MUNICIPAL LESSONS 
 
 FROM SOUTHERN 
 GERMANY 
 
 HENRY S. LUNN, M.D., J. P. 
 
 mm
 
 MUNICIPAL LESSONS FROM 
 SOUTHERN GERMANY
 
 MUNICIPAL LESSONS 
 FROM SOUTHERN 
 GERMANY * * * 
 
 BY 
 
 HENRY S. LUNN, M.D., J.R 
 
 HONORARY SECRETARY OF THE BRITISH MUNICIPAL SOCIETY 
 
 FOR PROMOTING THE STUDY OF FOREIGN AND COLONIAL 
 
 INSTITUTIONS 
 
 WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY 
 
 THE RIGHT HON. SIR JOHN GORST 
 
 LONDON 
 T. FISHER UNWIN
 
 
 -7 
 
 28 OCT 1920 
 
 )!■ 
 
 PRINTED AND BOUND BY 
 
 HAZELL, WATSON AND VINEV, LD., 
 
 LONDON AND AYLESBURY.
 
 rs 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 >■ 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 PAGE 
 
 CO INTRODUCTION I 
 
 « FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN .II 
 
 CHAPTER II 
 GERMAN MUNICIPAL GOVERNMENT 22 
 
 CHAPTER III 
 § THE EDUCATIONAL SYSTEM OF FRANKFORT ... 29 
 
 C0 
 
 «^ CHAPTER IV 
 
 METHODS OF TOWN EXTENSION IN FRANKFORT . . 38 
 
 CHAPTER V 
 THE STREETS AND ROADS OF FRANKFORT ... 45 
 
 CHAPTER VI 
 THE STREET-CLEANSING OF FRANKFORT . . .53 
 
 § CHAPTER VII 
 
 THE SEWERAGE OF FRANKFORT 60
 
 vi Contents 
 
 CHAPTER VIII 
 
 PAOB 
 
 NUREMBERG J2 
 
 CHAPTER IX 
 THE RECEPTION AT MUNICH 78 
 
 CHAPTER X 
 A ROYAL RECEPTION AT THE PALACE . . . .102 
 
 CHAPTER XI 
 
 THE MUNICH WATER SUPPLY AND THE BAVARIAN 
 
 HIGHLANDS IO7 
 
 CHAPTER XII 
 THE EDUCATIONAL SYSTEM OF MUNICH. . . .115 
 
 CHAPTER XIII 
 HEIDELBERG — MANNHEIM — KONIGSWINTER — COLOGNE 1 2 1 
 
 APPENDIX A 
 MEMBERS WHO VISITED SOUTH GERMANY IN MAY 1906 1 33 
 
 APPENDIX B 
 PROGRAMME OF RETURN VISIT OF GERMAN OBER-BUR- 
 GERMEISTERS, BURGERMEISTERS, AND COUNCILLORS 
 TO ENGLAND IN MAY 1906 I34
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 FACING PAGB 
 DR. ADICKES, OBER-BURGERMEISTER OF FRANKFORT 12 
 
 MEMBERS OF THE BRITISH MUNICIPAL SOCIETY AT SAALBURG, MAY 25TH, I907 20 
 
 DR. VON SCHUH, FIRST BURGERMEISTER OF NUREMBERG .... 72 
 
 DR. VON BORSCHT, FIRST BURGERMEISTER OF MUNICH . . . .78 
 
 DECORATION OF THE BANQUETING HALL, MUNICH, MAY 28tH, I907 . 96 
 
 DR. WILCKENS, OBER-BURGERMEISTER OF HEIDELBERG .... 122 
 
 HERR C. A. NIESSEN, C.V.O., BRITISH CONSUL AT COLOGNE , . . I28 
 
 vu
 
 NOTE BY THE AUTHOR 
 
 I WISH to acknowledge the kind help which I have received 
 in preparing the following account of the Visit of the British 
 Municipal Society to Germany last year, from the Ober-biirger- 
 meister of Frankfort, the First Biirgermeister of Munich, the 
 First Biirgermeister of Nuremberg, the Ober-biirgermeister 
 of Heidelberg, the Ober-biirgermeister of Homburg, and the 
 Municipal authorities of all these cities, Stadtrat Dr. Ziehen, 
 Stadtrat Lautenschlager, and Professor Sieper. 
 
 I am also indebted to the following works : " Guide to the 
 Public Works of Frankfort-on-the-Main," published by the 
 City Engineer's Department, for Chapters V, VI, and VH ; 
 " Children of the State," by Sir John Gorst ; the " Reports of the 
 Gainsborough Commission on Life and Labour in Germany " ; 
 and " Roman Remains in Central Germany," by E. S. Balch. 
 
 I would also express my thanks to the authorities of the 
 City of Munich for the courtesy which provided a full report, 
 printed in German and English, of the speeches at the Banquet 
 on May 26th, 1907. 
 
 HENRY S. LUNN. 
 
 Oldfield House, 
 
 Harrow-on-the-Hill, 
 March 31s/, 1908. 
 
 ▼m
 
 MUNICIPAL LESSONS FROM 
 SOUTHERN GERMANY 
 
 INTRODUCTION 
 
 By the Right Hon. Sir John Gorst 
 
 This book contains an account of visits paid in 1907 by the 
 Committee for the Study of Municipal Institutions Abroad to 
 some of the principal cities of Southern Germany. The 
 tour was one of several similar expeditions which the Committee 
 have made in recent years to foreign parts. The plan of 
 furnishing facihties to those engaged in the administration of 
 local affairs in the United Kingdom of seeing how they manage 
 such matters abroad was an invention of Dr. Henry S. Lunn ; 
 it is not a part of the commercial enterprise of which he is the 
 head, but is designed as a public service beneficial alike to the 
 people of this country and to their foreign neighbours. The 
 expeditions are under the control of a Committee to which 
 Dr. Lunn gives the benefit of his experience and organising 
 skill, but he derives no pecuniary profit from the tours which 
 are carried out. 
 
 The German Emperor, whom certain journals and politi- 
 cians in our country credit with deep designs against Great 
 Britain, at once perceived the significance and importance of 
 the project, and appreciated the good effect it would have in 
 bringing the people of Germany and Great Britain to know
 
 2 Introduction 
 
 and understand each other better ; a close acquaintance would, 
 in his judgment, be the means of counteracting the sinister 
 misrepresentations of mischief-makers in both countries, of 
 cementing the alliance between the two nations, and of thus 
 giving an additional security for the peace of the world. 
 
 In May 1905, at a Court Ball in the Schloss at Berlin, Dr. 
 Lunn and Lord Lyveden, the Chairman of the Committee, had 
 an interview with the German Emperor with reference to the 
 first tour of the Committee, which it was intended should be 
 made in Northern Germany. The Kaiser said on that occasion 
 that he felt greatly complimented by the suggestion that such 
 an educational tour should be arranged to the cities of Germany, 
 and that he would desire his Ministers to do all they could to 
 make the visits to the various cities a success. The first 
 expedition of the Municipal Committee left England in June 
 1905, and in the interval Dr. von Meister — the Under Secretary 
 for the Interior — had been twice to England to help in making 
 the necessary arrangements, and had also visited different 
 German cities to ensure for the Committee a proper and hospit- 
 able reception. This was done when the anti-German alarmists 
 in Great Britain were in an intense fever of apprehension 
 because of the action of the Kaiser to protect German interests 
 in Morocco. The Committee in 1905 visited Aix-la-Chapelle, 
 Cologne, Berlin, Charlottenburg, and Dresden. They met with 
 unvarying kindness and magnificent hospitality from the 
 officers of the Imperial Government and the Burgomasters 
 of the cities visited. From Berlin they were, by the Kaiser's 
 express command, taken down to Potsdam and entertained 
 by Dr. von Meister. In each place the greatest pains had been 
 taken to coUect and furnish to the British Committee all the 
 information on local affairs that could be desired. 
 
 A return visit of the German Burgomasters, on the invita- 
 tion of the Municipal Committee, took place in London in 1906,
 
 Introduction 3 
 
 The most remarkable feature of this visit was the interest taken 
 by His Majesty the King in the reception and entertainment 
 of these officers. They were received at Buckingham Palace, 
 presented to the King, and addressed by him in their native 
 language. A special invitation was given to them to visit 
 Windsor Castle, where they were entertained at luncheon, by 
 the King's command, in the Waterloo Chamber. At various 
 banquets given in their honour, or to which they were invited, 
 they were addressed by the Prince of Wales, the Prime Minister, 
 and several of the Cabinet Ministers ; so that official counten- 
 ance to these Municipal Visits, which was entirely withheld 
 in 1905, was amply conceded in 1906. 
 
 The visits of the Municipal Committee in 1906 were made 
 to Ziirich, Innsbriick, Saltzburg, Vienna, Carlsbad, and 
 Budapest, and no visit was made to any of the cities of the 
 German Empire ; but in 1907 a number of cities in South 
 Germany received and entertained the Municipal Committee 
 in the manner recorded in this volume. The reader can judge 
 for himself whether there has been any slacking off in the 
 cordial feeling which was first exhibited towards British 
 Municipalities in 1905, and will be able to appreciate the zeal 
 and patriotism with which the rulers of the South German 
 States have followed the noble example set to them by the 
 German Emperor and the King of Great Britain and Ireland. 
 
 The main purpose and the chief usefulness of the tours 
 promoted by the Municipal Commitee are the instruction and 
 education of British local authorities in the possibilities which 
 local administration enjoys of improving the health, the effi- 
 ciency, and the happiness of the people generally, and especially 
 of that large class of the people who are workers. No one is 
 so foolish as to suppose that the institutions of Prussia or 
 Austria or Hungary or Switzerland can be transported bodily 
 from their native soil and planted in our own country, nor
 
 4 Introduction 
 
 that full information about them cannot be dug out of treatises 
 and Blue books and consular reports. The Committee does 
 not aspire to discover, but only to display to interested inquirers 
 foreign plans of local government which have stood the test 
 of trial and experience. But 
 
 Segnius irritant animos demissa per aureni 
 Quam quae sunt oculis subjecta fidelitas. 
 
 The alderman who has neither inclination nor leisure to wade 
 through a Report, will survey with pleasure a hospital, a school, 
 or a slaughter-house, will ask eager questions and fill his mind 
 with useful information gathered at first hand. When he 
 goes back to his city, he tells his brother aldermen and coun- 
 cillors what he has seen with his own eyes, and he is ready to 
 consider any plan by which similar advantages can be obtained 
 for the people of his own country. 
 
 He will have learnt abroad that local self-government 
 mearTs a great deal more than in common parlance is attached 
 to that term in our own country. It is more than the mere 
 administration, by a popularly elected body, of powers strictly 
 limited and defined by Act of Parliament while they are 
 jealously watched over with a grandmother's solicitude by a 
 bureau in Dublin, or Edinburgh, or London, which is bound 
 by the rigid uniformity of a red-tape system, and knows little 
 and cares less for the special needs of the locality. It is quite 
 true that in Prussia, for example, local administration is no 
 more neglected and uncared for by the Central Government 
 than in Great Britain. But the intervention is directed to 
 secure the appointment of capable municipal officers, and to 
 the prevention of jobbery. The Local Authority is credited 
 with a better knowledge than the central one of the wishes 
 and needs of the people, and has an extensive discretion for 
 initiating and carrying out measures for the common good 
 which they desire.
 
 Introduction 5 
 
 The first thing that strikes a British councillor in a foreign 
 city is the number and variety of the functions with which, 
 for the benefit of the citizens, the public authority charges itself. 
 The benevolent anxiety about the possible losses risked by 
 municipal trading is little felt abroad. Most Town Councils 
 not only supply water, gas, and electric lighting and power, and 
 make a good profit in relief of local expenditure, but also 
 finance all the hospitals, treatment of phthisis, and all the 
 schools, including colleges for advanced technical instruction. 
 In most places the Municipalities own and work the tramways 
 \\ith very low fares and very high profits ; they maintahi 
 fire-stations with the most advanced apparatus ; they have 
 abbatoirs regulated by veterinary science for the slaughter of 
 animals for human food ; in such cities as Cologne, Frankfort, 
 and Mannheim they manage enormous docks for the accommo- 
 dation of fresh-water navigation ; they maintain for the recrea- 
 tion of the citizens museums, picture galleries, parks, play- 
 grounds, baths, bands of music, and even theatres. Nobody 
 supposes that all this public social work improves the chances 
 of that bugbear of the British middle class, with which vested 
 interests so easily frighten them — Socialism. Indeed, in 
 Berlin, the Social Democrats complained that the German 
 people were made so happy and contented by their excellent 
 municipal administration that the divine discontent, essential 
 for carrying out revolutionary changes, was altogether want- 
 ing : it was a case in which the slave basely hugged his chains. 
 
 When you come to inquire why this varied administration 
 is so efficient, and why the people get such good value for the 
 expenditure of public money, of which not a sixpence is thrown 
 away, the answer is not difficult to discover. The affairs of 
 the city are managed not by amateurs, but by experts. The 
 rich, vain, ignorant upstart, who owes his position at the head 
 of affairs not to his own merits, but to the favour of a political
 
 6 Introduction 
 
 party, is for the most part unknown. The calling of a Burgo- 
 master is a skilled profession to which a life-time has to be 
 devoted. The aspirant begins as a minor official of a small 
 town ; he rises through various official grades, including 
 probably the office of burgomaster of little towns, until in his 
 ripe age, and after long proof of capacity, he at last rises to 
 be Ober-biirgermeister of such cities as Frankfort or Cologne, 
 with burgomasters under him to carry out the duties of the 
 separate departments of the city's business : from such a 
 position he may be transferred to the central national adminis- 
 tration and become finally Minister of the Interior. The 
 burgomasters are elected to their office by the Town Councils, 
 but subject to the veto of the Central Government. This 
 veto would be promptly exercised if the Council were to elect 
 a person whose antecedents and experience did not warrant 
 his capacity to fulfil the duties of his office ; and the Councils 
 therefore choose men who are already experienced in the 
 profession of local administration, and whose characters 
 warrant advancement in their profession. Once appointed, 
 an Ober-biirgermeister has a safe and permanent position ; 
 he can only be got rid of on some substantial ground, and is 
 usually entitled to a pension for the rest of his hfe from the 
 city he has served. The officer who in our local administration 
 most nearly answers to the position of the Burgomaster is 
 the Town Clerk, but he is the servant and not the master. 
 The Mayor, who is only a temporary head, may be totally 
 ignorant of civic administration ; he may owe his position to 
 great wealth, to an aristocratic title, to personal popularity, 
 to the ascendency of the political party to which he has attached 
 himself, to the support of a ring, to anything except the 
 capacity for managing the affairs of the city which is the chief 
 and indispensable attribute of a Burgomaster. It is true 
 that the Mayor, if a wise man, will adopt and carry out the
 
 Introduction 7 
 
 policy of his nominal servant the Town Clerk ; if he does, the 
 city's business goes on smoothly, and the arrangement only 
 furnishes another example of what is so common in our ad- 
 ministration, Imperial and Local, the responsibility and pomp 
 of office ascribed to an ornamental head, while the real power is 
 exercised and the strings pulled by an unkno\vn subordinate. 
 The local finance of foreign cities is based upon more 
 rational principles than our local finance at home. With us, 
 except for subsidies given for certain objects from the Imperial 
 Exchequer, all local revenue out of which the local expenditure 
 has to be provided is raised by rates on property. This is a 
 tax which falls exclusively in the long run not upon the occupier, 
 but upon the owner of property taxed. It is the part of the 
 annual value of the land which the State intercepts and diverts 
 from the pocket of the land-owner into its own coffers. This 
 is effected by making the occupier of the property pay a 
 certain percentage on the rent of the property he occupies 
 to the public. If the occupier had no rates to pay, the owner, 
 by the higgle of the market, could exact from him so much 
 more rent, and thus the money paid in rates is money that 
 would find its way into the owner's pocket if no rates existed. 
 The owners of property are well aware of this economic fact : 
 the House of Lords and the propertied classes offer on all 
 occasions a bitter opposition to the imposition of rates ; in 
 legislation they endeavour to throw all possible expenditure 
 upon the Consolidated Fund and not on rates ; they keep 
 through the central offices in London, such as the Home Office, 
 the Board of Education, and the Local Government Board 
 an effective check upon the powers of the Local Authorities 
 to levy rates ; and they have actually succeeded in persuading 
 great masses of the people that it is the poorer occupier and 
 not the richer owner who really is impoverished by high rates. 
 The delusion has been carried to such a length that in poor
 
 8 Introduction 
 
 districts like the East of London you witness the strange pheno- 
 menon of a body like the Social Democratic Federation propos- 
 ing to transfer expenditure from the rates, which the poor do not 
 pay, to the taxes, of which they do pay more than their fair 
 share. In cities in Germany every inhabitant is assessed at 
 a certain annual income, estimated according to his profession 
 or calling, the style in which he lives, and his general position 
 in the place ; and on the basis of this assessment he pays his 
 share of the local requirements. All the local revenue is dis- 
 posed of by the elected Council, to which the Ober-biirgermeister 
 has to submit his budgets of expenditure, and from which he 
 has to obtain sanction for his schemes. In this Council riches 
 have a great ascendency. The electors are divided into three 
 classes — those who make the highest payments and contribute 
 one-third of the revenue, those who make the lowest payments 
 and contribute one-third of the revenue, and the intermediate 
 class which contributes the remaining third. Each class elects 
 one-third of the Town Council. To our British ideas this ar- 
 rangement is quite indefensible. We groan in helpless sub- 
 jection under the indirect power of wealth, but we are horrified 
 at the idea of directly recognising its ascendency. The strange 
 thing is that these oligarchic Councils are much more liberal 
 with public money than our democratic ones ; they spend 
 much more freely on schools, hospitals, parks, and public 
 recreation. In building new schools, for example, there is none 
 of that eagerness to cut down the cost to the lowest point so 
 congenial to British plutocracy. Rich people abroad seem to 
 have learnt that a prosperous and contented people makes 
 them richer and happier themselves, a lesson which in Great 
 Britain we have still to learn. Such an experiment as the 
 establishment of open-air schools for ailing children, now 
 adopted in many places in Germany and Austria, could not be 
 made here out of public funds, though private persons have
 
 Introduction 9 
 
 with voluntary funds made some attempts to copy it. It is 
 truly observed in a pamphlet called " The Abandoned Child," 
 which has lately been published by Mr. Bramwell Booth, that 
 in the application by Local Authorities of power for social 
 reform conferred on them by Parliament, " the process of 
 deliberation seems to have been admirable — for conciseness and 
 simplicity. It lay in two short questions to the clerk, and in 
 two still shorter answers : 
 
 " Will it cost us anything ? Yes. 
 
 " Are we obliged to do it ? No. 
 
 "There it ended." 
 
 Useful as the Municipal Tours have proved themselves in 
 storing the minds of Local Administrators with knowledge 
 suggestive of practical reforms in our own cities, they have 
 served a purpose which is from an international point of view 
 of even greater value. They have brought into friendly and 
 confidential intercourse the people of various countries, who 
 have a common bond in the transaction of local public affairs 
 and in the solution of the problems affecting the well-being of 
 masses of the people which arise in our modern civilisation. 
 This intercourse promotes friendship and a good understanding 
 between the reserved and shy Briton and the more sympathetic 
 and demonstrative people of other nations. The first to per- 
 ceive this advantage of Municipal Tours was the German 
 Emperor ; he appreciated it the moment the plan of Dr. Lunn 
 was laid before him. In this view he was soon followed by 
 our own peace-loving King and his present Ministers. 
 
 The times have passed when 
 
 Delirant rcgcs plcctuntur Achivi. 
 
 No monarch or minister can make war in these days, unless 
 he has the people over whom he rules at his back. When 
 Kriiger made an attack upon us in 1899 the whole people of
 
 1 o Introduction 
 
 the Transvaal Republic and the Orange Free State supported 
 his proceeding ; and when the British Government took up 
 his challenge and repelled force by force, the Ministry 
 of the day had the almost unanimous approbation of the 
 British people. There are to-day persons in both Germany 
 and Great Britain who, from some motive or other, seek 
 on every occasion to sow enmity between the two nations, and 
 even affect to contemplate with complacency the horrid idea 
 of war. Nothing is a better antidote to the poisonous designs 
 of such people than the friendship of personal regard which 
 should subsist between the leading men of two allied nations, as 
 the failure of an abortive attempt to make mischief has recently 
 shown. Rivalry between Germany and Great Britain there 
 is, and will continue to be ; but it is at present the peaceful 
 rivalry of industry and commerce, and should for ever preserve 
 that character. Most people who visit Germany for the pur- 
 pose of studying the institutions of that Empire return home 
 with minds full of foreboding as to the possibility of maintain- 
 ing British supremacy ; but it is the magnificent schools, the 
 solicitous care of the Government for the health and well-being 
 of the people, and the Technical Universities which are turning 
 out continually skilled and expert workmen that fill them with 
 alarm. Such an institution as the Technical School at Char- 
 lottenburg is a far greater menace to British supremacy than 
 a dozen Dreadnoughts. If our ascendency in industry and 
 commerce is to be hereafter taken away from us, it will be by 
 the German schools, and not by the German fleet.
 
 CHAPTER I 
 FRANKFORT-ON-THE'MAIN 
 
 Among those who started on Monday, May 20th, were a 
 number of members of the Committee who had had an oppor- 
 tunity of closely studying German municipal life on our 
 previous visits to Aix, Berlin, Cologne, and Dresden. Our 
 members came with a determination to avail themselves of 
 the opportunities which were so freely offered by the authori- 
 ties in Germany for the study of Municipal enterprises. 
 
 It had been arranged that the arduousness of our task 
 should be somewhat mitigated, as on the previous occasion 
 we began work at g.15 a.m., and our whole time was prac- 
 tically planned out from that hour until midnight. It was 
 therefore settled that, in the cities we were to visit, a certain 
 time should be allowed for rest in the middle of the day ; other- 
 wise some at least of our number would have succumbed to 
 the consequences of their own zeal and the kindness of their 
 entertainers. We started with expectations, that were more 
 than realized, of a journey rich in opportunities for careful 
 study and fruitful in useful lessons. 
 
 The Committee left London on Monday, and on arriving at 
 Flushing found the first indication of that charming hos- 
 pitality which we were to experience for the next three weeks. 
 A special train, supplied with luncheon and dining cars, was 
 awaiting us, and conveyed us direct to Frankfort, where we 
 were met at the station by the able and energetic British
 
 1 2 Frankfort'On'the^Main 
 
 Consul-General, Sir Francis Oppenheimer, and the two Vice- 
 Consuls, Mr. C. W. Schwarz and Mr. C. F. Gardner, and by 
 some of the Municipal authorities. 
 
 Although we had been travelling all night, our enthusiastic 
 Consul-General carried off Sir John Gorst and one or two others 
 to see an Exhibition of Trades and Industries which proved 
 to be of very great interest. 
 
 In the evening we were welcomed by the City at a banquet 
 which took place in the Romer or Rathaus, the historic build- 
 ing which is one of the glories of Frankfort. The visitors were 
 received in the Wahlzimmer, where the Electoral Princes of 
 Germany met to choose the head of the Holy Roman Empire, 
 and the banquet took place in the famous Kaisersaal where 
 the Imperial Coronation banquets used to be held, and which is 
 hung with portraits of the Emperors. 
 
 The president of the banquet was the Ober-biirgermeister 
 of the city. Dr. Adickes, who had at that time just been offered 
 a position in the Ministry at Berlin. In 1891 he was re-elected 
 Ober-biirgermeister at the end of his first term of office. 
 
 It should be noted that the first Magistrate of Frankfort 
 (as of other German cities) does not hold office for one year 
 only as in England, but for a term of years. He is supported 
 by a Council, half of whom are salaried officials who must have 
 made a special study of law and finance, and the other half 
 honorary workers. This plan secures to the city the services 
 of a thoroughly competent head, supported by a staff of 
 experts corresponding to our Permanent Civil Service, and 
 renders possible a continuity of policy which is sadly lacking 
 in the administration of English towns. During our journey 
 the Mayor of Birkenhead created some amusement by stating 
 that in his experience of a certain city, the same street was 
 taken up four separate times in one year, and each time by 
 a different authority, for the purposes of gas, water, drainage
 
 i^^<t^c^ 
 
 1)K. ADICKES, OnF.K-IiURCKRMKlSTKR OK FRANKFORT.
 
 y
 
 Address by the Ober^burgermeister i ^ 
 
 o 
 
 and electric light. Such a thing would have been inconceiv- 
 able in Frankfort, or any other German town. 
 
 It was with great pleasure that we received the hearty 
 greetings of Herr Adickes and his able colleagues. In address- 
 ing us at the dinner, the Ober-biirgermeister expressed the 
 pleasure with which he welcomed us in the historic Kaisersaal. 
 He found in our second visit to Germany both a proof of our 
 interest in the management of public affairs, and of the pro- 
 gress that had been made by German cities in local adminis- 
 tration. 
 
 Continuing, he pointed out that England had been the 
 teacher of the European Continent in local government as 
 well as in politics, and Europe had learned from her both 
 constitutional government and the system of trial by jury. 
 The rapid increase in the population of the towns had forced 
 on us the consideration of new social problems, and he recog- 
 nized the energy with which England had faced these problems, 
 and the happy results that had ensued. 
 
 In Germany they had the same problems to face, and they 
 also had to put their shoulders to the wheel to better the 
 conditions of life, especially for the working classes. But while 
 the problems were identical, the methods of fighting against 
 the common enemy were different. This difference was necessi- 
 tated by the varying development of institutions and the 
 different manners and customs of the people. 
 
 It seemed, therefore, that a comparative study of various 
 methods of social reconstruction might be of high value and 
 German cities offer a favourable field for this study because 
 of the differences in the constitution of each. 
 
 Such comparative studies were not only directly useful, 
 but they offered mucli greater indirect advantages. Dr. Lunn, 
 he said, was right in entitling his report of the last visit to 
 Germany, " Municipal Studies and International Friendship."
 
 14 Frankfort ^ori'thc'Main 
 
 The best method of securing friendship between nations, as 
 between individuals, was through community of work, through 
 an intimate knowledge of each other's ideals, and an ungrudg- 
 ing admiration of each other's progress combined with zealous 
 efforts to attain the common goal. 
 
 The historic hall in which they met revived the memory 
 of the Holy Roman Empire, the existence of which was con- 
 sidered by Dante and other great mediaeval thinkers to be 
 essential to the welfare of mankind, and which undoubtedly 
 in certain respects embodied the loftiest ideals of human govern- 
 ment. Mr. Bryce had devoted an admirable work to the 
 history of this strange creation, as he calls it, of ancient tra- 
 dition and mystical faith, founded on the conception of a 
 universal religious state and centring round the co-ordinate 
 powers of the Emperor and the Pope. He has shown how the 
 Empire preserved the memory of ancient order and culture, 
 how it tamed the barbarous nations of the North, and saved 
 the European peoples from narrow and jealous exclusiveness. 
 It rendered possible mutual knowledge and co-operation and 
 preserved the feeling of a brotherhood of nations. 
 
 It was inevitable that this system should pass away. But 
 the long agony of the Holy Roman Empire was inextricably 
 bound up with the history of the German nation, whose political 
 existence under its present organization dates back only for 
 some thirty odd years. The Germans are at the same time 
 a very old people and quite a new nation, and this in itself is 
 a source of difficulties and misunderstandings. 
 
 Distracted by varying schools of thought and irreconcil- 
 able schemes for social progress, the modern world may appear 
 to be waiting for some new idealistic system, possibly already 
 in the germ. This new body of ideals and beliefs may embrace 
 some portion of that which was the soul and essence of the 
 Holy Roman Empire, — its love of peace, its sense of the brother-
 
 Reply by Lord Lyvcden 15 
 
 hood of mankind, its recognition of the sacredness and su- 
 premacy of the spiritual Hfe. 
 
