rt W ^^ I. \, , ^^ ACEOSS THE ROCK? KOriv TAINS, NEW YORK TO CALIFO ■•'''"' BY WJI KELJ EICMTFF'^!-PF^'^^-. ^^^m o- -o George Sand Consuelo. 2 Vols. „ Countess of Rudolstadt.<"c?usueio." Charles Rowcroft *Adventures of an Emigrant. Victor Hugo The Slave-King. Marriott Oldfield The Two Friends. Rev. R. CoBBOiiD ... *Historyof Margaret Catchpole. Mary Brunton Discipline. o- -» O Q a THE PARLOUR LIBRARY— Continued. Author of ) "Emilia Wykdham"/ The Previsions of Lady Evelyn. Tales of the Woods and Fields. ,, Emilia Wyndham. „ Tales of First French Revolution. jj Two Old Men's Tales. „ Bellah: a Tale of La Vendee. Miss Austen Mansfield Park. ,j Emma. *> Northanger Abbey, end Persuasion. AViLLIAM CaBLKTON The Black Prophet. „ The Emigrants of Ahadarra. >> Fardorougha the Miser. „ The Tithe Proctor. Gerald Griffin .... The Rivals. »» Tales of the Munster Festivals. »» The Collegians. „ •Poetical Works. Mary Howitt Wood Leighton. ,, Heir of Wast Wayland. Ladv L Olivia. Sir Philip Hetherington. ♦♦ T. C. Grattan Highways and Byways. 2 Vols. »» ♦Agnes de Mansfelt. Fabi^DkKock Andrew the Savoyard. RODOLPH ToPFFEll... The Parsonage. 2 Vols. »» Rosa and Gertrude. „ Tales and Sketches. Leitch Ritchie Schinderhannes. ft Game of Life. Aug. La Fontaine Family Pictures. The O'Hara Family Father Connell. »» The Ghost-Hunter and His Family. >» Crohoore of the Bill-hook. Chateaubriand ... Autobiography. 4 Vols. AV. N. Hancock /Impediments to the Prosperity of ( Jreland. Sir "Walter Scott Poetical Works. G. R. Porter /Popular Fallacies regarding General \ Interests. ■ - - 6 Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2007 with funding from Microsoft Corporation http://www.archive.org/detaifs/acrossrockymountOOkellrich THE BOOKCASE, ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. ACROSS HOCKY MOUNTAINS, NEW YORK TO CAIIFOENIA: A VISIT TO THE CELEBRATED MORMON COLONY, AT THE GREAT SALT LAKE. BY WILLIAM KELLY, ESQ. Of TEUi ^r^ LONDON: SIMMS AND M'INTYRE, PATERNOSTER ROW; AND DONEGALL STREET, BELFAST. 1852. F 593 ^s^sr if^/c PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. It was a most gratifying recompense for tlie toils and sufferings of my arduous journey, to learn, on its first ap- pearance in print, that the public vouchsafed an anxious interest in my wild and lonely wanderings; and it now affords a consolatoiy balm to the aching consequences which that journey has entailed on me, to find that the scenes and adventures I attempted to pourtray, still retain some little charm, faded though it be, sufficient to wairant me in telling my story over again; or, in the language of the stage, of modestly responding to the encore which has agi'eeably penetrated to my quiet retreat. I trust I may be excused while putting forth tliis new edition of my "Excm-sion," if I take pride and credit for the truth and accm-acy of the anticipated speculations in which I ventured to indulge in my former publication, re- specting the settlement of California, its capabilities for agriculture, its trade and commerce, and more particularly its vast mineral wealth. I originally stated my conviction that tlie gold found in the placer diggings were the mere crumbs of volcanoism, and that the great deposits of the precious metals were to be found deep in the bowels of the eartli, and in the stu- pendous quartz stratifications, but only to be approached by the union of science and capital; and now, after a lapse Vi PREFACE. of two years since my visit to the mines, my predictions are in com'se of being fully verified. The amomit of the golden harvest has been more than quadrupled, chiefly through the agency of wealth and science, as applied to the crush- ing of quartz and the sinking of deep shafts in the auri- ferous districts. Several English companies have been organized for this purpose; and I would say to them, let them be of good cheer: their mining investments will fructify a hundred-fold, if their operations are conducted with skill, energy, and honesty. The overland journey to California, though still an arduous one, is now divested of many of tlie dangers and difficulties I encountered. Eeplenishing depots are now established at convenient points in the wilderness; the faint Indian trail has become a beaten thoroughfare ; the morasses no longer threaten to engulph the traveller; the rapid rivers are ferried over; the thicket is pierced; the forests felled; the rugged pass smoothed over; there's a well in the desert; and the terror of retribution keeps the savage Indian in awe : nevertheless, om* indefatigable tour- ists had better continue to confine tlieir excursions to the *' beautiful Ehine," and the familiar alpine scenery of Swit- zerland, until the completion of the great central railway, and content themselves, in the interim, with a perusal of these pages, which are now submitted, in a cheap and amended form, by THE AUTHOE. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PAGE Haul out of Dock — Gale of 'Wind — Anchor in the River — Description of the Company — All get on Good Terms — Weigh next Moniing under Steam — Wind Unabated — Breakfast-table Scene — Sea- Sick- ness — Cure by Vaccination — Sea ran so high, obliged to take Pilot on Board — His feelings on the Subject — Barque bears down bound for Bristol, and takes Him — Dreadful Squall off the Banks — Strange ' lileteoric Phenomenon — Description of the Passengers during the Gale — Yankee Pilot-boat and Pilot — Short Sketchy Reference to New York, being desirous to hurry on to the Prairie — Visit Boston — Superb River Steamer — Senatorial and Nigger Eloquence — Return to New York, and start for Albany by Rail — Description of that ]\Iode of Travelling — Cross the Hudson on the Ice — Awkward Accident — ISIr. Doheny in Albany — American Notions of Young Irelantlism — Impostors — Laughable Occurrence 15 CHAPTER XL Start for Buffalo — Scene with a Yankee Rwlway Clerk — Relieved from my Dilemma by some Brother Exiles — "Meet my Friend in Buffalo with Two Recruits — Increase of the Californian Fever as I went West — Visit the Falls of Niagara — Great Fall in my preconceived Notions regarding them — Fairy Suspension-bridge — Novel Test of its Safety — Description of the Canadian Stage-coach — Glance at the Countrj' and To%vns — Detroit — Cause of its Statu Quo — Start for Kiles — Rough Jaunt thence to Michigan City — Description of the Country — Lose my Way — Meet some Sulky Indians— Get right again after some Fatigue and Anxiety — Reach Chichago — Great Chain of Inland Navigation — Fine Farming Country on Fox and Rock Rivers — Melancholy Occurrence in the Vicinity of Chichago — Disagreeable Travel from that Town — Arrive at Juliett — Struggle on to Ottoway: a nice thriving Town — Its IManufactures — City of Peru: Wretched Place — The Post-ofhce there — Get a Steamer to St. Louis — Affecting Steam-boat Disaster — St. Louis a fine City.... 2G CHAPTER III. Pleasing Aspect of Slavery at St. Louis — IMeet an Old Schoolfellow resident there — Takes me to see the Lions — Get our full Complement of Recruits — Decline equipping imtil we reach the Frontier Towns — Yin CONTENTS. PAGE Town filled with Californian Placards — Streets lined with Califomian Implements — Newspapers crammed with Californian Advertisements — Hold a Meeting of the Company, at which I am elected Captain — All Novices in Desert- Travelling — Adopt a Costume — Give a Dinner to our Friends — Attend a Nigger Ball — Description of the Assembly — Get Turned Out — The Cause Explained — Start for Independence — Steam-boat Company — Their Tastes and Habits — The Missouri Eiver and its Settlers — Wild Fowl : Wild Turkey — Rifle Practice — Jefferson City, the Capital of Missouri — Steam-boat Race: Nervous Affair — Study of American Customs — Left behind at Boonville — Exciting Race— Independence — Get our Outfit — Purchase Mules, Horses, and Waggons — Difficulty of Managing our Mules — Nigger j\[ode of dealing with them — Start for the Line — Indian Tribes: their DecHne — Ravenous Pigs — Arrangement of Duties 35 CHAPTER IV. Start Monday, 16th April — Feeling on Launching out on the Prairie — Description of the Scene — The Lone Elm — Disappointment — Bull Creek — Soaking Rain-storm — Pleasing Scenery — Stick in the Mud — Unpleasant Quarters — Wolfish Serenade — Indian Creek — Hand- some Landscape — Indian Visit — Crossing of the Wakarusa: its Dif- ficulties — Coon Point — Prairie Spring — Game — Absence of the Buffalo : the Cause — Effect on Indian Population — The Shonganoug — Bad Travelling — Break an Axle — Indian Settlement — Break a Tongue — Alarming Accident — Blacksmith's Shop and Residence — Trouble about getting him to work — Reach the Kansas — Trading Post — Style of Trading there — Indian Fops — Ferry of the Kansas — liisk of Crossing — Catch some Fish — Beautiful Valley of the Kansas — Reflections — French Catholic Mission — Devotedness of the Rev. Father to his Flock and Pupils — Construct a Temporary Viaduct — Approach the Pawnee Nation^— Tiieir Habits and Propensities — Attempt to steal our Animals — The Vermilion — Indian Interpo- sition — Shoot Birds resembling Woodcock — Quantity of Wolves — Disappointment about the Position of the Big Blue — Bad Camp- ing Ground — Miss one of our Men — Protracted and fatiguing Search — Cause of his Straying — Directions to prevent such Occurrences for the Future 47 CHAPTER V. ' Second Start for the Big Blue — Prairie on Fire — Frightful Appear- ance: impossible to describe — Indian Camp — Abundance of Fish — Jokes about the Blue — Dry Weather — Council — Dreadfid Thun- der-storm — Glorious Dawn — Beautiful Basin — Wolf Chase, and Extraordinary Accident — The Real Big Blue at last — Most melan- choly Occurrence — Reflections on the sad Event — Commencement of the jMusquito Nuisance — Fertile Neighbourhood — Lay by a Day — Hurricane — Wild Turkey Chase — Number of Rattlesnakes — Our Fears of them — Missing Horses found — Indications of Buffalo — May Morning Thoughts of Home — Lovely Landscape — Number of Plover — One of the Party bit by a Snake — Bad Camping-ground — Sudden CONTENTS. IX PAGE Change of Temperature — Indian "Wigwams — Their Shyness a bad Augury of their Intentions — Supposed Attack — Indians watching us — Surprise them — Slight Sicirmish — Fish and Fowl plenty — Wag- tails a remedy for Constipation — Navicular Disease : how guarded against 58 CHAPTER YI. 3Iir;ige — Little Blue again — Rain-storm — Appearance cf the Canij) — Delightful Scenery — Reflections — Observance of the Sabbath — Fresh Water Turtle — Indians take the Shape of Wolves — Kill an Antelope — Visit of the Pawnees — Their Appearance — Short Descrip- tion of the Tribe — Their Mode of Trading — Ugly Women — Pelican ^Bluffs of the Platte — Saline Efflorescence — Grand Island — Dig for Water — Musquitoes again — Their Pertinacity — Novel Wager — Fort Kearney — American Soldiers — Profitable Price of Whisky — Battle- ground of the Sioux and Pawnees — Seagulls Inland — Hurricane and Thunder-storm — Stampede — Disagreeable Night — More Crystal- lized Incrustations — Prairie Dog Town — Appearance and Habits of the Animal — Accident to the Mules — Use of lariats — Scarcity of Firewood — Unerring Signs of Bufl'alo — Amazing Size of the Herds — Ineffectual Attempt to Cross the Platte after them 72 CHAPTER Vir. Shaved I^ook of the Prairie — Speckled with Chip — Second Attempt at crosshig — Successful, but attended with great Danger — Kill a Buf- falo — Estimate of their Numbers — Prairie Wolves: their Sagacity — Narrow Escapes at Re-crossing — "Misfortunes never come single" — Crossing of the Buffalo — Flight of our Animals — Peculiarities of the Buffalo — Lie in Wait for a iJrove coming over the River — Shoot a Cow — Their Appearance at this Season — A November Robe the best — Gregarious I*ropensities — Intorfore with the Progress of the Mexican Army — Buffalo Break — Meet a small Herd on our Path — Wound one — Account of the Chase — Nervous Affair — Mode of Pre- serving the lyieat — E^ctraordinary Thickness of the Buffalo Skull — Test it by Rifle Practice — Our Camp — Obliged to drive our Stock on an Island — Kain saturates the Chip, and leaves us without Fire — Grumbling and Dissatisfaction of the Men — Some wish to Return — Persuaded to wait till we reach Fort Laramie — Buffalo Milk — Ano- ther Prairie Dog Town — Cheerless Landscape: Effects on the Spirits — Sagacity of the Mules — Miss some of our Men, who appear in the Morning greatly knocked up ^ 83 CHAPTER VIIL Beds for the Invalids — Mode of decoying Antelope — Try it, and succeed — Sleet-storm — Soft state of the Ground — Cannot rind a Dry Spot to Camp on — A Lot of Mules get badly Mired — Continuance of the Storm — Dread lest the River should rise — The Indian Dreader alarmed again — Visit of a large Party of Sioux Indians — Handsome Capa- risons — Reason of our Friend's Precipitate Return — Description of X CONTENTS. PAGE the Sioux — Their Costume — INIode of betokening Friendship — Ex- hibit our Trading Wares — Interchange of Presents — They leave, pro- mising to meet us at the Ford in the Morning — Do not meet their "War Party — Mode of Indian Burial — Find the Ford too deep for Crossing — Try it, but are forced to desist — Washing on the Plains — Sioux come again in a handsome Cavalcade — Beauty and Fasci- nations of the Sioux Women — Sioux Cleverness at Trading — Visit their Village by Invitation — Description of their Town and Wig- wams — Juvenile Archery — Get a Cure for my Horse — Give an Acknowledgment of our kind Reception — Take our reluctant Leave — False Character given of the Sioux — River Falls — Wound an Indian by Mistake — Great Breadth of the Platte — The task of Cros- sing — Consolation in a Hail-storm — Try our New Buffalo Horse — Description of the Indian Style of Hunting that Animal — Kervous Passage over a very Narrow Ridge — Dangerous Descent and Acci- dent — Lovely Basin at tlie Bottom — Whirlwind — Enormous sized Hail-stones — Ash Hollow, North Platte 93 CHAPTER IX. Drifting Sand — Court-house Rock — Uninteresting Scenery — More Rain — Its disagreeable EiFect — Chimney Rock — Its Appearance — Fast decaying — Symptoms of Gold in the Ravines — Continued Rain — Damages our Provisions — Stopped by the INIud — Brandy Rations — Mount Ararat — Scenery improves — Indian Introduction — Air our Loading — Shoot Antelope — French Trapper — Fascinations of that Mode of Existence — Anticipations about Fort Laramie — The Fort itself — Obliging Governor — Trading at the Fort — Distance from In- dependence, and Time occupied in TravelUng — Future Facilities — Determine on Packing — Dissuasions of the Governor unavailing — Crow Indians: their very bad Character — Faith in Indian Chivalry — Vote of Thanks — Troubles of Packing — Renewed Contests with the ISIules — Their Antics — Difficulty of cording Packs — Pack turns: Conduct of the Mules thereon — Our first Night's Bivouac as Packers — Black Hills: expansive View — Worrying Mishap and Delay — Moonlight Travel — Thoughts about the Crows — Long Day's Journey — Fatigue, Disappointment, Delight, and Apprehension — Unwelcome Sounds — Deliberation — The Appearance of the Country — Crickets and Ants — Our Precautions preparative to Rest 108 CHAPTER X. Large dry River-bed — Notice nailed to a Tree — Forced Marches of the Waggons — Buffalo Break — Long Day's Journey — No Sign of Wag- gons — Bad Policy of forcing Travel on such a Journey — Indians about — Report of a Gun at Daybreak — Our Waggon Friends at length — The Ferry of the Platte — Mormon Encampment — The Cros- sing — Lamentable Accident — Incommunicativeness of the ]\Iormons — Fearful Mule-track above the River — Description of the Passage — The Sand Tick Nuisance — " Travelling makes us acquainted with Strange Bedfellows" — Artemesia — "Long Threatening comes at last" — The Crow Indians — We treat them with Confidence — They treat COXTEI^TS. Xi PAGE lis with Treachery — The Scuffle — Oar Good Fortune — Annihilation of our Packing Fixtures — lluse to Escape their Vengeance — Midnight Travel — Come up to the Waggon Camp — New Arrangement — Vol- canic Debris — Bitter Water — Distant View of the Wind River Range — Saleratus Lakes — The Sweetwater — Misnomer of the River — Independence Rock — Wonderful Canon — Our Last Buffalo— Sur- prise a Party of Crows — Their great Fright — Artemesia Fire — No Ijuffdlo west of the Rocky Mountains 121 CHAPTER XL Lodge Pole-marks — Indian Mode of Removing — Increase of Artemesia and Lizards — Fine View — South Pass — Contrast with the Imagina- tion — Horse and Lodge Pole-marks — Cold Nights and Hot Days — Irtimensc Indian encampment — Our Feelings on seeing it — Move down to Camp on the River opposite to them — Saluted by a White Man in our own Language — M. Vasques, of Fort Bridger — Tells us they are Shoshonee, or Snake Indians — Tlieir Character and Habits — Adopt the Salt Lake Route — Origin of Fort Bridger — M. Vasques's Speculation — Imposing Cortege — Trade with the Snakes — Enter the South Pass — The Pacific Springs — Thoughts of Home — Royal Bed- fellow — Distance from Independence — Thoughts on Waggon Tra- velling — Excitement of Travelling in New Countries — Severe Frost — Mountain Sickness — Appearance of the Country — Curious Buttcs — The Little Sandy — Big Sandy — No Heath in America — Green River — Storj' of the Old Pawnee Mocassin 135 CHAPTER XH. The Ferrying of Green River — The Mode and Difficulty — The Hard Work swells our Invalid List — Dangerous Symptoms — Effects of the Mountain Fever — Extreme Heat — Bad Roads and Fatigue of Ani- mals — Black's Fork of Green River — Scenery of the Wilderness — Fort Bridger — Purchase a Small Beef— Mr. Bridge's Kindness — Sage-hens — The Little l\Iuddy — Waggon Accident — Visit from a small party of Snake Indians — The Love of their Horses — Shaking Swamp — iVnother Waggon Accident — Bad River Crossing — Drown a Mule — Crowd of Hills — Primitive Bridge — Fine Country — Shoot two Antelopes — Our old Tormentors — New Discovery — Slaughter of Rattlesnakes — IMidnight Indian Visit — Get into the Region of Snow — Slide down into a Narrow Valley — Great Anticipations of the Mormon City — Thunder-storm — Exciting Bear-hunt — Fright of ~ the Animals — Distant View of the Mountains of the Salt Lake Val- ley — Romantic Scenery — Reflections — Tiie Jumping-off Place — Unprecedented Descent — Comparison of the Dangers of a Fox Chase with such Driving — Description of the Mormon Canon — Mormon Lirae-bumers 143 CHAPTER XIIL Gratification at meeting a 'White Miin — Doubts our having come the whole way this Season — Exchange Tumblers of Brandy -Punch for Xll CONTENTS. PAGE Letters of Introduction — Our being mostly Foreigners ensure us a Kinder Keception — Meet more Mormons — A little Tobacco procures us a groat Desideratum — Emerge into open Air — First View of the Salt Lake Valley — Its Appearance — The City of the Mormons — Their Hospitality — Dancing Party — Polygamy and Platonism — Fresh Meat, and in abundance — Any Price or anything for Coffee and Sugar — Neatness and Convenience of Mormon Houses — Promise of an abundant Harvest — Wonders worked in so short a Settlement — Great quantity of Stock — Get all Repairs done — Natural hot Baths — The Temple-;-The Congregation — The Proceedings — The Sermon — Impressions of Mormon Godliness — Civil Government — Mormon Jealousy — The Population in the Valley — Extreme Heat of it — Swarms with Crickets — T. T. L. Visits— Amiability of the Ladies .157 CHAPTER XIV. Effects of the Tender Passion — Early Start — Boiling Springs — The Great Salt Lake — Its Appearance — Analysis of its Waters — Its Peculiarities — Comfort of the Mormon Agriculturists — The Cricket Nuisance — More Wives Spiritual and Temporal — Change our System of Travel — The AVeber — Obliged to Ferry over our Loads — Mr. Goodyear's Farm — Thick Jungle — The Ogden — Fine View — Heat of the Sun — Water before Gold — Fierce Insects — Signal Fires — Bear River — Surprised to find Men in the act of Launching a Boat — Musquitoes — Lose a Horse and Mule in the Ferry — Our Camp- ground — Take a more Westerly Course — Scarcity of Fresh Water — Salt Streams Hot and Cold side by side — Send out Scouts to look for Water — Their protracted Absence — Our Sufferings — Come to Water at last — Shoot an Indian — Lamentable Necessity for such Rigour — Last View of the Great Salt Lake — The Broad-axe Guard — Desolation and Solitude 13G CHAPTER. XV. The Digger Indians — Their Appearance, Character, Habits, and Cus^ toms — Their Extent of Territory — Their Practices towards Emigrants — Desert Country — The Toil of the Animals — The Fourth of July — Festival in the Wilderness — Occurrences of the Night — Fine Feed — Country again improves — Meet the Fort Hall Trail — Pictur- esque Scenery — Shoot a Black-tailed Deer — Different Treatment of Venison in those Hills from Ludgate-hill — Our Friend the Indian Dreader in fear — Goose Creek — The Wild Excitement — The Blank Disappointment — " All is not gold that glitters" — True Philosophy makes our Disappointment Food for Fun — Further Researches — Volcanic Indications — Narrow Pass — No Gold — Rugged Defile — Waggon Accident — "Necessity the Mother of Invention" — Sage- hens and Digger Indians — Their Flight — Apprehension of having gone astray — Snow-capped Mountains to cross — Infamous Road — Giddy Precipice — The Humboldt River — Strange Appearance of the Land near its Head Waters — Colonel Fremont's Description of the Humboldt River 17 CONTENTS. l^ll CHAPTER XVI. Sliort Cut Indian Surprise — My Retreat and "Wound — The Termina- tion of the Chase — Motives of the Attack — The Dust Nuisance — A hungry Digger — His Gastronomic Performance — Its Effect — Travel- ling ill the clouds — Heat of the Ground — Novel Appearance of the Country — Mountain Pass — Niglit Travelling in the Wilderness — Sublime Scenery — ^loonlight — Sunrise — Ophthalmia and Cracked Lips— The Sun,' and its reflected Heat— The Water gets ill-tasted — Grand Canon — State of the Animals and our Lips — Wild Currants — Dogged by the Indians— Give them a Surprise— Amusing Retreat of the Diggers — Good Camping-ground — Serious Difficulties of the route — Deep Dust and intense Heat — Proposition — Lighten our Ijoads Leave our Goods upon the Desert — Reduce the Burdens to Seven Hundred-weight per Waggon — Effects of the hot Sand on our Waggon-wheels — Green Goggles and Veils in request — More Cur- rants — My Wound becomes very angry — Appoint a Deputy — Diverting Indian Water-hunt 1S8 CHAPTER XVIL Another Surgical Operation — Obliged to take up my abode in a Wag- gon — Time for Reflection — A Waggon Dream — Volcanic Indica- tions — Spectral Waltzes — Shoot some Sage-hens — Bitter bad Water Get into the Saddle again — Petrified Fungi and Volcanic Debris — Appalling Sterility — Diminution of the River — Thickness of the Water — The Ashy Dust — Miss Mitford's definition of it — Ophthalmia in the Horses — Alluvial Bottom — Mirage in the Wilderness — De- ceived as to the Sink — Frigidum Line — Ulcerated Sore-throats — Appearance of the Animals — Meagre Diet — Crippled Appearance of the Caravan — Magical influence of Golden Anticipations — Pimping Indians — Mowing with Case-Knives — Diggers come amongst us unawares — No Hostility — Get them to Work — Their Mode of v.ear- ing English Apparel — 3Iake our Hay into Trusses, and divide it — Volcanic Evidences — The Sink of Humboldt River — Description of it — Order of Travel across the Desert — Reflections on the Siiflerings of those who will come later in the Season — Account of their dire Character — Humboldt River free from the Musquito Torment 198 CHAPTER XVIIL The Wheels braced by Immersion — Face the Desert in good Spirits — Blinding Dust — The Sulphur Springs — Heat of the Morning Sun — Grand Exhibition of Mirage — Dreadful Toil — Withering Heat — In- sensibility of some of the Men — Impatience of the Stock while gettmg their Gruel — Temporary Insanity — Simoom — Its Provi- dential Eflects — Hurrah! Carson's River — The Science of Guzzling — Conduct of the Insane Men — Scenes of the Desert — Heartless Conduct — Whence the name of Carson River — Its course and Pecu- liarities — A Day's Rest in Paradise — Recovery of the Invalids — Colonel Fremont's Description of the Great Basin 208' XIV CONTEXTS. CHAPTER XIX. Start from Carson River — Abridged Edition of the Desert — First Yie-w of the Great Sierra Nevada — Innocent Reflections — Laudable For- bearance — Doubt and Anxiety — Removed by Patience — Indian Mischief — Sad Retribution — No Alternative — Appearance of the Country — Indian troop — Their Errand — Their Views — Carson River again — Can't catch Fish — Indian Foot-prints — Tangled Trail — Vol- canic Debris — Surprise some Indians — Their Terror — Their loath- some Look — Trail over Cinders and Cluikers — Its Eifect on the Mules and Waggons — Full Profile of the Great Sierra Nevada — ^Its grand Appearance — Lovely Valley — Gigantic Pines — Fremont's Description — Our camp at the Mountain Base — Indian Visit — Trade for Trout — They dissemble their skill in Archeiy — ^Method of Draw- ing them out — More Fish next Morning — Indian Mode of getting into English Apparel — Romantic Emotions — Yankee Definition — Passage of an awful Canon — Description — A Break-down — The Crossing of the Torrent — Reed Lake — Reach the Foot of the Pass — Its imprac- ticable Look — What the Horses think of it — ^What the Mules — Preparations for the Ascent 217 CHAPTER XX. Commence the Ascent — Horses encouraged by the Mules to make tlio Trial — A displaced Rock causes the Death of one of the Horses — The Damages and Difficulties of the Task — Frightful Chasm — Pure Cold Water — How we got up the Waggons — Danger from the Rocks rolling down — Deplorable Accident — Lose two Mules — Finish the Task — Make a call on the Echoes of the Sierra Nevada — AYinter Scenery in the Dog-days — Paddy Blake's Remark — Deceived as to the Summit of the Range — Drop into a Fertile Valley — Ascents and De- scents — The Region of Perpetual Snow — Snow Stairs — Cold Nights — Adopt Indian Tactics — Description of the Mountain Scenerj'— Measurement of some Trees — Grizly Bear and Family — Moonlight Travel in the Mountain Pines — No Fruit: no Birds — Fertile Basin — The Manzanita — Indian Foray — Pleasant Valley — Califomian Quail — Chilian Gold-Diggers — The first Sample of the veritable Stuff, and no Mistake — Their account of the Diggings — Dry Dig- gings — Average Returns — Weber Creek — End of the Journey for the Present — Time Employed — Our grateful Feelings at its Termination — Seal up the Property of our Departed Comrades — Acquaint their Friends of their melancholy Fate — The Contemplated Railway from the States to the Pacific — Distance Table from Independence to San Francisco .,., 230 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, KEW YOEK TO CALIFORNIA. CHAPTER I. Haul out of Dock— Gale of Wind — Anchor in tiie River— Description of tlie Com- pany — All get on good terms — Way next morning under Steam — Wind unabated — Breakfast-table Scene — Sea Sickness — Cure by Vaccination— Sea ran so higli obliged to take Pilot on— His Feelings on the Subject— Barque bears down bound for Bristol, and takes him — Dreadful Squall off the Banks— Strange Meteoric Phenomenon — Description of the Passengers during the Gale— Yankee Pilot-boat and Pilot— Short Sketchy Reference to New York, being desirous to hurry on to the Pr^rie — Visit Boston — Superb River Steamer — Senatorial and Nigger Elo- quence-Return to New York, and start for Albany by Rail — Description of tliat Mode of Travelling — Cross the Hudson on the Ice — Awkward Accident — Mr. Doheny in Albany — American Notions of Y'oung Irelandism— Impostors— Laugh- able Occurrence. We hauled out of dock, at Liverpool, in tliat tine steam- ship the Sarah Sands, on the morning of the 20th of January, 1849, but there was such a hurricane blowing from tlie west, it was considered not only useless, but ex- ceedingly dangerous, to put out to sea in the teeth of it. So the anchor was dropped in the river. We were not over- crowded with passengers, having just enough to constitute an agreeable party, chastened by the presence of some of the softer sex, whose channs and accomplishments dispelled the tedium and monotony of the voyage. Amongst the gentlemen we had every variety and shade of character, " both grave and gay, lively and serene;" some most amus- ing blades of infinite mirth, who were wont ''to keep the table in a roar;" and, as usual on all such occasions and 16 ACROSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, congregations, a butt, who unconsciously contributed to the cheerfulness and good humour of the society. None were allowed on shore, as the captain resolved on starting the moment of the slightest lull; however, it blew on, with very little abatement, all day and night, and as the passengers had nothing else to do, they set about breaking the ice of formality with so very earnest a will, that by the time the midnight summons was tolled, all were on the most familiar terms possible : separating more after the manner of old friends than new-born acquaintances. Before I had any idea of turning out in the morning, it not being quite light, I heard the windlass bousing up the anchor, and the wind also whistling through the cordage in C sharp : sounds that brought me on deck to see what was going on, when I found the ship just under way, with her propeller, not a rag of canvas being set, as the wind was dead ahead, still blowing great guns; but, as the ves sel's trips were pre-advertised. Captain Thompson would not wait another tide. When the breakfast-gong sounded we were abreast of the Eock-light, pitching into it in most staggering style, and of those who clambered to that meal only two of the passengers remained to finish: rather an early beginning, considering, I may say, that we were still in fresh water, barely emerging from the chops of the river. But this sea-sickness is a strange, unaccountable malady — infectious, no doubt, like yawning — for no sooner did one gentleman evince a disposition to retreat, than another uttered a groan, with indistinct inquiry for the steward, which proved the signal for a most inharmonious chorus, during which all the performers made their exit, leaving the table cleared of eveiy one but the ship's officers and a pair of case-hardened voyageurs, who found food for mirth in the muffled moans that issued from the distant berths and state rooms, om^ gallant commander jocularly remark- ing, "Who would not sell a faiTQ and come to sea?" As with toothache, there is no commiseration for the victims, because there is no danger; and like it, too, it entails ex- quisite suffering, without any " safe or certain remedy" for its cure or even alleviation being as yet discovered, though I believe the British Association have turned their attention to the matter, professing to deal with it by some process of vaccination, which, however, they have as yet kept a pro- found secret. FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 17 The sea ran so liipjh outside the lip^ht-ship we could not put the pilot on board his craft, and were, consequently, obliged to bring him on, in expectation of meeting a ves- sel down Channel to take him to port; but we took a last leave of the land off Cape Clear without much subsidence of the gale, or an opportunity of transhipping him; much, I should say, from all appearances, to his gratification, being anxious to see the New World on such favourable temis as a free passage, all found out and home, and his wages ac- cumulating dm-ing his absence. He was a fine, active, in- telligent young fellow, and soon became a general favom-ite, and not wishing to remain idle, proffered his gratuitous services in any department; but tlie vessel can'ied so full and efficient a crew, they were most tliankfully declined, reminding me of an occurrence of a somewhat similar na- ture that happened to a friend of mine at the ' Punch' office, where some excellent original jokes were politely handed him back on the same grounds. I don't know exactly how tlie pilot felt, but my friend, I know, was not a little mor- tified. The weather now began to moderate, but the pertinacious wind kept still confronting us until we reached a longitude about 8U0 miles to the westward, when we saw a large barque evidently bearing down for us, and our captain, not divining the object, hove to while she came within hail to ascertain her longitude, tlie weatlier being so hazy for some days back she could not get the sun. Everybody seemed to take an interest in the brazen colloquy but the pilot, who even retired from the deck, actuated by very opposite motives, lest his appearance might suggest the idea of send- ing him home, if the barque happened to be bound for a British port. However, in his absence he was not forgot- ten; for when, in answer to the question, "Where are you bound for?" ''Bristol" came down the wind, "Pilot, make ready to go aboard!" was sung out at the top of the cap- tain's voice. I never saw a poor fellow so chopfallen ; all his efforts to affect indifference were wholly abortive, and when taking leave, he hun-ied through the formula with a nervous precipitancy that let out the state of his feelings. We now got a favourable slant which carried us to the Banks of Newfoundland, when one night, as we were all engaged, some at whist, some at chess, some in conver- sation, and others in hammock, going along smoothly, a B 18 ACROSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, sudden sensation struck us like that of the unexpected stop of a vehicle travelling rapidly. We were tilted against each other; the candles reeled; the captain (whose watch it was helow) iiished on deck; and before we could coin a conjecture, the ship was labouring violently, and the stem roar of command, and the clattering of feet on deck, and tlie hauling of ropes, and the dread bellowing of the ele- ments, announced a tremendous squall, which took us aback, and would, no doubt, have resulted in a most dire catastrophe, only for the promptness and cool energy of the captain and his hardy crew, who had taken in studding- sails, reefed topsails, and got the vessel under easy canvass, before one of the passengers ventured up to inquire "what was the matter." Some of us imagined the ship had been struck by lightning as well, for the mast-heads and yard- arm ends were studded with large meteors : a phenomenon new to us all; but no one dared ask a question; nor would it have been answered were it asked, for all the men and officers had ample employment for their faculties besides giving explanations of the sort. After about half an hour some heavy drops of rain began falling at intervals ; then suddenly, as if by touching the lever of a shower-bath, it came down in a plashing torrent, tumbling in a perfect cascade from the little quarter-deck aft the wheel. The wind soon succumbed to its potency, the crested .waves were quickly beaten do^vn into comparative quiescence, and in less than an hour from the first shock, orders to make sail w^ere passed, and the ship was steering her course under a clear and cloudless sky: so treacherous and fickle are the elements on the turbulent Atlantic at this season of the year. Of course nobody was alarmed. It was a grand spec- tacle, worth coming the whole voyage to witness: but some melodramatic gentlemen who had descanted most eloquently on the imposing sublimity and gi'andem* of the war of ele- ments, as if wholly divested of collateral consequences, were a little before simultaneously seized with a desire of examining their prayer-books, whose gilt-edged leaves had never before been dissevered; our worthy butt, who was aroused from his pillow, demonstrating the entire absence of any emotion on his part, by sitting in the cabin amongst the affrighted ladies in a red worsted nightcap and a cut- away shirt; while Pat's characteristic exclamation, "Hould FKOM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 19 your tongue, ye haythin! if the Lord knows you're here, we're all done for," might have been most aptly applied to one gentleman, who became suddenly converted from the dai'k doctrines of materialism into a most sanctified pro- fession of the Nicene Creed; but The devil got sick, the devil a monk would be; The devil got well, the devil a monk was he. We had a good deal of joking, and divers and sundry bottles of mulled port before we turned in for the night, and a renewal of the fun at the breakfast-table next morn- ing, asking for homilies from our devout brethren, and ex- tolling the appearance of Mr. in his new evening costume. All the way across the Gulf Stream and the Banks there was veiy variable weatlier, shifty w^inds that freshened into squalls, and cold rains that were condensed into snow, as we approached the gi'eat western continent. We almost sighted land and a pilot-boat at the same time, in the early dawn of a clear frosty morning, which proved to be one of tlie Long Island bluifs ; but we were all sadly disappointed on being told it was still two hundred and fifty miles to Sandy Hook. The pilot soon clawed up the side, gi-eeting the captain in the national intonation: ** Captain, how d'ye do, anyhow?" but looked a wee bit gritty as a cluster of of innocents hovered around him to decide their various bets as to " how many buttons were wanting on his pea- jacket;" *'how many guesses he would make in a given time; **how many calculations he would enter into," and as to " whether he wore earrings or not." He gave us all the late New York news, and told us "we should meet con- siderable of field ice in-shore, as it was the most darned winter they had had for years back." I was exceedingly disappointed by the low, flat, naked appearance of the shore as we approached the land, with- out a natural beauty to meet the eye in any direction, save the mariner's idol, a spacious and secure harbour. But tliis has been so frequently described, and is now so gene- rally visited, I shall not detain my readers with a fresh portrait, the more particularly as my object is to get him on the prairie with as little delay as possible ; neither shall I trouble him with any detailed opinions of the city, or my 20 ACROSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, impressions regarding the striking contrasts presented in the different phases of society and commerce betwixt America and the old country. I conformed to the maxim, "When at Rome, do as Eome does," as well as I could, being nearly as quick on my legs as my Yankee comi:)etitors at the sound of the meal gongs, but left behind, like the dunce in the school-room, in the system of go-a-head mas- tication. I smoked my cigar with rather a sickening in- dustry, but could never persuade my palate to relish the juice of the tobacco, or arrive at anytliing like artistic ex- cellence in squirting it through my teeth. I reared up my chair rather gallantly on its hind legs ; the recollection of an equestrian mishap, however, restrained me from emu- lating the excellence of those folk who can sit under the shadow of their o\m toes as complacently and coolly as if under the shade of a tree. But it appeared to me strangely incompatible with the refined delicacy and high-toned feel- ing set do^Yn by themselves as peculiar to the States, to see a gentleman occupying an entire window, heels aloft on each side, and saluting a lady betwixt his legs : an attitude, to my mind, not peculiarly classic, and one which certainly behoves folks addicted to such a mode of salutation to have especial care about the state of their wardrobe. I saw all the great sights, from the Croton Watenvorks down, and visited most of the public institutions, which appeared to me to be well managed except the post-office, which is still conducted on the old press-gang system. Strange, is it not, that in such a city the letter-cariTing plan would not be adopted, affording as it does such useful facilities for delivery and communication? There was nothing going on at the theatres but low buffoonery, nor are those establishments worthy of so great a city. I Avent * special' with some ladies of my acquaintance to a prome- nade concert at the new Opera-house in Astor Place, that I might gloat on the boasted beauty of New York. How- ever, I found that, like Sheridan's charity, "it is of so do- mestic a character it never roams abroad," tliough I was informed all the elite would attend, and retiring loveliness be induced to unveil itself there : so that I was obliged to leave the city without being permitted to gaze upon those Broadway belles whom Jonathan vaunts as the angels of humanity. During my brief sojourn in New York I put up at, or FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 21 rather permitted myself to be Imddled into, one of those huge human pens in the Broadway, which there are called *4iouses," in contradistinction to the British synonyme of hotel, and found them even more distinct and different in their system of management than in their name; no doubt according and harmonising with the spirit of "free and en- lightened" habits and republican institutions, but strangely Jiud uncomfortably at variance with the good old English style of conducting such establishments. As was my wont in the old country, I left my boots outside my bedroom door, where I found them in the morning, drooping as if in anguish at their tottil neglect, for it seems it is a matter of special contract with Sambo to have them attended to: the usual practice being to give them a daub and a rasp in the ])ack hall after the ownier is established in them for the day ; clothes-brushing being accomj)lished in a similar way by a darkie ^vith a pair of twigs, with which he beats a rat-tat-too all over you in time to the hum of one of his sable melodies. My bell was tardily answered by the wondering intrusion of a woolly head, which, in reply to the demand for hot water, gi-inned most laughbly a funny smile, and infonned massa that "gemmen no shabe at home, but go to barber's;" so tliat I was constrained either to try the process in frUfidum sine, or go down to break- fast in the stubble; before which a printed notification over the mantel-piece caught my eye, whereby I was given to- understand, that "unless I deposited the key of my room- with the clerk at the bar, the proprietor would not be ac- countable for my luggage;" a piece of information that stamped our Anglo-American cousins in my mind with the- additional attribute of being "free and easy' as well as en- lightened. The only other national characteristic as con- nected Avith their "houses" that may be worthy of remark, is* the habit of anti-prandial bibation ; for instead of composing tliemselves comfortably to enjoy the social glass from off the naked mahogany, they crowd into the bar before the dinner-hour to " swill their drinks," " suck their juleps," and "sink their bitters." Being most desirous to see the sceneiy on the Hudson, I waited a few days, in the expectation that the ice ^vould break up, and enable me to proceed to Albany by water; and those I occupied in visiting Boston, going down to Fall River by the Sound, and thence by rail, clioosing this route- UQ> ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, merely to have an opportunity of travelling in that magni- ficent boat, the Bay States, that plies on the station. We have no such style of river-boat on the Thames, Clyde, or Shannon. Her amazing size, the gorgeous and expensive manner in which she is fitted, and the extent and ingenuity of accommodation, far and away transcend any picture of imagination, while her power and speed were perfectly in keeping with her other qualities. Boston I admired much more than New York. It is, in truth, a fine city, fair to look upon, extensive in its com- merce, polished in its society, and governed by most excel- lent municipal laws and regulations : there are more of the true enjoyments of domestic life there than in any other city of the Union I visited. Wealthy merchants and suc- cessful professional men all live in their private houses, and keep their regular staff of servants (or "helps," as Jonathan calls them) quite in the English fashion; some even at- tempting livery, which, on its first appearance, caused a great outciy, as an outrage against republicanism, creating badges of sei'vitude and distinction, while equality should be the invariable rule. I spent a day in listening to the debates in the houses of the Senate and Assembly; but ^whether it was that the subjects were barren, or the great sj)eakers absent, I did not happen to hear any specimens of even mediocre oratoiy. I was, however, recomjiensed in the evening by listening to the richest specimen of ener- getic declamation I ever heard, at a nigger prayer-meeting, during which the ebony preacher conveyed to me the de- licious consolation, "dat eben the wild Irishman liab a soul to be saved." On my return to New York, finding the Hudson still impracticable from ice, I started for Albany by rail, in a carriage that answers Dickens's description in every parti- cular; the temperature of which was so smothering from the heat of the stove and confined air, I thought I should have an attack of apoplexy before I got to my destination; far all doors were carefully shut, and no one allowed to open a window, Avhile at eveiy stop I was shot from my seat against the opposite panel with a stmming concussion, Y'ankee drivers not caring to graduate their speed before stopping, as we do, but, shutting off their steam at one stroke, come to a stand-still, with a shock as if the engine ran tilt against a battery wall, which is not only excessively FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. ft8 imcomfortable to the passengers, but, I should say, highly injurious both to the luachineiy and carriages. The regu- lations, though, with regard to luggage, are admirable, and prevent both fraud and mistake: a numbered copper label being affixed to each trunk or parcel, of wdiicli tlie owner gets a duplicate, which is required to be produced at the terminus before deUvery. When I an-ived at Albany I found the station-house on the opposite side of the river to the to^wn, so I employed a light spring waggon to take me over with my luggage; and the moment I got up, seated on my portmanteau, the driver set off at a gallop do^-n a steep incline to the river, as I supposed to water his nags, tliere being no bridge in the line ; but in he dashed full speed, to my gi'eat disma3^ splashing the water, which was full eight inches deep on tlie ice. 1 held my breath, and affected a composure that was eveiy now and then awkwardly tested by a straining crack, as if the whole frozen platfomi was about breaking up for tlie season, being fully persuaded my hour was come, when one of the wheels spun off, oversetting us with a stunning crash, sending my portmanteau half scudding, half skating along like a miniature locomotive, and spread- ing me out ih a sprawling posture, uncertain whether run- ning or swimming was to be the next move. I was soon, however, in pursuit of the fugitive horses towards the op- posite shore, leaving tlie driver to tow my traps into har- bour. In Albany I found the renowned Mr. Doheny, w^ho had obtained the use of the Hall of Assembly to give to the curious public " a full and true account" of his chapter of *' moving accidents by flood and field," at tlie small cost of fifty cents a head. I made one of a large audience, who, it was quite clear from tlieir remarks and commentaries, were merely congregated to hear his version of the matter, and not from any interest in the prospects of his party, or solicitude about the fate of his companions. His address was well concocted; set up 'rather tall,' no doubt, as Jona- than would say; the striking incidents dramatically ar- ranged, and delivered theatrically; but his most studied efforts failed to excite a spark of enthusiasm; his hair- breadth escapes were unable to elicit a single thrill of s}Tn- pathy; his choicest flowers of oratoiy were culled in vain. The memory of tlie illustrious dead interposed as a gloomy *24 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, non-conductor; and while the Irish emigrant murmured his conviction that the death of O'Connell lay at the door of the Young Ireland party, the other section of the audi- tory muttered their distrust in the sincerity of the leaders of the revolt, sneering at the Tipperary rising as a parody on rebellion; that rising, forsooth, which was to wrest the brightest gem in the British diadem from the grasp of that powerful nation; a campaign got up without concert, arms, ammunition, money, or organisation; opened with a few dozen of the " hereditary bondsmen," ready to " strike the blow" from pure love of liberty, and the smallest taste in life of plunder; but no, they must not infringe tlie sacred rights of property while they are excited to overturn a dy- nasty, and annihilate law and order; the revolution must be accomplished without an outrage; O'Connell would not have repeal " at the cost of a single drop of human blood;" Smith O'Brien would not accept a crown if it involved the sacrifice of a bleating lamb. " Teuch but one sheep," he said to his hungiy heroes, " and I will withdraw from the cause:" rather an unpalatable proclamation to the boys, who were licking their lips in anticipation of the sweets and feasts they made sure of enjoying; so, when the com- missariat-general came back from the village with the few loaves and no fishes, together with the change in copper, the multitude had dwindled down most magically, leaving the hero of the memorable baiTack-siege to wend his way to the railway station and give himself up to the autho- rities. Thus began and ended that stupendous j)hysical force demonstration which was to place the descendant of the great Brian Boroihme on the Irish throne, an independent sovereign, and inundate the land with milk and honey. Could any sane or honest man, or set of men, expect any such result from such an effort? " Pooh, pooh! gammon! fudge! treachery!" responded Jonathan; "it is all veiy fine, Mr. Doheny, but rather steej) for credit." While Mr. Doheny and some of his genuine brethren were giving their evenings at home in various localities, several impostors sprang up to minister to the public ap- petite throughout the Union, it appearing to be as easy a way as any going of gathering the dollars. Men, there- fore, who were some years An the States, but still retained enough of the brogue, blarney, and brass, to pass for mo- FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 25 dem refugees, started this game, which was prematurely detected in Cincinnati, where a Mr. O'Neil placarded him- self to appear on a certain evening. Having accordingly presented himself to a well-filled house, in a herculean frame, uncomfortably overdressed, and smoking with the vapour of hot i-um-punch he commenced by saying, ''La- dies and gintlemen, I arise up fominst yees, to descant upon the sorrows and troubles of my poor country. (Cheers^^ and pshaws.) I sti-ugglid many a long day for her,, and was willin to spill my own blood in her great and glorious cause, but the vyle Saxin invaydhir hunted me out from the bright jua of the say. (X.oud cheers and hisses, and flutter- ing of whey-coloured AvTpers.) Och ! ladies, it s aisy known there is some of the green-eyed* daughters of Elirin amongst yees when I hear tliat cheer " (Interiniption, hisses, and cries of "Give back the tin!" "Go on!" "Hum- bug!" "Walked into!") during which the patriot bolted, getting out at a back-door. This produced a gi'eat scene of uproar, some hunting the premises, and others giving chase in the street; however, Mr. O'Neil made a most ef- fective display, for he successfully eluded pursuit >vitli the entire proceeds. I did not remain long enough in the States to ascertain in how far the promulgation of this at- tempt affected the regulars, but the feeling of disgust and suspicion it excited must have been, I think, sadly detri- mental to their prospects. * Quccrf ^Dark-eyed daughters of jrreen Erin? S6 ACROSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, CHAPTER II. start for Buffalo— Scene with a Yankee Raihvay Clerk— Relieved from my Dilemma by some brother Exiles— Meet my Friend in Buffalo with two Recruits— Increase of the Californian Fever as I went West— Visit the Falls of Niagara— Great Fall in my preconceived Notions regarding them — Fairy Suspension Bridge— Novel Test of its Safety — Description of the Canadian Stage-coach — Glance at the Country and Towns— Detroit— Cause of its Stain Qmoj- Start for Niles— Rough Jaunt thence to Michigan City — Description of th^Country— Lose my Way— Meet some Sulky Indians — Get right again after some Fatigue and Anxiety — Reach Chichago— Great Chain of Inland Navigation— Fine Farming Country on Fox and Rock Rivers— ^lelancholy Occurrence in the Vicinity of Chichago -Dis- agreeable Travel from that Town— Arrive at Juliett— Struggle on to Ottoway : a nice thriving Town— Its Manufactures— City of Peru : wretched Place— The Post-office there — Get a Steamer to St. Louis — Affecting Steam-boat Disaster — St. Louis : a fine City. Having made an appointment to meet a brother voyager across the Atlantic on a certain day in Buifalo — one who promised to accompany me across the plains — I went to the railway-office early in the morning to ascertain the time of the starting of the train for that city. On enter- ing the apartment I saw before me on the counter the soles of a pair of boots, which I found were affixed to a long, thin-edged clerk, who was poised below in an arm- chair, mumbling a cigar. '' Is there an early train for Buffalo?" I asked. " I reckon," said he. "What do you reckon?" I rejoined, smiling, without meaning offence. "I reckon you sha'n't travel in it, anyhow," said he, getting on his legs, in an angry mood. " I require to get to Buffalo by the earliest conveyance. What is the fare?" " No need for hurry. Ill let you wait till evening." *' I observe by this notice," pointing to one on the wall, "that a train goes at nine o'clock." " Well, you'll not travel in it. I'll make you go by the dear cars. I see you can afford it." " You shall not coerce me to travel othenvise than as I FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 27 choose, and I warn you to refuse me a ticket at your peril," I said, throwing down my eagle. But he coolly turned away, and commenced reading a newspaper on the desk; I tried and threatened, but could not extract another syl- lable from him, and never was more provoked, feeling a tingling at my fingers' ends to have " a go" at him; but I thought it the better course to remain, and represent his conduct to the directors. However, my anxiety to get for- wai-d was greater than my ire ; for, in hurraing to ask the advice of my landlord how I should