yC-NRLF ^B EST E3& ^i^'^^V^v^C/1^: . UeitARY CALIFOKNIA J Digitized by tine Internet Arciiive, in 2007 witii funding from IVIicrosoft Corporation littp://www.arcliive.org/details/fishingrodliowtouOOglenricli ;k' THE FISHING-ROD; HOW TO USE IT: A TREATISE ON THE VARIOUS ARTS OF ANGLING, TROLLING, SPINNING, AND FLY-FISHING. G L E N F I N^ 43y^^t LONDON: BAILY BROTHERS, CORNHILL. 1860. LONDON: THOMAS PIPER, PRINTER, PATERNOSTER ROW. PREFACE Many books have been written on the art of fishing, some of which are very able pro- ductions ; but too scientific, profuse, and costly, for many persons who have neither time nor inclination to study them, nor the means to pro- cure them. This little treatise professes to give, in as clear and concise a form as possible, and at a price within the reach of all, the most approved instructions in the whole art. The author having had a long practical expe- rience in every branch of the art upon which he treats, now offers, with confidence, the following well considered pages. The young angler may be assured, that by attentively studying this little work, or such ivi842070 VI CONTENTS. PAGE The Multiplying-Keel 13 The Landing-Net 13 The Gaff-Hook 14 The Clearing-King and Di*ag-Hook 14 The Baiting-Needle 15 The Disgorger 15 The Minnow-Kettle 16 The Fly-Book 16 Where and how to Procure and Prepare Worms AND Gentles for Angling. Worms : — Lob-Worms 17 The Marsh, or Blue-Headed Worm 17 Brandlings 18 Bed Worms 18 Blood Worms 18 Tag-tail Worms 18 To Scour Worms 19 Gentles oj Maggots 19 Gudgeon Fishing 19 Bleak Fishing 22 Dace Fishing 22 Roach Fishing 24 CONTENTS. VU PAGE To make Paste for Koach Fishing 27 Bream Fishing 29 Barbel Fishing 31 Tench Fishing 36 To make Paste for Tench and Carp Fishing 37 Carp Fishing 40 Chub Fishing 46 Greaves — how to bait the Hook with 48 „ how to soak 48 Perch Fishing 50 Shrimps — how to keep alive as Baits 51 Spinning the Minnow 53 Trolling for Pike and Jack 61 Snap Fishing 63 Fly Fishing 71 Artificial Flies : — Flies for March 75 Flies for April 75 Flies for May 76 Flies for June 76 Flies for July 76 Flies for August 77 Flies for September 77 vm CONTENTS. PAGB Trout Fishing 77 Tripping for Trout 78 Mode of Baiting the Hook with two Worms ..* 79 Grayling Fishing 82 Salmon Fishing 83 Tripping for Salmon 85 THE FISHING-EOD AND HOW TO USE IT. FISHING-EODS. There are so many varieties of the fishing-rod, that it will be necessary to explain to the young angler the particular use to which each can be applied. There are general rods, fly rods, trolling rods, bottom rods, single and double- handed rods, walking-stick rods, bag rods, and spliced rods. Of these the general rod is the kind most ufied by young anglers ; it has a variety of joints and top pieces of different strengths and substances ; so that by simply changing one or two of the joints or top pieces, the rod may be suited to the finest roach and dace fishing ; or it may, by the same means, be converted into a sti'ong trolling rod. It is usual for a rod of this kind to have a hollow butt, in which 2 THE FISHING-ROD ; to carry some of the extra top pieces ; and it is also furnished with winch fittings ; and all the heavy pieces are ringed for the trolling line or running tackle. The fly rod, or fly-fishing rod, comprises several varieties ; thus there are salmon rods and trout rods ; and there are two-handed as well as single-handed fly rods : and these dis- tinctions are rendered necessary by reason of the variety in the size and nature of the fish to be caught ; or the breadth of water to be fished. For instance, in narrow streams, a short rod is required; indeed, a long one would be un- manageable in some places, whilst in others the waters could only be fished with a very long rod : and again, for heavy salmon a very strong rod is required, whilst for small trout a light one suits best. All fly rods should be well ringed; the rings being placed within a few inches of each other at the top, and gra- dually vrider as they come downwards to the butt end. The salmon fly rod should not exceed 18 feet in length, unless it is intended to be used by a very tall and powerful man, who is enabled to wield a 20 feet rod with facility ; but when A^D HOW TO USE IT. 3 a rod is too long, or too heavy, it is impossible that it can be used skilfully. Salmon rods should always be made of the best materials: the butt of a good salmon rod is usually of ash, the middle pieces hickory, and the tops bamboo cane. It should also be furnished with a flat rounded nut, or wooden cap, like the truck of a boat's mast; because it is often necessary for the fisher, when working the fly through the water, to rest or press the butt end of the rod against his stomach or hip, parti- cularly if it be a two-handed rod. But it should be observed of two-handed rods, that they cannot be used with the same accuracy in throwing and dropping the fly as single- handed rods. The trout, or light fly rod, is generally from 12 to 14 feet in length, and tapering gradually in size from end to end. The play of the rod does not always depend so much on the flexi- biUty of the materials as the regularity or symmetry of its taper, which assists the thrower in the mechanical action necessarily required in delivering the fly precisely, and to the fullest extent. Trout fly rods should be made of hickory, or 4 THE fishing-rod; other light solid material. Bamboo is not de- sirable for a single-banded fly rod. The flexi- bility of a trout fly rod should run through every piece in due proportion; and this highly desirable feature in a perfect rod can only be obtained in one in which every joint or piece is of the same material, with the exception only of the top piece. The best fly rods have brass ferrules, cappings, and sockets, so that each joint is fitted accurately and securely; and wet or damp weather does not afiect the joints, as it does a common made rod, by sometimes setting them all fast ; and in dry weather, the strain of a heavy fish often causes a badly made rod (or one in which the heel of each joint is not ferruled) to come to pieces at the joints. The best trolling rods are made of stout bamboo, with a short whalebone top piece ; but there are other materials of which very good trolling rods may be made — of whatever material they must be strong. The most usual length of a troUing rod is 16 feet, though for wide waters one of 18 feet will be more desirable. Almost any stoutly made rod may be converted into a trolling rod by changing the top piece AND HOW TO USE IT. 5 to a short stiff one, with a fixed ring or collar at the top end. The trolHng rod should have one ring on each joint, through which the line may pass freely, without chafing or fretting ; and if the rings stand out stationary from the rod, the line will work better. The reason of this precau- tion is, that a pike or jack, on seizing the bait, does not swallow it at once, but runs off with it to a hiding-place, and there gorges it ; the Hne must therefore run off the winch and through the rings without the slightest check, and as easily and freely as possible. The rings must not be numerous, one on each joint is sufficient, with the exception of the top piece, which should have a ring on the lower part as well as a collar at the top ; and the collar should be bent in such a manner as to stand out at right angles with the other rings on the rod. The trolling rod is well adapted for barbel and heavy carp fishing, as well as for the purposes of trolling for pike. The bottom rod comprises many varieties in length and substance, according to the size or weight of fish for which it is required, and the nature of the waters to be fished. The 6 THE fishing-kod; material of which bottom rods are made also varies ; in general bamboo is preferred by rea- son of its lightness and elasticity, though for some purposes of bottom fishing too elastic a rod is not desirable. To a bottom rod gene- rally belong two or three top pieces of different degrees of strength ; and it is sometimes ringed throughout, and furnished with a reel and run- ning Hue, and also with a spike. The walking-stick rod is, to some persons, a very handy and useful article, particularly to the angler who has to trudge some distance on foot to his fishing quarters. It is of neces- sity a very light article, and not often very strong. In general it is made of bamboo, and each piece is received one within the other, as a telescope ; and the lower end being capped with a ferrule it forms a stout walking-stick, with the necessary pieces inside for forming a light fishing-rod. Bag rods are merely light rods in small short pieces, or joints, of about two feet in length ; they are usually made of cane, and are weU adapted to light fishing in small streams. The advantage and object of the bag rod is, that it AND HOW TO USE IT. 7 may be carried in the pocket or packed in a portmanteau. Spliced rods are favom-ite articles among many practical fishers ; though inexpensive, and of rude and simple construction, they are very effective in the hands of a skilful fly-fisher : they are usually formed of two joints only, butt and top, which are joined by a splice and whip- ping, without any particle of brass at the joints; a leathern thong being first wetted and slipped over the splice, upon which a whipping of small soft twine is passed — as the leather dries, the closer and tighter it adheres to the wood. The tourist and pedestrian angler will find the spliced rod as light an article as he can use ; and, in the event of accident, the damaged piece is easily replaced, though no fishing-tackle shop may he at hand from which to obtain the assistance of a rod-maker. All fishing-rods receive injury from wet, unless wiped dry before being put in the bag, or laid aside ; and on putting a rod away for the season, if it has been much used, it should be re-varnished, or, in absence of varnish, if well rubbed over with painters' linseed oil (i. e. boiled linseed oU) the insects will not attack it 8 THE fishing-rod; so readily as they do bare wood or cane. But in India, and other warm climates, the great difficulty is experienced in keeping i^shing-rods from injury by the wood-eating insects ; unless constantly rubbed over with oil or varnish, when laid aside, they are soon spoilt. FISHING-LINES. Fishing-lines are made chiefly of silk, with silk-worm gut, or horsehair at the lower end. Sometimes the entire hue is made of horse hair or gut, and sometimes of Indian or other grasses. In choosing silk-worm gut select the roundest, smoothest, and most transparent : and in hair lines, see that there are no flaws or discolourings in them. To render gut and hair lines pliant, and for the purpose of tying or knotting them, first soak them in warm water, or rub them with a piece of india-rubber : and if they become chafed or fretted, the use of the India rubber will make them smooth again. Platted silk Knes are now much used as running lines for heavy fish ; but for Hght fly-fishing they are too heavy. The. eight-plat silk line is manufactured expressly for trolling, and for heavy salmon fishing. AND HOW TO USE IT. 9 FISH-HOOKS. There are several varieties of fish-hooks : those generally used by the angler are known as Linae- rick, Kirby, Kendal, and Round-bend. Each being somewhat different in shape and bend: they are also made with long and short shanks. When worms are used as baits, a long-shanked hook is required ; but with pastes, gentles, and some other baits, short-shanked hooks are pre- ferred. And for many purposes the long- shanked hooks are best suited ; whilst for many others the short-shanked are required. The varieties in the sizes of hooks are known by numbers, just as the different sizes of shot are distinguished by the sportsman. Thus the sizes are numbered from 1 to 12 or 14 ; No. 1 being the largest and No. 14 the smallest. The angler should keep them separate in small boxes, with the distinguishing number on the lid of each. The young angler should learn to whip or tie hifi hooks to lengths of gut and hair. Waxed silk is the best material for the purpose : the finest sewing silk that can be had shoilld be used: and there is no wax so useful for the 10 THE FISHING-ROD ; purpose as shoemaker's wax. A little practice will soon enable him to perform this initiatory proceeding neatly and skilfully. Having whipped the hook to the gut, make a loop at the upper end by whipping it down with waxed silk, first softening the gut as before directed. The hook is then ready to attach to the line, which having also a loop, the two may be joined together by merely passing the loop of the hook-gut over the line-loop, and then draw- ing the hook through the line-loop. In this manner hooks may be attached to and taken off the line almost instantly. By the same process the fishing-line may be attached to the top-piece of the fishing-rod, or to the trolling or running line ; and two or more lines may be joined together in the same man- ner. FLOATS. Floats may be had in great variety of any of the fishing-tackle makers ; and at a cost so trifiing that anglers of the humblest means need not take the trouble to make them ; and indeed it is seldom a "home-made'' float swims truly or looks neat. AND HOW TO USE IT. 11 Quill floats in particular require to be very nicely made, so that the smallest nibble may be instantly observed by the watchful angler. The best quill floats are rather expensive, because of the difficulty of obtaining large and suitable quills for the purpose : and they are also