 Sagacious observers recognize that the commercial antago- 
 nisms of democracies are as fertile in menaces to peace as were 
 ever the dynastic interests of princes. 
 
 The Secretary of the Committee had declared it to be 
 incumbent on all who in any way could strengthen the bond of 
 international friendship to put forth their best endeavours 
 in that direction. It was in full agreement with the Committee 
 as to the imperative obligation of this duty that he gave them 
 a hearty welcome that evening. 
 
 The President of the Committee, Lord Lyveden, in his 
 reply referred to the signs that Germany " had thoroughly 
 applied in municipal life that scientific spirit which had made 
 her success in commerce and industry so great." 
 
 He was followed by Sir John Gorst and Regierungs- 
 Praesident Dr. von Meister. The statement of Sir John Gorst 
 that the aim of the visit was " the strengthening of inter- 
 national peace, which is the highest aim of civilization," was 
 received with loud cheers. 
 
 The morning was devoted to visiting the city, which im- 
 presses visitors so strongly by its air of prosperity and wealth, 
 no less than by the interesting memorials of the past in which 
 it abounds. 
 
 One of the most interesting and memorable events of the 
 morning was the reading of the able paper on Education 
 which is printed in the following pages. 
 
 The m«jmbers were particularly interested in the work of 
 the Labour Bureau, wliich Frankfort was the first town in 
 Germany to organize. The scheme was imitated at Stuttgart, 
 and lias since then been largely adopted all over Germany. 
 
 The preliminary work of organizing the Bureau began in 
 1890, but it did not become an accomplished fact till five years
 
 1 6 Frankfort'Ori'thc'Main 
 
 later. It is composed of a Committee of twelve, six of whom 
 are employers of labour and six elected by the workmen. 
 
 The rapid development of the work of the Bureau since its 
 formation is shown by the following figures : 
 
 In 1895, there were 7,947 places vacant, 14,740 applications 
 for work received, and 6,492 places were filled by the agency 
 of the Bureau. 
 
 In 1904, the vacancies were 42,471, the applications 66,340, 
 and the places filled 34,050. 
 
 The Labour Bureau of Frankfort is more largely taken 
 advantage of than any other similar institution in Germany, 
 and it is accepted as a valuable instrument for bringing the 
 employer and the employee together. 
 
 There is a Board of Arbitration for industrial disputes 
 consisting of 66 members, half of whom represent the em- 
 ployers and half the employed. The chairman is elected by 
 the City Council. The Board has no compulsory powers ; it 
 cannot compel witnesses to attend nor can it enforce its 
 awards ; but it provides a much-appreciated means of dis- 
 cussion and communication between the two parties. 
 
 The Housing of the Working Classes is another question 
 which particularly interests the members of urban local au- 
 thorities. A Building Society founded by a Frankfort Trades 
 Union has erected some blocks of houses, consisting of two- 
 and three-room dwellings, with a good laundry and playground 
 attached. The rent for three rooms, with cellar and attic, is 
 30S. a month. These tenements may be compared to the 
 London County Council flats which are let at 15s. per week, 
 but the outward appearance of them is distinctly more attrac- 
 tive. It is intended now only to build tenements consisting 
 of two rooms and a kitchen, as there is some difficulty in letting 
 the larger tenements. 
 
 Connected with these buildings is a sort of Club House,
 
 Sir Francis Oppenheimer's Speech 17 
 
 comprising the offices, a restaurant, and various rooms which 
 are used for meetings and entertainments. Members bring 
 their famihes to the restaurant in the evenings for social inter- 
 course and Hght refreshment, and perfect order prevails. 
 
 The question of housing is specially important in Frankfort, 
 as rents are exceptionally high. Thirty-two per cent, of the 
 inhabitants occupy dwellings of one room and a kitchen. 
 
 After their morning's labours the visitors were enter- 
 tained by Sir Francis Oppenheimer at a delightful lunch 
 given in the beautiful Palm Gardens. The British Consul- 
 General, in a speech as happily conceived as expressed, re- 
 ferred to the Anglo-German understanding in these words : 
 
 " Your visit to Germany two years ago and your cordial 
 reception ; the German return visit and its splendid progress ; 
 your second visit now and the even more cordial welcome which 
 you are receiving — if such be possible — are facts which all 
 must understand. Verily, where deeds and facts are so 
 eloquent there is no need for speeches." 
 
 After lunch, the Director of the Gardens took the members 
 over the greenhouses and they then paid a visit to the Goethe 
 Museum and the Hospital. 
 
 On the following morning the members drove round the 
 western extension of the town and inspected some workmen's 
 dwellings. 
 
 The Ober-biirgermeister, Dr. Adickes, who is himself the 
 author of the " Adickes Law " which deals with the systematic 
 development of the suburbs of German towns, gave a most valu- 
 able and interesting statement on this subject in the Rathaus, 
 explaining the methods which were followed in town develop- 
 ment. The English visitors, who knew by bitter experience 
 the results of the haphazard methods of extension permitted * 
 in English towns, listened with great interest to the Obcr- 
 biirgermeister's address. 
 
 2
 
 1 8 Frankfort-on^the^Main 
 
 A High School for Girls, very fully equipped, was also 
 visited. These High Schools are extensively supported out 
 of public funds, as will appear when it is stated that the cost 
 to the parent for the education of each girl is reckoned at 
 £7 los., while the cost to the city is £40 per annum. 
 
 The members also visited the magnificent College of Com- 
 mercial and Municipal Science erected by the philanthropy of 
 eminent citizens of Frankfort at a cost of £150,000. The 
 college obtains some funds from the fortune of two million 
 marks left by the Brothers Jugel to the City in memory of 
 their father, but it is otherwise supported by the Municipality. 
 
 The visit to Frankfort terminated — all too soon — on 
 Thursday, May 23rd, when the English delegates and those 
 who had not only welcomed them with the most generous 
 hospitality, but impressed on them lessons never to be for- 
 gotten, met at luncheon at the magnificent Restaurant of the 
 Frankfort Railway Station. The gathering was presided 
 over by Dr. Adickes, the Ober-biirgermeister, whose ability 
 and courtesy the Committee had learned to esteem so highly. 
 The health of the City officials was proposed by Mr. Percy 
 Alden and Mr. Chiozza Money, who dwelt on the lessons 
 that had been learned during the visit and on the friendly 
 feelings that had been called forth on both sides. 
 
 The Ober-biirgermeister in his reply advised that the Press 
 should reverse Shakespeare's dictum that men's evil manners 
 live in brass and their virtues are writ in water. He trusted 
 that when newspapers attempted to stir up international 
 strife, their words would be writ in water, but that they would 
 write on the rock words of enduring friendship.
 
 The Saalburg 19 
 
 HOMBURG 
 
 At 2 p.m. the members of the Municipal Committee left 
 for Homburg, where they were the guests of the City. 
 
 Immediately on arrival they were taken to the Saalburg 
 to inspect this ancient Roman fortress, which has recently been 
 restored by order of the Emperor. 
 
 Historians tell us that about the end of the first century 
 A.D. the Romans invaded the plains of Hesse Nassau, then 
 occupied by German tribes, and established themselves south 
 of the Taunus. The line of fortifications which they built 
 to protect their new " sphere of influence " is known as the 
 " Pfahlgraben," and extends from the Rhine to the Danube. 
 This barrier was guarded by fortresses of which the Saalburg 
 was one of the most important. 
 
 The first modern writer who refers to this building was a 
 native of Homburg, Elias Neuhof, who wrote a short account 
 of it in 1777. In his time it was still in a state of tolerable 
 repair, although it had served as a quarry of ready-cut 
 stone to the neighbouring peasants, and a good deal of the 
 material had been carried off to build the Castle and Lutheran 
 Church at Homburg in the 17th and i8th centuries. It was 
 only in 1818 that orders were given which prevented the ruin 
 from being further despoiled. In 1853 excavations were 
 begun on the site by the antiquarian F. G. Habel. Many 
 interesting coins and other relics of the Roman period have 
 been discovered. 
 
 In 1897, the Emperor William II. ordered the reconstruc- 
 tion of the central building as nearly as possible on the original 
 lines, and the work is now progressing. Every care is taken 
 to ensure the utmost possible accuracy in reconstruction. 
 Roman camps similar in character have been examined in all 
 parts of the world, and the works of Caesar, Tacitus, Vitruvius
 
 20 Frankfort'On^thc'Main — Homburg 
 
 and Vegetius have been consulted, so that the restoration will 
 possess a high historical and antiquarian value. 
 
 The southern wall and half of the eastern and western 
 walls, the Porta Decumana, the Porta Dextra and Sinistra, 
 and the Praetorium have already been rebuilt. Over the 
 outside of the Porta Decumana is an inscription which reads 
 as follows : 
 
 " Gulielmus II., Frederic! III. Filius, Guilelmi Magni Nepos, 
 Anno Regni XV., in memoriam et honorem parentum castellum 
 limitis Saalburgense restituit." 
 
 The objects found in the excavations have been stored in 
 the very interesting Saalburg Museum. Here the visitors had 
 the advantage of the guidance of Geheimer Ober Baurat Pro- 
 fessor Jacobi (under whose superintendence the Museum has 
 been arranged and who has directed the reconstruction of the 
 fortress), and also of Dr. Rudiger, President of the Homburg 
 Town Council. 
 
 Later on they inspected the Homburg waterworks, the 
 Kur Gardens, and the Kaiser Wilhelm Bad. A telegram was 
 dispatched to the Emperor from the Saalburg containing the 
 following passage : 
 
 " We rejoice to recognize that while Germany and all 
 Northern Europe, our own country included, are deeply 
 indebted to the nation which first built this fortress for advance 
 in civilization, the Continent of Europe and the whole world 
 are also profoundly indebted to your Majesty for preserving 
 Europe during the whole of your Majesty's reign from the 
 horrors of a great international war." 
 
 In the evening the Homburg Kur Direktion gave a dinner 
 in the Kurhaus, when Ober-biirgermeister Mass greeted the 
 guests in the name of the town and proposed the health of King
 
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 Message from the Kaiser 21 
 
 Edward. During dinner the gardens were illuminated and 
 a concert given by the famous Homburg Kur Kapelle. At 
 eleven o'clock the visitors returned by special train to Frankfort, 
 greatly delighted ^vith the experiences of the day. 
 
 During the stay at Frankfort, Lord Lyveden had the 
 gratification of receiving the following telegram from Prince 
 Billow : 
 
 " At the very highest command, I thank the Committee 
 for the telegram sent from Goch. His Majesty the Kaiser 
 wishes the Committee a satisfactory progress in its journey, 
 and hopes that the members will take back to their homes 
 pleasant and useful impressions." 
 
 On Friday morning, the 25th, the members went to Nau- 
 heim, in accordance with an invitation from the Kur Direktion, 
 and went over the new Baths and grounds. Geheimrat Dr. 
 Fuchs and Ober Baurat Schmick were present as representatives 
 of the ministry. They returned to Frankfort at midday, 
 proceeding thence direct to Nuremberg.
 
 CHAPTER II 
 GERMAN MUNICIPAL GOVERNMENT 
 
 Before proceeding to give details of the various institutions 
 which it was our lot to study in Germany, it may be of interest 
 to say a few words with reference to the German system of 
 Municipal Government, and to point out some of the respects 
 in which it differs from the English system. 
 
 It has been well said that the system of Municipal Govern- 
 ment in Germany has been shaped by the conviction that the 
 work of governing a town is so important and so difficult that 
 it requires the whole working time and all the powers and 
 thought of able men who have acquired special knowledge of 
 the problems of town administration by a long experience of 
 the work, and who know that if they are guilty of neglect of 
 duty or act dishonestly, they will be ruined for life by losing 
 their position, the salaries on which they live, and the con- 
 fidence of the public, without which they cannot obtain other 
 appointments. 
 
 While a considerable number of persons on the Town 
 Council are permanent officials, the majority of members are 
 elected, and it is the elected members who appoint the First 
 Biirgermeister and such other men as are needed to perform 
 the duties discharged in England by Chairmen of Committees. 
 The First Biirgermeister, or Ober-biirgermeister as he is called 
 in Prussia, has to assist him two or three Biirgermeisters and 
 other permanent officials, who are invariably men of high edu- 
 cational standing and great experience. 
 
 22
 
 Composition of a Municipal Body 23 
 
 The First Biirgermeister holds his office practically for life , 
 but he is subject to re-election for long terms of office. The 
 members of the City Councils are re-elected by sections, so that 
 the composition of a municipal body is never completely 
 changed, as it might possibly be in England in consequence of 
 a municipal election. This ensures a continuity of policy 
 which is of the greatest value in administration. 
 
 My friend Dr. Albert Shaw, editor of the American " Re- 
 view of Reviews," has rightly dwelt on the admirable work 
 done by the municipal officials of Germany and on the fact 
 that election to municipal office is regarded as a high honour. 
 This last fact would be less striking to an Englishman than to 
 an American, but still the status given by popular opinion to 
 municipal office and rank is even higher in Germany than it 
 is with us. 
 
 The permanent municipal officials in the great German 
 towns correspond pretty nearly to the chief permanent officials 
 of the great Government Departments of Whitehall. 
 
 The proportion of salaried officials on the municipal bodies 
 varies in different towns. In Berlin it is 17 out of 34 ; in 
 Dresden 13 out of 32 ; in Munich 16 out of 36 ; in Frankfort 9 
 out of 17. 
 
 The method of election is very undemocratic. The 
 electors are divided into three categories, according to their 
 wealth, and each of these categories elect one-third of the 
 members. The figures for Aachen will show how the system 
 works out in that city : 
 
 130 electors elect one-third of the council, 
 1,200 electors elect one-third, 
 8,000 electors elect one-third. 
 
 This system undoubtedly gives much greater influence to 
 property than the English system of one vote one value, and 
 it is interesting to note that notwithstanding that property
 
 24 German Municipal Government 
 
 has such a preponderating voice, municipal enterprise is so 
 much more active than in England, and municipal expenditure 
 so much greater in relation to the total wealth of the city. 
 
 It is also interesting to note the method of municipal 
 taxation which prevails over great part of the German Empire 
 — for instance, in Prussia. For the facts which follow I am 
 indebted to Mr. Robert Donald : 
 
 " The Municipality collects all the taxes for its own pur- 
 poses and for the State. State taxes consist of an Income 
 Tax and a Fortune Tax. Income tax in Prussia is levied on 
 salaries or profit of £39 los. annually and upwards. The tax 
 on incomes between £39 los. and £50 is 6 marks, or "6 per cent. 
 On incomes from £50 to £52 los., the levy is 9 marks, or 'g 
 per cent., rising progressively until 4 per cent, of the income 
 is reached at £4,375. The income tax which Cologne handed 
 over to the State amounted to £231,253 5s. 6d. 
 
 " The Prussian State also levies a Fortune Tax, which is 
 an impost on the amount of fortune or capital invested by 
 individuals in house property, land, and trade. This amounts 
 to 53 pfennige or about 6d. for every 6,000 marks. Fortunes 
 below 6,000 marks, however, are exempt ; so also are fortunes 
 up to 20,000 marks, when held by persons who are exempt 
 from income tax. This tribute in Cologne provided the State 
 with £39,466 last year. 
 
 " With regard to the city's own revenue, its chief source 
 is a supplementary income tax, which exceeded the amount 
 handed over to the Government. 
 
 " The Corporation levies a ground tax on land, whether 
 built on or not, fixed this year at 2.28 marks per 1,000 marks 
 of value of land and buildings. In case of land not built on, 
 however, three-quarters of the value is taken. The effect of 
 this taxation of vacant land is naturally to stimulate building, 
 and to act as a check on the rise of rents. An abatement of
 
 Municipal Taxation i the Principle of Betterment 25 
 
 half the value is allowed on the ground tax in the case of 
 workmen's dwelhngs let at low rentals, and on land belonging 
 to mutual building societies. Land has to bear a still further 
 tax, in the form of a transfer duty of 2 per cent, on the value 
 of the land, when changing hands through purchase or ex- 
 change. 
 
 " The capitalist classes having been tapped by the State 
 and the city for income tax, and by the State on their fortunes, 
 the Municipality draws still further from them in the shape 
 of a trade tax on every one engaged in a trade or industry. 
 This amounts to from i'35 per cent, to about 2 per cent, of 
 the proceeds of the business. Enterprises the proceeds from 
 which are less than 1,500 marks, or whose plant and working 
 capital are less than 3,000 marks, are exempt. There is a 
 special application of this tax for large stores dealing in more 
 than one class of goods, and having a yearly turnover of up-^ 
 wards of 4,000 marks. The Higher Stores Tax then comes 
 into operation, and is levied on a special scale. 
 
 " The city also intends to impose a supplementary tax on 
 the transfer of land, based on the increase of the value of the 
 land, and rising according to the amount of profit and the 
 period of possession from 10 to 25 per cent, of the said profit. 
 This proposition was passed by the City Council with one 
 dissentient vote, and has now been sanctioned by the Board 
 of Control. 
 
 " The city draws revenue from a number of other smaller 
 sources. For instance, there is a special trade tax on license- 
 holders, public-houses, beer shops where spirits are retailed. 
 The rate of this traffic tax varies from 10 to 100 marks, accord- 
 ing to the extent of the business. There is also a tax on 
 itinerary merchants and hawkers, varying from 50 marks per 
 day to 50 per week. The Municipality fixes an additional 
 beer tax beyond the Government brewing tax. It is an
 
 26 
 
 German Municipal Government 
 
 addition of 50 per cent, to the Government tax. It also levies 
 a duty of 65 pfennige per hectolitre on beer brewed outside 
 the borough — a kind of octroi duty. 
 
 " In Cologne dogs are not overlooked as a source of revenue. 
 A dog license amounts to 16 marks for each dog ; but if a 
 citizen has an additional dog it is considered a still greater 
 luxury, and he has to pay 24 marks for it. 
 
 " All amusements — theatrical performances, concerts, horse 
 and bicycle races, balls, exhibitions, etc. — have to pay a tax, 
 where tickets are issued, amounting to 10 per cent, of the 
 value of the ticket. 
 
 " House-owners have to pay drain dues for connecting the 
 house drains with the street sewers, at the rate of about 
 4 marks per metre in length of the frontage, and i mark per 
 metre where the frontage is not built on. Tenants pay 6 per 
 cent, on the rent of their houses for the removal of house 
 refuse ; but dwellings which are let at less than 360 marks 
 are exempt. 
 
 " Dues are levied for sanctioning and supervising the erec- 
 tion of new buildings, structural alteration, etc., and the Muni- 
 cipality charges 20 pfennige for supplying the citizens with 
 information as to the address of inhabitants, etc. The total 
 income which the Municipality of Cologne obtained last year 
 from these various sources, exclusive of smaller items, is as 
 follows : 
 
 " Ground and Building Tax . . 
 
 . . £136,062 
 
 Trade Tax 
 
 70,000 
 
 Higher Stores Tax 
 
 4.550 
 
 Land Transfer Tax . . 
 
 73.500 
 
 Traffic Tax and Licensed Houses 
 
 2,100 
 
 Beer Tax 
 
 16,625 
 
 Dog Tax . . . . . . 
 
 5.031
 
 Municipal Ownership of Land 27 
 
 Amusements Tax 
 
 15.312 
 
 Income Tax 
 
 271,250 
 
 Drain Dues 
 
 18,594 
 
 Household Refuse Cartage Dues 
 
 13.135 
 
 Building Dues 
 
 825 
 
 The cities of Prussia have a much larger measure of self- 
 government than those of England. They have no bills to 
 promote in Parliament and no provisional orders to obtain, 
 nor is it necessary for Local Government Board Inquiries to be 
 held in the case of schemes which they may desire to carry 
 out. The result is that the German towns escape the enormous 
 expense which municipalities in England incur through Par- 
 liamentary Bills, as well as the waste of energy involved in 
 getting these measures through Parliament in the face of 
 opposition. 
 
 The system of Committees is carried out much more tho- 
 roughly than in England. In a single town there may be 
 fifty or sixty committees, and on these committees a number 
 of members have seats who are not members of the Town 
 Council. 
 
 Municipal ownership of land results in the large betterment 
 profits going to the town instead of into the pockets of private 
 owners or speculators. It also admits of the careful planning 
 of new suburbs in towns, whether within or without the town 
 limits. 
 
 To show how immense is the difference between England 
 and Germany in respect of land owned by the municipalities, 
 I may give the following figures. 
 
 The city of Frankfort owns i6t^ square miles of land, i.e. 
 nearly half the area which it governs. Manchester, which is 
 nearly twice as large a city, owns one and a half square miles 
 of land.
 
 28 German Municipal Government 
 
 Cologne, largely owing to the energy of the grand old Ober- 
 Biirgermeister, Dr. Becker, who honoured us with a visit in 
 May 1906, owns nearly 15^ square miles, exclusive of 82 public 
 gardens covering 564 acres. Another remarkable instance 
 is the town of Breslau, which, with a population of 422,000, 
 owns nearly 20 square miles of land.
 
 CHAPTER III 
 
 THE EDUCATIONAL SYSTEM OF FRANKFORT 
 
 {Notes of a Paper read by Stadtrat Dr. Julius Ziehen during 
 the Visit of the British Municipal Society to Frankfort in May 
 1907) 
 
 The Educational Institutions of Frankfort are not subsidized 
 to any great extent by the State. For the Higher and Middle 
 Schools no subsidies are received from the State ; to the 
 Elementary Schools the State contributes about £1,000, and 
 the sum contributed for Technical Education is only £2,500. 
 There is but one school maintained by the State alone, the 
 Kaiser Friedrich Gymnasium, and for this the Municipality 
 has not only given the site but also a large contribution to 
 the cost of building. 
 
 The total yearly expenditure for all school purposes is 
 nearly £360,000. Of this £85,000 is expended on High Schools, 
 £40,000 on Middle Schools, £140,000 on Elementary Schools, 
 £12,000 on Continuation Schools, £8,000 on the Trade Schools, 
 and £9,000 on the Technical Schools. 
 
 The total expenditure for salaries in the Higher, Middle, 
 and Elementary Schools is £224,000, and in the Technical 
 Schools, £14,000. 
 
 The salaries of the Head Masters of the High Schools range 
 from £360 to £500 ; the initial salary of the " Oberlehrer " 
 is £195 and the maximum, £325, is reached after twenty- 
 one years of service. 
 
 29
 
 30 
 
 Education in Frankfort 
 
 The salary of the men teachers commences at £iio and 
 rises to ;^224. 
 
 The women teachers begin at £80 and rise to £164. 
 
 Every retiring teacher is entitled to a pension. 
 
 It may be stated that the rent of the houses occupied by 
 these teachers ranges from ;£28 to £40. 
 
 The number of teachers engaged in the Frankfort schools 
 is nearly 1,300, of whom 301 are women. 
 
 The following is the average cost per annum, in 1905, of 
 each child educated in the different classes of schools. 
 
 Gymnasium 
 
 Realgymnasium 
 
 Realschule 
 
 Girls' Higher Schools 
 
 Middle Schools . . 
 
 Elementary Schools 
 
 Continuation Schools (State-aided) 
 
 i 
 
 s. 
 
 d. 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 The Municipality expends £500 annually in assisting 
 teachers to study abroad and in arranging training courses 
 for them, especially in drawing and singing. 
 
 The sum of £1,500 is provided for Gymnastic Games. 
 
 Medical Inspection is only arranged for in the Primary 
 Schools, and the cost of this is more than £1,000 per annum. 
 
 The City of Frankfort has expended large sums of money 
 over School Buildings, and the need of new buildings for Pri- 
 mary Schools is still pressing. It would be false economy not 
 to meet this need as fully as possible. Our buildings express 
 the latest ideas in school construction, and demand consider- 
 able outlay in the first instance, but we consider this as an 
 expenditure for which we get good value.
 
 Size of Classes : Compulsory School Age 3 1 
 
 Shower-baths are provided in almost ail our Elementary 
 Schools. They are situated in the basement and are under 
 the charge of the concierge. The pupils are supposed to attend 
 the baths once a week, but this is not obligatory. 
 
 The cubic space allowed for each pupil is an important 
 factor in the hygiene of the schools, and is carefully considered 
 by our architects. 
 
 The equipment for the teaching of science involves a good 
 deal of expense. This provision must of course be made in 
 the High Schools. 
 
 The number of children taught in one class used to be very 
 high, but has gradually been reduced. In the High Schools 
 the tendency now is not to exceed a limit of 40 for the lower 
 forms and 30 for the upper classes. This has been found to 
 be the highest number with which one teacher can be expected 
 to deal efficiently. 
 
 There are two Infant Schools maintained by the Municipality 
 in addition to a number of private Kindergartens maintained 
 by different societies, but as most of these societies are sub- 
 sidized by the Municipality, it may be said that they are 
 connected with the general educational system of the city. 
 The actual number of children in Kindergartens exceeds 2,600, 
 and the number of women teachers is 51. There are about 
 30 Kindergartens in the city. 
 
 In the newest school buildings, special buildings are set 
 apart for the purposes of the Infant Schools. 
 
 The compulsory school age is from six to fourteen, and 
 during these years education is gratuitous. There are eight 
 classes in the Elementary school, and it is satisfactory to note 
 that a considerable number of pupils remain till they enter 
 the top class and so complete their whole course in the school. 
 In most of these schools the classes for boys and girls are com- 
 bined under one management, and it is considered an advan-
 
 32 Education in Frankfort 
 
 tage to have men and women teachers working together on 
 the same staff and as part of one institution. 
 
 The Head Teachers in both boys' and girls' schools are 
 men. They are expected to control about twenty classes and 
 give fourteen hours' instruction per week. The men teachers 
 are supposed to teach 28 hours a week, but these hours are 
 somewhat reduced after a certain period of service. The 
 women teach for 24 hours per week. 
 
 The Elementary school confines itself to instruction in the 
 vernacular. Instruction in cooking, laundry work and house- 
 wifery is given to the girls. 
 
 The question as to whether social distinctions should be 
 preserved in the schools is one that cannot be discussed here. 
 In Frankfort a strong party is of the opinion that the Common 
 Schools should serve for all, and that all the children should 
 pass through the " Volkschulen " instead of taking the prepara- 
 tory classes for the Higher Schools. There are, however, 
 financial reasons against this course, as the Municipality would 
 suffer a considerable loss by sacrificing the fees at present 
 paid by the pupils in preparatory classes, and if these were 
 discontinued the curriculum of the higher schools would have 
 to be considerably modified. 
 
 In cases where children of school age do not attend school 
 the authorities ascertain that they are receiving instruction 
 at least equal to the standard of the Primary Schools ; but it 
 is not common for children to be taught privately. 
 
 As compulsory education is now about a century old, the 
 co-operation of the parents is on the whole satisfactory. The 
 law as to school attendance is rigidly enforced, and those who 
 seek to evade it cannot expect to have public opinion on their 
 side. 
 
 The provision of school books for those whose parents 
 cannot afford to buy them is a matter which has occasioned
 
 Schools for Defective Children 33 
 
 some discussion, a certain party being of opinion that the 
 necessary school-books and appHances should be furnished 
 gratuitously to all the children. There are, however, so many 
 urgent claims on the Municipal funds that the balance of opinion 
 at present seems to be in favour of supplying books only to 
 those children whose parents are really unable through poverty 
 to purchase them. 
 
 The registers showdng the records of the children from the 
 time of their admission are very carefully kept. Special schools, 
 called " Hilfschulen " are established for children needing 
 special treatment. The heads of these schools must be men 
 of special qualifications, and they are obliged to give careful 
 records of the whole history of each case coming under their 
 care. No child can be transferred to a " Hilfschule " before 
 it is eight years old. There is also a special school for deaf and 
 dumb children. 
 
 The Middle School corresponds to what is known in England 
 as a Higher Grade Elementary School. The course of study 
 includes instruction in French and English, and the school 
 fee is £2 per annum. 
 
 There is nothing to prevent a child from the Elementary 
 School passing into the preparatory classes of the High Schools, 
 and the proportion of those who do so is very satisfactory. 
 