manage under the cir- cimistances, I met in the gateway a batch of my country- men, " coming to dhrnw their ijossagis,'' as they said, to one of whom I gave the eagle to purchase an extra ticket, by which means I got on, much to the chagiiu of this autocratic sen-ant, who absolutely dared to stop my lug- gage; but this I summarily stopped by an argumentum ad hombiem. A pretty specimen this of the laws and customs of the free republic, where a stranger s comfort and convenience are at tlie m^cy of an impudent railway clerk, who can in- flict the penance of extra cost and delay if you cannot com- prehend in a moment his delectable slang! It is needless to take up time and space in describing towns and cities of which full-length poi-traits are con- tained in eveiy handbook; while the countiy, being enve- loped in a shroud of snow, debaiTed me from seeing any vaiiety of feature worthy of notice. I found my friend in Bufi'alo, with two Califomian reciTiits: Canadian gentle- men, who were most acceptable companions, being men of education and ability. Although the Califomian fever pre- vailed along the eastern seal)oard, I found, the further I went west, the more intensely it became ramified; the scepticism, too, that accompanied it along the coast, va- nished as I approached the Mississippi. There were several parties in process of formation in Buffalo, who had prospectuses published stating the nature of tlieir en- gagements, and setting forth their rules and bye-laws; but they were not exactly the style of men we chose to herd with for four months, so we determined to hold on until we got to St. Louis, imless we liapi)ened to meet more congenial spmts. As the lake navigation to Detroit was closed, witliout a hope of its opening for a month, we booked ourselves by a ft8 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, stage that travels from Niagara over Canada — a long and tedious route, but the only one practicable at the time — getting to the Falls by rail, where we stopped a few hours to sui^ey the celebrated cataract; but, like most other American mar\'els, it falls, in my mind, far short of its wondrous reputation. They are great falls, no doubt, mea- suring the body of water that tumbles over them ; but they are neither nearly so high, nor so beautiful, as many of those in Switzerland, Ireland, and Scotland, tliat I had already seen. I saw them, too, in their most attractive guise, cor- niced round with huge grotesque icicles, the rocks fantas- tically fretted in crisp sno^y drapeiy, and sheets of disen- gaged ice plunging momentarily into the seething abyss below; and though I was vastly pleased, I was not exactly stupified with amazement, much to the annoyance of some Yankee gentlemen who were viewing them at the same time, vowing " they whipped all creation in the w^ater land- scape line." They present a grand spectacle, I admit; but are not, to use Jonathan's own j)hrase, " quite all they are cracked u]) for." My admiration was much more largely drawn uj)on by the exquisitely delicate suspension-bridge that spans the rushing waters of the river, hanging at a distance in mid- air, as if by the slender threads of the silkwonn, discernible only by the frequent weavings of its tiny wires ; and even when approached and suneyed closely, looks rather as if it was intended as a thoroughfare for fairies than a human highway. Our luggage was tiTindled over in a barrow, but we were not jDeniiitted to follow until it reached the other side, which caused me to ask the toll-keeper did he not then consider it safe. " Oh, yes," he said, "perfectly safe; a ivoman crossed it the day before yesterday; but I must obey my orders." To this conclusive reasoning I made no reply, but waited until the porter reached the opposite side, wdiere I wished I was myself, without the gratifica- tion of viewing the foaming river through the wires. There was a clumsy stage vehicle w^aiting on the Cana- dian side, holding nine inside passengers, in rather uncom- fortable proximity with canvass flaps hanging down in lieu of windows, which neither answered to exclude the airs or admit the light. I never travelled in so disagreeable a conveyance; and, to make the matter w^orse, we were doomed to a long tenure of it, as, from the state of the FKOM N'EW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 29 roads, the winter now breaking up, we scarcely averaged a mile an hour, the wheels sinking the whole time up to tlie naves. The trip to Detroit occupied us nine days and nights, and I calculate that we walked at least half the dis- tance, being frequently called out in tlie middle of a cold raw night to ti-udge up to our knees through miiy roads, or have the vehicle stuck in the same spot all the time. We passed through some magnificent country aiound St. Margaret's, Hamilton, and London, where the faiins and famisteads are fully equal to any in the old countiy, and the land rated at as high a price. Detroit is a beautifully situated city, on the strait between Lakes Erie and St. Clair, but its progi-ess is retarded by the dogged obstinacy of the old French inhabitants, who own most of the pro- perty on which it stands, and, like tlie dog in the manger, will neither sell nor grant such leases as would induce peo- ple of entei-prise to invest their capital, nor will they im- prove it themselves; nevertlieless it is a fine and stimng city, presenting a veiy obvious contrast to tlie Canadian city of Windsor on the opposite side of tlie strait. I got from Detroit to Niles by railway; but thence to Chichago I was obliged, witli seven others, to travel in an open waggon. There are some comfortable and improv- ing fanners about Niles, and along tlie noithern part of Indiana to Michigan city. But after leaving this i)lace, which is a dull, stupid village, built amongst sand-hills, formed by the drift from the lake shores near which it stands, tlie road lies through a large forest; and as our progress was necessarily slow, there being no regular load, I took my rifle and stalled for a saunter, appointing to catch up at a distant landmark, and diverged off the path, in expectation of finding some deer, with which I heard the forest was well stocked; but after some homes' laborious beating about, without meeting game of any description, feathered or four-footed, I headed, as I thought, to the ap- pointed place. When I an-ived there, I could not find any indication of travel, and being veiy much tired, sat down for an hour's rest ; but as evening approached without any sign of the waggon, I became rather uneasy, firing my rifle at intervals ; and no shot being returned, I stioick off in a westerly direction, in hopes of crossing the trail, fagging over Hve miles without discovering a trace, until I came suddenly upon some Indians, who were in a swamp, kill- 80 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ing musk rats, the skin of which is of some little value. I would have retired, hut seeing they observed me, I went towards them, it being bad policy to betray apprehension, as it often leads to aggression where otherwise you might have escaped unmolested. I made signs to them that I had lost my way, but they were sulky and uncommunicative, and either did not understand my gestures, or would give themselves no trouble to inform me ; so I was obliged to rely on my own resources, still pursuing a westerly course, resign- edly considering how I should spend the night in the woods,, when I heard the tinkling of some bells in the distance,; and following the welcome sounds, found a large clearance and a little hut, in which there was a lone nigger woman, who came near a mile with me to point out a path that would lead me to where the few travellers who came that way were in the habit of stopping. It was three miles farther, and though there was very good moonlight, I had considerable difficulty in picking out the trail, which was a very faint one. I, however, proceeded slowly and cautiously, and when veiy nearly tired down, perceived a glimmering light, which pointed out the solitaiy hostelry, where my com- panions had put up. They were at supper, and in delibera- tion as to what com'se they should pursue regarding me as I made my appearance, greatly knocked up, and with a greater desire for rest than refreshment; but a savoury plate of stewed beef and a bowl of good coffee elicited a capacity I did not imagine I possessed. We reached Chichago next day, and found it in a state of partial destniction, from an unprecedented flood, that earned away stores, whanes, and piers, bursting with such violence in the inner harbour, that ships and steamers were stove in by the force with which they were jammed against each other. Chichago is one of the most rising towns in the Union ; and now that the canal connecting Lake Michi- gan with the Illinois and Mississippi rivers is open, must grow apace, as ships can, for the futiu'e, sail from the Gulf of St. Lawrence to the Gulf of Mexico by means of inland navigation, the Illinois being a fine navigable river, flowing into the Mississippi about fifty miles above St. Louis. Some of the best farming countiy in the States is in this region, particularly along the course of Fox and Eock Kivers, the produce of which comes to market in Chichago : while large tracts of prairie around the city are under culti- FBOM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 81 vatioii, producing the iiiiest description of grain and vege- tables. It is becoming a very favourite neighbom'hood for emigi^ants to settle in; and were I to take up my abode in the countiy, I should fix my quaiters hereabouts, witli land of superior quality, great facilities for transporting produce, and good markets. In walking over the common in the afternoon I witnessed a veiy melancholy occm-rence, in the woimding of a lady of great respectability, who was leading her child by the hand for an evening stroll, when she was shot quite close to me by a fellow who, witli a number of otliers, was indulging in rifle practice. He at fii*st made an attempt to run for the suburbs, but aftei-w^ards waited until he was arrested. When I left next day, I heiu'd the poor sufferer s condition was nearly hopeless; so tliat people in tliat countiy, in- clined for an after-dinner saunter, had better arrange their affairs in the first instance, for I undei-staijd accidents of this description are of veiy frequent occm'rence. The next day's stage lay over a low prairie, which pre- sented a sui-face of pools, lakes, and flashes, from the late thaws, that made it more a water tlian a land journey, and, as the fellow said who agreed to work his passage by driving canal hoi*ses, " I might as well walk as be alter trudging in that manner;" being compelled to proceed most of the way on foot, as the horses were unable to pull tlie waggon through the miry ground; while, to add to our grievances, we were some miles from our quaiters at sundo^v^l, and in endeavouring to pick out the most favourable wading places in the gloaming, were frequently a-swim in crossing the sloughs. How^ever, we reached an old Dutch settler s in safety, where we billeted ourselves for the night. The following day we crossed a rough but interesting country parallel witli the canal, and got to Juliett, a new town, in a tremendous thunderstonn. It was om^ intention to perfonn the remainder of the journey to Peru by water in a small skiff; but the river was so sw^ollen we were re- commended to put up with the inconveniences of an infamous road, and a worse conveyance, rather than risk tlie current. A pair of horses w^as all we could muster : one of which was as lame as a tree, making a team barely equal to the luggage ; for it was only on finii level ground, and that in tlieir tuni, that the passengers got a lift; nor could we pro- cure any change at the village where we spent the night. 32 ACROSS THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS, SO that there was no alternative hut take the same convey- ance on to Ottaway: a nice thriving young town, seated at the confluence of the Fox and IlHnois rivers, and remark- able for the quantities of window-sashes made there ; not in large establishments, but by a number of individual tradesmen, who send immense supplies to St. Louis. On inquiring the reason why sashwork was almost the exclusive employment, I had none assigned beyond this: that one carpenter, a few years back, began the trade, and as he succeeded, others commenced tlie same line of business, others still constantly following, until it acquired the pre- eminence it now enjoys in that branch of trade. The canal enters the river a little below the town, and a mile further down is the city of PeiTi, one of the filthiest and most abominable holes I ever set my foot in. It is one of those places got up by speculation ; and I understand such was the rage at one time to become possessed of lots there, that they rose higher than in the oldest and most flourishing cities in the States. But the bubble burst, and Peru, which was to have been worthy of its ambitious name, is now little better than an aggregation of noisome styes. It, however, boasts a post-oflice amongst its public institutions ; but the postmaster is saved the rent of a house by canying the mail in his hat, which he delivers as he chances to meet the parties in the street. We here got the steamer to St. Louis, which was crowded with a most motley, piebald lot of passengers, most of whom were bound for California, some by the land route, and othei^s by New Orleans and Chagres. The Illinois is a splendid river, free, for the most paii:, from any obstinictions to navigation, such as shoals, snags, or sawyers, with a swift cun-ent, and literally strewed with water-fowl, mostly of the duck tribe. It is generally densely timbered along the banks, so that there are no fine views, and even in the few open places the scenery is not beyond an ordinaiy character. Its waters were prodigiously swollen at that time ; and at several of the little settlements at which we stopped to take in cargo, we came alongside the stores, and received the goods from the second, and, in some instances, from the third story. Our progi^ess was very' much retarded by those numerous stoppages, for we did not pass a solitaiy shanty that a shore bell (the signal of goods for shipment) was not rung, much to the annoyance of the passengers. Coal was FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 33 our fuel all the way, supplied at the different stations, w^hich abounds, and of a fine quality, along the course of the Il- linois, in a measure accounting for the continuance of the dense forests, as it is used in preference to wood. Towards the close of the second day, as the shades of evening were beginning to settle do^vn, we observed a halo above the horizon, in the direction where the sun had sunk ; but imagining it emanated from that luminaiy we thought notliing of it, till it became quite apparent, as we advanced, tliat it was a lurid flame, arising from some great burnnig pile. A little further, and the confused hum of voices came along the still calm air : settlers enjoying some meny mak- ing round their large log fires. But no ! those ai-e not the sounds of glee and mirth. Hai'k! there is anxiety in that shout: there, that is surely the scream of female terror. Yes; there is no mistaking it now; those are tlie hurried words of command ; a caUistrophe has taken place ; and as we rounded a bend of tlie river we saw the funeral pile of a steamer, the flames roaring and crackling, numbers of human beings clustered in tlie anns and branches of the trees that stood in tlie flood where she was driven when the flre was discovered, and many standing in the water up to tlieir annpits, holding up females and children. It was a terrific sight to contemplate, for the sad wails impressed us> with the melancholy conviction that human life was involved in the accident. We durst not approach too closely, but sent our boats off to relieve tlie sufferers, taking on board the ladies and children first; and long before the last maa was on our deck, there was not a fragment of the ill-fated boat to be seen: the dark waters had closed over the last vestige of her hull. Providence, however, benignly spared all souls. She was a superb new boat, owned by the captain, a young man whose all was embarked in her; he was just man'ied to a lovely girl, and was spending the first phase of the honeymoon on board the virgin craft, that had too, on the same morning, espoused her destined element, and sailed proudly and gaily away from St. Louis, with colours flying, bearing on her bosom the bridal party : sweet con- cmTence, aiTanged by the bridegroom in trustful lovingness of his youthful partner. They launched out together on the stream of life in the vessel of tlieir hopes, and in the fair prospect that shone before them anticipated no reverse. c 34 ACEOSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, It would have been a slighting of kind Fortune to doubt her continuous sincerity by insuring the boat; but tlie same sun that beamed on their first essay, sunk sadly upon their fortunes. The poor captain bore his losses bravely; and if a shade of melancholy passed his brow, it was more in consequence of his wife's dejection than at the untimely wreck of his entire prof)erty. The great accession of pas- sengers left us in a very crowded state; so much so, that we had four sets of company at each meal; but w^e did not suffer the inconvenience long, as we reached St. Louis the evening of the next day. St. Louis is a great commercial city, and is already styled the Queen of the West, from the rapidity of its growth and the steady increase of its commerce. The streets in the older parts of the towTi are, unfortunately, rather narro^^' for the throng of business; but all the modern ones are laid out with great regularity, and sufficient width for am- tlioroughfare, built in a substantial and ornate style of architecture. The quays, however — the great arena of trade — are altogether too circumscribed for the require- ments of the great commerce of the place, and present r. scene of everlasting and indescribable confusion, from th( jostling and jamming of carts and waggons, and the shout- ing and altercation of the nigger teamsters ; nor from the high value of property in the neighbourhood, and the quality of the stores and buildings along with it, does there appear to be much prospect of amendment in that respect. FSOM NEW YOEK TO CALIFORNIA. 85 CHAPTEE III. Pleasing Aspect of Slavery at St. Louis — Meet an Old Schoolfellow by accident there — Takes me to see the Lions — Get our full Complement of Recruits — Decline Equipping until we reach the Frontier Towns — Town filled with Californian Placards — Streets lined with Californian Implements — Newspapers crammed with Californian Advertisements — Hold a meeting of the Company, at which I was elected Captain — All Novices in Desert-Travelling — Adopt a Costume — Give a Dinner to our Friends — Attend a Nigger 15all — Description of the Assembly — Get Turned Out — The Cause Explained — Start for Independence — Steam-boat Company — Their Tastes and Habits — The Missouri River and its Settlers — AVild Fowl ; Wild Turkey — Rifle Practice^-JelVerson City, the Capital of Missouri — Steam-boat Race; Nervous AflFair — Study of American Customs — Left behind at Boonville — Exciting Race — Independence — Get our Outfit — Purchase Mules, Horses, and Waggons^Dlfficulty of Managing our Mules — Nigger Mode of deal- ing with them — Start for the Line — Indian Tribes; their Decline —Ravenous Pigs— Arrangement of Duties. At St. Louis I got, for tJie first time, faii'ly into the region of slaveiy, the black, muggy face and woolly head of the nigger meeting me at eveiy turn. Every menial duty, and nearly all labour, are perfonned by this nice, who, slaves though they be, seem a jolly, contented set, generally on the broad grin, poking fim and jokes at one anotlier; ren- dering it the next thing to impossible to pity their deplor- able state, all one can do, while they tliemselves appear so provokingly hai)py. But I was obliged to soothe my con- science by admitting to it, that notwithstanding tlie perverse contentment of those unfortunate beings, slaveiy in the abstract and in theory i& a sinful, hideous, and abominable institution. I met here an old friend and schoolfellow% F. W , who is established in the provision tradej which is the leading business of the j^lace. It is quite a sight, visiting some of the stupendous curing establishments, to obseiTe the gigantic scale on which they are carried on, and the new and curious contrivances employed in the process by which a pig is killed, scalded, cut up, and re- posing in salt, in the twinkling of an eye, so that the echoes of his last grunt have not -svell died away ere he is trans- 36 ACKOSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, muted into bacon. All strangers visit those places as they do Barclay and Perkins's of London, or Guinness' of Dublin. In coming down the Illinois I made acquaintance of eleven young men, lately from England, bound for Cali- fornia; persons of respectability and education, with means, too, to fit out according to the standard my other friends and I had chalked out. We seemed mutually attracted to each other, and the moment the idea of union was broached they immediately acquiesced, making our muster fifteen; while an accession of ten more at the City Hotel of the same class completed the number we desired — twenty-five, all told; eight of whom were Yankees, two Scotchmen, and two Irishmen, leaving England represented in our party in the ratio of two to one. We first intended to fit out in St. Louis, lest the traders in the two towns on the extreme frontier might take ad- vantage of our having no other resource, and nni up prices; but my friend, Mr. W , recommended us, at all events, to postpone the purchase of mules and waggons until we reached IndejDendence, as it has been for years back the great starting point for the Sante Fe and Chihualiua traders, where trained and seasoned animals were more readily pro- cured, and waggons suitable to the plains, built by men who understood, from long exjierience, all the requirements of such vehicles. As I before remarked, the farther west I proceeded, the more intense became the Califoniian fever. California met you here at eveiy turn, eveiy comer, eveiy dead wall; every post and pillar was labelled with Californian placards. The shops seemed to contain nothing but articles for Cali- fornia. As you proceeded along the flagways, you required great circumspection, lest your coat-tails should be whisked into some of the multifarious Californian gold- washing machines, kept in perpetual motion by little ebony cherubs singing — O Susanna! don't you cry for me? I'm going to California with my wash-bowl on my knee. Californian advertisements, and extracts from Californian letters, filled all the newspai)ers; and "Are you for Cali- fornia?" was the constantly recumng question of the day; so that one would almost imagine the whole city was on wheels bound for that attractive re^rion. FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 37 Acting on Mr. W 's advice, we only jiurchased our rifles, pistols, broadswords, and bowie-knives there; but as our company was complete, it was resolved to Jiold a meet- ing to discuss the bill of fare, the niles of travel, and elect a captain to see them enforced, the ballot for which post of honour terminated in my favour by a unanimous vote; and, though I felt gratified by the compliment. I did not exactly relish the responsibility, never having had any ex- perience in desert- travelling ; nor should I have accej^ted it, only that all were equally inexperienced, and some one should undertake the duty. It w^as agreed to wear, in as far as we could, a imiform costume, gi^een caps and jackets, with white trousers ; and in selecting all our other ai>point- meiits, we endeavoured to have tliem as similar as possible. We gave a dinner the evening before we left to our friends and acquaintances at St. Louis, at which we had a great deal of Califomian spouting and singing; but I con- trived to get away early with Mr. W , to attend a nigger ball, in honour of some African festival, which I was given to understand would be a rare treat to a foreigner, unused to the imitative gentility of the sable race. It is a matter of some difficulty for whites to get admission to those reunions, as jokes and tricks have often resulted from their presence; besides which, the niggers conceive they only desire to attend in order to ridicule them. How- ever, ]\Ir. \V got tickets through some of his own darkies, and we were admitted, Init not without a rigid scrutiny. Although it was full nine o'clock when we en- tered, there was no one in the ball-room but the stewards, sti'utting about in all the pride of lofty shirt-collars and decorations ; for this assembly of ''All-hlacks " had their cor- rect notions about the fashionable propriety of late hours as well as the titled frequenters of Willis's Great Eooms. Some of the earliest settings-down took place shortly after our aii-ival, tlie ladies, in low dresses tightened round the waist wdth an indentation more like a girth than a pair of stays; all wearing little kerchiefs of bright colours round their necks, with a sort of semi-turban on the head, of a re- gular rainbow complexion ; and drops, of such dimensions and gravity as elongated the ears into the shape of jargonelle pears. Men and women wore white gloves, and their faces shone with a polish as if they washed in copal varnish for the occasion. There was also a deal of perfumeiy in requi- 38 ACROSS THE EOCKY MOUXTAIXS, sition, but eau de Cologne and lavender-water soon became too strongly diluted with other essences to retain their virtues, bringing to mind Dean Swift's couplet — Not all Arabia's spices would sufficient be; Thou smeil'st not of their sweets — they stink of thee. The orchestra was at the end of the room, and in front of it a refreshment counter, where mint juleps and oyster patties were served out. There were several old people amongst the company, all of whom had either a pair of bones or a tin rattle in the head of their canes, to beat time, as they could not dance. Presently the fiddles and banjos struck up, when the floor was quickly tenanted; a move- ment very soon followed by a huiTicane of sneezing, during which I also caught the infection; but the noise of those nasal con\Tilsions was partly dro^\Tied as the "fun became fast and furious," raising up a dust which, seizing every- body by the nose, set musicians, dancers, and spectators into such a paroxysm of sneezing as brought all simulta- neously to a full stop. The ladies seemed ill at ease, too, between the shoulders, and many a fair heel was spasmodi- cally uplifted to allay the irritation on the other leg, while others kept nippiiig their dresses, as if to annihilate some foreign intruder in the lining : in fact, dancing and fiddling now became completely merged in sneezing and scratching. I felt there was foul play somewhere, for my shins itched most irresistibly ; but I very soon found that the suspicion alit upon Mr. W and myself, as the stewards in a body came up to us, sneezing, and gave us to understand, sneez- ing, the sooner we retired the better for our comfort and safety, as there was a great and general inclination to inflict condign punishment on us for what we had done. There w^as no use in attempting an explanation in the tempest of sneezing, and left this polished society to sneeze and scratch themselves to their hearts' content. We, however, ascer- tained next morning that some mischievoiis wags managed to get into the ball-room during the day, and dredged the floor with hellebore and cayenne, which, sent floating in tlie atmosphere by the beating of the dancers, produced the annoying results that led to our ejection. The journey from St. Louis to Independence is accom- plished by water; so we secured our berths on board the Sacramento, and though I was now tolerably well seasoned FKOM NEW YOEK TO CALIFORNIA. dtt to the vexations of travel, there was such a mob on board the boat, I would rather have walked, could I so have managed it, than be stowed away with them for a week. We had every vaiiety of chai'acter, political and otherwise, Whig, Democrat, Locofoco, Loafer, Owner, and Abolition- ist, in continual disputation, wi*angling about politics, contending about the merits of their respective champions, and only coinciding in their mode of niimufacturing tobacco juice. And I must say, all I before saw in that way was merely a type of the custom as compared with its invete- racy there ; for they ate into a cake of tobacco as an English ploughman would into a cut of cheese, and this engendered such copious secretions of saliva, tliat tlie bilious cascades streamed out of the scuttle-hole, staining the painted sides of the vessel like yellow-ochre, and smearing tlie deck with disgusting blotches, which rendered footing perfectly inse- cm-e. The distinguishing feature of the habit being so abominably filthy, a gentleman on board suggested guano as a substitute, being "quite as cheap and twice as nasty." We staled twenty-five miles up the Mississippi, where its <;lear watei's receive tlie turbid Missouri, up whose stream our course lay for near four hundred miles. At the point of junction it is much the hirger river of the two, though it yields up its name to its more slender partner. We lay to ever}^ night, for the snags and sawyers on it are so nu- merous and foimidable, no pilot would undertake to run after sunset, unless witli a full moon and a cloudless sky. The country along its banks is, for the most part, tliicldy wooded and level, the soil generally rich and fertile ; but it is excessively unhealthy, and the inhabitants or settlers are a gaunt race, witli drab complexions, the exact reflection of the muddy current. It is not from the water, I believe, they imbibe their maladies ; for when it is allowed to settle, although it loses its consistence, it retams its colour, and makes a well-tasted wholesome beverage. There are num- bers of dry bars tliroughout the entire river, which keep shifting, and tlius changing the channel perpetually. They are covered witli wild geese exclusively, for during tlie en- tire sail we never saw any other description of water-fowl, the ducks seeming to have their dominion on the limpid Illinois, and the geese their kingdom on the Missouri. There w^ere plenty of wild turkeys in the woods ; but from a specimen that one of our passengers shot, they are not 40 ACROSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, here a very desirable bird, for it was all shanks and wings ; the steward, to whom it was given to prepare for table, asserting " the tarnation critter would soak more butter in basting than it was worth." I suspect, however, it must have been raised in the regions of malaria, for there is no finer or more delicate fowl when you get it in condition, as I afterwards did when crossing the plains. We frequently saw deer swimming across, both ahead and astern of us, which afforded the Californians fine opportunities for rifle practice : indeed, throughout each day it was an uninter- mitting fusillade, except at meal hours; and from the reck- less manner in which some directed their discharges, and the awkward w^y in which others handled their guns, it was next to a miracle that some serious accident did not take j)lace, either on hoard or on shore. We i^assed Mountpleasant as we ascended the stream, and Jefferson City, the cajiital of the State of Missouri, where we waited sufficiently long to explore the place. It is a small town, without much trade, or anything deserving of notice but the Senate House, which is more remarkable for its size and elevated position than its architectural taste. While lying here we*were overhauled by another boat be- longing to an opposition company, and as soon as she was discovered th^e bell was iTing violently for "all on board," and the fires were heaped with fuel for a race. I am an ad- vocate for speedy travelling, and like the sensation quite as much as Dr. Johnson, provided I am seated in a "post chaise;" but in this instance there was a large drawback on my pleasure, for instead of sitting behind a docile team, I was cheek-by-jowl with a high-pressure engine, in danger •of being cooked to a bubble in hot steam, or blown as food for fishes into the cold river. I looked anxiously to the shore, and felt a longing desire for a stroll in the woods, which became more intense as the black smoke gurgled out of the funnel; for though I did not study the science of "Fumography," in Paul Dogherty's school, by which "a man can tell by the smoke from the kitchen chimney what his neighbour has for dinner," I was sufficiently familiar with the murky element to know there was an explosion in our pot if we persevered much longer. We have it on the authority of our ancestors, that a "hen on a hot griddle betrays a world of uneasiness," and I thought of the troubles -of the poor bird as I fidgeted about the deck, with the hot FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 41 resin sticking to my shoe soles ; while to aggravate the cir- cumstancas of our danger, though it w^as very evident we had no chance with our opponent, the order was still to lieave on more coal and tar staves; and as she drew quite close upon our starhoard quarter, the word was passed to " tr}' a side of fat hacon;" but the question of speed being perfectly decided, the passengers unanimously remons- trated, and compelled the captain to postpone "thebustin"' till some more favourable opportunity. From the number we had on board, and the consequent consumption of food, our stock of provisions began to mn low, so that at the second and third tables there was neither milk nor butter, nor a sufficiency of fresh meat: a state of things which begat a more active competition than usual to secure places at the iirst table, making it a source of great danger to enter into the strife when the bell rang. I was generally content to await tlie second class ; and as I stood behind the more fortunate passengers, waiting for a vacant chair, had an excellent opportunity of studying the West- em mode of dinner tactics; when it stinick me forcibly that the only way of ensuring expedition is to learn to per- form all the evolutions with the same implement, a practice in which they all seemed adepts ; first cutting the morsel with their knives, then feathering them, sailor fashion, and tucking in with them meat and vegetables at one and the same time, slipping it from the mouth into the " sarse," or salt-cellar, without losing a moment, a thing altogether im- possible were they to wait to use the spoon. Nor do they l^ause for a change of plates, as if the several edibles and esculents went into different abdominal compartments ; but with strong common sense and true republican abhorrence of distinctions, make one answer all the purposes: placing their fish, flesh, and fowl, molasses and melted butter, vege- tables and bread, in proximate rotation ; and instead of the slovenly foshion of leaving stagnant juices to settle and congeal, they then wipe all diy with a sponge of soft bread, wiiich senes as the tombstone of the meal, and retire from the table, without ^^liiting to pick their teeth with their tobacco knives, an operation in which they apj)ear to take great delight, si)ending a pleasurable post-prandial half hour in digging out the cavities and licking the blades. We stopped at Boonville, a very nice little town, to get a fresh supj^ly of provisions, when a lot of us took advan- 42 ACROSS THE EOCIvY MOUNTAINS, tage of the period to look at a drove of mules, a dealer said he had in a padlock beyond the to^vn. On examining them we found they were all of the American breed, which did not suit, and returned leisurely towards the quay ; but on getting to the hill overlooking the river we saw the steamer under way, and a considerable distance up stream. Our iirst idea was to run and engage a boat to follow; but then the absurdity of giving chase to a steamer with oars soon again flashed upon us ; so with one impulse we started at a quick run along the hill-side, entering a thick forest be- yond the town, where we were vexatiously retarded by l3rush and logs. About three miles up, the current of the river was fortunately concentrated into a channel betwixt an island and the shore, and ran with such exceeding velo- city that the steamer could do little more than stem it; so we soon began to close upon her, getting within hail before she got through the gut; but there was a long tail to our party, some being so far beliind, the captain was with diffi- culty prevailed on to wait for them. We reached Lexing- ton the same night, which is a stimng, thriving town, veiy prettily situated, with a fine and well settled country behind it; and next evening got to the point of debarkation, about three miles from the town of Independence, where a scene of bustle and confusion ensued it would not be easy to describe, as the time of staying was limited, tlie boat being bound to St. Joseph, sixty miles higher up. Every man acted as his o^vn porter, and in the numerous collisions on the gangway, several aiticles dropped over. One en- counter took place in which the four belligerents stumbled into the river, which, though not deep enough to endanger their lives, had the effect of cooling their u'ascibility. Independence we found precisely what Mr. W der scribed it: abundantly supplied witli every article requisite for our outfit. We placed ourselves entirely in tlie hands of Mr. White, who is extensively engaged in the Mexican tirade, with large branch establishments at Santa Fe and Chihanha, and having crossed the plains several times to those places, was, from his experience, enabled to give us many useful suggestions. We secured from his waggon- builder five of his best light waggons, several of which he had made in anticipation of the demand, and on his recom- mendation, went out to the residence of Colonel Ealston to purchase our mules. He had several hundred, principally FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 4S - of Mexicnn breed, out of which we made a selection of fort^^-five, being six for each team, and three spare ones to eacii waggon, as relief animals, in case of fagging or acci- dent. We also purchased three riding-horses for each mess, making fifteen, and a bell-mare to keep the mules together, as, strange to say, tliey form a peculiar attachment to a horse, and still greater to a mare; the bell-mare they will follow through fire or water, superseding the necessity of herding or driving them. In cases of fright, they crowd and crouch round her like a flock of sheep, as if they ex- pected protection, betraying, too, at times, a most amusing jealousy in endeavouring to get next her as they travel along; nipping, biting, and kicking each other, while tlie object of their affection treats them witli the greatest disdain, spum- ing their advances with her heels, which, however, never provokes retaliation, though they are quick enough to re- sent an injury amongst themselves. Our animals in all amounted to sixty-one, and we ap- pointed Easter Monday as the day to come and take them away; mean time, we were veiy industrious in getting our other supplies. The town of Independence is nicely placed on elevated gi'ound, gently declining all around, with finely- timbered hills sweljing up beyond tlie slopes, which now presented a most animated appearance, their sides in every direction being studded with the tents of intending emigrants, with their animals picketed about, going to and fro all day, engaged in making preparations for their ar duous journey; in the evening especially, when the several camp-fires were lighted up to cook the evening meal, the dusky forms flitting across the light, which illuminated, with its lurid glare, the giT.nd natural arcades formed by the stately timber, it was a sight strange yet pleasing to look upon. Soft music, too, with its mellowing charai, came gently floating on the evening zephyr across the vale, adding its sweet interest to the scene. They were divided into several companies, some intending to travel with oxen, some with mules, all canvassing for adherents, in order to have as large trains as possible to be able to meet any Indian attack. Most of the companies numbered thirty messes, or waggons, and several as high as fifty, while our little band only counted fiYe ; but we were well equijDped, each man canying in his belt a revolver, a sword, and bowie-knife; the mounted men having besides a pair of 44 ACROSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, holster-pistols and a rifle slung from the horn of their sad- dles, over and above which there were several double and single-shot guns and rifles suspended in the waggons, in loops, near the fore-part, wdiere they would be easily acces- sible in case of attack. Few of the others intended starting before the first of May, as the spring was unusually backward, and they ap- prehended a scarcity of feed; but on Easter Monday we went out to Colonel Ealston's for the animals, having en- gaged an experienced teamster and two nigger assistants to help us. We had not much trouble in catching them, after driving them into an angle of the enclosure, where we got hold of the bell-mare, which was led quietly into town with her train of mules at her heels, leaving us the saddle-horses to ride. When we got in we drove them into a large railed yard, which we hired for the purpose of getting them into harness, and at this point our real troubles commenced ; I may add, too, our pains and penalties, for there w^as not one out of the entire who escaped unscathed from the task. They were a most refractoiy lot to deal with; not an animal of the batch letting on the gear without a fierce struggle, frequently mixed up with amusement; for it was most laughable to see a regular set-to betwixt a nigger and one of the mules : the mule rearing and lifting up Sambo, hang ing on by the ear, into the air, who, the moment he reached the ground, ran at the delinquent with his head like a ram, butting him in the ribs, sometimes with such force as to completely stun "de dam son ob a jackass," and in bad cases seizing the lug in his teeth, and holding on like grim death, while a collar was fitting or a breeching being adjusted. It was tolerably late in the day before our five teams were hitched up and ready for the road ; but as we got into line, a finely mounted and accoutred little troop, a man on each side of e\erj waggon, in the plain but handsome uni- form, we looked rather gay, and had a respectable throng about us, who raised a valedictory and admiring cheer as we moved off, only twenty-five strong, nearly three weeks in advance of the remainder of the emigration. We only travelled eight miles, taking up our quarters near Colonel Eussell's rendezvous, who was to lead a ver}^ large company across the plains that season. It was a fine night, our good stars seeming to shine auspiciously upon us. Discipline FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 45 was now commenced, and guard relieved every two hours. Next morning we had another series of battles with the mules; but we got them in, and in motion, without any breakage or accident, and proceeded over twelve miles of magnificent country to the Line : I don't mean the great globular girdle from which Mrs. Ramsbottom would give her eyes to get a few yards for a lodck bell-pull, but the line of demai'cation between the pale-face and the Indian : tlie extreme margin of civilisation, the bomidary agreed upon in solemn treaty between the government of the United States and tlie convocation of desert chieftains, as tlie last limit of encroachment, the point at which the plough of the hardy settler was to stop, where the hunting-ground of the red-sldn commenced, stretching away into illimitable space. The tribes close by the border are tlie Shawnees and Delawares, immediately beyond whom, on the Kansas, are tlie Pottawottomees : all of whom are partly Christianised, and speak and understand a little English; but neither pre- cept, example, nor encouragement, can convert them into useful or industrious habits ; for though game has become very scarce on the frontier prairies, they prefer depending for sustenance on its precarious supply to raising food from the soil. They receive a pension from the States for the ground they have yielded up west of the Mississippi, which is paid them quarterly, through the medium of States* officers, called Indian agents, whose duty it is also to pre- vent any whites from settling beyond the boundary, unless those who by iiitennarriage get tracts in right of their squaws. Smiths and carpenters, paid by tlie States, are settled at convenient points as far as the Kansas River, but not beyond, to make ploughs, farming implements, doors,, sashes, and house furniture, or whatever else the Indians may require ; but their labour is not much sought for in those matters : they are principally employed in doctoring old guns and powder-flasks, and repairing bridles, spurs, and stiri*up-irons, as those neighbouring tribes pride them- selves on the appearance and efficiency of such-like arti- cles. They are kind and harmless, robust and good-look- ing, but excessively addicted to drink when within their ' reach. We had them constantly in our camp, and spirits was tlie only thing they appeared to desiderate. We had here a fine field for training: our mules, as we 46 ACROSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, could start off in any direction without fear of an overset from gripe or gullev; so every morning, the first thing after breakfast, we all mustered to harness them, and give tliem a good drive, lest idleness should cause them to re- lapse into their original mulishness. We waited here hxe days, and hired an ox-waggon, laden with corn for feed, to accompany us as far as the Kansas, as the grass was so short it w^ould not afford sufficient pasture. During our short stay we fed. the stock almost exclusively on com, which we got on very moderate terms from the neighbour- ing farmers. Mules are exceedingly fond of it, particularly in the cob, and shell it off most cunningly, without losing a grain. There is a tavern built at the point of departure called the House of Refuge, one-half of it being beyond the Line, and, consequently, beyond the pale of United States' laws ; so that, once within that wing, you are beyond the grasp of the sheriff. It is, I understand, generally well tenanted, and at the time of my visit had not a corner left for a costive debtor. We were confoundedly annoyed, morning and evening, by hordes of half-wild hogs, which the settlers suffer to propagate ad infinitum in the woods ; a most unsightly ani- mal: long and stilty, like the old Milesian pig, but with mane and tusks peculiarly wild-boarish. They are bold as brass, and fierce as tigers when provoked, displaying con- siderable sagacity as well ; for although they were not to be seen during the day, they came punctually morning and evening as we were feeding our mules and horses, devour- ing the corn which we threw upon the ground. Some of the mules kept the interlopers at bay ; but it required our united efforts, armed with great bludgeons, to get the re- mainder a quiet repast; and in doing so we were frequently turned upon by those ferocious brutes, who imbued me, during my short sojourn in their neighbourhood, with a j)erfectly Jewish antipathy to the whole swinish multitude. In our camp on the Line we became regularly drilled into the duties and customs of our new life, and, by mutual agreement, took upon ourselves the several branches of labour involved in the journey: some consenting to drive, some to cook, others undertaking to wash, patch, and mend clothes, harness, &c. &c. &c. but all obliged to take their regular spells at guard. FROM KEW YORK TO CALIFORNLi. 