really tired. Our
camp was at an elevation of 1 6, 1 50 feet, a pretty respect-
able altitude, considering that the highest mountain in
Europe is only 15,781 feet. Dr. Wilson insisted on ac-
companying me to the top, and Kachi Ram and a Rongba
coolie volunteered to come as well. Bijesing, the Johari,
got on his feet after some persuasion, and that completed
our little exploration party. Chanden Sing, who was really
the only man I could trust, was left in charge of the camp,
with strict orders to punish severely any one who might
attempt to turn back during my absence.
We set out almost immediately after reaching camp,
following up-stream the course of the Mangshan River,
which is boxed in between high cliffs, those south of it
running in a direction of 100 (b. m.), those to the north
converging to 130, the two ranges eventually meeting in
the glacier at the foot of Mangshan, about three miles
east-east-southeast of our camp. There was no track,
and the walking was extremely difficult and troublesome,
over large slippery stones, between which one's feet con-
stantly slipped and got jammed, straining and injuring
.one's ankles. Little trusting my followers, who seemed on
the verge of mutiny, I did not care to leave behind in camp
the heavy load of silver rupees (R. 800) sewn in my coat
which, by-the-way, I always carried on my person as well
* It must be remembered that at high elevations the exertion of walking
eight miles would be equivalent to that of marching about twice the dis-
tance at much lower altitudes.
155
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
as my rifle, two compasses (prismatic and luminous), two
aneroids, one half-chronometer and another watch, and
some thirty cartridges. The combined weight of these
articles was considerable,* and I felt it especially during
the first days of my march. On this particular afternoon
it was almost too much for my strength. However, one
gets accustomed to most things, and after a while I felt
comparatively little discomfort in marching under it. I
persisted in thus weighting myself simply to be on the safe
side, so as to be always prepared in case my men revolted
or abandoned me.
We proceeded up and down the series of hillocks, and
in and out of the innumerable channels that the melting
snow and ice had, with the aid of centuries, cut deep into
the mass of rolling stones. At the point where the two
ranges met there stood before us the magnificent pale-
green ice-terraces of the Mangshan glacier, surmounted
by extensive snow-fields winding their way to the summit
of the mountain range. Clouds enveloped the higher
peaks. The clear Alpine ice showed vertical streaks,
especially in the lower part of the glacier, where it was
granulated to a certain extent. The base, the sides, and
top being covered with a thick coat of fresh snow, and my
time being very limited, I was unable to make careful in-
vestigations to ascertain the recent movement and oscil-
lations of this glacier. Judging by the nature of the stony
tracts we had passed over, and also by the mounds, similar
to those of a terminal moraine, which increased as we ap-
proached the glacier and its snow-covered fringe, I con-
cluded that the glacier must have retreated considerably.
The rocks and stones, as I have already mentioned, were
shiny and slippery, which I attributed to the friction of
* See Appendix. Letter by Dr. H. Wilson.
I 5 6
NATURAL RESERVOIRS
the ice, and where the ice had extended over gravel this
was greatly disturbed and scarred by innumerable chan-
nels, due, no doubt, to the mighty force of the moving
ice, besides the constant action of melting snows during
the summer. The slopes of the mountains on the north
showed no indication of having been disturbed, but the
range on the southern side had all the appearance of hav-
ing been cut and excavated by the ice. Probably the
large basins which I had crossed on my way from Kuti,
and even the last one, facing our camp, were, after all,
reservoirs formed by ancient moraines with alluvial de-
posits.
157
CHAPTER XXIV
SNOW AND TROUBLESOME DEBRIS THE DOCTOR'S SUFFERINGS KACHI
DISABLED FURTHER TRIALS A WEIRD APPARITION DELIRIUM
ALL SAFE THE DESCENT
THE Mangshan River rises from this glacier, but we
left the glacier (17,800 feet) to the right, and, turning
sharply northward, began our ascent towards the pass.
To gaze upon the incline before us was alone sufficient to
deter one from attempting to climb it, had one a choice ;
in addition to this, the snow we struggled over was so soft
oo
and deep that we sank into it up to our waists. Occasion-
ally the snow alternated with patches of loose debris and
rotten rock, on which we were no better off; in fact, the
fatigue of progressing over them was simply overpowering.
Having climbed up half a dozen steps among the loose,
cutting stones, we felt ourselves sliding back to almost
our original point of departure, followed by a small ava-
lanche of shifting material that only stopped when it got
to the foot of the mountain.
At 1 9,000 feet we were for a considerable distance on soft
snow, covering an ice-field with deep crevasses and cracks
in it. We had to feel our way with great caution, partic-
ularly as there was only the light of the moon to depend
upon.
Fortunately, as we rose higher, there were no more
crevasses, but I began to feel a curious exhaustion that I
had never experienced before. At sunset the thermometer
which Kachi carried for me had descended forty degrees
within a few minutes, and the sudden change in the tem-
158
THE DOCTOR AND KACHI DISABLED
perature seemed to affect us all more or less ; but we went
on, with the exception of Bijesing, who was seized with
mountain sickness so violently that he was unable to pro-
ceed. The doctor, too, a man of powerful build, was
suffering considerably. His legs, he said, had become
like lead, and each seemed to weigh a ton. The effort of
lifting, or even moving, them required all his energy. Al-
though he was terribly blown and gasping for breath, yet
he would not give in, and he struggled on bravely until
we reached an altitude of 20,500 feet. Here he was seized
with such exhaustion and pain that he was unable to pro-
ceed. Kachi Ram, the Rongba, and I went ahead, but we
also were suffering, Kachi complaining of violent beating
in his temples and loud buzzing in his ears. He also
gasped and staggered dangerously, threatening to collapse
at any moment. At 21,000 feet he fell flat on the snow.
He was instantly asleep, breathing heavily and snoring
raspingly. His hands and feet were icy cold, and I rubbed
them. But what caused me more anxiety than anything
was the irregular beating and throbbing of his heart. I
wrapped him up in his blanket and my waterproof, and,
having seen to his general comfort, I shouted to the doctor,
telling him what had happened, and that I was going to
push on as much higher as I could stand, the Rongba
being now the only one of the party who was able to
keep up.
A thick mist came on and enveloped us, which con-
siderably added to our trials. Our efforts to get on after
we left Kachi at 21,000 feet were desperate, our lungs in
convulsion as if about to burst, our pulses hastened, our
hearts throbbing (mine being ordinarily very regular) as if
they would beat themselves out of our bodies. Exhausted,
and seized by irresistible drowsiness, the Rongba and I
nevertheless at last reached the top. It was a satisfaction
'59
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
to have got there, to have reached such an altitude, al-
though I had long realized the impossibility of getting my
men over by this way. It served me also to ascertain the
amount of snow on the other side of the range, which, when
the fog lifted somewhat, I found to be greater on the
northern slope than on the southern. Although almost
fainting with fatigue, I registered my observations. The
altitude was 22,000 feet, the hour n P.M., and there was
a strong, cutting northeast wind. I had stupidly forgotten
to take my thermometer out of Kachi's pocket when I
left him, and was unable to register the temperature, but
the cold was intense. The stars were extraordinarily
brilliant and the moon shone bright fora while over the
panorama around me, and, though it was a view of utter
desolation, it had nevertheless a curious, indescribable
fascination. Below me, to the south, were mountainous
masses buried in snow, and to the southwest and north-
east were peaks even higher than the one on which I
stood. To the north stretched the immense, dreary Tib-
etan plateau with undulations and intricate hill ranges,
beyond which a high mountain range with snow-peaks
could just be perceived in the distance. I could see very
little snow near by, except on the northern slope of the
range I was standing on, and on the hill-tops which dotted
the plateau.
I had barely taken it in, barely realized the wonder of
nature asleep, when the mist again rose before me and I
saw a gigantic phantom rising out of.it. It stood in the
centre of a luminous circle, a tall, dark figure in the folds
of an enormous veil of mist. The effect was overwhelm-
ing, and it was only after some moments that 1 realized
that the spectre wore my features, was a liquid presenta-
tion of my own proportions colossally enlarged ; that I
stood in the centre of a lunar rainbow, and that I was
160
OVERCOME IN THE SNOW
gazing on the reflection of myself in the mist. As I moved
my arms, my body, or my head, the ghostlike figure
moved, and I felt myself irresistibly changing my postures
oddly and nervously at first, then with an awakening
sense of the ridiculous in my actions so as to make my
image change and do as I did. I felt like a child placed
for the first time in front of a mirror.
The colored plate given in this book represents a solar
spectre with circular rainbow which I saw later on at a
comparatively low altitude; the lunar effect differed from
this in that the colors of the rainbow were but faintly dis-
tinguishable.
The Rongba had fallen exhausted, and I felt so faint
with the awful pressure on my lungs that, despite all my
efforts to resist it, I collapsed on the snow. The coolie
and I, shivering pitifully, shared the same blanket for
additional warmth. Both of us were seized with irresisti-
ble drowsiness, as if we had taken a strong narcotic. I
fought hard against it, for I well knew that if my eyelids
once closed they would almost certainly remain so for-
ever. I called to the Rongba. He was fast asleep. I
summoned up my last atom of vitality to keep my eyes
open, but the wind blew hard and biting, with a hissing
noise. How that hiss still sounds in my ears! It seemed
like the whisper of death. The Rongba, crouched with
teeth chattering, was moaning, and his sudden shudders
bespoke great pain. It seemed only common charity to
let him have the blanket, which was in any case too small
for both, so I wrapped it tightly round his head and body.
He was doubled up with his chin on his knees. This
small exertion was quite sufficient to make me lose the
tug-of-war in which I was pulling against nature. Just
like the subject who, under hypnotic influence, feels his
own will and power suddenly going from him, so I felt the
161
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
entire hopelessness of further struggle against the super-
natural forces I was contending with. Falling backward
on the snow, I made a last desperate effort to gaze at
the glittering stars . . . my sight became dim and ob-
scured. . . .
For how long this semiconsciousness lasted I do not
know. "God! how ghastly! Doctor! Kachi!" I tried
to articulate. My voice seemed choked in my throat.
Was what I saw before me real ? The two men, as if
frozen to death by the side of each other, seemed lying on
that vast white sheet of snow, motionless as statues of ice.
In my dream I attempted to raise them. They were quite
rigid. I knelt beside them, calling them and frantically
striving to bring them back to consciousness and life.
Bewildered, I turned round to look for Bijesing, and, as I
did so, all sense of vitality seemed to freeze within me. I
saw myself enclosed in a quickly contracting tomb of
transparent ice. It was easy to realize that I too would
shortly be nothing but a solid block of ice, like my com-
panions. My legs, my arms were already congealed. Hor-
ror-stricken as I was at the approach of such a hopeless,
ghastly death, my sensations were accompanied by a lan-
guor and lassitude indescribable but far from unpleasant.
To some extent thought or wonderment was still alive.
Should I dwindle painlessly away, preferring rest and
peace to effort, or should I make a last struggle to save
myself? The ice seemed to close in more and more every
moment. I was choking.
I tried to scream, to force myself through the suffocat-
ing weight on me. I gave a violent plunge, and then
everything had vanished the frozen Kachi, the doctor,
the transparent tomb! Nothingness!
At last I was able to open my eyes, which ached as if
needles had been stuck into them. It was snowing hard.
162
Lithographed fty f. A. BroeUuiut, Ltiptig (Germany/
THE SPECTRE AND CIBCULAB BAIN BOW.
A GHASTLY NIGHTMARE
I had temporarily lost the use of my legs and fingers.
They were frozen. So violent was the shock of realizing
how very near death I had really been that in waking up
from the ghastly nightmare I became acutely alive to the
full importance of instantly making my way down to a
lower level. I was already covered with a layer of snow,
and I suppose it was the frigid pressure on my forehead
"I ROUSED THE RONGBA "
that caused the dream. It is, however, probable that, had
it not been for the hideous vision that shook my nerves
free of paralyzing torpor, I should never have awakened
from that spell-bound silence.
I sat up with difficulty, and, by rubbing and beating
them, slowly regained the use of my lower limbs. I
roused the Rongba, rubbed him, and shook him till he
was able to move. We began our descent.
No doubt the satisfaction of going up high mountains is
very great; but can it be compared to that of coming down ?
163
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
Descending was dangerous, but not wearisome. The
incline being extremely steep, we took gigantic strides on
the snow, and when we came to patches of debris we slid
ten or fifteen feet each step amidst a deafening roar from
the huge mass of loose stones set in motion by our de-
scent.
" Hark!" I said to the Rongba; "what is that?"
We waited till all was silence, and with hands up to
our ears listened attentively. It was still snowing.
"Ao,ao,aof Jaldiao! Tumka hatte?" (Come, come,
come! Come quickly! Where are you?) cried a faint,
distressed voice from far down below.
We quickened our pace ; having hardly any control
over our legs, our descent was precipitous. The snow-
fall ceased and we became enveloped in a thick mist,
which pierced into our very bones.
Guided by the anxious cries of the doctor, whose voice
we recognized, we continued our breakneck journey down-
ward. The cries got more and more distinct, and at last,
to my great joy, we came face to face with Wilson, who,
thank Heaven, was alive but almost helpless, as he said
his legs were still like lead, and it was all he could do to
move them.
Owing to his anxiety about us, he had been shouting
for a long time, and, getting no answer, he became very
uneasy, all the more so as he found he could in no way
come to our help. He had quite given us up for lost.
We looked for and found Kachi. He had slept like a
top, curled up in his warm blanket and my overcoat, and
was now quite refreshed; so, all united again, we continued
our race downward, exchanging our experiences and sen-
sations. We had no very serious mishaps, and life and
strength gradually came back to us again when we de-
scended to lower elevations. The ascent from the glacier
164
RETURN TO CAMP
at the bottom of the mountain to the summit occupied
four and a half hours ; the precipitous descent, without
counting stoppages, only the ninth part of that time.
Over the same trying stony valley we reached camp
during the early hours of the morning. The distance
from camp to the altitude reached and back was over ten
miles ; therefore, during the twenty-four hours I had alto-
gether gone eighteen miles (quite a record at such great
altitudes). I may here also remark that, since breakfast at
six o'clock the previous morning, I had taken no food of
any kind, thus making an interval of twenty-three hours
between one meal and the next. The anxiety of my men
in camp was intense. They had lost all hope of seeing
us again, and they were quite reassured when I told them
that we would proceed later in the morning by the Lum-
piya Pass, which was believed to be far easier.
In no time they had lighted a fire of dung, and after
having had (at five o'clock in the morning) a handsome
feed of rice, chapatis, extract of meat, and strengthen-
ing emergency food, we felt we were entitled to a well-
deserved rest.
i. N 165
CHAPTER XXV
THE SOURCES OF THE KUTI RIVER THE LUMPIVA GLACIER THE
SUMMIT OF THE RANGE BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF TIBET RUBSO FROZKN
ALMOST TO DEATH THE LUMPIYA PASS TWO COOLIES IN DIS-
TRESS
AT 9 A.M. we were ready again to start. The ther-
mometer registered 40 inside the tent, and the minimum
temperature outside during the night had been 14. We
followed the Kuti River at the foot of the mountain-
range, travelling in a direction of 298 (b. m.). On round-
ing a prominent headland, where the Kuti River flows
through a narrow passage, we saw facing us on a mound
fourteen stone pillars and pyramids with white stones on
them and the customary flying prayers of cloth. It is
from this point that the ascent to the Lumpiya Pass
begins.
There are two sources of the Kuti Yangti, joining in a
large basin ; one comes from two extensive glaciers to the
southwest, the other from a glacier directly under the
Lumpiya Pass. The river at the junction of the two
sources is not more than six yards across. Our route
gradually ascended, going northwest first, then swinging
away to northeast until we attained an elevation of 17,350
feet on a flat basin covered with deep snow. So far we
had proceeded with no very great trouble or fatigue, but
matters suddenly altered for the worse. Each coolie in
the long silent row at the head of which I marched sank
in the snow up to his knees, often up to his waist. They
formed, undoubtedly, a picturesque sight in this lonely
1 66
M
X
.
THE LUMPIYA GLACIER
region, the only bit of life in the picture, the white frozen
sheet of snow throwing into strong contrast their faces
wrapped tightly round with white turbans. Some wore
fur caps with ear-flaps ; all had long sheepskin coats and
high boots of skins; many used snow spectacles; and as
this procession, silent and grave, with loads on their
backs, struggled higher and higher with piteous pant-
ing, you speculated apprehensively as to how many of
them would ever return. Moving cautiously to avoid
the many treacherous cracks, I made my way ahead with
considerable trouble to a spot six hundred feet higher,
where I halted for a while on a rocky island fairly clear
of snow. As coolie after coolie arrived, breathing con-
vulsively, he dropped his load and sat quietly by the side
of it. There was not a grumble, not a word of reproach
for the hard work they were made to endure. Sleet was
falling, and the wet and cold increased the discomfort.
There was now a very steep pull before us. To the left
we had a glacier beginning in a precipitous fall of ice,
about one hundred feet in height. Like the Mangshan
glacier, it was in horizontal, ribbon-like strata of beauti-
fully clear ice, showing no dirt bands. Perpendicular
stripes of a darker greenish color could be observed aris-
ing from the unequal degrees of compactness of the ice;
the strata showed almost horizontal, with no curvatures
nor depressions in any part of them. The top, the base,
and the sides of the glacier were in this case also buried
in deep snow.
The doctor and I went ahead. In our anxiety to reach
the summit, unable to discern the track, now covered by
several feet of snow, we mistook our bearings, and with
great fatigue climbed up an extremely steep incline. Here
we were on a patch of the troublesome loose debris, on
which we struggled for over half an hour until we reached
167
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
the top of the range, 18,750 feet, considerably higher than
the pass itself. Four men had come with us, the others,
to whom we signalled, bearing more to the west by another
dangerous track skirting the glacier.
The wind from the northeast was piercing and the cold
terrible. Under the lee of a large rock we found tempo-
rary shelter,and through my telescope scanned the Tibetan
plateau spread out before us. From this high eyrie we
obtained a superb bird's-eye view. Huge masses of snow
covered the Tibetan side of the Himahlyas, as well as the
lower range of mountains immediately in front of us, run-
ning almost parallel to our range. Two thousand feet
below, between these two ranges, flowed, in a wide barren
valley, a river which is afterwards called the Darma Yankti
or Lumpiya Yankti. In the distance a flat plateau, rising
some eight hundred feet above the river, and resembling
a gigantic embankment of a railway line, could be seen
extending for many miles; and far away to the north a
chain of high blue mountains capped with snow, undoubt-
edly the Kangri chain with the Kelas peaks.
A painful incident had unfortunately happened to one
of my followers poor Rubso, a Christian convert, had
fallen exhausted from cold and fatigue. He had been
seized with cramp, and was lying in a semiconscious state,
his teeth chattering and his features distorted and livid ;
his eyes were sunken and lifeless, and he showed signs of
complete collapse. We hastily carried him under the
shelter of a rock and rubbed him vigorously, in the hope
of restoring his circulation. After more than half an hour
of the greatest anxiety and exertion, to our intense relief
he partially recovered and was able to proceed slowly
with our help.
Having climbed the wrong path, we now had to descend
to the pass, six hundred feet lower. We made our way
1 68
A DANGEROUS DESCENT
along dangerous rocks and debris. I was just clinging
with my half-frozen fingers to a prominent rock, striving
to get on the other side, when screams of distress from
below struck my ears. Notwithstanding the unsafe posi-
tion I was in, I could not help turning my head to see
what had happened. On the steep incline of snow two-
coolies with their respective loads were sliding at incredi-
ble speed. They eventually reached the basin, where the
angle of the descent being suddenly altered, it caused
them to revolve several times on their own axes, the dif-
ferent bags, etc., forming their loads, flying about and
being scattered in every direction. I gave a sigh of relief
when I saw the men getting up. One coolie picked up-
one after the other the goods that had been intrusted to-
him, tied them together, got them on his back, and began
the difficult ascent a second time. The other was crying
and moaning, so that we could plainly hear him from our
elevation. He seemed giddy. After a moment or two he
staggered, fell back, and lay as if dead. Hastening over
the slippery rocks, and then down precipitously on the
loose debris, I gained the pass, 18,150 feet. Two reluctant
men were immediately despatched to the relief of the coolie
in distress. They first carried his load up, then him. After
some time he too got over the severe shock and fright,
and, though he was rather shattered and aching all over,
I succeeded in persuading the man that nothing was the
matter with him.
We then hurried down the steep declivity on the Tibetan
side, to get away quickly from the bitterly cold, windy
pass. Describing a wide arc of a circle, and then making
straight down across several long snow-beds, we at last
reached the river level and pitched our tents on snow at
an altitude of 16,900 feet. There was no wood, no yak or
pony dung, no lichens, no moss, and therefore nothing
169
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
with which we could make a fire. It seemed hard upon
my men that, after such a toilsome day, they should be
compelled to go to sleep without having had a good meal.
They believe and they are right that eating cold food
at such high elevations, with such low temperature, leads
to certain death. They preferred, therefore, to remain
without food altogether. Night came, and with it the
wind, blowing in gusts and piling the grit and snow
around our tents. During the nocturnal hours, with the
hurricane raging, we had to turn out of our flapping can-
vases several times to make the loose pegs firmer. Fast-
ening all the frozen ropes was very cold work. At 2 A.M.
the thermometer was down to 12. At 9 A.M., in the sun,
it went up to 26, and inside the tent at the same hour we
had a temperature as high as 32 freezing-point.
CHAPTER XXVI
MYSTERIOUS FOOTPRINTS BRIGAND OR SPY? PASSES AND TRACKS IN-
TENSE COLD NO FUEL A HIGH, FLAT PLATEAU FUEL AT LAST!
TWO SPIES IN DISGUISE WHAT THEY TOOK US FOR
IN a hurricane of grit and drenching rain we packed
up our traps as best we could and again started on our
way. I was slightly in advance, when, to my surprise,
I noticed, some two hundred yards only from camp,
a double line of recent footmarks in the snow. Those
coming towards us were somewhat indistinct and nearly
covered with grit, those going in the opposite direction
seemed quite recent. After carefully examining these
footprints, I felt pretty certain that they had been made
by a Tibetan. Where the footprints stopped, marks in
the snow showed that the man had at different points laid
himself flat on the ground. No doubt we had been spied
upon and watched. My own men had shown many signs
of terror ever since we had crossed to this side of the
Himahlyas, and were now all anxiously stooping low over
these prints and speculating on their origin. Their excite-
ment and fear were strange to watch. Some surmised
that the man must be a Daku, a brigand, and that in the
evening we should be attacked by the whole band ; others
maintained that the spy could only be a Sepoy sent by the
Gyanema officers to watch our movements. In any case,
this incident was held to be an evil omen, and during our
march in a northwest direction along the bank of the
river we continually saw the trail. The wildest specula-
171
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
tions and imaginations were rife. To the left of us we
passed the valleys leading south to the Neway Pass ; then
a second to the Kats, 230 (b. m.). The bearings were
taken from the mouth of the river descending from it and
a tributary of the Darma Yangti.
Six miles from our last camp, at bearings 340, was the
L u way Pass.
We were travelling on flat or slightly undulating barren
ground. We waded across another cold river with water
up to our waists, and my men became so exhausted that
one mile farther we had to halt at 16,650 feet.
The cold was intense, and again we had no fuel of any
kind. A furious wind was blowing, with snow falling
heavily in the evening. My carriers, half starved, ate a
little satoo, a kind of oatmeal, but Chanden Sing, a Raji-
put, could not, without breaking his caste, eat his food
without undressing. It was two days since he had had
his last meal, but rather than infringe the rules of his re-
ligion, or take off his clothes in such frigid regions, he
preferred to curl up in his blanket and go to sleep
fasting.
The doctor left the warmth and comfort of blankets to
go and talk with the men, and get their views about
weather prospects and the chances of our route. I pre-
ferred the comfort of such warmth as I could get in our
tent, where the temperature was 28 Fahr., or four de-
grees below freezing. The snow was lying a foot deep,
and it was still falling heavily. The carriers were all at-
tempting to sleep, huddled as close as possible to each
other for warmth ; they refused to move, saying they
would rather die, and we found it convenient to believe
them, and get what warmth and sleep we could under
blankets in the tent.
Two or three hours later the weather cleared. The
172
A SHELTERED NOOK
coolies, half starved, came to complain that they were
again unable to find fuel to cook their food, and that they
would leave me. The position of affairs was critical. I
immediately took my telescope and clambered to the top
of a small hillock. It was curious to note what unbound-
ed faith the coolies had in this glass. It was evident that
they believed, in a childlike fashion, that I could see
through mountains with it. I came down with the reas-
suring news that one day's march farther would bring us
to a fine supply of fuel.