 The total number of school children in Frankfort receiving 
 secondary instruction in the High Schools was in 1905 about 
 5,000 (3,000 boys and 2,000 girls), and about 5,300 in the 
 Middle Schools (2,340 boys and 2,970 girls). 
 
 A considerable number of free places in these schools are 
 allocated to the children of necessitous parents. 
 
 The Secondary Schools may be classified according to their 
 curriculum as (i) Gymnasia, (2) Realgymnasia, and (j) Ober- 
 realschulen and Realschulen. 
 
 The Tuition Fees vary from 100 to 150 marks (;^5 to £7 los.) . 
 
 3
 
 34 Education in Frankfort 
 
 The course of studies in all the higher schools is calculated 
 for nine years, but many pupils in the Realschule leave after 
 a six years' course. 
 
 Attempts have often been made to do away with the 
 Realgymnasium, but we may say that it still supplies a felt 
 want in our German educational system. Nor do we think 
 that optional courses of Latin introduced into the Ober- 
 realschule would be a sufficient substitute for the semi-classical 
 education that is given in this " compromise " type of school. 
 English takes the place of Greek in the Realgymnasium, and 
 the time thus gained allows not only for the teaching of English, 
 but also for greater attention being given to French. 
 
 The decree issued on November 26th, 1900, the purpose 
 of which was to provide admission to University studies for 
 pupils from all classes of higher schools, must certainly be 
 regarded as a step in the right direction. Classical and modern 
 learning can now exist side by side without antagonism or 
 disturbance. 
 
 At the present time there are 765 pupils in the Gymnasia, 
 458 in the Realgymnasia, and 1,672 in the Real and Oberreal- 
 schulen. 
 
 A great defect in the old system was that a boy's guardian 
 had to decide too early in what direction he wished his 
 education to specialize. The decision need not now be made 
 till the boy is twelve or thirteen, as the curriculum in the three 
 above-mentioned types of school is identical up to that age. 
 It is very desirable that transference of pupils from one type 
 of school to another should be made as easy as possible. It 
 has been said that " the Modern side is largely recruited from 
 Classical failures." 
 
 In the Frankfort schools, French is the only language 
 learned during the first three years of school life, and six hours 
 a week are devoted to this subject. Latin is postponed till
 
 Technical Education 35 
 
 the end of the third school year, but the time thus lost is more 
 than made up by concentration on this study when once it 
 is begun. 
 
 Passing on to the provision for the education of girls, we 
 find that there are three Girls' High Schools maintained by 
 the city with a total number of pupils amounting to 1,941. 
 The full course is for nine years, but there is a continuation 
 class where the History of Art is taught in addition to other 
 subjects. Considerable difference of opinion still obtains on 
 the education of women, and the movement in favour of more 
 complete opportunities has not yet fully triumphed. At the 
 same time much has already been done in this direction. 
 
 In addition to the city schools, there are two private Girls' 
 High Schools with a number of pupils amounting to 1,193 
 in 1906. 
 
 Technical Education forms an important part of the 
 Frankfort school system. A desirable relation between 
 apprenticeship and technical training is beginning to be es- 
 tablished ; " technical instruction " and "practical training" 
 are no more referred to as antagonistic, and the attitude of 
 the manufacturers is becoming more and more liberal. The 
 self-styled " practical men " who hold systematic and scientific 
 training in derision are still with us, but their influence is 
 decreasing. It is now incumbent on employers to let their 
 young employees off for a certain period during the day to 
 receive instruction in a Technical School. 
 
 In 1879 ^^ -^rt Industry School was established by the 
 Polytechnic Society, and in 1895 the Frauensbildungsverein 
 set on foot a similar school for girls. 
 
 The Gewerbeschule, or School of Handicraft and Industrial 
 Arts, includes day classes for Drawing and Painting. The 
 number of pupils attending evening classes in this school was 
 in 1905 about one thousand. The Building Trade classes will
 
 3 6 Education in Frankfort 
 
 soon be separated from the Gewerbeschule and transferred to a 
 separate school that is being founded for the purpose. Seventy- 
 eight pupils attended these classes in the winter of 1905. 
 
 It may be added that Educational Workshops will be es- 
 tablished as soon as the Gewerbeschule is transferred to the 
 new building that is being erected to house it in the west end 
 of the city. 
 
 It is the wish of the City Council that the fees should be 
 so low as to present no obstacle to the admission of the poor 
 student. 
 
 The Evening Continuation Schools are supposed to continue 
 the work of the Common School. The number of Primary 
 School teachers who are also giving lessons in the Continuation 
 Schools amounts to 127. Eighteen teachers are also set apart 
 exclusively for the work of these schools. 
 
 The object of these schools is twofold : (i) to continue the 
 general mental development of the pupils, (2) to help them 
 to become efficient in their trades. Another great advantage 
 is that they secure the pupils from the temptations that might 
 beset their hours of unemployment. 
 
 About £250 has been set apart in the estimates in order 
 to introduce physical training, singing, and instructive lectures 
 in the Evening Continuation Schools. 
 
 We cannot deny that the Continuation Schools still labour 
 under various difficulties, though they have the support of 
 the Workmen's Guilds. The creating of a correct public opinion 
 on this question ought to be taken in hand by our press. 
 
 Pupils who are taking a sufficient number of lessons in the 
 Gewerbeschule or the Handelslehranstalt may be excused 
 from attending the Compulsory Continuation Schools. 
 
 The Handelslehranstalt (or Commercial School) was esta- 
 blished by the city of Frankfort in 1903 after careful study 
 of similar institutions in Saxony and Austria. The schooHs
 
 Commercial Schools 37 
 
 subsidized by the Chamber of Commerce. It is situated on a 
 spot which was specially chosen as being easy of access from 
 all parts of the city. 
 
 The course of study is intended for those who have com- 
 pleted their training in the Realschulen, and extends over 
 two years. 
 
 As the diploma of this school qualifies for the shortened 
 term of army service, the Handelslehranstalt ranks with the 
 other High Schools and is placed under the supervision of 
 the Provincial School Board. While the aim of the school is 
 to give special preparation for commercial life, it does not 
 neglect general studies. Foreign languages have an important 
 place in the curriculum. 
 
 In addition to the Handelsmadchenschule, there is another 
 Commercial School for girls under private management. 
 
 In concluding this brief and imperfect survey of the edu- 
 cational system of Frankfort, we would only point out that the 
 school system of any city must be the logical outcome of local 
 needs. A strictly centralised educational system that takes 
 no account of local conditions must be less efficient than one 
 which has grown up to meet requirements which were actually 
 felt. The educational system of Frankfort is still in course of 
 development, but it will appear from what has been said that 
 the Municipal government has heartily accepted the responsi- 
 bility of equipping its young citizens as fully as possible for the 
 battle of life.
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 
 METHODS OF TOWN EXTENSION 
 IN FRANKFORT 
 
 {Report of a Paper read by Herr Stadtrat Lautenschlager 
 during the visit of the British Municipal Committee to Frank- 
 fort in May 1907) 
 
 The mediaeval town of Frankfort grew out of an old Roman 
 settlement, which was extended for the first time in the middle 
 of the 12th century. Streets now occupy the position of the 
 ramparts then erected, and in one of these streets was born 
 the most distinguished citizen of Frankfort — Johann Wolfgang 
 Goethe. In the middle of the 14th century the town was 
 enlarged for the second time, and the boundaries then laid 
 down remained until the beginning of the 19th century, when 
 the walls were broken down. 
 
 Part of the fortifications were made into public gardens ; 
 the remaining ground was sold to private persons, but on 
 condition that on each site only one building should be erected, 
 while the remainder should for all time be preserved as garden 
 ground. This regulation has rendered possible the belt of 
 public and private gardens which surrounds Frankfort, and 
 which her citizens consider as one of the greatest benefits that 
 their ancestors have left them. 
 
 The removal of the walls gave the town full liberty of 
 expansion in every direction, and rendered the existence of 
 modem Frankfort possible. 
 
 A modern German town does not resemble a modem 
 
 38
 
 Frankfort — Town Extension 39 
 
 English one, as the conditions of development are entirely 
 different in the two countries. 
 
 The most striking difference is due to the fact that in 
 Germany new streets are not the creation of private enter- 
 prise. It is not the owTier of the land who makes the plans for 
 a new street according to his o^vn interest ; but the Town 
 Council plans the streets in accordance with the interests and 
 needs of the whole population. 
 
 There are no restrictions as to the width of streets or as 
 to their construction, so that the Town Council has full liberty 
 to consider the requirements of different districts. One street 
 may be 8 metres wide, another 12 or 13 metres wide, and 
 so on. Some streets are 50 metres wide, so that the width of 
 streets may be said to range from 20 to 200 feet. 
 
 The TowTi Council also prescribes the material to be used 
 in the construction of roadways and footpaths, whether wood 
 paving, asphalte, or something else. 
 
 The naming of streets is also entirely in the hands of the 
 Town Council. 
 
 The Council decides in what streets front gardens are to be 
 permitted and how large they must be, what streets are to be 
 planted with trees, and where public squares, playgrounds, 
 etc., are to be situated. 
 
 In this way a distribution of open spaces and playgrounds 
 all over the city is secured. 
 
 The Municipal authorities also decide what classes of 
 buildings are to be erected in the various localities. Some 
 districts are devoted to factories, others are declared to be 
 mixed quarters, where both dwelling houses and workshops 
 may be erected, while the remainder is set aside as a residential 
 district. 
 
 The following is the method of town planning followed 
 by the Municipality. First of all a plan is made, showing the
 
 40 Frankfort — Town Extension 
 
 general scheme of the proposed new streets. The pubHc is 
 invited to inspect the plan and objections are received and 
 considered by the body which has to sanction the plans, and 
 which is known as the Bezirksausschuss. Only after the plan 
 has been approved are buildings permitted to be erected. 
 
 It is in the interest of the landowners that the street plans 
 should be approved, and it rarely happens that sanction has 
 to be refused to a plan on account of objections brought 
 against it. 
 
 The streets are planned not merely for this year's or next 
 year's convenience but with a view to the probable requirements 
 of a long period of years. 
 
 Of course the Municipality could not exercise this power 
 of Town Planning unless they had also the power of Expro- 
 priation. This power is given by law, and there is no need to go 
 to Parliament for special powers in a case where expropriation 
 is necessary. But as a matter of fact it is very rarely used. 
 In the great majority of cases the landowners prefer to hand 
 over to the Municipality by agreement the land necessary for 
 the formation of new streets. They know quite well that the 
 value of their property will be raised by the erection of new 
 streets, and also that the power of compulsion is in the back- 
 ground. 
 
 In many cases, however, the Municipality already owns 
 the necessary land. The city, as well as the hospitals and 
 other benevolent institutions which are under its control, 
 inherits from ancient times a considerable amount of land 
 lying within the city boundaries, and increases its landed 
 property yearly by buying fresh estates. Within the last ten 
 years the city of Frankfort has expended more than £10,000,000 
 in the purchase of land. There are no hindrances in the way 
 of land purchase by the Municipality, and the city has always 
 found good use for as much landed property as it possesses.
 
 Frankfort — Town Extension 4^ 
 
 It is needed for parks and playgrounds, for docks and ware- 
 houses, for electrical works and tramway depots, for hospitals 
 and schools. 
 
 In German towns all works which have the character of a 
 monopoly are municipalized to a much greater extent than in 
 England. The only works of the kind in Frankfort which the 
 city does not own are the Gas Works. 
 
 The most important of the Gas Works belongs to an English 
 company, which is very anxious to retain it as long as possible 
 because it pays very well. 
 
 The city and the institutions under its control possesses 
 within its boundaries 12,800 acres of land, i.e. more than half 
 of the entire area of Frankfort. Outside, the Municipahty 
 owns 3,800 acres, making a total of 16,650 acres. Of this 8,500 
 acres are covered with wood which will probably be used for 
 building purposes. The largest part of the timber is produced 
 by the Municipal Forest or Stadtwald purchased from the 
 German Emperors at the end of the 14th century. 
 
 You have seen how our streets are laid out and how the 
 necessary land is acquired. But a difficulty arises from the 
 fact that most of the land outside German cities is not in the 
 hands of great owners but of small proprietors, and any of these 
 plots of ground when acquired would be unfit for building 
 purposes, being too small or too narrow for the purpose. 
 
 It is therefore necessary to bring these small plots into a 
 shape more suitable for building purposes, and this is done by 
 an institution called Umlegung, which may be rendered as 
 Redistribution. It means that all the plots of ground belonging 
 to different owners, situated in a given area, are united into 
 one plot. Out of this plot is taken the land needed for streets 
 and squares, and then the remainder is carved into suitable 
 sites and each landowner receives a site corresponding in size 
 to the area which he has handed over to the Umlegung less the
 
 42 Frankfort — Town Extension 
 
 area taken for streets. Many such redistributions have been 
 made at Frankfort. 
 
 Of course, such a redistribution could not be carried out 
 in any given district unless all the landowners of the district 
 concurred in it. If a single landowner did not consent, the 
 project could not be executed, even if it were to the undoubted 
 benefit both of the landowners and the town. Therefore efforts 
 have been made in the last few years to make the Umlegung 
 compulsory, and at last a special act for Frankfort was passed 
 by the Legislature, which is called the Adickes Law, after the 
 name of our Biirgermeister, who has done most to advocate 
 the idea of redistribution. By this Act we are entitled to make 
 any redistribution if half the landowners in a given area con- 
 sent, and if the consenting landowners possess half of the land 
 in question. In the last few weeks an amendment to the Act 
 has been passed, which empowers the city to take out 40 per 
 cent, of the area in question for streets, and to leave only 60 
 per cent, for redistribution among the landowners. 
 
 In cases of redistribution the city acquires without pay- 
 ment the land required for streets. But in cases where the 
 city has to give the land required for streets out of its own 
 property or to acquire land by purchase or expropriation, an 
 outlay of thousands of marks is necessitated. Fortunately 
 the city is enabled to recoup itself, for the law provides that the 
 landowners are obliged to repay the expense which the city 
 has had in forming streets, as soon as they begin to erect build- 
 ings on these streets. They have to pay for each site according 
 to the length of its frontage. Besides this, they have to pay 
 the cost of keeping the streets in repair during a certain number 
 of years. 
 
 In cases where public works are especially profitable to the 
 landowners of a certain district, the city has power to raise a 
 special rate from these landowners.
 
 Frankfort— Town Extension 43 
 
 In this way the Municipahty secures its share of the profits 
 which accrue to the landowners by town extension. Vacant 
 sites are rated not on the income they give, but on the capital 
 value. Moreover, the unearned increment is taxed on a sliding 
 scale, and people have to pay a certain percentage of the profit 
 they have made by selling a building or a vacant site. 
 
 Now, with reference to the provision of good and healthy 
 dwellings for the working classes, there are in Frankfort, as 
 in all large and ancient cities, a number of undesirable dwellings. 
 But the area in which these dwellings exist is constantly de- 
 creasing, because the dwellings are being transformed inta 
 offices. A great many old houses have disappeared owing to 
 the laying out of new streets. These new streets, which cost 
 many millions of marks, were made chiefly to secure better 
 lines of communication ; but at the same time they have 
 improved the housing conditions. The Building Regulations 
 also tend in this direction. 
 
 The Building Regulations of Frankfort are drawn up by 
 the City Council, not, as in many other German towns, by the 
 State Government. At a very early period regulations existed 
 which forbade the erection of unhealthy houses, and during 
 the period of industrial expansion no cellar dwellings or back- 
 to-back houses — and it may be added, no slums — could come 
 into existence. 
 
 Space does not permit of quoting the Building Regulations 
 in detail, but it may be said generally that they are designed 
 to secure a sufficiency of air space and to diminish the density 
 of population. The town is divided into three districts or 
 zones. In the inner zone, buildings with basement and four 
 upper stories may be erected ; in the middle zone, houses with 
 basements and three stories are permissible ; but in the outer 
 zone, houses may not have more than two upper stories, and 
 in small streets only one.
 
 44 Frankfort — Town Extension 
 
 In the inner zone, one-quarter of each site must be left 
 from buildings ; in the middle zone, four-tenths ; and in the 
 outer zone, five-tenths. This does not include front gardens 
 if such exist. In certain districts even eight-tenths of the 
 whole space must be left free. 
 
 It is all the more necessary to provide plenty of open 
 space because in many parts of Germany, and certainly in 
 Frankfort, people cannot afford to have houses of their own. 
 The working classes and even the middle classes are compelled 
 to live in flats, because the price of land, and in consequence 
 the rent of houses, is very high — much higher than in English 
 towns. 
 
 One cause of this is that land is very rarely held on lease 
 as is the case in England, and changes hands much more fre- 
 quently. Each new owner expects to get a higher price for 
 the land when he sells it, than he has paid for it, or at least 
 to raise the rent of the houses built on the land. 
 
 The difficulty of housing, in the case of the working classes, 
 is being combated in the following ways : 
 
 1. By the special provision of cheap artisans' dwellings. 
 
 2. By the adoption of the English system of leasehold. 
 The Corporation gives land on lease to Building Societies and 
 Municipal authorities, and in some cases to private persons, and 
 if they have not the money necessary to build houses, the 
 required sums are lent them at a very low rate of interest. 
 
 It will be seen that the conditions of the housing problem 
 in Frankfort are very different from what they are in England, 
 owing to the differences that exist in law and government 
 between English and German cities. But in both cases, the 
 same goal, i.e. the welfare of the community, is aimed at, albeit 
 by different means.
 
 CHAPTER V 
 THE STREETS AND ROADS OF FRANKFORT 
 
 Method of Laying Out and Constructing Roads 
 
 The roads of Frankfort are divided into three kinds, according 
 to their importance and the purpose for which they are in- 
 tended — viz. into main thoroughfares, promenades, and 
 ordinary roads. 
 
 The main thoroughfares, radiating chiefly from the centre 
 of the town to the old highways, are constructed with well- 
 paved surfaces, sufficiently wide to take tramway lines, and 
 are mostly lined with trees planted on the side- walks. 
 
 The more important promenades, which to some extent 
 form a ring round the town, have as a rule a promenade in 
 the middle at least 23 ft. broad, planted with rows of trees 
 and flower beds, which is bounded on either side by asphalt 
 or macadamized carriage-ways. 
 
 The roads in the residential suburban quarters of the 
 city are of less pretentious proportions, and are generally laid 
 out with gardens in front of the houses at least 16 ft. 5 in. 
 in width. 
 
 The carriage-ways arc usually constructed wide enough 
 to admit of four carriages being driven abreast (width of one 
 carriage with margin amounting to 8 ft. 2 in.). Wlien the 
 carriage-way is only wide enough to admit two carriages abreast, 
 its width is 19 ft. 8 in., to facilitate turning round. 
 
 The tram lines are generally laid in the middle of the road, 
 
 45
 
 46 
 
 The Streets and Roads of Frankfort 
 
 so that vehicles can draw up in front of the houses on either 
 side. 
 
 In recent times the causeways have chiefly been used for 
 the laying of the underground equipment, and in consequence 
 it has often been found necessary to increase their width to 
 an extent greater than the traffic alone would demand. 
 
 The dimensions are given in metres. One metre =3 ft. 3 J in. 
 
 The transverse rise of the roadway in the middle is ; 
 for macadam roads, ^ + ijV in. (in the gutter) ; 
 ,, ordinary roughly paved roads with ungrouted joints, 
 
 tV + 3 cm. 
 „ better paved roads with grouted joints, ^ + fin. 
 „ wood paving, ^V + I in. 
 ,, asphalt paving, jljy + |- in. 
 Macadam is now only used temporarily for new streets^ 
 and for this purpose it is laid at such a lower level that here- 
 after it can be used as the foundation for the permanent 
 pavement. 
 
 The macadamized country roads and the macadam roads 
 in the built-upon portions of the town are, after wearing down 
 trimmed to an even surface and contour. They then receive
 
 The Streets and Roads of Frankfort 
 
 a dressing of sand about 
 I in. thick, upon which 
 a hard basalt pavement 
 consisting of small cubes 
 3 to 3^ in. is laid — " Klein- 
 pflaster." 
 
 This " Kleinpflaster " 
 (small - cube pavement) 
 has stood well in streets 
 with small and medium 
 traffic. 
 
 Formerly the final 
 pavement of the roads 
 was very largely made 
 with ordinary carefully 
 dressed cubes of hard 
 basalt laid on a bed of 
 sand, this pavement being 
 called " Reihenpflaster " 
 (row pavement). 
 
 But as this material 
 is excessively hard and 
 sometimes brittle, and as, 
 owing to this, chips broke 
 off and the stones became 
 slippery, its use has now 
 been much reduced. 
 
 Former experiments, 
 in which the stones were 
 placed directly upon a 
 concrete foundation and 
 the interstices filled up 
 with cement grout, did
 
 4^ The Streets and Roads of Frankfort 
 
 not lead to good results, inasmuch as the cement acquired 
 such a degree of hardness that, in taking up the paving, 
 the stones broke in half in the middle instead of at the 
 joints. Moreover, the hardened cement grout used for 
 the joints renders it impossible for the horses to obtain a 
 secure footing, so that they frequently slip and fall. A 
 further difficulty, which arises from placing the paving 
 stones directly upon the hard concrete foundation, are the 
 shocks and vibrations caused by the passage of heavy vans, 
 which are transmitted to the neighbouring houses and oc- 
 casion much noise. In consequence of these unfavourable 
 results, a layer of sand i to i|- in. thick was introduced 
 between the concrete foundation and the paving stones in 
 some streets, but latterly the concrete foundation has been 
 altogether discontinued. 
 
 Of late years only a so-called first-class pavement is laid 
 in all main thoroughfares, which are paved with stone setts, 
 and this consists of a hard-rammed foundation, upon which — 
 to the exclusion of all other material — granite setts are laid. 
 The granite used comes from Bavaria, the Odenwald, and 
 latterly also from Sweden. This pavement is much better 
 than the old basalt pavement, stands the traffic well, and 
 fulfils all the conditions required of a good sett pavement. 
 
 For the grouting of the joints asphalt is now used instead 
 of cement, which, if good material is selected, does not easily 
 crack or break, and also affords a firmer foothold to the horses. 
 
 The first experiments with a noiseless pavement were 
 made with asphalt in the 'eighties, which was used either in 
 the form of mastic asphalt, rammed asphalt, or asphalt slabs. 
 The last mentioned, however, became in places so displaced 
 in a longitudinal direction, that it repeatedly became necessary 
 to substitute new slabs for the defective ones ; and before 
 ten years had elapsed they had been entirely replaced.
 
 The Streets and Roads of Frankfort 
 
 49 
 
 Of late, favourable contracts for the construction and up- 
 keep of asphalt roads have been made with several firms which 
 use either foreign or German material. 
 
 A point of special importance in maintaining asphalt 
 paving in good repair is the question how to connect the tram 
 rails with the asphalt paving, Frankfort, like all large towns, 
 has made many experiments of the most varied kind to settle 
 this point, and has for some time adopted the system of placing 
 
 The dimensions are given in metres. One metre =3 ft. 3 in. 
 
 several rows of wood blocks (Australian hardwood) on each 
 side of the rails. But even this method has not given 
 altogether satisfactory results, and the practice is now to pan 
 the whole space between the rails and also for some distance 
 outside the rails either with hard or soft wood. 
 
 The experiments made with beech wood in some of the 
 principal thoroughfares, as far back as the middle of the 'eighties, 
 gave very unsatisfactory results, and in consequence of this 
 all the wood pavement has been replaced by asphalt. 
 
 According to the experience recently gained, wood paving 
 
 4
 
 50 The Streets and Roads of Frankfort 
 
 is now only used for roads with gradients steeper than i in 60, 
 for bridges and tram lines. 
 
 It might here be mentioned that the experiment made on 
 a fairly large scale in the new slaughter-house and cattle- 
 market with Kieserling's Cement-macadam has turned out 
 satisfactorily, so that during the year 1906 its use was 
 extended in the public thoroughfares. This kind of paving 
 appears to be especially suitable for roads where importance 
 is attached to a watertight construction and absence of 
 noise. Cement-macadam, however, must be exceedingly care- 
 fully handled, and, if cracks are to be avoided, an absolutely 
 firm foundation is necessary. Particulars as to wear and 
 maintenance have not yet been collected. 
 
 During the last few years experiments have also been made 
 in various streets with slabs of small cubes (" Kleinpflaster- 
 platten "), either in connection with macadam or concrete 
 foundations. 
 
 In constructing side-walks it is necessary to distinguish 
 between temporary and permanent construction. Temporary 
 side- walks are generally made of gravel and a so-called " Hom- 
 burger Kante," formed by placing narrow paving-stones in 
 an upright position, to mark off the edge of the path from 
 the gutter. Where in such cases the traffic is great, some- 
 times a third of the width of the path is covered with a pave- 
 ment consisting of small cubes. 
 
 For the permanent pavement of causeways, cement slabs 
 and small cubes are used with granite kerbstones. 
 
 Small cube paving, in addition to its being cheap, has also 
 the advantage of drying quickly after rain, of giving the foot 
 a firm hold, and of being pleasant to walk upon. 
 
 The most popular pavement is now the ribbed cement 
 slabs, I ft. square and about 2 in. thick, which have been 
 used since the year 1887. By exercising great care in selecting
 
 The Streets and Roads of Frankfort 
 
 51 
 
 the material, they have till now proved satisfactory : they 
 offer the foot a firm hold, and possess, moreover, the advantage 
 that they can be removed separately without injury when it 
 is necessary to take up the pavement and afterwards re- 
 
 ^/: 
 
 ///. - iz» ^ . • o'V-"-u'.".: -■ 
 
 /^Vy — HO — • ' , 
 
 The dimensions are given in metres. One metre =»3 ft. 3 in. 
 
 place it. For this it is necessary to bed them thinly in mortar 
 — not cement. 
 
 On April ist, 1906, the extent of the paved areas was as 
 follows : 
 
 I, Carriage-ways : 
 
 (a) in macadam roads 
 
 
 in paved roads of the second class 
 
 in roads paved with " Kleinpflaster " 
 
 (i) in roads paved with ordinary setts 
 without foundation . . 
 
 (tf) in wood-paved roads on concrete 
 
 (/) in wood-paved roads . . 
 
 (^) in asphalt roads 
 
 Total 
 
 II. Causeways : 
 
 (a) gravel causeways 
 (6) paved causeways 
 
 Total 
 
 Area In 
 
 sq. yd. 
 
 Percentage 
 of total. 
 
 1.129,556 
 
 35*57 
 
 608.951 
 
 19-18 
 
 110,521 
 
 3-48 
 
 666,112 
 
 20-98 
 
 286,008 
 
 9-00 
 
 44,364 
 
 1-40 
 
 330,040 
 
 10-39 
 
 3.175-552 
 
 lOQ-OO 
 
 827,098 
 
 42-05 
 
 1. 140.052 
 
 57-95 
 
 1,-^67,150 
 
 lOQ-OO
 
 52 The Streets and Roads of Frankfort 
 
 The cost of repaying and maintaining the older roads is 
 defrayed yearly out of the ordinary budget. The cost of 
 making new roads is, on the other hand, defrayed out of special 
 funds — viz. out of the municipal real estate, or by the respective 
 building syndicates or private persons. 
 
 The making of a number of roads in a large building estate 
 belonging to private persons is generally done by the municipal 
 authorities under a special agreement, in which the amounts 
 to be paid to the town both for the making and the mainten- 
 ance are fixed. For building in streets which are incomplete, 
 the owners have to pay — under the local by-law of August 13th, 
 1880 — for clearing the ground, for making the street, and for 
 maintaining it for five years. These costs are calculated up 
 to the centre of the street according to the length of frontage. 
 
 The Maintenance of Roads 
 
 The maintenance of all pavements as well as all repaving 
 work, with the exception of asphalt and wood paving, is done 
 by the city itself, which employs permanently a considerable 
 number of paviors. Small repairs are paid for as day-work, 
 whilst more extensive work is paid for as piece-work. 
 