47 CHAPTER lY. start Monday, I61h April — Feeling on launching out on tlio Prairie — Description of tlie Scene — The Lone Elm — Disappointment — Bull Creek — Soaldng lUin Storm Pleasing Scenery — Stick in the Mud — Unpleasant Quarters — Wolfish Serenade -.Indian Creek — Handsome Landscape — Indian \isit — Crossing of the Waka- rusa: its Difficulties — Coon Point — Prairie Spring— Game — Absence of tli- Buffalo : the Cause — Effect on Indian Population — The Shonganong — Bad Tra- velling — Break an Axle — Indian Settlement— Break a Tongue — Alarming Acci- dent — Blacksmith's Shop and Residence — Trouble about getting him to Work — Reach the Kansas — Risk of Crossing — Catch some Fish — Beautiful Valley of the Kansas — Trading Post — Style of Trading tliere — Indian Fop3 — Ferry of the Kansas — Reflections — French Catholic Mission — Devotedness of the Rev. Father to bis Flock and Pupils — Construct a temporary Viaduct — Approach the Pawnee Nation — Their Habits and Propensities — Attempt to Steal our Animals — "The Vermilion" — Indian Interposition — Shoot Birds resembling "Woodcock — Number of Wolves — Disappointment about the Position of the Big Blue — Bad Camping Ground — Miss one of our Men — Protracted and fatiguing Search — Cause of bis Straying — Directions to preveiit such Occurrences for the Future. On Monday, the 16th of April, we fairly launched out on our long and arduous journey, like a small fleet leaving a roadstead for the vast and trackless ocean, and soon left in the dim distance the last haunts of our civilised hrethi^en. An inexpressible feeling of silent contemplation seemed to penade the entire company, as we proceeded without ex- changing an obsen'ation for some hours. It was the first time that any of us had traversed the lonely j^athways of tlie desert; and the solemn stillness of uninvaded nature, the measureless immensity of the regions around us, fenced oaily by the horizon, produced a contrast most striking and impressive, giving birtli to emotions that required to be cra- dled in thought and reflection before they took flight in utterance. As I cast my eye over the broad smface of the prairie it looked like a perfect level; still it is a series of immense luidulations, like the huge lazy swells of the Atlantic in a calm. Vegetation was only beginning to sprout ; but though the herbage was short it was deliciously green : there was 48 ACEOSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, no object to. break the monotony of the view: no hill, no mound, no crag nor bush — until we came in sight of The Lone Elm : a solitary tree, that stands upon the margin of a pool, like an outcast from the forest. We approached the water as we would an unexpected banquet, but, to our great mortification, found the putrid carcase of an ox rotting in the middle of it, emitting a stench that even caused our animals to taste it daintily. We reached a camping ground twenty-eight miles from the frontier, called Bull Creek, the point where the Santa Fe trail diverges in a south- Avesterly direction, and found tolerable grass about the stream, with a miserable habitation, and an Indian attempt at cultiva- tion. Though favoured with a fine day, as night- came on, black heavy clouds and floating masses of watery vapour- gave indication of a storm, which burst upon us just as we sat to supper, blowing a hurricane, and teeming down tor- rents of rain. It was perfectly useless to attempt pitching" our tents, as they would be bloAvn dow^n; besides, the ground was ininning over with water, so that we could not sleep on it. We therefore took shelter in our waggons ; and though I was thoroughly soaked when my guard was relieved, I went to sleep in my wet clothes, in a position not veiy conducive to repose, and awoke in the morning- without any symptom of cold or sickness: a proceeding ' that would have been regai'ded at home as a species of sui- cide. The morning opened finely, and we were after breakfasii and in motion before seven o'clock; but the gi'ound, satu- rated with the heavy rain, made the draught very severe. The countiy over which we passed to-day was more inte- resting, rising into more elevated slopes, and pleasingly diversified by the belts of timber that fringed the stream which ran across our path. It rather surprised me to find those rivulets so few and insignificant, considering the vast amount of drainage they have to carry ofi"; which shows there must be a very porous subsoil : for tlie deluge of the previous night had no perceptible efi'ect on their current. We expected to reach the Wakarusa that night; but in crossing a dell where the w^ater lodged, our waggons got so embedded in the mud, and the footing for the mules be- came so soft and bad, w^e were obliged to completely unload them, and carry the contents on our backs in small loads FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 49 over to where there was firm gi'ound, which occupied us until dark, necessitating us to take up our quarters on the spot, without water, except that which welled up in the waggon tracks or wheel ruts, which did not impart a very agreeable flavour to our coffee ; but we had an excellent substitute for fire-wood in the diy weeds that covered the swamp, which ignited readily, thro^ving out a great heat and a brilliant light, and, I suppose, attracting packs of wolves, who favoured us with a most tismal serenade during supper, most provokingly prolonging it throughout the night, to the confusion of the dreamers, and rendering it necessaiy to have a shaip look-out for the harness, for those ravenous animals would tear up all the softer por- tions of the leather unless they were driven off. Next day we made a short stage, coming upon a fine fer- tile bottom, where, for the first time, we met anything like a growth of new grass. It was too tempting to pass by, as I thought a good cool repast after the diy, wanii com feed- ing, would be refreshing and invigorating to our animals. There was, besides a further temptation in the wild love- Imess of the spot, with a limpid rivulet, called Indian Creek, flowing along the base of a bold bluff, capped with timber, which held the sweet meadow in its eml)race, on whose bosom the indigo plant, with its pale blue flower, and the w^ild pink verbena, were just beginning to unfold their beauties, spixngling the verdant cai-pet with their variegated hues. In the distance, to the south-east, a dense wood bounded the view, constituting a landscape that would not fail to chaiTu the most enthusiastic admirer of natural sceneiy. We halted a second day in this lovely neighbour- hood, and had a visit from some Indians, whose huts were in the forest for the convenience of game, the deer being con- strained to resort to the wood for pasture. As the natives in those districts burn the gi-ass on the plains in order to concentrate them into a species of battue, they did not desire any food, but would take brandy if we gave it them : they were, however, content and grateful for some small presents of tobacco and beads. The Wakarusa was only ii\e miles distant; but there were several sloughs that crossed our route, compelling us 10 take long detours to avoid them, making our actual advance so inconsiderable, that it was noon before we got to the high banks overhanging that river, which is of a D 60 ACEOSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, tolerable size compared with the other creeks and rivulets we passed. I should mention that the term " Creek" is applied in western prairie life to little streams or brooks, though its general signification is that of bay or indenta- tion. The descent was a matter of extreme difficulty, from its excessive steepness and the sinuosities of the path; so we took out the two lead spans from each waggon, locked both hind-wheels, and held back with ropes attached to the axle; but even with these precautions it w^as a very risky undertaldng. I stationed double teams at the bottom, hitching them to the waggons before they got time to sink, which pulled tliem over, and up the opposite banks, by a liberal aj^plication of whipcord, and a storm of shouting and hallooing, at strange variance mth the usual repose of the locality. This sort of obstacles materially enhanced the difficulties of our mai'ch, and made large gaps in our slow progress of waggon travelling. The country now for some miles became hilly and broken, covered with a debris of gravel and loose round stones, of a dark reddish tint. There was one very elevated bluff, called Coon Point, at the foot of which stands an abyss, with very good water; but we pushed on to a place called Prairie Spring, situated at the head of a grassy ravine, from which we started a small herd of deer that were slaking their thirst at the clear fountain. One of our party also flushed and shot a brace of prairie hens : a fine bird, somewhat larger than our grouse, but resembling it closely in shape and plumage. The flavour of their flesh was exquisitely delicate, forming a ver}" welcome addition to our otherwise invariable fare of fried bacon. Some years back, herds of buffalo used to roam in unre- strained freedom over those plains, slain only as the wants of food and raiment pressed upon the Indian ; but so soon as the fur-trading companies commenced the traffic for the hides, they were slaughtered without regard to the flesh, and the hides bartered for beads and baubles, until the incesssant warfare drove them back upon the banks of the Platte, leaving no substitute for food but the timid, wary deer. Whether the steady decrease in the Indian family is attributable to the decrease of their wonted sustenance, cannot be well determined ; but it is quite remarkable that since that period the population has been gradually getting thinner, some of the tribes becoming wholly extinct. FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 51 Next morning we ascended from the ravine to an ele- vated ridge of grassy land, along which we travelled ten or twelve miles, enjoying a magnificent prospect on each hand of the boundless plains, intersected with their little aqueous arteries and lines of timber, that in some places resembled the studied planting of large demesnes ; and probably, at no very distant period, this untenanted pai'adise will be dotted with the abodes of the pale-face, and its solemn grandeur disi)elled by the busy activity of industry and commerce. We directed our course to the upper crossing of the Kansas, at the Pottawottomee Mission, or trading post, as it is more generally called, diverging from the more frequented ti-ack towards a small river, called the Shonganong, w4ien our travelling became very difficult, from the entire absence of any path and tlie softness of the ground. The first branch of that river was altogether impassable, until we made a sort of corduroy sole, by cutting do^^^l trees and strewing their tininks on tlie bottom — an expedient we were also forced to adopt at the second branch, where we unfortunately broke an axle in one of the waggons ; but, £LS we took tlie precaution of bringing a spare one to each, dressed, and ready for putting on, save the iron shoulders, which we took from tlie broken one, it was not so bad an accident as might be imagined: nevertheless, even with this facility, it occupied us till dark before all was set to rights. There is a small settlement of Christianised Indians be- tween the forks of this river, imder the immediate patron- age of the missionaries ; but their attempts at fencing and ^cultivation give bad promise of ultimate success; and the menage of their household was quite on a par with theu' agricultural progi-ess. They had nice little log-houses erected for them, plainly fui-nished with chairs, tables, dresser, &c. all of w^hich served merely as ornaments, for they never use them, cooking their food in the primitive fashion, and squatting to their meals in prefer- ence to sitting at table. They have herds of small horses, animals of gi-eat endurance, but cannot be induced to keep or attend to any cows about the settlement, which, indeed, is^ not particularly well chosen, either in regard to the beauty of the situation or quality of the soil, being suiTOunded with sloughs and morasses, in one of which we broke a waggon-tongue the following morning, and well 62 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, nigh lost a span of lead mules, who all but disappeared in the mire, the middle span falling over them and snapping the tongue, obliging us to cut off the harness hurriedly, and drag out the topmost ones with ropes ; two men stand- ing up to their armpits in mud, holding up the heads of the others to prevent their suffocation. This second acci- dent caused great detention, for we had to apportion the loading of the crippled waggon amongst the other four, until we got as far as the smith s, about eight miles off, where we expected to have the fracture repaired. We now got into a veiy hilly country, sparely covered witli timber; some of the descents being so abiaipt, that the waggons ran down on the animals, even though double locked in the rough. We found the smith at home, in a very comfortable dwelling, with an excellent forge, established in Mission Creek, which flows through and is fed by the drainage of those hills. Mr. Monday w^as surrounded with most of the comforts and necessaries of life; plenty of fine stock, abundance of fowl, excellent tillage, well-cropped gardens, and an illimitable scope of the finest grazing land. There were several Indians lounging about the premises and fiddling in the forge when we anived, but noiie of them appeared to require the smith's sersices at that particular time, which led me to suppose we would have our job done off hand; however, Mr. Monday told me he durst not work for any but the Indians, unless by special leave from the States' agent, or the Indian appointed in that capacity by the tribe : rather a disagreeable piece of information, as the one was wholly inaccessible, and the other so veiy remote, that it would require two days to hunt him up. Monday, however, gave us permission to use his forge; and, though none of us had attempted any- thing of the kind, we had no alternative but try; and had actually commenced hammering out straps for the fractured tongue, when, to our great delight, the Indian, chief was descried riding up. Monday stated our mishap to him, and before he arrived, suggested the policy of a propitiative present; in compliance with which, I offered his highness a handsome sheath-knife, which he was graciously pleased to accept, telling Mr. Monday to inform us, " that as we were travellers going on a journey beyond the great hills, he gave permission to him to repair the damage," a per- FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 53 mission for which i\Ir. Monday subsequently demanded payment at a veiy exorbitant rate. We reached the banks of the Kansas at dusk the same evening, and had a levee of Indians and young half-castes from the trading post round our camp-fires the most of the night, on wliom we had to keep a shaip look-out to prevent their pilfering propensities. The trading post is a small hamlet, composed of some half-dozen shops and a little straggling suburb of wig^vams. The shops are kept by Avhite men, licensed to supply the Indians around with the flimsy, fantastic, and trumpeiy ai'ticles tliey require; liquor being specially interdicted, and veiy properly so. But the same kindly solicitude that pro- hibits the sale of spirits, should take some measures to 2)rotect those unsophisticated people from the gross extor- tion, the vile imposition, practised on them in those estab- lishments, into which the whole of the Indian pension money finds its way: gaudy patterns of flimsy calico rating as high as the richest satin ; saddles, bridles, and spurs, of the veiy commonest kind, fetching a higher price than padded or (piilted articles of the same manufacture; and l)eads, rings, whistles, and little looking-glasses, jdl selling in tlie same ratio. They give them out on credit till the quai'ter-day comes round, when the poor Indian punctually hands over his pension to those unconscionable hai-pies. . There are not many Indians living immediately at the trading post; but the day after we came to the Kansas, being Sunday, swarms of them came on their ponies from the various settlements ai'ound, the older amongst them wrapped in parti-coloured blankets, while most of the younger portion were given to grotesque dandyism, attired in ill-fitting American costume; the gi-eat feature of the dress, and the one on which they principally plumed them- selves, being veiy^ lofty shirt collars and projecting frills, adorned with great platter brooches of stained glass, which I supposed cost them as much as pure mother-o'-pearl. We were in expectation of getting a supply of mocassins here, but those educated countiy gentlemen now deem such occupations entirely beneath them, leaving mean employ- ments of that kind to their unenlightened brethren in the far west. Early on the following morning we discharged our tender waggon, dividing the com that remained equally amongst ;S4 ACROSS THE EOCKY [MOUNTAINS, our own five, and moved down close to the bank of the river, which is here over one hundred yards wide, tolerably deep, and flowing with a rapid current. One of the white traders, in anticipation of the emigration, having built what they call a scow, a large flat-bottomed boat, capable of canying a waggon loaded, together with the team — a very unwieldy craft, propelled with long poles and clumsy oars— we chartered it for the occasion rather than run the risk of fording. The crossing entailed a vast deal of trouble and labour, first in getting the mules and waggons on board, then hauling the boat up stream near half a mile, to a point where, the current taking a shoot to the opposite shore, the painter was cast off, and she was swept down more than half a mile before she made a landing; then, after discharging her, she had again to be dragged up along the shore a considerable distance, drifting down again in the back-passage, a series of operations that had to be gone through with the transportation of each waggon, and which tried our metal to the furthest. The loose animals we got over by swimming; one of our party taking soil on the bell-mare, who ver^ soon was surrounded by her train of attendants. We proceeded from the river a few miles up the valley of tlie Kansas, encamping on a quick clear stream, Avhere we caught some fish. It is impossible to conceive a more lovely valley, lying between the river and a range of green grassy hills of most pleasing configuration, on whose brow myriads of delicate flowers, attracted by the genial smiles of spring, were peeping up amidst the sprouting herbage, with groves and clumps of timber budding into foliage, and blossoming shrubs skirting the plain along the stream, making it look like a favourite resting-place of nature, where I felt I could bury all aspirations of ambition, and taking a long farewell of the busy world, spend the remainder of my days in sequestered happiness. And as, yielding to this blissful feeling, I lay down outside my tent on my prairie bed, gazing on the spangled canopy, which hung on high like a celestial chandelier in the heaven of heavens, the vastness of creation, and tlie omnipotence of the Al- mighty, filled my mind with a holy reverential awe, a sweet transport of devotional meditation, I never before experienced, causing me to imagine, when breathing my prayers before this resplendent altar, that I was more FROM NEW YOKE TO CALIFORNIA. 55 directly communing with the tlirone of Divine grace than in the carved and gilded temples of man. There is a French Catholic mission at the extremity of the vale, the most advanced post of Christianity on the prairie, where the worthy minister has established a school in the little log chapel; and as I entered I found him in the midst of his half-tamed scholars, labom-ing to impart tlie blessings of education, with a fen'id zeal emanating from the purest sources of philanthropy, without any w^orldly incentive to feed it, or any rewai'd but tlie conso- lations of a happy conscience. Another obstacle to oin* progress presented itself here, in an immense ti'ee, which was blown down in a deep gully that crossed our path, just in the place where the crossing was easiest. Its great size forbade any attempt at removing it, so we set all hands to work -with spades and shovels, cutting an incline in each bank, which we accomplished much sooner than I expected, tlie deep rich black loam having neither a rock nor stone commingled witli it, being dug into like a tuif bank. We also cut down some middle- sized trees to fill it up, as it was so nan*ow at tlie bottom the waggon perches would be in danger of breaking. From this we had five or sLx miles of very bad travelling, over a half-dried morass, the wheels frequently cutting through the sod to the axles; we managed, however, to pull through, and reached first-rate camping ground before dark, on a nice cool stream, where the pasture w^as excellent and the scenery channing. As we were now dramng close to tlie confines of the Pawnee nation, a tribe notorious for their adroitness in tliieving, I caused the animals to be picketed compactly, in order that the guard could watch them more secm'ely : a precaution opportunely adopted; for in the middle of the night we were all aroused by the sharp crack of a rifle, dis- charged after two of those savages, who crawled on their bellies in amongst the mules, and cutting two of the lariats,- were in tlie act of leading them off, when the uneasiness of the remainder brought one of the guai'd to the spot in time to prevent the tlieft. He only got a glance at the Indians as they plunged into the tliicket, but fired after them, with what effect we had no means of judging. We saw several * * Long halters. ^ 56 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, rattlesnakes about our camp in the morning, and killed two of a veiy large size. We nooned next day at the Vermilion, a good-sized stream, running over a red sandstone bottom, that imj)arts the ap- pearance of a reddish hue to its waters, from which I sup- pose it derives its name, though in reality the w^ater is as clear as crystal. Having made it a point, w4ienever I met any person who could talk English or make intelligible signs, to get all the information I could respecting our route, and in answer to my inquiries at the mission, being given to understand that from the Vermilion to the Blue we would not find either wood or water, I prudentially gave instructions that each w^aggon should take in a supply of those indispensable articles, when some Indians coming past, and observing, with their usual acuteness, what we w^ere about, made signs to us to stop, motioning to us that " there was plenty of both beyond the hills, which we would reach this sun." At first I was disinclined to nm the risk; but as w^e had some veiy sharp ascents before us, and the loads were still heavy, I tiTisted to their gestures, nor was I disappointed, as we found a sweet purling brook and jilenty of firewood. We here shot several birds, most exactly resembling our o^vn woodcock in size, plumage, and conforaiation : in ftict, there was no traceable dissimilarity, nor, according to my palatial reminiscences, was there any difference of taste in the flesh ; but the haunts and habits of the birds, associating in flocks on a naked plain, in the wann season, w^as so totally different from the woodcock, I could not* believe in the identity. No one can appreciate the luxury of fresh meat so well as he who has been for weeks on salt rations ; and believe me I enjoyed my modicum of the game with a tnost exquisite gout. An apprehension of being devoured by wolves disturbed our slumbers, such amazing numbers of them kept prowling and howling about our camp all night. We shot two of them of a large size; well-lmit ani- mals, that would, I think, be a match for the strongest mastiff in a single encounter. They are very fleet, and possessed almost of the sagacUy of the fox. At sunrise next morning .we were all astir, and had break- fast disposed of, in order to be in time at the *'Big Blue" (a large river), and cross it before dark. It is laid do^vn by explorers as thirteen miles from the Vermilion, leaving it, • FROM KEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 57 by computation, seven from our camping-gi'ound. We started early, and travelled steadily for three hours, making, according to our average of two and one-half miles an hour, some eight miles, when we met a lively limpid stream, shaded by fine elms and sycamore-trees ; but its dimensions forbade the idea of its being the "Big Blue;" so we con- tinued our course, constantly expecting to see indications of a large river ahead. The countiy all around was black and nak^d, high, rolling, unbumt prairie; but we perse- vered until the suns course and our poor animals were near run down, without discovering the slightest appear- ance of it; and although I sent out our hoi*semen in diffe- rent directions in quest of camping-ground, tliey were unable to find tmy better than a green stagnant pool, round the margin of which there was a diy, coarse grass, tliat made sufficient fire to boil our coffee ; those who were under the control of appetites being obliged to eat their bacon raw. We skimmed off tlie slime from the water, and strained tlie dirty fluid through tlie tail of a waggon-sheet, which cleansed it somewhat; but it still retained an abomi- nable vegetable taste, which we endeavoured to smother by putting in an extra quantity of coffee. After helping our- selves we let the animals take their turn, and by the time they had done, tlie stuff left was of the consistence of mo- lasses, leaving us without tlie means of making a hot break- fast in the n)orning, and confining our fare to raw bacon and hard bread. In calling over tlie roll in the evening we were all alarmed at the absence of one of the party, who did not answer to his name, or return the signal of a gun-shot. No one could tell the cause of his leaving camp, nor could I clearly ascer- tain if he came up with the train. Having no wood to light fires for his guidance, our only alternative was to sally out in various directions, hallooing and firing to attract his at- tention ; and after a two hours' search, he was found at a long distance from camp ; but as the party that met him . could not communicate their good fortune to the others, they continued their search until morning, being, in reality, unable to find their own way back to quarters until the sun got up, and even then not without gi-eat trouble : so difficult is it to make one's way to any particular point without any landmark to guide you in those interminable plains. The cause of all this trouble and anxiety followed a pack of 58 ACEOSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, prairie hens until he lost his reckoning, and then getting • confounded and alarmed as darlaiess closed upon him, set off at a brisk pace, turning his hack on the place he wished to gain. I was more annoyed at the occurrence, as most of the party were so fagged they were badly able to travel, without even the comfort of a good breakfast after their night "s fatigue ; but the inhospitable region where w^e were constrained us to push on in search of better quar- ters. I gave directions that, for the future, parties going out to hunt should be at least made up of three persons ; for, independent of the danger of going astray, stragglers were in danger of being cut off by Indians, who from thenceforward were not to be overtrusted. CHAPTER V. Second Start for the Big Blue— Prairie en Fire — Frightful Appearance impossible to describe— Indian Camp — Abundance of Fish— Jokes about the Blue— Dry Weather — Council — Dreadful Tliundcrstoi*m — Glorious Dawn — 13eautiful Basin — Wolf Chase, and extraordinary Accident — The real Big Blue at last— Most melan- choly Occurrence — Reflections on th9 pad Event — Commencement of the Musquito Nuisance — Fertile Neighbourhood — Lay-by a Day — Hurricane — Wild Turkey ^ Chase— Number of Rattlesnakes — Our Fears of them — Missing Horses found — Indications of Buffalo — May Morning Thoughts of Home — Lovely Landscape — Number of Plover— One of the Party bit by a Snake— Bad Camping-ground — Sudden Change of Temperature— Indian Wigwams — Their Shyness a bad Augury of their Intentions — Supposed Attack — Indians watching us — Surprise them — Slight Skii'mish — Fish and Fowl plenty — Wagtails enemies to Constipation — Navicular Disease : how guarded against. It was late before we started, but we made certain the river ran on the other side of a range of barren hills, about eight miles distant. It took us three hours to gain their summit, from which we had an extensive view, without, however, any sign or symptom of the Big Blue, as far as the eye could penetrate into the distance ; so I reluctantly came to the conclusion that the river we passed last even- ing was the one in question, but that we struck at a different point from others, whose estimate of distances confounded us. We observed from this eminence a dusky appearance in front, but were unable to determine at the time whether it was smoke or a low black cloud. However, as we approxi- mated, om^ doubts were soon resolved : it was smoke ema- FKOM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 59 nating from a prairie on fire right in our track, the flames ti^avelling rapidly towards us, with a favourable breeze. I inmiediately ordered the prairie to leeward of us to be fired in several places, and the bell-mai-e to be caught, who witli the loose animals was betraying spnptoms of alai*m, that I feared would cause them to stampede: mean while the fire came down upon us, roaring, extending north and south about three miles, presenting a grand but ten-ific spectacle. The next move was to get the waggons into the space cleared by our own fire, and make the mules and horses fimily fast to the wheels. The smoke came drift- ing before the flames in dense hot wreatlis as we secm*ed the lai'iats, the animals snorting and shaking with dread ; and some of them rearing in afli'ight, and breaking the tieings, bolted away wildly, until they overtook the flames before them, when they rushed franticly back, plunging m amongst those that remained. The heat now became excessively uncomfortable, for our line was not over fifteen yards from the edge of the unburn t gniss to windward, and we could not back the waggons without loosenmg the ani- mals. As the devouring element came closer, burning wisps were carried in the air, endangering our waggon covers and tlie powder-casks; but the heat became so intense we were forced to leave them to their fate, and prostrate oiu-selves, the smoke now gleaming witli a murky flame, at a perfectly singeing temperature, producing a difliculty of breathing tliat threw Mr. M ^n (a gentle- man with delicate lungs) into convulsions. But those dreadful moments quickly passed away; a few more seconds and the last blade of grass was consumed, and the monster tliat threatened to lick us mto his flaming throat vanished with the wind, leaving a bald and blackened plain around us. I had often read descriptions of prairies on fire, and thus became familiar with the proper mode of acting in such an emergency; but the graphic pen of Washington Irvuig, or the eloquent portraiture of Cooper, is tame and feeble as compared with the a^^ful reality. It behoved us now to be on the alert, as but a few hours of the day remained, and, from the coui*se of the fire, we could not expect to find any pasture for several miles. We therefore pushed along at a double-quick pace, .until we descried a belt of timber on an apparently level plain, without hills or blufi"s that would indicate a large river, ^60 ACKOSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, where we found a stream of considerable size, with water the clearest I ever remember to have seen, even in a still well, and swarming with fish, which we could see as j^lainly as birds in the air, darting about as we went into the ford. There were marks of a recent Indian encampment on the banks, at which no doubt the fire originated, for the jirairie was burned just to that point, and no farther. We formed ours on the opposite bank, and had a glorious fish repast on shad and catfish, which I ate for the first time, and found to be excellent. Having caught as many at a few draughts as furnished supper, and breakfast the next morn- ing, this Avelcome change of diet put us all in good humour ; and the evening passed away pleasantly, our wild bivouac resounding with the jocund song and the ringing laugh at the expense of those who were obstinate in their opi- nions that the river of yesterday was the Big Blue, one and all having agreed that the waters now flowing past us were those of that river, notwithstanding that its position did not tally with that assigned to it ])y trappers and ex- plorers, nor its volume corresj)ond with the recorded dimen- sions of the Blue. Since our first night's drenching on Bull Creek, when we devoutly anathematised hail, rain, and sleet, we had not a shower or shade of lowering weather; but, like all capri- cious mortals, we had been heaving pluvial sighs for the last few days, which at long last attracted the s^nnj^athy of the elements, and brought do^\^l copious tears of compas- sion on our bereavement. Before retiring to our buffalo robes, all assembled in my tent to examine the vacuous map of those regions, and as- certain the probable distance to the Platte, as well as shape our course, and agree upon camping points. While thus engaged, the rain pattered more heavily on the canvass, and at intenals a low growling of distant thunder came along, like a mighty piece of ordnance in the heavens, rum- bling louder and louder as it approximated, until it ex- ploded with a bursting crash above our heads, that promptly broke up our council of travel : brilliant coruscations from above flashing through the tent-cloth, betwixt the discharges, paling the weak light of the lamp ; and as I went to the door to look on this awe-striking phenomenon, black fields of cloud hovered in the sky, fringed with a halo from the bright fires that glared behind them, opening momentarily FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 61 in seams of livid light, and emitting spiral pillars of vivid fire, adown which, fancy would cUscover torrents of electric fluid poming into the thirsty earth. It was a scene of sur- passing suhlimity, such as I never hefore witnessed; but its violence soon expended its fury, leaving us ere midnight a glorious starlit firmament. A most delightful morning succeeded, and all nature seemed refreshed from the rain : the i)lams clothed with a delicious verdure, the lovely flowerets expanding their virgin bosoms, and emitting tlieu* fragrance on the balmy tiir, the sod beautifully elastic for travellmg, and even the animals I thought looking sleek and glossy. We had breidvfast over, om' waggons greased, and teams tackled by seven o'clock, and set out, as we tliought, in quest of another river, the course of which is more accurately laid down than tlie Blue. After travelling about eight miles, ^ve came to a pebbly brook, flowmg through a basin of the richest land we had met, not even excepting the fertile valley of the Kansas : its velvet carpet decked out in a most gor- geous garnitm^e of floral beauty. The lai'kspur, the wild pink verbena, the wild blue bean, and various others strange to me. I looked about for the familiar primrose, but it was nowhere to be found ; nor do I tliink it might have hidden its head amongst any of its foreign competitors, whose sweet perfume was ovemiatched by the pungent odom-s of the wild onion, which I had met frequently before, but never in such quantity or maturity. We gathered a large quan- tity, which gave an agreeable relish to om- standing dish, and were productive of other effects of a desirable nature in our long vegetable abstinence. In going up the hill, I obsei-ved an animal stealing away in the long grass that bordered the brooks, and taking an off'-hand rifle crack at him, materially quickened his pace, and extracted a sample of his vocalism. It turned out to be a wolf; and seeing by his going lame that he was wounded, all the horsemen gave chase, running him so close that they kept peppering him with their revolvers imtil they brought him down ; but m the careless eagerness of tlie chase, a misdirected or rebounding ball sti*uck the nose of one of the horses, which made so sudden a curve that he unseated his rider, Mr. J- y, one of the most timid of our party, who was always holding forth about Indian surprises and ambuscades. A Avag amongst the lot, seeing him fall, raised the shout of 62 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, "Indians, Indians!" and headed a retreat to the waggons at a furious pace, leaving my Uttle friend "alone in his glory;" but, fearing the alarm might prove too serious a shock for his nei^ves, I went back to his relief, cantering up the rise to meet or hail him ; however he was nowhere to be seen. I then galloped across to the opposite hill, from which I had an extensive reconnoissance; but still he was not within view. I next made the horsemen scatter about; returning myself to the dead wolf, the place at which the accident occurred, and shouting lustily, the horsemen join- ing in the call at the top of their lungs, without eliciting a response or aj^pearance. I now began to feel somewhat nervous ; but knowing from the time, distance, and expan- sive view, he could not have been carried off by Indians, I ordered and commenced a close search, which, consider- ing that the herbage was short, and little or no cover for hiding, I felt assured would bring him to light; in fact there was no place for concealment but a diy gully, about two feet and a half deep, bare of either reed or brushwood. Up this I rode without discovering a trace, when I became exceedingly puzzled and uncomfortable. On returning, however, I observed a fresh break in the surface, which I dismounted to examine, one of my companions observing it occurred in the chase ; but not seeing any horse track near it, I stopped to scinitinise it closely, and conceived I saw a sort of pulsation, upon which I gave the long sod a drag, and down came about seven feet of a strip, revealing om* missing friend, in a most i:)itiable plight. As soon as he recovered, he told us, believing the alarm to be genuine, he thought escape on foot beyond hope, and seeing the overhanging bank in the gully, he crawled under it, but giving its edge a pull the more effectually to perfect his concealment, he brought down a flake more than his strength was able to remove, and would have been smo- thered if there had been any loose earth or sand attached to it. At times, he said, he heard the muffled sound of voices, but could not distinguish whether they were Indians or not; and such was his veneration for his scalp, he pre- ferred dying by tlie slow process of suffocation, rather than disclose his hiding-place. He was too much of a sufferer to be a fit subject for joking; nevertheless, it was impos- sible to refrain from laughter as we thought of all the cir- cumstances, and saw that he was unhurt. FEOM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 63 We ascended from the basiii to a high, undulating prairie, where there was a fine crop) of upland grass, the first we met with. The soil was lighter than I had before seen, being only a few inches deep, on a dark flint-stone stratum, which occasionally peeped through the sm^'ace like the limestone tracts in the west of Ireland. We had not tra- velled fai' before I saw a range of timbered blufls, and soon perceived a large valley, tliickly wooded with maple, cotton wood, elm, oak, and sycamore. This I set down as the camping-gi'ound fifteen miles from the Blue, and cantered a-head to select a location for our night's lodging, when, lo iind behold ! I came to a real, veritable river, and no mistake, larger than the aggregate of all the creeks and streams we had passed. As the train came up " we looked each other s laces round," and fi-om the prevailing complexion I saw we all tacitly acquiesced in the conviction that at long last we had arrived at tlie Big Blue, though many, many miles west of the position assigned it. It was a formidable stream to cross, as well from its widtli as rapidity, but tlie in and out was tolerably easy. I rode on to take soundings, and select the shoalest ford, but had only proceeded a few lengths when I got fairly a-swim, and my horse, wheeling round with the cuiTcnt, went over on his beam-ends, giving me a regular souse and a gi-eat start, as for an instant one of my feet caught in the stiniip, but fortunately got extricated, else I should inevitably have been drowned, as I would be incapable^of making any exertion : a lesson which taught me, on all subsequent occasions, to cast my feet loose before going into rivers or swamps, to be free for any accident that might turn up. Making certain from what occuiTed that the water would reach our waggon beds, and damage the provisions, those attached to the leading one commenced unloading, to place on the top what was mo§t susceptible of injury, when, me- lancholy to relate, a fine young fellow, Jolm Coulter, in drawing out a loaded gun by the muzzle, brought the cock sharply in contact with a box, which caused it to explode, ending thirteen buck-shot clean tlu'ough his body, instant death ensuing. The gloom that overspread us all was greater, I imagine, than if he met his fate in the haunts of civilisation, v/here a Christian burial would consign his re- mains to consecrated gromid. But we dug his lonely grave beside a large elm close to the spot where he fell, and, with 64 ACROSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, uncovered heads and tearful eyes, lowered his rude coffin into its isolated resting-place, caning his epitaph on the bark of the tree that overshadowed this tomb of the wil- derness. What rendered reflection more distressing was, that we afterwards discovered a ford that superseded the necessity of any alteration in the loading. After a short but mournful pause, we commenced the passage, which was attended with considerable danger and difficulty; however, we got over without damage or accident. One small lead-span in the third waggon got afloat, and for a moment looked as if they would be hurried into the deep below them ; but like good-'uns, they headed for the right spot, and pulled out without a stop. Not a sound of voice or whip was heard in the crossing, and the same respectful tribute of silence was continued throughout the night to tJie memory of our departed comrade, who was esteemed and liked more generally than any member of the party; and as I marched round during my watch, under the pale scant light of a new moon, I never remember to have been so religiously impressed with the fleeting folly of earthly pursuits and anxieties, and the duty of at least dividing our solicitude and time in laying up treasures for a world to come ; and yet, when I asked my conscience would it undertake a pilgrimage of three thousand miles over desert plains, encountering crosses, enduring mortifications, ford- ing dangerous rivers, sleeping on the wet ground, tortured by mosquitoes, in danger of the poisonous snake, and ap- prehensive of the savage Indian, solely in expectation of a reward hereafter, I could extract but a reluctant assent; while it bounded with impulse at the idea of an acquisition which admittedly makes the attainment of an eternal reward more uncertain and difficult : the camel and the needle giv- ing way to the needle that pointed out the course to the mammon of iniquity. Our camp to-night was close beside a grove which ap- peared to be the head-quarters of the mosquito tribe, for they hummed and buzzed in myriads about us, watching every opportunity of inflicting a wound. One is tolerably able, if his hands and attention are not otherwise employed, to defend himself in daylight; but their "inextinguishable hatred " pursues its victims throughout the night as well ; and if sleep should close your eyelids, luilike the agreeable results of Queen Mab's titillations, you dream of needles FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 65 and daggers, and start into stinging consciousness from Hie terror of being impaled on bayonets. It was amusing, spite of all the tortm-e, to listen to the remai'ks and excla- mations of the sufferers; and it is positively wonderful, that an insect so slender in all its proportions can inflict so severe a sting, drawing blood through your coat, even the thick skin of a horse not being proof against its scarce visible lance. Unlike the fly, which only settles on the ex- posed surface of the skin, tliey go up the legs of your trou- sers and under the bed-clothes ; nor can any mosquito bai- wholly exclude them, for they will worm themselves into an aperture that you would suppose too small to admit an ant. Though we were pretty well tired, sleep was out of the question ; so we all arose and made a monster fire, round which we got some relief Next day w^e lay by, our animals luxuriating in fine pas- ture, and ourselves enjoying rich treats of shad and catfish, together with wild ducks and parroquets, which were ver^' abundant. We saw some deer bounding through tlie brakes, but could not manage to get within range of them. There were great quantities of the Indian or prairie potato about: a small but highly farinaceous esculent, too sweet for most of our palates. The wild hop spread its vines thickly amongst the trees, and amidst tlieni thickets of wild plums covered with blossoms that gave promise of gi'eat abundance, the fruit of which I understand grows to a good size, and is of excellent flavour. Abundance of clover gi'ew up amongst the indigenous grasses, some of which resem- bled closely our Italian rye-grass. The wind during the evening was very high, but re- sembled a hot blast in its temperature: so much so, that the first guard turned out unmuflled, tlie others retiring to rest without any covering whatsoever. About ten o'clock, however, strange meteoric appearances began to present themselves in the north; the opposite point to that from which the wind was blowing gradually becoming more wide-spread and livid; when suddenly a small black speck emerged from the horizon, and with the quickness of thought, the wind veered round to that quarter, increasing to a perfect huiTicane, blowing down the tents, scattering hats, pots, kettles, blankets, and buffalo robes, over the plain; tearing one of the waggon covers into shreds, and turning one clean over; while tlie embers and the coals carried about 66 ACROSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, set fire to the underwood, which soon spread mto a lake of flame, involving several large decaying trees in the confla- gration. It was a terrific sight, and so affrighted the stock, that most of them pulled up their picket-pins, galloping about, snorting and puffing, and keeping us busily engaged until daylight in looking after them. After morning broke, it took us some hours to hunt up our truant traps; but many were missing, which I think were carried into the flames and consumed. It was afternoon before the gale abated sufficiently to admit of travelling, and there was nothing of variety in the scenery, nor incident w^orth recording, unless it was a turkey chase, in which a fine bird was fairly run down. This bird, particularly when fat, cannot rise on the wing more than once, and then only for a short flight; but they make excellent use of their shanks, which are very lengtliy; for by the time the one in question was caught, its pursuers were nearly piped out. It proved to be in very different condition from that shot on the Missouri, and as delicate as it was fat. About twelve miles frairs of blankets, with a proportion of powder, lead, tobacco, and i^aint. We were then invited over to their village, five miles dis- tant: an invitation we could not refuse witliout having it construed into an affront. I therefore took with me ten of our party, riding alongside my Dulcinea on her prancing palfrey ; and as we went capering and cuneting over the prairie, I flatter myself we fonned an equestrian cortege that neither Ducrow nor Batty ever equalled: one tliat would monopolise admiration even in the classic regions of liotten Eow. About midway between our camp and the village there was a large wigwam, the same as those they live in, standing isolated on the plain, in which the remains of their late chief were laid in state ; it was entirely closed up, and guarded vigilantly, to prevent its being disturbed until decomposition would completely denude the bones. We found the village standing on about twenty acres of land : a perfect circle, in the centre of which stood the resi- dence of the present chief, sumiounted with a flag made up of all colours in the rainbow. His lady was at home, but his three sons were along with the war party. Their wig- wams are of a perfectly conical shape, about eighteen feet high, and twelve in diameter at the bottom. The skele- ton of this i^rimitive habitation is foraied by a number of straight light spars, called lodge poles, tied closely together at the top, and spread out at the base so as to form a cone; tliey are then covered with tanned buffalo robes laced to- gether, with a small aperture at the apex to let out the smoke, and a doonvay at the side, which is closed by a flap looped up above it; the fire stands in the centre of the floor, and the mats and couches are ranged close along the ' 102 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, sides. They are very superior to the general run of Indian habitations, and make a veiy comfortable dwelling, capable of being erected or taken down in a very short time. We partook of some jerked beef in the chiefs residence, and afterwards had a display of juvenile archery from the pappooses, or young children, who hit their marks with amazing precision. This was followed by a native dance by the young men and women, who chanted their own music, which was not of the most spirit-moving character ; nor was the ballet a display of a very attractive nature — as, indeed, it could not well be — for dancing in a circle, with clasped hands, does not admit of much grace or variety of motion. There seemed to be at least some half-dozen dogs to each wigwam, some of them fine-sized, powerful brutes, and the plains around for miles were covered with horses, mules, mares, and foals. I got a salve for my poor horse's shoulder from the chief, that soon healed it up; from its highly sanative properties it would be a great acquisition to the veterinaiy pharmacopoeia, but I could not find out more than that it was comj)osed of ceii;ain herbs and buffalo-marrow. Before leaving, the chief asked, and got from me, a ^vritten acknowledgment that he was a " good Indian," and " treated us kindly," which he would show to the commandant at Fort Kearney, to propitiate his good opinion. He then escorted us to the entrance of the village, and formally took leave, making us signs he would send some of his subjects in the morning to assist at the crossing, I turned more than once on the plain to gaze on the dwelling-place of the lovely Sioux girl; and, as the village sunk from sight beyond an undulation of the prairie, I felt my saddened soul swelling, in which the moistened eye sympathised, and thought of the plaintive couplet : — Maid of Athens, ere we part, Give, oh! give me back my heart. I was told at the fort that the Sioux were not to be trusted ; that they were treacherous, thieving, and only contented when dabbling in human gore ; yet I found their disposi- tion diametrically opposite to this wholesale misrepresen- tation, and resolved for the future to harbour a different opinion of Indian character — at least where I found the females beautiful — ^for I think it will hold good, as a gene- FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 103 ral mle, to expect more l^enignity of nature where the race is without the influence of the loveUness and gentle- ness of woman. I was highly gratified to find on my return to camp that the river had fallen considerably, and that we might look for a steady decline from the continuance of fine weather. Those who remained in camp had not been idle in our ab- sence, having propped up tlie waggon-beds fourteen inches on the axles ; an^anged tlie loading, by placing the powder and breadstufi's on the top ; and having dug away the bank, to make the descent easy and gradual, so that notliing re- mained but to harness and dash on in the morning. An un- pleasant accident took place in the night by the coming of the Indians the chief promised, who were not expected until morning; but long before the dawn they were seen advanc- ing to the camp by one of the watch who remained behind, and was unawai*e of tlie aiTangement. He challenged once, and a second time, without receiving an answer, and then he fired, sending the ball betwixt the left aim and the side of one of the Indians ; fortunately without douig any injuiy : scarcely even di*awiug blood, as there was only a slight abrasion ofthe skin on both arm and side. The Indians walked coolly on as if nothing had occuned, and seemed to understatid and cordially receive the explanation given them. After an early and hunied breakfast two of the Indians went into the river, and betwixt swimming and wading got over, after nearly an hours stiniggle; the river being close upon two miles wide. When tliey reached the banks opposite, they took then* stations at the point wliere alone we could get out; and one of those who remained mounted to point out the best track through tlie cmTeiit. We then put five span of picked mules to my waggon, with a rider on the near leader and wheel ones; Ixiding below the team, to prevent them from swening with the stream. In this order we went in ; but, notwithstanding the digging away of the bank, the waggon made a dive tliat nearly drove the tongue-mules under water; and, if there had not been a good man in the saddle, who upheld them with a power- ful arm, the consequences might have been highly disas- trous, as the waggon was broadside to the cmTent. It occasionally swayed with portentous violence, almost float- ing when it got into deep water; and again, as it reached 104 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, a shoal, the flood rushed through the spokes with a truly terrific noise. The mules in like manner were alternately aswim and walking, the length of our team constituting our greatest safety; for when the wheel mules would he out of their depth, the lead and middle ones might not be over knee-deep, and vice versa, so that there were always some on the strain to keep the waggon in motion, otherwise it w^ould sink in the quicksand, and all would be lost. The danger, against which it was impossible to take any pre- caution, was that of overturning, as the wheels on one side got on the steep sides of the countless ridges and bars of sand formed by the different eddies. Twice it was fairly poised, and I held my breath in an ecstacy of fear, thinking an uj)set inevitable, which would not only involve the loss of the waggon and its contents, ])ut that of the mules, and very probably the riders, tangled in the harness as they necessarily would be. After fifty minutes' hard tugging the leaders reached land, and while climbing the bank ex- hibited symptoms of great exhaustion, for their sides sobbed with distress ; but the nature of the bottom forbade a re- sjpite, so, dashing my riding-horse past them, as a mode of encouragement, all joining in a teamster's chorus, they charged the obstacle, and brought up their load right merrily for over half-way, when overtasked nature, unable to sustain the impulse, let the motion diminish ominously, until the wheels could be scarce seen to move : an instant's pause, and back it must inevitably go. At this critical moment the lead mules just gained the level ground, and in the next the victory was barely won, as up came the waggon, amidst our hoarse cheers; but our exultation was checked by the recollection that there were still four others to get over. Before they started, however, I got the bank on the coming-out side gi'aduated to an easy slope, which, together with lightening the loads, by packing all the tall horses and mules, enabled them to effect it with compara- tive ease ; the only accident that occurred being the falling of a pack-horse, that lost its pack, and nearly smothered the man who was leading it. ' As I before remarked, all our tasks either commenced or ended in rain; which, in this instance, before we could pitch our tents, came down as if the flood-gates of heaven were swept off their hinges, and not a spark of fire to cheer or warm us. We had, however, this countervailing conso- FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 105 lation to make us amends, tliat one of the greatest difficul- ties of the trip was vanquished in the passage of the Platte ; there was, besides, plenty of fii'st-rate feed for tlie animals, and they had earned it well. The JiOth brought forth a sun, but of a cold, silvery complexion, little calculated to make the amende for the negligence of yesterday. With a toilsome day's work be- fore us, having to cross the neck of land that separates the south from the north fork of Platte, the route lying over high hills and low valleys, tliat looked like hikes from the late rains, two of the Indians asked permission to accom- pany us "two suns' travel;" a request that could not be graciously denied, after the kind manner in which we were treated by their tribe. Not very long after starting we saw a small herd of buffalo to windward of us, and, being desirous to test the merits of tlie buffalo horse we got in trade, I made known to one of tlie Indians that I wished him to pursue tliem and shoot one. Spreading out the arms before him that he might tiike his choice of weapons^ he selected two holster-pistols, which he stuck in his gir- dle, and, throwing aside his robe, caught the little horse, and, making a sort of noose bridle of the lai'iat, jumped upon him bare-backed. The spmted creature knew peiiectly well what was in the wind, as, pricking forward his eai'S, he voluntarily darted off towards the herd, while we stopped on a hill-side looking on at the sport. It so happened that the herd did not break until he was tolerably close to them, and, curiously enough, they tlien headed back in tlie direc- tion from which the Indian came. He was soon alongside a big bull, which, as he drew closer upon him, pistol in hand, made a quick lunge, which was as quickly evaded by the horse, without any admonition from the rider, and immedi- ately resumed his proximate position of his own accord. After galloping a few strides more, the Indian leant over, and stretching his arai to the full length, fired ; a momentary shock followed the report, after which the wounded brute darted from the herd at his enemy; but the watchful horse, as quick as thought, wheeled right round, galloping away from his pursuer, with what jockies call a stirrup eye cast back to watch his movements, regulating his speed so accurately as not more than safely to outstrip him. The bleeding buffalo continued the chase for a quarter of a mile, and tlien stopped, pawing the eai'th in an agony of pain 106 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, and fmy. The horse was stock-still at the same moment, as if gifted with volition, and hecame again the pm-suer, as the buffalo turned to rejoin the herd. In less than a minute he was once more side by side with the sinking bull, dodging his thrusts with the skill of a fencing-master, until another shot brought the contest to a close : the buffalo dropping to his knees and falling slowly over on his side as the life-ebbing tide issued from his chest. The Indian immediately dismounted to cut his throat; and while en- gaged in this oj^eration, the horse stood quietly over the prostrate carcase, like a greyhound after having run down a hare. The instinct of those animals is truly surprising. They leave your hands free for the use of your weapons, requiring no guidance from the reins, for they intuitively hit upon the beast you select, watch their opportunities of approximating, and anticipating his attack by the rolling of the eye, but never fail in evading them. We subsequently killed all our buffalo from the back of this horse, which was also pleasant to ride, and steady as a pack animal. About half-way between the forks we got upon the sum- mit of the hills that divide them, where driving became rather a nerve-testing operation; the only ^practicable path bemg along a ridge with a declivity amounting to a preci- pice on each side, and so naiTow it did not admit of a man's walking alongside to lay hold of the leaders in case of need ; but this very circumstance, I believe, contributed to our safety, as the sagacity of the mule convinced him there was no alternative but to go on cautiously. Not a voice was heai-d for a couple of miles, every mind being- occupied with the sensation of impending danger; for in some places the trail was so edge-like, that even some of the horsemen alit, under the influence of giddiness. As we advanced the ridge gradually romided, leading to such a long and abrupt descent that we debated the propriety of detaching the bodies of the waggons from the wheels, and sliding them down; but as the driver of the lead one volun- teered to essay a trial with rough double-locking and hold- ing back with ropes, w^e tried the exj^eriment, taking out all but the wheel-spans, which were left in merely to guide, and succeeded admirably until the last, in the descent of which the frayed rope parted, and the w^aggon slid, or, more properly speaking, fell on toj) of the mules, u]3setting and killing the one on the off-side and breaking the collar-bone of FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 107 the teamster, which was othenvise badly bniised ; the bows were all smashed, aiid tlie contents sent hopping down the steep. The waggon miraculously escaped any disabling fractiu^, thus enabling us to reload it and proceed without much delay. Two more moderate descents brought us into a lovely wooded dell, so watered and sheltered that vegeta- tion of every description appeared as if stimulated by a hot-house compai-ed with that on the open prairie. The modest wild rose, forgetting its co}Tiess in the leafy ar- bours, opened out its velvet bosom, adding its fragnint bou- quet to that of the various scented flowers and shmbs that formed the undenvood of the majestic ash-trees, which con- fer a name upon the spot, producing a perfectly aromatic atmosphere. Cool sti-eams, filtered through tlie adjoining hills, prattled about, until they merged their munnurs in a translucent pond, reposing in the centre of a verdant mea- dow, a perfect parterre, the bespangled carpet of which looked the congenial area for the games and ganibols of the hght-tripping beings of fiiiry-land. While contemplating the beauties of this favoured place, one of the Indians ran up, shouting unintelligible jargon at tlie top of his voice, and gesticulating with frantic vehe- mence. Hostile Indians first suggested themselves as the cause of the alarm ; then a wild di'ove of hemmed-in buf- falo ; but the practised eye of the Sioux detected a gathering whirlwind, peculiai' to those regions, and eagerly pointing to tlie south-west, where a small black cloud, that did not look bigger than a cannon-ball, came rushing and expand- ing through the sky with preternatural velocity. He made hasty signs to unhitch the mules, and bring them, with om^selves, to shelter in a thick brush, apart from any lofty timber; but before they were t4ll disengaged, the roar of the maddened elements burst upon us with appalhng violence, projecting hail and uTegular blocks of ice, of unprece- dented magnitude, that plumped through the exposed wag- gon covers as if they were wet paper, and made the animals wince and jump as they hopped upon their backs and quarters. Several huge trees were uprooted near where Ave first halted, and limbs and branches whirled aloft like so many wisps. It swept past us in a very few minutes, taking the course of the ridge fi'om which we so lately de- scended. Had it overtaken us there, it would have put an end to the expedition, for men, animals, and waggons,. 