They cheerfully hastened to pack up the loads, and set
forth with unusual energy in the direction I had pointed
out. We followed a parallel line to the high flat plateau
on the other side of the stream, the slopes of which, in
relation to the plain we were standing on, were at an ob-
tuse angle of about 115. The snow-covered plateau ex-
tended from southwest to northeast. Beyond it to the
north could be seen some high snowy peaks, in all prob-
ability the lofty summits southeast of Gartok. At the
point where the Luway joins the other three rivers there
is a direct way to the summit of the table-land, along
which it continues across the Himahlyas by the Luway
Pass. To our right we were flanked by high, rugged
mountains, with an occasional precipitous torrent. Six
hours' brisk marching took us to a sheltered nook where
a few lichens and shrubs were growing. If we had sud-
denly descended into the Black Forest of Germany or
the Yosemite Valley, with their gigantic, century-old trees,
our delight could not have been Greater. As it was, the
o o
highest of these shrubs stood no higher than six or seven
inches from the ground, while the diameter of the largest
piece of wood we collected was smaller than that of an
ordinary pencil. With feverish activity all hands went to
work to root up these plants for fuel.
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
When night came, the same number of hands were
busy cooking and transferring with alarming celerity such
-steaming food as was available from the different fires to
the mouths of the famished coolies. Happiness reigned in
camp, and all recent hardships were forgotten.
A fresh surprise was awaiting us when we rose. Two
Tibetans disguised as beggars had come to our camp.
They professed to be suffering from cold and starvation.
I gave orders that they should be properly fed and kindly
treated. On being cross-examined they confessed that
they were spies sent by the officer at Gyanema to ascer-
tain whether a sahib had crossed the frontier, and whether
we had seen anything of him.
We had so many things to attend to in the morning,
and it was so cold, that washing had really become a
nuisance, and I for my part gave it up, at least pro tern.
We were sunburned, and we wore turbans and snow-glasses,
so the Tibetans departed under the impression that our
party consisted of a Hindoo doctor, his brother, and a
caravan of servants (none of whom had seen a sahib com-
ing), and that we were now on a pilgrimage to the sacred
Mansarowar Lake and Kelas Mount.
In the presence of the men we treated this as a great
joke, but, all the same, Wilson and I anxiously consulted
as to our immediate plans. Should we make a rapid
march during the night over the mountain range to our
right, and strike east by the jungle, or should we face the
Gyanema leader and his soldiers?
We decided to meet them rather than go out of our
way, and I gave orders to raise camp immediately.
174
CHAPTER XXVII
LAMA CHOKDEN -A TIBETAN GUARD THE SACRED KELAS REVERENCE
OF MY MEN FOR THE SACRED MOUNTAIN TRYING HARD TO KEEP
FRIENDS WITH THE GODS OBOS WATER FLOWING TO US
WE altered our course from north to northeast, rising
to 16,600 feet, and leaving the high table-land to the west.
We arrived at Lama Chokden (or Chorten),a pass protected
by a Tibetan guard, who quickly turned out, matchlocks
in hand, as we approached. They seemed a miserable lot,
and not only offered no resistance, but actually begged
for money and food. They complained of ill-treatment
by their superiors, stating that they received no pay, and
even food was only occasionally sent to them at this out-
post. Their tunics were in rags; each man carried a
sword stuck in front through the girdle. Here, too, we
had more inquiries about the young sahib, as messengers
on horseback had been sent post-haste from Taklakot to
warn the Gyanema officer not to let him penetrate into
Hundes* by the Lumpiya Pass, should he attempt it.
Their description of my supposed appearance was very
amusing, and when they said that if the sahib came they
would have to cut his head off, I felt so touched by their
good-natured confidence that I wanted to distribute a few
rupees among them.
" Do not give them anything, sir," said Kachi and the
doctor. " These fellows are hand and glove with the
bands of dacoits ; the latter will soon be told that we have
* Hundes Tibet.
I. O 175
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
money, and we shall run great risk of being attacked at
night."
I insisted on giving them a present.
" No, sir," cried Kachi, distressed ; " do not do it, or it
will bring us no end of trouble and misfortune. If you
give them four annas, that will be ample."
Accordingly the officer in command had this large sum
deposited in the outstretched palm of his hand, and, to
show his satisfaction, he pulled out his tongue to its full
length, waving both his hands at me for some minutes,
and bowing clumsily at the same time. His fur cap had
been previously removed and thrown on the ground.
This was indeed a grand salaam, a ceremonious acknowl-
edgment of a gift of something less than fourpence !
While the doctor remained in conversation with him, I
happened to witness a very beautiful sight. To the north
the clouds had dispersed, and the snow-capped sacred
Kelas Mount stood majestic before us. In appearance
not unlike the graceful roof of a temple, Kelas towers
over the long white-capped range, contrasting in beautiful
blending of tints with the warm sienna color of the lower
elevations. Kelas is some two thousand feet higher than
the other peaks of the Gangir chain, with strongly defined
ledges and terraces marking its stratifications, and covered
with horizontal layers of snow standing out in brilliant
color against the dark, ice-worn rock. The Tibetans, the
Nepalese, the Shokas, the Humlis, Jumlis, and Hindoos,
all have a strong veneration for this mountain, which is
believed by them to be the abode of all the good gods,
especially of the god Siva. In fact, the ledge round its
base is said by the Hindoos to be the mark of the ropes
used by the devil (Rakas) to pull down the throne of
Siva.
My men, with heads uncovered, their faces turned tow-
176
FRIENDS WITH THE GODS
ards the sacred peak, were muttering prayers. With
joined hands, which they slowly raised as high as the
forehead, they prayed fervently, and then went down on
their knees, with heads bent low to the ground. My brig-
and follower, who was standing close by me, hurriedly
whispered that I should join in this act of prayer.
" You must keep friends with the gods," said the ban-
dit ; " misfortune will attend you if you do not salaam to
Kelas; that is the home of a good god !" and he pointed
to the peak with the most devout air of conviction.
To please him I saluted the mountain with the utmost
deference, and, taking my cue from the others, placed a
white stone on one of the hundreds of Choktens or Obos
(stone pillars) erected by devotees at this spot. These
Obos, or rough pyramids of stones, are found on the tracks
traversing all high passes, near lakes in fact, everywhere,
but rarely in such quantities as at Lama Chokden. The
hill in front, and at the back of the guard-house, was liter-
ally covered with these structures. Each passer-by de-
posits a stone on one of them a white stone if possible
and this is supposed to bring him good-fortune, or, if he
has a wish he desires accomplished, such a contribution
will enhance the chances of its fulfilment.
The guard-house itself was of rough stone, mean and
desolate, and in any country but Tibet would not be con-
sidered fit accommodation for pigs.
After oroinor a mile or so farther, as the sun was fast
o o
disappearing we searched for a suitable spot to pitch our
tents. There was no sign of any water, only the stony
bed of a dried rivulet. We were discussing the situation,
when a faint sound as of rushing water struck our ears.
It grew louder and louder, and then we saw coming tow-
ards us a stream of limpid molten snow, gradually advanc-
ing over the bed of stones. Evidently the snow of the
177
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
mountains had taken all day to melt, and the water was
only now reaching this spot. My dacoit was in a great
state of excitement.
" Water flowing to you, sahib !" he exclaimed, with his
arms outstretched. "You will have great luck ! Look!
Look! You want water for your camp, and a stream
comes to you ! Heaven blesses you. You must dip your
fingers into the water as soon as it comes up to you, and
throw some drops over your shoulders. Then will fortune
attend you on your journey."
I readily fell in with this Tibetan superstition, and we
all dipped our fingers and sprinkled the water behind our
backs. Wilson, however, who took the matter quite seri-
ously, said it was all nonsense, and would not give in to
such " childish fancy."
Good -fortune would have meant much to me, but in
the days to come this simple rite proved to have been
futile ! Certainly no good fairy watched over my steps,
and often the thought of this ceremony came back to me
with bitterness.
178
CHAPTER XXVIII
AN EXTENSIVE VALLEY KIANG, OR WILD HORSE THEIR STRANGE
WAYS THE GYANEMA FORT APPREHENSION AT OUR APPEARANCE
A PARLEY "CUT OUR HEADS !" REVOLT AND MURDER CONTEM-
PLATED HYPOCRITICAL WAYS OF TIBETAN OFFICIALS HELP SUM-
MONED FROM EVERYWHERE PREPARING FOR WAR
IN front of our camp was a great stretch of flat alluvial
land, which had been, to all appearance, at some remote
time the bed of a lar^e lake about ten miles Ions: and
o o
fourteen wide. With my telescope I could see plainly to
40 (b. m.), at the foot of a small hill, the camping-ground
of Karko. There were many tents, and my men seemed
much reassured when by their shape and color we made
them out to be those of the Joharis from Milam, who
come over at this place to trade with the Hunyas.* To
east-northeast we had a valley extending for many miles
between two high ranges, and to the west and northwest
were hills between us and the Darma Yangti, flowing
there in a north-northeast direction. Beyond Karko to
the north a stretch of water, the Gyanema Lake, showed
brilliantly, and beyond it some comparatively low hill
ranges. In the distance, more snowy peaks were visible.
On leaving camp we traversed the plain for six miles
in a northeast direction, and then, on a course of 80
(b. m.), turned into a smaller valley well enclosed by hills,
following it for a distance of three or four miles. This
formed, as it were, an arm of the other large valley.
* Hunyas Tibetans.
179
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
During our march we saw many large herds of Kiang
(wild horse). These animals came quite close to us. They
resembled zebras in shape and movement of body, but in
color they were mostly light brown. The natives regard-
ed their near proximity as extremely dangerous ; for their
apparent tameness is often deceptive, enabling them to
draw quite close to the unwary traveller, and then with a
sudden dash seize him by the stomach, inflicting a horri-
ble wound with their powerful jaws. Their graceful and
coquettish ways were most taking; we occasionally threw
stones at them to keep them at a safe distance, but after
cantering prettily away they would follow us again and
come within a few yards. I succeeded in taking some very
good negatives, which unfortunately were afterwards de-
stroyed by the Tibetan authorities. I still have, however,
some of the sketches I made of them. We climbed over
another hill range, and descended on the other side into a
grassy stretch of flat land, in the northern portion of which
was a sheet of water. On a hill south of the lake stood the
Gyanema Khar, or fort, a primitive tower-like structure of
stones, with a tent pitched over it to answer the purpose
of roof, supporting a flag-staff on which flew two dirty
white rags. They were not the colors of Hundes, but
only wind prayers. Lower down, at the foot of the hill,
were two or three large black tents and a small shed of
stones. Hundreds of black, white, and brown yaks were
grazing on the green patches of grass.
The appearance of our party evidently created some
apprehension, for we had hardly shown ourselves on the
summit of the col when from the fort a gong began to
sound loudly, filling the air with its unmelodious metallic
notes. A shot was fired. Soldiers with their matchlocks
were seen running here and there. They pulled down
one of the black tents and hastily conveyed it inside the
1 80
AT THE GYANEMA FORT
fort, the greater part of the garrison also seeking shelter
within the walls with the empressement almost of a stam-
pede. When, after some little time, they convinced them-
selves that we had no evil intentions, some of the Tib-
etan officers, followed by their men, came trembling to
meet us. The doctor, unarmed, went ahead to talk with
them, whereas my bearer and I remained with the coolies
for the double purpose of protecting our baggage in case
of a treacherous attack, and of preventing my panic-
stricken carriers from abandoning their loads and escap-
ing. But matters looked peaceful enough. Rugs were
spread on the grass, and eventually we all sat down. An
hour's trying parley with the Tibetan officers, during
which time the same things were repeated over and over
again, led to nothing. The)' said they could on no ac-
count allow any one from India, whether native or sahib,
to proceed, and we must go back. We on our side stated
that we were doing no harm. We were pilgrims to the
sacred Lake of Mansarowar, only a few miles farther. We
had gone to much expense and trouble. How could
we now turn back when so near our goal ? We would
not go back, and trusted they would allow us to pro-
ceed.
We treated them courteously and kindly, and probably
mistaking this for fear they promptly took advantage of
it, especially the Magbun,* or chief officer in charge of the
Gyanema fort. His marked humility, of which at first
he had made so much display, suddenly turned into arro-
gance.
" You will have to cut off my head," said he, with a
vicious countenance, "or rather I will cut off yours, before
I let you go another step."
* Magbun or Magpun General-in-Chief.
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
"Cut off my head?" cried I, jumping on my feet and
shoving a cartridge into my rifle.
" Cut off my head ?" repeated my bearer, pointing with
his Martini-Henry at the official.
"Cut off our heads?" queried angrily the Brahmin
and the two Christian servants of Dr. Wilson, handling
a Winchester and a couple of Gourkha kukris (large
knives).
" No, no, no, no ! Salaam, salaam, salaam !" poured
forth the Magbun with the celerity of speech only pos-
sessed by a panic-stricken man. " Salaam, salaam," re-
peated he again, bowing down to the ground, tongue out,
and depositing his hat at our feet in a disgustingly servile
manner. " Let us talk like friends!"
The Magbun's men, no braver than their master, shifted
their positions in a nonchalant manner so as to be screened
by their superiors in case of our firing, and on second
thoughts, judging even such a precaution to insure them
but scanty safety, they one after the other got up, walked
steadily away for half a dozen steps, to show it was not
fear that made them leave, and then took to their heels.
The Magbun and the other officers who remained be-
came more and more meek. We spoke and argued in a
friendly manner for two long hours, but with no appreci-
able results. The Magbun could not decide of his own
accord. He would consult with his officers, and he could
give us an answer no sooner than the next morning. In
the mean time he would provide for our general comfort
and insure our safety, if we would encamp near his tent.
This, of course, I well knew to be an expedient to gain
time, so as to send for soldiers to Barca, north of the
Rakstal Lake, as well as to all the neighboring camps. I
frankly told him my suspicions, but added that I wished
to deal fairly with the Tibetan authorities before resort-
182
A DEMORALIZED COMPANY
ing to force. I reminded the Magbun again, and made
him plainly understand, that we were merely peaceful
travellers, and had not come to fight; that I was paying
tenfold for anything I purchased from him or his men,
and was glad to do so; but at the same time, let the hand
beware that dared touch or twist a single hair of any one
belonging to my party! The Magbun declared that he
understood perfectly. He swore friendship, and as friends
he begged us to stop over the night near his camp. By
the Sun and Kunju Sum (Trinity) he gave a solemn oath
that we should in no way be harmed. He took humble
leave of us and retired.
The doctor and I had been sitting in front, next were
Chanden Sing, the Brahmin, and the two Christians. The
carriers were behind. When the Magbun had gone I
turned round to look at them. Behold, what a sight !
They one and all were crying miserably, each man hiding
his face in his hands. Kachi had tears streaming down
his cheeks, Dola was sobbing, while the Daku and the
other Tibetan in my employ, who had for the occasion
assumed a disguise, were concealing themselves behind
their loads. Serious though the situation was, I could
not help laughing at the demoralization of my men.
We pitched our tents, and I had been sitting awhile in-
side one, registering my observations and writing up my
diary, when Kachi crept in, apparently in great distress.
He seemed so upset that he could hardly speak.
"Master!" he whispered. "Master! The Tibetans
have sent a man to your coolies threatening them that
they must betray you or die. They must abandon you
during the night, and if you attempt to retain them they
must kill you."
At the same time that this agent had been sent to con-
spire with my coolies, other envoys of the Magbun brought
183
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
huge masses of dry dung to make our fires, conveying to
me his renewed declarations of friendship. Notwith-
standing this, soldiers were despatched in every direction
to call for help. I saw them start : one went towards
Kardam and Taklakot; a second proceeded in the direc-
tion of Barca, and a third galloped to the west.
My carriers were evidently preparing a coup de main as
1 watched them through an opening in the tent. They
were busily engaged separating their blankets and clothes
from my loads, dividing the provisions among themselves,
and throwing aside my goods. I went out to them, pa-
tiently made them repack the things, and cautioned them
that I would shoot any one who attempted to revolt or
desert.
While the doctor and I sat down to a hearty meal,
which rumors in camp said would be our last, Chanden
Sing was intrusted with the preparations for war on our
side. He cleaned the rifles with much care, and got the
ammunition ready, for he was longing to fight. The Brah-
min, on whose faithfulness we could also rely, remained
cool and collected through the whole affair. He was a
philosopher, and never worried over anything. He took
no active part in preparing for our defence, for he feared
not death. God alone could kill him, he argued, and all
the matchlocks in the country together could not send a
bullet through him unless God wished it. And if it be
God's decree that he should die, what could be the use
of rebelling against it ? The two converts, like good
Christians, were more practical, and lost no time in grind-
ing the huge blades of their kukris to the sharpness of
a razor.
When darkness came a guard was placed, at a little dis-
tance off, all round our camp. It seemed likely that a
rush on our tent with the help of my treacherous carriers
184
TIBETANS THREATEN AN ATTACK
was contemplated, should an opportunity occur. One of
us kept watch outside all through the night, and those in-
side lay down in their clothes, with loaded rifles by them.
I can't say that either Dr. Wilson or I felt particular-
ly uneasy, for the Tibetan soldiers, with their clumsy
matchlocks, long spears, and jewelled swords and dag-
gers, inspired us with more admiration for their pictu-
resque appearance than with fear.
185
CHAPTER XXIX
ARRIVAL OF A HIGH OFFICIAL THE BARCA TARJUM A TEDIOUS PALAVER
THE TARJUM'S ANXIETY PERMISSION TO PROCEED A TRAITOR-
ENTREATED TO RETRACE OUR STEPS THIRTY ARMED HORSEMEN
A PRETTY SPEECH
QUITE early the next morning we were roused by the
distant sound of tinkling horse-bells. On looking out of
the tent I saw a long row of pack-ponies heavily laden v
escorted by a number of mounted soldiers with match-
locks and spears. It was evident that some high official
was coming. This advance detachment consisted of his
subalterns and his baggage. They took a long sweep far
away from our tent and dismounted by the Gyanema fort.
Other soldiers and messengers were constantly arriving in
groups from all directions. The leader of one party, with
a considerable escort of soldiers, was received with profuse
salaams, and I concluded that he must be an important
personage.
After some time a message was sent to us that this new-
comer, the Barca Tarjum, practically a potentate equal in
rank to a king under a protectorate, wished to have the
honor of seeing us. We replied that we were having
our breakfast and that we would send for him when we
wished to speak to him. Our experience had taught us
that it was advisable to treat Tibetan officials as inferiors,
as they were then more subdued and easier to deal with.
At eleven we despatched a messenger to the fort to say
we should be pleased to receive the Tarjum. He came
immediately with a large following, a picturesque figure
1 86
THE BARCA TARJUM
dressed in a long coat of green silk of Chinese shape, with
large sleeves turned up, showing his arms up to the elbow;
he had a cap similar to those worn by Chinese officials,
and he was shod in heavy, long black boots, with large
nails under the soles. His long, pale, angular face was
remarkable in many ways ; it was interestingly stolid, and,
though somewhat effeminate, had rather fine features ; un-
mistakable signs of depravity indicated his low class of
mind and morals. Long hair fell in loose curls down to
his shoulders, and hanging from his left ear was an ear-ring
of large dimensions, with malachite ornaments and a pen-
dant. In his nervous fingers he held a small roll of Tib-
etan material, which he used with both hands as a hand-
kerchief to blow his nose inconsequently every time that
he was at a loss to answer a question. The Tarjum and
his men were profuse in their bows, and there was, as
usual, a great display of tongues. These were, I noticed,
of an unhealthy whitish color, caused throughout Tibet by
excessive tea-drinking, a practice which ruins the digestion
and furs their tongues.
We had rugs placed outside our principal tent, and the
doctor and I sat on one, asking the Tarjum to sit on the
one facing us. His followers squatted around him. It
is a well-known fact that in Tibet, if you are a " some-
body," or if you wish people to recognize your impor-
tance, you must have an umbrella spread over your head.
Fortunately, the ever-prudent doctor had two in his pos-
session ; which two of our men held over our respective
heads. The Tarjum himself was shaded under a parasol
of colossal dimensions, held in position by his secretary.
In spite of the extravagant terms of friendship which
fell from the Tarjum s lips, I was convinced, by close ob-
servation of the man's face that his words were insincere
and that it would be unsafe to trust him. He never
i. p 187
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
looked us straight in the face ; his eyes were fixed on the
ground all the time, and he spoke in a despicably affected
manner. I did not like the man from the very first, and,
friend or no friend, I kept my loaded rifle on my lap.
After endless ponderous speeches, clumsy compliments,
and tender inquiries after all relations they could possibly
think of ; after tiring parabolic sentences with fine sounds
but no meaning; after repeated blowing of the nose and
loud coughing, which always came on opportunely when
we asked whether they had yet come to a conclusion as
to what we should be allowed to do, at last, when my
patience was nearly exhausted, our negotiations of the
previous day were reopened. We argued for hours. We
asked to be allowed to go on. They were still uncertain
whether they would let us or not. To simplify matters,
and hasten their decision before other reinforcements ar-
rived, the doctor applied for permission to let only eight
of us proceed to Mansarowar. He (the doctor) himself
would remain at Gyanema with the remainder of the
party as a guarantee of good faith. But even this offer
they rejected, not directly, but with hypocritical excuses
and delays, for they thought we would not find our way,
and that if we did we should find it very rough and the
climate too-severe ; that the brigands might attack us, and
so on, and so on. All this was very tiresome, and there
were signs even of a nasty side to their attitude. I de-
cided to know what I was about.
Still holding the rifle cocked at safety on my lap, I
turned the muzzle of it towards the Tarjum, and purpose-
ly let my hand slide down to the trigger. He became
uncomfortable, and his face showed signs of wild terror.
His eyes, until now fixed upon the ground, became first
unsteady, and then settled fixedly, and with a look of dis-
tress, on the muzzle of my rifle. At the same time he
'188
THE TARJUM BROUGHT TO TERMS
tried to dodge the aim, right or left, by moving his head,
but I made the weapon follow all his movements. The
Tar] urn's servants fully shared their master's fear. "With-
out doubt the poor fellow was in agony ; his tone of voice,
a moment before boisterous and aggressive, now dwindled
into the humblest intonations imaginable. With much
meekness he expressed himself ready to please us in every
way.
" I see that you are good people," said he in a faint
whisper, accompanied by a deep bow. " I cannot give, as
I would like to do, my official sanction to your journey
forward, but you can go if you wish. I cannot say more.
Eight of you can proceed to the sacred Mansarowar Lake.
The others will remain here."
Before giving his final decision he said that he would
prefer to have another consultation with his officers.
We accorded this readily.
The Tarjum then presented the doctor with a roll of
Tibetan cloth.
I had bathed, as usual, in the morning, and my Turkish
towel was spread outside the tent to dry. The Tarjum,
who showed great interest in all our things, took a par-
ticular fancy to its knotty fabric. He sent for his child
to see this wonderful material, and when he arrived the
towel was placed on the youth's back as if it were a shawl.
I at once offered it to him as a present if he would accept
it. There were no bounds to his delight, and our rela-
tions, somewhat strained a few minutes earlier, became
now of the friendliest character. We invited the party
inside our tent, and they examined everything with curi-
osity, asking endless questions. They were now quite
jovial and pleasant, and even occasionally amusing. Tib-
etans have a craving for alcohol at all times, and they soon
asked me if I had any to give them ; there was nothing
189
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
they would like more. As I never carry any when travel-
ling, I could not offer them any recognized drink ; but, not
wishing to disappoint them, I produced a bottle of methy-
lated spirits (which I used for my hypsometrical appara-
tus). This they readily drank, apparently appreciating its
throat-burning qualities, and asked for more. The Tar-
jum complained of an ailment from which he had suffered
for some time, and the doctor was able to give him a suit-
able remedy, and all the other officers received small pres-
ents when they departed.
In the afternoon a messenger came from the Barca Tar-
O
jum. He had good news for us. The Tarjum wished
us to understand that, " as we had been so kind to him
and his followers, he regarded us as his personal friends ;
and as we were so anxious to visit the Mansarowar
Lake and the great Kelas Mount, and had already ex-
perienced many difficulties and great expense in com-
ing so far, he agreed to eight of our party proceeding to
the sacred spots. It was impossible for him to give an
official consent, but he repeated again that we could go if
we wished."
This news naturally delighted me. Once at Kelas, I
felt sure I could easily find some means of going farther.
On the same evening a traitor in our camp sneaked
from under the tent in which my men were sleeping and
paid a visit to the Tarjum. There is no doubt that he
told him I was not the doctor's brother, nor a Hindoo
pilgrim. He disclosed that I was a sahib, and that I was
on my way to Lhassa. From what I heard afterwards, it
seemed that the Tarjum did not quite believe his inform-
ant; but, fresh doubts arising in his mind, he sent a mes-
sage during the night, entreating us to return the way we
came.