 In order not to be dependent upon the reports as to defects 
 — generally delayed — of other authorities and to meet in 
 advance complaints about the unsatisfactory condition of 
 streets and roads, foremen are employed in each of the six 
 districts into which the town is divided, who regularly visit 
 all streets within their district and report upon all defects 
 observed by them. 
 
 The maintenance of streets paved with asphalt or wood 
 is done under contract by the firms who have laid this kind 
 of pavement.
 
 CHAPTER VI 
 
 THE STREET-CLEANSING OF FRANKFORT 
 
 The duties of the cleansing department of the city are as 
 follows : 
 
 1. The cleansing and watering of all paved, asphalted and 
 macadamized streets and squares in the town, as well as the 
 removal of all ice, snow, etc. 
 
 2. The cleansing of the street gullies and the removal of 
 the sludge. 
 
 3. The cleansing and maintenance of the public urinals. 
 
 4. The removal of street sweepings and refuse. 
 
 5. The cleansing of the markets and the removal of the 
 refuse. 
 
 6. The removal of the house refuse. 
 
 The town of Frankfort is divided into six districts, each 
 two of which are placed under a chief inspector. Each district 
 has a depot, situated as centrally as possible, in which the 
 chief inspector or the sub-inspector lives, and which further 
 contains offices, workshops, and a large mess-room for the 
 workmen, fitted up with cooking and heating arrangements. 
 
 In these depots, in which the men belonging to the district 
 assemble, are kept all machines, carts and tools, and, as far as 
 possible, all the requisite horses. 
 
 The whole of the work is done in accordance with a carefully 
 prepared plan which deals not only with the regular work of 
 maintaining, cleansing, and watering the streets, but also with 
 any special work that has to be carried out in the district in 
 
 53
 
 54 The Strect-'cleansing of Frankfort 
 
 question. In connection with this plan there is a tabular 
 statement containing the names of all the streets, their areas, 
 and nature of pavement. The streets with a large amount of 
 traffic are swept six times, and all the rest three times per 
 week. 
 
 The total area of streets that had to be swept regularly 
 during the year 1905 amounted in the aggregate to 3,880,910 
 sq. yds., and may be divided up as follows : 
 
 setts asphalt wood macadam riding patts 
 
 1,585,706 sq.yds. 323,138 sq. yds. 47,322 sq. yds. 932,317 sq. yds. 27,912 sq. yds. 
 
 1,956,166 sq. yds. 960,229 sq. yds. 
 
 2,916,395 sq. yds. 
 Footways in front of city property 964,515 sq. yds. 
 
 3,880.910 sq. yds. 
 
 On account of the traffic the cleansing of the streets is done 
 during the night by eight gangs of men, each gang consisting 
 of fifteen men with one watering-cart, two sweeping-machines, 
 and two dust-carts. The gang is in the charge of a foreman, 
 who is assisted by a ganger. 
 
 The water-carts begin their work at 11.30 p.m., the sweep- 
 ing-machines at 12 midnight, and the dust-carts at 12.30 a.m. 
 
 The night-gangs start at 12 midnight, and under normal 
 conditions finish at 8 a.m., with half an hour's interval. The 
 night-work, however, is not finished until the sweeping- 
 machines have completed the work allotted to them. 
 
 The quantity of work assigned to each night-gang is the 
 area swept by two machines, working together, in eight hours, 
 which area, according to experience, is as follows : 
 
 Two One-horse Sweepers 
 about 45,000 metres x 2 «= 107,640 sq. yds. 
 
 Two Two-horse Sweepers 
 about 60,000 metres x 2 =s 143,520 sq. yds.
 
 The Street'cleansing of Frankfort 55 
 
 As 12 one-horse and 6 two-horse sweepers are usually at 
 work during the night, the area swept nightly amounts to 
 about 1,076,400 sq. yds. 
 
 The dust-carts, drawn by horses belonging to the town, 
 follow the sweeping-machines and remove the sweepings as 
 gathered. 
 
 Asphalted streets are cleansed every night except in frosty 
 weather. They are first thoroughly drenched with water, 
 afterwards washed, and finally the sludge is removed with 
 squeegees. Watering during the day has now been discon- 
 tinued, as it is useless and may cause danger to the traffic. On 
 all asphalted streets are further stationed at regular intervals 
 men whose duty it is to remove immediately any filth, espe- 
 cially horse-dung, and to sand wet places. 
 
 All asphalted streets are slightly sanded in frosty weather, 
 during damp weather in spring and autumn, as well as at the 
 commencement of rain. 
 
 The macadamized roads are cleansed by hand from two to 
 three times weekly. 
 
 The owner is, according to the city regulations, obliged to 
 cleanse the causeway in front of his house three times weekly, 
 to sand it in frosty weather, and to remove snow and ice in 
 winter. The municipal authorities, however, undertake this 
 work, where requested, for a reasonable payment with the 
 exception of sanding. 
 
 The annual cost of cleansing the streets per head of the 
 population is M. 2.20 (2s. 2^d.) ; and per sq. yard of surface 
 cleaned, M. 22.80 {£1 2s. 6d.). 
 
 The regular watering of the streets begins in April and 
 ends about the middle of October, the work being done by 
 water-carts varying in construction. 
 
 The principal thoroughfares are watered from 4 to 6 times 
 daily, and all the other streets at least twice daily.
 
 56 The Street'cleansing of Frankfort 
 
 The surface thus daily treated several times amounts to 
 2,685,020 sq. yds., and the total consumption of water to 
 440,000 cub. m. (97 million gallons), which is equal to 2 cub. m. 
 per sq. yd. (say 368 gallons per sq. yd.). 
 
 The cost of watering the streets amounts during the season 
 of 133 days to about M. 0.05 {^d.) per sq. yd. of watered area. 
 
 The whole of the repairs to the water-carts and to the other 
 machines and implements used for the cleansing of the streets 
 is done by the town in the municipal workshops. 
 
 All street gullies are cleaned at night in connection with the 
 cleansing of the streets, but the gulhes in public buildings, 
 schools, and buildings belonging to the city are cleaned by 
 day. 
 
 There are now in all about 13,198 gullies, and these are 
 cleaned by 10 separate gangs of men, each of which consists 
 of two labourers and the driver of the sludge cart. The latter 
 has a cubical capacity of 2.29 cub. yds., and is manufactured 
 by Messrs. E. Geiger of Carlsruhe. 
 
 The cost of cleaning amounts to about 4s. yd. per gully 
 per year. 
 
 At the present time there are in the town — 
 57 public urinals, of which 
 26 have water flushing arrangements and 
 21 oil flushing arrangements ; 
 The number of public water closets is 10. 
 
 Each urinal and closet is cleaned daily. 
 
 For removal of the snow and ice the six districts of the 
 town are each divided into twelve sub-districts with a staff of 
 one foreman and 15 men to each, and as soon as the snow 
 begins to fall the first work is the cleaning of the street-cross- 
 ings. After this the main thoroughfares and the streets with 
 tram lines are taken in hand, and for this purpose all the snow- 
 ploughs, scrapers, and sweeping-machines are employed. The
 
 The Strect'cleansing of Frankfort 57 
 
 snow having been removed into the channels is then shovelled 
 into heaps and then carted to the river Main or to the 20 snow- 
 inlets on the main intercepting sewers. 
 
 As the number of men permanently employed is too small 
 to cope with the snow-removal, it is customary to engage 
 additional hands, their numbers varying according to requir- 
 ments ; sometimes several hundreds have been employed. 
 
 The municipal depot and stables form the central offices 
 for the supply of all the horses required for municipal purposes, 
 the sole exception being those required by the Fire Brigade. 
 From this office the horses are supplied for the following pur- 
 poses, among others : the cleansing of the streets ; the removal 
 of house, market, and other refuse ; the supply of all building 
 materials for the various departments of the Corporation ; the 
 supply of coal, coke, and firewood for all the municipal offices, 
 schools, hospitals, and workhouses ; the carting of timber from 
 the forest belonging to the town ; the carting of the military 
 stores to the manoeuvre ground and to the rifle ranges, etc. 
 
 For all these purposes the number of the horses belonging 
 to the city is at times insufficient, especially during the building 
 and street-watering season, and to meet such a contingency 
 the municipal authorities have entered into contracts with 
 private cartage contractors to supply as many horses — fre- 
 quently up to 400 — as may be required. 
 
 The house refuse is removed three times a week in specially 
 constructed covered dust-carts which collect it between 10 p.m. 
 and 7 a.m., the whole town being divided into two districts 
 for this purpose. 
 
 For its removal, the house refuse consisting of dust, ashes, 
 and kitchen refuse must be placed in bins of a prescribed size 
 and put in front of the houses at 10 p.m., otherwise it will not 
 be collected. 
 
 The town also undertakes on request tlie removal by day
 
 58 The Street'clcansing of Frankfort 
 
 of factory and other refuse, foi which the following charge 
 is made : 
 
 For the removal of 1*3 cub. yds., is. lo^d., with a minimum 
 payment of is. 
 
 The house refuse is collected and removed by the Ad- 
 ministration either to tips outside the town or direct to 
 fields, but owing to increasing difficulties with this mode of 
 disposal it has been decided to erect a refuse destructor, 
 which is now in progress. 
 
 The total quantity of house refuse amounted in the year 
 1905 to about 115,106 cub. yds. from a population of 335,000 
 inhabitants, the weight of one cubic metre of refuse being in 
 round numbers 600 kg. (1,323 lb.) ; and the cost of collecting 
 and removing this quantity was 168,000 M. (£8,285), or about 
 6id. per head. 
 
 The carts for the removal of the house refuse have been 
 designed by the City Engineer's department. 
 
 The emptying of the ash-bins (with a capacity of i'o6 cub. 
 ft.) into the dust-carts takes place through small openings in 
 the side of the cart and creates but little dust, as the open- 
 ings are closed by shutters. These shutters open when the 
 full ash-bins press against them, and close again automatically 
 on the bin being withdrawn. 
 
 Besides these small openings the cart has also larger ones 
 in its sides, the shutters of which can be fixed open, so that 
 the refuse can be shovelled into the cart when necessary. 
 Large objects can be placed into the cart through the upper 
 door at the back. 
 
 For emptying, the cart can be tipped to such an angle that 
 its whole contents are removed, and in this position its bottom 
 is still sufficiently high above ground. The back can be opened 
 to its full extent. 
 
 The cart is further so constructed that its body can be
 
 The Street'cleansing of Frankfort 59 
 
 lifted by a crane from its frame, which is necessary for removal 
 by ship or railway or when the contents of the cart have to 
 be placed into a receptacle at a higher level, as is the case 
 in refuse-burning. 
 
 Finally it is possible to push the body of the cart on to 
 specially constructed tramway carriages, on which it can be 
 taken, for instance, to the destructor. This can be done at 
 any point of the tramway system. 
 
 The capacity of the cart is from ^h to 5|- cub. yds., and^it 
 can be driven and served by one man. 
 
 The two above-mentioned departments (street-cleansing 
 department and central depot and stables) now employ 719 
 persons. 
 
 The whole of the inspectors, foremen, gangers, and street 
 watchers wear uniforms, the others only service caps. 
 
 The town has now 220 horses and 644 carts of all descrip- 
 tions.
 
 CHAPTER VII 
 THE SEWERAGE OF FRANKFORT 
 
 Although it became apparent in the year 1854 that the 
 systematic sewerage of the city was an absolute necessity, 
 the work was not commenced till the year 1867, the Chief 
 Engineer appointed being Mr. W. Lindley, who continued 
 to direct it until 1878, when his son Mr. W. H. Lindley suc- 
 ceeded him. The latter retained the office of City Engineer 
 until 1896, and during his period of office completed the main 
 sewerage of the city in a manner that is worthy of all praise. 
 
 The sewerage has been carried out on what is known as 
 the " Combined System," the sewers receiving the waste 
 water from the houses and factories (including the excreta), 
 the rain water, and in some cases a portion of the subsoil water ; 
 and the sewage before its final discharge into the main is 
 treated in settling tanks. For a part of the new town, however 
 — Niddaniederung (Nidda low-levels) — it is proposed to carry 
 out the separate system. 
 
 Owing to the configuration of the surface of the ground 
 the main intercepting sewers have been laid parallel to the 
 river Main ; they intercept the sewage from their respective 
 drainage areas, and the upper ones further serve as flushing- 
 tanks for the lower ones. 
 
 The whole drainage area on both banks of the river has 
 been divided into a high- and a low-level zone, the former 
 comprising all that area which even in times of the highest 
 flood can be drained by gravitation into the Main. 
 
 60
 
 The Sewerage of Frankfort 
 
 6i 
 
 All the other parts of the town are comprised in the low- 
 level zone, which can only be drained by gravitation into the 
 Main when the river flows at its normal level, and the sewage 
 from which must be pumped when this level is exceeded. 
 For this purpose four centrifugal pumps, each of a capacity 
 of 400 s. 1. {88 gallons per second), are employed, which are 
 erected at the Sewage Disposal Works at Niederrad below 
 the town. 
 
 A small area in the old town, comprising about 4J ha (11 
 acres), is at such a low level that its sewage must be pumped 
 at all times. Its pumping station is situated in the Alte 
 Mainzergasse, and the arrangement provided for is such that 
 
 Pumping Station of the Lowermost System. 
 
 the sewage can either be lifted into the main intercepting 
 sewer of the low-level system or direct into the Main in times 
 of heavy storms. This pumping station is further used for 
 lowering the level of the subsoil water in the old town. 
 
 In such times when the river is in flood all connections 
 between the high-level and low-level zones are closed by pen- 
 stocks, and the sewage from the high-level zone goes then 
 direct into the Main through the opened storm outlets, whilst 
 the sewage from the low-level zone is lifted into the river by 
 the centrifugal pumps at the Sewage Disposal Works. 
 
 For relieving the sewers in time of heavy rain, storm over- 
 flows have been arranged in various parts of the town.
 
 62 The Sewerage of Frankfort 
 
 The depth of the sewers below the street surface averages 
 from 14 ft. 9 in. to 16 ft. 5 in. 
 
 The gradients of the sewers vary with the locality. In 
 the upper system the steepest gradients (i : 40 and i : 100) occur 
 on the branch sewers, and the intercepting sewers have in- 
 clinations varying between i : 200 and i : 800. In the lower 
 system the gradients are naturally flatter, the branch sewers 
 having falls of from i : 300 to i : 1000, and those of the inter- 
 cepting sewers vary between i : 1500 and i : 2500, going down 
 occasionally to i : 2700 and even to i : 3000. The general ex 
 perience with these inclinations has proved that they are 
 sufficient to prevent the accumulation of suspended matters 
 in the sewers. 
 
 The quantity of sewage is smaller than the quantity of 
 water supplied, as a portion of the latter is lost by evaporation 
 and percolation, this loss amounting on an average of the 
 whole year to about 15 per cent. As the water supply per 
 head and day amounts on an average to from 37^ to 40 
 gallons, the quantity of sewage is taken at 33 gallons, and 
 it is assumed that half of this amount is discharged in eight 
 hours. 
 
 The density of population in the various parts of the town 
 is as follows : 
 
 In the older portions of the inner town from 200 to 300 
 
 per acre ; 
 In the newer portions of the inner town from 100 to 200 
 
 per acre ; 
 In the suburban portions from 40 to 120 per acre. 
 
 For the laying out of new districts a density of from 80 to 
 140 per acre is assumed, the amount varying according to 
 the locality and the requirements of the by-laws. 
 
 The quantity of sewage from a population of 100 amounts 
 to -057 gallons per second, so that with a density of 120 per
 
 The Sewerage of Frankfort ^o 
 
 acre the dry-weather flow from this area is -oj gallons per 
 second and per acre. 
 
 In calculating the size of the sewers a provision for rainfall 
 of i6 gallons per second and per acre, or about 2^ in. of 
 rain per hour, is made, of which amount it is assumed that 
 from ^ to ^ is discharged by the sewers, the former value 
 being taken only in the case of the flat suburban portions 
 with a small population. 
 
 The greater part of the sewers are accessible brick sewers, 
 
 Kll^ 
 
 r^JM _^^ H 1.00-1 KI-mH 
 
 Nofmal Brick-Sectioos I - VI 
 
 Sections la and lb. 
 
 The dimensions are given in metres. One metre — 3 ft. 3 J in. 
 
 and the section generally used is the heightened egg-shape, 
 which is divided into six classes, the largest being class I. with 
 a width of 3 ft. 9 in. and a height of 6 ft. 7 in., and the smallest 
 class, VI., with a width of i ft. 11 in. and a height of 3 ft. 7 in. 
 
 The larger intercepting sewers have a very broad egg-shape 
 called the bell section, and are provided with a channel for 
 the ordinary dry-weather flow. 
 
 For branch sewers on steeper gradients than i : 100, pipes 
 of 16 in. and 12 in. diameter are used, and exceptionally even 
 pipes of 9 in. diameter. 
 
 Pipes of a larger diameter than 16 in. are not used, as the 
 saving over the smallest class of brick sewers at the great
 
 ^4 The Sewerage of Frankfort 
 
 depth at which they are generally laid is so trifling, that it 
 is of small amount compared with the accessibihty of the 
 latter. Owing to the large number of narrow streets, which 
 necessitated the construction of the sewers in tunnel, it was 
 absolutely necessary to lay brick sewers, hence the smallest 
 size brick sewer was so extensively employed that its length 
 is more than 50 per cent, of the total length of sewers. 
 
 All storm outlets have a circular or bell section. 
 
 Wherever two or three sewers join, special chambers — bell- 
 
 Solmsstrasse Sewer. 
 
 mouth junctions — have been constructed, in which the invert 
 of the branch sewer is carried at the water level of the ordinary 
 dry-weather flow in the main sewer. Flushing branches are 
 taken off at right angles. 
 
 For flushing the sewers the sewage is generally used, except 
 at the upper ends of the system, where the water is taken 
 from the mains. There are, however, three additional special 
 flushing-chambers connected with the sewers. 
 
 The sewers are flushed regularly in terraces, as it were, 
 commencing at the upper ends and terminating at the lower, 
 the sewage being held up by flushing-gates, and the flush, 
 after the latter have been opened, directed by penstocks to
 
 The Sewerage of Frankfort 65 
 
 such parts of the system in which it is required. This process 
 is repeated until a certain length has been completely flushed 
 from its highest to its lowest point. Those portions of the 
 sewer in which the sewage is held up are flushed by the rush 
 of the sewage the moment it is liberated. 
 
 To make this method of flushing effective in all parts of 
 the system, it was necessary to avoid all dead ends or highest 
 
 SchniU AB 
 
 Junction of Three Sewers. 
 The dimensions are given in metres. One metre = 3 f t. 3 J^ in. 
 
 points from which the sewers would fall in both directions, 
 and experience has shown that it is possible in this way to 
 keep the sewers (except the flat main out-falls) free from deposit 
 at a comparatively low cost. 
 
 As already mentioned above, the flushing-gates and pen- 
 stocks have been so arranged that the sewage of the upper 
 portions of the system can be directed to any place in the 
 lower.
 
 66 
 
 The Sewerage of Frankfort 
 
 For pipe sewers, flaps or discs are in use instead of flushing 
 gates, and those put down lately (Geiger's patent) can be 
 operated from the street. 
 
 Schnitt AB 
 
 Schnltl C D 
 
 Side Entrance with 
 Flushing-gate. 
 
 Branding-oflf at Right 
 Angle and Penstock. 
 
 The sewers are ventilated by open covers at street level 
 which are from 55 yds. to no yds. apart, and by the soil- 
 pipes of the houses. In addition to this, a few of the watch- 
 towers of the old fortifications situated at the highest points
 
 The Sewerage of Frankfort 
 
 67 
 
 have been connected with the sewers, which assist in their 
 ventilation, especially in winter. 
 
 Eiil I 6- 
 
 Ventilating Tower. 
 
 Ventilating Tower. 
 
 At distances of from no yds. to 220 yds. in the main 
 sewers and from 88 yds. to 165 yds. in the branch sewers
 
 68 
 
 The Sewerage of Frankfort 
 
 side entrances have been made, which are entered from the 
 causeways and which are, when open, covered with a safety 
 grating. Side entrances have also been fixed in connection 
 with the flushing-gates. 
 
 On pipe sewers there is generally a lamphole 9 in. wide 
 between two manholes. 
 
 In order to carry the sewage from the right bank across 
 the river to the Sewag6 Disposal Works on the left, an inverted 
 
 SchnlUAB 
 
 T • ' "r tnwCA^ 
 
 Drainu|f« of Train 
 
 syphon was laid, which consists of two wrought-iron pipes 
 each 2 ft. 7 in. in diameter and ^ in. thick. 
 
 For carrying off the rain water from the streets only, Geiger 
 patent gullies are used. 
 
 In connection with the sewers there are also twenty snow 
 inlets, which are situated in such places where there is sufficient 
 room in the streets, and where the main sewers carry a large 
 quantity of sewage. 
 
 The grooves of the tramway rails are at all low points 
 connected with the street gullies, and the same is done with 
 the point boxes.
 
 The Sewerage of Frankfort 
 
 69 
 
 The sewers are generally laid in open trenches with close 
 horizontal timbering and struts. In treacherous ground 
 runners or sheet piling is used, the latter generally consisting 
 of corrugated iron plates, which on completion are withdrawn. 
 All pipes are laid on a bed of sand 4 in. thick, and the joints 
 are run exclusively with asphalt. 
 
 All sewers are laid true to line and level, and to ensure this 
 the greatest care is employed. 
 
 Tunnelling. 
 
 As previously mentioned, sewers are frequently laid in 
 tunnel, especially at street crossings with heavy traffic and 
 in narrow streets. 
 
 The total length of all sewers amounted on April ist, 1907, 
 to about 186 miles. 
 
 The total expenditure on the sewers, exclusive of street 
 gullies and Sewage Disposal Works, was on March 31st, 1906, 
 £894,220. 
 
 It may not be without interest to give here some further 
 particulars of the flushing of the sewers.
 
 70 The Sewerage of Frankfort 
 
 The total sewerage system of the town is divided into a 
 number of flushing districts, each of which is flushed in the 
 same order every week and on the same day, so that each 
 individual length of sewer is flushed once a week. 
 
 For the flushing of the sewers the staff of sewermen is 
 divided up into small gangs, with a separate area to each. 
 These gangs, commencing at the lower ends of the sewers and 
 working upwards, close in the morning all the flushing ar- 
 rangements, and open them again in the same upward order 
 in the afternoon, the branch sewers being flushed first, and 
 afterwards the main sewers. 
 
 In this work are now employed the following men : 
 2 foremen, 
 2 gangers, 
 20 flushers, 
 
 4 cleaners, specially attending to all ventilating ar- 
 rangements, 
 
 1 fitter, and 
 
 2 bricklayers. 
 
 The working expenses in connection with the flushing of 
 the sewers in the official year April ist, 1905, to March 31st, 
 1906, were as follows : 
 
 I s. d. 
 
 Wages of men . . . . . . . . 1,333 o 
 
 Maintenance of sewers . . , . . . 490 o 
 
 Cleansing of sewers and ventilating 
 
 arrangements . . . . . . 343 
 
 Repairs to iron work . . , . . . 120 o 
 
 Stores and materials . . . . . . 144 o 
 
 Depot . . . . . . . . . . 14 
 
 Total . . £2,444 o
 
 The Sewerage of Frankfort 71 
 
 This amount is equal to 2*07 pence per yard of sewer. 
 
 According to the by-law of February loth, 1888, every 
 house situated in a street where a public sewer or a sewer 
 connected with the public sewers exists, or in which it is pro- 
 posed to make one, must be connected with the sewers. The 
 manner in which this connection is to be made is governed 
 by the regulations laid down in the years 1873 and 1875 ; 
 but as these (dating from the commencement of sewerage 
 operations) are somewhat antiquated, amongst others in refer- 
 ence to the disconnecting trap, it is proposed to issue shortly 
 new regulations. 
 
 The settling-tanks of Frankfort-on-Main have been in use 
 since 1887, and are now worked as depositing-tanks pure and 
 simple, without any chemicals. 
 
 In conclusion, it is very satisfactory to be able to point 
 out that the systematic sewerage of the city has here, as in 
 other towns, resulted in a considerable sanitary improvement. 
 This can be proved by statistics.
 
 CHAPTER VIII 
 NUREMBERG 
 
 It was in the brightest of May weather that the EngUsh 
 Municipal delegates visited the ancient and famous city of 
 Nuremberg. They arrived at 6.43 p.m. and were received by 
 a deputation from the Municipality, who conducted them to the 
 Grand Hotel, where they were to stay. The English Vice- 
 Consul Herr Ehrenbacher, to whose courtesy and kindness the 
 Committee were greatly indebted, was also at the station 
 to meet them. 
 
 At eight o'clock a reception was given in the hall of the 
 Town Park Restaurant, which was filled to its utmost capacity. 
 
 The First Biirgermeister, Geheimer Hofrath Dr. von Schuh, 
 gave the visitors a cordial welcome. He said : 
 
 " I consider myself fortunate and highly honoured in being 
 able to greet you in our ancient and venerable city, the home 
 of work and commerce, of art and song. Englishmen have 
 at all times taken a warm interest in the special character of 
 our town, and have shown a sympathetic understanding of 
 its attractions which witness to a glorious past. Every year 
 we have the pleasure of seeing numerous visitors from England 
 wandering through our streets, which are so rich in memories 
 of the Middle Ages. To-day we have the honour to welcome 
 a large gathering of gentlemen who occupy a prominent place 
 in public life and in the administration of English towns. I 
 sincerely hope that you will find some things among us that 
 will satisfy and please you and that you will pass in our midst 
 
 72
 
 UR. VON SCHUH, FIRST BURGERMEISTER OK NUREMHKRr.,
 
 ^oNisr^ 
 
 ,£.NC£7^;;>^o>
 
 Reception by the Municipality 73 
 
 some agreeable and pleasant hours. And so I bid you welcome 
 to the city of Nuremberg." 
 
 The English Vice-Consul followed in the same strain and 
 made a graceful reference to Sir John Gorst, who was that 
 day celebrating his seventy-second birthday. 
 
 Sir John Gorst in acknowledging this compliment said 
 that the first duty of communities was to make the people 
 under their care happy, and the second to exert their influence 
 in the direction of international peace and goodwill. He 
 would always remember his seventy-second birthday as the 
 day on which Nuremberg had recognized that a really good 
 understanding existed between Germany and England. 
 
 The Mayor of Barrow, Councillor Siegmund Wertheimer, 
 and Lord Lyveden also spoke. The evening was then devoted 
 to social intercourse and to the enjoyment of the music ren- 
 dered by the Philharmonic orchestra and the admirable Male 
 Voice Choir. Dr. Fest delighted the audience with his solo 
 singing, and Vice-Consul Ehrenbacher's son played a violin 
 capriccio of Mendelssohn's in masterly fashion. 
 
 Those who on the following morning drove through the 
 beautiful old city must have been reminded again and again 
 of Longfellow's lines : 
 
 Everywhere I see about me rise the wondrous world of Art. 
 Fountains wrought with richest sculpture standing in the common 
 
 mart, 
 In the Church of sainted Sebald sleeps enshrined his holy dust. 
 And in bronze the Twelve Apostles guard from age to age their trust. 
 In the Church of sainted Lawrence stands a pyx of sculpture rare, 
 Like a foamy sheaf of fountains rising through the painted air ; 
 Here when Art was still Religion, with a simple reverent heart, 
 Lived and laboured Albrecht Durer, the Evangelist of Art. 
 Emigravit is the inscription on the tombstone where he lies, 
 Dead he is not, but departed, for the artist never dies. 
 Through these streets so broad and stately, these obscure and dismal 
 
 lanes,
 
 74 Nuremberg 
 
 Walked of yore the Master Singers chanting rude poetic strains ; 
 As the weaver plied the shuttle wove he too the mystic rhyme. 
 And the smith his iron measures hammered to the anvil's chime. . . . 
 Not thy Councils, not thy Kaisers win for thee the world's regard. 
 But thy painter, Albrecht Durer, and Hans Sachs, thy cobbler bard. 
 