108 ACEOSS THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS, would have been inevitably hurled from the heights. As we crept from our shelter, we found the ground covered with detached masses of ice, some of which measured six, some nine inches in circumference, many glittering with prismatic hues, which, on being broken, had blades of grass in the heart, which had been carried into the air by the whirlwind, and congealed in their frozen prisons. I am satisfied that many of those pieces were sufficiently hea\y to cause death if they had hit a person on a slightly-covered head. Our waggons presented a most tattered appearance, and left us a busy evening's patchwork. We now emerged from the narrow gorge of Ash Hollow, upon the banks of North Platte, which is the same muddy, uninteresting stream. It is below the forks, and renewed our acquain- tance with roaring fires. CHAPTER IX. Drifting Sand — Court-House Rock — Uninteresting Scenery — More Rain — Its dis- agreeable Effect — Chimney Rock — Its Appearance — Fast decaying — Symptoms of Gold in the Ravines — Continued Rain — Damages our Provisions — Stopped by the Mud — Brandy Rations — Mount Ararat — Scenery improves — Indian In- troduction — Air our Loading — Shoot Antelope — French * Trapper — Fascinations of that Mode of Existence — Anticipations about Fort Laramie — The Fort itself— Obliging Govenior — Trading at the Fort— Distance from Independence, and Time Occupied in Travelling — Future Facilities — Determine on Packing — Dis- suasions of the Governor unavailing — Crow Indians: their very bad Character — Faith in Indian Chivalry — Vote of Thanks — Troubles of Packing — Renewed Contests with the Mules — Their Antics — Difficulty of cording Packs — Pack turns : Conduct of the Mules thereon — Our first night's Bivouac as Packers — Black Hills : expansive View — Worrying Mishap and Delay — Moonlight Travel — Thoughts about the Crows — Long Day's Journey — Fatigue, Disappointment, Delight, and Apprehension — Unwelcome Sounds — Deliberation — The Appearance of the Country — Crickets and Ants — Our Precautions preparative to Rest. Our next day's journey was through loose drifting sands that reached from the river edge to the bluffs, not 2:)resent- ing a single feature worthy of note or comment either in vegetable or animal life, with the exception of a huge iso- lated rock, about six miles from the river, called by the trappers Court-House Pvock, from its supposed resem- FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 109 blance to a large public building of that description; but there was nothing about it of that striking chai-acter to seduce me from my path so far aside to visit it. From Court-House Kock the aspect of the countiy began to im- prove a little ; a slight, threadbare vegetation covering the suiface, and keeping do^^^l the light sands, w^hich before gave us considerable annoyance ; a few stunted cedai-s, too, helped to relieve the dreary sameness of the scener}-. We got tolerable camping-ground, and caught some nice fish in a small ri\Tilet, which, unlike most of the affluents of the Platte, was clear, cool, and fresh. The following morning was most promising, and con- tinuing so up to our nooning; we spread out all our clothes and provisions to get the benefit of the sun, which, w ith its usual caprice in those quarters, retired behind a dark cur- tain to make way for a teem of rain tliat poured down so copiously tliat it ran in streamlets over the plains. I may literally say we came to anchor this evening in a sheet of water ; the prairie, as far as we could see, presenting the same aqueous aspect. We were drenched with rain, and shivering from the cold raw -wind: tlie measure of our grievances being filled up by a supper of raw meat and liard bread. We endeavoured to secure diy lodging by digging deep trenches round our tents, which had a tem- porary effect in draining the space on which they stood; but as there was not enough of fall to caiiy off the water, they filled up soon after we went to sleep, and when we awoke in the morning tliere was fully four inches of w^ater aromid us on our robes. There was no abatement in the rain, and I felt sorely ill at ease as I saw the pitiable plight of the poor animals standing with drooping heads, their tails turned to the storm, unable to lie do^vn because of the water, which likewise covered their food. It was impossible to remain where we ^vere, and quite as impossible to meet witli worse quarters ; so, breaking fast with a second edi- tion oflast night's supper, we set out in the teeth of a pe- netrating wind, and under a drenching rain, to look for a patch of dry ground, be it ever so bare or barren, pre- ceded by a scout, who we hoped would soon return with an olive branch to comfort us. There was now observable through the mist high up in the clouds a pointed object, that looked like the toj) of some mo- numental erection, and becoming more and more distinctly 110 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, defined as we proceeded. With its base still enveloped in fog, we camped parallel with it on a slightly elevated patch that lay close along the river edge, where the water could not lodge, and the animals had some little picking; but I was grieved to find the breasts and shoulders of several of them scalded and stripping from the constant wet; how- ever, we had enough amongst the rest of the troop to let those go free until the soreness abated. It was early in the day when we stopped, shivering in our dripping gannents, without anything to employ the internal until evening, or a spark of fire to heat our benumbed limbs. Under these circumstances, it was proposed that a party should go to the bluffs, about four miles distant, to try and pick up as many sticks of cedar as would cook us a warm supper : a proposition veiy generally ajiproved of We headed towards this tapering rock, called by roamers on the j)rairie Chim^ ney Eock, though, to my eye, there is not a single linea- ment in its outline to .warrant the christening. The Wellington Testimonial in the Phoenix Park, elevated on a Danish fort, would give a much more correct idea of its configuration, though not of its proportions. It is, I should say, five hundred feet high, composed of soft red sandstone, standing out from the adjoining cliffs, not so much like the result of a violent spasm of nature, as if from the wearing and wasting effects of the watery storms that prevail in those forlorn regions. It appears to be fast chipping and crumbling away, and I have no doubt that, ere half a cen- tury elapses, Troja fuit will apply to the Chimney Eock. After surv^eying it on eveiy side, and adorning its base with some hierogl}T3hics, we went about gathering our firewood ; and while ransacldng the ravines I was quite astonished to find considerable deposits of that fine black sand which most generally indicates the presence of gold. I felt very anxious to dig a handkerchief full of earth, and wash it; but fearing, if my conjectures turned out correct, it should originate a diversity of opinion that might lead to a break up of the party, I kept my surmise a secret. I should not be surprised, however, to hear, at no very distant day, that gold had been discovered along the valley of the North Platte. We all got good back loads of diy cedar, which by the time we got to camp produced quite a calorific effect on the system without the process of ignition; three cheers salut- FROM NEW YORK TO C^SXIFORNIA. Ill ing US as we cast tliem on the grouud, for tlie idea of a joiTiiii of hot coffee set us all iu high glee, and, to use a homely phrase, " it would have done your heart good" to have seen the style in which we tucked it in. The cold rain continued all night; and to our great mortification, when we arose ii'om our wet heds m the morning, antici- pating the luxury of a warm breakfast, it turned out tliere was not a splmter of wood left: tlie guai'ds having indis- creetly burned it all during the night. This was very vexatious and provoking, the bluffs being too remote to think of going there again for fir- wood; but during the grumbling a shout of triumph issued from one of the wag- gons, in consequence of finding two large cheeses, the thin boxes aroimd which, and an emaciated cotton shirt, enabled us to concoct a lukewarm beverage, equally devoid of colour and taste: hot coffee par excellence. The continued wet and damp not only saturated our wearing apparel and bed- clothes, but began seriously to affect the best protected packages. The soft sugar began, as the traders say, to "foim foot," dripping tlu'ough the bottom of the waggons; even the refined article became moist and crmnbling; the flom- got mouldy, the powder lumpy, and we had no means or appliances for amending or arresting the evil. Before starting, we helped all tlie animals to a basin each of thick giiiel, which they stood sadly in need of, and then commenced our plashing march tlirough the water, not makhig more than a mile an horn*. We had not pro- ceeded at this snails pace over a few miles, before our lead- ing waggon got stuck fast and deep in a slough : tlie mules being so jibbed and cowed that they could not be got to pull an ounce ; while every moment's pause caused the whole train to settle down so deep in the soft earth tliat it almost looked as if we were destined to remain fixed in the mud until the waters subsided. We tried the task of extrication by selecting ten of the evenest pulling mules, making fast the fifth chains of the other waggons to the point of the tongue, so as to lead to firm footing; and after a tugging strain that partly opened the coupling rings, we got it out of the mire : an operation we had to repeat with the others ; but as a precaution against the recurrence of such mishaps, two horsemen took it in turns to ride ahead to pick out the hardest ground for the future. The rain now changed into sleet that completely be- 11*2 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, numbed us, depriving the drivers of all feeling in their fingers to hold the reins. We did not make over nine miles, and had not even the consolation of hitting on dry- camp ing-ground ; so that the men became wofully depres sed : some of them looking as if labouring under the pre- monitory symptoms of ague, I again served out brandy rations, as a preventive, there being no chance of getting a hot supper. Those not on guard huddled themselves into the waggons to try and generate animal heat by close contact; but with all our endeavours it was about the most triste and dreary night I ever spent in my life. A thick heavy fog hung over us in the morning for awhile, and then rolled away, revealing to us the face of our long-lost friend, the sun, who quickly dispelled the vapours of mind as well, and caused us to forget the chills and ills of the last few days; the cleared atmosphere en- abling us to see ahead a dry rolling prairie, which gave rise to the profane ciy, "Mount Ararat; Mount Ararat, at last!" As we got on the elevated ground, we could see that the bluffs took a cun^e like the tail of a shepherd's crook : a prominent eminence forming the curl at the end. This is called Scott's Bluff, from the body of an enter- prising trapper of that name being found upon it. It is supposed he lost his way, and having crawled up on it for a look out, died of starvation. The sides of the bluffs were no longer smooth and sloping, but bold and inigged, belted with abrupt ledges of sandstone, and split by craggy ravines well wooded with large cedar. As we advanced into the bend of the crook, over a fine rich glassy lea, the scene became heightened in beauty and interest until, close under one of those fantastic cliffs, w^e found a rustic log-hut, the country residence of a Mr. Eouberdean, of St. Louis, a blacksmith by trade, who, foreseeing an active business from the overland emigration, settled himself in this se- questered nook, getting into shai-p collision with the long dormant echoes of the neighbourhood, and taking unto himself a Sioux spouse, a perfect queen of the wilderness, whom I beg leave to introduce as a sister of the Indians who accompanied us from South Platte. We arived at an hour that afforded us ample time to spread out and dry our food, raiment, &c.; but it smacked of desecration to see the enchanting spot, sacred to the spirit of solitude, strewed over with our blue-moulded duds. FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. IIB and the tender flowerets, that would grace a Paradise, crushed beneath flour-hags and flitches of bacon. The distance hence to Fort Laramie was fiftv-five miles, over a rolling country, covered with good pasture, but not calling for any especial notice. We met the Platte at several points, covered as usual with tufty islets, and shot two antelopes, that sufficed us till we amved there. As we were rolling along the second day we saw a man manning across the plain to meet us, who w^e first thought was an Indian, but as he came up proved to be a French trapper, clad in a buckskin suit, with a fine rifle on his shoulder. He spoke tolerable English, expressing his sui-prise that we could have managed to get thus far so early as the '26th of May. He informed us he was the son of an old French trapper, from the Hudson's Bay settlement, brought out by his father when quite a boy; and that after his death he continued the same mode of life, having man-ied tlie daughter of an Indian chief, in whose society he forgot ever^' feeling or desire to visit the crowded thoroughfares of the world, procuring, as he said, the main staples of existence with his gun, and obtaining the few supei'fluities he desires at the fort, in exchange for the skins of the game he kills. "It is no less singular than true," that most men who frequent the hunting-grounds of the Indian, either as trappers or tourists, contract a singular liking for their habits of life; and innumerable instances are on record where men of independent fortune have forsaken the con- ventionalities of polished society for the simple, unsophis- ticated association of those children of nature, demonstrat- ing the inherent tendency of man to the natural in prefer ence to the artificial, wherever free-will is left a loose rein. I gave a carte-hlanche to my imagination as we drew nigh Fort Laramie, in view of the Black Hills (as they are called) at its back, seeing in "my mind's eye" a bold fortress, perched in stem, solitaiy grandeur on a beetling crag, with corbelled battlements bristling with cannon, encircled by chasms, through which mountain toiTents roared venge ance on any of unbidden approach; but, "like the baseless fabric of a vision," my glowing fancy vanished before the wretched reality : a miserable, cracked, dilapidated, adober, quadrangular enclosure, with a wall about twelve feet high, three sides of which were shedded down as stores and workshops, the fourth or front having a two-stoiy^ erection, H -114 ACROSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, with a projecting balcony for hurling projectiles or hot water on the foe, propped all around on the outside with beams of timber, which an enemy had only to kick away and down would come the whole structure. It stands, or rather leans, upon a naked plain by the side of a rapid little river, in which a Frenchman named Laramie was drowned, yielding up his name both to the river and the fort. It is not a military station, but belongs to the "American Fur Trading Company," who keep there a supply of trumpery merchandise, to exchange with the Indian and trapper for such skins as tliey can procure. On its early establishment the beaver abounded in all the rivers of this region; but now the trade is exclusively confined to buffalo robes. It may, however, turn out a point of some importance if the overland route to California and Oregon commands a preference, though in my opinion there are other localities much more eligible as depots for the accommodation of emigrants and travellers. I found Mr. Husband, the manager, or governor, as he is styled, a most obliging, intelligent, and communicative person. He offered us apartments to sleep in, but we did not deem it prudent to make a change in our living in that respect, lest it should afterwards affect om- health. We, however, made use of the forge to tighten our wheel-tires, and make other small repairs connected with the waggon and harness. There were some Indians of the Sioux tribe about the fort trading while we were there; the trading colloquy between whom and Mr. Husband was most amusing; each praising their OAvn and depreciating the value of the other's ware ; rattling away with gi^eat volu- bility, and "suiting the action to the word." It requires great patience to cany on this system of dealing, the smallest bai'gain consuming as much time as the largest transaction ; and it matters not how well soever the article may suit the Indian, or how much he may desire to secure it, he will never give way to precipitancy, yielding up his final acquiescence with an affectation of reluctance. There is, besides the governor, a superintendent and ten men employed in stowing and packing robes and skins, who were all greatly in need of clothing of one sort or another, and tempted us to give them a small supply from our wardrobes in exchange for some picked robes, that were infinitely superior to those we had. We also gave FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 115 them a supply of sugar, coffee, tobacco, and flour, as they were completely out of those necessaries, and did not expect a supply for a couple of montlis. It occupied us forty-three days reaching Fort Lai^amie, our stopping days inclusive, leaving an average for travel- ling days of eighteen miles per day, tlie distance being seven hundred miles from Independence. This, though tedious, was not so very slow, considering the sort of vehicles we travelled in, tlie loads we carried, and the nature of the roads and obstructions we had to deal witli ; but at a futm*e day, when the track is more beaten, and the bad places bridged over and smootlied, it can be accomplished in a much shorter time, tlie more particulaily as a lighter vehicle can be used, and as traders, no doubt, will keep lai'ge stocks of supplies at the different points; cai-avans, instead of encumbering tliemselves with stores and neces- saries for the entire trip, need only cany as much as will be necessaiy from post to post. Since om* favourable experience of Indian disposition from tlie Sioux, tlie project was frequently discussed amongst us of picking out a small party, to go on, by means of pack-mules, from Laramie to California, to have a loca- tion selected for the company by tlie time they got up, and such preliminary' pre^^arations as would enable them to go to work without delay. The smallness of the party was no longer considered a difficulty, and it only remained to agree upon the number, and of whom it was to be made up. Eight at lengtli was decided on as tlie strength to be dl'a^\'n by ballot from those who desired to exchange the tedious conveniences of waggon transit for tlie fatiguing and self-denying mode of travelling by pack-mules. In virtue of my captaincy I was accorded a free choice, and became an ex officio packman. Out of the other seven chosen there were some well suited for the change, but others whose habits and physical conformation rendered them wholly unfit for the undertaking. However, there remained no method of rectifying the matter without creating jealousy and bad feeling. It was aiTanged we w^ere to have a saddle-horse and pack-mule each, much preliminary trouble being avoided by obtaining full-rigged pack-saddles at the fort; but when we came to mention the matter to Mr. Husband, offering the waggons, which should be necessarily abandoned, in exchange for the pack-saddles, 116 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, he discouraged the project as one of very great danger, and earnestly remonstrated ; telling me that the Crows (Indians), through whose country we should pass for at least three hundred miles, were a fierce, cruel, and powerful trihe, wdiose vigilance we could not hope to elude, and that even if our lives were saved (which he did not expect), we would assuredly be stripped of our clothes, provisions, arms, and •animals, which would be tantamount to taking our lives ; for a man might as well be thrown overboard in the ocean -as abandoned in such a condition on the prairie ; illustrating his reasoning with many stories of the barbarous treatment that trappers who fell into their hands from time to time experienced. It was evident he made a deep impression on some of the elect ; but for my part, entertaining an im- pregnable faith in Indian chivalry since my acquaintance with the Sioux, I had made up my mind to inin the risk of being plucked by the Crows if only one more was to join me. The subject was again discussed, and four of the chosen men seceded, leaving, to my great delight, three of the elite of the party to face the danger. This being determined on, there was nothing to prevent the waggons from proceeding, while the making, weighing, and adjusting of the packs would necessarily detain us at least another day. Before starting, however, there was a full muster of the original company, and a vote of thanks passed to me " for the judicious and careful manner I con- ducted the expedition to Laramie," with other complimen- tary addenda I feel too modest to set forth. We retained nothing but absolute indispensables, fonvarding the major part of our clothing by the waggons. Our bread was wholly hard bread, which saved us the carrying of an oven, and vv^e exchanged our bacon for jerked buffalo-beef, of which they had a good supply at the fort. We did not take a tent, as it would be an unhandy article to pack, and desj)atch being our object, we were content to put up with some pri- vations, in order that, with light-loaded animals, we might get to our destination in good time. Mr. Husband got from an old trapper in his employ, who spent all his life in the region, a way-bill or table of route, as well as he could describe it, to Fort Bridger, giving distances and land-marks, by which we could be able to distinguish the places he thought best for camping. I took a copy for my own guidance, and Mr. L s, who was promoted to be FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 117 captain of the waggon-train, vice Kelly packed off, took another, starting at noon on May the ^9tli, to a camping- ground eleven miles from the fort. We, the packers, were now busily employed making pack-sacks of a unifomi size; and stowing and adjusting them, so that they should be of precisely equal weight, as the slightest preponderance would, from the perpetual jolt- ing, sway them over despite of tlie tightest strapping. By evening this branch of preparation was concluded, and our pack-saddles rigged, with cmppers, breechings, lash-ropes,, and apichments. Next morning we caught the mules in- tended for packing, and with the aid iuid instruction of an experienced hand at the fort, commenced by far tlie most bothersome and temper-testing job w^e encountered yet; for as soon as the mules saw the pack-saddles they began shift- ing round and back again, so that we could not place themi on their backs; and when we shortened their tyings to. keep tliem still, they set to plunging and kicking, as if firmly bent on resistance; even two of them, that w^ere hitherto remarkable for their extreme docility, being, amongst the most violent of the rebels. By putting touches, on their ears, however — not having a nigger to seize them in his teeth — we got on the pack-saddles, which (as is -always the case, and constitutes the chief repugnance of the mule to the pack) were girthed to such a degree, that yau would almost think the indentation would cut through the skin, the mules humping their backs and swelling out their bellies to see and burst the ligatures, in which two of them succeeded : one, a roan mule, repeating it no less than five times. As soon as we succeeded in getting them all secured,, we turned them loose upon the plain before putting on their packs, to let them do their worst; and, certainly, such a. display of fantastic tricks and caj^ers, such ground and lofty tumbling, I never saw either otf or on the stage before ;. they backed, jumped, kicked, and ventriloquised, then rolled on the ground, and the roan, failing in freeing himself by those means, turned round his head, and actually tore the accoutrements off his back like a dog. The others gave in after a long bout; but the roan was so totally incorrigible: we were obliged to take him for a riding animal, transfer- ring his pack to the bufialo horse; and even to this mitigated compromise it was very difficult to reconcile him at first, such was his abhorrence to the girth. 118 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, We now got on our packs, taking lessons in the com- plicated art of tying them, which, permit me to assm-e you, requires a long head to remember, and a strong hand to execute, such are the variety and eccentricity of hitchings and twistings, according to the Mexican mode, in which nation the science of packing animals ranks amongst the learned professions. There was another exhibition of capers when the packs were put on, but of a subdued cha- racter and short duration; so that we were in our saddles, each man leading a mule, by two o'clock, intending to pro- ceed to where our waggons camped the previous evening; and taking kind leave of Mr. Husband, who reiterated his lectures and admonitions respecting the Crows, we com- menced our journey anew. I had not used my horse since the accident till now, so he was in fine plight from the rest, his wound being per- fectly healed by the salve I got from the Sioux chief. All things considered, we made a smooth start, moving on slowly but propitiously for two miles or so, when, going down a hill, one of the packs worked so far fonvard the mule became restive, and putting down his head, kicked it over his shoulder, the saddle turning under his belly, and causing him to rear and kick until he liberated himself from all the straps and tyings, which were snapped and broken in divers places. This made a halt inevitable, and by the time ever^lhing was stitched, cobbled, and set to rights, it was too late to proceed. Dming supper large drops of rain forewarned us to look to our packs, for, having no tents, our robes and blankets were the only means we had of protecting them, it being preferable to go without sleep, and submit to a good ducking, rather than have our biscuits transmuted into lumps of dough, and our other provisions and ammunition damaged. It was a cold, trying night, and I xerj much question, if the waggons were at hand, but there would have been other seceders from our limited ranks. Soon after daylight we hauled the pack-animals close up to a cedar stump, and girthed the saddles, leaving them to accommodate themselves to them while we ate our break- fast. This over, we got on the packs, and after a multi- plicity of offers, like children playing finger- cradle, we came upon the right tie at last, moving off under what we con- sidered favourable auspices, and soon gained an elevated FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 11^ ridge of prairie, where a new and truly sublime scene un- folded itself. The fort — which, like many other objects, living as well as inanimate, looks best at a distance — ^had quite an imposing appearance ; reposing on tlie broad plain behind, by the side of its sinuous namesake; Laramie's peak to the south-west, rearing its cedar-clad sides and pointed crest into the clear blue heavens, standmg amidst the black hills like a towering cathedral in a giant city; while, to the north-west, tlie distant Kocky Mountains and the snow-clad summits of tlie Wind liiver range mingled with the clouds, giving a scope to the view that tried the nerves of vision. The country was rolling and verdant in the extreme, though the hills, as viewed at a distance, had a sombre cast, from tlie deep green tint of the foliage tliat covered their sides. We were going along in great glee in this magnificent solitude, congratulating ourselves on the virtues of perseverance in having overcome the troubles and annoyances of packing, and although not yet adepts, look- ing forward at no long time to be peiiect masters of tlie art, when the quietest of the mules, as if in derision of our assurance, began, without any apparent cause whatever, jumping up all fours, and kicking till she burst all the girths and straps, canting the pack and saddle to the ground, with such violence that the latter broke clean off in the middle of the tree. I felt confoundedly annoyed, and let my temper effer- vesce in a variety of anathemas against the whole mulish progeny. It seemed to be a contest who should be the last to offer a suggestion, but there were no two ways about it; we required four pack-animals, and witliout an- other pack-saddle we could not budge. I therefore turned right about and galloped back to the fort, nine miles off, to procure one, getting over the ground at such a rate that I was back, and had the paily again moving precisely two hours from the time of the accident. We took our dinner's on our saddles, and got a refreshing quaff of good water, where we could see, by the fire-rakings, our waggon friends had spent the night before last ; we also filled our canteens and let the animals fill themselves, resolved upon travelling as long as we had light. It was a delightful ride, ascending and descending grassy hills, and winding through sweet avenues, shaded with cedars of enormous growth, and fragrant with the delicious 120 ACEOSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, odours of scented shrubs and blossoming bushes. Towards dusk we came mto a broken ravine, where winter floods are wont to revel; and, hoping to reach good grass and water at the other end, were enticed to proceed, from bend to bend, until the moon, now at the full, lit up our path with her chaste silvery radiance. In passing through one of its narrow gorges we were startled unexpectedly by the noise of sticks snapping under our tread, and as we listened, every man silently but instinctively laosened his rifle from the loop, anticipating a surprise, but no Indian made his appearance. I believe, in reality, the sounds arose from the startling of deer, or some other animals, at our untimely intrusion. We emerged on an extensive plain, where, how- ever, I found on alighting the herbage so short I thought it better to proceed, as it could not prove worse. Conver- sation was suspended during the residue of our march, for as we rode by the side of our cold shadows on the trackless plain, f^u% far away from aid or succour, the admonitions of Mr. Husband obtruded themselves upon our minds, and wrapj)ed us in a contemplative resen e, until at the bottom of a slope, on the south-west, the beams of the moon now appeared to be reflected from a sheet of w^ater, which, though some distance at right angles with our path, we re- solved to camp at, lest in our moonlight rambling we should lose our reckoning. Next day at dawn we resumed our march, the route being over high rounded hills of light calcareous soil, without any timber, till noon, wlien they became bolder and broken, and intersected with streams. We ti'avelled a few hours by the banks of one brisk rivulet not laid down by name in my way-bill, where we were sorely tempted to wait an hour, it was so thickly inhabited with flsh. Deer were veiy plentiful about, and bufl'alo, too, were frequently seen in very small herds of twos and fours, on which we could have easily stolen, from the nature of the country; but being now with pack-mules, we could not hamper ourselves with an atom beyond our positive requirements. Calcula- ting we would continue to meet streams throughout the day, we held on our course; imagining, too, that it was just possible we might overhaul the waggons before night. The hills became steeper and more thickly timbered as we advanced, pine being largely interspersed with the cedar; but we got seat-sore and our horses jibby, without any FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 121 prospect of water; and having come, according to our estimate, full forty miles, I was unwilling to trespass more upon the animals; but the day had been so hot, and the evening so close and sultry, tliere was no doing without it. We all alighted, leading our horses; the mules, having become reconciled to their new employment, followed, with- out leading, poking into every split or crevice, until we became so jaded, three out of the four voted for a halt; but the other gentleman, being better bottomed and more sanguine, left us his horse and went on by himself round an angle of timber in quest of a pool or brook. He was absent some time, and we were indulging in a wayside snoose, with the stock browsing around us, when I thought a whistle struck upon my tymi^anum. I listened a little, and the shrill notes were repeated; so I roused my com- panions, who toddled on, seeing our friend, as we rounded the clump, sitting by the edge of a pool of water. This cheered up our flagging spirits, and we hastened fonvard to cool our cracking palates; the horses, too, espying the precious banquet that glistened before them, ti'od upon our heels in their anxiety to reach it, while the unmannerly mules did not wait for tlieir masters, but scampered off to have the first of the feast. A sad mortification, however^ awaited us, for the water was a stagnant mineral pooU emitting a foetid stench, too strong even for our seasoned nerves, or those of the animals, which did nothing more than smell to it. We were greatly out of sorts at the disappointment: our chaginn being increased by tlie way in which our friend seemed to enjoy it; but as he saw we got sulky and querul-. ous, he pulled his canteen from behind him, and stopped our mouths effectually with a draught of most delicious water, pointing to some green willows at the base of the hill, where there was a bubbling well of ciystal water, of which we drank so liberally, although aware that it was im- proper, that we lost all relish for supper. It was laughable to see the mules (for they could only get in one at a time between two rocks) nipping the posteriors of him in pos- session, until retaliation became stronger than thirst. There was a little drawback to our gi-atification, though, in the number of fresh mocassin prints about the place, clearly not over a day old, which prevented my firing at a buck 1^^ ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, that passed quite close to us, lest the report should bring some unbidden guests to supper. We were also content to forego the pleasure of a fire on the same account, making our evening's repast on jerked beef and biscuit. Next morning we got upon a magnificent alluvial bottom, stretching north and south for some miles, with a broad belt of heavy timber winding through it, from which, as we ap- proached, we heard the sounds of running water : a lovely stream, fifty feet wide, coursing covertly within its shade. From this we began to ascend a high wooded ridge for better than two miles, from the top of which we saw a thin column of smoke issuing through the trees below, exactly in the direction of our trail. As this could only proceed from an Indian encampment, we diverged in a southerly course, under the influence of the axiom that "the better part of valour is discretion;" nor had we any obstacles to contend with, as there was no brush whatever, and the sod was as smooth as the close-mowed beds of a pleasure- ground. As we descended into the bosom of the vale, nearly on a parallel with the place from- which the smoke issued, we could distinctly hear at intei'\'als the swell of voices, succeeded a moment after by a wild, prolonged whoop, which, of course, we set down as the result of their having descried us through some of the long vistas in the timber. Now came the time for testing the disposition of the Crows, as I imagined ; and while I strove to satisfy myself they were a chivalrous tribe, misrepresented like the Sioux, I could not, by any process of assurance, gain over my nerv^es from a prejudice in favour of Mr. Husband's opinions. However, we proceeded as if nothing had occurred, and everything being in readiness, there was a positive injunc- tion that no one should attempt to fire until the evil inten- tions of the Indians were made manifest. The question was asked, *'If they were to drive off the animals, how should we act?" The answer was, " Fire by all means," as, without them, we might as well be on a barren rock in the ocean. Hearing no further sounds, we made sure they were closing upon us stealthily ; still we could not discover any sign of their approach. We were now ascending the oppo- site rise, midway up which the timber ceased, and were at first undecided whether we should emerge from it or not, as we would then be without any screen; but the Fabian policy not suiting our book, we went steadily ahead, and FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 123 passed over the crown of the ridge without any interrup- tion, which led us to tliink the shout originated from some other cause, and that we were still unobserved: a conjectm'e I believe to be correct, for we neither saw nor heard any symptoms of further Indians dming the day. The cormtry was broken and exceedingly undulating: sparely covered with timber in the vicmity of streams, in which, curious enough, not a bird of any description was to be seen; nor had the notes of a feathered warbler sa- luted our ears since we left Laramie, though we passed through groves and dells where one would think they would delight to dwell. However, their paucity was coun- terbalanced by the swarms of crickets and large ants, wliich continued to increase as we penetrated the black hills, imtil the surface became completely covered witli them, so that you could not avoid killing several at every stej^. They kept up a purring sort of noise, and emitted a veiy disagi-ee- able effluvia, and also annoyed our animals exceedingly, for some of them that could fly would come bang against a mule's or hoi*se's nose, and make him wheel suddenly round, to the danger of his rider, or disaiTangement of his pack. I got a blow from one myself under the eye, which drew blood slightly, and caused a swelling and great dis- colouration of the skin. Ever}' hollow we passed through was watered with a nice stream of cool, clear water, aii'ord- ing good picking along the banks. We travelled to an advanced hour, expecting to see the waggons in coiTal from eveiy hill we ascended ; but we had to halt for the night without any other society than ants and crickets. We tried various modes of banishing those disagreeable visitors, and had recourse as a last expecUent to firing a patch of grass on a small knoll, where we purposed resting our wearied limbs; but the last curl of smoke had no sooner passed away than they again invaded the wasted territory, leaving us without any alternative but to lie down in the crowd with handkerchiefs over our faces, least any of them should jump down our throats in the dark by mis- take. I also tied the legs of my pantaloons at the bot- toms, to prevent their playing leapfrog on my shins or elsewhere, but remained a long time sleepless, as I felt them climbing up the sides of my cheeks and wanning their toes round where the breath exlialed through the silk. 1 24 ACROSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, CHAPTER X. Large dry River-bed — Notice nailed to a Tree — Forced Marches of the Waggons — BuflFalo Break — Long Day's Journey — No Sign of Waggons — Bad Policy of forcing Travel on such a Journey — Indians about — Report of a Gun at Daybreak — Our Waggon Friends at length — The Ferry of the Platte — Mormon Encamp- ment — The Crossing — Lamentable Accident — Incommunicativeness of the Mor- mons — Fearful Mule-track above the River — Description of the Passage — The'* Sand Tick Nuisance — " Travelling makes us acquainted with Strange Bedfellows" — Artemesia — " Long Threatening comes at last" — The Crow Indians — We treat them with Confidence — They treat us witli Treachery — The ScufHe — Our Good Fortune — Anniliilation of our Packing Fixtures — Ruse to Escape their Vengeance — Midnight Travel — Come up to the Waggon Camp — New Arrangement — Vol- canic Debris — Bitter Water — Distant View of the Wind River Range — Salera- tus Lakes — The Sweetwater — Independence Rock — Misnomer of the River — Wonderful Canon — Our Last Buffalo — Surprise a Party of Crows — Their great Fright — Artemesia Fire — No Buffalo west of the Rooky Mountains. We arranged an early start, in order to make sure of catch- ing up with our company, and were, accordingly, moving at the gray dawn. The countiy was veiy hilly for about ten miles, and then gradually subsided into large level tracts. We crossed in the course of the morning a river, which, from the width and depth of its nearly diy bed, must be one of veiy large volume in the wet seasons, though there were no mountains nor hills in view calculated to feed such a current, and we nooned rather late at another river, broad and rapid, where we found a notice nailed to a tree, informing us " that our company had camped there the night before," leaving them the whole morning's travel still ahead, which proved they must have been forcing up the steam rather strongly, making their daily average over twenty-five miles, to show us packers, I suppose, that we could not so easily outstrip them after all. We began our evening's march at a brisk pace, determined to join them, but soon got into a sandy district, with the travelling \QYy deep and distressing, where we met a herd of about a dozen buffalo, ploughing, down through it at full split, with their long tongues hanging and dripping, as if they were after a FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 1J25 long chase. It so hapj^ened that we would just meet, and come in contact, had we and they contmued their course; so we therefore gave way, reining in till they passed close by the noses of our horses ; for so detemiined were they to go straight on that they would have inished over and tram- pled on us. It was evident they broke from pursuit, as they would not of their own accord go at such a rate ; but whe- ther it was from a hunting party belonging to tlie wag- gons, or from Indians, we had no means of judging. The sand-flat was bounded by a low ridge of the same material, where the animals sank to their bellies at eveiy «tep; but as soon as we got over it we again espied the Platte, with a lovely level gi-ass plain betwixt it and the sand-ridges, stretching away beyond view, witliout nish or bramble, or a glimpse of the waggons to gladden the sight. We now increased our pace to a smart canter, crossing nu- merous clear streams, running eagerly to lose their fair name in the contaminating flood at our side; and continuing at this rate for eight or ten miles, we were disappointed at not catching up with tlie waggons, though, by the look of the ordure, they certainly could not have passed more than an hour. It was now seven o'clock, and our horses showed they had come more than forty miles : my brother packers as well betraying tokens of lassitude ; but I coaxed them on as far as a clump of cotton-wood trees, about two miles ahead, where I promised to stop, whether we overtook the others or not; and there we did stop without finding them. It was very desirable, no doubt, to get over the journey as quickly as possible ; but it was very bad policy to make forced marches without any urgent necessity, with fifteen hundred miles, the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra Ne- vada, yet to be surmounted. This I strongly felt, though no longer responsible, and made up my mind to express it the moment I had the opportunity. According to our way-bill, and comparing it with our computed travel, we could not be far off the next crossing of the Platte: the point I now conjectured they strove to make, and one, from what I heard of its difficulty and dan- ger, I sincerely wished we were all safe over, as its channel there gets so comparatively narrow, it becomes much too deep for fording; while its current is so excessively swift, that the passage in a waggon-bed is a matter of extreme risk and labour. The sands about our encampment bore the 136 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, impress of mocassins and bare feet so thickly and so newly made, that the wonder was we could not see any living proofs of the Indian neighbourhood; and I assuredly should have been much more comfortable to have seen them in propria 2)ersona than to remain under the impression that they were lurking about us. As we could not by any means expect to get clear through their territory imseen, leading the errant life they do, I was anxious at once to meet the redoubted Crows, and be relieved from further suspense whatever might be the consequence. We left the crickets and ants on the other side of the sand-hills, but in their stead we had gloomy visions of black Crows, more than three in number, to haunt our slumbers. We tied on our packs and saddled our horses in the morning twilight, and soon after commenced our march ; startling deer and antelope out of every slope, but giving them no molestation. About the time the sun arose, the report of a gun reached our ears, at which I cantered on to the rise before us, and there had revealed to view our fugi- tive friends in the act of hitching up. It was just as I ex- pected : the waggon animals had been overdriven, as was evidenced by their raw shoulders and sluggish gait. They pressed us for an exchange, to which I acceded in so far as the mule "as would not pack," and another with a sore tail, caused by a bad crupper; the raw shoulders being of as little moment in j)acking as the sore tails in harness. We travelled on in company to the crossing point, discuss- ing the matter in all its bearings, and arranging the order of work; but as I was accustomed to boats and boating all my life, I was obliged to consent to be the Palinurus of the occasion, steering the light waggon-bed, for which we had a capital set of paddles, knowing that the necessity for using them would frequently arise. However, to our great relief and joy, we foimd at the crossing a body of Mormons, strongly intrenched in a heavy timber palisading, for their own protection and the security of their animals, as they informed us they had been attacked by the Crows en route; and as they beat them off, their numbers being then small, they apprehended an attack from a larger body. Not very consolatory tidings for us packers, but we swallowed them without a question, and held our peace. The Mormons, always on the look-out for gain as well as glory — or salvation, more properly speaking — travelled FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 127 all tlie way from Salt Lake, over four hundred miles, to establish a ferry, anticipating a large overland emigration, and knowing there was no otlier point of passing, they had finished two dug-out canoes since tliey came, on whicli they constructed a large platform, capable of cariying a loaded waggon in safety. This stinicture they worked with three large oars, one at each side, and one as a rudder, getting over smoothly enough, but at a temble slant, which gave them hard labour in again working up against the stream, even with the assistance of two yoke of oxen pulling on the bank as on a canal. We got all our waggons, packs, luggage, harness, &c. over without any accident or inteiTuption, but not so our animals; those we drove up a quarter of a mile, to give them space enough to work to the otlier shore at the proper landing, where alone tliey could get out as they reached the bank; and I have no doubt they would have gone over as they did on former occasions, by driving them in, but a young man, named Masters, took it into his head, contraiy to the general remonstrance, to ride the bell-mare, getting on very well for two-thirds of the way, to where the chiumel of the river ran with a seething sweep along the opposite shore. Here the mare, instinctively dreading the danger, turned round as she felt the influence of the cun^ent, and nearly all the mules being close upon lier haunches, were carried, by their own impetus and that of tlie flood, right against her, rolling her and her rider under the water, and passing clean over. It was some moments after they passed when the mare again appeared, but she came to the surface with- out a rider, swimming languidly, unable to stem the stream, and pulling up her head violently at times, as if the bridle got foul of something below. We ran do-wn tlie banks on each side, hoping to get a glimpse of poor Masters; not that we expected, after such a lapse of time, we could rescue him alive, but w^e were desirous to pay him the poor tribute of a iTide burial. The mare at length gained the other shore, fully a mile below the point at which tlie waggons landed, but instead of struggling up to diy land, she stood with her head drooped, looking so exhausted she seemed imable to move. Two of the men went down to where she was, and finding a w^eight attached to the bridle, they pulled at it, bringing to the surface one of poor Masters's arms, who had the rein fiimly clutched in his hand in his death- 1*28 ACPwOSS THE BOCKY MOUNTAINS, grasp, which was the cause of the bad landing made bv the mare, and of the tugging and chucking with her head that we remarked after her submersion. We had no wood to make a coffin, so we wraj^ped the body in a blanket, and lowered it into a deep grave, marking the spot with a stump of a cotton-wood tree, on which we carved his name and the manner of his death. I did not feel disposed to recommence travelling that evening, nor would we, if there had been any grass about; but it was drifting sand all around, leaving us no other alter- native but going on about five miles to where the Mormons said we should find good camping, as they stopped there at good grass and water, on their way across. They re- quested j)ayment of the ferryage in coffee and flour, allow- ing us a price that left a profit of two hundred per cent. and gave us a fresh way-bill up to the point where the Salt Lake trail diverges in a more southerly direction from the one we were to follow. Having a great desire to visit the new settlement of the Latter-Day Saints, as they delight in styling themselves, I made several inquiries respecting the difference of distances and comparison of routes, should we take it into our heads to change our minds and go that way; but I saw there was an evident reluctance to impart any encouraging information, as if they disliked the idea of our passing through their capital. I could not then divine the reason ; but this very coyness only served to in- crease my anxiety, as interdict is always sure to beget desire, since the season of the memorable apple down to the days of Bluebeard, and thence to the present gener- ation. The waggons, from the very deep sand and high hills were constrained to make a wide circuit; but with the pack-mules we took an Indian foot trail along the river in a direct line : the banks becoming high and precipitous as we 2:)roceeded, and the path continuing to run close by the edge. After a few miles progress we commenced ascending the hip of lofty sandstone bluffs in single file, as the trail would not admit of more. It wound