so beautifully finished by the London float-makers, that many anglers take great pride in them, and sometimes pay as much as half a guinea for an exquisitely finished ivory-tipped quill float. Cork floats are made of all sizes and shapes ; and painted in the gayest colours. These are used most in bottom-fishing by young anglers, and in rough water and strong currents. Eeed floats are similar in shape to quill floats, they are the cheapest of all ; but are far less durable than cork. The bottom fisher should always keep a small supply of float-caps at hand ; for unless the cap which holds the float to the line is sound, and fits exactly, he stands a chance of losing a favorite float whenever there is a strain upon the line. SHOTTING THE LINE. This proceeding is very simple ; it consists in that of attaching split-shot to the line a few 12 THE fishing-rod; inches above the hook. It is necessary for the double purpose of sinking the bait, and causing the float to swim at its proper bearings. The shot used for this purpose should be split open half way through, and then carefully nipped on to the line with a pair of pliers. The young angler must be cautious not to nip them too tightly, or he will cut or injure the gut or hair. It is indispensably necessary that the angler should at all times be provided with split-shot of various sizes. THE WINCH OR REEL. Winches are made of various sizes according to the length of line for which they are required. The use of the winch is for the purpose of con- taining a running line of twenty or more yards ; so that with fine tackle a heavy fish may be brought to land, by first playing and tiriag it in the water, by letting it swim and plunge about ; and at favourable moments turning and check- ing it in its course ; by which proceeding the fish, in time, tires, becomes exhausted, and falls on its side resigned to fate. AND HOW TO USE IT. 13 THL MULTIPLYING-REEL Is an ingenious and valuable contrivance. With a multiplying-reel twenty or thirty yards of slack line may be wound up almost in an instant. For salmon fishing, and indeed when- ever fine tackle is used, and heavy or desperate fish are hooked, the multiplying-reel is in- valuable. THE LANDING-NET. This is a very necessary appendage to the angler's gear. When fishing with fine tackle, heavy fish cannot be landed without a landing net, except at great risk of losing them, along with a portion of your tackle. The jointed brass net-hoops are best and most portable. When you have hooked a good fish, and called to your attendant to make use of the landing- net ; never, under any circumstances, allow him to lay hold of your Hne for the purpose of draw- ing the fish nearer to the net. Many a fine fish has been lost by indiscretions of the kind. Unless your attendant can perform the simple process of using the landing-net without laying hold of the line, he had better desist altogether. 14 THE fishing-rod; THE GAFF-HOOK Is a substitute for the landing-net. It is much used in salmon fishing and for landing fish which are too large to be contained in the landing-net. And^it is also of advantage where the nature of the bank or brink of the water is such, that the landing-net cannot properly be used. THE CLEARINa-RINa AND DRAG-HOOK. These are used for clearing the line and hook when accidentally caught or entangled among weeds, or hung on piles, or other obstructions. To the clearing-ring are attached ten or twenty yards of strong cord or line. The clearing-ring weighs about six or eight ounces ; it opens with a joint or snap, and may thus be put upon the line and immediately dropped down to the spot where the entanglement rests : then, by pulling it, the line may sometimes be drawn away without loss of hook : whereas in absence of the clearing- line or drag-hook, perhaps the float and three or four yards of valuable line would have been lost. Every angler and fly-fisher should always AND HOW TO USE IT. 15 be provided with one or other of these useful articles. THE BAITING-NEEDLE Is also an indispensable article to the troller and spinner, or those who use small fish and other large live baits. Its use will be more par- ticulary referred to under the head, " Trolling for Jack and Pike." THE DISGORGER. This is also a most useful little article to the angler and fly-fisher. It is used for releasing the hook from the throat of the fish. By thrusting the disgorger down to the hook, and holding the line tight whilst you press the disgorger downwards, the hook may be quickly released and drawn out ; and thus the trouble and disagreeable process of ripping open a fish which has swallowed the hook is avoided ; and with pike and jack the danger of a venomous bite is also prevented by using a disgorger. An angler can make this simple httle article himself. Any thin strip of hard wood or bone, forked at the end, will answer the purpose. 16 THE FISHING-ROD; THE MINNOW KETTLE. The minnow or live-bait kettle, is a most use- ful article to the live-bait fisher, the troller, and minnow spinner. They are made pm-posely for carrying and keeping live-bait in their native element. A minnow-net should always accom- pany the kettle, because a Hve fish cannot be taken out with the hand without terrifying, rubbing the scales off*, and injuring others which may be in the kettle ; and the live-bait fisher cannot be too particular in offering his baits as fresh, lively, and perfect as possible; let him, therefore, provide himself with a live- bait kettle and a minnow hand-net. THE FLY-BOOK. Every fly-fisher should be provided with one or more of these. They are made for the pur- pose of carrying artificial flies in the smallest possible compass, without pressing or injuring them. There are many other neat and useful articles which anglers use: indeed, some anglers are extremely fastidious in their angling apparatus, and aim at perfection in everything. Those AND HOW TO USE IT. 17 articles only have been described in these pages which are considered actual and indispensable requisites to the practical angler. Where and how to procure and prepare Worms AND Gentles for Angling. WOKMS. Lob-worms are the largest that are used in angling; they may be found in cultivated jSelds, but are more abundant in gardens. They are generally found by digging or stirring the ground; and they may be collected in great numbers, late in the evening and very early in the morning, when they crawl out of the ground. They may also be quickly procured by pouring a strong solution of salt and water upon the ground, which induces them to come to the surface. The marshy or hlue-headed worm, is common in marsh lands, and may be found under lumps of cow-dung. They may also frequently be found in gardens and fields, and in any rich mould. They may also be collected on pas- c 18 THF FISHING-ROD ; tures and commons at night, by going with a candle and lantern in search of them. Brandlings, — These are found in old dung- hills ; they are small worms striped across the back with red and yellow — ^they require to be well scoured before using, because of the pungent matter they contain. They should be kept three or four days in fresh moss, which should be changed at intervals. Red worms are 'also found in old dunghills, and in rich loamy garden mould, and also in refuse bark-heaps in the tanners' yards. Eed worms have a sort of knot, or light-coloured belt, across the middle. As a general bait there is nothing equal to a red worm, scarcely any fish refuse them. Bed worms are the best ofaU. Blood worms. — These are bred from the excrements of cows and horned cattle, and may be found in farm-yards ; they are of a blood-red colour, about an inch in length, and not larger than a worsted needle. They are a killing bait for small fish, and they need no scouring. Tag-tail worms. — These are found in banks of clay and marl — they are a light red-coloured worm with a yellow tail. They are very strong AND HOW TO USE IT. 19 and long-lived on the hook, and require less scouring than other worms. To scour worms, — Worms become scoured and lively as baits after being kept a day or two, or more, in damp moss. They should be looked to every day, and the bruised and sickly ones removed. When moss has become dry, through long keeping, it may be freshened by pumping upon it, and then squeezing it as a sponge. Gentles or maggots. — These may generally be procured in the country at tallow-chandlers, candle-makers, or bone-gatherers ; or they may soon be bred by exposing any flesh, or animal substance, to the flies in summer. In large towns they are sold at all fishing-tackle shops. They should be put in sand a few hours before using them as baits for fishing. GUDGEON FISHING. Q-UDGEON, though very small, are an exceedingly delicious flavoured fish when in season; that is, in spring and autumn : but in summer they are not near so palatable. The most expedi- tious mode of taking them is with the cast-net ; and as they are gregarious in their habits, 20 THE FISHING-ROD ; they may be taken in this manner dozens at a cast. The gudgeon is also a tempting bait for the pike or jack. Gudgeon fishing affords fine amusement to young anglers ; they are a bold-biting fish, and may be caught from March to October, at any time of the day. A walking-stick rod, or light bottom rod made of cane will answer best for gudgeon fishing ; and the best kind of liae that can be used, and that with which the angler will take most fish, is made entirely of single horsehair, though fine gut will do nearly as well ; a small quill float, and No. 8, 9, or 10 hook, and the line must be shotted with very small shot. There is no bait so tempting to gudgeon as a small red worm, and the next best bait is a small gentle, or flesh maggot; they will also take paste and salmon roe. The angler must bear in mind that gudgeon are very fond of nibbling, and wiU assuredly nibble the bait off without hooking themselves unless it be carefully put on the hook, and no part left hanging down below it. Fish close to the bottom for gudgeon, and when they are slow at biting, stir the bottom so AND HOW TO USE IT. 21 as to thicken the water, and then drop your bait in the puddle. Gudgeon always rush into cloudy water, because they find their food among the caddies and other small insects which are turned up on the bottom being stirred. It sometimes answers the same pur- pose to throw in a handful of sand or gravel, also a small quantity of ground-bait. It is also an excellent plan to shift your quarters to another part of the water ; gudgeon are a roving fish, and often leave a spot as if in search of change of food. A very small float should be used, and the line shotted so that the tip only of the float is seen above water, particularly if the surface be smooth and un- niffled ; but in- rapid waters, and during windy weather, a larger float will be required. The depth must be carefully plumbed, and the bait allowed to touch or trail on the ground. Gudgeon prefer clear running streams, and a fine gravelly or sandy bottom, free from weeds and mud. In rapid shallow currents, where gudgeon are abundant, the cast-net wiD. be found a very effective means of taking them. 22 THE fishing-rod; BLEAK FISHING. These little fish may be caught with a small hook and very fine tackle, similar to that used for gudgeon fishing. The proper baits are gentles, paste, small worms, &c. ; the bait should be suspended at about mid-water, except in cold weather, when they should be angled for near the bottom : in warm sunny weather they may be taken near the surface, and frequently with a fly, or by whipping with two or three flies on a line. Whipping for bleak is good practice for the young angler ; but these fish are of very little value when taken. DACE FISHING. These fish very much resemble roach in their habits ; and the angler often takes them whilst fishing for roach ; particularly in the autumn, when they are caught in the deep currents of rivers. The tackle and baits for dace-angling should be similar to those employed for roach. In the spring season worms, grubs, and small caterpillars are good baits. In summer, gentles are the best baits that can be used ; and in AND HOW TO USE IT. 23 autmnn, pastes, and salmon roe are the most killing. In warm weather these fish swim near the sm-face ; therefore it is not necessary to fish very deep for them ; but in spring and autumn, and whenever the weather is cool, they should be fished for near the bottom : and indeed the biggest fish are always caught in deep water. Dace bite freely and sharply, and should be struck with smartness and precision : they are bold little fish, and when hooked, struggle des- perately, often breaking the fine tackle of a young angler. Ground-bait will be found very enticing to dace ; and if thrown in an hour or two before commencing to angle, it will assist the angler in his sport. The ground bait for dace should be hard and tough ; and not anything they can eat up quickly : balls made of brown oatmeal and treacle are good ground-bait, and so also is ground malt. Dace may be taken with the fly ; indeed they sometimes afford the fly-fisher excellent sport, particularly from the middle of the month of April to the latter part of October. A small dark-coloured artificial fly will kill best : and red, brown, and black are the most attractive 24 THE fishing-rod; colours to these fish. It is a very good plan to use three flies at once, each about a yard apart on the line : and in this way let the black one be the lower fly, and put a gentle on the