" If there is really a sahib in your party, whom you
190
A PRETTY SPEECH
have kept concealed from me, and I let you go on, my
head will be cut off by the Lhassa people. You are now
my friends, and you will not allow this."
" Tell the Tarjum," I replied to the messenger, " that
he is my friend, and I will treat him as a friend."
In the morning we found thirty horsemen fully armed
posted some hundred yards from our tent. To proceed
with the demoralized crowd under me, and be followed
by this company, would certainly prove disastrous, and I
felt again that some ruse was a necessity.
Much to the astonishment and terror of the armed
force and their superiors, the doctor, Chanden Sing, and
I, rifles in hand, walked firmly towards the contingent
of sepoys. After us came the trembling coolies. The
Magbun and the Tarjum's officers could hardly believe
their eyes. The soldiers quickly dismounted, and laid
their arms down to show that they had no intention of
fighting. We passed them without any notice. The
Magbun ran after me. He begged me to stop one mo-
ment. Dola was summoned to interpret his elaborate
speech. A pair of prettily embroidered cloth boots were
produced from the loose folds of the official's coat, and
he offered them with the following words :
k ' Though your face is sunburned and black, and your
eyes are sore " (they were not, as a matter of fact, but I
wore snow-spectacles), " your features tell me that you are
of a good family, therefore you must be a high officer in
your country. Your noble feelings also show that you
would not have us punished for your sake, and now our
hearts are glad to see you retrace your steps. Let me
offer you these boots, so that your feet may not get sore
on the long and difficult journey back to your native
land."
It was neatly put, though the mode of reasoning was
191
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
peculiar. It was not to my interest to disillusionize the
Tibetan as to my purpose, so I accepted the boots. The
Magbun and his guard salaamed to the ground.
Without further parleying we left the Magbun, and,
retracing our steps, proceeded in a west-southwest direc-
tion, as though we had decided to turn back and leave
the country.
CHAPTER XXX
SPYING OUR MOVEMENTS DISGUISED SEPOVS A GLOOMY OUTLOOK-
TROUBLESOME FOLLOWERS ANOTHER MARCH BACK AN A.MUSI Mi
INCIDENT
WE reached the summit of the hill and crossed to the
other side. My men went on down the slope, but I re-
mained, screened by a large stone, to observe with my
telescope the folks at Gyanema. No sooner had my last
man disappeared on the other side of the pass than the
cavalrymen jumped into their saddles, and, raising clouds
of dust, galloped after us. This was what I had expected.
I hastened to rejoin my men. When down in the plain,
I again took my telescope, and watched the sky-line of
the hill we had just descended. Some thirty heads could
be seen peeping over the rocks from among the bowlders.
The soldiers had evidently dismounted and were spying
our movements. I felt annoyed that they did not openly
follow us, if they so wished, instead of watching us from
a distance, so I sighted my rifle to eight hundred yards,
lay down flat, and took aim at a figure I could see more
plainly than the others.
The doctor snatched the rifle from my shoulder.
" You must not shoot," said he, with his usual calm-
ness ; " you might kill somebody."
" I only wish to teach those cowards a lesson."
" That is all very well. But every man in Tibet is so
cowardly that the lesson would have to be constantly re-
peated," answered Wilson, with his perpetual wisdom.
I slung my rifle over my shoulder and made up my
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
mind to start some other time on the cyclopean task I
had then so nearly begun.
When we had covered a mile or so of the plain, our
phantomlike escort crossed the pass, and came full gallop
clown the hill. I gave orders to my men to halt, seeing
which the soldiers also came to a dead stop. I watched
them through the telescope. They seemed to be holding
a discussion. At last five men rode full speed north-
ward, probably to guard the track in that direction.
Three men remained where they were, and the remain-
der, as if seized by panic, galloped frantically up the
hill again, and disappeared over the summit.
We resumed our march. The three horsemen fol-
lowed a course one mile south of ours, close against the
foot of the hills, and, lying low upon their ponies' heads,
they probably imagined that they were passing us un-
perceived. Seeing that our bearings were for our old
camp at Lama Chokden, they left our line and rode
ahead of us.
When in the evening we reached Lama Chokden, two
shepherds came to greet us. Then another appeared.
"Our sheep are far away," said they. "We are hun-
gry. We are poor. Can we stop near your camp and
pick up the food that you will throw away ?"
" Certainly," I replied. " But mind you do not pick up
anything else."
These simple folk, thinking I should not know them,
had left their ponies at the Lama Chokden guard-house,
and, disguised as shepherds, they were now trying to in-
gratiate themselves with us, with the object of discover-
ing our movements and plans. They were, of course, no
other than the three sepoys from Gyanema.
At each step in our retreat towards the Himahlyas my
heart became heavier and my spirits more depressed. I
194
GLOOMY OUTLOOK
was full of stratagems, but to think out plans and to carry
them into effect were two different things.
O
How many times had not my schemes been upset ? How
often had I not had to begin afresh when all seemed ready
and in perfect working order? that, too, when I had
plenty of good material at my disposal to work upon.
Now things had changed altogether for the worse. My
chances of success, notwithstanding my incessant struggle,
were getting smaller and smaller every day. I could not
but feel that there must be an end eventually to the capa-
bility and endurance of my followers and myself. It is
hard enough to start on a difficult task, but when you are
well started, and have already overcome many difficulties,
to have to come back and begin again is more than galling.
The outlook was dark and gloomy ; I stood face to face
with apparent failure, and uncertain of the loyalty of my
own men.
At this camp, for instance, the Dakti (brigand), who had
changed his disguise several times since coming in contact
with the Tibetans, announced his immediate departure.
The doctor, with his usual kindness, had already entreated
him to remain, but without avail. We well knew that in
this region, infested by dacoits, this man was only leaving
us to recommence his late marauding habits. He would,
in all probability, join some band, and without much
doubt we might soon expect a visit during the darkest
hours of the night. The Daku knew that I carried a
large sum of money, and during the last two days his
behavior had been more than strange. Had he come
across some of his mates ? or had he heard from the sepoys
that they were in the neighborhood ?
The Daku had a bundle of his blankets strapped on
his back in readiness for immediate departure. My men,
distressed at this new danger, came to report it to me.
195
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
I immediately sent for him. Speaking bluntly, and keep-
ing his eyes fixed on the ground, he said, " I am going,
sahib."
"Where?" I inquired.
" I have friends near here, and I am goine: to them."
o o
"Very good, go," I replied, calmly taking up my rifle.
His load was off his shoulder in less time than it takes
to describe the event. He resumed his work as usual.
One or two other riotous coolies were brought back to
reason by similar menaces.
I heard later that a band of brigands attacked a party
near the frontier only two days after this occurred.
Another march back ! How painful it was to me ! Yet
it was advisable. We went a few miles and encamped on
the bank of a rapid stream, the Shirlangdu. From this
point, with some difficulty and danger, it would be possible
to climb over the mountain range during the night, and
attempt to elude the spies and watchmen by crossing the
jungle to Mansarowar. I made up my mind to attempt
this. It seemed to add to the risk to have so large a fol-
lowing as my thirty men, so I decided that only four or
five should accompany me. Going alone was impractica-
ble, because of the difficulty of carrying sufficient food, or
I would have by far preferred it. Nevertheless, if the
worst came to the worst, I resolved to attempt this latter
mode of travelling, and rely on the chance of obtaining
food from Tibetans.
All the loads were made ready. Articles of clothing
and comfort, niceties in the way of food, and extras in the
way of medicines were left behind to make room for my
scientific instruments.
Each pound in weight more that I dedicated to science
meant a pound less food to take us to Lhassa. Everything
that was not of absolute necessity had to be left.
196
T\VO TIBETAN SPIES
Two Tibetan spies came to camp in the afternoon, in
the disguise, as usual, of beggars. They asked for food,
and exacted it. Their manner was unbearably insulting.
This was a little too much for us, and Bijesing the Johari,
and Rubso the Christian cook were the first to enter into
an open fight with them. They punched and kicked them,
driving them down a steep ravine leading to a river ; then,
assisted by other men in camp, showered stones upon
them. The unfortunate intruders, unable to wade quick-
ly across the rapid stream, received as fine a reception as
they deserved.
This little skirmish amused the camp, but many of the
Shokas and Hunyas in my service were still scared out of
their wits. It was quite sufficient for them to see a Tib-
etan to crumble into nothing.
CHAPTER XXXI
AN ATTEMPT THAT FAILED A RESOLUTION A SMART SHOKA LAD
THE PLUCKY CHANDEN SING PROPOSES TO ACCOMPANY ME MANSING
THE LEPER BECOMES MY SERVANT'S SERVANT
THE hour fixed for my flight was 9 P.M. Five men had
been induced to follow me by the offer of a handsome
reward.
At the hour appointed no single one of them had put
in an appearance. I went in search of them. One man
had purposely injured his feet and was disabled, another
pretended to be dying, the others positively refused to
come. They were shivering with fright and cold.
" Kill us, sahib, if you like," they implored of me, " but
we will not follow you."
At 3 A.M. all attempts to get even one man to carry a.
load had proved futile. I had to abandon the idea of
starting.
My prospects became more gloomy than ever. An-
other march back towards the cold and dreary pass by
which I had entered Tibet !
" You are depressed, Mr. Landor," remarked the doctor..
I admitted the fact. Every step backward was to me
like a stab in the heart. I had wished to push on at all
costs, and it was only in consideration of my good and
kind friend, the doctor, that I had reluctantly refrained
from making my way by force. My blood was boiling. I
felt feverish. The cowardice of my men made them ab-
solutely contemptible, and I could not bear even to see
them.
198
WHEN STORMS COME
Immersed in my thoughts, I walked quickly on, and
the rugged way seemed short and easy. I found a suit-
able spot for our next camp. Here, before me and on
every side, stood high snowy mountains; there, in front,
towered that same Lumpiya Pass by which I had crossed
into Tibet with such high hopes. I detested the sight of
it on the present occasion ; its snowy slopes seemed to
mock at my failure.
Whether it is that storms invariably come when one is
depressed, or whether one gets depressed when storms-
are coming, I am not here prepared to say, but the fact
remains that, before we had time to pitch our tents, the
wind, which had been high all through the afternoon, in-
creased tenfold. The clouds above were wild and threat-
ening, and snow soon fell in feathery flakes.
" What are you going to do ?" inquired the doctor of
me. " I think you had better return to Garbyang, get
fresh men, and make another start."
" No, doctor. I will die rather than continue this back-
ward march. There will be a far better chance if I go-
alone, and I have resolved to start to-night, for I am con-
vinced that I shall find my way over the range."
" No, no, it is impossible, Mr. Landor," cried the doctor,
with tears in his eyes. " That must mean death to any
one attempting it."
I told him that I was quite determined.
The poor doctor was dumfounded. He knew that it
was useless to try to dissuade me. I went into the tent
to rearrange and reduce my baggage, making a load small
enough to carry on my back, in addition to the daily kit
and instruments.
While I was making preparations for my journey,
Kachi Ram entered the tent. He looked frightened and
perplexed.
199
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
"What are you doing, sir?" inquired he, hurriedly.
" The doctor says you are going to leave alone to-night,
cross the mountain range, and go to Lhassa by yourself."
" Yes, that is true."
"Oh, sir! The perils and dangers are too great, you
cannot go."
" I know, but I am going to try."
" Oh, sir ! Then I will come with you."
" No, Kachi. You will suffer too much. Go back to
your father and mother now that you have the oppor-
tunity."
" No, sir ; where you go, I will go. Small men never
suffer. If they do it does not matter. Only great men's
sufferings are worth noticing. If you surfer, I will suffer.
I will come."
Kachi's philosophy touched me. I ascertained beyond
doubt that he meant what he said, and then decided to
take him.
This was a piece of luck. Kachi Ram had five bosom
friends among the young Shoka coolies. They were all
friends of the Rambang, and in the evenings in camp they
often used to join and sing weird songs in honor of the
fair maids of their hearts, whom they had left on the other
side of the Himahlyas.
Kachi hurried away in a state of feverish excitement.
He was back in a few minutes.
" How many coolies will you take, sir?"
" None will come."
"Oh, I will get them. Will five do?"
" Yes," I murmured, incredulously.
My scepticism sustained a shock when Kachi returned,
buoyant, saying in his peculiar English :
" Five Shokas come, sir. Then you, sir, I, sir, five
coolies, sir, start night-time, what clock?"
200
CHARACTER OF KACHI RAM
" By Jove, Kachi," I could not help exclaiming, " you
are a smart lad !"
" ' Smart,' sir?" inquired he, sharply, hearing a new word.
He was most anxious to learn English, and he had a mania
for spelling. "'Smart!' What is meaning? How spell?"
" S-m-a-r-t. It means ' quick, intelligent.' "
" Smart," he repeated solemnly, as he wrote the newly
acquired word into a book which I had given him for the
purpose. Kachi was undoubtedly, in spite of some small
faults, a great character. He was a most intelligent,
sharp, well-meaning fellow. His never-failing good-
humor and his earnest desire to learn and to be useful
were quite refreshing.
My luck seemed to have turned indeed. A few min-
utes later my bearer, quite unaware that any one would
accompany me, entered the tent, and exclaimed in a dis-
gusted manner:
" Shoka crab, sahib ! Hunya log bura crab. Hazur
hum, do admi jaldi Lhasa giao" (The Shokas are bad.
The Hunyas are very bad. Your honor and I, we two
alone, will go quickly by ourselves to Lhassa.)
Here was another plucky and useful man anxious to
come. He professed to have no fear of death. He was
the type of man I wanted. How true the poor fellow's
protestations were I learned at a later date.
Chanden Sing was a man of strong sporting proclivi-
ties. His happiness was complete when he could fire his
rifle at something, though he was never known to hit the
mark. He had been severely reprimanded and punished
by me only a few days before for wasting several car-
tridges on kiang (wild horse) three miles distant. Ordi-
nary work, however, such as doing his own cooking or
keeping my things tidy, was distasteful to him, and was
invariably passed on to others,
i. Q 201
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
Mansing the leper, being unfortunately of the same
caste as Chanden Sing, became my servant's servant.
The two Hindoos constantly quarrelled and fought, but
at heart they were the best of friends. The bearer, by
means of promises, mingled at intervals with blows, event-
ually succeeded in inducing his protege to join in our new
plan and face with us the unknown dangers ahead.
CHAPTER -XXXII
"DEVIL'S CAMP" A FIERCE SNOW-STORM ABANDONING OUR TENTS-
DANGERS AND PERILS IN PROSPECT COLLECTING THE MEN ONE
LOAD TOO MANY ! ANOTHER MAN WANTED AND FOUND A PRO-
PITIOUS NIGHT GOOD-BYE TO WILSON THE ESCAPE BRIGANDS
BY eight o'clock in the evening I had collected all the
men who had promised to follow me. They comprised my
bearer, Kachi, and six coolies.
We named this camp " Devil's Camp," for diabolical in-
deed was the wind that shook our tents, not to- speak of
the snow blown into our shelters by the raging storm.
During the night the wind grew in fury. Neither wood,
dung, nor lichen for fuel was to be found. Our tents were
pitched at 16,900 feet above sea-level, and to ascend to
the summit of the range would mean a farther climb of
two thousand feet. In such weather the difficulties of
the ascent were increased tenfold, though for evading the
vigilance of the Tibetan watchmen, who spied upon our
movements, we could have no better chance than a dirty
niorht like this. I arranged with the doctor that he was
o o
to take back to Garbyang all the baggage I had discarded
and the men who had declined to follow me. He must
display all our tents until in the afternoon of the next day,
so as to let the Tibetans suppose that we were all under
them, and give me time to make a long forced march be-
fore they could get on our track. Hard as it would be
for us going forward, we would take no tent except the
small tente d'abri, weighing about four pounds. We should,
anyhow, be unable to pitch one for several days, for fear of
203
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
being detected by the Tibetans, who would be soon seen
abroad in search of us. We should have to march long
distances at night, keeping mostly on the summit of the
range, instead of proceeding, like other travellers, along
the valleys, and we must get what little sleep we could
during the day, when we could hide in some secluded spot.
The thought of seeing a fire had to be abandoned for an
indefinite period, because, even in the remote contingency
of our finding fuel at the great altitudes where we should
have to camp, every one knows that a fire and a column
of smoke can be seen at a very great distance, both by
day and night. \Ve pondered and discussed all these
matters before we made a start, and, moreover, we were
fully aware that, if the Tibetans could once lay their hands
upon us, our numbers were too small to offer a stout re-
sistance, and we might well give ourselves up for lost. In
fact, taking things all round, I rather doubted whether the
lives of my few followers and my own were worth more
than a song from the moment of our leaving " Devil's
Camp."
W T ith this full knowledge of what we were undertaking,
we may have been foolish in starting at all, but lack of
determination cannot in fairness be credited as one of our
faults.
The thoughtful doctor had brought with him from our
last camp a few lichens, with which he was now attempt-
ing to light a fire, to cook me a few chapatis before
leaving. Alas! four hours' hard work and an equal num-
ber of boxes of matches failed to produce the semblance
of a flame.
At midnight I sent Chanden Sing and Kachi to collect
the men. Two came trembling into the tent ; the others
could not be roused. I went myself and took them, one
by one, to their loads. They were all cryiiig like children.
204
It was then that I discovered that in the haste and confu-
sion I had made one load too many. Here was a dilemma!
Everything was ready and propitious for our flight, and a
delay at this juncture was fatal. At any cost, I must have
another man.
The moans and groans in the coolies' tent, when I went
in search of one, were pitiful. You would have thought
that they were all going to die within a few minutes, and
that they were now in their last agonies, all because of the
terror of being picked out to follow me.
At last, after endless trouble, threats, and promises,
Bijesing the Johari was persuaded to come. But the
load was too heavy for him ; he would only carry half. To
save trouble, I agreed I would carry the other half myself
in addition to my own load.
We put out our hurricane-lantern, and at 2 P.M., when
the gale was raging at its height, driving the grit and snow
like spikes into our faces, when the wind and cold seemed
to penetrate with biting force to the marrow of our bones,
when, as it seemed, all the gods were giving vent to their
anger by putting every obstacle in our way, a handful of
silent men, half frozen and staggering, left the camp to face
the blizzard. I ordered my men to keep close together, and
we made immediately for the mountain-side, taking care
to avoid the places where we supposed the Tibetan spies
were posted.
We could not have selected a more suitable night for
our escape. It was so dark that we could only see a few
inches in front of our noses. The doctor, silent and with ,
a swelling heart, accompanied me for a couple of hundred
yards. I urged him to return to the tent. He stopped
to grasp my hand, and in a broken voice the good man
bade me farewell and God-speed.
" The dangers of your journey," whispered Wilson, " are
205
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
so great and so numerous that God alone can guide you
through. When I think of the cold, hunger, and hard-
ships you will have to endure, I can but tremble for you."
" Good-bye, doctor," said I, deeply moved.
" Good-bye," he repeated, " good " and his voice failed
him.
Two or three steps and the darkness separated us, but
his touching words of farewell rang and echoed in my ears,
as with sadness I remembered the loyalty and cheerful
kindness of this good friend. The journey towards Lhassa
had recommenced in grim earnest. In'a short while our
ears, fingers, and toes were almost frozen, and the fast-
driving snow beat mercilessly against our faces, making
our eyes ache. We proceeded like so many blind people,
speechless and exhausted, rising slowly higher on the
mountain range, and feeling our way with our. feet. As
we reached greater altitudes it grew still colder, and
the wind became more piercing. Every few minutes
we were compelled to halt and sit close together in
order to keep warm and get breath, as the air was so
rarefied that we could barely proceed under our heavy
loads.
We heard a whistle, and sounds like distant voices. My
men collected round me, whispered " Dakus ! dakus /"
(Brigands ! brigands !) and then threw themselves flat on
the snow. I loaded my rifle and went ahead, but it was
vain to hope to pierce the obscurity. I hearkened. Yet
another shrill whistle !
My Shokas were terrified. The sound seemed to
come from straight in front of us. We slightly altered
our course, winning our way upward slowly and steadily,
until we found at sunrise we were near the mountain-
top. It was still snowing hard. One final effort brought
us to the plateau on the summit.
206
AN EXPOSED CAMP
Here we felt comparatively safe. Thoroughly ex-
hausted, we deposited our burdens on the snow, and laid
ourselves down in a row close to one another to keep
ourselves warm, piling on the top of us all the blankets,
available.
CHAPTER XXXIII
SOUTHEAST WIND HUNGRY AND HALF FROZEN LAKES AT 18,960 FEET
ABOVE SEA- LEVEL COLD FOOD AT HIGH ALTITUDES BURIED IN
SNOW MANSING'S SUFFERINGS FUEL AT LAST
AT i P.M. we woke up, drenched to the skin, the sun
having thawed the thick coating of snow over us. This
camp was at 18,000 feet. The wind from the southeast
cut like a knife, and we suffered from it, not only on this
occasion, but every day during the whole time we were
in Tibet. It begins to blow with great fierceness and
regularity at one o'clock in the afternoon, and it is only
at about eight in the evening that it sometimes abates
and gradually ceases. Frequently, however, the wind, in-
stead of dropping at this time, increases in violence,
blowing with terrible vehemence during the whole night.
As we were making ready to start again, with limbs
cramped and stiff, the sky again became suddenly covered
with heavy gray clouds, and fresh snow fell. There was
no possibility of making a fire, so we started hungry and
half frozen, following a course of 70 (b. m.). We waded
up to our waists through a freezingly cold stream, and,
climbing steadily higher and higher for six miles, we at
last reached another and loftier plateau to the northeast
of the one where we had camped in the morning. The
altitude was 18,960 feet, and we were surprised to find
four lakes of considerable size close to one another on
this high table-land. The sun, breaking for a moment
through the clouds, shone on the snow-covered tops of
208
COLD FOOD AT HIGH ALTITUDES
the surrounding mountains, silvering the water of the
lakes, and making a beautiful and spectacular picture,
wild and fascinating in effect.
O
Hunger and exhaustion prevented full appreciation of
the scene ; nothing could stand in the way of quickly
finding a suitable place to rest our weak and jaded bod-
ies, under the shelter of the higher hills round the pla-
teau, or in some depression in the ground. I was anx-
ious to push across the plateau, and descend on the
northeast side to some lower altitude where we should
more probably find fuel, but my men, half starved and
fagged, could go no farther. Their wet loads were con-
siderably heavier than usual, they panted terribly owing
to the great altitude, and no sooner had we come to a
partially sheltered spot between the larger lake and its
most eastern neighboring sheet of water than they all
collapsed and were unable to proceed. I was much con-
cerned about them, as they refused to take any cold food,
saying it would cause their death. I was really at a loss
to see how they could recover sufficient strength for the
next day's marching. Eventually, by personally pledg-
ing them that they would not die, I persuaded them to
eat a little satoo and ghur. Unfortunately, no sooner had
they eaten some of it, mixed with cold water, than nearly
all were seized with violent pains in their stomachs, from
which they suffered for the greater part of the night.
There is no doubt that experience had taught them
that eating cold food at great altitudes is more dangerous
than eating no food at all, and I regretted my ill-timed, if
kindly meant, advice. One is apt to judge other people
by one's self, and personally I never felt any difference
whether my food was cold or hot.
Soon after sunset the cold was intense. It was still
snowing hard, and our wet garments and blankets were
209
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
now freezing. I lighted a small spirit-lamp, round which
we all sat close together and covered over with our
frozen wraps. I even attempted to cook on the flame
some concentrated broth, but, owing to the high altitude,,
the water was a long time losing its chill, apart from
boiling, and when it was just getting tepid the flame
went out, and I could afford no more spirits of wine to
light it again ; so the cooking had to be abandoned, and
as the night grew colder and colder we huddled together
under our respective blankets in a vain attempt to sleep.
We had made a protecting wall with our baggage, and
my men covered their heads and everything with their
blankets ; but I never could adopt their style of sleeping,
as it seemed to suffocate me. I always slept with my
head uncovered, for not only was it more comfortable,
but I wished to be on the alert should we at any time be
surprised by Tibetans. My men moaned, groaned, and
chattered their teeth convulsively during the night. I
woke many times with a bad pain in my ears from frost-
bite ; my eyes, too, suffered as the eyelashes became cov-
ered with icicles. Every time I tried to open them there
was an uncomfortable feeling as if the eyelashes were
being torn off, for the slit of the eye became fast frozen
directly the lids were closed.
At last the morning came ! The night had seemed
endless. When I tried to raise the blanket in order to-
sit up, it seemed of an extraordinary weight and stiffness.