uj) the heights impending over the river at such easy gradients that we scarcely perceived our elevation, until we came to a sharp angle, where it sud- denly narrowed, and the side of the hill became perfectly upright, with the river foaming at its base. My horse stopped short with a snort and a shudder that first made FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 1'29 me feel the imminence of the danger; there was bai'ely space for him to stand, as he leant inwards, crushing mv knee and shoulder against the face of the rock. I looked cautiously round to see if there was any chance of retracing our steps, but immediately saw tliere was none, not even room for a goat to turn round ; while the horsemen and pack-animals were all in a string, quite close togetlier, 2)ressing against one another in consequence of my stop. I felt my head queer, and would have dismounted if I could, but this was inqiracticable. While wavering from nervous- ness in this awful situation, my horse got a smart nip be- hind from an impatient mule, that made him wince ; and what with the squealing and noise in the rear, I knew they were biting and crowding each other, of which I had soon further proofs by their shoving bodily forwai'd my trembling nag; so, seeing there was nothing for it but to advance, I gently urged him, giving him full rein, when, with stooped head and distended eyes, he shuffled forward a little; lean- ing aside so much that he lacerated my knee veiy badly ; till coming to a place where the path shelved so quickly out- wards as to render the limited footing feaifully hazardous, he propped out his fore-legs, as if resolutely bent on going no further; but tliere was no time for a second's reflection, when the mules came bump against him, with an impetus that sent him sliding along. I now yielded myself to fate, expecting the next instant would consign me to eternity; and was so completely robbed of consciousness I did not observe how the pass was got over. When I was able to draw a full breath I saw we had attained our greatest eminence, and though we had a little more room for descending, it was so steep that the only mode of getting down was by sliding on the breech. This was fine fun for the mules, who are perfectly at home in such places, and actually seemed to enjoy the teiTor of the 'horses, as I have seen boys ridicule the apprehensions of their more timid companions ; for when mine would essay a cautious slide, the imp behind would cast himself off with such reckless abandonment, as to come on tlie top of us in a few yards, his fore-feet on my shoulders, and indulging in a jocular pinch at every pause. As we descended, however, both man and horse got re-assured, and I felt myself per- fectly at ease, when my horse, to make up for a long arrear of joking and nipping, sent out his heels with a whizz that /^ ^^-'^ QW TLiir 130 ACKOSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, put an end to the game for the present. It was a trying half hour, and I do not think I could be bribed by all the gold the mules could carry to ride over the same track again. We came to the camp-ground and had our food cooked before the waggons came up. Being here on a considera- ble eminence, with a strong cool breeze blowing, we were not much troubled with musquitoes, but there was a sand- tick, like a small beetle, that crawled all over us, finally fixing on delicate places, where they stuck themselves into the skin with a tenacity that tested the strength of the finger-nails in dislodging them. There was nothing of the Epicurean about them either, for they did not exhibit a partiality or preference for any one sample of blood over another, each individual being fully favom-ed with their patronage. Our skins looked as if we had spent the night under soot-drops ; but the worst of it was, they got estab- lished in legions in the buifalo robes, from which there was no combing them. I often heard the old saying quoted, that " Poverty makes us acquainted with strange bedfel- lows;" but if I have any finger in the next edition of the Book of Proverbs, I would substitute "Travelling" for "Po- verty," and maintain I would be fully warranted for the liberty with antiquity. From the length of our daily journeys since we left Laramie, we thought it but fair play to the animals to give them a day of comparative ease, by travelling slowly with the waggons ; so next morning we permitted them to start two hours before us. The country in this region is hilly, broken, and sandy, covered with artemesia (wild sage), which we here met for the first time. There were lots of antelope, and when we overtook the waggons we found they had shot two. It was very late ere we reached a place to enjoy our mid-day rest; and half-blinded though we were with the drifting sand, we discovered in many places numerous horse-tracks coming from the opposite direction, which we knew must be Indians, as we met no travellers : the party, as we surmised, from whom the Mormons ap- prehended the attack; and I am almost ashamed to admit we were selfish and unamiable enough to felicitate ourselves on the supposition that they were travelling evidently in a different course from us. About three o'clock we came to a brackish stream, flow- FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 181 ing through a level han-en tract, surrounded by high hills, and covered with a thick plumage of artemesia. Halting here, we gave tlie waggons another start; but just as we were in the act of mounting, after tying on our packs, a body of Crow Indians came down upon us at a sharp gallop. The moment we perceived them, with one im- pulse every rifle was levelled against them, but I forbade the pulling of a trigger without orders. They as instantly pulled up short, seeming to converse with one anothei\ There was one squaw amongst them, with a great head- dress of feather, and as well as we could count, thirty-seven men, all nobly mounted. After a short conversation they came forward at a slow walk, making pacific signals of all sorts. My comrades, I must do them the justice to say, were averse to allowing them to come amongst us, and wished to fire ; but bearing in mind how agreeably I was undeceived by the Sioux, I over-persuaded them to pennit the Crows to approach. I mounted my horse in the front, while the chief and two others advanced, one on each side and one right before me ; he held out his hand, and as I returned the civility, dropping my rifle on tlie horn of my saddle, and poising it with my left hand, he seized it with a fimi grasp, the fellow on the opposite side clutching the rifle ; but as both our hands Avere moist from perspiration, I succeeded in freeing myself, and pulled my revolver from my belt; my left side opponent, at tlie same time laying the muzzle of an old carbine on my cheek, which providentially missed . fire, while the savage in front seized hold of the bridle- rein ; but the horse, excited by the bustle, reared from the restraint, and pawing out violently, struck him a severe blow, that unhorsed and disabled him. Mean time, as I wheeled round I saw the remainder of the band scuffling with my comrades, and others vainly endeavouring to drive off the mules from the horses; at length, as one of our parfy got a gash from a tomahawk, and our peril became pressing, Mr. D e discharged a pistol, breaking the jaw of a savage, who set up a wild howl, and followed it up by firing another barrel, that took effect in the withers of an Indian horse, and sent him and his rider off in full retreat, followed closely by five or six others ; the remainder i)aus- ing to calculate the chances, w^ere decided in their course by a joint discharge, which sealed the doom of one, and 13*2 ACROSS THE flOCKY MOUNTAINS, caused the others to fly. Those who ran first now turned, and fired three guns, one of which grazed S. M'Q n on the cheek; but from the extraordinaiy whizzing of their contents, I think they must have been loaded with stones, that did not present a smooth surface to the atmosphere. In return for this we discharged two rifles, that brought another fellow down, and carried further dismay amongst them, if we were to judge by the rapidity of their flight. Of course we did not attemjDt pursuit; we had quite enough to do to get our mules together and re-arrange our packs, several of which were thrown ofl" and scattered in the melee, and our accoutrements so smashed and tattered, it was a question if we could manage to bring all along, so as to rejoin the waggon, for we apprehended a night attack, in which w^e could have no earthly chance by ourselves. While endeavouring to patch up, we saw our enemies watching us from the heights, which humed our efforts at dispatch, for fear they should come down upon us with a reinforcement; but it was a long hour before we could manage to start, and then at so slow and cautious a pace, lest our temporary fixings should give way, that I felt we could not come up wdth the waggons by sun-down. Knowing we were dogged, and could only escape by a ruse, when night came on we made a feint of camping, and lit a large fire, as if we intended settling for the night ; but as soon as it became dark we buckled up again, and set fonvard, calculating on a good start, as we knew they would wait until they thought we would be locked in sleep. It was j)rovokingiy dark, one of us being obliged to walk to pick out the trail; and to add to our hazard and vexation, the mules now and then uttered a bray, expressive of their astonishment at our unusual proceedings, which we thought rendered our detection inevitable. At length, after three hours' groping in the dark, they set up a simultaneous braying, as if the foe was in the midst of them, but, to our great relief, it elicited a congenial response not far off,'*that gave token of our j)roximity to the waggon-camp. The noise and bustle of our arrival aroused all the men, who, in their great anxiety to hear all particulars, kept us up until the gray streak along the horizon foretold the approach of day. On overhauling our trappings in the morning, we found them in such a sorry state it would have been madness to FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 133 think of proceeding without a thorough repair ; and in talk- ing the matter dispassionately over again, we all agreed, as a funny fellow remarked, " that the Crows gave us caws for coinciding in Mr. Husband s opinion at last;" so we entered into a new an^angement : one of us going to each waggon or mess, and taking our animals to strengthen the teams, leaving six to the waggon (save one), and from the strength of om* troop of animals, and their spirits and condition, we felt sanguine about making a speedy trip of it. The day's journey was tln-ough a scorched-looking coun- tiy, covered with volcanic debris, veiy thickly strewn in places, and the water, evei'j'Avhere we met it, so strongly impregnated at one time with salt, at another with sulphur and alkali, that it was wholly unfit for use. The sun was veiy hot, and we were con-espondingly thirsty, when we came to a beautifully pellucid pond, from which issued a laughing, giu'gling stream, that caused us all to huny for- ward to bathe our shrivelled lips in its cool liquid; but alas ! we found it an an-ant cheat, so thoroughly briny as to be altogether imdrinkable : even the nmles would not condescend to sip it; they, however, bathed themselves well in it by lying down, and seemed much refreshed by the operation. The conical peaks of the Wind Eiver range of snowy mountains were very visible this evening, as well as the in- dentation on the summit of the Rocky Mountains, which has got the name of the South Pass. We passed several small lakes, which presented a veiy strange appearance to the untravelled eye, looking like large fields of frosted snow, but were thick incnistations of carbonate of soda, caused by the evaporation of the mineral waters. It looked so beautifully jmre, and tasted so well, we threw out all our chemical compounds, and supplied ourselves liberally with superior saleratus from this great natural laboratoiy, which we found made better bread than what we were in the habit of using. Soon after leaving them, we struck the Sweet- water: a river of considerable magnitude, which we heard abounded with fish ; but I cannot confirm the character by our experience, for we did not get as much as a solitary nibble, though we tried hard. Our camp this evening was at the base of Independence Eock, as the trappers call it, which stands close by the river, on a stoneless plain, iso- lated and immense; and although one would suppose it 134 ACROSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, must be the result of some angry whim of nature, there is no trace of convulsion about its smooth f^ce or level bed to warrant the conclusion. The Sweetwater is altogether a misnomer, being decidedly bitter, and carrying so much alkali in solution as to be de- structive to fish. Five or six miles beyond our camp it canons* through a perpendicular fissure, called Devil's Gate, where it rushes with great noise and velocity through its pent-up channel, along which there is no margin what- soever : the rocks rising on each side about three hundred feet high. We crossed the river ere we came thus far, where it spreads out on a shallow gravelly bed, enabling us to ford it without difficulty. At the Devil's Gate we left the river, proceeding over a fertile level prairie, where we shot our last buffalo, and were near losing a horse (not our bufi'alo horse) into the bargain ; he got gored up the thigh, very narrowly escaping having the wound in the flank, where it would have been fatal. Although rising and de- scending for several weeks over hills and rising ground, it was evident the balance w^as largely in favour of ascent, but from Independence Eock the upward incline was almost invariable, and much of the ground deep heavy sand, which made our progress veiy slow indeed. At noon we met the Sweetwater again, and were very much puzzled whether to cross and proceed u]3 a narrow- defile, where there were some traces of a trail, or keep on the side we were; at length we decided on remaining on the southern side, and fagged along till we came to a wil- lowy dip of land, where w^e got grass' and water. Before we halted we saw through the glass some Indians crouched on the brow of a hill that lay to the left hand of our course, and as we got into a hollow that hid us temporarily from their view, six horsemen galloped round to outflank them. I kept my eye on them through the glass as we again came in sight, but they did not appear to suspect anything at the moment; very shortly, however, thirteen or fourteen of them jumped up and disappeared, at the next instant re- appearing on horseback. Plunging down the steep hill- side before us, we galloped at them, raising a tremendous shout, that was taken up and echoed by our fiiends in the rear, so that the poor devils fancied themselves done for. * Canon signifies a gorge. FKOM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 13^ They rode like furies: jumping tlirough the thick hushes of arteniesia; hut although we could readily have shot some of them, we had no idea of harming tliem, merely getting up the affair as a little pastime to keep the men's spirits from stagnating. They dropped two fine rohes, a hlack beai'-skin, some hows and arrows, and a couple of tilings that I tliink, from the way in which they fit the head, were intended for war-masks. We had tliis evening our first fire of ai'temesia, w^hich throws out gi'eat heat, but is too quick for comfort. It is a sti-ange but benign provision of Providence, without which it would be a matter of extreme difficulty, if not entire im- possibility, to cross the plains, tliat as the buftalo-chip becomes scarce the artemesia increases in abundance, and affords the unsheltered traveller a fire to cook his food, when no other fuel is within his reach upon tlie desert sands. I suppose it is the prevalence of tliis shrub that stops the buffalo ; for you cease to meet a single indication of its presence within the region where it prevails; their range in those latitudes being confined to tie eastward of the Eocky Mountains: the only game that inhabits those vast and dreary wastes being the wary antelope. CHAPTER XL Lodge Pole-marks — Indian mode of Removing — Increase of Artemesia and Lizards — Fine View — South Pass— Contrast with the Imagination — Horse and Lodge Pole- marks — Cold Nights and Hot Days — Immense Indian Encampment — Our Feelings on seeing it— Move down to Camp on the River opposite them— Saluted by a White Man in our own Language — M. Vastiuoz, of Fort Bridger — Tells us they are Shoshonee, or Snake Indians— Their Character and Habits— Adopt the Salt Lake Route — Origin of Fort Bridger — M. Vasquez's Speculation — Imposing Cor- tege—Trade with the Snakes— Enter the South Pass— The Pacific Springs — Thoughts of Home— Royal Bedfellow— Distance from Independence— Thoughts on Waggon Travel — Excitement of Travelling in New Countries — Severe Frost — Mountain Sickness — Appearance of the Country — Curious Buttes — The Little Sandy — Big Sandy — No Heath in America — Green River — Story of the Old Paw- nee Mocassin. Next day we got out of the deep sandy distiict into a hght sandstone soil, covered with a short close herbage, the coimtiy very roUing, and some of the ascents veiy long, but 186 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, excessively steep. There was no timber at all within view, nor any feature nor object that lent a common interest to the view, so far as scenery was concerned ; but in the course of the morning we saw innumerable horse-prints and count- less lodge-pole trails directly in our route, and travelling in the same direction. Those we knew were the marks of a tribe of Indians, travelling with all their household goods to settle in a new location. The marks were new, and from our comparative rates of travelling, we imagined they would gain considerably on us, a circumstance A\diich, from their apparent numbers, would afford us infinite satisfac- tion. We were in expectation, too, that they might diverge and leave our course free. We struck the Sweetwater again, rather early for stop- ping, but as the feed was abundant, and we did not know how soon we should meet water again if we went on, we remained on its banks for the night, and damaged a good deal of our provisions in getting over it, as it proved much deeper than we expected. There was no fuel except ar- temesia, of which we made our fragrant fires ; but it was a perfume we were soon destined to get tired of and dis- gusted with. The sand-ticks were here in great force, and soon fastened an acquaintance on us ; there were also im- mense numbers of small lizards flitting about, from which, however, we experienced no annoyance, as they are timid reptiles, and avoid the neighbourhood of man. Although the days were oppressively wann, we had severe frosts at night, and even within our tents the hair on the edges of our robes were quite white. In the moiTi- ings, at dawn, the brilliant sun, sparkling on the hoar drapery of the distant Wind River range, had a fine effect ; but the inhospitable aspect of the dreaiy wastes of sage and sand, almost incapable of supporting aught else than insects and reptiles, cast a saddening gloom over the spirits. The South Pass was now clearly distinguishable, widely differing from the pass we pictured in our glowing fancies. The name of the Eocky Mountains and the South Pass engendered a chain of mental associations that conjured up ideas of stupendous crags and beetling cliffs, on the peaked summits of which the fleecy clouds perj)etually nestled on spotless beds of everlasting snow, and narrow chinks and darkened chasms, through which the trembling traveller huiTied, fearing to pause and contemplate the sublime FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 137 creations of nature, lest the dripping crags should close and shut him into eternity. How widely different was the rea- lity: a range of rounded mountains, without cone or peak, with a sloping gap some thirty miles wide, was approached so gradually, that only for the temperature at night, you could scarcely conceive you were on the summit of one of the ranges which in our geographical lessons we were wont to consider one of the great manels of creation. We had the horse-tracks and lodge-pole trails still ahead of us on our path, making, no douht, for the pass too. The countiy was much the same as yesterday, hut the " indecent sun" kept *' baking, broiling, burning on," though we were near seven thousand feet above the heads of our numerous acquaintances and distant relations. We made no noon stop, having had no temptation; nor, from appearances around, was there any prospect of better evening's fare. So I sent (for be it known to you I was re-instated in my command) to examine the countiy, and find a good camping- ground, even were it out of our line, for it was impossible our animals could work unless their stamina was kept up by nutriment. About four o clocl^ we saw them returning , on the trail we were travelling, but could distinguish by their gait and air that "our course did not run smooth." They found w^ater: that is, they saw it at a distance from them ; and they also found, that is, they saw at a distance from them, beside the stream, an immense Indian encamp ment, surrounded with amultitude of horses; so large that they questioned the prudence of proceeding. It was rather a difficult card to play, so I called a temporary halt to canvass opinion, and prepare, if necessary, for the encounter, for we were still in the country of the Crows : the Rocky Mountains being the boundaiy of their dominions to the westward. It was admitted that water should be had at all risks or hazards; but the lie of the countiy forbade the hope of finding it in any other direction; and, moreover, as our party had been unavoidably seen by the Indians, it was quite as w^ell to go on and risk a conflict where they were as elsewhere, for they would assuredly follow us if bent on mischief. The preponderance of those considera- tions being in favour of going straight on, we made no further delay : looking to our arms and ammunition as we advanced. An hour's march brought us within view of the encampment, wiiich covered thirty acres : the hill-sides for 138 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, more than three miles around being actually alive with horses and ponies. As we descended the slope towards the river I kept a sharp look-out through the glass, to see if they were pre- paring any hostile demonstration, but I discerned none: not even as much as a curious group striving to gaze at the equipments of the pale-faces. I thought I could perceive an object like a waggon in the middle of their camp ; how- ever, the improbability of such a circumstance made me place it to other accounts. We now got so close that all their motions could be seen distinctly with the naked eye ; yet they did not appear to take the slightest notice, or be- stow any attention on us. Some were squatted, with their papooses playing about them, and others were moving about amongst the wig-wams and horses. Our waggons came along as close as they could travel, with the horsemen close up too; but as the trail leading to the ford and from it penetrated the very centre of the encampment, I deter- mined on j)itching our tents on our own side, though the feed was very indifferent, thinldng, if they did not attack, they might move off early in the morning and leave the road open ; besides, it would be easier to guard our animals. However, as we were drawing up into corral, a white man, habited in civilised costume, approached, riding over the stream, shouting loudly but unintelligibly, which caused me to go down to ascertain his meaning; when, after salu- ting me politely, he introduced himself as M. Vasquez, of Fort Bridger. He told me we had better cross into the good pasture, as there was no danger to be apprehended, for though still in the Crow country, the tribe on the other side were the Shoshonee or Snake Indians, a most peaceable, well-dis- posed people, who intermarry largely with the Crows ; and that this party were now on their way to their own country, after wintering amidst their connexions. I did not there- fore hesitate, and M. Vasquez had a good site fixed on for our camp when we got over, vouching we might dispense with watching while amongst them, as they made it a point of honour never to outrage hospitality by theft or outrage. They are a fine race of amiable men, good-looking, and of tall stature; but their women are not nearly equal to the Sioux; yet there are, notwithstanding, more white trappers and half-castes married amongst them than any other tribe FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 139 in North America: probably owing to their peaceable habits and mild disposition. They have abimdance of fine horses, and are good judges of horse-flesh, daring riders, and regu- lar jockeys in driving a bargain. We had several offers of trade in tiie coiu*se of the evening, but confined our business to mocassins, of which they had a good supply, and better made than any we had got. Seeing that our predilection lay that way, all the squaws went to work, and made a stock over night that would sen^e a regiment. A lot of us spent the evening in M. Vasquez's quarters, who gave us minute details of the route to Fort Bridger, for by his advice we took that line to Salt Lake in prefe- rence to the Fort Hall, or northern route. He is a French- man: the pai-tner of Mr. Bridger in the fort, or trading- post, which they established many yeai's since, making a large fortune in bartering their baubles for skins and valu- able furs. And now that they have achieved the object of their enterprise, they have contracted such a liking for life in the wilderness as to banish all desire of enjoying the luxuries their wealth would procure them ; contented and happy in the society of tlieir unlettered neighbours, whose friendship and affections they possess. M. Vasquez met them here by accident, for he came on a speculation with a number of horses, hoping to find good customers in the emigrants, who he foresaw would stand in need of re- cruiting their teams after one thousand miles' travel, and I have no doubt he made a good thing of it. We exchanged three of our most crippled nags, giving boot, which he was iinxious to get in flour and coffee, but these we could not spare. He congi-atulated us on getting through the Crows unscathed, even with our full number, but designated it sheer madness to have attempted it only four strong. The United States government have made him a j)roposition to purchase the fort as a military station, to keep those savages in check, and I should think it wdll result in a bargain, as the Indians here can barely now get enough of skins for covering, much less for barter. Next morning our college w^as an imposing one, for the Snakes packed up and accompanied us with their horses, and dogs drawing their lodge-pole vehicles ; their squaws slung round with papooses, and the men mounted on their chargers, without any encumbrance but their weapons. They appeared quite proud of our company, and gave us 140 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, several proofs of their skill as marksmen and their sm^pass- ing horsemanship. As we went along, a yomig chief, who had been practising with my rifle, succeeded so well that he became quite enamoured of it, offering everything he possessed in exchange. However, I was disinclined to part with it, until tempted by two superb horses that were worth a rack-full of rifles. All Indians prefer the flint to the per- eussion-lock, for they can readily get flint that will answer the one, while the other may be perfectly useless from their inability to procure caps. Our road was almost up-hill all day, but never so very^ steep as to require double teaming, nor so rough as to convey a notion of the Kocky Mountains. We got into the mouth of the pass early in the afternoon, which, as I have already described it, is a wide, smooth slope, with scarcely a rock or stone on its surface. In some of the dips having a northern exposure, there were some faint vestiges of winter that another week would entirely obliterate; but digging to the depth of a few feet in wet spots, we came to a flag of ice as firm as a rock, which I think remains un- thawed from season to season. After getting fairly on the top level of the Pass, the trail is level for better than a mile, when it yields with a gentle inclination to the Pacific springs : the first water that holds a westward course towards the great ocean they are called after. Here, with one accord, we halted, to gaze for the last time on the eastern hills and valleys of the Atlantic slope. I strained my eyes looking abstractedly towards the eastern horizon for the spires and steeples of Sligo, and the familiar faces of my old acquaintances; and as they all appeared on the camera obscura of my imagination, I felt a pleasurable sadness that for the instant wholly absorbed me ; but I was soon brought to " a sense of my situation " by three lusty cheers, given as a sort of adieu to our friends before descending into the valley of the Pacific : an ebullition of kindliness and good feeling which I trust they duly appreciated. We camped close to the springs on good pasture enough, with a few of the elite of the Snakes, the great bulk having gone on with all the camp equipage, diverging at a sharp angle in a northerly course. I gave the young chief a share of my couch, if only for the honour of being able to be- queath the proud boast, and leave it as " an heirloom in my family," that I slept with a royal bedfellow, descended FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 141 from ail ancient line of potentates, who, ruling by the code of nature, never have their dynasty disturbed by innovation or revolution. According to M. Vasquez we were here three hundred and twenty-five miles from Lai'amie, makinpf our entire distance from Independence one thousand and twenty-five miles ; rather a formidable stretch to look back upon as having been compassed without roads or bridges,, over mountains, rivers, and swamps ; and as I reflected on the temper I remember often to have evinced during the rapid change of horses in a fast mail, or the short stop to water a locomotive, I inquired whether I could be the same individual who contentedly plodded beside tlie lazy wheels of a ponderous waggon for a period of sixty days. ' I would not have returned over the same track for any in- ducement; but the thousand miles in advance, like most mysteries or unseen wonders, were endowed with specula- tive chamis conferring cheerful elasticity to tlie resolution,, which made me regard them witli curiosity rather than awe, notwithstanding flie mimy disappointments tlie anti- cipative senses had already experienced. We had a very severe frost in the night, which caused me' to lie close to my august companion, and in the morning everything was locked in icy manacles. The Snakes did not appear to mind it, though our fingers were so numb with the cold we could hardly prepare breakfast. Some of our men, who had been complaining for a day or two, were now fairly knocked under with the mountain fever; not a very dangerous malady, but in its way fully as racking and prostrating as sea-sickness. Two of them were so ill they could not sit on horseback, so we made beds for them in the waggons. Though our trail lay over sandy wastes, dotted with artemesia, it was baked into a firm cake, and being slightly inclining downwards, made the draught light and easy. Our Snake friends, having travelled with us ten or twelve miles, took their leave, dashing off in the direc- tion their companions went the evening before. Soon after, a little more to the westward, we saw, as we thought, the effects of mirage : a parcel of detached elevated buttes, of fanciful configuration, standing in towering grandeur, in tlie centre of a calm lake ; and far away to the south- east, a tall conical bluff, also perfectly isolated, up- raising its mitred head to the clouds. This and the buttes turned out to be real, the lake alone being imagi- 142 ACEOSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. nary; the glazed surface of the waste naturally assuming that semblance. We passed over several deep dry ravmes, through -which the water floods take their course, and could see by their sides, where they were abruptly washed away, that there was no admixture of clay in the barren soil of the moun- tains ; for at the depth of twenty feet it was still fine packed sand. A few antelope were observed scampering amongst the artemesia, but we did not go in pursuit of them, camp- ing at a whey-coloured stream, called Little Sandy: a con- fluent of Green River, which receives the virgin tribute of the Pacific springs. Near this is said to be a trail leading to Fort Hall, called, by trappers, Sublett's Cut-off, the dis- covery being attributed to a mountaineer of that name. The pasture was scant, confined to tufts of bunch grass of a coarse and sapless character. I was somewhat discon- certed at finding a straggling band of musquitoes at this altitude ; but the cold must have taken the venom out of their sting, for we suffered no torment from them beyond the blowing of their tiny horns ; as to the sand-ticks, like many other nuisances, we learned to become indifferent to them, further than dislodging tliem from their strongholds in the mornings. We nooned next day at Big Sandy, a largish river, run- ning between very high and steep sandbanks, fringed in places with willow; it is also a tributary of Green River. Our route to it was an unvarying one of wild sage and sand: a disagreeable substitute for the rich brown heath and flowering heather which clothes our own mountain sides, and adorns them with its delicate bells of most beauteous floral organisation. I never met any heath in my rambles, nor, from inquiries, do I believe it exists on the American continent. M. Vasquez said we would find a good camping stream between Big Sandy and Green River, but we travelled on till near midnight without hap- pening to find it: pulling up, after a long and fatiguing day's journey, on a bald hill side, without water or grass. However, as day broke we saw below us, at a distance of about two miles, a large river, which we knew must be Green River: the head water of the Rio Colorado, or Red River of the West, which pursues its unexplored course through the great basin, emptying into the northern end of the Gulf of California. We were soon in motion to in FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA, 14^ demnify ourselves for a supperless night by a plentiful breakfast. But I must not omit mentioning rather a lu- dicrous incident that occun-ed last night in the dark, when Mr. D — q — e, to quiet the pinchings of Jimiger, tlinist his hand into the jerked-meat sack for a piece of dried beef, and pulled out what appeared to him a good junk. After gnawing and tugging at it for a long time without getting any toothsome i)its, he brought it to the light in my tent to cut into strips better adapted for mastication, when, to his great dismay, he fomid that he had been tearing and chewing one of the old sweaty mocassins I purchased from the filthy Pawnee, that, by some means or other, fomid its way amongst the meat: I strongly suspect by tlie agency of some mischievous wag, who did not think proper to re- veal himself in the face of Mr. D — q — e's foaming ven- geance, which was of a very threatening character, and alarmingly aggravated by the universal laughter that fol- lowed the discovery. It was a standing joke afterwards, and no one ever ventured to taste jerked beef from thence- forward after sunset save by the light of a lamp. CHAPTER XII. The Ferrjing of Green River — The Mode antion — Meet more Mormons — A little Tobacco procures us a great Desideratum — Emerge into Open Air — First View of the Salt Lake Valley — Its Appearance — The City of the [Mormons — Their Hospitality — Dancing Party — Polygamy and Platonism — Fresh Meat in Abundance — Any Price or Anything for Coffee and Sugar — Neatness and Con- venience of Mormon Houses — Promise of an abundant Harvest — Wonders worked in 80 short a Settlement — Gretit Quantity of Stock — Get all Repairs done — Natu- ral Hot Baths — The Temple — The Congregation — Tlie Proceedings— The Sermon — Impressions of Mormon Godliness — Civil Government — Mormon Jealousy — The Population in the Valley — Extreme Heat of it — Swarms with Crickets — T. T. L. Visits — Amiability of the Ladies. I SHALL not soon forget the emotions which possessed me on seeing, so unexpectedly, the faces of strange white men, and they also seemed overcome by feehngs of agreeable astonishment as we hastened towards each other with out- stretched hands, gi-eeting one another hke old acquaint- ances. They were habited in buckskin, suits, and had a weather-beaten look, that showed they were familiar with exposure. It was a long time before we could convince them we came from the States that year; they thought we must have wintered at Laramie, and come on in the spring; but, amongst other means of assurance, an Indej)endence paper, dated April 7th, removed their scepticism, while it augmented their surprise at our having accomplished so long and arduous a journey so early in the season. We gave them all the late news, and, what w^as still more ac- ceptable, a bowl of good coffee, which was then not to be had at Salt Lake ; for which w^e got in return good news as to the wealth of California, and most agreeable intelli- gence touching the abundance of vegetables, butter, cheese, meat, &c. in the settlement. We spent a right jolly night 158 ACEOSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, round the fire of the Idhi, having, in honour of the occa- sion, the first jorum of regular brandy-punch we had tasted since our start. The Mormons were in great spirits, and gave us hues and tokens of introduction to their friends and famiUes in the city, which they said would insure us attention aud hospitality. We were still twelve miles from the mouth of the canon, as they call it; but the road was considerably better than that we had already passed, as the Mormons come thus far for their timber and lime, and for their own convenience made it more travelable. Our reception was the more cordial from our being mostly all foreigners, and not ob- noxious to the prejudice they naturally entertain against Americans, who destroyed their first city, and banished them to this remote location. They expected to have many of their little wants supplied from our waggons, for which they were prepared either to give a liberal trade in any article they possessed, or a high price in gold dust, with which they were all well supplied. After starting next morning we met five ox- waggons and a party of Mormons coming from the city for timber, who were likewise astonished at our expedition, and evinced great anxiety to learn what we carried, as they conceived we came solely on a trading speculation, it was so much out of the direct line to California. We gave them some tobacco, of which they said they were in great need : a civility they reciprocated by giving us an introduction to some relatives of theirs who had just returned from Cali- fornia by the north end of Salt Lake, and would give us all particulars about the mines, and the nature of the new route first discovered by them from Salt Lake Valley to that coun- try, which alone was practicable for waggons. The drive through the remainder of the canon was, as I have said, comparatively easy and smooth, but far from agreeable. Within about a mile of the mouth it opened into a bosom, and then again contracted into a gullet, narrow, steep, and impending, through which we emerged again into the world of clear daylight and fresh air : the Valley of the Great Salt Lake opening out before us as if we came through the portals of a gate. Here again I was doomed to great disappointment; for, instead of a charming valley, beautifully diversified with wood and water, there was a bald, level plain, extending FKOM NEW YOEK TO CALIFORNIA. 159 over to the base of the Utah range on the other side, witli- out bush or bramble to cast a shade from the scorching rays of a flaming sun that blazed with twofold intensity, reflected by the lofty ranges by which the plain is bounded. Some miles to the north lay the Great Salt Lake, glistening in radiance hke a sheet of crystals, in strange contrast with the dark and sombre Utali range tliat stretches along its western shores. At first the city was not visible, but on passing over a piece of table-land, the new capital of the Monnons became revealed : not, I must admit, wiih any veiy striking effect, for it was too young as yet to boast the stately ornaments of spire and dome which first attract tlie eye of the anxious traveller. We saw from here, with great distinctness, the plan of the place, which had nothing novel or peculiar about it; being laid out in veiy^ wide regular streets, radiating from a large space in tlie centre, where tliere appeared tlie basement and tall scaffolding-poles of an immense building in progi*ess of erection. The houses were far apart, each being allotted an area for gai'den and enclosm'e, which caused it to cover a very lai'ge space of ground. We were soon discovered coming down the slope, and as we entered the precincts of tlie town tlie iuhabitiints came to the front of then* houses, but showed no disposition to open ixn acquaintance account, apparently believmg us to be an exclusively American cai'avim. So soon, however, as they were undeceived, they came about us in great num- bers, inquiring what we had to dispose of. They were neatly and well clad, their children tidy, the rosy glow of healtli and robustness mantling on the cheeks of all, while the softer tints of female lovelmess prevailed to a degree that goes far to prove those "Latter-Day Samts" have very cor- rect notions of angelic perfectability. We politely declined several courteous offers of gratuitous lodging, selecting our quarters in a luxuriant meadow at the north end of the city. Before we had our tents well pitched we had loads of presents : butter, milk, small cheeses, eggs, ixxid vege- tables, which we received reluctantly, not having any equi- valent retm-ns to make, except in money, which tliey alto- gether declined; in fact, the only things we had in su- perabundance were preserved apples and peaches, a portion of which we presented to one of the elders, who gave a delightful party in the evening, at which all om- folk were 160 ACROSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, present. We found a very large and joyous throng as- sembled; the house turned inside out to make more room on the occasion, with gaiety, unembarrassed by ceremony, animating the whole ; making me almost fancy I was spend- ing the evening amongst the crowded haunts of the old world, instead of a sequestered valley lying between the Utah and Timj)anago mountains. After tea Avas served — There were the sounds of dancing feet Mingling with tones of music sweet ; or, as Dermot MacFig would say — We shook a loose toe, While he humoured the bow ; keeping it up to a late hour, perfectly enraptured with the Mormon ladies and Moniion hospitality. I was not aware, before, that polygamy was sanctioned by their creed, beyond a species of etherial Platonism which accords to its especial saints chosen partners, called " sj)iritual wives;" but I now found that these, contrary to one's ordinary notions of spiritualism, give birth to che- rubs and unfledged angels. When our party arrived we were introduced to a staid, matronly- looking lacly as Mrs. ; and as we proceeded up the room, to a bloom- ing young creature, a fitting mother for a celestial progeny, as the other Mrs. , without any worldly or spiritual distinction whatsoever. At first, I thought it a miscon- ception, but inquiry confirmed the fact of there being two mistresses in the same establishment, both with terrestrial habits and duties to perform, which I found afterwards to be the case in other instances, where the parties could lay no claim to any particular saintliness. On Saturday morning we had a very early levee at our tents, with fresh milk, butter, fowls, and eggs, and a light waggon in attendance, with a side of beef, a carcase of mut- ton and one of veal, all of superior quality; the latter ar- ticles for sale commercially, but certainly on most mode- rate terms, the prime joints not averaging over one penny per pound. The other matters we were forced to accept, and gave to the donors what we could afford of coffee, sugar, and tobacco, which were not to be had in the city for the last two months. In addition to those timely presents, we got all our washing done in the very best style of art. After breakfast we went out returning visits, FKOM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 161 and were most graciously received in every quarter. The houses are small, principally of brick, built up only as temporary abodes, until the more urgent and important matters of enclosure and cultivation are attended to ; but I never saw anything to surpass the ingenuity of arrange- ment with which they are litted up, and the scrupulous cleanliness with which they are kept. There were trades- men and artizans of all descriptions, but no regular stores, or workshops, except forges. Still, from the tireing of a waggon to the mending of a watch, there was no difficulty experienced in getting it done as cheaply and as well put out of hand as in any other city in America. Notwithstanding the oppressive temperature, they were all hard at work at their trades, and abroad in the fields weeding, moulding, and irrigating; and it certainly speaks volumes for tlieir energy and industry to see the quantity of land they have fenced in, and the breadth under cultivation, considering the very short time since they have founded the settlement in 1847. There was ample promise of an abundant hai-- vest, in magnificent crops of wheat, maize, potatoes, and every description of garden vegetable, all of which require irrigation, as there is little or no rain in this region; a Salt Lake shower being estimated at a drop to each inha- bitant. They have numerous herds of the finest cattle, droves of excellent sheep, with horses and mules enough and to spare, but very few pigs; persons having them being obliged to keep them chained, as the fences are not close enough to prevent their damaging the crops. How- ever, they have legions of superior poultiy, so that they live in the most plentiful manner possible. We exchanged and purchased some mules and horses on veiy favourable terms, knowing we would stand in need of strong teams in cross- ing the Sierra Nevada. On Sunday morning early we went to the hot springs, a mile beyond the town, where the authorities were erecting a handsome and commodious building, and had a glorious bath, in sulphur w^ater, at a temperature just as high as could be comfortably endured ; drinking, too, of the stream as it gushed from the hill-side in a thick volume, being told it possessed certain medicinal properties of which we all stood in need. The Mormons make a boast of their good health, and attribute it to bathing in those springs: many that I met declaring they came to the valley perfect crip- 162 ACPiOSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, pies, and were restored to their health and agility by fre- quenting them. After bathing, we dressed in our best attire, and prepared to attend the Mormon service, held for the present in the large space adjoining the intended temple, which is only just above the foundations, but will be a structure of stupen- dous proportions, and if finished according to the plan, of surpassing elegance. I went early, and found a rostrum, in front of which there were rows of stools and chairs for the townsfolk; those from the countiy, who arrived in great numbers in light waggons, sitting on chairs, took up their stations in their vehicles in the background, after unhar- nessing their horses. There was a very large and most respectable congregation; the ladies were attired in rich and becoming costume, each with a parasols ; and I hoj)e I may say, without any imputation of profanity, a more be- witching assemblage of the sex it has rarely been my lot to look upon. Before the religious ceremony commenced, &\e men mounted, the rostrum, who were, as I learned, the weekly committee of inspection. The chairman read his general report of the prospects and proceedings of the co- lony, and then read a list of those deserving of particular commendation for their superior husbandry, the extent of their fencing, and other imj)rovements, which was followed by the Ijlack list, enumerating the idle, slothful, and unim- proving portion of the community, who were held up to reprobation, and threatened, in default of certain tasks allotted them being finished at the next visit, to be de- prived of their lots, and expelled the community. The reading of these lists produced an evident sensation, and, I am satisfied, stimulates the industrious to extra exer- tion, and goads the lazy to work in self-defence. This over, another, "the gentleman in black," got up, and without any form of service or prefatory prayer, read aloud a text from the Book of Mormon, and commenced a sermon, or discourse, ''de multis rebus et qidbusdam aliis f taking a fling at the various other religions, showing them up by in- vidious comparison with the creed of the valley. He then pointed out the way to arrive at Mormon sanctity, in which there was nothing objectionable as laid down, and exhorted the congregation, not only as they valued their salvation, but their crops, so to demean themselves, and endeavour to propitiate the favour and indulgence of the Supreme FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 163 Being; calling to mind that, in the year of righteousness (last year), he sent sea-gulls, a hird never kno^vn to visit the valley, to devour the crickets, which would otherwise, from their numbers, have annihilated all vegetation.* He then adverted to the barbarous treatment tliey received at the hands of tlie Americans, forgettmg to avow his chari- table forgiveness ; and expressed a belief that their avai'ice would yet induce them to covet their possessions at Salt Lake ; but he entertained a hope that the Monnons by that time would be strong enough to guai'd and maintain their rights and independence. He talked of the gold of Cali- fornia, which he said was discovered by Mormon energy; but they freely abandoned it to American cupidity, as they (the Mormons) did not desire such worldly aggrandisement. Witli this ended the entire ceremony; and then began a simultaneous series of greetings and salutations amongst town and country folk, which led to luncheons, and dinners, and all manner of civilities, and tender tete-a-tetes, until evening, when anotlier sermon was delivei'ed, which ended the religious duties of tlie day. I can't say I was much impressed with the sanctity or sincerity of the preachers; nor did it appear to me, from tlie deportment of the con- gregation, that any very devotional feeling pervaded them ; for, with all their affected contempt for worldly wealth and pleasure, they appear to me to pm^sue the one with as ac- tive a zeal, and enjoy the other with as little restraint, as any other sect of professing religionists I have ever become acquainted witli. The affairs of church and state here go strictly hand-in-hand; the elders of the church being the magistrates and functionaries in all civil and criminal mat- ters, the framers of the law, and chancellors of the ex- chequer, with whom it is expected that every member of the community will lodge whatever wealth he may acquire beyond his immediate wants, taking treasury notes of ac- knowledgment. This the law strictly requires, on pain of expulsion and forfeiture ; but I have heard several griunble at it; and I understand it has led to numerous secessions, if not from the Mormon faith, at least from the Mormon * It is surprising that the IMormons, who are, as a class, a most astute and reasonina^ people, can be gulled and gammoned after this fashion ; for sea-i;iills are met all across the plains, and were seen in the valley the first time Colonel Fremont visited it, in 1845, two years before the Mormons thought of settling there. ^ 164 ACEOSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, valley, to get beyond Mormon authority. A Scotchman, fresh from the old country, who with his sister lately joined the sect, complained to me of the grievance, stating that on his arrival he lodged a considerable sum with the treasurer, part of which he lately required to try his fortune in California, but was peremptorily refused, with a rebuke for his lust of gain. " He didna see whar' this wad lead to, or how it wad end;" but notwithstanding his strong dialect, I question if he is clean-bred Scotch, after so simple an act as he avowed himself guilty of There were no wTitten laws amongst them; but tres^ pas&es, outrages, and such matters, are taken cognizance of by the elders, and adjudicated on summarily, according to conscience; tines and j^ublic flogging being the punish- ments most in vogue. The authorities have a mint, from which they issue gold coin only: it is plain, but massive, without any alloy. I only saw two issues, five and ten dollar pieces, with the amount on one side and the date of issue on the other, without any emblem or device whatso- ever. I got every information I believe they possessed relative to the new route to California; but, to make assu- rance doubly sure, I was anxious to procure a guide who had travelled over the line, and engaged a man, with the consent and approval of my party. However, when it came to the ears of the rulers, they forbade his leaving; for •I believe they are apprehensive that the golden induce- ments of that rich country might empty the valley of its ^population if they came to be particularly disseminated : a •reason, too, why they deprecate the travelling of emigi-ants by their city, which they say (and, I believe, with truth) is -two hundred miles of a round. There are, as far as I could learn or judge, about 1^\e ^thousand inhabitants in the tow^i, and seven thousand ^lore in the settlements, which extend forty miles each way: north to the Weber, and south towards Utah Lake. The valley, at its gi'eatest width, is not over fifteen miles, and I think seven would be a fair average : its soil is a rich black loam, and is irrigated by innumerable springs of good water, and streamlets flowing from the snowy mountains, besides the Jordan, Avhich flows through its centre from Utah to Salt Lake ; but it has a naked, bleak look, for want of timber, which renders the efl'ects of the sun next thing to intolerable. The city is situated on the south-east end FROM NEW YOfK TO CALIFORNIA. 