hook : the others, called drop flies, should be one red and one brown. By this mode of fishing dozens of dace may sometimes be taken. Dace bite best in hot weather, and early in the morning or late in the afternoon. In cold weather, the middle of the day is the best time. The natural fly is also an enticing bait for dace ; particularly the flesh fly, which they will take at aU times of the day during summer : the natural ant-fly is also a favorite bait. EOACH FISHING. This is the sport with which most juvenile anglers commence ; and as these fish bite freely, there is seldom much difficulty in taking them at any season. The best times of year for roach fishing are spring and autumn. In May, Jime, and July they are out of season as a dietary article : May and June being their spawning months. Although these fish may be sometimes taken with inferior tackle and by an unskilful angler, AND HOW TO USE IT. 25 yet to become a good roach angler requires considerable practice, fine tackle, and a quick eye ; and the hand should be instantaneous in its action in order to hook a roach skilfully. It is only the large or heavy fish that the skilled roach angler troubles himself to fish for ; and as these are seldom to be taken except in deep waters, and are ten times as cunning as the thousands of hungry little ones which throng the shallows and banks of every pond, lake, and stream, the young angler vdll find he has always something to learn even in roach fishing. And let us remind him that the cap- ture of large roach, of a pound and upwards in weight, from a depth of ten feet of water with a single hair line, requires as much skill, and affords as fine play, as any fish of its size. For roach fishing use a light bamboo rod, of from 16 to 18 feet in length, with a fine but stiff top-piece ; a line made of single hair, or very fine gut, a quill float, and No. 10 or 11 short-shanked hook. Put all the shot close together, and within 12 inches of the hook The hue should be shotted in such a manner that the tip only appears above water; and the spare line between the float and the tip 26 THE FISHING-BOD ; of the rod should not be more than 12 or 18 inches, or many a fine bite will be missed on striking, as it will also if any portion of the line be hanging slack at the moment of a nibble. Koach sometimes bite very fine, par- ticularly the heavy fish; and the proper way in roach angling is, to strike at the very instant of the least nibble. Be careful to keep the top of your rod always over the float, and the slightest jerk upwards wiU hook a fish. Keep as much out of sight as possible when fishing for roach ; and on hook- ing a fish, raise the top end of the rod and keep the butt end down close to the ground ; play the fish under the point of the rod, and if a heavy one, and your line be single hair, a land- ing net will be required to land it. Let the young roach angler remember that his success in taking large fish will depend very much on the fineness of his tackle. A very good roach line may be made with double hair down to the float, or a few inches below it, and the rest single hair ; the object of which is, that in the event of the line breaking, the breakage would take place on the single hair, and thus the float would be saved. AND HOW TO USE IT. 27 There is no better or more general bait for roach fishing than paste, which may be made in the following simple manner : — ^take a piece of crumb of bread from a new or second da/s loaf, dip it in clean pure water, take it out again directly, squeeze out the water, and then, with clean washed hands, knead it in the palm of the left hand with the thumb of the right : after about ten minutes hard kneading, a tough white paste will be formed, which will adhere firmly to the hook though the current be ever so rapid; and it is also as tempting a bait as any that can be used for roach fishing. Sometimes a little colouring of vermiUion will make it more enticing — a very small quantity only of this should be added, just suflicient to make the paste of a pale pink or salmon-roe colour. In summer, gentles are also a very good bait for roach ; and in winter they will take small red worms and brandlings. The paste, however, is the most rehable bait at all seasons of the year, and that with which the largest roach are generally taken. Always plumb the depth before commencing bottom fishing ; and, when using a hair or gut line, it is a very good plan, after having found 28 THE fishing-kod; the correct depth, to leave the line in the water a few minutes with the plummet attached : meanwhile, you can be casting in ground-bait, and your line will become straight and soft, and consequently more manageable and less likely to break. In hot weather roach do not swim so deeply in the water as when it, is cold and cool. The angler must therefore regulate the depth at which he fishes accordingly. It is sometines necessary to plumb the depth a second and third time in course of a few hours fishing, by reason of the float having moved up or down the line, or from the water rising or falHng through the action of tides, opening flood-gates, stopping or starting mill- wheels, &c., either of which may so interfere with the angler's success that he T\dll probably find the fish will leave off" biting. It is a very good plan whilst angling for roach to throw in at difierent intervals a ground- bait of small peUets of bread and bran, kneaded together so as to make the pieces tough. Eoach are in season from September to March. It has often been observed that some of the London anglers are the most skilful roach- AND HOW TO USE IT. 29 fishers in the land. Any one who has been in the habit of going out with them, and seen the dexterous manner in which they hook their fi^h on the slightest nibble, will be disposed to agree in that opinion. When fishing for roach with the artificial fly, the bait is made more enticing by putting on the hook a white gentle ; do not move the fly quickly on the water, but rather let it glide with the current ; and when you would shift it do so by short and slow movements. BEEAM FISHING. The bream is not a very choice fish for the table, but it affords fine sport to the angler, being a bold biter, and hard struggler when hooked. On angling for these fish plenty of ground- bait should be thrown in over night, or an hour or two before fishing for them. The best kind of ground-bait is greaves, new grains, chopped lob worms, or bran and clay made into balls. A long rod and running tackle is required for this sport, and a gut line should be used at the lower end, with a quill float and No. 8 or 9 hook. Well scoured red worms are the best baits ; and the best time of day for the sport 30 THE fishing-rod; is early in the morning and late in the even- ing. When greaves have been used as ground- bait, some of the whitest pieces should be preserved ; they will be found a very good and tempting bait. The depth of water must be carefully plumbed, and the bait should be allowed to just touch or trail on the bottom. If the water be wide, fish as far from the bank as you can, and for that purpose a long rod will be found most useful. Where bream are abundant, large numbers may sometimes be taken in a short time ; particularly if three or four rods are employed over the spot ground-baited. But as these fish move about in shoals, there are often bites at all the hooks at once ; it is therefore necessary that there should be one person to attend each rod: or, as is often the case where the fish are heavy, one or two of the rods may be dragged into the water, or the lines broken. There is no occasion to be in a hurry on perceiving a bite when bream fishing ; but rather give them time, and do not strike until the float disappears, or the fish moves off* with the bait. When first hooked, a bream rushes AND HOW TO USE IT. 31 off with the line with all its strength : but after a few hard struggles, turns on its side, and is then an easy captive to a skilful angler. On first hooking a bream, the angler should pay- out the line freely before attempting to turn it. The favourite resorts of bream, are the broadest parts of fresh water rivers ; they are also generally abundant in lakes and large ponds, where there is a fresh current of water running through them. Bream are by nature a greedy fish, and will sometimes take pastes, caddis-bobs, and grubs : they will also take the house-fly, stone-fly, flesh-fly ; and in the evening moths. The angler must be particular in keeping out of sight, as bream often rise to the surface as if to reconnoitre, and then dive again to the bottom. BAEBEL FISHING. The barbel, though not a very choice fish for the table, affords the angler excellent sport. It is generally a bold-biting fish, though the large ones are sometimes very crafty, and when hooked they are so strong and cunning, that they often lie motionless at the bottom of 32 THE fishing-rod; the water some minutes, and they run under roots and banks, or into large beds of weeds, struggling hard, or trying by every possible manoeuvre to perplex the angler. The rod and tackle necessary for barbel fishing must be stout and strong : use a winch and running tackle, gut line, cork float, and No. 6 or 7 hook : and if the fish are not large. No. 8 or 9 hook will be preferable, because the barbel has a small mouth ; but of such tough and leathery substance, that if once hooked there is no fear of the flesh breaking away. Hooks for this sport should be made of stouter wire than is used for other fish : indeed there are hooks made specially for barbel fishing. The best baits for barbel fishing are red worms, gentles, and greaves: and the bait should touch or hang within two inches of the bottom. It is always best in barbel fishing to be provided with all three baits, because these fish are sometimes changeable in their tastes, and appear to grow tired of one bait, which, the hour previously, may have been most enticing. It is a VQry good plan, particularly when the water is discoloured, to put two small red worms on the hook. AND HOW TO USE IT. 33 The barbel bites suddenly and sharply, it is therefore necessary to strike promptly and firmly. Having hooked a barbel, raise the top of the rod and allow the fish to run off some distance before turning it : keep it away from weeds, and play it a considerable time before attempting to land it. If a heavy fish, half an hour will not be too long. Keep the fish in deep water, and you need have no fear of its breaking away ; as the barbel has such tough leather-like lips, that if the hook is fairly fixed, it will not draw, but probably be found on landing the fish to require cutting away. Grround-bait should be thrown in plentifully over night, for barbel ; and in small quantities frequently whilst fishing for them. Let the ground-bait consist of greaves, chopped lob- worms, or bran and clay. The greaves should be first laid to soak in cold water, two or three days. Barbel bite freely from March to November, but as they spawn in April or May, they are out of season from the beginning of April to the end of June. Early in the morning and late at night are the best biting times for these fish. D 34 THE fishing-rod; The favorite haunts of barbel are mill-pools, mill-tails, deep holes, and eddies ; and in warm weather they haunt beds of weeds, and shal- lows; and roost and bury their noses in gravelly or sandy bottoms like pigs : they grub after worms, water snails, and fresh-water shrimps. The angler must remember that barbel have small mouths, and a large bait is less enticing to them than one of small or moderate size. Barbel are also very fond of lurking under steep or overhanging banks : and in clear water they may sometimes be seen lying still as stones on the bottom ; and on such occasions they appear quite fearless and unsuspicious, and are often taken by simply letting down a line and hook with a lump of lead, which being skilfully dropped and pulled sharply, hooks them " foully," as it is termed, i.e. in any part of their bodies ; and they are then hurried into a landing-net or drawn ashore. When fishing for barbel in deep rapid waters, a hook of the size No. 4 or 5 will not be too large : and when the water has become thickened by rain, a lob worm is the best bait. AND HOW TO USE IT. 35 When the water is clear, there is no more enticing bait for barbel than the white pieces of soaked greaves, with a gentle on the tip of the hook. In barbel fishing it is highly important that the depth be carefully plumbed, and the bait suspended within an inch of the bottom ; and if it touches, it will do as well : some barbel- anglers always let their baits touch the bottom. Besides the baits already mentioned, barbel will also take cheese, green gentles, and salmon- roe. Walton says " sheep's tallow, and soft cheese beaten or worked into a paste'' is a choice bait for barbel in the month of August. It is a very usual practice, particularly in the neighbourhood of London, to angle for barbie from a fishing-punt; in which case, a short strong rod should be employed^ with a platted silk running line. It is of no use to angle for barbel in cold or winterly weather : they will not bite freely until the spring is weU advanced and the frosts are gone. Barbel always bite best in rainy weather ; and about the hours of sunrise and sunset in warm weather— they will also bite at night. 