 The new Municipal Theatre, built in 1905 by Baurat 
 Seeling, was one of the first objects of attention. 
 
 This theatre is designed to seat 1,421 persons. It is planned 
 to give the greatest possible amount of comfort and safety 
 to the audience, and possesses the latest improvements in heat- 
 ing, lighting, and warming apparatus. The scene-shifting 
 machinery excited a good deal of interest. To show the ad- 
 vantages of the system, changes in the scenery were made with 
 great swiftness, and the visitors were much impressed by the 
 rapidity with which an effect of sunshine on the stage was 
 changed to a thunderstorm, and that again to a moonlight 
 background, and by the smoothness with which the machinery 
 worked. The ventilating arrangements are not less admirable. 
 100,000 cubic metres of fresh air can be passed into the audi- 
 torium every hour, being about 70 cubic metres for each auditor. 
 The vitiated air is drawn off through a channel which serves 
 both for stage and auditorium. 
 
 There are 5,000 electric lights in the building, 170 of which 
 are emergency lights attached to a separate battery. There 
 is also an elaborate water supply in case of fire, with hydrants 
 all over the building. 
 
 Imitation of every kind has been sedulously avoided in 
 the choice of materials. The building is chiefly of red Nurem- 
 berg standstone, the plinths are in limestone from Lower Fran- 
 conia. In the exterior of the building, the architect has 
 imitated to some extent the Renaissance wings of the Rat- 
 haus, built by Jakob Wolff ; but in the interior he has followed 
 modern forms almost exclusively. The subjects of the decora-
 
 A Municipal Theatre 75 
 
 tion are taken from German myth, and particularly from 
 Wagner's music dramas. The curtain, designed by the Vien- 
 nese artist Rothaug, represents Phantasy in the golden forest, 
 weaving the mingled dark and bright threads of destiny for 
 the poet. 
 
 The prices appear very reasonable in comparison with those 
 charged at London theatres. The highest is four marks and 
 the lowest half a mark. A good seat may be had for anything 
 from half a crown to a shilling. This proves that the German 
 Theatre is a truly popular institution. 
 
 The Gas Works were next minutely inspected, and the 
 excellence of their construction drew forth high encomiums 
 from those Englishmen who had the necessary knowledge to 
 appreciate it. 
 
 The new Gas Works were built in the years 1900-04, and 
 cover an area of 176,350 square metres. The coke gas works 
 are designed for an annual output of 60,000,000 cubic metres ; 
 the extension undertaken in 1904 is designed for an output of 
 20,000,000 metres. 
 
 The Water Gas factory, which has been working since 
 December 30th, 1901, and which serves as an auxiliary source 
 of supply, besides providing the power for the electric lighting 
 and machinery, is arranged for a yearly output of 5,000,000 
 cubic metres. It has three generators on the Delwick-Fleischer 
 system. 
 
 The Gas Reservoir has a capacity of 44,000 cubic metres, 
 and pending the construction of further reservoirs, the reser- 
 voir of the old gas works is still in use ; it holds 19,800 cubic 
 metres. 
 
 The third building to be visited was the excellent new 
 Hospital, opened in 1897. It cost about four million marks, 
 and accommodates nearly a thousand patients. 
 
 The members then drove to the Rathaus, with its fine
 
 76 Nuremberg 
 
 17th century fagade. The great hall on the first floor, where 
 the banquet took place, belongs to the older portion of the 
 building and dates from 1332. Here took place the historic 
 banquet which celebrated the close of the Thirty Years' War. 
 The walls are adorned with paintings from Albrecht Durer's 
 designs. 
 
 Biirgermeister Dr. von Schuh proposed the health of the 
 visitors, which was responded to by Lord Lyveden, who pointed 
 out that this was the second time for 107 years that a banquet 
 had been given within those historic walls. Alderman Winfrey, 
 M.P., emphasized the kindly feelings which prevailed in 
 England towards Germany. The Mayor of Birkenhead com- 
 mented on the happy union between the old spirit and the 
 new which was found in Nuremberg, and on the importance 
 which was attached to developing artistic taste and faculty. 
 In England, they had the greatest difficulty in introducing the 
 smallest artistic decoration into the schools, and it was a de- 
 lightful surprise to visit the beautiful schoolhouses of Nurem- 
 berg, which had not sacrificed to art any of their utility. Nu- 
 remberg, fifty years ago, had only 60,000 inhabitants, and 
 was now a progressive commercial centre with a population of 
 over 300,000. This testified to a wonderful vitality in the 
 city, and also to the unremitting efforts of the Chief Magistrate 
 extending over a long period of years. In England, Mayors 
 only held office for one year, and therefore could not achieve 
 such results as Dr. von Schuh had accomplished. The speaker 
 ended by calling for three cheers for the First Biirgermeister, 
 which were cordially given. 
 
 Professor Dr. Glauning, member of the Municipal School 
 Board, dwelt gracefully on the indebtedness of the German 
 nation to England, pointing out that in their Municipal Theatre 
 they performed the works of Shakespeare, that the arrange- 
 ments of the gas works visited that day were based to no small
 
 The Traffic Museum 71 
 
 extent on the experiments and discoveries of Englishmen, 
 and that the Municipal Hospital reminded them of the great 
 achievement of Lord Lister, who gave antiseptic surgery 
 to the world. " Our culture of to-day (he concluded) has 
 grown up in course of time through mutual giving and taking. 
 Let us, through the ceaseless exchange of ideas in all depart- 
 ments of human endeavour, build up the future in united 
 work and sincere friendship." 
 
 After the banquet, the Committee drove to the Traffic 
 Museum, where Ober Regierungsrat Bottinger did the honours, 
 supported by various officials of the Traffic Institutions. 
 Unfortunately, there was not time to do justice to this 
 unique collection, which includes a vast collection of specimens 
 of all kinds of handicraft and manufactured goods, as well as 
 articles in the half worked-up state, and raw materials. There 
 is also a large library dealing with commerce and manufac- 
 turing processes, an admirable chemical laboratory, and tech- 
 nical laboratories of various kinds. 
 
 The members left for Munich at 6 p.m., much impressed 
 and delighted with all that they had seen, and greatly appre- 
 ciating the cordial hospitality which had been afforded them 
 as well as the ready zeal with which all possible means of 
 information had been placed at their disposal.
 
 CHAPTER IX 
 THE RECEPTION AT MUNICH 
 
 Little did the Committee dream of all that was to await them 
 in the beautiful capital of Bavaria. They were received at 
 the station by the British Minister, Mr. Cartwright, the British 
 Consul, Mr. Buchmann, and, as representatives of the city. Dr. 
 von Borscht, the First Biirgermeister, and the Rechtsrate 
 Dr. Kuhles and Dr. Korleuger, from the Municipal College, 
 Principal Schwarz and Kommerzienrat Pschorr. There were 
 also present the President of the Railway Administration at 
 Munich, Herr Hauck, and the Professor of English Philology 
 at the University, Dr. Sieper, who introduced the Reception 
 Committee to the guests. There was no official reception. 
 A large crowd was waiting on the platform and welcomed the 
 guests with cheers as they drove away to the Bayerischerhof, 
 where rooms had been reserved for them. 
 
 Next morning the English flag was seen floating over the 
 Rathaus, in friendly alliance with the banner of the city and 
 the Bavarian standard. The morning hours were devoted 
 by most of the visitors to the churches. Some attended the 
 English Church service and others went to churches celebrated 
 for the beauty of their music and ceremonial, such as the 
 Frauenkirche, the Theatinkirche and the Matthauskirche. 
 
 After lunch in the Bayerischerhof, carriages were in attend- 
 ance to drive the visitors to the various Museums which are 
 the glory of Munich — the Old and New Pinakothek, the German 
 
 78
 
 2)' ^, 4^^f^ 
 
 UK, VON BOKSCUT, KIRST liURUEKMUlSTER OF MUNICH.
 
 (x^. 
 
 ON
 
 Visit to Museums 79 
 
 Museum, the National Museum, and the Lenbach Museum. A 
 detailed examination of these splendid collections was of 
 course impossible in the time, but the officials of the Museums 
 were most kind and attentive. At the German Museum, Baurat 
 Dr. von Muller was present to receive the visitors. 
 
 Banquet in the Rathaus 
 
 The ancient hall of the Rathaus has witnessed many a 
 brilliant spectacle, but probably never one more brilliant than 
 at the banquet given by the City of Munich to the Municipal 
 delegates from England. The banners of the guilds and crafts 
 looked down from the walls upon a wealth of green leaves and 
 garlands. May, in all its profusion of beauty, seemed to have 
 entered the venerable building, and the effect was a splendid 
 testimony to the genius and resource of the artists of Munich 
 who were responsible for the decorations. 
 
 For the sake of convenience the guests were driven up to 
 the entrance to the civic offices, the tasteful vestibule of which 
 was decorated with laurel. At the upper end of the stairs, 
 the cosy bow window was filled with flowers arranged in the 
 English style. The Council Meeting Room was adorned with 
 lofty palms and garlands of pine twigs and laurel. On the 
 table inside the very ancient wrought-iron grating, there were 
 daintily coloured everlasting begonias and dark green ferns 
 with a delicate fern as centre piece. The corner of the next 
 room was decorated with crimson azaleas and geraniums, 
 palms and ferns, and the niche opposite with great laurel trees. 
 By the courtesy of Kommerzienrat Bernheimer, the room in 
 the tower of the Rathaus looking over the Marienplatz west- 
 wards, and the valley eastward, had been hung with four 
 magnificent pieces of Gobelins tapestry, and the Municipal 
 gardens provided the floral decorations.
 
 So The Reception at Munich 
 
 The noble hall presented an appearance of fairylike beauty. 
 On the west side was a wall of young birch trees, clad in fra- 
 grant green, amid which appeared the bronze busts of the King 
 of England, the German Kaiser, and the Prince Regent of 
 Bavaria, on pedestals decorated with masses of cherry laurel. 
 The banners of the guilds hanging from the walls were over- 
 topped by lofty birch trees, which gave to the whole interior 
 a marvellously beautiful effect of spring. On the east side, a 
 third of the hall had been partitioned off for the use of the 
 singers and orchestra. This partition, screened with pine and 
 birch trees, was arranged as a rounded niche with two portals. 
 In the niche itself stood a tastefully executed monumental 
 fountain, the pillar of which was surrounded by doves in the 
 Gothic style and crowned by a female figure. On the tables 
 were erected the ancient richly decorated staves of the guilds 
 supporting flower-baskets filled with tuberoses, lilac, iris, and 
 roses. These were connected by green garlands intertwined 
 with flashing bands of gold, and adorned with flowers and 
 birds. 
 
 Seen from the President's table the hall offered a scene of 
 indescribable beauty. Professor Bradl's fountain with the 
 branches of the birch trees behind it, forming as it were a 
 dainty light green veil through which the lights of the chan- 
 deliers gleamed, conquered the admiration even of the most 
 critical. It was a masterpiece of decorative art, which reflected 
 the highest honour on the artists responsible for it — Professor 
 Bradl, Baurat Rehlen, and the sculptor Rudolf Gedon. 
 
 The floral decorations were in the hands of Oekonomierat 
 Helier, as Director of the Municipal Gardens, and the tables 
 were decorated by the art gardener under the direction of 
 Herr Gedon, who had also designed the ornaments which were 
 carried round before the different courses. 
 
 The guests assembled at 7.30 in the Council Meeting Room.
 
 The Guests 8i 
 
 The braying of trumpets and the rolling of drums announced 
 their entrance, and they were preceded by two heralds in 
 mediaeval attire. They were at once impressed by the 
 beautiful surroundings in which the banquet was to take 
 place. While they were being marshalled to their places the 
 pupils of the Central Singing School, led by an excellent Male 
 Voice Choir, sang the chorus from Handel's Judas Macca- 
 hceus, " See he comes, crowned with glory." 
 
 The First Biirgermeister, Dr. von Borscht, presided at the 
 table of honour ; on his right was the British Minister, Mr. 
 Cartwright, and on his left Lord Lyveden, President of the 
 British Committee. Besides the British guests and the muni- 
 cipal authorities, there were present the Ministers of State, 
 Dr. Freiherr von Podewils, Dr. von Wehner, Dr. von Frauen- 
 dorfer and Dr. von Pfaff ; Prince Quadt-Wykradt-Isny ; the 
 Lord Chamberlain, Count Moy ; the Commandant of the City, 
 Major-General Nagelsbach ; Ministerialrat von Bohm, Regier- 
 ungsdirektor and Chief of Police Frh. von der Heydte, Reichsrat 
 Frh. von Wurzburg and Reichsrat Ferdinand von Miller, Herr 
 Hauck, President of the Railway Administration at Munich, 
 Herr Buchmann, the English Consul, several scientists and 
 artists, including Geheimrat Dr. von Brentano, Professors Dr. 
 Greuber, von Defregger, Dr. Gab. von Seidl, Diez, von Hau- 
 berrisser, and Baurat Oskar von Miller, as well as representa- 
 tives of industry, commerce, and the press. 
 
 The English Mayors wore their gold chains, and some of 
 the visitors appeared in the uniform of Sheriffs ; Court dress or 
 uniform was generally worn, and this added considerably to 
 the brilliance and picturesqueness of the scene. 
 
 Two Masters of the Ceremonies in purple fur-trimmed 
 mantles, and with wreaths of golden laurel on their heads, took 
 up their position before the fountain in the background, and 
 welcomed the guests with a short poem, delivered first in 
 
 6
 
 82 The Reception at Munich 
 
 German and then in English. They introduced themselves 
 as the representatives of humour, called to spice the meal ; 
 and certainly the way in which these two personages, Herr 
 Heyden, the Court goldsmith, and Herr Nonnenbruch, the 
 painter, sustained their parts and filled the intervals between 
 the courses, was worthy of the Munich tradition which links 
 humour and conviviality with the practice of the arts. 
 
 Before the first course was carried round, two trumpeters 
 
 in mediaeval costume gave the signal, the Masters of the 
 
 Ceremonies recited some appropriate lines, and a great saihng 
 
 ship laden with caviare was carried through the hall by two 
 
 pilots in nautical costume. The caviare was served by an 
 
 army of waiters in white and blue, wearing the Bavarian and 
 
 British coats-of-arms on their breasts, and on their shoulders 
 
 loops of ribbon with the British and Bavarian colours. 
 
 Before the first course grace was sung by the choir. 
 
 Another verse was recited by the Masters of the Ceremonies 
 
 and there appeared a giant soup tureen, the cover of which 
 
 was ornamented by figures of Cupid and a hen. This was 
 
 followed by a huge silver fish carried by two messengers of 
 
 St. Benno. The roast beef was announced by a golden ox 
 
 carried on a golden dish, and the remaining courses were 
 
 heralded by ingenious pageants and comic verses, in the same 
 
 manner. 
 
 One of the most artistic episodes in the banquet was the 
 serving of the " Wine of Honour " (Deidesheimer Kieselberg, 
 1900 vintage) by eighteen young ladies dressed in white. They 
 walked two and two round the hall singing a song specially 
 composed for the occasion, and each maiden carried a glass of 
 wine on a silver salver. The procession halted behind the 
 centre table, and the maidens presented the wine to the guests 
 of honour. Then the procession reformed, and they left the 
 hall singing.
 
 Speech by the Prime Minister of Bavaria 83 
 
 The health of the King of England was proposed by the 
 Prime Minister, Frh. Dr. von Podewils, who spoke as follows : 
 
 " It is with especial pleasure that I rise in order to give 
 expression to the satisfaction His Majesty's Government feel 
 in seeing here as guests of our city so many distinguished 
 representatives of the English people. 
 
 " I look backward to ancient times, when a noble descen- 
 dant of British blood came to our Bavarian provinces to preach 
 Christianity and to lay the foundation-stone of civilization : 
 Winfried it was, a messenger of peace. And if to-day, after 
 more than one thousand years, again messengers of peace have 
 come from the mother-country of Bonifacius to this land, you 
 will see that the seed sown by your great compatriot has borne 
 rich fruit. Where of yore holy monks guarded the treasures 
 of learning and literature, now stands the capital of Bavaria, 
 our busy city, where arts and science thrive and, under the 
 aegis of a noble family of royal patrons, gain new strength and 
 grow to fuller life from year to year. And where art and science 
 bloom, those noblest fruits of years of peace, where genial 
 feelings and true-heartedness belong to the character of the 
 people, there you will find a perfect appreciation of the com- 
 mon bonds which unite all civilized nations. There has always 
 been, everywhere in our German fatherland, a strong feeling 
 of esteem and admiration for the glorious British race ; and 
 this feeling, you may be sure, has been here, with us, as strong 
 as anywhere. 
 
 " My lords and gentlemen, if to-day our countrymen 
 throughout Germany, from the coast lands of the north to 
 the snow-clad mountains of the south, proffer friendly hands 
 to their British guests, you may be sure this is meant sincerely. 
 ' We came in the world like brother and brother.' This 
 quotation of your great poet holds good, I venture to say, also 
 as far as German and English men are concerned. Mindful
 
 ^4 The Reception at Munich 
 
 of such a word, we surely ought not to allow any estrangement 
 to arise between us. How should it be possible that the gi- 
 gantic political and commercial development, which has taken 
 place in both nations during the lapse of a century, should 
 sow the seeds of discord between us ? He, indeed, must hold 
 both nations in low esteem who thinks them capable of jealousy 
 and envy such as this. Two peoples who have based their 
 educational principles upon truth, justice, and free develop- 
 ment of character are historically called upon to struggle side 
 by side for the moral and material progress of mankind. Keep- 
 ing this aim before our eyes, there will be only friendly rivalry 
 between us wherever the German and English spirit of enter- 
 prise enter into competition throughout the world. And the 
 mighty work performed by the powerful energies of the British 
 and German people, in the domains of intelligence and political 
 economy, will become a source of blessing to both nations 
 and the whole world, 
 
 " Ah, if our souls but poise and swing 
 Like the compass in its brazen ring. 
 Ever level and ever true 
 To the toil and the task we have to do. 
 We shall sail securely, and safely reach 
 The Fortunate Isles, on whose shining beach 
 The sights we see, and the sounds we hear, 
 Will be those of joy and not of fear. 
 
 " My lords and gentlemen, I beg you to accept our sin- 
 cerest thanks for having come here, personally to study the 
 institutions of the German cities, which, I hope, will give you 
 a true idea of what has been done, by a quiet and industrious 
 people, for civilization and social progress. You will meet 
 with a highly developed interest in all public concerns which 
 has its root in self government. Getting a personal insight 
 into our German life, you will win a true opinion of our German
 
 Speech by Lord Lyveden 85 
 
 character, our feelings and our mode of thought. There is no 
 better way for a good mutual understanding than to become 
 personally acquainted. There is no doubt it is the only way 
 to swell the great number of those who are working for friendly 
 relations between the two nations to an overwhelming majority, 
 whose voice — stronger than all sounds of discord — will at 
 length be paramount. 
 
 " Take then, my lords and gentlemen, together with my 
 thanks for your noble efforts on behalf of hearty relations 
 between Germany and England, the assurance that your call 
 will find a full echo in the German heart. I call upon you 
 then, in expression of our sincerest admiration for the great 
 British nation, to drink to the health of the august and 
 powerful King of Great Britain and Ireland, who is equally 
 connected with Germany by ties of blood and those of tradi- 
 tion." 
 
 The speech was followed by " God save the King," during 
 which the guests remained standing. 
 
 Lord Lyveden proposed the next toast as follows : 
 
 " Herr First burgermeister and Gentlemen, 
 
 " I deem it a great honour that I am permitted to pro- 
 pose the toast of H.R.H. the Prince Regent and of H.M. the 
 Emperor William IL on this occasion. The Royal House of 
 Bavaria is known throughout the whole civilized world by all 
 who love art and appreciate music, for its munificent patronage 
 of both. We are glad to learn that under the Prince Regent 
 Bavaria's prosperity is steadily increasing and that the city in 
 which we have been so hospitably received is continually ex- 
 panding. 
 
 "It has been the good fortune of many members of our 
 Committee this afternoon, to see those marvellous works of 
 art which the patronage of your Royal House has brought
 
 86 The Reception at Munich 
 
 together in your famous galleries, and it is the memory of these 
 things which we shall carry back to our homes. 
 
 " I have included in my toast H.M. the German Emperor, 
 whose assistance and support we as a Committee have so 
 gratefully experienced. 
 
 " I therefore call upon you, gentlemen, to drink the health 
 of H.R.H. the Prince Regent of Bavaria, and of H.M. the 
 German Emperor William." 
 
 The next toast proposed was " The English Guests," by 
 the First Biirgermeister, who spoke as follows : 
 
 " The citizens of Munich have always felt a great satis- 
 faction when they have met with a lively interest in their in- 
 stitutions, and especially when they have had an opportunity 
 of making foreign delegates acquainted with these institutions. 
 
 " But it is with the greatest pleasure that we bid welcome, 
 in this noble old hall, our visitors to-day, not only on account 
 of their great number and the high position they take in life, 
 but still more because of the intentions which have brought 
 them to the German Empire, and the rich blessing which I 
 am sure will come from their procedure. The organization 
 of the British Committee for the Study of Foreign Municipal 
 Institutions marks an epoch in the history of civilization, for, 
 quite apart from the secret and tangled ways of high policy, 
 it opens a wide field of work for all friends of peace between 
 nations, of whatever nationality they may be, for all those 
 who are willing to keep and augment the highest possessions 
 of mankind. 
 
 " For the members of this Committee the question is not 
 so much to get information about the condition of such and 
 such an institution, but to become acquainted wth the spirit 
 which led to the creation of these institutions, to gain an 
 intimate knowledge of German manners, German character.
 
 Speech by the First Burgermeister 87 
 
 and of the organization of German labour, and to get this 
 knowledge from those circles which are mostly interested in the 
 promotion of public good and welfare : the German citizens. 
 
 " In this sense your visit has been interpreted by all German 
 cities, which have received you as honoured guests. And 
 Munich is proud of being able not only to impress you favour- 
 ably with all it has done and created, but, above all, to give 
 evidence of being at one with you in the ardent desire that the 
 two greatest cultured States of Germanic origin should come 
 nearer to each other by a mutual understanding of their 
 national character, their peculiar way of thinking and feeling, 
 and that, moreover, the many ties uniting the two countries 
 may become stronger and stronger by a liberal exchange of all 
 the blessings of civilization. 
 
 " If we join you, my honoured guests, in working for such 
 a high aim, we adhere to the tradition which for many centuries 
 has controlled the relations of both countries. There is — in 
 the most important questions of civilization — a solidarity 
 between England and Germany which, I daresay, has become 
 stronger from year to year. 
 
 " Wherever we look in the history of the world, we never 
 see Germany and England waging war against each other. 
 It is an actual fact that England never laid hand upon German 
 territory, whereas other States, in times gone by, tried to profit 
 by the weakness and disunion of the old German Empire. 
 
 " On the contrary, Germany and England have fought 
 bravely side by side wherever there was to be maintained 
 the balance of power in Europe and wherever liberty and justice 
 were at stake. Could there be anything more absurd than 
 the idea of the two nations becoming enemies; that there should 
 be any other rivalry than the cordial competition in fulfiHing 
 to the best of their power the noble duties of humanity ? 
 
 " It is true, the position of Germany in the European con-
 
 S8 The Reception at Munich 
 
 cert has undergone a great change. The German ' Michael,' 
 once laughed at so much, has become a German * Siegfried,' 
 who, with his self-wrought sword, will never destroy the hoard 
 of the Niflungs, the greatest treasures of mankind, but will 
 keep down the dragon of envy and discord, and will protect 
 an honest, blissful peace between the nations. And if we, at 
 the same time, succeed in making up for what was neglected, 
 through centuries of disunion and misery, in the fields of 
 pohtical economy, this, I hope, will be no danger to the welfare 
 of other countries, especially to England, but a source of her 
 prosperity as well as of ours. 
 
 " It is not for the first time that thoughts of this kind have 
 been uttered in this hall. * At the beginning of last year more 
 than a thousand men from all social ranks came together 
 here in order to declare that they would reject the idea of an 
 estrangement between the two nations, emphasizing, at the 
 same time, the need of a kindly intercourse in feeling and action 
 between Germany and England on the natural basis of political 
 equahty. To-day, enjoying the great distinction of seeing so 
 highly esteemed Englishmen amongst us, I consider it as a 
 duty of honour to declare in my own name and that of my 
 fellow citizens, with all energy, that we in our relations with 
 your country wish to leave out of sight everything by which 
 we may be separated in order to consider only what we have 
 in common, and that we sincerely hope to remain connected 
 with you in true friendship. 
 
 " That is the welcome with which, my honoured guests, 
 we shake hands with you, fully aware of the ethical and na- 
 tional importance of your visit, and as a token of our warm 
 admiration and esteem offer the toast : ' The health of our 
 British guests, the sincere friends of our German Fatherland ! ' " 
 
 Sir John Gorst replied, and proposed the toast of the 
 hospitable city of Munich. He said : " Munich appeals to us
 
 Speech by Sir John Gorst 89 
 
 British, not only because it is the capital of the Kingdom of 
 Bavaria, in which we have received so royal and hearty a 
 reception, nor because it is one of the loveliest ornaments of 
 the German Empire, but rather as the Mother of beauty in 
 architecture, painting, sculpture, and music, and the Queen of 
 Art for the entire world. Her influence is not confined to her 
 own inhabitants, but pervades the entire kingdom of Bavaria, 
 and makes of the Bavarian peasants of Ober Ammergau models 
 of propriety and strength in artistic expression for the greatest 
 actors and actresses of modern Europe. Art has no nationality, 
 but all who love what is beautiful in painting or sculpture, 
 in architecture or music, are brothers and recognize no division 
 of either nation, language or race. In your great exhibition 
 of painting you give an impartial place to the artists, of all 
 countries ; in your Glyptothek you have statues from all lands 
 and of all ages, even by unknown sculptors of ancient Greece. 
 It has been my good fortune often to have visited Munich, 
 In youth, in middle age, and now again at the end of my days, 
 I look back upon hours and memories of the greatest pleasure 
 and profit derived from the contemplation of the beautiful 
 works of art of all kinds which Munich displays. I come 
 back to it to-day as if I were coming to a home, and although 
 we shall spend the next few days in the arduous study of dull 
 and dry municipal institutions, our hearts will be warmed and 
 quickened by the artistic beauties with which we shall be 
 surrounded ; and if I may express the experience of a life-time, 
 the pleasure of contemplating beautiful works, of hearing 
 beautiful sounds, is just as great to the old as to the young, 
 and though most bodily pleasures pass away as you grow old, 
 the love of Art is one that does not pass away, and the charm 
 which the Beautiful exercises on the human mind is continually 
 increasing as life goes on, and gives just the same pleasure 
 to the old as to the young. ' Das Alter macht nicht
 
 90 The Reception at Munich 
 
 kindisch, wie man sagt, es findet uns noch nur also wahre 
 Kinder.' " 
 
 Professor Dr. Sieper then proposed the toast of prosperity 
 to England in the following terms : 
 
 " Gladly and heartily did I obey the call to bring a health 
 to that great and famous nation — England, dear old England, 
 many of whose foremost sons are gathered here at our banquet 
 to-day. 
 
 " England, bonny Scotland, Erin, — I like the ring of these 
 good old names. Pleasant are the memories they awaken, 
 when I think of all the help and encouragement you afforded 
 me, a stranger come to study your English tongue, of the true 
 and trusty friends I won there, and those glorious times we 
 spent together. And of the many cosy chats over crackling 
 fires, when winter stormed outside ; and the lovely landscapes 
 I saw on my travels — proud Oxford with its scented meadows 
 bathed in the evening light, and Dover's cliffs towering up 
 over the mighty sea. Feelings of gratitude arise in me ; rich 
 memories are these of days when I was free, and kindly hearts 
 endeared each thing. 
 