165 of the lake, about nine miles from its shores ; but I think a much more eligible site might liave been chosen, where the land would have been equally fertile, the climate fully as salubrious, and timber, which they exclusively bum, much more convenient, for at present they have to bring it from twelve to fifteen miles over a bad road. The whole neighbourhood swarms with crickets of an enormous size, having a body as large as a mouse, and extraordinarily long legs, which enable them to leap mconceivable distances. They do not, however, relish jumping over water; so that, by making a small cut round the tillage fields, and letting water into it, those destructive insects are prevented mar- ring industiy: a precaution that leaves the husbandman independent of the sea-gulls. The evening of Sunday was glorious, after the broad red disc of the sun sunk behind the Utah range. A gentle breeze, wafted ofl* the sparkling surface of the Great Salt Lake, came down the valley with a deliciously refreshing effect, inviting abroad the inhabitants, who promenaded about our camp, and came into our tents to pay their fare- well visits, as we intended starting in the morning. There was a large proportion of ladies amongst them, who ap- peared to reciprocate the admiration conceived for them by several members of our company; remaining till an advanced hour, reiterating their last fond words, the golden treasures of California being forgotten for the time in the lures of "metal more attractive;" and it even looked as if the charms of ]\Iormonism, through the spells of its female votaries, were about to thin our ranks: bearing out the dramatist's remark, that, not as other emotions which re- quire time to germinate and mature, *' love, like a mush- room, springs up in a night." 166 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, CHAPTEE XIY. Eifects of the Tender Passion— Early Start— Boiling Springs— The Great Salt Lake — Its Appearance — Analysis of its Waters — Its Peculiarities — Comfort of the Mormon Agriculturists — The Cricket Nuisance — More Wives Spiritual and Tem- poral—Change our System of Travel— The Weber — Obliged to Ferry over our Loads— Mr. Goodyear's Farm— Thick Jungle— The Ogden — Fine View— Heat of the Sun — Water before Gold — Fierce Insects — Signal Fires — Bear River — Sur- prised to find Men in the Act of Launching a Boat— Musquitoes — Lose a Horse and Mule in the Ferry — Our Camjvground — Take a more Westerly Course — Scarcity of Fresh Water — Salt Streams, Hot and Cold, side by side — Send out Scouts to look for Water— Their Protracted Absence— Our SuflFerings— Come to Water at last — Shoot an Indian — Lamentable Necessity for such Rigour — Last View of the Great Salt Lake— The Broad-axe Guard— Desolation and Solitude. Though early astir next morning, tliere Avere those in the city whose wakeful eyelids anticipated the sun; and lest there should be a repetition of the melodramatic perfor- mances of yesterday evening, I got the waggons into motion at once, and moved off from the isolated metropolis of the Latter-Day Saints, deeply impressed with gratitude for their kindness and hospitality, with admiration for their energy and industry, but with no veiy elevated respect for their creed or the ethical discipline of their social institu- tions. Our road passed along by the hot springs, where we had a regimental lavabo, performed in double-quick time. About four miles beyond these there are boiling sj)rings with the same mineral properties, but at a temperature that would answer for culinary purposes : a fact tested by one of our men, that he might be able to indulge in the boast hereafter, by putting in two eggs, which were cooked to a nicety in the usual time, three minutes by the sand- glass. There is a small river flowing from them, over which there is a bridge ; for though it is shallow enough to drive through with ease, it would scald the animals if they went into it. Some of the loose ones that ran precipi- tately in turned quickly back, rushing with frightened FROM yEW YORK TO CALIFOBNJA. 167 haste over the bridge, lest it should fall and let them into it again. Here, with some others, I turned down to visit the lake, but could not well get as far as its w^aters, from the com- bined inciTistations of muriate and carbonate of soda that covered the flat shores for a gi^eat distance from the edge, through wiiich the horses sunk nearly knee-deep, and could not be induced to proceed. As the wind came off the lake it carried with it a mineral stench arising from the stag- nant water close along the brink, which was offensive to the utmost degree; and although tlie breeze was a brisk one, it scarcely ruffled tlie surface of the sluggish lake; the water, from its great specific gravity, being difficult to distm-b; for, carrying in solution its full complement of salt, it requh'es a stonn to set it in anything like commo- tion. Colonel Fremont, who analysed it, gives the follow- ing description and result: — *' The Great Salt Lake has a veiy irregular outline, greatly extended at times of melting snows. It is about seventy miles in lengtii, ranging nearly north and south, in conformity to the range of mountains, and is remarkable for its predominance of salt. The whole lake waters seem thoroughly satiurated with it, and every evaporation of water leaves salt behind. The rocky shores of the islands are whitened with spray, which leaves salt on everything it touches ; and a covering like ice forms over the water, which the waves throw among the rocks. The shores of the lake in the diy season, wlien the waters recede, and especially on the south side, ai'e whitened with in- crustations of fine white salt; the shallow arms of the lake, at the same time, under a slight covering of shi- ning water, present beds of salt for miles, resembling softened ice, into which horses' feet sink above the fet- locks. Plants and bushes, blown by the wind upon those fields, are entirely inci*usted with ciystallized salt more than an inch in thickness ; upon this lake of salt the fresh water received, though great in quantity, has no perceptible effect. No fish nor animal life of any kind is to be found in it; the larvse on the shore being found to belong to winged insects. A geological examination of the bed and shores of this lake would be of the highest interest. Five gallons of water taken from it, in the month of September, and roughly evaporated, gave fourteen pints of salt; a part 168 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, of which being subjected to analysis, gave the following proportions : — Chloride of sodium (common salt) 97 '80 parts. Chloride of calcium 0*61 Chloride of magnesium 024 Sulphate of soda 0-23 .. Sulphate of lime 1-12 .. 100-00" .. It has not been ever regularly explored or surveyed, and is variously stated to be from seventy to one hundred miles in length; but as far as I could judge, by the time it took me to round its northern extremity, I should be inclined to set it down at eighty, without a tree or shrub to adorn its bleak shores for the entire length. There are several fertile islands on it, and one very large one, on which the Mormons told me they had as many as seven thousand head of oxen. Bear Eiver and the Weber, which previously receives the waters of the Ogden, empty themselves into it; and although both at that point are large rivers, they produce scarcely any freshening effects, save at the point of embouchure. The range of mountains to the eastward of the valley inclined to eastward as we proceeded up it; the land to their base being of the most fertile character, settled by Mormons, who have fine herds, extensive tillage tracts, and comfortable homesteads. I called at many of them, and found them neat and commodious, well but plainly fur- nished, and the inhabitants civil, communicative, and obliging. The crickets are a serious nuisance, for the ground is alive with them ; and they are not only destruc- tive where they have their way, but the effluvium they emit is about as disgusting a sample of scent as any to be met with. Though they bun^ow in the earth, they spend almost all their time on the surface, and delight in climbing up tall grass and weeds, uttering a grinding chirp that sets one's teeth on edge. They constitute the principal food of the Utah Indian, who eats them raw and roasted, and also make a sort of paste or jam, by broiling them to a cinder, then pounding them veiy fine, and mixing them with a wild fruit called senice berries. A good many of the young Indians are domesticated as herds amongst the Mormons; but the wild ones are kept at arm's length, for FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 169 they are great tliieves, and not otherwise to be depended on. When the settlement was first founded they were ex- cessively troublesome and dangerous, but the Monnons gave them a few gi'ave lessons that improved their behaviour very much. Our camp this evening was eighteen miles from tlie city, on the gi'ounds of a man whom I recognised as a visitor when encamped there. He was particularly atten- tive, placing eveiy thing on his premises at our disposal. He had a snug and well-fumished cottage, and seemed to« enjoy the gi-eatest domestic beatitude in the society of his wives, spiritual and temporal; never, as he told me, coming in for any squalls, as the ladies expended all their foul words on each other. He had most thriving crops, which he and all the settlers up the valley manage to irrigate, with- out any trouble, by leading little ducts into their lands from the numerous rivulets that issue from the mountains. They enjoy the advantage of having fine timber close at hand, and the bushes scattered about suffice as a shade for the cattle. The heat of the weather now became so intense, I was. forced to alter tlie routine of our daily movements by breakfasting before the dawn, stai'ting at the first light, and nooning from eleven till two o'clock, when tliose who felt so disposed might take a nap, allowing the animals to lie by during the noonday glai'e, and travelling again till an advanced hour in the evening, by which we made as long' distances with infinitely less distress to both men and mules. Next morning we commenced our new system, though some, who eagerly acquiesced in it the evening before, tmiied out with a reluctant growl at the early summons. The- countiy, in the early part of the day, was elevated and sandy, with a stock of crickets that made the animals stare with bewilderment, as if they were afraid to go amongst them. We happened to light on a very inviting spot at the nooning hom^; and notwithstanding our abhoiTence of the crickets, were all very soon, with the exception of the day-guard, stretched in imconscious slumbers amongst them. In our evening's drive the countiy again resumed- its fertile aspect, and was enlivened by the habitations of the scattered settlers. Our trail then took a decided bend towards the mountain, in the direction of a belt of timber, which we conjectured skirted the Weber, which river we 170 ACKOSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, reached in good time, but were taken aback by seeing, from the lofty overhanging bank, that it was both deep and rapid. There was, however, in one place, a low gravelly island that we were enabled to get to without much trouble, and from thence to the other bank it was narrov/ enough to admit of having a permanent rope passed over and made fast at both sides, by which means we pulled across in a direct line, nearly without the delay or trouble of paddling. My waggon was again dismomited, and we were not more than two hours getting everything over except the other waggons, which, when empty, we hauled across with ropes. It was near eleven o'clock when we sat down to supper, as fagged a lot of gentlemen as there could well be. We formed our camp at the end of a large marsh, close to the residence of Mr. Goodyear : a wealthy Mormon, who has an extensive breedmg station there for stock of every description, amongst which he had the largest flock of goats I ever saw. His house, offices, stables, &c. formed a large square of handsome and substantial log buildings, - and had every requisite and convenience for such an esta- blishment, which is the last in the line of the northern settlement. He was preparing to drive a large caballada of horses and mules to tlie Californian market, with which he intended travelling in ten or twelve days. Could he have started at an earlier joeriod I would have been dis- posed to await his company, but we expected by that time to be at the source of Humboldt Eiver. We got a fresh supply of cheese and butter here, and a good carcase of mutton for every two w^aggons; but I rather suspect, when Mr. Goodyear arose the next mommg, he was surprised to find we had akeady started. Though early at work we did not advance much for some hours; the ground over which the trail lay being soft and swamj)y, with banks of thick jungle that had never before been pe- netrated, through which we had to force a passage. About eight miles from Mr. Goodyear's we crossed the Ogden : a nice clear stream, which takes its name from the supposed murder of a celebrated trapper, who was said to have been murdered by the Indians, and thro^vn into a hole in the mountain where it has its source. The trail now turned eastward, as if we had to cross the mountains : a supposi- tion we the more readily entertained, as there appeared to be a canon directly in front of us ; but as we got up a pretty FBOM NEW YORK TO C.UJFORXIA. 171 elevated slope, it turned again to the north-west; the cause of the sharp turn heing, as we could now see, a tule marsh, that would not admit of crossing. There was a splendid view here of the Great Salt Lake, and of tlie plain, hack towards the city, and away to the north-west in the course we were to follow. There was nothing pictm^esque in the plain itself: hut the lofty moun- tains, with tlieir hoary glistening peaks, piercing the soft blue azure vault of the heavens; the canopy of which, un- obscured by sj)eck, or cloud, or lilm, had a soul-elevating effect on us poor pigmies, who crept along the mighty base of the hills, like ants beneath the side-wall of a stately edi- fice. The sun, so early as ten o'clock, was so feaifully hot that I could not bear my lumd upon tlie lifle that was slung from the peak of the saddle ; and soon after it became so intense that two men were suddenly taken ill, and liad to be placed in the waggons : suflfering, I STippose, from what ai-e called the effects of a sun-stroke. This was by far the most sultiy day we had yet experienced ; and it happened, unfortunately, that at the nooning hour we were miles re- mote from shade or water, sti-uggling on in a gasping state for nearly two hours, until we came to a river made up of moimtain torrents that descended directly fi-om tlie snow}' ridges, presemng its cooling properties in a deep grove of oak and sycamore. Oh ! it was a glad sight to see ; more welcome at the moment by a million degrees than the richest mine in California. Tlie eager mules could scarcely be restrained from drawing the waggons into it, and those that had their freedom drove down their heads as far as the eyes in the limpid cuiTent in tlieir anxiety to swallow it. I admonished my companions as to the bad effects of drinking too freely at first ; but they were deaf to advice, insensible to eveiy fear or feeling but that of parching thirst; drinking as long as the restrained breath would permit, and drinking again and again till tliey could hold no more. I was somewhat more peremptory with the sick men, to whom I doled it out in small quantities, and with a happy effect. In the morning we expected to make Bear River at the crossing point; but the fatigues of yesterday evening, and the prostrating lassitude brought on by the morning's exposure, induced us to stop where we were. There was here a genus of gigantic fly, which attacked the horses with a degree of ferocity that 1 did not conceive 172 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, could belong to the insect race. It darted at them with a humming whizz, perforating the skin the moment it came in contact with it, as if its lance was inserted by the impetus, in some places letting out a perfect jet of blood. The poor brutes were driven off the feed in amongst the scrub, and some of them, in their pain and terror, ran furiously back along the trail, giving us a long walk to recover them, which we would have gladly avoided if possible; but as the cool air of the evening set in, those insect-monsters disappeared, and in their stead came the infernal musquito, " to make night horri- ble." We had, to be sure, discovered a sort of remedy against their attacks, but it was one that, like nauseous medicine, was resorted to with reluctance, and in this in- stance was peculiarly irksome; for, having expended all the antelope grease, we were forced to have recourse to our nice Mormon butter, s^jreading it over our warm faces instead of our hot rolls, which, fresh though it undoubtedly was, created, when reeking in combination with the animal exlialations within the tents, an oleaginous atmosj)here that was not at all savoury, and thick enough to be cut with a blunt knife. The watch throughout the night saw several fires at high elevations on tlie shelves of the mountains along which we were travelling, and also on the Utah range oj^posite, which we knew proceeded from Indians, and looked like signal- fires betokening a gathering ; but having heard nothing veiy unfavourable of the Utah tribe from the Mormons, I felt disposed to place them to the account of ordinary cam2:)ing fires. Not so, however. The majority of the company in- sisted they were regular signal-tokens answered all around, that showed preparations were making in concert to inter- cept and attack us. In consequence of my mistake about the Crows I did not combat the opinion, but took such steps as if the danger really impended, more particularly as it did not impede us an iota. We still continued our course along the base of the mountains, but got into a flat broken country, cut up with sloughs and half-dry channels, caused by the inundations of the season, most of which were soft and sludgy, and rendered our path so tortuous, that for two hours we had not advanced over a mile. When we did get on higher ground we could see the line indi- cating the course of Bear Eiver, which we reached by noon; FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 173 and on arriving at the edge of the high hanks which look down upon the tide marshes that run along it, were "Asto- nished at seeing below a waggon with four yokes of oxen, and some white men in the act of returning from the other side in a boat. At first it puzzled us to think who they were, or where they could be from ; but as I rode down to make inquixies I had a most familiar salutation from one of them, who said, " I did not expect you before to-morrow evening." I now saw they were from Salt Lake city, about to establish a ferr}% in expectation that other sections of the emigration w^ould follow our track ; but their boat was a ver\' small and frail one for that puii)ose. " How on earth will you be able to live here during the summer months?" I obsened, seeing them tearing the musquitoes from their cheeks with both hands. " Well," said the cap- tain of the party, *' they are purtii damn bad here I admit, but when you get over yonder they'll give you particular h — ^11." Poor comfort, thought I, as they arose in shoals from the rushes, literally blinding us. I had not before seen them appear in sucli formidable force of a morning, and I would gladly have submitted to a round of fifty miles rather than undergo the infliction we were doomed to en- dure, while employed in the tedious task of transporting our waggons and luggage, if there had been any assurance we would thereby escape. We, however, went at it with that " do or die" determination with which fellows mount the ladders of a forlorn liope, and as at the Weber we got a fixed line across, though it was double the breadth; but as the Mormon wherry was small, I had again to dismount my waggon to expedite the operation. The river was two hundred and fifty yards wide at the crossing, and both deep and swift; so much so that in hauling on the rope it re- quired gi^eat caution and management, lest the surging current should roll over and swamp us. We had the misfortune of losing a horse and a mule, by drowning in the current, which delayed us three mortal hours before all Avas over; and I would venture to affirm, that if the Great Bear himself, from whom the river derives its patronymic, had been of our party, he would by that time have been scratching a sore head. For my part, I would run the risk of another bridge of Lodi, and face the thunders of artil- lery, sooner than again force the passage of Bear River be- fore tliose infernal flving Cossacks. It turned out, too. iT4 ACEOSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. precisely as the Mormons said : for they were eA'eii worse when we got over; giving us, while reloading and hitching up for a fresh start, an inkling of a certain tropical place of fashionable resort. We met, at about five miles from the river, a narrow, deep stream, where we fixed our quarters, and were con- soled for the want of food by the absence of our enemy, there being no reedy margin for them to breed in. In the morning w^e fancied w^e had nothing to do but cross straight over: a very illusory idea, as it turned out to be seven feet deep ; nor could we find a practicable spot, insignificant as it appeared, until after a detour of four miles. We here took a more westerly course, receding from the mountains, and entering a country of gloomy grandeur, that looked as if its bleak solitudes had never before been invaded by man. We continued rising over hills and sinking into hol- lows, like a small fleet riding over the swells of the bound- less ocean, without any landmark in the horizon ; crossing numerous river-beds, the streams of which had been drunk up by the insatiable sun ; and when at length, in the even- ing, after a long and weary day's journey, without our accustomed noon-day rest, we came to water, it Avas so brackish it only served to aggravate thirst. There were two streams within a few yards of each other, running parallel : one of which w^as nearly at a boiling temperature, while the other was merely softened from the effects of the sun, though, strange to say, they both issued from the same hill-side. In the latter we all bathed, and derived some relief; but the animals were so overcome with thirst they would not feed, and seemed greatly inclined to w^an- der, keeping us in a state of fret and fidget all night. We rather foolishly tried to make coffee, thinking it would dis- guise the saltish taste, though w^e should have known that evaporation in boiling would have made it all the stronger and more concentrated ; but people when suffering not un- frequently seek a temporary relief in a remedy which they know is sure to increase and prolong their misery. We all drank freely of this unpalatable beverage, and all, without an exception, suffered sadly throughout the night in conse- quence. Shortly after midnight, there being tolerably good light, we set forward, hoping to find fresh water for breakfast. The trail was easy, but at daylight we were no better off illGM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA, 175 than at our start. The men got very much disheartened, and I, also, felt uneasy and distressed, and sent out every horseman in quest of the simple but indispensable neces- saiy, determined, no matter how remote from our route it might be discovered, to go to it. Eight o'clock came, and no horseman returned; ten o'clock came, yet none was in view, and even the burning meridian arrived without a prospect of relief My eyeballs got sore fi'om sti'ainiug, for I never before watched with such nervous anxiety : they were moments of fearful suspense. At length a gleam of hope arose as I saw two horsemen on the western heights. They must, I thought, surely have found water; but then their slow, dejected gait did not portend glad tidings. I raised my hat, and hailed them aloud. They saw and heard me, yet they neitlier made a motion nor quickened their pace. The truth was sadly apparent: it was now approach- ing the limits of endurance. The teamsters sank listlessly in tlieir saddles, whilst the fierce sun almost crackled in in- tensity, producing a reehng sensation and a dimness of vision, as if dissolution were impending; when, like a noise in a dream, I tliought I heard the sound of horses a}>- proaching at speed: and making an effort to resume my consciousness, saw Mr. H ^y at hand to announce our merciful deliverance. He told us the water was yet four miles off; but the knowledge that it was certainly there, and the slight relief we got from his canteen, revived and strengthened us. It was past three o'clock when the waggons got up: rather a fashionable hour for breakfast; and altliough the water was cool and clear, it was not wholly free from a saline flavour; but from the fatigues and privations of the morning, and those of the previous night, it was aiTanged not to go any farther for tlie day. About a mile below the camp, where the stream meandered through a level patch of land, we found excellent feed; a little incon- venient, it is true, for the guard, but the grass was too tempting to let that consideration weigh. Shortly after our meal was over we were waited upon by ten visitors of the Utah tribe, dressed in buckskin suits, and well mounted. They had only a few slvins for barter, and some of that compound I described before, made of powdered crickets and service berries, in small cakes baked in the sun. There were a couple of the horses I would have dealt for, but 176 ACEOSS THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS, tliey were not disposed to part with them at all. One of them sj)oke and understood a little English, from the fre- quency of his visits to the Mormon city, and from him I sought some information as to the route to Humholdt Kiver, of which he Avas entirely ignorant, as he said, "Him lib here;" pointing away to the south-west. As our animals were at such a distance from the camp, and those gentlemen in the neighbourhood, it occurred to me it would be a prudent arrangement to strengthen our guard; so at the next change I got my own tent carried down, adding two men to each watch till morning. Towards the termination of the first one the report of two shots announced that there were strangers about ; and on going out I saw, in the moonlight, the men gathered round an •object that proved to be one of our afternoon visitors, who, with others, in attempting to steal a horse, received a Tifle-ball in the knee-joint, which shattered and dislocated it in a shocking manner, the wound bleeding profusely. I made an effort to stop it, by applying a silk handkerchief as a tourniquet ; but it produced little or no effect, though we twisted it with all our might with an iron ramrod : the poor Utah bearing it without a move or moan. I then sent up to the camp for some brandy, which I gave him diluted with water ; but he sunk rapidly, and in an hour afterwards yielded up the ghost without a murmur. We all took a great interest in him, seeing him bear his misfortune so heroically. There was not one amongst us who would not have gladly given up the horse to ensure his recovery ; but it is absolutely necessary to guard your animals with the greatest rigour, else you will in the end be deprived of the means of prosecuting your journey, and left to j)erish miserably in the wilderness. Next morning we launched out once more upon a desert of sage and sand, through which we travelled all the day: the bushes being so close and strong in many places as to call our axes into requisition. It was very severe work on the mules, for their legs and bellies got scratched and torn by the stumps, which also arrested the wheels every mo- ment. About five o'clock in the evening a sheet of water appeared to the south that was at first mistaken for mirage, but I found it by the glass to be the northernmost extre- mity of the Great Salt Lake, now seen for the last time. We were well off for water all day, and camped in a flat, FEOM NEW YOKK TO CALIFORNIA. 177 where we got a drink of the pui-est distillation. Here, together with bunch grass, there was a shrub like the savine ])lant mixed up with the artemesia, on Avliich the horses browsed freely, which I afterwards learned is called grease- wood. I kept the guai-d at its additional strengtli to-night, lest the Utahs should come to avenge the death of their fallen comrade, but the stillness of night did not suffer tlie slightest interruption. The next day the scene of di-eary desolation was broken by a chain of hills running in detached and iiTCgular lines from north-east to south-west ; which were well timbered with cedar, aspen, and a large bushy shrub, bearing a red berry, the name of which I could not ascertain. We en- deavoured to force our way through a valley that lay directly in the line we wanted to go, and again called out the broad- axe guard; however, after cutting a path for upwards of two miles, we met sage of such prodigious growth, and in such close contact, that we were compelled to desist, and re- trace our steps to where we diverged from the trail, which led us in an oblique line up tlie side of the hills, crossing a gi'assy dell, where we halted till noon. In getting round to the otlier side, several short broken ranges of distant mountains came within view: all tending north and south-, in conformity with the system of the gi'eat interior basin. I did not before see so appalling a picture of awful desola- tion and utter solitude as that presented by the barren waste intervening betwLxt the hills on which we were and the mountains to tlie west. It had a scorched and withered aspect that repulsed the eye and sickened the spirit: look- .inglike a territory exclusively created for the reptiles of ani- mated nature, and forbidden to the footsteps of man. Wc descended alongside a small turbid stream, and followed its course till the hour of rest arrived. The surface of the arid plain along our track was encrusted with white saline efflorescence, and yet the water, as far as we could judge^ was wholly free from any impregnation of it. 178 ACROSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, CHAPTER XV. The Digger Indians — Their Appearance, Cliaracter, Habits, and Customs — Their extent of Territory — Their Practices towards Emigrants — Desert Country — The Toil of the Animals — The Fourth of July — Festival in the Wilderness — Occurrences of the Night — Fine Feed — Country again improves — Meet the Fort Hall Trails — Picturesque Scenery — Shoot a Black-tailed Deer — Different Treatment of Venison in those Hills from Ludgate Hill — Our Friend the Indian Digger in fear — Goose Creek — The Wild Excitement — The Blank Disappointment — "All is not gold that glistens" — True Philosophy makes our Disappointment Food for Fun — Further Researches — Volcanic Indications — Narrow Pass — No Gold — Rugged Defile — Waggon Accident — "Necessity the Mother of Invention" — Sage Hens and Digger Indians — Their Flight — Apprehension of having gone Astray — Snow- capped Mountains to cross — Infamous Road — Giddy Precipice — The Humboldt River — Strange Appearance of the Land near its Head Waters — Colonel Fremont's Description of the Humboldt River. We were now entering the confines of the Digger Indian territory : the most degi'aded and debased of all the Indian race; the refuse and dregs of savage society, who receive into brotherhood every outcast from all the other tribes that fly from the vengeance their crimes have earned for them. In natural conformation tlie Digger Indian is very few degrees removed from the ouran-outang ; not much above its stature, having the same compressed physiognomy, a low forehead, with little or no space between the eye-, brows and roots of the hair. He is altogether devoid of resources, possessing little beyond the instinctive cunning of the monkey, without a scintilla of energy to procure either good food or raiment. They exist, as their name denotes, on roots dug from the earth, vermin and crickets ; although, with ordinary exertion, they could kill sufficient deer, antelope, and mountain sheep for sustentation, the skins of which would afford them a i)artial covering; but such is their inherent sloth, that they have been known to die of absolute inanition rather than make an effort to obtain food. The females correspond in looks and habits with those "lords of the creation:" living in holes and dens that cannot be dignified by the title of huts or wigwams, and FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. - 179 drag out a miserable existence in a state of nature, amidst the most loatlisonie and disgusting squalor. Their terri toiy covers a great, but, for the most pai't, barren expanse, extending over the Sierra Nevada into tlie northern extre- mity of Alta California. They are a tenible pest and nuisance to ti-avellers and emigi^ants; for, without aspudng to the chivaliy of robbers, they are content to fire their aiTOws at night amongst the animals, hoping to wound or cripple some, so that they will have to be left behind, when they become their prey. When going into their countiy emigrants should make it a mle never to camp near shrubs or bushes, mider cover of which tliey will be certam to crawl within range of the animals, and perhai^s effect their puq:)Ose without being discovered, as no noise follows the discharge of their aiTOws, some of which may wound a man as well. Himiboldt River and the head of tlie Sacramento are the places where they are most numerous; but they are fast dwindling in nmnbers, for trappers and ti-avellers shoot them down without hesitatioa or remorse wherever tliey meet tliem. Next day the sun was oppressively hot, tmd we toiled through sage and sand without meeting an oasis in. this cheerless region, while the animals were sadly persecuted by a large gnat, which inflicted severe pain by thek stings, judging from the manner in which the poor bi-utes winced. We had plenty of water, which, nimiing without shade through those hot lands, was at a blood heat, and conse quently not veiy agi'eeable to drinlv while sweltering our- selves in the solar Are. Tw o of the men who rode forward in the morning returned at four o'clock, with intelligence that there was good camping- ground and feed about nine miles ahead, where we saw some hills rising from the plain: it was rather fai% but it could not be avoided. I agreed, however, witli myself to make it up to the animals by a later morning's stait than usual. From the natm^e of the road it was sundow^i when we arrived at our quarters, which fully bore out tlie representation given of them. This evening happening to be the 3d of July, the eve of the anniversary of Anierican independence, our few Yankee companions expressed a desire of celebrating its advent, if we Britishers had no objection. On receiving an assurance to that effect, they concocted a bucket of capital punch, and as soon as twelve o'clock came round, those patriotic l80 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, voyageurs hailed the festival with a peppeiy salvo of revolvers and rifles, and then sought to sap our loyalty through the insinuating agency of Avhisky- toddy: our hois- terous hilarity imposing a new and unusual task on the echoes, in the neat and appropriate sentiments, songs, and oratorical displays, wherein we were so desirous of saying complimentary things of each other's country, that it would have required an accurate judgment between John Bull and Jonathan, "barrin','' as Paddy would say, "the trifle of snuflle." But while wetting our whistles, and rounding our periods, the reflection of a light at a distance on the hills directed our attention, and some of the lads being "a wee bit sprung," insisted on going off to ascertain the cause. They were not over a half hour gone, when we heard a great shout — not of fear, but of fun — and could distinctly see the forms of our friends standing on a rock, in the glare of the fire that burned below. It seems they came unawares on a small encampment of Diggers, stretched round a large sage-bush fire, with a few squaws and pa- pooses ; breaking in upon their slumbers with a wild hurra, that make the poor savages jump in terror, and run off, leaving their interesting babies in the hands of the alarmists, who, instead of "slaughtering the innocents," caught up the little dusky beauties in their arms, and performed a set of nurseiy gymnastics that must have astonished their weak nerves, from the great heights to which they tossed them, to the tunes of "Yankee Doodle," and "God save the Queen!" to the great affright, no doubt, of their unhappy parents, who, I suppose, regarded the orgies as a prelimi- nary step to the roasting and devouring of their tender veals. The morning star made its appearance before w^e turned in ; but this I did not so much mind, as it was agreed not to start until the afternoon. Our mules got a regular **blow out," and went to w^ork when called on with a con-' tented acquiescence that showed they appreciated the ar- rangement. The evening's jaunt, still over the regions of sage and sand, brought us to a fine range of green hills, on the side of which w^e saw several antelope, but they were too fleet and watchful for our marksmen. The trail now led into a gi^assy ravine, wooded with gnarled cedar, which was twisted into most fantastic shapes by the rude storms that sweep through this gap in tlie winter seasons, FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 181 where we had a cool, deUcious spring to slake our thu'st at, and not an unneighbourly insect to interrupt our enjoy- ments or repose. On getting through this the next morn- ing, we struck the trail from Fort Hall, which, winding down a defile in a southerly trend, merged into ours just on the verge of a descent into an open valley, two miles in width, that separated us from another chain of hills higher than those we were leaving: the summit lines of which were peaky, and had more of the mountain character. They were also more thicldy wooded, and though not elevated enough to reach the regions of snow, streamed with laugh- ing, bubbling rivulets, that leaped wantonly down their sides from amidst clumps of aspen and cedar, ministering to the rich deep emerald hue of the valley, but at the same time making it so spring}- that our wheels cut into the soil up to the axles, so that we could not get through until we lightened the waggons : dismounting and packing whatever we could on the saddle-horses, and even tlien not without tremendous exertion. As we got into the hills the scener}' became very pictu- resque, and being delightfully wooded and broken into cliffs lovely vistas, which often arrested us to gaze do^vn those sequestered avenues of nature, across which we could see the coy black- tailed deer bounding into tlie break. We shot one of those fine animals in the course of the day, but had not sufficient patience to allow it the probation which Ludgate-hill venison is accorded by tliat veteran deer- stiilker, iSlv. Rich, for we had some of it hissing on the coals in a few hours after. We saw many signs of the Digger inhabitants, but were not favoured witli a sight of any, though from the chai'acter we got of them at Salt Lake, our friend D , who still fondly cherished his horror of the children of the desert, spurred past every close gi'ove as if he thought the trees would fall upon him, making it appear that in those particular places he had a misunderstanding with his horse. It took us about four hours to tread the mazes of those hills, from which we descended into the vale where Goose Creek has its rise, while all around, north, south, east, and west, were a chaotic group of hills and mountains, thrown up in a tumult of confusion, like incidents and personages in the last chapter of a tedious novel. We heard great things of Goose Creek, both at Fort t6^2 ACROSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, Bridge and Salt Lake, and were resolved to search for some of the golden eggs, even though it caused us a delay of a few days. The creek widened as we travelled doAvn it in a southerly course, receiving the offerings of little tributa- ries at ever}^ perch ; the valley, too, opened somewhat, and spread out a carpet for our reception, with clover, rich grasses, and sweet-scented flowers. Not many moments after we stopped I was startled by a loud huzza, soon fol- lowed by a multitude of huzzas down at the river, which soon brought us all to the brink, without being able to get any other explanation of the unusual uproar but a repeti- tion of huzzas and one cheer more for Goose Creek. "What under heaven do you mean?" I at length exclaimed. "Mean?" said he "(huzza!) mean did you say? (huzza!) why, nothing short of the gold itself (one cheer more for Goose Creek); look at it here on the bottom, and give us another cheer for old Goose Creek!" I went forward amidst the uproar, and was well-nigh betrayed into a huzza on looking into the limpid water, seeing the bottom spec- kled with shining yellow particles, the very image of gold. " But all is not gold that glistens," nor was it gold that glistened in the sands of Goose Creek: it being only deceptive mica that called forth the boisterous enthusiasm of my friends. I fancy I see at this moment their elongated jaws when the fact was ascertained; and if I could have taken a daguerreotype of the group, I know it would give the reader the most amusing page in the book; but, though sad the disappointment, it afforded fine food for fun, and kept us joking all the evening, with every now and then an ironical cheer for Goose Creek : almost as trying to the pa- tience of the "ganders" (as they were christened) as the stings of the musquito itself. The mistake, however, did not deter us from making other researches amongst the volcanic debris with which the hill-sides and ravines were strewed, without having our industiy rewarded by a single grain. About a mile from our camp the river canoned at a right angle through a high hill, the sides of which you would think imj)ended much beyond the perpendicular, leaving a side-path of rather a ticklish width to get through. Beyond this pass we got into an oval-shaped plain, which we crossed longitu- dinally together with the creek, and entered another defile more roomy than the last, and volcanic throughout; with FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 183 cliffs thrown up in in^egular strata and covered with scorise and vitreous fragments. During our nooning spell all hands turned to with picks, shovels, and wash-basins, in the various gulches and ravines, and worked with great assi- duity for two hours, without finding a speck, or meeting any of the concomitant symptoms of its existence, which satisfied us it would be a sheer waste of time to remain exi)loring in • Goose Creek. We accordingly hitched up and continued our goumey, still confined in the jaws of the defile, which be- came more and more rugged as we advanced ; the torn-up beds of mountain torrents intersecting our naiTOw path in many places: shaking our waggons so dreadfully that I expected at each jolt to hear an axletree snap, or see awheel shivered. Nor was it long until, in passing over a ledge of shelving rock, one of tlie wheel mules slipped, and falling broadside on the pole, snapped it across where it enters the hounds. Next after brealiing a wheel this was the worst accident that could happen, as tlie fracture occurred at a place that did not admit of splicing; and the taking asunder of tlie hounds to get a new one in, together with tlie fitting of tlie irons, made it a troublesome occurrence: there being no one amongst the party who had mechtuiical gifts or ex- perience. But few men know what they can do till they tiy, and many tliousands and hundreds of thousands have gone unnoticed and in i^overty to tlieir graves whose latent genius would have earned them wealth and distinction, if they had only met with any lucky accident of development. We all set to work, novices as we were ; some to look after a suitable tree, some dismounting tlie irons from the broken pole, and others taking out the hounds. All was ready when tlie men returned with a nice length of white oak, which was soon lined, shaped, and rough fitted, plainly but firmly, with the irons, and fixed in its place in an in- conceivably short space of time, and fitted so truly that the waggon, as it is temied, followed most accm^ately, making us all wonder at our own expertness. We got out of the glen soon after, and continued our course, never anticipating any difficulty about finding a camping-ground; but it was deej) twilight ere we met one, and then a very indifferent one, with bad water and worse gi'ass, amidst groves of the odious artemesia, alive with lizards and sand- ticks. The same character of frightful barrenness marked the 184 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, country through which we passed the following day; neither flower, nor shrub, nor any indication of soil, that would give promise that the energy of man would ever succeed in sup- jDlanting those rank weeds of nature by the smiling pro- ductions of husbandry. As our loose mules were wandering through those bushes, looking for tufts of bunch-grass, they flushed a pack of sage-hens, which, after a short flight, were marked down. We hastily loaded our guns with suitable -shot, and in walking up to spring them again, I saw the bushes before me shaking, as if some good-sized animals were stealing away, which caused me to quicken my pace to a smart double-quick, when I saw the dark back of some- thing going from me. Without more ado, or taking any time to ascertain what it was, I fired, and to my great sur- 'prise, up started a Digger Indian with a howl, and in an instant ;after fifteen or twenty others, all running like furies, and dropping their bows and arrows to facilitate their flight. We shouted as if in pursuit, and fired a few shots over their heads, wiiich made them bound in an extraordinaiy and amusing manner, never slackening their speed until they vanished over the hill-side. They were evidently en- sconced in cover, watching for a favourable opportunity, when we luckily discovered them: tickling their bustles with heavy duck-shot, but losing our other game by the occurrence. Soon after a river appeared to the southward, which we concluded was Goose Creek, but finding it on our left hand, it considerably puzzled us. W^e apj)roached it till noon, and to our still greater surprise, found it running in an easterly course. As it was an affluent of the Humboldt, I began to fear we had overrun the source of that river, which was to be our great guide for three hundred miles; so, while the others were nooning I took one of the idle mules and rode off to a chain of hills about five miles distant, through which it seemed to run. There I had the gratification of finding that, after passing them, it took a southerly bend, and at a distance of a few miles sloped into a north-westerly course, which satisfied me we were still all right, though apparently on the wrong side : a mis- apprehension that was also removed after we again got in motion, by crossing it at the bend where it took its easterly turn. We were all the morning drawing close to a range of FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. IW lofty mountains, composed of black basalt, conforming to the general law of the great basin, and lying north and south: many of their peaks were snow-capped, and smoke issued from several high ledges, whence the Diggers might look down and watch us. Our trail went in a line to the base, and then ascended one of the hips, winding like a white thread till it disappeared round a knuckle at a great elevation. It was by far the roughest track we had yet met with, and was, in great part, made up of the bed of a mountain torrent; so narrow in many places that the waggon-wheels were working upon the edges, and the mules endeavouring to work below in the bottom. Being too much for a single team to master, we only took uj) two waggons at a time, using the teams of the four; and in getting round the projection took all out but the wheel-span, as it required the greatest precaution and precision in driv- ing, there not being six inches to spare from the edge of a precipice fully one thousand feet deep : it was a neiTe-testing spot, and only one teamster was game enough to sit in the saddle, who piloted all in safety over the dangerous place. We had this grinning precipice disagreeably contiguous for more than a mile, till we got to the western side of the range, from whence the valley of the Humboldt lay exposed to view, and contrary to our expectations, was perfectly iden- tical with the barren wastes we had lately been travelling over, except a narrow margin that mns along it like a shelf, marking, I should suppose, the high-water line when the river is augmented by the thaws of the adjacent mountains. Its course was perceptibly marked at a little distance down the valley by dense lines of willows. It was high time for camping when we got down on the plain, which was pitted over for miles like a tan-yard, with oblong holes, some of which were veiy deep, and of a remark- able appearance, looking as if they were formed by art : they were so equally spread and so unifonnly shaped. All were deep and half filled with stagnant water. As the dusk had set in, we did not choose to run any risk in getting to the river, but pitched our tents amongst them, and picked up as many withered willows as sufficed to boil our coffee. I may say we were noAv at the head waters of that remarkable river, though not exactly at its som'ce, w^iich consists of two inconsiderable little streams in the mountains from which we just descended. Colonel Fremont describes it as follows 186 ACEOSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, in his " Geographical Memoir of Upper Cahfornia," written by order of the United States' Senate, as a key to his map, pubhshed in 1848: the first and only correct one of those regions : — " One of the most considerable rivers in the interior of the great basin is that called on the map Humboldt Eiver ; so called as a small mark of respect to the ' Nestor of scientific travellers,' who has done so much to illustrate North American geography, without leaving his name on any of its remarkable features. It is a river long known to hunters, and sometimes sketched on maps under the name of Mary s Biver, but now, for the first time, laid down with any pre- cision. It is a very peculiar stream, and has many of the characteristics of an Asiatic river — the Indus, for example, though twice as long — rising in the mountains, and losing itself in a lake of its own, after a long and solitaiy course. It rises in two streams in the mountains west of the Great Salt Lake, which unite after some fifty miles, and bear westerly along the northern side of the great basin towards the great Sierra Nevada, which it is destined never to reach, much less to pass. The mountains in which it rises are handsome in their outline, capped with snow the greater part of the year, clothed in places with grass and wood, and abundant in water. The stream is a narrow line, with few affluents, losing by absorption and evapo- ration as it flows ; and terminating in a marshy lake, with low shores, fringed with bulrushes, and whitened with saline inciTistations. It has a moderate current, from two to six feet deep in tlie dry seasons, and probably not ford- able anywhere below the junction of the forks. Dm'ing the time of the melting snows, when both lake and river are considerably enlarged, the country through which it passes, except its immediate valley or border, is a dry sandy j^lain, without wood, grass, or arable soil, from about four thou- sand seven hundred feet at the forks, to four thousand two hundred feet at the lake, above the level of the sea, winding amongst broken ranges of mountains, and vary- ing from a few miles to twenty in breadth. Its own immediate valley along the banks is a rich alluvion, beautifully covered with blue gi^ass, herd grass, clover, and other nutritious gi'asses, and its course is marked through the plain by a line of wdllows and cotton-wood trees — the latter I did not see — semno- for fuel. The Indians in the FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 187 fall set fire to the gi'ass and destroy all trees, except in low ground near the river. The river possesses that which in the progress of events may give it hoth value and fame. It lies on the only line of travel to California, running neai'ly east and west ; it furnishes alevel unobstructed road for nearly three hundred miles, and a continuous supply of the indis- pensable articles of water, wood, and grass. Its head is to- wards the Great Salt Lake, and consequently towards the Moi-mon settlement, whicli must become a point in tlie emigration to California and Lower Columbia. Its termi- nation is within fifty miles of the Sierra Nevada. These properties give to this river a prospective value in ftiture communications with the Pacific Ocean." 