36 THE fishing-rod; In very dry weather they never bite well ; nor will they when the wind is easterly : but when the barometer indicates the approach of rain they generally bite freely. After a heavy rain, and during a flood, they always feed greedily ; and such is the time when the heaviest creels are made in barbel fishing. TENCH FISHING. The tench is of the carp species ; it is also to be angled for in the same manner and with the same baits as for carp : the scales of the tench are very small and close, and of a greenish gold colour : and the whole is covered with a slimy substance, which is said to emit a balsamic or heahng power to other fish. Tench thrive best in ponds where the bottom is gravelly or clayey : it is, however, a fish that is frequently taken in rivers and lakes ; but it is always very shy and wary in its habits. It is also found to thrive sometimes in stagnant, weedy and muddy waters ; but the flesh is not so good or whole- some as when taken from a pure water-pond. Use a strong bottom-rod for tench fishing, a quill or small cork-float, a gut-line, and running-tackle ; with a No. 6, 7, or 8 hook. In AND HOW TO USE IT. 37 pools and large ponds, a rod of extra length is necessary. The bottom must be carefully plumbed, and the bait should be suspended only an inch or two from the mud; but if a firm clay or gravel bottom, the bait may just touch the ground. In sultry weather, tench (Hke carp) delight to get into the weedy beds and shallows of the waters they frequent ; but on the slightest sus- picion of alarm, they instantly stir the mud with their noses and thicken the water ; at the same instant darting off under cover of the cloudy water. The best baits for tench are worms, paste, and gentles. In the early spring season they prefer a small red worm ; but in summer and autumn there is no bait so enticing as sweet paste, which should be made as follows : — Take a piece of the crumb of a new or second day's loaf, put one or two teaspoonsful of honey (ac- cording to the size of the piece of bread) knead the bread and honey in the palm of the left hand with the thumb of the right, work it about weU, for the space of ten minutes or more, until the honey is thoroughly imbibed, and the bread has become a beautiful soft white paste. This is the 38 THE FISHING-KOD ; most killing paste that can be used, whether for tench, carp, roach, or indeed any fish that will take paste; and when well kneaded, it is so tough, although soft and pliable, that it will adhere firmly to the hook, though it be used in a rapid current. And it is sometimes more enticing when coloured with a little vermillion ; just sufficient to make it of a pinky or salmon- roe colour : but in general I have found the pure white the best bait ; and it is only when the fish have become too much accustomed to the white paste that a change to the pink paste is of advantage. Before kneading pastes the hands should be washed thoroughly clean, and well-rinsed and cooled in pure cold water: when kneaded with perspiration upon the hands, pastes are often refused by large, well-fed, or dainty fish. Gentles are used for tench fishing with best success in autumn, or late in the summer. It is a very good plan to ground-bait the spot intended to be fished for tench : and if ground- baited very early in the morning, two or three days in succession, go on the following morning ; and instead of throwing in ground-bait, merely toss in two or three Kttle pieces of the paste AND HOW TO USE IT. 39 or bait with which you are fishing, and angle in the same spot, and you will assuredly be rewarded with good sport. There is no better or more successful mode of taking the most crafty tench and carp than this. Indeed, after all other attempts have failed, I have had splendid success in this way. The fish become accustomed to their feeding haunts and feeding hour, and sometimes seize the bait directly it reaches the bottom, just as they would the ground-bait on which they have been fed several times, and partaken of with impunity. After a heavy summer-rain, tench may some- times be taken with a small white snaU. When tench are in shallows, or among weeds, they may be angled for without a float, by merely dropping the bait in the spot where the fish may be ; and this is easily discovered by watching where the weeds move, or bubbles are made, or the water a little clouded. It is seldom that tench will bite earlier than the month of April or later than October. They spawn in the month of June, and the latter part of May ; at which time they are out of season, and not very good for the table. Tench are not often met with of a larger size 40 THE fishing-rod; than six pounds ; those from three to four pounds are the firmest and best for the table. Always give a tench time in biting : it is soon enough to strike when they begin to move off with the bait. CARP FISHINa. Carp are the boldest and yet the most crafty fish that inhabit the ponds and rivers of this country. None but the most patient and skil- ful anglers succeed in taking large well-fed carp; though small ones may sometimes be taken with humble tackle, and by a very inferior angler. In some ponds, however, where they are very abundant, and there is little food for them, they sometimes bite with astonishing avidity. I know a large, deep, muddy pond in which the carp are so prolific, that once in about every seven or eight years, hundreds appear to die, and float on the surface as if seized with an epidemic. They are then raked off the water, carted away, and used on the land as manure. I have observed that during the two or three seasons preceding this singular phenomenon, they swim round and about the pond during the hot weather, in AND HOW TO USE IT. 41 shoals, consisting of several hundreds ; all of a size varying from 1 J pounds to 3 pounds ; and I have found, that, by ground-baiting a particu- lar spot over night, or early in the morning, and then angling for them with paste or worms, they would sometimes bite so freely, that no sooner than one fish was landed and the hook re-baited, another bite was made, and another fi^h taken. I have gone to this pond two or three times a week, with a brother angler, and we have frequently taken more carp than we could, individually, lift from the ground ; and not one of the fish has been under the weight of 1 J pounds ; and from that up to 4 pounds. But the carp we used to take in this pond were as inferior in flavour to those taken in another pond in the adjoining county, as a barbel is to a salmon. In rivers, carp are generally found in the deepest holes, and near beds of weeds and rushes. Carp taken from a rich gravelly loam, or sandy-bottomed pond, are always of much finer flavour and quality than those taken from a dark, muddy, or fenny pond. And though they are more proUfic in the fenny-bottomed waters, 42 THE fishing-rod; they do not grow to so large a size as in a gravelly-bottomed pond. The carp and tench taken from the latter, I have always found of delicious flavour, and well worth the care and trouble required in dressing for the table. Among the various modes of cooking carp, I have always given preference to that of having them stuffed as a pike, and roasted or baked. To my palate they are then truly deUcious. For carp fishing use a long rod, with winch and running-tackle, also a small quill-float and gut-line, with a No. 7 or 8 hook : and remem- ber, that the gut-line must be as fine and transparent as is consistent with the strength of the fish : and if you are sufficiently skilled to play and kill a carp with a single hair line, by using such, your success will be the more certain. Carp are so extremely wary, that it is only with very fine tackle that large fish can be hooked. It is indispensable that the carp angler should keep in the background, and let no moving object or shadow rest within sight of the fish. Do not be constantly taking your line out and examining the bait; but rather, having carefully baited the hook with a good- AND HOW TO USE IT. 43 sized piece of the paste, such as that recommen- ded for tench fishing at page 37, drop the bait lightly into the water, over the spot pre- viously ground-baited and plumbed, and there leave it until you perceive a bite : though 15 or 20 minutes or more elapse, do not disturb it ; by leaving it a long time your chance will be better. When a carp bites do not instantly strike, unless the fish appears to be moving off with the bait : and on the other hand do not wait too long, or the carp may discover the hook and reject the bait: strike firmly, and if your hook enters its upper lip there is no fear of its breaking away : the mouth of the carp is tough and leather-like ; and though the fish will plunge and struggle desperately, with judicious play it may be landed. The carp is a very game fish when hooked, and never resigns a contest with the angler until fairly tired and exhausted. If any weeds are near at hand, the carp when hooked, will assuredly make towards them ; and if allowed to get among them, will instantly twist round and about them and entangle the line, so that there is scarcely any hope of succeeding in capturing it. 44 THE fishing-hod; It is useless to angle for carp in cold or windy weather; indeed, the weather must be warm, and little or no wind. In warm weather carp are much in the habit of moving out of deep water into shallow places among weeds : and in ponds they sometimes venture into places where there is scarcely water to cover their backs : they may then be taken without a float, by merely dropping the bait near them : their whereabouts may be easily discovered, and they may sometimes be heard sucking the roots of the weeds, or seen as they move their tails and stir the mud. There is no fish so fond of warm sun as carp. It is for the purpose of simning themselves that they creep out of deep water into the shallowest places in the pond: and apparently for the same purpose, they may often be seen on warm sunny days leaping out of the water, a foot or two above the surface. When fishing for carp with paste, let the hook be completely buried or hidden in the bait : and though the piece be as large in size as a horse-bean, the carp, when inclined to bite, wiU take and swallow it. Large carp do not nibble, but suck in and swallow the bait, and AND HOW TO USE IT. 45 then move off: the float therefore disappears very suddenly. They sonetimes lie and suck the bait without swallowing, but whenever it be made up with honey, as soon as they taste the sweetness they swallow it. If the paste be well kneaded there is no occasion to be in a hurry to strike ; the fish cannot suck the bait off without hooking itself Carp are undoubtedly fond of sweets and sweet scents. If a little sweet perfume be added to the honey paste, the angler will sometimes be the more successful in taking these crafty fish. The best months for carp fishing are April and May : at no season of the year will they bite so freely as then : and the most killing bait that can be used is the honey paste. In the months of July and August there is no better bait for carp than a large green pea boiled in sugar : another very enticing bait is, part of a spht ripe cherry. A good ground-bait for carp may be made by mixing bran and pollard with stiff clay: divide it in pieces about the size of hens' eggs, and stick a few worms and gentles about them. The ground-bait should be thrown in over 46 THE fishing-rod; night ; and if two or three times repeated on the night preceding the morning of your excursion, your chances of success will be in- creased. Carp live longer out of the water than any other fresh water fish, the eel only excepted. Neither carp nor tench wiU take the artificial fly. CHUB FISHING. The chub, though a powerful fish and bold in its actions — often stemming the most rapid currents — is, nevertheless, extremely timid of the human form ; and on the slightest suspicion of any moving object on the banks of its haunts, darts away, or dives with astonishing rapidity. There is however this redeeming point in its character, it soon returns again to the spot from whence disturbed ; and if the angler's bait be deposited there during its absence, the chub will, probably, be ready to take it upon its return. The chub is a fish which affords the angler considerable sport ; it will take a bait at almost any time of year : and is a fish which may be caught either with the fly-rod or bottom-rod. With the fly-rod the chub may be taken with AND HOW TO USE IT. 47 moths, large flies, cockchafers, bees, &c. Eun- ning-tackle is necessary in chub fishing, par- ticularly when expecting to take large fish ; but the tackle must nevertheless be as fine as possible, or rather as fine as may be, in accord- ance with the size and strength of the fish. The baits used in chub fishing are various: for bottom fishing there is no better bait than a well scoured red-worm; greaves are also a good bait, also gentles, pastes, bullocks' brains, and the white streaky pith from the back-bone of the bullock. It is during April and May that red worms are the most kilHng baits that can be used for the chub : two small ones should be put on the hook. During the summer and autumn months, greaves and gentles are the very best baits that can be used for these fish : and in winter, bullocks or sheep's brains and pith of the back- bone are most enticing: the brains should be used as ground-bait, and the pith as bait for the hook : it may be cut up in pieces about the size of small cherries, which will not be too large for baiting the hook. The chub likes a good-sized bait ; and such is always more enticing to that fish than a