 " But now to other topics and the nearer subject of my 
 theme. 
 
 " To-night, having the honour of treating as guests so 
 many distinguished Englishmen, I think it is not out of place 
 if I point out how much all of us owe to their mother country, 
 how much German intellectual life has been fructified by 
 English civilization. 
 
 " England gave us Shakespeare, to whom all classical 
 authors and all poets ever since have looked as to the perfect 
 model of dramatic art, England bore a Bacon, the father 
 of English empiricism, who showed us the ways by which, 
 above all else, our German sciences attained such unforeseen
 
 Speech by Dr. Sieper 91 
 
 results. Great, indeed, was also the influence which the 
 Romantic movement in English literature, beginning in the 
 second half of the eighteenth century, has exerted upon Ger- 
 many. I think of the poetry of Ossian which inspired our 
 Herder and Goethe, of the immortal songs of Robert Burns, 
 opening new paths for the best of our German popular singers : 
 Claus Groth, Leitholdl, and many others. Let me also mention 
 Byron, whose fascinating personality struck Continental people 
 perhaps more than his countrymen ; Shelley, whose ideal works 
 have brought comfort and joy to thousands of minds in Ger- 
 many. 
 
 " Later times, again, have produced in England men who, 
 in the best sense of the word, were apostles of culture and 
 from whom we Germans have derived much benefit. Thus 
 Carlyle, the preacher of sincerity in thought, act and feeling, 
 who wrote the biography of Schiller and the history of our 
 immortal Frederick the Great ; also Ruskin, who revealed 
 the Gospel of Beauty to the world, thereby giving an impulse 
 to social reform, which we then also recognised as expedient 
 and necessary. 
 
 " As a matter of fact, in England first the feeling of respon- 
 sibility and the need of providing for the disinherited and 
 helpless began to stir among the educated and higher classes. 
 There, the necessity of hfe's joys for all was first emphasised, 
 of the pleasure of intellectual enjoyment and the blessing of 
 beauty and art, and of enabhng the lowest classes (all too 
 much despised) to partake of these blessings. In England, 
 Art was first made popular under the aegis and by the strength 
 of will, born of the victorious belief in humanity, of William 
 Morris. The present remarkable and dominant need for 
 aesthetic intellectual pursuits is of English origin. In England, 
 more than a hundred years ago woman's claim to freedom and 
 work began to be discussed to the general advantage, since
 
 92 The Reception at Munich 
 
 the days when Mary Wollstonecraft wrote her 'Vindication 
 of the Rights of Woman.' 
 
 " The hfe of to-day teaches us, in the same way as it did in 
 the past, how much Germany and England can impart to each 
 other in the realms of culture. 
 
 " Any one who has visited England with the honest intention 
 of learning, will come back to his home the richer in experience 
 and convictions. It is indeed no small advantage that the 
 impartial and yet critical observer can derive from English 
 life : the unshakable faith in the necessity and blessing of 
 individual and political freedom ; the respect for individuality 
 and its expression, even when opinions clash ; the upholding 
 of the maxim of ' fair dealing ' and fighting fair in public 
 life ; the efficacy of private initiative, which does not 
 wait for higher orders, but marches on confident in its 
 own strength ; the self-discipline and self-government of all 
 classes of the people ; the cultivation of home life and pure 
 relations. As to these advantages, England can be at 
 least to a certain degree an example to us and to other 
 nations. 
 
 " We are not, however, only recipients in regard to England. 
 The British nation, too, owes much to Germany in the realms 
 of culture. At the banquet which was given, about a 
 year ago, in honour of the German Burgomasters by the 
 British Committee for the Study of Foreign Municipal Insti- 
 tutions, Mr. Haldane in an excellent speech pointed out of 
 what enormous importance German literature and philosophy 
 have been in the history of English civilization. The tribute 
 the English War Minister paid to our German poets and 
 thinkers was one of the most marked attentions we received 
 in those never-to-be-forgotten days. It was Mr. Haldane, 
 too, who personally informed me of the great authority our 
 philosopher Hegel exercises in modem England. Nearly four-
 
 Speech by Dr. Sieper 93 
 
 fifths of the EngHsh university lecturers are under the influence 
 of this ideal German thinker. 
 
 " Having treated of past and present, let me now pass on 
 to the future. And here, not less, have England and Germany 
 much to learn from each other ; nay, they will be mutually 
 dependent, the one on the other, in a very high degree. Both 
 nations at this moment, or appearances must greatly deceive 
 me, are about to enter on a new phase of development. Each 
 has thus far grandly deployed her peculiar forces, with relatively 
 high results. The one owes her greatness to that methodical 
 and scientific spirit with which we approach the solution 
 of every task to centralization and organized public control. 
 England's place among the nations has been won for her by 
 the sound practical common sense of her people, their matter- 
 of-fact turn of mind, and the untrammelled development of 
 their individual powers ; and further, I would say, by their 
 aptitude to organise more on inductive lines proceeding from 
 the particular to the general. 
 
 "It is the very intensity of these so divergent forms of 
 development which must needs engender a certain narrowness, 
 and of this we are both now becoming conscious. In England 
 one is beginning to see that in technics and industry John 
 Bull will be left behind in the race, if he will not hear of system 
 and scientific proceedings ; that in education there must be 
 no loose handling of intellectual forces ; that to carry the day 
 the troops must be held in hand and uniformly directed to the 
 point at issue ; that the social problem cannot be solved by 
 private initiative alone, without the aid and intervention of the 
 State. 
 
 " In Germany, too, it is more and more beginning to dawn 
 on us that theories and abstract dogmas must not blind our 
 eyes to the importance of facts ; tliat centralization must not 
 degenerate into a mere routine, only there to stifle at its birth
 
 94 The Reception at Munich 
 
 every free development of individual talent, that, especially 
 in social questions, legislation alone is not all-sufficient, but 
 needs to be supplemented by the charity and labour of each 
 unit of the population. One nation's eyes are bent on the 
 other's, on the friend that brings what the other wants, whose 
 virtues and gifts she would fain make her own. 
 
 " Thus, and not till then, shall England and Germany, 
 mutually giving of their best, arrive at their full strength and 
 fulfil their glorious mission in the world. High is the ideal, 
 and easy of attainment on one condition : we must live in 
 friendship, and * keep peace and ensue it.' And here at our 
 sumptuous banquet good feeling reigns — of that I am assured — 
 in the hearts of all. From my mouth then be spoken the 
 general wish : May there always be a good understanding 
 between us; may peace and friendship be ours, now and for 
 €ver ! 
 
 "It is true there are fire-eating editors, as Mr. Winston 
 Churchill styles them, who tell us that both countries hate 
 each other. Why should there be such a hatred ? a reasonable 
 man naturally asks. They point to the growing competition 
 in trade and commerce between us. Even peaceful, enlightened 
 people will say : ' Your efforts for a good understanding be- 
 tween Germany and England will be fruitless as long as there 
 is such great industrial and commercial rivalry.' But, I should 
 like to ask, do you really believe commercial rivalry could be 
 done away with by brute force. No resort to arms could either 
 uphold or further a country's progress. There have been 
 commerical wars in centuries gone by, but they have led to 
 nothing. ' Was there ever a commercial war which paid a 
 dividend of a farthing in the pound ? ' Such was the satirical 
 question of Mr. Winston Churchill at the Eighty Club Dinner 
 in honour of the German Burgomasters' visit. The very first 
 step in such a war, nay, even the first diplomatic measures,
 
 Speech by Dr. Sieper 95 
 
 would involve losses for the commercial world which could 
 not be reimbursed by any success. Commercial circles are 
 fully aware of this fact. Their work, like that of all produc- 
 tive classes, can only thrive in time of peace. When, a year 
 ago, we arranged the meeting in this hall, which our Burgo- 
 master has alluded to, the representatives of commercial 
 interests were the first and readiest to answer to our appeal. 
 
 " Does this same feeling prevail in the commercial world 
 of England ? In my hand is a letter which, I think, has quite 
 the value of a document. It contains the answer of the Lord 
 Mayor of London, W. Vaughan Morgan, to a declaration which 
 was sent to him by our Burgomaster after our above men- 
 tioned manifestation. I think the Lord Mayor, as the repre- 
 sentative of the City of London, must be fairly well informed 
 about what is felt and thought in the commercial world of 
 England. In this letter we read : 
 
 " ' The reports of any estrangement between our two 
 nations are, if they exist at all, greatly exaggerated and of 
 no possible moment. My fellow countrymen are sincerely 
 desirous of continuing the friendly relations with which they 
 have so long regarded their German neighbours and associates. 
 The only rivalry permitted to us is that cordial competition 
 in trade and commerce in which we are mutually interested. 
 
 " ' I beg you to accept yourself, and to convey to the dis- 
 tinguished personages by whom your Declaration was signed, 
 my warmest acknowledgments, with the renewed assurance 
 that all their statements are earnestly and entirely recipro- 
 cated in the City of London.' 
 
 " My lords and gentlemen, such is the hostile feeling 
 entertained in English commercial and industrial centres. 
 Clever men — and I reckon successful members of the com- 
 mercial world amongst them — know very well that only in- 
 telligence, industry, and energy can win prosperity. If one
 
 96 The Reception at Munich 
 
 people sees itself outstripped in the hard struggle of com- 
 petition, it ought to be spurred on to greater zeal and emulation 
 on the forward march of economic, technical, social, and moral 
 progress. 
 
 " But there is a certain amount of feeling on both sides 
 of the Channel. Whence does it originate ? The principal 
 cause — this truth must out — is the press : not the whole press, 
 I am glad to say, but a certain class of papers whose ignorance, 
 whose love of sensation and scandal is, I am afraid, greater 
 than the zeal for truth. The dangerous activity of these 
 papers is furthered by the attitude of certain people, super- 
 patriots I should like to call them, who, impressed with 
 their own national superiority and integrity, have a painful 
 consciousness of the baseness of others. Without doubt, 
 patriotism is a glorious adornment of mankind, but if it serves 
 as a mere mask for arrogance and pretension and mean 
 derogation of others, the greatest virtue becomes the most 
 disgusting thing in the world. 
 
 " Of course, the influence of the press and superpatriots 
 would have been less dangerous, if both nations were better 
 informed about each other. The ignorance of large classes 
 of people in Germany with regard to England and vice versa 
 is, indeed, sometimes astonishingly great, and this ignorance is 
 dangerous. Buckle, in his ' History of Civilization,' points out 
 that ignorance is the principal cause of hatred between nations, 
 but if traffic spreads and brings nations together, such ignor- 
 ance will disappear. The task of spreading enlightenment 
 devolves in the first place on our schools and, above all, on 
 those educationalists who have to teach the languages and the 
 literature of modern nations. 
 
 " The more signal will this enlightenment be if it goes 
 hand in hand with more intimate personal intercourse between 
 the inhabitants of Germany and England.
 
 
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 Speech by Dr. Lunn ' 97 
 
 " Repeatedly has the idea been expressed to have an ex- 
 change of professors not only with America but also between 
 Germany and England. Even in regard to Grammar Schools — 
 nay, even students — such an exchange might take place. 
 This idea has already taken shape in the Cecil Rhodes Scholar- 
 ships. But nothing seems to me to be more promising than 
 those systematically arranged excursions which the British 
 Committee has already practically organized, thereby leading 
 men of both nations to come in personal contact ; and we all 
 know how a hearty shake of the hand, friendly looks from 
 honest eyes, draw soul to soul, and strengthen those bonds of 
 friendship which find their expression in our good comradeship 
 to-day. Such meetings are rich in opportunities for social ex- 
 change of feelings and thoughts. I think we are all agreed 
 that everything works to unite us, and our little differences are 
 not worth the mention. And this community of noble in- 
 terests, and our united efforts to further the march of the 
 world's progress, will prove a blessing, — a force outweighing 
 all the evil, the ignorance, and the malice of the times. 
 
 " I conclude with the words of Baron von Wurtzburg which 
 he spoke at our meeting here on the sixth of January last 
 year : ' Political values rise and fall and are for ever subject 
 to change. Immutable, tough, and enduring beyond all 
 political constellations is the value of culture and ethics, 
 science and art, religion and morals, public spirit, manhood 
 and justice.' " 
 
 Dr. Lunn then proposed the toast of "The Prosperity of 
 Bavaria and Germany " as follows : 
 
 " Before proceeding with the toast which has been en- 
 trusted to me, I am instructed by our members to express the 
 sense of almost bewildered admiration with which they have 
 gazed upon this brilliant spectacle. We feel that even the 
 
 7
 
 98 The Reception at Munich 
 
 genius of a Wagner could not have devised a more beautiful 
 setting for the drama of International Friendship in which 
 you and we are actors. 
 
 "It is fifteen years this summer since first I visited your 
 country, attracted by the genius of your great composer 
 Wagner. At Bayreuth it was my privilege to hear, amongst 
 other operas, ' Tannhauser,* which was again repeated for us 
 by the courtesy of the authorities of Frankfort. 
 
 " None who have witnessed the opening scene of that play 
 and have heard the passionate prayer of Tannhauser to the 
 Blessed Virgin to be delivered from the attractions of the 
 temptress, and have seen the dreams of passion vanish away 
 and the pure surroundings of home and friends take its place, 
 can fail to realise that in Wagner we have that same gift of 
 genius that characterizes our great dramatist Shakespeare 
 and Goethe, whose birthplace we have just left behind us. 
 But you, Sir, have the honour of holding office in the capital of 
 a country which is gifted perhaps beyond all others with the 
 dramatic instinct. Never shall I forget another occasion, 
 several years ago, when I was present at the first performance 
 for that decade of your wonderful ' Passion Play ' at Ober 
 Ammergau. As I saw those peasants reproducing the most 
 sacred scenes in the world's history with a fidelity and insight 
 which could not be surpassed, I turned to my companion and 
 said, ' These are remarkable peasants,' ' Not peasants,' she 
 replied, ' but kings.' And kings among actors surely is the 
 position and the place of men who on that occasion repre- 
 sented so faithfuly the characters of Christ our Lord, St. John 
 the Beloved Apostle, and Judas the Betrayer. 
 
 "In England we have recently had a most successful attempt 
 to revive in our towns and villages that dramatic spirit which 
 is inherent in human nature, and from no country have we 
 received a greater stimulus in that effort and hope of success
 
 Speech by Dr. Lunn 99 
 
 in our undertaking than from the land which has produced the 
 peasants of Ober Ammergau. Your country, Sir, is gifted 
 not only with the dramatic genius of its people, but also with 
 other artistic ideals which seem to be a dower conferred by 
 nature upon all your children. When members of our Com- 
 mittee visit your villages through your kind hospitality, they 
 will see the spontaneous outburst of artistic natures manifest 
 alike in the building of the humblest chalet and in the paint- 
 ings which adorn its walls. If time permits them to visit your 
 wood-carving schools they will be able to see that the Muse of 
 Sculpture is determined not to be outdone by her sister Muse 
 of Painting in the lavishness with which she has gifted your 
 people. It is fit that in such a country the greatest works 
 of art should find an abiding home. But Nature, which in our 
 northern climes is so sparing of her gifts, which from the 
 German Ocean to the Urals shows scarcely a hillock to break 
 the monotony of the scenery, has in this beautiful land of 
 yours given you not only the artistic gifts to which I have 
 referred, but also lake and mountain, glacier, forest and water- 
 fall, in wonderful profusion. Finally, determined in no 
 respect to fail in her bountiful largesse, she has given strength 
 and manliness to your men and beauty and charm to your 
 women. I toast Bavaria the beautiful, Bavaria the artistic, 
 Bavaria the home of the drama. 
 
 " But I also address you to-night as citizens of the great 
 German Empire, and congratulate you upon possessing within 
 the area of your Empire a wealth of commercial and manu- 
 facturing interests which is increasing from day to day. I 
 congratulate you on having abolished within the Empire those 
 great enemies of successful commerce, the Customs Houses, 
 which at one time interfered with the free exchange of commo- 
 dities within your frontiers. You have shown the whole world 
 how great are the benefits when a number of nations agree to
 
 loo The Reception at Munich 
 
 break down the tariff walls between one another. No longer 
 does the Wiirtemberger pay duty on Bavarian beer when it 
 enters his country, no longer do the iron manufactures of 
 Westphalia pay duty when they enter the Bavarian realms. 
 With the unification of your Empire and the establishment 
 of the ZoUverein you have been given a prosperity which is 
 increasing with a rapidity which few nations have known. 
 
 " We have come to you to-day with a message of goodwill 
 from our own land ; we beg you not to listen, if I may use an 
 English phrase, to the ' harebrained chatter ' of ' irrespon- 
 sible ' journalists ; we beg you to disregard all the voices that 
 declare that there is any inherent reason in the constitution of 
 things for hostility between two nations which have never met 
 in hostile array on the battlefield. We ask you to believe 
 that those who are so closely united with you in blood as the 
 members of the Anglo-Saxon race undoubtedly are, have every 
 reason to cultivate feelings of the deepest friendship for the 
 kindred nation separated from them (or shall I rather say 
 united to them) by the waters of the German Ocean. Long 
 may the commercial relations which at present lead to such 
 benefit to both nations continue undisturbed, and in the years 
 when our children's children take our place may the friendli- 
 ness of this banquet be perpetuated amongst them our descen- 
 dants. I ask you to drink to the toast of Bavaria and Ger- 
 many." 
 
 After this speech a Heligoland fisherman brought two 
 large lobsters into the hall on a golden trident. He was ac- 
 companied by Heligoland maidens in their characteristic 
 costumes and clanking wooden shoes. This was followed by 
 the appearance of a huge white goose surrounded by her roasted 
 sisters and by salad, cucumber, etc., which was borne through 
 the hall by Roman senators. This allusion to the debt which 
 Rome owed to the geese of the Capitol was seized at once, and
 
 Message from the Prince Regent loi 
 
 the remark that it was better to eat geese than to use their 
 quills occasioned much laughter. 
 
 Finally four maidens, accompanied by youths bearing wine 
 and fruit, carried into the hall a huge English Royal Crown 
 constructed of fruit. Everybody rose, and guests and hosts 
 exchanged hearty handclasps. Amid a scene of indescribable 
 enthusiasm the orchestra played *' Die Wacht am Rhein," 
 which was sung by the whole company standing. 
 
 The Englishmen could not find words to express their sense 
 of the splendid and munificent welcome which they had re- 
 ceived. Lord Lyveden said to his neighbour, " We are treated 
 like kings." One of the visitors smote his fist on the table in 
 his enthusiasm and exclaimed, " I would sooner lose £500 
 than miss the remembrance of this evening." The banquet 
 lasted till midnight, and even then those who had spent so happy 
 a time together found it difficult to part, and lingered for the 
 further interchange of friendly words. 
 
 The musical part of the programme fully corresponded in 
 excellence to the rest of the entertainment. There was some 
 final choral singing by an admirable male voice choir, and the 
 orchestra of the II Infantry Regiment, under the direction 
 of Herr Windisch, played during the evening. 
 
 The following telegram was sent by H.R.H. the Prince 
 Regent in answer to the telegram which was dispatched to 
 him by the Committee from Nuremberg : 
 
 " At the very highest command, I have the honour to 
 transmit to the Committee the best thanks of H.R.H. the 
 Prince Regent for the telegram of greeting. H.R.H. sends 
 the British Committee a hearty greeting of welcome to Ba- 
 varian lands, accompanied by the wish that the journey may 
 give all the members profitable and satisfactory impressions. 
 
 " Frii. von Wiedemann, 
 
 " Adjutant-General."
 
 CHAPTER X 
 A ROYAL RECEPTION AT THE PALACE 
 
 The weather on Monday could not have been more favourable 
 for the drive through the town which formed the first item on 
 the programme of the visitors. Several motor cars had been 
 placed at their disposal in the kindest manner by members of 
 the Touring Club and others. The first place to be visited 
 was the Workmen's Museum in the Pfarrstrasse, where the 
 visitors were received by the Central Inspector, Dr. Dyck, and 
 the Museum officials, and also by Gewerberat Fikentscher of 
 Speyer, who gave an explanation of the collections in English. 
 The guests then proceeded to the Municipal Industrial School 
 in the Liebherrstrasse and to the Miiller Public Baths, where 
 they were received by the Treasurer, Herr Wimmer. They were 
 then conducted by the Biirgermeister, Dr. von Borscht, and the 
 Herrn Schoner and Horburg through the building, which 
 delighted the guests by its admirable construction and fitting 
 up. The Dogs' Bath was particularly appreciated. The 
 Eastern Cemetery, St. Martin's Poor House, and the Free 
 Baths for men were also visited. 
 
 At one o'clock they repaired to the Artists' Club to partake 
 of a luncheon which was offered them by the Upper Bavaria 
 Chamber of Commerce and the Munich Commercial Associa- 
 tion. The beautiful weather made it possible to have luncheon 
 served in the court, and the company gave themselves up 
 with great satisfaction to physical and mental enjoyment. 
 
 1 02
 
 Bavarian Royal Reception 103 
 
 Radishes, sausages, and other cold viands, with an ample supply 
 of foaming hock, represented the former, and the strains of a 
 small but excellent Bockmusik the latter. 
 
 Commerzienrat Pfister welcomed the guests in the name 
 of the Commercial Society of Munich, and Councillor Stapley, 
 of the Corporation of the City of London, replied. In his 
 speech he congratulated Munich on its recent development 
 and on the brilliant artistic talent of which last night's enter- 
 tainment had afforded a specimen. 
 
 The apartments of the Artists' Club House were then 
 visited, and the English guests could see for themselves what 
 Munich artists have accomplished in the field of domestic 
 decoration. 
 
 At two o'clock the visitors regained their motors and were 
 driven to the north and north-west parts of the town. A half 
 was made at the Nymphenberg Orphanage, near the Nymphen- 
 berg Canal, Councillor Grassel and the Lady Superior re- 
 ceived the guests and conducted them to the hall, where they 
 were greeted by the assembled children with a song. Then 
 boys dressed as shepherds entered, and danced a shepherds' 
 dance to a musical accompaniment, incidentally giving three 
 cheers for the English guests. The pretty tableaux and 
 graceful dancing delighted the visitors, who expressed their 
 thanks for such a charming surprise. The building and garden 
 were then inspected in detail. 
 
 Councillors Horburg and Grassel then showed them over 
 the new Hospital of the Holy Ghost, which had only been 
 occupied for a few days when the visit was made. The in- 
 stallation of a hospital is so important a part of municipal work 
 that the members of the Committee were glad to have the 
 opportunity of studying the latest results of German skill and 
 science in this matter.
 
 104 Bavarian Royal Reception 
 
 Court Banquet in the Residence 
 
 At 4.30 p.m. H.R.H. the Prince Regent gave a banquet 
 in honour of the Committee in the Court Ball Room of the 
 Residence. The table, which was arranged in the form of a 
 horse-shoe, contained eighty-one places, and was splendidly 
 decorated with flowers in golden jardinieres and other gala 
 pieces, including the " Prince Charles " table centre in eleven 
 parts. The hall itself was lavishly adorned with flowers from 
 the Court gardens. The guests were in Court dress, and the 
 Bcene was a brilliant one. H.R.H. the Prince Regent, who 
 was unavoidably absent from Munich, was represented by Prince 
 Rupprecht, who was supported by the Court Marshal Count 
 von Seinsheim, the Master of Ceremonies Count von Moy, 
 Adjutant Lieut-Col. von Stetten, and Rittmeister Count zu 
 Pappenheim. 
 
 Among the guests were Mr. Cartwright, the British Minis- 
 ter, and Lord Lyveden, who had the places of honour on 
 either side of the Prince, Sir John Gorst, Sir Thomas Brooke- 
 Hitching, the Ministers of State von Podewils, von Fraun- 
 dorfer, Frh. von Speidel, Reischsrat Frh. von Wurzberg, 
 the two Biirgermeisters von Borscht and von Brunner, 
 Railway President Hauck, Professor Dr. Sieper, British 
 Consul Buchmann, Dr. Miiller, Privy Councillor to the 
 Legation, Herr Donle, Councillor to the Legation, Herm 
 Schwarz, Huber, Dall' Armi and Buchner, Directors of the 
 Municipal College, Frh. von Pechmann, Bank Director, Herr 
 Wolzl and Dr. Kuhles, Legal Councillors, Dr. May, Railway 
 Director, Kommerzienrat von Pfister, Herm Heilmann, Le- 
 bracht and Zechbauer, Herm Feierabend, Schenk, and Dr. 
 Pachmayr, Magisterial Councillors, and Herm Aster, Pschorr. 
 and Buschbeck. 
 
 As Prince Rupprecht and the guests entered the Ball Room,
 
 The Gala Opera Performance 105 
 
 the string orchestra of the Foot Guard Regiment struck up a 
 popular English march. The same orchestra executed during 
 the banquet a programme of music containing a considerable 
 number of pieces by English composers. 
 
 After the fifth course, Prince Rupprecht rose and spoke 
 as follows : 
 
 " Gentlemen, — As you have come to study the public 
 institutions of the Bavarian capital, you may perhaps be 
 interested to know that some of them are due to the impulse 
 given by B. Thompson, an Anglo-American philanthropist 
 who lived in ^lunich about a hundred and twenty years ago, 
 and to whose memory a grateful posterity has erected a monu- 
 ment An exchange of ideas has always a beneficial effect, 
 resulting as it does in mutual esteem and knowledge. I there- 
 fore welcome 3^ou heartily, as the representative of my most 
 illustrious grandfather, the Prince Regent, to the Royal'Resi- 
 dence, and ask you to drink the health of King Edward and 
 our blood relations, the English nation." 
 
 After the banquet, tea and coffee were served in the hall 
 of Charles the Great. 
 
 The Gala Performance in the Prince Regent Theatre 
 
 In the evening at 7.30 the members of the Committee 
 witnessed a brilliant performance of " Tannhauser." The 
 arrival of the guests was a sight in itself. Shortly before 6.30 
 arrived the Princes Leopold and Ludwig Ferdinand with their 
 princesses. Prince Henry, Prince Konrad, Duke and Duchess 
 Karl Theodor, and Duke Ludwig with Frau von Bartolf. 
 
 The performance turned out to be quite an extraordinary 
 demonstration for the prima donna, Frl. Berta Morena, who 
 appeared on the stage that night for the first time since her 
 serious illness. When she appeared as Elizabeth in the Hall
 
 io6 Bavarian Royal Reception 
 
 of Song, with every sign of joyous excitement, she was received 
 with a storm of applause. Then she sang with the deepest 
 feeUng the great aria, " Thee, dear hall, I greet again." A 
 wave of feeling passed through the house, and a second burst 
 of cheering broke forth which continued for some time. The 
 visitors were fortunate in the opportunity of hearing this 
 fine artiste, who is so great a favourite with music lovers in 
 Munich that her absence from the stage has been mourned as 
 a public deprivation. Frl. Morena is said to be unrivalled 
 in her presentation of the heroines of Wagner opera, and to be 
 the best Aida on the German stage. 
 
 Herr Forchhammer, from the Frankfort Opera House, 
 gave an exceptionally interesting rendering of the part of Tann- 
 hauser, and the orchestra did splendidly under the guidance of 
 its famous conductor, Herr Felix Mottl.
 
 CHAPTER XI 
 
 THE MUNICH WATER SUPPLY AND THE 
 BAVARIAN HIGHLANDS 
 
 On the next day, Tuesday, the members of the Committee 
 left Munich at 9.10 a.m., accompanied by Biirgermeister von 
 Borscht, Dr. Singer, and others to visit the Munich Water 
 Works. 
 
 The special train provided by the State Railway Administra- 
 tion carried the party, consisting of about a hundred people, 
 to a point close to Deisenhofen on the Holzkirchen line. 
 
 Under the guidance of the chief engineer, Herr Dahinten, 
 the visitors first inspected some shafts that were full. Each 
 shaft was three metres deep, and contained 1,900 cubic metres 
 of water. The water takes three hours to flow in, and the 
 reservoir can be emptied in the same space of time. 
 