No wonder ! It was frozen hard, and as rigid as card-
board, covered over with a foot of snow. The thermom-
eter during the night had gone down to 24. I called my
men. They were hard to wake, and they, too, were bur-
ied in snow.
" Ufa ! uta ! uta /" (Get up ! get up ! get up !) I called, shak-
ing one by one, and brushing off as much snow as I could.
210
BURIED IN SNOW
"Baroff bahut" (There is much snow) remarked one
as he put his nose outside his blanket and rubbed his eyes,
smarting from the white glare around us. " Salaam, sa-
hib," added he, as, having overcome his first surprise,
he perceived me, and he waved his hand gracefully up to
his forehead.
The others behaved in a similar manner. Kachi was,
as usual, the last one to wake.
" Oh, Kachi," I shouted, "get up!"
" Oh, bahiyok /" (Oh, father!) yawned he, stretching his
arms. Half asleep, half awake, he looked round as if in a
trance, muttering incoherent words.
" Good-morning, sir. Oh, much snow. Oh, look, sir,
two kiangs there! What is k kiang ' in English?"
" Wild horse."
" ' Wild ' you spell w-i-l-d ?"
" Yes.
Here the note-book was produced from under his pil-
low and the word registered in it.
Odd creatures these Shokas ! The average European,
half starved and frozen, would hardly give much thought
to exact spelling.
Poor Mansing the leper suffered terribly. He groaned
through the whole night. I had given him one of my
wrappers, but his circulation seemed suspended. His
face was gray and cadaverous, with deep lines drawn by
suffering, and his feet were so frozen that for some time
he could not stand.
Again the Shokas would eat nothing, for snow was still
falling. We started towards the northeast. After a mile
of flat we began a steep descent over unpleasant loose
debris and sharp rocks. The progress was rapid but very
painful. Scouring the country below with my telescope,
I perceived shrubs and lichens far down in the valley to
211
the northeast, and also a tent and some sheep. This was
unfortunate, for we had to alter our course in order not
to be seen. We again climbed up to the top of the plateau
and rounded unperceived the mountain summit, striking
a more easterly route. Towards sunset we began our
descent from the latter point, and we crossed the river
with no great difficulty. Having selected a nicely shel-
tered depression in the ground, we pitched my little tente
^Cabri there, by the side of a pond of melted snow. With
natural eagerness we all set out collecting lichens and
shrubs for our fires, and each man carried into camp
several loads of the drier fuel. In a moment there were
three big fires blazing, and not only were we able to cook
a specially abundant dinner and drown our past troubles
in a bucketful of boiling tea, but we also managed to dry
our clothes and blankets. The relief of this warmth was
wonderful, and in our comparative happiness we forgot
the hardships and sufferings we had so far encountered.
With the exception of a handful of satoo, this was the first
solid meal we had had for forty-eight hours. In those
two days we had travelled twenty miles, each of us carry-
ing a weight averaging considerably over sixty pounds.
We were at 16,500 feet, which seemed quite a low eleva-
tion after our colder and loftier camping-grounds. The
reaction was quite pleasant, and for myself I contem-
plated our future plans and possibilities with better hope.
The outlook had changed from our deepest depression to
a condition of comparative cheerfulness and content.
CHAPTER XXXIV
DACOITS NO NONSENSE ALLOWED A MUCH-FREQUENTED REGION
A PLATEAU THE GYANEMA-TAKLAKOT TRACK A DANGEROUS SPOT
SOLDIERS WAITING FOR US BURYING OUR BAGGAGE OUT OF
PROVISIONS A FALL INTO THE GAKKON RIVER A BRIGHT IDEA-
NETTLES OUR DIET
Ix front of us, to the northeast, was a high mountain,
then, farther towards the east, a narrow valley between
two hill ranges, while at 238 (b. m.) a river passed through
a picturesque gorge in the direction of the Mangshan
Mountain.
It was necessary for me to proceed along the valley to
the east, as we should thus save ourselves much trouble,
time, and exertion, though there would be some risk of
our meeting Tibetans, especially bands of dacoits, with
whom this part of Nari Khorsum* is infested. We had,
therefore, to proceed cautiously, especially as my Shokas
seemed no less timid and afraid of these folks. We had
hardly gone half a mile over the undulating country, and
I had stopped behind my men to take some observations
with my prismatic compass, when my carriers suddenly
threw themselves flat on the ground and began to retreat,
crawling on hands and knees.
O t
" Daku! DakuT ( Brigands! brigands!) they whispered
as I got near them.
It was too late. We had been seen, and a number of
dacoits, armed with matchlocks and swords, came rapid-
* Nari Khorsum name of that province.
I. R 213
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
ly towards us. It has always been my experience that,
in such cases, the worst thing to do is to run away, for
nothing encourages a man more than to see that his op-
ponent is afraid of him. I therefore loaded my Mann-
licher, and my bearer did likewise with the Martini-
Henry. I gave orders to the Shokas to squat down by
SHEEP CARRYING LOAD
their respective loads and not stir an inch. We two
strolled towards the fast-approaching band, now less than
a hundred yards distant. I shouted to them to stop, and
Chanden Sing signalled that they must go back ; but
they took no notice of our warnings, and came on all the
faster towards us. Undoubtedly they thought that we
were only Shoka traders, and looked, from experience, to
find an easy prey. Making ready to rush us as soon as
they got near enough, they separated with the obvious
intention of taking us on all sides.
"Dushu! Dus/iuf" (Go back! Go back!) I cried
214
DACOITS PUT TO FLIGHT
angrily at them, raising my rifle to my shoulder and taking
a steady aim at the leader. Chanden Sing followed suit
with one of the others, and this seemed to have a salutary
effect on them, for they immediately made a comical sa-
laam and took to their heels, Chanden Sing and I pur-
suing them for some distance so as to get them well out
of our way. Having occupied a prominent position on a
small mound, we discovered that a short way off they had
a number of mates and some three thousand sheep, pre-
sumably their last loot. We signalled that they must
get away from our course, and eventually, driving their
booty before them, they scurried off in the direction I
indicated. When they were well clear of us, and my
Shokas, who thought their last hour had come, had
partly recovered from their fright, we proceeded on our
journey, entering the narrow valley between the two hill
ranges. That we were now in a much -frequented re-
gion could be plainly seen from the numerous camping-
grounds alongside the stream. But our success of the
morning had raised our spirits, and we stepped out
cheerily, keeping to the left bank. A steepish climb
brought us to a plateau at an altitude of 16,400 feet,
from which we obtained a fine view of the snow range
running from east to west from the Mansrshan Moun-
O O
tain to the Lippu Pass, and beyond to the northeast the
four lofty peaks of Nimo Nangil, 25,360 feet, 22,200 feet,
22,850 feet, 22,670 feet. The highest peaks were at 84,
92, 117 (b. m.). This plateau sloped gently, and was
broken by many deep crevasses, conveying the water-flow
down into the Gakkon River.
On the lower portion of this plateau, and then along
the course of the river, a track ran from Gyanema to
Jaklakot via Kardam and Dogmar, and another seldom-
frequented track to Mangshan, south -southwest of this
215
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
place. The edge of the plateau was 15,800 feet above
sea-level, and the river 550 feet lower.
This was for us a very dangerous spot, since, no doubt,
by this time the Tibetans must be aware that I had es-
caped and was well on my way into their country. I
knew that soldiers and spies must be guarding all the
tracks and searching for us. This thoroughfare, being
more frequented than the others, was all the more inse-
cure, and we had to display great caution in order to
avoid detection. In Tibet, I may here note, the atmos-
phere is so clear that moving objects can be plainly seen
at exceptionally long distances. I scoured the country
with my telescope, but I could see no one, so we went on.
However, my men considered it safer to descend into
one of the numerous creeks, where we should be less ex-
posed, but we had hardly reached the border of it when
we heard noises rising from the valley below.
Crawling on our stomachs, my bearer and I peeped
over the edge of the plateau. Some five hundred feet
below was a Tibetan encampment, with a number of yaks
and ponies grazing. Unnoticed, I watched them for
some time. There were several soldiers, most probably
posted there on the lookout for me. With my glass I
recognized some of the Gyanema men. We deemed it
advisable to find a spot where we could hide until night
came. Then, making a detour, we descended to the
river, 15,250 feet, scrambled across in the dark, and made
our way up a narrow gorge between high cliffs until we
came to a well-hidden spot, where I called a halt. Fol-
lowed by my men, I climbed up from rock to rock on the
cliff to our left, and found a small natural platform, shel-
tered by a huge bowlder projecting over it. This seemed
a safe enough spot for us to stop. We dared not put up
a tent, and we took the precaution of burying all our
216
OUT OF PROVISIONS
baggage in case of a surprise during the night. Un-
hampered, we should at any moment be able to hide our-
selves away from our pursuers or run before them, and
we could always come back afterwards for our things if
an opportunity offered itself.
And now, just as everything seemed to be running
smoothly, I made a terrible discovery. At this stage of
the journey, when it was important for me to move very
rapidly, I found that we were out of provisions. This
was indeed an unpleasant surprise, for before leaving the
larger body of my expedition I had given orders to my
men to take food for ten days. The doctor, who had
been deputed to see to this, had assured me that the
loads contained quite enough to last us over that length
of time, and now for some unaccountable reason we
had only sufficient food for one meagre meal. More-
over, I discovered that we had only a few grains of salt
left.
" What have you done with it ?" I inquired, angrily, as
it immediately flashed across my mind that there had
been foul play among my carriers. I had ordered each
man to take half a seer (one pound) of salt.
" Yes, sahib, but we forgot to take it," said the men in
a chorus.
After the terrible hardships and fatigue we had gone
through, and the anxiety and difficulty of carrying on my
surveying, photography, sketching, writing, collecting,
etc., under conditions of unusual discomfort and risk, it
was indeed a hard blow to me to see all my plans thus
unexpectedly frustrated, for we were still three or four
days' journey from Mansarowar, where I relied on getting
fresh supplies. Having come thus far, should I be com-
pelled now to go back or give in, and be captured by
the Tibetan soldiers whom I had so successfully evaded ?
217
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
Though not usually much affected by physical pain, I
unfortunately suffer greatly under any mental stress. I
felt quite ill and depressed, and, to add bodily discomfort
to my moral sufferings, was the fact that I had slipped,
while jumping in semi -darkness from stone to stone
across the Gakkon River, and had fallen flat into about
four feet of water. The wind was very high at the time,
and the thermometer down to 26, so that, sitting in my
wet clothes to discuss our present situation with my men,
I suddenly became so cold, shivery, and exhausted that I
thought I was about to collapse altogether. My usual
good spirits, which had done much towards carrying me
so far, seemed extinguished ; my strength failed me en-
tirely, and a high fever set in, increasing in violence so
fast that, notwithstanding my desperate struggle not to
give in, I became almost delirious. With my teeth chat-
tering and my temperature at its highest, I saw all my
troubles assume an exaggerated form, and failure seemed
inevitable. The more I ransacked my brain the more
hopeless seemed our position, until, when I was almost in
despair, an expedient suddenly flashed across my mind
an idea more adapted for romance, perhaps, than real life,
yet not, I hoped, impossible to be carried into execution.
Four of my men should go disguised, two as traders and
two as beggars, into the Takla* fort, and purchase food
from my enemies. We, remaining in camp, would in the
mean time keep well hidden until they returned. I spoke
to my followers, and, after some easily conceivable reluc-
tance, four Shokas undertook to perform the daring duty.
Discovery would mean to them the loss of their heads,
probably preceded by cruel tortures of all kinds ; so,
though they eventually betrayed me, I cannot help giving
* Takla khar or Taklakot Takla fort.
218
BREAKFASTING ON NETTLES
them credit for the pluck and fidelity they displayed in
the present emergency.
During the night my men were extremely good to me.
We did not sleep for fear of being surprised by the Tib-
etan soldiers, and we passed hour after hour listening to
Shoka stories of brigands and Tibetan tortures, terrible
enough not only to keep us awake, but to make every
hair on our heads stand on end. Early in the morning,
when it grew light, we gathered a quantity of nettles,
which were to be found in profusion at this camp, and,
having boiled them in different fashions, we made of them
a hearty if not an appetizing meal. They did not seem
very unpalatable at the time, only it was unfortunate that
we had no more salt, for that would have added to the
digestibility of our prickly diet. We supplied the defi-
ciency by mixing with them a double quantity of pepper,
and it was a relief to know that, while nettles existed near
our camp, we should at least not die of starvation.
219
CHAPTER XXXV
.ALL THAT REMAINED OF MY MEN'S PROVISIONS THE PLAN TO ENTER
THE FORT APPEARANCE OF YAKS A BAND OF BRIGANDS ERECTING
FORTIFICATIONS CHANGES IN THE TEMPERATURE SOLDIERS IN
SEARCH OF US
THE food supply for my men was now reduced in all
to four pounds of flour, two pounds of rice, and two
pounds of satoo. This we gave to the four men who
were to attempt to enter Taklakot, for their road would
be long and fatiguing. For us there were plenty of net-
tles to fall back upon.
I carefully instructed the four Shokas how to enter the
Tibetan fort one by one in their disguises, and purchase,
in small quantities at a time, the provisions we required.
When a sufficient amount was obtained to make a load,
a man should immediately start towards our camp, and
the others were to follow separately for a few marches,
when at a given spot they would all four meet again and
return to us. It was exciting work to prepare the differ-
ent disguises and arrange for everything, and at last, after
repeated good-byes and words of encouragement, the four
messengers left on their perilous errand. All seemed
very quiet round us, so quiet that I unburied my sextant
and artificial horizon, and was taking observations for
longitude as well as for latitude (by double altitudes, as
the angle was too great to be measured at noon), when, to
our dismay, a herd consisting of over a hundred yaks ap-
peared on the pass north of our camp and slowly ad-
vanced towards us. Were we discovered ? Were the
220
A NARROW ESCAPE
Tarjum's men coming, preceded by their animals? No
time was to be lost; instruments and blankets were quick-
ly cleared away and hidden, and then, crawling up tow-
ards the animals, who had stopped on perceiving us, we
threw stones at them in order to drive them down the
next creek. As luck would have it, we were just in time
to do this, for from our hiding-place on the summit of the
pass we could see, on the other side, a number of Tib-
etans following the yaks we had driven away. They
passed only a couple of hundred yards below us, evident-
ly quite unconscious of our presence. They were sing-
ing, and apparently looking for somebody's tracks, for
they often stooped to examine the ground. Later in the
afternoon I went to reconnoitre down the Gyanema road,
and in the hope of watching, unseen, the Tibetans who
passed on their way to and from Taklakot. I saw no
soldiers, but a strong band of Jogpas (brigands), driving
before them thousands of sheep and yaks, was an interest-
ing sight. They all rode ponies, and seemed to obey
their leader very smartly, when in a hoarse voice, and
never ceasing to turn his prayer- wheel, he muttered
orders. They went briskly along in fine style, women as
well as men riding their ponies astride. The men had
matchlocks and swords, and each pony carried, besides its
rider, bags of food slung behind the saddle. I watched
the long procession from behind some rocks, and felt
somewhat relieved when the last horseman, who passed
only some twenty yards from me, rode away with the rest
of the caravan. I retraced my steps, and, judging that
this camp was not quite so safe as I had at first supposed,
I proceeded, with the aid of my men, to erect a rough in-
trenchment and wall round our platform, along the rock
under which we lived. These bulwarks answered the
double purpose of sheltering us from the sight of the Tib-
22 I
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
etans and of acting as fortifications in case of a night at-
tack. All our things were buried a little way above our
camp.
Another long, dreary day had elapsed. We had used
our last grain of salt ; and yet another day on nettles alone;
and a third day and a fourth on the same diet! How
sick we got of nettles ! The days seemed endless as, lying
flat on a peak above our camp, I remained hour after hour
scanning with my telescope the long plateau above the
Gakkon River in search of our returning messengers.
Every time I perceived men in the distance my heart
leaped, but on focusing them with my glass they turned
out to be Jogpas (bandits), or Dogpas (nomad tribes of
smugglers), or travelling Humlis or Jumlis, on their way
to Gyanema and Gartok. And how many times did we
not listen and then anxiously peep through the fissures in
our fortifications when some unusual noise struck our ears !
As time went on, and they did not put in an appearance,
we began to entertain doubts as to their safety or would
they betray us and never return ? Or, as was more likely,
had they been caught by the Jong Pen (the master of the
fort), and been imprisoned and tortured ?
My bearer, who was somewhat of a bon vivant, declined
to eat any more food, as he said it was better not to eat at
all than to eat the same thing constantly. He swore he
could fast for ten days, and he made up for want of food
by sleeping.
My fortified abode was comfortable enough during the
morning, when the sun shone on it, though often it got so
warm that we had to abandon it in the middle of the day,
when the thermometer registered as much as 120, 122,
and even 124. From i P.M. till 10 at night a bitter wind
blew from the southeast, and seemed to get right into our
bones; so cold was it that the temperature suddenly
222
BEHIND OUR BULWARKS
BEHIND OUR BULWARKS
dropped down to 60, and even lower, the moment the sun-
disappeared behind the mountains, and continued to fall
as low as 40, 34, and 32 the minimum during the night.
One night we had a terrible gale and a snow-storm. Such
was the force of the wind that our wall was blown down
upon us as we slept in its shelter, and the hours we had
dedicated to rest had to be spent in repairing the damage
done. On the following morning we were gathering
nettles for our meal, when we heard the distant tinkling
of fast-approaching horse-bells. We quickly put out the
fires, hid our things, and hastened behind our intrench-
ment. I seized my rifle ; Chanden Sing loaded the Mar-
tini. A Shoka who was too far off to reach our fortified
abode in time screened himself behind some rocks. In
the nick of time ! Half a dozen sepoys with matchlocks,
to which were attached red flags, slung over their shoulders,
were cantering gayly up the hill-side only a few yards in
front of us. They were undoubtedly searching for me,
judging by the way they looked in every direction, but
fortunately they never turned towards the castle walls that
concealed us. They were expecting, I presume, to see a
large European tent in one of the valleys, and never even
dreamed that we should be where we were. We covered
them well with our rifles, but we had no occasion to fire.
They rode on, and the sound of their horse -bells grew
fainter and fainter as they disappeared behind the pass.
To be sure, these horsemen could only be soldiers de-
spatched by the Tarjum to guard this track. They were
now probably on their way back to him, satisfied that the
sahib was not to be found in that part of the country.
223
CHAPTER XXXVI
"TERROR CAMP" TWO MORE MESSENGERS LEAVE CAMP A TRIBE OF
DOGPAS A STRANGE SAHIB OUR MESSENGERS RETURN FROM TAK-
LAKOT THE ACCOUNT AND ADVENTURES OF THEIR MISSION IN
GREAT DISTRESS TWO FAKIRS WHO SUFFERED THROUGH ME FIVE
HUNDRED RUPEES OFFERED FOR MY HEAD THE SHOKAS WANT TO
ABANDON ME A PLOT HOW IT FAILED
WE named this spot " Terror Camp," for many and
horrible were the experiences that befell us here. Another
weary day dragged slowly to its close, and there was still
no sign of the messengers' return. Two men volunteered
to go into Kardam, a settlement some miles off, and try
to obtain food from the Tibetans. One of them had a friend
at this place, and he thought he could get from him suf-
ficient provisions to enable us to go on a few days longer.
They started, disguised as pilgrims, a disguise not dif-
ficult to assume, for their clothes were falling to pieces
owing to the rough marching we had done of late. They
were away the whole day, and only returned late at night,
having an amusing tale to tell. Meeting a tribe of Dog-
pas, they had boldly entered their camp, asking to purchase
food. Unfortunately the Dogpas had not sufficient for
themselves, and could not spare any. Incidentally my
men were informed that Lando Pleuki\\\e name the
Tibetans had given me had taken a large army of men
into Tibet, and that great excitement prevailed at Takla-
kot as well as at other places, owing to the fact that the
sahib had the extraordinary power of making himself in-
visible when the Tibetan soldiers were in his vicinity. He
224
PAINFUL UNCERTAINTY
had been reported as having been seen in many places in
Tibet; soldiers had been despatched in all directions to
capture him. His tracks had several times been discov-
ered and followed, and yet he could never be found. Mes-
sengers had been hastily sent out from Taklakot to Lhassa
(sixteen days' journey), and to Gartok, a great bazaar in
West Tibet, asking for soldiers to assist in the capture of
this strange invader, who was also said to have the power
of walking on the water when crossing the rivers and of
flying over mountains when he chose. When I recalled
our struggles and sufferings in climbing over the moun-
tains and in crossing the streams on our journey, this ac-
count of myself given by the Tibetans, and now repeated
to me, struck me as almost cruelly ironical. Anyhow, I
was pleased that the Tibetans credited me with such su-
pernatural powers, for it could hardly fail to be an ad-
vantage in keeping them from getting to too close quar-
ters with us.
Three more days had to be spent in a state of painful
uncertainty and anxiety regarding the fate of our mes-
sengers to Taklakot. On the night of the 3d we had re-
tired to our fortress in despair, fearing that they had been
captured and probably beheaded. It was 10 P.M., and we
were worn out and ready to turn in ; our fire down below
at the bottom of the creek was slowly dying out, and
nature around us was still and silent, when I suddenly
heard sounds of approaching steps. We listened, peep-
ing through the fissures in our wall. Were these Tib-
betans trying to surprise us in our sleep, or could they
be our men returning at last?
We closely watched the gorge from which the sounds
came, faint sounds of voices and of footsteps. Silent as
we were, there were not wanting signs of the nervous ex-
citement of my men. At last four staggering figures
i. s 225
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
crawled cautiously into camp, and we could not even then
discern in the dim light whether these were our messen-
gers or not.
" Kuan /iai?" (Who is there ?) I shouted.
" Dola !" replied a voice, and instantly we gave them a
joyful and hearty greeting. But our happiness was not
to last long. The men did not respond. They seemed
quite exhausted and apparently terrified. I asked them
to explain the cause of their distress, but, sobbing and em-
bracing my fet, they showed great disinclination to tell
me. Grave, indeed, was the news they brought, presag-
ing much trouble in store.
" Your days are numbered, sahib," at last cried Dola.
" It is impossible for you to get out of this country alive;
they will kill you, and the Jong Pen of Taklakot says that
he must have your head at all costs."
" Do not look fco far ahead, Dola," I replied, trying to
calm him, " but tell me first how you reached Taklakot."
"Oh, sahib, we followed your plan. We suffered much
on the road, as the marches were long and severe, and we
had very little food. We walked day and night for two
days, keeping away from the track, and hiding whenever
we saw any one. When we got near the Tibetan fort we
saw at the foot of the hill a few tents of the Tinker and
Chongur Shokas from Nepal. None of the Biassi or
Chaudassi Shokas had been allowed to enter Tibet owing
to the Jong Pen's anger with them regarding his claims
for Land Revenue. There was a guard day and night at
the river, and a sharp lookout was kept to stop and arrest
anybody entering the country. Two fakirs, who were on
a pilgrimage to the sacred Mansarowar, unaware of the
dangers, had crossed over the Lippu Pass, and had pro-
ceeded down to Taklakot, where they were immediately
seized and accused of being you, sahib, in disguise. As
226
the Tibetans were not quite certain as to which of the two
was the real sahib, they severely punished both, beating
them almost to death. What became of them afterwards
we were unable to learn. Anyhow, the Tibetans subse-
^uently found out that you had entered Tibet by another
pass, and soldiers have been sent in every direction to
look for you.
" No sooner did we appear at Taklakot," sobbed Dola,
" than we were pounced upon, knocked about, and ar-
rested. They cross-examined us closely. We professed
to be Johari traders, who had run out of food, and had
made for Taklakot to buy provisions. They beat us and
treated us badly, until your friend Zeniram, the head vil-
lage man of Chongur (in Nepal), came to our rescue and
gave thirty rupees surety for us. We were then allowed
to remain in his tent, guarded by Tibetan soldiers. We
secretly purchased from him and packed the provisions,
and at night Zeniram succeeded in decoying the soldiers
that were guarding us into his tent, and gave them ctiokti
to drink until they became intoxicated. One by one we
four succeeded in escaping with our loads. For three
nights we marched steadily back, concealing ourselves
during the day for the sake of safety. Now we have re-
turned to you, sahib."
Dola paused for a minute or two.
" Sahib," he continued, " we were told in Taklakot that
over a thousand soldiers are searching for you every-
where, and more are expected from Lhassa and Sigatz,*
whither the Jong Pen has hastily sent messengers. They
fear you, sahib, but they have orders from Lhassa to capt-
ure you at all costs. They say that you can make your-
self invisible when you like, and exorcisms are made and
* Sigatz, usually called " Shigatze" by English people.