small one. 48 THE FISHING-ROD ; Greaves are also an excellent ground-bait for chub : but before casting them in, select some of the whitest pieces with which to bait the hook. In baiting with greaves, put three or four small pieces on the hook so as to cover it from the point to the bend : the, pieces should each be no larger than a small bean or marrow- fat pea ; and each must be put on separately, one after the other. When the hook is baited in this manner, on striking a fish the pieces are pushed up the shank : or they break away and allow the hook to enter the fish in such a maimer that a firm hold is taken. But if the bait is formed by doubling and folding one large piece, the hook is prevented from taking firm hold of the fish. It is a very good plan when baiting the hook with greaves, to put a gentle on the point and over the barb. The greaves should not be soaked in boiUng water; because it makes them too rotten for baiting the hook. If soaked in cold water they are much tougher ; though of course a longer time is required in the soaking. When angling for chub, strike the moment the fish bites ; and, having hooked it, allow the line to run freely ; for the chub makes a bold AND HOW TO USE IT. 49 rush at first, and will break away if too sud- denly checked ; but after a few plunges is less desperate, and may be brought to shore with a gaff-hook or landing net. The favorite haunts of chub are deep holes and steep banks, under overhanging boughs and trees : and they prefer sand, gravel, and clayey bottoms. When fish- ing for chub where weeds or roots abound, use rather strong tackle ; for on hooking a fish you must keep it out of these, or it will assuredly break away. The best time of year for angling for chub is from the first of October till the first of May. And for whipping for chub with the fly, the best time of year is. May, June, July, and August. These fish sometimes grow to the size of 8 or 9 pounds and upwards. Chub have often been caught when trolling for jack; they are occasionally taken with a small live roach or minnow. When once they have made any particular hole their haunt, they always continue to use it; and hence the saying among anglers — " Once a chub hole, always a chub hole." In summer time almost any kind of artificial E 50 THE fishing-rod; fly, moth, bee, or beetle is a taking bait to the chub ; but those recommended in these pages under the head " Artificial Flies," to be used in certain months, will be found the most killing at the seasons named. PERCH FISHINa. Perch are abundant in most of the rivers, lakes, and large ponds in this country. They are also a bold-biting fish, and afford the young angler abundant sport. Their favorite haunts are flood-gates, mill-tails, and the deepest parts of rivers, lakes, and ponds. They often swim in shoals ; therefore when the angler is fortu- nate enough to meet with a shoal, at a time when they like his baits and bite freely, he may, with skill and caution, take them all, one after another. They sometimes bite as soon as ever the bait drops among them. Perch thrive best in deep sluggish rivers : in those where the current is rapid, they prefer the broadest, deepest, and stillest parts. A strong bottom-rod is required for perch- fishing, a cork float with silk or gut-line, and No. 6 or 7 hook. Although a running-line will seldom be required for perch, still the AND HOW TO USE IT. 51 perch angler should always have one at- tached to his rod; because of the chance of taking jack, pike, trout, and chub. There are several kinds of bait recommended for perch fishing, but none are so enticing as a lively worm ; either marsh-worms, brandlings, or red- worms, which have been kept in fresh moist moss two or three days. When the water is very bright or shallow, two red-worms on the same hook are the most killing bait. A minnow is also a highly attractive bait ; but as the mode of using the minnow as a bait^ is different to that of other modes of angling, it will be separately described under another head. Live shrimps are also a very good bait for perch : the largest and heaviest perch are generally taken with live minnows or shrimps. Shrimps may be kept alive longer in damp sandy gravel, placed in a basket, than if put in water and carried in a bait kettle. In absence of sand or gravel, put them in wet grass or hay: and if you wish to keep them alive a long time, moisten the grass frequently by immersing it in water. When perch bite, give them time to swallow the bait and move off with it before you strike. 52 THE fishing-rod; Plumb the depth and let your bait hang with- in a foot or so of the bottom. Sometimes it may be desirable to place two or three baited hooks on the line at distances apart of 6 to 12 inches : but, as a general rule, the angler will find better success in the use of one baited hook only. In mild weather, with light wind and showers, perch generally bite very freely : but in calm weather and in absence of rain or light wind, perch only bite well early in the morn- ing, or late in the afternoon and evening. A cloudy sky, with wind from south-west, is most favorable for perch fishing. In summer time during very warm weather, three or four gentles put on a hook, are a good bait for perch. The season for angling for perch commences in February, and may be continued with success until the latter part of October. The angler will find, that perch seldom move about much in search of food^ during midday ; their feeding times are mornings and evenings: except in tidal rivers, and at miU-taUs, and flood-gates, where they are some- times prowling about in search of food at various times of day. It is not good policy to wait long at any i^^*'- AND HOW TO USE IT. 53 particular spot when perch fishing, unless they bite. If inclined to take the bait, they wiU generally do so very soon after it is let down among them. Be sure to give a perch reasonable time when it bites : if the bait be put on the hook carefully, there is no fear of the fish leaving it : whereas by striking too soon, many a fine perch is missed. After hooking a heavy perch, play it cau- tiously, and thoroughly tire it before attempting to land it, for it may be, that the hook has but a slender hold, and will break away unless the fish be judiciously played. SPINNINa THE MINNOW. Next to fly-fishing, this is one of the most graceful and attractive branches of the art of using the fishing-rod. In many places where fish are strictly pre- served, fishing with the minnow is prohibited : but where no such prohibition exists, it will be found a highly expedient means of taking various sorts of fish. It is a killing bait for trout, perch, jack, and pike. As the whole secret of success in minnow 54 THE fishing-rod; spinning depends on a few leading or rudi- mentary principles, I shall endeavour to impress them upon my readers. The minnow-rod should be a light one: bamboo is the best material for the purpose. The length of the rod must depend on the width of the stream or waters to be fished. Sometimes a twenty-feet rod is necessary, whilst in narrow waters, or when wading, one of twelve or fourteen feet will be most useful. From twenty to thirty yards of line will be sufficent; and, when spinning, always take care to have a less length of line out, than the length of the rod, or you cannot spin with skill and precesion. On your bait being seized by a jack, you must instantly allow the line to run off the reel, so as to give time for the fish to gorge the minnow. There are various kinds of minnow-tackle sold at all the fishing-tackle shops, from which the young angler can make a selection ; and with a very little ingenuity he will be enabled to make his own tackle for spinning the min- now. It must always be remembered, that the tackle and hooks must be of a size and strength AND HOW TO USE IT. 55 proportionate mth the kind of fish, intended to be spun for ; and more particularly in accord- ance with the water. If clear and shallow, the minnow tackle must be of fine gut and small hooks. If deep and murky, and the fish heavy, strong gimp tackle will be required. The minnow-trace should be about three yards in length, with two or three swivels. The most usual kind of minnow-tackle is made as foUows : — A piece of brass-wire about three inches in length, with a loop or eye at one end, and a sharp flattened point at the other, is encased or drawn through an elongated bit of lead, cast specially for the purpose. This is thrust in at the mouth of the minnow, spear- end first, and pushed through the body, the lead lying inside the beUy of the bait : and the wire in the tail, being then slightly bent on one side, the tail of the fish remains firm in that position, which materially assists in turning the bait rapidly, and making it spin when drawn through the water. The process of thrusting the leaded wire through the minnow must be carefully performed without rubbing off the glittering scales of the little fish ; the angler should then take his trace 56 THE FISHING-ROD ; and hooks, which for this purpose consist of six or eight hooks, tied firmly to strong gat, at various distances, within the length of the minnow; some two or three together, in the form of a grapnel. The lower hooks should be just lashed to the tail of the bait with a piece of white thread ; the uppermost hook should be hooked through the gills and wire loop in the mouth of the bait, and the other hooks will then lay on one side or the back of the minnow; and the swivelled trace being then hooked on to these, the bait is ready for spinning. The minnow-tackle, such as I have described, may be used with other baits besides minnows ; for instance, small bleak, gudgeon, and roach; all of which are killing baits when well spun. Among minnows the biggest are not the most killing, choose the whitest and best shaped : and if you keep them in a pan of pure water a few days, they will become whiter, and more lively and attractive as baits ; particularly if in your ingenuity you can affix the tackle without kill- ing the minnow : though of course this cannot be done if the leaded wire be used. There are, however, many other kinds of minnow-tackle besides the one I have described. AND HOW TO USE IT. 57 The tyro must remember, that the spinning or twirling of the minnow in the water, so as to make it attractive to the fish he desires to catch, is the chief accomplishment in this branch of the art of using the fishing-rod. When gracefully spun the fish are sm-e to be allured towards it ; and then, thinking it a de- licious Kttle morsel, which is endeavouring to escape being swallowed alive, the greedy fish darts at, and seizes the deceptive bait, and generally hooks itself at the first grasp. Work the minnow against the stream, now and then drawing it across by gentle pulls of a yard or two at a time ; keep your eye on the minnow as much as you can, now drawing it gently to the surface, when spinning for trout, and then letting it steadily sink a foot or two, keeping the point of your rod down within a few feet of the surface of the water. Wlien spinning for perch or jack, the bait must be more heavily leaded than for trout ; and the minnow must be spun deeper, drop- ped into holes, and other the deepest parts of the water, drawing it about so as to spin it as briskly as may be. If you are fishing wide waters, and desire 58 THE fishing-rod; to throw the minnow a long way out, take the bait in your left hand and throw it for- ward, raising the rod with your right so as to assist it in falling lightly upon the water ; then draw the minnow gently towards you in a semicircular or zigzag course. For light spinning tackle, two shot of the size No. 3, if placed about 8 or 10 inches from the hooks, will be sufficient to keep the line and the minnow down below the surface. Kemember, the lower you keep the point of your rod, the farther it will be from the gaze of any fish which may be looking after the minnow. The young angler should look well to the minnow, and see that it spins well, or the chances are, that he will catch nothing: a turn of the wire which runs through the tail will generally keep the tail to right or left stiffly, and so cause the minnow to spin rapidly. Spinning the minnow is a sport which may be pursued at any season of the year, and in any waters where weeds do not in- terrupt the process. March and April, are, perhaps, the best months in the year for the purpose. .r-::::. AND HOW TO USE IT. 59 Izaak Walton's method of using the min- now was exceedingly simple, though I question if all the ingenuity of modern anglers can invent a better. He used simply one hook ; which being attached to a bit of gut, he simply drew the gut through the gills and out at the mouth ; then, repeating the process, and drawing the hook through the fish, the bait was tied, as it were by the gills to the gut; and the hook was then tied to the tail of the bait with a bit of thread ; the point being turned up alongside the tail, nothing could be seen of it whilst spinning in the water ; and the slack of the gut being drawn tight, the tail was pulled aside so as to make it spin; and the minnow being ten- derly handled was kept alive a long time : and with two or three shot placed below the first swivel the bait was kept under water during the process of spinning. By this simple, but exceedingly killing mode of minnow spinning, the veteran Walton pro- bably killed many fish: and he is spoken of by his pupil Cotton as "the best minnow fisher in England." The best spots for spinning