 To show the enormous dimensions of the collecting basins, 
 the third shaft had been emptied and illuminated with many 
 hundred candles, so that it looked like an enchanted cavern. 
 
 In the gardens, fragrant with blossoming lilac, there were 
 exhibited elaborate plans, giving a bird's-eye view of the 
 reservoirs and showing the method of conducting the water 
 to Munich. Glasses of the fresh, clear water were placed on 
 a large table, and we have it on the authority of the Munich 
 press that though the Germans did not care for this beverage, 
 the Englishmen sampled it diligently and praised its purity 
 and agreeable taste. 
 
 107
 
 io8 The Munich Water Supply- 
 
 After this inspection of the upper reservoirs, the party 
 went on in the special train, through fields brilliant with yellow 
 and crimson flowers, past Holzkirchen on the Schliersee line 
 to Thalham. 
 
 Here the city of Munich had provided a sumptuous luncheon, 
 which was served by waitresses dressed in the picturesque 
 garb of the Bavarian Highlands. 
 
 From these delights the party had to tear themselves away 
 on being reminded that they had to walk to the neighbouring 
 Gotzingen Springs. One of the conduits which carries the 
 water down, close to the roaring Mangfall, was reached by one 
 of the pretty woodland paths which are laid out everywhere 
 in connection with the Municipal Water Works. The conduit 
 was open, and was illuminated by candles for about lOO metres 
 up to the water-carrying layer. The mountain water rushed 
 down, clear as crystal, through the natural filter of quaternary 
 gravel layers. 
 
 Here Dr. Singer, Director of the Municipal Statistical 
 Department, lectured in English on the water supply of Munich. 
 He stated that it was the cheapest in Germany, i,ooo litres 
 costing only 5 pfennige, and that it was the purest water that 
 could be imagined. The city derives yearly a net profit of 
 M, 640,000 from the Water Works. 
 
 The party then continued through one of the principal 
 feeding canals which had been emptied under the bed of the 
 Mangfall to the great collecting basins at the end of the Mang- 
 fall Valley district. 
 
 The special train then conveyed the visitors to Oberwarngau, 
 where carriages were waiting for the drive to the Taubenberg, 
 which was reached at 2 p.m. A great crowd of people were 
 waiting for the English visitors and their Munich friends, 
 and a " rustic meal " of five courses had been prepared for 
 them.
 
 and the Bavarian Highlands 109 
 
 After the first course, Herr Wolzl, Member of the Reichstag 
 and Magisterial Councillor, rose and made the following speech : 
 
 " God greet you all ! With this rustic greeting I welcome 
 you to the Taubenberg, and if it seems that by making this 
 excursion you have wandered from your aim, which was to 
 study the Water Works of the city, I can assure you that this 
 is not at all the case, for the Taubenberg is the centre of the 
 district which supplies Munich with water. . . , But the 
 Taubenberg is not only the centre of the reservoirs : it is a place 
 of recreation which the Munich Municipality has erected on its 
 own land. From this mountain you can look down on the 
 valley from almost all sides and enjoy our lovely Bavarian 
 landscape. Soon you will not be strangers to us any more, 
 and if up to the present it was water that separated us, we can 
 say here that it is water which has brought us together. Still, 
 there is something better than water, the drink of which our 
 German poet Scheffel knows how to sing so beautifully. Let 
 us pledge each other in this wine that we will faithfully keep 
 the friendship which we have formed to-day, and that we will 
 do everything to confirm it, and to win others over to this 
 union." 
 
 The speech was received with great applause, and was 
 replied to by Alderman Adnitt, Ex-Mayor of Northampton, 
 in a brief but cordial speech, as follows : 
 
 " Yes, we will keep the friendship which we have here 
 formed, and after our return we shall regard it as our most 
 sacred duty to win new members for this union. We shall 
 tell them of the magnificent industrial undertakings that we 
 have seen in Germany, and especially in Munich, and we shall 
 tell them of the festive receptions with which you have 
 honoured us, and which will take their place among the most 
 cherished memories of our lives. We will do everything pos- 
 sible to remove the late misunderstandings between Germany
 
 no The Munich Water Supply 
 
 and England, so that the greatest crime which history could 
 know — a war between Germany and England — may become 
 an impossibility." 
 
 No sooner had the speaker finished than all present leaped 
 to their feet, shouting — " Germany and England ! Hip, hip, 
 hurrah ! " The conventional foreign idea of " the stiff Eng- 
 lishman " smust have received a shock on the Taubenberg 
 from which it will hardly recover. For when a bevy of youths 
 and girls in Bavarian peasant costume arrived and began to 
 dance the national " shoe dance," the delight of the visitors 
 knew no bounds, and some of the grave councillors were seen 
 footing it merrily with the dancers. 
 
 After this demonstration they drove away cheering, and 
 joined the train at Oberwarngau. 
 
 The special train brought back the guests at the rate of 
 sixty miles an hour to Grosshesselhohe, and from thence they 
 vrere taken to Castle Schwaneck near Pullach, for the evening 
 jHe arranged by the owner of the castle, Kommerzienrat 
 Heilmann. 
 
 The guests were much impressed by the beautiful situation 
 of the castle and the lovely view of the Isar Valley. After tea 
 had been drunk on the terrace, dinner was announced, and 
 the guests descended to the Knights' Hall. 
 
 The first toast was proposed by Herr Heilmann, who told 
 his guests that Castle Schwaneck had formerly belonged to an 
 English lady. Mr. Reynolds, in reply, expressed the hearty 
 thanks of himself and his fellow travellers for the splendid 
 reception that had been accorded to them. Struggling with 
 his emotion he said, " The language of Shakespeare is not rich 
 enough to express the gratitude that I feel towards Munich." 
 
 Biirgermeister von Borscht then told the guests in a graceful 
 speech how happy the city of Munich was to be so splendidly 
 represented by one of her citizens. He had wished the visitors
 
 and the Bavarian Highlands m 
 
 from England to have the opportunity of seeing a German 
 home, and as his own house was not large enough to receive 
 so many guests, he had asked Kommerzienrat Heilmann to 
 accept the honour. 
 
 Herr Heilmann replied, and stated in the course of his 
 speech that he had sent some of his children to England that 
 they might get to know the English language and customs. 
 
 " Do the same with your children " (he said), " and many 
 prejudices which the two nations entertain about each other 
 will be destroyed." 
 
 Coffee was served in the garden. The moon had broken 
 through the clouds and showed the 'guests the Isar Valley 
 sleeping in the glory of summer moonlight. Castle Schwaneck 
 and its gardens were brilliantly illuminated, and appeared to 
 the guests, as they drove about midnight to the station at 
 Pullach, like a fairy picture in the red glow of Bengal fires. 
 
 The guests returned to Munich in a special train placed at 
 their disposal by the local railway company and decorated with 
 the British colours. After a fifteen-hours' day, every minute 
 of which had been rich with interesting and valuable impres- 
 sions, they were glad to retire to rest and prepare for the 
 demands of the morrow. 
 
 Visit to the Bavarian Highlands 
 
 The British Committee left the Starnberger Summer Station 
 at 9.37 a.m. by special train, and arrived in Garmisch at 11.58. 
 The guests were welcomed at the station by the President of 
 the Badersee Company, and by distinguished citizens of 
 Garmisch, including Frh. von Ebner-Eschenbach, Herr Byschl, 
 and Herr Zoppritz. The whole town was gay with festive 
 decorations, and to the right and left of the entrance were 
 stationed girls and youths in the costume of the Bavarian 
 Highlands, who strewed flowers before the visitors.
 
 112 The Munich Water Supply 
 
 On the road to the Badersee, the visitors were hailed by 
 peasant boys in Bavarian costume, who received them with 
 cheerful jodeling. Lunch was provided at the hotel on the 
 shores of the exquisite little lake on whose green waters the 
 huge Zugspitze looks down. They then went on to the Risser- 
 see Lake, a glorious drive through the mountains, the plea- 
 sure of which was somewhat marred by the uncertainty of 
 the weather. This, however, did not affect the jollity of the 
 company that gathered for dinner in the Hotel Rissersee, 
 where pledges of good fellowship were exchanged, and the 
 Madl Company from Garmisch delighted the visitors by their 
 excellent performances of the national dances and songs. 
 
 A great crowd had assembled at the railway station to see 
 the visitors off from Garmisch, and the Mayor of Barrow-in- 
 Furness, speaking in German, expressed the hearty thanks of 
 the Englishmen to the people of the Bavarian Highlands for 
 their hospitality. 
 
 When the train moved off there was a storm of cheering, 
 hands and handkerchiefs were waved, and a shower of lilac 
 blossoms descended on the departing guests. The return to 
 town was cheered by hearty chorus singing on the part of the 
 Munich gentlemen, led by Biirgermeister Dr. von Borscht, 
 while the painter Herr Quidinus illustrated to the guests the 
 capacities of a German bass voice. 
 
 Farewell to Munich 
 
 If any of the delegates had felt it an effort to rise between 
 four and five a.m. after the fatigue and excitement of our 
 expedition to the Bavarian Highlands, to witness the great 
 Corpus Christi procession, they must surely have felt amply 
 repaid by the unique spectacle of which they were witnesses. 
 
 At seven o'clock in the morning they stood on the balcony
 
 and the Bavarian Highlands 1 1 3 
 
 of the Rathaus which looks out on the immense square, and 
 watched the procession slowly and solemnly defiling into the 
 enclosure, which was guarded by soldiers. We beheld a splendid 
 Church ceremony which was also a State function, at which 
 all the great officials took a prominent part. The route for 
 two miles of its length was lined by troops, and military' music 
 accompanied the cortege. 
 
 The ecclesiastical dignitaries came first, the bishops and 
 clergy in gorgeous vestments, with the Host, which was carried 
 under a canopy with banners and lights. Following the long 
 train of priests came the Prince Regent on foot with his son 
 and grandson, and a number of members of the Royal House- 
 hold and Ministers of State in full Court dress and wearing their 
 decorations. The officials of the Corporation followed, wearing 
 their uniforms and orders, and then came the members of the 
 numerous religious orders of Munich, in their habits, white, 
 grey, brown, and black, the University and Polytechnic stu- 
 dents, and a number of school children. The magnificence of 
 the total effect in one of the finest squares in Europe and under 
 a warm May sun was indescribable, and every one felt the 
 solemn impressiveness of the scene when the Host was carried 
 to the altar and Mass was said in the open air, with all the im- 
 pressive accompaniments of the Roman ritual, before the vast 
 multitude which stood around. 
 
 There are now not many cities in Europe where the great 
 Church festivals are celebrated with such a striking accom- 
 paniment of civic pomp and popular enthusiasm. It reminds 
 one that the Bavarians are fervent Catholics and have a 
 natural instinct for pageantry and drama which expresses 
 itself as fully in their religious observances as in the rest of 
 their life. 
 
 Then they inspected the apartments of the Rathaus under 
 the guidance of Professor von Hauberriser, Councillor Schenck, 
 
 8
 
 1 1 4 The Munich Water Supply 
 
 and Dr. Pachmayr, and wrote their names in the Golden Book 
 of the city. 
 
 The Arms Museum was shown to them by the founder, 
 Herr Pierling, and they also saw the great wine-cellars of the 
 Rathaus. 
 
 They then heard a lecture in English from Councillor 
 Schoner on the philanthropic institutions of the city, and 
 on the measures of hygienic and social reform which had been 
 undertaken. Mr. Chiozza-Money, M.P., returned thanks to 
 the lecturer in the name of the English delegation, and ex- 
 pressed the interest which he and his companions felt in the 
 efforts made by the IMunicipality of Munich to deal with the 
 Housing question. 
 
 The guests were then entertained to breakfast by the 
 Municipality, where they were welcomed by Councillor Schenck 
 on behalf of the First Biirgermeister. Lord Lyveden responded 
 with thanks for the magnificent reception given to him and 
 his friends by the city of Munich, and said to all their hosts 
 " Auf Wiedersehen." Professor Dr. Sieper proposed the toast 
 of the fraternally united countries, England and Germany. 
 Other compliments followed, and after a hearty leave-taking 
 the members of the Committee proceeded to the Central Station, 
 which they left at 12.55 P-^i- Councillors Schoner, Schenck, 
 and Pachmayr were at the station to see them off, and they 
 departed impressed and delighted beyond words by their 
 memorable experiences in the capital of Bavaria.
 
 CHAPTER XII 
 THE EDUCATIONAL SYSTEM OF MUNICH 
 
 There was nothing which impressed us more in the course of 
 our journey than the splendid educational establishments of 
 Frankfort and Munich. The able paper by Dr. Ziehen which 
 was read to us at Frankfort depicts the educational policy of 
 a great Prussian city. 
 
 The system of Munich, though on general lines resembling 
 that of Frankfort, differs in certain details. 
 
 The Elementary Schools of Munich retain their children 
 for two years longer than in England, the compulsory legal 
 age being from six to sixteen. 
 
 Permission may be obtained from the Local School Com- 
 mission to replace the attendance at the public schools by 
 private instruction given by properly trained and certificated 
 teachers. 
 
 Munich possesses fifty-two of these Primary Schools, 
 which are not allowed to charge fees. 
 
 It must be remembered that in Germany, generally speak- 
 ing, all classes, from the statesman to the cobbler, send their 
 children to the State schools, and the system of Primary edu- 
 cation is thus the same for all. There are of course private 
 schools to which parents may send their children at their own 
 expense, but it is necessary that these should reach the same 
 standard as the public schools. 
 
 Great pains are taken to secure the best curriculum, the 
 
 115
 
 ii6 The Educational System of Munich 
 
 best methods of instruction, and the best materials for teaching. 
 The pay and position of the teacher have been raised so as to 
 secure a good class of men, while the schools and pupils are 
 examined by medical specialists with a view to their being in 
 the best condition demanded by modern hygienic science. 
 To secure this end, the city expends some millions of marks 
 annually. 
 
 The models of new school buildings of Munich were pro- 
 nounced to be the finest sent in at the German Municipal 
 Exhibition of Dresden. Their equipment includes among 
 other things a gymnasium for both girls and boys, a shower 
 bath, workshops for metal and wood work, drawing class- 
 rooms, a cookery school, waiting rooms in which the children 
 sit before and after they go to their classes, a soup kitchen 
 and a dining-room, as well as two rooms in which children 
 who have not reached the school age may be instructed on 
 Kindergarten lines. 
 
 They also provide a spacious playground with gymnastic 
 appliances, a kitchen garden which assists to provide the vege- 
 tables needed for the cookery school, a school garden for bo- 
 tanical instruction, and finally a covered playground and hall 
 for the Kindergarten children. 
 
 Each classroom is at least 30 feet long by 21 feet broad 
 by 12 feet high, and is provided with Rettig's patent benches. 
 The rooms are heated with low-pressure steam, supplied with 
 fresh air warmed before it is admitted to the room, while the 
 foul air is drawn off by ventilators in the roof. The floors 
 are covered with linoleum. 
 
 Under the energetic direction of the chief educational 
 authority. Dr. Kerchensteiner, the Primary and Continuation 
 Schools of the city have been developed on entirely new lines. 
 In the boys' schools a certain amount of instruction is given, 
 beginning with the eighth class, in wood and metal work, while
 
 Continuation Schools 1 1 7 
 
 the girls begin their housekeeping and domestic economy 
 lessons at about the same time. 
 
 The boys who are to proceed to the Continuation Schools 
 are classified according to their future occupations for which 
 Continuation Schools have been erected, and which include 
 arithmetic, bookkeeping, miscellaneous business methods, and 
 practical workshop training. New Continuation Schools have 
 been erected in the Liebherrstrasse and Pranckstrasse, and 
 branch establishments are being built at the Elisabethplatz 
 and the Gotzingerplatz, and in the Rosenthal. All these 
 training workshops have been fitted up with the latest patterns 
 of tools and machines, and it has been said that the arrange- 
 ments made for Technical Education in Munich might serve 
 as models for any modern civilized State. The actual workshop 
 instruction, in which drawing of plans and working from models 
 are included, is given by master mechanics. From these appren- 
 tice schools pupils can pass on to the Assistants' and Masters' 
 Divisions, which are carried on in the Industrial Schools in the 
 Westenriederstrasse, in the Luisenstrasse, and in the Municipal 
 School of Painting in the Herrenstrasse. 
 
 All boys who are passing out of the seventh class of the 
 Primary Schools are obliged to spend three years at a Continua- 
 tion School. Those who go through the eighth class of the 
 Primary School need only spend one year in the Continuation 
 School. 
 
 Girls are obliged to attend a Continuation course in com- 
 mercial studies or housekeeping on Sundays for three years 
 after leaving the Primary School, but in the case of girls who 
 are prevented by business from doing this, there is a course 
 arranged for Wednesday afternoons. They may also attend 
 a Girls' Continuation School regularly through the week, but 
 this is optional. 
 
 Instruction in housekeeping, cookery, needlework, and
 
 ii8 The Educational System of Munich 
 
 drawing is compulsory in the eighth class of the Girls' Primary 
 Schools and in the Girls' Continuation Schools, but instruction 
 in French is optional. 
 
 Assistants in various trades who are too old for the ordinary 
 Continuation Schools can take special courses arranged for 
 them, or go to the Municipal Technical Schools, in which there 
 are also courses for master workmen. 
 
 Munich is particularly rich in institutions for Secondary 
 Education. There are no less than five Gymnasia, which cor- 
 respond to English public schools, four Real Gymnasia, 
 which give an education corresponding to that given in the 
 modern side of an English public school, and the Realschulen. 
 There are also excellent Technical Schools. Munich also pos- 
 sesses a school for Building, a school for Applied Art, a Muni- 
 cipal Commercial Academy for boys, and a Training College for 
 women teachers of trades and occupations, another for female 
 teachers, a Blind Asylum and Deaf and Dumb Institute, 
 and an Institute for the training of crippled children. There 
 are two private schools for brewing, in addition to the State 
 school for brewing, which is situated about an hour's journey 
 from Munich. 
 
 At the head of the institutions for the education of girls 
 stand the Municipal High Schools, the Royal Max-Joseph Foun- 
 dation, the Munchen-Nymphenburg Institution for Female 
 Education, and the school of the Englischen Fraulein at Perg- 
 am-Laim. There are also a large number of excellent and 
 successful private schools for girls. 
 
 Among the Trade Schools and Technical Institutions should 
 be mentioned the Photographic Institute, the Women's Division 
 of the School of Applied Art, the School for Teaching House- 
 work, the Women's School of Agriculture. 
 
 We ought not to omit mention of the scientific lectures and 
 readings instituted by the association for popular High School
 
 Art and Music 119 
 
 courses and the Society for Popular Hygiene ; and also the 
 courses of education for girls and women and the private 
 gymnasium instruction for girls which is carried on by the 
 Association for Popular Education and has received the 
 support of the State. Since the winter session of 1903-4, 
 women who can produce certificates equal in value to the 
 matriculation examination at the University may become 
 matriculated students at the University. Moreover, since 
 1905-6 women students are permitted to attend the lectures 
 at the Royal Polytechnic. 
 
 It is needless to say, in view of the world-wide reputation 
 of Munich as an art centre, that there are numerous private 
 schools of painting, drawing, and sculpture in addition to the 
 Academy of Fine Arts. 
 
 The Academy is open to men, either Germans or foreigners, 
 who have completed their eighteenth and not exceeded their 
 thirtieth year. Students must show the necessary test works 
 and educational certificates. One year's probation is required, 
 and the course lasts for seven years. 
 
 There is also the Academy of Music in the Odeonsplatz, 
 which provides an education in every branch of music and is 
 open to natives and foreigners without distinction of sex. 
 It is under the direction of the famous conductor, Herr Felix 
 Mottl. 
 
 Space fails to dwell] on' the old and famous University, 
 which ranks as the second in Germany in point of numbers, 
 having had no less than 4,609 students enrolled on its books 
 in the winter session of 1903-4. The State has recently 
 devoted large sums to the erection of additional buildings. 
 
 There are also an excellent Polytechnic, one of the most 
 famous in the world, and an excellent Veterinary College. We 
 must not omit the great Royal and State Library, which is the 
 largest in the world outside of London and Paris, and contains
 
 I20 The Educational System of Munich 
 
 over 900,000 volumes and 40,000 manuscripts, some of which 
 are priceless and unique. 
 
 Munich also possesses several institutions for Military 
 education, such as the Military Academy, the Artillery and 
 Engineering School, the Military School, Cadet Corps, and 
 Riding School, while there is a School for Non-commissioned 
 Officers in the neighbourhood of Bruck. There are also institu- 
 tions which prepare boys for the Naval Service.
 
 CHAPTER XIII 
 
 HEIDELBERG-MANNHEIM-KONIGSWINTER- 
 
 COLOGNE 
 
 On May 31st, the members of the British Municipal Committee 
 arrived at the beautiful city of Heidelberg, and were met at 
 the railway station by four representatives of the Municipality, 
 Councillors Ellmer, Leymann, Spitzer and Winter, and by the 
 University Professors Dr. Hoops and Dr. Holsberg. 
 
 The guests were first of all conducted to the two hotels 
 where rooms had been reserved for them, the Europaischerhof 
 and the Grand Hotel. After this there was time for a drive 
 round the city before the State Banquet in the Schloss Hotel, 
 which began at 8.30. 
 
 The banqueting room was tastefully decorated and brilliant 
 with uniforms. There were present, in addition to the repre- 
 sentatives of the Municipality, Prince Wilhelm of Sachsen 
 Weimar, Ober-Regierungsrat Dr. Becker, and the Pro-Rector 
 of the University, Geheimer Hofrat Dr. Jellinek. Selections 
 from the works of English composers were played by the 
 Municipal Orchestra during the evening, and the graceful 
 compliment involved was fully appreciated. 
 
 Ober-biirgermeister Dr. Wilckens proposed the first toast 
 in the following terms : 
 
 " I greet our dear and valued friends from England, who 
 have come to Germany for the study of Municipal Institutions, 
 most heartily in the name of the town, and I wish to express 
 our sincere gratitude and satisfaction that Heidelberg in 
 
 121
 
 1 2 2 Heidelberg 
 
 particular should have the honour of this visit. It is true we 
 cannot draw their attention to magnificent municipal institu- 
 tions such as Frankfort, Nuremberg, or Munich are able to 
 show. But we may nevertheless claim that, if our town is 
 small in proportion, it is progressive in its development, and 
 that the Municipality endeavours to keep pace with this de- 
 velopment. We have one advantage over other towns which 
 has always made a deep impression on Englishmen, and that 
 is the attractive situation of the town, the charm of its sur- 
 roundings, and especially the pearl of the Neckar Valley, the 
 famous Heidelberg Castle. From the glorious week in the 
 June of 1613 when Elizabeth Stuart, the youthful bride of 
 the ' Winter King ' of Bohemia, Frederick V., Elector Palatine 
 of the Rhine, entered here to spend a short period of happiness 
 with him, up to the day, in the 'sixties of last century, when 
 the present king Edward VII. and the Danish princess Alex- 
 andra met here as a betrothed couple, and the time, two 
 decades later, when the sons of the English king were sent here 
 to study, — these advantages of Heidelberg have always been 
 recognized by the English, and we are glad to have had for 
 a long while a small English colony in our town. The relations 
 between the citizens of the great British Empire and ourselves 
 have thereby been made easy and have always been cordial. 
 I can only hope that to-day's visit of our highly honoured 
 guests from England will strengthen and vivify the old good 
 relations between the members of both nations. But I hope 
 also it will be a proof that the two nations wish to live and 
 work in peace and amity. . . . That the two illustrious monarchs 
 who guard the destinies of the two great empires with a firm 
 and sure hand. King Edward VII. and the Emperor William 
 II., have this object in hand we all know. But we know also 
 that the illustrious ruler of Baden, the Grand Duke Ferdinand, 
 the venerable monarch who last year, in enviable health and
 
 (n>itxfl^ir^^^^^<^-*t'^'-'i^7^y^^ 
 
 vfef^ 
 
 
 DR. WlLCKliNS, OBEK-BUKr.EKMlilSlKR OK lltilUliUBERC..
 
 speech of Dr. Wilckens 123 
 
 strength, celebrated his eightieth birthday and his golden 
 wedding, and who has now ruled for fifty-five years in our 
 smaller fatherland with wisdom and justice, has always been 
 an active supporter of these aspirations, and I think therefore 
 that I may be certain of your concurrence if I begin the toasts 
 by proposing, ' His Majesty King Edward VII. of England, the 
 German Emperor William II., and H.R.H. the Grand Duke 
 Frederick of Baden.' " 
 
 When the enthusiastic hurrahs and the strains of the Na- 
 tional Anthem had ceased, the Ober-biirgermeister added : 
 
 " Permit me to add to the toast I have just proposed 
 another, that of our dear guests. We thank you, highly 
 honoured gentlemen from England, most heartily that you 
 have come to us, and we wish you a very pleasant time in 
 Heidelberg. Unfortunately your stay will be very short. 
 But we will make it our business to help you to make the 
 best of the few hours you are spending among us, so that your 
 impressions of Heidelberg may not be superficial. For the 
 rest, we hope you will put up with what a smaller town can 
 offer you, and we welcome you most heartily to our old city of 
 the Muses." 
 
 Director Dr. Holzberg referred to the number of young 
 Englishmen who had received their education at Heidelberg, 
 and declared, in proposing the toast of the Municipal Com- 
 mittee, coupled with the name of the President, Lord Lyveden, 
 that international intercourse was a sure guarantee of peace. 
 
 Lord Lyveden responded, and made a humorous allusion 
 to the custom of duelling among the German students. " We 
 hope (he said) that the fact that serious duels in this and other 
 countries are becoming more and more rare is one of the many 
 signs that, in spite of exaggerated national armaments, we are 
 approaching a period of untroubled peace for the whole world. 
 We hope the day is not far distant when the nations will avoid
 
 124 Hcidelbergf 
 
 serious damage in their encounters with the same success as 
 do the Heidelberg students in their duels to-day." 
 
 The Pro-Rector of the University, Dr. Jellinek, remarked 
 on the fact that while in the past England had to some extent 
 stood aloof from the movement of ideas on the Continent and 
 had worked out her destiny independently, this isolation was 
 to a great extent breaking down. In the Middle Ages the 
 nations were connected by their Universities. Bologna and 
 Paris, Oxford and Cambridge, Prague and Heidelberg, founded 
 more than half a millennium ago that unity of science which 
 unites nations in one brotherhood. To-day German science 
 remains universal in its scope. Germany has given close 
 investigation to the political structures of two nations — Rome 
 and England. Rome stood for the Impenum, the idea of 
 Government, England for Libertas, political liberty. The ideal 
 of Rome was rule, of England freedom. But the German 
 idea of freedom excludes every wanton war waged for the pur- 
 pose of aggression. If England is not to become unfaithful 
 to her great past, she must entertain peaceful sentiments, 
 especially towards kindred peoples. The leadership of the 
 world to-day belongs to the Germanic peoples, and Germany, 
 England and America to-day are called upon to create the 
 German period in the world's history. The towns are the 
 bearers of civilizing ideas, since civilization is simply municipal 
 culture, the object of which is to produce the civis, the citizen, 
 not the pugnacious soldier. 
 
 The toast of the City and University of Heidelberg was 
 proposed by Sir John Gorst, who acknowledged the great debt 
 which English culture owes to the German Universities. He 
 concluded by singing the first verse of " Alt Heidelberg, du 
 feine," after which the remaining verses of Scheffel's famous 
 song were enthusiastically sung by hosts and guests together. 
 
 Dr. Lunn then proposed the toast of the Ober-biirgermeister
 
 A Tour of the Town 125 
 
 and His Magnificence the Pro-Rector. He mentioned that 
 the Rhodes Scholarships had been the means of bringing many 
 Germans to study at Oxford. The object of the exchange of 
 visits which their Committee had organized was to promote 
 such a sense of brotherhness that war would become impossible. 
 The contention that war was inevitable was the most foolish 
 of all heresies. Every member of the Committee ought to 
 do all in his power to refute this falsehood and to prevent the 
 prophets of evil from triumphing. 
 