227
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
prayers offered daily so that in future you may be seen
and arrested. Once caught, they will have no pity on you,
and you will be beheaded, for the Jong Pen is angry with
you owing to the defiant messages you sent him from Gar-
byang. He has given orders to the soldiers to bring you
back dead or alive, and whoever brings your head will re-
ceive a reward of five hundred rupees."
" I had no idea that my head was so valuable," I could
not help exclaiming. " I shall take great care of it in the
future."
As a matter of fact, five hundred rupees in Tibet repre-
sents a fortune, and the man possessing it is a very rich
man.
But my men were not in a laughing mood, and they
looked upon the whole affair as very serious.
I orave a handsome backshish to the four men who had
O
brought the provisions, but that did not prevent all the
Shokas declaring that the danger was so great that they
must leave me there and then. Appeals are useless on
such occasions, and so I simply stated that I should shoot
any man attempting to leave camp. Having now pro-
visions for ten days, I informed them that we must at
once push on.
Sulky and grumbling, they left our fortified corner and
went below to the creek. They said they preferred sleep-
ing down there. I suspected them, however, and I sat
up watching them and listening instead of sleeping. My
bearer rolled himself up in his blanket, and, as usual, was
soon asleep. The Shokas lighted a fire, sat round it, and
with their heads close together held an excited council
in semi-whispers. In the heated discussion some spoke
louder than they imagined, and, the night being particu-
larly still and the place well adapted for carrying sound, I
overheard words which put me on the alert, for I soon con-
228
A PLOT
vinced myself that they were arranging to sell my head-
yes, and to divide the money.
The men got closer together and spoke so faintly
that I could hear no more. Then they each in turn
placed one hand above the other along a stick, until the
end of it was reached ; each man then passed it to his
neighbor, who went through the same form a compli-
cated manner of drawing lots, common among the
Shokas. Eventually the man selected by fate drew from
a load a large Gourkha kukri and removed its scabbard.
A strange, almost fantastic impression remains on my
mind of the moment when the men, with their faces
lighted by the small flame of the flickering fire, all
looked up towards my eyrie. The culminating-point of
their treachery had come, and their countenances seemed
ghastly and distorted, as seen from the fissure in the wall
behind which I knelt They listened to hear if we were
asleep. Then all but one rolled themselves in their
blankets, completely covering their heads and bodies.
The one figure I could now see sat up by the fire for
some time, as if absorbed in thought. Every now and
then he turned his head up towards my fortress and lis-
tened. At last he got up, and with his feet smothered
the fire. It was a lovely night, and as soon as the red-
dish flame was put out the stars shone again like dia-
monds in the small patch of deep-blue sky visible above
my head.
I rested the barrel of my rifle on the wall, my eyes be-
ing fixed on the black figure down below. I watched as,
stooping low, it crawled step by step the few yards up to
my abode, pausing to listen each time that a rolling
stone caused a noise. He was now only two or three
yards away, and seemed to hesitate. Drawing back, and
ready to spring up, I kept my eyes fixed on the top of
229
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
the wall. I waited some time, but the man was in no
hurry, and I grew impatient
I slowly got up, rifle in hand, and as I raised my head
above the wall I found myself face to face with the man
on the other side. I lost no time in placing the muzzle
of my Mannlicher close to his face, and the perplexed
Shoka, dropping his kukri, went down on his knees to
implore my pardon. After giving him a good pounding
with the butt of my rifle, I sent him about his business.
The man lacked the qualities of a murderer, but I felt I
had better see that no other disturbance took place dur-
ing the night. It is true that two men attempted to
crawl out of camp and desert, but I discovered this and
stopped them in time. At last the sun rose, and the
night gave way with all its troubles and anxieties.
CHAPTER XXXVII
A TIBETAN GUARD'S ENCAMPMENT NATTOO VOLUNTEERS TO BE A
GUIDE TREACHERY AND PUNISHMENT OF THE SHOKAS ALL WAYS
FORWARD BARRED TO ME EVADING THE SOLDIERS BY ANOTHER
PERILOUS MARCH AT NIGHT MANS1NG AGAIN LOST A MARVELLOUS
PHENOMENON SUFFERINGS OF MY MEN SEVERE COLD
ON my last scouting journey up the hill above the
camp I had espied by the aid of my telescope the en-
campment of a guard of Tibetans about three miles north
of us, and I informed my followers of this fact
In the morning, when we again dug up the main part
of our baggage and made ready to start, one of the men,
the Kutial Nattoo, came forward and professed to be
able to guide us directly to the Mansarowar Lake. He
seemed very anxious to undertake this task, saying that
there would be no chance of detection by the route he
knew, and consequently we might march during the day-
time.
We started up the creek, led by this man, and I was
astonished at the willingness with which the Shokas
agreed to proceed. In a little time I felt convinced that
he was deliberately taking us to the spot I most wished
to avoid. On my remonstrating and stopping farther
progress in that direction, the Shokas mutinied, and, de-
positing their loads, tried to escape, but my bearer quick-
ly barred their way ahead in the narrow creek and I
prevented their escape from the opposite side, so they
had to surrender. Painful as it was to me, I had to
severely punish them all, and while I took care that no
231
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
one should bolt, Chanden Sing took special pleasure in
knocking them about until they were brought back to
their senses. On being closely cross-examined they
openly confessed that they had made a plot to hand me
over to the Tibetan guard, in order to escape the horrors
of torture by the Tibetans. This last act of treachery,
coming after what had happened during the night, and
from the very men whom I had just been more than leni-
ent towards, was too much for me, and I used a stick,
which Chanden Sing handed me, very freely on their
backs and legs, Nattoo the Kutial receiving the largest
share of blows, because he was undoubtedly the head of
the conspiracy.
On climbing to a point of vantage, I now further dis-
covered that, besides the guard we had to the north of
us, both east and west our way was barred by Tibetan
soldiers ; and although it was not possible to get on dur-
ing the day without being seen, I absolutely refused to
go back south. I held a palaver with my men, who were
apparently resigned, and they agreed to accompany me
as far as the Maium Pass (on the road to Lhassa), which
we reckoned to be some fifteen or eighteen marches.
They further agreed to endeavor to obtain yaks and food
for me, and I was then to dismiss them. From the sum-
mit of the hill I had climbed I had taken careful bear-
ings, and when night came, aided by my luminous com-
pass, I led my men high up along the mountain range at
an average elevation of 1500 feet above the Gyanema-
Taklakot track.
The night was dark and stormy, and we encountered
much difficulty in our journey forward owing to the slip-
pery ground, alternated with the ever-troublesome loose
debris and shifting rocks. We could not see far ahead,
and though we well knew from the angle of the slope
232
MANSING LOST
that we were travelling along a precipice, we could not
distinguish anything under us except a peculiarly lumi-
nous streak, far, far down below undoubtedly the river.
I could not explain this luminosity of the water, which
did not seem to come from reflection of the light of stars
or the moon, because the sky was very cloudy at the time.
Moreover, the river had a curious greenish tint quite pe-
culiar to itself, and closely resembling the light produced
by electricity. In the more dangerous spots we had to
proceed for long distances on all-fours, and even then we
felt hardly safe, for we could hear the rattling of the stones
rolling down the steep slope, and by this sound we could
judge that we were proceeding over a precipice of extraor-
dinary height. So difficult and painful was the walking
that it took us four hours to go about three miles; and we
felt so exhausted that from time to time we had to lie
down and rest, shivering with cold, and our hands bleed-
ing from cuts caused by the sharp stones. I mustered
my men. Poor Mansing the leper was missing. When
we last saw him he was moaning under his load, and he
constantly stumbled and fell. Two men were sent in
search, but after an hour's absence they failed to discover
him. The faithful Chanden Sing and the Shoka Dola
were then despatched, as I would not abandon the poor
wretch if by any means he could be saved. After another
hour of anxiety the two returned, bringing the unfort-
unate coolie with them. The poor fellow's hands and
feet were badly cut, and the pain in the latter was so great
that he could not stand erect. He had fallen fainting from
exhaustion, and it was by a mere stroke of luck that in
the darkness Chanden Sing stumbled against his senseless
body. Apart from his life, his loss would have been a
very serious matter for me, as he carried my bedding and
photographic cameras.
233
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
Sleet and rain commenced to fall, and the cold was in-
tense. We continued to climb steadily, Chanden Sing
and I helping the poor leper along. The march soon
became less difficult, as we were following a depression
formed by the action of melting snows, and were sheltered
from the piercing wind which had been hitherto driving
the sleet hard into our faces. We slowly covered some
three miles more, and during that time the storm passed
away, leaving the atmosphere beautifully clear. When we
reached the pass (over 1 7,000 feet), a curious optical phe-
nomenon astonished us all. The larger stars and planets,
of a dazzling brilliancy such as I had never in my life seen
before, seemed to swing to and fro in the sky with rapid
and sudden jerks, describing short arcs of a circle, and
returning each time to their normal position. The effect
was so weird that the first thing that struck me was that
something had gone wrong with my vision, but my com-
panions saw the same phenomenon. Another curious thing
was that the stars nearer the horizon disappeared and re-
appeared behind the mountain range. The oscillations
of th& heavenly bodies nearer the horizon were less rapid,
but the angle of the arc described measured almost double
that traced by the stars directly above our heads. The
oscillations of these, however, were very much more rapid,
especially at certain moments, when the star itself could
no more be discerned, and a continuous line of light ap-
peared on the deep-blue background of the sky. This
strange optical illusion, which began soon after the storm
had entirely cleared away, lasted some time ; then the
vibrations gradually became less violent, and stars and
planets eventually resumed their normal steadiness, and
shone with great brilliancy and beauty. We crossed the
pass, and halted directly on the northern side of it, for my
men's feet were in such a condition that they could bear
234
SUDDEN CHANGE OF TEMPERATURE
the pain no longer. The minimum temperature was but
12, and, as we had no tent, there was only a blanket be-
tween us and heaven. When we woke in the morning we
found the thermometer had risen to 30, but we were envel-
oped in a thick mist which chilled us to our very marrow.
I had icicles hanging down my mustache, eyelashes, and
hair, and my cheeks and nose were covered with a thin
layer of ice caused by the respiration settling and congeal-
ing on my face.
CHAPTER XXXVIII
NIGHT MARCHING THE LAFAN AND MAFAN LAKES TIZE, THE SACRED
KELAS RHUBARB BUTTERFLIES A HERMIT LAMA MORE DACOITS
SURROUNDED BY THEM ROUTED
DURING our night marches, up and down mountain
ranges of considerable height, we naturally had advent-
ures and escapes far too numerous to relate here in exact
detail, and I shall not give a full description of each march
on account of the unavoidable monotony of such a narrative.
In constant storms of grit and snow we crossed range
after range, travelling during the night and hiding by day,
camping at very great altitudes and undergoing consider-
able privations. I steered my men towards the Rakastal*
Lake, and one day, having risen to 1 7,550 feet, we obtained
a magnificent view of the two great sheets of water, the
Lafan-cho and Mafan-cho, or Rakastal and Mansarowar
lakes, by which latter names they are more commonly
known by non-Tibetans.
To the north of the lakes stood the magnificent Tize,.
the sacred Kelas Mountain, overtopping by some two-
thousand feet all the other snowy peaks of the Gangri
chain, which extended roughly from northwest to south-
east. From this spot we could see more distinctly than
from Lama Chokden the band round the base of the
mountain, which, according to legend, was formed by the
rope of the Rakas (devil) trying to tear down this throne
of the gods.
* Rakastal Devil's Lake, also very frequently pronounced Rakstal.
236
TIZE, THE GREAT SACRED PEAK
Tize, the great sacred peak, is of fascinating interest,
owing to its peculiar shape. It resembles, as I have said,
the giant roof of a temple, but to my mind it lacks the
gracefulness of sweeping curves such as are found in Fuji-
ama of Japan, the most artistically beautiful mountain I
have ever seen. Tize is angular, uncomfortably angu-
lar, if I may be allowed the expression ; and although its
OUR FIRST VIEW OF RAKASTAL
height, the vivid color of its base, and the masses of snow
that cover its slopes give it a peculiar attraction, it never-
theless struck me as being intensely unpicturesque at
least from the point from which I saw it, and from which
the whole of it was visible. When clouds were round it,
toning clown and modifying its shape, Tize appeared at its
best from the painter's point of view. Under these con-
ditions I have thought it very beautiful, especially at sun-
rise, with one side tinted red and yellow, and its rocky
mass standing majestic against a background of shiny
237
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
gold. With my telescope I could plainly distinguish,
especially on the east side, the defile along which the
worshippers make the circuit at the base of the mountain,
though I was told that some pilgrims actually march
round it on the snowy ledge directly over the base and
RAKASTAL AND
just above the darker band of rock described before. On
the southwest side can be seen, on the top of a lower peak,
a gigantic Obo.
The peregrination round Tize usually takes three days,
though some accomplish it in two days, and under favor-
able circumstances it has even been done in one day. It
is usual for the pilgrims to say certain prayers and make
238
TIZE AND HER NEIGHBORS
sacrifices as they proceed, and the more fanatical perform
the journey serpentwise, lying flat on the ground ; others,
again, do it on their hands and knees, and others walking
backward.
Tize, or Kelas, has an elevation of 21,830 feet, and
MANSAROWAR LAKES
Nandiphu, west of it, 10,440 feet; while northwest of the
sacred mountain are visible other summits, 20,460 feet,
19,970 feet, and 20,280 feet. Animal life seemed to-
abound, for while I was sketching the panorama before
me a snow leopard bounded gracefully past us. I had a
shot or two at thar, and we saw any number of kiang.
We found rhubarb, which seemed to be thriving, at so
239
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
high an elevation as 17,000 feet, and quantities of yellow
flowers in the same locality and at the same elevation ;
and at 19,000 feet I netted two couples of small white-and-
black butterflies. They seemed to have great difficulty
in flying, and hardly rose more than two or three inches
off the ground, flapping their wings irregularly; they
seldom flew more than a few feet, and then remained
motionless for long periods before they attempted to fly
again. I had come across the same kind of butterfly at
lower altitudes, 18,600 feet and 17,000 feet, and I invari-
ably found them in couples.
On nearing the lakes the atmosphere seemed saturated
with moisture, for no sooner had the sun gone down than
there was a heavy dew, which soaked our blankets and
clothes. We were at 16,550 feet, in a narrow, marshy
creek, in which we had descended a pic from the last
mountain range. From the summit of the range we had
seen many columns of smoke rising from the neighbor-
hood of the Rakastal Lake, and we judged that again we
must proceed with great caution.
We cooked our food, and in the middle of the night,
for greater safety, we shifted our camp on the summit of
the plateau in a northeasterly direction, and continued
our journey in the morning, high above the magnificent
blue sheet of the Devil's Lake with its pretty islands.
"Sahib, do you see that island?" exclaimed the Kutial,
pointing at a barren rock that emerged from the lake.
" On it," he continued, " lives a hermit Lama, a saintly
man. He has been there alone for many years, and he
is held in great veneration by the Tibetans. He exists
almost entirely on fish and occasional swan's eggs, and
only in winter, when the lake is frozen, is communication
established with the shore, and supplies of tsamba are
brought to him, for they have no boats in Rakastal, nor
240
AN AMUSING INCIDENT
any way of constructing rafts, owing to the absence of
wood. The hermit sleeps in a cave, but generally comes
out in the open to pray to Buddha." During the follow-
ing night, when everything was still, a slight breeze
blowing from the north brought to us, faint and indis-
tinct, the broken howls of the hermit.
" What is that ?" I asked of the Shokas.
" It is the hermit speaking to God. Every night he
climbs to the summit of the rock, and from there ad-
dresses his prayers to Buddha the Great."
" How is he clothed ?" I inquired.
" In skins."
Late in the afternoon we had an amusing incident.
O
We came to a creek in which were a number of men and
women, hundreds of yaks and sheep, and some thirty
ponies.
The Shokas became alarmed, and immediately pro-
nounced the folks to be. brigands. I maintained that
they were not, and as Kachi expounded the theory that
the only way to distinguish Dakus from honest beings
was to hear them talk (the Dakus, he declared, usually
shout at the top of their voices when conversing, and use
language far from select, while well-to-do Tibetans speak
gently and with refinement), I thought the only thing to
do was to go and address the people, when by the tone of
voice we would find out what they were. This, however,
did not suit my Shokas, and we were placed in rather a
curious position, for to proceed we must either pass by
the Tibetan encampment, or we must march southward
round a mountain, which would involve considerable
trouble, fatigue, and waste of time. We waited till night
came, watching, unseen, the Tibetans below us. As is
customary with them, they retired at sundown to their
tents. Leaving my men behind, I crawled into their
i. T 241
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
camp during the night and peeped into one of the tents.
The men were squatting on the ground, round a fire in
the centre, upon which steamed two vessels with stewing
tea. One old man, with strongly marked Mongolian
features, accentuated by the heavy shadows which were
cast by the light of the fire above his angular cheek-
bones and prominent and wrinkled brow, was busily re-
volving his prayer-wheel from left to right, repeating in a
mechanical way the usual "Omne mani padme Jmn" words
which come from the Sanscrit, and refer to the reincar-
nation of Buddha from a lotus flower, meaning, literally,
" O God, the gem emerging from a lotus flower." Two
or three other men, whose faces I could not well see, as
they were stooping very low, were busy counting money
and examining several articles of Indian manufacture,
which undoubtedlv had been seized from Shokas. It
j
was fortunate that they had no dogs in this camp, for
I, having discovered our best way to pass them unper-
ceived, went back to my men and led them, in the mid-
dle of the night, through the camp itself. We proceeded
for a mile or so beyond the encampment, and, having
selected a well-sheltered spot where we could rest with-
out fear of discovery, we laid down our loads and tried
to get a few hours' sleep. Waking at sunrise, we were
startled to find ourselves surrounded by a band of da-
coits. They were our friends of the previous night, who
had followed our tracks, and, mistaking us for Shoka
traders, had now come for a little festive looting. On
drawing near they were given a somewhat warm recep-
tion, and their instant retreat was more speedy than dig-
nified.
242
CHAPTER XXXIX
SPIED AND FOLLOWED BY ROBBERS JOGPAS' HOSPITALITY HARES
TIBETAN CHARMS RESISTED ATTEMPT TO SNATCH CHANDEN SING'S
RIFLE' OUT OF HIS HANDS THE RIDGE BETWEEN RAKASTAL AND
MANSAROWAR LAKES
WE wended our way along a narrow valley towards the
shore of the Devil's Lake, halting to cook our food about
half a mile from the water's edge, and I took this op-
portunity to make observations for longitude and altitude
with hypsometrical apparatus. Water boiled at 185
with temperature of atmosphere at 64.
I had just repacked my instruments, and was lying
flat in the sun, some distance away from my men, when I
thought I saw something move. Jumping up, I beheld
a stalwart Tibetan stealing along the ground only a few
yards away from me, with the object, no doubt, of taking
possession of my rifle before I had time to discover him.
Unfortunately for him he was not quick enough, and all
that he gained for his attempt was a good pounding with
the butt of my Mannlicher. He was one of the Dak us
we had seen in the morning, and no doubt they had fol-
lowed and spied upon us all along. Having got over his
first surprise, the dacoit, with an amusing air of assumed
innocence, requested us to go and spend the night in his
tent with him and his mates. They would treat us right
royally, he said. Being, however, well acquainted with
the hospitality of dacoits, we declined the invitation.
The brigand went away somewhat shaken and disap-
243
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
pointed, and we continued our journey along the water-
edge of the Devil's Lake (Rakastal), where hundreds of
hares sprang from under our feet, several of which I
killed with my rifle, using bullet-cartridges. There were
A DA CO IT
signs all along that at some previous epoch the level of
the lake must have been much higher than it is at
present.
Marching during the day, we encountered many Tibe-
244
DECEIVING THE JOGPAS
tans, some of whom were Dogpas, others Jogpas. When
they saw us approaching they generally bolted, driving
their sheep or yaks in front of them. Nevertheless, we
came upon two Tibetan women, very dirty, and their
faces smeared with black ointment to prevent the skin
from cracking in the high wind. They were dressed in
long sheepskin garments, wornout and filthy, and their
coiffures were so unwashed that they emanated a sick-
ening odor. I ordered them not to come too near us,
for although these females had no claims whatever to
beauty and, as far as I could see they possessed no
other charm, one being old and toothless, the other with
a skin like a lizard they actually tried to decoy us to
their tents, possibly with the object of getting us robbed
by their men. My men seemed little attracted by the
comical speeches and gestures with which they sought to
beguile us, and I pushed on so as to be rid of this un-
canny pack as soon as possible.
Four Tibetans, who attempted to snatch Chanden
Sing's rifle out of his hand, received from him a batter-
ing that they were unlikely soon to forget, and after this
we were fortunately left alone for the remainder of the
day. In the evening Chanden Sing fired at a black
wolf which came close to camp, and I discovered, about
one hundred feet above lake -level, embedded in the
mountain-side, a stratum of gigantic fossils, which, owing
to their size and weight, I regretted to be unable to dig
out and carry away.
Feeling almost certain that we were being spied upon
all the time by the numerous Jogpas we had met, we at-
tempted to dodge them by pretending to encamp before
sunset. However, we only lighted a fine fire, and then
escaped after dark, walking and stumbling for several
miles, until we found a spot high on the hill-side where
245
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
we considered ourselves safe. Snow fell heavily during
the night, and, as usual, we woke up with icicles hanging
from our mustaches, eyelashes, and hair, notwithstand-
ing which we really were quite happy and well.
It was my good-fortune to make quite sure from many
points that, as can be seen from the illustration repro-
duced in these pages, the ridge between the Rakastal and
Mansarowar lakes is continuous, and no communication
between the two lakes exists. With the exception of a
small depression about half-way across, the ridge has an
average height of 1000 feet all along, a fact which ought
in itself to dispose of the theory that the two lakes are
one. I also further ascertained from the natives that
there is no communication whatever between them,
though the depression in the ridge makes it probable
that at a very remote period some connection existed.
The lowest point in this depression is over 300 feet above
the level of the lake.
CHAPTER XL
MORE ROBBERS THE FRIENDS OF TIBETAN AUTHORITIES A SNAP-SHOT
A MEEK LOT PREPOSSESSING FEMALE AND HER CURIOUS WAYS
THE PURCHASE OF TWO YAKS
JUST before leaving the shores of the Rakastal I had a
great slice of luck. It happened thus. We had been
detected by another band of dacoits who were trying their
hardest to overtake us. I had been spying them with my
telescope as they rode in our direction. They were driv-
ing some twenty yaks in front of them at an unusually
fast pace. The dacoits rode ponies. We were about a
mile and a half ahead of them now, and close to the edge
of the Devil's Lake. We saw them coming down the
hill-side at a break-neck speed straight in our direction.
It was evident that they were after us. My men became
terror-stricken when I gave the order to halt.
The band of dacoits approached and left the yaks in
charge of two women. When they galloped in a line tow-
ards us, my men, with the exception of Chanden Sing
and Mansing, were paralyzed with fright.
They were now a hundred yards off. With loaded rifle
in one hand and my camera in the other, I advanced to
meet them, knowing that, with their old-fashioned match-
locks, it takes them a considerable time to light the fuse
and fire a shot. Moreover, it is almost an impossibility
for them to fire on horseback, their weapons being heavy
and cumbersome.
I focused them in my twin -lens photographic appa-
247
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
ratus, and waited till I had them well in the field. I
snapped the shot when they were only thirty yards away,
vaulting over their ponies in the act of dismounting. The
camera, having done its work, was quickly deposited on
the ground, and the rifle shouldered. I shouted to them
to put down their weapons, and to give force to my re-
quest I aimed at them with my Mannlicher.
A meeker lot of brigands I do not believe could be
found, though people of that kind are often brave when
it is easy for them to be courageous. Their matchlocks
were unslung from their shoulders with remarkable quick-
ness and flung to the ground, and their jewelled swords
were laid by the side of their firearms. They went down
on their knees, and, taking off their caps with both hands,
put out their tongues in sign of salute and submission,
and I could not help taking another snap-shot at them in
that attitude, which was comical, to say the least of it.
My bearer, who had been left to look after the baggage,
had placed Mansing in charge, and was now by my side
with the Martini- Henry, when one of the women, riding
astride, arrived on the scene. She was evidently furious
at the cowardice of her men,- and I liked her for that.
She jumped off her steed, ejaculated words at the top of
her voice, shaking her fists at the men still kneeling be-
fore me, and at last, foaming with rage, spat on them.
While thus haranguing the band of highwaymen, she had
an annoying way of pointing at my baggage, but her
speech seemed to have little effect on the submissive
crowd.