the minnow are mill-taUs, flood- 60 THE FISHING-ROD ; gates, weirs, deep pools, and rapid but deep currents. The largest fish often rise to the silvery minnow, as it turns and glitters in the water, under the skilful hands of an accomplished minnow spinner : and though the fly-fisher, with all his skill, may sometimes fail to get a rise, a well-spun minnow will often draw the biggest fish out of the deepest holes. Artificial minnows are now so beautifully made by some of the fishing-tackle makers, that they are sometimes, and in some waters, as tempting a bait as the live fish. I have used various kinds with complete success. The angler should always be provided with them, particularly where there is a difficulty in procuring the Kve baits. Perch and jack take the artificial bait greedily: these should be allowed time to swallow it before striking; but trout must be struck the moment they seize it. The artificial bait called the devil-bait is eagerly snapped at by trout; but it must be well made and cleverly spun. When Kve minnows are used as baits, they should be taken out of the bait-kettle one at a AND HOW TO USE IT. 61 time with a very small hand-net ; because by putting a warm hand among the fish, it not only terrifies, but often kills or injures them. A useful little net may be made in a very simple manner with a bit of gauze and a few inches of brass wire or cane. A breeze is favorable for spinning the minnow, especially when roving for perch. TKOLLING FOE PIKE AND JACK. This is an exceedingly captivating sport, par- ticularly in those parts of the country where neither trout nor salmon are to be found. And the pike, being a ferocious and greedy fish, at certain seasons of the year it afibrds the troller and angler abundant amusement. All pike under 3 pounds weight are termed jack : and considering the large size to which pike grow, those who advocate the increase of these deUcious fish would do well to return to their native element all the jack they take under 2 pounds weight: for it seems like kilHng sucking pigs to destroy young jack. The favorite haunts of jack and pike are the quiet parts of rivers, and in clear openings among weeds. The angler should approach 62 THE fishing-rod; cautiously, keeping as much out of sight as possible ; and drop his bait in the opening : and if jack is at home he will most likely seize the bait at once; provided the time of day and season be favorable for the sport. The best baits for taking jack and pike are fresh live gudgeon, roach, minnows, dace, and bleak : and of these the gudgeon is considered best of all : though some anglers give preference to a live roach, rather than any other bait; particularly during the cold months of January, February, and March. They may also be taken with live frogs. When live fish are used as baits for pike, they should not be more than five and a half inches in length, nor less than four and a half; smaller baits may be used when trying for jack. The troUing-rod should be about 14 or 16 feet in length, and should be furnished with a short whalebone top-piece ; the whole should be ringed throughout ; though with one ring only to each joint, except the butt, which will not require a ring ; a winch, and about 20 or 30 yards of running line, will be required, and a gimp trace with swivels complete. There are so many and various kinds of AND HOW TO USE IT. 63 hooks and tackle used in fishing for pike and jack, that the limits of our space forbid a minute description of them. They are, how- ever, so well known to all anglers, and may be had in great variety at every fishing-tackle shop, that it seems unnecessary to do more than merely refer to them. Thus there are single, double, and treble hooks for live-bait fishing ; also spring-snap and dead-snap hooks, bead-hooks, spear-hooks, &c. Live-bait fishing is generally practised with a float ; though by some anglers the float is dispensed with; particularly when roving for pike or jack. Snap-fishing is employed for taking jack and pike at certain seasons, when they are out of condition and careless and indifferent of food, and are apt to eject the bait without touching it, after they have seized it. The snap-fisher strikes very sharply and suddenly, directly the fish takes the bait ; and having extra strong tackle, he drags the fish ashore at once. Snap- fishing is not recommended to the young angler. Trolling with the gorge-hook is that usually employed ; and it is considered the most killing 64 THF FISHING-ROD ; mode of fishing for jack and pike, when a small roach or gudgeon is used as a bait. To bait the gorge-hook, use a baiting-needle, by hooking it on to the looped gimp ; put the point of the needle into the fish's mouth, and bring it out at the middle of the forked tail ; draw the gimp after it, and the lead will then be in the fish's belly, and the barbs and points of the hooks outside the mouth, pointing upwards. Then pass a piece of white thread round the tail, so as to tie it to the gimp, and the bait is ready. With a gorge-hook so baited, and hooked on to the trace at the end of the trolling-line, drop the bait into the water near sedges and rushes, or other fa- vorite resorts of pike ; move it about constantly in difierent parts of the water, and if there is a pike near, it will most likely seize it, and immediately make off to its gorging haunt ; this is termed " a run." The troUer on first feeling his bait taken, must be par- ticular not to offer the sKghtest check to the line, but put the point of his rod down, and allow the fish to run off with the bait; which it sometimes does to the extent of 30 or 40 yards. From five to ten minutes must AND HOW TO USE IT. 65 then be allowed the fish for gorging, before you strike ; unless, after having run oif with the bait and remained quiet a few minutes, the fish shakes the line and swims off ; in which case the probability is, that it has gorged the bait and may be struck. It is always best to allow full time, for if once the fish has pouched the bait, it cannot get rid of it with- out hooking itself In striking to hook a jack or pike, do not do so sharply, or you may pull the bait out of the fisli s mouth without hooking it. Always wind up the slack line before striking. If the fish swims deeply and feels heavy on the line it is a fair sign that it is a large fish, and well hooked. The shaking of the line which generally takes place after the fish has gorged the bait, arises from its shaking its head to rid itself of the line. It is always a signal for striking. A heavy pike must be played carefully, for he jerks and plunges very desperately for liberty, often leaping out of the water, and then diving deeply and suddenly. It is by checking and turning the fish when swimming off, that the troUer best succeeds in tiring it, and he had better not be in too great hurry F 66 THE ftshing-rod; to land a heavy pike, though it is certainly not near so game a fish as salmon and some others. Having landed a well-fed pike, the troUer should, as soon as possible, put on a fresh bait, and try again in and about the same spot for the companion fish ; pike are gene- rally in pairs, the male and female being frequently together ; and thus the troller (like the sportsman, who, having shot the duck searches for the mallard) is often rewarded with a brace of fish of very nearly equal weight. Beware how you handle a pike : they have shark-like mouths, and it is said, the bite is venomous to human flesh. Always use a dis- gorger when removing the hook from the gullet of a pike or jack. When trolling for pike, keep as far back from the water as possible. Make your first throw near the bank, the next a little farther, and so on, gradually casting it from you, until at last you throw as far out in the stream as you can. In trolling for jack and pike let the bait occasionally sink nearly to the bottom, then AND HOW TO USE IT. 67 draw it steadily upwards towards the surface, and to right and left, drawing it up and sinking it. It is by moving it about in this way that it spins round and attracts the fish. Sometimes the jack or pike runs only two or three yards with the bait before gorging it. This occurs when the bait is seized when jack is near his haunt. • And observe, that the brighter the water, the finer must be your trace and tackle : and in very bright water you should move the bait about quicker, and draw it sharper across the stream than when the water is thick or cloudy. The troller must constantly look to his bait and keep it clean and fresh. If the scales become rubbed off, or the flesh torn, or if weeds are hanging about it, pike will not take the bait. When live fish are used as baits they cannot be too fresh, nor too carefully handled. It is not necessary that the bait should always be a live one. If the little fish are fresh and free from external injury, they wiU do ; but a live bait is con- sidered by some troUers more enticing. 68 THE fishing-rod; In playing a hooked fish, and also when you strike, turn the rod so that the winch is uppermost, or the weight of a heavy fish pressing upon the rings of the rod will not only ehafe the line very much, but may also break off" the rings. When the pike struggles very violently, yield to him a little ; do not attempt to check him suddenly, or he will break away. Never attempt to land a pike until he appears tired or tractable. Some anglers prefer the use of a float when * fishing for jack with a live bait. Whenever a float is used it should be no larger than necessary, because when drawn under water a long distance, it may alarm the fish and cause it to eject the bait ; or it may become entangled among weeds and so check the fish when running with the bait to its gorging haunt. The float should never be fixed more than 3 or 4 feet above the baited hook when fishing for pike, though the water be 6 or 8 feet deep ; and in shallow water it should be much less. AND HOW TO USE IT. 69 When using a float and live bait, it is best to keep away from beds of weeds, or the bait-fish will probably hide or entangle itself among them. On lifting the bait out of the water when trolling, always do so slowly, because it very often happens that jack attempts to seize it at the last moment, just when the bait appears to be escaping from it. I have frequently had my bait snatched at in this way by jack and pike; which, in their efforts to seize it, have leaped out of the water after it ; but in these cases I have generally found they would take the bait when next offered them. The best time of year for trolling for jack and pike is September and October, at which time they bite freely and are in good condition. They will sometimes bite at any time during summer, but the large fish are then lean and ill favored; for though they spawn in March, they do not recover their full condition until the cool autumnal weather, from which time they continue in season till the following March. Therefore in winter, whenever there is no ice to impede the 70 THE FISHING-ROD ; troUer, he may generally be rewarded with a good fish on trying his luck in waters frequented by jack. From two o'clock in the afternoon till four, is the best time for taking jack and pike; though they sometimes bite as freely from ten in the morning. During very cold weather, midday is the best time. When the water is much discoloured by floods and rain, they do not bite well ; but as soon as the water clears they take the live bait eagerly. If you troll for pike in cloudy water, try close to the banks of the river, and alongside sedges, rushes, and beds of weeds, which, on such occasions, are the favorite haunts of jack and pike. For trolling with the live-bait the hooks should be lashed to the side of the fish, and one only put through the lips : there are, however, many other modes of using the hve- bait, and tackle is now made in great variety for the express purpose. But notwithstanding these ingenious contrivances, I have always found I could kill more fish with the gorge hook and bait than with any other tackle. AND HOW TO USE IT. 71 FLY FISHING. This is unquestionably the highest and most distinguished art in which the fishing-rod can be employed. Practice and experience can alone make the angler proficient in this branch of our sport. There are so many niceties, and light and graceful movements to observe in throwing the artificial fly, and off'ering it as a natural one, that we strongly recommend all aspirants to the art, to take their initiatory lessons of some experienced and skilful fly-fisher. And the same in regard to making flies, though these may be procured in great variety, and beautiful make, of all fishing-tackle vendors. Indeed the making of flies is an art of itself, such as requires considerable experience. An artificial fly must not only be a good imitation of the natural fly, but it must also be thrown upon the waters lightly and gracefully : the angler keeping out of sight, and not frightening the fish with his rod or figure, nor with any shadow or awkward movement. The success of the fly-fisher does not always depend so much on the close resemblance of 72 THE fishing-rod; his artificial fly to the natural one, but rather on his discretion .in the form and colours best calculated to attract the fish he whips for. The young angler should commence by using a small light rod for throwing the fly, and he should accustom himself to use either hand ; by which means he will be able to throw under all difiiculties of wind and situation ; and with less fatigue than if