 Professor Hoops referred to the immense expansion of 
 Germany within the last few decades, but dwelt on the peaceful 
 intentions of the German people. 
 
 The evening was far advanced when the last English guests, 
 who had held on with an endurance which their hosts pro- 
 nounced " truly Germanic " in spite of their tiring journey from 
 Munich, returned to their hotels in the carriages which the 
 city had placed at their disposal. 
 
 The following morning at 9.30 the visitors started for a 
 walk round the town. They first visited the Hallen Swimming 
 Baths, where they were received by Director Kukuck and 
 Treasurer Burgin. 
 
 The fine modern Town Hall on the banks of the Neckar was 
 much admired by the visitors. They were received and shown 
 over the building by Councillor Roesler. They then proceeded 
 to the University Library. 
 
 The University of Heidelberg is the oldest in Central 
 Europe, after those of Prague and Vienna. It was founded 
 by Elector Ruprecht I. in 1386, and attained its period of 
 greatest prosperity at the period of the Reformation, when 
 it was the chief Protestant seat of learning in Germany. From 
 it was issued the celebrated " Heidelberg Confession." It 
 suffered much during the terrible troubles of the Thirty 
 Years' War and the devastation of the Palatinate bv the
 
 1 26 Heidelberg: 
 
 French under Louis XIV, In 1693 the city was so thoroughly 
 devastated by the French that only one house, now used as 
 an inn, was left standing. The University was reconstituted 
 by the Elector Charles Frederick of Baden in 1804, and took 
 on a new lease of life. It is now resorted to not only by 
 students from all parts of Germany, but by large numbers of 
 English and Americans. 
 
 The Library is a splendid collection, containing nearly half 
 a million volumes and a large number of valuable manuscripts. 
 
 After visiting the Library, members drove to the Castle, 
 the largest mediaeval castle in Germany, and one of the most 
 beautiful in Europe. It is now to a great extent in ruins. 
 The ancient ivy-clad ramparts, half buried in magnificent 
 woods, look down on the city and the verdant plain of the 
 Neckar. It was founded in the 13th century by the Count 
 Palatine Rudolph I., rebuilt a hundred years later, and 
 enlarged by subsequent Electors. 
 
 The Otto Heinrichs-Bau, built in 1556, is a splendid example 
 of the early Renaissance style, with a richly decorated fagade, 
 adorned with statues by Colins, the sculptor of Malines. The 
 Friedrichs-Bau, erected in 1901-7, is less richly decorated, but 
 perhaps more imposing in general effect. 
 
 The cellar contains the famous Tun of Heidelberg, a huge 
 cask capable of holding 49,000 gallons. The present tun, 
 which was made in 175 1, is fourth in the succession, the first 
 having been made in 1591, the second in 1662, and the third 
 in 1728 by order of successive Electors. 
 
 Memorials of the young English princess who made her 
 home for a short time in Heidelberg are to be found in the 
 Elisabeth-Pforte, erected by the Elector Frederick V. in honour 
 of his consort, and in the Englische-Bau or Elisabeth-Bau, 
 built at the same period.
 
 Mannheim 127 
 
 MANNHEIM AND LUDWIGSHAFEN 
 
 From the historical associations of Heidelberg the Muni- 
 cipal delegates had to hurry away at 12.28 p.m. to busy Mann- 
 heim, to which they made a flying visit by invitation of the 
 Municipality. 
 
 Mannheim and its twin-town Ludwigshafen on the opposite 
 bank of the Rhine, constitute the most important commercial 
 centre of the Upper Rhineland. Mannheim is the largest in- 
 land port of Europe, and possesses enormous municipal and 
 State docks. It is said to be the most regularly built town 
 in Germany, It was founded in 1606 by the Elector Palatine 
 Frederick IV., and in 1721 became the official residence of the 
 Electors. The Grand Ducal palace contains an interesting 
 collection of pictures and antiquities, and the Theatre is one 
 of the best in South Germany. 
 
 The busy centre of Ludwigshafen is practically a modem 
 creation, having been begun in the middle of last century as a 
 transpontine suburb of Mannheim. It is now an important 
 centre of the manufacture of aniline dyes, a manufacture 
 which has been wrested from England by the superiority of 
 German technical education. 
 
 The growth of this* industry is one of the stock instances 
 of the practical value of scientific research, as until an English 
 chemist, the late Sir William Perkin, a valued friend of the 
 writer's, discovered the value of coal-tar products, they were 
 practically wasted. The value of the dyes manufactured from 
 coal tar in Germany is now estimated at about £12,254,900, 
 and the Badische Anilin und Soda Fabrikat at Ludwigshafen 
 exports three-fourths of its dyes to foreign countries. 
 
 This great firm employs about 7,400 persons, inckiding 
 chemists and other officials. When the firm was founded in 
 1865, the number of hands employed averaged thirty.
 
 128 Mannheim 
 
 The firm is honourably distinguished by the care taken of 
 the workpeople. The sanitary precautions are very rigid 
 and strictly carried out. Every employee is required to wash 
 thoroughly before leaving the works, and for this purpose 
 45 large rooms with the necessary appliances are provided. 
 Each workman employed in dye-making has a special place 
 where he can change his clothes and hang them up. There 
 is no charge for the use of the baths, and towels and soap 
 are provided gratis. 
 
 The Housing Scheme provided by the firm is of great in- 
 terest, and may be compared with similar enterprises in Eng- 
 land. They have erected 146 blocks of buildings, accommo- 
 dating 552 families or 3,000 persons. Each house stands alone, 
 surrounded by a garden, and is divided into four tenements. 
 Every tenement has a separate entrance and a separate garden 
 plot attached to it. 
 
 The workmen's flats consist of two good-sized rooms, a 
 smaller room, a kitchen, and two cellars, and the rent is is. g^d. 
 per week or £4. 12s. a year. This rent is about one-third of 
 what is charged in the town. The cost of erecting these blocks 
 amounted to ;^i34,8o4, and the scheme was adopted by the 
 firm to attach a steady class of men to the works. 
 
 The firm have also established a fund for Insurance against 
 Sickness, to which the workpeople contribute. The fund 
 renders assistance during 26 weeks of illness, and those members 
 whose wages do not exceed five shillings per day pay 3f per 
 cent, of their wages to it. At the end of 1905 the number of 
 members of the fund was 7,240. Medical assistance is given 
 free of charge in case of sickness, and a sanatorium is maintained 
 by the firm for tuberculous patients. 
 
 A Savings Bank has also been established, receiving de- 
 posits up to £50 in a year and a total of £250. The firm 
 gives its own security for the deposits. At the end of 1905
 
 inckk C. A. NIESSKN, C.V.O., H.li.M. CONSUL AT COLOGNE.
 
 fan ^<6^ v^y^.'^ 
 
 POLH
 
 K onigswinter 129 
 
 there were 1,960 deposits, and a total sum deposited of 
 £70.916. 
 
 It is not surprising to learn that disputes between employers 
 and employed are rare at Ludwigshafen, and that the need 
 of an Arbitration Board has not hitherto been felt. 
 
 KONIGSWINTER 
 
 On Saturday morning the visitors said a regretful good-bye 
 to beautiful Heidelberg and set off for Konigswinter, where 
 Consul Niessen extended to them once more his generous 
 hospitality. After a visit to the Drachenfels, where they 
 took tea, the delegates arrived at the hotel at Konigswinter, 
 where they were entertained at a banquet given by Consul 
 Niessen. There were present among others, Herren Schmidt 
 of Cologne and Kieschke of Essen, representing the railway 
 world. Post Office Director Kriesche of Cologne, Biirgermeisters 
 Farwick and Laue of Cologne, the Commandant of the 
 Fortress, Major Keppler, and Biirgermeister Kreitz of Konigs- 
 winter. 
 
 Consul Niessen welcomed the guests and expressed the hope 
 that they had not only increased by their visit their know- 
 ledge of German municipal institutions, but had also become 
 convinced that Germany was animated throughout by a 
 friendly spirit towards England. He closed his speech with 
 the aspiration that the Rhine, which had for so long served the 
 purposes of commerce between the nations, might become the 
 bond of a lasting peace between them. 
 
 The same idea was expressed in all the English speeches, 
 among which should be mentioned that of Sir John Gorst, who, 
 referring to the social and industrial progress of Germany, 
 emphasized the point that England had no reason to be jealous 
 of or concerned at these successes, and that Germany's indus- 
 
 9
 
 ^3o Cologne 
 
 trial development was an advantage to England in view of 
 the close connection between the countries. Biirgermeister 
 Kreitz voiced the welcome of the town of Konigswinter. 
 
 After the banquet the Copsul arranged a most charming fete 
 on the Rhine, during which the town of Konigswinter and the 
 heights of the Drachenfels and the Petersburg were illuminated 
 with coloured lights. A fleet of illuminated boats sailed up and 
 down the river, accompanied by the strains of music and the 
 songs of two choirs which were on board one of the boats. The 
 fairy-like beauty of the scene will long dwell in the memories of 
 those who beheld it. 
 
 COLOGNE 
 
 The last halt of the delegates was made at Cologne, where 
 they were the guests of the English Club. Sir John Gorst 
 was formally received as an honorary member, amid the ap- 
 plause of the assembled company. In his speech of welcome, 
 Herr Franz Richrath rightly emphasized the important part 
 which had been played by the English Club at Cologne in 
 bringing about the present improved understanding between 
 England and Germany. Herr Farwick pointed out in an 
 interesting speech that the development of German municipal 
 institutions had been hindered by conditions with which 
 England, happily for herself, was not familiar. The country 
 had for a long time been sacrificed to political and dynastic 
 struggles, and had been plunged in the direst poverty. It was 
 only within the recollection of men now living that United 
 Germany had been able to co-ordinate her forces and start on 
 her career of industrial progress and expansion. 
 
 Lord Lyveden, Mr. Stapley, and Sir John Gorst also spoke, 
 expressing warm feelings of gratitude for all the kindness and 
 friendship which they had experienced from their German 
 hosts.
 
 Telegram of Thanks to the Emperor 131 
 
 This feeling found further expression in the telegram sent 
 on behalf of the Committee by Lord Lyveden, Sir John Gorst, 
 and Dr. Lunn, from Konigswinter to the Kaiser in Potsdam. 
 It ran as follows : 
 
 " The British Committee for the Study of Foreign Municipal 
 Institutions, on the last day of their visit to Germany, resting 
 for an evening at Konigswinter, desire with all respect to thank 
 your Majesty and the German nation for all the many kind- 
 nesses that they have received. They trust that the result 
 of their studies will be of benefit to the cities to which they 
 belong, and that the kind words which have greeted them in 
 every city may find an echo in the hearts of their countrjnnen, 
 and thus strengthen the bonds which unite the two great 
 branches of the Teutonic peoples."
 
 APPENDIX A 
 
 MEMBERS VHO VISITED SOUTH GERMANY 
 
 IN MAY 1906. 
 
 PRESIDENT : 
 The Lord Lyveden. 
 
 VICE-PRESIDENTS! 
 
 The Right. Hon. Sir John Gorst, Former Minister of Education. 
 Sir Thomas Brooke-Hitching, J. P., Ex-Sheriff of the City of London, Mayor of 
 
 Marylebone. 
 
 TREASURER : 
 A. K. Carlyon, Esq., J. P., D.L., Ex-High Sheriff of the County of Middlesex. 
 
 HON. SECRETARY : 
 Henry S. Lunn, Esq., M.D., J. P. 
 
 PARLIAMENTARY SECRETARIES : 
 
 Percy Alden, Esq., M.P. for Tottenham. , .^vj 
 
 Alderman R. Winfrey, Esq., M.P. for South Norfolk. . .^ 
 
 HONORARY INTERPRETER : 
 A. BUsswEiLER, Esq. 
 
 MEMBERS : 
 
 Alderman F. G. Adnitt, Ex-Mayor of Northampton. 
 
 Samuel Aitken, Esq., Mayor of Gloucester. 
 
 H. M. Barnet, Esq., J. P., Ex-Provost of Kirkcaldy. 
 
 W. J. Basset-Lowke, Esq. 
 
 G. R. Bishop, Esq., Clerk to the Justices, Northampton. 
 
 G. S. Blakeway, Esq., Town Clerk, Gloucester. 
 
 T. F. Butler, Esq., J. P., Mayor of Barrow-in-Furness. 
 
 L. G. Chiozza-Money, Esq., M.P. for Paddington. 
 
 J. Cloudsley, Esq., J. P., Corporation of the City of London. 
 
 H. J. Daniels, Esq., J. P., Ex-Mayor of Stamford. 
 
 T. L. Dodds, Esq., Mayor of Birkenhead. 
 
 E. G. Easton, Esq. 
 
 John Fielding, Esq., Sheriff of Gloucester. 
 
 Francis George, Esq., Town Clerk, Banff. 
 
 J. Griffith, Esq., Town Clerk, Newcastle. 
 
 J. Flinton Harris, Esq. 
 
 Major Hart, J. P., Ex-Mayor of Stamford. 
 
 G. S. Heath, Esq., J. P., Ex-Mayor of Barrow-in-Furness. 
 
 G. Higgs, Esq., J. P., C.C, Ex-Mayor and Deputy Mayor of Stamford. 
 
 Ald?:rman Hepton, Esq., Leeds Town Council. 
 
 Councillor E. Lewis, Ex-.Mayor of Northampton. 
 
 T. H. Lile, Esq., J. P., Corporation of the City of London. 
 
 W. Middlebrook, Esq., Ex-Mayor of Morley. 
 
 H. Ct. Montgomery, Esq., M.P. for Somerset (Bridgewater). 
 
 D. B. MoRKis, Esq., Town Ckrk, Stirling. 
 
 Councillor E. S. M. Perowne, Paddington Boro' Council. 
 
 Councillor W. Reynolds, London County Council. 
 
 C. H. Roche, Esq., Mayor of Daventry. 
 
 Alan Sanders, Esq. 
 
 A. H. Scott, Esq., M.P. for Ashton-under-Lyne. 
 
 Richard Stapley, Esq., Corporation of the City of London. 
 
 George M. Tebbutt, I-^sq., J. P. 
 
 P. A. Thomson, Esq., Town Clerk, Ayr. 
 
 Alderman W. B. Trick. J. P., Mayor of Stoke Newington. 
 
 E. WiNDEATT, Esq., Town Clerk, Tutncs. 
 Alderman E. White, J. P., London County CouncIL 
 
 133
 
 APPENDIX B 
 
 ¥1 ^ ^ 
 THE PROGRAMME OF THE 
 
 Return VI$U 
 
 OF 
 
 GERMAN OBER-BURGERMEISTERS, BURGER- 
 MEISTERS. AND COUNCILLORS TO ENGLAND 
 
 May 14th to May 19th, 1906 
 DAILY ARRANGEMENTS AND PROGRAMME 
 
 Oh arrival, Sunday Evening, May i^^th, Ihe German visitors will be met at St. Paul's Station, 
 
 City of London, and proceed to De Keyset's Royal Hotel, Victoria Embankment, where they 
 
 will be the gitcs.'s of the British Committee until Saturday, May igth, 1906 
 
 MONDAY, May 14th, 1906 
 
 lO.O. Meeting of the Reception Committee at De Keyser's Hotel, 
 to be introduced to the German Visitors. 
 
 10.45. Leave hotel in carriages tor the Guildhall Museum, Library, 
 and Picture Gallery of the Corporation of London. 
 
 12.45. Leave Guildhall for Mercers Hall, Cheapside, where the visitors 
 and Committee will be entertained to Luncheon by the Wor- 
 shipful Master and Wardens of the Ancient Guild of the Mercers 
 Company. 
 3.0. Leave Mercers Hall for drive to the Royal Parks, passing en 
 route the General Post and Telegraph Buildings, New Central 
 Sessions House, through Oxford Street and Portland Place into 
 Regent's Park, thence through Harley Street to Hyde Park, 
 pass Albert Memorial and Albert Hall, and thence by Con- 
 stitution Hill to Buckingham Palace, to St. James's Palace and 
 Park and along the Thames Embankment, arriving at hotel at 
 5 o'clock. 
 
 134
 
 Appendix B i35 
 
 7.15. Banquet at De Keyser's Royal Hotel. Lord Avebury will 
 for preside. The toast of the German Emperor will be proposed by 
 
 7.30. the Right Hon. R. B. Haldane, Secretary of State for War. The 
 Right Hon. the President of the Board of Trade, the Right Hon. 
 the Lord Advocate for Scotland, The Paymaster-General, The 
 First Commissioner of Works, and The Secretary of the Board 
 of Education will be present. The representatives of the 
 German Embassy will also welcome the visitors. 
 
 TUESDAY, MAY 15th, 1906 
 
 lo.o. Leave hotel in carriages to visit the headquarters of the London 
 
 Fire Brigade, Southwark. Demonstration by Firemen. 
 
 11.15. Leave for Hugh Myddelton and Monnow Road Schools, under 
 
 control of the London County Council. 
 12.30. Luncheon at Tribune Newspaper Of&cc by invitation of Mr. 
 Franklin Thomasson, M.P., proprietor. To be followed by a 
 short paper on Trafific and Traction, by Mr. James Dalrymple 
 (Manager, Glasgow Corporation Tramways). 
 3.0. Leave Tribune Office to view Houses of Parliament, after which 
 the visitors will be entertained to Tea on the Terrace by the 
 President (Lord Lyveden). 
 5.0. Visit London County Council Municipal Dwellings, Millbank, 
 afterwards the Generating Station of the Underground Electric 
 Railways Company, Ltd., Chelsea, at the invitation of Edgar 
 Speyer, Esq., Chairman. 
 7.45. Dinner at Savoy Hotel, 8 o'clock, by the invitation of Sir Horace 
 and Lady B. Marshall. Reception, 7.45. 
 
 WEDNESDAY, MAY 16th. 1906 
 
 VISIT TO WINDSOR CASTLE 
 
 by gracious iavitation of 
 
 HIS MAJESTY THE KING 
 
 9.15. Leave hotel for Paddington Station. 
 
 lo.o. Leave Paddington Station by special train. 
 
 10.33. Arrive Windsor. Drive to Mausoleum and Frogmore Gardens. 
 
 12.45. Proceed to Castle. 
 
 i.o. Lunch. After Lunch, view State Apartments and St. George's 
 Memorial Chapel. 
 
 4.25. Leave by special train. 
 
 4.57. Arrive Paddington.
 
 13^ Appendix B 
 
 7.0. Banquet by the Association of Municipal Corporations at the 
 Hotel Cecil, to which the Ober-biirgermeisters and some of the 
 visitors have been invited by the President, Sir Albert Rollit, and 
 the Committee. The Right Hon. Sir Henry Campbell-Banner- 
 man, Prime Minister, will be present. 
 7.0. All the other visitors will drive to the Austrian Exhibition at 
 Earl's Court to Dinner. 
 10.30. Carriages at main entrance. Back to hotel. 
 
 THURSDAY. MAY 17th. 1906 
 
 9.30. Carriages to the terminus of the Baker Street and Waterloo 
 Tube Railway at Kennington, vid Embankment and Westminster 
 Bridge. 
 10.15. Inspect Generating Station. Leave by Tube Railway to Oxford 
 Circus, where change to Central London Tube Railway to 
 Shepherd's Bush. 
 10.45. Alight at Shepherd's Bush and proceed by special tramcars, 
 kindly placed at the service of the visitors by Sir Clifton Robin- 
 son, Chairman of the United Tramways Company, to Central 
 Power Station, arriving at 1 1 o'clock. 
 1 1 .30. Leave Station and proceed vid Brentford, Isleworth, and Twicken- 
 ham to the Mitre Hotel, Hampton Court, arriving 12.30. 
 i.o. Luncheon at the Mitie Hotel, on the invitation of Sir Clifton 
 Robinson. 
 2. ^o. Visit Hampton Court Palace and Gardens (the Palace of Cardinal 
 
 Wolsey). 
 4.0. Return by special trams to Shepherd's Bush, arriving 5.30. 
 Thence by Central Tube Railway to Post Office Station, returning 
 by carriages to hotel. 
 7.30 Dinner at Prince's Restaurant, by the invitation of the Members 
 
 of the Eighty Club. 
 10.45. Reception by Lady Haversharn at 9, Grosvenor Square. 
 
 A.M. 
 
 ii.o. The Ober-biirgermeisters will attend the Annual Meeting of 
 
 the Association of Municipal Corporations at the Mansion House. 
 
 12.15. Leave for Guildhall to be present at Lunch to T.R.H. the 
 
 Prince and Princess of Wales, by invitation of the Corporation 
 
 of London.
 
 Appendix B 137 
 
 FRIDAY. MAY 18th. 1906 
 
 10.0. Visit the new thoroughfares, Kingsway and Aldwych, and 
 
 Kings way Tramway. 
 ii.o. His Majesty the King has been graciously pleased to express 
 
 his desire to receive the Ober-Biirgermeisters and other visitors 
 
 at Buckingham Palace, at 12 o'clock noon. 
 1.30. Luncheon at the Mansion House by invitation of the Right Hon. 
 
 the Lord Mayor. 
 3.0. Drive to hotel. Carriages will be at the disposal of the visitors 
 
 to drive during the afternoon to other ^Municipal Institutions, or 
 
 to Alt Galleries, Shops, or other places of interest. 
 8.0. Gala Performance at the Alhambra Theatre of Varieties, in 
 
 honour of the German Visitors. 
 ii.o. Carriages at Charing Cross Road entrance will drive back to 
 
 hotel. 
 
 SATURDAY. MAY 19th, 1906 
 
 VISIT TO BIRMINGHAM 
 and the Model Village of Bourneville, on the invitation ot 
 GEORGE CADBURY, Esq. 
 
 8.30. Carriages at hotel to drive to railway station en route for Bir- 
 mingham. Train leaves Euston, 9.20. 
 1 1 .30. On arrival at Birmingham the visitors will be welcomed by the 
 Right Hon. the Lord Mayor and Members of the Corporation. 
 Reception at the City Hall, after which the visitors will view 
 several Municipal buildings. 
 
 Leave Birmingham for the Garden Village of Bourneville, where 
 Luncheon will be partaken, after which the visitors will be shown 
 through the model village and its institutions. Leave Bourne- 
 ville for London. Dinner will be served on the train. 
 
 9.45. Arrive at Euston, where carriages will be waiting to convey 
 \isitors to liotel. 
 On arrival at hotel the Committee will bid farewell to the visitors. 
 
 10
 
 GERMAN MUNICIPAL PARTY 
 
 The Ober-burgermeister of Berlin. 
 
 The Ober-burgermeister of Aachen. 
 
 The Ober-burgermeister of Dresden. 
 
 The Ober-burgermeister of Cologne. 
 
 The Ober-Burgermeister of Charlottenburg. 
 
 Herr Dr. von Meister, C.V.O. 
 
 (Regierungs praesident of the Frankfort-Wiesbaden District, Wiesbaden) 
 
 Herr Regierungs-Assessor Dr. Kuester, Ministerium des Innern, Berlin. 
 
 Herr Stadtrat Schaefer, Berlin. 
 
 Herr Stadtrat Bohm, Berlin. 
 
 Herr Stadtrat Manslau, Berlin. 
 
 Herr Stadtrat Selberg, Berlin. 
 
 Herr Stadtrat Dr. Muensterberg, Berlin. 
 
 Herr Stadtrat Alberti, Berlin. 
 
 Herr Stadtrat WeigerT. 
 
 Herr Deputy Staff, Berlin. 
 
 Herr Stadtverordneter Cassell, Berlin. 
 
 Herr Stadtverordneter Rosenow, Berlin. 
 
 Fraulein Kirschner, Berlin. 
 
 Herr Burgermeister Leupold, Dresden. 
 
 Herr Stadtrat Dr. Kretschoner, Dresden. 
 
 Herr Stadtbaurat Erlwein, Dresden. 
 
 Herr Justizrat Dr. Stoeckel, Dresden. 
 
 Frau Justizrat Dr. Stoeckel, Dresden. 
 
 Herr Kommerzienrat Menz, Dresden. 
 
 Frau Kommerzienrat Menz, Dresden. 
 
 Herr Consul Niessen, C.V.O., Cologne. 
 
 Frau Consul Niessen, Cologne. 
 
 Herr Regierungsrat Dr. Zschirnt, Cologne. 
 
 Herr Stadtverordneter Auer, Cologne. 
 Herr Stadtverordneter Thonnissen, Cologne. 
 Herr Stadtverordneter Kyll, Cologne. 
 Herr Franz Richrat, Cologne. 
 
 Frau Richrat, Cologne. 
 
 Herr Beigeordneter Ebbing, Aachen. 
 
 Herr Stadtverordneter Geheimer Kommerzienrat Delius, Aachen. 
 
 Herr Stadtverordneter Kommerzienrat Vossen, Aachen. 
 
 Herr Burgermeister Matting, Charlottenburg. 
 
 Herr Stadtverordneter Vorsteher Rosenberg, Charlottenburg. 
 
 Herr Stadtverordneter Vorsteher Kauffmann, Charlottenburg. 
 
 138
 
 THE RECEPTION COMMITTEE 
 
 ♦The Rt. Hon. Lord Lyveden (President). 
 
 The Rt. Hon. Lord Avebury. 
 
 The Rt. Hon. Sir John Gorst (Vice-President). 
 
 Sir John Ure Primrose, Bart. (Vice-President), Lord Provost of Glasgow. 
 
 Sir William Huggins, K.C.B. (Vice-President), President of the Royal Society. 
 
 •Sir Thomas Brooke-Hitching (Vice-President), Ex-Sherifif of London. 
 
 *J. L. Grossmith, Esq., C.C. (Hon. Treasurer). 
 
 ♦Sir Thomas D. Pile, Bart., J. P., D.L. (Hon. Secretary), Ex-Lord Mayor of Dublin, 
 
 ♦Henry S. Lunn, Esq., M.D., F.R.G.S. (Hon. Secretary). 
 
 The Rt. Hon. 
 The Rt. Hon. 
 The Rt. Hon. 
 The Rt. Hon. 
 Baron Bruno 
 
 Earl of Lonsdale. 
 
 Lord Kinnaird. 
 
 Lord Overtoun. 
 
 Lord Weardale. 
 
 Schroeder. 
 Sir John Brunner, Bart. 
 Sir Horace B. Marshall, LL.D., J.P 
 
 Ex-Sherifi of London. 
 Sir Joseph Sykes Rymer. 
 Sir William Mather. 
 Sir Samuel Montagu, Bart. 
 R. Winfrey, Esq., M.P. 
 ♦John H. Lile, Esq., C.C. 
 ♦A. L. Carlyon, Esq., D.L., 
 High Sheriff of Middlesex. 
 ♦Robert Stapley, Esq., C.C. 
 J. L. Brough, Esq., C.C. 
 C. C. Wakefield, Esq., C.C. 
 G. Frankel, Esq., C.C. 
 C. C. Politzer, Esq., C.C. 
 
 J. L. Sayer, Esq., C.C. 
 
 Mayor of Carnarvon. 
 
 Mayor of Walsall. 
 
 Mayor of Grimsby. 
 
 G. Higgs, Esq., Mayor of Stamford . 
 
 Colonel De Latour. 
 
 Edgar Speyer, Esq. 
 
 Felix Schuster, Esq. 
 
 Felix Moscheles, Esq. 
 
 Alderman Bowers. 
 
 Samuel Rowntree, Esq. 
 
 G. Klein worth, Esq. 
 
 J. Klein WORTH, Esq. 
 
 Robert Donald, Esq. 
 
 J. W. De Keyser, Esq. , 
 
 W. H. Lord, Esq. 
 
 Chas. Waldstein, Esq. 
 
 Lafayette De Freise, Esq. 
 
 Oscar Plautt, Esq. 
 
 Organizing Committee. 
 
 139
 
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