I therefore went up to her, patted her on the back,
and gave her a rupee to hold her tongue. She grabbed
the coin and rubbed it on her skin coat to make the
silver shine. She instantly became calm, and, rubbing
the coin until it was quite bright, she raised her fiery eyes,
248
BUYING TWO YAKS
staring into mine, and pulled out her tongue to express
her thanks.
Kachi and Dola, who knew Tibetan well, were now
summoned to address the filibusters for me, and these two
Shokas were in such trepidation that they could hardly
walk, much less speak. After a while, however, seeing
how well I had these supposed terrific rangers under, they
were at last able to translate.
" I want them to sell me some yaks and some ponies,"
I said. " I will pay handsomely for them."
" They say they cannot. The Tarjum will cut their
heads off if he comes to know it. They will only sell one
or two yaks."
"Very good. How much do they want?"
" Two hundred silver rupees. But," added Dola, " sahib,
do not give them more than forty. That is a great deal
more than they are worth. A good yak costs from ten to
sixteen rupees."
After some three or four hours' bargaining, during
which time the bandits descended gradually from two
hundred rupees to forty and I rose from twenty to that
figure, we at last agreed, amid the greatest excitement
on both sides, that their two best yaks should become
my property. I then, becoming quite friendly, purchased
pack-saddles from them, and sundry other curiosities.
They gave me tea, even, and tsamba. The fiery woman
only had still a peculiar way of keeping one eye fixed on
my baggage, and her envy of my property seemed to in-
crease when she saw me paying for the yaks. If she kept
one eye on my goods, I kept both there ; and I took good
care that my rifle was never out of my hand, and that no
one ever came too near me from behind.
We counted the money down, some fifty rupees, includ-
ing all purchases. Each coin was passed round and
249
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
sounded by each of our sellers, and when the entire sum
was handed over the coins were passed back and recount-
PACK-SADDLES FOR YAKS
ed so that there should be no mistake. Time in Tibet is
not money, and my readers must not be surprised when
I tell them that counting, recounting, and sounding the
250
MANAGING YAKS
small amount took two more hours. The two yaks were
eventually handed over to us. One, a huge, long-haired,
black animal, restless and powerful ; the other equally
black, strong, and hairy, but somewhat gentler.
To catch them, separate them from the herd, pass ropes
through their respective nostrils, and tie pack-saddles
on their backs were all operations we as novices had to
master. It was hard work indeed, but we struggled till
we succeeded.
When we parted we were good friends, the bandits be-
having admirably, and I made up my mind that I would
at any time rather trust a bandit in Tibet than an official.
CHAPTER XLI
TIBETAN COATS, HATS, AND BOOTS WHY A TIBETAN PREFERS TO
LEAVE HALF THE CHEST AND ONE ARM BARE ORNAMENTATIONS
MANNER AND SPEECH IGNORANCE AND SUPERSTITION WAY OP
EATING JOGPA WOMEN AND CHILDREN HEAD-DRESS
IN a way, I was sorry when my interview with the Jog-
pas came to an end, for, although they were undoubtedly
brigands, they were certainly interesting. Their original
and curious dress and manner of conversation, their un-
usual but eminently suitable mode of eating, and their
jovial freedom of demeanor were really quite refreshing.
Their dress was quite representative of Tibet, for the men
wore a great variety of coats and hats, probably owing to
the facility with which they obtained them, and no two
individuals were dressed alike, though certain leading
characteristics of dress were conserved in each case. One
man wore a gaudy coat trimmed with leopard-skin, another
had a Ions: ffrav woollen robe like a dressing-grown, taken
o o ^ o o
up at the waist by a kamarband, and a third was garbed
in a loose raiment of sheepskin, with the wool inside. Yet
a fourth was arrayed in a deep-red tunic, fastened by a
belt of leather with silver ornamentations inlaid in wrought-
O
iron to hold a needle-case, tinder-pouch and steel, with a
bead hanging from the leather thong, and a pretty dagger
with sheath of ebony, steel, and filigree silver, besides oth-
er articles, such as a bullet -pouch and bag. In their
kamarbands, or belts, the Jogpas, in common with the
majority of Tibetan men, wear a sword in front, and
whether the coat is long or short, it is invariably loose
252
A STRANGE TIBETAN CUSTOM
and made to bulge at the waist in order that it may con-
tain a store of eating and drinking bowls (the pu-kus\
snuff-box, and sundry
bags of money, and tsam-
ba and bricks of tea ! It
is owing to this custom
that most Tibetan men,
when seen at first, im-
press one as being very
stout, whereas, as a mat-
ter of fact, they are some-
what slight in figure. Tib-
etans leave one arm and
part of the chest bare, let-
ting the sleeve hang loose.
The reason for this prac-
tice, which seems to have
puzzled many people, is
that in Tibet the days are
very hot and the nights
cold (the drop in the ther-
mometer in Southwest Tibet being at times as much as
80, and even 100), and as the Tibetans
always sleep in their clothes, the garments
that protect their bodies from being fro-
zen at night are found too heavy and
warm in the hot sun, and therefore this
simple expedient is adopted. When sit-
ting down, both arms are drawn from the
sleeves and the chest and back are left
bare ; but when on foot, one arm, usually
the left, is slipped in, to prevent the coat
and its heavy contents falling off.
I have no hesitation in pronouncing
253
WHITE WOOLLEN COAT AND SASHES
WOOLLEN SOCKS
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
SNOW-
BOOT
MANS BOOT,
MADE AT SIGATZ
the Tibetan boots, from a utilitarian point of vie\v, as the
best in the world. They have all the advantages a boot
should possess, especially those with flat soles of thick
twisted cord. The upper part,
being made of red and green felt,
keeps the foot warm without pre-
venting ventilation, and plenty of
spreading room is left for the toes
when walking. The felt gaiter,
reaching to just below the knee,
holds the soft sole of the boot flat
under the foot, giving absolutely
free action to the ankle. The most
salient and sensible point in the
Tibetan foot-gear, however, is that the foot, all but the
top part, is incased in the thick sole, thus preventing
the jamming of toes between stones when walking, for
instance, on debris, and also doing away with the ac-
cumulation of snow and mud between the sole and boot,
so inconvenient in our foot-gear. There are many va-
rieties and makes of boots in Tibet,
but the principle is always the
same. The boots are always home-
made, each individual making his
own, except in large towns, where
foot-gear can be purchased, and
necessarily the quality is then not
up to the same high standard. The
difference in Tibetan boots is main-
ly in the quality or texture of the
soles ; for instance, the Lhassa
boots have finer, softer, and more
elastic soles than those made in Sigatz (usually written
Shigatze), which are quite hard and stiff, and supposed to
254
WOMAN S
BOOT
BOOT MADE
IN LHASSA
TIBETAN HEAD-GEAR
wear out much sooner than the more pliable ones of the
sacred city. Then there are some with leather soles,
made specially for wet or snowy regions, and these, when
greased over, are quite waterproof. Two kinds of these are
in use, one with pointed and curled toes, for cutting one's
way into the snow, the other of the usual shape. Men
and women alike wear these boots. The principal Lamas
and officials of Tibet have adopted the Chinese -pattern
boots of leather, with heavy leather or wooden soles and
enormous nails under them.
The Tibetans have innumerable varieties of head-gear.
The most peculiar of all, worn chiefly by soldiers and
dacoits, is one in the form of a section of a cone with
large rim, made entirely of twisted cord like that used for
the soles of the boots, and with a hole at the top for ven-
tilation. The conical part being too small to fit the head,
it is held upon the skull by means of two strings tied
under the chin. There are also conical brown and gray
felt ones, not unlike filters used in chemical laboratories,
and these, when of the better quality, are frequently orna-
mented with gold, blue, or red embroidery of Chinese
manufacture. An impressive head-gear was worn by the
medicine-man attached to the band of robbers I had inter-
viewed. It resembled at first sight an exaggerated jockey's
cap of red silk, but closer examination showed that it con-
sisted of two long strips of red silk, well stretched on a
light frame of bamboo, and at an angle of about 90. This
hat was held on the head by means of a band round the
back of the head, and it projected some fifteen inches over
the forehead. In addition to these, there are of course
common cloth or fur caps, with ear-flaps; and it is not un-
common to see, in Tibet, soldiers wearing a silk kamar-
band bound tightly round the head, turban-fashion, with
one end left hanging down over the ear. The commoner
i. u 255
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
Tibetan, however, is not fond of covering his head, and
though he often has one or more caps stowed away in the
loose folds of his coat, he seldom wears one on his head
under ordinary circumstances. This does
not apply to officials, who are never seen
without a circular cap of Chinese shape,
surmounted by a topknot.
HAT WORN BY J l
OFFICIALS All men, except the Lamas, who shave
their heads clean, wear a pigtail, short and
shaggy at times, or long and ornamented with a piece of
cloth in which it is sewn and passed through rings of
ivory, bone, glass, metal, or coral. Ornaments of silver,
such as perforated coins, are much used in adorning the
men's pigtails, and coral and malachite ornaments are
also common in Tibet for the same purpose, and are
much valued by the natives. Men wear, passed through
the lobe of the ear, an ear-ring with malachite ornamen-
tations, and often with an additional long pendant. It is
usually of brass or silver, and occasionally of gold. More
common than the solitary ear-ring is the brass or silver
charm-box, frequently containing a likeness of Buddha,,
which nearly every Tibetan carries slung round his neck.
Tibetans are, as a rule, excessively superstitious and fond
of charms of every sort. Their superstitions are, of
course, the result of ignorance, and so are most of their
other bad qualities. Except among the higher officials
and the Lamas, education can hardly be said to exist in
Tibet, the population being kept in the most obscure ig-
norance. Few can read, and none can write, and the
Lamas take very good care that only those shall learn
who are likely to be of use.. Honesty and honor are two
qualities almost unknown in any class or condition in
Tibet; and as for truthfulness, all travellers in the country
can testify to the practical impossibility of obtaining it
256
APPEARANCE OF DACOIT WOMEN
from a Tibetan. Cruelty is innate in them, and vice and
crime are everywhere rampant.
That the Jogpas had good digestions was evident from
the way they ate when, having concluded the sale of the
yaks, they squatted down to a hearty meal of tsamba,
chura, and tea. They took from their coats their wooden
and metal pu-kns, and quickly filled them with tsamba ;
pouring over it some steaming tea, made as usual with
butter and salt in a churn, they stirred it round and
round the bowl with their dirty fingers until a paste was
formed, which they rolled into a ball and ate, the same
operation being repeated over and over again until their
appetite was satisfied. Each time, before refilling, the
bowl was licked clean by rotating the pii-ku round and
round the tongue. Feeling the heat of the sun, after
their meal both men and women removed their garments
above the waist, showing ornaments of gold, silver, and
copper encircling their necks.
The women folk of the dacoits, though far from beauti-
ful, possessed a certain charm, arising from their curious
wildness. Unlike those of Tibetan women generally, their
teeth were very good, and their complexions were not spe-
cially dark, the black ointment with which their cheeks,
noses, and foreheads were smeared making them appear
darker than they really were, and being decidedly unbecom-
ing. All had regular features, and their eyes and mouths
were full of expression. Their hair, plaited into number-
less little tresses, was brought up and fastened in a grace-
ful curve over the head, kept firm by a red turban, which
was arranged to show another row of little tresses on the
forehead, the ends being joined in succession to one an-
other. They wore large ear-rings of gold inlaid with
malachite, and were in manner so unaffected that they
disregarded even the most primitive conventions.
257
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
The children were talkative, and had the bearing of
adults. They wore swords in their belts, even at the
early age of eight or ten years. In a basket that had
been carried by one of the yaks I saw an infant only
a few months old. I caressed it, to the horror of his
superstitious mother, who snatched the child away and
washed and rubbed the poor little fellow's face until the
skin was sore, declaring that children die that are touched
by strangers.
The men were just as bad in this, and when I pur-
chased some rice from them they would not let me touch
it till it had become my property. They objected each
time that I stretched out my arm to touch the bag of
rice, and showed me eventually a handful of rice at a
considerable distance, to let me judge of its quality. I
had to purchase only the handful at first. Having as-
sured myself that it was all right, I then purchased the
remainder.
258
CHAPTER XLII
A BAKU'S STRANGE IDEAS THE RIDGE BETWEEN THE TWO LAKES
BLACK TENTS CONFRONTING THE TWO LAKES A CHAIN OF HIGH
PEAKS GOMBAS CHANGE IN THE WEATHER
WE had marched on the same afternoon about half a
mile in the direction of Mansarowar, when we were over-
taken by one of the Dakus whom we had left a short
time before. He rode towards us, apparently in a great
state of excitement. Having dismounted, he drew his
sword and began chasing one of my yaks. This seemed
so strange a proceeding that we were at a loss to under-
stand his intentions ; but as he screamed to us that he
meant no harm, we let him go on. He eventually over-
took one recalcitrant yak, and, after a struggle with the
unfortunate beast, he flung his arms round its neck and
rested his head between its horns. I was anything but
pleased with these antics, fearing that this effusion was
only a dodge to cut the beast's throat. Much to my as-
tonishment, I found that the young Jogpa had seized a
tuft of the yak's hair with his teeth and was trying to
tear it off, while the unfortunate beast was making des-
perate efforts to shake off its persecutor. The hair
eventually gave way, and with a mouthful of it hanging
from both sides of his tightly closed lips the Jogpa now
let go of the animal's head, and, brandishing his sword,
made a dash for its tail.
I seized the man by his pigtail, while he in his turn
clung to the tail of the frightened yak, which, bolting,
dragged us after it at an unpleasant pace.
259
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
The Jogpa, in our mad flight, cut off a long lock of the
yak's silky hair, and, having secured this, appeared to be
quite satisfied, let go and sheathed his sword. He con-
cealed the stolen locks in his coat, and then made pro-
found obeisances to us, putting out his tongue as usual
and declaring that, unless that precaution is taken when
parting with a beast, bad luck is sure to come to you.
This closed the incident ; the Jogpa rode away perfectly
A BLACK YAK
happy, and we continued our march across the stony
plain until we reached the ridge which extends across it
and divides the two sheets of water. We climbed up to
the top, rising to 16,450 feet, and, to make certain that
the ridge really extended right across, I made an expedi-
tion about half - way across, finding the northern part
somewhat lower than the southern, still rising several
hundred feet above the level of the lakes. This expedi-
260
LAKES RAKASTAL AND MAXSAROWAR
tion incurred some loss of time, and when night came we
were still on the ridge.
From our camping-ground we saw fifteen black tents
on the hill-side, and to the east, on the lake shore, there
was a large Gomba, or Lamasery, with a temple and a
number of mud houses. I estimated the distance be-
tween ourselves and the Gomba at only eight miles a
cheering fact, because I hoped to get fresh provisions
there to enable us to proceed more rapidly on our journey.
\Vc were now quite out of reach of the Gyanema sepoys,
as well as of the Barca Tarjum and the Taklakot Jong
Pen, and if we could only obtain a sufficient quantity of
food during the night, and proceed by the jungle early
the next day, there would be little danger of our being
overtaken. The Shokas were, of course, again shaking
with fright at the idea of entering a Tibetan settlement,
but I told them very firmly that we must reach Tucker
Gomba and village that night.
\\ e had below us the two great lakes, and before I left
this magnificent panorama I could not help taking a last
long look at the marvellous scene. The Devil's Lake,
with its broken, precipitous shores, its rocky islands and
outstretching peninsulas, was far more enchanting to me
than the sacred lake at its side, in which, according to
tradition, dwell Mahadeva (pronounced Mahadeve) and all
the other good gods. Although the water is equally blue
and limpid, although each lake has for background the
same magnificent Gangri chain, Mansarowar, the creation
of Brahma, from whom it takes its name, is not nearly so
weirdly fascinating as its neighbor. Mansarowar has no
ravines rising precipitously from its waters, in which their
vivid coloring would be reflected as in a mirror; it is al-
most a perfect oval, without indentations. There is a
stony, slanting plain some two miles wide between the
261
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
water's edge and the hills surrounding it, except along
the ridge separating it from the Rakastal, where its shore
is slightly more rugged and precipitous.
Directly south of the lake is a chain of high peaks
covered with snow, from which several streams descend.
From where we stood we could see evident signs, as in
the case of the Rakastal, that the level of the lake must at
one time have been at least thirty feet higher than it is at
present, and the slanting bed of small rounded and smooth
stones, which extends from one and a half to two miles
beyond the water-line, is evidence enough that the water
must once have been up to that point. I believe that it is
still gradually receding.
Round the lake there are several tumbling-down sheds
in charge of Lamas, but only one important Gomba
(monastery) and temple are to be found viz., at Tucker
village.
I was told that a small Gomba and serai in charge of
Lamas stand to the northwest of the lake, but I cannot
vouch for the accuracy of the statement, as I did not visit
them myself, and the information I received from Tibetans
regarding their position and importance was conflicting.
As the nature of the country suddenly altered between
the Devil's Lake and Mansarowar, so, too, the weather
and the temperature greatly changed. Over the Rakastal
we invariably saw a lovely blue sky, whereas over Man-
sarowar heavy black clouds always lowered and rain fell
incessantly. From time to time the wind blew off the
rain for a few minutes, and lovely effects of light play-
ed on the water, but fresh clouds, with violent bursts
of thunder, soon made the scene again gloomy and de-
pressing.
It was much warmer on the Mansarowar side of the
ridge than on the other, and, probably owing to damp-
262
MANSAROWAR THE HOME OE STORMS
ness, the air seemed quite thick to breathe, instead of
being crisp and light, as it was along the shores of the
Devil's Lake. Indeed, when I recall the Mansarowar, I
cannot help thinking that it is the home not only of the
gods but also of all the storms.
263
CHAPTER XLIII
THE LANGA TSANGPO A TERRIFIC STORM DRENCHED TO THE SKIN
HEAVY MARCHING AGAINST THE GODS DIFFICULTY IN FINDING THE.
LAMASERY AND VILLAGE A BARK! ARRIVAL AT LAST GENTLE
TAPPING UNDER A ROOF
WE descended some two miles to the plain, and crossed
a rapid delta of the Langa Tsangpo, or Langa River ; then
another, a mile farther. As these rivers came directly
from the snows, the water was very cold, and often three
or four feet deep, owing to the thawing of the snow and
ice during the day.
No sooner had we reached the shores of the Mansaro-
war than the heavy clouds which had been hanging over
our heads poured forth such a torrent of rain that in a
moment we were drenched to the skin. We were march-
ing very fast, as all our heavy loads were now on the two-
yaks, but night was well advanced, and the darkness was
such that we could only see a few inches in front of us.
We were actually walking in an inch or two of water, and
a fierce southeast wind drove the rain and hail so hard
into our faces and hands as to cause us considerable pain.
W T e were frozen in our wet garments, and our teeth were
chattering, though- we walked quickly, keeping close to-
gether. From time to time a bright flash of lightning
shone on the lake, followed by a terrific crash of thunder^
and by what we could see during those few seconds of
light we tried to steer our way towards Tucker village
and Gomba.
The rivers, swollen by the rain, were extremely difficult
264
THE HOME OF THE GODS
to cross, and the water seemed to flow so rapidly on the
inclined bed that it was all we could do to keep on our
feet. So wet were we that we did not even take the
trouble to remove our shoes or garments, and we splashed
through, clothes and all. Three times we went into the
freezing water above our waists, and then we marched for
apparently endless miles on the pebbly and stony incline.
\Ve could not see where we were going, and the storm
seemed to grow worse every moment, and we stumbled
on amid large stones and bowlders, and fell over one an-
other on slippery rocks. Farther on we sank up to our
knees in mud, and each time that we lifted afoot it seemed
to be of lead. It was a downpour such as I had seldom
before experienced.
" Are you quite sure, Kachi, that this lake is the home
of the gods ?" I inquired of Kachi. " Why, even on the
Devil's Lake we had better weather than this."
"Yes, sir," replied Kachi. "But you make the gods
angry, and that is why they send thunder, hail, and rain to
stop your progress. You are going on against the gods,
sir."
" Never mind, Kachi. It cannot pour forever."
At midnight we had no idea of our position ; still we
pushed on.
" Have we passed the Gomba ? Have we not yet reached
it?" were the questions we asked each other. It seemed
to me that, at the rate we were going, we ought by now
to be very near the place, and yet after another hour's
tramp we had not struck it. I was under the belief that
we had gone about nine miles, and I expressed the opin-
ion that we had passed it, but the Shokas insisted that we
had not, so we again proceeded.
We had hardly gone five hundred yards when we heard
a faint, distant, and most welcome dog's bark. It came
265
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
from the northwest, and we surmised that it must come
from Tucker. We had steered too far south of the place,
which accounted for our missing it in the darkness.
Guided by the yelping, we hastily directed our steps
towards the settlements. The dog's solitary howl was at
once supplemented by fifty more angry barks, and though
we knew by the sound that we were approaching the vil-
lage, it was so dark and stormy that we could not find the
place. Only when we found ourselves close to the mud
huts could we be certain that we had at last arrived.
It was now between 2 and 3 A.M. The rain still came
down in torrents, and, alas ! there was no sign of any of
the inhabitants bein^ willing to o:\ve us shelter. It was
o o o
quite out of the question to pitch our little tente cfabri,
for our things were already wringing wet.
The noise we made tapping outside a door was deter-
mined, so much so that the door itself nearly gave way.
This was a shelter-house, a serai for pilgrims ; and as we
claimed to be pilgrims, we had, by the laws of the country,
a right to admission. The Kutial Nattoo, who had once
before reached this lake by a different route, led us to this
house.
" You are dacoits," said a hoarse voice from inside, " or
you would not come at this hour."
" No, we are not," we entreated. " Please open. We
are well-to-do people. We will harm no one. and pay for
all."
" Middu, MidduT (Cannot be, no !) " You are dacoits.
I will not open."
To show that we were not what they imagined, faithful
Chanden Sing and Dola tapped again so gently at the
door that the bolt gave way. The next moment ten
strangers were squatting down round a warm fire, drying
their shrivelled- up, soaked skins by the flame of dried
266
AN INHOSPITABLE LANDLORD
tamarisk and dung. The landlord, a doctor, by-the-way,
was reassured when he saw that we had no evil intentions,
and found some silver coins in the palm of his hand. Yet
he said he would rather that we slept somewhere else ;
there was a capital empty hut next door.
On our agreeing to this, he conducted us to the place,
and we spent the remainder of the night there, or rather
the early morning.
267
CHAPTER XLIV
THE INTERIOR OF A. SERAI VERMIN FISH, LOCAL JEWELRY. AND
POTTERY FOR SALE FAVORITE SHAPES AND PATTERNS HOW POT-
TERY IS MADE
OUR abode was a one -storied house built of stones
and mud, with a flat roof. There were two rooms, the
first lighted by the door, the second and larger having a
square aperture in the ceiling for the triple purpose of
ventilation, lighting, and outlet for the smoke of the fire,
which burned directly underneath in the centre of the
room. The beams and rafters supporting the roof had
been brought over from the other side of the Himahlyas,
because no wood is to be found in Western Tibet.
This serai was in charge of a young, half -demented
Lama, who was most profuse in salutations, and who re-
mained open-mouthed, gazing, at us for a considerable
time. He was polite and attentive in helping to dry our
things in the morning, and whenever we asked for any-
thing he ran out of the serai in frantic fits of merriment,
always bringing in what we required.
The heavy storm during the night had flooded our room,
and there was only one corner slightly drier than the rest
of the floor, where we all slept huddled together. These
serais have no claim to cleanliness, and on this occasion
all the minor animal life that inhabited the floor had, with
a view to avoiding the water, retreated to the higher por-
tion of the room, which we also had selected, so that one
more trial was added to all our other miseries, for we were
half devoured by a variety of " insects." This, indeed, was
268
COINS AND JEWELS
a dreadful pest, and one from which we suffered inde-
scribable agonies, not only on this occasion, but whenever
we halted near Tibetan camps. When we rose in the
morning the room was full of Tib-
etan men, women, and children,
who seemed very good - natured
and friendly.
" Tanga chick /" (a silver coin
equivalent to half a rupee) cried
an old woman, who stuck a dried
fish under my nose, professing
volubly that it had been caught
in Mansarowar, and that it would SILVER LHASSA COINS
make the possessor the happiest
of mortals. Others unrolled, from pieces of red cloth,
jewelry in the form of brooches, rings, and ear-rings
of brass or silver inlaid with malachite.
" Gurmoh sum /" (three rupees) ; " Diu, diu, diu " (Yes,
yes, yes); " Karuga nil" (two two-anna pieces); " Gieut-
chcke r (a four-anna piece), and so on, all talking at the
same time in their anxiety to dispose of their goods.