used to throw with one hand only. He should use a taper line, which in the hands of a novice is far more manageable than one of uniform substance throughout. After practising with a short taper line, he should gi'adually increase the length ; and keep constantly trying his skill until he can throw a fly with a long line, to a few inches of the spot at which he wishes it to drop. When the tyro has sufiicient command over the rod and line to throw across a wide stream with skill and precision, he may be said to have mastered the most diflicult branch of the art. A quick eye and simultaneous action of the hand, are also highly essential qualifications in the fly-fisher. Captain Williamson, in his AND HOW TO USE IT. 73 excellent book on the art, gives the following clear and admirable directions for throwing the fly, which we quote as the best we ever saw : — "Take hold of the bend of the hook between the forefinger and thumb of your left hand, holding the rod in your right hand at its balance; that is to say, where you have a command over it, the same as you would over a well balanced whip. Let the rod point a little forward, straight before the left shoulder, the elbow being kept close to your ribs, but without the smallest constraint. First, turn your rod with a light graceful motion to the left (still the point a little lowered) and move it back again in a similar manner, from the left to the right, carrying the point of it backward at the same time, and quitting your hold of the hook, which by this means will go far behind your back; but as your next turn of the rod is forward, and as the point is then considerably lowered, your line will double back and take a new direction, so that your fly will at length be carried completely before you, and give the lead to your line. I am induced to repeat that the elbow must he kept down until the line is getting before the rod ; that 74 THE fishing-rod; it is then to be raised gradually, so as to throw forward the arm to its full length, the hand coming to a level with the shoulder ; and that this motion must be completely accordant with the fall of the fly, so that it may never be checked, but only guided to its destination ; for whenever a check takes place, the fly will descend suddenly, and cause more or less agitation on the surface. As you feel the line getting into its proper direction, carry forward your arm with an easy movement, until your hand is on a level with your shoulder. By this means, the little inclination the fly might have to tug, and consequently to be checked short when the line acquires its full extent, will be totally prevented, especially if you yield a trifle more by lowering your hand and arm a little^ keeping them in a straight Kne up to the shoulder ; this is the double turn. Thus you will cause your fly to light so very gently on the water, as often to leave you in doubt as to the precise spot where it fell, but which is frequently pointed out by the rising of a fish deceived equally with yourself by the sleight you have attained.'' AND HOW TO USE IT. 75 ^rtiftml ^Im. To attempt giving directions for making the nmnerous artificial flies used by the angler, would far extend these pages beyond their pro- posed limits : but as most, if not all, of the flies are well known by the names assigned to them by practical fly-fishers ; and can be procured at the tackle-shops by those names, a list of the flies used in each month will probably answer the full purpose of most of our readers. Flies for March. The black gnat „ black palmer hackle „ red do. „ brown do. „ golden do. „ peacock do. ,, black or dark dun The brown dun „ March brown do. ,, blue dun „ alder or red fly ,, cow-dung fly „ early dark-bodied wil- low fly Flies for April. The golden or red dun „ ash do. ,, orange-bodied do. „ great whirhng do. „ three spider flies, viz., the large or crane Also the palmer hackles, and indeed all the flies mentioned in the March list, with the ex- ception only of the early dark-bodied willow fly. fly, the middling spi- der fly, and the little spider fly stone fly oak fly green-tail fly 76 THE FISHING-ROD : Flies for May. All the palmer hackles and spider flies may be used this month. Also — The black gnat later willow fly „ cow-dung fly dun cut great whirling dun „ little do. do. „ orange-bodied do. bright yellow do. ashy do. „ cream-coloured do. blue do. iron-blue do. grey-drake or May-fly The green-drake or May-fly „ oak fly „ land fly „ stone fly „ shorn fly „ wasp fly „ bluebottle fly „ black-caterpillar fly „ evening white-winged harl fly ,, brown moth „ white moth „ cream-coloured moth. Flies for June. The palmer hackles, moth flies, and spider flies may also be used with advantage this month. Also — The house fly „ black gnat ,, humble bee „ cow-dung fly „ blue gnat „ „ dun „ hazel fly „ large blow fly „ great whirling dun The little whirling dun „ orl fly ,, oak fly „ stone fly „ ephemeral red spinners „ later willow fly „ bright yellow dun „ cream-coloured do. Flies for July. The palmer hackles, moths, dun flies, and red spinners of last month. Also — AND HOW ro USE IT. 77 The black gnat The house fly „ cow-dung fly „ large blow fly ,, large black-ant fly „ blue-bottle fly „ „ red-ant fly „ humble bee „ blue blow fly „ blue gnat „ sand fly Flies for August. The palmer hackles and The large blow fly moths „ house fly „ black gnat „ ephemeral red spinners „ cow-dung fly „ little red ant „ blue dun „ „ black gnat „ crane fly „ orange-bodied dun „ sand fly „ blue gnat „ case-winged orange fly „ red-bodied dun „ hazel fly „ little whirling do. Flies FOR September. The palmer hackles The red dun „ black gnat „ golden do. „ cow-dung fly „ blue-bottle fly „ humble bee „ cinnamon fly, or foetid „ large blow fly brown „ house fly „ alder or red fly „ blue gnat „ late dark-bodied willow „ dark dun fly. TROUT FISHING. This is one of the most attractive branches of the art of angling: and it also affords the skilful fly-fisher endless diversion. The trout is a strong and bold fish, and struggles with the angler so long as . it has strength left ; 78 THE fishing-rod; sheer exhaustion alone compelling it to re- sign the contest. As a table delicacy trout are in high repute ; they are, therefore, eagerly sought for in every stream they inhabit. The favorite haunts of the trout are rapid shallow streams ; and they thrive in the coldest of waters : but in ponds or dead waters, tln-ough which no fresh stream runs, they do not thrive, nor will they live long in such places. It appears that no currents are too rapid or too cold for trout. They spawn in October and November ; after which, they retire to the deepest and most sheltered holes in the rivers. In bottom fishing for trout, use a good light rod, about 15 or 16 feet in length, with winch and running tackle, and a No". 6 or 7 hook. There are many and various baits for trout fishing recommended by some writers on the art of angling ; but withal, there is no better bait, in the spring season, than a weU scoured, small, lively worm. No float is required when used as a tripping bait, but a few small shot must be put on the line, about 9 or 10 inches above the hook, to sink the bait. The line for trout fishing should be the best fine silk-worm gut. AND HOW TO USE IT. 79 Cast the bait into the stream, and allow it to trip gently on the bottom. The line must be shotted according to the strength of the current; if very rapid, more than twice as many shot will be required as in a steady or feeble stream. When a fish first bites, you will feel a slight tug or twitch, but do not strike immediately, wait a few moments for one or more sharp twitches ; then strike smartly, and instantly pay out your line. This mode of bottom fishing for trout requires as much skill and practice, and is almost equal in every sense of the word to fly fishing. A heavy fish generally leaps out of the water at the moment of feeling the smart of the hook ; and when it first feels the restraint of the line, it flounces and plunges with desperate efibrt. When fishing for trout, be very guarded to keep out of sight, or your efforts wiU be fruitless. If you bait with the blue-headed marl worm, or the lob-worm, one will be sufficient to put on the hook : but if you use marsh or other small worms, put two on the hook at once. The proper mode of baiting the hook with tivo ivormSj is as follows — ^put the point of 80 THE fishing-rod; the hook in the first one about an eighth of an inch below the head, run the hook down the inside and bring it out again just beyond the middle of the worm ; then push it up the line above the shank of the hook : then take the second worm and enter the point of the hook about an inch below its tail, push it up to within an inch of its head, then draw down the first worm so that the two tails meet. The best time of day for trout angling is early in the morning and late in the evening ; particularly during hot weather : and the. season for taldng them commences in March, and continues to the end of September ; soon after which they spawn. In streams where the current is not very rapid, a float will sometimes be of advantage, and in deep still water it is almost indis- pensable for bottom fishing: but whenever the water is bright and clear, the float must be a very small one, and the tackle fine, but strong: and all the joinings of the gut links must be as neatly done as possible. Trout are wary and suspicious in clear water, therefore the strictest precautions must be observed and employed. AND HOW TO USE IT. 81 Overhanging banks, deep eddies, and dark looking holes are always good and likely places into which to sink your bait for a trout. It will generally be found in such spots, that two small shots are sufficient to sink the bait, which should go down steadily and gradually, as if it accidentally fell off the overhanging bank. The practised angler, who can best perform this sportsmanlike mode of fishing for trout, uses no float. Gentles, grubs, caterpillars, and most of the various larvaB and pupae, are used as baits for trout. Salmon-roe is also used in summer, and is often found the most killing bait that can be cast to a trout. Live minnows and artificial baits, such as kill-devils, minnows, and such like, may also be employed with capital suc- cess. The mode of baiting with, and spinning the minnow has been already described on pages 53 — 61, to which we refer the tyro on this head. The artificial flies used for trout fishing have been already mentioned under the different monthly heads. 82 THE FISHING-ROD ; GEAYLING FISHING. The grayling seems to possess a peculiarity of location which has often been the subject of discussion. With but few exceptions they are found in this country in the southern and western rivers only. The best season for grayling fishing is au- tumn, but they are often taken at all seasons of the year except the depth of winter. The rod and line for grayling fishing should be light and small ; and the hook of the size No. 8 or 9. The favorite baits for grayling, are worms and gentles : the caddis is also an excellent bait: grasshoppers, caterpillars, grubs, and lobs are also much used. Salmon roe is also a killing bait. The grayling is a bold-biting fish ; but when fairly hooked, soon resigns the contest to the angler. It is best to strike on the first intimation of a bite. In the spring, red-worms are the most enticing bait: and as summer advances they may be taken with the artificial fly, such as the AND HOW TO USE IT. 83 house-fly, ant, and dun, with a gentle on the point of the hook. When fishing for grayling, try the deepest and most retired parts of the water. And it is a very good plan to fish for them as for trout, without a float, by dipping and roving, or by gently sinking and drifting the bait within an inch or so of the bottom. In whatever mode of fishing for the grayling the young angler wishes to adopt, he must use very fine tackle, and keep as far away from the banks of the waters as his rod will permit. SALMON FISHING. This is generally considered the most dis- tinguished sport that can be had with rod and line: for besides being one of the most delicious fish that swims, the salmon is also very abundant in some waters ; is a bold biter, and the largest and most game-like fish when hooked, of any that is angled for. Trout fishing is mere child's play compared with salmon fishing. The natural history of the salmon is most interesting and instructive, and would of itself 84 THE fishing-rod; fill a volume. It is, however, no purpose of our's to venture on so extensive a subject, but merely to confine our remarks to the very- pith of the art of fishing for these valuable fish. In bottom fishing for salmon, use a long and strong rod: from 18 to 20 feet is the usual length ; a large multiplying winch, and 40 yards of running line, will also be found necessary. The running line should be a stout one, made of the best silk and hair, at the end of which, should be looped a foot length of the stoutest and best gut ; which, . for general purposes, will be found sufficiently strong: but on some occasions when the fish runs very large ; fine gimp or strong double gut will be found necessary, and 60 or 80 yards of strong running line. The usual sized hooks employed in salmon fishing are Nos. 3, 4, and 5 ; though larger are sometimes required. And artificial flies are dressed for these fish of a larger size, and more gaudy than for any others. The best season for salmon angling is during the months of March, April, May