188 ACROSS THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS, CHAPTER XYI. Short Cut— Indian Surprise— My Retreat and Wound— The Ternnination of the Chase — Motives of the Attack — The Dust Nuisance — A hungry Digger — His Gas- tronomic Performance— Its Effect— Travelling in the Clouds— Heat of the Ground — Novel Appearance of the Country— Mountain Pass— Night Travelling in the Wilderness — Sublime Scenery — Moonlight — Sunrise — Ophthalmia and Cracked Lips — The Sun, and its reflected Heat — The water gets ill-tasted — Grand Canon — State of the Animals and our Lips — Wild Currants — Dogged by the Indians — ■Give them a Surprise— Amusing Retreat of the Diggers — Good Camping-Ground — Serious Difficulties of the Route — Deep Dust and intense Heat — Proposition — Lighten our Loads — Leave our Goods upon the Desert— Reduce the Burdens to •Seven Hundred-weight, per Waggon — Effects of the hot Sand on our Waggon- nvheels — Green Goggles and Veils in request — More Currants — My Wound be- •comes very angry — Appoint a Deputy — Diverting Indian Water-hunt. Ifi the morning we had two hours' twist hig and turning liefore we got to the hank of the river, though for a day's travel it was scarcely important enough to be dignified by the title of river; but, once there, the path was- tolerably smooth and level. After travelling down it for an hour it xaioproximated, and ran parallel with a high ridge of ground, which stretched away a long distance to the southward, and, turning round its point, ran up on the other side right opposite to that from which we set out. As soon as I ascertained this, by riding up the rise, I called to the waggons to halt until I selected an. easy place to get them over, which would be a saving of ten miles at least, and one accomplished without much difficulty, as all crossed over the hill with perfect ease. Feeling desirous Ithat those emigrants behind should be made aware of the short cut — for even ten miles in so serious a journey is a matter of some moment — I got a bit of thin board, on which I pasted a piece of paper containing the requisite notification, and [having nailed it to a short pole, went back to stick it up where we turned from the trail, taking with me a little spade to sink the hole, and rather imprudently leaving all my arms behind me. While thus engaged, I saw my horse, which I had staked close by, raise his head suddenly with FKOM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 189 his ears pricked forward, and, turning round to ascertain the cause, discovered six mounted Indians coining down upon me full split, urging their horses more and more as soon as they saw I obsei-ved them : evidently betraying by their anxiety and haste some sinister intention. I was, as I said, wholly unarmed, the spade being rather an incumbrance than a weapon ; so I saw my only chance of escape was in flight, and therefore, pulling up the stake in all haste, sprang upon my horse to run for it. Had I open ground I would not have feared the result; but amongst large bushes their horses, from custom, could easily outrun mine. After the first burst I looked round, and saw they were fast gaining upon me; and just as I gained the summit of the rise two arrows whizzed close past me, a tliird taking effect in the thigh, high up near the hip. I was now within view of the waggons, but they were a long way off; nevertheless, putting my finger in my mouth, I gave a shrill whistle, the sound of which it was clear did not reach them ; then, letting go the spade, and taking a good hold of my liorse by the head, I crammed in the spurs, rousing him to his utmost speed, and ven- tured to take anotlier look round on my pursuers, to make a flying calculation of my remaining chances ; but, lo and behold ! pursuers there were none : not an Indian within view, nor any object I could magnify into the semblance of a foe. What could it have been? Was it a day-dream, or a vision, or the illusion of mirage? Yes, thought I, it must certainly have been the effects of that strange, de- ceptive phenomenon, and had become almost reconciled to the conviction, when I felt a prick of pain in my thigh which reminded me of the aiTOw^ that was sticking there: a circumstance that at once put an end to my preternatural speculations; for I never heard it alleged, by the most ima- ginative travellers, that those desert phantoms. Fata Mor- gana, are in the habit of shooting real bona fide arrows : they may terrify the senses, but they never go the length of wounding the body. It was clear, therefore, that it was flesh and blood Indians that chased me, who as soon as tliey ascended the rise, and got a glance of the waggons; hauled off. The arrow had only a shallow hold, and was not very painful ; the only thing that gave me any uneasiness being tlie dread that the barb might have been poisoned. As IW ACEOSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, soon as I came up with the waggons I got one of my companions to take it out; but he brolve off the point in the attempt, which subjected me to much more annoyance than the wound, for he had to make a large slit in the flesh before he could succeed in extracting it. It bled freely, which was a good thing in case of poison; and after wash- ing it thoroughly, first with water and then with spirits, I bandaged it up and let it take its chance. It is not usual with the Diggers to make an attack of such a nature, but I suppose they were prompted by mo- tives of revenge for the peppering I gave one of them the day before, when following the sage-hens. We had fine feed at noon close along the river banks ; but although the road was level, it was most disagreeable, from the clouds of hot dust with which we were perpetually enveloped. It was not sand, but a fine imj)alpable powder, as light as ashes, that covered the trail; and being perfectly imponderous, was raised up in clouds from the trampling of the animals, covering everything and everybody, actu- ally choking the nostrils of the mules and horses, who ap- peared to suffer seriously from it, and giving some amongst us who had susceptible lungs, very teazing coughs. As soon as the cloud subsided, after stopping, we saw a squalid- looking Digger seated on the edge of the bank. I need not say that the first impulse was to blow him into the river; and, had he moved, such I believe, would have been his fate ; but he neither budged nor appeared in the least disconcerted. On the conti^ary, he " grinned horribly" a species of smile, and w^elcomed us with a sort of bowing salutation. I showed him the arrow, and where I was wounded, making signs to him to warn his tribe to keep clear of us, as we were resolved to shoot them without mercy on every occasion. When taking our Imich he looked wistfully at us, and at lengtli made signs that he was very empty and hungry, when one of the men threw him a biscuit, and another a cut of bacon, which he swal- lowed with such greedy voracity as to surprise us. We then gave him more and more, but all disappeared with the same insatiable rapidity as if his abdomen was a bot- tomless bag that could never be filled. This stimulated our curiosity, and we continued feeding him, just to see the full extent to which he could go. After making a clean finish of all the cooked meat, we gave him a greasy wedge FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. JM off a raw flitch of bacon, which he attacked with unflagging appetite ; but before he fully mastered it, he showed symp- toms of choke, and sank back in a kind of swoon: his stomach braced out with a pregnant rotundity that threat- ened an explosion, as he moaned and rolled in apparent agony. I began to fear tlie unfortunate creature had eaten himself to death, and that we had wasted a gi*eat quantity of food in a most reprehensible manner. How- ever, before we were ready for a fresh start he recovered a little, and after a great effort managed to get on his legs, and toddled off in a slow% but awkward gait, sitting down every fifty or eighty yai'ds, like a fellow resting under a hea\y load. We moved off in a cloud which rolled faithfully along with us the entire evening, and at times was so impene- trable it was next thing to impossible to see oiu: way, com- ing at every second waggon length jam into a big sage- bush, and the heads of the mules in tlie rear coming bump against the obstructed waggon. We followed the river through an open canon, in a low range of detached moun- tains, and camped on the other side : our couches not re- quiring the i)recaution of warming-pans, for the ground was almost hot enough to bake biscuit. Next morning we got into a flat valley, sliaped like a Y, coated all over with a thin saline incrustation, and all the bushes frosted with a hoar powder that gave it exactly tlie appearance of deep winter drapery, while the sun was toasting everything to a cinder. When we came to the tail of the valley the river left us in a southerly sweep, and canoned through the mountains in a very narrow precipi- tous channel, our tail slanting northerly over the brow. We took our nooning spell before we commenced the ascent, and prepared a lot of logs to key or i)rop the wheels at the rests. Though the range was steep it looked narrow, so that we calculated we could easily accomplish the crossing in the evening, lightening as much as we could by packing; nevertheless, it w^as a task of infinite toil to both man and beast to gain the top of the first elevation; on attaining which, far from having surmounted all difficulties, ^ve had to slide down with ropes and double-locks into a rocky defile, where we kept jumbling and jolting until dark, and took two hours of moonlight before we got to the end of it, where we were met by another steep and rugged ascent. 192 ACROSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, I should have been inclined to stop here till daylight if there were any grass or brambles on which the animals could browse ; but there was nothing save bare rocks and stones. It was nearly twelve o'clock when we got to the top of the other ridge : the moon shining out with glorious effulgence in the midst of a starry host that studded the clear blue firmament, forming a radiant canopy, not fre- quently beheld along the humid shores of the Atlantic, while its rays were reflected by the white crystal- covered plain below, which lay spread out, like the vast winding- sheet of a dead world, at the base of the lofty peaks, which cast their sombre shadows across the crooked river, resem- bling the mighty mausoleums of an extinct race of giants, standing in silence and solitude in this unfrequented re- gion, making a truly sublime scene, mellowed by the time and the circumstances under which it was suiTeyed. It took us some time to crawl down the mountain hips : the beams of the morning sun shedding their light beyond the range we had just crossed before w^e formed our camp; and as we reposed in the shadow at its base, it was a gor- geous spectacle to look out upon the sparkling desert, as it became gradually tinged with the rich red hues of morn- ing, deepening momentarily in colour, until it seemed at length to dissolve into an ocean of liquid vermilion. We had a late breakfast this morning, and did not get '' a-rollin' " until nine o'clock. There was no novelty in the appearance of the country: sterile and barren as usual, and the dust as smothering; several of our company showing symptoms of ophthalmia, and all suffering from hacked lips. Little ulcers were also observ^able in some of the horses' noses, which alarmed me veiy seriously lest they should become aggravated into glanders ; but I found they healed up by being frequently washed in a weak solution of alum. Portions of the plain we crossed to-day were composed of an earth almost as white as chalk, and baked so hard that neither the horses' hoofs nor the waggon-wheels made the slightest indentation on it. But the beams of the burning sun w^ere reflected from its polished surface with a roasting intensity that almost dried up the sources of existence, for what with a fire above and a red heat below, without a zephyr to cool the fevered lungs, or temper down the blood in its arterial manufacture, I feared some w^ould surely sink under it. What would we not have given for a wide-spread- FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 193 ing lime to nestle for a little while within its delicious shade ; but there was not a twig on the river bank where we nooned ; while, to add to our miseries, we now detected an acrid taste in the water, which smarted our cracked lips most teiTibly : it being evidently strongly impregnated with alkali. We derived veiy little benefit or enjoyment from om^rest, and had anotlier sliaip evening s task before us, in the cross- ing of another bank of mountains, w^hicli were not veiy elevated ; but what they lacked in height they made up in breadth and other difficulties, for the ravine through which the pass lay was filled with loose sand, in which the wheels sank eighteen inches. The river canoned here again in a southern direction, and so close to us that I had the curio- sity to visit it. There was a space at each edge where it first entered the mountain, but as it got towai'ds the centi'e it w^ashed tlie veiy walls of the precipice on each side : the aperture above looking like a mere slit, not lai-ge enough to let down sufficient light ; for the chasm through which the waters humed was as dai'k as Erebus within. We got to our camping-ground this evening m better time, but both men and animals were enenated and weakened by the sultriness of the day, and all as white as millers from the fine dust. Those complaining of sore eyes were now very bad, as well as those with delicate lungs, and our lips, I must say, were in a veiy unkissable condition. The river water was so bad this evening, that wearied as we were we dug a well, into which the water came plentifully through a porous soil; but of the two it tasted worse than the other, being even veiy disagreeably perceptible in coffee, and only palatably cold with any relish by an admixture of cream-of- tartar. Next day we travelled almost without deviation close by the river bank, but could in many places have made a more direct course than by following its bends, only that the artemesia was altogether impenetrable. In spots during the day we met bushes of wild currants, small and tart, and from that very quality, being a good anti-scorbutic, I recommended each mess to pull as many as would make a good pie, which we found palatable as well as wholesome. A lot of Indians kept dogging us all the morning, and the river being deeply fringed with willows, it w^as clear they purposed following us till evening, to see and get a shot at N 194 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, our stock; but we managed to disperse them in great alarm, by leaving six men in a dry gully at a point of the river round Avhich we went, taking a southerly slant, knowing that, if bent on mischief, they would pass very close to this angle. About half a mile farther on six more men drop- ped down quietly in the tall sage, the waggons and horse- men going on without any pause. Just as we anticipated, the Diggers, about thirty strong, shaved the point, without J perceiving the men in their rear, and as soon as they got midway betwixt both parties, each arose, charging them at a run, shouting and roaring lustily, and firing a few shots over their heads. Oh! it was a scene worth going a dis- tance, but not the whole distance, to see the frightened savages running as if their lives were at stake; jumping franticly in the air at each report, and clapping their hands on the spot, in anything but a derisive mood, as they got some grains of hea\y shot in a certain quarter. We continued the pursuit until we were positively over- come with laughter; whenever we saw them slackening their pace in the least, accelerating it again into full speed by a discharge from a rifle in the air. We arrived early in the evening, and a lovely one it was, at an elbow of the river, where there was the finest feed we met for some weeks : rich grasses, thickly interspersed with clover. Influenced by this temptation, as well as a desh-e to give the chefs de cuisine fair time to get tlieir confectionery in a state of perfectability, I consented to stop for the night ; but as we were regularly circumvented by willows, the re- mainder set about scouring the brush, to see if there were any lurking Diggers, that we might sen^e them with lati- tats : none being found, we sat down to a recherche supper, all things considered; but our sore lips, inflamed eyes, and irritated lungs, were a sad drawback to our enjoyment of it. The work next morning was harassing: getting through broken ground, where the loose sand was so very deep the wheels sank almost to the naves; the poor mules panting and stniggling knee-deep in it, while at a heat that would roast eggs. In one hollow it became so bad, that our best team gave in, refusing to move one inch; we therefore caught all the loose animals, and packed them together with the riding horses ; but even then we were obliged to double team for over a mile, coming back for the other waggons, which caused considerable delay; and as the FBOM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 195 draught animals were so jaded, I left tlie packs on until we came to our camping-gi-ound, turning in my mind for immediate proposition a project I foresaw would be forced upon us, sooner or later, and being inevitable, I thought it better to anticipate it. So, when we halted, I called the general attention to the condition of our animals, remind- ing them of the distance we had still to travel, and tlie fact that within that distance lay tlie two prime obstacles of tlie entire journey : the crossing of the desert, beyond the Sink of Humboldt Eiver, and the great Sierra Nevada, which, as tliey were aware, could only be surmounted by teams quite up to the mark. I therefore called upon each, not only as he valued the stock, but his own life, to consent to have the loads revised, and ever^iliing cast aside that was not absolutely indispensable : clothing as well as food. This, I must do them the justice to say, they cheerfully ac- quiesced in ; agreeing to appoint a man out of each mess as a committee of inspection, who were to decide and ap- portion the load of each, what was to be caiTied and what was to be rejected; I, as captain, being allowed a casting voice. It was computed we left Independence with twentj-two hundred-weight each, which it now was supposed had been reduced to twelve hundi'ed- weight. Of this, on a patient revi- sion, and calculating the number of days the journey would yet occupy, allowing ample rations for that period, and for a fortnight after our arrival, to give us breatliing-time to look about, we came to the conclusion tliat five hundred-weight from each might be thrown away; for, together with a super- abundance of provisions, we had many useless superfluities in the way of dress, ammunition, &c. which could be easily replaced in California. To begin, we went through the bacon, culling the -svorst, and weighing one hundred- weight from each waggon, togetlier with one hundred- weight of flour, and a proportion of biscuit, dried peas, beans, and raw coffee, of which we made half the complement, completing it with powder, lead, shot — of which we had a most inordinate quantity — boxes Avith extra tools, and a set of lumbering gold-washers, that v/ere very ponderous, and took up a great quantity of room. We weighed all accurately with steel- yards, leaving to each, as nearly as we could adjust it, seven hundred-weight, eveiything inclusive. The bacon, flour, &c. we packed in a nice heap, strewed over with willows 196 ACROSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, and rushes to protect it from decay, in case any emigrants not so amply provided as we were should require them ; but the powder, lead, and shot were hove into the river, lest they should fall into the hands of the Indians, and prove a source of annoyance and destruction to those who might follow us. Seven hundred-weight was a handy, j)ortable load, one would imagine, and easily managed with six mules ; hut they were so enfeebled by unremitting harass, hot sands, sultiy w^eather, and precarious food, that they moved it along with a greater effort than the twenty-two hundred-weight at starting. We calculated, also, that the revised loads would be still further reduced by two hundred-weight when w^e reached the base of the Sierra Nevada, which, if need arose, could be altogether earned on the loose and riding animals in packs, making out rather a favourable case for crossing that formidable range. There was another matter that gave us not a little uneasiness: it was the state of our wheels ; for since we began coming down Humboldt River, being constantly immersed in hot sand, the felloes and naves shrank, the tires loosened, and the spokes rattled like a bag of bones ; but we resolved to manage by wedg- ing until we got to the Sink, where we intended submerg- ing them in water, to swell them out, before attempting the desert, as we could not possibly devise any mode of cutting and welding the tires. The business of arranging our loads fully occupied us during our three nooning hours, but afforded us all infinite gratification to feel we had been easing our faithful animals of a large portion of their burdens, and that, too, without obliging ourselves to forego a single necessary that we were accustomed to use since we started. During our afternoon's drive we were not so much retarded with deep sand, but the light dust was, if possible, more annoying than ever. There happened to be a few pair of green goggles amongst the party, which were given to those suffering most from ophthalmia; and those afflicted with coughs wore a sort of mouth veil, made of some scraps of cambric we fished up in our finery. "We were fortunate enough, in the course of the afternoon, to fall in with a perfect orchard of wild currants, and pulled a most j)len- tiful supply, of a much better description than those we got before, which called to mind Jeremy Diddler's cele- FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 197 brated apostrophe: '-Be of good cheer, oh ye clamorous bowels!" The exertion of Hftmg and weighing had an evil effect on my womid, which now began paining me excessively, assuming so angry a look that I was yet apprehensive of poison, though the heat, the constant exercise, and the bad tone of system, were of themselves reason enough for tlie inflammation. I rode with great difficulty, but looked for- wai*d to some relief from the suppuration that was fast fonning, aided by fomentation as often as opportmiity offered. Being unable to move about as usual, I appointed a deputy j^ro tern, to look after camping-grounds, &c. to whom I generously yielded up all the large emoluments of tlie office. He located us this everting in very good quarters, as far as grass and water were concerned; but there was a forest of willows that left me very ill at ease as to the safety of the stock, and tlie men were so fagged that they were too lazy to go about seai'ching through it for Diggers. However, after supper, seeing some tall willows moving, without a breath of air to cause it, as no volunteers offered, I caused jUI the shot guns to be loaded up with heavy duck, and tired into the thickest places, not with a view of killing any skulkers, but to frighten them from their lairs. The shot made a great rustle, cutting through the crisp leaves and withered branches, producing no effect at first; but after two or three discharges the willows began to shake and shake more violently; on seeing which we raised a wild halloo, and fired a volley in quick succession ; some diu'ting into the scrub, which was now shaking like a barley-field in a stiff breeze. Presently a plop was heard in the water; and then another, followed by a succession of plop, plop, plop, plops, caused by the Indians jumping into the river to gain the other side : affording us an exhi- bition of aquatic feats in ducking and diving that would draw crowds to the Cremorne Gardens; for being afraid to go out on the opposite bank, as the river was so narrow, they kept diving down stream, followed by us on the banks, saluting them with shots the moment they popped their heads over water, exactly after the fashion of a water-rat hunt in a mill-race, until we saw the poor devils were fairly exhausted, when we drew back, and let them get out as they listed. I think the lesson prevented the same party 198 ACEOSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, from making any further predatory attempts dm^ing the season ; and I know, if only ordinary caution is used, safety would not only be insured, but those wretched savages be altogether cured of their annoying habits. CHAPTEE XYII. Another Surgical Operation— Obliged to take up my Abode in a Waggon— Time for Reflection — A Waggon Dream — Volcanic Indications — Spectral Waltzes — Shoot some Sage-hens — Bitter bad Water — Get into the Saddle again — Petrified Fungi and Volcanic Debris — Appalling Sterility— Diminution of the River — Thickness of the Water — The Ashy Dust — Miss Mitford's Definition of it — Ophthalmia in the Horses— Alluvial Bottom — Mileage in the Wilderness — Deceived as to the Sink — Frigidum Line — Ulcerated Sore Throats — Appearance of the Animals — Meagre Diet — Crippled Appearance of the Caravan — Magical Influence of Golden Anticipations — Pimping Indians — Mowing with Case-knives — Diggers come amongst us unawares — No Hostility— Get them to Work — Their Mode of wear- ing English Apparel — Make our Hay into Trusses, and divide it — Volcanic Evi- dences — The Sinlc of Humboldt River — Description of it — Order of Travel across the Desert — Reflections on the Sufferings of those who will come later in the Season — Account of their dire Character — Humboldt River free from the Musquito Torment. I AROSE from my bivouac next morning in such pain tliat I resolved anticipating the breaking of the tumom' by lan- cing, and got one of my friends to perform the surgical operation by puncturing it deeply with a sharp knife. The discharge was immense and the relief immediate; but my professional attendant strictly interdicted riding, and got a bed fixed for me in my waggon, which gives me an excuse for abbreviating my accomit of this day's travel, though, from what I could see tlii'ough the clouds, it did not differ hi any respect jfrom that which we passed since we struck the river. It gave me leisure for multifarious reflections touching the past, present, and future. Poverty-stricken Ireland, without a potato to dig; Humboldt River, with its mis- chievous Diggers ; and wealthy California, with its golden diggin's; and I thought, as I dozed off into a slumber, that FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 199 I was in the valley of tlie Sacramento, with a legion of tlie *' hereditary bondsmen," who were "tossin' up tlie yallow clay," as they called it, on the points of tlieir spades, shout- ing, "Hun*ah, my boys! the working-man's smnmer is come at last; we can get gold now, when the lords and squires are unable to reach it; tlie wheel has gone its round; bone and sinew now beat titles and professions; maybe we wont pay off our score of the nashunal debt, and repale the union, and set up for ourselves in raal eamist, in ould Ireland, w^ith the sky over it:" and as they amassed tlieir piles of treasure, tliey would at times pull off a stock- ing, and filling it with dust (not tlie dirty macadamised trash), tie it to the tail of a runaway steam-engine just going to start for Can'icknagat and Drumiscabole, to leave it witli Pegg}^ and the childher, and a trifle for poor Master John, to help him over the bad times, though he used to "poimd the cattle for the rint." And while they were thus em- ployed, a tall, gaunt, whey-coloured chap, with a broad- brimmed hat and epitomised inexpressibles, stalked into the midst of tliem, and said: — "I reckon that ar gold is none o' youm." " I reckon yom* mother I'ayred you in a hard summer, ould Paywattle," said Paddy Burke. "Mind, friend, if you realise what don't belong to you, you must pay our free and enlightened government thirty dollars a month: that's a fact." "Send a sweep," says Paddy, "up thini nosti'ils of yours, and laam to spake like a Christian. What call have you to it more nor us? If the Mexicans was bate, who bate them? Wasn't the Men-ican armee all Irish boys from the ould counti-y ? So none o' yer Yankee boastin' about whip- pin' tliini Hwe to one ; and to' hell witli yom- tax, Mr. Bare- bones! we'll dig our bellies full." One word "honied another, my darlint," as Mr. Burke would say, "till down came the possay comet-at-us, when the fun began in raal earnest, and maybe the tax-men didn't get Thulahogue's payment, more kicks nor ha'pence :" waking your humble servant in the row. The train pulled up to noon in a kind of peninsula, where the river runs close under a high hill, covered from top to bottom with volcanic debris and shai-p \itreous gravel, that wounded the woni-down hoofs of the animals, causmg them all to move tenderly. We continued our 200 ACKOSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, route ill a direct line towards a distant line of willows, w4iich indicated the course of the stream, avoiding a round of at least three miles. The plain was sj^arsely covered with sage, but marked with immense spaces of saline in- crustations, thicker and more firm than any we yet met, not even breaking under the wdieel. The effects of a w^hirl wind were curiously observable as it passed down the valley on the other side of the river along the base of the moun tains; but while it was sucking sage and sand in tall spiral columns into the clouds, and wheeling them along in rapid mazes and stupendous gyrations, like huge spectres waltzing to some unearthly music, we had not an air stirring on our side. As we approached the river again w^e were inter- cepted by a thick grove of sage, that debarred all progress without the aid of the axe; but it w^as not much of a job, being narrow; and w^e were recompensed for our trouble by flushing a flock of sage-hens, from which we picked out three brace, making a most agreeable addition to our cus- tomary supper. The water of the river, now clearly shrinking, both by evaporation and absorption, w^as positively bitter of alkali, preparing us for an increasing deterioration as we pro- ceeded: not a veiy consoling look-out for unacclimatised travellers, already suffering from its modified effects. The only cure left us, and one which we resolved pushing to the extreme, was despatch. All our ailing men were growing worse and w^orse ; and lest the example I set them of riding in a waggon should embolden others to look for a similar indulgence, I made up my mind to resume the saddle next day, let my pain or suffering be w^iat it might, as the lighter the load the greater the impunity from travel ; and even half a day saved from the trials of such a march w- ould be cheaply purchased at so much self-denial. Next day I had my charger saddled, but was painfully puzzled to get into my seat : my wound, though improved, being still much inflamed. We presented rather a no\ el appearance, some with green goggles, others with bandages across their mouths, and the remainder with aprons on their lips, w^hich w^ere really frightful and disgusting to look upon. The river, which heretofore flow^ed through flat bottoms, nearly on a level with its banks, now bent its course through high sand bluffs, outside of wdiich our trail lay; the general face of the valley, though more rolling and FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 201 broken, was still of the same unvarying character. We found in several places large masses of vegetable matter, looking like petrified fungi, which sti-uck me as out of place amidst the profusion of volcanic matter scattered so thickly around. I was curious enough to take a specimen on witli me, without being able to obtain a satisfactory- solution as to their anomalous location ; for there was not the smallest particle of vegetation except sage beyond the bluffs, and even that appeared worsted in the battle of existence. At nooning time we unharnessed from tlie waggons where they stood on the trail, and drove the stock over the sand-hills to the river; but even there the food was veiy indifferent, and tlie porous banks were fast diminishing the river into a paltiy stream, now nearly the consistence of thin giiiel, so fully was it impregnated with alkali, and nearly at a blood-heat. Taking a hint from the East Indian mode of cooling fluids, I sewed up my canteen in flannel, which produced a good effect, all the rest covering tlieirs in like manner; the effects of the lye not being so perceptible in the cooler beverage. The most smothering drive we had yet was this evening's one, over the light ashy dust, mixed with tlie white powder, and which, drifting at times from the contiguous incrustations, formed an imponderous volatile composition, that, once stirred up, only went to rest Avith the sun, filling the circumambient air with all sorts of prismatic hues, and making us smart as it settled in the deep chinks in our lips. In some places it gathered in -waves upon the plain after the subsidence of the winds, like a frozen ocean, reaching the mules' bellies as they waded through them at a snail's pace, that threatened momentarily to subside into total inaction. I believe it is Miss Mitford who designates dust as "mud in high spirits;" but I would, for my part, rather encounter it in its most sullen mood, than while thus disporting itself in cloudy mirth and revelry. I observed some of the horses this evening running water from the eyes, while three more w^ere added to the list of men ailing in that way. There was .much sighing and despondency; but I sought to keep up their sj^irits by the assurance that three days more would bring us to the banks of Carson Eiver: a cool, limpid stream, fed from the pure soiu-ce of everlasting snow; yet three days' probation 2Q9 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, to men in their state looked like eternity. Onr camp to- night was on the trail, and at noon the mules were driven over the sand-hills to pasture — such as it was ; hut not one of them, that I saw, went near the water. The only change worthy of notice in our next day's travel was, that , instead of travelling outside the sand bluffs, the trail crossed them as they receded from the river, and let us dowTi into a level alluvial bottom, evidently the course of the river in its swollen state. It was gTassy in spots, and, to our great relief and delight, free from dust ; the wheeling, too, was so iirm that the mules stepped out with new pluck, rattling merrily along, and making us forget, in om' improved progress, " all the ills that flesh is heir to;" fori do conscientiously believe that briskness of motion imparts elasticity and buoyancy to the spirits, as gloom and sadness always travel by a slow coach, moving like a hearse to the graves of gaiety and good humour. We made a splendid forenoon's drive of it, opening out by ten o'clock into a wide grassy plain, exactly on a level witih that on which we travelled, and, like it, bounded all round with sand-hills. This, I take it, is a lake in high water, backed up by the incapacity of the Sink to engorge so un- usual a quantity, which convinced me we were approaching it, making me sanguine enough about reaching it that evening, although somewhat beyond the distance which, according to apociyphal data, we had to travel; but in those unexplored regions a miss of a few miles might not be wondered at, when, on turnpike-roads at home, Hodge, who has been born and living in the parish all his life, will give an answer a few miles wide of the mark to an inquiry as to the distance to yonder village. We nooned on the western verge of the basin ; the river " becoming fine by degrees and l3eautifully less," and the water more deplorably bitter; but I kept alive the gay temper of the party by promising rations of brandy and water in the evening. The shoeing on one of the waggons got so loose towards evening that we had to pull up and wedge it all round ; indeed, all were in a very shaky state for getting over the Great Sierra Nevada. However, I knew, when I got amongst brooks, and rivulets, and snow-drifts, they would quickly regain their usual dimensions. The bluffs again approached the river, but left us a nice level track to travel on, where we stepped out, I can assm'e you, FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 908 as if we carried the mail, without kicking up a dust eitlier, having no turbulent or ambitious fly ti-avelling round the nave of the wheel. Stift' and aching as I was, I rode for- ward a good distance, hoping to have an agi*eeable surprise for my companions by annomicing the Sink; and was veiy nearly betrayed into the mistake on coming within \dew of a large tract of reeds and buhnishes, without any open line amongst them that I could see indicating the com-se of the river. Before, however, I turned about to retimi, and hail them with the glad shout, I rode round to the north-west side of the rushes, and there, to my disappointment, I found the odious river again emerging, running through a fertile hollow, where I chalked out our bivouac for the night. I alit and stretched upon the ground to await their an-ival, and was in a sound slumber when they came up, calling for the brandy. The instant after the animals were liberated a brimmer was served round to each, and drunk off without the contaminating admixture of any of Hum- boldt's water ; after which, we all timied on with a satisfied feeling, arising from the distance we made in the day's journey, together with the expectation of reaching the Sink on the morrow. At breakfast next morning several complained of sore throats and difficulty of swallowing. Having been myself a martyr to that ailment for a few years of my life, 1 un- dertook to prescribe for them. They arose from ulcers formed in tlie glands, produced, as I believe, by the use of the bad water, and the constant gulping down of the dust. The coffee tliis morning — augh ! it was not drinkable, being more nauseous by far than a decoction of senna and salts. A few mouthfuls of tlie cool fluid from our canteens, and a little bread, constituted our meagi-e meal, as I in- duced them to reh^ain from bacon in consequence of the thirst it would be sm^e to engender. The appearance of the animals was anything but gratifying; all of them being tucked up in the carcasses from the want of drink and food, seemmg stupid and heavy; nor was there enough of meal to afford them gruel without trenching on the stock laid by for the desert, which I held sacred. Altogether the caravan in eveiy branch — men, animals, and waggons — ^was in a very seedy and unsound state ; more nearly re- sembling a batch of invalids crawling in search of an hos- pital, than a band of adventurous travellers charging the^ Of 204 ACEOSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, great Sierra Nevada to jump into the golden valley of the Sacramento. But this load-star, and the anticipated luxu- ries of those fertile regions, teeming with delicious fruits, and decked in floral rohes of undecaying loveliness, kept up the flagging spirits, and hegat an energy which, although the pure offspring of hope, largely increased our physical abilities. We were again troubled with the dust to-day, but not to the same extent of some days back. However, the wheel- ing was sound and good, leaving little of a draught when once the waggons were in motion. My wound was considerably better, which enabled me to ride without much pain; so I started forward to examine the country with three other horsemen, expecting from every little rise to see the long- wished-for Sink before us. We saw numerous moving- specks along the hills to northward, that w^e knew were Indians, which restrained us from going too far in advance, lest they should be disposed to give us a "Eoland for our Oliver," in remembrance of the ducking a few evenings back. About nine o'clock we came to another rushy swamp, not, however, fully answering the description of the Sink; but from the fine patches of grass that were growing about it, we stopped to await the waggons, and commenced cutting- it with our knives, and tying it in bundles, to provide food for the desert, in which, by the accounts given by the few who have crossed it, we were not to expect any oasis or hospitable spot. We staked om' horses, and were stooped diligently at work without a suspicion of any sort; but after a little, as one of us stood up for a rest, as the tailors do, he saw we were favoured with the presence of about thirty Diggers, sitting quietly on their haunches, looking on at our pro- ceedings. Our first impulse was to run to our rifles; but the pacific posture of our visitors, and their nods and smiles, forbade the apprehension of danger. After a minute or so one of them rose, and held out his hand for the knife, making signs that he would cut gi^ass if I would give it him. I accordingly handed him one, signifying my satisfaction; and at it he went like a good workman, laughing immode- rately at the idea of his new employment. On seeing him go on so well I made signs to him that, if he got the others to help him, I would give them something for their trouble when the waggons came up : a proposition they assented FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 405 to with alacrity; those to whom we could not furnish knives pulling it up by the roots, so that in a short time we had our hay hanest in a very forward state. I kept my promise with my dingy mow^ers, giving, in addition to his food, to the Indian who led the way, a red flannel shirt; not, I must admit, in the most healthy condition. They were all mightily pleased, and eager for another job on the same terms, the shirt appearing to tickle their fancies amazingly , though the gentleman to whom I presented it got into it in an unfashionable manner: inserting his arms through cer- tain apertures in the armpits, and permitting tlie sleeves to hang down empty, like those on hussar jackets: evidently showing he w^as unaccustomed to haberdashery decorations. There is one torment from which it is exempt, so far as my experience goes : that is the musquito persecution ; but why it is so I cannot divine, for those poisonous insects are generally hatched in hot suns from the decayed vegetable matter of swamps and sloughs, which abound all along its solitary course. Nor can the mineral properties of the re- gion have anything to do with their absence; for the Platte nms through an alkaline soil, and Bear River empties itself into the Great Salt Lake amidst the buzz of their detest- able music. I made most elabomte efforts by signs, shrugs, and nods, with a liberal admixture of winks, to ascertain the where- abouts of the Sink, without being able to make them com- prehend me. But I was enabled to fomi some idea of tlie distance by learning from them that " the gi'eat hills were only three suns' distance from us," which they indicated by pointing one elbow into the air, then looking up at the sun, and describing the segment of a circle three times with the fore-finger of the other hand. A sun, according to their pantomimic meaning, measures about fifty miles, the dis- tance they can travel in a day, which would leave the Sierra Nevada one hundred and fifty miles distant, and the Sink consequently veiy contiguous. We divided our trusses into four lots, assigning one to each waggon, and resumed our journey without taking our full spell, in our anxiety to reach the Sink. Passing over a sharp gravelly bottom, full of flinty vitreous particles, veiy severe on the feet, round the hip of a low black mountain, so volcanic in appearance that you would ima- gine the fires ha,d just been quenched for a holiday, the $i06 ACROSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, rocks and scoriae looking as cindeiy as if just drawn from a furnace. From this we had a full view of the low sand ridges and marshy swamps that engulf the final dribble of Humboldt Eiver. We passed round to the south-west side over an immense baked plain, without shrub, or sand, or gravel, perfectly hard and unpleasantly white, paining the vision as it reflected back the sun's rays ; and halted close by the reeds, along which there was a wide saline incrus- tation, and an abominably foetid stench. The Sink, I could see, swelled into a lake in the rainy seasons, covering the plain over which we passed with an unbroken sheet of water; but at present it was composed of a paixel of stag- nant ponds and sloughs, without the slightest eddy that would give the idea of a sink or swallow-hole, so that I am inclined to think the waters are principally, if not alto- gether, carried off by evaporation, except what is subtracted by the absorption of the dry thirsty sands about the district. The moment we arrived we commenced taking off the wheels and submerging them in the swamp till evening, when we were to start again, the order of progress for crossing the desert being one night's march; a morning pause, to let the animals eat the grass ; another short stop, to give them gruel at noon; and then, ho for Carson Eiver, without a halt! The distance was sixty miles; but about ten from the Sink there are some sulphur springs, wdiere the water is somewhat drinkable ; there we arranged to fill our four water-kegs to make gruel for the stock, and our own canteens, which was all we were to expect. We ap- prehended great difficulty in keeping the faint trail in the dark, but agreed to take it in turns of two, to walk and act as pilots ; all nendng om*selves for the undertaking by the conviction that twenty-four hours more of unflinching per- severance would extricate us from our miseries, and bring us within reach of that unappreciated fluid : more precious in our suffering condition than the untold wealth of Cali- fornia. During the afternoon, as I tliought over what we en- dured in coming down Humboldt Eiver thus early in the season, when its waters were good for over half the dis- tance, I felt hon-ified while reflecting on the fearful trials that awaited the unfortunate emigrants in the rear, who would not probably reach it until that advanced period when, from source to Sink, it is little better than a strong FKOM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. ^07 solution of allvali; many of those, too, travelling by slow ox-teams, that at the lowest computation would take one- tliird longer in accomplishing it than we did. I regarded it as a task next tiling to impossible, and lamented to think it involved the fate of many an miconscious emigrant. Subsequent events fully justified my fears ; for I aftenvai'ds heard from packers who airived at California late m the year, that the banks of the Humboldt presented a truly shocking spectacle; -being marked by the perch, for the entire way, with rotting cai'casses of mules, horses, and oxen, and many a mound, showing the last resting-place of poor fellows who sank mider tlie fearful pimgs of thirst, shrivelled to death under a burning sun, witli only poisoned water to wet their fevered lips. Some, who were able to bear up under those trials, lost all thek teams, and were compelled, as a last resource, to take such packs of provisions as men in tlieir enfeebled state could cai*r}% with a journey of near five hundred miles; tlie desert and tlie Sierra Nevada still before tliem. It was not unusual to see a devoted mother staggering over tliose burning plains, CiUT^ing her helpless offspring on her back, when drooping herself from sickness and exliaustion. All of those, every soul, would have inevitably perished oidy for the charity and humanity of stronger and more for- tunate travellers, who shared with a cheerful alacrity every necessaiy tliey possessed; some of tliem, m their micalcu- lating bounty, reducing themselves to the same level of destitution, from which they in tuni were only partially rescued by an extraordinaiy effort of the government, who sent from California, on being apprised of their condition, supplies of provision and animals to cany them to tlieir destination. Yet this is the river of which Colonel Fremont says, in the exti'act already quoted, "that it possesses quali- ties which, in the progi*ess of events, may give it both value and fame, ha^ing properties that give it a prospective value in future communications with tlie Pacific." Fame it abeady has, of a dreadful and lugubrious character; but how it can ever be valuable as a means of communication with the Pacific, subject to such excessive alternations as it annually experiences — at one season swollen beyond its banks in an impetuous cm-rent, and then subsiding into a ropy puddle — I am too stupid to discover. 208 ACROSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, CHAPTER XVIII. The Wheels braced by Immersion— Face the Desert in good Spirits— Blinding Dust —The Sulphur Springs— Heat of the Morning Sun— Grand Exhibition of Mirage — Dreadful Toil — "V^lthering Heat — Insensibility of some of the Men — Impatience of the Stock while getting their Gruel— Temporary Insanity— Simoom— Its Pro- vidential Effects— Hurrah !