COPPER COINS
EAR-RING WORN BY MEN
The jewelry was of local manufacture, and in some
cases the pieces of malachite were firmly set, but usually
a kind of paste is used for holding the stones, and conse-
quently, pretty as the jewels are, they soon break.
The ear-rings are usually better made than the brooches,
but the most interesting of all, because simpler and more
characteristic, are the flat silver charms, such as the one I
i. v 269
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
SILVER CHARM
give in the illustration below, ornamented with primitive
design. This particular one, which is now in my posses-
sion, is of great antiquity, the edges being much worn
down. It has the lotus pattern in the centre and leaf
ornamentations filled in
with lines radiating from
a parent stem. Concen-
tric circles occupy the in-
ner square, which also con-
tains circular dots in sets
of threes and contiguous
semicircles. Triangles
filled in with parallel
lines are a favorite form
of ornamentation in Tib-
etan work, and perhaps
most popular of all in the
mind of the Tibetan artist is the square or the lozenge
outline, with a special inclination towards purely geo-
metrical patterns, a preference probably inherited from
their Mongolian origin.
The most interesting objects to me at
Tucker were the specimens of pottery
made by the natives, which is manufact-
ured from clay of fine quality, although
it is not properly beaten previous to be-
ing worked into vases, jugs, etc. Moulds
are used to fashion the bases of the larger GOLD-AND-MALA-
vessels, and the inner part is shaped by CHITE BROOCH
the hand ; a rough turning-machine sim-
plifies the finishing of the upper part of the vase, leaving
it comparatively smooth. Two handles with rough line
ornamentations are added to the larger vessels, but one
suffices for the jars with longer neck and small aperture.
270
A TIBETAN FOETUNB TELLER.
MANSAROWAR POTTERY
The two patterns reproduced in the following illustra-
tion are those more commonly adopted ; the color is a
light grayish terra-cotta, left fairly smooth and unvar-
nished. They are well burned, in primitive furnaces, the
Lamas showing much skill in the manufacture of these
MANSAROWAR POTTERY
vessels, which find a ready market among the pilgrims
to the sacred lake. The tools used in fashioning the
vessels are extremely simple a piece of flat stone and
two or three wands of wood, beyond which the Tucker
potter does not really require more than his fingers and
his nails to accomplish his work.
271
CHAPTER XLV
FRIENDLY LAMAS CHANDEN SING AND MANSING PURIFIED MANSING'S
SARCASM PILGRIMS TO MANSAROWAR AND THEIR PRIVILEGES FOR
LUCK ! OUTSIDE THE GOMBA
SEVERAL Lamas came to visit me in the morning, and
professed to be pleased to see me ; in fact, they asked me
to go and pay them a visit in the Lamasery and temple.
They said there was much sickness in the village, and, as
they believed me to be a Hindoo doctor, they wished I
could do something to relieve their sufferings. I prom-
ised to do all I could, and was very glad to have this
unique chance of visiting a Lamasery and of studying
the cases that would be brought before me. I carried
my rifle in my hand even during this friendly visit to the
Lamas.
When I came out of our stuffy, dark room, preceded
and followed by a crowd of inquisitive natives, I had a
good look round this strange village. After the storm
of the night, we did not have the beautiful blue sky that
might have been expected, but over us hung threatening
clouds, while the waters of the sacred lake, softly moved
by the wind, made a gentle lapping sound on the beach.
Chanden Sing and Mansing, the two Hindoos, divested
of all their clothing except a doti, were squatting near
the edge of the lake, having their heads shaved clean by
Bijesing the Johari. I must confess that I was some-
what annoyed when I saw them using my best razor for
the purpose, but I repressed my anger on remembering
SIVA, THE GREATEST OF ALL GODS
that, according to their religion, the fact of being at
Mansarowar absolved them from all sins. My two ser-
vants, with heads turned towards Kelas Mount, seemed
excited, and were praying so fervently that I stood to
watch them. They washed themselves repeatedly in the
water of the lake, and at last plunged into it. On com-
ing out shivering, they each took out of their clothes
a silver rupee and flung it into the lake as an offering
to the God Mahadeva. Then, with hairless faces and
heads, they dressed and came to pay their salaams to
me, professing to be now happy and pure.
" Siva, the greatest of all gods, lives in the waters of
Mansarowar!" exclaimed my bearer, in a poetic mood.
" I have bathed in its waters, and of its waters I have
drunk. I have salaamed the great Kelas, the sight of
which alone can absolve all sins of humanity; I shall now
go to heaven."
" I shall be satisfied if we get as far as Lhassa," grum-
bled the sceptical Mansing, out of ear-reach of the Tib-
etans.
Chanden Sing, who was well versed in religious matters,
explained that only Hindoo pilgrims who had lost both
parents shaved their heads on visiting Mansarowar, as a
sacrifice to Siva, and, if they were of a high caste, on their
return to their native land after the pilgrimage it was
customary to entertain all the Brahmins of the town to a
banquet. A man who had bathed in Mansarowar was
held in great respect by everybody, and commanded the
admiration and envy of the entire world.
The Mansarowar Lake is about forty-six miles round,
and those pilgrims who wish to attain a greater state of
sanctity make a kora, or circuit, on foot along the water-
line. The journey occupies from four to seven days, ac-
cording to circumstances, and one trip round will absolve
273
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
the pilgrim from ordinary sins ; twice the circuit clears
the conscience of any murder ; and three times will make
honest and good a person who has killed his or her father,
mother, brother, or sister. There are fanatics who make
the tour on their knees, others accomplish the distance
lying down flat at each step on their faces, similar to the
pilgrims to Kelas.
According to legend, Mansarovvar was created by
Brahma, and he who shall bathe in its waters will share
the paradise of Mahadeva. No matter what crimes he
may have previously committed, a dip in the holy lake is
sufficient to purge the soul as well as the body. To
please my men, therefore, and perhaps bring myself some
luck, I, too, hurled a couple of coins into the water.
The purifying ablutions being over, I ordered Chan-
den Sing to take his rifle and follow me into the Gomba,
as the Lamas were so polite that I feared treachery on
their part.
The large square building, with its walls painted red
and its flattish dome of gilt copper, rose by the water-
side, and was both picturesque and handsome in its se-
vere simplicity.
There came sounds from inside of deep, hoarse voices
muttering prayers, the tinkling of bells and clanging of
cymbals. From time to time a drum was beaten, giving
a hollow sound, and an occasional and sudden touch
upon a gong caused the air to vibrate until the notes, in
a gradual diminuendo, were carried away over the holy
lake.
274
CHAPTER XLVI
ENTERING THE LAMASERY THE LAMA's DWELLING NOVICES WERE
WE IN A TRAP? IMAGES OBLATIONS URCHIN THE HOLY WATER,
THE VEIL OF FRIENDSHIP, AND ABSOLUTION MUSICAL INSTRU-
MENTS, BOOKS, ETC. GOD AND THE TRINITY HEAVEN AND HELL
A MYSTERY
AFTER Chanden Sing and I had entered into the Lama-
sery, the large door, which had been pushed wide open,
was immediately closed. We were in a spacious court-
yard, three sides of which had two tiers of galleries sup-
ported by columns. This was the Lhaprang, or Lama's
house, and directly in front of me was the Lha Kang, or
temple, the floor of which was raised some five feet above
the level of the ground, with a very large door leading
into it. At this entrance were, one on either side, re-
cesses, in which, by the side of a big drum, squatted two
Lamas with books of prayers before them, a praying-
wheel and a rosary in their hands, the beads of which
they shifted after every prayer. At our appearance the
monks ceased their prayers and beat the drums in an ex-
cited manner. From what I could judge, there was a
commotion in the Gomba. Lamas, old and young, rushed
to and fro out of their rooms, while a number of Chabis,
or novices boys between the ages of twelve and twenty
lined the banisters of the upper veranda with expressions
of evident suspense and curiosity depicted on their faces.
No doubt the Lamas had prepared a trap for us. I
warned Chanden Sing to be on the alert, and set him on
guard at the entrance of the temple, while I, depositing a
275
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
few silver coins on the drum of the Lama to my right,
took off my shoes in sign of respect, and, much to the
amazement of the monks, quietly entered the house of
worship. Partly astonished at the sight of the silver, and
more so at my want of caution, the Lamas, of whom there
was a good number in the court-yard, remained motion-
less and mute. The High Lama, or Father Superior of
the Monastery, at last came forward, stooping low, and
ENTRANCE TO THE TUCKER TEMPLE
placing one thumb above the other, with his tongue hang-
ing out to show his superlative approval of my visit to
the many images representing deities or sanctified Bud-
dhist heroes which were grouped along the walls of the
temple. The largest of these were about five feet high,
the others about three feet. Some were carved out of
wood, their drapery and ornaments being fairly artistic in
arrangement and execution, while others were fashioned
276
INTERIOR OF THE TEMPLE
in gilt metal. There were a number in a sitting posture
and some standing erect, and they all rested on ornament-
ed pedestals or plainer bases painted blue, red, white, and
yellow. Many wore the ancient Chinese double-winged
cap, as used to this day by Corean officials, and were
placed in recesses in the wall decorated with stuffs, wood
carvings, and rough paintings of images.
At the foot of these images was a long shelf, on which,
in bright brass vessels of all sizes, were oblations of
tsamba, dried fruit, chura, wheat, and rice, offered through
the Lamas by the devotees to the different saints.
Some of the ears of barley were ornamented with imita-
tion leaves of murr (butter), colored red, blue, and yel-
low.
The ceiling of the temple was draped in red woollen
cloth similar to that of the clothes worn by the Lamas
themselves, and from it hung hundreds of strips of silk,
wool, and cotton of all imaginable colors. The roof was
supported by columns of wood forming a quadrangle in
the centre of the temple and joined by a balustrade, com-
pelling the worshippers to make a circuit from left to
right in order to pass before the several images. In a
shrine in the central part of the wall facing the entrance
was Urghin, or Kunjuk-chick (God alone), and in front
of it, on a kind of altar covered with a carpet, a collection
of donations far more abundant than those offered to the
other images.
The Lama, pointing at it, told me that it was a good
God, and so I salaamed it and deposited a small offering
in a handy collection -box, which seemed to please the
Lama greatly, for he at once fetched a holy-water am-
phora, hung with long veils of friendship and love, and
poured some scented liquid on the palms of my hands.
Then, producing a strip of veil, he wetted it with the
277
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAM)
scent and presented it to me. The majority of pilgrims
generally go round the inside of the temple on their
knees, but, notwithstanding that, to avoid offending prej-
udices, I generally follow the principle of doing in Rome
as the Romans do, I could not here afford the chance of
placing myself at such a disadvantage in case of a sur-
prise. The High Lama explained the different images
and threw handfuls of rice over them as he called them
by their respective names, all of which I tried hard to
remember, but, alas ! before I could get back to the serai
and scribble down their appellations they had all escaped
my memory. A separate entrance led from the living
part of the monastery into the temple.
Lights, burning in brass bowls, their wicks being fed
with melted butter, were scattered on the floor in the
central quadrangle, and near them lay oblong books of
prayers printed on the smooth yellow Tibetan paper
made from a fibrous bark. Near these books were small
drums and cymbals. One double drum, I noticed, was
made from reversed sections of human skulls, and my at-
tention was also attracted by some peculiar head -gear
worn by the Lamas during their services and ceremonies.
On these occasions they not only accompany their chant-
ing and prayers with the beating of drums and clashing
of cymbals, but they at the same time make a noise on
cane flutes, tinkle hand - bells, and sound a large gong.
The noise of these instruments is at times so great that
the prayers themselves are quite inaudible. Unfortu-
nately, I failed to see any of the awe-inspiring masks
which are used by Lamas in their eccentric and mystic
dances, during which, when the Lamas spend the whole
day in the temple, they consume much tea with butter
and salt in it, which is brought to them in cups by
Lamas of an inferior order acting as servants. They
278
KUNJUK-SUM
pass hour after hour in their temples, apparently abso-
lutely absorbed in praying to the God above all gods,
the incarnation of all the saints together united in a
trinity, the Kunjuk-Sum.
Kunjuk - Sum, translated literally, means " the three
deities," and some take it to refer to the elements air,
water, and fire which in the Tibetan mind are symbols of
speech, charity, and force, and life. One great point in
Buddhism, as every one knows, is the advocation of love
and respect to one's father and mother, and the prohibi-
tion against injuring one's neighbors in any way. Ac-
cording to the precepts contained in some eight hundred
volumes called the Kajars, the Tibetans believe in a
heaven (the Deva Tsembo) free from all anxieties of hu-
man existence, full of love and joy, and ruled over by a
god of infinite goodness, helped by countless disciples
called the Chanchubs, who spend their existence in per-
forming charitable deeds among living creatures. \Yith
a number of intermediate places of happiness and punish-
ment they even believe in a hell, where the souls of sin-
ners are tormented bv fire and ice.
j
" God sees and knows everything, and He is every-
where," exclaimed the Lama, " but we cannot see Him.
Only the Chancliubs can see and speak to Him."
" What are the evil qualities to be mostly avoided ?"
I inquired of the High Lama, who spoke a little Hin-
dustani.
" Luxury, pride, and envy," he replied.
" Do you ever expect to become a saint ?" I asked
him.
" Yes, I hope so, but it takes five hundred transmigra-
tions of an uncontaminated soul before one can be one."
Then, as if waking to a sudden thought, he seized my
hand impulsively and spread my fingers open. Having
279
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
done this, he muttered two or three words of surprise.
His face became serious, even solemn, and he treated me
with strange obsequiousness. Rushing out of the tem-
ple, he went to inform the other Lamas of his discovery,
whatever it was. They crowded round him, and from
their words and gestures it was easy to see that they
were bewildered.
When I left the company of the strange idols and
came into the court-yard, every Lama wished to examine
and touch my hand, and the sudden change in their be-
havior was to me a source of curiosity, until I learned
the real cause of it some weeks later.
280
CHAPTER XLVII
THE JONG PEN'S STATEMENTS REGARDING ME SECTS OF LAMAS LA-
MASERIES GOVERNMENT ALLOWANCE IGNORANCE OF THE CROWDS
HOW LAMAS ARE RECRUITED LAMAS, NOVICES, AND MENIALS-
DANCES AND HYPNOTISM INFALLIBILITY CELIBACY AND VICE-
SCULPTORS PRAYER-WHEELS AND REVOLVING INSTRUMENTS NUN-
NERIES HUMAN BONES FOR EATING-VESSELS AND MUSICAL INSTRU-
M i:\TS BLOOD-DRINKING
BEFORE I left the monastery, the Lamas, who had now
become more or less accustomed to me, asked me many
questions regarding India and concerning medicine.
These seemed to be subjects of great interest to them.
They also questioned me as to whether I had heard that
a young sahib had crossed over the frontier with a large
army, which the Jong Pen of Taklakot had defeated, be-
heading the sahib and the principal members of the ex-
pedition.
I professed to be ignorant of these facts, and so I really
was, though I naturally felt much amused at the casual
way in which the Jong Pen of Taklakot had disposed of
the bear-skin before he had even caught the bear itself.
The Lamas took me for a Hindoo doctor, owing to the
color of my face, which was sunburned and had long
remained unwashed, and they thought that I was on a
pilgrimage of circumambulation round the Mansarowar
Lake. They appeared anxious to know whether illnesses
were cured by occult sciences in India, or by medicines
only. I, who, on the other hand, was more interested in
getting information than in giving it, turned the conversa-
tion on the Lamas themselves.
281
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
Of course I knew that there are sects of red, yellow,
white, and black Lamas, the red ones being the older and
more numerous throughout the country; next to them
come the yellow Lamas, the Gelupkas, equally powerful in
political and religious matters, but not quite so numerous;
and, lastly, the white Lamas and the black Lamas, the
Julinba, who are the craftsmen in the monasteries, work-
ing at painting, printing, pottery, and ornamentation, be-
sides attending on the other Lamas and making them-
selves useful all round in the capacities of cooks, shepherds,
water-carriers, writers, and last, but not least, executioners.
The Lamaseries are usually very rich, for the Tibetans
are a deeply devout race, and the Lamas are not backward
in learning how to extort money from the ignorant wor-
shippers under pretences of all kinds. Besides attending
to their religious functions, the Lamas are traders at large,
carrying on a smart money-lending business, and charging
a very high interest, which falls due every month. If this
should remain unpaid, all the property of the borrower is
confiscated, and if this prove insufficient to repay the loan
the debtor himself becomes a slave to the monastery. It
is evident, from the well-fed countenances of the Lamas,
that, notwithstanding their occasional bodily privations,
they, as a rule, do not allow themselves to suffer in any
way, and no doubt can be entertained as to their leading
a smooth and comfortable existence of comparative lux-
ury a condition which frequently degenerates into vice
and depravity.
The larger Lamaseries receive a yearly Government
allowance, and considerable sums are collected from the
oblations of the faithful, while other moneys are obtained
by all sorts of devices which, in any country less religious
than Tibet, would be considered hardly honorable and
often even altogether criminal. To any one acquainted
282
LAMASERIES AND LAMAS
with Tibet, it is a well-known fact that, except in the larger
towns, nearly all people besides brigands and Lamas are
absolutely poor, while the monks themselves and their
agents live and prosper on the fat of the land. The classes
are maintained in complete ignorance, and seldom is a
layman found who can write or even read. Thus every-
thing has to go through the Lamas' hands before it can
be sanctioned.
The Lamaseries and the Lamas, and the land and prop-
erty belonging to them, are absolutely free from all taxes
and dues, and each Lama or novice is supported for life
by an allowance of tsamba, bricks of tea, and salt. They
are recruited from all ranks, and whether honest folks or
murderers, thieves or swindlers, all are eagerly welcomed
on joining the brotherhood. One or two male members
of each family in Tibet take monastic orders, and by these
means the monks obtain a great hold over each house or
tent hold. It is hardly an exaggeration to say that in
Tibet half the male population are Lamas.
In each monastery are found Lamas, Chabis, and a
lower grade of ignorant and depraved Lamas, slaves, as it
were, of the higher order. They dress and have clean-
shaven heads like their superiors, and do all the handiwork
of the monastery; but they are mere servants, and take
no direct active part in the politics of the Lama Govern-
ment. The Chabis are novices. They enter the Lama-
sery when very young, and remain students for many
years. They are constantly under the teaching and super-
vision of the older ones, and confession is practised from
inferior to superior. After undergoing successfully sev-
eral examinations they become effective Lamas, which
word translated means " high - priest." These Chabis
take minor parts in the strange religious ceremonies in
which the Lamas, disguised in skins and ghastly masks,
283
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
sing and dance with extraordinary contortions to the ac-
companiment of weird music made by bells, horns, flutes,
cymbals, and drums.
Each large monastery has at its head a Grand Lama,
not to be confounded with the Dalai Lama of Lhassa, who
is believed, or rather supposed, to have an immortal soul
transmigrating successively from one body into another.
The Lamas eat, drink, and sleep together in the mon-
astery, with the exception of the Grand Lama, who has a
room to himself. For one moon in every twelve they ob-
serve a strict seclusion, which they devote to praying, and
during which time they are not allowed to speak. They
fast for twenty-four hours at a time, with only water and
butter-tea, eating on fast-days sufficient food only to re-
main alive, and depriving themselves of everything else,
including snuff and spitting, the two most common habits
among Tibetan men.
The Lamas have great pretensions to infallibility, and
on account of this they claim, and obtain, the veneration
of the people, by whom they are supported, fed, and
clothed. I found them, as a rule, very intelligent, but in-
human, barbarously cruel, and dishonorable, and this was
not my own experience alone. I heard the same from the
overridden natives, who wish for nothing better than a
chance to shake off their yoke.
Availing themselves of the absolute ignorance in which
they succeed in keeping the people, the Lamas practise
to a great extent occult arts, by which they profess to
cure illnesses, discover murders and thefts, stop rivers
from flowing, and bring storms about at a moment's
notice. Certain exorcisms, they say, drive away the evil
spirits that cause disease. It is certain that the Lamas
are adept at hypnotic experiments, by which means they
contrive to let the subjects under their influence see many
284
OCCULT ARTS
things and objects that are not there in reality. To this
power are due the frequent reports of apparitions of
Buddha, seen generally by single individuals, and the
visions of demons, the accounts of which alone terrify the
simple-minded folk, and cause them to pay all their spare
cash in donations to the monastery.
Mesmerism plays an important part in their weird
dances, during which extraordinary contortions are per-
formed and strange positions assumed, the body of the
dancer being eventually reduced to a cataleptic state, in
which it remains for a great length of time.
The Lamas swear to celibacy when they enter a Lama-
sery ; but they do not always keep these vows, and they
are besides addicted to the most disgusting of all vices in
its very worst forms, which accounts for the repulsive ap-
pearance of far- gone depravity so common among the
middle-aged Lamas.
All the larger Lamaseries support one or more Lama
sculptors, who travel all over the district, and go to the
most inaccessible spots to carve on rocks, stones, or
pieces of horn, the everlasting inscription, "Omne mani
padme hun" which one sees all over the country. Un-
seen, I once succeeded, after much difficulty and discom-
fort, in carrying away two of these very heavy inscribed
stones, which are still in my possession, and of which re-
productions are here given.
\Yeird and picturesque places, such as the highest
points on mountain passes, gigantic bowlders, rocks near
the sources of rivers, or any spot where a mani wall ex-
ists, are the places most generally selected by these artists
to engrave the magic formula alluding to the reincarna-
o o *-~y
tion of Buddha from a lotus flower.
The famous prayer-wheels, those mechanical contriv-
ances by which the Tibetans pray to their God by means
i. w 285
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
of water, wind, and hand power, are also manufactured by
Lama artists. The larger ones, moved by water, are con-
structed by the side of, or over, a stream, and the huge
cylinders on which the entire Tibetan prayer-book is in-
scribed are revolved by the flowing water. The wheels
moved by wind-power are similar to those used by the
Shokas, which I have already described, but the Tibetans
STONE WITH INSCRIPTION
often have prayers printed on the slips of cloth. The
smaller prayer-wheels, revolved by hand, are of two differ-
ent kinds, and are made either of silver or copper. Those
for home use are cylinders, about six inches high. Inside
these revolve on pivots, on the principle of a spinning
top, the rolls of prayers which, by means of a projecting
knob above the machine, the worshipper sets in motion.
The prayers can be seen revolving inside through a
square opening in the cylinder. The more universal
prayer-wheel in every-day use in Tibet is, however, of the
pattern shown in the illustration. It is usually construct-
ed of copper, sometimes of brass, and frequently entirely
286
PRAYER-WHEELS
or partly of silver. The cylinder has two movable lids,
between which the prayer-roll fits tightly. A handle with
an iron rod is passed through the centre of the cylinder
and roll, and is kept in its place by means of a knob. A
ring encircling the cylinder attaches it to a short chain
and weight; this serves, when started by a jerk of the
hand, to give a rotatory movement, which must, accord-
ing to rule, be from left to right, and which is kept up
STONE WITH INSCRIPTION
indefinitely, the words " Omne mani padme /itm" or
simply " Mani> mani" being repeated until rotation is
kept up.
The more ancient wheels have the prayers written by
hand instead of printed, and are contained in a small
black bag. Charms, such as rings of malachite, jade,
bone, or silver, are often attached to the weight and chain
by which the rotary movement is given to the wheel.
These praying- machines are found in every Tibetan
family, and nearly "every Lama possesses one. They
keep them jealously, and it is very difficult to get the real
ones. I was particularly fortunate, and during my jour-
287
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
ney in Tibet I was able to purchase as many as twelve,
two of which were extremely old.
Besides the rosary, which the Lamas always use in a
similar way to the Roman Catholics, they have a brass
PRAYER-WHEELS, ANCIENT AND MODERN. SHOWING ROLLS OF
PRAYERS TO GO INSIDE
instrument which they twist between the palms of their
hands while saying prayers, and this is used exclusively
by Lamas. It is from two and a half to three inches in
length, and is rounded so as to be easily held in the
hollow of the two hands.
In Tibet, as in other Buddhist countries, there are nun-
neries besides Lamaseries. The nuns, unattractive in
288
NUNNERIES
themselves mostly, and looked down upon, shave their
heads and practise witchcraft and magic, just as the La-
mas do. In some of these nunneries strict clausura is
enforced, but in most of them the Lamas are allowed
free access, with the usual result that the nuns become
the concubines of the Lamas. Even apart from this, the
women of the nunneries are quite as immoral as their
brethren of the Lamaseries, and at their best they are but
a low type of humanity.
The Lamas who, at certain periods of the year, are al-
lowed an unusual amount of freedom with women, are
those who practise the art of making musical instru-
ments and eating-vessels out of human bones. The skull
is used for making drinking -cups, tsamba bowls, and
single and double drums, and the humerus, femur, and
tibia bones are turned into trumpets and pipes. These
particular Lamas are said to relish human blood, which
they drink out of the cups made from men's skulls.