AND HOW TO USE IT. 85 and June; and they will take a fly until October, but are not then in season. Worms are generally a very good and enticing bait for salmon : and there is no better plan of using the worm bait in shallows and steady currents than that recommended for trout angling, termed the *' tripping bait " (vide pp. 78 and 79) : that is, by fishing without a float. Let the Kne be shotted within 5 or 6 inches of the bait, and more or less according to the strength of the current : bait the hook with two marsh worms, and then drop the bait lightly into the water, and allow the current to trip it steadily along over the bottom; and if in gradual descent towards a pool it will be the more likely to be snapped up by the salmon ; as they lie with their heads towards the current. Many fine fish may be taken in this way with the tripping bait. Whenever the water is discoloured by rains and floods, the worm is a more killing bait than the fly. Use lob-worns when the water is much discoloured, and marsh worms and brandlings in clear water. The angler must bear in mind that the salmon is extremly watchful ; therefore every 86 THE FISHING-ROD ; precaution must be observed as to keeping quiet and out of sight. Salmon may be angled for, both by night and day. On bright nights they may be taken at any hour ; and again at early dawn. On a salmon first taking the bait, be in no hurry to strike ; allow time for gorging, and then strike firmly : salmon very frequently take a worm lightly in their lips, and then move off a short distance before swallowing it : the angler must be careful and familiar with these movements of the fish, or his success will be small. It is best on feeling a slight pull at the line, to pay it out freely ; but immediately on noticing a sudden pull, strike. Sometimes a salmon hooks itself on first taking the bait : this is easily known to the angler by the smartness of the tug ; and he must, in such case strike immediately. Having hooked a salmon, keep the line taut ; and if a heavy fish, it will lead you a merry chace ere it will submit to be landed. When you hook a large salmon you must fol- low him ; though over shoals, and across dykes, wherever he goes, you must keep up the chase AND HOW TO USE IT. 87 with him on the banks of the stream, or submit to have your tackle broken and lose the fish. Those of small or moderate size may sometimes be managed differently: but in all cases the angler must be thoroughly familiar with the strength of his tackle ; and be careftd not to overstrain it. Besides worms, there is scarcely any bait which other fish take, that wiU not sometimes be taken by salmon : they will also take shrimps, snails, muscles, cockles, limpets, &c. &c. Shrimps they will often take on the top of the water : but it is better to use shrimps on a flood tide than an ebb. Salmon may also be taken with minnows, gudgeons, small roach, dace, bleak, &c. The mode of using these for salmon fishing is precisely the same as that employed in spinning and troUing for trout, jack, perch pike, &c. The minnow, when well spun, is indeed a most captivating bait for salmon: the largest fish are sometimes taken with it ; and there is also the double chance of taking many a fine trout, whilst spinning the minnow for salmon. LONDON: THOMAS PIPER, PRINTER, PATERNOSTER ROW. TAVllSTBERRO^V^'S DANDELION, CAMOMILE, AND RHUBARB PILLS, AN effectual cure of indigestion, all stomach complaints, and liver aflFections. In cases of constipation these pills never fail in producing a healthy and permanent action of the bowels, so that in a short time aperients will not be required ; and being quite as innocent as castor oil, they may be given to children. From Dr. Dick, Lansdown Terrace, Kensington. Sir, — Send me another bottle of your Dandelion, Camomile, and Rhubarb Pilla for my own use. I lose no occasion of recommending these pills, as I can conscientiously do so. Your», &c. ROBT. DICK, M.D. The extensive sale and universal approval of these pills have been such as to induce several individuals to imitate them, against which the public are cautioned. PREPARATION OF MYRRH, Having been used extensively for more than twenty years with most satis- factory results, he conceives it unnecessary to say more than it is an effectual remedy : — 1st. In disease of the gums, particularly scurvy, those which recede from the teeth, and are tender. 2nd. For the preservation of the teeth. 3rd. For preventing teeth which are decayed from becoming worse. 4th. For the prevention of toothache. 5th- For pui'ifying the breath, which may be affected by the state of the stomach, or any other cause, imparting at the same time a most agreeable and refreshing effect. Prepared by TWINBERROW, Operative and Dispensing Chemist, 2, Edwards Street, Portman Square, London ; and may be had of all Patent Medicine Vendors in the United Kingdom. IMPORTANT TO SPORTSMEN. T^VI]SrBERRO\^^' S IMPERVIOUS SOLUTION, For the Purpose of applying to SHOES, BOOTS, &c., thereby making them perfectly "WATERPROOF, however much exposed to the weather. DIRECTIONS FOB USK. With great care warm the solution, and apply it with a brush from time to time, until the leather is perfectly saturated, and a film is left upon the surface, then expose your boot or shoe to the sun to dry. It renders the leather agreeably soft, and capable of being polished in the ordinary way. H ' HANDBOOKS OF FIELD- SPORTS, ETC. In Foolscap Octavo, price 2s. 6d. each. THE DOG; AND HOW TO BREAK HIM: with -*- His Diseases and Methods of Cure. By J. B. JOHNSON. Second Edition, Eevised and Enlarged. THE aUN; AND HOW TO TO USE IT. By J- J. B. JOHNSON. Second Edition, Revised and Enlarged. THE HORSE; AND HOW TO RIDE HIM. By J- JOHN BUTLER. THE FISHING-ROD; AND HOW TO USE IT. -L By GLENFIN. THE CRICKET-BAT; AND HOW TO USE IT. -*- By AN OLD CRICKETER. THE BOAT; AND HOW TO MANAGE IT. By J- SALACIA. BAILY BROTHERS, CORNHILL. Second Edition, Foolscap Octavo, Price 5s., THE GAMEKEEPER'S DIRECTORY; CONTAINING INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE Preservation of Game, Destruction of Vermin, and the Prevention of Poaching, &c. &c. By J. B. JOHNSON, AUTHOR OP "THE SPORTSMAN'S CYCLOPEDIA," "SHOOTER'S COMPANION," &C. Contents : — Grouse. — ^The Pheasant. — The Partridge. — Mode of hatching the Eggs of Pheasants or Partridges, when the parent bird has been killed, or the nest forsaken by her. — Of Vermin. — The "Wild Cat.— The Tarten.— The Polecat.— The Stoat.— The Weasel.— The Hedgehog.— The Snake and the Adder.— The Rat. — The Fox.— The Kite.— The Buzzard.— The Sparrow-Hawk. — The Hobby.— The Terlin.— The Kestrel.— The White Owl.— The Brown or Wood Owl, — The Eaven. — The Carrion Crow.— The Rook. — The Hooded or Royston Crow. — The Jackdaw. — The Magpie.— The Jay.— The Starling.— The Gull. — The Heron.— The Coot or Water Hen.— Of Water Birds in general.— The Otter. Trapping. — Observations on the use of Poison in the destruction of Vermin. — Hereditary Instinct. — Observations on Poaching, and the means of preventing it. — The Game Laws. — Steel Man-Traps. — Dog Spears. — General Observations. W. KENT AND CO., PATERNOSTER ROW. NEW SPORTING PERIODICAL. Published Monthly, Price Is. 6d. BAILY'S MONTHLY MAGAZINE OF SPORTS AND PASTIMES, AND RACING REGISTER. RACING. CRICKETING. HUNTING. ANGLING. SHOOTING. ARCHERY. COURSING. AQUATICS. The following Portraits J lave already appeared — Hon. Admiral Rous The Marquis of Exeter The Duke of Bedford The Earl of Zetland The Duke of Beaufort The Earl of Derby George Payne, Esq. The Earl of Chester- The Earl of Glasgow field. The Leading Professional Sporting Writers are engaged upon the Work, assisted by Amateurs of known proficiency in their several departments of the Sports of the Field. London :— BAILY BROTHERS, CORNHILL. Now Ready, scarlet cloth, gilt edges, price 2s. 6d WHO'S WHO IN 1859. BEING A PEEEAGB, BAEONETAGE, KNIGHTAGE, PAKLIAMENTAEY GUIDE, &c. &c. Opinions of the Eress. " Much convenience was promoted by the publication of a manual which, in a small space, and with an arrangement affording the readiest reference, combined information relating to the Peerage, the House of Commons, the Baronetage, and Knightage, including the several Orders of Merit of the United Kingdom ; the Judicial and Official Staff in all its departments, the Church, the Bar, the Army and Navy, the Diplomatic Corps, — English and Foreign, — the Governors of our Possessions Abroad, the Universities ; a Guide to all the Assurance Offices, Clubs, Museums, and other public places ; with a series of dates attached to every section of the information given, which is quite marvellous for its extent and accuracy. There is also an Obituary of Distinguished Persons for the past year, and a comprehensive Almanack. 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Containing, in the simplest form, an explanation, of the manner of performing twenty different evolutions on the ice. London :— BAILY BROTHERS, CORNHILL. In demy 4tto, cloth, gilt edges, price 9s. FELIX ON THE BAT; BEING A SCIENTIFIC INQUIRY INTO THE USE OF THE CRICKET BAT, TOGETHER WITH THE HISTORY AND USE OF THE CATAPULTA, A DISSERTATION ON THE DIFFERENT STYLES OF BOWLING; With valuable suggestions as to the Management of the Field when employed under the operation of Fast and Slow Bowling, and a scientific investigation into the vexata-questio of Leg BEFORE Wicket. ALSO THE LAWS OF THE GAME, AS REVISED BY THE MARYLEBONE CLUB. Illustrated with Seven Coloured Plates and Twenty-eight Woodcuts and Diagrams. The most comprehensive and important work on the art of Cricket ever published. In foolscap 8vo, cloth, gilt edges, price Ss. Qd. ON THE LAWS AND PRACTICE OF HORSE RACING, &c. &c. BY THE HONOURABLE ADMIRAL ROUS, R.N. CONTENTS. On Riding Races. Queen Plate Articles. The 40 Rules of Horse Racing in general. The Newmarket Rules. Remarks on the Rules con- cerning Horse Racing. On the Duties of Racing OflS- cials. Numerous Racing Cases and Betting Cases. On Handicapping. Standard Weight for Age. Newmarket Rules. " To Stewards at Races, Clerks of Courses, and all people connected with the Turf, this hook is invaluable." London :— BAILY BROTHERS, CORNHILL. BAILTS SERIES OF WINNERS, From Paintings by J. F. Hereing, sen., and Haeby Hall. Beautifully coloured, Price XI. Is. each. No. 1. Beeswing No. 24. Surplice No. 2. Charles XII No. 25. Flying Dutchman No. 3. Cotherstone No. 26. Voltigeur No. 4. Poison No. 27. Canezou No. 5. Nutwith No. 28. Teddington No. 6. Confidence No. 29. Nancy No. 7. Alice Hawthorn No. 30. Newminster No. 8. Orlando No. 31. Daniel O'Kourke No. 9. Princess No. 32. Stockwell No. 10. Foigh-a-Ballagh No. 33. West Australian No. 11. Meny Monarch No. 34. Irish Birdcatcher No. 12. The Emperor No. 35. Melbourne No. 13. The Baron No. 36. Andover No. 14. Sweetmeat No. 37. Kt. of St. George No. 15. Pyrrhus the First No. 38. Virago No, 16. Mendicant No. 39. Wild Dayrell No. 17. Alarm No. 40. Eataplan No. 18. Slane No. 41. Ellington No. 19. Gladiator No. 42. Blink Bonny No. 20. Sir Tatton Sykes No. 43. Beadsman No, 21. Cossack No. 44. Musjiid No. 22. Van Tromp No. 45. Thormanby No. 23. The Hero No. 46. St. Albans. London -.—BAILY BROTHERS, OORNHILL. Just published, large octavo, price One Guinea, with 13 highly- finished Engravings on steel, and several "Woodcuts. THE WILD-FOWLER, H. 0. FOLKAED, Esq., A Treatise, Historical and Practical, on the art of Fowling : Decoys and Flight-ponds ; with mode of Capturing Wild-fowl alive, Punting by Daylight and Moonlight, Shooting- Yachts, Boats, and Canoes; Wild-fowl, Woodcock, and Snipe-Shooting, &c. &c. Also, by the same Author, price 10s. 6d., with numerous and • beautiful Illustrations {Second Edition)^ THE SAILING-BOAT: A Treatise on Boat-Sailing ; with the varieties in Rigging, Fitting' and Sailing ; Causes of Boats Capsizing, &c. &c. LONDON : W. KENT AND CO., PATEKNOSTER ROW. TO ANGLERS. Begs to draw the attention of Anglers in general to his Stock of celebmted GLUED-UP TRIANGULAR SALMON, TROUT, & SPINNING RODS. ALSO, TO HIS IMPROVED RODS FOR THAMES FISHING, WINCHES, LINES, FLIES, &c. &c., AT MODERATE PRICES. Manufacturer to the Emperor and Empress of tlie French, and Holder of the Great Exhibition and New York Prize Medals. MANUFACTORY, 126, OXFORD STREET, LONDON. Catalogues Gratis, MESSRS. EATON AND DELLER, 6 & 7, CKOOKED LANE, LONDON BEIDaE, E.G., Beg to call the attention of Noblemen and Gentlemen to their Large Assortment of First-Class SALMON AND TROUT RODS, WINCHES, AND LINES. CHOICE SALMON GUT. Flies of every description for Norway and other Salmon Fishing ; Lake and River Trout Flies dressed to any pattern. Artificial Bait in great variety. Ronalds' Fly Cases, containing specimen Flies for each month, with suitable entomological extracts complete, One Guinea. Philhp's Limerick Hooks. FISHING-RODS AND TACKLE. FIRST-CLASS ©ALlVEOISr, THOXJT, & OTHEI^ HODS, Artificial Flies and Baits, Lines, Reels, Gut, and all the newest and most approved Tackle, MAY BE HAD AT WHOLESALE AND RETAIL MANUFACTORY, 37e, STRAISTD, "W.C. RODS REPAIRED.-CATALOGUES GRATIS. The " Francis " and " Judicious Hooker " Flies supplied, Also " Francis's " New Tackle for Trout, Pike, Ferch, ^c. ii homeHjse circulation department main library This book is due on the last date stamped below. 1 -month loans may be renewed by calling 642-3405. 6-month loans may bo recharged by bringing books to Circulation Desk. Renewals and recharges may be made 4 days prior to due date. 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