— Carson River— The Science of Guzzling— Conduct of the Insane Men — Scenes of the Desert — Heartless Conduct — Whence the Name ■ of Carson River — Its Course and Peculiarities— A Day's Rest in Paradise — Re- covery of the Invalids— Colonel Fremont's Description of the Great Basin. At one o'clock we had our wheels on, mules to, and eveiy- thing ready for the desert march. The wheels were all the better for the immersion, being braced as tight as drums, and free from the slightest rattle : a compliment I am unable to pay the men and animals, who were as lank as gentility itself. However, the fulness of spirit made up for any corporeal shrinking, for they all responded to the order "March," with as obedient an alacrity as if going to witness a review. We soon left the greenish confines of the Sink in a south-westerly course, and got out on the shores of the sandy ocean, calculating to reach the sulphur springs before dark ; but we got in amongst the still billows of the light ashy earth which I have before described, that retarded us very seriously; the mules, being literally obliged to breast through them, made the dust rise in such dense clouds that it well-nigh suffocated us, and completely blinded us as to the track. We had near three miles of this nuisance, and by the time we got through, the mules were panting from exhaustion, and snorting or sneezing convulsively from the effects of the quantity of stuff lodged in their nostrils and inhaled in their breathing. Owing, I suppose, to the watchful sagacity of the mules, it so happened that we did not go much aside from the trail, which we soon regained by a slanting course to the north-west; but in consequence of the delay in the soft sand, it was ten o'clock when we reached the neighbour- FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 209 hood of the sulphur springs, which we would have un- doubtedly overrun, only that the mules set up a most dis- cordant braying, which warned us of their proximity. We watered those in harness without disengaging them, leaving the loose ones to help themselves, but the water was too strong of sulphur to permit of their taking a long drink. We filled our kegs and canteens after taking a few sips, for neither the nose nor palate relished it much. We got on very well afterwards during the night, the sand being tole- rably compact, and the light from the twinkling stars being sufficient to point out the trail. At the first gray blink of morning we took out the mules and unharnessed them, tliat they might enjoy a tumble, giving them the grass, and taking ourselves a stretch for an horn': the time appointed for tlie guard to call us up. The red sun was peeping over the eastern mountains in our rear when we arose to eat a biscuit moistened in sulphur water. I expected to have seen the peaks of the Great SieiTa Nevada, but the hazy horizon of the sandy waste hid tliem from our view, leaving nothing to be seen but sand, not even a solitary plant of artemesia marking the unvarying surface of the desert. The sun fired up with great intensity, and so very early as eight o'clock, stinick with a glow that made us quail at the idea of its meridian vigour, and causing us to have frequent recourse to the stinking liquor in our canteens. I admonished all to hus- band it, bad as it was, with miserly care ; desiring them to try tKe expedient of carrying a pebble in their mouths, which generated a secretion that modified the thirst. We got on at a round steady pace, averaging three miles per hour, until ten o'clock, when we met a district of soft sand, not of the imponderous sort, which strained the sinews of the honest mules to their utmost extent, making it painful to look at the steadfast creatures as they worked determi- nedly along; for the labour was so very distressing, that even the loose stock got through it with considerable exertion. We had an opportunity this morning of witnessing, I think in its most copious and magnificent form, that won- derful illusory spectacle of mirage: first in the shape of an extensive lake, the placid and translucent bosom of which was dotted over with islands, beautifully wooded and gi-ace- fully reflected in the glassy waters ; its picturesque shores in- o ^0 ACROSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, dented with shady bays, and handsome peninsulas jutting out at points, finely timbered with stately trees. Then, like the moving of a stupendous panorama, the waters passed away to make room for the semblance of a mighty city, surmounted with domes, and spires, and columns, obelisks and minarets, opening into vast architectural vistas and enchanting boulevards ; where triumphal arches, frown- ing towers, and gorgeous pagodas were successively dis- closed to view; and as those melted into haze, the sylvan suburbs swelled ravishinglyon the sight, revealing majestic parks and umbrageous avenues, that alluringly invited us to their cool, delicious shades. But this is a tame and in- adequate description of the superb illusion: the marvellous grandeur of which is alike beyond the powers of the pen to describe or the pencil to pom'tray. I thought for the time I was on enchanted ground: forgetting in my admir- ing amazement the arid desert and its burning horrors. It is a curious fact with regard to mirage, as showing how much more largely the brute than the man is endowed with mere instinct, that, while the reasoning creature is fre- quently deceived in the exercise of the sense of vision, the dumb beast is never for a moment at fault. We often saw what we could have sworn was water, and would have been betrayed into a phantom hunt, had it not been for the si- lence of the mules, whose superior sagacity could detect its neighbourhood without the con^oboration of a glimpse. After two hours of dreadful toiling through the loose hot sands we emerged on a hard plain, broken in places, but devoid of a particle of any sort of vegetation. This was a great relief to the draught animals ; but the direct flames of the solar fire seemed absolutely to curl around us, creat- ing a wavy visible sort of atmosphere, as if we were moving through transparent smoke ; and this at length produced a state of insensibility in some and madness in others : four of the men coming up to me and demanding water in a most peremptory tone, as if I had a supply, and denied them access to it. About twelve o'clock we halted, to ad- minister the gruel to the animals ; but there were only seven men out of the entire able to lend a hand. Some were howling for water, and some threw themselves in a fainting state under the shade of the waggons. I never felt myself so nearly overcome ; and only through a great effort I made, feeling that, as the conductor of the company, it was in- FKOM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 211 cumbent on me to set a good example, I also should have sunk in the struggle. As soon as the poor brutes in hai'- ness heai'd the gurgling of the water from the kegs, they brayed, as I thought, in a piteous tone, saying, " Oh ! let us have some!' while the others pressed around, bemg with difficidty restrained from trampling on us while we were drainmg it off; and it was a matter of no small trouble to give each his basin, from the manner in which the others would poke into it. This done, the word "Move I' was passed; but I found one of the teamsters altogether incapable of driving, and, sore against my grain, had to place him and the two insane men in the waggons : the latter having become so restless and outrageous that I was reluctantly constrained to resort to the disagreeable alternative of tying them do^vn. Those who were imder the -waggons did not appear to hear the order, nor could they be got to heed its iteration until the waggons were moved on, and they were left exposed to the sun, when they arose, but in a dreadfully enervated state. I implored, I exhorted tliem to stniggle on for two hours more, when we would reach relief; but they were deaf and insensible, and had to be lifted into their saddles. At length we all got ui motion, and thi'ee of the least exhausted men roile aliead on our best horses, with direc- tions to return and meet us as soon as possible with water, which I knew from the time of travel could not be more than ten or twelve miles off, unless we missed our way: an idea I would not entertain, for it involved our entire de- struction. Boon after the men started, a small black cloud arose in the north, and before it attained any great magnitude, a sighing ah' of wind was felt passing us by, followed in the distance by a line of dust extending along the entire hori- zon. I never heard of a simoom on the North American continent, but I had seen the effects of a whirlwind, and thought there was one now rushing upon us, from which there was no shelter nor escape; the only thing to be done being to back the waggons in a line to it, and await its fury and results. Before, however, the evolution was fully made, it came upon us with a roaring violence, driving the sand before it in clouds and. waves that soon raised it in a drift to the height of the waggons ; the mules and horses, cow- ering, backed into the shelter, while the roof was torn 212 ACKOSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, completely off one waggon, and carried out of sight like a feather. It had not been raging quite five minutes when heavy drops of rain began falling; the wind abating as they increased into a copious deluge that drenched eveiy- thing, quenched our fever, and entirely resuscitated the animals, producing all the effects of an internal draught; the greedy pores of the skin absorbing it instantaneously, for the shower was not well over when the saturated gar- ments were as dry as touchwood. The poor creatures in the waggons derived some relief from sucking the waggon .sheets, and with one accord we raised our hands and thoughts to a beneficent Providence, returning thanks for the timely deliverance. All now felt endowed with fresh vigour, and were quite independent of succour when the men returned from the river, reporting it only four miles distant; at the same time pointing out to us the line of planting peeping above the sand bluffs, so that within one hour and a half we were driving down the slope to Carson River. Before it appeared in view the loose stock ran madly past us, •dashing into the cooling current until they were nearly a-swim. The mules in harness also made a rush to be off'; one team actually succeeding in breaking away in conse- quence of the weakness of the teamster; thus upsetting the waggon in the stream, damaging ever}"thing it con- tained, and very nearly drowning one of the insane men who was tied in it. Some of the men appeared to have as little self-control as the brutes, and kept swilling goblet after goblet until I thought they would burst. I permitted the insane men to crawl out, and went down with them, lest they should go beyond their depth; but instead of xipproaching the water, they both lay down in the wet sand as with one impulse, and commenced scraping it over their stomachs precisely in the same manner, endeavouring, you would fancy, to imitate each other in all their actions and incoherent ravings. I got each to drink a small cup of water, and had them removed to their tents, administering to them some cooling medicine, which produced a very quick and salutary effect. We r^ained where we were for the night; the whole duty of standing guard, cooking, &c. devolving on myself and two others ; the remainder, and those in regular rota- tion, protesting their utter inability to do so. It was par- FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 218 ticularly hard on me, having been on duty the night before ; but I was so elated at having got over the desert in safety, that I made no scruple about it; tliough I must admit my eyes were unwilling parties in the undertaking, giving me incessant bother to keep them in a state of active co-ope- ration. I heard from the same parties who gave me the infor- mation respecting Humboldt River, that the scenes and occurrences in the desert even transcended the others in melancholy horror; the whole line being marked with puti'id carcasses and deserted waggons, while the air was filled with the moans of the dying, the wails of the suffer- ing, and the wild screams of the maniac. Few, if any, had teams in a state to take them over the barren waste at one flight, the nine-tenths being obliged to wait in the middle of this oven, and send on the animals to reciniit for a few days; when some few, who were in a position to do so,, commenced a trade of packing small kegs of water on their mules, and retailing it at exorbitant rates; but their heart- less extortions drove the sufferers into a united exertion to sink a well, which was rewarded by a moderate supply of tolerable water. I have no manner of doubt, that had we proceeded without lightening our loads, we would also have been obliged to halt; for even with what we carried^ we had very little indeed to spare. Carson River takes its name from a celebrated moun taineer called Kit Carson, who from his earliest years evinced a great disposition for roaming amidst the wild scenes of this unexplored country; a leaning he afterwards indulged in to the fullest extent, anticipating the discove- ries of scientific research, becoming thoroughly familiarised with Indian habits, and personally known to many of the tribes, over whom he exerts a great influence. He gave his name, as in this instance, to localities, from being the first to find them out; aiding the government of his coun- try in making amicable treaties with warlike Indians ; and is now, I believe, in the employ of the States in some capacity connected with the sphere of his experience. Carson River is a handsome, clear stream, and has its source in the regions of perpetual snow, flowing down the eastern flank of the Sierra Nevada, and like all the rivers issuing from the mountains in the circumference of the Great Basin, obeys the general law of losing itself in a lake ^14 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, of its own formation. It abounds in salmon-trout, and has a course of about one hundred miles, with a fine bank of alluvion running along it the entire distance on each side, save where it canons in the mountains. The morning after our arrival we moved about five miles up the river, into a glorious meadow of clover and rich nutritious grasses, shaded with gigantic oak and cotton- wood trees, under which the stock fed with comfort, there being no brush or underwood to intennipt them. I deemed it prudent to remain here for two days, to allow them to pluck up for the last great task — the crossing of the Sierra — giving those who had s^ijenchant for light-coloured linen an opj^ortunity of exclaiming, with Hamlet, "Ay, there's the rub I " There was a nice shelving sand-bank on our temporary domain, sloping into the stream beneath the stem of an overhanging oak, over which the tiny waves of the limpid current chased each other in smiling sportive- ness, wooing us into their chaste embrace with resistless witchery. This was the favourite haunt of all; here we bathed, and rolled, and lolled, and paddled, cleansing away in the pure stream the abominations of the Humboldt, and drinking deep draughts of health and vigour at this primi- tive dispensary; so that, within the forty-eight hours of our sojourn, the general improvement was as astonishing as it was delightful. Once over the desert, although still nearly ninety miles from the great Sierra Nevada, I regarded myself as at the rim of the Great Basin, a brief description of which I will transcribe from the condensed memoir of Colonel Fremont, already quoted from, showing how exactly it tallies in the general character with the description I gave of it in the foregoing pages : — "East of the Sierra Nevada, and between it and the Eocky Mountains, is that anomalous feature in the conti- nent, the Great Basin, the existence of which was advanced as a theory after my second expedition, and is now estab- lished as a geographical fact. It is a singular feature : a basin of some five hundred miles in diameter every way, between four and five thousand feet above the level of the sea, shut in all around by mountains, mth its own system of lakes and rivers, having no connexion whatever with the sea, and only partly and sparsely inhabited. " The general character of the Great Basin is that of a FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 215 desert, but with great exceptions, there being many pai'ts of it fit for tlie residence of civiHsed people, and of tiiese parts the Mormons have lately established themselves in one of the largest and best. Mountam is the predominat- ing feature of the interior of the basin, with plains between ; the mountains wooded and watered, but aiid and .sterile; the interior mountains conforming to the law which governs the course of the Rocky Momitains and the Sierra Nevada, ranging nearly nortli and south ; and present a ver}^ uniform character of abruptness, rising suddenly from a veiy narrow base of ten or twenty miles, and attaining an elevation of two to five thousand feet above tlie level of tlie country' on which they stand. They are giassy and wooded, showing snow on their summit peaks dm-mg the greater pai*t of tlie year, and afibrding small streams of water from live to fifty feet wide, which lose tliemselves, some in lakes, some in dry plains, and some in belts of alluvial soil at their base — for these mountains have very uniformly this belt of allu- vion, the wash and abrasion of their sides — rich in excellent grasses, fertile and light, and loose enough to absorb small streams. Between these mountains are the arid plains, which receive and desene the name of the Desei-t. Such is the general structure of the inteiior of tlie Great Basin : more Asiatic than American in its character, and much resembling the elevated regions between the Caspian Sea and Northern Persia. The rim of the Great Basin is mas- sive ; ranges of mountain, of which the Sierra Nevada on the west, the Wah-Satch and Timpanogos chains on the east, ai-e the most conspicuous. On tlie nortli it is sepa- rated from tlie waters of the Columbia by a branch of the Rocky Mountains, and from the Gulf of California on the south by a belt of mountain ranges, of which the existence has only been very recently deteimined. "Snow abounds on them all; in some, on their loftier parts the Avhole year round; with wood, and grass, and copious streams of water, that sometimes amount to con- siderable rivers, flowing inwards, and forming lakes or sinking in the sands. Belts or banks of good alluvion are usually found at their bases. The interior of the Great Basin, so far as explored, is found to be a succession of sharp mountain ranges and naked plains, such as have been described. These ranges are isolated, presenting summit lines broken into peaks, of which the highest are between 216 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ten and eleven thousand feet above the level of the sea. They are thinly wooded, with some varieties of pine [pinus monophyllus characteristic), cedar, aspen, and a few other varieties, and afford in places an excellent quality of bunch grass, equal to any found on the Rocky Mountains. Black- tailed deer and mountain sheep are frequent in these mountains, which, in consideration of their grass, water, and wood, and alluvion at their base, may be called fertile in the radical sense of the word, as signifying a capacity to produce or bear, and in contradistinction to sterility. Sterility, on the contrary, is the absolute characteristic of the mountains; no wood, no water, no grass; the gloomy artemesia, the prevailing shrub. No animal except the fleet and timid antelope : always on the watch for danger, and finding no place too dry or barren which gives a wide horizon for its view and a clear field for its flight. Few birds are seen on the plains or mountains. But few Indians are found, and these in the lowest state of human existence, being not in communities, but in the elementary state of families, and sometimes a single individual by himself, except about the lakes, stocked with fish, which is the pro- perty and resort of a small tribe. The abundance and ex- cellence of the fish in most of the lakes are characteristic, and the fishing season to those Indians is the happy season of the year." FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA dlT CHAPTER XIX. start from Carson River — Abridged Editiqp of the Desert — First View of the Great Sierra Nevada — Innocent Refieciions — Laudable Forbearance — Doubt and Anxiety — Removed by Patience — Indian Mischief — Sad Retribution — No Alter- native — Appearance of the Country — Indian Troop — Their Errand — Their Views — Carson River again — Can't catch Fish— Indian Footprints — Tangled Trail — Volcanic Debris — Surprise — Some Indians — Their Terror — Their Loathsome Look — Trail over Cinders and Clinkers — Its Effect on the Mules and Waggons — Full Profile of the Great Sierra Nevada — Its Grand Appearance — Lovely Valley — Gigantic Pines — Fremont's Description — Our Camp at the Moun- tain Base — Indian Visit — Trade for Trout — They Dissemble their Skill in Arch- cry — Method of Drawing them Out — More Fish next Morning — Indian Mode of Getting into English Apparel — Romantic Emotions — Yankee Definition — Passage of an Awful Canon — Description — A Rreak-down — The Crossing of the Torrent — Reed Lake — Reach the Foot of the Pass— Its Impracticable Look — What the Horses think of it — What the Mules — Preparations for the Ascent. On the morning of the fourtli day after reaching the Carson, we started, in improved health and spiiits, to accomphsh the last great stage of our long and trying journey; travel- ling close to and parallel with the river for six miles, we then separated, holding our course due west, it taking a southerly sweep amongst the mountains. As soon as we left it, we lost tlie grass and the level trail, and became encompassed once more in the gloomy wilderness of arte- mesia, with a long, tiying rise to ascend. The path was uncommonly rough, and would have shaken the wheels to pieces, had we not left tliem soaking in the river for two days. From the point at which we left tlie river to where we expected to strike it again, the distance laid down in our way-hill was twenty-five miles: an abridged edition of the Desert the whole way, without water or grass : making the day's journey tliirty-one miles; quite long enough on good roads, but certainly too far, if it could be avoided, over such loose rocks and stones, and sharp gravel as lay in our way. From the summit of the rise we got the first good and distinct view of the Great Sierra Nevada range, stretch- Sf8 ' ACROSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, ing beyond the scope of vision north and off south, with pointed snow-capped peaks between us and the land of promise, reminding me of days gone by, and garden walls capped with glass to prevent naughty boys from stealing the rich fruit beyond them ; but greedy urchins climbed the garden walls and plucked the fruit, and avaricious men scaled the glaciered ridges of the mountain, and were gathering the treasure that nature enclosed so jealously. There was nothing grand or striking in the immediate sceneiy ; but there were precipitous passes too numerous to mention, which I would have been glad in the earlier part of my journey to have had to descant on, but the reader and I have by this time become too familiarised with scenes of the sort not to concur in the opinion that it would smack of book-making were I to give even kit-cat portraits of such common places. This day was not so insufferably hot as usual, which induced us to forego our nooning rather than run the risk of not gaining the river before dark. The animals, too, were working well up to their collars, which gave us another plea for doing so. As we consumed the afternoon every eye was looking anxiously to the south, to see where we might again expect to meet the Carson ; but the veiy close and unbroken look of the mountain chain in that direction did not appear to leave any aperture for it to come through, and the distance round the extreme point was such that it would be quite impossible to get up before night. We mechanically fol- lowed on the trail a considerable distance in this suspense : all agreeing that we might not expect to find the river until we reached the mountain point; but just as the vote of coincidence was taken, we were pleasingly convinced of our error by the opening out of a dark glen in the moun- tain-side, through which it forced its way, and was travel- ling all the time of our disputation almost within ear-shot of the debate, on the other side of a high sand bluff, where we fixed our camp. Before dusk we were startled by our stock rushing up from the river edge in a terrible fright, the cause of which was soon apparent from an arrow, as ill luck would have it, in the neck of the bell-mare, which, when looking back on the shaft with the feathered end sticking out, wheeled round and round, as if to avoid and shake it off; then, snorting in affright, galloped for a spurt, followed, as FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. dll) a matter of course, by the remainder of the animals, some of which at length coming in contact with it, broke it off close by the flesh. It was high up in the crest, and there- fore not dangerous, scarcely bleeding a droj^ ; but although she permitted us to catch her, she would not allow us, all we could do, to extract it; so we let her rest until morn- ing, turning our attention to the perpetrators of the out- rage. The night was pretty clear, with the moon a quarter old, when six men volunteered to cross tlie river about half a mile down, where, spreading out over a wide, gravelly bar, it became shallow and fordable. The mare having become peaceable, the stock commenced feeding again, while we returned to our tents as if nothing had occurred, watching at the same time closely. Soon after it was evident there ^ was something astir, for tlie animals all raised up their heads, looking towai'ds the river, and almost at the same moment foiu* distinct shots were heard on the other side. On ninning down, our comi-ades shouted over to us that two of the wretched Indians were killed out of a party of eighteen or tw^enty. It would have given me gratification if they were crippled or wounded, as they richly deserved some punishment for such acts, but the hurrying of two unfortunate souls into eternity for hunting a dumb beast, lay, I must say, with sad concern upon my conscience. However, it must be allowed, tliat unless such conduct is checked, by making summary examples, the lives and properties of himdreds of emigrants might be sacrificed by having their teams destroyed, and being thus disabled from reaching their destination. We separated from the river early next day, again taking a line to the mountain point remaiked the evening before. The path here was perfectly level for eight miles, and free from obstiniction of any sort. But as w^e advanced detached peaks started into view all around us, having no connexion whatever with the SieiTa. They were of pleasing configur- ation, grassy, and partially timbered to the tops, but none at taining an elevation to retain the snow-caps. After passing the point, the trail descended an incline for about five miles, bisecting in a dark line an immense white tract, that shone like snow in its glossy whiteness, which, at the distance, I took for a large saleratus lake dried up by evar poration. When about half-way doyni the slope a con- 220 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, siderable body of mounted men were seen riding at a rapid pace across it, whom I distinguished by the glass to be Indians: perhaps on a mission of revenge. I was sick at the thought of blood since last night, but, neverthe- less, it was a duty we owed ourselves to guard against danger; so I called on the men to prepare, but to be cool and steady. The Indians had by this time come pretty close, and were driving before them an unbridled horse, with a short staff carrying the American flag fastened in an upright position to the horn of the saddle ; a few of the Indians being jDartially clothed in civilized attire, I concluded we had nothing to apprehend; neither did they fear anything, for they rode right up to us before they pulled a bridle. The chief of the party, speaking some English, told us they came direct from California, from the valley of the Sacramento, and were in the employ of Captain Sutter, w4io despatched them on their present errand to the head of Humboldt River, to meet Mrs. Sutter, who was on her way out, and to conduct her to the settlements. He gave us minute particulars respecting the remainder of the route, and news of great encouragement about the mines ; dismounting, going through the form of picking and wash- ing, showing us by a measure of gravel in his hand, how much we could gather each day *'to work good," but warn- ing us to be on our guard for " bad Indian, as he kill mule;" a piece of advice we all along anticipated. They took their leave without asking for anything (a very unusual occurrence for an Indian), but I suspect Captain Sutter fitted them out so liberally they were not in want, for they had a number of well-laden pack-horses with them. The white space we saw from the eminence was a stra^ tum of clay whiter than chalk, and polished like statuary marble: excessively hard for about two inches in depth, after which it got gradually softer. From this we ascended to a mountain gap, whence we had another view of Carson Eiver, which was here heavily timbered, reaching it at five o'clock, after a march of twenty-five miles. On watering our stock, we found the sands everywhere imprinted with the bare-foot marks of Indians, employed, as w^e supposed, in fishing, from the number of fine trout we could see in the clear stream ; but they studiously avoided us, though if they had brought us fish to exchange we would have given FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 221 them a liberal trade. Their coyness made us all the more watchful, especially from what Sutter's Indians told us; however, they did not molest or annoy us in the least. We spent the evening in angling, some with baits and some with flies, but we did not get a solitary nibble, though we could see those fastidious trout coming up to survey our temptation, and then turn contemptuously away —a sad disappointment, for we had laid our accounts for great fish feasting on the Carson. We also tried the net; but the waters were so clear they saw all our movements, and evaded our machinations. We stuck closely to the river tlie next day, following it through small canons and thickly-wooded ravines, where we were obliged to precede the waggons with knives and saws to cut a passage through the tangled binish tliat was so twined across our path, with nothing but an Indian, foot trail, as to be otherwise impemous. In some of the open places on the banks there were temporaiy huts erected ; the spaces about them were strewed with fish heads and bones in thick profusion, demonstrating the abundance, and showing, too, that they must have been of a good size ; but as yet we could not lay eyes upon an Indian. The river at length bent between two lofty hills, along the base of which the cotton-wood trees were too close to admit of a passage, and too large to give room for the idea of cutting a line of them down; we therefore took a track inclining to the north, where the land rose to a good altitude, exhibiting more recent effects of volcanic action than we had yet met with. We saw plenty of deer-trail in the various dells we passed, and, in the absence of fish, and being now a long time without a change of fresh food, we organised a hunting party, who diverged from the trail, and were not long gone when there arose a loud shout, a sort of whoop, as if in close chase, that gave rise to the expectation of a gi*izly bear, as we were now within their territoiy; but as I can- tered to the edge of the break from whence the sounds issued, I met three squaws canying their infants, accom- panied by two gro\vn-up children, who immediately set up a most piteous piercing ciy, and sat down rocking to and fro, seeing they could not escape, and fearing each moment was to be their last. I got down and sought to pacify and assure them, making all the friendly signs I had picked up in my travels, but to no purpose ; they still kept rocking ^k8 across the eocky mountains, and wailing in a most penetrating strain, all but the elder children, who did not appear much terrified; standmg mutely gazing at me during the scene. I beckoned them to come to the waggons, which were now at hand, and I would make them some presents ; as I could not, however, induce them to stir, I went to bring them something, but, so soon as I tmned away, they darted again into the thicket, and I saw no more of them. They were loath- some-looking Avretches, low in stature, with long black matted hair hanging in ropes over their faces, and of a flabby habit of body that rendered them peculiarly repul- sive. Now and then we could hear another halloo, and finally two shots saluted our ears, that at first startled me, think- ing they might have been aimed at the flying Indians ; but a recollection of our conversation after the late tragedy re-assured me, and further confiimation was soon after added by the hunters themselves, carrying the carcase of a fine black-tailed deer. The hills and country before us had a most scorched and blackened aspect: presenting an appearance as if a volcano had been flaring-up in the neighbourhood overnight, and that the stones and stuff it had vomited up were barely cooled. They consisted of sharp angular blocks, thrown in iiTCgular beds and heaps, like cinders and clinkers around a furnace, and made a very unpleasant causeway; so loosely strewn in places that you could see several feet down amongst them, making it dangerous for the feet, and shaking the waggons so tre- mendously that one of the axles showed symptoms of yielding, which rendered it necessary to splice and tie it up ; while four of the mules got veiy seriously cut about the legs and fetlocks, which made them unfit to continue in harness. After scrambling over about three miles of this sort of road, we struck the river again, and went up it a good distance, till we came to a low open tract, w^hich it almost surrounded ; the land appearing as if formed by the allu- vial deposit of the stream, which, from the watermarks on the hill's side, we saw covered it completely in the winter season. It had a splendid crop of grass, on which we stopped to noon, and emerging from it by a short narrow pass, came into full view of the great range of the Sierra Nevada, without an obstacle to prevent the eye from scan- FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. J!J23 ning the lowest ledge at the base, up to the highest peak in the clear blue azure heavens. It was a noble and aston- ishuag spectacle, especially calculated to arrest and fix the gaze of those only accustomed to behold our little insular tumuh. The range was not more than nme miles off, m a direct line, but tlie trail took a south-westerly trend, leadmg into a valley that lay along the foot, embraced by the Carson, that bounded it on tlie south and east, and which for soil, situation, and natm-al chai-ms, eclipsed the most highly favoured localities in our jommey. I got into an ecstatic mood on entering it, feeling as though I stood in fairy-land; and in the blissful serenity that reigned around, feai-ed almost to breatlie, lest the mortal contami- nation should dissolve the dehcious spell by which I was entranced. It looked peacefidly hallowed in its Elysian lovelmess; too happy, too divme a spot for the dwelling- place of other than pure misinful essences, where the can- kers of worldly ambition could never take root, or spread their baleful influences. The valley is some twenty miles long, of an oval shape, reclining on a sweet easy slope from the base of the Sierra to tlie river, intersected with nume- rous small streams of the most crystal clearness, flowing down the momitain flank ; and the soil is composed of a black unctuous loam, yielding verdant crops of clover, and rich indigenous grasses, enamelled with beauteous flowers of the most delicate tints, like a lovely lawn: a striking contrast to the stupendous range of mountains which tower above it in tlie heavens with a pecuharity entirely their own : rising immediately from a level surface, like a pyramid from the plain, then* sides covered with gigantic pines which partake of their peaky character, and stand so far apart, that they feather out below to an immense length, and taper upwards with the most imiform gradation till they terminate in a point fomied by a solitary leader. Colonel Fremont thus describes the range: — "The Great Sierra Nevada is part of the gi-eat mountain range, which under different names, and at different elevations, but with much unifonnity of direction, and general proximity to the coast, extends from the peninsula of California to Kussian America, and without a gap in the distance tlirough which the. waters of the Rocky Mountains could reach the Pacific Ocean, except at two places where the Columbia and Frazer's Eiver respectively find thek passage. The great range is ^M , ACROSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, remarkable for its length, its proximity, and its parallelism to the sea coast; its great elevation, often more lofty than the Rocky Mountains, and its many grand volcanic peaks reach- ing high into the region of perpetual snow, rises singly like pyramids, from heavily-timbered plateaux, to the height of fourteen and seventeen thousand feet above the level of the sea. These snoAvy peaks constitute the characterising fea- ture of this range, and distinguish it from the Eocky Moun- tains and all others on our part of the continent. That part of the range which traverses Alta California is called the Sierra Nevada (snoAvy mountains), a name in itself implying a great elevation, and is only applied in S23anish geography to those mountains whose summits penetrate the region of perpetual snow. It is a grand feature of California, and a dominating one, and must be Avell understood before the structure of the country- and the character of its different divisions can be comprehended. It divides California into two parts, and exercises a decided influence on the climate, soil, and productions of each, stretching along the coast, and at a general distance of one hundred and fifty miles from it. This great mountain wall receives the w-arm winds -charged with vapour which sweep across the Pacific Ocean, precipitates their accumulated moisture in fertilising rain und snows upon its western flank, and leaves the cold dr\- winds to pass to the east. Hence the differences of the two regions: mildness, fertility, and a superb vegetable king- dom on one side, comparative barrenness and cold on the other: the two sides of the Sierra Nevada exhibit two dis- tinct climates. The state of vegetation, in connexion with some thermometrical observations made during the recent exploring exjDedition to California, will establish and illus- trate this difference. In the beginning of December we crossed the Sierra at latitude 39 cleg. 17 min. 12 sec. at the head of Salmon Trout Eiver (about forty miles north of the Carson), forty miles north of New Helvetia, and made ob- servations at each base, and in the same latitude, to deter- mine the respective temperatures: the two bases being, respectively — the western base about ^ye thousand feet, the eastern about four thousand feet, above the level of the sea. The mean result of the observations were — on the eastern side, at sunrise, 9 deg. ; at noon, 44 deg. ; at gun- set, 30 deg.; the state of the vegetation and the appearance of the countiy being at the same time (second week of De- FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 225 cember) that of confimied winter: the rivers frozen over, snow on the ridges, annual plants dead, grass dry, and deciduous trees sti-ipped of their foliage. At the western base, the mean temperature, during a corresponding week, was, at sunrise, 29 deg., and at sunset, 52 deg. ; the state of the atmosphere and of the vegetation that of advancing spring: gi-ass fresh and green, from four to eight inches high, vernal plants in bloom, the air soft, and all the streams free from ice. Thus December on one side of the mountains was winter, on the otlier it was spring." Our camp in the little Elysium was close under the moun- tains, at one of the several rivulets : the plain about us so profusely covered with clover blossoms tliat in fact the ani- mals could lie do^vn and fill themselves on the spot, it grew in such luxuriant abundance. We were busily engaged in supper preparations: grinding coffee, baking buns, and dusting some venison steak with pepper and salt for the pan, when two Indians came into camp, each cany in g two glorious trout, weighing, I might say, five pounds each, and formed and speckled without any distinguishable difference from our Irish Siilnion trout. These we got in exchange for two tattered flannel shirts, and their equivalent furnished a supper that left nothing to be desired. We gave the In- dians to understand we would take all they could bring, and treated them with marked kindness and hospitality, to tiy and banish their reser\'e and establish a good feeling, which, as far as appearances indicated, they seemed to re- ' ciprocate. They were particularly delighted with the hot buns, but we made them use hard bread for " filling stuff," not having enough of the others to spare for a full meal. After supper some of the men took up their bows and commenced firing at a tree, without being able to hit it, whereupon they asked the Indians to shoot, which they appeared reluctant to do, but, on being pressed, consented : firing fully as wide of the mark as their white acquaintances. Suspecting, however, that they were shamming, I took a bun that was left, and sticking it in the bark of the tree, made signs that whoever hit it should have it to eat; on hearing which, one of them took up his bow, and without any studious aim, drove his arrow right into the dimple of the crust, showing clearly that they were disinclined to let us see their skill in the first instance, lest we should har- bour bad impressions about them. p 226 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, Next morning, when we were midway clonal the valley, we saw a lot of Indians crossing it from the river, all cany- ing fish, which they catch in ingenious traps made of willow, laid in the likely haunts, from which the trout, once in, cannot escape. They had upwards of two dozen very fine ones, from two to five pounds each; and although I had my doubts about their keeping until we could use them, I thought it right to keep my promise and. take them all. Not having buns, we made it up in old shirts, worn-out vests, and ventilating pantaloons, which one of those primi- tive fishemien endeavoured to use in an inverted shape, by sticking his arms through the legs ; and bringing his head where his bustle sho'uld be, until we pointed out the ap- proved mode of getting into them; an operation, by the way, not so very easy, from the number of apertures that arrested his toes in their descent. As yet we could not see any indentation or sign of a pass, but the Indians pointed to the river, motioning that by following it we would find the place. On leaving this resplendent valley, I looked back on it as a beautiful picture I was going to behold for the last time, and turned from it with a reluctant regret : my head and heart filled with all sorts of romantic and Petrarchial notions and ideas. The windings of the stream soon again involved us amidst hills and broken ground, through which we wended our way to where it took a decided eastern shoot. There, directly before us, gaped the narrow opening, or canon, through which we w^ere to pass, I may say, through the bowels of the outer mountain wall. It opened at its gorge into a crescent-shaped green Va^yn, on which stood a few of the most wondrous trees I ever beheld, piercing the clouds with their pointed tops, while it took three of us with joined hands to girth their stems, which measured good twenty feet in circumference : dimensions I would have regarded as incredible before I saw them, or, according to Yankee definition, " so almighty stout 'twould tire a rat to run round them." The river came foaming through it in brawl- ing cascades, leaving room enough, such as it was, to travel along it for a mile, but getting more compressed and gloomy as we advanced, the rent and fractured sides so apj)roxi- mating that it made one's flesh creep to look up and see huge crags suspended, you would imagine, by small fibrous twigs, hundreds of feet above your head, wanting only the FBOM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 2^7 vibration of an echo to break the frail hgatures, and grind you into eternity; while rent columns of rock, detached from the face of tlie precipice, inclined to such a degree that the perching of a bird on them would cause a shudder lest it might destroy their equilibrium. The path, too, if path it could be called, was unprecedentedly i-ugged: both mules and waggons staggering over confused piles of rocks, where a goat could scarcely walk with confidence. Further ahead, the roaring of a lai-ge catai-act boomed upon our eai's, and on penetrating to it, it looked as if all further progress was at an end, for tlie height from which it madly leaped appeared inaccessible to the foot of a climber, much less to the wheels of a waggon ; but ** auri sacra fames, quid non mortalia pectora cogis?" what looked impossible w^as soon made practicable; every one prizing and rolling rocks and stones from the top until the semblance of an inclme was fonned, on which we hauled up some of the heavier and more compact packages witli ropes, and afterwards at- taching them to the waggon-poles, with six mules and twenty men to each, got all but one safely to the top. This was the one with the damaged axle, which ou this occasion snapped, shivering one of tlie wheels into atoms: an acci- dent there was only one w^ay of dealing with, for though we could make and mount a pole or axle, a wheel was a pop beyond our ability ; so I decided on cutting short the body of the waggon, and mounting it on one pair of wheels, as a balance cart; a job which, taking some hours, decided us on camping on the spot, and workhig all night, for it did not suit being delayed in such a place, without any feed but twigs and brambles. Long before morning it was finished, and we resumed our march the moment we had light. About one mile beyond tlie cataract the river bent over so close to the side on which we were as to render a cross- ing imperative; but on examining and sounding it, the bottom was so uneven we did not dare venture, except by a bridge, or filling up the deep holes ; which latter expe- dient we decided on, and accomplished by rolHng fi:'om the sides of the ravine tons upon tons of rocks and stones, then stripping and going in to adjust them: an undertaking that, from the inisli of the torrent, was tnily dangerous. As soon as our engineer, Mr. D— - — n, pronounced it practicable, the same brave fellow who made tlie first descent into tlie Mormon canon, got into the saddle of the leading team. 228 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, and forced the reluctant mules into the foaming stream. For a little while they went on well, all eyes nerv^ously watching, all pulses quickly heating; but before they came to the centre the lead span shied it, and wheeled round to return. It was an alarming moment, but the driver's nerves were firm; had he wavered or relaxed in the least, all would have been lost, dashed down amongst the rocks with resistless violence ; but he held them with a cool and firm hold, until some men rushed in and caught them by the head, straightening them again in the draught; after which they pulled out without a stop, all the others follow- ing without any accident or interniption. After two miles more of jolting and jostling we got into an open space, with good pasture, where we stopped four hours, to permit the animals to make amends for their scant fare the night before. Inside the outer w^all of the mountain we had a delight- ful evening's journey, over rolling ground and through lovely glens, crowded with black-tailed deer; but as we had a stock of venison and fish, and were sure of meeting lots of deer all over the Sierra, w^e did not disturb them. To- wards evening we came to a lake close under the main ridges of the mountain, which explorers call Eeed Lake, from the broad margin of reeds that surround it; and a short distance beyond the lake, we came to the foot of the steep, where the trail curled up to the foraiidable pass, at the foot of which we halted for the night to make prepara- tions for the undertaking. Had we met such an ascent in the earlier part of the journey, I fancy we should have pronounced it insurmountable, and turned back in despair; but having encountered so many dangerous places, and overcome so many difficulties, we became inured to hazard and toil, only regarding the greatest obstacles as merely perplexing, but never impossible ; and as this was the only remaining one, we were resolved not to be stopped, even if recourse must be had to the agency of powder. By way of experiment, in the evening, just to see if the animals could clamber up, or work in such a perpendicular posture, I tried my horse with a hold of his lariat; but when I brought him to the base of the ascent, he had as little idea of facing it as he w^ould have of climbing a jail wall; for,^s one of the party said, " It was not only right up and down, but leant a little over." I tried to persuade him first, and FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 229 then to whip him ; hut neither was of any use : he did not comprehend me. Not so old Sacramento (the mule), who, like a practised hod-man, reared on end as soon as he was hrought to the base, and commenced the escalade without an instant's hesitation : clambering frequently in a position that made me fear he would have fallen backw^ards, until be got to a ledge or shelf where there w^as a narrow resting- place. It w^as quite clear from this essay that we could not calculate much on draught, when the animals would find such difficulty in getting up themselves ; so we were all reconciled to the alteraative of dismounting the waggons, and hauling them up piecemeal by ropes, only determining first to try one in the usual way, and, if it failed, then to resort to the other mode. We occupied ourselves till a kite hour in making our loads into portable packs, to get them up in tlie first instance, and completing all other matters, such as greasing the wheels, &c. 230 ACEOSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, CHAPTEH XX. Commence the Ascent — Horses Encouraged by the Mules to make the Trial A Displaced Rock causes the Death of one of the Horses — The Damages and Diffi- culties of the Task— Frightful Chasm — Pure Cold Water — How we got up the Waggons — Danger from the Rocks rolling down — Deplorable Accident Lose two Mules — Finish the Task — Make a Call on the Echoes of the Sierra Nevada Winter Scenery in the Dog-days — Paddy Blake's Remark — Deceived as to the Summit of the Range — Drop into a Fertile Valley — Ascents and Descents The Region of Perpetual Snow — Snow Stairs — Cold Nights — Adopt Indian Tactics Description of the Mountain Scenery — Measurement of some Trees — Grizly Bear and Family — Moonlight Travel through the Mountain Pines — No Fruit: no Birds — Fertile Basin — The Manzanita — Indian Foray — Pleasant Valley Cali- fomian Quail — Chilian Gold-Diggers — The First Sample of the Veritable Stuff, and no Mistake — Their Account of the Diggins — Dry Diggins — Average Returns — Weber Creek — End of the Journey for the Present — Time Employed Our Grateful Feelings at its Termination — Seal up the Property of our Departed Comrades — Acquaint their Friends of their Melancholy Fate — The Contemplated Railway from the States to the Pacific — Distance Table from Independence to San Francisco. At dayliglit we tied light packs on all the loose animals, and drove them to the ascent, at which the horses stopped, as if they could not believe us in earnest; but when they saw the mules climbing, they also made the attempt, while we kept shouting and cracking whips below, not daring to follow them exactly, from the quantity of gravel and stones they rolled down in their efforts to get up, which eventually caused the death of one of the horses : a fragment of dis- placed rock coming tumbling down, hit him in the fore- head, when he fell back and was killed; another horse and a mule also fell backwards, but escaped with some bad cuts and bruises. As soon as they reached the first ledge, we tightened all the packs and commenced the next, which, being tortuous and amongst timber, was less difficult; but still very steep, and in portions excessively craggy, being FK0:M new YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 231 much the longest of any. This ive smmounted without any accident: two others (one neai'ly as bad as the first) still remaming. The third we also got over, after divers slips and falls, which brought us to the border of tlie snowy confines, having here rocky shelves to ascend, with- out any covering whatever, and scarcely enough of in- equalities on theu' smface to afiord any foot-holds for the animals. We had inhnite ti'ouble with the horses before we could get them |^ tiy it, and many of them would have turned back if they dared^ after they had got up a bit, for they glanced tremblingly down over then* shoidders. Some- thues one of them slipping would fidl and come sliding down, knocking othei-s off then* legs, which it required gi'eat sprawling and floundering to regain; and others coming to their knees, remained Uke iixtures, feiU'ing, if tliey stirred, they should come rolling do\Mi the whole way. Near the top there was a veiy ugly tmn, round the face of a perpendicuhu' rock, with a dreadful chasm below, through which a roaring torrent was impetuously hunying. The loose animals passed it easily enough ; but, on measure- ment, I found there were not more than seven or eight mches to spare for the waggons, should we succeed in getting them up so far. Once past this, the lise was more gradual, and led through a skirting of enormous pine into a gap, over which, on each side, there were low peaks, capped witli snow, and also deep beds of it in amongst the timber, far below the level at which we then were. There was a bubbling well springing from the rock in the hollow of the gap : the purest and most colourless water I ever saw, which made the teeth ache as it entered the moutli. Tliis, with some tufts of grass growing in the chinks of the rock, and an enoimous half-burned pine, felled I suppose by light- ning, determined me on choosmg the place for our camp, being near, too, to the smnmit of the first ridge. We unpacked all the animals, leaving the horses behind, from tlieir being inditierent mountaineers, and descended again only with the mules for the remainder of the load- ing, as tliey did not require over two hands to drive them. The rest of the men remained to aid in the first waggon attempt, which we commenced with five pair of mules, and long ropes made fast to the fore-carriage on each side, which were carried up and hitched round trees above, with men to take in the slack, and hold what they got at each 232 ACROSS THE EOCKY MOU^'TAINS, stop, to prevent it pulling back the mules as they paused to breathe; from the point of the tongue, also, a rope was passed up, which twelve men hauled on, leaving next thing to nothing of draught. Under this modus operandi we made the trial, and got on with remarkable success ; the chief 'annoyance and danger being occasioned by the rolling down of rocks and stones, which did inflict some nasty shin cuts. The fourth ascent was with the waggons, which was by far the worst; for over and above^he bad turn there were no trees within reach to coil the ropes round, leaving everything to depend on bone and sinew. Immediately rafter the start one of the centre span had a fall, which, if it had occurred higher up, would have been ruinous, most l^robably, fatal ; but in the second effort they got up to the turning all safe. Here it was necessary to shorten the team, otherwise the leaders w^ould be round out of sight, :and beyond all control, just as the waggon would be in the most dangerous spot. We consequently took off three spans and got round in safety, with very little space to sf)are ; for I w^as curious enough to measure, and found the outside wheels traversed on an average within four inches of the giddy edge. We brought back the same team for the second waggon, and to my great grief lost a pair of them on the last ascent: the waggon at one of the stops over- powering the men and dragging the team back wdth awful violence. One of the mules had a hind leg broken, and the knee-joint of the other was so lacerated that the inner membrane w^as perfectly stripped, rendering both useless, and causing them such torture that death was a relief; so I had them both shot, which was the only bad accident we had, getting up the third waggon and cart with compara- tive handiness. All up, we took off our hats and made the echoes of the Sierra Nevada acquainted with the mode of cheering in good society, which, their want of opportunities considered, they imitated with very commendable accuracy. Few would have thought, as evening closed upon us in our eyrie, sitting shivering around a pine fire that would roast an elephant, with blankets and buffalo robes on our shoulders, encircled by the hoar lineaments of winter, and the lurid flames casting their murky tinge on the spotless drapery just above us, that w^e were' in the middle of the scorching dog-days of July; and wiiile our friends at home w^ere FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA. 2B3 languidly sucking sheny-cobler through their straws, we were boiling the kettle for a bubbling tumbler of hot brandy punch; "the great wonder being," as Paddy Blake once re- marked, *' that it was so much coulder up there, so much more konvaynient to the sun." Hfificroft JLll^W^ In our innocent simplicity we ifew regaroeabursei^s as on the summit of the Great Sierra Nevada: imagining we could step on the moiTOw into the glittering Valley of the Sacramento, and cdfiimence business at sight. Next day, however, as we got through tlie gap, we descended into a valley, but not the one we set our hearts on, which did not, liowever, lie near so low as that we ascended from; never- theless, we had frightful bumpilig and sliding before we got to the bottom. It was suiTOunded with snow-capped peaks, the soil being most fertile, watered by a good sized river, but where it found its exit I did not stop to inquire. We crossed it in a due west course, and wound up the opposite ridge in a serpentine maze, through a thickly- wooded forest of enormous pines peculiar to the region; and after attaining a great elevation we sidled round its southern shoulder, and descended into another sheltered valley far above the level of the one we lately left. Here we halted to noon, as we saw the trail crept up a ridge to westward of us that penetrated into the regions of perj^etual snow, and above which none others seemed to peep, so that we set it down as the great dividing range of the chain. We commenced our ascent at twelve o'clock, packing the saddle-horses as well as the other stock, and got on exceed- ingly well till we came to the snow: the nature of the side admitting of the trail taking such long winds that the in- clination, except in a few places, was not excessively shai'p. On coming to the snow, the ascent ^v>as so abi-upt and smooth I sent twelve men ahead, picking foot-holds for the animals, the others remaining to haul on the ropes and assist the mules; and as the wheels had no obstacles to uheck them or jolt over, and the mules, with admirable sagacity, took advantage of the holes to stick their feet in, we went up with great expedition, having all up in time „ Atlas, royal 4 to, half-bound 8 Young's (J.K) Mensuration, 12mo, cloth 4 „ Algebra, 12mo, cloth 3 G „ Answers to do. 12 mo 6 Steen's (Rev. T.) Mental Arithmetic, 2nd Edit. 12 mo, cloth... 2 6 Hodges' (Dr. J. F.) Agricultural Chemistry, 7th Ed. 12mo, cl. 2 6 [Adopted by the Commissioners of National Education in Ireland.] Knowles's (J. Sheridan) Elocutionist, 18th Edition, 12mo... 3 6 Bryce and King's Bookkeeping, 8 vo, half-bound 5 Jackson's „ 8vo, sheep 4 Q- O -o STANDARD SCHOOL-BOOKS, PUBLISHED BY SIMMS AND M'INTYRE. 8. d. 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