289
CHAPTER XLVIII
ILLNESSES AND REMEDIES CURIOUS THEORIES ABOUT FEVER EVIL
SPIRITS BLACKSMITH AND DENTIST EXORCISMS SURGICAL OPERA-
TIONS MASSAGE AND CUPPING INCURABLE ILLNESSES DEFORMI-
TIES DEAFNESS FITS AND INSANITY MELANCHOLIA SUICIDES
THE Lamas became quite communicative, enabling
me, partly with the little Hindustani that I knew and
partly with the Tibetan I had picked up, to enter into a
conversation about illnesses and their remedies, certain
as I was that they must have strange notions on the
subject. I was not disappointed in this surmise, and
from that conversation and my own observation on previ-
ous and subsequent occasions, I am able to give a few
details of the methods of the Lamas in curing the more
frequent ailments found in the country.
The Lamas explained to me that all diseases arose
from fever, instead of fever being an accompaniment of
most illnesses, and, furthermore, that fever itself was but
an evil spirit, which assumed different forms when it en-
tered the body, and caused all sorts of complaints. The
fever demon, they asserted, was a spirit, but there were
yet other demons who were so good as to bring us riches
and happiness. For instance, when a man after a dan-
gerous illness visited a cave, waterfall, or river -gorge,
which these demons were supposed to haunt, he might
have a relapse and die, or he might be instantly cured
and live happy ever afterwards. In the latter case, as
would naturally be expected, the recipient of such ines-
timable privileges generally returned to pay a second
290
A COMMON COMPLAINT
visit to the kindly spirits who made his life worth living.
" But," said the Lamas quite seriously, " when he goes a
second time he will get blind or paralytic, as a punish-
ment for his greediness."
" The evil spirits," continued a fat old Lama with
crooked fingers, which he clinched and shook as he
spoke, " are in the shape of human beings, or like goats,
dogs, sheep, or ponies, and sometimes they assume the
semblance of wild animals, such as bears and snow-leop-
ards."
I told the Lamas that I had remarked many cases of
goitre and also other abnormalities, such as harelip and
webbed fingers and toes, as well as the very frequent oc-
currence of supernumerary fingers or toes. I asked
them the reason for such cases, and they attributed
them, with the exception of webbed fingers, to the mis-
chievous work of demons before the child's birth ; they
could not, however, suggest a remedy for goitre.
Inguinal and umbilical hernia are quite common, as I
have on several occasions observed, and coarse belts are
made according to the taste and ingenuity of the suf-
ferer, but are of hardly any efficacy in preventing the in-
crease of the swellings.
A common complaint, especially among the older
women, was rheumatism, from which they seemed to suf-
fer considerably. It affected their fingers and toes, and
particularly the wrists and ankles, the joints swelling
so as to render them quite stiff, the tendons contract-
ing, swelling, and becoming prominent and hard in the
palms of the hands.
Both before and after my conversation with the Lamas
I had opportunities of ascertaining that the stomachs of
the Tibetans are seldom in good working order. But
how could they be when you consider the gallons of
291
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
filthy tea which they drink daily, and the liquor to which
they are so partial ? This poisonous concoction is
enough to destroy the gastric juices of an ostrich ! The
tongue, as I have mentioned already, is invariably thick-
ly furred with whitish coating, and Tibetans have often
complained to me of tumors as well as of painful burn-
ings in the stomach, the latter undoubtedly caused by
ulcerations. It is to be regretted that, even in the high
land of Tibet, the worst of all sexual diseases (called by
the Tibetans Born] has made vast numbers of victims,
palpable traces of it showing themselves in eruptions,
particularly on the forehead and on the ears, round the
mouth and under the nostrils, on the arms and legs. In
cases of very long standing, a peculiar whitish discolora-
tion of the skin and gums was to be noticed, with abnor-
mal contraction of the pupils. That such a disease is
well rooted in the country we have proof enough in the
foul teeth which the majority of Tibetans possess. In
nearly all cases that I examined, the teeth were, even in
young men, so loose, decayed, and broken as to make me
feel quite sorry for their owners, and during the whole
time I was in Tibet and I came in contact with several
thousand people I believe that I could almost count on
my fingers the sets of teeth that appeared quite regular,
healthy, and strong. As a rule, too, the women had bet-
ter teeth than the men. No doubt the admixture of bad
blood in the Tibetan race contributes a great deal to the
unevenness and malformation of their teeth, and if we
add to this the fact that the corruption of the blood, even
apart from disease, is very great, owing to their pecul-
iar laws of marriage, it is not surprising that the services
of dentists are everywhere required. The teeth of Tibe-
tans are generally of such a brittle nature that the den-
tist of Tibet usually a Lama and a blacksmith as well
292'
TRANSMIGRATION OF EVIL SPIRITS
has devised an ingenious way of protecting them from
further destruction by means of a silver cap incasing the
broken tooth. I once saw a man with all his front teeth
covered in this fashion, and as the dentist who had at-
tended to him had constructed the small cases apparent-
ly with no regard to shape or comfort, but had made
most of them end in a point for mastication's sake, the
poor man had a ghastly appearance every time that he
opened his mouth. The Tibetans are not very sensitive
to physical pain, as I have had reason to judge on sev-
eral occasions, when I have seen teeth extracted in the
most primitive fashion, without a sound being emitted
from the sufferer.
In Southwestern Tibet the Hunyas( Tibetans) have the
same strange notions on transmigration of evil spirits
which are common to the Shokas. For instance, if a man
falls ill, they maintain that the only remedy is to drive
away the evil spirit that has entered his body. Now ac-
cording to Tibetan and Shoka ideas evil spirits always
enter a living body to satisfy their craving for blood ;
therefore, to please the spirit and decoy him away, if the
illness be slight, a small animal, such as a dog or a bird, is
brought and placed close by the patient ; if the illness be
grave, a sheep is produced and exorcisms are made in the
following fashion: a bowl of water is whirled three or
four times over the sick man's head, and then again over
the animal selected, upon whose head it is poured. These
circles, described with certain mystic words, have the power
of drawing the spirit out of its first quarters and causing
it to enter the brain of the second victim, upon whose
skull the water is poured to prevent its returning back.
" Of course," said my informer, with an air of great gravi-
ty, "if you can give the evil spirit a present in the shape of
a living being that will satisfy him, he will depart quite
293
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
happy." If the illness is slight, it means that the spirit is
not much out of temper, and a small present is sufficient
to satisfy him, but if the disease is serious, nothing less
than a sheep or even a yak will satisfy him. As soon as
the spirit has changed his temporary abode the animal is
quickly dragged away to a crossing of four roads, and
if there are no roads a cross is previously drawn on the
ground, where a grave for the animal
is dug, into which it is mercilessly
thrown and buried alive. The spirit,
unable to make a rapid escape^ re-
mains to suck the blood of his last
victim, and in the mean time the sick
man, deprived of the company of his
ethereal and unwelcome guest, has
time to make a speedy recovery.
When a smaller animal is used, such
as a dog or a bird, and when the pa-
tient complains of more than one ail-
ment, the poor beast, having been
conveyed to the crossing of four
roads, is suddenly seized and brutally
torn into four parts, which are flung
in four different directions, the idea being that, wherever
there may be spirits waiting for blood, they will get their
share and depart happy. After their craving is satisfied,
the evil spirits are not very particular whether the blood
is human or not. In Shoka land especially, branches
with thorns and small flying prayers are placed on each
road to prevent their immediate return. These are said
to be insuperable barriers to the evil spirits.
When a patient completely recovers, the Lamas natu-
rally obtain money for the exorcisms which have expelled
the illness, and they never fail to impress upon the people
294
BRANCH WITH THORNS
TO PREVENT RETURN
OF EVIL SPIRITS
INSUPERABLE BARRIERS
the extraordinary powers they possess over the much-
dreaded demons.
The Tibetans are unsuccessful in surgery, first of all
because they do not possess sufficient knowledge of human
anatomy; secondly, because their fingers are wanting in
suppleness and sensitiveness of touch ; and, lastly, because
they are not able to manufacture instruments of sufficient
sharpness to perform surgical operations with speed and
cleanliness. In Tibet everybody is a surgeon, thus woe
to the unfortunate who needs one. It is true that ampu-
tation is seldom performed ; but if it should become nec-
essary, and the operation is at all difficult, the patient in-
variably succumbs. The Tibetan surgeon does not know
how to saw bones, and so merely severs the limb at the
place where the fracture has occurred. The operation is
performed with any knife or dagger that happens to be at
hand, and is therefore attended with much pain, and fre-
quently has disastrous results. The precaution is taken
to tie up the broken limb above fracture, but it is done in
such a clumsy way that very often, owing to the bad qual-
ity of Tibetan blood, mortification sets in, and, as the Tib-
etans are at a loss what to do on such occasions, another
victim goes to join the majority.
Considerinsf the nomadic habits of the Tibetans and
O
the rough life they lead, they are comparatively immune
from very bad accidents. Occasionally there is a broken
arm or leg, which they manage to set roughly, if the fract-
ure is not a compound one, by putting the bones back in
their right position, and by tightly bandaging the limbs
with rags, pieces of cloth, and rope. Splinters are used
when wood is obtainable. A powder made from a fungus
growing on oak-trees in the Himahlyas is imported and
used by the Tibetans near the frontier. A thick layer of
it, when wet, is rubbed and left upon the broken limb,
295
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
over which the bandaging is afterwards done. In a healthy
person a simple fracture of the leg, which by chance has
been properly set, takes from twenty to thirty days to heal,
after which the patient can begin moving about; and a
broken arm does not require to be kept in a sling more
than fifteen or twenty days. If these cures are somewhat
more rapid than with our more civilized methods of bone
setting, it is merely due to the wholesome climate and the
fact that the natives spend most of their days out in the
open air and in the sun, undoubtedly the best cure for any
complaint of that kind ; but, of course, it is but seldom
that the bones are joined properly, and they generally re-
main a deformity. More satisfactory results are obtained,
with cases of dislocations, by pulling the bones into their
right position.
In case of wounds the bleeding is arrested by the ap-
plication of a wet rag tightly bound over the wound. In
most cases of unbandaged wounds that came under my
notice the process of healing was a very slow one, the
great changes in the temperature between night and day
often causing them to open of themselves. They made
good headway towards recovery in the beginning, but the
skin was very slow in joining and reforming.
Burns are treated by smearing butter over them; and a
poultice of rhubarb is used to send down swellings of con-
tusions as well as for the purpose of bringing boils, from
which the Tibetans suffer much, to a speedy maturation.
Aconite is given for fever and rheumatism, and a rough
kind of massage is used to allay pain in the muscles of
limbs. It is generally done by the women, who, as far as
I could judge, practised it with no real knowledge, but
merely contented themselves with violent rubbing and
pinching and thumping until signs of relief appeared on
the sufferer's face. Whether, however, these manifesta-
296
A FEW REMEDIES
tions were due to actual soothing of pain, or to the pros-
pect of the masseuse bringing her treatment to an end, I
could never properly ascertain. Tibetan fingers are not
well adapted for such work, being clumsy, and, compared
with those of other Asiatic races, quite stiff and hard.
Cupping is adopted with success. Three or four small
incisions are made close to one another, and a conical
cupping-horn, about seven inches long, having a tiny hole
at its point, is applied over them. The operator then
sucks through this small aperture until the horn is full of
blood, when it is removed and the operation begun again.
With poisoned wounds the sucking is done by applying
the lips to the wound itself.
Bleeding is used as a remedy for bruises and swellings,
and for internal pain, also for acute attacks of rheuma-
tism and articular pains. If it is not sufficient, the brand-
ing cure is resorted to, and if this should also fail, then
the tinder cones come into play, and, the seat of the pain
being encircled with them, they are set alight. When
even this remedy proves inefficacious, and the patient
survives it, the illness is pronounced incurable.
Natural abnormalities and deformities are frequent
enough in Tibet, and some came under my notice in
nearly every camp I entered. Deformities of the spine
were common, such as displacement of the shoulder-
blades ; and I saw during my stay in Tibet many cases of
actually hump-backed people. There were frequent cases,
too, of crookedness of the legs, and club-foot was not rare,
while one constantly met with webbed fingers and super-
numerary fingers and toes, as well as the absence of one
or more of them. Malformations of the skull, such as
the two sides being of marked unequal shape or an ab-
normal distance between the eye-sockets, were the two
more common deformities that came under my notice.
297
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
The ears of men of the better classes were much elon-
gated artificially by the constant wearing of heavy ear-
rings, which sometimes even tore the lobe of the ear.
The most frequent and curious of all was the extreme
swelling of children's stomachs, caused by the umbilical
cord not being properly tied at birth. The operation was
generally performed by the mother and father of the
newly born, or by some friend at hand. The infants had
such enormous paunches that in some cases they were
hardly able to stand ; but as they grew older the swelling
seemed to gradually abate and the body assumed its nor-
mal shape.
Deafness was common enough, but I never came
across any dumb people, though I now and then encoun-
tered cases of painful stammering and other defects of
articulation arising from malformation of the palate and
tongue.
Occasionally, however, the difficulty of speech was
caused by dementia, which seemed very common in Tibet,
especially among the young men. Whether it was caused
by cardiac affection consequent upon organic vices, as I
suspected, or by other trouble, I could not say for certain ;
but presently I based my suspicions on certain facts
which I happened to notice, besides the presence of symp-
toms indicating great nervous depression and strain, ex-
treme weakness of the spine, and oscillations of the hands
when spread horizontally with the fingers and thumbs
wide apart. This may in one way be accounted for by
the difficulty that men have in obtaining wives, owing to
the scarcity of women. Apoplectic and epileptic fits and
convulsions were not of very frequent occurrence, but they
seemed severe when they did occur. The fire cure was
usually applied in order to drive away the spirits that
were supposed to have entered the body, but, all the same,
298
MELANCHOLIA OF TIBETAN WOMEN
these fits at times resulted in temporary or occasionally
permanent paralysis, and much derangement and disfigu-
ration of the facial expression, particularly about the. eyes
and mouth. I had occasion to study three very good
specimens of this kind at Tucker, at Tarbar, north of the
Brahmaputra River, and at Tokchim.
Much to my regret I never came across any violent
cases of insanity during my stay in the country, though
many times I observed strange peculiarities among the
men, and signs of manias, more particularly religious.
In women I several times noticed symptoms of melan-
cholia, caused no doubt by abuse of sexual intercourse,
owing to their strange laws of polyandry. I was told that
occasionally it led to suicide by drowning or strangula-
tion. However, I was never able to keep any of the sus-
picious cases under close observation for any length of
time, and, as our arrival into Tibetan camps generally
created some amount of fear and sensation, and we usual-
ly left before they could be quite at home with us, I never
had a chance of studying the subject more closely.
CHAPTER XLIX
A TIBETAN MEDICINE-MANLUMBAGO, AND A STARTLING CURE FOR IT
COMBUSTIBLE FUSEES FIRE AND BUTTER PRAYERS, AGONY, AND
DISTORTIONS STRANGE IDEAS ON MEDICINE
STRANGE as these remedies seemed to be, they hardly
came up, as far as interest went, to one I saw applied at a
place called Kutzia. I had entered a Tibetan camp of
some twenty or thirty tents, when my attention was drawn
to an excited crowd collected round an old man whose gar-
ments had been removed. He was tightly bound with
ropes, and agony was depicted on his features. A tall,
long-haired man with red coat and heavy boots knelt by
the side of the sufferer and prayed fervently, twirling
round a prayer-wheel which he held in his right hand.
My curiosity aroused, I approached the gathering,
whereupon three or four Tibetans got up and signed to
me to be off. I pretended not to understand, and, after a
heated discussion, I was allowed to remain.
An operation was obviously being performed by a Tib-
etan medicine-man, and the suspense in the crowd round
the sick man was considerable. The doctor was -busy
preparing combustible fusees, which he wrapped up care-
fully in silk paper. When cut in the centre they formed
two cones, each with a little tail of twisted paper protrud-
ing beyond its summit. Having completed six or eight
of these, the medicine-man made his patient, or rather his
victim, assume a sitting posture. I inquired what ailed
the sick man. From what they told me, and from an ex-
300
A TIBETAN MEDICINE-MAN
animation made on my own account, I was satisfied that
the man was suffering from an attack of lumbago. The
coming cure, however, interested me more than the ill-
ness itself, and the doctor, see-
ing how absorbed I was in the
performance, asked me to sit by
his side. First of all the man
called for " fire," and a woman
handed him a blazing brand
from a fire near by. He swung
it to and fro in the air, and
pronounced certain exorcisms.
Next the patient was subjected
to a thorough examination, giv-
ing vent to a piercing yell each
time that the long, bony fingers
of the physician touched his
sides, whereupon the man of
science, pointing to the spot, in-
formed his open - mouthed au-
dience that the pain was "there."
Putting on a huge pair of spec-
tacles, he rubbed with the palm
of his hand the umbilical region
of the sufferer and then meas-
ured with folded thumb two
inches on each side of and
slightly under the umbilicus.
To mark these distances he
used the burning-brand, apply-
ing it to the flesh at these points.
" Murr, murrT (Butter, butter!) he next called for,
and butter was produced. Having rubbed a little on the
burns, he placed upon each of them a separate cone, and
I. X SO 1
*
LI
A MEDICINE-MAX
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
pressed until it remained a fixture, the point upward.
Shifting the beads of a rosary, revolving the praying-
wheel, and muttering prayers, the medicine -man now
worked himself into a perfect frenzy. He stared at the
sun, raising his voice from a faint whisper to a thunder-
ing barytone at its loudest, and his whole audience
seemed so affected by the performance that they all
shook and trembled and prayed in their terror. He
now again nervously clutched the burning wood in one
hand, and, blowing upon it with the full strength of his
lungs, produced a flame. The excitement in the crowd
became intense. Every one, head down to the ground,
prayed fervently. The doctor waved the ignited wood
three or four times in the air and then applied the flames
to the paper tips of the combustible cones. Apparently
saltpetre and sulphur had been mixed in the preparation
of these. They burned fast, making a noise like the fuse
of a rocket.
At this juncture the animation of the on-lookers was
not to be compared with the agitation of the patient,
who began to feel the effects of this primitive remedy.
The fire spluttered on his bare skin. The cure was
doing its work. The wretched man's mouth foamed, and
his eyes bulged out of their sockets. He moaned and
groaned, making desperate efforts to unloose the bonds
that kept his hands fast behind his back. Two stalwart
men sprang forward and held him while the medicine-
man and all the women present, leaning over the pros-
trate form, blew with all their might upon what remained
of the three smoking cones frizzling away into the flesh
of the wretched victim.
The pain of which the man complained seemed to en-
circle his waist, wherefore the strange physician, having
untied his patient's arms from behind, and retied them
302
A STRANGE CURE
in front, began his measurements again, this time from
the spinal column.
" Chik, ni, sun /" (One, two, three !) he exclaimed, as
he marked the three spots in the same fashion as before,
smeared them over with butter, and affixed the cones.
Here ensued a repetition of the previous excitement,
prayers, agony, and distortions, but the patient was not
thoroughly cured, and more cones were subsequently ig-
nited on both his sides, in spite of his protests and my
appeals on his behalf. The poor fellow soon had a regu-
lar circle of severe burns round his body.
Needless to say, when, two hours later, the operation
was over, the sick man had become a dying man. With
a view to obtaining a few hints on Tibetan medicine
from this eminent physician the Tibetans held him in
great esteem I sent him a small present and requested
him to visit me. He was flattered, and showed no desire
to keep his methods a secret, but even pressed me to try
some of his unique remedies.
According to him, fire would cure most illnesses ; what
fire could not cure, water would. He had, neverthe-
less, some small packets of variously colored powders, for
which he claimed extraordinary powers.
" I am afraid your patient will die," I remarked.
" He may," was the reply, " but it will be the fault of
the patient, not the cure. Besides, what does it matter
whether you die to-day or to-morrow ?"
And with this unprofessional dictum he left me.
CHAPTER L
TUCKER VILLAGE CHOKDENS HOUSES FLYING PRAYERS SOLDIERS
OR ROBBERS? A STAMPEDE FRESH PROVISIONS DISAPPOINTM I N I'
TREACHERY SHOKAS LEAVE ME OBSERVATIONS FIVE MEN, ALL
COUNTED
WHEN I left the Gomba, having been salaamed to the
ground by my new friends the Lamas, I walked about the
village to examine all there was to be seen.
Along the water's edge stood a number of dilapidated
Chokdens made of mud and stones, with a square base
surmounted by a moulding, and an upper decoration in
steps, topped by a cylindrical column. They were in a
row at the east end of the village, and, as is well known,
they are supposed to contain a piece of bone, cloth, or
metal, and books, or parts of them, that had once belonged
to a great man or a saint. Roughly drawn images are
occasionally found in them. In rare cases, when crema-
tion has been applied, the ashes are collected into a small
earthen-ware urn and deposited in one of the Chokdens.
The ashes are usually made into a paste with clay, on
which, when flattened like a medallion, a representation
of Buddha is either stamped from a mould or engraved
by means of a pointed tool.
The interiors of the houses at Tucker were no more
pleasing than the exteriors. Each habitation had a walled
court-yard, and the top of the wall, as well as the edge of
the flat roof, was lined with masses of tamarisk for fuel.
In the court-yard sheep and goats were penned at night;
and the human beings who occupied the rooms were dirty
304
BUYING PROVISIONS
beyond all description. There were hundreds of flying
prayers over the monastery as well as over each house,
and, as the people stood on their roofs watching us, laugh-
ing and chatting, the place had quite a gay aspect
While I was strolling about some fifty or sixty men ap-
peared on the scene, armed with matchlocks and swords,
and I looked upon them with suspicion, but Kachi reas-
sured me, and said they were not soldiers, but a powerful
band of robbers encamped about half a mile off, and on
very friendly terms with the Lamas. As a precaution, I
loaded my rifle, which was quite sufficient to occasion a
stampede of the armed crowd, followed, in the panic, by
all the other villagers that had collected round us. Like
all Tibetans, they were a miserable lot, though powerfully
built and with plenty of bounce about them.
Early in the morning I had made inquiries about pro-
visions, and had arranged for the purchase of two fat
sheep and some 450 Ibs. of food (flour, rice, tsamba, ghur,
sugar, salt, and butter), and several Tibetans stated that
they could supply me with any quantity I required.
Among others was a trader from Buddhi, Darcey Bura's
brother, who promised to bring me within an hour a suf-
ficient quantity of food to last us ten men twenty-five days.
I noticed, when these men left, that two of my Shokas ran
after them, and entered into an excited discussion with
them. Some two or three hours later the traders returned,
swearing that not an ounce of food could be obtained in the
place. The way in which these men could lie was indeed
marvellous to study. I suspected treachery, and reprimand-
ed my Shokas, threatening to punish them very severely if
I could prove that my suspicions were well founded.
The Shokas, finding themselves discovered, and partly
through fear of the Tibetans, were now again quite un-
reasonable and demoralized, so much so that I decided to
305
IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND
discharge them. It was no use keeping them by force. From
the moment I had entered the forbidden country I had been
compelled to protect myself against them as much as
against the Tibetans. I reflected, however, when I made
up my mind to let them go, that these fellows had stood
for my sake hardships and privations which few men could
stand, and in paying them off I therefore rewarded them
THE PANKU GOMBA
suitably, and they undertook to bring back safely across
the frontier part of my baggage containing photographs,
ethnological collections, etc. With infinite trouble I then
managed to purchase enough provisions to last four men
ten days.
The whole party accompanied me three and a quarter
miles farther, where, in sight of the tumble-down Panku
Gomba, a mile to the west of us, we halted in order to
make the necessary arrangements for our parting, unseen
by the Tibetans. I took observations for latitude and Ion-
306
THE FIVE SHOKAS QUIT
gitude. The water of the hypsometncal apparatus boiled
at 185 Fahr. fifty feet above the level of the lake, the tem-
perature of the air being 76 and the hour 10 A.M.
\Ye had a high snowy chain to the south of us, extend-
ing from 70 to 33 (b. m.), the direction of the range being
approximately from southwest to northeast, starting at
Ximo Nangil.
"A'hen everything was ready the five Shokas, including
Kachi and Dola, left me, swearing by the sun and all that
they hold most sacred that they would in no way betray
me to the Tibetans, who so far had no suspicion as to who
I was.
Bijesing the Johari and the Kutial Bura Nattoo agreed
to accompany me as far as the Maium Pass, so that my
party, including myself, was now reduced to only five.
307
END OF VOL. I
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